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i, Chief Towns, &o p. 62 CHAnER III. Geology and Mineraloj^ of the Canadas, Soil, Climate, &c p. 161 CHA1»TER IV. Population of the Canadas from the Earliest peridd, and classi- fication of it by Districts and Counties, according to the last Census p. 208 i t CIIAFIER V. Animal and \cgetable Kingdoms, &c. — Staple Products of the Canadas p. 2:i7 CONTEXTS. C HAFIER VI. The Comtnerce, Shipping:, Imports and Exports of Quebec and Montreal ; — Value of the Trade, — "Weights and Mea- sures, — Monetary System, — Banks, &c p. 2C2 CHAPTER VII. ' The Government, Laws, Military Defence, and Finances of thv Canudas p. 27.1 CHAPTER VIII. Religion — Education and the Press -Social State — Emigra- tion—Wages, &c p. 304 CONCLUSION p. 333 ILLUSTRATIONS. View of Quebec To face Title. Great Seal of Upper Canada Title-page. Lower Do Last page. Large Map To face Ist Chapter. Map of Lower Canada 4th Do. Upper Do 6th Do. . lo Tiir. KINCi S MOST KX( ELLENT MAJESTY I\ pliicirif; before Voiu Majesty the pre- ••ent Edition of my Work on tlie Colonies, I avail myself of the opportunity to ex])res.s my deep sense of gratitude for the patronage which Yoir Majksty was graciously pleased to bestow, in per- mitting me the distinguished honour of dedicating the first History of the liritish Colonies to the Sovereign of the greatest Colonial Empire in the World ; and for the favour with which Yovr Ma- jesty, and every branch of the Royal Family, have uniformly regarded :i^)rts, which had for their sole object the promotion »f the public good. Conceiving, Sire, that my duty towards Yoi r Majesty may be most gratefully manifested by a perseverance in my efforts to awaken the attention of the public to the importance of our Colonial Possessions, I havt prepared the present Edition, IV with a view principally to the instruction of the rising generation, and also, to convey information to tfio.se whose attention to the Colonies would not be attracted by an elaborate Statistical VV(»rk. With truth may it be affirmed, Sire, that the trans- marine dominions of your insular Kingdom offer to the Agriculturist, measureless fields for pasture and tillage; — to the Manufacturer, an incalculable ex- tension of the home maiRet for the disposal of his wares ; — to the Merchant and Mariner, vast marts for profitable traffic in every product with which IVature has bounteously enriched tho Earth ; — to the Capitalist, an almost interminable extent for the pro Htable investment of his funds;— and to the indus- trious, skilful, and intelligent Emigrant, an area of upwards two million square miles, where every species of mental ingenuity, and manual labour may be developed and brought into action, with advan- t;ige to the whole family of man. England has no need to manufacture beet root sugar (as France) — her West and East India possessions yield an inexhaustible profusion of the cane;— grain (whe- ther wheat, barley, oats, maize or rice,) every where abounds ; — her American. Asiatic and African pos- sessions contain boundless supplies of timber, corn, coal, iron, copper, gold, hemp, wax, tar, tallow, &c. • — the finest wools are the product of her South Asian regions ; — cotton, opium, silk, coffee, cocoa, tobacco, ■w salt|K'tro, spice.', spirits, wines and fruits, ot every variely ni\<\ to any extent, may bo procured in the Kast and in the West, in the North and in the South of the Kmpire • — on the icy coast of La])rador as well as at the opposite Pole, her adventurous hunters and fishers pursue their ^ig-antic ejanie, almost within sii^ht of their protec tinjj: Mii; ; and on every soil, and under every habita!)le clime, Britons desirous of change, or who cannot obtain occupation at home, may be found implanting, or extending the language, laws and liberties of their Father-land. In fine, Sirk, on this wondrous Empire the solar orb never sets, - whilo the hardy woodsman and heroic hunter, on the St. Lawrence and Ottawa, are shivering beneath a wintry solstice, the peaceful, bat .10 less meritorious farmer and shepherd on the Kysj a and Hawkesbury, are rejoicing o\er the golden grain and fleece of the Autumnal Southern clime ; and every breeze that blows from the Arctic to the Antarctic circles is waftini"- over the un^ fathomable ocean mvriads — ' Wht)se march is on the mountain wave, Whose home is o!\ the deep.' 'J'hat an Empire, Sirk, so extraordinary in its growth, and so exquisitely varied in its structure, is the result of blind chance, it would be impious to assert. Few will be found, with the hardihood of atheism, to deny that an overruling Providence Sf VI guides the actions of men in their individual capa- city ; and it must be evident on the slightest reflec- tion, that the same Power is exercised more ap- parently over man in his collective state, — over principalities, kingdoms, and empires. If, then, Si UK, it be our duty in private life not to neglect, much less spurn, the ))lcssings provided by an unseen but ever-present lieing, how much more imperative is it to attend to those social duties, which our peculiar situation, as citizens of an almost illimitable empire, require to be performed ? It is grievous, however, Sikk, to think how lamentably these duties have heretofore been ne- glected. Our Colonies, which, owing to their youth and distance from the parent state, ought to have ex- cited and called into operation a larger share of ma- ternal interest, have been sadly misused. The in- calculable riches which, from the lap of abundance, they have ever offered to pour forth on the shores of Albion, have been fatuitously, in many instances, rejected ; and the golden opportunity of binding with a silken chain of Commerce, the East, and the West, the North and the South of the Emj>ire, too often sacrificed for the sake of private gain and the promotion of selfish interests. But, Sire, it is to be hoped that the progress of knowledge — the exten- sion of colonial commerce — and the light of the Gospel, with which the ministers of our religion are illumining every land, will awaken attention to Ml the transmarine dominions of P'nf^land ; where the Statesman, i^niderl by the precepts of Christianity, may fortify our enii)ire for ages ; — where the Merehant may in aetivity follow his peaceful and ci- viUzing pursuits; — where the NaturaUst may dehij;ht in scenes of exquisite and endless beauty, adorned with every variety of the animal and vegetable creation ; — where the I'liilanthropist may exult in the progre^sivc improvenient of his fellow-creatures ; — and above ail, where the ( hristian may rejoice in the anticipati(»n of th:it prophesied kingdom, whose f)ranches and ruotsare to extend throughout the universe. In conclusion, Sirf, I beg to express an humble but fervent hope, that the Supreme Dis- poser of events may long ."pare Voir Majksty to rule over our vast Emi)ire, whose extent, wealth and Power, may I trust, be made conducive to the happiness of our fellow creatures of every creed, colour and clime, — and I have the distinguished honour and grutilication to subscribe myself, SiRKj Your Majusty's dutiful subject, ROBERT MONTGOMERY MARTIN. London Jan. 18;?6. ■^' II • i : 1 1 -, i 1 '1 I I .A'" o'i i:n'-':i. i^-' > •*^.4 \ 1 / '1 / ^ ^ ; vrr '" ■ • * /*/i*i»/'y .* .'.^ N -V «"• :> f^ •■■■ ■- *■- i^ f / ; i^K^'i/i I'M' »N.inij,,.. /■«• •'ff-'/^rn *tr.t ^\i K\ 'I'^t, .m ' JT s \ .x<* .»♦ ,> / 0^' .^^ \ / / / / ;^ .>v / ^K, ..r^- ^-^m '^ •^'^•'"W^ ^'^^ •>'. / /It ,>f ^Ci\,^ /,)/,,/ 1UltfU.l,\l l/»\lff.tlf ILL!! M II «1 ai. 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OK 11 li: lU UTISII (OlitMKS vol. 1 . 10NSI,SSIl)N> S IN SDUril AMLKI'^ JniIAM3:i5i('A ■\ Yti^UsU Miles \ '■■"y''.vi'-..//i" ir ,.,A.«/„/ >!■„/ /^itMim Jim/nrtf yf/„. «."-. k/vy \ / / 7^J / 1 .,►• V > f- ^■'" .* .1!"'' ,ii>'' , r-^— llitiOilllt ll-l .■..^■'i' ArtM of l^riii«tli TiTi-ilorii-Ji liiiii^w Jilt;/ *,itt't,vif .<./. .{///m //'/•*»■ f'tltHllfll l.tiU'1- t.lthf'f'l />'M>^.//„ nv.,,;,,,.,, ,...;/,,. :^^^,,., ^^,^^; ^,;^^; ^Miii*- r<.|Mil.»iion ill IJIH J Uu0.> '• r.tfu- l^,yi,.u ,.*/,. ^, n />»w.v /./,.,„./ . .^,,, \ /■•ft// .r- /.;•,«. I»i i**n S I ■.i;rtvwi l.v^ .< ff^ i \ It 1 f ■ A 4^70 f>,if<>n ■ti,:f>" •J ,nni) 10, Hon \ Sfntucift J^ijtph-aniit I7t>finiu 64.nno jV.i'tirttUtm '4,i,Hoo S.f'fiivfifiti. ,-)" >.f.f.fH>" .'Kl",""" ^J2J, ****** J„'f4;f,»tKo l,1l-i.o<*i> .VT.i'o*' jS4,*»Ht ■Jtfi.l'OI* .14:1. 000 t,;,H,,i"i> J.+l,oo<> 4t>i> ,■!.:, I'll" ittthiiiHit ,11, 1*1*1' J4l,»<>i' "=^5i « f i'f "'^y/f' % -■•^« |i.l"l"llW''l- : ^. . ■>i,.t}v *f',"*^-' THE COLONIES OF THE BRITISH EMPIRE. CHAFfER 1. ISTOUY OP CANADA — ITS DISCOVERY, COLONIZATION BY THE FRENCH, AND CAPTURE BY THE BRITISH, &C. ipANADA, SO called from the Iroquois word Kanata, Signifying a collection of huts, and which the early jPuropean discoverers mistook for the name of the Country, embraces that portion of the American Con- llnent which is bounded on the E. by the Atlantic . i|>cei:in and the Gulf of St Lawrence ; on the W by ihe Facitic Ocean ; on the N. by the Hudson Hay itrritory ; and on the S. by the United States, and !>}' a part of New Brunswick. It contains, so far as ian yet be estimated, an area of 350,000 square Itiiles, and is now divided into two Provinces, called (rpper and Lower Canada, — the boundary lines of jWhich will be seen on the map.* * In the large Edition of this Work the complex question of ->|fce boundaries of the British Possessions in N. America is fully 'iSscussed. il VOL. I. » •'.■•/• T 9 THE CANAOAS. f Several individuals claim the honour of having been the discoverers of this portion of the New World J but in a work, whose main object is to place before the British public, a faithful though succinct view of the actual state of the Colonies, a brief description of the early events relating solely to the Canadian Coast, is all that will be requi- site. The celebrated Italian adventurers, John, and his sons Sebastian, Louis, and Sanchez Cabot, who re- ceived a commission on the 5th of March, 1495, from Henry VII. of England to discover what Co- lumbus was in search of — ^a North-west passage to the East Indies or China, or as the latter named country was then called, Cathay,* claim the ho- nour of being the first discoverers of Canada. The adventurers sailed in 1497 "with six ships, and, early in June of the same year, discovered Newfoundland ; whence continuing a westerly course, they reached the Continent of N. America, which the Cabots coasted (after exploring the Gulf of St. Lawrence) as far N. as 67.50 N. Lat. They returned to Eng- land in August, 1497 ; but although Sebastian subsequently performed three voyages to the New World, no settlement was effected on its shores. In 1500, Gaspar Cortereal, a Portuguese gentle- man, visited the coast, and pursued the track of Sir John Cabot (who was knightedby our sovereign), but Cortereal and his brothers accomplished nothing i : i If ^--^ • We know nothing certain of the Spaniards having pre- Tiously visited this part of America. The discovery of Columbus was in 1492, only five years previous to Cabot's voyage. 'n-.v'-^-h. •''■■i.-.T'-**'tn^'' f having he New ct is to though Colonies, ng solely )e requi- , and his , who re- h, 1495, ^hat Co- issage to :r named I the ho- da. The ind, early undland ; yr reached e Cahots iawrence) I to Eng- Sebastian the New [,s shores, je gentle- track of overeign), ed nothing having pre- 3f Columbus lyage. HISTORY. further than the kidnapping of several of the na- tives, whom they employed and sold as slaves. In 1502 Hugh Elliot and Thomas Ashurst, merchants of JJristol, with two other gentlemen, obtained a patent from Henry \'n. to establish colonies in the countries lately discovered by Cabot ; but the result of the permission granted is not known. In 1527 . an expedition wa* fitted out by Henry VIH. by the advice of Robert Thome, a merchant of Bristol, for the purpose of discovering a N. W. passage to the E. Indies, one of the ships attempting which was lost. Francis the First of France, piqued at the disco- veries of Spain and Portugal, and having his ambi- tion roused by the monopolizing pretensions of these t\.o powers to the possessions in the New World, authorized the fitting out of an expedition, the command of which he gave to (iiovanni Verrazano, a Florentine, who, on his second voyage, discovered Florida, and thence sailing back along the American coast to the 50" of lat., took formal possession of the country for his royal master, and called it ' La Nouvelle Frann .' On Verrazano's return to Europe, in 1.525, without gold or silver or valuable mer- chandize, he was at first coldly received, but, it is •aid, subsequently sent out with more particular instructions, and directions to open a communi- cation with the natives ; in endeavouring to fulfil "which he lost his life in a fray with the Indians. This however is denied ; and it is asserted, that the capture of Francis the First at the battle of Tavia in 1525, prevented him from further ezplor- ii '«ri 'rr.ij'ir I 'ii'iOTiv •#. THE CANAOAS. 1:..-,, ing the coast, and that he returned to his native country, and died in obscurity. When the Govern- ment, however, ceased to follow up the result of V'errazano's formal acquisition of Canada, the French- men of St. Maloes commenced a successful fishery at Newfoundland, whicli, so early as 1517, had 50 ships belonging- to the English, Spanish, French, and Portuguese, engaged in the cod fishery on its banks. Jacques Cartier, a native of St. Maloes, en- gaged in the Newfoundland fishery, took the lead in exploring, at his own risk, the N. coasts of the new hemisphere. This bold and experienced navigator at last received a commission from his sovereign, Francis the First, and left St. Maloes!20th April, 153 1, with two vessels of 60 tons each ; arrived at New- foundland on the 10th May j remained there 10 days, and then sailed to the northward ; passed through the straits of Bellisle, changed his course somewhat to the southward, traversed the great Gulf of St. Lawrence (already known to Europeans), and, on the 9th July arrived in the Bay of Chaleurs, which he so termed on account of its heat. On the 24th July, Cartier was at Gaspe, where he erected a cross, surmounted by a Jicur-de-lys, and on the 25th July, sailed for France with two native Indians. The enter- prizing character of his royal master induced him to despatch Cartier in the following year with three larger vessels, and a number of young gen- tlemen as volunteers. The ships rendezvoused at Newfoundland, and in August sailed up the St. Law- rence, so called from its being discovered on the loth day of that month, being the festival of the 1! ^1 ' v,H.,^i ^j ^ji »j j ^j, ,^i j im i ^j tMy,, - •y-:ril,1531, at New- e 10 days, rough the hat to the Lawrence ! 9th July so termed y, Cartier rmounted ly, sailed he enter- luced him year with )ung gen- voused at ; St. Law- ed on the al of the HISTORY. V Saint of that name. Cartier anchored off Quebec, then called Stadacoiia, and the abode of an Indian chief, named Donnaconna. After leaving his ships secure, he pursued his route in the pinnace and two boats, until (on the .Srd October) he reached an is- land in the river, with a lofty mountain, which he named Mont- Royal, now called Montreal. After losing many of his followers from scurvy, during hib wintering at Stadaconna, which he named St. Croix, Cartier returned to France in 1536*, carrying off by force ])onna( onna, two otherchiefs, and eight natives. The French court finding that no gold or silver was to be had, jKiid no further attention to La Nouvelk France or Canada, until the year 1.540, when Cartier, after niuch exertion, succeeded in getting a royal expedition fitted out under the command of Fran- ^•ois de la K»k 1I18TOKY. as called struggle F Spain ; fortune, loberval, for Ca- Achille, ng men ; of, they ly Queen en Eliza- r his own 5 mundic, [uantities me mer- r, to seek Euior and a N. W. my other ^old ore, In 1578, lean con- earch of who re- ore } the eived with in the dif- e generally fact, however, shews the speculative avidity of mer- cantile adventure at that period. For 50 years France puid no attention to Canada, jind the few settlers or their descendants left by Car- tier or Ruberval, were unheeded and unsuccoured j hut in 159H the taste for colonial adventure revived, and Henry I\'. appointed the Marquis de la Roche his lieutenant-general in Canada, with power to partition di>covered lands into seigniories and lieis, to be held under feudal tenure, and as a com- pensation for military service when required. La Roche fitted out but one vessel, and unfortunately reinforced his crew with 40 malefactors from the prisons. It is suflicient here to state, that Sable island, a barren sand bank, and a rude part of Acadia (now called Nova Scotia), were first settled on, and afterwards abandoned ; and that to private enterprize, nither than to royal decrees, the French nation were at last indebted for a jiermanent and profitable colonization in Canada. M. Pontgrave, a merchant of St. Malo, who had distinguished him- self by making several profitable fur voyages to Ta- doussac, at the mouth of the Str^enay river, en- gaged as an associate M. Chauvin, a naval officer, who obtained from Henry IV. in l(jOO, a commis- sion, granting him an exclusive trade with Canada, and other privileges. Chauvin associated other per- sons with him iu his enterprize, and made two suc- cessful trading voyages to Tadoussac, where the In- dians gave the most valuable furs in exchange for mere trifles. Chauvin died in 1603, but commander De (^batte, or De Chaste, governor of Dieppe, 1 1 I , ' 1 1 Hi THK CANAPAS, W- R founded a company of merchants at Rouen, to carry on the fur trade on an exten.sive scale ; an arma- ment was equipped under Pontgnive and a distin- puished navnl oflicer named Samuel Champlain, who sailed up the St. Ltiwrence, as far as ^»ault St. Louis in 1(»03. On the death of Cliauvin, which hapi)ened in the ensuing year, Pierre Dugast, Sieur de Monts, a calvinist, and gentleman of the bed- chamber to Henry IV., received a patent, conferrinff on him the exclusive trade and government of the territory, situate between the 40" and 54** of lat. ; and, although of the reformed religion, the Sieur was enjoined to convert the native Indians to the Roman Catholic tenets, De Monts continued the company founded by his predecessors, and fitted out an expedition in 1604 of four vessels, two of which were destined for Acadia, then an object of attrac- tion. Suffice it to say, that trading ])osts were esta- blished at several places j the fur trade prosperously carried on; the Acadian colony neglected; and Quebec, the capital of the future New France, founded by Samuel Champlain on the 3rd July, 1608. The various Indian tribes contiguous to the new settlement, namely, the Algonquins, the Hurons, &c. who were at war with the Iroquois, or Five Nations, solicited and obtained the aid of the French ; Champlain taught them the use of fire-arms, which the Iroquois also acquired from their English friends in the adjacent territory ; and hence began the ruinous wars, which have ended in the nearly total extermination of the In- dians of the North American Continent, wherever f*" ;.l'*;: 'i: \ s t I118TURY. they have come in contact with the Europeans and their descendants. Hut little success attended the first colonization on the banks of the St. Lawrence; in lfl<^^i It years after its establishment, Quebec had not a jjupulation exceeding: 50 souls.* The mischicNoiis policy of making rcli«:ion (and that of th#' Jesuit caste; a part of the colonial policy, long hani{K'rcd the French settlers ; and to remedy the distressed condition of the colony, the commerce of Canada, heretofore vested in the hands of one or two individuals, was transferred in lfi'27* to a power- ful association called the Company of a hundred partners, composed of clergy and liity, under the special management of the celebrated Cardinal Richelieu. The primary object of the Company was the conversion of the Indians to the Catholic faith, by means of zealous Jesuits j the secondary, an extension of the fur trade, of commerce gene- rally, and the discovery of a route to the Pdcilic Ocean and to China, through the great rivers and lakes of New France. This company held Canada, or New France, with the extensive privileges of a feudal seigniory under the King, to whom were owing fealty and homage, and the presentation of a crown of gold at every new accession to the throne ; with the right of soil, a monopoly of trade was granted, the King reserving for the beneiit of ail his subjects, only the cod and whale fisheries in the gulf and coasts of St. Law- * The first child born in Quebec of French parents was the son of Abraham Martin and Margaret L'Anglois ; it was chris- tened Eustache on the 24th October, 1621. I.: im THE CAXADAS. rence j and to such colonists as might not be ser- vants of the company, was secured the right of trading with the Indians for peltries (skins), it being understood that, on pain of confiscation, they should bring all their beaver skins to the factors of the company, who were bound to purchcise them at 40 sous a piece. Under the new system, " Protestants and other Heretics," as well as Jews, were entirely excluded from the colony, and a Jesuit corps was to be supported by the Company. Thus monopoly and bigotry went hand-in-hand, and no auspicious Providence attended the eflbrts of such a selfish and fanatic project. The very first vessels despatched by the new re- ligio-commercial-company for Quebec, were cap- tured by the English. In 1628 a squadron of English vessels, under the command of Sir David Kertk, a French refugee, visited Tadoussac, and de- stroyed the houses and cattle about Cape Tourmente j Kertk and his little band next proceeded to Gasp^ bay, where he met M. De Roquemont, one of the hundred partners, commanding a squadron of ves- sels, freighted with ^'migrant families, and all kinds of provisions j Roquemont was provoked to a bat- tle, and lost the whole of his fleet, provisions, &c. ; and the last hope of the colony of Quebec was blasted by the shipwreck of two Jesuit missionaries, on the coast of Nova Scotia, in a vessel laden with provisions for the starving colonists, who were now reduced to an allowance of five oz. of bread per day. Kertk, reinforced by some more English vessels, commanded by his two brothers, sent them up the St. ■*^s«lM»^ HISTORY. 11 ; be ser- right of ins), it on, they factors mrchcise system, is Jews, a Jesuit . Thus and no f such a new re- ;re cap- dron of ir David and de- rmente ; ) Gasp6 e of the of ves- dl kinds a bat- is, &C. ; )ec was onaries, en with ere now per day. vessels, J the St. Lawrence, when they easily captured Quebec, on the ^Oth July, 16'29 : and, on the ^Oth October, Cham- plain arrived at Plymouth, on his return to France, most of his countrymen having however remained in Canada. VVhile Quebec was being captured by Kertk and his English squadron, peace was under ratification between England and France ; and in \6:i^Z, (the latter power having previously opened a negotiation with England), Quebec, Acadia (Nova Scotia), and Isle Royii). (Caf)e Breton), were ceded to France, and Champlain resumed the government of Canada. The Jesuits, with their accuatomed zeal, commenced anew their efforts j and from this period to the final British conquest in 1760, a rivalship and growing hostility, partly religious and partly commercial, took place between the French and English settlers in North America, which were evinced by mutual aggressions, waile profound i)eace existed between tlieir respective sovereigns in Euroj)e. In KM 4 Montreal was ceded to the religious order of Sulpicians of Paris, whose property it became, and the gradual breaking down of the monopoly of the 1(X) partners, encouraged the spread of coloniza- tion and an attention to agriculture, instead of an exclusive consid -ration for the precarious traffic in furs. In 1663 the proceedings of the company be- came so obnoxious, that the King of France decided upon the immediate resumption of his rights, and the erecting of C^anada into a royal government : Monsieur de Mesy was appointed governor, and proceeded from France to Queber with 400 regular I •Wk . f 12 TnE CANADAS. troops J and 100 families as settlers, with cattle, horses, and implements of agriculture. Under the Royal jurisdiction, the Governor, a King's Commissioner, an Apostolical Vicar, and four other Gentlemen, were formed into a Sovereign Council, to whom were confided the powers of cog- nizance in all causes, civil and criminal, to judge in the last resort according to the laws and ordinances of France, and the practice of the Parliament of Paris, reserving the general legislative powers of the Crown, to be applied according to circumstiinces. This Council was further invested with the regulation of commerce, the expenditure of the public monies, and the establishment of inferior Courts at Three Rivers and Montreal. This change of Canada, from an ecclesiastical mission to a secular government, \\as owing to the great Colbert, who was animated by the example of Great Britain, to improve the navigation and commerce of his country by colonial establishments. The enlightened policy of this renowned finan- cial Minister of Louis XIV. was followed by the success which it deserved. To a regulated civil go- vernment was added increased military protection against the Iroquois Indians 3 the emigration of French settlers to New France was promoted by every possible means ; and a martial spirit was im- parted to the population, by the location in the colony of the disbanded soldiers of the Carignan regiment (consisting of 1000 foot,) and other troops, whose officers became the principal seigneurs of the th cattle, '^ernor, a car, and jovereign s of cog- judge in rdlnances of Paris, e Crown, s. This iijition of monies, at Three esiastical •wing to example tion and shments. d finan- i by the civil go- rotection at ion of loted by was im- 1 in the Jarignan r troops, rs of the -•■vjf HISTORY. 13 colony, on condition of making cessions of land under the feudal tenure, as it still exists, to the sol- diers and other inhabitants. The ambitious projects of Louis XIV. require no comment. They were not conlined to Europe, but embraced every part of the globe, wherever tiie wily monarch or politic Colbert thought it practicable for Frenchmen to find a footing. With this view, the French West India Company was re-modelled, and Canada added to their possessions, subordinate to the crown of France, with powers controlled by His Majesty's Governors and intendants in the different Colonies. The royal edict, conferring civil and military powers on the West India Company, similar to those granted to our East India Comjjany, after stating the motives of the sovereign, thus proceeds : — ' Wc herein' establish a West India Company, to be com- posed of persons already interei^ted in the Continent of Ame- rica, and others of our subjects who may wish to become stockholders, for the purpose of carrying on the commerce of that eountiv, from the river Amazon to the Oronoco; likewise the islands Antilles (possessed by P'renchmeu), Canada, L'Aca- die, both continent and islands, from the North of Canada to Virginia and b'loiiJa ; also the coast of Africa, from Cape Verd to the Cape of Good Hope, so far as the said Company may be able to penetrate, whether the said countries may now apper- tain to us, as beinp, or having been, occupied by Frenchmen, or in so far as the said Company shall establish itself by ex- terminating or conquering the nadves or colonists of such European nations as are not our allies.* The following curious particulars shew more clearly the object and intentions of the founders of this once celebrated Company : — •j »fc*i-">'-f ?---.. 14 THE CANADAS. I 1. 'The Company is bound to c-Mry out a sufficient number of priests, and to build churchef ^nd houses for their accom- modation, and for the performance of their holy functions. 2. An interest in the Company should not derogate from the privileges of the nobility of the kingdom. .3. The stock or shares were made transferable, and the revenue or profits of them alone could be attached for debts owing by the holders, even to the King himself. 4. The Company was to enjoy a monopoly of the territories and the trade of the colonies thus conceded for 40 years : it was not only to enjoy the exclusive navigation, but his Majesty conferred a bounty of 30 livres on every ton of goods exported to France ; and such imported colonial merchandize as had paid the custom and other duties on consumption, could be re-exported by the Company, with- out any charge of export duty. 5. The company was not only endowed as seigneur with all the vmconceded lands, but invested with the right of extinguishing the titles of seigniories granted or sold by previous companies, on condition of reimbursing the grantees and purchasers or their costs and improvements. 6. The King assumed all claims of previous companies estab- lished in the colonies by himself or his predecessors ; and the new Company was invested with all the seigniorial rights and dues already, borne by the inhabitants as seigniorial vassals, with power to commute or modify them, as well as to make new grants or sales. 1. The Company was to have a right to all mines and minerals, the power of levying and recruiting soldiers within the kingdom, manufacturing arms and ammu- nition for the defence of their possessions, building forts, and even declaring and canning on war by sea and land against the native Indians or neighbouring foreign colonies, in case of insult. 8. To add to the splendour of the Company, a coat of arms was also granted; but it was ordered that when those arms should be affixed to warlike instruments and equipments, they should be surmounted by the royal arms of France. 9. The administration of justice was to be according to the laws and ordinances of the kingdom and the custom of Paris, and no other custom was to be introduced* into the colonies. 10. To encourage emigration, as well as to gratify the present in- l *^. -.^N % * ■i* ' ■ f nt number leir accom- tctions. 2. from the le stock or •• profits of le holders. to enjoy a V [onies thus 3 exclusive livres on 1 imported ther duties »any, with- us not only ut invested es granted ■.■- jinibursing , i rovements. nies estab- j ; and the rights and al vassals, 3 to make a right to recruiting id ammu- forts, and igainst the in case of , a coat of - \ ■ hen those uipments, ance. 9. 3 the laws Paris, and nies. 10. resent in- HISTORY. 15 habitants, all colonists and converts professing the Romish faith, were declared capable of enjoying the same rights in France and in the Colonies as if they had been bom and re- sided within the kingdom. 11. Lastly, in this munificent edict, his Majesty agrees to advance one-tenth of the whole stock, without interest, for four years, subject to a proportion of all losses which might be incurred during that period by the Company.' As might have been expected, the proceedings of this Company soon excited genera! murmurs in Ca- nada J and, in two years, namely on the 8th April, 1666, the Royal Arrf^t of the Council of State granted to the Canadians (as the French colonists are termed), the trade in furs, subject to an allow- ance of one-fourth of all beaver skins, and one-tenth of all buffalo skins, and the total reservation to the Company of the trade of Tadoussac, situate about 75 miles below Quebec, at the mouth of the Sa- guenay river. This arrangement, although intended to diminish the temptation to smuggling, which ex- clusive privileges and high duties engender, failed to produce the expected result -, and the records of the colony present the usual routine of contraband artifices for evading the payment of heavy duties on me'rchandize. War was continued to be waged by the French colonists against the Iroquois, or Mohawk Indians (who were in alliance with the English colonists, then occupying the territories around New York) j and a French army, consisting of 28 companies of regular troops, and the whole militia of the colony, marched 700 miles from Quebec into the Mohawk territory, during the depth of winter, for the purpose of utterly extirpating the Indians, 16 THE CANADAS. 1 i who, however, retired, leaving only a few women, children, and sachems (old men), who were merci- lessly slain by the disappointed Frenchmen. For purposes of military defence, forts were constructed at the mouths of the river Sorel and Chambly j and, by a royal edict, the Canadians were directed to con- centrate their settlements, no lands being permitted to be cleared or cultivated but such as were conti- guous to each other.* This circumstance accounts for the peculiar military style of the French Ginadian townships, and is one of the causes of the S. E. frontier having been nearly deserted, and exposed to the territorial pretensions of the United States. , . Unhappily for the colonists, the Governor General (then more than 70 years of age) confirmed, in 1667, to the West India Company within Canada, the same rights, privileges, and authorities, as had been en- joyed by the unfortunate company of 100 partners before mentioned ; but Monsieur De Talon, the Intenchmt, a man of profound views, soon perceived that it was the natural interest of the Company to discourage colonization. He represented to the mi- nister Colbert the absolute necessity of the total •* There was good cause for this edict, by reason of the re- taliation of the Iroquois for the murder of their wives and children, and the transportation of their warriors in chains to the galleys in France, whenever the French colonists could come upon their villages by surprize. The Marquis de Tracy made one incursion into an Iroquois settlement. The Indians saved themselves by flight ; but a few old men, women, and children, were slaughtered by the French, and the massacre was celebrated by a Te Deum, in the cathedral of Quebec, by order of the Governor General ! V. I women, re merci- en. For nstnicted blyj and, d to con- permitted ere conti- accounis Canadian the S.E. iposed to ites. r General ,in 1667, the same been en- partners ilon, the perceived npany to 3 the rai- the total of the re- wives and 1 chains to lists could 5 de Tracy he Indians 3men, and massacre tuebec, by HISTORY. */ sumption of the rights of the crown ; drew his •ttention to the means of obtaining abundance of "Warhke instruments and naval stores within the Colony, pointed out the iron mines of St Maurice, the oak and pine masts on the liorders of the St. iLawrenre for ship building;, the capabilities of the #oil for a:rowinir abiindanre of hemp, &c., and, in feet, at last j)revailed : so that, in 1(.74, the King of if ranee resumed his rights to all the territories eon- teded to the West India Company, assumed their idebts and the (urrenl value of their stock, and ap- pointed a (io\ernor, Ccmncil, and Judges, for the ireeiion of the Canadian colonies. A minute detail of local occurrences would be t of })lace in a work of this nature ;* it may be liulHcient to say, that from this period (1674), when ^hc population, embracing converted Indians, did not *ixceed H.tXK), the French settlement in Canada fapidly progressed, and as it rose in power, and ^tesumed ofllensive operations on the New England 'Ifrontier. the jealousy of the British colonists became foused, and both jjarties, aided alternately by the Indians, carried on a destructive and harassing Voider warfare. And here it may not be amiss to observe, how much the progress of the British co- lonists in New York, New England, &c., and the * In 16H2, the Mississipi (which the Canadian Indians had previously discovered to tiie French) was descended to the sea )y M. (If la S lies, and all the country watered by that mighty iver taken mimiiia! possession of in the name of Louis XIV., honour ot whom it was called Lvuigiuna, VOL. 1. C *. ■ ■i i 'I] ^ 18 THE CANADAS. prosperity of the French in Canada, were influenced during successive years by the strength and moral character of their respective sovereigns. I may allude, for instance, to the licentious reign of Louis XV., and the vigorous administration of William III., during whose governments the progress of their respective colonies was retarded or advanced by the example or stimulus aflForded by the mother country ; thus demonstrating how much, under a monarchy, the character and happiness of nations are influenced by the principles and habits of their rulers. For many years, the French in Canada made head against the assaults of their less skilful, but more persevering neighbours, owing to the active co- operation and support which they received from their Indian allies, whom the British were by nature less adapted for conciliating; but at length the latter, seeing the necessity of native co-operation, conciliated the favour of the aborigines, and turned the tide of success in their own favour. The hosti- lities waged by the Indians were dreadful. Setting little value on life, they fought with desperation, and gave no quarter j protected by the natural fast- nesses of their country, they chose in security, their own time for action, and when they had enclosed their enemies in a defile, or amidst the intricacies of the forest, the war whoop of the victor and the dep' i shriek of the vanquished were almost simul- , U iieously heard ; and while the bodies of the slain served for food * to the savage, the scalped head of * According to the French historians of the day. ■^! ere influenced l:h and moru] rns. I rnav ign of Louis 1 of William progress of or advanced y the mother ich, under a if nations are f their rulers, la made head il, but more e active co- ceived from ;re by nature ; length the ;o-operation, , and turned The hosti- ul. Setting desperation, natural fast- curity, their ad enclosed intricacies tor and the iiost simul- of the slain ped head of he day. HISTORY. 10 e white man was a trophy of glory, and a booty no inconsiderable value to its possessor.* The nadians themselves sometimes experienced the morseless fury of their Indian forces. On the i6th of July, 1688, Le Rat, a chief of the Htiron iribe, mortified by the attempt of the French com- manders t<» negotiate a peace with the Iroquois #r Five Nations, without consulting the wishes of Hieir Huron allies, urged his countrymen, and even ftiinulated the Iroquois, to aid him in an attack on Itfontreal. The colonists were taken by surprize, a tlious; id of them slain, and the houses, crops, and tBttIo on the ishmd destroyed. Charlevoix, in his fcistory of La NouveUe France, says of the Indians, *Ils ouvrirent le sein des feiimies emeiutes pour en 4|rracher le fruit qu' elles portoient, ils mirent des #nfans tout vivant a la broche, et contraignirent les meres de les tourner pour les faire rAtir !' The J'rench, reinforced from Europe, sent a strong force Id February, 1C90, who massacred the greater part ©f the unresisting inhabitants of Shenectaday. Ac- «ording to Colden, p. 78, the Indians whom the French took prisoners in the battle at Shenectaday, %ere cut into pieces and boiled to make soups for the indian allies who accompanied the French ! Such %ere the desolating effects of European coloniza- tion on the continent of America, equalling, in fact, as regards the destruction of humun life, the miseries • For every human scalp delivered into the Canadian War Department, a sum of 40 livres was paid ; to our credit be it ' :iaid, such barbarism was not pursued by the New England Colonies. 10 TUE (;ANADA8. ,■■• ' inflicted by the Spaniards on the more peaceful and fcehle Indians of the West India islands. . The massacre of the Indians at Shenectaday by the French, had the effect of inducing the Iroquois and otlicr nations to become more closely attached to the English , and tlie French were compelled to act on the defensive, and keep within their own ter- ritory. Our countrymen at Albany were at iirst so much alarmed at the determined hostility of the French, that they prepared to abandon the territory ; but, at this crisis, the New England colonies came fo an understanding, and formed a coalition for their nuitual defence. Commissioners were sent to New N'ork, and a mission Uespatched to London, explain- ing their views, and soliciting aid towards the successful completion of the naval and military exj)edition which w.ii planned against the French settlements in Canada, in 1690. What a signal change had taken place in the views and rehitive position of the parties, when, but :i few years after, those very colonists sent to France — whose di>minion in Canada they had been the chief instrumeiits in annihilating — for succour and support in their war of independence against Great Britain ! The plan of attack on Canada by the New Eng- land colonists, which they fitted out at an ex- pence of n for their nt to New n, explain- wards the d military he French ace in the when, but to France ;n the chief tid support .t Britain ! ew Eng- it an ex- tm at that lland navi- ch; and, Ith a snail sea from e English M HISTUmeC. n was undisciplined; it consi-tcd of clonists nho were stimulated by deadly resentment to .iven iie murder of their numerous rehitives and friend who had been slain by the IVeneii and their Indian ujiies. Quebec was formally summoned l)y Sir W. I'hippft to surrender, and bravely defended by the Sienr de Frontenae, who eompelled his foes to return to Koston with considerable loss in ships and men, owint^ to the delay and bad management of the commander, who, had he persevered in Ills elforts, would undoubtedly have starved out the garrison. The attaek on Quebec by land, had, without waiting for co-operating with the fleet, previously failed ; so that the French were thus enabled to meet and de- feat their enemies in detail, a policy whidi a good general, when assailed by superior numbers, will usually adopt. The French, feeling secure in their dominions, nished forward their out-posts with vigour by means f the fur traders,* and more than ever alarmed * The fur trade, which so long excited the cupidity and ostility of the English and French in their early intercoursi' ith the American continent, is thus described by the intelli- ent writer of a pamphlet printed and published in Canada, in 18 J8, relating to the political annals of the colony. — It con- •isted of two parts: Ist. The tiade carried on at the great If annual fairs in the cities, particularly in Montreal, where the Indians themselves brought their furs to market. This local trade was open to all the colonists, subject to a contribution of one fourth of the beaver, and one tenth of the buffalo skins, to the French King, which right his Majesty farmed out to certain patentees, ox farmers i^cneral. These farmers general, by an abuse common in Frer?.ch finances, contrived to purchase biost of the furs, but more particularly the beaver and buffalo, ( 5*2 THB CANADA!!. the contiguous English colonists, who now became daily convinced of the impossibility of both nations fr(»m tho merchants, hlcndinR together into one trRn«actiori the rocf ipt of the (•ontiil)Utit)n, and the purchase of the rt- njainder; and this species of nic»nopoly continiu-d till the year 1701, when the merchanta obtained a royal edict for the cp tabliuhmcnt of a company, to consist of all persons willing t > hecome associates, for shares of r)0 livres each. Holders ul 20 shares wore entitled to deliberate in all ineetinRs, and mifcht be chosen Directors of the Company. The whole of the beuver trade, and the claims of the Crown upon it, were grante, as a royal the colony, ent of tradr (lount of oni the returns, two canoes, license had )r this trade, l.'j percent. price of th'. income, in 1 adventure, ant a profit wns tvi eacli is regulated canoe -men it interested ht to divide remaining as rivals on the same continent ; the French seeking dominion by military power and conquest — the Enj2;lish by an ertefi«ion of the artn of peace, uidtHl by a liberal spirit. The latter, therefore, rrsolved on usint; every pf)ssi!)le means for the total expulsion of their (iallic neif^hbours from (Canada, who refustnl the offer made to them to remain pacific while the mother countries were at war. The main object of Frontenac was to take possession of every point calculated to extend the dominion of France ; to cut oflF the English from the surplus of the returns, after the cost of license, merchan- dize, and 400 per cent, profit to the merchant, had been reim- bursetl. Those privileges excited u spirit of enterprise among the young colonists ; and alniost every father of a family looked to the inland fur trade as a means <>{ regular employment to part of his children. This employment had alto peculiar attractions ; and the canoe-man, though originally intending merely to obtain a little money to be employed in clearing and stocking a farm, fre(iuently dissipated his share cf the returns, and undertook another voyage. In this manner, the avails of the fur trade were not so subservient fo colonization as the King expected ; but they must have contributed something towards the im- provement of the country ; and, in a political point of view, the effects of this trade upon the colonial population were important, in breeding up a class of men familiarised with the dangers and j)nvatiuns of a long inland navigation, ami fitting them to co-operate with the Indian allies of France in har- rassing thf* British colonies The brilliant accounts given by the canoe-men of the scenes which they had visited, combined with the military spirit diffused among the settlers by the dis- banded soldiers, rendered the Canarlian militia ambitious to acc(jmpany the regular forces m desultory warfare ; and, for many years before the conquest, it was the common boast of a Canadian, that he had been employed in an expedition against the; Knglish on the BelJe Riviere or Ohio. 1 II f . I I i' .%■ I •«• u THE CANADAS. the fur trade •, and, finally, to hem them in between the Highlands of Nova Scotia and the Alleghany Mountains. He began by checking the incursions of the Iroquois, whom he weakened so much by destruf'tive warfare, and hemmed so closely in by a judicious distribution of military stations or forts, as to prevent them ever after from making an im- pression on Canada, such as they had been wont to produce. Frontenac's next step was the prepara- tion, in I(i97, of a large armament to co-operate with a strong force from France, which was destined for the conquest of New York ; but while the brave and active Canadian Governor was preparing to take the field, the news arrived of the treaty of peace between France and England, concluded at Ryswick, 11th Sept. 1697, much to the dissatisfaction of Frontenac, who died in the following year. The renewal of the war between (ireat Britain and France in May, 1702, soon led to acrimony and hostility in America; and the cruel perst^cutions of the Protestants in France caused a religious animo- sity to be superadded to the hatred entertained by the New Englanders towards their neighbours, whose numbers had now increased to about 15,000. In 17 08 the Marquis de Vaudreuil carried his operations into the British frontier settlements, having previously negociated for the neutrality of the Iroquois, who were flattered by being treated as an independent power ; but the destruction of the village of Haverhill, and the massacre of some of its inhabitants, compelled the Canadians again to assume a defensive position. The New Englanders made every preparation for an attack on Montreal by land j but the Enghsh forces • •-f^-w-* f^-^uimmw - ^ 'm * » n» L -ig*- »» ■ iw^»*r*',*' 1 HISTORy. 25 in between Alleghany incursions much by ^ly in by a s or forts, ng an im- in wont to e prepara- co-operate IS destined the brave ng- to take ' of peace Ryswick, faction of • at Britain niony and cutions of js animo- led by the rs, whose ►. In 17 08 tions into jreviously who were it power ; ;rhill, and compelled position, ion for an ish forces destined for the co-operation by the St. Lawrence ri- ver were required for Tortugal ; and tlius the Marquis de Vaudreui! had time to make better ])reparations for defence, The ensuing year (I70y) was spent by the English in reducing Acadia, now \ova Scotia; and when the combined land and sea expedition a^.iinst Canada took place in I7II, it was so ill-ma- naged, and the liritish fleet, owing to tempestuous •weather and ignorance of the coast, met with so many disasters, losing by shipwreck in one day (the 2^nd of August), 8 transports, 884 officers, soldiers, and seamen, that the expedition returned to Boston, and the restoration of peace between France and England by the treaty of Utrecht in 1713, left the former yet a little longer to harrass and molest he Kritish colonists along the Canadian frontier.* The Marquis de Vaudreuil availed himself of the peace to strengthen the fortifications of Quebec and Montreal ; the training of the military — amounting to r>,(KX) in a population of •2,'j,()(M) t — was carefully attended to — barracks were constructed — and a di- rect assessment levied on the inhabitants for the sup- pr)rt of the troops and the erection of fortifications. During ten years of foreign and internal tranquillity, the trade and property of Canada made rapid pro- gress ; in 1723, U) vessels cleared from Quebec, laden with peltries, lumber, stones, tar, tobacco, ♦ So impngimble was Qufbcc then considered, that the W Mgs of that day mudc its atti.'inptcd capture one of tfie arti- cles of impeachment against llarley, Karl uf Oxford. t Quebec in 1720 had a popiilation of 7,000, and Mont'-^al * 3,000. I! r. ,*. -.Wi •- '- 2fi TBIS CANADAS. 4 t S;. * i^v: flour, pease, pork, &c. ; and six merchant ships and two men of war were built in the colony. The death of the INlarquis de Vaudreuil in October, 1725, was deservedly lamented by the Canadians. He was succeeded in 17^26 by the Marquis de lieau- harnois, (a natural son of Louis XI V^.) whose ambi- tious administration excited yet more tlie alarm and jealousy of the English colonists of New York and New England, while the intrigues of the Jesuits with the Indians, contributed not a little to bring about the final struggle for dominion on the American Continent, between the two most powerful nations of Europe. The war between Great Britain and France in 1745, led to the reduction in that year of Cape Bre- ton, by a British naval and military force, combined with the provincial troops of the New England Co- lonies ; but the successful battle of Fontenoy roused the martial spirit of the Canadians to attempt the re-conquest of Nova Scotia, in 174(> and 1747, in which they failed, and the treaty of Aix-La-Chapelle in 1748 suspended further hostilities. Commission- ers were then appointed to settle a boundary line between the British and French territories in North America. The object of the French was to confme the Eng lish within the boundary of the Alleghany moun- tains, and prevent their approach to the Lakes, the St. Lawrence, the Mississippi, (where the former were now establishing themselves), and their tribu tary streams. The Canadian (Government, without any authority from home, and accompanied by a :-¥f,*.,: l\i HISTOKY. 27 I 41 display of military pomp, calculated to impress on the minds of the Indians the idea that France would assert her territorial right to the limits marked, pro- ceeded to survey the projected line of demarcation l)etween the possessions of France and those which the Canadian Governor was pleased, in his liheralitij, to assign to England -, leaden plates, bearing the royal arms of France, were sunk at proper distances, and the whole ceremony was concluded with much formality. Such an impradent step, it may be ima- , gined, seriously alarmed the Indians, as well as the English, and terminated in their active co-operation jfor the utter expulsion of the French from North |,America. In j)ur8uance of the line of policy marked out by Ithe French counsels at home and in Canada, the [Jesuits were employed to intrigue with the Acadians iHor descendants of the early French inhabitants, with ithe view of prevailing on them to quit Nova Scotia, and resort to a milittiry post now estabHshed beyond [its frontier, on the Canada side, where a new colony [was to be formed, in aid of which the royal sanction I was granted for an appropriation of 8(X),0(K) livres. ICornwallis, the Go\ ernor of Nova Scotia, soon con- [vinced the French that he was aware of their pro- iceedings ; he caused a fort to be erected opposite the French, near the Iky of Fundy, on the side of [the river Beaubassin 3 placed it under the command of Major Laurence, and caused to be captured at the month of the St. John river, a vessel laden with supi)Iies for the French. Wiiile these measures were |in progress, the French commenced enforcing their ^28 THE CANADAS. t: tt:- r if I power along- tVic line of demarcation they had marked out ; three individuals who had licenses to trade from their respective English Governors with the Indians on the Ohio were seized by the French, and carried prisoners to Montreal, whence, after severe treatment and strict examination, they were at length liberated, with injunctions not to trespass on the French territories. The intrigues of the Jesuits with the Iroquois to detach them from the English, were so far successful that the Indians permitted the French to erect the fort La Presentation, near their border ; and, but for the perseverance and wonderful intluence of Sir Willifim Johnston, the wily character of the Cana- dians, would have gone far to frustrate the confe- deracy forming between the English and Indians for the expulsion of the F'rench ; whose downfall was ultimately occasioned by the corruption that pre- vailed within the colony, and the scandalous jobs that the very highest authorities not only winked Jit but profited by. The arrival of the iNIarquis du Quesne de Menneville, in 175*2, as Governor of Canada, Lou- isiana, Cape Breton, St. John's and their Dependen- cies, gave indications that hostiUties might soon be expected in Europe ; and the activity of the Marquis was displayed* in training and organizing the mili- tia for internal defence ; detachments of regulars, ;|i: !•■ * In this year a 74 gun-ship was built for the government in Canada, but owing to son\o mismanagement she was hogged in launching near Capo Diamond. Two cargoes of Canadian wiieat were shipped at the same period for Marseilles ; the arrival of which was very justly hailed with great satisfaction in France. •^1 ■f^^ . 41^-*^ ...^^^^tH*»^^*T *lr'«»'^ -■^•fH-'^m'-imn- HISTORY. «>9 1 marked to trade with the inch, and er severe at length ,s on the oquois to iuccessful erect the and, but ice of 8ir :he Cana- he ccjule- idians for onfall was that pre- jobs tliat ed at but Qiiesne ida, Lou- )ependen- soon be Marquis the mili- regulars, ernnient in hogged in uliiiUWilt'Rt c arrival of in France. militia, and Indians, were despatched to the Ohio ; fort l)u Quesno (actually within the Virginia terri- tory,) and other posts were erected, with a view of keeping the Knglish within the Apalachian or Alle- ghany Mountains ; and from Ticonderago, Crown Point, and Fort Niagara, the most ferocious attacks were made on the peaceable English settlers,* not- withstanding the treaty of Aix-La-Chapelle in 1748. The British, though still acting on the defensive, were not idle ; a fort was built in the vicinity of Du Quesne, (juaintly termed Necessity, and a garrison was despatched from \Mrginia, under the command of George Washington, whose name has since be- come so illustrious, and who then held a Lieut. - Colonel's commission. Washington on his march to assume the command of Fort Necessity, was met by a reconnoitring party from Du Quesne fort, under M. de Jumon\ille, who peremptorily forbad the English to proceed further, 'i'he mandate was an- swered by a l)urst of indignation, and a volley of musquetry, which killed Jumonville and several of hi.* men. The French commandant at Du Quesne, Monsieur ( ontrecipur, quickly commenced oftensive hostilities ; invested Necessity, and obliged Washing- * It was at this period that the remarkable convention of the British colonists i then vulnerable, owing to their separate local governments) was held at Albany in July, 1754, when IJenjamin Franklin produced a plan for the union uf the States, establish- ing a (piota, and levying men and money, throughout the dif- ferent Colonies to resist the French ; indeed, though not then acted on, this document was the basis of the federal union sub- sequently formed for the overthrow of the British dominion. 'i i W^M«MH*««t*tl« ■i w p m i n ^i " n I I **«. i a i '■i J, f, V 30 THE CANADAS. ton to capitulate. England at that time wa>« preparing for an open war with France, which the ambition of Frederick of Prussia and tlie state of Europe soon rendered general. A strong fleet, with troops and warlike munition, was despatched to reinforce Que- bec j an English fleet pursued it, but succeeded in capturing only two frigates, with the engineers and troops on board, on the banks of Newfoundland. In 1755, the Marquis Du Quesne having resigned, he was succeeded, in July, by the last French go- vernor in Canada, the Marquis de Vaudreuil de Cavjignal whose administration was auspiciously opened by the defeat of the brave but rash General Braddock, on the 9th July, 1755, in one of the defiles of the Alleghany Mountains. Braddock, ac- customed to European, rather than to Indian war- fare, neglected every precaution of scouts and ad- vance posts ; and refused to make any preparations against the French and their Indian allies, who, when the enemy had entered a gorge, where retreat was almost impossible, poured from their ambuscades on the devoted British a deadly fire, under which the soldiers of the unfortunate Braddock fell raoidly, without even the satisfaction of seeing or meeting their foes. The death of their leader was the signal that further advance was hopeless ; and, to the credit of George Washington, the second in command, he succeeded in rescuing the remainder of the British army, who were afterwards joined by 6,000 provin- cial troops, under General Johnston and Governor Shirley. Johnston, with the intention of investing Crown Point, joined General Lyman near Lake feu preparing mbition of irope soon Toops and force Que- cceeded in rineers and mdland. g resigned, French go- ludreuil de .uspiciously ish General one of the addock, ac- Indian war- iits and ad- jreparationb , who, when retreat was ambuscades mder which fell rapidly, or meeting ,s the signal to the credit )mmand, he the British 000 provin- id Governor of investing near Lake -M HI&TOBY. George, where they were attacked by 3,000 French, icf-mnuindcd by the l^aron Deiskau. After a battle of four hours' duration, the French retreated to Ciown Point, with a lo-ss of 1,(XK) men, and the cap- ture of their leader, who was severely wounded. This success restored the drooping spirits of the British army, and helped to train the provincitds, (who were brigaded idong with the regular troops) for those contests which they were soon to wage for their independence with the very men by whose side they now fought hand to hand against the French — their subsetjueiit allies. Little did Wash- ington then contemplate the destiny that awaited him. The canxpaign of 1755 was closed in October by the British retiring to Albany, after reinforcing the garrison of Oswego, but without any attack on Crown Point. France, fully aware of the impor- tance of Canada, sent out early in the ensuing year a largt^ body of chosen troops urxcited a^ainsJ those wiio permitted or sanc- tioned such a dial)olital act. The elder Pitt (ai'tcr- wards Earl of Chiitliam), tlien at the head of affairs, and in the full blaze of his elu(|uence, infused a line spirit into His Majesty's counsels, and so wielded the resoun cs and energies of the nation, that the effects were speedily felt in America. France reinforced lier Canadian garrisons : and fingliuid opened the cam])aign of 17r>9 with a plan of combined operations by sea and land, somewhat, if not mainly, formed on the plan adopted in KJDO, and already detailed. 'J'he invasion of Canada was to take place at three dift-erent points under three generals of high talent ; that destined for Quebec being considered the chief. The forces for the latter place were under the command of the heroic (Jeneral AV^olfe, and amounted to about 8,(K)0 men, chietly drawn from the army which, under the same com- mander, had taken Fort Louisburg in Cape Breton, and subdued the whole island in the preceding year Wolfe's army was conveyed to the vicinity of Que- bec by a ileet of vessels of \var and transports, com- manded by Admiral Saunders,* and was landed in two divisions on the island of Orleans, !27th June, 1759. The Marquis de Montcalm made vigorous prepara* I; * The naval forces for the service of N. America consisted of 20 sail of the line, 2 ships of 50 guns, 12 frigates, and U smaller vessels. .«, m l II ,iii>»ii I • "■"■J ■•^• HI STORY. 33 rrisoiis : and with a plan i, somewhat, jted in KiDO, Canada was under three 1 for Que])ec for the hitter eroic Cicneral men, chietiy e same c(»in- Cape Breton, ;cedint^ year inity of Que- sports, com- anded in two June, 17-'>9. ous prepara* nerica consisted rigates, and 14 tions for defending Quebec — his armed force con- sisted of about 13,0(X) men, of whom six battalions were regulars, and the remainder well discipUn^-d Canadian militia, with some cavalry and Indians ; and his army was ranged from the river St. Law- rence to the falls of Montmorenci, with the view of opposing the landing of the British forces. A few ships of war, including fire-ships, assisted I)e Mont- icalm. The skilful disposition of the French com- mnder was shewn in the failure of the British at- ick on the intrenchments at Montmorenci, where the British lost 182 killed and 450 wounded, includ- ing 1 1 officers killed and 46 wounded. In consequence )f this repulse, Wolfe sent despatches to England Itating that he had doubts of being able to reduce Quebec during that campaign. Prudence and foresight are the characteristics of , good general as well as of an able statesman — Wolfe K-f called a council of war — he shewed that the Hre of his ships of war had done little damage to the cita- del, though the lower town had been nearly destroyed — tlyit further attacks on the Montmorenci entrench- ments were useless ; it was therefore proposed, as ttie only hope of success, to gain the heights of Abraham behii d and above the city, commanding the Weakest point of the fortress,* The council, com- posed of the prmcipal naval and military command- |B"8, acceded to this daring proposal ; and their heroic leader commenced his operations on the memorable inorning of the 13th September, 1759, with an ad- -■«- * The honour of this suggestion is claimed by General 'ovvnshend's family for their distinguished ancestor. VOL. I. u ! • ,, . . ti ' j iM m** ; ■ ' ■> '' " O I ' * >tV -"»«rfv- 1**^*.?