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HARRISON OF CHICAGO. \ niS OWN ACCOUNT OP' TUB Trip Across the Continent. ^ SURPRISING FERTIUTY Or THE PRAIRIES OF THE FAR NORTH REGION, GBANDBUR OP THE MOUNTAIN SCBNBBT <• ALONG THE Canadian. JPaciliG JEfcail-way. (Reprinted bypermiaaion of the Author.) C0RRESP(3^ENCE OF THE "CHICAGO MAIL" ■Victoria, Uritlsh Columbia, Aug, 8.— Having resolved to raako a race with the huh around tlie world, It became a matter of fiome moment what route we nhould pursue. We recognized tHk fact that old Sol moved on a smooth and beaten track. For countless eras he has moved ma- jestically along the same road. Ko ups and downs. No stations where he ha.s to stop to take on food or water ; comets feed his flery chargers } their tails, whisking around millions of miles, fan their foaming flanks. Worn out worlds drop into their mangers to feed them without the necessity of a halt. Asteroldft and bursting meteors furn- ish their driver with whip-cracks to encourage them to maintain their speed. Their own flery nostrils light them*- along their boundless path. Countless millions of ages ago the mighty Eternal awoke them from their beginning- less sleep when his flat, " Let fhere be l)ght," reverberated throughout chaotic spftce, and rolling through its dark chasms and caves, echoed from its frowning crags, caught and returned from limitless heights, was obeyed, and " Light was." Their next rest will be when comes a crash of Avorlds, iftnd the stune Eternal shall shout in wrathful thunder, "It is ended.'' Ours was an unequal task. We knew we would be handi- capped, not only from day to day, but from houT to hour ; we would have mountains to climb, valleys to span, oceans to cross, and storms and tempests to turn us from our track. We would have to pick our course through oount- lessk^'Obstacles by day and to feel our way among countless dangers by night. Elnowing our rival would have to travel a thousand miles an hour within the tropics we determined to go far to the north, where contracted degrees would reduce our mileage to nearly half the tropical distance. We therefore left /Chicago for far northern Manitoba. We ran through wopded Wisconsin, rested a few minutes at -ambitious St. Paul; Were handsomely entcMained and driven around by Its democratic mayor, dashed tJurough the grain fields of : Northern Minnesota, entered the dom- inions of her muci ,-jublleed majesty, and started on our race at high-boomed Winnipeg, in the 60th degree north latitude. By the way, the 'Vboom " at the capital of Manitoba was not, as many have tlhought, a bursting "bombr." It is a < well laid out and handsome city of 23,000 souls. The boom gave it a good start,! and, like our great fire, made many a rich speculator bite nnanclal dust, but left Improvements, which, but for the speculative fever, would' not have been commenced for years to come. The city has many fine buildings of private owners, and a beautiful city ball, three elegant fire-engine houses, several well-paved streets, and a mill which turns out 900 barrels of flour diUly. The peo- ple resemble in dress and movements the thriving, bustling .population of our North-western States much more than tiieydothe self-satis^ed and slow-looking Canuck of On- ' terio and e astern Canada. At night th e y w e r e walking about with pleasure-seeking eiiergy, rather than the list^ ^K a ^iS- MAIL" g resolved t became a lid pursue. a smooth moved ma- )wn8. No I or water ; liiK around Worn out without the teors f^rn- [6 them to light them*- ns of ages beginning- iverberated h its dark igs, caught )eyed, and aes a crash n wrathful d be handi- vf to hour ; )an, oceans from our ugh count- ; countless ■e to triavel i^termined rees would istance. Manitoba, iw minutes tained and id through d the dom- ted on our igree north iUitobawas ;» It is a The boom idemany a rovements, ; have been i many fine r hall, three treets, and Thepeo- ig, bustling more than Mck 6f On- • r e walking lens, iilou't the Hize of partrldgos, on Hmall Htrcamn not over twenty feet from our train. The plain Ih now' the coteau de MIh- HoUrl, but Ih not arid an the name plain Im on the Northern Pacific road. The whyle country Im pleasantly green, with patchcM of town dlverHlfyhig the landscape. OceaHlonally we would »ee lakcH with edges white with alkali running Into purple water-weed. Several of the small alkali pondn were dried up and looked like patches of driven snow. The grass Is short but thick, and Is of the pralrlc variety with, I thought, a little buflhlo grass Intermixed. Fre quently for long stretches we would pass among bush openings, which gave a park-like appearance to the plain. Many of the towns are of good size, from 400 to 800 In- nabltants. Two hundred and odd miles went of Winnipeg, at a village named Moosomln, we saw a lawn tennis party and a couple of nickcl-platcd bicycles ridden by ambitious young men. This, too, In the territory of Asslnibola, aiid north of western Dakota. All through the ride on the 80th we were in the region were the buffhlo formerly abounded. Hundreds upon nundreds of thoir old trails were deep furrowed Into the prairie, crossing the road from south to north. Wliat countless thousands must, year after year, liave trodden in tnese furrows to have worn them so deep in the dry liard