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Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont film^s en commenpant par la premidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants appara?tra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbole ^^ signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbole V signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent etre filmds d des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour etre reproduit en un seul cliche, il est film6 d partir de Tangle supdrieur gauche, de gauche A droits, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. ata elure. 3 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 I COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. tmwl * l*i>K-''^i*-*** "^ 'l/yi'j.Wr^ MRS. CLEVELA.ND. \ 4 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES BY RUDYARD HOME. yf'l DUBLIN : M. H. GILL & SON 1895. I ^ 1 ^_<-i ^ i CONTENTS. 'i Chai'Ter I. Chai'teu II. Chaptku Ill Chaitkr IV. ClIAITEU V. CHATTIOR VI. CUAl'XKU V[r. Chmter VIII CllAITKR IX. Chaitkr X ClIAI'TER XL Chapter xtr. Chaiter XI 11. ChAI'TEK XIV. ClIAlTKU XV.- Chapter XVI.- ChlAPTKR XVII. C HA ITER XVIII. CllAPTEIt XIX. Chapter XX. ChAI'I'ER XXI. Chapter XXTI. Chapter XX ill. Chapter XXIV.- Chapter XXV.- CirAPTKR XXVI. Chapter XXVII.- Chapter XXVIII. Chapter XXIX. Chai'teu XXX.- ClEAPTER XXXI.- Chapter XXXII.- Chapter XXXIII. Chapter XXXIV. Chapter XXXV.- Chapter XXXVI.- Chapter XXXVIf.- Papo. — GoiNc; to America ... ... 5 —The American Shore ... ... 12 —New York ... ... .. 18 — The American Scrai' Book ... 2a — rNPhKcioDENTHi) Growth oe Xew York 39 — Ltit'K AMt Rake lRisii-A..iEPacAN.s .. 46 -IlMSll (illM-SIN AmERUJA ... ... ')7 — Oek jo Philadelphia ... ... G."> — So.KHTRN- AMOXC THE ()UAKEI{.S ... 73 — r.AI.Tl.MOHE ... ... ... 83 — Country- Like ix America ... 92 — Wa.shiX(;to\ ... ... ... 103 —The Star.s and Stripes of America 111 — S.MOIvV PlTTSUlJRO ... ... 119 — Kki.kjiois Tolerance Under the Stars AND Stripes ! ... ... 127 -The Bushman's Story ... ... 189 —Jonathan at Home ... ... 149 - ClIK.'AUO ... ... ... ITjS —The World'.s Ii\vir ... ... 167 —The Paiu-iament ok Religions ... 177 —On the Way to Ni.voara ... 187 — .''I'NDAY at Niagara Falls ... 196 -Ho.srox ... ... ... 206 -The C!jty ok the iNIOR.Aioxs ... 216 -The Nation's Wondrous Park ... 226 — Takinc Leave ok the Rocky Mountains 237 —San Francisco at Last ... ... 24H —Down South ... ... ... 258 —Till-: Pkksex'I' axd Future ok the L'xiTKi) States ... ... 269 -Canada ... ... ... 283 —Montreal ... ... ... 293 —Canada versus the United Spates 302 — Ottawa, the Canadian Capital ... 313 — Positively the Last Waterkall ... 324 — WiNNIl'EU ... ... ... 335 —Towards the Canadian Rockies ... 347 —Vancouver City ... ... 3.')S m PRHFACB. If I There can be little apology offered for present- ing this work to the public. I was not forced into the undertaking, nor was it very apparent that the necessities of our times demanded it. 1 may be permitted to state, that on going to America, nothing was more alien from my pur- pose than to write upon that country. My object was to enjo}^ a good holiday and recuperate from the labour and anxiety of a calling, for which I am, perhaps, better suited than a writer on American institutions. As a matter of fact, I had hardly a note for reference, while these sketches were appearing seriall}^ Notwithstanding, I hold myself responsible for ever}^ statement here made. Shortly after my return to Ireland, when the usual excitement had subsided and I found my- self suffering from ennui and lassitude, I took pen in hand and wrote a descriptive Sketch of Portion of my tour to the Belfast Irish Nezos. " That's right good, let us have more of it," responded the accomplished editor. I afterwards continued to write, and congratulations pourde in after congratulations, from churchmen, states- men, citizens of every degree, until intoxicated with success, no fewer than thirty-seven numbers passed thn gh my hands, and I have engulphed myself, it may be beyond the possibility of re- covery. Let it be distinctly understood, that in my character sketches, I have no intention of taking revenge for the more than a century's comical ridicule the Americans have expended on my country-men. Jonathan's pointed drollery always amused me intensely^ and I have no doubt he will receive my remarks in the same jovial spirit. My references to Canada are of necessity im- perfect. No one could hope to give an exhaustive account of a country' of such vast extent in a few comparatively brief chapters. The Canadian sketches have been also received with gicat lavour, and I have reason to believe both will meet that general recognition, in their present form, which they elicited, as, week after w-eek, they occupied the columns of the J risk News. en, states- ntoxicated 1 numbers Dngulphed lit}'- of re- )cl, that in tention of century's expended i drollery no doubt me jovial ^ssity im- xhaustive t i n a few Canadian ith g I Celt Doth will ■ present :cr week, Audi's. :|l .^ .-,-% f I I COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. H CHAPTER I.— GOING TO AMERICA. 0\\^ I liavc Jons^cd to visit America, and sec for iri^'sclf the many wonderful things of which I had read and heard so much i The great Columbian Exhibition, in itself such an attraction, finally led me to decide on this long--contcmplatcd enterprise. Ac- cordingly, having made all due preparations, I found myself one beautiful summer morning comfortably located in an Allan Line steamer plying between Gla.sgo\v and New York, and steaming out to sea, hardly yet ntalising the fact. And now a new scene takes the place of the worr\- and strain of the ])revious da\-s. The weather was beautifully fine, with gusts of b-acing air now and then, which only made it the more enjoyable. Tears are soon dried up, and the chief mourners become the jolliest of the crowd. All are in the best of spirits, and tr)- to forget the friends from whom they are parting, and think onl\- of the friends to whom they are gomg. There is no place where people are thrown more together than on shipboard, and no place where there is so much sociality ; and here some very lastine: friendships spri'^g up. The comm m danger serves in a great measure to make all akin, but I have very I I O COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. generally noticed that people of the same position in life felt more comfortable in each other's society, and sought for those of their own calling or station. The student of human nature finds abundant re- sources at sea. Here he is pretty certain to find a specimen of every grade of society, and every clime, congregated around him, and has onl}- to sit down, pencil in hand, and paint to his heart's content. I have seen some such artists at work, but to me the sketchers seemed the moro sketch-worthy of the objects. I still retain the most distinct recollection of my new acquaintances. I shall ever remember my American friends just returning after an extensive tour of the old country, which means in Jonathan's language — Europe. They took notes endlessly, and on the least provocation instituted comparisons, America always profiting by the transaction. It must be owned that America is a great country, and the Americans are justly proud of it, but foreigners are amazed, not- withstanding, at their enthusiasm when boasting : The largest rivers in the world, the longest bridges in the world, the highest mountains in the world, the finest cities, and the finest business people in the world. I might multiply until the thing would become posi- tively sickening. These expressions I have heard over and over again from the Governor of the 3tate as well as the humblest citizen. And this vaunting, which seems to them a second nature, ofttimes makes the Americans very unpopular. I should say unde- servedly unpopular, for I must (n\n, although my experience of European countries is considerable, that nowhere have I met a people in private life more COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. position in ocicty, and ition. )undant re- n to find a -very clinic, sit down, content. I to mc the tliy of the 1 of my new y American tour of the language — on the least irica always owned that lericans are mazed, not- :isting : The dges in the d, the finest le world. I ecomc posi- have heard )f the 3tate is vaunting, Limes makes 1 say unde- Ithough my dcrable, that te life more 4 hospitable, more generous, and in their way cultured and refined. This is particularly true of the Southern States. And then there was the pugilistic gentleman, who had a very contentious appearance, and who was ever and anon picking quarrels. His great forte was politics and religion, the politics of England or America being equally acceptable. He was accom- ])mied by some friends, from whom I learned his history, and who were certainly not his admirers. Early in the teens he went to America, settled in a Western city, and rapidly prospered. A few years ago his wife died, and later his son and only daughter, and almost concurrently he suffered very serious money losses. All this preyed upon his mind and impaired his health. His physician ordered him home to his native England, in hopes of profiting by the climate, but with very little good results. His best friends tired of him, and openly vowed they could bear the strain no longer. Thoroughly disgusted with Eng- land and everything English, he set out once more, regretting the vessel that had brought him to the accursed shore had not gone down mid-ocean. I don't know how it happened, but this man's history became very generally known, and his conduct was a subject of very lively conversation always at meals. A little incident happened to him which seemed sooner than expected to lead him from public life. We had partaken of a substantial repast, and w; : „ just crowding on the saloon deck to enjoy the pleasant breeze and sunshine. The noisy gentleman was there, and ;.^ated himself in a party numbering five or six, with whom he hoped to have a very comfortable p 8 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES, disputation. ITc was not mistaken. The excitement soon reached its hciq;ht, tlicthesisbeini^the feasibiiitv of unitini^ the States and Canada. In the midst of furious gesticulation, and seeminL;iy on the eve of triumi)l"i, the rech'ninc^ chair containing the hero of the sketch collapsed, and simultaneously its occupant. There was very general laughter, and the apparent .sympathisers in their effort to suppress laughter were a spectacle highly ludicrous. The great man remained fully five minutes in his fallen state without atLem[)ting to speak, and refused all consolation. He then tried to recover from the shock and ruins, and very abruptly retiring to improve his toilet, was not seen or heard rf afterwards. I was next morning called in to decide a serious family quarrel between the occupants of state-room No. ^6, arising out of aforesaid. I'^rom evidence it appeared that the lady of the house was disturbed about midnight b\- the chuckling of her lord, which at first led her to believe he had taken suddenly ill, but on inquiry learned he was still suffering from the hilarity of the day preceding, which left so much of drec's behind to be cleared out. " What is the matter ? " .she asked, in breathless suspense. " I was thinking," he answered, and then burst outright. '' I am laughing at the gentleman who fell and broke his arguments." The novelty of the answer and situation affected the good lady's nerves, ruthlessly dismissing balm}^ sleep, and producing eventually an effect which to the un- initiated ver}^ much resembled sea-sickness. Having heard the evidence, and summing up with as much precision and gravity as possible, I dismisc ' the parties with a caution, especially as this was the first offence and the defendant pleaded guilty. Ul . COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. excitement ;asibility of ^t of furious of triumph, the sketch There was mpathiscrs a spectacle (I fully five ic^ to speak, 1 to recover ' retiring to afterwards, le a serious state-room evidence it i disturbed d, wliich at Mily ill, but from the o much of c matter? " . thinking," m laughing rguments." ffected the limy sleep, to the un- i. Having h as much iiisc ' the as the first Every community, it would seem, must have its great men, and some of our greatest men have been accidentall)' called into existence. It was so in the case of the individual who now held the field until the end of the journey. Had our renowned bilious friend been preserved, the former might probably have been shaded from that fierce light that beats upon the temples of great men, and blackens every spot. But this was not to be. The new celebrity vvas a Scotch- man, from somewhere on the borders of the two countries, and retaining many of the worst charac- teristics of both. Except this, nobody knew anything of him. He had no friends, and cared not to make friends. Where he was going, and for what purpose were equally mysteries. To all inquirers he was abrupt and .satirical. He took part when he could in most of the games, and was a punster after his fashion, but his puns were pointless and irrelevant. He had read extracts from Kingsley, and was prepared in consequence to meet any man, or set of men, on any given subject. His reign was very unpopular, though lasting only three days. 'Twas amusing to watch his movements on landing. Many were the congratulations on all sides, and many were the regrets at parting. But our chief had nothing to say for or against the proceedings. He paced the pier to and fro, arranging and then disarranging his toilet, too self-possessed to notice even passing events. The farewells of fellow-travellers, the compliments ex- changed respectively on the pleasure accorded by each other's society, the meeting of friends and their extravagant caresses, ladies in the excitement asking all sorts of irrelevant and unmeaning questions, and B itf;i 10 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. ! I ,'! gentlemen gallant enough in the midst of the hurry to wait and find out their meaning, the shouting of jarvies, detachments of threes and fours hastening away to mingle in the throng of the Great Republic, must have been in his eyes too despicable to com- mand attention. He was there to the last, which served to arouse curiosity all the more. I could have waited with all my heart to see the result, but force of circumstances hurried me also away, and I was obliged to forego this consolation, and leave him to his fate. Nor can I omit saying a word of m}- countryman, who was the most agreeable and social of companions. He was just returning, having consigned to their final resting place the remains of an aged parent, at whose special request he had come and was just in time for the melancholy parting. All ties being no'v broken, he could no longer think of revisiting the old home- stead in Ireland, and had decided once and for all to throw in his lot with the go-aheads of the New World. He felt it hard to arrive at this conclusion, but nothincf else remained, for all existing ties were on the other side of the Channel. In order to be his friend, how- ever, it was necessary to believe, unhesitatingly, that America was the greatest country in the world, and New York the greatest city. AH proofs to the contrary were sheerest waste of breath. He was, not- withstanding, the most genial of men, generous to a fault, and had succeeded wonderfully well in the land of his adoption, considering his chances. There is little room now to speak of the married lady who had been travelling for the previous five years, over all imaginable countries, and was not yet satisfied ; of the unmarried lady yet in the fcV* COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. II twenties who had been to most regions hitherto ex- plored, alone, unfiicndcd, and unknown, with no recommendation but the almighty dollar to touch the hardened heart of strangers ; of her who talked of nothing save the latest opera, latest song, or latest magazine. And what about the sea sickness which at stated intervals happened to mar the general har- mony ? To interviewers on both sides the Channel when asked my opinion about it, as well as the atten- dant sensations, my answer was in all cases the same — namely, that I preferred to speak of the matter in the next ; . pter. ■5 il i ^flB 1 1, 1 ■i li^ 1: 12 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. P I CHAPTER II.— THE AMERICAN SHORE. WHAT about sca-sickncss ? Well, to begin at the beginning, I think il is improperly called -sea-sickness. Why? Because I have myself seen as many people sick a stormy night on Lake Superior as I have seen comparatively on the salt Atlantic ; and this goes to show that 'tis not specially the result of salt water and sea air. It might be bette. termed ship-sickness. Whether it is to be called sea-sickness or ship-sickness, all the same I was the sufferer. I had spent the greater part of the day in the steerage, and, conversing pretty generally with the steeragers, had built myself up wonderfully well in all their wants and aspirations. \ day spent here is doubtless a liberal education. More than once I felt the interior at war with itself, and, despite all warnings, I remained lumbering on huge bales of oil cloth, snuffing in odours inexplicable, which are nowhere else on this side of a nightmare to be discovered, and stumbling now and then over monstrously-proportioned chains and tarred ropes. The day was spent, and I was just congratu- lating myself on the success of this novel achievement in the way of killing time, when, hark ! the winds blew, and the sea rose, and the good ship rolled and pitched in turn, and there was terrible commotion. Here a gentleman in great coat and weather cap declared, in chilled accents, that this was the stormiest night he remembered. A lady, who seemed fully COLUMBIAN SKETCHED. 13 alive to the situation, gave it as her opinion that in case of accident gentlemen had many advantages over the other sex. Several others joined in, but their remarks were more encouraging. In the midst of conflicts, internal and external, I retired, and lo ! a gentle perspiration bedewed my countenance, doubtless the result of extreme nausccU The dew was gathering faster, until it fell. The heart beat, and then it beat all its former records, and then 1 began to think it might beat past itself, and forget to return — and then I bethought myself how I should be next day tarred and canvassed, and summarily sent forth with the God-speed of captain and crew, to found on an island ; and then I tried to banish all such dreary thoughts, and think only of youthful pastimes, and green fields, and healthful mountains, and purling streams ; and then I tried to call to mind all the admonitions of friends — no easy matter — and eneuMes transformed into friends ; and then to fix my mind upon some one thing in particular. Nothing could avail. A terrible reckoning followed. Reckoning followed reckoning, until I had given myself up for lost, and nothing cared for things of earth, their plea- sure, or vheir pain. Aly first thought, on recovering a little, turned on the possibility that some of the internals indispensable to existence had been forcibly evicted. But this was not so, and there came a gleaui of consolation. Some friends called in the meantime. One sug- gested brandy, another whiskey, another had a medi- cine specially for the purpose, obtained through the kindness of a friend at parting under the greatest privacy, which i( course, served to enhance its value, \i '?; lir m '■J !■ I 14 COI.UMIilAN SKETCHES. 3oke at some Icni^th on the aclvaiit:i.iTCs to be reaped icrcby. M)- hatred of the fellow dates from that 3ur, and ever afterwards, wluii I bethouijjht myself and this was no doubt infallible. Another thounht it mi[,du be better to let the thing take its course, and spoke at some leni^th on the advaiit:i.iTes to be reaped the hour, _ _ of him, my fancy painted him, mallot-in-hand. threat- eninc: mv verv existence. In this way the niL;ht passed. Xext day was calmer, and J felt proportionately at ease. I was graduall\' feeling better, and becoming accustomed to seafaring, — was sorry the journe\' should ternn'natc so shortl}'. But dearest friends must part, and the most pleasing associations of life often end abruptly. We had been for seen whole days traversing a vast expanse of ocean, where nought was seen but sky and sea, separated from the world, its sorrows and its joys, and we a little commonwealth in ourselves. Land hove in sight, and there was universal joy. For me, at least, that joy was not unmixed with sorrow, for I felt, all tilings considered, that one of the most enjo}'ablc events of mj- life was past. One gentle- man could now distinctly see the great hotel at Loiiir Beach, and ever)-bod\- a little later could sec Sandy Hook, from whicli New Yorkers were to be apprisccf of our arrival. And then there was quarantine- station, at whicli all the stceragers were examined, passing in single file before the Republican officer of health, although they had been previously examined by the ship's doctor, and labelled to that effect. No others were questioned, and it was best for me, as I don't think I could have submitted myself to the ordeal. Another halt to satisfy the curiosity of a tribe of COLUMBIAN SKETCIIF.S. 15 imiiiii^ranl Ciovcrnmcnt (iui/./,crs. These worthies were cnfted with very warlike faces, and many of them, I am prett)- sure, were remnants of American campaif^ns. I noted particuhirl}' the conduct of a youthful member of the cor])s. Hardly was commu- nication established between the two vessels when he was on our deck boundinc^ and reboundini;", as if to show he was no worse for the feat, and still prepared for f^reater thinirs. He was followed bv an older and wiser man, who acted more rationally. The immense river boats, passing and repassing];', with their vast crowds of passengers on business and i)leasure, with- drew my attention from the others. We hatl now to under^^o a .series of interrogations, and make a clear confession of our p.ist life and future intentions. Our baggage in number and quality could not escape inquiry. The work, however, of searching into the secrets of old boxes, and eyeing carefully the contents of travellers' companion bags, which nobody except the owner ever had the audacity to attempt previously, was reserved for a select gcing on shore, who entered on their dutv, it must be said, heartil3^ Our inspectors were not particularly civil, and took for granted that everybody knew all about their ways. They were generally abrupt and snappish, never once deigning to look upon the face of the subject of so much inquiry. I felt relieved when my case was heard, and gladly affixed my signature, not feeling peculiarly gratified at this first taste of American hospitality. Now lay before us the most beautiful of harbours. There were the crowded steamers passing to and fro, i i6 COl.lJMRIAN SKETCH KS. 11 and hurrying as for a wacrer. They welcomed us heartily, and wc as heartily reciprocated their cor- diality. ' There lay to the docks a veritable forest of ships of all nations loading and unloadinJ,^ with deafening sounds of machinery at work, ships of all sizes ancf makes lin.d out of sight, seamen in quaint costume, coal-heavers, black and white being no longer distinguishable, policemen, revenue men, ex- press company men, hotel porters, hackmen, friends, and sight-seers, all on the tip-toe of expectation at our arrival. Right before us was Ikooklyn Bridge— the world's wonder— and nearer, the famous Statue of Liberty by l^artholdi, presented by France to the United States. The colossal figure resting on a huge pedestal bears in its palm a lantern, which, while enlightening the harbour by night, is supposed also to symbolise the lamp of liberty and intellect which enlightens the world. A French count, who spoke English tolerably well, waxed eloquent over its perfections. lie was a great patriot, and thought this an excellent eye-opener to the Americans. But Jonathan smiled, looked piteous, and forgave the fellow. The excitement was every moment growing, and by the time we reached the dock became intense. A gentleman shook me by the hand four different times, and each parting was as cordial as the previous one. A lady had lost her keys, and had no — no idea where to find them. I should say at a moderate calculation she received a sympathy from all sides fourfold thcii- value. Another had lost one out of her three dreadful blackthorns. She seemingly believed in odd numbers, and was in a sorry plight. Her case did not evoke so sb( A at ani cn| int shl sej h( is sh P' at m re tV c\ h; COLlJMniAN SKETCHES. 17 SO much s)nipathy, the avcr.iifc individual believing she had sufficient protection in the two that remained. A {gentleman was (juitc ' •''' d and disappointed at not seeing his friends '..0 ^ ironi^ awaiting his arrival, and was prepared to receive explanations and encouraj/ement from persons who were perfectly dis- interested. Another sees his wife, and wonders if she is yet able to recognise him. A youthful wife sees her husband, and is over-joyed ; he recognises her and is equally delighted. She does not think he is much changed, although two years elapsed since she ;.aw him. He might, she thought, be a little paler, but this was probably owing to excitement and anxiety. Everybody spoke to everybody, and the most reserved during the journey now threw aside restraint. All were satisfied with the journey, the steamer, the crew, and fellow-pa.ssengers. And everybody agreed that one more or one less would have made the whole an absolute failure. Such gra- cious partings ! .Such expressions of satisfaction ! Such joy at landing, and such sorrow at breaking up such pleasant associations ! Such glorious promi.ses of abiding remembrance ! Such hallowed friendships, the growth of less than half-a-dozen days ! All this completely captivated my fancy, and yet I could not help thinking there might be an error somewhere. But at all events we were in New York. i'l i'l N' ii 1 1 i i8 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. CHAPTER 111.- NEW YOKK. I WILL be pardoned if I \\ni;cY lonoer at New- York than elsewhere, for New York is America. There is the greatest possible rivalry between Chicago and New York, each claiming the precedence. But so far the \ictor\- is easily on the side of New York, and there are weighty reasons for supposing this .state of things shall continue. Chicago folk think ver\- differently, and swear its boom is over. New York, they say, is built upon an island, fenced in by the North and East Rivers, the Harlem Rive'- completing the island, and anything outside of that space is not New ^'ork. They don't forget, however, that Brooklyn lies on the one side and Jersey city on the other, the North River and Last River respectively intervening. That is so ; but these cities are not New- York, and if New York, what of it ? To their mind Jersey is productive only of mosquitoes and butter- milk, while Brookl}-n is a useless ajipanage, being the home of men once industrious, but now too wealthx- or too lazy to work. I felt my.self uncon.scioush- drawn into the contest, and was at the time heartily interested. At New York I was an ardent New Yorker ; at Chicago I own I wavered slightly, not much. Now that I am free to speak. New York is by far the finer cit\'. I felt fatigued and ill-a.ssorted after the sea journey, and considered a rest of a few da)'s imperative. The Fil dul COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 19 Fifth Avenue Hotel seemed about the best place to gain this comfort, and accordingly it was my hoine during the greater part of my stay in the city. But even here one is not safe against the onslaught of assassins. This has certainly been my experience, and I \vill tell how it happened. I had just been a day and somelliing in the hotel, and was perfectly satisfied with everything — servants, cooking, apart- ments, and the rest — and felt myself already suffi- ciently recruited, and hoped to be able to make an excursion through the city next da}-, when all of a sudden I was assailed. An Irish servant was kindly showing me the different apartments in the hotel, pointing out with much pride the suite of rooms occupied by the Prince of Wales during his stay in New York a few j'cars ago, as well as those latel}- in the occupation of Mr. Cleveland, President of the States, and just by the time we had been to every apartment of interest in the concern, a gentleman advanced with firm pace, placed his card in my hand, and asked me if I were such a person. On my answering in the affirmative, he at once requested permission to slowK' torture me to death for the space, it might be, of half-an-hour or three-quarters. There was no alternative. I w^as in a strange land, far from friends, and I thought it better to submit with a grace, hence the work at once went on. The would-be assassin was a representative of the Nciv York Herald — tall, gentlemanly, and highly intellectual, and about the last person in the world one would suspect of mal-intent. Here he was, and how he had got there, there is a history too long to be told. His questions turned first on the political II m u 20 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. i \ : situation in Ireland, the prospects of Home Rule, and the attitude of the opponents ; next on the political sincerity of Mr. Gladstone, and if I thought he really believed at heart Home lUile could serve the interests of Ireland. He then wished to know what were my previous impressions of America and the Americans, and in what, and how far, my actual experience corresponded. He then entered on the .American school question, as'uing my opinion upon it, as well as the financial question, and what he termed the new Catholic movement. I begged h^ would not press my views on such importa t matte ■■^, as I was only a stranger, and not sufficiently grounded on the political and social ways of the country. He returned to the charge again and again ; hut I was inexorable. Paus- ing a little for note-taking, and probably to afford me a respite — for I could see by him he thought me wearied of the interrogatories — he inquired my object in visiting America, the places I intended visiting, and if he might have the opportunity of meeting me at New York on my return. I had from the beginning made up my mind to be reconciled, and, therefore, answered his queries gener- ally, with as much good nature and as satisfactorily as I could. My friend seemed not in the least tired after an ordeal of fully three-quarters of an hour, and, rising, good humouredly took me by the hand, ex- pres.sed him.self grateful, and hoped at .some future time to be able to renew our acquaintance. I have met many American pressmen, but none of whom I preserve .so distinct a recollection, and none who seemed so wholly interested in the work of journalism as this representative of the A^ezu York Herald. So COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 21 much for early impressions. A word about journalism en passant. There is absolutely no attempt at style in the American newspapers. They are all facts, prettily told, with, if possible, an admixture of exciting romance here and there to give the whole a flavour. No difference if an error creeps into type. It is stereotyped with the rest ; such things must be of necessity. And since people must read they may as well read exciting events with some foundation in fact as exciting romances with absolutely no foundation. Europeans are first attracted by their extraordinary advertisements. Professional men advertise in a style th.-^t should render in our country their case for ever hopeless, while men in business call into requisition terms the most extraordinary and wood-cuts the most ludicrous that human mind could invent. That is well enough for us, says the American, but what if it attains the object desired ? They laugh best wha laugh last, and if Jonathan outstrips his neighbour in the race, and becomes a millionaire, he can afford in turn to have a hearty laugh. The great ambition of the young American is to become President of the States, a millionaire, or, the very least, a Senator. Latterly there is more time given to the fine arts, painting and sculpture, as well as music and literature, and many are taking advan- tage of the best schools in Europe to improve. The Fifth Avenue Hotel is about the finest hotel I have seen in America, and compares very favourably with the Grand Hotel, Paris, and the Hotel MetropokV, London, and is in many respects even more mod :rn. One is confronted on entering with spacious corr'dors^ which have a striking similarit\- to those found in. if, V\ 22 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. ! ii !i European palaces. On the one side is the telegraph office, on the other the telephone department, whereby you are enabled to have a pleasant conversation with a friend at Chicago, nine hundred miles distant, and then the post office, all inside the building. A .servant takes your baggage — not luggage, remember — in- troduces you to the clerk at the office, who requires you to sign your name and address ; you arc handed a key, to which is attachcii the number of your room, and, being forewarned of the daily expenses, you arc told to follow the servant, ^'ou do so, and, crossing the corridor, your help touches the electric bell, hardly noticeable to the ordinary passer-by, and presently the elevator boy descends from above. This elevator boy has a hard time of it, ascending and descending from early morning until far into the night. You are forth- with hoisted, you know not where ; but the servant knows his geography, instructs the driver to stop at the right place, and you are soon " iixed " in your room. Your first thought is to prepare for the dining-room, and woe to him who should be obliged to take the bill of fare seriously, and in order. I counted no fewer than sixty items for breakfast. The programme for luncheon is quite as liberal, while at dinner in addition you can have tomatoes and corn (Indian corn boiled on cob, wit'-out which the American dinner is incom- plete) and dessert, with pear, or peach preserves, and a fringing of cheese as an appetiser. How they go together 1 am unable to state ; the ver>' look of the thing overcame me. When all is finished you are pre- sented with a glass bowl of water and towel, by which you may there and then make your purifications. COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. The appointments arc everywhere of the best. The servants arc mostly Irish, no coloured men fmding employment, and this is very exceptional, for in all the hotels I have been to, the waiters were generally niggers. You can also have your boots blacked, and left at your door, the only instance of the kind I have met in America, at least in the States. America is a free coutitrv, where no man is to be a bootblack to his fell(3w. Such a one, however, may yet be found ; but, in order to make the discovery, you must stand in your boots and descend very low, .sometimes to the basement, pay the workman five cents, and be thankful. You have here every convenience. If you wish to rise at a certain hour oC the morning you apprise the night servant, who takes the number of your room and hour at which you arc anxious to get up, and punctually at that hour a bell rings loud and long right at your ear ; you are supposed to signal back by pressing the electric bell. You are anxious to have ice-water, without which no American thinks of retir- ing to rest in summer, and accordingly press the bell so many times. Soon a waiter appears, having a large jug, with huge ice-capping. An additional pressure would have brought you hot claret, and one .still more, brandy. You wish to mail a letter, but it is late at night, and as it is very private you do not much care to entrust it to a servant. What is to be done ? Well, there is a letter-box, even though you are on the fifth story, at the other side of the hall, in direct communi- cation with the one on first corridor, where it straight- way descends. If you wish to have a carriage from the stand there is communication from the hotel, and U5 : \ f, ill! 1^ 24 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. the hackman knows by signal whether you require a one-horse or two-horse. Again, by telephone you c;u> have quite a livel\- conversation with the butcher and green-grocer — tell them how you were pleased with their last transaction, inquire the state of their health, and bid a significant good-bye. Everything is in proper proportion. The entrance corridor is tastefully flagged with marble, all the others are overlaid with richest carpet. The halls arc spa- cious, with here and there sofas and couches in red velvet, the drawing-rooms palatially fitted with the newest and most approved styles in furniture and tapestry, with piano and music free to visitors, the washrooms redolent of sweetest perfume, and electric light everywhere. One is lost in amazement when he considers what the progress of the age has effected, and wonders more and more when he reflects how little has been done in the ages past to promote human comfort. Fifty years ago the iM'fth Avenue Hotel was a wooden shanty. COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 25 CHAPTER IV.— THE AMERICAN SCRAP-BOOK. THE Mikado's soliloquy — Oo hoo, the heathen Chinese arc again blaming their buttons^ and \vc feel like joining the Koreas. We are the centre of all eyes to-day, but we arc no pupils, I'd have them understand. The whole world is beginning to see that, though we are small, Japan stretches from one end of itself clear to the other. We are little, but, oh, my, my ! wc are old. At the call to arms the sho- gums, the sorghums, the bee gums, and the gum elastics turned somersaults, and started for Seoul ; they would have started to Sheol with the same alacrity had I only given the command. We have already taken enough junks to start a junk shop, and the yuens just suit we 'uns, and come right to our hands when they don't go down into the sea and pull the hole down after them. All we have to do is to touch the button, and the\' do the rest or the resting. When we get done with them they won't have a button to their suspenders, let alone to their hats. One touch of human nature makes the whole world kin, and one tc ' 'h upon Fekin will make all China very much relat, ^o Japan. We have already Japanned Korea in the most approved style, and it is warranted to wear. The fact is, I have got the Celestials in the suds, and am going to regulate the price of laundry, if it takes all winter on this clothes line. I'll fight it out. The soft soap business is for ever ended. I'd like to kn ~)vv what sort of a clothes-pin they have been c i ■ ) w 26 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. in the habit of taking me to be, anyway. It looks as if they had got it into their heads that \vc wore a sort of small-sized Monday's wash, and that it would take no time at all to do us, and charge no extra rates. By the sacred tub of their grandmothers they have been rubbing us over the washboard long enough, but they can't hang us out to dry. We propose to fill their shirts as full of holes as they have been accus- tomed to putting into those of their unsuspecting customers. Let me take a glance into this mirror. My name is Mr. Mikado, and I don't care who knows it. Every- body knows it now. It makes me feel way up to my size. A year ago and Eastern Powers hardly ever mentioned my name for breakfast ; but now, since I climbed upon my muscle and straddled my car, it makes a commo. )n which is perceptible around every base burning throne in all Europe. Hum ! my last suit is, I confess, a little too short, but I'm all strictly in it. I am -y Mikado (vum away back in the dim distance. It was a long jump, but I got there with both feet. Jim Corbett isn't in the ring. I am the Oriental Mike, and don't allow yourselves to forget it. I said to the Chinese, " Don't you lay your hands on Korea, for if you do you will also lay your bodies there," and I guess folks have found that we are not the effete Eastern nation they wanted to take us to be. My picture (more or less mine) is in every paper in the known world, and I have arranged for damao-e suits against four thousand of them for the defacing of public property, and propose to collect it if I have to take my fleet over on wheels. I am getting so way COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 27 up in G — that is ^orc — that there is no knowing where I am going to stop, if ever I stop. I begin to feel that I am the ruler of the seas, and if the foreign Powers interfere with any of my fun I will be a seizer of the rules, pitch in, and give them a free kindergarten lesson that will make them blow their fingers, and stick them in their pockets for all time to come. This is my pie, and Russia, England, France, & Co. will observe notices stuck up all round, •' Keep off the Grass." Five hundred million Chinese, with convenient handles to their heads, will be nothing m(jre than rj cold lunch for me ! The Flowery Kingdom can't face the Japonicas of the East, who are not only well armed, but well footed and better headed. I ride in front of my men in spirit. 1 propose soon to ride in front of them in full uniform. 1 have lately been reading the lives of Zingis Khan (before he went into the clothing business), Tamerlane, ^i.n Lane, Cyrus, Xerxes, Aleck the Great, Napoleon, and Coxey, trans- lated into the original Japanese. The world was small in their days. If anyone thinks I shall stop with the simple conquest of China he is clearly off offally. I shall sweep Siberia like a servant girl just hired, bounce through India like an India-rubber tornado ; having conquered Asia Minor, shall take Asia Minor with all her minors, gobble Turkey before Thanksgiving Day, clean out Russia with a rush broom, purify the germs of Germany, turn England upside down so as to commence life over on a new side, remove the gall from the Gauls, and then go over and capture the United States, and settle down on the summit of my earthly ambition as the president ;.f- 28 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. /■El of a Railroad Syndicate, until the other worlds heave in sight to grab. 1 think I onl>' want the earth and a few smaller planets. I am sure an opening for the situation of the •' Mikado of the Universe " is very fair. Tourist — You've got rather a nice town here for its size. Westerner— Town ! Say, young feller, if yer want ter git back home ter yer ma, don't yer be callin' these 'ere western metropolises towns. VVangoodle Lectures — The buffda)' ob Gawge Washington, de fodder of his kentry, happes on the 22nd of Febywerry. He was de fodder of his kentry, but he didn't hab any odder childrun, so I has been tole. Heah ! yeah I Dar was sumfin else erbout Gawge Washington what was wery singler, an' dat was dat he couldn't tole er lie. What yer standin up fur, Sam Johnsing ? Sam Johnsing — I wants ter know ef hit ham er fac' dat Gawge Washington swapped bosses, drunk whisky, went fishin', and flirted wid de gals. Yes, Sam-mewel, de historian tells us dat he did all dem dings. I knows what yer is gwinter say, and dat is dat you don't b'lieve he nebber tole a lie. For onct 1 agrees wid you. Ef Gawge ran eround wid de gals and went fishin', leabin' de swappin bosses out de queshun, I bleeves dat he mus' hab tole some few lies. He jess nachully couldn't hab helped hissef. Heah ! heah ! Somehow or odder, Washington was nebber er grate favorite wid the fair sect. He purposed ter half er al COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 29 dozen j^irls, and when finally one did take pity on him an' married him, she was er widdy lady named Custis, but dcy do say she was de cusscdcst purty woman in all dat part ob Ole Virginny. What ycr wanter know now, Sam Johnsing ? Sam Johnsing — 'What I wants Lcr know, Parson, if when Gawgc Washington was tryin' tcr capture de Widdy Custis, wasn't he er relic hunter ? Sot down, Sam Johnsing, an' if you insults de mem'ryob de fodder ob his kcntry wid one moah sich lamfibe"ous remark I'll slam you agin de wall so dat you will stick dar. Maint dar nuffin sacred in yore eyes, yo' bandy-legged moke, wid er mouf which looks like er cellar windy hangin' fuller icesickles. Speakin' ob de courtships ob Washington, he had awful hard luck. I knowcd ole Uncle Nace, one ob Washin'ton's body servants — Who's dat laffin obcr dar in de amen corner ? We haint gwinter hab no quietness nor peace in dis church ontil I ties some niggah's legs in er bow knot eround his neck an'frows him fru er windy. As I was saying, ole Uncle Nace tole me dat Marse Gawge kep all de fotografs ob all de gals who had fooled him, an' he would sit out in de moonlite an' look at dem fotografs an' beller an' beller so you could heah him half er mile crway. Den he got puffccly reckless, an' went an' married de Widdy Custis, an' libbed ter er good ole age. Does anybody want ter ask any queshuns ? You has cotched de speaker's eye. Miss Snowball. What is it, Matildy, dat you would like ter know, chile ? Spoke out ! iiililL ■ 11:1 30 COLUMBIAN SKF.TCIIES. n i Yes, honey, Washin'ton was cr good man. What's dat ? "Ef he was so good why didn't he die sooner, if dc good dies young ? " Shut yore mouf, fool niggah ! You is makin' cr draft in dis ccnd ob de hall. Sum- body lock dc dorc while Uncle Mose will please take up de kcrlccshun. " Do you swear ? " asked a ministerial-looking man of a sailor on the dock. " Partly often," was the reply. "Drink?" " — m yes ; I git dry onct in a while." "Gamble?" " When the voyage 's over I shake a few dices." " Chew tobacco ? " " Look here, shipmate, ain't you gittin' kind'r curious ? " " Answer me that ; do you chew tobacco ? " " Wa'al, yes, I do " " That's what I wanted to get at, and I meant to do it in a soothing, gentlemanly way, as it were. Gimme a chew, will you ? " If a lady approaches you smiling and gay. With a book in one hand and a pencil in t'other, Just pull out your monc)', there's no other way, It means a subscription for something or other. A number of girls in this Long Island town wha had become weary of the dulness of Lent sought diversion last night in a rather unusual fashion, and came to grief « What fun can we have ? " they asked one another, and finally one of them laid out for her companions a most amazing scheme. It was nothino- COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 31 less than yo to a certain pool looin in the village, which the young men of their acquaintance were in the habit of visiting, and peep in to sec what they were doing. Without waiting to consider all the possible results the girls set out for the pool room. They thought it safer to make a survey in the rear, so as to avoid the attention of passers-by, and for this purpose all went round into the yard. The foremost, for the better view, stepped upon an empty box and peeped in. " Oh, girls, I can sec everything," she whispered in great delight. Then they all took turns on the box. All went well, until one of the girls thrust her elbow through the window, making a fright- ful racket. The girls screamed and ran through the alley into the street. Hereupon the proprietor and several of the young men who were inside came out to learn what had happened. Seeing the girls run they ran in pursuit. Such a race had never been seen in Southampton before. The girls grabbed their skirts and flew along, keeping up a perfect chorus of screams. One was caught, who proved to be about the best-known society girl of the neighbourhood. She struggled hard to conceal her face, when night watchman Rogers came along and inquired what all the fuss was about. " I haven't an idea," the proprietor of the pool room said. " A lot of girls got behind my place and smashed a window. I don't know whether they wanted to steal anything or not." " Oh, no, sir," sobbed the girl ; " we were only peep- ing in for fun. We didn't mean any harm. Please let me go home. Ple-e-ease." I II 11^ '' 7 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. " Will you promise never to do it again ?" the watch- man asked, in p stern voice. " Oh, sir, I'll never do it so long as I h've." " Very well, then, run home." It didn't take her more than a quarter of a minute to get out of sight, and as she would probably be laid up with mortification if her name \ -"•'e published, it is withheld, although everybody in the village knows it. The Irishman who went up in the hotel lift without knowing what it was did not easily get over his great surprise. He tells the story in this way : — " I went to the hotel, and says I, ' Is Mr. Smith in ? ' " Says the man with the sojer cap, ' Will yer step in ? ' " So I steps into the office, and all of a suddint he pulls the rope, and the walls of the building began runnin' down to the cellar. '• ' Och, murther,' says I, * what'll become of Bridget and the childer which was left below there ? ' Says he : " • Be aisy, sor ; they'll be all right when ycz come down.' •"Come down, is it?' says I ; ' and it's no office, but a haythenish balloon that yez got me in.' " And wid that the walls stood stock still, and he opened the door, and there I was with the roof just over my head ; and, begorra, that's what saved me from gomg up to the hivins entoirely." b( ci I COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. Fifth year (after marriage), Wooden wedding. 00 Tenth year, Fifteenth year. Twentieth year, Twenty-fifth year, Thirtieth year. Fortieth year. Fiftieth year, Seventy-fifth year, Tin wedding. Crystal wedding, China wedding. Silver wedding. Pearl wedding. Ruby wedding. Golden wedding. Diamond wedding. Newspaper philanthropists' advertisements — Every- body Vvho buys a copy of the Morning Dodger is entitled to contribute to our great Christmas news- boys' chewing gum fund. Buy the Moruhig Shout. Great Christmas charity ! To furnish eyeglasses to near-sighted tramps. On what were all my fancies bent Throughout the doleful hours of Lent, Flooding my soul with sentiment — What but my Easter bonnet ? This is genuine ! " The acme moustache guard. Solid comfort \.hile eating. No use for napkins. Neat and simple, easily and quickly adjusted. Does not interfere with free use of mouth. Works perfectly. Made of gold and silver. Can be carried in vest pocket. Every genteel person should have one. Price two dollars." P'irst Dog — " Are you going to eat ? " Second Dog — " Gnaw." The saddest sight in all this vale of tears is a man with a full beard and moustache trying to eat a soft- boiled egg. m:;: ir iii n 34 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. A customer drifted into a wost side barber shop to get a shave. The barber, a coloured man, took up a very large and savage-looking razor. " Good heavens !' exclaimed the customer, " are you going to shave mc with that ? " " Yes, sah ; have to do it, sah. Hit am dc only razah I got, sah." " Well, then, give '^.e chloroform and go ahead." SONG OF THE COXEVS. We're marching on to Washington, Our ragged coats we jerk, We're howling through the country-, But we don't want work. We're wadin' through the farm.yards, Where the fattest chickens lurk. We're feasting on the country, But we don't want work. There is trouble in the Royal Family of England — something little short of open secession, in fact — and of all men it is Prince Henry of Battenberg who has kicked. Henry, or " Batty," as he has been heretofore called by his fond mother-in-law, has been living with his wife's folks and on the British taxpayers ever since his marriage with Princess Beatrice. The Queei gave her daughter a wedding portion of 500,000 dollnrs, the British Parliament added 1 50,000 dollars more, which, with an annual allowance from Oueen and countrv of 70,000 dollars, besides free rent, board, and washing, have enabled the couple to grow rich, and finally inde- pendent. Prince Batty, however, has not enjoyed a COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 35 sinecure. It was his duty to be in constant attend- ance upon Her Majesty at home and abroad. As the favourite son-in-law, he has to take the Lion and Unicorn nut for their daily constitutional in all sorts of weather. He has to water John l^rown's grave regularl)', and pretend that he liked it. He has had to read the births, deaths, and marriages in the Times every day to Her Majesty ; to explain with infinite pains the jokes in Piuich and the poetry in Browning, and, worst of all, to listen to and admire Her Majesty's own poetry, wearing a pleasant expression of counten- ance, as the photographers say, all the while. At last he has revolted, and rented a private residence. We wish him every kind of luck, while condoling with his bereaved relative. His place is not likely to be filled by his brother-in-law, Lord Lome, who is ^persona noil grata with all the Royal Family. Battenbcrg, however, is a shrewd young man, and differs from his new kinsfolk in not being half such a fool as he looks. He knows he will be missed in the Palace when the lion roareth, and the Whangdoodle mourneth, and when a royal but ungainly form pokes feebly with a sceptre under the bed in search of the burglar who is not there. .■ 1 I The report referred to in this communication is without foundation. Mr. Keppler went to Washington last week on business ; but his business had no con- nection with the Higgins affair in any way, shape, or manner. Let us say, furthermore, that no man con- nected with this paper has ever spoken of political matters to the President What we have to say we say in the paper, and if Mr. Cleveland cares to know 36 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. what we think he must buy his Puck lil- pride themselves so much, havine: been previously admonished over and over again how you should find it the finest in the world, and, alas ! infc^rm them that you have found much less to admire there than you expected, you are at once set upon and questioned rigidl)- upon the minutest detail. Should your answer fail in the smallest minutiae, Jonathan scores a victory. The electric cars have not yet found their way to New York, although they are in full swing hard by in lirooklyn. It is the cablecar system in the former, with cars hauled by horses in the less frequented sec- tions. The cars are sometimes " awful " crowded. I have seen them crowded so that you would not find elbow^ room enough to extract your five cents where- with to pay your fare. One car succeeds the other in Broadway, so that there is hardly its own length between each, and this goes on from early morning until far into the night. There are, besides, elevated railways supported on iron pillars, and carrying each day a fabulous number of passengers. These lines run through the streets along the second or third storeys of the houses, making things pretty unplea.sant, I should think, for the occupants. There is no more protection than our ground railways have, and the wonder is that there are not accidents daily. The turns are sometimes very quick. In one instance the turn is so abrupt that I prepared myself sure for a cap- i I I COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 45 size. There is no difference in the classes of the cars <;f the elevated railway ; this is also the case with regard to the cable ami horse cars, and in a pjrcat measure with regard to the railway cars generally. But, as shall be seen, a more comfortable corner (.an always be found for the money d individual. I did not lind the car officers anywhere a whit too civil. If you knew what to do, and did it, all went (jn well ; if you did not know what to tlo, and asked questions, then the trouble arose. ATost of them wore a scowl of con- tempt, and seemed to say, " Look here, we arc in a free country ; perhaps you did not understand that i\meric.. ''-' a free country ; everybody is equal here, the only difference being that I am your superior." II iM t 46 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. CHAPTER VI. -RICH AND RARE IRISH- AMERICANS. THE Irish are wonderfully soon formed to the manners and ways of America. I have met some who had been but a few months in the country, and )-et inicjht easily be mistaken for natives. 'Tis true, at times in imitating the Americans, some over- shoot the mark and consequently come in for trouble : but surelx' those are to be equally reprobated who adhere to time-worn native customs, customs behind the a£,^e in which we live, and especially un.suited to a free and progressive countr)-. The Chinese never be- come assimilated to American manners. They always retain their own native dress, and have little inter- course with any but their countrymen and thus are unable to speak the language of the countr\-. Some- times they become master of a few English sentences, but are barely able to make themselves understood. I believe I have but seen one Chinaman in native dre.ss during m\' .sojournings in America, and have not seen even one trying to be obliging or social. Of foreigners, the Chinese are by far the most unpopular. The Engli.sh adhere very much to English way.s. Jchn thinks the British Empire the greatest in the world, and imagines at its nod every stubborn neck should bow. But Jonathan does not much care to bow before anybody, much less before his old enemy, John, and hence there is always a little rasping. Just f- COLUMBIAN SKETCIirS. 