IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) y W A f/. fA 1.0 11.25 |S6 ■2£ 1^ M 12.2 It: 1.1 I '^ 1^ U 11.6 Vi ^ /7m/ ^^^^«^ 4V% .> Photographic Sciences Corporation ^ fV ^ o [V <^>. ^^ ^ ^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ^ r o i/.A V o ^i;* ?)^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICIVIH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Kistorical IVIicroreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. D D D D D D D D D D D Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur Covers damaged/ Couverture endommag^e Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaurde et/ou pelliculde Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque Coloured maps/ Cartes gdographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ Relid avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ Lareliure serr^e peut causer de i'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge int6rieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajoutdes lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela dtait possible, ces pages n'ont pas 6t6 filmdes. Additional comments:/ Commentaires suppl^mentaires; L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-dtre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la m^thode normale de filmage sont indiquds ci-dessous. I I Coloured pages/ 1/ □ Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommag^es □ Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restaur^es et/ou pelliculdes Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages ddcoior^es, tachetdes ou piqu^es I I Pages detached/ Pages ddtach^es Showthrough/ Transparence Quality of prir Quality indgale de {'impression Includes supplementary materii Comprend du materiel supplementaire Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible l~T] Showthrough/ I I Quality of print varies/ I I Includes supplementary material/ I I Only edition available/ Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible 'mage/ Les pages totalement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont 6tj filmdes d nouveau de fa^on d obtenir la ineilleure image possible. This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est fiimd au taux de reduction tndiqud ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X / 12X 16X 20X 26X 30X 24X 28X H 32X aire details ues du t modifier ger une > filmage The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: Library of the Public Archives of Canada The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. L'exemptaire film6 fut reproduit grdce d la g6n6rosit4 de: La bibliothdque des Archives publiques du Canada Les images suivantes ont 6X6 reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettet6 de I'exemplaire film6, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage, j^es Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. Les exempiaires originaux dont ia couverture en papier est imprim6e sont filmds en commenpant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la dernidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration. soit par le second plat, selon le cas. Tous les autres exempiaires originaux sont film6s en commenqant par la premidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustretion et en term, la.it par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol — •»> (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbole — •^- signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbole V signifie "FIN". ire Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmds d des taux de reduction diff6rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clichd, il est filmd d partir de Tangle supdrieur gauche, de gauche 6 droite, et de haut en bas. en prenant le nombre d'images n6cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m6thode. ly errata ed to int ne pelure, i^on d 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 rn REPORT or THE EXPLORING EXPEDITION TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS IN THE YEAR 1842, AND TO OREGON AND NORTH CALIFORNIA IN 'IHE YEARS l843-'44. BT BREVET CAPTAIN J. C. FREMONT, OP THE TOFOORAPHICAL ENQINEERS, UNDER THE ORDERS OF COL. J, J. ABERT, CHIEF OF THE TOPOGRAPHICAL BUREAU. PRINTED BT OHnEIl or THE SENATE OF THE UNITED STATES. WASHINGTON: OALES AND SEATON, PRINTERS. ^ i:' \ «; ill J 1S45. V » IN SENATE OF THE UNITED STATES. March 3, 1845. Rtioked, That the Sacretary of War be requested to commuiiicate to the Senate, it' it be pre- pared, and if not, to the Secretary of the Senate during the reccBs, Brevet Captain Fremont's report of his late expedition to Oregon, in the year.^ 1843-'44 ; and tliat there be printed for the use of the Senate ten thousand extra copies of lliat report, together with the report of his expedition to tht Rocky mountains in 1 842, which is hereby directed to be reprinted with the report of the last expedition. Attest : ASBURY DICKINS, Secretary of the Senate. F F7 The 1 having ploring deemed of pubU time, an natiirallj two con; now con tains, an( Soutli Pi of the m latter the their rise sun. Tl: connects great the Oregon i mencing, gives rise of CaUfo to examii commiini complete gion whi( The mi trate the < will be pr appearan( .science on tual opera ling and t Missouri i ^/4' iPL. NOTICE TO THt: READER. ^. The Senate of the United States, and the House of Representatives having eacli ordered ten tho isand copies of the reports of the two ex- ploring expeditions conducted by me, to be printed together, I have deemed it regular and natural to place the report of 1842 first in the order of publication, although heretofore printed ; it being first in the order of time, and first in the progress of actual exploration. The two reports naturally go together, the second being a continuation of the first, and the two constituting parts of a whole, which will require a third expedition, now commencing, to complete. The first terminated at the Rocky moun- tains, and at the two points of greatest interest in that ridge — namely, the South Pass, and Fremont's Peak; the former being the lowest depression of the mountains, through which the road to Oregon now passes, and the latter the highest elevation, from the base of which four great rivers take their rise, and flow in opposite directions, toward the rising and the setting sun. The second, after approaching the mountains by a diff'erent route, connects with the first expedition at the South Pass, and thence finds the great theatre of its labors west of the Rocky mountains, and between the Oregon river and North California. The third expedition, now com- mencing, will be directed to that section of the Rocky mountains which gives rise to the Arkansas, the Rio Grande del Norte, and the Rio Colorado of California ; and will extend west and southwest of that section, so as to examine the country towards the Pacific ocean, ascertain the lines of communication between the mountains and the ocean in that latitude, and complete the examination of the Great Salt lake and of the interesting re- gion which embosoms it. The map which illustrated the report of 1842 is now extended to illus- trate the entire expedition of 1843-'44, so that a view of both expeditions will be presented together. This map may have a meager and skeleton appearance to the general eye, but is expected to be more valuable to science on that account, being wholly founded upon positive data and ac- tual operations in the field. About ten thousand miles of actual travel- ling and traversing in the wilderness which lies between me frontiers of Missouri and the shores of the Pacific, almost every camping station being I ■ ■■ Ihe scene of astronomical or baromfliical observations, furnish the mate- rials out of which this map has been const ructeil. Nothing snpposiiitious lias Itet'u aduiiitiMl upon it; so thai, connecting with Captain Wilkes'ssnr vey of the mouth of the Columbia, and with the authentic surveys of i\n' State of Missouri, it fills up the vast geographical chasm bciweeu these two remote points, and presenisa coimected and accurate view of oin con- tinent from the Mississippi river to the Pacilic ocean. To this geographical map, delineating tin: face of the country ovci which we travelled, there is added another in profile, showing the eleva- tions, or the rise and fall of the country from the Mississippi to the Pacific. East of the Rocky mountains, two of these profile views are given — one from St. Louis to the South Pass, the other from the mouth of the Great Platte to the same point. The latter is the shortest ; and following, as it does, the regular descent of the river, and being seven hundred miles west of the Mississippi, it may be that the eastern teriniuns of this line may furnish the point at which the steamboat and tlie sfeana car may hereafter meet and exchange cargoes in their magic fliglu acro.ss this continent. These profile views, following the travellii^g routes, of course follow he lowest and levellest lines, and pass the nioimtain at the point of its great- est depression ; but to complete the view, and to show the highest points as well as the lowest levels, many lofty peaks are .sketched at their proper elevations, towering many thousands of feet above the travelling line. It may here be excusable to suggest that these profile maps here exhibited are, perhaps, the most extended work of the kind ever constructed, being from St. Louis (according to the route we travelled) near sixteen hundred miles to the South Pass ; from the mouth of the Great Platte to the same Pass, about one thousand more ; and then another sixteen hundred from that Pass to the tide water of the Oregon; in all, about four thousand miles of profile mapping, founded upon nearly four hundred barometrical positions, with views sketched and facts noted in the field as we went. In the departments of geological and botanical science, 1 have not ven- tured to advance any opinions on my own imperfect knowledge of those branches, but have submitted all my specimens to the enlightened judg- ment of Dr. Torrey,of New Jersey, and Dr. Hall, of New York, who have kindly classified and arranged all that I was able to submit to them- The botanical observations of Dr. Torrey will be furnished in full here- after, there not being time to complete them now. The remarks of Dr. Hall, on the geological specimens furnished to him, will be found in an appendix to the report; and to his palaeontological .skill I am indebted for the discovery of an oolitic formation in the region west of the Rocky mountains, which further examuiation may prove to assimilate the geo.ogy of the New to that of the Old World in a rare particular, which had not before been discovered in either of the two Americas. Unhappily, much of what we had collected was lost by accidents of serious import to ourselves, as wsii as to our animals and collections. In the gorges and ridges of tho Sierra Nevada, of the Alta California, we lost fourteen horses and mules, falling from rocks or precipices into chasms or rivers, bottom- less to ui and to them, and one of them loaded with bales of plants col- lected on a line of two thousand miles of travel; and, when almost home, our camp en the banks of the Kansas was deluged by the great flood which, lower down, spread terror and desolation on the borders of the Missouri and Mississippi, and by which great damage was done to our remaining perishable specimens, all wet and saturated with water, and which we had no time to dry. Still, what is saved will be some respect- able contribution to botanical science, thanks to the skill and care of Dr- Torrey ; and both in geology and botany the maps will be of great value, the profile view showing the elevations at which the specimens were found, and the geographical map showing the localities from which they come. The astronomical observations, taken with good instruments, have been tested, where they were most important, by a three-fold computation : one by Professor Walker, of Philadelphia, whose astronomical reputation is so great ; another by Mr. Joseph C. Hubbard, a promising young mathema- tician from Connecticut ; the third by myself ; so that the correctness of the longitudes and latitudes may well be relied upo^". In sketching the topographical features of the country, a branch of science m which he had been professionally educated, Mr. Charles Preuss had been my assistant in both expeditions; and to his extraordinary skill, supported by the pleasure he felt in the execution of his duties, I am in- debted for the. continuous topographical sketches of the regions through which we passed, and which were never interrupted by any extremity of fatigue or privation. The barometrical and meteorological observations were carefully made with good instruments, and admit of no material error beyond the minute deviations inseparable from such operations. The third expedition, now commencing, is undertaken with more ample means than the two former ; and, being directed to a region so interesting in itself, and so new to science, can hardly fail to requite the enterprise which explores it. The report, or narrative, of this extended expedition, like the maps which illustrate it, will be strictly confined to what was seen, and to what IS necessary to show the face and character of the country, and to add ^ m < ! something to science while fulfilhng the instructions of the Government, which chi*?fly contemplated a military topographical survey. A greater degree of popular interest might have been imparted to it by admitting a greater latitude of detail, but it was deemed best to adhere to the rigorous character of a report, and to present nothing, either in the narrative or in the maps, which was not the result of positive observation. J. C. FREMONT, Brevet Captain Topographical Engineers. Washington City, March, 1845. •it ti A REPOR r ev AN EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY tTINO Bl.IWtI.K lUL MISSOURI RIVER AND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, t>» XBE LIKS OF 4 THE KANSAS AND GREAT PLATTE RIVERS. I trl i i 28tli CoNonGss, 2(1 Semon. [SENATE.] [ J74 ] REPORT Washington, March 1, 1843. To Colonel J. J. Abert, Chief of (he Corps of Topographical Engineers : Sir : Agreeably to your orders lo explore and report upon the country between the frontiers of Missouri and the South Pass in the Rocky moun- tains, and on the line of the Kansas and Great Platte rivers, I sat out from Washington city on the 2d day of May, 1842, and arrived at St. Louis, by way of New York, the 22d of May, where the necessary preparations were completed, and the expedition commenced. I proceeded in a steamboat to Chouteau's landing, about four hundred miles by water from St. Louis, and near the mouth of the Kansas river, whence we proceeded twelve miles to Mr. Cyprian Chouteau's trading house, where we completed our final arrangements for the expedition. Bad weather, which interfered with astronomical observations, delayed us several days in the early part of June at this post, which is on the right bank of the Kansas river, about ten miles above the mouth, and six |)e- yond the western boundary of Missouri. The sky cleared off at length, and we were enabled to determine our position, in longitude 94° 25' 46", and latitude 39° 5' 57". The elevation above the sea is about 700 feet. Our camp, in the mean time, presented an animated and bustling scene. All were busily occupied in completing the necessary arrangements for our campaign in the wilderness, and profiting by this short delay on the verge of civilization, to provide ourselves with all the little essentials to comfort in the nomadic life we were to lead fo; the ensuing summer months. Gradually, however, every thing — the materiel of the camp, men, horses, and even mules — settled into its place, and by the 10th we were ready to depart ; but, before we mount our horses, I will give a short de- scription of the party with which I performed this service. I had collected in the neighborhood of St. Louis twenty-one men, prin- cipally Creole and Canadian voyugeurs, who had become familiar with prairie life in the service of the fur companies in the Indian country. Mr. Charles Preuss, a native of Germany, was my assistant in the topographi- cal part of the survey. L. Maxwell, of Kaskaskia, had been engaged as hunter, and Christopher Carson (more familiarly known, for his exploits in the mountains, as Kit Carson) was our guide. The persons engaged in St. Louis were : C16ment Lambert, J. B. L'Esperance, J. B. Lefevre, Benjamin Potra, Louis Gouin, J. B. Dumes, Basil Lajeunesse, Francois Tessier, Benjamin Cadotte, Joseph Clement, Daniel Simonds, Leonard Benoit, Michel Morly, Baptiste Bernier, Honor6 Ayot, Frangois Latulippe, Franyois Badeau, Louis Menard, Joseph Ruetle, Moise Chardonnais, Auguste Janisse, Ra- phael Proue. I ill r1 I M .• I'! ,! \ 1 1 i i 1 >«; i ^f C 174] 10 In addilion to these, Henry Brant, son of Col. J. B. Brant, of St. Louis, a young man of nineteen years of age, and Randolph, a lively boy ot twelve, son of the Hon. Thomas H. Benton, accompanied me, for the de- velopment of mind and body which such au expedition would give. We were all well armed and mounted, with the exception of eight men, who conducted as many carts, in which were packed our stores, with the bag- gage and instruments, and which were each drawn by two mules. A few loose horses, and four oxen, which had been added lu our stock of pro- visions, completed the train. We sat out on the morning of the lOth^ which happened to be Friday — a circumstance which our men did not fail to remember and recall during the hardships and vexations of the ensuing journey. Mr. Cyprian Chouteau, to whose kindness, during our stay at his house, we were much indebted, accompanied us several miles on our way, until v/e met an Indian, whom he had engaged to conduct us on the first thirty or forty miles, where he was to consign us to the ocean of prairie, which, we were told, stretched without interruption almost to the base of the Rocky mountains. From the belt of wood which bordery the Kansas, in which we had passed several good-looking Indian farms, we suddenly emerged on the prairies, which received us at the outset with some of their striking char- acteristics ; for here and there rode an Indian, and but a few miles distant heavy clouds of smoke were rolling before the fire. In about ten miles we reached the Santa Fc road, along which we continued for a short lime, and encamped early on a small stream ; having travelled about eleven miles. During our journey, it was the customary practice to encamp an hour or two before sunset, when the carts wore disposed so as to form a sort of barricade around a circle some eighty yards in diameter. The tents were pitched, and the horses hobbled and turned loose to graze j and but a few minutes elapsed before the cooks of the messes, of which there were four, were busily engaged in preparing the evening meal. At nightfall, the horses, mules, and oxen, were driven in and picketed — / that is, secured by a halter, of which one end was tied to a small steel/ shod picket, and driven into the ground ; the halter being twenty or thirty feet long, which enabled them to obtain a little food during the night. When we had reached a part of the country where such a precaution be- came necessary, the carts being regularly arrang. ' for defending the camp, guard was mounted at eight o'clock, consisting of three men, who were relieved every two hours; the morning watch being horse guard foi' the day. At daybreak, the camp was roused, the animals turned loose to grail", and breakfast generally over between six and seven o'clock, when we resumed our march, making regularly a halt at noon for one or two hours. Such was usually the order of the day, except when accident of ^ountry forced a variation ; which, however, happened but rarely. We travelled the next day along the Santa F6 road, which we left in the af- ternoon, and encamped late in the evening on a small creek, called by ihe Indians Mishmagwi. Just as we arrived at camp, one of the horses set off at full speed on his return, and was followed by others. Several men were sent in pursuit, and returned with the fugitives about midnight, with the exception of one man, who did not make his appearance until morning. He had lost his wiy in the darkness of the niglit, and slept on the prairie. Shortly after midnight it began to rain heavily, and, as our tents were of liglit and thin cloth, they olleied but little obstruction to ram, we rainy mar^ We encar which coi miles wide timber, ani of the oxel We reac where the immediate] ford able ; with an an| point, the and level- one hundrt men led tl driven in a bank in sa tance dowi until the n( and dismar for the sur> twenty fee wheels of a The velo difficult to I in his teeth a footing as ner, six pas contents, ai but night V the darknei their accon in his alari a moment shore jum swim, and I was recovc Two of all the s'jj muddy w! tained nea in a Strang when exc€ weariness. Carson ani consequen camp. A of the gro the grouni with as ri] who were 11 [ 174] »f St. Louis, ively boy ot for the de- give. VVc t moil, wlio til the bag- les. A few 3ck of pro- >f the 10th, did not fail the ensuing our stay at iles on our it us on the e ocean of most to the ch we had [ed on the iking Char- les distant ten miles short lime, 3Ut eleven ncamp an to form a. Iter. The to graze j of which neal. At icketed — / 11 steel/ or thirty le night. tion be- ing the len, who uard for loose to k, when or two ident of T. We the af- I by (he rses set a! men (dnighl, :e until ilept on as our tiou to lU rain ; we were all well soaked, and glad when morning came. We had a rainy march on the 12th, but the weather grew fine as the day advanced. We encamped in a remarkably beautiful situation on the Kansas bluffs, which commanded a fine view of the river valley, here from three to four miles wide. The central portion was occupied by a broad belt of heavy limber, and nearer the hills the prairies were of the richest verdure. One of the oxen was killed here for fooc^ We reached the ford of the Kan is late in the afternoon of the 14th, where the river was two hundred and thirty yards wide, and commenced immediately preparations for crossing. I had expected to find the river fordable ; but it had been swollen by the late rains, and was sweeping by with an angry current, yellow and turbid as the Missouri. Up to this point, the road we had travelled was a remarkably fine one, well beaten, and level — the usual road of a prairie country. By our route, the ford was one hundred miles from the mouth of the Kansas river. Several mounted men led the way into the stream, to swim across. The animals were driven in after them, and in a few minutes all had reached the opposite bank in safety, with the exception of the oxen, which swam some dis- tance down the river, and, returning to the right bank, were not got over until the next morning. In the mean time, the carts had been unloaded and dismantled, and an India-rubber boat, which I had brought with me for the survey of the Platte river, placed in the water. The boat was twenty feet long and five broad, and on it were placed the body and wheels of a cart, with the load belonging to it, and three men with paddles. The velocity of the current, and the inconvenient freight, rendering it difficult to be managed, Basil Lajeunesse, one of our best swimmers, took in his teeth n line attached to the boat, and swam ahead in order to reach a footing as soon as possible, and assist in drawing her over. In this man- ner, six passages had been successfully madft, and as many carts with their contents, and a greater portion of the party, deposited on the left bank ; but night was drawing near, and, in our anxiety to have all over before the darkness closed in, I put upon the boat the remaining two carts, with their accompanying load. The man at the helm was timid on water, and, in his alarm, capsized the boat. Carts, barrels, boxes, and bales, were in a moment floating down the current ; but all the men who were on the shore jumped into the water, without stopping to think if they could swim, and almost every thing — even heavy articles, such as guns and lead — was recovered. Two of the men, who could not swim, came nigh being drowned, and all the sugar belonging to one of the messes wasted its sweets on the muddy waters ; but our heaviest loss was a bag of coffee, which con- tained nearly all our provision. It was a loss which none but a traveller in a strange and inhospitable country can appreciate ; and often afterward, when excessive toil and long marching had overcome us with fatigue and weariness, we remembered and mourned over our loss in the Kansas. Carson and Maxwell had been much in the water yesterday, and both, in consequence, were taken ill. The former continuing so, I remained in camp. A number of Kansas Indians visited us to-day. Going up to one of the groups who were scattered among the trees, I fbimd one sitting on the ground, among some of the men, gravely and fluently speaking French, with as much facility and as little embarrassment as any of my own party, who were nearly all of French origin. \- .:.; I ' I [ 174] 12 On all sides was heard the strange language of his own people, wild, and harmonizing well with their appearance. I listened to him for some time with feelings of strange curiosity and interest. He was now appa- rently thirty-five years of age ; and, on inquiry, I learned that he had been at St. Louis when a boy, and there had learned the French language. From one of the Indian women I obtained a fine cow and calf in exchange for a yoke of oxen. Several of them brought us vegetables, pumpkins, onions, beans, and lettuce. One of them brought butter, and from a half- breed near the river I had the good fortune to obtain some twenty or thirty pounds of coffee. The dense timber in which we had encamped interfered with astronomical observations, and our wet and damaged stores required exposure to the sun. Accordingly, the tents were struck early the next morning, and, leaving camp at six o'clock, we moved about seven miles up the river, to a handsome, open prairie, some twenty feet above the water, where the fine grass afforded a luxurious repast to oui horses. During the day we occupied ourselves in making astronomical observa- tions, in order to lay down the country to this place ; it being our custom to keep up our map regularly in the field, which we found attended with many advantages. The men were kept busy in drying the provisions, painting the cart covers, and otherwise completing our equipage, until the afternoon, when powder was distributed to them, and they spent some hours in firing at a mark. We were now fairly in the Indian country, and it began to be time to prepare for the chances of the wilderness. Friday, June 17. — The weather yesterday had not permitted us to make the observations I was desirous to obtain here, and I therefore did not move to-day. The people continued their target firing. In the steep bank of the river here, were nests of innumerable swallows, into one of which a large prairie snake had gof about half his body, and was occupied in eating the young birds. The old ones were flying about in great distress, darting at him, and vainly endeavoring to drive him off. A shot wound- ed him, and, being killed, he was cut open, and eighteen young swallows were found in his body. A sudden storm, that burst upon us in the after noon, cleared away in a brilliant sunset, followed by a clear night, which enabled us to determine our position in longitude 95° 38' 05", and in lati- tude 39° 06' 40". A party of emigrants to the Columbia river, under the charge of Dr. White, an agent of the Government in Oregon Territory, were about three weeks in advance of us. They consisted of men, women, and children. There were sixty-four men, and sixteen or seventeen families. They had a considerable number of cattle, and were transporting their household furniture in large heavy wagons. I understood that there had been much sickness among them, and that they had lost several children. One of the party, who had lost his child, and whose wife was very ill, had left them about one hundred miles hence ^n the prairies; and as a hunter, who had accompanied them, visited our camp this evening, we availed ourselves of his return to the States to write to our friends. The morning of the 18th was very unpleasant. A fine rain was falling, with cold wind from the north, and mists made the river hills look dark and gloomy. We left our camp at seven, journeying along the foot of the hills which border the Kansas valley, generally about three miles wide, and extremely rich. We halted for dinner, after a march of about thir- teen mile sas, whic After cro the appea was a larj the margi fondness spring. and weed up the V( crossing, thermome clear for a 07", and thermome We bre? laent early ting the v'w generally i Urge bouk of them fo many beai was a char the ravines common w our tents at but having considerabli the sea — an influence u| the thermo position wa The mort sky ; and a rather more of siliceous and thickly situations gi protected fn slopes, they taining its cl which has a is occup-'ed march of r.i the uplands large spring about one h through a over the hill of the camp 75°. A ple£ gale, with ii 13 [ •'■4] Bople, wild, tn for some now appa- he had been h language, in exchange , pumpkins, from a half- B twenty or d encamped nd damaged were struck moved about tweruy feet epast to ouv ical observa- r out custom ttended with a provisions, age, until the spent some L country, and ;ss. 3d us to make fore did not le steep bank )ne of which occupied in reat distress, hot wound- g swallows in the after night, which and in lati- large of Dr. J about three nd children. They had household been much One of the d left them r, who had ourselves ot was falling, look dark foot of the Imiles wide, about thir- teen miles, on the banks of one of the many little tributaries to the Kan- sas, which look like trenches in the prairie, and are usually well timbered. After crossing this stream, I rode off some miles to the left, attracted bv the appearance of a clflster of huts near th^ mouth of the Vermillion. It was a large but deserted Kansas village, scattered in an open wood, along the margin of the stream, on a spot chosen witli the customary Indian fondness for beauty of scenery. The Pawnees had attacked it in the early spring. Some of the housgs were burnt, and others blackened '.villi smoke, and weeds were already getting possession of the cleared places. Riding up the Vermillion river, I reached the ford in time to meet the carts, and, crossing, encamped on its western side. The weather continued cool, the thermometer being this evening as low as 49°; but the night was sufficiently clear for astronomical observations, which placed us in longitude 96° 04' 07", and latitude 39° 15' 19". At sunset, the barometer was at 28.845, thermometer 64°. • We breakfasted the next morning at half past five, and left our encamp- laent early. The morning was cool, the thermometer being at 45°. Quit- ting the river bottom, the road ran along the uplands, over a rolling country, generally in view of the Kansas, from eight to twelve miles distant. Many large boulders, of a very compact sandstone, of various shades of red, some of them four or five tons in weight, were scattered along the hills ; and many beautiful plants in flower, among which the amorp/ia canescens was a characteristic, enlivened the green of the prairie. Ai the heads of the ravines I remarked, occasionally, thickets ofsalix longifoUa, the most common willow of the country. We travelled nineteen miles, and pitched our tents at evening on the head waters of a small creek, now nearly dry, but having in its bed several fine springs. The barometer indicated a considerable rise in the country — here about fourteen hundred feet above the sea — and the increased elevation appeared already to have some slight influence upon the vegetation. The night was cold, with a heavy dew; the thermometer at 10 p. m. standing at 46°, barometer 28.48.3. Our position was in longitude 96° 14' 49", anci latitude 39° 30' 40". The morning of the 20th was fine, with a southerly breeze and a bright sky ; and at 7 o'clock we were o" the march. The country to-day was rather more broken, rising still, and covered every where with fragments of siliceous limestone, particularly on the sr.mmits, where they were small, and thickly strewed as pebbles on the shore of the sea. In these exposed situation.s grew but few plants ; though, whenever the soil was good and protected from the winds, in the creek bottoms and ravines, and on the slopes, they flourished abundantly; among them the amorphu, %\\\\ re- taining its characteristic place. We crossed, at 10 a. m., the Big Vermillion, which has a rich bottom of about one mile in breadth, one-third of which is occup-ed by timber. Making our usual halt at noon, after a day's march of twenty four miles, wc reached the Big Blue, and encamped on the uplands of the western side, near a small creek, where was a fine large spring of very cold water. This is a clear and handsome stream, about one hundred and twenty feet wide, running, with a rapid current, through a well-timbered valley. To-day antelope were seen running over the hills, and at evening Carson brought us a fine deer. Longitude of the camp 96° 32' 35", latitude 39° 45' 08". Thermometer at sunset 75°. A pleasant southerly breeze and fine morning had given place to a gale, witli indications of bad weather; when, after a march of ten miles C 174 ] 14 we halted to noon on a small creek, where the water stood in deep pools. In the bank of the creek limestone made its appearance in a stratum about one foot thick. In the afternoon, the people seemed to suffer for want of water. The road led along a high dry ridge; dark lities of timber indicated the heads of streams in the plains below ; but there was no water near, and the day was very oppressive, with a hot wind, and the thermometer at 90°. Along our route the amorpha has been in very abundant but va- riable bloom — in some places bending beneath ;he weight of purple clus- ters; in others without a flower. It seems to love best the sunny slopes, with a dark soil and southern exposure. Every where the rose is met with, and reminds us of cultivated gardens and civilization. It is scat- tered over the prairies in small bouquets, and, when glittering in the dews and waving in the pleasant breeze of the early morning, is the most beau- tiful of the prairie flowers. The artemisia, absinthe, or prairie sage, as it is variously called, is increasing in size, and flitters like silver, as the southern breeze turns up its leaves to the sun. All these plants have their insect inhabitants, variously colored; taking generally the hue of the flower on which they live. The artemisia has its small fly accompany- ing it through every change of elevation and latitude; and wherever I have seen the asclepias tuberosay I have always remarked, too, on the flower a large butterfly, so nearly resembling it in color as to be distin- guishable at a little distance only by the motion of its wings. Travelling on the fresh traces of the Oregon emigrants relieves a little the loneliness of the road ; and to-night, after a march of twenty-two miles, we halted on a small creek, which had been one of their encampments. As we ad- vance westward, the soil appears to be getting more sandy, and the sur- face rock, an erratic deposite of sand and gravel, rests here on a bed of coarse yellow and gray and very friable sandstone. Evening closed over with rain and its usual attendant, hordes of musquitoes, with which we were annoyed for the first time. ' June. 22. — We enjoyf.d at breakfast this morning a luxury, very unusual in this country, in a cup of excellent coffee, with cream from our cow. Being milked at night, cream was thus had in the morning. Our mid-day halt was at Wyeth's creek, in tb'' bed of which were numerous boulders of dark ferruginous sandstone, mmgled with others of the red sandstone, already mentioned. Here a pack of cards, lying loose on the grass, mark- ed an encampment of our Oregon emigra'nts ; and it was at the close of the day when we made our bivouac in the midst of some well-timbered ravines near the Little Blue, twenty-four miles from our camp of the pre- ceding night. Crossing the next morning a number of handsome creeks, with clear water and sandy beds, we reached, at 10 a. m., a very beautiful wooded stream, about thirty-five feet wide, called Sandy creek, and some- times, as the Ottoes frequently winter there, the Ottoe fork. The country has become very sandy, and the plants less varied and abundant, with the exception of the amorpha, which rivals the grass in quantity, though not so forward as it has been found to the eastward. At the Big Trees, where we had intended to noon, no water was to be found. The bed of the littlb creek was perfectly dry, and, on the adjacent sandy bottom, cac/z, for the first time, made their appearance. We made here a short delay in' search of water; and, after a hard day's march of twenty-eight miles, encamped, at 5 o'clock, on the Little Blue, where our arrival made a scene of the Arabian desert. As fast as they arrived, 15 [ 174 ] p pools. 0, about want of idicated er near, nometer but va- ple clus- yr slopes, Q is met is scat- he dews >st beau- sage, as jr, as the mts have ue of the ;ompany- herever I 10, on the be distin- rravelUng loneliness we halted A.S we ad- id the sur- n a bed of osed over which we y unusual our cow. mid-day boulders sandstone, ass, mark- le close of -timbered f the pre- me creeks, beautiful and some- le country t, with the hough not was to be .. adjacent [ We made , march of fie, where 2y arrived, man and horses rushed into the stream, where they bathed and drank to- gether in common enjoyment. We were now in the range of the Paw- nees, who were accustomed to infest this part of the coimtry, steahng horses from companies on their way to the mountains, and, when in suffi- cient force, openly attacking and plundering them, and subjecting them to various kinds of insult. For the first time, therefore, guard was mount- ed to-night. * Our route the next morning lay up the valley, which, bor- dered by hills with graceful slopes, looked uncommonly green and beau- tiful. The stream was about fifty feet wide, and three or four deep, fringed by cotton wood and willow, with frequent groves of oak tenanted by flocks of turkeys. Game here, too, made its appearance in greater plenty. Elk were frequently seen on the hills, and now and then an an- telope bounded across our path, or a deer broke from the groves. The road in the afternoon was over the upper prairies, several miles from the river, and we encamped at sunset on one of its small tributaries, where an abundance of prele {eyuisetum) afforded fine forage to our tired ani- mals. We had travelled thirty-one miles. A heavy bank of black clouds in the west came on us in a storm between nine and ten, preceded by a violent wind. The rain fell in such torrents that it was difficult to breathe facing the wind, the thunder rolled incessantly, and the whole sky was tremulous with lightning; now and then illuminated by a blinding flash, succeeded by pitchy darkness. Carson had the watch from ten to mid- night,, and to him had been assigned our yonng compagnons de vorjage, Messrs. Brant and R. Benton. This was their first night on guard, and such an introduction did not augur very auspiciously of the pleasures of the expedition. Many things conspired to render their situation uncom- fortable ; stories of desperate and bloody Indian fights were rife in the camp ; our position was badly cnosen, surrounded on all sides by timbered hollows, and occupying an area of several hundred feet, so that necessa- rily the guards were far apart; and now and then I could hear Randolph, as if relieved by the sound of a voice in the darkness, calling out to the sergeant of the guard, to direct his attention to some imaginary alarm ; but they stood it out, afnd took their turn regularly afterward. The next morning we had a specimen of the false alarms to which all parties in these wild regions are subject. Proceeding up the valley, ob- jects were seen on the opposite hills, which disappeared before a glass could be brought to bear upon them. A man, who was a short distance in the rear, came spurring up in great haste, shouting Indians! Indians! He had been near enough to see and count them, according to his report, and had made out twenty -seven. I immediately halted ; arms were ex- amined and put in order ; the usual preparations made ; and Kit Carson, springing upon one of the hunting horses, crossed the river, and galloped off into the opposite prairies, to obtain some certain intelligence of their movements. Mounted on a fine horse, without a saddle, and scouring bareheaded over the prairies. Kit was one of the finest pictures of a horseman I have ever seen. A short time enabled him to discover that the Indian war party of twenty-seven consisted of six elk, who had been gazing curiously at our caravan as it passed by, and were now scampering off at full speed. This was our first alarm, and its excitement broke agreeably on the mo- I notony of the day. At our noon halt, the men were exercised at a target; and in the evening we pitched our tents at a Pawnee encampment of last I U:: I I Hi I 5 i 1 X I inid, packing on his back what each man could carry, had conunenecd, lue day before we encountered them, their journey on foot to St. Louis. We laughed then at their forlorn and vagabond appearance, and, in our turn, a monlh, or two afterwards, furnished the same occasion for merri- i i i 5 1 i T m C 174] 18 ment to others. Even their stock of tohacco, that sine qua von of a voy- ageur, without which tlie night fire is gloomy, was entirely exhausted. However, we shorleuccl their homeward journey hy a small supply from our own provision. They •^:^vc us the welcome intelligence that the buf- falo were abundant some two days' march in advance, and made us a present of some choice pieces, which were a very acceptable change from our salt pork. In the infercliangc of news, and the renewal of old ac- quaintancrships, we found wherewithal to fill a busy hour ; then we mounted our horses, and they shouldered their packs, and we shook hands and parted. Among them, 1 had found an old companion on the northern prairie, a hardened and hardly served veteran of the mountains, who had been as much hacked and scarred as an old viovstucheoi Napoleon's "old guard." He tlourished in the sobri(]uet of La Tulipe, and his real name I never knew. Finding that he was going to the States only because his company was bound in that direction, and that he was rather more willing to return with me, 1 took him again into my service. We trav- elled this day but seventeen miles. At our evening cam}), about sunset, three figures were discovered ap-* preaching, which our glasses made out to be Indians, They proved to be Clieycnnes — two men, and a boy of thirteen. About a month since, ihey had left their people on the south fork of the river, some three hun- dred miles to the westward, and a party of only four in number had been to the Pawnee villages on a horse-stealing excursion, from which they were returning unsuccessful. They wore miserably mounted on wild horses from the Arkansas pltiins, and had no other weapons than bows and long spears; and had they been discovered by ihe Pawnees, could not, by any possibility, have escaped. They were mortified by their ill success, and said the Pawnees were cowards, who shut up their horses in their lodges at night. 1 invited them to supper with me, and Randolph and the young Cheyenne, who had been eyeing each other suspiciously and curiously, soon became intimate friends. After supper, we sat down on the grass, and I placed a sheet of paper between us, on which they traced rudely, but with a certain degree of relative truth, the watercourses of the country which lay between us and their villages, and of which I desired to have some information. Their companions, they told us, had taken a nearer route over the hills; but they had mounted one of the sum- mits to spy out the country, whence they had caught a glimpse of our party, and, confident of good treatment at the hands of the whites, hastened to join company. Latitude of the camp 40° 39' 51". We made the next morning sixteen miles. I remarked that the ground was covered in many places with an efiloi escence of salt, and the plants were not numerous. In the bottoms was frequently seen tradescantia, and on the dry lenches were cardtws, cactus, and amorpha. A high wind during the morning had increased to a violent gale from the northwest, which made our afternoon ride cold and unpleasant. We had the wel- come sight of two buffaloes on one of the large islands, and encamped at a clump of timber about seven miles from our noon halt,after a day's march of twenty-two miles. The air was keen the next morning at sunrise, the thermometer stand- ing at 44°, and it was sufficiently cold to make overcoats very comfortable. A few miles brought us into the midst of the buffalo, swarming in im- mense numbers over the plains, where they had left scarcely a blade of 19 C 17-1 ] grass standing. Mr. Prcuss, who was sketching at a little distance in the rear, had at first noted tlicin as large groves of timber. In the sight of such a mass of life, the traveller feels a strange emotion of grandeur. We had heard fnnii a distance a dull and confused nuirinuring, and, ■when W(! camo in view of their dark masses, there was not one among us who did not feel his heart beat tjuicker. It was the early part of the day, when the herds arc feeding; and every where they were in motion. Here and there a huge old bull was rolling in the grass, and clouds of dust rose in the air from vaiious parts of tiie bands, each the scene of some obstinate fight. Indians ami buffalo make the poetry and life of the prairie, and our camp was full of their exhilaration. In place of the quiet monotoi.y of the march, relieved only by the cracking of the whip, and an " avance done ! enfant ck garcc .'" shouts and songs resounded from every part of the line, and our evening camp was always the com- mencement of a feast, which terminated only with our departure on the following morning. Ai uiy time of the night might bo seen pieces of the most dtlicale and choicest meat, roasting en appolas, on sticks around the fire, and the guard were never without company. With pleasant weather and no enemy to fear, an abundance of the most excellent meat, and no scarcity of bread or tobacco, they were enjoying the oasis of a voyageur's life. Three cows were killed to-day. Kit Carson had shot one, and was continuing the chase in the midst of another herd, when his liorse fell headlong, but sprang up and joined the flying band. Tiiough considerably hurt, he had the good fortune to break no bones ; and Maxwell, who was mounted on a fleet hunter, captured the runaway after a hard chase. He was on the point of shooting him, to avoid the loss of his bridle, (a liand- soraely mounted Spanish one,) wlien he found that his horse was able to come up with him. Animals are frequently lost in this way ; and it is necessary to keep close watch over them, in the vicinity of the bullalo, in the midst of which they scour off to the plains, and are rarely retaken. One of our mules took a sudden freak into liis head, and joined a neigh- boring band to-day. As we were not in a condition to lose horses, I sent several men in pursuit, and remained in camp, in the hope of recovering him ; but lost tlic afternoon to no purpose, as we did not see him again. Astronomical observations placed us in longitude lOO'' 05' 47", latitude 40° 19' 55". July 1. — Along our road to-day the prairie bottom was more elevated and dry, and the hills which border the right side of the river higher, and more broken and picturesque in the outline. The coimtry, too, was bet- ter timbered. As we were riding quietly along the bank, a grand her^' of buffalo, some seven or eight hundred in number, came crowding Uj. .»(>• the river, where they had been to drink, and commenced crosiing u j plain slowly, eating as they went. The wind was favorable ; the cc \.jss of the morning invited to exercise ; the ground was appi rently good, and the distance across the prairie (two or three miles) gave us a fine opportu- nity to charge them before they could get among the river hills. It was too fine a prospect for a chase to be lost ; and, halting for a lew moments, the hunters were brought up and saddled, and Kit Carson, Maxwell, and I, started together. They were now somewhat less than fialf a mile dis- tant, and we rode easily along until within about three hundred yards, when a sudden agitation, a wavering in the band, and a galloping to and fro of some which were scattered along the skirts, gave us the intimation ; '4 I t I [ 174 ] 20 that we \V(!rn discovered. We started together at a hand gallop, riding stearlily abreast of each other, and here tlic interest of the chase becanno so engrossingly intense, ibiit we were seiiffible to nothing else. Wo were now closing upon tlieiii rapidly, and the front of the mass was already in rapid motion for the hills, and in a (cw seconds the movement had commnnicntod itself to the whol»^ herd. A crowd of bulls, as usual, ' 'i II • ( i, ' 'M [ 174] 22 wiill :\ siipp.T ofroastO'J ribs niul hotidi'n.f, llio c/ir/ il\vtivrc of a prairlo cook. iM().Si[uit()ns throiij^od ahdiU us this evening; hut, by 10 o'clock, when lilt: thtirmoincttir had fall(!U to47°, thoy had ull disappeared. .////// .}. — As this was to he a point iti our honicwnrd journey, I inado a cache (a t(Min used in ull this country for what is hidden in the ground) of a barrel of porlc. It was impossible to conceal such a proceeding from tho sharp oyes of our Cheyenne companions, and I therefore told thcin to go at)d see wliiit it was iboy were buryini^. Thoy would oth(!rwiso have not faiird to return and destroy our cache, in expectation of some rich booty ; but i)ork they (Jislike, and never cat. Wo left our cump at f), con- tinuiu'^' up tlu! South fork, the prairie bottom alfording us a fair road ; but in th(! long grass we rou-ed myriads of mosquitoes luid flies, from which our horses suffered severely. The day was smolcy, with a pleasant breczo from tho south, and the plains on liie opposite side were covered with buf- falo. Having travelled twenty live miles, we encamped at (> in the even- it)g; and the men were sent across the river for wood, as there is nono here on the left bank. Our fires were partially made of the hoifi de vac/ie, the dry excremmt of the budalo, which, like that of the camel in the Ara- bian deserts, furnishes to the traveller a very good .substitute for wood, burning like turf. Wolves in great numbers surrounded us during the night, crossing and rccrossing from the opposite herds to our camp, and howling and trotting about in the river until morning. Jitli/ 4. — The morning was very smoky, the sun shining dimly and red, as in a thick fog. The camp was roused with a salute at daybreak, and from our scanty store a portion of what our Indian friends called the " red fire water" served out to the tnon. While we were at breakfast, a buffalo calf broke through the camp, followed by a couple of wolves. In its fright, it had probably mistaken us for a band of buffalo. The wolves were obliged to make a circuit around the camp, so that the calf got a lit- tle tlio start, an(4 strained every nerve to reach a large herd at the foot of the hills, about two miles distant; but first one, and then another, and another wolf joined in the chase, until liis pursuers amounted to twenty or thirty, and they ran him down before he could reach his friends. There were a few bulls near the place, and one of them attacked the wolv(;s, and tried to rescue him ; but was driven off immediately, and the little animal fell an easy prey, half devoured before he was dead. We watched the chase with the interest always felt for the weak ; and had there been a saddled horse at hand, he would have fared better. Leaving camp, our road soon approached the hills, in which strata of a marl like that of the Chimney rock, hereafter described, make their appearance. It is probably of this rock that the hills on the right bank of the Platte, a little below the junction, are composed, and which are woiked by tho winds and rains into siiarp peaks and cones, giving them, in contrast to the sur- rounding level region, something of a picturesque appearance. We crossed this morning numerous beds of the small creeks which, in the time of rains and melting snow, pour down from the ridge, bringing down with them always great quantities of saiid and gravel, which have gradu- ally raised their beds four to ten feet above the level of the prairie, which they cross, making each one of them a miniature Po. Raised in this way above the surrounding prairie, without any bank, the long yellow and winding line of their beds resembles a causeway from the lulls to the river. Many spots on the prairie are yellow with sunflower, (heliant/ius.) 23 [ 1*1 ] An we were riding slowly aloncf this iifKirnoon, clouds of dust iu the ruviii'>s, among ilic liillN to tlio right, sudJtiiily attracted our attutition, and in a f'<;w Miiiiutos colunni afior cohunn uf IxillUlo curno galloping down, niakiiiu; dirocily to the ri/or. Uy the lime the loading herds had reached tju! wal«!r, the |)iairio was darkened wiih the dense masses. Immediately helure ns, when the hands first canie down into the valjty, stretched ati unbrok< n lino, the head ol' which was lost among the river hills on tho op|>i)siie side ; :ind htill ihey poured down from the ridge on our right. Froui lull to hill, the [xairie hoitom was ceriaitdy not less than two miles wide ; and, allowing the animals to he ton feet apart, and only ten in a line, there were already eleven thousand in view. Seme idea may thus he formed of their number when they had occupied ilie whole plain. In a short tiim; they .surrounded us on every side ; exlending for several miles in tho rear, and forward as far as the eye could reach ; leaving around ns, as we advanced, an open space of only two or three hundred yards, 'i'hif? movement of the bufl'alo mdicated to us the presence of Indians on the North fork. I halted earlier than usual, about forty miles from thejmiclion, and all hands were soon busily engaged in preparing a feast to celebrate the day. The kindness of our friends at St. J..onis had provided us with a large supply of excellent preserves and rich Iruit cake; and when these were added to a maccaroni soup, and variously prepared dishes of the choicest butlalo meat, crowned with a cup of coffee, and enjoyed with prairie ap- petite, we felt, as we sat in barbaric luxury around our smoking supper on the grass, a greater sensation of enjoyment than the Roman epicure at his perfumed feast. But most of all it seemed to please our Indian friends, who, in the unrestrained enjoyment of the moment, demanded to know if our "medicine days came often." No restraint was exercised at the hos- pitable board, and, to the great delight of liis elders, our young Indian, lad made hims-elf extremely drunk. Our encampment was within a few miles of the place where the road crosses to the North fork, and various reasons led me to divide my party at this point. The North fork was the principal object of my survey ; but I was desirous to ascend the South branch, with a view of obtaining some astronomical positions, and determining the mouths of its tributaries as far as St. Vraiu's fort, estimated to be some two hundred miles further up the river, and near to Long's peak. There I hoped to obtain some mules, which I found would be necessary to relieve my horses. In a military point of view, I was desirous to form some opinion of the country relative to the establishment of posts on a line connecting the settlements with the South pass of the Rocky mountains, by way of the Arkansas and the South and Laramie forks of the Platte. Crossing the country northwest- wardly from St. Vrain's fort, to the American company's fort at the mouth of Larajnie, would give me some acquaintance with the afHuents which head in the mountains between the two ; I therefore determined to set out the next morning, accompanied by JVlr. Preuss and four men, Maxwell, Bernier, Ayot, and Basil Lajeunesse. Our Cheyennes, whose villi ge lay up this river, also decided to accompany us. The party I left in charge of Clem6nt Lambert, with orders to cross to the North fork; and at some convenient place, near to the Coulee des Fri'nes, make a cache of every thing not absolutely necessary to the further progress of our expedition. From this point, using the most guarded precaution in his march through •i; i ■ i ^ • 1 . ij i [ I7i ] 24 PI ' the country, he was to proceed to the American company's fort at the mouth of Laramie's fork, and await my arrival, which would be prior to the loth, as on thj.t and the following night would occur some occultations which I was desirous to obtain at that place. July 5. — Before breakfast, all was ready. We had one led horse in ad- dition to those we rode, and a pack mule, destined to carry our instruments, provisions, and baggage ; the last two articles not being of very great weight. The instruinonts consisted of a sextant, artificial horizon, &c., a barometer, spy glass, and compass. Ihe chronometer I of course kepi on my person. 1 had ordered the cook to put up for us some flour, coffee, and sugar, and our rifles were to furnish the rest. One blanket, in addition to his saddle and saddle blanket, furnished tha materials for each man's bed, and every one was provided with a change of linen. All were armed with rifles or double barrelled gnns; and, in addition to these, Maxwell and myself were furnished with excellent pistols. Thus accoutred, we took a parting breakfast with our friends, and set forth. Our journey the first day afforded nothing of any interest. We shot a buffalo toward sunset, and, having obtained some me:'.t for our evening meal, encamped where a little timber afforded us the means of making a fire. Having dispose ! our meat on roasting sticks, we proceeded to un- pack our bales in search of coffee and sugar, and flour for bread. With the exception of a little parched colfee, unground, we found nothing. Our cook had neglected to put it up, or it had been somehow forgotten. Tired and hungry, with tough bull meat without salt, (for we had not been able to kill a cow,) and a little bitter coffee, we sat down in silence to our mis- erable fare, a very disconsolate party; for yesterday's feast was yet fresh in our memories, and this was our first brush with misfortune. Each man took his blanket, and laid himself down silently ; for the worst part of these mishaps is, that they make people ill-humored. To-day we had travelled about thirty-six miles. July 6. — Finding that our present excursion would be attended with considerable hardship, and unwilling to expose more persons than neces- sary, I determined to send Mr. Preuss back to the party. His horse, too, appeared in no condition to support the journey ; and accordingly, after breakfast, betook the road across the hills, attended by one of my most trusty men, Bernier. The ridge between the rivers is here about fifteen miles broad, and I expected he would probably strike the fork near their evening ciimp. At all events, he would not fail to find their trail, and re- join them the next day. We continued our journey, seven in number, including the three Chey- ennes. Our general course was southwest, up the valley of the river, which was sandy, bordered on the northern side of the valley by a low ridge ; and on the south, after seven or eight miles, the river hills became higher. Six miles from our re.siing place we crossed the bed of a consid- erable stream, now entirely dry — a bed of sand. In a grove of willows, near the mouth, were the remains of a considerable fort, constructed of trunks of large trees. It was apparently very old, and had probably been the scene of some hostile encounter among the roving tribes. Its soli- tude formed an impressive contrast to the picture which our imaginations involuntarily drew of the busy scene which had been enacted here. The timber appeared to have been much more extensive formerly than now. There were but few trees, a kind of long-leaved willow, standing; and 1 25 [ 174 ] numerous trunks of large trees were scattered about on the ground. In many siriiiiur places I liad occasion to remark an apparent progressive de- cay in the timber. Ten miles farther we reached the mouth of Lodge Pole creek, a cleat and handsome stream, running through a broad valley. In its course through the bottom it has a uniform breadth of twenty-two feet, and six inches in depth. A few willows on the banks strike pleas- antly on the eye, by their greenness, in the midst of the hot and barren sands. The rrmorphu was frequent among the ravines, but the sunflower (heli- anfkns) was the characteristic ; and flowers of deep warm colors seem most to love the sandy soil. The impression of the country travelled over to- day was one of dry and barren sands. We turned In towards the river at noon, and gave our horses two hours for food and rest. I had no other thermometer than the one attached to the barometer, which stood at 89°, the height of the column in the barometer being 26.235 at meridian. The sky was clear, with a high wind from the south. At 2, we continued our journey ; tiie wuid had moderated, and it became almost unendurably hot, and our animals suflfered severely. In the course of the afternoon, the wind rose suddenly, and blew hard from the southwest, with thunder and light- ning, and squalls of rain ; these were blown against us with violence by the wind ; and, halting, we turned our backs to the storm until it blew over. Antelope were tolerably frequent, with a large gray hare; but the former were shy, and the latter hardly worth the delay of stopping to shoot them ; so, as the evening drew near, we again had recourse to an old bull, and encamped at sunset on an island in the Platte. We ate our meat with a good relish this evening, for we were all in fine health, and had ridden nearly all of a long summer's day, with a burning sun reflected from the sands. My companions slept rolled up in their blankets, and the Indians lay in the grass near the fire ; but my sleeping place generally had an air of more pretension. Our rifles were tied to- gether near the muzzle, the butts resting on the ground, and a knife laid on the rope, to cut away in case of an alarm. Over this, which made a kind of frame, was thrown a large India rubber cloth, which we used to cover our packs. Vhis made a tent sufficiently large to receive about half of my bed, and was a place of shelter for my instruments ; and as I was carei^ul always to put this part against the wind, I could lie here with a sensation of satisfied enjoyment, and hear the wind blow, and the rain patter close to my head, and know that I should be at least half dry. Cer- tainly, I never slept more soundly. The barometer at sunset was 26.010, thermometer 81°, and cloudy; but a gale from the west sprang up with the setting sun, and in a few minutes swept away every cloud from the sky. The evening was very fine, and I remained up to take some astro- nomical observations, which made our position in latitude 40° 51' 17", and longitude 103° 07' 00". July 7. — At our camp this morning, at 6 o'clock, the barometer was at 26.183, thermometer 69°, and clear, with a light wind from the southwest. The past night had been squally, with high winds, and occasionally a few drops of rain. Our cooking did not occupy much time, and we left camp early. Nothing of interest occurred during the morning. The same dreary barrenness, except that a hard marly clay had replaced the sandy soil. Ruflalo absolutely covered the plain on both sides the river, and whenever we ascended the hills, scattered herds gave life to the view : : I !:iS \ § : 1 L 17-1 ] 26 in every direction. A small drove of wild horses made their appearance on the low rivor bottoms, a mile or two to the left, and I sent off one of the In- dians (who seemed very eager to catch one) on my led horse, a spirited and fleet animil. The savage manoeuvred a little to get the wind of the horses, in which he succeeded — approaching v/ithin a hundred yards without be- ing discovered. The chase for a few minutes was animated and interest- ing. My hunter easily overtook and passed the hindmost of the wild drove, which the Indian did not attempt to lasso; all his efforts being directed to the capture o{ tlie luuder. But ihe strength of the horse, weakened by the insufficient nourishment of grass, failed in a race, and all the drove escaped. We halftd at noon on the bank of the river, the barometer at that lime be- ing 26.192, and the thermometer 103°, with a light air from the south, and clear weather. In the course of the afternoon, dust rising among the hills at a particular place, attracted our attention; and, riding up, we found a band of eighteen or twenty buffalo bulls engaged in a desperate fight. Though butting and goring were bestowed liberally, and without distinction, yet their efforts were evidently directed against one — a huge gaunt old bu!l, very lean, while his adversaries were all fat and in good order. He appeared very weak, and had already received some wounds, and, while we were look- ing on, was several times knocked down and badly hurt, and a very few moments would have (nit an end to him. Of course, we took the side of the weaker party, and attacked the herd; but they were so blind with rage, that they fought on, utterly regardless of our presence, although on foot and on horseback we were firing in open view within twenty yards of them. But this did not last long. In a very few seconds, we created a commotion among them. One or two, which were knocked over by the balls, jumped up and ran off into the hills; and they began to retreat slowly along a broad ravine to the river, fighting furiously as they went. By the time they had reached the bottom, we had pretty well dispersed them, and the old bull hobbled oft', to lie down somewhere. One of his en- emies remained on the ground where we had first fired upon them, and we stopped there for a short time to cut from him some meat for our supper. We had neglected to secure our horses, thinking it an unnecessary precau- tion in their fatigued condition ; but our mule took it into his head to start, and away he went, followed at full speed by the pack horse, with all the baggage and instruments on his back. They were recovered and brought back, after a chase of a mile. Fortunately, every thing was well secured, so that nothing, not even the barometer, was in the least injured. The sun was getting low, and some narrow lines of timber four or five miles distant promised us a plejisant camp, where, with plenty of wood for fire, and conifortablo shelter, and rich grass for our animals, we should find clear cool springs, instead of the warm water of the Platte. On our arrival, we found the bed of a stream fifty to one hundred feet wide, sunk some thirty feet below the level of the prairie, with perpendicular banks, bordered by a frinae of green cottonwood,but not a drop of water. There were several small forks to the stream, all in the same condition. With the exception of the Platte bottom, the country seemed to be of a clay form- ation, dry, and perfectly devoid of any moisture, and baked hard by the sun. Turning off towards the river, we reached the bank in about a mile, and were delighted to find an old tree, with tliick foliage and spreading branches, where we encamped. At sunset, the barometer was at 25.950, 87 C 174] thermometer 81°, with a strong wind from S. 20'^ E., and the sky partially covered with heavy masses of cloud, which settled a little towards the horizon by 10 o'clock, leaving it sufficiently clear for astronomical ob- servations, which placed us in latitude 40^ J,')' 26', and longitude 103° 30' 37". July S. — Tiie morning was very pleasant. The breeze was fresh from S. 50° E. with few clouds; the barometer at 6 o'clock standing at 25.970, and the thermometer at 70''. Since leaving the forks, our route had passed over a country alternately clay and sand, each presenting the same naked waste. On leaving camp this morning, we struck again a sandy region, in which the vegetation appeared somewhat more vigorous than that which we had observed for the last few days; and on the opposite side of the river were some tolerably large groves of timber. Journeying along, we came suddenly upon a place where the ground was covered with horses' tracks, which had been made since the rain, and iuilicated the immediate presence of Indians in our neighborhood. The buffalo, too, which the day before had been so numerous, were nowhere in sight — another sure indication that there were people near. Riding on, we discovered the carcass of a buffalo recently killed — perhaps the day before. We scanned the horizon carefully with the glass, but no living object was to be seen. For 'he next mile or two, the ground was dotted with buffalo carcasses, which showed that the Indians had made a surround here, and were in considerable force. We went on quickly and cautiously, keeping ihe river bottom, and carefully avoiding the hills ; but we met with no interruption, and began to grow careless again. VVe had already lost one of our horses, and here Basil's mule showed symptoms of giving out, and finally refused to advance, being what the Canadians call restL He there- fore dismounted, and drove her along before him; but this was a very slow way of travelling. We had inadvertently got about halfamilein t advance, but our Cheyennes, who were generally a mile or two in the rear, remained with him. There were some dark-looking objects among [ the hills, about two miles to the left, here low and undulating, which we had seen for a little time, and supposed to be butialo coming in to water ; but, happening to look behind, Maxwell saw the Cheyennes whipping up furiously, and another glance at the dark objects showed them at once to I be Indians coming up at speed. Had we been well mounted, and disencumbered of instruments, we J might have set iheni at defiance ; but as it was, we were fairly caught. It was too late to rejoin our friends, and we endeavored to gain a clump of timber about half a mile ahead ; but the instruments and the tired state of our horses did not allow us to go faster than a steady canter, and they were gaining on us fast. At firsts they did not appear to be more than fifteen or twenty in number, but group after group darted into view at the top of the hills, until all the little eminences seemed in motion, and, in a I few minutes from the time they were first discovered, two or three hun- dred, naked to the breech cloth, were sweeping across the prairie. In a few hundred yards we discovered that the timber we were endeavoring to make was on the opposite side of the river ; and before we could reach the bank, down came the Indians upon us. I am inclined to think that in a few seconds more the leading man, and perhaps some of his companions, would have rolled in the dust; for we had jerked the covers from our guns, and our fingers were on the \l t 174] 28 triggers ; men in such cases generally act from instinct, and a charge from three hundred naked savages is a circumstance not well calculated to promote a cool exercise of judgment. Just as he was about to fire, Max- well recognised the leading Indian, and shouted to him in the Indian language, " You're a fool, God damn you, don't you know me?" The sound of iiis own language! seemed to shock the savage, and, swerving his horse a iiitie, he passed us like an arrow. He wheeled, as I rode out toward him, and gave me his hand, striking his breast and exclaiming "Arapaho!" They proved to be a village of that nation, among whom Maxwell had resided as a trader a year or two previously, and recognised him accordingly. Wc were soon in the midst of the band, answering as well us wii could ii multitude of questions ; of which the very first was, of what tribe were our Indian companions who were coming in the rear? They soeinod disappointed to know that they were Cheyennes, for they had (ally anticipated a grand dance around a Pawnee scalp that night. The chief showed us his village at a grove on the river six miles ahead, and pointed out a band of buffalo on the other side of the Platte, imme- diately opposite us, which he said they were going to surround. They had seen tlie band early in the morning from their village, and had been making a large circuit, to avoid giving them the wind, when they discov- ered us. In a k\v minutes the women came galloping up, astride on their horses, and naked from their knees down, and the hips up. They followed the men, to assist in cutting up and carrying off the meat. The wind was blowing directly across the river, and the chief requested us to hall where we were for a while, in order to avoid raising the herd. We therefore unsaddled our horses, and sat down on the bank to view the scene ; and our new acquaintances rode a few himdred yards lower down, and began crossing the river. Scores of wild-looking dogs followed, looking like troops of wolves, and having, in fact, but very little of the dog in tlieir composition. Some of them remained with us, and I checked one of the men, whom I found aiming at one, which he was about to kill for a wolf. The day had become very hot. The air was clear, with a very slight breeze; and now, at 12 o'clock, while the barometer stood at 25.920, the attached thermometer was at 10S°. Our Cheyennes had learned that with the Arapaho village were about twenty lodges of their own, including their own families ; they therefore immediately com- menced making their toilette. After bathing in the river, they invested themselves in some handsome calico shirts, which I afterward learned they had stolen from my own men, and spent some time in arranging their hair and painting themselves with some vermilion 1 had given them. While they were engaged in this satisfactory manner, one of their half- wild horses, to which the crowd of prancing animals vvhich had just passed had recalled tke freedom of her existence among the wild droves on the prairie, suddenly dashed into the hills at the top of her speed. She was their pack horse, and had on her back all the worldly wealth of our poor Cheyeimes, all their accoutrements, and all the little articles which they had picked up among us, with some few presents I had given them. The loss which they seemed to regret most were their spears and shields, and some tob icco which they had received from me. However, they bore it all with the philosophy of an Indian, and laughingly con- timied their toilette. They appeared, however, a little mortified at the thought of returning lo the village in such a sorry plight. •' Our people 29 [ 174 ] will langh at US," said one of them, "returning to the village on foot, in- stead of driving back a drove of Pawnee horses." He demanded to know if I loved my sorrel hunter very much; to wjiich I replied, he was the object of my most intense affection. Far from being able to give, I was myself in want of horses ; and any suggestion of parting with the few I had valuable, was met with a peremptory refusal. In the mean time, the slaughter was about to commence on the other side. So soon as they reached it, the Indians separated into two bodies. One parly proceeded directly across the prairie, toward the hills, in an extended line, while the other went up the river; and instantly as they had given the wind to the herd, the chase commenced. The buffalo started for the hills, but were intercepted and driven back toward the river, broken and running in every diri'Ctioii. The clouds of dust soon covered the whole scene, preventing us from having any hut an occasional view. It had a very singular ap- pearance to us at a distance, especially when looking with the glass. We were too far to hear the report of the guns, or any sound ; and at every instant, through the clouds of dust which the stui made lunjinous, we could see for a moment two or three buffalo dashing along, and close be- hind them an Indian with his long spear, or other weapon, and instantly again they disappeared. The apparent silence, and the dimly seen figures flitting by with such rapidity, gave it a kind of dreamy effect, and seemed more like a picture than a scene of real life. It had been a large herd when ihe cerne commenced, probably three or four hundred in number; but, though I watched them closely, I did not see one emerge from the fatal cloud where the work of destruction was going on. After remain- ing here about an hour, we resumed our journey in the direction of the village. Gradually, as we rode on, Indian after Irjdian came dropping along, laden with meat; and by the time we had neared the lodges, the back- ward road was covered with the returnitig horsemen. It was a pleasant contrast with the desert road we had been travelling. Several had joined company with us, and one of the chiefs invited us to his lodge, 'fhe vil- lage consisted of about one hundred and twenty-five lodges, of which twenty were Cheyennes; the latter pitched a little apart from the Arapa- hoes. They were disposed in a scattering niiumer on both sides of a broad irregular street, about one hundred and fifty feet wide, and running along the river. As we rode along, I remarked near some of the lodges a kind of tripod frame, formed of three slender [toles of birch, scraped very clean, to which were affixed the shield and spear, witli some other weap- ons of a chief. All were scrupulously clean, tiic spear head was burnish- ed bright, and the shield white and stainless. It reminded me of the days of feudal chivalry; and when, as I rode by, I yielded to tiie passing impulse, and touched one of the spotless shields with the nmzzle of my gun, I almost expected a grim warrior to start from the lodge and resent my challenge. The master of the lodge spread out a lobe for me to sit upon, and the squaws set before us a large wooden dish of buflalo meat. He had lit his pipe in the menn while, and v.'hon it had been passed around, we commenced our dinner while he oontiiined to smoke. Grad- ually, five or six other chiefs came in, and took their seats in Mlence. When we had finished, our host ai^ke Division and misunderstandings had grown up among them ; they were I already somewhat disheartened by the fatigue of their long and weari- 1 some journey, and the feet of their cattle had become so much worn as \ to be scarcely able to travel. In this situation, they were not likely to I find encouragement in the hostile attitude of the Indians, and the new I and unexpected ditficulties which sprang up before them. They were ; told that the country was entirely swept of grass, and that few or no buffa- \ lo were to be found on their line of route ; and, with their weakened ani- i mals, it would be impossible for them to transport their heavy wagons \ over the mountain. Under these circumstances, they disposed of their ; wagons and cattle at the forts; selling them at the prices they had paid I in the States, and taking in exchange coffee and sugar at one dollar a pound, and miserable worn-out horses, which died before they reached -^ irith alcohol, possesses — —and when in go into a ing entirely 56. In their ily by their Indians, but isive outfits, nerous inde- various ave- ther stock in lest price of igular trader )eddling tra- las been, fix- trade. The ation of the preservation ; and perma- nent interest, an he meets, Lt hunting. , entrance, in d, and about ;h the breeze ids. In the lich will ex- eyennes and whites, and gement with Louis. The leader and e river ; and had spread g, two other irn from the imigrants to our arrival. ; they were and weari- ich worn as ot likely to nd the new They were or no buffa- lakened ani- vy wagons led of their y had paid e dollar a ley reached > X 2 e' I 1 '■ I ^ \ p I I. 41 I C 174] the mountains. Mr. Boudeau informed me that he had purchased thirty, and the lower fort eighty liead of fine cattle, some of them of the Durham breed. Mr. Fitzpatrick, whose name and high reputation are familiar to all who interest themselves in the history of this country, had reached Laramie in company with Mr, Bridger ; and the emigrants were fortunate enough to obtain his services to guide them as far as the British post of Fort Hail, about two hundred and fifty miles beyond the South Pass of the mountains. They had started for this post on the 4th of July, and, immediaiely after their departure, a war party of three hundred and fifty braves sat out upon their trail. As their principal chief or partisan had lost some relations in the recent fight, and had sworn to kill the first whites on his path, it was supposed that their intention was to attack the party, should a favorable opportunity offer ; or, if they were foiled in their prin- cipal object by the vigilance of Mr. Fitzpatrick, content themselves with stealing horses and cutting off stragglers. These had been gone but a few days previous to our arrival. The effect of the engagement with Mr. Frapp had been greatly to irri- tate the hostile spirit of the savages ; and immediately subsequent to that event, the Gros Ventre Indians had united with the Oglallahs and Chey- ennes, and taken the field in great force — so far as I could ascertain, to the amount of eight hundred lodges. Their object was to make an attack on a camp of Snake and Crow Indians, and a body of about one hundred whites, who had made a rendezvous somewhere in the Green river valley, or on the Sweet Water. After spending some time in buffalo hunting in the neighborhood of the Medicine Bow mountain, they were to cross over to the Green river waters, and return to Laramie by way of the South Pass and the Sweet Water valley. According to the calculation of the Indians, Mr. Boudeau informed me they were somewhere near the head of the Sweet Water. I subsequently learned that the party led by Mr. Fitzpat- rick were overtaken by their pursuers near Rock Independence, in the valley of the Sweet Water; but his skill and resolution saved them from surprise, and, small as his force was, they did not venture to attack him openly. Here they lost one of their party by an accident, and, continuing up the valley, they came suddenly upon the large village. From these they met with a doubtful reception. Long residence and familiar acquaint- ance had given to Mr. Fitzpatrick great personal influence among them, and a portion of them were disposed to let him pass quietly ; but by far the greater number were inclined to hostile measures ; and the chiefs spent the whole of one night, during which they kept the little party in the midst of them, in council, debating the question of attacking them the next day ; but the influence of *' the Broken Hand," as they called Mr. Fitzpatrick, (one of his hands having been shattered by the bursting of a gun,) at length prevailed, and obtained for them an unmolested passage ; but they sternly assured him that this path was no longer open, and that any party of whites which should hereafter be found upon it would meet whh certain destruction. From all that I have been able to learn, I have no doubt that the emigrants owe their lives to Mr. Fitzpatrick. "^ Thus it would appear that the country was swarming with scattered war parties ; and when I heard, during the day, the various contradictory and exaggerated rumors which were incessantly repeated to them, I was not surprised that so much alarm prevailed among my men. Carson, one of the best and most experienced mountaineers, fully supported the I \ . I ^ [ 174] 42 opinion given by Bridger of the dangerous state of the country, and openly expressed his conviction that we could not escape without some sharp encounters with the Indians. In addition to this, he made his will ; and among the circumstances which were constantly occurring to increase their alarm, this was the most unfortunate ; and I found that a number of my party had become so much intimidated, that they had requestea to be discharged at this place. I dined to-day at Fort Platte, which has been mentioned as situated at the junction of Laramie river with the Ne- braska. Here I heard a confirmation of the statements given above. The party of warriors, which had started a few days since on the trail of the emigrants, was expected back in fourteen days, to join the village with which their families and the old men had remained. The arrival of the latter was hourly expected ; and some Indians have just come in who had left them on the Laramie fork, about twenty miles above. Mr. Bissonette, one of the traders belonging to Fort Platte, urged the propriety of taking with me an interpreter and two or three old men of the vi'.iage ; in which case, he thought there would be little or no hazard in encounter- ing any of the war parties. The principal danger wns in being attacked before they should know who we were. They had a confused idea of the numbers and power of our people, and dreaded to bring upon themselves the military force of the United States. This gentleman, who spoke the language fluently, offered his services to accompany me so far as the Red Buttes. He was desirous to join the large party on its return, for purposes of trade, and it would suit his views, as well as my own, to go with us to the Buttes ; beyond which point it would be impossible to prevail on a Sioux to venture, on account of their fear of the Crows. From Fort Laramie to the Red Buttes, by the ordi- nary road, is one hundred and thirty-five miles ; and, though only on the threshold of danger, it seemed better to secure the services of an inter- preter for the partial distance, than to have none at all. So far as frequent interruption from the Indians would allow, we occu- pied ourselves in making some astronomical calculations, and bringing up the general map to this stage of our journey ; but the tent was generally occupied by a succession of our ceremonious visiters. Some came for presents, and others for information of our object in coming to the country ; now and then, one would dart up to the tent on horseback, jerk off his trappings, and stand silently at the door, holding his horse by the halter, signifying his desire to trade. Occasionally a savage would stalk in with an invitation to a feast of honor, a dog feast, and deliberately sit down and wait quietly until I was ready to accompany him. I went to one ; the women and children were sitting outside the lodge, and we took our seats on buffalo robes spread around. The dog was in a large pot over the fire, in the middle of the lodge, and immediately on our arrival was dished up in large wooden bowls, one of which was handed to each. The flesh appeared very glutinous, with something of the flavor and ap- pearance of mutton. Feeling something move behind me, I looked round, and found that I had taken my seat among a litter of fat young puppies. Had I been nice in such matters, the prejudices of civilization might have interfered with my tranquillity; but, fortucatelV; I am not of delicate nerves, and continued quietly to empty my platter. The weather was cloudy at evening, with a moderate soiitli wind, and the thermometer at 6 o'clock 85°. I was disappointed in my hope of ob- I uses, exc; ,_.J w, we occu- 43 C 174] i taining an observation of an occultation, which took place about midnight. [The moon brought with her heavy ban):s of clouds, through which she I scarcely made her appearance during the night. The morning of the 18th was cloudy and calm, the thermometer at 6 [o'clock at 64°. About 9, with a moderate wind from the west, a storm of rain came on, accompanied by sharp thunder and lightning, which lasted about an hour. During the day the expected vil.age arrived, consisting (principally of old men, women, and children. They had a considerabb number of horses, and luige troops of dogs. Their lodges were pitched near the fort, and our camp was? constantly crowded with Indians of all sizes, from morning until night; at which time some of the soldiers gen- jerally came to drive them all off to the village. My tent was the only [place which they respected. Here only came the chiefs and men of dis- jtinction, and generally one of them remained i >ive away the women [and children. The numerous strange instruments, applied to still stranger' I uses, excited awe and admiration among them, and those which I used Lin talking with the sun and stars they looked upon with especial rever- lence, as mysterious things of "great medicine." Of the three barometers which I had brought with me thus far successfully, I found that two were out of order, and spent the greater part of the 1 9th in repairing them — an operation of no small difficulty in the midst of the incessant interrup- tions to which I was subjected. We had the misfortune to break here a large thermometer, graduated to show fifths of a degree, which I used to ascertain the temperature of boiling water, and with which I had promised myself some interesting experiments in the mountains. We had but one remaining, on which the graduation extended sufficiently high ; and this was too small for exact observations. During our stay here, the men had been engaged in making numerous repairs, arranging pack saddles, and otherwise preparing for the chances of a rough road and mountain travel. All things of this nature being ready, I gathered them around me in the evening, and told them that "I had determined to proceed the next day. They were all well armed. I had engaged the services of Mr. Bissonette as interpreter, and had taken, in the circumstances, every possible means to insure our safety. In the rumors we had heard, I believed there was much exaggeration, and then they were men accustomed to this kind of life and to the country ; and that these were the dangers of every day occurrence, and to be expected in the ordinary course of their service. They had heard of the unsettled condition of the country before leaving St. Louis, and therefore could not make it a reason for breaking their en- gagements. Still, I was unwilling to take with me, on a service of some certain danger, men on whom I could not rely ; and as I had understood that there were among them some who were disposed to cowardice, and anxious to return, they had but to come forward at once, and state their desire, and they would be discharged with the amount due to them for the time they had served." To their honor be it said, there was but one among them who had the face to come forward and avail himself of the permission. I asked him some few questions, in order to expose him to the ridicule of the men, and let him go. The day after our departure, he engaged himself to one of the forts, and set off with a party for the Upper Missouri, I did not think that the situation of the country justified me in taking our young co!n])anions, Messrs. Brant and Benton, along with us. In case of misfortune, it would have been thought, at the least, an act of ill i;i i! ' ! ';( 1 hil tr if; I ;■.? ^ ni; ;f- J I C 174] 44 great imprudence ; and therefore, though reluctantly, I determined to leave them. Randolph had been the Ufe of the camp, and the ^^ petit garpon** was much regretted by the men, to whom his buoyant spirits had afforded great amusement. They all, however, agreed in the propriety of leaving him at the fort, because, as they said, he might cost the livesof someof the men in a fight with the Indians. Juli/ 21. — A portion of our baggage, with our field notes and observa- tions, and several instruniants, were left at the fort. One of the gentlemen, Mr. Galpin, took charge of a barometer, which he engaged to observe during my absence; and I intrusted to Randolph, by way of occupation, the regular winding up of two of my chronometers, which were among the instruments left. Our observations showed that the chronometer which I retained for the continuation of our voyage had preserved its rate in a most satisfactory manner. As deduced from it, the longitude o{ Fort Laramie is Ih. or 21", and from lunar distance Ih. 01' 29"; giving for the adopted longitude 104° 47' 43". Comparing the barometrical observations made during our stay here, with those of Dr. G. Engelman at St. Louis, we find for the elevation of the fort above the Gulf of Mexico 4,470 feet. The winter climate here is remarkably mild for the latitude ; but rainy weather is frequent, and the place is celebrated for winds, of which the prevailing one is west. An east wind in summer, and a south wind in winter, are said to be always accompanied with rain. We were ready to depart; the tents were struck, the mules geared up, and our horses saddled, and we walked up to the fort to take the stirrup cup with our friends in an excellent home-brewed preparation. While thus pleasantly engaged, seated in one of the little cool chambers, at the door of which a man had been stationed to prevent all intrusion from the Indians, a number of chiefs, several of them powerful fine-looking men, forced their way into the room in spite of all opposition. Handing me the following letter, they took their seats in silence : « Fort Platte, Juillet 1, 1842. " Mr. Fremont : Les ches s'6tant assembles prcsentement me disent de vous averiir de ue point vous mettre en route, avant que le parti de jeunes gens, qui est en dehors, soient de retour. De plus, ils me disent qu'ils sont ixh certains qu'ils feront feu k la premiere rencontre. lis doivent etre de retour dans sept ^ huit jours. Excusez si je vous fais cos observations, mais il me semble qu'il est mon devoir de vous avertir da danger. Meme de plus, les chefs sont les porteurs de ce billet, qui vous defendent de partir avant le retour des guerriers. " Je siiis voire obeissant serviteur, "JOSEPH BISSONETTE, « Par L. B. CHARTRAIN. " Les noms de quelques chefs. — Le Chapeau de Loutre, le Casseur de Fleches, la Nuit Noir, la Queue de Boeuf." > [Translation. ] "Fort Platte, Ji/Zy 1, 1842. "Mr. Fremont: The chiefs, having assembled in council, have just told me to warn you not to set out before the party of youiig men which 45 [ 174] rmined to leavo ^ petit gar^oii" its had aflordeJ iety of leavini,' ;s of some of the es and observa- r the gentlemen, ged to observe of occupation, were among the ometer which I ts rate in a most Fort Laramie is for the adopted ervations made . Louis, we find ,470 feet. The It rainy weather h the prevailing i in winter, are lules geared up, ike the stirrup aration. While hambers, at the rusion from the le-looiting men, anding me the lillel 1, 1842.. lent me disent que le parti de [is, ils me disent rencontre. lis ie vous fais cos 'ous avertir du billet, qui vous Ittf* lARTRAlN. le Casseur de luly 1, 1842. icil, have just iig men which is now out shall have returned. Furthermore, they tell me that they are very sure they will fire upon you as soon as they meet you. Tliey are expected back in seven or eight days. Excuse me for making these ob- servations, but it seems my duty to warn you of daiignr. Moreover, the chiefs who prohibit your setting out before the return of the warriors are the bearers of this note. •* I am your obedient servant, , "JOSEPH BISSONETTE, "By L. B. CHAUTRAIN. < *- " Names of some of the chiefs. — The Otter Hat, tiie Breaker of Arrows, >the Black Night, the Bull's Tail." it After reading this, I mentioned its purport to my companions ; and, see- ling that all were fully possessed of ils contents, one of the Indians rose iup, and, having first shaken hands with me, spoke as follows : You have come among us at a bad time. Some of our people have [been killed, and our young men, who are gone to the mountains, are [eager to avenge the blood of their relations, which has been shed by the whites. Our young men are bad, and, if they meet you, they will believe [that you are carrying goods and ammunition to their enemies, and will ^fire upon you. You have told us that this will make war. We know that lour great father has many soldiers and big guns, and we are anxious to fhave our lives. We love the whites, and are desirous of peace. Think- iing of all these things, wo have determined to keep you here until our [warriors return. We are glad to see you among us. Our father is rich, ind we expected that you would have brought presents to us — horses, and juns, and blankets. But we are glad to see you. We look upon your corning as the light which goes before the sun ; for you will tell our great father that you have seen us, and that we are naked and poor, and have lothing to eat; and he will send us all these things." He was followed )y the others, to the same efiect. The observations of the savage appeared reasonable ; but I was aware ^hat they had in view only the present object of detaining me, and were inwilling I should go further into the country. In reply, I asked them, |hrough the interpretation of Mr. Boudeau, to select two or three of their uiniber to accompany us until we should meet their people — they should ^pread their robes in my tent and eat at iny tabU;, and on our return I rould give them presents in reward of their services. They declined, lying that there were no young men left in the village, and that they rere too old to travel so many days on horseback, and preferred now to Imoke their pipes in the lodge, and let 'he warriors go on the war path. Jesides, they had no power over the ytung men, and were afraid tointer- iXQ with them. In my turn I addressed them : " You say that you love le whites; why have you killed so many already this spring.-* You say lat you love the whites, and are full of many expressions of friendship to |ls ; but you are not willing to undergo the fatigue of a few days' ride to ive our lives. We do not believe what you have said, and will not lis- 3n to you. Whatever a chief among us tells his soldiers to do, is done. ^e are the soldiers of the great chief, your father. He has told us to )me here and see this country, and all the Indians, his children. Why. i. ' ll C m] 46 I ' should we not go ? Reforo we came, wc heard that you Imd killed hij people, und ceased to bo his children ; but we came among you peaceably, holding out our hands. Now we find that the stories we huard are not lies, and that you are no longer his friends and children. We have throwti away our bodies, and will not turn back. When you told u that your \ young men would kill us, you did not know that our hearts were strong, and you did not see the rifles which my young men carry iu their hands, i We are few, and you arc many, and may kill us all ; but there will be much crying in your villages, for many of your young men will stay be- hind, and forget to return with your warriors from the mountains. Do you think that our great chief will let his soldiers die, and forget to cover] their graves ? Before the snows melt again, his warriors will sweep away your villages as the fire does the prairie in the autumn. See! I havei pulled down my while houses, and my people are ready : when the sums ten paces higher, we shall be on the march. If you have any tlungtotell| us, you will say it soon." I broke up the conference, as I could do notli' ing with these people ; and, being resolved to proceed, nothing was to be I gained by delay. Accompanied by our hospitable friends, we returned to the camp. W^ehad mounted our horses, and our parting salutations had I been exchanged, when one of the chiefs (the Bull's Tail) arrived to tell I me that they had determined to send a young man with us ; and if I would point out the place of our evening camp, he should join us there, " The young man is poor," said he ; " he has no horse, and expects youto I give him one." I described to him the place where I intended to encamp, and, shaking hands, in a few minutes we were among the hills, and this I last habitation of whites shut out from our view. The road led over an interesting plateau between the North fork of the I Platte on the right, and Laramie river on the left. At the distance of ten miles from the fort, we entered the sandy bed of a creek, a kind of defile, shaded by precipitous rocks, down which we wound our way for several! hundred yards, to a place where, on the left bank, a very large spriiin gushes with considerable noise and force out of the limestone rock. It !s| called " the Warm Spring," and furnishes to the hitherto dry bed of tliel creek a considerable rivulet. On the opposite side, a little below thel spring, is a lofty limestone escarpment, partially shaded by a grove oil large trees, whose green foliage, in contrast with the whiteness of the roclJ renders this a picturesque locality. The rock is fossiliferous, and, so faraj I was able to determine the character of the fossils, belongs to the carboiii:] erous limestone of the Missouri river, and is probably the western liraitoi that formation. Beyond this point I met with no fossils of any descripf tion. I was desirous to visit* the Platte near the point where it leaves ttel Black hills, and therefore followed this stream, for two or three miles, i the mouth ; where I encamped on a spot which afforded good grass aoi prele {equisetum) for opr animals. Our tents having been found too tlm to protect ourselves and the instruments from the rains, which in tlii.j elevated country are attended with cold and unpleasant weather, I haJ procured from the Indians at Laramie a tolerably large lodge, about eigkl teen feet in diameter, and twenty feet in height. Such a lodge, wIik| properly pitched, is, from its conical form, almost perfectly secure agaiiu the violent winds which are frequent in this region, and, withs a fire iiitl* centre, is a dry and warm shelter in bad weather. By raising the lowei 47 C "*1 1 had killed hi g you peaceably heard are no! We have throwi (id u that you rts were strotii; iu their haiui^ ut there will I) en will slay bu inoutitains. 1) d forget to covr: will sweep awa, m. See ! I have r* ; when the sums e any thing to tell I could do uoih- othing was to be Is, we returned to g salutations had il) arrived to tell with us; and if I| uld join us there, and expects you to I tended to encamj , the hills, and tliiil part, so as to permit the breeze to pass freely, it is converted into a pleas- ant summer residence, with the extraordinary advontage of being entirely free from mosquitoes, one of which I have never seen in an Indian lodge. While we were engaged very unskilfully in erecting this, the interpreter, Mr. Bissonette, arrived, accompanied by the Indian and liis wife. She laughed at our awkwardness, and olfercd her assistance, of which we were frequently afterward obliged to avail ourselves, before the men actjuired sullicient expertncss to pitch it without dilliculty. From this place had a fine view of the gorge where the Platte issues from the Ulack } '"?, changing its character abruptly from a mountain stream into u river o ..» • plains. Immediately around us the valley of the stream»was toleiai y open ; and at the distance of a few miles, where the river had cut its way through the hills, was the narrow cleft, on one side of which a lofty preci- pice of bright red rock rose vertically above the low hills which lay be- tween us. Juli/ 22. — In the morning, while breakfast was being prepared, I visited this place with my favorite man, Basil Lajeuiiesse. Entering so far as there was footing for the mules, we dismounted, and, tying our animals, continued our way on foot. Like the, whole country, the scenery of the river had undergone an entire change, and was in this pinre the most beautiful I have ever seen. The breadth of the stream, generally near that of its valley, was from two to three hundred feet, with a swift cur- rent, occasionally broken by rapids, and the water pcirfectly clear. On either side rcse the red precipices, vertical, and sometimes overhanging, two and four hundred feet in height, crowned with green summits, on which were scattered a fe^ pines. At the foot of the rocks was the usual detritus, formed of masses fallen from above. Among the pines that grew here, and on the occasional banks, were the cherry, {cerusus virginiana,) currants, and grains de hoiwi {shepherdia argentea.) Viewed in the sun- shine of a pleasant morning, the scenery was of a most striking and ro« maiitic beauty, which arose from the picturesque disposition of the objects, and the vivid contrast of colors. I thought with much pleasure of our approaching descent in the canoe through such interesting places; and, in the expectation of being able at that time to give to them a full examina- tion, did not now dwell so much as might have been desirable upon the geological formations along the line of the river, where they are developed with great clearness. The upper portion of the red strata consists of very compact clay, in which are occasionally seen imbedded large pebbles. Below was a stratum of compact red sandstone, changing a little above the river into a very hard siliceous limestone. There is a small but hand- some open prairie immediately below this place, on the left bank of the river, which would be a good locality for a military post. There are some open groves of cotton wood on the Platte. The small stream which comes in at this place is well timbered with pine, and good building rock is abundant. If it is in contemplation to keep open the communications with Oregon territory, a show of military force in this country is absolutely necessary ; and a combination of advantages renders the neighborhood of Fort Lara- mie the most suitable place, on the line of the Platte, for the establishment of a military post. It is connected with, the mouth of the Platte and the Upper Missouri by excellent roads, which are in frequent use, and wottld liot in any way interfere with the range of the buffalo, on which the [a.-. C 174] 48 I I neighboring Indians mainly depend for support. It would render any posts on the Lower Platte unnecessary ; the ordinary communication be- tween it and the Missouri being sufficient to control the intermediate In- dians. It would operate effectually to prevent any such coalitions as are now formed among the Gros Ventres, Sioux, Cheyennes, and other Indians, and would keep the Oregon road through the valley of the Sweet Water and the South Pass of the mountains constantly open. A glance at the map which accompanies this report will show that it lies at, the foot of] a broken and inountainoas region, along which, by the establishment of I small posts in the neighborhood of St. Vrain's fort, on the South fork of [ the Platte, an* Bent's fort,pn the Arkansas, a line of communication would be formed, h/ good tvagon roads, with our southern military posts, which would entirely command the mountain passes, hold some of the most troublesome tribes in check, and protect and facilitate our intercourse with the neighbori'ig Spanish settlements. The valleys of the rivers on which! they would be situated are fertile ; the country, which supports immense I herds of buffalo, i^ admii"abiy adapted to grazing ; and herds of cattle might i be maintained by the posts, or obtained from the Spanish country, which I already supplies^ portion of their provisions to the trading posts mentioned above. Just, as we were leaving the camp this morning, our Indian came up, and silted his intention of not proceeding any further until he had seen the he ^e which I intended to give him. I felt strongly tempted to drive him out of the camp r but his presence appeared to give confidence to ray men, and the interpreter thought it absolutely necessary. I was there- fore obliged to do what he requested, and pointed out the animal, with which he seemed satisfied, and we continued our journey. I had ima- gined that Mr. Bissonette's long residence had made him acquainted with ihe country, and, according to his advice, proceeded directly forward, without attempting to regain the usual road. He afterward informed me that he had rarely ever lost sight of the fort ; but the effect of the mistake was to involve us for a day or tv/o among the hills, where, although we lost no time, we encountered an exceedingly rough road. To the south, along our line of march to-day, the main chain of the Black or Laramie hills rises precipitously. Time did not permit me to visit them ; but, from comparative information, the ridge is composed of the coarse sandstone or conglomerate hereafter described. It appears to enter the region of clouds, which are arrested iu ihf;ir course, and lie in masses along the summits. An inverted cone of black cloud (cumulus) rested during all the forenoon on the lofty peak of Laramie mountain, which I estimated to be about two thousand feet above the fort, or six thousand five hundred above the sea. We halted tc i.oon on the Fourch. Amlre, so called from being timbered principally with the Hard ani\n^ (a species of poplar,) with which the valley of the little stream is tolerably well wooded, and which, with large expansive summits, grows to the height of sixty or seventy feet. The bed of, the creek is sand and gravel, the water dispersed over the broad bed in several shallow streams. We found here, on the right bank, in the shade of e trees, a'fiue spring of very cold water. It will be re- marked that I d-* not mention, in this portion of the journey, the tempera- ture of the air, sand, springs, &c. — an omission which will be explained in 49 [ m] )uld render any nmunication be- intermediate In- coalitions as are nd other Indians, he Sweet Water A glance at the ?s at , the fool of establishment of he South fork of lunication would :ary posts, which me of the most intercourse with ) rivers on which upports immense | ds of cattle might h country, which r posts mentioned the course of the naTative. In my search for plants, I was well rewarded at this place. With the change in the geological formation on leaving Fort Lararaic, the whole face of the country has entirely altered its appearance. East- I ward of that meridian, the principal objects which strike the eye of a travel- 1 ler are the absence of timber, and the immense expanse of prairie, covered I with the verdure of rich grasses, and highly adapted for pasturage. Wher- *f ever they are not disturbed by the vicniity of man, large herds of buffalo give animation to this country. W^estward of Laramie river, the region is ' sandy, and apparently sterile; and the place of the grass is usurped by the artemisia and other odoriferous plants, to whose growth the sandy soil and dry air of this elevated region seem highly favorable. One of the prominent characteristics in the face of the country is the ex- traordinary abundance of the artemisias. They grow every where — on the hills, and over the river bottoms, in tough, twisted, wiry clumps ; and, wherever the beaten track was left, they rendered the progress of the carts rough and slow. As the country increased in elevation on our advance to the west, they increased in size ; and the whole air is strongly impreg- nated and saturated with the odor of camphor and spirits of turpentine which belongs to this plant. This climate has been found very favorable tcf the restoration < f health, particularly in cases of consumption ; and pos- sibly the respiration of air so highly impregnated by aromatic plants may have some influence. Our dried meat had given out, and we began to be in want of fond; but one of the hutiters killed an antelope this evening, which afforded some relief, although it did not go far among so many hungry men. At 8 o'clock at night, after a march of twenty-seven miles, we reached our propo.«ed en- campment on the Fer-a-CUevul, or Horse-shoe creek. Here we found good grass, with a great quantity o( prele, which furnished good food for our tired animals. This creek is well timbered, prineii)ally with Hard amhn, and, with the exception of Deer creek, which we had not yet reach- ed, is the largest affluent of the right bank between l^aramie and the mouth of the Sweet AVater, July 23. — The present year had been one of unpaialkiled drought, and througliout the country the water had been ahno'st dried up. By availiug themselves of the annual rise, the traders had invariably succeeded in carrying their furs to the Missouri ; but this season, as has already been mentioned, on both forks of the Platte they had entirely failed. The greater number of the springs, and many of the streams, which made halting places for the voyageurs, had been dried up. Every where the soil looked parched and burnt ; the scanty yellow grass crisped under the foot, and even the hardiest plants were destroyed by want of moisture. I think it necessary to mention this fact, because to the rapid evaporation in such an elevated region, nearly five thousand feet above the sea, almost wholly unprotected by timber, should be attributed much of the sterile appearance of the country, in the destruction of vegetation, and the numerous saline efflorescences which covered the ground. Such I afterward found to be the case. I was informed that the roving villages of Indians and travellers had never met with difficulty in finding an abundance of grass for their horses ; and now it was after great search that we were able to find a scanty patch of grass^ sufficient to keep them from sinking ; and in the cotfrse of a day I >'i [ 174] 30 :- or two they began to sufler very much. We found none to-day at noon ; and, in the course of our search on the Platte, came to a grove of cotton- wood, where some Indian village had recently encamped. Boughs of the Cottonwood yet green covered the ground, which the Indians had cut down to feed iheir horses upon. It is only in the winter that recourse is had to this means of sustaining them ; and their resort to it at ^his time was a striking evidence of the state of the country. We followed their example, and turned our horses into a grove of young poplars. This began to pre- sent itself as a very serious evil, for on our animals depended altogether the further prosecution of our journey. Shortly after we had left this place, the scouts came galloping in with the alarm of Indians. We turned in immediately toward the river, which here had a steep high bank, where we formed with the carts a very close barricade, resting on the river, within which the animals were strongly hobbled and picketed. The guns were discharged and reloaded, and men thrown forward, under cover of the bank, in the direction by which the Indians were expected. Our interpreter, who, with the Indian, had gone to meet them, came in, in about ten minutes, accompanied by two Sioux. They looked sulky, and we could obtain from them only some confused information. We learned that they belonged to the party which had bden on the trail of the emigrants, whom they had overtaken at Rock Independ- ence, on the Sweet Water. Here the party had disagreed, and came nigh fighting among ihemstlvos. One portion were desirous of attacking the whites, but ihe others were opposed to it; and finally they had broken up into small bands, and dispersed over the country. The greater portion ot them had gone over into the territory of the Crows, and intended to return by way of the Wirjd river valley, in the hope of being able to fall upoi; some small parties of Crow Indians. The remainder were returning down the Platte, in scattered parlies often and twenty; and those whom we had encountered belonged to those who had advocated an attack on the emi- grants. Several of the men suggested shooting them on the spot ; but 1 promptly discountenanced .any such -proceeding. They further informed me that bufialo were very scarce, and little or no gra^s to be found. There had been no rain, and intmmerable quantities of grasshoppers had destroy- ed the grass. This insect had been so numerous since leaving Fort Lara- mie, that the ground sTomed alive with them; and in walking, a little moving cloud preceded our footsteps. This was bad news. No grass, no buffalo — food for neither horse nor man. I gave them some plugs of to- bacco, and they went off, apparently well satisfied to be clear of us ; for my men did not look upon them very lovingly, and they glanced suspi- ciously at our warlike preparations, and the little ring of rifles which sur- rounded ihem. They were evidently in a bad humor, and shot one ot their horses when they had left us a short distance. We continued our march, and, after a journey of about twenty-one miles, encamped on the Platte. During the day, I had occasionally remarked among the hills the psoralea esculenta, the bread root of the Indians. The Sioux use this root very extensively, and I have frequently met with it among them, cut into tliin slices and dried. In the course of the even- ing we were visittc! by six Indians, who told us that a larger party was en- camped a few miles above. Astronomical observations placed us in longi- tude 104° 59' 59", and latitude 42° 39' 25". We made the next day twenty-two miles, and encamped on the right %SKi90m^lSH\ 51 C 174] to-day at noor, grove of cotton- . Boughs of the Indians had cut that recourse is t at ^his time was ed their example, 'his began to pre- ended altogether alloping in with I the river, which arts a very close Is were strongly ^loaded, and men ion by which the ndian, had gone d by two Sioux. y some confused r which had b^eii t Rock Independ- d, and came nigh of attacking the y had broken up greater portion of iitunded to return able to fall upoii 3 returning down se whom we had ack on the emi- the spot ; but I farther informed e found. There ers had destroy- ing Fort Lara- kvalking, a little No grass, no me plugs of to- Iclear of us ; for glanced snspi- Irifles which sur- nd shot one of renty-one miles. )nally remarked le Indians. The [ly met with it se of the even- 3r party was en- Iced us in longi- \d on the rigiit bank of the Platte, where a handsome meadow afforded tolerably good grass. There were the remains of an old foit here, thrown up in some sudden emergency, and on the opposite side was a picturesque bluff of ferruginous sandstone. There was a handsome grove a little above, and scattered groups of trees bordered the river. Buffalo made their appear- ance this afternoon, and the hunters came irj, shortly after we had encamp- ed, with three fine cows. The night was fine, and observations gave for the latitude of the camp, 42° 47' 40". July 25. — We made but thirteen miles this day, and encamped about noon ia a pleasant grove on the right bank, l^ow scaffolds were erected, upon which the meat was laid, cut up into thin strips, and small fires kindled below. Our object was to profit by the vicinity of the buffalo, to lay in a stock of provisions for ten or fifteen days. lu the course of the afternoon the hunters brought in five or six cows, and all hands were kept busily employed in preparing the meat, to the drying of which the guard attended during the night. Our people had recovered their gayety, and the busy figures around the blazing fires gave a picturesque air to the camp. A very serious accident occurred this morning, in the breaking of one of the barometers. These had been the object of my constant solici- tude, and, as I had intended them principally for mountain service, I had used them as seldom as po.ssible ; taking them always down at night, and on the occurrence of storms, in order to lessen the chances of being broken. I was reduced to one, a standard barometer of Troughton's construction. This I determined to preserve, if possible. The latitude is 42° 51' 35", and by a mean of the results from chronometer and lunar distances, the adopted longitude of this camp is 105° 50' 45". Juli/ 26. — Early this morning we were again in molioti. We had a stock of provisions for fifteen days carefully stored away in the carts, and this I resolved should only be encroached upon when our rifles should fail to procure us present support. I determined to reach the mountains, if it were in any way possible. In the mean tiino, buflulo were plenty. In six miles from our encampment, (which, by way of distinction, we shall call Dried Meat camp,) we crossed a handsome stream, called La Faurche Boistx. It is well timbered, and, among the flowers in bloom on its banks, I remarked several asters. Five miles further, we .nade our noon halt, on the banks of the Flatte, in the shade of some cottonwoods. There were iiere, as generally now along the river, thickets of hippophux, the ,s^vuiiis de bceuf of the country. They were of two kinds — one bearing a red berry, (tlie shep/icrdii: argen- tia of Nuttall ;) the other a vellow berry, of wliicli tlie Tartars are said to make a kind of rob. By a meridian observation, the latitude of the place was 42° 50' OS". It Was my daily practice to take observations of the sun's ni hundred feet iable width of iree feet deep, ide the ford in ver cannot be ?st ford The I in almost any some desciip- Tlie nature of limestone ai lout fossils, iidstona and ompact white are gray, yel- nt sterility of the nature of Hod hiiiy. It which come vo an undu- ents in an or- jion is there- jrcome. The iut waters o' 1 renders fre- )ns pass this :ient to brcal: A partia' id the rough- (he character on side red tht s through ai! greater par". west of the Rocky mountains, there is no such thing as a mountain road on the line of communication. We continued our way, and four miles beyond the ford Indiajis were discovered again ; and I halted while a party were sent forward fo ascertain who they were. In a short time they returned, accompanied by a number of Indians of the Oglallah baud of Sioux. Frouj them we received some interesting information. They had formed part of the great village, which they informed us had broken up, and was on its way home. The greater part of he village, inchiding the Arapahocs, Cheyennes, and Oglallahs, had crossed the Platte eight or te!i miles below the mouth of the Sweet Water, and were now behind the mountains to the south of us, intending 10 regain the Platte by way of Deer creek. They hud taken this unusual route in search of grass and game. They gave us a very discouraging nictnre of the country. The great drought, and the plague of grasshop- pers, had swept it so that scarce a blade of grass was to be seen, and there was not a buffalo to be found in the whole region. Their people, they further said, had been nearly starved to death, and we would find their road marked by lodges which they had thrown away in order to move more ^apidly, and by the carcasses of the horses which they had eaten, or which had perished by starvation. Such was the prospect before us. When he had finished the interpretation of these things, Mr. Bissonette immediately rode up to me, and urgently advised that I should entirely abandon the further prosecution of my exploration. " Le meilieure avis ueje pourrais vous donner c'est de virer de suife." " The best advice I can give you, is to turn back at once." It was his own intention to re- turn, as we had now reached the point to which he had engaged to attend me. In reply, I called up my men, and communicated to them fully the information I had just received. I then expressed to them my fixed de- termination to proceed to the end of the enterprise on which I had been sent ; but as the situation of the country gave me some reason to appre- hend that it mig * be attended with an unfortunate result to some of us, I would leave it optional with them to continue with me or to return. Among them were some five or six who I knew would remain. We had still ten days' provisions; and, should no game be found, when this stock was expended, we had our horses and mules, which we could eat when other means of subsistence failed. But not a man flinched from the undertaking. " We'll eat the mules," said liasil Lajeunesse ; and thereupon we shook hands with our interpreter and his Indians, and parted. With them I sent back one of my men, Dumcs, whom the effects •of an old wound in the" leg rendered incapable of continuing the journey on foot, and his horse seemed on the point of giving out. Having re- solved to disencumber ourselves immediately of every thing not abso- 'utely necessary to our future operations, I turned directly in toward the river, and encamped on the left bank, a little above tlie place where our council had been held, and where a thick grove of willows offered a suit- able spot for the object I had in view. The carts having been discharged, the covers and wheels were taken, off, and, with the frames, carried into some low places among the willows, and concealed in the dense foliage in such a manner that the glitter of the iron work might not attract the observation of some straggling Indian. In the sand, which had been blown up into waves among the willows, a arge iiole was then dug, ten feet square, and six deep. In the mean time, 1 I J I] 'Mi / I • I [ 174] 54 f i; all our effects had been spread out upon the ground, and whatever was designed to be carried along with us separated and laid aside, and the re- maining part carried to the hole and carefully covered Up. As much as possible, all traces of our proceedings were obliterated, and it wanted but a rain to render our cache safe beyond discovery. All the men were now set at work to arrange the pack saddles and make up the packs. The day was very warm and calm, and the sky entirely clear, except where, as usual along the summits of the mountainous ridge opposite, the clouds had congregated in masses. Our lodge had been planted, and, on account of the heat, the ground pins had been taken out, and the lower part slightly raised. Near to it was standing the barometer, which swung in a tripod frame; and within the lodge, where a small fire had been built, Mr. Preuss was occupied in observing the temperature of boiling water. At this instant, and without any warning until it was within fifty yards, a violent gust of wind dashed down the lodge, burying under it Mr. Preuss and about a dozen men, who had attempted to keep it from being carried away. I succeeded in saving the barometer, which the lodge was carry- ing off with itself, but the thermometer was broken. We had no others of a liigh graduation, none of those which remained going higher than 135° Fahrenheit. Our astronomical observations gave to this place, which we named Cache camp, a longitude of 106° 38' 26", latitude 42^ 50' 53". July 29. — All our arrangements having been completed, we left the en- campment at 7 o'clock this morning. In this vicinity the ordinary road leaves the Platte, and crosses over to the Sweet Water river, which it strikes near Rock Independence. Instead of following this road, I had determined to keep the immediate valley of the Platte so far as the mouth of the Sweet Water, in the expectation of finding better grass. To this I was further prompted by the nature of my instructions. To Mr. Carson was assigned the office of guide, as we had now reached a part of the country with which, or a great part of which, long residence had made him familiar. In a few miles we reached the Red Buttes, a famous land- mark in this country, whose geological composition is red sandstone, lime- stone, and calcareous sandstone and pudding stbne. The river here cuts its way through a ridge ; on the eastern side of \i are the lofty escarpments of red argillaceous sandstone, which are called the Red Buttes. In this passage the stream iS not much compressed or pent up, there being a bank of considerable though variable breadth on either side. Immediately on entering, we discovered a band of buffalo. The hunters failed to kill any of them; the leading hunter being thrown into a ravine, which occasioned some delay, and in the mean time the herd clambered up the steep face of the ridge. It is sometimes wonderful to see these apparently clumsy animals make their way up and down the most rugged and broken precipices. We halted to noon before we had cleared this passage, at a spot twelve miles distant from C«cAe camp, where we found an abutfdance of grass. So far, the account of the Indians was found to be false. On the banks were willow and cherry trees. The cherries were not yet ripe, but in the thickets were numerous fresh tracks of the grizzly bear, which are very fond of this fruit. The soil here is red, the composition being derived from the red sandstone. About seven miles brought us through the ridge, in which the course of the river is north and south. Here the valley opens out broadly, and high walls of the red formation present themselves among the hills to the east. We crossed I whatever was ie, and the re- As much as it wanted but [len were now cks. y clear, except e opposite, the anted, and, on and the lower , which swung lad been built, boiling water, lin fifty yards, • it Mr. Preuss I being carried ge was carry- had no others g higher than is place, which de 42^^ 50' 53". we left the en- ordinary road river, which it lis road, I had r as the month iss. To this I I'o Mr. Carson a part of the nee had made famous land- indstone, lime- tern side of it iich are called compressed or e breadth on d of buttalo. jeing thrown aean time the les wonderful and down the )efore we had camp, where Indians was trees. The s fresh tracks le soil here is About seven river is north lis of the red We crossed ii )» Ii '^^1 < o z a: ■ ii ' if here a p ed with like cha sonictini we mad Our atiit bod is iiM coiiglonil I.remarlJ mixed c| position July '^ a place v polos of ( who had character ;:^ thought i taitiiiig g the Swee river to a ■> with a I ;i^' interestin rugged li of spurs "i prairilloi low, and tw^en tw that on th with thin "^ posed en V strata int .It' large as a cline to t '? conglome of country I found it 109° 00'. 1 is compos which se ;1 away. These -^ am iiiclin« ■'■;*■ the great ':i [irairie co Crossin lies to the which w€ ■ ~'.-;^ pearaiice of a wiiit "T four hunc ■ i;' this place ^'^ and is al 3 1 i 65 [ 174 ] ;^.^- < o o z Q. I/) O z here a pretty little creek, an affluent of the right bank. It is well timber- ed with Cottonwood in this vicinity, and the absinthe has lost its shrub- like character, and be«omos small trees six and eight feet in height, and sometimes eight inches in diameter. Two or three miles above this creek we made our encampment, having travelled to-day twenty-five miles. Our animals fared well here, as there is an abundance of grass. The river bed is tnade up of pebbles, and in the bank, at the level of the water, is a conglomerate of coarse pebbUiS about the size of ostrich eggs, and which I. remarked in the banks of the Laramie fork. It is overlaid by a soil of mixed clay and sand, six feet thick. By astronomical observations, our position is in longitude 10G° 54' 32", and latitude 42° 38'. July 30. — After travelling about twelve miles this morning, we reached a place where the Indian village had crossed the river. Here were the poles of discarded lodges and skeletons of horses lying about. Mr. Carson, who had never been higher up than this point on the river, which has the character of being exceedingly rugged, and walled in by precipices above, thought it advisable to camp near this place, where we were certain of ob- taining grass, and to-morrow make our crossing among the rugged hills to the Sweet Water river. Accordingly we turned back and descended the river to an island near by, which was about twenty acres in size, covered with a luxuriant growth of gra«s. The formation here I found highly interesting. Immediately at this island the river is again shut up in the rugged hills, which come down to it from the main ridge in a succession of spurs three or four hundred feet high, and alternated with green level prairillons or meadows, bordered on the river banks with thickets of wil- low, and having many plants to interest the traveller. The island lies be- tween two of these ridges, three or four hundred yards apart, of which that on the right bank is composed entirely of red argillaceous sandstone, with thin layers of fibrous gypsum. On the left bank, the ridge is com- posed entirely of siliceous pudding stone, the pebbles in the numerous strata increasing in size from the top to the bottom, where they are as large as a man's head. So far as I was able to determine, these strata in- cline to the northeast, with a dip of about 15°. This pudding stone, or conglomerate formation, 1 was enabled to trace through ati extended range of country, from a few miles east of the meridian of Fort Laramie to where I found it superposed on the granite of the Rocky mountains, in longitude 109° 00'. From its appearance, the main chain of the Laramie mountain is composed of this rock; and in a number of places I found isolated hills, which served to mark a former level, which had been probably swept away. These conglomerates are very friable, and easily decomposed ; and I am inclined to think this formation is the source from which was derived the great deposite of sand and gravel which forms the surface rock of the prairie country west of the Mississippi. Crossing the ridge of red sandstone, and traversing the Ijttle prairie which lies to the southward of it, we made in the afternoon an excursion to a place which we have called the Hot Spring Gate. This place has much the ap. pearaiice of a gate, by which the Platte passes through a ridge composed of a white and calcareous sand.stone. The length of the passage is about four hundred yards, with a smooth green prairie on cither side. Through this place, ihestream flows with a quiet current, unbroken by any rapid, and is about seventy yards wide between the walls, which rise perpen- I \s \ L ' 1 1 \ 1 i ■ 'f| ■ 11 i i 1 II 1 y I j li y I 174] 56 dicularly from tho water. To that on the right bank, whicli is the lower, the barometer gave- a hiMght of three hundred and sixty feet. Annexed is a view of this i)lace, which will be more particularly described here- afler, as we pa-sod through it on our return. ' We saw here numerous lierds of Pxiuintain sheep, and freqtietUly heard the volley of rattling stones which acr iinpanied their rapid descent down the steep hills. This was Mie first i<;act» at which we had killed any of Ihesc animals ; and, in consequence of this circumstanc«', and of the abundance of these sheep or goats, (for they are called by each name,) we gave to our encampment the name of Goat Island. Their flesh is much esteemed by the hunters, and has very triuch the flavor of the Allegany njountain sheep. I have frequently seen the horns of this animal three feet long and seventeen inches in circumference at the base, weighing eleven pounds. But two or three of these were killed by our party at this place, and of these the horns were small. The use of those horns seems to be to protect the animal's head in pitching down precipices to avoid pursuing wolves — their only safety being in places where they can- not be followed. The bones are very strong and solid, tho marrow occu- pying but a very small portion of the bone in the leg, about the thickness of a rye straw. The hair is short, resembling the winter color of our com- mon deer, which it nearly approaches in size and appearance. Except in the horns, it has no resemblance whatever to the goat. The longitude of this place, resulting from chronometer and lunar distances, and an occulta- lion of* Arietis, is 107° 13' 29", and the latitude 42° 33' 27". One of our horses, which had given out, we left to receive strength on the island, intend- ing to take her, perhaps, on our return. - July 31. — This morning we left the course of the Platte, to cross over to the Sweet Water. Our way, for a few miles, lay up the sandy bed of a dry creek, in which I found several interesting plants. Leaving this, we wound our way to the summit of the hills, of which the peaks are here eight hundred feet above the Platte, bare and rocky. A long and gradual slope led from these hills to the Sweet Water, which we reached in fifteen miles from Goat Island. I made an early encampment here, in order to give the hunters an opportunity to procure a supply from several bands of bmffalo, which made their appearance in the valley near by. The stream here is about sixty feet wide, and at this time twelve to eighteen inches deep, with a very moderate current. Tht? adjoining prairies are s;tndy, but the immediate river bottom is a goi»d soil, which afforded an abundance of soft green grass to our horses, and where I found a variety of interesting plants, which made their ap- pearance for the first time. A rain to-night made it unpleasantly cold: and there was no tree here, to enable ns to pitch our single tent, the poles of which had been left at Cache camp. We had, therefore, no shelter except what was to be found under cover of the absinthe bushes, which grew in many thick patches, one or two and sometimes three feet high. August 1. — The hunters went ahead this morning, as buffalo appeared tolerably abundant, and I was desirous to secure a small stock of pro- visions; and we moved about seven miles up the valley, and encamped one mile below Rock Independence. This is an isolated granite rock, about six hundred and fifty yards long, and forty in height. Except in a depression of the summit, where a little soil support^ a scanty growth ch is the lower, feet. Annexed described here- reqiienlly heard i descent down id killed any ot Cf, and of the ;ach name,) we ir flesh is murli >f the Allegany lis animal three base, weighing )y our party at of these horns m precipices to irhere they can- -i marrow occu- lt the thickness lor of our corn- ice. Except in ^he longitude of and an occulta- J". One of our e island, intend- 6, to cross over le sandy bed of aving this, we )eaks are here g and gradual died in fifteen ire, in order to veral bands of The stream ghteeii inches er bottom is a to our horses, lade their ap- :asantly cold: lent, the poles re, no shelter bushes, which es three feet Tfalo appeared stock of pro- fid encamped granite rock. Except in Icanty growth I t! Mi*! M of Nliriil withiu smooth, with th« country, those of .sionarie! the ruin this roo our oani meat. 4'v'^ 29' called ih a graiiit) and the four hun choked \ right hai ite. Ne; tiou, con gloinerat of which any kind hois de Vi We hi squulls O! luresque. the 1110 nn thousand to-night ii have just masses ri; line of b and there have clus tation. Among ridges, gr these mot profusion grandeur the right 1 its southe elevated and shine vation. along the Scattered these whi muf 1, in n ! hW Lv u^^_i 'w:^ 37 C 174] of Hliriibs, with a solUnry dwarf pine, it is entirely bare. Every where withiu six or eight feet of the ground, where the surface is sufficiently smooth, iitid in some places sixty or eighty leet above, the rock is inscribed with the names of travellers. Many n name famous in the history of this cotmtry, and some well known to science, are to be found mixed among those of the traders and of travellers for pleasure and curiosity,and of mis- sionaries among the savages. Some of these liave been washed away by the rain, but the greater number are still very legible. The position of Ibis rock is in longitude 107° 56', latitude 13° 29' ;J6". Wo remained at our camp of August 1st until noon of the next day, occupied in drying meat. By observation, the longitude of the place is 107° 25' 23", latitude 42° 29' 5«". Au!just 2. — Five miles above Hock Independence we came to a place called the Devil's Gate, where the Sweet Water cuts through the point of a granite ridge. The length of the passage is about three hundred yards, and the width thirty-five yards. The walls of rock are vertical, and about four hundred feet in height; and the stream in the gate is almost entirely choked up by mnsses which have fallen from above. In the wall, on the right bank, is a dike 5T trap rock, cutting through a fine-grained gray gran- ite. Near the point of this ridge crop out some strata of the valley forma- tion, consisting of a grayish micaceous sandstone, and fine-grained con- glomerate, and marl. We encamped eight miles above the Devil's Gate, of which a view is given in the annexed |)late. There was no timber of any kind on the river, but good fires were made of drift wooc!, aided by the hois (le vac he. VVe had to night no shelter from the rain, which commenced with squalls of wind ai)out sunset. The country here is exceedingly pic- turesque. On either side of the valley, which is four or five miles broad, the mountains rise to the height of twelve and fifteen hundred or two thousand feet. (Tn the south side, the range appears to be timbered, and to-night is luminous with fires — probably the work of the Indians, who l\ave just passed through the valley. On the north, broken and granite masses rise abruptly from the green sward of the river, terminating in a line of broken summits. Except in the crevices of the rock, and here and there on a ledge or bench of the mountain, where a few hardy pines have clustered together, these are perfectly bare and destittate of vege- tation. Among these masses, where there are sometimes isolated hills and ridges, green valleys open in upon the river, which sweeps the base of these mountains for thirty-six miles. Every where its deep verdure and profusion of beautiful flowers is in pleasing contrast with the sterile grandeur of the rock and the barrenness of the sandy plain, which, from the right bank of the river, sweeps up to the mountain range that forms Its southern boundary. The great evaporation on tVie sandy soil of this elevated plain, and the saline efflorescences which whiten the ground, and shine like lakes reflecting the sun, make a soil wholly unfit for culti- vation. *^ugust 3. — We were early on the road the next naorning, travelling along the upland part of the valley, which is overgrown with artemisia. Scattered about on the plain are occasional small isolated hills. One of these which I examined, about fifty feet high, consisted of white clay and raurl, in nearly horizontal strata. Several bands of buflklo made their ap- I :**' [ 174] 53 pearance to-day, with herds of antelope ; and a grizzly bear — the only one we encountered during the journey — was seen scrambling up among the rocks. As we passed oyer a slight rise near the river, we caught the first view of the Wind river mountains, appearing, at this distance of about seventy miles, to be a low and dark mountainous ridge. The view dissipat- yd in a moment the pictures which had been created in our minds, by many descriptions of travellers, who have compared these mountains to the Alps in Switzerland, and speak of the glittering peaks which rise in icy majesty amidst the eternal glaciers nine or ten thousand feet into the region of eter- nal snows. The nakedness of the river was relieved by groves of willows, where we encamped at night, after a march of twenty-six miles ; and nu- nierous bright-colored flowers had made the river bottom look gay as a garden. We found here a horse, which had been abandoned by the In- dians, because his hoofs had been so much worn that he was unable to travel; and, during the night, a dog came into the camp. August 4. — Our camp was at the foot of the granite mountains, which we climbed this niorning to take some barometrical heights; and here among the rocks was seen the first magpie. On our return, we saw one at the mouth of the Platte river. We left here one of our horses, which was unable to proceed farther. A few miies from th6 encampment we left the river, which makes a bend to the south, and, traversing an undulating country, consisting of a grayish micaceous sandstone and fine-grained con- glomerates, struck it again, and encamped, after a journey of twenty-five miles. Astronomical observations placed us in latitude 48° 32' 30 ", and longitude 108° 30' 13". August 5. — The morning was dark, with a driving rain, and disagree- ably cold. We continued our route as usual ; but the weather became so bad, that we were glad to avail ourselves of the shelter oflfered by a small island, about ten miles above our last encampment, which was covered with a dense growth of willows. There was fine grass for our animals, and the timber afforded us comfortable protection and good fires. In the afternoon, the sun broke through the clouds for a short time, and the ba- rometer at 5, p. m., was at 23.713, the thermometer 60°, with the wind strong from the northwest. We availed ourselves of the fiine weather to make excursions in the neighborhood. The river, at this place, is border- ed by hills of the valley formation. They are of moderate height : one of the highest peaks on the right bank being, according to the barometer, one hundred and eighty feet above the river. On the left bank they are higher. They consist of a fine white clayey sandstone, a white calcareous sandstone, and coarse sandstone or puddiijg sione, Jlugust 6. — It continued steadily rpining all the day ; but, notwithstand- ing, we left our encampmeiu in the afternoon. Our animals had been much refreshed by their repose, and an abundance of rich, soft grass, which had been much improved by the rains. In about three miles, we reached the entrance of a kanyon, where the Sweet Water issues upon the more open valley we had passed over. Immediately at the entrance, and super- imposed directly upon the granite, are strata of compact calcareous <;and- stone ai'd chert, alternaiiiig with fine white and roddish white, and fine gray and red sandstones. These strata dip to the eastward at an angle of about 18", and form the western limit of the sandstone and limestone fuima- tions on the line of our route. Here we entered an ng the primitive rocks. The usual road passes to the right of this place ; but we wound, 59 [ 174] r — the only one » up among the caught the first itance of about 3 view dissipai- minds, by many iins to the Alps ! in icy majesty J region of eter- )ves of willows, miles ; and nu> 1 look gay as a ned by the In- i was unable to untains, which ghts; and here rn, we saw one r horses, which iipment we left > an undulating lie -grained con- of twenty-five i° 32' 30", and I, and disagree- ther became so ^red by a small ;h was covered our animals, fires. In the and the ba- with the wind ne weather to ace, is border- height : one of )aro meter, one ley are higher, ous sandstone, notwithsland- nals had been grass, which , we reached )on the more ce, and super- careous "and- lite, and fine it an angle of esloiie fuima- the primitive t we wound, or rather scrambled, our way up the narrow valley for several hours. Wildneas and disorder were the character of this scenery. The river had been swollen by the late rains, ard came rushing through with an impetuous current, three or four feet deep, and generally twenty yards broad. The valley was sometimes the bread. h of the stream, and sometimes opened into little green meadows, si^t ' yards wide, with open groves of aspen. The stream was bordered thro' gliout with aspen, beech, and willow ; and tall pines grew on the sides and summits of the crags. On both sides, the granite rocks rose precipitously to the height of three hundred and five li'nidred feet, terminating in jagged and broken pointed peaks ; and frag- ments of fallen rock lay piled up at the foot of the precipices. Gneiss, mica slate, and a white granite, were among the varieties I noticed. Here were many old traces of beaver on the stream ; remnants of dams, near which were lying trees, which they had cut down, one and two feet in diameter. The hills entirely shut up the river at the end of about five miles, and we turned up a ravine that led to a high prairie, which seemed to be the general level of the country. Hence, to the summit of the ridge, there is a regular and verv gradual rise. Blocks of granite were piled up at the heads of the ravii.