ili ^^ ^^ *'^®" *'*®'*' ^^^^ yvovAA bleach the prairie with wliite patches, and at the stations tons of them were ready for shipment east to make handles for tooth brushes and bone dust for soda fountains. It was sad to think of Ki \^ numbers of these old monarchs of the plains JjrMch had been slaughtered in the mad love for killing, rhe poor Ind^s, relics of former ages, who are now liv- ing upon the bounty of the conquering whites, do not so much arouse my sympathies as does the wanton destnic- tlon of the red man's friend— the bison. The Indian would not learn civilization and refused and refuses to obey the order to earn bread by the the sweat of the face. They Had to go for civillaatlon's sake ; but the bufiWo committed no other crime than being the Indian's friend and being an easy^target f or the wanton niurderer. Seventeen years ago I passed, on the Union Pacific, through a,herd of many ^^usandsat Platte station. Their beef was plenty and cheap aU along the plains, and mUUons were yearly maklnir Their ■«*"■■"»' «v.i~~-*i — ■«.-_ 1 — . . - •'.. •'. -O -z, — a nnu a l migration. For hund r eds of mUea along the i/anadian Faciflc ju« the coontlesa traUs they dug Into the _ ^ l>ly accorato ». Th« twl- >t In onabkul ouki hi! lout 21)tli. Karly 'H or <»n thfl ■ ill to Hh>f|) .<» fi'ad (lur- jy foulil H«o nature. <*, (tcckod III Hi llkO tllHt •0 Hceii iH'ar hoy all had ry. After off on tlio horHc with inclieH few. and due)(. ittur, aboiit ver twenty mu de MIh- e Northern i?rcen, wltli ccaHlonally til running Ikall poiMh veil snow, rle variety, ted. Fre nong buHh ) the plain. ) to 800 In- WlnnlpcR, nnls party ambitious ilboia, and tlie region reds upon li into the th. What trodden In B dry liard ho prairie ;hem were ;h brushes n think of ;be plains >r killihgr e now llv- ]o not so I destnic- ian would » obey the ;e. They ommitted i being an jen years t of many lenty and y making along the ; Into the noli almoNt mm hard nn r«Mr. Now It Im Maid there are not over one or two iiuqdred wild buflhio In thcause of the smoky atmospliore. Sixty miles from their foot lies Calgary, a town of 2,000 people, the centre of the great.ranch district, where ranches of many thousand horses almund. The grazing country is said to bo very fine and extends far south down into Montana. The plains here are very fine and tlie biincti grass is pretty green. It grows gockl wheat but l)etter grass. At three o'clock on the morning of the 31 st we reached BanlT. Wo stopped over a day and took two baths, one at the hot springs, temperature from 110 to 120", said to have the specific virtues of the Arkansas springs, and sought for the same class of diseases. I do not "think tlie bath produces thq heavy sweats brought about In Arkansas, but still I had to lie for half an hotir before I liecame dry enough to dress. Several hundred feet below this spring are two others, within a hundred feet of each other. One is in a cave, or groCto, about twenty-five feet in diameter, and with a vaulted dome, say thirty feet high, as perfect a dome as if cut by the hammer. It Is now entered by an artificial tunnel a hundred feet long and lighted by a natural opening at the apex, about two feet by three. In the grotto is a natitorium, surrounded by pretty stalactites, with water about five feet deep boiling up from the sandy bottom; temperature about 95o. Cold water pourS'from one of the shell-shaped stalactites In sufficient quantity to make a nice cold shower. One can thus swim around in warm water and then cool off his upper body while from his waist down he is in a warm bath. A hundred feet * from this is anothgr large pool, twenty feet across, of about the same size, and, being in the open air, the warm water can be seen boiling up through the sands. Both this and the cave springs have streams flowing from them as large as a first-class fire-engine could pump. The cave spring discharges at Its outlet without coloring the soil along the rivulet, while the other makes a d^)oslt as white as lime. This deposit Is a magneslate of lime, impregnated with Iron and sulphur. I tested the virtue of the water ' personally; two weeks ago, having a soft com between •6 : / mv to<»«. f WM fnol(N\ It hfforc with UiUH\ vm-vi, hut tlilt tliiiv I n-- |Mm««l It tho HtMond iilKlit. Tho rcNiilt WM, f«)r neviral dH)s lK.fur«> h>M\liiK \\tmiv, I could ncArcvljr walk with ttiy couifort. . liMliT my (hictorlnir oun ft Koi woll. but wlwrii I rcAclHtl Hauir the other wan vory painful. I walked «M» feet up to the Hprliitf with a had liftip. I took the two batlw aiKl wit wHh my foot In the warm rivulet for a half hour. Kenult. my fo<.t wa« virtually well the next «lay. llie hotel aeeoniuKMlatlouH here are not aulMclcnt for the vlMitjover fl.OlH) feet ahovo the hotel, all^ them thin year with MHow on their HummltM and far - for MV^ral Ik with Bliy \ wvll, but I WIllktHl ~ ok tliu two t for a half next day. on t for tue la A.tout. itlful liotvl "Hprny rlvfr r two liiin- T throiiKli- l»^-tlKS llani of ruMhIng Hnow— now In rancadn then In rapldp ; nmcr ntlll rnough to loNo thi>tr foam. Hour aft«r hour we art In thiH H4'«>iie of grand«Mir and Iwaiity. I May iM'auty, for tlu> whitu hiiow, th« foaming waters, th« grucn trp««H— th«'B« an* bomitlfiil. Whil« the iiiountiilnH, their frowning prcrlplceM, their rocky plnnaclfH