47 I as at home, Sandy is very clever and shrewd in busi- ness, not much caring about the old quarrels between Jonathan and John, so long as he can succeed himself. He falls pretty quickly into American ways, but strange, he finds great difficult^• in getting over the broad Scotch. Not so with the Irish, they soon get over the drawl, and you may probabl)- hear them make use of some smart Yankee expression before they have formed one week's acquaintance with the country, and are soon more American than the Americans themselves. All at once they are heartily interested in the success and prosperity of the country, and wish all foreigners and newcomers to be im- pressed with a sense of its greatness. If you are a stranger, Pat considers it his dut}- to entertain you hospitably, for he is accountable for the good name of the countr}-. Meanwhile, he devotes much time to convince you that you are now in a free country, and the best on the face of the eardi. He is vcr\' much pleased if you acquiesce in his \ lews ; if not, he is pained and disappointed. I had intended here to speak only of the Iri.-,h. At some future time I shall have occasion to make reference to fortune-seekers from other lua-opcan countries, and hope to give my views in strict accord- dance with experience. Apropos of irishmen, here is one I stumbled against in New York, at one and the same time poet, patriot, and scapegrace. I caught him in Duane Street, not drunk, but feigning drunken- ness. Nor can I recall the circumstances that led to our introduction, but if I rightly remember, there was little time wasted in ceremony. Commodore Reilly, or as he prefers to call himself the Cavan Bard, is one i •s- m 48 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. of those Irishmen who seek and attain notoriety at the expense of their countrymen. Not content with posinL( as the typical wit and only genuine Pat, when- ever the opportunity' arose, he has taken care to give to the world his poems with a long historical intro- duction, descriptive of his career, in which, it must be said, the Commodore is the hero throughout. I pro- cured a cop\-, for which I have to acknowledge, the author, in his generosity, would not accept any recom- pense. The sa\-:ng that a man is sure to write him- self, whatever else, vvas exemplified to the full in this production. Well, I had a strange curiosity to learn its contents, and embraced the first opportunity of doing so. h'orming the frontispiece is a picture of the Commodore, better looking than the original, and a good deal more staid, while Washington is relegated to the last place. This can hardly be called patriot- ism. It appears to me the patriot should have allotted the first cover to the Great Father of the F^public, instead of the last. But Washington must consider himself pretty liberally dealt with when he find.s a place anywhere in or around the volume. As to the introduction, Cornelius Reilly, or Commodore Rcilly, or the Cavan Bard if you prefer, is described as a youthful rebel who gets mixed up in a shooting affair, and in consequence disappears mysteriously, only to enlist in a British regiment for the more security. Most of the members consisted of Orangemen from Belfast, which did not make things quite congenial to a patriot so ardent. In due order the regiment was transferred from Dublin to Cork, where several recruits of his own sympat'Mcs joined them, and thus so many clouds were brushed away, ihc excitement was but COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 49 commencing. Cork, it would appear, was reserved for the Commodore's best feats. Here he forced the bandmaster to continue the music to the Catholic ("hurch, the first time, it is stated, such a thing could be accomplished in the English army. And here he broke from his guard, and throwing off his belt and knapsack, jumped into the river to save a child that had accielentally dropped from its nurse's arms, and was being carried away by the stream. I'^or his kindly inter\ention the Hritish Government rewarded him by a sentence of two months' imprisonment for deserting guard. This sentence, however, was commuted. But this was not all. Shortly afterwards, during a review on the ATall, there was a blunder owing to some wrong word of command given by the adjutant. The latter, adding insult to injurx', made use of the expression, " You Irish ho<^s." This was more than the young enthusiast could bear, and lumping from the rank, clubbed his musket, and knocked the adjutant off his horse. Then the flight and hot i)ursuit. He escaped to Liverpool on board a pa.:ket, where he had, as fellow passengers, no less than two serjeants and a corporal of his own regiment, specially despatched for his arrest. But he managed to elude their grasp, and lay concealed in a sub-cellar, among bones and barrels in a lodging-house in town, until things quieted. He then set sail on board " The Star of the West " in company of an Irish emigrant named Mannigan, and his sister Ann, passing as a second sister Nellie, and having of course assumed very substantial disguises, evaded detection, and landed duly at New York. Little was heard of him afterwards, until the Orange riot on 8th .Vvenue, when he displayed his wonted H 1'"' ^'i m 50 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. I I intrepidity in peltincif the Oranq'cmen from a roof of one of the houses hard by with cobble stones of con- venient mairnitiide. But even in America, couracre and philanthropy, it would seem, receive not due recognition, for the Commodore lost an important position by trying to help a young friend who had got into trouble. On losing his situation he appears to have found the Muses. However, it is uncertain, if the world is much the gainer from the fact. I select the following, which is, I believe, of the whole, the only piece worth}- of the name of poctr)- : — THE GREEN MOSSY BANKS OF THE LEE. One morning for sweet recreation, when the wind's soft breezes did blow, 'Twas down by a clear crystal river, where sweet purling waters did flow, 'Twas there I beheld a fair damsel, some goddess it appeared to be As she rose from the rippling water on the banks of the greet, mossy Lee. I up and I bid her good morning, good morning, most amiable maid, I am your captive slave for the future, "come, sir, do not banter,*' she said ; " I am but a plain country girl, and that, sir, you plainly may see, And yonder my father is coming, from the banks of the green mossy Lee." I waited till up came her father, and summoned my spirit once more, "Kindsir, if this be your daughter, this beautiful girl I adore- Ten thousand a year is my fortune, a lady your daughter may She can ride in her chariot and horses, o'er the green mossy banks of the Lee." COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 51 He welcomed me home to his cottage, and soon after in wedlock we joined, And there we erected a mansion, for pleasure and pastime com- bined ; And now the American stranger great pleasure and pastime will see, With adorable gentle Elixa, on the green mossy banks of the Lee. This is not too bad, but 'tis, without doubt, the best in the collection. I refrain from quotinc^ the Izard's valedictory poem, in which he complains old age is upon him, and that he alas must pass to the great majority. It is to be hoped Irishmen at home and abroad will survive this misfortune. Such as the illustrious Commodore make the Irish in America ridiculous. It is as absurd to imagine ever}- Irishman is a wit or poet, as to belicxe every Irishman could be a Swift, or a Moore ; or cver\- hLnglishman a Dickens, or a Shakespeare. I don't kiiow how many of my countr}-- men I discovered trying to play the traditional ro/e which the Americans so unconditionally assign them, that of wit and clown. 'Twas ea>^y enough for me to sec how unsuited they were to the part, and how badly paying such an effort would be if attempted at home. My experience is, the Americans are to be dealt with as the people of other nations, and that the best motto is, " Know \-our place and keep it." On the other hand, I have met many of m)' country- men who had made great headway in the land of their adoption, and could take their place as resi)ccted citizens of the (jreat Republic. I have heard it as.scrted that the Irish devote their spare hours solely I 52 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. to politics, and that the America of to-day is absolu- tely in their hands. It is true, they are much devoted to politics, and their vote goes pretty solidly in the same direction, but it is equally true that their vote is cast for him who, in their estimation, has the best interests of the country at heart, independent of creed or class. In this they arc to be hi^^-hly commended, and show themselves worthy successors of their co- religionists of AIar)-land, who extended religious freedom to all, at a time when that privilege was, any^vhere, exceptional. At the same time, it must be considered strange that during a centur\''s existence of the Republic, not one Catholic has lilled the Pre- sidency, in a line of twent}'-four Presidents, nor, I believe, the Vice-Presidency ; while a Catholic in the Cabinet is a rare bird. If the Irish then, who are mostly Catholics, wield such ])ower in p.olitics, and have, notwithstanding, submitted tamely to this condition of things, it must be freely admitted, they have maintained a very commendable freedom from religious rancour. 1 much jM-cfcr not to touch the religious tjucstion, except under pressure, but at the same time, I am free to state that America owes ils greatness largely to those who professed the Catholic faith, and has, at this hour, no more ardent supporters and admirers than Catholics. Was not Columbus a Catholic? Was not Lord ]-5altimore, the pioneer of religious freedom, a Catholic? Did n(jt the Catholics, Carrcd and Lynch, sign the Declaration of Independ- ence, and did not the Catholics, Lafayette, Moylan, Sullivan, Dillon, l^ju'ry, and a host of others willingly pledge their lives in defence of that Declaration ? And did not the gallant Kearney, Corcoran, Meagher, )kL Ill' COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 53 . Shields, and Sheridan, all Catholics, tight bravely for the Union ? No ; there is not a single tenet in the Catholic faith that could warrant Catholics in beinfi disloyal to the Constitution ; on the contrary, they are being constantly warned bj the ablest American prelates, through the agency of press and pulpit, to remain faithful to the laws and institutions of the country, while the same sentiments come re-echoed from the head of the Catholic Church. Yes; Catliolics have repeatedly proved their loyalty, and let us hear when have they betra}ed the trust reposed in them, whether in the battlc-licld, the civic chair, or councils of the nation ? But I have departcrl somewhat from m)- original purpose. My intention was to speak of the Irish wholly apart from religion. Circumstances however have arisen lately, whereby I am forced to touch some- what upon the religious question. The position of the Irish of to-day is vcr\- much different from that of the Irish of fifty years ago. To-day, the Irish im- migrant is educated more or less, and his ambition is not, as his predecessor, to try his strength and dura- bility in digging canals and making railways, so much as to secure some convxMiicnt and easy position in the towns or cities, and shortly become member of half a dozen social clubs. His natural temperament drags him into politics, not so much for the sake of politics, but becau.se he finds therein scope for intellect, and all the associations that arc so congenial to his enthusiastic nature. The politician, sooner or later, is bound to display his best or worst qualities, and extremes appear to have a peculiar fascination for the ardent. In general, the Irish adopt American citizen- ii 1 Hh^' 1 ^^■i^j 1 J^^liEJ i 1 ' ' ^1 1 H' i' 1 m \ 1 ■ 1 54 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. silip, and are undoubtclly a ^-rcat power in politics, and yet, I can only unearth one senator of Irish birth, OLit of a possible number of eitjht\'-eight. Air. P. Walsh, of Georgia, enjoys this unique distinction. In the House, members of Irish birth are comparatively few. William Bourke Cockran, Timothy J. Campbell of New York City, Ryan of New York State, M'Gann of Illinois, Weadock of Michij^an, Clancy and Graham of Brooklyn, and M'Aleer of Penn.sylvania, were born in Ireland. This to be sure is a small proportion, considering;" the complement numbers three hundred and fifty-si. \. I could make no effiirt to classify the many of Irish descent who have held, and are still holding, the most eminent positions in Congress, in law, in literature, and business. The American of Irish blood possesses all the keen percc]:)tion and in- tellectual endowments of the native Irish, but is possessed of more avarice, and appears greatly alive to the fact that no matter how many and how distin- guished his other qualities may be, a goodly alloy of dollars is necessary so as to become perfect. America is pre-cminentl)' the lanrl of the dollar, and that euphonious name falls ui)on \-our car at every turn. Let it not be imagined uncle Sam is a niggard. He is liberal after a fashion ; he delights to make money, and he delights to spend it, provided he makes vastl>- more than he expends. The Irish born even catch up this spirit, and long to be millionaires. A few realize their ambition. Why not, if they are .so deserv- ing? In America, it is boasted, the fittest always survives. I am here reminded of the recent deaths of two esteemed American citizens of Irish birth— Senator COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. OJ Tpn Fair, of Nevada, and Mr. Eli,l;"ciic Kc11\-, of New York, millionaires. lk)th came to the country with but a few dollars in their pocket, and both had to encounter all the difficulties that so v)ften fall to the lot of the penniless, even beneath the star-spangled banner. Speaking of Senator I'air, I can hard!)- omit the names of Flood, M'Ka\-, and O'Brien, Irishmen like himself, who came to the United .States poor and friendless, and were so closely associated with liim in his successes and disai)pointments. All four engaged in silver and gold-mining, forming a company-, and from poverty, one day rose to find themselves millionaires. Ihey meanwhile kept their heads, and for long engaged in their ordinary duties as miners, until, having secured immense fortunes, sold out and retired. Here is con- firmation, strong, that all Irishmen ilu not become in- toxicated with success ; nor is it bv any means the fact that rdl Irishmen, who grow from poverty to wealth, are unable to draw the line between indepen- dence and impudence. The career of the late lamented Mr. Kelly is another i)roof that the Celtic tempera- ment can bear with prosperity. No stranger himself to hard times, he yet could pity the distressed, and when good fortune raised him to that happy condition of opulence, that is certain to command the respect of the American, he turned not his face from his country- men, but contributed largely to e\ery charitable work and object that tended in any way to elevate his race. The Irish here and in America deeply mourn his loss. Pa.ssing over the many departments in which those of Irish birth or blood have distinguished themselves, I may be here permitted to refer briefly to their distinctions in literature. A good average of the ii ill L 1^,, ilfli 56 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. .f!i American prelates is of Irish birth, and most of them of Irish descent. Of these a lari;e proportion is h'tcrary in some way or other. The names of the late J, B. O'Reilly and Father Ryan are quite familiar to us, while America can still reckon upon James Jeffrey Roche, Margaret F. Sullivan, Richard H. Clarke,. Mary Elizabeth Blake, Maurice F. Egan, Eleanor C. Donnelly, Patrick Donohoe, and Mary J. Onahan. I was about to omit Katherine E. Conwiiy, which would be something of a blunder. Miss Conway is not the new woman, but the womanly woman. If there were *norc Miss Conways and more Mary Andersons, a morehealthful feminine atmosphere could be generated. These are the names which readily occur to me ; but I do not pretend by any means to give an exhaustive tjuotation of the eminent litterateurs whom Ireland justly claims, whether by reason of birth or blood. No, they are counted by hundreds. J^ut the Americans claim to recognise no distinction in race cr religion fcjr all are to become blended in friendship and harmon}^ I am. glad it is so ; and in all earnestness, say to my countrvmen and kinsfolk, the sooner the>- become merged into the Great Republic, and are heartily interested in its welfare, the better. How I could wish every Irishman would learn, and apply in his individual case, the noble words of Colonel Corcoran ! '• I am here not because I am an Irishman,, but because I am an American citizen, faithful to the oath I voluntarily took upon myself when I sought the protection of the flag of the United States— its enemies shall be my enemies." ij» » „ COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 57 i . CHAPTER VII.— IRISH GIRLS IN AMERICA. I PART reluctantly with New York, but circum- stances force me on. When might I expect to arrive at San L^-ancisco this way ? In passing thence let me say a word of the Immigrant Girls' Home, in which the Irish all over the world are especially in- terested. The Home is at 7 State Street, but a visit to Ellis Island, where the steerage passengers are disembarked for examination, is well worth the time. It is better to begin, at the source ; and I must say that my visit proved highly interesting, as well as instructive. At present the first and second class passengers are exempted from the ordeal, but there is an effort lately, to include second-class, which, however, is not seemingly succeeding. Ellis Island now takes the place of Castle Garden, in this department. It contains five acres, and is covered for the most part with government buildings, which are wooden structures. The Americans call them buildings ; we woula call them sheds. I happened on a time when there were vessels at the pier from several European ports, so that I had ample opportunity of witnessing the arrangements and pronouncing on their merits or demerits. In reference to the immigrants, however, I was mainly interested in the Irish, and am pleased to say that in physique, and even dress, they looked the finest of the crowd. Many of them seemed completely bewildered, and dazed, and in cases 'twas almost im- possible to obtain coherent answers. Here may be E 1-1. I I I I III 58 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. noted the peculiarity of dress, the difference of manner, the Babel of tongues of the different 'countries of Europe. The immiL,aant inspectors are supposed to know the various languages, at least to satisfy them- selves of the eligibility of each for admission to the States, and if they are not perfectly understood, 'tis not for want of an effort. So articulate were they that they might be distinctly heard at the utmost end of the building, which is 460 feet by 180. This, too, like everything American, is gigantic, As soon as the vessel strikes the pier, they are driven like cattle into pens in this building, and well secured, so that there is no possibility of escaping until the officers are in readiness. The bolts are then removed, and they pass in order to be examined. Failing to answer the queries satisfactorily, there is another pen to which they are relegated, pending further investigation. I have seen several such cases, and their look of helpless agony made me heart-sick. Sightseers would do well to visit the Island and see the machinery at work. They should find, no doubt, much to engage their attention ; but from any other point of view the whole process is in the last degree disgusting. I suppose it is one of those necessary abuses that must go on. I had just seen as much of the proceedings as I cared, when the rev. director, of the Immigrant Girls' Home, to whom I had been already introduced, questioned me on my impressions. The Americans, I found, prided themselves on their uprightness, and gave their judgment on men and things frankly and honestly as they found them. In the present instance I was peculiarly American, and withal my frankness was not so much relished as I expected. I was then t. )» * i COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 59 presented to an Hon. Joseph Seniier, who is, I believe, an Austrian by birth, and is much interested in our Irish. I surmise it was intended that my impressions might be corrected, having expressed my sentiments so freely with regard to the vociferating genii before mentioned, and, indeed, I must as freely own that the contrast was pleasingly striking. I had also occasion to form the acquaintance of an lion. K. MacSwceney, who is a Massachusetts man by birth, but of Irish descent, and a splendid specimen of an Irish- American. Both these gentlemen occupy very eminent positions as officers of immigration, and arc most indulgent to our Irish emigrants. In the second instance, as in the first, I was most favourably impressed. The Rev. M. O'Callaghan, director of the " Girls' Home," is one of the best known ecclesiastics in America. He receives notice again and again in most of the papers and periodicals of the country, and the good work he is effecting is referred to in no mistak- able terms. I read with much interest a cleverly written article on the subject in Doiiahoc's Magazijie some time ago, in which it is stated, that the Home each year on an average cares for 4,000 girls who have no friends until situations arc provided for them. This institution is intended principally for Irish girls and Catholics, but no one is excluilcd on account of religion or race. It is supported entirely by voluntary contribution, receiving neither State or municipal aid, but all classes readily subscribe. The director, who is Irish, born in County Cavan, is small of stature with fair complexion, and exceedingly unpretentious and simple in manner. He is, however, a rare adept in his business, and possessed of detective cjualities of no 6o COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. i mean order. The stories told me of rescuing unwary- victims from the jaws of demoniacal landsharks would fill a goodly sized volume. Many of them bordered on th'" ' lantic, and I could only wonder how human malice even was able to descend to such low, hellish devices to entrap the innocent. I learned, too, that he had been pastor of an important charge in the diocese of his adoption, before undertaking this work, and has never since received any pecuniary recom- pense for his labours. All day he is at the landing jealously guarding the interests of the immigrant girls. It is such as he who make religion respected. In the good work he is ably assisted by a Mr. M'Cool, formerly of Dcrry, who acts as secretary to the Mission. What must have been the havoc bcf re such precautions were taken ? I notice there is an effort to form an asso- ciation in Ireland to work in harmony with the one at New York. How could thisbe possible? Sofar it is only theory. I should like to hear the theory thought out. The Irish girls always remain Irish in symjathy, and hanker after the simplest fare and enjoyments of home, notwithstanding the sumptuous tables and gorgeous shows of America. I had occasion to call on quite a number, and their expressions invariably were, " Ireland is my first thought in the morning, and my last at night." In talking of home and friends they paled and flushed in turn, and were clearly labouring under great emotion. I bore innumerable messages, but in no case was my information suffi- ciently satisfactory. I was literally overpowered with inquiries. The first question was very general, such as "What news from Ireland?" but the matter did not drop there. I was supposed to know the mo. /oU COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 6i •> private affairs of families and tlie gossip of every district, and questioned accordingly. In all cases there was the firmest resolution of returning home, and had in store for themselves a world of enjoyment there. The best determinations, however, for one reason or another are found to collapse, and thus their fondest hopes are never realised. In manner, in dre.s.s, and speech, I found them more American than the Americans themselves — quite as business-like, and guessing and calculating in the same ratio. In speak- ing of things American they were nasal, and given to cant phrases like the native Americans of their class ; but when they came to speak of home and Ireland, they were as Irish as ever. I remember bearing a message to an Irish girl whom I had known for years before emigrating. She seemed just as Irish as when last I saw her, although several \-ears in the country. During our interview the landlad)- unexpectedly appeared with a host of mandates. The change of a sudden was ex- traordmary. At once she was all tension and sinews chiming in now and then, according to t^^^ require- ments of the case, with the politest " Yes, ma'am," and ready for action like a military private under command. That was well enough, but when the good lady dis- appeared she was rated in first-class Irish fashion. Most of the Irish girls are domestic servants. The Yankee girls can't see their wa)- to be serfs to the fancies and caprices of any ovf'bearing madam. They can well enough understand to commence at six and stop at six, but to be all day on strain, as well as a goodly part of the night, is too much for their natures. In conse(iuence, they prefer shopwork or factory work, where the hours are fixed, and thus have the I Hi 62 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. ii time over and above entirely at tlieir own disposal Hence the Irish have the monopoly, and are much appreciated. It is wonderful how soon they become cooks, housemaids, laundrj-maids and nurses, all in perfection. Their adaptability for instruction, and their kno\\ledge of the languac^e help them ; whereas the Germans, Italians, and others are awfully at a discount, not knowint^ any language but their own. Mistresses in America delight in pointed thrusts at the characteristics and blunders of their Irish maid servants, while the masters pun eternally on the brogue, the misapplication of Yankee terms, the whiskey drink- ing properties and the general clumsiness of their Irish man-.servant.'^. I do not think that I have been in a single private famih' where some such good-natured topics did not crop up ; and, if my host and hostess were Irish themselves, or even Irish descent, all the worse. I found the Irish who by hard labour and perseverance had made for themselves means and position were particularly critical and severe on their own country folk, and yet rather indulgent and considerate to others. Here is what the Irish-American landlady says of the Irish girl : — " As you see, mj- servants rue all now Swiss or German. I couid no longer trouble with the Irish» In the first instance they reciuired to be trained, but wlien I had just trained them caret ully, having given much time to the task, they at once ceased to be obedient. They were often disrespectful, and in several instances I was confronted with a storm of abuse. They aped the maiuicr of our best-toned Americans in public, while in private they were dis- agreeable and insolent. I could not purchase a dress II COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 63 nor trinket that they did not follow with something in imitation, though much inferior in quality, as if in mimicry of my tastes. Like all of that unfortunate country, they took drink when the occasion arose, and it was never safe to expose them to the danger. They did all sorts of unmeaning things. One new arrival some time ago for her greater comfort sat upon the stove, and finding the position less comfortable than expected, set to righting it by the free use of icc- water,and this again failing took to whipping it into sub- jection. Another who accompanied me through town, finding the cars too thronged, and seeing in certain instances some enjoying the hospitality of their friends' knees, without the slightest apologj' or excusing her- self in the least, took this unheard of liberty with me. rcrha[)s she thought this was the general order, but I was so shocked I did not form the smallest resistance." Needless to continue. The other good things told were just in keeping, and enjoyable, no doubt, from their absurdity. The good madam had not much sympathy with her race. If she had learned to treat her helps with the respect due to them, they in turn would treat her respectfully. In happy contrast, here is what the real native American says of the Irish : — " If there is on earth a disinterested people, 'tis the Irish. They have helped to build up great nations, by fighting their battles, that now seek to despise them. Their own history is one of wrongs and suffer- ings, borne with the most unexampled patience. We are particularly brought into contact with their best (jualities through the Irish girl, who is a blessing in our homes. She is always cheerful, never churlish, and ofttimes witty. She is ready to be taught, and has a 64 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. great capacity to learn, and is wonderfully soon initia- ted into all the household duties. Her devotion to her parents and home are remarkable. At certain fixed times she is certain to forward to her aged father and mother a portion of her honest earnings, and is ever deeply interested in any project for the deliverance of her country. Though bodily in America, her heart and sympathies are in Ireland. It is always safe to entrust her with the most private affairs of families ; she is strictly honest, much devoted to her Church, and generall}- a good example for our children. Eventually she becomes part and parcel of the family, and is heartily interested in its well-being. When a separation occurs, we mourn her loss as one of our- selves." Which opinion is to be accepted ? Judge where is the less prejudice. The emigration problem is cer- tainly a great question, and its importance bursts upon you in all its reality when vou see the Irish eirl in America, young, pretty, open-hearted, and confid- ing, pining in exile far from friends and congenial associations, giving her best blood to the United States, and probably her bones to her native country —all a. pursuit of the phantom dollar. It is impos- sible to stop the stream in its onward course. We must stand by and look on. Nature seems trying to create irresistible attractions in countries uninhabited, so as to draw population. The most wc can do is endeavour to keep the stream in its proper channel. Just fancy! some 15,000 Irish girls pass through Ellis Island, at New York, each year, not to speak of thousands who are disembarked at other ports in the States, and the many who emigrate to Canada. I iTk COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 65 CHAPTER VIII. -OFF TO PHILADELPHIA. WHAT will Brooklyn folk say about my descrip- tion of New York, I wonder? There is hardly any rivalry between New Yorl and i^rooklyn, because the former is too far ahead. If there was any comparison between the cities in resources and popu- lation competition would be the natural sequence, but, as it is, the people of the City of Churches content themselves bv cjazinij across the river in admiration, and lauding the prosperity of the huge city, feeling proud to live so near. They will tell you their's is a beautiful city, but, of course, there's no city like New York. I don't know that I can ever dare to re-visit lirooklyn, not that I have said too much of New York, but that I have said too little of it — with its 800,000 inhabitants. That's no trifle of a city. A city here- abouts with half that population is certain to command respect, and be thought about. But here I am, after I don't know how many chapters on New York, without even mentioning the name of Brooklyn, save and except when it was impossible to get over the difficulty. This is snrel}' a recompense for the hospi- tality so generously and so generally accorded ! Brooklyn did not strike me as a new city. It looks very bricky, and there is by no means the bustle or hurry to be found across the river. If you arc not pressed fnr time, the most intcr^esting way to get to l^rooklyn is to walk leisurely over the world-famed Brooklyn Bridge. Here you can have a splendid view of the bay, the river, and the cities on both sides. , ■" t^ ' i III !!!i r '"i ii i Ml' i ^il! iil 1 66 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. \ This is one of the first feats I attempted in America, and, notwithstanding,^ the many attractions, I was glad to see the end of it. Just fancy a bridge a whole mile long, and 85 feet wide! There are two towers on each side 27S feet in height above high water, and proportionately solid. From these are suspended four cables of steel wire icj^ inches in diameter, which support the central span. The floor of the bridge is 135 feet above high water, so that any of our Atlantic Liners can pass u:ider in full rig. Thirteen years were spent in its construction, and it cost ^^3,000,000 sterling. Now, is it strange the Americans should have their boast now and then ? The principal business street is Fulton Street, while Clinton Avenue is the handsome street of the city. Here are the homes of the wealthy citizens of Brooklyn as well as New York, and if this world's comforts caa create happiness, then their cup is brimful. The street- is lined on both sides with trees, and many of the residences have ornamental grounds. I noticed, in addition to evergreens, that our rowan tree is a great favourite, and looked upon as being very ornamental. Many of the streets are paved with vcr)' hard and very real stones, whose heads would be nothing the worse for being crushed into better order. Brooklyn is pre- eminently the City of Churches. Churches arc every- where, but I was most interested in the Church of St. Charles Borromeo, which is famous for its music, and the Tabernacle of world-wide reputation, as being associated with the name of Dr. Talmagc. The city is largely Catholic, and the ceremonies of the Church arc carried out with great solemnity. The Brooklyn ites do not much parade their city for COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 67 admiration, but they usually ask you, if you arc a stranger, whether you have been to Prospect Park. This park is one of the largest and most beautiful I have seen, and there is no time when it appears to better advantage than on Sunday afternoon. 'Twas. my privilege to see it then, more from accident than any pre-arrangcment, and the immense crowds of people passing and repassing, as well as the incessant whirl of vehicles, made me dizzy. On the same occasion a friend drove me to Coney Island, some five or si.x miles from the city, so that [ might have an opportunity of deciding how the good folk there observed the Sabbath. I shall not easily forget our journey thither. Vehicle followed upon vehicle in such quick succession that there was hardly standing room. The pace was pretty rapid, but one followed after the other in good order. Soon the line was broken, and a gentleman, apparently anxious to be seen to the best advantage by his two lady friends, ran almost abreast with us, but sufficiently in advance to show his supcriorit}'. I rather enjoyed the situation, but it was (juitc otherwise with my friend. Several times he expressed his dissatisfaction at this mode of treatment, and his willingness to uphold his dignity. It appeared to me I had a character to lose, and did not wish to engage in this contest. Seeing, however, that it was useless to raise objections, I somewhat approvingly permitted things to take their course. We next erred against good order, and the battle went on. The struggle was a fierce one, and the victory for a long time seemed doubtful. A bicycling group of nigger girls stopped operations to sec the result, and a little farther a gentleman and lady driving bicycle m "1 u IP! t ^! 68 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. M tandem in the excitement overbalanced. Many were the plaudits for both sides, and the struggle was a long and hard one. Victory at length rested with us, much to the chagrin of our opponent, who, extremely crest- fallen, edged off at the next crossing. On reaching our destination 'twould seem as if the inhabitants of 15rooklyn, New York, and Jersey had fled panic-stricken from their cities to find refuge at Coney, so vast was the assemblage there. Seeing that their time was so much taken up in amateur horse-racing, switch-back railways, miniature Ferris wheels, the retailing of beers and small brandies, as well as sea-bathing, I did not think the occasion suitable to investigate how far they read the Bible and devoutl)' prayed, nnd, Lherel'ore, after a few hours' delay, steered once more to town. On our way we took occasion to visit Calvary Cemetery. I had heard a good deal of this receptacle of the dead. Many times it cropped up in the society of friends, who hardly hoped to .see again their native land, and resignedly settled upon resting their bones in C'alvary. The touching wax- in which they expressed this resignation much affected me. The whole as a cemetery is not exceptionally fine, and I mu.st rather confess I was disappointed. Some of the monuments, bearing unmistakable Irish names, are very fine. As to the church, it is entirely out of keei)ing with the place, and is an old wooden structure, not very well kept in order at that. Calvary is the Catholic burying-ground. I had almost forgotten to speak of the chctric car system, which is in full .swing in Ikooklyn. In this respect it has the advantage of New York. I took occasion to mention their remissness to the citizens of COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 69 i« the latter, but in reply they informed me of the terrible evils inseparable from that system. Among other things, I was informed of the great destruction to human life, several persons being killed daily through the falling of wires. Strange to say, the folk living in immediate proximity to the supposed scenes of dis- aster never once heard of such fatalities. So much for the authority of jealous neighbours ! The people of Brooklyn are much more retiring and not b\' any means so much absorbed in business as their friends across the river. You will not find the continuous rush that is to be found in New York, nor so many able-bodied storekeepers hurrying between their several stores to see that all is well, coatless, vestless, braceless, and sometimes hatless. This is what Americans call business ! Much more time is devoted to the social joys of home, and the people seem better to understand that wealth is to be acquired only so ku as it contributes to make life happy. They are very hospitable and refined, and I may say I have met some who would do honour to our most distin- guished drawing-room parties. So, Brooklyn! good- bye. I'm off to Philadelphia! New York is wofuUy wanting in railway termini, and when you wish to proceed elsewhere you must usually cross the Hudson to Jersey. The Hudson is a magnificent river, and the scenery on both sides for thirty or forty miles is sublimely beautiful, and is often compared with the Rhine. As to Jersey, nobody ever thinks of saying a word about it, although its popula- tion is over 1 20,000. I had again and again made up my mind to visit Jersey, but was as often diverted from my purpose, my friends assuring me that it was : m 70 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. i the most God-forsaken of places. In such matters, however, I did not ahvays find friends reliable. AccordinjT to them, all the great sights were to be seen in places I had not yet seen, and particularly, having: heard my proc^ramme, where I was not likely to visit. Jersey, I found, was a very reL^ularl)' laid out town ; the streets are broad, running at right angles to each other, and solidly built. There are a great many manufacturing establishments, but it is [jrincipally noted for its connection with most of the railway systems of the United States. I looked hard for the proverbial Jersey farmer, but could find none to cor- respond to my ideal. The ferry boats crossing in connection with the railway's might well be termed floating islands. They have little pretensions to style, but in extent they beat all records. Mere you will find passengers, horses in vehicles, gentlemen quite at ease in their buggies, others on horseback, professional hucksters and their wares all jumbled together as best they can, and regarding the whole with perfect indifference as the most matter of course thing in the world. What is there wonderful in this ? The wonder rather is that the whole train of railway cars, locomotive included, is not floated across, as happens in other parts of the States. Arrived at the Penn.sylvania Railroad depot, the con- ductor rings out in accents clear, "Philadelphia, Pitts- burg, Chicago, and the West," and you forthwith take your seat. The American cars completely out-distance ours in point of comfort. They are, in plain English, veritable palaces on wheels. Every home comfort can be had. There is no difference in the classes ostensibly, but the enterprising railway men get over i( ilL COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 71 < the difficulty, and at the same time preserve the democratic principles of the country. Several com- panies, such as the Pullman, the V'agner, and Palace Car, totally independent of the railway companies, undertake to supply them with specially-constructed carriafTcs, which, for convenience and arran<^ement, are perfect boudoirs. You first procure the recjular ticket, then sjjo, say, to the office of the Pullman Company, and there pay the e.xtra. The companies afterwards arrauLje matters, and, no doubt, chuckle over the success of the scheme. Instead of cnterin^j at the side, as in our carriai;es, you enter at the end, and can walk rii^ht through to the locomotive, there bcini;" a central passai^e all the way. You arc just as comfortable as in your own room, l^^ach compartment contains about twelve seats on each side of passapje, acconnnodating respectively two persons, and arranged so that all passengers face in the direction of engine ; and are, therefore, much more agreeable than ours, where fellow-travellers in- evitably g;\r{Yc into each other's faces. They can be also arranged to serve for couches, and parties of four can .so settle matters as to have the pleasure of seeing each other face to face. The porters accompany the train, and on arriving at each station announce its name at the entrance of the respective cars, .so there is no difficulty on that head. You are not quite seated when the coloured waiter shouts at the top of his voice, " Last call to dinner," or, as it may happen, "supper," but the "last" is always sure to be appended. I have several times taken meals on the cars, and received as good atten- tion, and was presented with quite as good a bill of ii i I I 1 I 72 COLUMBIAN SKIlTCIIES. fare as at any first-class hotel, the fee being in all cases, wherever or whatever the meal, one dollar. The waiters are nearly always niggers, extremely good- natured, and liked to be joked with. Their faces are very happy, and the darker the complexion the better. In fact, the darkies turning white wear a sort of scowl or mournful look, as if regretting the misfortune that had befallen them. The Americans have reduced the fatigue and incon- venience of travelling to the minim' :m. There is the drawing-room, smoking-room, sleeping-room (there being usually two beds, one over the other, as on ship-board), wash-room, reading-room, lavatory, bath- room, and barber's shop. There is also an outlook car to accommodate tourists who are interested in the scenery of the country. In case you wish to write a letter, you have a writing c'csk ([uite convenient, with pen and paper, and may at once set to work. Perhaps you are not accustomed to writing under such circum- stances, and find the duty difficult to perform, and notwithstanding, still imperfect ; so the best thing to be done is to entrust it to the ty[)ewriter at the other corner, who will execute >'our order with cheapness, neatness, and dispatch, and have the same mailed at the next stopping. I was just having my first experience of American railwr.y travelling, and regarding with no small amaze- ment the delicious luxury of the compartments, the furniture, upholstered in rich velvet, of the drawing- room, the high and wide windows and their sumptuous draperies, the beautiful writing-desks and book shelves, when the porter shouted clearly and sharply, " Phila- delphia." We had come to the City of the Quakers. COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 73 \ CHAPTER IX.-SOJOURN AMONC. THE QUAKERS. A FRIEND said to mc a few days ago, " I have been reading your ' SUetchcs,' and If you so- journ among the Quakers as long as you have dallied with the New York folk we can hardl}- hope to hear of your arrival at Chicago and the Fair, about which we are so anxious, sooner than twelve months hence." " While extremely grateful," I rejoined," to anybody who gives me good advice, and admitting that I have been rather prodigal in my attention to the folk afore- said, I must state on my own behalf that I had endeavoured somewhat to prepare my friends for this trouble, and, besides, I was then fresh at the business. You will be rather surprised," I continued, "how quickly I shall label the Quakers juid place them one side." My friend smiled approvingly, and said something to the effect that the public should hardh' ever know to whom the)- owed so deep a debt of gratitude. Philadelphia is styled the " Quaker City," but the title seems inapplicable just now. The city was founded by William Penn, who bought the site from the Indians, and from whom also the iState of Penn- sylvania derives its name. He was an Englishman and a Quaker. Emigrating from England about the 17th century, he brought with him a colony of his breth- ren, and settled on the banks of the Delaware, there founding the " P'riendly City," which rapidly increased in population and importance. Although the Quakers, or, as they would rather call themselves, the " Society ^!S-I!il •I! H '! I'i 74 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. * of Friends," grew to be a large and respectable colony, they had never much influence as a proselytising sect, partly on account of the cold formality of their wor- ship, and partly from want of a clerical organisation. The society, therefore, never became an\-thing like general, and at no time could the whole reckon upon more than 300,000 members. They are said, however, to be honest in their dealings, and generally ui)right in their lives. The .sobriquet " Quaker ' is applied to them on account of their extraordinary re\ jrencc for the very na me of God . 'Tis about time Philadelphia should cease to be called tho Quaker City. Quakerism being a thing of the past, or, if still existing, its professors keep very much )nd(3or.s. In all my wanderings there, which were many and varied, 1 had but the good luck to hit upon two real Quakers, donned in their ([uaint grey costumes in the style of two centuries i)ast, and notably .sage and silent. They sat quite convenient to me in the cars, .so that 1 had am[)le opportunity of pronouncing on their rrovements. Although ap- parently in the relation of man and wife, being of corresponding ages, and occupying the same .seat, no word once escaped their lips, and when after quite a dis- tance, it was their time to decamp, they did .so, taking with them their little j^arcels, and .still i)reserving the same unbroken silence and anticpie look. " So won- der," I thought, " that a religion which bears ujion the very face of it such gloom is destined to die of rapid consumption." So much for the two old Quakers of that former stronghold, and o: ^bably by the time this work reaches the second edition, they, too, shall have ceased to quake. "^ COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 75 Speakini^ from experience, iny best belief is the "" Friendly City " should in all future time be called the City of Psalmists, jud.cjing from the psalm-singing tendencies of it^: people. This trait appe.n-ed to best advantage on board the '* Republic"' sailing down the Delaware to Cape May one gloriously fine day towards the end of July. There could not have been less than 4,000 individuals on that excursion all in holiday attire infr iinl' ><'u>ff1 fnir in th(.' " Land of the I^'ree," and I almost imagined m\'- sclf suddenly transplanted to the " Land o' Cakes," among the psalm-singing, bible-reading, Hurns-recit- ing Scotch ! In the name of wonder, cannot peoj)le sing and pray to their hearts' content at home or in church for the rest of their lives without parading their piety on excursion days, before those wlio could, under no circumstance, sympathise with them, much less on holidays ? Cape Ma)- is a ver)- fashionable bathing resort, esi)ecially for the Philadelphians. The village, how- ever, contains but a few thousand, remarkable for nothing in particular, e.\cep>t its hotels, boarding houses, and villas, such as might be expected at any watering place. There is a splendid drive along the beach, five miles long, which is very generally availed of. Persons unaccustomed to Amerir n ways will be r.ither shocked on seeing the ladies . ,d gentlemen bathing together, but there is, after ail, little objection- able, considering that both are dressed in special bathing dresses, with sandals, and even bathing head- dress. I rather think if the Americans came to our L COLUMBIAN SKr.TCHES. n bathinjT resorts they shouki have more reasonable j^rounds for complaint on seeing the after-date customs of many even of our pretentious sea-goers. I fancy old Stephen Girard, like myself, got rather much of "he psalms in his lifetime. So it would appear from the nature of his bequests. I forget now how many volumes make out his will, but I do remember that he is particularly severe on evangeliscrs. No clergyman is admitted to the institution which bears his name, Sunda\' or week day, even as a tourist. 4 \_4 V^W»iv-wvij ^Our party*"hacin[leteriii in cd cji rvtsi ting Gi r a and the permits pointed out this fact in no mistakable terms. There was the inevitable clergyman in the number, and what was to be done? Well, that clergy- man got us into more trouble than anything I can recollect, and when ne.xt I visit America I'll take precious good care his reverence shall stay at home. One advantage he had over the rest — he always travelled for a little over half fare in the States, and, when he was come down upon, he turned pretty quickly about with this rejoinder. The same was the custom •of ('anada, but 'tis fast disappearing. Now, here we were deliberating and thinking out the most likely successful scheme. Mis reverence began to apologise for being a clergyman at all, and was prepared to forego his part of the sight-seeing, apparently thinking the game was not worth the i)laying. " Not at all," said an enterj)rising American, "under other circum- stances, that nn'ght be so, but the opposition doubly enhances its relish. Just leave the matter in my hands, and I promise to lead you to certain victory." All was entrusted to our friend, and he did the engin- eering with much tact. Soon his reverence underwent ilf Hi' -si. ! '( : M \ tm fi 78 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 4 ! such a change that he could hardly recognise himself in Wanamaker's best mirrors, or say to what profes- sion he really belonged. Everybody enjoyed this feat, and good-humouredly advanced to seek admission. The porter sat in awful state, although without h'very, and inquired in tones decisive if there was a clergyman in the part)-, ga/ing fixedly on the real culprit. Our American friend answered for all, and in tones as determined, assured him he was no clergy- man, and that the others were European tourists, which was true. There were no further inquiries, and we all affixed our signatures to a very voluminous roll-book, and passed through, extending many mutual congratulations on the successful issue of the little plot. At various places through the buildings and grounds vv^e were questioned as to whether we had come by the highway, or had taken advantage of the bye-way. Our pilot again led, and answered for the party somewhat gruffly and defiantly that we were not people to take advantage of bye-ways, and so we were permitted to explore as much of this mysterious insti- tution as we Crired. In the laundry, which is composed in a good measure of Irish girls, there was much chuckling, the villains knowing right well there was an offender in the crowd. This College was founded by Stephen Girard, a native of h^-ance, who was singularly fortunate in the New World, and acquired considerable wealth. Me bequeathed ^400,000 sterling for suitable buildings, endowing the institution with the residue of his propert) , for the svipnort and education of destitute orphan boys. The estate is now valued at ^3,000,000 sterling. The buildings are of beautiful white marble. COLUMBIAN SKETCHEF. 79 about four storeys in height, the halls and corridors well ventilated and very architecturally designed. There might be 1,400 boys on the play-ground, en- gaged in all sorts of out-door games. They are kei)t in the home until between the ages of fifteen and eighteen, and are taught a trade, receiving at the same time a pretty liberal education, and finally provided with situations. No clergvman of anv denomination has any ^^ay to the concern, and there is no form of worship ])ractised. except that they assemble on Sunday in a spacious round room, which in turn serves for amateur theatricals, to hear the reading of the Hiblc, but with- out comment. (3n leaving the institution, they are at perfect freedom to adopt whatever form of worship they may think right, and it is very remarkable that seldom do they become Catholics. It appears to me, Stephen ! )'OU made a mistake in this matter. In what respect could these boys be the loser for being trained to the religion of their parents? IJut Stephen complains of the great plethora of religions, and the many winds of doctrine, and, there- fore, gives them time to mature and decide for them- selves which course to pursue. And hence in this particular the\' are placed in a better position than if they had not been orphans? How inconsistent ! I do not blame the author of this original idea. He was clearly in his way benevolent, but as clearly had his fad.s. However, I do not blame a law which carries out to the letter a becpiest so unrea. son able. What will the folk two centuries hence say of this arrange- ment? During my stay at Philadelphia I was the guest entirely of friends, so that this time I was released liLi • m -M cSo COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. i I ■ i from the /•»'.'> ^ ? V » 1' 4'> f^r^ f-\ t ^^i.>aj. I v.. kiiiii liti L/t y white fronts, without offering the smallest apology. Now, how should I have looked thus divested in the presence of three ladies in a countr)- where ladies rule the roast in all things, and whose decision is ever regarded final ! In Philadelphia I had a real good time, and find it difficult to say — Adieu ! I may have occasion again to refer to its population, the general disposition of its people, and its public buildings. ith as wasn't, ;, con- ivcvcr, s, prc- ctcris- show, them, r, but i\i Ok Ufiy ology. in the js rule ^ ever d find again I of its ■ M -I «■ I i HIS EMINENCE CARDINAL GIBBONS COLUMBIAN SKETCH KS. «i • I ; CHAPTER X.-I5ALTIM()KE. IN goinp^ throu^rh American cities the stranger is somewhat puz/lcd to learn the significance of the words " free lunch " over the entrance of so many beer shops. As a matter of fact, it means that you can enter and without further cer< monj- partake of l unche on free and forthwith go your way unmolested. This you will consider a rather strange mo(l(fr)f~pro- " cedure, and will wonder how the barman can live and extend such generous hospitality to the public. But don't be alarmed ; he makes it pay. The polite thing to do is introduce yourself by ordering your beer first and partaking of luncheon afterwards. The materials which make up the latter arc highly seasoned, and you arc not likely to have made much progress when a most distressing thirst overtakes you. Then, of course, you order more beer, and, this failing, more, until you have fairl\' paid your footing. This is an old institu- tion in the country, but, like man\' another good thing, ceased in a great measure since the civil war. Men's hearts then became harder. I was particularly interested in these little details, and went out of my way oftimcs to .see how they came off, for it is by such traits you get at the character of a people. An American gentleman on board the steamer asked me if I was about to make America my future home and become a citizen, speaking somewhat flatteringly of my prospects. I assured him that was not m\' intention, being no great admirer of the Americans and their institution.s. " Do not,' he said^ r IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V /. .