- ^ and small bare knolls of mica slate and milky quartz protruded at frequent intervals on the prairie, which was whitened in o'^casional spots with small salt laker, where the water had evaporated, and left the bed covered with a shining incrustation of salt. The evening was very cold, a northwest wind driving a fine rain in our faces ; and at nightfall we descended to a little stream, on which we encamped, about two miles fr 3m the Sweet Water. Here had recently been a very large camp of Snake and Crow Indians ; and some large poles lying about af- forded the means of pitching a tent, and making other places of shelter. Our fires to-night were made principally of the dry branches of the arte- misia, which covered the slopes. It burns quickly, with a clear oily fiame, and makes a hot fire. The hills here are composed of hard, compact mica slate, with veins of quartz. Augwit 7. — We left cur encampment with the rising sun. As we rose from the bed of the creek, the /tnow\me of the mountains stretched grandly before us, the white peaks glittering in the sun. They had been hidden in the dark weather of the last few days, and it had been snowing on them, while it rained in the plains. We crossed a ridge, and again struck tlie Sweet Water — here a beautiful, swift stream, with a more open valley, timbered with beech and cottonwood. It now began to lose itself in the many small forks which make its head ; and we continued up the main stream until near noon, when we left it a few miles, to make our noon halt on a small creek among the hills, from which the stream issues by a small opening. Withiii was a beautiful grassy spot, covered with an open grove of large beech trees, among which I found several plants that I had not previously seen. The afternoon was cloudy, with squalls of rain ; but the weather be- came fine at sunset, when we again encamped on the Sweet Water, with- in a few, miles of the South Pass. The country over which we have passed today consists principally of the compact inica slate, which crops out on all the ridges, making the uplands very rocky and slaty. In the escarpments which border the creeks, it is seen alternating with a light- colored granite, at an inclination of 45°; the beds varying in thickness Irom two or three foet to six or eight hundred. At a distance, the granite . K; 1 1 : ;, I I' », ■i: I [ 174] 60 frequently has the appearance of irregular lumps of clay, hardened by ex. posure. A variety of aslers may now be numbered amoug the character- istic plants, and the artemisia continues in fail glory ; but cadi have be. come rare, and mosses begin to dispute the hills with them. The evening was damp a»id unpleasant; the thermometer, at 10 o'clock, being at 36\ and the grass wet with a heavy dew. Our astronomical observations placed this cncamptment in longitude 109° 21' 32", and latitude 42° 27' 15". Early in the morning we resumed our journey, the weather still cloudy, with occasional rain. Our general course was west, as 2 had determined to crcs the dividing ridge by a bridle path among the broken country more immediately at the foot of the mountains, and return by the wagon road, two and a half miles to the south of the point where the trail crosses. About six miles from our encampment brought us to the summit. The ascent had been so gradual, that, with all the intimate knowledge pos- sessed by Carson, who had made this country his home for seventesn years, we were obliged to watch very closely to find the place at which we had reached the culminating point. This was between two low hills, rising on either hand fifty or sixty feet. When I looked back at them, from the foot of the immediate slops on the western plain, their summits appeared to be about one hundred and twenty feet above. From the im- pression on my mind at this time, and subsequently on our return, I should compare the elevation which we surmounted immediately at the Pass, to the ascent of the Capitol hill from the avenue, at Washington. It is diffi- cult for me to fix positively the breadth of this pass. From the broken ground where it commences, at the foot of the Wind river chain, the view to the southeast is over a champaign country, broken, at the distance of nineteen miles, by the Table rock ; which, with the other isolated hills in its vicinity, seems to stand on a comparative plain. This I judged to be its termination, the ridge recovering its rugged character with the Table rock. It will be seen that it in no manner resembles the places to which the term is commonly applied — nothing of the gorge-like character and winding ascents of the Allegheny passes in America: noihing of the Great 'M. Bernard and Simplon passes in Europe. Approaching it from the mouth of the Sweet Water, a sandy plain, one hundred and twenty miles long, conducts, by a gradual and regular ascent, to the summit, about seven thousand feet above the sea; and the traveller, without being re- minded of any change by toilsome ascents, suddenly finds himself on the waters which flow to the Pacific ocean. By the route we had travelled, the distance from Fort Laramie is three hundred and twenty miles, or nine hundred and fifty from the mouth of the Kansas, Coi;tinuing our march, we reached, in eight miles from the Pass, the Little Sandy, one of the tributaries of the Colorado, or Green river of the Gulf of California. The weather had grown fine during the morning, and we remained here the rest of the day, to dry our baggage and take some astronomical observations. The stream was about forty feet wide, and two or three deep, with cle^ir water and a full swift current, over a sandy bed. It was timbered with a growth of low bushy and dense willows, among wMch were little verdant spots, whicli gave our animals fine grass, and where I found a number of interesting plants. Among the neighbor- ing hills I noticed fragments of granite containing magnetic iron. Longi- tude of the camp was 109° 'M' 59", and latitude 42° 27' 34". ^itigust 9. — We made our noon halt to day on Big Sandy, another IC- 61 [ 174] tributary of Green river. The face of the country traversed was of a brown sand of granite materials, the detritus of the neighboring mountains. Strata of the milky quartz cropped out, and blocks of granite were scat- tered about, containing magnetic iron. On Sandy creek the formation was of parti-colored sand, exhibited in escarpments fifty to eighty feet high. In the afternoon we had a severe storm of hail, and encamped at sunset on the first New Fork. Within the space of a few miles, the Wind moun- ! tains supply a number of tributaries to Green river, which are all called the. \New Forks, Near our camp were two remarkable isolated hills, one of them sufliciently large to merit the name of mountain. They are called [the Two Buttes, and will serve to identify the place of our encampment, [which the observations of the evening placed in longitude 109° 58' 11", land latitude 42° 42' 46". On the right bank of the stream, opposite to the [jarge hill, the strata which are displayed consist of decomposing granite, I which supplies the brown sand of which the face of the country is com- posed to a considerable depfh. *3iigust 10. — The air at sunrise is clear and pure, and the morning ex- tremely cold, but beautiful. A lofty snow peak of the mountain is glitter- ing in ihe first rays of the sun, which has not yet reached us. The long mountain wall to the east, rising two thousand feet abruptly from the plani, behind which we see the peaks, is siill dark, and cuts clear agains:. the glowing sky. A fog, just risen from the river, lies along the tjase of the mountain. A little before sunris'^, the thermometer was at 35°, and at sunrise 33°. Water froze last night, and fires are very comfortable. The scer^ry becomes honrly more interesting and grand, and the view here is truly magnificent; but, indeed, it meds something to repay the '"ng prai- rie journey of a thousand miles. The sun has jnst shot above i^-e wall, and makes a magical change. The whole valley is glowing atio bright, and all the mountain peaks are gloaming like silver. Though these snow mountains are not the Alps, they have their own character of grandeur and raagtiificence, and will doubtless find pens and pencils to do then: I justice. In the scctic before us, we U'.el how much wood improves a view. The pines on the mountain seemed to give it much additional beanty. i WHS agreeably disappointed in the chaructor of the streams on this side of the ridge. Instead of the creeks, wliich description had led me to expect, J find bold, broad streams, with three or four feet water, and a rapid cur* rent. The fork on which we are encamped is upwards of a hundred feet wide, timbered with groves or thickets of the lo^ ' willow. We were now approaching the loftiest part of the Wind river chain ; and I left the- val- ley a few miles from our encampment, intending to penetrate the moun- tains as far as possible with the whole party. We vk^ere soon involvid in very broken ground, among long ridges covered with fragments of granite. Winding our way up a long ravine, we came unexpectedly in view of a most beautiful lake, set like a gem in the mountains. The sheet of water lay transversely across the direction we had been pursuing; ana, descend- ing the steep, rocky ridge, where it was necessary to lead our liorses, we followed its banks to the southern extremity. Here a view of the utmost magnificence and grandeur hnrsl upon our eyes. With nothing between us and their feet to lessen the effect of tlie whole height, a grind bed of snow-capped mountains ro.se before us,' pile upon pile, gh/wing in the bright light of an August day. Immediately below them lay the lake, between two I idge.s, covered with dark pines, which swept dowu from C 174] 62 (:! !! t' ! » .'I ! .1 ;; ;i the main chain to the spot where we stood. Here, where the lake glittered in the open sunlight, its banks of yellow sand and the liglit foliage of aspen groves contrasted well with the gloomy pines. " Never before," said Mr. Preuss, "in this country o: in Europe, have I seen such naagnificent. grand rocks." I was so much pleased with the beauty of the place, thai i determined to make the main camp here, where our animals would find good pasturage, and explore the mountains with a small party of men. Proceeding a little furtljer, we came suddenly upon the outlet of the lake, where it found its way through a narrow passage between low hills. Dark pihes, which overhung the stream, and masses of rock, where the watei foamed along, gave it much romantic beauty. Where we crossed, which was immediately at the outlet, it is two hundred and fifty feet wide and so deep, that with difficulty we v^^re able to ford it. Its bed was an ac- cunmlation of rocks, boulders, and broad slabs, and large angular frag- ments, among which the animals fell repeatedly. The current was very swift, and the water cold, and of a crystal purity. In crossing this stream, I met with a great misfortune in having my ba- rometer broken. It was the only one. A great part of the interest of the journey for me was in the exploration of thesj mountains, of which so much had been said that was doubtful and contradictory; and now their snowy peaks rose majestically before me, and the only means of giving them authentically to science, the object of my anxious solicitude by night and day, was destroyed. Wc hud brought this barometer in safety a thousand miles, and broke it almost among the snow of the mountains, The loss was felt by the whole camp — all had seen my anxiety, and aided me in preserving it. The height of these mountains, considered by the hunters and traders the highest in the whole range, had been a theme of constant discussioii among them ; and all had looked forward witn pleas- ure to the moment when the instrument, which they believed to be true as the sun, should stand upon the summits, and decide their disputes. Their grief was only inferior to my own. This lake is about three miles long, and of very irregular width, and apparently great depth, and is the head water of the third New Fork, a tributary to Green river, the Colorado of the west. On the map and in the narrative, I have called it Mountain lake. I encamped on the north sidp. about three hundred and fifty yards from the outlet. This was the mos; west; rn point at which I obtained astronomical observations, by wliif;. this place, called Bernier's encampment, is made in 110° OS' 03" west lo! gitudi? iVoai Greenwich, and latitude 43'^ 49' 49". The mountain peaks. as laid down, were fixed by bearings from this and other astronomical points. We had no other compass than the small ones used in sketching the country; but from an azimuth, in which one of them was used, the variation of the compass is 18° east. The correction made in our tielii work by the astronomical observations indicates that this is a very correct observation. As Sdon as the camp was formed, I set about endeaVoring to repair ray barometer. As I have already said, this was a standard cistern barometer, of Troiij'l-ton's construction. The glas.^; cistern had been broken al-^'" midway; but as the instrument had been kept in a proper position, ncir had found its way into the tube, the end of which had always remained covered. I had with me a number of vials of tolerably thick glass, some of which were of the same diameter as the cicitern, and I spent the dayi" .A k., 63 L 174] I to repair my ;ern barometer, broken aL.'Ui osition, no?ir ays remained ick glass, some (flit the day i" slowly working on these, endeavoring to cut them of the requisite length ; but, as my instrument was a very rough*5le, I invariably broko them. A groove was cut in one of the trees, where the barometer was placed during the night, to be out of the way of any possible danger, and in the morning I commenced again. Among the powder horns in the camp, I found one which was very transparent, so that its contents could be almost as plainly seen as through glass. This I boiled and stretched on a piece of wood to the requisite diameter, and scraped it very thin, in order to increase to the utmost its transparency. I then secured it firmly in its place on the instru- ment, with strong glue made from a buffalo, and filled it with mercury, properly heated. A piece of skin, which had covered one of the vials, furnished a good pocket, which was well secured with strong thread and glue, and then the brass cover was screwed to its place. The instrument was left some time to dry ; and when I reversed it, a few hours after, I had the satisfaction to find it in perfect order ; its indications being about the same as on the other side of the lake before it had been broken. Our suc- cess in this little incident diffused pleasure tiirougliout the camp ; and we immediately set about our preparatic s for ascending the mountains. As will be seen on reference to a map, on this short mountain chain are the head waters of four great rivers of the continent ; namely, the Col- orado, Columbia, Missouri, and Platte rivers. It had been my design, af- ter having ascended the mountains, to continue our route on the western side o( the range, and crossing through a pass at the northwestern end of the chain, about thirty miles from our present camp, return along the eastern slope, across the heads of the Yellowstone river, and join on the line to our station of August 7, immediately at the foot of the ridge. In this way, I should be . cabled to include the whole chain, and its nume- rous waters, in my survey ; but various considerations induced me, very reluctantly, to abandon this plan. I was desirous to keep strictly within the scope of my instructions ; and it would have required ten of fifteen additional days for the accomplishment of this object ; our animals had become very much worn out with the length of the journey; game was very scarce ; and, though it does not appear in the course of the narative, (as I have avoided dwelling upoji trifling inci- dents not connected with the objects of the expedition.) the spirits of the men had been much exhausted by the hardsliips and privations to which they had been subjected. Our provisions had welhiigh al! disappeared. Bread had been long out of the question ; and of all our stock, we had re- maining two 01 three pounds of coffee, and a small qnnntily ofniaccaroni, whith had been husbanded with great core for \hv. nioniitain expedition we were about to undertake. Our daily meal c:.nsistod of dry bnffalo meat, cooked in tallow; and, as we had not dried this with Indian skill, part of it was spoiled; and what remained ofgoorl, w:is as hard as woo'1, having much the taste and appearance of so many pieces of bark. Even of this, our stock was rapidly diminishing in a camp which was capable of consuming two buffaloes in every twenty-four hours. These animals had entirely disappeared; and it was not probable that wc should fall i>i with them again until we returned to the Sweet Wafer. Our arrangements for the ascent were rapidly completed. We were iti a hostile country, which rendered the greatest vigilance and circumspec- tion necessary. The pass at the north end of the mountain was generally infested by Blackfeet ; and immediately opposite was one of their forts, on ■m I n I .1 f .;! [174] 64 the edge of a little thicket, two or three hundred feet from our encanip- ment. We were posted in a grove of beech, on the margin of the lake, and a few hundred feet long, wiih a narrow prairillon on the itnicr sido, bordered by the rocky ridge. In the upper end of this grove we cleared a circular space about forty feet in diameter, and, with the felled timber and interwoven branches, surrounded it with a breastwork five feet in height. A gap was left for a gate oii the inner side, by which the animals were to be driven in and secured, while (he men slept around the little work. It was half hidden by the foliage; i,ijd, garrisoned by twelve resolute men, would have set at defiance any band of savages which might chance to discover them in the interval of our absence. Fifteen of the best mules, with fourteen men, were selected for the mountain party. Our pro- visions consisted of dried meat for two days, with our little stock of cotfec and some maccaroni. In addition to the barometer and a thermometer, 1 took with me a sextant and spy glass, and we had of course our compasses. In charge of the camp I left liernicr, one of my most trustworthy men, who po.ssessed the most determined courage. ^'ingusl 12. — Early in th». jnorning we left the camp, fifteen in number. Well armed, of course, and mounted on our best mules. A pack animai carried our provisions, with a cofTeu pot and kettle, and three or four tin cups. Every man had a blanket strapped over his saddle, to serve for his bed, and the instruments were carried by turns on their backs. We en- tered directly oa rough and rocky ground; and, just after crossing the ridge, had the good fortune to shoot an antelope. We heard the roar, and had a glimpse of a waterfall as wc rode along; and, crossing in our way two fitie streams, tributary to the Colorado, in about two hours' ride we reached the top of the firi^t row or range of the mountains. Here, again, a view of the most romantic beauty met ojur eyes. It seemed as if, trora the vast expanse of uninteresting prairie we had passed over. Nature had collected all her beauties togetlier in one chosen place. We were over- looking a deep valley, which was entirely occupied by three lakes, and from the brink the surrounding ridges rose precipitously five hundred and a tliousand feet, covered with the dark green of the balsam pine, relieved on the border of the lake with the light foliage of the aspen. They ail comnumicated with each other; and the green of the waters, common to monntaii) lakes of great depth, showed that it would be in)possib!c to cross them. The surprise matiifested by our guides when these impassaWt obstacles suddenly barred our progress proved that they were among tin ;., hidden treasures of the place, unknown even to the wandering trappers o! the region. Descending the hill. We proceeded to make our way alone the margin to the southern extremity. A narrow strip of angular 4'rag- ments of rock sometimes afforded a rough pathway for our nmles, but generally we rode along the shelving side, occasionally scrambling up, aia coirsiderable risk of tumblin;^ back into the lake. The slope was frequently 00°; the pines grow densely together, and the ground was covered with the branches and trunks of trees. The an was fragrant with the odor of the pines; and I realized this deliglitt'u: morning the pleasure of breathing that mountain an* which makes a con- stant theme of the Iui.'ut's praise, and which now made us feel as if wt had all been drinking .some exhilarating gas. The depths of this unex- plored forest were a place to delight the heart of a botanist. There wa' a rich undergrowth of plants, and numerous gay-colored flowers ia bri'- ■V w. % V 65 lur encanip- of the lake, e inner side, we cleared a i timber and et in height, nimals were e little work, elve resolute might chance I of the hes', ty. Our pro- ,ock of cotfec lermometer, 1 ur compasses. ;worthy men, en in number, pack animal ae or four tin serve for hir tcks. We en- r crossing the \ the roar, and ng in our way lOurs' ride we Here, again, jued as if, Iroffi r, Nature had e were ovcr- lee lakes, uuJ hundred and pine, relieved en. They ail ;rs, common to impossible to se impassable re among the [ng trappers o! )nr wny alone angular 4'rag- lur mules, btii jibling up, au together, and Irees. The an Ithis deligliti'u: makes a coo- feel as if we of this unev It. There wa' lowers ill bri- [ 174] liant bloom. We reached the outlet at length, where some freshly barked willows that lay in the water showed that beaver had been recently at work. There were some small brown squirrels jumping about in the pin^s, and a couple of large mallard ducks swimming about in the stream. The hills on this southern end we're low, and the lake looked like a mimic sea, as the waves broke on the sandy beach in the force of a strong breeze. There wis a pretty open spot, with fine grass for our mules; and we made our noon halt on the beach, under the shade of some large hem- locks. We resumed our journey after a halt of about an hour, making our way up the ridge on the w6stern side of the lake. In search of smoother {'ground, we rode a Uttle inland; and, passing through groves of aspen, soon found ourselves again among the pines. Emerging from these, we struck the summit of the ridge above the upper end of the lake. We had reached a very elevated point ; and in the valley below, and [aoiong the hills, were a number of lakes at different levels; some two or three hundred feet above others, with which they communicated by foam- ling torrents. Even to our great height, the roar of the cataracts came up, land we coiild see them leaping down in lines of snowy foam. From this [scene of busy waters, we turned abruptly into the stillness of a forest, [where we rode among the open bolls of the pines, over a lawn of verdant [grass, having strikingly the air of cultivated grounds. This led us, after [a time, among masses of rock which had no vegetable earth but in hollows md crevices, though still the pine forest continued. Toward evening, we reached a defile, or rather a hole in the mountains, entirely shut in by dark )ine-covered rocks. A .<;mall stream, with a scarcely perceptible current, flowed through a .;1 bottom of perhaps eighty yards width, where the grass was saturated riih water. Into this the mules were turned, and were neither hobbled aor picketed during the ni|;ht, as the fine pasturage took away all tempta- \ion to stray ; and we made our bivouac in the pines. The surrounding lasses were all of granite. While supper was being prepared, 1 set out »n an excursion in the neighborhood, accompanied by one of my men. h wandered about among the crags and ravines until dark, richly repaid )r our walk by a fine collection of plants, many of them in full bloom. i?cending a peak to find the place of our camp, we saw that the little jlefile in which we lay communicated with the long green valley of some tream, which, here locked up in the mountains, far away to the south, )und its way in a dense forest to the plains. Looking along its upward course, it seemed to conduct, by a smooth gradual slope, directly toward the peak, which, from long consultation as re approached the mountain, we had decided to be the highest of the mge. Pleased with the discovery of so fine a road for the next day, we lastened down to the camp, where we arrived just in time for supper. >ur table service was rather scant; and we held the meat ifi our hands, id clean rocks made good plates, on which we spread our maccaroni. Lmong all the strange places on which we had occasion to encamp during \\t long journey, none have left so vivid an impression on my mind as he camp of this evening. The disorder of the masses which surrounded the little hole through which we saw the stars overhead ; the dark fines where we slept ; and the rocks lit up with the glow of our fires, liade a jught picture of very wild beauty. rlw 13. — ^The mofuing was bright and pleasant, just cool enough 5 lt«cl ::% v., I ^ugt 174 ] C6 ii I' to make exercise agreeable, and we soon entered th ? defile 1 had seen the preceding day. It wus smoothly carpeted with a soft grass, and scattered over with groups of (lowers, of which yellow* was the predominant color. Sometimes we were forced, by an occasional difficult pa8&,to pick our^way on a narrow ledge along the side of the defile, and the mules were fre- quently on tleir knees; but these obstructions were rare,and we journeyed on in the sweet morning air, delighted at our good fortune in having found such a beautiful entrance to the mountains. This road continued far about three miles, when we suddenly reached its termination in one of the grand views which, at every turn, meet the Iravellejr- in this magnificent region. Here the defile up which wo had travelled opened out into a small lawn, where, in a little lake, the stream had its source. There were some fine asters in bloom, but all the flowering plants appear- ed to seek the shelter of the rocks, and to be of lower growth than below, as if they loved tl e warmth of the soil, and kept out of the way of the winds, ^ 'i'i;^tely at our feet a precipitous descent led to a confusiofl of defiles, t be ^ 3 us rose the mountains as we have represented them in the annex, i view It is not by the splendor of far-off views, which have lent such a gloi) ,o the Alps, that these impress the mind ; but by a gigantic disorder of enormous masses, and a savage sublimity of naked rock, in wonderful contrast with innumerable green spots of a rich floral beauty, shut up in thtir stern recesses. Their wildness seems well suited to the character of the people who inhabit the country, I determined to leave our animals here,and make the rost of our wayor fopt. The peak appeared so near, that there was no doubt of our returning before night; and a few men were left in charge of the mules^.with our pro- visions and blankets. We took with us nothing but our arms and instru- ments, and, as the day had become warm, the greater part left our coats. Having made an early dinner, we started again. We were soon involved in the most ragged precipices, nearing the central chain very slowly, and rising but little. The first ridge hid a succession of others; and when, with great fatigue and difficulty, we had cUmbed up five hundred feet, it was but |, to make an equal descent on the other side ; all these intervening places ' were filled with small deep lakes, which met the eye in every directioD, descending from one level to another, sometimes under bridges formed by huge fragments of granite, beneath which was heard the roar of the water. These constantly obstructed our path, forcing us to make long detours; frequently obliged to retrace our steps, and frequently falling among the rocks. Maxwell was precipitated toward the face of a precipice, and saved ; ] himself from going over by throwing himself flat on the ground. We clambered on, always expecting, with every ridge that we crossed, to reacii the foot of the peaks, and always disappointed, until about 4 o'clock, wheo, pretty well worn out, we reached the shore of a little lake, in which there was a rocky* island, and from which we obtained the view given in the frontispiece. We remained here a ^ort time to rest, and continued od around the lake, which had in some places a beach of white sand, andio others was bound with rocks, over which the way was difficult and daa- gerous,as the water from innumetable springs made them very slippery. By the time we had reached the further side of the lake, we found our selves all exceedingly fatigued, and, much to the ratistaction of the whole party, we encamped. The "^pot we had chosen was a br^ad flat rock, it some measure protected from the win4^ by the surrounding crag||rand the O H m m i . i i 1 ^'1 f .'» , r^l trunks ot rent, wh below us We had no tree w the cold leaving o the scarie in groat a encanipec From bai this place the day,, v heard wh ed for wit gray coloi saw a con like a spai tains. On goat. We took their ful. At SI 50°. Hert only (hat a encamped, and vomitlj undergone, rarity of th( sprnng up i cold, and o glad to see, preparation On every torrent, whi about one n ice, or rathe guide into t valley, and and where v among whic the peak. , these fields, feet slipped ] hundred feet which he lar received naj bert and Des distance belo ness, accomp able to proce two or three sible, and tali «7 C "<] trunks of fallen pines aflbrded us bright firen. Near by was a foaming tor- rent, which tumbled into the little lake about one hundred and fifty feet below us, and which, by way of distinction, we have called Island lake. We had reached the upper limit of the piney region ; as, above this point, no tree was to be seen, and patches of snow lay every where around us on the cold sides of the rocks. The flora of the region we had traversed since leaving our mules was extremely rich, and, among the clmracteristrc plants, the scarlet (lowers of the dodecut/ieon denlatum every where met the eye in great abundance. A small green ravine, on the edge of which we were encamped, was filled with a profusion of al[>ino plants in brilliant bloom. From barometrical observations, made during our three days' sojourn at this place, its elevation above the Gulf of Mexico is 10,000 feet. Dunng the day,, we had seen no sign of animal life ; but among the rocks here, we heard what was supposed to be the bleat of a young goat, which we search- ed for with hungry activity, and found to proceed from a small animal of a gray color, with short ears and no tail — probably the. Siberian squirrel. We saw a considerable number of them, and, with the exception of a small bird like a sparrow, it is the only inhabitant of this elevated part of the moun- tains. On our return, w6 saw, below this lake, large flocks of the mountain goat. We had nothing to eat to-night. Lajeunesse, with several others, took their guns, and sallied out in search of a goat ; but returned unsuccess- ful. At sunset, the barometer stood at 20.522 ; th»attached thermometer 50°. Here we had the misfortune to break onr thermometer, having now only that attached to the barometer. I was taken ill shortly after we had encamped, and continued so until late in the night, with violent headache and vomiting. This was probably caused by the excessive fatigue I had undergone, and want of food, and perhaps, also, in some measure, by the rarity of the air. The night was cold, as a violent gale from the north had • sprung up at sunset, which entirely blew away the heat of the fires. The cold, and our granite beds, had not been favorable to sleep, and we were glad to see the face of the sun in the morning. Not being delayed by any preparation for breakfast, we set out immediately. On every side as we advanced was heard the roar of waters, and of a • torrent, which we followed up a short distance, until it expanded into a lake about one mile in length. On the northern side of the lake was a bank of ice, or rather of snow covered with a crust of ice. Carson had been our* guide into the mountains, and, agreeably to his advice, we left this little valley, and took to the •jridges. again ; which we I'ound extremely broken, and where we were again involved among precipices. Here were ice fields; among which we were all dispersed, seeking each the best path to ascend the peak. Mr. Preuss attempted to walk along the upper edge of one of these fields, which sloped away at an angle of about twenty degrees; but his feet slipped from under him, and he went plunging down the plane. A iVw hundred feet below, at the bottom, were some fragments of sh?/p rock, on which he landed; and though he turned a couple of somersets, fortunately received no injury beyond a few bruises. Two of the men, Clement Lam- bert and Descoteaux, had been taken ill, and lay down on the rocks a short distance below ; and at this point I was attacked with headache and giddi- ness, accompanied by vomiting, as on the day before. Finding myself un- able to proceed, I sent the barometer over to Mr. Preuss, who was in a gap ^ two or three hundred yards distant, desiring him to reach the peak, if pos- sible, and take an observation there. He foiuid himself unable to pi^oceed liU^ iilii< :?••■;!■<( I m^ ,i'\\'\ !j^'' 'i b / I f I I iih .! * ^ 1 i' II I: [ 174 ] 68 further in that direction, and took an obHorvation, where the barometer stood at 19.401 ; iiUuohed lhcrmonu»t«!r 50", in the gap. Carson, who had gone over to him, succeeded in reaching one of the snowy summits of the main ridge, whence he saw the peak towards which all our efforts had been di- rected, towering eight or ten hundred feet info the air above him. In the mean time, finding myself grow rather worse than better, and doubtful how far my strength would carry me, I sent Basil Lajeunesso, with four men, back to the place; where the nniles had been left. We were now better acquainted witli the topography of the country,and I directed him to bring back with him, if it were in any way po.ssiblo, four or five mules, with provisions and blankets. With rae were Maxwell and Ayer: and alter we had remained nearly an hour on the rock, it became so unpleasantly cold, though the day was bright, that we set out on our return to the camp, at which we all arrived safely, straggling in one after the other. I continued ill during the afternoon, but became better towards sundown, when my recovery was completed by the appearance of Hasil and four men, all mounted. The men who had gone with Ijim had been too m»ich fatigued to return, and were relieved by those in charge of the horses ; but in his powers of endurance Basil resembled more a mountain goat than a man. T ey hrought blankets and provisions, and we enjoyed well our dried meat and a cup of gooil coffee. We rolled ourselves up in our blankets, and, with our feet turned lo a blazing fire, slept soundly until morning. Augvst 15. — It bad been supposed that we had finished with the moun- tains; and the evening before, it had been arranged that Carson should set out at daylight, and return lo breakfast at the Camp of the Mufes, taking with him all but foiir or five men, who were lo stay with me and bring back the mules and instruments. Accordingly, at the break of day they set out. With Mr. Preuss and myself remained Basil Lajeunesse, Clement Lambert, Janisse, and Descoteaux. When we liad secured strength for the day by a hearty breakfast, we covered what remained, which was enough for one meal, wi,ih rocks, in order that it might be safe from any marauding bird ; and, saddling our mules, turned our faces once more towards the peaks, This time we determined to proceed quietly and cautiously, deliberately resolved to accomplish our object if it were within the compass of human • means We were of opinion that a long defile which lay to the left of yes- terday's route would lead us to the foot of the main peak. Our mules had been refreshed by the fine grass in the little ravin9»at the Island camp, and we intended to ride up the defile as far as possible, in order to husband our strength for the main ascent. Though this was a fine passage, still it was a defile of the most rugged mountains known, and we had many a rough and steep slippery place to cross before reaching the end. In this place the sun rarely shone ; snow lay along the border of the small stream which flowed through it, and occasional icy passages made the footing of the mules very insecure, and the rocks and ground were moist with the trickling waters in ^his spring of mighty rivers. Wc soon had the satisfaction to find ourselves riding along the huge wall which forms the central summits of the chain. There at last it rose by our sides, a nearly perpendicular wall of granite, terminating 2,000 to 3,000 feet abqve our heads in a serrated line of broken, jagged cones. We rode on until we came almost immediately below the main peak, which I denominated the Snow peak, as it exhibited more snow to the eye than any of the neighboring summits. Here were three small lakes of a green color, each of perhaps a thousand yards ia Aw <*-, 69 [ n4] (iiiirnett;r, tiii«] apparently very dt'on. These lay in a UimJ ol chasm; and, according to the barometer, we hae lakes, where there was a patch of good grass, and turned them loose to graze. During our rough ride to this place, they hud exhibited a woiuicrful s'lrefo (tednoss. Parts of the defile were filled with angular, sliurp fragments of rock, three or four and eight or ten feet cube ; and among these ihey had worked their way, leaping from one narrow point to am)ther, rarely making a false step, and giving ns no occasion to dismount. Having divested ourselves of every unnecessary encumbrance, we commenced the ascent. This time, like experienced travellers, we did not press ourselves, bni climbed leisurely, sitting dowri so .soon ns we found breath beginning to lail. At intervals we reached places where a munber of springs gushed iroui the rocks, and about 1,800 feet above the lakes came to the snow line. From this point our progress was uninterrupted climbing. Hitherto 1 had worn a ptir of thick moccasins, with soles of pitrjlic/ie; but here I pui on a light thiti pair, which I had brought for the purpose, as now the use of our toes became necessary to a further advance. I availed myself of a sort of comb of the mountain, which si^od against the wall like a buttress, and which the wind and the solar radiation, joined to the steepness of the smooth rock, had kept almost entirely free from snow. Up this I made my way rapidly. Our cautious method of advancing in the outset had spared my strength; and, with the exception of a slight disposition to headache, I felt no remains of yesterday's illness. In a few minutes we reached a point where the buttress was overhanging, and there was no other way of sur- mounting the difficulty thart by passing around one side of it, which was the face of a vertical precipice of several hundred feet. Putting hands and feet m the crevices between the blocks, I succeeded in getting over it, and, when I reached the top, found my companions in a small valley below. Descending to them, we continued climbing, and iti a short time reached the crest. I sprang upon the summit, and another step would have precipitated me into an immense snow field five hundred feet below. To the edge of this field was a sheer icy precipice.; and then, with a gradual fall, the field sloped oif for about a mile, until it struck t% foot of another lower ridge. I stood on a narrow crest, about three feet in width, with an inclination of about 20° N. 51° E. As soon as I had grati- fied the first feelings of curiosity, I descended, and each man ascended in his turn; for I would only allow one at a time to mount the unstable and precarious slab, which it seemed a breath would hurl into the abyss below. We mounted the barometer in the snow of the summit, and, fixing a ramrod ill a crevii ^ unfurled the national flag to wave in the breeze where never flag waved )efore. During our morning's ascent, we had met no sign of animal life, except the small sparrow-like bird already mentioned. A still- ness the most profound and a terrible solitude forced themselves constantly on the mind as the great features of the place. Here, on the summit, where the stillness was absolute, unbroken by any sound, and the solitude com- plete, we thought ourselves beyond the region of animated life; but whiU we were sitting on the rock, a solitary bee (bramus, the. humble bee) cam winging his flight from the eastern valley, and lit on the knee of one of th*' men. ! M r. 1 '. « M -'>r«•Mn*^«•nww«■|•«^^■| [ 174 ] 70 i' '■ I \ » I 1 i ■\'\'- I IM ;pi It was a strange place, the icy rock and the highest peak of the Rockjr mountains, for a lover of warm sunshine and flowers ; and we pleased our- selves with the idea that he was the first of his species to cross the mountain barrier— a solitary pioneer to foretell the advance of civilization. I believe that a moment's thought would have made us let him continue his way un- harmed ; but we carried out the law of this country, where all animated na- ture seems at war; and. seizing him immediately, put hinl in at least a fit place — in the leaves of a large book, among the flowers we had collected on our way. The barometer stood at 18.293, the attached thermometer at 44°; giving for the elevation of this summit IS,-*)?© feet above the Gulf of Mexico, which may be called the highest flight of the bee. It is certainly the highest kt^own flight of that insect. From the description given by Mackenzie of the mountains where he crossed them, with that of a French officer still farther to the north, and Colonel Long's measurements to the south, joined to the opinion of the oldest traders of the country, it is pre- sumed that this is the highest peak of the Rocky mountains. The day was sunny and bright, but a slight shining mist hung over the lowev plains, which interfered with our view of the surrounding country. On one side we overlooked innur- ■ rable lakes and streams, the spring of the Colorado of 'the Gulf of California ; and on the oth^r was the Wind river valley, where were the heads of the Velio wstone branch of the Missouri ; far to the north, we just could discover the snowy heads -^f the TYois Tetons, where were the sources of the Missouri and Columbia rivers; and at the southern ex- tremity of the ridge, the peaks were plainly visible, among wHich»were some of the ssprings of the Nebraska or Platte river. Around us, the whole scene had one main striking feature, which was that of terrible convulsion. Parallel to its length, the tidge was split into chasms and fissures ; between which rose the thin lofty walls, terminated with slender minarets &nd columns, which is correctly represented in the view from the camp on Island lake. According to the barometer, the little crest of the wall on which we stood was three thousand five hundred and seventy feet above that place, and two thousand seven hundred and eighty above the little lakes at the bottom, immediately at our feet. Our camp at the Two Hills (an astro- nomical station) bore south 3° etfst, which, wit!i a bearing afterward ob- Jcined from a fixed position, enabled us to locate tlie peak. The bearing of the Trots Tetons was north 50° west, and the direction of the central ridge of the Wind river mountains south 39° east. The summit rock was gneiss, succeeded by sienitic gneiss. Sienite and feldspar succeeded in our descent to the snow line, where we found a feldspathic granite. I had remarked that the noise produced by the explosion of our pistols had the usual degree of loudness, but was not in the least prolonged, expiring al- most instantaneously, Irving now made what observations our means afforded, we proceeded to descend. We had accomplished an object of laudable atnbition, and beyond the strict order of our instructions. We had climbed the loftiest peak of the Rocky mountains, and looked down upon the snow a thousand feet below, and, standing where never human foot had stood before, felt the exultation of first explorers. It was about 2 o'clock when wo left the summit ; and when we reached the bottom, the siin had already sunk beliind the wall, and the day was drawing to a close. It would have been pleasant to have lin;^ered here' and on the summit longer; but we hurried aWay as rapidly as the ground would permit , for it was an o r\ 2 -H > r O I > H X m Z o < m 3 2 O c 2 Z i^ ^--^ : of the Rocky e pleased our- the mountain )n. I believe le his way un- \ animated na- il at least a fit had collected lermometer at e the Gulf of It is certainly tion given by it of a French iments to the itry, it is pre- The day was lowev plains, On one side le Co'orado of valley, whore r to the north, , where were southern ex- which»were us, the whole fi convulsion, es; between ninarets and he camp on irall on which 7e that place, lakes at the Us (an astro- 'terward ob- The bearing the central nit rock was lucceeded in ipite. I had tols had the expiring al- ^ our means an object of 3tions. We ■ )oked down ever human vas about 2 toin, the sun a close. It imit longer; >r it was an c !( [I fP ''■I 1 * * \ 'iv' object to r the next h We rea< inii V hich orange gr< grant air ; turbed. 1 the utigut of rejoiiiin cold, slept August our way cliffs. At in a few n or a thous of the coi rough as ii A concour destitute o all kept gr brilliant fi<. nftcent see selves vivi we reache< tempted i\ found a pi furnished i on, and re? well. Not and the fi our anima homeward Two BiUte In the c( remedy. I gelman's b done its pa tfiugust morning, n. filled witii in bloom, r of the plai where the Water, hal 42° 24' 32 In the ci halt on the around the restored to kind of tei ''JllgU.Sf, ' independe i*^-^ 71 [ 174] object to regain our party as soon as possible, not knowing what accident the next hour might bring forth. We reached our deposite of provisions at nightfall. Here was not the inn V hich awaits the tired traveller on his return from Mont Blanc, or the orange groves of South America, with their refreshing juices and soft fra- grant air ; but we found our little cache of dried .neat and coffee undis- turbed. Though the moon was bright, the road was full of preci;jices, and the i'dtigue of the day had been great. We therefore abandoned the idea of rejoining our friends, and lay down on the rock, and, in spito of the cold, slept soundly. August 16. — We left our encampment with the daylight. We saw on our way Irfrge flocks of the mountain goat looking down on us from the cliffs. At the crack of a rifle, they would bound off among the rocks, and in a few minutes make their appearance on some lofty peak, some hundred or a thousand feel above. It is needless to attempt any further description of the country ; the portion over which we travelled this morning was rough as imagination could picture it, and to us seemed equally beautiful. A concourse of lakes and rushing waters, mountains of rocks naked and destitute of vegetable earth, dells and ravines of he most exquisite beauty, all kept green and fresh by the great moisture in the air, and sown with brilliant flowers, and every where thrown around all the glory of most mag- nftcent scenes: these constitute the features ofnhe place, and impress them- selves vividly on the mind of the traveller. It was not until 11 o'clock that we reached the place where our animals had been left, when we first at- tempted the mountains on foot. Near one of the still burning fires we found a piece of meat, which our friends had thrown away, and which furnished us a mouthful — a very scanty breakfast. We continued directly on, and reached our camp on the mountain lake at dusk, well. Nothing had occurred to interrupt the quiet since and the fine grass and good cool water had done much to re-establish our animals. All heard with great delight the order to turn our faces homeward; and toward sundown of the 17th, we encamped again at the Two Bultes. • In the course of this afternoon's march, the barometer was broken past remedy. I regretted it, as I was desirous to compare it again with Dr ~ gehnan's barometers at St. Louis, to which mine were referred ; but it done its part we , and my objects were mainly fulfilled. August 19. — We left our camp on Little Sandy river about 7 in the morning, and traversed the same sandy, undulating country. The air was filled witii the turpentine scent of the various artemiiiasy which are now in bloom, and, numerous as they are, give much gayety tc the landscape of the plains. At 10 o'clock, we stood exactly on the divide in the pass, where the wagon road crosses, and, descending immediately upon the Sweet Water, halted to '«ake a meridian observation of the sun. The latitude was 42° 24' 32". In the course of the afternoon we .saw buffalo again, and at mr avf'ening halt on the Sweet Wat(;r the ro-.sted ribs We .'bund all our departure, 1 again around the fires ; and, with thori, good humor, and made their appearance laughter, and song, were restored to the camp, Our coiiee had b'^en expended, hut we now made a kind of tea from the riots of the wild clierry iree. t^vgu.Hl 23. — Yecienlay evening we reached our encampment at Rock ' hidependence, wh re I took sotne astronomical ohservations. Here, not ' f 1.1 [ 174 ] 72 ' ',; nnmindUil of the custom of early travellers and e'^^loror? in our country, J engraved on this rock of the Far West a symbol of th?) Uhristian faitji. Ainonj^ the thickly inscribed nau es, I made on tuc '».c.rd [ a lu the in. presi-^u*) of a large cro-is, which I covered with a black prt f -.iritij'; of India rubbo!, '/.'ll calculated to resist the iniluence of wind and "ai i. '* stands an)iver a ndgc wliich borders or constitutes the river hills of the Platt^', conMsiing of Inige lilocks, sixty or eighty feet cube, of decomposing granite. The cement which united them was proba- bly o/ easier decomposition, and iias disapp«iured and left them isolate, and separated by small spaces. Numerous horns of the mountain goat were lying among ihe rocks ; uhd in th^ ravine." were cedars, wiiose trunks were of extraordinary size. From this r>dge we descended to a tunall open plain at the mouth of the Sweet Water, which ruslied with a rapid current into the Platte, here flowing along i ■ Sroi^dl, tranquil, and apparently deep ftrearn., which seemeS, from it . . oid appearance, to be considerably woilen. I obtained here some .wironouiiciil obsetvalions, and the after- iiooa was spent in getting our boat ready for navigation the next day. Jlugust 24. — We started before sunrise, intending to breakfast at Goat island. I had directed tiie land party, in charge of Bernier, to proceed to this place, wher-^ ll.ey were to remain, should they find no note to apprize them of our having passed. In the event of receiving this information, they were to continue their route, passing by certain places which had been designated. Mr. Preuss accompanied n«e, and with us were five of my best men, viz: C. Lambert IJasil Lajenne^se, IIonor6 Ayot, Benoist, and* Descoteaux. Here appeared no scarcity of water, and we took on board, with various instiumenis and baggage, provisions lor ten or twelve days. We paddled down the river rapidly, for our little craft was light as a duck on t'i<. water; and the sun had been sometime risen, when we heard before as a hollow roar, -A'hich we supj)osed to be that of a fall, of which we had heard a vague rumo , but whose exaci localiiy n^s otie had been able to de- scribe to us. Wt; were approachinj.'^ a rid^c, through which the river pusses ■'\ ; 73 [ 174 1 hv a p'acc called •• canon,*' (pronounced kanyon,) a S;ianish word,signify- 1 iy '.piece of artillery, the barrel of a gun. or any kind of tube ; ar^d which, in this country, has been adopted to d-i^scr-be (i>u prrjage of a river between perpendicular rocks of jo;reai height, which frequei;i)y appioach each other so closely "V^rhead as lo form a kind of tunnel over the stream, which foams along below, half choked up by fallen fragments. Between the mouth of the Sweet Water and Goat island, there is probably a fall of 300 feet, and that was principally made in the canons before us ; as, with- out them, the water was comparatively smooth. As we neared the ridge, the river made a sudden turn, and swept squarely down against one "of the walls of the caiion with a great velocity, and so steep a descent, that it had, to the eye, the j^ppearance of an inclined plane. When we launched into this, the men jumped overboard, to chock the velocity of the boat, but were soon in wafer Up to their necks, and our boat, ran on ; but we succeeded in bringing her to a small point of rocks on the right, at the mouth of the cafion. Here was a kind of elevated sand beach, not many yards square, backed by the rocks, and around the point the river swept at a right angle. Trunks of trees deposited on jutting points 20 or 3U fect above, and other . marks, showed that the water L^re frequently rose to a considerable height. The ridge was of the same decomposing granite already mentioned, and the water had worked the surface, in many places, into a wa\y surface of ridges and holes. We ascended the rocks to reconnoitre ihe ground, and from the summit the passage appeared to be a continued cataract foaming over many obstructions, and broken by a number of small falls. We saw nowhere a fall answering to that which had been described to us as having 20 or 25 feet ; but still concluded this to be the place in question, as, in the season of floods, the rush of the river against the wall would produce a great rise, and the waters, reflected squarely off", would descend through the passage in a sheet of foam, having every appearance of a large fall. Eigh- teen years previous to this time, as I have subsequently learned from him- self, Mr. Fitzpatrick, somewhere above on this river, had embarked with a valuable cargo of beaver. Unacquainted with the stream, which he be- lieved would conduct him safely to the Missouri, he came unexpectedly mto this canon, where he was wrecked, with the total loss of his furs. ^It v ould have been a work of gr^at time and labor to pack o|^r baggage across the ridge, and I determined to run the canon. We all again embarked, and at' first attempted to check the way of the boat ; but the water swept througli with so much violence that we narrowly escaped being swamped, and were obliged to let her go in the full force of the current, and trust to the skill of the boatmen. The dangerous places in this canon were where huge rocks had fallen from above, and hemmed in the already narrow pass of the river to an open space of Uiree or four and five feet. These obstructions raised the water considerably above, which was sometimes precipitated over in a fall ; and at other places, where this dam was too high, rushed through the contracted opening with tremendous violence. Had our boat been made of wood, in passing the narrows she would have been staved ; but her alasticity preserved her unhurt from every shock, and she seemed fairly to leap over the falls. hi this way we passed three cataracts in succession, wherv?, perhaps 100 feet of smootli water intervened ; and. finally, witfi a shout of pfleasure at our mcr^ „ ^ issued from our tunnel into the open day beyond. We were so de(i(;ljtcd with the pertormance dt our boat, and so confident in her r.! i'^' , ■'I ' V , ai a. I I 174 ] 74 ^ ' powers, that we would nrti have hesitated to leap a fall of ten feet with her. We put to shore foi breakfast at some willows on the right bank, immedi- axely below the mouth of the caHoti ; for it was i\o\v 8 o'clock, and we had been working since daylight, and were all wet, fatigued, and hungry. While the men were ^ireparing breakfast, I went out to reconnoitre. The view was very limited. Thn course of the river was smooth, so far as I could see; on both Mdes were broken hills ; and but a mile or two below was another high ridge. The rock at the mouth of the cafion was still th« decomposing granite, with great quantities of mica, which made a very glittering sund. We re-embarked at 9 o'clock, and in about twenty minutes reached the next canon. Landing on a rocky shore at its commencenfent, we ascended the ridge to reconnoitre. Portage'was out of the question. So far as we could see, tlie jaggod rocks pointed out the course of the caflon, on a wind- ing line of seven or eight miles. It was simply a narrow, dark chasm in the rock ; and here the perpendicular faces were much higher than in the .pfevipus pass, being at this end two to three hundred, and further down, as we afterwards ascertained, five hundred feet in vertical height. Our pre- vious success had made us bold, and we determined again to run the cafion. Every thing was secured as firmly as possible ; and having divested our- selves of the greater part of our clothing, we pushed into the stream. To savre our chronometer from accident, Mr. Preuss took it, and attem^ed to proceed along the shore on the masses of rock, which in places were piled up on either side ; but, after he had walked about five minutes, every thing like shore disappeared, and the vertical wall came squarely down into the water. He therefore waited until we came up An ugly pass lay before us, We had made fast to the stern of the boat a strong rope about fifty feet longi and three (/ the men clambered alo'ng aniong the rocks, and with this rope \e her oown slowly through the i^ass. In several places high rocks lay scat- tered .il)OUt iii the channel : and in the narrows it required all our strength and skil! to avoid staving the boat on the sharp points. In one of these, the boat pioved a little too broad, and stuck fast for an instant, while the water flew over us; fortunately, it was but for an instant, as our united strength forced her immediately through. The water swept overboard only a sextant and a pair tf saddlet^ags. I caught the sextant as it passed by me ; but the paddlebags became the prey of the whirlpools. We reached the place where Mr. Freiiss was standing, took him on board, and, with the aid of the boat. put the men with the rope on the succeeding pile of rocks. We found this passage vaixch worse than the previous one, and our position was rather a bad one. To go back, wasr impossible ; before us, the cataract was a sheet of foam ; ai'd shut up in the chasm by the rocks, which, in some places, seemed aU:MOst to t.'ioct overhead, the roar of the wafer was deafening. We pushed off ag;5 ;;; ; bot, after tiiaking a little distance, the force of the current became too great f v tie men on shore, and two of them let go the rope. Lajeunesse the third inan nung on, and was jerked headforemost into the river from a I rock about twelve feet high ; and down the boat shot like an arrow, Basil foUowin^^ us in iho rapid current, and exerting all his strength to keep m mid chauiel — his head only seen occasionally like a black spot in the white foam. How far we went, I do not exactly know ; but we succeeded in turn- ing the boat into an eddy below. " 'Cr^ 7)''ej(," said Basil Lujeiinessc.n^ | he afrived immediately after us, ^^J&crois hicn qttefai na^e un demi mile He had owed his life to his skill as a swimmer ; an J I determined to fal''-'| ' I ■ '' '^ ---:. 75 [ 174] •h him and the two others 6ti board, and trust to skill and fortune to reach the other end in safely. We placed ourselves on our knees, with the short paddles in our hdnds, the most tkilful boatman being at the bow ; and again we commenced our rapid descent. We cleared rock after rock, and shot past fall after fall, our little boat seeming to play with the cntaract. We became flushed with success, and familiar with the danger ; and, yield- ing to the e/citement of the occasion, broke forth together into a Canadian boat song. Singing, or rather shouting, we dashed along ; and were, I believe, in the midst of the chorus, when the boat struck a concealed rock immediately at the foot of a fall, which whirled her over in an instant. Three of my men cortld not swim, and my first feeling was to assist them, and save some of our effects; but a sharp concussion or two convinced me that I had not yet saved myself. A few strokes brought me into an eddy, and I landed on a pile of rocks on the left side. Looking around, I saw that Mr. Preuss had gained the shore on the same side, aboiU twenty yards below ; and a little climbing and swimming soon brought him to my side. On the opposite side, against the wall, lay the boat bottom up ; and Lambert was in the act of saving Descoteaux, whom he had grasped by the hair, and who could not swim ; ^^ Lache pas'," said he, as I afterward learned, '' lac/ie pas, cher fr^re.." " Crains pas," was the reply, " .Te m'«n vais mourir avant que de ie lacker." Such was the reply of courage and generosity in this danger. For a hundred yards below, the current was cov- ered with floating books and boxes, bales of blankets, and scattered articles of clothing; and so strong and boiling was the stream, that even our heavy instruments, which were all in cases, kept on the surface, and the sextant, circle, and the long black box of the telescope, were in view at once. For a moment, I felt somewhat disheartened. All our books — almost every record of the journey — our journals and registers of astronomical and bar- ometrical observations — had been lost in a moment. But it was no time to indulge in regrets; and I immediately set about endeavoring to save some- thing from the wreck. Making ourselves understood as well as possible by signs, (for nothing could be heard in the roar of waters,) we commenced our operations. Of every thing on board, the only article that had been saved was my double barrelled gun, which Descoteaux had caught, and clung to withdrowning tenacity. The men continued down the river on the left bank. Mr. Preuss and myself descended on the side we were on ; and Lajeunesse, with a paddle in his hand, jumped on the boat alone, and continued down the canon. She was now light, and cleared every bad place with much less difficulty. In a short time, he was joined by Lambert ; ;:nd the search was continued for about a mile and a half, which was as far as the boat could proceed in the pass. Here the walls were about five hundred feet high, and the 1/agmentsof rocks from above had choked the riverinto a hollow pass, but one or two feet above the surface. Through this and the interstices of the rock, the wa- ter found its way. Favored beyond our expectations, all of our regis ers had been recovered, with the exception of one of my journals, which contained the notes and incidents of travel, and topographical descriptions, a number of scattered astronomical observations, principally meridian altitudes of the sun, and our barometrical register west of Laramie. Fortuna tely, our other j journals contained duplicates of the most important barometrical observa- tions which had been taken in the rnoinitains. These, with a few scaltt^reJ 'iotes, wreall t:;ai had been ^reserved of our niclforologtcal obset vatio.s. i J I , i M S!3 l/j! i u m$. [ 174] 76 < I . ^ u w In ndditioti to these, we saved the circle; and these, with a few blankcis, constituted every thing that had been rescued from the waters. The day was runtiing rapidly away, and it was necessary to reach Goal island, whither the party had preceded us, before night. In this uncertain country, the traveller is so much in the power of chance, that we became somewhat uiieasy in r»'garJ to them. Should any thing have occurred, in the brief interval of our separation, to prevent our rejoining tham, our situ- ation would be rather a desperate one. We had not a morsel of provisions— our arms and ammunition were gone — and we were entirely at the mercy of any strangling party of savages, and not a little in danger of starvation. We thoref:tre set out at once in two parties. • Mr. Preuss and myself on the left, and the men on the opposite side of the river. Climbing out of the cafion, we found ourselves in a very broken country, where we were not yet able to recognise atjy locality. In the course, of our descent through .the cafion, the rock, which at the upper end was of the decomposing granite, changed into a varied sandstone formation. The hills and points of the ridges were covered with fragments of a yellow sandstone, of which the strata were sometimes displayed in the broken ravines which interrupted our course, jind made our walk -extremely fatiguing. At one point of the cailon the red argillaceous sandstone rose in a wall of five hundred feet, surmounted by a stratum of white sandstone ; and in an opposite ravine a column of red sandstone rose, in form like a steeple, about one hundred and fifty feet high. The scenery was extremely picturesque, and, notwithstand- ing our forlorn condition,*we were frequently obliged to stop and admire it. Our progress was not very rapid. We had emerged from the water half naked, and, on arriving at the top of the precipice, I found myself with only one moccasin. The fragments of rock made walking painful, and I was fre- quently obliged to stop and pull out the thorns of the cactus, here the pre- vailing plant, and with which a few minutes' walk covered the bottom of | my feet. From this ridge the river emerged into a smiling prairie, and, de- scending to the bank for water, we were joined by Benoist. The rest of the party were out of sight, having taken a more inland route. We crossed Ihe river repeatedly — sometimes able to ford it, and jometiraes swimming- oJ imbed over the ridges of two more canons, and towards evening reached the cut, which we here named the Hot Spring gate. On our previous visit in July, we had not entered this pass, reserving it for our descent in the boat ; and when we entered it this evening, Mr. Preuss was a few hmidred feet in advance. Heated with the long march, he came suddenly upon a fine bold spring gushing from the rock, about ten feet above the river. Eager to enjoy the crystal water, he threw himself down for a hasty draught, and took a mouthful of water almost boiling hot. He said nothing to Be- noist, who laid himself down to drink ; but the steam from the water arrest- ed his eagerness, and he escaped the hot draught. We had no thermometer to ascertain the temperature, but I could hold my hand in the water just loiiJ enough to count two seconds. There are eight or ten of these springs, dis charging themselves by streame large enough to be called runs. A loud hol- low noise was heard from the rock, which I supposed to be produced by the fall of the water. Tlie strata immediately where they issue is a fine white and calcareous sandstone, covered with an incrustation of common salt. Leav- ing this Thermopylffi of the west, in a short walk we reached tlie red ridge which has been described as lying just above Goat Island. Ascending thi*'' we found some fresh tracks and a button, which showed that the other men 111 77 C »74] had already arrived. A shout from the man who first reached the top of tho ridge, responded to frum below, informed us that our friends were all on the island ; and we were soon among them. We found some pieces of buffalo standing around (he fire for us, and managed to get some dry clothes among the people. A sudden storm of rain drove us into the best shelter we could find, where we slept soundly, after one of the most fatiguing days I hava ever expeiienced. August 25 — Early this morning Lajeunesse was sent to the wreck for the articles which had been saved, and about noon we left the island. The mare which we had left here in July had much improved in condition, and she served us well again for some time, but was finally abandoned at a subsequent part of the journey. At 10 in the morning of the 26th we reached Cache camp, where we found every thing undisturbed. We disin- terred our deposite, arranged our carts which had been left here on the way out, and, travelling a few miles in the afternoon, encamped for the night at the ford of the Platle. August 27. — At midday we hailed at the place where we had taken din- ner on the 27th of July. The country which, when we passed up, looked as if tho hard winter frosts had passed over it, had now assumed a new face, so much of vernal freshness had been given to it by the late rains. The Platte was exceedingly low — a mere line of water among the sand- bars. We reached Laramie fort on the last day of August, after an ab- sence of forty-two days, and had the pier ire to find our friends all well. The fortieth day had been fixed for our return ; and the quick eyes of the Indians, who were on the lookout for us, discovered our flag as we wound among the hills. The fort sainted us with repeated discharges of its single piece, which we returned with scattered volleys of our small arms* and felt the joy of a home reception in getting back to this remote station, which seemed so far off as we went out. On the morning of tBe 3d of September we bade adieu to our kind friends at the fort, and contimied our homeward journey down the Platte, which was glorious with the autumnal splendor of innumerable flowers in full and brilliant bloom. On the warm sands, among the helianthi, one of the characteristic plants, we saw "Treat numbers of rattlesnakes, of which five or six were killed in the morning's ride. We occupied ourselves in im- pjoving our previous survey of the river ; and, as the weather was fine, astronomical observations were generally made at night and at noon. We halted for a short time on the afternoon of the 5th with a village of Sioux Indians, some of whose chiefs we had met at Laramie. The water in the Platte was extremely low ; in many places, the large expanse of sandi;, with some occasional stunted trees on the banks, gave it the air of theseacoast; the bed of the river being merely a succession of sandbars, among which the channel was divided into rivulets a few inches deep. We crossed a id recrossed with our carts repeatedly and at our pleas re ; and, whenever an obstruction barred our way, in the shape of precipitous Wufis that came down upon the river, we \urned directly into it, and made our way along the srJfndy bed, with no other inconvenience than the fre- quent quicksands, which greatly fatigued our animals. Disinterring on the way the cache which had been made by our party when they ascended the river, we reached without accident, on the evening of the 12th of Septem- ber, our old encampment of the 2d of July, at th^ junction of the forks. Our cache of the barrel of pork was found undisturbed, and proved a sea- :i' ' \ ' i }, i ■ 1 '1 I 1 i i 1 (J I i f it k l [ 174 ] 78 l> V'.^: -] '■ sonable addition to our stock of provisiontt. At this place I had detorinined to make another attempt to desoeud the Platte by water, and accordingly spent two days in the construction of a bull boat. Men were sent out on the evening of our arrival, the necessary number of bulls killed, and their skins brought to the camp. Four of the best of them were strongly sewed together with butfalo sinew, and stretched over a basket frame of willow, The seauis were tllen covered with ashes and tallow, and the boat left ox. posed to the sun for the greater part of one day, which was sufficient to dry and contract the skin, and miike the MChole work solid and strong. It had a roiuided bow, was eight feet long and tlvo broad, and drew with four men about four inches water. On the ujorning of the 15th wo em- barkt.'d in our hide boat, Mr. Preuss and myself, with two men. We dragged her over the sands for three or four miles, and then left ner on a bar, and abandoned entirely all further attempts to navigate this rivci. The names given by the Indians are always remarkably appropriate; and cer- tainly none was ever more so than that which they have given to this stream — " the Nebraska, or Shallow river." Walking steadily the reinaiii- der of the day, a little before dark we overtook our people at their even- ing camp, about twenty-one miles below the junctiou. The next morning we crossed the Platte, and continued our way down the river bottom on the left bank, where we found an excellent plainly beaten road. On the I8th we reached Grand island, which is fifty-two miles long, with an average breadth of one mile and three-quarU:rs. It has on it some small eminences, and is sulficiently elevated to be secure from the annual floods of the river. As has been already remarked, it is well timbered, with an excellent soil, and recommends its'ilf to notice as the best point for a mili- tary position on the Lower Platte. Op thtf 22d we arrived at the village of the Grand Pawnees, on the right bank of the river, about thirty miles above the mouth of the Loup fork. They were gathering in their corn, and we obtained from them a very wel- come supply of vegetables. • The morning of the 24th we reached the Loup fork of the Platte. At the place where we forded it, this stream was io^tr hundred and thirty ya?ds broad, with a swift current of clear water ; in this respect, differing from the Platte, which has a yellow muddy color, derived fiom the lime- stone and marl formation, of which we have previously spoken. The ford was diflicuU, as the water was so deep that it cenn into the body of the carts, and we reached the opposite bank after repeated attempts, ascending and descending the bed of the river in order to avail ourselves o^ the bars. We encamped on the left bank of the fork, in the point of land at its junc- tion with the Platte. During the two days that we remained here for astronomical observations, the bad weather permitted us to obtain but one good observation for the latitude — a meridian altitude of .the sun, which gave for the latitude of the mouth of the Loup fork, 41° 22' 11". Five or six days previously, I had sent forward C. Lambert, with two men. 10 Bellevue, with directions to ask from Mr. P. Sarpy the gentleman in charge of the American Company's establishment at that place, the aid of his carpen- ters in constructing a boat, in which I proposed to descend (he Missouri. On the afternoon of the 27th we met one of the men, who had been despatched by Mr. Sarpy with a welcome supply of provisions and a very kind note, which gave us the very gratifying intelligence that our boat was in rapid progress. On the evening of the 30th we encamped in an almost impenc- 79 [ 174] trable undergrowth on the left bank of the Plcitte,iti the point of land at its confluence with the Missouri — three hundred and fifteen miles, according to our reckoning, from the junction of the forks, and five hundred and twenty from Fort Laramie. From the junction we had found the bed of the Platte occupied with nu- merous islands, many of them. very large, and all well limbered ; possess- ing, as well as the bottom lands of ihe river, a very excellent soil. With theexceptiotj of some scattered groves on the banks, (ho bottoms are gen- erally without tmiber. A portion of these consist of low grounds, covered with a profusion of fine grasses, and are probaibly inundated in the spring; the remaining part is high river prairie, entirely beyotal the inHuence of the floods. The breadth of the river is usually three-quarters of a mile, except where it is enlarged by islarids. That portion of its course which IS occupied by Grand island has an average breadtti, from shore to shore, of two and a half miles. The breadth of the valley, with the various ac- cidents of ground — springs, timber, and whatever I have thought interest- ing to travellers and settlers — yon will find indicated on the larger map which accompanies this report. " October 1. — I rose this morning long before daylight, and heard with a leeling of pleasure the tinkling of cow bells at tjif settlements on the op- po iie side of the Missouri. Early in the day we reached Mr. Sarpy's residence; and, in the security and comtert of his hospitable mansion, felt the pleasure of being again within the pale of civilization. We found our boat on the stocks ; a few days sutficed to complete her; and, in the af- ternoon of the 4th, we embarked on the Missouri. All our equipage — horses, carts, and the materiel of the camp — had been sold at public auc- tion at Bellevue. The strength of my party enabled me to man the boat with ten oars, relieved every hour; and we descended rapidly. Earty on 'the ni ruing of t|ie 10th, wc haJted to make some astronomical observa- tions at the mouth of the Kansas, exactly four months since we had left the trading post of Mr. Cyprian Chouteau, on the -same river, ten miles above. On our descent to this place, we had employed ourselves in sur- veying and sketching the Missouri, making astronomical observations reg- ularly at nig^hfand at midday, whenever the weather permitted. These operations on the iiver were continued until our arrival at the city of St. Louis, Missouri, on the 17th; and will be found, imbodied with other re- mits, on the map and in the appendices which accompany this report. At St. Louis, the^salo of our remaining effects was nude; and, leaving that city by steamboat on the 18§i, I had the honor to report to you at the city of Washuigton on tffe 29lh of October. Very respectfully, sir, your obedient servant, J. C. FREMONT, 2rf Lieut. Corps of Topographical Engineers. 'I y ;h J •Ju *>. V^.'^oS^ V] l '^; tl t ii i i s i? i »! 1. ! t ,1- ! i' ■ )S i :> lUi) I 'il Ckmatis Vtrginiam Ranuiuului) sceleratt R, eymbalaria, (Pu: AqwUgia camka, Adotarubra, (Bigel Thalictrum Cornuti T, megaearpunif n. Mtnitpermum Cana j^ Btrberis aquifoUum, Argentone Mexieana / Noilurtium palustre, Erynmum cheiranthc E. asperum, (Nutt.) Pachypodium, (Theli Platte. September Vmcaria didymocarpi July 30. irayo, n. sp. Wind Lepidium ruderak, (i Ckome integrifolia, (' July 2, August 21. Polanisia trachysperm Polygak alba, (Nutt. I Pirnassia fimbriata, ( I ATOutrna congesta, (N l^leneDrummondil, ( \S-aeaults, (Linn.) "^ CATALOGUE OF PLANTS. hi ^)lV^;^"•^^' Class I.— EXOGENOUS PLANTS. RANUNCULACEiE. Cltmatii Virginiana, (Linn. ) Valley of the Platte. June, July. Sanunculus seekratus, (Linn.) Valley of the Sweet Water river. August 18-20. R. cymbalaria, (Pyxiah.) Upper Platte. July 31, August. Aqttikgia coeruka, (Ton.) Wind river mountains. August 18-16. Aetcea rubra, (Bigel) Upper Platte. August 36-31. Thalidmm Cornutt, (Liiy^.) Platte. T, megaearpum, n. sp. Upper Platte. Auij^ust 26-31. iMiBNtSPERMACE.L;li)lli'>, (li Oxylriipis Liiiiibr 30, July 2. 0. riattmuls, (Ni ¥hvcu aitrafriiltiHi ]'. di-j^iiHK, (HoiiK }'. {(hophncu) d!; p. lovii'ifi'liu, (^" Jinilrophytn um it Lupimis ieuco/j/ii/ 4-81. L orntitus, (T)oug Buptisia kucantha T.'iermopsls iitontui C ssiuehainwciisla Ikhraukiu uncinali L.rliiigtoniu brack \ CiTusua Virgin iant drcocarpus purvij I'jrsinu tridenluta, Ccum Virginlanuii Slbbaldla procumbel Tuknillla grucilin, p. divcrsi folia, (Lc P. sericea, [i glaora P.fruticosa, (Liiui P. amerina, (Linn P. arguta, (Pursh. August 38. hubus slrigosu», (J Ainclanchicr divers i^ Itosablanda, (Ait.) Pfoiioloaa, (Nutt. Ep'ilobiuin colijfutu. E. spicatum, (Lam (Edulheru albicau/it 0^. Miasourientii, i ffi. trichocalyx, (N ffi. serrulafa, (Nut (E. rhombibetula, ( (E. biennis, (Linn. (E. {Taraxia) Nut (E. sptciosa, (Nutt (E. Drummondii, { Gaura coccinea, (N Jmie 26, July 4. > Fort Lahudie. e Platte. JuDe 69 [ 174] Ji>trn!^nlun f^rartHs, (ISult.) Forks of tlio I'laltf. July 8. A. vtollnniinus, (TuTT.) Valliy .Z the I'liitlp. .Iiiin! ii). A. hyimgtoHis, (Linn.) Hwci-t Wntcr of the I'lnttci. AuniiHt ft. Ox'jiropis Lniiibcrfii, (Pur^h ) T3i^ Uluc river of ihe Khiisuk t<> Ihf forks of tlu' Platte. .Iiine 20, July 'J. 0. /'/a/Zaw/s, (Null ') (no (lowers ) (Jont island of llir Upper Platte. July 31. Phaca (titraffiillna, (T)C.) Ili^lu-st suiniiiits of fhr Vk'ind river inountuin. August 15. p. dtu;iuiii, (Kook.) vur. ' (iout iHJuirl of tin- Ippcr Pliitte. July :M. J'. {Oruphtteu) d'lfj^iluia, n. s|). Little Hujidy livcr. Auijust 8. p. longifolia, (Nutt.) (leuvnn only.) Wind river inountaiuH. Aunu^t I'i-17. Jlinlrophylit um ilanu, (Nutt.; Lurumio river to the Sweet Water. July 14, Auf»u4 5. LupiiKis kuaipltylluy, (I.iiidl ) Wiiul ri\ei mountiiins, and Sweet Wnter of the Platte. Augxmt 4-21. L urnutus, (Uougl.) L. leucopsid, (Agurdli.) With the precediui,' Baptisia kucanlhii, (Torr. and Or.) Kunsii.s river. T.'urinopsis iiionturw, (Nutt.) 8weel Water river. .\uq;ut. July 14. OROSeULAOB^. Ribea eermm, (LinJI.) Swojit Water of the Platte. Augutit 2-4. R. laeuttre, (Poir.) With Ui« pt?ci?4wg. li lcaY«» tlccply loM- R. echinftfum, (Pougl.) Por- haps a distinct xporiog. R. irrignum, (Doui^l.) With the preceding- CACTAOE.fi. Opunlia Miaaonri'ensit, (DC.) Fork* of the Plaftc. July 2. * CRASSULACB^. Sedum rhoJio/a, (DC.) On h Inkc in Wind river mountains. August 12-17. UMBELLIFER.fi. Heracleum lanatum, (Michx. ') Leaves only. The leaves are more glabrovis than in the ordinary form of the plant. Alpine region of the Wind river mountains. Folytcenia NuttalUi, (DC. ) On the Kansas. Jime 20. Sium? ineisum, n. sp. Stemsulcate; segments of the leaves distant, deeply incised or pinnatiffed; the lower teeth or diirisions oAea elongutod «nd linear. North fork of the Platte. July 12. Edosmia Oardineri, (Torr. andGr.) Without fruit. Cieuta maculuta, (Liiui.) Lower PJattc. Mutenium te/iuifolium, (Nutt.) Alpine region of the Wind river mpuntoins. CORNACEjE. CitrnuB atotfinifera, (Michx.) On a lake in the Wind river mountains, .\ugust 12-17. C. circinata, (L'Her.) On the Platte. CAPRIFOLL\CE.E. Sympfioriearpua oecidentalia, (R. Brown.) North fork of the Platte. July 10, August 81. 5. vulgaris, (Michx) Defiles of the Wind river mountains. August 18-14. RUBL\CE.^. OttUttm borenU, (Linn.) Upper part of the North fork of the Platte. August 12-31. COMPOSITE. rernontafaaeiculata, (yiivhx.) On the Platte. Liatria acarwan, (Willd.) Lower part of the Platte. September 27. L. vpieata, (Willd.) North fork of the Platte. September 4. L. aquarrosa, iv. intermedia, (DC.) A small form of the plant. On the Platte. L. punctata, (Hook.) Black hills of the Platte. August 29. Brickellia grandijlorn, (Nutt.) North fork of the Platte. Aater integrlfoliua, (Nutt. ) Base of the Wind river mountains. A. adscendem, (Lindl.) Wind river mountiins. Var. Fremontii, with the preceding. The highest summits to the limits of perpetual snow, .\ugust 16. A. lavia, (Linn.) North fork of the Platte. A. Novi-Belgii, (Linn.) Sweet Water of the Platte. August 22. A. cordlfoliua, (Linn.) Lower Platte. A. muUiJlorua, (i (Torr. and Gr.) Upper Platte, &c. A.fakatua, (Lindl.) Black hills to the Sweet Water. July 30, August. A, laxifoliita; (Necs.) On the Platte, from its mouth to the forks. September 12-30. I virga-aurea, (Linn. ) I height of 7,000 feet to I incana, (Torr. and d \giganten, (Linn.) va lm»yris graveolena, {1 mcidiflora, (Hook. ) phpappus Dpinulusua, kindtlia squarrosa, (D |22-Aug. 21. wiryaopsis hispida, (H< YmolUa, (Nutt.) Wi Kixiliaris, (Pursh.) franseria discolor, (Nul \timchys culumnaris, (' uhamorrhiza aagittata Manthus petiolaria, (] Maximilianf, (Schra telianllttlla unijloru, (' Vorcopsis tivctorifi, (Nt tmmi'dium gracik, (Tc tidtns connuta, (Muhl. uymenopuppua ciyrinibo Ictinella grandljlora, (' Millea milkfnlium, (I trtemisia bieunis, (Wi cana, (Pursh.) Wi tridentata, (Nutt.) ff'I'folia, (Torr.) S, Canadenais, (Michx Ludoviciana, (Nutt. •frigida, (Willd.) ] ( ■!(, 91 [ »W] Aug. iS->8«|)«. 94 A«g. T». [ibhngifoliwit (Nutt ) Lower PlBtto, Ac. Sim-^"g^'"'> (''inn.) Lower Platte to the Wind river inountahl*. , andinun, (NuU.) Near ITie nnow line of the Wind river mounJAin'*. [gbttialu, (Nutt.) With the pirrCedinsf. \ tkliugtrtoini*, (ftl^haM«f.) With the precJHlWt?. tlt^am, (Torr. and Gr. ) Wind river mountainN. (jfiiuciw, (Torr. and Or.) With the preceding. [jH«/, mrmopifolta, (Nutt. ) With (he preceding. ,nu/trrufen/<», (Nutt. ) Near D. Heiwiliflorn. With the preceding. rigtrm Canademe, (Linn.) On the Platte, from n<>«r its mouth to the R«d BttttN. IjAtttr [part of September to July 30. I,elli(lia»trum, (Nutt.) On the Plnf.to. I j. macranthum, (Nutt) Witii the preceding. If. f^Uellum, (Nutt.) With the precoding. \i. ulripsum, (Muhl) With the [iror^i ling. \9ulii'rrezia euthamlir, (Torr. and Or.) Larumid river, Ujjp^r North fdfk of the PiMte. 9^ 3. )iUdago rigida, (Linn.) North fork of th«i Pktte. Mimuriensls, (Nutt.) Fort Laramie, North fork of the Platte. July 23, to thtf rrtotintiJM. 1 j/>fcio»(| (Nutt. ) Upper Platte. . virga-aurea, (Linn.) var. multiradiola, (Torr. and Gr.) Wind river MOuiitalti, frohj the height of 7,000 feet to perpetual snow. [i. ineana, (Torr. and Gr.) iSwect Water river. \i. f^'ganlea, (Linn.) var. /^ From the Platte to the mountains. lUnoiyris graveolens, (Ton. smd Gr.) Sweet Water river. Aug. 20. li. mc(rf//?orfl, (Hook.) Upper Platte. iJIplnpappus spinuloaus, (DC.) Fort Laramie, North fork of the Platte. Sept. 3. Voiddia squarrom, (Dunal.) Up|>tr North fork of the Platte, and on the Sweet Water. July :2a- Aug. 21. fhrysopsla hispida, (Hook. ) On the Platte. . mollis, (Nutt. ) With the preceding. Too near C. foliofo, (Nutt. ) I axillaris, (VuTsh.) Sweet Water river. Aug. 3. korueria discolor, (Nutt.) Near the Wind river mountains. pachys culumnaris, (Ton. and Gr.) Little Wne river of the Kansas. June 2fi. almmorrhiza sagittata, (Nutt.) Wind river mountains. kHanlhus petiolaris, (Jiuti.) Black lulls of the Platte. July 26. Maximillant, (Schrad.) With the preceding. telianthella unijlora, (Torr. and Gr. ) Wind river mountains. wmpsis timtoria, {^\xii.) On the Platte. Vosmidium gracik, (Torr. and Gr.) Upper Platte. widens connuta, (Muhl.) With the preceding. Vyrnenopappus edrimbosns, (Ton. and Gr. ) With the preceding. tclinella grandijlora, (Torr. and Gr.) n. sp. Wind river mountains. fchillea millefolium, (Liiui.) A. lanosa, (Nutt.) Upper Platte to the moruntains. frlemisia biemis, (Willd.) On the Platto. cana, (Pursh.) Without flowers. With the preceding. tridentata, (Nutt.) On the Sweet Water, near the mountains. fil'fulia, (Torr.) South fork of the Platte, and North fork, to Laramie river. July 4-'Srt)t 3. t Canadensis, (Michx.) With the preceding. f' Ludoviciana, (Nalt.) Black hills of the Platte. July 26. frigidOy (Willd.) Black hills to the mountains. i' ^■ ti '•11 I H [ 174:] 9? A. Lewiiiii, (Torr. and Gr ?) No flowers. On the Platte. ,, ^^ ,^^ . Slcphunfimeria runcinala, (Nutt.) Upper Platte. GnaphuUum u/<)ftn««um,;(Linn.) Var. fjUix angmtioribtts. Sweet Water river. G. paluslre, (Nutt.) 0. (Torr. and Gr.) With the preceding. Arnica unguntijuliu, (Vahl.) A. fulgens, (Pur^jh.) Defiles of the Wind river mouutains, &ot, 7, OOC feet and upwards. August 13-14. Seiieci'j triangn/uris, (Hook.)/!/. (Torr. and Gr.) With the preceding. & sulmudus, (DC) With the preceding. S. Fremoniii, (Torr. and Gr.) n. sp. Highest parts of the mountains, to the region of perpeimi snow. Aug. 15. S. rapifulius, (Nutt.) North fork of tlie Platte and Sweet WatiT. & laneeolutus, C'orr. and Gr.) n. sp. With the preceding. fi. hydrophiluSf (Nutt.) On a lake in the Wind river mountainei. Aug. 12- IV. iS. spartiuideS) (Torr. and Gr.) n. sp Sweet Water river. Aug. 21. S.filifilius, (Nutt.) ft Fremontii, (Torr. and Gr.) Lower Platte. Cacalia iubcrute, (Nntt.) Upper Platte. Tetrudy^iiiia ineemia, (Nutt ) Sweet Water river, from its mouth to the highest parts ot *he M'inJ river mountains C irsium aUi«inmum, (Byieng.) Lower Platte. Crepis glauca, (Hook.) Upper Platte. Jdacrorhynchux (^ulylopappwi) Iruximvides, (Terr, and Gr.) Defdes of the Wind river mountaiii) Aug. 13-14. Mufgedium pulchtlluiii, (Ton. a.u i^/^'cphylos uva-ursi, (Spicng.') On a lake in the mountains. Aug. 12-17. PKIMULAUE.^. Dudeatlkeon dtniatuin, (Hook,) Defiles of the Wind river mouutains. Aug. 13-16. Audroaace occidentalis, (Nutt.) Sweet Water river. Aug. -"J. Lysimachia ciliata, (Linn. ) Forks of the Platte. July 2. Glaux maritima, (Linn.) Uppr Noth fork of the Platte. July 31. SCROPHULARIACE^J. Orthocarpus luttus, (Nutt.) Sweet WsHsr river, Aug. 5. JUi/nulua lilninvidcs, {licnth.) Defiles of the Wind river mountains. Aug. 13-16. X. Lfwihii, (Pursh.) With the preceding. Caalillejd pallida, {K\mt\i.) Sweet Water river. Aug 8. 93 [ «74 3 the region of perpetmi ;hest parts ot ♦he W'iii .tmniata, (Benth.) Wind ri^er mountains. August 13-16. There are two or ^ee otb«r jmecies of this genus in the collection, which I have not [>cen able to determine. "' \ycronica alpina .3, (Hook.) Alpine region of the Wind river mountains. \penistemon albidtim, (Nutt.) Forks of the Platte. July 2. ^ mmkum, (Nutt.) South fork of the Platte. July 4. p. mleranthum, (Nutt.) Sources of the Sweet Water, mar the mountains. August 7. Ptdiotlarissurrecla, {Benth.) Defiles of the Wind river > intains. August 13-16. 'Jerardiii lo>}fpfolia, {!iult.) Lower Platte. July 22. v OROBANCHACE E. Jrobanche fasciculata, (Nutt. ) South fork of the Platte. July 4. LABIAT.E. marda futuloea, (lAnn.") On the Platte. lenmum Canadense, (lAnn.) With the preceding. lycopu» sinuatus, (Ell.) With the preceding. Stachys aspera, {^ichj.) Forks of the Platte. July 2. 'mtdlaria galericulata, (Linn.) North of the Platte. ilmtha Canadensis, (Linn.) With the pieceding. hakli uzurea, (Lam.) Kansas river and forks of t'.ie Platte, July 10. June 19-29, July 3. V'ERBENACE.E. iVppia ciiiitifolia, Zapania cur.cifolia, (Torr., in Ann. Lye. Nat. Hiat N. York, it, page 331.) North fork of the Platte. July 12. ly erhena siricta, (Vent.) With the preceding, jr. //«.!ictual snow, on the Wind riv«c mountains. August 15. P. /fooc'tj, (Ricbaids.) North fork of the Pla'te. July 8. P- plusa, (Nutt.) Big Blue river of the Kansas. June ;0. ' ! I.'M ^(> tt tlie base; anthers oblong-lini ir, large. Style as long as J stamens; stigma' 2-lobcd; the lobes capitate. Ovary 2-celled, with two ovules in each cell SOLANACEiE. JVyc/cr/u/jj/u/ewm, (Doniicat.) South fork of the Platte. Jidy 4. Phi/salis pubescens, (Willd.) Upiicr North fork of the Platte. July 23. r. puinila, (Nutt.) With the preceding. GENTIANACEil]. Gentiana arctojthila fi dmsijiura, (Griscb. ? in Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii„page 61.) Sweet wJ of the Platte. August 4. G, affinis, (Griscb.) Nortili I'ork of th* Pla,tte. September 9. G. pneumonanthe, (Linn,) Laramie river to Little Sandy creek, in the moujutains. Julyl| August 8. G. Fremontii, n. ^>■ Stem brimched at the base; branches 1 -flowered; leaves ovate, cuspid cartilaginous on the margin, erect; corolla funnel-form; plicaj small, slight !y 2-tooth«l; stele ovate, at length entirely exsertcd on its thick stij)c. — Wind river mountains,— Auij 'Byanuhes severali 2 to 3 inchot< long, or nearly e«}ual length. Loaves about three lines long,^l H strong whitish ourulaginous border, shorter than the intemodes. Flowers as large as i of G. pmstraia, pu.itoinurous. Calyx two-thirds tho' length of tho corolla; the teeth abouii tliifd Uie 4eiigth of the tube. Plica) of the corolla scarcely one-third as long as thelanceij •'lobes. Stamena included; anthers oblong, somewhat cordate at the ba.se. Capsule in di<| rity, aftd -after dehweence, (in which state all our specimens were colleoted,) exserteilquiiti yond 4ho corolla, and^ with its long stii)e, reaembliiig a style with a large biktniellat* ftp None ^of the capsules contained any 'cds. This species is nearly related to G. pmln (Haenk,) and G. Aumika, (Stev.,) but the former ha*} spalulate obtuse recurved leaves, m-^ latter entire plicje, wliich are nearly the length of the corolla. In G. humilis, and in thei G. squarroaa, (Ledeb.,) the capaidc is oxserted aiier discharging the KCL-ds. Swertia perennia, /? obtusa, (Hook.) From Laramie river to the Big Buttes. Fraaera apecioaa, (Hook.) Defiles of the Wind river mountains. August 13-14. Lisianthus Ruaaelianua, (Hook.) Lower Platte to the forks. July-September. Apocynum canna Frax'mua platycdi^i nouMtaiiis. Julyl^ 95 AP0qYNACE.«3. [ »f4 3 Apocynum cannabinum, (Linn. ) On the Platfe. ASCLEPIADACE.fJ. Asekpias spectoaa, (Torr, in Ann. Lye. N. Yorkj ii, p. 918. — A Douglaaii, Hook. Fl. Bor.Am* ii, p. 53, t. 142.) Forks of the Platte. July 2. Collected also by Mr Nicollet in his North- western expedition. Hooker's plant dilTers in no essential characters from my A. speciosa, coU lecled by Dr. James in Long's first expedition. Avtrtieillata, {lian.) Small varifety. With the preceding. j1. /uJwMO, (Linn.) Kansas river. June 19. Anantkerix viridis, (Nutt.) Big Blue river of the Kansas. Jurie 20. Aceratea longifolia, (Ell. ) Polyotus longifolia. (Nutt. ) With the preceding. A. angustifolius. Polyotus angustifolius. (Nutt ) With the preceding. OLEACE^. Frdxim»phtyc(ii^pa,{Wic\\x.) Leaves only. Lower Platte. PLANTAGINACE.«. Plmtago erinpoda, (Torr., in Ann. Lye. N. York, ii, p. 237.) Mouth of the Sweet Water. July 3K p. gnaphaloidea, (Nutt.) Little Blue river of the Kansas. Jane 24. CHENOPODIACE.fi. Chenopodium zosttrl folium, (Hook,) Platte. ' C. album, (Linn.) North fork of the Platte. July 12. OUone canescens, (Mocq. Chenop., p. 74.) Atriplcx cancscens. (Nutt.) Upper North fork of the Platte. July 26. • Cycbloma platypl^la, (ytocq., I. c. p. 18) Kochia dentata, (Willd.) Ntorth fork of the Platte. September 4. Sueda maritima, (Mocq., 1. c. p. 127.) With the preceding. Eurotia /ana/a, .(Mocq., 1. c. p. 81.) Diolis lanata, (Pwsh.) Red Buttoti to the mountains. August 18-85. Fremoniia, n. gen. PlOWiprs diclinous, monoecious and ^ dioicous, hetoromorphons. Stam. Fl. in terminal amehts. Scales eccentrically peltafto, on a short .stipe, antgular, somewhat cuspidate up- ward. Stamens 2, 3, and 4 under each scale, nakedj ...jseile ; anthers oblong. Pist. Fl. solitary, axillary. P^rigonium closely adhering to the lower half of the ovary, ^e border «ntiTe, nearly obsolete, but in fruit enlarging into a broad horizontal angular and undulate wing. Ovary ovale ; styles thick, divaricate ; stigmas linear. Friiit a utricle, the lower two-tfcirde covered with the indurated calyx, compressed. Seed verlicul ; integument double. Embryo flat-spiral, (2 to 3 turns,) green i radicle inferior; albumen none. * i'. lermicularis. (Bath? vermiculuris. Hook.) Fl. Bor. Amcr. ii, p. 128. Upper North fork of the Platte, near the mouth of the Sweet Water. July 30. A low glabrou.s, difTusely branched shrub, clothed w'th a whitish bark. Leaves alternate, linear, fleshy, and almost semiterete, 6 to 12 lines long and 1 *o 2 lines wide. Staminate aments about three-fourths of an -"ch long, cyl- indrical, at first dense, and composed of ckisely compacted angular scales, covering naked an- thers. Anthers very deciduous. Fertile flowers in the axils of the rameal loaveu. Calyx closely adherent, and at first with only on obscure border or limb, but at length forming a wing 3 to 4 lines in diameter, resembling that of Salsola. This remarkable plant, which I dedicate to Lieutenant Fremont, was first collected by Dr. James about the sources of the Canadian, (in Long's cdcpedition, ) but it was omitted in my account of his plants, published in the Aiuials of the Lyceum of Natural History. It is undoubtedly the balls' vermicularis of Hooker, (I. c.,) collected on the barren grounds of the Oregon river by the late Mr. Douglas, who found it with only the staminate flowers. We have it now frvui a third locality, so that the plant must b« f'^ :. m W:W. > ■ m ■W t t ' il \'t vm ■k r 1^4 3 M ii h I m- M' H ■:> widely diffused in the barren regions towards th» Rocky mounlains. It belongs to the sub-onlcr splrolohcsB of Meyer and Mooquin, but can hardly l>c referred to cither the tribe suacdinop or tj aohoke, differing from HSfth in its diclinous hctcromorphous flowers, and also from the latter in it^ flat-spiral, not cochleate embryo. • • ^ : ; nyctaginace.e. Oxybaphits nyctaginea, (Torr. in James's Rocky Mountain Plants.) Calynienia nyctaginea,' (Nutt.) Kansas river, June 20. Abrmia meWfera, (Dougl ) North fork of the Platte, July 7-12. A, (tripterocalyx) micranthum, n. sp. Viscid and glandularly pulicsccnt; leaves ovate, undulaV, obtuse, arute at the base, petiolatc; perianth funnel form, 4- lobed at the summit, 3 to 4 androujj achcnium broadly 3-winged — Near the mouth of Svveet Water river. August 1." Annua!. Stem diffusely branched from the base, beginning to flower when only an inch high; thebranehei of the mature plant above a foot long. Iicaves 1 to I J inch in length; petioles about as lonj as the lamiiyi. Heads arillaTv. Involucre 5-leavcd, 8 to 14-flowered; leaflets ovate, acumi. nate. Perianth colored, (purplish,) 3 to 4 lines long; lobes serai-ovate, obtuse. fStamens insertftl in the middle of the tube, unequal; anthers ovate, sagittate at the base. Ovary oblong, clolW with the 3-winged base of the calyx; style filiform; stigma filiform -clavate, incurved. Matuii «chenium about 7 lines long and 4 wide; tlie wings broad, nearly equal, membranaceous anj strongly reticulated. Seed oblong. Embryo conduplieatc, involving the deeply 2-parted indj albumen; radicle linear-terete; inner cotyledon abortive! outer one oblong, foliaceous, concave, as long as the radicle. This intercsiing plant diflers from its congeners in its funnel -form pe- rianth, 3 to 4 androus flowers, and broadly 3-wingcd fruit, but I have not been able to compan it critically with other species ol abronia. It may prove to be a distinct genus. • POLYGONACE.-E. Polygonum Persicuria, (Linn.) North fork of the Platte. September jA^ P. avicularc, (Linn.) With the preceding. P. amphihiiim, (Linn.) Sweet Water river. August 4. P. viviparum, (Linn.) Black hills. July 26. Runtix salicifolhi)!, (Weinn.) With the preceding. Oxyria reniformii), (Hill.) Alpine region of the Wind river mountains. August 13-16. Eriogunum ovulifolium, (Kutt.) Horse-shoe creek. Upper North forli of the Platte. July2!,| E. caespUosum, (Nutt.) With the preceding. E. umbdlatum, (Torr., ) in Ann. Lye. N.. Hist. N. York, ii,'p. 241. Sweet Water river. Aug.I.I iE. Fremontii, n. sp. With the preceding. £. annuum, (Nutt.) North fork of the Platte. September 4. ELEAGNACE.*:. Shcpherdia argentea, (Nutt.) '« Grains de bcenf." Upper North fork cf the Platte, froniiiaj Red Buttes to the mouth of the Sweet Water. August 3t-38. S. Canadensis, (Nutt.) On a lake in the Wind river mountains. August 13-17. Eleagnu8 argenteus, (Pursh.) With the preceding. EUPHORBIACE.E. Euphorbia marginatn, (Pursh..) Forks of the Platte. September II. E. polygon! folia, (Lmn.) South fork of the Platte. July 4. E corotlaia, (Linn.) On the Kansas. E. iibtmala, (Pursh.) Little Blue river of the Kansas. July 23. Pilinophytum capitatum, (Klotschin Wiegem. Arch., April, 1842.) Croton capitatum, (Micb5)| Fotka of the Platte. Hendeeandra? (Each.,) multijbra, n. sp.; annual canescent, with stellate pubescence, diceci**] Sagittaria sagittifoUa, 1 the sub-oii!(!T auxdince or h the latter in iU nia nyctaginoa,' i V ■• ovate, unduIaV, I 3 to 4 anilroasj ist 1.' Annual igh; thebranfha ilofl ahout as Ion; ets ovate, acumi" Stamens inaenel I ■y ohlong, clollied icurvcd. Mala I smbranaceous anj I )ly 2-parted racalj I ilidceous, concave,! itsfunncl-fotmpe-l en able to compM| I. '■Jf ^gU8t 13-16. Platte. Julys''! [ater river. Aue.i.l Platte, from ii»| -17. 97 [ 174] stem somewhat dilTusely and trichotomously l)ranchcd; leaves ovate -oblong; petiolato obtuse, ectira; staminatc flowers on crowded axillary and terminal compound spikes. — Laranue river, North fork of the Platte. September 3 — II. — About a foot high. Fructiferous plant unknown. With larger leaves. Forks of the Platte. July 2. This seems to be the same as the plant of Dnun- mond's Texan Collection, 111, No. 266. SALICIACE.«. Salix lurigifulla, (Willd.) On the Platte. S, Muhlenbergti, (Willd.) With the preceding. Several other species exist in the collection— some from the Platte, others from t!ic mountains; but I have had no time to determine thein satisfactorily. Populus trtmuloidcs, (Miclix.) Lake in the Wind river mountains. I\ angmilfolia, (Torr. in Ann. Lye. N. Hist, of New York, ii, p. 249.) Sweet Water river. Aug. 21. V. vwnilifera, (Ait.) Lower Platte. ULMACE.E. L'lmusfukn, (Michx.) Lower Platte. Seltis crassifolia, (Nutt.) With the preceding. , BETULACE.E. . Betula glamlulosa, (Michx.) On a luke in the Wind river mountains. Aug. 12-17. B. ocddmUtlhty (Hook.) With the preceding. CONIFER.E. I Vinm rigidu, (Linn.) Lower Platte. Without cones. Leaves in threes, about 3 inches long. I P. undctCTmined. Defiles of the Wind river mountains. Aug. 13-14. Between P. strob us and P. Lambertiana. Leaves in 5's, 1 i^ to 3 inches long, rigid. No cones. \P. {Abies) alba, (Michx.) With the preceding. \P. near balsat7tea. With the prccedinpj. Leaves only. IJuniperus Virglniana, (Linn.) Lower Platte. Utatum, (Mic^'l bcscenoe, JiffClOtl ENDOGENOUS PLANTS. ALlSMACEiE. Sdgittaria sagittifolia, (Linn.) On the Kansas. ORCHIDACE^. ?latanthera leucopha^a, (LimW.) Black hills. July 27. hyperborea, (R. Br.) Laramie river to the Red Buttcs. Aug. 26-31. mranthes cernua, (Rich. ) Sweet Water river. Aug. 6. Apkcirum hyemale, (Nutt.) On the Platte. June 29. IRIDACE.E. ^yrirKhium anceps, {lArni.) North fork of the Platte. July 12. fis Missouriensis, (Nutt., in Jour. Acad. Phil, vii, p. 58.) In fruit. Sweet Water river. Aug. 3* Rhizoma very thick. Leaves narrow, rigid, as long as the scape. Scape nearly naked, 2-tlow- fted, terete, 10 inches high. Oapsules oblong, obtusely triangular, Flowers not seen. 7 I ' f. ') It [174] I ill ri-i! 'I ' f 98 LILlACEiE. l\'''< Yucca anguatifolia, (SimB.) Laramio rivci. July 14. AlHwn reticulatum, (Fras.) Defiles in the Wind river mountainH, Aug. 12-17. Stnilaeina stellata, (Desf.) From the Laramie river to the Red Buttee. Aug. 26-31 MELANTHACE^J Zigadenus glaucus, {Vutt.) Sweet Water river. Aug. ,IUNCACE.«. Juncus echinatus, (Muhl.) North forii of tlie Platte. Sept. 4. COMMELYNACE.E. Tradescantia Virginica, (Linn ,) and a narrow-leaved variety. Kansas and Platte. OYPERACE-^. Carexfeslucacea, (Hchk.) On the Kansas. .Fune. C. aurea, (Nutt.) Little Blue river of the Kansas. June 22. C panicea, (Linn.) Alpine region of the Wind river mtJuntains, near perpetual .snow. Aug. 15, C. atrata, (Linn.) WHli the picceding. GKAM1A'EJ3. Sparlina cynosuroidcs, (Willd.) Jjittle Blue river of the Kansas. June 22; Ariatida pallens, (Vunh.) On the Platte. June 29. Agroatis Michauxiana, (Trin.) Little Blue river of the KansiV--. June 23. Phleum alpinum, (Linn.) AljTinc region of the Wind river mountains. Aug. 13-14. Bromua eiliatuit, {\Ann.) On tlie Platte. June- Aug. Featuca ovina, (Linn.) Alpine region of the Wind river i»ountains. Aug. 13-14. Featuca nutans, (Willd.) On the Kansa-s Poa laxa, (H<«enke.) With the preceding. i*. croco^a, (Michx.) With the preceding. Spikelets 2-rtowered. P. nervata, (Willd.) On the Kansas. Koeleria cristata, (Pers.) Big Blue river of the Kansas, and on the Platte as high as Laiaoiej river. June 20 — July 22. Deachampaia ccespitosa, (Beauv.) Alpine region of the Wind river mountains. Aug. 13-14, Andropogon acoparius, (Michx.) Lower Platte. A. nutans, (Linn.) Laramie river, North fork of the Platte. Sept. 3-4. Hordeum jubatum, (Ait.) Forks of the Platte. July 2. Elymua Virginicua, (Linn. ) Big Blue river of the Kansas. Juno 30. JE. Canadensis, (Linn.) Little Blue river of the Kansas. June 22. Beckmannia cruciformis, (Jacq.) North fork of the Platte. July 22. EQUISETACE^. Equisetum arvense, (Jjinn. ) On a lake in the Wind river mountains. Aug. 12-17. FILICES. Hypopellia obtusa, (Torr. Compend. Bot. N. States, p. 380, 1826.) Aspidium obtusum, (Willi)! Woodsia Perriniana, (Hook, and Grcv. Icon. Fil. L t. 08.) Physematium (Kaulf.) obtusufflj (Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. ii, p. 259.) On the Platte. The maps > jection, and t\ For the det( the (ollowing One tel One cir One sej One se:i One bo: One Bn One snij ArnoJ The rate of i ment ; " ChronomeK " S/oi 'Feu " Lose si Au accident a 5ias river strain( Jered it useless >fi'ne to the 24t Brockbank pock was fourteen sec ^•^^"■05, has been From the 24th (of which therai oi this watcli wa joiigitiides which tliey ap judging, 99 [ 174 J ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS. Tlie maps which accompany this report are on Flamsteed's modified pro- jection, and the longitudes are referred to the meridian of Greenwich. For the determination of astronomical positions, we were provided with the following instruments: One telescope, magnifying power 120. One circle, by Gambey, Paris. One sextant, by Gambey, Paris. One sextant, by Troughton. One box chronometer, No. 7,810, by French. One Brockbank pocket chronometer. One small watch with a light chronometer balance, No. 4,C32, by Arnold & Dent. The rate of the chronometer 7,810, is exhibited in the following state- ment: "New York, May 5, 1842. "Chronometer No. 7,6l0, by French, is this day at noon — " iS/ou; of Greenwich mean time - • 11' 4" *' /'a.sY of New York mean time - - 4h. 45' 1" " Loses per day "ARTHUR STEWART, " 74 Merchants^ Exchan,i(e.^' An accident among some rough ground in the neighborhood of the Kan- sas river strained the balance of this chronometer, (No. 7,810,) and ren- dered it useless during the remainder of the campaign. From the Jnh ot June to the 24th of August, inclusively, the longitudes depend upon the Brockbank pocket chronometer; the rate of which, on leaving St. Louis, was fourteen seconds. The rate obtained by observations at Fort Laramie, 14".05, has been used in calculation. From the 24th of August until the termination of the journey, No. 4,632 (of which the rale was 33".79) was used for the same purposes. The rate of this watch was irregular, and I place but little confidence in the few longitudes which depend upon it, though, so far as we have any means oi judging, they appear tolerably correct. i • fA I 1. w -^1 ij H :i[ I' fii Mf 1- 1 C "i ] 100 Table of laliludcs and hngilude.s, deduced from ohservatiom made during tlie journey. Datu. (■ '■ !( 'ii. :4 t'li . ;>-,i I 1842. May 27 June 8 16 18 19 20 25 20 27 28 30 2 July 4 6 7 11 12 i;i 14 16 23 24 25 20 26 28 29 30 Aug. I 4 7 8 9 10 15 19 19 SO 22 22 23 30 Sept. 3 4 5 8 9 10 16 16 17 Stution. •St. Louis, residence of Colonel Unmt (Jliniiteaii's lower triulint; post, Kansiis river Left liiink of llie K(in.«iis river, seven miles uliove the lord ..---- Verniiiiion ereck . - - - - Colli Hpring*", near the road to Laramie Biff Uliii! river . . - . . Little Hliie river - . - - - i RiKlit linnk of PliUte river - - - - RiKJit hunk of Plutte river - . - - Kiulit hunk of Platte river - - - - KiKlit hiink of Platte river . - . . .luii'tioii of North and 8outh forlvs of the Nehrasku or Platte river - . . . - South fork of Platte river, left bank. South Ibrk of Plutte river, island - . - Sontli fork of Vlatle river, left bank - - - South fork of Platte river, St. Vrain's fort - Crow er(!ek _ . - _ . On 11 >;treiun, name unknown Ho;-se creek, Cioshen's hole > - . - Fort Larainie, near the mouth of Laramie's fork North fork of Platte river - - . - North fork of Platte ri\er - - - - North fork of Platte river, Dried .Meat camfi North fork of Platte river, noon halt North fork of Platte river, mouth of Deer creek North fork of Platte river, (Jachc eamp North fork of Platte river, left bank North fork of Platte river, (ioat island Sweet Water river, one mile below Rock Independ- ence ------ Sweet Water river ----- Sweet Water river - - - - - Little Sandy creek, tributary to the Colorado of the West ...... New fork, tributary to the Colorado Mountain lake . . . - . Highest peak of the Wind river mountains. Sweet Water, noon halt - - . . Sweet Water river ----- Sweet Water river - - - . - Sweet Water river, noon halt ... Sweet Water river, at Rock Independence - North fork of Platte river, mouth of Sweet Water - Horse-shoe creek, noon halt .. . - North fork of Platte river, right bank North fork of Platte river, near Scott's bluffs North fork of Platte river, right bank, six miles above Chimney rock - - . - _ North fork of Platte river, mouth of Ash creek North fork of Platte river, right bank North fork of Platte river. Cedar bluffs Platte river, noon halt • - - - Platte river, left bank - - . . Platte river, left bank - LatiUidi Longituilv. Den;. 38 3!) 39 39 39 39 40 40 40 40 40 ruin 37 05 00 15 30 45 26 41 39 39 39 sec. \ IJen.min.scr. ;34 i 57 94 25 4ii 41 41 41 41 40 40 40 40 l!i 40 08 50 06 32 51 55 95 38 OS 96 04 07 96 14 4'.i 96 32 35 98 22 12 98 45 49 99 05 24 100 05 i; 41 05 05 100 41) 4.) 40 51 17 103 07 40 53 26 ! 103 30 3; 40 22 35 105 12 !•: 40 41 59 104 57 411 41 08 30 1 104 39 37 41 40 13 104 24 3fi 42 12 10 104 47 l:) 42 39 25 ; 104 59 5'.i 42 47 40 1 42 51 35 105 50 4'. 42 50 08 42 52 24 106 08 il 42 50 53 ' 106 38 •2fi 42 38 01 106 54 32 42 33 27 107 13 •in 42 29 56 107 25 23 42 32 31 108 30 1.1 42 27 15 109 21 32 42 27 34 109 37 53 42 42 46 109 58 11 42 49 49 110 08 ns 42 24 32 42 22 22 42 31 46 42 26 10 42 29 36 42 27 18 42 24 24 42 01 40 41 54 38 43 17 14 10 54 62 42 36 19 30 16 31 34 38 II ■{' 101 [ n4] Table of latitudes and longitudes — Continued. De 40 40 21 19 Platte river, left bank . 40 39 44 20 Platte river, noon halt, left banlc - . 40 48 19 20 Platte river, left bank . 40 54 02 21 Platte river, left bank . 41 05 37 23 Platte river, noon halt, left bank . 41 20 20 23 Platte river, left bank . 41 22 .'J2 2.5 Platte river, mouth of Loup fork . 41 22 11 28 Platte river, mouth of Elk Horn river - 41 09 34 29 Platte river, left bank . 41 02 15 Oct. 2 Bellevue, at the post of the American Fur Company, right bank of the MiHsouri river - . 41 08 24 95 20 4 Left bank of the jMissouri, opposite i > lie right bank of the mouth of the Platte . 41 02 11 5 Missouri river . - - . 40 34 08 6 Bertholet's island, noon halt . 40 27 08 6 Missouri river, mouth of Nishnabatona river 40 16 40 8 Missouri river, left bank - 39 36 02 10 Missouri river, mouth of the Kansas river 39 00 03 li J f lOfi 08 21 lOfi 38 ifi ! 106 54 J: ,107 13 iii 107 25 ■:.! 108 30 13 II 109 21 3': 109 37 53 109 58 11 no 08 «s ORE A REPORT OF TUE EXPLORING EXPEDITION TO OREGON AND NORTH CALIFORNIA, IN THE YEARS 1843-'44. 14 Colonel J. J. A Chief (ij Sik: III purs 1642, which I Wilkes on the of the interior ( spring of IS-i,'^, sas, on the Mis: the Missouri ri the necessary p I tionscontciiipla My party co I Americans, aino I several ol' those i been favorably j Fitzpatrick, win I territories iiad r= signed to cxplor who had been n Avith me in the s directions, Mr. 'J the party, with f I I had been joinei I Massachusetts, v ISandwich island The men enga Alexis At Francois Oliver Be Bapiiste I John A. ( John G. C Manuel C Ransom C Philibert ( Michel Cr William C Clinton D( Baptiste I Basil Laje Francois ] Henry Lei 105 [ i74 ] KEPORT. Washington Citv, March 1, 1.S45. Colonel J. J. AiiERT, Cliiff(\f the Corps of Tnpographicul Engmeers: Sik: III l>uisuance of your instiuctioiis, to connect the reconnoissance of 1842, which I iuid the honor to conduct, with the surveys of Commander Wilkes on the coast of the Pacific ocean, so as to give a connected survey of tlie interior of our continent, I proceeded to the Great West early in the spring of J 843, and arrived, on the 1 7th of May, at the little town of Kan- sas, on the Missouri frontier, near the junction of the Kansas river with the Missouri river, where 1 was detained near two weeks incompleting the necessary preparations for the extended explorations wliich my instruc- tions contemplated. My parly consisted princi))ally of Creole and Canadian French, and Americans, amounting in all to 39 men ; among whom you will recognise several of those who were with me in my first expedition, and who have !ieen favorably brought to your notice in a former report. Mr. Thomas Fitzpatrick, whom many years of hardship and exposure in the western territories had r ndered familiar with a portion of the country it was de- signed to explore, had been selected as our guide ; and Mr. Charles Preuss, Uvho had been my assistant in the previous journey, was again associated with me in the same capacity on the present expedition. Agreeably to your [directions, Mr. Theodore Talbot, of Washington city, had been attached to the party, with a view to advancement in his profession ; and at St. Louis I had been joined by Mr. Frederick Dwight, a gentleman of Springfield, IMassachiisetts, who availed himself of our overland journey to visit the [Sandwich islands and China, by way of Fort Vancouver. The men engaged for the service were : Alexis Ayot, Francois Badeau, Oliver Beaulieu, Baptiste Bernier, John A. Campbell, John G. Campbell, Manuel Chapman, Ransom Clark, Philibert Courteau, Michel Cr61is, William Creuss, Clinton Deforest, Baptiste Derosier, Basil Lajeunesse, Francois Lajeunesse, Henry Lee, Louis Menard, Louis Montreuil, Samuel Neal, Alexis Pera, Francois Pera, James Power, Raphael Proue, Oscar Sarpy, Baptiste Tabeau, Charles Taplin, Baptiste Tesson, Auguste Vasquez, Joseph Verrot, Patrick White, Tiery Wright, Louis Zindel, and y f; Wv 1 \' , ■ 1 1 ' (■ \ ■ !: 1 i i '':li!' i ^\.in:] !i' (• C 174] 106 Jacob Dodson, a free young colored man of Washington city, who vol- unteered to acconr.pany the expedition, and performed his duty manfully throughout the voyage. Two Delaware Indians — a fine-looking old man andhisson — were engaged to accompany the expedition as hunters, through the kindness of Major Cummins, the excellent Indian agent. L. Maxwell, who had accompanied the expedition as one of the hunters in 1842, beiii" on his way to Taos, in New Mexico, also joined us at this place. The party was armed generally with Hall's carbines, which, with a brass 12-lb. howitzer, had been furnished to me from the United States arsenal at St. Louis, agreeably to the orders of Colonel S. W, Kearney, commanding the 3d military division. Three men were especially detailed for the man- agement of this piece, under the charge of Louis Ziudel, a native of Germa- ny, who had been 19 years a non-commissioned officer of artillery in the Prussian army, and regularly instructed in the duties of his profession. The camp equipage and provisions were transported in twelve carts, drawn each by two mules; and a light covered wagon, mounted on good springs, had been provided for the safer carriage of the instruments. These were : One refracting telescope, by Frauenhofer. One reflecting circ .., by Gambey. Two sextants, by Troughton. One pocket chronometer. No. 837, by Gotfe, Falmouth. One pocket chronometer. No. 739, by Brockbank. One syphon barometer, by Bunten, Paris. One cistern barometer, by Frye & Shaw, New York. Six thermometers, and a number of small compasses. To make the exploration as useful as possible, I determined, in conform. ity to your general instructions, to vary the route to the Rocky mountains I from that followed in the year 1842. The route then was up the valleyoi the Great Platte river to the Soath Pass, in north latitude 42°; the route now determined on was up the valley of the Kansas river, and to theheaij| of the Arkansas, and to some pass in the mountains,if any could be found, at the sources of that river. i Bj'- making this deviation from the former route, the problem of a new| road to Oregon and California, in a climate more genial, might be solved; and a better knowledge obtained of an important river, and the country !( drained, while the great object of the expedition would find its point oil connnencement at the termination of the former, which was at that great gate in the ridge of the Rocky mountains called the South Pass, and on the lofty peak of the mountain which overlooks it, deemed the highest peakiii the ridge, and from the opposite sides of which four great rivers take tlieit| rise, and flow to the Pacific or the Mississippi. Various obstacles delayed uur departure mitil the morning of the 29th. I when we commenced our long voyage ; and at the close of a day, rendered disagreeably cold by incessant rain, encamped about four miles beyond the| frontier, on the verge of the great prairies. Resuming our journey on the 31st, after the delay of a day to complete I our equipment and furnish ourselves with some of the comforts of civilized life, we encamped in the evening at Elm Grove, in company with several | emigrant wagons, constituting a party which was proceeding to Upper Cal- ifornia, under the direction of Mr. J. B. Childs, of Missouri. The wagons i were variously freighted with goods, furniture, and farming utensils, con- miles, succeeded the nth; when mi 107 [ 174 ] taining among other things an entire set of machinery for a mill which Mr. Childs designed erecting on the waters of the Sacramento river emptying into the bay of San Francisco. We were joined here by Mr. WiUiam Gilpin, of Missouri, who, intending this year to visit the settlements in Oregon, had been invited to accompany us, and proved a useful and agreeable addition to the party. From this en- campment, our route until the 3d of ^une was nearly the same as that de- scribed to you in 1842. Trains of wagons were almost constantly in sight ; giving to the road a populous and animated appearance, although the great- er portion of the emigrants were collected at the crossing, or already on their march beyond the Kansas river. Leaving at the ford the usual emigrant road to the mountains, (which you will find delineated with considerable detail on one of the accompanying maps,) we continued our route along the southern side of the Kansas, where we found the country much more broken than on the northern side of the river, and where our progress was much delayed by the numerous small streams, which obliged us to make frequent bridges. On the morning of the 4ih, we crossed a handsome stream, called by the Indians Otter creek, about 130 feet wide, where a flat stratum of limestone, which forms the bed, made an excellent ford. We met here a small party of Kansas and Delaware Indians, the latter returning from a hunting and trapping expe- dition on the upper waters of the river ; and on the heights above were five or six Kansas women, engaged in digging prairie potatoes, {psoralea esculeiiia.) On the afternoon of the 6th, while busily engaged in crossing a wooded stream, we were thrown into a little confusion by the sudden ar- rival of Maxwell, who entered the canjp at full speed at the head of a war party of Osage Indians, with gay red blankets, and heads shaved to the scalp lock. They had run him a distance of about nine miles, from a creek on which we had encamped the day previous, and to which he had re- turned in search of a runaway horse belonging to Mr. D wight, which had taken the homeward road, carrying with him saddle, bridle, and holster pistols. The Osages were probably ignorant of our strength, and, when they charged into the camp, d 'ove off a number of our best horses ; but we were fortunately well mounted, and, after a hard chase of seven or eight miles, succeeded in recovering them all. This accident, which occasioned delay and trouble, and threatened danger and loss, and broke down some good horses at the start, and actually endangered the expedition, was a first fruit of having gentlemen in company — very estimable, to be sure, but who are not trained to the care and vigilance and self-dependence which such an expedition required, and who are not subject to the orders which enforce attention and exertion. We arrived on the 8th at the mouth of the Smoky- hill fork, which is the principal southern branch of the Kansas ; forming here, by its junction with the Republican, or northern branchy the main Kansas river. Neither stream was fordable, and the necessity of making a raft, together with bad weather, detained us here until the morning of the nth; when we resumed our journey along the Republican fork. By our observations, the junction of the streams is in latitude 39° 03' 38", longi- tude 96° 24' 56", and at an elevation of 926 feet above the gulf of Mexico. For several days we continued to travel along the Republican, through a country beautifully watered with numerous streams, handsomely timbered; and rarely an incident occurred to vary the monotonous resemblance which oue day on the prairies here bears to another, and which scarcely require ^ !r I ! t rl ; .' i'«^ V . • '1 S* I •? :[; Mil: pi '' I !|^ I! :- I, i! m . 1 11:^' li >rf5 II ! it'*' C 174 ] 108 a particular description. Novi' and then, we caught a glimpse of a small herd of elk ; and occasionally a band of antelopes, whose curiosity some- times brought them within rifle range, would circle round us, and then scour off into the prairies. As we advanced on our road, these became more frequent ; but as we journeyed on the line usually followed by the trapping and hunting parties of the Kansas and Delaware Indians, game of every kind continued very shy and wild. The bottoms which form the immediate valley of the main river w?!re generally about three miles wide; having a rich soil of black vegetable mould, and, for a prairie country, well interspersed with wood. The country was every where covered with a considerable variety of grasses — occasionally poor and thin, but far more frequently luxuriant and rich. We had been gradually and regularly as- cending in our progress westward, and on the evening of the 14th, when we encamped on a little creek in the valley of the Republican, 265 miles by our travelling road from the mouth of the Kansas, we were at an eleva- tion of 1,520 feet. That part of the river where we were now encamped is called by the Indians the Big Timber. Hitherto our route had been laborious and extremely slow, the unusually wet spring and constant rain liaviiig so saturated the whole country that it was necessary to bridge every water- course, and, for days together, our usual march averaged only five or six miles. Fhiding that at such a rate of travel it would be imposible to com- ply with your instructions, I determined at this place to divide the party, and, leaving Mr. Fitzpatrick with 25 men in charge of the provisions and heavier baggage of the camp, to proceed myself in advance, with a light party of 15 men, taking with me the howitzer and the light wagon which carried the instruments. Accordingly, on the morning of the 16th, the parties separated ; and, bear- ing a little out from the river, with a view of heading some of the numerous affluents, after a few hours' travel over somewhat broken ground, Ave en- tered upon an extensive and high level prairie, on which we encamped to- wards evening at a little stream, where a single dry cottonwood afforded the necessary fuel for preparing supper. Among a variety of grasses which to- day made their first appearance, I noticed bunch grass, \festuca,) and bufialo grass, {sesleria dactyloides.) Amorpha canescens {lead plant) continued the characteristic plant of the country, and a narrow-leaved lathyrus oc- curred during the morning in beautiful patches. Sida coccinea occurred frequently, with a psoralia near psoralia Jloribunda, and a number of plants not hitherto met, just verging into bloom. The water on which we had encamped belonged to Solomon's fork of the Smoky-hill river, along whose tributaries we continued to travel for several days. The country afforded us an excellent road, the route being generally over high and very level prairies ; and we met with no other delay than be- ing frequently obliged to bridge one of the numerous streams, which were well timbered witli ash, elm, cottonwood, and a very large oak — the latter being, occasionally, five and six feet in diameter, with a spreading summit. Sida coccinea is very frequent in vermilion-colored patches on the high and low prairie ; and I remarked that it has a very pleasant perfume. The wild sensitive plant {schrankia angustata) occurs frequently, gen- erally on the dry prairies, in valleys of streams, and frequently on the broken prairie bank. I remark that the leaflets close instantly to a very light touch. Amorpha^ with the same psoralea, and a dwarf species of lupinus, are the characteristic plants. r^v..^: 109 [ 174] On the lf)th, in the afternoon, \vc crossed the Pawnee road to the Ar- kansas, and, travelling a few miles onward, the monotony of the prairies was suddenly dispelled by the appearance of five or six buffalo bulls, form- iiiCT a vanguard of immense herds, among which we were travelling a (ew days afterwards. Prairie dogs were seen for the first time during the day; and we had the good fortune to obtain an antelope for supper. Our eleva- tion had now increased to l,f)00 feet. Sida cocciiiea was a characteristic on the creek bottoms, and buffalo grais is becoming abundant on the higher parts of the ridges. June 21. — During the forenoon we travelled up a branch of the creek on which we had encamped, in a broken country, where, however, the dividfng ridges always afforded a good r ad. Plants were few ; and with the short sward of the buffalo grass, which now prevailed every where, giving to the prairies a smooth and mossy appearance, were mingled frequent patches of a beautiful red grass, {aristida pallens.) which had made itsap- j pearaiice only within the last few days. We halted to noon at a solitary Cottonwood in a hollow, near which was killed the first buffalo, a large old bull. Antelope appeared in bands during the day. Crossing here to the allluents of the Republican, we encamped on a fork, about forty feet wide and one foot deep, flowing with a swift current over a sandy bed, and well wooded with ash-leaved maple, {negundo fruxinifolium,) elm, cottonwood, and a k\v white oaks. We were visiied in the evening by a very violent storm, accompanied by wind, lightning, and thunder; a cold rain falling in torrents. According to the I'arometer, our elevation was 2,130 feet above the gulf. At noon, on the 23d, we descended into the valley of a principal fork of the Republican, a beautiful stream with a dense border of wood, consisting principally of varieties of ash, forty feet wide and four feet deep. It was mu- sical with the notes of many birds, v/hich, from the vast expanse of silent prairie around, seemed all to have collected here. We continued during the afternoon cur route along the river, which was populous with prairie dogs, (the bottoms being entirely occupied with their villages,) and late in the evening encamped on its banks. The prevailing timber is a blue-foliaged ash, {fraxirws, near F. Americana,) and ash-leaved maple. With these ^QtG/raxinus Americana, cottonwood, aim long-leaved willow. We gave to this stream the name of Prairie Dog river. Elevation 3,350 feet. Our road on the 25th lay over high smooth ridges, 3,100 feet above the sea; biiifalo in great numbers, absolutely covering the face of the country. At evening we encamped within a few miles of the main Republican, on a lit- tle creek, where the air was fragrant with the perfume of aricmisia Jili/o/ia, which we here saw for the first time, and which was now in bloom. Shortly after leaving our encampment on the 26th, we found suddenly that the na- ture of the country had entirely changed. Bare sand hills every where sur- rounded us in the undulating ground along which we were moving; and the plants peculiar to a sandy soil made their appearance in abundance. A few miles further we entered the valley of a large stream, afterwards known to be the Republican fork of the Kansas, whose shallow waters, with a depth of only a few inches, were spread out over a bed of yellowish white sand 600 yards wide. With the exception of one or two distant and de- tached groves, no timber of any kind was to be seen; and the features of the country assumed a desert character, with which the broad river, strug- gling for existence among quicksands along the treeless banks, was str'k- Ki' n| ;n i? ', h \ \ U:I .f :*, !■!': f ' • [ 174] 110 'Ml •■ :« '.' I I ^ i '4 ■1 1 . ■ j 1 I ■ |l ii: III 1 .1 ' " '' i V !1 ■ ' 'i' i il^^" '.