piercing the blue Nky a mile right over uh, ihese are grand. For sixty inlieit It is the nanitf grand aiKl beautiful scenery. One little creek has become a° river i narrow, bnt pouring in towards the sea as much water as ' flows down tne. Ohio at ordinary stage. At nine o'clock . our rushing, roaring' river bus emptied intni the ITnltcil Htates wUh Its milk-wkite glacier water. It i^ls In rapid current towards the north, washing the. foot of Houtit lirown twenty miles away. It will bend westward beyond the Selkirk range, at whoM ' western base we will cross it again, after having steamed , nearly a hundred miles through y«rt gr|indor scenery. We N^ross the river ; we look iMU'k and seiflPe towering Itockles, we look forward and no great way from us lifts tlu^ Sel- kirk range. Tlio ascent commences at once. First up the Dearer, which near the Columbia passes through a gate one can scarcely believe to be^f nature's fashioning. Two vertical slate precipices only a few feet tliick lift tliein- solves up like the framework of a portcullis, tljrough ^ whlclr the little river rushes. A gate twenty fc«5t wide set against the gateway would stop tlie wliole stream. Up the river, and then the BciUr creek we climb. . The river Is a few feet below us. Up we go. The river is a hundred, then four hundred, then a thousand feet down. Still up, till far below US — two thousand fetn^— through the tlm^r and then over the tops of tlio lofty flrs wo see it wintlnig through marshy grass, which one of us InsistH is a wheat bulb. We seem to hang on the mountain's side; now the road IS cut through tunnels ; then it is timbered out over precipices ; we cross a trestle bridge 205 feet above the stream' at the bottom of a gorge. We are soon in the -heart of the mountain— far up tlie sides till the snow and rocks are met, magnificent forests of pine and (k, wltli stems as straight as an arrow, |li^ the road on the valley side and climb above us. I saidwo were In the mountain's heart.. I was too quick. We soon will be, for we break through a pass between two mountains clad in eternal snow. The snow Is nearly down to our level, which Is now 4,800 feet above the sea. But look ! Sco that white precipice ! It is the foot of a mighty glacier, hundreds of feet thick, and pushed down in the hardened stream from ahe peak, yet far above and beyond Us brow. The scenery now is grand beyond the power of language to paint. One glacier forms upon another. To our right we^asg the summit, and two miles on reach Glacier house, jPBeSitlful Swiss chalet, In front of which are beautiful fountains throwing qp icy streams. Then, apparently a few hundred yards away to our left. Is a monster glacier with foot not far above the level of the road. With a glass we see migh^ fissures cracking its stirf ace. It bonds over the mountun like a falling curtain. We are told it is a mile and a half wide, nine miles long, and 500 feet deep. Mount Sir Donald is watching itSL^low descent. Far above the snow, his peak, shaped like a diamond drill pierces the blue sky over 6,000 feet above us. We have to bend our heads back to look upon his pinnacle. They give us a half hour here t.o look, and eat a first-rate lunch. The descent cler. We •ndiilnftitt Is now down a sUvery thread, called the 7 HUcilliwaet river." It tambles in cMcades, and as it tambles tt growi We get down hill by making iron loops. The Horseshoe bend has nothing to «ompajre with these bends here. We can pitch a marble from our window upon the track belovfa which we will reach after bending as on the link of a chain. After a while the little silver thread has become a foaming stream, then a rushing river— so strong that it cuts its way between two perpendicular clifb in a canyon appar- entljr not over twenty-five feet wide, but several hundred feet deep. The river springs through it like a mad man In a leap, then foams along for miles below. At last, after a run of seventy odd miles through the Selklrks, we emerge from them and cross the Columbia, a stream greatly grown since we saw it last a hundred miles back. After awhile we enter another ranee of mountains — the *' Gold range," The scenery in these would be glorious, but we are satisfied with grandeur, and are more delighted by the beautiful lakes, along whose margins we run, than by the mountains above us. We are more delighted with their glassy surface, in which we imagine we see trout, than in looking upon lofty heights. We have made a mis- take. We should have stopped at the Ohicier house for ~ the next train. This road affords too much of the grand for a continuous ride. We should have made at least • three stops, and then each separate ride would have been aufilclent for a whole tour. After leaving the "Gold range " we are upon waters which empty into the Frazer river. Before night we pass spme beautiful U^es. One' of them, the Shuswap, is of very considerable extent; we ^ ran along its shores for over fifty miles. Its width varies from on^ to four or five miles. Mountains' from 2,000 to 8,000 feet high lift tiiemselves above its waters, now by steep ascent, then by sloping benches. Its waters are said to be f nU of fish ; we frequently saw them rising. Thursday morning, the 2d, we were up very early. We were npon the Frazer. Here W6 had a diflbrent character of scenery from any before