^ t •ift'-^'^. '^y - vf 34 TIIK CAXADAS. dress, sccrosy and silence that have perhaps never been equalled ;* J)e Montcalm found all his vig;ilance un- availing to fjuard this important pass — he lost his usual pnidence and t'orbciirance, aud fiiuling his oj»- ponent had gained so much by ha/arding* all, he, with an infatuation for which it is impossible to ac- count, resolved t(» meet the British in battle array on the plains of Abraham. The French sallied forth from a strong fortress without field artillery — witli- out even waiiing for the return of a large force of '2,000 men detached as a corps of observation under dj Bougainville — and with a heat and precipitati'H) Hs remarkable as were the coolness and preci- sion of the British. The eagle eye of Wolfe saw thirt to him retreat was almost impossible j but, while directing his main attention to the steady ad- vance of his right division, he skilfully covered his Hanks, and endeavoured to preserve their communi- cation with the shore. Both armies may be said to have been without artillery, the French having only two gur.s, and the FiUglish a light cannon, which tlie sailors dragged up the heights with ropes ; the slbre and the bayonet accordingly decided the day, and never was the nervous strength of tlie British arm better wielded. t The agile Scotch Highlanders, with their stout claymores, served the purposes of cavalry, and * So difficult was the ascent that the soldiers had to clin.b the precipice by the aid of the branches of shrubs, and root"; of trees growing among the rocks. t The British regiments employed were the 15th, 22nd, 2Sth, 35th, 40th, 43rd, 45th, 47th, 48th, 58th, fiOth, (2nd and 3rd battalions), and 78th, and a corps of rangers. I I' lever been ;ilanee iin- le l(»st his \^ his o]»- ig »ill, he, iblo to ac- Ic array on Hied forth t;rv — witli- [^e foree of ition uiuler reeipitation and preci- WoUe saw sible ; but, ' steady ad- covered his comniuni • be said to laving only whieh the the bf.bre , and never arm better with their avalry, and lad t(t cliiiib )s, and roots 1, 22nd, 2Rth, (2nd and 3rd IIIHTOKY. a.-i the steady fire of the Enjj^lish fusileers compensated in Home decree for the want of arfiUery. The Irenrli foiJt!;ht with a de'^perati(»n heightened by the fanatitism to whieh their priests had exeited them against tlie English h«'retics, while the hert»isin of \)e Montcalm was as <> } the garrison of Quebec capitulated on the 18th of that month, and by the treaty between France and England in 17<>'i, the former resigned all further pretensions to Canada and Nova Scotia, thus losing at one blow every acrfi of her North American dominions. The population of Canada, on its cc^quest by the * The loss on our side was in killed — 1 general, i captain, 6 lieutenants, I ensign, .3 serjearits, and 45 ranic and file ; tn wouniU'd — 1 brigadier-general, 4 st iff officers, 12 captains, 2(> lieutenants, 10 engineers, 2r) serjeants, 4 drummers, and 506 rank and file. The Fr»Mich loss was about 1,500. t A battle took place in the vicinity of Quebec 28th April, 1760, between General Murray, who had been left with a gar risen of 5,000 men, and who quitted his fortress with 3,000 troops to give battle to the Chevalier De Levi, who had collected an army of regulars and militia amounting to 12,000 men ; the battle was furiously fotight for two hours, but overpowered I'.y numbers tin- English were compelled to re turn to Quebec, with the loss of 1,000 men and all their field artillery. The French, however, lost 2,500 men. De Levi besieged Quebec, but the arrival of a small squadron with troops relieved the sieae, and compelled the precipitate retreat of De Levi. Montreal capitulated to General Amherst c»n the 8th Sept. 1760. i- m: UINTORY. 37 erished — d not live both the deploring /e decided the com- DFCCh took (; garrison nonth,and d in 17«'i, to Canada every acrfi jest by the al, I captain, and file ; tn captains, 26 ers, and 506 c 28th April, t with a gar with 3,000 VI, who had iig to 12,000 ) hours, but )cUed to rt all their field \. De Levi uadron with )itate retreat Amherst on British, was about 65,0(X), inhabiting a narrow strip of hind on the banks i»f the St. Lawrence, and chiefly employed in agriculture j no people ever had juster cause of gratitude for the cession of the country to (ireat Britain than the Canadians. Bigot, the in- tendant, or king's financier, and his creatures, plun- dered the colonists in every direction ; a paper cur- rency termed card-money, founded on the responsi- bility of the King of France, f(»r the general support of the civil and military establisiiments of the colony, and which, from having been faithfully redeemed during a period of thirty years, enjoyed unlimited credit, enabled Bigot to conceal for a long time his wast»* and peculations ; and while the British were capturing Canada by force of arms, the French monarch was destroying the commerce and pros- pects of his subjects by dishonouring the bills of exchange of the intendant, to whom he had granted absolute power ; thus involving in ruin not only the holders of l<2,(K)(),(XK> livres (.€5(H),0(X) sterling), but also those who possessed any paper currency, which at the conquest amounted to ^,(KX),(X)0 ster- ling, the only compensation received for which, was four per cent, on the original value. Civil and religious liberty wa.« granted to the Canadians -, and in the words of the writer of the Political Annals of Canada, * previous history af- fords no example of such forbearance and genero- sity on the part of the <;onquerors towards the con- quered, — forming such a new era in civiUzed war- fare that an admiring world admitted the claim of Great Britain to the glory of conquering a people, I I i Ml til 1:1 < ' '■fcii irMifH i ' I f niii II I ■ .tw i. , fci.a ^ -> dn ,. ^ ,i^AA^ t . ^^^ .>^^ — p y ■ ^. ^ j|-^-|^,.Y^,^g ^j^ijgjjjy--. jj^^ r,) - 89 THE CANADA?. "1 less from views of ambition and the security of her other colonies, than from the hope of improving their situation and endowing them with the privileges of freemen. " Although the Engli^^h hud obtained possession of Canada from the French, they were soon obliged to contend for its preservation with those who had assisted them to capture it — I allude to the British colonists who had now, (177i>) cast off their alle- giance to the mother country, rather than submit to be taxed* without being represented in the Imperial Senate. I am forbidden by the nature of my work to de- tail the operations of the war between England and the revolted colonists of New England, 8c c. but the general reader will probably desire to peruse briefly the operations that took place in Canada during this eventful period. 'J'he New Englanders and their fellow-colonists, now separated from Great Britain, and hereafter to be styled Americans, had no sooner established their independence, than they attempted to seize on Ca- nada, which but a few years before tluy had aided Jlngland in conquering from the French. About the close of the summer of 1775, the American forces invaded Canada by Lake Champlain, and from the sources of the Kennebec river. The first divisioii of the American army, under the command of Briga- dier-General Montgomery, was remarkably success- * The money which it was endeavoured to levy was to assist in defraying the great expense incurred in the captur* 'i* Canada. — What a strange concatenation of events ■ If" IIISTORV, -1^ irity of her improving ; privileges >ssession of obligevl to ; who hfid the British their alle- 1 submit to he Imperial t'ork to de- m England ,nd, &c. but ; to peruse in Canada colonists, hereafter to ished their ize on Ca- had aided About th( ican forces from the division of d of Briga- )ly succese;- was to assist captun; "* s! ful ; Montreal, Chambly, St. John's, Longueuil, and other posts of importance at that time, fell into their hands, and all the military stores and provisions at Montreal and on the rivers were captured by the Americans. The second division of the American army under Colonel Arnold, traversing with dreadful fatigue the forests and .^w.'.rnps in the district of Maine, arrived at Sutagan on the Ith November, and on the 8th reached Point Levi, opposite Quebec, on the south shore of the St, Lawrence. Quebec was at this mo- ment almost defenceless, and had General Arnold been able to cross the river, the capital and with it the territory of the Canad.'is must have passed into the hands of the Americans. Cieneral Carleton, the liritish (iovernor, was atthi.«? time occupied with his iroop< near Montreal, in endeavouring to repulse the att;u ks of (ie: Tal Montgomery, who had made him- self master of that city, and was also endeavouring to effect a junction with the second division of the army under Arnold. 'I'he British General percei\ ing that the safety of the province depended on the possession of Quebec, elToctcd a masterly movement, and ar- rived at the citadel on the lyth November without interruption from Arnold's army, which had crossed the St. Lawrence a short distance above Quebec, taken posses-ion of the environs, and finally en- camjjed at Pointe Aux Trembles, "21 miles from Quebec, awaiting the arrival of Montgomery from M(jutreal before he attacked the fortress. Gtneral Carleton's arrival in Quebec was hailed with great joy ; the Canadians v ied with the oldest ••? u 'I! ! ^J^ f^i^J^Ji^^JfU. , ' .jptM iyi i if H B m. '» i] rfji ii m f^' h '* X: • I 1' I i- 40 THE CAXADAS. British soldiers in preparations for defence ; and his little garrison of 1,800 men (of whom only 350 were regulars, 450 seamen, and the remainder a gallant band of Canadian militia and armed arti- ficers), awaited with calm contidcnce the attack of the combined American foii.es. The siege, or rather blockade, continued throughout the month of De- cember. Montgomery then called a council of war, and it was resolved to attempt to carry Quebec by assault, during the night of the .Slst December. The besiegers approached the citadel with the most careful silence, aided by the raging of a furious snow storm ; as they approached Prescot gate by the road, which winds round the face of the rock leading from the lower to the upper town, the army became crowded into the long narrow pass which led to the gate of the fortress, and the confused noise of the American troops, notwithstand- ing every precaution, rose above the conflict of the elements, and struck the watchful ear of the outer sentinel, who, receiving no answer to his challenge, roused the British guard. General Montgomery* formed his men for the attack, and advanced with vigour to the assault -, — with a quickness and pre- cision deserving of the highest praise, the £nglish * Brig. Gen. R. Montgoinei7 v-as u gentleman of good family in the North of Ireland, and connected by marriage with Viscount Ranelagh. He served under Wolfe us captani in the 1 7th on the heights of Abraham, and on his marriage with the daughter of Judge Livingstone, joined the cause of the colonists, and perished in attacking the fortress which he had aided the British in acquiring. ,' 1 and his mlv 350 ainder a led arti- ittack of or rather 1 of De- il of war, uebec by ber. The he most i furious cot gate :e of the »er town, r narrow i, and the ithstand- t of the the outer :hallenge, gomery* iced with and pre English xl family in h Viscount 7th on the daughter jonists, and aided the HISTORY. *k troops and Canadian militia opened a tremendous fire on the enemy from the artillery which com- manded the path — the groans which succeeded plainly revealed the enemy, and when every sound in answer to their fire had died away, then only did the besieged cease their cannoiiade ; the morning dawned on no enemy, no trace of one was to be seen, for the thickly falling snow had covered the dead bodies of the brave but unfortunate Montgomery, and his daring band, whose bold attempt was thus so terribly checked. After a few other unsuccessful attacks, the American army, although re-inforced with 2,000 fresh troops, raised the siege on the Gth of May, and drew oil" towards tiieir own country. At the time of the invasion there were not more than 9(K) regular troops in the British colony, and the greater jnirt of these surrendered in Forts Chambly and .St. John, or were taken in the craft retiring from Montreal, while there was no militia in existence. Such however were the feelings of the Canadians, on account of the honourable treatment experienced from the English government, after the conquest of the colony from the Trench, that they cheerfully and nobly exerted (hemselves to preserve Canada for England, thus affording another illustra- tion of the wisdom of humane and generous policy. The American force amounted to about 4,000 men ; but Arnold and Montgomery calculated on being joined by the great mass of the Canadian popula- tion, amongst whom partizans and emissaries from New England and New York had been actively dis- seminating circulars from Congress for the purpose ill i 42 TUB CANADAS. of acting on their prejudices. These expedients not oiily failed but recoiled on the heads of their fabri- cators. It was only on the 7th September that the Canadian officers " ' militia received their com- missions J but their a( tivity and zeal made amends for the tardiness with which confidence was reposed i.i them, and of l,5fK) defenders of Quebec, 800 were militia men. \Mien iho Americans evacuated the province, they had about 8,000 men, but the Cana- dian militia and regujtirs presented to them an organised force of 13,0o;), and thus compelled their retreat across the frontier. From this period (1*7^), to 1812, Canada re- mained free from foreign aggression, and rapidly rose in population and prosperity.* In 1812, how- ever, the Americans, thinking the period propitious for capturing Canada (a favourite scheme not yet abandoned) by reason of the sway which the in- veterate enemv of Eni>:land exercised throuiihoui Europe, resolved to declare war against England, and invade Canada, where it was supposed the mass of the people would be disposed to receive the Ameri- cans with open arms. On the •24th June, it was known at Quebec that war was declared between England and America ^ and the Canadians rose with a noble spirit, in defence of England and of their country. They might have availed themselves of the distracted state of Great Britain — they niight have joined, on their own * The division of Canada into provinces upper and lower, took place in 1791, but the general history of both is thus given connectedly. '»'i(« ients not jir fabri- ber that leir com- i amends 5 reposed 800 were lated the he Cana- them an jlled their iinada re- id rapidly ^12, how- propitious e not yet h the in- iroughoui and, and mass of le Aineri- icbec that sricaj and efence of ght have of Great leir own and lower, oth is thus HISTORV. 4S terms, the United States, and formed a portion of the Congress, — but no, although smarting under the in- dignities heaped on them, their efforts were those of a generous nature, which forgetting the injuries, re- membered only the benefits received from England. Four battalions of militia were instantly raised, — the Canadian X'oltigeurs (a fine corps especially suited to the country) were organized and c(iuipped in the short space of six weeks, by the liberality of the younger part of the Canadian gentry, from among wliom they were gallantly ofiicered ; and a spirit of military entliiisiasm was infused into the whole popu- lation, as well as an example set to the settlers in 1 'pj)er Canada, highly important at a crisis, when the regular troops of England were drained "rom the colonics for the purpose of combating with Na- poleon. Sir Cicorge Prevost, the new (iovernor, sum- moned the Canadian Parliament, aj)[)ealed to its ho- nourable spirit, to the attachment of the people to the religion of their forefathers, and their ardent love for the true interests of their country. The Cana- dians responded to the apjical, and were expressly thanked by His Royal Highness the Prince Regent for their support and attachment— His Royal fJigh- ness dechiring, that ' relying with confidetice on the courage and loyalty of His Majestj's Canadian sub- jeets, he was ecjually fearless of the result of any attack upon them, or of any insidious attempt to alienate their affections from the mother country.' On the breaking out of the war, UpjKjr Canada was partly peopled by emigrants from the United ^'4 ■ « m ti^ I ^^^^mtaumumMm 44 THE CANADAS. i'. I i I 1 States, who might he supposed unwilling to shed the hlood of their kindred ; the people of Lower Canada had but recently been represented by autho- rity as seditious, or so easily turned away from their tdlegiance as to endanger the government. There were but about 4,(K)0 British troops in both pro- vinces, scattered along a frontier of 1 ,'UH) miles ; and the St. Lawrence, an immense military highway, open to /the United States, and leading into the heart of Canada, was undefended, thus endangering the safety of the British forces stationed on its bor- ders. With the view of keeping up the price of bills of exchange, of which the military govern- ment was the chief vender, the specie of the country had been suffered to be carried into the United States. Since the war of IT?;") there had existed in the Canadas a militia merely in name, serving chiefly to drain, annually, a fev thousand dollars from the public coffers. Accordingly, on the arrival of the news of the declaration of war at Montreal and Quebec, the tirst thought of many individuals in those cities was that of packing up. The governor, Sir George Prevost, and the people at large, thought differently. It was determined to defend both pro- vinces ; the Legislature was assembled ; and go- vernment paper, bearing interest, and payable in bills of exchange on England, was substituted for specie. The arrival of two battalions, for the purpose of relieving two others under orders for their departure, added to the regular force. At the instance of the government, a law had passed during the preceding 1 ;♦ I I HISTORY. 45 winter, for drafting the militia for actual service, and four weak battalions had been assembled before the war. Every description of force was now put in activity ; the citadel of Quebec was guarded by the inhabitants of the town, proud of the duty and of tie confidence of the government, and j)ropagating the same feel- ings throughout the country. In a month after the declaration of war, the lower province seemed prepared to become the assailant. The Americans had collected, in the summer of ISl 1, their principal regular force on their north-western frontier against the Indians, whom they attacked. This force, joined by militia and volunteers, had set out on its march for Upper Canada, long before the declaration of war. It made roads through immense forests, de- pending on these roads for its communications and supplies, and arrived at Detroit, on the 5th July, about 2,50() strong. The British force on the fron- tier was nearly nominal. On the Vlth July, the enemy passed over into Upper Canada, and issued a proclamation to the apparently defenceless inhabi- tants, inviting them to join his standard, or at least to remain inactive, assuring them of the protection of the United States. After some trilling skirmishes with the handful of British troops stationed at Amherstburg, and upon hearing of the surrender of Michilimacinack, on the 17th of July, to a few sol- diers, voyageurs, and Indians, he became alarmed ft)r his own safety, and returned to Detroit on the 7th of AugUht. Sir George Prevost had entrusted the government and command of Upper Canada to General Brock, a straight-forward politician, and « 4 ■■-«■-■ . :':3i ■■'Jf i! . I •( r • 1 .46 TU£ CANADA8. able, active, and spirited soldier, who infiised an ex- cellent spirit into the loyal inhabitants. The com- mand of Lake Erie still remained with the British. On the 5th August, Brock prorogued the parliament at York ; on the Pith, he was at Amherstburg ; and on the IGth, the American General, Hull, and his whole army, surrendered to a force of 330 regulars, 400 militia, and 600 Indians. People were utterly amazed when they saw so considerable a part of the American forces marched captive into Montreal and Quebec, within two months after the commencement of hostilities. Two months after the surrender of Hull, the enemy had collected a large force on the Niagara frontier. On the 13th of October, this force Ciossed over into Upper Canada, sit Queenston, over- powering the small detachment stationed tliere. Brock was stationed at Fort George. Such was his ardour that he hastened to the spot before his army. He put himself at the head of a small party, which was still resisting the enemy, and the country- was, by his fall, too early deprived of his talents and his services. The enemy obtained possession of the heights, but was soon dislodged, and in great part made prisoners by General Sheaffe, on whom the command had devolved. A temporary truce ensued in this quarter, till it was interrupted by a ridiculous gasconade and impudent attempt at in- vasion, on the 20th and 28th of November, near Fort Erie, by the American General Smith. Another equally absurd attempt was made, about the same time, by the British naval force on Lake Ontario, against Sacket's Harbour. The rest of the winter HI8T0KY 4: passed away ■without any military event, except the capture, on the '^llud January, by (ieneral Proctor, after a smart action, of 4J> prisoners, amongst whom was the American (ieneral Winchester, on the Detroit frontier ; and an attack on Ogdensburg, which, in reality, meant nothing, unless it had been a prelude to an attack on Sacket's Harbour. From the tim of the surrender of Hull, the Americans, however much they blamed that officer, seem to have been fully aware of the true cause of his disaster ; they, therefore, strained every nerve to i^^vuin the mastery of the lakes. The ice no sooner disappeared on Lake Ontario, than they were out with a superior naval force from Sacket's Harbour. On the 27th April, they landed and took posses- sion of York, the capital of Upper Canada, destroyed the })uhlic buildings, wreaked their vengeance on a printing-press, and destroyed the frame of a ship, building for the British service, on the Lake j Ge- neral Sheaffe retiring, after some resistance, towards Kingston. The enemy's fleet proceeded to Niagara, where it landed troops, and then returned to Sacket's Harbour, from whence it conveyed additional forces to the same quarter. On the 28th May, General Vincent was driven from the position of Fort George, and the place was captured ; the British re- tiring along the Lake, towards JJurlington Bay, leaving the whole Niagara frontier, containing a very large proportion of the whole population of Upper Canada, in the power of the enemy. General Proctor had at this time returned from the rapids of I I 1 m m 49 THE CANADAS. t ; i • ) : 1^ \ 1 ^' 1 1 :> ■ ; ; i i i I ^ ■( ' ' 1 ' ^' •' ; \l ii! *.-;'t;. < 1 the Miami, where he had captured 467 American sol- diers, and killed or wounded as many more ; but the enemy was still collecting, and Proctor's communica* tions were threatened. From Fort Geort^e, the Ameri- can army proceeded in pursuit of General Vincent, de- pending on the Lake for its supplies, and determined to tfike possession of BurHngton heights, which would have left no common communication for General Proctor. General Vincent was at Burling- ton heights. The enemy had advanced to Stoney Creek, relying on his superiority and his distance from the British. Lieut. Col. Harvey, Dep. Adjt. Gen., conceived and chiefly executed the plan of surprising the enemy in the night. Before day on the 6th June, he entered the enemy's camp, con- sisting of about 3,000 men, with 704 bayonets, killing and wounding a great number of the enemy, and retired, carrying off 2 generals and 120 pri- soners. This affair so effectually disconcerted the Americans, that they returned hastily to Fort George, opening to the British the communication with part of the Niagara frontier, and, in fact, saving for the time the whole upper part of the province. The surrender of 341 of the enemy, under Boerstler, to the Indians and a few British soldiers, confined the enemy to Fort George. W^hile the American troops and thei r naval force were absent at the head of the Lake, ;m attempt was made on Sacket's Harbour. Col. Baynes, Adjt. Gen., had nominally the command, but Sir George Prevost, the Com- mander-in-Chief, was present j and when the Ame- HISTORY. ^ ricans were retreatinjr, as was said, the latter called off the troops after they had reaihed the defences of the place, and had sustained considerable loss. This affair, by the opportunity which it afforded to Sir George's political enemies to lessen the estimation in which he was held, and by the misunderstanding, of which it laid the foundation, between him and the naval service, proved very unfortunate to the British interest in the Canadas during the remainder of the war. The campaign continued for some time without anv event of much moment. On the 3rd of June, two American armed vessels, car'*ying 22 guns, were gallantly captured by the British troops, at Isle aux Noix, under the command of Lieut. Col. George Taylor, Major 105th Regt., after a well- contested action of three hours, which almost annihi- lated the enemy's naval power on Lake Champlain. On the ' Ith July, there was an attack on Black Rock ; .ind on the 30th of that month, Colonel Murray destroyed the American barracks at Platts- burg. On the 10th of September, Commodore Perry, with a naval force, long blockaded at Erie, captured the whole of the British force on Lake Erie. General Proctor could no longer be supplied on the Detroit frontier : bis only communication was by land, several hundred miles through forests. His situation had now become that of Hull, at Detrr)it ; he had one advantage, however, which Hull had not — the friendship of the Indians. He unaccountably delayed his retreat for a fortnight after the loss of his fleet, and till thfe near approach of a superior force of th^ enpmy. On the 5th of VOL. I. s !i #. I ^ lit ri I m i i I I -.«.!*; — /ae^stvo, V P- i i I > ! I M) TIIK CANADAH. October, ho w:ih only tlini' diiyH' march (r>(; miles) from Detroit, pursuinj; his rotrciit ah»n^ the 'I'rinchr. His force consisted of less than l.(KM> Jiritish ami militia, and ahout l/2«)<) Indians -, the Americans were u|>wards of M, men, apparently with the in- tention of ])enetrating to the St. Lawrence, by the River Chateauguay. On the ^2nth, he came upon Colonel l)e Salaberry's position on that river, about .'JO miles from the frontier. This officer, a native of Canada, belonging to one of its old and most distinguished families, had served with the British army in various parts of the world. To great activity and personal intrepidity, he united military science and exy^erience, and possessed the entire confi- dence of his little force, forming the advance of the army, consisting of about 3C)0 men, almost entirely natives of Lower Canada, and composed of fenci- bles, voltigeurs, militia, and Indians. The enemy, M ' ? n i- 1 1 I ii r *t THE CANADAS. consisting chiefly of new levies, seemed to think that the bsittle was to be won by field manoeuvres, and platoon-firing. Colonel De Salaberry took advantage of all the protection for his men, that time and the facilities afforded by a woody country permit, and poured in a deadly fire, every man making sure of his object j the Colonel setting the example. The enemy's loss was considerable, but has never been correctlv ascertained : that of Colonel De Salaberry's force was, 2 killed and 16 wounded. Hampton retired to the frontier, and thence to Plattsburg, where he remained in a state of inactivity, his army dwindling away by sickness and desertion. General Wilkinson, with his army, left Grenadier Island on the 5th November, in boats and other crafts. It consisted of between 8,00(> and 9,000 men, completely equipped and provided. He passed the British fort, at Prescott, on the night of the 6th. It was a beautiful moonlight : he might have been, the next evening, at the Island of Mon- treal as soon as General Prevost could receive the account of his approach. The militia called to oppose Hampton, had just been sent to their homes. Wilkinson, however, landed part of h' troops to pass Prescott ; he again landed the gn test part of them on the British side, above the Long Sault, in quest of obstacles which did not exist. These de- lays gave time to detachments from the garrisons of Kingston and Prescott to overtake him, and to Sir George Prevost again to call out the militia, about •20,000 of whom were assembling from various parts of the country. On the 11th of November, ».4#/-' t;i. i i fnj I n j i i iii»< W i«in i-i-T-"-'"- ' HISTORY. 53 the American General Boyd, with about 2,000 men, the ^lite of the American army, marched against Colonel Morrison, who commanded the British forces from Kingston and Prescott, amounting to 800 men, which hung on Boyd's rear. The Americans were beaten, and retired to their boats ; and after em- barking a force of 2,500 men, under General Brown, whicli had proceeded to Cornwall, opposed only by the inhabitants of the country, the whole army crossed to Salmon River, and took up a position at the French mills ; from whicli, after destroying their boats, they ultimately proceeded to Plattsburg, on Lake Champlain, sending 2,(XX> men to Sacket's Flarbour. The American forces having been chiefly withdrawn from the Niagara frontier, the British in that quarter prepared to act on the offensive. On the 12th Decembt-T, the enemy evacuated Fort George, and burnt the town of Newark, leaving the inhabitants ruined and houseless, in the midst of winter, to all of whom they had promised protection, many of them being friendly to the Americans. On the 19th, Colonel Murray took Fort Niagara by surprise. On the 30th, General lliall retaliated on the enemy, by destroying Black Rock and Buffalo. Although many projects of hostilities were enter- tained on both sides, during the remainder of the winter, nothing was done of any importance till the iJOth of March, when Wilkinson, at the head of upwards of 8,0(X) men, entered Lower Canada, on the western shore of Lake Champlain, and attacked, unsuccessfully. La Colle Mill, defended by Major Handcock, of the 13th regiment, and about 180 i ^ lf|, { i i r ) i i i t: m THE CAXADA3. men. The General then retired unmoL sted to the United States, and closed his military career. The failure of the enemy's attempts against Lower Ca- nada, and the course of events in Europe, began to give a new character to the war. Instead of having for its object the wresting of Canada from Great Britain, it became, '(n the part of the United States, a war more of a defensive nature, or, at least, the offensive measures vvere confined to a part of the Upper Province. Although the British naval force on Lake On- tario had ventured out of port during the preceding campaign, all the advantages of naval superiority were on the side of the Americans.* Early in the season of 1814, Sir James Yeo, who, with naval officers, seamen, and shipwrights, had arrived from England early in 1818, laid claim to the command of the Lake. Sir Gordon Drummond, with troops from Kingston, accordingly embarked in the fleet, and captured Oswego, on the 6th of May. The American fleet, however, soon seemed to have re- gained its former superiority. The American array assembled on the Niagara frontier, under the com- mand of General Brown, well known in Lower Canada, before the war, as a plain farmer and dealer in lumber and potash, and who commanded at Sacket's Harbour, when attacked by Sir George Prevost. On the 3rd July, this officer, at the head of * The Americans ran their ships up in a few weeks, and had ail their sunplies on the spot ; we built our ships as slowly and rfgularly as if they were intended for the ocean, and had to send the greater part of the material from England. |i HISTORY. 55 between 3,000 and 4,000 men, crossed over into Up- per Caniuln, at Black Rock, and obtained possession of Fort Erie by capitulation. On the 5 th, he was met by General Riall, with about 2,000 regulars, militia, and Indians, at Chippawa. The British loss, in killed, wounded, and missing, was 515 ; thai of the Americans, 3SJ2. On the 18th, General HifJl fell back on Fort George } and on the Dth, to the Twenty-mile Creek, where he received reinforce- ments. The enemy proceeded to invest Fort George, and committed indiscriminate plunder on the inha- bitants of the frontier. The thriving village of St. David's was entirely destroyed. On the 23rd, Ge- neral JJrown fell back to Queenston, and General Riall advanced. On the 25th, in the afternoon, the two armies again met, near the Falls, General Riall, after sustaining a severe loss, ordered a re- treat, (ieneral Drummond, who arrived at Fort George that morning from York, with reinforce- ments, ordered an advance. The field wjis gallantly contested till midnight, when the enemy retired to his camp, and thence towards Fort Erie. The American force in this action was about 4,(.XX> ; that of the British, us stated by General Drummond, 2,800. The total loss of the latter was 878 ; of the Americans, 854. The British army arrived before Fort Erie on the 3rd of August, and invested the place. On the 11th, the American armed schooners Ohio and Somers, aiding in the defence of the phice, were carried by 7b British seamen, under Captain Dobbs, in boats, some of ^Y''--" ' i^v^^-y^sT^" r^ ?T-f '^••^'' v^'**'' " T- *?- - ' U; S6 THE CANADA8. ^1 V ^1 ' i k i ' f .:' C 1 1 >< which had been carried on men's shoulders from Queenston. On the night of the 15th, the British assaulted the fort, and were repulsed with heavy loss } the gallant and amiable Colonel Scott, of the 103rd, and the intrepid Colonel Drummond, of the 104th, being among the killed. The total loss was 905 ; that of the enemy only 84. After this unfortunate affair. General Drummond converted the siege into a blockade. On the 26th of June, transports ar- rived at Quebec from Bordeaux with the 6th and 8?nd regiments. They were ordered to the Nia- gara frontier, where they arrived late in August, having had to march round Lake Ontario. The principal part of the remainder of the troops which arrived from France, were assembled on the Riche- lieu River, where they were brigaded with the forces already in that quarter, under (Jeneral de Rotten- burg, for the purpose of carrying into effect instruc- tions from England for offensive operations against the United States, (ireat exertions had for some time previous been making on both sides, to ensure a superiority on Lake Champlain. On the 3rd of September, the British army, amounting to 1 1 ,(KX> men, under Sir George Prevost, passed the frontier by Odell Town, and reached Plattsburg on the 6th, with trifling opposition, where the American General Macomb occupied a fortified position with 1,500 regulars, and as many of the inhabitants, all trained to arms, as could be collected from both sides of the Lake. From the 6th to the 1 1th, battering H HISTORY. 57 ;rs from -■y ■ viu issaulted iss J the J 103rd, e 104th, as 905 ; ortunate lege into orts ar- Gth and he Nia- August, 3. The )s which 3 Riche- \e forces Rotten- instruc- a^ainst )r some > ensure 3rd of 1 1 ,(X)0 frontier he 6th, ieneral 1,500 trained ides of ttering cannon were brought up from the rear, fmd bat- teries erected by the British. '-On the 11th, the British flotilla from Isle aux Noix came up and attacked the American navid force in the bay ; the land batteries opened at the same time, and the troops moved to the assault. When they had reached the heights on which the American works were situated, victory declared itself in fuvcmr of the American naval force. Sir (ieorge Prevost countermanded the orders for the attiick ; the next morning the whole army retreated, and on the i3th re-entered the province, with a total loss of '235 men, exclusive of deserters, which on this, as on every occasion when the British soldiers entered the enemy's country, was consider- able. On the 17th September, the American forces made a sortie from Fort Erie, which was repulsed, but with severe loss. On the 21st, the British broke up, and retired upon Chippawa, Fort (reorge, and Burlington Heights. On the 17 th October, Sir James Yeo appeared on the Lake, and brought reinforcements and supplies to General Drunimond, the American squadron under Chauncey remaining in Sacket's Harbour. On the 5th November, the Americans evacuated Fort Erie, the only military fort which they held in the Caniidas ; a predatory party which proceeded from Detroit, and penetrated more than a hundred miles into Upper Canada, plundering the property, and destroying the dwell- ings of the loyal inhabitants, having also retired on the approach of a British detachment from Bur- II I ! ! I 1 1 1 1 !■: t 1 V ! 58 THE CANADAS. lington Heights. Michilimacinack, which the Ame- rican superiority on Lake Erie and Lake Huron, enabled them to attack, had been gallantly defended by Colonel M'Donall. The enemy burnt the estab- lishment of the North West Company at Sault St. Marie. The Colonel, however, manjiged to send parties of voy{igeurs and Indians to the head of the Mississippi, and captured the post of Prairie du Chien. British naval officers and seamen, sent overland from York, had also captured in open boats two American armed schooners on Lake Huron, and preparations were making to secure the command of that Lake, and even recover that of Lake Erie, with which the former communicates by Detroit. On the '24th December^ 1814, a treaty of peace between the United States and (irtat Bri- tain was signed at Ghent ; on the 1 8th February, 1815, it was ratified and proclaimed at Washington, and on the 9th of March made known at Quebec by Sir George Prevost. Neither the close of the war, nor the treaty, was considered in Canada as befitting the character of Great Britain, a nation which had so recently acted the principal part in reducing the most formidable power that had been known in modern Europe. Men who had beaten the most celebrated troops in the world, in a series of battles from Gibraltar to Bordeaux, were re- strained from acting against an inferior force at Plattsburg, and defeated and destroyed in an attack on mud breast works at New Orleans, defended by peasantry and raw levies. The whole conduct of the war on the part of (rreat Britain was considered UISTOR"^.' 59 he Ame- Huron, defended le estab- ilault St. to send head of f Prairie len, sent in open n Lake !cure the r that of lunicates a treaty ■tat Bri- ebruary, hington, Quebec of the nada as nation part in id been beaten a series ere re- orce at attack ded bv uct of sidered ^11 as extraordinary. When Canada was to be defended, there was a deficiency of the force in which England abounded, ships and seamen, jeopardizing the whole country, notwithstanding the zeal and loyalty of the people, the many instances of distinguished military skill, and the general gallantry and persevering en- durance of the army. When Britain was in circum- stances to dispose of a force to act offensively against the United States, only a few thousand soldiers were sent to an open and populous country, where an European army could have operated to advantage ; and a large force was sent against distant frontiers, where a regular force could neither act nor subsist itself, where, in fact, it was inferior to an equal number of n:ilitia-men and sharp-shooters, of which description of troops all the inhabitants of these frontiers consisted. On tiie ocean. Great Britain exposed the bravest of her sons to be butchered, or disgraced, from an unpardonable ignorance of the superiority of the enemy's ships over those which were sent to contend against them ; and to complete the whole, the officer who had been chiefly instru- mental in preserving two of her finest provinces, was disgraced, and only a scanty reparation offered to his memory after he had died broken-hearted. These are lessons for the future, and with that view deserve to be placed on record -, for which reason I have been induced to give the foregoing chronicle of Upper Canada, the further histoiy of either pro- vince being of no especial moment. The following is a list of the Ciovemors of the Lower Province under the French and English government : — Sieur de Mesy, May, 1663. Sieur de Courcelles, 60 *■■': I r: THE CANADAS. 23 Sept. 1665. Sieur de Frontenac, 12 Do. 1672. Sieur de la Barre, 9 Oct. 1682. Sieur Marquis de Nonville, 3 Aug. 1685. Sieur de Frontenac, 28 Nov. 1689. Sieur Chevalier de Callieres, 14 Sept. 1699. Le Sieur Marquis de Vaudreuil, 17 Do. 1703 Le Sienr Marquis de Beauharnois, 2 Do. 1726. Sieur Conte de la Galissoniere, 25 Do. 1747- Sieur de la Jonquiere, 16 Aug. 1749. Sieur Mar- quis du Guesne de Meneville, 7 Do. 1752. Sieur de Vaudreuil de Cavagnal, 10 July, 1755. James Murray, 21 Nov. 1765. Paulus Emilius Irving, (Piesident) 30 June, I766. Guy Carleton, Lt. Gov. &c. Com. in Chief, 24 Sept. 1766. Do. Do. 26 Oct. 1774. Hector J. Cramah^, (President) 9 Aug. 1770. Guy Carleton, 11 Oct. 1774. Frederick Haldimand, 1778. Henry Hamilton, Lt. Gov. and Com. in Chief, 1774. Henry Hope, Lt. Gov. and Com. in Chief, 1775. Lord Dorchester, Gov. General, 1776. Colonel Clarke, Lt.Gov. Com. in Chief, 1791. Lord Dorchester, 24 Sept. 1793. Robert Prescott, 1796. Sir Robert S.Milnes, Bart. Lt. Gov. 31 July, 1799. Hon. Thomas Dunn, (President) 31 Do. 1805. Sir J. H. Craig, K. B. Gov. Gen. 24 Oct. I8O7. Hon. Thomas Dunn, (President) 19 June, 1811. Sir George Prevost, Bart. Gov. Gen. 14 Sept. 1811. Sir G. Drummond, G. C. B. Ad. in Chief, 14 April, 1815. John Wilson, Administrator, 22 May, 1816. Sir J. C. C. Sherbrooke, G. C. B. Gov. Gen. 12 July, 1816. Duke of Richmond, K. C. B. Gov. Gen. 30 Do. 1818. Hon. James, Monk, (President) 20 Sept. 1819. Sir Peregrine Maitland, Do. 1820. Earl of Dalhousie, G. C. B. Gov. (Jen. 18 .June, 1820. Sir Frs. Matt. Burton, K.C. G. Lt. Gov. 7 June, 1821 HISTORY. n Earl of Dalhousie, G. C. B. Gov. Gen. 23 Sept. 1825. Sir James Kerap, G. C. B. 8 Do. 1828. Lord Ayl- mer, July, 18.30. Lord (iosford, July, 1835. /f List of the L'uutenant-Governors, Presidents, and Administrntors of Upper Canada, from the division of the province 1*1)1 to 1831. Colonel John (iraves Simc.oe, Lieutenant-Go- vernor, July 8th, 17923 the Honourable Peter llussel, President, July 21st, 1796' ; Lieutenant - General Peter Hunter, Lieutenant-Governor, August 17th, 1799 j the Honourable A. Grant, President, September 11th, 1805; His Excellemry Francis Gore, Lieutenant-Governor, August 25th, 1806 ; Major-Generd Sir Isaac Brock, President, Sep- tember 30th, 1811 ; Major-General Sir R. H. Sheaffe, Bart., President, October 20th, 1812 ; Major-(ieneral F. Baron de Rottenburg, President, June 19th, 1SI3 ; Lieutenant-General Sir Gordon Drummond, K. C. B., Provincial Lieutenant-Go- vernor, December 13th, 1813; Lieutenant-General Sir George Murray, Bart., Provincial Lieutenant- Governor, April 2 ith, 1815; Major-General Sir F. P. Robinson, K. C. B., Provincial Lieutenant- Governor, July 1st, 1815 : His Excellency Francis Gore, Lieutenant Governor, September 25th, 1815 ; the Honourable Samuel Smith, Administrator, June 1 1th, I8I7 ; Major-General Sir P. Maitland, K.C.B. Lieutenant-Governor, August 13th, 1818; the Ho- nourable Samuel Smith, Administrator, March 8th, 1820; Major General Sir P. Maitland, K. C.B., Lieutenant-Governor, June 30th, 1 820 ; Major-Ge- neral Sir John Colborne, Lieutenant- Gcvcxnai; No- vember 5th, 1828. Ill' THE CAXADAS. r.: CHAl^ER II. GEOGRAPHY, PHYSICAL ASPKCT, MOUNTAINS, LAKKS, ( ATA- RACTH, AND RIVKRS — ISLANDS, CANALS, CHIKF CITIES AND TOWNS, &C. ? ! f In 1791, Canada was, by His Majesty's Order in terms of Council,* divided into two provinces, called the Upper and Lower, each with a distinct govern- ment J and as tlieir physical features are some- * The words of the Order in Council are — ' to commence at a stone boundary on the N. bank, of the lake of St. Francis at the Cove W. of Point au Baudet, in the limit between the township of Lancaster and the seigniory of New Longueuil, running along the said limit in the direction of N. 34 W. to the westernmost angle of the said seigniory of New Longueuil; then along the N. W. boundary of the seniority of Vaudreuil, running TSi.25 E. until it strikes the Ottawa river ; to ascend the said river into the lake Temiscaming, and from the head of the said lake by a line drawn due N. until it strikes the boundary of Hudson's Bay, including all the territory to the westward and southward of the said line to the utmost extent of the country commonly called or known by the name of Canada.' The want of clearness in the above delineation, added to the imperfect- ness of the map on which it was drawn, particularly as regarded the westwardly angle of the seigniory of New Longueuil, and the S. W. angle of Vaudreuil, which are represented as coin- cident, when, according to the intelligent and patriotic Col. Bouchette, they are nine miles distant from each other — has naturally caused disputes as to the boundaries between Upper and Lower Canada. PHYSICAL ASPECT. 6'3 what different, it will be advisable for the sake of perspicuity to examine them separately. Lower ( anada is comprised within tlif parallels of 45*^ and it'-l". ?,'. Lat., and the meridians of 57.50 to 80.f;. W. of (ireenwich ; embraeiny, so far as its boundaries will admit (»f estimation, an area of 2().5,H63 square miles, inrlNdinir n superficies of ."'20O miles, covered by the numerous lakes and rivers of the Province, and erclu,(KH) of acres. The general boundaries of this vast country have been stated in the preceding chapter ; and it will be seen that the great lakes arc divided between (ireat Bri tain and the United States, an arrangement which the French, while in possession of Canada, sedulously avoided conceding to the B^nglish. The natural features of Lower Canada partake of the most romantic sublimities and picturesque beau- ties ; indeed the least imaginative beholder cannot fail to be struck with the alternations and vast ranges of mountains, magnificent rivers, immense lakes, boundless forests, extensive prairies, and foaming cataracts. Beginning with the bold sea coast and ocean-like river 8t Lawrence, it mav be observed that ihe east- em parts are high, mountainous, and co\ered with I ' I il <■■ " <' ■ ■! I j if I — <|^w«^Bl.««e „• AmiWrin**^' N w a ifiin >■ PHYSICAL ASl'KCT. »>/ from the river's bank is slightly elevated into table ridfi^es, with occasional abnii)t acclivities and plains of moderate extent. The islands of Montreal, Jesus and Perrot, si- tuate in the river St. Lawrence, come within this section. MontrejU, the largest of the three, is a lovely isle of a triangular shape, 'i2 miles long by 10 broad, lying at the continence of the Ottawa and St. Lawrence, and separated on the N. \V. from isle Jesus, by the riviere des Prairies. Montreal exhibits a surface nearly level with the exception of a mountain, (Coteau St. Pierre) and one or two hills of slight elevation, from which How nume- rous streams and rivulets. The island is richly cultivated, and tastefully adorned. Isle Jesus, N. W. of Montreal, 21 miles long by 6 broad, is every where level, fertile, and admirably tilled ; off its S. W. end is Lsle Bizard, about four miles in length and nearly oval, well cleared and tenanted. Isle Perrot lies off the S. W. end of Montreal, seven miles long by three broad ; level, .sandy and not well cleared ; the small islets de la Paix are annexed to the seigniory of Isle Perrot, i»nd serve for pasturages. Before proceeding to describe the physical aspect of the S. side of the St. Lawrence, it may be proper to observe that but little is known of the interior of the portion of the province bounded by tlie Ottawa or (irand River; so far as it has been explored, it is not distinguished by the boldness which charac- terizes the E. section of Lower Canada ; now and then small ridges and extensive plains are met with, receding from the bed of the Ottawa, whose margin J I *;> 1^ f If I.. THE CAVADAS. ; ! 1« t; ■ ti is an alluvial flat, flooded often by the spring freshes and autumnal rains, to the extent of a mile from the river's bed. Beyond the first ridge that skirts these flats the country is little known. IV. South side of the St. Lawrence. — Let us now view the province on the S. of the Lawrence, beginning as before at the sea coast — on which the large county and district of Gasp6 is situate. This peninsulated tract, more properly belonging to New Brunswick than to Lower Canada, lies between the parallel of 47.18 to 49.12 N. lat. and 64.12 to 67.53 W. long, bounded on the N. by the river St. Law- rence, on the E. by the (Julf of the same name, on the S. by the Bay ofChaleurs adjoining New Bruns- wick, and on the W. by the lower Canada territory ; having its greatest width from N. to S, about 90 miles, and with a sea coast extending 350 miles from Cape Chat round to the head of Kistigourhe Bay. This large track of territory has been as yet but very imperfectly explored ; so far as we know, the face of the country is uneven, with a range of mountains skirting the St. Lawrence to the N., and another at no remote distance from the shores of Ristigouche river and Bay of Chaleurs ; — between these ridges is an elevated and broken valley, occasionally inter- sected by deep ravines. The district is well wooded, and watered by numerous rivers and lakes, the soil rich and yielding abundantly when tilled. The sea beach is low (with the exception of Cape Gasp^i, which is high with perpendicular cliffs) and frequently used as the highway of the territory ; behind it, the land rises into higli round hills, well wooded. The PHYSICAL ASPECT. m thief rivers are the Ristigouche, into which fall the Pscudy, Goummitz,(Juadamgonichone, Mistoue and Metapediac ; the grand and little Nouvelle, grand and little Cascapediac, Cuplin, Bonaventnre, East Nouvelle, and Port Daniel, which discharge them- selves into the Way of Chaleurs ;— grand and little Pabos, grand and little River, and Mai Ray river, flowing into the Gulf of 8t. Lawrence : — the river St John, and N. E. and S. W. branches, fall into (iaspd Ray. There are also many lakes. V. The country comprized between the western boundary of Gasp6 and the E. of the Chaudiere river, has a front along the .St. Lawrence river to the N. W. of 257 miles, and is bounded to the S. E. by the high lands dividing the Rritish from the United States territories. These high lands are 0'2 iTiiles from the St. Lawrence at their nearest point, but on approaching the Chaudiere river, tliey diverge south- wardly. The physical aspect of this territory, em- bracing about 19,000 square miles (of which the United States claim about l0,0O() square miles), is not so mountainous as the opposite bank of the St. Lawrence -, it may more properly be characterized as a hilly region, abounding in extensive vallios. The immediate border of the St. Lawrence is flat, soon however rising into irregular ridges, and at- taining an elevated and extensive tableau • at the distance of 1 5 to 20 miles from the shores of the St. Lawrence, the tableau gently descends towards the River St. John, beyond which it again re -ascends, acquiring a greater degree of altitude towards the 1 1 i : % I •^s. I .? * I i i W '» ' ni fi> THK CANADAS. i sources of the AUegash — finally merging in the Connecticut range of mountains. VI.— The last section of Lower Canada, S. of the St. Lawrence, is that highly valuable tract W. of the river (^haudiere, fronting the 8t. Lawrence, and having in the rear the high lands of Connecticut and the parallel of the 45" of N. lat., which consti- tutes the S. and S. E. boundary of Lower Canada, where the latter is divided from the American vStates of New Hampshire, Vermont and New York. The superficial extent of this tract is 18,8()4 miles, containing I7 counties and a population of 2(K),(K)0. The physical aspect varies, throughout this ex- tensive section ; at the mouth of the Chaudiere the banks of the St. Lawrence still retain the boldness for which they are remarkable at Que- bec and Point Levi, but proceeding westward, they gradually subside to a moderate elevation, till they sink into the flats of Bale du Febre, and form the marshy shores of Lake St. Peter, whence the country becomes a richly luxuriant plain. Pro- ceeding from Lake St. Peter towards Montreal, the boldness and grandeur of the country about Quebec may be contrasted with the picturesque champagne beauties of Richelieu, Vercheres, Chambly and La Prairie districts. In the former especiaUy, the eye of the spectator is delighted with a succession of rich and fniitful fields, luxuriant meadows, flourish- ing settlements, neat homesteads, gay villages, and even delightful villas, adorning the banks of the Richelieu, the Yamaska and the St. Lawrence, whilst PHYSICAL ASHKCT. 71 in the distance are seen the towering mountains of Rouville and C'hambly, Roug;emont, Mount Johnson and lioucherville, soaring majestically above the common level. As the country recedes from the JSt. Lawrence banks to the E. and S. E., it gradually swells into ridges, becomes progressively more hilly, and finally assumes a mountainous character towards lakes Memphramagog and St. Francis, beyond which it continues to preserve more or less that boldness of aspect, 2 W. long. They were granted to Sir Isaac Coffin as a reward for his naval ser\ iees, and live or six are inhabited by French, Canadians, and English and Irish settlers, altogether numbering 1,00(J, who carry on a profitable tishery. Magdalen isle, the largest, is 17 leagues in length, but very narrow, be- ing in some places not more than a mile wide.* The River St. Lawrence, arising from the great and magnificent basin of Lake Superior (more than 1,50() miles in circumference) in Upper Canada, has a course to the sea of nearly 3,0(10 miles (varying from one to OO miles broad), of which distance, in- cluding the lakes Ontario, Erie and Huron, it is navigable for ships of a large class very nearly 2,000 miles, and the remainder of the distance for barges, batteaux, and vessels drawing little water, of from 10 to 15 and even 60 tons burthen. The re- motest spring of the St. Lawrence, if we consider the Canadian lakes as merely extensive widenings of * North of the Magdalens is Brion's Island, and beyond this are the Bird isles or rocks ; the north of which is in latitude 47.50.28, longitude 61.12.53. On this it is proposed to erect a light-house. t . 1 I ? I 74 TIIK CAN A DAS. I 1* H^ the river, is the stream culled St. Lewis in hit. 48.30 N., long, about 93 W. From its source, the general direction through lakes Superior and Huron is S.E. to Lake Erie— nearly due E. from that lake, and then N. E. to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, receiving in its vast course almost all the rivers that have their sources in the extensive range of mountains to the northward called the l.dmts Height, that sepa- rates the waters falling into Hudson's Bay from those that descend int6 the Atlantic ; together with all those rivers that rise in the ridge which com- mences on its 8. bank, running nearly S. W. to where the ridge falls on Lake Champlain. From the sea to Montreal, this superb river is called the St. Lawrence, from thence to Kingston in Upper Canada, the ('ataraqui or Iroquois ; between Lake Ontario and Erie the Niagara ; between lakes Erie and St. Clair the Detroit ,• between lakes St. Clair and Hun ii the St. Clair ; and between lakes Huron and Superior the distance is called the Narrows or Falls of St. Mary. The St. Lawrence discharges * to the ocean annually about 4,<277>B80 millions of tons of fresh water, of which *^, 112, 120 millions of tons may be reckoned melted snow ; the quantity discharged before the thaw comes on, bemg 4,512 * Accoriiinp; to Mr. M'Taggart, a shrewd and humourous writer, to whom I am indebted for .several valuable facts, the solid contents in cubic feet of the St. Lawrence, embracing lake.s Superior, Huron, Michigan, Erie and Ontario, is esti- mated at l,r)47,7'.»2,3r)0,0U0 cubic feet, and the superficial area being 72,'j3() stpiare miles, the water therein would f(jrm a . cubic column of nearly :!2 miles on i.ach side ' PUYiSICAL ASI'KCT. /.) V.) millions of tons per day for '2 1() days, and the quan- tity after the thaw begins, beinjj 'iTi.otiO miUions per day for l!25 days, the depth?^ and velocity when in and out of flood duly considered : hence a ton of water being; nearly equal to 55 cubic yards of pure snow, the St. Lawrence frees a country of more than 2,(HK) miles square, covered to the depth oi three feet. The embouchure of this tirst class stream is that part of the Gulf of St. Lawrence where the island of Anticosti divides the mouth of the river into two branches. This island,* 130 miles 'ong; and 30 broad, has neither bay nor harbour suthcient to atford shelter for shipping in bad weather. The aspect is gene- rally low, but on the N. of the island the shore is more elevated, and three lofty mountain peaks, with high table land, break the monotonous appearance of so great an extent of flat country. The rivers are of no great magnitude, and we know too little of the soil and nature of the interior, to pronounce a de- cided opinion on its quality ; from the position of the island it may be supposed to be alluvial : it is as yet uninhabited,! but as land becomes more valuable, it will doubtless be colonized. The Cana- ! \ * E. point lat. 49.8.30, long 61.4.1.51). W. point, lat. 49.52.29, long. 64.36.54. Variation, 22 55. S.W. point, lat. 49.23, long. 63.44. t In 1 828 the shipwrecked mariners of the (rrantcus were forced to cannabalism, until the last wretched being perished for want of any more of his unfortunate companions to prey on. The bones and mangled remains of the slain were found scattered about on the wild shores of Anticosti, as if a struggle had taken place in the last extremity. .«.«,-. ♦ .- . -.*fS' V ,t, -.* 7« THE CANADAS. i ^ dian Parliament has recently caused two lip,ht-houses to be ererted on the island, one at the E. point, the other at the S.W. The ship c' innel bet'.veen Anti- costi and the main laud of Lower Canada is about 40 miles broad.* On passing this ishind, the river St. Lawrence expands to a breadth of VO miles j and in mid-chan- nel both cj)asts can be seen, the mountains on the N. shore having their snow rapt crests elevated to a vast heiiiht, and appearinji^ more continuous in their outline than the Pyr^nean range. At the Batj of Seven islands, which derives its name from the hip^h and rugged islands which lie at its entrance, the St. Lawrence is 70 miles broad. There is deep water close to the islands, which ap- pear to rise abruptly out of the sea ; the bay forms within a large round basin, with from 10 to 50 fathoms soundings ; at its head, the land appeiirs to sink low in the horizon, while that on each side is high and rugged. From Skven Islands Bay to Pointe aux Peres there is little to attract attention, except two very extraordinary mountains, close to each other, called the Paps of Matana, nearly opposite to which is the bold and lofty promontory of Mont Pelce, where the river is little more than 25 miles wide. After pas- sing St. Barnabe Isle the voyager arrives at Bic island, (153 miles from Quebec), which is three miles * Sailing directions for navigators, lat. and long, of head- lands, bearings of light-houses, distances, variations of the compass, and every point a knowledge of which is essential to the mariner in the gulf and river of St. Lawrence will be found in the large Edition. ;i.i„Jlkr,, PHYSICAL ASPECT. 77 in length, and nearly one in breadth. (Jood anchor- age is found here. The adjoining Sojgriiory of Bir on the main land is very une\on, and mountainous. Proceeding onwards, several beautiful islands are passed in succession } drecri and Heil islands ^ llarr ditto J Kamouraska isles, the Pilgrims, Bnindij Pots, and a variety of others, all clothed with wood, and some of them iiihabitc.n . 82 THE CAXADAS. tN I 1 the southward, which is precipitous. To the N. and W. of the city the ground slopes more gra- diudly, and terminates in the St. Charles valley. The St. Lawrence flows to the southward of the city, waslies the base of the steep promontory of Cape Diamond, and unites its waters with the small river St. Charles, Howin. • along the N. side of the city, the junction being in front of the town, where thoy expand into a considerable basin forming the harbour of Quebec.* On sailing up the river, no- * thing of the city is seen until the spectator is nearly in a line between the W. point of Orleans isle aid Point Levi, when (as eloquently expressed by aula - telligent and delightful traveller),! Quebec and its surrounding sublimities burst suddenly into view, the grand and vast landscape beina; so irresistibly striking, that few ever forget the majestically impressive pic- ture it presents. An abrupt promoi'.tory '350 feet high, crowned with an impregnable citadel, (theCtibraltar of the New World), surrounded Ijy strong battle- ments, on which the British banners proudly wave ; the bright tinned steeples of the cathedrals and churches ; the huge vice regal chateau of St. Louis, supported by piers, and overhanging the precipice ; | the denseness of the houses, and hangards (ware- houses) of the lower town ; the fleet of ships at Wolfs Cove, and others at the wharfs ; steamers plying in every direction ; multitudes of boats of * The distance from one river to another across the ridge is rather more than a mile. t John M'Gregor, Esq. i This uici baronial pile was burnt in 18:54. I u ^^. PHYSICAL ASPECT. 