^ ^ # V^ ^ //J,. ^ A y. ^ & ^ I.U 1^ "* " I.I 12.5 1^ i^ 111112.2 - lia illlM — 6" 1.8 11-25 mil 1.4 IIIIII.6 V] <^ /] •^^ a;,^ '^1 >^ 7 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. M580 (716) 872-4503 84 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. *• speak thus of America. My friend, you will not be one week in the country until you'll have your rocking chair, your water melons, your iced lemonade through a straw, and your free lunch." Before I was quite four •days in the country I had partaken of all four, and then only recollected the prophecy. Why should people, therefore, draw rash deductions ? The free lunch institution is at its best in New York and Chicago. Philadelphians are too staid for such trifles. Their neighbours speak of them as extremely cautious in all their sayings and doings, and, though obliging, very reserved and taciturn. On my de- parture for Washington, a Philadclphian took his scat with me in the cars, and kept talking on various topics with much earnestness and intelligence. At length he came to ask me in what respect I hoped to turn my experience in America to account. " Well," I said, " I hope to write a few sketches on my return, giving my impressions of the country." " Have you taken many notes ? " he asked. " I have taken none so far," I answered, " and don't believe much in note taking." " And you're going to write on America without so much as a note?" I nodded, signifying that such was exactly the .state of the case. He only said, " Hem ! hem ! " and suddenly became deaf and dumb. My efforts to draw him into conversation again and again failed, and about the end of an hour's journey of unbroken silence he went his way quite forgetting to say good-bye. Woe to the man in Philadelphia whose character is not above suspicion ! He must be careful how he walks, and how he talks, and with whom he associates ; the restaurant where he takes his lunch and the shop L COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 85 where he sips his iced lemonade must be in keeping with his condition, otherwise he shall find himself shut out the next time he attempts to poke in his head among respectable people. There is a good deal of pretension to piety, and \ou can judge so much from the general manner of the people. That effort at sober, quiet dignity, which the Yankees elsewhere disdain as characteristic of John Bull, is pretty con- spicuous in the Philadelphians. As to the city, its plan is most regular. The popula- tion numbers something over half of New York, and yet Philadelphia covers much more ground. Formerly the rivers Delaware and Schuylkill, which run somewhat parallel, formed the boundary of the city, but lately the entire county of Philadelphia is incorporated. The public buildings arc about the finest I have seen in the country, while the newspaper buildings are many and exceedingly pretentious. I remember having visited the office of the Times, which is a paper deservedly of good standing, not only in the city but all over. The city editor, to whom I was introduced hs a European tourist, received me with much cordiality, and, as his work was all but finished, showed me everything of interest in the building, and, therefore, I had the opportunity of witnessing the whole process — type setting, stereotype printing, both sides being printed together, until 1 saw the paper thrown off, folded, dried, and ready for use. What wood-cuts I shall never forget ! It is hard to think they are an imagin- ative people when they require so many and such figures to set their mind a thinking. " How," 1 said, addressing the editor, " do you manage to keep your paper out of trouble ? People novv-a-days are so ■it 36 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. susceptible that they are ready to pounce on the news if their Christian or first names aren't given correctly." *' Well," he said, '' once in a while we get into a mix. But in difficult cases we have often out twenty re- porters, so as to get at the facts. Then when we receive their respective versions we put the whole to- gether, stir carefully, and accept the extract." I entirely acquiesced in his views, and took my leave, expressing myself highly pleased with the establish- ment in general and his attention in particular, which I was. I afterwards took occasion to refer to the genial manner in which the editor rcceiv^ed mc, and the interest he displayed in pointing out everything worthy of notice in the place ; wondering that he could inconvenience himself so much for a perfect stranger. My friend who accompanied me, and led to our introduction, was gratified. " A capital fellow," he said, " and a good Christian ; but a little bit sceptical on hell," he added, with a significant leer. " We often have a tremendous war on the subject, but it is the old story of Shakespeare's boxing match — Laertes wounds Hamlet, then there is a scuffle, and Hamlet wounds Laertes, and always part in good terms, both feeling victorious." Of all the buildings in the city. Independence Hall is the most interesting, and no visitor thinks of leav- ing Philadelphia without making a pilgrimage thither. Here was the memorable Declaration of Indepen- dence signed, and proclaimed to the excited populace in 1776. Here is preserved the Bell of Liberty, that first sounded the note of freedom when that Declara- tion was passed ; and here Washington, whose memory shall be ever dear to his country, delivered his fare- S COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 87 I well address, touching for its earnestness and pathos, on his retiring from pubhc duties to his quiet country- home at Mount Vernon, and his more congenial employment of farming wheat and tobacco. Phila- delphia was originally the seat of government, until its transfer to Washington, and, of course, the resi- dence of the first President. Independence Hall, there- fore, played an important part in framing the Consti- tution, and many relics of the youthful Republic are carefully treasured there. The building itself is pre- served in all its originality, but is far from imposing. The Mint, where the United States coin is manu- factured, is ;i beautiful building, of white marble, with a graceful portico ; and a visit there is most interest- ing. Here may be seen the whole process of coining, beginning with the bullion and ending with the money pieces ready for circulation, and here may be seen a rare collection of coins of different periods. The em- ployes are mostly women. They handled the pieces with the dexterity of conjurers, and never once noticed our invasion. In America, women are in a great measure employed in Civil Service departments. In most of the public offices at Washington women officers confront you at every turn. Every \vhere women receive the greatest attention and respect, but at the same time, are not considered above earning their own livelihood, and that reverence does not reach such a degree of superstition, as with us, that they are shut out from honourable employment. In what regard will reverence for woman clothe her deli- cate frame and nourish her with the bread of life ? At some future date she may be thrown on her own resources, and why should she not be prepared for f L 88 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. such contingency and able to make her own way? What does respect, and especially in such circum- stances ? If anything, it only creates more depen- dence. Woman was not created to be absolutely in man's power ; she has a distinct destiny of her own. Jonathan's daughters realise this to the full, and they are right. All, therefore, no matter what their posi- tion, have some means of earning a livdng if occasion arose, and in most cases utilise the means, being employed in one way or another. There is much more business in the quiet, sober, city of the dead than folk elsewhere imagine, especially m Market Street and Chestnut Street, which are very elegant streets, as is also Broad Street, which is made up of magnificently-designed private residences. The store of John Wanamakcr, at the corner of Chestnut Street, is certainly the finest it has been my lot to meet. It begins as a drapery concern, but I have no very clear idea of how it ends. Every sort of ware I could think of, is to be found there The whole re- minded me much of a section at the Columbian Exposition, even in this particular, that when you are tired you could have refreshments within its precincts. Our clothiers will be rather amused to learn that their Yankee brethren do not utilise shelves for their goods, but counters, running parallel to each other through the building, and there they arc scattered in all manner of shapes. Indeed, it is often difficult to know which the custo.mer and which the salesman. Neither does the salesman receive your money. He sells you the goods, prepares your parcel, and makes out your account. You forthwith hand your account with the sum to the receiver hard by, who places both in a COLUMBIAN SKITTCIIES. 89 little receptacle for the purpose, which is hoisted into its track for the cashier's office, where it quickly drops. Jn less time than it takes to tell, the account returns marked " paid," as well as whatever balance remains. Thus, weak salesmen are saved from temptation. The manager took much interest in showing us all the arrangements, and meanwhile created much merri- ment by styling one of our party profcssoi\ If the American does not know your position he calls you professor, because he assumes you profess something. If you do not know his title call him colonel ; if this fails, call him judge ; and if he is very fussy and talkative, call him senator. Inside of this triangle you are prctt\' safe ; but professor is sure to catch him. In some of the larger firms there are four, and often five thousand odd hands employed, all liv^ely at work. A word of advice before starting for Baltimore en route for Washington — Go and see Fairmount Park ! It is hardly a park in the proper acceptation of that term, but a vast district of country running for seven miles along the both banks of the Schuylkill and embracing 33 miles of driveways. Without a visit thither the Philadclphians will regard you the merest tyro in the knowledge of their city. I should have hurried past Baltimore, for me neces- sarily uninteresting, were it not the home of America's greatest dignitary, Cardinal Gibbons. Throughout the Catholic world his name is a household word, and especially with the Irish. Born of Irish parents at Baltimore, he is more Irish t'-an the Irish, and, by whatevci' coincidence, his father returned to Ireland when the future Cardinal was but ten years old, and G I m . ■ 'A \ I > 90 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. * It I I I! ii here he received Confirmation at the hands of Arch- bishop MacHale. However that be, and although born in America, he is Irish to the core. He is as accessible as the most untitled of his clergy. You at once feel at home with him, and forget he is the highest Catholic dignitary in a vast country of 66 millions. Cardinal Gibbons is about sixty, but he looks much younger, and his genial Irish face brightens to its best when he comes to speak of Ire- land. He is one who is not ashamed of the Irish blood that is in him, nor spoiled by dignities and titles. He is very inquisitive on the affairs of Ireland, and earnestly hopes that some redress may soon come for the people's grievances. The Cardinal does not impress you so much with his great talents, which are undoubted, as his extreme good nature which sweetens all his surroundings, and you at once realize that he has worked his way to the top by humility, perseverance, and uprightness. As to Baltimore City, it is the capital of Maryland, and, of course, very Catholic. Its growth has been rapid, and it now numbers over 400,000. The harbour adds greatly to its picturesqueness, and its churches and public buildings rival those of the largest cities of the Union. Niggers are everywhere, and )-ou are often puzzled to make out the difference between two of the brethren. I was sitting on a seat, surrounded with flowers and flower-beds, for quite a distance on both sides, right in the centre of a street of beauti- ful private residences, and trying to make up for wasted energy consequent on too much sight-secmg, when two negro women, one bearing a child of two years old in her arms, advanced and occupied the seat COTAJMHIAN SKETCHF.S. 91 opposite mc. They took to conversation, and, as I was too fatigued to leave the way, I was subjected to the annoyance of overhearing them. The coloured mother of the coloured scion toolc to speaking of its perfec- tions, and told how it knew father, and loved him, and how father reciprocated that love, and how it tried to meet father on his daily return from work, and how disappointed father was if that little meeting did not take place, and how intelligent it was, and how it slept at the proper time, and always awoke at the most convenient hour — in one word, that the little negro cad, with its woolly head and chubb}- face, was perfection personified. The lady friend nodded assent, and disputed the account in no particular. Why should she? Are there not on this side of the Channel and elsewhere mothers, whoso faces arc white enough to have better sense, and yet, whose ideas arc just as dark upon the same subject ? m^ I! t !;:.i 92 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. CHAPTER XI.— COUNTRY LIFE IN AMERICA. THERE is the very notable sayinfr of a very notable American, " Go West, young- man, go West." I> too, should counsel my young friend to go West, but prepare for all the consequences. Here and there as I went, in addition to personal experience, I encountered many of the experimenters whose story of disappoint- ment and hardships minutely coincided, that I shudder for the West-bound youth. Whether as farmer's assistant, or farmer, lumberman, or miner, all the same, the inconveniences to be borne with are such that few at best can form but a faint idea of the fate that awaits them. 'I'he life of the farmer and his assistant are so very much akin that 'tis difficult to draw the line. He labours side by side with his help, chats, laughs, occasionally loses vemper, orders, is at times imperious, and all the more to his own countr}'men. In this regard the Irishman— whether as farmer, business man, or else — forms no exception, and now and then twits his old country friend, and in- forms him that his aspirations to succeed in a crreat country like America, of such brilliant talents, and education, and enterprise, are too silly to be even scouted by sensible folk. I ma\' here mention that I have met a certain class of my country people, in whose presence I had no small difficulty in keeping my balance. They were such as I had known as dependents or in poor circumstances, and had grown to be wealthy. Soon they informed me that America was the country where merit only was rewarded, so COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 93 M different from the old country, where position fell to those for which they were by no manner nor means adapted. At times they came down with severity on the customs, i'. Of the whole I do not believe that I have seen a face quite unfamiliar to me. In the case of the niggers even I always fancied that I saw some old familiar f^ice peeping from behind the darkness. Washington is the capital of the United States, not by population, but as being the seat of government. It is without doubt the most beautiful city in America, but not the most beautiful in the world. Its popula- tion so far is but 250,000, which includes Georgetown, but its founders clearly designed it for a population of one million, and, judging by its increase for the last few decades, their anticipations were well founded. The city is very skilfully planned, with the Capitol and White House as centres, from which radiate great wide avenues intersected here and there with parks, having neatly kept walks and flowers and shrubs and grass-plots, so very green by the constant jutting fountains. It is hardly necessary to add that the Capitol is the house of legislature, which is about three-quarters of a mile distant from White House, the residence of the President. COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 105 I visited Washington twice — first, soon after my arrival in the country, and again after an extended tour in the Southern States. On my first visit the President was absent at his country seat, but on my second I found him at home, and Congress was in full swing. Mr. Cleveland, who is a native of Caldwell, New Jersey, is tall of stature, somewhat dark in complexion, and with a great deal of natural dignity. He is a man of powerful build, some fifty-five years old, with a face stamped with energy and resolution. His appearance impresses you more as an Englishman of position than an American, and when he talks his manner and accent savour more of England than America. There did not happen to be any public receptions during my stay, owing to the terrible crush of business, the great financial question being then on the boards, and hence the President's time was too much taken up. His private secretary, who is a gentleman of much culture, greatly regretted his inability to receive visi- tors, and assured me if I could wait for two or three days he could manage to s'" ,ure me a private reception. The honour was too great, and I thankfully declined. I was nevertheless grateful for the promise of a privi- lege so singular, and in a fitful moment of exultation referred to this exceptional favour. An American, to whom I communicated my feelings of gratitude — nay, pride — smiled hard, and assured me he had known street scrapers accorded a similar distinction. How- ever, I saw the President talking, walking, driving, and what more did I require, except to take him by the hand and say, " How are you, Mr. Presidei^t ? I hope Mrs. Cleveland and yourself are well," which he would much prefer to be omitted. H ; i io6 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. There is comparatively little curiosity about person- ages in the States. I have met quite a number of people at Washini^ton who had grown gray there, and never yet attended a public reception at White House, which happens thrice a week, and were wholly ignor- ant of what the President looked like. Each day about four o'clock, when the work is over, Mr. Cleve- land drives his special drive, but with absolutely no guard nor protection. I met him, and for inquiries' sake, asked a fairly intelligent specimen of an Ameri- can whom I chanced upon at the time, if that was the President who passed. " It may be," he answered, " I don't know him. We never trouble about old Grover right around here." As a matter of fact, there is little intercut centred in the personality of the President, the people know- ing full well that in four years' time he must take his departure, bag and baggage, and make room for a successor, or, if he is very fortunate, at the most eight years, but never more. The founder of the Great Republic set an example in this matter, which has been ever since strictly followed, and no one has yet attempted to outstep his limits. In about two years, therefore, Mr. Cleveland and his whole party and retinue shall get cleared out, and, of course, the coloured door-keeper up stairs with the rest. I for one won't be sorry for the latter. I had just been to the South, and had there seen some very palpable traces still remaining of the barbarity with which the negro race was treated in the days gone by, and bitterly felt for their wrongs, and read " Uncle Tom's Cabin," and wept, and read again and wept. But here I was now confronted by one of those in whose i COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 107 i interest I mourned, and who seemed the sole pro- 'etor, with absolute authority to insult everybody • ' ^han himself. His attacks on the visitors, myself c»mong the rest, were made in a bitter, unbearable undertone, which was maddening. For the time I could not help thinking that I had been previously carried away by sentimentalism, and I grieved for my grief Enough of this homily. I am glad the negroes are emancipated, but emancipation, to be sure, cannot mean unrestrained liberty of saying and doing as the fancy leads. It is pretty certain that the President of the greatest Republic on earth is unaware that he has such a snarling cur at his gate. Is every person who visits the White House supposed to be an office- hunter, or a designing politician whose visits to the President should be made as few and as far between as possible ? Isn't it well for people in the high places to descend at times and see for themselves how their underlings behave towards their subjects ? Be this as it may, the officers in the States are placed there by politics, and politics alone can cast them aside. I hope the next election will not be favour- able to the darky at the door at White House. The public reception by the President is the simplest thing imaginable, and the lack of formality is con- spicuous. Republican methods seem to entirely dis- countenance Government displays. My own personal opinion is that the world is yet far from being suffi- ciently advanced so as to dispense with them, and in proof thereof it will be remembered that two Presidents within a very short time have had to pay the forfeit of their lives for their unostentatious democracy. Mr. Cleveland is a little bit more wary than his io8 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. I predecessors, and I don't see that he can be blamed. Three times a week the President descends to the great room on the first floor, looking out upon the Treasury, and receives visitors of all climes and all conditions. As soon as the Secretary announces the President all stand up, and advancing in order, nnd without any deference to rank, each in turn approaches him and takes him by the hand, and, if there is any anxiety to be voluble, enquires the state of Mrs. Cleveland's health and his own, along with the satisfaction afforded by so distinguished a meeting. This sort of thing is tolerated, although it must be to him very annoying. The reception is thoroughly democratic in every detail, and all, the lowest with the highest, are received with the same courtesy and kindness. The military have little to do at White House, as is also the case in all the government departments to which I have been, and thus you can approach the head of the greatest country of the future as a friend and helper, without being dazzled into blind subjection by the sheen of countless swords. I did not observe even a policeman inside the walls, while persons of every grade were constantly entering the President's apart- ments. Nor could I help thinking of the ceremonies observable in similar circumstances when approaching the pettiest of our European princes. At one time senators called upon him, of course in great flurry and excitement, and then folk from different parts of the country by special arrangement, and some of them coloured at that, and all were admitted at once into the office of the Private Sccretar}-, except for the qualification obtained at the hands of the biting, snappish door-keeper. As soon as the Secretary is 1: i I ili ? COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 109 satisfied of your busin?ss, there is hardly any further delay. I noticed, among the rest, a coloured youth of some seventeen very restless and nervous, and in great anxiety to see the President. This was a test case, and I watched with much interest the treatment he received at the hands of a brother of his own ilk in office. The coloured janitor was particularly severe upon him, and aggressively questioned him in every detail. The youthful nigger managed somehow to keep his temper, which was no easy matter, and, having a good case, in the end succeeded in obtaining the required interview. So much for perseverance. Next day I witnessed a similar attack on a middle- aged negro woman, who had also come on special business to White House. On the whole, I became reconciled to my own treatment, and concluded as abuse was so plentiful I might with good reason expect a portion. When speaking of the President, I cannot omit saying a word of Mrs. Cleveland, the most charming and accomplished of American women. There have been some to find fault with the administration of Mr. Cleveland, and latterly I learn with much regret that his popularity is waning with the democratic party, to whom he owes his elevation. But all are agreed, whether Republican or Democrat, that the present mistress of White House has filled her position with great tact and ability, deservedly eliciting unbounded praise from all sides. She is very much the President's junior, being scarcely thirty, while her personal attrac- tions are considerable. Her maiden name is Frances Folsom, and is a native of ]3uffalo, New York. Gossips have it that Mr. Cleveland calls her " Frank " !iii.'-H no COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. when alone, but she always dignifies him with the title of " Mr. President." There is no special prece- dent in the matter, it appears. Mrs. Washington called her husband " General," while the wife of President Hayes styled him Mr. Hayes, and Mrs. Lincoln and Mrs. Garfield called their husbands re- spectively by their Christian or firr^t names. COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. Ill CHAPTER XIII.— THE STARS AND STRIPES OF AMERICA, MY last day in America was spent at Mount Vernon, the home of Washington. Many sad as well as joyous memories cluster around the Mount, connected as it may be said with the beginning and end of American history. However this be, my visit there was highly interesting, but with a goodly assortment of sadness. 1 had come to the country a stranger, and had made many friends, and formed most agreeable associations, which I found well nigh impossible to break up. Though prejudiced as every stranger was, I was forced to conclude that the Americans were a great people, their country a great country, and destined without doubt to be the greatest (.f the future. On the other hand, everything about m>^ reminded me of a brave general leading a brave people, goaded to rebellion by the tyranny of un- scrupulous oppressors. Their earnest and reasonable petitions, so respectfully presented and so scornfully rejected by their merciless rulers, their resolutions, too clearly the resolutions of men driven to despera- tion, and whose patience could no longer withstand the strain, the parting of friends for the scenes of battle, and the heartrending events during the many weary years of warfare, irresistibly burst upon my mind and painfully affected me. And then my : -t I 12 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. Stay in the country had dwindled to days, and now 'twas hours. How hard to think ! That night 1 was on board the "Etruria" for Liverpool, and bade Columbia a long farewell. All this saddened me in the extreme ; and some strange spell came upon me, and the tears started to my eyes. Tnere are two ways by which the Mount may be reached, but the more picturesque is by the Potomac River. By this route an excellent view of the river and the country around Washington may be obtained. The Potomac is the broadest river in the States, being at its mouth seven and a half miles wide ; at Washing- ton it is nearly two miles in width. The journey by the river takes about two hours, but the time is most enjoyable and passes quickly. On reaching your destination you are forthwith set upon by the photo- grapher, who insists on taking your picture with the others, and before the operation to all appearance is completed you are presented with a negative. If you are satisfied with your looks on settling your account you can have as many copies as desired forwarded in a few days to any address. The good folk who visit this Mecca of America are called pilgrims. I may mention that there is another route — namely, to Alexandria by steam cars, and thence by electric cars. Mount Vernon domain is at present in the hands of a ladies' association, and contains six acres. The sum necessary to purchase it fron, the descendants of Washington was raised by subscription, and it is still necessary to exact a small fee from visitors to meet incidental expenses. An aged negro acted as our guide, and took great pride in assuring us that his w COLUxAIBIAN SKETCHES. 113 forefathers had been long slaves in the Washington family, and that he himself had had the good fortune to be a slave to relatives of the great General. He had a strange drawl, but was civil and communicative, and ready to give all the information of which he was master. His countenance was very grave and somewhat mournful, and you felt that every word of his was reliable. On the whole, he was just the sort of person one might expect in such a place, and his selection as cicerone does credit to the nation's taste. The first point of interest to be seen was the old vault, in which the remains of Washington were first placed, which tvas in no respect different from a vault in our own country, except that it was very much neglected. A little farther on may be seen the vault in which at present repose the remains of the great leader, where they have been transferred, and also those of his wife Martha. The Sarcophagi are surrounded with a brick structure, and may be distinctly seen through an iron grating. Here the old negro became still more sor- rowful. Near to this place is the wooden pump, with its old-fashioned bucket, descending by a chain to fetch water. Everybody drank of it, and all used the same tin vessel for the purpose. Even in this par- ticular the democracy of the Americans is conspicuous. In all the public institutions and Government build- ings, even in the railway cars, there is ice water at every turn, and everybody drinks regardless of conse- quences, and, of course, out of the same bountiful cup. Should anybody's ideas rise above the recognised custom, and bring his own drinking cup or glass, he is immediately pounced upon, and there is hardly any mercy, except the whisper goes round that he is an i-ii 114 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. ignorant stranger, and then all are highly amused at his eccentricity. We next viewed the walls and trees designed and planted by Washington, which might have been equally well done by any other. The kitchen, with its old stove and cooking utensils, is just as it existed in the days of its renowned occupant. The house is a wooden structure, the centre being built by the brother of Washington, who was the former owner, and who bequeathed it to George. The wings were added by the latter. The bed upon which Washington died is still preserved, and the room is just as it was then. Martha, who survived him, then forsook the apartment, and occupied a room on the attic until her death. This room is preserved in the same way as at her death, and shown to visitors. The room occupied by Lafayette seems as if still in his possession. On the first floor are the dining room and great reception room, still excellently preserved. Various relics of the great leader are carefully treasured in the building, including his picturesque military costume and sword. The building itself is a plain two- storeyed house, constructed of wood — and there are a thousand and one country houses almost in the im- mediate vicinity superior to it. But the site on a beautiful elevation overlooking the Potomac, and com- manding an extensive view of the country, wooded on all sides, is the loveliest I have anywhere seen. Owing to the material of which it is constructed it cannot be preserved in its originality, although so far there are absolutely no signs of decay. 'Twould be indeed a pity if this relic of Washington were permitted to come to ruins and be no longer traceable. Mrs. Washington had been previously married, her COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 115 widowed name being Mrs. Martha Custis. On her marriage with George Washington, she is said to have been wealthy, and their union was a happy one. There was no issue of the mTriage, and, consequently, the General left no direct descendants. Perhaps in the nature of things 'tis best. Considering the great benefactor he was to his country, this day the Americans with all their democracy would have exalted his children's children into deities. It will come as a revelation to some that the " Stars and Stripes of America " arc of English origin. 'Tiswcll enough known that the Washingtons emigrated from Northamptonshire, England, where they were of a high social standing, and held some distinguished positions. The family crest was stars and stripes. In compliment to the Deliverer and Father of his Country, 'twas retained as the national emblem. 'Tis very difficult to convince the very anti-English in America that this was the real origin of their banner, or if con- vinced they are prone to grievously find fault with the framers of the Constitution for this little bit of leaning to Britain. The best Americans use pretty strong expressions when speaking of England., but the lower classes regard her as a monster, and their language is unbearable even to her enemies. Not far from Mount Vernon is the house of General Lee, who played such an important part in the Civil War. A visit thither is well worth the trouble ; and hard by is the national cemetery. No fewer than 16,000 soldiers repose there; the white and coloured troops occupy distinct portions. The granite sarco- phagus over the remains of 2,111 unknown soldiers collected after the war is most noteworthy. It is ii6 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. i surmounted by cannon and balls, military honours, and bears the following inscription : — Beneath this Stone Repose the bones of two thousand one hundred and eleven Unknown soldiers gathered after the war From the fields of Bull Run and the route to the Rappahannock. Their remains could not be identified, but their names and Deaths are recorded in the archieves of the Country, And its grateful citizens honour them as of their noble army of Martyrs. May they Rest in peace. September, a,d., 1866. Well, why not write Rcquiescant in Pace or R.I.P, at once? What would the Orangemen of the North say to the latter appendage on the tomb of their beloved kinsmen ? But then the Americans are accountable for this, and with characteristic common sense believe it as rational to wish the dead rest as wish the living good health. I should not omit the Capitol, which is the most interesting sight in or around Washington. Needless to say, the building is the finest in the country, and the site most commanding, and there, a complete view of the city on all sides can be obtained. It is constructed for the most part of white marble, and at the distance looks rather like a church, with its mag- nificent dome, its graceful columns and porticoes. In front there is a long ascent of steps, while in the rear the entrance is almost on a level with the driveway. Surmounting the dome is a colossal Statue of Liberty in bronze, 19^ feet in height, and weighing 8 tons. The dome is not the highest in the world, being 16 feet less than the dome of St. Peter's, in Rome. As to the interior, entering by the front, the House COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 117 of Representatives is on the right, and the Senate House on the left. I had the pleasure of visiting both when oratory was at its best, and the great financial question was uppermost. The Senate House is in charge of the Vice-President of the States, and the Speaker rules the House of Representatives. Their time was pretty much engaged keeping order in that crisis. The Senate House may be said to correspond somewhat with the House of Lords in England, and the Representatives with the House of Commons. There is hardly any formality, and wigs and policemen are conspicuously absent. The place of the latter is supplied by citizens for the most part who had served their country in the Civil War, and the loss mayhap of some of their members attests as much. Their dress is civilian, and no bunting. When a message was announced from the President there was some- thing of formality, but otherwise the whole was as comn: ^iiplace as the proceedings in the commonest of our courthouses. Most of the orators spoke a long time, varying from three-quarters to hours, and frequently appealed to their notes. They gesticulated a great deal, but except in a very few instances they were clearly unpractised speakers, whose position was above their education, and an occasional hint from Lindley Murray would have done service to many of them. However they are largely composed of lawyers and pressmen. Each had his own seat and desk, with writing materials. The seats are detached, and are so arranged that the whole presents the form, of a semi- circle with the Speaker or Vice-President as centre. Very often both were obliged with good reason to use their authority, and call upon order, directing senator ill If ( CI ii8 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. for SO and so or member for so and so to take his seat, and dispense with undcrtalk. 'Twas no un- usual thing, especially in the House of Representatives, to see groups of threes and fours collected here and there and having their talk while some member •was thundering forth his eloquence and making his mark in the world. The comicalness of the orators often forced me to laugh outright. At the end of every ten or fifteen minutes their gestures suddenly became frequent, their flow rapid, and then at length one tremendously long sentence with tremendous effort and furious gesticulations being got rid of, their arms were forth- with flung behind their shoulders, and there they remained. During the applause there was some time for arranging notes. Soon they twirled their beards, set to work again, and proceeded with renewed vigour. Alas ! how vain are human efforts ! The President is empowered to draw his pen through the pro- ceedings and there's the end. In other words the laws of the United States are absolutely at the nod of the President, and he is as absolute as the most absolute of our European monarchs. COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 119 CHAPTER XIV.— SMOKY PITTSBURG. WHOLE volumes might be written on Wash- ington City and the distinguished General whose name it bears. The character of the latter is best summed up in the words, " First in battle, first in peace, and first in the hearts of his countrymen." Washington folk generally are not so refined as might be expected. Most of them are, of course, importa- tions, who came to position with the present Govern- ment and who are liable to go with the next, and, therefore, not particularly caring to consult for sensi- tive people. There is hardly anything in the shape of manufacturing, and the people are for the most part depending on visitors or in Government posts. The permanent residents appeared to me very English, and in manner reminded me much of the inhabitants of summer resorts in England ; but do not improve on acquaintance. However, 'tis not for want of colleges and schools. There are mrmy such, including the Catholic University, where is the temporary residence of Archbishop Satolli, and not far distant the Georgetown University, which is in the hands of the Jesuits, and is the oldest Catholic college in the country. I shall hereafter have occasion to refer to the Papal Nuncio, and his mission in America. The Congress men, too, go to swell the throng and enrich the city. They are paid a salary of ^1,000 and mileage, but are liable to fines for non-attendance. They are often very comical. A member of the House of Representatives is tall, thin, dark, wears glasses and 1 I20 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. F moustachios, carries an immense tjuantit}' of old letters and new notes, which he is careful to make out daily, is always in a hurry, sports a cane, a white straw hat, a remarkably white vest, and gold Albert chain, assumes an intellectual air and is ready to improve, is less than forty, and hopes to be President. To find a Senator — make him ten years older, more staid, less fussy, give him an air of authority', a newspaper always ; let him talk loud and with accentuation ; let him discuss subjects of grave moment, political if possible, with consummate earnestness, and a ioo'c of sincere conviction ; dress him as above, subtract the cane, and add an umbrella, and you have a Senator. 'Tis hardly necessary to state that the President receives an annual income, for which he has to work hard. Hard work is the order of the day, and the Americans pride in their hard-working people. No- body boasts of being able to live at ease on the patrimony of his fathers. This spirit has built up the country, and may it long continue. The President forms no exception, and his position is no sinecure. For the greater part of the day he is in constant tension, receiving deputations, senators, private indi- viduals from various parts of the country, signing documents, giving public receptions, and the rest, ad infinitiiin. Different from the common herd, he cannot afford to lose his temper. This itself would be a relief and often dissipates monotony. Many people under pressure of business could by no manner of means bear up without an occasional ebullition of temper. It serves to brace the nerves, arouses dormant energy, while the angry voice acts on its author as musical sounds on the tired,, exhausted, and wounded soldier. COLUMBIAN .-KETCHES. 121 VV^hy .should a little digression so beneficial be so bitterly oppo.sed ? Positions of eminence preclude this luxury, and thus the President is handicapped. All the work must be c^ot thnnigh with apparent equanimity, and yet the pecuniary recompense is comparative)}' trifling. I was waiting for the next ascent of the elevator at the Washington Monument, which is the highest of stone on earth, when I was joined by a party from the Southern States. Like myself, they were out on a holiday, and were very agreeable and communi- cative. They entered with much warmth on the Civil War, and spoke bitterly of the treatment received from the North during that event. All of them were of English descent, and their forefathers had emigrated with the great exodus from England generations ago. They made many inquiries about the land of their fathers, and hoped yet to pay a visit there. From all they had been able to learn they should much like to see England, but not by any means to stay, for they understood it was notable for red-tapeism. The con- versation afterwards turned on the British Empire — its vastness and wealth, and the various sources of income to the Royal P'amily. The Americans often inquire how much money a man is worth, what can he make in the year, and, in conversation with foreigners, inquire how such matters stand abroad ; and, if their country has the superiority, they consider you the veriest fool, no matter what you are, not to avail yourself of its advantage^. As to the incomes of the Royal Family they were astounded, and, not to be outdone, took to scolding Her Majesty and all her clan out of house and home. " How much did you I r ir* 122 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. say the old Queen took yearly ? " observed a rather elderly individual of the party with an air of one upon whom some serious injustice had been perpetrated. '• Well," I answered, " she is yearly in receipt of £^Ss,ooo, not to speak of her income from private sources, which is considerable, and, in addition, the various members of the Royal Family have also their annual SL.^end." " Great Scott ! " exclaimed one of the junior members, "^385,000. That's 1,900,000 dols. and over, whereas the President of the United States has but 50,000 dols. in all, or ;^ 10,000 a year ! " The very sound of a million or two of dollars has a peculiar fascination for JOiiathan,and makes his pulse beat hard, Silence reigned supreme for some time, and nobody attempted to speak, but there was a strain in every face. At length the elu'^'-ly gentle- man renewed the assault. " Did you say something about the annual allowance of the other members of the Royal Family?" he inquired, with the same air of injustice. " Yes," I rejoined, " all the members have their annuities, beginning with the Prince of Wales, who has ^^76,000, which is 380,000 dols., down by degrees to the Duchess of Mecklenburg-Strelitz, who has but the modest annual of ^3,000, or 15,000 dols." " And what do they do for all this money ? " he con- tinued. " I am not sure," I said, " that their duties are specifically defined, but it is considered the duty of the nation to place them in a position of opulence corresponding with their exalted dignit}-." " That thing would never work around here," he added, angrily. "Our President is paid for working, and how he supports his wife and family is no business of the nation." ( f COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 12 I I , I At this stage the conversation was interrupted by the notice of ascent from the elevator man, and I was glad, for the atmosphere was getting too hot to be comfortable, and a discussion of much length ended with a few pithy sentences such as "We don't wonder that you people in Ireland are looking for Home Rule ; " " 'Tis good to be Queen of England ; " "I guess the old gal has got plenty of dollars ; " and so on. After a sojourn of some length at Washington, I took my departure for Pittsburg, going by way of Harrisburg. The scenery along the Susquehanna River is delightful. On the passage from Harrisburg to Pittsburg, especially in the vicinity of the former, by the Pennsylvania Railroad, the picture that meets your eye of wooded mountain sides, sparkling waters, one while moving onward and again so lake-like, little islands here and there so very verdant, such sights as only come to us in pleasing dreams, made me more than once imagine that I had revisited our own Killarney's Lakes. Not far, too, from Harrisburg is the Cumberland Valley, where was fought the famous battle of Gettysburg, one of the most momentous during the Civil War, and fraught with the greatest slaughter. At various places in the country there are panoramic views of this bloodiest of contests, and the scenes are very real, the artists having done their work in a masterly style. At Chicago 1 spent hours gazing upon a representation of the conflict. The figures wer"^ very natural and life-like, and I seemed to feel as if an actual spectator. Nearer to Pittsburg is the Horse-Shoe Curve, which the Railroad Company guides describe as the greatest 124 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. of modern wonders. It is, without doubt, a remark- able piece of engineering, the cars proceeding on their way along the foot of a precipitous mountain, and making a tremendous sweep, with fearful chasms on both sides, in a perfect circle, until a point is reached at which you are exactly parallel with that at which you began the circuit. After all, this is not so very stranGfe. Don't mathematicians tell us that a circle is made up of straight lines ? On you go through tunnel and cavern, and overhanging precipice, and rivulet, and past trim cottages here and there in the plains, which plains seemed to have been formed there by accident, rushing on by mills, and mines, and fur- naces, until you reach the ill-fated Johnstown. This town was destroyed a few years ago by the overflow- ing of a badly-constructed dam, and several thousand lives were lost. It is at present a great resort for visitors. You are soon in the natural gas country, and pass village after village lighted by this means, and now and then descry blazing fires belching from the ground, as if the country of volcanoes, being, of course, supported by this same natural gas. At length Pittsburg is reached. I had been told again and again how beautiful was Pittsburg, and assured if I failed to pay that city a visit my tour should be wofully incomplete. All through I did prett / much as I was told, and why should the present case be an exception ? I visited Pittsburg, and was wofully disappointed. To be a beautiful city it must be demolished, built anew, and purged of its glass works, steel works, iron works, and the rest which may be said to form a centre, around which the city buildings congregate. Everywhere COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. was smoke and gas without limit, and the dingy appearance of the city betokened as much. The people are perfectly satisfied with the existing state of things themselves, and why should fault-finding strangers disturb their peace of mind ? When I com- plained of gas I was told that gas was exceedingly nutritious. When I complained of smoke I was informed that smoke purified the air, and that in swampy districts it was impossible to live without it. When I complained of glass works, and iron works, and the noise of machinery, I was led to believe that the practical advantage of all this was highly comfort- ing each Saturday night. In fact, my arguments disappeared as by magic in the face of such over- whelming proofs. Nevertheless, I could not be pre- vented from forming my own private judgment, which is that Pittsburg is about the last city in the Union I could think of adopting as my home. It is said to be very wealthy, and, considering the great number of public works and the great circulation of money in consequence, it must be. In the suburbs there are some very beautiful private residences constructed mostly of wood, having, each, its tract of greensward always green by artificial watering, and flower beds, and shrubs ; and then the children at play, and parties at tennis in their loose, bright costumes, and street cars rushing past with their crowds of labourers, who merely glance at the games, and seemed to say the good folk might be better employed — these are among the sights of Pittsburg. The wooden houses are very comfortable, and when you find yourself quartered there you soon forget that you are in a wooden cage that may be burned to ashes in five minutes' notice. These li^ I 126 COLUMBIAN SKETCHE?. houses are painted in all the colours of the rainbow, and the same house often rejoices in four or more different tints. The Irish muster strong, and many of them are engaged in the iron and steel works, I had occasion to visit the works of Messrs. Carnegie & Co., and there I found some of my countrymen engaged in such duties as were unfit for human beings. In some instances they were completely naked from the loins, without even head-covering, and seemed bathed as in a Turkish bath. Quite a number of them collected to have a talk and learn how Home Rule was getting on, and, falteiing though they were from fatigue, there were many sprightly arrows of wit. During the inter- view several were cauqht with thirst, and took to satiating the same by copious supplies of water from large tin pitchers. Suddenly they appeared to chill, and soon the perspiration reappeared, and more, as if reinforced by the liquid, which must have rushed through the system as quicksilver. I don't envy the poor souls who must earn their bread at Messrs. Carnegie's. The whole process of iron and steel manufacturing was to mc as complicated as astronomy or the diffe- rential calculus. Everywhere the workers explained their portion, and everywhere they thought me capable of understanding ever}- detail. The thing was far dif- ferent, and 1 took my wa}' wearied with the grating sound of machinery, the gurgling of prodigious fires. the stifling gases, the blinding smoke, thanking Provi- dence that I was not under the necessity of earning dollars amidst such surroundings. COLUMBIAN SKETCHED 127 CHAPTER XV.— RELIGIOUS TOLERANXE UNDER THE STARS AND STRIPES! THERE is, alas! an associat'jn in the United States known as the A. P. A. This Society, it will be observed, ends where it begins, or, in other words, begins with A and ends there. Its patrons call it the American Protestant Association, and occasionally, for variety's sake, substitute Protective for Protestant, thus calling it the American Protective Association. Methinks, however, having carefully considered its workings and tenets, it is best called the American Profligate Anomaly. In Canada a society on the same pattern goes by the name of the P. P. A., which, when translated, means Protestant Protective Association. Wc are not surprised to find such an association in Canada, but that a society whose greatest attribute is sectarian hate should spring up in the States 's something for which we in this country, with our preconceived notions of American liberalism, are wholly unprepared. Yet this is the unhapp)- state of things, and not much wonder we should be filled with astonishment. How hard to think that that faith whose devoted children bled for the Republic, signing the Declaration of Independence and sealing it with their blood — and more, built up in no small measure by brain and energy a great country, whose progress and advance- ment are the wonder of the universe, should be subjected to a flood of virulent abuse and vilification, I!! T28 COLU:\IBIAN SKETCHES. and its adherents ree^arded as the covert enemies of the State, plotting to upturn the laws and institutions which they contributed at such sacrifices to establish ! This is the light in which the twelve million of Catholics in America are viewed in this nineteenth century by a notorious association known as the A.P.A. ! It is not the fault of the Constitution. Hear it for itself. " And whereas the enforcing of the con- science in matter of religion hath frequently fallen out to be of dangerous consc'iuence in those common- wealths where it has been practised, and for the more quiet and peaceable government of this province, and the better to preserve mutual love and unity among the inhabitants, no person within the province, pro- fessing to believe in Jesus Christ, shall be in anyway troubled, molested, or discountenanced for his or her religion, or in the free exercise thereof." Well said, Washington I but you had calculated without Mr. Charles D. P. Gibson, of Elizabethport, New Jersey. Hear him ! And, first, let me say, Mr. Gibson sells watches in New York, and, according to his own statement, keeps watch upon 40,000 A.P.A. men, in New Jersey, fully organised, and ready at any time to hunt down Catholics. Great, glorious, and free America ! "There is no room in this country for Roman Catholics," declares Mr. Gibson, " and the American Protective Association will soon demonstrate this. They will have to go elsewhere. They cannot exist much longer here or they will starve. They will find it impossible to get anything to do. I will not employ a Roman Catholic under any circumstances, and neither will any member of the A.P.A., unless we cannot COLUMBIAN SKFTCHES. 129 get a Protestant to do the required work. I proclaim that openly. I will not have one about me in my business. I will not have a Catholic servant girl any more than a Catholic clerk. Any man or woman who goes to the Roman Church and kneels to the priest is a bad, dangerous, infamous person. " The Catholics are beginning to feci our power, and the priests are. There are 6,200,000 members of the A. P. A. in this country. That was the total number up to last Saturday evening, from figures sent from all parts. Don't you think we are a power ? In poli- tics the Romanists have felt our hand even more severely than in business life. There is no Roman Catholic for whom I would vote, no matter what his qualifications were. I tell you that no Roman Catholic is fit to hold a public or private position while he yields ' < edience to the Pope. He does not feel any obligation to his fellow-men, if they are Protestants ; he does not feel any obligation to his country ; the fountain head of his belief and obedience is the for- eigner who is at the head of his Church. At his dic- tation he will do anything, commit any sin. " Look at General Meade. He should have been shot for the traitor he was, on the day after Gettys- burg. He deliberately did everything he could to throw the battle away to the Confederates. He was from Rome to help the Confederacy. He had at his side a Jesuit from whom he took his commands. That fact is susceptible of proof We know that in every Cathedral, in every Catholic rendezvous, these people are gathering arms. Any shrewd man can find out that for himself But we are not afraid of their arms. Let them arm all they want to, and il iNMr II!' I I30 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. drill. We won't interfere ; but if ever they show their hands and try violence, we'll wipe them out. We are not armed, but it would not take us half-an-hour to prepare ourselves. " We don't recognise any one parly. We work with anybody who will help us down with the Catholics. As soon as we elect a man every Catholic is turned out of the public emplo}^ We do not consider Catholicism a religion. It is simply a superstition fostered by the Roman Catholic Church to aggrandise itself, to build great Church structures, and organise a political machine that shall enable the Pope to control this country. A Catholic has no religion. We all kno^v what the Catholic Church fosters, what its convents are, and how corrupt it is. We are going to root them out. Then we'll look after some other classes that are dangerous to the Republic — after the Jews, for instance. We say America for Americans every time." 'Twould be interesting to learn what class Mr. Gibson regards as Americans, if he belongs to that class, and on what grounds. This much is certain, that his rcmarkS; along with being un-/\merican, are un-Christian. He makes statement after statement without adducing the smallest authorit\- or proof, and takes as conclusively proved and admitted on all sides, what no sane man who knows the first principles of Christianity could for a moment entertain. 