seen. The road run« along the bank of the river, perhaps a hundred feet up— nearly aU the «lme on ledges cut into the rock or upon the steeply descending sides of the mountains. We must have gone through thirty tunnels, in length from a few hundred feet to several hundred yards, all cut through the solid granite. The rivdr nms through rocl^ canyons at the foot of mountains lifting from 2,600 to 4,000 feet. Many of these mountains were of bare rock, others beatttlfully treed. Behind these, inunediately along the river, one other high peak, more or less flecked with snow. Laughing brooks and foaming Itreams are frequently crossed, which come down the mountains in bounding cascades. The river is a mighty stream of white water rising 600 miles away among mountains covered with eternal snows. It is jofaied where we Btmck it by the ' ' Hiompson," itself a noble river. It is fed by many smaller streams and by a thousand mountain torrents and rivulets, and appears to carry as much water as the Cplumbia in Oregon. It flows in turbulent current, pow 700 yards wide, then catthig its way through rod^ doors not over a Irandred feet ^m jam to jam. Often for miles it mishes in fall abnost as fast as a <»taract. Be- low imch fall it whirls in angry pools, and on nearly all the ledges jutting over these pools are frames of light wood on which the Indian's winter supply of salmon hangs like ted tobacco in a squthem field. .Indians are down on pro- jecting ledges scooping with a net, shaped like a tennis oat, for finny beauties. Thehr fishing nets are on nearly every green spot of an acre. Here and there is seen a r ill Mitgroivi. Horeeshoe here. We 'ack beloTK, of a chain. 3 a foaming it cuts its yon appar- al hundred I madman t last, after slUrlts, we a stream niles back, tains — the B glorious, e delighted I run, tlian ghted with see trout, uule a mis- house for ' the grand e at ieast ■ •have been he "Gold the Frazer ikes. One' ixtent; we Idth varies m 2,000 to rs, now by rs are said !«rly. We bchiaracter '\mS along ap — nearly the steeply have gone adred feet id granite, e foot of ly of these Illy treed, other high ing brooks hich come i river is a ray among ned where river. It mountain luch water itcorrent, igh rod^ m. Often iract. Be- irlyallthe Ight wood tiangslike monpro- i a tennis on nearly Is seen a r ill Chinee washing gold from the ground. High do the opposite side of the river runs the road built twenty- eight years ago by the government, to the Cariboo mines, 4<^ miles away. This road often ranges at a dizzy height, and is so narrow that the stage coach passengers must have been in dizzy alarm; that is, if they were other than gold-seekers. For these fellows would have ridden the devil bare-back and never felt a tremor if the dust was at the journey's end. For sixty odd miles we ran in and out of rock h^wn tunnels, over trestles, along ledges cut from the solid rock, and over terraces built.^from many feet be- low. The rushing river was ever some fifty to two hundred feet below us, while high over our heads or frowning from the opposite side of the canyon, the steep mountains lifted themselves to a height varying from 2,500 to perhaps 4,000 feet. They were now rocky buttresses, and their steep slopes covered with pines and ferns. This canyon is alone worth a trip just to see, and, while it lacks the awful grandeur of the glacie^d pei^s of the Rockies and Sel- kirks, yet, being ever so close to our way, is even more teolblc and startling than the others. fter leaving it we ran through lower elevations, but ragh forests of giant cedars — cedars from two to five Seet in diameter. But, sad to say, these noble trees a good part of the time stood like blackened spectres, and often were but lofty stumps from five or six to thirty feet high. What wild havoc the fire fiend has been for years and yet is making In the vast forests of the Pacific slope. The air in the Selklrks was blue with smoke, and so was the ai/ from their base clear to the end of the road. The air here on the south side of Vancouver's island is atill smoky. From our windows we ought to be able to'iiee Mount Baker's snowy crest far to the west, diud the Olympian Mountains, only some twenty odd mileitp the Isonth. In- istead of that, high hills ten miles^ away are dimly seen as blue masses above the horizon. Millions of trees such as would be the admiration of people eaat of the Mississippi, are now burning, and millions upon n^ons of acres have been within the last five years stripped of their valuable forests, which east of the mountains would be worth many tinges 'more than all the gold produced within these few years on the whole Pacific coast, and yet many of the flre» which have destroyed such vast wealth have been started by prospectors looking for gold. They burn certadn wealth, not their own, above the ground, in the hope of finding nncertain signs of wealth which may become their ovm, but now hidden below the surface of the forests. Bat I am making this letter far too long. 1 1^ stop by sajring tourists from the east should t&e the Canadian Pftcific either coming west or when returning east. Its scenery on the plains is never monotonous, and often very pleasing, and always interesting. ITiere is more of grand and glorious scenery twice over than is to be found on both the Northern and the Union i\ic Carteb H. Habbison. Eztnots ilrom snbBeqneht Letters of Mr. HorriBon relating to his Oanadian Paoific trip. Victoria, B. C. , Aug. 21.