^ ingly in keeping. On the opposite side, the broken ridges assunaed almost a mountainous appearance ; and, fording the stream, we continued on our course among these ridges, and encamped late in th'? evening at a little pond of very bad water, from which we drove away a herd of buffalo that were standing in and about it. Our encampment this evening was 3,500 feet above the sea. We travelled now for several days through a broken and dry sandy region, about 4,000 feet above the sea, where there were no run- ning streams; and some anxiety wa^constantly felt on account of the un* certainty of water, which was only to be found in small lakes that occur. red occasionally among the hills. The discovery of these always brought pleasure to the camp, as around them were generally green flats, which af- forded abundant pasturage for our animals; and here were usually collected herds of the butiulo, which now were scattered over all the country in countless numbers. The s'il of bare and hot sands supported a varied and exuberant growth of plants, which were much farther advanced than we had previously found them, and whose showy bloom somewhat relieved the appearance of gene- ral sterility. Crossing the summit of an elevated and contimioiis range of rolling hills, on the afternoon of the 30th of June we found ourselves over- looking a broad and misty valley, where, about ten miles distant, and 1,000 feet below us, the South fork of the Platte was rolling magnificently along, swollen with the waters of the melting snows. It was in strong and re- freshing contrast with the parched country from which we had just issued; and when, at night, the broad expanse of water grew indistinct, it almost seemed that we had pitched our tents on the shore of the sea. Travelling along up the valley of the river, here 4,000 feet above the sea. in the afternoon of July 1 we caught a far and uncertain view of a faint blue mass in the west, as the sun sank behind it; and from our camp in the morning, at the mouth of Bijou, Long's peak and the neighboring moun- tains stood out into the sky, grand and luminously white, covered to their bases with glittering snow. On the evening of the 3d, as we were journeying along the partially over- flowed bottoms of the Platte, where our passage stirred up swarms of mos- quitoes, we came unexpectedly upon an Indian, who was perched on a bluff, curiously watching the movements of our caravan. He belonged to a village of Oglallah Sioux, who had lost all their animals in the severity of the preceding winter, and were now on their way up the Bijou fork to beg horses from the Arapahoes, who were hunting buffalo at the head of that river. Several came into our camp at noon ; and, as they were hungry, as usual, they were provided with buffalo meat, of which the hunters had brought in an abundant supply. About noon, on the 4th of July, we arrived at the fort, Wi.ere Mr. St. Vrain received us with his customary kindness, and invited us to join him in a feast which had been prepared in honor of the day. Our animals were very much worn out, and our stock of provisions en- tirely exhausted when we arrived at the fort; but I was disappointed in ray hope of obtaining relief, as I found it in a very impoverished condition ; and we were able to procure only a little unbolted Mexican flour, and some salt, with a few pounds of powder and lead. As regarded provisions, it did not much matter in a country where rarely the day passed without seeing some kind of game, and where it was fre- quently abundant. It was a rare thing to lie down hungry, and we liadal- Ill [ 174 ] vered to their ready learned to think bread a luxury; but we could not proceed without animals, and our own were not capable of prosecuting the journey beyond the monntairiS without relief. I had been informed that a large number of mules had recently arrived at Taos, from Upper California ; and as our friend, Mr. Maxwell, was about to continue his journey to that place, where a portion of his family resided, I engaged him to purchase for me 10 or 12 mules, with the un- derstanding that he should pack them with provisions and other necessa- ries, and meet me at the mouth of the Fontaine qui bouit, on the Arkan- sas river, to which point I would he led in the course of the survey. Agreeably to his own request, and in the conviction that his habits of Hfe and education had not qualified him to endure the hard life of a voy- agenr, I discharged here one of my party, Mr. Oscar Sarpy, having furnished him with arms and means of transportation to Fort Laramie, where he would be in the line of caravans returning to the States. At daybreak, on the 6th of July, Maxwell was on his way to Taos ; and a few hours after we also had recommenced our journey up the Platte, which was continuously timbered with cottonwood and willow, on a gen- erally sandy soil. Passing on the way the remains of two abandoned forts, (one of which, however, was still in good condition,) we reached, in 10 miles, Fort Lancaster, the trading establishment of Mr. Lupton. His post was beginning to assume the appearance of a comfortable farm : stock, hogs, and cattle, were ranging about on the prairie ; there were different kinds of poultry ; and there was the wreck of a promising garden, in which a considerable variety of vegetables had been in a flourishing condition, but it had been almost entirely ruined by the recent high waters. I remained to spend with him an agreeable hour, and sat off in a cold storm of rain, which was accompanied with violent thunder and lightning. We encamped immediately on the river, 16 miles from St. Vrain's. Several Arapahoes, on their way to the village which Avas encamped a few miles above us, passed by the camp in the course of the afternoon. Night sat in stormy and cold, with heavy and continuous rain, which lasted until morning. Ju/y 7. — We made this morning an early start, continuing to travel up the Platte ; and in a few miles frequent bands of horses and mules, scatter- ed for several miles round about, indicated our approach to the Arapaho village, which we found encamped in a beautiful bottom, and consisting of about 160 lodges. , It appeared extremely populous, with a great number of children; a circumstance which indicated a regular supply of the means of subsistence. The chiefs, who were gathered together at the farther end of the village, received us (as probably strangers are always received to whom they desire to show respect or regard) by throwing their arms around., onr necks and embracing us. It required some skill in horsemanship to keep the saddle during the per- formance of this ceremony, as our American horses exhibited for them the same tear they have for a bear or any other wild animal. Having very few goods with me, I was only able to make them a meager pre.sent, accounting for the poverty of the gift by explaining that my goods had been left with the wagons in charge of Mr. Fitzpatrick, who was well known to them as ihe White Head, or the Broken Hand. I saw here, as I had remarked in an Arapaho village the preceding year, near the lodges of the chiefs, tali tripods of white poles supporting their spears and shields, which showed it to be a reaular custom. M;f ti mlain, these are shallow, with sandy beds, becoming deeper as they reach tlicTicher lands approaching the Missouri river ; they generally have bottom m ir indispo- s day. recently in turned this e occurred } first time voyageurs. Yesterday 1 ol a beau- region, on ight colors, • hollow in ■ie, a large perceive us n, when he came near g to a rocky off, and we ed up with inimaled by fter he had •thing to our I), according 5 a pinoy ele- 1 the waters ^ J" xnsas livers;, ^- 1 somewhat the neigh- reat prairie [stance of 40 ilain barrier lirectly to its lirie, in vevj tering snow y mind ; and [h occasional fntion, these jTOWth of a (uffalo grass >rs, that part the Kansas, ted, is based mtry is ex- d support a ip accompa- rou that this half of the they reach lave bottom '4 i \\' i! ■ .1 1 ! S i m m i 1 ' ■■;* 11 lands, bo region tli where th ure, it is the west deserves no otiier to the tra border ot tioiis, aiK for whoiT ably corr scending rarely ap there wei one of tlir place the in the sot encampec on inysuli On the which in tected by ing was the camp Turnini the morni encamped river, wht that the s| cing gas ii cold. Du flower, ws ety of esp We had a moon, witi snnset, ws July 13 thermome tains, and We rest tremely g( bayou Sal; the road v to noon ui uriating ot markably several str resemblin§ hitherto se ment of a suit of buf 115 C "4] lands, bordered by bluffs vnrying from 50 to 500 feet m height. In all this region the timber is entirely confined to the streams. In the eastern half, where the soil is a deep, rich, vegetable mould, rnteiinjve of ralu and moist- ure, it is of vigorous growth, and of many different kinds ; and throughout the western half it consists entirely of various species of cottonwood, which deserves to be called the tree of the desert — growing in sandy st'ils, where no other tree will grow ; pointing out the existence of water, and fiirnishing to the traveller fuel, and food for his animals. AdcJ to this, that the western border of the plain is occupied by the Sioux, Arapaho, »nd Cheyenne na- tions, and the Pawnees and other half-civilized tribes in its eastern limits, for whom the intermediate country is a war ground, you will have a tol«r> ably correct idea of the appearanco and condition of the country. Bte- scending a somewhat precipitous and rocky hill side among the pines, wbidi rarely appear elsewhere than on tie ridge, we encamped at its foot, where there were several springs, which you will find laid down upon the mapaa. one of the extreme sources of the Smoky Hill fork of the Kansas. From this place the view extended over the Arkansas valley, and the Spanish peaks in the south beyond. As the greater part of the men continued sick, I encamped here for the day, and ascertained conclusively, from experiments on myself, that their illness was caused by the rseat of the buffalo bull. On the summit of the ridge, near the camp, were several rock-built forts, which in front were very difficult of approach, and in the rear were pro- tected by a precipice entirely beyond the reach of a rifle ball. The even- ing was tolerably clear, with a temperature at sunset of 63°. Elevation of the camp 7,300 feet. Turning the next day to the southwest, we reached, in the course of the morning, the wagon road to the settlements on the Arkansas river, and encamped in the afternoon on the Foiilaine-qui-botiit (or Boiling Spring) river, where it was 50 feet wide, with a swift current. I afterwards found that the spring and river owe their names to the bubbling of the efferves- cing gas in the former, and not to the temperature of the water, which i& cold. During the morning, a tall species of gilia^ with a slender while flower, was characteristic ; and, in the latter part of the day, another vari- ety of esparcette, (wild clover,) having the flower white, was equalfy so. We had a fine sunset of golden brown ; and, in the evening, a very br%ht moon, with the near mountains, made a beautiful scene. Thermometer, at sunset, was 69°, and our elevation above the sea 5,800 feet. July 13. — The morning was clear, with a north v^esterly breeie, and the thermometer at simrise at 46°. There were no clouds aloi:g the momi- tains, and the morning sun showed very clearly their rugged character. We resumed our journey very early down the riVer, following an ex- tremely good lodge trail, which issues by the head of this stream from the. bayou Salade, a high mountain valley behind Pike's peak. The sdil aldng the road was sandy and gravelly, and the river \treil timbered. We haltCNt to noon under ihA shade of some fine large cottonwdods, bUr ariitiikls liiic- uriating on rushes {equisetum hj/emale^) which, aiong this river, >^ere re- markably abutidant. A variety of cactus niade its dpjiearance, and among several strange pldnts were numerous and beautiful clusters of a pl^nt resembling mirahilis jaldpa^ with a hattdsome (Jonvdlvulus I hiaii not hitherto seen, (ca/^5/«^ia.) In the afternoion We passed neai^ the ehtJaJrn^- ment of a hunter named Maurice, who had b^eil out into th6 plains in piiir- suit of buffal6 calves, a number of which I saW amoQgSbme ddmi3Sticcat> I •, I « '! • \r f i n \U ♦ ■ ^'' '• 1 . ■i'i ! : 1 I ]i ] ' 1 i : 1 ', ■ : l| ., i "4] 116 tie near his lodge. Shortly afterwards, a party of mountaineers galloped up to us — fine-looking and hardy men, dressed in skins and mounted on sood fat horses; among them were several Connecticut men, a portion of Wyeth's party, whom I hud seen the year hefore, and others were men from the western States. Continuing down the river, we encamped at noon on the 14th at its month, on the Arkansas river. A short distance above our encampment, on the left bank of the Arkansas, is a pveblo, (as the Mexicans call their civilized Indian villages,) where a number of mountaineers, who had mar- ried Spanish women in the valley of Taos, hud collected together, and oc- cupied themselves in farming, carrying c)n at the same time a desultory In- dian trade. They were principally Americans, and treated us with all the rude hospitality their situation admitted ; but as all commercial intercourse with New Mexico was now interrupted, in consequence of Mexican de- crees to that effect, there was nothing to be had in the way of provisions. They had, however, a fine stock of cattle, and furnished us an abuiidancr of excellent milk. I learned here that Maxwell, in company with twj other men, had started for Taos on the morning of the 9th, but that 'le would probably fall into the hands of the Utah Indians, commonly ca'led the Spanish Yules. As Maxwell had no knowledge of their being in the vicinity when he crossed the Arkansas, his chance of escape was very doubtful ; but I did not entertain much apprehension for his life, having great confidence in his prudence and courage. I was further informed that there had been a popular tumult among the pveblos, or civilized Indians, residing near Taos, against the ^'Joreigners^' of that place, in which they had plundered their houses and ill-treated their families. Among Ih^se whose property had been destroyed, was Mr. Beaubie'-. father-in-law of Maxwell, from whom I had expected to obtain supplies, and who iiad been obliged to make his escape to Santa Fe. By this position of affairs, our expectation of obtaining supplies from Taos was cut off. I had here the satisfaction tl) meet our good buffalo hunter of 1842, Christop..er Carson, whose services I considered myself fortimate to secure again ; and as a reinforcement of mules was absolutely necessary, I despatched him immediately, with an account of our necessi- ties, to Mr. Charles Bent, whose principal post is on the Arkansas river, about 75 miles below Fontaine-quibouit. He was directed to proceed from that post by the nearest route across the coimtry, and meet me with what animals he should be able to obtain at St. Vrain's fort. I also ad- mitted into the party Charles Towns — a n.'itive of St. Louis, a serviceable man, with many of the qualities of a good voyageur. According to our ob- servations, the latitude of the mouth of the river is 38° 15' 23"; its longi- tude 104° 58' 30"; and its elevation above the sea 4,880 feet. On the morning of the 16th, the time for Maxwell's arrival having ex- pired, we resumed our journey, leaving for him a note, in which it was stated that I would wait for him at St. Vrain's fort until the morning of the j86th, in the event that he should succeed in his commission. Our direction was up the Boiling Spring river, it being my intention to visit the celebrated springs from which the river takes its name, and which are on its upper waters, at the foot of Pike's peak. Our animals fared well while we were on this stream, there being every where a great abundance of prUe. Ipit- mea leptophylla, in bloom, was a characteristic plant along the river, gen- erally in large bunches, with two to five flowers on each. Beautiful clus- ing is an a 117 C 174 ] II ters of the plant resembling ntirtifn'Hs Ja/apa wore numerous, and gly- cyrrhiza lepidnta wu8 a ohuriicitirislic of the bottoms Currants nearly- ripe were abundant, and nniotig the shrubs which covered the bottom waa a v«'ry hixuriant growth of choiiopodiaccous shrubs, four to six feet high. On the afternoon of the 17th wo entered among the broken ridges at th« foot of the mountains, where the rivur made several forks. Leaving the camp to follow slowly, I rode abend in the afternoon in search of the springs. In the mean time, the clouds, which had been gathered all the afternoon over the mouiuains, began to rolldowti thoir sides; and a storm so violent burst upon me, that it appeared I had entered the storehouse of the thunder storms. I continued, however, to ride along up the river until about sunset, and was beginning to be doubtful of finding the springs before the next day, when 1 came suddenly upon a largo smooth rock about twenty yards in diameter, where the water from several springs was bubbling and boiling up in the midst of a white incrustation with which it had covered a portion of the rock. As this did not correspond with a description given me by the hunters, I did not stop to taste the water, but, dismounting, walked a little way up the river, and, passing through a narrow thicket of shrubbery bor- dering the stream, stepped directly upon a huge white rock, at the foot of which the river, already become a torrent, foamed along, broken by a smalt fall. A deer which had been drinking at the spring was startled by my approach, and, springing across the river, bounded off up the mountain. In the upper part of the rock, which had apparently been formed by depo- sition, was a beautiful white basin, overhung by currant bushes, in which the cold clear water bubbled up, kept in constant motion by the escaping gas, and overflowing the rock, which it had almost entirely covered with a smooth crust of glistening white. I had all day rcfraitied from drink- ing, reserving myself for the spring ; and as I could not well be more wet than the rain had already made mc, I lay down by the side of the basin, and drank heartily of the delightful water. The annexed sketch is only a rude one, but it will enable you to form some idea of the character of the scenery and the beauty of this spot, immediately at the foot of lofty moon- tains, beautifully timbered, which sweep closely round, shutting up the little valley in a kind of cove. As it was beginning to grow dark, I rode quickly down the river, on which I found the camp a few miles below. The morning of the 18th was beautiful and clear, and, all the people being anxious to drink of these famous waters, we encamped immediately at the springs, and spent there a very pleasant day. On the opposite side of the river is another locality of springs, which a -3 entirely of the same nature. The water has a very agreeable taste, which Mr. Preuss found very much to resemble that of the fiamous Selter springs in the grand duchy of Nassau, a country famous for wine and mineral waters; and it is almost entirely of the same character, though still more agreeable than that of the famous Bear springs, near Bear river of the Great Salt lake. The follow- ing is an analysis of an incrustation with which the water had covered a piece of wood lying on the rock : Carbonate of lime Carbonate of magnesia Sulphate of lime Chloride of calcium Chloride of magnesia 92.25 1.21 .23 n ii\ I'/ :^ II ? [ 174] 118 Silica Vegeta ble matter - Moi&ture and Ipss 1.50 .20 4.61 100.00 *f \m ifi i At 11 o'clock, when the temperature of the air was 73°, that of the water in this was 60.5° ; and that of the upper spring, which issued from the flat rock, more exposed to the sun, was 69°. At sunset, when the tem- perature of the air was 66°, that of the lower springs was' 58°, and that of the upper 61°. mTuly 19. — A beautiful and clear morning, with a slight breeze from the northwest ; the temperature of air at sunrise being 57.5°. At this time the temperature of the lower spring was 57.8°, and that of the upper S4.3°. The trees in the neighborhood were birch, willow, pine, and an oak re- sembling quercus alba. In the shrubbery along the river are cijrrant bushes, Iribes,) of which the fruit has a singular piney flavor ; and on the mountain side, in a red gravelly soil, is a remarkable coniferous tree, (perhaps an ttbies,) having the leaves singulary long, broad, and scattered, with bushes of spirasa arispfolia. By our observations, this place is 6,350 feet above the sea, in latitude 38° 52' 10", and longitude 105° 22' 45". Kesuming our journey on this morning, we descended the river, in order to reach the mouth of the eastern fork, which I proposed to ascend. The 1^ bank of the river here is very much broken. There is a handsome Ultle bottom on the right, and both banks are exceedingly picturesque — strata of red rock, in nearly perpendicular walls, crossing the valley from north to south. About three miles below the springs, on the right bank of the river, is a nearly perpendicular limestone rock, presenting a uniformly unbroken surface, twenty to forty feet high, containing very great numbers of a large univalve shell, which appears to belong to the genus iViocerwmw*, and in the appendix is designated by the No. 42. In contact with this, to the westward, was another stratum of limestone, containing fossil shells of a different character; and still higher up on the stream \yere parallel strata, consisting of a compact somewhat crystalline limestone, and argillaceous bituminous limestone in thin layers. During the morning, wo travelled up the eastern fork of the Fontaine-qui-bouit river, our road being roughened by frequent deep gullies timbered with |Hne, and halted to noon on a small branch of this stream, timbered prin- cipally with the narrow-leaved cottonwood, (populus angustifolia,) called by the Canadians Hard airitre. On a hill, near by, were two remarkable columns of a grayish-white conglomerate rock, one of which was about twenty feet nigh, and two feet in diameter. They are surmounted by slabs of a dark ferruginous conglomerate, forming black caps, and adding very much to their columnar eftect at a distance. This rock is very destructible by the action of the weather, and the hill, of which they formerly consti- tuted a part, is entirely abraded. A shaft of the gun carriage was broken in the afternoon ; and we made an early halt, the stream being from twelve to twenty feet wide, with clear water. As usual, the clouds had gathered to a storm over the mountains, and we had a showery evening. At sunset the thermometer stood at ()2°, and our elevation above the sea was 6,530 feet. lue necess 119 [ "*1 icerumus. July 20. — This morning (as we generally found thf^ mornings under these mountains) was very clear and beautiful, and the air cool and pleas- ant, with the thermometer at 44°. We continued our march up the stream, along a green sloping bottom, between pine hills on the one hand, and the main Black hills on the other, towards the ridge which separates the waters of the Platte from those of the Arkansas. As we approached the dividing ridge, the whole valley was radiant with flowers ; blue, yellow, pink, white, scarlet, and purple, vied with each other in splendor. Esparcette was on© of the highly characteristic plants, and a bright-looking flower {gaillardiix uristata) was very frequent ; but the most abundant plant along our road to day was geranium maculatum, which is the characteristic plant on this portion of the dividing grounds. Crossing to the waters of the Platte, fields of blue flax added to the magnificence of this mountain garden; this was occasionally four feet in height, which was a luxuriance of growth that I rarely saw this almo-'^t universal plant attain throughout the journey. Con- tinuing down a branch of the Platte, among high and very steep timbered hills, covered with fragments of rock, towards evening we issued from the piney region, and made a late encampment near Poundcake rock, on thai fork of the river which we had ascended on the 8th of July. Our animals enjoyed the abundant rushes this evening, as the flies were so bad among the pines that they had been much harassed. A deer was killed here this evening ; and again the evening was overcast, and a collection of brilliant red clouds in the west was followed by the customary squall of rain. Achillea millefolium (milfoil) was among the characteristic plants of the river bottoms to-day. This was one of the most common plants during the whole of our journey, occurring in almost every variety of situation. I noticed it on the lowlands of the rivers, near the coast of the Pacific, and near to the snow among the mountains of the Sierra Nevada. During this excursion, we had surveyed to its head one of the two prin- cipal branches of the upper Arkansas, 75 miles in length, and entire ly completed our survey of the South fork of the Platte, to the extreme sources of that portion of the river which belongs to the plains, and heads in the broken hills of the Arkansas dividing ridge, at the foot of the mountains. That portion of its waters which were collected among these mountains, it was hoped to explore on our homeward voyage. Reaching St. Vrain's fort on the morning of the 23d, we found Mr. Fitz- patrick and his party in good order and excellent health, and my true and reliable friend, Kit Carson, who had brought with him ten good mules, with lue necessary pack saddles. Mr. Fitzpatrick, who had oiten endured every extremity of want during the comse of his mountain life, and knew well the value of provisions in this country, had watched over our stock with jealous vigilance, and there was an abundance of flour, rice, sugar, and coffee, in the camp ; and again we fared luxuriously. Meat was, however, very scarce ; and two very small pigs, which we obtained at the fort, did not go far among forty men. Mr. Fitzpatrick had been here a week, dur- ing which time his men had been occupied in refitting the camp ; and the repose had been very beneficial to his animals, which were now ui tolera- bly good condition. I had been able to obtain no certain information in regard to the charac- ter of the passes in this portion of the Rocky mountain range, which had always been represented as impracticable for carriages, but the exploration of which was incidentally contemplated by my instructions, with the view ! f; K I ih [ ! U 4 W : C >74 ] 120 ■ i. '1 ' ^i^ iSi '. I'l , :1 'll ' Si|! |: ,;■)? ii 1 ri:^ .1 ' ■''■\i 1 ■■ . \m iL m ■ ■ ■ 'IP ill. 1. 6f finding some convenient point of passage for the road of emigration, wliich would enable it to reach, on a more direct line, the usual ford of the Great Colorado — a place considered as determined by the nature of the country beyond that river. It is singular that, immediately at the foot of the mountains, I could find no one sufficiently acquainted with them to guide us to the plains at their western base ; but the race of trappers, who formerly lived in their recesses, has almost entirely disappeared — dwindled to a few scattered individuals — some one or two of whom are regularly killed in the course of each year by the Indians. You will remember that, in the previous year, I brought with me to their village near this post, and hospitably treated on the way, several Cheyenne Indians, whom I had met on the Lower Platte. Shortly after their arrival here, these were out with a party of Indians, (themselves the principal men,) which discovered a few trappers in the neighboring mountains, whom they immediately murdered, although one of them had been nearly thirty years in the country, and was perfectly well known, as he had grown gray among them. Through this portion of the mountains, also, are the customary roads of the war parties going out against the Utah and Shoshonee Indians ; and occasionally parties from the Crow nation make their way down to the southward along this chain, in the expectation of surprising some strag- gling lodges of their enemies. Shortly before our arrival, one of their par- ties had attacked an Arapaho village in the vicinity, which they had found unexpectedly strong ; and their assault was turned into a rapid flight and a hot pursuit, in which they had been compelled to abandon the animals they had rode, and escape on their war horses. Into this uncertain and dangerous region, small parties of three or four trappers, who now could collect together, rarely ventured; and consequently it was seldom visited and little known. Having determined to :ry the passage by a pass through a spur of the mountains made by the Cache-d- laPoudre river, which rises in the high bed of mountains around Long's peak, I thought i. advisable to avoid any encumbrance which would oc- casion detention, and accordingly again separated the party into two divi- sions — one of which, under the command of Mr. Fitzpatrick, was directed to cross the plains to the mouth of Laramie river, and, continuing thence its route along the usual emigrant road, meet me at Fort Hall, a post be- longing to the Hudson Bay Company, and situated on Snake river, as it is commonly called in the Oregon Territory, although better known to us as Lewis's fork of the Columbia. The latter name is there restricted to one of the upper forks of the river. Our Delaware Indians having determined to return to tlieir homes, it be- came necessary to provide this party with a good hunter ; and I accordingly engaged in that capacity Alexander Godey, a young man about 25 years of age, who had been in this country six or seven years, all of which time had been actively employed in hunting for the support of the posts, c in solitary trading expeditions among the Indians. In courage and profes- sional skill he was a formidable rival to Carson, and constantly afterwards was an ong the best and most efficient of the party, and in difficult situa- tions was of incalculable value. Hiram Powers, one of the men belonging to Mr. Fitzpatrick's party, was discharged at this place. A French engage, at Lupton's fort, had been shot in the back on the 4th of July, and died during our absence to the Arkansas. The wife of the murdered man, an Indian woman of the Snake nation, desirous, like' Naomi 121 [ 174] old, to return to her people, requested and obtained permission to travel fith my party to the neighborhood of Bear river, where she expected to ^eei with some of their villages. Happier than the Jewish widow, she irried with her two children, pretty little half-breeds, who added much to lie liveliness of the camp. Her baggage was carried on five or six pack jrses; and I gave her a small tent, for which I no longer had any use, as [had procured a lodge at the fort. For my own party I selected the following men, a number of whom old sociations rendered agreeable to me: Charles Preuss, Christopher Carson, Basil Lajeunesse, Frangois Badeau, B. Bernier, Louis Menard, Raphael Prone, Jacob Dodson, Louis Zindel, ^enrv Lee, J. B. Derosier, Francois Lajeunesse, and Auguste Vasquez. By observation, the latitude of the post is 40° 16' 33", and its longitude )5° 12' 23", depending, with all the other longitudes along this portion of ie line, upon a subsequent occultation of September 13. 1843, to which \ey are referred by the chronometer. Its distance from Kansas landing, the road we travelled, (which, it will be remembered, was very winding long the lower Kansas river,) was 750 miles. The rate of tlie chronometer, siermiiied by observations at this place for the interval of our absence, liriiig this month, was 33.72", which you will hereafter see did not sensibly jjange during the ensuing month, and remained nearly constant during |e remainder of our journey across the continent. This was the rate used referring to St. Vrain's fort, the longitude between that place and the 3iith of the Fontainequi-bouit. [Our various barometrical observations, which are better worthy of con- jence than the isolated determination of 1842, give, for the elevation of ie fort above the sea, 4,930 feet. The barometer here used was also a \\Xqx one, and less liable to derangement. At the end of two days, which was allowed to my animals for necessary Jpose, all the arrangements had been completed, and on the afternoon of 26th we resumed our respective routes. Some little trouble was ex- brienced in crossing the Platte, the waters of which were still kept up by jins and melting snow ; and having travelled only about four miles, we camped in the evening on Thompson's creek, where we were very much Bturbed by musquitoes. [The following days we continued our march westward over comparative lins, and, fordiiig the Cache-d-la-Poudre on the morning of the 28th, en- hd the Black hills, and nooned on this stream in the mountains beyond sm. Passing over a fine large bottom in the afternoon, we reached a ice where the river was shut up in the hills ; and, ascending a ravine, ide a laborious and very difficult passage around by a gap, striking the Nr again about dusk. A. little labor, however, would remove this diffi- |lty, and render the road to this point a very excellent one. The evening ttsed in dark with rain, and the mountains looked gloomy. \Jxdy 29. — Leaving our encampment about 7 in the morning, we travelled Itil 3 in the afternoon along the river, which, for this distance of about miles, runs directly through a spur Oi" the main mountains. [We were compelled by the nature of the ground to cross the river eight ^nine times, at difficult, deep, and rocky fords, the stream running with Bat force, swollen by the rains — a true mountain torrent, only forty or iy feet wide. It was a mountain valley of the narrowest kind — almost ^hasm; and thescenery very wild and beautiful. Towering mountains rose " I I' ' I I i 15 I L ' \ ' fi i I \). •^i I* ■if ':■ y- C 1T4] 199 \ '■' l\ 4h -MS roupd ^bo^t j their sides sametiiues dark with forests of pine, and sotnetimes with Ip.fty pcecipiqes, washed by the river ; while below, as if they inden;. nified tbemselyes ip luxuriance for the scanty spaqe, the green river bot. torn ;yvas covered with a wilderness of flowers, their tall spikes sometimes rising above our heads as we rode among them. A profusion of blossoms on a white flowering vine, {clemalis lasianthi,) which was abundant along the river, contrasted handsomely with the green foliage of the trees. Th{ niountain appeared to be composed of a greenish gray and red granite, whicb in some places appeared to be in a state of decomposition, making a redsol The stream was wooded with cottonwood, box elder, and cherry, mi currant and serviceberry bushes. After a somewhat laborious day, diuiDj which it had rained incessantly, we encamped near the end of the pass ti the mouth of a small creek, in sight of the great Laramie plains. It con. tinned to rain heavily, and at evening the mountains were hid in mists; but there was no lack of wood, and the large fires we made to dry oui clothes were very comfortable; and at night the hunters came in withj fine deer. Rough and difficult as we found the pass to-day, an excellent road jmay be made with a little labor. Elevation of the camp 5,540 feet,] and distance from St. Vrain's fort 56 miles. July 30. — The day was bright again ; the thermometer at sun-'?e 52^ and leaving our encampment at 8 o'clock, in about half a mile we ^ the Cache-a-la-Poudre river for the last time ; and, entering a smooihal country, we travelled along a kind of vallon, bounded on the right byrd buttesand precipices, while to the left a high rolling country extended toi| range of the Black hills, beyond which rose the great mountains aroom! Long's peak. By the great quantity of snow visible among them, it had probably snovJ ed heavily there the previous day, while it had rained on us in the vallefj We halted at noon oii a small branch ; and in the afternoon traveller over a high country, gradually ascending towards a range of btittes,ii high hills covered with pines, which forms the dividing ridge between i waters we had left and those of Laramie river. Late in the evening we encamped at a spring of cold water, near litl summit of the ridge, having increased our elevation to 7,p20 feet. DiiriM the day we had travelled 24 miles. By some indiflisrent observations, on j latitude is 41° 02' 19". A species of hedeome was characteristic along t whole day's route. Emerging from the mountains, we entered a region of bright, faii| weather. In my experience in this country,! was forcibly impressed wiiij the difl^erent character of the climate on opposite sides of the Rocky raou tain rarige. The vast prairie plain on the east is like the ocean ; the raiil and clouds from the constantly evaporating snow of the mountains rushioj down into the heated air of the plains, on which you will have occasion i remark the frequent storms of rain we encountered during our journey. July 31. — The morning was clear ; temperature 48°. A fipe rolling rojilj aniong piney and grassy hills, brought us this morning into a large ita where an Indian village had recently passed. The weather was pleasai and cool ; we were disturbed by neither musquitoes nor flies; and lt|| country was certainly extremely beautiful. The slopes and broad raviwij were absolutely covered with fields of flowers of the most exquisitely beat* ful colors. Among those which had not hitherto made their appearance. ai)j which here were characteristic, was a new delphinium, of a green om our camp, v\ 123 [ »74] trous metallic blue color, mingled with compact fields of several bright- loied varieties of uftragalus, which were crowded together in splendid iifusion. This trail conducted us through a reinarkable defile, to a little ^bered creek, up which we wound our way, passing by a singular and issive wall of dark-red granite. The formation of the country is a red Jspathic granite, overlying a decomposing mass of the same rock, forni- the soil of all this region, which every where is red and gravelly, and Dears to be of a great floral fertility. ^s we emerged on a small tributary of the Laramie river, coming in jht of its principal stream, the flora became perfectly magnificent ; and ■ congratulated ourselves, as we rode along our pleasant road, that we substituted this for the uninteresting country between Laramie hills the Sweet Water valley. We had no meat for supper last night or pakfast this morning, and were glad to see Carson come in at noon with jood antelope, meridian observation of the sun placed us in latitude 41° 04' 06". In evening, we encamped on the Laramie river, which is here very thinly ibered with scattered groups of cotton wood at coisiderable intervals, am our camp, we are able to distinguish the gorges, in which are the roes of Cache-a-la-Poudre and Laramie rivers ; and the Medicine Bow puntain, toward the point of which we are directing our course this after- )n, has been in sight the greater port of the day. By observation, the litude was 41° 15' 02", and longitude 10d° 16' 54". The same beautiful ra continued till about 4 in the afternoon, when it suddenly disappeared, Ith the red soil, which became sandy and of a whitish-gray color. The [ening was tolerably clear; temperature at sunset 64°. The day's jour- was 30 miles. \\me subterranean communication. All these things had made a freqi subject of discussior in our desultory conversations around the fire night ; and my own nind had become tolerably well filled with their definite pictures, and insensibly colored with their ro'nantic descript" which, in the pleasure of excitement, I was well disposed to believe, balf expected to realize. Iiill side. Ai tion of '/,'<{ 'ternoon co fork of thi I at 8,230 feel jr Bear rive s, separatin; the west b( whose rive 1. From \Y n the Missisl inous regionj »ky weathe; The ascei ional road ii istern side one. Sera spectation c but we fouii imped aboi appearand rants havin midst of \\ to the fprti to the Gre willows ai •egion whi( re upon tl the remark le vague ai ul obscuri mean tin o had visit the wond were big e wander! '^ery little s to be foi umental r been m >osed tha m \ # \ . * i I 'T I; Where w breadth, per another, risi Annexed Ic migrant lOi mountains, ' We contin family of en peared to be the fine appe really looked good farm, such a coiinti a security mij in the countr Indians, howi feelings, also, According I was 6,400 fee 42° 03' 47", ai having been 2 rial limit of th valle;, of the ( of the 2ddeg and this is the The temper thunder storm. Antelope an there were due The next m( ed Smith's for timbered with bouchement th mountain hills, to the gate by v Smith's fork hs 500 yards wide route, the river and rocky, and a passage throi We made ou flax was growi fork, one of tht Crossing, in t a beautiful bott of home beautj for several mile grant wagons, c were rising lazi ill preparing the nerds of cattle, 133 [ 174 2 Where we descended into this beautiful valley, it is three to fou.- miles in breadth, perfectly level, and bounded by mountainous ridges, one above another, rising suddenly from the plain. (Annexed is a map of that portion of the river along which passes the emigrant road. In its character of level bottoms, enclosed between abrupt mountains, it presents a type of the streams of this region. We continued our road down the river, and at night encamped with a family of emigrants — two men, women, and several children — who ap- peared to be b inging up the rear of the great caravan. I was struck with the fine appearance of their cattle, some six or eight yoke of oxen, which really looked as. well as if they had been all the summer at work on some good farm. It was strange to see one small family travelling along through such a country, so remote from civilization. Some nine years since, such a security might have been a fatal one ; but since their disastrous defeats in the country a little north, the Blackfeet have ceased to visit these waters. Indians, however, are very uncertain in their localities ; and the friendly feelings, also, of those now inhabiting it may be changed. According to barometrical observation at noon, the elevation of the valley was 6,400 feet ab;>ve the sea; and onr encampment at night in latitude 42° 03' 47", and longitude 1 1 1° 10' 53", by observation — the day's journey having been 26 miles. This encampment was therefore within the territo- rial limit of the United States ; our travelling, from the time we entered the valle;, of the Green river, on the 15th of August, having been to the south of the 2d degree of north latitude, and consequently on Mexican territory; and this is the route all the emigrants now travel to Oregon. The temperature at sunset was 65°; and at evening there was a distant thunder storm, with a light breeze from the north. Antelope and elk were seen during the day on the opposite prairie; and there were ducks and geese in the river. The next morning, in about three miles from our encampment, we reach- ed Smith's fork, a strt ..m of clear water, about 50 feet in breadth. It is timbered with cottonwood, willow, and aspen, and makes a beautiful de- bouchenieni through a pass about 600 yards wide, between remarkable mountain hills, rising abruptly on either side, and forming gigantic columns to the gate by which it enters 13ear river valley. The bottoms, which below Smith's fork had been two miles wide, narrowed, as we advanced, to a gap 500 yards wide ; and during the greater part of the day we had a winding route, the river making very sharp and sudden bends, the mountains steep and rocky, and the valley occasionally so narrow as only to leave space for a passage through. We made our halt at noon in a fertile bottom, where the common blue flax was growing abundantly, a few miles below the mouth of Thomas's fork, one of the larger tributaries of the river. Crossing, in the afternoon, the point of a narrow spur, we descended into a beautiful bottom, formed by a lateral valley, which presented a picture of home beauty that went directly to our hearts. The edge of the wood, for several miles along the river, was dotted with the white covers of emi- grant wagons, collected in groups at different camps, where the smokes were rising lazily from the fires, around which the women were occupied in preparing the evening meal, and the children pla/ing in the grass; and herds of cattle, grazing about in the bottom, had an air of quiet security, ^ !l f '■ cm] 134 mw I and civilized comfort, that made a rare sight for the traveller in such a remote wilderness. In common with all the emigration, they had been reposing for several days in this delightful valley, in order to recruit their animals on its laxuri- ant pasturage after their long journey, and prepare them for the hard favel along the comparatively sterile banks of the Upper Columbia. At the Iftwer end of this extensive bottom, the river passes through an open cailon, where there were high vertical rocks to the water's edge, and the road here turns up a broad valley to the right. It was already near sunset ; but, hoping to reach the river again before night, we continued our march along the valley, finding the road tolerably good, until we arrived at a point where it crosses the ridge by an ascent of a mile in length, which was so very steep and difficult for the gun and carriage, that we did not reach the summit until dark. It was absolutely necessary to descend into the valley for water and grass; and we were obliged to grope our way in the darkness down a very steep, bad mountain, reaching the river at about 10 o'clock. It was late before our animals were gathered into camp, several of those which were very weak being necessarily left to pass the night on the ridge; and we sat down again to a midnight supper. The road, in the morning, presented an ani- mated appearance. We found that we had encamped near a large party of emigrants; and a few miles below another party was already in motion. Here the valley had resunnied its usual breadth, and the river swept off along the mountains on the western side, the road continuing directly on. In about an hour's travel we met several Shoshonee Indians, who in- foimed us that they belonged to a large village which had just come into the valley from the mountain to the westward, where they had been hunt- ing antelope and gathering service berries. Glad at the opportunity of seeing one of their villages, and in the hope of purchasing from them a few horses, I turned immediately off into the plain towards their encamp- ment, which was situated on a small stream near the river. We had approached within something more than a mile of the village, when suddenly a single horseman emerged from it at full speed, followed by another, and another, in rapid succession ; and then party after party poured into the plain, until, when the foremost rider reached us, all the whole intervening plain was occupied by a mass of horsemen, which came charging down upon us with guns and naked swords, lances, and bows and arrows — Indians entirely naked, and warriors fully dressed for war, with the long red streamers of their war bonnets reaching nearly to the ground — all mingled together in the bravery of savage warfare. They had been thrown into a sudden tumult by the appearance of our flag, which, among these people, is regarded as an emblem of hostility ; it being usually borne by the Sioux, and the neighboring mountain Indians, when they come here to war ; and we had accordingly been mistaken for a body of their enemies. A few words from the chief quieted the excitement; and the whole band, increasing every moment in number, escorted us to their encampment, where the chief pointed out a place for us to encamp, near his own lodge, and made known our purpose in vishing the village. In a very short time we purchased eight horses, for which we gave in exchange blankets, red and blue cloth, beads, knives, and tobacco, and the usual other articles of Indian traffic. We obtained from them also a considerable quan- 135 [ 174] tity of berries of different kinds, among which service berries were the mosl abundant; and several kinds of roots and seeds, which we could eat with pleasure, as any kind of vegetable food was gratifying to us. I ate here, for the first time, the kooyah, or tobacco root^ [Valeriana edulis,) the principal edible root among the Indians who inhabit the upper waters of the streams on the western side of the mountains. It has a very strong and remarkably peculiar taste and odor, which I can compare to no other vegetable that I am acquainted with, and which to some persons is extremely offensive. It was characterized by Mr. Preuss as the most horrid food he had ever put in his mouth ; and when, in the evening, one of the chiefs sent his wife to me Avith a portion which she had prepared as a delicacy to regale us, the odor immediately drove him out of the lodge; and frequently afterwards he used to beg that when those who liked it had taken what they desired, it might be sent away. To others, however, the taste is rather an agreeable one, and I was afterwarda; always glad when it formed an addition to our scanty meals. It is full of nutriment ; and in its unprepared state is said by the Indians to have very strong poisonous qualities, of which it is deprived by a peculiar process, being baked in the ground for about two days. The morning of the 24th was disagreeably cool, with an easterly wind and very smoky weather. We made a iale start from the village, and, re- gaining the road, (on which, during all the day, were scattered the emigrant wagons,) we continued on down the valley of the river, bordered by high and mountainous hills, on which fires are seen at the summit. The soil appears generally good, although, with the grasses, many of the plants are dried up, probably on account of the great heat and want of rain. The common blue flax of cultivation, now almost entirely in seed — only a scat- tered flower here and there remaining — is the most characteristic plant of the Bear river valley. When we encamped at night on the right bank of the river, it was growing as in a sown field. We had travelled during the day 22 miles, encamping in latitude (by observation) 42° 36' 66", chrono- raetric longitude 111° 42' 05". In our neighborhood, the mountains appeared extremely rugged, giving still greater value to this beautiful natural pass. dugust 25. — This was a cloudless but smoky autumn morning, with a cold wind from the SE., and a temperature of 45° at sunrise. In a few miles I noticed, where a little stream crossed the road, fragments of scoria/- ed basalt scattered about — the first volcanic rock we had seen, and which now became a characteristic rock along our future road. In about six miles travel from our encampment, we reached one of the points in oar journey to which we had always looked forward with great interest — the famous Beer springs. The sketch annexed will aid in fixing your ideas of the place, which is a basin of mineral waters enclosed by the mountains, which sweep around a circular bend of Bear river, here at its most north- ern point, and which from a northern, in the course of a few miles acquires. a southern direction towards the Great Salt lake. A pretty little stream of clear water enters the upper part of the basin from an open valley in the mountains, and, passing through the bottom, discharges into Bear river. Crossing this stream, we descended a mile below, and made our encamp- ment in a grove of cedar immediately at the Beer springs, which, on ac- count of the effervescing gas and acid taste, have "received their name from hevoyageurs and trappers of the country, who, in the midst of their rude ) ill \ifi-t ) I 4' li 1 1 ft s 'Kl (M C 174 ] 136 and hard lives, are fond of finding some fancied resemblance to the luxu- ries they rarely have the fortune to enjoy. Although somewhat disappointed in the expectations which various de- ncriptions had led me to form of unusual beauty of situation and scenery, i found it altogether a place of very great interest; and a traveller for the first time in a volcanic region remains in a constant excitement, and at every step is arrested by something remarkable and new. There is aeon- fusion of interesting objects gathered together in a small space. Around the place of encampment the Beer springs were numerous; but, as far as we could ascertain, were entirely confined to that locality in the bottom. In the bed of the river, in front, for a space of several hundred yards, they were very abundant ; the effervescing gas rising up and agitating the water in countless bubbling columns. In the vicinity round about were numerous springs of an entirely different and equally marked mineral character. In a rather picturesque spot, about 1 ,300 yards below our encampment, and im- tnediately on the river bank, is the most remarkable spring of the place. In an opening on the rock, a white column of scattered water is thrown «p, in form like ajet-d^eau, to a variable height of about three feet, and, thougli it is maintained in a constant supply, its greatest height is attained only at regular intervals, according to the action of the force below. It is accom- panied by a subterranean noise, which, together with the motion of the water, makes very much the impression of a steamboat in motion ; and, without knowing that it had been already previously so called, we gave to it the name of the Steamboat spring. The rock through which it is lorced is slightly raised in a convex manner, and gathered at the opening into an urn-mouthed form, and is evidently formed by continued deposition from the water, and colored bright red by oxide of iron. An analysis of this deposited rock, which I subjoin, will give you some idea of the properties of the water, which, with the exception of the Beer springs, is the mineral water of the place.* It is a hot spring, and the water has a pungent and disagreeable metallic taste, leaving a burning effect on the tongue. Within perhaps two yards of the Jet-d'eau is a small hole of about an inch in diam- eter, through which, at regular intervals, escapes a blast of hot air with a light wreath of smoke, accompanied by a regular noise. This hole had been noticed by Doctor Wislizenus, a gentleman who several years since passed by this place, and who remarked, with very nice observation, that smelling the gas which issued from the orifice produced a sensation of gid- diness and nausea. Mr. Preuss and myself repeated the observation, and were so well satisfied with its correctness, that we did not find it pleasant to continue the experiment, as the sensation of giddiness which it produced was certainly strong and decided. A huge emigrant wagon, with a large and diversified family, had overtaken us and halted to noon at our encamp- ment; and, while we were sitting at the spring, a band of boys and girls, * AITALTSIS. Carbonate of lime Carbonate of magnesia Oxide of iron Silica ^ Alumina v Water and loss S - 92.55 . 0.42 . 1.06 ■ 6.98 100.00 137 [ 174] with two or three young men, came up, one of whom I asked to stoop (jown and smell the gas, desirous to satisfy myself further of its effects. But his natural caution had been awakened by the singular and suspicious features of the place, and he declined my proposal decidedly, and with a few indistinct remarks about the devil, whom he seemed to consider the genius loci, 'i'he ceaseless motion and the play of the fountain, the red rock, and the green trees near, make this a picturesque spot. A short distance above the spring, and near the foot of the same spur, is a very remarkable yellow-colored rock, soft and friable, consisting principally of carbonate of lime and oxide of iron, of regular structure, which is prob- ably a fossil coral. The rocky bank along the shore between the Steam- boat spring and our encampment, along which is dispersed the water from the hills, is composed entirely of strata of a calcareous tufUf with the re- mains of moss and reed-like grasses, which is probably the formation of springs. The Beer or Soda springs, which have given name to this locality, are agreeable, but less highly flavored than the Boiling springs at the foot of Pike's peak, which are of the same character. They are very numerous, and half hidden by tufts of grass, which we amused ourselves in removing and searching about for more highly impregnated springs. They are some of them deep, and of various sizes — sometimes several yards in diameter, and kept in constant motion by columns of escaping gas. By analysis, one quart of the water contains as follows : Grain*. Sulphate of magnesia - • - - - - 12.10 Sulphate of lime - - - - - •• - 2.18 Carbonate of lime ------- 3.86 Carbonate of magnesia ------ 3.22 Chloride of calcium _...-. 1.33 Chloride of magnesium .--... 1.12 Chloride of sodium - - - - - - 2.24 Vegetable extractive matter, &c. ----- 0.85 26.84 The carbonic acid, originally contained in the water, had maiuly escaped before it was subjected to analysis ; and it was not, therefore, taken into consideration. In the afternoon I wandered about among the cedars, which occupy the greater part of the bottom towards the mountains. The soil here has a dry and calcined appearance; in some places, the open grounds are covered with saline efiiorescences, and there are a number of regularly shaped and very remarkable hills, which are formed of a succession of convex strata that have been dejiosited by the waters of extinct springs, the orifices of which are found on their summits, some of them having the form of fun- nel-shaped cones. Others of these remarkably shaped hills are of a red- colored earth, entirely bare, and composed principally of carbonate of lime, with oxide of iron, formed in the same manner. Walking near one of them, on the summit of which the springs were dry, my attention was at- tracted by an underground noise, around which I circled repeatedly, until I found the spot from beneath which it came ; and, removing the red earth, discovered a hidden spring, which was boiling up from below, with the same disagreeable metallic taste as the Steamboat spring. Continuing up 'Til i (' ■ I ^ !: i [ 174 ] 138 Ivl' :' ! )( 'I M the bottom, and crossing the little stream which has been already mentioned, I visited several remarkable red and white hills, which had attracted tny attention from the road in the morning. These are immediately upon the stream, and, like those already mentioned, are formed by the deposition of successive strata from the springs. Oii i^v Ir summits, the orifices through which the waters hid been discharged were so large that they resembled miniature craters, being some ci" them se.vrdl feet in diameter, circular, and regularly formed as if by art. Ai a former time, when these dried-up fomi. tains were all in motion, they must have made a beautiful display on a grand scale ; and nearly all this basin appears to me to have been formed under their action, and should be called the place of fountains. At the foot of one of these hills, or rather on its side near the base, are several of these small limestoue columns, about one foot in diameter at the base, and tapering upwards to a height of three or four feet ; and on the summit the water is boiling up and bubbling over, constantly adding to the height of the little obelisks. In some, the water only boils up, no longer overflowing, and has here the same taste as at the Steamboat spring. The observer will remark a gradual subsidence in the water, which formerly supplied the fountains, as on all the summits of the hills the springs aae now dry, and are found only low down upon their sides, or on the surrounding plain. A little higher up the creek, its banks are formed by strata of a very heavy and hard scoriaceous basalt, having a bright metallic lustre when broken. The mountains overlooking the plain are of an entirely different geological character. Continuing on, I walked to the summit of one of them, where the principal rock was a granular quartz. Descending the mountains, and returning towards the camp along the base of the ridge which skirts the plain, I found at the foot of a mountain spur, and issuing from a compact rock of a dark-blue color, a great number of springs hav- ing the same pungent and disagreeably metallic taste already mentioned, the water of which was collected into a very remarkable basin, whose sin- gularity, perhaps, made it appear to me very beautiful. It is large— perhaps fifty yards in circumference ; and in it the water is contained at an elevation of several feet above the surrounding ground by a wall of cal- careous lufa, composed principally of the remains of mosses, three or four, and sometimes ten feet high. The water within is very clear and pure, and three or four feet deep, where it could be conveniently measured near the wall; and, at a considerably lower level, is another pond or basin of very clear water, and apparently of considerable depth, from the bottom of which the gas was escaping in bubbling columns at many places. This water was collected into a small stream, which, in a few hundred yards, sank under ground, reappearing among the rocks between the two great springs near the river, which it entered by a little fall. Late in the afternoon I sat out on my return to the camp, and, crossing in the way a large field of a salt that was several inches deep, found oniny arrival that our emigrant friends, who had been encamped in company with us, had resumed their journey, and the road had again assumed its solitary character. The temperature of the largest of the Beer springs at our eii- campment was 65° at sunset, that of the air being 62.5°. Our barometric observation gave 5,840 feet for the elevation above the gulf, being about 500 feet lower than the Boiling springs, which are of a similar nature, at the foot of Pike's peak. The astronomical observations gave for our latitude 42^* 39' 57", and 111° 46' 00" for the longitude. The night was very still and 139 [ 1'4] cloudless, and I sat up for an observation of the first satellite of Jupiter, (he emersion of which took place about midnight; but fell asleep at the telescope, awaking just a few minutes after the appearance of the star. The morning of the 26th was calm, and the sky without clouds, but smoky; and the temperature at sunrise 28.5°. At the same time, the tem- perature of the large Beer spring, where we were encamped, was 56°; that of the Steamboat spring 87°; and that of the steam hole, near it, 81.5°. In ijie course of the morning, the last wagons of the emigration passed by, [oijfl we were again left in our place, in the rear. Remaining in camp until nearly 11 o'clock, we travelled a short distance [down the river, and halted to noon on the bank, at a point where the road I quits the valley of Bear river, and, crossing a ridoC which divides the Great Basin from the Pacific waters, readies Fort Hall, by way of the Portneuf river, in a distance of probably fifty miles, or two and a half days' journey for wagons. An examination of the great lake which is the outlet of this river, and the principal feature of geographical interest in the basin, was one of the main objects contemplated in the general plan of our survey, and I accordingly determined at this place to leave the road, and, after having completed a reconnoissance of the lake, regain it subsequently at Fort Hall. But our little stock of provisions had again become extremely low ; we had only dried meat sufficient for one meal, and our supply of flour and other comforts was entirely exhausted. I therefore immediately despatched one of the party, Henry Lee, with a note to Carson, at Fort Hall, directing him to load a pack horse with whatever could be obtained there in the way of provisions, and endeavor to ovoitake me on the river. In the mean time, we had picked up along the road two tolerably well-grown calves, which would have become food for wolves, and which had proba- bly been left by some of the earlier emigrants, none of those we had met having made any claim to them ; and on these I mainly relied for support during our circuit to the lake. In sweeping around the point of the mountain which runs down into the bend, the river here passes between perpendicular walls of basalt, which always fix the attention, from the regular form in which it occurs, and its perfect distinctness from the surrounding rocks among which it has been placed. The mountain, which is rugged and steep, and, by our measure- ment, 1,400 feet above the river directly opposite the place of our halt, is called the Sheep rock — probably because a flock of the common mountain sheep {ovis montana) had been seen on the craggy point. As we were about resuming our march in the afternoon, I was attracted by the singular appearance of an isolated hill with a concave summit, \i\ the plain, about two miles from the iiver, and turned off towards it, while the camp proceeded on its way to the southward in search of the lake. I found the thin and stony soil ojf the plain entirely underlaid by the basalt which forms the river walls; and when I reached the neighborhood of the hill, the surface of the plain was rent into frequent fissures and chasms of the same scoriated volcanic lock, from forty to sixty feet deep, but which there was not sufficient light to penetrate entirely, and which I had not time to descend. Arrived at the summit of the hill, I found that it termi- nated in a very perfect crater, of an oval, or nearly circular form, 360 paces in circumference, and 60 feet at the greatest depth. The walls, which were perfectly vertical, and disposed like masonry in a very regular manner, were composed of a brown-colored scoriaceous lava, evidently r.'f y\ y? u V ,. C "4] 140 I I Ill i* ii the production of a modern volcano, and having all the appearance of the lighter scoriaceous lavas of Mount ifitna, Vesuvius, and other volcanoes, The faces of the walls were reddened and glazed by the fire, in which ihey had been melted, and which hud left them contorted and twisted by ii, violent action. Our route during the afternoon was a little rough, being (ir» thp direction we had taken) over a volcanic plain, where our progress was sometime, obstructed by fissures, and black beds composed of fragments of the rock. On both sides, the mountains appeared very broken, but tolerably well timbered. jiugust 26. — Crossing a point of ridge which makes in to the river, w. fell upon it again before sunset, and encamped on the right bank, opposite to the encampment of three lodges of Snake Indians. They visited us during the evening, and we obtained from them a small quanliiy of roots of different kinds, in exchange for goods. Among them was a sweet root of very pleasant flavor, having somewhat the taste of preserved quince. My endeavors to become acquainted with the plants which furnish to the Indians a portion of their support were only gradually successful, and af- ter long and persevering attention; and even after obtaining, 1 did not suc- ceed in preserving them until they could be satisfactorily determined. In this portion of the journey, I found this particular root cut up into such small pieces, that it was only to be identified by its taste, when the bulb was met with in perfect form among the Indians lower down on the Co- lumbia, among whom it is the highly celebrated kamds. It was long af- terwards, on our return through Upper California, that I found the plain itself in bloom, which I supposed to furnish the kamds root, {camassia a- culenta. ) The root diet had a rather mournful effect at the commence- ment, and one of the calves was killed this evening for food. The animals fared well on rushes. Jiugust 27. — The morning was cloudy, with appearance of rain, and the thermometer at sunrise at 29°. Making an unusually early start, we crossed the river at a good ford ; and, following for about three hours a trail which led along the bottom, we entered a labyrinth of hills below the main ridge, and halted to noon in the ravine of a pretty little stream, timbered with Cottonwood of a large size, ash-leaved maple, with cherry and other shrubby trees. The hazy weather, which had prevented any very extended views since entering the Green river valley, began now to disappear. There was a slight rain in the earlier part of the day, and at noon, when the ther- mometer had risen to 79.5°, we had a bright sun, with blue sky and scat- tered cumuli. According to the barometer, our halt here among the hills was at an elevation of 5,320 feet. Crossing a dividing ridge in the after- noon, we followed down another little Bear river tributary, to the point where it emerged on an open green flat among the hills, timbered with groves, and bordered with cane thickets, but without water. A pretty little rivulet, coming out of the hill side, and overhung by tall flowering plants of a species I had not hitherto seen, furnished us with a good camping place. The evening was cloudy, the temperature at sunset 69°, and the ele- vation 5,140 feet. Among the plants occurring along the line of road dur- ing the day, epinettes des prairies (grindelia squarrosa) was in considera- ble abundance, and is among the very few plants remaining in bloom— the whole country having now an autumnal appearance, in the crisped and 141 C 174] yellow plants, and dried-up grasses. Many cranes were seen during the day, with a few antelope, very shy and wild. Auguit 28. — During the night we had a thunder storm, with moderate rain, which has made the air this morning very clear, the thermometer being at 55°. Leaving our encampment at the Cane spring, and quitting the trail on which we had been travelling, and which would probably have aflbrded us a good road to the lake, we crossed some very deep ravines, and, in about an hour's travelling, again reached the river. We were now in a valley five or six miles wide, between mountain ranges, which, about thirty miles below, appeared to close up and terminate the valley, leaving for the river only a very narrow pass, or canon, behind which we imagined that we should find the broad waters of the lake. We made the usual halt at the mouth of a small clear stream, having a slightly mineral taste, (perhaps of salt,) '1,760 feet above the gulf. In the afternoon wo climbed a very steep sandy hill ; and, after a slow and winding day's march of 27 miles, encamped at a slough on the river. There were great quantities of geese and ducks, of which only a few were shot; the Indians having probably made them very wild. The men employed themselves in fishing, but caught nothing. A skunk, (mephitis Jlmericana,) which was killed in the after- noon, made a supper for one of the messes. The river is bordered occa- sionally with fields of cane, which we regarded as an indication of our approach to a lake country. We had frequent showers of rain during the night, with thunder. August 29. — The thermometer at sunrise was 54°, with air from the NW., and dark rainy clouds moving on the horizon ; rain squalls and bright sunshine by intorvals. I rode ahead with Basil to explore the coutt- try, and, continuing about three miles along the river, turned directly oflf on a trail running towards three marked gaps in the bordering range, where the moimtains appeared cut through to their bases, towards which the river plain rose gradually. Putting our horses into a gallop on some fresh tracks which showed very plainly in the wet path, we came suddenly upon a small party of Shoshonee Indians, who had fallen into the trail from the north. We could only communicate by signs ; but they made us under- stand that the road through the chain was a very excellent one, leading into a broad valley which ran to the southward. We halted to noon at what may be called the gate of the pass ; on either side of which were huge mountains of rock, between which stole a little pure water stream, with a margin just sufficiently large for our passage. From the river, the plain had gradually risen to an altitude of 5,500 feet, and, by meridian ob- servation, the latitude of the entrance was 42°. In the interval of our usual halt, several of us wandered along up the stream to examine the pass more at leisure. Within the gate, the rocks receded a little back, leaving a very narrow, but most beautiful valley, through which the little stream wound its way, hidden by different kinds of trees and shrubs — aspen, maple, willow, cherry, and elder ; a fine ver- tlure of smooth short grass spread over the remaining space to the bare sides of the rocky walls. These were of a blue limestone, which constitutes the mountain here ; and opening directly on the grassy bottom were sev- eral curious caves, which appeared to be inhabited by root diggers. On one side was gathered a heap of leaves for a bed, and they wore, dry, open, and pleasant. On the roofs of the caves I remarked bituminous exuda- tions from the rock. U '/ li' M ^■^li' ^mk ly C 174 ] 142 iiv The trail was an excellent one fot pack horses ; but, as it sometime: crossed a shelving point, to avoid ihe shrubbery we were obliged in several places to open a road for the carriage through the wood. A squaw on horse- back, accompanied by five or six dogs, entered the pass in the afternoon; | but was too much terrified at finding herself in such unexpected company to make any pause for conversation, and hurried off at a good pace — being, of course, no further disturbed than by an accelerating shout. She was I well and showily dressed, and was probably going to a village encamped somewhere near, and evidently did not belong to the tribe of root diggers. We had now entered a country inhabited by these people ; and as in the course of our voyage we shall frequently meet with them in various stages of existence, it will be well to inform you that, scattered over the gfdt region west of the Rocky mountains, and south of the Great Snake river, are numerous Indians whose subsistence is almost solely derived from roois| and seeds, and such small animals as chance and great good fortune some- times bring within their reach. They are miserably poor, armed only with I bows and arrows, or clubs; and, as the coimtry they inhabit is almost destitute of game, they have no means of obtaining better arras. In the northern part of the region just mentionef', they live generally in solitary families; and farther to the south, they are gathered together in villages, Those who live together in villages, strengthened by association, are in | exclusive possession of the more genial and richer parts of the country; while the others are driven to the ruder mountains, and to the more in- hospitable parts of the country. But by simply observing, in accompanying | us along our road, you will become better acquainted with these peopiii than we could make you in any other than a very long description, and | you will find them worthy of your interest. Roots, seeds, and grass, eveiy vegetable that affords any nourishment, and every living animal thing, insect or worm, they eat. Nearly approach- ing to the lower animal creation, their sole employment is to obtain food; and they are constantly occupied in a struggle to support existence. In the annexed view will be found a sketch of the Standing rock—{k I most remarkable feature of the pass, where a huge rock, fallen from the cliffs above, and standing perpendicularly near the middle of the valley, presents itself like a watch tower in the pass. It will give you a tolerably correct idea of the character of the scenery in this country, where generally the mountains rise abruptly up fro.n comparatively unbroken plains and level valleys ; but it will entirely fail in representing the picturesque beauty of this delightful place, where a green valley, full of foliage, and a hundred yards wide, contrasts with naked crags that spire up into a blue line of pin- nacles 3,000 feet above, some:imes crested with cedar and pine, and some- times ragged and bare. The detention that we met with in opening the road, und perhaps a wil- lingness to linger on the way, made th j afternoon's travel short; and about two miles from the entrance we passed through another gate, and en- camped on the stream at the junction, of a little fork from the southward, around which the mountains stooped more gently down, forming a suiall open cove. As it was still early in the afternoon, Basil and myself in one direction. and Mr. Preuss in another, set out to explore the country, and ascended different neighboring peaks, iu the hope of seeing some indications of the lake ; but though our elevation afforded magnificent views, the eye ranging IS it sometimes liged in several jna won horse- the afternoon; ected company d pace— being, out. She was I lage encamped | if root diggen and as in the 1 I various stages, )ver the grodt at Snake river, ived from roois I fortune some- med only with labit is almost] arms. In the ally in solitary ler in villages, elation, are in I f the country; ) the more in- acconipanyinj | 1 these peoiiltj iscription, and nourishment, arly approach- :o obtain food: istence. ing rock— Ik alien from the of the valley, on a tolerably here generally :en plains and iresque beauty and a hundred ue line of pill- ne, and somC' perhaps a wil- )rt ; and about gate, and en- he southward, rming a sniall one direction, and ascended cations of the le eye rangin? I 1 'f Mb t '' |! 'W over a long exten in the direction o impracticable moi lurned sharply to not lead us away ■ terrained to keep A squall of rain d reached the camp with some lightnii ^uf^ttst 30.— W morning the clond cold, with the thei feet. We were in countering any asi a slight dividing ; along which we o the pass, numeroii umbellus,) which This little a fllue through a more o{ could pass withou entering a more o ing desirous to obt berries, we halted low, maple, servic < which I obti ined indicated a height over to visit us, am kniveS; cloth, vem But they had no £ Irom them, as the"; their winter stock blankets, showing longer tempt then wretched subsistei them to temporar] this nation formerl as we had found tJ tered bands of ant( years, that now, a tew wild anteiopt covered the count; The exiraordini our territories wil scale on which th( exceptions, the bu skins ; every year ofthe buffalo furn where they are s 'liem, and slaugh gance. Like the •l»e Great West ; i 143 [ 174 .] over a long extent of Bear river, with the broad and fertile Cache valley in the direction of our search, was only to be seen a bed of apparently impraciicable mountains. Among these, the trail we had been following turned sharply to the northward, and it began to be doubtful if it would not lead us away from the object of our destination ; but I nevertheless de- termined to keep it, in the belief that it would eventually bring us right. A squall of rain drove us out of the mountain, and it was late wheti we reached the camp. The evening closed in with frequent showers of raiu, with some lightning and thunder, M^tist 30, — We had constant thunder storms during the night, but in the morning the clouds were sinking to the horizon, and the air was clear and cold, with the thermometer at sunrise at 39°. Elevation by barometer 5,580 feet. We were in motion early, continuing up the little stream without en- countering any ascent where a horse would not easily gallop, and, crossing a slight dividing ground at the summit, descended upon a small stream, along which we continued on the same excellent road. In riding through the pass, numerous cranes were seen ; and prairie hens, or grouse, [bonasia umhellus,) which lately had been rare, were very abundant. This little affluent brought us to a larger stream, down which we travelled through a morii open bottom, on a level road, where heavily-laden wagons could pass without obstacle. The hills on the right grew lower, and, on entering a more open country, we discovered a Shoshonee village ; and I o- ing desirous to obtain information, and purchase from them some roots and berries, we halted on the river, which was lightly wooded with cherry, wil- low, maple, service berry, and aspen. A meridian observation of the sun, which J obti ined here, gave 42° 14' 22" for our latitude, and the barometer indicated a height of 5,170 feet. A number of Indians came immediately over to visit us, and several men were sent to the village with goods, toba co, knives, cloth, vermilion, and the usual trinkets, to exchange for provisi.:. ,. But they had no game of any kind ; and it was difficult to obtain any roots Irom them, as they were miserably poor, and had but little to spare from their winter stock of provisions. Several of the Indians drew aside their blankets, showing me their lean and bony figures ; and I would not any longer tempt them with a display of our merchandise to part with their wri'tched subsistence, when they gave as a reason that it would expose them to temporary starvation. A great portion of the iCgion inhabited by this nation formerly abounded in game ; the buffalo ranging about in herds, as we had found them on the eastern waters, and the plains dotted with scat- tered bands of antelope ; but so rapidly have they disapneared within a few years, that now, as we journeyed along, an occasional buffalo skull and a lew wild antelope were all that remained of the abundance which had covered the country with animal life. The extraordinary rapidity with which the buffalo is disappearing from our territories will not appear surprising when we remember the great scale on which their destruction is yearly carried on. Witli inconsiderable exceptions, the business of the American trading posts is carried on in their skins; every year the Indian villages make new lodges, for which the skin of the buffalo furnishes the material ; and in that portion of the country where they are still found, the Indians derive their entire support from tliem, and slaughter them with a thoughtless and abominable ex'.rava- gance. Like the Indians themselves, they have been a characte;istJc of the Great West ; and as, like them, they are visibly diminishing, it will be ■ i,i ■: ! !!' ■9 '•. i*' C 174] 144 ti' 1> : i::i; ■ 'I .! ' interesting to throw a glance backward through the last twenty years, and ijire some account of their former distribution through the country, and the limit of their western range. The information is derived principally from Mr. Fitzpatrick, supported by my own personal knowledge and acquaintance with the country. Our knowledge does not go farther back than the spring of 1S24, at which time the buffalo were spread in immense numbers over the Green river and Bear river valleys, and through all the country lying between the Colorado, or Green river of the gulf of California, and Lbwis's fork of the Columbia river; the meridian of Fort Hall then forming the western limit of their range. The butlalo then remained for many years in that country, and frequently moved down the valley of the Columbia, on both sides of ilie river as far as the Fishing Jails. Below this point they never descendetl in any numbers. About the year 1834 or 1835 they began to diminis,, very rapidly, and continued to decrease until 1838 or 1840, when, with the comitry we have just described, they entirely abandoned all the waters oi the Pacific north of Lewis's fork of the Columbia. At that tirae,the Flat- head Indians were in the habit of finding their bufi'alo on the heads of Sal- mon river, and other streams of the Columbia ; but now they never meet with them farther west than the three forks of tho Missouri or the plains of the Yellowstone river. In the course of our journey it will be remarked that the bufi'alo have not so entirely abandoned the waters of the Pacific, in the Rocky-mountain re- gion south of the Sweet Water, as in the country north of the Great Pass. This partial distribution can only be accounted for in the great pastoral beauty ol that country, which bears marks of having long been one of theit | favorite haunts, and by th& fact that the while hunters have more frequent- ed ilie northern than the southern region — it being north of the South Pass | that the hunters, trappers, and traders, have had their rendezvous for : .any years past ; and from that section also ihe greater portion of the beaver anil rich furs were taken, although always the most dangerous as well as the ] most profitable hunting ground. In that region lying between the Green or Colorado river and the head waters of the Rio del Norte, over the Yampah, Kooyah^ While, and Grani rivers — all of which are the waters of the Colorado — the buffalo never ex- tended so far to the westward as they did on the waters of the Columbia; and only in one or two instances have they been known to descend as far ■west as the mouth of White river. In travelling through the country west of the Rocky mountains, observation readily led me to the impression thai the buffalo had, for the first time, crossed that range to the waters of the Pacific only a few years prior to the period we are considering ; and in this opinion I am sustained by Mr. Fitzpatrick, and the older trappers in thai country. In the region west of the Rocky mountains, we never meet wiili any of the ancient vestiges which, throughout all the country lying upon their eastern waters, are found in the great highways, continuous for hun- dreds of miles, always several inches and sometimes several feet in depth, which the buffalo have made in crossing from one river to another, or in traversing the mountain ranges. The Snake Indians, more particularly those low down upon Lewis's fork, have always been very grateful to ilif American trappers, for the great kindness (as they frequently expressed it which they did to ihem, in driving the bufi'alo so low down the Columbia river. The extraordinary abundance of the buffalo on the east side of the Rocky 145 C 174] m 'I mountains, and their extraordinary diminution, will be made cleurly evH dent from the following statement : At any time between the years 1824 and 1836, a traveller iiTight start from any given point south or north in the Rocky mountain range, journeying by the most direct route to the Missouri river; and, during the whole distance, his road would be always among large bands of buffalo, which would never be out of his view until he ar- rived almost within sight of the abodes of civilization. Atthistime,the buffalo occupy but a very limited space, principally along the eastern base of the Eucky mountains, sometimes extending at their southern extremity to a considerable distance into the plains between the Platte and Arkansas rivers, and along the eastern frontier of New Mexico as far south as Texas. The following statement, which I owe to the kindness of Mr. Sanford, a partner in the American Fur Company, will further illustrate this subject, by extensive knowledge acquired during several years of travel through the region inhabited by the buffalo : . "The total amount of robes annually traded by ourselves and others will not be found to differ much from the following statement : Robes. American Fur Company - ^ - - - - 70,000 Hudson's Bay Company . . - - . 10,000 All other companies, probably .... 10,000 90,000 Making a total of - - ' - las an average annual return for the last eight or ten years. "In the northwest, the Hudson's Bay Company purchase from tho In- jdians but a very small number — their only market being Canada, to which the cost of transportation nearl} equals the produce. of the furs; and it is only within a very recent period that they have received buffalo •obes in trade ; and out of the great number of buffalo annually killed throughout the ex- Itensive regions inhabited by the Camanehes and other kindred tribes, no Irobes whatever are furnished for trade. During only four months of the hear, (from November until March, ) the skins are good for dressing ; those lobtained in the remaining eight months being valueless to traders ; and the jhides of bulls are never taken offer dressed as robes at any season. Prob- jably not more than one-third of the skins are taken from the animals kille'l, jeven when they are in good season, the labor of preparing and dressing the Irobes being very great ; and it is seldom that a lodge trades more thaiv jtwenty skins in a year. It is during the summer months, and in tlie early Ipart of autumn, that the greatest number of buffalo are killed, and ytt .>t |this time a skin is never taken for the purpose of trade." ^rom these data, which are certainly limited, and decidedly withia bounds, the reader is left to draw' his owq inference of the immense imai- ber annually killed. In 1842, 1 found the Sioux Indians of the Upper Platte demontes^ as their French traders expressed it, with the failure of the l^ffalo ; and in the fol- lowing year, larrge villages from the Upper Missouri came over to the moun- Nns at the heads of the Platte, in search of thorn. The rapidly progressive llailure of their principal and almost their only means of subsistence has created great alarm among them ; and at this time there are only two modes presented to them, by which they see a good prospect for escaping slarva* ■■n>, ?^i i: 1 h ■■:. ! i i II { <• ;' I. ■h ■\ K w. [ IW ] 146 i: ;i [- |i^ r ■:tj V ; i« (ion : one of these is to rob the settlements along the frontier of the Stales - uid the other is to form a league between the various tribed of the Sioux nation, the Gheyennes, and Arapahoes, and make* war against the Crow nation, in order to take from them their country, which is now the best bufialo country in the west. This plan they now have in consideration ; and it would probably be a war of extermination, asihe Crows have long been advised of this state of affairs, and say that they are perfectly prepared. These are the best warriors in the Rocky rpountains, and are now allied with the Snake Indians; and it is probaLie (hat their combination would extend itself to the Utahs, who have long been engaged in war against the Sioux. It is in this section of country that my observation formerly led me to recommend the establishment of a military post. The farther course of our narrative will give fuller and more detailed information of the present disposition of the buffalo in the country we visited. Among the roots we obtained here, I could distinguish onlj' five or six different kinds ; and the supply of the Indians whom we met consisted principally of yampah, {anethum, graveolens^) tobacco root, (Valeriana,) and a large root of a species of thistle, [circium Virginianum,) which now is occasionall)' abundant, and is a very agreeably flavored vegetable. We had been detained so long at the village, that in the afternoon we made only five miles, and encamped on the same river after a day's jour- ney of 19 miles. The Indians informed us that we should reach the big salt water after having slept twice and travelling in a south direction. The stream had here entered a nearly level plain or valley, of good soil, eight or ten miles broad, to which no termination was to be seen, and lying between ranges of mountains which, on the right, were grassy and smooth, unbro- ken by rock, and lower than on the left, where they were rocky and bald, increasing in height to the southward. On the creek were fringes of young willows, older trees being rarely found on the plains, where the Indians burn the surface to produce better grass. Several magpies {pica Hudsonica] were seen on the creek this afternoon ; and a rattlesnake was killed here, the first which had been seen since leaving the eastern plains. Our camp to-night had such a hungry appearance, that I suffered the little cow to be killed, and divided the roots and berries among the people. A number of Indians from the village encamped near. The weather the next morning was clear, the thermometer at sunrise at 44°. 5, and, continuing down the valley, in about five miles we followed the little creek of our encampment to its junction with a larger stream, called Roseaux, or Reed river. Immediately opposite, on the right, (he range was gathered into its highest peak, sloping gradually low, and run- ning off to a point apparently some forty or fifty miles below. Between this (now become the valley stream) and the (oot of the mountains, we journeyed along a handsome s'viping level, which frequent springs from the hills made occasionally miry, and halted to noon at a swampy spripg, where there were good grass and abundant rushes. Here the river wa^ forty !oet wide, with a considersible current; and the valley a mile and a half in breadth ; the soil being^enerally good, of a dark color, and apparently well adapted to cultivation. The 'lay hud become bright and pleasant, with the thermometer at 1\\ By observation, our latitude was 41* 59' 31", and the elevation above the sea 4,670 feet. On our left, this afternoon, the range at long intervals formed itself into peaks, appearing to terminate, about t47 I "4 3 forty miles below, in a rocky cape ; beyond whieb, several others were faint- ly visible ; and we were disappointed when at every little rise we did n6t see the lake. Towards evening, our way was somewhat obstructted by fields of artemisiay which began to make their appearance here, and we encao(pod on the Roseaux, the water of which had acquired a decidedly salt taste, nearly opposite to a cafion gap in the mountains, through which the Bear river enters this valley. As we encamped, the night set in dark and cold, with heavy rein ; and the artemisia, which was here our only wood, was so wet that it would not burn. A poor, nearly starved ddg, with a wound in his side from a ball, came to the camp, and remained, with us until the winter, when he met a very unexpected fate. September I . — The morning wassqually and cold ; the sky scattered over with clouds ; and the night had been so uncomfortable, that we wcmc not oa the road until 8 o'clock. Travelling between Roseaux and Bear rivers, wo continued to descend the valley,which gradually expanded, as we advanced, into a level plain of good soil, about 25 miles in breadth, between moun- tains 3,000 and 4,000 feet high, rising suddenly to the clouds, which all day rested upon the peaks. These gleamed out in the occasional sunlight, m lu- lled with the snow which had fallen upon them, while it rained on us in the valley below, of which the elevation here was about 4,500 feet above the sea. The country before us plainly indicated that we were approaching the lake, though, as the ground where we were travelling afforded no ele- vated point, nothing of it as yet could be seen ; and at a great (listiince ahead were several isolated mountains, resembling islands, which they wore tfier- wards found to be. On this upper plain the grass was every where dead ; and among the shrubs with which it was almost exclusively occuiied, ( arte misia b^'^g the most abundant,) frequently occurred handsome clusters of several species of dieteria in bloom. Purshia Iridcutata was among the frequent shrubs. Descending to the bottoms of Bear river, we found good srass for the animals, and encamped about 300 yards above (lie mouth of Roseaux, which here makes its junction, without 'comnuinic.iting any of its salty taste to the main stream, of whi;!h the water remains perfectly pure. On the river are only willow thickets, salix longifolia,) and in the bottoms the abundant plants are car.e:^, solidago, and helianthi, and along ihe banks of Roseaux are fields of malva rohindifoUa. At sunset the ther- mometer was at 54°. 5, and the evening clear and calm ; but I deferred liiaking any use of it until 1 o'clock in the tnorninii, when I endeavored to obtain an emersion of the first satellite ; but it was lost in ;k bank of clouds, which also rendered our usual observations inditferent. Amon;j; the useful things which formed a portion of our equipage, was an India-rubber boat, 18 feet long, mudc :iomewhat in the form of a bark canoe of the northern lakes. The sides were formed by two air-tight cylinders, Hghteen inches in diameter, connected with otiiers forming the bow and Mern. To lessen the danger from accidents to the boat, these were divided into four different compartments, and the interior space was sulKciontly large to contain five or six persons and a considerable weight of bati;;.^ai^e. The Roseaux being too deep to be folded, our boat was filled with air, and !n about one hour all the equipage of the camp, carriage and gun included, ferried across. Thinking that perhaps in the course of the day we mi^Iit teach the outlet 3t the lake, I got into the boat with Basil Lajeunesse, a :rl paddled down Bear river, intending at night to rejoin the party, v.hic)i i;> the mean time proceeded on its way. The river wus frcm sixty to o:;o 'V <- ' i.\ \ I • it-. ; ■!: I :Vi .1! i V i ; ' i : I'! if ^ ■ 'V'i im- M \ .■1 \> if C 174 ] 148 I'il ! 1^ I:,, *« ■:i^ ]i\''' ' !, f i.:«j hundred yards broad, and the water so deep, that even on the conipuratively shallow points we could not reach the bottom with 15 feet. On cither side were alternately low bottoms and willow points, with an occasional high prairie ; and for five or six hours we followed slowly the windinj;; courseof the river, whicli crept along with a eliiggish current among frequent dttours several miles around, sometimes running for a considerable distance directly up the valley. As we were stealing quietly down the stream, trying in vain tc get a shot at a strange large bird that was numerous among the willows, but very shy, we came unexpectedly upon several families ot Root Diggers, who were encamped among the rushes on the shore, and appeared very busy about several weiis or nets which luul been rudely made of canes and rushes for the purpose of catching fish. They were very much startled at our appearance, but we soon established an acquaintance ; and finding that they had some roots. 1 pioinised to send some men with goods to trade with them. Thev hi. d the usual very large heads, remarkaMt! among the Digger tribe " I: r-itted hair, and wore almost entirely naked ; looking very poorano : " ^eri .> o,as if their lives had been spent in the rushes where they were, beyc /:! whio'^ '.hey seemed to have very little knowledge ol any thing. From the few v. urds we could comprehend, their language was that of the Snake Indians. Our boat moved so heavily, thatwe had made very little progress; and, finding that it would be impossible to overtake the camp, as soon as we were sutliciently far below the Indians, we put to the shore near a high prairie bank, hauled up the boat, and cached our etfecls in the willows. Ascending the bank, we found that our desultory labor had brought us only a few miles in a direct line ; and, going out into the prairie, after a search we found the trail of the camp, which was now nowhere in sight, but had followed the general course of the river in a large circular sweep which it makes at this place. The sun was about thiee hours high when we found the trail ; and as our people had passed early in fhe day, we had the prospect of a vigorous walk before us. Immediately where wc landed, the high arable plain on which we had been travelling for several days past terminated in extensive low flats, very generally occupied by salt marshes, or beds of shallow lakes, whence the water had in most places evaporated, leaving their hard surface encrusted with a shining white residuum, and absolutely covered with very small univalve shells. As we advanced, the whole country around us as- sumed thispppearanre ; and there was no other vegetation than the shrubby chenopodiaceous and other apparently saline plants, which were confined to the rising grounds. Mere and there on the river bank, which was raised like a levee above the flats through which it lan, was a narrow border of grass and short black-burnt willows ; the stream being very deep and sluggish, and sometimes 600 to 800 feet wide. After a rapid walk of about 15 miles, we caugLl sight of the camp fires among clumps oi willows just as the sun had sunk behind the mountains on the west side o{ the val- ley, filling the clear sky with a golden yellow. These last rays, to us so precious, could not have revealed a more welcome sight. To the traveller and the hunter, a camp fire in the lonely wilderness is always cheering; and to ourselves, in our present situation, after a hard march in a region of novelty, approaching the debouches of a river, in a lake of almost fabulous reputation, it was doubly so. A plentiful supper of aquatic birds, and the interest of the scene, soon dissij^^ted fatigue; and I obtained during the Uk 149 [ 171 J night emersions of the second, third, and fourth satellites of Jupiter, with observations for lime and latitude. September 3. — The morning was clear, with a light air from the north, and the thermometer at sunrise at 45°.5. At 3 in the morning, Basil was sent back with several men and horses for the boat, Wi ich, in a direct course across the flats, was not 10 miles distant ; and in the mean time there was a pretty spot of grass here for the animals. The ground was so low that we could not get high enough to see across the river, on account of the willows ; but we were evidently in the vicinity of the lake, and the water fowl made this morning a noise like thunder. A pelican [pelecanus ono- crotalua) was killed as he passed by, and many geese and ducks flew over the ramp. On the dry salt marsh here, is scarce any other plant than salicornia herhncea. In the afternoon the men returned with the boat, bringing with them a small quantity of roots, and some meat, which the Indians had told them was bear meat. Descending the river for about three miles in the afternoon, we found a bar to any further travelling in that direction — the stream being s'>read out in several branches, and covering the low grounds with water, >ie' «> the miry nature of the bottom did not peruMt any further advance. vVe /ere evidently on the border of the lake, although the rushes and c les .^'tiich covered the marshes prevented any view ; artd we accordingly encamped at the little delta which forms the mouth of Bear river ; a long arm of the lake stretching up to the north between us and the opposite niountains. The river was bordered with a fringe of willows and canes, mong which: wei'e interspersed a few plants ; and scattered about on tht marsh was a species of ttmo/a, closely allied to U. spicata of our sea coast. The whole morass was animated with multitudes of water fowl, which appeared to be very wild — rising for the space of a mile round about at the sound of.a gun, with a noise like distant thunder. Several of the people waded out into the marshes, and we had to-night a delicious supper of ducks, geese, and plover. Although the moon was bright, the night was otherwise favorable ; and' 1 obtained this evening an emersion of the first satellite, with the usual ob- servations. A mean result, depending on various observations made during our stay in the neighborhood, places the mouth of the river in longitude Wr 19' 30" west from Greenwich; latitude 41° 30' 22"; and, according to the barometer, in elevation 4,200 feet above the gulf of Mexico. The night was clear, with considerable dew, which I had remarked every night since the first of September. The next morning, while we were preparing* to start, Carson jode into the camp with flour and a few other articles of light provision, sutRcient for two or three days — a scanty but very accepta- ble supply. Mr. Fitzpatrick had not yet at rived, and provisions were very scarce, atid dilHcult to be had at Fort Hall, which had been entirely ex- hausted by the necessities of the enn'grants. He brought me also a letter from Mr. Dwight, who, in company with several emigrants, had reached that place in advance of Mr. Fitzpatrick, and was about continuing his journey to Vancouver. Returning about five miles up the river, we were occupied until nearly sunset in ciossing to the left bank — the stream, which in the last five or six miles of its course, is very much narrower than above, being very deep im- mediately at the banks; and we had great difficulty in getting our animals i •■.1::: ;, ( r!-" ,; !it I ■m ,1' :, ■tu 'i W n \^ ! C 'T^ 3 150 ';!'! ,'■ over. The people with ihe ba^ajje were easily crossed In the boat, and uc encamped on the left bank where we crossed the river. At sunset the theiroouaeter was at 75°, and there was same rain during the nim the spring!". [174] At this place the (rail we had been following turned to the left, apparent* iy with the view of entering a gorge in the mountain, from which issued (he principal fork of a targe and coniparativel^well-timbered stream, called Weber's fork. We accordingly turned oiT towards the lake, and encamped on this river, which was lUU to 150 feet wide, with high banks, and Very clear pure water, without the slightest indication of salt. SepUmber 6. — Leaving the encumpnient early, we again directed bUr course for the peninsular hutte across a low shrubby plain, crossing in tHe way a slough-tike creek with miry banks, and wooded with thickets of ihb'rn [c^iitt^S^) which were loaded with berries. This time we reached th6 butte without any difficulty, and, ascending to the Summit, immediately at our leet beheld the object of our anxious search — the waters of the Inland Sea, stretching in still and solitary grandeur far beyond the limit of our vision. It was one of the great points of the exploration ; and as we l6oked eagerly over the lake in the first emotions of excited pleasure, 1 am dt>ubtful if the followers of Balboa felt more enthusiasm when, from the heights of the Andes, they saw for the hrst time the great Western ocean. It wiei^ certainly a magnificent object, and a noble teitninua to this part of our ex- pedition; and to travellers oo long shut up among mountain ranges, a6Ud- den view over the expanse of silent waters had in it something sublime. Several large islands raised their high rocky heads out of the waves ; but whether or not they were timbered, was stilt left to our imagination, as the distance was too great to determine if the dark hues upon them were #odd- land or naked rock. During (he day the clouds had been gathering blatl over the mountains to the westward, and, while we were looking, a stornli burfit down with sudden fury upon the lake, and entirely hid the i^ltinds from our view. So far as we could see, along the shores there was not A solitary tree, and but little appearance -of grass ; and on Weber's fork, a few miles below our last encampment, the timber was gathered into groves, and then disappeared entii-ely . As this appeared to be the nearest pfoint to the lake where a suitable camp could be found, we directed our course to one of the groves, where we found a handsome encampment, with good grass and an abundance of rushes, {equisetumhyemale.) At sunset, the ther- mometer was at 55°; the evening clear and calm, with some cumuli. September 7. — The morning was calm and clear, with a temperkure at sunrise of 39°.5. The day was spent in active preparation for our in- tended voyage on the lake. On the edge of the stream a favorable Spot was selected in a grove, and, felling the timber, we made a strong cor&I, or horse pen, for the animals, and a little fort for the people who were to re- main. We were now probably in the country of the Utah Indians, though none reside upon the lake. The India-rubber boat was repaired with pre- pared cloth and gum, and tilled with air, in readiness for the next day. The provisions which Carson had brought with him being now exhausted, and our stock reduced to a small quantity of roots, i determined to retain with me only a sufficient number of men for the execution oi our design ; and accordingly seven were sent back to Fort Hall, under the guidance of Francois Lajeunesse, who, having been for many y«ars a trapper in the country, was considered an experienced mountaineer. Though they were provided with good horses, and the road was a remarkably plain one of only four days' journey for a horseman, they became bewildered, (as wri iifterwards learned,) and, losing their way, wandered about the country in parties of one or two, reaching the fort about a week afterwards, ^twi 1, 1. - I :!• ■ . I, ! :i ! 1 . )'■, t 114] 152 1 1 '' I 1*! ' ^n straggled in nf themselves, and the others were brought in by Indians who had picked ihem up on Snake river, about sixty miles below the fort, trav- elling along the emigrant rotfl in full march lor the Lower Columbia. The leader of this adventurous party was Fran^'ois. Hourly barumctricnl observations were made during the day, and, after departuie of the party for Fort Hall, we occupied ourselves in continuing our little pieparations, and in becoming acquainted with the country in the vicinity. The bottoms along the river were timbered with several kinds ol willow, hawthorn, and fine cottonwood Itees {populua canadensis] with remarkiibly large leaves, and sixty feet in height by measurement We formed now but a small family. With Mr. Preuss and myself, Car- bon, Bernier, and Basil Lojeunesse, had be*en selected for the boat expedi- tion — the tit St ever attempled on this interior sea ; and Badeau, with De- rosier, and Jacob, ( the colored man, ) were to be left in charge of the camp. We were favored with most delightful weather. To-night there was a brilliant sunset of golden orange and green, which left the western sky clear and beautifully pure ; but clouds in the east made me lose an occulta- lion. The summer frogs were singing around us, and the evening was very pleasant, with a temperature of 60° — a night of a more southern au- tumn. For our supper we had yampah, the most agreeably flavored of the roots, seasoned by a small fat duck, which had come in the way of Jacob's rifle. Around our 6re to-night were many speculations on what to-inorrov would bring forth, and in our busy conjectures we fancied that we should find every one of the large islands a tangled wilderness of trees and shrub- bery, teeming with game of every description that the neighboring region afforded, and which the foot of a white man or Indian had never violated Frequently, during the day, clouds had rested on the summits of their lofty movntains, and we believed that we should find clear streams and springs ,or fresh water ; and we indulged in anticipations of the luxurious repasts with which we were to indemnify ourselves for past privations. Neither, ip our discussions, were the whirlpool and other mysterious dangers forgot- ten, which Indian and hunter's stories attributed to this unexplored lake. The men had discovered that, instead of being strongly sewed (like thatol the preceding year, which had so triumphantly rode the canons of the Up- per Great Platte,) our present boat was only pasted together in a vcrj inse- xiure manner, the maker having been allowed so little time in the construc- tion, that he was obliged to crowd the labor of two months into several days. The insecurity of the boat was sensibly felt by us ; and, mingled with the enthusiasm and excitement that we all felt at the prospect of an undertaking which had never before been accomplished, was a certain im- pression of danger, suflicient to give a serious character toour conversation. The momentary view which had been had of the lake the day before, its great extent and rugged islands, dimly seen amidst the dark waters in the obscurity of the sudden storm, were well calculated to heighten the idea of undefined danger with which the lake was generally associated. September 8. — A calm, clear day, with a sunrise temperature of 41". In view of our present enterprise, a part of the equipment of the boat had been made to consist in three air light bags, about three feet long, and ca- pable each of containing five gallons. These had been filled with water the night before, and were now placed in the boat, with our blankets and instruments, consisting of a sextant, telescope, spy glass, thermometer, and barometer. 163 [ 174] We left the camp at sunrise, and had a very pleasant voyage down the river, in which there was generally tipht or len feet of water, aeepening a» we neared the mouth in the latter part of the day. In the course of the morning we discovered that two of the cylinders leaked so much an to re- quire one man constantly at the bellows, to keep them sufficiently full of air to support the boat. Although we had made a very early start, we loitered so much on the way— stopping every now and then, and floating silently along, to get a shot al a gooee or a duck — that it was late in the day when we reached the outlet. The r iver here divided into several branches, filled with fluvials, and so very shallow that it was with ditliculty we could get the boat along, being obliged to get out and wade. We encamped on a low point among rushes and young willows, where there was a quan* tity of drift wood, which served for our tires. The evening was mild and clear ; we made a uleasant bed of the young willows ; and geese and ducks enough had been killed for an abundant supper at night, and for breakfast the next morning. The stillness of the nig'it was enlivened by millions of water fowl. Latitude (by ob.servation ) 41° 11' 26 " ; and longitude 112° irso". September 9. — The day was clear and calm ; the thermometer at sunrise at 49°. As is usual with the trappers on the eve of any enterprise, our peo- ple had made dreams, and theirs happened to be a bad one — one which al- ways preceded evil — and consequently they looked very gloomy this morn- ing; but we hurried through our breakfast, in order to make an early start, and have all the day before us for our adventure. I'he channel in a short distance became so shallow that our navigation was at an end, being merely a sheet of soft mud, with a few inches of water, and sometimes none at all, forming the low-water shore of the lake. All this place was absolutely covered with flocks of screaming plover. We took off our clothes, and, getting overboard, commenced dragging the boat — making, by this opera- tion, a very curious trail, and a very disagreeable smell in stirring up the mud, as we sank above the knee at every step. The water here was still fresh, with only an insipid and disagreeable taste, probably derived from the bed of fetid mud. After proceeding in this way about a mile, we came to a small black ridge on the bottom, beyond which the water became sud- denly salt, beginning gradually to deepen, and the bottom was sandy and firm. It was a remarkable division, separating the fresh water of the rivers from the briny water of the lake, which was entirely saturated with com- mon salt. Pushing our little vessel across the narrow boundary, we sprang OD board, and at length were afloat on the waters of the unknown sea. We did not steer for the mountainous islands, but directed our course to- wards a lower one, which it had been decided we should first visit, the summit of which was formed like the crater at the upper end of Bear river valley. So long s we could touch the bottom with our paddles, we were very gay ; but grau lally, as the water deepened, we became more still in our frail batteau of gum cloth distended with air, and with pasted seams. Although the day was very calm, there was a considerable swell on thfe lake ; and there were white patches of foam on the surface, which were slowly moving to the southward, indicating the set of a current in that di- rection, and recalling the recollection of the whirlpool stories. The water continued to deepen as we advanced ; the lake becoming almost transpa- rently clear, of an extremely beautiful bright green color; and the spray^ >vhicb was thrown into the boat and oyer our clothes, was directly con* m r 1 t » ml 1 1 M 1 I ^1 \\W r ili i i»5 \ - ; ii> fe? *. lilt ■ r \ II !; C mn 1S4 verted into a crust of common sMt, wWich eovered also our hahds and arms, *' Captain," said Carson, who (c*r some time had br^eh looking suspiciousiv at some whitening aippearaiio^s outside the nearest islands, " what are those jonder ? — wcn't you just take a look with the glass ?'" We ceasied paddling for a moment, and found them to be the caps of the waves that were begin, ning to break under the force of a strong breeze that was coming up the lake. The form <»f the boat seemed to be an admirable one, and it rode on ths waves like a water bird ; but, at the same time, it was extremely slow in its progress. Whon We were a little more than half way ;^cross the reach, two of the divisions between the cylinders ^aVe way, and it required the constant use of the bellows to keep in a sufficient quantity of air. For a long time we scarcely seemed to approach our istand, but griidually we worked across the rougher sea of the open channel, into the smoothier Water under the lee of the islarnd ; and began to discover that what we took for a long row of pelicans, runged on the beach, were only low cliffs whitened with salt by the ^ray of the waves ; and about rroon we reached tha shore, the transparency of thie wdter enabling us to see the bottom at a consider- able depth. It wasabandsomebroad beach where We landed, behind which the hill, into which the isianu was gathered, rose somewhat abruptly ; and a point of rook at one end enclosed it in a sheltering way ; and as there w^s an abundance of drift wo* d along the shore, it offf^red us a pleasant enciimp- nient. We did not suifi^rour A-agile bO.: to touch the sharp rocks; but, getting overboard, di^chapged the baggage, ahd, lifting it gently oUt of the water, carried it to the upper part of th<6 beslch, which was coniposedof very small fragments of rock. Among the successive banks of the beach, formed by the action of die waves, our attentibn, as we approached the island, had been attracted iv one 10 to 20 feet in breadth, of a dark-brown color. Being more cloiiely examined, this was found to be composed, to the depth of seven or eight and twelve inches, entirely of the lariHB of iniecpCar to be •a|.prpdu^tof 4ake8^ ^tmay be Urell to recall to your miftd that ftlr ^alker was ° Associated witK Captaiin 'Boniieville in hi^'expedition to the Rocky ntountains,;' and has ^ince^h&t time remalnetj in the country^' ^n ^r«iry»restding>in«ome'one oPthc Snak^^villag^^j^^en no'f en^a^dd rnon« ^9 and arras. suspicioijgij hat are those ised paddling were begin, tming up the nd it rode on rael> slbw in )ss the reach, required the f air. For a gi'iidually we loother Water we tobk for iffs whirened ed th3 shore, tt a consider- hich the hill, ; and a point there was an sant enciimp- p rocks ; but, lly oat ol' the coaiposed of attion of ^le attracted ly more clossly ven or eight on language, ich had been ling through ph Walker, jarty ol men surprised i e, who aban- them. Be- abandoned peared to be r ; and were Mr. Walker gs had been m their pre- Walker had of f66d ; and 'a jipcar to be ihd that'Mr. iition to thf )untfy^' J^n- ;a}jed in dm • 9 m I i :i 5- «> M ' I ■: 1 ' ' -^ r ik ■ ■'l ijl , ''m 1 ; 1 ; ;f , il: i \§ * '1 ' i i • 1 1^^ ■■ i^-N'^SUl k Il / nf GREAT SALT lAKK xr.uK t: loooooo of his numerous \ the best and brav The cNffs and i criistation of saU orating water, wF the rocks, was co (hiokness. ftapp( of our greateet wj dried in the sun, of very excellent was collected foi insects. Carrying wiih we ascended to th above the lake, the lake, enclose( m»fshy flats and e: placet' came direc Followin,'^ with ot dicationsi of a con^ other rivers ; hut with cf;rtainty. ' 4,00a feet hi|$h, ei position enabled i with the nTiOuntaic usually indicated ( we have preferred precisely as we w niore complete del scale ifr nearly six the extent of our 0| the waters were a spring, it is probal and (he surface of will be indicated tc tains) the view Wi pearing above the vague and undcfin out beneath us, ar hung so much dou us, 1 could hardly ploration ; but the 'ion of the advanc that I was unwillii therefore unwilling isfied for the presc geography of the were the first who Inlands, and broke 'tutie of the place. fell off on every si which is twelve oi 1S5 [174] of his numerous trapping expeditions, in which he is celebrated as one of the best and bravest leaders who have ever been in the country. The cKffs and masses of rock along the shore wsre whitened by an in- crustation of salt where the waves dashed up against them ; and the evap- orating water, which had been left in holes and. hollows on the surface of the rocks, was covered with a crust of salt about one-eighth f.I an inch in thickness. It appeared strange that, in the midst of this grand reservoir, one of our greateet wants lately had been salt. Exposed to be more perfectly dried in the sun, thts became very white and fine, having the usii>al flavor of very excellent common salt, without any foreign taste ; but only a 'ittle was collected for piesent use, as there was in it a number of small black insects. Carrying with us the barometer and other instruments, in the afternoon we ascended to the highest point of the island — a bare rocky peak, 800 feet above the lake. Standing on the summit, we enjoyed an extended view of the lake, enclosed in a basin of rugged mountains, which sometimes left marshy flats and extensive bottoms between them and the shore, and in other places came directly down into the wuter with bold and precipitous bluffs. Followinj^ with our glasses the irregular shores, we searched for some in- dication.Buf 4 communication with other bodies of water, or the entrance of other rivers ; but the distance was so great that we could make out nothing with certainty. To the southward, several peninsular mountains, 3,000 or 4,000 feet high, entered the lake, appearing, so far as the distance and our position enabled us to determine, to be connected by flats and low ridges with the mountains in ihe rear. Although these are probably the islaiHls usually indicated on maps of this region as entirely detached from the shore, we have preferred to represent them, in the small map on the precedingp;!tg«^, precisely as we were enabled to sketch them on the ground, leaving their Diore complete delineation for a future survey. The sketch, of which the scale is nearly sixteen miles to an inch, is introduced only to show clearly the extent of our operations, which, it will be remembered, were made when the waters were at their lowest stage. At the season of high waters in (he spring, it is probable that all the marshes and low grounds are overilowed, and (he surface of the lake considerably greater. In several places ( which will be indicated to you m the sketch, by the absence of the bordering moun- tains) the view was of unlimited extent — here and there a rocky islet ap- pearing above the water .t a great distance ; and beyond, every thing was vague and undefined. As we looked over the vastex|>an8e o< water spread out beneath us, and strained our eyes along the silent shores over which hung so much dount and uncertainty, and which were so full of interest to us, I could hardly repress the almost irresistible desire to continue o<>r ex- ploration ; but the lengthening snow on the mountains was a plain indica- tion of the advancing season, and our frail linen boat appeared so insecure that I was unwilling to trust our lives to the uncertainties of the ,'ake. I therefore unwillingly resolved to terminate our survey here, and remain sat isfied for the present with wh.*t we bad been able to add to the unkiiown geography of the region. We felt pleasuie also in remembering that we were the first who, in the traditionary ardals of the country, had visited the I islands, and broken, with the ehrerfui sound of I. 'iman voices, the long sol- itude of the place. From the j/oint where we were standing, the ground fcll off on every side to the water, giving us a perfect view of (he island, which is twelve or thirteen miles in circumference, being simply a rocky •ii ' : mi ) .1 !' !^-l ■V .4 i:^J ii-;, I 174] 156 l' ' hill, on which there is neither water net trees ol any kind; aUhough the Fremontia vermicularis, which \ is in great abundauc^^ ix:?» jt eerily be niistahun for timber af a distance. The plant seeraed i<3re t. deli utnia conpeni.;' atr, grawing in extraordinary luxuriance seven to eight 1^ i iij|,f, and was very abundant on the upper parts of the islan r wh*»ff> it vasal most the only plant. This is eminently a saline shrub ; its leaves have a very salt taste ; and it luxuriates in saline soils, where it is usually a char- acteristic. It is widely diffused over all this country. A chenopodiaceous snrub, which is a new species of obione, ( 0. rigida, Torr. Sf Frem ,) was equally characteristic of the lower p^rts of the island. These two are the striking plants on the island, and belong to a class of plants which forma prominent feature in the vegetation of this country. On the lowcs partsof the island, also, a prickly pear of very large size was frequent. On the shore, near the water, was a woolly species of phaca ; and a new species of urn belliferous plant {lepto/amia) was scattered about in very considerable abundance. 7'hese constituted all the vegetation that now appeared upon the island. I accidentally left on the summit the brass cover to the object end of my spy glass ; and as it will probably remain there undisturbed by Indians, it will furnish matter of speculation to some futuie traveller. In our excur- sions about the island, we did not meet with any kind of animal ; a mag- pie, and another Inrger bird, prolwbly attracted by the smoke of our fire, paid us a visit from the »|i)ore. and were thp only living things seen durine our stay. The rork constituting the clitfs along the shore n'h?re we were encamped, is a talcous rock, or stealite, with brown spar. At sunset, the tennperature wai 70**. We had arrived just in time to ob- tain a meridian attitude o( the sun, and other observations were obtained this evening, which place our camp in latitude 41° 10' 42", and longitude 112* 21' 05" from Greenwich. From a discussion of the barometrical ob- servations made during our stay on the shores of the lake, '.V'2 have adopted 4,200 feet for its elevation abov« the guK of Mexico. In the first disap- pointment we felt from the dissipation of our dream of the fertile islands,! called this Disappointment islam^. Out of the diift wood, we m.;'' , "selves pleasant little lodges, open to the water, and, after having kin icd .arge fires to excite the wonder of any straggling savage on the lake shures, lay down, for the first time in along journey, in perfect security ; no one thinking about his arms. The even- ing was extremely bright and pleasant ; but the wind rose during the night, and the waves began to break heavily on the shore, making our island tremble. I ha^i not expected in our inland journey to hear the roar of an ocean surf; and the strangeness of our situation, and the excitement we felt in the associated interests of the place, made this one of the most in- teresting nights I remember during our long expedition. In the morning, the surf was breaking heavily on the shore, and we were up early. The lake was dark and agitated, and we hurried through our scanty breakfast, and embarked — having first filled one of the buc'u't^ with water from the lake, of which it was intended to make salt. The suii !iad risen by the time we were ready to start ; and it was blowing i strong gale of winv', almost directly oil' ttie shore, and raising a consider- able sea, in which uur boat strained very much. It roughened as we got away f-om the island, and it rcqui-ed all the efforts of the men to miikc anv head again:! the wind and sea ; the gale rising with the sun, and iheic V^ [At tliP ' ' IOC." of It.:, .villi a clay li llabor, and during (lling, during whic Icourage the men, Ideplh, and the thi Iboat when we fou fa low point of mu( I we unloaded the b I firmer ground I carried the barom the lake. Mr. Pi imiles distant ; Bas [and baggage. The rude looki land boat lying on IFisherman's camp. loBioNE, (0. cooler Igrounds, with intei Iclay soil, with a fe The horses arriv lincreased to such a Iwe were obliged t( |lake had already re as we rode otT, we l| ■The low plain thro compact growth of ■was sandy and salir jbare of vegetation, ppeised among the pie plants were pri ihrub, five to eight I laris,and a shrubby jlhe camp in time to jttere received with been unable to see uneasiness. September 1 1 .— '! pome further obser^ brought from the la jBie, the five gallons lind very white salt M solution. A poi fcnalysis — giving, in ^liloride of sodium Jliloride of calr;iun 'loride of rx:. ^-v-ms 137 [ IM] ,jig^,n, drprol' hping blown into one of the open reaches beyond the island. At ibf (."{a»c? of half a mile from the beach, the depth of water. was 16 lle^: ,>ilii a ch»y bottom ; but, as the working of the boat n-ai vciy f-evere labor, and during the operation of ru»jnding it was necessary to cease p;;'.' Idling, during which the boat Idst consid arable way, I was unwilling to dis- Icourage the men, and reluctantly gavo up my intention of ascertaining the Ideplh, and the character of the bed. 'I'here was a general shout in the boat when we found ourselves in one fathom, and we soon after landed on alow point of mud, immediately under the butte of the peninsula, where hve unloaded the boat, and carried the baggage about a quarter of a mile to firmer ground. We arrived just in time for meridian observation, and carried the barometer to the summit of the butte, which is 500 feet above jthe lake. Mr. Preuss set off on foot for the camp, which was about nine liniles distant ; Basil accompanying him, to bring back horses for the boat (and baggage. The rude looking shelter wc. raised on the shore, our scattered baggage land boat lying on the beach, made quite a picture ; and we called this the IFisherman's camp. Lynosiris graveolens, and another new species of loBioNE, (0. conlertifolia — Torr. <^ Fit,/n.,) were growing on the low Igrounds, with interspersed spots of an unwholesome salt grass, on a saline. Iciay soil, with a few other plants. The horses arrived late in the afternoon, by which time the gale had lincrcased to such a height that a man could scarcely stand before it ; and rve were obliged to ))ack our baggage hastily, as the rising water of the {lake had already reached the point wher2 we were halted. Looking back las we rode otT, we found the place of ;ecent encampment entirely covered. JThe low plain through which we rode to the camp was covered with a Icorapact growth of shrubs of extraordinary size and luxuriance. The soil |«as sandy and saline ; flat places, resembling the beds of ponds, that were Ibare of vegetation, and covered with a powdery white salts, being inter- spersed among the shrubs. Artemisia tridentata was very abundant, but Itlie plants were principally saline ; a large and vigorous chenopodiaceous shrub, five to eight feet high, being characteristic, with Freraontia verraicu- laris,and a shrubby plant which seems to l)e a new salicornia. We reached [iliecamp in time to es-^ape a thunder storm which blackened the sky, and vere received with a discharge of the howitzer by the people, who, having been unable to see any thing of us on the lake, had begun to feel some uneasiness. September 11. — To-day we remained at this camp, in order to obtain kome further observations, and to boil down the water which had been brought from the lake, for a supply of salt. Roughly evaporated over the 6re, the five gallons of water yielded fourteen pints of very fine-grained knd very white salt, of which the whole lake may be regarded as a saturat- ed solution. A portion of the salt thus obtained has been subjected to analysis — giving, in 100 parts, the following proportions : : ' * ! I ! i ;'i 1 ' Analysis of the salt. ;-liloride of sodium, (^common salt) ^Woride of calc-um '^loride of .i. ;.;ne8sum 97.80 0.61 0.24 'ently very good ; but at this time the grass la entirely dried up. We encoJ^iptid on Dear river, immediately below a cut-off, the canon by which the river enters this valley bearing north by compass. The night was mild, with a very clear sky ; and I obtained a very excellent observation of an occuitation of Tau.' Arietis, with other ob- servations. Both immersion and emersion of the star were observed ; but, asour observations have shown, the pho^e at the bright limb generally gives incorrect longitudes, and we have adopted the result obtained from the emersion at the dark limb, without allowing any weight to the immersion. According to these observations, the longitude is 1 12° 05' 12", and the iati- I tilde 41° 42' 43". All the longitudes on the line of our outward journey, between St. Vrain's fort and the Dalles of the Columbia, which were not I directly determined by satellites, have been chrunometrically referred to this place. The people to-day were rather low-spirited, hunger making; them very j quiet and peaceable ; and there was rarely an oath to be heard in the camp — I not even a solitary enfant de garce. It was time for the men with an ex- Ipected supply of provisions from Fitzpatrick to be in the neighborhood ; and the gun was fired at evening, to give them notice of our locality, but met I with no response. September 14. — About four miles from this encampment, the trail led us [down to the river, where we unexpectedly found, an excellent fotd — the Utream being widened by an island, ?nd not yet disengaged honi the hills at the foot of the range. We encamped on a little creek when? we had Imade a noon halt in descending the river. Ti»e night was very clear and [pleasant, the sunset temperature being 67**. The people this evening looked so forlorn, that I gave them permission to [kill a fat young horse which 1 had purchased with goods from the Snake Indians, and they were very soon restored togayety and good humor. Mr. Preussand myself could not yet overcome some remains of civilized preju- dices, and preferred to starve a little longer ; feeling as much saddened as [i! a crime had been committed. The next day we continued up the valley, the soil being sometitr very |!)lack <\nd good, occasionally gravelly, and occabionuUy a kind of naked halt plains. We found on the w.iy this morning a small encampment ot' I wo families of Snake Indians, from whom we purchased a small quantity of kooyah. They had piles of seetis, of three different kinds, spread out Upon pieces of buffalo robe; and the squaws had just gathered al>out a t'Ushel of the roots of a thi.stic, {cin'ium lirginiatntm) They were about the ordinary size of carrots, and, as I have previously mentioned, are swret Jnd well flavored, requiring only a long pre|);iration. They had a ban-' vt' twelve or tifieen horjios, and appeared to be growing in the sunshine with about .as little labor as the plants they were eating. i ti: ^ .^i H V.h t m ,! I. i [ 1T4 ] 160 Shortly afterwards we met an Indian on horseback who had killed an' antelope, which we purchased from him for a little powder and some balls. We crossed the Ruseaux, and encamped on the left bank ; halting early for the pleasure of enjoying a wholesome and abundant supper, and were pleas- antly engaged in protracting our unusual comfort, when Tabeau galloped into the camp with news that Mr. Fitzpatrick was encamped close by us, with a good supply of provisions — flour, riee, and dried meat, and even a little butter. Excitement to-night made us all wakeful ; and after a break- fast before sunrise the next morning, we were again on the road, and, con- tinuing up the valley, crossed some high points of hills, and halted to noon on the same stream, near several lodges of Snake Indians, from whom we purcKased about a bushel of service berries, partially dried. By the gift of a knife, I prevailed upon a little boy to show me the kooyah plant, which proved to be Valeriana edulis. The root, which constitutes the kooyah^M large, of a very bright yellow color, with the characteristic odor, buinolso fully developed as in the prepared substance. It loves the rich moist 5oil of river bottonrs, which was the locality in which I always afterwards found it. It was now entirely out of bloom ; according to my observation, flower- ing in the months of May and June. In the afternoon we entered a long ravine leading to a pass in the dividing ridge between the wateis of Bear river and the Snake river, or Lewis's fork of the Columbia ; our way being very much impeded, and almost entirely blocked up, by compact fields of luxuriant artcniisia. Taking leave at this point of the waters of Bear river, and of the geographical basin which enclo.sesthe sy:?tem of rivers and creeb which belong to the Great Salt Lake, and which so richly deseives a future detailed and ample exploration, I can say of it, in general terms, that the bottoms of this river, ( Bear,) and of some of the creeks which I saw, form a, natural resting and recruiting station for travellers, now, and in all time to come. The bottoms .ue extensive; water excellent ; timber sufficient the soil good, and well adapted to the grains and grasses suited to such an elevated region. A military post, and a civilized settlement, would be of great value here ; and cattle and horses would do well where grass and salt so much abound. The lake will furnish exhaustless supplies of salt. All the mountain sides here are covered with a valuable nutritious grass, called bunch grass, from the form in which it grows, which has a second growth in the tail. The beasts ol the Indians weriut, and at sunrise a cold lain commenced, with a temperature of 41°. The early approach of winter, and the difficulty of supportin^^ a large party, determined me to send back a number of the men who had become satisfied that they were not fitted for the laborious service and frequent y\- yation to which they were necessarily exposed, and which there was reason to believe would become more severe in the further extension of the voyage 1 accordingly called them together, and, informing theurof my intention to continue our journey during the ensuing winter, in the course of which they would probably be exposed to considerable haidshij), succeeded in prevailing upon t» number of them to return voluntarily. These were: Charles De Forrest, Henry Lee, J. Campbell, Wra. Creuss, A. Vasquez,A. Pera, Patrick White, B. Tesson, M. Creely, Francois Lajeunesse, Basil Lajeunesse. Among these, I regretted very much to lose Basil Lajeunesse, one of the best men in my party, who was obliged, by the condition of his family, to be at home in the coming winter. Our preparations having been completed in the interval of our stay here, both parties were ready this jnorning to resume their respective routes. 163 [ 174] nd at sunrise Except (hat there is a sreater quantity of wood used in its construe? ion, Fort Hall very much resombles the other trading posts which have been already described to you, and would be another excellent post oriclierfor the ehai- STalion. It is in (he low, rich bottom of a valley, apparently 30 miles long, ormed by the confluence of Fortneuf river with Lewis's fork of (he Colum- bia, which it enters about nine miles below the fort, and narrowing gradu- ally to the mouth of the Pannack river, where it has a breadth of only two or three miles. Allowing 50 miles for the road from (he Beer springs ol Bear river to Fort Hall, its distance along (he travelled road from ilio town of We8(por(, on (he fron(ier of Missouri, by way of For( Laramie and (he great Sou(h Pass, is 1,323 miles. Beyond this place, on (he line of road along the barren valley of (he Upper Colufnbia, (here does not occur, for a distance of nearly (hree hundred miles (o the westward, a fertile spot of ground sufliciently large (o produce (he necessary quaiUity of grain, or pasturage enough to allow even a temporary repose to (he pmis^rants. On their recent passage, they had been able to ob'ain,at very high prices and in insufiicient quantity, only such assistance as could be afTordcd by a snaali and remote trading post — attd that a foreign one — which, in the supply of its own wants, had necessarily drawn around it somo of the resources of civilization, but which obtained nearly all its supplies from the distant depot of Vancouver, by a difficult water caniage of 250 miles up the Co- lumbia river, and a land carriage by p. ick horses of 600 miles. An Ameri- can military post sufficiently stiong to give to their road a pcrftd security against the Indian tribes, who are unsettled in locality and very uncertain in their disposition, and which, with the necessary facilities for the re]iair of their equipage, would be able to afford them relief in stock and grain from the produce of the post, woiild be of extraordinary value to the emi- gration. Such a post (and all others which may be established on the line to Oregon ) would naturally form the nucleus of a settlement, at which supplies and repose would be obtained by the emigraitt, or trading cara- vans, which may hereafter traverse these elevated, and, in many places, desola(e and inhospitable regions. I subjoin an analysis of the soil in the river bottom near Fort Mail, which will be of assistance in enabling you to form some correct idea of its gen- eral character in the neighboring country. I characterize it us good land, but the analysis will show its precise properties. Analysis of soil. Silica ... Alumina Carbonate of lime Carbonate of magnesia - Oxide of iron Organic vegetable matter Water and loss - Our observations plae« ihk) pofet in lon«ri,i,I ««^ V '^o^ p C 174 ] a 64 1 1 f:. I. b W the valley, the weather being very cold, and the rain coming ir, hard gusts which the wind blew directly in oui faces. We forded (he Portneuf ina stonn of rain, the water in the river being frequently up to the axles, and aboit 1 10 yards wide. After the gust, the weather improved a little, and we encamped about three miles below, at the mouth of the Pannack river on l^ewis's fork, which here has a breadth of about 120 yards. The tem- perature at sunset was 42° ; the sky partially covered with dark, rainy clouds. September 2Z. — The temperature at sunrise was 32® ; the morning dark and snow falling steadily and thickly, with a light air from the southward, Profited of being obliged to remain in camp, to take hourly baronietrie.il observations from sunrise to midnight. The wind at eleven o'clock setiti from the noithward in heavy gusts, and the snow changed into rain. In the afternoon, when che sky brightened, the rain had washed all the snow from the bottoms ; tut the neigliboriiig mountains, from summit to foot, were luminously white — an inauspicious commencement of the autumn, of which this was the first day. September 24. — The thermometer at sunrise was at 35°, and a bine sky inthe west promised a fine day. The river bottoms here are iiairow and swampy, with frequent sloughs ; and after crossing the Pannack, the road continued along the uplands, rendered very slippery by the foil of wetchij, and entirely covered with artemisia bushes, among which occiu frequent fragments of obsidian. At noon we encamped in a grove of willows, at the upper end of a group of islands, about half a mile above the jiniericanfalk of Sniike river. Among the willows here, were some bushes of Lewis and Clarke's currant, {ribes aureuin.) The river here enters between low in'^- ral banks, which consist of a fine vesicular trap rock, the intei mediate por- tions being compact and crystalline. Gradually becoming higher in its downward course, these banks of scnriated volcanic rock form, with occa- sional interruptions, its characteristic feature along the whole line tu the Dalles of the Lower Columbia, resembling a chasm «hich had been ren: through the country, and which the river had afterwards taken foritsbed. The immediate valley of the river is a high plain, covered with black rocks and aitemisias. In the south is a bordering range of mountains, which, although not very high, are broken and covered with snow ; and at a great tiistance to the north is seen the high, snowy line of the Sahnon river niountiuns, in front of which stand out prominently in the plain (he three isolated rugged-looking little mountains commonly known as the Tlu'tt Buttes. Between the river and the distant Salmon river range, the plain is represented by Mr. Fitzpatrick as so entirely broken up and rent into ^iihasms as to be impracticable fora manevenon foot. Inthe sketch annexed, ihe point of view is low, but it conveys very well some idea of the open character of the country, with the bultes rising out above the general line. By measurement, the river above is 870 feet wide, immediately contracted at ihe fall inthe forija of a lock, by jutting pilesofscoriaceous basalt, over which the foaming river must present a grand appearance at the time of high water. The evening was clear and pleas;>nt, with dew ; and at sunset the tempera* ' Ctre was 51*^. By observation, the latitude is 42" 47' 05", and the longi* •;ude 112° 40' 13". A few hundred yards below the falls, and on-the left bank of the river, is the escarpment from which were taken the specimens .':hiit in the appendix are numbered 01, 9G, 07, 101, 102, IOC, and 107. September 25. — ThermomL ?> H Z -n > r p (0 V4- in hard gusts, ! Portneufina the axles, and ed a little, and Pannack river, ds. The tein- ith dark, rainy mornirifi; dark, the southward, y barometric.il 1 o'clock setin into rain. In id all the snow lit to foot, were tumn, of which and a blue skv ue iiairow and nack, the road oil of wet clay, occur frequent willows, at the ^'/lerkanfalhl s of Lewis and tween low mi;- ei mediate pot- g hijfher in its rin, with occa- lole line tu tht had been rent ken for its bed, ih black rocks jntains, which, ; and at a great ; Salmon river plain the three as the Thin ange, the plain ) and rent into ietch annexed, ea of the open e general line. y contracted at alt,over^hich i of high water. >t the tempera- and the longi; and on-the left the specimens G, and 107. came in clear, m '«. f% Ml Mi U I (', I nil with a strong njcrht. The n small falls. G tered cedars, v and encamped of which was the last three < pearance. Or at evening wa; cated an eleva September 2' 42°. Travellii stream, to whic many falls whi calcareous tufa reeds and mos! The road al( imagining that followed for se ue reached a | place in the ra diately aware t pany with whc Missouri, and v nia under the d no practicable in the territory ficulty in attemj with the desert to take a more' r and Fort Hal),. to a great mass iinown as the < considered as | Various considi a greater portio stores, were no had engaged to what is called 1 known only to theSan Joaquir there were woi time in which t lay through a c very poor in g ■ ! ii H have reached the point of the mountain, at a plice which hud been pre- viously agreed upon. In the course of our narrative, we shall be able to s^ive you sonrte information of the foitune which attended the movements K>f these adventurous travellers. Having discovered our error, we immediately regained the line along the river, which the road quitted about noon, and encamped at 5 o'clock on a stream called Raft river, {Riviere aux Cajeux,) having travelled only 13 miles. In the north, the Salmon river mountains are visible at a very far distance ; and on the left, the ridge in which Raft river heads is about 20 miles distant, rocky, and tolerably high. Thermometer at sunrat 44° with a partially clouded sky, and a sharp wind from the SW. September 27. — It was now no longer possible, as in our previous journey, 1o travel regularly every day, and find at any moment a convenient place for repose at noon or a camp at night; but the halting places were now generally fixed along the road, by the nature of the country, at places where, with water, there was a little scanty grass. Since leaving the American falls, the road had frequently been very bad ; the many short, steep ascents, exhausting the strength of our worn-out animals, requiring always at such places the assistance of the men to get up each cart, one by one ; and our progress with twelve or fourteen wheeled carriages, though light and made fof the purpose, in such a rocky country, was extremely slow ; and I again determined to gain time by a division of the camp. Accordingly, to day the parties again separated, constituted very much as before — Mr. Fitzpat- rick remaining in charge of the heavier baggage. The morning was calm and clear, with a white frost, and the tempera- ture at sunrise 24°. To-day the country had a very forbidding appearance ; and, after travel- ling 20 miles over a slightly undulating plain, we encamped at a consider- able spring, called Swamp creek, rising in low grounds near the point of a spur from the mountain. Returning with a small party in a starving con- dition from the westward 12 or 14 years since, Carson had met here three or four buffalo bulls, two of which were killed. They were among the pioneers which had made the experiment of colonizing in the valley of the Columbia, and which had failed, as heretofore slated. At sunset the ther- mometer was at 46°, and the evening was overci'st, with a cold wind from the SE., and to-night we had only sage for fire wood. Mingled with the artemisia was a shrubby and thorny chcnopodiaceous plant. September 28. — Thermometer at sunrise 40*^. The wind rose early to a gale from the west, with a v-ery cold driving rain ; and, after an uncom- fortable day's ride of 25 miles, we were glad when at evening we found a sheltered camp, where there was an abundance uf wood, at some elevated rocky islands covered with cedar, near the commencement of another long -canon of the river. With the exception of a short detention at a deep little stream called Goose creek, and some occasional rocky places, we had to- day a very good road ; but the country has a barren appearance, sandy, and .densely covered with the artemisias from the banks of the river to the foot of the mountains. Here 1 remarked, among the sage bushes, green bunches of what is called the second growth of grass. The river to-day has had a smooth appearance, free from rapids, with a low, sandy hill slope bordering the bottoms, in which there is a little good soil. Thermometer at sunset 45"^, blowing a gale, and disagreeably cold. "it September 29. — The thermometer &t sunrise 36°, with a bright sun. and ad been pre- ill be able to 3 movements he line along at 5 o'clock ravelled only ible at a very eatls is about U sunrat 44°, 'ious journey, venient place BS were now places where, he American steep ascents, Iways at such one ; and our ight and made ' ; and I again iingly, to day -Mr. Fitzpat- i the tempera- 1, after travel- at a consider- • the point of a starving con- net here three re among the J valley of the nset the ther- old wind from igled with the rose early to ter an uncom- ng we found a some elevated f another long at a deep little ?s, we had to- ce, sandy, and ver to the foot ;reen bunches day has had a ope bordering leter at sunset iright sun, and 5: II ! ■ ir ii 1 u J ] ,1 t {I i !'f nil OUTLtT OF SUB TERRANIAN RIVER appearance ol rocky, and coi hei leveryg covu !(! the ri form tint of ds ance. All th< black volcanic pointing out it mountains wh the lower one river inountair we encamped ble water, a si September i the river, this places along tl comes extremi twenty feet wi( covered with i bottom. The rocks are incri the emigrants creek were w! marked in the wards evening cupied by tufts a trough or ope wagons which had done, on t soil among the bottom along t leaves accessit found some tol Immediately the face of the the views ann( representation which form its melancholy anc fire. We had bro gaunt ox, in a| joy of the peoj currencesj the now made an ( as this, our me was 66°, with the evening, tl tude 42° 38' 4 October 1.— raometer at 55*^ the purpose of 167 C "4] appearance of finer weather. The road for several miles was extremely rockf, and consequently bad ; but, entering after this a sandy coantry, it be' ne very good, with no other interruption than the sage bushes, which cov^ id the river plain so far as the eye could reach, and, with their uni- form tint of dark gray, gave to the country a gloomy and sombre appear- ance. All the day the course of the river has been between walb of the black volcanic rock, ^ dark line of the escarpment on the opposite side pointing out its coi:rse, and sweeping along in foam at places where the mountains which border the valley present always on the left two ranges, the lower une a spur of the higher ; and, on the opposite side, the Salmon river mountains aro visible at a great distance. Having made 24 miles, we encamped ahoui 5 o'clock on Rock creek — a stream having considera- ble water, a swift current, and wooded with willow. September 30. — Thermometer at sunrise 28°. In its progress towards the river, this creek soon enters a chasm of the volcanic rock, which in places along the wall presents a columnar appearance ; and the road be- comes extremely rocky whenever it passes near its banks. It is only about twenty feet wide where the road crosses it, with a deep bed, and steep banks, covered with rocky fragments, with willows and a little grass on its narrow bottom. The soil appears to be full of calcareous matter, with which the rocks are incrusted. The'fragments of rock which had been removed by the emigrants in making a road where we ascended from the bed of this creek were whitened with lime ; and during the afternoon's march I re- marked in the soil a considerable quantity of calcareous concretions. To- wards evening the sages became more sparse, and the clear spaces were oc- cupied by fufts of green grass. The river still continued its course through a trough or open canon ; and towards sunset we followed the trail of several wagons which had turned in towards Snake river, and encamped, as they had done, on the top of the escarpment. There was no grass here, the soil among the sage being entirely naked ; but there is occasionally a little bottom along the river, which a short ravine of rocks, at rare intervals, leaves accessible ; and by one of these we drove our animals down, and lound some tolerably good grass bordering the water. Immediately opposite to us, a subterranean river bursts out directly from* the face of the escarpment, and falls in white foam to the river below. Id ihe views annexed, you will find, with a sketch of this remarkable fall, a representation of the mural precipices which enclose the main river, and which form its characteristic feature along a great portion of its course. A melancholy and strange-looking country— one of fracture, and violence, and fire. We had brought with us, when we separated from the camp, a large gaunt ox, in appearance vory poor ; but, being killed to-night, to the great joy of the people, he was found to be remarkably fat. As usual at such oc- currences, the evening was devoted to gayety and feasting ; abundant fare now made an epoch among us ; and in this laborious life, in such a country as this, our men had but little else to enjoy. The temperature at sunset was 66°, wfth a clear sky and a very high wind. By the observation of the evening, the encampment was in longitude 114° 25' 04", and in lati- tude 42° 38' 44". October 1. — The morning clear, with wind from the west, and the ther- mometer at 55°. We descended to the bottom, taking with us the boat, for the purpose of visiting the fall in the opposite cliffs ; and while it was being .^f.ifi '^ . :■ i' •I ,3 ''' g:: f i: : r. $■■ ii Myj^ [174] 168 Ri !l I i' I I filled with mV, we occu|>l6d oUrydves in measuring the river, which is 1, IPS' feet in breadth, with banks 200 feet hij;h. We were surprised, on our Ari^rv&i «t the uppnsite side, to find a beautiful basin of clear water, formed by th6 falling river, around which the locks were whitened by somesuline incmstation. Mere the Indians had constructed wicker dams, although j waft informed that the salmon do not ascend the river so far ; and its char- JKltei below would apparently render it impracticable. The ascent of the steep hill side was rendered a little difficult by a dense growth of shrubs and fields of cane ; and there were frequent hidden crev- ices among tiiG rocks, where the water was heard rushing below ; but we sucdeeded in reaching the main stream, which, issuing from between strata of thie trap rock in two principal branches, produced almost immediately a torrent, 22 feet wide, and white with foam. It is a picturesque spot of sin- gular beauty ; overshaded by bushes, from under which the torrent glances, tumbling into the white basin below where the clear water contrasted beau- tifuli'y with the muddy stream of the river. Its outlet was covered with a rawk growth of canes, and a variety of unusual plants, and nettles, (wr^'ca candbina,) which, before they were noticed, had set our handd and arms on fife. The temperature of the spring was 58®, while that of the river w^S i51 °. The perpendicular height of the place at which this stream issues is 46 feet above the river, and 152 feet below the summit of the precipice, malkirtg nearly 2(H) feet for the height of the wall. On the hill side here, wftis bbtained the specimen designated by the number 12 in the collection, corisisting principally of fragments of the shells of small Crustacea, and whitfh was probably fonned by deposition from these springs proceeding f^Otti Sdrae lake or river in the highlands above. We resumed bur journey at noon, the day being hot and bright; and, atfteli* a march of 17 miles, encamped at sunset on the river, near several todjges of Snake Indians. 