'Tis hard to think such people sincere, and that there is such a state of medi.uval ignor- ance in these our days. I am greatly afraid there arc on earth mountebanks who clamour for fame, I should have said notoriety, at the expense of truth and right COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 13^ judgment, and greatly to the detriment of their neighbours. In reference to such 1 would say that the press seems to me to defeat its own purpose in parad- ing to the public such spirits and their pet foibles. Better relegate them to the dust whence they sprung, and treat them to quiet contempt, otherwise the object they most coveted shall be attained. I was about suggesting this course in reference to Mr. Gibson : but retirement and obscurity ill befit that gentleman, and I have better work for him. Mr. Gibson sells watches and is lost to fame — not so should he arrive with us. Whether as preacher on social reforms, lecturer on commonplace topics, actor, or in any public capacity of this sort, the author of the famous sayings just quoted is certain to secure attention and attract crowds of followers. Tlic only condition neces- sary for absolute success is a certificate of his identity. We have had in this country not long ago three months of civil war, during which the sayings and doings of the belligerents were blunt and off-handed enough for any taste. Happily, 'twas for the most part a war of words, but action was to follow on the smallest notice. A^ fortune had it there was no necessity for actual conflict, and the fierce, fiery orations, and all the machinations of war went to waste. The Pope and all his followers are still unmolested, notwithstanding the many threats at utter annihilation. But 'tis not impossible that we may at some date not far distant be treated to a some- what similar course, and advised of our own failings and that of our fathers for many generations, all for the greater peace of men and the stability of the Empire ; and in the meantime I would say to Ulster- 132 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. men to secure the services of Mr. Gibson. Since he makes such a stand beneath the Stars and Stripes, an atmosphere so uncongenial, what might he not accom- pHsh backed by so many brave men of Ulster, who have made up their minds, at the expense even of their h'ves, to preserve our great Empire from committing suicide. We have had a good deal of plain, blunt talk during the late civil war, but, if I am not grievously in error, Mr. Gibson, for his surroundings, has completely outdistanced anything on record, and his services in the next civil war in Ulster would be invaluable. Rut what are we to expect from the common herd when such a man as Bishop Coxe lends himself to an anti-Catholic party, and foments the fire of sectarian- ism. The Right Rev. A. Cleveland Coxe, as he signs himself, is Protestant Bishop of Western New York, and in a letter to th? Buffalo Express lately, assails the Pope and his sympathisers in language that would have done credit to our most furious zealots in the height of thei;- Ulsteria. Isn't Bishop Coxe supposed to represent a Master whose grand precept is love and fraternal charity and good-will among men? How well he has fulfilled this commission let the reading world decide. How, in the name of religion and justice, could Bishop Coxe or anyone with a shadow of conscience remaining, approve or encourage an association whose oath runs — " I do most solemnly promise and swear that I will use my influence to promote the interest of all Protestants everywhere in the world ; that I will not employ a Roman Catholic in any capacity if I can procure the services of a Protes- tant ; that I will not aid in building or in maintainine by any resources any Roman Catholic church or insti- COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. I 1 •> tution of their sect or creed whatsoever but will do all in my power to retard and break down the power of the Pope ; that I will not enter into an)- controversy with a Roman Catholic upon the subject of this order, nor will I enter into any agreement with a Roman Catholic to strike or create a disturbance whereby the Roman Catholic employes may undermine and sub- stitute the Protestants ; and that in all grievances 1 will seek only Protestants and counsel with them, to the exclusion of all Roman Catholics, and will not make known to them anything of any nature matured at such conferences ; that i will not countenance the nomination, in any caucuses or convention, of a Roman Catholic for any office in the gift of the American people, and that I will not vote for, nor counsel others to vote for, any Roman Catho- lics ; that I will endeavour at all times to place the political positions of this Government in the hands of Protestants. To all of which I do most solemnly prom.ise and swear, so help me God. Amen." fhis is charity ! This is love ! This is doing unto others as wc would have others to do unto us ! There ctre to be sure Protestants, lay and clerical, of broader views and sounder judgment, who scout the very name of A. P. Aism., as utterl)- un-American, not to say un-Christian. But isn't it sad to think that men of high social status should lend their influence and name to any secret combination for the purpose of harassing the.ir fellow men without investigating the pros and cons, and having fully made out their conclusions with regard to the rectitude of their course ? The vener- able Bishop of Western New York is too clearly one of this class. Here is a skit upon him and his I m lii r\ : 134 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. confreres, I have clipped from "Religious Tolerance," and which is peculiarly adapted to the case. " Once it happened that as a sweet and beauteous young maiden (God's Church) was passing along the highway, she noticed a particularly deep and nasty mud-puddle which the inhabitants of that place called * politics.' Thereupon the tender heart of the maiden was moved with pity for the passers-by, whose sight and nostrils were offended by the grievous thing. So she spake into herself, and said, ' Behold am I not fair and pure and beautiful ? Are not my garments clean aiid spotless ? Therefore, will I cast my- self into this puddle and purify it ? ' Thereupon, brothers Peters, Coxe, Shinn, Romer, &c., &c., threw her in. But when in the mire and rolled in it, the effect on the puddle was not perceptible, but oh ! the effect on the maiden." Let the A.P.A. churches, and Romer, Coxe, Shinn, Peters, &c., thoughtfully digest and pick out the moral, Yes ; this allegory covers most of the ground required, and let us hope the brothers will act on this advice and thence draw wisdom. Any society that cannot see the light is to be reprobated by all well meaning men ; and although this association and its workings are in the main known to the public, owing to the aggressive and outspoken speeches and letters of certain blustering members, there are good grounds for supposing its worst features have not yet been dis- covered. But it is enough for us to know that it is secret, that its members are bound by oath, and that their venom is concentrated on the Catholic Church, What are right-minded men to say of any society which binds itself on oath to oppress and persecute a COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 135 section of its fellows differing from it in religion, actu- ated all the while by mere suspicion or prejudice, and blinded thereby to all sense of justice. An\' associa- tion of the kind, whctlier Oddfellows, Freemasons, or the countless other so-called benevolent leagues, having even remotely in view the oppression of men, who refuse to accept certain opinions on certain things which should be left perfectly free to all, is highly reprehensible, and the individual who lends himself to such an association, be he prince or peasant, should be regarded as an unsafe and dangerous person. Can it be that the rulers of great countries are found at the head of such institutions ? If so there must be some- where very serious wrong, when 'tis necessary in order to secure influence and authority to have connection with .such associations, and I hardly think much con- fidence is to be attached to a ruler whose policy is shaped in darkness. 'Tis regrettable that the old spirit of know- nothingism which was productive of such evils so lately, should be again revived, and that anything in the shape of religious rancour, should get foothold in the States. .America boasts of being the pioneer of liberty, and especially freedom of conscience, and why not teach those charlatans and notoriety-seekers, whose conduct is calculated to seriously blacken the fair name of the country, a lesson. I was just con- templating the wonderful changes that had taken place for the last decade in America, with regard to religious tolerance, and wondering what Washington would have said to the whole, when there is a knock. 'Tis the postman, and I am handed a letter all the way from America. T open and read, "Office of the ll 136 COLUMBIAN SKLTCHES. ; ; I Converted Catholic, 60 Bible House, New York. Tracts for the Times. No. 2. Roman Catholicism, as delineated in the Roman Catholic Bible." The text is taken from the 17th chapter of the Apocalypse of St. John, and is made according to the ingenious author, to have clearly reference to the Pope and Catholicism. Let me quote from this printlet, so that Catholics may have the advantage of judging the strange notions entertained by outsiders on their faith. •' Whatever else the Church has neglected, she has certainly succeeded in embittering the Catholics against Protestants and their teaching in making him believe a lie, when she tells him that the host is Jesus Christ, and when she sends him to a priest to get forgiveness of sins, which he could get without a priest, if he only accepted Christ as his Saviour. It is no wonder that the ease of confession and the fHcih'*-- with which absolution is obtained, leads many Roman Catholics to think lightly of crime. Indeed, it is easier to get absolution for the most flagrant offences than for an error of mind regarding a la^v of the Church. A priest will give a murderer absolution, but he will not if he doubts the Infallibility of the Pope or the Imma- culate Conception ; and a marauder who would not hesitate to filch a shoulder of mutton would not on any consideration eat it on Friday. In this manner the laws of the Church are set above the command- ments of the ever-blessed God. Men can get pardon for the breach of the one, but never for the infringe- ment of the other. Such is the religion of Roman Catholics. I have now shown that Romanism is portrayed in the Roman Catholic Bible as a drunken harlot, guilty of unhallowed intercourse with the kings COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. of the earth. I have also shown that the doctrines of this false Church are injurious to her people. Human nature is a bad thing naturally, and Romanism does nf)t improve it. What remains now ? My Roman C^atholic friends, I have not wished to speak too strongly of }'our Church. I have only wished to make a plain and faithful comment on the Scripture. If I have misjudged her, I am ready to account for it to my Lord in the day of His appearing. If I have si)okcn as His word warrants, then woe, woe to all who continue to believe her doctrines, obey her laws, or refuse to renounce her errors." What a mass of contradiction and statements utterly devoid of authenticity ! What Catholic who knows the A B C of his religion will not regard this as the sheerest travesty on his faith? Can a man not remain a Catholic, and at the same time a useful member of society, and exemplary citizen ? Does not Catho- licity admit of the highest social culture, the highest education, justice in the highest degree, and respect for the rights of others, the highest precepts of fraternal charity and peace among men, full freedom of thought and action, everything in fine that can make a people great, prosperous, and contented ? Wh)', therefore, all this waste of breath about casting aside the bond- age of the Church and its superstitions ? Does not a Catholic believe and hope in Jesus Christ, and the adorable Persons of the Trinity, and can it be for a moment imagined that he who believes only in the all-saving power of faith and the Bible, shall be more acceptable than he who tells his beads, and fasts, and gives alms, provided the latter is sincere? Why then all this energy expended, and so many artifices K hM Ill •38 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. employed to resciiepoor,crringCatholics from idolatry? America should be the last country to rise up against Catholicity, for it spurned not its Declaration of Independence, and its members fought and bled therefor, and would again uphold it. And Catho- lics, too, fought, and bravely, for the Union. Now, when they have the pluck and energy to build great churches, which cost the State nothing, and endow their schools at their own expense, meanwhile paying" to support the public schools from which they derive no benefit, and, that the Pope, purely as a matter of ecclesiastical discipline and convenience, thinks well to have a representative at Washington, the cry is raised on all sides that Rome is set upon completely controlling the secular as well as the religious interests of the country, and hounding to death such as would dare oppose its progress. I do not attribute this out- cry to the Americans, but to a section of our own people who have "■one to America, and there fostered the religious bigotry so dear to them at home. I am glad to observe that they are rapidly rising above this narrow-mindedness. There are but twelve million Catholics in the United Spates, whereas the whole population is not less than sixty-six million, and there- fore I say the A.P.Aists must be the veriest cowards to clamour so loudly. 1 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 139 CHAPTER XVI.— THE BUSHMAN'S STORY. IN whatever sphere of life our lot may be cast, most of us have to contend and grapple with many difficulties. But there are times when all our joys or sorrows come together. Fortune smiles upon us, and that happiness which we experience beams forth in every look and word, diffusing itself to those around us, and infecting them with our cheerfulness. We see smiles on every face, no matter of our follies and indiscretions, our friendship coveted, and our opinions prized while we are welcomed to every fireside. For the nonce we are pleased, and allow ourselves to be trifled with, and flattery have its way, although there is a creeping terror that a tear shall be exacted for this joy. Withal we enter into its spirit and enjoy the sunshine, and for the time disposed to forget the struggles and trials that have been, cheat life of its cares, and baffle ourselves into forgetfulness ■of the dangers and anxieties that may yet be. We looked forward to this in our darkest hour. 'Twas a beacon to which we were battling, when life's troubled Avaves were seething and bubbling around us, and we vainly fancied that on reaching this haven, we should have attained the summit of human felicity. Alas ! for the vanity of our wishes, we have been disap- pointed. 'Tis pleasant, notwithstanding, to look back to the dangers we have run, and the artifices employed to cheer the drooping heart ; to think our efforts have been crowned with success, and that our desires have III jlli'lii 11! Hill! 'J 140 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. : been realised. When the angry clouds have disap- peared, and the troubled waters regain their place, leaving us unmolested to enjoy that fruit for which through weal and woe we strained every energy, 'tis pleasant and comforting, but not everything wc anti- cipated. We quite forgot that unhappiness exists not only in difficulties, but also because there are no difficulties to be contended with ; that the rich as well as the poor are its victims, and may be found in the palace of kings, as well as in the huts of the lowliest of their subjects. No position nor rank, nor age, nor sex, is proof against its inroads. But there is another aspect. We have been con- sidering the case, where life's rugged path is crossed in safety, and where we find after a long and difficult journey a garden beautifully ordered, in which wc can rest after our many fatigues and regale ourselves with its honey-scented flowers. I fear we have not con- sidered sufficiently the various pitfalls and precipices with which it was indented. The storms o'er, we arc rather inclined to forget them. When the summer comes, and the fields teem with rich luxuriance, and the trees donned in their best, with here and there a warbler of the grove tuning its soft notes, vary the beauty of the surrounding landscape ; when the cold, piercing winds have calmed into fragrant, balmy air ; when the threatening storms have disappeared, and there is not a ripple on the blue vault of heaven, 'tis difficult to recall the beating rains, the piercing cold, the parched fields, the hushed songsters, and the general dreariness of the winter. Some effort is need- ful, and we care not to use that effort. In this way 'tis difficult to realise the perils that I^n COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 141 liavc passed ; nor care we to summon the ghost of adversity. Albeit, we had our darkened hours, when our best meaning friends with the magic of instinct shrank from our path, fearing to intrude on our humours and meet a speedy repulse ; when smiles merged into frowns, and our judgment ceased to be valued. We were no longer the centre of a happy family circle nor the boast of admiring patrons. The stream turning, we found ourselves deserted. The sliarp points of disregard were hurled upon us, more bitter than the poisoned barb of an arrow, and worse, they were left to fester and rankle in the wound, for no one would plead for us, no one would lighten the burden of grief that was pressing us, no one quell the torrent of reproach bursting o'er us, nor raise the voice to palliate our failings. They feared to breast the storm, especially as no return could accrue from their pains, for we were a wreck, a broken reed, and who would lean upon us ? Are we then to remain in constant dread of this hapless fate ? Are we to live in perpetual anticipa- tion of evil fortune ? Are we to regard a frown or an omission of courtesv as an ill-starred omen of future suffering ? \o ; let us guard against such fears, for sorrow has its own consolation, and on the darkest ni^ht there is a glimmering .star. We must not regard the world as a desert peopled only with shadows incapable of gratitude, incapable of affection, and all the higher emotions of the heart. The mother will sit by the bedside of her dying child. She will watch every movement and twitching of the h'ps. She feels every pang and pain with that acutc- ness of which only a mother is capable. She sacrifices ,1 i 142 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. time, sleep, and health to the reiL^ning deity of her heart, and, should it pass away, 'twere well if her reason passes not with it. Shall we stand by an eye- witness of all this, and say the world is but a wilder- ness, bearing only briars and thorns, with naught but selfishness and ingratitude, and wholly void of love or feeling ? A little farther and see the fond father by the bed- side of his only daughter. He watches the hectic appearing and disappearing from her fair form. Every symptom, every wavering word, every sigh is noted with the most anxious concern. Tfe stands by her to the last, and little though this may be he has neither rest nor consolation elsewhere. When the pulse grows feeble and the lips pallid, and there are evident signs of a speedy dissolution, he endeavours to be reconciled, but the essay is fruitless. He bears her in his arms, and supports the drooping head, for she is his child, his hope, his comfort, his all, and cannot imagine the cold earth is to separate him from her in whom he centred every happiness. If we arc ever disposed to exclaim against Divine Providence, and ask heaven to withhold its chastening hand — if a sight trul}' heavenly is ever to be witnessed by us mortals here below — surely 'tis now. Her spirit fled,, and her remains consigned to the grave, he returns to his home and employment, but will not be comforted. She is never to be forgotten. She hovers before his mind in the day and haunts him in his dreams. He remembers her, not as the pale emaciated victim of disease, but she rises before him in the flush and prime of womanhood, his boast and his pride, and, oh ! can it be she has withered as the grass of the field ? 'Tis w COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 143 too much for him in his old age. 'Tis too deep a wound to be healed, and soon he sinks into the grave beside her without whom life itself were a torture. Not to speak of that love which has been the theme of poetry and fiction from the beginning, there is here, forsooth, a lesson for the sceptic. There is here a soothing lesson for him whose heart has been con- gealed by a series of crosses and trials, and in whom every kindly feeling has been extinguished. He will Icnrn that there is a filament, though finer than the finest gossamer, that is never broken, which shrinks not in danger, in sickness, nor in want, as firm as adamant, as unbending as the rock against which the surging tide lashes in vain, which neither time nor dis- tance can weaken, and this is pure affection. 'Twerc too bad, indeed, if this world were a waste and all its smiles enamelled frowns ; that man, so visibly stamped with heaven's image, should be capable of no higher instinct than self-interest ; that friends should be re- garded only as enemies at peace ; and while we shook the one hand in fellowship and friendship we should dread from the other the steel-barbed arrow of scorn and neglect. These are base sordid minds, it must be owned, ungrateful for benefits and forgetful of favours, too prone to regard the welfare of others as secondary, and destitute of all the finer feelings. Nor is this strange in a world of so many varied dispositions and so many different pursuits. From particular instances, however, we arc not to draw general conclusions, and perhaps we should be prepared to attach some blame to ourselves. As man is a social being, and seeks a crowd, so he is willing to give and accept sympathy. He deems it his duty to succour the distressed, but m i t 144 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. not to sacrifice all his happiness thereto. So frail is he, and so liable to despondency, that even in success he must be supported, and, conscious of this, he labours for and thinks himself entitled to a return of sympathy from his protege. Are we then to expect unfailing help from a crumblini^ pillar or unbroken sunshine from a cloudy sky ? \Vc should try and bear our own woes and disappointments, nor be too ready to hoist the flag of distress, and, above all, be slow to attribute baseness or ingratitude to the world justly chargeable to our own imprudence and want of foresight. I was led into this train of reflection by an incident on board the "Passport" sailing down the River St. Lawrence. The morning was charming, and seemed all the more by contrast, as the night preceding had been so stormy. 'Twas such a morning as fellow- travellers enjoy the sunshine, and the breeze, and a talk together. My next neighbour on the saloon "deck opened the conversation, and questioned me as to my sphere, whence I came, whither I was going, and what I thought of the country. I answered all his queries in a manner that gave him satisfaction, and soon he entered, without any pressure on my part, into a long account of himself, of which the fol- lowing is the substance : — " I am now forty-tive years •old, and have just completed my twentj'-fifth year ;in the United States. During that period, I verily believe, I have had more ups and downs than any man in the whole world. At the invitation of an aged relative, I came to America, and took up my abode at his country home in Idaho. I was then little more than a boy, but, notwithstanding, soon began to realise I was going to be first used and next abused. COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 145 Promises of the inheritance of a considerable fortune had been held out to me. However, I learned in a short time the conditions were too revolting to be borne w ith, and the fulfilment at best very uncertain. The tyranny of relatives is, above all, the least bearable, so I took my departure, not without rating in no com- plimentary terms the patrons who had brought me thither and no\v left all my hopes blasted. 1 sum- moned what courage I could, therefore, and went far- ther West, settling fift\' miles from the nearest village, and twenty from the next settler. In fact, on one side I have no knowledge where or who was my neighbour, I took some strange fancy to the place, as it bore in my mind a close resemblance to the clear little spot where I was born in the old country. Here I was at one and the same carpenter, cook, milkman, farmer, together with a host of other occupations. The work- ing days were pleasant enough, but the Sabbaths dreary, and the nights unbearable. In course of time I lost the record of the days, and months, and even years. I seldom visited the village, and still less frequently the adjoining settlers, who, I could see, were distrustful of strangers. During many weary years I had but one visitor — an Irishman, who had tramped from the Pacific Coast, and was on the road to Chicago. His tales of adventure, in some respects, outstripped my own, and, as I had long been led to believe my career had )-et to find a parallel, the spirit of jealousy was at once aroused in me. This sensa- tion I must add was but momentary. " M}' cabin was of the plainest, constructed of wood, having mainly for its architect, builder, and glazier its occupant. Here I spent many a lonely hour, with no Ml I' 'It 146 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. other friend and comforter than my faithful dog;, and even he at times seemed to rcc^ard this sort of life monotonous. At night I sang some favourite airs^ and read and read again my little stocks of poems, and prose, and stories. One song always stirred me, ' The bonnic, bonnic banks of Loch Lomond,' for by that lake I wandered as a boy, and all those gladsome thoughts that inspired me then came to me anew, and cheered me in the gloom. I knew something of the violin and pipes, and often played some cherished Scottish airs. I had always wherewith to take up the attention by day, whether farming, shooting, fishing, hunting, but as the nights advanced my condition be- came intolerably dreary. Not the least important of my bed-cham.bcr outfit were my revolver and rifle, which were always held in readiness, and often I awoke with a thrilling sensation that the robbers were upon me, or in deadly conflict with wolves, bears, and snakes. I had, however, no encounters of this kind specially deserving of notice, except an accidental meeting with a bear or snake, and, to be just, neither was very aggressive, but, on the contrary, much pre- ferred to keep out of the road. In this way the time passed, and I was not becoming a whit more recon- ciled to my position. I should have stated that my object was to establish a right to this property, which I hoped would soon become of great value, owing to the expected rush of immigrants. When I had finally decided to take my departure, and abandon the enterprise, a colony of Germans migrated to the neighbourhood, and, as I could have nothing in common with the new settlers, I gladly accepted their offer, and bade adieu to my hermitage. Well nigh ( COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 147 independent, I now sought the first scenes of my pain- ful experiences in the country. My old friends were too glad to receive me, for I found the estate had be- come considerably encumbered, and entreated me to take upon myself all their responsibilities. I did so, although I had no right, but not without sure pledges of the long promised patrimony. From then I con- tinued to take absolute control, until death after death, the latest being an imbecile daughter, left me the sole possessor. I shortly sold out, have since resided in various cities of the Union, own many interests in business concerns, got married, and have now the most interesting family, and most charming wife in the world." At this stage the bell rang for dinner, and, as he took his departure, I remarked, " I observe you have, too, become thoroughly Americanised." " Yes," he rejoined, " America is, and always shall be my home." He did not appear to understand the significance of my remark, but the gentleman and lady hard by did. During our conversation the gentleman inces- santly puffed his havannah, apparently perfectly abstracted, while the lady industriously kept reading her periodicals and pamphlets, occasionally raising her eyes in our direction, and seemingly thinking her- self unobserved. " You have had quite an interesting conversation," remarked the gentleman. " Yes," I said, " my friend appears to have had pretty rough handling." " Allow me to tell you, as one perfectly cognisant of all the facts, and wholly disinterested," he continued, " there is -absolutely no foundation for the charges :jl 'i ■' 148 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. which he so unquahTicdl)' makes ac^ainst his relatives. Far differently, it has always been held that he treated them with c^reat want of consideration, if not absolute harshness, and 'tis even said that death after death was the result of a broken heart." " Yes," observed the lady, " the treatment they received from him created an extraordinary feclini^ in the nei<^hbourhood. 15ut it has ever been my ex- perience that those who complain arc the very indivi- duals to whom it is generally unsafe to entrust power. In fact, persons in power have no idea of the dreadful punishment of which they are so often unwittingly the cause." I COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 149 CHAPTER XVII.-JONATHAN AT HOME. T UST another city, and then for the VVorld's Fair. I In crossing the Atlantic I formed the acquaint- ance of a priest, who was just returning to his home at Cincinnati after a six years' sojourn in a lielgiau University, where he had completed his studies. He could not have been much over twenty-three, and must have left home a mere boy. VVe became very good friends, witli the result that I received an invita- tion to become his guest for some portion of my tour. Cincinnati was not on my original programme, and I don't think it cost me a second thought since 1 left school. Considering the cordial invitation I received, I at length determined to avail myself of his hospi- tality, especially as I hoped to gain a good deal of information about the city in a comparatively short time, as well as of the country generally. The recep tion was everything that could be desired, and my stay was most enjoyable. Two weeks had just elapsed since we parted. lie was then in great anxiety to see his friends, who, as I afterwards learned, were as anxious to see him. Not much time, however, was given to him to this end, for I found on my arrival he had been appointed assiitant at one of the churches in the city a week before, and had preached thrice. Even the go-a-headism finds its way into the Church. I did not, therefore, find him at the given address, but was, notwithstanding, received there with much favour. The mother of my good friend it appeared had been apprised of my coming. f^i' i\ it 150 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. and as I had been acceptable with him, no further re- commendation seemed necessary. She was a widowed lady of Irish descent, and was as proud as any Irish mother to have a priest in the family. She became extremely voluble on the first meeting with her son after such a lengthened absence, and clearly wished to keep talking on the subject. It was utterly impossible for some time to get edging in a word at all, and I was at length obliged to leave her the monopoly. Her description of the great change that had come upon him in such a short time, as well as the change effected in his general bearing and temperament, was particularly dramatic. At first she was unwilling to acknowledge him, thinking such a change an impos- sibility. S' J had known the steamer by which he was to set sail, but he had arranged to send a message on reaching New York, and had not, so this was circumstantial evidence against him. At last she recognised him through his voice. Descriptive parti- culars here arc a little bit touching. 'Tis a pretty little scene between an affectionate mother and a dutiful son, where absence had helped to strengthen duty and affection. I cannot afford to trespass on the sacredness of the occasion, so let me pass on. I afterwards called upon him according to directions at his new charge, where a most cordial reception awaited me. Well, when the Americans undertake to shake hands they mean it. It is not, as so often happens with the grand folk hereabouts, one formal shake and there the matter drop.s. No ; Jonathan takes you by the hand and makes you vibrate to such an extent that you are disposed to cry aloud, '• Enough, enough ; for mercy s sake, enough ! " This COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 151 was the treatment awaited me, and I found it rather pleasant. If shaking of hands means friendship, why not dispense with formality ? Formality is not friend- ship ; otherwise, as was the case with the Italians not so long ago, try and get rid of the process entirely. After the preliminaries I was led forth to explore the beauties of the city, and was meanwhile presented to quite a number of friends and relatives. Much to my chagrin, I passed for an American. There are few Irish at Cincinnati ; the great majority of the people are Germans, and many of the newspapers are in German. Everywhere advertisements and placards in German confront you. They are not, therefore, much accustomed to the Irish, but see a good deal of them now and then in the press and periodicals, with, of course, the usual colouring. Every Irishman in their estimation should have a long drawl, requiring about twenty minutes to pronounce the words of the Lord's Prayer, and at the same time a curious knack of doing everything wrong. I did not come up to the ideal, and had the advantage, my friend good- humouredly keeping the secret, at times of hearing what manner of man the ideal wns. The particulars were highly flavoured, and so comical that several times I was forced, in spite of all efforts, to lose my balance. In more serious moods such attacks com- pletely nettled me, and I could not help thinking how unreasonable it was that the inhabitants of a country but a few centuries old, themselves merely transplants, should make such uncalled-for raids on a good old race that had tasted the fruits of civilization and learning long before America was dreamt of, and produced the greatest scholars, the greatest poets, the 152 COLUMBIAN SIvETCIiF-S. greatest generals, and the greatest statesmen of the world. There is not a known branch in which Ire- land's sons and daughters have not excelled, l^ut as I was out for amusement and information it would by no means pay to lose tem[)er, and thus everything passed pleasantl)-. iM>' reverend host enjoyed the thing immensely, and doubtless, when he afterwards returned to make out accounts, there must have been many heart-sores. Cincinnati looks much like our own cities, the streets being not so wide as those of other American cities, and about the business and central piwl looks very much like the thoroughfares in Manchester. In this portion the houses are four storeys in height, and sometimes five, solidly built ofbrowtn'sh freestone, and the shop winouws are very attractive. Across the canal, which they have designated the " Rhine," the (jermans alone exist, and some of them do not attempt a single English word. Here everything is got up after Gorman methods, which arc not the worst, and, judging of what I have seen of the Germans here and there, they must be a great and enterprising people. l:?eautifully slo[)ing hills environ the city, upon which arc costl)' residences, mostly of blue limestone, with extensive and tastefull)- adorned grounds. Cincimiali is built on the banks of the River Ohio, and is desi^- nated the ' Queen of the West," Here poets seemed to have found subject matter for verse. I remember two lines of a long poem on the subject, wliich run — - '* The Queen of the West, in her garlands drest, On the banks of the beautiful River." It is not the " Queen of the West" by population, liaving merely 300,000 people, but one reason why it COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 153 is called the " Queen of the West " is that it is about the oldest Western city. The folk elsewhere speak of them as being very fast livers. This much, however, can be said of the American cities —if there is vice it must keep indoors and dare not parade itself on the streets. There is hardly anything objectionable to be met with in public, even in the worst cities of the Union. In general they are anxious to be thought an upright and moral people, and the law points to this. The authorities at the Fair grounds jealously guarded the introduction of anything that might he offensive to even the most fastidious, and several times swept off dramatic representations. It could not be wondered at if there existed considerable vice in a country that is constantly receiving foreigners of all tendencies, but it is well that such a spirit exists. Robberies, however, arc not unfrequent, and murders and lynching in the face of day and before the public gaze. Your friends will always inform you in every city that there are certain portions that must be avoided, and that individuals suspected of dollars ore never safe thereabouts. Everywhere dollars appeared to be more secure in the safes of the bankers, except for financial collapses, than in the possession of the owner. Nor is this strange, although not the less excusable, in a country overrun by speculators and money seekers, who have rushed thither from every clime with Utopian ideas of accumulating vast wealth, and returning home independent in a few years. It is encouraging to note that the l?.ws uphold morality and honesty, and the general tendency of residents and natives is to strengthen the laws. The story runs that women here and there, who are sticklers for 154 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. decorum and cfood order on the streets, have occa- sionally organised themselves into bands and swept without mercy thence anything that appeared to them savouring of impropriety. Might not tlicir sisters iti Britain gather courage from their example, and effect some reform in English cities, whose streets are from nightfall a disgrace to civilisation ? Methinks thcv would be thus better employed than wasting time and postage stamps in forwarding tracts and silly leaflets all over to procure conversions. Why form chimerical schemes, never to be realised, when so much is to be accomplished at our own doors? If conversion renders no better service than it has afforded to tlie christianised at home, then in the name of rest let it pass. The country outside the city looks fertile, and at places luxuriant. Nowhere are the fields so green as ours, and the grass blades arc not so thickl\'sct. This is owing, doubtless, to the great drought, for there is luxuriance in great perfection wherever there is suffi- cient artificial watering. It must not be forgotten that all sorts of climates are to be found in America, but generally there are very sudden changes from heat to cold, from extreme drought to regular downpours of rain, Indian corn, which is always designated corn without any qualifier, is one of the great products of the soil. Out of this more dishes are formed than I could think of for some considerable time. I'ields of great stalks like sugar canes, ending in large cobs, beset with grain, are to be met with everywhere, l^otatoes, too, with shrivelled and burnt up stenis, are now and then to be seen, and tomatoes so very red and rich, and squashes — what huge unwieldy things they arc — COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. :5D and water melons without limit. In the South the products are cotton, fruit, and sugar-cane. Some of the vegetables that go to enrich America might thrive with us. Is not the potato an American importation ? Under the guidance of my reverend friend I had in a short time seen a great deal of the " Queen of the West," and gleaned much information of the country and people. Nothing was sought to be concealed from me, while at the same time I was presented to most intimate relatives and friends, and partook of their hospitality, being made to feel perfectly at home. I have found commonly that the best Americans are not good society people, and often burst into slang and doubtful terms. They clearly feel at a discount in the presence of Europeans of education and distinction, and are quite willing to admit of their superiority. I^'or my own part I could not lay much claim to either, but had sufficient opportunities, notwithstanding, of forming this conclusion ; and the English of eminence seem to them specially worthy of imitation. Their servants complain that there is no putting up with them once they return from their European tour, with all their new fashions, of late dinners, and the rest. They affect to despise our titles and personages, and at the same time their daughters arc crazed to get married to a lord or a count, or some such mortal as has a family crest, so as to be sharers in the honours. Except for an occasional digression, by way of slang, the people of fashion speak the English language very accurately, and with an accent that rests midway between that of the educated people of London and Dublin. If they do not catch what you .said they inquire, "What did you say?" Some time this is i ! 156 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. .shortened to " What my ? " They never make use of •' Beg pardon." That is English, you knoiu. If they stumble against you, or do some similar ii.jury, they go so far as to say " Excuse me." " Beg ^rardon " to them sounds the language of a criminal. When you make some statement to which they cannot agree they inform you of their disagreement, and point out the better way. The middle and lower classes flatly contradict you. In this case the refined English prefer to let the matter drop, and change the subject. 'Tis better not to carry the genteel too far ; it becomes at length monotonous and tiresome. In the face of such generous and open-hearted hospitality as was accorded to me so very generally, I was quite prepared to overlook little faults in etiquette — faults I should say from our standpoint — and think American ways equal to ours or superior. Many a time, as well as in the present instance, ! found myself seated at a table in a family of rosy boys and pale girls, presided over by a cheerful father or mother, who made things so comfortable for me that I could not for a moment regard myself as an intruder. This is wonderfully enjoyable, even though everything does not come u[) to strained standards. Such standards cease to attain the object of their institution as soon as they begin to make people feel on edge. In Cinciimati I chanced upon a groove where all formality was dispensed with, and things went on beautifully in its absence. I\Iy friend had some sjjecial facility for making you feel at home — was well educated, spoke French and German fluently, having preached in both, and also Italian, and was, on the whole, very promising. For the few very pleasant days spent there I am entirely indebted w COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 157 to his kindness and generosity. My time was limited, and I was obliged to take my leave, with many pleasing remembrances of the city and people, it only remained to create new friendships and visit other scenes. 158 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. •)^-T-% CHAPTER XVIII.-CHICAGO, WAS a beautiful evening in September, breezy and healthful. By railway time 'twas ten ; and soon we descry in the distance a beautiful circlet of dazzling lights. Nobody can explain the pheno- menon, and the conductor is sought. "We are at once informed that this is the wonderful Ferris Wheel in the Fair Grounds, illuminated by electricity, and that Chicago is right at hand. Not until after considerable time, however, do we behold the lights of the great city, scattered over a vast area of country, and seem- ingly endless. We are come at length to Chicago, the city of wonders, the city that rose like the phoenix from its own ashes in a day, the city of the great Columbian Exhibition, that stirred the world, and brought together the intelligence and resources of the universe, the city about which the press daily teemed with some new and startling sensation, and on which the eyes of all the world are rivetted. The first impressions of Chicago arc not to be easily forgotten. And as to the Fair, 1 approach it with much diffidence, feeling quite inadequate to do the subject justice. I may state that I have visited several such exhibitions, including the last two in Paris, and I am, therefore, in a better position to speak than most people. But the World's Fair has completely outdis- tanced them all. I caught up here and there as I went some smart terms, the real significance of which I am unable to propound to the present day ; but of COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 159 what service arc they to mc ? Adjectives alone can help me, and superlatives if possible. Meanwhile let nic rest at the Lcland Hotel, and rhen take a stroll through the city and gather breath. Chicago is built on Lake Michigan, one of the Icirgest of the American lakes, and i'?, in consequence, very healthful. No matter how much the heat in day-time, there is a pleasant breeze during the night, which favours sleep, and thus the dollar- seekers go forth each morning with renewed vigour. The Chicago folk arc the most selfish I have anywhere met, and the rudest. A civil answer from one of them is a rarity, and whenever you are treated to this rarity you turn round in amazement, and fancy there must be something wrong. Even the public officers answer your queries by " Yes " and " No," and seem awfully distressed while under the operation. Every- body seems to regard his fellow with suspicion, and the record of crime is appalling. Each day the papers announced some thrilling event sufficient to crush the heart of the bravest. During my stay a hotel outside the Fair grounds was burned into dust, and seven individuals perished ; the cases of suicide were end- less ; a gentleman shot his lady in a fit of jealousy ; an Englishman of title lost his daughter, and it was found she had eloped with a chair-pusher at the Exhibition, and here the Press became sensational ; a gentleman and lady came to lodgings hard by ; they gave their names as Mr. and Mrs. So-and-so ; some strange conduct was observable in the gentleman, and at mid- night a wild shriek was heard, which is soon followed by the report of firearms ; again and again the report was heardj and investigation disclosed the dreadful Hi ' I I f i6o COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. result. The lady lay swcItcriiiQ' in her blood, with several bullet wounds, and by her side her brutal murderer. He was not yet quite dead, and from his statement he had just ended his own existence, beini^f unable to bear the thoui^ht of having to undergo a trial and all its painful accompaniments. A terrible revelation came to light. He was not the lady's husband, but had eloped with her ; and now her rela- tives, hearing of the shocking tragedy, have come upon the scene. His relatives, too, have visited the scene, and what is said and done by both is carefully noted and commented upon in the press. The news- papers give nearly half a column to the headings, and people read and hardly give the thing a second thought. Such things cease to have for them any novelty. There is pretty certain to be a murder, or railway accident, or daring robbery in next morn- ing's papers anew, and a repetition the morning after, ■and so on. People thus come to look upon them as common-place affairs, and necessary consequences con- sidering human depravity. Leaving a large margni in the way of allowances for the great inllux of visitors, and the fact that everything was topsy-turvy during the Fair, Chicago has the reputation of bein^ii^ -the worst city in the country. There is good reason Mto believe that this fame is well founded. The great ambition seems to be to outnumber New York in popu- lation and wealth and beauty, and, consequently, there is an everlasting call for more immigrants. The cry is for immigrants with money, so as to help on with some new enterprise, but by all means more popula- tion, with or without money. When the Chicago go- aheads have left New York behind, Paris is next to be COLUMHIAN SKETCHES. i6i emulated, and then nothing remains but to outstrip London. Ah'eady some boast that their eity is finer than Paris, out they had better see Paris first for them- selves, and draw comparisons afterwards. There arc, without doubt, two streets in Chicago that excel any- thing it has been my let to see — namely. State Street and Michigan Avenue, along with the beautiful build- ings that front the Lake and afford a delightful pro- menade. Nowhere have I seen such magnificent buildings and spacious streets. After about two miles the houses become plain enough, and towards the out- skirts wooden structures as elsewhere make their appearance. Very commonly the buildings are seven storeys high, but some of them attain a height beyond anything that even our fancy on this side could touch. I counted in one instance twenty-four storeys, and 'tis said that in more instances than one, the abnormal figure of thirty has been attained, 'Twas not my good luck to chance upon such structures, nor did 1 seek to make the discovery, thinking that I had seen the maximum possible, and believing anything more impossible. Impossible, however, seems to find little use in the " Windy City," and for the future we may regard the term thereabouts as defunct. There have certainly been marvellous feats accomplished there, and the people arc not by any means satisfied with past reputation, but are ambitiously striving hard for more. lUit, for their buildings, they are foolishly high, and must be very inconvenient. How can anyone climb aloft after a hard day's work to rest, and reach the high- est storey in safety ? Well, the secret is, there is sure to be an elevator for that purpose, and the .stairway is hardly ever called into use. Nevertheless, such fabulous li -» I 162 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. I heights seem to in extremely ludicrous, and mcthinks also to the more thinking Americans. The country is hirge enough, and there are millions of acres still prairie ; thcefore, it is unaccountable why Jonathan should hamper himself so badly. Jonathan takes his own view of the subject, and indeed we arc entitled to give him his own way in his own country. I le fought hard for his own way and won it, and 'twould be sadly unjust to strip him of his little whim as long as nobody is the sufferer and things go on so delightfully. In contemplating his greatness some day when his work is over, 'twill afford him joys untold to add the highest buildings in the world to his list of superla- tives. Latterly there is a great outcry against such unwieldy proportions, and the laws are expected to interfere. In the event of fire such abnormal heights arc found to be disastrous, and also productive of sunstroke. However, they are for the most part fire- proof, or at least have fire-escapes. The quantity of iron and steel used in the great buildings is enormous, and it is necessary to use a great deal of cement in preparing the foundation, water being found immedi- ately under t'le surface. Chicago has grown with wonderful rapidity. In 1830 there were but a dozen wooden shanties, with about a hundred people, composed of blacks, whites, and half-breds. For the first seven years its growth was remarkably slow, but afterwards there came a rush of speculators, who set to advertising and pro- claiming its many advantages for a great city, and all of a sudden immigrants flocked from every direction. The population has since been increasing at a rate before unheard of, so that now it is the second largest COLUMBIAN SKETCIII-S. 163 city in America, with over a million aiifl a half of people. In 1S71 a very destructive fire broke out in Chicago, burning whole districts, and rendering thousands homeless. Two hundred individuals per- ished in the flames. The (juarter in which tiie conflagration began was made up of wooden struc- tures, so that it was well nigh impossible to stop the progress of the flames, and so violent was their fury that they swept over the Chicago River, and spread thence in all directions, destroying warehouses, store- houses, lumber-yards and dwelling-houses. More than three scjuare miles of the city was burned into ashes, and for Feveral months afterwards some remnants of the buildings were still on fire. The enterprising inhabitants were by no means to be disheartened by this disaster, and at once set to work, so that in less than a year the city was rebuilt with much more substantial buildings, and hardly a trace of the disaster was noticeable. Some are inclined to thrown a network of mystery around the origin of the great fire, while others give the thing a romantic turn, and speak of it as a blessing in disguise. i\n old woman — so goes the tale— on a Sunday evening in October was milking in a cow-shed ; the cow kicked the kerosene lamp, and ECt fire to the structure ; the buildings in the immediate vicinity soon became a mass of flames, and thence the fire spread with unabated fury over the city the whole of Monday and part of Tuesday, leaving it tenantless and in ruins, all efforts to stem its progress being utterly unavailing. Another conflagration broke out in 1874, which was not by any means so destructive in its effects as the first. But nevertheless eighteen blocks in the ver\' centre of the ^■' 1 1^^ H I. 164 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. i\ •city wr.rc burned into ashes, some most valuable pro- perty being destroyed. At present there is no trace of those burnin<;s. There is yet plenty of food for flames, and I should not be surprised if speculators invent another fearful conflaijration within the next decade. Offorcit;ners, the Germans are in the majority ; the Irish come next, while the remainder is made out of immic^rants from the various countries of luwope. It 's liardly fair, therefore to attribute Chica[]^o faults to the Americans, who are roally in the minority. To whcm- j^oever attributable, there is vast room foi improvement morally and socially, and the day may not be far dis- tant when the folk will consider themselves nothinij the worse for helping a fellow-being in distress or gi'. ing a civil answer to a hona-fuic incjuirer. For the present we must wait until the dollar-fever is past ; it is just now at maximum teinperature, and the change is bound to come soon. And then for morality, let churchmen see to it. There are plenty of churches — no fewer than 300 — and, what is more, the theatre, which is made to serve very secular purposes all the M'cek, serves as an extemporised church on Sunda>'. About noon on Sunday I was walking in State Street, going by way of Lincoln Park, when a great rush of pco[)lc emerged from the theatre, for the time comi)letely blocking up the way. The first civil- looking person I met, I inquired if theatricals were in progress so early on a Sunday. " No,' he answered, *' all these people have been at religious service, and the theji^'c has been very kindly granted for the occa- sion, which is considered a great favour." This was th 1 first civil answer I received for an age, and did not COLUiMBIAN SKETCHES. 