— I waff saying, before led Into digression, that there was the home of a great population In the northwest. I can see into the future, guided by what history t^lls of the dense populations of the far past, that there will sope day be a great' people In the cooi northwest— greater than In hot and dry California. * * •» Harbors abound everywhere capable of holding the fleiets of the world. And all along the coast from Fncas strait up to Ala9ka are rivers of vast depth running parallel to the ocean and constantly opening into It by safe inlets, along which cheap steamers can go from point to point without the danger of ever encountering a storm which an Ohio river craft may not meet, llie Indian of Alaska comes to Tacoma in Mb dug-out canoe with his whole family, and with as little risk as one could run on the Pesplaines river. The largest ship can- steam In these inlets and salt rivers without ever Mtting upon an unseen danger. There are no shoals, and no hidden rocks ; and a vessel can lay its broadside sheer up against the «hore anywhere, with no other danger than that of abrasion when lifted or lowered by the tides. The scenery of the whole norttiwest is of so grand a character that evctrything east of the BocUes Is compara- tively tame. I do not mean to detract Jb-om the beauties " of our own section. For there is not a hill anywhere that does not furnish, to iny eye, a Itoe of beauty. There is not a flowery prairie or a waving field of grain which does not give me delight. '];liere is not a gurgling rivulet which does not sing to me ii} tones far sweeter than those of the most gifted diva. But here there is more of it all, and on so stupendous a scale that ours are to them what a parlor melody js to a gnnd chcoms, or the eolia sin^g among the pintrneedles is to the grand artiUeiy of the storm. ;. I look out of my window every few moments, and the rlow mountains of this island presenit to my mind as fine ontllnes and as green and beaatifol foothiUs as onecai ■ . ^ ■ ■ ■. - "lO Iter boutd^f^ passed over At two of Is are admir- ally polite. 5 tourist will topping will 1 grandear. irinter never Ight degrees-/ nbowers the the garden; ms, and the nestLawton l^ood fishing argest ship ; OUead is as ilous clime, Iabbkon. HarriBon ore led into ; population I, gnided by he far past, in the cool ■nia. • • •• ig the fleets ^cas strait [parallel to safe inlets, it to point torm which 1 of Alaska I his whole 'on on the m in these I an unseen rocks; and < the fihore asion when lo grand a s compara- lie beauties " where that . There is nrhichdoes mlet which lose of the all, and on a|^a parlor ing among storm. i, and the Ind as flue IS one can flod anywhere In the AUeghanies ; and yet these mountains are but pigmies to those one could see to the south or Mresi from this hotel, if the smoke would but blow away. To nee the grandeur of this region one should come before July or after September. Smoke is apt to be the rule in July, -August and September. Even in these months tiie smoke rather softens the near lathdscape, but it hides the mighty background. This place ought id and ultimately will be to this coast what Newport is to the east. The rocks along the seashore resemble those at the plutocrat's heaven in Rhode Island, only they are more numerous, and the 6ays and inlets about would be the delight of the lover of uie oars. Some of the inlets are little salt rivers, alolig which the rising ot falling tide sends a current of two or three miles an hour ; their shores arc covered with beautiful trees, the green (Irs, spruces, ^d elders, and the red-barked arbutls bend- ing its gnarly branches among the green foliage, as smooth as if rubbed down Mrlth sand paper and as red as if painted by an artist. The wild roses grow as large as lilac bushes and often cover whole acre^. The royal navy yard of Esqnlmalt looks as If its site had been selected as much to please the eye as for its wonder- ful roadstead. This roadstead looks like a beautiful lake of a couple of thousand acres ; ahnost circular, surrounded by beautifully wooded hills and rounded 4raplte rocks, with an Inlet of only a few hundred feet, and opening from It a few small interior arms, It Is deep enough to receive the largest Iron-clad. • *• * • * The climate of this great region is to an eastern num eren more remarkable tjhim Its productions. The thermometer rarely falls much below the freezing point at Victoria, or anywhere west of the Cascade range, and while iha days are warm in summer they tore never hot, and so far we have required at least two blankets throughout this month. Every cottage Is covered with honeysuckle or some other climbing plant, which in the Chicago parks have to be laid and covered in vdnter. • • • • The strawberry here blooms early in April, 9nd the wild fruit Is nearly as large as ordinary cultivated ones. Along the coast and up to the heights of the Cascades in Wash- ington territory and the Selklrks In British Columbia the idr Is fidl of hunddlty, except In the summer months. Steamship Pabthia, Vancouvbb, B. C, Aug. 27.