04r e^bampment was about one mile below the Pishing fdlls, a series of cafttiriacts with very inclined planes, which are probably so named because they form a barrier to the ascent of the salmon ; and the great fisheries from which the inhabitants of this barren region almost entirely derive a subsistence commence at this place. These appeared to be unusually gay s^ag^es, fond of loud laughter; and, in their apparent good nature and merry character, struck me as being entirely different from the Indians we had been accustomed to see. From several who visited oUr camp in the evening, we purchased, in exchange for goods, dried salmon. At this season they are not very fat, but we were easily pleased. The Indians made us comprehend, that when the saUqon cane up the river in the spring, they are so abundant that they merely throw in their spears at random, certain of bringing out a fish. These poor people are but slightly provided with winter clothing; there is but little game to furnish skins for the purpose ; and of a little animal whibh seemed to be the most numerous, it required 20 skins to make a covering to the knees. But Ihey are still a joyous talkative race, who grow fat and become poor with the salmon, which at least never fail thfeib — the dried being used in the absence of the fresh. We are encamped immediately on the river bank, and with the salmon jumping up out of the water, and Indians paddling about in boats made of rushes, or laughing around the fires, the camp to-night has quite a lively appearance. The river at^this place is more open than for some distance above ; and, lb-9 c i*n for the time, (he black precipices have disappeared, and no calcareous mtt- ter is visible in the soil. The thermometer at sunset 74° ; clear and eattn. October 2. — The sun..5e temperature was 48°; the weather clear and calm. Shortly a(ter leaving the encampment, we crossed a siream of clear water, with a variable breadth of 10 to 25 yards, broken by rapids,andliehtlr wooded with willow, and having a little grass on its smalt bottom lancf.. the barrenness of the country is in fine contrast to-day with the mingled beauty and grandeur of the river, which is more open than hitherto, with a constant succession of falls and rapids. Over the edge of the black clilTs, and out from their faces, are falling numberless streams and springs; and all the line of the river is in motion with the piny of the Water. In about seven miles we reached the most beautiful and picturesque fall I had seen on the river. On the opposite side, the vertical fall is perhaps 18 feet high ; and nearer, the sheet of foaming water is divided and broken into cataracts, whdre seve- ral little islands on the brink and in the river above give it much pictu- resque beauty, and make it one of those places the traveller turns again and agaiu to fix in his memory. There were several lodges of Indians here, from whom we traded salmon- Below this place the river makes a remark- able bend ; and the road, ascending the lidge, gave us a tine view of the river below, intersected at many places by numerous fish dams. In the north, about 50 miles distant, were some high snowy peaks of the Salmon river mountains ; and in (he northeast, the last peak of the raoge was visible at the distance of perhaps 100 miles or more. The river hills consist of very broken massesof sand, covered every where with the same interminable fields of sage, and occasionally the road is very heavy. We now very fre- quently saw Indians, who were strung along the river at every little rapid where fish are to be caught, and the cry haggai, haggaif (fish,) was con- staatly heard whenever we passed near their huts, or met thetn in the road> Very many of them were oddly and partially dressed in overcoat, shirt, waistcoat, or pantaloons, or whatever article of clothing they had been able 10 procure in trade from the emigrants ; for we had now entirely quitted tuecountry where hawk's bells, beads, and vermilion, were the current coin, and found that here only useful articles, and chiefly clothing, were in great request. These, however, are eagerly sought after ; and for a few trifling pieces of clothing, travellers may procure food sufficient to carry them ta the Columbia. We made a long stretch across the upper plain, and encamped on the bluff, where the grass was very green and good; the soil of the upper plains containing a considerable proportion of calcareous matter. This green freshness of the grass was very remarkable for the season of the year. Again we heard the roar of a fall in the river below, where the water in an unbroken volume goes over a descent of several feet. The night is clear, and the weather continues very warm and pleasant, with a sunset tempera- ture of 70°. October 3. — The morning was pleasant, with a temperature at sunrise of 42°. The road was broken by ravines among the hills, and in one of these, which made the bed of a dry creek, i found a fragmentary stratum, or brecciated conglomerate, consisting of flinty slate pebbles, with frag- ments of limestone containing fossil shells, which will be found described I in the appendix under the numbers 16, 21, and 39. On the left, the mountains are visible at the distance of twenty or thirty ■, I i. ■ifi C 174] 170 i ill m miles, appearing smooth and rather low ; but at intervals higher penkslook out from beyond, and indicate that the main ridge, which we are leavini with the course of the river, and which forms the northern boundary of the Great Basin, still maintains its elevation. About 2 o'clock we ar- rived at the ford where the road crosses to the right bank of Snake river. An Indian was hired to conduct us through the ford, which proved imprac* ticable for us, the water sweeping away the howitzer and nearly drownint the mules, which we were obliged to ext. icaie by cutting them out of the harness. The river here is expanded into a little bay, in which thereare two islands, across which is the road of the ford ; and the emigrants hn'l passed by placing two of their heavy wagons abreast of each other, so as to oppose a considerable mass against the body of water. The Indians informed us that one of the men, in attempting to turn some cattle which had taken a wrong direction, was carried off by the current and drowned. Since their passage, the water had risen considerably ; but, fortunately, we had a resource in a boat, which was filled with air and launched; and at seven o'clock we were safely encamped on the opposite bank, the animals swimming across, and the carriage, howitzer, and baggage of the camp, being carried over in the boat. At the place where we crossed, above the islands, the liver had narrowed to a breadth of 1,049 (eetby measurement, the greater portion of which was from six to eight feet deep. We were obliged to make our camp where we landed, among the Indian lodges, which are semicircular huts made of willow, thatched over with straw, and open to the sunny south. By observation, the latitude of our encamp- ment on the right bank of the river was 42° 55' 58" ; chronometric longi- tude 115° 04' 46", and the travelled distance from Fort Hall 208 miles. October 4. — Calm pleasant day, with the thermometer at sunrise at 47°, Leaving the river at a considerable distance to the left, and following; up the bed of a rocky creek, with occasional holes of water, in about six miles we ascended, by a long and rather steep hill, to a plain 600 feet above the river, over which we continued to travel during thne day, having a broken ridge 2,000 or 3,000 feet high on the right. The plain terminates, where we ascended, in an escarpment of vesicular trap rock, which supplies the fragments of the creek below. The sky clouded over, with a strong wind from the northwest, with a few drops of rain and occasional sunlight, threat- ening a change. Artemisia still covers the plain, but Pvrahid tridentata makes its appear- ance here on the hill sides and on bottoms of the creeks — quite a tree in size, and larger than the artcmisia. We crossed several hollows with a little water in them, and improved g^ass; and, turning off from the road in the afternoon in search of water, travelled about three miles up the bedof a willow creek, towards the mountain, and found a good encampment, with wood and grass, and little ponds of water in the bed of the creek; which must be of more importance at other seasons, as we found there several old fixtures for fishing. There were many holes on the creek prairie, which had been made by the diggers in search of roots. Wind increased to a violent gale from the NW., with a temperature at sunset of 5T. October 5. — The morning was calm and clear, and at sunrise the ther- mometer was at 32°. The road to-day was occasionally extremely rocky, with hard volcanic fragments, and our travelling very slow. In about nine miles the road brought us to a group of smoking hot springs, with a tern* 171 [ 174] j)eratare of 164°. There wore a fewhelianthi in bloom, with iome other low planta, and the place was green round about ; the ground warm, and the air pleasant, with asummor atiiiusphere that was very grntuful in a day of high and cold searching wind. The rocks were covered with a white and red incrustation ; and the water has on the tongue the same unpleas* ant effect as that of the Basin spring on Bear river. They form several branches, and bubble up with force enough to raise the small pebbles seve- ral inches. The following is an analysis of the deposite with which the rocks are incrusted . Analjjais. Silica Carbonate of lime • Carbonate of magnesia Oxide of iron Alumina Chloride of sodium, &c. Sulphate of soda Sulphate of lime, &c. Organic vegetable matter Water and loss 72.65 14.60 i.ieo 4.65 0.70 - 1.10 ■ 6.20 100.00 These springs are near the foot of the ridge, (a dark and rug&;ed looking mountain,) in which some of the nearer rocks have a reddish appearance, and probably consist of a reddish- brown trap, fr^raents of which were scattered along the road after leaving the spring. The road was now about to cross the point of this mountain, which we judged to be a spur from the Salmon river range. We crossed a small creek, and encamped about sunset on a stream, which is probably Lake river. This is a small stream, 2orae live or six feet broad, with a swift current, timbered principally with willows and some few cotton woods. Along the banks were canes, rose bushes, and clematis, with Purshia tridentata and artemisias on the upper bottom. The sombre appearance of the country is somewhat relieved in coming unexpectedly from the dark rocks upon these green and wooded watercourses, sunk in chasms ; and, in the spring, the contrasted effect must make them beautiful. The thermometer at sunset 47% an^ the night threatening snow. October 6. — The morning warm, the thermometer 46° at sunrise, and sky entirely clouded. After travelling about three milesoveranextremely rocky road, the volcanic fragnients began to disappear ; and, entering among the bills at the point of the mountain, we found ourselves suddenly in a granite country. Here, the character of the vegetation was very much changed ; the arteraisia disappeared almost entirely, showing only at intervals towards the close of the day, and was replaced by Purshia tridentata, with- flowering I shrubs, and small fields oidieleria divaricata^ which gave bloom and gayety fo the hills. These were every where covered with a fresh and green short grass, like that of the early spring. This is the fall or second growth, the dried grass having been burnt off by the Indians ; and wherever the fire 18 passed, the bright-green color is universal. The soil among the hills ( 6 'KU 'T; It r ,' t. C »74 ] 172 m 'f ;:.( ■;: 3 •! s- ■"* i:< i is altogether different from (hat of the river plain, being in many places black, in others sandy and gravelly, but of a firm and good character, ap. pearing to result from the decomposition of the granite rocks, which is pro ccediiig rapidly. In quitting for a time ihe ar^eraisia (sage) through which we had been so lung voyaging, and the sombre appearance of which is so discouraging I have to remark, that I have been informed that in IVfexico wheat is grown upon the ground which produces this shrub ; which, if true, relieves the soil from thd character of sterility imputed to it. Be this as it may, there isno dispute about the grass, which is almost universal on the hills and moun- tains, and always nutritious, even in its drj stote. We passed on the way masses of granite on the slope of a spur, which was very much weathered and abraded. This is a white feldspathic granite, with small scales of black mica ; smoky quartz and garnets appear to constitute ihis portion ol the mountain. The read at noon reached a broken ridge, on which were scaUered many boulders or blocks of granite ; and, passing very small streams, wnere, with a litile more than the usual timber, was sometimes gathered a littlt wilder- ness of plants, we encamped on a small stream, after a march of 22 miles, in company with a few Indians. Temperature at sunset 51° ; and the night was partially clear, with a few stars visible through drilling white clouds, The Indians made an unsuccessful attempt to steal a few horses from us— a thing of course with them, and to prevent which the traveller is on per- petual watch. October 7. — The day was bright, clear, and pleasant, with a temperature of 45°; and we breakrasted at sunrise, the birds singing in the trees as rneirily as if we were in the midst of summer. On the upper edge of the hills on the opposite side of the creek, the black volcanic rock reappears; and ascending these, the road passed through a basin, around which the hills SWfept in such a manner as to give it the appearance of an old crater. Here were strata and broken beds of black scoriated rock, and hills com- posed of the same, on the summit of one of which there was an opening re- sembling a rent. We travelled to-day through a country resembling that of yesterday, where, although the surface was hilly, the road was good, be- ing firm, and entirely free from rocks and artf misia. To oiir lett, below, was the great sage plain ; and on the right weic the near mountains, which presented a smoothly broken character, or rather a surface waved into numberless hills. The road was occasionally enlivenerd by meeting In- dians, and the day was extremely beautiful and pleasant ; and we were pleased to be free from the sage, even for a day. When we had trav- elled about 8 miles, we were nearly opposite to the highest portion of the mountains on the left side of the Smoke river valley ; and, continuing on a few miles beyond, we came suddenly in sight of the broad green line ol the valley of the RivUre Boisfe^ (wooded river,) black near the gorge where it debouches into the plains, with high precipices of basalt, between walls of which it passes, on emerging from the mountains. Following with the eye its upward course, it appears to be shut in among lofty moun- tains, confining its valley in a very rugged country. Descending the hills, after travelling a few miles along the high plain, the road brought us down upon the bottoms of the river, which is a beau- tiful rapid stream, ^'ith clear mountain water, and, as th« name indicates. Well wooded with so..ie varieties of timber — among which are handsome cot- tonwoods. Such a stream had become quite a novelty in this country, and X73 C.n4] we were delighted this afternoon to make a pleasant camp under fine old trees again. There were several Indian encampments scattered alon^g the river; and a number of their inhabitants, in the course of the Evening, came to the camp on horseback with dried and fresh fish to trade. The evening was clear, and the temperature at sunset 57°. At (he time of the first occupation of this region by parlies engaged in the lur trade, a small party of men under the command of Reid, constituting all the garrison of a little f on this river, were surprised and massacred by the Indians; and to this ^vent the stream owes its occasional name of Reid^s river. On the 8th we travelled about 26 miles, the ridge on the right having scattered pines on the upper parts ; and, continuing'the next day our road along the river bottom, after a day's travel "of 24 miles we encamped in the evening on the right bank of the river, a mile above the mouth, and early the next morning arrived at Fort Boise. This ie a simple dwelling-' house on the right bank of Snake river, about a mi'e below the mouth of Riviere Boissee ; and on our arrival we were received with an agreeable hospitality by Mr. Payette, an officer of the Hudson Bay Company, in charge of the fort; all of whose garrison consisted in a Canadian engage. Here the road recrosses the river, which is broad and deep; but, with our good boat, aided by two canoes, which were found at the place, the camp was very soon tiansferred to the left bank. Here we found ourselves again surrounded by the sage ; artemisia tridentata,and the different shrubs wiiich during our voyage had always made their appearance abundantly on saline soils, being here the prevailing and almost the only plants. Among them the surface was covered with the usual saline efflorescences, which here consist ahnost entirely of carbonate of soda, with a small por- tion of chloride of sodium. Mr. Payette had made but slight attempts at cultivation, his efforts being limited to raising a few vegetables, in which he succeeded tolerably well ; the post being principally supported by sal- mon. He was very hospitable and kind to us, and we made a sensible im- pression upon all his comestibles; but our principal inroad was into the dairy, which was abundantly supplied, stock appearing to thrive extremely well; and we had an unusual luxury in a present of fresh butter, which was, however, by no means equal to that of Fort Hall — probably from some accidental cause. During the day we remained here, there were considerable numbers of miserable half naked Indians around the fort, who had arrived from the neighboring mountains. During the summer, the only subsistence of these people is derived from the salmon, of which they are not provident enough to lay up a suflicient store for the winter, during which many of them die from absolute starvation. Many little accounts and scattered histories, together with an acquaint- ance which I gradually acquired of their modes of life, had left the abori- ginal inhabitants of this vast region pictured in my mind as a race of peo- ple whose great and constant occupation was the means of procuring a sub- sistence ; and though want of space, and other reasons, will prevent me horn detailing the many incidents which made these things familiar to me, this' great feature among the characteristics of the country will gradually be foiced upon your mind. Pointing to a group of Indians who had just arrived from the mountains on the kit side of the valley, and who were regarding our usual appliances of civilization with an air of bewildered curiosity, Mr. Payette informed me ^ !? l! ;;' 1 ft. -wi^ "iJpi II I' n C IM] 174 that, every year since his arrival at this post, he had unsuccessfully en- deavored to induce these people to lay up a store of salmon for their winter provision. While the summer weather and the salmon lasted, they lived contentedly and happily, scattered along the different streams where the fish were to be found ; and as soon as the winter snows began to fall, little smokes would be seen rising among the mountains, where they would be found in miserable groups, starving out the winter ; and sometimes, accord- ing to the general belief, reduced to the horror of cannibalism — the strong, of course, preying on the weak. Certain it is, they are driven to any ex- tremity for food, and eat every insect, and every creeping thing, however loathsome and repulsive. Snails, lizards, ants — all are devoured with the readiness and greediness of mere animals. In common with all the other Indians we had encountered siprer of sharp ascents over an undulating surface. Crossing here a dividing ridge, it became an excellent road of gradual descent down a very marked hollow ; in which, after 10 miles, willows began to appear in the dry bed of a head of the Riviere aux Bovleaux^ ( Birch river;) and descending 7 miles, we found, at its junction with another branch, a little water, not very good or abundant, but sufficient in case of necessity for a camp. Crossing ^tircb river, we continued for about 4 miles across a point of hill ; the country on the left being entirely mountainous, with no level spot to be seen; whence we descended to Snake river — here a fine-looking stream, with a large body of water and a smooth current; although we hear the roar, and see below us the commencement of rapids where it enters among the hills. It forms here a deep bay, with a low sand island in the midst ; and its course among the mountains is agreeably exchanged for the black volcanic rock. The weather during the day had been'very bright and extremely hot ; but, as usual, so soon as the sun went down, it was necessary to put on overcoats. I obtained this evening an observation of an emersion of the first satel- lite, and our observations of the evening place this encampment in latitude 44° 17' 36 ', and longitude 116° 56' 45 ', which is the mean of the results from the satellite and chronometer. The elevation above the sea 1,880 feet. At this encampment, the grass is scanty and poor. October 13. — The morning was brig,ht,,with the temperature at sunset 28°. The horses had strayed otf during the night, probably in search of grass; and, after a considerable delay, we had succeeded in finding all but two, when, about 9 o'clock, we heard the sound of an Indian song and drum approaching; and shortly after, three Cay use Indians appeared in sight, bringing with them the two animals. They belon>ied to a party which had been on a buffalo hunt in the nei^hboihood of the Rocky moun- tains, and wer^ hurrying home in advance. We presented them with some tobacco, and other things, with which they appeared well satisfied, and, moderating their pace, travelled in company with us. We were now about to leave the valley of the great southern branch of the Columbia river, to which the absence of timber, and the scarcity of water, give the appearance of a desei t, to enter a mountainous region where the soil is good, and in which the face of the country is covered with nutri- tious grasses and dense forest — land embracing mariy varieties of trees pe- culiar to the country, and on which the timber exhibits a luxuriance of growth unknown to the eastern part of the continent and to Europe. This mountainc'is region connects itself in the southward and westward with the elevated country belonging to the Cascade or California range ; and, as will be rema.ked in the course of the narrative, forms the eastern limit of ihe fertile and timbered lands along the desert and mnuniiinous region in- cluded within the Great Basin — a term which I apply to the inierinediate region between the Rocky mountains and the next langr , containing many lakes, with their own system of rivers and creeks, (oC \^hi(•h the Great Salt IS the principal,) and which have no connexion with the ocean, or the great fivers which flow into it. This Great B;isin is yet to be adequately explored. And here, on (juitting the banks of a bterile liver, to enter on aiablenioun- tains, the remark may be made, that, on this western slope of our continent, -1 \\ f! >\ M 1, C i74 ] 176 the usual order or distribution of good and bad soil is often reversed - the rJLVer and oreek bottoms being often steriU, and dnikened with the gloomr and barren artejxiisia ; while the mountain is often fertile, and covered with. rich grass, pleasant to the eye, and good for flocks and herds. Leaving entirely the Snake river, which is said henceforth to pursue itj course through canons, amidst rocky and impracticable mountains, where there is no possibility of travelling with animals, we ascended a long and somewhat steep hill ; and crossing the dividing ridge, came down into the valley of Bwnt river, which here looks like x hole among the hills. The average l^eadth of the stream here is 30 feet ; it is well fringed with the usual small timber; and the soil in the bottoms is good, with better grass than we had lately been accustomed to see. We now travelled through a very mountainous country ; the stream run- ning rather in a ravine than a valley, and the road is decidedly bad and dangerous for single wagons, frequently crossing the stream 'vhere the water is sometimes deep; and all the day the animals were fatigued in climbing up and descending a succession of steep ascents, to avoid the pre- cipitous hill sides; and the common trail, which leads along the mouniaia side at places where the river strikes the base, is sometimes bad even for a horseman. The mountains along this day's journey were composed, near the river, of a slaty calcareous rock in a metamorphic condition. It ap- pears originally to have been a slaty sedimentary limestone, but its pres- ent condition indicates that it has been altered, and has become partially crystalline — probably from the proximity of volcanic rocks. But though travelling was slow and fatiguing to the animals, we were delighted with the appearance of the country, which was green and refreshing after out] tedious journey down the parched valley of Snake river. The mountainj were covered with good b'unch grass, (jfestuca;) the water of the streams was cold and pur6 ; their bottoms were handsomely wooded with various! kinds of trees ; and huge and lofty and picturesque precipices were dis- played where the river cut through the mountains. We found in the evening some good grass and rushes ; and encamped among large timber, principally birch, which had been recently burnt and blackened, and almost destroyed by fire. The night was calm and tolera- bly clear, with the thermometer at sunset at 59°. Our journey to-day was about 20 miles. October 14. — The day was clear and calm, with a temperature at sunrise of 46°. After travelling about three miles up the valley, we found the | river shut up by precipices in a kind of canon, and the road makes a cir- cuit over the mountains. In the afternoon we reached the river again, bj another little ravine ; and, after travelling along it for a few miles, left it j enclosed among rude mountains; and, ascending a smaller branch, en- camped on it about 6 o'clock, very much elevated above the valley. The! view was every where limited by mountains, on which were no lonj^er seen the black and barren rocks, but a fertile soil, with excellent grass, and partly well covered with pine. I have never seen a wagon road equally 1 bad in the same space, as this of. yesterday and to-day. I noticed where one wagon had been oveiturned twice, in a very short distance; and it wqs surprising to me that those wagons which were in the tear, and could! not have had much assistance, got throagh at all. Still, there is no mud; and the road has one advantage, in being perlectly firm. The day had | been warm and very pleasant, and the night was perfectly clear. i rise ; the weath 177 C 174] October 15. — The thermometer at daylight was 42°, and at sunrise 40°; clouds, which were scatterred over ail the sky, disappeared with the rising sun. The trail did not much improve until we had crossed the dividing grounds between the Brul& (Burnt) and Powder rivers. The rock dis- played on the mountains, as we approached the summit, was a compact trap, decomposing on the exposed surfaces, and apparently an altered ar- gillaceous sandstone, containing small crystalline nodules of anolcime, ap- parently filling cavities originally existing. From the summit here, the whole horizon shows high mountains ; no high plain or level is to be seen; and on the left, from south around by the west to north, the mountains are black with pines; while, through the remaining space to the eastward, they are bald with the exception of some scattered pines. You will re- mark that we arc now entering a region where all the elevated parts are covered with dense and heavy forests. From the dividing grounds we descended by a mountain road to Powder river, on an old bed of which we encamped. Descending from the summit, we enjoyed a picturesque view of high rocky mountains on the right, illuminated by the setting sun. From the heights we had looked in vain for a well-known landmark on Powder river, which had been described to me by Mr. Payette as I'arhre seul, (the lone tree ;) and, on arriving at the river, we found a fine tall pine stretched on the ground, which had been felled by some inconsiderate emigrant axe. It had been a beacon on the road for many years past. Our Cayuses had become impatient to reach their homes, and travelled on ahead to-day ; and this afternoon we were visited by several Indians, who belonged to the tribes on the Columbia. They were on horseback, and were out on a hunting excursion, but had obtained no better game than a large gray hare, of which each had some six or seven hanging to his sad- dle. We were also visited by an Indian who had his lodge and family in the mountain to the left. He was in want of ammunition, and brought with him a beaver skin to exchange, and which he valued at six charges of powder and ball. I learned from him that there are very few of these animals remaining in this part of the country. The temperature at sunset was 61°, and the evening clear. I obtained, with other observations, an immersion and emersion of the third satellite. Elevation 3,100 feet. October 16. — For several weeks the weather in the daytime has been ; very beautiful, clear, and warm; but the nights, in comparison, are very icold. During the night there was ice a quarter of an inch thick in the lodge; and at daylight the thermometer was at 16°, and the same at sun- I rise; the weather being calm and clear. The amiual vegetation now is nearly gone, almost all the plants being out of bloom. Last night two of our horses had run off again, which delayed us until I noon ; and we made to day but a short journey of 1 3 miles, the road being [ very good, and encamped in a fine bottom of Powder river. The thermometer at sunset was at 61°, with an easterly wind, and par- [tially clear sky ; and the day has been quite pleasant and warm, though more cloudy than yesterday ; and the sun was frequently faint, but it grew [finer and clearer towards evening. October 17. — Thermometer at sunrise 25°. The weather at daylight Iwas fine, and the sky without a cloud ; but these came up, or were formed jwith the sun, and at 7 were thick over all the sky. Just now, this appears to be the regular course— clear and brilliant during the night, and cloudy 18 i'W [ 174] 178 during the day. There is snow yet visible in the neighboring mountains wiiich yesterday extended along our route to the left, in a lolly and dark- blue range, having much the appearance of the Wind river mountains. It is probable that they have received their name of the Blue mountains from the dark-blue appearance given to them by the pines. We travelled this morning across the affluents to Powder river, the road being good, firm and level ; and the country became constantly more pleasant and interest- ing. The soil appeared to be very deep, and is black and extremely good as well among the hollows of the hills on the elevated plats, as on the river bottoms ; the vegetation being such as is usually found in good ground. The following analytical result shows the precise qualities of this soil, and will justify to science the character of fertility which the eye attributes to it : ^inalysis of Powder river soil. Silica Alumina - Carbonate of lime Carbonate of magnesia Oxide of iron Organic matter Water and loss 100,00 1i From the waters of this stream, the road ascended by a good and moderate ascent to a dividing ridge, but immediately entered upon ground covered with fragments of an altered siliceous slate, which are in many places large, and render the road racking to a carriage. In this rock the planes of deposition are distinctly preserved, andt he metamorphism is evidently due to the proximity of volcanic rocks. On either side, the mountains here are densely covered with tall and handsome trees ; and, mingled with the green of a variety of pines, is the yellow of the European larch {pi?uts larix.) which loses its leaves in the fall. From its present color, we were enabled to see that it forms a large proportion of the forests on the mountains, and is here a magnificent tree, attaining sometimes the height of 200 feet, which I believe is elsewhere unknown. About two in the afternoon we reached a high point of the dividing ridge, from which we obtained a good view of the Grand Rond — a beautiful level basin, or mountain valley, covered with good grass, on a rich soil, abundantly watered, and surrounded by high and well-timbered mountains; and its name descriptive of its form— the great circle. It is a place — one of the few we have seen in our journey so far — where a farmer would delight to establish himself, if he were content to live in the seclusi i which it imposes. It is about 20 miles in diameter; and may, in time, form a superb county. Probably with the view of avoid- ing a circuit, the wagons had directly descended into the Rond by the face of a hill so very rocky and continuously steep as to be apparently imprac- ticable ; and, following down on their trail, we encamped on one of the branches of the Grand Rond river, immediately at the foot of the hill. I had remarked, in descending, some very white spots glistening on the plain, and; going out in that direction after we had encamped^ I found them to be 179 [ 174 ] he bed of a dry salt lake, or marsh, very firm and bare, which was covered illicitly with a fine white powder, containing a large quantity of carbonate of soda, (thirty-three in one hundred parts.) The old grass had been lately burnt off from the surrounding hills, and, wherever the fire had passed, there was a recent growth of strong, green, and vigorous grass ; and the soil of the level prairie, which sweeps directly up to the foot of the surrounding mountains, r ppoars to be very rich, pro- Iducing flax spontaneously and luxuriantly in various places. A^nalysis of the Grand Bond soil. ISiiica , . - - Alumina - - - - I Lime and magnesia Oxide of iron Vegetable matter, partly decomposed Water and loss ... Iphosphate of lime 70.81 10.97 1.38 2.21 8.16 5.46 1.01 100.00 ! \\ The elevation of this encampment is 2,940 feet above the sea. October IS. — It began to rain an hour before sunrise, and continued until llO o'clock ; the sky entirely overcast, and the temperature at sunrise 48°. We resumed our journey somewhat later than usual, travelling in a nearly north direction across this beautiful valley ; and about noon reached la place on one of the principal streams, where I had determined to li^ave ttlie emigrant trail, in the expectation of finding a more direct and better Iroad across the Blue mountains. At this place the emigrants appeared to have held some consultation as to their fuither route, and finally turned ilirectlv off to the left reaching the foot of the mountain in about three Diiles, which they ascended by a hill as steep and difficult as that by which ^ve had yesterday descended to the Rond. Quitting, therefore, this road, fhich, after a very rough crossing, issues from the mountains by the heads kf the Uinatilah river, we continued our northern course across the valley, lollowing an Indian trail which had been indicated to me by Mr. Payette, \nd encamped at the northern extremity of the Grand Rond, on a slough- jike stream of very deep water, without any apparent current. There are ome pines here on the low hills at the creek ; and in the northwest corner the Rond is a very heavy body of timber, which descends into the plain. The clouds, which had rested very low along the mountain sides during lie day, rose gradually up in the afternoon ; and in the evening the sky ►as almost entirely clear, with a temperature at sunset of 47°- Some in- lifferent observations placed the camp in longitude 117° ?8' 26", latitude |5° 26' 47" ; and the elevation was 2,600 feet abovs the sea. October 19. — This morning the mountains were hidden by fog; there ras a heavy dew during the night, in which the exposed thermometer at aylight stood at 32°, and at sunrise the temperature was 35°. We passed out of the Grand Rond by a fine road along the creek, which, Pr a short distance, runs in a kind of rocky chasm. Crossing a low point, [liich was a little rocky, the trail conducted into the open valley of the Wm— a handsome place for farms ; the soil, even of the hills, being rich 'M [ 174] 180 ■ W and black. Passing through a point of pines, which bore evidences of being much frequented by the Indians, and in which the trees were some- times apparently 200 feet high and 3 to 7 feet in diameter, we halted for a few minutes in the afternoon at the foot of the Blue mountains, on a branch of the Grand Rond river, at an elevation of 2,700 feet. Resuming our journey, we commenced the ascent of the mountain through an open pine forest of large and stately trots, among which the balsam pine made its appearance ; the road being good, with the exception of one steep ascent. with a corresponding descent, which might both have been easily avoided by opening a way for a short distance through the timber. It would have been well had we encamped on the stream where we had halted below, as the night overtook us on the mountain, and we were obliged to encamp without water, and tie up the animals to the trees for the night. We had halted on a smooth open place of a narrow ridge, which descended verv rapidly to a ravine or piiiey hollow, at a considerable distance below; and it was quite a pretty spot, had there been water near. But tlie fires at night look very ciieerless after a day's march, when there is no preparation for supper going on ; and, after sitting some time around the blazing logs, Mr. Preuss and Carson, with several others, vokniteered to take the India rubber buckets and go down into the ravine in search of water. It was a very difficult way in the darkness down the slippery side of the steep moun- tain, and harder still to climb about half a mile up again ; but they found the water, and the cup of coffee (which it enabled us to make) and bread were only enjoyed with greater pleasure. At sunset the temperature was 4G° ; the evening remarkably clear; atid I obtained an emersion of the first satellite, which does not give a good re- sult, although the observation was a very good one. The chronometric longitude was 117° 28' 34", latitude 45° 38' 07", and we had ascended to an elevation of 3,830 feel. It appeared to have snowed yesterday on the mountains, their summits showing very white to-day. October 20. — There was a heavy white frost during the night, and at sunrise the temperature was 37°. The animals had eaten nothing during the night ; and we made an early start, continuing our route among the pines, which were more dense than yesterday, and still retained their magnificent size. The larches cluster together in masses on the sides of the mountains, and their yellow foliage contrasts handsomely with the green of the balsam and other pines. After a few miles we ceased to see any pines, and the timber consisted of several varieties of spruce, larch, and balsaM pine, which have a regularly conical figure. These trees appeared from 60 to nearly 200 feet in height ; the usual circumference being 10 to 12 feet, and in the pines sometimes 21 feet, In open places near the summit, these trees became less high and more branching, the conical form having a greater base. The instrument car- riage occasioned much delay, it being frequently necessary to fell trees and remove the fallen timber. 'The trail we were follow^ing led up a long spur. with a very gradual and gentle rise. At the end of three miles, we halted at an open place near the summit, from which we enjoyed a fine view over the mountainous country where we had lately travelled, to take a barometrical observation at the height of 4^760 feet. After travelling occasionally through open places in the forest, we were obliged to cut a way through a dense body of timber, from which w< 181 [ 174] emerged on an open mountain side, where we fonnd a number of small springs, and encamped afier a day's journey of 10 miles. Our elevation here was 5,000 feet. October 21.— There was a very heavy white frost during the night, and the thermometer at sunrise was 30°. We continued to travel through the forest, in which the road was ren- dered difficult by fallen trunks, and obstructed by many small trees, which it was necessary to cut down. But these are only accidental difficulties, which could easily be removed, and a very excellent road may be had through this pass, with no other than very moderate ascents or declivities. A laborious day, which had advanced us only six miles on our road, brought us in the afternoon to an opening in the forest, in which there was a fine mountain meadow, with good grass, and a large clear-water stream — one of the head branches of the Umalilah river. During this day's ourney, the barometer was broken ; and the elevations above the sea, hereafter given, depend upon the temperature of boiling water. Some of the white sprucea which I measured to-day were twelve feet in circumference, and one of the larches ten ; but eight feet was i^^ average circumference of those measured along the road. I held in my hand a tape line as I walked along, in order to form some correct idea of the size of the timber. Their height appeared to be from 100 to 180, and perhaps 200 feet, and the trunks of the larches were sometimes 100 feet without a limb; but the white spruces were gen- erally covered with branches nearly to the root. All these trees have their braHches, particularly the lower ones, declining. October 22. — The white frost this morning was like snow on the ground ; the ice was a quarter of an inch thick on the creek, and the thermometer at sunrise was at 20°. But, in a few hours, the day became warm and pleas- ant, and our road over the mountains was delightful and full of enjoyment. The trail passed sometimes through very thick young timber, in which there was much cutting to be done ; but, after travelling a few miles, the mountains became more bald, and we reached a point from which there was a very extensive view in the northwest. We were here on the western verge of the Blue mountains, long spurs of which, very precipitous on either side, extended down into the valley, the waters of the mountain roaring be- tween them. On our right was a mountain plateau, covered with a dense forest; and to the westward, immediately below us, was the great Nez Perce (pierced nose) prairie, in which d irk lines of timber indicated the course of many affluents to a considerable stream that was seen pursuing its way across the plain towards what appeared to be the Columbia river. This I knew to be the Walahwal.ih river, and occasional spots along its banks, which resembled clearings, were supposed to be the mission or In- dian settlements ; but the weather was smoky and unfavorable to far views with the glass. The rock displayed here in the escarpments is a compac^ amorphous trap, which appears to constitute the mass of the Blue moii tains in this latitude ; and all the region of country through whicli wehavc- travelled since leaving the Snake river has been the seat cf >dolent and extensive igneous action. Along the Burnt river valley, the strata are evi- dently sedimentary rocks, altered by the intrusion of volcanic products, which in some instances have penetrated and essentially changed their original condition. Along our line of route from this point to the Califor- nia mountains, there seems but little essenrini chango. All our specimens of sedimentary rocl.3 show them to be much altered, and volcanic produc- tions appear to prevail throughout the whole intervening distance. ( r Vf! .//I 4 'S [ nl ] 182 n: l*:i : ,i The road now led along tlio mountain side, around heads of the precip,. tous ravines ; and, keopir)g men ahead to clear a road, wo passed alteriiattlv throng)) bodies of limber and small open prairies, and encamped in a larBe meadow, in view of the great prairie below. At sunset the thermometer was at 40°, and the night was very clear and bright. Water was only to be had liere by descending a bad ravine, int,, which we drove our aii'^ials, and had much trouble with them, in a vcrv close growth of small p. Mr. Preuss had walked ahead, and did not get into camp this evening. rees here maintained their size, and one of th,; black spruces measured 15 I'eet in circumference. In the neighborhood o- the camp, pines have reappeared here among the timber. October 23. — The morning was very clear; there had been a heaw white frost during the night, and at sunrise the thermometer was at 31". After cutting through two thick bodies of timber, in which I noticed some small trees o{ hemlock spruce, {perusse,) the forest became more open, and we had no longer any trouble to clear a way. The pines here were 1 1 or h feet in circumference, andabout 1 10 feet high, and appeared to love the open grounds. The trail now led along one of the long spurs of the mountain, descending gradually towards the j)lain; and after a few miles travelling, wc emerged finally from the forest, in full view of the plain below, and saw the snowy mass of Mount Hood, standing liigh out above the surrounding country, at the distance of 180 miles. The road along the ridge wase.x- cellent, and the grass very green and good; the old grass having been burnt off early in the autumn. About 4 o'clock in the afternoon we reached a little bottom on the Walahwalah river, where we found Mr. Preuss, who yesterday had reached this place, and found himself too far in advance oi the camp to return. The stream here has just issued from the narrow ra- vines, which are walled with precipices, in which the rock has a browii and more burnt appearance than above. At sunset the thermometer was at 48°; and our position was in longitude 118° 00' 39', and in latitude 45° 53' 35". The morning was clear, with a temperature at sunrise of 24°. Crossing the river, we travelled over a hilly country with good bunch grass ; the river bottom, winch generally contains the best soil in other countries, being here a sterile level of rock and pebbles. We had found the soil in the Blue mountains to be of e ccellent quality, and it appeared also to be good here among the lower h lis. Reaching a little eminence, over which the trail passed, we had an extensive view along the course of the river, which was divided and spread over its bottom in a net work of water, receiving several other tributaries from the mountains. There was a band of several hundred horses grazing on the hills about two miles ahead ; and as we advanced on the road we met other bands, which Indians were driving out to pasture also on the hills. True to its general character, the reverse of other countries, the hills and mountains here were rich in grass, the bottoms barren and sterile. In six miles we crossed a principal fork, below which the scattered water of the river was gathered into one channel ; and, passing on the way sev- eral unfinished houses, and some cleared patches, where corn and potatoes were cultivated, we reached, in about eight miles farther, the missionary establishment of Dr. Whitman, which consisted, at this time, of one adoht house — i. e. built of unbunit bricks, as in Mexico. I found Dr. Whitman absent on a visit to the Dalles of the Columbia; but had the pleasure to see a fine-looking large family of emigrants, men, 183 C 174] women, and children, in robust health, all indemnifying themselves for previous scanty fare, in a hearty consumption ot potatoes, which are pro- duced here of a remarkably good quality. VVc wore disappointed in our expectation of obtaining corn meal or flour at this station, the mill belong- ing to the mission having beeri lately burnt down ; but an abundant supply of excellent potatoes banished regrets, and furnished a grateful substitute for bread. A small town of Nez Peivi- Indians gave an inhabited and even a populous appearance to the station ; and, after remaining about an hour, we continued our route, and encamped on the river about four miles below, passing on the way an emigrant encampment. Temperature at sunset, 49°. October 25. — The weather was pleasant, with a sunrise temperature of 3f)^ Our road to-day had in it nothing of interest; and the country of- fered to the eye only a sandy, undulating plain, through which a scantily timbered river takes its course. We halted about three miles above the mouth, on account of grass ; and the next morning arrived at the Nez Perce fort, one of the trading establishments of the Hudson Bay Company, a few hundred yards above the junction of the Walahwalah with the Colum- bia river. Here we had the first view of this river, and found it about 1,200 yards wide, and presenting the appearance of a fine navigable stream. We made our camp in a little grove of willows on the Walahwalah, which are the only trees to be seen in the neighborhood; but were obliged to send the animals back to the encampment we had left, as there was scarcely a blade of grass to be found. The post is on the bank of the Columbia, on a plain of bare sands, from which the air was literally filled with clouds of dust and sand, during one of the few days we remained here ; this place being one of the several points on the river which are distinguished for pre- vailing high winds, which come from the sea. The appearance of the post and country was without interest, except that we here saw, for the first time, the great river on which the course of events for the last half century has been directing attention and conferring historical fame. The river is, in- deed, a noble object, and has here attained its full magnitude. About nine miles above, and in sight from the heights about the post, is the junction of the two great forks which constitute the main stream — that on which we had been travelling from Fort Hall, and known by the names of Lewis's fork, Shoshonee, and Snake river; and the North fork, which has retained the name of Columbia, as being the main stream. We did not go up to the junction, being pressed for time ; but the union of two large streams, coming one from the southeast, and the other from the northeast, and meeting in what may be treated as the geographical centre of the Oregon valley, thence doubling the volume of water to the ocean, while opening two great lines of communication with the interior continent, con- stitutes a feature in the map of the country which cannot be overlooked ; and it was probably in reference to this junction of waters, and these lines of communication, that this post was established. They are important lines, and, from the structure of the country, must forever remain so — one of them leading to the South Pass, and to the valley of the Mississippi; the other to the pass at the head of the Athabasca river, and to the countries drained by the waters of the Hudson Bay. The British fur companies now use both lines ; the Americans, in their emigration to Oregon, have begun to follow the one which leads towards the United States. Batteaus from tide water ascend to the junction, and thence high up the North fork, or Co- lumbia. Land conveyance only is used upon the line of Lewis's fork. IwA '/ [ n4 ] 184 I li ; M To the emigrants to Oregon, the Nez VorcO. is a point of interest, as being, 10 those who choose it, the termination ol their overland journey. The broad expanse of the river here invites thoni to onihark on its bosoni; am] the lofty trees of the forest fvirnish the moans of doing so. From the Sonth Pass to this place is about 1,000 miles ; and as it is about the same distance from that pass fo the Missouri river af the mouth of the Kansas, it may be assumed that 2,000 miles is the tucessarj^ land travel in crossing from the United States to the Pacific ocean on this line. From the mouth of the (Ireat Platte it would be about 100 miles less. Mr. McKinlLiV, the commander of the post, received us with great civili- ty ; and both to myself, and the heads of the emigrants who were there at the time, extended the rites of hos))italily in a comfortable dinner to which he invited us. By a meridional altitude of the sun, the only observation that the weather permitted us to obtain, the mouth of the W;dahwalah river is in latitude 46° 03' 46"; and, by the road we had travelled, 612 miles from Fort Hall. At the time of our arrival, a considerable body of the emigrants under the direction of Mr . Applegate, a man of considerable resolution and energy, had nearly completed the building of a number of Mackinaw boats, in which they proposed to continue their further voyage down the Columbia. I had seen, in descending the Walahwalah river, a fine drove of several huiidrrid cattle, which they iiad exchanged for Californian cattle, to be received at Vancouver, and which are considered a very inferior breed. The other portion of the emigration had preferred to complete their journey by land along the banks of the Columbia, takin.' their stock and wagons with them. Having reinforced our animals wiin eight fresh horses, hired from the post, and increased our stock of provisions with dried salmon, potatoes, and a little beef, we resumed our journey down the left bank of the Columbia, being guided on our road by an intelligent Indian boy, whom I had en- gaged to accompany us as far as the Dalles. The sketch of a rock which we passed in the course of the morning is annexed, to show the manner in which the basaltic rock, which constitutes the geological formation of the Columbia valley, now presents itself. From an elevated point over which the road led, we obtained another far view oi Mount Hood, 150 miles distant. We obtained on the river bank an obser- vation of the sun at noon, which gave for the latitude 45° 5S' OS". The country to-day was very unprepo.ssessing, and our road bad ; and as we toiled slowly along through deep loose sands, and over fragments of black volcanic rock, our laborious travelling was strongly contrasted wiili the rapid progress of Mr. Applegate 's fleet of boats, which suddenly came glid- ing swiftly down the broad river, which here chanced to be tranquil and smooth. At evening we encamped on the river bank, where there was very little grass, and less timber. We frequently met Indians oti the road, and they were collected at every favorable spot along the river. October 29. — The road contmued along the river, and in the course Oi' the day Mount St. Helens, anotlier snowy peak of the Cascade range, wa? visible. We crossed the UniiUilah river at a fall near its mouth. This stream is of the same class as the Walahwalah river, with a bed of volcanic rock, in phices split into fissures. Our encampment was similar to that of yesterday; there was very little grass, and no wood. The Indians brought us some pieces for sale, which were purchased to make our fires. October 31. — By observation, our camp is in latitude 45*^ 50' 05", and rest, as lioing, )uniey. The > bosom ; and as it is about mouth of the laud travel in e. From the h great civih- vere there at luer to which t the weather is iu latitude oni Fort Hall. Its uuder the d energy, had ats, iu which irnbia. I had eral hundred e received at . The other irney by land ns with them, ired from the potatoes, and lie Cohimbia, om I had en- e morning is ch constitutes 5 itself. From er far view 01 ank an obser- S' OS". The ; and as we lents of black ited with the ily cameglid- tranquil and re there was 1 on tlie road, jr. the course of le ranse, wa? 0^5 nouth. Tills id of volcanic lar to that of lians brouglit res. 50' 05", and ' . 2 - > -I i>A H i, ,, I t i }'i If M i: longitude 119° frost this morni ja" The earl usual since we rising sr.n. TV clouds, but the peaic of Mount I all day in the s Our road was a party of Indiani and form. Th( i pressed me wit languages. We continue with many san islands, and an wood ; rock aiK section is a verj \ the appearance lumnar hills, an ments st-cv.'od i We made a li tridentata for 1 very good greei November 1 .- the air is pleass river, and, passi tons rocks, encs On the right I the river is 1,6! i appearance. November 2.- \ room for a roac among the rive: I a great improvf I soil was good, j broken into higl John Day's rive I bed of rolled stc of all the strean I deserves the na Ion the river, am I which had prol [halted for the r water. We dls I had been forew I been watered al [for the night. November 3- jcovered as all t\ jscended again ii jfoad, and in ab( 185 [ 174] longitude 119° 22' 18". The night has been cold, and we have white frost this morning, with a temperature at daylight of 25°, and at sunrise of 240. The early morning was very clear, and the stars bright ; but, as usual since we are on the Columbia, clouds formed immediately with the rising sun. The day continued fine, the east being covered with scattered clouds, but the west remaining clear ; showing the remarkable cone-like peak of Mount Hood brightly drawn against the sky. This was in view all day in the southwest, but no other peaks of the range were visible. Our road was a bad one, of very loose deep sand. We met on the way a party of Indians unusually well dressed, wearing clothes of civilized texture and forna. They appeared intelligent, and, in our slight intercourse, im- pressed me with the belief that they possessed some aptitude for acquiring languages. We continued to travel along the river, the stream being interspersed with many sand bars (it being the season of low water) and with many islands, and an apparently good navigation. Small willows were the only wood ; rock and sand the prominent geological feature. The rock of this section is a very compact and tough basalt, occurring in strata which have the appearance of being broken into fragments, assuming the form of co- lumnar hills, and appearing always in escarpments, with the broken frag- ments st"C'."od at the base and over the adjoining country. We made a late encannpment on the river, and used to-night purshia tridentata for fire wood. Among the rocks which formed the bank, was very good green grass. Latitude 45° 44' 23", longitude 119° 45* 09". November 1. — Mount Hood is glowing in the sunlight this morning, and the air is pleasant, with a temperature of 38°. We continued down the river, and, passing through a pretty green valley, bounded by high precipi- tous rocks, encamped at the lower end. On the right shore, the banks of the Columbia are very high and steep j the river is 1,690 feet broad, and dark bluffs of rock give it a picturesque appearance. November 2. — The river here entered among bluffs, leaving no longer room for a road ; and we accordingly left it, and took a more inland way among the river hills ; or\ which we had no sooner entered, than we found a great improvement in the country. The sand had disappeared, and the soil was good, and covered with excellent grass, although the surface was broken into high hills, with uncommonly deep valleys. At noon we crossed John Day's river, a clear and beautiful stream, with a swift current and a bed of rolled stones. It is sunk in a deep valley, which is characteristic of all the streams in this region ; and the hill we descended to reach it well deserves the name of mountain. Some of the emigrants had encamped on the river, and others at the summit of the farther hill, the ascent of which had probably cost their wagons a day's labor ; and others again had halted for the night a few miles beyond, where they had slept without water. We olso encamped in a grassy hollow without water ; but as we bad been forewarned of this privation by the guide, the animals had all been watered at the river, and we had brought with us a sufficient quantity for the night. November 3. — After two liouis' ride through a fertile, hilly country* covered as all the upland here appears to be with good green grass, we de- scended again into the river bottom, along which we resumed our sterile foad, and in about four miles reached the ford of the Fall river, {Rivilre- " r! 1 w 'Jix ' ^. :i I- H] :!ri i ^ II II :i 01. the [ 174 ] 186 aux Chutef},) a considerable tributary to the Columbia, We had heard reaching the Nez Perce fort, a repetition of the account in regard lo i unsettled character of the Columbia Indians at the present time ; and to our Ultle party they had at various points manifested a not very frieiidlv disposition, in several attempts to steal our horses. At this place I expected to find a badly disposed band, who had plundered a party of 14 emigrant men a few days before, and taken away their horses ; and accordingly we made the necessary preparations for our security, but happily met with no difficulty. The river was high, divided into several arms, with a rocky island at its outlet into the Columbia, which at this place it rivalled in size, and ap- parently deserved its highly characteristic name, which is received from one of its many falls some forty miles up the river. It entered the Coluni bia with a roar of falls and rapids, and is probably a favorite fishing station among the Indians, with whom both banks of the river were populous; but they scarcely paid any attention to us. The ford was very difficult ai this time, and, had they entertained any bad intentions, they were offered a good opportunity to carry them out, as I drove directly into the river, and during the crossing the howitzer was occasionally several feet underwater, and a number of the men appeared to be more often below than above Our guide was well acquainted with the ford, and we succeeded in getliw every thing safe over to the left bank. We delayed here only a short time to put the gun in order, and, ascending a long mountain hill, left both rivers, and resumed our route again among the interior hills. The roar of the Falls of the Columbia is heard from the heights, where we halted a few moments to enjoy a fine view of the river below. In the season of high water it would be a very interesting object to visit, in orJet to witness what is related of the annual submerging of the fall under ttie waters which back up from the basin below, constituting a great natural lock at this place. But time had become an object of serious consideration: and the Falls, in their present state, had been seen and described by many After a day's journey of 17 miles, we encamped among the hills on a little clear stream, where, as usual, the Indians immediately gathered round us. Among them was a very old man, almost blind from age, with lon§ and very white hair. I happened of my own accord to give this old man a present of tobacco, and was struck with the impression which my un- propitiated notice made on the Indians, who appeared in a remarkable man ner acquainted with the real value of goods, and to understand the equiva- lents of trade. At evening, one of them spoke a few words to his ,jeo;>i» and, telling me that we need entertain no uneasiness in regard to uuraiii' mals, as none of them would be disturbed, they went all quietly away. It the morning, when they again came to the camp, 1 expressed to them the gratification ue felt at their reasonable conduct, making them a present ol some large knives and a few smaller articles. November 4. — The road continued among the hills, and, reaching ar.| before us in a little green valley, watered by a cleai| emmence, we saw stream, a tolerably large valley, through which the trail passed. In comparison with the Indians of the Rocky mountains and the greaij eastern plain, these are disagreeably dirty in their habits. Their huts were! crowded with half-naked women and children, and the atmosphere witlmj any thing but pleasant to persons who had just been riding in the frest morning air. We were somewhat amused with the scanty dress of oi.e| 187 [ 174] woman, who, in common with the others, rushed out of the huts on our arrival, and who, in default of other covering, used a child for a fig leaf. The road in about half an hour passed near an elevated point, from which we overlooked the valley of the Columbia for many miles, and saw in the distance several houses surrounded by fields, which a chief, who had accompanied us from the village, pointed out to us as the Methodist mis- sionary station. In a few miles we descended to the river, which wo reached at one of its remarkably interesting features, known as the Dalles of the Columbia. The whole volume of the river at this place passed between the walls of a chasm, which has the appearance of having been rent through the basaltic strata which form the valley rock of the region. At the narrowest place we fomid the breadth, by measurement, 58 yards, and the average height of the walls above the water 25 feet ; forming a trough between the rocks— whence the name, probably applied by a Canadian voyageur. The mass of water, in the present low state of the river, passed swiftly between, deep and black, and curled into many small whirlpools and counter cur- rents, but unbroken by foam, and so still that scarcely the sound of a ripple was heard. The rock, for a considerable distance from the river, was worn over a large portion of its surface into circular holes and well-like cavities, by the abrasion of the river, which, at the season of high waters, is spread out over the adjoining bottoms. In the recent passage through this chasm, an unfortunate event had oc- curred to Mr. Applegate's party, in the loss of one of their boats, which had been carried under water in the midst of the Dalles, and two of Mr. Ap- plegate's children and one man drowned. This misfortune was attributed only to want of skill in the steersman, as at this season there is no impedi- ment to navigation ; although the place is entirely impassable at high water, when boats pass safely over the great falls above, in the submerged state in which they then find themselves. The basalt here is precisely the same as that which constitutes the rock of the valley higher up the Columbia, being very compact, with a few round cavities. We passed rapidly three or four miles down the level valley, and en- camped near the mission. The character of the forest growth here changed, and we found ourselves, with pleasure, again among oaks and other forest trees of the east, to which we had long been strangers; and the hospitable and kind reception with which we were welcomed among our country people at the mission aided the momentary illusion of home. Two good-looking wooden dwelling houses, and a large school house, with stables, barn, and garden, and large cleared fields between the houses and the river bank, on which were scattered the wooden huts of an Indian village, gave to the valley the cheerful and busy air of civilization, and had in our eyes an appearance of abundant and enviable comfort. Our laud journey found here its western termination. The delay in- volved in getting our camp to the right bank of the Columbia, and in open- ing a road through the continuous forest to Vancouver, rendered a journey ong the river impracticable ; and on this side the usual road across the [mountain required strong and fresh animals, there being an interval of three days in which they could obtain no food. I therefore wrote imme- diately to Mr. Fitzpatrick, directing him to abandon the carls at the Walah- Uvalah missionary station, and, as soon as the necessary pack saddles could ( I ! I . J I Mi \^ . t# H ■'J: .^ i II '■•1 [ 174] 188 be made, which his party required, meet me at the Dalles, from which point I proposed to commence our homeward journey. The day after our ar- rival being Sunday, no business could be done at the mission; bin on Monday Mr. Perkins assisted me in procuring from the Indians a large ca- noe, in which I designed to complete our journey to Vancouver, where [ expected to obtain the necessary supply of provisions and stores for our winter journey. Three Indians, from the family to whom the canoe be- longed, were engaged to assist in working her during the voyage, and, wiih th jra, our water party consisted of Mr. Preuss and myself, with Bernier and Jacob Dodson. In charge of the party which was to remain at the Dalles 1 left Carson, with instructions to occupy the people in making pack saddles and refitting their equipage. The village from which we were to take the canoe was on the right bank of the river, about ten miles below, at the mouth of the Tinanens creek ; and while Mr. Preuss proceeded down the river with the instruments, in a little canoe paddled by two Indians, Mr. Perkins accompanied me with the remainder of the party by land. The last of the emigrants had just left the Dalles at the time of our arrival, trav. elling some by water and others by land, making ark-like rafts, on which they had embarked their families and household, with their large wagons and other furniture, while their stock were driven along the shore. For about five miles below the Dalles, the river is narrow, and probably very deep ; but during this distance it is somewhat open, with grassy bot- toms on the left. Entering, then, among the lower mountains of the Cas- cade range, it assumes a general character, and high and steep rocky hills shut it in on either side, rising abruptly in places to the height of 1,500 feet above the water, and gi'adually acquiring a more mountainous char- acter as the river approaches the Cascades. After an hour's travel, when the sun was nearly down, we searched along the shore for a pleasant place, and halted to prepare supper. We had beea well supplied by our friends at the mission with delicious salted salmon, which had been taken at the fattest season ; also, with potatoes, bread, cof- fee, and sugar. We were delighted at a change in our mode of travelling | and living. The canoe sailed smoothly down the river: at night we en- camped upon the shore, and a plentiful supply of comfortable provisions 1 supplied the first of wants. We enjoyed the contrast which it presentedto ! our late toilsome marchings, our night watchings, and our frequent priva- tion of food. We were a motley group, but all happy : three unknown In- dians; Jacob, a colored man; Mr. Preuss, a German; Bernier, Creole j French ; and myself. Being now upon the ground explored by the South Sea expedition under I Captain Wilkes, and having accomplished the object of uniting my survey with his, and thus presenting a connected exploration » .om the Mississippi | to the Pacific, and the winter being at hand, I deemed it necessary to econ- omize time by voyaging in the night, as is customary here, to avoid the j high winds, which rise with the morning, and decline with the day. Accordingly, after an hour's halt, we again embarked, and resumed our I pleasant voyage down the river. The wind rose to a gale after several hours ; but the moon was very brig]it,and the wind was fair, and the canoe glanced rapidly down the stream, the waves breaking into foam alongside; and our night voyage, as the wind bore us rapidly along between the dark mountains, was wild and interesting. About midnight we put to the shore on a rocky beach, behind which was a dark-looking pine forest. We built] ■ n 189 [ 174] up large fires among the rocks, which were in large masses round about ; and arranging our blankets on the most sheltered places we could find, passed a delightful night. Afteran early breakfast, at daylight we resumed our journey, the weather being clear and beautiful, and the river smooth and still. On either side the mountains are all pine-timbered, rocky, and high. We were now ap- proaching one of the marked features of the lower Columbia, where the liver forms a great cascade, with a series of rapids, in breaking through the ranee of mountains to which the lofty peaks of Mount Hood and St. Helens belong, and which rise as great pillars of snow on either side of the passage. The main branch of the Sacramento river, and the Tlumath, issue in ca.s- cades from this range ; and the Columbia, breaking through it in a succes- sion of cascades, gives the idea of cascades to the whole range ; and hence the name of the Cascade Ran^e, which it bears, and distinguishes it from the Coast Range lower down, lu making a short turn to the scuth, the river forms the cascades in breaking over a point of agglomerated masses of rock, leaving a handsome bay to the right, with several rocky pine-covered islands, and the mountains sweep at a distance around a cove where several small streams enter the bay. In less than an hour we halted on the left bank, about five minutes' walk above the cascades, where there were several Indian huts, and where our guides signified it was customary to hire Indians to assist in making the portage. When travelling with a boat as light as a canoe, which may easily be carried on the shoulders of the Indians, this is much the better side of the river for the portage, as the ground here is very good and level, being a handsome bottom, which I remarked was covered [as was now always the case along the river) with a growth of green and fresh-looking grass. It was long before we could come to an un- derstanding with the Indians ; but at length, when they had first received the price of their assistance in goods, they went vigorously to work ; and, in a shorter time than had been occupied in making our arrangements, the canoe, instruments, and baggage, were carried through (a distance of about half a mile) to the bank below the main cascade, where we again em- barked, the water being white with foam among ugly rocks, and boiling into a thousand whirlpools. The boat passed with great rapidity, crossing and recrossing in the eddies of the current. After passing through about 2 miles of broken water, we ran some wild-looking rapids, which are called the Lower Rapids, being the last on the river, which below is tranquil and smooth— a broad, magnificent stream. On a low broad point on the right bank of the river, at the lower end of these rapids, were pitched many tents of the emigrants, who were waiting here for their friends from above, or for boats and provisions which were expected from Vancouver. In our passage down the rapids, I had noticed their camps along the shore, or transporting their goods across the portage. This portage makes a head of navigation, ascending the river. It is about two miles in length ; and above, to the Dalles, is 45 miles of smooth and good navigation. We glided on witho„ further interruption between very rocky and high steep mountains, which sweep along the river valley at a little distance, covered with forests of pine, and showing occasionally lofty escarpments of red rock. Nearer, the shore is bordered by steep escarped hills and huge vertical rocks, from which the waters of the mountain reach the river in a variety of beautiful falls, sometimes several hundrsd feet in height. Occa- sionally along the river occurred pretty bottoms, covered with the greenest d M ^' i ,i , . M ; i J LI , f \ne trees,, are standing along the shore, and in the water, where they may be seen at a considerable depth below the surface, in the beautifully clear water. These collections of dead trees arecalled on the Columbia the subrnerged/oresl, and'^rcmpposed to have been created by the effects of some convulsion which formed the cascades, and which, by damming up the river, placed these trees under water and destroyed them. But I venture to presume that the cascades are older than the trees; and as these submerged forests occur at five or six placesalong the river, I had an opportunity to satisfy myself that they have been formed by immense land slides (torn the mountains, which here closely shut in the river, and which brought down with them into the river the pines of the mountain. At one place, on the right bank, I remarked a place where a portion of one of these slides seemed to have planted itself, with all the evergreen foliage, and the vegetation of the neighboring hill, directly amidst the falling and yellow leaves of the river trees. It occurred to me that this would have been a beautiful illustration to the eye of a botanist. Following the course of a slide, which was very plainly marked along the mountain, 1 found that in the interior parts the trees were in their usual erect position; but at the extremity of the slide they were rocked about, and thrown into a confusion of inclinations. About 4 o'clock in the afternoon we passed a sandy bar in the river, whence we had an unexpected view of Mount Hood, bearing directly I south by compass. During the day we used oar and sail, and at night had again a delight- |ful camping ground, and a dry place to sleep upon. November 18. — The day again was pleasant and bright. At 10 o'clock [we passed a rock island, on the right shore of the river, which the Indians use as a burial ground ; and, halting for a short time, about an hour after- wards, at the village of our Indian friends, early in the afternoon we ar- [ lived again at the Dalles. Carson had removed the camp up the river a little nearer to the hills, I where the animals had better grass. We found every thing in good order, and arrived just in time to partake of an excellent roast of California beef. My friend Mr. Gilpin had arrived in advance of the party. His object in visiting this country had been to obtain correct information of the Walah- mette settlements ; and he had reached this point in his journey, highly Ipleased with the country over which he had travelled, and with invigorat- jed health. On the following day he continued his journey, in our return ing boats, to Vancouver. 'i: 4^1! ' >i M 'f' 14 ,0 K ■'■ I [ 174 ] 196 . 'iiii The camp was now occupied in making the necessary preparations for our homeward journey, which, though homeward, contemplated a new route, and a great circuit to the south and southeast, and the exploration of the Great Basin between the Rocky moutitainsand the Sierra Nevada. Three principal objects were indicated, by re()ort or by maps, as being on this route ; tlie ciiuracter or existence of which I wislied to ascertain, and •which I assumed as landmarks, or leading points, on the projected line of return. The first of tiiese points was the Tlamalh lake, on the table land between the head of Fall rivor, which comes to the Columbia, and the Sacramento, which goes to the bay of San Francisco ; and from which lake a river of the same name makes its way westwardly direct to the ocean. This lake and river are often called Klamet, but I have chosen to write its name according to the Indian pronunciation. The position of this lake, on the line of inland communication between Oregon and Cali- fornia ; its proximity to the demarcation boundary of latitude 4 1°\ its im- puted double character of lake, or meadow, according to tbj season of the year ; and (Ik hostile and warlike character attributed to the Indians about it — all made it a desirable object to visit and examine From this lake our course was intended to be about southeast, to a reported lake called Mary's, at some days* journey in the Great Basin ; and thence,still on southeast, to the reputed Buenaventura river, which has had a place in so many maps, and countenanced the belief of the existence of a great river flowing from the Rocky mountains to tlie bay of San Francisco, From the Buenaventura the next point was intended to be in that section of the Rocky mountains which includes the heads of Arkansas river, and of the opposite waters of the Galifornian gulf* and thence Jown the Ar- kansas to Bent's fort, and home. This was our projected Wym of return- a great part of it absolutely new to geographical, botanic;.; and geological science — and the subject of reports in relation to lakes, rivers, deserts, and savages hardly above the condition of mere wild animals, which inflamed desire to knov^* what this terra incognita really contained. It was a se- rious enterprise, at the commencement of winter, to undertake the traverse of such a region, and with a party consisting only of twenty -five persons. and they of many nations — American, French, German, Canadian, Indian, and colored— and most of them young, several being under twenty-one years of age. All knew that a strange country was to be explored, and dangers and hardships to be encountered ; but no one blenched at the pros- pect. On the contrary, courage and confidence animated the whole party. Cheerfulness, readiness, subordination, prompt obedience, characterized all; nor did any extremity of peril and privation, to which we were afterwards exposed, ever belie, or derogate from, the fine spirit of this brave and gen- erous commencement. The course of the narrative will show at what point, and for what reasons, we were prevented from the complete execu- tion of this plan, after having made considerable progress upon it, and how we were forced by desert plains and mountain ranges, and deep snows, far to the south and near to the Pacific ocean, and along the western base of the Sierra Nevada ; where, indeed, a new and ample field of exploration opened itself before us. For the present, we must follow the narrative. which will first lead us south along the valley of Fall river, and the east- ern base of the Cascade range, to the TIamath lake, from which, or its margin, three rivers go in three directions — one west, to the ocean ; another north, to the Columbia ; the third south, to California. 197 c «"<: For the support of iho party, I had provided at Vancouver a supply of provisions for not less than three months, consisting principally of Hour, peas, and tallow — the latter being used in cooking; and, in addition to this, I had purchased at the mission some California cattle, which wore to bo driven on the hoof. We had 104 mules and horses — part of the latter pro- cured from the Indians about the mission ; and for the sustenance of which, ourrolianco wns upon the grass which we should find, and the soft porous wood, which was to be its substitute when there was none. Mr. FKzpairick, with Mr. Tulbot and the remainder of our party, arriv- ed on the 2l8t; and the camp was now closely engaged in the labor of preparation. Mr. Perkins succeeded in obtaining as a guide to the Tlamath lako two Indians — one of whom hud been there, and bore the marks of several wounds he had received from some of the Indians in the neighbor* hood ; and the other went along for company. In order to enable us to obtain horses, he despatched messengers to the various Indian villages in the neighborltood, informing them that we were desirous to purchase, and appointing a day for them to bring them in. We nm(k|in the mean time, several excursions in the vicinity. Mr. Perkins wffRed with Mr. Preuss and myself to the heights, about nine miles distant, on the opposite side of the river, whence, in fine weather, an exten- sive view may be had over the mountains, including seven great peaks of the Cascade range ; but clouds, on this occasion, destroyed the anticipated pleas- ure, and we obtained bearings only to three that were visible : Mount Reg- nier, St. Helens, and Mount Hood. On the heights, about one mile south of the mission, a very fine view may be had of Mount Hood and St. Helens. In order to determine their positions with as much accuracy as possible, the angular distances of the peaks were measured with the sextant, at dif- ferent fixed points from which they could be seen. The Indians brought in their horses at the appointed time, and we suc- ceeded in obtaining a number in exchange for goods ; but they were rela- tively much higher here, where goods are plenty and at moderate prices, than we had found them in the more eastern part of our voyage. Several of the Indians inquired very anxiously to know if we had any dollars; and the horses we procured were much fewer in number than I had desired, and of thin, inferior quality ; the oldest and poorest being those that were sold to us. These horses, as ever in our journey you will have occasion to remark, are valuable for hardihood and great endurance. November 24. — At this place one of the men was discharged ; and at the request of Mr. Perkins, a Chinook Indian, a lad of nineteen, who was ex- tremely desirous to " see the whites," and make ^ome acquaintance with our institutions, was received into the party, under my special charge, with the understanding that I would again return him to his friends. He had lived for some time in the household of Mr. Perkins, and spoke a few words of the English language. November 25. — We were all up early, in the excitement of turning to- wards home. The stars were brilliant, and the morning cold — the ther- mometer at daylight 26°. Oiir preparations had been finally completed, and to-day we commenced oiir journey. The little wagon which had hitherto carried the instruments I judged it necessary to abandon ; and it was accordingly presented to the mission. In all our long travelling, it had never been overturned or injured by any accident of the road j and the only things broken were the glass \< ■ \' I: I i ■^h I \l\ C 174] 198 ii'^ Tf '*iti ,m 1 lamps, and one of the front panels, which had been kicked out by an ui, ruly Indian horse. The howitzer was the only wheeled carriage now re- maining. We started about noon, when the weather had become din- agreeably cold, with flurries of snow. Our friend Mr. Perkins, whose kindkess had been active and efficient during our stay, accompanied us sey. eral miles on our road; when he bade us farewell, and consigned us to the care of our guides. Ascending to the uplands beyond the southern fork of ♦he Tinanens creek, we found the snow lying on the ground in frequent patches, although the pasture appeared good, and the new short grass was fresh and green. We. travelled over high, hilly land, and encamped on a little branch of Tinanens creek, where there were good grass and timber, The southern bank was covered with snow, which was scattered over the bottom ; and the little creek, its borders lined with ice, had a chilly and wintry look. A number of Indians had accompanied us so far on our road, and remained with us during the night. Two bad-looking fellows, who were detected in stealing, were tied and laid before the fire, and guard mounted over them during the night. The night was cold, and partially clear. j^ November 26. — The morning was cloudy and misty, and Wr afew stars visible. During the night water froze in the tents, and at sunrise the ther- mometer Was at 20°. Left camp at 10 o'clock, the road leading along tribu- taries of the Tinanens, and being, so far, very good. We turned to the right at the fork of the trail) ascending by a steep ascent along a spur to the dividing grounds between this stream and the waters of Fall river. The creeks we had passed were timbered principally with oak and other de- ciduous trees. Snow lies every where here on the ground, and we had a slight fall during the morning ; but towards noon the gray sky yielded to a bright sun. This morning we had a grand view of St. Helens and Reg- nier ; the latter appeared of a conical form, and very lofty, leading the eye far up into the sky. The line of the timbered country is very distinctly marked here, the bare hills making with it a remarkable contrast. The summit of the ridge commanded a fine view of the Taih prairie, and the stream running through it, which is a tributary to the Fall river, the chasic of which is visible to the right. A steep descent of a mountain hill brough; us down into the valley, and we encamped on the stream after dark, guided by the light of fires, which some naked Indians belonging to a village on the opposite side were kindling for us on the bank. This is a large branch of the Fall river. There was a broad band of thick ice some fifteen feet wide on either bank, and the river current is swift and bold. The night Tv^as cold and clear, and we made our astronomical observation this even- ing with the thermometer at 20°. In anticipation of coming hardship, and to spare our horses, there was ir uch walking done to-day ; and Mr. Fitzpatrick and myself made the day's journey on foot. Somewhere near the mouth of this stream are the falls from which the river takes its name. November 27. — A fine view of Mount Hood this morning ; a rose-colored mass of snow, bearing S. 85° W. by compass. The sky is clear, and the air cold; the thermometer 2°.5 below zero; the trees and bushes glittering white, and the rapid stream filled with floating ice. Stiletsi and the White Crane, two Indian chiefs who had accompanied us thus far, took their leave, and we resumed our journey at 10 c'clock. We ascended by a steep hill from the river bottom, which is sandy, to a I' . t!l 199 rairie, and the [ 174] volcanic plain, around which lofty hills sweep in a regii^ ir form. It is cut up by gullies o( basaltic rock, escarpments of which appear every where in the hills. This plain is called the Taih prairie, and is sprinkled with some scattered pines. The country is now far more interesting to a traveller than the route along the Snake and Columbia rivers. To our right we had always the mountains, from the midst of whose dark pine foiests the isolated snowy peaks were looking out like giants. They served us for grand beacons to show the rate at which we advanced in our journey. Mount Hood was already becoming an old acquaintance, and, when we ascended the prairie, we obtained a bearing to Mount Jefferson, S. 23° W. The In- dian supe retition has peopled these lofty peaks with evil spirits, and they have never yet known the tread of a human foot. Sternly drawn against the sky, they look so high and steep, so snowy and rocky, that it would appear almost impossible to climb them ; but still a trial would have its attractions for the adventurous traveller. A small trail takes off through the prairie, to||fards a low point in the range, and perhaps there is here a pass into the Walahmette valley. Crossing the plain, we descended by a rocky hill into the bed of a tributary of Fall river, and made an early en- campment. The water was in holes, and frozen over, and we were obliged to cut through the ice for the animals to drink. An ox, which was rather troublesome to drive, was killed here for food. The evening was* fine, the sky being very clear, and I obtained an im- mersion of the third satellite, with a good observation of an emersion of the first; the latter of which gives for the longitude, 121° 02' 43"; the latitude, by observation, being 45° 06' 45". The night was cold — the ther- mometer during the observations standing at 9°. November 28. — The sky was clear in the morning, but suddenly clouded over, and at sunrise began to snow, with the thermometer at 18°. We traversed a broken high country, partly timbered with pine, and about noon crossed a mountainous ridge, in which, from the rock occa- sionally displayed, the formation consists of compact lava. Frequent tracks of elk were visible in the snow. On our right, in the afternoon, a high plain, partially covered with pine, extended about ten miles, to the foot of the Cascade mountains. At evening we encamped in a basin narrowly surrounded by rocky hills, after a day's jouiney of 21 miles. The surrounding rocks are either vol- canic products, or highly altered by volcanic action, consisting of quartz and reddish-colored siliceous masses. November 29. — We emerged from the basin, by a narrow pass, upon a considerable branch of Fall river, running to the eastward through a nar- row valley. The trail, descending this stream, brought us t8 a locality of hot springs, which were on either bank. Those on the left, which were formed into deep handsome basins, would have been delightful baths, if the outer air had not been so keen, the thermometer in these being at 89°. There were others, on the opposite side, at the foot of an escarpment, in which the temperature of the water was 134°. These waters deposited around the spring a brecciated mass of quartz and feldspar, much of it of a reddish color. We crossed the stream here, and ascended again to a high plain, from an elevated point of which we obtained a view of six of the great peaks — Mount Jefferson, followed to the southward by two others of the same class; and succeeding, at a still greater distance to the southward, were three other 'i '^1 •I ^1 , I t'* C i''*! 200 1! ■'-Jl' lower peaks, clustering together in a branch ridge. These, like the great peaks, were snowy masses, secondary only to them ; and, from the best ex- amination our time permitted, we are inclined to believe that the range to which they belong is a branch from the great chain which here bears to the westward. The trail during the remainder of the day followed near to the large stream on the left, which was continuously walled in between high rocky banks. We halted for the night on a little by-stream. November 30. — Our journey to-day was short. Passing over a high plain, on which were scattered cedars, with frequent beds of volcanic rock in fragments interspersed among the grassy grounds, we arriveii suddenly on the verge of the steep and rocky descent to the valley of the stream we had been following, and which here ran directly across our path, emerging from the mountains on the right, you will remark that the country is abundantly watered with large streams, which pour down from the neigh- boring range. These streams are characterized by the narrow and chs^hi-like valleys in which they run, generally sunk a thousand feet below the plain. At the verge of this plain, they frequently commence in vertical precipices of basaltic rock, and which leave only casual places at which they can be entered by horses. The road across the country, which would otherwise be very good, is rendered impracticable for wagons by th^se streams. There is another trail among the mountains, usually followed in the summer, which the snows now compelled us to avoid; and I have reason to believe that this, passing nearer the heads of these streams, would afford a much better road. At such places, the gun carriage was unlimbered, and separately descend- ed by hand. Continuuig a few miles up the left bank of the river, we en- camped early in an open bottom among the pines, a short distance below a lodge of Indians. Here, along the river the bluffs present escarpments seven o\ eight hundred feet in height, containing strata of a very fine porce- lain clay, overlaid, at the height of about five hundred feet, by a massive stratum of compact basalt one hundred feet in thickness, which again is suc- ceeded above by other strata of volcanic rocks. The clay strata are variously colored, some of them very nearly as white as chalk, and very fine grained, Specimens brought from these have been subjected to microscopical exami- nation by Professor Bailey, of West Point, and are considered by him to constitute one of the most remarkable deposites of fluviatile infusoria on record. While they abound in genera and species which are common in fresh water, but which rarely thrive where the water is even brackish, not one decidedly marine form is to be found among them ; and tlieir fresh- water origin is therefore beyond a doubt. It is equally certain that they lived and died at the situation where they were found, as they could scarce- ly have been transported by running waters without an admixture of sandy particles ; from which, however, they are remarkably free. Fossil infusoria of a fresh- water origin had been previously detected by Mr. Bailey iu speci- mens brought by Mr. James D. Dana from the tertiary formation of Ore- gon. Most of the species in those specimens differed so much from those now living and known, that he was led to infer that they might belong to extinct species, and considered them also as affording proof of an alterna- tion, in the formation from which they were obtained, of fresh and salt water deposites, which, common enough in Europe, had not hitherto been noliced in the United States. Coming evidently from a locality entirely different, our ^ y I 201 [ m] le river, we en- different, our specimens* show very few species in common with those brought by Mr. Dana, but bear a much closer resemblance to those inhab- iting the northeastern States. It is possible that they are from a more re- cent deposite ; but the presence of a few remarkable forms which are com- mon to the two localities renders it more probable that there is no great difference in their age. I obtained here a good observation of an emersion of the second satellite ; but clouds, which rapidly overspread the sky, prevented the usual number of observations. Those which we succeeded in obtaining are, however, good; an^lfive for the latitude of the place 44° 35' 23", and for the longi- tude from the satellite 121° 10' 25". December 1. — A short distance above our encampment, we crossed this river, which was thickly lined along its banks with ice. In common with all these mountain streams, the water was very clear, and the current swift. It was not every where fordable, and the water was three or four feet deep at our crossin^and perhaps a hundred feet wide. As was frequently the case at such places, one of the mules got his pack, consisting of sugar, thoroughly wet, and turned into molasses. One of the guides informed me that this Avas a "salmon water," and pointed out several ingeniously contrived places to catch the fish ; among the pines in the bottom I saw an immense one, about twelve feet in diameter. A sleep ascent from the op- posite bank delayed us again ; and as, by the information of our guides, grass would soon become very scarce, we encamped on the height of land, in a marshy place among the pines, where there was an abundance of grass. We found here a single Nez Perc6 family, who had a very hand- some horse in their drove, which we endeavored to obtain in exchange for a good cow ; but the man " had two hearts," or, rather, he had one and his wife had another : she wanted the cow, but he loved the horse too much to part with it. These people attach great value to cattle, with which they are endeavoring to supply themselves. December 2. — In the first rays of the sun, the mountain peaks this morn- ing presented a beautiful appearance, the snow being entirely covered with a hue of rosy gold. We travelled to-day over a very stony, elevated plain, about which were scattered cedar and pine, and encamped on another large branch of Fall river. We were gradually ascending to a more elevated region, which would have been indicated by the rapidly increasing quanti- ties of sn.w and ice, had we not known it by other means. A mule which was packed with our cooking utensils wandered off among the pines unper- ceived, and several men were sent back to search for it. December 3. — Leaving Mr. Fitzpatrick with the party, I went ahead with the howitzer and a few men, in order to gain time, as our progress with the gun was necessarily slower. The country continued the same — very stony, with cedar and pine ; and we rode on until dark, when we en- camped on a hill side covered with snow, which we used to-night for water, as we were unable to reach any stream. December 4. — Our animals had taken the back track, although a great number were hobbled ; and W3 were consequently delayed until noon. Shortly after we had left this encampment, the mountain trail from the * The specimena obtained at this locality are designated in the appendix by the Nos. 53, 64, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60. The results obtained by Mr. Bailey in his examination of specimens from the infusorial strataJpHth a plate exhibiting some of the most interesting formB, will be found im- •wdied in the appcnmx. m H-m i: i.: i '^ ■!'( I- I'-! C "4 3 202 'iv \' 111 V iil!- |! if * ilrS ilili ^1 ]^ Dalles joined that on which we were travelling. After passing for several miles over an artemisia plain, the trail entered a beautiful pine forest through which we travelled for several hours ; and about 4 o'clock descended into the valley of another large branch, on the bottom of which were spaces of open pines, with occasional meadows of good grass, in one of which we encamped. The stream is very swift and deep, and about 40 feet wide, and nearly half frozen over. Among the timber here, are larches 140 feet high, and over 3 feet in diameter. We had to-night the rare sight of a lunar. rainbow. December 5. — To-day the country was all pine forest, ami beautiful weather made our journey delightful. It was too w^irm at uooti' for winter clothes ; and the snow, which lay every where in patches through the forest, was melting rapidly. After a few hours' ride, we came upon a fine stream in the midst of the forest, which proved to be the principal branch of Fall river. It was occasionally 200 feet wide — sometimes narrowed to 50 feet; the waters very clear, and frequently deep. We ascended^ioiig the river, which sometimes presented sheets of foaming cascades ; its banks occa- sionally blackened with masses of scoriated rock, and found a good en- campment on the verge of an open bottom, which had been an old camp- ing ground of the Cayuse Indians. A great number of deer horns were lying about, indicating game in the neighborhood. The timL was uni- formly large ; some of the pines measuring 23 feet in circuiiifere..ce at the ground, and 12 to 13 feet at six feet above. In all our journeying, we had never travelled through a country where the rivers were so abounding in falls, and the name of this stream is singu- larly characteristic. At every place where we come in the neighborhood of the river, is heard the roaring of falls. The rock along the banks of the stream, and the ledge over which it falls, is a scoriated basalt, with a bright metallic fracture. The stream goes over in one clear pitch, succeeded by a foaming cataract of several hundred yards. In the little bottom above the falls, a small stream discharges into an entonnoir, and disappears be" iw, We had made an early encampment, and in the course of the evening Mr. Fitzpatrick joined us here with the lost mule. Our lodge poles were nearly v/orn out, and we found here a handsome set,, .aning against one of the trees, very white, and cleanly scraped. Had the owners been here, we would have purchased them ; but as they were not, we merely left the old ones in their place, with a small quantity of tobacco. December 6. — The morning was frosty and clear. We continued up the stream on undulating forest ground, over which there was scattered much fallen timber. We met here a -village of Nez Perce Indians, who appeared to he coming down from the mountains, and had with them fine bands of horses. With them were a few Snake Indians of the root-diggiug species. From the forest we emerged into an open valley ten or twelve miles wide, through which the stream was flowing tranquilly, upward of two hundred feet broad, with occasional islands, and bordered with fine broad bottoms. Crossing the river, which here issues from a great moun- tain ridge on the right, we continued up the southern and smaller branch, over a level country^ consisting of fine meadow land, alternating with pine forests, and encamped on it early in the evening. A warm sui»shine made the day pleasant. December 7. — To-day we had good travelling ground ^he trail leading sometimes over rather sandy soils in the pine forest, ancwometimes over lI. 203 C "4] jneadow land along the stream. The great beauty of the country in summer coDstanily suggested itself to our imaginations; and even now we found it beautiful, as we rode along these meadows, from half a mile to two miles wide. The rich soil and excellent water, surrounded by noble forests, make a picture that would delight the eye of a farmer ; and I regret that the very small scale of the map would not allow us to give some repre- i sentaticn of these features of the country. I observed to-night an occultation of »? Geminorum ; which, although at the bright limb of the moon, appears to give a very good result, that has been adopt^ for the longitude. The occultation, observations of satellites, and our position deduced from daily surveys with the compass, agree re- I markably well together, and mutually supMg^rt and strengthen each other. The latitude of the camp is 43° 30' 36"; and longitude, deduced from the I occultation, 121° 33' 50". December 8. — To-day we crossed the last branch of the Fall river, issu- ing, like all the others we had crossed,' in a southwesterly direction from the mountains. Our direction was a little east of south, tb irail leading con- stantly through pine forests. The soil was generally bare, consisting, in I greater part, of a yellowish white p\ynice stone, producing varieties of I magnificent pines, but not a blade of grass ; eend to-night our horses were oijliged to do without food, and use snow for water. These pines are re- markable for the red color of the bolls ; and among them occurs a species, of which the Indians had informed lue when leaving the Dalles. The un- usual size of the cone (16 or 18 inches long) had attracted their attention; and they pointed it out to me among the curiosities of the country. They are more remarkable for their large diameter than their height, which usually averages only about 120 feet. The leaflets are short — only two or three inches long, and five in a sheath • the bark of a red color. December 9. — The trail leads alu .ys through splendid pine forests. Crossing dividing grounds by a very fine road, we descended very gently towards the south. The weather was pleasant, and we halted late. The soil was very much like that of yesterday ; and on the surface of a hill, near our encampment, were displayed beds of pumice ston j ; but the soil produced no grass, and again the animals fared badly. December 10. — The country began to improve ; and about 11 o'clock we reached a spring of cold water on the edge of a savannah, or grassy mea- dow, which our guides informed us was an arm of the Tlamath lake ; and a few miles further we entered upon an extensive meadow, or lake of grass, surrounded by timbered mountains. This was the Tlamath lake. It was a picturesque and beautiful spot, and rendered more attractive to us by the abundant and excellent grass, which our animals, after travelling through pine forests, so much needed; but the broad sheet of water which consti- tutes a lake was net to be seen. Overlooking it, mimediately west, were I several snowy knobs, belonging to what we have considered a branch of ; the Cascade range. A low point covered with pines made out into the lake, which afforded us a good place for an encampment, and for the secu- rity of our horses, which were guarded in view on the open meadow. The [character of courage and hostility attributed to the Indians of this quarter I induced more than usual precaution ; and, seeing smokes rising from the middle of the lake (or savannah) and along the opposite shores, I directed the howitzer to be fired. It was the first time our guides had seen it dis- ! chargecf ; and the bursting oi ihe shell at a distance, which was something ■ }.' r i il"'^ f I k r . 'Il' ' I I I 174] 204 like the second fire of the gun, amazed and bewildered thein>vith delight. It inspired them with triumphant feelings ; but on the camps at a distance the effect was different, for the smokes in the lake and on the shores im- mediately disappeared. The point on which we were encamped forms, with the opposite eastern | shore, a narrow neck, connecting the body of the lake with a deep cove or bay which receives the principal affluent stream, and over the greater part of which the water (or rather ice) was at this time dispersed in shalk pools. Among the grass, and scattered over the prairie lake, appeared to ; be similar marshes. It is simply a shallow basin, which, for aiphort period at the time of melting snows, is covered with water from the neighboring mountains ; but this probablyl^on runs off, and leaves for the remainder | of the year a green savannah, through the midst of which the river Tla- math, which flows to the ocean, winds its way to the outlet on the south- western side. December 11. — No Indians made their appearance, and' I determined to I pay them a visit. Accordingly, the people were gathered together, and we rode out towards the village in the middle of the lake, which oneof ob guides had previously visited. Itl»cou!d not be directly approached, as a | large part of the lake appeared a marsh ; and there were sheets of ice amo the grass, on which our horses could not keep their footing. We therefore I followed the ^.uide for a considerable distance along the forest ; and then turned off towards the village, which we soon began to see was a few large j huts, on the tops of which were collected the Indians. When we had ar- rived within half a mile of the village, two persons were seen advancing to meet us; and, to please the fancy of our guides, we ranged ourselves into a long line, riding abreast, while they galloped ahead to meet thej strangers. We were surprised, on riding up, to find one of them a woman, having never before known a squaw to take any part in the business of war, They were the village chief and his wife, who, in excitement and alarmatl the unusual event and appearance, had come out to meet their fate together, The chief was a very prepossessing Indian, with very handsome features,] and a singularly soft and agreeable voice — so remarkable as to attract gen- eral notice. The huts were grouped together on the bank of the river, which, from | being spread out in»a shallow marsh at the upper end of the lake, was col- lected here into a single stream. They were large round huts, perhaps 201 feet in diameter, with rounded tops, on which was the door by which they [ descended into the interior. Within, they were supported by posts a beams. Almost like plants, these people seem to have adapted themselves tothel soil, and to be growing on what the immediate locality afforded. Their only subsistence at this time appeared to be a small fish, great quantities of j which, that had been smoked and dried, were suspended on strings about the lodge. Heaps of straw were lying around ; and'their residence in the midst of grass and rushes had taught them a peculiar skill in converting this material to useful purposes. Their shoes were made of straw or grass, which seemed well adapted for a snowy country ; and the women wore on their head a closely woven basket, which made a very good cap. Among | other things, were parti-colored mats a!jOUt four feet square, which we pur- chased to lay on the snow under our blankets, and to use for table cloths. I Numbers of singular-looking dogs, resembling wolves, were sitting on I 206 [ m] the tops of the huts ; and of these we purchased a young one, which, after its birthplace, was named TIamathv The language spoken by these In- dians is different from that of the Shoshonee atid Columbia river tribes ; and otherwise than by signs they cannot understand each other. They Lade us comprehend that they were at war with the people who lived to tiie southward and to the eastward ; but I could obtain from them no cer- tain information. The river on which they live enters the Cascade moun- tains on the western side of the lake, and breaks through them by a pas- sage impracticable for travellers ; but over the mountains, to the northward, are passes which present no other obstacle than in the almost impenetrable forests. Unlike any Indians we had previously seen, these wore shells in their noses. We returned to our camp, after remaining here an hour or I two, accompanied by a number of Indians. In order to recruit a little the strength of our animals, and obtain some I acquaintance with the locality, we remained here for the remainder of the day. By observation, the latitude of the camp was 42° 56' 51"; and the I diameter of the lake, or meadow, as has been intimated, about 20 miles. I It is a picturesque and beautiful spot;^nd, under the hand of cultivation, might become a little paradise. Game* found in the forest; timbered and snowy mountains skirt it, and fertility characterizes it. Situated near the I heads of three rivers, and on the line of inland communication with Cali- [fotiiia, and near to Indians noted for treachery, it will naturally, in the pro- gress of the settlement of Oregon, become a point for military occupation ! and settlement. From Tlamath lake, the further continuation of our voyage assumed, a character of discovery and exploration, which, from the Indians here, we [ could obtain no information to direct, and where the imaginary maps of the country, instead of assisting, exposed us to suffering and defeat. In our I journey across the desert, Mary's lake, and the famous Buenaventura river, were two points on which I relied to recruit the animals, and repose the party. Forming, agreeably to the best maps in my possession, a connected water line from the Rocky rhountains to the Pacific ocean, I felt no other anxiety than to pass safely across the intervening desert to the banks of the Buenaventura, where, in the softer climate of a more southern latitude, our horses might find grass to sustain them, and ourselves be sheltered from the rigors of winter and from the inhospitable desert. The guides who had conducted us thus far on oar journey were about to return ; and I endeavored in vain to obtain others to lead us, even for a few days, in the direction (east) which we wished to go. The chief to whom I applied alleged the want of horses, and the snow on the mountains across which our course would carry us, and the sickness of his family, as reasons for refusing to go with us. December 12. — This morning the camp was thronged with Tlamath Indians from the southeastern shore of the lake; but, knowing the treach- erous disposition which is a remarkable characteristic of the Indians south of the Columbia, the camp was kept constantly on its guard. I was not unmindful of the disasters which Smith and other travellers had met with in this country, and therefore was equally vigilant in guarding against treachery and violence. According to the best information I had been able to obtain from*lhe In- dians, in a few days' travelling we should reach another large water, prob- ably a lake, which .they indicated exactly in the course we were about to K;. If i Mi i* '} I ' i» M i '" , I J' ill r^i % ^ : .1; 1 ■ ! '■} 1 li 1 ! ' II ! i; ■; i •■ III ii'lr ' [ "4] 206 pursue. We struck our tents at 10 o'clock, and crossed the lake in a nearly east direction, where it has the least extension — the breadth of the arm being here only about a niile and a half. There were ponds of ice, with but little grass, for the greater part of the way ; and it was difficult to get the pack animals across, which fell frequently, and could not get 'p with their loads, unassisted. The morning was very unpleasant, snow lallingit intervals in large flakes, and the sky dark. In about two hours we sue. ceeded in getting the animals over; and, after travelling another hour along the eastern shore of the lake, we turned up into a cove where there was a sheltered place among the timber, with good grass, and encamped. The Indians, who had accompanied* us so far, returned to their village on the southeastern shore. Among the pines here, I noticed some five or six feet in diameter. December 13. — The night has been cold; the peaks around the lake gleam out brightly in the morning sun, and the thermometer is at zero. We continued up the hollow formed by a small afliuent to thj lake, and immediately entered an open pine forest on the mountain. The way here was sometimes obstructed by falleMtrees, and the snow was four to twelve inches deep. The mules at. the ^n pulled heavily, and walking was a little laborious. In the midst of the wood, we heard the sound of galloping horses, and were agreeably surprised by the unexpected arrival of our Tlamath chief, with several Indians. He seemed to have found his con- duct inhospitable in letting the strangers depart without a guide through the snow, and had come, with a few others, to pilot us a day or two on the way, After travelling in an easterly direction through the forest for aboiu four hours, we reached a considerable stream, with a border of good grass; and here, by the advice of our guides, we encamped. It is about thirty feet wide, and two to four feet deep; the water clear, with some current; and, according to the information of our Indians, is the principal affluent to the lake, and the head water of the Tlamath river. A very clear sky enabled the to obtain here to-night good observations, including an emersion of the first satellite of Jupiter, which give for the Ion* gitude 121° 20' 42", and for the latitude 42° 51' 26". This emersion coin- cides remarkably well with the result obtained from an occultation at the encampment of December 7th to 8th, 1 843 ; from which place, the line of our survey gives an easting of thirteen miles. The day's journey was 12 miles. December 14. — Our road was over a broad mountain, and we rode seven hours in a thick snow storm, always through pine forests, when we came down upon the head waters of another stream, on which there was grass. The snow lay deep on the ground, and only the high swamp grass appeared above. The Indians were thinly clad, and I had remarked during the day that they suffered from the cold. This evening they told me that the snow was getting too deep on the mountain, and I could not induce them to go any farther. The stream we had struck issued from the mountain in an easterly direction, turning to the southward a short distance below ; and, drawing its course upon the ground, they made us comprehend that it pur- sued its way for a long distance in that direction, uniting with many other streams, and gradually becoming a great river. Without the subsequent inforn^tion, which confirmed the opinion, we became immediately satisfied that this water formed the principal stream of the Sacramento river ; and, consequently, that this main affluent of the bay of San Francisco had its source within the limits of the United States, and opposite a tributary to the 207 [ 174] •^'Kk ake in a nearly Itli of the arm dsof ice, with difficult to get ot get 'p with snow mlliiigit hours we sue. her hour along re there was a camped. The village on the [lie five or six lere was grass. grass appeared during the day that the snow uce them to go nountain in an below ; and, md that it pur- th many other he subsequent lately satisfied ito river ; and, ancisco had iW ributary to tbe Columbia,and near the head of the Tlamath river, which goes to the ocean north of 42°, and within the United States. December 15. — A present, consisting of usf.ful goods, afforded much satis- faction to our guides ; and, showing them the national tlag, I explained that it was a*symbol of our nation ; and they engaged always to receive it in a friendly manner. The chief pointed out a course, by following which we would arrive at the big water, wheretio more snow was to be found. Trav- elling in a direction N. 60° E. by compass, which the indhms informed me would avoid a bad mountain to the rigl\t, we'crossed the Sacramento where it turned to the southward, and entered a grassy level plain — a smaller Grand Bond; from the lower end of 'vhich the river issued into an inviting country of low rolling hills. CroJ5sing a hard-frozen swamp on the farther side of the Rond, we entered again the pine forest, in which very deep snow made our travellhig slow and laborious. We were slowJv but gradually ascend- ing a mountain ; and, after a hard journey of seven -irs, we came to some naked places amongihe timber, where a few tufts of grass showed above the snow, on the side of a hollow ; and here we encamped. Our cow, which every day got poorer, was killed here, but the meat was rather tough. December 16. — We travelled»this morning through snow about three feet deep, which, being crusted, very much cut the feet of our animals. The mountain still gradually ro. e ; we crossed several spring heads covered with quaking asp; otherwise it was all pine forest. The air was dark with falling snow, which every where weighed down the trees. The depths of the forest were profoundly still ; and below, we scarce felt a breath of the wind which whirled the snow through their branches. I found that it required some exertion of constancy to adhere steadily to one course through the woods, when we were uncertain how far the forest extended, or what lay beyond j and, on account of our animals, it would be bad to spend another night on the mountain. Towards noon the forest looked clear ahead, appearing sud- denly to terminate ; and beyond a certain point we could see no trees. Riding rapidly ahead to this spot, we found ourselves on the verge of a ver- tical and rocky wall of the mountain. At our feet — more than a thousand feet below — we looked into a green prairie country, in which a beautiful lake, some twenty miles in length, was spread along the foot of the moun- tains, its shor^ bordered with green grass. Just then the sun broke out among the clouds, and illuminated the country below, while around us the storm raged fiercely. Not a particle of ice was to be seen on the lake, or snow on its borders, and all was likfe summer or spring. The glow of the sun in the valley below brightened up our hearts with sudden pleasure ; and we made the woods ring wuh joyful shouts to those behind ; and gradually, as each came up, he stopped to enjoy the unexpected scene. Shivering on snow three feet deep, and stiffening in a cold north wind, we exclaimed at once that the names of Summer Lake and Winter Ridge should be applied to these two proximate places of such sudden and violent contrast. We were now immediately on the verge of the forest land, in which we had been travelling so many days ; and, looking forward to the east, scarce a tree was to be seen. Viewed from our elevation, the face of the country exhibited only rocks and grass, and presented a region in which the arte- inisia became the principal wood, furnishing to its scattered inhabitants fuel for their fires, building material for their huts, and shelter for tiie small game which ministers to their hunger and nakedness. Broadly marked by the boundary of the mountain wall, and immediately below us, were the ' \- ': I ! ■J r!^ " I ij [ 174 ] 208 ill i'l ! 1 » 111 first waters of that Great Interior Basin which lias the Wahsatch and Bear river mountains for its eastern, and the Sierra Nevada for its western rim and the edge of which we had entered upwards of three months before, at the Great Salt lake. When we had sufficiently admired the scene below, we began Yith the same shrubs. There were flocks of ducks on the lake, and frequent tracks of Indians along the shore, where the grass had been recently burnt by their fires. We ascended the bordering mountain, in order to obtain a more perfect view of the lake in sketching its figure ; hills sweep entirely around its basin, from which the waters have no outlet. December 22. — To-day we left this forbidding lake. Impassable rockr ridges barred our progress to the eastward, and I accordingly bore offlo. wards the south, over an extensive sage plain. At a considerable distance ahead, and a little on our left, was a range of snowy mountains, and the country declined gradually towards the foot of a high and nearer ridgeim. mediately before us, which presented the feature of black precipices, now becoming common to the country. On the summit of the ridge, snow was visible ; and there being every indication of a stream at its base, we rode on until after dark, but were unable to reach it, and halted among thesage bushes on the open plain, without either grass or water. The two India- rubber bags had been filled with water in the morning, which afforded suf- ficient for the camp ; and rain in the night formed pools, which relieved the thrist of the animals. Where we encamped on the bleak sandy plain, the Indians had made huts or circular enclosures, about four feet high and twelve feet broad, of artemisia bushes. Whether these had been forts or houses, or what they had been doing in such a desert place, we could not ascertain December 23. — The weather is mild ; the thermometer at daylight 38'; the wind having been from the southward for several days. The country lias a very forbidding appearance, presenting to the eye nothing but sage and barren ridges. We rode up towards the mountain, along the foot of which we found a lake, which we could not approach on account of the roud ; and, passing around its southern end, ascended the slope at the foot of the ridge, where in some hollows we had discovered bushes and small trees — in such situations, a sure sign of water. We found here several springs, and the hill side was well sprinkled with a species of festuca- a better grass than we had found for many days. Our elevated posilioD gave us a good view over the country, but we discovered nothing very en- couraging. Southward, about ten miles distant, was another small lake, towards which a broad trail led along the ridge ; and this appearing to jifford the most practicable route, I determined to continue our journe)' in that direction. December 24. — We found the water of the lake tolerably pure, and en- camped at the farther end. There were some good grass and canes along the shore, and the vegetation at this place consisted principally of chenopo- diaceous shrubs. December 25. — We were roused, on Christmas morning, by a discharge from the small arms and howitzer, with which our people saluted the*tiay; and the name of which we bestowed on the lake. It was the first time, per- haps, ID this remote and desolate region, in which it had been so commem- orated. Always, on days of religious or national commemoration, our voy- ageurs expect some unusual allowance ; and, having nothing else, I ^y^ 211 [ m] them each a little brandy, (which was carefully guarded, as one of the mo»t useful articles a traveller can carry,) with some coffee and sugar, which here, where every eatable was a luxury, was sufficient to make them a feast. The tlay was sunny and warm ; and, resuming our journey, we crossed some slight dividing grounds into u similar basin, walled in on the right by a lofty mountain ridge. The plainly beaten trail still continued, and occa- sionally we passed camping grounds of the Indians, which indicated to m that we were on one of the great thoroughfares of the country. In t^ afternoon I attempted to travel in a more eastern direction ; but, after a f« ^,/ laborious miles, was beaten back into the basin by an impassable country There were tVesh Indian tr;iclc3 about the valley, and last night ahorse was stolen. We encamped on the valley bottom, where there was sonie cr'sam- like water in ponds, colored by a clay soil and frozen over. Chenopodi.tceous shrubs constituted the growth, and made again our fire wood. The animals were driven to the hill, where there was tolerably good grass. December 26. — Our general course was again south. The country con- sists of larger or smaller basins, into which the mountain waters run down, formini; small lakes ; they present a perfect level, from which the moun- tains rise immediately and abruptly. Between the successive basins, the dividing grounds are usually very slight ; and it is probable that, in the sea- sons of high water, many of these basins arc in communication. At such times there is evidently an abundance of water, though now we find scarce- ly more than the dry beds. On either side, the mountains, though not very high, appear to be rocky and lerile^ The basin in which v/e were travel- lingdcclincd towards the souuiwestrorner, where the mountains indicated a narrow outlet ; and, turning routid a rocky point or cape, we continued up a lateral branch valley, in which we encamped at night on a rapid, pretty little stream of fresh water, which we found unexpectedly among the sage near the ridge, on the right side of the valley. It was bordered with grassy boltoms and clumps of willows, the water partially frozen. This stream belongs to the basin we had left. By a partial observation to-night, our camp was found to be directly on the 42d parallel. To night a horse be- longing to Carson, one of the best we had in the camp, was stolen by the Indians. December 27. — We continued up the valley of the stream, the principal branch of which here issues from a bed of high mountains. We turned up a branch to the left, and fell into an Indian trail, which conducted us by a good road over open bottoms along the creek, where the snow was five or six inches deep. Gradually ascending, the trail led through a good broad pass in the mountain, where we found the snow about one foot deep. There were some remarkably large cedars in the pass, which were covered with an unusual quantity of frost, which we supposed might possibly indicate the neighborhood of water ; and as, in the arbitrary position of Mary's lake, we were already beginning to look for it, this circumstance contributed to i our hope of finding it near. Descending from the mountain, we reached j another basin, on the flat lake bed of which we found no water, and ^ncauped among the sage on the bordering plain, where the snow was still about one foot deep. Among this the grass was remarkably green, and to-night the animals fared tolerably well. j December 28. — The snow being deep, I had determined, if any more [liorses were stolen, to follow the tracks of the Indians into the mountains, ilH '•w ' I i I ! I I' i I h '} ' '1 if! ^ll •It ! t » I- ti C J74] 212 V |- :l ? ml \ and put a temporary check to their sly operations ; but it did not occur again. Our road th is morning lay down a level valley, bordered by steep moun. tainous ridges, rising very abruptly from the plain. Artemisia was the prin. cipal plant, ruingled with Fremontia and the chenopodiaceous shrubs. The artemisii was here extremely large, being sometimes a foot in diame- ter and eight feet high- Riding quietly along over the snow, we came sud- denly upon smokes rising among these bushes ; and, galloping up, we found two huts, open at the top, and loosely built of sage, which appeared to have l^een deserted at the instant; and, looking hastily around, we saw several Indians ol ihe crest of the ridge near by, and several others scrambling up the side. We had come '.:pon them so suddenly, that they had been well- nigh surprised in their lodges. A sage fire was burning in the mi(idle;a few basketo made of straw were lying about, with one or two rabbit skins; and there was a little grass scattered about, on which they had been lying, " Tabibo — bo !'■' they shouted from the hills — a word which, in the Snake j language, signifies «y/ii7£ — and remained looking at us from behind ihej rocks. Carson and Godey rode towards the hill, but the men ran offli deer. They had been so much pressed, that a woman with two children] haJ drc;>ped behind a sage bush near the lodge, and when Carson accident- ally stumbled upon her, she immediately began screaming in the extremity I of fear, and shut her eyes fast, to avoid seeing him. She was brought back to the lodge, and we endeavored in vain to open a communication with the men. By dint of presents, and friendly demonstrations, she was brouglit to calmness; and we found that they^belonged to the Snake nation, speak- ing ihe language of that people. Eight or ten appeared to live togetherj under the same little shelter ; and they seemed to have no other subsistence than the roots or seeds they might have stored up, and the hares which live in the sage, and which they are enabled to track through the snow, and are very skilful in killing. Their skins afford them a little scanty covering, Herding together among bushes, and crouching almost naked over a little sage fire, using their instinct only to procure food, these may be considered, among human beings, the nearest approach to the mere animal* creation. I We have reason to believe that these had never before seen the faceofii white man. The day had been pleasant, but about two o'clock it began to blow; and I crossing a slight dividing ground we encamped on the sheltered sideofa hill, where there was good bunch grass, having n>ade a day's journey of 2i miles. The night closed in, threatening snow ; but the large sage bushesj made bright fires. December 29. — The morning mild, and at 4 o'clock it commenced snow- ing. We took our way across a plain, thickly covered with snow,{3wardsj a range of hills in the southeast. The sky soon became so dark with snow,! that little could be seen of the surrounding country ; and we reached m summit of the hills in a heavy snow storm. On the side we had apr proached, this had appeared to be only a ridge of low hills ; and we were! surprised to find ourselves on the summit of a bed of broken mountains,! which, as i!i.. js the weather would permit us to see, declined rajWlywl some low country ahead, presenting a dreary and savage character; andl for a moment I looked around in doubt on the wild and inhospitable prosr pect, scarcely knowing what road to take which might conduct us tosomel place of shelter for the night, r^oticing aDiong the hills the bead of il 213 C 174 ] grassy hollow, I deterthi'ned to follow it, in the hope that it would conduct us to a stream. We followed a winding descent for several miles, the hol- low gradually broadening into little meadows, and becoming the bed of a stream ao we advanced ; and towards night we were agreeably surprised by the appearance of a willow grove, where we found a sheltered camp, with water and excellent and abundant grass. The grass, which was cov- ered by the snow on the bottom, was long and green, and the face of the Bounlain had a more favorable character in its vegetation, being smoother, and covered with good bunch grass. The snow was deep, and the night very cold. A broad trail had entered the valley from the right, and a short distance below the camp were the tracks where a considerable party of Indians had passed on horseback, who had turned out to the left, appa- rently with the view of crossing the mountains to the eastward. December 30. — After following the stream for a few hours in a south- easterly direction, it entered a canon where we could not follow ; but de- termined not to leave the stream, we searched a passage below, where we could regain it, and entered a regular narrow valley. The water had now more the appearance of a flowing creek ; several times we passed groves I of willows, and we began to feel ourselves out of all difficulty. From our poeition, it was reasonable to conclude that this stream would find its outlet Id Mary's lake, and conduct us into a better country. We had descended j rapidly, and here we found very little snow. On both sides, the mountains showed often stupendous and curious-looking rocks, which at several places ! so narrowed the valley, that scarcely pass was left fcr the camp. It was a singular place to travel through-|^ut up in the earth, a sort of chasm, the little strip of grass under ourleet, the rough walls of bare rock on either hand, and the narrow strip of sky above. The grass to-night was I abundant, and we encamped in high spirits. December 31. — After an hour's ride this morning, our hopes were once j more destroyed. The valley opened out, and before us again lay one of the dry basins. After some search, we discovered a high- water outlet, which brought us in a few miles, and by a descent of several hundred feet, into another long broad basin, in which we found the bed of a stream, and obtained sufficient water by cutting the ice. The grass on the bottoms jwassalt and unpalatable. Here we concluded the year 1843, and our new year's eve was rather la gloomy one. The result of our journey began to be very uncertain ; the country was singularly unfavorable to travel; the grasses being frequently of a very unwholesome character, and the hoofs of our animals were so worn and cut by the rocks, that many of them were lame, and could I scarcely be got along. New Year'^s day, 1844. — We continued down the valley, between a dry- looking black ridge on the left and a more snowy and high one on the right. Our road^was bad along the bottom, being broken by gullies and impeded by sage, and sandy on the hills, where there is not a blade of Igrass, nor does any appear on the mountains. The soil in many places jcon|i|8of a fine powdery sand, covered with a saline efflorescence; and jthe^Pieral character of the country is desert. During the day we di- rected our course towards a black cape, at the foot of which a column of smoke indicated hot springs. January 2. — We were on the road early, the face of the country hidden \oj falling snow. We travelled along the bed of the stream, in some places J' [ 174 ] 314 } ] i If dry, in others covered with ice ; the travelling being very bad, through deep fine sand, rendered tenacious by a mixture of clay. The weather cleared up a little at noon, and we reached the hot springs of which we had seen the vapor the day before. There was a large field of the usual salt grass here, peculiar to such places. The country otherwise is a per- fect barren, without a blade of grass, the only plants being some dwarf Fremontias. We passed the rocky cape, a jagged broken point, bare and torn. The rocks are volcanic, and the hills here have a burnt appear. ance — cinders and coal occasionally appearing as at a blacksmith's lorge. We crossed the large dry bed of a muddy lake in a southeasterly direction and encamped at night without water and without grass, among sage bushes covered with snow. The heavy road made several mules give out to-day; and a horse, which had made the journey from the States successfully thus far, was left on the trail. January 3. — A fog, so dense that we could not see a hundred yards, covered the country, and the men that were sent out after the horses were bewildered and lost ; and we were consequently detained at camp until late in the day. Our situation had now become a serious one. We had reached and run over the position where, according to the best maps in my possession, we should have found Mary's lake, or river. We were evidently on the verge of the desert which had been reported to us ; and the appearance of the country was so forbidding, that I was afraid to enter it, and determined to bear away to the southward, keeping close along the mountains, in the full expectation of reaching the Buenaventura river, This morning I put every man in tbljfeamp on foot — myself, of course, among the rest — and in this manner l^tened by distribution the loads of | the ar)imals. We travelled seven or eight miles along the ridge border- ing the valley, and encamped where there were a few bunches of grasson the bed of a hill |orrent, without water. There were some large artemi- sias ; but the principal plants are chenopodiaceous shrubs. The rock com- posing the mountains is here changed suddenly into white granite. The fog showed the tops of the hills at sunset, and stars enough for observations in the early evening, and then closed over us as before. Latitude by ob- servation, 40° 48' 15". January 4. — The fog to-day was still more dense, and the people again were bewildered. V^e travelled a few^ miles around the western point of the ridge, and encamped where there were a few tufts of grass, but no water. Our animals now were in a very alarming state, and there was in- creased anxiety in the camp. January 5. — Same dense fog continued, and one of the mules died in camp this morning. I have had occasion to remark, on such occasions as these, that animals which are about to die leave the band, and, coming into the camp, lie down about the fires. We moved to a place where there was a little better grass, about two miles distant. Taplin, one of out best men, who had gone out on a scouting excursion, ascended a mountain near by, and to his great surprise emerged into a region of bright sunshine, in which the upper parts of the mountain were glowing, while beluwaii was obscured in the darkest fog. ^ January Q. — The fog continued the same, and, with Mr. Preuss and Car* son, I ascended the mountain, to sketch the leading features of the country, as some indication of our future route, while Mr. Fitzpatrick explored the couniry below. In a very short distance we had ascended above the mist) id there was ia- 215 [ 174 ] but the view obtained was not very gratifying. The fog had partially cleared off from below when we reached the summit ; and in the south- west corner of a basin communicating with that in which we had encamp- ed, we saw a lofty column of smoke, 16 milesdistant, indicating the presence of hot springs. There, also, appeared to be the outlet of those draining channels of the country ; and, as such places aficWed always more or less grasf, 1 determined to steer in that direction. The ridge we had ascended appeared to be composed of fragments of white granite. We saw here traces of sheep and antelope. Entering the neighboring valley, and crossing the bed of another lake, after a hard day's travel over ground of yielding mud and sand, we reached the springs, where we found an abundance of grass, which, though only tolerably good, made this place, with reference to the past, a refreshing and agreeable spot. This is the most extraordinary locality of hot springs we had met during the journey. The basin of the largest one has a circumference of severs! hundred feet ; but there is at one extremity a circular space of about fifteen feet in diameter, entirely occupied by the boiling water. It boils up at ir- regular intervals, and with much noise. The water is clear, and the spring I deep; a pole about sixteen feet long was easily immersed in the centre, but we had no means of forming a good idea of the depth. It was surround- ed on the margin with a border of green grass, and near the shore the tem- ! perature of the water waa 206°. We had no means of ascertaining that of the centre, where the heat was greatest ; but, by dispersing the water with a pole, the temperature at thag|argin was increased to 208°, and in the centre it was doubtless higher.^^y driving the pole towards the hot- I torn, the water was made to boil up with increased force and noise. There are several other interesting places, where water and smoke or gas escape, but they would require a long description. The water is impregnated with common salt, but not so much so as to render it unfit for general cooking; and a mixture of snow made it pleasant to drink. In the immediate neighborhood, the valley bottom is covered almost ex- clusively with chenopodiaceous shrubs, of greater luxuriance, and larger growth, than we have seen them in any preceding part of the journey. 1 obtained this evening some astronomical observations. I Our situation now required caution. Including those which gave out from the injured condition o( their f'^et, and those stolen by Indians, we bad lost, since leaving the Dalles of the Columbia, fifteen animals ; and of these, nine had been left m the last few days. I therefore determined, un- til we should reach a country of water and vegetation, to feel our way. ahead, by having the line of rente explored some fifteen or twenty miles in advance, and only to leave a present encampment when the succeeding one was known. Taking with me Godey and Carson, I made to-day a thorough explora- tion of the neighboring valleys, and found in a ravine in the bordering I mountains a good camping place, where was water in springs, and a suffi- cient quantity of grass for a night. Overshading the springs were some [trees of the sw^et cottonwood, which, after a long interval of absence, we saw again with pleasure, regarding them as harbingers of a better country. To us, they were eloquent of green prairies and buffalo. We found here a broad and plainly marked trail, on which there were tracks of horses, and we appeared to have regained one of the thoroughfares which pass by the W i,; •/ i ■J: l^.'