165 raise any cavil in conscciMcncc, but could not help thinking that the sacred and grotesque were brought into wonderfully close contact. Nor is it strange in a country where every man is as goud as his neighbour, and so much better, that the sacred and profane should be treated with only about the same respect. Isn't there a Mr. Stead who has wr'tten a book entitled " if Christ came to Chicago ! " hVom personal expe- rience, I am half inclined to think if so, He would be no better treated than an ordinary citizen. I was heartily wearied of the city and its ways, and strolled into the suburbs. Here, more from accident than otlierwise, I came upon the Union Stock Yards, where the vast live stock trade of the city is trans- acted. I shall not easily forget my visit thither, and should strongly recommend persons of weak consti- tution and nerve to cautiously avoid making the ex- pert. icnt. There are several slaughtering i)laces in the concern, which arc perfectly independent of each other, cmi>lo)ing each several hundred hands. A guide accompanies thevisitors, pointing out the various items of inte-'st enroi'tc. (3urs was a peculiarl)- ill-natured individual whose very look frightened you from asking ipiestions. Withal, [ ventured to ask v/hat was done in the case of animals that g(it maimed in the pens, having seen notably one whose huge horns were broken, and was bleeding profusely. " Well," lie .said, " we slaughter them right awa)'." " That's a poor recompense ior the accident," I hazarded. "What did you say ? *' he asked with a hideous scowl. I again tried to be humorous, and repeated the rc.nark. The observation was so ludicrous that he could not help grinning a horrid grin, but was too ill-natured to II 1 66 COLUMBIAN SKF.TCIIES. laugh. W'c were present at the slaughtering, hut minute details are too sickeiu'ng. I took particular interest in the cattle dei)artment, and watched the process pretty closely. They advanced from i)cn to pen in pairs until they reached tlic last, where the slaughterer stood over liicm on a stand for the pur- pose, and as soon as the\' faced in the proper direction he drew his heav}' mallet, striking them in the head, and the)' fell. Chains were at once fastened to their feet, and they were immediately strung up ; the butchers did the rest, there being several grades, one doing one portion and anc^ther another. The poor brutes seemed to ha\e some terrible presentiment <>! their fate, for they looked wildly around and shook violently. Viewing all the processes I was sorry I had not been bred and b^rn a vegetarian, and for weeks the dreadful odours of the ])lacc seemed to pursue me, and the ghosts of slaughtered steers, and innocent lambs, and hoggish pigs continued to haunt me and make my ver)- existence a burden. : COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 167 CHAPTER XIX. -THE WORLD'S FAH^. A T Ici^Ljth Jonathan from mere boasting conies to Jr\ realities, and undertakes to stir and astonish the world. With what success is a matter of opinion. ]5ut he himself seems satisfied with the result, and feels assured that he has accomjilishcd a feat unicjuc in the history of nations, and one which men throus^h all time shall seek to imitate, but in vain. On the other hantl, the older countries which were threat and respected before Columbus made his happy discovery, and which lo(jk upon voluil^ Columbia as a foolish youth who has run too hard and is bound tocrack across some day soon in conse{|uence, regard the World's Isair a gigantic failure, sociall)', morally, and financi- ally. N(M- could they be expected to shed other than crocodile tears at Jonathan's misforii.ne. It is pretty certain that the list of visitors did not by any means come up to expectations, and countries from which thousands were expected, hardly sent a single repre- sentative. This was certair.ly discoura 'ing, in the face of such immense expenditure and such ardent expectations. It is estimated that the total cost of the undertaking, from its beginning to the winding u\), was not less than five milli(jn pounds. Nearly a million pounds were s[)ent in laying out, and beauti- fying the grounds, and almost two millions in raising the magnificent buildings which contained the ex- hibits ; whereas, tlie aggregate of visitors amounted to less than twenty-two millions. To anybody, except an American, this result would have been overwhelmiiijf ; Iji {,. 1 68 COLUMBIAN SKinCIlLS. but there is hardl\- any fear tliat that cool, cal- culating individual was much disconcerted thereby. ' Fwas a speculation which was unsuccessful, and there the matter must drop. The chances arc his invest- ment was insured, and in both cases the outcome was to him practicall)- the same. Such a mishap is not under an)- circumstance to prevent him from enterinc; on a new speculation. No ; he must be a rich man or a begi^ar. lie rccoL^niscs ab>olutcl)' no medium, and it is this spirit of enterjM-i.se pcrvadini^ the highest with the lowest that affords such ready and constant em- ployment to the masses. Ever)body knows that the great Columbian Ex- position was instituted to commemorate the 400th anniversar)- of the discovery of America by Columbus. Where the exhibition was to be held was a matter of considerable uncertainty for a longtime, Chicago, New ^'ork, St. Louis, ami Washington having entcreil the field in keen competition for the much coveted honour. Victory at length rested with Chicago, and Congress ratified the .selection b\' granting a princely sum of money in furtherance of the enterprise. This, in addition to the generous contributions of the citizens of Chicago and those of the various States, was highly encouraging to the shareholders in their mammoth undertaking, and even though the whole did not attain the success they anticipated, they are to be largely commended for their pluck and energy. To undertake; to describe the World's Fair is to undertake a task of much difficultN'. The visitors generally complained that as there was so much to be seen the mind com[)letely lost itself, and they were ihuf obliged to take their way with no very clear idea COLUMBIAN SKl.TCllEJ 169 on .uiythiiiQ. In extent the space ()ccu[)iecl by the Kair iUiildin^fs exceeded by far anythin<^ of the kind the world had ever seen, beini;- at least twice that of the Paris I'Lxhibition of 1889, and contaiin'nj^ as it did no fewer than one thousand acres. The site was l)artl\' in W'ashin^^ton Park and parti}' in Jackson Park, but mainly on the latter, and the beautifully artistic way in which the grounds were laid out and decorated was in itself an exhibition well worth visiting at ^roat truuhle ami expense. In the tirst in- stance the walks were carefull\' [)lanned and tastefully kept ; the inlor\enniLf Ljrecnswanl here and there, beset with (lowcr-bcds, and shrubs, and rowan-tree, the grass carefully trimmed and watered, so ver\- verdant ; and notice-, in mtjre lanL;iiages than one so legil)le thai tlio:^e who ran even might read — " Keep off the grass ; loured and sparkled in the sunshine. The lakes themselves were fringed with water-lilies, and as the water gave i)lace to the i)ly of the oarsmen the rocks of m.m's creation, huge and mo-.s-co\ ereil, were seen to outstrii) nature; swan and otluT birds that love such scenes were there to com[)lete the delusion, ;ind seemed perfectl}- in- different to the great human tide that tossed to all4 M m I/O COI.UMniAN SKETCHES. fro on all .sides of them. Here, too, boats [)liccl frcic;htcd with plcasurc-scckcrs, gaily decked in brightest colours— some manned by stalwart hands, others propelled by electricity, and others again real gondolas with real gondoliers in their charmingly picturesque Venetian costumes. \W night the lakes surpassed all chv. in loveliness, reflecting as they did the mj'riad lights from above, while underneath electric jets shone, sometiincs faintl)' owing to the rip[)ling waters, but sufficienth' to reveal the sra-monsters artificially created and artificially propc^Ilcd. As I ga/.cd upon the fairy scene around me, more beautiful than tongue or pen can sketch. I could not help regard- ing the whole as some enchanting reverie too pleasing to last, and one from which I should soon awake to find 'twas all a drt\un. The structures were made of wood, in iinilation of public cit)' buildings, but immensely l.irger, with magnificent porticoes, and columns, ofte« ^urmount(•(l with a towering domr, u[)on which high into the air floated the Stars and Stripes of Anurica. ^L.iyof the States had s[)ecial biiildingi for their own exhibits, erected at their own cost, and likewise man)- foreign nations, whereas, there were several of t!ie dejjart- ments in common. The whole, gener.dl\- painted in white, presented the appearance of a city of marble, with streets somewhat irregularly laid out. Immedi- atcl}' fronting the I.ake were some of the fnu^st build- ings, and there ran a delightful promenade, which was at all times crowded with the visitors enio\'inLr the bracing breeze. Several bands in uniform at fixed distances served to lend additicjual charm, and at times crowds collected in their vicinity S(j as to w COI.UMl'.IAN Ir^KKTCIIF.S. 171 ^f rciulcr [lassaj^c thr()iiL;h tlic ^rcal thorouL^lifarc almost iinixjssiblc. The mass of human bciiii^fs of all t^-pcs and colours, from almost every country on the face of the earth, dressed in the cjuaint j)icturcs(iuc costumes of tiieir climes, in strant^c con- trast to the smart American outfit, doini^ their si_L,dit- seein.L;^ in parties of nines and tens, and often more ; ^rcjujis movin^^ hither and thither, in [perfect ^focjd lumiour with themselves and cverythin^^ ; sly policemen so careless and indifferent, yet carefully eyeing the individual movements ; chair-pushers, well niijh in harness, edj^in^^ slowly, very slowly, throuj^di the throii{^% and watchinj^ the minutes as they passed, meanwhiU' 'dcalini; out tales of direst falseho(Kl to their customers of the chair — the.^c were amon^j the sii;hts and realities of tlie Columbian ICxposition. In the interior of the buildinj^^s the exhibits were ar- rantjed with L;reat taste and skill, so that cverythin^^ worth seeing was on show, its name and the country it repiesented being ver)- legibly set forth. Often there were [jcrsons in cliarge whose jjusiness it was to give ilesirable information, or make sale of the articles, which, if they hap[)ened to be \ery special, were always retained to the close of the I"'air. The best idea ma}- be had of the interior l)y fanc)'ing, say, the drajjcry de- l)artment, an immense draper}' concern, with liere and there a section devoted to the best sami)les of the different countries, each article being ordered in the most attractive and [)le.ising fashion. And then the jewellery department nn'ght be regarded as a vast jeweller}' shop of bracelets, and necklaces, and brooches, and rings, ant'i precious stones, an(.l watches, and chains of all makes and materials — gold, silver, Hi (i ,-( f I \72 COI.UMlilAN .SKKTrnF:S. ;i!k1 nickel — each havini^ affixed its price, and the whole arranj;<;d in a style thai must have ()ccu[)ied much time, and the attention of the most iii^i^enious. The Fine Arts iUiilding might be looked U[)on as a preat picture L,^■lllery, with exhibits in paintin;^ and sculpture from the various countries of the world, in this department the Italians seemed to have an cas)- victory, and, as well .as I could judi^^e v/ithout heariui; the final decision, the British exhibit was next. I was ama/ed at the mimber and beauty of thj jjaiiU- ini^s that represented iCiv^land. As to the Amci-icans theirs, thoui^h many in number, fell far short in fmisli. Vou see this recjuires a great ileal of time, ami in America time is too jirccious to be wasted in frivolities, especiall)* as in such cases the remuneration is often inadeiiuate. .Scul|)ture was ver)' imperfec Iv represented, )-et all the figures put forward were masterpieces, and, though not absolute!)' immodest, were nude enough to be reprehensible. The (jermans and I'^rench each made a very distinguished exhibit, and mail)' other countries as well, which hereabouts we hard!)' regard as civilised. All things eonsideretl, this to me at least was the mo>l interesting cU^part- ment of the institution. The Tr.uispDrtatioii Huilding also created much attention, and wa^ always crowded. llere was a representation of the man)- melhoils of transport, beginning with the- most unci\ilised nations on to the UKjst advanced of our own times. Tlu' interior of this structure, vast in [jronorlioiis, reminded me of a great workshop or store ; ami here one might see ;md determine for himself how far the difficulty of si)ace could be overcom.^ b)- modern iiiventi(jn as compared with the methods of the past. In the COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. '7;. liiilway car section tlic Americans outdistanced all competitors, their carria;^cs. in comfort, beauty, ar.d finish, without doubt, attainin<^ the ideal. Many ( f the steamship companies had here Jacsiiiiiles of the several sections of their steamers, just as thc\' actua;l\' CN'isted, witli specimens also of real seamen in re.il tksh auvl blood, decked in their best sailor.s' suits. A mtHJel of the lost warshij) "Victoria" attracted much attention. It was tiv'rt)- feet loii|^% and cf)st .{'4,000. beitiL; considered the linest thini,^ of its kind over i)r >• duccd. Tlu' variety of niakrs of the many vehicle s. including; hearses, carriaL;es, cabs, hansoms, and racing; bu<;L;ies, w as completely bc\vilderinf,^ Bicycle ;. too, were en show after all maimer of fashions, and every other method of C()n\e)-ance b)- l.uul and sea, from darkest barbarism to bri^^htest ci\'i!isation. .\ ver)' interesting; ilepartment was the Wom.an's lUiildinj;. This institution was planned by a woman and entirely under \\e)men's (cutrol. In this section there was ne) other exhibit exce[)t that of women, and its e)l)ject was to show the advances maeic by the f^cntlc sex in the literary and hue arts, and se)mc of the more inii)e)rlant anel ne:cessar\- duties of life, from which the\- hael been hithe/rto sui)erstitiously ex- cmptetl. !))■ /Xct of Congress women we-re to havi shait; in tlu- administration of tiie I'air, anel in most e)l the buildinL;s a l)oard-ro(»m was s[>ecially set apart for their cemxenience'. lUil this portion was abse)lutel)' imeler their contre)!, anel, allhe)UL;h in man)- of the sec- tions they entereel into ce)mpetiti(»n with the men, and succcssfull)', this division was deve)teel se)lely tej them- selves. 1 he (Jueen of l''nL;land contributed no fewer than six water-coloiu' drawinj^s by liere)wn hand. All f ii'j 174 COf.UMHiAN SKKTCIir.S. sorts of ainuscinciit atul sports were affordecl to chil- dren, while the infants even were provided for. An amusin^c; incident, crcatinL,^ for the time no small sensation, happened in tiie nursery. IMotliers who came to view the slights found it impossible to bear tlieir babies in their arms, and move from exiiibit to exhibit, one wliile ascending '^rcixt flights of stairs and a^^^ain dcscendini;, all this for the .space of a whole da\'. Tlius [)rovision was made for their charge durinj.,^ their absence, and nurses undertook their responsibilit)' at a fixed ))rice, giving tliem some* i)lcdgc or other of the banjfain. Quite a crowd collccteil now and then to j)ronounce on the situation, and seemed to regard this, too, .1 part of the ICxposition, and, as the)- had come in anticipation of wonders, the very leas*^ some novel departure in the order of creation. When the throng was at its greatest a !ad\-, stout and rudd)-, who could not have been mere than one gener.Ui )n from German)', advaneeil, and, as a matter of course, claimed her child. The guardian firmly refused to surrender her charge, all [Jioofs of identification being regarded b)' her as utterly insufllcieiil, and informed licr tliat her bab\' was in the hamls of the next nur>e. This individual seemed to regard the entire with ama/cment, and remained silent, fearing to get in- volved in the strange complication. There stood the lad)' and her friends, while the excitement was ever growing with the crowd. I'ublic opinion was pretty gencrall)' divided, the men taking sides with tlie would-be mother, and the women with the nurse. As things appeared menacing, I could not help thinking what Solomon would have done under the circum- stances. Nobody seemed capable of deciding on the COLUMniAN SKETCHES. 175 likely oiilcomc of events, ;iiui matters were rai)itil\- bccomiii^f more complic.itecl, wlieii of a sudden ;i second claimant came rushini; excitedly through the crowd, api)arently thinking that something dreadful had taken place, and breathless demanded her bab)-. Nurse No. 2, without further ceremony, handed over her charge, aiul the difficult problem was solved. There was a striking siinilarit)' in the molher>, which undoubtedl)' led to all tlu- confusion. Nursi; Xo. 1 was com[)letely dund)f()unded,but it nnl)' remained to deliver the infant 10 the very anxious ami outraged mother, \\Mic:h she did much abashed, and forthwith disappeared into sjjacc. The immense thioiig -'.e- parted crestf illen, feeling disappcjinted that an inci- dent which i)romised so much interest and amusement sh(Hild end so flatly and abi u[)tl)-. Of all, no section created so much general interest as the Mitlwa)' Plaisance. Thi> portion covered about eighty acres, anht together also friends and relatives from the most distant parts, some ot whom never expected to meet on this side of eternity. A novel meeting of this sort was daily taking place, and in many instances the press managed to get the particulars, and I may venture to state that in no case did the pleasing incident lose in the telling. In instances friends met who had been for years imploring the Divine forgive- ness on each other's departed souls. The orisons had ascended, let us hope, as sweetest fragrance to heaven, but the evidences were too clear that the souls were still very much on earth. I have seen several such unexpected encounters, and always the first sensation was one of the most unaccountable confusion, which was soon followed by the most uncontrollable feeling of delight. Mine had not all the qualities of a great sensation, but was, notwithstanding, a very agreeable surprise, and the confusion experienced on both sides, when we came to comoare notes, afforded much laughter. In company with the old friends and the new, I began further explorations in the Midway Plaisancc ; and every new section seemed to reveal something more extraordinary than the last. The representa- tives of the different districts of Africa attracted great if II 'it I T78 COLUMBIAN SKETCH i:S. attention, owing to their uncivilisL'd c >nditIon. They were from different parts of the country, and were in most cases ahnost nailed, except for a covering round the middle. At home some of them were accustomed to go entirely naked, but th it could not be permitted in America, being strictly against the law of the countr\-. As it was, a good many seemed disposed to think the curious had been carried far enough. But then in this world that we live in, with all its boisted civilisation, there are no fewer than 1^50,000,000 who go habitually naked. And must we refuse them tlie help and con- solation of missionaries through our high standard of modesty ? They were mostly young, and both sexes were fully represented. There were also representa- tions of their villages and huts, constructed rudely of wood, and covered with tree-bark and dried grass. In the interior there was hardly anything in the shape of furniture, except a roughly-constructed bedstead, over- laid with a counterpane of coarse matting. And this luxury did not find its way into all. They appeared to require their victuals cooked ; there was a special section for the cooking, where all advanced in turn, and in perfect order, receiving each his quota. The food mainly consisted of boiled vegetables, soup, and meat made into smalls, and while being divided with ladles presented the appearance of liver stew. In partaking of the repast they squatted on the ground, and kept talking most good -humourcdly during the operation, calling into use no other implements than their fingers. Sometimes they turned on the sight- seers, dealing out, as they thought, some very able strokes of satire in their own language, and seemed to enjoy immensely its unintelligibility, giving way to ■n COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 179 the most uproarious laughter. Occasionally they attempted English words, but appeared to have a special predilection for slang, as, indeed, somehow or other seems to be the case with most foreigners. Favourite expressions were, "Chickagho be-er," "Tara- ra-boom-e-ah," " Fecve clients plese." They were much devoted to gambling, and were able to accom- plish wonderful feats on cards. In one corner a game of cards was in progress, the stakes being five ceiits a side, which was watched with lively interest. Towards the end the two youths engaged, who spoke the same language, and might from their general appearance be brothers, became very excited, and watched each other's movements with the keenest concern. One at length claimed the victory and the ten cents, but the other bitterly disputed the claim, and the scuffle com- menced. They did not lose temper, and the whole thing seemed rather a fit of playfulness. Such wrest- ling, and tossing, and horse-play I shall never forget. The loser eventually approached a visitor, who, he thought, had the worth of his money of amusement at the spectacle, and respectfully requested " feevc chents." The request was at once complied wnth, and the contest was amicably .settled. They had usually a curious knack of handling yourself and all your belongings. Sometimes they took you by the hand and examined it, and from their movements 'twas clear they were drawing comparisons. Then they examined the materials of your clothing, and kept talking all the time, as if pronouncing some judg- ment or other. The female portion, with the instinc- tiveness of the sex, w e more shy, and preferred to abstain from all contact with the sightseers. ■ «^l m m 'fMf» 'ii- i '. Jl *v I So COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. Some of them were better shaped, and might be styled more handsome, according to our ideas, than the American coloured folk. As well as I can judge, dark eyes, thin lips, and, of course, general symmetry, form the niggers' standard of beauty. They had neither feet nor head covering, and their hair was short and curling, and in other respects they were no better clothed than the men. One of the latter, who sported a sparsely scattered beard, and who had a very reasonable supply of clothing, spoke a little English, which he had gathered from missionaries. While speaking he appeared most abstracted, and seemed not to understand the significance of the words he was using. I could learn from him, how- ever, that he was in a great hurry to get home to his own counLry and friends, and that he had the most profound contempt of his African neighbours. The whole was in charge of a manager, who was obliged by articles of agreement to return them duly to the districts whence they came. The portion allotted to the Indians was not of so much interest to the Americans as to foreigners. At present the Indians are becoming rapidly civilised, and embracing Christianity. Most of the tribes were here represented, and their customs and modes of life, with which, of course, the people of the countr\' were pretty generally familiar. At times they performed on instruments, which much resembled rudely-con- structed violins, and danced. The music was very plaintive, but the dance was so complicated that I could not easily make it intelligible. An old chief, who was arrayed in battle costume, his loins merely covered, and the rest of the body dyed with henna, COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. l8l m prided in describing his various feats in battle and the dangers he had run. He showed his many scars, and addressed himself always to such as seemed most likely to admire his prowess. He was a very old man — over ninety — but was still strong and healthy. The English spoken by him was quite intelligible, but his remarks were more interesting than reliable, being noticeably under the influence of alcohol. The Indians are very fond of intoxicants, and under their influence become so infuriated and savage that it is often unlawful to sell spirituous liquors in their vicinity. Many of the others, besides henna, were ornamented with beads and necklaces of primitive design, with great turbans of variously-coloured feathers. Might not the custom of wearing feathers, and birds' wings, and many other absurdities, have its origin in bar- barism ? A street of an Egyptian cit)^ was very architec- turally designed, and attracted great crowds. The houses were extremely high on both sides, and the space between so narrow, that two vehicles could barely pass. This is the style of most of the cities of Eastern nations. Youths in long-flowinir robes of material some^vhat resembling calico, and strangely constructed head-gear of cloth, but barefooted, afforded opportunities to such as had disposition for camel riding. The huge animals fell to the ground for their burden, and did the same while being relieved of it. While the thing was in progress, the clamouring of the camel-leaders was deafening. They had learned to say, " Keep out of the way," and kept saying it with a vengeance. Slaves, too, were on show, in manacles and chains, poor cowering, crouching things, who i] 1 1 .)' r ' l82 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. were afraid to raise their eyes. The United States Government had agreed not to interfere on their be- half, and thus slaves they were and slaves they still remained. It was curious here also to observe their free women moving around in unearthly dark veils, with clasps affixed to their nose, the real construc- tion of which 1 v/as unable to make out, owing to the thick drapery, the whole giving them the appear- ance of beings of another world. I wish I had space for the South Sea Islanders and their sports, the Chinese village, the Lapland village, the Ice Railway, and the great Ferris wheel. This latter afforded great amuscmcnit, and most people availed themselves of it. Having reached the top of the Eiffel Tower, in Paris, safely, but feeling no wiser on my return, I did not consider that I should profit much by a trip in the present case, and therefore saved my 50 cents. At different points in the perimeter were attached cars for passengers,, which were so ordered that as the lowest was filled another, by setting it a little in motion, was made to take its place, and so on. As the revolutions went on the compartments were arranged so as to be always erect, and thus the circuit of the great wheel of 250 feet in diameter was made in perfect safety. Most of the States, besides having special buildings in the Fair grounds, had also special days, and many foreign countries as well. The displays on the occa- sions appeared to me highly grotesque. In the first instance, they assembled at some starting point in the city, and having marched in processional order through a stated number of streets, directed their steps Fair-wards. In the procession the different COLUMBIAN SKITCHES. 183 sections were headed by bands in uniform, which (h.-icourscd the music peculiar to the country. Each section wore a distinctive dress — some wore tall hats, some low hats, some soft, some straw hats, some carried sticks, some umbrellas, and the rest, but in all cases the outfit of the several sections was the same in the minutest detail, even to the gloves. Winding up each divi^:ion came a lady, enthroned on a large wooden framework, artistically decorated with flowers and evergreens, bearing on her head a garland of roses, attended with cherubs of her own sex in fancy dresses of white, the whole drawn by some four horses in the most fantastic of trappings. You see this is the reigning goddess of the hour, and 'tis strange that men who at other times do not look upon woman as any- thing preternatural, should on so many occasions of this sort elevate her to such a position of eminence. Probably when women get all their rights, and become lord ma}'ors, and judges, and presidents, and many (^ther things I can't remember, with absolute power to make desirable changes, this condition of things shall be exactly reversed. ]^>ut to return to the procession, when the Fair was reached, and the good folk had paraded themselves sufficiently to the public gaze, they betook themselves to Festival Hall, a great build- ing for like purposes, which one would think might contain the population of a whole city, and here they listened to stirring speeches from their wise men and prophets, who took special pains to assure them they were the greatest people on earth. They then went their way perfectly delighted with themselves, and seemed disposed to think the thing was now so settled that nobody in future should attempt to cavil. ! i 1 m 1 <[ COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. By night the Vnk appeared in all its beauty. The number of electric lights that fronted the various buildings, bright and twinkling as stars, the lakes reflecting silver, the magnificent display of fireworks, the sweet music in the air, the countless multitude of human faces, and the babel of tongues of the many nations, surpassed in effect anything the imagination could picture. I shall not attempt further description, lest I might be tried some department was a lady some forty years old, very civil and obliging, who COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 191 appeared only too happy to give all the information in her power. But it seemed more than strange ti at one of the gentler sex should here find employment con- genial to her tastes. During our stay a funeral arrived in the little church, accompanied by ladies and gentle- men of apparently very respectable standing. Ladies attend funerals as well as gentlemen, but the latter do not wear scarfs. When the casket was safely deposi- ted on its stand, and all had taken their places, a clergyman distinctly, but solemnly, read the funeral service, and soon the friends and sympathisers dried their tears and went their way, leaving their beloved one to the mercy of the flames. The coffin was of beautifully polished wood and costly mounted. How hard to think that in a few moments it should be con- verted into firewood to burn its treasure. Two reliable witnesses alone of all the rest remained to sec that everything was carried out in detail as it should ; and soon the work of destruction commenced. The body is enveloped in alumed cloth, then placed in a huge casket of iron, and laid over a furnace, where it remains until flesh and bones are completely charred. Not even the smoke is wasted, the flues being so arranged that it cannot escape, and, thus, is eventually condensed into matter. When the whole process has been gone through, the ashes are collected and placed in an earthen urn of about the capacity of a good-sized bowl, carefully labelled, and duly re- turned to the friends, which they bury or retain among their household treasures as their inclination directs. 1 am not sure that this will ever become a popular treatment of the dead. It has already many advocates, but the idea is in the highest degree, to If!; m i it m Ifi 192 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. i ;i most people, revolting, and seems, with little doubt, a relic born of pagan worship. Being out on the sentimental, I also visited the State Insane Asylum, which was, perhaps in every particular, so much like a similar institution in our own country that details are monotonous. One of the officers in charge undertook to show our party the various departments, answering all our queries will- ingly, and at the same time very intelligently. In some cases the patients were frantically violent, and in others so composed that at first sight 'twould be difficult to tell where sanity ceased and insani*-v began. All of them had some leading mania. Maii> of them were from different countries in Europe, who, anxious to become rich in the shortest possible time, had embarked in speculations which failed, and, there- fore, hopelessly Icit their earnings of many years of toil. This shock, probably on the eve of their return- ing to their native country, so acted upon the nervous system that insanity was the result, and hence the last state was immeasurably worse than the first ; for of all the miseries that infest the human family this is the most lamentable. Others were crazed on politics and political offices. A middle-aged Irishman, with a well-flavoured Southern brogue, asked me if I had heard that Parnell had become lately King of Enr land. I assured him I was not aware of the fact, u the last I heard of him was that he had been securely laid in Glasnevin Cemetery, from which I expected he had not yet arisen. " Well," he said firmly, and with an air that indicated he was dissatisfied with my answering, " this is the fact now." I felt this was a tough customer, and gave him his way fully. A boy COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. ^9: under the age of twelve was presented to us, who was also at times labouring under the wildest spasms of frenzy. I mention this case as it is exceptional. In the women's department the patients were suffering pretty much as the men, except that the crazes ran in a different groove. Their ravings savoured of broken- off marriage engagements, family bereavements, music, and literature. Human foibles and human maladies are pretty much the same all over, and I therefore suppose the patients at Buffalo were not substantially different from like sufferers with ourselves. The building was very commodious, the halls and dormitories spacious and well ventilated, and, throughout, the pink of neat- ness. On our departure I took occasion to inquire how sufferers wh ) became violent were dealt with, and if punishment was called into requisition. " We arc not supposed," rejoined our guide, " to make use of any punishment whatever ; but now and again we find," he added, with a meaning smile, " it is well nigh impossible to get on without the hickory." I feel constrained to hastily take my leave of the Insane Asylum and its courteous cicerone to visit the Asylum of the poor in the city suburbs. The alms house, as the name runs there, was so very pro- nouncedly the habitation of the poor that nobody could possibly mistake it, being internally and ex- ternally as bleak and dreary a public institution as I have here or there at any time chanced upon. The general regime was pretty much the same as with us, but the food was much more substantial. However, I felt more interested in the unhappy inmates, who had been reduced to the necessity of whining away the closing years of their existence amidst such i ir ' ) 194 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. bleakness, than in the cast iron rules and drear)- halls. Many of them, I found, were foreigners, who had come to the country in the prime of life, buoyed with the brightest hopes and prospects, but, alas ! every- where encountered hardships and disappointments. Such was particularly the case with my country- woman, who took the first opportunity of introducing herself, dealing out at the same time her story of sorrow. From her statement she had come to the country amid the prayers and tears of loving parents, fond sisters and brothers, and the God-speed of friends. Prospects of a glorious future lay before her. Shortly after her arrival she married a German fortune-seeker like herself, who died a few years after the marriage, leaving her widowed and a famil)-. She succeeded with much struggling to maintain her charge ; but no sooner were they able to take charge of themselves, than they became reckless and dis- obedient, and afterwards went their way, so that for years she had heard nothing of them. It only re- mained for her, once she became frail and helpless, to take to the alms house, or die of starvation. " Have you not," I asked, " some friends in the old country who would feel interested in your case and render you some assistance ? " " Friends ! " she said. " No ; my parents are long since dead ; a new generation has sprung up who could not possibly be interested, and do you think would I tell my friends that all my brightest dreams of success have ended in this dungeon ? IS^o^ never ; I should suffer a thousand times more, first." " The old friends are gone," I observed, " and you are the last rose of summer." " Rose ! " she repeated. *' There have been no roses in my life." The history COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 195 of many of the others was somewhat after the same, but often with more of wildness and romance. How hard to think that this sh -uld be the end ! As I rec^arded the i^loomy scene around me I could not help wondering that there were not more people in the insane house and less in the alms house. 'Twas my intention to speak of the beautiful City Cemetery, which is about the finest I have seen ; the Convent of the Good Shepherd and its object, and the many estimable friends I have met at Buffalo, whose kindness and hospitality I shall never forget ; but it is the old, old story over again — pressure forbids. ill m^ m f96 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. CHAPTER XXII.— SUNDAY AT NIAGARA FALLS. POETS and rhymers, and writers of every degree, have written on Niagara Falls, until now there is hardly a corner for amateurs safe from incurring the risk of trespassing on other people's property. All the pictures, whether of poetry or prose, which I have come upon seemed to me very faint reproduc- tions of the reality. Nor can I hope to shed around the scene additional lustre. The views, as presented to the eye, of the world-famed Falls have impressed visitors generally alike, but the overawing sensation ever experienced face to face with this mighty work of nature, varies with the individual. In cases, 'tis the overpowering thought ot eternity and the Great Creator that bursts upon the mind ; again, 'tis the vastness of the world that we live in, and our own insignificance ; and then 'tis nature's wondrous works ; now 'tis an overwhelming fear and the shrinking of every tissue at the thought of a revolting death ; soon the energies are aroused, and the mind is inspired with deeds of daring ; sometimes the tendencies are suicidal, and desperadoes often come hundreds of miles to see the Falls, and die ; some become enamoured, others goaded to vengeance, others insane ; one while the soul is transported with joy, and again sad re- membrances of distant or departed friends cloud the memory, and so on endlessly. For myself, I cannot claim to be agitated in all these ways, but I con- fess my usual method of thinking and acting was seriously disarranged, and for long the noise of falling COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 197 waters sounded in my ears, while my mind inad- vertently ever turned to its goodly stock of legends, and thrilling accidents, and suicides, and deeds of heroism connected with Niagara. I have always had some unspeakable dread of entering on descriptive details of the World's Fair and the Falls, and felt if I got securely over these straits the rest should be fair weather. Nor do I think will anybody consider my apprehensions unfounded, knowing the real difficulty of the undertaking. By whatever chance I arrived at Niagara late on Saturday, and was therefore obliged to remain there all Sunday, so that I had an opportunity of seeing the thousands of excursionists who come from all parts of the country on this favourite day. I did not observe, however, that the capacity of the churches was anything over- taxed for the influx. On my inquiring at the office of the International Hotel, where I stopped, if my mail had yet arrived I was presented with a letter,, which contained a printed invitation to six different churches and as man^ evening associations, all holding diverse views on matters of faith. Needless to say, I could not avail myself of all the opportunities so con- siderately afforded me. In reference to the churches, I may here observe that I have noticed very generally a want of due reverence, even among Catholics. I do not remember that I have heard a single preacher who had not good grounds for complaint against the audience. In Italy and France, if they are not pleased with the preacher, they walk out of the church ; in England they send him a letter, legibly and fully signed, informing him of his evil ways ; in America they laugh in his face. In all cases there must be ^41 198 COLUMBIAN SKh'TCHF.S. very grave underlying errors, and remedies should be instituted by proper authority to have them promptly cancelled. The church at the VnUs was no excep- tion, and the chuckling and undcrtalk of youths antl maidens on all sides during the preacher's discourse were sufficient to scandalise the weak and make the strong lose temper. Sunday is the great day of rendezvous, and the excitement on the landing and departure of trains is seld(Mn elsewhere witnessed. Everywhere parties of nine and ten are to be met, who, determined to make the most of the hours, laugh, shout, climb rocks, tempt danger, and do all sorts of unmeaning things. Sometimes the parties are exclusively young m'?n, sometimes exclusively young women, sometimes a proportion of both, sometimes a whole family is repre- sented. 'Tis only in the evening at the picnic that the real sport commences. Here a cloth is spread upon the greensward, and all, irrespective of condi- tion, take their place, squatted on the ground in every conceivable shape, around it. Then the good things are produced, the muskmelon, the bananas, the peaches, the grapes, the oranges, the hams, the sandwiches — aye, and the whiskey. Yes ; the Americans do drink whiskey plentifully. Experts, however, claim that the whiskey manufactured there is neither agreeable nor wholesome. Re this as it may, all such incon- veniences in the excitement of the moment are dis- regarded. I am not sure that the whiskey undergoes the ice treatment, but nearly all the other drinks do. If I am not grievously in error, th.cy use much more ice than is good for them. 'Twould seem, with less ice, Warner's .Safe Cure, and the countless other COLUMBIAN SKF.TCHES. 199 antidotes to kidney disease, which everywhere flare in their pubhc prints, mi^dit more readily be dispensed •"h. Perhaps on this point, too, we may allow Jonathan a little of his own way. He works hard and is over-heated, and naturally wishes to get cooled ; but it reciuires more reasoning than he can bear to convince him that getting cooled, at all events sud- denly, is not the proper thing in such circumstances. Well, about the picnic, the palatable things disappear as by magic before such appetites as Niagara only gives, and of the whole naught remains but orange peel, peach pebbles, banana husk.s, anci empty bottles. Nothing is permitted to go to waste in America, and, therefore, a sham fight is at once organised. The orange peel and such like are the implements of war- fare, offensive and defensive, sometimes hitting the mark and as often missing, but in all cases the effect is equally attained. The battle over, the bottles — these are the warships — are tightly corked and made to float the rapids. Then there is a shouting, and swaggering, and betting as to which shall be first to descend the Falls, this being the test of victory. In this way the day is spent, and the next rush is for the car^ and home. Such singing, romping, eating, and drinking ! One had better visit Niagara for a real genuine Yankee picnic. Some remarkably strange wights have found fame here. Amongst them may be mentioned the name of Francis Abbot, known as the " Hermit of the Falls." He was a young man of an English family, well educated, and had tendencies to authorship, writing a good deal, and always in Latin ; but from some unaccountable caus destroyed the manuscripts as t\ 200 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. ! I 1 I !i soon as executed. He had built for himself a rudely- constructed hut, whence he went forth at all hours of the night, making excursions to the places at the Falls, fraught with the greatest danger. He was eventually drowned, and his body now lies in Oak- wood Cemetery, near that of Captain Webb and other celebrated victims of Niagara. Sam Patch, too, deserves mention, having made a name in the sporting world for his wonderful feats of jumping, especially at the Falls. Like most folk, Sam did not always act wisely, and, all things pondered, it might have been as well had he kept to his original, but more obscure, employment as sail ^r. Not content with his success at Niagara, he wished to astonish the world by per- forming a feat still more astounding than anything hitherto attempted. According to his favourite maxim, " One thii.^ might be done as well as another," he went to Rochester, and announced his intention of jumping at the Rochester Falls from a height one hundred and twenty-five feet. From advertisement the performance was to take place at two o'clock p.m., and thus thousands were collected at that hour. By the same it appeared there was to be a second per- formance shortly after the first by Sam's bear. At the appointed hour Patch appeared, but too apparently under the influence of drink. In the excitement he forgot the order of programme and pushed the bear off the platform first to set the example. The poor brute prepared for the inevitable, and, curling himself like a ball, made the dreadful plunge, and escaped unhurt. Now 'twas Sam's turn, but he fell loosely and in a sprawling condition in the water, and thus a tragic death wound up a strange career. His body was not recovered for months afterwards. i I COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 20I M. Blondin, however, completely outdistanced Patch, though in a different line. Blondin's forte was rope- walking, and in this he has set an example which has not been, and is not likely to be, successfully imitated. His original intention wus to walk a rope stretched to the Canadian shore above the cataract, but good sense at length prevailed, and this project was abandoned. In this case, should any accident have happened, his fate would not only be certain death, but his body in the dreadful descent would be mangled beyond all possibility of recognition. His most notable feat was in the summer of i860. On that occasion, in the presence of the Prince of Wales, he performed the remarkable feat of walking a wire rope two hundred and thirty feet high above the rapids with a man on his back, the space being nearly half a mile. Already Blondin had accomplislicd feats infinitely surpassing anything the most daring spirits had even conceived. Many times he did his rope- walk with perfect ease and composure, turning a somersault in the centre, standing on his head, and going through various other evolutions to arouse the Hagging spirits of the crowd. On the present occasion the performance was truly marvellous. His Royal Highness besought him not to attempt it, and pointed out at some length the terrible danger of the undertaking. Nothing could prevail upon him to alter his programme, and soon the appalling deed was in progress. H. C'alcourt was the man who was carried, and his position was certainly no sinecure. From the beginning the pro- digious crowd was wild with excitement and anxiety. After about five minutes the voyagcurs rcjted, and Calcourt descended from his not very easy position nil 202 C(3 LV M B I A N S K I:TC ! I K h. to afford the performer a respite. For a moment there was a breatlilcss silence in the throng, but the worst was to come. The business of gettin^^ to his place again was something appalling. Two unsuc- cessful attempts were made, and meanwhile Blondin oscillated violently. The third was successful, and in this way, after three more stops, die dreadful under- taking was accomplished. During the fearful ordeal the onlookers were paled to death from fear and tension, but that it was over, the burst that greeted the victor may be better fancied than described. The <'.|" ! iuse subsiding, he returned whence he set out on stilcS three feet high with perfect freedom. Since then nobody has even at':cmpLcd his deeds of daring, although several ha\e succeeded in crossing the gorge on a tight rope. In addition to rope-walking many have made a name by various other exploits. Among them may be mentioned the barrel navigation through the whirlpool and rapids. In this case the voyageur is tucked into the barrel, which is fittcrl with a number of contrivances, including air supply, well sealed, and then permitted to take its way. Many have succeeded in -this undertaking — a Miss .Allen among' the rest, who is the only lady, so far, that has had the courage to enter on this rugged passage. Latterly the thing has come to be regarded of \ery secondary note. The adventure, too, of Mr. Joel Robinson partakes of the dramatic, and has made for him an undying name. Contrary to the hopes and e\])cctations of all folks endowed with reason, Joel set out on his stormy voyage down the rapids in an excursion steamer, where the waters bubble and eddy, and rush at the tremen- dous pace of twenty miles an hour, and at places much ■tsaaaai COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 203 faster. His destination was to be Lcwiston, seven miles distant. Nobody thought the thing possible, and nobody hoped to see again alive the adventurous pilot. He was, however, successful in the hazardous undertaking, although the vessel suffered severely from the dreadful passage. He himself looked so haggard that his most intimate friends could hardly recognise him, and he never recovered from the shock, dying shortly afterwards. I need hardly mention the tragic end of Captain M. Webb, the English swimmer. It will be remembered that in 1 883 he undertook to swim, relying solely on his own skill and bravery, the Whirl- pool Rapids, and then the Whirlpool. Needless to repeat, a terrible death was the result of a terrible undertaking. As I viewed the scene of his fate the very thought of such foolhardiness made my blood to tingle and my every nerve to shrink. There have been other casualties without number, but I could never reach the end ! With regard to the Falls, I may ob.erve that 'tis held the original falls were at Lewiston, seven miles below the present. 'Tis highly improbable that such was ever the case, although 'tis clear enough that they recede at least something yearly. Some place the rate of retrocession at one inch yearly, some a foot, and some more. That the Niagara Falls should recede to its present i)osition for even seven miles in the lapse of ages is not impossible, but there is wide diversity of opinion as to whether the outlet from Lake Erie through all time occupied the channel it now occupies. Leaving the matter to theorists, the Falls, as seen at presi.^nt, may be regarded as far surpassing in sublimity and beauty anything of the kind in the universe A Ml til I I ) l-i. 204 COLUMBIAN SK ITCHES. rock-bound island, called Goat Island, divides the Niagara River, and thus there are two falls — one the Canadian Fall and the other the American. The Cana- dian Fall, which is claimed as British propcrt}-, is the more extensive, while the drop of the American Fall is the higher. Their respective heights are quoted at 164 feet for the American Fall, and I5t But is it possible I ha\-c done with Pcston ! i 2l6 COLUMBIAN SKKTCHES. CHAPTER XXIV.— THE CITY OF THE MORMONS. FROM Boston I pass to ihc region of wonders. Among them not the least is Great Salt Lake, a vast expanse of inland sea intensely salt. Here is Salt Lake City of notoriety as being the home of the Mormons, whose tenets may be considered the most wonderful of all the wonderful forms of faith that now grace the world. But I have not yet done with the wonders. I have to speak of the huge nuggets of gold thrown carelessly about without an owner ; of the ad- venturous miner, yet a poor man, but who rises one lucky morning to find himself a millionaire ; of boil- ing springs and lakes and fountain.s sending their mighty volumes of steaming water into the air ; of mountains clad with pi^rpetual snow ; of volcanoes ; of tunnelling extraordlnar}'-, so that by the time I have finished you will be half in:lined to shake your head and say, There sure'y must be some mistake. I had been but a few days in the country when an American, who learned that I had come as a tourist, asked me if I intended going Wcsi:, and if I included Yellowstone Park in my programme. I assured him my intention was to go West, but that I had not en- tertained the above, inasmuch as I did not even know that there was a Yellowstone Park. His look of astonishment v. 'as something rot easily to be forgotten. But aren't there thousands in the same hapless state of ignorance as myself ? I have first to deal with Salt Lake City and the lake, and my readers may be prepared for wondrous COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 217 revelations when I tell them at the start that I am now considerably more than two thousand miles from where I last revealed myself. An idea of the extent of the United States can be formed when it is remembered that the journey from New York to San Francisco is no fewer than 3,361 miles, occupying more than four days' continuous training, and that it stretches from north to south as the bird flies, nearly two thousand miles. But this is not all. A few years ago the territory of Alaska was added, which is at least five times the extent of the British Isles. Alaska was originally the property of the Russians, whose interest the Americans bought at 7,200,000 dols. The States folk are not an aggressive people, and don't much care to engage in war. At present they can only reckon upon 25,000 of a standing army. J^ut they are an essentially business people, and would much prefer to buy countries than fight for them. One of these days Jonathan will take it into his head to come to England, and approach the good old lady of Balmoral, and require her to inform him how many dollars she is willing to accept for Canada. And then her Most Gracious Majesty will command, and declare, that her mighty dominion of the West is not for sale. Jonathan, not a whit disconcerted, will return home and inform his friends and neighbours that the folk In England, especially the old woman herself, are sadly wanting in business tactics. Away in the Rocky Mountains is the capital of Utah, Salt Lake City, four thousand feet above the sea level. Hither ]3righam Young led his followers, and encamped, after a series of persecutions and hard- ships, in this Land of Promise, likening himself to p 2l8 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. ! 