83 every shape ; ships on the stocks, or hiuncliinj;- ; tho white sheets ot" the cataract of Montmorenci tum- bling* into the St. Lawrence over a '2'20 feet ledge ; the churches, houses, fields and woca'.s of Beauport and Charlesbours^, with mountains in the distance ; the high grounds, spire, 8<.c. of St, Joseph ; some Indian wigwams and canoes near Point Levi, and vast rafts or masses of timber descending on the noble river from the forests of the (Ottawa, mav con- vey some idea of the view unfolded to the traveller who sails up the St. Lawrence, when lie first espies the metropolis of the British Empire in North America. The city is nominally di\ ided into two, called the Upper cind Lower towns : the latter being built at the base of the promontory, level with high water, where the rock has been removed to m;ike room for the houses, which are generally con- structed in the old style, of stone, two or three storit -. high. The streets are narrow and ill ventilated. From the Lower to the Upper Town there is a witiding street (Mountain-street), extremely steep, wlijt.h is commanded by judiciously planted canndu, ;:nd ter- minates at an elevation of '200 feet abo\ e the river, iit the city walls, or 'Break Neck Stairs,' vvhcre the Upper Town commences, extending iis limits con siderably to the westward, along the slope of the ridge, and up the promontory towards the Cai)e, with- in 50 or 60 yards of its summit. The aspect is N. and advantageously ])l;iced for ventilation, although the streets are narrow and irregular. 'Jhere are sub- '^•1 -% '4 1 -,«Mii*-i>M*Mim»^'>'.>uu»« i 1 84 THE CANADAS. I I I! n u urb.s to each town ; in the Upper, they extend along the slope of the ridge called St. John's j in the Lower, they extend along the valley from the St. ('harles called the Rocks. The influence of the tides, which extend several leagues beyond Quebec, raise the waters at the confluence of the two rivers many feet above their ordinary level, and overflow the St. Charles valley, which rises gradually from the river to the northward, in a gentle slope for a few miles, until it reaches the mountains. This valley and slope is wholly under cultivation, and extremely rich and picturesque. The ridg« on which Quebec stands is also cultivated as far as Cape Rouge to the westward. In 1()()2 Quebec did not contain more than 50 inhabitants ; in 17.5D the population was estimated at between S and 9,000} in 1825 and 1831 the census gave as follows : — 1825. 1831. Houses. Population. Population. Upper Town \q„pu„„ Lower Town /^"^•'ec. Suburbs of St. Roch St. John . St. Lewis . Total* . 1 480 549 • 1,128 ! 843 1 120 J 4,163 3,935 6,273 6,025 4,498 4,933 7,983 6,918 1,583 1 3,120 1 20,396 25,916 As a fortress Quebec may be now ranked in the first class, the citadel on the highest point of Cape * Exclusive of the Banlieue of St. John and St. Lewis. AiSaa^.. ».. jHWJh i..'-*i.**M... ' PHYSICAL ASPECT. 85 Diamond, together with a formidable coinbinatioi of strongly constructed works, extending over an area of 40 acres : small batteries connected bv ram- parts are continued from the edge of tlie precipice to the gateway leading to the h)wer town, which is defended by cannon of a large i alibre, and the ap- proach to it up Mountain Street enliladed and flank- ed by many large guns : a line of defence connects with the grand battery a redoubt of great strength armed with ^24 pounders, entirely commanding the basin and passage of the river. Other lines add to the impregnability of Quebec if proj)erly defciided, the possession of which may be said to gi\ e the mastery of Upper as well as of Lower Canada.* A great number of commodious and elegant pub- lic buildings adorn Quebec — such as the llc»tel Dieu, the Ursuline Convent, the Jesuit's Monastery (now a barrack), the Protestant and Catholic Cathedrals, the Scotch Church, Lower Town Church, Trinity and Wesleyan Chapels, Exchange, Bank, Court * On the W,, and in front of the citadel, are the celehrated plains of Abraham, on which Wolfe and Montcalm fought and perished, and to whose united memories the chivalry of our own times (under the auspices of the gt llant Earl of Dalhousie j , has erected an appropriate obelisk with t' followmg inscrip- tion : — ' Mortem virtus communem fama. : ' storia monumen- tum posteritas dedit. llanc columnam in /irorum iliustrium memoriam Wolfe et Montcalm, P. C. Georgius Comes De Dalhousie in Septentrionalis America partibus ad Britannos pertinentibus summam rerum administrans ; opus per multos annos prsetermissum, quid duci egregio convenientius ? Auc- toritate promovens, exemplo stimulans, munificentia fovens. A. S. MDCCCXXVIl.— Georgio IV. Britanniarum Rege.' --X I h.' 86 THK CAN ADAS. t ! li House, Hospitals, B.'ir racks, (iiiol, Seminary, kc. K.C. The town in general is pretty much like an Enplish or rather a French city, except that the houses are mostly roofed with shingles (small pieces of tlun wood) ; many of the best houses, public buildings and great warehouses, are, however, co- vered with tin or iron plates, which, owing to the dryness of the climate, retain their brightness for many years. 'Jliere are several distilleries, breweries, tobacco, soap, candle and other manufactories ; ex- cellent ships are built here,* and every variety of tradesmen may be found in the Upper or Lower town. Many of the siiops, or as they are called in America, stores, are stylijshly fitted up, and in most of them every variety of goods, from a needle to an anchor, or a ribbon to a cable, is to be found. We may now proceed onwards up the St. Law- rence, which widens ag^ain after having passed Que- bec, while the banks gradually lose the elevation observed at Cape Diamond, but are sloping and ex- * On the W. point of Orleans were built the Columbus and the Baroii of Renfrew, those vast leviathans of the deep which human ingenuity contrived to float on its bosom. These ocean castles were strongly framed, timbered and planked as lesser sized vessels, and not put together like rafts as generally supposed. The length of the Columbus on deck was 320 feet, breadth 50, extreme depth 40 feet, and she had four gigantic masts, with every appurtenance in proportion ; 3,000 tons weight were put on board of her before launching. It will be remembered that she reached England safely, and was water- logged on her return ; the equally huge Baron of Renfreu: reached the Thames, and was wrecked off Gravelincs. niYSK Al, ASl'KCT. • S7 quisitely Viiried with groves, churches, white cDt- tages, (irchards Jind corn-lields, until iirri\intr at Richcheu Rapid, 15 miles above (Juobei: ; thence to Three Rivers (."i'i miles) there is little variatiori in the jn:;eneral aspect of the St. I/uvrcnce, the hit;h lands recedini:; to the X. and S. with a low but cul- tivated country. About six miles above Three Rivers, the St. Lawrence expands itself over a level country, and forms Ldlce St. Vctcr, extending; in lenLCth about ^l() miles by IT. in breadth, but very shallow. At the head of the dell i of the lake, the St. Lawrence receives the comparatively small but beau- tiful river Richrlieu, sometimes called ('hambly — at others, Sorell. To Montreal (1>() miles from Three di- vers) the scenery is varied rather by the hand of man than by nature ; with the exception of numerous alluvial and richly tilled islets, many parts are ex- tremely picturesque and highly cultivated, there beintr a succession of parishes mostly consecrated to the memory of some saint, and so thickly peopled as to assume the appearance of one continued villaj^e, the N. shore, through wliich the post road passes, beinp; the most populous. The tributary ri\ers which empty themselves into the St, Lawrence, and which are also settled on, require some notice ; be- fore, however, adverting to them, a brief descrip- tion of Montreal, the second city in the province, may be acceptable. MoNTRKAL, in 45. 46. N. Lat., is situate upon the N. or left bank of the St. Lawrence (lGf» miles S. W. from Quebec), upon the Southerti- raost point of an island bearing the same name, ) '^\' " 5 I ; ^l \ {' ! i :! H I- sh TIIF CANADAS. and which is f(3rmed by the river St. Lawrence on the S., and a branch of the Ottawa, or grand river, on the N. The ishind i ■ in lenj^th from K. to W. 30 miles, and from N. to >. eight miles : its surface is an almost uniform flat, with the exception of an isolcited hill or mountain on its W. extremity, which rises from 500 to S(K) feet higher than the river level. Along its base, and particularly up its sides, are thickly interspersed corn fields, orchards and villas, above which, to the very summit of the mountain, trees grow in luxuriant variety. The view from the to]), though wanting in the sublime grandeur of Cape Diamond ut Quebec, is romanti- cally picturesque : on the S. the blue hills of Ver- mont, and around a vast extent of thiclily inhabited, cultivated and fertile country, embellished with woods, waters, churches, cottages and farms, — be- neath the placid city of Montreal — its shipping and river craft, and the fortified island of St. Helena, altogether exhibiting a scene of softly luxuriant beauty. Within a mile to the N. W. of the town the range of the mountain gradually declines for a few miles to the VV. and N . to the level of the sur- rounding country. The bank of the river upon which Montreal is built, has a gradual elevation of 20 to 30 feet, sloping again in the rear of the town, where there is a canal to carry off any accumulated water : the land then again undulates to the N. to a higher range. The streets are parallel with the river, and intersect each other at right angles ; the houses are for the most part of a greyish stone, covered with sheet iron or tin : many of them are n PHYSICAL ASPKrr. 89 handsome structures, and would be considered as such even in London. Amonp the principal edifices are the Hotel Dieu, tiie Convent of Notre Dame, the (leneral Hospital, the New College, H6pital irencral des Sd'urs grises, the French ( athedral, Knglish and .Scotch Churches, Court House, (iovernment House, Nelson's Monument, liarracks, (taol, >^c. &c. The new Roman Catholic Cathedral is the most splendid temple in the tietv world, and only surpassed in the old by interior grandeur. It was commenced in 1824, finished in 18*29, and dedi- cated to the Virgin Mary. In length it is 2'25 feet, breadth ^234, and the height of the walls is 1 1 '2 feet. The architecture is of the rich Gothic of the 13tli century. It has six massive towers., between which is a promenade along the roof ^,5 feet wide, ele- vated 112 feet. There are seven altars, and the E. window behind the grand altar is 70 feet high by 33 feet broad ; the other windows 361 feet by 10. It is surrounded by a fine terrace, and the chime of bells, the clocks, altars, &c. correspond with the magnificent exterior. This splendid structure will accommodate l'i,OCK) persons, who may disperse in six minutes by five public and three private en- trances. In the extent and importance of h<^r trade — in the beauty of her public and private buildings — in the gay appearance of her shops, and in all the exter- nal signs of wealth, Montreal far surpasses the metropolitan city of the province. Its popula- tion in 1825 was 22,357 ; and in 1831, 27,297 ; at present it is about 35,000. The whole island is li '> ■ u 1 1 ; i ^ 90 TIIK CANADAR. comprised in one seie:niory, and belongs to the priests who are consequently wealthy, but by no means rig;orous in exacting the lods et ventcs due to them on the mutation of land, — they usually com- pound for these fines. The islands contiguous to Montreal have been al- ready described j and being compelled to a rigid eco- nomy of space, I proceed to notice th^ Ottaua or (irand River, which falls into the 8t. Lawrence above Montreal, and forms the north-western boun- dary of Lower Canada. Tub Ottawa or Guaxd Rivkr — has its origin in Lake Temiscaming, u])wards of 850 miles N.W. of its jvmction witli the St. Lawrence — reckoning however Lake Temiscaming, as but an extension of the Ottawa, in the same manner as we have done Ontario, Krie, Huron, Superior, 8i.c. with re- gard to the source oi' the St. Lawrence, the remotest spot whence the Ottawa issues is more than 100 miles beyond I>ake Temiscaming, giving it there- fore a course of nearly 500 miles. As before ob- served, little is known of the country generally, beyond the Falls and Portairi des ^4 LI inn dies, dis- tant 110 miles above Hull. At the AUumfAies, the Ottawa is divided into two channels, the one to the N. E., the other to the S. W. of a large island, fifteen miles long by four broad : the southerly channel expands below the falls and rapids of the grand Allumettcs to the width of three or four miles, at the head of which an arm of the river opens an entrance to the Mnd and Musk Rat Lakes, Twelve miles further S. the river again forms into two ! r .,''(,. .Uoii-iiC. J PHYSICAL ASPECT. 01 channels, being separated by an island twenty miles in length by seven in breadth : owinti^ to the nu- merous cascades and falls, the scenery on the Ot- tawa is here extremely wild and romantic. For ten miles, from the Cascades to the foot of the Che- naux, the Ottawa is singularly diversified by nu- merous beautiful islands, richlv clad with trees ot luxuriant foliage. Clustered in various piiris of the river, these islands divide the stream into as many channels, through wliich the waters are impel- led with a degree of violence proportioned to the nar- rowness of their beds, and contribute to heigliten the beauty of the landscape, the effect of which is not a little enhanced by the banks of the Ottawa being here composed of white marble, which can be traced for two or three miles .Jong the margin of the stream. This delightful district is now being- colonized, and the grateful soil repays with abun- dance the toil of the cultivators. TheGATiNKAU rises in some large lakes far in the interior, traverses Hull, and falls into the Ottawa about half a mile farther down. It is navigable for steam- boats live miles from its mouth — it then be- comes rapid for fifteen miles, and is used for turn- ing several mills ; then it is navigable for 3(K> miles for canoes, &c. traversing an immense and interest- ing vale, full of natural riches, and abounding in views of the wildest and most romantic interest. At the foot of the Chenaux the magnificent Lake des Chats opens to view, — in its extreme length fifteen miles and in mean breadth one, but with its N. shore so deeply indented by several sweeping ♦ , i in 01 THE CANADA8. I* ll I i II ,1 ! ! 1 bays, as to extend the Chats at times to three miles in width. The richly wooded islets which stud the lake, add to the natural beauties of the sweetly soft scenery of the peculiarly glassy and beautiful Ot- tawa. Kinnel lodge, the hospitable residence of the celebrated Highland chieftain Mac Nab, is roman- tically situated on the S. bank of the lake, about five miles above the head of the Chat rapids, which are three miles long, and pass amidst a labyrinth of varied islands, until the waters of the Ottawa are suddenly precipitated over the falls of the Chats, which to the number of fifteen or sixte;en form a curved line across the river regularly divided by woody islands, the falls being in depth from sixteen to twenty feet. From the Chats to Lake Chaudiere (six miles) the Ottawa contracts its channel, but expands again to form this beautiful basin, which is eighteen miles long by five broad ; the southern shores (forming a part of Upper Canada) are more bold, elevated and better settled than the northern, which are within the province of Lower Canada. At the S. E. end of the lake, rapids again impede the navigation, and continue successively from the head of Rapides des Chcnes to the Chaudiere falls at Hull township. Above the falls, the Ottawa is 500 yards wide, and its scenery agreeably embellished by numerous small grove clad islets, rising here and there amidst the waters as they gently ripple by, or rush on with more or less violence to the vortex of those broken, irregular, and extraordinary chasms, the Great and Little Kettle or Chaudiere. PHYSICAL ASPECT. 9S The principal falls are sixty feet in height by ^12 feet in widths — they are situate near the centre of the river, and attract by their forcible indraught a considerable proportion of the Ottawa's waters, which are strongly compressed by the circular shape of the rock that forms the boiling recipient ; — l)e- neath, the foaming heavy torrents struggl'^ violently to escape, rising into clouds of spray, and as- cending at intervals in revolving columns of mist high above the cataract's surftice. In the great Chaudiere or Kettle, the sounding line has not found bottom at 300 feet deep, and it is supposed that there are subterraneous passages to convey the immense mass of water beneath the river -, in fact half a mile down it comes boiling up again from the Kettles* It is across these singular falls that the cele- brated Union bridges which connect Upper and Lower Canada have been thrown, and they cer- tainly combine with the greatest possible effect, ingenious works of art with objects of natural gran- deur and sublimity. The chain consists of four principal parts, two of which are truss bridges, overhanging the channels, and unsupported by piers } a third is a straight wooden bridge, and a fourth is built partly of dry stone (with two cut lime-stone arches) and partly of wood. The truss bridge over the broadest channel is SJ12 feet long, thirty feet wide, and forty above 3 I * It has been said tliat a Cow one morning was carried over the fftll, tunil)led with the Cataract into the Little Kettle, and came up hale and well at Fox point, ten miles down the river ! &4 THK CANADA8. ' I i 1 I the surface of the Ottawa. The construction of these bridges was, as may well be supposed, at- tended with considerable difficulty. Below the Chaudiere-falls and Union bridges, the Ottawa has an uninterrupted navigation for steam boats to Grenville, sixtv miles distant. The cur- rent is gentle, the river banks low and generally flooded in spring to a considerable distance, espe- cially on the N. or Lower Canada side ; but though the scenery is tame, it is always pleasing, and as de- scribed by Colonel Bouchette, (to whom I repeat I am indebted for much valuable and interesting infor- mation) the frequently varying width of the river — its numerous islands — the luxuriant foliage of its banks ; objects ever changing their perspective com- binations as the steamer moves along — and an in- fant settlement appearing here and there on the skirts of the forest, and the margin of the stream, are all in themselves possessed of sutlicient interest to destroy the monotonous flatness upon this part of ' Ottawa's tide.' At Grenville, commences the impetuous rapid termed the Long Sault, which is only stemmed or descended by voijageum, or raftsmen of experienced skill and energy. Below Long Sault the Ottawa continues at intervals, rapid and unnavigable as far as Point Fortune, (immediately opposite the E. out- line of Chatham) where it expands into the lake of the Two Mountains, and finally forms a junction with the St. Lawrence river below the cascades, where the black hue of the waters of the Ottawa strongly contrasts with the blueish green of those of St. Law- • 1 PHYSICAL ASPECT. 95 rencc, and renders the line of confluence distinctly visible. A few other rivers of Lower Cantida which empty themselves into the St. LawrencCj require to be briefly noticed. Proceeding from tiie Ottawa down the St, Law- rence on the northern shore, we arrive at the large river — St. jNIal'rice or thkee Rivers, which although of inconsiderable depth, is inferior in size only to the Ottawa and Saguenay. The St. Maurice drains an extent of country more than 140 miles in length, and 20 to l(X) in breath, equivalent to 8, }(X) square miles. The source of the stream is a large lake called Oskelanaio, near the skirts of the N. VV. ridge of mountains. The course is generally from N. to S. inclining a little to the eastward, and receiving many tributary rivers and lakes in its progress. Among the former are the Kasikan, Pisnay, Rib- bon, VV indigo, Vermillion, Bastonais, Aux Rats, Mattouin and Shawanegan, After passing the falls of the latter river, the St. Maurice turns again to the south, and falls into the St. I-iawrence below the town of Three Rivers, forming several islands at its mouth. The banks of the St. Maurice are genendly high, and covered with large groups of fine majestic trees ; navigation for boats is prac- ticable for thirty-eight leagues to La Tuque, with the exception of the portages. At VVemontichin- que in 47 N. the St. Maurice is divided into three branches, and up the W. branch is a most ex- traordinary chain of lakes and navigable waters, the /;! -^ ) r: i (*■ i I: -i i^ I,- t :,.. 1 i I ■I. 96 TUE CANADAS. number of which is estimated at twenty-three, varying in size and depth, the latter being in many places forty fathoms. There are about fourteen small islands of different sizes in various parts of the 8t. Maurice, and there are a variety of falls and cascades of greater or less extent. Those of Grand M^re, about four miles above the Hetres fall or cascade, are extremely beautiful and have a perpendicular descent of 30 feet. The stupendous falls of the Shawanegan, six and a half miles lower than the Hetres, are magnificent, the fall being 150 feet perpendicular, and the river rush- ing with terrific violence in two channels against the face of the jliff below, the channels are again united, and the vast and foaming torrent forces its way through a narrow passage not more than thirty yards wide. Before quitting the St. Maurice, it may be pro- per to observe, that the large river AuvLievres, which has a course of upwards of 150 miles to the Ottawa, anastamoses with the St. Maurice, by means of the extraordinary chain of lakes (of which Lake Kempt is the principal) above described. Cham PLAIN River deserves a separate notice, owing to a particular event. It rises in the Seig- niory of Cap de la Magdelaine, running N. E, it tra- verses the country to Champlain, enters Batiscan where it turns S., and forming the boundary between the latter seigniory and Champlain, it falls into the St. Lawrence. An extraordinary circumstance is stated to have occurred on this river's banks a few years ago, which reminds us of the moving bogs in Ireland. A large tract of land containing a super- ficies of 207 arponts was instantaneously moved 30O PHYSICAL ASPECT. 97 yards, from the edge of the water and precipitated into the river, which it dantiined up to a distance of twenty-six arpents, and by obstructing the waters, caused them to swell to an extraordinary height : this singular event was accompanied by an appalling soimd 3 a dense vapour, as of jiitch and sulphur, filled the atmosphere, oppressing the neighbouring inhabitants almost to suffocation. My authority for this statement is Col. Bouchct^e ; it appears to be a corroborating proof of the truth of the great earth- quake in 1663, as detailed under the HistciicaliSection. CiiAUDiEHE river rising from Lake Megantic, waters a country of 1(K) miles in length, and about 30 in breadth, thus clearing nearly .'J,01M) square miles of territory of its redundtint waters : in breadth it va- ries from 40() to 6()0 yards ; the stream is frequently divided by islands, some of them containing many acres, and covered with timber trees. The banks of the Chaudiere are in general high, rocky, and steep, thickly clothed with wood ; the bed of the river is rugged, and often much contracted by rocks, j ur ting- out from the sides, which occasion violent rapids j one of the most celebrated of these is about four milos from its mouth. Narrowed by salient points, extending from each side, the precipice over which the waters rush is scarcely more than 13() yards in breadth,and the height from which the water descends as many feet ; huge masses of rock, rising above the surface (tf the current at the break of the fall, divide the stream into three portions, forming par- tial cataracts that unite before they reach the basin VOL. I. H t \ ! !1 „ i V I ^1 T I is \M -■■«<« i«i iiilli>l IIIIIIIM 98 THE, CAXADAS. \h \l^ I * I i f I' '*,, which receives them below. The continual action of the water has worn the rock into deep excava- tions, which give a globular figure to the revolving bodies of brilliant white foam ; the spray, quickly spread by the wind, produces in the sunshine a splendid variety of prismatic colours, while the dark- hued foliage on either side, pressing close on the margin of the river, forms a striking contrast with the snow-like effulgence of the falling torrent j in- deed, few falls can be compared with those of Chau- diere for picturesque beauty, and they are frequently visited by the colonists or passing strangers. Richelieu River, called also Cliambhj, Sorel, St. Louis and St. John, deserves consideration, as af- fording a quick and easy water communication from the United States territory {via Lake Champlain) into the heart of Canada. Its principal origin is in the United States, and estimating its length from the south point of Lake George to the termination at Sorel or William Henry Town, on the banks of the St. Lawrence, it cannot be less than 160 miles — tlie medium extent of tract watered being thirty miles, thus draining a surface of 4,800 square miles j only a portion of which lies within the province of British America, the distance from the boundary line to the mouth of the river being about seventy miles out of the 100. The banks of the river are generally from eight to twelve feet high, diversified on each side by many farms and extensive settlements, in a high state of improv ement j on or near it are neat, populous and t "»»toMh**» PHYSICAL ASPECT. 99 lal action > excava- revolving ', quickly nshine a the dark- e on the rast with rent ; in- of Chau- equently s. Sorcl, St. •n, as af- ion from ain) into is in the rom the lation at s of the les — tlie y miles, s ; only f British e to the s out of eight to y many tate of )us and flourishing villages, handsome churches, numerous mills of various kinds, good roads in all directions, and every characteristic of a prosperous country. From its junction with the St. Lawrence, decked vessels of 150 tons may ascend from twelve to fifteen miles, then the navigation is carried on by boats, canoes, rafts, and craft of large dimensions. The breadth of the bed at its mouth is !250 yards, which it preserves with a few exceptions, occasioned by some small and beautiful islands, up to Chambly basin, which is an expansion of the river nearly cir- cular, about a mile and a half in diameter, embel- lished by several little islands, and covered with fine verdure and natural wood, as ornamentally disposed as if regulated by the hand of art. From the basin of Chambly to the Isle >Ik Portage the breadth is 500 yards— beyond this it spreads to double that distance, and continues to widen still more or less to St. John's, where there is a ship navigation to the towns on Lalie Champlain.'^ MoNTMOREXci river and falls cannot be passed over without notice. The river rises in Lac des * Lake Champlain, so called from the (listinatiiishod French- man who discovered it in HiO'J, lit'.s between Vennunt and New York; its whole length from W hit ehnll at its S. extremity to Its termination, 24 miles N. of the Canada line, is 12S miles, with a breadth varying from one to sixteen miles, (mean width five miles,) and coverintr a surface of about COO square miles. The outlet of the lake is the Richelieu River above described. There are above sixty islands of different sizes in the lake, the principal of which are N. and S. Hero and Isle Lamotte. N. Hero, or Grand I- ' md, is twenty-four miles long and from two to four wide. Lake Champlain has a depth suvficient for the ; V t ii I n i n 100 THE CANADAS. ,■ I ^ I ■ \ 1/ t'r- Ne'igps : its earlier course is small, but from its origin to its embouchure it is little better than a continued current, until it ft)rms the celebrated cata- ract of Montmorenci, where its breadth is from six- teen to twenty yards, and the height of t)ie fall '250 feet, beini^ 100 more than the Niagara. A little declination of the bed of the river before it reaches tiie fall, gives a great velocity to the stream, which is precipitated o\ er the brink of the perpendicular rock in an extended sheet of a fleecy appearance resem- bling snow. An immense spray rises from the bottom in curling vapours, displaying, {is observed with reference to the (;handiere falls, an incon- ceivably beautifiil variety of prismatic colours. I will not detain the reader by any more details re- specting the numerous rivers that empty themselves into the St. Lawrence, after noticing the Sauuenay, which is a very remarkable river, and deserving the attention of the tourist or scientific traveller. It rises in Lake St, John,* and flows lOS miles before its junc- tion with the St. Lawrence, which takes place 1(K) miles below Quebec. The course of the Suguenay is inter- rupted by foaming torrents, and its width, though al- ways considerable, varies much like the other N. Ame- largest vessels ; half the rivers and streams which rise in Ver- mont fall into it, and it receives at Ticonderagf) the waters of Lake St. George from the S. S. W. which is said to he 100 feet higher than the waters of Lake Champlain. It is well stored with fish. * Situate between the parallels 48.27. to 48.51. N. Lat. and 71.35. to 72.10. W. Long. ; about 100 miles in circumference and nearly circular. *l'l» * i» IW r l( t'1>«».««>.ih-.»^««l(«t^!S^ M |l » l>l l > l ll l l 1l '«*t»W'Y-W*^>l«» «'> ^'>''*^ PHYSICAL ASPECT. 101 rican rivers ; the depth at its mouth in mid-chunnel has not been ascertained ; Captain Martin could not find bottom with 830 fathoms of line * , two miles higher, soundings 110 fathoms, and at seventy miles from the St. Lawrence, soundinj^s of from fifty to sixty fatiioms. Thirty rivers pour their tributary waters into the Sagiienay, many of them navigable for large boats. The banks of this noble stream vary from WO to 2(K)0 feet in height, rising in some places vertically from the river's side ; the scenery throughout being wildly niagniticent. As far up as C/iicnutinti, (75 miles from its mouth), the bases of the lofty and sometimes scantily wooded mountains of granite laved on both sides by its waters. The Point Aux Boulfaux and the land for some distance on the W. side of its mouth, are alluvial deposits, contain- ing probably the richest soil in the world, being composed of a species of soapy- grey marl, from thirty to forty feet deep. Sixty miles from the mouth of the Siiguenay, (where the port of Tadoussac is situate in Lat. 48. 5, Long. 6[).37-) is a very re- markable harbour, called Bay de Has, or Ha-Ha-Bay, capable ' narrow. It empties itself into the fine river St. Francis, by means of the river Magog, which runs through Lake Scaswaninepus. The Memphramagog Lake is said to be navigable for ships of 500 tons burthen. % i( 4 , and contains l'27.949 superfi ial square inile<«. Montreal (including islands) 110 alon^ rhc St. Lawrence, 310 inland, and 54,80*2 sii}K'riitiaJ «f jiiare miles. Three Rivers (in- cludintJ: St. I'ranris and islands) h'^l along the St. Lawrcn* <', .'i90 inland, iind' 1 a, 823 superticial square miles. (la^pi jK-ninsula (including islands) 80 along the St. Lawrence, '20O inland, and 7, '281) superficial square miles. Total supcrlicies in square miles, '205,8(>3. QuKDEC District — Rivers. JV. of St. Lawrence : St. Anne, Jaques Cartier, Jiatiscan, St. Charles, Montmorenci, Gouffre, Mai liay, Black River, Sagu- enay, Belsianite, St. John, St. Anne, L., l*ortneuf. S. of St. Lawrence: Chaudiere, part of, Etchemin, Du Sud, DuLoup, (Jreenriver, Rimouski.Trois Pis- toles, Mitis,Tartigo, Matane, Madawaska, St. Francis, part of, St. John, part of. Lakes. A', of St. Law- rence : St. John's, Commissioners, Quaquagamack, Wayagamac, liouchette, Kajoulwang, Ontaratri, St. Charles, Chawgis, Assuapmoussin, Shetoubish. .S'. of St. Lawrence : Temiscouata,Matapediac,Mitis, Abaw- sisquash, Longlake, Pitt, Trout, William, St. Francis, McTavish, Macanamack. Montreal District.— A^ of St. Lawrence: Ga- teneau, Lievres, Petite Nation, Riviere Blanche, Riviere Du Nord, Mascouche, Achigan, L'Assomp- tion, La^chenaye, Berthier, Chaloupe, Du Ch6ne. S. of St. Lawrence : Richelieu, Sorel, Yamoska and branches, Pike, Montreal L., Chateauguay and branches, Lacolle, Magog, (^oaticook, Missiskoni. ■'i r 3 r ji I ) 1 \ W I I I : 104 THE ANADA8. Lakes. N. of St. Lawrence : White Fish, Sabbh, Killarney, Temiscaming, Lievres, Le Roqiie, Roche- blanc, Pothier, Nimicachinigue, Papineau, Maski- nonge. S. of St. Lawrence : Memphramagog,Tome- t'obi, Missiskoui Bay, Scaswaninepiis pt,, Yamaska Bay, St. Louis, Two Mountains, St. Francis, Chau- diere. Chats, Allumets. Three Rivers District. — N. of St. Lawrence: St. Maurice and Branches, Baticcan pt., Champlain, Du Loup G. and L., Maskinonge, Machiches. S. of St. Lawrence : St. Francis and branches, Nicolet and do. Becancour, Gentilly, Vamaska, part of. Lakes. N.ofSt. Lawrence: O'Cananshing, Matawin, Gold- finch, Shasawataiata, Montalagoose, Oskelanaio, Crossways, Perchaudes, Blackbeaver, Bewildered. S. of St, Lawrence : Nicolet, St. Francis, point of, Megai'tie, St. Paul, Outardes, Blacklake, Connecti- cut, Weedon, Scaswaninepus pt. St. Peter. 'i'he vast territory embraced in the province of Upper Canada, as regards the inhabited parts, is in general, a level, champaign country ; for, from the division line on Lake St. Francis to Sandwich, a dis- tance of nearly 600 miles westerly, nothing like a mountain occurs, although the greater part of the country is gently undulated into pleasing hills, fine slopes, and fertile vallies : but a ridge of rocky country runs north-east and south-westerly through the Newcastle and Midland districts, towards the Ottawa or Grand River, at the distance of from fifty to one hundred miles from the north shore of Lake Ontario and the course of the River St. Lawrence. PHYSICAL ASPECT. lO.'j Passing this ridge to the north, the explorer de- scends into a wide and rich valley of great extent, which is again bounded on the north by a rocky and mountainous country, of still higher elevation. Farther to the north, beyond the French river which fsdls into Lake Huron, are immense moun- tains, some of them of great but unknown elevation. The countrv on the north and west side of Lake Ontario, and of Lake Erie which is still further west, continues flat as far as Lake Huron, with only occasional moderate elevations of the surface of easy ascent. In the whole extent of this tract of country, there is but a small portion of it under cultivation, the remainder being in its primitive state of forests, lakes, and rivers ; the latter for the most part falling into the great lakes, or into larger rivers, which again empty themselves into the great artery of the country, the St. Lawrence. The settlements are chiefly confined to the borders, or within a few miles of the borders of the great lake and rivers. In ordtr to convey a clear idea of the physical aspect of the province, it will be necessary to proceed at once to a description of its vast inland seas. Lakes of Upper Canada. — Superior, called also Keetcheegahmi and Missisaivgaiegon, the largest and most elevated of those singular seas,* which in Canada seem to occupy or supply the place that great mountains do in other countries, is situate be- tween the meridians of 9*2.19 and 84.18 west longi- * The lakes of Upper Canada are innumerable, a few of those 106* THE CANADAS. f ! K- !| \ I M I tude, and the parallels of 49.1 and 46.26 north latitude, * and in the form of an irregular oblong basin, about 1,255 geographical miles in circum- ference, in length from east to west on a curved line through its centre 541 miles,t in its extreme breadth (opposite Peak Island) 140 geographical miles with best known are as follow — (Superior and Ontario are unfa- thomable in the centre.) Names. Length. Breadth. Circum- ference. Average depth. Miles. Miles. Miles Feet. Superior .54 1 140 1225 1000 Huron 2r.() 190 1100 860 Michigan 2f)0 90 1000 Erie 280 63 700 250 Ontario 180 80 600 500 Simcoe 40 30 120 St. Clair 35 30 100 20 George 25 58 Rice Lake 24 2 to 5 58 * The variation of the magnetic needle is from 2.42. to 12. 18. east; the dip at Fort William is 77.58, and the variation there 9. 5. east, the latter increasing gradually from the east to the west extremity of the lake, being greatest near the grand portage and Isle Royale, but the needle, (according to the scientific Captain Bayfield, R. N. who has written a valuable paper on the geology of this lake,) is very much disturbed in many places by the magnetic nature of the oxides of iron which enter into the composition of many of the rocks. "f* This measurement commences from Point Iroquois, at the mouth of the River St, Mary, (communicating with Lake Hu- ron), passes on the outskirts of all bays, (except their breadth rendered the crossing dangerous,) and circumnavigating Point Keewanoonan, terminates at the mouth of the river St. Louis at the Fond du Lac. PHYSICAL APPECT. 107 a depth actiuilly measured of from 80 to 150 fathoms and without soundings in its centre ; the waters al- ways extremely cold, as pure and clear as any in the world, and devoid of tides, or any other kind of perio- dical rise and fall. During heavy gales of wind, the waters of this, and the other great hikes, are raised into ocean-like wsives,* with currents in various di- rections : on the breaking up of the winter snows and ice, the waters of the lakes are higher than at any other times, while it is a prevalent opinion that there is a gradual diminution of the waters of Supe- rior, Huron, Ontario, &c. as shewn by their banks. [See Geology.] This monarch of the lakes in the Old or New World, is placed to the south of, and neir to the ridge of high lands, which stretching from the rocky mountains to Lake Superior, in broad diluvial plains and undulations, divides the waters, flowing into the Mexican gulf, from those of Hudson's Bay ; and proceeding from Lake Superior eastward to the Coast of Labrador, in a continuous range of hills, con- stitutes the north dividing range of the valley of the St. Lawrence, as described under Lower Canada. From near the west-end of the lake, this ridge is lost to the south, and in the elevations of the United * The jea (if it may be so termed,} on Lake Ontario, is so high during a sharp gale, that it was at first thought the smaller class steam boats could not live it ; and on Lake Superior, the waves almost rival those of the far-famed cape of storms, while the ground swell, owing to the comparative shallowriess, or little specif? gravity of the fresh water, is such as to make the oldest sailor sick. 108 THE CANADAS. ll. : 1 1 ■^1 ! 4 H I t ; I i 'V I ' I I t States, still aflfording a connected series of succes- sively descending levels for the St. Lawrence, its Lakes, and vast tributaries, the Ottawa, Saguenay,&c. The surface of Superior is 617 feet above— Siud the bottom of its basin (so far as we can estimate its sounding) upwards of 500 feet below the level of the Atlantic ocean, and 52 i feet above Lake Erie : it receives 220 tributary rivers and streams, which pour into the lake a greater volume of water than makes its exit at the only outlet (the falls of St. Mary, which connects Superior with Lake Huron) j the water discharged into Huron, being far less in quantity than that poured into Superior from nume- rous rivers, in order to supply the immense evapo- ration continually going on. The length of the American shore of Lake Su- perior from the mouth of the Ontonagon is 500 miles } the Canadian coast is estimated at 1200 miles in length. Some of the rivers on the S. coast are 153 miles long j the principal of these the Ontonagon, or Coppermine, Montreal, Mauvaise, Boisbrule, and St. Louis, communicate with the Mississippi. Numerous islands exist in various parts of the lake, some of considerable size ; hie Royals is 45 miles long by 7 or 8 broad, lying in north-east and south- west direction ; Caribou is about 6 miles in circum- ference, and the Islands of the Twelve Apostles are 23 in number, with perpendicular chfFs of sandstone on the north and south-east, 6*0 feet in height. At Les Portailles and Grand Island, there are perpen- dicular cliffs broken into the most beautiful and picturesque arches, under some of which a boat can ■■^ k PHYSICAL ASPECT. 109 pass, porticos, columns, aad caverns of iramer.'^e dimensions. The shores of Lake Superior (whose direction is east and west) are in several places rocky, consi- derably elevated, with occasional large sandy bays,* and jetting bold promontories : the great promon- tory or peninsula of Keewanonan, dividing it into two equal sections, is very high at its central part, consisting of steep conical granite hills, 1(M)0 feet above the lake. Of the country around Lake Su- perior, whether on the American or on the British territory, we have but an imperfect knowledge ; there is a great extent of hill and dale, and in some places, what in Upper Canada may be termed moun- tains, ranges of 1,500 feet above the level of the lake, and consequently 2,100 feet above the f)cean.t At Gros-Cap ( where Lake Superior is entered, from the River St. Mary, which connects it with Lake Huron) the ])rospect is not only beautiful but magnificent, when aided by considerations of the re- moteness, magnitude, and celebrity of this vast body of water ; the spectator standing beneath the shat- tered crags 300 feet high, has before him an almost boundless flood, which, if it burst its barriers, would overwhelm a continent : in the front a low island, on the south, Point Iro(iuois declining from a high tabular hill, and on the N.W. a picture.s([ue and elevated country is dimly seen in the distance. I i> * It is sandy from Point Jr()(|Uoisto the pictured rocks, then rocky to the foot of the Fond du Lac, with occasional plains of sand. t The Porcupine mountains, 200 feet high, approach the Lake on the south-shore in Long. 90. 110 TIIK CAN ADAS. I i .1. •• 1 • i \ n I i 1 f 1 t ■ I \ The line of rocky hills constituting the north shore of Lake Superior consists of rocks and crags, piled upon each other to the height of 1 50 or 200 feet at the north end, and about 400 to 450 feet at the south end, where they dip into the lake, from an elevation of 300 feet, in advanced broken scraps, lowering, successively on each other. Along the east shore of the lake from Gros Cap to the River Michipicoton (125 miles) are several promontories, and beautiful bays and rivers ; among these are Batchewine and Huggewong Bays, oif the mouth of which latter is the island termed Montreal, or liogguart. The west end of Lake Superior termed Fond du Lac, is a slowly contracting Ctd de mc commencing in Long. 1)1, at the promontory opposite the Twelve Apostles Isles, running 80 miles in length, with a breadth of eight to ten miles at the bottom. There are 139 rivers* and creeks on the whole of the south shore, but fewer in the east than in the western division. Some of the mountdns near the lake, such as Thunder Mountain rise to the height of 1,400 feet : this latter is of considerable breadth, several miles long, and almost tabular at the west, with the east or other half irregular andhammocky. In general, the hills have flat pine clad summits, giving variety to the prospect. The pictured rocks (so called from their appearance) are situate on the south side of the lake, towards the east end, and are really quite a natural curiosity ; they form a perpendicular wail, 300 feet high, extending about 12 miles, witli * The river St. Louis is 150 yards broad at its mouth, hut expands imiiitd lately into a sheet of water five or six milts wide, extending inland 2'i miles of varying breadth. PHYSICAL ASPECT. in numerous projections and indentations in every va- riety of form, and vast caverns, in which the enter- ing waves make a jarring and tremendous sound. Mr. Schoolcraft describes the pictured rocks of Luke Superior as " surprising groups of overhanging pre- cipices, towering walls, caverns, waterfalls, and prostrate ruins, which are mingled in the most won- derful disorder, and burst upon the view in ♦iver varying and pleasing succession." Among the more remarkable objects are the Cascade La Portaille and the Doric Arch ; the cascade consists of a con- siderable stream, precipitated from a height of 70 feet by a single leap into the lake, and projected to such a distance that a boat may pass beneath the fall and the rock, perfectly dry. The Doric Arch has all the appearance of a work of art, and consists of an isolated mass of sandstone, with four pillars supporting an entablature of stone, covered with soil, and a beautiful grove of pine and spruce trees, some of which are 6'0 feet in height. The lake is subject to storms, sudden transitions (tf temperature, and dense fogs and mists. The main heal for June is OG" and for July 04", and of the lake (Jl° ; but the winter is terribly severe and long. The usual forest trees are v\'hite and yellow pine, oak, hemlock, spruce, birch, poplar, with a mixture of elm, maple, and ash, upon some of the rivers' banks. It remains only to be added that, the waters of Lake Superior are very transparent, that their lower strata never gain the temperature of summer, for a bottle sunk to the depth of KKJ feet in J uly, and there filled. I" I i| *'■ m \ Hi; \ '< 1 ; < ^ i 'I vi f i'... 112 THE CANADAS. is, when brought to the surface like ice water. It abounds with trout (weighing from 12lbs. to 50lbs. weight) sturgeon, and white fish large in propor- tion, together with pike, pickerel, carp, bass, herring, and numerous otlier species. The St. Mary's River or Strait, whicli connects Lake Superior with Lake Huron, is about GO miles long.* The great rai)ids, by which travellers usually enter Lake Superior, are termed the falls of St. Mary, in length about three-quarters of a mile by half a mile in breadth, the river being here narrowed by a broad tongue of land, protruding from the north shore, and affording a site for the store houses of the Hudson Bay Company j they are fifteen miles from Lake Superior, in 4G.31 north latitude, with a descent of twenty-two feet ten inches in 900 yards. The rapids are swift flowing billows and broken whitened waters, hurried with velocity over a slope of ledges and huge boulder stones, through a thickly wooded country, whose want of elevation, on either shore, has permitted the formation on each side of a number of islets, divided by channels, which are narrow on the left but much wider on the right bank ; the beds and their sides are lined with large rolled masses, similar to those found in Superior and Huron. The right bank of the rapid varies from 10 to 50 feet in height, composed of light alluvial earth; this accli- * Some persons think a subterraneous communication exists between all the great lakes, as is surmised to be the case be-, tween the Mediterranean and Euxine. -<^<^»i>K^ y > liiii < n > v >' PHYSICAL ASPECT. 11:5 vity is more distant on the Canadian shore. The St. Mary extends above the rapids about fifteen miles through a low well-wooded country, and its bed is from one mile to one mile and a half wide. The current ceases to be felt by boats, two miles above the rapids. Immediately below the rapids, tlie St. Mary widens to upwards of a mile. Lntu- Huron, the third from the Atlantic ocea.i* of the gTeat chain of lakes wiiich occupy the four plateaux of the upper part of the valley of St. Law- rence, is of a very irregular shape ; in length ^250 miles, by U>0 miles in breadth, with a depth of 8()() feet, a height, on its surface above the ocean level, of 590 feet ; and covering an area of 5,<)()0,() 1 am indebted for many observations on Lake Huron*) has an immense de- posit of iron pyrites : the north coast is distinguish- ed by the magnitude of its bays, and the groups of islands which cover the contiguous waters. This coast is terminated on the east, in the strait called False Detour, by a calcareous precipice of consider- able beauty, 500 yards long, and 250 feet high j at the top it is a terrace of rock, below it is separated from the lake by a narrow and high beach. This * Dr. Bigsby. ifc .A«#'yi*r--it-*#« -ll l i ( j. r» « t-tVJ PHYSICAL ASPECT. 11 singular island produces very line naple, o. the bird's eye and curled kinds, pines, cedar, hemlock, poplar, and birch. The False Detour, which separates Drummond Island from the little Munitoulin (or Cockburn Island), is from 8 to lo miles long, and from 3 to G miles wide, with a middle depth seldom less than 40 fathoms ; the opening from the south is spaci- ous and bold, with three fine capes on the west, and one on the east. At the north outlet, the shores are very much rounded, with precipices on the west, and woody steeps to the east : in front, is that part of Lake Huron termed the North Channel, studded with a few islets in pairs, and terminated in the distance by the misshapen hills of the north main ; on the north- west is a blue waving line of the heights of St. Joseph, and on the north-eajst the looming of the isles at the foot of the La Cloche is just visible. Little Manitoulin observes an east course, is of a rounded form, with a diameter of seven or eight miles, and with features somewhat similar, though more elevated, than Drummond Isle : the shores are loaded with successive banks or stairs of smiill de- bris, with here and there terraces of limestone, in situ } inland, the surface ascends rugged, with pro- truding strata rolled in primitive masses, and not unfrequently intersected by short ledges, which often crown the greatest heights, affording a table land of small extent, and well wooded. Between the Little and Grand Manitoulin is the third Detour, eight miles long by four broad, with high shores, and clear at both outlets. ' i 1 r ; lie TIIF. C ANA DAS. I ' t, I i I ' ! i i , I i ' I H 1, ;/ ■ 1 \ ( f ■; ; i ;•■ 1 '•■ i 'J'lie (irand Mdnitoulin, or " Sacred"* Isle, is 7^ miles long, and, in some places, '25 miles broad, but deeply indented by bays, wliich nearly divide the island ; its general features are similar to those of the twoprece Mng named islands, only it is higher, abounds more in jjreeipices, and ih rugp;ed throughout. At the west, its features are more majestic than is observable in any other part of Lake Huron. At the north end of the third (Uionr, its shores are lined with ranges of slungle, suj)portod behind by an ascending country of woods : towards the rentre of this strait, ledges and low precipices begin to appear along the beach, soon rising to the height of '^j'iO feet, crowned with cedars and pines : tiiese ledges cither rise perpendi- cularly, or arc formed of enornuuis piles of displaced masses, from seven to ten yards in diameter, sloping at a high angle, sometimes advancing into the waters of the lake, and alVording a hazardous passage over their slippery sides, under arches and through wind- ing passages. Near the south-east angle of the Detour, a bluff precipice, 40 feet higli, protrudes into the water, skirted by very large cnl)ir masses of rock, — of which masses thebluff is composed. Out of these natural precipices arise clumps of beautiful trees, and Knolls of flowering shrubs, shadowed in the back ground by the dense gloom of impenetrable forests. The other islands in the Manitoulin chain require * The Indian appellation of " sacrod isles" iirst occurs at Lake Huron, and thenee westward is met with Superior, Michigan, and the vast and numei'His lakes of the interior Those who have been in Asia, and have turned their attention to the subject, will recognise the resemblance in sound between the N.A. Indian and Tartar names. *»"l»#»Mv.^B>-l«* a^iKtN'^*^-!^' AMtM.;^.<- PHYSICAL ARPK( T. 117 no separate notice, if wo except those singularly shaped insulated rockn called the Flourr Pots, 'I miles S.S.E. of the fourth Manitoulin, one of which rises 17 feet hi^h, and con^-sists of larp^e tahular masses placed hnrizoutdlh^ one upon the other, nar- row below, h>it broad as they ascend to the summit, — the wiu)le standing on a floor of rock projecting into the lake from the lofty island which bears their name, (uhnt's Head is a siniudar lookiiitj head- land, in MirhifKiroton, or (ieort;;iana Bay, lonsisting of indented limestone IjIuITs, risini; to the height of 800 feet, and skirted by numerous reefs and inlets, and to tl'? soiith-nest presenting a continued range of calcareons precipices. Before proceeding further south on this beauti- ful and extidordinary lake, we must observe the shores of the Huron, between the Manitoulins and the Chip{)awa hunting country. From the Frencli River (which connects Lake Nipissirig wiih Lake Huron) westwards to the Islands of La Cloche, about fio miles distant, the lake near the shore is studded with innumerable islands ; some near tlie main, barren, composed of gncis, and like heaps of ruins ; others, farther out in the lake, loftier, and girded with a belt of flat ground, consisting of shelly limestone, richly wooded. Further west the Islands of La Cloche* form a charming contrast to the bleak hills on the main, which rise KXX) feet above the level of the lake } and with their dark green forests diversified * The name is derived from the belief that some of the islands are composed of dark rocks, which, v.hen struck, sound Jike a bell. I '7 ■ ^ I ] !:f i n ( o J < 1 i ' ^^ US TIIK CANADAS. by grassy vales and dumps of trees, appear like an nrtificial English park. Groups of islands occupy the lake from La Cloche to Missalaga River, fiO miles distant ; some near the main low and barren, others, elevated and woody ; beyond the Missalaga, is a low rocky shore. The north-west arm of Lake Huron, which communicates with Lake Superior, is of an oblong shape, the two longer sides at their western extremities converging towards the north j it contains about 400 square miles, and is crowded with islands of all sizes j the principal, St. Jo- seph,* is 65 miles in circumference, through which runs an undulating ridge, called the Highlands of St. Joseph, 500 feet high : the north-west point of St. Joseph is in longitude 84, and latitude 46.18. Pelletan's Channel, dividing St. Joseph from the main, is remarkable for fine scenery. Portlock Harbour, a British military position, 1100 miles from Quebec, is an extensive haven, interspersed with rocky islets, and girt by woody hills start- ing forth in a series of verdant or rocky capes. Muddy Lake, bounding the south-west side of St. Joseph's Isle, is a noble sheet of water 17 miles long, and varying from two to seven in breadth ; its shores are deep embayments, ending in grassy marshes, especially on the south-east side. The Michilimackinac, or south-west arm of Lake Huron, leading into Lake Michigan, has only been * This island belongs to the English, and its neighbour, Drummond Isle, to the United States, and on each are small military detachments belonging to their respective govern- ments. PHYSICAL ASPECT. 119 r like an ) occupy Jver, 60 I barren, issalaga, of Lake ;)erior, is at their ; north j crowded St. Jo- through ghlands 3t point I 46.18. 3m the 'ortlock ► miles spersed s start - capes, of St. miles ■eadth ; grassy f Lake y been ;hbour, re small govern- If examined by the engineers of the United States, and their report has not been published. On the side of Michdimackinac (which is eleven miles wide) is the peninsula called False Presquisle. The view into Lake Michigan, from Michilimackinfic Isle, which lies in the strait of that name, midway from either main, is particularly pleading ; the land, which at first closes on the water, at once dilates into a spa- cious sound, with curving shores and woody capes, interspersed in the distance with clusters of islands. The pretty hamlet of St. Ignace, the high white cliffs of Michilimackinac, contrasted with the dark foliage around, and the blue light streaming through the sound from the vast lake beyond, offer a rich field for the lovers of natural scenery. Nothing is worthy of remark down the south-east shore, as far as Thunder Bay and Middle Islands, which are flat, calcareous, and well covered with timber of various kinds. The Gulf of Saguina the English know little about ; from Pont aux Barques to the River St. Clair, is a straight line of beach, with r;ow and then a stiff clay, and, about midway, a large block of white limestone rises from the waters of the lake. On the elevated south-east shore of the lake, in the London district, between 43.10 and 4.3.53 of north latitude, about 4(> miles at its nearest point from the head of Lake Ontario, and 30 miles from the north border of Lake Erie, is situate the fine tract termed the Huron territory, and belonging to the Upper Canada Company. It is of a triangular shape, the base 60 miles in length, resting on Lake . ! ^ \ ; I \ ^ ■•■ i i • / i t i Mi 1*20 THE CANADAS. Huron, and comprising; 1 , l()0,(K)0 acres. At the con- fluence of the River Mnitland with the hike, forming an excellent harbour capable of sheltering vessels of 2()() tons burthen, the Company have laid out the neat and tlourishing town of Goderich. The general stirface of the Huron territory is level, frequently presenting- rich natural meadows. The Rivers Mait- land, au\ SabJes, a large branch of the Thames, and other rivers and streams, water this line district.* Georgiana Bay, a vast arm of Lake Huron on the north-east side, is studded with fine harbours. The principal British naval station, in Lake Hu- ron, is Penetanguishine (latitude 44.57, longitude 75>.35), in the south-east bight of Georgiana liay, within (iloucester harbour ; it is sheltered by hills of sand and rolled blocks. The lake we are now treating of, may be considered the centre of the great chain of waters round it, as it has a direct communication with all. It commu- nicates with Su])erior by St. Mary's River , with Michigan and through it with the lUinois River) by the Straits of Michilimackinac ; with Erie by the River and Lake of St. Clair ; and with Ontario by the Severn River ; Lake Simcoe, a chain of lakes, and the Trent River. It has also two known communications with the Ottawa, — one through Lake Simcoe, and a chain of lakes to the source of * A steam-vessel was built last year at Goderich, to ])ly bc- rween that town and Sandwich, on the Detroit, a distunce of ir>0 miles. CHYSrCAL ASPECT. l'2l the Madawasca, which falls into the Lake of Chats j the other, up French River, through Lake Nipissing', and dc.wn a rapid ri\ er to the Ottawa, near Mataouin. The principal rivers eniptyinpj themselves into Lake Huron are, the Thessalon,Mi&sassaga, French, ISevern. St. Clair, Maitland, and Saguina. The two former, situate in the north-east corner of the lake, are small. French Kiver, which connects Lake Hu- ron with Lake Nipissing, is T"* miles in length, and less resembles one stream than a confusion of rivers, Mowing, with fretpient inosculations, among length- ened ridges f)f rock : its shores seldom present co!i- tinuous lines, but are excavated with deep and nar- row bays, obscured by high walls, rock, and dwarf pines. Its breadth varies, sometimes extending more than one league, and occupied by islands of every possible sha])e. Dr. Bigsby says, that few American pro«»|'ec>s exceed in singularity and grandeur those which are here affordt^d, by groups of long and lofty islets exttmding in giant rays from a centre in some (lark bay, — the clear water reflecting their ruy:ged outlines and wild foliage, amid the solemn stillness perv ding these solitudes. Two cataracts occur in French River, — bv one it leaves Lake Nipissing ; the other is twenty miles below, called the liecolht, where the black crags in the midst of the foaming waters, beset with dead and living pine, impart great beauty lo the scene. There are also several raj)ids ; one, Brisson, com- memorates, by thirteen wooden crosses, an equal number of fatal accidents which occurred in crossing V2'l TUB CANADAS. I: \ i r I '\ the foaming torrent ; the average strength of which, along the whole course of the river, is about two miles per hour. The Saguina River, flowing through a fine and level country, is 180 yards broad for 9.4 miles, when it divides into three small and very circuitous bran- ches, one of which is called Flint River. The Sa- guina is 1^0 miles from Detroit, through the woods, and about 220 by water. The United States are selling the land in its neighbourhood. The Severn River, connecting Lakes Simcoe and Huron, is about .SO miles in length ; and at its mouth, near Penetanguishine, it is one and a quarter mile broad : it has two fidls, and undergoes a descent of 80 feet from Lake Simcoe. The St. Clair, which (according to Dr. Bigsby*) is the only river of discharge for Lakes Superior, Michigan, and Huron, which cover a surface of thirty- eight and a half million of acres, and are fed by nume- rous large rivers, is 300 yards broad at its commence- ment, and flows for twenty-six miles, to its entrance into Lake St. Clair, through a luxuriant alluvial country, with a straight course, and a smooth and equable current of two miles an hour. At its head, there is a rapid, for three quarters of a mile, at five miles per hour ; and it enters Lake St. Clair by a multitude of shallow changeable mouths, but navi- gable for schooners. Lake St. Clair — is scarcely more than an inter- * I differ from this able observer, and am of opinion that the Missouri and Mississippi receive some of the waters of Su- perior and Michigan. vT PHYSICAL ASPECT. 123 -% 4 mediate link between Huron lake and the noble basin of Erie, being connected with the latter by ♦Vi^ Detroit River ; it is of an irregular oval shape, about thirty miles in diameter, and generally shoal, but with a depth of water sufficient for steam-boats and schooners. The shores are low and level, and a group of flat islands, formed by the constant al- hixiai accumulations carried from Lake Huron by the St. Clair River, contracts its surface to the northward. This lake receives two large rivers ; 1 st, the Thames River, (formerly Eiin^re (I la Tranche), which rises north of the township of Blandford, has a serpentine course of 1 50 miles nearly south-west, and discharges itself into Lake St. Clair. It is navigable for large vessels to Chatham (fifteen miles from its embou- chure), and for boats nearly to its source : the bar however at its entrance is someobstacle toniivigation. The Thames winds through a level and highly fertile country, the banks presenting many fine plains and natural meadows. The soil is principally a sandy earth, intermixed with large quantities of loam, and sometimes marl, under which is a substratum of clay ; and the river flats are exceedingly rich, from the allu- vial deposits left after the overflowing of the banks. The oak, maple, pine, beech, and walnut, growing in the vif:inity, are of superior quality. London is situate on the banks of the main branch of the Thames, about ninety miles from its mouth, and in a tolerably central position with regard to the surrounding lakes. Chatham, as already observed, is fifteen miles from its mouth. The Dig Bear River, or " Creek," rises near the i t i « il^ J ' ,' 124 THE CAN ADAS. ;, -i i 1 MM . 