. * rt ) I -■■• %, '] ;ii ■p C 1-i ] 216 ' i f watering places of the country. On the western mountains of the valley with which this of the boiling spring communicates, we remarked scat- tered cedars — probably an indi^-^tion that we were on the borders of the timbered region extending to th^ Pacific. We reached the camp at sunset after a day's ride of aboi^orty miles. The horses we rode were in good order, being of some thaFwere kept for emergencies, and rarely used. Mr. Preuss had ascended one of the mountains, and occupied the day in sketching the country ; and Mr. Fitzpatrick had found, a few miles distant a hollow of excellent grass and pure water, to which the animals were driven, as I remained another day to give them an opportunity to recruit their strength. Indians appear to be every where prowling about like wild animals, and there is a fresh trail across the snow in the valley near. Latitude of the boiling springs, 40° 39 46". On the 9th w*e crossed over to the cottonw >d camp. Among the shrubs on the hills were a few bushes of ephedra "^'rAdentalis, which afterwards occurred frequently along our road, and, as usual, the lowlands were occu- pied with artemisia. While the party proceeded to this place, Carson and myself reconnoitred the road in advance, and found another good encamp. ment for the following day. January 10. — We continued our reconnoisance ahead, pursuing a souih direction in the basin a ng the ridge ; the camp following slowly ai'ter. On a large trail there is ne ^ - any doubt of finding suitable places f'^r encamp- ments. We reached the end of the basin, where we found, in a hollow of the mountain which enclosed it, an abundance of good bunch grass. Leaving a signal for the party to endipp, we continued our way up the hollow, intending to see what lay beyRid the mountain. The hollow was several miles long, forming a good pass, the snow deepening to about a foot as we neared the summit. Beyotid, a defile between the mountains descended rapidly about two thousand feet; and, filling up all the lower space, was a sheet of green water, some twenty miles broad. It broke upon our eyes like the ocean. The neighboring peaks rose high above us, and we ascended one of them to obtain a better view. The waves were curling in the breeze, and their dark-green color showed it to be a body of deep water. For a long time we sat enjoying the view, for we had become fatigued with mountains, and the free expanse of moving waves was very grateful. It was set like a gem in the mountains, which, from our position, seemed to enclose it almost entirely. At the western end it communicated with the line of basins we had left a few days since ; and on the opposite side it swept a ridge of snowy mountains, the foot of the great Sierra, lis position at first inclined us to believe it Mary's lake, but the rugged moun- tains were so entirely discordant with descriptions of its low rushy shores and open country, that we concluded it some unknown body of water; which it afterwards proved to be. On our road down, the next day, we saw herds of mountain sheep, and encamped on a little stream at the mouth of the defile, about a mile from the margin of the water, to which we hurried down immediately. The water is so slightly salt, that, at first, we thought it fresh, and would be pleasant to drink when no other could be had. The sbor^ was rocky— a handsome beach, which reminded us of the sea. On some large granite boulders that were scattered about the shore, I remarked a coating of a calcareous substance, in some places a few inches and in others a foot in thickness. Near our camp, the hills, which were of primitive rock, were 8 of the valley, remarked scat- borders of the camp at sunset, e were in good rarely used. ipied the day in V miles distant, animals were inity to recruit about like wild alley near. long the shrubs lich afterwards nds were occu- ce, Carson and • good encamp. ursuing a souih owly ai'ter. On es fi^r encamp- , in a hollow of 1 bunch grass. >ur way up the he hollow was ing to about a the mountains ) all the lower It broke upon igh above us, le waves were to be a body of we had become ?aves was very [D our position, communicated n the opposite ;at Sierra, lis rugged noun- V rushy shores ody of water; ain sheep, and Lit a mile from ■diately. The and would be was rocky— a large granite i coating of a thers a foot m ve rock, were ■ : i ii '.' T i r' ;i Wit ■4 iifil « ;,|rif also covered wl mountains aloii and has the app Where we h dians. January 13'.- the lake to the bottom ; but, af precipitous raou lake. The trai the water dashc During a great< storm, and the surf, five or six ing the snow si miles, we encai grass, which wj We did not g tlie rocks until ceed in killing fish were seen, cement previou shrubs along tfa ephedra occideni the shrubby gro heavily, and the The next mc Part of the mor only nine miles, in the lake, whi cording to our e viewed it, presei The accompany] along the shore, striking feature lake ; and thoug undertake to S93 resemblance bet between them a The elevation feet higher than distant about eig * The label attache* from memory, I judge Carbonate of lime Carbonate of magnesi Oxide of iron Alumina Silica Organic matter, watei 217 [ "4] also covered with this substance, which was in too great quantity on the mountains along the shore of the lake to have been deposited by water, and has the appearance of having been spread over the rocks in mass.* Where we had halted, appeared to be a favorite camping place fpr In- dians. January 13. — We followed again a broad Indian trail along the shore of the lake to the southward. For a short space we had room enough in the bottom ; but, after travelling a short distance, the water'swept the foot of precipitous mountains, the peaks of which are about 3,000 feet above the lake. The trail wound along the base of these precipices, against which the water dashed below, by a way nearly impracticable for the howitzer. During a greater part of the morning the lake was nearly hid by a snow storm, and the waves broke on the narrow beach in a long line of foaming surf, five or six feet high. The day was unpleasantly cola, the wind driv- ing the snow sharp against our faces ; and, having advanced only about 12 miles, we encamped in a bottom formed by a ravine, covered with good grass, which was fresh and green. * We did not get the howitzer into camp, but were obliged to leave it on the rocks until morning. We saw several flocks of sheep, but did not suc- ceed in killing any. Ducks were riding on the waves, and several large fish were seen. The mountain sides were crusted with the calcareous cement previously mentioned. There were chenopodiaceous and other shrubs along the beach ; and, at the foot of the rocks, an abundance of ephedra occidentaliSy whose dark-gre£n color makes them evergreens among the shrubby growth of the lake, "^^vards evening the snow began to fall heavily, and the country had a wintry appearance. The next morning the snow was rapidly melting under a warm sun. Fart of the morning was occupied in bringing up the gun ; and, making only nine miles, we encamped on the shore, opposite a very remarkable rock in the lake, which had attracted our attention for many miles. It rose, ac- cording to our estimate, 600 feet above the water ; and, from the point we viewed it, presented a pretty exact outline of the great pyramid of Cheops. The accompanying drawing presents it as we saw it. Like othei;rocks along the shore, it seemed to be incrusted with calcareous cement. This striking feature suggested a name for the lake ; and I called it Pyramid lake ; and though it may be deemed by some a fanciful resemblance, I can undertake to say that the future traveller will find a much more striking resemblance between this rock and the pyramids of Egypt, than there is between them and the object from which they take their name. The elevation of this lake above the sea is 4,890 feet, being nearly 700 feet higher than the Great Salt lake, from which it lies nearly west, and distant about eight degrees of longitude. The position and elevation of this * The label attached to a specimen of this rock was lost ; but I append an analysis of that which, from memory, I judge to be the specimen Carbonate of lime .-.-.--. 77.31 Carbonate of magnesia - -'- - - - ' ■■ 5.S5 Oxide of iron - - -' - - - - - - 1-60 Alumina - . . . .- • - - 1.06 Silica - . .. . - . . .- 8.66 Organic matter, water, and loss - -- - - - - 6.24 ' I •! f: » ' 100.00 C "4 ]. 218 lake make it an object of geographical interest. It is the nearest lake to the western rim, as the Great Salt lake is to the eastern rim, of the Great Basin which lies between the base of the Rocky mountains and the Sierra Nevada ; and the extent and character of which, its whole circumference and contents, it is so desirable to know. The last of the cattle which had been driven from (he Dalles was killed here for food, and was still in good condition. January \ 5. — A few poor-looking Indians made their appearance this morning, and we succeeded in getting one into the camp. He was naked with the exception of a tunic of hare skins. He told us that there was a river at the end of the lake, but that he lived in the rocks near by. From the lew words our people could understand, he spoke a dialect of the Snake language ; but we were not able to understand enough to know whether the river ran in or out, or what was its course ; consequently, there still I remained a chance that this might be Mary's lake. | Groves of large cottonwood, which we could see at the mouth of the river, indicated t()at it was a stream of considerable size ; and, at all events, we had the pleasure to know that now we were in a country where hutnao beings could live. Accompanies) by the Indian, we resuq^ed our road, pass- ing on the way several caves in the rock wlicre there were baskets and seeds ; but the people had disappeared. We saw also horse tracks along the shore. Early in the afternoon, when we W£re approaching tfae groves at the mouth of the river, three or four Indians met us on the trail. We badan explanatory conversation in signs, and||^R moved on together towards the village, which the chief said was enc^^>ed on the bottom. Reaching the groves, we found the inlet of a large fresh-water stream, and all at once were satisfied that it was neither Mary's river nor the waters of the Sacramento, but that we had discovered a large interior lake, which the Indians informed us had no outlet. It is about 35 miles long; and, by the mark of the water line along the shores, the spring level is about 1 2 feet above its present waters. The chief commenced speaking in a loud voice as we approached ; and parties of Indians armed with bows and ar* rows issued from the thickets. We selected a strong place for our encamp* ment — a grassy bottom, nearly enclosed by the river, and furnished with abundant fire wood. The village, a collection of straw huts, was a few hundred yards higher up. An Indian brought in a large fish to trade, which we had the inexpressible satisfaction to find was a salmon trout ; we gathered rotind him eagerly. The Indians were amused with our delight, and immediately brought in numbers ; so that the camp was soon stocked. Their flavor was excellent — superior, in fact, to that of any fish I have ever known. They were of extraordinary size — about as large as the Columbia river salmon — generally from two to four feet in length. From the infor- mation of Mr. Walker, who passed among some lakes lying more to the eastward, this fish is common to the streams of the inland lakes. He sub- sequently informed me that he had obtained them weighing six pourids when cleaned and the head taken off ; which corresponds very well with tUe size of those obtained at this place. They doubtless formed the subsist- eace of these people, who hold the fishery in exclusive possession. I remarked that one of^them gave a fish to the Indian we had first seen, whifi^ he carried off to his family. To them it was probably a feast ; being of the Digger tribe, and having no share in the fishery, living generally on 219 [174] seeds and roots. Although this was a time of the year when the fish have not yet become fat, they were excellent, and we could only imagine what tbcyare at the proper season. These Indians were very fat, and appeared to live an easy and happy life. They crowded into the camp more than was consistent with our safety, retaining always their arms; and, as they made some unsatisfactory demonstrations, they were given to understand that they would not be permitted to come armed into the camp ; and strong guards were kept with the horses. Strict vigilance was maintained among the people, and one-third at a time were kept on guard during the night. There is no reason to doubt that these dispositions, uniformly preserved, conducted our party securely through Indians famed for treachery. In the mean time, such a salmon-trout feast as is seldom seen was going on in our camp ; and every variety of manner in which fish could be pre- pared—boiled, fried, and roasted in the ashes — was put into requisition ; and every few minutes an Indian would be seen running off to spear a fresh one. Whether these Indians had seen whites before, we could not be certain ; but they were evidently in comruunication with others who had, as one of them had some brass buttons, and we noticed several other articles of civilized manufacture. We could obtain from them but little information respecting the country. They made on the ground a drawing of the river, which they represented as issuing from another lake in the mountains three or four days distant, in a direction a little west of south ; beyond which, they drew a mountain ; and further still', two rivers ; on one of which they told us that people like ourselves travelled. Whether they alluded to the settlements on the Sacramento, or to a party from the Unit- ed States which had crossed the Sferra about three degrees to the south- ward, a few years since, I am unable ts determine. I tried unsuccessfully to prevail on some of them to guide us for a few days on the road, but they only looked at each other and laughed. The latitude of our encampment, which may be considered the mouth of the inlet, is 39° 51' 13" by our observations. ^ January 16. — This morning we continued our journey along this beau- tiful stream, which we naturally called the Salmon Trout river. Large trails led up on either side ; the streaqi was handsomely timbered with large cottonwoods ; and the waters were very clear and pure. We were travelling along the mountains of the great Sierra, which rose on our right, covered with snow ; but below the temperature was mild and pleasant. We saw a number of dams which the Indians had constructed to catch fish. After haying made about 18 miles, we encamped under some large cottonwoods OQ the river bottom, where there was tolerably good grass. January 17. — This morning we left the river, which here issues from the mountains on the west. With every stream I now expected to see the great Buenaventura ; and Carson hurried eagerly to search, on every one we reached, for beaver cuttings, which he always maintained we should find only on waters that ran to the Pacific ; and the absence of such signs was to him a sure indication that the water had no outlet from the great basin. We followed the Indian trail through a tolerably level country, with small sage bushes, which brought us, after 20 miles journey, to another large stream, timbered with cottonwood, and flowing also out of the mountains, but running more directly to the eastward. On the way we surprised a family of Indians in the hills ; but the roan ran up the mountain with rapidity ; and the woman was so terrified. weA (HI I'. i ' I f.' -^v {• p < C 174] 220 kept ijp such a continued screaming, that we could do nothing with her and were obliged to let her go. January 18. — There were Indian lodges and fish dams on the stream. There were no boaver cuttings on the river ; but below, it turned round to the right ; and, hoping that it wou' 5 orove a branch of the Buenaventura, 've followed it down for about three hours, and encamped. I rode out with Mr. Fitzpatrick rir^i Carson to reconnoitre the country, which had evidently been a!»imed by the news of our appearance. This stream joined with the open valley of another to the eastward ; but which way the main water ran, it was impossible to tell. Columns of smoke rose over the country at scattered intervals — signals by which the Indians here, as elsewhere, communicate to each other that enemies are in the country. It is a signal of ancient and very universal application among barbarians. Examining into the condition of the animals when I returned into the camp, I found their feet so much cut up by the rocks, and so many of them lame, that it was evidently impossible that they could cross the coun- try to the Rocky mountains. Every piece of iron that could be used for the purpose had been converted into nails, and we could make no further use of the shoes we had remaining. 1 therefore determined to abandon my eastern course, and to cross the Sierra Nevada into the valley of the Sacra- mento, wherever a practicable pass could be found , My decision was heard with joy by the people, and diffused new life throughout the camp. Latitude, by observation, 39° 24' 16". January 19. — A great number of smokes are still visible this morning, attesting at once the alarm which our appearance had spread among these people, and their ignorance of us. If they knew the whites, they would understand that their only object in coming among them was to trade, which required peace and friendship ; but they have nothing to trade — conse- quently, nothing to attract the white man ; hence their fear and flight. At daybreak we had a heavy snow ; but sat out, and, returning up the stream, went out of our way in a circuit over a little mountain ; and en- camped on the same stream, a few miles above, in latitude 39° 19' 21" by observation. Janttary 20. — To-day we continued up the stream, and encamped on it close to the mountains. The freshly fallen snow was covered with the tracks of Indians, who had descended from the upper waters, probably called down by the smokes in the plain. We ascended a peak of the range, which commanded a view of this stream behind the first ridge, where it was winding its course through a somewhat open valley, and I sometimes reg.''et that I did not make the trial te cross here ; but while we had fair weather below, the mountains were darkened with falling snow, and, feeling unwilling to encounter them, we turned away again to the southward. In that direction we travelled the next day over a tolerably level country, having always the high mountains on the west. There was but little snow or roek on the ground ; and, after having travelled 24. miles, we encamped again on another large stream, running off to the northward and eastward, to meet that we had left. It ran througn broad bottoms, having a fine meadow-land appearance. Latitude 39° 01' 53 '. January 22. — We travelled up the stream for about 14 miles to the foot of the mountains, from which one branch issued in the southwest, the other flowing from SSE. along their base. Leaving the camp below, 221 [ 174] ain ; and en- am, running we ascended the range through which the first strean) passed, in a tailon ; on the western side was a circular valley, about 15 miles long, through which the stream wound its way, issuing from a gorge in (he main moun- tain, which rose abruptly beyond. The valley looked yellow with faded erass ; and the trail we had followed w rs visible, making towards the gorge, and this was evidently a pass ; but again, while all was bright sunshine on the ridge and on the valley where we were, the snow was falling heavily in the mountains. I determined to go still to the southward, and encamp- ed on the stream near the forks ; the animals being fatigued and the grass tolerably good. The rock of the ridge we hud ascended is a compact lava, assuming a granitic appearance and structure, and .''ontaining, in some places, small nodules of obsidian. So far as composition and aspect are concerned, the rock in other parts of the ridge appears to be granite ; but it is probable that this is only a compact form of lava of recent origin. By observation, the elevation of the encampment was 5,020 feet ; and the latitude 38° 49' 54". January 23. — We moved along the course of the other branch towards the southeast, the country affording a fine road ; and, passing some slight dividing grounds, descended towards the valley of another stream. 'I'here was a somewhat rough-looking mountain ahead, which it appeared to issue from, or to enter — we could not tell which ; and as the course of the valley and the inclination of the ground bad a favorable direction, we were sanguine to find here a branch of thj Buenaventura ; but were again dis- appointed, finding it an inland w.tter, on which we encamped after a day's journey of 24 miles. It was evident that, from the time we descended into the plain at Summer lake, we had been flanking the great range of moun- tains which divided the Great Basin from the waters of the Pacific ; and that the continued succession, and almost connexion, of lakes and rivers which we encountered, were the drainings of that range. Its rains, springs, and snows, would sufficiently account for these lakes and streams, numer- ous as they were. January 24. — A man was discovered running towards the camp as we were about to start this morning, who proved to be an Indian of rather ad- vanced age — a sort of forlorn hope, who seemed to have been worked up . into the resolution of visiting the strangers who were passing through the country. He seized the hand of the first man he met as he came up, out of breath, and held on, as if to assure himself of protection. He brought with him in a little skin bag a few pounds of the seeds of a pine tree, which to-day we saw for the first time, and which Dr. Torrey has described as a new species, under the name oi pinus monophyllus ; in popular language, it might be called the nut pine. We purchased them all from him. The nut is oily, of very agreeable flavor, and must be very nutritious, as it constitutes the principal subsistence of the tribes among which we were now travelling. By a present of scarlet cloth, and other striking articles, we prevailed upon this man to be our guide of two days' journey. As clearly as possible by signs, we made him understand our object ; and h^engaged to conduct us in sight of a good pass which he knew. Here we' eased to hear the Shoshonee language ; that of this man being perfectly unintelli- gible. Several Indians, who had been waiting to see what reception he would meet with, now came into camp; and, accompanied by the new comers, we resumed our journey. 1"-^: D-*:|;- h'J' '■v':':,i n [ 174] S«2 The road led lis op (lie creek, which here hedrimdlP » rather rapid tnoiin- tain stream, f\Hy feet wide, between daiK looking hills without snow; but immediately beyond them rose snowy mountains on either side, timbered principally with the nut pine. On the lower prounds, the general height of this tree is twelve to twenty feet, and eight inches the greatest diamoter it is rather branching, .\nd has u peculiar and singular but pleasant odor. We followed the river for only a short distance along u rocky fiul, and crossed it at a dam which the Indians made us compieliend had been built to catch salmon trout, 'i'he snow and ice were heaped up against it three or four feet deep entirely across the stream. fjeaving here the stieant, which runs through impassable cartons, uo con- tinued our road over a very broken country, passing through a low gap be- tween the snowy mountains. The rock which occurs immediately in the pass has the .ippearance of impure sandstone, containing scales of bUck mica. This may be only a stratified lava ; on issuing from the g;ip, the compact lava, and other volcanic products usual in the country, again oc- curred. We descendcti from the gap into a wide valley, or rather basin, and encamped on a small tributary to the last stream, on which there was very good grass. It was coveted with such thick ice, that it required some labor with pickaxes to make holes for the animals to drink. The banks m lightly wooded with willow, and on the upper bottoms are sage and Pre- montiu with ephedra occidentalis, which begins to occur more frequently. The day has been a summer one, warm and pleasant ; no snow on the trail, which, as we are all on foot, makes travelling more agreeable. The hunt- ers went into the neighboring mountains, but found no game. We have five Indians in camp tonight. January 25. — The morning was cold aid bright, and as the sun rose the day became beautiful. A party of twelve Indians came down from the mountains to trade pine nuts, of which each one carried a little bag. These seemed now to be the staple of the country ; and whenever we met an In- dian, his friendly salutation consisted in otfering a few nuts to eat and to trade ; their only arms were bows and flint-pointed arrows. It appeared that, in almost all the valleys, the neighboring bands were at war with each other ; and we had some difficulty in prevailing on our guides to accompany us on this day's journey, being at war with the people on the other side of a large snowy mountain which lay before us. The general level of the country appeared to be getting higher, and we were gradually entering the heart of the mountains. Accompanied by all the Indians, we ascended a long ridge, and reached a pure spring at the edge of the timber, where the Indians had waylaid and killed an antelope, and where the greater part of them left us. Our pacific conduct had quieted Aeir alarms ; and though at war among each other, yet all confided in us. Thanks to the combined effects of power and kindness — for our arms in- spired respect, and our little presents and good treatment conciliated their confidence. Here we suddenly entered snow six inches deep, and the ground was a little rocky with volcanic fragments, the mountain appearing to be composed of such rock. The timber consists principally of nut pines, (pinus monophylluSf) which here are of larger size — 12 to 15 inches in diameter ; heaps of cones lying on the ground, where the Indians have gathered the seeds. ' The snow deepened gradually as we advanced. Our guides wore out their moccasins; and, putting one of them on a hor-se, we enjoyed the uiitisaal ! t!:. 223 [ 1T4] jjehtof an Indian whc could not ride. He could not even guide the ani- mal and appeared to have no knowledge of horses. The snow was three or four feet deep in the summit of the pass; and from this point the guide pointed out our I'uture road, declining to go any further. Below us was a little valley ; and beyond this, the monntuins rose higher still, one ridge above another, presenting a rude and rocky outline. We descended rap> idly to the valley ; the snow impeded us but little ; yet it was dark when we reached the foot of the mountain. The day had been so warm, that our moccasins were wet with melting snow; but here, as soon as the sun begins to decline, the air gets suddenly cold, and we had great difficulty to keep our feet from freezing — our moc* casins being frozen perfectly stifl. Alter a hard day's march of 27 miles, we reached the river some time after dark, and found the snow about a foot deep on the bottom — the river being entirely frozen over. VVc found a comfortable camp, where there were dry willows abundant, and we soon had blazing fires. A little brandy, which I husbanded with great care, remained, and I do not know any medicine more salutary, or any drink (except coffee) more agreeable, than this in a cold night after a hard day's march. Mr. Preuss questioned whether the famed nectar even possessed so exquisite a flavor. All felt it to be a reviving cordial. The next morning, when the sun had not yet risen over the mountains, the thermometer was 2" below zero ; but the sky was bright and pure, and the weather changed rapidly into a pleasant day of summer. I remained encamped, in order to examine the country, and allow the animals a day of rest, the grass being good and abundant under the snow. The river is fifty to eighty feet wide, with a lively current, and very clear water. It forked a little above our camp, one of its branches com- ing directly from the south. At its head appeared to be n handsome pass; and from the neighboring heights we could see, beyond, a compara- tively low and open country, which was supposed to form the valley of the Buenaventura. The other branch issued from a nearer pass, in a direction S. 75° W., forking at the foot of the mountain, and receiving part of its waters from a little lake. I was in advance of the camp when our last guides had left us; but, so far as could be understood, this was the pass which they had indicated, and, in company with Carson, to-day I set out to explore it. Entering the range, we continued in a northwesterly direc- tion up the valley, which here bent to the right. It was a pretty, open bot- tom, locked between lofty mountains, which supplied frequent streams as we advanced. On the lower part they were covered with nut-pine trees, and above with masses of pine, which we easily recognised, from the darker color of the foliage. From the fresh trails which occurred frequently during the morning, deer appeared to be remarkably numerous in the mountain. We had now entirely left the desert country, and were on the verge of a region which, extending westward to the shores of the Pacific, abounds in large game, and is covered with a singular luxuriance of vegetable life. The little stream grew rapidly smaller, and in about twelve miles we had reached its head, the last water coming immediately out of the moun- tain on the right ; and this spot was selected for our next encalmpment. Tl)e grass showed well in sunny places ; but in colder situations the snow was deep, and began to occur in banks, through which the horses found some difficulty in breaking a way. To the left, the open valley contiaued iti a southwesterly direction, with -I! /^'^ i '■ I 1^4 ] 324 a scarcely peiceptible ascent, forming a beautiful pass ; the exploration of which we deferred until the next day, anc^ returned to the camp. Tj-day an Indian passed through the valley, on hi^ way into the moun- tains, where he showed us was his lodge. We comprehended nothing of his language ; and, though he appeared to have no fear, passing along in full view of the camp, he was indieposed to hold any communication with us, but showed the way he was going, and pointed for us to go on our road. By observation, the latitude of this encampment was 38° 18' 01' , and the elevation above the sea 6,310 feet. January 27. — Leaving the camp to follow slowly, with directions to Carson to encamp at the place agreed on, Mr. Fitzpatrick and myself con- tinued the reconnoissance. Arriving at the head of the stream, we be^an to enter the pass — passing occasionally through open groves of large pine tr^es, on the warm side of the defile, where the snow had melted away, occasionally exposing a large Indian trail. Continuing along a narrow meadow, we reached in a few miles the gate of the pass, where there was a narrow strip of prairie, about fifty yards wide, between walls of graiiite rock. On either side rose the mountains, forming on the left a rugged mass, or nucleus, wholly covered with deep snow, presenting a glittering and icy surface. At the time, we supjjosed this to be the point into which they weie gathered between the two great rivers, and from which the waters flowed off to the bay. This v/as the icy and cold side of the pass, and the rays of the sun hardly touched the snow. On the left, the moun- tains rose into peaks; but they were lower and secondary, and the country bad a somewhat more open and lighter character. On the right wer'^ sev- eral hot springs, which appeared remarkable in such a place. In going through, we felt impressed by the majesty of the mountain, along the huge wall of which we were riding. Here there was no snow ; but immedi- ately beyond was a deep bank, through which we dragged our horses with considerable effort. We then immediately struck upon a stream, which gathered itself rapidly, and descended quick; and the valley did not pre- serve the open character of the other side, appearing below to form a canon. We therefore climbed one of the peaks on the right, leaving our horses below ; but we were so much shut up, that we dfd not obtain an extensive view, and what we saw was not very satisfactory, and awakened considerable doubt. The valley of the stream pursued a northwesterly direction, appearing below to tuni sharpiy to the right, beyond which fur- ther view was cut off. It was, nevertheless, resolved to continue our road the next day down this valley, which we trusted still would prove that of the middle stream between the two great rivers. Towards the summit of this peak, the fields of snow were four or five feet deep on ihe northern side ; and we saw several large hares, which had on their winter color, being white as the snow around the.r». ^ The winter day is short in the mountains, the sun having but a small space of sky to travel over in the visible part above our horizon ; and the moment his rays are gone, the air is keenly cold. The interest of our work had detained us long, and it was after nightfall when we reached the camp. January 28. — To-day we went through the pass with all the camn,and, after a hard day's journey of twelve miles, encamped on a high point where the snow had been blown off, and the exposed grass ..fforded a scanty pas- ture for the animals. Snov^' and broken country together made our travel- 229 C "4] liog difQcult : we were often compelled to make large circuits, and ascend the highest and mo»t exposed ridges, in order to avoid snow, which in other places was banked up to a great depth. During the day a few Indians were seen circling around us on '•now shoes, and skimming along like b.rds ; but we could not bring th°m with- in speaking distance. Godey, w'm> was a little distance from the camp, had sat down to tie his moccasins, wh n he heard a low whistle near, and, look- ing up, saw two Indians half hidfr.g behind a rock about forty yards distant ; they would not allow him to approach, but, breaking into a laugh, skimmed off over the snow, seeming to have no idea of the power of fire aiiuSj and thinking themselves perfectly safe when beyond arm's length. To-night we did not succeed in getting the howitzer into camp. This was the most laborious day we had yet passed through ; the steep ascents and deep snow exhausting both men and animals. Our single chtonometer had stopped during the day, and its error in time occasioned the loss of an eclipse of a satellite this evening. It had not preserved the rate with which wc started from the Dalles, and this will account for thi5 ab^icnce of longitudes along this interval of our journey. January 29. — From tl;**' <»"ght we could see, at a considerable distanc^ below, yellow spots in the valley, which indicated that there was not mucii snow. One of these places we expected to reach to-night ; and some time being required to bring up the gun, I wei.t ahead with Mr Fitzputrick and a fewnnen, leaving the camp to follow, in charge of Mr. Prcuss. We fol- lowed a trail down a hollow where the Indians had descended, (he snow beingsodeep hat we never came n^r the ground ; but this only made out* descent the easier, and, when we reached a little affluent to the rif er at the bottom, we suddenly found ourselves in presence of eight or ten Indians. They seemed to be watching our motions, and, like the others, at lirst were indispcsed to let us approach, ranging themselves like biul* on a fallen log on the hill side above our heads, where, being out of leach, ihey thought themselves safe. Our friendly demeanor recoiuiled ih<^m, and, when we 'ot near enough, they immediately stretched out lo us iiandfuHs of pine nuts, which seemed an exercise of hospitality. We made them. a few presents, and, telling us that their village was a few miles below, they went on to let their people know what we were. The principal strean^ still running through an impracticable caHon, we ascended a very bteep hill, which proved afterwards the hist and fatal obstacle to our little Ijowitzer,. which was finally abandoned at this place. We jiassed ihiough a small meadow a few miles below, crossing the river, which depth, swift current, and rock, made it difficult to ford ; and, after a few more miles of very dif- ficult trail, issued into a larger prairie bottom, at the farther end of which we encamped, in a position rendered strong by rocks and trees. The lower parts of the mountain were covered with the nut pine. Several Indiar.s- appeared on the hill side, reconnoitring the camp, and were induced to come in; others came in during the afternoon ; and in the evening we held a council. The Indians immediately made it clear that the waters on'whicU we were also belong to -he Great Basin, in the edge of which we had been since the 17lh of December; and it became evident that we had still the^treat lidge on the left to cross before we could reach the Pacific waters. We explained to the Indians that we were endeavoring lo find a pass.ige across the mountains into the country of the whites, whon> we were going to sec ; and told th( m that we wiiShed them to bring us a guide, to whom we 15 '■i' I : >, 4i C 174 ] 226 would give presentsof scarlet cloth, and other articles, which were shown to them. They looked at the reward we offered, and conferred with e»ch other, but pointed to the snow on the mountain, and drew their hands across their necks, and raised them above t'ieir heads, to show the depih- and signified that it was impossible for us to get through. I'hey made signs that we must go to the southward, over a pasis through a lower ranee which they pointed out ; there, they said, at the end ol one day's travel, we would find people who lived near a pass in the great mountain ; and to that point they engaged to furnish us a guide. They appeared to have a con- fused idea, from report, of whites who lived on the othf • side of the moun- taiii ; and once, they told us, about two years ago, a party of twelve men like ourselves had ascended their river, and crossed to the other waters, They pointed out to us where they had crossed ; but then, they said, it was summer time ; but now it would be impossible. I believe that this was a party led by Mr. Chiles, one of the only two n;en whom J know to have passed through the California mountains from the interior of the Ba- sin — Walker being the other ; and both were engaged upwards of twentj days, ir) the summer time, in getting over. C^hiles'sdesiinationwasthebay of San Francisco, to which he descended bytheStanislausriver ; and Walk- (B^r subsequently info med me that, like myself, descending to the southward ou a more eastern line, d;\y after day he was searching for the Buenaven- tura, thinking that he had found it with every new stream, until, like me, lie abandoned ail idea of its existence, and, turning abruptly (o the right, crossed the great cliain. These were both western men, animated with the spirit of exploratory enterprise which characterizes that people. The Indians brought in during (he evening an abundant supply of pine nuts, which we traded from them. When roasted, their pleasant flavor made tbcin :ui agreeable addition to our now scanty store of provisions, which were reduced to a very low ebb. Our principal stock was in peas, which if is not necessary to soy contain scarcely any nutriment. We had still a little llour left, some coffee, and a quantity of sugar, which 1 re- served as a defence against starvation. The Indians informed us that at certain seasons they have fish in their watejs, which we supposed to be salmon trout ; for the remainder of the year (hey live upon the pine nuts, which form their great winter subsist- ence — a portion being always at hand, shut up in the natural storehouse of the cones. At present, they were presented to us as a whole people living upon this simple vegetable. The other division of the party did not come in to-night, hut encamped in the upper meadow, and arrived the next morning. They had not suc- ceeded in getting the howitzer beyond the place mentioned, and where it had been left by Mr. Preuss in obedience to my orders ; and, in anticipation of (he snow banks and snow fields still ahead, foreseeing the inevitable de- tention to which it would subject us, I reluctantly determined to leave it there for the time. It was of the kind invented by the French for the VRountain part of their war in Algiers ; and the distance it had come with ^as proved how well it was adapted to its purpose. We left it, to the greit uor'-ow of the whole party, who were grieved to part with a conipiinion which had made (he whole distance from St. Louis, and commanded re- spect for us on some critical occasions, and which might be needed for the same purpose again. January 30. — Our guide, who was a young man, joined us (his morn- 227 id us I his morn- C »74] ios; and, leavingour encampment late in the day, we descended therivef, which ignraediatety opened out into a broad valley, furnishing good travet- ]jne ground. In a short distance vvc passed the viHage, a collection oC straw huts; and a few miles below, the guide pointed out the place where the whites had been encamped before they entered the mountain. With our late start we made but ten miles, and encamped on the low river bot- iom where there was no .snow, but a great deal of ice ; and we cut piles of long grass to lay under our blankets, and fires were made of large dry wil- lows, groves of which wooded thft stream. The river took here a north- easterly direction, and through a spur irom the mountains on the left was the gap where we were to pass the next day. January 31. — ^We took our way over a gently rising ground, the dividii^ ridge being tolerably low ; and travelling easily along a broad trail', io twelve or fourteen miles reached the upper part of the pass, when it began 40 snow thickly, with very cold wea'her. The Indians had only Ae usual scanty covering, and appeared to suffer greatly from the cold. Alt left ua, except our guide. Half hidden by the storm, the mountains toc^cid dieary ; and, as night begin to approach, the guide showed great reluctance to go forward. I placed him between two rifles, for the way began to be difficult, Travelling a little farther, we struck a ravine, which the Indian said would conduct us to the river ; and as the poor fellow suffered greatly, shivering in the snow which fell upon his naked skin, I would not detaia him any longer ; and he ran off to the mountain, where he said there wwi- a hut near by. He bad kept the blue and scarlet cloth 1 had given him tighly rolled up, preferring rather to endure the cold than to get them wetf. Intbr course of the afternoon, one of the men bad Ins foot frostbitten; and aoout dark we had the satisfaction to reach the bottoms of a stream timbered with large trees, among whieh we found a sheltered cam •, with an abundance of such grass as the season afforded for the animals. ^ 7e sawi before us, in descending from the pass, a great continuous range, along whieb stretched the valley of the river ; the lower parts steep, and dark with pines^^ while above it was hidden in clouds of snow. This we felt instantly satis* fied was the central ridge of the Sierra Nevada, the great California moan^ tain, which only now intervened between us and the waters of the bay. We had made a forced march of 26 miles, and three mules had given out on. the road. Up to this point, with the exception of two stolen by IndianSy we had lost none of the horses which bad been brought from the Columbia river, and a number of these were still strong and in tolerably good order. We had now 67 animals in the band. We had scarcely lighted our fires, when thfe cawp was crowded with nearly naked Indians; some of them were furnished with long nets in ad- dition to bows, and appeased to have been out on the sage hills to hunt rabbits. These nets were perhaps 30 to 40 feet long, kept upright in the ground by slight sticks at intervals, and were made from a kind of wild hemp, very much resembling in manufacture those common among the Indians of the Sacramento valley. They came among us w'lhout any fea>,and scattered themselves about the fires, mairily occupied in gratifying their astonishment. I was struck by the singular appearance of a row of about a dozen, who were sitting on their haunches perched oa a log near one of the fires, with their quick sharp eyes following every motion. We gathered together a few of the most intelligent of the Indians, andt held this evening an interesting council. I explained to thetn my inton- v\ h \ i I 1 ■ . £ 174 ] 228 lions. I told them that we had come from a very far country, having been travelling now nearly a year, and that we were desirous simply to go across the mountain into the country of the other whites. There were two who appeared particularly intelligent — one, a somewhat old man. He told me that, before the snows fell, it was six sleeps to the place where the whites lived, but that now it was impossible to cross the mountain on account of the deep snow ; and showing us, as the others had done, that it was over our heads, he urged us strongly to follow the course of the river, which he said \Could conduct us to a lake in which there were many large fish. There, he said, were many people ; there was no snow on the ground; and we might remain there until the spring. FVom their descriptions, we were enabled to judge that we had encamped on the upper water of the Salmon Trout river. It is hardly necessary to say that our communication was only by signs, as we understood nothing of their language ; b U they ^poke, notwithstanding, rapidly and vehemently, explaining what they con- sidered the folly of our intentions, and urging us to go down to the lake. Tah-ve, a word signifying snow, we very soon learned to know, ,'rom its frequent repetition. I told him that the men anil the horses were strong, and that we would break a road through the snow; and spreading be- fore him our bales of scarlet cloth, and trinkets, showed him what we would give for a guide. It was necessary t i obtain one, if possible ; for ( liad determined here to attempt the passage of the; mountain. Pulling a bunch of grass from the ground, after a short discussion among themselves, the old roan made us comprehend, thnt if we could breakthrough the snow, at the end of three days we would come down upon grass, which he showed us would M about six inches high, and where the ground wa en- tirely free. So far, he said, he had been in hunting for elk ; but beyond that, (and he closed his eyes) he had seen nothing; but there was one among them who had been to the whites, and, going out of the lodge, h^ returned with a young man of very intelligent appearance. Here, said he, is a jroung man who has seen the whites with his own eyes ; and he swore, -first by the sky, and then by the ground, that what he said was true. VV'iih ^ large present of goods, we prevailed upon this young man to be our guide, and he acquired among us the name M6I0 — a word signifying friend, which they u.sed very frequently. lie was thinly clad, and nearly barefoot; his moccasins being about worn out. We gave him skins to make a new pair, and to enable him to perform his undertaking to w*. The Indiansre- jnaineu in the camp during the night, and we kept the guide and two others to sleep in the lodge with us — Carson lying across the door, and having made them comprehend the use of our fire arms. The snow, which had intermitted in the evening, commenced falling again in the course of the night, and it snowed steadily all day. In the morning I acquainted the men with my decision, and explained to them that necessity required usto make a great effoit to clear the mountains. I reminded them of the beau- tiful valley of the Sacramento, with which they were familiar from the de- scriptions of Carson, who had been there some fifteen years ago, and who, in our late privations, had delighted us in speaking of its rich pastures and abounding game, and drew a vivid contrast between its summer clinnate, less than a hundred miles distant, and the falling sno^/ around us. I >"' formed them (and long experience had given them confidence in m/ ob- servations and good instruments) that almost directly west, and only < mediately above us. Crossing the river on the ice, and leaving it imme- diately, we commenced the ascent of the mountain along the valley of m. tributary stream. The people were unusually silent ; for every man knew that our enterprise was hazardous, and the issue doubtful. The snow deepened rapidly, and it soon became necessary to break a road. For this service, a party of ten was formed, mounted on the strongest hoises; each man in Accession opening the road on foot, or on horseback, until himself and his horse became fatigued, when he stepped aside ; and, the remaining number passing ahead, he took his station in the rear. Leav- ing this stream, and pursuing a very direct course, we passed over an inter- vening ridge to the river we had left. On the way we passed two low huts entirely covered with snow, which might very easily have escaped observation. A family was living in each ; and the only trail I saw in the neighborhood was from the door hole to a nut-pine tree near, which sup- plied them with food and fuel. We found two similar huts on the creek where we next arrived ; and, travelling a little higher up, encamped on its banks in about four feet depth of snow. Carson found near, an open hill side, where the wind and the sun had melted the snow, leaving exposed sufficient bunch grass for the animals to-night. ^ii I'i - ii » ' Mm h. I ^"^^ ] 230 ni V ■» The nut pin«s were now giving way to heavy timbf", and there were sone immense pines on the bottom, around the' roots oi which the sun had aielted au ay the snow ; and here we made our camps and built huge fires. To-day we had travelled sixteen miles, and our elevation above (he sea was 6,760 feet. Febrvary 3. — Turning our faces directly towards the main chain, we as- cended an open hollow along a bmall tributary to the river, which, accord- ifig.lo the Indians, issues from a mountain to the south. The snow was so deep in the hollow, that we wert obliged to travel along the steep hill ^des, and over spurs, where wind and sun had in places lessened the saow, and where the grass, which appeared to be in good quality along the sides of the mountain^, was exposed. We opened our road in the same way as yesterday, but made only seven miles ; and encamped by some ^rings at the foot of a high and steep hill, by which the hollow ascended to another basin in the mountain. The little stream below was entirely buried in snow. The springs were shaded by the boughs of a lofty cedar, which here made its first appearance; the usual height was 12Uto 130 feet, and one that was measured near by was 6 feet in diameter. There being no grass exposed' here, the horses were sent back to that which we had seen a few miles below. We occupied the remainder of the day in beating down a road to the foot of the hill, a mile or two distant; the snow being beaten down when moist, in the warm part of the day, and then hard frozen at night, made a foundation that would bear the weight of the animals the next morning. During the day several Indians joined MS on snow shoes. Xhese were made of a circular hoop, about a foot in diameter, the interior space being filled with an open network of bark. February 4. — I went aJiead early with two or three men, each with a led horse, to break the road. We were obliged to abandon the hollow en- tirely, and work along the mountain side, which was yery steeps and the snow covered with an icy crust. We cut a footing as we advanced, and trampled a road through for the animals ; but occasionally one plunged out- side the trail, and slided along the field to the bottom, a hundred yards be- low. Late in the day we reached another bench in the hoilow, where, in summer, the stream passed over a small precipice. Here was a short dis- tance of dividing ground between the two ridges, and bey<>nd an open ba- sin, some ten miles across, whose bottom presented a field of srraw. At the further or western side rose the middle crest of the mountain, a dark- lookiog ridge of volcanic rock. The summit line presented a range of naked peaks, apparently destitute of snow and vegetation; but below, the face of the whole country was covered with timber of extraordinary size. Annexed you are presented with a view of this ridge from a camp on the western side of the basin. Towards a pass which the guide indicated here, we attempted in the af- ternoon to force a road ; but after a laborious plunging through two or three hundred yards, our best horses gave out, entirely refusing to make any further effort ; and, for the time, we were brought to a stand. The guide informed us that we were entering the deep snow, and here began the difficulties of the mountain ; and to him, and almost to all, our enter- prise seemed hopeless. I returned a short distance back, to the break in the hollow, where 1 met Mr. Fitzpatrick. The camp had been all the day occupied in endeavoring to ascend the hill, but only the best horses had succeeded. The animals, generally, not 231 C 174 3 biving sufficient strength to bring themselv^es up without the packs; and all the line of road between this and the springs was strewed with camp stores and equipage, and horses floundering in snow. I therefore imme* dialely encamped on the ground with ray own mess, which was in ad> vance, and directed Mr. Fitzpatrick to encamp at the springs, and send all the animals, in charge of Tabeau, with a strong guard, back to the place where they had been pastured the night before. ^lere was a small spoit of level ground, protected on one side by the mountain, and on the other sheltered by a little ridge of rock. It was an open grove of pines, which assimilated in size to the grandeur of the mountain, being frequently six feet in diameter. j|||^ Tonight we had no shelter, but we made a large fire around the trunk of one of the huge pines ; and covering the snow with small boughs, oq which we spread our blankets, soon made ourselves comfortable. The night was very bright and clear, though the thermometer was only at 10"» A strong wind, which sprang up at sundown, made it intensely cold ; and this was one of the bitterest nights during the journey. Two Indians joined our party here; and one of them, an old m^^n, im- mediately began to harangue us, saying that ourselves and animals would perish in the snow; and that if we would go back, he would show us an- other and a better way across the mountain. He spoke in a very loud voice, and there was a singular repetition of phrases and arrangement of words, which rendered his speech striking, and not unmusical. ^ We had now begun to understand some words, and, with the aid of signs, easily comprehended the old man's simple ideas. " Ijock upon rock — rock upon rock — snow upon snow — snow upon snow," said he ; " even if you pBt over the snow, you will not be able to get down from the mountains.'* He made us the sign of precipices, and showed us how the feet of the horses would slip, ^nd throw them off from the narrow trails which led along their sides. Our Chinook, who comprehended even more readily than ourselves, and believed our situation hopeless, covered his head with his blanket, and began to weep and lament. " I wanted to see the whites," said he ; "I came away from my own people to see the whites, and I wouldn't care to die among them ; but here" — and he looked around into the cold night and gloomy forest, and, drawing his blanket over his head, began again to lament. Seated around the tree, the fire illuminating the rocks and the tall bolls of the pines round about, and the old Indian haranguing, we presented a group of very serious faces. February 5. — The night had been too cold to sleep, and we were up ver)' early. Our guide was standing by .the fire with ail his finery on; and seeing him shiver in the cold, I threw on his shoulders one of ray blankets. We missed him a lew minutes afterwards, and never saw him again. He had deserted. His bad faith and treachery were in perfect keeping with the estimate of Indian character, which a long intercourse with this people had gradually forced upon ray mind. While a portion of the camp were occupied in bringing up the baggage to this point, the remainder were busied in making sledges and snow shoes. 1 had determined to explore the mountain ahead, and the sledges were to be used in. transporting the baggage. The mountains here consisted wholly of a white micaceous granite- ,i it ' M' W ' 'T I m] 832 The day was pe foolly claar, and, while the sun was in the sky, warn and pleasant. By observation, our latitude was 38" 42' 26"; and elevation, by the boiling point, 7,400 feet, February fi. — Accompanied by Mr. Fitzpatrick, I sal out to-day with a reconnoitring party, on snow shoes. We inarched all in single file, tramp. ling the snow as heavily as we could. Crossing the open basin, in a march of about ten miles we reached the top of one of the peaks, to the left of the pass indicated by our guide. Far below us, dimmed by the distance "was a largo snowless valley, bounded on the western side, at the distance t)f about a hundred miles, by a low range of mountains, which Carson recognised with flight as the mountains bordering the coast. '• There," »aid he, "is the little mountain — it is 15 years ago since I saw it; bull am just as sure as if I had seen it yesterday." Between us, then, and this low coast range, was the vallsy of the Sacramento ; and no one who had not accompaiiiO'S us Oivough the incidents of our life for the last few months could ; ■ ,c t''f the bag- gage, we had the satisfaction to encamp within two and halt n^iles of the head of the hollow, and at the foot of the last mountain ridge. Here two large trees had been set on fire, and in the holes, where the snow had been mehed away, we found a comfortable camp. The wind kept the air filled with snow during the da- ; Iho sky was very dark in the southwest, though elsewhere very clear. The forest here has a noble appearance : the tall cedar is abundant ; its greatest height being 130 feet, and circumference 20, three or four feet above the ground ; and here I .see for the iir^t time the white pine, of which there are some mag- nificent trees. Hemlock spruce is among the timber, occasionally as large as 8 feet in diameter four feet above the groiftid ; but, in ascending, it tapers rapidly to less than one foot at the height of SO feet. I have not seen any higher than 130 feet, and the slight upper part is frequently broken off by the wind. The white spruce is frequent ; and the red pine, {pinus Colorado of the Mexicans,) which constitutes the beautiful forest along the flanks of the Sierra Nevada to the northward, is here the prin- cipal tree, not attaining a greater height than 140 .feet, though with some- limes a diameter of 10. Most of these trees appeared to differ slightly from those of the same kind on the other side of the continent. The elevation of the camp, by the boiling point, is 8,050 feet. We are now 1,000 feet above the level of the South Pass in the Rocky mountains ; and still we are not done ascending. The top of a flat ridge near was bare of snow, and very well sprinkled with bunch grass, suflicient to pasture the animals two or three days; and this was to be their main point of support. This ridge is composed of a compact trap, or basalt, of a columnar struc- ture ; over the surface are scattered large boulders of porous trap. The hills are in many places entirely covered with small fragments of volcanic rock. Putting on our snow shoes, we spent the afternoon in exploring a road ahead. The glare of the snow , combined with great fatigue, had rendered many of the people nearly blind ; but we were fortunate in having some black silk handkerchiefs, which, worn as veils, *ery much relieved the eye. *•' [ 174] 294 February \\. — High wind continued, and our trail this morning was nearly invisible — here and there indicated by a little ridge of snow. Uur situation became tiresome and dreary, requiring a strong exercise of pa. tience and resolution. In the evening 1 received a message from Mr. Fitepatrick, acquainlinir me with the utter failure of his attempt to get our mules and horses over the snow — the half-hidden trail had proved entirely loo slight to support thenoi, and they had broken through, and were plunging about or lying half buried in snow. Ho was occupied in endeavoring to get them back to his camp; and Li the mean time sent to me for further inslruclions. | wrote to him to^nd the animals immediat^y back to their old pastures; and, after having made mauls and shovels, turn in all the strength ol his party to open and beat a road through the silow, strengthening it with bran''hcs and boughs of the pines. February 12. — We made mauls, and worked hard at our end of the road all the day. The wind vnfs high, but the sun bright, and the snow thawing. We worked down the face of the hill, to meet the people at the other end. Towards sundown it beg^n to grow cold, and we shoul- dered our mauls, and trudged back to camp. February 13.-— We continued to labor on the roan ; and in the course of the day had the satisfaction to see the people working down the face of the opposite hill, about three n^iles distant. During the morning we had the pleasure of a visit from Mr. Fit/patrick, with the information ihut all was going on well. A party of Indians had passed on show shoes, who said they were going to the western side of the mountain after fish. This was an indication that the salmon were coming up the streams; and we could hardly restrain our impatience as we thought of them, and worked with increased vigor. The meat train did not arrive this evening, and I gave Godey leave to kill our little dog, ( Tlamath,) which he prepared in Indian fashion ; scorch- ing off the hair, and washing the skin with soap and snow, and then cut- ting it up into pieces, whreh were laid on the snow. Shortly afterwards, the sleigh arrived with a supply of horse meat ; and we had to-night aa extraordinary dinner — pea soup, mule, and dog. February 14. — Annexed is a view of the dividing ridge of the Sierra, taken from this encampment. With Mr. Preuss, I ascended to-day the highest peak to the right ; from which we had a beautiful view of a moun- tain lake at our feet, about fifteen miles in length, and so entirely surround- ed by mountains that we could not discover an outlet. We had taken with us a glass ; but, though we enjoyed an extended view, the valley was half hidden in mist, as when we had seen it before. Snow could be distin- guished on the higher parts of the coast mountains ; eastward, as far as the eye could extend, it ranged over a terrible mass of broken snowy moun- tains, fading off blue in the distance. The rock composing the summit con- sists of a very coaise dark volcanic conglomerate ; the lower parts appeared to be of a slaty structure. The highest trees were a few scattering cedars and aspens. From the immediate foot of the peak, we were two hours in reaching the summit, and one hour and a quarter in descending. The day had been very bright, still, and clear, and spring seems to be advancing rapidly. While the sun is in the sky, the snow melts rapidly, and gushing springs cover the face of the mountain in all the exposed places ; but their sinface freezes instantly with the disappearance of the sun. 118 morning Was B o( snow. Uur exercise of pa. ick, acquainting and horses over ilight lo support »ut or lying half 5t them back to instructions. | iir old pastures; strength of Jijs jthening it wjih our end of tlie t, and the snow >t the people at , and we id in the course own the face of norning we had rmation thut all »ow shoes, who ifterfish. This reams ; and we m, and worked Godey leave to iishion ; scorch' , and then cut- tly afterwards, lad to-niglit an of the Siern, Jed to-day the lew of a luoun- irely surround- had taken with 'alley was half uld be distiu* rd, as far as the 1 snowy inoun- le summit con- parts appeared ittcring cedars e two hours in The day he advancing y, and gushing ces; but their ing H.}^' k' I'' VU\ ^ 'fj i; ' )!<. U-T § H'i I Eli nm«d« during 6' 57", •nd >"«te frbrtttfry 16.- fril graisy hill ; i Upedilion beyon JrWjiw, extendinf Ifrom which the 8 lerably good grass ■down by way of |jn a deep hollow vateiola little c The night was !«nira»ls, which h lover during the i Itoour senses in We started agi breadth ot about below the ice sui Iniies below we b Ibahed to make Ifarlher, walking I was now pei JMr. Sutter lived Icampatdark. I 157 in number, se lalso, we were ag ISoffle of the bor! IdtMovered ur^x| ■the Indians told jtain ; tbey used i On the 1 9th, tl Ithe baggage ; am lencamped with t! lof the Pass in t |tbe Dalles of thi Tbe people, w [peak to enjoy a The temperat nent 9,338 feet This was 2,00 laod several peaV ■the extremity t ■seen of a range Itbeinselves. Tl phows that there er a flat count ^evada preven llongittide VZO° I Thus this Pas ■of Snowy mour lof the South Pi 239 [ J'O loMained (o-'nigbt aone obsorrations ; and the result from these, and oth- iniade during our stay, gires for the latitude 88" 41' 57", longitude 12Q*' i' 57", and rate of th« obronemeter 2d".81 ftbrwtry 16. — We had succeeded in getting ovr animals snfcl}^ to (he* grit grassy hill ; and this morning I storied >vith Jacob on a reconnoitring Hpeditifln beyond the mountain. We travelled along the crests of narro^r uit&^it, extending down from the iftountain in the direction of the valley^' Ifrom which the snr w w ts fast melting away. On the offen spots was toi-' wtnMy good grass ; and I judged we should succeed in getting the uatnp' own by way of these. Towards sundown we discovered some icy spots lin a deep hollow ; and, descending the ntonntain, we enoamped on the heMl rater ol a little creek, where at last the water found its way to the Pacific. The night was clear and very long. We heard the cries o\ some wild liniratis, which had been attracted by our fire, and a flock of geese passed lover during the night. Even these strange sounds hud something pleasant |toour senses in this region of silcnee ant< desolation. We started again early in the morning. The creek ac«)uired a regular breadth ot about ^0 feet, and we soon began to hear the rushing of the water below the ice surface, over which we travelled to avoid the snow ; a fcW ' Iniies below we broke through, where the water was several feet deep, and' Ibalied to make a fire and dry our clothes. We continued a few miles' |fartlier, wulking being very laborious without snow shoes. I was now perfectly satisfied that we had struck the ^tream on which iMr. Suiter lived ; and, turning about, made a hard' pu»h, and reached the Icamp at dark. Here we had th« pleasure to find all the remaining animals^ |57 in number, safely arrived at the grassy hill near the oanip ; and here, >Im, we were agreeably surprised with the sight of an abundance of salt. ISoffleof the horse guard' had gone to a neighboring hut for pine nuts, and^ Idtscovered urtexpectediy a large cake of very white fine-grained salt, which pe Indians told them- they had brought from the other side of the moun-'' [tain ; tbey used it to eat with their pine nuts, and readily sold it for goods. '• On the 1 9th, the people were occupied in making a road and bringing up Ithe baggage ; and, on the afternoon of the next day, f^bntary 20, 1844, we ' lencamped with the animals and all the m«t/eri0^ of the camp, on the summit' lof the Pass in the dividing ridge, 1,000 miles by cop travelled road from^ |tbe Dalles of the Columbia. The people, who had not yet been to this point, climbed the neighboring' ( [peak to enjoy a look at the valley. • The temperature of boiling water gave for the elevation of the encamp* ' tent 9,338 feet above the sea. This was 3,00Ofeet higher than the South Pass in the Rocky mountains, ind several peaks in view rose several thousand feet still higher. Thus, at ^he extremity l the continent, and near the coast, the phenomenon was een of a range of mountains still higher than the great Rocky mountains ' Itbemsclves. This extraordinary fact accounts for the Great Basin, and ' »hows that there must be a system of small lakes and rivers here scattered i lover a flat country, and which the extended and lofty range of the Sierra *ievada prevents from escaping to the Pacific ocean. Latitude SS" 44' ; |longitude 120° 28'. Thus this Pass in the Sierra Nevada, which so well deserves its name joi Snowy mountain, is eleven degrees west and abcKit four degrees soutfa lof the South Pass. U il ^:f PL MM m M WriM^m F li ill 1 K Wsm 1 Pif'iiB m n '} fI.MtscI 1 ,:;| m m m m mm PKR' iSd [ "4] 236 If Si-! n ■,'f'i 1 i . February 21 . — We now considered ourselves victorious over the mov tain ; having only Ihe descent before us, and the valley under our eves we felt strong hope that we should force our way down. But this was a case in which the descent was not facile. Still deep fields of snow lay between and there was a large intervening space of rough-looking mountains, through which we had yet to wind our way. Carson roused me this morning with an early iire, and we were all up long bcffore day, in order to pass the snow fields before the sun should render the crust eoft. We enjoyed this morn- ing a scene, at sunrise, which even here was unus'^p.Hy glorious and beauti. ful. Immediately above the eastern mountains was repeated a cloud-formed mass of purple ranges, bordered with bright yellow gold ; the peaks shot up into a narrow line of crimson cloud, above which the air wac tilled with a greenish orange ; and over all was the singular beauty of the bl^e sky. Passing along a ridge which commanded the lake on our right, of which we began to discover an outlet through a chasm on the west, we passed over alternating open ground and hard-crusted snow lields which support- ed the animals, and encamped on the ridge after a journey of 6 miles. The grass was better than we had yet seen, and we were encamped in a clump of trees twenty or thirty feet high, resembling white pine. With the excep- tion of these siiiail clumps, the ridges were bare ; and, where the snow found the support of the trees, the wind had blown it up into banks ten or fiftee>. feet high. It riijuired much care to hunt out a pructicable way, as the most open places frequently led to impassable banks. We had hard and doubtlul labor yet before us, as the snow appeared to be heavier where the timber began further down, with few open spots. Ascending a height, we traced out the best line we could discover for the next day\s march, and had at least the consolation to see that the ;nountaiu descended rapidly. The day had been one of April ; gusty, with ic few oc- casional flakes of snow ; which, in the afternoon, enveloped the upper mountain in clouds. We watched them anxiously, as now we dreaded a snow storm. Shortly afterwards we heard the roll of thunder, and, looking towards the valley, found it all enveloped in a thunder storm. For us,as connected with the idea of summer, it had a singular charm; and we watch- ed its picfjiress with excited feelings until nearly sunset,when the sky clear- ed off brightly, and we saw a shining .line of water dire'^ting its coarse to- wards another, a broader and larger sheet. We knew hat these could be no other than the Ka«.ramento and the bay oj San Francisco; but, after oiir - long wandering in rugged mountains, where so frequently we had met with difiappointmcnis, and where the crossing of every ridge displayed some un- known lake or river, we were yet almost af«aid to believe that we were at last to escape into the genial country of which we had heard so man) glov.'ing descriptions, and dreaded again to find some vast interior lake, whose bitte' waters would bring us disappointment. On the southern shon of what appeared to be the bay could be traced ihe gleaming line where entered another lar^e sireara ; and again the Buenaventura rose up in our minds. Carson had entered the valley along the southern side of the bay, and re- membered perfectly to have crossed the mouth of a very large stream, which they had been obliged to raft ; but the country then was so entirely covered with water from snow and rain, that he had been able to form no correct impression of watercourses. We had the satisfaction to know that at least there were people below. 237 C "4 ] Fires were lit up in the valley just at night, appearing to be in answer to ours* and these signs of life renewed, in some measure, the gayety of the camp. They appeared so near, that we judged them to be among the tim- ber of some of the neighboring ridges ; but,* havmg ihem constantly in viewr day after day, and night after night, we afterwards found them to be tires that had been kindled by the Indians among the tulare^y on the shore of the bay, 80 miles distant. Among the very few plants (hat appeared here, was the common blue flax. To-night, a mule was killed for food. * February 22. — Our breakfast was over long before day. We took ad- vantage of the coolness of the early morning to get over the snow, which to-dav occurred in very deep banks among the timber ; but we searched out the boldest places, and the animals passed successfully with their loads the hard crust. Now and then, the delay of making a road occasioned much labor and loss of time. In the after part of the day, we saw before us a handsome grassy ridge point ; and, making a desperate push over a snow field 10 to 15 feet deep, we happily succeeded in getting the camp across; and encamped on the ridge, after a march of three miles. We had again the prospect of a thunder storm below ; and to-night we killed ar othet mule — now our only resource from starvation. We satisfied ourselves during the day that the lake had an outlet be- tween two ranges on (he right ; and with this, the creek on which I had encamped probably effected a junction below. Between these, we were descending. We continued to enjoy the same delightful weather ; the sky of the same beautiful blue, and such a sunset and sunrise as on our Atlantic coast we could scarcely imagine. And here among the mountains, 9,000iipet above the sea, we have the deep-blue sky and sunny climate of Smyrna and Palermo, which a little map before me shows are in the same latitude. The elevation above the sea, by the boiling point, is 8,565 feet. February 23. — This was our most difficult day : we were forced ofi' the ridges by the quantity of snow among the timber, and obliged to take to the mountain sides, where, occasionally, rocks and a southern exposure af- forded us a chance to scramble clong. But these were steep, and slippery with snow and ice ; and the tough evergreens of the mountain irapedett our way, tore our skins, and exhausted our patience. Some of us had the misfortune to wear moccasins with parjleche soles, so slippery that we could iiot keep our feet, and generally crawled across the snow beds. Axes and mauls were necessary to-day, to make a road through the snow. Going ahead with Carson to reconnoitre the .oad, we reached in the afternoon the river which made the outlet of the lake. Carson sprang over, clear across a place where the stream was compressed among rocks, but the parjieche sole of my moccasin glanced from the icy rock, and precipitated me into the river. It was some few seconds before 1 could recover myself in the cur- rent, and Carson, thinking mc hurt, jumped in after me, and we both had an icy bath. We tried to search a while for my gun, which had heen lost in tlie fall, but the cold drove us out ; and making a brge fire on the b^nk, afier we had partially dried ourselves we went back to meet the camp. We afterwards found that the gun had been slung under the ice which lined the banks of the creek. Using our old plan ol breaking the road with alternate horses, we reached the creek in the evening, and encamped on a dry open place in the ravine. i i^m i ; I'&ii 'I- ■• J" -;l ..' ■ I . ./ J[ 174 ] 288 Another braivch, whUih . servalion, and obtained for the place '. latitude of 36^ 46' 58" ; Ion ;itude 120" 34' 20". The sky was clear and pwe, with a sharp wind from tiie northcaslr and the tii«rmometcr 2° below the freezing point. Wc continued down the south face of the inoiintain ; our road Icadinr over dry ground, we were able to avoid the snow almost entirely. In the course of the morning, we struek a foot path, which we were generallyable to keep ; and the ground was soft to our animals' feet, being sandy or cover- ed with .*uould. Green grass be^an to makQ its appearance, and occasion. ally we passed a hill scatteringly covered with it. The character of iIh^ I forcbt^ continued the saiiu! ; and^ among the trees, the pine with sharp leaves and very large cones wasabur>dant,some of them being noble trees. I We meu.surcd one that had 10 feet diameter, though the height Wiiinot I more than 130 feet. All alon)>', the river was a roaring torrent, its fall | very great; and, descending with a rapidity to which we had long been strangers, lo our great pleasure oak trees appeared on the ridge, and soon becniite very frequent; on these I remarked unusually great quantities of mistletoe. Hushes began to make their appearance ; and at a small creek wheic U^y wero abundant, one of the meases was left with the weakest horses, Wliilc we continued on. The opposite mountain side was very steep and continuous — unbroken by "avines, and covered with pines and snow ; while on the side w". were .travelling, innumetabie rivulets poured down from the ridge. Continuing on, we halted a moment at one of these rivulets, to admne some beautiful evergreen trees, resembling live oak, which shaded the little stream. They were forty to lifly feet high, imd two in diameter, with a uniform tuliedtoji; and the summer grccit ol their beautiful toliuge, with the singing birds, and the sweet summer wind which was whirling about the dry oak leaves, nearly intoxicated ub with delight ; ar»d we hurried on, fdled with eitcile- inent, to escape entirely from the horrid region of inhospitable snow, totue perpetual spring of the Sacramento. When we had travelled .about ten miles, the valley opened a little toan oak and pine bottom, through which ran rivulets closely bordered with rushes, on which our hall-starved horses fell with avidity ; and here we made our encampment. Hfti. ihe roaring torrent has already becoine a river, and we had descended to an elevation of 3,864 feet. Along our road to-day the rock was a white granite, which appears to constitute the upper part of thq mountains on both the eastern and weatern slopes- while between, the central is a volcunic rock. Another horse was killed to-niglit, for food. Fehruary 25. — Believing that the dilficulties of the road were passed, and leaving Mr. Fit/patriok to lollow slowly, as the condition ol the ani- mals rnquiied, I started ahead this morning with a party of eight, consist- ing (with myself) of Mr. I'reussand Mr. Talbot, Carson, Dero.sier, Towns, 899 C m] Proue, and Jacob. We took with us some of ihe best animnU, aodmy in- tention was to proceed as lapidly as possible to the house of Mr. Sutter, and return to meet the party with a supply of provisions and fresh aniiiMils. Continuing down the river, which pursued a very direct westerly course through a narrow valley, with only a very slight and narrow bottom land, we made twelve miles, and encamped at some old Indian huts, apparently a fishing plac6 on the river. The bottom was cov«ie'» with trees of de- ciduous foliage, and overgrown with vines and rushes. On .1 bench of the hill ncar by, was a field of fresh green grass, six inches long in some of the tufts which 1 had the curiosity to measure. The animals w^re driven here ; and 1 ^pent pari of the afternoon sitting on a large rock aoiong thorw, enjoying the pauseless rapidity with which thoy luxuriated in the unaccustomed food. The loifisi was imposing to-day in the magnificence of the trees : some of the pines, bearing large cones, were 10 feet in diameter ; cedars also abounded, and we measured one 28^ feet in circumfcrtMice four leet from the ground. This noble tree seemed here to be in its proper soil and cli- mate. We found it on both sides of the Sierra, but most abundant on the \ve8t. Februanj 20. — We continued to follow the sti oam, the mountains on ;ither hand increasing in height as we descended, and shutting up the river narrowly in precipices, along which we had grftat difficulty to get our horses. It rained heavily during the afternoon, and we were forced off tlie river to the heights above ; whence we descended, at night-fall, the point of a spur between the river and a foik of nearly equal sizc^ coming in from the right. Here we saw, on the lower hills, the first flowers in bloom, which occurred euddenly,and in considera!)lc quantity ; one of them a s{>ecieBDf gilia. The current in both streams (rather torrents than rivers) was broken by large boulders. It was late, and the animals fatigued ; and not succeeding to find a ford immediately, wo encamped, although the hill side afforded but a lew 9tr.iy buJiches of grass, and the horses, staudin;?; aboui in the rain, looked very miserable. February 27. — We succeeded in fording the stream, and made a trail by which we cros.sed the point of the opposite hill, which, on the southern exposure, was prettily covered with green grass, and we halted a U)ile fron; our laot enciimpnn nt. The river wns only about sixty feet wide, but ripid, and occasionally deep, foaming among boulders, and the wat(M' beautifully clear. Wf encamped on the hill slope, as there was no bottom )ovel,and the opposite ridge is continuous, affording no streams. We had with us a large kettle ; and a jrade being killed b.ese, his h^ad was boiled in it for several hours, and made ^^ pasHable so ip lor faniishe'1 people. llelow, precipices on the river forced us to the Ik ighln, which wc as- cended by a steep spur 2,000 feet high. My favorite liorso, I'rovcAU, had heroine very weak, and >vassearcely uble to bring hinvself to {\u: top Trav- elling here was good, except in crussing the ravines, which were narrow, sleep, and froquciit. Wc caught a gliimps(; of a deer, the first animal we had seen ; but did not s'-,ccee.^;*.i^ f n V depended on finding it to-night. They were In Ju.st : uch a conJilion I'uai grass and repose for the night enabled them to get on the next day. Everv hour we had been expecting i see open out before ub (hi ull^y . which, fioi,, tli**. mountain above, seemed almost at our feet. A n«* .-^nd f iigular shrub w'r.i'.h had raade its appearance since crossing (he mo. nt.ur>, /.as veryTre' quorit to-day. It branched out near the ground, for-nhig a ciuinp eichtlo ten feet high, with pale-green leaves of an oval form , and the body and branches had a naked appearance, as if stripped of the bark, which is very smooth and thin, of a cSocolate color, contrasting well with the pale green of the leaves. The day was nearly gone ; we had made a hard day's march and found no grass. Towns became light-headed, wandering off into the woods without knotving where he was going, and Jacob brought hira back. Near night-fall we descended into the steep ravine of a liandsome creek thirty feet wide, and I was engaged in getting the horses up the opposite hill, when I heard a shout from Carson, who had gone ahead a few hun- dred yards — "Life yet," said he, as he came up, " lile yet ; I have founda hill side sprinkled with grais enough for the night." We drove along our horses, and encamped at (he place about dark, and there was just room enough to make a place for shelter on the edge of the stream. Three horses were lost to-day — Proveau ; a fincyoun^ horse from the Columbia, belonging to Charlf^* Towns; and another Indian horse which cairiedour cooking utensils ; the two former gave out, and the latter strayed off into I the woods as we reached tb# camp. ' February 29- — We l»f shut up in the narrow ravine, and gave the ani- mals a nec»-*8ary day ; hxM men were sent back after inn others. Derosier volunteeied to bring up Proveau, to whom he knew f was greatly attach- ed, as he had been my favorite hors* on both expeditions. Carson and! climbed one oi the nearest mountains ; the forest laud still extended ahead, and (he valley appeared a» far as ever. The pack horse was found Dear the camp, but Derosier did not get in. March 1. — Derosier did not get in during (he uifjltt, and leaving him to follow, as no grass remained here, we continued on ovenhe uplands, cross- ing many small streams, and camped again on the river, having made 6 miles. Here we foiind the iii'l side covered (although lightly) withfiesh green grass ; and from thr t.^.a forward we found it always improving and abundant. We made a pleasant camp on the river hill, where were some beautiful specimens of the chocolate-colored shrub, which were a foot in diameter near the ground, and fifteen to twenty feet high. The opposite ridge runs continuously along, unbrcken by streams. We are rapidly descending into the spring, and we are leaving our snowy region far behimi ; every thing is getting green ; butterflies are swarming; numerous bugs are creeping out, wakened from their winter's sleep ; and the fotest flowers are coming into bloom. Among those which appeared most numerously to-day wmdmli- catheon dentatum. We begarj to be uneasy at Derosier's absence, fearing ho. m'l^M h;ive been bewildered in the woods. Charh s Towns, who had not yvt recovered his mind, went to swim in vne river, as if it were su'nnier, and ilse stream placid, when it was a cold mountain torrent foiimiiig among iock.'«. \^e were hapj>y to ce Deicsicr appear in (he evening. He came in, ami, iinii-i down by the iie, bf^^an to tell us where he had been. He im;ij:ine(l he ha4 been gone several days, nnd thought we weie still at the camp nvIk '' 'm-m 341 [ 174 1 Yj bad left us ; and wo vtit''": rained to see that his mind was deraiiged. It ;hat he had been lost in the mountain, and hunger and fatigue, C'ft.' ■ joi..eU ii> weakness of body, and fear of perishing in (tie m ^untains, had crazed him. The times were severe when etout men lc;)t iheh minds from extremity of suffering — when horses died — and when mules and Norses, ready to die of starvation, were kiiied for food. Yet there wau no mur- muring or hesitation. A short distance below our encampment, the river mountains terminated in precipices, and, after a fatiguing march of only a few miles, we encamped on a bench where there were springs and an abundance of the freshest grass. In the mean time, Mr. Preuss continued on down the river, and, unaware that we had encamped so early in the day, was lost. When night arrived, and he did not come in, we began to understand what had hap- pened to him ; but it was too late to make any search, March 3. — We followed Mr. Preuss's trail for a considerable distance along the river, until we iCached a place where he had descended to the stream below and encamped. Here we shouted and fired guns, but received no answer ; and we concluded that he had pushed on down the stream. I determined to keep out from the river, along which it was nearly impracti- cable to travel with animals, unlil it should form a valley. At every step the country improved in beauty ; the pines were rapidly disappearing, and oaks became the principal trees of the forest. Among \ hese, the prevailing tree was the evergreen oak, ( which, by way of distinction, we p.hall call the live oak ;) and with these, occurred frequently a new species of oak bearing a long slender acorn, from an inch to an inch and a half in length, which we now began to see formed the principal vegetable food of the inhabitants of this region. In a short diptance we crossed a little rivulet, where were two old huts, and near by were heaps of acorn hulls. The ground round about was very rich, covered with an exuberant sward" of grass; and we sat down for a while in the shade of the oaks, to let the animals feed. Wc repeated our shouts for Mr. Preuss ; and this time we were gratified with an answer. The voice grew rapidly nearer, ascending from the river ; but when we expected to see him emeriti:, it ceased entirely. We had called up some straggling Indian — the first we had met, although for two days back we had seen tracks — who, mistaking us for his fellows, had been or^y un- deceived on getting close up. It would have been pleasant to wit'^ess hi astonishment ; he would not have been more frightened had some of the old mountain spirits they are so much afraid of suddenly appiired in his path. Ignorant of the character of these people, we had now an additional causs of uneasiness in regard to Mr. Preuss; he had no a'niswith him, and we began to think his chance doubtful. We followed on a trail, still keep- ing out from the river, and descended to a very large creek, dashing with great velocity over a pre-eminently rocky bed and among large boulders. The bed had sudden breaks, formed by deep holes and ledges of rock run- ning across. Even here, it deserves the name of Rock creek, which we gave to it. We succeeded in fording it, and toiled about three thousand feet up the opposite hill. The mountains now were getting sensibly lower ; but stil! there is no valley on the river, which presents steep and rocky banks ; but here, nevcral miles from the river, the country is smooth and grassy ; the forest has no undergrowth ; and in the open valleys of rivulets, or around Bprinii; heads, the low groves of live oak give the appearance of orchards if*' > i i^d cultivated country. Occasionally we met dser, but had not the 1« ! I \m : i. >t -^s Ik. i:J"5l t:K m i '% ■ ' I !:!• i U '?■'■ mi C 174 ] 242 necessary time for Iion(«ng. At one of these orchard grounds, we encabiped about noon to make an ofifoit for Mr. Preuss. One man took his way alunt a spur leading into (he river, in hope to cross his trail ; and another took uur own back. Both were volunteers ; and lo the successful man was prom- ised a pair of pistols — not as a reward, but as a token of giatitude for a service which would free us all from much anxiety. We had among our few animals a horse whic'i was so much reduced that, with travelling, 6ven (he good grass could not save him; and,havine nothing to eat, he was killed (his afternoon. He was a good animal, and had made the journey round from Fort Hull. Dodecatheon dentatum continued the characteristic plant in flower; and the naked looking shi ub iilready mentioned continued characteristic, begin- ning to put forth a small white Itlossom. At evening the men returned, liar- ing seen or heaid nothing of Mr. Preuss; and 1 determined to make a hard push down the river the next morning, and get ahead of him. March 4. — We continued rapidly along on a broad plainly-beaten trail, the mere travelling and breathing the delightful air being a positive enjoy, ment. Our road led along a ridge inclining to the river, and the air and the open grounds were fragrant with flowering shrubs ; and in the course of the morning we issued on an open spur, by which we descended directly to the stream. Here the river issues suddenly from the mountains, which hitherto had hemmed it closely in ; these now become softer, and change sensibly their character; and at this point commences the most beautilul valley in which we had ever travelled. We hurried to the river, on which we noticed a small sand beach, to which Mr. Preuss would naturally have gone. We found no trace of him, but, instead, were recent tracks of bare- tooted Indians, and little piles of muscle shells, and old fires where they had roasted the fioh. We travelled on over the river grounds, which were undulating, and covered with grass to the river brink. We halted to noon a Tew miles beyond, always unler the shade of the evergreen oaks, which formed opT. groves on the bottoms. Continuing our road in the afternoon, we ascended to the uplands, where the river passes round a point of great beauty, and goes through very re- markable-dalles, in charafter resembling those of the Columbia river, and which you -.vill nnd mentioned on the map annexed. 3fy«nd, we again descend'^d ♦o the bottoms, where we found an Indian village, consisting of two or three huts; we had come upon them suddenly, and the people had evidently jWt run cilT. The huts were low and slight, made like beehives in a picture, five or six feet high, and near each was a crate, formed of in- terlaced hranohes and grass, in size and shape like a very large ho^rshead. Each of these contained from six to nine bu^hels. These were filled with the lonj^ acorns already mentioned, and in the huts were several neatly rrride brsic^*!, containing quantities of the aeorns roasted. They were sweet and j:p,reL£!'5y flavored, and we supplied ourselves with about half a btisliel, Ijravingone <>f our shirts, a handkerchief, and some smaller arricles, in ex- change Til ' iiver again entered for a space among hills, and we followed a (rail leading across a bend through a handsome hollow behind, liere, while enj^^Vjged in trying to circumvent a deer, we discovered some Indians on a hill several hundred yards ahead, and g tve them a shout, to whirh they lesponded by loud and lapid talking and vehement grsti?ui: grass. These did not make any lamentations, but appeared very mufMi impressed with our appearance, speaking to us only in a whisper, and offering us smaller baskets of the plant, which they signified to us was gOod to eat, makin<; signs also that it was lobe cooked by thf fiie. We drew out a little cold horse meat, and the squaw* made signs to us that the men had gone out alter deer, and that we could have some by waiting till they came in. We observed that the horses ate with gieat avidity (he be»b which ihey had been gathering ; and heie also, for thje first time, we t>aw Indians eat the common grass — one of the sqnuws pulling several tuftfi, and eating it with apparent reliKh. See- ing our surprise, she pointed to the horses ; but we could no( well under- s(and what she meant, except, perhaps, (hat what was good for the one was good lor the other. We encamped in the evenin;z on the shore of the river, at a place where the associated I)pautie8 of scenery m.ide so strong an impression on us (hat we have given i( (he name of the lieautiful Camp. The undulating river shoie w.is shaded with (he live oaks, wlii^-h formed a continuousi grove over the country, and the same grassy sward extended to (he edge of the water ; and we made our fires near some large granite masses which were lym«j among the trees. We had seen several of the acorn caches during the d.w ; and here there were (wo which were very large, containing each, probably, (en bushels. Towards evening we heard a weak hhou( among the hills behind, and had the pleasure to see Mr. Pieuss descendinu; towards (he camp. Like ourselves, he had travelled to-day 25 miles, but had seen nothing of Uerosier. Knowinsr, on (he day he was lost, that I w.is deter- mined to keep the river as much as possible, lie had not (bought it neces- sary to lollow the (rail very closely, but walked on, right and left, cer- tain (0 find it somewhere along the itver, searching places (o obtain i>ood views oltiie country. Towai (is sunset he climbed down towards the river to look lor the camp; but, finding no ti ail, concluded (ha(we were behind, and walked back until night came on, when, being very much fatigued, he collected drift wood and n»ade a laige fiie amon«s the rocks. The n«'Xt day it became more seiious, and ho encamped apain alone, thinking (hat we must have taken some otIiQr eotirse. To go back woi.id have been mad- ness in his weak and starved condition, and onward towards (he valley was bis only hope, alw.iys in expectation of reaching it soon Flis prin- cipal moans of siibsistenfc were a few root?, which (he Imiii(»'is call sweet onions, bavin}; very li(tle (aste, but a good deal of nutriment, jrrowinii gen- erally in r m nllt ; thtse had un agieeabic acid ttt«te. One of hi:t greatest privations wus tic want f':f;:^ if. ! V f '.'.: i [ 174] 244 :i of tobacco ; and a pleasant smoke at evening would hare been a relief whicb only a voyageur could appreciate. He tried the dried leaves of the live oak, knowing that those of other oaks were sometimes used as a sub- stitute ; but these were too thick, and would not do. On the 4th he made seven or eight miles, walking &lowly along the river, avoiding as much as possible to climb the hills. In little pools he caught some of the smallest kind of frogs, which he swallowed, not so much in the gratification of hun- ger, as in the hope of obtaining some strength. Scattered along the river were old fire-places, where the Indians had roasted muscles and acorn9; but though he searched diligently, he did not there succeed in finding either. He had collected fire wood for the night, when he heard at some dilitance from the river the harkii)^ of what he thought were two dogs, and walked in that direction as quickly as he was able, hoping to find there I some Indian hut, but met only two wolves ; and, in his disappointment, the f gloom of the forest was doubled. Travelling the next day feebly down the river, he found five or six In- dians at the huts of which we have spoken ; some were painting them- selves black, and others roasting acorns. Being only one man, they did not run off, but received him kindly, and gave him a welcome supply of roasted acorns. He gave them his pocket knife in return, and stretched out his hand to one of the Indians, who did not appear to comprehend the motion, but jumped back, as if he thought he was about to lay hold of him. They seemed afraid of him, not certain as to what he was. ^ Travelling on, he came to the place where we had found the squaws. Here he found our fire still burning, and the tracks of the hor&es. The sight gave him sudden hope and courage ; and, following as fast as he «ould, joined us at evening. March 6. — We continued on our road, through the same, surpassing!/ beautiful country, entirely unequalled for the pasturage of stock by any thing we had ever seen. Our horses had now become so strong that they were able to carry us, and we travelled rapidly — over four miles an hour; four of us riding every alternate hour. Every few hundred yards we canoe upon a little band of deer ; but we were too eager to reach the settlement, wl. ich we momentarily expected to discover, to halt for any other than a pass- ing "ihot. In a few hours we reached a large fork, the northern branch of the river, and equal in size to that which we had descended. Together they formed a beautiful stream, 60 to 100 yards wide ; which at first, igno<- rant of the natttre of the country through which that river ri^n, we took to be the Sacramento. We continued down the i igbt bank of the river, travelling for a while over a wooded upland, where we had the delight to discover tracks of cattle. To the southwest was visible a black column of smoke, which we had fre- quently noticed in descending, arising from the fires we had seen from the top of the Sierra. From the upland we descended into broad groves on the river, consisting of the evergreen, and a new species of white oak with a large tufted top, and three to six feet in diameter. Among these was no brushwood ; and the grassy surface gave to it the appearance of parks in an old settled country. Following the tracks of the horses and cattle in ■earch of people, we discovered a small village of Indians Some of these bad on shirts of civilized manufacture, but were otherwise naked, and we could understand nothing from them ; they appeared entirely astonished at •eeiog u«. 246 [ "4 J !! We made an acorn meal at noon, and hurried on ; the valley being gay with flowers, and some of the banks being absolutely golden with the Cali- fornian poppy, {eachscholtzia crocea.) Here the grass was smooth and green, and the groves very open ; the large oaks throwing a broad shade among sunny spots. Shortly afterwards we gave a shout at the appearance on a little bluff of a neatly built adobe house with glass windows. Wc rode up, but, to our disappointment, found only Indians. There was no ap- pearance of cultivation, and we could see no cattle, and we supposed the place had been abandoned. We now pressed on more eagerly than ever; the river swept round in a large bend to the right; the hills lowered down entirely ; and, gradually entering a broad valley, we came unexpectedly into a large Indian village, where the people looked clean, and wore cotton shirts and various other articles of dress. They immediately crowded around us, and wc had the inexpressible delight to find one who t>pokc a little indifferent Spanish, but who at lirst confounded us by saying there were no whites in the country ; but just then a well-dressed Indian came up, and made his salutations in very well spoken Spanish. In answer to our in- quiries, he informed us that we were upon the Riode loa Americanoaj (the river of the Americans,) and that it joined the Sacramento river about 10 miles below. Never did a name sound more sweetly ! We felt ourselves among our countrymen ; for the name of Aniericanj in these distant parts, is applied to the citizens of the United States. To our eager inquiries he answered, " I am a vaquero (cow heid) '.: the service of Capt. Sutter, and the people of this rancheria work for him." Our evident satisfaction made him communicative; and he went on to say that Capt. Sutter was a very rich man, and always glad to see his country people. We asked for his bouse. He answered, that it was just over the hill before us ; and offered, if we would wait a moment, to take his horse and conduct us to it. We readily accepted his civil offer. In a short distance we came in sight of the fort ; and, passing on the way the house of a settler on the opposite side, (a Mr. Sinclair,) we forded the river; and in a few miles were met a short distance from the fort by Capt. Sutter himself. He gave us a most frank and cordial reception — conducted us immediately to his residence — and under his hospitable roof we had a night of rest, enjoyment, and refresh- ment, which none but ;urselves could appreciate. But the party left in the mountains With Mr. Fitzpatrick were to be attended to ; and the next morning, supplied with fresh horses and provisions, I hurfied off to meet them. On the second day we met, a few miles below the forks of the Rio de los Americanos; and a more forlorn and pitiable sight than they present- ed cannot well be imagined. They were all on foot — each man, weak and emaciated, leading a horse or mule as weak and emaciated as themselves. They had experienced great difficulty in descending the mountains, made slippery by rains and melting snows, and many horses fell over precipices, and were kilied ; and with some were lost the packs they carried. Among these, v;'!»s a mule with the plants which we had collected sin a leaving Fort Hall, along a line of 2,000 miles travel. Out of 67 horses and mules with which we commenced crossing the Sierra, only 33 reached the valley of the Sacramento, and they only in a condition to be led along. Mr. Fitz- patrick and his party, travelling more slowly, had been able to make some little exertion at hunting, and had killed a few deer. The scanty supply was a great relief to them ; lor several had been made sick by the strange and unwholesome food which the preservation of life compelled them to }■■ il«*' »• ) 1., fi' I m " .t". !;■• [ lt4] 346 use. We stopped and encamped as soon as we met ; and a repast of good beef, excellent bread, and delicious salmon, which I had brought along were their first relief from the sufferings of the Sierra, and their first intro- duction to the luxuries of the Sacramento. It required all our philosophj and forbearance to prevent plenty from becoming as hurtiul to us now, as tearcity had been before. The next day, March 8th, we encamped at the junction of the two riv- ers, the Sacramento and Americanos ; and thus found the whole party in the beautiful valley of the Sacramento. It was n convenient place for the camp; and, among other things, was within reach of the wood necessary to make the pack saddles, which we should need on our long journey homCi from which we were farther dibtant now than we were four months before, when from the Dalles of the Columbia we so cheerfully took up the homeward line of march. Captain Sutter emigrated tp this country from the western part of Mis- souri in 18S8-'39, and formed the first settlement in the valley, on a large grant of land which he obtained from the Mexican Government. He had, at first, some trouble with the Indians ; but, by the occasional exercise of wcdl-tiraed authority, he has succeeded in converting them into a peaceable ana industrious people. The ditches around his extensive wheat fields; the making of the sun-dried bricks, of which his fort is constructed ; the ploughing, harrowing, and other agricultural operations, are entirely (he ^ork of these lodinns, for which they receive a very moderate compensa- tion — principally in shirts, blankets, and other articles of clothing. In the same manner, on application to the chief of a village, he readily obtains as many boys and girls as he has any use for. There were at this time a number of girl^ at the fort, in training for a future woollen factory ; but they were now all busily engaged in constantly watering the gardens, which the unfavorable dryness of the season rendered necessary. The oc- casional dryness of some seasons, I understood to be the only complaiutof the settlers in this fertile valley, as it sometimes renders the crops uncer- tain. Mr. Sutter was about making arrangements to irrigate his lands bj means of the Rio de los Americanos. He had this year sown, and alto- gether by Indian labor, thiee hundred fanegas of wheat. A few years since, the neighboring Russian establishment of Ross, being about to withdraw from the country, sold to him a lar^c number of stock, with agricutt^l and other stores, with a number of pieces of artillery and 4>ther munitions of war ; for these, a regular yearly payment is made in grain. The fort is a quadrangular adobe structure, mounting 12 pieces uf artil- lery, (two of them brass,) and capable of admitting a garrison of a thou- sand men ; this, at present, consists of 40 Indians, in uniform — one of whom wr\s always found on duty at the gate. As might naturally be ex- pected, the pieces are not in very good order. The whites in the em- ployment of Capt. Sutter, American, French and German, amount, per- haps, to 30 men. The inner wall is formed into buildings comprising the common quarters, with blacksmith and other workshops; the dwelling house, with a large distillery bouse, and other buildings, occupying more the centre of the area. ' It is built upon a pond-like stream, at times a running creek communicat- ing with (he Rio de los Americanos, which enters the Sacramento about two miles below. The latter is here a noble river, about three hundred yards broad, deep and tranquil, with several fathoms of water in the channel, and *i.-*h'»"' ] i i Uo lin 1 i 1 I jbat IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // :/ fe z -^ 1.0 I.I f -^ m ill 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 ^ 6" ► V] <^ /^ 7 7 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 rtV V ^p o - % A % .V ^\%\ r o ^^^ ... mf. Rio NUEVA'HELM^TIA < X SCALE a MILKS TO ONE INCH Xith by K Web«i*<... Ballimorr MA. !!l :i i'i i ll H i :iS ;i i Si i [ 11 use. beef wer( duct and i scare Tk ers, 1 the b camp to m* boinQ befon the^ sour 11 gran I 3t fir9 weU-t and ic the mi plougj ivorkj tion— same many numb< they V which casion the set tain. means gether Afe about t with &( other n. The, lery, (t' sand m whom ' peeled^ Eloyme aps, tc common house, ^ the cent It is I ing witJ miles b broad :j S47 [ "4 ] its banks continuously timbered. There were two vessels b longing to Capt. Sutter at anchor near tlie landing — one a large two-masted lighter, and the other a schooner, which was shortly to proceed on a voyage to Fort Vancouver for a cargo of goods. Since his arrival, several other persons, principally Americans, have es- tablished themselves in the valley. Mr. Sinclair, frop whom I experienced much kindnvjss during ray stay, is settled a few miles distant, on the Rio de los Americanos. Mr. Coudrois, a gentleman from Germany, has estab- lished himself on Feather river, and is associated with Captain Sutter in agricultural pursuits. Among other improvements, they are about to in- troduce the cultivation of rape seed, {brassica rapus^) which there is every reason tu believe is admirably adapted to the climate and soil. The lowest average produce of wheat, as far as we can at present know, is 35 fanegas for one sown ; but, as an instance of its fertility, it may be mentioned that Sefior Valejo obtained, on a piece of ground where sheep had been pas- tured, 800 fanegas for eight sown. The produce being different in various places, a very correct idea cannot be formed. An impetus was given to the active little population by our arrival, as we were in want of every thing. Mules, horses, and cattle, were to be col- lected ; the horse mill was at work day and night, to make sufficient flour ; the blacksmith's shop was put in requisition for horse shoes and bridle bitts ; and pack saddles, ropes, and bridles, and all the other little equip- ments'^of the camp, were again to be provided. The delay thus occasioned was one of repose and enjoyment, v/hich our situation required, and, anxiousas we were to resume our homeward jour- ney, was regretted by no one. In the mean time, I had the pleasure to meet with Mr. Chiles, who was residing at a farm on the other side of the river Sacramento, while engaged in the selection of a place for a settlement, for which he had received the necessary grant of land from the Mexican Gov- ernment. It will be remembered that we had parted near the frontier of the States, and that he had subsequently descended the valley of Lewis's fork, with a party of 10 or 1 2 men, with the intention of crossing the intermediate moun- tains to the waters of the bay of San Francisco. In the execution of this design, and aided by subsequent information, he left the Columbia at the mouth of Malheur river ; and, making his way to the head waters of the Sacramento with a part of his company, travelled down th^t river to the settlements of Nueva Helvetia. The other party, to whom he had com- mitted his wagons, and mill irons and saws, took a course further to the south, and the wagons and their contents were lost. On the 22d we made a preparatory move, and encamped near the settle- ment of Mr. Sinclair, on the left bank of the Rio de los Americanos. I had discharged five of the paity : Neal, the blacksmith, (an excellent workman, and an unmarried man, who had done his duty faithfully, and had been of very great service to me,) desired to remain, as strong inducements were offered here to mechanics. Although at considerable inconvenience to my- self, his good conduct induced me to comply with his request ; and I ob- tained for him, from Captain Sutter, a present compensation of two dollars and a half per diem, with a promise that it should be increased to five, if he proved as good a workman as had been represented. He was more par- ticularly an agricultural blacksmith. The other men were discharged with their own consent. If,; I It.. Ht n ir ! inj |lllli r^, H 1 ^^B ' m ■1 1 I *l IwT II I i, ;H . ': } !• [ 174 ] 248 . While we remained at this place, Derosier, one of our best men, whose steady good conduct had won my regard, wandered off from the camp, and never returned to it again ; nor has he since been heard of. March 24. — We resumed our journey with an ample stock of provisions and a large cavalcade of animals, consisting of 130 horses and mules, and about thirty head of cattle, five of which were milch cows. Mr. Sutter furnished us also with an Indian boy, who had been trained as a vaquero, and who would be serviceable in managing our cavalcade, great part ot which were nearly as wild as buffalo ; and who was, besides, very anxious to go along with us. Our direct course home was east ; but the Sierra would force us south, above five hundred miles of travelling, to a pass at the head of the San Joaquin river. This pass, reported to be pood, was discovered by Mr. Joseph Walker, of whom I have already spoken, and whose name it might therefore appropriately bear. To reach it, our course lay along the valley of the San Joaquin — the river on our right, and the lofty wall of the impassable Sierra on the left. From that pass we were to move southeastwardly, having the Sierra then on the right, and reach the ^^Spanish /raii," deviously traced from one watering place to another, which constitut- ed the route of the caravans from Puebla delos A7igele8, near the coast of the Pacific, to Santa Fe of New Mexico. From the pass to this tr? il was 150 miles. Following that trail through a desert, relieved by some feriile plains indicated by the recurrence of the term vegas^ until it turned to the right to cross the Colorado, our course would be northeast until we regained the latitude we had lost in arriving at the Eutah lake, and thence to the Rocky mountains at the head of the Arkansas. This course of travelling, forced upon us by the structure of the country, would occupy a computed distance of two thousand miles before we reached the head of the Arkansas ; not a settlement to be seen upon it; and the names of places along it, all being Spanish or Indian, indicated that it had been but little trod by American (eet. Though long, and not free from hardships, this route presented some points of attraction, in tracing the Sierra Nevada — turning the Great Basin, perhaps crossing its rim on the south — completely solving the problem of any river, except the Colorado, from the Rocky mountains on that part of our continent — and seeing the southern extremity of the Great Salt lake, of which the northern part had been examined the year before. Taking leave of Mr. Sutter, who, with several gentlemen, accompanied us a fewmiles on our way, we travelled about eighteen miles, and encamped on the Rio de (os CosumneSy a stream receiving its name from the Indians who live in its valley. Our road was through a level country, admirably suited to cultivation, and covered with groves of oak trees, principally the ever- green oak, and a large oak already mentioned, in form like those of the white oak. The weather, which here, at this season, can easily be changed from the summer heat of the valley to the frosty mornings and bright days nearer the mountains, continued delightful for travellers, but unfavorable to the agriculturists, whose crops of wheat began to wear a yellow tinge from want of rain. March 26. — We travelled for 28 miles over the same delightful country as yesterday, and halted in a beautiful bottom at the ford of the Rio delos Mukelemnes^ receiving iis name from another Indian tribe living on the river. The bottoms on the stream are broad, rich, and extremely ferli'e; and the uplands are shaded with oak groves. A showy lupinus of extra- ordinary beauty, growing four to five feet in height, and covered with we came su ford, but the tain snows ; We travel able to find i catch a suffic packed. Under the mm in bloc 249 [ 174] «»ike8 in bloom, adorned the banks of the river, and filled the air with a : and grateful perfume. \jn the 26th we halted at the Arroyo de las Calaveras, (Skull creek,) a tributary to the San Joaquin — the previous two streams entering the baj between the San Joao/uin and Sacramento rivers. This place is beautiful, with open groves of oak, and a grassy sward beneath, with many plants in bloom ; some varieties of which seem to love the shade of the trees, and grow there in close small fields. Near the river, and replacing the grass, are great quantities of ammo/e, (soap plant,) the leaves of which are used in California for making, among other things, mats for saddle cloths. A vine with a small white flower, {melothria ?) called here la yerha buena^ and which, from is abundance, gives name to an island and town in the bay, was to-day very frequent on our road — sometimes running on the ground or climbing the trees. March 27. — To-day we travelled steadily and rapidly up the valley ; for, with our wild animals, any other gait was impop,sible, and making about five miles an hour. During the earlier part of the day, our ride had been over a very level prairie,,or rather a succession of long stretches of prairie, separated by lines and groves of Oak timber, growing along dry gullies, which are filled with water in seasons of rain ; and, perhaps, also, by the melting snows. Over much of this extent, the vegetation was sparse ; the surface showing plainly the action of water, which, in the season of flood, the Joaquin spreads over the valley. About 1 o'clock we came again among innumerable flowers ; and a few miles further, fields of the beautiful blue-flowering iw/)tne, which seems to love the neighborhood of water, indi- cated that we were approaching a stream. We here found this beautiful shrub in thickets, some of them being 12 feet in height. Occasionally three or four plants were clustered together, forming a grand bouquet, about 90 feet in circumference, and 10 feet high ; the whole summit covered with ipikes of flowers, the perfume of which is very sweet and grateful. A lover of natural beauty can imagine with what pleasure we rode among these flowering groves, which filled the air with a light and delicate fragrance. We continued our road for about half a mile, interspersed through an open grove of live oaks, which, in form, were the most symmetrical and beautiful we had yet seen in this country. The ends of their branches rested on the ground, forming somewhat more than a half sphere of very full and regular figure, with leaves apparently smaller than usual. The Californian poppy, of a rich orange color, was numerous to-day. Elk ind several bands of antelope made their appearance. Oi|' road was now one continued enjoyment ; and it was pleasant, riding among this assemblage of green pastures with varied flowers and scattered groves, and out of the warns green spring, to look at the rocky and snowy peaks where lately we had suffered so much. Emerging from the timber, we came suddenly upon the Stanislaus river, where we hoped to find a ford, but the stream was flowing by, dark and deep, swollen by the moun- tain snows; its general breadth was about 50 yards. We travelled about five miles up the river, and encamped without being able to find a ford. Here we made a large coral, in order to be able to catch a sufficient number of our wild animals to relieve those previously packed. Under the shade of the oaks, along the river, I noticed erodium cicuta' nvm in bloom, eight or ten inches high. This is the plant which we had \'' n i C 174] 230 !J .:■ ril ■■ sren the squaws gathering on the Rio de los Americanos. By the inhabit- ants* of the valley, it is highly esteemed for fattening cattle, wliicli appejf to he very fond of it. Here, where the soil begins to be sandy, it suupliei to a considerable extent the want of grass. Desirous, as far as possible, without delay, to include in our examination the San Joaquin river, I returned this morning down the Stanislaus for 17 miles, and again encamped without having found a fording place. After following it for 8 miles further the next morning, and finding uuiselvei in the vicinity of the San Joaquin, •ticamped in a handsome oak grove and several cattle beingkilled, we ferried over our baggage in their skins. Here our tndian boy, who probably had not much idea of where he was going, and began to be alarmed at the many streams which we were rapidly put- ting between him and the village, deserted. Thirteen head of cattle took a sudden fright, while we were driving them across the river, and galloped off. I remained a day in the endeavor to recover them ; but, finding they had taken the trail back to the fort, let them go without further effort. Here we had several days of warm and pleasant rain, which doubtless saved the orops below. , On the Ist of April, we made 10 miles across tx prairie without 'imbar, when we were stopped again by another large river, which is called the jRto de la Merced, (river of our Lady of Mercy.) Here the countryhad lost its character of extreme fertility, the soil having become more sandj and light ; but, for several days past, its beauty had been increased by the additional animation of animal life ; and now, it is crowded with bauds of elk and wild horses ; and along the rivers are frequent fresh tracks ot griz- zly bear, which are unusually numerous in this country. Our route had been along the timber of the San Joaquin, generally about 8 miles distant, over a high prairie. In one of the bands of elk seen to-day, there were about 200; but the larger bands, both of these and wild horses, are generally found on the sther side of the river, which, for that reason, I avoided crossing. I had been informed below, that the droves of wild horses were almost invariably found on the western bank of the river ; and the danger of losing our animali among them, together with the wish of adding to our reconnoissance the numerous streams which run down from the Sierra, decided me to travel up the eastern hank. April 2. — The day was occupied in building a boat, and ferrying our baggage across the river ; and we encamped on the bank. A large fishing eagle, with white head and tail, was slowly sailing along, looking aftersal- men ; and there were some pretty birds i.y the timber, with partridgei, ducks, and geese innumerable in the neighborhood. We were struck with the tameness of the latter bird at Helvetia, scattered about in flocks near the wheat 6elds, and eating grass on the prairie ; a horseman would ride by within 30 yards, without disturbing them. April 3. — To-day we touched several times the San Joaquin river— here a fine-looking tranquil stream, with a slight current, and apparently deep. It resembled the Missouri in color, with occasional points of white sand; and its banks, where steep, were a kind of sandy clay ; its average width appeared to be about eighty yards. In the bottoms are frequent ponda, where our apptoach disturbed multitudes of wild fowl, principally geese. Skirling along the timber, we frequently started elk ; and large bands were seen during the day, with antelope and wild horses. The low country and 251 [ 174] , generally about timber rendered it difficult to knep (he main line of the river ; and this [riniug we encamped or. a tributary stream, about five miles from its outli. On the prairie borucring the San Joaquin bottoms, there occurred luring the day but little grass, and in its place was a sparst and dwarf bwth of pUnta ; the soil being sandy, with small bare places and hillocks, jaiinded me much of the Platte bottoms ; but, on approaching (he timber, be found a more luxuriant vegetation ; and at our camp was an abundance j;r»83and pea vines. The foliage of the oak is getting darker ; and every thing, except that the Leather is a little cool, shows that spring is rapidly advancing ; and to-daj ^e bad quite a summer rain. April 1. — Commenced to rain at daylight, but cleared off brightly at sun- lie, We ferried the river without any difficulty, and continued up the San oaquin. Elk were running in bands over the prairie and in the skirt of tit! timber. We reached the river again at the mouth of a large slough, wc were unable to ford, and made a circuit of several miles around. Jere the rountry appears vnry flat ; oak trees have entirely disappeared, ndare replaced by a large willow, nearly equal to it in size. The river is bout a hundred yards in breadth, branching into sloughs, and interspersed jrith islands. At this time it appears sufficiently deep for a small steamer, fut ill navigation would be broken by shallows at low water. Bearing in owards the river, we were again forced off by another slough ; and, pass- Dg around, steered towards a clump of trees on the river, and, finding here good grass, encamped. The prairies along the left bank are alive Kith immense droves of wild horses ; and they had been seen during the [ij at every opening through the woods which afforded us a view across lie river. Latitude, by observation, 37° 08' 00" ; longitude 120° 45' 22." April 5. — During the earlier part of the day's ride, the country presented [lacustrine appearance ; the river was deep, and nearly on a level with the rrounding country ; its banks raised like a levee, and fringed with wil- pffi. Over the bordering plain were interspersed spots of prairie among leldsof tuU (bulrushes,) which in this country are called tulares^ and lit- fe ponds. On the opposite side, a line of timber was visible, which, ac- ording to information, points out the course of the slough, which, at times lfliighwater,connects with the San Joaquin river — a large body of water in lie upper part of the valley, called the Tule lakes. The river aod all its loughs are very full, and it is probable that the lake is now discharging. Here elk were frequently started, and one was shot out of a band which ran jround us. On our left, the Sierra maintains its snowy height, and masses fsnow appear to descend very low towards the plains ; probably the late lins in the valley were snow on the mountains. We travelled 37 miles, Ind encamped on the river. Longitude of the camp, 120° 28' 34", and >|itude 36° 49' 12". April Q, — After having travelled 15 miles along the river, we made an wly halt, under the shade of sycamore trees. Here we found the San Poaquln coming down from the Sierra with a westerly course, and check- fig our way, as all its tributaries had previously done. We had expected iraltthe river; but found a good ford, and encamped on the opposite bank, ljuere droves of wild horses were raivsing clouds of dust on the praiiie. polumns of smoke were visible in the direction of the Tul6 lakes to the Duthward — probably kindled in the tulares by ihe Indians, as signals that tore were strangers in the valley. |i ' i'i I I , k' m t 11' |K jlli m I i [ 174 ] 252 We made, on the 7th, a hard march In a cold chilly rain from tnornig until night — the weather so thick that we travelled by compass. Thisi a traverse from the San Joaquin to the waters of the Tul6 lakes, and road was over a very level prairie country. We saw wolves frenuenl during the day, prowling about after the young antelope, which cannot rj very fast. These were numerous during the day, and two were caughtl the people. Late in the afteruuon we diacovjred timber, which was found to groves of oak trees on a dry arroyo. The rain, which had fallen in fr^ quent showers, poured down in a storm at sunset, with a strong win] which swept ofT the clouds, and left a clear sky. Riding on through ii timber, about dark we found abundant water in small ponds, 20 lo30yari in diameter, with clear deep water and sandy bods, bordered with bi rushes (j uncus effusus^) and a tall rush (scirpus lacustris) 12 feet higH and sui rounded near the margin with willow trees in bloom ; among the( one which resembled salix myricoides. The oak of the groves was lU same already mentioned, with small leaves, in form like those of thewhiN oak, and forming, with the evergreen oak, the characteristic trees of lb valley. April 3. — After a ride of two miles through brush and open groves, reached a large stream, called the River of the Lake, resembling in size th San Joaquin, and being about 100 yards broad. This is the principal trii utary to the Tul6 lakes, which collect all the waters in tho upper part the valley. While we were searching for a ford, some Indians appearedii the opposite bank, and, having discovered that we were not Spanish sd diers, showed us the way to a good ford several miles above. The Indians of the Sierra make frequent descents upon the settlemeDJ west of the Coast Range, which they keep constantly swept of horsei among them are many who are called Christian Indians, being refuge^ from Spanish missions. Several of these incursions occurred while were at Helvetia. Occasionally parties of soldiers follow them across tlj Coast Range, but never enter the Sierra. On the opposite side we found some forty or fifty Indians, who had coa to meet us from the village below. We made them some small presentj and invited them to accompany us to our encampment, which, after three miles through fine oak groves, we made on the river. We made] fort, principally on account of our animals. The Indians brought ottj skins, and several kinds of fish, and bread made of acorns, to trade. Amoa them were several who had come to live among these Indians when (n missions were broken up, and who spoke Spanish fluently. Theyinford us that they were called by the Spaniards mansitos, (tame,) in distinctid from the wilder tribes of the mountains. They, however, think theraselrl very insecure, not knowing at what unforeseen moment the sins of ti latter may be visited on them. They are dark-skinned, but handsomeao intelligent Indians, and live principally on acorns and the roots of the tul of which also their huts are made. I By observation, the latitude of the encampment is 36° 24' 50 ", andloj gitude n9°41'40". April 9. — For several miles we had very bad travelling over what! called rotten ground, in which the horses were frequently up to their knerf Making towards a line of timber, we found a small fordable stream, beyofl which the country improved, and the grass became excellent ; and, ctom JO 24' 50",andloj 253 [ 174] BOBibfrof dry and timbered rrroyos^ we travelled until late through open knovei, and encamped uiiiong a collection of streams. These were Aj among rushes and willows; and, as usual, flocks of blackbirds nounccd our approach to water. We have here approache«^Mce at an open bottom where the creek forked, we cootimr !* '.I 255 resentalion,\vhiih( C 174 J op the right-hand branch, which was enriched by a profusion of flowers, ind handsomely wooded with sycamore, oak«,cottonwood, and willow, with other trees, and some shrubby plants. In its long strings of balls, (his mamore differs from that of the United States, and is the platanus occi- ientalis of Hooker — a new species, recently described among (he plants collected in the voyage of the Suljjhur. The cottonwood varied its foliage with white tufts, and (he feathery seeds were flyirig plentifully through the lir. Goosebtrries, nearly ripe, were v y abundant on the mountain ; and ig we passed llie dividing grounds, whuli were not very easy to ascertain, the air was filled with pet fume, as if we were entering a highly cultivated eardeniaiid, instead of green, our pathway and the mountain sides were covefed with fields of yellow floweis, which here was the prevailing color. Our journey to-day was in the midst of an advanced spring, whose green and floral beauty offered a delightlul contrast to the sandy valley we had just left. All the day, snow was in sight on the butt of the mountain, which frowned down upon us on the right ; but we beheld it now with feelings of pleasant security, as we rode along between green trees and on Bowels', fkiih huaiming birds and otlier feathered friends of the traveller enlivening the serene spring air. As we reached the summit of this beautiful pass, and obtained a view into the eastern country, we saw at once that here was the place to take leave of all such pleasant scenes as those around us. The distant mountains were now bald rocks again ; and behnv, the land had any color but green. Taking into consideration the nature of the Sierra Nevada, we found (his psjss an excellent one for horses ; and with a little labor, or perhaps with a more peifecl examination of the localities, it might be made sufficiently practicable for w.igims. Its latitude and lresenled, as I have alrca'tly stated, that the bay of San Fran- isco opened far into the interior, by some tiver coming down from the- asp ol the Uucky mountains, and upon which supposed stream the name flJio Buenaventura had been bestowed. Our observations of tiic Sierra Nevada, in the longdistance from the head of the Sacramento to the head f the San Juaquin, and of the valley below it, which collects all the waters f the San Francisco bay, show that this neither is no^ran be the case. rivet from the inteiiur does,or can, cross the Sierra Nevada — itsell innre "fly ih;in (he Ro( ky mountains; and as to the Buenaventura, the month f which g(^en on the coasi gave (he idea and the natnc of the reputed great ')^iil tirely unfit for drinking. Here we turned directly to the eastward, along the trail, which, from being seldom used, is almost imperceptible- and after travelling a few miles, our guide halted, and, pointing to the hardly visible trail, "agui es camino," said he, "no se pierde — va siempre." He jioinled out a black butte on the plain at the foot of the mountain, where we would find water to encamp at night ; and, giving him a yj^ent of knives and scarlet cloth, we shook hands and parted. He bore oHputh,andina day's ride would arrive at San Fernando, one of several missions in this part of California, where the country is so beautiful that it is considered a paradise, and the name of its principal town ( Puebla de los Angeles) would make it angelic. We continued on through a succession of valleys, and came into a most beautiful spot of flower fields: instead of green, the hills were purple and orange, with unbroken beds, into which each color was separately gathered. A pale straw color, with a bright yellow, the rich red orange of the poppy mingled with fields of purple, covered the spot with a floral beauty; and, on the border of the sandy deserts, seemed to invite the traveller to go no farther. Riding along through the perfumed air, we soon after entered a defile overgrown with the ominous urtemisia tridentata, which conducted us into a sandy plain covered more or less densely with forests of yucca. Having now the snowy ridge on our right, we continued our way towards a dark huile belonging to a low sierra in the plain, and which our guide had pointed out fc'- a landmark. Late in the day the familiar growth of Cottonwood, a line of which was visible ahead, indicated our approach to a creek, which we reached where the water spread out into sands, and a little below sank entirely. Here our guide had intended we should pass the night; but there was not a blade of grass, and, hoping to find nearer the mountain a little for the night, we turned up the stream. A hundred yards above, we found the creek a fine stream, 16 feet wide, with a swift current. A dark night overtook us when we reached the hills at the foot of the ridge, and we were obliged to encamp without grass; tying up what animals we could secure in the darkness, the greater part of the wild ones having free range for the night. Here the stream was two feet deep, swift and clear, issuing from p neighboring snow peak. A few miles before reaching this creek, we had crossed a broad dry river bed, which, nearer the hills, the hunters had found a bold and handsome stream. ^pril 18. — Some parties were engaged in hunting up the scattered horses, and others in searching for grass above ; both were successful, and late in the day we encamped'among some spring heads cf the river, in a hollow which was covered with only tolerably good grasses, the lower ground being entirely overgrown with large bunches of the coarse stiff grass, {carex sitchensis.) Our latitude, by observation, was 34° 27' 03"; and longitude 117°13'00". Travelling close along (he mountain, we followed up, in the afternoon of the 19th, another stream, in hopes to find a grass patch like that of the previous day, but were deceived ; except some scattered bunch grass, there was nothing but rock and sand; and even the fertility of the mountain seemed withered by the air of the desert. Among the fevr trees was the nut pine, (pinus monophyllus.) Our road the next day was still in an easterly direction along the ridge, over very bad travelling ground, broken and confounded with crippled trees and shrubs; and, after a difficult march of 18 miles, a general shout 269 [ 174] announced that we had struck the great object of our search— the Spanish TBAiL— which here was running directly north. The road itself, and its course, were equally happy discoveries to us. Shice the middle of Decem- ber we had continually been forced south by mountains and by deserts, and ;jow would have to make six degrees of northing, to regain the latitude on which we wished to cross the Rocky mountains. The course of the road, therefore, was what we wanted; and, once more, we felt like going home- wards. A road to travel on, and the right course to go, were joyful con- solations to us ; and our animals enjoyed the beaten track like ourselves. Relieved from the rocks and brnsli, our wild mules started oflf at a rapid rate, and in 15 miles we reached a considerable river, timbered with cotton wood and willow, where we found a bottom of tolerable grass. As the animals hadsuffered a great deal in the last few days, I'remained here all next day, to allow them the necessary repose ; and it was now necessary, at every favorable place, to make a little halt. Between us and the Colorado river we were aware that the country was extremely poor in grass, and scarce for water, there being many Jornadas, (days' journey,) or long stretches of 40 to 60 miles, without water, where the road was marked by bones of animals. Although in California we had met with people who had passed over this trail, we had been able to obtain no correct information about it ; and the greater part of what we had heard was found to be only a tissue of false- hoods. The rivers that we found on it were never mentioned, and others, particularly described in name and locality, were subsequently seen in an- other part of the country. It was described as a tolerably good sandy road, with so little rock as scarcely to require the animals to be shod; and we found it the roughest and rockiest road we had ever seen in the country, and which nearly destroyed our band of fine mules and horses. Many an- imals are destroyed on it every year by a disease called the foot evil; and a traveller should never venture on it without having his animals well shod, and also carrying extra shoes. Latitude 34° 34' 11"; and longitude 117° 13' 00". The morning of the 22d was clear and bright, and a snowy peak to the southward shone out high and sharply defined. As has been usual since we crossed the mountains and descended into the hot plains, we had a gale of wind. We travelled down the right bank of the stream, over sands which are somewhat loose, and have no verdure, but are occupied by va- rious shurbs. A clear bold stream, 60 feet wide, and several feet deep, had a strange appearance, running between perfectly naked banks of sand. The eye, however, is somewhat relieved by willows, and the beautiful green of ihe sweet cottonwoods with which it is well wooded. As we followed along Its course, the river, instead of growing constantly larger, gradually dwin- dled away, as it was absorbed by the sand. We were now careful to take the old camping places of the annual Santa F6 caravans, which, luckily for us, had not yet made their yearly passage. A drove of several thousan ' horses and mules would entirely have swept away the scanty grass at the watering places, and we should have been obliged to leave the road to ob- tain subsistence for our animals. After riding 20 miles in a northeasterly direction, we found an old encampment, where we halted. By observation, the elevation of this encampment is 2,250 feet. April 2^. — The trail followed still along the river, which, in the course ofthe morning, entirely disappeared. We continued along the dry bed, JB which, after an interval of about 16 miles, the water reappeared in If I I •t :t \ lir i,: ■... Iv- ?.? yt ■:. \ \ »i •:: ; A mi ■i ■ .w t 174] 360 k.t ' lis sonjQ low places, well timbered with cottonwood and willow, where was another of the customary camping groimds. Here a party of six Indians came into camp, poor and hungry, and quite in keeping with the character of the country. Their arras were bows of unusual length, and each had a large gourd, strengthened with meshes of cord, in which he carried water They proved to be the Mohahve Indians mentioned by our recent guide" and from one of them, who spoke Spanish fluently, I obtained some inter' esting information, which I would be glad to introduce here. An account of the people inhabiting this region would undoubtedly possess interest for the civilized world. Our journey homeward was fruitful in incident; and the country through which we travelled, although a desert, afforded much to excite the curiosity of the botanist ; but limited time, and the rapidly ad- vancing season for active operations, oblige me to omit all extended de- scriptions, and hurry briefly to the conclusion of this report. The Indian who spoke Spanish had been educated for a number of years at one of the Spanish missions, and, at the breaking up of those establish- ments, had returned to the mountains, where he had been found by a party of Mohahve (sometimes called *dmuchaba) Indians, among whom he had ever since resided. He spoke of the leader of the present party as " mi amo" (my master,] He said they lived upon a large river in the southeast, which the "soldiers called the Rio Colorado;" but that, formerly, a portion of them lived upon this river, and among the mountains which had bounded the river valley to the northward during thi day, and that here along the river they had raised various kinds of melons. They sometimes came over to trade with the Indians of the Sierra, bringing with them blankets and goods manufac- tured by the Monquis and other Colorado Indians. They rarely carried home horses, on account of the difliculty of getting them across the desert, and of guarding them afterwards from the Pa-utah Indians, who inhabit the Sierra, at the head of the Rio Virgen, (river of the Virgin.) He informed us that, a short distance below, this river finally disappear- ed. The two different portions in which water is found had received from the priests two different names; and subsequently I heard it called by the Spaniards the Rio de las ,^nimas, but on the map we have called it the Mohahve river. ^Ipfil 24. — We continued down the stream (or rather its bed) for about eight miles, where there was water still in several holes, and encamped, The cEiravans sometimes continue below, to the end of the river, from which there is a very long Jornada of perhaps sixty miles, without water. Here a sir\gular and new species of acacia, with spiral pods or seed vessels, made its first appearance ; becoming henceforward, for a considerable distance, a characteristic tree. It was here comparatively large, being about 20 feet in height, with a full and spreading top, the lower branches declining to- wards the ground. It afterwards occurred of smaller size, frequently in groves, and is "ery fragrant. It has been called by Dr. Torrey spirolobim odoralum. The zygophyllaceous shrub had been constantly characteristic of the plains along the river; and here, among many new plants, anew and very remarkable species of eriogonum {eriogonum inflatum, Torr. & Frem.) made its first appearance. Our cattle had become so tired and poor by this fatiguing travelling, that three of them were killed here, and the meat dried. The Indians had now an occasion for a great feast, and were occupied the remainder of the day t261 [ 174 3 and all the night in cooking and eating. There was no part of the animal forxrhich they did not find some use, except the bones. In the afternoon ve were surprised by the sudden appearance in the camp of two Mexi- cans— a man and a boy. Irhe name of the man was Jindrem Fuentes ; and that of the boy, (a handsome lad, 1 1 years old,) Pablo Hernandez. They belonged to a party consisting of six persons, the remaining four being the wife of Fuentes, the father and mother of Pablo, and Santiago Giacome, a resident of New Mexico. With a cavalcade of about thirty horses, they had come out from Puebla de los Angeles, near the coast, nnder the guidance of Giacome, in advance of the great caravan, in order to travel more at leisure, and obtain better grass. Having advanced as far into the desert as was considered consistent with their safety, they halted at the ^rchiletie, one of the customary camping grounds, about 80 miles fiom our encampment, where there is a spring of good water, with suffi- cient grass ; and concluded to await there the arrival of the great caravan. Several Indians were soon discovered lurking about the camp, who, in a day or two after, came in, and, after behaving in a very friendly manner, took their leave, without awakening any suspicions. Their deportment begat a security which proved fatal. In a few days afterwards, suddenly a party of about one hundred Indians appeared in sight, advancing to- wards the camp. It was too late, or they seemed not to have presence of mind to take proper measures of safety ; and the Indians charged down into their camp, shouting as they advanced, and discharging flights of arrows. Pablo and Fuentes were on horse guard at the time, and mounted, accord- ing to the custom of the country. One of the principal objects of the In- dians was to get p'^ssession of the horses, and part of them immediately surrounded the band; but, in obedience to the shouts of Giacome, FUentes drove the animals over and through the assailants, in spite of their arrows ; and, abandoning the rest to their fate, cstrried them off at speed across the plain. Knowing that they would be pursued by the Indians, without making any halt except to shift their saddles to other horses, they drove them on forabout sixty miles, and this morning left them at a watering place on the trail, called Aguade Tomaso. Without giving themselves any time for Test,the;y hurried on, hoping to nieet the Spanish caravan, when they discov- ered my camp, 1 received them kmdly, taking them into my own mess, and promised them such aid as circumstances might put it in my power to give. dpril 25. — We left the river abruptly, and, turning to the north, regained in a few miles the main trail, (which had left the river sooner than our- selves,) and continued our way across a lower ridge of the mountain, through a miserable tract of sand and gravel. We crossed at intervals the broad beds of dry gullies, where in the season of rains and melting snows there would be brooks or rivulets ; and at one of these, where there was no indication of water, were several freshly-dug holes, in which there was water at the depth of two feet. These holes had been dug by the wolves, whose keen sense of smell had scented the water under the dry sand. They were nice little wells, narrow, and dug straigbi down, and we got pleasant water out of them. The country had now assumed the character of an elevated and moun- tainous desert ; its general features being black, rocky ridges, bald, and destitute of timber, with sandy basins between. Where the sides of these ridges are washed by gullies, the plains below are strewed with beds of large pebbles or rolled stones, destructive to our soft-footed animals, accus- r L ! - f,;.; II n I I. '' i t. I.., C 174] 263 i ii tomed to the grassy plains of the Sacramento valley. Through these sandy basins sometimes struggled a scanty stream, or occurred a hole of water, which furnished camping grounds for travellers. Frequently in our journey across, snow was visible on the surrounding mountains ; but their waters rarely reached the sandy plain below, where we toiled along, op. pressed with thirst and a burning sun. But, throughout this nakedness of sand and gravel, were many beautiful plants and flowering shrubs which occurred in many new species, and with greater variety than we had been accustomed to see in the most luxuriant prairie countries • this was a peculiarity of this desert. Even where no grass would take root the naked sand would bloom with some rich and rare flower, which found its appropriate home in the arid and barren spot. Scattered over the plain, and tolerably abundant, was a handsome legu- minous shrub, three or four feet high, with fine bright-purple flowers. It is a new psoralen, and occurred frequently henceforward along our road. Beyond the first ridge, our road bore a little to the east of north, to- wards a gap in a higher line of mountains ; and, after travelling about twenty-five miles, we arrived at the jigua de Tomaso — the spring where the horses had been left ; but, as we expected, they were gone. A brief examination cf the ground convinced us that they had been driven oflf by the Indians. Carson and Godey volunteered with the Mexican to pursue them; and, well mounted, the three set oflf on the trail. At this stopping place there were a few bushes and very little grass. Its water was a pool; but near by was a spring, which had been dug out by Indians or travel- lers. Its water was cool — a great refreshment to us under a burning sun. In the evening Fuentes returned, his horse having failed ; but Carson and Godey had continued the pursuit. I observed to-night an occultation of a^ Cancri, at the dark limb of the moon, which gives for the longitude of the place 116° 23' 28" ; the lati- tude, by observation, is 35° 13' 08". From Helvetia to this place, the po- sitions along the intervening line are laid down with the longitudes ob- tained from the chronometer, which appears to have retained its rate re- markably well ; but hehceforward, to the end of the journey, the few lon- gitudes given are absolute, depending upon a subsequent occultation and eclipses of the satellites. In the afternoon of the next day, a war-whoop was heard, such as In- dians make when returning from a victorious enterprise ; and soon Carson anil Godey appeared, driving before them a band of horses, recognised by Fuentes to be part of those they had lost. Two bloody scalps, dangling from the end of Godey's gun, announced that they had overtaken the In- dians as well as the horses. They informed us, that after Fuentes left them, from the failure of his horse, they continued the pursuit alone, and towards nightfall entered the mountains, into which the trail led. After sunset the moon gave light, and they followed the trail by moonshine until late in the night, when it entered a narrow defile, and was diflicult to follow. Afraid of losing it in the darkness of the defile, they tied up their horses, struck no fire, and lay down to sleep in silence and in darkness. Here they lay from midnight till morning. At daylight they resumed the pursuit, and about sunrise discovered the horses; and, immediately dismounting and tying up their own, they crept cautiously to a rising ground which intervened, from the crest of which they perceived the encampment of four lodges close by They proceeded quietly, and had got within thirty or forty yards of their ob 263 C 174] ject, . when a movement among the horses discovered them to the Indians; nvl'ng the war shout, they instantly charged into the camp, regardless of the number which the four lodges would imply. The Indians received them vith a flight o( arrows shot from their long bows, one of which passed through Godey's shirt collar, barely missing the neck ; our men fired their rifles upon a steady aim, and rushed in. T'.vo Indians were stretched on the ground, fatally pierced with bullets ; the rest fled, except a lad that was captured. The scalps of the fallen were instantly stripped off; but in the process, one of them, who had two balls through his body, sprung to his feet the blood streaming from his skinned head, and uttering a hideous howl. An old squaw, possibly his mother, stopped and looked back from the mountain side she was climbing, threatening and lamenting. The frightful spectacle appalled the stout hearts of our men ; but they did what humanity required, and quickly terminated the agonies of the gory savage. They were now masters of the camp, which was a pretty little recess in the* mountain, with a fine spring; and apparently safe from all invasion. Great preparations had been made to > Y*st a large party, for it was a very proper place for a rendezvous, and for the Celebration of such orgies as robbers of the desert would delight in. Several of the best horses had been killed, skinned, and cut up ; for the Indians living in mountains, and only coming into the plains to rob and murder, make no other use of horses than to eat them. Large earthen vessels were on the fire, boiling and stewing the horse beef; and several baskets, containing fifty or sixty pairs of moccasins, indicated the presence,or expectation, of a considerable party. They released the boy, who had given strong evidence of the stoicism, or something else, of the savage character, in commencing his breakfast upon a horse's head as soon AS he found ho was not to be killed, but only #Bd as a prisoner. Their object accomplished, our men gathered up all the surviving horses, fifteen in number, returned upon their trail, and rejoined us at our camp in the afternoon of the same day. They had rode about one hundred miles in the pursuit and return, and all in thirty hours. The time, place, object; and numbers, considered, this expedition of Carson and Godey may be con- sidered among the boldest and most disinterested which the annals of western adventure, so full of daring deeds, can present. Two men, in a savage des- ert, pursue day and night an unknown body of Indians into the defiles of an unknown mountain — attack them on sight, without counting numbers — and defeat them in an instant — and for what ? To punish the robbers of the desert, and to avenge the wrongs of Mexicans whom they did not know. I repeat: it was Carson and Godey who did this — the former an ^mefican, born in the Boonslick county of Missouri ; the latter a Frenchman, born in St. Louis — and both trained to western enterprise from early life. By the information of Fuentes, we had now to make a long stretch of forty or fifty miles across a plain which lay between us and the next pof'' biecarap; and we resumed our journey late in the afternoon, with the in tention of travelling through the night, and avoiding the excessive heat of the day, which "was oppressive to our animals. For several hours we trav- elled across a high plain, passing, at the opposite side, through a cailon by the bed of a creek running northtoardly into a small lake beyond, and both of them being dry. We had a warm, moooshiny night ; and, travelling di- rectly towards the north star, we journeyed now across an open plain be- tween mountain riiiges ; that on the left being broken, rocky, and bald, ac- cording to the information of Carson and Godey, who had entered here in [ '74 ] 264 ■it. i , i pursuit of the horses. The plain appeared covered principally with the :t/i,o.