8 Moses, the deliverer of the Israelites. To him, with his followers, is due the present city of 50,000 in- habitants, of whom many are Mormons — that is, believers, and, of course, the rest Gentiles or un- believers. The city is more than a dozen miles from the lake from which it takes its name. Salt Lake City is fast growing, and gives promises of being about the largest and most beautiful of Western cities. It has grovvn with wonderful rapidity, considering its comparative youth, and the untoward difficulties with which it had to contend. For a long time it was en- tirely in the hands of the Mormons, but by degrees, unbelievers crept in, while unfaithful Mormons seceded, and now most of the multifarious religions are more or less represented. The Mormon tenets did not en- courage enterprise, preferring a sort of community life, where goods and chattels arc exchanged for kind, instead of money. This is in no small degree the tendency of all communities in out-of-the-way places of the West even now, money centres being often so far distant, but it can be easily seen that this state of thing is inconvenient and unfavourable to rapid develop- ment. Mining, too, was discouraged, although there are great facilities in the neighbourhood, and the saints, with characteristic simplicity, directed their sole attention to land cultivation, as being more Scriptural and conducive to spiritual advancement. Speculators of every grade, however, found their way to the spot, although the holy ones tried hard to oppose them, and the result was that money became current. The good people, having fallen a little from their first fervour, saw how much more convenient currency was, and gradually adopted it. At present 1 ■$ ■''1 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 219 its money circulation is equal to that of any city of its size in the Union. The plan of the city is much that of other American cities, except that the stranger is prone to regard it as partaking more of the country, vvith its wooded streets, having alongside open channels of running water, its gardens fronting so nany houses, and the clumsiness of the original homes still extant. There are some very beautiful buildings, and some magnifi- cent hotels. Every convenience is afforded travellers, there being electric cars on the streets and railway communication in all other directions. The country around looks very fertile, and particularly accommo- dated for grazing and farming, extending for one hundred miles of valley, with the towering snow peaks of the Rocky Mountains in full view, like great white clouds fringing the horizon. The greatest interest is centred in the locality, owing to the presence of the Mormons, who are remarkable for their antiquated doctrine, but are at the same time good farmers and generally industrious. There is always a great rush of tourists and visitors in summer, some intent on the Mormon worship, while others avail themselves of ihe health-giving qualities of the lake. Most people visit the Taber- nacle and the other Mormon buildings connected with it, which take up a good sized square, shut out from the unbelieving world by a high wall. The Tabernacle is a round building, constructed of wood^ except the forty-six pillars of stone supporting the roof; the roof is semicircular, somewhat after the manner of a church dome. Here thirteen thousand people can be accommodated, and on Sundays it is HlHi ' II n 20 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. usually filled to overflowing. There is free access to the public, and many attend attracted by the music for which it is so famous, as well as to hear pro- pounded the curious tenets of the sect. Of their faith polygamy is the most distinguishing characteristic, which the government, after repeated efforts, has been wholly unable to stamp out. At the present time the visitor can still see the house where twenty of the prophet's wives resided. This was a fairly good ex- ample to his followers, which is still having its effect. Service commences at the Tabernacle at two o'clock in the afternoon, and consists of music, preaching, communion of bread and water, and long prayer, so that, by the time the whole is finished, nearly three hours arc taken up. The choir consists of men and women, who muster in great strength, facing each other, but divided by the organ, which is said to be the finest in the country. In this section arc the benches of the Church dignitaries, covered w^ith crimson cloth, three in number, and raised one above the other, so as to designate their occupants. On the highest sit the president and his two counsellors ; the second is occupied by the twelve apostles, while bishops get the lowest place. Precisely at two the organ peals forth, and the choir joins in sweetest chorus. The music over, a long prayer is instituted, and mean- while preparations are being made by the brethren to distribute the bread and water. Everybody partakes, and during the operation the preaching is going on by one of the officers. One tires and another takes his place, and so on, the second outstripping the first, the third the second, and thus the proceedings are en- livened and interest is aroused in the respective merits yuLsMi loci COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 221 of the preachers. After a long service, more theatrical than divine, the immense throng is dismissed, and the great wide streets arc filled in all directions. In the same square of ten acres, and enclosed by the same high wall, is the Temple, a gorgeous building, splendid in every detail, solidly built of granite, much after the style of our churches, except that both gables are turreted. It is said to have cost the enormous figure of one million pounds. The worshippers paid all, and willingly, doubtless buoyed with the exceptional promises held out to them. They were made to be- lieve that on its completion, Jesus Christ was to appear to them bodily in the flesh, and I should say express His satisfaction at the work in particular, and His general approbation of Mormonism. But the Temple has been completed, and the rest still remains un*" ifiUed, and now people are beginning to leav^e off hopes. There is no limit to human credulity, and the most absurd doctrines find supporters, and their evangelists find proof and con- firmation strong from Holy Writ. The next big lie propounded by the Mormon elders will be listened to with the same interest, and believed with the same unswerving faith. It appears the Temple is to sup- plant the Endowment House, which is a rudely constructed building in the same square, and within the same wall, while the Tabernacle is still to be the place of worship. The Endowment House was set apart for special rites, and here the Mormons were married and received their marriage portions, while various other ceremonies were gone through not very intelligible to outsiders. The history of Salt Lake City will ever remain h li u i Ill OJ 222 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. associated with the Mormons anH their notorious chief, Brigham Young. By the latter it was founded in the year 1847, so that it is not yet fifty years old; but during that comparatively short time it has made an astonishing record. It will be long remembered that Brigham Young sought to establish here a State under the name of " Deseret," over which he was to have absolute control, temporally and spiritually. There is still a Mormon newspaper organ published under that title. The United States Government refused to recognise the new State, but established the territory of Utah, placing Brigham Young its first Governor. He soon became so authoritative, counselling poly- gamy, and thrusting aside the judges appointed by Congress, that he was deposed, fined, and imprisoned. He died in the year 1H77, and was succeeded by an Englishman named John Taylor. I am glad to have finished with the Mormons, their origin, and chief, and now find a relief in turning to the Great Salt Lake. This lake is 75 miles long and 30 miles broad, salt beyond anything sea-goers here- abouts can form an idea. It is generally shallow and marvellously transparent, doubtless the invisible par- ticles of salt acting as a medium by which the light . the better conveyed to the bottom. Swimmers, owing to its great density, can float without any inconvenience or effort, although they may not have had any previous practice, and survey their surroundings with perfect ease. They will rather experience a difficulty in keeping themselves from floating, but, at the same time, it is hard to make any headway. This is due to the great proportion of salt with which the water is impregnated, and which feels to your floating body as ili|i3i COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 223 if it were a solid mass. It is nearly six times as salt as the ocean, and nearly as salt as the Dead Sea, yet not quite so much as the Persi .n Lake, Oroomiah. The smallest drop of it taken into the mouth causes pain, and death is said to set in after swallowing, just as certain as if it were a burning flame. In this way, too, the eyes suffer from its effects, and people are cautious not to splash their neighbours. There is absolutely no vegetation about its shore, trees, grass, shrubs, or flowers being wholly unable to withstand its withering blight. Even fish are unable to live in its waters, nor any of those creeping things to be found in or by the sea. Like all seas, it has its rocky coast and shore, but with salt for sand. Salt, there- fore, is found in abundance, and here and there, in addition, are dykes into which the lake is received, and where it is allowed to evaporate under the sun, leaving behind a thick incrustation. If, for no other purpose, Salt Lake is a valuable boon, as each year the exportation of salt is something enormous. But, be Ides, people have recourse to it as a health resort, just as elsewhere they go to the seaside. Bathing cannot be so freely indulged in as in sea water, its strength and intensity being much greater, although it does not appear that any special time is to be taken advantage of for the purpose. x\t all hours bathers may be seen disporting themselves. The shore is pro- vided with bathing boxes and outfit in the style of sea resorts. After the bath 'twill be always necessary to take a second plunge in fresh water, as the bather is all over so scaly as if dipped in brine. Well, this is surely a puzzle when one comes to reflect ! Here is a miniature ocean, almost in the centre of a great iil 224 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. continent, receiving several fresh water streams, and yet having no outlet ! Whence has it come ? And how all this fresh water supply absorbed ? But better leave the question to geologists, and such like folk, and pass on. 'Twill aflbrd them, I have no doubt, matter for serious meditation. 'Twas not much wonder that a place with such Scriptural associations should arrest the attention of a newly-arisen prophet. I had quite forgotten to speak of the several islands in the lake, which look as if undergoing the continuous process of being roasted to death. Some of them are large, and capable of grazing great herds of cattle and horses. The story runs that of the original horse herds pastured there some became entirely wild, and roamed at large. To capture them there was recourse to nooses or snares thrown across their trails. Into these they were furiously driven, and in the fright never saw the danger ahead until they were captured. The pursuers were obliged to hasten with all possible speed tn relieve them lest they should get strangled. One by one the poor things were captured, and became very docile and serviceable for all domestic purposes. And now, having described the city and the lake, something would naturally be expected of the manners and customs of the people. To begin, there are plenty of opportunities for education, and the Mormons, from whom the place greatly derives its spirit, encourage it. To describe the people of the West generally is simply to describe the people of the districts or various countries from which they came, being in most cases recent transplants. Usually they are friendly and communicative, ready to lend a helping hand ^.o the new comer, much more so than the Easterns, but in COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 225 all, not by any means so reliable. They display a curious tendency to criticise men and things, and express their views, whether rightly or wrongly, we would think rather freely, being excessive in their praise, and dreadfully severe in their blame. All this may be expected from people who have separated themselves from early associations, which are found to exercise a wholesome restraint, and without which the standard in social life is never of the highest. The descendants of the first pioneers are vastly an improvement if the settlement becomes a city ; but if it still remains a country district, there, after generations, owing to the great isolation, the people display all the tendencies of their fore- fathers, with the same accent, the same man- ners, the same faith (if any), and all their pre- judices. I have met them after a century's trans- plantation who had still serious misgivings about the Pope's cloven foot, and other vicious but senseless tales told in connection with the Vatican. The stories, which arc somewhat out of date now, it appears had been handed down by their ancestors of Great Britain, and treasured with wonderful precision. And hence an unfailing supply of little Britains may be found here and there with all the absurd notions and theories of Popery, which have been carefully planned and made to circulate in the greater Britain from the time of good King Harry almost until now. I may again refer to the system of populating by colony. t • I li,: 226 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 1 ; CHAPTER XXV. -THE NATION'S WONDROUS PARK. WE have seen a good deal of the Great Salt Lake and the Mormons, and wondered, but we have to wonder still more. Every tourist on seeing Salt Lake pays a visit to Yellowstone National Park, and vice versa. I assume, of course, in all cases that there is plenty of time and money on hands ; otherwise, the visitor shall lose much of the enjoyment in the fairy- like panorama of scenes around him. The phy^'^^al strain of sight-seeing is something that cannot be made sufficiently intelligible to the average individual. But there is another strain which acts with crush- ing force, and it is the remembrance that you arc far from friends and home, without money or credit. If you haven't money you are destitute and miserable ; if you have, you are half in dread of being set upon and robbed. Somebody said there was only one step between the sublime and ridiculous. There is only, too, one step between pleasure and pain, joy and sorrow. This was curiously illustrated in the case of the many tourists whose friendship I formed here and there en route. Invariably they informed me that their final act on taking their leave of friends and home, was the signing, sealing, and delivering of their last will and testament, and then entered on their career of pleasure-seeking. The smallest drop of sorrow, it would seem, is ever to be found in our cup of purest joy. Without entering farther into sentiment, I must forewarn those ! i COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 227 who may take it into tlicir heads some day to pay a flying visit to this wonderland, and who may be labouring under the impression that they can see its most wondrous features in the better half of a day. The National Park is not a park in the common sense of tlie term, but a country. Mere it will be necessary to sojourn and study the surroundings if anxious to gain a knowledge of its wild beauty and mystery. What a delightful little nook it is, containing no fewer than three thousand five hundred square miles of district ! But then what wondrous sights within that area ! When the first pilgrims to the spot related an account of what they had seen, sensible folk laughed heartily at their tales, and there the matter dropped. Later revelations, however, confirmed their statements, strange as they seemed. From Salt Lake City, which is in direct route to San Francisco, the National I'ark may be visjtcd, the distance being some three hundred miles. That's a pretty good stretch, but travelling three or four hundred miles in a country where every- thing is on largest scale is not much thought about; and the traveller is certain to find himself well repaid for his pains. The park, which is the property of the nation, lies partly in Montana and partly in Wyoming, right in the heart of the most elevated part of the Rocky Mountains. Owing to the first official report made, setting forth the wonders of the place. Congress decided to appro- priate it as a park for the people ; and now everything to be seen there is perfectly free, so that speculators on the curiou.s have no slioiv right around the Yellow- stone. In this regard ths Americans are to be highly ^^ (i r I 228 COI-UMBIAN SKETCHES. commended, as, all over, places of public interest arc thrown open to the public almost entirely free of charge. Neither is there to be paid at every turn a fee to the various officers. These voluntary contribu- tions are an abuse with us, and most annoying to travellers. They are, no doubt, a relic of the good old times when people regarded such bonuses a means of displaying their generosity ; but we now live in a business age, and methinks wc have the same right to bestow a fee upon the employe in the store, who sells its wares, as upon the car-'roy or hotel boy, or any such individual. On this principle I might multipK' until the thing would lead to endless complications. In America no such gratuities are required nor asked, although if there is a desire to be generous the same can be easily gratified. Even beneath the Stars and Stripes there are to be found free h^rn Americans who do not consider it beneath their privileges to accept a dollar in a quiet way from a friendly donor. There is very seldom occasion for refusal, as the people generally discountenance such things, and ICuropcans soon drop into the groove, and find in a few months they have considerably profited thereby. In travelling with us the Americans complain of this tax, and very justly. In one's immediate neighbourhood the whole may be regarded as a friendly transaction ; but travelling elsewhere is very much different, and the affair then becomes purely a matter of business, and, therefore, all claims should be fixed or discarded. Under other circumstances there is always a difficulty as to what is to be done, so that giver and receiver part in anything but good friendship. Why should not employers pay their servants a certain salary, and tmtOimmmmr U I COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 229 bill t.hc customer accordingly ? As it is, the servants must necessarily in the end become dishonest, taxinc services can be obtained for the purpose, and hotels of primitive design on the pathways vu route. But I (|uestion much if an ascent to the top of a Focky Mountain snow peak is not an entircl}' novel, dangerous, and trying experience, even with all the conveniences offered to the modern explorer. All told, the business is about the nearest thing that can be conceived to a holiday spent among the Alps of Switzerland. There are, too, several active volcanoes in the portion of the Rockies, known as the Maritime Alps, but not of much note. Much more important ones are to be found in Mexico and South America. I t i :.Ji. 244 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. I once said to a good-natured i\merican friend, " Well, you Americans eire the most consummate boasters ; you are incessantly puffing }-ourselves and your wares. So much so, that in your presence Europeans, if you can understand, became affected with something akin to hay fever." " I cannot well under- stand," replied my friend, *' how our presence produce fever of any kind in Europeans, but I can well enough understand why we Americans boast. You must know we have got something to boast about. We carj do without the whole world, and the world cannot do without us, for here we ha^'e everything." Why I introduced the subject of the R)cky Moun- tains was mainly for the mines of wepJth they con- tained. Nature always plays a little pranl' in the way of dealin,; out her treasures. What is precious and valuable can only be had after much difficulty, and not un frequently much danger. Ikit, perhaps, this is one of the main reasons why it becomes of value. It is pretty certain that all miners don't waste a deal of time in reasoning from cavise to effect. They are usually satisfied with the effect, and there the difficulty ends. There is in man an insatiable desire for riches too often for the sake of riches; but, tlien, this looks like the heading of a prose essay. 1 was speaking of the miners, who in this respect have most of the faults to \ lich human nature is subject. Miners, let it be remembered, are men, sometimes ver) rational beings, but frecjuently des])eradoes. The boom of gold attracts peoj^le of every shade of character, and ever)- condition, and as the precious metal is but to be found in places difficuh of access, and fraught with danger, there is all the more a fraction COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 245 end, natc non- do do for spirits of a restless and desperate nature. And then the idea is so much like gambling that the whole suits admirably their temperament, How- pleasant the thought of becoming with one bound immensely wealthy, especially for those of a wild and fanciful imagination ! The time of the average miner is taken up with mining, gambling, and drinking, being divided into three fairly equal shares. This is the case of such at all events as work solely in their own interest ; and as for those who are the em- ployes of a compan}', they must get their four dollars per day, and besides a good deal of their own way. Whether prospecting or in actual work, the miner has by him an outfit, which includes materials for tentin- a dog, but always the inevitable rifle or six-shooter. Arrived at the camj>, the first considera- tion is to raise a tent, and this is very often raised over the claim on which he means to work. Now, the whole is in working order, and tents of every make are scattered around in all directions, The op'^rators, stranger.-) to one another, are cautious of their sayings and doings. Soon restraint is put aside, and they become friends, and enjo}- each others society. Meanwhile, dealers in provisions find their way to the spot, and of a sudden saloons^ and gambling houses, and extensive boarding-houses, rudely constructed, spring up. Wonderful finds of gold and silver arc daily announced in the newspapers, with the result that the place is each day swarmed with a crowd of newcomers. The produce of the mines is the only currency, and hence the expression, " Down with 3'our dust." The grocers and saloon-kee[K'rs, and i ' i 246 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. boardinghousc keepers have their scales, and give value for weight, and whenever the buckskin wallet becomes empty, there is the remedy hard by. I have said the miner's time is not entirely taken up with work. Yes ; he too must have his moments of relaxation. Thus, he spends some of his hours in the saloon, and gaming house, where he plays, and drinks, and curses, and cheats, and fights, in fact, all such things whereby desperate men while away their spare hours. The six shooter is always at hand, and the result can easih' be anticipated. Civil authorities are absent, but substitutes are to be found in the person of half drunken zealots who take it into their head to vindicate the cause of law and order, and thus hang to the nearest tree the supposed (jiTender, and riddle the same with bullets. This is dreadful enough, but what if the wrong person has been so donlt with ! Is the scene to be repeated ? The thought is so revolt- ing one shrinks to investigate ! Each dav the news of the camp is of some such tragedy, or of some remarkable find, whercb\- the luck)' finder becomes a millionaire. In all, I don't think the miner's life is enviable. l-'or a long time the mining camps are S(jlely in the occupancy of men, women not finding sufficient courage to take up their quarters there in their crude condition ; but in course of time things become better adjusted, and even they find access to their husbands and brothers in the tents. Henceforward the place may be looked upon as an incipient city. The only drawback is the scarcity of women. Man\- tales arc told of the means used to remedy this defect, some highl)' ludicrous, and others not a whit too modest, but it is well always to leave a go(Kl margin HifTTin COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 247 for doubt in such cases. It is perfectly true that women arc comparatively few in all Western cities, and it would not be strange if a people so inventive should find rare methods of increasing their number. That is true, but there is always a point at which we begin to suspect colouring. That the miner's life has many inconveniences is clear, but, then, the record of vast sudden wealth wields a strange spell over people of ardent temperaments, who, under any circumstances, are not accustomed to reflect, and in this instance are actuated b}' only one prevailing idea. The thought of finding a great nugget of gold, and thus becoming from the poorest of adventurers, a rich man, and the mayor of a rising city, which in ten years may number fifty thousand inhabitants, is suffi- cient to arouse the ambitious to undertake tasks of exceptional difficulty and peril. Men have been so f(irtunate, and why not they? In one season a prospector near to Lcadville, Colorado, carried off for his pains twenty-nine pounds in weight of gold. Of the same quarter the story is told that a miner died, and of course had to be buried. A grave-digger was accordingly hired, and by specification the grave was to be sixteen feet deep, including ten feet of snow and six of earth. Days passed, and the grave-digger did not return. The wake was, therefore, prolonged out of all proportion, and in the end a search was instituted for the would-be sexton. At length they came upon him, and found him enriching himself, for the prospective grave turned out a sixty- ounce mine. Needless to say, the deceased was entirely forgotten in the general excitement. I may state that the best gold and silver mines are to be found in Colorado, California, and Nevada. 11 J48 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. CHAPTER XXVII.— SAN FRANCISCO AT LAST. ON arriving at San Francisco the visitor is dis- posed to congratulate liimself on having reached in safety the end of America. But Jonathan, jealous of his country's honour, watches the first opportunity to set him right on the conclusion. Yes, the Americans claim that since the addition of Alaska, the l^acific Coast is but the centre of the countr\% strange as it may seem. It does seem strange after such a long journey, and judging from experience, you will be inclined to question its veracity. At least you will be satisfied to rest and think out the puzzle for yourself, meanwhile hoping there is no more ground to be got over. Thus eventually travelling becomes not a pleasure, but a task, the sooner over the better. If half the road is to be got over, San Francisco is a charming place to make the break and rest. The natives call it 'Frisco, and I don't see why the title should not become general, especially as this is the age of business, and people haven't time to waste on unnecessary polysyllables. Its first name was Ycrba Buena, Spanish words, and mean wild mint, this herb being found there in abundance. Later tlie name was changed, and called after a monk of the order of St. Francis. The monks of this order may be regarded as the founders of the city, and the pioneers of civili- sation in the place, and the old mission church erected in those days still stands a monument of their enter- prise, unshaken by the elements and lapse of time. COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 249 ]kit who cares about names and their origin ? That is better left to schoolboys, who enter upon the task with no small amount of disrelish. One day in conversation with a Friscian, I observed — "Yours is a very beautiful city, and you are justly proud of it. I believe I may fairly predict for 'Frisco a glorious future." " Yes," he said, " we arc proud of our city, and I think you are easily justified in predicting for it a great future, but, we, too, have i)ur difficulties to war against. Haven't you in the old country squires or lords of the soil who own extensive demesnes, which form their country retreats whenever the)' choose to live at home. These, I am led to believe, are veritable boudoirs, but, for some reason not easily explained, too frequently infested with rats. It is somewhat thus with us. Our city and climate are delightful, but confound these Chinese ! " The comparison is low, but expressive, and vents the feelings generally entertained with regard to this race. There arc no fewer than 60,000 Chinese within the city limits out of a population of 320,000. 'Tis most difficult to get at their exact number, living as they do in all sorts of inaccessible and unexpected places. Fourteen years after the first house was built there the IVIongolians found their way to the spot, and then occupied a section known as " Little China." Nobody dreamt that Little China could grow to the Great China it since became. Every day the heathen horde increased, and, as they grew, civilisation fled as if panic-stricken. The very air in their vicinity became polluted owing to their barbaric and sloxenly habits, although it appears laundry work R ?f 250 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. is the profession of most of tliem, even of the men. White folk found it utterly impossible to live side by side with them, and tenement after tenement was deserted, only to be seized upon by the celestials, and forthwith crammed with occupants from roof to cellar. For instance, a hotel, once fashionable, but gradually merging into the Chinese quarter, ceased to receive the accustomed patronage. As a result 'twas let out (or tenancy. At no time could over 300 guests find comfortable accommodation. 15ut what ! not less than 2,000 Mongolians fitted into it beautifully, without a murmur or complaint. What is the sanitary authority doing all this time? The manner of living of this horde, according to our standard of civilisation, is little above absolute barbarism. But it is well to state that their ranks, as is the case with most immigrants, are supplemented from the lowest of the people. At home the Chinese are peculiarly polite and compli- mentary, amounting even to childishness, and their better class live comfortably, using pork, fish, fowl, and vegetables of various kinds, and, at times, the free use of ardent spirits and wines. In this regard they are known in America by the name of rice-peckers, rice being with them a prime favourite, and forming their staple food. This they manage to convey to its destination by means of chop-sticks, and the whole appears to outsiders a remarkable feat of hitting the mark under difficulties. They are the most inveterate gamblers, devoting all their hours to games of various sorts. Usually they do not enter on the more com- plicated ones. Some person tosses a quantity of coins, and the result depends on their being odd or even. But their grand characteristic is opium smoking. Ti; COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 2=;i the opium dens they retire when their work is over, and drown all life's cares -vith this poisonous drug. 'Tis not so easy to get at these recesses, being in out- of-the-way places, and only to be reached by dark, narrow hall-ways. You sec the law takes — or, rather, professes to take — hold of the opium devotees. Even .so, John Chinaman happens to have his wild longing gratified, and thus at stated times .seeks his opium, as folk with us the store or barber's shop. Forth- with he takes his position reclining on a wooden bunk or shelf, and has his whiff. Then comes on the much longed for stupor, and he dreams of friends and home, and all the flowers and joys of the celestial empire. This practice is most destructive to health, and no constitution can bear up against its effects, and, unfortunately, can hardly ever be given up when once contracted. Their moral tendencies are low, and their female slaves the most degraded of their srccies. They are said to belong in most cases to certain companies whose determination is such, that they carry their point in reference to labour contracts and the like by assassination if necessary. However, they strongly deny the existence of such societies, but hardly any confidence is placed in their word. They are very conservative of old principles, and adhere to their native customs in spite of all the acclimatising effects of the New World. Their dress is mixture of China and America, but the inevitable pigtail is sure to find a place in the jumble. Among thc-r amusements may be mentioned their theatres ; iiud the joss-h(3uses, too, should be visited. Oh ! these joss-houses ! 1 intended to secure a special number fur themselves. The Chinese are excluded from the franchise, and arc no H'l w 252 COLUMBIAN SKLTCHES. longer admitted as immigrants. They never come to the country to find a home there, but save what they can, and by whatever means, and hasten to the flowery kingdom lest their bones should be defiled by being wrapped in American soil. Sometimes their patriotic designs are frustrated, and a serious impediment in the shajic of a wife, even from our isles, arises. The half-bred Chinaman proves a first-classcitizen. Withal, the lady who selects such a husband must be endowed with no small amount of calm assurance. And with this I dismiss the Chinese. San Francisco, in its inhabitants, is one of the most cosmopolitan of cities, owing to its connection with so many ports of Eastern countries, as well as those of Europe, and the various costumes and physiques of earth are pretty much represented. The actual resi- dents claim to be highl)- refined, and give a good deal of their time to social gatherings, h'or my own part, I very much liked the Eriscians. There is, of course, a good deal of that frankne.-s, or as connoisseurs would call it, rude candour, which they regard as vulgar, but at the same time one gets soon accustomed to it, and you feel it rather pleasantcr than too much straighten- ing. The arts, too, thrive at T-^'risco, and artists of best European reputation reach this end-of-the-world city in safety, and give an impetus to their respective call- ings. More than this, they have the money, and hence they can afford to avail themselves of our best schools You need not think it strange should you stumble against a Eriscian at any time in the Latin Quarter in Paris, learning Erench, music, painting, and vice, con- jointly ; aye, and ladies from all parts of the country, not excluding San Erancisco, come to Europe for KHHi ' s h COLUMBIAN SKKTCIIES. 253 ijeiiifT lessons in the higher acquirements (if society, and that without an escort, living in school or otherwise as tliey think best. 'Jhere arc some exceedingly ludicrous stories told of wealthy Americans sccurincj the services, for hirCj of broken-down dukes and duchesses to intro- duce them to the good people of London, and the thing is all the more ludicrous for being a fact. During my visit in America the papers were overflowing with accounts of a rich Yankee lady who persisted, in spite of vast odds, to knock at the door of our most gracious Sovereign, for an interview. Again and a^ain she was repelled, and the pressmen continued to picture her disappointment in truly touching colours. Days passed, and weeks passed, and she stili continued to be paraded as the broken-hearted-ostracised lady representative of America. At length the clouds rolled by, and she attained the much-coveted honour. And then, what jubilation and what joy ! 1 have quite forgotten her name, and am sorry. The city itself is charming, but is far from having yet arrived at the hey-day of its gkjry. I have before me a view of its site in 1846, with the two score of houses scattered about in all manner of irregular ways ; now its streets are exceedingly well laid out, and in point of beauty not surpassed by anything in the country. California and Market Streets are delightful, and the residences of the railroad and mining kings are simply superb. The section occupied by this gentry is called by the folk in cvery-day language, " Nob Hill." The principal streets have their cable cars, and hence ready facilities are afforded for passing from one part of the city to any other. In this matter California claims the precedence, and owing to the inventive genius of \t 254 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. of Mr. h. II, Brooks, 'Frisco had the honour of lead- ing the world in the cable system. At present there arc cable cars, or electric cars in every city, in America. It seems so strani;c when one returns to .see the olden time horse trams in full operation in the principal thoroughfares of our largest cities. The site of die city is extreii.ely hill)', as is also the country around, but great things have been done in the wa}- of levelling and laying out beautiful streets and parks, where before the soil was utterl\- un[)r()ductive, or occui)ied with giant rocks and boulders. Streets, too, rise upon the ruins of what was in bygone days a harbour, but there is plenty of harbour yet remaining. 'Frisco liay, as seen from some point of vantage in the vicinity, is without doubt a very picturescjue sight, and what so much enhances its beauty is the curious combi- nation of islands with which it is dotted. The entrance to the bay, known as Golden Gate, is one mile in width, while the bay itself is capable of floating the largest vessels. Nature, therefore, intended 'Frisco for a great city, and 'tis not by any means improbable that 'twill count at no very distant date a population outnumber- ing New York. At the same time a city somewhat to the order of Brooklyn may, with good reason, be expected on the other side of the bay. The public buildings are not of such magnificent proportions as elsewhere, and could hardly be ex- pected. About the most attractive buildings in the city are the ]5aldwin and Palace Hotels. The Palace is a most beautiful building, occupying an entire block, with 755 rooms for guests, which are hardly ever less than twenty square feet. All the luxuries and conveniences of life may be had there, the COLUMniAN SKETCHES. OD Icad- thcre icrici. olden niiid, i>' of finest t.'iblc-scrvicc, magnificently appointed furniture polished out of shape, ball-rooms, music, and all the appurtenances of pleasure, while the hotel with all its costly appointments boasts of being the largest in the world. There are no fewer than 142 churches, tl.e most noteworthy of the Catholic churches being the Church of St. Ignatius and the Mission Dclores, the latter as being the oldest in the city, and constituting one of the historical landmarks of the place. Every visitor devotes a while to the Mission Dolores. A very remarkable building is the Jewish Synagogue, Emanu-El. The theatres are an important depart- ment, and there is being developed a great taste for theatre-going. Each Sunday evening the theatre supplies the place of vespers. Well, it is only an amusement after all, but then the amusing should not be carried too far. There are a great many parks tastefully kept, where the Friscians can retire and amuse themselves when their work is over. Most people visit Sutro heights, the private property of Adolph Sutro, and to which there is ready communi- cation by rail from the cit}-. Hither Mr. Sutro retired to enjoy the repose so well earned by a life of laboiir and energy, carving out for himself from the solid rock delightful grounds, and raising thereon his beautiful home overlooking the sea. At the distance it creates the impression of being a fort, ess with its high wall and n itches. This gentleman's tastes have been variously regarded, some speaking of him as the most practical of men, and others as the most eccentric. Twill be so to the end. And the beach, how charm- ing and health-giving ! Why not, too, visit the seal rock and view the sea-lions at their sport ? 256 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. The climate of San l-'rancisco is healthful and braciiiL^, never too hot and never too cold, there beintj but the two seasons, the wet and the dry, the former corresponding to our winter, the latter suminer. Hut there is nf) winter in our sense of the term ; rain, howrv\rr, is pretty incessant during the period taken up by winter with us. Occasional')' there arc gusts of sirocco winds in summer, which are very un- pleasant to strangers. h\)gs are not unusual, but in all, the city is very free from epidemics, and the death-rate is exceptionally low. The tl; natc along the I'acihc Coast everywhere is healthful, and with their natural facilities and resources one may with safety propheCj that Washington, Oregon, and Cali- fornia, will become three of the most important and populous states of the Union, and that in the near future. liesides, great encouragement is held out to immigrants, owing to the high standard of wages there. A word on the Yosemite Vallev and bi<'- trees, and then li have done. This valley is the property of the State, free to all comers. 'Tis about nine miles long, and one mile broad, situated in California, 140 miles from San I'rancisco. The wonderful feature of the valley is, that it is surrounded on all sides by giant wails of granite rising to a height sometimes of 6,000 feet, almost perpendicular. At the foot is a valley producing trc?s, flowers of ever}- luie, shrubs, and Indians of the most primitive design. And there are waterHiUs here, too, one with a drop of nearly three thousand feet ; but i am wearied sketching the traits ot water in America. J^rofessor Whitney has written a volume on the Yosemite, and for further information COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 257 read him. Whatcvcn- lie has to sa>-, don't miss the bic; trees. There is tlie Mariposa i^rove ri-ht at hand, and here are trees <.f hei-hts and widths that we never could dream of. One tree in tliis -rove is 94 feet in circumference, its first branch 200 feet from the -round, and measurinc,^ six feet in (hameter. Some of the trees rise to a hei-ht of -loo feet. Owinir to their symmetry of pri)porlions, they i\n n>.t by anp means seem so unwieldy as nii-ht be expjcted. Very important 'proves are the I'resno and C:alaveras, ...u,..,,, f.nn^.- nvn somewhat _ckfter_tiic^stylc 1 have described. At the World's l-air, there was on exhibi- tion a railway carriage, hewn wholesale, from a bi- tree trunk. Is not then .\merica by every ri-ht the country of superlatives ? |: 258 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. CHAPTER XXVIII.— DOWN SOUTH. SO far I have not touched upon the .Southcn; States, which, for many reasons, are a most in- teresting section of tht; country. The evening was dull and foggy, so I was laid u[) at my hotel, where an incident, to many insignificant, directed my course- Southwards. I forbear to mention my whereabouts, for my movements would be to ir.ost people as puzzling as chess-playing. I lere I was, and as the time hung heaviK", took to reading Mrs. Harriet l^cecher Stowe's exposition of slavery, '• Uncle Tom's Cabin." At length I lighted upon the passage, " Ran away from the subscriber my mulatto boy George. Said George si.x feet in height, a \ery light mulatto, brown curly hair ; is ver}- intelligent, s[)eaks handsomely, cm read ami write ; will probabl\- try to pass for a white man ; is deeply scarred on his back and shoulders ; has been branded in liis right hand with the letter 11. I will give four hundred dollars for him alive, and the same sum for satisfactory proof that he lias been killed." I, therefore, at once determined to go South, and view what was in days gone by the hap[)y hunting ground of all this barbarit\-, and meanwhile reserved further reading for the journey. For convenience sake, 1 next reveal myself at Heflin, 'abama, away down among the niggers, nearly one thousand miles from anybody who knew of my existence. Julius Casar ! What a countr\', where one makes a thousand miles at a bound, and can't reach the end ! Well, I put up at the Centnil COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. I li- as ail rsc 259 I lotcl, and here were my head([uarters. Such a centre for operations ! On the one hand tliere was a irreat supply of nifrfrcrs, on the other )-ellow fever, and thus I stood uncertain on whicli side I siiould be first victimised. But I tried to bear up in tlie crisis, and forget my position. 'Twas kite when I arrived at the Central, just in time for supper, ant! felt somewhat relieved when I found m^'sclf divorced from the burly negro who carted my tra[)s from the depot, and was my guide hither. During the term I xerily believe ho asked mc more questions than I could have satisfactoril)- answered since. .Supper was well over when I took m\' place, but there was still a plentiful suppl}-, and I set to su\) on CLTlIs and bacon, fried chicken corned cxcecdintrK', and cr,ffce, which to me tasted so musty as to remind mc of a nightmare among cellars. This sort of be\e- rage is a favourite with the Americans, and Europeans gradually come to like it. The process was parti- cularly slow in 111)' case. There was on the occasion Ijttle conversation, and 1 could see that my unexpected intrusion marred thi' general [)leasantr\'. One dis- appeared now, another again, until I found ni}-self in sole possession, when, horrors I my former cicerone reappeared strangely transformed into a waiter, and, grinning good-himiourcdl)', offered his services. In the interval he must have occupied his time in making out an additional list of interrog itories, carefulb' prej^ared and ready for use. The inquiries ran some- what thus: — Wher.ce I came, where I was going, if I intended to remain long, if I had been to New York, what it looked like, were coloured folk employed much as waiters, and if I would use my influence to ' 26o COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. secure him a place. This is but the smallest fraction of the whole, and gives but the least idea of the course of examination to which I was subjected. At len^^th I came to rcijard it my turn, and proceeded accord- iuL^l)-. " Wiiat is your name ? " I asked. The African threw me a patronisini^ look, and be;j^an answering very good-naturedly, displaying a readiness to deal out in- f(jrmation as well as to acquire. " My name," he said, " is Jack M'lVIurray." " In the name of wonder, how did you come to be called Jack MMurra)' ? " " Well, boss, it was this way. In liie time (jt the slave trade the slave went by the name of the owner, and d'ye sec, changeil with the next. M)' father's boss at de time de coloured folk was all freed was M'Murray,and dat's how de thing hapi)ened." The e.xplanation seemed to me in every respect s itisfactory, and expressed myself .so. This is but one of the many (]uestions he answered witli a good deal of intelligence, and appeared to en joy the whole proceedings immenscl)-. In the South tlie niggers are very much different from their brethrc!! of the North., and one recognises this at a glance. Their manner is exceedingly servile, with entirely too much of that grinning condescension, which makes you ashamed of )'our su[)eriority. No doubt this is the natural outcome of a system which shall continue for long to disgrace the dee institutions f)f the ccjuntry. and it could hardl\' be expected that the brutality practised for generations shijuld all at once, with the declaration of freedoin, cease in its effects. Yes ; the slaves have been .s<,'t free after a long ;nid bitter struggle, and in many respects the most disas- trous of civil wars. In the North they are i)crfectly free, enjoying all the rights and advantages of free COLUMHIAN SKFTCHES. 261 of of I (I- atj citizens ; in the South freedom \a the name, sla\ery the reality. There they are not permitted to travel in the same compartment with the white folk, and at each stopi)in[4 may be seen in great placards, " Coloured people's waiting room," whence, tlcmure and heartless looking negro men and women pour forth. 'Tis the same in every other department. The nigger is free in the e}'es of the State and in theory, but in practice he is as much the nigger as ever. The [)roud Southern well remembers that the nigger was the cause of all his trouble, the slaughterer of iu's bitjtricr and fathcr- — tliat indirect]}- he brought about a civil war, which in its dread details is unsurpassed in the annals of warfare. Merc man rose not against the enemy of his country, but against his own countryman, his friend, his kinsman, his brother. Members of the same famil)- tf)ok different sides, and, fighting in opposing ranks, met in deadl\- coiiHict, brother against brother, and s(jn against father. This latter incident is, perhaj).-, the most memorable throughout the whole .scene, and the effect when dramati.sed is truly touch- ing. While the fearful work was in progress the negro lay at home skulking behind the [)rotection of his owner or owner's household in tears to be retained in his slavery, and expressing his [)erfect .satisfaction with things as they had been. Next day brought the news of the tragic end of some member of the famil)' who fell a victim to i)rinciple, and the unhaj^py nigger was buffeted accordingly. WeU might the Southern say, "Why all this sentiment? Why waste un- necessary blood to better the condition of a people that are satisfied with their present?" Yes, that is well enough, but there were coloured folk of superior 262 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. intelligence, who deplored their servitude, and 'twas their cries and tears along with the march of civilisa- tion that aroused the public sympathy. In cases, it is true, they were as well cared for as any member of the family, and came to be regarded as favourite play- things, but hardly ever as responsible beings endowed with immortality. Just as we have known favourite lambs and such like to become part and i)arcel of the family, and have known great heart-breakings esi)ecially among the youthful mcjnbers,_jit4)arting^„ with these favourites, in the same way were the re- lations between slave and owner. Sometimes there was a pretty clear understanding between them that the slave should always, on continuing trustworthy, and showing no aspirations for liberty, remain an attach*'* to the famil)'. On the other hand, some traded off their slaves, and supplied their places with others cheaper or dearer, as the case might be, as farmers their stock ; while there were those who gave tlieirsole attention to this line of business, and gauued the article or spoke of its perfections as dealers with us in the market place. The [)artings of members of the same family, brother from brother, sister from sister, and husljand from wife, uu the occasion of such sales as described b)- one (jf them who was a passive actor ill the drama greatl}' affected me. As the pcjor slave was not recognised as a citi/cn, or, better say, not human at all, his married relation.swere cemented and broken off entirely according to the caprice of his owner, who throughout consulted solely his own interests. And to such an extent was the public mind dem.oraliscd that men in their thirst for mammon shrank tiot from selling \u the best l)idder their own COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 263 cliildrcii, the fruit of their unnutunil depravity. A better state of thin^ijs has come to pass, and the ni;^*L;jer is now no more subjected to chains and whippings on the sh'ghtest pretext, made to run away and lloLjged to deatli for so doing, branded and marked as an irrational beast, and subjected to all the more humilia- tion and degradation in proportion as nature gave him a Iceencr sense of his intolerable position. It is true all this is changed, but there are still very tangible .remnants of slavery remaining. The master is all the while unable to regard the slave as his equal, and still retains his inborn prc.'judices, so that even yet, when- ever a pretext can be made out, the poor negro is mobbed. Let a robber\', or burning, or murder occur in a white setilcment, and instantly a band cf whites, interested in the public peace ! on circumstantial evidence, if any evidence at all, set out for tlie homo of the suspect, and there without one moment's notice, and without giving a moment for explanation, hang him to the nearest tree, sometimes with his head (low nwards, and there, subjecting him to all manner of barbarity, have him summaril)' executed. And, what is worse, foremost in the gang is the actual perpetrator of the crime alleged, who ado[)ls this method of ward- ing olT suspicion. There is an appeal, of course, and a hunt for the murderers. By whom? l^y the hereditary enemies of this race, who are pained ex- ceedingly that they are now forced to recognise any negro rights whatever. What a burlesque on justice, law, and order ! 1 culled here and there scrappings from the daily [)apers, with incidents of tho.se sum- mary executions, in their ("iendish cruelty so revolting that I could not think of reproducing them. •I |i| COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. One day I had a conversation with a former slave holder on this subject. " How on earth," I said, "did you people think of retaining slaves ; and now that they arc slaves no longer, why not emancipate them thoroughly? " Mad I not been a foreigner, he would have probably treated mc merely to a proud look of disdain, but, as I was, his haughty Southern blood bubbled to its height, and he endeavoured to set mc right in my impressions. "Well," he answered, " when you know as much abouMhc_nlggoji-as_X-d&r -yau'tl~T^"TlTarsIav(5ry was (juite the thing for him ; he can't be trusted, and must be kept down." I could not see the logic of this, but didn't say so. Do not all tyrants justify themselves in the same way? This is the very argument which our neighbours are using against us. The)' first tried to make us barbarians, and next told the world we were. This much, how- ever, can be said for slavery in America — it is pretty certain the slaves were no worse treated there than in the country whence they came, and, besides, while men shudder at the thought of slavery in the most civilised communities, there is not a word about capital pun- i.shment, wherein man assumes supreme power over the life of his fellow. My first night in Alabama I shall not easily forget. 'Twas late, and I was wearied, but the clear moonlight beyond anything I had witnessed before led me un- consciously to survey my surroundings. I must have gone for miles before adverting to the fact, charmed with the pleasant coolness, the absolute quiet in happy contrast to the whirring of cable and electric cars, and all the noise and bustle so peculiar to great cities. At places there was the chirping of the cricket, the COLUMIilAN SlvKTCHES. :6; strange yet sweet warbliiiL^ of the bird rorL;ctrul of l!ie ni;_;ht, the ba\' of the watch-doi; in tlic distance, so very like a similar servant of ni)- acciuaintance at home that I felt transported tiiither on the spot, the lauv^h afar so loud and vaeant, and its echo, all burst at times on tlu- monoloiu'. And then the sweet odours from the trees, the road so soft as velvet to the tread, antl I tiie sole sojcjurner there, the little purlinL,^ stream hard b\', the cotton fields so white beneath the moon- li;dit cncl'.anted h.e, and made me feel this reijion was created for some su[)erior beings. In course of time I reached the Central, bewildered with the beauty of the scene around, but henceforward found it neccssar\- to descend to the level of ordinary mortals. And in proof let me state that: this fashionable hotel, which complete!)- outtlistanced anything of its kind in the locality, was csing table and half a window blind made out the furniture in its entiretv* ; hete I was, and all the niggers might look and wonder how I slept, and pass on. Morning came, leaving me nothing worse fi)r the si)are furniture and sparer bed-clothes, and I duly arranged to take a survey of the place by da)'light 'Twas delightful I lit! 266 COLUMBIAN SKETCIII-b. I I summer, and cvcrytliiiiL]^ looked its best. I must say I never felt the South intolerably warm, and to me the difference between the heat of North and South was Jack was still my adviser, and returned lin to the story of the restaurant in \ew I declared, for jjcacc sake, probabK- ter. There was a funeral in the village, ith entered on a lon^i,^ account of the de- ceased, her L;;enial (lualilies, her many virtues, and > I )oke something'" about a siKir '''->;"-• '•■/-■■■■•>^ *'■ rnrxTTcnrr not easil)' be closed in. The general topic of tb.e ;^roup^ of villni^ers here and there was somewhat after ihe same;, and made me feel that even away down at llcflin, i)eople can afford at leni^th U) say a kind wovd of the ilead. There was little ceremon\' in eoinuclion with the funiM-al arrangements, and the corlei^i-, in- cluding an (ipni waggon l^r a hearse, and se\erai improvised vehicles, with men in gteat white hats, and women in greater ; un boimets — a)'e, aiul children — proceciled on a I'Mig", wearisome journc)- to the cemeter\- in i)erfect sileiice. 'I'liu tAxi.t ilid not ex- hibit, at least externall}-, sd much of that ■solemn mourning as is usual with u>,, but still I was greatly impressed b\' the procession, and ciiiltl not help thinking how lillU; people at one end of tiu' world know of the other, its ))e':-i)le, their sorrows, aiui their jo)'s. The fuiH-ral past, like (Juixole out on adventures, ve I'.ext came upon a cart of water-melons and its owner, who was bent upon dis[)osing of the wlujle or part to the best advantage. IMy guide inunediatel>' struck, and would or could proceed uu farther. I was at once solicited for a water-melon, and com[)lie(l ; the retpiest was repeated, and I ccjmjilied, ])ut in such COLUMBIAN SKETCIIDS. 267 and I I a way th.'it 'twas not deemed advisable to advance on tlie same lines an}- more, and, therefore, I was per- mitted to rest and watch the result. There was, in the first instance, a long tedious barj^ain, and next a full half-dozen niggers were called in to partake. Among the brethren there was no small amount of disaj^point- mcnt when I refused to be a sharer. One hideous face turned u ) in surprise, as if to say, " Well, that anybody would refuse a water-melon ! " I watched the o[)crations ciosciy, an i icarricu a gocnl du.d abuuL the better dissectioii of a water-melon that served me prodigiously afterward.s. or the South generally it ma)- 1)3 said 't his a climate and soil fit for anything, but which arc being utilised for nothing ; business is at a stand-still, and the folk lie up and nurse their wounds, ruminating U[)on the h irdshij)s to which they were subjected during the Civil War, and read_\' to fight if the time cnmes. ICveiy place mi)' be seen a veteran wanting an arm or l.'g. with the wild look of the battle-field in his face, an 1 i)rri)ared to talk at any moment of the camp, and Northern, or, as he prefers, Yankee cowardice and cruelty. The late war plunged the Southerns hopelessly into debt, while the Xortherns, the victors, were recompensed for their services by the State. I\Tf)re settled heads appear to think tint if half the money expendrd in warfare had l)een dcx-oted to purchasing the slaves and setting them at liberty the vexed cpie-;t!on might thu-; be more amicably settled, and all the dire destruction of human life averted, l^e this as it may, tiie evil consequences arc t(X) palpable in the South, and the country is partlx' in waste or dotted with little wooden ricketv negro iP MH IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 1^ IM ■^ !■■ IIIII22 ^ IA& lllllio 6" 1.8 U 11.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MS80 (716) 872-4503 »",% ^^y 263 COLUMBIAN SKETCHFS. shanties, or villages, or cities, none of which of very- great importance. There are a few cities of some note, such as New Orleans, and Atlanta, and even they are not at all comparable to the cities of the North. The Southern is naturally haughty, refined and generous, ready to resent an injury or insult to the last, slow to make friends, and slow to lose them, a charming companion, talks sweetly, is a good friend, but a dangerous enemy. COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 269 ! ry ic -y h. id le a CHAPTER XXIX.— THE PRESENT AND FUTURE OF THE UNITED STATES. THE population of the United States is being constantly recruited from the various countries of the world. It is questionable if the new recruits are always useful, or even ornamental. The Govern- ment appears to think otherwise lately, and sets a guard upon the ports, with the object of excluding undesirable immigrants. I observe the Chinese are wholly excluded, while those already resident arc dis- franchised. Notwithstanding all this precaution, Europeans especially who have long studied and practised to hoodwink authority manage to make up a face penitential enough for the occasion and effect a landing, despite the keenest surveillance of the lynx-eyed officers. Americans themselves acknow- ledge they receive the best and the worst of every country. The latter is particularly true ; and, as to the rest, comparatively few have courage enough to break off the home associations into which the)- have been born, and risk all the probabilities of an alien clime, undergoing the strain of forming new connec- tions, if the current moves smoothly homewards, and they arc able to eke out a sure if scanty existence. Those must be excepted, however, who are too proud to be menials at home, and yet feel nowise demeaned by undertaking the humblest duties of the kitchen in America. To treat of the United States and its heterogeneous 270 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. inhabitants is a task involving no little difficulty. 