— In . my last I stated that my star had set, and I was no longer Inckj, because I had lost my trip to Alaska. But I picked up my luclqr star again. We abandoned our fishing excur- sion to JBairison S>t Springs and boarded the train tojc a longer visit to the great glaciers. • • • • * From Bevelstoke, on the Columbia, I rode on the loco- motive with jolly Billy Batnfather. May his face never be less round. A few good* Havanas made him as good a fel- low «s ever strode an iron horse. A ride on a locomotive has to me always a fascination. But in a grand mountain country, around countless carves, over lofty trestles, upOn the ragged edge of fearful iwecipices and over dencfe gorges — such a ride is really glorious. We had to climb up 2,700 feet in about thirty miles. Our horse, with his t^def, F^hed about a hundred tons. How he would puff a&d snort, and sometimes almost plunge, to drag after him his mighty load. One riding ^pon him, after awhile, ahnost loses Ais own identity and becomes a pixt of the jBlghty monster. Looking forward upon the rails, merely silvery lines drawn upon ue road-bed, I forget* these rails ■■■■■', .-ll . •re anything more toan marks to gnide iia In our way The locomotive bcndfl to the right or left like a dmiricen man as we rush along the cttrves, and one feels like a drunken man, oneself — one who can walk straight If he wishes, but it feels good to totter/ind zigzag, so it is done not from necessity, but from agreeable volition. He can walk a chalk line, and he does it. The rails are but lines to guide, not to control. And so on we rush, never quitting the line a hair's breadth. Yonder is a monster mountain of rock right in our track. Who's afraldr At it we rush headlong, and bore a tunnel through the mass. See yon foaming stream far over a dark gorge. We rush across it on a trestle as light as ganze-wo;rk, and never tremble because of its l)eing so fragile. How we careen and climb 1 We reach a little level track. We spin along it with a loud scream and stop at a station as still as if we never knew a motion. Miners and road-workers gather about our side, and while they admire we are as quiet as a lamb, conscious bf our power. At last we reAch the presence of eternal i<^e. * * * • I said I had found my luck. Alaska may Tbe grand, but when I sit on the p\§ua of the beautiful little chalet hotel, called the Glacier house and watch the sun climbing the mountaimi and rose-tinting the snows which lie like a light mantle about these lofty heights, and look upon the great glacier withxits crevices of delicate green and the gray peaks of cold rock which pierce the blue vault of heaven, and hear the nilghty roar of the snow-white cataract which tumbles over a thousand feet down the precipitous foot- hills a few hundred jarda before me; when I sit in this wonderful valley, nestled down among huge mountains on every side, no outlet to be seen, the lower mountain slopes covered with splendid forests, the upper slopes white with eternal snows, and the gray rocks above the snows ; these monster peaks so nearly cover me that I must bend back my head to look at them,— then I do not envy any one seeing other sights; these are enough for me, and I scarcely regret that my ship had iA>t come. It is a delightful thing to ^t at Interlaken as the sun slnkiB and paints the pure brow of the Jmlgfrau— Switzer- land's pride and glory. Bat there the Unpolluted Maiden is so far off that we cannot feel familiar. But here the motmtains are so Close that a bee line drawn from where I sit would reach lofty peaks or mountain brows in every direction, at distances varying from two or three to per- haps six or eight ndles. These mighty heights are from a mile t6 a mile and a quarter over the roadbed. The train from the east to-night brought Prince Devar wongse Yaroprakan and his nephews, the little princeliiigs of Siam, and their suites. After a good dinner we were all soon in slngle-flle and armed with improrlBed alpenstocks, started out to see the great j^hKiers. We cnt pieces of ice and eat it that was formed long'bef ore Washington cut ttie cherry tree, or even before Columbas made an ^gg stuid on end. It was very pure and cold eBongh to be very oldi The little fledglings of Siamese royalty were wondfitfolly ctelig^ted, and like boys began to cut steps ttto the sloping sides of the leaders to try to climb It. For Ihls pnrpose one of their party had provided himself with a hatchet at the hotel. The task, however, vras abandoned, when, In a half-honr, th^ had reached only a few feet. * * • • * Two miles up the road from t^ Glacier house is the snmmlt of the road in tbe SeUdric timge. Here, from a small snowy gorge, nm the two Obrery streams which In our way. I a drniriten feelfl like a tUgbt If he BK. so It Is olltloti. He Mia «r«but ne a hair's ack right In Bdlong, and ling stream, a trestle as of its being each a little un and stop >n. Miners while they our power. • ♦ • * grand, bat halet hotel, limbing the like a light n the great id the gray of hearen, must which Itoos foot- sit In this >nntains on ' lyoantfdn >per slopes above the me that I sn I do not enongh for come, as the snn I— Switzer- ted Maiden at here the 'rom where rs in every tee to per- arefroma ince Devar prtncelliigs g^Ie-flle and • to see the It that was ■ee, or even t was very I fledglings i, and like les of the ne of their the hotel, half-hour, -.