\ phi Hum Californicum already mentioned ; and the line of our road was 'ma.-ked by the skeletons of horses, which were strewed to a considerable breadth over t!ie plain. Wo were afterwards always warned, on entering one of tliese long stretches, by the bones of these animals, which had perished before they could ren ' tne water. About midnight we reached a consider. able stream bed, nou , the discharge of the waters of this basin, (when it collected any,) dowr, lich we descended in a northwesterly direction. The creek bed was overgrown with shrubbery, and several hours before day it brought us to the entrance of a cafion, where we found water, and encamped. This word cai^on is used by the Spaniards to signify a defile or gorge in a creek or river, where high rocks press in close, and raakeal narrow way, usually difficult, and often impossible to be passed. In the morning we found that we had a very poor camping ground: ai swampy, salty spot, with a little long, unwholesome grass ; and the water, whicii rose in springs, being useful only to wet the mouth, but entirely too salt to drink. All around was sand, and rocks, and skeletons of horses which had not been able to find support for their lives. As we were i to start, we found, at the distance of a few hundred yards, among thehillsl to the southward, a spring of tolerably good water, which was a relief to ourselves; but the place was too poor to remain long, and therefore we continued on this morning. On the creek were ihxckeXs oi spirolohmm\ odoratum (acacia) in bloom, and very fragrant. Passing through the caRon, we entered another sandy basin, through] ivhich the dry stream bed continued its northwesterly course, in which di- rection appeared a high snowy mountain. We travelled through a barren district, where a heavy gale was blowing] about the loose sand, and, after a ride of eight miles, reached a large creek of salt and bitter water, running in a westerly direction, to receive the stre;am bed we had left. It is called by the Spaniards Amargosa — the bitter water of the desert. Where we struck it, the stream bends; and we continued in a northerly course up the ravine of its valley, passing on the way a fork] from the right, near which occurred a bed of plants, consisting of a remark- able new genii", of cruet ferse. Gradually asce, ding, the ravine opened into a green valley, where, at | the foot of the ii auntain, were springs of excellent water. We encac among groves of the new acacia, and there was an abundance of grass for the animals. This was the best camping ground we had seen since we struck the! Spanish trail. The day's journey was about 12 miles. Jiprit 29. — To-day we had to reach the Archiktte, distant seven miles, where the Mexican party had been attacked; and, leaving our encainp- raent early, we traversed a part of the desert, the most sterile and repulsive that we had yet seen. Its prominent features were dark sierras, naked and dry ; on the plains a few straggling shrubs — among them, cactus of several varieties. Fuentes pointed out one called by the Spaniards bisnada,vh\&. has a juicy pulp, slightly acid, and is eaten by the traveller to allay thirst. Our course was generally north; and, after crossing an intervening ridge, we descended into a sandy plain, or basin, in the middle of which was the grassy spot, with its springs and willow bushes, which constitutes a camp- ing place in the desert, and is called the Archilette. The dead silence ol the place was ominous; and, galloping rapidly up, we found only the i If e we struck the 265 [ 174 J corpees of the two men : every thing else was gone. They were naked, mutilated, and pierced with arrows. Ifernandez had evidently fought, and vjth desperation. He lay in advance of the willow half-faced tent, which jheltered his family, as if ho had come out to meet danger, and to repulse it, from that asylum. One of his hands, and both his legs, had been cut off, Giacome, who was a large and str ng-looking man, was lying in one of the willow shelters, pierced with arrows. Of the women no trace could be found, and it was evident they had been carried off captive. A little lap-dog, which hrfd belonged to Pablo's mother, remained with the dead bodies, and was frantic with joy at seeing Pablo : he, poor child, was frantic with grief ; and filled the air with lamentations for his father and mother. Mi padre! Mimadref — was his incessant cry. When we beheld this pitiable sight, and pictured to ourselves the fate of the two women, carried off by savages so brutal and so loathsome, all compunction for the scalped- alive Indian ceased ; and we rejoiced that Carson and Godey had been abk; to give so useful a lesson to these American Ai;^bs, who lie in wait to murder and plunder the innocent traveller. We were all too much affected by the sad feelings which the place in- jpired, to remain an unnecesary moment. The night we wore obliged to puss there. Early in the morning wo left it, having first written a brief account of what had happened, and put it in the cleft of a pole planted at the spring, that the approaching caravan might learn the fate of their friends. In commemoration of the event, we called the place ^gua de Hernandez — Hernandez's spring. By observation, its latitude was 35° 51' 21". ^pril 30 — We continued our journey over a district similar to that of the day before. From the sandy basin, in which was the spring, we entered another basin of the same character, surrounded ev(Jty where by moun- tains. Before- us stretche I a high range, rising still higher to the leftj and terminating in a snowy mountain. After a day's march of 24 miles, we reached at evening the bed of a stream from which the water had disappeared ; a little only remained in holes, which we increased by digging ; and about a mile above, the stream, not yet entirely sunk, was spread out over the sands, affording a little water for the animals. The stream came out of the mountains on the left, very slightly wooded with cottonwood, willow, and acacia,and a few dwarf oaks; and grass was nearly as scarce as water. A plant with showy yellow hvi&x% [Stanley a integrifolia) occurred abundantly at intervals for the last two days, and eriogonum inflalum was among the characteristic plants. May 1. — The air is rough, and overcoats pleasant. The sky is blue, and the day bright. Our road was over a plain, towards the foot of the moun- tain; zygophyllum Cali/ornicum, now in bloom with a small yellow flower, is characteristic of the country ; and cacti were very abundant, and in rich fresh bloom, which wonderfully orrraments this poor country. We encamped at a spring in the pass, which had been the site of an old village. Here we found excellent grass, but very little water. We dug out the old spring, and watered some of our animals. The mountain here was wooded very slightly with the liUt pine, cedars, and a dwarf species of oak ; and among the shrubs were Purshia tridenfata, artemisia, and ephedra occi- dintulis. The numerous shrubs which constitute the vegetation of the plains are now in bloom, with flowers of white, yellow, red, and purple. The continual rocks, and want of water and grass, begin to be very hard on our mules and horses; but the principal loss is occasioned by their crippled ; V I J I! I ■"■?:* •' ■yr: Jt ■t i 1^ I M{^ f : C 1-4] 266 J!( i'i feet, the greater part o( those left being in excellent order, and scarcely a day passes without some loss ; and, one by one, Pueittes's horses are con- stantly dropi>ing behind. Whenever they give out, hu dismounts and cms of tiieir tails and manes, to make saddle girths ; the last advantage one can gain from them. The next day, in a short but rough ride of 12 miles, we crossed the mountain; and, descending to a small valley plain, encamped at the fool of the ridge, on the bed of a creek, where we found good grass in sufUcient quantity, and abundance of water in holes. The ridge is extremely rugged and broken, presenting on this side a continued precipice, and probably affords very few passes. Many digger tracks are seen around us, but no Indians were visible. May 3. — After a day's journey of 18 miles, in a northeasterly direction, we encamped in the midst of another very large basm, at a camping ground oalled las Vegaa — a term which the Spaniards use to signify fertile or marshy plains, in contradistinction to llanos, which they apply to dry and sterile plains. Two narrow streams of clear water, four or five leet deep, gush suddenly, with a quick current, from two singularly large springs; these, and other waters of the basin, pass out in a gap to the eastward. The taste of the water is good, but rather too warm to be agreeable ; the temperature being 71° in the one, and 73° in the other. They, however, afforded a delightful bathing place. May 4. — We started this morning earlier than usual, travelling in a north- easterly direction across the plain. The new acacia {spirolobium odoratuvx) has now become the characteristic tree of the country ; it is in bloom, and its blossoms are very fragrant. The day was still, and the heat, which soon became very fjppressive, appeared to bring out strongly the refreshing scent of the zygophyllaceous shrubs and the sweet perfume of the acacia. The snowy ridge we had just crossed looked out conspicuously in the northwest. In about five hours' ride, we crossed a gap in the surrounding, ridge, and the appearance of skeletons of horses very soon warned us that we were engaged in another dry Jornada, which proved the longest we had made in all our journey — between fifty and sixty miles without a drop of water. Travellers through countries affording water and timber can have no conception of our intolerable thirst while journeying over the hot yellow sands of this elevated country, where the heated air seems to be entirely deprived of moisture. We ate occasionally the bisnada, and mo'stened our mouths with the acid of the sour dock, {rumex venosus.) Hourly ex- pecting to find water, we continued to press on until towards midnight, when, after a hard and uninterrupted march of 16 hours, our wild mules began running ahead ; and in a mile or two we came to a bold running stream — so keen is the sense of that animal, in these desert regions, in scenting at a distance this necessary of life. According to the information we had received, Sevier river was a tribu- tary of the Colorado ; and this, accordingly, should have been one of its aflluents. It proved to be the Bio de los Angeles (river of the Angels)— a branch of the Jiio Virgen (river of the Virgin.) May 5. — On account of our animals, it was necessary to remain to-day at this place. Indians crowded numerously around us in the morning; and we were obliged to keep arms in hand all day, to keep ihem out of the camp. They began to surround the horses, wliich, for the conve- 267 [ m] nience of grass, we were guarding a little above, on the river. Tliese wer« jnmediatt'ly driven in, and kupt close to the camp. In the darkness of the night we hud made a very bad encampiuent, our fires being commanded by a rocky bluff within 50 yards ; but, notwithstand- ing, we had the river and small thickets of willows on the other side. Several times during the day the camp was insulted by the Indians; but, peace being our object, I kept simply on the defensive. Some of the Indians were ou the bottoms, and others haranguing us frsm the bluffs ; and they were jcaitered in every direction over the hills. Their language being probably a dialect of the Utah, with tlie aid of sigHs some of our people could com- prehetid them very well. They were the same people who had murdered the Mexicans ; and towards us their disposition was evidently hostile, nor were we well disposed towards them. They were barefooted, and nearly- naked ; their hair gathered up into a knot behind ; and with his bow, each mail carried a quiver with thirty or forty arrows partially drawn out. Besides these, each held in his hand two or three arrows for instant service. Their arrows are barbed with a very clear translucent stone, a species of opal, nearly as hard as the diamond ; and, shot from their long- bow, are al- most as effective as a gunshot. In these Indians, I was forcibly struck by au expression of countenance resembling that in a beast of prey ; and all their actions are those of wild animals. Joined to the restless motion of the eye, there is a want of mind — an absence of thought — and an action wholly by impulse, strongly expressed, and which constantly recalls the similarity. *A man who appeared to be a chief, with two or three others, forced him- self into camp, bringing with him his arms, in spite of my orders to the contrary. When shown our weapons, he bored his ear with his fingers, and said he could not hear. " Why," said he, " there are nope of you." Count- ing the people around the camp, and Including in the number a mule which was being shod, he made out 22. « So many," said he, showing the number, "and we — we are a great many ;" and he pointed to the hills and mountains round about. " If you have your arras," said he, twanging his bow, " we have these." I had some difficulty in restraining the people, particularly Carson, who felt an insult of this kind as much as if it had been given by a more responsible being. " Don't say that, old man," said he; "don't you say that — your life's in danger" — speaking in good Eng- lish; and probably the old man was nearer to his end than he will be be- fore he meets it. Several animals had been necessarily left behind near the camp last night; and early in the morning, before the Indians made their appearance, several men were sent to bring them in. When I was beginning to be un- easy at their absence, they returned with information that they had been driven off from the trail by Indians ; and, having followed the tracks in a short distance, they found the animals cut up and spread oiit upon bushes. In the evening I gave a fatigued horse to some of the Indians for a feast ; and the village which carried him off refused to share with the others, who made loud complaints from the rocks of the partial distribution. Many of these Indians had long sticks, hooked at the end, which they used in haul- ing out lizards, and other small animals, from their holes. During the day they occasionally roasted and ate lizards at our fires. These belong to the people who are generally known under the name of Diggers ; and to these I have more particularly had reference when occasionally speaking of a people whose sole occupation is to procure food sufficient to support ex- ' ii ^ il ^ '-ii 1^!, W ( .^^.J*', C 174] 268 ',! i '(:'?9u I i istence. The formation here consists of fine yellow sandstone, alternat- ing with a coarse conglomerate, in which the stones are from the size of crdinary gravel to six or eight inches in diameter. This is the formation which renders' the surface of the country so Focky, and gives us now a road alternately of loose heavy sands and rolled stones, which cripple the ani- mals in a most extraordinary raatiner. On the following morning we left the Rio die hs Angeles, and continued our way through the same desolate and revolting country, where lizards were the only animal, and the tracks of the lizard eaters the principal sign of human beings. After twenty miles' march through a road of hills and 'heavy sands, we reached the most dreary river I have ever seen— a deep rapid stream, almost a torrent, passing swiftly by, and roaring against ob- structions. The banks were wooded with willow, acacia, and a frequent iplant of the country already mentioned, {Oarrya elliptica,) growing in thickets, resembling willow, and bearing a small pink flower. Crossing it, weencamped on the leffbank, where we found a very little grass. Our three remaining steers, being entirely given out, were killed here. By the boiling point, the elevation of the river here is 4,060 feet; and latitude, by . observation, 3^P 41 ' 33". The stream was running towards the southwest, and appeared to come from a snowy mountain in the north. It proved to be the Bio Virgen — a tribuiary to the Colorado. Indians appeared in bands on (he hills, but did not come into camp. For several days we continued our journey up the river, the bottoms of which were thickly overgrown with various kinds of brush; and the sandy soil was absolutely covered with the tracks of Diggers^ who followed us stealthily, like a band of wolves; and we had no opportunity to leave behind, even for a few hours, the tired animals^ order that they might be brought into camp after a Utile repose. A horse or mule, left behind, was taken off in a moment. On the evening of the 8th, having travelled 28 miles up the river from out first encampment on it, Wf encamped at a little grass plat, where a spring of cool water issued from the bluff. On the opposite side was a grove ot cotton woods at the mouth of a fork, which here enters the river. On either side the valley is bounded by ranges of mountains, every where high, rocky, and broken. The caravan roacj was lost and scattered in the sandy country^ and we had been following an Indian trail up the river. The hunters the next day were sent out to reconnoitre, and in the mean time we moved about a mile farther up, where we found a good little patch ot grass. There being only sufficient grass for the night, the horses were sent with a strong guard in charge of Tabeau to a neighboritig hollow, where they might pasture during the day ; and, to be ready incase the In- dians should make any attempt on the animals, several of the best horses were picketed ^t the camp. In a few hours the hunters returned, having found a convenient foiu in the fiver, and discovered the Spanish trail on the other side. I had been engaged in arranging plants ; and, fatigued with the heat of the day, I fell asleep in the afternoon, sxfA did not awake until sundown. Presently Carson came to me, and reported that Tabeau, who early in the day had left his post, and, without my knowledge, rode back to the camp we had left, in search of a lame mule, had not returned. While we were speaking, a smoke rose suddenly from the cottonwood grove below, which plainly told us what had befallen him ; it was raised to inform the sur- rounding Indians that a blow had been struck, and to tell them to be on 269 [ 174] their guard. Carson, with several men well mounted, was instantly sent. (jo^n the river, but returned in the night without tidings of the missing, man. They went to the camp we had left, but neither he nor the mule v^as there. Searching down the river, they found the tracks of the mule,, evidently driven along by Indians, whose tracks were on each side of those niade by the animal. Afteyr going several miles, they came to the mule it- self, staDdiog in some bushes, mortally wounded in the side by an arrow, and left to die, that it might be afterwards butchered for food. They also found, in another place, as they were hunting about on the ground for Ta- beau's tracks, something that looked like a little puddle of blood, but which the darkness prevented them from verifying. With these details they re-, turned to our camp, and their report saddened uU our hearts. May 10. — This morning, as soon as there was light enough to follow tracks, I set out myself, with Mr. Fitzpatrick and several men, in search of Tabeau. We went to the spot where the appearance of puddled blood had been seen ; and this, we saw at once, had been the place where he fell and died. Blood upon the leaves, and beaten down bushes,showed that he had got his wound about twenty paces from where he fell, and that he had strug- gled for his life. He had probably been shot through the lungs with an arrow. Tiom the place where he lay and bled, it could be seen that he had been dragged to the river bank, and thrown into it. No vestige of what had belonged to him could be found, except a. fragment of his horse equip- ment. Horse, gun, clothes — all became the prey of these Arabs of the New World. Tabeau had been one of our best men, and his unhappy death spread a gloom over our party. Men, who have gone through such dangers and sufferings as we had seon, become like brothers, and feel each other's loss. To defend and avenge each dther, is the deep feeling of all. We wished to avenge his death; biit the condition of our horses, languishing for grass and repose, forbade an expedition into unknown mountains. We knew the tribe who had done the mischief — the same which had been insulting our camp. They knew what they deserved, and had the discretion to show themselves to us no more. The day before, they infested our camp; now, not one appeared ; nor did we ever afterwards see but one who even be- longed 10 the same tribe, and he at a distance. Our camp was in a basin below a deep cailon — a gap of two thousand feet deep in the njountain — through which the Bio Virgen passes, and where no man or beast could follow it. The Spanish trail, which we had lost in the sands of the basin, was on the opposite side of the river. We crossed over to it, and followed it northwardly towards a gap which was visible in the mountain. We approached it by a defile, rendered difficult for our barefooted animals by the rocks strewed along it; and here the country changed its charactsr. From the time we entered the desert, the mountains had been bald and rocky ; here they began to be wooded with cedar and pine, and clusters of trees gave shelter to birds — a new and wel- come sight — which could not have lived in the desert we had passed. Descending a long hollow, towards the narrow valley of a stream, we saw before us a snowy mountain, far beyond which appeared another more lofly still. Good bunch grass began to appear on the hill sides, and here we found a singular variety of interesting shrubs. The changed appearance of the country infused among our people a more lively spirit, which was heig|[i|ien,?4 [ m] 270 I' 11 :l II -^ H^ by finding at evening a halting place of very good grass on the clear waters of the Santa Clara fork of the Rio Virgen. May W. — The morning was cloudy and quite cool, with a shower of rain — the first we have had since entering the desert, a period of twenty- seven days ; and we seem to have entered a different climate, with the usual weather of the Rocky mountains. Our march to-day was very laborious over very broken ground, along the Santa Clara river ; but then the conn- try is no longer so distressingly desolate. The stream is prettily wooded with sweet cotton wood trees— some of them of large size ; and on the hills where the nnt pine is often seen, a good and wholesome grass occurs fre- quently. This cottonwood, which is" now in fruit, is of a different species from any in Michaux's Sylva. Heavy dark clouds covered the sky in the evening, and a cold wind sprang up, making fires and overcoats comforta- ble. May 12. — A little above our encampment, the river forked ; and we con- tinued up the right-hand branch, gradually ascending towards the summit of the mountain. As we rose towards the head of tht creek, the snowy mountain on our right showed out handsomely — high and rugged with precipices, and covered with snow for about two thousand feet from their summits down. Our animals were somewhat repaid for their hard marches by an excellent camping ground on the summit of the ridge, which forms here the dividing chain between the waters of the Bin Firgen, which goes south to the Colorado, and those of Sevier river, flowing northwardly, and belonging to the Great Basin. We considered ourselves as crossing the rim of the basin; and, entering it at this point, we found here an exten- sive mountain meadow, rich in bunch grass, and fresh with numerous springs of clear water, all refreshing and delightful to look upon. It was, in fact, that las Vegas de Santa Clara, whiclniad been so long presented to us as the terminating point of the desert, and where the annual caravan from Califoyiia to New Mexico halted and recruited for some weeks. It was a very suitable place to recover from the fatigue and exhaustion of a month's suffering in the hot and sterile desert. The meadow was about a mile wide, and some ten miles long, bordered by grassy hills and moun- tains — some of the latter rising two thousand feet, and white with snow down to the level of the vegas. Its elevation above the sea was 5,280 feet; latitude, by observation, 37° 28' 28" ; and its distance from where we first struck the Spanish trail about four hundred miles. Counting from the time we reached the desert, and began to skirt, at our descent from Waller's Pass in the Sierra Nevada, we had travelled 550 miles, occupying t./en- ty-sevcn days, in that inhospitable region. In passing before the great caravan, we had the advantage of finding more grass, but the disadvantage of finding also the marauding savages, who had gathered down upon the trail, waiting the approach of that prey. This greatly increased our labors. besides costing us the life of an excellent man. We had to move all day in a state of watch, and prepared for combjat — scouts and flankers out, a front and rear division of our men, and baggage animals in the centre. At night, camp duty was severe. Those who had toiled all day, had to guard, by turns, the camp and the horses all night. Frequently ojie-third of the whole party were on guard at once ; and nothing but this vigilance saved us from attack. We were constantly dogged by bands,and even wholq tribes of the marauders ; and although Tabeau was killed, and our camp infested and in- sulted by some, while Swarms of them remained on the hills and mountain 271 C 174 J sides, there was manifestly a consultation and calculation going on, to decide the question of attacking us. Having reached the resting place of the f^e- m de Santa Clara, we had complete relief from the heat and privations of the desert, and some relaxation from the severity of camp duty. Some relaxation, and relaxation only — for camp guards, horse guards, and scouts, are indispensable from the time of leaving the frontiers of Missouri until we return to themt After we left the Vegas, we had the gratification to be joined by the fa- mous hunter and trapper, Mr. Joseph Walker, whom I have before men- tioned, and who now became our guide. He had left California with the great caravan ; and perceiving, from the signs along the trail, that there was a party of whites ahead, which he judged to be mine, he detached him- self from the caravan, with eight men, (Americans,) and ran the gauntlet jf the desert robbers, killing two, and getting some of the horses wounded, and succeeded in overtaking us. Nothing but his great knowledge of the country, great courage and presence of mind, and good rifles, could have brought him safe from such a perilous enterprise. May 13. — We remained one day at this noted place of rest and refresh- ment; and, resuming our progress in a northeastwardly direction, we de- scended into a broad valley, the water of which is tributary to Sevier lake. The next day we came in sight of the Wah-satch range of mountains on the right, white with snow, and here forming the southeast part of the Great Basin. Sevier lake, upon the waters of which we now were, belonged to the system of lakes in the eastern part of the Basin — of which, the Great Salt lake, and its southern limb, the Utah lake, were the principal — to- wards the region of which we were now approaching. We travelled for several days in this direction, within the rim of the Great Basin, crossing little streams which bore to the left for Sevier lake ; and plainly seeing, by the changed aspect of the country, that we were entirely clear of the desert, and approaching the regions which appertained to the system of the Rocky mountains. We met, in this traverse, a few mounted Utah Indians, in advance of their main body, watching the approach of the great caravan. May 16. — We reached a small salt lake, about seven miles long and one broad, at the northern extremity of which we encamped for the night. This little lake, which well merits its characteristic name, lies immediately at the base of the Wah-satch range, and nearly opposite a gap in that chain of mountains through which the Spanish trail passes; and which, again falling upon the waters of the Colorado, and crossing that river, proceeds over a mountainous country to Santa F6. May 17. — After 440 miles of travelling on a trail, which served for a road, we again found ourselves under the necessity of exploring a track through the wilderness. The Spanish trail had borne off to the southeast, crossing the Wah-satch range. Our course led to the northeast, along the foot of that range, and leaving it on the right. The mountain present- ed itself to us under the form of several ridges, rising one above the other, rocky, and wooded with pine and cedar; the last ridge covered wiih snow. Sevier river, flowing northwardly to the lake of the same name, collects its principal waters froui this section of the Wah-satch chain. We had now entered a region of great pastoral promise, abounding with tine streams, th^ rich bunch grass, soil that would produce wheat, and indiijenous flax growing as Pit had been sown. Consistent with the general character of its bordering mountains, this fertility of soil and vegetation does not extend » r :i ( np I y if 1- 'Vm'r I'i C 174 ] 272 ' 1 i far into the Great Basin. Mr. Joseph Walker, our guide, and who hag more knowledge of these parts than any man I know, informed me that all the country to the left was unknown to him, and that even the Digger tribes, which frequented Lake Sevier, could tell him nothing about it. May 20. — We met a band of Utah Indians, headed by a well-known chief, who had obtanied the American or English name of Walker, by which he is quoted and well known. They were all maunted, armed wiih rifles, and use their rifles well. The chief had a fusee, which he had car- rt«id slung, in addition to his rifle. They were journeying slowly iowards the Spanish trail, to levy their usual tribute upon the great Californian cara- van. They were robbers of a higher order than those of the desert. They conducted their depredations with form, and under the color of trade and toll for pasising through their country. Instead of attacking and killing, they affect to purchase — takuig the horses they like, and giving something nomi- nal in return. The chief was quite civil to me. He was personally ac- quainted with his namesake, our guide, who made my name known to him. He knew of my expedition of 1842; and, as tpkons of friendship, and proof that we hafi. met, proposed an interchange of presents. We had no great store to choose out of; so he gave me a Mexican blanket, and I gave him a very firfe one which I had obtained at Vancouver. May 23. — We reached Sevier river — the main tributary of the lake of the same name — which, deflecting from its northern course, here breaks from the mountains to enter the lake. It was really a fine river, from eight to twelve feet deep: and, after searching in vain for a fordable place, we "made little boats (or, rather, rafts) out of bulrushes, and ferried across. These rafts are readily made, and give a good conveyance across a river. The rushes are bound in bundles, and tied hard ; the bundles are tied dowr. upon poles, as close as they can be pressed, and fashioned like a boat, in being broader in the middle and pointed at the ends. The rushes, being tubular and jointed, are light and strong. The raft swims well, and is shoved along by poles, or paddled, or pushed and pulled by swimmers, or drawn by ropes. On this occasion, we used ropes, — one at each end — and rapidly drew our little float backw ards and'for wards, from shore to shore. The hors;3S swam. At our place of crossing, which was the most northern point of its bend, the latitude was 39° 22' 19". The banks sustained the character for fertility and vegetation which we had seen for some days. The name of this river and lake was an indication of our approach to regions of which our people had been the explorers. It was probably named after some American trap- per or hunter, and was the first American name we had met with since leaving the Columbia river. From the Dalles to the point where we turn- ed across the Sierra Nevada, near 1,000 miles, we hrard Indian names. and the greater part of the distance none; from Nueva Helvetia (Sacra- mento) to las Vegas de Santa Clara, about 1,000 more, all were Spanish; from the Mississippi to the Pacific, French and American or English were intermixed ; and this prevalence of names indicates the national charactei' of the first explorers. ^ We had here, the misfortune to lose one of our people, Francois Badeau, who had been with me in both expeditions ; during which he had always been one of my most faithful and efficient men. He was killed in drawing totvards him a gun by the muzzle ; the hammer being caught, discharged ' the gup, driving the ball through his head. We hurried hiriP)n the banks of the river. 273 C 174 ] i'i'li 'J! Crossing the next day a slight ridge along the river, we entered a hand- some mountain valley coveved with fine grass, and directed our course to- wards a high snowy peak, at the foot of which lay the Utah lake. On our right was a bed of high mountains, their summits covered withsno^v, constituting the dividing ridge between the Basin waters and those of the Colorado. At noon we fell in with a party of Utah Indians coming out of the mountain, and in the afternoon encamped on a tributary to the lake, which is separated from the waters of the Sevier by very slight dividing grounds. ' Early the next day we came in sight of the lake ; and, as we descended to the broad bottoms of the Spanish fork, three horsemen were seen gallop- ing towards us, who proved to be Utah Indians — scouts from a village, which was encamped near ihe mouth of the river. They were aimed with rifles, and their horses were in good condition. We encamped near them, on the Spanish fork, which is one of the principal tributaries to the lake. Finding the Indians troublesome, and desirous to remain hertj a day, we removed the next morning farther down the lake, and encamped on a fertile bottom near the foot of the same mountainous ridge which borders the Great Salt lake, and along which we had journeyed the previous Sep- tember. Here the principal plants in bloom were two, which were re- markable as aflfording to the Snake Indians — the one an abundant supply of food, and the other the most useful among the applications which they use for wounds. These were the kooyah plant, growing in fields of ex- traordinary luxuriance, and convollaria stellata, which, from the expe- rience of Mr. Walker, is the best remedial plant known among those In- dians. A few miles below us was another village of Indians, from which we obtained some fish — among them a few salmon trout, which were very much inferior in size to those along the Californian mountains. The sea- son for taking them had not yet arrived ; but the Indians were daily ex- pecting them to come up out of the lake. We had now accomplished an object we had in view when leaving the Dalles of the Columbia ia November last : we had reached the Utah lake; but by a route very different from what we had intended, and without suf- ficient time remaining to make the examinations which were desired. It K a lake of note in this country, under the dominion of the Utahs, who resort to it for fish. Its greatest breadth is about 15 miles, stretching far to the north, narrowing as it goes, and connecting with ihe Great Salt lake. This is the report, and which I believe to be correct ; but it is fresh water, while the other is not only salt, but a saturated solution of salt ; and here is a problem which requires to be solved. It is almost entirely surrounded by mountains, walled on the north and east by a high and snowy range, which supplies to it a fan of tributary streams. Among these, the principal river is the Timpan-ogo — signifying Rock river — a name which the rocky grandeur of its scenery, remarkable even in this country of rugged moun- tains, has obtained for it from the Indians. In the Utah language, og-wdh- b(, the term for river, when coupled with other words in common conver- sation, is usually abbreviated to ogo ; timpan signifying rock. It is probable that this river furr ihed the name which on the older maps has been gene- rally applied to the Great Salt lake ; but for this I have preferred a name which will be regarded as highly characteristic, restricting to the river the descriptivo term Timpan-ogo, and leaving for the lake into which it flows. 18 if* . !» I nt. !: C 174 ] 274 !: . !"J ■■;i tt ■ ri •1 ''Cs the name of the people who reside on iis shores, and by which itlsknowi; throughout the country. The volume of water afforded by the Timpan-ogo is probably equal to that of the Sevier river; and, at the time of our visit, tliere was only one place in the lake valley at which the Spanish fork was fordable. hi the cove of mountains along its eastern shore, the lake is bordered by a plain, where the soil is generally good, and in greater part fertile ; watered by a delta of prettily timbered streams. This would be an excellent locality for stock farms ; it is generally covered with good bunch grass, and wouid abundantly produce the ordinary grains. In arriving at the Utah lake, we had completed an immense circuit of twelve degrees diameter north and south, and ten degrees east and west: and found ourselves, in May, 1844, on the same sheet of water whiclnve had left in September, 1843. The Utah is the southern limb of the Great Salt lake ; and thus we had seen that remarkable sheet of water both at its northern and southern extremity, and were able to fix its position at these two points. The circuit which we had made, and which had cost us eight months of time, and 3,500 miles of travelling, had given us a view of Oregon aiid of North California from the Rocky mountains to the Pacific ocean, and of the two principal streams which form bays or harbors on the coast of that sea. Having completed this circuit, and being now about to turn the back upon the Pacific slope of our continent, and to recross the Rocky mountains, it is natural to look back upon our footsteps, and take some brief view of the leading features and general structure of the coun- try we had traversed. These are peculiar and striking, and differ essentially from the Atlantic side of our country. The mountains all are higher,more numerous, and more distinctly defined in their ranges and directions; and, what is so contrary to the natural order of such formations, one of these ranges, which is near the coast, (the Sierra Nevada and the Coast Range,) presents higher elevations and peaks than any wliichare tobefoundintlie Rocky mountains themselves. In our eight months' circuit, we were never out of sight of snow ; and the Sierra Nevada, where we crossed it, was near 2,000 feet higher than the Soiuh Pass in the Rocky mountains. In height, these mountains greatly exceed ihose of the Atlantic side, con- stantly presenting peaks which enter the region of eternal snow ; and some of them volcanic, and in a frequent state of activity. They are seen at great distances, and guide the traveller in his courses. The course and elevation of these ranges give direction to the rivers and character to the coast. No great river does, or can, take its rise below the Cascade and Sierra Nevada range ; the distance to the sea is too short to admit of it. The rivers of the San Francisco bay, which are the largest after the Columbia, are local to that bay, and lateral to the coast, having their sources about on a line witli the Dalles of the Columbia, and running each in a valley of its own, between Coast range and the Cascade and Sierra Nevada range. The Columbia is the only river which traverses the whole breadth of the country, breaking through all the ranges, and entering the sea. Drawing its waters from a section of ten degrees of latitude in the Rocky mountains, which are collected into one stream by three main forks (Lewis's, Clark's, and the North fork) near the centre of the Oregon valley, this great river thence proceeds by a isingle channel to the sea, while its three forks lead each to a pass in the mountains, which opens the way into 275 [ 174] the interior of the coniinent. This fact in relation to the rivers of this region gives an immense vahie to the Columbia. Its mouth is the only inlet and outlet to and from the sea ; its three forks lead to the passes ia the mountains ; it is therefore the only line of communication between the Pacific and the interior of North America ; and all operations of war or commerce, of national or social intercourse, must be conducted upon it. This gives it a value beyond estimation, and would involve irreparable injury if lost. In this unity and concentration of its waters, the Pacific side of onr continent differs entirely from the Atlantic side, where the waters of the Allegany mountains are dispersed into many rivers, having their different entrances into the sea, and opening many lines of communi- cation with the interior. The Pacific coast is equally different from that of the Atlantic. The coast of the Atlantic is low and open, indented with numerous bays, sounds, and river estuaries, accessible every where, and opening by many channels into the heart of the country. The Pacific coast, on the con- irarv, is high and compact, with few bays, and but one that opens into theheartof the country. The immediate coast is wliat the seamen call inn bound. A little within, it is skirted by two successive ranges of moun- tains, standing as ramparts between the sea and tiie interior country ; and to get through which, there is. but one gate, and that narrow and easily de- fended. This structure of the coast, backed by these two ranges of moun- tains, with its concentration and unity of waters, gives to the country aa immense military strength, and will probably render Oregon the most im- pregnable country in the world. Differing so much from the Atlantic side of our continent, in coasf, raonntains, and rivers, the Pacific side differs from it in another most rare. and singular feature — that of the Great interior Basin, of which 1 have sa often spoken, and the whole form and character of which I was so anxioas : to ascertain. Its existence is vouched for by such of the American trailers and hunters as have some knowledge of that region ; the structure of the i Sierra Nevada range of mountains requires it to be there ; and my owo.- I observations confirm it. Mr. Joseph Walker, who is so well acquainted in I those parts, informed me that, from the Great Salt lake west, there was a I succession of lakes and rivers which have no outlet to the sea, nor any [connexion with the Columbia, or with the Colorado of the Gulf of Cali- j fornia. He described some of these lakes as being large, with numerous streams, and even considerable rivers, falling into them. In fact, all concur in the general report of these interior rivers and lakes; and, for want of understanding the force and power of evaporation, which so soon estab- lishes an equilibrium between the loss and supply of waters, the fable of whirlpools and subterraneous outlets has gained belief, as the only imagi- nable way of carrying off the waters which have no visible discharge. The structure of the country would require this formation of interior lakes; for the waters which would collect between the Rocky mountains and the Sierra Nevada, not being able to cross this formidable barrier, nor to get to the Columbia or the Colorado, must naturally collect into reservoirs, each of which would have its little system of streams and rivers to supply it. This would be the natural effect ; and what I saw went to confirm it. The weatSalt lake is a formation ofthis kind, and quite a large one; and having: inany streams, and one considerable river, four or five hundred miles long, felling into it. This lake and river I saw and examined myself; and also saw I, * ;*• ;H i..' rifSi i' ' ' f I [ 174] 276 i:i ■'k 4^ it '. ,ViiO£h: U^ M 1 1: the Wah-satch and Bear River mountains which enclose the waters of ih«| lake on the east, and constitute, in that quarter, the rim of the Great Basin I Afterwards, along the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada, where we trav!! elled for forty-two days, I saw the line of lakes and rivers which lie atihel foot of that Sierra; and which Sierra is the western rim of the Basin. laj going down Lewis's fork and the main Columbia, I crossed only inferiorl streams coming in from the left, such as could draw their water fronu short distance only; and I often saw the mountains at their heads, white with snow; which, all accounts said, divided the waters of the desert from those of the Columbia, and which could be no other than the range of mountains which form the rim ot the Basin on its northern side. And ial returning from California along the Spanish trail, as far as the head of the! Santa Clara fork of the Rio Virgen, I crossed only small streams makins their way south to the Colorado, or lost in sand — as the Mo-hahve ; wiiile to the left, lofty mountains, their summits white with snow, were often visi- ble, and which must have turned water to the north as well as to the south J and thus constituted, on this part, the southern rim of the Basin. At thJ head of the Santa Clara fork, and in the Vegas de Santa Clara, we crossed) the ridge which parted the two systems of waters. We entered the Basin! at that point, and have travelled in it ever since, having its southeasteraj rim (the Wah-satch mountain) on the right, and crossing the streams whiciil flow down into it. The existence of the Basin is therefore an establishedl fact in my mind ; its extent and contents are yet to be better ascertained.! It cannot be less than four or five hundred miles each way, and mustliej principally in the Alia California; the demarcation latitude of 42° proba- bly cutting a segment from the north part of the rim. Of its interior, but! little is known. It is called a desert, and, from what I saw of it, sterilityf may be its prominent characteristic ; but where there is so much waterJ there must be some oasis. The great river, and the great lake, reported,] may not be equal to the report; but where there is so much snow, there! must be streams ; and where there is no outlet, there must be lakes to holdl the accumulated waters, or sands to swallow them up. In this easteral part of the Basin, containing Sevier, Utah, and the Great Salt lakes, andl the rivers and creeks falling into them, we know there is good soil and] good grass, adapted to civilized settlements. In the western part, on Sal- mon Trout river, and some other streams, the same remark may be made. I The contents of this Great Basin are yet to be examined. That itisj peopled, we know ; but miserably and sparsely. From all that I heard aadl saw, I should say that humanity here appeared in its lowest form, and inj its most elementary state. Dispersed in single families ; without fire arms; eating seeds and insects ; digging roots, (and hence their name)— snch is the condition of the greater part. Others are a degree higher, and live ia communities upon some lake or river that supplies fish, and from which they repulse the miserable Digger. The rabbit is the largest animal knowa in this desert ; its flesh affords a little meat ; and their bag-like covering is made of its skins. The wild sage is their only wood, and here it is of ex- traordinary size — sometimes a foot in diameter, and six or eight feet high. It serves for fuel, for building material, for shelter to the rabbits, and for some sort of covering for the feet and legs in cold weather. Such are the accounts of the inhabitants and productions of the Great Basin ; and which, though imperfect, must have some foundation,and excite our desire to know the whole. 277 lo-hahve; while Clara, we crossed! C 174 ] The whole idea of such a desert, and such a people, is a novelty in our Icountry, and excites Asiatic, not American ideas. Interior basins, with their own systems of lakes and rivers, and often sterile, are common enough in Asia; people still in the elementary state of families, living in deserts, Ujih no other occupation than the mere animal search for food, may still be seen in that ancient quarter of the globe ; but in America such things are new and strange, unknown and unsuspected, and discredited when related. But I flatter myself that what is discovered, though not enough tosatisfycuriosity, is sufficient to excite it, and that subsequent explorations I ffilj complete what has been commenced. This account of the Great Basin, it will be remembered, belongs to the j Alta California, and has no application to Oregon, whose capabilities may jnstify a separate remark. Referring to my journal for particular descrip- tions, and for sectional boundaries between good and bad districts, I can only say, in general and comparative terms, that, in that branch of agri- calture which implies the cultivation of grains and staple crops, it would be inferior to the Atlantic States, though many parts are superior for wheat; while in the rearing of flocks and herds it would claim a high place. Its grazing capabilities are great; and even in the indigenous grass now there, an element of individual and national wealth may be found. In fact, the valuable grasses begin within one hundred and fifty miles of the Missouri frontier, and extend to the Pacific ocean. East of the Rocky mountains, it is the short curly grass, on which the bnffialo delight to feed, (whence its name of buffalo,) and which is still good when dry and apparently dead. West of those mountains it is a larger growth, in clusters, and hence called bunch grass, and which has a second or fall growth. Plains and mountains both exhibit them ; and I have seen good pasturage at an elevation of ten thousand feet. In this spontaneous product, the trading or travelling cara> vans can find subsistence for their animals; and in military operations any Dumber of cavalry may be moved, and any number of cattle may be driven; j and thus men and horses be supported on long expeditions, and even in I winter in the sheltered situations. Commercially, the value of the Oregon country must be great, washed I as it is by the north Pacific ocean — fronting Asia — producing many of the elements of commerce — mild and healthy in its climate — and becoming, as I it naturally will, a thoroughfare for the East India and China trade. Turning our faces once more eastward, on the morning of the 27th we I left the Utah lake, and continued for two days to ascend the Spanish fork, I which is dispersed in numerous branches among very rugged mountains, which afford few passes, and render a familiar acquaintance with them necessary to the traveller. The stream can scarcely be said to have a val- !ley,the mountains rising often abruptly from the water's edge; but a good trail facilitated our travelling, and there were frequent bottoms, covered with excellent grass. The streams are prettily and variously wooded; and every where the mountain shows grass and timber. At our encampment on the evening of the 28th, near the head of one of the branches we had ascended, strata of bitumifious limestone were "displayed in an escarpment on the river bluffs, in which were contained a variety of fossil shells of new species. It will be remembered, that in crossing this ridge about 120 miles to the northward in August last, strata of fossiliferous rock were discovered^ which « • :\\i r '(•I ■^i H^' .r ' I f J ■.»; i,4 1' :/■ I I 174] 278 have been referred to the oolitic period; it is probable that tliese rocks also belong to the same formation. A few miles from this encampment we reached the head of the stream and crossing, by an open and easy pass, the dividing ridge which separates the waters of the Great Basin from those of the Colorado, we reached the head branches of one of its larger tributaries, which, from the decided color of its waters, has received the name of White river. The snows of the mountains were now beginning to melt, and all the little rivulets were running by in rivers, and rapidly becoming difficult to ford. Contituiinoa few miles up a branch of White river, we crossed a dividing ridge between its waters and those of the Uintah. The approach to the pass, which is the best known to Mr. Walker, was somewhat diflicult for packs, and ini- practicable for wagons — all the streams being shut in by narrow ravines and the narrow trail along the steep hill sides allowing the passage of only one animal at a time. From the summit we had a fine view of the snowy Bear River range; and there were still remaining beds of snow on the cold sides of the hills near the pass. We descended by a narrow ravine, in which was rapidly gathered a little branch of the Uintah, and halted to noon about 1,500 feet below the pass, at an elevation, by the boiling point, 1 of 6,900 feet above the sea. The next day we descended along the river, and about noon reached a point where three forks come together. Fording one of these with some difficulty, we continued up the middle branch, which, from the color of its waters, is named the Red river. The few passes, and extremely rugged nature of the country, give to it great strength, and secure the Utahs from the intrusion of their enemies. Crossing in the afternoon a soinewhai broken highland, covered in places with line grasses, and with cedar on the hill sides, we encamped at evening on another tributary to the t/i'nM, called the Duchesne fork. The water was very clear, the stream not being I Jet swollen by the melting snows; and we forded it without any difficulty. t is a considerable branch, being spread out by islands, the largest arm being about a hundred feet wide ; and the name it bears is probably that | of some old French trapper. The next day we continued down the river, which we were twice obliged | 40 cross; and, the water having risen during the night, it was almost every | where too deep to be forded. After travelling about sixteen miles, we en- camped again on the left bank. I obtained here an occultation of 5 Scorpii at the dark limb of the moon,! which gives for the longitude of the place 112° IS' 30", and the latitude: 40° 18' 53". June 1. — We left lo day the Duchesne fork, and, after traversing a broken! country for about sixteen miles, arrived at noon at another considerable branch, a river of great velocity, to which the trappers have improperly] given the name of Lake fork. The name applied to it by the Indians sig- nifies great swiftness, and is the same which they use to express the speed of a race horse. It is spread out in various channels over several handred yards, and is every where too deep and swift to be forded. At this season of the year, there is an uninterrupted noise from the large rocks which are rolled along the bed. After infinite difliculty, and the delay of a day, we | succeeded in getting the stream bridged, and got over with the loss of one i of our animals. Continuing our route across a broken coimtrv, of which the higher parts were rocky and timbered with cedar, and the lower parts 279 [ m] covered with good grass, we reached, on the afternoon of the 3d, the Uintah fort, a trading post belonging to Mr. A. Roubideau,on the pirineipal fork of the Uintah river. We found the stream nearly as rapid and diffi- cult as the Lake fork, divided into several channels, which were too broad to be bridged. With the aid of guides from the fort, we succeeded, with very great difficulty, in fording it ; and encamped near the fort, which is situated a short distance above the junction of two branches wbicli make the river. By an immersion of the 1st satellite, (agreeing well with the result of the occultation observed at the Duchesne fork,) the longitude of the post is 109° 56' 42", the latitude 40° 27' 45". It has a motley garrison of Canadian and Spanish en^fn^h and hunters, with the usual number of Indian women. We obtained a small supply of sugar and coffee, with lonie dried meat and a cow, which was a very ac- ceptable change from the pinoli oi which w*- had subsisted for some weeks past. I strengthened my party at this place by the addition of Auguste Archambeau, an excellent voyageur and hunter, belonging to the class of Carson and Godey. On the morning of the 5th we left the fort* and the Uintah river, and continued our road over a broken country, which afforded, however, a rich addition to our botanical collection ; and, after a march of 25 miles, were again checked by another stream, called Ashley's fork, where we were de- tained until noon of the next day. An immersion of the 2d satellite gave for this place a longitude of 109° 27' 07", the latitude by observation being 40° 28' 07". In the afternoon of the next day we succeeded in finding a ford ; and, after travelling fifteen miles, encamped high up on the mountain side, where we found excellent and abundant grass, which we had not hitherto seen. A new species of elymiis, which had a purgative and weakening effect upon the animals, had occurred abundantly since leaving the fort. From this point, by observation 7,300 feet above the sea, we had a view of the Colorado below, shut up amongst rugged mountains, and which is the re- cipient of all the streams we had been crossing since we passed the rim of the Great Basin at the head of the Spanish fork. On the 7th we had a pleasant but long day's journey, thiougii beautiful little valleys and a high mountain country, arriving about evening at the verge of a steep and rocky ravine, by which we descended {o *^ Brown's hole," This is a place well known to trappers in the country, where the cafions through which the Colorado runs expand into a narrow but pretty valley, about sixteen miles in length. The river was several hundred yards in breadth, swollen to the top of its banks, near to which it was in many places fifteen to twenty feet deep. We repaired a skin boat which had been purchased at the fort, and, after a delay of a day, reached the op- posite banks with much less delay than had been encountered on the Uin- tah waters. According to information, the lower end of the valley is the most eastern part of the Colorado ; and the latitude of our encampment, which was opposite to the remains of an old fort on the left bank of the river, was 40° 46' 27", atid, by observation, the elevation above the sea * This fort was attacked and taken by a band of tbe Utah Indians since we passed it 5 and the men of the garrison killed, the women carried off. Mr. Roubideau, a trader of St. Louis, was ab- ^tnt, and so escaped the fate of the rest. h: r} , . t« i : I' &' il ' i 1 i! r f i I »i:- ) J It 8^ I -f it-:-. 1, It ii C 171 ] 2S0 ■i '? 4 5,1. W font. The bearing to the entrance of the canon below was south 20" oaht. Here the river enters between lofty precipices of red rocit, atid tli- coiiiitry below is said to assume a very rugged character; ilie river and its alllueuts passing through canons which forbid all access to (he water This shtilterud little vaJle/ was formerly a favorite wintering giouiid toi the trappers, as it afforded them sudicicnt pasturage for their unitnals, and the surrounding mountains are well stocked with game. We surprised a flock of mountain sheep as wo descended to the river, and our hunters killed several. The bottoms of a small stream called tli« Vermillion creek, which enters the loft bank of the river a short distance below our encampment, were covered abundantly with F. vermicular^. and other chenopodiaceous shrubs. From the lower end of Brown's hole we issued by a remarkably dry canon, fifty or sixty yards wide, and rising, as wo advanced, to the height of six or eight hundred feet. Issuing I'roin this, and cro.ssing a small green valley, we entered another reit of the same nature, still narrower than the other, the rocks on either side r sing in nearly vertical precipices perhaps 1,500 feet in height. These pi ices are men- tioned, to give some idea of the country lower down ou t le Colorado, lo which the trappers usually apply the name of a canon country. The canon opened upon a pond of water, where we halted to noon. Several tlocksof mountain sheep were here among the rocks, which rung with volleys ot small arms. In the afternoon we entered upon an ugly, barren, and broken country, corresponding well with that wo had traversed a few degrees north, on the same side of the Colorado. The Vermillion creek afforded us brackish water and indiflferent grass for the night. A few scattered cedar trees were the only improvement of the country on the following day; and at a little spring f bad water, where we halted to noon, we had not even the shelter of these from the hi rays of the sun. At night we encamped in a fine grove of cotton wood trees, on the banks oi the Elk Head river, the principal fork of the Yampah river, commonly called by the trappers the Bear river. We made here a very strong conil and fort, and formed the camp into vigilant guards. The country we were now entering is constantly infested by war parties of the Sioux and other Indians, and is considered among the most dangerous war grounds in tbe Rocky mountains; parties of whites having been repeatedly defeated on this river. On the nth we continued up the river, which is a considerable stream, fifty to a hundred yards in width, handsomely and continuously wooded with groves of the narrow-loaved cotton wood, {populus anguslifolia;] with these were thickets of willow and grain du boeiif. The characteristic plant along the river is F. verrnicu/aris, which generally covers the bot- toms ; mingled with this, are saline shrubs and artemisia. The new variety of grass which we had seen on leaving the Uintah fort had now disap- peared. The country on either side was sandy and poor, scamily wooded with cedars, but the river bottoms afforded good pasture. Three ante- lopes were killed in the afternoon, and we encamped a little below a branch of the river, called St. Vrain's fork. A few miles above was the fort at which Frapp's party had been defeated two years since ; and we passed during the day a place where Carson had been fired upon so c'.ose that one of the men had five bullets through his body. Leaving this river the next morning, we took our way across the hills, where every hollow had a spring of running water, with good grass. 3, on the banks of 281 [ 174 ] Yesterday and to-day we have had hcfore our eyes the high mountains which divide tho Pacihc fronn the Mississippi watert; and entering here sDiong the lower spurs, or foot hills of the range, the face of the country began to improve with a magical rapidity. Not only the river bottoms, but the hills, were covered with grass ; and among the usual varied flora of the mountain region, these were occasionally blue with the showy bloom Ola lupinus. In the course of the morning wo had the first glad view of butFalo, and welcomed the appearance of two old bulls with us much joy as if they had been messengers from home ; and when we descended to noon on St. Vrain's fork, an aftlucnt of Green river, the hunters brought in mountain sheep and the meat of two fat bulls. Fresh entrails in the river showed us that there were Indians above ; and, at evening, judging it un- safe to encamp in the bottoms, which were wooded only with willow thick- ets, we ascended to the spurs above, and forted strongly in a small aspen grove, near to which was a spring of cold water. The hunters killed two fine cows near the camp. A band of elk broke out of a neighboring grove ; antelopes were running over the hills ; and on the opposite river plains, herds of bufi'alo were raising clouds of dust. The country hero appeared more variously stocked with game than any part of the Rocky mountains we had visited ; and its abundance is owing to the excellent pasturage, and its dangerous character as a war ground. June 1 3. — There was snow here near our mountain camp, and the morn- ing was beautiful and cool. Leaving St. Vrain's fork, we took our way di- rectly towards the summit of the dividing ridge. The bottoms of the streams and level places were wooded with aspens; and as we neared the summit, we entered again the piney region. We had a delightful morning's ride, the ground affording us an excellent bridle path, and reached the summit towards midday, at an elevation of 8,000 feet. With joy and exultation we saw ourselves once more on the top of the Rocky mountains, and beheld a little stream taking its course towards the rising sun. It was an affluent of the Platte, called PuUani*s fork, and we descended to noon upon it. It is a pretty stream, twenty yards broad, and bears the name of a trapper who, some years since, was killed here by the Gros Ventre Indians. Issuing from the pines in the afternoon, we saw spread out before us the valley of the Platte, with the pass of the Medicine Butte beyond, and some of the Sweet Water mountains; but a smoky tiaziness in the air entirely obscured the Wind River chain. We were now about two degrees south of the South Pass, and our course home would have been eastwardly ; but that would have taken us over ground already examined, and therefore withou'. the interest which would excite curiosity. Southwardly there were objects worthy to be explored, to wit : the approximation of the head waters of three different rivers — the Platte, the Arkansas, and the Grand River fork of the Rio Colorado of the gulf of California ; the Passes at the heads of these rivers; and the three remarkable mountain coves, called Parks, in which they took their rise. One of these Parks was, of course, on the western side of the dividing ridge; and a visit to it would require us once more to cross the summit of the Hocky mountains to the west, and then to re-cross to the east ; making, in all, with the transit we had just accomplished, three crossings of that moun- tain in this section of its course. But, no matter. The coves, the heads of the rivers, the approximation of their water?, the practtcability of the moun- tain passes, and the locality of the three Parks, were all objects of inter- est, and, although well known to hunters and trappers, were unknown to HI I i:. ' i>"i [ 174] 282 M^ -M science and to history. We therefore changed our course, and turned up the valley of the Platte instead of going down it. We crossed several small affluents, and again made a fortified camp in a grove. The country had now become very beautiful — rich in water grass, and game ; and t'^ these were added the charm of scenery and pleas- ant weather. June 14. — Our route this morning lay along the foot of the mountain, over the long low spurs which sloped gradually down te the river, forming the broad valley of the Platte. The coimtry is beautifully watered. In al- most every hollow ran a clear, cool mountain stream; and in the course of the morning we crossed seventeen, several of them being large creeks, forty to fifty feet wide, with a swift current, and tolerably deep. These were variously wooded with groves of aspen and cottonwood, with willour, cherry, and other shrubby trees. Buffalo, antelope, and elk, were frequent during the day ; p.nd, in their abundance, the latter sometimes reminded us slightly of the Sacramento valley. We halted at noon on Potter's fork — a clear and swift stream, forty yards wide, and in many places deep enough to swim our animals ; and in the evening encamped on a pretty stream, where there were several beaver dams, and many trees recently cut down by the beaver. We gave to this the name of Beaver Dam creek, as now they are becoming sufficiently rare to distinguish by their name the streams on which they are found. In this mountam they occurred more abundantly than elsewhere in all our journey. in which their vestiges had been scarcely seen. The next day we continued our journey up the valley, the country pre- senting much the same appearance, except that the grass was more scanty on the ridges, over which was spread a scrubby growth of sage ; but still the bottoms of the creeks were broad, and afforded good pasture grounds, We had an animated chase after a grizzly bear *his morning, which we tried to lasso. Fuentes threw the lasso upon his neck, but it slipped off, and he escaped into the dense thickets of the creek, into which we did not like to venture. Our course in the afternoon brought us to the main Platte river, here a handsome stream, with a uniform breadth of seventy yard?, except where widened by frequent islands. It was apparently deep, wi h a moderate current, and wooded with groves of large willow. The valley narrowed as we ascended, and presently degenerated into a gorge, through which the river passed as through a gate. We entered it, and found ourselves in the New Park — a beautiful circular valley of thirty miles diameter, walled in all round with snowy mountains, rich with water and with grass, fringed with pine on the mountain sides below the snow line, and a paradise to all grazing animals. The Indian name for it signi- fies " cow lodge,'' of which our own may be considered a translation ; the enclosure, the grass, the water, and the herds of buffalo roaming over it, naturally presenting the idea of a park. We halted for the night just within the gate, and expected, as usual, to see herds of buffalo ; but an Arapahoe village had been before us, and not one was to be seen. Latitude of the encampment 40° 53' 44". Elevation by the boiling point 7,720 feet. It is from this elevated cove, and from the gorges of the surrounding mountains, and some lakes within their bosoms, that the Great Platte river collects its first waters, and assumes its first form ; and certainly no river could ask a more beautiful origin. June 16. — In the morning we pursued our way through the Park, follow- 283 C 174] mg a principal branch of the Platte, and crossing, atnong many smaller ones, a bold stream, scarcely fordable, called Lodge Pole fork,and which is- sues from a lake hi the mountains on the right, ten miles long. In the even- ing we encamped on a small stream, near the upper end of the Park. Lati- tude of the camp 40° 33' 22". June 17. — We coniinued our way among the wr.ters of the Pprk, over the foot hills of the bordering mountains, where we found good pasturage, and surprised and killed some buffalo. We fell into a broad and excellent trail, made by buffalo, where a wagon would pass with ease ; and, in the course of the morning, we crossed the summit of the Rocky mountains, through a pass which was one of the most beautiful we had ever seen. The frail led among the aspens, through open grounds, richly covered with grass, and carried us over an elevation of about 9,000 feet above the level of the sea . The country appeared to great advantage in the delightful summer weather of the mountains, which we still continued to enjoy. Descending from the pass, we found ourselves again on the western waters ; and halted to noon on the edge of another mountain valley, called the Old Park, in which is formed Grand river, one of the principal branches of the Colorado of California. We were now moving with some caution, as, from the trail, w? foimd the Arapahoo village had also passed this way. As we were coming out of their enemy's country, and this was a war ground, we were desirous to avoid them. After a long afternoon's march, we halted at night ona small creek, tributary to a main fork of Grand river, which ran through this portion of the valley. The appearance of the country in the Old Park is interesting, though of a different character from the New ; in- stead of being a comparative plain, it is more or less broken into hills, and surrounded by the high mountains, timbered on the lower parts with quaking asp and pines. June 18. — Our scouts, who were as usual ahead, made from a butie this morning the signal of Indians, and we rode up in time to meet a party of about 30 Ar.^.pahoes. They were men and women going into the hills — the men for game, the women for roots — and informed us that the village was encamped a few miles above, on the main fork of Grand river, which passes through the midst of the valley. I made them the usual presents; but they appeared disposed to be unfriendly, and galloped back at speed to the village. Knowing that we had trouble to expect, I descended immediately into the bottoms of Grand river, which were overflowed in places, the river being up, and made the bi'st encampment the ground afforded. We had no time to build a fort, buc found an open place among the willows, which was defended by the river on one side and the overflowed bottoms on the other. We had scarcely made our few preparations, when about 200 of them ap- peared on the verge of the bottom, mounted, painted, and armed for war. We planted the American flag between us ; and a short parley ended in a truce, with something more than the usual amount of presents. About 20 Sioux were with tliem— one of them an o'd chief, who had always been friendly to the whites. He informed ne that, before coming down, a coun- cil had been held at the village, in which the greater part had declared for attacking us — we had come from their enemies, to whom we had doubtless been carrying assistance in arms and ammunition ; but his own party, with some few of the Arapahoos who had seen us the previous year in the plains, opposed it. It will be remembered that it is customary for this peo- ple to attack the trading parties which they meet in this region, considering .-r' i 1 1 ! 1 , e^ ■ it ). , .1 1' t 1 ■■' ! > m i J. I 1, 4 ^ ,v ii t i ' 1 T , 1 ■ ' rt 1 ;!;• > B> 1 , f ' m; 'i *' 1 k' ,j illl [ 174] 284 '( 'I •i f. ; t f Hi! ! ■ 'm ^ir p' all whom they meet on the western side of the mountains to be their ene- mies. They deceived me into the belief that I should find a ford at their village, and I could not avoid accompanying them ; but put several sloughs between us and their village, and forted strongly on the banks of the river which was everywhere rapid and deep, and over a hundred yards in breadth! The camp was generally crowded with Indians ; and though the baggage was caxefully watched and covered, a number of things were stolen. The next morning we descended the river for about eight miles, and halted a short distance above a canon, through which Grand river issues from the Park. Here it was smootli and deep, 150 yards in breadth, and its elevation at this point 6,700 feet. A frame for the boat being very soon made, our baggage was ferried across ; the horses, in the mean time, swim- ming over. A southern fork of Grand river here makes its junction, nearly opposite to the branch bjr which we had entered the valley, and up this we <;ontinued for about eight miles in the afternoon, and encamped in a bottom on the left bank, which afforded good grass. At our encampment it was 70 to 90 yards in breadth, sometimes widened by islands, and separated into several channels, with a very swift current and bed of rolled rocks. On the 20th we travelled up the left bank, with the prospect of a bad road, the trail here taking the opposite side -, but the stream was up, and no- where fordable. A piney ridge of mountains, with bare rocky peaks, was on our right all the day, and a snowy mountain appeared ahead. We crossed many foaming torrents with rocky beds, rushing down to the river; and in the evening made a strong fort in an aspen grove. The valley had already become very narrow, shut up m«re slosely in densely timbered mountains, the pines sweeping down the verge of the bottoms. The coq de prairie {ietrao europhasianus) was occasionally seen among the sage. We saw to-day the returning trail of an Arapahoe party which had been sent from the village to look for Utahs in the Bayou Salade, (South Park;) and it b'^ing probable that they would visit our camp with the desire to re- turn on norseback, we were more than usually on the alert. Here the river diminished to 35 yards, and, notwithstanding the number of affliients we had crossed, was still a large stream, dashing swiftly by, with a great continuous fall, and not yet fordable. We had a delightful ride along a good trail among the fragrant pines; and the appearance of buffalo in great numbers indicated that there were Indians in the Bayou Salade, (South Park,) by whom they were driven out. We halted to noon under the shade of the pines, and the weather was most delightful. The country was literally alive with buffalo ; and the continued echo of the hunter's rifles on the other side of the river for a momen' made me uneasy, thinking perhaps they were engaged with Indians ; but m a short time they came into camp with the meat of seven fat cows. During the earlier part of the day's ride, the river had been merely a narrow ravine between high piney mountains, backed on Hoth sides, biit particularly on the west, by a line of snowy ridges ; but, after several hours' ride, the stieam opened out into a valley with pleasant bottoms. In the afternoon the river forked into three apparently equal streams ; broad buffalo trails leading up the left hand, and the middle branch indicating good passes over the mountains ; but up the right-hand branch, (which, in the object ol descending from the mountain by the main head of the Arkansas, I was most desirous to follow,) there was no sign of a bufiblo trace. Apprehend- ng from this reason, and the character of the mountains, which are known 285 [ 174] to be extremely nigged, that the right-hand branch led to no pass, I pro. ceeded up the middle branch, which formed a flat valley bottom between limbered ridges on the left and snowy mountains on the right, terminating ii) large buttes of naked rock. The trail was good, and the country inter- esting ; and at nightfall we encamped in an open place among the pines, where we built a strong fort. The mountains exhibit their usual varied growth of flowers, and at this place I noticed, among others, ihermopsis montana, whose bright yellow color makes it a showy plant. This has been a characteristic in many parts of the country since reaching the Uintah waters. With fields of iris were aquilegia coerulea, violets, esparcette, and strawberries. At dark, we perceived a fire in the edge of the pines, on the opposite side of the valley. We had evidently not been discovered, and, at the re- port of a gun, and the blaze of fresh fuel which was heaped on our fires, those of the strangers were instantly extinguished. In the morning, they were found to be a party of six trappers, who had ventured out among the mountains after beaver. They informed us that two of the number with which they started had been already killed by the Indians — one of them but a few days since — by the Arapahoes we had lately seen, who had found him alone at a camp on this river, and carried off" his t;aps and animals. As they were desirous to join us, the hunters returned with them to their encampment, and we continued up the valley, in which the stream rapidly diminished, breaking into small tributaries — every hollow afibrding water. At our noon halt, th^ hunters joined us with the trappers. While preparing to start from their encampment, they found themselves suddenly surround- ed b7 a pa!rty of Arapahoes, who informed them that their scouts had dis- covered a large Utah village in the Bayou Salade, (South Park,) and that a large war party, consisting of almost every man in the village, except those who were too old to go to war, were going over to attack them. The main body had ascended the left fork of the river, which aflforded a better pass than the branch we were on ; and this party had followed our trail, in order that we might add our force to theirs. Carson informed them that we were too far ahead to turn back, but would join them in tlie bayou ; and the In- dians went off" apparently satisfied. By the temperature of boiling water, mir elevation here was 1U,430 feet; and still the pine forest continued, and grass was good. In the afternoon, we continued our road — occasionally through open pines, with a very gradual ascent. We surprised a herd of buflalo, enjoying the shade at a small lake among the pines ; and they made the dry branches crack, as they broke through the woods. In a ride of about three-quarters of an hour, and having ascended perhaps 800 feet, we reached the sum- mit OP THE DIVIDING RIDGE, which would thus havc an estimated height of 11,200 feet. Here the river spreads itself into smalj branches and springs, heading nearly in the summit of tho ridge, which is very narrow. Imme- diately below us was a green valley, thu' lugh which ran a stream; and a short distance opposite rose snowy mountains, whose summits were formed into peaks of naked rock. We soon afterwards satisfied ourselves that imme- diately beyond these mountains was the main branch of the Arkansas river— most probably heading directly with the little stream below us, which gathered its waters in the snowy mountains near by. Descriptions of the rugged character of the mountains around the head of the Arkan- sas, which their appearance amply justified, deterred me from making any m. I ? : I (1 m *■■■' M 1 -ril l'\ !':' [ 174 ] 286 attempt to reach it, which would have involved a greater length of time than now remained at my disposal. In about a quarter ol an hour, we descended from the suinmit of the Pass into the creek below, our road having been very much controlled and inter- rupted by the pines and springs on the mountain side. Turning up the stream, we encamped on a bottom of good grass near its head, which gath- ers its waters in tlie dividing crest of the Rocky mountains, and, according to the best information we could obtain, separated only by the rocky wail of the ridge from the head of the main Arkansas river. By the observa- tions of the evening, the latitude of our encampment was 39° 20' 24", and south of which, therefore, is the head of the Arkansas river. The stream on which we had encamped is the head of either the Fontaine-qui-bouit^ a branch of the Arkansas, or the remotest head of the south fork of the Platte ; as which, you will find it laid down on the map. But descending it only through a portion of its course, we have not been able to settle tliis point satisfactorily. In the evening,a band of buffalo furnished a little excitement, by charging through the camp. On the following day, we descended the stream by an excellent buffalo trail, along the open grassy bottom of the river. On our right, the bayou was bordered by a mountainous range, crested with rocky and naked peaks; and below, it had a beautiful park-like character of pretty level prairies, in- terspersed among low spurs, wooded openly with pine and quaking asp, contrasting well with the denser pines which swept around on the moun- tain sides. Descending always the valley of the stream, towards noon we descried a mounted party descending the point of a spur, and, judging them to be Arapahoes — who, defeated or victorious, wtre equally dangerous to us, and with whom a fight would be inevitable — we hurried to post our- selves as strongly as possible on some willoAr islands in the river. We had scarcely halted when they arrived, proving to be a party of Utah women, who told us that on the other side of the ridge their village was fighti^ig with the Arapahoes. As soon as they had given us this information, they filled the air with cries and lamentations, which madp us understand that some of tneir chiefs liad been killed. Extending along the river, directly ahead of us, was a low piney ridge, leaving between it and the stream a small open bottom, on which the Utahs had very injudiciously placed their village, which, according to the women, numbered about 300 warriors. Advancing in the cover of the pines, the Arapahoes, about daylight, charged into the village, driving off a great number of their horses, and killing four men ; among them, the principal chief of the village. They drove the horses perhaps a mile be- yond the village, to the end of a hollow, where they had previously forted at the edge of the pines. Here the Utahs had instantly attacked them in turn, and, according to the report' of the women, were getting rather the best of the day. The women pressed us eagerly to join with their peopK and would immediately have provided us with the best horses at the vil- lage ; but it was not for us to interfere in such a conflict. Neither party were our friends, or under our protection ; and each was ready to prey upon us that could. But we could not help feeling an unusual excitement at being within a few hundred yards of a fight, in which 500 men we^e closely engaged, and hearing the sharp cracks of their rifles. We were in a bad position, and subject to be attacked in it. Either party which we 287 [ m] might meet, victorious or defeated, was certain to fall upon us ; and, gear- jnaup immediately, we kept close along the pines of the ridge, having it between us and the village, and keeping the scouts on the summit, to give us notice of the approach of Indians. As we passed by the village, which was immediately below us, horsemen were galloping to and fro, and groups of people were gathered around those who were wounded and dead, and who were being brought in from the field. We continued to press on, and, crossing another fork, which came in from the right, after having made fifteen miles from the village, fortified ourselves strongly in tlie pines, a short distance from the river. During the afternoon, Pike's Peak had been plainly in view before us, and, from our encampment, bore N. 87° E. by compass. This was a familiar object, and it had for us the face of an old friend. At its foot were tlie springs, where we had spent a pleasant day in coming out. Near ii were the habitations of civilized men; and it overlooked the broad smoolh plains, which promised us an easy journey to our home. The next day we left the river, which continueJ its course towards Pike's Peak; and taking a southeasterly direcrion, in about ten miles we crossed a gentle ridge, and, issuing from the South Park, found ourselves involved among the broken spurs of the, mountains which border the great prairie plains. Although broken and extremely rugged, the country was very interesting, being well watered !>y numerous affluents to the Arkansas river, and covered with grass and a variety of trees. The streams, which, in the upper part of their course, ran through grassy and open hollows, afier a few miles all descended into deep and impracticable canons, through which they found their way to the Arkansas valley. Here the buffalo trails we had followed were dispersed among the hills, or crossed over into [lie more open valleys of other strea' . During the day our road wasfatigUi.jg and difficult, reminding us much, by its steep and rocky character, of our travelling tht year before among the Wind river mountains ; but always at night we found some grassy bottom, which afforded us a pleasant camp. In the deep seclusion of these little streams, we found always an abundant pasturage, and a wild luxu- riance of plants and trees. Aspens and pines were the prevailing timber ; on the creeks, oak was frequent ; but the narrow-leaved cottonwood, {pop- nlus angustifoliat) of unusually large size, and seven or eight feet in circumference, was the principal tree. With these were mingled a variety of shrubby trees, which aided to make the ravines almost impenetrable. After several days' laborious travelling, we succeeded in extricating [ourselves from the mountains, and on the morning of the 28th encamped I inimediately at their foot, on a handsome tributary to the Arkansas river. In the afternoon we descended the stream, winding our way along the I bottoms, whicli '« ere densely wooded with oak, and in the evening en- I oamped near the main river. Continuing the next day our road along the Arkansas, and meeting on the way a war party of Arapahoe Indians, (who hadrecently been committing some outrages at Bent's fort, killing stock I and driving off horses,) we arrived before sunset at the Pueblo, near the mouth of the Fontaine-qui-boiiif river, where we had the pleasure to find jaiiumber of our old acquaintances. The little settlement appeared in a 'liriving condition ; and in the interval of our absence another had been established on the river, some thirty miles above. hue 30.— Our cavalcade moved rapidly down the Arkansas, along the ■i!.^ •M' ;<;.) a 'i M '1; ^^' j^ i «' I '; [ 174 ] 288 broad road which follows the river, and on the 1st of Ji-ly we arrived at Bent's fort, about 70 miles below the mouth of the Fontaine-qui-bouit, As we emerged into view from the groves on the river, we were saluted with a display of the national flag and repeated discharges from the guns of the fort, where we were received by Mr. George Bent with a cordial welcome and a friendly hospitality, in the enjoyment of which we spent several very agreeable days. We were now in the region where our mountaineers were accustomed to live ; and all the dangers and difficulties of the road being considered past, four of them, including Carson and Walker, remained at the fort. On the 5th we resumed our journey down the Arkansas, travelling along a broad wagon road, and encamped about twenty miles below the fort, On the way we met a very large village of Sioux and Cheyenne Indians, who, with the Arapahoes, were returning from the crossing of the Arkan- sas, where they had been to meet the Kioway and Camanche Indians. A few days previous they had massacred a party of fifteen Delawares, whom they had discovered in a fort on the Smoky Hill river, losing in the I affair several of their own people. They were desirous that we should { bear a pacific message to the Delawares on the frontier, from whom they expected retaliation ; and we passed through them without any difficulty or delay. Dispersed over the plain in scattered bodies of horsemen, and family groups of women and children, with dog trains carrying baggage, aud long lines of pack horses, their appearance was picturesque and imposing, i Agreeably to your instructions, which required me to complete, as far as practicable, our examinations of the Kansas, I bft at this encampment the Arkansas river, taking a northeasterly direction across the elevated dividing grounds which separate that river from the waters of the Platte. On the 7th we crossed a large stream, about forty yards wide, and one or two feet deep, flowing with a lively current on a sandy bed. The discolored and muddy appearance of the water indicated that it proceeded from recent rains; and we are inclined to consider this a branch of the Smoky Hill river, although, possibly, it may be the Pawnee fork of the Arkansas. Be-j yond this stream we travelled over high and level prairies, halting at small ponds and holes of water, and using for our fires the bois de vache, the! country being without timber. On the evening of the 8th we encamped 1 in a Cottonwood grove on the banks of a sandy stream bed, where there was water in holes sufficient for the camp. Here several hollows, or dry I creeks with sandy beds, met together, forming the head of a stream which! afterwards proved to be the Smoky Hill fork of the Kansas river. I The next morning, as we were leaving our encampment, a number ofj Arapahoe Indians were discovered. They belonged to a war party whichi had scattered over the prairie in returning ftom an expedition against the Pawnees. I As Ave travelled down the valley, water gathered rapidly in the sandyl bed from many little tributaries ; and at evening it had become a hand-| some stream, fifty to eighty feet in width, with a lively current in small! channels, the water being principally dispersed among quicksands. J Gradually enlarging, in a few days' march it became a river eighm yards in breadth, wooded with occasional groves of cotton wood. Our roam was generally over level uplands bordering the river, which were closeln covered with a sward of buffalo grass. 1 0n the 10th we entered again the biiffalo range, whv^re we had found these! 289 t mj jjiiraals so abundant on our outward journey, and halted for a day among numerous herds, in order to make a provision of meat sufficient to carry us to the frontier. A few days afterwards, we encamped, in a pleasant evening, on a hi^ river prairie, the stream being less than a hundred yards broad. During the uight we had a succession of thunder storms, with heavy and contina> ousrain, and towards morning the water suddenly burst over the banks, flooding the bottoms, and becoming a large river, five or six hundred yards in breadth. The darkness of the night and incessant rain had concealed from the guard the rise of the water ; and the river broke into the camp so suddenly, that the baggage was instantly covered, and all our perishable collections almost entirely ruined, and the hard labor of many months destroyed in a moment. On the 17th we discovered a large village of Indians encamped at the mouth of a handsomely wooded stream on the right bank of the river. Readily inferring, from the nature of the encampment, thvd they were Pawnee Indians, and confidently expecting good treatment from a people who receive regularly an annuity from the Government, we proceeded di- rectly to the village, where we found assembled nearly all the Pawnee tribe^ who were now returning from the crossing of the Arkansas, where they had met the Kioway and Camanche Indians. We were received by them with the unfriendly rudeness and characteristic insolence which they never fail to display whenever liiey find an occasion for doing so with impunity. The little that remained of our goods was distributed among them, but proved entirely insufficient to satisfy their greedy rapacity; and, after some delay, and considerable difficulty, we succeeded in extricating ourselves from the village, and encamped on the river about fifteen miles below.* The country through which we had been travelling since leaving the Arkansas river, for a distance of 260 miles, presented to the eye only a succession of far-stretching green prairies, covered with the unbroken ver- dure of the buffalo grass, and sparingly wooded along the streams with. straggling trees and occasional groves of cottonwood; but here the country began perceptibly to change its character, becoming a more fertile, wooded^ and beautiful region, covered with a profusion of grasses, and watered with innumerable little streams, which were wooded with oak, largqpelms, and the usual varieties of timber common to the lower course of the Kansas liver. As we advanced, the country steadily improved, gradually assimilating itself in appearance to the northwestern part of the State of Missouri. The beautiful sward of the buffalo grass, which is regarded as the best and most nutritious found on the prairies, appeared now only in patches, being replaced by a longer.and coarser grass, which covered the face of the coun- try luxuriantly. The difference in the character of the grasses became suddenly evident in the weakened condition of our animals, which began sensibly to fail as soon as we quitted the buffalo grass. The river preserved a uniform breadth of eighty or a hundred yards, ^ith broad bottoms continuously timbered with large cottonwood trees, among which were interspersed a few other varieties. • In a recent report to the department, from Major Wharton, who visited tho Pawnee viliagea with ^military force some months afterwards, it is stated that the Indians had intended to attack our party during the night we remained at tliis encampment, but were prevented by the uiter{)oeiliou of the Pawnee Loups. 19 . .' m I n [ 174 J 290 m While engaged in crossing one of the numerous creeks which frequentlv impeded and checked our way, sometimes obliging us to ascend them for several miles, one of the people (Alexis Ayot) was shot through the lee bv the accidental discharge of a rifle — a mortifying and painful mischance to be crippled for life by an accident, after having nearly accomr-'ished in safety a long and eventful journey. He was a young man of remarkably good and cheerful temper, and had been among the useful and efficient men of the party. After having travelled directly along its banks for two hundred and ninety miles, we, left the river, where it bore suddenly off in a northwesterly direction, towards its junction with the Republican fork of the Kansas dis- tant about sixty miles; and, continuing our easterly course, in about twenty miles we entered the wagon road from Santa Fe to Independence, and on the last day of July encamped again at the little town of Kansas, on the baitk^ of the Missouri river. During cur protracted absence of fourteen months, in the cou.se of which we had necessarily been exposed to great varieties of weather and of climate no one case of sickness had ever occurred among us. Here ended our land journey ; and the day following our arrival, we found ourselves on board a steamboat rapidly gliding down the broad Missouri. Our travel-worn animals had not been sold and dispersed over the country to renewed labor, but were placed at good pasturage on the frontier, and are now ready to do their part in the coming expedition. bn the 6th of August we arrived at St. Louis, where the party was finally disbanded ; a great number of the men having their homes in the neighborhood. Andreas Fuentes also remained here, having readily found employmeni for the winter, and is one of the men engaged to accompany me the present year. Pablo Hernandez remains hi the family of Senator Benton, where he is well taken care of, and conciliates good will by his docility, intelligence, and amiability. General Almonte, the Mexican minister at Washington, to whom he was of course made known, kindly oflered to take charge of him, and to carry him back to Mexico ; but the boy preferred to remain where h^was until he got an education, for which he shows equal ardor and aptitude. Our Chinook Indian had his wish to see the whites fully gratified. He accompanied me to Washington, and, after remaining several months at the Columbia college, was sent by the Indian department to Philadelphia, where, among other things, he learned to read and write well, and speak the English language with some fluency. He will accompany me in a few days to the frontier of Missouri, whence he will be sent with some one of the emigrant companies to the village at the Dalles of the Columbia. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, J. C. FREMONT, £t. Capt. Topi. Engineers. THE R( Date, 1843. Mile May 29 7 30 22 31 26 June 1 23 2 22 3 23 4 18 f) 19 6 14 7 8 8 5 10 1 11 24 12 28 13 18 14 17 16 21 17 14 18 23 19 18 20 26 21 27 22 26 23 26 24 34 25 26 26 24 27 27 28 30 29 21 30 26 July 1 32 2 29 3 28 4 18 '28 4 27 26 28 20 ^0 hundred and a northwesterly 'the Kansas, dis- in about twenty endence, and oii ■ Kansas, on the cou.se of which Brand of climate, our arrival, we down the broad id dispersed over pasturage on the ; expedition, e the party was leir homes in the und employment ly me the present iton, where he is , intelligence, and ; Washington, to take charge of sferred to remain lows equal ardor Missouri, whence to the village at 291 \ 174 2 TABLE OF DISTANCES AL05(i THE ROAD TRAVELLED BY THE EXPEDITION !M 1843 AND 1844. OUTWARD .lOIJRNEY. From Kansas landing to Fori Foncouoer. travel- day. a 1 from i nding. Date, u a ts L(x>alities. Date. 8| ^"9 LocaliticH. If .a a S^ «^ (5^ ^i4 1843. 1 Miles. Miles. 1843. Mikn. Miles. May 29 7 7 July 29 6 807 30 22 29 30 24 831 31 26 55 31 30 861 June 1 23 78 Aug. 1 26 887 2 22 100 2 31 918 Meiiicnio 13ovv livti. 3 23 123 3 26 944 4 18 ' 141 4 18 962 North fork. 5 19 160 , 6 19 981 6 14 174 7 30 1,011 7 8 182 8 29 1,040 8 .5 187 Junction of Smoky 9 26 1,066 Sweet Water. Hill and Repub- 10 23 1,089 lican forks. 11 29 1,118 10 I 188 12 25 1,143 11 24 212 13 u 1,162 S )utli Pass. 12 28 240 1,167 13 18 258 14 25 1,192 14 17 275 15 29 1,221 (irei'n river, or Hk> 16 21 296 ' Colorado. 17 14 310 IG 26 1,247 18 23 333 • 17 21 1,268 19 18 351 18 32 1,300 20 26 377 19 28 1,328 21 27 404 20 30 1,358 22 26 430 21 26 1,384 23 26 456 22 37 1,421 24 34 490 23 12 1,433 25 26 516 Crossing of tlie Re- 24 22 1,455 publican. 25 8 1,463 Beer Sj)ring«. 26 24 540 26 31 1,484 27 27 567 27 21 1,505 ■ 28 30 597 28 27 1,532 29 21 618 29 17 1,549 ■ " 30 26 644 South fork. 30 19 1,668 ■» July 1 32 676 31 26 1,594 2 29 705 Sept. 1 22 1,616 3 28 733 2 17 1,633 4 18 751 St. Vrain's fort. 3 3 1,636 Moulh of Bear n^ti^ 26 4 755 4 6 1,642 27 26 781 5 27 1,669 28 20 801 6 25 ! 1,694 1 ,'i Sv J n i», I' . hi '!•:,' Cmf 292 Table of distances — Continued. '' 1 1 Date. 1843. Sept 8 9 10 12 13 14 16 16 17 18 22 24 25 26 27 28 29 80 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 >8 Oct. Miles. 20 8 28 13 27 24 19 26 24 23 12 10 13 17 20 25 24 26 16 29 16 19 26 22 23 26 Miles. 1,714 1,722 1,750 1,763 1,790 1,814 1,833 1,859 1,883 1,906 1,918 1,928 1,941 1,958 1,978 2,003 2,027 2,053 2,069 i 2,098 2,114 j2,133 2, 159 2,181 2,204 2,2.30 Localities. Shore of the Salt lake. Island in the Salt lai(e. Fort Hall. American falls on Lewis's fork. Date. 1843. Oct. 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 Miles. 24 2 20 27 20 22 26 13 21 20 21 12 5 16 24 ' 18 25 26 28 29 30 31 Nov. 1 2 3 4 6 & 7 18 3 19 19 21 26 23 19 17 14 90 Miles. 2,354 2,256 2,276 2,303 2,323 2,346 2,371 2.384 2,405 2,425 2,446 2,458 2,463 2,479 2,497 2,515 2,518 2,537 2,556 2,577 2,603 2,626 2,645 2,662 2,676 2,766 Localities. Port Boise. Fort Nez Perce, x the mouth ofWa- lahwalah river, Dalles. Fort Vancouver, HOMEWARD JOURNEY. From the Dalles to the Missouri river. It h It h Date. 8'a ^n Localities. Date. 8| 8| Localities. |3 S 23 25 851 hahve river. 24 20 871 22 20 1,733 25 25 896 23 33 1,766 27 12 908 24 8 1,774 28 12 920 25 25 1,799 29 7 927 27 43 1,842 « 30 11 938 28 12 1,854 31 26 964 29 7 1,861 Feb. 2 10 980 30 24 1,885 3 7 987 * May 1 15 1,900 4 3 990 2 12 1,912 7 4 994 3 18 1 1,930 8 1 995 '' 4 57 i 1,987 10 3 998 6 18 ; 2,005 Rio Virgen. I ! (, ; !'i| *1' i ^t »l J S . v^ ^i i"^ ll 1 z a ^ 1- 3 " Miles. Miles. 10 2,015 18 2,033 1 2,034 24 2,068 12 2,070 14 2,084 15 2,099 21 2,120 17 2,137 17 3,154 27 2,181 22 2,203 31 2,234 23 2,257 12 2,269 23 2,292 32 2,324 9 2.333 22 2,355 25 2,380 25 2,405 31 2,436 16 2,468 16 2,468 8 2,476 21 2,497 26 2,523 15 2,538 30 2,568 36 2,604 30 2,634 30 2,664 26 2,690 26 2,716 23 2,739 25 2,764 26 2,790 33 2,823 13 2.836 16 2,852 27 2,879 |IjrM'Hlitit. Ve^aH (Ic Santa Clara. Sevier river. Utah lake. Uintah fort. Green river, (Brown's hole.) New Park. Old Park. Datt'. 1844. Juno 21 28 23 24 25 86 87 88 89 30 July 1 6 6 9 10 18 13 16 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 Aug. 1 Miles. 19 15 36 81 81 11 10 31 30 37 33 20 31 31 88 27 88 34 30 10 83 32 84 29 89 83 17 86 88 19 84 18 88 18 18 8 7 Miles. 2,898 8,913 3,949 2,970 2,991 3,008 3,013 3,033 3,063 3,100 3,133 3,163 3,184 3,215 3,243 3,270 3,298 3,332 3,352 3,362 3,385 3,417 3,441 3,470 3 ''99 3,622 3,639 3,565 3,587 3,606 3,630 3,648 3,670 3,682 3,694 3,702 3,709 f.ficalideH. BiivouHnln(le,(South Park.) Puel)lo, on ihc Ar- kanxaH. Brnt'« iort. Head water of Smoky Hill fork of the KanKBS. Kan.saH landing. Missouri river. The main vegetable pr( 2i) «j» C i74] A P P E N II 1 X . A. GEOLOGICAL FORMATIONS ^iilure of the j^eological forma lions occupy inf^ the portion of Oregi * itnd North California included in a geographical 'survey under the direction of Captain Friinont: by James Hall, palseontologiat to the Stale of New Fork. The main geographical features of every country, us well as its soils and vegetable productions, depend upon the nature of its geological formations. So universally true is this, that a suite of the rocks prevailing in any coun- iry, with their mineral and fossil contents, will convey more absolute in- formation regarding the agricultural and other capabilities of that country, than could be given by a volume written without reference to these sub- jects. Indeed, no survey of any unknown region should be made without at the same time preserving collections of the prevailing rocks, minerals, and fossils. Tho attention s^iven to this subject in the foregoitig report ren- ders the information of the lighest value, and perfectly reliable in reference to opinions or calculations regarding the resources of the country. The specimens examined present a great variety of aspect and composi- tion; but calcareous rocks prevail over a large portion of the country trav- ersed between longitude 98° and the mouth of the Columbia river, or 122** west from Greenwich. That portion of the route embraced in this notice varies in latitude through seven degrees, viz: 38° to 45° north; and speci- mens are presented in nearly every half degree of latitude. Such a collec- tion enables us to forma very satisfactory conclusion regarding this portion of the country, 7° in width and 24° in length ; having an extent east and west equal to the distance between the A.tlantic coast of New York and the iMississippi river, and lying in the temperate latitudes, which extend from Washington city to the northern limit of the State of New York. Although we are far from being able to fix the minute or detailed geol- ogy, this collection presents us with sufficient materials to form some prob- able conclusions regarding the whole region from this side of the Rocky mountains westward to the mouth of the Columbia river. But it is not within my province to dwell upon the advantages opened to us in the vast field which the researches of Captain P'r6mont have made known. I there- fore proceed to a description of the specimens as they occur, taking them in the order from east to west. This, in connexion with the section of alti- tudes on which the rocks are marked, will show the comparative extent of different formations. Longitude 96i°, latitude 38i°; Otter creek. — The single specimen from this locality is a yellowish, impure limestone, apparently containing organic remains, whose structure is obliterated by crystallization. From its posi- iil: 1(5] . >il|! . Ill t '. I < > ;■(•! :f !i ■i I i i iii i Hi H^ >'. >' C 174] 296 tion relatively to the formations farther east, I am inclined to refer it to the cretaceous formation. Longitude 98°, latitude 39°; Smoky Hill river. — The specimens from this locality are numbered 26, 29, 31, 33, and 88. They all bear a similar char- acter, and the fossils are alike in each. The rock, is an impure limestone, pretty compact, varying in color from dull yellowish to ashy brown and abounding in .shells of a species of Inoceramus. (See description.) This r(Jck probably belongs to the cretaceous formation ; the lower part of which has been indie Ated by Dr. Morton as extending into Louisiana Arkansas, and Missouri. Although the specimens from this locality bear a more close resemblance to the uppe- part of the formation, I do not feel justified in referring them ito any other period. This formation evidently underlies large tracts of iioantry, and extends far towards the base of the Rocky mountains. Longitude 105°, latitude 39°. — The specimens from this locality are a somewhat porous, light-colored limestone, tough and fine grained. One or two fragments of fossils from this locality still indicate the cretaceous period; but the absence of any perfect specimens must deter a positive opinion upon the precise age of the formation. One specim.en, however, from its form, markings, and fibrous structure, I have referred to the genus inoceramt :.. It is evident, from the facts presented, that little of important geological chaiiQ^ is observed in travelling over this distance of 7 degrees of longi- tude. Rut at what depths beneath the surface the country is underlaid by this formation, I have no data for deciding. Its importance, however, must not be overlooked. A calcareous formation of this extent is of the greatest advantage to a country ; and the economical facilities hence afforded in agriculture, and the uses of civilized life, cannot be overstated. The whole formation of this region is probably, with some variations, an extension of that which prevails through Louisiana, Arkansas, and Missouri. The strata at the locality last mentioned are represented as being verti- cal,standing against the eastern slope of the Rocky mountains, immediately below Pike'.T Feak. Loiigitudo 106°, latitude 41° — At this point, although only one degree west 01 the last-named specimens, we find a total change in the geology of the region. The specimens are of a red feldspathic granite, showing a tendency to decomposition ; and, from the informaii on accompanying the same, this rock overlies a mass of similar granite, in more advanced stages of decomposition. The specimens present nothing peculiar in their ap- pearance; and the only apparent difference between these and the ordinary red feldspathic granites of more eastern localities, is, their finer grain and dingy color. Longitude 107°, latitude 41 i° — The specimens from this locality are of crystalline feldspathic granite, of a flesh-red color, apparently not acted on by the weather, and presenting the common appearance of this kind of granite in other localities. No. 95, "above the third bed of coal, in the lowur hill, North fork of the Platte river," is siliceous clay slate, having a saline taste. Longitude Vj-, latitude 41i°; Nos. 99^ and 104.— No. 99 is a fine- grained, soft, argillaceous limestone, of a light ash color, evidently a modern formation ; but, from the absence of fossils, it would be unsatisfectory to 297 rth fork of the [ m] assign it any place in the scale of formations. The other specimen, No. 104 is a compact serpentine, having the aspect of a greenstone trap ; and, from the account given, is probably interstratified with the limestone. The limestone is more friable and chalky than any specimen previously noticed. Longitude 110i°, latitude 41^**. — The specimens from this locaUty, are very peculiar and remarkable. The first is a friable or pulverulent green calcareous sand, unctuous to the touch, but remaining unaltered on exposure to the atmosphere. Its character is very similar to the green sands of New Jersey; but it is of a brighter color, and less charged with iron. The second specimen is of similar composition, but quite solid — being, in fact, a green limestone. The singularity of the specimen, and that which first attracted my attention, was the efflorescence of a salt upon its surface, which appears to be, in part, chloride of sodium. Supposing this to be ac- cidental, I broke a specimen, and, after a day or two, a similar efflorescence appeared from the fresh fracture ; leaving no doubt but the salts arise from deconijosit'on of substances within the stone itself. Loni;itiiG • 111°, latitude 41 i°; Muddy river. — These specimens are of a yellowish'j^ray oolitic limestone, containing turbo, cerithium, &c. The rock is a perfect oolite ; and, both in color and texture, can scarcely be dis- tinguished from specimens of the Bath oolite. One of the specimens is quite crystalline, and the oolitic structure somewhat obscure. In this in- stance, the few fossils observed seem hardly sufficient to draw a decisive conclusion regarding the age of the formation ; but, when taken in connex- ion with the oolitic structure of the mass, its correspondence with the Eng- lish oolites, and the modern aspect of the whole, therfe remains less doubt of the propriety of referring it to the oolitic period. A further collection from this interesting locality would doubtless develop a series of fossils, which would forever settle the question of the relative age of the formation. A few miles up this stream, Captaiti Fremont has collected a beautiful series of specimens of fossil ferns. The rock is an indurated clay, wholly destitute of carbonate of lime, and would be termed a " fire clay." These are probably, geologically as well as geographically, higher than the oolite specimens, as the rocks at this place were observed to dip in the direction of N. 65° W. at an angle of 20 degrees. This would show, conclusively, that the vegetable remains occupy a higher position than the oolite.* As- sociated with these vegetable remains, were found several beds of coal, dif- fering in thickness. The section of strata at this place is as follows : Sandstone - - - - Coal .... Coal .... Indurated clay, with vegetable remains Clay .... Coal .... Clay - ... Coal .... Clay .... Coal .... IL in. 1 1 3 1 3 20 5 5 5 The stratum containing the fossil ferns is about 20 feet thick ; and above It are two beds of coal, each about 1 5 inches. These are succeeded by a i \ V ] J til If \ m M^. E 174] 298 bed of sandstone. Below the bed containing the ferns, there are three dis- tinct beds of coal, each separated by about 5 feet of clay. Before examin- ing the oolitic specimens just mentioned, I compared these fossil ferns with a large collection from the coal measures of Pennsylvania and Ohio, and it was quite evident that this formation could not be of the same age. There are several specimens which I can only refer to the Glossoptens Phililpsii (see description,) an oolitic fossil ; and this alone, with the general charac- ter of the other species, and the absence of the large stems so common in the coal period, had led me to refer them to the oolitic period. I conceive however, that we have scarcely sufficient evidence to justify this reference' and though among the fossil shells there are none decidedly typical of the ooUte, yet neither are they so of any other formation; and the lithological character of the mass is not reliable evidence. Still, viewed in whatever light we please, these fossil ferns must, I conceive, be regarded as mostly of new species, and in this respect form a very important addition to the flora of the more modern geological periods. In passing from this locality westward to the Bear river, Captain Fremont crossed a high mountain chain, which is the dividing ridge between the waters of Muddy river flowing eastward, and those of Muddy creek flow- ing into Bear river on the west. The gap where the ridge was crossed is stated to be 8,200 feet above the level of the sea. In this ridge, 115 miles to the southward of the locality of the fossils last mentioned, were collected the specimens next to be named. These were obtained near the summit of the ridge, and probably higher than the poiiu where Captain Fremont's party crossed. The collection from this locality (longitude 111°, latitude 40^) consists of several specimens of an argillaceous, highly bituminous, and somewhat slaty limestone, loaded with fossils. It is very brittle, and easily shivered into small fragments by a blow of the hammer. Its natural color is a light sepia, but it bleaches on exposure to the atmosphere. In structure, it is not unlike some of the limestones of the lias or oolite formations. The fossils are chiefly one species of Ceritliium and one of Mya ; and besides these, another species of Cerithium and a Nucula can be identified. So far as 1 am able to ascertain, these fossils are undescribed, and will therefore be regarded as new species. It may be considered premature to decide upon the geological position of this mass. It may ^elong to the same period* though far higher in the series than those in the same longitude, which have just been described. In the locality of the fossil plants, the strata dip W. by N. ; but, from the structure of the country, it is evident that there is a change in the direction of the dip before reaching the high ridge from which the specimens under consideration were taken. Further examination, I have no doubt, will set this question at rest. I may here notice the interesting fact of the wide extent of these forma- tions, showing the existence, in this longitude, of these calcareous beds,of a nature precisely like those of the modern formations ot western Europe. A few miles south of the locality of these fossils. Captain Fremont de- scribes the occurrence of an immense stratum of fossil salt ; and the same ridge is represented as bounding the Great Salt lake. There would there- fore seem no dot^bt that the salt in question is associated with the strata of this period, and probably coeval with the same. I may remark, in the same connexion, that the surfaces of the specimens 299 [ "4] containing the fossil ferns-also effloresce a salt, which is a 'parently clrio" fide of sodium. 'Hiis fact seoms to indicate the presence of fossil salt at this distance north of the kno'vn jpcality, and is a circumstance which we naturally appropriate as part of the eviuOfice Oi kV/itity in the age of the formations. This region is unquestionably one of the highest interest, both as regards its economical resources, and equally so in the contributions which it will yield to geological science. In the specimens from the vegetable locality, I have been able to indicate seven or eight species of fossil ferns, most of whiph are new. Further researches will doubtless greatly multiply this number. Besides these, as new species probably peculiar to our continent, they have a higher interest, inasmuch as they show to us the wide extent and the nature of the vegetation of this modern coal period. In the broad fields of the west, we shall have an opportunity of tracing it over large and unbroken areas, and many highly interesting results may follow its com- parison with the vegetation of the true carboniferous period. Again : since these deposites have evidently been made over large tracts of country, it is not unreasonable to suppose that the quantity of materials accumulated will be very great, and that we may expect to find profitable coalbeds in the rocks of this age. This subject, besides being of high interest to science, is of some prospective economical importance, though perhaps too remote to dwell upon, while the country remains so little ex- plored as at present. Longitude 112°, latitude 42°. — The specimen No. 72 is a grayish-blue limestone, efflorescing a salt upon the surface, "from the Hot Salt Springs of September 13, 1843." No. 108 is a siliceous limestone of a brownish- gray color ; where exposed, the surface becomes porous, from the solution and removal of the lime, while the siliceous particles remain. From the general lithological characters of the specimen, it is probably a modern rock, but its precise agie cannot be decided. Longitude 112°, latitude 4H° — The single specimen from this locality is, in iis present state, " granular quartz." It is, however, very evidently, ail altered sedimentary rock, with the lines of deposition quite distinctly preserved. This rock probably comes out from under the siliceous lime- stone last described, both having been altered by modern ig!ieo'.'.s action. The character of the specimens from the next locality — three-quarters of a degree, farther west — may perhaps throw some light upon the present condition of those last named. Longitude 112i°, latitude 42i°; at lhe^9merican Falls of Snake river. — The collection from this point presents the following, in a descending order. These specimens are numbered 94, 96, 97, 101, 102, 106, and 107 : A botryoidal or concretionary lava, No. Obsidian, No. 102. Vitrified sandstone, No. 106. 94. A whitish ash-colored chalk or limestone, No. 107. A light ashy volcanic sand, No. 97. Brown sand, volcanic. (?) These are all apparently volcanic products, with, probably, the excep- tion of Nos. 106 and 107, which may be sedimentary products; the first ahered by heat. The two lower deposites are evidently volcanic sand or "ashes;" the upper of these, or No. 5, has all the characters of pulverized pumice stone, and is doubtless of similar origin. Sf i ' /'I t^.K 4m tji I ij. ) '..i m a! i^ I i ■ I ■ [ 174] 300 No. 107 is an impure limestone, but little harder than common chalk- and, but for its associations, would be regarded as of similar origin.* ' No. 106 is apparently a vitrified sandstone, the grains all rounded and the surfaces of the mass highly )olished. No. 102 is a beautiful black obsidian. No. 94 is a mammillary or botryoidcal lava ; the concretions having a ra- diated structure, the mass is easily frangible, and readily separates into small angular fragmients. The whole of this series, with the exception of No. 107, may be re^^ard- ed as of volcanic origin ; for the apparently vitrified sandstone may be, in its composition, not very distinct from trap or basalt, though it is more vit- reous, and its fracture fresher and brighter. * ' Longitude 114^°, latitude 42i° — The specimens marked No. 3 are of light-colored tufacoous limestone and siliceous limestone. The speci- mens appear as if from some regular forma .; >n, broken up and thinly coat- ed by calcareous matter from springs. Froin the fact observed by Captain Fr6mont, that these fragments enter largely into the composition of the soil we may presume that the same is highly calcareous. The specimen No. 12, from the same locality, consists mainly of small fragments of the crust, claws, &c., of some crustacr^an — probably of fresh- woter origin. There are also some vertebra3 and ribs of fishes. The whole is so unchanged . nd of such recent appearance, as to induce a belief that the deposite is of tu-h-water origin, and due to the desicc.iou of some lake or stream. Should such a deposite be extensive, its prospective value to an agricultural community will be an important consideration. But, as before remarked, there is evidently a preponderance of calcareous matter throughout the whole extent of country traversed. Longitude 1 15°, latitude 43°. — The specimens from this locality are num- bered 16, 21, and 39. Nos. 16 and 21 are angular fragments of impure limestone of some recent geological period, and No. 39 consists of an ag- gregation of pebbles and gravel. The pebbles are of black siliceous slale, which are represented as forming a conglomerate with the limestone frag- ments just mentioned. The limestone specimens are probably broken frag- ments from some stratum in situ in the same vicinity, and the conglom- erate is one of very recent formation. The slate pebbles are from a rock of much older date, and worn very round and smooth, while the limestone bears Uttle evidence of attrition. The gray siliceous limestone specimens contain a species of Turritella, and a small bivalve shell. (See descriptions and figures.) Longitude 1 151°, latitude 43i°. — The two specimens from this locality are of volcanic origin. No. 46 is a reddish compact trap or lava, with small nodules or cavities filled with analcime and stilbite. No. 52 is a coarse and porous trap, or ancient lava. Longitude 116°, latitude 43i°. — The single specimen from this place is ♦ Since this was written, a specimen of No. 107 has been submitted to the examination of Pro- fessor Bailey, who finds it highly charged with "calcareous polythalamia" in excellent preser\'a- tion. He remarks, that " the forms are, many of them, such as are common in chalk and cretaceou? marls; but a' '.hese forma are still living in our present oceans, their presence docs not aflbrd con- clusive evidence as to the age ot the deposite in which they occur. I have, however, invariably found that in our tertiary deposites, the chalk polythalamia are accompanied by largo species of (reneTA peculiar to the tertiary. Now, as these are entirely wanting in the specimen from Captain Fremont, the evidence, as far as it goes, is in favor of the view that the specimen came from a cretaceous formation." s of Turritella, this locality are 52 is a coarse 301 [174] a white feldspathic granite, with a small proportion of quartz, and black mica in small scales. The specimen contains a single garnet, The struc- ture is somewhat slaty, and from appearances it is rapidly destructible from atmospheric agency. Longitude 117°, latitude 44i°. — These specimens from Brule river are numbered 4, 19, 41, and 48. No. 4 is a slaty limestone, partially altered, probably from' the proximity of igneous rocks. No. 41 h of similar character, very thinly laminated, and of a dark color. No. 19 is of similar character, but more altered, and partially crystalline. The lines of deposition arc, however, preserved. No. 48 has the appearance of a compact gray feldspathic lava ; but there are some apparent lines of deposition still visible, which incline me to the opinion that it is an altered sedimentary rock. Longitude 1 17i°, latitude 45°. — The specimen is a compact, dark-colored basalt, showing a tendency to desquamate upon the exposed surfaces. This rock forms the mountains of Brule river. Longitude 117i°, latitude 45^°. — The specimen No. 110 is a fine-grained basalt or trap, with a few small cells filled with analcime. This is of the rocK forming the Blue mountain. Longitude 118°, latitude 45°. — The single specimen (No. 43) from this locality is apparently an altered siliceous slate. It is marked by what ap- lear to be lines of deposition, the thin laminae being separated by layers of mica. Longitude 119°, latitude 3Si°. — The specimens Nos. 14,23, 45, and 51, are all from this locality. No. 14 appears to be a decomposed feldspar, having a slightly porous structure ; it is very light, and adheres strongly to the tongue. No, 23. A friable, argillaceous sandstone, somewhat porous upon the ex- posed surfaces. No. 45. A compact lava of a sienitic structure, containing obsidian. This specimen appears much like some of the porous portions of trap dikes which cut through the sienitic rocks of New England. No. 51. Feldspar, with a little black mica. The specimen is probably from a granite rock, though its structure is that of compact feldspar. Longitude 120°, latitude 455°. — The single specimen (No. 20) from this locality is a compact, fine-grained trap, or basalt, with a few round cavities of the size of peas. Longitude 120i°, latitude 38'i°. — The specimens are numbered 91, 109, and 117. No. 91 has the appearance of a porous trap, or basalt, though possibly the production of a modern volcano. It is thickly spotted with crystals of analcime, some apparently segregated from the mass, and others filling ve- sicular cavities. No. 117 is a compact basalt, the specimen exhibiting the character of the basalt of the Hudson and Connecticut river valleys. No. 109 is a fine-gramed granite, consisting of white quartz and feldspar, with black mica. Captain Fremont remarks that this rock forms the east- ern part of the main California mountain. From its granular and rather loose structure, it is to be inferred that it would undergo rapid decomposi- tion in a climate like ours. ^ ■■«■';. \ tfi . .14 V ¥ t-' \m\ C 174] 302 ■i^i Longitude 121% latitude 44 i°. — The specimens from this locality are -numbered 53, 44, 55,56, 57, 58, 59, 60, and 61. These are characteristic specimens of the strata composing a bluff 700 feet high, and are numbered in the descending order. The specimens 59, 60, and 61, are three specimens of what appear to be very fine clay, perfectly free from carbonate of lime, and nearly as white as ordmary chalk. These three specimens, which are understood to be from three distinct strata, vary but slightly in their characters — No. 61 being of the lightest color. No. 58 is a specimen of grayish volcanic breccia, the larger portion con- sisting of volcanic sand or ashes. Nos. 55, 56, and 57, are of the same character, being, however, nearly free from fragments or pebbles, and composed of light volcanic sand, or scoria, with an apparently large admixture of clay from the strata below, The whole is not acted on by acids, and, so far as can be judged, is of volcanic origin. No. 58 is of similar character to the preceding three specimens, but con- tains more fragments, and has a generally coarser aspect.* Longitude 121°, latitude 45°. — These specimens are numbered 7, 35,40. 47, and 49. No. 7 is a siliceous sinter, coated externally with hydrate of iron. * The Bpeciinens Nos. 59, 60, and 61, which are frorn three different but conti^ous strata, have since been examined by Profeasor J. W. Bailey, of West Point, who finds them charged with fluviatile infusoria of remarkable forms. Below are descriptions (accompanied by a plate) of some of the mo Fig. 26. Scale =10-100ths of millimetre magnified equally with the drawings. If arger portion con- , however, nearly volcanic sand, or . the strata below, 11 be judged, is of but contiguous strata, irho finds them charged iteresting forms, whisli has not been considered Is figured belong, as no lently deposites of the species is figured and It resembles Emolia are firora individuals of 'ater species now living ijptera fi^oin Labrador >Iy merely varieties of rs at West Point. 1 a large species which n's Journal for April, view.) — This species' liar bases with radiant chief mass of No. 60, a species from Mexico -agmcnts of beautiful lossn- Fiii:sH WATi:inNFrs(>Ki.\ i hom ohk<.(>\ /'A r JfP :e IW.BuleV'ld l.ith ,l.\ K Wel..-i rr..l!.i;f ' • ll I r r I i 1:1 No. 35. A nreseiice of i No. 40. i light-colored No. 47. C< specimen is \ tion given, a] bia river. No. 49. A This, with N which is the Longitude this place art 36, 37, 3S, ai Of tiiese sj sioiis of leav No. 17 is £ retain their i No. 30 is c matter, and i of partially c Nos. 10, 3. (For further No. 22. Ci tion to which No. 18 is ! No. 36. A No. 37. T reddish color No. 44. A No. 44ff. No. 62. A decide its ch Bear river, a No. 71. (3 &c. No. 81. C No. 98. F These thr( from spruigs 303 [ »74] No. 35. A reddish, rather compact lava. The color is owing to the presence of iron, which hastens its decomposition on exposure. No. 40. A reddish brecciated feldspathic lava, embracing fragments of liffht-colored siliceous sandstone or lava. °No. 47. Compact trap, or basalt, with a few rounded cavities. This specimen is precisely like No. 20, longitude 120°; and, from the descrip- tion given, appears to be a prevailing rock along the valley of the Colum- bia river. No. 49, An imperfect striped agate, with the centre of siliceous sinter. This, with Nos, 7 and 40, is doubtless associated with the basalt, No. 47, wiiich is the prevailing rock. Longitude 122°, latitude 45 J°; Cascades of the Columbia river. — From this place are the specimens numbered 9, 10, 13, 17, 18, 22, 24, 25, 27, 30, 36, 37, 3S, and 44. Of these specimens, Nos. 13 and 24 are indurated clay, with impres- sions of leaves of dicotyledonous plants. No. 17 is a fine argillaceous sandstone, with stems and leaves, which still retain their fibrous structure. No. 30 is a specimen of dicotyledonotis wood, partially replaced by stony matter, and a portion still retaining the fibrous structure and consistency of partially carbonized wood. Nos. 10, 25, 27, and 38, are specimens of coal from the same locality. (For further information of these, see analysis of specimens appended.) No. 22. Carbonaceous earth, with pebbles, evidently a part of the forma- tion to which the previous specimens are referred. No. 18 is a compact trap, apparently having a stratified structure. No. 36. A porous basaltic lava, with crystals of analcime, &c. No. 37. Two specimens — one a porous or rather scoriaceous lava of a reddish color; and the other a compact gray lava, with a few small cavities. No. 44. A brown scoriaceous lava. No. 44a. A small specimen of compact lava. Miscellaneous specimens. No. 62. A coral in soft limestone ; the structure too much obliterated to decide its character. (From the dividing ridge between Bear cieek and Bear river, at a point 8,200 feet above tide water.) No. 71. (Calcareous tufa, containing the remains of grasses, twigs, moss, &c. No. 81. Calcareous tufa stained with iron. No. 98. Ferruginous calcareous tufa, containing remains of twigs, &c. These three last-named specimens are evidently the calcareous deposites from springs holding carbonate of lime in solution. 1$ »,,*, tm 11 {• If"' ' ■ • i^ \\k [ 174 ] 304 O R G A iS' B. REMAINS ij, Descriptions of organ'c remain* T^lected by Captain J. C. Fremont in the. geographical survey of Oregon and North California : by Jama Hull, palieontologist to the Stale of New York. Plates I and II. \ Fossil ferns, etc. The specimens here described arc all from one locality, in longitude 111", latitude 41i°. They occur in a light-gray indurated clay, which isentirely free from calcareous matter, very brittle, and having a very imperfect slaty structure. Nearly all the species differ from any described in Brongniart's "Hist. Feg. Foss.,'' in Goppert's "Systema Filicum Fossilium,"ox in Phi!- lips's " Geology of Yorkfihire.''- 1. SpHENOPTERis Fremonti. PI. 2, figs. 3, 3 «. (No. 118 of collection.) Compare sphenopteris crenulata ; Brong. Hist. Veg. Foss. i, p. 187, t. 56,f. 3. Description. — Frond bipinnate, (or tripinnate ?) rachis moderately strong, striated ; piiinaj oblique to the rachis, rigid, moderately approximate, alter- nate J pinnules subovate, somewhat decurrent at the base, about three or four lobed ; fructification very distinct in round dots (capsules) of carbona. ceous matter upon the margins of the pinnules. 3 a, a portion twice mag- nified. I have named this beautiful and unique species in honor of Captain Fre- mont, and as a testimony of the benefits that science has derived from his valuable explorations on the west of the Rocky mountains. 2. Sphenopteris triloba. PI. 1, fig, S. (Nos. 65, 79, and SO, of collec- tion.) Description. — Frond bipinnate, or tripinnate; rachis slender, flexuous; pinnae long, flexuous, distant, opposite, perpendicular to the rachis; pin- nules oblong, sub-trilobate, opposite or alternate, narrow at base, distant, perpendicular. The distant, long, and flexuous pinnai, with the small trilobate pinnules, distinguish this species. In general features, it approaches somewhat the sphenopteris rigida, (Brong,,) but differs essentially in the smaller pinnules, which are usually nearly opposite, and in never being more than sub-trilo- bate, while in S. rigida they are often deeply 5-lobed. 