'Tis worse than unfair; 'tis malicious to paint as Americans the numberless human curios the traveller encounters here and there on an extended tour of the country. Vet this has been done over and over agam, and the article set up in our market v^ith nothing but the American brand genuine. No wonder most of the writers who have undertaken the task were roughly handled, and that Uncle Sam is suspicious of future inroads. He has had pretty hard treatment at the hands of the various debutants, from Trollope to O'Rell, and 'tis well if his sorrows are even yet ended. Paul I^louet, better known as Max O'Rell, is about the last who has invaded the department. His book, like the author, is a very remarkable production, and gives a very fair picture of men and manners, with the ludicrous side uppermost. The Americans regard it as a piece of good-natured folly ; the author speaks of it himself as notJiing more. Notwithstanding, Max as a lecturer on his favourite topics, as well as a sar- castic portraycr of the freaks and foibles of men, has few equals. The American notes of Charles Dickens gave much more offence, and up to the present they bitterly lament their injustice. His work on America is commonly regarded a mistake, his retraction, uni- versally a blunder. To my mind, he has said nothing of the Americans which is not applicable in a greater or less degree, except when he touches their political institutions, to the people of any country. Had he not fallen into what an American, once speaking to me on the subject, described " as the only dark spot on a great and glorious career," he could have counted his admirers by thousands, and his little Nell would COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 271 as Icr he in, have been the central fif^urc in every children's party, while the author should be exalted into a demigod. As it is, they read the British oppressor through the kindlydiearted Dickens. In the spiritual world, 'tis a common quotation, "all roads lead to Rome." In the material, 'lis the converse, and all roads may be said to lead to Ameri ■ •. All eyes arc to the Great Republic, and although w^. know of its existence, and have some general idea it is productive of gold, and silver, and statesmen, and orators, and authors, and business-men, and cranks, we have very little knowledge of the private affairs of the family and trouble uursclves less. The American attitude is quite different towards us, and our notables are known across the Channel equally well as with our- selves. This fact is duo to the press, which usually devotes a column to us in each issue, while in cases the whole paper is almost exclusively devoted to our affairs. America has many claims upon us. We are connected by mnnbcrlcss tics of friendship and blood, and should at least ahva\'s know what is uppermost. Our press furnishes us with little information, ex- cusing itself one while on the plea there is too much on hands at home to trouble with the affairs of our neighbours, and again as foreign dishes are not in demand, 'tis necessary to deal out hash of our own. \\c are, therefore, left dependent on writers mostly English, who describe with infinite pains sections of the country they never visited, and thiust deadly darts at society and its customs, to which they failed to secure an introduction. A good book on America would be a great blessing, all the more for its rarity. To keep pace with the rapidly increasing population, ;!;H his ' li 27'' COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. the development of tlie t^n'cat cities, many of which rise from the Caroline! as by mac^ic in less tlian a decade and become important, as well as the social changes that arc taking place yearly, such a work should be produced every tenth year. The Americans are a progressive people, and adapt themselves to the re- quirements of the time, except when George Wash- ington speaks. George's way must prevail, let who else be the sufferer. That the leather of the Republic was far in advance of his lime, and a great prophet and deliverer of his country, goes unciuesttoncd J^ut there arc many points in the Gonstitution which, I have little doubt, lie would giadU- change were he living in these our days and saw with, his own eyes the difficulty of reconciling to one pariiciilar code the people of so many nations, so widely different in race, religicjn, and sympathies. The very moment Jonath;in seeks to improve upon the ways of Washington, even though the mo\-cd amendment is in every way superior, that moment he ceases to be a patriot. Wliat is patriotism ? Patriotism means nothing if it has not for its object to make men happier and better. The title is hardh* applicable to the faddist. American law is in a goodly measure founded on the Piritish, as is natural, con- sidering it prevailed up to the Declaration of Independence. There are many points of difference, however. The American father cannot wholly disin- herit his son, even though he has substantial grounds for so doing, and again the illegitimate child can claim the patrimony of the intestate parent, if it can be shown the latter acknowledged the former. In conversation with a stickler for American institutions I commented somewhat severely on this fact. I\Ty friend turned V COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. - / O Ic DC a upon me with a corresponding severity, and directed me to return to luigland, and have expunged the codicil whcrcb}' the British supremacy is made over to the Rox'al ]'\'imily or the natural issue, and I should then be in a better position to lecture Americans on this little concession of theirs. In order to give anything like a satisfactory account of America three neat portable volumes should be at least required — one treating of its society, another its scener}', and a third of its institutions. As to ni}- [)re- vious references on American society, I have little to add, and nothing to retract. The Americans, I still claim, arc not a hiL^hlx' cultured people. This is not due to their ignm-ance of what should be done, and their desire to do it. There is no one who knows better what to do, and is so anxious to do it, as the American. The fact is he knows too much, and is too anxious about details. If it takes three .gener.itions to make a sjentleman, I'm afraid Uncle Sam is not )'et old enough. In a new country, which boasts of its freedom :ind spirit of independence, people are too liable to take liberties of action and speech, which are not c^uite consistent with good society. Impudence ai.d independence are more than likel)' to get mixed up. I have heard it asserted over and over again that the typical American docs not }'et exist. It may be, but I'm contident I have encountered a host of individuals who were willing to be regarded as typical Americans, The wc)uld-be typical American invites you to his home, and does all in his po^'-er to make you happy and ^aL ease. He prepares for you a sumptuous re])asr'; in fact, it, too, is the "best in tlie world." In It ! 2/4 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. this even he cannot allow himself to be second. You sit with his family and friends. A variety of fruits must be dealt with, to which )-ou are partially a stranger. And, wonderful to relate, there is an Irish stew in the centre, utterly different from all other Irish stews of your acquaintance. He has heard many things of the Irish, as Puck and Judge have them, and is not exactly favourably predisposed. To his mind the average Irish immigrant is a punster- ing barbarian, not exactly dangerous, but in want of a little civilising. Tammany Hall undertakes his education, and during the process he turns out a knave. Such is \'Our host ; and he is now face to face with a live Irishman, and must not lose his opportunities. While he is absorbed in dealing out liberally of the good things, he loses no opportunity to watch h(jw you eat \-our (his) corn. If you blunder he represses his smiles ; Airs. Jonathan chuckles, and little Miss Jonathan laughs outright, and 'tis well if she don't set to tell the story of tliC Irishman and the hash. Jonathan is now pleased his country has such a keen observer as Puck, and that Judge has judged aright. If }'our host is Irish wVa) has made his way to his present position by whatever methods, he has some idea it is not c^uitc in keeping with his high social status to laugh at your blunders ; but he pities them, and i evolves in his mind a series of recollections of those da}\s, dark and dreary, when he himself knew no better. I shall not tackle tliis Yankee Irish stickler further, lest in the excitement I might become forgetful, and over- balance. The American home, if as happ}-, is certainly not happier than ours. Uncle Sam can change his wife as he COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 2/5 changes his President, and pays a large yearly in- come to the professional farceur for vilifying and defaming both. Jonathan is in many respects a complex combination. lie spends a great deal of his time in heaping abuse on his country, and impugr.- ing the motives (.A its statesmen, and yet he is ready to resent to the last an insult or injury to cither by outsiders, lie takes great delight in recounting his victories, and his success in clearing out British tyranny, and }-et he forgets the host of tyratits he created instead. Sometimes he awakes to a sense of his position, and proclaims if he had yet to sign the Declaration of Independence he should have the clause inserted, " servants to give civil answers some- times, clean boots if required, and be otherwise obliging ; nf) Tammany Hall." As it is, he directs Bridget to supply his bed-room with water. " What did yese say?" exclaims Bridget. "Sure yese don't mane to say any crature is to carry a jug full of walhcr up three flights of stairs in a free countrie." Tb.e argument is unanswerable, and thus piqued on American independence, and beaten with his own club, he is forced to convert his sleeping compartment into a private barber's shop for himself and, at most a ^c\v select friends. But the American is in\-entive, and swears he will corner Bridget somewhere, and sets her to polish the stove, and the hall knocker, and if she dares to resist he tells her, ^Trs. Washington did so, and that she papered walls, and was generally neat, and therefore in the second engagement Bridget is routed. Don't be alarmed ; she shall have something else to do besides gazing on the stars and stripes. American independence elevates and places the :f ^i'' H 2/6 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. • fortunc-scckcrs from this realm in the happy position of beini^ obliged to do twice their former work, with a good deal less than twice their former pay. Mrs. Jonathan, too, thinks she could improve on the inde- pendence clauses, and urges the necessity of '• six months' notice at least, before orders to quit." 1 had this and many other vicious things in my mind when I congratulated a Chicago man on the benefits of a free countr}-. The porker read me, and with a si}- look answered, " Oh, yes ; it is a great advantage to be born in a countr\' where if \-ou haven't boots you 9 * can go without them." An American social gathering is a brilliant affair. Festoons and flowers in rich profusion is the order, and all arc animated and convivial, even though man}- hearts are breaking after the ball. The American men arc dark of complexion and sparse of flesh ; the American women comparatively slight, of a muddy pale complexion, and hair neither dark nor fair, yet inclining both wr}'s. As complexion varies with climate, it can be understood that the Western women are differently complexioned from their Eastern sisters. They are generally blamed for keeping too much in- doors. The American home is naturally a hothouse in summer, and artificially in winter ; and as a result the flower does not look to advantage under exposure. ]-5esidcs, their constant attendance at theatres, and balls, and various social entertainments is not cal- culated to improve their good looks, not to speak of their reckless use of pastry, and confectionery, and other pretty trifles sweeter than wholesome. "Ameri- can women are perfectly horrid," said an English lad)' to me on board a Cunarder, somewhere mid-ocean. COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. '^11 ion 1 a Irs. Ic- .si\ ul CM \ I}- to ou "111 wliat respect?" I timidly inquired. " Tliey arc colourless, and expressionless. Don't you think so?" she insisted sharply. " I am really not an adept in such matters," I whined piteously. " Pardon me ; ex — •oh! isn't that the dinner bell?" Tlie English lady's estimate may be correct, but they arc not dress- less. Pay attention ! Mrs. W, K, Vanderbilt spends on pin-money (dress understood) ^20,coo ye;uly ; Mrs. T. Ilavemeycr £\^,OQO ; Mrs. G. Gould, ^lo.oco ; Mrs. J. J. Astor, ^8,ooo ; i\Irs. P. Stevens, ^^4,000 ; all of New York. This is something; to excite the jealousy of England's fairest and best. lUit America's Queen, Mrs. Cleveland, devotes only ;^200 yearly to the same purpose. I can't find quotations of un- married ladies' pin-money. Probably such a quota- tion would be open to libel. The American girl, however, enjoys liberties which none gainsay, and which are to us a matter of surprise. She comes and goes as and when she likes, and even travels abroad all alone. When married 'tis different. She is no longer quite free, and must not take liberties out of keeping with her position as matron of the house- hold, otherwise she shall return one day to her mansion to be confronted with the poster, " New wife wanted ; inquire within." The thing is just contrari- wise .with us. In America women take a try-hand at most things. They are occasionally lawyers, physicians, ministers of religion, litterateurs, and very frequently on the press, some of the latter earning as much as i,'20 per week. Madam Jonathan's attitude is likely to secure for her a good deal of notoriety, and yet she claims she nas tact enough to remain womanly. Personally, I agree with him who said, among many ' i .' 2 7cS COLUMBIAN SKETCIirS. 1 ! other good things, the best women are those that arc least known. As to American authors, they arc now counted b)- hundreds. A century ago and the Tnited States had scarcely an author of distinction ; to-day its httcratcurs are too numerous to mention, and of world-wide repu- tation. If it be true there is iiothing new under the sun, it is doubl}' so in literature, for that field is being laboured from the commencement of the world e\en until now, and the same little discoveries exhibited anew, but in a slightly different garb. The American litterateur is a keen observer, and he observes this. Consequently he puts his inventive brain to work, and occupies his spare hours in setting orthograph}-. etymology, syntax, and proscxly at defiance, and heaping ridicule upon men and manners. As to such Artemus Ward, Max Adler, Josh l^illings, Mark Twain, Bill X}'e, A. IC. Sweet, are some of the many who find or have found amusement in this department. American humour is usually of a rough t3'pe,sometimes low, aiui is about equall}' expended on trolley cars, restaurants, and senators. Humorous papers antl periodicals arc limitless : among which may be inen- tioned Puck, Judge, l!alh\ Texas Sif lings, PccJcs Sim, San Francisco JVas/f, Detroit free Press, and OiiiaJia World. I am bound to sa\- I have been whcjlly unable to recognise the Iri.shmen of l^uck and Jndg'c, or translate their language, although I have spent n-.ost of m\' years in that country, aiid have a fairly good knowledge cf tlie dialect in use. Ikit Puck finds amusement in the foolery, and Jndg't.', reasonably accredited with better judgment, follows suit, and no- body is the suffi'rcr. COLUMBIAN SKKTCIIF.S. 279 )\' I have referred to Amcriciin scenery. The scenery of America is equal to anything in the world. I shall not say the '• best." Everybody enjoys it but the American. That individual much prefers his rock- incr chair, his havannah, and chewinir cfum. I atl- verted to the fact at l^uffalo, where (juite a number lived and apparently intended to die, without visitini^ the wondrous Niagara Falls, within ' n hour's distance. A slim, sticklish, cranky-lookini; Yank turned to me antl asked, ''What is scencrv ? " I could not '^ct beyond tv/o words of the definition, and had to own myself beaten. He might as well have asked me — "What is truth?" Scenery, at all events, is some- thing pleasant to view and contemplate, and there is plenty of this material in America. I could suggest a thousand places where the tourist might visit, and bo well repaid for his p^ins. In addition to those I have alread}'- casual!}-, I must sa\', touched, I might mention Oil City and its vicinity, the Catskill ]\Ioun- tains, the dreamland of Rip Van Winkle ; the grottoes of the Shenandoah, the ^Mammoth Caves, Kcntuckx-, their underground river and eyeless fish ; Tampa Pjay, and the charming fruit groves of h'lorida. Of sights in the South, not entirely scenic, the Ponce de Leon 1 lotel is among the most remarkable. In this gigantic structure everything is done up to date, and to the best American methods. For scenery wild jind picturesque. Alaska, the latest acquisition of the United States, is unrixalled, and I look forward liopefully to the time when Juneau and Sitka will rejoice in the summer residences of many American millionaires. An(.i now I have only spare to refer briefly to •8o COLUMBIAN SKETCH F.S. American politics, and I am glad. ICvcry nation finds political matter sufficient for contemplation at home. America i.s pre-eminently the land of politics, if busivc epithets and ludicrous cartoons go to build a nation's reputation. Each recurring fourth year gives the Republican genius i)lenty of opportunity to dig deep into the fruitful American vocabular)', and ex- tract mud, sour and dirty enough, to pelt at political opponents. There ai e thetwo parties — Republicans and Democrats, and an outsider would have great difficulty in deciding in wliat respect the government of either would be inferior or superior. There arc besides the Farmers' Alliance and Populists, but these arc of no great consequence. During hostilities business is partly suspended, and men occupy their minds solelv with plotting the ruin of the enemy. Each party has its own hero, and, as too frequently happens, the hero is in the first instance a self-constituted one. The battle over, one is the victor, and, of course, the other the victim. One returns to his eipnlovment elated with success, the other to console nimself with prospects of better luck next time, and things go on a;? before. I was constantly, while in the countr\-, hearing of Mr. Gresham, Mr. Ct^kran, I\[r. M'Kinle}-, Mr Lamont, Mr. Hill, Mr. Wilson, Mr. Sherman, and the redoubtable Coxcy. " These," I said to m}'self, '' are the prophets of America." But, paradoxically, they arc more thought of at home than elsewhere. What do vvc know of them ? Will they be thankful for this bit of prominence ? The American Govern- ment has been proved over and over again to be corrupt, and yet its E.xchequer, at this moment, is re- plete with not less than ^"12.000,000. The English COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. :8l Government seeks to create influence by borrowing ; the American by lending. This much is certain, that on the day the British Government expires, and at the obsequies in particular the attendance shall be representative, if onl)- to hear the will read. It is different with the Republicans — if the accounting day came to-morrow they owe no man a penny. America is yet destmed to play a great part in the history of nations. 'Tis a great country, and the Americans know it. Their little boasting, which is pardonable under the circumstances, occasionally gets ihein into trouble. But, on the other hand, I don't see how those are to be pardoned who, practi- cally rejected by their own, find in America a home, where they arc petted, and patronised, fed, and clothed, and yet are ever ready to call down its institutions, find fault with its laws, and institute invidious comparisons. To one and all I would say — If America does not suit you go else- where ; but while in America be an American and do as the Americans do. For this bit of advice, I'm sure Jonathan will be grateful, and pardon my pointed references to himself and his country. He has discernment enough to know he is not perfect, and when I revisit his country he will receive me, I have no doubt, as cordiall\' as before, and we shall have a real good time, and hearty laugh over " Columbian Sketches." ■5 THE STAR SPANGLED BANNER. (Tltr . Imcn'caii Xitijttiil .liiiiuin.) Oil ! say can you -ee by the dawn's early light, What so proudly we hail'd at the twilight's last gleaming ! T I 1 282 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. Whose broad Stripes and bright Stars thro' the perilous fight, O'er the ramparts we watch'd were so gallantly streaming ? And the rockets' red glare, the shells bursting in air ! Gave proof thro' the night that our Flag still was there": — Oh 1 bay, does that Star-spangled Banner yet wave, O'er the land of the free, and the home of the brave ? On the shore dimly seen thro' the mists of the deep, Where the foe's haughty host in dread silence reposes — What is that which the breeze, o"er the towering steep, As it fitfully blows, half conceals, half discloses ? Now it catches the gleam of the morning's first beam, In full glory reflected, now shines in the stream ; And the Star-spangled Banner ! oh ! long may it wave, O'er the land of the free, and the home of the brrve ! And V here is that band who so vauntingly swore, That the havoc of war and the battle's confusion, A home and a country shall leave us no more ? Their blood has wash'd out their foul footstep's pollution I No refuge could save the hireling and slave, From the terror of flight, or the gloom of the grave ; And thi' Star-spangled Banner, in triumph doth wave, O'er ihe land of the free, and the hoTie of the brave ! O thus be it ever, when freemen shall stand. Between their lov'd home and the war's desolation ; Blest with vict'ry and peace, m:iy the heav'n-rescued'land, Praise the pow'r that hath made, and preserv's us a Nation. Then conquer we must, when our cause it is jusi, And ihii be our motto :— In (lod, is our trust ; And the Stai-spangled Banner, in triumph shall wave, O'ei- ihe land of the free, and the home of the brave. 1 ! il ilii i THE COUNTESS OF ABERDEEN. 1^ ■■I COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 28 ,1 CHAPTER XXX.-CANADA. I HAD been for a long time thinking how I could tour Canada on iny jr^urney, traversing the greatest possible space in the shortest possible time with profit. As can easily be imagined, endless schemes were devised, but, unhappily, fell to pieces just on the point of being carried into execution. Had any other individual in sight been guilty of such in- consistency I could have wished him at the uttermost end of the earth, but, in the present instance, I had a sneaking forgiveness for the offender. At length I made one tremendous effort, and succeeded, and then wondered wherein consisted all my previous difficul- ties. My first stopping was Toronto, and from this source I derived my earliest impressions of Canada. Heretofore I had looked upon that country as a vast territory of woodland and mountain with here and there log-cabin villages, and an occasional foolhardy settler whining away a miserable existence. Judge of my surprise when 1 found myself in the most delight- ful of cities, modern in every respect, and surpassing many of our most important capitals in the magnifi- cence of its buildings, shops, and streets. Toronto is a mostcharmin.; city, but not at all the most important in the Dominion. Montreal has a much larger population, while there are various cities besides, which give promise of becoming equally great and beautiful ; and thus it will be seen that Canada is a ver\- valuable possession, and there can be little doubt affurds abundant evidence of a glorious future. i It ■i I't i ! I Hi I ■ !•; 284 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. Few people of my acquaintance appear to have anything like an accurate idea of the vastness and importance of this great country. I remember having a little conversation with Uncle Sam on the subject of my prospective tour, and he assured me I could sec the whole of Canada and its couple million folk in the better half of a week, reminding me at the same time, in perfect sincerity, that it was not worth even so much trouble, I had, nevertheless, some misgiv- ings about the statement at the time, and had already become conversant with a host of reasons that pre- vented this individual from viewing his neighbour across the border with justice, and therefore reserved judgment for further inquiry. What is the fact ? Canada covers a larger area than the United States, stretching from the Atlantic to the Pacific Oceans, a distance of 3,500 miles, and containing, with its lakes, 3,519,000 square miles of surface. Of this, i,ooo,coo square miles are said to be yet unexplored. That the magnitude of the territory may be the better understood, 'tis well to state that it is twenty-nine times the ex- tent of the United Kingdom (England, Ireland, and Scotland). Now, the whole contains but a population something less than five millions,and thus there is nearly a square mile to the individual. It will, therefore, be easily seen that it is an immense country, and although a great deal of it is supposed to be worthless, it con- tains, nevertheless, some of the most excellent soil in the world, while it is productive abundantly of fish, game, wood unlimited, gold, silver, and various other metals. In the matter of mining there is com- paratively less attention given to this department than in the States, but still the precious metals have been 1 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 28^ found in river beds and such lii•• 29: COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. Thousand Islands, it may be stated one thousand is not thcexactnumb2r,butonc thousand seven hundred, dotting the river here and there, in all sorts of ways. Of these some are Canadian, others Republican, the boundary line between the two countries falling somewhere mid-stream ; some inhabited, some un- inhabited, some with beautiful residences, others no residence at all, some with excursion parties of Sunday School children and tourists, others utterly deserted, some extremely rocky and barren, others extremely fertile, and producing trees of goodly size, and wild fruit. All told, the scene was sublime, and I don't much wonder that numberless real and bogus poets have found inspiration amidst such surround- ings. COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 293 CHAPTER XXXI.— MONTREAL. ONCE more safe and at Montreal after many perils by water and some by land ! I had been hear- ing so much of this city for the few days previous that my imagination created a Montreal of its own, which Montreal displaced another Montreal created in that same region while in Europe. I need hardl}' add that the real Montreal supplanted both competitors utterly, and left nothing remaining. It has ever been my wont, on similar excursions, to picture in anticipation a city or place. In fact, the imagination did so of its own account, and without any struggle of mine. I can icmember, however, that the real and ideal were always widely dissimilar, and the real so utterly effaced all trace of the ideal that hardly in any case have I been able to resuscitate or recall it, no matter what the effort. It is of little moment what were my preconceived notions of Montreal. Everybody, like myself, I partly suspect, has preconceived notions of men and things, and 'twould be well if in many cases in regard to the former at least such prejudices could be forgotten. But generally preconceived ideas of places and things are easily removed or forgotten ; preconceived ideas of men seldom and only with an effort. Most people know that there is a Montreal, but most people don't know tliat Jacques Cartier, a Frenchman, was the first European who visited the spot, and to whom the foundation of the city may be attributed. Jacques, it would seem to mc, is one of those local celebrities,. sp \ I i t U- ; 1 i ! 294 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. greatly admired and esteemed at home, but treated with a good deal of indifference by the outside world. However this be, a good many French followed in his train, and in course of time the whole district became Frenchified. A city at the confluence of the St. Laurence and Ottawa Rivers was the outcome. Thomas D'Arcy M'Gee contributed somewhat, in the shape of a poem, to the memory of the departed com» modore. It runs : — In the serport of St. Malo, 'twas a smiling morn in May, When t' ' Commodore. Jacques Cartier, to the Westward sailed awa>. In the crowded old cathedral all the town were on th'ir knees, F'or the safe return of kinsmen from the undiscovered seas ; And every autumn blast that swept o'er pinnacle and pier Fill'd manly hearts with sorrow, and gentle hearts with fear. The ode goes on for seven stanzas much in the same strain, and tells of all the weeping and wailing of maidens and moth-^rs in the interim, and how he had been given up hopelessly for lost, when suddenly he reappears, to their great joy and jubilation, with a great supply of Indian legends, dark forest stones, hair-breadth escapes, and all the other concomitants of a perilous journey into a distant and hitherto un- discovered land. There is an easy flow about the poem, but, although it has found its way into the school books, I am not sure that it can ever secure for the author a lasting reputation as a poet. It will be remembered that the writer was assassinated at Ottawa on his return from the House of Commons, of which he was a distinguished member — a sad sequel to a very eloquent speech. It would appear Jacques Cartier was in no hurry to COLUMBIAN SKETCHLS. 295 return to the scene of his expedition, and a hundred years passed before his friends thought the experiment at all safe. The whole territory at length ^ell into the hands of the French, and everything was French. The lanirnac^e was French, the churches, which were after French fashions, multiplied with wonderful rapidity, priests and nuns representing niost of the Orders were everywhere, and town and suburbs, in fact, district, were so thoroughly French as to present the appearance of a slice of the ancient prototype with a hardly perceptible difference in climate. Montreal itself is a very beautiful city, yet hardly so new and generally neat as the " Queen City," Toronto. It has a magnificent harbour, and, though five hundred miles from the broad Atlantic, steamers of all sizes find easy access there. The traffic at the quays is something enormous, and com- pares favourably with that of the briskest seaports of the States. The town is very regular, and the build- ings substantial, the whole very much ai'ter the style of an Fnglish city of similar extent. It has electric cars, too, which I can state from experience might be more safely advertised to go, " weather permitting." I was in a great hurry somewhere, and sought the cars that I might arrive there all the sooner. Suddenly there was a stopping, with a tearing-up sensation that frightened everybody, myself included. " What does all this mean ? " I asked a fellow-traveller, who appeared to know everything about causes and effects in electricity. " A break-down and the weather," he answered promptly. I was sorry for this once, that science had not yet been able to control the elements, A very notable feature of the city i\ COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. is its churches, the . Cathoh'c churches, of course, entirely outstripping all others in number and magni- ficence. Notre Dame is a splendid building Intended to rival the celebrated church of its name in Paris. 'Tis without doubt a magnificent structure, but, not- withstanding, falls very much short of its rival. There was in construction at the time of my visit a very beautiful church after the style of St. Peter's in Rome, and is to go by that name, which, although much smaller than its original, will be when completed the finest not only in Montreal, but on the whole Atncrican Continent. Colleges and convents arc everywhere^ and the priests, after the manner of their profession in France, walk the streets in soutanes and togas, with low broad-brimmed furred hats, mustering quite as strong comparatively as in the I'rench cities. The people have the reputation of being very devout, and the churches at all the devotions arc everywhere crowded, while their demeanour is a very marked im- provement on that of their neighbours of the Republic. This has been my experience in Canada generally. Speaking of demeanour in church, it might not be out of place to mention a trifling drama in the Canadian capital, Ottawa, in which I was myself an unwilling and passive actor. The morning was bitterly cold, and yet I had early taken my place at the Cathedral on Sunday, where Archbishop Duhamel was announced to preach. Gradually the church began to fill, and I remained in a sort of listless indifferent mood, expecting the ceremonies to com- mence, apprehending absolutely no danger. At length a party of four arrived, including two ladies and two gentlemen, and refused to be seated until I i 1! COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 297 ^ course, d rnaornf- should decamp with all my belongings. They must have been mumbling threats in Canadian French a considerable time before I adverted to their presence at all, and even then stood puzzled as to the signifi- cance of this strange condi :t. At length a lady, with a countenance at no time attractive, but terrible to look upon in wrath, took the unheard of liberty of well nigh tugging me forth. I had not the presence of mind in my perplexity to offer resistance and obeyed the commands. It is well to state I was at once offered quarters in the immediate neighbourhood ; and the most ludicrous part was, that I was the recipient shortly of a personal French apology. But it would work no how. I am not sure that an apology can ever cure the harm done in such cases ; blundering, therefore, is a blunder. For myself, I have been fre- (juently in moods now and then during life, but never felt so thoroughly out of temper with myself and everybody as on that occasion. The sermon, however, of the Archbishop, which was very moderate and practical, soothed me somewhat, and his reference to Christian resignation was particularly applicable to my case. He spoke in Canadian French, but very accurately, and every word was perfectly articulate. The preaching lasted thirty-five minutes, and the preacher frequently during the time appealed to his notes, and did not seem to be alarmed lest the audience should make the discovery. His gesticula- tion was not at all so frequent nor so violent as is usual with preachers in France, yet the subject matter, carefully handled, and well articulated and emphasised at parts, was highly effective. The people throughout were most respectful and attentive. I was perfectly u r h- i ■! 1 i 29S COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. delighted with everything I saw v^t" the Cathedral, ex- cept the ill-favoured Canadian-Fi ench lady and her party, and must frankly own I liave not seen the ceremonies better carried out since I forsook the Eternal City. The best view of Montreal and its surroundings can be had from ]\Iount Royal, from which, according to some, the city derives its name. I made the experi- ment in charming weather, and felt fully recompensed for my pains. Nestled at my feet lay the city, with its tapering church towers, its busy harbour, the Victoria Railway Bridge two miles in length, under which we passed but a few days before in full sail, and the de- lightful country so flat stretching away into the distance until it lost itself in the haze — all presented a beautiful picture. This was well enough, but in try- ing to make further experiments in and around Mount Royal I lost my way and kept losing and finding myself for hours until I came to a standstill, wholly uncertain which way to turn, and afraid to sit, afraid to flee. At length a guide and comforter arrived in the shape of a well-dressed citizen out for an airing. I had some doubts about his integrity for the time, partly arising from the confusion consequent on my wanderings, which made my brain generally suspect- ful, and partly from a host of robbery and murder stories I had been hearin.g the few days previous. H turned out, however, to be the right person, polite and ob''jing, and, although much better versed in French than English, could make himself well understood. Having set me right he suddenly disappeared with the most graceful of bows, wishing me safe. 'Tis wonderfully strange that the French in Canada l'\ COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 299 •everywhere, after centuries of transplantation, retain their native language, somewhat, to be sure, degene- rated, native manners even to the smallest gesture, native customs, everything, in fact, French, so much so that one could easily imagine them arrived by the latest packet. I must say I have never seen more handsome faces than amongst these transplants. They looked the most handsome of the French, all the more handsome for being transplanted, and still improving beneath the fostering influence of a climate even more favourable to the complexion apparently than that of their ancestors. I have heard them blamed for being thriftless, and for neglecting to turn to better account their opportunities. It is true there are many of them poor and without energy, but, on the other hand, there are many of them the leading men in all the departments, and generally an orna- ment to the land of their fathers as well as that of their adoption. Part of the time intended for Montreal was spent in visiting the places of interest in the vicinity. One very brisk sunny morning, in company with a tourist from some town in the Sta:cs, whose name I have not, after repeated efforts, been able to recall, I took occasion to see the Indian village Caughnawaga, a few miles distant from the city. I felt a good deal nervous about entering on this excursion, and was half afraid of being scalped. However, I determined to feel my way, and disappear as scon as possible with the first approach of danger. But, danger ! there wasn't the shadow of danger, and the poor Indians were quite civil and ci\ ilizcd, and those of them who spoke English manifested an anxiety to give all the .•^oo COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. ■■I i information in their power. The village had the ad- vantage of two schools, one male and the other female, which were a goodly distance apart. For want of better employment I visited the schools — first, the female school, where I found two French-Canadian ladies, seemingly sisters, very polite and communica- tive, and at the same time very much interested in their charge. What amused me most was, to find them teaching English lessons to Indian children, who understood only the Indian language, wli'lc they them- selves spoke English very imperfectly. I am informed that a something similar happens in the schools with ourselves in the Irish speaking districts. The male school was in charge of a promising young Indian, who spoke the English language perfectly, as well as Indian and French. He received us very kindly, and displayed a willingness to answer all our queries, and that, too, with marked intelligence. His dress was quite the style, and he sported a fashionable albert chain, which might easily be mistaken for gold. Altogether, were it not for the too aquiline nose, the pointed chin, and high cheek bones, he might easily be taken for a European, and a rather presentable one. He spoke upon a variety of subjects with great clearness and accuracy, and regretted the general unpopularity of the Indians in America, and that they were not personally represented among the legislators of the country. I took the libcrt)- of ask- ing him for an autograph, which he supplied without a moment's hesitation, but which, much to my astonishment, ran — G. M. Jacobs, Caughnawaga. The handwriting was magnificent, yet tho name puzzled me exceedingly, and I requested an explanation. He COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 301 then informed me that the Indian name was Ka-na- wa-cin-ton (which signifies swampy), and that it degenerated owing to intermarriages. I was greatly interested in this young Indian teacher, and was pleasantly disappointed at finding him so intelligent. The houses of the villagers, which were of wood, looked scattered about in all sorts of ways, with hardly any attempt at order, and were rudely constructed. They wee all Catholics, and the church, occupying a square of its own, was wooden too, and hard by was the home of the pastor, of the s \me material. At present they arc perfectly civilised, as well clothed as their non- Indian neighbours, and make good practical Catholics. In all, I have not had a more interesting visit in the country, than that to Caughnawaga. 1 1 i i 1 1 302 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. CHAPTER XXXII.-CANADA J 'ERSC'S THE UNITED STATES. THE Canadians generally are vcr}- loyal subjects of the British Empire, and I have frequently heard them professing their allegiance to her Most Gracious Majesty when out of place, and very much uncalled for. There is absolutely no reason why they should be dissatisfied with the British governing, except the fact that they are left almost entirely to themselves. They make and mend their own laws, and England looks across and cries gleefully, " Go on ; that's right." Each province has its own laws, and each province its own Parliament, where local celebrities meet and speechify, and discard the laws of other provinces as unsuitable and unworthy of a broad-minded, generous -hearted people like them- selves. In this way local talent is encouraged, and local men gain great ideas of themselves and learn to despise others. But let it be remembered that all these are tributaries of the great Legislative Assembly at Ottawa, and are in the main subject to its dictates. By the war of Independence the 15ritish have been taught a wholesome but severe lesson, whereby the Canadians now profit to the full. Like a naughty boy at school, who gets belaboured half out of existence, and whose spirits in consequence for the little exist- ence that is left droop far below the required standard for success in life, so is it with England and Canada. England feels that she has lost that part of the great American Continent which she most prized, and which ' COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 303 was worth contending for, whereas she is but allotted that portion which is ordinarily regarded the most worthless, and which has been, as it were, thrown to her rather as a clocr than a benefit. It is stated that the retention of Canada is actually a drain upon the Ikitish Exchequer. However this be, the English met bitter and deadly opposition in America from their own kith and kin, a source whence they had not anticipated it. This must have seemed to them the blackest ingratitude, for they had not the faintest idea that they were over-exacting, and considering their spirit at the time and the treatment thc)- meted out to their immediate subjects, especially the Irish, they were rather liberal in their dealings with the Ameri- cans. Tyrants are not tyrants for tyranny's sake, but by misjudgment or error. This is so at least in most cases ; and since tyrants arc not aware of their tyranny 'twould be well occasionally to give them instructions. Jonathan took this view of the matter, and adminis- tered to John Bull some very practical lessons, which the latter was not slow to appreciate, and became in the end a first-class scholar. Ever since, the British have been extending more and more privileges to their subjects, so that now the worst enemy of the Empire must regard her laws, from a religious as well as a social standpoint, except in a few particulars, fun- damentally the best in the civilized world. In their application some very reasonable and well-founded objections are raised. Neither has she suffered in the eyes of the nations by all these concessions ; far different. The greater the privileges extended by a Government to its subjects, provided private rights arc sufficiently guarded, so much the more is its influence ^f1 iu 'H 1 304 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. and stability. For my own part, I felt freer in Canada than in the States, and had fewer masters. In the Republic everybody threatened to rule. The Canadians are perfectly satisfied with their present connection with Eniiland and its rule, and for the best of reasons. It is not English rule, but Canadian rule in reality. The British appear in dread to play any pranks with the Dominion, not knowing the spirit in whi^'i the}- mii^ht be received, and, there- fore, leave the folk to make the best of themselves and their country, approving of all their arrangements and foibles as long as tbey are not pali)ably absurd- 'Tis better to have Canada some way than no way, and even the game docs not pay now, who knows but it might yet? As a matter of convenience, the English retain the Dominion, like all speculators, thinking things may do better, and protect it, 'tis said, at a great pecuniary loss, their income through taxes not amounting to the expenditure. Then Canada is liandicapped a good deal, commerce with the States being interdicted for the most part through the inposition of duty ; and, on the other hand, the con- sumption at home, owing to the comparatively small population, is little, and thus there is no market near at hand. Hence there arc prophets who predict that some day not f^ir distant the Canadians will stretch their arms across the border to the Republicans, and supplicate them to appropriate their kingdom. Per- sonally I am inclined to think that day is very far distant — first, because the States folk have more terri- tory than they can at all sufficiently turn to account in less than half a century ; and, second, because the Canadians have, and can have, any form of government COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. ;o5 Lhcy require, and I don't see how they could im- prove their condition much, by annexation with the United States. There are some to complain and lament their inability to keep pace with the Republic, but 'tis hard to expect a Northern country to emulate a Southern, with its balmy clime and its adaptability for producing the luxuries as well as the comforts of life. The winter in Canada is long, but not unhealthy or very disagreeable, as the air is dry and bracing, and the Canadians are well clothed and housed against the weather. Everywhere the climate of the Dominion, except for the cold, is the healthiest in the workl, and the cold though in places without the necessary precautions well nigh unbearable, still 'tis seldom productive of rheumatism or frost-biting. From the month of April to the month of October the Canadian climate is not outrivalled, but for the rest, not to speak of the regions of perpetual snow, there is incessant winter. I experienced a wonderful change in passing from the States to Canada. During the summer in the former I was ever pursued with a relentless thirst, which made me miserable and flatulent, and had seldom a desire for anything eatable except fruit, which, I was informed, of all things was most unwhole- some and dangerous in hot weather. Suddenly 1 passed to Canada, and here I experienced an entire revolution. The distressing thirst at once disappeared, to make room for a keen, brisk appetite, and I ever felt cheerful and ready for any new enterprise. It is not by any means the climate or the soil that leaves Canada practically waste, considering its vast- ness, but British apathy and indifference. The sooner the English come to recognise the great importance of ; I ill! 3o6 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. this vast country the better for England and Canada. Other industries must be encouraged as well as farminfj or ranching, and the highest award and encouragement should be given to such industries in order that the Canadians may emulate successfully their enterprising neighbours. Besides, the standard of wages, as well as the p'-ice of farm produce, must be kept on a par with those in the States, and in this way there will ever be an equal encouragement for immigr^.tion to Canada. I subjoin a consoling extract which comes to us from Manitoba : — " Women are very much needed. Several thou- sands of good women would be a great blessing to the country. Domestic servants are in great demand, and can readily obtain from;£"25 tO;^35 per annum. Then waitresses in hotels, private boarding-hous.s, &c., are much sought after. The demand is always greater than the supply. The explanation is, perhaps, to be found in this fact, that women arc seldom in the Dominion long before they arc married to some of the prosperous young fellows already settled there." I might add, by way of rider, that they should in all cases make sure that the " prosperous young fellows " are not already married. ^Matrimonial speculations are quite the order in the States, and pay immensely. Not so long ago seventeen wives were in search of the one and the same husband, each claiming and thinking herself entitled tu tb.e sole pos- session of the fugitive, and all the detectives of Michigan joined in the hunt. Thus the matrimonial man of business adhered to his engageiTients, so long as 'twas necessary to secure the little belongings of his would-be wives, and then abruptly vanished — to be COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. >o7 sure, a treacherous and heartless proceeding. There is little of this in Canada, and real sharpers do iiot well thrive on its soil, but there arc some such cases there, as in all new countries, wherein people come and go, whence and where being equally mysteries. In this consists the crying disadvantage of a new and unsettled country. At home everybody knows every- body for generations — his good and evil qualities alike. In a new country hardly anybody knows anybody, and you arc seldom sure of your man. He may turn out your best friend, or maybe a robber in disguise artfully waiting his opportunity. People who arc disposed to settle in the country and home- stead are usualh- reliable, except they had been ad- venturers, and reformed children of this type have always appeared to me to be ver}' fragile vessels. Speaking of wages, the pay of employes is a good figure below that of the States, although practically the difference in the end is trifling, inasmuch as al' life's requisites are in the same comparison dearer there than in Canada. Here is a list of their relative rates of wages, remembering that roughly five dollars amount to /"i : — Carpenters, per day Painters, ., Plasterers, ,, Tailors, Shoemakers, Horseshoers, ., Cabinet-makers,, Labourers, ,, United States. Canada. '!!?3.oo S2.S0 350 3.00 4. CO 3-^S 2.75 2.50 2.50 2. CO 3.00 225 3-25 2.50 2.00 1.25 I have not observed any order in the quotations, for they arc liable to change with circumstances. 3o8 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. Then, as to female domestics, wages vary both as re- gards the family into which they have engaged and their respective qualifications and merits. In Canada a female domestic gets from £2$ to ^35 sterling yearly. In the United States she gets from ;^35 to £60 sterling a year, not to speak of the unique Mr. C. Vanderbilt, who paid his cook ^2,000 yearly. A cook at Mr. Vandcrbilt's completely outdistances a Senator, and is little worse off, considering expendi- ture, than the President of the United States. 'Tis easy for Mr. Vanderbilt and people of that ilk to pay a favourite cook, an article of prime necessity, a salary in four figures, if the following facts are correct : — Revenue Capital. at 5 per cent. J. Gould ... / 5 5,000,000 ^2,750,000 J. W. Mackay 50,000,000 2,500,000 C. Vanderbilt 25,000,000 1,250,000 J. P. Jones ... 20,000,000 1 ,000,000 J. J. Astor ... I S,ooo,oco goo,ooo J. G. Fair ... 9,000,000 450,000 W. Stewart ... 8,000,000 400,000 J. C. Flood ... 7,000,000 350,000 G. Bennet ... 6,000,000 300,000 Thus the Americans compute, but the C'anadian esti- mate of American wealth is very much different. I take these quotations from a census of some years back, and a census o"the present date would probably give these figures doubled. Side by side with these colossal fortunes, our wealthiest folk hereabouts arc in poverty. In fact, the ICnglish millionaires sink into insignificance by comparison. The Duke of Westminster is but accredited with a sum total of ^16,000,000; the Duke of Sunderland, i^6,ooo,ooo ; COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. ;o9 the Duke of Northumberland, ;6^$, 000,000 ; and the Marquis of ]3ute, ;£'4,ooo,ooo. But, hark ! there are no fewer than 1,100 millionaires in Xew York and Brooklyn alone, 120 of whom are said to receive the enormous annual income of ^,'20,000,000 in the aggre- gate. All this smacks to me considerably of a good story well told, with bones and sinews real, but all the other appendages borrowed and adapted to the occa- sion. If Mr. J. Gould was estimated worth i^5 5,000,000, miijht not a closer investii^ation reveal his real worth at 'i^ 5 4,000,000? If the Duke of Westminster's fortune by a hasty calculation mayhap totted the sum total of £"16,000,000, further investigation might have dis- covered his worth at i^ 17,000,000, and thus we might go on adding or subtracting until fortune in the one case exceeded the limit of our comprehension, or in the other descended to absolute poverty. There is little likelihood that in either case chartered account- ants were called into requisition, and there is still less likelihood that either went about parading his millions or disclosing matters, the most sacred of families, to greedy gossipers. 'Tis as easy for people who have a weakness for loud talk to say five thousand as five hundred, although at the same time they may have no idea of their words' significance. Waving all con- troversy and harsh words, there can be little doubt that the United States boasts, and rightly, of a long list of millionaires, and as to Canada, I have been eagerly looking for a corresponding record, but have not so far been able to make the lucky hit, Canada has yet to make its record, and what it wants above all things is population. Men with in- telligence and money could make this great Western r • i I I i I IL ''lO .0 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. country the happy home of millions. The climate is good enough, and, though cold in winter, healthful, and the summer is all that can be desired. Of course the climate varies with the locality, and is much at the border at least, as the corresponding sections of the States, and improves in the same way towards the Pacific Coast. The country, rich in resources, is un- doubtedly there, and it only requires men of energy and means. The Government is making good con- cessions in the way of free lands and bonuses to settlers, and its agents are exerting themselves in these isles to secure recruits for the Dominion. Of these many are gentlemen of integrity and wide experience, including my esteemed friend, Mr. G. Lcary, Rath- gar Road, Dublin ; but here they are regarded as traders, who are trying to make the best possible case for their firm presently, and care little for the outcome of their wares. The Government should devise some method of populating the country by colony, and should entrust the arrangements to clergymen, who, in company with lay experts, should have previously visited the territory, so as to be able to make statements from personal experience to their confidants. Intending emigrants complain they cannot have the ministrations of their clergyman in illness, nor the accustomed devotions of Sunday, which they prize above everything, and this, added to the sacrifice of giving up their own country, is too much for the average courage. Hundreds of clergy- men would volunteer their services. Let them have the support and influence along with the experience of the Government agents actually resident in Canada, and receive for the time a trifling yearly bonus, COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 311 renewable annually. Let these privileges be extended not to one religious body only, but fairly partitioned among the various sects in proportion to numbers presently entering on the new enterprise. Let there be a few medical men with a nominal income, their term of office not fixed, yet having a pretty clear understanding that something better awaits them soon. Let the new colonists have some means of education, however primary, right at hand, and let there be a volunteer protectiv^e corps well supplied by arms and the other means of defence by the nation, and receiving some gratuity during the period of actual service. There is little likelihood, however, that any such service would be required against out- side invaders, the Indians, who in the past were so much dreaded, being now so civilised, and receiving such generous treatment from the Government. But meanwhile 'twould be well to leave fault-finding people without grounds for complaint ; and at the same time internal and grave dissensions are not infrequent, even amongst the oldest and best ordered communities. Moreover, let the new settlement have its ministers of justice, to protect the rights of individuals and ad- minister proportionate punishment to offenders. In a short time the colony could look after its own inter- ests, and repay twofold the trouble and expenses of its establishment. I have been speaking of the districts not yet popu- lated, still well adapted for population. But as to the districts already sufficiently inhabited, life and property are just as secure as at home, and the fortune- seeker will find himself breathing an atmosphere as free, with a great deal less of those conventionalities H 12 COLUMBIAxN SKETCHES. and unnecessary restraints that often prove tiresome and irksome. Education receives its proper share of attention, Catholics having their own schools and Protestants theirs, the denominational system beini;- in full swing. Neither is religion neglected, and there are fe\/ of those Agnostics of the Ingersoll type, who publicly proclaim their materialism and irreiigion in the States. By the way, Bob Ingersoll, who does not deny the existence of a future state, but answers all questions in reference to futurity with the significant "Don't know," has kept a good deal in the background since he got Lambcrtccned. The Canadians do read the Bible, I can vouch, for I frequently found myself on the defensive, involved in a heated religious con- troversy, a favourite objection being, " There is only one Mediator," and demolishing my opponents gaily, when suddenly they appealed to a weapon which they invariably carried about with them the — Bible, whence they proved everything entirely to their own liking. A good deal of religious feeling is said to prevail there, and there is some ground for the statement. Every city and town has its Orange Hall, and the Orangemen have their parade days, as in Ireland ; but, just as here, they are a terror to everybody but the enemy. There is, notwithstanding, religious freedom in every sense of the term, and, with its natural resources, and the equity of its laws, I enter- tain no fear for the future of Canada. COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. CHAPTER XXXIII.