4 limits of the Huron tract, and after running ;i course of about one hundred miles generally parallel to the Thames (in one place approaching it within tive miles), it fulls into Lake St. Clair at the mouth of one of its north-east channels. The Detroit River, or rather strait, connects Lake St. Clair with Lake firie, — flowing, after a westerly bend, nearly due S. from the former, broad and deeyj, for 29 miles ; for the greater part of its course the channel is divided by long narrow islands : the largest (Gros Isle, eight miles long) is within the American boundary ; the second (Turkey Island, five miles long) is within the British territory. Isle au Bois Blanc, one and a half mile long, belonging to Upper Canada, is of great importance from its situation, as it divides the channel between Gros Isle and the east bank of the river, leaving the deepest channel to the east, and commands the entrance of the Detroit, which is navigable for vessels of any size employed upon the lakes ; it affords besides, at the British settlement of Amherstburgh, an excellent harbour. Sandwich, another delightful British town, is situate 14 miles from Amherstburgh. The country around is extremely picturesque j the banks high and richly cultivated, the eye everywhere resting on fer- tile fields, well stocked gardens, and orchards, ex- tensive barns and neat fiirm-houses. The most im- portant American town, on the opposite bank, is Detroit, which is a strong military station. During winter the river is completely frozen over. We now arrive at that splendid sheet of water called — ,;1 PHYSICAL ASPECT. l^i^ ining a parallel i within : moutli ts Lake .vesterly id deep, urse the ds : the thin the Island, V. Isle longing from its Iros Isle deepest ance of of Jiny sides, at xcellent h town, country igh and on fer- rds, ex- ost im- )ank, is During f water * i r «i i ftt D . » 126 THE CANADAS. I I , I M i i i 1 1 1 i lleneshowa river, where the cliffs rise 20 yards per- pendicularly above the waters' level, and continue so to the River Huron. Erie, an American town of some extent, with a strong battery, dock-yard, &c'. is to the south-eastward of the lake. About 20 miles along the mouth of the lake, is a tract called the Sugar-loaf Country, from its being diversified with numerous conical hills, which average from 20 to SO feet high composed of sand and clay, and ex- tending several miles. The beach at this part of the lake is covered with huge black rocks, against which the lake beats with incessant roar, and during spring and autumn thick mists often obscure the sky for days. The nortlt shore of Lake Erie, entering on the British territory, is bolder and more elevated than the American shore, of an irregular form, by reason of several capes or j^joints of land. The banks of the lake sometimes rise to the height of 100 feet per- pendicular, consisting of clay and sand, broken and excavated in a thousand diflferent ways by the action of the lake j in some places, large bodies of clay pro- ject 20 or 30 feet beyond the main bank, and lofty trees, from the roots of which the soil has been swept away, appear suspended by a few fibres. During tempests the waters suddenly rise, and beat with great violence against these sand cliffs, cover- ing the beach, and overwhelming boats, &c. The first cape is Point Pele, or South Foreland, on the north-west shore, near Lake St. Clair, the southern- most point of Canada, and indeed of the British do- minions in North America. The next prominence ^>tiin>ini^i< PHYSICAL ASPECT. 1^27 is Point aux Pins (Landguard) whence there is a short westerly route to Chathum, on the Thames. Further east is Long Point, or the North Foreland, a narrow peninsula, stretching e.istward into the lake for about 20 miles, forming a bay on its north- east shore. The line river Ouse, which rises near Lake Huron, in latitude 43. north, and passes by the waters of the Thames, falls into the Lake Erie, after a course of 1(X) miles, still further cast, where the Welland Cmud, (see canals) which joins Erie and Ontario commences. Compared with the other great lakes, Erie, as be- fore observed, is shallow, of rather dangerous navi- gation, on account of the great number of rocks which project for many miles together, from the north shore, with little shelter from storms. A constant current sets down Lake Erie, witli the prevalence of N.W. and ^.W. winds. The princi- pal harbours on the south shore are Buffalo and Dunkirk (New York) j Erie (Pensylvania) ; San- dusky (Ohio) ; besides the harbour at Put-in-]5ay Island. The promontories on the north (Britisli) side af- ford several good harbours and anchorage, during the heavy gales which blov on this lake.* During the ♦ The Kingston Herald notices a most extraordinary occur rence on Lake Eric during a late storm. A channel was made by the violence of the tempest through Long F'oint, N. Fore- land, 300 yards v-ide, and from 11 to 15 feet deep. It had been in contemplation to cut a canal at this very spot, the expenses of which were estimated at £ 12,000. The York Courier confirms this extraordinary intelligence, stating that the storm made a # *■ j i 1 II] •i lA 1'2S THE OANADAS. '* : American war, the belligerents maintuined each a large naval force on this lake : on the 1,'ith Sep- tember a battle was fou4 guns, aided, however, by a nimiber of gunboats, which terminated in the capture of the Eng- lish lleet. Several otlicr hard fought contests took place on this lake, which I pjiss over as incomj)a- tible with the brevity necessary to this work, and proceed to notice the Niagara River, whose fron- tiers* on the American and Canada shores are, per- haps, the most popidous, and best settled of any locations in either country ; a circumstance which accounts for the larger number of vessels (nearly 3CX)), and steam-boats (about 30, besides a number of others connected with them, and running on Dl-- troit river and Lake Michigan), which find a prolit- able employment on Lake Erie. This Lake may i)e regarded as a central reservoir, from which open in all directions the most extensive channels of inland breacli through the point near the main land, converted the pe- ninsuhi into an island, and actually made a canaMOO yards vvid( and eight or ten feet deep, almost at the very [)oint where the proposed canal was to have been cut ; and rendered nothing else now necessary in order to secure a safe channel for vessels and u good harbour on both sides, than the construction of a pier on the west side to prevent the channel from being lilled up with sand. This information had recently been communicated by John Harris, Esq. of Long Point, to Sir John Colbornc, and sent down to the House of Assembly by His Excellency. * I omitted to state in the proper place, that the Britisli side of Lake Erie is thickly settled throughout the fine coun- ties of Oxford and Middlesex. — See the section on Population, \i ~.i»Hf»miipw»Jif »" i'i*U* -""—I >mm PHYSICAL ASPECT. 129 »ed each n I L'ith St'|)- le Knglisli Aiiicricjui number o1" of theEntc- itests took i incomj)a- work, and /hose fron- 's are, ptT- Wd of aii\ ncf which ds (nearly . a immbor ini»- OH De- ll a prolit- ko may be L'h open in < of inland •rtcd the pe- J yards widt t where the nothing else vessels and ii of a pier on led up with unicated hy Iburne, and ency. the British fine couii- Population, navigation to be found in the world ; enabling ves- sels of the lake to traverse the whole interior of the country, to visit the Atlantic at the north or in the south, and collect the products and luxuries of every clime.* Indeed, as expressed in the Buffalo Jour- nal, the map of the entire globe does not present another sheet of water so strikingly peculiar as Lake Erie, commanding, as it does, the navigable waters of North America. From the south a steam- boat has ascended the Alleghany to \\'arren, and a trifling improvement will enable steam-boats from New Orleans to approach within three miles of Portland harbour. From the north, the vessels of Ontario visit Erie, • I may here advert to that justly celebrated American work, the Krie canal, which commencmgat the city of Albany, and terminating at HufTalo in the county of Krie, connects the waters of the Hudson river with those of Lake Krie. It is 3f Huron, miles long, one of its th, lies the le Hudson, 1/$, making •ces ot the ; above the Michigan, Superior, and their thousand tributaries. 'J'he river is thirty-three miles and a half long: in its bends (twenty-eight direct), and traverses a country unrivalled for its richness and fertilitv, on the Ame- rican, .as well as on the British side. When first assuming the character of a river at Fort Erie, it is one mile wide, but soon contracts its bed, at Black Uock to half a mile, and becomes rapid ; but iigain expanding to its original dimensions, it flows on with more gentleness, its general course being from soutii to north. A ferry at Black Uock, when the current is seven railes an hour, offers a sublime prospect of the mighty mass of waters rusiiing from the inland seas, to join their parent ocean. Beyond Black Uock, the river widens to embrace Grand Isle, twelve miles long, and two to seven miles broad, with Square Isle at its head, and Navy Isle* at its foot ; below this, the river resembles a bay, more than two miles in breadth, and then narrow down the rapids to the far famed Falls of Nijigara, which are twenty miles from Lake Erie, the whole of which is navigable, except below Chippewa, where the indrauglkt of the cataract begins to be felt. Niagara Falls. — This celebrated cataract has been so often described, as scarcely to admit of repetition 3 a few words must, however, be devoted to the sub- ject. The Uiver Niagara, previous to arriving at the ledge of limestone rocks (see geological section), * All the islands in the Niagara river have been ceded to the United States, (except Navy Island), by the decision of the commissioners, under the 0th article of the treaty of Ghent. Hi I'i i if^ i ■-.■■m: id' 132 THE CANADAS. ! h ff- over which it is so tremendously precipitated, takes a sudden turn or bend to the north-north-east, its previous course being mostly due west, formint;; what is termed the " Horseshoe Fall," which bend accele- rates the velocity of the rapid. On the New York side of the river, a small islet, termed Goat Island, divides off a portion of the immense stream, and be- yond the island the cataracts on the British Ameri- can side may be said to commence. The Horseshoe Cataract, on the British side, is the largest ; the curvatures of the fall have been geo- metrically computed at 700 yards, and its altitude, taken with a plumb line from the surface of the Ta- ble Rock, 149 feet ; the American fall, narrowed by Goat Island,* does not exceed 375 yards in curvili- near length, (the whole irregular semicircle is nearly three quarters of a mile), its perpendicular height being \62 feet, or 13 feet higher than the top of the Great Fall j adding 57 feet for the fall, the rapids thus give only a total of 219 feet, which is less than many other falls 3 f but their magnificence consists * An enterprising American has constructed a wooden bridge GOO feet in length, from the main bank of the Niagara to Goat Island. The difficulty in constructing this bridge by piles driven in the river, may be estimated from the fact of the flood of waters rushing seven miles an hour over a bed of broken rocks. t The following estimate, by an American writer, shews the height of various falls in diflerent parts of the globe : — Falls of Niagara, width of river three-quarters of a mile ; fall of the rapid 57 feet, grand falls 164, total 221 feet. — The Montmo- rency river, 9 miles below Quebec, 50 feet in breadth, fall 250 feet. — Chaudiere, near the Montmorency, 100 feet. — Missis- sippi, above its junction with the Ohio, 700 feet wide, fails 40 \ ■i^' PHYSICAL ASPECT. 133 in the volume of water precipitated over them, which has been computed at •2,400 millions of tons per day, 102 milUons per hour ! A calcuhition made at Queenstown, below the falls, is as follows : — the river is here half a mile broad, it averages twenty- five feet deep, current three miles an hour ; in one hour it \*!L discharge a column of water three miles long, half a mile wide, and twenty-five feet deep, contain- ing 1,1 1 1,440,000 cubic feet, being 18,524,000 cu- bic feet, or 1 1 3,510,(X)0 'jrallons of u:atfr each mi nut t. The island which divides, and perhaps adds to the sublimity of the falls, is 330 yards wide, and cov ered with vegetation ; the eastern or American l)ank of the river, and the islands thereon, are also low and feet. — Missaurie, .'lOO niilos from its sourcos, rtoscont iii 1 8 miles 3r.tt ftet ; the river is 1000 feet brond ; one cataract is «7 feet, another 47, and ant)ther -H't ; the other 200 fi-et are rapids ; 3<)0 feet. — Passaic, N. Jersey, stream 150 feet wide, falls into a chasm only 1 2 feet hroad, To feet. — Mohawk, at Cahoes, near its junction with the Hudson, fio.— Tuccoa, Ga stream 20 feet wide, 187 feet. — Ache, in Jiavaria ; river falls, if) .'") steps, 200 feet. — Terpiendama, S. America ; the river Bogota, rises in the mountains 'JOOO feet above the level of the sea, and is precipi- tated through various gorges, chasms, and precipi.X's, until it plunges into an immense chasm, tJOO feet. — Nde, at Syene, 40 feet. — Gotlica, in Sweden, fall at Trolhatta loo feet.— I,at- tin, in Swedish Lapland, half a mile wide, falls luo feet. — Ma- amelven, in Norway, as related I)y Mr. Ksmark, falls in three places. — Schaffhaussen, 400 feet wide, falls 70 feet. — Oreo, from Rosa, in Italy, descends in one continued cascade l:iOO feet. — Stauhbach, in Switzerland, a small stream, falls 1400 feet. — Terni, 4.'^ miles north of Rome, the river Velino falls over marble rocks .300 feet. — AtTivoli, IH miles north-east of Rome the Anio, a branch of the Tiber, falls 100 feet. 4 I i i|; i ) 111! -1 ■ ' .^fumr^-i vr * WP«>'»»..» .;Wlii > i * iil HH Olrfh . :f:i^ l.U THE AN ADAS. ; f I ' \ M if. I 1 . r'« ( o\ ered with vegetation, which, with its soft beauty, is in strong contrast to the awful scene beneath ; the west, or British bank, is more bold and lofty, con- sisting of a horizontal ridge of rocky table land along the margin of the rapids, and gradually increasing in elevation from ten to one hundred feet ; at the foot of this ridge, on a level with the summit of the Horseshoe Fall, is the Table Rock, so famous as the «])ot where a very near view of the cataract may be seen ; indeed it forms a section of the ledge over which part of the torrent is precipitated, its flat sur- face jutting out horizontally about fifty feet, and over- hanging the terrific gulf. At the foot of the cataract it is possible but peril- ous to penetrate thirty yards behind the gigantic concave sheet of the headlong flood, where a cavern is formed about 150 feet in height, 50 in breadth, and 300 in length, fit only for the habitation of its present tenants — the eel and the water snake. This dangerous chasm* below the falls is considered the best place for estimating the height of Niagara— that vast volume of water which four great lakes,* * The perilous path lies along the slippery margin of storm- ing eddies, beneath impending rocks, and amidst th€ jarring elements ; thus requiring great self-possession in making the attempt, for one false step, or the least giddiness, may plunge the adventurer into the whirling and boiling vortex of the falls ; a danger the more imminent because the path leads over sharp, broken, and excessively slippery rocks, on which it is extremely difficult to retain a footing, owing to the perpetual mossy mois- ture they imbibe from the oozing crevices of the superincum- bent cliffs. li'V^^^^ttlrt^'i PHYSICAL ASPECT. i3ri the least of which is l,'20O miles in compass, pour forth to the ocean, — and the irresistible force with which this mighty mass foams and boils when rush- inc^ from the precipice. Here also may best be wit- nessed the beautiful ]>lay of the prismatic colours, as they form with the clouds of rising spray, — and the snow-white billows as they are rolled out by the meet- ing of the waters. This is also the most advantage- ous situation for listening to the awful roar sent up from the deep abyss, when even the solid rocks have imparted to them an apparent trembling and quiver- ing motion. But from the Table rock above, is the most sublime and beautiful spectacle ;t here may be viewed the first ripple that marks the increasing rapidity of the • The total area of the four lakes is 100,000 square miles ! f The spectator may hc>re approach so near that, if he pos- sesses nerve enough, he may, by lying prostrate on the rock, and stretching forth his arm, move his hand in the dread tor- rent ; but it is a fearful experiment, owing to the bewildering noise and view of the cataract. Some persons have described the effect of such situations to be in many cases a desire to pre- cipitate oneself from the height. The statement is correct. I myself felt this sensation when crossing the mountain torrents in India, on the slender rope or vine bridges which the natives construct ; and on ascending to the narrow height of La Pouse, in the Isle of France, (a less hazardous experiment than Lieutenant Taylor and others lately performed,) with Lieute- nants Fetherston, Clarke, &c., I should most probably have precipitated myself from this vast height, but for the exertions of my brother officers. Subsequently again I felt this horrid inclination when I rode to the top of Table Mountain, at the Cape of Good Hope, and sitting on horseback, looked down from a height of 4,000 feet ou the apparently mimic capital of Southern Africa. r I I . i ■ i t I I 30- TUB CANADAS. Niagara, the eye of the spectator following it down- wards as its impetuosity increases, and its waves roll on their crested curls ; then again when they no longer roll but rush in a loud roar of broken wild confusion, and next unite in a sheet of transparent emerald green, plunging into the gulf and rising again in infinitely divided spray, floating gossamer like in mid air. How beautifully does Byron depict such a scene when adverting to the far lesser fall of Velino.* The roar of waters ! — from the headlong height Volino cleaves the wave-worn precipice ; The fall of waters ! rapid as the light, The flashing mass foams shaking the abyss : The hell of waters ! where they howl and hiss, And boil in endless torture ; while the sweat Of their great agony, wrung out from this Their Phlegethon, curls round the rocks of jet That gird th gulf around, in pitiless horror set, And mounts in spray the skies, and thence again Returns in an unceasing shower, which round, With its unemptied cloud of gentle rain. Is an eternal April to the ground, Making it all one emerald : how profound The gulf ! and how the giant element From rock to rock leaps with delirious bound, Crushing the cliffs, which, downward worn and rent With his tierce footsteps, yield in chasms a fearful vent To the broad column which rolls on, and shows More like the fountain of an infant sea Torn from the womb of mountains by the throes Of a new world, than only thus to be ' * Childc Harold, canto iv. stanzas fi'j, 70, 71, and 72, [.jJutiwi-i^Ulr,-.. PHYSICAL ASPECT. 1.37 Parent of rivers, which flow gushingly, With many windings, tiirough the vale : — Look back ! Lo ! where it comes like an eternity, As if to sweep down all things in its track, ("harming the eye with dread, — a matchless cataract, Horrihly beautiful ! but on the verge From side to side, beneath the glittering mom, An Iris sits,* amidst the infernal surge, Like Hope upon a death-bed, and, unworn " Its steady dyes, while all around is torn liy the distractid waters, bears serene , Its brilliant hues with all their beams unshorn : Resembling, 'mid the torture of the scene, Love watching Madness with unalterable mien. The splendour of this extraordinary scene is en- hanced by the simple view of the wild duck, and other water fowl, swimming down the rapids to the brink of the precipice, then flying out and repeating the de- scent with apparent delight, — while above, the blue bird and the wren, in their annual visit toNi{igara,take pleasure in flying within one or two feet of the brink, and sport over the frightful fall with evident Imppiness ; now verging on the crystal stream that flows over the precipice, then dipping a wing in the bright green * Colonel Bouchette (who wrote after Lord Byron) oh- ser\'es that, according to the altitude of the sun, and the situa- tion of the spectator, a distinct and bright Iris is seen amidst the revolving columns of mist that soar from the foaming chasm and shroud the broad front of the gigantic flood ; both arches of the bow are seldom entirely elicited, but the in- terior segment is perfect, and its prismatic hues are extremely glowing and vivid ; the fragments of a plurality of rainbows are sometimes to be seen in various parts of the misty curtain. I 1 11 r * i, I ■' i 1 f I- las THE CANADAS. \ i wave, and then skimming swiftly along its surface : — who would not wish €T,t such a moment for the wings of a bird ? The sound of the falls is audible at va- rif lus distances according to the state of the air, and the wind ; it has been clearly discernible at Buffalo, eighteen miles distant, and some say the noise has been distinctly heard at Toronto, on the opposite shore of Lake Ontario, a distance of forty-six miles. It is difficult to convey an idea of the extraordinary roar of the Niagara, it being f^n alternation of open and muffled sounds, likened by some to the hoarse voice of ocean surges heavily lashing the shore, — by others to the plunging dash of huge spherical rocks hurled in quick and ceaseless succession from a precipice of great altitude into profound waters — and among many other similitudes, its roaring, rum- bling, thundering noise is thought to approximate most to the pealing artillery of two large squadrons at sea in thick wec^ther, the auditor being about five miles distant, such as mav have been heard on the heights of Aboukir, when the fleets of Nelson and Brueys sent the reverberating echo of their dread hostilities along the Nile. But it is time to proceed towards the Lake of a thousand isles;* — a little below the falls, the Niagara resumes its wonted soft beauty, and the spectator crossing the ferry has, on looking upwards, a splen- did view of the semi-circle cataracts to the extent of * A city is projected to be built adjoining the Niagara cata- ract on the British side ; and the plan in shares is laid down for the purpose. i: ■r fe ' PV ^o.j,W«fffc^^» ' ? PHYSICAL ASPECT. 130 urface: — the wings ble at va- le air, and It Buffalo, noise has opposite six miles, aordinary n of open le hoarse shore, — spherical iion from waters — ing, rum- Toximate quadrons ibout five 'd on the [son and sir dread ake of a Niagara pectator a splen- jxtent of ^a cata- laid down 3000 foot, whence the vast floods of the great Ameri- can lakes burst with a stupendous force, as if the floodgsites of heaven were opening to deluge the earth, while onward flows the calm Niiigara to Ontai'o, a distance of 13 miles. On reaching Queenston * seven miles from the falls (Upper Canada side) the face of the country suddenly alters, and rises into ab- rupt and elevated ridges, supposed to have been the hanks of the river in former ages.f ♦ It was here the gallant and much beloved General Brock was killed in the campaign of 1812, when nobly leading a tew troops against a much superior force up the Queenston heights. t x\bout four miles above Queenston, is a smgular [)art of the Niagara river called the whirlpool, the mouth ot which is more than 1,000 feet wide, and in length about 2,000. Mr. Howison, in his interesting sketches of Upper Canada, .says, that the current of the river has formed a circular excavation in llic high and perpendicular banks, resembling a bay. The current, which is extremely rapid, whenever it roaches the upper pomt of this bay, forsakes the direct channel, and sweeps wildly round the sides of it ; when, having made this extraordinary circuit, it regains its proper course, and rushes with perturbed velocity between two jierpendicular precipices, which are not more than 400 feet asunder. The surface of the whirlpool is in a state of continual agitation. The water boils, mantles up, and wreathes, in a manner that proves its fearful dej>th and the confinement it suffers; the trees that come within the sphere of the current, are swept along with a quivering zig-zag motion which it is difficu,lt to describe. This singular body of water must be several hundred feet deep, and has not hitherto been frozen over, although in sj)ring the broken ice that descends from Lake Erie collects in such quantities upon its surface, and becomes so closely wedged together, that it resists the current, and re- mains till warm weather breaks it up. The whirlpool is one of the greatest natural curiosities in the Upper Province, and is the more interesting to the mind, as its formation cannot be rationally accounted for. -jddm ^jl^f^^^^glllg^l^^^liijai^ I " ■i»i*iii j |» im «iiii >r.] ' j'j . .«' A"' 140 THE CAN ADAS. li. Fort Gfoifre, or Niagara, or Newark, formerly the seat of (ioveriiment, (distant from Toronto, round the head of Lake Ontario, .about 40 miles) is situate upon a rising- ground on thi' west bank of the lliver Niagara, within a mile of the angle formed by the river and the lake, protecting on our side the western boundary of the Niagara frontier ;* it was the scene of a severe contest in 1818, in which tlie Americans, with a superior and well combined naval and land armament, were victorious. The Niagara River enters Lake Ontario in lati- tude north 43.15.30, longitude 71) .00.40 ; the differ- ence of height between its elilux and aftlux being 334 feetf on a distance of thirty-six and a half miles. LaivK Ontario — the last in chain, and the most easterly of the great inland American seas (which may well be considered the wonder and admiration of the world), lying east and west, and nearly half of which is in the state of New York, is situate between the parallels 43.10 and 44.11 north latitude, and the meridans of 76-25 and 79.56 west longitude ; in form * From Fort George along the Niagara river to Qiieenston, a distance of eight miles, there is a considerable elevation of the land on either side of the river, extei\ding both K. and W. about fourteen miles. The land rises for ten miles further to Chip- pewa, but the river is only navigable for large vessels as far as Quecnston, where it is about 200 yards broad ; from thence to the falls it seldom exceeds fifty or sixty yards in width. t Thus — difference of elevation between Lake Erie and the head of the rapids (distance 23 miles) 15 feet ; thence to the foot of the rapids (half a mile), d1 feet ; height of the great fall on the American side 162 feet from the base of the falls to Queenston (distance 13 miles), 104 feet; and from Queenston to Lake Ontario, 2 feet — total, 3.34 feet. - i w ». «» y y» ir«- i i i ):) ( H I ]mi »f »it» I H < -Aui it* i .tn\ilv yt , v- ^rrtj^rtt -■ i ii»< w'«?i i»«. < i r ii.f i'» »« . -M' - r ri . PHYSICAL ASPECT. 141 elliptical, and meiisurinj;- I72 miles on a central line drawn from its south -west to its north-east extremity; in its greatest breadth 5<) miles,* medial 40, and about 4^)7 miles in circumference ; the average depth isabout 5(K) feet, consequently considerably below the level of the Atlantic Ocean, its surface being only '231 feet above the tide waters at Three Rivers, on the St. Lawrence, and at Albany, on the Hudson. Ac- cording to some examinations, the depth varies very much, there bving seldom less than three or more than fifty fathoms, except in the middle, where there liJivc been no soundings at a depth of 3(K) fathoms. The shores of Ontario are generally covered with gravel, consisting principally of small thin pieces of limestone, worn round and smooth by the motion of the water ; this gravel is washed on the beach in long ridges, sometimes several miles in extent, and when consolidated with the clayey soil which genertJly abounds along the shore, it is not moveable vmder the feet,— hence it becomes an excellent material for the formation of roads. In some places, the beach of Ontario appears to be a horizontal stratum of lime- stone ; but it consists of this gravel when level, hav- ing its interstices filled with the finer particles of the limestone washed off by fri(;tion, which thus connects the whole, occasionally enclosing muscle-shells and decayed substances. The water of Ontario, like that * The breadth, as will be observed by the map, varies, — from Toronto (York) to Niagara, it is 35 miles, from Presque Isle to Genesse River, 60 miles, — from Ernest town to Oswego, 55 miles ; and from Kingston to Sacket's Harbour, round tiie head of Wolf or Grand Island, 36 miles. i 1 \ ■ f i. K 142 THE CANADAS. of the Other lakes, and of the St. Lawrence River, is limpid and pure, except when mixed with parti- cles of earth from the shores, hy the agitation of the winds, (those of the Ohio and Mississippi are turbid, like the Ganges and Orinoco) j the water of Ontario is used for drink, and also for washing, though it is not so suitable for the solution of soap as rain water. For a few days in June, the water near the shores is annually covered with a yellowish scum, rendering- it unfit for culinary or other purposes : the cause of this phenomenon is unknown. During the height of summer, the shore- water is too warm for pleasant drinking, unless kept some hours in a cool cellar. Gales of wind, on this lake, are frequent, and attended with an unpleasant 'sea.* Every seven years the waters of the hdce rise to an unusual height, of which phenomenon no satisfactory account has as yet been given. The refractions which take place on Ontario, in calm weather, are exceedingly beautiful — islands and trees appear turned upside down — the white surf of the beach is translated aloft, and seems like the smoke of artillery blazing away from a fort — large fountains of water seem to swell upon the horizon, and at times the spectator appears in the midst of a splendid ewer, which pours water around to the depth of 20 feet. The physical aspect of the shores of i)ntario ex- hibits great diversity, — towards the north-east they aie low, with swampy marshes, — to the north and north-west, the banks assume a bold appearance, — which again subside to almost a plain on the southern or American sliore ; but well reheved, in the back • ' Ktf f i < f Wi j i «j ' > »j ri i ;.' ff'i j tf^^ l ^ w-- PHYSICAL ASPKCT. 143 ground, by a ridge of hills, that, after forming the precipice for the Niagara Cataract, stretches away to the eastward. The country bordering the lake is well wooded, and throujrh the numerous openings, the prospect is enlivened by flourishing settlements ; the view being extremely picturesque along the white cliffs of Toronto, heightened by the remarkable high land over Presqu'ile, called the Devil's nose, on the north. A ridge of high land runs from the Bay of Quintc, on the north-west of the lake, along the northern shores of Ontari*) to the westward, at a distance, in some places, of not more than nine miles (as at Hamilton), and dividing the numerous streams and head waters falling into that lake from those de- scending north into the River Trent, Rice Lake, Otanabee River, and the contiguous chain of lakes. At Toronto (York) this ridge recedes north-east from the lake to the distance of 2 \ miles, separating the waters of Holland River, and other streams fal- ling into Lake Huron and Simeoe, from those dis- charging themselves into the Ontario. The ridge thence bending round the heads of the Toronto River, and its tributary streams, dividing them from those of the Grand or Ouse River, pursues a south- eastwardly direction towards the head of the lake, merges in the Burlington Heights, and runs along the shores of Burlington Bay, and the south-west side of Lake Ontario (at a distance of from four to eight miles), to Queenston Heights ; tlie direction is still eastward until it stretches into the territory of the United States, to Lockport on Erie Canal (twelve miles from Lake Ontario), which it crosses rt:-^f %V^F * t **^-- I i ' f i] ?!4 ]M THE CANADAS. and with which it runs parallel, until it arrives at Rochester, on the Gencsse banks, where it sub- sides;"* thus, as it were, forming the shores of thi- original basin of the lake, as far as regards the greater part of its northern and southefn boundary. Many tributaricsf flow into Lake Ontario, — which receives, from the state of New York, the llivcrs Niagara, Genesse, Oswego, and Black Hiver, besides many smaller streams. Among its bfiys, on the same side, are, Chaumont, Sodees (Great and Little), Toronto, and Ikaddocks. The principal river on the North British shore is the Trent, which issuing out of Rice Lake,| after a very winding course of 100 miles, falls into the liay * The riilge on the American side of Lake Ontario is called the Riitj^f Road, or Alluvial Way ; it extends 87 miles from Ro- chester, on the Genesse, to I.ewiston, on the Niagara, and is composed of common heach sand and gravel stones, worn smooth, intermixed with small shells ; its t^encral width is from four to eight md.i, and it is raised in the middle with a handsome crowning arch, from six to ten feet. At the Rivers Genesse and Niagara its ele\ati()n is about 130 feet, which is the elevation above Lake Ontario, from which it is distant from six to ten miles; there is a regular and gradual descent from the road to the lake. The only way of accounting for the ridge is by supposing Lake Ontario to have been 130 feet higher than it is at present ; if this be the fact, Ontario and Erie must have formed one lake, — but then, as the Americans observe, a similar ridge exists on the south side of Lake Erie for I'-'O miles. The natural " Ridge Road" of New York is the best in the state. t Almost every river has a sand bar across its entrance. I Rk'p Lake, in the district of Newcastle, about 15 miles from Lake Ontario, and lying nearly S.W. and N.E., is 25 miles long by 5 wide. Its name is derived from the wild rice grov.- ing on its margin and surrounding marshes. PHYSICAL ASPECT. u.-) of Quinto, near the village of Sidney. The Otaiui- bee, which falls into th«' nortli shore of Rice Lake, may be considered a continuation (»f llic Trent River ; of which the Rice lAikv is merely an expansion, us is so often the case in the American rivers. The Otanahee, like tlie 'J>cnt, is a broad and full river, — and, both are navie;able for boat>. From its source in Trout Lake, it communicates bv a chain of lakes with Lake Simeoe,* through which it is proposed to open a canal communication between Lakes Huron and Ontario. Several navigable! bays occur on both sides of the • Sintcoe Ldkf — in Home district, ht'twccn l.nki's Hurnn and Ontario, vith an area of .'<()(» s({uar(' miles, is thf most exten- sive interior lake of Upper Canada; the elevation of its sur- face (estimated by the height of the frequent falls and cascades by which its outlet is broken j is iOO feet above the level of l>ake Huron, and, therefore, much hii;lur than either Krie or Ontario. It is proposed to connect Simcoe with Huron and On- tario Lakes by canals ; which, however, would require frerjuent lockage, though the distance is comparativelj small The lands in the vicinity of Lake Simcoe are reinai kably fine ; and f.om the depth of soil, and equality of the siirface, peculiarly easy of cultivation t The canoes which navigate the Canadian lakes have been thus described b) Mr. Gould, in a paper with wUich he has favoured me : — " The canoes are among the most ingenious and most use- ful of the Indian manufactures ; and nothing that Euro|)ean ingenuity has devised, is so well adapted to the habits and the necessities of their mode of life ; they are made of the bark of the birch tree, — and of all the various contrivances for trans- porting burthens by water, these vessels are the most extraor- dinary. From the slightness of their construction, they would appear to be totally inadequate to contend against the rapids VOL. 1. L i I ■M^' t : I s' 116 THE C AX ADAS. Lake, particularly on the liritish shore, where Quinto and Burlington bays stand conspicuous ; the coni- modiousness of the latter (in the S.W. angle of the Lake) was impaired by a sand bank — but this dis- jjdvantage is now remedied by a canal, which renders this safe and capacious bay highly valuable j the former is secure, but its navigation rather intricate, owing to the windings and indentations of the shore of Prince Edward I'eninsula, by which it is fronted, together with many islands which are clustered at the end of the lake, dividing its extremity into several channels.* they are continually exposed to ; they are of various lengths, from l:i to 30 feet, (thf latter used only by the Hudson Bay Company) their breadth from four to six feet, diminishing to a point at each end, without distinction. The exterior is the liark of the birch tree, scarcely the eighth part of an inch in thickness ; it is kept distended by thin hoops of white cedar, or other li^ht elastic wood, and very thin shingles, as an inside lining, are placed between the hoops and the bark ; the gun- wale is a narr(jw lathe, to which the hoop and the bark are sewed with narrow strips of thi; roots of the white cedar tree ; and the joinings in the bark are rendered waterproof by a 8i)t!cies of gum, said to be collected from the wild cherry tree, which soon becomes perfectly liard ; no iron work or nails an' employed in their construction, and they are so light that the common sized oius are easily carried, for several miles, by a man of moderate strength ; they are worked by paddles over the sides, and the dexterity of the Indians, in working them, is surprising : they, of course, push them forward, and not backward, as in the operation of rowing. The iargest de- scription will carry about five tons of merchandize, besides eight or ten men." * Stoney and Grenadier islands are at the east end of On- tario ; Wolfe, or Grand Island, is at tho entrance of the St. Lawrence; and the celebrated T'lousaml islands are just below % JMIYSICAL ASPKCT. 147 Of the harbours, the most considerable, on the Ame- rican side, is Sackets Harbour on the S.K. shore, whicli is an excellent haven, well fortified, with ex- tensive arsenals and excellent docks for the construc- tion of the largest sized ships (»f war,* On the Knglish side, Toronto (until lately called York) and Kingston are the principal , of the^e it will be neces- sary, before proceeding- farther, to (»fFer a bri"f de- scription ;1 the, rather, as the former is th<* metro- politan city of lJ})per Canada. Toronto,! (Latitude 1 i..U.» N. Lonj^itude 70.:i(} \V.) the infant capital of Upper ( anada, is delif:::ht- fuUy siruate in tlic townshii) of \'()rk, near the head \\'olf£', or Grand Island, — vvhii-h, by being jiiaced at \hv cr-in- menccnient of the Cataraqui (Iroquois, or St. Lawrtiice,! River, forms two channels loading into Kirii^iton llarbonr, bearing the names of the North, or Kingston Cbainifl, and the South, or Carieton Island (Channel. * One of the three-decker .snips of war, budt ben; by the Americans during the war, was '.62 feet H inches keel, 212 feet on the lower gun deck, and 2 feet beam ; thus the largest vessel lif war was constructed on a fresh water lake SOO sjup- wrights were employed 42 days in running up this immense vessel. At Ernest Town a steam-boat of l.'>0 feet keel, and, of course, about 170 feet deck, was built some years ago. t I'resque Isle or Newcastli' Harbour, in the township of Grahame, is situate Sf)mewbat mort than half way from To- ronto to Kingston ; it is well protected from winds, and al- most encircled by a pennisula, which projects in a curve into till' lake, forming a bnsni of sufficient depth for shipping, and affording gocnl landing. The liarbour is somewhat dithcult of entrance. From Newcastle, eastward, the shore of Ontario is indented witli bays and points of various sizes. 4 York the former name, was recently changed to the original Indian name of the place, Toronto. t 148 THE CAXADAS. of Lake Ontario, on the north side of an excellent harbour or elliptical basin of an area of eight or nine miles, formed by a long, low sandy peninsula or ishmd, stretchint^ from the land east of the town to Gibr.iltar Point, abreast of a good fort.* The town is laid out at right angles, with long and spacious streets, (King Street, the great thorough- fare is half a mile long), the side paths well flagged, and some of the streets macadamised. It contains the principal buildings and jmblic offices of the pro- vince, viz. : the Parliament House and Government offices, (iovernment House, the College of Upper Canada, the Hospital, Court House, Gaol, Episcopa- lian, Presbyterian and Roman places of worship, and several Meeting Houses, the Upper Canada Bank, Law Society Hall, the Barracks, ^c. The popula- tion is now about ll,iX)0,t composed of English, Irish, Scotch, native Upper Canadians, and a very few French Canadians. Little more tlian thirty years * The formation of the peninsula is extraordinary, which in- deed would ai)|aar to have heen a spot left dry at no distant date. In some places it is not mflre than 60 yards in breadth, but widening at the extremity to nearly a mile wide, and rnay be said to be a sand-bank slightly overgrown with grass, — the largest part intersected with extensive ponds, the constant re- sort of wild fowl. The east part of the harbour is bovmded by an extensive marsh, through the north part of which the River Don runs. The soundings, in Toronto Harbour, are from two to four fathoms, mud and clay : it is secure in all storms, and a good light- house, 70 feet in elevation, at the western extremity of the beach, renders it a welcome haven to the midnight mariner. t Official return of the population of the City and Liber- ...**rt^««ii»w— -**»■ PHYSICAL ASPKCr. H9 ago, the site, whereon Toronto now stands, and the whole country to the north and west of it, was a perfect wilderness — the land is now fast clearing — thickly settled by a robust and industrious Euro- pean and European descended populaticm, blessed with health and competence, and on all sides indicat- ing the rapid progress of civilization.* The other British town of importance on this shore is — Kingston, (distant from Toronto, 184 and from Montreal 180 miles) in Lat. 4 4.8. Long. 7G.4(). W. is advantageously situate on the north bank of Lake Ontario at the head of the river St, Lawrence, and k separated from Points Frederick and Henry, by a tics of Toronto, taken by the assessors in May and June, 1834. Wards. I Males F'emales under 16. under If), Males over 1*'). St, St, St, St, St, David's .i Lavrence's Andrew's . Patrick's . George's . Females Grand over 16. Total. 'Jo 'J 33:>4 r.-)4 l'J22 4f*:y 17 18 3I«7 14«;2 22H 7u; 20,2-4 •>24K Total To these numbers may be added strangers, emigrants, omis- sions, casual residents, tenants of tlie pri-<(in, and the soldiers in garrison, in all upwards of l>. The appearance of the north-east extremity of Ontario, at its junction with the St. Lawrence river at Kingston, is exceedingly beautiful, and it has ob- tained the poetical appellation of the ' Lake of the Thousand Isles.' As the St. Lawrence issues from * The number ol' steam-boats, on the Ontario Lake, is considerable; there are eight American, and twelve British steam-vessels employed on it in traffic and tor passengers. During the winter the N.E. part of Ontario, tVcm the Bay of Quinte to Sackets Harbour, is frozen across ; but The wider part of the lake is frozen cmly to a short distance from the shore. Lake Erie is frozen still less ; the northern parts of Huron and Michigan more ; and Superior is said to he frozen to a distance of 70 miles from ith coasts. The naviga- tion of Ontario closes in October ; ice-boats are sometimes used when the ice is <:;larf' (smooth). One mentioned by Lt. De Roos, was 2.3 feet in lerjgth, restina; on three skates of iron, one attached to each end of a strong crossbar, fixed under the fore i)art, — the remaining one to the stern, from the bottom of the rudder, — tlie mast and sail those of a common boat: when brought into play on the ice, '^he could sail 'if it may be so termed) , with fearful rapidity, nearly 23 miles an hour. One has been known to cross from Toronto to Fort George, or Niagara, a distance of 40 miles, in little more than three-cjuarters of an hour; but, m addition to hei speed before the wind, she is also capable of beating well up to windward, — requiring, however, an experienced haml to manage her, in conseipience of tae extreme sensibility of the rudder during her quick motion. I-.- r J 52 THE CANADAS. Ontario, it is twelve miles wide, divided into two channels by Wolfe or Grand, or Long Island, w-hich is seven miles broad, and the widest channel on the . north side three miles and a half across. The second British township is Leeds, 3^ miles below Kingston (at the mouth of the Gannano- qui river) which has an excellent harbour : the river continues narrowing down to Prescott, distant (i2 miles from Kingston, 243 from Toronto, and 385 from Quebec. Prescott is well defined by its strong hold, Fort Wellington, which commands the river's navigation. A few miles below Prescott the rapids of the St. Lawrence commence ; and from thence to Montreal the river is navigable only for boats, rafts, &c. and even then with no inconsiderable danger : the most difficult to pass is the Long Sault, in front of Os- naburgh above Cornwall ( 46 miles from Mon- treal) 3 it is about nine miles long, and intersected by several islands, through whose channels the water rushes with great vel' city, so that boats are carried through it, or on it, at the rate of 27 miles an hour : at the foot of the Rapid, the water takes a sudden leap over a slight precipice, whence its name. The rapids at the Cedars at La Chine, on ap- proaching Montreal are not less dangerous, but the skill of the Canadian boatmen enables them in ge- neral to pass these formidable torrents with safety.* * The statements laid before Parliament thus enumerate and describe the five rapids of the St. Lawrence, which arc impass- .*, .«*«..„-»^.»-- ^-'••W-v-o PHYSICAL ASPECT. i:)3 Having now given the reader a connected descrip- tion of the principal physical features of Upper Canada, I mean its great lakes and rivers,* I shall, before passing to another section, allude briefly to its canals, which have given rise to so much conversa- tion and debate in the Old World. TheRiDKAU Canal. — This far-famed undertaking, which is not, properly speaking, a catial, but rather a succession of raised waters by means of dams, able by steam, and occur between Montreal and Kingston, a dis- tance, by the St. Lawrence River, of 1 7 I miles, and by the llidcaii Canal (via St. Ann's) 2(J7 miles. The rapids vary in rajjidity, in- tricacy, depth, and width of channel, — and in extent from half a mile to nine miles. The Cedar Rapid, 24 miles from LnChin>-, is nine miles long, very intricate, running from nine to twelve miles an hour, and in some places only from niii'. to ten feet water in the channel. The Coteau du Liv linjud six miles above the former, is two miles long, ecpially intricate in the channel, and in some places only sixteen feet wide. Lon^ SauU, Ab miles above the preceding, is nine or ten miles long, with generally the same depth of water throughout. From thence to Prescott is 41 miles of shoal water running froni six to eight miles an hour, and impassable by steam-boats. Then the Rapid Dii Plus, half a mile long, and Rapid (Juloosf, one and half a mile long, intervene. It has been suggested, that a navigable channel should be made through these rapids, between Montreal and Prescott, so as to admit all those ships which now discharge their cargoes at Quebec and Montreal ; the difficulties would be great, but they are not insurmount- able ; and the estimated cost is £1,500, 000, which it is thought a private company wo' !d undertake, with the prospect of repayment from tolls. Tlie Erie Canal cost about "J, 000,000 dollars, and it now yields an annual income of more than 1,000,000 dollars. * 1 do not here allude to the Ottawa, which has been given under the description of the Lower Province. i 1 1 1 . t 1 i t \' ! .. i 1 I ', l.M THE CAN' ADAS. with natural lakes intervening, c(3mmences at En- trance Bay, a small bay in the Ottawa, 158 miles from Montreal, and 150 from Kingston, in latitude north 45.30, lonf^itude west 7^-50, — about a mile below the Falls of Chandiere, and one mile and a half above the point where the Rideau River falls into the Ottawa. "From Entrance Ray the canal is entered by eight Itxks ; it then passes through a natural gully, crosses Dow's Swamp — which is flooded by means of a mound — crosses Peter's gully by means of an aqueduct, and joins the Rideau River at the Hog's Back, about six miles from Entrance Bay. At the Hog's back there is a dam 45 feet high, and 4CX) long, which, by throwing back the river, converts about seven miles of rajiids into still, navigable water. The canal rises into the river by means of a lock. A series of locks and dams now commences, with occasional em- bankments. There are a dam and lock .at the Black Rapids, 138 miles from Montreal ; a dam, three locks, and two embankments, at Long Island Rapids, which render the river navigable for twenty-four miles, to Barret's Rapids, 167 miles from Montreal; eight dams and fourteen locks bring the canal to Olive's Ferry, 210 miles from Montreal, where the Rideau Lake contracts to 463 feet wide, and a ferry con- nects the road between Perth and Bro'^kviiie. At the Upper Narrows, 16 miles further, the Ri- deau Lake contracts again to about 30 feet across, over which a dam is thrown, with a lock of four feet lift, forming the Upper Rideau Lake into PlIYSUAL ASPKCT. 155 ix summit pond of '291 feet above Phitrancc Bay, in the Ottawa ; six miles fiutiier is the isthmus, whicii separates the Upper Ilideau Lake from Miid I^ake, the source of the River Cataracjui. The canal is cut through this isthmus, which is one mile and a half wide J five miles lower down, is the Isthmus Clear Lake, S30 feet wide, throui.;h which a cut is made, to avoid the ra))ids of the natural channel. To Cranberry Marsh, 17 miles from Isthmus Clear Lake, 255 miles from Montreal, and '23 from Kings- ton, there are three dams and six locks. The Marsh is about 78 ft'ct above the level of Khigston Harbour, and about eight miles long. Besides flowing into the Cataraqui Hivcr, the waters of this marsh or lake burst out at White Fish Fall, and flow into the Gananoqui River, which is tlie waste weir for regulating the level of the water in the Rideau Lake (the summit pond) ; thus the water in the whole line of canal, whether in times of flood or drought, is kept at a steady height. At Brewer's Upper and Lower Mills, 18 and 17 miles from Kingston, there are three dams and three locks ; and at Kingston Mills, five miles from Kingston, one dam and four locks. The Canal, or Cataraqui River, falls into Kingston Bay at these mills, at a distance from Montreal of 273 miles. The canal now described opens, it will be per- cei\ ed, a water communication between Kingston and the Ottawa, a distance of 132 miles, by connect- ing together several pieces of water lying in that direction, viz., Kingston Mill-stream, Cranberry ■ti •'.)*f,'rmit^i'^^K'-t)r 156 TUK CAXAUAH. Lake, MuJ Luke, Rideau Lake and River, the length of the cuts not exceeding 20 miles. The difference of level is 445 feet ; about 20 miles are excavated, some through rocks. There are 47 locks, which arc in length 142 feet, in breadth 33, and with a water deptli of five feet, which admit vessels under 125 tons. There- was either sad blun- dering in the estimate, or gross mismanagement in the expenditure on this canal, the original estimate for which was but £lG9,i)(X), — the next estimate, before the plan of enlarging the locks was adopted,* amounted to £4H6,iX)0, the addition of the locks raised the estimate to i,*762,673 ; but it may now be stated, that the total expenditure will not be short of one million sterling. The canal is certainly a noble piece of work, though completed at a heavy cost, which I fear there is little probability of its repaying, unless in the event of a war with the United States j a contingency which suggested the propriety of cutting, or rather making, the Rideau, in order that the water communication between Upper and Lower Canada might be beyond the controul of the Americans, who possess half the River St. Lawrence, down to the parallel of 45., as well as half of the Great Lakes, and by the posses- sion of Barnhart's Island, in the JSt. Lawrence, com- i * The locks were originally planned upon a scale to corres- pond with those on La Chine Canal, i. e. 100 feet by JO ; these dimensions were subse(iuently increased to 142 feet in length by 33 in width, with a depth of live feet water; hence a con- siderable augmentation of expense. PIIYSICAL ASPECT. r-.r Uyl pletoly rommandthe navij^ation of the river between the two provinces. * Should the jirojoct now on foot of improving the navij:;ation over the rapids between INIontreai .in in the country ; now tlie canal drains 30(K) square miles, — and the settlements, in the vi- cinity of the canal, have a population of upwards of ^20,(X)0. The Wellaxd Canal, connects Lake Erie with Lake Ontario. It was not undertaken by govern- ment, but by a company incorporated by the Legisla- ture in 18':i.5. The canal communicates with Lake Ontario by the Twelve-mile Creek, and is conducted over the range of hills forming the barrier of Lake Erie, at the Falls of Niagara, by means of locks, until it meets the Chipi)awa at eight miles and a half from its mouth j it ascends the Chippawa about eleven miles, joins the Ouse upon Lake Erie at . it * The tolls on the Rideau and Ottawn belong to Government, t The Americans have set up a claim to the free navigation of the St. Lawrence, from the lakes to the ocean. a , .».»tM, tf i|, n itt ^ i H ,ii | , . i ^.^Mt»«*« tfii » r il«i »» t l » h'y i 1 ll |i |»llli lt|nfll M MW feet, and its depth 8-' : the summit le\el is 3.'i() feet, the ascending h)cks are 3* in n«i,.;ber, (made of wood) 2^ feet wide, and ICK) feet long. The cost of this canal has been, so far as we can yet esti- mate, upwards of X'.'OO.fUH) ; biit I should think on Lake Eric and Huron shores, there is little doubt thar as the population encreases a fair return will be yielded for the capital expended. 'J'he GiiiiwiLM-. Canai. consists of three sections, one at the Long Sault on the Ottawa — another at the fall called the ChCite a Hlondeau, (H) miles from Montreal and '218 from Kingston — and a third at the Carillon Kapids, ;")(• mih-vs from Montreal and '^^'i from Kingston, o])ening' into the Lake of the Two Mountains, through which an uninterrupted naviga- tion is maintained by steam boats to La Chine, nine miles above the ( ity of Montreal. This canal ren- ders the navigation of the Ottawa, between the Ri- deau and Montreal, complete. All the locks on the Carillon, and on the ChCite a Blondeau are of the same size as on the Rideau ; but oi; a part of the Grenville Canal, which was commenced before the large scale was jidopted, some locks, and a part of the cuttings will only admit boats twenty feet wide ; the locks on La Chine also are calculated for boats only twenty feet wide ; the na\ igation for boats above twenty feet wide is interrupted at the Gren- ville Canal, and if large boats be used on the Rideau, PHYSICAL AHPKCT. 159 ;uid on the hij^her part cf the Ottawa, all goods must Ik- unshipfK-'d on arriving- at tho (irtMuillo ( anal, and be eitlier conveyed by portage, or removed to smaller boats. The distance from Kingston, on Lake Ontario, to Bv Town, where the llideau River ioin.s the Ot- tawa. is about 15() miles ; f'n»m \\y Town to the (irenville Canal, 6'-4 mih's — total 211 miles, throngh the whole of which line, tin loeks and cuttings are of a size to admit steam boats l.'il feet long and ^3 feet wide, and drawing Hve feet of water. ']'he Montreal commnnication with the Ottawa, by the canal between the former place and Lake M. Louis, at La Chine, near IMontreal,' is termed La CnixB Canal j — it is '28 feet wide at the bottom, 48 at the water line, has live feet depth of water, and a towing j)ath ; the whole fall is 4'2 feet, with the locks : the length is about seven miles. It is the property of a company ; was be- gun in 1 82 1, completed in three years, at a cost of jt'137>000, which was defrayed by the company, shghtly assisted by government, in return fo; which aid the public service is exempt from toil. (See Commerce.) By means of the great and useful works just mentioned, a large extent of country is opened uj> to the industry of the British settlers : there is con- tinuous steam-boat communication in Upper Canada for about AGO miles, viz. from the (irenville Canal •^, i * .S7. Anne's. — A canal is proposed across the west extremity of the Island of Montreal, near the town of St. Anne's, to surmount the rapids. W ''^f 160 THE CANADAS. • i :. * ; 1 ■ !• \ If .1 !! MMta A'-i jhM^.-^#»Wrtai<. i.wfe^^jj4*>i^.i GiSOLOGY. 161 tier canals CHAFIER III. GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY OF THE CANADAS, MHl., CLIMATE, &C. In giving the geological features of our colonies, 1 beg to be understood as doing no more than register- ing such facts and observations as have yet been . proved or made, in order that general views may be substantiated or refuted by a more extended know- ledge of the surface of our globe. I would further beg to direct the attention of my readers to the circum- stance, that the geology of a country not only indi- cates the fertility of the soil, but also materially in- fluences the climate in regard to the health of our species. Following the arrangement adopted in the pre- ceding chapter, I begin with the geology, mineralogy, and soil, of Lower Canada. There are in America as manifest traces of an universal deluge as on the lofty Himalaya chain : boulder- stones are common all over the country in vast quantities ; sometimes they are found rounded, and piled in heaps to an immense height, on exten- sive horizontal beds of limestone, as if swept there by the action of water ; shells of various kinds are met with, in particular fresh -water •clams, cockles, and periwinkles especially are in abundance j masses of the latter have been found several hundred feet above VOL. I. M I I ■i t t t 162 THK CANADAS. I i i. 1 1 I ! the level of Lake Ontario. In the vicinity of large rivers, aud in many instances remote from them, undulations of rocks are seen, exactly similar to what are found in the beds of rapids were the channels are waved.