♦ ' ■• use is the re, from a uns which carry the waters Ib.tlie east and to the west. The one to the west becomes the Illlcilllwaet river, which, until It roaches the Columbia, Is always as rapid as a mountain tprrent, ailbrdlng the sightseer constant delight by its cas- cades .and deep canyons. The time is not far distant when tourists wUl seek this locality as they now do the old sceneiiy of Switcerland. When one first sees the enclosed valley about the sti^ion, he is not so mach pleased by it as he win be after several days' sojourn among its mountain fastness. He has entered it through so much grand scenery, and his eye has become so accustomed to nature's majestic works that he looks upon this as simply a part of a whole. But after sleeping a night, he looks out in the gray morning upon the cold peaks and then watches until the son begins to scatter delicate rose tints upon the snow fields, and after a while to lighten up the old glacier, then he sees the surrounding objects as a unlt< and takes it Ut as one of the rare spots to be vfslted and enjoyed. Widk in any direction for miles and I the roar of cataracts is nevjer absent, — scarcely has the sound of one died out be- fore another is heard. There are a half dozen which give out the deep bass undertones of a great fall. * * * While we were in the heart of wo Selkirks we saw the manner in which the Canadian Pacific road builds its snow- sheds. There ai« two between the summit and the hotel which are being united, and will be altogether over a mile long. On the side next the monntain the shed is of strong crib work, built of cedar timber, ten by twelve Inches, laid two inches apart, with crots timbers dove-tailed into th«f two sides of the crib and spiked together with seven- eighths spikes sixteen inches long. This crib is about tl^y-flve feet high and filled with stone. On the other side, timber of the same size and about five feet apart are spiked upon the massive mud-sills and cross-sills. Upon the cross-sills heavy lean-to supports are mortised intb the upright timbers toad into the sills, all spiked together. Across the top Is a floor of two-inch boards, braced from the centare, and another sloping roof 'Of the same thickness slanting down nearly to tbe ground on the lower side of the track, completes the shed. . iThe whole roof is as strong as a heavy bridge, over which a flre-epigine could rush with safety. • • • » , • • * Where the very fine scenery is, th^re are double tracks-> one within the shed for winter use, the other outside, so as to permit the traveler to see durihg the summer months.- Every kind of work on the road seems to be done without regard to cost, but with the determination to make it as perfect as a single-track road can be. The station-houses are, or are to be, al| ornamental. Those in the mountains are on the Swiss chalet model. • ♦' • • * Let every one who can, make a trip over tho road, and let him come prepared to make at least three or four stops —at Baaatt, Field, Glacier, and somewhere-Hsay Hope— on the Frazer. There is too much for one trip. If one will take ten days or two weeks in making the trip he will be amply repaid. ♦ ♦ • * ♦ ♦ When we came over, nearly a month ago, we passed the Thompson canyon and a part of the Frazer at night. This time, going up agaiii, we were at night in the same locality. We resolved not to take a sleeper on our return, but to be ready to look out at the first break of day. Amply were we repaid for our loss of sleep. The whirl along the Thompsoh for flfty miles before reaching the Fn^r is through scenery which may fairly be called terrible. Neva will I forget the pleasure, tinged with perhaps fear, we feU u we (taahed along preelpK^i on thct^Wv mImm a ti^Tt** ^ «^««"» hundred feS aWnje^er 55fl'ch £ 2^«2K SS '^'i'V *"*■• ^« cl,«nM5ter of the countrr JcSSS SS^^: i?^V21& ^■" •bund.nl and the IS^ T^ J^!I* * Wng-lliifed pine instead of flr and tKS?;imI?f r^^^ precipices are reddish In hue, some- tunes almost a TormUlion. The oorires or canvnti..!^ thousands of feet deep, and a« awffl S clSriSSraStKJ ' «' Webber canyon on the Union I^IflcTxhe iJld S him that in passing along this part of the road and and their more peaceful demeanor than that of our oSS au their conditions, from well-behaved savaireH nn to mnt* from the well-behaved down to the lowest savage AU !5^i^^ ^f*^ti n»«M or less industrious Uves. Manv of Mieir hamlets or villages have an air of venr conslde/ ffai^^^r* ^^ ?* "^■* «' *•»« chuiJXJe quite IntelMgent faces and are not illy cUd. One constantly m2« SSf^ifi^^i^ ?*"^' *"** * contractor told me they ^fX^ '*^>M»ds In snowrshed buUding. Thev aro good fljhermen and dig out fine canoes, f think it iSS W^'S^Ar''^?,*^****^^ ^^ "^y o' *he large canoes «S Sfi^^r**^*!! '**' ^*^- ^ e»«mtaed clo^ly a dug-out thlsmortdng. It was upward of thirty feet long and Marly . flve-footbeSm. It i^as cut or dug f^jii a staiintlckoJ cedar. anA};;t the water Bke a dSk, hS rS^^ Uke propo> on at the bow and a shorter one St the stern — auofthe /Smetree. • • • • ^ Now, a lew words anent this mushrpom town f Van- o**^*'^- ,'" •'°"*' 1*««' ** ^» » shanty-buat toin of 2,0Mi»ople. Onthel6th,Ithink.aflrebWeouttaoSe of Ite board hotels. In thirty-two minutes all was swent away«xcept a railroad freight-house ajud one other buUd- Ing. - The wind was blowing a gale. ^ There had been no rain for a month or more. The wooden buUdings were as dry as tinder. The cedar shingles flew like kites, carryinir tte flames not only to the buildings near by, but also to others a^quarter of a mile or more avray* Ifcus firing the doomed town in a half-dozen places almost at the same ^The besona of destruction began its sweep at half-past two o clock in the afternoon, and ran along in such mikl haste ^t no one saved any personal elTects except what covered his b«5k. One of them said to Ine'that it wasas much as the people could do to catty off the shirts they wore. At half-past three there was not a standing stick S-?