3. Sphenopteris (?) paucifolia PI, 2, figs. 1, I a, 1 6, 1 c, 1 d, (No. 118 of collection.) Description. — Frond tripinnate ; rachis rather slender, with long, lateral, straight branches, which are slightly oblique; pinnae slender, nearly at right angles, alternate and opposite ; pinnules minute, oval-ovate, somewhat dis- tant, opposite or alternate, expanded or attenuate at base, sometimes deeply bilobed or digitate; midrib not apparent. This species was evidently a beautiful fern of large size, with .slender, sparse foliage, giving it a peculiarly delicate appearance. In some of its varieties, ( as figure 1 b,) it resembles Sphenopteris digitata; Phillips's Geol. F () S « Hi F E RN S. /V- / (»Ki;(.().\ AM) VOUril (A LI I OK MA /. C. Fremont, in ■Pi^pl*r!r\!? '^VT''" .•^ 1 or of Captain Pre- derived from his ns. and SO, of coliec- ilender, flexuous; > the rachis; pin- at base, distant, trilobate pinnules, es somewhat the ^^ 5 smaller pinnules, H%. "^^ ore than sub-trilo- Awb "^"^ *, 1 c, 1 d. (No. with long, lateral, ler, nearly at right HlJ^3 Lte, somewhat dis- sometimes deeply ize, with slender, In some of its or; Phillips's Geol. '-«; m mmA ^ i S y \}M » ■L' Yorkshire, ] Veg. Foss., however, is pinnules ar« In its ge which I hat piiinnlcs ma 4. SPHEN Descripli rowing at tfi iii^e, from tl Fig. 2 u- ...I'lmrently i and gracelii (!(;scribed. 'j. Glossc aid S6, of t \'ig. Foss., Vorkshire, \ Descripti ihe base am C 174] 306 ■m m I ' but the same feature may be observed in some fia^ed by Brongniart him self. ^ 6. Pecopteris undulata. PI. 1, figs. 1, 1 «. (Nos. 83 and llSofcoU lection.) Descriplion. — Frond bipinnate; rachis slender; pinna) long, slightly o!j. iique to tlie rachis, opposite and alternate ; pinnules oblique, oval-ovate, broad at tiie base, and the lower ones sometinios lobed, gradually becoming coadunatc towards the extremity of the pinna3. The pinnules have often an apparently continuous smooth outline; but, on closer examination, they appear undulaled,or indented upon the margin; and many of them are obviously so. 7. Pecopteris undulata ; var. PI. 1, figs. 2, 2 a, 2 b. (No. 78 of co,- lection.) Description. — Frond bipinnate f rachis slender ; pinnae nimierous, Ions, and gradually tapering, oblique to the rachis; piiniules oval-ovate, broa^l at base; midrib evanescent; nervulcs strong, bifurcating towards the apox; margins lobed or indented, particularl" in those near the base of the piiina\ This species may be regarded as 1^ variety of the last, though the pin- nules are longer and less brood proportionally; but the general aspect i> similar, and the habit of the plaiit precisely the same. The specimen fig. 2 b can oniy be regarded as an extreme variety of ilvj same species, which is npproached in some of the enlarged piimulos, a^ fig. 2 a. S. Pecopteris (?) odontopteroides. PI. 1, figs. 3 and 4. (Nos. 78 and 118 of collection.) Description. — Frond bipinnate? pinna; long and slender; secondary pinnas sub-distant, gradually tapering, nearly perpendicular; pinnules sub- rotund, obtuse, small, approximate, oblique, alternate, and coadunate at base; nervules strong, diverging from base ; no distinct midrib. Fig. 4. A few of the pinnae near the termination of a frond. The arrangement of the pinnules and nerves in this species strongly le minds one of the Odontopteris Schlntheimii^ Brong. Hist. Veg. Foss., p. 256, t. 78, fig. 5 — a fossil fern of the Pennsylvania coal measures ; but this is essentially ditferent. The aspect of the three la^t-named plants is more like that of the true coal-measure ferns than any of the others; but the whole association, and ^their fossil condition, demand that they should be referred to a very modern period. New genus — tiuchopteris. Character. — Frond slender, t*,3xuous, in tufts or single, branching or pinnate ; branches long, very slender. 9. Trichopteris pilamentosa. pi. 2, fig. 6. (No. 78 of collection.) Compare Fucoides sequalisj Brong. Hist. Veg. Fcss., p. 58, t. 5, ligs. 3 and 4. Description. — Frond pinnate or bipinnate; rachis long, and almost equal- iy slender throughout; branches numerous, regular, alternr.te, simple, elongated, very slender, and ilexuous. The branches are frp-^uently folded back upon tnemselves, and undulated, lying like the finest thread upon the surface of the stone. This species is very delicate and graceful, and can scarcely be examined without the aid of r Brongniart him- I and 118 of col. long, Slightly olj- lique, oval-ovate, adually becoming )oth outline ; but, upon the margin; •. (No. 78 of col- ; numerous, loii^, oval-ovate, broa«l owards the apex: )ase of the pinim.\ t, though the pin- I general aspect i> sme variety of ilv:; irged piuiuilcs, as 1 4. (Nos. 78 and ;nder; secondary ar; pinnules sub- md coadunate at midrib, frond. )ecies strongly re- st. Veg. Foss., p. leasures; but this J that of the true e association, and . to a very modern igle, branching or 78 of collection.) 5,t.5,iigs. 3and4. , and almost equal- alternUe, simple, 'es, and undulated, ). This species is withotUtheaidof I"! f ■ r. ^1 ft j'tti- ■•> t- ' :¥« m ni -|.;(i § '^"***»a«l».: 'im. mm a magnifier. Tl I 10. TrICHOF'] ™— ^Description.- braiiches nuniaf This species ij to the same gem fern stems, strij branches, and p( the parts, forbid in a new genus. 11. Stems op The stems of J remaining. Grt of leaves and otl 12. Leap op 17, and No. 201 Description.- rib straight, disti nate points. This leaf has proaches remote m of Brongniar a.dHutton. Tl isfactory compar Locality, in tl fossils, and regai tion. The rock very unlike the ] Figure) Pigura Figure Figurei 13. Mya TXU nus; Phillips'a C lection.) Description.— Ae extremity ; a marked only by prominent. The specimen of a smaller spec cimen, larger tha the hinge broker Locality in lo * The species, wlw 307 C 174 3 a magnifier. This fossil is ve^-y similar to the Fucoides sequat'is of Brong., 5l'i^giP,lK^<5^*^^>) excepi that the branches are longer and undivided, 10. Trichopteris »*^te«B^fij^ PI. 1, fig. 5. (No. 84 of collection.) ^Description. — Slender, stems '^iiii^e^lious, flexu»us, in a tuft, branched; branches nuniti^o^a?,•^«^;'»-i^.•ar oblique, si5fHi§fir than in the last species. This species is more robust than the uiat de^^iiibed, but evidently belongs to the same genus. I had first supposed that this migh^ be a coUectioa of fern stems, stripped of their foliage; but their slender suucture, Io»g branches, and peculiar arrangement, with the appropriate proportion of all the parts, forbid its reference to any thing of this kind ; it is therefore placed in a new genus. 11. Stems op perns. PI. 1, fig. 7. The stems of ferns, denuded of leaves, and portions only of the branches remaining. Great numbers of these stems occur, mingled with fragments of leaves and other portions of ferns still perfect. 12. Leap op a dycotyledonous plant. (?) PI. 2, fig. 4. (Fr. Aug. 17, and No. 201 of collection.) Description. — Leaf ovate-lanceolate, lobed, lobes acute, mucronate; mid- rib straight, distinct, dichotomous; principal divisions going to the mucro> nate points. This leaf has the aspect of the leaf of a dicotyledonous plant, and ap- proaches remotely only to the character of species of the genus Phlebopte- m of Brongniart, which are regarded as such by Phillips, and by Lindley a. d Hutton. Tb«^ specimen was not observed soon enough to make a sat- isfactory comparison. Locality, in the neighborhood of the specimens containing i j'l preceding fossils, and regarded by Captain Fremont as belonging to the _.. ne forma- tion. The rock containing them is a soft or very partially indurated clay, very unlike the hard and brittle mass containing the other species. Plate IIL Fossil shells, &c. Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7, are from longitude 111°, latitude 40^. Figures 11, 12, and 13, are from longitude 111**, latitude 4^o. Figures 8, 9, and 10, are from longitude 115", latitude 43°. Figures 14 and 15, leaves, from longitude 122°, latitude 46|°. 13. Mta txujkoides.* PI. 3, figs. 1 and 2. Compare unio peregri" nus; Phillips's Gcol. Yorkshire, pi. 7, fig. 12. (Nos. 8, 28, and 32, of col- lection.) Description. — Ovate, posterior side extended, slope gentle, rounded at the extremity ; anterior side regularly rounded ; surface nearly smooth, or marked only by lines of growth ; beaks slightly wrinkled ; moderatcl^r prominent. The specimen fig. 1 is an entire shell ; fig. 2 is a cast of the two values of a smaller specimen, retaining a small portion of the shell. Another spe- cimen, larger than either of these, presents the inside of bot'.i valvesj^ with. the hinge broken. Locality in longitude 111°, latitude 40°, in slaty bitun^inuus limestooe. * The species, where no authority is given, are regarded as new, and will be so understood. I I'lia " lrl|.i '■ fa. ' 5 '• s'ffl r !ii m iW till [ 174] 308 m n' \ 14. NucuLA Impressa (?) G. PI. 3, fig. 3. (No. 32 of collection.) Description. — Sub-elliptical; posterior extremity somewhat expanded* surface smooth. A few of the teeth are still visible on the anterior hinge margin, but the greater part of the hinge line is obscured. Locality in longitude 111°, latitude 40°, in slaty bituminous limestone. 15. Cytherea pabvula. PI. 3, figs. 10 and 10 a. (No. 21 of collec- tion.) Compare Isocardia angulata ? Phillips's Geol. Yorkshire, pi. 9, fig. 9. Description. — Ovate trigonal ; umbones elevated ; beaks incurved ; sur- face marked by regular concentric Hues of growth ; umbones and beaks with a few stronger wrinkles. The umbones of this shell are scarcely di- verging or involute enough to place it in the genus Isocardia, where it would otherwise very naturally belong. Locality in longitude 115°, latitude 43°, in gray argillaceous limestone. Two other specimens of the same shell were noticed. 16. Pleurotomaria uiviangulata. pi. 3, figs. 4 and 5. (Nos. S and "32 of collection. ) Description. — Turbinate ; whorls, about six, gradually enlarging ; con- vex below, and angular above ; suture plain ; s jrface marked by fine lines of growth. Aperture round-oval; shell thin, fragile. The specimens are all imperfect, and more or less crushed ; the figures, however, are good representations of the fossil. It is readily distinguished by its fine lines of growth, resembling a species of Helix, and by the an- gular character of the upper part of each whorl. Locality in longitude 111°, latitude 40°, in a dark slaty bituminous jimestone. 17. Cebithium tenerum. pi. 3, figs. 6, 6 a. (Nos. 8, 32, ari 34, of collection.) Description. — Elongated, subulate ; whorls, about ten, marked with strong ridges, which are again crossed by finer lines in the direction of the whorls. The strong vertical ridges are often obsolete on the last whorl, as in fig. 6 a, and the spiral lines much stronger. This shell is very strongly marked, and its external aspect is sufficient to distinguish it : it is easily fractured, and, from the nature of the matrix, it has been impossible to obtain a specimen exhibiting the nouth perfectly. Locality, same as the preceding. 18. Cerithium Fhemonti. pi. 3, figs. 7, 7 a. (No. 28 of collection.) Description. — Shell terete, ovate, acute ; whorls, about nine, convex ; summit of each one coronated ; surface marked by regular rows of pustu- lar knobs, often with smaller ones between ; beak small, sharp ; mouth not visible in the specimen. This is a very b^'autifully marked shell, with the summit of each whorl crowned with a rowSsvf short spines. Locality, same as thep.ecedlng. 19. Natica (?) occiDENTALfs, PL 3, figs. 8, 8 a. (Nos. 16 and 21 ol' collection.) '•. Description. — Depressed, conical,'f;, sub-globose ; spire short, consisiaig of about five whorls, the last one compri^irig the greater part of the shell; aperture semi-oval, rounded at both extrermti^s ; umbilicus small. Surface marked by lines of growth. "^s V. Ni yas lituestone. distinguished lid by the an- y bituminous J2, arl 34, of marked with irection of the last whorl, as is sufficient to the matrix, it ith perfectly. of each whorl 16 and 21 of ort, consisting t of the shell ; mall. Surface rOSSlL SHELLS. n I// OHl'.CON AM' NOHTU CAI.inmNIA i I ■A »i / 1 F f. W.-t.' h I There is a shell. Ther was a little e iiiubiliciis is i Locality ii 20. TURRI Description ed byadoubl Tlio specim ina;. Several Locality, SI 21. Ceriti] of collection.) Descriptior about seven ; marked by c growth. Wh The arched it is marked b Fig. 1 1 is a oftlie same sp part, while it i Loculity in sione, 22. Turbo ] Description mouth roiind-c arched stria in A small port l)iit it is retain( oolite, associat sembles Palua Locality, sai 23. Leaves The specime long to a very i Locality, Ca 24. Inocera: and3S,ofcoliec tab. 442. Description. by immerous m short and obtuse In thi old sp the beak.s ; whi ticularly so tow and the whole 309 C 174] There is a single perfect specimen and several casts of this delicate little shell. The mouih is not entire, but enough remains to show that the lip was a little expanded ; but whether the columella covered a part of the unibilicus is uiiCertain. Locality in longitude 115°, latitude 43°, in a gray siliceous limestone. 20. TURRITELLA BILINEATA. PI. 3, fig. 9. (No. 21 of COlleCtioU.) Descriptinn. — Elongated,subulate, spire rapidly ascending; whorls mark- ed bv a double, elevated, spiral line, which is notched in the lower whorls. The specimen figured is imperfect, only the upper part of the shell remain- ins. Several casts of the same species occur in the specimens. Locality, same as the preceding. 21. Cerithium nodulosum. pi. 3, figs. 11 and 12. (Nos. 64, 68, and 74, of collection.) Description. — Elongated, subulate ; spire rapidly ascending ; whorls about seven ; the sutures marked by a spiral band ; surface of whorls marked by curved striae, or elevated lines, in the direction of the lines of growth. Whorls carinated with a row of protuberances along the centre. The arched lines of growth are more distinct upon the last whorl, and it is marked beneath by a few spiral lines. Fig. 11 is a perfect specimen. Fig. 12. The left-hand figure is a cast of the same species; the right-hand figure retains the shell upon the upper part, while it is removed from the lower part. Lomlity in longitude 111°, Idtitude 41i°,in yellowish-gray oolitic lime- stone, 22. Turbo paludin^pormis. PI. 3, fig. 13. (No. 64 of collection.) Description. — Whorls, about four, rapidly enlarging, convex, smooth ; mouth round-oval; columella slightly reflected; volutions marked by fine arched stria? in the direction of the lines of growth. A small portion only of the shell remains upon the specimen figured, but it is retained in the matrix. This fossil occurs in gray or yellowish oolite, associated with Cerithium nodulosum, and other shells. It re- sembles Palndina in form. Locality f same as the preceding. 23. Leaves op dicotyledonous plants. PI. 3, figs. 14 and 15. The specimens have not been satisfactorily identified, but doubtless be- long to a very modern tertiary depoc^ite. Locality, Cascades of the Columbia river. 24. Inoceramus Plate IV. ? PI. 4, figs. 1 and 1 a. (Nos. 26, 29, 31, 33, and 3S, of collection.) Compare Inoceramus mytiloides, Sow. Min. Con., tab. 442, Description. — Inequavalved, depressed, and elongated ; surface marked by numerous waved lines and rfdges; convex towards the beaks ; beaks short and obtuse, somewhat obsolete in old specimens; hinge line oblique. In thn old specimens^ the shell appears much flattened, except towards the beaks; while in the younger specimens it is more convex, and par- ticularly so towards the beaks. The youngest specimens are finely lined, and the whole surface of one valve quite convex. I'l r? .M rl i ;^ £ 174] 310 If ii' i This fossil apparently exists in great numbers, as in the specimens ex- amined there were i'ldividuals in all stages of growth, though luostlv broken or separated valves. The same species was collected by the late Mr. Nicollet, near the Great Bend of the Missouri. Localiti/, Smoky Hill river, longitude 98°, latitude 38", in yellowish and gray limestone of the cretaceous formation. 25. IxooERAMirs ? PI. 4, fig. 2. (No. 42 of collection.) Compare Inoceramus involttlus, Sow. Min. Con., tab. 583. Description. — Semicircular; surface flat, with the margin deflected- marked by sirong, regular concentric ridges, which become attenuated on either side, and are nearly obsolete towards the beak ; beak of one valve small, not elevated; hinge line nearly rectangular. The strong concentric ridges distinguish this fossil from any other species. The specimen figured is probably the flat valve, as a fragment oi' a large and much more convex valve accompanies this one, from the same locality. The shell naTiiciiiarly towards the margiUi is very thick and fibrous. Local. 08 ♦he eastern slope of the Rocky mountains, in longitude 105°, latitL 39 , a light yellowish-gray limestone, probably of the creta- ceous formauon. Note. — The specimens figured on plate III, Nos. 1, 2, 4, 5, and 6, have the appearance of fluviatile shells, and would have been so regarded but for the occurrence of fig. 3, which appears to be a Nucula, and fig. 7, in the same association, the sculpturing of which is unlike ai\y of the Melania known to me. It is not improbable, however, that this may prove a iresh- water deposite of vast interest, as it appears to be of great extent, and oc- curs at a great elevation. The researches of Capt. Fremont, in his future exploratiotis, will doubtless set this question at rest, by a larger collection of fossils from the same region. J: I- IE FO SSIL SHELLS /'/. /^ Ij R .t I (•U I'C.ON .\M) NOIMM rAlU'nWMA ^-< I '.( I. 'J « 1 iii^'ti I,:? - \..\i lif J v: ^j . il ; |,;M '■'f ; ■ .,»f' ii rJm, ■f 'ij i' 4 '" '■ '■» '.fMy «*' *i iili»!'^^'' #iBi .;■ i «r^iJ|H 1 y^ NOTE CONC. W'liPii Cn[)t;uii Oilier nicaii8 lor nti wf nhoulil, ronjoii 1,400 RpwicH woi lonxequencp, how the prty were cx[ borderH of the Mi he reiiched the l)oi many itiHtaiices, it dent time before t his collection, it hi the plants which v which he has just The loss RUHtair le partly made up again, and some n rollections will l>e iiifs the expedition iioii will be given are employed for ft ■ Descriptions tain J. C. i fornia, in I BranchiDg 1 style filiform. Annual, stei in the axils. the leaflets 4— above, sparse! upper part of i than the coroll lanceolate, obi exserted; antl ^'vary on a loi On the Ame are not in fruii 10 be a Cleom: 311 [ 174] C. I VOTE CONCERNING THE PLANTS COLLECTED IN THE SECOND EXPEDI- TION OF CAPTAIN FREMONT. 4 When Captain Fremont wet out on his second cx|)t'Jition, he won well |irovi(I»'(l with japcr nnd other means lur making extcnnive hotaiiiciil cuilectionH; and it woh underxtuud tliat, on hiH return, we ibouid, conjointly, prepare a full account of his plants, to lie appended to his report. About I 400 sppcioH were collected, many of them in regions not Iwforc explored by any botanist. In iWii*qucnrc, however, of the great length of the journey, and the numcrouM accidentH to which ihc party were cxptned, but CHpecialiy owing to the dreadful flood of the Kansaw, which deluged the borders of the Mifisour^nd MisKi8rti[)pi rivers, more than half of his specimens were ruined before he reached the borders V civilization. Even the portion saved was greatly damaged; so that, in many instanccH, it has been extremely difl'uult to determine the plants. As there was not suffi- cient lime before the publication of Captain Fremont's report for the proper study of the remains of his collection, it has been deemed advisable to reserve the greater part of them to incorporate with ihe plants which we exjwct he will i)ring with him on returning from his third expedition, upon ivhich he has just set out. The loss sustained by Captain Fremont, and, I may say, by the botanical world, will, we trust, le partly made u[) the present and next seasons, as much of the same country will be passed over mm, and some new regions explored. Arrangementjj have also been made, l)y which the botanical (ollections will l>c jjreservcd, at least from the destructive cllects of water; and a jicrson accompa- nies the ex[)edition, who Ib to make drawings of all the most interesting plants. Particular atten- tion will be given to the forest trees and the vegetable productions that are useful in the arta, or that are employed for food or medicine. JOHN TORREY. ■ ,;i.;:; Descriptions of some new genera and species of plants, collected in Cap' tain J. C. Fremont's exploring expedition to Oregon and North Cali- fornia, in the years lS43-'44: Bi/ John Torrey and J. C. Frhnont. Cleomella (?) OBTUSiPOLiA. Tovr. and Frvm. • Branching from the base, and diffuse ; leaflets cuneate-obovate, obtuse; ^tyle filiform. Annual, stem smooth, the branches spreading, about a span long, hairy in the axils. Leaves, or petioles, an inch or more in length ; the lamina of the leaflets 4 — 6 hnes long, apiculate with a deciduous bristle, nearly smooth above, sparsely strigose underneath. Pedicels solitary and axillary, in the upper part of the branches, longer than the petioles. Calyx rauch shorter than the corolla ; the sepals lacerately 3 — Stoothed. Petals yellow, oblong- lanceolate, obtuse, about 3 lines in length. Stamens 6, unequal, a little exserted; anthers linear-oblong, recurved when old. Torus hemispherical. "vary on a long slender stipp, obovate; style longer than the ovary. On the American fork of the Sacramento river ; March. The specimens are not in fruit, so that we cannot be certain as to the genus ; but it seems to be a CleomsUa. '.f I :«' ' ^ ti- r^ 'ii [ 174 ] 312 Mr:(OM;r,i,.\ CAMFonMCA. 7orr. uml Frim. jjoavcs ohoviitc'-spatiilate ; slariioiis II — 12. C.'r the Aim'ricaii Cork oi lliu Sacraiiientn rivnr. Tpis species is iiitc-nncdiatc l)elwe valves, which separate from the persistent placenta). Seeds oblong, smooth, strophiolate. — A pe- rennial herb, with a thick woody root. Leaves numerous, mostly crowded about the root, tlabelliform-cnneafe, densely clothed with long gray up- wardly barbellate hairs, 3 — 5 lobed at rh'; smnmit ; the lobes with 2--:; teeth, which are tipped with a rigid pungent upwardly scabrous bristle. Stem scape-like, about a foot high, t\irnished about the middle with one or two small bract-like leaves, smooth above, rough towards the base. Flow- ers in a loose, somewhat umbellate, simple or somewhat compound panicle: the peduncles elongated, erect. Petals about an inch long, yellow. AiuTOMEcoN Californickm. '/>)?•?'. (171(1 Frhn. This remarkable plant was found in only a single station in the Caliior- nian mountains, on the banks of a creek ; iiowering early in May. The soil was sterile and gravelly. Although very near Papaver, it dilfcrs so •much in habit and in the strophiolate seeds, as well as in other characters, that it must be a distinct genus. Krameria. A shrubby species of this genus was found on tlie Virgen river, in Califor- nia. It seems to be K. parvifulia of Bentham, described in the Voyage of the Sulphur. Ilis plant, liowever, was only in fruit, while our specimens are only in Hower. Ours grows in thick bunches 1 — 2 feet high, of a gray aspect, with numerous very straggling and somewhat spinescent branches. Leaves scarcely one-third of an inch long,obovate-spatulate. The flowers are scarcely more than half as large as in K. lanceolata. Sepals 5, un- equal ; claws of the Supper petals united into a column below; lamina more or less ovate ; the two lower petals short and truncate. Stamens shorter than the upper petals; the filaments united at the base with the column of the petals : anthers one-celled, with a membranaceous summit. the orifice of which is somewhat dilated, and finally lacerated. Ovary hairy andspinulose; style rigid, declined. OxYSTVLis. Torr. and Frem. — n. gen. Sepals linear ; petals ovate, somewhat unguiculate ; ovary 2-celled ; the cells subglobose, each with two^ ovules: style pyramidal, much larger thau IIO'IWM rinlr II fy^'^ii'Mia. 1(1, iu rosiilaiecius. . Tilt* tlowers clioizia, is vi'iy J, ohovato, le:;. opening loiijji- •luuiy narrow u small lioiii- posiic the pla. ovoid, the pla. kvliicli separate liiolate.— Ape- iKistly crowded ong gray up. >bes with 2—:) ;abrous bristle. lie with one or le baso. Flow, pound panicle: yellow. rt. ill the Calilor. ill M:iy. The er, it dilFers so lier characters, iver, in Califor- the Voyage of our specimens ligh, of a gray cent branches. The flowers Sepals 5, un- lelow ; lamina ate. Stamens base with the 360118 summit, rated. Ovarv 2-celled; the ch larger than i* hyKW-h- . /fr/r ////'/y // C/A -ii''li ////"///// i,'F,,#ABiS'i.' ihe ovary. (or rarely two- lent subulate s soniewhai coir and aeshy. ( placenta!.— A petioles; the luuneroiis axil fi On the Marj but abundant i and were in b( A rather sto a little branchi of tlowers aboi shorter than th Petak. about r carpels, which pointed style. This remarl< The clusters o; styles, present Flowers hei petalled, much in a double sei of a stipe, eac Gugi^ia capitat( unitei' below, Seeds c.irvcd, inferior. Eml A shrub of simple, very sr dark purple, it matic odor, an though nearly grows in the j: California, T Branches ai nn! a single pi what coriaceo rolla three tim twisted into a A tree abou branches decli 313 [174] ■ 'J lliu ovary. Silicle didymous: the carpels obovoid-globose, one-seeded, (or rarely two-seeded,) indehiscent, separating from the base of the persis- tent subulate spinescent style: pericarp criistaceo-coriaceous. Seed ovate, somewhat compressed ; testa membranaceous, the lining much thickened and fleshy. Cotyledons incumbent, linear-oblong; radicle opposite the placenta!. — A smooth annual herb. Leaves ternately parted, on long petioles; the leaflets ovate or oblong, entire i^etiolulate. Flowers in numerous axillary crowded short capitate racemes, small and yellow. OxYSTyi^is LUTEA. ToYT. and Frtm. On the Margoza rivtJi, at the foot of a sandy hill; only seen in one place, but abundant there. The specimens were collected on the 28th of April, and were in both flower and fruit. A rather stout plant; the stem erect, a foot or 15 inches high, simple or a little branching below, lea:fy. Leaflets 1 — W inch long, obtuse. Heads oftlowers about lialf an inch in diameter, not elongating in fruit. Calyx shorterihan the corolla; the sepals acute, yellowish, tipped with orange. Petak about two lines long. Fruit consisting of two roundish indehiscent carpels, which at maturity separate by a small base, leaving the indurated poiutod style. The epicarp is thin, membranaceous, and slightly corrugated. This remarkable plant seems Xo coiinect Cruciferfe with Capparidaceae. The clusters of old flower stalks, with their numerous crowded spinescent styles, present a singular appearance. Thamnosma. Tor r. and Frim. — n. gen. Flowers hermaphrodite, (or polygamous?) Calyx 4-cleft. Corolla 4- petalled, much longer than the calyx ; the aestivation valvate. Stamens 8, ill a double series, all fertile. Ovaries 2, sessile and connate at the summit of a stipe, each with 5 or 6 ovules in 2 series; styles united into one : 3;ig;Ma capitate. Capsules 2, sessile at the summit of the stipe, subglobose, iinitet' below, (one of them sometimes abortive,^ coriaceous, 1 — 3-seeded. Seeds C'lrvcd, with a short beak, black and minutely wrinkled; the radicle inferior. Embryo curved ; cotyledons broadly linear, incumbent. Thamnosma Montana. ,Torr and Frim. A shrub of the height of one or two feet, branching from the base, with simple, very small linear wedge-shaped leaves. The flowers are apparently dark purple, in loose terminal clusters. The whole plant has a strong aro- matic odor, and every part of it is covered with little glandular dots. Al- though nearly allied to Xanthoxylum, we regard it as a peculiar genus. It grows in the passes of the mountains, and on the Virgen river in Northern California. The greater part of it was already in fruit in the month of May. Prosopis odorata. Torr. and Frim. Branches and leaves smooth; spines stout, mostly in pairs, straight; pin" 118! a single pair ; leaflets 6 — & pairs, oblong-linear, slightly falcate, some- what coriaceous, rather obtuse ; spikes elongated, on short peduncles : co~ rolla three times as long as the calyx ; stamens exserted ; legume spirally twisted into a compact cylinder. A tree about 20 feet high, with a very broad full head, and the lower branches declining to the ground; the thorns*3ometimes more than an inch sni 111 :;)l V ^^ ■"■■ H "<^? .%■ B\ ■In' *i,t C 17*] 314 ! m^ h '^'■^ long. Leaves smooth ; the common petiole 1 — 2 inches long, and terminated by a spinescent point; leaflets from half an inch to an inch long, and l— i lines broad, somewhat ooricaceous, sparingly but prominently veined under', neath. Spikes 2 — 4 inches long, and about one-third of an incli in diameter Flowers yellow, very fragrant, nearly sessile on the rachis. C^lyxcam- panulate, somewhat equally 5-toothed, smooth. Petals ovate-ob ng,hairy inside. Stamens 10,oneftiird longer than the corolla. Anthers tipped with asUghtlystipitategland. Ovary linear-oblong, villous; style sinootli; stigma capitate, concave at the extremity. Legumes clustered, spirallv ti UeJ into a very close rigid cylinder, which j from an inch to an inch und i half long, and about two lines in diameter, forming from ten to tliirtoeii (urns many seeded. Sarcocarp pulpy ; the two opposite sides of the firm undo- carp are compressed together between the seeds, forming a longitudinal kind of septum, which divides the pulp into two parts. Seeds ovate, kidney-form, compressed, very stnooth and hard. Embryo yellowish, surroimded with a thin albumen. A characteristic tree in the mountainous part of Norlhen\ California, par- ticularly along the Mohahve and V^irgen rivers, flowering the latter part of April. This species belongs to the section siromhocarpa of JNIr. l^tintham,* which includes the Jicacia strombiiUfcra of Wildeiiow. In the stractur<; of the pod it is so remarkable that we at one time regarded it as a distinct genus, to which we gave the name of Spirolobium. There are tmmerons other Leguminosa3 in the collection, including, as might be expected, many species of Lupinus, Astragalus, Oxylropis, and Phaca, some of which are new ; also, Thermopsis rhombifolia and nion- tana, and a beautiful shrubby Pooralea (or some allied genus) covered with bright violet flowers. CoWANIA PtICATA. D. DoiU {?) Specimens of this plant, without a ticket, were in the collection; doubt- l - -veil that it should jjcrhaps be reg^rdcd as a distinct species. (Enothera cLAVi*:P0RMis. Torr. and Frim. Leaves ovate or oblong, denticulate or toothed, pinnatified at the base, with a long naked petiole; scape with several small leaves, 8 — 12-tiowere(l: segments of the calyx longer than the tube ; capsules clavatc-cylindrical, nearly twice as long as the pedicel. Flowers about as large as in (K.jni- niila. Grows with the prececiiiig. * In Hooker's Journal ol Botany, iv, p. 351. ig, and terminated ch long, and I-.2 nily veined under' 1 inch in diameter. :his. C-lyxcam^ valo-ol, ng, hairy iithers tipped with lesinootli; stigma J, spirally t) 'Lted m inch and i halt- to thirteen (urns oi" the firm undo' longitudinal kind ^ate, kidney-form, urroundedwitha rn California, |)ar- the latter part o[ f Mr. Bcntharn,* III the structure ed it as a distinct ion, including, as s, ()xytro|.is,~'a!)d ibifolia and nion- lus) covered with ollection; doubt- spectes from the are described by s very nearly al- imerous ovaries, and not valvate, ?lier. era! parts of the d California. It uile ornamental. er waters of the s be regarded as n. ified at the base, 3 — 12-riowered; vate-cylindrical, ij'e as in CE. pu- BOTAXY Phitv 1 'r^^^' Lull Ik F WHit- 1 11 HjluniMiT M -i r 1 r//^/ •"*«♦■ N i> 315 [ 174] This new species bclongi) to 'd}e section Chylisrnia of Nutt. ( T'orr, and '^■Jl.i'^.^lm. \,p. 506.) %. (Enothera deltoidesj"., Torr. and Fran, Annual ; caiiescetitly strigope ; stem low ?nd stout; leaves rhifinuiovate, jepaiidly denticulate, acute ; flowers (large) clustered at the suuiinit of the [liortstem; tube of the calyx nearly twice the length of the segments; pe- als entire, one-third longer than the slightly declined stamens ; anthers very loiig, fixed by the middlu; stylo exserted; capsules prismatic cylindrical. Allied to CE. Jamesii, Torr. and Gr., and belongs, like that species, to [be section Euocnothera and sub-section Onagra. (Enothera cANEscENs. Torr. and Fr em. Strigosely canescent ; leaves narrowly lanceolate, rather obtuse, romotely Ueiiticulate ; flowers in a loafy raceme; tube of the calyx rather sloider, jlhree times as long as the ovary, ajid one-third longer than the segments ; feials broadly ovate, entire. This species was collected ( we believe) on the upper waters of the Platte. 6i belongs to the section Euoenothera, and to a sub-section which may be railed Gauropsis, and characterized as follows : Perennial diffuse herbs ; lube of tlje calyx linear ; capsule obovate, sessile, with 4-winged angles y no intermediate ribs, tardily opening; seeds numerous^ horizontal ; the [testa membranaceous ; leaves opaque. Besides the.se new species, many otherCEnotherse were collected; among I'lvliich may be mentioned CE. albkaulis, alyasoides, montana^ aijd Mis- \mimnsi.s. A Iso, Gayophytu w 'dijfusiim, (from the Snake country, grow- ling about 2 feet high.) Slenosiphon virgaHtm, and Gaura coccinca. CoMPOSITJE. The plants of this family were placed in the hands of Dr. Gray for ex- eiiiination •; and he has described some of them (Including four new gen- lera)in the Boston Journal of Natural History for January, 1845. He has jsiiice ascertained another new genus among the specimens; and we fully jconcur with him in the propriety of dedicating it to the late distingu' .hed jl, X. Nicollet, Esq., who spent several years in exploring the countr; wa Itered by the Mississippi and Missouri rivers, and who was employed by the lUiiited States Government in a survey of the region lying between the Isoiiroes of those rivers. This gentleman exerted himself to make. known jihe botany of the country which he explored, and brought home with him jan interesting collection of plants, made under his direction, by Mr. Charles [Geyer, of which an account is given in the report of Mr. N, The foliow- 112 is the description of this genus by Dr. Gray: • NicoLLETiA. Gray. "Heads heterogamous, with few rays,many flowered. Involucre campan- late, consisting of about S oval membranaceous scales in a single series ; the jbase calyculate, with one or two smaller scales. Receptacle convex, alveo- jiaie. Corolla of the disk flowers equally 5-toothed. Branches of the style lerminated by a subulate hisped appendage. Achenia elongated, slender, jwnescently pubescent. Pappus double, scarcely shorter than the corroUa ; jiiieex'fiiior of nutnerous scabvous, unequal bristles ; tht inner of 5 linear- hM H ,;^ # •** r • M it ' m:H< ^>ji If ,:5 [ 174] 316 lanceolate chartV scales, which are entire, or 2-toothed at the summit an furnished with a strong central nerve, which is produced into a short scj brous awn. — A humble, branching (and apparently annual) herb. Leavd alternate, pinnatified, and somewhat fleshy, (destitute of glands?); thelobd and rachis linear. Heads terminal, solitary, nearly sessile, large, (about 1 inch long, ) with one or two involucrato leaves at the base. Corolla yellowj NicoLLETiA occiDENTALis. Gray, On the banks of the Mohahve river, growing in naked sands; llowprm in April. The plant has a powerful and rather agreeable odor. Thisiij teresting genus (which is described from imperfect materials) belongs to tb tribe Senecionide;e, and the sub-tribe Tagitine^. It has the habit Dissodia, and exhibits both the chaffy pappus of the division Tae statedrJicre, that lae notice of lhi» genus by Dr. Gray was drawn up in Latin: b^ we have given it in Snglish, that it may be uniform with our own descriptions. d at the summit, uced into a sliort i mual) herb. Leav't )f glands?); the lob] ssile, largo, (about L se. Corolla yellow, fed sands; tlowprin, 3able odor. This i] terials) belongs to tli It has the habit ivisioii Tiifrete;p, ai it jent on both sides, i nd somewhat lobej I, if • *?-f'i 6 flowers 5 — 7-clefl owered. IBS. Leaves scarcell nih straight soft la{ te. very common in ,S ! ^eni. ence; leaves lanceoB f^'^'' ill iof the calyx laiicecj [ .^ Vr 3' f\\ •dy, below simple u^ . 1 -^ „(, atulate, or reduced I from 4 to 8 lines rather dense, somd 3t' an inch long. Caj to the base ; the sed icose above; theseg lort ; anthers ovata )ove, smooth; stylj r at the base. Hit they were proba ire without fruit. | y • Voi-k, \i,p. 21?. asii of Hooker, we| lasa wide range, ba from the sources The fruit was collecL ^. _^_ It is ahnost exactly ered with soft spinej ras drawn up in Latin; 1 iptions. noTAX) / /,u< lA '.-), ///// /^// rr/////rffM'f-) //07:i.V) //.Urffl 317 AcERATEs LATiFOLiA. Torr. and Frhn. [ "4] Stem simple, erect, smooth ; leaves roundish ovate, nearly sessile, obtuse, iiihasmall mucro, smooth on both sides; umbel solitary, on a terminal diincle, few-flowered ; pedicels slender ; segments of the corolla ovate- joeolate: lobes of the crown semihmar-ovate, as long as the column, Biher obtuse, cucullate. On Green river, a tributary of the Colorado of the West; June. About a Bin high. Leaves abv^ut an inch and a half long, and more than an inch ^ide. Flowers few, very large, apparently yellowish. Fruit not seen. Eriooonum inplatum. Torr. and Frem. Sinoolh, bi-trichotomous; the lower part, and sometimes the two primary jivisions of the stem, much inflated and clavate; peduncles divaricately (ranched, the ultimate divisions filiform and solitary; involucre few flow- [rei smooth ; the teeth equal, erect. The specimens of this plant are imperfect, being destitute of leave?, I are probably wholly radical. It is a foot or more high. The first U of the stem, or rather scape, is remarkably dilated and fistular up- fcard. This divideff into three or more branches, the two primary ones of fhich are sometimes inflated like the first; the subdivisions are dichoto- ous, with a pedicellate involucre in each fork. The involucres are about [line in diameter, smooth, 5 — 6-fiowered; ana, in all the specimens thai I lamiiied, only 5-toothed. The plant was found on barren hills in the ^»er psit of North California. Eriooonum kemforme. Torr. and Frem, Annual ; leaves radical, on long petioles, reniform, clothed with a dense cary tomentum ; stem scape-like, naked, 3-forked from the base, glaucous, Ed nearly smooth ; the divisions divaricately 2 — 3-forked ; involucres 2 — 4 jisether, ou slender peduncles, smooth, campanulate, 5-toothed, the teeth ily equal, obtuse ; perigonium smooth. [On the Sacramento river; March. Allied to E. vimineum of Benthani. Ismail species, with very minute flowers. Eriooonum cordalum. Torr. and Frem. Annual; leaves all radical, on long petioles, roundish-ovate, cordate, jsry obtuse, slightly pubescent above, hairy underneath; scape naked, jetider, smooth and glaneous, divaricately branched, the divisions slender; |volacres solitary, on filiform peduncles, campanulate, smooth, 5-toothed, I teeth nearly equal, rather obtuse; perigonium hairy. h^ththe preceding, from which it is easily distinguished by th« form of icaves and color of the pubescence. I Many other species of this genus were collected in California and the to country, some of which aro probably new, and will be described in piitxt report. FuEMONTiA VERMTcuLARis. Torr. in Frtm. 1st report. [Tliis curious plant is always found in saline soils, or where the atmo- "isre is saline. Its greatest licij^lit is eight fecf. It vs a characteristic i'ea- "uiithe vegetation throtiylioiit a groat part of Oregon and North Cali- fiiia. About Brovvirs Hole, on Green river, it occupios almost exclusively ff ''Ottoms of the neii^'liboriiig streamy. It is abundant also on the shores 1 4 '■..iD' - ■ .' J. >' U 'W: ll" t: •'. ( ft: '»■ \ [ 174 ] 318^ of a salt lake in lat. 38° and long. 113°; and constantly occurs in the des.r region south of the Columbia, and between the Cascade range and thol Rocky mountains, as far south as lat. 34°. The brunches, when old, hJ come spiny, as in many other plants of this family. Since the description of this genus was published in the first report (March, 1S43,) Necs has given it the name of Sarcouatus; and Dr. Seu, bert has published an account of it, with a figure, in the Botnniacht Zti tung for 1844. This we have not yet seen ; but, from the remarks olDrJ Lindley, who has given a note on the genus in Hooker's Journal of Botaiii for January, 1845, it would seem that some doubt existed among European botanists as to its aitlnities, as they had not seen the ripe seeds. These we have long possessed, and unhesitatingly referred it toChenofodiaciu'. \\\ regret that our sketches of the staminate flowers were mis'aid when th^ artist was engraving the figure. Obione conpertifolia. Torr. and Frem. Stem pubescent, much branched, erect ; leaves alternate, ovate, rathej obtuse, petiolate, much crowded, entire, somewhat coriaceous, while wiiq a mealy crust ; bracts broadly ovate, obtuse, entire, angi the sides withou appendages or tubercles. A small shrub, with rigid crooked and somewhat spinescent branched and of a whitish aspect. Leaves varying from one-third to half an iiichii length, abruptly narrowed at the base into a petiole, thickly clothed with] white mealy substance. ^ Flowers apparently dioecious. Sterile not seen. Bracts of the fruit 3- lines long, united about half way up, distinct above, indurated at the has Styles distinct. Pericarp very thin. Seed roundish-ovate, rostcllatc up ward; the testa coriaceous. Embryo two-thirds of a circle. On the borders of the Great Salt lake. From the description of 0. cor, acea, Moq., our plant seems to be a near ally of that species. Pterochiton. Torr. and Frim, — n. gen. Flowers di(Ecious. Staminate .... Pistillate. Perigouiu ovoid-tubular, 4-winged, 2-toothed at the summit. Ovary roundish ; sty( short; stigmas 2, linear. Ovule solitary, ascending from the base of i ovary, campulitropous. Fructiferous periantii indurated, broadly 4-wingei closed, minutely 2 toothed at the summit; the wings veined and irregularU toothed. Utricle very thin and membranaceous, free. Seed ovate, soaij what compressed ; the podosperm lateral und very distiixt, rostrate uj ward. Integument double, the exterior somewhat coriaceous, brownisT the inner one thin. Embryo nearly a circle, surrounding copious mea^ albumen. Pterochiton occidentale. Torr. and Frem. An unarmed shrub, 1 — 2 feet high, with numerous slender braiichaj which are clothed with a grayish nearly smooth bark. Leaves alternaf or fasciculate, linear oblanceolate, narrowed at the base, flat, entire, coverj with a whitish mealy crust. Flowers somewhat racemose, on short pe eels. Fructiferous calyx, with the wings 2 — 3 lines wide, semi-orbicalaj coriaceo-membranaceoos, mealy like the leaves, strongly veined; thei gin more or less toothed. Utricle free from the indurated cavity of tB perianth, extremely thin and transparent. Seed conformed to the utric^ tM occurs in the desf r :ade range and thai ches, when old, be{ in the first report lTUs ; and Dr. Seu he BotnnUche Ztv the remarks of DrJ 's Journal of Botani ed amonsj Europoan ie seeds. These \vi heiiofodiaciiv. WJ B mis'aid when thj Yem. 3 mate, ovate, rathe^ riaceous, while witlj i^ the sides wiihou spinescent branchel ird to half an itichii hickly clothed withj facts of the truit 3- ndurated at the has ■ovate, rostellate up circle. escription of 0. cor\ species. gen. LLATE. Perigouiu vary roundish ; siyl from the base of in 3d, broadly 4-wingel eined and irregular! Seed ovate, soail distiller, rostrate ur coriaceous, brownisi iding copious meafl i Frem. us slender branchi k. Leaves alterns e, flat, entire, coven emose, on short pe( wide, semi-orbiculi gly veined ; the r durated cavity of formed to the utriclB : ;* | i4. t, Ur' Ml ^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // » <■ V" % % 1.0 I.I 1.25 I 2.0 1^ ■^ 1^ 12.2 L^ u WUu m |U 11.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 f/j r HI 1 ■' 1 1 'ill •' 1 i 1' .' 1 f. ;| 1 [: jifl i!' ': i|i i\ •^lai^ HOIWS) /'/,/,, /,. f ^f ////.) ///rp/fr///i//////.^ l,,tl,bvK.W.I.r-r>li'Mi' TheXiil Pino': HOTAXY rbir l\ 319 [ 174] the conspicuous podosperm passing along its side ; the beak pointing ob- liquely upward. This is one of the numerous shrubby plants of the Chenopodiaceous family ihai constitute a large part of the vegetation in the saline soils of the west. The precise locality of this plant wc cannot indicate, as the label was illegible ; but it was probably from the borders of the Great Salt lake. It is allied to Grayia of Hooker and Arnott, a shrub of the same family, which was found in several places on both sides of the Rocky mountains, often in groat abundance. PiNus MONOPHYLLUS. Tovv. (171(1 Firm. {The nut pine.) Leaves solitary, or very rarely in pairs, with scarcely any sheaths, stout and rigid, somewhat pungent ; cones ovoid, the scales with a thick obtusely nyraniitJal and protuberant summit, unarmed ; seeds large, without a wing. A tree with verticillate branches and cylindrical-clavate buds, which are about three-fourths of an inch in lengtii. The leaves are from an inch to two and a half inches long: often more or less curved, scattered, very stout, terete, (except in the very rare case of their being in pairs, when they are I semi-cylindrical,) ending in a spiny tip. Cones about 2h. inches long, and U inch broad in the widest part. The scales are of a light-brown color, thick; the summit obtusely pyramidal and somewhat recurved, but with- out any point. The seeds are oblong, about half an inch long, without a twing; or rather the wing is indissohibly adherent to the scale. The ker- I nel is of a very pleasant flavor, resembling that of Pihtis Pembra. This tree, which is remarkable among the true pines for its solitary leaves, is extensively diffused over the mountains of Northern California, [from long. 111° to 120°, and through a considerable range of latitude. It is alluded to repeatedly, in the course of the narrative, as the nut pine. The Coniferai of the collection were numerous, and suffered less than I most of the other plants. Some of them do not appear to have been hitherto described. There was also an Ephedra, which does not differ essentially \{\mE.occide7ifalis,io\x\\()i'\n great plenty on the sandy uplands of the : Mohahve river. Description of the plates. Plate 1. Arctomecon Calipornicum. Fig. 1, a stamen, magnified; l/^'. 2, an ovule, mag.; fig. 3, capsule, nat. size; fig. 3, (a,) stigma, mag.; y§'. 4, the same cut horizontally, showing the sutures; j/?^^ 5, a seed, Tno^.; M^, 6, portion of a hair from the leaf, mag.; fig. 7, bristle from the extrem- ]:!yof aleaf lobe, mag.; figs. 8 and 9', leaves, nat. size. Plate 2. Prosopis odorata. Fig. 1, a flower, mag.; fig. 2, pistil, 1"'"^?/ fis- 3; cluster of ripe legumes, nat. size. Plate 3. Fremontia vermicularis. Fig. 1, a very young fertile Iflower, mag.; fig. 2, an ovule, mag.; fig. 3, a fertile flower more advanced, Iwff^.; ^o-. 4j a fertile flower at maturity, showing the broad- winged border ofthe calyx, wa^.; y?^-. 5, the same cut vertically ; y?^j^. 6, the same cut porizontally ; fig. 7, a seed, mag.; fi,g. S, embryo, mag. / Plate 4. PiNus AtoNOPHYLLus. Fig. 1, a bud, nat. size; figs. 2, 3, 4, hnds, leaves, nat. size; fig. 2, (a,) section of a single leaf; fig. 5, (a,) sec- jtionof a pair of leaves; fig. 6, a cone, nat. size; fig. 7, a scale, as seen from Ithe outside; fig. s, inside view of the same. ((-.. I'l,!. >i : ii ; 321 [ 174 -J ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS. HJ The map which accompanies this report is constructed upon Flamsteed's modified projection, on a scale of 1 : 2,000,000, and based upon the astronomical observations made during tlie cam- paigns of 1842 and 1843-'44. The longitudes are referred to the meridian of Greenwich, and de^ pend upon eighteen principal stations ; four of which are determined by occultations of fixed stars, and the remaining Iburteen by eclipses of the satellites of Jupiter. All the longitudes on the map have been chronometrically referred to these positions. In the course of the last exploration, it became evident that the longitudes established during the campaign of 1843 were collectively thrown too far to the westward, by the occultation of a^ Arietis, to wHich they had been referred by the chronometer. Thin occultation took place at the briglit limb of the moon, which experience has recently shown to be deserving of little com- parative confidence. This position has therefore been abandoned, .ivid the longitudes depending upon it have been referred chronometrically to those established in 1843 and 1844. The course of the ensuing expedition will intersect the line established by our previous operations, at various points, which it is proposed to correct in longitude by lunar culminations, and such other absolute observations as may be conveniently obtained. Such a position at the mouth of the Fontaine-qui- bouit, on the Arkansas river, will be a good point of reference for the longitudes along the foot of ihc mountains. In passing by the Utah, to the southern portion of the Great Salt lake, we shall have an opportunity to verify our longitudes in that quarter ; and as in the course of our exploration we shall touch upon several points previously determined along the western limit of our recent joumcy, we shall probably be able to form a reasonably correct frame on which to base the con- struction of a general map of the country. In that now presented, we have carefully avoided to lay down any thing as certain which may not be found in the field books of our surveys, which were greatly facilitated by the character of the country in which we were operating. To the kindness of Captain Wilkes I am indebted for the longitudes of Fort Vancouver and Nueva Helvetia, which were furnished to me before the publication of his map. Our recon- noissance is con.'ected with his surveys by those positions. The coast line of the Pacific is laid down according to the sui-vey of Vancouver ; and the bay of San Francisco is rcduo .d from the cojiy of a manuscript map of a detailed survey, in the possession of Mr. Sutter. J. C. FRiiMONT. 21 !i m [I i I r • 9 ^:> t ( ^r f till ^^-mi ,iM [ 174 ] 322 Table of latiludes and luugitudcs deduced from (he annexed observations Date. Latitudes. Longitudes. 1843. May 30 38' ' 49' 41" 94° 25' 31" Jiino 1 39 01 16 95 11 09 4 S9 11 17 95 56 30 5 39 08 24 96 06 02 10 39 1)3 38 96 24 56 12 39 22 12 97 05 32 16 39 32 54 98 U .41 17 39 37 38 98 46 50 19 39 42 35 99 22 03 22 39 53 59 100 31 30 23 39 49 28 100 52 00 25 40 05 08 101 39 S3 28 40 29 04 102 44 47 30 40 31 02 103 23 29 July 1 40 17 21 104 02 00 7 39 43 53 105 24 34 15 38 15 23 104 58 30 18 38 52 10 105 22 45 21 39 41 45 105 25 38 23 40 16 52 105 12 23 30 41 02 19 105 35 17 31 41 04 06 - 31 41 15 02 106 16 54 August 1 41 23 08 - 2 41 45 59 - 2 41 37 16 106 47 25 8 41 35 48 - 6 41 35 59 107 32 27 Localities, Elm grove. Small tributary to the Kansas. Buck creek, tributary of the Kantas. Elk creek, tributary of the Kansas. Encampment on the Smoky Hill fork, half a mil* from itB junction with the Rei)ublican. Tributary to the Republican fork. Tributary to the Republican fork. I^ibutary to Solomon's fork of tlie Republican. Tributary to Solomon's fork of the Republican. Tributary to Republican fork. Prairie Dog river, Republican fork. Small tributary to the Republican. Encampment on a small lake in the sandy plain between the Republican and South fork of the Platte river. South fork of the Platte river. South fork, 9 miles above mouth of Beaver fork. South fork, near Cherry creek. Junction of Arkansas and Boiling Spring riders- Boiling Springs. South fork. St. Vrain's fort. High prairie, broken by buttes and boulders, with scattered cedars, forming dividing groundi betwreen Laramie and Cache i la Poudra j rivers. Near the preceding. Laramie river. Stream discharging into a lakci Fork of Laramie river. Medicine Bow river. Tributary to the North fork. North fork of the Platte river. flf xed observatiom ky Hill fork, half a mils he Rei)ublican. an fork. lake in the sandy plain m and South fork of ths river. ■e mouth of Beaver forL creek. 1 Boiling Spring rivers. buttes and boulders, witli I ming dividing groundj d Cache i la PoudiJ Date. 1843. Augurt_ 8 Sept. 9 9 10 13 13 14 15 16 16 17 18 19 20 21 21 22 24 24 35 29 30 31 2 3 7, 12 8 9 10 323 Table of latitudes and longitudes — Continue'' C 174] Latitudes. 42° 02' 03" 42 20 06 42 31 17 42 19 53 42 18 08 42 15 11 41 53 54 41 46 54 41 37 38 41 29 53 41 26 08 41 34 24 41 39 45 . 41 53 55 42 03 47 42 10 27 42 29 05 42 36 56 42 39 57 42 07 18 42 14 22 41 59 31 41 30 21 41 30 22 41 15 60 41 11 26 41 10 42 41 14 17 Longitudes. Localitici?. 110 10 28 110 25 06 110 45 58 i High plateau between the waters of the Atlantic and the gulf of California. - Gap in the Sweet Water mountains. 1 07" 50' 07" I Sweet Water river. - ] Sweet Water river. I Near South pass, on a small affluent to the Sandy I fork of Green river. 109 25 55 Small stream, tributary to the Little Sandy river. - I Little Sandy river. i 110 05 05 I Green river, left bank. - I Green river, near old trading post, at point wherfl j the road to the Columbia leaves the river. Black's fork of Green river. Black's fork. Small stream, tributary to Ham's fork. Muddy river of Ham's fork. * Muddy r.'ver. Bear river. Bear river. Bear river, above Thomas's fork. Tullick's fork of Bear river. Bear river. Beer springs. Entrance of the beautiful pass with the remark^ able rock. Branch of Roscaux or Reed river. Swampy place, a little distance from Roseaux creek. Bear river, near the mouth. Mouth of Bear river. Weber's fork. Weber's fork, very near the mouth« Island in the Great Salt lake. Halt in the Mud. Ill 10 53 111 42 08 111 46 00 112 15 46 112 19 30 112 06 43 112 11 30 112 21 05 ■ill k , ■ ,1,* \- f '- f ' \ ,1 I IB! ' ■■ ! J I, N ■I . I If ( [ 174 ] 324 Table of latitmhs and longitudes — Continued. \i\ .ii'i Date. La titude.-t. Longitudes. 1843. Sept, 13 41° 43' 43" 112° 05' 13" 15 42 12 57 112 15 04 17 43 44 40 112 2!) 53 21 43 01 30 112 29 54 24 42 47 05 113 40 13 28 43 29 57 - 29 43 3(5 31 114 06 04 30 ■i2 38 44 114 25 04 Oct. 1 42 40 11' 114 35 12 2 43 53 40' 114 53 01 3 42 55 58 115 04 46 7 43 35 21 115 51 46 8 43 40 53 116 23 40 10 43 40 23 116 47 03 12 44 17 30 116 56 45 14 41 37 44 Wi O'J 49 15 44 50 33 117 21 31 16 44 59 29 117 29 22 18 45 26 47 117 28 26 19 45 38 07 117 28 34 23 45 53 35 118 00 39 26 46 03 46 - 28 45 58 08 - 30 45 50 05 119 22 18 31 45 44 23 119 45 09 Nov. 5 45 35 55 120 55 00 5 45 35 21 120 53 51 11 46 33 09 122 06 15 26 45 14 24 . Localities. Ufur river, south of the guji — a main station. RosJoiux or Reed river. Panimck river. Fort Hull. iSnake liver, above the American fulls. 8nake river. Rock creek, of Siiiiko river. 8iiakc river, opposiln to the Uiver spring. Snake river, 3 miles I'dow Fishing fulls. Sii;ike rivor. Ford where road crosses the Stiakc river. Dig Wood river, or Rivieie BoisJe Big Wool river, or Riviere Boisue. Fort Boisce. Snake river, below Birch creek. Head water of Burnt river, (Uivicre Brulec.) Old bed of Powdi^r river. Powder river. Grand Rond. Blue mouniains, cast of the summit. Walahwalah river, foot of the mountains. Fort Nez Percu. Noon halt— laft bank of the Columbia. Left bank of the Columbia. Left bank of the Columbia. Missionary station at the Dalles of the Columbia. Station on hilla in rear of the mission. Right bank of the Columbia, )5 miles below tiie Large branch. of FaU river, {^Rivlcreaux Chuten.] ncd. 325 [ 174 ] Table of latitudes and longitudes — Continued. t: P ^H ale. Latitudes. Longitudes. 184S. >'o». 27 45* 06' I 45" 121° ip— a main station. ^| 02' 43" 30 44 3i 23 121 10 26 Dec 6 43 &h 20 - 6 43 44 15 - nericaa fulls. ^U 7 43 30 36 121 33 50 8 43 .17 49 - ^1 10 42 56 61 - ic Uivcr spring. ^H 13 42 61 26 121 20 42 V Fishing falls. ^H 16 42 57 22 - 18 42 42 37 - ic Snake river, ^H 24 42 23 26 - tu Boi8.ie ^H 26 42 00 09 - re Boisee. ^H 29 41 27 60 - 31 41 19 65 - creek. ^H 1844. Jin. 3 40 48 16 , . •, (Riviere Brulec.) ^B 6 40 39 46 - 15 39 51 13 - 18 39 24 16 - 19 39 19 21 - lie summit. |H 21 39 01 53 — f the mountains. fl 22 3H 49 54 - 23 38 36 19 - he Columbia. S 24 38 24 28 - 1 26 38 18 01 - fl 30 38 37 18 — Dalles of the Columbia. ■ Feb. 6 38 42 26 — the mission. fl 14,19 38 41 57 120 25 57 ,ia, 15 miles below the ■ 24 38 46 58 120 34 20 , (^Riviere auxChutu]m Mar. 10, 22 38 34 42 . _ Localitieg. South end of Taih prairie. Main branch of Fall river. Fall river, (Union Falls.) Fall river, (Union Falls) Fall river, (Union Falls ) Camp in a pine foresU TIamath lake. Tributary to the lake and head water of the TIamath river. Summer lake. Summer lake. Christmas lake. Desert valley among black rocky hills. Camp of the 29th to 30th. New-year's Eve camp. Camp near the Mud lake. Camp near Great Boiling spring. Pyramid lake, mouth of Salmon Trout river. Camp on a river of the Sierra Nevada. Camp on a river of the Sierra Nevada. Camp on a river of the Sierra Nevada. Camp on a river, near a gap. Camp on a southern branch of scream of encamp* ment of 22d to 23d. Head waters of a stream. Camp on a large stream. Camp on the same stream which we encamped upon on the night of the I8th to i9th January. First camp in the pass of the Sierra Nevada. The Long camp. Rio de los Americanos, (high in the mountain. ) NCKTA HeLTKTIA. ^ V li: ' U i*. ■' m IL il ti- -A !«(j)i. ; [ 174 ] 326 liable of latitude. Small affluent to the Arkansas. A larger affluent to the Arkansas. Junction of Arkansas and Fontaine-qui-bouit rivers. Near Bent's fort on the Arkansas river. Smoky Hill river. Smoky Hill river. Smoky Hill river. Smoky Hill river, below Pawnee village. Smoky Hill river. Three miles south of Smoky Hill fork. Between Smoky Hill fork and the Santa F6 trail. Santa Fe road. Black jack on the Santa Fe road. I 4 r 2l t r ^f ife AS^ ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS MADE DURINO THE EXPEDITION OF 1843-'44. i ' it ■' ;' S •ff [ 174] 330 ENCAMPMENT AT THE KANSAS LANDING. Determination of time, May 18, 1843 — altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. FIRST SEIIIES. SECOND SERIES. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of the sun's lower iimb. Time of chronometer Deg. ti.in, tec 58 12 20 67 54 10 57 32 40 67 17 40 57 03 45 h. min. 4 45 46 47 47 48 sec. 20 07.5 04.0 42.0 17.4 Deg. min, sec. 56 45 00 66 2? 50 66 13 25 55 59 00 65 46 30 h, min. sec. 4 49 07.0 49 49.0 50 27.0 61 04.7 51 37.0 Index error = + 22 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. h, min. sec 4 29 50 h, min, sec. 18 49.3 Determination of time, May 19, 1843 — altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. FIRST SERIES. SECOND SERIES. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Deg. min, sec. 51 44 30 52 22 60 52 50 35 53 19 05 h. min. sec, 7 27 17.0 28 68.3 30 10.5 31 ;S4.2 Deg. min. sec. 63 5« 30 64 33 00 54 57 50 55 25 20 56 01 50 h. min, sec. 7 33 05.0 34 36.8 35 40.0 37 16.3 38 2S.0 Index error = + 20 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. « h. mifi. sec. 7 13 59 h. min, sec, 18 39 I'ae " obuervations" in these tables are ^ven in civil time. Deter) Double altitudes sun's lower lii 5r?. min 43 01 42 44 42 31 42 11 41 57 Deierni Double altitudes o sun's lower lim Deg. min. si 70 43 21 70 58 4( 71 15 2( 71 29 41 h 7 G. f of the sun. SGRIE8. Time of chronometer, h. min. HC. 4 49 07.0 49 49.0 50 27.0 51 04.7 51 37.0 ince. n. sec. t 49.3 f of the sun. SEniES. Time of chroDometer. h. min. itc. 7 33 os.o 34 36.8 35 40.0 37 16.3 38 25.0 ice. sec. 39 :ime. 331 C 174] ENCAMPMENT AT THE KANSAS LANDING. Determination of time. May 19, 1843 — altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. FIB8T SERIES. pouble altitudes of the gun's lower limb. Dq. mtn. sec 43 01 42 44 42 31 42 11 41 57 08 40 55 10 SO Time of chronometer. 5 mm. 24 26 26 27 27 sec. 41.0 14.0 09.3 45.4 SECOITD SERIES. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Deif, min. sec. 41 35 35 41 22 40 41 08 25 40 49 20 40 25 50 h. 5 mm. 28 29 29 30 31 sec. 43.0 17.3 53.0 46.0 45.0 Index error = -f- 15 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. h. min. sec. 5 09 52 Advance. h. min. 18 sec. 21.6 Determination of time, May 21, 1843 — altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS FIRST SERIES. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Ltg. min. sec 70 43 20 70 58 40 71 15 20 71 29 45 Time of chronometer. SECOND SERIES. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. min. sec. Deg. min. sec 71 45 50 14 21.0 72 17 50 15 01.0 72 36 00 15 43.7 72 53 00 16 20.5 73 05 40 Time of chronometer. h. min. see. 8 17 02.0 18 25.6 19 11.0 19 56.0 20 29.0 Index error = -f- 1 mi"- 30 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. h. min. sec. 7 59 28 /*. min. sec. 17 42.9 )•!' r Wl Hh, f I ■ .7. m^p^ It I F^i I? i !1 IB ii I? :•! p.. ■(, i !1! t1 1 [ 174] 332 ENCAMPMENT AT THE KANSAS LANDING. Determination of time, May 22, 1843 — altitudes of the sun, OBSERVATIONS. riBST SERIES. 1 SECOJfB SERIES. Double altitudes of the Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of the Time of chronometer sun's lower limb. sun's lower limb. Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec. Deg. min. tec. h. min. sec. 66 08 40 8 01 33.3* 67 47 20 8 05 49.3 66 34 50 02 40.5 68 02 10 06 28.0 66 62 30 03 27.4 68 17 00 07 05.0 67 05 40 04 02.0 68 41 00 08 08.0 67 29 50 05 04.6 69 15 20 09 38.0 Index error = 4-1 min. 12 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. A. min. sec. 7 48 06 h. min. sec 17 17.9 Determination of time, May 22, 1843 — altitudes of the sun, OBSERVATIONS. FIRST SERIES. SECOND SERIES. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer, Deg. 53 53 53 52 52 min. sec. 42 30 29 30 10 10 49 50 34 40 h, min. sec. 4 57 52.5 4 58 26.7 4 59 15.6 5 00 10.2 5 00 49.0 Deg, min. sec. 52 19 20 52 05 40 51 o2 10 51 40 5C 51 28 56 h. 5 min, 01 02 02 03 03 sec. 28.6 02.6 39.2 06.7 39.3 Index error = -|- 10 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. -■ ■ ■ h. min. sec. 4 43 53 h. min. sec. 17 3.8 Deter Double altitiulca sun's lowtr 1 Bc^- win. 58 43 59 05 59 23 59 40 60 01 Delcri Double altitudes suus lower 1 De' i.! I til. . 'I i . :^l^;: i; ■ I* m ii is- .1 ;:^-^i^ '!i w ■' 1' ! 1 1 1 i 1 1 1 1 I I C 174] 336 ENCAMPMENT AT ELM GROVE. Determination of longitude, May 30, 1843— altitudes o/a Lyrx. OBSERVATIONS. FIRST SERIES. SECOND SKIIIES. Double altituileB«of a Lyra. Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of a Lyras. Time of chronomc Deg. min. sec. 65 12 10 65 42 50 66 10 00 66 41 40 67 08 00 h. min. sec. 9 11 22.5 1 12 50.0 14 0-\0 15 35.0 16 49.0 1 1 Deg. min. sec. 67 40 00 63 29 00 69 01 00 h. mill. Sic. 9 IS 22.0 20 38.5 22 08 Index error = -r- 10 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. h. min. sec. h. min. sec. 9 1 31 15 41.2 Determination of lalit ale, May 30, 1S43— altitudes of Polaris. * OBSERVATIONS. i Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. mm. 1 sec. 74 41 10 9 27 49 43 10 30 12 41 00 31 28 42 50 34 06 43 10 37 04 43 00 38 43 43 50 40 49 43 40 42 39 44 30 t 44 31 45 10 46 27 : 45 10 46 27 Index error = — 10 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Dfg. min. sec. 37 20 14 h. min, sec. 9 SI 43 D g. min. see. 3S 49 41 udes of a Lyrx, ) BfilllES. Time of chronomclerj h. min. sic. 9 18 22.0 20 38.5 23 08 337 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT ON A MMAIJ, TRinTTTARY TO THE KANSAS RiVER. Dt'/crniiudfiun of /afi/u(/i', June 1, 1S'I3 — dlfi/ui/es of I'ularis. on FHVATION9. Double altitudes of Polnris. Dc'^. mm. fCC. 'lb 07 40 7 5 (■8 10 7 5 09 10 ■;5 09 '20 75 10 00 Time of rhronomotrr. InJc.x error =s — lit sec. vnn. tec. 40 54 4 2 :»9 44 52 4fi :}8 48 X) ".■\'i vance. nin. sec. 15 41.3 udes of Polaris. :lironon!cter. nin. sec. 27 49 30 12 31 28 34 06 37 04 38 43 40 49 42 39 44 3t 46 27 nKHUi/r OF C.\L(UI..\T10N. 'J'rue iiltitll Ic. D~/r. mill. fee. ■il 33 05 Moan lim:'. 7)iin. fee. 2'> 51 liatituiic. /) ;if. tii'n. tec. 39 01 16 Determination of /i/ngifno'c, June 1, 1S'13 — (iltitudes of o. Ljjrx. OI!Si;i{VATT :>NS. Double altitudes of a Lyra?. Time of (hronomctcr. D'g. 76 76 77 min. 01 36 00 see. 50 50 40 h. min. sec. ' 9 35 12.5 36 55.0 37 59.5 Indox error = — 1 wc. if ; c- m ■ i} w rt ».< Latitude. D g. fnin. >(c. 38 49 41 ii-4 RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. sec. 9 18 49 h. min. sec. 17 51 Deg. min. tec. 9.> 1 1 09 [II I iiU [ 174 ] -i'^^ ENCAMPMENT ON BLACK CREEK, A TKIUIJTAKY 'lO THE KANSAS. Diilcnninaliun of latilutle, June 4, \ii\3—altHui/e.s' of Puiuns. 01!9'.:RVATI()NS. Double altitudes of Polaris. 'I'ime of chronometer. Be;;. niln. sec. fi. mill. sec. '/ft 2S 43 « 3i Oil 7^ 23 (10 35 13 75 30 0i> 37 00 75 30 CO 38 56 Index error := — 15 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. A. min. sec. 37 41 13 Mean time. Latitude. h. min. fee. 9 16 10 D g- min. src. a9 11 17 Determination of longitude, June 4, 1843 — u/iitudes of a Lyric. OnSEUVATIONS. Double altitudes of a Lyrte. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. see. 82 46 50 84 16 20 h. m'n. see. 9 43 32.5 47 41.0 Index error ss — 16 sec BKSULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. fee. 9 25 68 h. min. tee. 19 38.5 Deg. min. see. 96 66 30 339 C ''4 ] E\CAMPMi:.NT ON ELK CREEK. A TRIBUTARY 'lO THE KANSAS. Dclcrntin ttiuii of luiii^ilittif, Jiiuf 5, IS 13 — ii//ihii/c,s oj t/ie Mtn. OBSEUVATIOXS. FlllSr SF.IIIKS. DoiiMc altitude? of ilic suii'ii l.iwiT Iitnl>. Dti^- nun. sec. 41 23 10 41 5S 25 43 43 00 4) 3i 30 43 21 60 SKroNi) sKniF.s. Doiil>lc altituilrs of tlic HuiiV lower limb. Dg. ii 42 4i 41 41 mm. SIC 41 27 II 5i 42 :30 50 3) 40 10 Time of rlironoinctor. Ill in- SfC. 37 37.0 38 19.4 :)'.» 02.5 ao 51.6 40 21.5 11' ,1 ; Index error = — 15 sec. • g. Ill in. src. a9 11 17 RESUI/r OF CALCUI-ATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. n'c. 5 17 00 h- mill. sec. 19 54.7 Deg. min. src. 90 06 Qi W' eg. mm. see. 16 66 30 Delerrm'nalioti of lulitude, June 5, IS 13 — ulliliides of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double a' titudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Dg- mill. sec. A. mil. sec. 75 65 40 10 66 28 75 66 50 68 63 75 57 30 11 01 15 75 58 66 03 63 76 69 GO 04 63 76 00 30 06 53 76 01 10 08 4S 76 01 45 10 04 Index error w= — 15 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Dfg. min. sec. 37 68 IS h. min. sec. 10 43 60 Dcg. min. see. sy 08 34 h 'i :V i ■ H:i ft ■ U^' VM a . fit . I II If [ 174 ] 3<0 JJclcrmhiulion of /u/i/tn/f, June 9, 1S43 — allitudcs of Volar OH'iKItVATinNS. IS. D( III Ic itltitUcli'H of 1' ;)5 no 75 :)« 'i(» 7r) ;'8 00 75 :t» 40 75 'iO ;i.') 'J'iiiu' of iliroiioinctiT. Iiidi.'X error i*^' — 15 hlc. //. Til hi. Arc 10 I'J 48 i'i M) •-i6 •3i !i«J Oi no 4(1 :).'•> fia 'IVlK' ;iltilU(ll'. ■j/ 47 aa nKSUI.T Of CALL;lfLATIO\. Mciiii lime. A. //( 'n. ,\ic. 10 08 2.1 LntituJo. 7J .Lf. «;/'/. s/T. 39 (i;J 22 Delerminulion of hii^:^ilndi', June 9, IS 13 — alltliides of Ihc sun. OllSEn . ATIONS. Doulilo oltiiudcs 0.'" the BUn's lower liiiib. see. 'I'inic of ehronometcr. Drg. m n. /*. 7iiin. sec. 2S> f>l 13 6 23 05.5 31 24 10 27 19.0 32 00 20 '28 55.0 32 21 15 29 51.0 'Ai 43 05 iiO 50 Index error 13 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATICN. Mran time. Advance. Longitude. k. nvn. fee. 6 U8 39 h. mitt. sec. 19 21.6 ^^ Dim. sec. 03 'Z-i 341 r >74 ] E.vi\MPME.\T ON Tin: «\inKV iiii.r, kork. mm r \ milk from its junc- tion WITH Tin: KtJIMJUMCAN. Determinulion of longitude^ June 10, 1«4H — (illHiiden of the sun. OHSKHVATIONS. FIRST riEIlIEH- SKroxn HKHIES. DoiiMe altitudes of the Time of chronometer. Double iltitiulen of the Time of clironomcter. m\* lower limb. Muri'H lower iiiiili. Dn^. min. tier. h, min. »ee. Desr. min. gee. h. min. tee. 54 47 40 5 07 21.0 53 39 40 5 l-i 63.6 54 03 55 09 \\A 5i 23 00 i3 37.5 53 3« 55 10 25.5 51 39 4ft 15 33.5 53 19 10 11 12.5 51 24 30 16 10.6 58 59 15 12 01.4 50 69 15 17 17.0 Mean time. mm. s'c. 53 30 Index error = — 10 sec. UESITLT OF CALCULATION. Advance. h. mm. 19 sec. 04.5 Longitude. Beg. min. tee. 96 24 5G [lomotcr. Determination of latitude, June 10, 1843 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. win. sec. h. min. sec. 75 21 15 9 3d 29 75 21 30 41 35 75 22 40 46 06 75 23 50 47 36 75 zl 00 48 52 75 21 45 50 28 75 25 00 52 0* 75 26 30 53 18 73 26 30 51 43 75 27 15 57 17 Index error •— — 10 sec. RESULT OK CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. D'g. min. sec. 37 40 50 h. min. sec. 9 30 03 D''g. min. ac. 39 03 38 (:■ i I !^ t ,! Ill V- [ 174 ] 342 e.\«ami'Mi:nt on tuf: smoky riir.r. fork, ir af.f a Mn,i: from its wxc rio.N WITH riii; ki;im;ui.ii,an. ' Dclerinlnuliun of lutigiiuiie, June 10, 1843 — ultiliaJcs of u. Ct/ifni, OIISKHVA ''IONS. Douhlc nltit uiles of a i' ygni. Time of chronoiiiPter. Dft!. nt'it. fff. h. mhi, »<•(•. 71 47 50 10 10 IHft 72 a« 00 13 13ft 73 05 VO 14 45 71 40 00 10 32.0 74 16 15 18 20.U Index error as — 10 nee. RESULT OP CALClTLATIOy. Mean time. Longitude. ENCAMPMENT ON A TRIBUTARY TO REPUBLICAN FORK. P''terniinutioti of latitude, June 12, 1843 — attitudes (f Puluris. OBSEnVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. De^. min. nee. h. min. sec. 76 09 00 10 01 4-4 76 10 00 04 49 76 10 30 (>7 \M 7rt 11 50 08 5.-> 76 12 20 11 Ii2 76 12 30 12 30 76 12 50 14 48 Index error = — 12 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. D n. min. nee. 38 04 18 //. min. fi'c. 9 47 51 Dfif. min. ifc 39 22 12 Double altitud tun'g lower Deg. min 5-2 48 52 33 61 67 61 32 51 20 FROM ITS ,Ii:xc S of (i ^'UShL rioniPtcr. "■ -" S'C. 48 6 136 45 3i.O 20.U .34.1 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT ON A TRinUTARY TO nEPirnf.K'AN FORK. Ufltrminalion of loiii^itiKle, June 12, I8IJ — ulliluUeH of a. Jl4 M »5.0 Index error — — 12 tec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. liongitudo. h. min. sec. lU 16 29 h. min. .ire. 2b 6^.6 Deg. min. see. 97 06 33 SECOND ENCAMPMENT ON THE TRIBUTARY TO REPUBLICAN FORK. Delerniinalion of lungilude, June 15, 1843 — ulliludes (\f the sun. OBSEUVATIONS. Finsr sEiiiEfl. SECOND IKBIKS. Double altiludt's of the 8un'g lower limb. Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. deg. van. sec, b-i 48 25 52 33 35 61 67 35 51 3i 20 51 20 55 A. min. sec. 5 55 29.5 56 06 67 41.0 68 48.0 59 IH.O Dcg. min. sec. 61 OtJ ao 50 5 J 30 50 40 45 50 30 16 60 19 00 h, min. see. 5 59 .58 6 GO 29.6 01 04.0 01 32.3 02 02.6 Index error = — 18 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. s'c, 4 69 33 h. min. S'C. 59 41.6 /)%'. min. sec. 98 11 41 •■ .m ' >» liVl u i 1 mm '^l WKa, ] Mk -1 V )\ m 1 I; m .5 li '•> ^' .; !' -t i! ii C 174 ] :i44 r: ^SECOND KNOAMl'MENT ON THE TRIUUrAFtif TO REPUULIOAN FORK Ueleniiinti/iun of latitude, June 15, ISKi — iltitudcs of Polaris OnSKKVATIOXS. Double altitudes of Polari?. Time of chronometer. D',e;. mill fee. 76 21 30 76 23 00 7fi 2-2 25 76 23 20 76 23 40 76 23 30 76 24 00 76 25 00 76 25 25 76 27 10 h. viln. sec. 10 (•7 00 08 21 09 51 11 15 12 15 13 17 14 44 17 37 19 19 21 31 Index error «= — 12 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. tnin. sec. 38 10 34 k. min. sec. 9 13 50 Deg. min sec. 39 32 54 ENCAMPMENT ON A TRIBUTARY TO SOLOMON'S FORK OF THE REPUBLICAN, Determinalion of latitude, June 17, 1S43 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altit ides of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. in'n. itC, h. min. S'C. 76 37 .'iO 10 16 56 76 38 20 18 41 76 38 30 20 25 76 39 20 22 33 76 39 .-iO 2:) 40 76 40 10 25 46 76 40 40 2G 50 76 41 20 28 11 76 42 00 29 41 76 42 10 30 50 Index error =. — 14 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. De^. mill. see. 38 18 39 Mean time- Latitude. 9 mm. 23 sec. 32 £) g. min. nee. 39 37 38 315 Latitude eg, min 9 3i sec. 54 HE REPUBLICA.V, s of Polaris, C i7» ] E>CAMPME.\T ON \ TRIUUT.^RY TO SOLOMON'S FORK 0'/ THE REPUBLICAN. Bcterniination of time, June 17, 1813 — alliludes of a Aquilic. OESKUVATIONS. Double altitudes of a Aquila;. Deg. min. see. 61 10 50 61 40 00 62 57 50 63 19 20 63 51 50 64 25 00 'J'imc of chronometer. h. m>n. SfC, 11 12 46.5 14 07.5 17 35.5 18 35.0 20 02.5 21 34.0 Index error -= — 14 sec. KESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. h. min, sec. 10 16 36 h. min. see. I 00 50.4 SECOND ENCAMPMENT ON THE TRIBUTARY TO SOLOMON'S FORK. Delerminalion of time, June 19, 1843 — altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. FIRST SERifS. SKCOMD SERIES. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronomBter. D^q. min. sec. 42 21 05 42 08 10 41 54 50 41 42 30 41 31 15 k. min. sec. 6 26 51.5 27 36.5 28 13.0 28 46.3 29 15.0 Dee;, min. sec. 41 05 10 40 52 40 40 40 45 40 14 50 40 04 10 h. min. see. 6 30 22 5 30 59.0 31 31.5 33 40.0 33 08.5 !)' si ( . 1.4 f 11- i; riv-Jf *:*''. RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. h, min. sec. 5 27 46 k. min. see, 1 02 10 i:^ I C 174 ] 316 SECOND ENCAMPMPJNT ON THE TRIBUTARY TO SOLOMON'S FORK, Determination of lutituile, June 19, 18 43 — uUitudes of Polaris, OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. see. 76 43 35 10 01 60 76 46 40 08 48 76 43 40 14 36 76 50 CO 19 88 76 51 20 24 14 Index error =a — 10 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. D''ff. min. sec. 38 22 42 h. min. sec. 9 11 13 Defi^. min. sec. 39 42 35 V 'I' li i- ENCAMPMENT ON A TRIBUTARY TO REPUBLICAN FORK. Determination of time, June 22, 1843 — altitudes of a ^quilx. OBSERVATIONS. FIRST SERIES. SECOND SERIES. Double altitudes of a Aquilse. Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of a Aquilffi. Time of chronometer. Des;. min. sec. 49 29 10 60 18 50 51 41 00 h. min. sec. 10 26 37.0 28 48.0 32 24.0 De.ff. min. sec. 54 32 10 55 18 20 56 15 50 h. min. w. 10 39 "iS.O 42 ui '/ 44 34.5 Index error = -f- 1 min. 26 sec. RESULT OF CALCULAarON. Mean time. Advance. k. min. src. 9 30 42 h. min. sec. 1 05 01.5 fl ronomcter. n. sec. 50 48 36 88 14 D^^. min. sec. 39 42 35 ENCAMPMENT ON A TRIBUTARY TO RF?UBLICAN FORK. Deter mi nation of latitude, June 22, IS 13 — altitudes of Polari.t. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chron ometer. Den. mm. sec. h. min. sec. 77 30 00 10 60 11 77 30 30 62 05 77 32 20 6i 21 V7 3i 30 54 27 77 33 20 66 10 Index error =. -|- ^ mil- 25 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. mill. sec. 38 45 22 h. min. sec, 9 48 15 De^. min. sec. 39 63 59 Time of chronometer. EXC.\MPMENT ON PRAIRIE DOG RIVER, TRIBUTARY TO REPUBLICAN FORK. Determination oflimeiJune 23, 1843 — altitudes of a. Ci/gni. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of a Cygni. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min, sec. «4 vo 00 10 09 43 64 48 50 11 12 5 65 20 60 12 • 49.7 65 51 31) 14 25.0 66 24 40 16 10.0 Index error = — Hi sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. h. min. sec. 9 07 02 Advance. niiv 05 ."iO.S '^ m I 1- ri I .'■ • 1 [ i74 ] 348 EN(;aMPMENT on prairie dog river, tributary to REPUBUCAi\ FORK'. JJelermination of latitude, June 23, ISIS — altitudes oj Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chron omctcr. D^g. mm. sec. A. min. sec. 11 SI 20 10 4t 33 Tt 21 30 45 4r) 77 22 45 46 59 11 23 40 48 55 77 25 40 « bi 05 77 26 00 6:) 59 77 28 10 55 30 77 2S 10 57 49 77 30 00 59 58 77 30 00 11 01 40 Index error 10 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. D?g. min. sec. 38 41 34 Latitude. Deg, min. sec. 39 49 28 ENCAMPMENT ON A SMALL TRIBUTARY TO THE REPUBLICAN FORK. Ve.erminition of time, Jurte 25, 1843 — altitudes of a C'l/gtii. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of a Cygni. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. 75 1 1 43 75 40 00 76 14 00 k. min. src. 10 36 28.0 37 5(1.0 39 39.5 Index error = — 10 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. /*. viin, sec. 9 30 09 Advance. A. min. 1 07 sec. 51.8 m : PUBLICAN FORK', s of Polaris. 340 [ \7[ ] I:^(:AMP^'E^T on a smai.t. triuutary to the republican fork. Ihicnninalion of l(i(ita H 30 In '"X error — — 10 sco. IlKSULT OF cAl.r.UI.A TIOV. True altlluilo. Mean time. 7W, nrn. frr. h. III 'n . fi'r. 3J 01 57 10 Oii 15 Latitulc. J) i^. in in :e. ■. 40 (;5 08 JBLICAN FORK. of » ^ygni. mometer. src. 28.0 56.0 39.5 EXCAMPMENT OX A SMALL LAKC IX THl'l SANDY Pi.AIV BETWCKN THK UEPUULIUA.N ANU SOUTH FORK i OF J'Hi:: PLAl'PE RIVE {. Bclennination oj time, June 28. 1843 — allitvJes of o. ^Iquilte. On- r. 50 35 00 10 3> 0-<.<» 60 18 50 38 34 fil 15 10 40 4-.;.0 02 OG 10 43 O'.O 63 01 40 45 a3.o Index cr;ur — — 20 sec. RESULT OF CALCITLATION. Mean ti .. 3. Ad anco. h. min. itr, 9 30 IS h. m n. fee 1 10 Si -••r ( y Vri ■y ' B >i lit''' !:v'' r- '\i ,-i<^'' (lit It; I I i !' ! -i i.,i r <'^ ] .MfjO KN(;AMP.ME\ T ON A SMALT. LAKE L\ THE SANDY PLAIN BRTWCEN THE HEJMIJLIL'A.N A.NU S )L IH FOUKs OF J'HE t'LAlTE KIVEK. D^lermhmtiiin of liilitiide, Jitne 2'^, IS 13 — altitudes of Paluris. ODSEKVATIOXS. Double n'.t.tuilcs" of Polaris. 'J'ime of chronometer. Dn. mill. .•tr. 78 fii 00 7S 53 40 7^ 5.i 2 J 78 f6 10 7S 5fi :(0 7^ .'^7 3.) 78 5\> OU 78 59 20 79 01 10 7J 01 ♦ 25 h mill. firr. 10 M) 44 53 06 54 49 6J 81 5S 56 11 01 (•7 02 3fi 04 11 0» 24 or 33 Index error = — "^0 sec. RKSULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean lime. liatitudc. J>fi(. mill. SIC. 39 27 15 h mill ' ^re ,9 49 04 /) i,'. w!u. nee. 40 29 04 Determination of latitude, Jane2S, 1S4.S — meridian altitude nfaJiquUx. Double altitude of a Aquilce. True altituJo. Ijatitude. Deif. min. s<^c. 116 Ul 50 D e;- m ». tec. 58 00 30 De-f. min. s^c. 40 27 24 Double altitude li/..l BRTWEEN THE '^ KIVEK. D ij;. ruin. Kec. 40 29 04 itudeofa.Jlqwlx. le^r. niin. s''c. U) 27 21 351 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT ON THE SOUTH FORK OF PLATTE KIVER. Determiuiitiun of lime, June 30, IS 1.3 — jliituilc of the, sun fF. OBSEUVATION. DmWr altitude of the sun's lower limb. Den;, min. frc. 30 25 25 Time of chronometer. /;. min. st. 6 18 34.0 Index error = -J- 1 ruin. 27 .sec. HESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. //. mill. fee. 5 06 28 A. niin. fer. 1 12 05.9 Delerminalion of latitude — meridian altitude of a Jiquilx. OBSERVATION. Double altitude of a Aquilje. True altitude. 115 min, 51 tec. 5U D'H' min, s^r, 57 56 32 Latitude. D s. min. sec. 40 31 US If'' ! : -ri^ i i Wk •■ •r:; m 11 i ill a [ IT4 ] ^52 ENCAMPMENT ON TITR SOTITIT FOKK OF TITE PT, ATTE niVGR, NINE MU rs ABOVE "JllE Mol-Tll OF UEAVLK FORK. D^tcrminulinn of lihw, Jul}/ I, IS V.) — ullU tides o/a ^"if/ttifx. OHSKKVAIIONS. Double nltitudtm of o Aqiiilw. /?-. ruin. sir (il 10 00 03 ftfi 30 OV •-•l V5 (i'l 52 (l(» 05 47 45 Time of clirononictir. II. iiih). arc. 10 3/ 3-.0 39 23 -10 3.J.6 41 5V0 41. 30.5 Index cnor = — 34 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Moan time. Advance. /i. Ill III .«'«'. y 20 47 h. hi'n. SIC. 1 14 00 II M Detcrmintiiion of latilvde, Jitli/ 1, 1S4;3 — alliludcs of PiAuris. onSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Di:. m ". SfC. '/8 .'i3 10 18 35 50 78 30 15 78 3S 50 78 : 9 30 78 4i (0 -/8 4i 00 78 43 10 78 41 30 78 46 10 Time of chronomcler. /*. mm. .^'C 10 5-i 02 53 48 55 3<) 57 53 59 44 11 03 53 05 33 07 17 OS 56 11 35 Index error == — 34 sec. BESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. JD XT' niin. src, 39 18 37 \ h. mm. sec. 9 47 31 Latitude. Jy-g. mln. &ec. 40 17 21 333 [ m] Sr. VIJAINS FORT. DJenniiuti'ion of ion^:,n'/iidi,Jii/^ 4, 1813 — nililuilcs of the sun. OnSKRVATIONS. KlllSr 8 illlKH. SKCOXI) S'.IKIKS, Unulilc a .titiid (w of Iho I'irno of chronometer. ' DoiiI>I.' altitiule.s of the Titne o f chronometer. au'i'ii luvvcr limb. sun's lower limb. fl:;'. mill. ne.c. //. IH'II, SIC. ' Ti:^- III hi . S€C, h. min. sec 61 20 00 6 14 450 61 A-i 5i) G 19 01.7 5;J O-i •.ill 15 20.5 51 !i9 1)0 19 39 hi 4',» 50 10 08 5 5l» 3/ 30 2 1 5f).0 Ivi 2I> 55 17 04 50 09 00 23 1 2,0 h'i 13 OD 17 41.0 49 56 40 23 45.0 Iiule.t error = — 47 sec. RESUI/r OV CALCUL,ATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. A. m n, sec. 4 57 50 //. min. see. 1 17 05.9 De^, mil}, sec. lOJ 12 23 E.\C.\.\li'.MENT ON THE SOUTH FORK OF PLATTE RIVER, NEAR CHERRY CREEK. Dii.irmination of latitude, July 7, 1843 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudeu of Polaris. Time of chronometer. /) JC. min. sec, 77 14 30 77 15 00 h. min. sec, 10 07 56 09 52 Indux error = — 2 min. i3 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. O ;'. m'lt, se\ •18 36 09 23~ Mean time. h. min, sec. 8 52 54 Latitude. D'g. min, sec. 39 43 53 'r ^\ ■ -nl l^ V ' :.•■ fi my k , v'l , 1 li :T:i i|.^i;iH 11', i '■■' m i4 ; ' ' ■■■ 'In III [ 174 3 354 ENCAMPMENT 0\ THE SOUTH FOHK OF PLATTE RIVEU. Di'lcrminnlion nj io!\i:;i/,i(f(,Jii/t/ «, 18 13 — ullitudrs- cf the sun. OHSKUVATIONS. rilt.HT SKI) I KM. D(iiil)l(> i\liiiii(lcs (irtho Tinu' of chronomrti'r. Buii ii lower liinlj. Dn:. tn'ii. rrr. 17 \\ no 17 f.r) 11) 18 4.') 10 19 orj JTi 19 :io J 5 « f)l) 5/ '11. :fi.5 5G.5 51.0 ICJ.f. HF.f'ONll SKIIirS, DiinMc ^illiliiilps ol'ilin Mi.i's loucr liiiili. 00 lu ••vt ao 20 (II) 5) t:o Ti:iie ofchrdrKnioliT. It. hi II •,■■. u r.-/ 4h ■! fiH 2(1.0 5!) 01 .1 SO li'Mi 7 (.0 1 1.0 liiilc.x crior r^. — 'Jnomrter. liiiii'M Imvor limb. //. in in. ."fr. 1 • -— - ni!i'. MC. 7 r>H 0:i 4:j IS 40 ft!) 01.0 4:1 .'):i 40 ."ia S7.(l 1 '•^ 4S 30 8 0,1 18.0 ! 44 OS ;ift 0(1 ryi.o 44 20 40 A. 1)1 !n. A/r. H 01 ftn.'J 02 i8i 0) 07 2 '):» fiO..') 04 :io.,j Index error --^ -J- 2 niiii. 1) see. HESirLT OF CALCULATION. Moan tinia. Ill lit. 45 34 EKCAMPMENT AT liOlLIiNG SPRINGS. Determinii ion of longitude, July 18. 184J — altitudes of the sun, OBiiKHVATION!!i. Double altitudfs of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. D''g. min. aec. 101 00 10 101 21 00 102 05 65 102 20 20 102 34 40 //. min. sec. 10 32 12 5 82 fi9.3 84 66.2 3ft 36.0 86 12.3 Index error ^ -|- 1 min. 60 sec. BESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. min- is sec. .35 Advance. h. min, 1 09 aec. 68.6 Longitude. Deg. min, tee. 105 22 45 /r,KM, oj the sun. of I'lir ■nniiH'tcr //. in'nt. nc- 8 01 f)ii/J 02 £H't (1) 07 i '):j ftd.'i «)■! :to.,) ingitudo. mill. 58 sec. 30 o/Z/iC jun. 367 ENCAMPMENT AT DOII.INn wl»IilNU8. C 174 3 Vtttrmimition of longitude, Julif IS, lS'\3—dialunce /rotn the moon's second limb to the sun. OBSKKVATIONS. Timo of chronometer. k. min. tee. 10 49 10 no 44 62 01 63 10 64 20 65 66 67 03 68 31 69 3J 11 00 42 02 03 03 16 01 39 06 06 07 45 08 60 10 06 10 69 11 68 13 17 Apparent (liHtanri\ De^. min. tfe 99 46 60 09 46 80 99 44 20 09 44 00 99 43 25 09 48 45 09 42 15 99 42 10 99 41 20 99 40 65 99 40 26 99 40 00 09 39 30 90 38 60 99 38 10 99 37 55 99 37 06 09 37 20 99 36 35 99 36 40 Index enor — + 1 min. 30 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. H True distance. Mean time at Greenwich. )metcr, H Dff(. min. tec. ■ 99 86 33 h. min. tec. 16 60 47 sec. 12 5 B9.3 56.2 .•55.0 12.3 Longitude. ll\ i fi f,.» Longitude. mm. tee. 22 45 • \ L 174 ] 358 ENCAMPMENT AT BOILING SPRINGS. Determination of longitudey July 18, 1843 — altitudes of the sun, OL.;ERVATTONS. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. DPir. min. xec. h. min. aec. 136 48 10 2 10 30.0 136 28 50 11 49.5 136 11 40 12 59.0 135 68 60 13 51.0 135 48 25 14 33.0 Mean time. h. min. tec, 1 02 49 Index error z= + 1 min. 30 sec. KESULT OF CALCULATION. Advance; h min. sec. 1 09 55.3 Longitude. Deg, min. tee. 105 22 45 359 C 174] ENCAMPMENT AT BOILING SPRINGS. Determination of latitude, July IS, 18i;J — ull.liules of Polaris, OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of PolariiS. Time of chronometer. D^x- min. sec. h. m!n. sec. 76 39 10 U 01 04 76 40 00 03 17 76 41 50 04 59 76 40 10 06 20 76 45 20 12 04 76 47 30 14 32 76 61 50 18 53 76 61 50 20 31 76 63 20 « 22 14 Index error == — 30 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. 3» min. 21 sec. 22 Latitude. Deg. min. tee. 38 52 10 "«:,■,''•. f ;" ^^^ -;.! T iy Determination of longitude, July 18, 1843 — altitudes of Arcturus. OBSERVATIONS. FIRST SERIES. SECOND SERIES. Double altitudes of Arcturus. Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of Arcturus. Time of chronometer. Dtg. min. sec. 89 14 30 88 20 10 87 40 45 87 06 10 86 41 30 h. min. sec. 10 45 57.0 47 48.5 49 57.0 51 22.0 52 30.0 1 I Deg. min. sec. \ 73 50 00 ! 73 18 40 i 72 44 15 1 i h. min. see. 11 25 36.0 26 54 28 23.0 Index error = — 30 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. h. 11 mm. 08 sec. 14 Advance. h. min. 1 09 sec. 45.8 Longitude. Hi' '- i^'-Pg I ill I- ii m I i % u m ■■ 1 C 174 ] 360 ENCAMPMENT AT BOILING SPRINGS. Determinuiion of lonp;ilu — 30 sec H ' RESULT OF CALCULATION. Latitude. mm. see. 41 45 ^H •» of Polaris. | Mean time. Advance. Longitude. ^1 h. min. tee. k. min. sec. Dig. min. aec. ^H 10 07 36 1 08 17.7 105 25 38 meter. ^H * ^M ■ 56 ■ ■ 27 ■ ■ ■ H ■ 07 H ■^ ■ ' 1 w 5{{U Pil-:^ 'I' B'- [ 174 ] 362 ST. VRAIN'S FORT. Determination of laiitiiJe, July 23, 1S43 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSEHVATIONS. De/erm P ! Double altitudes of Polaris. Deg. min. sec. 79 49 20 79 49 50 79 49 00 79 51 30 79 52 30 79 56 40 79 59 15 80 00 00 80 01 50 80 02 25 Time of chrouonipter. II. min. .see 11 04 32 06 31 or 41 10 30 12 21 15 57 18 06 20 40 22 39 24 00 Index error = — • 37 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Deg, mm. sec. 39 66 09 Mean time. h. min. see. 10 07 44 Latitude. Deg, min. sec. 40 17 12 PduMc alti tudef Arcturiis, S'g. min. sec ii .19 30 63 23 20 a 43 10 62 02 20 61 24 40 h. 10 Dett rmtn ki 'i Determination of latitude, July 23, 1S43 — meridian altitude ofo.dquilx, OBSERVATION. Double altitudes of a Aquilro. True altitude. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 116 22 35 Deg, min. mc. 58 11 06 Deg. min. sec- 40 16 33 FIR DouHe altitudes of tl Hins lower limb. — h. min. sec M 29 50 i'i 44 60 54 00 20 54 11 50 54 29 25 M h. 7 n. see. t 32 J 31 r H t) 30 2 21 5 57 8 06 40 2 39 4 00 Deg. min. see, 40 n 12 Ititude of a. JiquM 3G:3 C 174] ST. VRAIN'S FORT. Belcrrninaiioii of time, July 23, 1843 — altiludes of Arcturus. OBSKRVATIONS. FIRST SEniES. SECOND IKRIES. Boubic altituJes of Arcturiis. Time of chronometer. Double altitudeti of Arcturus. Time of chronometer. D'f, mm. sec. 63 ?9 30 63 23 20 6J 43 10 62 02 20 61 24 40 h. min. sec. 11 27 59 29 34 31 16 33 06 34 44 Deg. min. sec. 60 18 20 59 54 00 59 31 .30 59 12 25 k. min. see. 11 37 40 38 39 39 37 40 27 Index error == -f. 1 min. 30 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. h. min. sec. 10 28 40 Advance. h. min. sec. 1 06 32.5 Determination of time, July 24, ^ t3 — altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. FIRST SERIES. SECOND SERIES. Me altitudes of the mil's lower limb. L Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. % mm. sec. 53 29 50 53 44 50 54 00 20 54 11 50 54 29 25 h. 8 min. sec. 28 16.4 28 54.0 29 35.5 30 05.0 30 51.6 Deg. min. sec. 54 42 50 54 57 50 55 07 50 55 16 50 55 28 15 h. min. 8 31 32 32 32 33 sec. 26.0 08 2 34.0 56.8 26.5 Index error = - RESULT OP C - 1 min. 30 sec. ALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. h. min. sec. 7 24 51 A. min. see. 1 06 10.5 ■\ '■]• f.S" If';- . !l i ' t illi uy.. 1 M ■i ! [ 174 ] 364 ST. VRAIN'S FORT." Determination of time, July 25, 1843 — alliludes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. FIRST altitudes of the lower limb. SERIES. Time of chronometer. SECOND SERIES. Double sun's Double altituiles of the sun's lower limb. Time of chtonomcter. ^- 43 44 44 44 min. sec. 33 45 48 30 01 00 10 60 21 30 h. mm. sec. 8 02 03.2 02 42.0 03 16.0 03 42.0 04 08.0 Deg. m>n. sfc. 44 34 50 44 4.5 40 44 58 10 45 1 1 50 45 22 15 h. min. sec. 8 04 45.0 05 14.0 0.5 47 06 22.0 06 49.5 ■ index error = + 1 min. 80 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. — ^ Advance. h. min. see. 6 58 67 h. min. sec. 1 05 31.8 The daily losing rate of the chronometer, obtained lirom the observations at this place, i833",7}| D;^. min. 47 50 4i; 5(i w 27 Time of chronometerj 363 [ 171 ] ninMPMENT 0^^ A HIGH PRAIRIE, HROK'EX BY BIirTKS AND TIOTJI.DRTJ.S, ^Viril f^(''Al"l'RRRI) (nODAKs, FORMINCJ THK DI VIDLNG (iUOUNU--^ UE J' WEEX I \1!AM1E and CACIIE-A la POUDKE KIVEIiS. D:U,minittio)i of loni^Hiidc, July 30, \S\3-~-allilu(lcs of t^^rctunis. observations. Friisr sFuiES. Double altitudfi:) of [ Time of chronometer. Ariltirus. D'v. in'ni. sec. 47 50 00 41) 5fi 40 40 27 40 /;. ruin. ncr. li 40 3!> 5 43 005 44 1.).5 SF.COM) Sr.lllES. Double nllitudca of Arclurus. Time of chronometer. Dcs;. mill. sec. 45 46 30 45 05 40 44 45 20 Index error = + ! min. 30 soc. /(. min. sec. 11 4(5 or.o 47 55.5 48 50.0 '■■^J i0 J T M nm. sec. 05 31-8 RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. h. min, sec. lU 41 18 Advance. h, min. 1 03 sec. 53.2 Longitude. 10.5 mm. sec. 35 17 •ns at this place, is 33",7* Bdcrniination of latHuJCiJuly 30, 1843 — allitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Deg. min, sec, 8-4 20 00 8v: 2 1 00 Time of chronometer. k. min. sec. U 65 U 57 39 Index error == + I min. 30 sec. RESULT OP calculation. Latitude. Deg. min, sec. 41 02 19 fivjy^ f. I. ; *.'■■!' I ■ 'i 1 fi t> M [ n4 ] 366 ENCAMI'MENT NKAK THE PIUJCCDING. Determinaliou of lalUxak^ Julij 31, 1813 — meridian alUlude ry/zAccJ OnSEHVATION. Double altiludi! of the sun'a luvvur iiinl). D'if. in'ii. ycc. 131 60 ;30 'J'luc central altitude Dci^. }/i'n. ST. OV 14 27 Latituilt'. 4 1 1 I (; ENCAMPMENT ON EARAMIE KIVEK. Dclcrmiii(t!iu)i of Itillludc, Julij 31, IJS'lo — a//iludc.s af J'u/uris. OH'-KltVATIONS. Kiioi' sr.niKs, SKCOMI SKPIKS. Double nltiludcs of PolariK. Deg. min Time of olironoinctcr. j! Double altitudes of | Time of chrononidei i PolarlH. I 81 81 81 81 tec. :!() ;Jil 30 00 32 0.0 32 50 35 00 //. min. sec. 1 i Deg 10 13 V5 SI 15 38 i 81 17 57 81 19 25 81 21 04 81 11 a 'I ser. ! t 10 41 45 43 00 41 00 40 40 Index error ==: — 30 see. KESULT OF CALCULATION. Delcrmn Diuililr nltiti Arctuni /)-. mill. (ill :]-, H (8 49 OS 20 Gs 00 Mean h. min 40 II. mill. sec, ■ 10 •Zi 51 ■ 29 41 ■ .'!() l-i ■ 31 Si 111 H — H Dderminaf ■ True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. ■ Double altitud ^M lower Deg. min. sec 40 47 22 h. min. sec. 9 19 19 Deg. m'n. m. 41 15 Oi fl Deg. t ■ 132 t/<';'. in hi. ,*•(•. 4 1 04 t (! t( 31 in 34 :i.) 3S7 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT ON LAUAMTE KIVER. Delcrminnlion of loimilnde, Jnhj 31, IS 13 — aUUudes nf ^returns. onsERVATIONS. FinsT SKHIKS. BKCOSD clKni£». Diuililf nltiliidcs of Time of chror omclor. Double altitudes of Time f clirouonictcr. Aicturus. //. iiiin. sec. Arclurus. D'ir. utht. frc lh Df^, min. 47 12 46 47 46 13 45 53 45 20 Mea ^. 771; 10 3 i/lu(/eo/l/iesini. l^. mm. HFC. I 45 59 36.0 [ 474 ] ENCAMPMENT ON MEDICINE BOW RIVER. Determination of longitude, Jiugunt 2, 1 843 — altitudes of *flrcturu», OBSERVATIONS. Index error = — 30 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. h- min. sec. 10 34 59 Advance. Lonsitude. h. min. sec. 1 06 57.1 Immersion of the first satellite of Jupiter. Observed time. Mean time. Longitude. h. min. sec, 11 01 28 h. min. sec. 9 54 31 Detr. min. see. 106 48 21 |#V|: J .-i,*t.f m h. )■■ ' '^ ''' I' 1 »f"lf i I r V. 24 I i' .i [ 174 ] 370 NOON HAI/r ON A TniBUTARY TO THE NORTH FORK OF PLATTE RIVER Determination of latitude, Jius^mt 3, 1843— .jj/nV meridian altHude. Double allilude of the sun's lower limb. Deg. min. .lee. 131 23 00 True central altitude. Ifeg. ruin. itee. 05 87 40 Tiotituue. />e- CALCULATION. Nfean time. Advance. h. min. sec. 1 08 01.3 Longitude. /i. til in. sec. 1 24 51 Deg. mill, lec 107 22 27 Determination of latitude — meridian alt itude of tlte sun. Double altitude of the sun's lower limb. True central altitude. Latitude. Deg. mi 11. .sec. 13U 18 45 Deg. min. sec. 65 25 37 Deg. min. sec. 41 35 59 F PLATTE RIVER. tridian altUudt. 'E RIVER. lides of the sun, SERII8. Time of chronometer, h. min. sec. 8 3y 06.3 33 33.5 34 05.0 34 32.0 34 56.0 Longitude. J)e^. min. «c- 107 22 27 of the sun. Latitude. Dee. min. »«• 41 35 59 371 [ 174 ] NOON HALT ON A HKiH PLAIEAC UETWEHN I'HE W A'1EK8 OF THE AT- LANTIC AND THE OULF OF CALIFORNIA. Dderminalion o/ la tii tide, August 8, \SA3—merii/i(in uUitude qfthe sun. Tifttitude. I Double altitude of the huii'k H lower limb. True i-entral aititiulf. Latitude. 4e Des;. min. 41 3r. H Deg. min. aec. ■ 137 ^47 IS Dtg. min. tee. 64 09 38 Dag. min. see. 42 03 07 Index error ss •!• 1 min. 43 tec. NOON HALT AT THE GAP IN THE SWEET WATER MOUNTAINS. Determination n/lali/vdeft/ingiisl 1), 1S43 — meridian altitude of t/iestm Double altitude of the Hun'H lower limb. True central Altitude. Latitude. Deg. min. see. 126 36 35 Deif. min. ace. 63 34 30 Dec;, min. .<>ec. 42 20 06 Index error = -f- 1 min 40 sec. llil (': llil ■':■ 1*., 'T ' r a-' m U i ^? «^ -id [ 174 ] 372 ENCAMPMENT ON THE SWEET WATER RIVER. Determination of longitude, August f>, 1843 — altitudes of JupiUr. * OB.SERVATIONS. FIKST SLIIIES. Deg. 51 51 51 51 52 mm. 06 25 41) 53 07 ■sec. 10 50 00 30 50 li. 11 mm. 30 ■.n 33 34 35 sec. 23.6 56.5 05.0 12.0 iS.O SECONn SRniKn. Time of chronomet^-, V 11 min. 3fi 37 38 39 40 24.0 28.5 33.:) Index error = — 30 sec RESULT Of CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. ace. 10 28 28 h. min . sf.c. 1 07 14.1 Immersion of Jupiter's first satellite. Observed tirp.c. Mean time. Longitude. A. min. sec. 12 52 23 h. min. sec 11 45 11 Deg. min. sec- 107 50 25 Time of chronometer. V /(. min. **'i'. 11 3fi :i..i 37 24.1 38 24.0 39 28..- 40 33.3 373 • [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT ON THE SWEET WATER RIVER. j)(termination of longitude, j9vgtisl 0, 1S4 3 — altitudes ofo. Aquilx. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of a A qui Ik. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. Ill 22 40 111 03 20 k. min. tec. 11 59 58 12 04 33 Index error ^ — 30 sec. RESUf.T OP CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. iif H. 1. NOON HALT ON THE SWEET WATER RIVER. Determination of latitude, %/iug, 10, 1843 — meridian altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. Dottble altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. see. 125 40 10 ] 12 52 125 10 85 13 43 125 39 50 14 26 125 39 25 15 20 125 38 20 16 12 125 38 10 16 51 125 37 20 17 37 125 37 00 18 07 Index error := -+- 1 min. 40 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Dee. 63 mm. 05 sec. 56 Latitude. Deg. min. "aec. 42 31 17 [ 174 ] J74 NOON HALT NEAR THE SOTITH PASS, ON A SMALL AFFLUENT TO THB SANDY FORK OF GKEEN RIVER. Dei^minnlion of latitude, August 13, 1843 — meridian altitude of the sun. Double altitude of the sun's lower limb. De^. min. see. 124 14 45 Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 42 19 53 ENCAMPMENT ON A SMALL STREAM TRIBUTARY TO THE LITTLE SANDY RIVER. Determination of longitude, August 13, lSA3~~altitudes of ^returns. OBSERVATIONS. riRST SBRIE8. SXCOirO 8EBIB8. Double altitudes of Arcturus. Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of Arcturus. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. see. 69 10 00 68 49 50 - 68 30 20 68 12 10 67 53 50 h. min. see. 9 56 15.0 57 10.0 58 01.6 58 52.3 59 40.0 Deg. min. sec. 67 35 40 67 16 20 66 5V 45 66 38 50 66 17 30 h. min. see. 10 00 30.0 01 23.5 02 13.3 03 05.5 04 03.0 Index error = — 30 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. h. 8 mm. 48 sec. 39 Advance. k. min. 1 11 see. 27.9 Longitude. Deg. min. see- 109 25 56 375 C 174] tniPAMPMENT ON A SMALL STREAM TRIBUTARY TO THE LI I'TLE SANDY ^^ RIVER. of chronometer. min. see. 00 30.0 01 23.5 02 13.3 03 05.5 04 03.0 Determinaiion of latitude^ August 13, 1843 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polarisu Deg. men. sec. 83 46 10 83 45 40 83 47 00 83 47 10 83 48 30 83 49 50 83 51 50 83 51 50 83 52 40 83 53 30 Time of chronometer. h. min. see 9 41 35 43 10 44 38 46 04 47 15 48 22 50 05 50 58 51 43 52 39 Index error — i — 30 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. *• True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. dig. min. sec. 41 53 23 A. min. sec. 8 36 12 Deg. min. see. 42 18 08 ''Ml ''^ 3 M 'II ll [ 174 ] 376 NOON HALT ON THE LITTLE SANDY RIVER. Determination of latitude, Jiu{. st 14, 1843 — meridian altitudes of > the sun* OBSERVATIONS. ' Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Deff. min. sec 123 39 10 123 41 00 123 42 05 123 44 30 123 46 00 123 46 50 123 46 45 123 48 10 123 47 55 123 48 00 123 47 25 123 47 1 123 45 31 123 45 10 123 44 25 123 43 35 Time of chronometer. h. min. sec. 1 06 46 07 57 09 06 10 21 11 41 12 55 13 33 14 25 IS 23 16 10 17 08 18 02 20 03 21 00 21 57 22 42 - Index error t= _(_ 1 min. 40 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. \ I ' 1! j ■ i ;i True altitude. Apparent time of transit. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 62 U9 62 h. min. sec. 1 16 36 Deg. min. sec. 42 15 11 ■:\ '] I I; I; iiii 'I 3-7 [ 174 3 ENCAMPMENT ON THE LEFT BANK OF GREEN RIVER. Dttermination of longitude, %9ugust 15, 1843 — altitudes of Jireturus, OBSERVATIONS. FIRST SERIES. SECOKO 8:. HIES. Double altituclef) of Arcturas Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of Arcturus. 1 Time of chronometer. Dte, min, sec. 58 13 40 57 35 10 57 13 10 66 46 30 56 13 10 h. min. sec. 10 19 24 21 09 22 07 23 16 24 46 [ 1 Deg. min. set. \ 5'i 40 00 I 55 16 00 54 50 30 54 29 50 54 09 50 h. min. see, 10 26 13.6 27 18.6 28 26.4 29 25.0 30 18.3 Index error = — 28 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. k. min. see. 9 12 18 h. min. sec. 1 12 56.8 Deg. min. see. IIU 06 05 I :.. jfti r'- ' 'ii 1 Determination of latitude, Jlugust 15, 1843 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. * Double alt-tudtd of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. see. 83 44 40 10 36 29 83 46 40 38 17 83 47 10 39 51 83 49 00 42 23 83 50 00 43 36 83 51 46 44 49 83 52 10 46 27 83 63 30 47 54 83 55 20 49 42 83 65 45 I 60 36 Index error = — 28 sec. RESULT Of CALCULATtON. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 41 63 69 A. min. sec. 9 31 03 Deg. min. sec. 41 63 54 i'f i; i 'i ¥ li ni !■ *a i1 ji .1 ■ J .< [ 174 ] 378 ENCAMPMENT ON THE LEFT BANK OF GREEN RIVER. l>e.termination of longitude, Jiugust 16, 1843 — altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. FIRST SERIES. SECOXD SERIES. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronome- ter. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronome Deg. min. sec. 18 28 20 18 54 40 19 09 10 19 32 00 19 48 50 A. mm. sec. 7 18 00.4 19 17.0 20 00.0 21 02.5 21 49.2 Deg. min. sec, 20 05 20 20 18 30 20 29 20 20 48 10 21 00 50 h. min. 7 22 23 23 24 25 sec. 32.3 09.4 37.7 30.4 05.4 Index error <= 4> 1 min. 44 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. A. min, sec. 6 09 02 Advance. h. min. 1 12 sec. 51.8 Longitude. Determination of longitude, August, 16, 1843 — distances from the second limb of the moon to the sun. OBSERVATIONS WITH THE CIRCLE. Apparent distance. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. A. min. sec. 53 32 35 8 16 10 503 09 40 20 03 449 40 00 30 19 503 18 40 37 19 RESULT OF CALCULATION. True distance. Mean time at Greenwich. Longitude. Deg. min. sec, 108 22 29 A. min. sec. 2 29 22 ■ 379 [ 174] ime of chronometer i. min. see. 7 22 32.3 23 09.4 23 37.7 24 30.4 25 05.4 VOON HALT ON GREEN RIVER, NEAR THE OF.D TRADING HOUSE, WHERE THE ROAD TO T«E COLUMBIA LEAVES THE RIVER. Diltrmination of latitude^ Aug. 16, 1843 — meridian altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. Index error = -|- 1 min. 42 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. » Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec. 123 18 20 1 06 41 123 20 34 08 80 123 24 00 10 S8 123 26 OU IS OS 123 26 50 18 SI 123 27 45 14 06 123 27 35 17 19 123 26 15 19 85 123 24 45 SI 30 123 23 25 38 48 123 21 20 S4 06 True altitude. Apparent time of transit. Latitude. dtg. min. sec. 63 00 28 - h. min. sec. I 12 37 Deg. min. sec. 41 46 54 I . ','*: ( from the second ENCAMPMENT ON BLACK'S FORK OF GREEN RIVER. Determination of latitude, Jlugust 17, 1843 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. 86 15 86 14 sec. 40 30 ft. min. sec. 5 30 45 a. m. 36 08 Index error = — 30 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 43 06 15 h. min. sec. 4 19 52 Deg. min. sec. 41 37 31 Determination of longitude, August 17, 1843 — Emersion of Jupiter's first satellite. Observed time. Mean time. « Longitude. h. min. sec. 6 03 11 a. m. h. min. sec. 3 50 35 hi' C 174 ] 380 ENCAMPMENT ON BLACK'S FORK OF GREEN RIVER. Determination of longitude, JJiigust 17, 1843 — altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. FIHST HERIKH. • SECOKD HERIES. Double altitudert of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. 19 58 55 20 22 40 20 34 35 20 48 05 21 00 10 A. min. 7 23 21 24 25 25 sec. 03.7 09.0 42.0 17.4 52 2 Deg. min. sec. 21 20 50 21 33 35 21 45 50 22 02 25 22 15 20 A. min. see. 7 26 46,7 27 22.0 27 66.2 28 41.6 29 15.5 Index error = — 30 see. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. sec. 6 13 46 k, min. sec. 1 12 33.2 Deg. min. sec. 110 10 28 SECOND ENCAMPMEN"^ ON BLACK'S FORK OF GREEN RIVER. Determination of longitttde, jiiigust 17, 1843 — altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. FIHST SEBIE8. Double altitudes of the Time of chronometer, sun's lower limb. Deg. min. see. 44 45 25 44 30 40 44 18 60 44 06 ip 43 55 00 h. 6 mm. 03 03 04 04 05 sec. 08.6 46.? 20.6 54.0 22.5 SECOND 8EBIE8. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Deg. min. sec 43 43 40 31 21 12 01 Time of chronometer. A. 6 43 43 43 43 65 00 40 00 mm. 05 06 06 07 07 Index error = -\- Z min. 07 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. sec. 53.4 26.6 55,0 17.2 49.4 Mean time. A. 4 mtn. 52 sec. 20 Longitude. RIVER. des of the sun. BRIES. rime of chronometer. h. min. «ec. 7 26 46,7 27 22.0 27 56.2 28 41.6 29 15.5 Longitude. f. mm. sec. ) 10 28 EN RIVER. ies of the sun, IBIES. 'ime of chronometer. A. miji. sec. ■ 6 05 53.4 06 26.6 06 55.0 07 17.2 07 49.4 Longitude. 3bl [ 1T4 ] SECOND ENCAMPMENT ON BLACK'S FORK OF GREEN RIVER. Determination of longitude^ Jlugust 17, 1843 — allitudea of Arcturus. OBSERVATIONS. * FIHST HRRIES. SECOND aSHIES. Double altitudes of the Time of chronometer. i Double altitudes of the Time of chronometer. sun's lower limb. sun's 1 lower limb. J)tg. min. sec. h. min. sec. 1 i/iin. sec. h. mill. sec. 59 43 30 10 07 41.0 i 55 04 50 10 20 07.0 59 00 00 09 38.0 54 40 40 21 07.0 58 34 15 10 44.5 54 27 40 21 47.6 .58 08 15 11 .^6.0 54 02 50 22 49.4 57 41 10 13 08.0 63 42 80 23 43.2 Index error = — 31 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. sec. 9 03 05 k. min. sec. 1 13 11.3 Deg. min. sec. 110 25 06 Determination of latitude, August 17, 1843 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS, Double altitudes of Polarid. Time of chronometer. De^. min. sec. h. min. sec. 82 55 10 10 27 53 82 57 10 28 13 82 58 30 29 28 82 59 15 31 04 82 59 50 32 21 83 00 10 33 58 83 01 00 35 25 83 03 00 37 11 83 04 00 38 09 83 04 15 39 03 Index error = — 30 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean tuno. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 41 28 46 k. min. sec. 9 20 08 Deg. min. sec. 41 29 53 r I ,1,- • r r. < ,1' i i ;; ' ;f"ii', !-■• il ■'»'■' J if ■{| i:n ■J I [ 174 ] 382 8EC0ND ENCAMPMENT ON BLACK'S FORK OF GREEN RIVER. Determination of longitude. Jiugust IS, 1843 — altitudes qf a ^quUs * OBSKRVATIONS. Double t'.Uitui1e8 of a Aquiltc. Time of chronometer. Den. mm. .*«c 73 51 10 74 29 10 U 57 30 76 22 40 75 54 30 h. min. aec. 2 42 38 a. m. 44 23 46 42 46 61 48 18 Index error = — 30 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. Determination of latiiudey .August 18, 1843 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. 75 7ft 75 min. 28 29 sec. 10 15 25 h. 2 min. 51 52 54 sec. 02 a. ra. 50 59 Index error = — 30 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. BEEN RIVER. tides qf a JiquxiBt. ndes of Polaris. jhronometer. 383 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT ON A SMALL STREAM TRIBUTARY TO HAM'S FORK. Deter minati on of longitude, %flugust 18, 1843 — altitudes of Jvpiter. OnSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Jupiter. Time of cliroiioincter. Deir. mill sec. h. min. sec. 60 15 10 11 41 24.0 60 29 30 43 02.4 60 41 40 44 29.0 60 53 00 4S 42.6 61 02 10 46 47.0 Index error ■== — 32 hcc. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Longitude. Bekrmination of longilude,^ugiist 18, 1843 — altitudes of a ^^ndromedse, OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of a Andromcdic. Time of chronoiaclcr. Dtfr. min. see. L min. sec. 90 19 30 11 53 52.0 91 00 20 55* 26.0 91 32 00 5(5 56.4 91 56 20 57 55.0 • 92 21 00 69 05.0 Index error = — 32 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. A. min- sec, 10 42 49 h. min. sec. 1 13 49.4 Longitude. Dcg. min. sec. 1 10 45 58 ;i . ' ft !, !''■ I,; P-i:i [ 174 ] 3:^4 ENCAMPMENT ON A SMALL «TKEAM TKIDUrAUY TO HAM'S FORK. Determination of latitude, duguat 18, 1843 — altiluites of PolurU OBiERV\TIO^fS. Double altitudei) of Poiarlf. "a- min. mc. 04 40 84 06 50 8* (IS 10 84 11 00 84 10 50 84 u 40 84 15 m 84 16 40 84 20 10 84 •il 80 Time of chronometer. /i. min. .i?fl Vi 02 14 04 10 06 07 08 25 09 51 14 12 16 18 19 06 22 49 24 51 Index error — — 32 sec. Determination of longitude, Jiugust 19, 1843 — altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Dfg. min. sec. h, min. tec. 21 33 40 7 30 29.6 21 47 50 31 04.6 21 59 20 31 37.3 22 16 20 32 22.i 06..* 22 32 00 33 Index error =: — 30 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. A. min, sec. 6 17 57 Advance. h. min. sec 1 13 46.9 Longitude. htUrmina Iloubli- nil S i Trup altitude. Moan time. Lfttitu. Apparent time of transit. Latitude. Dtg. min. .sec. U 15 19 1 mm. sec. 17 00 Deg. min . sec. 41 34 25 NOON HALT ON MUDDY RIVER. htimnination of laiitxide,%iiig. 22, 184 3 — meridiafl allUudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. ■ altitudes of the sun's lower litnb. ^B ISouble ouuineter. ■ min. -1 Deg. iCC. sec ■ 121 06 10 29.6 04.6 37.3 22.x 06..* 1 121 121 121 121 06 07 08 08 55 30 00 10 J 121 121 121 08 08 08 30 40 30 ■ 121 or 40 Time of chronometer. mm. sec. 11 55 13 08 13 58 14 63 15 48 16 52 17 33 18 34 19 44 Longitude. Index error = + 1 min. 23 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. True altitude. Apparent time of transit. Otg. min. tec. 60 50 08 W h, min. sec. 1 17 02 Latitude. Deg. min, sec. 41 39 45 A '. \U m A ■'. %. hi tr-: Hv K^i^ y C 174] 386 NOON HAI/r ON BEAK RIVER. Determination of latitude, ^'ixig. 21, 1843 — meridian altiludes of the sun. OnSEBVATIONS. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Dcg. min. sec. h. min. sec. 119 57 30 1 11 A-i 119 58 10 13 00 119 59 45 14 01 120 00 45 16 23 130 00 35 17 12 120 00 211 .17 56 119 59 30 . 20 84 119 58 50 21 36 119 57 30 22 41 True altitude. Index error = + 1 min. 20 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Apparent time of transit. Latitude. 1 DeiT. min. sec. h. min. iCC, Deg. min. WC. 60 16 15 1 17 02 41 53 .55 ENCAMPMENT ON BEAR RIVER. Determitiation of longitude, Aug. 21, 1843 — altitudes ofArcturu^. OBSEUVATIONS. FinST SERIES. SECOND SKRIKS. Double altitudes of 'I'imc of chronometer. Double altitudes of Time of chronomete:. Arcturus. i Arcturus. Deg. min. sec. h. nin. sec. Deg. min. sec. h. min. s(c- 68 53 10 9 55 05.5 54 43 15 10 06 1^: 57 33 00 57 50.0 54 07 10 07 .56.1) 57 22 30 59 110 53 28 20 09 41.0 56 34 20 10 01 22.0 52 44 80 11 .36 55 44 20 03 34.: i 51 53 50 13 54.0 Index error --= + 30 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. h. min. sec. 8 55 52 Longitude. Deg. nin. tu. Ill 10 53 Determinatio !es of the nun. 3sr [ 174] ENCAMPMENT ON BEAR RIVER. Determination of latitude, »iiugust 31, 1S43 — altitudes of Polaris. OBiiERVATIONS. leter. sec. 414 00 01 23 12 56 34 36 41 jatitudc. . mm, std. 53 55 of , ^returns. IF.S. mc of chronometer. h. min. {■■■f. 10 06 !i' 07 .i6,!l 09 41. J 11 360 13 54.') Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. 7nin. sec. h. ;«(■>!. sec. 84 08 20 10 19 26 84 10 30 21 22 84 10 20 22 23 84 12 50 23 24 84 13 10 25 07 84 14 00 se 13 84 16 10 ■ »7 46 84 17 00 88 04 84 17 20 39 Si 84 18 20 31 47 ''idex error = — 30 'Campmi:nt on bear river, near tts mouth. Determination of latitude, Sept. 2. 1843 — attitudes of Polaris. Observations. Dotible altitudes of Polaris. Deg. min. sec. 83 25 40 83 26 10 83 27 50 83 28 20 83 29 20 Time of chronometer. h. 10 mtn, see. 01 45 02 03 05 06 58 58 13 19 Index error = — 30 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 41 42 23 A. min. sec. 8 52 24 Deg, min. see. 41 30 27 Merminatioi Determination of longitude, Sept. 2, 1813 — altitudes of a ^ndromedse. OBSERVATIONS. FIRST SEHIES. SECOITD SERIES. Double altitudes of a Andromedse. Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of a Andromedse. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. see. 79 37 40 80 19 10 80 43 40 h. min. 10 24 25 27 sec. 04.0 53.5 03.0 Deg. min. sec. 81 08 20 81 31 10 81 48 20 h. min. itc. 10 28 06.0 29 06.5 29 52.5 Mean time. h. min, sec. 9 15 39 Index error « -f-l min. 25 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. Advance. h. min. sec. 11 39.4 Longitude. 395 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT ON BEAR RIVEK, NEAR ITS MOUTH. ])ittrinination of latitude, Sept. 2, 1843 — meridian altitudes qf a ^guilte, OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of a Aquiltc. Time o> chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. see. 113 59 50 10 14 16 113 56 20 16 12 113 55 10 17 32 113 53 20 19 00 113 50 40 20 18 ■"(• Index error •• — 30 sec. True altitude. Deg. min. sec. 67 00 38 RESULT OP CALCULATION. Latitude. I'W Mtrmination of longitude, September 2, 1843 — emersion of Jupiter^ s third satellite. Observed time. , Mean time. Longitude. A. min. see. 10 51 56 h. min. see. 9 43 14 « f r of chronometer. Emersion of Jupiter's fourth satellite. Obeerved time. Mean time. h. min. see. 11 03 29 h. 9 min. sec. 51 47 Longitude. •1 :' Mi 't "l K Emersion of Jupiter^s second satellite. Observed time. Mean time. Longitude. h. min. sec. U 00 17 h. min. sec. 10 48 36.5 .•^ : >ikl C 174 ] 396 ENCAMPMENT ON BEAK KIVER, NEAK ITS MOUTH. Determination of longitude, September 3, 1843 — altitudes of the sun OBSERVATIONS. riRHT RBRIII. IKCOKD RBRIEg. Double altitudcii of the I Timn of chronometer. . Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb . I ' sun's lower limb. Deg. min. nee. 46 40 35 46 S-'i 50 47 '^9 10 47 27' 15 47 42 40 Time of chronometer. min. 63 63 64 54 55 itc. 2.3.5 62.8 22.3 48.0 25.3 Index error ^ -f- I min. 25 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. h, min. 7 41 SfC. 27 Longitude. Deg. min. 112 15 see. 46 ENCAMPMENT AT THE MOUTH OF BEAR RIVER. Determination of latitude, Sept. 3, 1843 — meridian altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. Dderminati Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. see. h. min. sec. Ill 40 35 1 07 46 111 41 10 09 00 111 41 35 10 01 111 41 35 • 10 57 111 40 40 12 17 111 40 40 13 03 111 40 25 13 50 111 39 30 14 61 Index error = + 1 min. 25 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Apparent time of transit. Latitude. Deg. min. »ec. h. min. sec. Deg. min. sec. 56 06 37 1 . 10 39 41 30 17 of tht sun. of chronometer. 63 23.5 53 52.8 54 22.3 64 48.0 65 25.3 es of the sun. iter. •f. .6 K) 1 \^ 7 13 lO • 1 itude. mm. 30 sec. 17 397 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT AT THE MOUTH OF DEAR RIVER. Dtltr mi nation of latitude, September 3, 1843 — meridian altitudes of a, Sqxtilm. OBSKRVATIONS. Double altitudet of a Aquilo!. Dtg. min. sec, 114 00 40 1 14 00 20 113 59 20 113 57 15 113 55 10 Time of chronomctGr. h. mm. sec 10 06 00 07 15 08 50 10 57 12 54 Index error «. -f- 1 min. 26 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. {itude. 1 True altitude. Apparent time of transit. • Latitude. 1 Deg. mill, .lec, ■ 57 00 48 //. 7nin. arc. 10 04 03 ' ntn, tee. 15 46 Determination of latitude, September 3, 1843 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. mill sec. h. »7ijn. sec. 83 30 40 10 15 58 83 41 15 17 29 S3 42 JO 18 49 83 43 ()0 20 00 8:1 41 40 21 '.:6 True altitude. Index error ^ -{- 1 min. 25 sec. r.ESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Deg, min. sec. 41 60 42 //. jiiin. sec. •J 07 20 Latitude. Deg, min. sec. 41 30 22 '■■111 U; I J ■(„.(•'!' ,^'" ' - ■»* l> ' i:( %: :l'«l [ 174 ] 398 ENCAMPMENT AT THE MOUTH OF BEAR RIVER. DtUrminution of Innf^itude^ September 3, 184U — (t^(ifu(ie,i o/,'}rc/urui 0USERVATI0N3. I lublc ullituilcH of Arcluiue). Time of clironomctcr Dt^. min. sre. h. min. 'ff. 38 21 50 •J 56 15,0 37 48 20 r.7 47.0 37 Z^ 40 58 .■50 36 flO 20 10 00 05.5 36 34 50 01 05.0 36 • 00 50 02 :J9.0 Index error <> -f- * mi"- 25 oec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. 1_ Mean time. Advance. h, min. sec. 8 48 04 h. min. sec I il 23.2 Longituile. Deg. min. itc. 112 21 30 Emersion of .Tup itcr\s I Hi I 174] 402 ON THE ISLAND IN THE GREAT SALT LAKE. Determination of longitude, September 9, 1843 — altitudes of Jircturun, OBSERVATIONS. FinST SF.RIES. SECOXl) SERIES. Double altitudes of Arcturus. Time of chronometer. i Double altitudea of \rcturu3. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. .sec. 58 58 50 58 05 10 57 29 40 66 !=3 40 56 20 20 k. min. 8 33 36 37 39 40 1 sec. 1 53.0 18.5 50.5 29.6 54.0 i Deg. min. sec. 54 53 .50 54 22 50 53 59 00 53 28 00 .52 49 50 h. min. sec. 8 44 47.0 46 04.6 47 09.2 48 33.0 50 1.3.0 Index error »= -\- 1 min. 40 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. sec. 7 34 29 h. min. sec. 1 08 02.6 Deg. min. sec. 112 21 05 f NOON HALT IN THE MUD. Determination of latitude, Sept. 10, 1843 — meridian altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of tlie sun's lower limb. | Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. 106 5(5 50 106 67 20 106 57 15 106 56 50 106 56 50 100 55 55 106 54 10 106 53 20 h. min. sec 1 01 43 02 55 04 14 05 24 06 31 07 40 10 04 10 42 Index error •= 1 min. 4C sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Ap))arent time of transit. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 53 44 42 h. min. tee. 1 04 16 Dee. min. sec. 41 14 17 D'g. m 39 1 39 38 5 38 4 38 2 403 [ m] es of *^rcturm. II£S. imc of chronometer. h. min. sec. 8 44 47.0 46 04.6 47 09.2 48 33.0 50 13.0 Longitude. 'eif. mm. sec, 12 21 05 itudesofthesun. nomcter. fiCC. 43 55 14 24 31 40 04 42 Latitude. min. sec. 14 17 ENCAMPMENT OF SEPTEMBER 7. Deiennination of lime, St-plember 11, 1S43 — altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. FIRST SERIES. SECo; n SERIES. I'cuble .Ititudcs of the Time of rhronometer. Double altitud ss of the Time of chro IOmeter. aint lower limb. sun's lower limb. Jk^. min. sec. h. min. .sec. !>%'. min. sec. /'. min. sec. 39 19 10 5 32 Oo.G ' 38 17 50 5 34 48.4 39 05 20 32 41.5 ' 38 03 50 35 26.7 38 53 20 33 !2.7 1 37 53 20 35 .55.0 3S 40 50 33 45.5 ; 37 43 10 36 22.5 38 29 10 31 17.7 ; 37 29 20 37 02 3 Index error = + ^ min. 40 sec. HESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Ad»'aiice. mm. 28 see, 35 /i. 1 mm. 05 sec 59.1 Determination of time, Septernher 12, 1S43 — a/titude.s of the. tun. OnsERVATIONS. FIR.OT SERIES. Double sun's SKCOND altitudes of the lower limb. SERIES. Double altitudes of the ?\.n's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Tim '. of chronometer. ^".g. min. sec. 48 50 40 49 03 45 49 14 20 4^ 23 00 49 32 40 //. min. sec 8 .59 39.5 9 00 14.0 00 43.2 01 0G.4 01 .34.5 Dcs. 19 49 •19 50 50 min. sec. 42 00 .50 00 57 50 08 00 17 35 h. min. six. 9 01 59.4 02 22.0 0? 44.6 OJ) 12.4 03 40.3 Index error = + 1 min. 40 poc. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. h. min, sec, 7 56 02 h. min. sec 1 ny 41.7 The daily lo«ing rate of t)ie chroncmetnr, obtained f/cna the observations ut this place, is 33.72 I: •■ i ' i U f m IT '.' >■ w f «•■ ' w h. I! [ 174] 404 ENCAMFMEKT OX BEAU RIVER, SOUTH OF THE O A ?— A MAIN ^TAi;"ON Detcrminalinn nf/onqiiude, .''S'jjf. 13. \S-l3—aUiiuie>: of .^dquiloe. OBSEKVATIONs, Double altitudes of a Aquilse. Ci,'. nun . sec. 88 10 15 87 52 50 87 32 30 87 07 40 86 48 00 Tunc iif chronomet'^r h. m'n. aer 11 41 40 4i 35 43 43 45 or 46 OS Index error -_ -f 1 min. 10 sec. Mean time. KKSULT Of CALCULATION. Advance. LmijitUiie Immersion of r ^IrUtia at //<«■ moon'f- bright limb. Observed iniic h. min. {«•• 13 30 \:i Emersion of r vlriclia. Obscrvnl time, A. mm. sec. 12 17 ■ 39 Longitude- h. ruin. sec 7 38 20.3 To this station, as determined by the emersion of r' Arietis, are referred, by chronometfic diff": ences, the longitudes from St. Vrain's fort to the Dfilles of the Columbia ^ 'mM^Jb iff. 20. S chronomelfic ditT".' 405 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT ON E£AF. RIVEU, SOUTH OP TITC GAP— A MAI\ STATION. I'dnrrxination of longitude, September 13, 18-13 — aHittide.^ of a Lyrvp., OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes ot a Lyrffi. Time of chronometer. Df^. min. yfc. //. min. sec. 80 49 00 13 31 49.5 80 06 20 33 51.5 79 12 00 36 27.0 Index error «= -+- 1 min. 40 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Longitude. Determination of longitude. September 14, 1S43 — altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of the Fun's lower limb. dee. min. sec 42 12 00 4! 48 30 41 18 05 41 04 00 40 48 25 1 BT SERIES. SECOND SERIES. he Time of chronometer. , Double altitudes of the 1 sun's lower limb. Time of chron" neter. ft. min. sfc- 5 16 18.5 17 24.7 18 50.3 19 28.0 20 12.4 ' Def;. min, sec. 40 24 15 '10 10 20 39 59 15 ; 39 48 10 I 39 37 30 1 /(. 7nin. sec. 5 21 21.3 21 59.7 22 29.2 23 00.4 2.) 30.4 Index error «- + 1 min. 39 .sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. I •I IJ ( 4 I if it W'^ [ i74] 406 BNt;AMFMEM' ON ROSEAUX, OK REEDjRIVER. Determination of longitude, September 15, 1843 — altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. yiHST BEItlES. 1 SECOND 8£EI£g. Double altitudc^< of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. 1 Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronomeUr D^. min. sec. 47 31 26 47 15 00 47 02 30 46 48 00 46 25 10 h. 4 5 min. 58 59 00 00 01 sec. .54.5 39.2 140 55.0 59.5 Deg. min. sec. 46 05 10 45 50 30 45 39 20 45 18 10 45 01 50 h. min. jec. 5 02 56.0 03 38.3 04 09.8 05 10.0 05 66.1) Index error = + 1 niin. 38 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. ^ h. min. sec. 3 58 00 /(. min. sec. I 04 21.8 Deg. min. sec, 112 15 04 Determinatiofi of latitude, Sept. 15, 1843 — meridian alt itndeqf a. ^quilx. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of a Aquilse. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec. 1.2 22 30 9 01 20 112 24 10 03 2i 112 26 40 05 01 112 28 40 08 45 112 27 40 10 01 112 28 30 11 07 112 27 20 13 26 112 26 10 14 52 112 24 40 16 08 l\'i 22 30 17 31 Index erroi' == + 1 min. 34 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Deg. 56 mm. 15 sec. 20 Latitude. Deg. 42 mm. 13 sec 26 3R. udes of tht sun. ^EIES. rime of chronometer, h. min. jse. 5 02 56.0 03 38.-3 04 09.3 05 10.0 05 66.0 Longitude. 'g. min. sec. 12 15 04 'tudeqfo.AquUx. nometer. sec. 20 21 01 45 01 07 26 52 08 31 Latitude. mm. 13 sec. 26 407 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT ON ROSEAUX, OR REED RIVER. Bitermination of latitude, September 15, 1S43 — altitudes of Polaris. * OiSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. fi. min. sec. 85 03 50 9 20 41 85 05 20 22 09 86 06 30 23 17 85 07 00 24 48 86 09 00 26 12 Index error =s -j- 1 min. 34 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 42 32 51 k. min. sec. 8 19 10 Deg. min. sec. 42 12 57 ENCAMPMENT ON PANNACK RIVER. Determination of longitude, September 17, 1843 — altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. FIBST SERIES. SECOMD 8EHIE8. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. 47 20 40 47 07 50 46 56 20 46 46 50 46 38 15 h. min. sec. 4 54 22.0 ! 54 5«.3 ! 55 32.5 1 55 58.2 i 56 22.0 Deg. min. sec. 46 23 00 46 12 20 45 59 10 45 48 00 h. min. 4 57 57 58 58 sec. 07.4 39.4 15.6 48.0 Index error 1 min. 35 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. A. min. see. 3 52 28 h. min. sec- 1 04 14.1 Deg. min. sec. 112 29 52 nhAt .-it'.' r I r It r 174] 408 ENCAMPMENT ON PANNACK RIVER. Determination of latitude, Sept. 17, 1843 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. % Double altitudes of Polaris'. Time of chronomctpr. Deg. ruin. fiec. 85 37 30 85 38 20 85 38 40 85 39 30 85 41 10 86 41 00 85 43 10 65 44 15 85 45 20 85 46 00 h. min. sec. 8 34 53 36 01 37 28 38 43 39 53 41 29 42 57 43 55 44 54 46 31 Index error sa -f> 1 min. 36 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean timo. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 42 50 30 h. min. sec. 7 36 37 Deg. min. sec. 42 44 25 Determination of latitude, Sept. 1 7, 1843 — meridian altitudesofa Aquilae. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of a Aquilffi. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. ti. min. sec. 12 50 8 49 41 17 50 51 41 ^ 21 20 64 18 22 10 55 40 23 50 57 10 25 20 9 00 08 26 00 02 33 25 15 04 06 25 10 05 34 24 00 07 13 21 65 08 59 Index error = + 1 min. 36 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Apparent time of transit. Latitude. Deg. min. see. 65 42 02 h. min. sec. 9 01 41 Deg. min. sec. 42 44 45 '-g. van. sec. r2 44 25 ludesofo-Aquilse. inometer. 409 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT ON PANNACK RIVER. Determination of longitude, September IS, 1813 — altitudes of a Lyrrs. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of a Lyrtp. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. see. h. min . sec. hb 51 30 1 31 44.0 a. in. 55 23 20 33 05.2 54 53 10 81 40.0 , 54 26 30 86 00.4 53 52 10 87 04. 53 32 50 89 SS.0 Index error •» -{- 1 min. 39 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. h min. sec. 31 15 Advance. h. min. sec 1 04 12.8 Longitude. Emersion of Jupiter's first satellite. Observed time. Mean time. Longitude. h. min. sec. 1 20 < 21 ■ _ IL^^ h. min. sec. 16 08 Deg. min. sec. 112 32 21 LHv^V u ,'j^, U h. , t 'U^U fl' 4 r+lf g. mm. sec. 44 45 i jrr !ii' [ 174 ] 410 AT FORT HALL. Determination of longitude, September 21, 1843 — altitudes of the sun. OBSERVAriONS. il' Index error « + I min. 37 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. riRST SERIES. SEC0.XD Double altitudes of the suii'h lower limb. SERIES. Double altitudes of the ■un'fl lower limb. Time of chronometer. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. 66 29 00 56 40 00 56 51 SO 67 01 35 67 07 IS A. min. sec. 9 34 22.0 34 65.5 85 31.4 36 01.2 36 21.4 Deg. min. tec. 57 16 00 57 24 00 57 31 10 57 39 10 67 47 10 A. mm, 4«. 9 36 47.2 37 n.o 37 34.1 37 59.4 38 24.3 Mean time. Advajioe. Loniintude. A. min. sec. 8 34 20 h. min. sec. 1 02 U.5 Deg. min. itc 112 i9 54 iludes of the sun. 411 AT FORT HALL. [ 174] Jitter minat ion of latitude, September 2\, 1343 — tneridian altitudes. of the sun. OBSEBVATIOMS. HERIES. Time uf chronometer — — h. mm. tec. 9 36 il.i 37 ll.O 37 34.3 37 59.4 38 24.3 Longitude. 12 mm. lu. &9 54 Double allitudoa of the sun'ii lower limb. Jitf^- min. lee Q4 45 00 94 45 55 ,94 47 20 94 47 50 94 48 20 94 49 30 94 50 00 94 61 00 94 51 20 94 52 00 94 53 40 94 53 30 94 63 40 94 54 20 94 54 00 94 54 10 94 53 55 94 53 55 94 54 00 94 53 40 94 53 00 94 52 25 94 51 45 94 51 20 94 50 50 94 49 40 94 48 50 94 47 50 Timo of chronouwter. h. min. tec. 43 26 44 04 41 63 45 87 46 4O8 46 61 47 S6 4R 03 48 40 .49 88 «1 86 »1 68 43 81 63 13 63 60 ,64 46 66 91 56 13 66 48 67 31 fiS 63 59 31 1 00 29 01 09 ,01 .68 M 46 03 36 04 13 Index error ^ -|- 1 min. 37 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. True altitude. Apparent time of transit. Latitude. Deg. min. see. 47 43 08 h. min. sec. 55 11 Deg. min. sec. 43 01 30 .tm '•^^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 [fl^ IIM ^^ 1^ 1^ I.I ^ «, III 22 2.0 1.8 L25 IIIIIU III 1.6 V] (^ /^ A d^l •lr. min. stc. h. min. nee. 101 ;J9 00 10 27 50.5 101 02 20 29 31.5 100 30 10 30 45 4 Index error =» -J- I min. 40 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. h. min. s^c. 9 24 5i Advance. A. miv. gpc. I 04 30.8 Longitude. ENCAMPMENT ON SNAKE RIVER, TWO MILES BELOW FISHING FAL»,.S. Bdermiiiaiionoflatitxide, October 1, 1843 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Deg. min. sec. 87 20 40 87 21 10 87 22 40 87 23 10 87 24 20 87 25 10 87 26 00 87 26 40 87 27 30 87 27 50 Time of chronometer. h. min. sec. 10 13 44 15 05 16 48 18 20 19 9f SI 06 S9 88 98 87 S4 48 86 48 ladex error = + 1 min. 30 sec RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. ^g. min. »ee. 43 42 00 h. min. *tc 9 15 28 Deg. min. see. 42 40 11 27 !■!'. -I i .;'! I I H K" I si' 1 1 1 1 I 174 ] 418 ENCAMPMENT ON SNAKE RIVER, TWO MILES BELOW FISHING FALLS, Determinatiun of longitude^ October 1, 1843 — aliiludes ofo. Lyrse. OBSERVATIONS. riBST 8F.BIE8. SECOKS SKniES. Double aUittiiles or f a Lyrte. Time of chronometer. Double altituflcs of Lyrac. Time of chronompter Def(. min. see. 99 21 30 98 56 00 98 36 2U 98 18 10 97 58 30 h. min. sec. 10 30 24.0 31 36.0 32 33.0 33 23.0 34 15.4 Deff. min. sec. 97 28 15 97 06 30 96 43 50 96 27 20 95 50 50 h. min. sec. 10 35 42.0 36 42.6 37 45.0 38 31.0 40 14.0 Index error = -|- 1 min. 30 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance, Longitude A. min. sec. 9 30 29 A. min. sec. 1 04 37.7 Deg. min, see. 114 35 12 :m '• I If. ENCAMPMENT ON SNAKE RIVER. Determination of latitude, October 2, 1843 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer, De^. min. sec. h. min. sec 87 56 10 10 25 48 87 57 40 ar 28 87 58 10 28 38 87 59 10 29 47 87 59 25 31 03 88 01 05 32 87 88 01 00 38 48 88 01 30 35 08 88 02 50 36 28 88 03 20 37 39 Thermometer 50". Index error = + 1 min. 30 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True aStitude. Deg. min, tee. 43 69 46 Mean time. h. min. tee. 9 26 36 Latitude. Deg. min. see, 42 63 40 ISHING FALLS fe* of Advance. h, min. fee. 1 05 15.3 r. Mean time. Longitude. h. min. sec. 9 45 23 Deg. U4 min. tee. 63 04 les of Polaris. ronometcr. :n. sec. 48 28 38 47 03 37 43 08 28 39 Latitude. Oeg. min. see. 42 53 40 ENCAMPMENT AT THE FORD WHERE THE ROAD CROSSES SNAKE RIVER, Determination of latitude^ October 3, 1843 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris, , Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. A. min. tee. 87 60 10 10 04 19 87 51 50 05 62 87 62 60 07 14 87 63 50 09 03 87 51 10 10 31 87 65 20 11 58 87 56 45 13 38 87 67 30 15 24 87 68 30 17 08 87 69 25 18 54 Index error r--= -|- 1 min. 30 sec. RESULT OF CALCUr.ATION. True altitude. Deg, min. tec. 43 67 15 Mean time. h. 9 mm. sec. 06 57 Latitude* Deg. 42 mm. 65 58 \\\i r •:■ [ 174 ] 420 ENCAMPMKNT AT THE FORD WIIIIKH THE ROAD CROSSES SNAKE RIVEK, Determination of lov^ilude^ October 3, lH43—uliilude. 11.0 40 24.5 SECOMn NKUIKH. Doublii nltiliuk's of ri hytm. Dta;. 92 9-i !>2 !)l 91 min. 5(i :JU or> 41 II sen. 45 30 10 00 50 Timo of chronomcltr h. 10 mm. 41 i'i 44 4.> 4G ■•■cc. A-i.Q 58.0 in.4 1/0 3!).0 Index error -^ + 1 min. 30 wc. Mean time. h. min. sec. 9 35 38.29 RESULT OP CALCULATION. Longitudo. Beg. 115 miu, 04 /ice. 4B v.? . Emersion of the first satellite of Jupiter. RESULT OF CALCULATION. ill Obeerved time. k. 11 mm. 30 see. 4% Advance. A. 1 mm. 05 sec. 30.3 LoD^tude. Deg. min. sec. 115 19 24 SNAKK HIVKK. e.y of a Lyru'.. mo of chronomcUr. /*. min. .sec. 10 41 M.O 4'i fiS.O 44 \{)A 4.1 I/O 46 ;w.o mirt. ficc. 04 46 421 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT ON niG WOOD RIVKK, OR RIVI^'JRE BOIHEE. Delerminolion of longitude, October 7, 1843 — nllilndes of the snn. OH.SKIIVATIONS. FIRST l>Ultll«. ■loosD ■miM. Double altitudes of the lower limb of the sun. . 1 'I'imo of chronoiuoter. • Double uUifuilen of the lower limli of the »un. Time of chronometer J)eg. min. sec. 36 22 55 36 10 00 36 01 05 35 48 20 35 39 26 h. min. sec. 4 40 24.0 47 03.6 47 31.0 48 08.7 48 37.8 Beg. min. see. ' 35 28 50 35 20 35 35 02 00 34 53 30 34 45 20 h. min. sec. 4 49 11. 49 36.8 50 35.3 51 00.5 61 25.0 Index error = 4-1 min. 30 sec. RE8ULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. see. 3 42 14 h. min. sec. 1 06 42.3 Deg. min. see. 115 64 46 '■ \: i, '1 ■I ^:':, M Determination of latitude, October 7, 1843 — altitudes of Polaris, {with the sextant.) OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. 1 Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. see. 88 21 40 8 38 54 88 22 30 40 49 88 24 20 42 49 88 25 25 44 14 88 26 40 45 15 Index error « -|. l min. 30 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min- sec. 44 11 49 h. min. sec. 7 35 48 Deg. min- sec 43 35 33 .. 11 U «'^ |i||i| III 'J I 1 1 . , ■ li 1' h 11 ■ll ■ ^!i^ Ilk MP^ I 174 ] 42'i ENCAMPMENT ON BIG WOOD RIVER, OR RIVIKRR BOI«EE. Determination qf latitude, October 7, 1843 — altitudes of Polaris, {with the circle.) OMSERVATION8. Circle remdinga. Time of chronometer. ITT 104 S81 589 mm. sec. 38 20 17 20 03 30 62 20 43 40 33 00 h. win. see 8 57 19 02 33 07 85 10 M 13 fil 19 26 RESULT or CALCULATION. ^ True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. De^. min. sec. 44 21 46 h. min. sec. 8 02 01 Deg. min. sec. 43 35 08 Mean latitude 43 deg. 35 min. 21 sec. SECOND ENCAMPMENT ON BIG WOOD RIVER. Determination of latitude, October 8, 1843 — altitudes of Polaris, {with the sextant.) OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. A. min. sec. 88 35 50 8 40 39 88 37 00 42 24 88 38 20 43 36 88 39 40 46 68 88 41 10 48 17 88 42 10 49 27 86 43 20 50 46 88 44 40 52 41 86 46 10 54 05 86 46 20 65 42 Index error = -|- 1 min. 30 sec. Thermometer 50". 1 :^; RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. ■ Mean time. Latitude. Di'g, min. sec. 44 20 29 A. min. sec. 7 40 34 Deg. min. 43 51 sec. 05 f Polaris, {with I 423 [ 174 ] SECOND ENCAMPMENT ON BIO WOOD RIVER. Altitudes of Polaris, {with the circle,) October 8, 1843. Circle readings. Deg. min. »ee. 177 49 60 366 52 20 533 55 40 712 06 20 170 17 30 Time of chronometw. h. min. see. 9 04 ?6 09 38 13 03 14 08 16 29 17 06 19 12 20 38 S3 46 36 44 RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. fl Mean time. Latitude. Deg. viin. tee. 44 29 63 k. min. tee. 8 08 26 Deg. min. tec 43 40 42 Mean latitude 43 deg. 40 min. 63 sec. 'J ' V' 'i ' I mtn. sec. 51 0& ^i i I Ml i! I ; ,K^ M ■!.#, • ' i r- ■ ■ ii. i 1' ' ?. li-i I B ' ' |l, ; 11 Ml ■■ 1 " ! ■ ■'■'W i '■''§' i i r% 'If ■t:, ■■,1 ' 1 ( : *j 4[-.. ; , ,1 '■^1 i*i li-' ^1^^^^'' >j mn 1- [ 174 ] 424 SECOND ENCAMPMENT ON BIG WOOD RIVER. Ptiterminaiioyi of longitude, October 8, 1843 — altitude of a, Lyrx, OBSERVATIONS. Double altitude of a Lyrae. Deg. tnin. see. Ill 14 60 Time of chronometer. h, min. sec. 9 34 06 Double altitude of (I Lyrte. Deg. min. sec. 95 54 1)0 interrupted by Time of chronometer A. mm, sec. 10 17 09.8 clouds. Thermometer 47*. 5. HI Determination of congitude — altitudes of a. %^nuilae. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of a Aqoils. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec. 80 31 00 10 24 05.0 80 ■ 12 20 25 04.4 79 52 20 26 09.0 Index error = + 1 min. 30 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. sec. 9 17 16 A. mtn. sec. 1 07 49.7 Deg. min. sec. 116 22 40 425 Time of chronometer ronometer. ')eg. min. sec- 116 22 40 C 174] AT FORT BOTSEE. jjileiminaiion of latitude ^ October 10, 1843 — altitudes of Polaris, {with the sextant.) OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Desr, min. sec. h. min. sec. 89 17 40 9 10 65 89 18 30 12 07 89 19 50 13 55 89 21 20 16 48 89 22 20 17 22 89 23 10 18 28 V 89 '>4 20 19 56 89 25 30 22 14 89 27 00 23 57 89 27 50 25 15 Index error = -^ 1 min. 30 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 44 41 09 h. min. sec. 8 09 44 Deg. min. sec 43 48 54 Altitudes of Polaris, {with the circle,) October 10, 1S43. OBSERVATIONS. Circle reading 'S. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. 9 min. 40 sec. 22 179 27 40 42 44 42 55 359 01 30 45 47 55 50 538 28 00 49 61 13 50 • 713 00 SO 56 58 05 02 177 39 20 59 62 J »— Thermometer 50°. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. sec 44 51 59 h. min. see. 8 41 26 Deg. min. see, 43 49 61 Mean latitude 43 deg. 49 min. 22 aec. PM: I-;, » * k ' 'i' fl m i; IV' !l ft! il C 174] 426 AT FORT BOISEE. Determination of longitude, October 10, 1843 — altitudes of a Lyrx. OBSERVATIONS. FIB8T 8EBIK8. BBCOHD SERIES. Double altitudes of a Lyra. Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of a Lyrs. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. 94 32 20 94 02 60 93 44 40 93 24 10 92 56 00 h. 10 min. 13 15 16 16 18 sec. 44.0 07.5 00.0 58.0 16.6 Deg. min. sec. 92 34 00 92 15 50 91 57 30 91 37 40 91 19 40 h. min. sec. 10 19 21.0 20 12.7 21 05.0 22 02.0 22 52.7 Index error = + 1 min. 30 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. set. 9 10 17 h. min. sec. 1 08 16.8 Deg. min, sec. 116 47 00 Emersion of Jupiter^ s first satellite. Jupiter about lO*' high; moon bright; night very clear; the planet a little yellow, with a mist of the horizon; observation good. Observed time. Mean time. Longitude. h. min. sec. I 23 12 a. m. h. min. sec 14 59.6 a. m. ENCAMPMENT ON SNAKE RIVER, BELOW BIRCH CREEK. Determination of longitude, October 12, 1S43 — emersion of the first satellite cf Jupiter. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Observed time. h. min. sec. 7 50 23 Mean time. h. min. 6 42 sec. 25.1 Longitude. Deg. min. sec. 117 10 10 427 [ 174 3 itudes of o Lyrm. D SEBIEB. Time of chronometer. Deg. min, sec. 116 47 00 ENCAMPMENT ON SNAKE raVER, BELOW BIRCH CREEK. Mermination of latitude, October 12, 1843 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. ^- min. see. h. min. see. 11 40 8 56 68 90 12 10 58 19 90 13 50 59 Oi> 90 14 00 9 01 05 90 15 15 02 09 90 16 30 03 41 90 17 20 05 28 90 17 60 06 64 90 19 20 08 36 90 20 50 10 31 Index error b= -f- 1 min. 28 see. RESTTLT OP CALCULATION. True altitude. Deg. min. sec. 45 07 42 Mean time. Deg. min. sec. 7 55 25 Latitude. Deg. min. sec, 44 17 36 ; y 'J I: n If-i tile yellow, with a mist of m CREEK. '.rsion of the first Deg. min, sec. 117 10 10 Determination of longitude, October 12, 1843 — altitudes of a Lt/rte, OBSERVATIONS. FIRST BEBIE8. SECoiri ) SERIES. Double altitudes of Lyrte. Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of a LyrtB. Time of chronometer. Scg. min. sec. 87 02 00 86 36 10 86 14 30 86 52 60 86 34 30 h. min. sec. 10 27 47.0 29 01.7 30 04.0 31 07.3 32 00.0 1 Deg. min. see, 85 17 30 84 59 25 84 42 00 84 23 40 84 06 20 h. min. sec. 10 32 49.6 33 41.0 34 34.0 35 26.0 36 16.0 Thermometer 40°. Index error =+1 min. 28 fsec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. sec. 9 24 22 h. min. sec. I 07 55.1 ■I V C 174 ] 428 ENCAMPMENT AT THE HEAD WATERS OF BURNT RIVER. Determination of latitude, October 14, 1843 — allitudei of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometor. Deg. min. sec. h. mm. sec. 91 07 10 9 13 21 91 08 45 15 22 •91 09 50 17 03 91 10 50 18 13 91 11 20 19 13 91 11 45 20 17 91 13 10 21 47 91 13 30 22 44 91 14 40 23 41 91 15 40 25 00 Index error = + 1 min. 28 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION > True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 45 35 37 h. min. sec. 8 11 58 Deg. min. ter. 44 37 34 Determination of long itudej October 14, 1843- OBSERVATIONS. -altitudes of a, ^quilx. FIRST SERIES. sEcoirs SERIES. Double altitudes of '^ime of chronometer. Double altitudes of Time of chronometer. a Aquilae. a Aquiiffi. Deg. min, see. h. min. sec. Deg. min. sec. /{. min. see. 88 18 10 9 29 03.0 87 00 15 9 33 55.4 87 59 20 30 12.0 86 42 10 35 00.5 87 46 15 31 06.0 86 27 10 35 55.3 87 32 00 31 56.3 86 12 00 36 52.0 87 15 50 32 56.0 85 57 30 37 46.0 Thermometer 44". Index error «= -{- 1 min. 28 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Longitude. Deg. min. see. 117 09 49 JRNT RIVER. Itu^es of Polaris. chronometer. mtn. sec. 13 21 15 22 17 03 18 13 19 13 20 17 21 47 22 44 23 41 26 00 Latitude. Deg. min. ter. 44 37 34 iiudes of a ^quilx. D SEHIES. Time of chronometer. h. min, sec. 9 33 55.4 35 00.5 35 55.2 36 32.0 37 46.0 Longitude. Deg. min. sec, 117 09 49 429 [ 174] ENCAMPMENT ON THE OLD BED 01' POWDER RIVER. \jj(lcrmination vf longilude, October 1.5, 1843 — immersion of the third ,salellilb of Jupiter. Observed time. h. min, sec, 7 07 04 Mean tinio. fi. mill. sec. 5 ,')8 54 Longitude. Emersion of the third satellite of Jupiter. KESULT OF CALCULATION. Observed time. Mean time. h, min. 10 3'J sec. 03 h. mtn. sec. y 30 50 Longitude. Bdermi nation of latitude, October 15, 184J — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Deg. 91 9i 91 91 91 91 91 91 91 91 mm. sec, 36 10 38 38 39 40 42 42 44- 44 45 00 50 00 10 10 40 00 10 30 Time of chronometer. h, 9 mm. 14 16 17 19 21 22 24 25 27 29 sec. 4f) 35 57 23 34 55 43 64 09 06 Index error c=: -)- 1 min. 2ri sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Latitude. Deg, min. aec 44 60 32 m >►■'■■■? *#>'.r ri-i' »l! u n Il' 1' [ 1T4 ] 430 ENCAMPMENT ON THE OLD BED OF POWDER RIVER. Determination of longiiude, October 15, 1843 — altitudes of a. Lyrse,. OBSERVATIONS. riRST SBRIES. SECOND sEnixs. Double altitudes of Timor if chronometer. Double altitudes of 1 Time of chroMomi»ti« a Lyrro. a Lyrm. Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec. Dcs. min. sec. h. min. «c. 92 13 10 10 01 S7.3 90 38 20 10 07 01.0 91 60 30 03 00.0 90 08 10 08 04.5 94 30 45 03 57.6 89 46 45 09 00. T 91 14 00 04 47.0 89 26 40 10 oo.aS 90 50 25 05 54.6 89 1 04 00 11 Of).i> i Index error c=^ 4~ ^ vam. 26 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Deg. 45 ENCAMPMENT ON POWDER RIVER. Determination of longitude, October 16, 1843 — altitudes oftht sun. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec. 54 08 00 10 29 45.5 54 17 40 30 28.0 64 28 30 31 14.0 54 37 40 31 52.5 54 43 30 32 20.4 Index error = -f- 1 min. 35 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION • c ■ ■■-' ■■ Mean time. Advance. Longitude. 1 Mee h. min. sec. 9 23 14 i h. min. sec. 1 07 54.0 Deg. min. see. 117 29 n 1 h. n 1 j^ •ER RIVER. Uitudes o/a Lyrx^ NB BEniXS, Time of chronnmeU h. 10 mm. »u. 1 07 01. 01 08 04.51 09 00.7] 10 OO.ft^ 11 ^^M liOngitudfc.' Deg. min. see. 117 24 21 431 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT ON POWDER RIVER. determination of latitude, October 16, 1843— altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Deg. min. sec. 91 09 20 91 10 40 91 11 00 91 11 60 91 13 10 Time of chroaometer. h. min. sec. 8 05 05 06 33 07 24 08 27 10 18 Index error = 4-1 min. 26 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Deg. 45 mm. 35 sec. 22 Mean time. A. 6 mtn. 59 see. 38 Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 44 59 29 R. Ititudes ofthi sun. 1 af chronometer. mtn. sec. 29 45.5 30 28.0 31 14.0 31 52.5 3'Z 20.4 Longitude. Deg. min. see. 117 29 M Mermination of longitude, October 16, 1843 — altitudes of a »/Sndromedse. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of a Androiaedte. Time of chrono Deg. min. sec. 97 36 50 98 06 40 98 42 00 h. 8 min. 16 18 20 Index error = + 1 min. 26 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. A. min. sec. 7 10 33 Advance. h. I mtn. sec. «7 55.3 sec. 58.0 23.0 04.0 L(ing'iude. .)' iViHr [ 174 ] 432 ENCAMPMENT IN THE GRAND UOND. Determination (f latitude, October 18, 1843 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSEUVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. De.!^. min 93 00 9a 01 9:) 03 08 02 93 03 sec. 25 30 20 30 30 Time of chronometer. k. min. nee 9 1« 56 31 66 23 14 24 33 26 46 Index error = + 1 min. 23 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. True altiludo DeiT. min, s(c. 4G 30 48 Mean time. A. min. sec. 8 16 20 Latitude. Deg. min. see. 45 2fi 47 Determination of longitude, October 18, 1843 — altitudes of a Lyra,. OBSEUVATIONS. s Double altitudes of a Lyrai. Time of chronometer. Deg. 98 98 97 min. 37 06 42 sec. 00 30 40 h. 9 1 min. 30 32 33 1 sec. 58.0 27.0 36.0 Index error == + 1 min. 28 see RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h, min. 8 25 sec. 36 h. min, see. 1 06 42.8 Deg. 117 min. see. 28 26 Dffr. min 67 20 66 53 66 30 65 50 04 59 Ocg. min. see. 45 26 47 tudes o/a Lyrm. ironometcr. in. sec. >0 58.0 J2 27.0 J3 36.0 433 [ 1T4 ] E.NCAMPMENT ON THE BLUE MOUNTAIN'S, EA8T OF THE SUMMIT. Dderniination of longitude, October If), IS43— altitudes o/ '■; I'-' :»■ »8 [ 174] 434 ENCAMPMENT ON THE BLTTE MOUNTAIN?, EAST OF TITE Sr^MMIT. 'Jetermination of latitude, October 19, 1843 — altitudes of Polarit. OIlhEHVATIONS. Double altitu' *" Polarid. Deff. mm. iee 94 13 20 94 12 20 94 13 40 94 13 50 94 15 30 94 15 00 94 15 30 94 15 30 94 15 50 94 15 50 Time of chronometer. h. min. nee 11 18 63 20 48 23 01 26 15 26 43 28 5» 30 24 32 00 33 20 34 59 I.M Index error = + 1 min. 25 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. De/r. min. sec. 47 07 07 Mean time. k. 10 mm. 21 sec. 18 Latitude. De^. min. sec. 45 38 07 my II;; !i ENCAMPMENT ON WALAHWALAH RIVER, AT THE FOOT OF THE MOUN- TAINS. Determine iioJi of latitude, October 23, 1843 — altitudefi of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS, Double I [titudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. see. 93 38 30 8 34 52 93 39 40 36 32 93 40 20 37 37 93 41 10 38 39 93 41 20 39 37 Index error = + 1 min. 22 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. D's- min. sec. 46 49 52 Latitude. Deg. min. tec. 45 53 35 435 wiw. sec. 38 07 OF THE MOUN- '.s of Polaris. [ 174] ENCAMPMENT ON WALAHWALAH RIVER, AT THE FOOT OF THE MOUN- TAINS, Determination of longitude, October .i3, 1S43 — a/titudus of a Lt/rx. OBSERVATIONS. Time of chronometer. nun. sec 43 3'J 44 v.a 45 47 48 09 49 il Index error •_ -f- 1 min- 22 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. k. rntn. sec. 7 40 08 Advance. h. min. 1 06 see. 06.3 Iiongitu'le. Jjn^. nun. IIS 00 nee. 39 AT FORT NEZ PERCE. Determination of latitude, Oct. 20, 184.'J — meridian allitvdes oj the sun. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Deg. min. sec. 62 20 20 62 21 50 62 23 30 62 24 45 62 2.5 10 63 25 45 63 26 40 62 27 25 63 28 30 63 28 36 63 29 10 63 29 15 63 28 55 63 28 30 63 28 30 63 28 25 <8 28 (H) 63 27 20 63 26 30 62 26 00 Time of chrononwter. h. min. s°c. 37 43 3S 3.5 30 33 40 4y 41 42 26 43 14 45 10 48 18 49 11 49 44 50 39 51 28 52 21 53 10 54 00 55 16 56 14 56 5!) 57 56 Index error = + 1 miu. 24 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Apparent time of transit. LatituJ.^. Deg. min. sec. 31 29 56 h. min. sec. 50 54 Des. min. sec 46 03 46 '/*•: \i% k ,1 ■ Hi'- )4 -, |- il [ 1*4 ] 436 I iN OON HALT ON THE LEFT BANK OK THE COU MniA. ,' D-terTninnlio)i()f latilndr, Oct. 28, 1843 — meridian altiluiles of the sun. onSEUVATIONS. Tcul )r allitiitlm of the tun's lowrr limb Time of rhrnnomptor. U(n. nnn. ." 1 inin< "4 hcc. UESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Ai'ijarent time of traiiHit. Latitude. ENCAMPME.N'J' 0.\ THE LEFT BANK OF COLUMBIA RIVER. Uiterniination nfldtitndc, October 30, 1S43 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. ♦••"J 94 94 94 94 94 94 94 94 94 mm. 08 08 09 10 11 11 12 12 13 13 stc. 00 50 ;iO 30 20 40 10 30 15 40 Time of chronometer. b. min. 8K. 9 14 46 16 Otf 17 J7 18 42 20 01 21 27 22 19 23 32 25 24 26 42 Index error =4-1 min. 23 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Dei. nun. j/m. 47 05 21 h. min. sec. 8 12 58 De^. min. sec. 45 50 05 437 [ !-♦ ] RN(!AMPMKNT ON THF. LEFT MWK OP COfJIMBI \ RIVER. Deter mindt inn of lona;itii(fr, Octoher HO, 1843 — altitude ; of a. L^irx. OaSKKVATIONH. riR«T HKItlCH Double ultituiicR of a liyrai. Dtf^. tniH. ficc. 83 31 10 83 OS 60 8*2 46 00 82 25 10 8-2 05 30 //. min, *ec. U 29 3:i.(» 30 42.3 31 48.0 33 63.0 33 51.0 Dfir. mil}, sec. 81 47 50 8 1 30 20 81 12 30 80 51 10 80 36 50 //. min- tec. 9 31 43 3.^ 37 36 3 37 2 5 38 1 8 Index error » -\- I min. 23 a«c. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. A. min. iec. 8 20 29 Advance. Longitude. A. viin. iec. 1 07 39. 1 Deg. min. sec. 119 22 18 i ■► 1 SECOND ENCAMPMENT ON COLUMBIA RIVER. Determination of latitude, October 31, 1843 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chroiioiacter. Deg. min. sec. h. min. see. 94 09 10 9 40 54 94 10 10 48 59 94 10 40 44 00 94 11 30 45 48 94 U 40 47 02 Index error =- 4- I min. 22 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. De^. min. sec. 47 05 06 A. min. sec. 8 35 32 Deif. min. sec. 45 44 23 ■- ■ ■ -■■■■■' •-■••• m ^4^ ] m .': I «i I i :i. if 113 ill ^ m] iffi <4H| M m h i I V '■ ■' m*- [ 171 ] 438 SECOND ENCAMPMENT ON COLUMBIA RIVER. Dttcrminatioii of longitude, October 31, 1843 — altitude of a. Lyrse. OBSERVATION. Double altitude of a Lyras. Time of chronemeter. Deg. min, sec 80 07 40 h. min. sec. 9 36 34 Index error = + ^ min- 22 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. sec. 8 27 57 h. min, sec. 1 08 37.3 Deg. min. s«c. 119 45 09 MISSIONARY STATION AT THE DALLES OF THE COLUMBIA. Determination of longitude, November 5, 1843 — altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. — ~ — — - — - FIRST SKHIES. 