* On the shores of the (Julph of St. Lawrence, detached boulder stones, different from those found inland, of an enormous size ('20 tons weight) are met with ; they are very hard, of a blackish grey colour, without veins, but with pointed particles of a brilliant nature . how they came there it is difficult to say, the rocks of the gulf shore being of a slaty limestone. The fossil organic remains are numerous, and con- sist of productie, terebratulae, orthoceratites, trilo- bites, and eneniuites, — these are found in the surface or upper strata, but rarely below. These records of a former animal existence distinct from any known in the present day, are intimately blended with the limestone in which they are entombed. f That the whole country has been subjected to some violent convulsion, subsequent to the Deluge, would appear from the singular contortions of the rivers, and the immense chasms found in mountains, from the indications of volcanic eruptions at St, Paul's Bay and north of Quebec, as also from the vast masses of alluvial rocks met with on the sur- face of the earth, having the appearance of vitrifac- tion. I think however it may be fairly assumed that the American Continent is of more recent for- * Tht' wavy rocks arf' termed provincially ire shrn'es. f Lieut". Baddtlcy, Royal Engineers, remarks this in reference to Upper Canada, but it is < qiially applicable to tl.e l.uwcr Pro- vince. i GEOLOGY. I6.i mation than that of Europe or Asia, or that it was covered for unknown ages bj' the waters of the great deep. So far as we know, the geological structure of Canada exhibits a granite country, accompanied with calcareous rocks of a soft texture, and in hori- zontal strata. The prevailing rocks in the Alleghany mountains are granite in vast strata, bat sometimes in boulders between the mountains and the shore ; greywacke and clay slate also occur with limestone occasionally ; various other rocks, usually detached, present themselves. The lower islands of the St. Lawrence are mere inequalities of the vast granite strata which occasionally emerge al)ove the level of the river ; the Kamouraska islands, and the Pen- guins in particular, exhibit this appearance j and in Kamouraska and St. Anne's parishes, large masses of primitive granite rise in sharp conical hills (one is 500 feet high) in some places with smooth sides and scarcely a fissure, in others full of fissures and clothed with pine trees which have taken root in these — the whole country appearing as if the St. Lawrence had at a former period entirely covered the land. At St. Roche, the post road leads for more than a mile under a perpendicular ridge of granite 3tX) feet high, The banks of the St. Lawrence are in many places composed of a schistus substance in a decaying or mouldering condition, but still in every quarter, granite is found in strata more or less inchned to the horizon, but never parallel to it. In the Gaspe district there have been obtained nume- rous and beautiful specimens of the (juartz family. i I \i I 164 THE CAN ADAS. including a grout variety of cornelians, agates, opals, and jaspers : coal indications have also been traced. The whole north shore of the St. Lawrence from Quebec to its mouth, and round the coast of Labra- dor, ofters a rich field for the mineralogist ; much of the coast bordering on the gulph being primitive, or of the earlier formations. According to some ob- servers, the north coast below the St. Lawrence ex- hibits trap rocks, clay slate, various detached rocks, and granite occasionally ; the latter beinj; supposed to prevail in the interior of the country, forming the base of the Labrador mountains and the coast of Quebec. Cape Tourment (SO miles from Quebec) is a round massive granite mountain about 1000 feet high, being a ramification of the rugged inte- rior chain of highlands. The immediate bed of the fall of Montmoreu'n is a horizontal shelf of dark grey limestone, of the kind called primitive or crys- tallized. Except in the bogs or marshes, rocks obtrude on the surface in all quarters, and in many parts there e:;ist deep fissures from six inches to two feet wide, as if they had been split by the action of fire, or some volcanic shock. The Indians say some of these rents extend several miles in length, about a foot broad, and from forty to fifty feet deep : they are not unfrequently hidden from view by va- rious creeping shrubs, and form dangerous pitfalls This would seem to confirm the following account of a terrific earthquake, which appears in a manu- script in the Jesuits College at Quebec : — 'On the 5th of February, 1G63, about half-pi.st five o'clock in the evening, a great rushing noise was heard , 1 CKOLOGY. It; 5 tliroughout the whole extent of ('anatla. This noise caused the people to run out of their houses into the streets, a» if their habitations had been on fire , but instead of flames or snnoke, tliey were surprised to see the walls reeling backwards and forwards, and the stones moving, as if they were detached from each other. The bells sounded by the repeated shocks. The roofs of the buildings bent down, first on one side and then on the other. The timbers, rafters, and planks, cracked. Tlie earth trembled violently, and caused the stiikes of the palisades and paliutj^s to dance, in a manner that would have been incredible had we not actually seen it in many pjaces. It was at this moment every one ran out of doors. Then were to be seen animals tlyini^ in every direc- tion 3 children crying- and screaming in the streets ; men and women, seized with afl'right, stood horror- struck with the dreadful scene before them, unable to move, and ignorant where to fly for refuge from the tottering walls and trembling earth, which threat ened every instant to crush them to death, or sink tiiem into a profound and immcasiii*ai)le abyss. Some threw themselves on their knees in the snow, crossing their breasts and callinir on their saints to relieve them from the dangers with whi' h they wore sur- rounded. Others passed the rest of tliis dreadful night in prayer ; for the earthquake ceased not, but continued at short intervals, with a certain undulating impulse, resembling the waves of the ocean ; and the same qualmish sensations, or sickness at the stomach was felt during the shocks as is experienced in a ve^3- sel at seu. .Mw^MM -»M 4«>^ i'^<*»ypri« U«li*»^.W«4^4t 1 1 166 THE CANADA8. I I 'The violence of the earthquake was greatest in the forests, where it appeared as if there was a battle raging between the trees ; for not only their branches were destroyed, but even their trunks are said to have been detached from their places, and dashed against each other with inconceivable violence and confusion— so much so, that the Indians, in their figurative maiiner of speaking, declared that all the forests were dnink. The war also seemed to be carried on between the mountains, some of which were torn from their beds and thrown upon others, leaving immense chasms in the places from whence they had issued, and the very trees with which they were covered sunk down, leaving only their tops above the surface of the earth; others were com- pletely overturned, their branches buried in the earth, and the roots only remained above ground. During this general wreck of nature, the ice, upwards of six feet thick, was rent and thrown up in large pieces, and from the openings, in many parts, there issued thick clouds of smoke, or fountains of dirt and sand, which spouted up to a very considerable height. The springs were either choaked up, or impregnated with sulphur — many rivers were totally lost j others were diverted from their course, and their waters entirely corrupted. Some of them became yellow, others red, and the great riv'erof St. Lawrence ap- peared entirely white, as far down as Tadoussac. This extraordinary phenomenon must astonish those who know the size of the river, and th(! immense body of water m various parts, which must have re- quired such an abundance of matter to whiten it. 7-7 GEOLOGY. 167 They write from Montreal that during the earth- quake, they plainly saw the stakes of the picketing or palisades jump up as if they had heen dancing j and that of two doors in the same room, one opened and the other shut of their own accord ; that the chinneys and tops of the houses bent like brancher of trees agitated with the wind ; that when they went to walk they felt the earth following them, and rising at every step they took, sometimes stick- ing against the soles of their feet and other things in a very forcible and surprising manner. ' From Three Rivers tiiey write, that the tirst shock was the most violent, and commenced with a noise resembling thunder. The houses were agitated in the same manner as the tops of trees during a tem- pest, with a noise as if fir^j was crackling in the gar- rets. Tile shock lasted half an hour or rather better, though its greatest force was properly not more than a qwirter of an hour ; and we beheve there was not asintrle shock which did not cause the earth to open either more or less. ' As for the rest, we have remarked, that though this earthquake continued almost without intermis- sion, yet it was not always of an equal violence. Some times it was like the pitching of a large vessel which dragged heavily at her anchors ; and it was this mo- tion which occasioned many to have a giddiness in their heads, and qualmishness at their stomachs. At other times the motion was hurried and irregular, creating sudden jerks, some of which were ex- tremely violent ; but the most common was a slight tremulous motion, which occurred frequently with ; I ' luiH I iilfi^^W— *■»■»■ i I 1 '■ i 168 THE CAN'ADAS. I ! * i little noise. Many of the French inhabitants and Indians, who were eye witnesses to the scene, state, that a great way up the river of Trois Rivieres^ about eighteen miles below Quebec, the liills which bordered the river on either side, and which were of a prodigious height, were torn from their founda- tions, and plunged into the river, causing it to change its courte, and spread itself over a large tract of land recently cleared ; the broken earth mixed with the waters, and for several months changed the co- lour of the great river St. Lawrence, into which that of Trois Rivieres disembogues itself. In the course of this violent convulsion of nature, lakes appeared where none ever existed before : mountains were overthrown, swallowed up by the gaping, or preci- pitated into adjacent rivers, leaving in their places frightful chasms or level plains ; falls and rapids were changed into gentle streams, and gentle streams into falls and rapids. Rivers in many parts of the country sought other beds, or totally disappeared. The earth and the mountains were entirely split and rent in innumerable places, creating chasms and pre- cipices whose depths have never yet been ascertained. Such devastation was also occasioned in the woods, that more than a thousand acres in our neighbour- hood were completely overturned ; and where but a short time before nothing met the eye but one im- mense forest of trees, now were to be seen extensive cleared lands, apparently cut up by the plough. ' At Tadoussac (about 150 miles below Quebec on the north side) the effect of the earthquake was not less violent than in other places j and such a heavy GEOLOGY. 161) shower of volcanic ashes fell in that ntMghhourhootI, particularly in the river 8t. Lawrence, that the waters were as violently agitated as during a temju'st. (The Indians say that a vast volcano exists in Labrador.) Near St. Paul's Bay, (about 50 miles below Quebec on the north side) a mountain, about a quarter of a league in circumference, situated on the shore of the St. Lawrence, was precipitated into the river, but as if it had only made a plunge, it r(js(^ from the bot- tom, and became a small island, forming with the shore a convenient harbour, well sheltered fror.i all winds. Lower down the river, towards Point Alout- tes, an entire forest of considerable extent was loosened from the main bank, and slid into the river St. Lawrence, where the trees took fresh root. There are three circumstances, however, which have rendered this extraordinary earthquake particularly remarkable : the tirst is its duration, it having con- tinued from February to August, that is to say, more than ^i\ months almost without mtermission ! It is true, the shocks were not tUways equally vio- lent. In several places, as towards the mountains be- hind Quebec, the thundering noise and trembling motion continued successively for a considerable time. In others, as towards Tadoussac, the shock continued generally for two or three days at a time with much violence. ' The second circumstance relates to the extent of this earthquake, which we believe was universal throughout the whole of New France, for we learn that it was felt from I' Isle Persee and (.Jaspe, which are situated at the mouth of the St. Lawrence to beyond Montreal, as also in ISew England, Acadia, ^ I 170 THE C.WADAS. 1 I ! and other places more remote. As far as it has come to our knowledge, tins earthquake extended more than 6(K) miles in length, and ahout 300 in hreadth. Hence 180,000 s(|uare miles ot'landwere convulsed in the same day, and at the same moment, ' The third circumstanee, which appears the most remarkable of all, regards the extraordinary protec- tion of Divine Providence, which has been extended to us and our habitations ; for we have seen near us the large openings and chasms which the earth- quake occasioned, and the prodigious extent of country which has been either totally lost or hide ously convulsed, witliout our losing either man, wo man, or child, or even having a hair of their hctids touched.' As Quebec is approached, a reddish or dark clay slate appears as the prevailing rock, and this forms the bed of the St. Lawrence, to Kingston and Nia- gara : boulders of granite, limestone, sandstone, sienite trap, and marble occur as detached rocks in the same extensive region. Montreal mountain is of the trap family, accompanied by limestone. The ridge of rocky country running N.E. and S.W. through the Newcastle and Midland districts towards Ottawa, at a distance of from 50 to 100 miles from the north shore of Lake Ontario, jind the course of the 8t. Lawrence, is rich in silver, lead, copper and iron. The rocks composing the hills on the north shore of the Saguenay river are in some places so strongly impregnated with iron, as to render .' compass extremely deceptive from its frequent variations. Among the mountains to the N. W. of the St. i<-.»^ .u'r.i.f. -«■=' GEOLOGY. 171 Lawrence, have been obtained iroi. felapar, horn- blende, native iron ore, granite, (white, grey and red) and a kind of stone very oonaiuon in Canada, called Limestone Granite, it being limestone that cal- cines to powder, yet by fracture apparently granite: marble is in abundance and plumbago of the finest quality. The inm mires of St. Maurice have long been celebraved, and the metal prepared vith wood is v^onsidered equal if ni t superior to Sv rdish. There is no doubt that Canada is rich in copper, lead, tin and other mineral productions. The beautiful spar, peculiar to Labrador, whence it derives its name, has long been celebrated ; some specimens are of an ultra mi.rine, or brilliant sky-blue colour — others of a greenish yellow — of a red — and of a fine pearly grey tint. Marble of excellent qua- Hty and of different hues, white, green and varie- gated, is found in several parts of the country ; and limestone, so useful to the agriculturist, almost everywhere abounds. The quantity of good soil in Canada, compared with the extent of country, is equal to that of any part of the globe j and there yet remains location for many millions of the human race. The best lands are those on which the hardest timber is found — such as oak, maple, beech, elm, black-walnut, &c. though bass-wood when of luxuriant growth, and pine when large, clean and tall, also indicate good land. Many of the cedar swamps, where the cedars are not stunted, and mingled with ash of a large growth, contain a very rich soil, and are calculated to form the finest hemp grounds in the world. So great IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 4. ^^ z 1.0 LI 11.25 tea 128 |2.5 ■50 *^^ UMPIRE Ill 1.8 I U u 1.6 6" Photographic Sdences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 > :i I' , I 172 THE CANADAS. is the fertility of the soil in Canada, that fifty busliels of wheat per acre are frequently produced on a farm, where the stumps of trees, which probably occupy an eighth of the surface, have not been eradicated — some instances of sixty bushels per acre occur, and near York in Upper Canada, 100 bushels of wheat were obtained from a single acre ! In some districts, wheat has been raised successively on the same ground for 20 years without manure. The soil on the promontory where Quebec stands, is light and sandy in some parts, in others it is a mixture of loam and clay ; — beneath the soil a black, silicious slaty rock is everywhere met with, resting generally on a bed of granite. Above Richelieu Rapids, where the mountains commence retreating to the south and north, the greater part ot the soil of the low lands is apparently of alluvial formation, consisting of a light and loose blackish earth, ten or twelve inches in depth, lying on a stratum of cold clay. The soil of Montreal island is generally alluvial, consisting in many places of light sand and loam, and in others, of a stiff clay, on a horizontal stratum of limestone with animal remains : the substratum granite being intersected by black slaty rock, similar to that of Quebec. Along the Ottawa there is a great extent of allu- vial soil, and many districts of fertile land are daily brought into view, which were before unknown. Upper Canada. — Our knowledge of the geological structure of the country bordering on the great lakes, is more minute than has been detailed under Lower I^'^, GEOLOCiY. 173 Canada. Beyond Lake Superior — or as La Hontan called it — " the fag end of the world," we know little or nothing j the country is exceedingly dreary — miles of ponds and marshes, where the mud is knee-deep, are succeeded by open, dry sandy deserts, terminating in forests of hemlock and spruce, and then again a regular alternation of swamps, mud, hog, windfalls, and stagnant water ; and in the course of many miles, there is seldom a dry spot to be found for a resting place : in winter strong whiskey is frozen to the consistence of honey, and in the height of summer, the mercury is down to 36° F. at sun- rise. To begin therefore with — Lake Superior. — The whole south coast of this vast inland sea is stated by Mr. Schoolcraft, an Ame- rican gentleman, who formed part of a Government Expedition from New York, to be a secondary sandstone, through which the granite on which it rests, occasionally appears j chalcedony, cornehan, jaspar, opal, agate, sardonyx, zeolith, and serpentine (all silicious except the last two), with iron, lead and copper are found imbedded in it. The sand hills west of the Grand Marais, present to the lake, for nine miles, a steep acclivity 300 feet high, com- posed of light yellow silicious sand, in three layers 150, 80 and 70 feet thick; the last mentioned up- permost, and like the lowest, pure, while the middle bed has many pebbles of granite, limestone, horn- blende and quartz. By the subsidence of the waters of Lakes Superior and Huron, occasioned, IMr. Lyell thinks, by the partial destruction of their barriers at some unknown period, beds of sand, 150 feet thick. i i: 174 THK CAXADAS. are exposed ; below which are seen beds of clay, en- closing shells of the very species which now inhabit the lakes. Dr. Bigsby, who minutely examined Lake Supe- rior, observed, that a red sandstone for the most part horizontal, predominates on the south shore, resting in places on granite. Amygdaloid occupies a very large tract in the north, stretching from Cape Verd to the Grand Portage, profusely intermingled with argillaceous and other porphyries, sienite, trap pose-greenstone, sandstone, and conglomerates. Trappose- greenstone is the prevailing rock from Thunder Mountain westward, and gives rise to the pilastered precipices in the vicinity of Fort William. Part of the north and east shore is the seat of older formations, viz. sienite, stratified greenstone, more or less chloritic, and alternating five times with vast beds of granite, the general direction east, with a north or perpendicular dip. Great quantities of the older shell limestone are found strewn in rolled masses on the beach, from Point Marmoaze to Grand Portage ; its organic re- mains are trilobites, orthoceratites, enerinites, pro- ductae, madrepores, terebratulae, &c. At Michipi- coton Bay was found a loose mass of pitchstone porphyry, the opposite angle being trappose. Copper abounds in various parts of the country j in particular, some large and brilliant specimens have been found in the angle between Lake Superior and Michigan. At the Coppermine River, (Onta- nagon 300 miles from the Sault de St. Marie), the copper, which is in a pure and malleable state, lies CKOLOGY. I" ^ in connexion with a body of serpentine rock, the face of which it almost completely overlays ; it is also disseminated in masses and grains throughout the substance of the rock. H«nry and others speak of a rock of pure copper, from which the former cut off an lOOlbs. weight. Mr. Schoolcraft exiimined the remainder of the mass in 1 8*20, and found it of irregular shape, — in its greatest length .i feet 8 inches, greatest breadth 3 feet 4 inches, making about 1 1 cubic fnet, and containing, of metallic mat- ter, about 2,200 lbs. ; but there were many marks of chisels and axes upon it, as if a great deal had been carried off. The surface of the block, unlike most metals which have suffered a long exposure to the atmosphere, presents a metallic brilliancy. Lake Huron, — The almost uniformly level shores of Lake Huron present few objects of interest to the geologist : secondary limestone, filled with the usual reliquiae, constitutes the gr«at mass of struc- ture along the coast. Here and there are found de- tached blocks of granite, and other primitive rocks j the only simple minerals found by Mr. Schoolcraft were pieces of chalcedony in one place, and in an- other, crystals of staurolite. Around Saganaw Bay, the primitive formation appears to approach nearer the surface ; the secondary limestone then gives place to sandstone, which disintegrates, and forms sand banks and beaches as on the sea shore. With the exception of spots of sand opposite the mouth of Spanish* and other rivers, the shore north • This river, the spcond in size that falls into Lake Huron, was discovered so recently aa 1820, by Captain Baylield. I -5 I ' > . » ■ i, 5 17« THE CANADAS. ' I , I ; :!■ ' i! ! < of Lake Huron is composed of naked rocks ; but on the south-east, and at the naval station of Peneta. naguishine, there are several undulating alluvial plat- forms several hundred feet high, rounded into knolls, intersected by water courses, and extending to the north-west shores of Lake Simcoe, and in fact, to Lakes Erie and Ontario. Lakes Huron, Michigsin and Superior have evi- dently been at one time considerably higher than they are at the present day, and it would appear that the subsidence of their waters has not been effected by slow drainage, but by the repeated de- struction of their barriers : indeed these three lakes have evidently at some remote period formed a single body of water, as is evinced by their comparatively low dividing ridge, by the existence, in Batchewine Bav, of numerous roiled masses which are i7i situ in the north-west parts of Lake Huron, and, among many other indications, by the very large boulders of the Huggewong granite, and the greenstone of Michipicoton, strewn in company with rocks of Lake Huron, over the Portage of St. Mary's ; their original situation being at least 100 miles north from where they are found at present. Great allu- vial beds of fresh water she" ; are found in the east of Lake Huron, whose appearance argues them to be of post-diluvian formation, effected while the waters were still of immense height and extent. Lake St. Clair. — The entrance of the Lake of St. Clair affords the first indication of the change in the geological formation, observed as we proceed through the lakes j pebbles of granite, hornblende I ' CLIMATK. 171 rock, and silicious sand are seen on the edge of the water, washed out from below the aHuvion of tlie banks. According to the Editor of ati able American Review, this is probably very near the limits where the materials of the primitive formation show themselves beneath the secondary, nothing of them being seen on the American side of Lake Erie 3 but around St. Clair, masses of granite, mica slate, and (juartz, are found in abundance. Lake Erie. — The chasm, at Niagara Falls, affords a clear indication of the geology of the country. 'I'he different strata are — lirst, limestone, — next, fragile slate, — and lastly, sandstone. The uppernjost and lowest of these compose the great secondary forina- tion of a part of Canada, and nearly the whole of the United States, occupying the whole basin of the Mississippi, and extending from it between the lakes and the Alleghany ridge of mountains, as far east- ward as the Mohawk, between which the slate is often interposed, as at Niagara, and throughout the the State of New York generally. At Niagara, the stratum of slate is nearly forty feet thick, and almost as fragile as shale, crumbling so much as to sink the superincumbent liraest(jne ; and thus verifying to some extent, the opinion that a retrocession «jf the falls has been going on for ages. Lake Ontario. — The subsoil around Lake Ontario is limestone, resting on granite. The rocks about Kingston are usually a limestone of very compact structure, and light blueish grey colour, — a fracture often approaching the conchoidal, a slight degree of translucency on a thin edge ; and after percussion. VOL. I. N -y—-»f. - i ■ i !' i 17 s THE CA^ADAS. ! I i !i I J I 1 1 i I the odour of flint is perceived rather than that ol bitumen. The lowermost limestones are in general more silicious than those above them j and so much is this the case, that, in some 'places, a conglome- rated character is given to the rock by the intrusion of pieces of quartz or horristone. It is worthy of remark, that both .angular and rounded masses of felspar rock, which usually underlies hmestone, (or, if absent, is supplied by a substratum in which hornblende predominates) are imbedded andisoL'ited in the limestone, demonstrating the latter to have been at one time in a state of fluidity. The limestone formation is stratified horizontfdlv, its dip being greatest when nearest to the elder rock on which it reposes, and by which it would apj)ear to have been upraised, subsequently to the solidifi- cation of its strata J the thickness of which, like the depth oiP the soil, varies from a few feet to a few inches. Shale occurs as amongst most limestones ; and, in some places so intimately blended with the latter, as to cause it to fall to pieces on exposure to the atmosphere. The minerals as yet noticed, in this formation, are chert or hornstone, basanite. chlorite, calcareous spar, barytes, sulphate of stron- tian, sulphuret of iron, and sulphuret of zinc. Ge- nuine granite is seldom or never found. The soils of Upper Can.ada are various ; that which predominates, is composed of brown clay and loam, with different proportions of marl intermixed ; this compound soil prevails principally in the fer- tile country, between the St. Lawrence and Ottawa ; towards the north shore of Lake Ontario it is more 1 MIXRRALOGY. 179 i'layey, and extremely productive. The substratum throughout these districts is a bed of hori/ontul limestone, which in some ])lacos rises to the surface. The colour is of different shades of blue, interspersed with i^rains of white quart/. It is used for build- ing, and is mnnufacUired into excellent lime by an easy j)rocess of calcination ; and it enriches and in- vigorates the soil when sprinkled over it. The limestone of Niagara differs from the foregoing in colour and quality, being grey, and not so easily calcined into lime. The Newcastle district lying between the upper section of the Ottawa and the St. Lawrence, is a rich black mould ; which also prevails throughout the East Kiding of York, and on the banks of the Ouse or (rrand River, and the Thames. • At Toronto the soil is fertile ; but stones are scarce for common use, which is also the case in some townships bordering Lakes Erie, St. Clair, and the Detroit, thus demonstrating the alluvial nature of the territory. A light sandy soil predominates round the head of Lake Ontario. Mineralogy.— I ha.e already adverted to the native copper found on the banks of Lake Superior, on the Coppermine lliver ; iron is abundant in various parts of the province, particularly at Cha. - eville, about eight miles from Lake Erie ; it is of that ('escription which is denominated shot ore, i me- dium between what is called mountain and bog ore, and the metal made is of a superior quality. At the Marmora Iron Works, about thirty-two miles north of the Bay of Quints, on the lliver Trent, and ii 1 I 1 * It ISO THE CAN'ADAS. \ ■which are situate on an extensive white rocky flat, bare of stones, and apparently in former times thi* bottom of a river, exhibiting, like many other parts of Canada, different ridges and water conrses ; the iron ore is rich to an excess, som*,: specimens yield- ing ninety-two per cent. 3 it is found on the surface, requiring only to be raised up : there is abundance of the re(|uisite materials of limestone and pine fuel in the vicinity. Magnetic oxyde, red oxyde, moun- tain, or lake ore, and other varieties are met with at this place. Black lead is found also at Marmora, on the shores of the (iannanocjui Lake, and in the eastern division of the colony, where it is said some silver mines are known to the Indians ; small speci- mens of a metal like silver have been found at Marmora. Two mineral springs flow at Scarborough, fifteen miles east of Toronto. Above the Niagara Falls is a i)henomenon, termed the Burning Spring, the water of which is in a constant state of ebullition, black, warm, and emitting so large a portion of sulphuretted hydrogen gas as to light a mill, which stood at the place, the gas yielding, when concen- trated in a tube, a light and beautiful flame j in win- ter the water loses its burning properties. At the head of Lake Ontario there are several fountains, strongly impregnated with sulphur ; the latter found in substance collected into solid lumps of brimstone. The Indians speak of volcanoes in several parts of the province, particularly towards the Chippewa hunting-grounds. So far as we hear, however, they would appear to be in an incipient state -, indeed the t'; ^=..,, ■j»W^'<-f(i(-i, -d -1^. n CLIMATK. ISI physical contipjuranoii and {i;t'olo^y of Upper Canada lead to the belief that it is but of recent formation, or rather emersion from the ocean, and tha* at no very dist.int jjcriod of time, instead of a continent, there was only a succession of i^huuls and rocks. Whether the water in the lowest dq)ths of Lake> Superior and Ontario be salt or fresii, we cannot u^- certain ; for the greater density of the former may keep it always below, or there may be a communi- cation with the fathomless abysses of the ocean. Salt " /uAa" (springs) are luiinerous ; one at Salt Fleet yielded a barrel of salt a dav. Near the JNlora- vian villages, on the River Thames, there are springs of petroleum, and a bituminous substance appears on several of the waters in the north west country . on the above named river there is a (juarry of soft free stone,' of a dark colour, which the Indians hew out with their u.\gh • it will not endure the heat of Hre, but is useful for building. Near the Gannano- qui lake is found a soft-soap stone, with a smooth oily surface. Gypsum is obtained in large quan- tities and of excellent quality on the (irand, or Ouse river. Potter's and Pipe Clay are frecpient, and Yel- low Ochre is occasionally met with. Climate of tiik Canadas. — The temperature of this extensive country varies of course with the dis- tance from the equator, — the contiguity to ranges of uncultivated mountains, 8ic., but as a whole, the clear blue sky, the absence of fogs, and the conse- (juent peculiar elasticity of animal fibre, indicate the salubriousness of British North America. In the Kastern provinces or Lower Canada, the greater I' r ' J n I ; 1 1 I8<2 TIIK CAVADAS. I ^ I S i .«evcrity of the winter, is owinc: pj^rtly to its N.E. position, and partly to the N. E. ranye of lofty mountains. In the more N. part of the province, the snow commences in November, but seldom con- tinues many days on tlie ground before December, when the whole country is covered for several feet deep, and it does not entirely disap])car before the beginning- of May. The frost durini:; this period is generally inten.se, with N. W. winds and clear at- mosphere, during the greater part of tbc winter . but on a change of wind to the southward and east- ward, the weather is overcast, the atmospliere Ix'- eomeft damp, sometimes accompanied with thick fog and snow falls, with a considerable rise in the thermometer, — which usually ranges, during the months of December, January, February, and March, from 32 to 25 helotc zero — Fahrenheit, fn. 1700, Mercury fro/.e at Quebec. It is often 60 Fahrenheit below the freezing point — 20. is the average. As an experiment, bomb-shells were nearly filled with water of the temperature of 51 degrees be- low the freezing point ; an iron plug was then driven into the fuse-hole by a sledge-hammer ; when the water froze, the ping was fcrced out with a loud report, and vv'ith great velocity , to a considerable extent ; a plug 2| oz. weight was thrown 415 yards, the elevation of the fuse axis being at 45. When a plug with notched springs, permitting its expan- sion within the shell, was used, the shell always burst. Rocks, pari»cularly those of the calcareous, schistous, and sand-stone order, are often rent as if with gun])owder, by the expansive force of intense <*; "'tte.; H i >>ji i! B i> »T. -•-f1^''l*r'i*'**>«^4^*^A-.^^ isei***,. rr,iM\TF,. I S3 frost. During the cold Frosty tiii^hts, the woods creak, as if lO^HH) hm hfrons wore at them with their hatchets. As the winter comes on, one snow .storm suc- ceeds another till the face of the wliole country is changed, — every particle of t!;roun{| is covered, the trees alone remaining visible, and even the mighty river St. liawrence is arrested in its course j everywhere, in fact, the chilling influence of winter is felt, and every precaution is taken by rmm, to resist its benumbing eifects. All the feathered tribes take the alarm — even the hardy (row retreats — and few quadrupeds are to be seen ; some, like the bear, re- maining in a torpid state ; and others, like tiie hare, changing their colour to pure white, and thus with didicultv to be discerned amid the snow. - From Quebec to Montreal, the St. Lawrence ceases to be navigable, and serves as a road for theftkighs and carrioles. The carriole varies in shape ac> ord- ing to the fancy of tlic owner ; sometimes like that of a j)haeton, or gig, or a chariot, or family coach ; the body is placed on what are called runners, which resemble in form the irons of a pair of skaits, rising up in front in the same manner jmd for the same purposes. The high nninern are about eighteen inches ; but generally the carriole is about twelve inches above the snow, over which it glides with great ease^ on a level surface, without sinking deep : but when cahuts (from cnhoter, to jolt), a word which denotes narrow ridges with deep furrows, ire formed in the snow, the motion is like rowing ii. a boat against a head sea, producing a sensation, until one t * II ii i i;'''"!'ji.'i'^jh|i"^ ! Ii if*"." i ■, 1 i i r tm TUE CAN A DAS. is accustomed to It, somewhat like sea-sickness. The carriole is often mounted with silver, and ornamented with expensive furs. The Iraineaux, hurline, cutter and sleigh are all varieties of the carriole. Instead of the variety which a Canadian summer presents, by enabling the traveller to trace the course of noble river? — to contemplate the fall of mighty cataracts — the gaiety and liveliness of the busy hum of com- merce in the passing vessels on the moving waters — tlie fine tints of the forests, and the auburn tinge of the ripening corn— the whihrle of the plough- boy, and the lowing of the tended kine — nothing is now to be seen but one continued solid plain j no rivers, no ships, no animals — all one uniform, un- broken plain of snow, the average depth of which, unless where accumulated by snow-storms or drifts, is about 30 inches. The dress of the Canadian now undergoes a com- plete change ; the hat and bonnet rouge are thrown aside, and fur caps, fur cloaks, fur gloves, are put in requisition, with worsted hose over as well as under his boots : those who take exercise on foot use snow shoes, or mocassins, which are made of a kind of network, fixed on a frame, and shaped like a boy's paper kite, about two feet long, and 18 inches broad ; these cover so much of the surface of the snow that the wearer sinks but a very few inches, even when the snow is softest. While the severity of the season is thus guarded against by the Canadians when out of doors, their habitations are also secured against the destructive power of intense cold. The walls of the houses :r'- ■ CLIMATK. 195 fire usuiilly plastered* on the outside, to preserve the stones from moisture, which, if acted on by the frost, is liable to split them ; and the apartments are heated with stoves, which keep the tempera- ture at a higher and more uniform rate than our English fire-places do. And here it may be observed, that the result of intense cold (such as is felt in Canada) is, if not f^uarded against, similar to that of intense heat ; with this difference, that it is easier to guard againj?t the effects of the one in N. America than of the other in India. A cold iron during a Canadian win- ter when tightly grasped, blisters and burns with nearly equal facility as a hot iron. The principle, in both instances, is alike — in the former, the caloric or V ital heat of the body passer so rapidly from the hand into the cold iron, as to destroy the con- tinuous and organic structure of the part ; in the latter, tlie caloric passes so rapidly from the hot iron into the hand, as to produce the same effect : heat, in both cases, being the cause ; its passing into the body from the iron, or into the iron /rom the body, being equally injurious to vitality. From a similar cause the incautious traveller, in Canada, is i>urnt in the face by a very cold wind, with the same sen- sations as when he is exposed to the blast of an eastern sirocco. Milton thus alludes to the effects of cold in his description of the abode of Satan * It has been found difficult to get plaster to adhere, parti- cularly if exposed to the easterly wind ; but by mixing a couple of pounds of Muscovado sugar with a bushel of lime, a hard and durable rough casting is produced. ti r« ' # I \ 1 1 J ■ I k. 186 THE CANADAS. and his compeers : after adverting to Styx he says — " Beyond this flood, a frozen continent Lies, dark and wild, beat with perpetual storms Of whirlwind and dire hail, which, on firm land Thaws not, but gathers heap, and ruin seems Of ancient pile : all else deep snow and ice ; A gull' profound as that Serbonian bog Betwixt Damiata and Mount Casius old, Where armies whole have sunk : the parching air Burns frore, (frozen) and cold performs the effect of /ire."* Paradise Lost, Prjok ii. We also find in Virgil (ieorg. I. 93 — Borese penetrabile frigus adurat. The term. frost-hitte?i denotes the effect produced by extreme cold, accompanied by a sharp biting wind. In such weather, persons are liable to have the nose, toes, fingers, ears, or those parts where the circula- tion of the blood is scanty and slow, frost-hitten, without being made aware of the change by their own sensations ; and it not unfrequently happens that they are first informed of their misfortune by a passing stranger, who observes the nose for in- stance, becoming quite white, while the rest of the face is very red. In such a })redicatnent, it is at first startling to see an utter stranger running up to you with a handful of snow, calling out " your nose, sir. your nose is frost-bitten ;" and, without furtlier * Dogs become mad at Quebec in December and January when the cold is grcatt'st. Extreme cold and extreme heat being equally favourable to the propar^atiou of hydrophobia. .r"i'3(rf»*- CLIMATE. 187 ceremony,rubs without mercy at your proboscis — it being the first time, perhaps, thut any one has ever dared to tweak and twingi; that exquisitely sen- sitive organ— which some have considered the seat of honour. If snow be well riiblml in in due time, there is a chance of saving the most prominent feature of the face ; if not, or if heat be applied, not only is the skin destroyed, but the nose, and a great part of the adjacent surface, are irrecoverably lost. The result of the long-continued action of snow or cold on the animal frame is inevitable death, and that of the most pleasing kind ; — at first a degree of languor is felt, — to this succeeds an oppressive drowsiness, which, if indulged in, is surely fatal — the sufferer passing, without motion or pain, from the slumber of life into the cold sleep of death, leaving the countenance as calm and placid as if the pulse of existence still vibrated through the frame, while voluntary muscular power was suspended, under the delightful enjoyment of sound repose. Those who feel the pleasurable moments which in- tervene between the states of consciousness and unconsciousness on approaching sleep, — when in- distinct visions and indescribable emotions are ex- perienced by the guileless, may readily conceive the exquisite mode in which the soporific infiuence of frost softens the iron grasp of the grim tyrant. It is probable that the death from inhaling the vapour of burning charcoal, is soniv^^wnat sirjlar to this. It must not, however, be supposed that the severity of the winter is any obstacle to out-door amusements. '! ( I 1 188 THE CANADAS. i\ - I I ! If though it stops the navigation of the rivers and the cultivation of the soil ; on the contrary, winter in Canada is the season of joy and pleasure : the cares of business are laid aside, and all classes and ranks indulge in a general carnival, as some amends for the toil undergone during the summer months. The sleigh or carriole of the humble /ia/>iic-nic country parties, where each guest brings his dish, are quite the rage ; and, after dining, dancing, and supping, and dancing again, the wintry morning dawn is ushered in, while the festive glee is yet at its height, and a violent snow-storm often blockades the picnickers, until broad daylight enables them to carriole towards home — (n'erthe ice-bound rivers and waves of snow, in all the enjoyments of which the lightest hearted beings can be susceptible — con- sidering the hardships and inconveniencies of the moment, as a zest to the more staid and fashionable routes of Quebec or Montreal. Travelling over frozen rivers or lakes is, however, not unattended with real danger ; the sleigh, its horses and passengers, being not unfrequently in- stantly engulphed, and sucked beneath the ice ; there being no warning of the danger until the horses sink, dragging the carriole and its inmates after them. Fortunately, the weak or thin places are in general of no great extent ; and when the horses are found to be sinking, the passengers in- CLIMATE. 189 stantly leap out on the strong ice, seize the ropes, which, with a running noose, are placed ready for such an emergency on every sleigh horse's neck, and, by sheer pulling, the animal is strangled in order to save- his life! This is absolutely a fad. If the horse be allowed to kick and struggle, it only serves to injure and sink him : as soon, however, as the noose is drawn tight, his breathing is momen- tarily checked, strangulation takes place, the animal becomes motionless, rises to the surface, lloats on one side, and is then drawn out on the strong ice, when the noose being loosened, respiration re-commences, and the horse is on his feet carrioling away again in a few minutes as briskly as ever. This singular and almost incredible operation has been known to be performed two or three times a day on the same horse; and the Americans say, that like Irishmen, the animals are .so used to being hanged that they think nothing of it. Often, however, horses, sleigh or carriole, and passengers, are in a moment sunk, and swept beneath the ice. The traveller on the frozen rivers, but more especially on the frozen lakes, incurs also great danger from the large rifts or openings which run from one side of the lake to the other, from one to six feet broad, causing, at some distance from the crack, a shelving up of the ice to the height of several feet, in proportion to the breadth of the fissure. The sleigh drivers, when they see no other mode of passing, or of escape, make the horses endeavour to leap the chink at full gallop, with the sleigh behind them, at the imminent risk of being engulphed in the lake. t l;:^' ■•€ ?*., I 'f \l f. I ii i! i I r 190 THE CANADAS. A snow-siorm is another source of danger to the American traveller ; and there is, indeed, something truly awful and terrific in a snow-storm on land, as well in as a hurricane at sea, with this disadvantage attending the traveller on terra firmn, that he has no land-marks, supplying the place of the mariner's compass, to guide him in his trackless path, while the intellects become rapidly bewildered, memory fails, and a road often travelled, and formerly well known, is utterly lost in the remembrance of the unfortunate traveller. While the heavy fall of snow is taking place, it is accompanied by a violent gale of wind, which drifts the light snow along with great velocity, forming in its j)rogres8 innumerable eddies and turnings according to the inequalities of the surface, and raising as it were light clouds from the earth, which obscure and confuse every thing. This drift, which the Canadians call La Poudre, consists of minute but intensely frozen particles of snow, which, whirled by the impetuosity of the hurricane, force their way through the smallest window or door chink, leaving large heaps of snow on the floor in a few hours, as we some- times experience on a small scale in England. 1 cannot here forbear giving the following picturesque Canadian song, by Mrs. Moodie, which, while it de- picts the danger of the traveller over the snow, cheers us with the feelings which welcome the parent and the husband at the cottage door, when the perils of the ice-bound flood are past : — y"TT-':- CJylMATE. 19J *l'i3 merry to hear at evening time, By the blazing hearth, the sleigh-bell's chime;* And to know each bound of the steed br iigs nigher .The friend lor whom we have heaped the fire. Light leap our hearts, while the listenin<; ho\md Springs forth to hail him with bark and bound. 'Tis he ! and blithly the gay bells sound. As his sleigh glides over the frozen ground ; Hark ! he has passed the dark pine-wood, And skims like a bird o'er the ice-bound Hood ; Now he catches the gleam from the cabin do'f. Which tells that his toilsome journey's o'er. Our cabin is small, and coarse our cheer, But love has spread the banquet here ; And childhood springs to be caressed By our well-beloved and welcome guest ; With a smiling brow his tale he tells, While the urchins ring the merry sleigh-bells. From the cedar-swamp the gaunt wolves howl. From the hollow oak loud whoops the owl, Scared by the crash of the falling tree : But these sounds bring terror no more to me ; No longer J listen with boding fear, ITie sleigh-bell's distant chime to hear. Below Quebec the St. Lawrence is not frozen over^ but the navigation is impeded by the large masses of ice which are floated down the river from the upper districts, and kept in motion by the combined action of the current at the narrows opposite Que- bec, and the diurnal influence of the ocean tides, * The horses in the sleighs or carrioles have small bells hung on the harness, the sound of which is cheering to the animal as well as to his master : in a frosty night, sound is rapidly and extensively conveyed to an anxious and listening ear, and the tinkle of the distant sleigh bell may well be thought musical. 1 ■i> [ r ■J ^ii i i ' i V i M 1 !■■ V ■'. t ■^ >: ^ t 192 THE CANADAS. To cross the river at these times, though a dange- rous enterprise, is one that is constantly performed. I'he period chosen is high water when the large masses of ice arc almost stationary ; the canoe is then launched, the people being provided with ropes, boat-hooks and paddles 5 when a sheet of ice is reached the ^ assengers jump out on it, drawing the canoe after them, until they come to another open- ing, when they again launch their fragile convey- ance, which is pushed towards another sheet of ice, and so on, the greatest dexterity being necessary U) avoid being crushed to pieces, canoe and all, between two of the huge masses of ice when coming toge- ther with a violent crash. At distant intervals, about once in ten years, the St. Lawrence is frozen across completely at Que- bec, when a grand rejoicing takes place, a kind of jubilee in fact ; booths are erected on the ice, sleigh races are enacted, skating, driving, &,c. occur on a smooth sheet of ice, which for eight miles appears like a mirror, and the pant (as it is termed) enables the country people on the opposite side from Que- bec to bring their frozen provisions &c. to market in their carrioles without the difficulty and danger of crossing the half frozen river in their slight canoes. As soon as the winter sets in, the farmer is obliged to house all his cattle sheep and poultry, when those destined for winter use are killed before they lose any of the fat acquired during the summer and autumn. Tsio salt is necessary to preserve them — they are exposed to the frost for a short time, when they be- come as hard as ice, and in this state, after being ri ClilMATE. 193 i a dang-e- jrformed. the large canoe is ith ropes, of ice is wing the ler open- convev- et of ice, essary to between ing toge- ^ears, the at Qiie- i kind of e, sleigh cur on a ippears I enables >m Que- ) market anger of ; canoes. s obliged len those lose anv autumn, they are they be- ?r being ■ |- packed in casks or boxes with snow, are preserved from the external air. At tl»e end of four or five months they are still perfectly poud, and thawed for use with cold water — warm lluid would render the provisions quite useless. Fish is also preserved in a similar manner, and it is stated may be restored to lite f(»ur or five days after being immediately Iro/eu when taken out of water, From tliese .'ircum^tanees, housekeeping is less expensive in winter than in summer. During the month of April, the influence of the sun on the ice and snow begins to be felt, and about the first week in iNIay, the snow has all disaj)peared in the neighbourhood of Quebec 5 * and the ice which had been accumulating in the great lakes and rivers that pay tribute to the 8t. Lawrence, rushes down in vast masses nnd almost incredible quantities to- wards the ocean, which again dashes it inland with the impetuosity of the gulf tides, presenting an ex- traordinary and almost terrific scene : sometimes the Jit. Lawrence is choked up from bank to bank with masi-es of ice from 4 to 5(K) yards in diameter, — the sea-tide and land current force these on one another, and break them into small pieces, formuig fantastic groups of figures, high above the surface of the river, — the effect of the wind and water on these masses may easily be imagined. The navigation of the river is not said to be completely open until they have all disappeared, which is about the second week in May; vessels attempting to get out of, or to enter * The sj)nng is three weeks earlier at Montreal, distant on the St. Lawrence about 180 miles. V(>!.. I, O 'i in n 194 THE CANADAS. I I ] ' the St. Lawrence while the ice is forming or disap- pearing-, are frequently lost, by being embayed, and crushed to pieces during a severe storm, when the running rigging, and even the rudder become im- moveable. It is worthy of notice, that so large a river as the St. Laurence, in lat. 47, should be shut up with ice as early, and remain as long closed ^five months) as the comparatively small river Aera, in lat. 60. A singular meteorological phenomenon occurs in the midst of a Canadian winter, when the mercury F. is (>0" below the freezing point ; suddenly, in the course cf a day (in January generally) it ascends '2° or 3" above the point of congelation, the weather instantly changing from the greatest degree of cold to a complete thaw. The streets are inundated with the melted snow, the roads become soft, and carrioling on the river dangerous j the thaw some- times lasts for ten days, when intense frost again commences, producing a beautiful effect on the trees, namely, an incrustation of ice, from the smallest branch to the trunk, and which, if the sun shines upon them, produces the appearance of fairy work or enchantment. The severest winters are generally accompanied by N. E. winds, which convey from Labrador and by the icy Pole, new supplies of snow and frost } but the prevailing-winds throughout the year are westerly ; in the winter, cold sharp and dry airs blow from the N. and N. W. and in the summer genial breezes come from the W. and S. W. The E. wind blows for a few days in each month, and in the spring, during April and May, for a longer period. The Aurora CLIMATE. iv:> Borealis, or northern lights, are extremely brillkuit, andassume various forms — at one time, like gorgeous tloating standards — at another as a vast crescent, (ihanging into magnificent columns or pillars of re- splendent light, which move in majestic grandeur from the horizon towards the zenith, until the whole Hrmament becomes splendidly irradiated — suddenly vanishing, and as suddenly reappearing under new forms and colours, and with varied brilliancy, until they entirely disappear. It is said by some, that a rustling like that of silk is heard during a tine Aurora. Mr. McGregor never heard it in Labrador. But it is time to leave the consideration of hoary winter, and hasten, with the husbandman and lover of nature, to experience the delight of ;igain behold- ing green sods, verdant groves, and Mowing rivers. The summer commences about the middle of May, and is usually ushered in by moderate rains, and a rapid rise in the meridijin heat, though the nights are still cool ; but in June, July and August, the heat becomes great, and for a few days oppressive, the thermometer ranging from 80" to 95" in the shade ; but the average heat during the summer seldom ex- ceeds 75*^. A good idea of the spring of the year may be formed from the following Agricultural report for April and May^ 1834— the intending emigrant will doubtless be gratified with the perusal : — LOWER CANADA AGRICULTUIIAL REPORT, FOR APRIL AND MAY, 1834. Early in April well prepared soils were in good order to re- ceive the seed, and about the 1 0th or 1 2th wheat sowing was i I M'---* lOfJ TiiK canahas. 1 li 1 I , \: very generally ooinmonrod. The weather continuing fine to the 21st, afforded opportunity to those larniers who had done their ploiighinji; hust fall, to git in their seed in s^ood season. Krom the 21st, the month of April was (li>.tinpuisli(>d, as it often is, by the rapidity of its changes, from heat to cold, wet, and severe night frosts. Tlie change was so great a(> to stop vege- tation almost cntn'ely. C!okl changeable weatlu r eoi»tiniied to the niiddle of May — on the night of the 14th ice was formed, and on the 15th mere was a considerable fall of snow. From the Itith to the end of the month, tiie weather was exceedingU favonrnhU", and vegetation has got on with great vigour. Farmers have not met with nmch interruption tliis spring from wet days, and consequently should n'nv have their work in a state of great fniwardness ; sowing and planting ought to be coni|)lefcd by the 10th of June, and thus give a month's in- terval to haying lime, to prepare summer fallow on lands that require it, and alway* in pn fen ncc to sowiuL; oats, after the 1st of June. The pastiire?. should now be good, and will soon improve the condition of the cattle. Dairy produce appears to be abun- dant in the market, and the prices moderate. Notwithstanding the shortnes-s of the seasons that farmers have here to work in the fields, Canada is by no means un- favourable for farming, and in ordinary seasons, with the seed got in early, on soils well prepared, a good crop of all kinds of grain, wlieat particularly, may generally be obtained. With command of labour, which continued emigration will give, the farmer has only to cm[)|oy double the number of hands for the working sea on, while the days art long and tine, that he would have requirtd m England for the whole year, and he may get all his work done, perhaps at not a greator expense, and the labourer will have his summer's earnings to take to the woods, (if he has a 'amily^ to commence tanning on his own account, which should be the ultimate aim of all the labouring class ol emigrants, if they expect to secure future independence for themselves and their families. At this moment the country is charming ; after a long and gloomy winter, the earth is again renovated — new life r^.'stored to plants — the trees dressed in leaves and blossoms — the fields ■ i^ifci- |liJr>i'IV''ift^ ll^^'^lllrl'-|l■l ■*■■ ii^ili CLIMATE. 197 in bomitiful Krcrn, and all natii-i- appt-ars to rt-joirc. Though every field may not be equally luxuriant, th( Kciieral appearunce of the countiy i.- i' ii;j;httul, anil oufrht to l)0 pi-rfertly satisfac- tory to all those engaged in a;;riculture, nioi( particularly those who have perforined their f<(|rt uril. Cote St. Faul, May 31, IKU Wm. Faan«*. 'J'b.'it the climate of (. aiiadd has underj:<»nc a clianire is shown by tho uionn hright of tlic thcrniomcier at 8 A.M., for thf month of .luhi in the folhnvm^' years: — 1799. ()6.87 ; 18()'2, ';H.;3.", ; ISOfJ. (]5.;ifj'; ISOI), 6o.f)0 ; 1 8 1'2, (>2. h; J 1811. (,•(). I r, , 1 8 1 f ;, .•)S.(;.5 ; 1818, f>-l.(K). Since 1818 the chanj^c has been con- .jiderahle, partly owini; to tlio motion of the yja«'^ .-*>?".>*- "*- CLIMATE. 1!)1) Among the meteoric phenomena observed in Canada, I may here record that singular one, termed the ' dark days' which occurred in October, 1785, and in July, 1814. These appearances (as de- scribed in the transactions of the Quebec Literary and Horticultural Society,) consisted of a dismal pitchy darkness at noon-day, continuing about ten minutes at a time, and frequently repeated at twelve, two, three and four o'clock, the intervals being partially relieved by vast masses of clouds streaked with yellow, driving athwart the darkened sky, accompanied by sudden gusts of wind with much thunder, lightning and rain, the latter extremely black, and in 1814, mixed with ashes and black powder. In the latter instance, when the sun could be seen, it appeared ( f a bright red colour. The Indians account for this phenomenon by ascribing it to a volcano, in Labrador ; and Mr. Gagnon has placed on record that he witnessed at St. Paul's Bay, in the Saguenay country, in 1701, the flames of a vast volcano, during the month of December, accom- panied by violent shocks : flames mixed with dark smoke were thrown to a great height, causing the whole atmosphere to appear one mass of fire, — which was in strange contrast with the surrounding snow. As Canada becomes cleared, and its swamps dr.'ined, the health of its inhabitants is materially benefitted, and they may be said in general to enjoy as salu- brious an atmosphere as we do in England, while the heat of summer is less relaxing, and the cold of winter more bracing than at New York, or in- deed any part of the United States. As regards ,1^*p»j»fclH^-i.- '■4 200 TUE CAXADA8. * I I, 1' |:. agriculture, the lengthened winter of Lower Canada is certainly not on the whole unfavourable to the tiller of the soil. The effect of snow on the earth for a long period, is well known to be favourable j and the fall of deep snow in a country where frost prevails from five to six months, is one instance among many, of the beautiful arrangements of Pro- vidence ; had it not been so, the continued action of cold on the earth would have so robbed it of its natural caloric, that the heat of several hot summers would have been required to restore the warmth necessary to the germination of plants, and the ascension of the sap in vegetables. The natural heat of the earth is about 4*2" Fahrenheit ; but it has been ordained by the Being, who has so wonderfully adapted means to an end in every in stance, that water when cooled down to 32" Fahrenheit, should be converted into snow and ire ; by this means, the rivers and the land, with their myriads of fish and insects, are protected by a dense crust of ice, which is a non-conductor of heat, from the pernicious in- fluence of that immense volume of cold atmosphere, which is continually pressing from the polar regions towards the equator. Thus, that very coating of snow, which seems so rigorous in itself, is in fact a warm garment for the earth ; and as soon as the returning sun has driven back the north winds to their icy region, the latent caloric of the earth begins to be developed, the snow melts, and percolates with rapidity the stiffest soils, rendering them peculiarly friable, and adapted to the immediate labours of the husbandman ; while it is a singular •1 t 1 f CLI^^ATE. 201 fact, that for a month or six weeks before the visible termination of the Canadian winter, vegetation is in active process even on the surface of the earth, beneath a covering of snow several feet thick. Montreal being a central j)oint of Lower Canada, it will be preferable to give an idea of its climate in regard to the thermometer, barometer, winds and rain. I therefore subjoin the following extracts from Meteorological Tables for the year 1831, kept at Montreal by Dr. W. Robertson. JANUARY. Date. Thermometer. Barometer. _ 7 A.M. 3 P. M. 7 A. M. P. M 1 30 24 2y.50 29.15 2 18 18 30. •> HO. 5 3 15 21 30.35 30.35 4 26 33 30. 7 V!).90 5 36 33 29.1)0 29.92 6 2 34 30.15 30.17 7 25 24 30.12 30.18 8 12 18 30.37 30.38 9 H 13 30.32 30.27 10 —2 13 30.17 30. 7 11 14 29 29.97 29. «7 12 8 8 30. 8 30.20 13 -6 6 30.45 30.42 14 6 16 30.38 30.35 15 3 11 30. 1 5 30. 4 16 ir 22 30. 29.98 17 3 13 .10. 29-90 18 13 30 29.68 29-63 19 12 16 29-47 29-46 20 -8 (i 29-79 :a9-90 21 —15 3 30. 5 30. 22 — 3 8 2g.r.5 29-45 23 - 5 1 2y fio 29.70 24 — 10 29.75 29.68 25 — 4 9 29.58 2'). 50 26 10 22 29.50 29-43 27 12 22 29.60 29.65 28 13 20 29.97 30. 29 6 20 2999 29.95 30 6 23 2'J.95 29.95 31 31 32 29.95 29.93 Inches Wind at o( Rain. Noou. wsvv sw .20 NE .40 N. .15 SW SW w SW ., N NNE. S. ESE .. WXW wsw .. w N NNE WSW s. SW • ■ W WNW sw s. NE s. wsw WSW SW SW s. vv ■■ W by N WSW ,. wsw 8 '■Zirl THE CAN A DAS. JUJ.Y. i ii : Inches Winil at Date. Therm( 7 A.M. smeter. Barometer. of rain. Noon. 3 P.M. 7 A.M. 3 P.M. 1 fi4 83 .30.25 30,20 N. 2 72 88 30.28 .30.30 .. .ssw 3 72 92 311.32 30.25 , , wsw 4 74 95 .30.20 30.12 , , wsw 5 75 86 30.10 2y.86 .20 sw 6 71 87 29.81 29.90 .20 w m 4 69 88 29.97 29-97 N s 71 92 29.96 29.90 .20 SE 9 80 68 29.75 29.90 .15 VVNW 10 50 65 30. 3 30. 7 WNW U 52 75 30.27 30.25 SW 12 58 82 30.25 30.10 SW 13 60 88 30. 7 30. SSW It 6', 82 29.92 29.88 SSE 15 64 68 29.87 29.82 .15 NE 16 65 n 29.86 29. 80 W.SW 17 62 76 29.90 29.89 WSW 18 65 70 29.85 2960 SSE 19 66 76 29-70 29.60 '!40 SW 20 65 78 29.70 29.64 SW 21 66 80 29.70 29.65 WSW 23 66 80 29.70 29.73 w 23 65 76 29.75 29.68 ".10 SE 24 67 82 29.75 29.78 SSW 25 66 1^ 29.82 29.72 .30 SSW 26 66 74 29.75 29.70 .23 w^ 27 55 n 29.85 29.95 w. 28 65 n 29.8O 29.7.' .25 SSE. 29 60 80 29.90 29.92 SW. 30 62 85 29.95 29.78 .10 S. 31 70 78 2(>.85 29.92 .5 N. It- Upper Canada. — Of course, in an extent of country, lying, between 42 and 50 of north latitude^ the climate is various 5 in the settled townships it is generally delightful, neither so cold in winter as Lower Canada, nor so hot in summer as New York ; in the Newcastle district, between 44 and 45, a man may work in the woods, the whole winter, with his coat off, as in England ; and the summer heat is tempered by a cool breeze, which sets in from CLIMATE ^03 the S. VV. about 10 a. m., and lasts generally to 3 or 4 p. m. In summer, the wind blows two-tbirds of the season from the S. W., ?. t. along the great lakes. In spring and autumn, this wind brings a good deal of moisture with it. Tlie N. W. which is the most frequent in winter, is dry, cold, and elastic j the S. E. soft, thawy, and rainy : the wind seldom blows from west or south, more rarely still from the north. Of course, changes of wind are accom- panied by corresponding alternations of weather ; the most sudden are to the N. W., followed by weather clear and cold for the season— almost every thunder shower clears up with this wind : the longest storms of rain, and the deepest falls of snow, are usually accompanied by easterly winds. It may be generally remarked, that the human frame, in all climates, is more sensibly atfected by the (quarter whence the wind blows, than by the mere height of the thermometer, — humidity with cold or heat ren- dering the extremes of each less endurable. The table which will be found on the following page, affords a comparative view of the climate of I'pper and Lower Canada throughout the year, as regards the highest, lowest, and mean tempertaure, for each month, in Upper ant' Lower Canada, — latitude 42. north in Upper Canada, — latitude 45. in Lower Canada. si 204 Tin; TAXADAR. • ■ ,! i o o c a. (A o E J2 > I a, S o O I 3: < H M S ;z T OS H F- H S o u H a c .J K S o c o _1'iOM-', .Sipi^}fj,/55eSU) It •o •u "i" n r 2 '" « '-o « to a « -^ -5 ij 71 ?