^^ ^**®'* ^^f *V^ ^^ «*«»<*' «c«Pt two buildings, and they were quite detached firom the closer part; Of tiie ^ To-4aylt is a busy, thriving town of fifom 8,000 to 6,000 !^!SL ^°5f®* "e «otog up in evjBiy quarter. Quite a number of them being quite snbstafltial tw«v« to ry iSrfcks 14 river, which Icy mountains ' the country seen on the dull and the ead of flr and In hue, some- canyons are "acter as that The road in des of slopes • •' »d with fear. >en I remind e road, and riding npon le dominion f Its Indians '• of oar own aborigines In B tip tq more Bs they run savage. AU d mountains Ives. Muiy ry consider- i have quite I constantly le saw-mills, old me they They are ihink it wUl I canoes are ly a dug-out g and nearly . gle stick of g bowsprit- at the stem ■ • . ♦ x)wn (Van- Ht town of ^ i out in one i was swept other build* ad been no igs wei^ as is, carrying, but also to IS firing the It the same Unlike the neighborhood of Solomon's temple, the ■oand of the hammer fills the air from early morning till night has set In. • • • • •• • • *The salmon fishing and canning business is quite large near here on the Fnucer river, ana gives employment to a great many people. The tales told of the great quantities of fish running up the stream in the spawning season sound like fish yams, but I am led to believe are scarcely exaggeration. A fire- man crawldd over the engine when I was perched on the cowcatcher up the Frazer, to tell me the rushing torrent we were about to cross was the Salmon river, and that he had seen the fish so thick near its mouth tJiat one could walk from bank to bank upon them as a bridge. When pushed he admitted that no one had crossed, but that they looked thick enough to make such a bridge. This has been corroborated by several to whom I mentioned the thing. Another man tdld me he had to ford a stream on horse- back ^ not fai* south of the boundary of the United States, and that it was with great difllculty he could get his horse across, so thick were the big fish, and that he killed a large number with a club as he waded through. * * * And flow I bid you a^ long good-by. To-morrow we are promised a certain start, when our race with the sun will, I hope, have no intemiption until we shall have reached tJie loud of tfao mikado. Good-by I : ] Caster H. Harbisoit/ *8lne« the sboTe wu irrittaii Ih* company lukv* oomplctcd • magplflMnt hoUl ll vanooatn', which if now In fUll oprratloii. it half-^MMt : such mad icept what tt It was as shirts they idlng stick buildings, part of tile • 00 to 6,000 . Quite a >ry bricks. '■ P tu a-BHSTBH^AJCi OBTBTCOBIRS, HlAO OmOUl MoNTMAL, CaNAIM. 0. TA^nOBim aBU* DBINKWATRB. . , . Shauuhnrmt. ..... laOMM olm 1KNBT BIATTT ■§ Itaj^ i.V^.SS .Oananl FMMiuNir A|<>nt W. HimiBaLAMD TATLOR .IWurar. tj. A. HAIIII.TOM •••■Land OommlMlonn- ■AOKimiOM •••••••.'' ^JrmoBs , .m. Whitb...., Habbt Abmott. •Montftrr « t.«.,»,,, 'AMlftanlOnuml MaiMftr.... M|m^ mr..,..l.l|. Wnet ■nd Lak« Tm«e. .Townto. WW»'»''''ll«» iloiiiiwl. a«:8u,5::o3Sri7 ui» ;::;::::JEsri!S7' ....0«it. gupn-lntmdenl, KMim DIv muutnm. Om. guprrjntcndmt, WMtarn DIv Wlnatptf. "'neouTW. Innt.>.i ttn75^^:::::::;;;:SMl8« >A«B..AgniU Oecante 8. 8. Co J C. B. MoPhcnn "' ) li. J. Colvin, CI "?!!lY**l>>ii|ton8l. [cr Agt. AKhCTBiaicrLkuroMul Traffic Agt. m ^imal^eC .usHouuaT 8jMli«i8l.,8oiith. tiMj • . Aranin'nucr, European Trail ■ ■■ .i m »»........0«t..W.J. Orant T....... ■I«B*L. dtn»m..ll«Mia. Fraur A Co ■*■■■ K.«li««CiawK..JifMn. AdaiiMun, BailACo-Ascnto _, forChlna , ..Vr..... EmiSra* g2«"A»«.'>wB«J}«»f.«urop«u»TiaffleA||t. T Jamci St fr* X: BUnnar, 0«n. EMtcrn Airt . . .888 Broadwax. ir«w -rWk, ...If.X.. '• Ottenhelmar, Land and En?fgra- ^* '. •*"■"• ilonAnnt 80 State 8t. irtemr«><.ll.Jr .^tg7*«J«»'.a>«»«*ndJaptnA«tmXater8t. » I ■•.•*«•'"*««. «»• -nd FaMcnger ( Comer Third and •i^ Temptak '2at8t. JameiSt. ■) OWaihliigtonSt. rtJCmmrmm»mm,W7r..J»».Joam «iMb««,..........4|M>..J.W.Rfd«r..& W. BiMdinn...... '... *" ■MaskMl, ••.Chlau..Meuri.Adaniion,Bdl*C(>„AgWta _^- ^^_ /fcrQIna. . .^^. . . ■• AjM. .Aggit Oecanle Steamship OotHpany. "••"»* ofc , irMhrTr. .R K^EUie, Frt and Fam. AgentT: I ft9;"S-.?'SV_5"'2LT'«''!*Aiteiit. /* .. — .--- — 'B«C..IIoMrtIrring,nt. and Pais. Act... iQo«^in«ntM: ,l9»m......Smm..a. H. qampBkl,iaty l5k5Agt:::47lS2?«T^"* >a*»«a..Heesrs.FrasarACo.,Agts.forjSNU). '•~"°*- r«iMi TlEU^-V-inT,T,TTTC3- -A.GhSMTrS. J. O. THOmox. W. T. Doonuix.. . . . . K. II, Pbbl.... A. ■. LAtAKDB Jab. MoKBHma ,. J. B. Lambkiii 0.1I. MnxB. J. O. KmiOKET ....... w. L. Obxbmb... O. If. Kumnr... •Tnirelling Wsarngnr Agent. '.Chieam. ■.Toromo. .. »' .•MontNaL •••••faaaa ••••■•••••••••fltt fiml^ J %: :\: . ,H. \t-,^^. 't i