— OTTAWA, THE CANADIAN CAPITAL. IN drawing a comparison between the States and Canada, I should have stated that everything in the latter is pretty much to the order of the former ; but as to the names of places there is a very material difference. In the sections originally in the hands of the French or Indians the original names are usually retained, but all new institutions are wholly Anglificd. Thus, a park, a square, a terrace, or hotel goes by the fascinating name of Victoria, Prince of Wales, Bal- moral, Buckingham, Windsor, or Royal, and all the shires of England arc somewhere represented — in fact, far^"^ :rs catch up the nominal loyalty, and designate thci places " Royal Victoria Farms" and other such like regal names. With the exception of names, the Canadians arc in a great measure modelled on iheir neighbours in the States. The language is the same, the money the same, laws after the same, institutions- after the same, even to the railway cars, I don't quite remember whether I spoke of an individual in the States who was as surely attached to every set of cars as the locomotive. For convenience sake, let me call him newsboy, although his calling embraces a host of details besides. No sooner are the cars set in motion than the aforesaid worthy sets to work, and distributes his neatly-ordered packages of sweets broadcast, dealing them about with a liberality on both sides which completely perplexes the stranger. But be careful as to the liberalit)' ! In a short time lil 111 314 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. '■ he returns and collects the loll, and if you once dis- turbed the trim envelopes of his wares, woe to you ! you are dunned. The taste beinij thus sweetened, the traveller is next accommodated with the month's magazine, or latest novel, for his greater comfort by the way, and has at least the advantage of reading over the index of the various pretty items, when aU at once the trim, business-]ii' of some 50,000 inhabitants, on the whole well planned, and presenting a very neat appearance. The Rideau Canal divides the city into two sections, which arc respectively designated Upper and Lower Ottawa. To gain an idea of the site of the capital — fancy the Parliament Buildings perched high upon a tableland overlooking the River Ottawa. PVom this tableland the streets slope gently to the river on both sides, and again diverge perpendicularly until all trace of them is lost in the trees. Across the river, but connected with Ottawa by bridge, is a rather antiquated town called Hull. 'Tis mostly of wood, and the inhabitants of the little shanties impressed me as being in great poverty. They were mostly Canadian French, and spoke but a smattering of English. In their midst rose a beautiful Catholic church just completed, occupying a whole square of 1 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. :->n r its own, and whose magnificent gilded dome rose high above its surroundings in pleasing contrast. Of the Canadian capital the Parliament Ikiildings are by far the most attractive of all its public institu- tions. This splendid pile cost the enormous sum of i^8oo,ooo, and is, without doubt, a remarkable display of architecture. The grounds are well kept, and look delightfully green, with little in the shape of flower- bods and such un.iecessary trimmings. There are in all three distinct buildings, two being departmental offices, while the Parliament Buildings occupy the middle space, and are the main source of attraction. II ere are the two Legislative Halls, known as the Senate House and House of Commons, nominally after the fashion of the States, but in reality con- structed in size and plan to the corresponding depart- ments in the British Houses of Parliament in London. I was anxious to know all I could about both, but, as too often happens with visitors, came at the worst possible time. When I arrived on Saturday there was no longer admittance for visitors, so 'twas worse than useless to keep tolling the bell, except for my own ruin or death. Next day was Sunday, and, of course, no admittance ; the day following was Labour Day, and, as might be expected, all the officers in charge were labouring elsewhere. Other arrangements hur- ried me to Quebec, and I was on the point of aban- doning this part of my expedition as hopeless, and with a heavy heart was on the road to other scenes. One more step and I should have little to say on the Canadian House of Parliament, beyond the fact that I gazed upon its grand proportions, its many turrets, its charming grounds. Good fortune decreed ?,^^ COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. differently, and, just as I took the final step, a rather brusque, inquisitive individual accosted me. I don't know what attracted him, but I'm inclined to think on this occasion 'twas my look of disa[)pointment. He turned out to be the right person, an Irishman, I'etrr Dunne by name, who was the porter of the concern, and lived in the basement on the premises. This was to me one of those occasional turns of good fortune which make up for many trials and disappointments. l'ct(n' was as good-natured, as whole-hearted, as brogue- gifted, and as inquisitive as if he had got but so far on his first trij) thither from the old sod, and offered me a thousand apologies, not one of which I was fairl) entitled to. Then we set to see the various sections in good earnest, commencing with the Senate House, then the House of Commons, then the Library, and then the sumptuously furnisht^d private apartments of the Premier, into which only special visitors are admitted. There are 215 members in the Com- mons and 81 Senators, having an annual income, or indemnity if you will, in both cases of i^200 antl mileage. 'J he Premier has about ^"2,000 }-carly with perquisites, and the Governor-General Xiopoo. I noticed here and there beautifully finished oil-paintings of celebrities, who had been in one way or another connected with the Dominion ; not the least notice- able is a portrait of her Majesty, upon which her faithful Canadian subjects gaze, I was told, until the tears trickled down their cheeks. As to whether this was due to devotion or sheer strain of looking, my informant was not very clear. She has also to h( r honour a very artistically executed marble statue, and 'tis, I believe, amusing to hear the various opinions of i - COLUMBIAN SKLTCHES. 19 the many connois.scurs on the respective and relative merits of tliese Victorian representations. I was liii^hiy delii^lUed with the Parliament Buildings, and I would wil!iri«4ly have borne all my disappointments over again for the pleasure my visit afforded me. Both internally and externally this splendid pile is a masterpiece, and is to me a palpable index of the Canada that is to be. My guide much regretted I could not be present for the oratory, which he assured me, and I have no doubt, was of a very high order. Later he reverted to Ireland and the old friends at home, and became all at once sentimental. Then there was a cjuick, lively departure to the burning Home Rule question, the proceedings winding up with a c[uiet talk in his own private quarters, to which he made me heartily wel- come. In true, genuine hvsh fashion, he offered me whiskey, but I at once asserted my teetotal ism ; here- upon he showed very unmistakable marks of unbelief; then, 'twas porter from Dublin all the way, but I was also proof against porter, and again my guide wavered in his faith. At length we parted, while he continued to mutter something about the evil of destroying good old institutions, and thought if things had come lo this pass, of which he seemed doubtful, he would never again revi.-:it Ireland. The same day I visited the official residence of the Governor-General, which was just then vacant, but undergoing repairs, in expecta- tion of Lord Aberdeen, who is its present occupant. There is certainly nothing very imposing about the building extenorly or interiorly, and I have seen many country gentlemen's residences withus,in every respect its superior, A somewhat lazy-looking policeman II ,20 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. approached me on my arrival, and, after a few conversational remarks, tovinc: with his children all the while, conducted me through the different sections of interest free to visitors. I'm sorry for thus speaking of him, as he was exceedingly obliging and painstaking, but 'tis for the sake of comparison. The Canadian policemen, as well as those of the States, arc often physically as well proportioned and developed as ours, but in both cases fall considerably short of their training. I do not say this in any boasting strain. On the con- trary, I rather admire the i)ractical Americans, who train their men in proportion to their requirements, whereas with us, that department is worked up to a needless state of i)roficicncy. In Canada they are well paid during their years of service, but are not allowed any retiring allowance. I\Iy conductor was anxious to learn many things of Ireland, but his remarks, as is natural, turned upon the position of those of his own calling. 1 enquired of him if he had ever heard of the Phoenix Park murders ; but no, he liad never heard of them. What ! the custodian of the Governor-General of Canada never heard of the PhcLMiix Park murders ! 'Twas Labour Day, and the folk were everywhere in holiday clothes, enjoying themselves. In the morning, about ten, there was a procession, very attractive in its way, the different trades and indu.s- tries being well represented. In the train, I noticed particularl}' a two-horse waggonette of tailors. Of these one cjirned a good deal ot well-merited notoriety. He was at one and the same time in broad daylight and in the fjice of hundreds congregated en route tailor at work, mimic, fencing master, and a variety of COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 321 occupations besides too numerous to mention, and as he gazed wildly, turning from side to side on the swaying human mass that regarded him with mingled feelings of amusement and disgust, I could not help saying to myself, " There's a fellow who would have been a star as Judas in the Passion Play." A good deal of the day's conversation turned upon the performance of the morning, and I distinctly remember encounter- ing a group of youths, some six or seven, who to appearance varied in years from sixteen to twenty-one, and who certainly discussed the proceedings with a great amount of animation. Mere and there on life's way I have met a good many well versed in all the science of oaths, curses, and blasphemies, but, to use an Americanism, my experience was not a circum- stance to that acquired at Ottawa. Xot much wonder that the Israelite already mentioned departed from the piety of his ancestors. Many of the imprecations were entirely new to mc, but there was not a single frown of astonishment on the face of an individual of the party. One of them, a youth of some nineteen summers, of fair complexion, with an embryotic moustache, entirely outshone his competitors in the art. In his left jaw was a bulky plug of tobacco, which did not to my mind improve his appeal ance, and on account of which 'twas necessary periodically to eject copious streams of coloured liquid, which he did with a great amount of complacency and self- satisfaction, but hurriedly, as if afraid to lose a moment of the golden opportunity to fit as many oaths as possible in a given time into a given subject. The scope of his discourse was largely lost in the thicket of imprecations and oaths that enveloped it, but I :1 322 COI.UMHIAN SKETCMKS. i could learn, that it included in part references to a strolling band of players, who came to town specially for the occasion, and who performed in tents and partly out of them. Of these I must state their well- developed busts would have been seen to sufiiciently good advantage even with a more liberal su[)ply of clothing. Well, as to oaths, after all they prove at least the ncccssitx- of believing in the Dcit}'. Without such a belief how could desperadoes shape their language at periods of excitement and trial ? How do unbelievers act in such circumstances? I was anxious to know as much as possible about the Canadian capital, and to this end I wandered here and there and everywhere in search of a guide-book, but could secure none, strange as it may seem. At length I was enabled to purch;is(^ one at the trifling figure of ten cents, and which, as I afterwards learned, was not even worth so much. It spoke of an experi- mental farm, ome two miles from the city, of 5cx) acres, a Government institution, where all seeds are tested for farmer.^, free of charge, and a report for- warded them of the soil to which they arc adapted and the treatment the)' are to receive. This is a very commendable department, and is well worth seeing. There was also reference to the Chaudiere Falls, a wondrous bit of natural beauty. The T'alls at the Suspension liridge arc greatly dcmorali.sed by specu- lator.s, wh(^ anxious to make nature their servant, scrupled not to divert the water, b}- strangelv con- structed barriers of wootl, to their respective benefits, to turn their mills and develop their electricity. As I found myself among the barriers and narrow wooden passages, with the angry waters hissing and COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 323 falling around me on all sides, the smallest slip being certain death, I heartily repented of an investment that led me into such peril ; and, as my contrition was at its height, the unlucky source of the dread danger —the guide-book— dropped into the seething mass, while I unconisciously exclaimed : Thus is earth's glory. My next investment was in the Fourth Ontario Reader, a Canadian schoolbook, where I at once lighted upon the celebrated lesson, " The Capture of ()uebcc." I noted especially the words of the brave General Wolfe, who. on hearing of the flight of the enemy, with his dying breath faltered, " Now, God be praised ; I die happy." I have been always something of an unbeliever in the recorded sa>-ings and doings of dying warriors, and other notables in times of grc.it trial and danger. But in the present instance, as 1 was bound for Quebec, and the Plains of Abraham, where I could see and hear man\- things for myself, I reserved judgment. Ih ! :! \- 324 COLUMBIAN SKF,TCHES. CHAPTER XXXIV.-- POSITIVELY THE LAST WATERFALL. YES, I did reach Quebec ; but what of the Plain.s? As I had trained from Montreal, 'twas neces- sary on my arrival to cross the river by fcrr}'. This I did in a mighty steamer, whose giant proportions re- minded me of the Scriptural Ark, with more rational and nearly as many irrational animals on board, and in the meantime I snatched the opportunity of a peep at the city from my vantage ground. No sane mortal could think of locating a plain, anywhere in, or about Quebec, at first sight. My first impression was that of a city accidentally fallen among rocks, the same threatening at every moment, buildings and all, to topple into the skirt, g river. That was my first impression and m)- last, with trilling modifications. There is hardly any attempt at order in the streets, and the houses, usually of stone and tin-roofed, look as antiquated and dingy as if two centuries standing, which is mostly true. The old sheep-walks and Indian paths of some centuries ago are not unfrc- quently the thoroughfares of the modern Quebec. These the original k>ench .settlers, a jolly, ea.sy going lot, hardly took the trouble to strip off their ruggcd- ness, and their successors, essentially religious, which they are still, with seeming holy horror shrank from improving upon, or removing the ancient landmarks of their forefathers. The streets are often .so narrow that two vehicles are often much hampered in passing each other, whereas there arc others so abrupt and COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 325 uneven that pedestrians alone find secure footing there, and that, with difficulty. All this looks strikingly akin to describing Quebec before getting there, which is barely fair to that historic city. Shall I again announce my safe arrival, and my further deliverance from the two jarvies, who, dragging in opposite directions, with me as centre, described all manner of circumferences ? 1 managed to get free of them somehow, and handed over myself and belongings to a third, who merely looked on, and, I suppose, pitied me in the struggle, greatly to the satis- faction of the by-standers, who whispered, " Well done " all round. lUit the discomfited ones were not to be utterly worsted thus. Every time I looked from my hotel I beheld the self same individuals gazing fixedly upon my apartments, by whatever means they were able to locate me, and ready to pounce upon me the moment I attempted to go forth. 1 struggled bravely on, however, to retain my position as victor, especially as I could see the competitors chatted comfortably in my absence, and simulated deadly enmity in my presence. By the aid of time- worn horse tram-cars, I was enabled, with slight difficult)', to visit the lower town, which is low and flat enough, but, in order to reach the upper town, I found it necessary to make the ascent by means of an elevator in the first instance, and again I managed to become master of the situation on foot after many circuitous windings and hard struggles for breath. Two points were, therefore, gained without flinching, but I had not yet visited the Citadel or the Plains of Abraham, and now felt myself in need of assistance. 'Twas the morning of my third day in Quebec, and ■1 -^r 326 COLUMBIAN SKETCH IS. as was ever the case with me on the journey, I felt fatiijucd in the mornintr and refreshed t(nvards cvenin«j paradox though it be. I had a goodly programme to be gone through, and, of course, local advice could help me considerably. The cab-men looked as brisk and as lively as ever, still keeping within easy distance of their original post, and buoyed up with the consolation apparently that I could not hold out much longer, at the same time expressing a desire to work for any wages. 1 reasoned, wavered, and submitted to my fate. Cabby No. i secured the job, while cabby No. 2 displayed as much bad temper and said as many vicious, ill-natured things as 'twas possible in the short interval preceding our dci)arture. It only remained for me to appear as indifferent as possible, and bear my defeat with good grace. I then proceeded to the Citadel and viewed the fortifications. A soldier in the identical uniform of his regiment in Enfrland received me courteously, and showed me the various nooks and corners of the concern, describing each with a great amount of intelligence. The warship Blake was lying right under us in the river, and there was iust then a universal stir among the bluejackets preparatory to their departure for Halifax. I\Iy guide thouLiht the fellows had a riiiht good time of it on board, and a tear stood in his left eye, the one next the river, for not having joined the marines. 1 tell you the American, or French, or whatever other invader takes it into his head to scale the heights at Quebec shall have a pretty hard time of it. And here let me state the Canadians arc known as Canadians, and the United States people as Americans on the North American Continent. I said something to my friend COLUMBIAN SKETCIIKS :>^7 about the possibility of war and the superior advan- tasres of the British from tlie hciLdits, but he clearlv did not like to be fighting aerial battles, and deferentially chantj^ed the subject. Private though he was, he was exceedingly well mannered and respectful in his demeanour, and I have seldom seen ph\'sically so accomplished a figure. In the full flush of youth, inore than -average height, of fair complexion turning red, clear and healthy, with brown quick eye, and teeth so beautiful as to suggest hesitation, and a decided look of distinction and intelligence, this obscure soldier, who under more favourable circum- stances might have risen to the coveted positions of eminence in the land, was a model that sculptors and painters might fondly hope to imitate. It required no small amount of confidence to offer him a cpiarter for his pains. The venture caused me to hesitate more than once, but cheek will accomplish most things, especially in America. And, as we parted, the I)athetic " Just before the battle " burst upon me, and then " Let me kiss him for his mother," so charming, so touching. My reception was not quite so good at the fortifica- tions in Halifax. I had made a journey of a whole day and night, through forests of statel\- trees, past lakes and wooden villages, and rivers, and wooden bridges, and wooden farmhouses, and oxen at work, and mines, and furnaces, and, not the least, the charm- ing harbour at Halifax, only to be shut out at the fortifications. After a .-hort res])ite I made a survey of my surroundings, impatient to see for myself what I had heard described over and over again as the most beautiful of cities. Well, nature has done wonderful 1 1 li :! 328 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. things for Halifax ; man nothing. As usual I was econo- mising time and money 1)}' tram-car assistance, and was its sole occupant for quite a distance. Nobody, I think, could get into that car without my knowledge. Now and then on the road we encountered trim, athletic, handsome, youthful soldiers, the truest pictures of health and happiness. Whatever pos.scssed them, they invariably saluted me in true military fashion. I don't think that salute can ever be improved upon. As we neared the thoroughfares civilians and soldiers multiplied, the latter to such an extent that what was at first encouraging became in the end annoying. Ikit I was resolved not to blunder, and turning one side with as much pretended indifference as possible discovered right in my rear— what ! an officer in full uniform, so neat, s(j statuesque, .so reserved. How had he got there ? I don't know — the explanation. Having had so much to do with the military already I determined to sec as much of them and their quarters that same day as possible, and to this end, after much climbing, reached the heights. A majestic, military-looking fellow on guard, in full martial array, received me, and informed me that visitors were not i)ermitted to view the plan of fortifications without a special permit. I reminded him of the great waste of my precious time a searching for a permit would mean ; but he couldn't help me. Not long before Americans, for no place is secure against their enterprise, were no sooner safely within the precincts than the)' set their kodaks to work, and were thus enabled to give to the observing world a picture true to ''^e of all the nooks and crannies of the place. John 15ull was very angry, and vowed that ■MM COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 329 ts ccono- ncc, and Vobody, )\vJcdgc. -d trim, truest :).sscsscd nilitary -vcr bo I gh fares iucli an :amc in )I under, tended rear — uesquc, t know io with luch of Jssible, cd the guard, cd me )lan of lindcd icliinif Ip me. jccurc vitliin c, and Jrld a of the that friend or foe should never enter those portals without his knowledge and consent, l^y virtue of that wrath- ful decree, I, no enemy of the nation, in company with all its foes, was unconditionally excluded. In vain I acknowledged myself a l^ritish subject, and protested my innocence and all freedom from mal-intent. No pleading could annul that law, and 'twas best for me to desist. The guard never for a moment lost his temper or dignity, and v/hen I, by reason of disappoint- ment and ill-nature, drew a rather invidious comparison of my treatment at Quebec and Halifax by the military, he merely donned the air of a gentleman of position, who had necessarily to bear with unpleasant things, and could only hope the worst was past, and .so declared he could not act differently under the circumstances. I wonder if I had attempted to force my way through, would he have become undignified ! There arc none amongst us so sadly neglected and so sadly misunderstood as our common soldiers. Our kingdom is non-military. We are a nation of classes, traders, politicians, and litterateurs, but not of warriors. In France and other countries of lunope, where every man is a soldier, and the highest with the lowest drill together, mess together, sleep together, and stand side by side in the hour of common danger, the son of the artisan and the son of the count are c(|ualised,and the soldier's tunic further equalises them in the public mind. That garb is often sufficient guarantee that the wearer is elidible to the best socict\-, whether he be the son of a duke or of a peasant. But with us that condition of things is widely different. In France the profession of arms is honourable, and the soldier is treated with confidence and regarded as the nation's friend, who w ' ! i ; 30^ COLUMBIAN SKKTCIIES. will protect her interests and secure her freedom in the very jaws of deatli. With us the soldier is not the guardian of the nation, but its paid mercenary, who guards our rights and protects our liberty while he earns for himself a daily pittance. Warfare is to be discouraged, but it is as natural in the present condition of society to expect that young men, whose minds so frequently and unfortunately tend to things wild and fanciful, will adopt the profession of arms, just as more settled youths adopt the professions, business, and the arts. 'Tis not by any means clear that our soldiers arc a whit more irreligious, considering the neglect so often of their early training, their depraved surroundings, and their social ostracism, than )-oung men of corresj)()nding age and tempera- ment who have separated themselves from the chastening influence of family and home to better their condition in our great cities — great centres of wealth and crime. I have been frequently impressed by their general neatness, their distinguished mien, and their respclful demeanour to superiors. No matter w hat his offences, the man of war presents himself to authority v.ith a look so innocent, - j respectful, so submissive, as immediately to disarm wrath. And I have been repeatedly thinking that such as can be trained to observe the laws of the land, and respect civil authority, could al.-^o be educated to revere the commandments and their Divine Author. 1 am cpiite forgetting about O^icbec and its environs. Well, I was hardly established in the historic city when I formed the accjuaintance of a medicine-man from Newfoundland, and a hop-grower from California, a right jolly pair, who al.so accidentally made each ; COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. JO other's acquaintance. We were all three staying at the same hotel together, and all three out on the same important business — that same being nothing in particular. " Let us come along to see the Montmo- renci Falls ; we'll have a real good time," said the Californian. " Certainly," said the medicine-man. " I can't go," said the third — myself. " Why? " said the medicine-man. " For the why," I said in tones J COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. everything, do everytliing, and have the whole time up to the Pcxt holiday to nauseate everything they eat, did, and said, so do I look back upon that little drama. Be this as it may, I was made to reconcile myself to tlie Falls, and resolution again failed me. Mayhap 'twas the climate which made me so Hexiblc. We arrived at Montmorcnci by train in right good spirits, determined to find real wonders where none previously existed, and detect humour where it had yet to be created. A somewhat doubtful-looking official, in the garb of a civilian, approached us, and demanded toll. How different from the States, where nature's wondrous ways are seen free of cost? \V(' paid him, and obtained the freedom of the place, and nearly value sufficient for our money in information, if it, too, wasn't at places doubtful. 1 hen the sight- seeing began in gxjod earnest, and the drenching process concomitantly. When everybody had seen the falls, and got bathed in the shower of spray and fog, and heard all the legends of the spot, and learned to appreciate the record of the real good times there in snowy weather, all ascended the wooden stairway to the right for the much coveted view from above. I was last of the explorers, and, I might have said, the least adapted for the task. The steps api)eared to me endless, and before I had mastered half the journey I felt cpiite exhausted. Suddenly the light forsook mine eyes, and I became temporarily unconscious. What dreadful death that would have been, when I reficct I I recovered a little, but was dazed, and might have been down among the eddying waters for wliat I knew just then. I5ut I wasn't, and soon discovered myself clinging with a deadly grip to the hand-rails, from > - ( ;!ij,.w COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 31 which I was slow to part when fully recuperated. " Yon arc all ri^ht now," said the medicine-man, the only explorer in view, looking down upon me from an eminence. " Nearly. Small thanks to you," I said ill an undertone. "Come along," was the response and matter of fact sympathy-. We reached the top, and all things went as jovially as before However, I determined positively that this should he my last waterfall, which I had firmness enough to carry into effect. The view from above was by no means worth the trouble, much less the danger of the ascent. We could only see imperfectly the drop, which is consider- ably higher than Niagara, although the volume of water is incomparably less. Then there is the old road which ends abruptly at the stream, somewhat above the cataract, where formerly was the tragic bridge. A gentleman, his wife, and fjimily, were driving over it, when, terrible to relate, the bridge, which was in a goodly measure constructed of wicker- work, gave way, dropped into the gushing river, and was carried over the dreadful precipice with all its living freight. There was nothing more known or seen of the victims. Not far from the scene of this disaster is the " Mansion House," which claims close relationship with the Royal Family in England, and which Britishers never fail to visit. After a long day's outing and comparatively few accidents we returned to town, everybody declaring that he had a real good time, and that the whole was right enjoyable. I afterwards visited the Plains of Abraham, where Wolfe fell. There is little at present thereabouts commemorative of a battle, except a monument, modest in design, and suitably inscribed il , I oo4 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. to the g;rc-dt general. In another section of the city is an obeh'sk. well, partly to the memory of General Montcalm, the famous French general who fought against him. I had been always of opinion that Wolfe was the victor, and departed this life with the consola- tion the French were worsted. Jkit in Quebec both are commemorated, and both seem still striving for the mastery. 1 have already said enough to indicate the many historical associntiv)ns of Oucbec, being the scene of hardly interrupted warfare for more than a centur}'. The I'rcnch fought hard f(^r their New I*" ranee, and the liritish as doggedly struggled on, and were at length the victors. Although the English are in possession of the city, its people and their environs arc esy .ntiaily French. Nor have they failed to preserve inviolate the religion of their ancestors, and thus Catholic hospitals, convents, colleges, nuns, and priests meet the e)-e at every turn. Ilcf, too, is the residence of Cardinal Taschcreau, Archbishop of Quebec, the first prelate in the Dominion raised to t!ic Cardinalate. J lis See is the oldest north of Mexico, and once embraced the whole of British America and the United States. I greatly regret I do not know so much of this prince of the (Jhurch as to warrant iv.c in venturing a sketch. As the name would indicate, he is Canadian-h'rench. seemingly well advanced in years, while his a^jpearance and manner arc mainly suggestive of piety and retirement. Anil thus I take m)- leave of Quebec and environs, with not a word of the ice carnival on the St. Laurence, and not a word for my countrjmen, 6,000 of whom lie interred in one shady nook at Grossc Isle, the victims of hard times at home ano relentless plague abroad. COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 00 D CHAPTER X\X\.-\VINxNlFEG. WIIEX I state there is the Canadian Province Manitoba, far — very far — inland, I'm snre I hardly make an)' new revelation. Its capital is Winnipeg, which is the Chicago of the Dominion. The traveller who starts at Halifax and pursues his journey so far west will think himself fairly entitled to a holida\-. Difficult and wearisome though it be, the Salvation Arm\- have fought their wa\' bravely to the si)()t, and whether souls have been rescued or slain c)n the road is a matter upon which a variety of opinions is freel\* expended. I have frequently encountered this Soul Rescue Party in Canada, and rather think the climate suits them. The ladies muster strong (^\\ the battle-field, and undergo all the disci[)linc and tactics (;f the sterner sex. I don't know if it be gallantry, but whenever I beheld them straim'ng their little throats I longed to draw nigh and assure them, on the autliority of St, Paul, that the Sovereign Wisdom who adapts ever)'thini'; in nature to the part allotted to it, never intended such fragile, precious things to be exposed to the fury of the elements, the attendant nervous sensations, ami the hostile criticisms inseparable from public oratory. And, more than this, when I heartl those grandiose cadences I longed to draw still nearer, and in a gentle v.hisper speak to the operator of tlie superiority of nature over art, but could not for the crowd. How few friends a 'e made by giving advice. At all events, m T COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. I ! i '}■ ! General Booth and his followers appear to have some- thincj of a hold on the folk across the Channel. I quote a notice of the warriors' movements from a Canadian paper of last month : — " Times seem to be changing, with the Salvation Army. i\t Carnegie Hall, New York, the other night, General Booth was introduced to the audience by Chauncey Dcpew, and in the boxes of the auditorium were many millionaires. In three boxes were men worth 90,000,000 dols., and in one box alone 50,000,000 dols. were represented." This looks bright for the General, whatever it may bespeak for the millionaires. Il too frecjuently hap- pens — shall I say it ? — in America that men create and fall to worship a hero whose rights and titles arc at best questionable, but. luckily for the hero, never once questioned. That a man has made his mark in the world is sufficient to elicit the admiration of the average American, and it is needless to too minutely investigate whvs antl wherefores. The head of the religious belligerents, there can be no d(nibt,has made his mark in the world, and ma\' be in his way wx^ll meaning antl [)hilanthropic ; but has the General, really, any new and hitherto unknown message to deliver ? Is it not the same glad tidings of mercy, to them thit will mere)', different it may be, for being proclaimed from the house-tops and market-place through cymbal and trumpet ? And here I leave the General with the millionaires, substantial comjiany. I was speaking of VVinni[)eg. When I wrote my first essay at school, which elicited little admiration from any {|uarter, it hardly occurred to me I should be called upon to make another effort, and especially J COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 37 upon a subject so important. But the ups and downs i)( life arc remarkable, especially the latter. Better say at once I've i^^ot half way to the Pacific Coast, and that I have hopes, however faint, of reaching that goal eventually. And to entertain my followers, whcaking of, and so on to nauseation. And to such a pitch of detestation of men and thin^^s had the fellow brought me, that 1 verily hated my dearest and best friends, without knowing why. This individual, who bore many more titles than I can remember, whether the same were hVench hall-marked or on the American free coinag(,> system, would not, I'm sure, have attempted such conduct in France. Jichold the inducnc- of surround- ings and the absence of liomc restraints ! I observe Lord Aberdeen, the Governor-General, was in evidence a short time ago, notably on the occasion of a fire at l^randon, near Winnipeg. Thi- Free Press of that city tells how he came to light, and thinks the story a g(Jod thing. I don't know if it be, such incidents arc so common. Here it is : — A fire broke out in a small house situated in the eastern portion of the city. There was the usual rush of humankind to the scene of the conllagration, which, in the darkness of the night, made a striking effect, as it lit up the heavens beautifully. Tiie yard engine of the C.lM'l. was resting noiselessly near the pas- senger depot, when the engineer in charge thought to move in the direction of the fire. Just then two or three men stepped on the engine, and were i)romptly and bruscpiel}- ordered off. One of the strangers, a man about forty-five, appealed to the engineer, stating that he also w:.s an engineer. This was sufficient, so he was invited to take his [)osition, and, according to custom, was also asked to take the lever, which lie did. Opening wide the throttle, the i)arty were soon 1 < % THE EAi^L OF ABERDEEN. COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 343 on their flight to the fire. In the innnjitime the stranger was being taken in by the crew. Im.ijjinc their surprise as the glare of the cat- light revealed to them the features of the Governor-General of Canada. In a few moments their destination was reached, when all hands, including i.ord Aberdeen, enjoyed the affair. That engineer tliinks his Excellency knows a thing or two about a locomotive engine, and is a c nnpanion- ablc fellow, if he has blue blo:)d in his veins. Here is a second story which the J''arl tells himself: — On one occasion he v.as journcving from London to the North, anil boarded the sleeping-car at midnight, in the morning he beholds a stranger opposite him oppressed with care to all appearance, and bearing the likeness of one who had th.ought himself past his sleep. Shortly he said : " Excuse me, may I a>k i'"you are rich ?" Somewhat surprised, his Lordshij) replied that he was tolerably well to do. , " May I ask," continued the .stranger, " how rich you are ? " ** Well, if it will do you any good to know," was the reply, " I suppose I have several hundred thousand pounds." •* Well," went on the stranger, " if I were as rich as you, and snored as loud as you, I should take a whole car, so as not to interrupt the sleep of others." Lord Aberdeen, who now holds the helm in Canada, is Scotch, and, although with a goodly infusion of blue blood, carries with him the masses, and is gifted with a wonderful facilitx- for adapting himself to the rciiuircments of the time. As an example, he dresses in kilts, talks like .Sandy, makes after-dinner speeches, 1 ■M ! ! i I ! 344 COLUMBIAN SKKTCIILS. and, while an able statesman, can be a jolly good fellow all round. How can he, with all this dignit)- about his s)u)ul(lers— His Excellency the Right lion. Sir John Campbell Hamilton Gorilon, I'.C, LLI)., &c., l^arl of Aberdeen, Governor-General of Canada ? It is so convenient, notwithstaiuling, U) write himself Aberdeen ! Isn't it regrettable that the famil)- name of so man)' of our nobles is c()mi)letel)' lost sight (jf in their titles ? This 1 h;ive no df)ubt is a serious impediment in the way of many, otherwise anxious to secure such honours. I remember an interview with an elderly viigin in America, whose great objection to marriage was the horror she entertained of al^andoning the good old family name. " It appears to me," I said, " that difficulty could be got over. Don't \-ou Americans usuall)' assume three or more names ? You have Henry W'adsworth Longfellow. Nathaniel Parker Willis, Oliver Wendell Holmes; and methinks you inight with jjcrfect becomingncss have tin- family- name — ladies always Hrst — to take the i)recedence of your married name, and thus, both names should be preserved in their integrit\-." The idea, she thought, was a remarkal)!)- good one, and strangel)- it had never occurred to her before. Immediatcl)' she set about digesting it with avidity. It will be remem- bered Lord Aberdeen represented royalty in Ireland a few years ago, and though regarded with no great favour on his entr\', made for himself countless friends before the expiration of his office. He is still held iii the highest esteem b}- the Irishmen of Canada, mainly through kindl)' services of his amiable and accom- plished consort, the Countess of Aberdeen, on behalf i COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 345 of the race. \ot to spciik of lu-r interest in Inl.nid at the WorUl's l'\iir, she lias since established depots for Irisli woollen t^oods in various places throir^hout North America. Kuhv^y is needless to secure lier an abidinij and i^rateful remembrance with the millions of Irish at home and scattered ever the face of the wide world. Iler umnarrieil name is I.ady Ishbel Marjorii)anks, and boasts she lias a drop of Irish blood in her veins. She is sister of the pre.-^ent; Lord Tweedmoutli. and, as tlie story l(ocs, fcnnied the acquaintance of her own lord purel\' accider,tall)'. lie had been lumlinLT. lo-,t his w.i\-, came t) her father's mansion, and ftnmd re.st. The little hostess, then eleven, loved h'm \'ur ihc daii.;er he had run ; lie recii)rocated lier tenderness, and the little drama (hily resulted in a marria;jje. Many intcrestiu;^" stories are tokl of her little dauL^hter Marjoiie and the youthful Archie. Lad\' Marjorie edits a periodical, and enjoys the distinctio:i of beincj the mo-t youthful eilitre-s in the world. I have yet .'•aid little of Manitoba, allhou;4h much could be said upon that i)ro\ince. In extent it eijuals about that of Great Britain and Ireland, and is (juitc capcd upon by pretendinc( homesteaders. With all these a(lvantai:jes the ardent \-outh of ei-'hteen who bu:ies himself in the new lo;^ cabin far back in the pi iiirles, and lays him to rest when his work is o\cr, with his watch-doi; on oiu," >ide and r('\'Ml\'ei' ')n the othei, has not (]uite a bed of roses. COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. 347 CHAPTER XXWI. -TOWARDS THE CANADIAN ROCKIES. IN the name of pro^rrcss, why don't they nrivc the districts of North -Western Canada rational names ? The poet asks — What's in a name ? I answer — l^verythini;. lk;t, then, my views are so •generally prosy ! It may be ; }-et it is well to under- stand that he, or even slic. who starts on life's race, hf)pin!4 only to encfuuiter l)ocsy, is doomed to sad and hitter disappointment. Life is real — a)-e, too nuich so — ami a L;reat deal ot its ^loom arises from the fact that men do not face it as a realit)'. And now, if 1 am too censorious u[)(jn tiie niimenclature of the tlis- tricts, he.ir nie. Assiniboia i.-^ one, Athabasca another, Saskatchewan a third. Wh.it can any human thiid< of such names? ]''or (ny<>wn [)art, if there was a countr\' on e.uth I hiiled, and had no other means of I.';' in.L;' re\enii^e, 1 should without a moment's hesi- tation dub that country Saskatchewan. iJoes not Assinilioia sound to our ears as Siberia, .\thal)asca as Kaiiiti hatka, and .Saskatchewan as Barhar)- ? All tin's i.s .ijind uKn'e, and \et there are human lu.uls there tliat beat .>s junnanl\' as ours, with all our hum, til aspirations »ind ever)- sensation of affection, daUL^er, and utter solitude of which we are capable. i''vcn thrre, are our countrymen, ma) hap our kmsfolk, who sin|_; at every social L;atherinr, in \us[y tones, " l)ee[) in C'anadian woods we've met,'' and nn'^htily emphasise " Our hearts are with our own." ._.1 il 34S COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. It's a great world that \vc live in after all, and one is confirmed in this ()i)inion by a leisurely walk across the iJoniiiiion. I can't well understand how an}' indi- vidual takes it into his head to become a world-wide celebrit)-. Just fancy the vast are.i to be traversed, and then the various lani^uaj^es 1 What would Shake- speare be in Corcan, and how loni; cuuld the Corcan schoolboy remember how the name is articulated ? I can well imagine, if the great author heard it pro- nounced b)- said schoolbo\\ he shcjuld be led to (piestion his identity. Wouldn't it bj an\- consolation or pride to the author to learn that " Romeo and Juliet" Is the work of the ingenious .Shakespeare sounded Coreanwise, or, sa\-, according to the wa)•^1 of many other nations ? if I upheld the auihorship of "Romeo and JuhVt" should be attiibuteil to a certain Speareshakc I should be .it once tlubbed a Know-nothing, or the \fr)' Ica^l a Ucpublican, and refused all (piarter. is the name an\- more euj)honit)Us of any more akin to the original in the various di.ilects of the various countries of tlie world? 1 sincerely hope I ha\e noi lust a link in this reasom'ng, for I'm so anxious lo cure those morbid noloriely-seeker.s, with whom, alas ! the \\()rld is so grievously infestcil, or at least contribute my (piota to th it end. 'liiere are endless tliffieulties on the loail to fame, or even notoriety, but it is comforting to know there is [)!enty of room *' the top. I'Acn so, to what i)urpo-,e .^ is tiie sumn wculh the anxiety, luxstility, and fatigue encountered on the road ? Alan's fame is local. When it ceases to be local its subj-.'ct is of hardly more interest to the masses than is the fabled man of the moon. In order to gain tliat local celebrity difficulties COLUMBIAN SKI:TCHKS. 349 witliout end arc to be met with at e\ery turn, for men lose no ()[ipnrtunity to place as many obstacles as possible in the way of him who eiuleavours to outstrij) his fellows on an\- road in life, but especially the one that leads to fame. Nature, too, is jealous, and much prefers to hold (he balance evenl)' between men. It is clear!)' her intention t(^ ((lualise her forces, and when she beslows lil)erall\- in one direction she is pi'i'tt)' certain Id deal as ni;4,c;'ardly in another, and man w ith im[)licit confidence in her ways assumes she has tlont^ so, and if lu- can do nothin;^ worse to stay the [iroc^rcss of his com[)etitors and .solace himself for beinc^ left, he whispers e\ il Ihiiv^s about. What is the moral — Hetter be content with one's share. A Canadian of th(> North-West coincided with m\' views tiior(>u;j;hl\'. lie took i^n-cat i)ains to inform me of an ac(]uaintance who was possessed of this morbid cravin;^, and ^o minub.^!)' was he conversant with all the ciicumstanccs that I was led to suspect the ac'iuaintancc must ha\'C bei-n a \" r\- near relatiw of his. Well, his fiicnd first (.oimncnced his iMce for fame as a merchant. The thin;^' was paying" enoui^di. but then, how few kni'w him oi" c.ircd to know him outside of his accounts, and \-cr\' seldom theie? llis next effort was in the way ot pohlics. Mere, thi- opposition was di'eadful, and he soon f)und he rc(|uired a constitution and patience far beyond that to which hi* could k'i\' an\- claim. Then he be- thou!j;ht himself how L;lorious a Ihim; 'twould be, to die upon the batlle-field ihe momentar\- pain, and the immortal renown Hut there was no battle, and the difficulty in crcatin;^ warfare was [)ractically insur- mountable. At lent;th he bcthou;j^lit himself of a sure oo o rni.lJMBIAN SKF.TCIirS. and certain way to fame. W'licrcvcr he discovered a patent medicine firm, he at once forwarded com mcndatory lettcr>^,cxj)rcs.sipi]^ his t^^ratitudc for benefits received, and wisliini,^ that all the \vorld could appreciate such bcnefaclor.-, I'his scheme w as working remarkably, and he had the consolation of seeinij his commendations translated into most of the kn(i\\ii tonpjucs. But it was iiardly payinjj^ from a worldly standpoint, and in a moment of fori^etfulness partly, and parti)' for the sake of economy, directed tiic same commendation sliL;htly alleietl to be forwarded from firm to firm. This was his death-knell, in due time he was the recipient of postals to the effect that lie should have his testimonials publishetl \\\[h much pleasun; in case he should see iiis wa)- to .'ilti;r their wordiuLi^, and, abo\e ail, the si;4naturc. The latter was the vervthiiiL,^ he couldn't tlo, because his ultimate aim should b;- thus wholly frustrated, in the interim of uncertaint)- which course to pursue, cominendaticn after commendation !:^radually disappeared from the public craze, until he surveys himself aL;ain reduced to his original nothiiuniess. 'I'iioroUL'hU' disiiustcd and heart-sick, he has since retired into obscurit}-, and contents himself with bitterly impui;nin;_; the motives of every notable, and hatin;.; the world pi ipetually, which refused to entertain his claims, without s(j much as offeritif; even one satisfactory exi>lanation. I made reference to the dee[) Canadian woods. ( "anada is not l)\' an\- nieans wholI\- wooded, \it its woods are various, and herein consists its greatest source; of wealth. Shall we stray into the woods and prairii;s ? Let me sa)' at the start my knowledge of the woods and i)rairics is somewhat limited, for 1 COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. ;5i his always endeavoured to keep within rcasonahlc distance ot the C". V. R. Tin's is the \\a\' of too many tonrists, I ha\'e lately discovered, and fur this same reas(jn so man)' return from the most dauLjcrous exj^editions to tell their tleeds of daring;' and miraculous csci'.pes. Who shall accompany us ? llere, I am reminded of certain holiday folk, who. instead of i;"ood-naturedly enjoying;' their outincj, take to hotherini;- themselves, and particularly other [)eo[)le, with a non-descriptive sketch of their tour. In ever)' second dish maybe detected a wife's hairpins, while it is too plain her hi,cjhness is evi-r [leeiini;' from behind the curtain, and watchirj;' how these same are dealt with. W^iman in general is a I'ood thinL^ hut the individual woman meted in lar;,;e doses !))• the self-interested, is an invi- dious, if not a Icjathsome mess. Don't we rci^ard those bores, who ai'e (•\-er forcing; on other pco[)le's attention their children? What of those who bore an entire communit)- with their wi\es? I was about to intro- duce a whole-hearted )-outh from Melbourne, who w.is ni)' comfortiM* thronL;h nui>h of the wilds of (Canada, and who in\ariabl\- boasted of his abiiitx" to combine business with pKasui'e, as well as a l^ostonian, who was so learned. lUit I camiot afi'ord to be obtrusive for a little. Let us fanc)' ourseUes back in the wooils, and for m\' part 1 ha\ e never been able- to realise these forests and prairic;s, hitherto uttcrlv unpeopled, but rather abamloned b)'the former inhabitants. Around us on all sides there are trees of e\er\- \ ariety — popl ir, c)'[)ress, maple, tlr, hemlock, pine, loalsam, )ew, and tamarack. .Sometimes we behold an undcrL^rowth of shrubberies, and now and then we encounter charnn'ng wild flower knots, born to blush unseen, and sweeten- 352 (OI.UMBIAN SKF.TrilFS. iti!j; tin- still air, w illi tlu-ir sootiiiiiL;' aroma. The air is not (|iiitc still, lu)\vc\ cr, for there are wild birds hoppiii;^ IV.)!!! l)iai;^h to l)oii;_;h, who are too afrri^diteil to chime the acciistonu-d h\inii, and wonder much who we be, ami what the cvW \ci\ us tiiither. Many oftliem wc-ie (]uile familiar to nu.antl ahlioUL;h some- what difl't rent from ihose of ni\' ac(iuaintance, they wi'ie. no doui)t. tlu' sami', for most countries, Canachi not e.\cei)tc(', take care to allix .i tcrt.iin mark ot tiieir own U|Hiii tlu'ir ijrodud^. \\r tire of their shrill, broken notes, and the incessant lumi-ch'um of the inst'cts in the trees, and lest to I'-nih. and think with ourscUc' the bc-st means to L;et out ol thewcxjil. 'Die situation i> iMlher i oinj li^atv^^l, and we realise it. I'o^sibly we sha'l L;el freed as re.idil)' by i)roieedin!4' as retreatin^i]^. Hut then what untold e\'ils on thi* road! .Snakes. woKes, brars, ami nii;ht. ilark and (lri'ar\-, without a slulter ! What dismal prospects I Just at the WMi>t there i> a ru>tle in the shrubbery near l)y, and e\ cryone ner\es himself f »r the ( lUsiauj^ht. All are on the di-fensive in a moment's notice with thi" best we.ii)ons at hand, resoKfd to nL;lU for dear life to the bitter einl. in tlu- wry heiL;lit of c xpectanc)' and dread, two well-si/i'd, well-led rabbits emer^;e from the thic kel, and >porti\c'l\' play iiaic ,ind iiouml before our vary I') IS. Alas! ala^ I iiow many labiiits cross oiu' patli in life I \\'(* procee-d, and liere and there discover relics of an Indiar. expi-dition tlial passed that w a\'. We have little fears on the Indian account, for we know sufricientl\' he iias iiad ijattlini; cnoui;li in l)\'i;one da\-s, and is careful about L!;ettiii,L; into furtiur trouble. lUit wiiite folk nuist not pusli their superiorit)' too far in ticaHnL,^ with tliosc races. f i COLUMBIAN SKETCHES. air IS birds ;htc(l imicli Many (»nic- ihcy nada their nrill, I Ik* with Ihc He it. The Indian tliinks ht; has a prior claim to the soil, and dubs newcoiners from our real ni " pale faced." Tiie niijj^cr thinks In- has had a foothold there, lonij before the f )refathers of the niaj^natcs of tin; present day .stalked upon the Western sliore, and dubs his would- be superior " white trash." So it can be easily inia^ined whites ha\e not thinc^s solely to their own views in di aliuL^" with the coloured races. Nr^twith- standin;.;, the white is entirel)' too shrewd \'i>v \U'^'^cr and Indian alike. lie uses sometimes, but too fre(juc-nll\' misu-MS both. Often he is found to rob ti)e Indi.m father of his [)elf, and the Indian dau':,diter oflurxirtue. And it hai)i)ens. too, that he i'^ taken with his own snare, and the Itulian _L;irl securl•■^ him for a trophy. lnlerniariia;.;e with the Indians i< n(»t by an)- mc-aiis nncoinnn m, and I r(MniMnbi:r seiin;^ a erowd of ;-;irls on boaid a steamer from llalit.ix to lioston whtisc fices too plainK' rcwaled their Indian c.vtr.ic- tion. At I).irtinouth we were diow n a whole waij'jnn load of Indian^ n-'.unn'iiL.', from n^n■ket, ;ir,d in the centic was a white- a man about thirt\\ well de\c! abandoned when an infant. The)- at on'i" appropriated him. and traim d him to theii' ways, and in .ippreeiation of his i^ood behaviour L;a\'e him in mariiaL;e one of their di. lie continues to !i\ewith them, and j^ets alon;^ some-how. ' " I don't think I could e\i-r do so," said my conipam"on. " e\en though it wi-re to sa\e me from certain death ; were I r^ixcn tk.is choice, of two evils I should joyfully accept the L;reatei-." Ihit men can be educated to T COLUMBIAN SKF.TCIIKS. regard a-^. a blcssiiicf. what is their greatest misfortune. \Vc have not yet eincrged from tlic wckkI. Tjickles- was the hour w iien tlrst we dropped upon that Indiau trail. We aie next interested in the inan\' I