< PI ?i ?i (M (N « ii i; Z .1 T3 ■< a < < u ei K a< a. ■a 3 o ^_ Oi ^■» ?< If -Ti CI o ■» C-. t^ JO et a atfw in *' a < c rt-* — P'we'iwNNN — — — ■«f3>?l-.-* t> •"^ "5 « « 1-^ n 7 GO ■* •-4 « ? i ^. c I I T I I I I I I I I [ ~ IN ■>• >o (O t-, X i->.'o -9 n i\ I !>. t^ ei I « n ■* III X r> »i I •«■ i-« t) Max. Min. oxos©i,.C;ior)x©(N intoionc'i— j •wi/sioxoooaai.inTf (M « !■> i~. « « .), 1 ^ « in 1 '£> « A 2 In. _JL f r^ca : «J * ? 9 5-^ « = 3 « >i 5 r^ The winter of Upper Canada, although even not at present severe, is htcoming milder every year, as cultivation extends. It is a great error to suppose that the great Lakos, Ontario, kc. are frozen over ' CLIMATI;:. 20-. X at any time : they are always open in the centre, frequently exhihitinp; a beautiful and striking phe- nomenon, during the inclement season. By reason of the water being warmer than the circumambient atmosphere, an evaporation resembling steam, may be observed ascending in every variety of shape, in clouds, columns and pyramids, with uncommon grandeur and magnificence, from the vast surfaces of Ontario, Erie, Huron and Superior, as if from so many boiling cauldrons. The chain of shallow lakes which run in an east and south-easterly direction from Lake Simcoe towards the midland district, are seldom frozen more than inch thick until about Christmas, and they are again open before April. The earth in Ujjper Canada is not generally frozen at a greater depth than from 12 to 18 inches, and the snow rarely l.es at a greater depth than from 18 inches to two feet, \mlcss when drifted. It is very seldom that the roads are permanently fit for the use of the sleigh or carriole, before the second week in January, and they are again broken up by the end of Alarch : this shows the duration of sharp frosts and snow : in fact a labouring man may, if he chuses, work at all times out of doors : whereas in Lower Canada, at the more northerly stations, it would be impossible so to do. There are several remarkable phenomena in the climate of Upper Canada, hitherto unaccounted for — one of these is termed — The Indian Summer, which almost uniformly commences and terminates in the month of Novem- \ ■ \ i J \ 206 THE CAXAUAS. J 1 ii ; ber, when the weather is deh'ghtfully mild and serene with a misty hazy atmosphere, though the haze is dry and soft, appearing to rest chiefly on the horizon. In the evenings of the Indian Summer, the sun generally goes down with a crimson flush on the western heavens : the temperature is ex- ceedingly grateful ; and the feathered tribes, who, instinctively seek a southern region on the approach of the rigorous winter of the north, avail themselves of this delightful season to prosecute their journey. Accordingly at this time, the rivers and lakes of Upper Canada may be seen covered with innu- merable flocks of wild fowl. Another very extraordinary meteorological phe- nomenon is that which may be denominated the tertian intervals. The greatest intensity of frost is always remittent at the end of the third day, when several days of mild weather succeed j thus the ex- treme severity of the winter is never felt more than two or three days at a time. Owing perhaps to the distance from the sea, and the absence of saline particles in the atmosphere, the climate is so dry, that metals rust but slightly by ex- posure, even on board vessels navigating lakes. Hence iron bolts are used in ship building, instead of copper. As the country becomes more settled and cleared, the winters are less rigorous and snowy, and agues and March fevers disappear. The people think, and observation justifies the popular opinion, that when the water rises to a great height, the season is unhealthy. In 1815, the waters of Lake Ontario, f CLIMATE. W7 ■which had been annually rising, rose higher than they had done for thirty years, and the season was unhealthy. In several districts, j)articularly in Nia- {jara, peaches and other fruits of a warm climate arrive at great perfection. The healthiness of the (limate is indicated by the roses on the cheeks of the children of the peasantry ; and the general ap- pearance of the people is very different from the sallow leaden hue of |he inhabitants of the United States, or indeed of the Lower Districts of Quebec. M 1 ^ s:o8 TIIK CANADAS. i! ii } i r CHAPTER IV. POPULATION OF THE f \NA.nA8 FROM THK EARLIEST PF.RIOH. AND CLASSIFICATION OK IT BY DISTKICTS AND COlNTlKs*, ACCORniNO TO TKK LATEST CKNSUS. Canada, as well as the other portions of the Ame- rican continent, was comparatively densely peopled by a dark race, termed Indians, when first discovered by Europeans ; and as colonisation extended, the coloured population was destroyed by the whires ; somewhat, 1 regret to say, after the mtn^ner thrit the Norway rat annihilated his less forniid;:ble com- jieer. It does not, however, fall within ihe L;i.'()i)e of this work to enter into abstract disquisitions, or to offer speculative opinions as to the orig'n of the Aborigines of the North American continent ; ^ suffice it here to observe, that the wars between the French and English in Canada, and the United States, hastened the destruction of the Aborigines ; a very few of whom still exist in the Lower Province, while their numbers are decreasing- so fast that, in a com- paratively brief period, the far-famed Indian race will probably be extinct. * From a coincidence between the usages of the N.A. In- dians and Asiatic tribes, particularly the Tartars, it has beon supposed that America was peopled from Asia; but the affinity in language, religion, architecture, customs, &c. between the Mexicans and Polynesian nations, is really very remaikable. '^08 TUK CANADA8. ill \''\ I i 'r (■ t! I CIIAn'ER IV. POPULATION OF THE C \NA.I)AS FROM THE KAKMEST PF.KIOD. AND CLASSIFICATION OF IT BY DISTRICTS AND COLNTIE*, ACCORDING TO TUK LATEST CENSUS. Canada, as well as the other portions of the Ame- rican continent, was comparatively densely peopled by a dark race, termed Indians, when first discovered by Europeans ; and as colonisation extended, the coloured population was destroyed by the whiles j somewhat, 1 regret to say, after the m:ii ner that the Norway rat annihilated his less forniid ille eom- jieer. It does not, however, fall within ihe oooih' of this work to enter into abstract disquisitions, or to offer speculative opinions as to the origin of the Aborigines of the North American continent;* suffice it here to observe, that the wars between the French and English in Canada, hiid the United States, hastened the destruction of the Aborigines ; a very few of whom still exist in the Lower Province, while their numbers are decreasing- so fast that, in a com- paratively brief period, the far-famed Indian race will probably be extinct. * From .1 coincidence between the usages of the N. A. In- dians and Asiatic tribes, j)articularly the Tartars, it has been supposed that America was peopled from Asia ; but the affinity in language, religion, architecture, customs, &c. between the Mexicans and Polynesian nations, is really very remaikable. i w [IK w ; I iliMi I x— ^ ^ ■*"'*» r -• -ttrmm-t Mb .mu.^tm* ■■• Kor Monition II rv ,\t;ii (Mr*^ Mir^imv of lh<' Urihsli ('oImmu*^ .O'WKU CANADA ..'/, ^hSJl.ir.l _i^ „, ,, H ,1^ i hirt.l KntjtuH HH'-ji I- \:,. ^htt.tlt A lUtli^t ^ ■i/F'^fcr •••'7 /«■ > '?Vt^ V ft- l:V^*-^ ■v-Li*"""'" / ^K .♦,%.. -.- •3.1' > < ^ I-.. S J<.i-'*'""'V«' Av--':: «-^;^|^"- ill W'- i^ "'"IJ^* ., Vf^ /^^ III.' H'l'^l <:.*> 1. (.f-imii'li III I'lMl.thcJ /■•, li Hiriiifhih;- .{■ c'.h.Milil.i l.,lu /.,mi/in /VfA 'r\-['\% isli (°ii|i>Mi>>s l\>HN«'HHi. V Ki.m.....l ■•• > ^ ' » i ! .h.Miin.i l.,t„ /■'iiiliii JAIfi .„„tM^Mkjiiii^iM WK^I^.-:-'!^^^^^-^'-'''^^-^ tim liiH w i s I "•t^fffftH^ POPULATION", *209 The earliest European census of Lower Canada took place in 1622, when Quebec, then a small vil- lage, did not contain more than 50 persons. A gene- ral capitation took place in 16'76, at which time there were 8415 inhabitants. The raj)id increase of late years, is evidently theeftect of emigration from Europe. Several interesting particulars iire gi\en in the census of Lower Canada for 18;U ; in the present case I give the following brief abstract : — Quebec District contains 13 coimtios, vi/.Beauce, population, liOOOj area in square miles, lODf. Bellechasse, p. 13,. 520 j sq. m. 1775. Dorchester, ]). \\,[)A(\] sq. m. 348. Lslet, p. 15,518 3 sq. m. .'i()44. Kamouraska, p. 14,557 ; sq. m. 4320. Lot- biniere, p. 9151 ; sq m. 735. Magantic, p. 2283 ; sij. m. 1465. Montmorenci, p. 3743 ; sq. m. 7396. Orleans, p. 4349 ; sq. m. 69. Portneuf, p. 12,350 5 scj. m. 8640. Quebec, p. 3<),173 ; sq. ra. 14,240 , Rimouski, p. 10,061 j sq. m. 8840. Saguenay, p. 8385, sq, rri. 75,090. Total p. 151,985. sq. m. 127.949. Montreal District contains 19 counties, as fol- lows : — Acadie, p. 11,419; sq. m. 250. Beauhar nois, p. 16,857 ; sq. m. 7 17 Berthier, p. 20,225 ; sq. m. 8410. Chambly, p. 15,483 5 sq. m. 211. La Chenaye, p. 9461 5 sq. m. 299. La Prairie, j). 18,497 J sq. m. 238. L'Assomption, p. 12,767 ; sq. ra. 5(K)8. Missisqui, p. 8801 ; sq. m. 360. Montreal, p. 43,773 ; sq, m. 197- Ottawa, p. 4786 j s(j. m 31,669. Richelieu, p. 16,149,; s(j. m. 373. Rouville, p. 18,U5; sq. m. 429. St. liyacinthe. |). 15,366 , sq. m. 477- Shetford. p. 5687 \ sq. m VOL. I. F •I I 1 . i -n -■"i ' i 1 t V I i ^ ,;f ■ t r il 11 .,^:.^ 210 THE CAXAUAS. :ii !!, ■)1 i! M ;. ;■; 749. Terrebonne, p. ]C>,6'15 ; sq.m. 3169. Two Mountains, p. 20,905 ; sq, m. 1080". ^'aud^euil, p. l.'i,ni; sq. m. 3.S0. Verdieres, p. 12,3 U)j sc|. m. 198. Stansti'ad, p. 10,30f) : sq. ni. G32. Total pop. 2!K),050 sq. m. 54,082. Three Rivers District contains six counties — ( hamplain, p. 6991 ; sq. m. 783. Drummond, p. 3566 ; s(\. m. 1674. Nicolct, p. 12,504 ; sq. m. 487. St. iMaiirice, p. 16,909 3 sq. m. 9810. Sher- brooke, p. 7104 ; sq. m. 2786. Yaraaska, p. 9496 ; sq. m. 283. Total pop. 56,570 ; sq. m. 15,823. The character of tlie Canadians partakes of the source whence they spring — if of French descent, levity and servility gi\ e i)lace to easiness, or rather mildness of miinner, combined with a manly ])ut yt't respectful freedom of deportment : the descendants of the English lose the rusticity and boorishness of their ancestors ; and with abundance of the neces- saries of hfe, and leisure for tlie improvement of their minds, the natural saturnine character of the British is relieved vith a pleasing buoyancy of spirits, and enthusiasm of action. The offspring of the origuial French inhabitants, forming seven-eighths of the pojiulation, deser^ e a few special remarks as to their habits and manners. The mass of the people are proprietors of land to a greater or less extent ; and the ecjual division of pro- perty, on the demise of a parent, contributes \o spread a large mass of floating industry and capital over the country. Thus possessed of the means of a condbrtablc existence, and freed from the dread I k i I rOPULATlOK. «>ll of future want, the Ciuuidian enjoys a life of pleasni^ toil, and evinces by the haht^onicneh.s of his heart, and the hospitality and sociability of i)is nuinncr-o, the blessings derivable frt>m an enjoyment, on !io harsh terms, of the necessaries of life. The true Canadian, although fond of pleasure and social happiness, is rather a sedentary beinji:, and of u staid, often sombre deportment , peculiarly at • tached to the locality which gave him birtli ; devoted to the religion in which he was educated, and sin- cere in his respect for those whom he considers his superiors. Altliouf-h unlettered liimsclf in the European sense of the term, the Canadian is ever ready to pay his tribute of respect to those who pos- sess mental endowments — the more so if literary at- tainments be accompanied by moral worth ; with a mind deeply imbued with early prejudices as to reli- gion, country, and institutions, yet charitable to a con- siderable extent towards the feelings (or what he may term, tha failings) of others ; polite, without ail'ceta- tion ; generous, without parade ; slow to otVend ; quick to resent an insult, yet ready to forgi\ e ; warm, nay, enthusia-^tic in his friendship ; in short, fuHilling- with a sacred iidelity every social duty, which the obligations of society im})ose, the Canadian may, with all the faults and imperfections to which hu- man nature is liable, be justly esteemed one of the finest specimens of our race, and as olTering a de- m(»nstration how much the originally noble charac- ter of man is debased and depraved, by the poverty and starvation which cr\i'h to the eartl), in misery (-1 I I ■ 1 1' ' I ' $ I .' r ik ■I i ill .jH M 'J ji i. ' \ I (i I ! t f '212 THK ( ANADAS. and vice, the greater part of tlie Etiropean coni- innnit^. I should he guilty of an unpardonable omission, were I not to refer to the delightful characteristics which distinguish the fair sex among the Canadians. It is a common remark, tliat a man of sombre mind en- joys most keenly the society of those who are cast in a lighter mould; accordingly nature, following out her own arrangement, suits the softer sex to the other, which has indeed the shew of ruling, but in fact often submits to a j)]casingdespotism, and wears its silken fetters. It is thus with tlie Canadian ladies, who, though in appearance, only charming toys, are cap- able of wielding supreme controul over their sterner lords. The beauty of a Canadian is peculiar — neither English nor Frencii, but combining the more exquisite elements of eacli : she possesses more of vivid emotions than ideas, and tliough deficient in the nervous intellect of the Scotch, she exhibits the ardour of the Italian, and tlie vivacious archness of the Parisian : the quick and varied impulses of her inward soul are mirrored in the pi(|uant ghmce of her dark, expressive, and passionate eye, whose lambent lire is ever kindling into llame. Wonuni are generally good judges of character, and severe scrutinizers of their own sex : I may add, therefore, on the testimony of a lady, I believe, (if I mistake not the style, and tone of sentiment of an anonymous correspondent), who has penetrated the mysteries of female society in Canada, that the Cuiadian fair sex are i)assionately fond of finery POPULATION. 'Z\:i an com- and society ; that their wit is s))arkling, and in cori- 'itant exercise, more satirical than sarcastic, deHa:ht- ing rather than wounding, l)vit withal remarkable tor a kind of t^ood- naturod maliciousness. All who have visited the Canadas will aijcree with me in the remark, that society there is extremely agreeable,— freed from unnecessary forms, jz^iving t«) life an .air of ds in abundance, home made linen of eKCcllent texture, everv neces- sary variety of culinary utensils, and liomely, strong, and often handsome furniture. Around the house is a garden laid out. without the formal regularity of an English Injrlieuhurist, but abounding in fruit and vegetables, the rearing of which devolves on the women of the familv ; whose taste is often displayed in the smjdl patches of ilowers which appear to grow wild, but n'allv are raised for the purpose of enjoying that delicio\is luxury, which the rudest people seem to feel in \iewing .ind scent- ing ' tljc lilies of the field. The farm lies around the house ; and at a greater or less distance, the river or lake furnishes an ample sup])ly of the tinn\ tribe for a cuisine, always abundant, often luxurious : while the rich m;q)le yields a large store of sugar. for the preservation of their luscious summer fruits, throughout a long and dreary winter. In line, the peo|)le of Lower Canada possess u bold spirit of independence, and a j)ohte dignity which makes the poorest peasant ap])ear a gentleman ; m their behaviour to strangers, the cut of a coat, or style I ■[ ;& i 5 ! i: ! [ i . i»' » ^*t » ;' > .-«»<^*!>»*T-».-fc--ryi- I *216 THE CANADAS. of an eqnipago does not influence their demeanour , a species of deference is paid to a superior, which neither debases the one, nor exalts the other ; an inferior is not treated with rudeness because 'le is poor, for if they cannot reheve his poverty, they do not insult hirri : their bravery has been evinced on various occasions, in resisting the encroachments of the Americans, and in the cause of England ; and may England never give so fine a race of people reason to repent of the conKdence promptly and generously bestowed on the British nation. The Upper Canadians are a different people from the French hahiians of the Lower I'rovince, the former being generally of British or American birth or descent. The earliest European settlers in Upper Canada, were some French lamilies, who settled near the banks of the Detroit and on the St. Lawrence, previous to the British acquisition of the province ; after which period, the settlements of Europeans or of loval inhabitants from the United States, beiran to be encouraged. In ISOr; the population was estimated at 70,7 18, in 1811 at 77 AMH) 3 but the war with the United States tended much to check the prosperity, and with it the increase of population in the province. According to some returns before me, the number of malesand females stood in the following years thus -—1821, m. G5,7t)SJ, f. 5f>,7 05— total iy,2,.587; 18^28. m. f)9,40T>, f.89,()9:i— t. 188,5583 1830, m. 151,081, f. HH),38(;— t. '251,'4(J7, I 'j. POPULATION. 217 Happily, however, some more comph'te docu- iiu'iits than the foreg;<)infj; are in my ])Ossession, wliieh are the only returns funiislu'cl by tlie Colonial Ortiee, to tlie statistical department of the Board of Trade. The Population of I'ppor Caiuula deduced from the Returns to tlic Ht'ust; of Assemblv, 182U. 1H27. ' 1H:io. 1833. Ifirrra>-C' DISTRICTS. irilOyi'ur.'*. Kastcni . . . . 1H71) l)^.»is 21H)-I 222W6 74*17 Ottawa . . . . •2560 3IM3 •»4.'»f> <);U8 :t78-< .)olir:str)wn .. 14741 16719 2l!«il '27'K,H I7.2tiS Home )6()0y 212y5 :(2871 47ti;.o :{«K:>-t Gore l:n57 134S:l 2:<6,'i2 :mh20 isf>77 Niagara . . 17A52 iy6i»« 2ltj7-l 24772 7220 I,oiirion . . . . l7r.:70 2:t4H():. 1 1 JHH ■\xM') Total. . 1 7r)0.").')44 14". 147 The increase of European, and European descended popvilation, duvint^ the ten years previous to 18.i.3, was I'45j4l7 : this is exclusive of the Indian popu- lation, whose numbers, though fast diminishini;', amount, accoiding to some estimates, to 28,000. Mr. McTaggart, the engineer, collected in IS^S, the following data of the Indian population through- out North America : he does not state on what au- thority he gives these figures, and it is difficult ti) place reliance or the number he mentions, namely, u])wards of two millions and a half. I give Ins statement without further comment than the ex- pression of a hope that it may be true, and that every li ! J > ' t i: i\ I - n ;! I I ! ,_ ' ! 1 1 s TIIR CANADAS. i^ Ihi 1 I effort ^vill l)c made by the Europeans, to preserve from further destruction, so fine a raee as the Nortli American In(hans, of \vhoin I rei;Tet my limits for- bid my giving a historical account. 'Hie folh)\vinir will shew the increase of male and female population scj)ararely at two periods, and the extent of land occu])icd and culti\ ated in I8l'>2 liritish Pnssf'ssions. — Natives. — Lower Canada, jr>0O, Upper Canada, '0()<), Cape Breton, 4(M)0, I'rince Kdward,-. Island, 3()(M), Newfoundland, 4(M)0, Anticosti, 30, Labrador, Mit\0, North-west 'JVrri- tory, '2H.^i,O0(», Hunting,- Ground of the Hudson's liayC'ompany, G.'> 1,000, Esquimaux Count ry,.S4, 000. Total, l,09r,(JS0. Possessions of Unifol Stoits. — Natives. — Indiana, ]24,(M>o, Louisiana, lS(;,00O, District of Colombia, 'i'^ri.ooo, Michigan Territory, 2^.,0tK), Misst)uri Ter- ritory, 54,(MK), Mississippi Territory, '21,000, North- west Territor), 6*'2,000, Illinois Territory, .5000, in theother 18 States, 815,000 Total, \,r>lG,0(K):'' * Some of the laud in I'pjXM Cr.nada has boon purt'liascd liy the British Govt, riiniont finin thc' hniiaiis, who receive their paynients annually in elotlun-^, ainimmiticni, Sec., and such articles as they require. Son\i' of tin recent purcha.ses vere, in October 1^18. L')J,000 acres, at 1,200/, per aniumi ; the \fis.si.ssau'i"i ')-ls,000 acres, at .■)22/. per aii- 'lum. In November same year, tin Ricf Lnkf of \,HGl,20{) acres, at 740/. per annum; in April, 1^19, the lA'n0, the Mohawk purchase of 27,000 acres at 450/. per annum; being 4,()S0,3'J0 acres, at an annual '-barge of 3, .'^12/., which is de- frayed by an np|)ropria1iun of j)art of the amount received for fees on the grants of land to emigrants. II POPjr.ATION. 1\\* z -M « c r 3 i~« 2 ^ c • •• A •/> •n ^ O ^i T > ? ;- "■ o — JD .-* ^* if ~ , o / J= c ^ c C 4-> X /> VC "W) ~* c • C 5 It '^ i3 •w 7IS o x: > «- l/l _3 '>i' U o y 4J •« C*! Hi X ■3 $ 04 c f. Ji ■M C 0^' 'Jl « 01 O ^ ■4-J ^ 6C PL ^ r^ K - >> r- ■ ^ « o C^ 5; o .^ t; 4^ u * «i "5 • Vt c rs o iM 3, A ■1. ^^ +- :^ ic *-* o »" •« r*. tr •- tYi — ^, r>, — 5 r. I ?, c. Cft >•- m c r. - I , •-. — ri •M r^. — T I ^1 ■»! vc -f ■/- r; < f. -.c ; I r — =^ -r I- c s ti Ci a: •• 'c .1 >c X -< f - r: lO — 'C >r. -• .-, !?i I-, a c« . IT ^ o C .-•3 c -•OS r « wo a •c ■'. ■: I :-. /■ — ;:,— I ^ c ■^^ :i ■; r-< -^ t C. Tl 'C V — M S f ri :-.-• — -M ■-. X X w^ ir: »0 ■« fC ir> c»^ — . -^ »C — 50 I ^ CJ> n n r^ ir ri ri i ir; -» t • 3i •■; c r- c; i: -r. ri to •o M -• ni — v; o e ^5 t s. O — •»• « '.1 ~. — t-; i ;. Ti ■r r: -o ~ 1 » '~ - X -" — 1 - •-■; T. r- c •"! - '-. X X •• M I » •?! -c ■?' -" 1 •'— T — X •■= — ■ * Oi "r < ■• X s o f X c ?i X Ci •M 1 » ■'. /■ 1 ~ — jr. ?-. r ■£ C. 'O r-. =. — ■:i — — c. -M /: 'c iri 'O 1 ^ 1 - -. rh T 1 , — 71 1.- — .0 X - if. 'C •-, -C Tl X ir. r; — 1^ -i a'O X ~ M = 'C 1 ^ 1 •. -* — X 1 , c •»- c '^ •-■ T. 1-5 X ■-. — I ^-c '.1 'C — ••^ -i^ a T ri c -• I - a'C r; I » I -tc a ■o I -SOITJK M -- :r,'c t-. -r y^ T: -• X r. 1 - r — n = - — - ri a. = -'' — s X X 3. c. c r. — 1 » ;i a « - — t « 'M T M -o X I » r; o «— »>. 1 - a •M o X X — X X ?-. a X o 1 , 1 ■. X X X a •-; ri — •* 1 * t 7» X t «. a ir X --^ X 1 >» ri (^ -« lO t- •»■ 1> X « Ol X ?J a ■^ '^ c -. ;*• c - « O bo I ' « V i i « I I ! 1 ' ^ 1 i )■ > ^1 i ; 2^0 THE tANADAS. In consequence of the increasing interest felt in England regardini:^ evcrythina,- relating* to the (Ja nadas, and especially the upper province, where so many persons have now near rehitives and frit-nds, and also i>n account of the field for emigi.ilion which those colonies present, I think a more de- tailed view of the statistics, ^:c. of eacli district or country will be acce})tabk: to my readers. I begin, therefore, with the eastern district, which lies along the .St. Lawrence, as the traveller proieeds from Montreal towards Lake Ontario. 'J'he following re- turn regardin*^ the district in question, was printed by the House of Assembly in 183.'i. The Eastern district is formed into three counties, and these again are subdivided into 12 townships ; viz. in Gleyigarrij Coiintij : — Lancaster, pop. "^SO, amount of property rateable, 28,7'U)/. } Charlotten- burgh, p. 457<>; prop. 58,0" 1J». Kenyon, p. 1573 ; prop. l\,(}\bL Lochicl, p. 2152 j prop.26,12!>. — Total p. 1(),.531 ; prop. 128,132/. Stonnufit County : — Cornwall Town, p. 1017; Ditt() i'ownship and Itovborough, p. 3539 ; prop. 6(>,\H5l. Finch, p. 413 5 prop. 410*9/. Osnabruck, p. 2313; prop. 3(),S()8/.— Tot;4 pop. 7312 ; prop. 95,9(J2/. Dumlax Couniy : — ^^'illiamsburgh, p. 1586"; prop. 25,887/. Matilda, p. 1448 : prop. 17,237/. Mountain, p. 707 ; prop. 6708/. M'inchester, \). 181 ; prop. 1345/. Total pop. 3922 , prop. 51,177/. The district com- mences at the boundar) lines se^jarating I pi)er and Lower Canada, and runs along the St. Lawrence, with part of Lake St. Francis (an ex]>ansion of the mf^)/nHt I jJitytkiUmfttyttliittfi^^^Vf^-f ; f Pi)PU NATION. ^'21 urji. St L.'ivrence), and the Loni; Saiilt rapid* in fn)nt, until it readies tlie adjoining- distriit of Johnstown ; inland it is bounded by the Ottawa district. A raniie of elevated table land eotnitieMces at L()< hie! and runs diap)n;dly to the townsliii) of Matilda, whence it pai^ses into the adjoininj;- district. The .soil is rich and well-watered, cidtivated and fertile , some of it has been granted to discliar^ed S(-ldiers, a i^ood deal to theeliildren of New Knglftnd loyalists, and the Canada Company possesses some lots in it. * While this shoot was going to pnss, I ivcoiveil uifornia" tioii from Canada, that the Ainoricans contLiniihvti' an ii»i |)rove;iieiit, on their own .side ot the river, of tlir navigation of St, Lawrence past tliese rapids. The following' is tlie eoinimi- nicatioii alluded to, and it contains pn)of of the ever active mind of our neighbours- — "The Grass River is iiownavigahle I'v steani-bonts, from where it empties into St. Lawrence to within about three miles of the village of Massi'ua. Front this point, on the Grass River, there is a deep ravme of low land to within about half a mile of the head of the Long Sault itapids ; tills half mile would require a deep cut, through a clay bank, of perhaps .?() or 10 U'ct, and probahlv not more tlian two locks would be required 0.1 the entire route, which !.- only about five miles from the St. Lawrence to the Grass River. The St. Lawrence is already navigated by a steam- boat, on the Canada side, several miles below the point where this proposed canal will enter the St.' Lawrence ; and tlie legis- lature of L'pi)er Canada made an appropriation last winter, for a canal round the Long Suult Kapifls, which will probalily cost tea times a.s much as the one now alluded to. This inq)rove- ment wcjuld bring the entire carrying trade of the .St. Law- rence through this channel, and extend facilities to the American side which can never be enjoyed by our Canada iieiehbours." I I ii ! i i I 1 Ii 1 I •!■ ) ; ' " ; It - ■" 'JO i 1 I •222 THE CANADA8. The district in the rear of the one just described, and bordering on the south shore of the Ottawa, from the llideau River to the St. Lawrence, is termed the Ottawa district ; its statistics are as foHow : — Prescott County : — Ilawkesbury, E. pop. «33 ; (no returns of rateable property in the Ottawa dis- trict.) Flawkesbury, W. pop. 1410. Longiieil, H55. Alfred, 11*2. Caledonia, 311, Tlantagenet, (313: — Total, 4164. Russdl County: — Clarence, pop. U25. Cumberland, 1101. Ciloucester, 6*53. Osgoode, 11)8. Cambridge^ (no return.) Russell, 37. Total, 119.9. The returns for the Ottawa are not complete ; it is, however, but thinly settled ; the lands are good, but low and marshy ; along tlie Kideau Canal cul- tivation is progressing;, and as civilization increases, those very lands which are now considered useless, marshy soils, will become the most fertile sections of the country. The district Avhich follows in the official docu- ments is Johnstown, which lies along the St. Law- rence to the westward of the Ottawa and Eastern districts, and through the centre of which the Kideau canal passes. ^ .. The only returns I have been able to obtain are as follow : — Leeds County: — Burgess^ pop. 301. Grosby, N. 185. Uitley, 1071. Yonge, -2894. Leeds and Lansdowne rear, Sl'2. Elizabeths Town, 4350. Bastard, IS'25. Grosby, S. 5:4. I^eeds and Lans- down Front, 10'25, Elmsley, IO70.— Total, 14,1 '20. I':. r ■«'«-.'-»^«fiMt-' 1 f i POPULATION. 2'Z'6 Greni-iUe County : — Oxford, l'29'i. Edwardsbiirgli, 1584. Wolford, 11'21. Gower, S. 616. Mon- tague, 755. Gower, N. '245. ^^:lrlb(lr()llgh, 445. Augusta, 4091. — Total, 10,171). The total of rate- able property for the two Counties, amounts to ^281,090/.; Assessments, 1171/. The soil in .loLnstown is gcncrallv }J,<)od, and it is advaiitn-f . jsly situated. 'I'he district on the north, bounded by the River Ottawa, is called Jiathurst.an idea of whose progress may be formed from the following table ; — Carleton County: — N'epean,]). 2810: prop. 20,031/. Goulburn, p. 191.'} ; prop. 17,927/. Mareh, p. 426 ; prop. 0*115/. Torbolton, [). 9G ; prop. 15(J2/. Fitz- roy, J). 327 ; prop. G413/. Al'Xab, p. 318; prop. 2751. Huntley, p. 1031 3 prop. 9252/. Pakenham, p. 408 ; prop. 3880/. 'J otal, 7329 ; i)rop. (;7,931/. Lanark County : — Beck with, p. 2217 ; prop. 18,387/. Drummond, p. 2172 5 pro[). 25il35/. liathurst, p. 2019} prop. 10,470/. Sherhrooke, N.,p. 2(>2} prop. 2342/. Ditto, 8., p. 98 ; prop. 11 79/. Dalhousie, p. 1019; prop. 11,(J0T/. Lanark, p. 1845 j prop. 16,676'/. Kamsay, p. 1775 j pi'op- 16,470/. 'J'otal pop. 11,707; prop. 111,326/. The townships on the Ottawa, N. W. of Jialhurst district, are in great demand : lumberers now go 150 miles beyond Lake Chat ; and as the Ottawa has few rapids to the northward, towards its junction with Ldve Nipissing, we may command a lihorter eom- jnui;icali«)n between Montreid and Gorpana I'ay, and Lake Huron, tlian we now have through LakCvS Ontario, Erie, and the Detrc/it, with the great I \ i\ i n I i»»iiiiiti f ; prop. 98,.568/. The five districts now detailed may be considered as forming the eastern section of the province, and present generally a moderately elevated table land, declining towards its numerous water courses ; the timber of the forests is large and lofty, and of every variety. The soil, though moist and marshy in many places, is extremely rich ; consisting chiefly of a brown clay and yellow loam, admirably adapted to the growth of wheat and every species of grain : the rivers and lakes are extremely numerous ; of the former maybe mentioned as the most rem vrkable — the Rideau, Petite Nation, Mississii)pi ,md Mada- waska, which have their sources far in the interior, generally to the westward, and whi( h fall into the Ottawa : the (iannano(|ui, Raisin, Catf.raqui, Napa- nee, Salmon, Moira, and part of the Trent discharge themselves into the liay of Quints and tb;^ St. Law- rence : these streams, besides fertilizing the lands through which they flow, atford, many of them, con venient inland comnmnications, and turn numerous grist, carding, fulling and saw mills. Besides numerous lesser lakes, there are the Ri- deau, (iannanoqui,VVliite, (Henderson's) iSIud, Devil, Indian, Clear, Irish, Loughborough, Mississippi, Olden, C'larendon, liarrie, Stoke, Marmora, Collins, Blunder, Angus, and Ossinicon. There fire many roads throughout the section ; the principal one is along the St, Lawrence, between Montreal and Kiqg VOL I. u ff « ^ 1 I i I 236 THE CAN ADAS. i ^ ston, traversing Cornwiill and Lancaster, through which a hne of stage coaches run between the two provinces, every lawful day, when steam-boats cannot travel. Kingston, the maritime capital of Upper Canada, has to the westward, the fine Quinte tract, in a prosperous state of cultivation. By-town, in Nepean, on the south bank of the Ottawa, is most picturesquely situate ; as is also Kinncl Lodge, the romantic residence of the High- land chieftain, M'Nab, on the broad, bold, and abrupt shore of the Lake of Chats. Perth is a thriving vil- lage in the township of Drummond, on a branch of the Rideau, occupying a central position between the Ottawa and ISt. Lawrence. There are several other rising settlements, which it would be impossible for me to enumerate. The central section of Upper Canada embraces the large districts of Newcastle and Home— -with a frontage of 1'2() miles along Lake Ontario, in 44.30 Lat. and stretching back northerly to the Ottawa, Nipissing Lake, and French River in 46.30 north Latitude. The division and statistics of Newcastle are thus — Northumberland Counttj : — Hamilton, p. 2SJI ; prop. 57,337/. Haldimand, p. 1857 ; prop. 31,067/. Cramaghc, p. 1905; prop, 25,1*25/. Murray, p. 17383 prop. •20,944/. Percy, p. 377 ; prop. 5349/. Asphodel, p. '265 ; prop. 34 10/. Otonabee, p. 862 , 11681/. Douro, p. 571: prop. 5328/. Smith, p. 753 ; prr)p. 8099/. Eimismore, p. 254 ; prop. 177'2/. Monaghan, p. 850 ; prop. 10,114/. Dur- ham Count 1/ : — Hope, p. 2'i;^i , prop. ;i4,7l9/. ' ^ >>i i »i ' ^«*t» POPULATION. 227 Clarke, p. 919 ; prop. lOJGl/. Darlington, p. 1098 J prop. 13,741/. Mariposa, p. 208; prop. 194U. Eldon, p. 406 ; prop. 2965/. Ops, p. 545 ; prop. 5126/. Emily, p. 1095 ; prop. 7704/. Cavan, p. 2173; prop 20,769/. Total, p. 8716; prop. 97,726/. The soil throughout this large district is generally good ; and though the population is large, compared with other districts, there is yet abundance of room for more settlers. It is well watered by the Rice, Balsam, Trout, and (Jther lakes, and by tho Otana- bee rivers, part of the Trent, &c. The e\tensi\e territory adjoining Newcastle, with its N. W. extre- mity resting on Georgiana Bay (an inlet of Lake Huron) is termed the Home District ; it contains the capital of Upper Canada, Toronto (late 'V'ork), and its statistics are as follow for I8:i4 as regards the population, and for 1832, in reference to the other parts. York County. 1st Riding .-—City of Toronto, p. 9174 ; prop. 95,628/. Township of York, p. 3544 ; prop 51,879/. Vaughan, p. 2861 ; prop. 27,787/. King, p. 1672; prop. l.'i,904/. Etobicoke, p. 1290; prop. 17,023(. Total pop. 18,,541 ; prop. 2()6,2^il/. 'U Riding: — Township of Toronto, p. 4990, To- ronto Gore, p. 183 ; rateable property in tiie two latter Townships, 50,257/. Chinguacousy, p. 2728; prop. 22,562/. Caledon, p. 1233 ; prop. 9483. Albion, p. 10.50 ; prop. 9587/. Total pop. 9<:24 , prop. 91,889/. 3^/ i^0/, Innisfil, p. 40G ; prop. 59G/. Tiny and Tay, p. 401 j prop. 3110/. Vespra, p. 236} prop. 1912. Essa, p. 1(>7. Flos, p. ?0; prop. 407. 'J'otal pop. 7737; prop. 42,651/. The central section of Upper Canada does n';t fall short in fertihty, either of the east or west portions of the province : it is well watered, the Nottawa- vsai^a, Holland, Musketchsebe, Beaver, Talbot, and Hlack Rivers fall into Lake Simcoe ; the Credit, Etobicoke, llumber, and Don Rivers flow into Lake Ontario. There are exc'ellent roads throufj^hout the section ; a canal is projected through the Home Dihti'ict, to connect Lakes Huron and Ontario. To- ronto, the capital, is rapidly improving- . in 1833 its population was — Males above 16, 2,597.— Females above 16, 2,155. Males under do. 1,404. — Females under do. 1,317 4,001. 3,47^ In tlie suburbs — Macauley town, 558 — from Os- g'oodehull, where Macauley town ends, to Farr's POPULATION. 2'2<) brewery, Lot-street, 4(X) ; from the eastward of King-street to the Don Bridi^e, taking in all about the Windmill, ;i()<), making a grand total of 8,7 ;il. The next section of the province is termed th<.' Western ; it embraces tlie Gore, Niagara, London and Western Districts, and, circumscribed as it is by the waters of the great Lakes Ontario, Erie, and Huron, it may be considered a vast ecjuilateral, tri- angular peninsula, with its base extending from Fort Erie to Cape Hurd, on Lake Huron, measuring 'iH> miles, and a perpendicular striking the Detroit river at Amherstburgh, of about 195 miles in length; witii an almost uniformly level, or slightly undulating sur- face, except a few solitary eminences, and a ridge of slightly elevated table land in the (lore and Niiigara districts, averaging lOO feet, and at some points ap])roaching to 350 feet in height, 'i'he whole tract is alluvial in its formation, consisting cliietly of a stratum of black and sometimes of yellow loam, above which is found, when in a state of nature, a rich and deep vegetable mould. The substratum is a tenacious grey or blue clay, sometimes appearing at the surface, intermixed with sand. Throughout the country, there is an almost total absence of stones or gravel, within the greatest arable depth, but numerous and extensive quarries exist, which furnish abundant supplies f(»r building, kc. The forests are remarkable for the steady growth and the rich foliage of their trees -. in sevi^ral places immense prairies or natural meadows exi>t ; extend- ing for hundreds of miles, and with the vista delight- fully relieved by occasional clumps of oak, white I ': i « i f' 4i i i w i u « i i. 28,571/. Bertie, 215!); prop. 31,8.^(1/. Mam- ford, p. 1403 ; prop. 30,568/. (iranlham, p. 24.54 : prop.38,240/. Gainsborough, p. 12.52; prop. 18,068/. Louth, p. 1157j prop. 18,287/. Poiham, p. 1106; prop. 19,433/. Crowhmd, p. 841; prop. 13,165/. Willoughby, p. 569; prop. 11,8.52/. Mumbcrstone, p. 1554 ; prop. 13,012/. Wainfleei, p. 842 , ])rop. 11,516/. Gainsborough, p. 292; i)n>p. 6613/. Claistor, p. 329 ; prop. 4385/. Total, p. 22,412; prop. 361,434/. Hald'imand Counti/. — Kainliain, p. 340; p. op. 6119. VValpole, p. 480; prop 5347/. Haldimand, p. 421 ; prop. ()152/. Moidton, p. 528; prop.4619/. Total, pop. 24, 1 81 ; prop. 22,2.37/. It will be perceived from the forcproing, that in this comparatively small district, the (juantity of land in cultivation, and ainotuit of rateable property, are very large in proportion to what may be ob- .served in the other districts ; there is still however a large quantity of uncultivated land in Niagara. The scenery throughout this part of ( auada is extremely picturesque. Fort George, or Niagara, is the sea port (if it may be so called) of the dis- trict ; — the fort is strong, and the neat town all bustle and gaiety, owing to the frequent arrival and departure of steam boats, sloops and other vessels. I now shew the population and extent of the large territory termed the London District : — Norfolk County : — Charlotteville, p. 1460 j prop. 22,016/. Windham, p. 930 ; prop. 10,833. Mid- dleton, p. 361 ; Houghton, p. 141 ; prop, of the i^wtLn^ . j W | < n ti i< ij n » >» <( „ | ■'--»ir.- .'*V1^^--' : V- -«« 252 TIIK CANADAS. two latter, 5563/. Wiilsingham, p. 790 ; prop. 1)245/. Townshend, p. 1847; prop. 25,813/. Woodhonse, p. 1298; prop. 19,427/. Total, p. «827 ; prop. 92,897/. (hford Couniij .—Oakland, p. 490 ; i)rop. .5«92/. Nissouri, p. 725 ; prop, 7431/. Norwich, p. 1977 ; prf^P- 21,493/. Zorra, p. 1801 ,• prop. 9780/. Blenheim, p. 91<) ; prop, 83(j5/. lilandford, p. 214 ; pro]). 84;>/. Oxford, East, p. 5(»8 ; prop. 44 1 1 /. Dereham, N . p. 193 ; Dereham, S. p. 1 43 ; property in the two latter, 2757/. Hurford, p. 1302 ; prop, 14,8r;4/. Oxford, W. p. 1141 ; prop. 13,714/. Total, p. 9170 ; prop. 89,352/. Middlesex County: — Malahide, p. 194S ; prop. 21,113/. Delaware, p. 212 ; prop. 20(;o/. Ekfrid, p. 406 ; prop. 3038/. Williams, p. 251 ; prop. 379/- Westminster, p. 357 ; prop. 18,583/. Lobo, p. 684 ; prop. 5789/. Bay- ham, 1871 , prop. 20,866/. Dorchester, p. 1576; prop, — . M(»sa, p. 690 ; prop. 5545/. Aldborough, p. 637 ; prop 5433/. Caradoc, p. 650 ; prop. 3824/. Goderich,p. 874. Southwold, p. 2404 ; prop.26,704/. London, 41.52; prop. 34,32.5Z. Yarmouth, 2676; prop. 25,524/. Dunwich, p. 564; prop. 11,417/. Biddulph, part of, p. 70. Adelaide, part of, p. 718. Total pop. 20,616 ; prop. 184,600/. This immense district has the advanta^^e of a great extent of water frontier, along the shores of Lakes Erie and Huron, besides a large portion of the Thames, and the river Ouse on Lake Erie, and Aux SabV.s and Maitland on Lake Huron. London, though at present small, is in the heart of a fertile country, on the banks of the fine river Thames, and will no doubt rapidly increase ; — who can say but %kk' ■VlW* A»fcFN,BH»J»^ ^^ J. -- ^ f POPULAriON. '23. i that at some distant (may it be far distant) day, the modern liabylon may he reduced to a heap of ruins, and its celebrity and fame be revived across the VVestern Athmtie. About the central part of the north coast of Lake Erie, the eccentric, but honest and phihmthropic Colonel Talbot has founded a settlement which re- ticcts credit on his head and lieart. Ever since the year 180^2, this benevolent man has jjersevered in openinjLj^ the line country around him to the English emigrant, 'i'he Upper Canada Conifjany have their land in this district. 'J'he scenery around which, on the river Maitland, is more English-like than that of any other in America. Extensive roads are now making in every direc- tion, and the London district oifers a most eligible spot for the consideration of the intending settler. IVestern DistrirtCensun. — Townships; — Sandwich, males 1 17«, females 107^2. Maiden, m. fi85, f. 606. Colchester, m. 351, f. 31(J. Gosheld, m. 141, f. 350. Mersea, m. 179, f. i/O. Maidstone and Ro- chester, m. 178, f. 148. Tilbury and Romney, m. 231, f. 161. Raleigh, m. 350, f. 341. Harwich, m. 2S7, f. 175. Howard, m. 444, f. 408. Oxford, ra, 189, f. 16*3. Camden, m. 98, f. 71. Dacon, m. 163, f. 127. Zone, m. 154, f. 101. f;hatham, m. 143, f. 143. Dover, m. 357, f. 318. Sombra, m. 165, f. 139. Walpole Isle, m. 38, f. 37- Moore, m. 76, f. 82. Total of inhabitants, 10,687- The total amount of rateable property, is 134,874i. In addition to the foregoing, I have a return of the population of each parish in Upper Canada, to r I -.ii - ^ii ^m »i o o ^ .«>;miM>.^H.^#p. ..Mtw fM»r-.«*-*-iW-. i^r. ^M>-*«M4,4K«MM«llMpf)l'<^4ei^^'' 'i:n TriE CAXADAS. each of which there is h 4()8 ; Williamsburgli, 2(K)3. Bat hurst (lit to.— Perth, '2442 ; lieckwith, 2250 3 Hichmond, 137'i; March, U;()4 ; (ioulburn, unknown. Johnstown ditto. — lirotkville, 4195; Prescott, 3087 ; Vonge, &c. 231)2 ; Oxford, 1052. Midland ditto. — Kinu;ston and township,<>lJ37i Hath, Ernest own, &c. 3470 j Adoiphus Town, (J17 j Hnl- lowell, 3313 i Belleville, '267 G ; Murray, 1314. Newcastle ditto.- Cohur^, 2420 ; Port Hope, 1757 ; Cavan, 1777 j Peterborough, 0"52. Home ditto. — York and township, 8750 -, Toronto, 2752 ; Mark- ham, 3411 J Vaughan, 1724. Gore ditto. — Ancaster and Barton, 2027 j Hamilton and Dundas, 1597 ; Brantford and Indians, 2756 , Grand River, 987 ; Ciuelph, 821. Niagara ditto. — Niagara, 2890 j Chippawa, Stamford, and Queenstown, 1532 ; Grimsby, 1398 j St. Catherine's, 2770 ; Fort Erie, 2082. London ditto.—St. Thomas, 1900 ; Wood- house, 1067 i London, 3360 j Adelaide, 457 } Ca- radoc, unknown. Western ditto.- — Amherstburg, 1228 ; Sandwich, 2213 ; Chatham, 249. The foregoing detail will afford a more complete and accurate view of the progressive state of the colony, than pages of descriptive writing j the reader will perceive the increase of population in each dis- trict for a series of years, then its actual amount at present — the quantity of land cultivated and occu- pied by that population, the stock on the land, and the value of the property sunk in it. Nfes-. ■^ r - ■ ••-•-■iilW iiiMaihilinhih-iT'"'^-^- POPULATION. »235 If. u o o C r> in »(» — v. r> — a i^'O •» — w -" •- 31 K ?i e — * ji >i — — — >« '83 (1 0)8 JO •- M — « 9t K « »>. * — »« — - TI » r: "S M — -• ?^ s n X >fl — -. — ^ J4 — ^ -• ?i ?1 t ?t « e-, -, :^ — S ■s^snoii JO iB^ox in w 'TI •* s ■» "> irt ?i » "O c r; ^ s >•■: i t ^ t r-. re 'C ?! Ct ri r) I » X »>! -r — TI -i " — Ik ?< — ?i "- Q. S o •soowid-oju lBU(j[)ippV •83JJI>18 7, 'OHOIS ao >io]jq 'oiuBj.i •8.)DBid-oji; jBuomppv •XJ04S 1 '300)8 io ]ia{JU •saoB((I-ajg fBUOlitpPV ?! I, f -. — oi r; « rs s> M — >o J4 « •" -r >- •83U0)9 S japiin ouiBJ,-! •S3|JO)S Z •jaqmii 3JBnI>S •S9.1B|(l-.Uy I^aoiiippv •XivJ^S I « "f ■M _ 1^ ..» «l o T « ul S ■^ Tt. *• r^ o T — M " -» « ^ ri — -^ W ■N ^^ OD 1 'a »l •0 !>. © "* M mo -» S ^ « ^ 5" to -f ^^ .f ^^ t^ c 8 ec .4 o Tl •t« *0 •> p» C^ J» - Ul t , 35 Ol 51 t>. 31 S l» -• •» — >~ p) i I - o JO -f r« •4 _• — _ _ — »» ul I - -• 5i C lO i-! 5» — T. re »» irt -• -• a> ato — — a> ato tp •X "« CO pj — >-< rt 3 _. !0 - C X C I ■» 3. X ^ f — X >r 'O ^> ?i — 'C I ~ in — Ti ?J -f r; 1.T •-• r« : : c ■ : ^ : '*' — *- e - O /I - •/; :P§S CO 00 ■* a I »,.,„^=:'':.i»*>' i 236 THE CANADAS. I have given, in order to render the view com- plete, the preceding table of the number and de- scription of the houses occupied in each district, the sort of houses (indicating comparative stages of wealth), and even the additional Hre-places, which luxury or convenience may require ; also the num- ber of merchants' warehouses and stores, the num- ber of different kinds of mills, and the vehicles kept for pleasure. Let those who peruse these facts re- member that, the comforts and wealth thus pro- duced within a few short years, arise from the united labours of Enghshmen, Irishmen and {Scotchmen, who have transplanted all the virtues of their proge- nitors to the forests of America, and left behind them most of the vices which disgrace their native land. In concluding this section, I sluUl only add that all who have visited Upper Canada unite in then- commendations of the hospitality, frankness, and industry of the farmers, and the urbanity and gentle- manly demeanour of the upper classes, whose num- bers are by no means so few as might at first be supposed, <23r CHAPTER V. ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE KINGDOMS, ftcC, — STAPLE PRODITCTS Of THE CANADAS. Thf. New World, when discovered, was found to possess few animals, and those neither large nor dangerous to man. Some are peculiar to the Ame- rican Continent, but it is probable that many species have become utterly extinct. I may advert briefly to a few, which however a few years more of ex- tended colonization and civihzation will utterly extirpate. The Moose Deer is the largest wild quadruped of the continent — being in height seven feet, (exceed- ing a tall English horse) and weighing from 10 to 12 cwt. : the large palmated horns, the immense downcast head, a short neck and thick body, give it a savage aspect ; but the animal is timid and inof- fensive, even when attacked by the hunter. The upper lip, called the mouffie, is very large, broad and pendant, and the hoofs sharper (uid more stiff than tliose of the rein-deer, somewhat reseml)]ing the camel's ; its nostrils are very wide, the upper jaw is without teeth, and the legs are so long, and the neck so short, that the animal cannot fjraze, but hrowhcs on the leaves and young shoots of trees. The male is larger than the female, the latter with- » i «.--,%i 238 THE CAXADAS. out horns, and with shorter and lighter coloured grey hair, mixed with reddish — going eight months with young, and bringing forth from one to three at a birth. The moose, like the sheep, is easily do- mesticated — it is not gregarious like the other species of deer, but generally the male, the female, and one or two fawns accompany each otlier : the Hesh is exceedingly delicate and nutricious, and the skin valuable for its softness. There are a great variety of common deer, but the elk is now rarely met with. The Cariboo is distinguished from the moose by ha\ing brow antlers, which are rounder than the horns of the latter, and meet near the extremities. It is not so tall as the moose, and is of such ama- zing swiftness as to be with difficulty caught. The American Elk is the largest of the deer kind, and the skeleton is somewhat similar to those dug up in the bogs in Ireland ; his horns are palmated like those of the moose, but consist of three divi- sions — 1st. the brow-antlers — ^2nd the middle prongs (called the lighting horns) — 3rd. the horns properly so called ; — he sheds them annually, when a pith is left, which soon becomes protected by a cover re- sembling velvet, and in eight weeks, the horns begin to grow again, and soon attain their usual size, which on a young animal of Upper Canada was thus measured : distance between the root of the horns, four inches ; brow-antlers, one foot six inches ; fighting horns, one foot six inches ; longest horn, three feet four inches ; from the tip of one horn to another, two feet .six inches. The size of the elk, AXIMAL KINGDOM. 239 on wliich the foregoing measurement was made, was from the snout to the tail, seven feet three inches ; height, four feet seven inches ; belly girth, five feet six inches ; withers, four feet ten inches ; length of the head, one foot eleven incties — of the ear, nine in(?hes ; and from the tip of one ear to the other, two feet two inches. There are a great variety of deer, some weighing nearly 3(K)lbs. The Musk Ox somewhat resembles the buffalo, and is found principally in the arctic regions. Both the iMusk Ox and the Bison are varieties of the domestic cow, with a rough covering of hfiir, and great strength and agility suited to their situation. The B ison, which inhabits the western regions, is now seldom or never seen near the British settle- ments J he is shy and fearful of man, unless when wounded, when he turns on the hunters -, he is in appearanre somewhat like an immense bulb (weigh- ing sometimes "i.WOlbs.) of a brown colour, with two short black round horn^, elevated shoulders, short and thick legs, naked stumpy tail, and the forehead, the chin, neck and dewhip, covered with long flocks of woolly hair, which give to him a savage appearance. The Wolf somewhat resembles an immense dog, of a dirty sallow or grey colour, with a black line .'dong the back ; in weight, he has been known to exceed 90lbs. the length of the body is live feet, ex- clusive of the tail, which is one foot six inches ; the circumference of the animal is two feet nine inches, and the fore legs, each, one foot six inches — • - ' ••Wfl ^\o THE CANADAS. u long. He is very voracious, committing consider al)le depredations on the sheep-fold, and howling in concert most hideously ; but the Canadian settlers and their dogs are fast exterminating the race. Wolvereens are common in the Northern territories and very powerful animals. Hmts are numerous — generally black, (ex('C|)t towards Labrador and Hudson's liay) and of greater si/e than the Euroj)ean uniirial, having been known to weigh more than 4()<)lbs. Although carnivo- rous, they are timid, unless when wounded or hun- gry ; and in default of sheej), |)igs or other flesh. they feed on nuts, })erries, corn, &c. On the ap- |)roach of the cold season, the bear, without making any provision for winter, retires to a hollow tree or cave, where, according to the vulgar opinion, ho sustains life by sucking his paws — the fact is. Bruin sleeps through the frost and snow months, and comes forth with the return of spring, to recruit his famished strength, and get fat before the revolving solstice again sends hun buck to a fasting dormi- tory, — which is prepared with sticks and branches, overlaid with a coating of warm moss. The bear is exceedingly strong ; the largest will climb a tree like a cat, and they possess all the cunning of the fox, with a deal of the instinct of the dog : they are dexterous in catching smelt and small lish that abound in the Canadian streams, — the inmates of ant hills are frequently de- voured wholesale bv their arch-enemv, and the honey of bees is a temj)tation so irresistible, thai Bruin often risks being stung to death or madness. ■<*• ANIMAL KINGDOM. 241 for the sake of gratifying his sweet tooth. The black bear will seldom or never attack man — indeed the Indians say that as soon as he hears the human voice, he scampers off, knowing full well that the armed biped is more than his match, with some villainous gunpowder. The flesh of the bear is palatabh', and the ham considered a delicacy. The female is very seldom taken when with young, and it is said that gestation takes placci^ in the winter re- treat of the animal. Fores are numerous, ahd equally cunninj; as their European brethren ; their prevailing colour is a very bright red — some are jet black, others of a silvery grey, and in the polar regions, while , when hard pressed for food, the last-mentioned, it is said, will prey upon each other. Hares are abundant, and turn white in winter as in Norway. The Racoon somewhat resembles the fox, with head and teeth like the dog— of a brown colour, with large and greenish eyes, surrounded by a circle of black. The tail is round, bushy, tapering to the end, and annulatcd with several black bars : the fore-legs are shorter than tiie hind, both armed with sharp claws, enabling the animal to leap from tree to tree, like the sipiirrel, with surprising agility : it is often tamed, and the fur is preferable to that of the beaver. Martins and Wild Cats are numerous ; between the two a deadly enmity exists, the former, which resemble the weasel in api)earaii(;e, often killing the latter. VOK. I. B J ! 1 ! 242 TIIK CAXADAS. Porcupines, Squirrels and various small animals with fine furs, under different names, are abundant in America. The Beaver, forming the connecting link between quadrupeds and fish, is numerous in North America. 'J'he length of this singular amphibious animal is about two feet nine inclies, with very short fore feet and divided toes, while the hinder are membranous, and adapted for swimming ; the body is covered with a soft glossy fur, the tail is oval, scaly, des- titute of hair, and one foot long ; — it has sixteen grinders, eight in each jaw, four front teeth, called incisors, of which the two uj)per are truncated, and excavated with a transverse angle, and the two lower transverse at the tips. With the incisors, trees of soft wood are cut down, of the diameter, it has been said, of eighteen inches — while the trun- cated grinders serve to break hard substances. The instinct of these animtils, which prompts theiu to unite in communities and live in houses of their own construction, is well known j their habitations are built in ponds, or running streams ; when build- ing in the latter, the sagacity of the beaver enables it to choose a place easily dammed, which they ac- complish by cutting down wood of the requisite thickness, (about eight inches in diameter,) placing the palling up and down the stream, connecting the stakes with mud, and finally cementing and coating the whole with a mortar made of twigs and a tena- cious clay, using their tails as trowels, with all the expertness of a ' free and accepted mason.' When the dam is constructed, the beavers proceed to erect I ' 't'&W ..^u ANIMAL KINOUOM. •243 ?- \ their cliateau, which is generally two or three storit's high, with walls of five feet thick, on which the hist coating of mud plaster is not jtut, until the frost sets in, by which means it is frozen so hard, that the wolvcreen, their great enemy, cannot break through ; and the house is so ccmstructcd, that the upper lioor is above the level of the highest Hood, and perfectly dry in the worst of times, while a sluice is 'eft to carry oil" any surplns water, * The tree.-i which are nearest the water are chosen to furnish building materials, and cut in such a maruier that when they fall, it will be into the stream, so that I hey may be readily floated to the spot where they are wanted. St)me of the large houses have several apartments ; but generally each family of beavers has its own house, thongh they all labour together in rearing the common edifice. The shape of the beaver-castle is oval, and so well roofed in as to be perfectly water ])ioof. When the beavers build in a pond, they do not form a dam, but select a situation which will admit (»f an open passage from the cellar on the shore or river bank, to the water under the ice, in which several breathing holes are kept always o])en. Tlie wirter food, consi^ting of poplar logs, pieces of willow * It is a remarkable circumstanfv that tlie threat wild rnea- f'ows, or savannahs of America, have been caused by the beavcr- liunis which, by covering the ground with water, destroy the Ueos and bushes, and form reservoirs for the melted snows and i'utumnai rainb to deposit the rich particles of the soil swt-pt from the high lands. May not this account for tlie large prai- rif s found totally destitute of trees ? 1 i - '244 THE CAXADAS. ''i ulder, ^c. is collected in auiunin, and sunk in the water near the dwelling- lioiises, which they generally huild in places where a certain tliick root grows in the water or on the margins of lakes, and of which they are particuhirly fond. When the community of beavers increases, either by immigration or birth, — rendernig- an addition to their township necessary; or when from ])eini!:: disturbed by the Indians, or otlier enemies, they deem it advisable, after consul- tation, to shift their dwellini^s — the work of cutting down the timber, and preparing tlie new dam com- mences in the middle of summer, though they wait for the setting in of the frost, before attempting to complete the work. Such is the ingenuity of this extraordinary ani- mal j which, it may be added, is easily tamed, and of scruj)ulously cleanly habits, either in its own house or in that of man, and whose instinctive saga- city is so great, that when caught, or even when })erceiving the ap])roach of nn enemy, it gives a smart blow on the water with the flat j)art of it^ tail, in order to give the alarm to its companions. The Musk Hat, or Mustjiiash is amphibious, re- sembling the beaver in its hal)its, and is about 1") inches in length. It is said that in winter, when the ponds or rivers are entirely frozen o\er, the family of the musquashes build huts on the ice of sticks, rushes, and riuid, keeping a hole open inidcr the building, for the purpose of getting into the water for tish or other food. The O/i^r/- somewhat resembles the beaver, but it- ccth are like those of the dog : it does not build likt . t a: ' lAL KINGDOM. •245 the beaver, and is said not to be an ampbii)ious jinirnal in the true sense of the word. There are several other ainphiijioiis animals in E. America of which we know Uttle or nothinjj: , amoni; these is the Walrus (sea Horse or sea Cow) which h.'is now deserted the shores of the ti;ulpli of St. Lawrence, and is only to be met with on the north coast of Labrador and about Hudsonss liay. In shape, the walrus is somewhat like the seal, but of ^rcat size, a full grown male wei^hin^,- 4,(M)<)lbs. Thev are gr( i;;arious, extremely attached to their young, in defence of whom, or when wounded, they will u^e their formidable tusks with terrible effect ; but they are unable to defend themselves out of the water, and when attacked in this situation, set up a most piteous and heart-rending- cry, or rather howl. Birds. — The coldness of the climate of Lower Canada is unfavourable to an extensive variety of birds : many of the feathered tribe arc birds of pas- sage ; and in general they differ little from the birds of the same name in Europe. There are varieties ot the eagle, hawk, owl, crow, woodpecker, swan, goose, duck, gull, pigeoi , plover, partridge, snipe, and grouse, and also of many of the smaller winged race. The plumage of the American birds is far more splendid than that of their congeners in Knro])e, but the latter are compensated for their want ot brilliant exterior, by the rich and varied melody in which they «urpass their transatlantic namesakes. Many, if not most, of the birds of Lower Canada are migratory . the wild goose, duck, teal, and such K I I > [ ■ i \ 'Zir, THE CAN/.DaS. tribes, leave Canada, during tlie summer, for more northerly anc! (.oolor regions ; wliile the nummer birds mii^rate southerly during the |)eriod of intense cold. There is good shooting in Canada ; but it is pur- chased at an expense of great hardship, and no little danger, amidst the lakes and forests of the uncul- tivated countrv. Most of the birds are reckoned delicacies, in particular the wild pigeon, of a beau- tiful blue pluinage, tinged with shades of green, red, and gold, and whose numbers are so great as to darken the sky for miles, when annually migrating towards the North. In Upper Canada the native birds are numerous, and tht)ugh differing in some instances, and in some respects from those of England, they are popularly known by the appellations of turkey, goose, swan, (luck, brant, water hen, pheasant, partridge, quail, pigeon, eagle, hawk, raven, vulture, crow, owl, whip-poor-will, (so called from its cry) bat, swal- low, robin, lark, heron, pelican, gull, snipe, plover, diver, kingfisher, black and bluebirds, jay, mocking bird, woodpecker, cuckoo, sparrow, snowbird, wren, humming bird, with many others j all indicating that the emigrant need not fear being deprived in America of the company of his usual feathered war- blers or water birds. There are snakes as in England, but few of a ve- nomous nature ; many of them are exquisitely beau- tiful. The intelligent and patriotic traveller, Mr. N. (iould, has favoured me, among many other valuable communications, with the following observations on tht. rattle-snake of North America. The rattle- <■£-«» ■■-.. '■ ANIMAr, KINGDOM. ^247 snakes arc caught with cleft sticks by the Indiaiii«, who instantly cut off their heads before they ha\e an opportunity of biting themselves, and afterwards use them for food. It is universally acknowledged, that cold weather weakens or destroys their poison- ous qualities, and that in the spring, when ihey come forth from their places of torpid concealment,* they are innocuous till they h?ivc got to water ; and at that time, they have so strong and jieculiar an odour, as to cause sickness to those who hunt them. In some i)arts of Ohio they are still numerous, and in a few spots of Upper Canada ; but to tiie generality of Americans in the long settled parts, and to the Canadians, they are as rare as to Europeans. There iire some persons who doubt their fascination, but others, who have paid much attention to the subject, .^peak positively of this power ; one gentleman indeed asserted tbat^ in a swamp, near his house, he used to kill numbers, being led there by seeing the black- birds (a species of the starling) flying rpecies of bass : the perch weighs about a pound, and is a good pan fish ; among the other species are dace, chub, carp, mullet, suckers, billfish, lake herrings, and eels ; the latter are not caught, I believe, be- yond the Falls of Niagara, where they may be ob- served endeavouring to ascend the slimy and per- pendicular rock, where il is over-arched by the water. The manner in which the fish are caught in Canada has been thus described : Those living on the borders of the numerous lakes and rivers, are provided either with a light boat, log, or what is by far the best, a bark canoe ; a l)arbed fishini;; spear, with light tapering shaft, about VI or IG feet long, VKOKTABLK KINGDOM. '249 iind an iron basktt for holdirii^ hurnini:; pint* kn(»f«, and capable of boin«»; susporidrd at the head of the boat, when fired. In the calm evi nine;? after dusk, many of these lij^hts are seen sti'ulin^ out from the woody bays in the lakes, towards tlie best lishing i;ronnds, and two or three canoes tot^ether, with the reflection of the red li^ht from the clear green water im the bronzed fa( es of eitlicr the native Indian, or tile almost as wild liackwoodsman, compose an ex- traordinary scene : the silence of the night is undis- turbed, savebytheiiurgling- noise of tiie paddles, or the sudden dash of the sj)ear, followed by the strut^i^les t)f the transfixed lisli, or perhaps the characteristic "Eh," from the Jndiun steersman. In this manner sometime 50 or tU) fish, of three or four jxHinds each, are speared in the course of a night, consisting of black bass, white tish.and sometimes a noble mos(pie- nonge. A little practice soon enables the young settler to take an active part in this jjursnit. The light seems to attract the Hsh, as they thickly con- gregate round it. But few tish are caught in this country by the fly : at some seasons, the black bass will rise to it. Vkgktable Kin(;dom.* — The vc*getafion of Ca- nada is as varied as it is beautiful ; it will be suffi- cient, however to detail the loftier species of timber, which forms the staple produce of the colony. In the low and light sandy soil, almost every species of pine is produced, together with cedars and swamp * The necessity for brevity has comiK-Ucd a curtailmont (jt this section ; but in those Colonies where the Vegetable King- dom is an object of greater interest, the subject will l>e niore largely treated of. \ I 250 THE CAN ADAS. ash ; the dry and more elevated land yields oak, elm, ash and birch of various kinds, as also maple, walnut, chesnut, cherry, hiccory, hazel, iron wood, thorn, kc. but the pines and firs are monarchs of the forest. I avail myself of a description by another hand, of the beautiful family of the Coniferie. Spruces. — Pinus Balsajiea, L. — A beautiful evergreen tree, in open situations feathered to the ground, .ind rising in a pyramidal shape to the height of 30 feet or more ; and, on these accounts, much planted for shrubbery and park scenery in Cireat Britain. The famous Canada Balsam is pro- cured from this tree ; it is found in small blisters in the bark, extracted by incision, and received in a limpid state into a shell or cup. Perhaps there is not a better varnish for water-colour paintings, than that which is prepared from this liquid resin. The branches of this, as well as the hemlock, are used by the Indians, and Canadian voyjigers, to sleep upon. In thei. winter voj'ages, they scrape the snow into heaps with their snow-shoes, making a kind of snow wall on each side of their lair, then strewing the ground willi branches, wrap tliemselves in thei-- blankets ; and thus sleep, when the thermometer is many degrees below zero. In this way, between two Indians, did Captain Thompson sleep, in h's unsuccessful attempt to overtake Captain Franklin in his artij journey. Pi'xus Canadensis, L. — A large tree, with beauti- ful foliage, in some degree resembling yew, vying in magnitude with the Pmus Strobus, or white VEGETABLE KINCDOif. ^51 pine : it is an ornamental tree, coveting dry sandy soils. The leaves have the flavour of juniper-berries, and are occasionally used by the country i)Cople to make a pi'isunne. The bark is greatly used for tunning leather, even in preference to oak bark. I'iNUH Nigra. — A middle-sized tree, tall, straight aud taper j the foliage dense and dark. Large tracts of swamps are seen covered with this and other evergreens, giving them a dark dismal aspect, hence called black swamps, or bhickwood lands. From the spray of this tree it extracted the essence with which that wholesome beverage, spruce beer is made ; and the Indians turn to a valuable account the slender roots, for stitching the sheets of birch bark, of which their frail-looking, but invaluable canoes are made. The root is merely slit lonj^itudi- nilly into strips as thick as packthread, moistened, twisted, and applied : tVie sewing is then payed over with resin extracted from the pine-tree, or its knots, by bailing them in water. t'iNUS Alba. — A tree very similar to the preced- ing one ; but its foliage neitiier so dark in colour nor dense, having a blue cast ; growing in drier soils. From this tree chielly the Indians collect the gum with which they pay the seams of their bark canoes j it exudes on the surface, and at the knots and wounds, whence it is taken and melted, to free it from impurities. Pixus Resinosa. — A handsome tree of large growth ; bark scaly, and of a reddish cohjur. This tree is the glory of Canada ; it grows on liglit and sandy soils throughout the country ; competing in 4iri*«iiii>«<»^«itii II 'i52 THE CANADAS. ^ ! every respect with the yellow deals of the north of Europe, The timber, in colour, quality, and dural)ility, ap- pears to be in every respect equal to the best Riga , and in one particular superior, viz., that of being- more free from knots ; which in some j)arts of tlie country, particularly in Scotland, gives it a prefer- ence over Baltic : there is still, however, much pre- judice to overcome. Pixus lUxKSiAXA. — A small tree, rather shrubby, but varying in size according to the nature of the soil. PixLs RiGiDA. — A tree of large growth, about tiie size of the red pine, said to be a native, but certainlv of rare occurrence in Canada ; though abundant ii) some parts of the United States. So abundant i.-n its resinous quality, that the knots are incorruptible, and being found in considerable quantities in groves (onsistuig of this wood, they are collected by thf Americans, piled upon a stone luarth, covered with soil and earth, and set on lire in the same manner as charcoal is made ; the heat causes the tar to leave the knots, and to How over the heartii, by a groove cut in it for the purpose. The smoke of the same 11 res is condensed, and collected in wooden receptacles ; and thus by one process, are tar and Ian q Mat k manufactured. PiNus Skkotixa. — Little is known of this tree; it is said b} Purch to abound in the island of Anticosti. Pixus Sthohus, L — This tree, colled ir our English parks the U'cjjmoidli jn/ie, is the most ma- jestic of all the Canadian pines, and, with the excep- VECKTABLE KINGDOM. 253 tion of some of this family to be found iii the neigh- bourhood of the Columbia river, on the north-west coast of America, reported to be '250 feet hia;h and f)0 feet in cireumferenec, towers over all the trees of the forest, beins^ oeeasionally found of 150 feet in heit^ht, and 5 feet in diameter at the base. When i:;rowiniz: in open situations, it is feathered to the ground ; but, as uenerally found in Canadian forests, it is little more than an immense stick, with a quan- tity of brush at its head, in about the same projjor- tif)n as the hair on the tail of an eh'pharu. It is of this tree, that in general, the forests of all Hritish America are composed; and it is in fact })cculiar to America. It is called in commerce uliih pinn, jillou' pini', '>r Jrncricaii pint . The age to which this tree arrives is not Known ; 150O annular divisifuis have been counti'd. It has been remarked, both in the IJt\ited States and Canada, that in general the largest trees of this species stand bliglited or dead, as if the remains of more ancient growth, or bl;ist<'d b\ lightning. Perhaps, as has been generallv su])posed, the colder the situation, the slower the growth, and the stronger and harder the timber. Lakciirs. — Pixus 1'exdula Lh. — A tall ia|)er tree. The timber is straight, grained, and strong, and suited for spars of ships ; but inferior (o white and black spruce for that purj)ose, (i TIIF, CANAIJAS. and strong ; it grows in extensive groves near the banks of large lakes and rivers, sometimes found squaring to 50 feet in length, by two feel six in- ches,— its specific gravity greater than water ; and, therefore, when floated down in rafts, it is rendered buoyant with cross-bars of pine. It is easily squared with the hatchet, and answers well for ship-building and heavy work, — will endure the seasons for about 15 year.s, — and does not decay in Eniz;land so soon as in Canada. Another kind of timber, called the scruhbi/ oak, is much like the British gnarly oak, diflicult to work with t'jc hatchet, but of a very du- rable nature. The swdtnp oak of Canada grows in marshy places, — is full of branches, irregular in form, and soft to work : it is extremely hea\ y, and when water-soaked, useful in forming wharfs and jetties in sandy bays, where there are no stones, and where ])iles cannot be driven. The Birch tribe is num(.'rous ; the wood of the hetnla nigra is finely shaded, and su^:eptil)ic of a high polish : and the sap drained in March and April, from all the \arieties of birch, makes excel- lent vinegar ; or a pleasant weak wine may bt" ob- tained bv boiliriji,- atid fermentation. The American maple is a beautiful tree in all it.i forms J that called the linl s t///?, takes its name from its mottled hue ; the (urlvd maple is riohly shaded in tibres, admits a high polish, and forms the ornamental work ^o much admired in the American packets. It is from a variet\ of the maple {aci i sacchannioji), that tlie celebrated maph sugar is made ; the production of which, in Lo^/er Canada, VEGETAni.E KINGDOM. .'xmotints to about ^5,000 cwts. annually. The tree is large and shadowy, with richly tinted f()liai;c in autumn ; and its timber is valuable for its streuirth, weight, closeness of grain, waving fibre, and sus- coptibilit) of polisii. The sugar is extracted by evaporation from the sap, wl\ich it yields, abun- dantly, when the hark and wor)d are w(ring ; one tree yielding from a pint to two gal- lons per day. A plantation of maple-; is termed a svv.to, arid sells from '^d. xo 6(/. per pound. The vegetable productioiis of the Upper Province are nearly akin to those of the Lower; the forest trees most prevalent are beech, maple, birch, elm, bass, ash, oak, pine, hiccory, huttermint, balsam, ha/el, hemhxk, cherry, cedar, Cyprus, fir, j)oplar, sycamore (or button wood), while wood, willow and spruce. Many other trees and vegetal)le ])r()ductions would claim notice, did space permit ; I must conclude the section with observing, that all Euroj)eau plant.-, fruits, vegetables, grain, legumes, <^c. yield even in greater abundance than in the old world ; sarsajju- rilla, ginseng, and other medicinals, arc ])Uutiful ; but their virtues are as yet imperfectly known. Tobacco,"* hemp, hops, may all be r«'ared, in any quantity the mother country may require. • Tobacco was u'od hy the Indians in Canada, when disco- vered by the Europeans. Cartii-f, in his voyage to Canada of l.^af), describes, " a certain kind of herbo whereof lu s'lai- VOL. f. g J . ! »-'■ *" ■■*•- ; f f :258 TUB CANADAS. Staplk I*rodu(k. — The principal productions of Canjidu may be partly judged of from the foregoing statements : — the colony is as yet decidedly Jigricul- tural, the principal exportable articles which do not come under that denomination, being timber and ashes. The j)roduction of timber is very great, and capable; of being continued for many years : an idea may be formed of its extent frcmi the fact, that the ca- pital employed in llie lumber (timber) establishments and saw-mills in the neighbourhood of Quebec, i> .i;l,'2:)0,()()() : this sum is laid out in erecting saw • mills, forming lofx-ponds, building craft for the trans- port of deals, and forming a secure riding for the ships in the strong tide-w'ay of the 8t. Lawrence, while shipj)ing the tmibers. The lumber trade is of the utmost value to the poorer inhabitants, as it furnishes their only means of support during the severity of a long winter, particularly after seasons of bad crojjs (frequent in tiie lower provinces) ; and as it enables young men and new settlers most readily to establish themselves on the waste lands. There are manufactories of diflerent articles esta- mer, they nuikt- a jMOvision for all the year, making great ac- count oC it, and only men use of it ; lirst they cause it to he dried in the sunne, then weare it ahout their neekes wrajiped in a little beaste's .skinne, made like a little hagge, with a iiol- low piece of stone or wood like a pipe ; then, when they please, they make powder of it, and 'hen i)ut it in one of the ends of the said cornet or pipe, and laying a coal of fire upon it at the other end, sucke so long that they fill their bodies full of smoke, till tluit it cometh out of their mouth and nostrils, evi n as out of the tonnell of a chimney." — iiakluyt, iii. 224. STAPLE PRODUCE. 251) Wished at Montreal and Quebec ; soap and candles are now exported ; in 1831, of soap, 81,819 lbs., and of candles, 31,811, almost entirely to the other nor- thern colonies ; and the corn and Hour trade of Canada promises to be a great source of wealth to the colonists. Horned cattle, sheep, swine, &.c. multiply with astonishing^ rapidity, and the European breeds seem improved on being; transplanted to the y\merican continent. The (juantity of lish cauglit in the river and gulf of St. Lawrence, and in other streams, ■s very great, and the consumption of this diet is con- siderable, in consequence of the prevalence of the Roman Catholic faith. Fish oil is becoming an ex- tensive article of export ; as are also hides and horns. The peltry or fur trade has its outh.'t from the N. W. territories, through Low(,'r Canada. 1 hope to see ere long, tobatco, hemp, wool, wax, rape and other oils, among the staple products of this tine colony. The value of the pr()j)crty is thus estimated: — Annually created, \7,M7,()9()L; move- able,34,4 13,870/. ; immoveable,2'j,55f),.358/.; Grand Total, 78,387,924/. Lower Canada. — The census of lft31 gives the agricultural produce of the colony as follows: — Area of sq. miles, 205,9()3. Acres of land occupied, 3,981,793. Acres of improved land, 2,065,913. Minots of wheat, 3,404,750'. Do. of peas, 984,7.58. Do. of oats, 3,142,274. Do. of barley, 394,795. Do. of rye, 234,529. Do. of Indian corn, 339,633. Do. of potatoes, 7,357,416. Do. of buck wheat. I.J. • I ! ICO THK CAN ADAS. I()(>,0o0. Neat cattle, 389,706. Horses, 11 6,6ft(>. Sheep, 543,343. Hogs, 295,137. Taverns, 10.>.>. Spirit stores, 857. (irist mills, 395. Saw do. 7.r Oil do. 14. Fulling do, 97. Carding do. 90. Iron works, 103. Trip hammers, IS. Distilleries, 70. Pot and pearl ash manufactories, 489. Manufacto- ries eontainini:; machinery, ^'4. The numher of vships built in the Lower Province, with their registered tonnage, is — 18'25, ves. 61, tons 2*2,636; 1826, ves. 59, tons 17,823; 1827, ves. 35. tons 75-10 ; 1828, ves. 30, tons 7272 ; 1829, \cs. 21. t«>ns 5465 ; 18.30, ves. 11, tons 3059 ; 1831, ves.9. tons 32.50 ; 1832, ves. 13, tons. 3,9.52. There is a large quantity of domestic manufac- tures made in the colonv ; the looms are in number upwards of 13,0(M) : of Unen, the average quantity spun annually is 1,(){)0,(KX) French ells ; of llannel, nearly an equal amount; imd of woollen cloth, 1,150,{XX) ells. I cannot ascertain how much iron is produced at the forges of St. Maurice ; the qunntity however is considerable, and the metal is esteemed for it?, flexibility and strength. The American ashes (made from the residue of any burned plant, or tim- ber, growing at a distance from the sea shore) con- tain a greater proportion of real potash than those of Dantzic or Russia. In fine, it rests with FiUg- land to decide, whether the Canadians are to be forced to become a manufacturing people, or remain principally agricultural, and furnish us with* abun- dance of the necessaries of life, in return for our linens, woollens, and hardware. Instead of being -.n .nk)! I'tflrWIil'lill'lL liil'iiillliiat STAPLE PRODUCE. 2(51 supplied with tobacco from the United States, and with hemp, tar, and timber from the Baltic, we (ertainly ought to have recourse to this colony for these productions, for reasons dictated alike by nature and sound policy. .0^. \t> Ta IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) /. 4, 1.0 I.I ■50 ""^^ IWUJSfc mis £; lii 1.25 1.4 VA •* 6" — ► ^^ 7 J- em ^i 0/§ /A Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 il 6^ 1.4 ■' *•• -Vf'?^*•'**'^^^Vv*-»• -^>^.:^y-r 262 THE CAXAOAS. CHAPTER VI. THE COMMEnCE, SHIPPING, IMPORTS AND EXPORTS OF QUEBF.C AND MONTREAL; VALUE OF THE TRADE, WEIGHTS A.VU MEASURES — MONETARY SYSTEM — BANKS, ETC. ? i ?H.. Quebec and Montreal are the shipping ports of Upper as well as Lower Canada. The value of the Maritime trade is thus indicated for 1831 : — Imports from Great Britain, 96,803/., from British Colonies, 838,4 82Z., from Foreign States, 770,298/. Total, 1,705,623/. Exports to Great Britain, 987,694/., to British Colonies, 128,526/., to Foreign States, 79,292/. Total, 1,195,512/. The maritime trade of Canada may, in fact, be estimated at upwards of three millions sterhng per annum : the shipping employed in 1832 is thus shewn : Ships /ntwards— from Great Britain, 1821, Tons, 244,493. From British Colonies, 217, Tons, 26,652. from Foreign States, 18, Tons, 10,199. Total, 1056. Tons, 281,344. Ships Outwards,— To Great Britain, 892, Tons, 254,891. To British Colonies, 201, Tons, 22,388. To Foreign States, 5, Tons, 1254. Total, 1098, Tons, 278,533, Thus it will be observed that, there is an inward and outward tonnage, to the amount of upwards of half a million tons ! The following is a Statement of the Number of Vessels clearetl out at Quebec for the following Ports in 1833, 1834, 1835 : TS OF QUEBF.C /EIGHTS ANI> f ^ ports of ilue of the : — Imports 1 Colonies, 3/. Total, 987,694^., gn States, in fact, be terling per 2 is thus ns, 244,493. Dm Foreign 344. 18, 254,891. ;ign States, an inward pwards of isels cleared I, 1835: il . .J^,.l«B,*,,*'l{(-*.<**\.l»€»«.^- Vnv M<)iu^-nint-i;\ M, Mi ill's llisiorv ot ill*' IWilish . i nit ■"K~wO'^«^? . ax*".,*.' .rsr.i 1 11 11 f nor ..'^ * V a! ■;;jrUvt. ,1, jNipii.»iimI.it tip' !'>rili.sli . '< •nif> I'oNNfssinu.H 111 N. AnuTir;*. X 1 1 M.\r OK h.,ili..i, Mil. I I 70 Iciiptuli' W.nt ra li'rii liif.'iiwiih 77 ■/ii-d' ^v 'J Ji Whitbther .t- ^ *,/i ■ Maiia J.une J.ondon 1,V6. l)i;iwii V r.ii'a.i' 1-.I !■>■ .1 .'. < '■' Ml»-f ! MCiiK)*,^*.-.^**^ k, ^as. i(%» *«»(|*. , ^M^^'ff'^df.'kc'i&ir^iliil ai4it.-mm:^»m':Msm- if 3 V 1 / COMMRRCK. *2G3 London. Liverpool. Ships. Tons. Ships. Tons. lH33....0ct. 2.^ .... lO'J .. 38,8^8 94 .. 30,168 1834.... — 31 111 .. 37,723 113 .. 40,254 18r?5.... — 2(3 95 .. 32,134 140 .. 52,184 Loading — 21 .. fi,9>^9 21 .. 8,474 Clyde. Cork. Ditblin. Ships. Tons. Ships. Tons. Ships. Tons. 1833 Oct. 25.. 43.. 17,263 35. .10,767 51 .. 13,237 1834.... — 31. .38.. 17,000 42. .12,423 41.. 10.382 1835 — 26.. 45.. 20,622 19.. 6,270 24.. 6,070 Loading — ..9.. 4,092 7.. 2,265 3 .. 777 Belfa.st. Hull. Sunovrland. Ships. Tons. Ships. Tons. Ships. Tons. 1833 Oct. 25. .31.. 8,424 21.. 7,761 23.. 5,795 1834 — 31.. 44.. 12,211 34.. 12,363 20.. 4,924 1835 — 26.. 39.. 11,496 34.. 11,738 15.. 3,933 Loading ~ ..3.. 943 6.. 1,918 7.. 1,811 Having now demonstrated the amount of shipping and the value of the trade at Canada, I proceed to give the principal articles of import and export for 1832, in quantity, and not according to value. Madeira, gal. 22,327 ; Port. do. 79,592 ; Teneriffe, do. 94,227 ; Fayal, do. 110; SicilianandSpanish, do. 131,718 ; other kinds, do. 62,376. Brandy, do. 183,613 ; Gin, do. 60,520 ; Rum, do. 1,099,578; Molasses, do. 127,143; Refined Sugar, 1,655,348. lbs. Muscovado, do. 577,961, lbs. ; Coffee, 174,901. lbs; Leaf To. bacco, 125,774 lbs. ; Manufactured 147,109 lbs; Tea, 983,256 lbs. ; Salt, 287,436 lbs ; Merchandize, paying 2^ per cent, duty, 1,327,369/. The following enumeration of the articles (in quantities) exported from Quebec by sea, in the year ending 5 January, 1834, will indicate the importance of the Colony. •^264 THE CANADAS. ! I } I I I Quebec. — Ashes, pot, 7.179. brls. Do, pearl, 5)7.'j, do. Apples, 38f<, do. Beef, 390'.>, do. Ditto, half-barrels, 481. Beef, round and Tongui;s, lH,8H71bs, Butter, 20,936, do. Biscuit, 2HH0cwt8. Flour, 59, Oft 1 hrls. Fish, — Alewives, do. i',')l . Cod, r)()17 cwts. Herrings and Mackarel, .')7r> brls. Ditto, ITT) boxes. Shad, IIH brls. Salmon, IGl tierces. Do. .59 brls. Do. 23 half-brls. — Gr.mn -.—Wheat, 10fi,:}01 minots, Indian Meal, 470, brls. Oats, or Rye, 429, do. Flax-seed, 1.345 min. Oats, 0185, do. Ditto, 1882 bags. Pease, 1748 min.— Hams and Sausages, 43 kegs. Do. 10,884 lbs. Lard, 13,020, do. Pork, 10,118 brls. Ditto, 399 half-brls. Timber,— Ash, 1394 tons. Birch and Maple, 486 do. Elm, 11,528 do. Oak 20,125 do. Pine, 188,778 do. Broad Planks, 4804 do. Bat- tens, 89,478 pieces. Billets, 174 do. Deals, 2,083,302 do. Deal- ends, 69,865 do. Masts and Bowsprits, 770 no. Spans, 3104 do. Knees, 230 do. Oars, 17,973 do. Hoops, 77,990 do. Treenails, 23,756 do. Shingles, 37,1 00 do. Lathwood, 1940 cords. Staves, side and heading, 752,500 pieces. Do. Pipe and Puncheon, 2,939,049 do. Do. Barrel, 848,819 do. Deal-ends, 4574 do. Do. packs, 6426 packs. Handspikes, 13,028 no. Tobacco-leaf, 5890 lbs. Furs. — Beaver, 5490 skins. Bear and Cub, 264 do. Fox, 684 do. Fisher, 47 do. Lanx, 385 do Minx, 530 do. Martin, 4.536 do. Muskrat, 16,848 do. Otter, 729 do. Ra- coons, 4 do. Wolverine, 16 do. Castorum, 169 lbs. Seal Skins, 30 packs, Buffalo, 31 skins. The Maritime Exports for the same year (1834) from Montreal, which first became a port of entry in 1831, were as follows ; — Montreal. — Ashes, pot, Canada, 14,091 brls Ditto, United States, 1334 do. Do. Pearl, Canada, 4436 do. Do. United States, 3740 do. Apples, 107 do. Biscuits, 335 do. Bones, 2000 pieces. Butter, 103 kegs. Candles, 100 boxes. Cas- torum, 200 lbs. Furs AND Skins. — Beaver, 3811 no. Bears and Cubs, 537 do. Fishers, 249 do. Fox, 751 do. Lynx, 187 do, Martin, 8322 do. Minx, 2016 do. Musk Rat, 49,538 do. Otter, 1871 do. Racoon, 130 do. Flour, 32,218 COMMERCE. :(>5 m bris. Grain, Wheat, 547,357 minots. Poasn, IHC.do. Hides, raw, 2510 no. Beef, 1411 brls. Pork, l->fi6 do. Oil Cakr, 4K,000Ib8. Oars, ash, 1H1»9 no. Staves, W. I. 2 18, a.*?.", do. Do. Standard, 98,671 do. Do. Barrel, l."),044 do. Do. Fo- reign, 7197 do. TiMBEH. — Ash, 12.'> tons. Bircli, 7 do. Hasswood, 3 do. Kim, 203 do. Oak, 719 do. Pine, 1092 do, Boards, 28,171 piece.s. Deals, 64,788 do. Deal- ends, 5853 do. Planks, 782 do. Ilandsjiikes, 6020. Soap, 1 1 bo.\es. Tobacco-leaf, 14,000 lbs, I must refer to the largo edition of my " Flistory of the British Colonies," for more ample details of the trade of both the Canadas, of which the foregoing is but a brief outline. The progress of trade between Upper and Lower Canad^v may be judged of from the rapid growth of Prescott, on the St. Lawrence, in the route from Montreal to Kingston, and distant from the former 127 miles, and from the latter 62 miles. In 1815, the largest vessel employed for the transit of mer- chandise between Kingston and Prescott, was one schooner of only 40 tons burden. In 1833, there were 14 steamboats of different sizes, from 30 to .500 tons J and 50 schooners from 40 to 150 tons. These are employed between Prescott and the ports on Lake Ontario, besides a number from Lake Erie, whose tonnages we could not ascertain. Th- -.gis- ter tonnages of the steamboats and schooners ai ount to 5,647 tons ! This speaks volumes in behalf of the resources of the upper province, as well as of the industrious and enterprising spirit of its inha- bitants. The number of buildings in Prescott, in 1815, was barely eight houses j in 1833 it contained nearly 300 excellent buildings, some of which are 266 THE CANAOAS. not surpassed in size and elegance of structure by any in the province. Its population in 181 5, did not exceed fifty. In 1833, it numbered fully 1,40<). Such is the rapid protj;res.s of agricultural improve- ment in Upper Canada, that she can .su))ply the whole population with every kind of food, without importing ; while the export of her raw and manu- factured materials pays for all foreign luxuries, and leaves a balance in her favour. Her exports of wheat last year were 69,948 bushels ; and of wheat flour 48,S09 barrels. This year her exports will nearlj double those of last year. I'hese are cheering pros- pects. Although the yearly increase of her popula- tion, by emigration smd otherwise, has, for some yearf past, been great, yet it has not kept pace with the in- crease of her trade. Since 18*25 the forwarding trade at Prescott has more than doubled, every three years. From these facts we should infer that the pojmlation must be in prosperous circumstances. In 1815 the entire pof)nlation of the upper province did not exceed 40,fXK) souls : in 1 833, it exceeded 300,000 j having thus, in 18 years, encreased more than seven-fold. In 1815 the business done was little more than no- minal J at present it almost exceeds belief. In reference to a topic now under discussion, I may observe that one of the most important branches of our commerce with the North American colonies is that in timber. This trade has, in our own pos- sessions, a fixed capital employed in it to the amount of 5,150,CX)OZ. sterling, sunk in saw mills, canals, wharfs, warehouses, &c. ; it enables the colonies to receive the vast immigration which has been pouring / > COMMERCK. 967 no- into them from the mother country j — it provides the means of paying for the large and annually in- creasing quantity of British manufactures consumed in our colonies — it gives employment to nearly 30(>,fXX>tons of English shipping; it prevents us from being at the mercy of foreign countries, for an ex- tensive supply of an article indispensable to a mari- time nation, and which, previous to the creation of the Canada timber trade, gave to our rivals " exor- bitant profits and the power of enforcing arbitrary rates,"* — it enables us in turn to govern the prices of foreign timber, for if colonial competition were removed, the Baltic merchants would not be slow in availing themselves of the monopoly which the destruction of the Canadian timber trade would give them ; for to place the duties on the wood of each country on an equality, would be tantamount to the immediate destruction of our Colonial trade — the shipping engaged in which cannot make more than two voyages in the year, while the Baltic merchant may send his vessel four times to Eng- land in the same period — with this additional ad- vantage, that he is not obliged to keep his ships lying idle during the winter, as is the case with the Canadian merchant, — to say nothing of the inferior cost in building, and diminished charges in navi gating a Baltic as compared with a British ship, though both now enter our ports on the same terms. * This is the language of the enactment of 1809, when Government encouraged the colonists to embark in the timber trade, by pledging its faith for protecting duties against undue foreign competition. i! ^268 THE CANADAS. ' If it be intended to reduce the duty on Baltic timber, a preliminary measure I trust will be, the total re- moval of the duty from our Colonial timber, or as British goods are admitted into the Canadas at '2$ per cent, that no higher tax be levied oji ( 'anadian timber when imported into England. Wkiohts and Measuhks. — In the Lower Pro- vince the English weights are used, vi/. lb. troy and avoirdupois. The standard wine gallon is the liquid measure ; the Canada m'mot, for all grain, &c., except when specially agreed on to the contrary ; the yidnot is an eighth larger than the Winchester bushel. The Paris foot is employed for all mea- sures of land granted previous to the conquest, the English for all since that era. • The arpent is for all other measures English, unless it may be other- wise agreed on. • In Upper Canada, the weights and measures are all English. Monetary System. — Intimately connected with the commerce and prosperity of a country, is its monetary system, which 1 now proceed to de- scribe. Lower Canada. — Accounts are kept in Halifax currency, by which a guinea (weighing 5 dwts. and Ci grs.) is equal to 235. 4<1. currency j a sovereign to 2^5. 3d. f a Joannes (a gold coin, weighing 18 dwts.) to 4^. J a moidore (weighing 6 dwts. and 18 grs.) to 'HI.', and an eagle (weighing 11 dwts. and 6 grs.) to 50s. The gold Spanish and French coins, are a doubloon (17dwts.) 3Z. 14s. 6d. ; Louis-d'or, coined before 1793, (5 dwts. 4 grs.) C()»n(EKCK 'id'J 1 /. 2s. Sd. ; the pistole, ditto, (4 dwts. 4 grs.) iSs. 3^/. ; the forty franc piece, coitied since 1702, (8 dwts. (] grs.) 1/. Ids. 2(1. ; the twenty-franc piece (4 dwts. 3 grs.) IHs. 4(1. In silver coins the crown is equal to 5*'. (Ul. — Spanish and American dollar to 5*. ; English shilling 1.?. Id.; pistarccn Id.; French crown, coined before 1*93, 5i\ (hi.; Frcnrh piece of six francs 5.v. Od., and so on. The coins in most general circulation arc dollars of various denomina- tions. The metallic circulation may be, estimated at about '250, (»(X)/. sterling ; this sum is independent of a balance of from loo.ooo/. to 150,(KX)/. sterhng, in the military chest ; and if it be true that many of the Canadians hoard their gold coins to a con- siderable extent, we may supp(jse that full half a million gold and silver money exists in the province. We come now to the paper circulation. There are no notes issued by the Government, or on the credit of the colony, nor have the government any shares in the private banks, whi(;h are three in number — viz. the Quebec, Montreal, and City banks, which are authorized bv charter to is8U»' notes from one dollar in value to any amount, payable on demand in specie, and subject to the proviso of having cash in their vaults to the extent of one third of their circiUation. A full account of each bank is re- quired to be printed and laid before the Legiblature annually. The Quebec Bank as appears from a ge- neral statement of its atlairs as thev stood on the ITth January, 1834, had a capitid stock paid in of 75,000/. ; the notes in circulation, in value five dollars aud up- 270 THE CANADAS. I wards amounted to 37,57 1 1, j under five dollars 91 80/. Total, 46,752/. The nett profit in hand was 9572/. j the balance due to other banks 3432/,j cash deposited, not bearing interest 44,930/. Total, 179,587/.* The rates of the semi-annual dividend 3 per cent, declared in August, 1 833 was 2250/. ; and the amount of profits reserved, at the time of declaring such dividend, 6410/. The shares of the Quebec bank are in number 3000, divided among seventy-six stockholders, who each hold a greater or lesser number of shares. The state of the Montreal Bank on the 18th January, 1834, was capital stock paid in, 250,000/. — bills in circulation 190,297/. — nett profits on hand 37,172/. — balances due to other banks for notes collected on their account 16,960/. — amount of dividend owing to the stockholders 592/. — balances due to foreign agents in exchange transactions 6617/- — cash deposited, including all sums what- soever, due from the bank, not bearing interest, its bills in circulation, profits, and balances owing to other banks and agents, excepted 184,882/. — drafts on the banks accepted by the cashier, oustanding 100/. Total, 686,624/. Amount of last semi-annual division at 4 per cent, 10,0001. 3 amount of reserved profits at time of declaring the same, 29,676/. ; amount of debts owing to the banks, secured by pledge of its stock, 1765/. The number of shares, in the Montreal bank, is * Shillings and pence omitted, -which will account for the slight discrepancy in the totals. COSniEKCE. 271 5000, divided among 173 stockholders ; the greater number being in small shares of from ten to fifty each. The actual circulation 1st December, 1832, of paper money — 73,999 of one ('.ollar 48,7 1 1 of two D. 274 of four D. 172,517 under five D.— 53,370 of five D. 31,676 of 10 D. 1684 of 20 D. 2398 of 50 D. 1531 of 100 D.—S90,290 five D. and upwards. D. 1,062,&07— 265,70U. \os. The books of the City bank (Montreal), exhibited a general statement of the affairs of that Institution, on the 1 5th January, 1 834 — thus : Capital stock paid in 84,121/. J bills in circulation 3 4, '235/. ; nett profits on hand 1866/. j balance due to Montreal bank 3583/. j cash deposited, including all sums whatsoever due from the bank, not bearing interest, its bills in circulation, profits and balance owing to Montreal bank excepted 12,937/. Total 136,744/. Amount of debt owing to the bank, and secured by a pledge of its stock 25/. ; amount of debt un- paid and over due 47/. The cash which the City bank (a recent esta- blishment) possessed in its vaults in 1834, amounted to 15,244/. ; Montreal bank, ditto. 73,860/. ; and Quebec bank, 21,011/. j — making a total metallic money, belonging to private individuals, of 1 10, 1 15/. The paper currency in circulation in 1825 and in 1834 was—Quebec bank 28,393/., 46,752/. ; Mon- treal ditto 885,45/., 190,297/.; Canada* (now City) 843"*/., 34,235/.; Total 125,370/., 271,284/. * Diatontinuc'd. '•w.wlM*W»*'W * ' ' >''' ' * ' *^'''*<*ii lv .»w*»w*«*--< •iH--.-»-«'' f^*" '' ! ^1 I 27 '2 rUE CANADAS. .i \ 1' !t will be evident from the foregoing statements, that banking is on the increase in Lower Canada, and with it the commerce of the colony. Upper Canada. — The monetary system is car- Hed on by m^ns of the incorporated banks, an in- sight into whose proceedings may be obtained from the following statements : — General Statements of the Affairs of the Bank of U[»j)er Canada, on Wednesday, the 2l8t day of January, 18;<5, fur- nished by order of the Honourable the Commons House ot Assembly. Capital stock paid in 200,000/. Amount of notes in cir- culation not bearing interest of the value of five dollars and upwards, 198,510/. Ditto under five dollars, 4.'),329^ Bilh and notes, in circulation bearing interest none. Balance due to other banks 14,993/. Cash deposited, including all sums whatsoever due from the bank not bearing interest, (its bills in circulation and balances due to other banks excepted; 180,73.!)/. Amount deposited bearing interest being for thi' home district savings bank, and district bonds in part rojaid 1,799/. Total 641,368. Resources of the bank. Gold, silver, and other coined metals in the vaults of the bank at Toronto, 76,049/. Ditto at its agencies, 24,697/. Real estates and bank furniture 8,698/ Bills of other banks 10,936/. Balances due from other banks and foreign agents, in London and New York, on exchange transactions 140,.5()2/. Balances due by the agencies at this date, being money in transitu 3,849/. Amount of all debts due, including notes, bills of exchange, and all stock and funded debts of every description, excepting the balances due from other banks 376,634/. Total 641,368/. Statement of the Affairs of the Commercial Bank of the Midland District, on Thursday, the 22d of Jan. 1835. Gold, silver, and copper in the vaults of the bank and it* oftces 29,429/. Real estate, office, furniture, &c. 3,3''i7.'. Bii i of other banks 5,060/. Balance due from other banlcs MM^I/it! «^tMAMMr^ Ar^tU*tViii^lHt\ ■-•*''v>#Vf f" COHBIERCE. 273 And foreign agents 11,349/. Amount of ail debts due, in- cluding notes, bills of exchange, and all stock and funded debts, of every description, excepting the balance due from other banks 203,107/. Total amount of the resources of the bank 252,314/. Stock paid in 100,000/. Amount of notes in circulation, not bearing interest, of five dollars and upwards 83,830/. Under five dollars 33,250/. Total 117,080/. Bills and notes in circulation bearing interest none. Balance due to other banks and foreign agents 11,800/. Cash depo- sited, including all sums whatsoever due from the bank, not bearing interest 21,210/. Cash deposited bearing interest 2,213/. Total amount due from the bank 252,314/. Rate of dividend on the 1st December, 1834, four per cent, on capital, making 4,000/. Amount of reserved profits at the time of declaring the last dividend 4,108/. Amount of debts due to the bank, and not paid, beiiig over due 10,574/. Of which the sum of 151/. 7s. Gd. is considered doubtful. 1 ! \ 'f I ! The money transactions with the agents of the Bank of Upper Canada are, relatively considered, very large ; they amounted in one year to upwards of 1 ,(K)(;),000/. sterling, viz. — Remittances to Thomas Wilson and Co., London : from 1st January to 30th June, 1833, l(K),808/. : from 1st January to 17th December, 1833, 118,007/. Total to London aiSjSl.^j/. Kemittances to Mon- treal J3ank,, same dates, tirst half-year 26*7,095/. : second ditto, 33'^,707l. Total 599,S02/. ; and the remittances to New York for the same period were, first half-year, 11G,087/. j second ditto, 116,900/. — Total, 232,987/.— making a grand total of 1,051,004/. To carry on this oxtent of business very little cash is required — the principal circulation is paper notes and bills of Exchange, VOL. I. T ' t 1 I ^74 THE CANADA8. I !t ; ■■ V I 'i I ' I i;l and as is the case in every well regulated community, a large amount of trade is carried on by means of credit. The following shews the number of shares subscribed, in the several districts of the province, on the New Stock of the Bank of Upper Canada in August, 1S32 :— York, No. 10,039, 125,487/.; Nia- gara, No. 6,841, 73,G37/. ; Brockville, No. 2,8'24, 35,300/. ; Kingston, No. 2,136, 26,7W/. ; Hamilton, No. 1,279, 15,98//. ; London, No. 1,020, 12,750/. , Cobourg, No. 633, 7,912/., Cornwall, No. 560; 7,000/, 3 Perth, No. 806, 10,975/.; Amherstburg, No. 91, 1,137/. Total No. of shares, 25,679 — total amount, 320,987/. The government hold 2,000 shares of the capital stock of the bark of Upper Canada, to the amount of 25,CX)0/. currency, the whole of which has been paid in. The liabilities of the bank, are similar to those described under the head of Lower Canada. The rate and amount of the dividend on the 1st July, 1833, was four per cent, upon the capital paid in — making 5,239/. Amount of reserved profits, after declaring the same dividend, 6,661/. Amount of debts to the bank, and not paid, being over due, 23,075/. of which 572/. were considered doubtful or bad. Everv commercial man will be able to estimate the progress of the colony, from the foregoing trading and monetary details. I> ^., /.t'-'^r-Vi'-'iA*-' ■s-':'J7-'->,V'fr---T »Tj GOVERNMENT. '27 :> CHAPTER VII. THE GOVERNMENT, LAWS, MILITARY DEFKNCE, AND FINANCES OK TMK t ANADAS, Government. — When Canada was in the posses- sion of the French, the Government was a pure despotism. In 1*74 the first British Act of Parlia- ment was passed, fixing the boundaries of Canada — making provision for the better government of this part of His Majesty's dominions, and vesting the authority in a Governor, aided by a council of not less than 17 persons, and not exceeding 23 in number, who had power to frame ordinances, but not to levy taxes, except for making public roads, and erecting a few local structures. By this Act the English criminal law was preserved ; but it was enacted that ' in all matters of controversy, re- lative to property and civil rights, resort should be had to the rule and decision of the laws of Canada — excepting however from this concession to French law, 'lands which had been or should be granted in free and common soccage.' The Roman Catholic re- ligion, with all its immunities and rights, was secured to those of the Canadians who professed that faith. After an interval of 17 years, this Act was fol- lowed by Mr. Pitt's, or rather Lord Grenville's Act, styled the Constitution of 1791, under the provisions of which, Canada was divided into the upper and lower provinces. » \ n 97« THE CAN'ADAS. I li- I Lower Canada received from this Art a Consti- tution, consisting of a Governor, and Executive Council of 11 members, appointed by the Crown, (simihir to the Privy Council in England) — a Legis- lative Council appointed by mandamus from the King, forming the second estate, and at that time consisting of 15 members, but since increased to 34, and a Representative Assembly, or third estate, com- posed of 50 members, and consisting of four citizens from each of the cities of Quebec and Montreal,— three burgesses, (being two for the town of Three Rivers, and one for William Henry,*) and the re- maining number divided over the province as knights of the shire, representing '20 counties, into which Lower Canada was divided. Poj)ulation was partly made the basis for regulating the division : thus a small and thickly-peopled territory on the banks of the St. Lawrence was found sufficient to form a county, and in the more distant parts, large areas were included in one county, in order to obtain the amount of po})ulation necessary to a representative election. The unequal manner in which this division into twenty one counties operated, from its having re- gard to population and not to area, was felt after a few years ; and it was set aside by the Provinci:il Act of 9 Geo. IV., which subdivided Lower Canada into 40 counties. The Constitution of the Lower Province as at pre- sent regulated, may be thus summarily stated. The authority of the Sovereign in Canada is limited • So called in honour of the visit of his present Majesty. • -i- (iOVERNMKXT. by the laws of Great Britain, and by the, capitulations of the province. The supreme kghlathe aiithonty, is in his Majesty and the two Houses of the Imperial Parliament : this authority is in like manner limited by the capitulations, and its own Acts ; the most re- markable of which is the Act 18 Geo. III. cap. I .>. confirmed by 31st (ieo. III. cap. 13. which declares that * no taxes shall be imposed on the colonies but for the regulation of trade, and that the proceeds of such taxes shall be applied to, and for the use of the province, in such manner as shall be directed by any law or laws which may be made by his Majesty, his heirs or successors, by and with the advice and consent of the Legislative Council and Assembly of the Province.'* The Provincial Legislature consists of his Ma- jesty, acting by the Governor of the province ; — of a legislative council of 34 members;! appointed by his Majesty for life ; of a House of Assembly, of 88 members, elected for four years by his Majesty's subjects resident within the province, who possess in the counties, property to the yearly value of 40>v. ster. ; in the towns to the yearly value of jG5. ster., or paying rent to the amount of 4J10. ster. The constituency of Lower Canada is very widely dif- fused — among the half million of people there are at least 80,(.KX) electors of whom nine-tenths are pro- * This is one of the main points in which a large portion of the Canadians are at issue with the home Government : the former desire to have an entire control over all sums of money raised within the province, and free from any interference on the part of the parent State. t The Chief Justice and Protestant Bishop are members* •*»«' .■?*sS*MN*''i»*Wi««!jir?.-#imf/';r i^-^^w^^^^ ' .t .i- . i« 27H THE CANADAS. n 1. 1 1 1 prietors of the soil ; several counties have from 4 to 5,000 electors, all of whom are landed proprie- tors. The total number of proprietors of real pro- perty ill 1831, was 57,891 : and of pers(»ns holding property not otherwise than real, '25,208 ; of fa- inilics employed in agriculture, 50,8SJ4 j and of fa- milies engaged in commerce, only 2,503. The number of farm servants employed was 7602, which shows what a large proportion of the agriculturists are smnll farmers. The number of persons subs^ist- ing on alms, in a total population of upwards of half a million, was only 1282 ; and which, I suppose, included a large proportion of 408 deaf and dumb, 334 blind, and 924 insane persons. No religious disabilities exist as to electors ; but Clergymen or Jews are not eligible as representa- tives. The Assembly is empowered to make laws for ' the peace, welfare, and good of the govern- ment, of the province, such laws not being inconsis- tnit with the Act of 31 Geo. III. c. 31.* The elec- tions are conducted by open voting. The Governor, in his Majesty's name, assembles, prorogues, and dissolves the two Houses, which must be called together once in every twelve calen- dar months. All questions arising in either of the * The Members of the House of Assembly have for the last three sessions, been allowed by grants of the Legislature, an indemnity of 10.'». currency per diem, and 4.s. per league as travelling expcnces from their places of residence to Quebec, wfhere the sittings of the Legislature are held. The ses- sion of the Parliament of Lower Canada genendly lasts three months, seldom more than four, and is held during the winter. The salary of tl" Speaker of the House of Assembly is £900, voted annually by the Provisional Legislature. **'»»*. COVERXMKXT '2T!> two bouses, are decided by the majority of (he mem- bers present by open voting. 'J'he (io\ ernor i;ives, withholds, and reserves for the further sijj^nitication of his Majesty's pleasure, the royal sanction to Bills proposed by the two other branches. Laws assented to by the Governor, may be disallowed by his Ma- jesty within two years. His Majesty may not as- sent to any Act or Acts affecting the duos of the clergy of the Church of Rome, or the established Church of England within the province, or the pro- visions made for the same, or the enjoyment or ex~ ercise of any religious form or mode of worship, or creating penalties, burthens, disabilities, or disquali- fications on that account, or granting, or imposing any new dues in favour of any ministers of any former mode of worship, or affecting the prerogative, touching the granting of the waste lands of the Crown ; until such Acts shall have been at least 30 days before both Houses of the British Parliament, without either of the Houses having addressed his Majesty praying him not to sanction the same. Upper Canada. — ^I'he (Jovernment has been iid- ministered since 1791 by a Lieutenant-Governor, Executive and Legislative Councils, and a House of Assembly or Representatives. The Executive Council consists of six members chosen by the Crown; and the Lieutenant-Governor, the presiding Councillor, is the Archdeacon of the Province. The laws in force in Lower Canada are : 1st, The Acts of the British Parliament which extend to the colonies : 2nd, Capitulations and treaties : 3rd, The laws and customs of Canada, founded prin- cipally on the jurisprudence of the Parliament of 980 THE CANADAR. l\ i\ I Paris, as it stood in 16G3, the edicts of the French kings, and their colonial authorities, and the Roman civil law : 4th, The ('riminal law of England, as it stood in 1774, and as explained by subsequent statutes : 5th, The ordinances of the governor, and council, estabhshed by the Act of the above year ; 6th, The Acts of the provincial legislature since 1792. These laws are executed in his Majesty's name, and in virtue of his commission and instruc- tions, by the governor, or person administering the government, through the sigency of a number of inferior officers, all of whom are appointed during pleasure. The governor besides possesses all other powers and prerogatives generally, which his Ma- jesty may legally enjoy, and may delegate to him. '' The judiciary consists of a High Court of Appeal, a Court of King's Bench, presided over by a Chief Justice of the province, and three Puisne Justices for the district of Quebec j another Court of King's Bench for Montreal, with a Chief Justice and three Puisn^i Justices ; there are three provincial courts, with a judge for Three Rivers, and terms of the Court of King'sBench, including the Provincial Judge for trials of causes above 10/., one for Gaspd, and one for the district of St. Francis. There are also a court of Vice Admiralty, Quarter Sessions, and other minor tribunals for civil matters. The Court of Appeal, the highest legal tribunal in * The governor of Lower Canada is Governor General of all the British Colonies in North America, and Comi .ander-in- Chief of all the forces in those provinces ; I know not how far his power extends to Upper Canada, which has a Lieutenant Governor. ^iAf\itf ^i»-'S^ GOVERNMENT. ^81 the province, consists of the Governor {ex-officio President), the Lieutenant-Governor, Chief Justice of the province, the Chief Justice of Montreal, and the Members of the Executive Council, five of whom, including the President, are a competent quorum to hear and determine appeals from judg- ments pronounced in the courts of King's Bench in civil matters. Should the matter in dispute exceed bOOl. in value, an appeal lies to the King and Privy Council j if below that sum, the decision of the Ca- nadian High Court of Appeal is final. The Canadian Court of King's Bench combines a jurisdiction similar to those of the King's Bench and Common Pleas at Westminster ; it has distinct civil and criminal terms, and an appellate as well as an origiucil jurisdiction ; appeals lying, in certain cases, from the decisions of the provincial Judges, or inferior courts, over each of which a IMisn^ Judge presides ; whose jurisdiction, in the district of Three Rivers, is limited to 10/. sterling, (with the exception before explained,) in St. Francis, to 20/. — but in Gasp6, by reason of its distance from the superior tribunals, it is extended to 100/. The duties of the Vice Admiralty Court devolve, by commission, on a Judge Surrogate, who is also a Judge of the court of King's Bench ; this union is justly considered objectionable, as the Court of King's Bench possesses a controlling power over the Admiralty court j and, owing to the increasing com- merce of Quebtc, it is desirable that the Vice Ad- miralty Judge should be unconnected with any other office. *H. p. THK CAN ADAS. .1'! 5 li < I The Court of Escheats was created by the lOth sec. 6 (ieo, II. ch. 5J) ; it consists of Commissioners appointed by the (iovernor to inquire, on information being filed by the Attorney-General, into the liability of lands to be escheated, by reason of the non-per- formance of the conditions on which they were granted. The deciLion is by a verdict of a jury com- posed of twelve men, summoned in the usual way ; and the lands forfeited become revested in the Crown.* The other courts being similarly constituted to those of the same name in England, require no ex- planation. The police of the country is adminis- tered by unpaid justices of the peace, of whom there are U in the Quebec district j 2 1 5 in the Montreal ; 44 in Three Rivers, 23 in (Jasp^, and 19 in 8t. Francis, exclusive of the members of the executive and legislative councils, the judges, &c. who are everywhere justices of the peace tx-officio. Trial by jury is universal in all criminal cases ) but in civil matters, the appeal to this mode of trial is con- fined by statute to certain cases, viz., the demand must exceed 10/, sterlings the parties being mer- chants or traders, and the subject matter grounded on debts, promises, contracts, and agreements, of a mercantile nature only ; or else the action must arise from personal wrongs, to be compensated in damages : in all other cases, the Bench are judges both upon the law and the fact, — a very small por- tion of these cases are tried by jury. Law proceed- * This Court exists only in name ; as yet, I hear, it has done nothing. COVEIiNMENT. •^83 ings are in French and Plnglish, and it is nf»t unusual tr> have half the jury En^h.sh and the other halt' French. Litigation ».>• prevalent : there are about '2(H) lawyers on the rolls of >h»> Courts of King's Bench, who are sohcitor>« and prot fors as well as barristers :* the notuf/^'s, who are the conveyancers in the country, now form a distinct cIhsn, and are upwards of 3(K) in number. Of the laws it may be said, that the criminal is Eniilish, with som» provincial statutes engniftcd on it not repugnant thereto ; the admiralty is wholly English J the commercial laws of evidence are Eng- lish. Quebec and Montreal are corporate cities, having each a mayor and common council. In Upper danudn the laws are wholly English, and administered by a Court of King's Iknch, with two Puisne Judges, and 11 District Judges. There are courts of Quarter Sessions, Requests, &c. as in Eng- land, and there are about 5r)0 unpaid magistrates. Landed Tenures. — Before closing this section, it will be necessary to advert to the peculiar state of the landed tenures in Lower Canada. When the country was first settled by the I'rench, the feudiU tenure was in full vigour on the continent of Europe, and naturally transplanted by the colonizers to the new world. The King of France, as feudal lord. * In the Quebec district there are 4f> advocates, or barristers, 43 advocates, or solicitors, and 128 notaries. In Montreal di.strict 26 avocats, 60 advocates, and 1 64 notaries ; and Three Rivers, St. Francis and Gaspe, 72, making a total of 538 law- yers ! „,^u«*«*fc*'i»-»*Wl*-l*('«"*n*in ^84 THE CANADA!^. granted to nobles and respectable families, or to officers of the army, large tracts of land, termed seigniories, the proprietors of which are termed seigniors ; these possessions arc held immediately from the King, en fief, or en roture, on condition of the proprietor rendering fealty and homage, on accession to seigniorial property ; and in the event of a trans- fer, by sale, or gift, or otherwise (except in heredi- tary succession), the seigniory was subject to the payment of a quint, or fifth part of the whole pur- chase-money ; and which, if paid by the purchaser immediately, entitled him to the rahat, or a reduc- tion of two-thirds of the quint. This custom still prev^ails 5 the King of Cireat Britain having suc- ceeded to the claims of the King of France. Estimating the number of acres of land under cultivation in Lower Canada at 4,000,000, and the seignorial grants of good and bad land, at 10,000,fKK) acres,it will be perceived that a large portion of ter- ritory is embraced under the seigniories. On this ac- count it will be necessary to give some explanation of the difiFerent terms used in relation to this property. Quints are a fifth part of the purchase money of an estate held en Jief, which must be paid by the purchaser to the feudal lord, that is, the King. If the feudal lord believes the Jief to be sold under value, he can take the estate to himself, by paying the purchaser the price he gave for it, together with all reasonable expenses.* Relief e is the rent or revenue * The Committee of the House of Commons in their Report on the atfairs of Canada, in 1828, recommended the Crown to relinquish the quints. C0VERN3IKNT. sen of one year for mutation fine, when an estate is in- herited only by collateral des( ent. Lods et ventes, are fines of alienation of one-twelth part of the purchase money, paid to the seigneur by the pur- chaser, on the transfer of property in the same manner as qulits are paid to the King on the muta- tion oijiiif; an'^ are held en roturc, which is an estate to which heirs succeed equally. Franc aleu noble is iijicf, or freehold estate, held subject to no seigno- rial rights or duties, and aci'-y' •'•^^Isy* ■• -_fts-£JVA;''t-h\'i£i.V*^t'''' h n J 290 TH£ CANADAS. 1 \ i- I i ■ i I f^? i! fusal, was subject to be impleaded in a court of law, and bound, on a commutation fixed and given, to grant his lands on soccage tenures. But this act has, with two exceptions, been of no effect ; the Canadians are peculiarly attached to ancient customs, — they contend that a conversion of tenure is equiva- loit to a conversion of law, as the descent by in- heritance would be altered, and with it the whole body of the law applicable to real property. It is, therefore, probable that the old tenures, en roture, will remain, and those in soccage are not likely to be converted into the former by the present genera- tion. Military Defence. — Lower Canada possesses an extensive militia, offering a most effectual means of organizing the numerical strength and physical energies of a people, to repel invasion or aggression. By means of a militia, such as that organized in Canada, and in several of our colonies, the higher and lower ranks of the community are brought into immediate contact, the patriotic feel- ings of the one class act on the minds of the other, and a degree of order is the result, highly advanta- geous to the stability of the social fabric. As pre- viously stated, England mainly owes the present possession of Canada to the gallant conduct of the Canadian militia, who so nobly exerted themselves, on two occasions, to drive the Americans from their territory ; confiding still in that militia, now that its numbers and intelligence are daily augmenting, I have little fear that as long as Britain acts with jus- tice towards the Canadians, she has nothing to fear M »k- ?; «i^ .. ;f ■'?! MILITARY DEFENCE. 291 from the jealousy of the United States, or the hos- tiUty of any European power. In I807, the militia men bearing arms consisted of 50,000 able bodied soldiers, with a due propor- tion of officers, who possessed as their own property, (i e. independent of the arms furnished by govern- ment) 10,000 muskets. From this period to 1815, their numbers were httlc increased ; but in the re- port of a Special Committee of the Assembly ap- pointed in J 827 to enquire into the state of the militia, which is now before me, I find tht following statement : — Quebec, 31,508 ; Three Rivers and St. Francis, 13,004 -, Gasp^, 153() ; INIontreal, 47,797 ; Total, 93,854. By the militia Act, every able-bodied male inha- bitant, from 1 8 to 60 years of age, after six months' residence, is liable to serve in the militia, unless specially exempted by law j the exceptions embrace the clergy, civil and military officers of His Majesty's Government, physicians, surgeons, schoolmasters, stewards of religious communities, students in col- leges and seminaries, notaries, land surveyors, ferry- men, millers, &c. and persons who had served as officers of militia previous to the Act. The o^Kcers are appointed by the government ; the qualification for those above the rank of captain being a bona fide possession of an estate yielding 50/. currency per annum ; half the sum qualifies for a captain's or subaltern's commission. There is an annual muster by companies (29th June) throughout the province. The light cavalry, artillery, and ritle corps, would do honour to any military power in Europe ; and iMM*ij ft W* fr i,i|>wlii H ,i i >. i li'i|.w^ » i| - |i»^ . ii ■ K i.ii i i f' ii ij« w «» i i . ii mum;, ■r i ini ii <-rtijmi also strongly defended, and there are some post.s near tlie American frontier, on Lake Champlain. Quebec, however, is the key both to Lower and I 'pper Canada j the command of that post is suffi- cient, without the occupation of minor f(»rtresses. The Governor of Quebec garrison is a Major-Gene- ral, and the Lieutenant-Governor holds the rank of liieutenunt-General. The head-quarters of the Com- missariat, and other militry departments, for Upper and liower Canada, are in the Lower Province. The naval station of our North American colonies is Ha- lifax, Nova Scotia. The barracks at Quebec (formerly the Jesuit's College,) which the troops at present occupy, are situate nearly in the centre of the Upper Town, forming the west side of the Market-square ; the building is of a quadrangular figure, of stone, three stories high, with a large open space in the centre, and is capable of containing 1500 men. The armoury at REVENUE. ^IX'i Quebec is very extensive, and in excellent order : md the several departments of the army, medical, commissariat, 8cc. are well attended to. The follow - ing is a return of the British troops in the Canadas at intervals since 181C, including- artillery and en- gineers. YRAltS. .laniiary 25 1816. 1821. 1827. > • • January 1, I9,i:<. * .5' q P 2 J S u fl a s V -1 K 9 14 91j 201|-() 5 8 4li 6.1 34 7\ 6 44 6, 5 351 50 21 46 13 li 5' PI iX: p en , » ! he U t be a,^;:?:?'- •' '-^ ^ t/) I fl> X ,■< >0 ['Ji -!i M s s o CI £ ■3 a eg ! ,6"27^ > 182;, 95,980^.; 1828, 108,425/. J 1830, 213,295/. J 1831,157,154/.; 1833, 2fX),000/. The revenue of lower Canada for the year ending; 10th October, 1834, was 227,314/. currency, ot which 30,000/. was paid to Upper Canada, beini;- the proportion of the Custom duties which it is en- titled to receive. The largest portion of the revenue is derived from the Custom duties : the territorial and casual reve- nue being about 5000/. per annum : the duties on spirits and wines about 50,000/. The lightness of the Custom dues is shown by the foHowing rate of taxation levied, viz : on sugar, 1^^/. per lb ; do. refined, ]d.-. tea per lb., hyson, 6^/. ; bohea, 2r/. ; all other sorts, 4d. ; cotfee per lb. 2c/. j win* , ruTi, brandy or Geneva, per gal. (id. ; Whiskey, do. 3(/. ; tobacco, manufactured, per lb. 3d.; snuff, do. 4\,l94l.; 1828, G8,2Cr/.; IHlil, IJAJWH. Military do. — 1821, 1864/. : 1825, 1848/. j 182H, UOOl. : 1831, 1974/. Upper Canada. — The income of the Lpper Pro- vince consists of one-third of the custom duties levied at Quebec and Montreal, together with the proceeds of a duty upon shop and tavern licences for vending of spirits, and those of distillers, hawkers, pedlars, and auctioneers, and a duty upon certain imports from the United States, paid by the importer. These form the public resources of the province, and are at the disposal of the Provincial Legislature, for the pay- ment of public officers, and for such general pur- poses as may be deemed essential to the welfare of the people, and the interest of the province. The following is the abstract for 1833, of the sums paid into the Receiver-General's office. — From Lower Canada 41,416/. ditto ditto difference between one third and one fourth, per award 13,803/. ; Bank Stock Dividend 2,(XX>/. ; ditto lionds 1,5CK)/. j Duties on Imports from United States 5,580/. ; Duties on ditto of Salt from ditto 1,782-5 Hawkers and Pedlars' Licences 393/. ; Auction Duties 51 1/. ^ Light House, York 54/. ; Shop, Tavern, and Still Licences 5,905/. ; Burlington Bay Tolls 915/. j Ale and Beer Licences 2/. ; Interest on Loans 371/. It will be observed, that the largest part of the income of Upper Canada arises from the duties paid in Lower Canada, at the ports of Montreal and Quebec j the internal r» avenue of the province i «l M>M lKl l '* H " "l., being a total currency on those four items of 5,394/. — gross, or deducting the allowance to in- spectors, 505/. — 4,829/. Salt, imported from tlie United States, yields, 1,617/.; and the expense of collection is 382/., leaving net 1,235/. The hawkers and pedlars on foot pay 5/. annually ; and those who travel with one horse, 10/. ; two horses, 15/.; the gross amount of revenue from this source is 520/. — (collector's allowance, 26/.) ; net 404/. ; levied en — 41 foot pedlars, 30 one-horse pedlars, there bemg only one pedlar or hawker with two horses. The number of auctioneers is 23, who pay yearly 5/. for a license, together with duty on sales; which, for 1832 amounted to 251/. IIKVENM'K. ^!)^ paid on the WiU July, 1S^7, amounted to 1{),{HH)I. ; ill 1H33, lH,()fM)/. J and in lieu of sundry fees, kv. 1,77()/. J t'je total in seven years was 117,77(;/. In 1834, the amount payahle hy the Company was IJ),r)(K)/.. and every suhse(|uent year <2().()(K)/, until the whole ^um of 3'tH,6\S()/. he paid in \H42. PosT-otucK. 'J'he post-olHce reeeipts for Upper and Lower Canada in 1S3 1 were as follow ; in Upper f anada, Letters, !»87()/. Newspapers, kc. 'VOL In Lower Caniida, Letters, 10,494/. NeuspaptTS, kc, :)G6l. The letter postage includes the British and sea postag-e, as well as the internal rates in the pro- vinces. The nett pro«^eeds, after defraying the expenses of the estahlishment in the provinces, and the con- veyaiice of the mails, &c., are remitted to the (ic- neral Post Oflice, London. The gross amount of Newspaper Postage pjiid hy jjrinters or proprietors of newspapers in the Ca- nadas, in 1831. was 102'2/. The Local 1 axes or District Rates are col- lected from each individual, at the rating of one penny in the pound, Jiccording to the quantity of land and other property he may possess, agreeably to the assessed value fixed by law, viz. — Every acre of arable pasture or meadow land, 1/.; every acre of uncultivated land 4.«. ; every town lt)t, r)0/. Ever\ house built with timber stjuared or hewed on two sides, of one stor)', with not more than two (ire-places, 20/. ; for every additional fire-place, 41. Every house built of squared or flattened timber on two sides, of two stories, with not more than two fire-places, 30/. ; for every additional tire- ?-»»I'V?<'W1hS.;«t**VI» Vr4r i'T'-A ■ 298 THE CAXADAS. Ji i\ }■ 1 place, 8/. Every framed house under two stories in height, with not more than two tire-places 35/. for every additional fire-place, 5/. Every brick or stone house of one story, and not more than two fire-places, 40/. ; every additional fire- place, 10/. Every framed brick or stone house of two stories, and not more than two fire-pdaces, r.O/. ; for every additional fire-i)lace, 10/'. Every grist mill, wrought by water, with one pair of stones, 1 50/. ; (or every additional pair, 50/. Every merchant's shop, 200/. Every store-house, 200/. Every stone-horse, 199/. For every three-year-old and upwards, 8/. Oxen of the age of four years and upwards, 4/. Milch cows, 3/. Horned Cattle from two to four years and up- wards, 4/. Every close carriage with four wheels, kept tor pleasure, 100/. Every open carriage, or curricle, ditto, 25/. Every other carriage, or gig, with two wheels, ditto, 20/. Every waggon kept for pleasure, 1')/. Every stove erected and used in a room, where there is no fire-place, is considered a fire-place. Highway Rates. — Every person inserted on the \48sessment roll is, in proportion to the estimate of his property, held liahle to work on the highways or roads in every year, as follows : — If his property be rated at 25/., 2 days; do. 25/. to 50/., 3 days; do. 50/. to 75/., 4 days; do. 75/. to 100/., 5 days; do. 100/. to 150/., T) days; do. 150/. to 200/., 7 days; do. 200/. to 250/., 8 days; do. 250/. to 300/ , 9 days; do. 300/. to 350/., 1 days ; do. 350/. to 400/., 1 1 days ; do. 400/. to 500/,, 12 days. For every 100/. above 500/., to 1000/. one day; for every 200/. above 1000/., to 2000/. do. ; for every 300/. above '2000/., to 3000/. do. : for every 500/. above 3500/., do. Every jicrson possessed of a waggon, cart, or team of horses, oxen, or beasts of burthen or draft used to draw the same, is held liable to work on the highways three days. Every male inhabitant, from 21 to 50, not rated on the assessment roll, is compelled to work on the highways three days. Persons emia;iat- ing to this province, intending to become settlers, and not ha\ ini; REVENUK. 299 been resident six months, are exempt ; and all indigent persons, by reason of sickness, age, or numerous family, are exempt at the discretion of magistrates. Any person liable, may com- pound, if he thinks fit, by paying 5«. per day for each cart, &c., and 2s. fid. for each day's duty ; to bo paid within ten days after demand made by an authorised surveyor, otherwise the magistrates can issue their distress for double the amount, with costs. Members of the House of Assembly for townships, are paid iO.«. per day during the sitting of the House, from an assessment upon the inhabitants, apportioned according to the foregoing scale. Members for towns are not paid. A police tax, of 100/, per annum, is raised from the inhabitants of York, (Toronto) according to the same assessment scale. Expenditure. — A document prepared at the Co- lonial Office states, in pounds sterling-, the gross expenditure and revenue of Upper Canada, for 1831, thus : — Revenue, 102,'>S9/. 5 Civil Expenditure, 98,928/. ; Military, ^0071. ; Total, 101,035/. For the year 1833 the Ex[)enditure was, Civil List estimate, 9,379/. ; for Officers of the Le- gislature, 890/. -, Contingencies of the Legislature, 5,0(K)/, ; Permanent Salaries, /j'i^S/. ; Arrears of lS3'-2, 4,929/. ; Common School Appropriations, 2,900/. District Schools, 1,100/. -, Militia Pensions, 1,(XX)/. J Adjutant-General's Establishment, 650/. ; Inspector-General's ditto, 778/, ; Agricultural So- cieties, 600/. j six Pensioners, 120/. j Clerk in Chancery, 75/. ; Lighthouses, 760/. ; Harbour at Kettle Creek, 1,500/.; Kingston Hospital erection, 2,000/. : Redemption of Debentures, 18,890/. and Interest on Public Debt, 8,303/.— Total, 66,500/. As considerable interest is felt, respecting the debt which Upper Canada is incurring for public works, I subjoin the following detail, as printed in 300 THK CANADAS. li 1 1 • 1 the proceeding's of the House of Assembly in 1833. The total amount outstanding- of debentures in pro- vincial currency is 138,833/., at an interest of five and seven-eighths per cent, per annum ; 52,6(56/. in debentures, bearing six per cent., have been re- deemed—namely, 25,000/. for the Militia ; 16,000/. for the Public Service in 1824 ; 3,000/. of the Jiur- ling-ton Canal ; and 8,666/. of the Welland Canal : of the debentures outstanding the several amounts are, Burlington Canal, 5,(KX)/, ; Welland ditto, 16,334/. J Burlington ditto, 4,500/. ; Welland ditto, 50,000/. ; Kettle Creek Harbour, 3,000/. ; Welland Canal, 25,000/. ; Burlington ditto, 5,000/. j Oak- ville Harbour, (loan to Mr. Chisholm,) 2,500/. : Roads and Bridges, 20,000/. ; Kettle Creek Har- bour, 2,500/. ; Port Hope Harbour, 2,000/. ; and Coburg Harbour Loan, 3,000/. — Total, 191,5fX)/. The interest is paid half yearly as the debentures fall due, and their amount varies from 25 to 100/. In 1833 the Provincial Legislature authorized the borrowing of money by debentures, to the extent of 70,000/., to be applied to the improvement of tlio St. Lawrence, but only to bear 5 per cent, interest, and not the usual interest of 6 per cent. ; the con- sequence was, that the loan could not be raised in either of the Canadas, or in the United States. Mr. Du.»n, the Receiver-General, was sent to Eng- land, and subsequently authorised to negotiate a loan with the House of Thomas Wilson and Co. to the amount of 200,000/. paying interest 5 per cent, in London, or 6 per cent, in Canada, for the purpose of redeeming the debentures that have REVKXUi:. 801 been issued from year to year for the AVelland Canal, &c., as stated above. The legislature of Upper Canadahas also sanctioned the borrowingof 350,000/. for making the St. Lawrence navigable for ships, from Montreal into Lake Ontario -. of 50,000Z. to l);iy the debts due by the Welland Canal, and to keep it in repair : — and of 45,000/. for making roads and bridges in the province ; these sums, together with the existing debt of 258,138/. will make the whole (including minor items) upwards of SOO,(X)0/. I have been rather minute in the foregoing de- tails, in order that intending emigrants may see the >tate of the finances of the country in which they are about to settle. Expenditure incurred by Great Britain. — The largest item is for the troops, which amounted in 1832, according to the document printed by the House of Commons in 1834, to 208,218/. for both })rovinces. The details are given in the large edition of this work, and in mv Colonial Policv. An annual sum is voted, in the British I'arliamen- tary estimates, for the Indians, which is thus divided between Upper and Lower Canada. Lower Canada, in the year ending 31st JNIarch, 1835, obtained 1813/.; which was distributed as follows; to the secretary, 239/. ; supcrintendants,239/. ; interpreter, Quebec, I07/. ; do. do., 102/. ; missionary, 75/. ; do. do , 50/. ; schoolmaster, 20/. ; a superintendant at Montreal, 231/.; three interpreters, 102/. each; u resident, 131/. ; two missionaries, 50/. each ; and one at 45/. There is a U'- -rh similar establishment 302 THE CANADA8, I < I I f for Upper Canada, of which the salaries are 1 757/. ; and the pensions for wounds and long services^ 572/. The total expense of Indian presents, stores, ike, for the year ending April, 1845, is 15,856/.; making a grand total, in the miscellaneous British Parliamentary estimates, of 20,000/. There is also voted in the British Parliamentary estimates for the year ending March, 1836, a sum of 6,540/. for the Clergy of North America, of which the Protestant Bishop receives 3,000/. per annum : the Roman Catholic Bishop 1 ,000/. ; the Archdeacon of Quebec 500/. ; the Rector of Do. 400/. ; and the remainder is divided between ten Protestant Clergymen, of whom three are Presbyterians. The expense of the water communication in Canada, as defrayed by Great Britain is thus shewn : — An estimate of the sum that will be required between the 1st April, 1835, and 31st March, 1836, on account of the Canal Communications in Canada, 34,511/. The amount required to defray the expenditure up to the period of completing the works of both lines of canal 1,045,126/. The amount required on account of compensations to individuals, for losses sustained and lands taken, according to the best estimates that can now be formed, 23,900/. The amount expended in maintaining and repairing the canals, up to September, 1834, 19,911/. The amount estimated to be necessary on this account, during the years 1835-6, 8,365/. Total 1,097,302/. Towards which there has already been granted : — On account of the works of the canals 1,032,765/. REVENUE. SOii On account of the rnaintenance and repair 18,8(X)/. And the produce of the tolls and rents, to Sept. 1834, has been 7,8*26/. Estimated produce for 1835, at the rate 3,40()/. Total ).,06'2,7yi. Amount required 34,511/. The whole revenue raised in the Upper and Lower Provinces may be estimated in round num- bers, and on an average, at 300,000/. and as the population is about 900,000 the taxation is not 7v. 6d. per head per annum. The charge on Great Britain is now not much more than 200,000/. per annum — so that the whole expenditure for nearly a million of people is but half a million a year, or lO.v. per head. This shews the hghtness of the pubhc burthens in Canada. 304 THE CANAI>AS. CHAITi:il VIII. RKMGION — KDUC'ATION AND THE PRESS — SOCIAL STATK — KMIGRATION — WAGES, &C. h: I 1 Thk prevailing form of Religion in Lower Canada i- the Roman Catholic, the clergy of which are edu- cated in Canada, and have no civil or secular con- nexion with the Pope ; they are not paid by govern- ment, but have for their support the twenty-sixth part of all the grain raised on the lands of tlie Catholics. Hay and potatoes are exempted from the charge, and if a Catholic turn Protestant, or sell his lands to a Protestant, the estate is no longer subject to this moderate bu.den. The Church is governed by a Bishop (a Canadian born and edu- cated), who receives, in addition to the rent of some lands of little vahie, a stipend of KKK)/. per annum from Great Britain. Tlie incomes of tlie Cures average 3(XM. per annum, by which they are enabled to live respectably, and even to practi.^e hospitality ; and so long as they confine themselves to their religious duties, they invariably meet with all the respect which piety and philanthropy so well deserve. In Canada, Upper and Lower, as well as in our other colonies, great attention is paid to the observances of religion by people of every persua- I. STATK — Cauuda i- li are edu- cular con- y govern- enty-sixth ds of the jted from nt, or sell no lona;er Church is and edu- i rent uf (KM)/, per es of the they are practise lemselves t with all r so well IS well a^ id to the ' per sua- mgfmi'^'^mniih mvmw RELIGION. 305 sion, more than I believe to be the case in the mother country. The bishop, or primate has two coadjutors or titular bishops, and four vicars general, and there are upwards of two hundred vicaires, .curias, &c. Several religious communities exist, viz. the Hotel Dieii de Montreal, founded in U>()4, and containing 37 religieiises professes, the Om^^regation de N6tre. Dame () Montreal, with 80 professes ; the Ilopital- general de Montreal, with SJO professes ; the U6tel Dieii d'' Quebec, with 5S religieuses professes ; the Ursuitnes de Quebec, with i7 professes; and the UopHo I- general de Quebec, with 51 professes: all these establishments have novices and postulants, and it is but justice to add, that the nunneries of Lower Canada are exem])lary as to their manage- ment, and the piety and charity of their iniiiates. 'J'he church of Ent^land entabhshment consists of a bishop (of Quebec) and 40 clergymen. The Presbyterian clergymen of the Church of Scotland are about 14 in number, and there are 12 Wesleyan nnnisters. The ecdesiastical charges, voted in the last par- hamentary estimates, will be found under the head of Finance. The number of Churches in Lower Canada is about ,30. One seventh of the whole of the lands in the townships is set apart for the Protestant church. In Upper Canada the prevailing form of religion is that of the Established church, which is under VOL. I, X ^ 306 THE CANADAS. i i < the superintendence of the Bishop of Quebec, whose subordinates are the Archdeacons of 'J'oronto and Kingston, and about 40 clergymen, — the number cT Protestant cliurches in the province being about 50. It is calculated that the area of Upper Canada is 3 1 ,000,0(K) acres, of which <;J6,C00,0(K) are capa- ble of cultivation. One-seventh of which, or 3,700,000 are set apart for the maintenance of a Protestant clergy — that is, 18,000 reserved lots of 200 acres each. Archdeacon Strahan says, that this is not an extravagant provision, for judging from what takes place in the United States, each lot will not produce in a century, 201. per annum, making a total of 376,000^. which, divided among ^OOO clergymen, (a very small number f/5 '■fi o • o Q « ►^ Paying: "i*. to "v. (5rf. i,er Month. o No. of a . 1 1 oach.") S .6^\ era. ■r !.! iflUl 1 . c^ °§^' 1 en o a ■^-o ' 1 "3 '2 o ^^\ |S 1 opu opo ach ! : 0, a. I5 2 o c O I Honaventure .. (iasp«: Rimouski Kammiraska . L'lslet Hellechastie . . . Dorchester . . . Heauce Hcgrantic l.othiniere . . . Nicolet \ aniaskH Drumruonil . . . .shcrbrooke . . Stanstead Missiskoui . , ShefTord Richelieu ... . BonrgdeSorel. St. Hyac'intlie. KouviUe Vercheres Chambly '■ 2*2' Laprairie 28 l/Acadie 31 Beauharnois .. 41 Vaiidreuil . . , .. 12: Outaouais ! gi Deux Montapi.es ."^7; Terrebonne j.''.; Lachenaie 181 7 4 18 39 27 54 27 22 4 5R 27 18 lo! 69 50, 261 'ii .S4 46 13 I/Assomption .. Montrtial, Cittj.. ! Do. Comte: Berthier , St. Maurice . Cbamplain . Portneuf . , . Quebec, Cite Do. Comte Montmorency ,. ■Sag lien ay Orleans 271 541 203 6(34 137 1231 1642 802 •142 1U4 1667 1091 6li4 34'J 127<» 1976 1241 595 723 116 1336 1766 6()0 844 971 1154 Ml 4 260 24) 1332 9»0 650 88Q 3840 118{ 206, 931 13lj 26; J 22 313 62 211 4.%S 187; 148 1 60' 473 422 I '27 1 174' 276 231 501 119 9111 3001 160 1 i5:< 73 99; 195 123 97 62! 95! 140| 16: 29 I 731 I 565! lOSfli 760; 15.35 635 445; 94 1450 1 8111 626 282; 630 21« 96 8 302 367 hi 107 234 1><8 436 89 96 225 140 112 21 701 37 I3.32I 49 1763 27 821^ 54 i72(: 49 3413 19 623 23 773 1 4 237 1 ^ 241 1216 1 43799 165 I4li 1245 i7-i;<, 142 147! 306 225 3ti3 46:. 25 11 180 140 1018 1556 126 131 153 97 46 3!) 115 38 9015 9001 I3&; 138l 478 166 847 1555 249 348 482 790 342 120 640 600 321 591 1097 666 643 1073 824 1 975; ;54i 129 212: 4 15 21 18 28 16 12 4 36 16 10 8 10 2 1» 3 21 22 9 18 23 ih: 33 27 10 13 14 42 It ■27 29 12 35 38 13 13 4 4 23805! 670 8309 5003; 100611 14557! 13518 13529 II 946 lo 11900 2283 9191 12.504 9499 3566 7104 69' 10306 46, 8801 5087 16149 .7 9 26 12 21 12 8 2 49 24 7i 1 4! 5I sl 131 13; 1.5.369 24i 18115 12319 15483 18497 11419 16859 13111 4786 20905 15623 9161 12767 272J7 16476 20225 16909 6991 12350 27562 8611 3743 8385 4349 2351 298 1 303 1 428' 540; 276! 3981 !•'-' I34{ 191 1 2271 3l6l 178, 95 1 1661 1911 212 538J 495' 463! 615 1; 3 11 5 5 13 56 7 M 23 15 19 .50 6 10 2 4 635 51J919 40 15 12 13 8 15 22 22 5 II 14 10 5 5 7 8 19 II iO 20 616 in 19 431 10 330 II 599 50 252 20 486 15 831 18 450 14 354 14 6 23 412 15 466 10 249 8 280 7 8 5.39 13 220 5 399 35 434 18 1 1 • One child attends school to the undermentioned propoition ol population.— fHearfjw^ of the last column.) i!».i»» iiii»r .immtmtm'"*' Attylt**'" ' ^m»f*ii ^ ** ^ t*^ ¥f t '" ^M *!! '?' * ' ^ * .* ' i WiHiU ji W i tii l tf * M t \ u If 1 1 ,no TUB CAXADAS. The foregoing table speaks volumes in favour of the Canadian lloiise of Assembly — a committee of which body thus reports on the subject — 'In ISMO, there wore y8 1 schools ; m 1H:«|, 1216; tcarhcrs in 1830, 047; in JH31, 1305; scholars in 1830, 11,71)1; in 1H31, i:.,203* The number of scholars tnnglit grntiiitoualy has incroased from i;l,')22, to 23,ho.">. Those who |)ay, from lf),51»I to iH.nin. ' The vholc amount: of expenses for elcmentury schools, paid out of the public chest, in 1H30, was about 20,000/. , ii» 1831, It will be al)out 20,000, giving an average for eai li scholar, in 1m30, of 10s. W. ; in 1831, of 11,«. 2d. ' The p»" Mxjition which the number of children, receiving elementary insti uction, l)ears to the wholo population, is about one in twelve throughout the province, instead of one mi four, the proportion in the adjoining state of N'ew York. The counties of Montmorency, Stunstead, Shcrbrooke, and I.othi- nierc, are the only counties out of 41 where nearly all the children, of a fit age to attend school, are receiving a school education. In some counties only one child in 12, and one in 10, are at schotd. The average throughout the province (if the children at school is one out of three.' The money paid towards public- schools by the House of Assembly was, in IB'i'J — G439L ; 1830 — 18,08S/. ; 1831 - 17,317^. ; 183'2 — *23,3'24/. : making in four years 6'5,U)8/. sterling, or 7'^, 409/. currency, distributed through upwards of 2(K)0 schools annually. The lands granted to the Jesuits by the French Government, and which fell into the Crown on the * In 1829 the total number of children reported as receiv- ing elementary education was only 18,410, of which 367.' were under the Royal Institution. « m t »m<'n EDUCATION. .•ni demise of Uie last of the Jesuits in 180(), have been griintcd l)y the government for jiurposes of educa- tion. ITnder a very bad system of management, however, these lands did not yield r.o.CMK)/. from 1 H()0 to 1 H3 1 , Some alterations liave been recently made for the purpose of distributing- the elementary schools more equally over the province. The number of school districts, in 1833, vns : — Bonaventure, 2'2 ; (iaspt.^, 14 ; Kimouski, 35 ; Kamouraska, 34 ; l/I^U't, 25 ; Hellechasse, 49 ; Dorchester, 37 i l^eauce, 67, iMegimtic, 17;Lot- biniere, 41; Nicolet,4I , Yamaska,'27; IJrummond, 10 ; Sherbrooke, 51 ; Stan^-tead, (i'2 , Missiskoui, 48; i?hefford, '25; Richelieu, '29; St. Ilyacinthe, 31, Rouville, 47 ; V'ercheres, 17 ; Chambly, 35 ; La- prairie, 34 ; L'Acadie, 30 ; Heauharnois, 59 ; \'a\i- dreuil, 24 ; Ottawa, 19 ; 'J". Moiuitains, 49 ; Terre- bonne, 23; Lachesnaye, 21 ; LAssomption, 3(3 ; Montreal, IS ; lierthier, 48 ; St. Maurice, 3(> ; Champlain,27 ; Portneuf, 45 ; Quebec, 23 ; Mont- morency, 19; Saguenay, 19; Orleans, lO. — 'i'otal, 1295 school districts. For the higher branches of education there are various establishments ; such as the Seminary of St. Sulpice, at Montreal ; the New French College, at Montreal ; M'Ciill College, English, at the same place. There are French colleges, also, at Quebec, Cham- blv, Nicolet, and St. Ilvacinthe ; and there are manv high class public and private si^hools, -— .'--tar^.^,- --':7^ '%'jy^^:'' "*'*—•■*—•»* j 31^ THE CANADAS. f 11 In several of the colleges there are professorship^ of divinity, medicine, anatomy, philosophy, mathe- matics, &c., and the chairs are all ably filled. There are not such complete statistics showing the state of education in Upper Canada, as in the Lower Province, although upwards of half a million acres of land have been reserved for promoting public instruction, of which 225,944 have been re- invested in the Crown, in lieu of scattered reserves granted as an endowment to King's College j 66,(HK) acres have been set apart for the benefit of Upper Canada College, and 258,330 disposable acres for the extension of education. The legislature also grants from 40()0l. to 8000/. per annum. The annual cliarges for the Upper Canada College for 1832, were— Principal, GOO/. ; Vice Principal, 400/. ; Mathematical Master, 300/. ; two Classical do. 300/. each ; French Master, 200/. } Drawing d). 200/. 3 Writing and Cyphering, do. 150/. ; Pre- ratory Master, 150/. — Total, 2,6CK)/. There are up- wards of 100 scholars in the respective forms of the College. The terms at the Upper Canada College are 30/. currency pt^r annum for board and tuition, with some extra College dues. At the York National Central School, which gave instruction, in the year ending April 1833, to 402 boys and 235 girls, the terms for instruction to those who are unable to pay the higher terms, is one dollar per quarter j and no family is required to pay for more than two children, how many soever there be. The scholars at public or free schools, in which _.. =44 -_- -.w««,^^.rtwit(-.»'.-^^-ij^^ ■'^,r^.-' "f^ "^7#|!l(|*!fl^^ffyiW'*(*W*l ?-'^lW)!**^*1Pf^"?*"^"' THE PRESS. 313 an academical education is given, Jire stated to have been in 1S3'2 thus distributed : — Situation of Situation of Pisfrirt. Srhool. Srholnrs, Distrirt, Schuol. Scholars. Kiistern .... Cornwall ... 40 Home .... York Ottawa Hawkesbury. . ,3Q Gore Hamilton .... 40 Bathurst. . . . Perth .30 Niagara. . . . Niagara 2«> Johnstown . . Rroc''<'v>lii . , . 3.'> London. . . . London 40 Midland .... Kingston .... 46 Western . . . Sandwich .... 'Mt Newcastle . . Cobourgh. . . . 25 In the common schools, there are 18,000 chil- dren, of both sexes receiving education. The Press. — This novel and extraordinary ele- ment of civilization, and adjunct of national, us well as protector of individual liberty, is making rapid [progress in Canada ; where the journals are un- stamj)ed. the paper without an exciseable duty, and the advertisements exempt from tax. 1 have no sepa- rate return of the increase of the press in each pro- vince : but in both together, the number of news- papers was, in 18^7, 17; in 18'28, 20; in IS^O, '■27; in 1S30, 30 -, and in 1831, 3?, This information is derived from Parliamentary Papers. I think I may add that the present number is about .50; namely, 20 for Lower and 30 for Upper Canada. Newspapers published in Montreal, and their Po- litics : — 1. Montreal Herald and Daily Commercial (iazettf, published daily. (Tory.) 2. Montreal Herald, for the country, twice a week, (do.) 3. New Montreal Gazette, weekly, (do.) These three newspapers issue from the same press. — 4. Montreal Daibj Advertmr, daily. (Neutral) 5. The Courier, tliree times a 311 TIIK CANADAS. I i week. (Tory.) 6. The Weekly Abstract,, from the Daily Advertiser. The tliree hitter newspapers issue from tlie same press. The Courier is for country circuhition , and the Weekly Abstract bt-- ing- filled chielly with the commercial information of the week, is filed by the merchants, and sent to Europe to their correspondents. — 7- The Murnitif^ S'm», daily ; containing advertisements only. 8. The Montreal (inzette, three times a week. (Tory), the oldest of the Montreal newspapers, and supposed to be the greatest in point of circulation. — 9. The .SV/- tler, twice a week. (Tory.) 10. The I'indicator, twice a week. (Whig.) The foregoing eight news- papers are all in English. — 11. L Ami du Peitple, in French, twice a week. (Tory.) Vi. La Mincrve/m French, twice a week. (Whig.) Published in Quebec : 13. Quebec Gazette^ by authority, once a week. (Neutral . ) 14. Neilsoji's Quebec Gazette, daily. (Tory. ) 15. Quebec Mercury, three times a week. (Tory.) 16. Le Canadien, three times a week. (Whig.) The Gazette is in English and F'rench. Neilsons Gazette is three days of the week in Enghsh, and the other three days in French. The Mercury is in English, and Le Canadien in French. In tlie Country : 17. The Farmer s Advocate, or Towmhip Gazette, published at Sherbrooke, in the 1. istern Township.^, in EngUsh, weekly. (Tory.) There were two other newspapers published in the Townships, the St. Francis Courier and Colonist • it is said that they were lately discontinued. — 18. L Echo du Pays, TIIK l-KKSS. 3 1 5 IMiblished at St. Charles, on tlie Uichelicu, in French, weekly. (Whig.) l<>. A new " Pt'imy Magazine," j)rinted in French, entitled L'Ahe'tUe Canadinntf, is announced for publication 3 to he devoted to the in- terests of the peo]>ie. but e\< ludint; politics. The newspapers just enumerated are all conducted with ability ; hut, as may naturally he expected, with a icood deal of party violence ; the li'liiu's (4) sup- porting the House of Assembly, the Tories (10) the (iovernmcnt and Lef:;islative Council. 'I'hcy are also abundantly supplied with advertisements ; and as commercial speculations, iiidejicndent of their value as political engines to either p^irty, are found worthy the attention of capitahsts. Ihere are not at ])rescnt, I believe, any monthly or cpiarterly iournals.* The line arts are making no inconsiderable pro- gress ;t the Montreal Museum of Naturnl History, is increasing rapidly; and the Quebec Literary and Historical Society, is risnig into notice ; hopes are entertained, that when the existence of these institu- tions is more generally known in England, books, tracts and manuscripts, &c. will be sent to them gra- tuitously from the mother coutitry. There are se- veral public libraries ; one in Qoibec contains up- wards of (5,000 volumes of standard and valuable i I * I do not know whether the " MiKntrcal Museimi," a monthly journal devoted to literature, ho in exist«iuc tins year. The puhlished proceedings of the Historical Society t»i Quebec, not being periodical, arc not taken into a(riiunt. f A concert was given during the present year, at Quebec, which would have been considered higlily creditable in I'aris or London. p 316 THE CA\ADA8. works, and the Montreal public library is fast over- taking its elder brother of Quebec. The Mechanics' Institution, school societies, agricultural associa- tions. Sec. all indicate the rapid progress of mind in Lower Canada. In Upper Canada the Press is also unstamped, paper unexcised, and advertisements free from tax ; the consequence is, a rapid increase of this neces- sary element of civilization. There are thirty news- papers in the province ; which have been thus classified on the occasion of Mr. Hurne's recent letter j eighteen support the existing state of things ; twelve oppose it. Three fully approved of Mr. Hume's letter, viz : the Correspondent, Advocate, and Reformer ; — three partly approved of it, viz : the BrockvUle Recorder, Spectator (Kingston), and St. Thomas Liberal. Six Whig papers were op- posed to it, viz : the Hamilton Free Press, British Whig (Kingston), British American Journal (St. Ca- tharines), Nui<^ara Reporter, Christian Guardian, and Granville Gazette (Prescott) ; — as were also the fol- lowing Tory papers : Sandwich Emigrant, St. Thomas Journal, London Free Patriot, Western Mercury, Dun- das Post, Niagara Gleaner, Canadian Wesleyan, Ca- nadian Freeman, Patriot, Port Hope Wonder, Cohurg Star, Belleville Standard, Halkncell Free Press, King- ston Chronicle, Kingston Herald, Cornwall Observer, and Upper Canada Ccmrier ; one is omitted in the Canadian analysis , it is supposed the Toronto Re- corder, a new Journal.* * A late number of the Canadian Courier says : within the last ten or twelve days we have received a copy of the first, SOCIAL STATK. 317 Another analysis states that ten Journals are Whig ; four ultra Toryj ten moderate Tory: two Orange, or of doubtful ( harartor ; one Literary, and one Official, 'J'he circulation of the Whigs is the greatest, but their advertising patronage not et^ual to that of the Tories. The Newspapers published in Toronto in 1834, were the Christian Guardian, Colonial Ad- vocate, Canadian Correspondrnt , Patriot, Upper Ca- nada (iazette, Courier, and Canadian Freeman. There is also a Canadian Magazine ; an Almanac or two ; and Annual Records, &c. In the capital there are an Agricultural Society, a Mechanics Institute, aMedico-Chirurgical Society, Literary and Philosophical do. ; Savings' Banks ; various Hospitals and charitable institutions, and Schools ; Temperance and liible Societies, &c. Social State.— The facts developed in the pre- ceding pages, amply demonstrate the progress which the Canadas ha\ e made in all the elements of social number of no less than four new papers which have been esta- blished 111 different parts of the province, viz. — The Brorktnlle Gnzette, well edited, and a little ultra tory in its politics ; it has for its motto the fo'lnwmg quotation from Holingbroke : "Those who are preparing to build up a Government, should recollect that the Kingly power ought to form the basis, and the popular the superstructure ; for, if you place a republic as the basis, and afterwards build a monarchy upon it, your build- ing will fall into ruins on the slightest shock." The Ph'i'u'u, at Belville. The Hamilton Free Press, edited with spirit and ability. The London Sun is published in the new Town of London, in the township of I.ondon, county of Middlesex, and district of London. It is very gratifying to observe these new sources of intelligence opening to the public in the ditferent sections of this thriving colony. * -A .- *-- ■ .....i 318 THE CANADAS. r I wealth j indeed in no country, ancient or modern, have there been such rapid strides in civihzation, as Upper Canada in particular has made ; the pro::res- sive state of wiiich may be estimated by the inland navigation now in full activity on Lake Ontario and the 8t. Lawrence, between Montreal and Kingston. I may here add, that there is a daily steam-packet between Montreal and Quebec (180 miles), the usual fares for which wore 20.v. cabin, and 5.V. steerage ; l>ut opposition has reduced the latter t j \s. Frt)ni the number of steam-boats building, in every direc- tion, and from the circumstance of the engines being now made at home, instead of in the mother coun- try, we may e.vpect yet greater facilities for travelling and communication in Upper Canada. 'Jhe stage and steam-boat line from Montreal to Prescott is the property of a joint stock company, under the title of ''The Canada Steam boat and Mail Coach Company." The number of horses on the line considerably exceeds a hundred, and the coaches are of sufficient number, at each station, to accommodate a large number of passengers. 'Ihc steamer Henry Broigham is on Lake St. Louis. The Brockville new steamer, built at the flourish- ing town whose name she bears, is one of the most })eautiful models, — length, 144 feet j breadth of beam, ^Z'-i feet 10 inches ; breadth on deck, 45 feet 3 and depth of the hold, 7 feet 6 inches in the clear. The promenade deck is 110 feet in length. She plies on Lake Ontario, •ii"«_ ,-.;■ -•«*»i*ii •Jir .■j(^i; r» «HI H ' J'" ' r i'»" SOCfAL STATE. 310 r modern, Ziition, as i proixres- tlie inland ntjirio and Kingston. im-packct , the usual steerage ; Ls. From ery direc- ines being her coun- t ravelling ontreal to company, t and Mail tisidcrably sufficient e a large Lake 8t. llourish- the most eadth of 45 feet 3 he clear, th. She The Iroquois was the first boat that attempted to ascend the powerful rapids between the head of the Long Sault and Prescott. The engine of the Iro- (juois is on the horizontal principle, with a large wheel in the stern -, her rudder is also on a novel plan, adapted to the navigation in which she is employed. Galoup Rapid, and the Rapid Plat, can now be ascended with ease, — a part of the St. Lawrence, pro- verbial for the extraordinary rapidity of its currents, and the romantic beauty of the surrounding scenery. The United Kingdom is one of I'iO-horse power, high pressure. She leaves Prescott every Monday afternoon, touching at Kingston, Toronto, and ar- riving at Niagara every Wednesday evening. The Cobourg is 152 feet in length on deck -, 36 feet in breadth of beam ; 1 1 feet in hold ; and 418 tons burthen, by admeasurement. She is propelled by two low pressure 50-horse power engines. She leaves Prescott on her upward trip (on the arrival of Wednesday's stages from Montreal) every Thursday evening, arriving at Niagara on Sunday. She leaves that place on her downward trip every Monday af- ternoon, touching at Toronto, &c. Steam-packets are constantly running between Prescott, York, and Niagara, and schooners every week to Rochester, Kingston, Hamilton, and every other direction. The increased intercourse between Upper and [jower Canada may be judged of from the rapid growth of Prescott, on the St. Lawrence, in the route from Montreal to Kingston, and distant from the former 127 miles, and from the latter 61 miles. In «»j» '^^N.-— i»*i..#,- -•ii='»««- :iio THE CAXADASt ^i 1815, the largest vessel employed for the transit ol" merchandise, between Kingston and Prescott, was one solitary schooner of only 40 tons burden. In 1833, there were 14 steam-boats, of different sizes, from 3() to 5(X) tons ; and 50 schooners, from 40 to 150 tons. These are employed between Prescott and the ports on Lake Ont.'irio, besides a number from Lake Erie, whose tonnages we could not ascer- tain*^. The register tonnages of the steam-boats and schooners amount to 5,6*47 tons ! 'J'his speaks volumes in behalf of the resources of the upper pro- vince, as well as of the industrious and enterprisirii;; spirit of its inhabitants. The number of buildings in Prescott, in 1815, was barely eight hoi^ses ; in 1833, its number nearly 300 ; all excellent buildings, some of which are not surpassed in size and elegance by any in the province. Its population in 181.'), did not exceed 50. In 1833, it numbered full 1,400. Such is the rapid progress of agricultural improvement in Upper Canada, that she can supply from her own internal resources her whole population with every kind of food, while the export of her raw and manufactured materials pays for all foreign luxuries, and leaves a balance in her favour. Her exports of wheat lastyear were f>9,94 8 bushels j and of wheat flour 48,801) barrels. This year ( 1 835) her exports will nearly double that of last year — these are cheering prospects. Although the yearly increase of her population, by immigration and otherwise, has, for some years past, been gre.at, yet it has not ke])t * Last year there were two steam-boats started on the Otonabee river, and one on Lake Siincoe. ■.-.= ..* J, .-,,,- SOCIAL STATE. 321 pace with the increase of her trade. Since 1 825 the forwarding business at Prescott has more than dou- bled every three years : this year it will double that of last year. From these facts we should infer that the population must be in prospering circumstances. Ill 1815 the entire population of the upper province did not exceed 40/XK) souls : in 1833, it exceeded 3(K),()00 ;* having thus, in 18 years, increased more than seven-fold. In 1815 the business was little more than nominal j at present, it almost exceeds belief. Were we asked to explain this, we would stcite, it is to be attributed to the inexhaustible re- sources of the country, and enterprising habits of the people, who {ire deep and shrewd calculators, fond of enterprise, persevering, and detern>ined in their dispositions and habits. A gentleman writing fr()mChatham,ontheThames, in July last, says ; — " We have now in progress a rail-road between this town to London, thence to Hamilton, on the head waters of Lake Ontario, which will connect Lakes Huron, St. Clair, Erie, and Ontario ; and from the work already performed, I doubt not it will be quite equal to the far-famed Manchester rail-road. Ten years since, not a white inhabitant was within 20 miles of this town ; we have now upwards of 18,000 active and industrious inhabitants in this township, with four mills, six pair of French bur stones, two breweries, many saw-mills, * A farm within the limits of the corporation. (Hamilton) was lately sold for 22,500 dollars ! the same about six years ago being purchased for 1,500 dol. It is to be laid out in building lots. VOL. I. Y * ( ! i 3^2 THE CANADA8. &c. We have ten steam-boats, some of them up- wards of 700 tons, plyina: between this and Lakes Michigan, Detroit, (iodiich, Sandwich, Chipawa, Buffalo, &c., with one of the most productive .soils in the world, that will yield \H to 2() barrels of the linest white wlieat per acre, without any manure, from 10 to 15 years to come. All British persons are entitled to 2(K) acres of land, at 15*. per acre- payment to be complete in 10 years. I would re- commend all persons to come out whose property is dwindled at home." The writer proceeds to say — " Settlers must work hard themselves, at the same time they should recollect it is on their own estates they are working-, and that they have no rent, tithes, taxes, &c. to pay, exce])t (id. per acre per year, the government tax for making roads, bridges, &c. after the land has been reclaimed seven years. In this township we have two large Protestant churches, four MethodiFt meeting-houses, two Presbyterian, and two Quaker meeting-houses, a Roman Catholic chapel, three endowed schools, two newspapers (pub- lished three times a week), a ladies' boarding-school, an excellent commercial and classical academy ; an agricultural society has also been established here ; all creeds live here on very friendly terms, and much united, — endeavour to forward each other's views and interest by mutual good offices." There is no exaggeration in the foregoing picture ; it is a noble proof of what Britons can accomplish. An American journalist of the present year, speak- ing of the United States portion of Lake Erie, say;', that the first vessel nav igating its waters, under the American flag, was in I'iVO, which was a schooner SOCIAL STATK. 3«3 of 70 tons burthen. Up to 1810 there were not more than four or five other vessels of a himihir size. ' Now,' says the American writer, ' Lake Erie ap})ears like a frequented track in the liighway of commercial nations. Its waters are navigated by '}0 steam-boats, (exclusive of other American steam- boats connected with them, and running on the De- troit river and Lake Midiigan), and 150 sloops and schooners. 1 he shipj»ing- on this lake has increased, in the tliree la^t years, from 6 to IH,0 dol. 51 cents more thnji the receipts of the preceding year." * Buffalo is on the Amevioaii shorp of I^ake Krie at its S. E. extremity, whi re the Niagara river commences to connect Krie and Ontario. The evi-r speculating Americans project cutting a ^hijj canal to connect these lakes, thus openiufr u|) the whok' commerce of the Ohio territory, (which is connected witli Lake Ontario hy a canal, ?>'.)! miles, commenced in 1h2.') and com-- pleted m seven years, at a cost of £2,000,1)00 sterhng !j to Now York, and thus avoidiuf.' the tedious and dangerous navi- gation of the Mississippi, Oult (jf Mexi(!o, and the Atlantic. A shrewd American merchant says, that uniess the Yankees open a steam- boat communicatit>n between New York and the great lakes, their whole commerce from Supcriui downwards will centre in Montreal. J 32< TIIK CANADAS. On the whdic, Upper (aiiiulii holds out an eliijjihlr situation for rmip;rants of the higher class, and abundance of employment f(»r those of the labourinti; community. To the foirner I should observe, that no person (excei)t United Englishmen, Loyalists/ or those entitled by existing regulations to the (Jo- vernment free grants) can obtain any of the wast** ( rown Lands otherwise than by purchase : the sales take place under the direction of a Commissioner on the first and third 'J'uesday of every month in the different districts. The lands are put up at an up^ct price, of which notice is given at the time of adver- tising the sale, and the conditions are one-fourth of the purchase-money paid down — the remainder in three equal annual instalments, with interest at G per cent. ])ayable on and with each instalment : when this is completed a patent for the lands is issued free of <*harge. The clergy reserves are sold on these terms -—10 per cent, payable at the time, and the remainder in nine annual instalments of '2 per cent, each, with interest. Tliere are occasional sales of town lots, &r. The general size of u township is (>9,(X)0 acres — 1*^ miles by nine, say with nine lines of nine miles eacli, (crdled concession lines), 400 rods apart, upon eai'i of which a narrow line is reserved for a road : then are also two cross or check lines, each at right angles to the concession lines, and three miles apart, upon which the corners of the lots are marked, 80 I * On the separation of the United States from Great Britai'.:, those, who preserved their allegiance to the British Crown and fled to Canada, were entitled to 200 acres of land each, by Act of Parliament. SOCIAL STATK. ■dz: rmfs apart ; thus 400 rodi^ dtvp, with 8() rods front, gives ^2(X) acres to each lot, with a road iti the front and rear of the farm. It is difhcidt to ascertain the ijuanfity of lands settled or ungranted in the provinct . In IHJO, ac- cording to a document in the Snrveyor-(icner d's Office, the surveyed townshijiS appeared thus : — Granted prior to 18()4, '1,5 acres , Crown and Clergy reserves 2-7 ths, 4,1 12,750, total, 5,G80,1H1* acres. Although a great part of the Crown re-ierves have been sold to the lJp|)er Canada Company, and a very valuable part of them given to the University, it is estimated that there art- still upwards of 5,(KM),0(K) acres of good land open for settlement without going north of the back line where 7 or H,<)(X),(»(>0 acres of excellent soil may yet be found. Exclusive of the lots remaining ungranted in the surveyed townships before mentioned, the rough estimate by Mr. Ri- chards, the Commissioner of Land, at j)rcsent avail- able in round numbers is : — In townships not surveyed from Luther to Zero, 730,0(K) acres ; in the Newcastle district and joining the Home ditto, 550,(XK) ; in the western ditto, west of the Upper Canada Company, 350,(K)0 ; in the London ditto, north of ditto, 340,(X)0 ; in ditto, not yet purchased fi>)m the Chippewa Indians, '2,.)()U,(X)0 acres ; total, 4,470,(XK) acres. 3'2(i THE CAXADAS. It must be self-evident, that for years to come. Upper Canada can find room for an immense popu- lation ; its fertile soil, the productive nature of tlie fine climate, extensive water communication, and beautiful scenery, peculiarly fit it for the reception of British emigrants. Lower Canada has certainly not kept pace in its advancement and prosperity with the Upper pro- vince : this may be accounted for partly by the dis- position of the Canadians of French descent, and partly by the nature of the landed tenures along the St. Lawrence. It must, however, be admitted, that the political disputes in the Lower Province have tended much to unsettle men's minds, and to pre- vent emigrants of respectability from settling in the Colony : I trust that the disputes between the French and English party are drawing to a close ; the main object of the former is, that the Legislative Council should be an elective chamber, chosen by a higher class of electors than those who exercise the fran- chise for returning members to the House of As- sembly ; and, secondly, that all the revenues raised within the province should be at the disposal of the representatives of those from whom it is levied. I offer here no opinion on either of those points, they are fully treated of in my Colonial Policy, and will be settled, I trust, to the satisfaction of all parties, by his Majesty's Commissioners now in Canada. The tide of emigration has for some time been settling towards the North American continent, as shewn by the following returns : — SOCIAL STATE. 327 Emigrants to Uic British N. American Colonies and to the U. States, 1825 1 1826 1827 1828 1829 To N. American Colonies To United States . . . . 1 8741 5551, 12818 /063 1 12648 14526, 12084 12817 1330/ 15678 Total .. .. 14292 19881 271 "4 24901 28985 1830 I83I 1832 1833 I 1834 ToN. American Colonies! 30574 58(>*)7' 66339 28808 To United States .. .. 24887 23418, 32872 29109 I 40060 33074 Total 55461 H1485 99211 5791/1 "3134 Of the foregoing', a large number in the first line were for Upper and Lower Canada, and many who shipped themselves for New York did so for cheap conveyance, and on account of the winter season, afterwards passed over into Canada. The number of emigrants proceeding to ("anada the first year after the peace was about 1,^50 ; from that period the number has gradually increased, and the following shews the number who arrived in Quebec from 1819 to 1B34 :— 1819,12,907; 1820,11,^39; 1821,8,050; 1822, 10,468 ; 1823, 10,258 ; 1824, 6,515 ; 1825, 9,097 ; 1826, 10,731 ; 1827, 16,862, 1828, 11,697 ; IJ^29 13,356; 1830,24,391; 1831,49,250; 1832,51,422; 1833, 21,752 3 1834, 30,933,— shewing a total in 1 6 years of 298,928 persons. In conclusion, 1 may observe, that the father of a large family, or the young man without occupation at home, has, in the Canadas, ample scope for em- ployment ; and I trust that no mistaken views of 328 THE CANADAS. expected commercial advantages may prematurely force those line agricultural colonies into manufac- turing communities, but that they become the gra- nary of England, and continue as heretofore an in- valuable addition to the British maritime empire. In 1807 the gross revenue of Canada was about 30,000/. J in 1833 it was 227,314/. including 30,000/. payable to upper Canada as its share of t'le Custom dues received at Quebec on merchandise of general use. The Emigrants arriving at Quebec and Montreal were from — 1829 iHau \H-M 1832 1833 1834 England. 3,565 6,799 10,343 7,481 5,198 6,799 Ireland, 9,614 18,300 34,133 28,204 12,013 ■ 9.206 Scotland, 2,643 2,450 5,236 5,500 4,196 4,591 Totel, 15,822 27,549 49,812 61,186 21,40/ 30,596 The emigrants had, it was estimated, with them in 1832, specie to the amount of 700,000/. sterhng. The foregoing returns .sufficiently demonstrate the extent to which emigration has taken place. I close them with the following statement of the lo- cation of the settlers (the latest in my possession), and which shows how much Upper Canada is a fa- vourite with the emigrants. 1829 1830 1831 1832 England, 3,565 6,799 10,243 17,731 Scotland, 2,643 2,450 6,354 4,379 Ireland, 9,614 18,300 34,133 27,681 Other parts. 123 451 424 164 Total, 15,945 28,000 51,154 49,905 Emigrants to the Lower Ports, not included in EMIGRATION. 329 the above, for the years 1825, 27, 29, 30, 31, 32, 36,000. EMIGRANTS INTENDING TO Settle in L. Canada. From England Ireland Scotland Neighbouring Pro vinces New Vork ^ -1601 \ urxi J2U3\ 11512' / 93fi I 77i ^ /■!; { Proceed to Up. Canada. u. S Proceed to Nova Scotia. &c. X lH a 0) I la' Grand Total. 5' 111 1675 / ""6 148 16 1136 15097 23985 2682 ri2 I 'Ji ri2| \ 10 21 22 ; 10502 I 7229 / 16281 1. 11350 r 2494 I 188.% r 77 I 71 \ 11 Total N. B. Tlie first line of figures in each column shows the number ol males, while the second exhibits the number of females. These details, I repeat, show the extent to which emigration has been carried, and the rate at which it is still progressing ; whether an island like Eng- land is weakened by it, or one like Ireland, with a more dense population than China, '^ the reader will iind discussed in my Colonial Policy, I proceed next to show the rates of wages and provisions, in order * China with 352,866,012 mouths, on ^u area of 1,225,823 i>quare miles, has 2SH mouths to chch square mile : Ireland with 8,000,000 mouths, on an area of 27,000 square miles, has almost 300 mouths to the square mile ! Kiii^land has 250 mouths to the square mile : Wales 1 10 : Scotland 80 mouth.** to the square mile ; the average for the United Kingdom houig 220 mouths to each square mile. Whether nations should not, like bees, send out their annual swarms, in order to make room for new generations, is a question deserving considera- tion. ' I I I i 3^0 THE CANADAS. that those who are determined on emigrating may judge for themselves, WAGES AND PRICE OF PROVISIONS. The rate of wages at Kingston, Upper Canada, during the whole of 1833, was — for masons, 7s. 6d.; carpenters and joiners, 6s. 6d. j labourers, 3.«.'to 3*. 6d. J plastering, including materials, three coat work l,s. 8d. per yard ; building, per toise, 12s. 6(i. of 72 solid feet, for labour only j no walls taken at less than two feet thick. The prices of country produce in the Market at Toronto, on the morning of Wednesday, the 9th July, 1834, were : — Firewood, cord, lis. 'Ad. a 12«. 6ri. ; beef, lb. S^d. a 4<<. ; eggs, doz. Id. ; cheese, 6rf. a Ihd. ; butter, lb. Id. a lid, ; oats, bushel, 1*. a Is. 3d.; barley, do. 3,». lid.; wheat, 60 lbs. '.is. 9d. a 3s. 10(i. ; flour, fine, barrel, 18«. 9(/. rt 20.s'. — Mont- real, July 5, 1834. The following is an average of the prices of pro- visions in Lower Canada. X ber. • a ^ c i -> s S ►% .^ 2; s. d. s. d. s. d. s. rf- s. rf. s. rf. Wheat, bis. b 3 5 1 5 4 5 3 5 1 5 6 Maize, do. 3 10 3 3 3 2 3 3 3 3 3 1 Oats, do. 2 4 i fi 2 3 3 2 2 8 2 6 Barley, do. a () 3 8 Z 10 3 10 3 10 3 10 Potatoes, do. 2 2 6 2 6 2 6 2 6 2 6 Butter, fresh, lb. 1 3 1 3 1 1 1 1 3 Do. salt, do. 11 11 11 » 9 n Cheese, lb. 5 6 5 5 5 6 Hay, 100 bundles 40 l.'i 50 50 45 45 Straw, do. 12 fi 12 6 15 15 15 12 6 Bread, 4lb. K af 7 7 7 / 7 7 Meat, stone 3 fi 3 fi 4 6 4 3 6 3 8 Beef, lb. 3 3i 4 4 3i 3 Mutton, Jo. 4 4i 5 5 4^ 4 Pork, do. 5 5 4i 4i 4 h Veal, do. 6 6 5 4* 44 6 Flour, 100 lbs. IS 16 14 y 14 0|ll ,14 6 Fine do. do. 14 6 15 13 13 613 9 114 Seconds, do. do. 13 ,13 6 13 10 12 12 6 13 10 1 EMIGRATIOX. 331 Lting may r Canada, IS, 7s. 6d. ; 3s.* to Ss. hree coat 12s. 6d. of ) taken at )*i country e morning ii^d. a 4il. ; Id. a 7ii/, ; heat, 60 lbs. 20.S.— Mont- ;es of pro- 1 • u V ja S w t» o 55 d. s. d. 1 5 6 3 3 1 8 2 6 10 3 10 6 2 6 1 3 9 11 5 6 45 12 fi 7 7 6 3 8 341 3 44 4 4 5 4i 6 il4 6 9 |14 6 112 10 Prxces at Montrfdl m 1834.]— Ashes, pot, per cwt. 22.«. 6d a 'Jilis. ; pearl do. 23s. Cd. a 24s. ; pork, mess, per bairel, 30*. ; prime mess, do. 42s. f,d. prime, .5.').v. 3d. In Upper Canada the wag-e.s of labour are more likely to continue high than in Lower Canada, except in the eastern townships. The wages at the Royal Engineer OflTue, Quebec. Class per day in Cur. Pay ; Class per day in t ur. I'ay. 1831 1832 1831 1832 s. d. s, d. «. d. s. d. ons 1 60 60 Carpenters J 4 6 r, 2 .5 (5 5 6 2 4 4 6 3 5 5 0{ 3 3 6 4 4 46 4 6 Smiths l 4 6 4 6 S 4 4 0! 2 4 4 e 3 6 3 6! 3 Labourers, I class, 2.t. (id. 9 2 3 .'» 2 3 6 3 6 Labourers at the Cove, 3s. ChI. per day ; better informed class, 5s. 3 boom men, 5s. . broad-axe do. 5s. to 7s. 6(1. ; narrow do. 4s. 6d. to 5s. ; sawyers, 6s. 6d. J labourers on board ships, 3s. 6'd. to 5s. per day, and found in the best of every thing. The same rate of wages, with occasional variations, still exists. These statements will enable a man, who has no other wealth than his labour, or his skill as a trades^ man, to estimate his value in Canada ; where there u 1 332 THE CANADAS. is Still room for a population of many millions. The emigrant, who has a little capital with which to commence farming, may judge of the soil, from the following specimen of American farming, opposite the Canadian territory, according to a statement just received from the United States. Ten acres of orchard ground produced 25 tons of hay ; 26 acres of maize, 1580 bushels ; 4 acres of wheat, 140 , ! acre of flax, 600 ; 8 acres of oats, 560 j 1 acre of barley 60 ; 2 acres of potatoes, 10(K) : 2 acres of vegetables fattened 400 chickens. Much of the industry of the American farmers is exercised in rearing cattle, hogs, and poultry, for the market of the towns. The hogs are fed chiefly on In- dian corn, and the plenty of that kind of grain often makes it be given to them, when they might be fat- tened on much cheaper stuff. The rearing and feeding of cattle is carried on very systematically, and to a great extent ; there being drovers, as in this country, who purchase the beasts from the farmers, and often drive them as far as 600 miles lo be sold. New York consumes about 700 oxen per week, weighing on an avertige 55 stone of 14 lbs. each. Canada presents many other features deserv- ing of the attention of the int. iding emigrant, and which a man of shrewd mind may gather from the foregoing statements. 333 CONCLUSION. The preceding pages will, it is to be hoped, convey an accurate idea of the Canadas to the general reader, and enable him to estimate in some degree the progress and civilization of this highly impor- tant section of the British Empire ; those who seek further details, as contained in elaborate statistical tables, will find abundant materials in the large Edition of my work. fn the present edition, I have not entered into any disquisition resjiecting the political disputes now unhappily prevailing in Lower Canada, — but it may be necessary for thti general reader to know, that two jjarties exist in the Province, — the one calling itself the French party, consisting of the descendants of the original French or Acadian Settlers, — the other being British and Irish emi- grants and their descendants. It is diilicult to esti- mate the numerical strength of these parties ; — those of French origin are stated by M. Papineau (who is the Speaker of the House of Assembly and their leader) at 525,CKK) — whjle the British are rec- koned at about 75,(XX>. This, however, is incor- rect ; the latter are estimated by their party at 150,000^ so far as to their numbers ^ with regard to their intelligence, wealth, and station in society, ^♦^»- .^«>»i#T V^^»tfc«M«h»Jt >'^ ■■» mNi t ^.- * *.»u:^.4^ j^>*^t tl^ i^> 334 TBE CAXADA8. '- 1 there is less difficulty in forming a judgnoient ; the British and Irish confii)rize according to the state- ment of the *' Constitutional Association of Que- bec," nearly all the merchants, the principal Mem- bers of the learned jirofessions, a large body of skilful and wealthy artizans, mechanics, and a great number of respectable and industrious agriculturists, possessing extensive reid estate, and holding by far the greatest portion of the capital employed in the pursuits of trade and industry. The party, howev'er, who by reason of the ex- tended elective franchise return the greatest number of deputies to the HouhC of Assembly, are the hahi- tans or farmers of the province,— men of estimable character, simple habits, and but little experienced in politictd matters : they are consequently too liable to beintluenced by designing individuals, who may wish to make a trade of agitation and turn it to their personal interest and pecuniary advantage. JSuch men avail themselves of the existence of every grievance, however slight, which they magnify to the greatest possible extent, and fan by unceasing eftorts the smallest excitement into a flame. The (iovernment, on the other hand, have for a series of years done little or nothing to meet the coming storm ; abuses of various kinds were permitted, pluralities of places sanctioned — and frauds left un- punished. The result has been, that u few men either really, or aifectedly imbued with philanthropic views, have sown the seeds of dissension in the colony and are now reaping an abundant harvest. National CONCLUSION. 33 :> prejudices have been appealed to by the leaders of the hiibitcins — the British and Iri.sh C mists have been denounced as foreigners, monopolists, and despots, and discord with its fell brand has lit a torch which time and judicious measures can alone extinji^ish: The House of Assembly demanded an unconditional control over the Crown (and other,) revenues ; — this demand should have been met with cfilmness and acceded to, on the granting of a proper Civil list, whereby the chief oihcera of the Government, — the Judges, &c. should have been rendend indepen- dent of the annual vote of the House of Assembly. But no tact or discretion was used, and the Colonial oflicers would have gone without tlieir salaries but for the loan of a sum of money from the Military or Commissariat Chest, whence the troops are paid by Great Britain, and which sum the French party hesitate to refund. The Government have now conceded what ought never to have been refused — namely the abolition of pluralities in the public ofiices,— the removal of political judges — and the .settlement of the revenue and civil list ; but a new demand has been made by the leaders of the French party j who, conscious that tiic Legis- lative Council, st> long as it is elected by the Crown, is a bar to their proceeding, are anxious to make it elective by the people as in the United .States. It is not within my province here to discuss this ([uestion ; the full examination of so momentous a topic belongs to my Colonial Policy ; but I would earnestly entreat all classes in the province to mo- derate their political animosities, to reflect that by f 336 TIIK CAN ADAS. making the Colony a hot-bed for strife, they are not merely poisonitjp^ the sources of individual hap- piness, but essentially retarding- the progressive im- provement of their country. Every thing that ib desirable for the welfare of tiie Settlement is at- tainable by mildness and calm remonstrance ; and while on the one hand I would counsel the Govern- ment at home and at Quebec, to grant with a good grace, and in time, every liberal measure consistent with the wants and wishes of the people and the due prerogative of the Crown, — so on the other 1 would earnestly recommend the so called French party not to make demands which a little reilectioii will teach them England cannot at present grant, and even if she could, it is more than doubtful whether an elective Legislative Assembly would under present circumstances be adapted to the happiness of the colony. By loyalty — by obedience to the laws — and by social concord, Canada will make more rapid strides in wealth and strength than she has even yet accomplished ; and when the Canadians reflect thai there are things dearer to mankind than riches or political power, they will not, I trust, rashly fling away the substance by grasping at the shadow, — they will remember that the neighbouring republic, with 2,000,000 African slaves within its territory, and a host of minor differences, now requires the ut most exertion to preserve its territorial integrity ; and that sooner or later the present United States will be divided into a numlier of petty oligarchical republics, or consolidated in an empire, with a single rONCLUSION. 337 despot swaying the destinies of millions. In fine. Canada has every thing to lose, and nothing to gain bv revolutionary proceedings ; and I fervently hope the day i far distant, when its innocent, brav?, and ho8pital)le people may, eitlier by factious proceed- m^s or coercive measures, be iiulucedto forfeit thai allegiance to the British Crown which it h their in- tereHt — their honour— and their duty to preserve inviolate. Lr)WKR CANADA, t'lMS. I ' PRfNTED BY W. NICOL, 51, PAI.I, M.1I t. PROSPECTUS OK THI'. BRITISH COLONIAL LIBRARY Thk colonies of Uritnin arc without a parallel in the lilfttory of the wiirlil. !d eacli hemi''i)hi!re, under every zone, ami beneath various climo>', ONE iii'NURKi) ANi> THIRTY Mii.i.iovs of hunifiu l)i'in(fs, (liffer- iiiK in colour, lan^UHge, laws, relig-ion, institutions and manners, are linked tojjether in u Maritime Empire, on wliicti the sun never sets, and over whose vast and fertile area the blessings of civilization and Christianity are rapidly extending, diffusing light and life into every icction of the habitable earth. It has been a matter of sun)rise, that, while wc have historical accounts of almost every other section of the Globe, of whatever extent or importance, we should he without any History of these invaluable jjOhSessions, now so closely connected with our country, and forming s«) vast and intcrcstinip a portK>n of the Hritish Empire. To supply this desideratum, and tu lay before the public in h couiplete and popular form, and at an easily accessible price, the History of our several Colonies, separated as they arc by jfcogra- phical distinctions, and yet connected by political institutions and commercial intercourse, is the i)bject of "The Hnrnsu Coi.omal LiniiARV i"Tbe work will he published in monthly volumes, illustrated with Eni,'ravings and Maps, and will embrace the History of the Con- quest or Cession, and early »ettlcnicnt of each Colony, an account of the Climate, Geology, Natural Hi.story, Population, Government, Kmance, Commerce, Manufactures, Staple Products, Monetary System, Religion, Education and the Press, Value of Property — moveable and immoveable, Military Defences, Social State, Character, Manneis, Progress of Civilization, &c. ;— nothing, in fact, being omitted which ■nay be useful to Emigrants, or serve to convey to the general en- quirer an exact idea of the acti'ai. conuitio.v of eacli Settlement; thus rendering the work one which will blend the useful with the agreeable — the instructive with the entertaining. It remains only to be added, that the author has passed one-third of his life, either as an officer in His Majesty's service, or as a private individual, exploring the Colonies of the British Empire j that since his return to Europe his stores of information have bei'u enriched by official documents, never before published, derived from.the Colonial Office, the India Housa, the Board of Trade, the Custom-House, &c., and by many very valuable private and semi-official communications from the various Companies connected with the Colonies, the Go- vernors 01 each Settlement, and numerous Merchants interested in their welfare in London and Liverpool, as well as in the Colonies themse;?e8. H SYNOPSIS OF t i TMK BRITISH COJ ONIAL LIBRARY, !n Monthly Vobnnes, Six Shillinf^M each, ILLIJSTRATKD BY ENGRAVINGS AND MAPS. Thk Canadas, Upper and Lower, Nkw South Wales. Van Dibmen's Land, Swan River, and South Adsthama. The C H( Mj ritmis, Seychelles, the Falkland Islanos, St, Helkna, and Ascension. 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