8EC0HD SERIES. Double altitudes of the Time of chronometer. Double altitudeB of the Time ot chronometCT. sun's lower limb. sun's lower limb. Deg, min. sec. h, min, sec- Deg, min, sec. h. min, su. 30 13 40 9 44 .52.0 30 56 50 9 47 41.3 30 25 10 45 36.8 31 04 20 48 10.6 30 33 20 46 11.0 31 13 20 48 45.0 30 42 50 46 45.0 31 19 45 49 13.5 30 49 30 47 11.0 31 28 00 49 45.7 Index error = -j- 1 min. 23 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h, min, sec, 8 37 11 h. »un, sec, 1 10 14.1 3R. ide ofaLyrsp. nerneter. sec. 34 Longitude. nun. sf^. 9 45 09 JLUMBIA. des of the sun. UE8. ime of chronometer. h. min. sec. 9 47 41.3 46 10.6 48 46.0 49 13.5 49 45.7 433 [ 174 3 STATION ON THE HILLS IN THE REAR OF THE MISSION. Determination of longitude j November 5, 1843 — altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec. 49 25 40 11 17 20.5 49 42 30 19 14.0 49 47 30 19 45.5 49 52 50 20 20.0 49 58 00 20 55.0 Index error = 4- 1 min. 22 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. see. 10 09 43 h. min. sec. 1 10 07.4 Deg. min. see, 120 53 51 !!'■ f»iji' I; ii lii'.'mA: >' ■ I ngitude. ■J: it; h I 174 ] 440 STATION ON THE HILLS IN THE REAR OF THE MISSION. ,Dstermination of lalilude, November 5, 1843 — mericiian (tltitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. • Deg. min. sec. A. min. see. 56 44 00 37 38 56 44 35 38 25 56 46 49 39 29 r.6 49 25 41 22 56 51 05 42 59 56 51 50 44 07 56 53 15 * 45 13 56 53 45 30* 45 54 56 55 47 40 56 56 UO 48 49 56 56 20 51 04 56 56 25 52 29 56 56 35 53 59 56 56 15 54 50 56 55 50 67 07 56 55 40 57 49 56 55 20 58 20 56 54 30 59 19 56 54 10 1 00 09 56 53 40 00 49 Index error = -|- 1 min. 22 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True central altitude. Apparent time of transit. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 28 43 S3 h. min. tec. 53 49 Deg. min. sec. 46 35 21 SIGN. llitudes of the neter. ec. m 25 29 22 59 07 13 54 40 49 04 29 59 50 07 49 20 19 09 49 4H • [ 174 ] MISSIONARY STATION AT THE DALLES OF THE COLUMBIA. Udermination of latitude, November 5, ISAZ —altitudes of Polar ii. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chroaometer. De^. min. sec. h. min. sec. 93 S3 00 9 26 31 93 54 20 28 08 93 54 15 29 31 93 54 20 30 30 93 55 20 31 43 93 55 20 32 37 93 56 10 33 50 93 56 25 34 51 93 57 20 r 35 45 93 57 30 36 5a Index error = 4-1 miii. 22 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altituds. dtg. min. sec. 46 57 29 Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 45 35 38 f. 1 ;l '"r.li: I ':^;f. f.-\ \}:': 1: :^ * .If P„J ™^> Vt»i: ^; ! latitude. mm. sec. 35 21 Emersion of Jupiter^s second satellite. Observed time. Mean time. Longitude. A. min. sec. 10 43 32 h. min. sec. 9 33 40 Deg. min. sec. 120 55 00 ;!; 61'. ! t 'll'i m ' t? [ 174 ] 442 MISSIONARY STATION AT THE DALLES OF THE COLUMBIA. Determination of longitude, November 5, 1S43 — altitudes of a Lyra, OBSEBVATIONS. FIRST < SERIES. 8XC0}(O S£BIES. Double altitudes of Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of 1 Time of chronomeK a Lyrte. a Lyre. Deg. min. see. k. Tiiin. sec. Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec. 72 38 10 9 40 35.5 71 10 50 9 45 OiM 72 19 00 41 32.4 70 50 20 46 05.« 72 01 30 42 27.0 70 22 45 47 29,e 71 43 50 43 21.0 70 00 40 48 36.S 71 27 40 44 10.0 69 45 40 49 22.; Index error es -{- 1 min. 22 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. sec. 8 34 59 h. min. se£. I 09 53.3 ^ fet i K. .] E COLUMBIA. ItUudes of o Lyn JJID SERIES. of Time of chronometi h. mm. stt 9 45 02.« 46 05.( 47 29.( 48 36.. 49 22. Longitude. 443 [ 174 J jNCAMPMENT ON THE RIGHT BANK OF THE COLUMBIA, 15 MILES BELOW THE CASCADES. Determination of longitude, November 11, 1843 — altitudes of Jupiter. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Jupiter. Deg. nun. sec. 32 42 50 32 68 40 31 30 40 Time of chronometer. h. min. sec. 10 13 09.6 15 29.5 1 18 01.0 Index error = -f- 2 min. 6 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. h, min. sec 9 04 41 Advance. Longitude. Emersion of Jupiter^ s first satellite. Observed time. Mean time. Longitude. h. min. sec. 9 45 19 h. min. sec. 8 34 50.2 Deg. min. 122 06 see. 15 Determination of latitude, November 11, 184S — altitudes of Polaris, OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Deg. min. sec. 94 07 50 94 08 10 94 09 10 Time of chronometer. h. min. see. 10 38 08 41 13 42 43 Index enor = + 2 min. 6 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Deg. min. see. 47 04 00 Mean time. Latitude. k. 9 mm. 30 sec. 16 Deg. min. sec. 45 33 09 i M.-., f ^ ■ 4 > . !■ :f;:'l ilfa li ! ' ''I if ■i i'*" ■« . hi).. '(> ■{■ l.^'^. I 174 ] 444 BNCAMPMENT ON THE RIGHT BANK OF THE COLUMBIA, 15 MILES DEM THE CASCADES. Determination of longitude. Novernber 12, 1S43 — altitudes of the v/} OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Jeff. min- sec. 33 is 40 33 46 20 34 00 30 34 11 10 34 ^4 00 Time of chronometer. fl. min. sec. 10 13 08.0 14 28.0 15 32.5 16 84.0 17 18.0 Index error = -f- 2 rain. 6 aec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. K^ean time. A. 9 mtn. sec. 05 10 Advance. h. 1 mm. 10 sec. 12.3 Longitude. I/(t'. min. i 36 53 36 00 36 or. ;6 1) % 17 9 I ' • ji. Determination of latitude, Nov. 12, 1843 — meridian altitudes ofthesu\ OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. SfC. 62 58 00 51 40 62 57 40 52 53 62 58 10 63 56 62 56 50 58 33 62 ^ £4 00 1 02 51 62 53 .-iO 03 30 52 53 30 04 11 * 62 52 25 06 00 Index error = -|- 2 min. 6 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True central altitude. Apparent time of transit. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 26 44 24 A, min. sec. 54 25 Deg. min. sec- 45 .33 19 Dor. 89 eg 88 88 BIA, 15 MILES BELi altitudes of the viA of chronometer. nun. sec. 13 08.0 14 28.0 15 32.5 16 24.0 17 18.0 Longitude. m aUitudes of the sui of chronometer. nun. sec. 51 40 52 53 53 56 58 33 02 51 03 30 04 11 05 00 Latitude. Des- "»"»• ^"^■ 45 33 19 445 [ 174 1 MISSIONARV STATION AT THE DALLES OF THE COLUMIJIA. fiflermination of time, November 20, 1843 — altitudes of the sun. On>^KllVATI0N,S. FJR8T «liRl£8. b'leBltitmles of the faV lower limb. i/'i'. min. sec. 35 53 20 (10 115 11 JO it 20 2.5 J5 10 Time of chronometer. h. min. 10 35 36 .'iC 37 37 sec. 5-3.0 26.5 54.7 2.).e 56.2 SEroNO SEHIRS. DouMo altitudes ol' the Ti me of chronometer. sun's lower limb. I)e^. min. .VfC. fi. min. stc. 30 22 20 10 .'is 2,V4 36 28 10 38 .54.7 30 '13 10 39 22.3 36 38 . 10 39 49.4 36 43 40 40 20.0 Index error = + 2 min. sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. it. min. sec. 9 36 11 h. min. sec. I 01 57.9 ^mmination of time, November 20, 1S43 — altitudes ofo.AquH«. OBSERVATIONS. Time of chronometer. A. 6 mm. 46 48 49 50 50 sec. 41.6 OS.O 02.5 03.4 54.0 Index error = -j- 2 min. 6 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION Mean time. h. min. sec. 5 47 24 Advance. k. min. sec. 1 01 34.3 Emersion of Jupiter's third satellite. Observed time. 1. m.'n. see. C 27 48 ' Mean time. h. min. sec. 5 26 13 Mj:i m% . i;t itv, , i. i ! I m air iJ;|j^ 11 fiW £ 174 ] 446 MISHIOiVARV STATION AT THE DALLES OF THE COLUMBIA.* Ektermination of latitude, Nov. 21, 1313 — meridiun aliiludei„j i.'.cnn OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of the aun'a lower limb. Time of cluonometcr. Deg. min. sec. h. min. fee. 48 25 40 46 56 48 26 10 47 56 48 26 30 48 45 48 25 50 50 13 48 25 40 60 54 48 25 25 51 42 48 25 05 52 30 48 24 40 53 32 Index error s= + 2 min. 6 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. H"- True central altitude. Apparent time of transit. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 24 29 23 k. min. sec. 47 r,8 Deg, min. sec. 45 35 £5 Determination of time, November 24, lSi3-:-aititudes of a Lyrx. OBSERVATIONS. * Double altitudes of a Lyrs. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. 81 32 30 81 07 30 k. miri. sec 7 48 23,0 49 40.5 ^ Index error = -|- 2 min. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. A. min. sec. 6 49 41 h. min. sec. 59 20.7 The daily losing rate of the chronometer, obtained from the observations :»t this place, is 33'j 1 COLUMBIA.* aUiludtiuJ ilicsut f cluoiiometer. thin. fee. 46 56 47 .^6 48 45 50 13 50 54 51 4i 52 30 53 33 dtitudes of a Lyrx. B of chronometer. min. sec. 48 23.0 49 40.5 piin- sec. ) 59 20.- 44T C 174] ENCAMPMENT ON A LARGE BRANCH OF FALL RIVER, (RIVIERE AIX CHUTES.) hi(rmination of longitude, November 26, 1843 — altitudes of o Lyrx, OBSEKVATIONS. riRST SEniKS. flicoNu seniEs. Double altitudes of 1 Lyrm. Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of a Lyrse. Timi' of chronometer. I){j, min. sec. 83 15 00 81 33 10 81 07 40 /*. min. sec. 7 35 35.7 37 39 5 38 53.5 1 n Deg. mm. sec. • 80 49 00 1 80 33 00 80 17 20 /t. min. ifc. 7 39 47.4 40 33. £ 41 21.2 ervalions at this place, u 33'l Index error = -|- 2 min. 4 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION-. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. sec. 6 41 53 h. min. sec. 57 06.0 • Merminution of latitude, November 26, 1843- OBSERVATIONS. ~altilude.7f. Time of chronouuit'i. A. min. .w. s 16 Ofi.d 16 59.0 17 50.(1 18 46.0 19 33.7 449 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT AT THE SOUTH EM> OF TAIH PRAIRIE. Determinatioti of longitude. Novemoer 27, ISI'3 — immersion of Jupiter's third .tateliite. Observed time. Mean time. Longitude, h. min. sec. h. min. tec. 6 53 12 fi 56 20 Emersion of Jupiter's first satellite. Observed time. Mean time. Longitude. A. min. sec. 7 56 15 h. mill. sec. 6 59 34.5 Deir. tnin, sec. 121 02 43 I I tildes of Polaris. ironometer. in. sec. 4 11 6 47 8 09 9 13 38 1 39 2 58 4 28 5 39 6 51 ENCAMPMENT ON THE MAIN BRANCH OF FALL RIVER Determination of latitude, November 30, 1843 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. 91 56 CO • 91 57 15 91 §8 20 , /j. min. sec. 7 47 37 49 23 51 09 Index error = •{• 2 rain. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 45 58 48 h. min. sec. 6 53 35 Deg. min. see. 44 35 23 fi'"',' m. 4 : |l >: . ■!''« ir'' '*rt i ■' n J, min. see. |45 06 45 2» I lid 1 i ■i I 174 ] 450 ENCAMI'MENT ON THE MAIN DKA.NCH'OF FALL RIVER. Determination of tonsil uilc, Nuvcinber 30, 1843 — altilnJes >>/ CujuKn OHSEIIVATIONS. DouMe iiUitudeN of ( 'apella. Time of clironometei. Deg. min. see. fl» 30 3(t C9 56 15 h. ruin. nee. 7 54 38.0 56 50.5 Indox error _ ^ S min. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. h, min. see. fi 59 21 h. min. stc. 55 48.3 1 Longitude. Emersion of Jujjifer's second satellite. Observed time Longitude. Defi;. min. tec. 121 10 36 ENCAMPMENT ON FALL RIVER, (I ^rtON FALLS.) Determination o/longitui/e, December 5, 184.3 — altitudes of a L^rg,\ OnSEHVATIONS. FIRST • • SECOND SERIXS. omete "H Deters Double altitudes of c Lyrn\ Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of n Lyr(B. Ti-Tie of chron Beg. 72 72 72 72 71 min. stc. 65 40 38 10 20 30 02 20 46 10 h. min. sec. 7 21 13.5 22 08.2 23 00.5 23 53.7 24 40.G : Deg, min. sec. 71 37 15 71 03 45 70 45 10 70 29 00 70 07 30 h, miu. 7 25 26 87 28 29 set 50.« 33.J 37.« Index error = -+- I min. 32 sec. KESULT OF CALCULATION. I Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. sec. 6 32 IC h. min. sec. 53 03.4 a.L RIVEK. 'tiliidei of CufjtUn. chronometer. rjHfl. rfr. 54 28.0 !>b 50.5 lite. Longitude. Deg. min. i(c. 121 10 36 FALLS.) dtitudcs of o Lyrx, . 1 OND SKBIES. of TimeofchronomeVi h. miu. M 7 25 37.( 26 50. 27 43. 28 33. 29 37. ^ Longitude 461 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT ON FALL RIVEK, (UNION FALLS.) Determination c/ /atifuUe, December 5, 1843 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATION.s. Double altitude* of Polarii. Time of chronometer. Dtir. min. SfC 90 34 40 00 34 40 90 36 10 SO 30 10 90 37 00 90 36 50 90 37 15 90 38 Oo 90 38 40 00 38 20 /». min. see. 7 00 09 10 59 11 50 13 00 14 00 IS 00 15 49 16 42 17 45 18 42 Index error — -|- 1 min. 33 nee. RESULT OP CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Dfg. min. sec. 45 IC 39 h. min. sec. C 20 42 Deg, min, sec, 43 55 20 8EC0ND ENCAMPMENT ON FALL RIVER. Determination o/ longitude, December G, 1843 — altitudes qf a Lyrsc. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of a Lyrje. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. 64 14 58 38 53 06 sec. 10 15 30 h. min. sec. 8 13 42.4 15 33.0 17 14.3 Index error == -|- 1 min. 30 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. sec. 7 22 43 h. min. sec. 52 46.9 " ,l. • I ; «' ^■: i 1 .'I • I" I 1; t^ ;;(■•; INI C 174 ] 452 SECOND ENCAMPMSNT ON PALL RIVER. Determination of latitude, December 6, 1843 — altitudes oj Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Doable altitudes of T'olaris. Time of chr6nometer. Des- mill. sec. k. min. sec. 90 29 00 8 20 51 90 29 15 22 07 9(1 29 15 24 00 90 29 10 36 00 90 29 05 28 00 Index error = -(- 1 tnitx. 30 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. mill. sec. 45 14 22 /i. mill. sec. 7 31 25 Deg. min. sec 43 44 15 THIRD ENCAMPMENT ON FALL RIVER. Determination of longitude, Dec. 8, 1843 — immersion ofrj Geminorum, Observed time. Longitude. h. min. sec. 1 23 08 a. tn. Deg. min. sec. 131 33 50 Determination of longitude, December 8, 1843 — altitudes of Rigel OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Rig.'l. Time of chronomster Deg. min. sec h min. sec. 70 14 30 2 12 32.0 a. m. 69 56 30 14 30.0 69 43 00 16 00.0 69 27 40 17 36.5 69 10 00 19 36.6 Index error = -+- 1 min. -32 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. h. min, see. 1 23 25 Advance. h. min. aee. 62 37.7 Longitude. 463 C 174 3 R. udes qj Polaris. THIRD ENCAMPMENT ON t ALL RIVER. determination of latitude, December 8, 1S43 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. hrduometer Double altitudes of Polaris. m. sec. 51 !2 07 54 00 t6 00 J8 00 Deg. min, 8V 49 Time of chronometer. h. 1 Latitude. 87 42 2.') 56 20 87 41 00 57 18 87 40 45 58 13 Deg. min. sec- 43 44 IS Index error =; + 1 min. 32 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. :r. onofv Getninoruvi nsiitudc. mtn. sec. 33 50 True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 43 52 01 h. min. see. t 00 38 Deg. min. sec. 43 30 36 Ititudes ofRigel. CAMP IN A PINE FOREST. determination of latitude, December 8, 1843 — altitudes of Polari's. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. chronometer mm. sec. 12 32,0 a. m 14 30.0 16 00.0 17 36.5 19 36.6 Deg. min. sec. 89 10 00 89 11 00 89 11 45 89 12 30 89 12 30 89 13 10 89 13 15 89 13 40 89 13 50 89 14 30 Lon^tude. Index en. - =^ -4- 1 min. 32 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg, min. sec. 44 36 06 h. min. sec. 5^ 53 57 Deg. min. se$, 43 17 49 1^ -1 V W- ■.■■: U. cm ji,; I, M «-: 'M 11 1 .1 H. m t:; m. iji I [174] 454 CAMP IN A PINE FOREST. Di tirmiaation of longitude^ December 8, 1843 — altitudes of a. Lyra>. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of a LyroB. Time of chronometer. Dig. min. see. h. min. sec. 77 55 10 6 53 09.0 77 31 50 54 17.0 77 14 30 55 04.5 76 55 00 56 03.4 76 38 15 56 52.5 Index error ^ -^ 1 min. 32 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude //. jnin. sec. 6 02 19 h. min. sec. 52 46.3 Determination of longitude, December S, 1843 — altitudes of Capella. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Capella. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec. 62 23 10 7 01 00.0 62 44 10 02 12.7 63 00 10 03 06.0 63 20 10 04 10.6 64 01 20 06 27.5 Index error — + 1 min. 32 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. A. min. sec. 6 10 39 /i. min. sec. 52 44.5 udes o/q, Lyrx. Tonometer. tudes of Capella. ironometer. 455 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT AT TLAMATH LAKE. Jitter friina Hon of latitude, December 10, 184.3 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. 88 56 88 56 88 55 sec. 10 10 40 A. min. sec. 8 25 07 26 27 27 17 Index error = -+- 1 min. 30 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. tec. 44 27 46 h. min. sec. 7 35 27 Deg. min. 42 56 sec. 51 \lktermi7iation of Jongitude, December 10, 1843 — altitudes of Capella. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Capella. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. 92 56 30 9S 17 30 93 38 40 A. 7nin. sec. 3 .30 05.5 31 U.O 32 16.0 Index error =4-1 min. 30 sec RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. h. min. sec. 7 39 52 Advance. Longitude. h. min. sec. 51 18.5 m r.f : :V: '■' VA\ Sit { Ml' u [ 174 ] 456 ENCAMPMENT AT TLAMATH LAKE. Deiennination of latitude, December 11, 1843 — meridian altitudes oj the sun. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Beg. nun. sec. h. min. 3CC. 47 24 30 32 11 47 25 15 33 09 47 27 15 34 30 47 28 40 36 52 47 29 25 38 00 47 30 10 40 29 47 30 35 41 24 47 30 35 43 05 47 31 15 43 57 47 31 40 44 54 47 31 15 46 11 47 31 05 46 56 47 30 20 47 49 47 29 40 48 55 47 29 20 49 56 47 28 10 52 08 47 27 00 53 20 47 25 45 64 36 Index error = + 1 min. 32 sec RESULT OF CALCULATION. True central altitude. Apparent time of transit. Latitude. Dtg. min. sec. 24 00 33 h. min. sec. 44 11 Deg. min. sec. 42 68 23 Deg. 44 6G 32 66 15 an altitudes of iht ronomcter. n. sec. I 11 3 09 I 30 S 52 B 00 J 29 1 24 3 05 3 57 i 54 6 11 6 56 7 49 B 55 9 56 2 08 3 20 4 36 457 [ 174] ENCAMPMENT AT TLAMATH LAKE. Udermination of latitude, December 11, 1S43 — ait it u des o/ Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polarii?. Be^. min. sec. 88 41 30 8S 41 20 t,'8 41 30 88 41 35 88 42 10 Time of chronometer. h. min. sec. 7 00 45 02 00 08 59 04 22 06 42 Index error s= + 1 min. 32 sec. RESULT OP calculate; True altitude. Deg. min. sec. 44 20 35 Mean time. k. min. sec, 6 12 53 Latitude. Beg. min. sec. 42 56 47 Determination of longitude, December 11, 1843 — altitudes of a Lyrse. )BSERVATIONS. FIH9T 3EH1E«. SKCOND SERIES. Double altitudes of « Lyrffi. Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of a Lyree. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec 67 34 00 67 06 10 66 47 40 66 32 40 66 15 50 h. min. sec. 7 09 05.5 10 25.7 11 22.0 12 07.5 12 .56.5 Ikg. min. sec. 65 38 45 65 35 00 65 19 20 65 03 20 64 42 20 k, min. sec. 7 13 47.3 14 56.6 15 44.8 16 34.5 17 35.8 Index error = + 1 min. 32 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. A. min. see. 6 22 44 h, min. sec. 50 43.5 i i- ^ 1, i i I 1 .i '♦ n £ m] 458 ENCAMPMENT ON A TRIBUTARY TO THE LAKE AND HEAD WATER OF THE TLAMATH RIVER. Determination of longitude, December 13, 1843 — altiiudes of a. Lyrm. OBSERVATIONS. FIRST SERIKS. SECOND SERIES. Double altitudes of a LyrsB. Time of chronometer. % Double altitudes of a Lyrae. Time of chronometer. Xkg-. ndn. sec. 63 40 10 63 13 10 62 50 40 62 34 40 ' 62 11 45 h. min. sec. 1 10 36.5 11 56.5 13 04.0 13 54.0 15 03.7 Deg. min. see. 61 57 00 61 37 50 61 19 35 61 01 40 60 44 00 h. mill, sec 7 \r-> 49.8 16 44.4 17 40.5 18 36.0 19 30.0 Index error -^ + ^ °>>n- 32 ^c- RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. h. 6 mm. 26 sec 37 Advance. h. mm. 48 sec. 41.0 Longitude. Emersion of Jupiter^ s first satellite. Observed time. Mean time. Longitude. h. min. sec. 6 07 Ot h. min. sec. 5 18 21.6 Deg. min. ace. 121 20 42 SAD WATER OP tides ofo. Lyr^. 3ERIE8. Time of chrononieter. 459 C 174] UCAMPMENT ON A TRIBUTARY TO THE LAKE AND HEAD WATER OF THE ' TLAMATH FdVER Determination of latitude, December 13, 1643 — altitudts of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. 1 h. min. sec. 8» 38 20 7 24 09 88 39 30 25 41 88 39 10 26 53 88 39 25 28 18 . 88 40 20 ♦ 29 34 88 40 50 30 37 88 40 20 31 46 88 40 30 32 45 88 41 10 33 57 88 40 35 34 54 Index error =: -(- I min. 32 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 44 19 46 h. min. sec. 6 41 10 Deg. min. sec. 42 51 26 ENCAMPMENT ON SUMMER LAKE. determination of latitude, December 16, 1843 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. 1 1 sec. h. min. sec 88 46 30 ! 6 48 50 88 46 20 i 60 28 88 46 40 i ftl 63 88 47 00 1 62 69 Index error == ■+- 1 min. 35 sec. RESULT OK CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Dtg. min. sec. 44 23 07 h. min. sec. 6 06 48 Deg. min. sec. 42 57 22 5 1 u ■'■)' I, ,t 3V ', m 1 li IN, ' I/,' ( ¥ ^. It; ,-• f-it-^f, i'i .f!r li;li; pi. [ 174 ] 460 ENCAMPMENT ON SUMMER LAKE. Determination of longitude, December 16, 1843 — altitudes of o. Lyrx. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of a Lyra;. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. 67 50 20 C7 08 50 66 27 35 «— h. min. 6 42 44 46 sec. 08.5 11.0 11.6 Index error » -|- 1 min. 35 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Determination of longitude, December 16, 1843 — altitude.^ of Capelk. \ OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Capella. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. 73 29 46 73 53 50 74 16 20 h. 6 7 min. sec. 58 46.0 00 04.6 01 17.7 Index error = + 1 min. 35 sec. RESULT OK CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. titudes of a Lyr^. itudes of Capella. ihronometer. n. sec. 8 46.0 04.6 1 17.7 46t [ 174 ] SECOND ENCAMPMENT ON SUMMER LAKE. Dpj.T?t>inafion of long'fh/r/c, Deo'.mher 18, 184.3 — aftitndes of Cupeiln. 0B-*EUVAT10NS. Double altitudes of Capella. Time of ckronometer. Deg. ml: . sec h. min- sec. 9l 10 .■SO 7 54 24.0 94 41 10 56 07.0 95 iO 00 fi"; 24.0 S5 31 00 58 27.5 95 51 10 59 27.0 Index error ^ -\- 1 min. 37 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. sec. 7 14 30 h. min. sec 42 39.9 Ikhrmination of longitude^ December 18, 1843 — altitudes of a Cygvi. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of a Cygni. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec. 79 03 50 8 19 24.0 78 40 30 20 37.2 T8 21 45 21 35.4 78 04 25 22 29.2 77 45 15 23 27.0 Index error « 4- 1 min. 37 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. sec. 7 38 57 h. min. sec 42 33.1 I»! ¥M I' !■ '' i »'f [ 174 ] 462 SECOND ENCAMPMENT ON SUMMER LAKE. Determination of latitude, December 18, 1843 — uUitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. mill. >iec. 88 27 no 88 27 40 88 27 35 M8 27 40 88 87 30 88 27 10 88 27 50 88 27 15 88 27 25 88 27 40 L mill. ntc. 8 02 20 03 50 05 00 06 15 07 38 08 56 10 11 11 17 12 25 13 43 Index error = -f- 1 min. 37 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. ' Latitude. Beg. min. sec, 44 13 34 h. min. sec. 7 25 32 Deg. min. sec. 42 42 37 ENCAMPMENT ON CHRISTMAS LAKE. Determination of latitude, December 24, 1843 — altitudes of Polar is,\ OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris!. Time of chronometer. I^^S- min. sec. . h. min. sec. 87 46 00 6 48 02 87 46 20 49 39 87 46 30 50 44 87 46 40 52 04 87 47 00 58 18 87 47 15 54 12 87 47 20 . 55 32 87 47 40 56 38 87 47 20 57 43 87 47 45 58 45 Index error i-> -|- 1 min. 37 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. w ' True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. s(c, 43 63 17 h. min. sec- 6 17 12 Deg. min. sec. 42 23 a* 463 LAKE. Uitud es of Polaris. of chronometer. min. btC. 02 20 03 50 05 00 06 15 07 38 08 56 10 11 11 17 12 25 13 43 Latitude. Leg. min. sec. 42 42 37 \KE. attitudes of Polaris. « of chronometer. min. see. 48 02 49 39 50 44 52 04 53 18 54 12 55 32 56 38 57 43 58 45 [ 174] ENCAMPMEiNT ON CHRIWTMAS LAKE. Oetermination of iotigilucte, December 24, 1843 — ultitucies of a Lyrse^ OBSEBVATIONS. riHST lERISB. 1 SECOND SIRIER. Double altitudes of a Lyrae. Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of ■ Lyrsp. Time of chronometer. Dee,, min, sec. 66 42 30 5C 18 16 55 56 20 55 37 00 55 17 00 h. min. sec. 6 34 50.5 36 03.3 37 08.3 38 09.5 39 10.0 Deg. min. sec. 64 43 30 54 24 00 54 05 15 53 43 25 53 26 30 fi. min. sec. 6 40 54.0 41 54.4 42 52.4 44 00.0 44 54.0 Index error = -f- 1 min. 37 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. sec. C 03 44 //. min. see. 36 15.7 ENCAMPMENT IN DESERT VALLEY, AMONG BLACK ROCKY HILLS. Determination of longitude, December 26, 1843 — altitude of a Lyrse. OBSERVATION. Double altitude of a Lyrte. Deg. min. sec. 46 49 00 Time of chronometer. h. min. sec. 6 55 18.5 Ind' t error =» 4- 1 min. 40 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. h. min. sec, 6 21 ]3 h. min. yec. 34 05.5 Longitude. :*' ■!■• \i ' M : U ' ,, i (Js, . !'•" 1 1 ■'* ■ *. ■ [ 174] 464 ENCAMPMENT FN DESERT VMXEY. AMONO HT-ACK ROCKV WUA. Determination of latitude, Dici'mhnr 26, 181) — altitude of Polaris OBSEnVATION. Double altitude ot' FolArirt. Det^. min. bcc. M7 01 SO Time of chronometer /) min. itc. G S'J 30 (itdex error — -^ 1 raiii. 40 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Deg. mill. sec 43 30 44 Mean time. h. min. sec 6 15 32 Latitude 42 frnn we 110 09 CAMP OF DECEMBER 39-30. Determination of latitiide, December 29, 1843 — altitudes of Polaru. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Deg. mm. sec. 85 57 50 85 57 20 85 57 20 86 58 00 85 58 10 Time of chronometer h. min. .sec. 7 11 58 13 40 15 07 16 14 17 18 Index error -= 4- 1 min. 40 8ec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Deg. 42 mm. 58 see. 39 Mean time. h. min. 6 42 07 Latitude Deg. min so*. 41 27 50 ROCKY HfI,T,fl. itoJe of Polaris ' chronometer nin. sec. 59 30 Diff in.in we 42 00 09 46: C >71 ] TAMP OF i)i:(;KMin:u 29-no. Oelerminaiion of longitudr^ /JccemUt'Ud, 1813 — aflitiufci o/a Ci/qni. OHSEIIVATIONS. Double altitudes of a Cygni. Time of chronometer. I)'_ir. mill. SfC. h. Ill ill. A?L 7U 50 TiO 7 ao 1? 7i» 27 00 21 2 79 07 40 a'2 '„■ 78 3:t ao 21 0<^.i 7X 11 10 2fi Ki.O Indux error = -t- 1 min. 40 spc. HKSULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. 1 Ititudes of Polam. f chronometer mm. sec. U 58 Dee- min a"'- 4i 27 50 NEW VEAU'w KVK CAMP. Determination tf /a/ i/iidc, Dcciinher 31, IS i:i — altiluiks of Polaris, OBSEaVATIONS. Double altitudps of Pohuis. Time of chronometer. DefT. nan. sec 85 .39 30 85 39 00 85 :!8 50 85 38 25 85 38 40 85 38 30 85 38 20 85 37 50 85 37 10 85 37 30 h. m'ln. sec 7 32 49 34 18 35 44 36 45 37 54 39 27 40 29 41 41 43 03 44 34 Index error = + 1 min. 40 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION". True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Dtg. min. sec, 42 48 58 h. min, see. 7 09 34 Deg, min. see. 41 49 55 30 . f" I* I it]- ' WIj I 174 ] 466 NEW YEAR'S EVE CAMP. Determination of lojigitude, December 31, 1S43 — altitudes of a. Cygni. OBSERVATIONS. FIRST SEHIEB. SECOND SERIES. Double altitudes of Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of ■— ■ ' Time of chronoraetei. « Cygni. a Cygni. Deg. tnin. sec. //. min. sec. Deir. min. sec. A. min. see. 76 32 40 7 19 31.0 74 14 50 7 26 37.8 76 44 10 22 01.0 73 54 50 27 38.0 ?5 19 00 2? 16.5 73 36 40 28 33.0 V< 59 40 •:4 17.0 73 18 25 29 30. .5 74 37 ZZ 25 24.5 73 01 35 30 21.6 Mean time- n. TMn. G 56 sec. 37 Index error = -f- 1 min. 40 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Advance. h. min. sec. 29 06.3 Longitude. »:: ' CAMP NEAR THE MUD LAKE. Determination of longitude, January 3, 1844 — altitudes of a Cygni. OBSEIIVATIONS. Double altitudes of a Cygni. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec. 74 44 40 7 08 58.0 74 22 00 10 07.0 73 54 50 11 29.0 73 33 40 12 S4 73 • 11 15 13 43.0 Index error = -J- 1 min. 45 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. h. min. sec. 27 34.8 Longitude. /). min. sec. 6 43 47 ^ itudes of a Cygni. ) SERIES. ' Time of chronometei. A. min. sec. 7 26 37.2 27 38.0 88 33.0 29 30. .5 30 21.6 467 C 174 ] CAMP NEAR THE MUD LAKE. Determination of latitttde, January 3, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. D^g. min. sec. h. min. sec. 84 35 30 7 18 18 84 36 15 20 06 84 36 50 22 04 84 35 15 84 40 84 35 IQ 25 25 Index error = -f~ ^ ^^' ^^ ^^' RESULT OP CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Beg. min. sec. 42 17 30 h. min. sec. G 35 31 Deg. min. sec. 40 48 15 » mi , i. Si' 1 1 .■ :■' r m itudes of o Cygni. chronometer. win. sec. 08 58.0 10 07.0 11 29.0 12 S4 13 43.0 CAMP NEAR THE GREAT BOILING SPRING. Determination of longitude, January 6, 1844 — altitudes of a. Cygni. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of a Cygni. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec. 70 21 40 7 10 04.0 70 03 50 10 56.0 69 47 30 11 45.6 69 28 20 12 47.0 69 08 40 13 47.5 Index error «= -J- I min. 48 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. h. min, sec. 66 44 28 Advance. h. mm. 27 sec. 83.7 Longitude. '«i;t ' [ 174 ] 468 CAMP NEAR THE GREAT BOILING SPRING. Determination of latitude, January 6, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. * OBSERVATIONS, I I 'I V Double altitudes of Polaris. ^ Deg. mla. sec 84 17 10 84 17 20 84 17 00 84 16 50 84 16 30 Time of chronometer. min. fer. 16 41 18 29 19 32 20 54 21 56 Index error = -|- I min. 48 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 42 08 19 k. min. sec. 6 C'-Z 02 Deg. min. .src. 40 39 44 Determination of latitude, January 8, 1844, {.same station) — meridian "* altitudes of the sun. • Uouble altitude of the sun's lower limb. True central altitude. Latitude Deg. min. sec. 53 ?<= 35 Deg. min. sec. 27 03 07 Deg. min. sec. 40 39 49 Mean latitude 40 deg. 39 min. 46 sec. if 111. i " fi" lit Si n tation)— meridian 469 . [ 174 ] encaI^pment on pyramid ^AKE. Deiermination of longitude, January 12, 1844 — altitudes of a. Cygni. OBSERVATIONS. IIHST SEllIEg SECOxn SEniES. Double altitudes of a Cygni. Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of a Cygni. Time of chronometer. Beg. min. sec. 63 59 00 63 34 00 63 15 50 62 39 45 62 20 25 h. 6 min. 45 46 47 49 50 sec. 14.5 31.0 24.0 14.5 14.0 Deg. min. sec. 62 03 25 61 44 00 61 28 45 61 07 30 60 48 10 h. min 6 51 52 52 53 54 sec. 08.5 05.5 58.0 59.0 59.0 Index error = -|- 43 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Determination of latitude, January 12, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris- OBSERVATIONS. * Double altitudes -f Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. see. A. min. sec. 83 22 50 7 00 20 83 22 40 01 39 83 22 30 02 29 83 22 25 08 19 83 5,1 40 06 33 83 21 15 06 4S 83 21 00 07 46 83 21 00 08 46 83 20 20 10 37 83 20 25 11 31 Index error l^ 4- 43 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. ir- .iMt i'< t 'f^m ^fl^ Ki}'-" «1 pf i! ■ 11 il Hj|: K [ 174 ] . 4f0 ENCAMPMENT ON SALMON TROTTT RIVER. Determination of latitude, January 16, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Deg. mm. sec. 77 21 10 77 20 40 77 19 20 77 18 50 77 18 50 77 18 25 77 18 00 77 17 10 77 16 30 77 15 50 Time of chronometer. h. 3 mm. sec. 11 29 a. m 13 13 14 32 15 43 16 45 17 59 19 12 20 37 21 45 23 01 Index error -= + 44 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. sec, 38 38 23 h. min, sec. 2 55 04 a. m. Dfg. min. sec. 39 51 13 Determination of longitude, January 16, 1844 — altitudes oftircturus. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Arcturus. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. k. min. sec. 90 06 00 3 41 23.6 a. ra. 90 33 00 42 35.8 90 57 50 43 43.0 91 41 35 45 38.0 92 11 50 47 01.0 Index error = -f- 44 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. fu min. sec, 3 21 42 a. m *i. Longitude. ItWiw ides of Polaris. onometer. sec. 29 a. m. 13 32 43 45 59 12 37 45 01 Latitude. g, mm. sec. 9 51 13 udes o/xirctums. ironometer. sec. 23.6 a. m. 35.8 43.0 38.0 01.0 Longitude. 471 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT ON SALMON TROUT RIVER. Determination of longitude ) January 16, 1844 — altitudes of Procyon. OBSERVATIONS. FIRST 8ERIK8. Double altitudes of Procyon. Dtg. min. see. 69 45 00 69 16 20 68 46 25 68 16 40 67 49 55 Time of chronometer. h. 3 mm. 26 27 29 30 32 sec. 31.2a.m. 52.0 20.5 44.0 02.0 BECONO SERIES. Double altitudes of Time of chronometer. Procyon. Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec. 67 23 50 3 33 15.4 67 01 50 34 15.0 66 39 10 35 22.0 66 13 50 36 31.5 65 49 00 37 42.0 Index error = 4-44 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. /{. min. see. 3 10 02 a. m. A. min. sec. 22 20.0 * CAMP ON A RIVER OF THE SIERRA NEVADA. Determination of latitude, January 18, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec. 76 61 50 6 20 39 0. m. 75 51 45 22 25 75 51 50 24 07 75 53 00 25 39 75 52 50 27 10 75 53 00 28 31 Index error = + 44 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. r„/ '' ? 'tl=: True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. f Deg. min. sec. 37 55 32 h. min. sec. 6 05 17 a. m*. Deg. min. 39 24 sec. )6 • 'k ;< 'Ifcl mm I 174 ] 47-2 CAMP ON A RIVER OF THE SIERRA NEVADA. Determination of longitude, January IS, 1844 — altitudes of a. Leonis. OBSERVATIONS. p m' m ''■' IliiJ mk .. , <; r. I 1.1 15 '■ i: H > Double altitudes of a Leonis. Time of chronomelrr. Deg. min. 62 12 61 31 60 28 sec. 30 00 30 h. min. C 32 34 36 sec. 13.0 a. m. 05.0 48.5 Index error = + 44 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. h. 6 nun. 13 nee. 59 a. m. Advance. h. min. 20 sec. 23.0 Longitude. Determination of longitude, January 18, 1844 — altitudes of a Lyrx. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of « Lyrte. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. 80 39 81 37 82 15 sec. 60 40 45 • h. min. 6 41 44 46 sec. 50.0 a. m. 31.5 14.0 Index error = -J- 44 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. A. min. sec. 6 23 4€ a. m. Advance. h. min. sec. 20 25.4 Longitude. udes ofo, Lyrx. onometer. 473 [ 174 ] SECOND ENCAMPMENT ON A RIVER OF THE SIERRA NEVADA. JjtUrmination of longitude, January 19, 1844 — altitudes of a Cygni. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudcB of a Cygni. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. k. min, tee. 60 54 50 6 35 59.0 60 27 26 37 23.5 60 10 20 38 18.0 59 52 35 39 16.0 59 32 30 40 18.0 Index error «== ^ 45 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Longitude. Mermination of longi tude, January 19, 1844- OBSERVATIONS. -altitudes of a Orionis. Double altitudes of a Orionis. Time of chronometer. Deg. 73 73 74 74 min. sec. 24 00 52 50 22 50 48 00 h. min. 7 01 02 03 04 sec. 01.6 22.0 47.0 58.0 ] Index error = + 45 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h- min. sec. 6 43 32 h. min. sec. 19 30.2 f*'! fvi V*^ \h\\ t \]l ^.M SI ( i ji ; ! C m] 474 R 1 1 h I SECOND ENCAMPMENT ON A RIVER OF THE SIERRA NEVADA Determination of latitude, January 19, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. THIRD ENCAMPMENT ON A RIVER OF THE SIERRA NEVADA. Determination of latitude, January 21, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. TH Oetermi, Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. see. 80 32 00 7 43 87 80 29 45 45 03 80 30 00 46 38 80 01 25 8 37 13 80 01 20 38 29 80 00 20 40 03 70 59 50 41 29 79 59 10 42 30 Index error = = + 50 sec. udes f P< o_..:„ Ti of chronometer. ■ ^^|~ ^H Deg. , h. J sec ^^^H ' 81 32 10 6 43 20 ^H 81 32 00 44 45 ^1 81 31 20 46 06 ^1 81 31 25 47 26 ^1 81 30 45 48 36 ^H 81 30 20 50 13 ^H 81 29 45 51 24 ^H 81 29 25 53 10 ^1 81 28 45 54 66 n 81 29 00 56 10 ■ Index error = -|- 45 sec. RESULT OP 'CALCULATION. ■ Mea ^1 ■ True altitude. Mean time. Latitude, 1 Deg, min. sec. h. min. see. Deg. min. su. 1 40 44 33 6 30 14 39 19 21 ^1 Determit Doui Det 8t 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 RESULT OP CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. ' Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 40 03 01 h. min. sec. 7 64 12 Deg. min. 39 01 see. 53 True ■Oeg-. m 40 I' :RA NEVADA tudes of Polaris. ihronometer. ntn. SK 43 W 44 45 46 06 47 26 48 36 60 13 51 24 53 10 54 56 56 10 Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 39 19 21 RRA NEVADA. Htudes of Polaris. ' chronometer. min. sec. 43 87 45 03 46 38 37 13 38 29 40 03 41 29 42 30 Latitude. Deg. 39 min. sec. 01 53 476 [ 174 ] THIRD ENCAMPMENT ON A RIVER OF THE SIERRA NEVADA. Determination of longitude, January 21, 1844 — altitudes of Procyon. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Procyon. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec. 55 58 20 7 54 16.0 74 20 50 8 45 10.0 74 49 50 46 32.6 Index error = -f- 50 aec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. sec. 8 01 45 h. min. sec 18 19.0 FOURTH ENCAMPMENT, NEAR A GAP. Determination of latitude, January 22, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Deg. min. sec. 80 12 20 80 11 15 80 10 45 80 10 15 80 10 15 80 09 40 80 09 20 80 08 40 80 08 00 80 07 10 Time of chronometer. mtn. sec 28 41 30 05 31 41 32 48 3i 48 35 01 36 13 37 30 38 59 40 40 Index error = 4-50 sec RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Deg. min. sec. 40 04 09 Mean time. h. min. sec. 7 16 35 Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 38 49 54 '■ Al i' ,«■ !' t- !■•'" 1; ?v; ' m - u ,i' ,^, '1 ! 1 I It \ 91.1- || ' »' J f vi . m » 1 ' W h klftf VM% [ 174 ] 476 FOUKTH ENCAMPMENT, NEAR A GAP. Determination of longitude, January 2^,1844 — altitudes of Procyonl OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Procyon. Dtg. min. see. 56 57 30 57 34 20 .53 13 25 Time of chronometer. mm. 62 63 50 see. 12 61 Index error w= +^50 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. CAMP ON A SOUTHERN BRANCH OF THE STREAM OF ENCAMPMENT OJ 22d TO 23d. Determination of latitude, January S3, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Z>e^. mill. sec. h. min. see. 7» 44 50 7 23 58 T9 44 40 25 27 79 43 45 27 00 79 42 45 28 04 79 42 35 29 01 79 42 40 30 07 79 41 35 31 28 79 41 10 32 35 79 40 30 33 49 79 40 25 34 64 Index error = -f- 50 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 39 50 30 h. min. sec. 7 13 01 Deg. min. sec. 38 36 19 477 [ I'-i] ^ ., lP. C\MP ON A SOUTHERN BRANCH OF THE STRE.WI OF EN(JAMPMENT OF I 22(1 TO 23il. 'tttudes of Procyon^ji^f^rmina/ion of longitude, January 23, I SH— a/til m/e.s nf Procyon. , OBSERVATION!*. ■ chronometer. mm. see. 62 12 53 51 55 39 1 Longitude. )F ENCAMPMENT 01 Uitudes of Polaris. f chronometer. min. see. 23 58 25 27 27 00 28 04 29 01 30 07 31 28 32 35 33 49 34 54 Latitude. Deg. min. sec 38 36 19 rinsT SI Dmiblc nltitiidos of Procyon. SIIIF.H. i 1 Time of rhronomctcr. ay.vosB flEltlEii. Double altitudes of Procvon. • Time of chronometer. l)f!r, min. sec. 53 57 20 51 24 ?0 51 45 20 5i 03 25 55 20 30 //.. mm, fee, 7 33 -415 39 53.4 1 40 4'JO 41 36.4 42 21.5 1 1 Dei;, min. sec. 55 41 10 55 .58 50 56 20 00 56 41 10 56 57 20 //. min. cec. 7 43 16.0 44 02.2 44 59.5 45 .56.4 46 38.0 Index error — + 50 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. vtin. sec. 7 26 12 h, min. sec. 16 37.0 ENCAMPMENT ON^ THE HEAD WATERS OF A STREAM. Determination of longitude, January 24, \S44— altitudes of Procyon. OBSEBVATIONS. Double altitudes of Procvon. Ucg. mm. sec. 53 07 20 53 35 15 53 68 45 54 16 40 64 40 50 65 00 20 Time of chronometer. h. min. sec. 7 31 37.7 32 51.0 33 53.4 34 40.5 35 42.7 36 36.0 Index error = + 48 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. h. 7 mm, 18 sec. 16 Advance. A. mm. 15 sec. 57.8 Longitude* ■ss ; ^ .sWP* . ft ■( m I'M \9 f ' h u lit, i m '^B' i^' m ffln ft 'J' i m-' m V ' 1 1 •'j^^H ^! '} J' lit I 174 ] 478 ENCAMPMENT ON THE HEAD WATERS OF A STREAM. Determination of latitude, January 24, 1844 — altitudes of Polarig, OBSERVATIONS. Double altitu(l«*H of rolaris. Deg. mfn. see. 7tt 11 00 79 10 00 79 10 00 79 08 85 79 07 ;i5 79 07 30 79 06 40 79 05 45 79 05 • 00 79 04 30 Time of chronnmeter. h. 7 tnin. 40 42 4a 45 47 48 49 51 52 53 tec. 13 14 36 03 13 23 55 18 36 56 Index error u=, + 48 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. S9 33 02 h. min. sec. 7 31 29 Deg. min. sec. 3S 24 28 CAMP ON A LARGE ^TKEAM. Determination of longitudcy January 2G, 1S44 — altitudes uf the sun, OBSERVATIONS. FIUAT SEUIKS. Double altitudes of the sun's lower liinb. Deg. min. sec. 38 52 00 a9 05 50 39 15 30 39 25 50 39 39 00 Time of chronometer. h. min. 9 33 34 35 35 30 sec. 46.6 .36.4 12.6 51.0 44.2 MECUM) SERIES. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Deg. min. sec. o9 39 40 40 40 50 58 07 16 25 30 05 10 35 45 Time of chronometer. I h. min. sec. 9 37 83.7 37 38 39 39 53.1) 28.3 01.5 ;36.5! Index error = -<- 50 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. h. min. sec. ft h. min. sec. 9 20 44 16 07.5 Longitude. ^ STREAM. itiide.1 of Polaris. chronometer. nun. aec. 40 13 42 14 43 36 4.1 03 47 13 4H 22 49 55 ftl 18 52 36 rtS 60 Latitude. Deg. 30 min. 24 sec. 28 Uliluiies of Me sun.] UNU 8ERIEB. the Time of chronoraet«r.l h. min. stc. 9 37 83,7 37 53.0 38 28.3 39 01.5 39 :)6.'i Longitude. 479 C J74 3 CAMP ON A LARCE STREAM. Htltrmination o/laii tudCyJaii. 26, 1844 — meridian altitude-t of the sun. OBSEHVATIUNH. Double altitude! of the lun't lower limb. Time of chronometer. ^^- min. tee. h. min. see. 18 60 S3 44 OA 19 00 25 00 66 20 16 27 10 66 20 15 28 19 66 80 00 29 64 66 19 'o(i 31 04 66 19 30 83 31 66 18 15 34 03 65 17 05 36 07 65 16 15 36 21 Index error —4-60 sec. BESULT OF CALCULATION. True central nltitude. .\j.[)arrnt time of transit. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec. 32 55 20 28 36 kkrminufion of longitude, January 26, IS44 — distance from the moon's first limb to Venus. Timec OBSERVATIONS WITH THE CIRCLE. )f clvronometei . Circle readinp^. h. min. fee. Deg. min. sec. 6 08 05 59 57 7 01 20 03 27 03 54 04 58 06 15 07 06 08 17 09 19 10 18 11 25 12 31 13 31 ! 80 35 40 ! RESULT OP CALCULA'J ION. True distan ce. Mean time at Greenwich. Longitude. * Deg. min. tec. k, min. ser. Deg. min. sec. 57 55* 18 14 57 48.8 121 19 52 1 - % I '1 . 'i.',A It' '■ I ' f n: • r» [ 174 ] 480 CAMP ON A LARGE STREAM. Determination of latitude, January 26, 1844 — altitudes of Polar i. OBSKRVATIONS. m^ hv :i4' r, If fe ;' B, ^W r ;»;■ 1 1'^ 1 ■'i^ 1 f 1 si H 3 ■'•■ :1 ,' A,.. ' Alt... III! I"! 1 1 '> Double altitudes of Polarii;. 1 Time of chronometer. Deg. min. 78 53 78 53 78 52 78 51 78 51 sec. 30 t5 10 50 15 k. 7 min. :^9 42 48 44 46 sec. 59 02 08 42 19 Index error = + 50 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. 1 Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 39 25 VJ9 h. min. sec. 7 27 20 Deg, min. sec. 38 18 Ul DetermiiHiliun oj lo ngi fPro tade, January 26, 1844- OBSKRVATIONS. —altitudes of Procyo . Double altitudes o cyon. Time of ci Tonometer. Deg. min. hb 15 56 43 57 16 57 42 58 08 sec. 20 25 40 50 40 h 7 min. 31 33 84 85 86 see. 49.5 03.0 32.0 41.0 49.0 Index error = 4-50 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION • Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. sec. 1 18 30 h. min, sec. 16 53.2 Double altitude Prorvoi!. De^. mm. SI ijl V.i 61 44 *> 62 08 1 «2 26 4 62 45 4 /■. mtn. 7 18 )e^, mill. see. 3d 18 01 udea of Procyoi ironometer. 481 C n-4 ] CAMP OX THE SAME STREAM A8 ON THE NIGHT OF JANUARY 18-19. determinalion nf longitude, Janmiry 30, 1S44 — altitudes of Procyon. OBSERVATIONS. FIKST SKIIIES 1 SECOMI SERIES. Double altitudes of Proryoii. Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of Procyon. Time of chronometer. Ueg. ■iiiii. sec. 61 13 00 61 44 20 52 08 15 62 26 40 62 45 40 h. mill. sec. 7 08 09.0 09 33.0 10 37.0 11 26.2 12 18.3 Dei;, mill. sec. 63 O.i 00 63 ;:4 30 63 44 00 64 07 00 64 2.3 45 7 min. sec. 13 U.O 14 03.4 14 56.5 16 01.4 16 52.0 Index error = + 62 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Retard. Longitude. ('. viin. sec. h. mill. »ec. 7 18 35 05 52.6 1 i Determination of latitude, January 30, 1S4 1 — alt it u des of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. • Time of chronometer. Dex. min. sec. k. min. sec. 79 22 40 7 19 65 79 22 50 21 38 79 22 00 22 45 79 20 40 24 01 79 20 30 25 23 79 19 40 26 27 79 18 50 27 35 79 18 10 28 37 79 18 10 29 26 79 17 45 30 24 ■■ ■!■ ^ Index error = -J- 52 aec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time- Dtfr. min, sec. 39 39 20 31" ~ h. 7 mm. 31 sec. 31 Latitude. Dee^. min. lec. 3S 37 18 !, # »^ * >i t.\ » I . i\ i , fill; m''- ',' ■sPI"' 11' ■ .■■)i H [ 174 ] 482 FIRST CAMP IN THE PASS OF THE SIERRA NEVADA. Determination of latitude, Feb. 5, 1844 — meridian atiitudts oj the sun. OBSEi.VATlONS. Determination Double altitudes of the sun's lower liml'. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. f^ec. h. min. nee. 70 02 35 00 4H 70 03 30 01 52 70 04 25 04 34 70 04 40 05 ly 70 04 15 06 08 70 04 45 06 59 70 04 40 07 44 70 04 20 08 25 70 04 20 09 54 70 04 00 10 57 70 03 35 12 03 70 02 50 13 02 Index error = + 52 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Determifiatit Determination of longitude, February 5, 1844 — altitudes of the sun, OBSERVATIONS. FIRST SERIES. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Deg. min. sec 45 28 30 45 20 16 45 09 30 45 01 15 44 54 16 Time of chronometer. SECOND SERIES. Double altitudes of the sun'« lower limb. 2 mm, 52 53 5.S 54 54 Time of cnionomcter. sec. Deg. min. sec 40.0 44 46 60 11.3 44 41 16 48.7 44 33 65 19.2 44 27 50 47.3 44 22 36 h. 2 mm. 55 55 56 56 56 sec 13.0 37.4 01.4 23.7 44.5 Index error = + 52 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. ;* oj the sun. iter. litude. 77J17?. sec. 42 26 ?so/the sun. ES. le of cnronometer. h, min. SK. 3 65 13.0 .55 37.4 56 01.4 56 23.7 56 44.5 longitude. 483 [ 174 ] THE LONG CAMP. Jjetermination of longitude, February 14, 1S44 — altitudes of Procyon. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Procyon. Time of chronometer. Deg, min. sec. h, min. sec. 77 06 50 6 48 02.0 77 38 00 49 32. U 77 56 50 50 28.0 78 17 40 51 28.5 78 37 30 52 27.0 Index error = -|- 52 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Retard. Longitude. h. min. sec. 7 02 00 h. min. sec. 11 36.1 Deg. min. sec. 120 25 57 Determination of latitude, February 14, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Deg. 79 79 79 79 79 79 79 79 79 78 77»7,7J. 06 05 03 03 02 01 00 00 00 58 sec. 20 30 60 20 00 35 50 10 00 35 Time of c' >• ometer. h. min. sec 6 55 48 57 09 58 23 59 43 7 00 59 01 51 02 58 03 58 04 53 05 54 Index error = -(- 52 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg, min. sec, 39 30 22 h. min. sec, 7 12 46 Deg, min see. .38 41 03 Wi 1 )PI 1 M4 1r!" ^^:ji' [ 174 ] 484 THE LONG CAMP.* Determination of time, February 19, 1844 — altitudes of the sun. OUSERVATIONS. FraST SERIES. RGCOXn SERIES. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Double sun's altitudes of tlie lower limb. Time of chronometor, Des;. min. sec. 48 45 15 49 02 10 49 09 40 49 17 40 49 26 05 h. min. sec. 9 00 OS. 4 01 04.3 01 29.2 01 56.5 02 26.4 49 49 49 49 50 min. sec. 35 10 43 00 49 30 58 50 03 50 /(. min. sec. 9 02 56.0 03 23.0 03 46.2 04 18.4 04 51 <) Index error = 4-50 sec. RESULT OV CALCULATION. Mean time. Retard. h. min. sec. 9 16 21 h. min. sec. 13 42.S * The daily losing rate of the chronometer, obtained from the observations at this place, is 25.82 seconds. Dderininuti Double uilituc True central t of chronometer. ml 71. sec. 02 56.0 03 23.0 03 46.2 04 18.4 04 510 485 THE LONG CAMP. [ 174] Oelerniination of latitude, Februari/ \i), 1844 — meridian altitudes of the .SU71. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of the Bun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Beg. min. sec. h. min. sec. 79 17 20 11 50 58 79 17 50 51 54 79 19 10 52 44 79 19 05 53 27 79 19 40 54 10 79 20 55 55 21 79 21 20 56 15 79 31 20 57 32 79 21 50 58 25 79 21 55 59 16 79 22 05 00 17 79 52 00 01 14 79 21 45 02 09 79 21 35 02 59 79 21 20 03 65 79 20 15 05 14 79 20 00 06 09 79 18 30 07 39 Index erroT i^ -f- 50 eec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True central altitude. Apparent time of transit. Latitude. Deg, min, sec, 39 56 36 h. min. see. 11 59 30 Deg. min. sec, 38 41 51 [ 1T4 ] 486 CAMP ON THE RIO DE LOS AMERICANOS, (HIGH IN THE MOUNTAIN.) Determination of longitude, February 24, 1844 — altitudes of a. Lyrx. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of a Lyre. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec. 81 00 00 3 42 53.4 a. m. 81 35 30 44 30.0 82 01 45 45 40 6 82 25 50 46 46.3 82 69 10 48 18.6 Double altitudes gun's lower lir Index error 50 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Retard. Longitude. h. min. sec. 4 00 55 a. m. h. min. sec. 15 17.2 Deg. min. sec. 120 34 20 Deter minati ii: K.i Determination of latitude, February/ 24, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitude? of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec. 74 44 20 3 54 08 a. in. 74 45 10 56 00 74 46 00 S8 04 74 45 45 59 34 74 46 30 4 00 51 Index error = + 60 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 37 21 56 h. min. sec, Deg. min. see. 4 13 00 a. m. 38 46 68 min. see. 46 58 487 [ 174 ] NUEVA HELVETIA. Delerminatlun of time, March 10, 1844 — altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. FIRST HERIKH SECOND 8KRIES. RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. A. 8 mm. 06 28 h. Retard. mm. 17 sec 38.9 Determination of latitude, March 14, 1844 — meridian altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Dee;. mm. sec 96 4Q 40 97 05 05 97 17 50 97 31 00 97 37 00 97 40 40 97 41 30 97 51 50 97 52 30 97 52 16 Time of chronometer. h. min. sec 11 21 36 25 22 29 59 33 28 36 56 37 .•»'^ 38 35 46 58 47 58 52 00 Index error = — 6 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. , (■ .• i. ; |j ,j Wu -.1 '■■-.:• »•' * i kf ! ; ■t If- M [ 1'^ ] 488 NUEVA HELVETIA. Detcrmhiation ofhitlliide, March 14, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Lh(;. tnin. MC. h. milt. sec. 77 08 40 7 11 16 77 07 30 12 55 77 07 00 14 37 77 06 10 15 49 77 05 00 16 56 77 04 00 18 15 77 02 55 19 27 77 01 60 20 31 77 01 40 21 51 77 00 30 23 33 Index error — > — 4 sec. KESULT OP CALCULATION. True hltitudc. Mean time. De^. rnin. fee. 38 31 01 k. 7 mm. 37 sec. 02 Latitude. Deg. 38 mm. 34 tee. 45 ^determination of fatittide, March 1 5, 1844 — meridian altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. Dcterminai FinST Poubie altiluice of tii(l sun's lower limb. 1 Dig. min. sec. 43 27 40 43 40 00 43 60 00 44 00 10 44 12 40 Mean h. mir 8 10 iMerminution of Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Leg. min. iec. 98 35 30 98 37 30 98 38 20 98 38 20 98 39 10 98 39 20 h. min. sec 11 42 35 43 41 45 09 46 02 47 03 48 31 49 22 50 30 51 24 52 22 53 19 54 28 65 33 Index error c= — 4 sec RESULT OF CALCULATION. True central altitude. i Apparent time of transit. Deg. min, sec. 49 35 01 h. min. sec. 11 49 04 Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 38 34 40 Double altitudes of t Ueg. mi lOi 3 102 3 102 3 102 3 102 3 102 3 102 3 102 3 True central altitud Dfg. min. sec. 51 32 .58 Mean of latitudes tab Pohiris. s of the sun. r. sec. 40 489 [ 174] ISUEVA HELVETIA. Determination oj time, March 16, 1844 — altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. 1 FIRST 8EHIK8. I §ECON» 8KU1E8. 1 louble altituJcs of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of the Bun'a lower limb. Time of cliTonometcr. 1 Deg. min. see. 43 27 40 43 40 00 43 50 00 44 00 10 44 12 40 h. min, .lec. 7 48 23.2 48 58.5 49 27.4 49 54.0 50 28.6 Deg. min. sec. 44 22 10 44 31 35 44 42 00 44 56 30 . 45 07 60 /(. min, 7 50 61 51 52 63 see. 55.2 20.4 53.0 30.4 00.5 1 Index error = — 5 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. "^1 ide. S Mean time. h «d. ^1 n. ^M 1 45 ■ h. min. see. 8 10 39 h. min. see. {, 19 58.0 jH \Merminution of latitude, March 20, 1S44 — meridian altitudes of the nun. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Deg. min. Dec. Hii 35 00 102 35 30 102 35 00 102 35 10 102 34 50 102 34 40 102 33 35 102 32 00 Time of chronometer. k. min. sec. 11 44 52 45 52 46 44 47 34 48 26 49 14 60 57 51 58 Index error >=i + 8 sec RESULT OF CALCULATION. True central altitude. Apparent time of transit. Latitude- Dfg. min. sec. 51 32 .'J8 h. min. sec. 11 46 65 Deg. min. sec. 38 35 15 Mean of latitudes taken at this station between 'he lOtli and 22d of March = 38*" 34' 42". mm W\Wk f-m 4 pi ' i m rife w m am Mm C 174 ] 490 NUEVA HELVETIA.* Determination nf time, Marcti 22, 18*14 — attitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. riH8T 8ERIEH. HECONn SERIES, Double altiludes of tlie sun's lower limb Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. ate. 46 31 10 46 41 35 46 50 00 47 04 20 47 14 45 h. mill. sec. 7 43 32.5 44 00.0 44 22.5 45 04.0 45 .32.0 Defr. min, sec. 47 21 60 47 29 40 47 38 10 47 45 .50 47 55 10 h. 7 min. ii;,, 45 .'52,0 46 12.4 4« 36.U 46 56.4 47 80.6 Index error «=» -|- 8 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time 8 min. 08 ENCAMPMENT ON THE RIO DE LOS MUKELE VINES. Dttermination of longitude, March 25, 1844 — altitudes of t/iesun. OBSERVATIONS. riBST SERIES. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Deg. min. see 62 16 26 05 52 41 30 Time of chronometer. 52 51 61 51 15 10 10 40 h. 3 nun. 30 31 31 32 32 see. 49.5 20.5 64.6 26.0 51.0 SECOND SERiaS. I Double altitudes of the sun s lower limb. Deg. min. see 61 19 lu 11 00 52 44 51 51 50 50 40 50 50 35 |i Time of chtonometei h. 3 mm. 33 33 34 31 34 sec. 21.4 42.5 11.6 34.0 56.0 Index error ■= -\- 10 sec RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Retard. Longitude. h. min. sec. 3 68 39 h. min. sec. 25 23.7 Deg. mm. sec. 121 23 OJ ENf Deierminat Double al Deg. 76 76 76 76 76 76 76 76 76 76 True altitudf Dt^. min. .i 37 42 ENC Delerminatioi FIRSl |l)oublealtitude.softlu nin's lower limb. Cf?. min. sec 54 06 00 53 51 45 .W 37 6(t .').•} 26 30 53 15 10 Mean time. *The daily losing rate of the chronometer, obtained from the obser^'ation8 at this place, is 25". 71 mtn. 54 se 5> ^f Iht sun. IIES. ime of chronometer. h, Piin nil. id. 45 52.11 46 12.4 4B 36.0 46 66.4 47 20. C sec 50.2 NE8. les of the sun. ERIBS. rime of chronometei k. rn 'Vi- sec. 3 sa 21.4 33 42.5 34 11.6 31 34.0 34 66.0 Longitude. fjr. Htm. S«<^' I 23 OJ , this place, is 25".7l 491 [ m] ENCAMPMENT ON THE RIO DE LOS Ml.'KELEMNES. Determination of hitil^ide, March 25, 1844 — 'iltitude.s nf Polaris. OBSERVATION.*!. Index error — -^ 10 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. mm. 53 see. 21 Latitude. 38 mtn, 08 see. 23 ENCAMPMENT ON THE RIO DE LAS CALAVERAS. Ddermination of longitude, March 26, 1844 — altitudes of the svn. OBSERVATIONS. FIRST SERIES. SECOND SERIES. I Double aititude.s of the fun's lower limb. Dta. min. sec. 54 06 0<»* 53 51 45 ."iS 37 50 S3 26 30 53 15 10 A. 3 mm. 26 26 27 28 28 sec. 210 59.4 34.4 03.6 36 ; Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. 53 05 00 1 52 58 30 52 48 3.5 53 39 10 52 26 10 A. 3 min. sec. 29 03.5 29 22.5 29 48.7 30 14.0 30 49.4 Index error -^ -+-12 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. h. 3 mtn. 54 sec. 58 Retard. mtn. 26 ,sec 16.3 Longitude. Dffr. 121 mm. sec. 16 22 [ 1'4 ] 494 ENCAMrMKNT 0\ THC RIO OF. F.AH CAl.AVKFJAS. Deferniirtdfion nf latihide, Marr/i 2fi, 1844 — n/li/ndet of Pnhriy OHSEUVATIONS. I>oul)lr iiltitudcH of I'olarJH. Iht;. mill. ate. 7ft 14 36 76 14 10 75 13 16 7ft 12 40 76 It 00 76 09 60 75 08 25 76 07 40 75 05 .30 76 04 36 Time of «'hrot lOlllPtO h. mill. nee. 7 23 33 24 44 2fi 07 27 30 29 07 3U 32 32 20 33 31 36 31 37 23 Index error .. -{- 12 mc. RKSUl/r OP CALCULATION. True altitude. Deg. min. see. 37 33 86 Mean time. Latitude. h. mill. sec. 7 56 22 Deg. 38 nun. 02 ate. 48 ENCAMPMENT ON STANISLAUS RIVER. Determination of latitude, March 28, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Dfg. min. see. A. min. see. 74 07 00 7 65 32 74 06 20 56 53 74 06 00 67 49 74 06 o« • 69 13 74 04 10 8 00 18 74 03 20 01 37 74 02 00 03 22 74 01 00 06 03 73 69 60 06 22 73 68 20 08 38 Index error _ -t> 12 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. VeM- 37 mm. 00 nee 28 h- min. nee. 8 28 02 Deg. min. see- 37 42 26 Iklfrmiiiatini I [\'-. mm. sec. V 03 45 • ) ;) t -20 V) 01 10 »i ;i'J 20 a 15 30 '. mill. .«oc > 44 41 Ii')ublt> altitudes of th 7/iin. sec. 02 46 493 C 174] ENCAMPMENT ON ^TANIMLAUrt RIVER. D,'l(rminfifinn n/ loni^itinfr, M(trc/t 28, l**!! — iillHudts of Cape Un. 0I5SERVATI0NH. riiur .sKRir.H. J«bl<':''litl»'<'« of Time of chrononu'tJ-r. Caiiellu. j i Ij'^', mln. iei'. /». mill. i V 02 45 H 11 31.5 1 M ;jj 20 12 54.0 M 01 40 14 30.(1 «. :i'j 20 15 35.5 i'i 15 30 10 4'*.n !tKI'U!rn AXRIK'*. Doulil. iiititmleM of ilJU'llu. 8H 87 mill. .v'f. 48 50 27 50 11 00 47 10 39 40 Time of chronoinotpr. I>. min. fee. S 18 ('5.0 10 (10.3 I'.) 57.5 21 OH.O 24 26.6 Indvx error -. -j- 12 mc HKSULT OK CALCULATION. Mean time. iiim. sec. 44 4 1 Retard. h. mil).. nee. 27 16.9 Longitude. Deg. mill. .?».v; 131 07 13 SECOND ENCAMPMET ON 8TANISLAU.S RIVER. \hdirminut ion nf longitude, March 31, 1844 — altitudes of the sun. Iff, ? :^l ■ OBSERVATIONS. If'wbic altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronom-Jter. Deif. min. fee. 5-J 27 45 52 15 35 52 00 10 51 51 UO 5 1 40 50 //. min. -fee. 3 34 30.1) 35 00.5 35 42.6 36 05.4 36 33 4 Index error - RESULT OF C = _+ 10 sec. ALCULATION. r>4 mi.W :.. li i^ [ 174 ] 494 SECOND ENCAMPMENT ON STANISLAUS RIVER Determination of hititnde, March 31, 1.' OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. >ff- min. SCf. 73 46 00 73 44 50 73 44 25 73 43 25 73 43 10 73 41 15 73 40 40 73 39 40 73 39 00 73 38 10 ■ ENCi4 "^AA—ulti tilde y of Polaris. H Utierri ne of rhronometer. ^1 Tin 1 h. min. sec. 1 8 04 57 H Double altit 06 42 ^H Arctur 06 09 00 15 H ^H 11 23 H !ke. min. 12 23 ■ bi 43 13 45 ■ 53 12 16 1ft ■ 53 36 16 1« ■ it 01 17 37 H 54 Index error = 4- 1 U sec RESULT OF CALCULATION. Deg. min. nee. 36 49 46 ENCAMPMENT ON A LARGE TRIBUTARY TO SAN JOAQUIN RIVER. Determination of latilvde, April ;5. 1844 — attitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. 73 36 30 73 34 30 73 33 45 73 32 00 73 32 00 73 31 00 73 30 15 73 29 30 73 28 25 73 27 20 mm. sec 09 09 10 14 11 87 12 ff5 07 i« U 31 14 SO as Index error = 4- 15 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. True altitude. Deg. min. ser. 36 44 32 Mean time. Latitude. h. 7 mm. 47 see. «5 Dfg. min. if(- 37 23 05 Mes fi. / 8 Be tern Doul T rue al De/r. 495 [ "4 ] RIVER. 'it(/es of Polaris. ' chronometer. nn. sec. [)4 57 96 42 06 00 09 15 11 23 12 23 13 45 15 IB 16 1« 17 37 ENCAMFMENT ON A LARGE TRIBLTARY TO SAN JOAQUIN RIVER. Utlerminuliono/ longifufie,j9pril 3, IS44 — allitndts of *.irclnrus. OBSERVATIONS. of chronometer. min. sec. 09 09 10 14 It V7 12 55 14 07 15 12 16 14 17 31 10 14 20 23 Dfg. min. tfc- 37 23 05 F I R.ST SKTIIES. SECOSD AKRIKS. Double altitudes of .\ return 8. Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of Arcturus. Time of chronometer. [kg. min. sec. a 43 50 53 12 25 51) 38 00 n 01 00 54 'ii 00 h. min. 8 00 02 03 04 04 sec. 48.5 02. 06.0 04.4 5R.4 Deg. min. 5t 44 55 08 55 34 55 d6 56 26 sec. 00 20 15 30 30 /(. min. see. 8 05 52.5 06 64.0 07 58.6 08 56.0 10 10.5 Index error - » + 1 5 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. .Meai time. 1 Retard. Longitude. k. miti. ■SI c. h. min. sec. Deg. min. SIC. H 36 36 31 07.3 120 ; 1 58 03 ENCAMPMENT ON SAN JOAQUIN RIVER. Determination njtatitwte, April 4, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double ahitudcs of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. A. min. sec. 7» 53 20 7 26 28 72 53 10 27 46 72 51 50 30 29 72 50 40 31 57 72 50 00 33 24 72 48 45 35 15 li 47 10 36 52 72 46 10 38 33 72 45 00 39 39 72 44 20 41 27 Index enor — -^ 20 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATIOK. T rue altitude. l>e,u;. min. sec. 3« 23 22 Deg. min. sec. 37 08 00 Ik M f Ifi* ' '^li ': 1 I'r >, ? u , rn 'i i 1 C ^4 ] 49G ENCAMPMENT ON SAN JOAQUIN RIVER. Defenninalinn nf /o?ip/ude, April 4, 1S4 I — nifi/iu/es of K.lrclvyu<;. OnSEHVATIONS. Double altiludes of Arrturua. Time of chrouoineter. Dr-r. lit hi . sec :a •■ih 00 52 10 40 fvi 45 40 63 17 40 m ■!6 50 Mean time. /t. mill. m.c. 8 28 06 A. ml II. f.iX. 7 62 57.5 54 26. -i .55 55.0 57 16 2 58 27.7 Index" error = -j- 20 sc:. UE.'iULT OF CALCUL.VTION. Longituiie. Dc:^, mill. s:c. 12U 45 22 SECOND ENCAMPMENT ON SAN JOAQUIN RIVER. Determination of latitude, Jlpril 5, 1S44 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSEKVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Dcfr. turn. SfC 71 58 30 71 ii)i Oo 71 57 20 71 56 50 71 55 20 71 5i 00 71 52 20 71 52 20 VI 51 15 A. iiiin. sec 7 44 18 45 511 47 25 48 53 50 34 5S 11 63 66 5S 09 fi6 14 Index error = + 20 sec. Tnif nltitiHe. Deg. mill. sec. 35 56 23 RESULT OF CALCULATION. Meaii time. A. 8 mm. sec. 24 20 Latitude. : Deg. miti. tec. ! .36 49 12 'Ii'.s of ^'2rc!t'nn. hronotncter. !.n. .vr. 2 57..''- 4 2(5.-. 5 55.0 7 If. 2 8 27.7 Longituile. !>'.':,'. inin. .sx. 12U 45 ^2 497 [ i74 ] vSE( ONU ENCAMPMENT ON 8AN JOAt^L'iN RIVER. Determinnlion of lo7igilu(lf-, ^Ipril 5, 184'4 — ailitudvs ofArcturus. OB-.E»;VATIONS. FlllSr SKlll E><. Double altitudes of Time of chronomotpr. .\rcturus. SECUNI) sesiES, Doiihli- altitudes of : Time of chronometer. AriHuru-i. Dtg. min. sec. 57 40 00 58 .33 30 59 04 15 59 3i) 45 6!) 13 35 //. mi'i. Sir. 1^'g- mill. ,SVf 8 03 o5() 62 26 10 05 ).V5 62 52 45 ()« 21.0 ri3 \C, 10 07 27.0 63 ■17 20 00 I0.fi -U 2S 0(1 h. min. «ec. 8 14 43.5 15 50.0 10 49,2 13 06.4 19 48.4 Meaa time. Indc.\ error -=> + 20 sec. KK^a.'/l' OF C.\I.(IJJ.ATIO.N. ' IJ.lard. I Longitude. min. 45 ^fc. 35 h. ni'n. '.) 33 sen. 55.1 :2o mm. sec. 38 34 1 , .^i.-.If S'' 'li tt'i ■■■"% it-. ■ .. i ft; • ^1 RIVER. de.'i of Fold vis 'hroiioinoter. mill. .vc 44 18 45 5(t 47 25 48 53 50 34 52 11 53 56 55 09 56 14 Latitude. Deg. miti. sec. .36 49 12 ENCAMPMENT OS THE \..\iiV. FOUR, (Oi^ THE TULARES.) De/ermi nation nf Jons;itride. April S, 1S41 — aliittides of the ^un. OBSKItVATIONS. FinST SKIIIEH, SL'JOMI 1 SEHIES. 3')nble altitudes of tlic Time of chriiiioiiieter. Double altitudes of the Time of i ^ronometer. sun's lower limb. 1 sun's lower 11 nb. Qtg. min. sec. /,. min. ,srf. 1 1 Deer, min. gee. k. min itec. 59 1 ; 55 3 16 30.0 57 26 10 :i 21 02.4 53 39 50 17 .-.3.0 57 08 15 j 21 48.0 53 33 00 18 36.0 .56 45 20 ( 22 i6.6 58 08 20 19 15.5 56 23 50 [ 23 41.7 5' 58 50 20 03.4 56 07 40 ! 24 22 6 Index error = -^ 35 sec. RESliLT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. h. min. sec, » 69 01 32 Lorgitude. Deg. min. see. 119 41 40 m I > I t 174 ] 498 ENCAMPMENT ON THE L/iKF TORK, ,0F THE TULARER.) Determinatio). ofhttitvde, dpru 8, 1^4 I- Otiittides qf Pnlcfn OBSERVATION*. ENCAM] Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. De^. min. sec. 71 15 15 71 12 30 7! 11 !0 h. min. sec. 7 21 23 26 07 36 39 Index error = 4- 36 sec. RESULT OF CALCULAIION. WU 't'l f-' .f|: »' mm Tnw altitude. Mean time. J3e?. wen jje: 35 35 15 h. 8 m>n. 02 fee. 36 Determination of longitude. ,iprii 8, 1644 — altitudes of ^rcinrus. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitode* of .\rcturuB. De^. -•ii). JKT. 52 03 tft 52 ■1 •' » 53 22 20 53 54 50 54 29 50 Time of chronometer. h. min. sec. 7 32 52.5 34 29.5 36 08.0 37 29.0 38 57.0 Index error =: -}• 35 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. T': ru Deg. 35 Determ Dou Mean time. A. 8 mm. sec. 14 15 Mear fi- m S 4 - "Af /» IILAREP.) s q/" Polr.ni ronometer in. sec. ,1 23 \b 07 80 39 Latitude. De^. min. see 36 24 50 uks o/^rcturus. chionometei. min. sec. 32 52.5 34 29.5 36 08.0 37 29.0 38 57.0 499 [ 174 ] BNCAMPMENr 0:V A SMALL STREAM, AFFLUENT TO THE LAKE TULARBB. Determii}ation of lutitxide, %tipril 9, 1844 — ultiliidfsof Polarv'. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. see. h. min. nee. 70 20 00 7 50 44 70 19 20 52 11 70 18 40 53 41 70 17 30 55 21 70 17 00 57 16 iiidex error = -+- 30. sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Deg. min. sec. 3b 08 01 Mean time. h. 8 mm. 33 sec. 39 Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 36 08 38 Deterniinaiion of longitude., x^pril 9, 1844 — altitudes of Arciurus. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Arcti Deg. min. sec. 66 27 50 67 07 10 67 41 no 68 10 45 68 40 00 uas. Time of chronon'?ter. h. min. sec. 8 03 04.5 04 40.4 (16 06.7 07 18.5 08 30.0 I I, : m ! [ !, I Index error = -f- 30 sec. Longitude. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Jflal- i*^ It I- Mean time. Retard. Longitude. ■ m h. min. sec. 8 45 57 h. mill. 40 sec. 00.5 Deg. min. sec. 119 22 02 ■'■■ ■■fe'i'^ 4 '• E i^-' m T 17^ ] 500 SECOND LiVf'AMrMKNT ON A SMALL STRRAM, AFFLtlBNT TO THE LAKE TIILAKBH Di'ternnnatinn of Idtitutfe, .ipril 10, IS'14 — iiltUudes of Polaru OBSERVATIONS. DiMibIc altitudes ot" PoIttri« Time of chronomet«r Def^. min. i>er 6!) M 30 69 31 ')0 69 ;jO 00 69 28 30 09 28 50 69 20 ;rt 69 2i) 40 69 25 00 09 2:5 r,() 69 23 .>i Tfuft iiltitudr Dee;. 34 mtn. .sec. 35 h. nil?i . sec. 7 59 05 8 01 .)! 03 2(i 04 .'JS 06 04 09 OH :o .)!> * •> 28 !4 :)7 1;> 49 Iruli'V error .-.- -f- 30 iv^r.. RESni/r OV CAUCULATro.V. I Mean timo. Latitude. h. -min. S 50 Sl-C. .10 Df'^. mill. .'t"' 35 r» :0 Determ ilia t inn f longitude, April 10, 1844 — ftltifude.^ of , Irrturu^. OBSKRV VTION.s. tM IIS r SF.1I I i ■'. SECO.M) SKllU.S. '■■'■fit Double altitudea of Tinv of le altitudes of Tiim- of ohDuoirir Arcturus. i ,| .^vctiirus. I Deg. min. sec. 82 41 40 82 f)9 30 83 31 50 83 54 00 S4 16 35 I h. inin. si'i'. />-. i.'ij'n. st'l'. h 8 37 02.0 S6 02 45 S 37 45.0 85 27 iiO 39 03.0 ' 85 57 30 40 00.5 86 28 30 40 55.0 . 1 86 48 30 Indox error = 4- 30 s< ;c. min. ifil' 42 47,0 43 50 S 45 o.vo 46 21.0 47 :o.o Leg. in 66 5 66 3 66 5 67 % e7 4 RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Retard. Longitude h. min. sec. 24 09 h min. sec. 42 08.9 Deg. min. sec. 118 56 31 501 [ "4 3 NT TO THE f.AKE (ks :)/ Polaris ENCAMPMENT NEAR PAS8 CREEK. IN THE SIERRA NEVADA MOUNTAINS, Determination of tutitudf, April 13, 1644 — uilitude.s of Polaris. UB!»£RVATION«. hronornfitftr Tl, atv.. ) 05 !. ill ■•! •26 4 h'S t) 04 9 OH .19 «> •is 4 37 '■') 49 Double ultitudeti of Pularis. thfr. iTiin. *fC. 68 41 20 68 40 15 68 i(9 25 68 38 00 68 38 15 68 36 50 68 3P 00 68 35 00 68 34 00 68 3? Vo „ _, Time of chronometer. h. min. see. 7 24 14 25 40 27 25 28 42 30 03 31 42 33 30 35 21 36 26 37 41 True altitude. Aldex error = -|- 30 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. ' Mean time. Latitude. ])>>. .V'' 35 l'» ':') Deg. min. sec. 34 17 12 8 nun. 15 •iff. 53 Latitude. Dei;, min. sec. 35 17 12 tude.f of.lrr.tnrui Deterr/iiuation of longitude, JJpritlS, 1844 — altitudes of ^returns. OBSERVATIONS. iof Til 111- <»f cKr ,non.,.« )]RST SERIES. -Seoul) NERIE8. Double altitudes of .'Ircturus. Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of Arcturus. 1 1 Time of chronometer. v. .') It) !0 10 10 h. 9, min. 42 43 45 46 47 470 511 5 050 21.0 lOo Leg. mill, nc, 66 57 50 66 31 45 66 58 00 67 26 40 67 40 00 h. min. *«. 7 41 21.4 42 44.0 43 49.7 44 59.5 45 55.7 Deg. min. stc. 68 19 50 68 45 00 69 U 10 1 69 M 25 i 70 00 00 1 h. min. sec. 7 47 09.0 48 10.0 49 14.0 50 10.7 51 13.4 Longitude Dee;- min. sec- 118 56 34 Mean ume. n. mm. ate. fci 3; SO Index error = -}- 30 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Retard. A. min. *«. 44 51.7 Longitude. Deg. min. sec. 1 18 35 03 Li'. « •! Till '.,'^^i V, ^t , ■ 1 ' :)f 1 V-' i! iHl hi 1 1 '' il ^ =-|!'ni:i 1 *- 1^ 1 mMbii 1 ' \ ij ! ^' ]*:■[ 'M 1 ) ' ".•: ^ -V. »; iJ'Pi [ 174 ] 502 ENCAMPMENT ON A SMALL STREAM, EAST OF THE SIERRA NEVADA. Determination of latitude, April 14, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec A. min. sec 68 16 30 7 11 03 61 15 JO 31 68 13 50 Ot •1 13 30 69 M 13 10 07 61 13 10 44 66 10 50 67 66 10 40 90 11 61 09 25 31 4t 68 09 25 23 03 Index error « -f. 30 se^ RESULT OP CALCULATION. True altitude. Deg. min. see, 31 05 00 Latitude. Deg. min. see. 35 03 00 Determination of longitude, April 14, 1844 — altitudes o/Arcturus OBSERVATIONS. FIRST SERIES. SECOND SERIES Double altitudes of Arcturus. Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of Arcturus. Time of chronometer Deg. min. sec. 6S 16 15 6% 54 20 63 24 00 63 48 30 64 11 50 //. min. see, 1 26 59.0 28 30.0 29 41.0 30 42.0 31 39.0 Deg. min. sec. 64 42 40 66 26 30 65 48 00 66 09 45 66 32 30 h. min. sec 7 32 .W.r 34 42 35 .33..') 36 26.0 37 24.0 Index error =^ -)- 30 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. h. min. sec. 18 52 Retard. n. mm. 46 .sec. 24.9 Lons^tude. Deg . min . sec 118 18 09 [ERRA NEVADA. fes of Polaris ronometer. 08 31 M 59 07 44 67 tl 49 OS Latitude. ^. mm. see. b 03 00 (m o/jircturus. SERIES Time of chronometer. k. min. sec 7 32 53.7 34 480 35 33.r, 36 26.0 37 22,0 503 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT AT ROCK SPRING Determination of latitude, ^pril 15. 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. lec. h. min, sec. 67 30 26 7 12 54 67 30 00 14 26 67 28 25 16 81 67 27 30 18 07 67 26 00 20 51 Index error -« -4- 20 sec RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min ■ sec. 33 42 57 h. min. sec 8 03 15 Deg. min. tee. 34 41 29 Determination of longitude, April 15. 1844 — altitudes of Arcturus, OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Arcturu^. Time of chronometer. Deg. min . sec. h. min. sec. 63 32 25 7 25 56.5 64 n 15 27 31.0 65 04 10 29 36.0 65 50 00 31 26.6 66 14 30 32 28.0 Index error = 4-20 sec RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time Retard. Longitude. mtn. 16 sec 07 h. Longitude. mtn 46 sec. 43.4 Deg. min. sec. 118 20 00 I ^' r J M ■:\p I : 4 V ilk mw >,: ;'i i ; 'eg . min . sec 18 18 09 fi't I ! ft\M[ It U 174] 504 ENCAMPMENT AT ROrK SPRING Determination oj /on^itui/c, Jpril Hi, IH M — altitudes of the sun. onsKHVAIlONS. FIHKT »ERIE!t. Double altitudes of tho Time of chronometer. sun's lower limb. De^. min. lee. h. ntin. HC. 69 09 40 ? 34 27.5 69 23 40 35 01.0 60 36 00 35 33.2 69 47 60 36 02.3 69 68 45 36 29.5 KEl'ONn BKRIRS. Double altiUiiles of the i Time of chronomelei. huh'h lower iimli. Deir. min. fer. 70 10 3^ 70 20 36 70 31 15 70 46 10 70 68 05 3»i 37 37 38 38 «c. 57.2 23.2 50.6 24.G 67.4 Index error »= — 2 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. h. min. sec 8 23 39 Retard. h. min. .lec. 46 56.3 Lon){itude. Determination of latitude, April 16, 1844 — meridian altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes ot the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. 130 44 00 130 47 50 130 50 30 130 60 45 130 60 45 130 50 30 130 50 00 130 49 20 130 48 45 130 47 40 130 45 30 130 43 45 k. min. sec 11 06 03 07 .14 10 03 11 56 13 07 14 18 15 21 16 06 16 50 \: 36 18 53 20 06 Index error — — 2 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True central altitude. Deg. min. sec. 65 40 58 Mean latitude at this encampment 34 deg. 41 min. 42 sec. hsoAMrMT Determ iKiuble altitu< Mjn'n lowri Def(. min 56 06 57 46 57 31 57 19 57 04 Mea 4 Dete 1) Dot Apparent time of transit. Latitude. ■ .- 1 True ■ 33 h. min. sec. 11 13 55 Deg. min. 34 41 stc 56 505 [ 174 ] ides of the sun. Ti mc of chronometer. A. min. nc. 7 3fi b',.2 37 23.2 37 50.5 38 24.6 38 57.4 Ititudes of the sun. iNf.\MPMENT AT THE hPTll\(J HEADS OK A .mMAI.L STHEAM AMONG THE FOOT JIIL1..S OF THE .MOI'NTAIN Detirinination of lo'iititudcy^pril 18, is I » — altitudes of the sun. On-iEllVATIONS. linoT AkRIKt. KEl'UNII kt.tlir.H. ■I ligubk ahitiidpH of the Tunc of chroiionirter. Doublr ahilmlos of the Time of chronometer. tun'H lower hmb. , , n\\n\ \x\vm liinh. H- min. Me. 58 06 40 57 46 55 57 31 60 57 19 00 57 04 20 A. min. ffC. Deg. min. ate. 3 16 44.0 56 36 2.'. 17 32.4 56 16 50 18 09.0 ; 56 01 55 18 39.4 56 52 30 19 H.3 . 55 39 .■SO Index error — - - 18 «>c. nESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. 1. WJJ»». su, 4 10 14 h. min. 3 20 21 21 22 22 sec. 23.0 11.8 41.2 11.3 43.0 Lon^ritude. Deg. min, see. 117 43 21 I — 'm.'-n hronometer. n. sec. 6 03 7 34 03 1 56 3 07 4 13 5 21 6 06 6 50 ~ 36 8 53 06 k i J Deter nil nut ion of latitude, ^'ipril 18, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris, OBSEKVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Dfif. min. see. 66 58 60 6C 58 !U 66 58 10 66 66 45 I h. nan. see. 7 02 28 03 59 05 03 06 36 Inuex error = — 16 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. •11 Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 33 27 22 h. miyi. u5 Deg. mm. see. 03 %* IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) Z. ^ // /. % fA !•>/ y£ ^^ " I.I -144 ' 2.5 2.2 ! -- m 1.8 1^ IIIIIM IIIIM y] <^ % n ?> 7 :> \^ y /A Photographic Sciences Corporation «. ,\ iV ^9>' ^ .^ ^° 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ^ <^ u.. i rh "SI lAN'i«iH TRAif ppfVL. ■encampment on the mohahve rivei{, on the 8PANISH tr.ah, from FE. iudes of the sun. KD SERIES. lie Time of chronometer. W, k. min. 3 67 58 58 59 4 00 sec- 1 51.3 1 19.8 '^ 53.5 / 37.2 4 42. f ■ Longitude. Deg. min. sec 117 13 00 PUEBLO DE LOS ANGELE8 TO SANTA FE. Determination of latitude, April 21, 1S44 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polari.s. Deg. min. sec 66 59 00 66 58 50 66 57 50 66 57 20 66 56 00 66 55 10 66 54 30 66 54 00 66 52 45 66 52 30 udesof%^rcturu<. fD -.F.RIES. Time of chronometer h. min. sec- 7 04 49.0 05 42.4 06 30.0 07 16.7 08 IPO Time of clironometer. k. min. sec 7 11 13 12 46 14 43 16 02 17 16 19 02 20 32 22 01 23 35 25 06 Index error = — 10 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Deg. min. sec. 33 26 21 Mean time. h. min. sec. 8 11 59 Latitude. /^•f?. min. sec. 34 34 11 -fo kkrmination of longitude, */9pril 21,1844 — distance from moon'^s first limb to Regulus. OBSERVATIONS WITH THE CIRCLE. Time of chronometer. Longitude. h. min. sec 7 .57 15 8 01 22 Circle reading. Deg. min. sec. 135 .34 .50 RESULT OF CALCULATION. True distance. Longitude. 4 J i \^4 [ 174 ] 508 ENCAMPMENT ON SAME RIVER AS ON THE 21s.t. Determination of latitude, Jipril 24, 1844 — ultittates qf Polaris. OliSERVATlONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Beg ruin. sec h. min. S€f. 67 32 45 1 15 07 67 32 00 16 40 67 31 10 18 09 67 30 25 19 41 67 30 00 21 08 67 29 20 22 12 67 28 45 23 27 67 27 55 24 41 67 27 10 27 39 67 26 15 28 46 Index error = — 10 sec. t\ :i ifh M ff f RESULT OP CALCULATION • True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 33 43 15 h, min, sec. 8 19 40 Deg. 7nin. sec. 34 5e GO Determination of longitude, Jipril 24, 1844 — altitudes ofArcturus. OBSERVATIONS. FIRST SKRIES. SECOND SERIES. n Double altitudes of Arcturus. Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of Arcturus. Time of chronomeierr^ i Deg. min, sec, 86 15 30 85 46 45 86 08 25 86 27 40 86 46 25 h. min. sec. 7 32 08.0 33 24.0 34 15.0 35 04.0 35 49.5 Deg. min, sec, 87 06 45 87 28 10 C- 48 25 88 13 50 88 33 45 h. min. 7 36 37 38 39 40 sec. 1 39.0 i; 31.3 R 19.6 ■.; 22.5 12,0 .- Index error = — 10 sec. I"''! ^' :p RESULT or CALCULATION. Mean time. h. s min. sec. 34 15 Retard. h. mm. 57 sec. 58.8 Longitude. Deg, 116 mm. sec, 29 19 PHE 21st itudes qf Polaris. )f chronometer. inin. sec. 15 07 16 40 18 09 19 41 21 08 22 12 23 27 24 41 27 39 28 46 Latitude. Deg 7nia. sec. 34 se 00 50.9 C 171 ] SCALP CAMP, 0\ THE SPANISH TRAH,. Determination of longitude, ^Jpril 25, IS t-1 — altitudes ofvircturua 0I5SERVATI0NS. FinsT T.niKs. Double altitudes of Arcturuf. ')ei^. nun. sec 78 43 -lO 79 17 10 79 41 45 80 03 4.5 W 24 15 sEcojrn HRRiES. Time of rhronometrr. D)iii)le iiliitudes of Arctnrus. Time of chronometer. Ill in. U 12 13 14 15 14.5 .34.4 33.7 28 19.0 i ; Dfl^r, mill. ■sen. •: HO 47 35 1 81 i 1 00 1 ^^ 42 15 82 10 30 |i 82 1; 30 50 //. min. tec. 7 1*5 14.7 17 13.6 18 30.0 19 40.0 20 26.7 Index orror = — 7 sec RESULT I1V ( ALCTTLATION. Mean time. ivctard. Longitude. itudes of Arc turns. ;OND S£RI£S. of Time of chronometer^ h. 8 min. 15 sec 01 //. min. 59 SfC. 05.0 Immer.sion of or Cancri. Observed time. Longitude. h. mill. sPc 10 57 41 Deg. 116 min. 23 ■sec. 28 . h. min. sec. ¥ ) 7 36 39.0 t » 37 31.3 i 38 19.0 1 39 22.5 ;., ) 40 12.0 -' Longitude. Deg. min. sec. lie 29 19 ij I 174] 510 SCALP CAMP, ON THE SPANISH TRAIL. Delerminution uj latitude, Jipril 25, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OUSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometPT i"V?- min. HC. h. min. sec. 68 ••0 00 1 24 35 67 69 30 26 21 67 58 30 28 02 67 57 20 29 17 67 57 !0 30 56 67 5G 40 32 35 67 55 30 33 51 67 55 40 rs5 09 67 54 50 36 45 07 54 00 38 26 Inde X error = — < sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. s(c. 33 56 57 h. min. sec. 8 30 36 Deg. min. sec. 35 13 08 tw. ... Determimitio.i of longitude, >.ipril 25, IS44 — altitudes rf o. Lyrac. OBSERVATIONS. Double a titudes min. of a Lyrse. sec. Time of chronometer. Dfg. n. min. .^cc. hi 33 00 n 22 01. e 8ft 02 35 13 20.0 85 29 15 i4 31.2 85 55 40 15 42.0 8fi 54 iJO J 8 14.0 Index error — — 7 sec. KESULT OF CALCULATION. !A1L. itudes of Polaris. of chronometer mm. sec. 24 35 iC 21 28 02 29 17 30 56 32 35 33 51 35 09 36 45 38 26 Latitude. iJeg. ruin. sec. 35 13 08 511 [ 174 3 ENCAMPMENT AT HERNANDEZ SPRING. Determination of longitude, t/lpril 29, 1844 — altitudes of*/ircturus. OBSKRVATIONS. FIRST SERIES. Double altitudes of Time of chrononieter. Arcturus. I)(g. niin. sec. 95 10 10 36 05 30 55 95 96 96 96 15 30 40 15 7 711 m. 33 34 35 36 37 sec. 24.5 30.6 44.5 46.5 48.0 SECOND SERIES. Double altitudes of Time of chrc nometer Arcturus. Ileg. mm. sec. h. mi)}. sec. 97 14 25 7 38 35.7 97 37 30 39 33.5 98 02 00 40 36.2 98 29 40 41 46.0 98 56 30 42 51.6 Index error = 4-10 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean ti ne. h. 8 mill. 40 sic 12 Longitude. itudes of a Lyrx. )f chronometer. nan. ^ec. 12 01.6 13 20.0 ]4 31.2 \h 42.0 J8 14.0 Determination of latitude, Jipril 29, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double iltjtudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Desr. min. sec. h. min. sec. 68 58 45 7 49 14 f.8 59 15 51 29 68 57 40 53 20 C8 57 20 54 38 68 56 40 56 58 Index error = + 10 sec. Longitude. True altitude. Deg. U mm. 27 sec. 38 RELULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. h. 8 mm. 55 sec. 04 Latitude. Deg. mill. sec. 35 51 21 i; i -f m «'^ii;!il t:-'-*' .!>' :i.i '4; iiki ^: II ir|.?^ [ 1*^ ] 5U ENCAMrMfl.NT AT DEEP SPKlNti HOLK, ON A ItlVKK WHICfl I.OftRS ITSELI IN SANDS. iJeterntitialion n/ Uilitude, May I, ISH — tillilia/ei a/ Polaris. on.SKRVATIONS. Double altituiles ot' Polaris. Time ot" clirDiiomiitur. Lkfr. will. .>i^/:. 69 :n 25 69 M K) 6« M) 10 69 i9 oO 69 38 If) 69 27 10 09 2« M «.» •J.") Ifi 60 25 20 ii\> •^'1 H) I — — k. min. set-. •i 40 OS fiO 26 53 17 53 38 56 07 57 20 68 55 7 01 38 ')3 02 04 !6 [l)ublp iMii.i iiin's lowi ''.!.'. ///// ■)fi 56 ■('. JG ■;rt 17 Inilcx error -}- 10 ser. KESULT OF CALCULATION. I True altiUulf. Org. mm. 43 Sfl'. 07 MiKtW ti'.tl'' Latitiiilii. — r /'. mhi. sf.i;. S Ul 58 Df^. min. sfc. 35 58 19 Dtt'^rmiualion of lomrilndc, Majj 1, IS H—tKitiK/cf o/\irc(ur'.ii OBSERVATIONS. Fill ST SI. Ill IS. Double altituiles of Arcturus. SK(.OXII Si:l'.IE->. I 'rinio nt'c-iiroiioini-tor. 1 Douldo altitudes of I Time of chronometer, f Arcturus. \ Deg. min. "fC '; 89 07 30 89 52 50 90 15 00 90 38 20 91 00 15 /(. mill mil. sec. 07 15.8 09 07.5 10 03.7 M 00.6 11 i>5 Deg. min. sec. 91 25 20 i)l 48 35 92 10 30 92 34 45 92 59 20 nun. ■KC 12 ,57.) 13 54.i 14 49..5 15 51.0 16 52.0 Index error = -f- 10 Bee. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. h. 8 mtn. 17 sec. 45 513 [ t^^ i lU'Ai I.OSKH ITSSLP ! 'es »J Polar in. UronoratiUsr 1' niri ser.. Sj 40 08 fiO 2rt ■xi 17 53 38 56 07 ^J 57 20 5H 55 K9 01 .38 ')3 02 f 1 04 !ti KNtJAMPM'^NT AT l.\s VJ]GA^ (THE MVRSHES.) Dctc/ ' hiu/iun of /oiiij^iluUi'. May ;>, I.S'l' — 'iltiludcH of tin: .m?) oi;a:;ii\ A■no^^.. l■lIll»T sr.r.;Ks sr.riiN I sKfil l;s. [liublc ulliliuln^' of llie I'iiin' oT i'liri)iiciiM(tPV. i DduMc iilliitiilcs i)f !li.' | 'I'iiiii' of (■liron)mctur Latituiit!. 35 nun. ser. S8 19 fuih's of^'irciurui. OVI) SF.11IE> ol" i Time of chronomewr. 7 12 57') 13 54.2 14 49.5 1 15 51.0 ! 16 52.0 1 Longitude. iii'8 lower liinli. 1 1 1 hiiii'k lllWfil litnl). (cy. /////'. ::ir. /■ . ///./// . 1 V(V. i J)<:;. mill. VCl?. A. inin. srr. % 50 45 3 I'J '.1.1.3 1| 5.^ 31 00 3 13 31.0 si; jc 10 i'.; 5i;.2 r r-.5 17 30 l(i 11.0 :i(l IV 50 13 ■il.d .':. (I'l 45 I!) 42.0 .li o:! ilO 14 IS.5 54 40 H) 17 2 to 5 18 35 11 51.0 51 33 10 18 01 Mean time. Index error =? -|- 1(> sec. a£SULT OK CAI.CI'LATION. ; Rcturd. '-i2 58 It. min. I 07 48.2 I.oii(fitudo. Determinu/ion (f luliluilc. May o, IH4 1 — .iltiliKks of Polaris. OBSEKVATIONS. DouMe altitudes of Poluii.'^. Deii. mill. sec 6!) 40 0(1 69 39 50 69 39 55 69 38 50 69 38 20 69 37 30 69 37 25 69 37 15 09 36 10 69 36 10 Time of olironometer. h. 7 mill. ,ier. 1! 22 18 51 20 04 22 08 23 22 24 45 2»i 27 27 33 29 19 30 34 Index error = + 10 acr. RKSULT OP CALCULATION. True altitude. Dt)f. min. itc. 34 47 45 Latitude. Defr. min. sec. 36 10 20 if I: 33 'f. . "l, ' 1 ri'1 •i 111 [ 174 ] 5lt ENCAMPMENT ON A BRANCH OF I HE RIO VIR(iE\. Determination of latitnde, Mu}/ 5, ltf44 — uUiludtH of Polaris. UBSEUVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polarii?. Time of fhronomrtpr )eir. min. xer. 70 44 ■iO 70 43 45 70 43 40 70 41 40 70 42 00 70 40 30 70 39 40 70 39 10 70 38 30 70 rJ8 30 //. inin. mc. 6 Ill S3 6 51 10 6 53 20 (' the j Tiincof cluonoinctiT hiiu'h lower liiiili. h. Dlllllllcilllitlllli'M of tlic r-liri'n lower lilllll. />i,'. mill. nrf. A\ •M r.o •1:1 50 0!> 44 10 00 44 Ci 10 44 41 46 inni. we. Dei'. I'lin . .»rc 14 •.13,-,' ^.-i (I'l 00 4"> 01.4 •1.") 11 15 4.5 .-jo.r) ■1.^ •in 15 4H 37,0 ; 45 38 1(1 47 10.0 , 45 49 35 'J'iiiio of I lirdiioiiicUir 5 iitiii. 47 48 4!t 4!> 50 Mr 21 ;i O'i,*. ■11. J 00,0 Index error =-f- 10 !<('e. Mean time. mm. 59 .«fr, 58 RRSFLT Ul' CALCULATION. Retard. //.. mill. nec- 1 13 15.5 Iiongitude. HI f SECOND EN(^\MPMBN'J' ON THE RIO VIRGEN. Determination of tons^itnde. May S, 1844 — nllitvde of Arctxirua- OESKKVATION. Time of chronometer. A. min. sec 7 07 02 Index error = + 10 sec. Itouhle altiti san's low des;. min 54 44 54 59 55 13 of) 'Z7 55 39 KESULT OF CALCULATION. Retard. h. min. see. I 14 41.3 Longitude. 'I'iriii' of 1 lirdiioiiirtAr 5i: [ !71 ] RFnON'D KNfWMPlVTnNT ON THE tUO VIFinKX. Dettirtniiuititni of tufihide, Mni/ S, IHU — ,iUitu(U\\ nf Polaris. oihkuvathins. Dnuhin altitudi'N of Poliirix, Defi. min. ne.c. 70 m 50 7(1 58 40 70 58 50 ro 57 00 70 58 10 Time of I'hronomolor. h. min. »M. 7 11 36 13 08 14 37 15 58 17 11 Index error = -J- 10 sec. nESUr.T OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. .sec. 36 27 52 h, min. sec. 8 29 09 Dtt;. ntin. sec. 36 53 03 rononicter. Determination of longitude, May 9, 1844 — altitudes of the sun. OUSEBVATIONS. FIRST SERIES. HfiCQNII 8EUIEH. Jtouhle altitudes of tlic Time of chronometer. Double altituili's of the Time of chronometer. 'jn's lower liml'. sun's lower limb. Df^. min, sec. h. niiti. src. Deg. min. sec. h. tnin. sec. 54 44 10 6 08 27.4 55 51 10 V, 11 13.8 64 59 20 09 04.0 56 03 30 11 42.0 65 13 10 09 37.8 56 11 55 12 04.4 55 27 35 10 17.0 56 21 20 12 29.4 55 39 40 10 47.0 56 29 40 12 51.3 • Index error = -. — 2 sec. KESULT OK Cj VLCULATION. tf wr J)' if^V L 1- i ] 51S THIRD ENCAMPMENT ON THE RIO VIRGEN. Determination of latitude, May 9, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of PolarU Time of chronometer. Dcg. min. sec. k. min. sec. 70 55 10 7 25 42 70 55 15 26 56 70 55 50 28 12 70 55 00 29 42 70 54 30 30 54 70 54 30 31 58 70 54 30 33 17 70 54 10 34 37 70 53 10 36 11 A. 1 ...■i.i 70 53 20 37 20 E Dete Doub!< Index error = — 2 sec. ENCAMPMENT ON SANTA CLARA FORK OF THE RIO VIRGEN. Determination of latitude, May 10, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitutles of PolarLs. Time Deg. min. sec. A. 7! 29 45 7 71 29 20 71 29 40 71 29 30 71 28 .50 71 28 30 71 27 45 71 27 30 71 27 30 71 2G 50 Time of chronometer. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time Latitude. Deter Double alti sun's lo^ min. sec. I %- m 16 36 ^1 5 17 38 ^1 ( 19 49 ^1 e. 20 .-ie ■ i 23 06 H 5 24 39 49 H 25 ^1 27 08 9 28 25 9 30 44 ifl M h. 4 3N. les of Polar u. hronometer. nn. see. !6 42 i6 56 }8 12 J9 42 }0 54 M 58 33 17 34 37 36 11 37 20 Latitude. Deg. min. sec 36 53 40 RIO VIRGEN. ides of Polaris. chronometer. n. sec. 6 36 7 38 9 49 r,6 3 06 4 39 5 49 T 08 8 25 10 44 Latitude. 519 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT AT SANTA CLARA FORK OF THE RIO VIRGEN. Determination of longihtde, Mny 11, \^\\~— altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. 57 10 56 27 56 06 ■tec. 15 40 55 h. min. sec. 3 08 24.5 10 12.2 11 02.0 RESULT OF CALCULATION. ENCAMPMENT AT VEGAS DE SANTA CLARA. Determination of longitude. May 12, 1S44 — altitudes of the sun- OBSERVATIONS. FIRST SERIES. i SGCOXD SERIES. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. 1 1 1 Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Deg, min. sec 55 20 45 55 05 10 54 51 25 54 38 20 54 24 50 h. 3 min. sec. 13 11.0 13 .50.2 1 14 24.8 i 14 57.4 , 15 29.4 ! 1 Deg. min. .. 711 in. .sec. 1 26 18.3 ..— . . .. , ^ ■ des of Pol art', 523 C 174 ] ENCAMPMENT ON THE FIRST STREAM OF UTArt LAKE. mitrmination of latitude, May 24, IS44 — Spica Virginia in the me- ridian. OBSERVATIONS. li ■■. ■ Double altitudes of Spies I Virginia. of chronometer. in. sec. WM lime 6 \^ 1 4 13 t Deg. min. . 79 34 79 37 ( 79 39 79 42 79 44 79 45 79 47 79 49 79 50 79 52 79 53 79 54 79 54 79 54 79 55 79 55 79 54 79 54 79 53 79 52 79 51 lec 10 )0 10 95 10 50 15 30 50 30 30 15 30 25 10 05 40 10 15 05 00 A. 7 min. 20 21 32 24 26 26 27 28 SO 32 88 34 3fi 36 38 89 40 42 43 44 46 sec. 38 51 54 14 23 26 20 12 22 07 26 36 49 69 12 41 64 Ul 15 20 01 li ' Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 39 22 19 'udes ofo. Lyrm. Index error = -j- 5 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. FD SERIES. i Time of chronometer. || True altitude. Apparent time of transit • Latitude. h. min. sdo. 8 01 08.5 02 05.0 02 58.4 1 Deg. min, sec. 39 56 21 h. min. sec. \ 7 38 27 ! Deg. 39 miu, sec. 42 37 J Longitude. A* , m ; , M [ 174 ] 5-24 ENCAMPMENT ON THE FIRST STREAM OF UTAH LAKE, /)rffr")i'na/itni nj hifiht(h. May 24, ISH — altitudes of Polar in. oli^iEUVATlONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Dcs;. min. sue. h. min. ««c. 76 24 40 1 50 41 7fi 25 00 53 07 76 24 25 53 51 7fi 25 00 54 59 76 25 15 57 03 Index error =^ -\- b sec. KESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Deg. min. sec. 38 11 14 Mean time. fi. min. sec. 9 20 54 Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 39 41 52 Mean latitude 39 deg. 42 min. 15 sec. Determination of longitude. May 24, 1844 — altitudes of o, Lyrae. OBSERVATIONS. FinsT .SEHIES. SECOND SEUIES. Double altitudes of a LyrsD. Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of u Lyrte. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. 70 08 25 70 31 10 70 49 50 h, min. sec. 8 00 54.4 01 5S.0 02 50.7 Deg. min. sec. 71 10 00 71 30 35 71 49 45 k. min. sec. 8 03 48.5 04 47.0 05 41.2 DouMe .lititl .1 Lyrsn !)■■«•■ min. h'i 01 .'7 26 ■i7 47 5H 03 53 10 '•'i 'l.Smt ''M ^'^'f^K If'S Mean time. s-a^B H h. min. sec. HI^H 9 30 31 Tlierinomctcr 40°. Index error = 4-5 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. 'AH liAKE. 525 [ L71 ] ENCAMPMENT ON A lUGHT-HAND UKANl^H OF SPANISH FORK Delerminafion of lons^itude, Mi.y L'7, 1S'11 — altitxidea of y\ Lyrp OiiSERVATlONS. FinST SF.UIKH. ehronometci. •9 "liri. no 50 45 00 '10 00 15 ft. 7 '■■nil. 12 13 14 15 15 sec ■ •26.5 •Z7.4: 14.0 00.0 55.0 Index error ^ -|- 5 see. KKSULT OF CAJ.Cl.'LA'llON. tildes of o Lyrae. M Mean time 1 Retard. 1 1 A. .'////*. 1 2'J 41.6 Longitude- /(. 111171. S 41 .sec 40 ifPl'/M lilty f >jni / ,r tniit ,, //^ /If/ii/ 9 7 l.C54d /■'i i- ^r '»/y'J>i //j** >y>/''>«yi'/i/ii !D SEllIES. Time of chronometer. . OBSERVATION.S. Double altitudes of Spica Virginis. h. min. sec. 8 03 48.5 04 47.0 05 41.2 Der^. min. ■■iec. 79 10 10 ■59 10 10 79 10 15 79 10 35 79 09 50 79 119 S5 Time of chronometer. h. tit In. .iec. 7 20 34 32 06 33 20 24 49 26 48 28 04 Index error = -f- ^> '6'. RESULT OF CALCULAirON. True altitude. Apparent time of transit. Latitude. Heg. iiUn. sec. 39 34 06 h. min. .«er. 7 24 06 h. min. 40 04 ■iec 52 -«J [ 174 ] 526 ENCAMPMENT ON A RIGHT-HAND BRANCH OF SPANISH FORK. Determinatio)i of latitude. May 27, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. De^. min. sec. 77 09 15 77 08 40 77 08 50 77 09 10 77 09 20 Thermometer 40". Index error = -f- 5 sec. : . 'iMe a M L ,'/i'. m iA 2 l4 5 t'5 2 RESULT OF CALCULATION • True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Dfg. min. sec. 38 33 21 h. min. sec 9 07 47 Dcg. min. sec. 40 04 03 M Mean latitude 40 deg. 4 min. 27 sec. ENCAMPMENT AT THE HEAD OF SPANISH FORK. Detfrmi nation of latitade, May 2S, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Deir. min. sec. V6 50 10 76 50 00 76 .50 10 76 49 50 76 50 00 76 50 00 76 49 50 76 50 20 76 50 20 76 ."iO 10 Time of chronometer. h. min. sec. 7 08 30 09 40 10 51 12 27 13 45 15 10 17 26 19 01 20 10 21 04 Index error ■= -f- 8 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. True altitude Latitude. De^. min. ifc. 39 55 11 SPANISH FORK. tudes of Polaris. 527 C 174 ] ENCAMPMENT AT THE HEAT) Of SPANISH FOT?K. Dblcrmi)uttiou of lny}<^itude, May 28, 1844 — -'ftituden nfo. Lyru. OBSERVATIONS. I 1 FIBST BEniES. IciMe altitudes of ' Time of chronometer. .1 Lyrir. HKCOSl) « 'lEKIE'l. ■ 31 cnronomeier. ^h Double altitudes of Lyi!!'. Time of chronometer. min. sec. ^| 35 38 ■ 36 58 ■ 38 06 ■ 39 20 ■ 40 25 ■ Pfir. min. sec. fii 24 50 64 59 30 M 20 00 //. min. s(c. 7 24 42.4 26 19.4 27 18.5 Deg. min. src. 65 39 30 65 59 20 66 18 45 h. min. sec. 7 28 16.0 29 13.0 30 IO.O Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 40 04 n:) SISH rORK. llitude.s of Polaris. 16 of chronometer. mm. sec. 08 30 09 40 10 51 12 27 13 45 15 10 17 26 19 01 20 10 21 04 Latitude. Deg. min. »«• 39 55 11 Thermtinicter 42°. Index error = -*- 8 sec. RESULT OF C..»LCULAT10N. Mean time. Retard. Longitude. *;. min. sec. 8 68 34 /;. ntin. sec. 1 30 44.4 ENCAMPMENT AT THE HEAD OF UINTAH RIVER. JJelerminatiou uf lutHude, May 29, 1844 — altitinks of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Dei:. min. ace. 77 00 10 77 00 00 77 00 10 77 00 00 77 00 35 77 00 00 77 00 30 77 00 20 77 00 50 77 00 35 mm. sec. 09 56 12 17 14 03 15 16 17 21 18 51 20 17 22 09 23 40 25 13 Thermometer 46°. Index error == + 5 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 38 28 59 //. min. sec. 8 50 24 Deg. min. 4u 00 ate, 07 i*. I i i ■" I iRiil [ 174 j 528 KNUAMPMKNT AT I'lIK UlAD OF njNTAII fMVKlf Detenninitlian. nf foii,qilim>, May '2M, \^\\ --nlUludcN "/ i Lyr,p„ OH'^KHVATION!*. rillH I' Ml.Ult.:^. hKCUNII nl'.lllfH. Double nltittidcs iif 1 Lyru'. Dep. viin. sir. n? .vi ir. n? 5fi no 58 4:{ 10 'rime uf chronoiiietor 1 Douldc iiltilndcM of Tillll^ nlchrnnomcffr I ,1 hyrm. , h. in' II. fcc. 1 />e/f. "I'll. A'c. t) 58 44.0 f)!) o4.5 7 o:J la.O fi!i (»4 1 r. r.'j 41 Id K(t Of) IT) //. Ill in. ncc 7 oa 1 1 6 Oft 10. Of) 12,0 Index error ■_•- + ^' ^^'^' ■ HESULT 1)1' CALCI'I-ATro.N. Wi'fin tin ic. h mill. .-ICC. 8 35 02 Longitude. ENCAMPMKNT <)\ DlfCHEisNE I'oUK Deter>niti()liu7i. of latil ude, Mutj 30, 1S44 — ui'/ifu/k.s of Spkn t^irgvns,\ near the mendian. OBSERVATIONb. Double altitudes of Spiea Virgiiiis. Def^. mill. sec. 78 90 30 78 34 45 Time of chronometer- /*. mill. aer. 7 16 44 18 06 Index error = _j_ 3 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. True altitude. Apparent time of transit. Deg. min. sec- 39 20 It fi. min. Iter. 7 08 52 Latitude. Dei(, min. fee 40 18 47 [ 174] IlIVliR iidC'S 11/ rt Lyr.f,. 52.9 ENCAMPMENT ON UHCIIKSNE FORK Determination of lon'^itnde, May 30, 181 1 — uHiltules of a. Lyrx OIlSHnVATlONS. II nr.KU .-4. Tiiao of chronompffr of Spied nrgt>m, , chronometer. mm. ate. 16 44 18 06 llllHT ! U.ll T Iko. T)iiut>l SISCIINII (■ alliliiilfs of t l«».IIIK>< TiiMo of cliro Ootililc ultitudi's III" inic of clirotionu'li-r. lonieter 1 liyriu. ■ I.yrx. Deg. tniu. .see. //. mill. .\CC. ih^. luin. si,\ /(. min. sec. r,7 33 45 7 2v; 32.0 (i'J 37 50 7 28 27.0 Hrt on 10 23 55.5 ;o 00 00 2!) 31.0 (i8 :<5 35 35 38.6 ro •i\ 50 30 4S,0 68 55 10 ','« •J 5.0 7fJ A'i 00 31 31.2 6'.) 1 1 •JO •J? I'J.I 70 58 40 33 19.3 Index error = 4- ^ sor HESULT OK CALCULATION. Mean time. A. niin. mc. 9 00 57 Retard h. min. see. I 33 07.'.) liOnc;itude, Iinniersion ofb Scorjni. Ob8er\od tuni-. mm. sec. 00 39 Longitude. Deg. min. sec. 112 18 30 |i.L:, !l !i M Dei(. mi /I. sec 40 18 47 34 ^f 1 ! I I 1 C 1' i ] 530 ENCAMPMENT ON Dl'CHEWNE FORK. Determinnfion of latitude, May 30, 18 II — ultiludn of Polaris. OBSEHVATIONiS. DouIiIp n titudcti of PoIoHf — — ^ Time of chronometer. fj HL'fl />c. »iin. .•fC. fi. /iiln. see. n 77 ■11 (1(1 7 36 32 ^^H 7V 40 .^o 37 58 H 77 40 25 39 27 ^1 77 41 1.', 41 80 ^1 77 40 .'.0 42 39 ^1 77 41 30 44 Oft u 77 n 50 45 30 ^1 77 42 15 46 37 ^1 77 41 40 47 48 ^1 77 42 20 49 01 I Thermometer 48*. H Index error '^ — ^- fi nee HB'^ULT OF CALCULATION. H 1 True altiluJe. Mrun time. Latitude 1 Def{. iitln. itC. fi. min. nee. Leg min. 1 sec. !i 1 .48 49 32 '.) It) 14 ! 40 18 5H 1 Tru Mean latitude 40 de^. 18 min. 58 sec. AT UlN'lAH FORT. Determination of iongitnde, June 3, 1844 — altitxides of o. Lyrx. Deg. 38 x/nrtfun V J 11 1 u w ri . i FIRST i SEHTIS. 1 SfCOND SERIES. f Double aititudee ct a Lyra-. Time of chronometer. '■ Double a altitudes of Lyra-. Time of chronomA Deg. mm. sec. 65 58 30 66 20 30 66 41 10 67 00 20 67 15 10 It. min, aec. 6 57 55.0 1 59 00.0 59 59.6 7 00 54.5 01 37.6 '; Deg. 67 67 68 08 68 min. sec. 31 40 49 00 07 25 24 15 52 20 //. min, sec. ': 7 02 st;.^; 03 u.off; 04 os.af,; 04 56.4|, 06 18.(1: Index error ^^ -f. 6 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. K tiuii'n of Polaris. { chronometef. min. «c. 36 32 ;n .'•)8 3U 'Zl 41 ao 4v; 39 •14 Oft ■15 :iO 4ti 37 47 48 49 01 531 [ 174 ] AT IMNTAH FORT. Deterrninfition ({f latitude, Jxine 3, 1844 — altitudes qf Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitude* of PoUriii. Latitude. Dtg. min. .lee. n 56 20 n 65 30 77 56 46 77 66 40 77 65 46 77 66 20 77 56 20 77 65 50 77 5C 10 77 66 00 Time of chronoinpt«r. h. min. lee. 7 09 58 11 17 12 27 13 43 14 46 15 49 16 63 17 57 18 54 19 47 lkf(. min. sec. 40 18 5H Uitxides of a- Lyne. ■COND 'iEniES. 'rhcrrnomctor 68°. Index error =: -f- 6 aec> RESULT OF CALCULATION. of Time of chfonorne*. cc. 1)0 25 15 JO mm. ffc. m 02 2(1.0'. .1 03 14.0^ 1 04 Ofl.!^ 1 04 56.4' 1 06 IH.ff f . True altitude. Mean time. Latitude, Deg. min. nee. 38 56 44 h. min. sec. 8 62 14 Deg. min. 40 27 see. 45 k' ) ; 1 Longitude. [ 174 ] 532 AT UINTAH FORT. Determination nf Iniii^itudc Jane \, 1S44 — altitudes nf the sun OBSERVATIONS. if 'B ^i 1^ 1 « FIRST HEUIES. SKCONll SKHIKS Double altitudes of the Time of cluonometer. Doublo altittidrs nf thf Time .>f clironomc^^rj sun's lower limb. ' | sun's lover liiiib. Defir. 7)1 in. ser 52 18 55 52 34 .35 52 46 00 59 59 35 53 16 45 i/iiii. x.r. •25 39 •26 20.3 •26 53..'-) •27 27.0 28 U 6 Drir. nun. .V/'C. 53 30 00 53 46 00 ft'.i 57 25 54 15 .'■'0 51 •29 30 h. lain. sec 5 •2i>t 18,5 29 30 4 30 01. 30 48 5 31 •25 -5 Index error = -J- 5 .sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time A. 7 min. 05 sec 43 Retard. Longitude. mm. 37 >«• 116 Immersion of Jujiiler'' s first satellite. Observed time. ■ 2 Mean time. tntn. see. 34 14.2 a.m. Longitude. h. min. sec 57 05.5 a. m. Deg. min. see. 109 .'56 ii 1' '1 tur/es of the si/n l)MI SKHIKf tho Tunc iif ilironoitu't.'t. /{. lutn- sec 5 28 18.5 29 MA 30 01,0 •30 48 5 :il 25 ■] 533 C 174] ENCAMPMENT ON ASHLEY'S FORK. Determination of longitude, June 5, 1844 — altitudes ofo. Lyrx. OBSERVATIONS. rriiST SEiiiES. I fcuble altitudes of a Lyne. \k<'- mill. 67 67 57 68 68 09 31 49 10 29 nee. 30 30 40 36 l.T Time of chronometer. h. 6 nun. 51 52 53 54 55 see. 19 21.6 15.7 1.5.2 09.0 SECOND SERIES. Double altituiles of Time of chronometer. u Lyrtc. Deg. min. sec. k. min. sec. 69 49 30 6 58 59.7 70 09 30 59 58.2 70 27 10 7 00 48.4 70 46 45 01 44.7 71 07 05 02 42.0 Index error = -|- 5 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. A. 8 mm. sec. 36 17 Retard. h. min. sec. 1 39 14.0 Longitude. I ,/* Deg. min. sec. 109 5S 4J Determination of latitude, June 5, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Deg. mm. sec. 77 58 40 77 58 50 77 58 30 77 59 30 77 59 50 78 00 00 78 00 15 7S 00 15 78 00 30 78 00 10 Time of chronometer. k. min 7 07 08 09 11 13 14 16 17 18 19 Thermoineter 60". Index error = -|- 5 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Deg. min. s'c. m 5!S 42 Mean tiiae. k. min. sec. 8 52 57 sec. 00 18 35 26 10 34 03 08 59 56 Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 40 28 07 m'-m 7 «'" M i. J I I 174 ] 534 ENCAMPM3NT ON ASHLEY'S FORK. Determination of longitude, June 6, 1844 — altitudes of Arcturus. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Arcturus. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. k. min. sec 51 31 50 20 37.0 a. m. 51 09 50 21 34.5 50 50 40 22 25.0 50 34 00 23 08.5 fiO 15 15 23 57.7 Thermometer 46°. ladex error = + 8 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Retard. 1 Longitude. h. min. s(c. 2 01 43 a. m. h. min. sec. 1 39 22.4 Immersion of Jupiter'' s second satellite. Observed time. Mean time. Longitude- | A. min. sec. 38 39 a. m. h. min. sec 2 18 02 a. m. Deg. min. sec I 109 27 07 1 ■• 1 Dis;. mi 70 56 71 17 71 35 71 55 78 17 des of t.'ircturus. Longitude. 535 [ 174] ENCAMPMENT AT BROWN'S HOLE, ON GREEN RIVER, Detennitialion of lovgitiule, June 7, 1844 — aUitudea of a. Lyras. OBSERVATIONS. ^H FIRST 4EnrG». SECOND i SERIES. chronometer. ^M Double altitudes of ^M a Lyrn>. Time of chronometer. 1 i Double altitudes of a LyrsB. Time of chronometer. in. sec ,0 37.0 a. m. !1 34.6 52 25.0 i3 08.5 J3 57.7 ^1 Dts;. min. .^ec. ■ 70 56 20 ■ 71 17 20 ■ 71 35 30 ■ 71 55 to ■ 72 17 40 h. min. sec. 6 50 21.0 51 23.0 52 14.0 53 10.0 54 14 De^. min. sec. 76 18 15 76 41 35 76 59 00 77 16 40 77 37 00 h. min. sec 7 05 42.5 06 46.5 07 36.0 08 25.0 09 27.0 Index error = + 8 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION Mean time. ReUrd. h. min. sec- 8 42 27 mri. 42 •sec. 31.1 Longitude. j;^^ ' ... ' f ate. Longitude. Deg. min. 109 27 sec 07 Determina/ion of latitude, June 7, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. .sec. 78 38 50 7 13 57 78 38 45 15 19 78 38 30 17 06 78 39 15 18 26 78 39 10 19 99 78 40 25 21 23 78 40 05 22 36 True altitude. Deg. mi7i. .sec. 39 19 31 Thermometer 61°, Index error = -^- 8 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Latitude. h. 9 min. sec. 00 56 Deg. 7tiin. sec. 40 46 27 ,■(•) !J C 174 ] 536 E^ ^1 ENCAMPMENT AT liROWN'S HOLE, ON GREEN RIVER. Determination of longitude, June S, 1844 — altitudes of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. nnsT si;iUE«. i nometer. i .SECOND HERIES. Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chro Double altitudes of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer L'^g. min. fee. 59 50 25 60 06 00 60 19 45 60 33 20 60 48 40 h. tnin. 5 39 40 40 4i 42 .fee- 34.0 16.5 53.3 27 07.3 i De^. min, sec. 61 01 35 61 18 55 61 33 00 61 46 10 6i 56 55 h. min. sec. 5 42 43.4 43 28.3 44 05.6 44 41.2 45 09.4 Thermometer 89°. Index error = -4- 8 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. Retard. Longitude. h. min. sf. 7 24 58 h. min. sec. 1 42 33.3 ENCAMPMENT ON ELK HEAD RIVER. Determination of lemgitude, June 10, 1844 — altitudes ofo. Lyrse. OBSERVATIONS. FIB ST SETJIF.S. 1 1 SECOND SERIES. 1 Doubl e altitudes of Time of chronometer. Double altitudes of Time of chronometor. a Lyrae. h. min. sec. a Lyr.T. ' Deg. min. stc. Deg. min. sec. h. min. nee. 75 26 15 6 46 44.0 76 56 50 G 50 59.0 75 44 20 47 33.3 77 14 00 51 48 76 06 10 48 .35 77 35 00 52 48.4 76 21 50 49 20.2 77 52 1 5 53 36 4 76 37 40 50 05.0 78 09 50 54 26.0 Index error = + 4 sec. RESULT OF C ALCULATION. Mean time. Reta rd. Longitude. h. min sec. h. min AfC 8 37 18 1 46 49 a :j» Correct this Ic uigitudc on maj >. 537 [ 174 ] IN RIVER. ides of the sun. 1) SERIES. le Time of chronometer. A. 7nin. sec. 5 42 43.4 43 28.3 44 05.6 44 41.2 45 09.4 Longitude. R. iudes of a. Lyras, ID SF.niES. Time of chronometer. h. min. sec. 6 50 59.0 51 48 52 48.4 53 36 4 54 26.0 Longitude. I']NCAMPMENT ON ELK HEAD RIVER. DetertniiKttioii of latittide, Jane 10, 1S4 4 — allituda of Polaris. OnSEIlVATIONS. Double altitudi's of Polaris. Time of clironometer. Def:. min. sec. h. min. .sec 79 02 30 57 57 79 02 45 59 24 79 03 40 7 00 29 79 03 00 01 41 79 04 10 03 46 79 04 20 04 68 79 04 30 06 31 79 04 50 08 06 79 05 35 09 18 79 05 30 10 35 Thermometer 67°. Index error .r^ + 4 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 39 30 53 ft. min. sec. 8 50 59 • Deg. min. sec. 40 58 37 dj^Correct this latitude on map. SECOND ENCAMPMENT ON ELK HEAD RIVER. Determination of latitude, June 11, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec. 79 14 40 7 19 47 79 15 40 22 14 79 16 25 24 01 79 16 40 26 19 79 17 30 28 02 79 18 00 29 07 Index error = -|- 6 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 39 37 ' 7 h. min. sec. 9 14 42 Deg. min. sec, 41 01 11 J C 174 ] 538 SECOND ENCAMPMENT ON ELK HEAD RIVER. Determination of longitude, June 11, 1844 — altitude.s of a. Cygni. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of u Cygui. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. 57 21 40 57 51 40 58 13 00 h. min. 7 32 34 35 sec. 31.0 08.0 17.5 Bad observations. Thermometer 53". Index error = -j- 6 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Retard. h. 9 mm. 23 sec. 46 h. min. 1 49 sec- 47.1 Longitude. ENCa.MPMENT in the VALLEY OF THE NORTH FORK OF THE PLATTE, AT THE FOOT OF THE MOUNTAINS. Determination a/ latitude, June 13, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Deg. min. sec 79 56 40 79 57 40 79 58 10 79 59 00 79 59 15 79 59 40 80 00 35 80 00 15 80 01 15 80 01 20 Time of chronometer. h. mm. sec. 7 31 46 38 OS 34 16 36 08 37 26 38 81 40 06 41 12 42 18 43 25 Index error = -J- 10 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Latitude. H True altitude. ■ Met h. min. sec. 9 29 10 Deg. min. sec. 41 18 48 Deg. min. i-ec. 39 58 36 539 [ >74 ] so/a Gygni. ■ nometei sec. 31.0 08.0 17.5 OF THE PLA.TTE, in. sec. I 46 3 02 4 16 6 08 17 25 18 31 ,0 06 :1 12 12 18 :3 26 )e«-. min. sec. 1 13 48 E.NGAMPMEKT IN THE VALLEY OF THE NORTH FORK OF THE PLATTE, AT THE FOOT OF THE MOUNTAINS. Determination of longitude, June 13, 1844 — altitudes of a. Jiquilae. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of < I Aquilffi. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec. 43 33 50 7 47 56.0 44 09 40 49 33.6 44 37 40 50 49.5 Index error = -|- 10 8ec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. — Retard. Longitude. h. min. sec. 9 40 47 h. min. sec. 1 51 21.0 Determination of longitude, June 13, 1844 — OBSERVATIONS. altitudes of a Cygni. Double altitudes of Cygni. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. 68 02 68 26 68 47 sec. 40 00 40 h 7 min. 55 56 57 sec. 22.0 33.0 40.7 Thermometer 54°. Index error = •+• 10 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Retard. Longitude, A. min. si'C- 9 47 .53 A. min. sec. I 51 21.1 V [ 174 ] 540 ENCAMPMENT IN THE SAME VALLEY AS ON THE I3th, BUT HIGHER. Detennination of latitude, J loie 14, 1S44 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudis of Polaris. Tire e of chr min. onoinctcr. Deg. in in. sec. li. sec. 79 3fi 25 7 28 28 79 37 2.5 29 23 79 38 00 30 21 79 37 30 31 26 79 38 80 32 21 79 39 30 33 16 Index error = + 7 sec. r.EStlLT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Deg. min. sec. 39 47 49 Mean time. fi. 9 mm. 23 sec. 46 Latitude. Deg. 41 mm. 68 sec. 16 Deter initial ion of longitude, June 14, 1844 — altitudes of a Cygni. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of a Cygni. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h, mill. sec. 63 30 50 7 36 05.0 63 51 30 37 10.0 63 08 40 38 07.0 63 26 50 39 03.0 63 43 30 39 56.0 65 01 00 40 51.0 Thermometer 56°. Index error = -|- 7 see. Mean time. RESULT OF CALCULATION. h. 9 min. 31 sec. 26 Retard. h. min. 1 52 .tec. 54.1 Longitude. , UUT HIGHER. cs of Polar (S. Iironomcter. 541 C I''4 ] ENCAMPMENT AT NEW PARK Detenninulion of latitude, June LI, l,si4 — nltiludeH oj Polaris. OUSF.HVATIONS. Doul>lf altitudes of PoIarJH. Dor. miri. sir 70 03 10 79 03 30 79 04 00 79 03 50 79 05 00 79 05 :$0 79 05 45 79 06 00 79 00 40 79 07 •i5 Tim- •irrhroiionifter. Index error -- -f- 7 ser. KESULT OF CALCt;LATION. A . >ii in iCC 7 14 37 ir. If. 17 34 18 48 20 •2l) 'il 35 •iS 00 •24 05 25 18 26 37 leg. min. sec. 41 68 16 des of a Cygnl ironometer. True altitude. Deii. mi/t. .'jir. 39 31 25 Mean time. h. 9 Villi. 15 sec. 18 Latitude. Df:^. mill. sec. 40 52 44 Determination of longit ude, June 15, 1844 — altitudes of a. Cygni- OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of a Cygni. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. see. h. min. •sec. 63 08 50 ... 4 30 25.0 63 32 45 31 42.0 63 50 00 32 36.0 64 05 10 33 24.2 64 21 30 34 15.0 Thcnnometer 44*. Index error = 4-7 sec RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Retard. h. 9 mm. sec. 26 51 A. min. sec. 1 54 22.6 Longitude. !|«flli^ i! * [ 174 ] 542 SECOND ENCAMPMENT AT NEW PARK. Determination of latitude, June Ifi, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polarw. Tin jp of chrc rnin . •nometer. Deg. Him. sec. A. sec. 78 30 00 7 27 24 78 30 10 28 28 78 30 50 29 51 78 31 30 30 53 78 31 30 31 55 78 32 30 33 00 78 33 10 33 '^S 78 33 30 34 51 78 33 30 3G 04 78 34 20 37 36 Index error =^ -f- ^0 sec. KESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitud 0. Mean time, Latitude. Beg. min. str. 3d 14 56 Heg. min. sec 40 33 2ti Determination of longitude, June 16, 1844 — altitudes of a. Cygni. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of a Cygni. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. fee. 69 34 40 7 48 20.0 69 53 25 49 17.5 70 16 25 50 29.3 70 34 30 51 24.6 70 57 00 52 35.0 ', 7 RESULT OF CALCULATION. j Mean time. Retard. Longitude. fi. min. sec. 9 44 19 h. min. sec. 1 53 64.1 K. ties of Polaris. chronometer. nvi. see 27 24 28 28 29 51 30 53 31 55 33 00 33 ^8 34 51 36 04 37 35 Latitude. Deg. min. ate- 40 33 2!i iiudes of a Cygni. 1 f chronometer. min. sec. 48 20.0 49 17.5 50 29.3 51 24.6 52 35.0 Longitude. 543 [ 174 ] SECOND ENCAMPMENT AT NEW PARK. Determination of Iongiiu(ie,Jnne 16, 1844 — ultihaJe of a Lyrse. OfiSiERVATION. Double altitude of u Lyrse. Time of chrononiete; Deg. min. see. Ill 10 10 h. min. «rc. 7 56 11.5 Thermometer 38*". Index error — -^ S sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. h. min. fitc, 9 49 07 ENCAMPMENT ON OLD PARK, AT THE FORK OF fiRAND RIVER. Determination of latitude, June 19, 1S44 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polari-s. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec. 77 26 15 7 33 28 77 27 00 34 50 77 27 00 35 54 77 28 00 36 54 77 28 40 .•^8 28 77 29 20 39 38 77 29 10 40 38 77 30 25 41 47 77 30 20 i■^ 06 77 31 20 44 14 Index error =• + 5 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 38 43 13 k. min. sec- 9 33 51 Deg. min. sec. 39 67 26 'K : Aii'i w.\. r 171 1 ■. -i 511 ENCAMPMKNT ON OI.I) IMHK, AT TirElFOKK OFJCillAND RfVRP Determination nj limi^iluUt', -fuHf IfJ, lH\\—(i//itniies oj <* Jf/nilr olls^;n^'A^I()N^. Ml ai tiiic fl. Illl'l. xc. w 47 ■15 Index error ^ + •'> !«r. HKSUI.T Ol' OAI.Ct'LATION. Ki'tunl. /■/. iiiin. .-"'. I 54 .'>H. t liOlll^itUilc >ll' Ml 1 IIU ■«. ) ■»i.rii,> II t I.I! II <• Uoiihl .' hIimu I... , it 'I'lni" •> ■.•!,-. '.(imi'tiT. D'MiMt iillit IllfM .it' Till! ,> •t'clirOliiiliifVr 1 ,^. _ 1 A'liiilf' ■• \i|iiil 11' . Doiihle 1 — 1 n />.'-. iiiin. .wr. /(. itiiii. ; i C. rir'^r. mill nr. /' III in. . 4 M »>.) . /)^iy. 5.S 56 54 :'-() :^0 l.s 55. « 50 .IS 45 54 ri t) t 50 110 (10 ll» 5S.5 y, (Ml ■n> 55 21) ) f.ft •21 50 rii 1 1.7 57 :»7 50 57 01 i f>r> H no .■>'J il')(l 57 1 57 .11) .n 04 '1 ^«, ■— . . . 00 I Th.Mino.'iitan 48°. > Is ' : 'i; E< .11 bk ENCAMPMENT AT rUK ENTI{ANOE OK UAVOU SAI.ADE, lIEAi> OF F'lN TAINE-t^CNUOITl' ' HOI'TH FORK Ol' I'HE IM-ATTF Deterniinntlon of latiludc, June. 22, ISA \—(il/ihti/es oj Po/aru OHSEHVATlONs. Double altitudes of Polaris Der. I'll II. sa" 76 15 •20 76 15 50 7« 16 30 76 Ifi 45 76 16 40 76 17 35 76 18 10 76 18 50 76 19 40 76 19 50 Time of cliiimoinclcr. Ii. mill. 5Pr. 7 35 m 36 39 87 48 38 51 29 58 31 03 38 OS 38 18 34 01 34 47 Index error = -|- 10 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. DefT. min. sec 38 07 36 A. miti. tee- 9 27 31 Latitude. Deg. min. kc. 39 20 34 37 JIIANT) RrVF.R II 41. IM I '. Tiiii" nl' clirnhii! A, mill. .•'■'■ r fi;) 'I!) ■ 55 it) I 57 1)1 I liOni^itU'l'' \l)r„ llRAi* OK F'lN IM-AT n Indes oy Poiari). __ )t clironomctcr. fUl'/l- ^er. 35 ot» 36 31> 27 4S 2« 51 29 5(* 31 03 32 05 33 13 34 01 34 47 Latitude. Deg. "*'"■ »''-■ 39 20 34 515 [ 174 ] ENfAMPMRNt Al*^^ 'RNTRANOR OP nAVnTT flAT.AnK. HEM) OF FON- TAlNi: tilil UOI 11 ' SOUTH lOKK OF TIIK I'LVITIi > Delcrminntidn of longtftii/c, June 22, 184 1 —nllHiufof ofa %lquilx. OHSKRVATIONS. riHHT icniRii. Double nltitiidoa of a Aiiuilm Ih'ir. miu. aec. fir) 30 20 55 55 40 56 15 00 r>6 33 40 r.0 53 00 Time of clirouonictor. mm. 37 38 33 30 40 tec. 00.5 05. « 5H.0 40.7 35.5 RRC051) scaixi. DouMf iiliiiiulcH of a Ai|llil(U. 57 67 57 5S .')8 mm, II 31 51 10 30 3.'> 35 10 00 30 A. mi'n. srr. 7 41 80.3 43 20.0 43 13.8 44 03.0 45 12.4 . Mean time. Thormometcr 38*. Index error .» -^^ 10 nee. KKSUl/r OV CALCULATION. Refaril. A. mill, tec, 9 37 53 I mm. 50 see, 48.7 Longituile. ENCAMPMENT ON A SMALL AFFLUENT TO THE ARKANSAS. Delermination of laliliiile, June 2G, 1814 — (iltiludes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. . Time of chronometer. Dtn. min. sec. 74 40 16 74 41 10 74 42 40 74 43 20 74 43 30 74 44 00 74 44 10 74 44 45 74 45 20 74 45 60 h. min. sec. 6 37 29 39 48 41 03 42 24 43 16 44 SO 4b 29 46 56 47 58 49 07 Index error »" + 7 sec RESULT OF CALCULATION r. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. tee. 37 20 34 h. min. tee. 8 45 08 Deg. min. tee. 38 39 22 i, f ::;i M h\ ■I i 35 ■W' ^ ; ! *'t. [ 1T4 ] 546 ENCAMPMENT ON A SMALL AFFLUENT TO THE ARKANSAS. Determination of longitude, June %^, 1844 — altitudes of a Cygni, OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of aCy gni. • Time of chronometer. Deg. 60 66 67 67 mitt. 13 59 18 38 see. 45 10 20 50 k. 6 7 min. sec. 57 33.5 59 51.6 00 51.0 01 63.4 i 1 Theruioraeter 38°. Index error = 4-7 sec. SULT OK CALCULATION. ' Mean time. Retard. Longitude. -^<- A. min. fee. 9 01 24 h. 2 min. sec. 01 21.6 ENCAMPMENT ON A LARGER AFFLUENT TO THE ARKANSAS. Determination o/ latitude, June 28, 1844 — altitudes o/ Polaris. OBSEKVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris Deg. min, 74 28 74 29 74 29 74 29 74 74 74 74 74 74 30 31 32 32 34 34 Index error RESULT OP CALCULATI ON True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. nee. 37 14 34 h. min. .sec. 9 18 05 Dej. min. sec. 38 23 48 547 B ARKANSAS. udes qfa Cy^ni. chronometer. mm. sec. 57 33.5 59 51.6 00 51.0 01 53.4 Longitude. HE ARKANSAS. 'tudes of Polaris, )f chronometer. mm. sec. 08 48 10 26 11 32 13 00 14 23 16 23 17 38 18 61 20 24 21 33 Latitude. Jhf. min. ace, 38 23 48 C 174- J BNOAMPMBNT ON A LAROBR AFFLUENT TO THE \RKANSAS. Determination of longitude, June 28, 1844 — altitudes of a Jiquilx. OBSERVATIONS. FIRST SEH1E8. 1 SRCONn SF.R'ES. Double altitudes of Time of chronometer. Double altitude** of Time of chronometer. a AquiliB. a Aquilse. Deg. min, sec. h, min. sec. 1 Dee:- "tin. sec. //. mhi. ace. 62 28 30 7 24 39.5 1 i 64 49 10 7 30 60.0 63 01 20 26 04.3 i 65 28 25 32 36.6 63 23 40 27 01.0 66 00 10 . 33 58.0 63 55 30 28 26.6 66 23 35 •36 01.0 64 33 16 29 41.4 ■ 66 53 00 36 21.8 Thermometer 56°. Index error = -f- 8 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. ENCAMPMENT AT THE JUNCTION OF THE ARKANSAS AND FONTAINEQUI- BOUIT RIVERS. Determination of latitude, June 29, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chroi ft. min. ometer. Deg. min. sec. sec. 74 09 00 S 69 05 74 09 15 60 20 74 10 36 61 23 74 10 20 63 30 74 11 40 63 51 74 11 50 64 56 74 13 00 66 00 74 12 50 67 00 74 13 50 68 00 74 14 00 69 22 Index error = + 10 sec. RBSULT OP CALCULiV.nON. TruealUtttde. Mean time. Latitude, ♦ Dig. mt'ih «M. h. mm. sec. Deg. min. sec. 37 04 37 9 08 49 88 15 23 .. 1 f.' >' C 174] 548" ENCAMPMENT AT THE JUNCTION OF THE ARKANSAS AND FbNTAINE-QUl- BOUIT lilVEKS. Deterniinnlion of longiturle, June 29, 1844 — altitudes of x/iltair. OBSKHVATIONS. FinST 8KRIES. BECORO 8EHIES. Doub lo altitudes of 1 ■ ■ ■■ 1 I'imo ot' chronomcUr. Pout) e altitudes of Time of chronometer. Altdir. - Altair. • Deir. min. nCC. 1 i h. min. sec. . Dfg- min. dfC. h. min. see. 71 38 50 7 -13 11.0 74 12 30 7 50 08.0 72 05 10 44 22.7 74 32 45 6t 03.0 72 26 30 ! 15 21.0 74 53 10 51 56.6 72 52 30 1 46 29.5 75 13 10 52 532 73 16 00 1 47 1 34 5 75 37 45 54 01.0 Index error = + 10 sec. 1 tESULT OF CALCULATION • Mean time Retard. • Longitude. h. 9 win. 53 16 k. 8 1 mill. sec. 04 33.7 - ENCAMPMENT NEAR BENT'S FORT, ON THE ARKANSAS RIVER. Determination of latitude, July 2, 1S44 — altitudis of tolai-is. obseuv'ations. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. ncc. h. min. sec. 73 68 40 7 06 38 73 59 10 08 09 - 73 61 30 10 54 73 62 10 12 05 73 62 50 13 03 73 03 00 13 57 73 64 10 15 05 73 64 30 16 11 73 65 15 17 20 73 65 30 • 1& 25 Index error ^ -\-1 sec RESULT OP CALCULATION. ^ True altitude. Mean time. Latitade. Beg., min. see. 37 eo 07 A. min. see. 9 28 28 Deg. min. ttt, 38 OS oe ■f.. D FbNTAINE-QUI- ',s of Jlltair. BRIEB. Time of chronometer. h. min, see. 7 50 08.0 61 03.0 51 56.6 52 532 54 01.0 Longitude. lNsas river. :s of tolaris. hronometer. in. sec. 6 38 )8 09 LO 54 12 06 13 03 13 57 15 05 16 11 17 20 lb 25 Latitude. Deg. min. tee. 38 OS oe 549 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT NEAR BENT'S FOIIT, ON THE ARKANSAfc RIVER. Deferminaiion of/ongUude, J\dAWNEE VILLAGE. (des of a ^quilse. ihronometer. sec. 52.0 46.0 37.0 37.0 32.0 18.0 Longitude. 553 [ m] ENCAMPMENTiON SMOKY HILL RIVER, BELOW THE PAWNEE VILLAGE. Determination oj laliludt^ July 17, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Doable altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec. 75 39 00 3 34 07 75 40 15 35 26 75 40 10 36 30 75 41 30 38 01 75 42 00 39 17 75 42 40 40 23 RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Dcfi. min. sec. 37 49 13 Mean time. h. min. sec. 8 58 04 Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 38 42 43 FIFTH ENCAMPMENT ON SMOKY HILL RIVER. Determination of longitude, July 19, 1844 — altitudes ofo. Jiquilae, OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of a Aquilee. Deg. min. 73 16 73 74 74 74 75 42 04 24 45 07 sec. 35 45 10 00 10 30 Time of chronometer. h. 3 mm. 09 10 11 12 13 H sec. 43 G 64.0 62.0 48.0 45.5 48.0 RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. Retard. Longitude. h. min. sec. 8 37 04 h. min, sec. * 5 24 4.'). 5 i Immersion of Jupiter's first satellite. Observed time. Mean time. Longitude. h. min. sec. 10 15 36 h. min. sec. 15 40 29 Des;- min. see. 98 17 31 .; • ^ ' . .1 r 1' ' i 1 J ; I 04 ] 5&4 FIPTH ENCAMPMENT ON SMOKY HILL RIVER. 'tkiermination oflalilude, July 19, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. tieg min. sec. h. min, tee. 76 37 40 3 18 00 76 38 20 19 16 75 39 30 -30 36 76 40 00 31 38 76 41 10 23 04 RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Deg, min. see, 37 48 S6 Mean time. h, min. see, 8 46 13 Latitude. Deg. min. He. 38 43 32 ENCAMPMENT THREE MILES SOUTH OF SMOKY HILL FORK. Determination of longitude^ July 21, 1844 — attitudes of a Jiquilse. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of 1 Aquils. Time of ohroAometer. ■ ■ "" Deg. 78 79 79 min. 45 13 36 sec. 10 40 46 h 3 min. 13 14 16 see. 38.0 68.0 02.6 1 RESULT OP CALCULATION. ' 1 1 Mean time Retard. Longitude. 1* h, min. 8 42 sec. 31 h. min, see. 5 27 38.3 I'ly -v. nVER. ides of Polaris. chronometer. mm. •ee. 18 00 W 16 30 36 31 38 23 04 Latitade. Deg. min. aee. 38 43 33 566 [ 174 ] BNCAMPMBNT THREE MILES '90UTH OP SMOKY HILI. fORK. Determinaiion, of iatitucle, Juii/ 21, 1844 — altitudes of Polttris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time of chronometer. De^. mm. sec. 75 14 45 75 16 50 75 18 10 76 18 10 75 20 40 h. 3 mm, 19 20 22 24 26 see. 04 51 26 07 01 RESULT OF CALCULATION. Trae attitude. Deg, min. sec. 37 37 35 Mean time. h. 8 min. see, 60 07 Latitude. Deg. min. aee. 38 28 38 "|?| 11 ■■ V HILL FORK. 'udes of a jiquilse. ' ohroAometer. itn. see. 13 38.0 14 58.0 16 02.5 ENCAMPMENT BETWEEN SMOKY HILL FORK AND THE SANTA Ft ROAD. Determination of latitude, July 22, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Time h. of chronometer. Deg. min. aee. min. aee. 75 61 40 3 65 57 75 63 40 4 00 59 76 56 00 4 03 39 : it ki Longitude. True altitude. Deg. min. sec. 37 55 38 RESULT OP CALCULATION. [ 174 3 656 ENCAMPMENT BETWEEN SMOKY HILL FORK ANn THE SANTA Ft ROAD.| Determination of longitude., July 22, 1844 — aff if tides n/a %^qui/ip.. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of a Aquila* Dtf^. min. ate. 90 20 30 91 37 .50 92 37 20 Time of chronometer. h. min. sec. 3 42 09 45 47 48 48 Mean time. h. 9 mm. sec. 15 03 HESULT OF CALCULATION. Retard. h. min. sec. 5 29 28.2 Longitude. ENCAMPMENT ON THE SANTA FE ROAD. DeterminQtion of longitude, July 2.3, 1844 — altitudes of a tiquilae. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitudes of a Aquilse. Deg. 80 81 81 81 82 82 min. 57 20 39 59 22 40 sec. 25 60 15 45 20 45 Time of chronometer. h. min. sec. 3 08 14.6 09 22.0 10 14.0 \ 11 11.0 12 16.0 13 07.0 RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Retard. Longitude. h. min. see. 8 42 47 h. min. sec. 5 32 02.3 IE SANTA Tt ROAdJ u(fe.i n/a Jiquilx. ' chronometer. in. see. 12 09 15 47 18 48 Longitude. 557 C "'4 ] ENCAMPMENT ON THE SANTA FE ROAD. Determination '•/ /titihiUe, July 23, 1S44 — (iltilucics of Polaris. OnSKUVATIONS. Double altitudea of Polaris. Deg- min. 75 31 75 7S 75 75 75 32 33 3,i 35 36 sec. 25 10 30 35 40 50 Time of clirouometcr. h. min. see 3 IH 43 18 14 20 09 22 02 23 09 24 39 BESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. . Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 37 45 48 /«. min. sec. 8 52 46 Deg. mill. see. 38 33 22 k' DAD. tides of a xiguilx. f chronometer. mm. sec. 08 14.6 09 22.0 10 14.0 11 11.0 12 16.0 13 07.0 Longitude. ENCAMPMENT AT "BLACK JACK," ON THE SANTA FE ROAD. Dclerminatinn of latitude, July 28, 1844 — altitudes of Polaris. OBSEKVATIONS. Double altitudes of Polaris. Deg. van. sec. . 76 27 25 76 29 40 76 31 00 76 32 40 76 33 00 76 33 50 76 35 40 76 36 40 76 37 45 76 38 10 True altitude. Deg. min. sec. 38 15 33 Time of chronometer. nun. .'■6'C. 29 13 31 08 33 03 84 .47 35 56 87 36 40 01 41 06 42 31 43 30 RESULT'OF CALCULATION. Mean time. ti. min. ate. 9 18 30 Latitude. Deg. min. sec 38 46 50 C 1T4] 558 ENCAMPMENT AT "BLACK JACK," ON THE 8ANTA FI^: HOAD. DeUrmiuation qf longitude, July 28, iS-iA-^altiluilcs (\f l 55 31.0 56 39.7 Longitudo. iliides of Jupiter. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS HADB PUBINO THE EXPEDITION OF l843-'44. I 111.; ■* f chronomclcr. ntn. ncc. 50 20.5 51 13.(» 62 17.0 53 12.0 54 09.6 «!■ Longitude. . — _. lite. L Dngitude. .^ Deg. 95 min. 04 tee. 34 • i :fe'i MEl Accordini I (!Pr, constri The resul 1 3)y barometi Barometei iBunten) — Barometer Bunten) — Barometer Range of I Range of t St. Louis 561 [ 174] METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS MADE DURING THE JOURNEY. '■ ' Comparison of barometers. According to three observations made at the observatory of Paris, Lieutenant Fremont's barom- \m, constructed by Bunten, is 0.23 millimetres higher than the standard of the observatory. The result of forty-three comparative observations of both barometers of Mr. Fremont with both I ly barometers, gives the following : Barometer E (English) = E (French) — 0.051 inch =. Fr. (N. Y.) — 0.034 inch » Fr. iBunten) — 0.091 inch. Barometer E (French) = E (English) + O.O.-il inch ^ Fr. (N. Y.) + 0.017 inch -. Fr. Bunten) — 0.040 inch. Barometer Fr. (Bunten) = Fr. (N. Y.) -f 0.057 inch. Observations from May 1 to May 11, 1843. Range of barometer during the time, = 0".4. Range of thermometer, = 60° to 80° Fahrenheit. St. Louis, May 13, 1843. G. ENGELMANN. it 36 V '■ C U4 3 562 Table of meteorological observations. Date. J imc. fef 1843. June 10 11 12 Sunrise Ih. 41m. p. m. Sunset Sunrise Sunrise Noon 13 I Sunrise Ih. p. in. Sunset 14 15 16 18 19 20 21 22 23 Sunrise 5h. 55m. a. ni. Sunset Sunset 17 4h. 47in. a. ni. Noon Sunset Sunrise Sunset Sunrise Noon Sunset Sunrise Noon Sunset Sunri.sc Noon Sunset Sunrise Barom. Mil lint. 7;J3.74 735.43 7.33.95 734 00 728 95 726.02 726.15 726.19 724.96 723. 79 721.67 724.. 34 724.72 725.45 723 42 721.19 720.80 713.33 712.07 715.46 712.53 714.15 714.29 707.07 708.49 703.23 701.15 704.09 703.04 699.7S 698.49 689.19 Thermometer. Attached.! Free Alti- tudes. Cmt. 5.0 22.0 14.8 8.8 12.9 24 9. 15.6 25. 1 22.0 16.3 17.8 Fakr. 39.3 69.0 55.4 48.6 24.0 If) I 16 5 21.1 19.9 16.1 25.7 20.4 31.5 27.0 20.8 31.1 25.3 19.7 28.4 16.0 9.0 22.7 18.6 10.0 15.7 Feef. 900 938 933 933 55.0 I 1,036 75.4 59.5 76.0 67.0 60.0 61.6 1,331 1,267 1,329 1,406 1,406 1,486 Remarks. clear; few cumuli. 74.0 64.0 60.0 71.0 69.0 61.2 1,555 1,401 1,347 1,464 1,505 1,535 78.2 1,911 69.0 1,911 86.0 1,868 80.3 1,903 69.0 1,903 88.0 1,930 77.0 2,1.35 67.0 2,1.35 83.8 2,. 386 61.0 2,262 47.4 2,262 70.8 2,316 65.4 2,. 354 49.0 2,354 69.5 2,822 Clear sky; fog; wind N. NE. wind; clear, and fine cumuli Slight breeze from N W.; clear. Clear; cumuli, slight breeze fr)m SW. Wind S ; clear; clouds in E. ho- rizon Wind S. Wind N Wind N. ; clear; cumuli. Sky covered with .scattered clomi.H, calm; bright sunset. Thunder and rain; rainbow ii. the W. At sunset last night a very vio- lent and continuous rain com- menced, wind NW., with thun- der and lightning, for half an hour, and continued moderate all the night. This morning calm and cloudy. Gentle breeze from N W. ; clear, and cumuli. Wind N. 60° E. ; heavy rains da- ring the fore part of the day, clouds and sun in the afternoon, clouds, with the appearance of j fair weather. Sky covered; a misty rain; wind S. 60° E. Heavy .iijualls of rain during the I morning: wind shifting from 8E. to iv., and settled SE. witlil clouds and sun. Clear, and some cujpuli; slii^htl breeze from N. Clear; .some clouds in W. hori-| zon; wind slight from SE. Wijid NE.; sky nearly overcaatl with cloulds. Clear; breeze moderate from NE. Clear; bi'ceze SE. ('lear; breeze SE. Clear sky; wind SE. Clear; few cumuli; wind S. Clear; clouds in NW.; wmd S. 25° E. Clear and cloudy; wind SE. Clear and clouds; wind SE. Clear and nome clouds; slii[!it| breeze from NW. Sky partially overcast; wind N-j 70° A-'. ; clear in NW. Clear; wind N. 70" W. Clear and calm. Clear; light breeze from S. 60*1 W. Clear, wind S. 20° W. 563 [ 174 ] Table of meteorological observations — Continui \. Remarks. V; tog; wind N. id ; clear, and fine cuir.uU rec7.e from N W.; clear, ■umuli, slight breeze from j ; clear; clouds in E. ho- 5. : clear; few cumuli- V. !V.; clear; cumuli, 'ered with scaltered cloud.s, bright sunset, er and rain; rainbow ti. V. iset last night a very vio- atnd continuous rain com- bed, wind N W . , with thun- and lightning, for half an , and continued moderate he night. This morning 1 and cloudy. e breeze from NW. ; clear, cumuli. 1 N. 60° E. ; heavy rains dn- ' the fore part of the day .dsand sun in the afternooiu An, with the appearance ot weather, •overcd; a misty rain; wind 50° E. , . , y Piiuall-* of rain during the ■ning: wind shifting from to N., and settled SE.witkj ids and sun. I and some cu^juli; 3li','ht •zc from N. „, , ■ I , .some clouds in W. hori-l .; wind slight from SE. d NE.; sky nearly overcast I h cloulds. . ; breeze moderate from IN b- r; breeze SE. ., breeze SE- r sky; wind SE. r; few cumuli; wind ■"^- . r; clouds in NW.;wmd>' X and cloudy; wind 8E. rand clouds; wind BE. ai"l .-.ome clouds; sUij'.ill iezefromNW. " p>\rtially overcast; wmd [>• = A-'.; clear in NW. ,r; wind N. 70° W. ,r and calm. ,■ ; light breeze from &• «>« I ir, wind S. aO" W. Date. 1843. June 25 26 27 128 29 30 July 7 1 Time. Noon Sunset Sunrise Noon (>) Sunrise Noon Sunset Sunrise Sunset Sunrise Ih. 26m. p. m. Sunset Sunrise 3h. 48m, p. m. Sunset Sunrise Noon Sunset Sunrise Noon Sunset Sunrise Noon Sunset Sunrise Ih 53m. p.m. 3h. 53m. p. m. Sunset Sunrise 7h. 53m. a. m. Noon 111. C m. p. m. - 3h. 67ra. p. m. - 5h. 3m. a. m. - Barom. Millim. 686.60 683.00 684.08 681.02 672.33 670.97 667.20 667.75 661.63 659.73 663.94 650.92 650.29 647.75 655.76 657.39 663.74 663.60 662.02 661.75 638.32 654.05 Thermometer. Attached. Free. Cent. 30.1 21.1 15.8 31.9 12.0 29.4 22.9 11.7 2.5.8 16.8 .30.0 23.9 19.3 14.8 26.5 12.6 21.2 15.8 6.6 27.7 21.9 Fuhr. 90.5 70.0 59.5 88.3 53.5 8.3.0 73.0 52.0 77.0 68.4 '85.2 74.5 66.7 58.0 76.0 20.6 ! 69.4 652.49 10.0 1 649.91 31.0 646.46 25.5 646.19 106 643.55 33.3 642.69 34.2 1 641.31 23.1 642.85 14.0 644.51 23.7 645.41 29.4 645.14 31.6 643.96 31.3 646.96 17.4 51.0 70.0 59.0 43.0 80.0 72.0 47.0 87.5 78.0 51.5 85.5 92.2 71.0 63.0 84.4 83.0 88.6 88.2 62 6 Alti- tudes. Feet. 3,087 3,037 3,037 3,322 3,486 3,732 3,757 3,757 4,070 4,070 4,532 4,590 4,562 4,621 4,402 4,089 4,0>J9 4,015 3,976 3,976 4,336 4,419 4,419 4,771 4,700 4,760 5,068 5,143 4,947 4,947 4,947 5,027 4,721 Remarks. Clear; wind S 35° E. Clear; slight breeze from S, ; a few clouds. Calm and clear. Clear; wind S. Clear; overcast from NW. to NE. ; slight breeze from E. Overcast; breeze from N. 20° B. Clear and cumuli; breeze N. Clear; slight breeze from W.;"_a few clouds. Clear; breeze from SE. Clear; breeze moderate from N". 80° W. Clear; breeze moderate from N. 80° W. Clear; some clouds. Clear; light air from E. Clear; slight breeze from SW. t.lear and clouds in the horizon; strong wind from NE. Heavy clouds arising since an hour; sky partially covered; ap- pi arance of bad weather; gale of wind from SE., and light- ning from the same quarter. Clear; some clouds; moderate wind from N. Clear; wind N.; moderate. Clear; wind IVE.; moderate. Slight breeze from NE. Clear; strong wind from S. 60° E. Clear; moderate breeze from S. 35° E. Calm and clear. Calm and clear. Slight breeze from NW.; sky covered with heavy clouds; a thunder storm passing by. Air SW.; clear and clouds. Moderate breeze from E.; clear and clouds. Moderate breeze from E.; clear and clouds. Calm; cleer; clouds in horizon. Calm and clear; some clouds. Calm and clear; some clouds. Slight breeze from NW. ; clear; clouds; big clouds over the mountains. Slight breeze from NW. ; clear; clouds; big clouds over the mountains. Slight breeze from NW.; thun- der storm approai'hing. Cloudy; air from S. [ 174 ] 564 Table of meteorological observations — Continued. Thermometer. Alti- Date. Time. Barom. Attached. Frb>-. tudes. Remarks. 1843. Millim. Cent. Fahr. Feet. July -l 6 6h. 58m, a. ra. - 647.91 24.0 82.4 4,899 Clear and clouds; slight breeze or air from SW. 7 Noon 639.55 22.0 73.0 5,103 Clear; clouds in horizon; moder- ate breeze from N. ih. 13m. p.m. - 638.84 23.6 78.5 5,192 Clear; clouds in horizon; moder- ate breeze from N. 5h. 43m. p. m. - 635.13 I 31.7 69.2 5,305 Overcast with clouds; a little rain; air from N. Sunset i 635.93 18.0 64.0 5,203 Clear over head; cloudy horizon; \Y 'untains covered with dark r'.j ds. Ai. ::,. ; clear; cloudy horizon. 8 Sunrise 635.61 14.0 5.'). 5 5,203 Noon 6.}1.43 21.8 72.6 5,497 Overcast; rainy appearance; slight breeze from N. 60° W. Ih. 29m. p. m. - 630.89 22.3 73.5 5,531 Overcast; rainy appearance; slight breeze from N. 60° W. 9 Sunrise 623.05 13.7 55.0 5,756 Overcast; air from E. Oh. 45m. p. m. - , 604 61 24.2 70.1 6,759 Clear and clouds; moderate breeze from N. 25° E. 2h. 45m. p. m. - . 603.49 'i- .0 66.5 6,770 Overcast; moderate breeze from N. 25° E. Sunset 601.96 14.1 57.0 6,750 Overcast; calm; moderate oreeze from N. 25° E. 10 Sunrise 600.59 10.2 49.0 6,750 Overcast with rainy clouds; wind S. 30° E. Noon 609.20 20.4 68.0 6,517 Overcast, and some blue sky; wind moderate from E. Oh. 45m. p. m. - 608.90 20.2 06.2 6,520 i Overcast, and some blue sky; ! wind moderate from E. 5h. 30m. p. m. - 615.86 20.1 74.0 6,238 i Clear; some clouds; wind slight from E. Sunset 615.85 17.1 63.0 Clear; some clouds; wind slight from E. Sunset 615.85 17.1 63.0 6,135 Clear; some clouds; wind slight from E. 11 Sunrise 614.65 10.9 .'il.O 6,135 Wind SE. ; clear. 2h. 5m. p. ra. - 589.80 21.1 70.0 7,464 Overcast; moderate wind SE. Sunset 589.46 18.8 65.0 7,305 Clear and clouds; slight breeze from SW. 12 Sunrise 588.13 7.8 44.0 7,305 Clear; slight wind from NE. Ih. 20m. p. m.- 611.99 32.0 87.5 6,544 Clear; slight wind from NE. 3h. 20m. p. m. - 611.61 32.4 89.5 6. .577 Clear; moderate wind from S. Sunset 620.79 21,5 69.5 5,797 Clouds, and some clear sky; calm. f^y\ fj 13 Sunrise 621.40 8.1 46.0 5.797 Clear; breeze from NW. ' ' ' Noon 633.51 30.8 87.0 5,518 Clear, and some clouds; ^vind SE. Ih. 28m. p. m, - 633.00 30.8 85.0 5,533 Clear, and some clouds; wind SE. Clear and cabn. 14 Sunrise (') 639.60 13 8 68 2 5,086 Noon 648.84 32.1 90.0 4,886 Clear and clouds; calm. 1 h. 30m. p m. - 648.20 .35.7 88.5 5,030 Fresh breeze from E . 4h. p. m. 646.51 28.0 82.5 5,038 Calm; thunder storm approach- 15 Sunrise 647.85 15.8 59.3 4,655 mg. Clear; a fe>v clouds; calm. 8h. 50m. p. m.- 64 8.. 39 25.9 83.0 4,795 Clear and clouds; flaws of wind • 1 from SW. Noon - ! 048.08 32.9 91.0 4,881 Clear.; cloudBj calm. aed. 565 [ 174 ] Table of meteorological observations — Continued. Remarks. louds; slight breeze or (Is in horizon; raoder- ! from N. ids in horizon; moJer- 5 from N. ylth clouds; a little from N. head; cloudy horizon; 18 covered with dark 3ar; cloudy horizon. ■ainy appearance; slight om N. 60° W. •ainy appearance; slight om N. 60° W. air from E. clouds; moderate breeze 25° E. moderate breeze from E. ralm; moderate Dreeze . 25° E. with rainy clouds; wind E. and some blue sky; oderate from E. and some blue sky; oderate from E. )me clouds; wind slight nic clouds; wind slight (me cloud.'?; wind slight 3.; clear. ; moderate wind SB. d clouds; slight breeze ^. ight wind from NE. ight wind from NE. oderate wind from S. and some clear sky; •cezc from NW. ud some clouds; ^^ind nd some clouds; wind d calm. d clouds; calm. eeze from E. hunder storm approach - few clouds; calm. d clouds; flaws of wind W. louds; calm. Time. Barom. Thermometer. 1 Alti- i Date. Attached. Free. tudes. 1843. July 16 2h. 20m. p. m. MilUm. 647.49 Cent. 33.9 Fahr. 94.2 Feet. 4,929 4h. 20m. p. m. 646.69 28.7 83.5 4,890 Sunset 646.70 24.0 74.8 4,774 1 16 Sunrise Noon 646.36 637.37 13.3 28.2 57.0 82.0 4,774 5,324 17 Ih. 50m. p. m. Sunrise Noon 637.37 6.34.19 625.37 29.2 15.6 26.5 84.5 !58.2 77.0 5,456 ; .5,292 5,851 Ih. 6m. p. m. 625.37 27.1 78.5 5,863 18 • Sunrise 5h. 27m. a. m. lOh. 50m. a m. 617.88 617..35 616.17 10.6 12.4 27.8 49.0 54.0 73.0 5,9.'i8 6,020 6,318 Noon 615.25 29.2 78,6 6,351 Sunset 613.90 20.3 66.0 6,260 19 Sunrise 613.04 13.6 57.5 6,260 Noon 614.04 29.7 86,0 6,337 Ih. 60m. p. m. 61.3.26 "26.0 77.5 6,391 Sunset 606.80 18.6 62.5 6,527 20 Sunrise Ih. 22m. p. m. 604.94 608. .56 7.6 26.9 44.2 77.2 6,527 6,613 2h. 52m. p. m. 608.16 28.2 78.5 6,647 21 Sunset Sunrise Ih. 4m, p. m. 6l5.a4 G14.60 633,30 20 6 7.4 28.5 69.2 44.8 83.5 6,122 6,122 .5,488 2h. 32m. p. m. 632.57 24.3 75.0 .5,457 22 Sunset Sunrise Oh. 37m. p. m. 2h. 8m. p. m. Sunset 636.25 634.50 641.03 641.03 641.19 21.8 7.2 31.9 31.6 22.7 71.0 44.4 85.0 86.0 , 73.0 5,192 5,192 5,161 5,163 4,974 Remarks. Clear and clouds; flaws from SW. Overcast; moderate breeze from SW. Oveicast; calm; dark clouds in E. Calm; clear; few cumuli. Strong wind from N. 20° E.; squall of rain just passing • /er; masses of cumuli. Weather growing worse. Cloudy; some clear sky; calm. Wind E ; clear; some cumuli; dark clouds above the moun- tains. Wind E,; clear; some cumuli; dark clouds above the moun- tains. Clear; slight breeze from W . Clear; slight breeze from W . Clear and calm; temperature of upper spring = 69''. Fahr., lower spring = 60°. 5 Fahr. Clear; some cumuli; darker clouds over the mountains; slight breeze SE. Cloudy; wind NW., but chang- ing every instant; temperature of upper spring = 61°.0, lower spring = 68°. Fahr. Clear; a slight breeze from N W. ; temperature of upper spring ss 57°. 8, lower spring 54°. 3 Fahr. Moderate breeze from N. ; clouds; some clear sky; thunder storm inN. Cloudy over the mountains; clear in N. ; breeze NE. Cloudy; thunder storm has pass- ed; clear above the mountains; breeze from S., but changing every moment to every quarter. Clear and calm. Clear; few cumuli; slight breeze from N, Clear; few cumuli; slight breeze from N. Cloudy; calm. Slight breeze from SE. ; clear. Clear; some cumuli; slight breeze fromNW. Thunder storm, with rain, ad- vancing from NW. Cloudy; some clear sky; calm. Clear; air from SE. Clear; air from NW. Clear; air from NW. i Clear; slight breeze from E. .1/ [ 174 ] 566 Table of meteorological observations — Continued. Time. Barom. Thermometer. Alti- tudes. Date. Attached. Free. 1843. MilVm . Coit. Fahr. Feet. July 23 Sunri.se 639 62 7.4 45 4,974 Noon 64.5.29 29.8 85.0 4,959 2h. p. m. G4.'J,09 36.6 90 .5,0.56 4h. p. m. 644.49 30.4 88.3 6,080 Sunset 643.35 21.8 74.0 4,940 24 5h. o4m. a. m. 642.95 13.0 55.0 4,940 2h. 4 m. p. m. 641.70 32.8 89.0 5,143 4h. 4m. p. m. 64095 .33.4 88.5 5,179 25 Sunrise 611. .39 13.4 55.0 4,965 lOh. 5m. a. m. 613.74 27.7 81.6 4,991 2h. 5m. p. m. 643.00 28.6 82.0 5,032 4h. 5ra. p. m. 642.48 27.8 81.5 5,048 Sunset 643.50 30.8 69.0 4,857 26 Sunrise 644.35 14.4 58.0 4,857 Sunset C44.00 17.8 64.0 4,866 27 Ih. 16m. p. m 643.29 31.4 87.0 5,128 3h. p. m. 641.54 32.7 87.2 5,170 Sunset 636.00 24.4 70.0 5,184 28 Sunrise 643. 1 1 15.0 58 8 .5,184 Noon 637.78 22.1 71.0 .5,210 Ih. 26m. p. m. 637.40 31.2 08. 3 5,201 29 4h. 26m. a. m. 631.85 12.0 53.0 5,336 6h. 56m. p. m. 62f..50 14.0 5.5.6 .5,557 30 5h. 11m. a. in. 637.64 11.6 52.5 5,530 Noon 612.53 20.0 64.5 6,339 Ih. 26m. p. m. 612.24 20.6 65.3 6,359 Sunset 585.52 12.3 54.0 7, .521 31 Sunrise 584.40 10.8 48.0 7.531 Noon 583.29 22.6 69,0 7,844 Oh. 36m. p m. 582.29 22j6 69.5 7,847 Sunset 592.70 17.7 64.0 ■ »7,178 Aug. 1 Sunrise 592.20 6.2 42.4 7,178 O Noon 592.19 24.0 72.0 7,382 Oh. 54m. p. m. 592.06 24.8 74.0 7,408 Sunset 583.75 16.4 62.0 7,730 2 Sunrise 580.55 11.0 51.6 7,7.30 Noon 579.79 22.2 73.0 7,994 Ih. 24m. p. m. 579.40 22.2 70.5 7,995 3 Sunrise 579.37 1.2 33.0 7,602 9h. 52m. a. m. 572.37 19.0 68.8 8,314 Sunset 692.95 I8.<1 60.0 7,143 4 ■ Sunrise 593.64 6.3 .38.5 7,143 ; Oh. 32m. p. m. 602.88 26.3 79.5 6,951 Ih. 42m. p. m. 602.88 2«.l 80.0 6,963 6 fth. 50m. a. m. 604.71 17.5 64.0 6,727 9h. 50m. a. ni. 604. 80 10.6 67.2 6,755 lOh. 50m. a. m. 604.60 21.3 69.5 6,786 Remarks. Clear; air from E. Clear; slight l)i-ee-.'.e from E. Clear; slight breeze from E. Clear; slight breeze from E. Clear and calm. Clear; air from W. Clear; air from W.; clouds in horizon. Clear; wind from E. Clear and clouds; wind N. Clear and clouds; wind N. Clear and clouds, wind N. Clear and clouds; wind N. Clear and clouds; breeze from S. Overcast; air from N. Clear and clouds; air from E. Clear and clouds; breeze from N. Clear and clouds; thunder storm coming up from N. Clear and clouds; breeze from N, Overcast; calm % Overcast; breeze S. 25° W. Beginning to rain. Fine rain; calm. Rainy. Misty; rainy appearance; cairn. Clear and clouds; slight breeze from SE. Clear and clouds; slight brcezo from SE. Clear; moderate breeze from S. Clear; mist still in horizon; breeze W. Clear and clouds; wind N. 24° W. Clear and clouds; wind N. 24° W. (ylear; cloudy in horizon; wind E. Clear and calm. Clouds; a little rain; a little clear; slight breeze from NE. Clouds; a little rain; a little clear; slight breeze from NE. Clear and clouds; breeze from NE. Clear; wind W. Clear; clouds; strong wind from W. Clear; clouds; strong wind from W. Clear and calm. Sky covered with thin misty clouds; breeze S. 70° W. Clear; clouds; moderate breeze from W. Clear; few cumuli; calm. Cloudy; some clear sky; slight breeze from S. Cloudy; strong breeze from S. Clear and calm. Clear and calm. Clear and calm. 567 [ 174 3 Table of meteorological observations — Continued. from E. ;ht lu-op-.'.e from E. flit breeze from E. ght breeze from E. calm. from W. r from W.; clouds in nd from E. I clouds; wind N. 1 clouds; wind N. I clouds, wind N. I clouds; wind N. 1 clouds; breeze from S. 1 air from N. 1 clouds; air from E. I clouds; breeze from N. 1 clouds; thunder storm up from N. d clouds; breeze from N, ; calm >. ; breeze S. 25° W. ig to rain. 1; calm. iny appearance; cairn, d clouds; slight breeze d clouds; slight brcczo a. odurnte breeze from S. St still in horizon; breeze clouds; wind N. 24° W. I clouds; wind N. 24° W. )udy in horizon; wind E. 1 calm. a little rain; a little clear; reeze from NE. 1 little rain; a little clear; reeze from NE. clouds; breeze from NE. ind W. ouds; strong wind from ouds; strong wind from Date. Time. 1843. Aug. 5 Noon Oh. 50m. p. m. Ih. fiOm. p. m. 2h. .M)m. p. m. 3h. 50m. p. in. 4h. 50m. p. m. Sunset 6 Sunrise Sunset 7 Sunrise Ih. 50m. p. m. Sunset - 8 Sunrise _ 2h. 28m. p. m. 9 Sunrise - Noon ^ Ih. 7m. p. m. 10 Sunrise - Noon . Sunset - 11 Sunrise . 2h. 8m. p. m. Sunset - 12 Sunrise - Ih. 20m. p. m. Sunset « 13 Sunrise - lOh. 2m. a. m. Noon . Oh. 40m. p. m. Sunset . 14 Sunrise - lOh. 50m. a m. Noon - Sunset • 15 Sunrise 2h. p. m. 3h. p. m. Sunset ■ 16 Sunrise Noon Sunset - I Barom. 17 Sunri.se Thermometer. Attached.; Free. Alti- tudes. Millim. Cent 604.05 604.45 604.45 604.45 603.85 603.44 603.09 602 70 588.40 587.19 597.. ^9 590.70 596.40 606.81 603.84 611.10 610.77 614.05 610 80 607.77 605.56 600.30 599.39 600.14 587.45 587.76 587.74 587.03 592.92 593.65 505.20 595.27 602.45 602.44 602.52 604.45 611.50 611.28 610.94 610.36 613.34 613.31 614.24 24.4 25.5 25.8 26.0 26.5 25.8 20.8 7.5 19.3 8.0 27.0 21.4 12.G ■2.'i.5 1*1.1 24.8 26.5 6.8 26.6 22.0 12.8 22 6 16.8 1.6 17.5 11.6 - 1.5 17.9 21.6 22.1 19.8 1.2 24.8 29.2 23.8 2.4 29.2 29.8 19.0 3.2 30.1 23.6 3.9 Fahr. 75.0 79.5 78.2 77.5 75.2 95.0 70.0 40.0 63.5 43.0 79.5 09.8 52.0 i 78.0 51.0 77.0 78.0 41.0 78.0 71.8 56.5 71.0 61.2 31.8 60.5 52.8 28.0 64.2 67.0 68.0 67.2 32.2 75.2 86.1 75.0 34.0 84.2 86.5 65.2 37.0 82.0 74.3 38.4 Remarks. 6,743 6,743 7,490 6,040 7, 1 96 7,000 7,000 Feet. 0,825 Clear; calm; cloudy. 6,881 Clear; calm; cloudy. 6,875 Clear; calm; cloudy. 6,871 j Clear; culm; cloudy. 6,888 Clear; W. wind in squalls. Free thermometer in tlic sun. Clear; s;oinc clouds; W. wind in squalls. Clear and calm. Cloudy; thunderstorm approach- ing; air from E.; temperature of spring, 46° Faiir. Air fro.m W.; clear. Clear and clouds; breeze from W. Clear and cloudy; slight breeze from W. Cloudy; wind from E. 6,784 1 Cloudy; wind from S. 6,594 j Cloudy; rain lu.st night; wind I from N. 6,483 j Clouds and clear; wind NW. 6,517 j Clouds and clear; wind NW. 6,028 i Clear, sumo clouds; calm. 6,502 I Clear; squulls from iJl points. 6,557 I Moderate breeze from W. ; clear; ' hoiizon dirty. 6,557 I Clear; fro.sli breeze from W. 6,926 ■ Hazy; fro.sh breeze from W. 6,720 I Clear alid clouds; moderate wind ] from NW. Clear; calm; white frost. Clear; calm; moderate wind from NW. Calm and clear. Calm and clear; white frost. At the divide; moderate breeze from NW. Moderate breeze from NW. Moderate breeze from NW. Clear and calm. Clear; air from NW. Clear; slight breeze from S. Clear; slight breeze from S. Clear: slight breeze from NW. Clear; wind from N. Clear over head; dirty horizon; calm. Clear over head; dirty horizon; calm. Clear over head; dirty horizon; calm. Clear and calm. Clear over head; horizon dirty; wind squally from N. Clear over head; horizon dirty; slight breeze from N. Clear; foggy horizon; air from SW. 7,446 7,221 7,221 7,489 7,242 7,265 6,9.^1 6,951 6,846 6,941 6,667 6,667 6,546 6,516 6,238 6,238 6,399 C, 1.50 6,150 [ 174 ] 668 Table of meteorological observaliona — Continued. Thermometer. 1843. Aug. 17 18 10 20 2J 23 24 25 26 27 2h. 3m. p. m. Sunset Sunriac 2h. p. m. 3h. p. m. Sunriue Noon Oh. 46ni. p. m. Sunset Sunrise Noon Ih. p. m. 4h. 10m. p. m. Sunrise Noon Ih. 5m. p. m. Sunset Sunrise Noon Ih. 30m. p. m. Sunrise Noon Oh. 45m. p. m. Sunset Sunrise Noon Sunset Sunrise Noon Sunset Sunrise Noon Millim. 610.45 610.68 611.83 607.04 607.04 606.30 608.85 608.54 602.75 602.05 696.33 596.33 575.87 607.06 614.45 613.93 612.41 612.29 616.50 616.02 616.03 61488 614.88 018.77 621.22 624.34 621.8:1 620.84 623.64 j 638.67 637.64 Cent. 29.1 18.1 5.3 31.5 31.9 4.6 32.9 33.2 25.0 4.3 27.7 30.0 27.2 6.6 31.6 31.0 18.8 4.6 28.7 27.2 8.6 25.2 25,7 14.2 7.7 26 16.8 0. 31.4 22.6 0. Free. Fahr. 84.0 64.0 38.1 82.6 820 38.6 88.0 89.0 72.2 37.0 80.5 82.5 79.2 43.8 89.0 87.0 65.0 36.5 84.8 79.0 47.2 7.5.2 74.5 56.4 45.4 72.2 62.5 28.5 Alti- ] tudes. Feet. 6,558 6,234 6,234 6,735 6,732 6,361 6,640 6,719 6,661 6,661 7,227 7,257 8,234 6,S58 6,416 6,425 6,185 6,185 6,881 6,264 5,989 6,290 6,288 5,843 5,843 5,841 5,738 5,738 Remarkti 635.86 j 24.7 i 63.5.70 ! 26.1 83.3 5,958 68.3 i .5,012 29.0 j 5,012 77.0 I 5,320 79.5 I 5,347 Clear; foggy horizon; calm. Clear; horizon more pure; calm Clear; air from N. 80" W. ; hazy horizon. Clear; slight breeze from W. Clear; slight breeze from W. Smoky horizon; calm and clear. Clear; few cumuli; breeze ir. squalls from SW. Clear; few cumuli; breeze ia squalls from SW. Clear and calm ; horizon not pure. Clear, and dirty horizon; breeze from NW. Moderate wind N. 60" W. ; hazy sun. Moderate wiiid N. 60" W.; hazy sun- Dividing ridge; smoky; sim faint. scattered cumuli; thunder stomi some distance in E.; high wind N. 60° W. Smoky; sun faint; cumuli; air SE. Smoky; sun faint; calm. Smoky ; sun faint; wind in squalls from S. Cumuli; thunder storm at a dis- tance; slight breeze from N. Smoky; scattered cumuh; calm. Very smoky; sun faint; cumuli, calm. Very smoky; high wind from N. 10° W. ; rainy appearance. Smoky; clear; cold breeze from S. Wind in squalls from NW. Clear; very smoky. Clear and calm; very smoky. Clear; hazy; cold wind from SE Clear; hazy; breeze in squalls from SE. Clear; hazy; calm; temperature of Big Spring = 65°. Fahr. Clear; smoky; calm; tempcratur'! TBig Spring = 56°.0 Fahr. of< Steam hole = 81°. 5 " CStoamboat = 87°.0 " Clear; smoky; moderate breeie from S. 25° E. Clear; smoky; calm. Clear; smoky; some cumuli, calm. Cloudy; lainy appearance; not quite so smoky; breeze S. 70° W. Partly clouded sky. inued. Remarkt). bggy horizon; calm, lorizon more pure; calm lir from N. 80" W. ; hazy 11. jlight breeze from W. jlight breeze from W. horizon; calm and clear. few cumuli; breeze in is from SW. few cumuli; breeze in Is from SW. nd calm ; horizon not pure. and dirty horizon; breeze NW. »te wind N. 60° W. ; hazy jtewiiidN. 60° W.;hazy ig ridge; smoky; sun faint; »ed cumuli; thunderstorm distance in £.; high wind 0° W. r; sun faint; cumuU; air r; sun faint; calm. ; sun faint; wind in squalls S. li; thunder storm at a dis- ; slight breeze from N. ; scattered cumuH; calm, imoky; sun faint; cumuli: moky; high wind from N. VV. ;*rainy appearance. ; clear; cold breeze from S. in squalls from NW. very smoky, and calm; very smoky. ^ hazy; cold wind from SE hazv; breeze in squalls SE.' hazy; calm; temperature of Spring = 65°. Fahr. smoky; calm; temperatur'; Jig Spring = 56°.0 Falir. Steam hole = 81°. .5 " Iteamboat = 87°.0 " smoky; moderate breeze S. 25° E. smoky; calm, smoky; some cumuli, , lainy appearance; not so smoky; breeze S. 70 clouded sky. 569 [ 174 ] Table of meteorological observations — Continued. Dale. 1843. I Aug. 27 29 30 31 Sept. 1 Sunset Sunrise 2h. p. m. Sunset Sunrise Noon Ih. p. m. Sunrise Noon Ih. 30m, p. m. Sunset Sunrise Noon 4h. 48m. p. m. Sunset Sunrise 6h. 30m. a. m. 8h. 5Cm. a. m. 9h. 50m. a. m. lOh. 5l)m. a. m. Noon 2h. p. m. Sunset 5h. 33m. a. ni. Sunset Sunrise Sunset Sunrise Sunset Sunrise Thermometer. 1 Alti- tudes. Barom. Remarks. Attached. Free. MilUm. Cent. Fahr. Feet. 636.35 20.8 60.2 5,142 Dark cloudu; very little blue; slight breeze from S. 638.33 14.6 55.0 6,142 Slight breeze from N.; light clouds all over the sky; thun- der storm last night, with mod- erate rain, which has made the air clear. 648 50 28.3 78.0 4,764 Fresh bree/.e S. 20° E.; clear over head; clouds; rain in the horizon. 647.77 20.3 65.0 4,681 Calm; clear; cumuli. 646 70 14.1 54 4,681 Air from N W. ; dark rainy clouds moving on the horizon; over head not so dark; considera- ble rain last night; thunder and wind. 629.32 21.8 71.0 5,561 Clear and clouds; wind from E. 629.55 26.1 76.0 5,595 Clear and clouds; wind from E. 623.40 4.2 39.0 5,670 Clear; clouds in horizon; con- stant thunder storms, with rain last night; calm. 637.29 19.8 67.0 5,169 Wind SW. ; clouds and blue sky. 636.96 22.7 73.0 .'),228 Strong wind SW.; clouds and blue sky. 644.49 19.8 64.0 4,723 Calm; almost overcast with heavy clouds. 646.04 8.2 44.5 4,723 Clear; slight breeze from S. 70* W. Clear; clouds; calm; began to rain 649.63 26.6 71.0 4,666 at sunset, and continued almost the whole night. 659.56 20.2 65.0 4,189 Clear and ck>uds; fresh breeze 1 from S. 658.91 12.8 5i.5 4,093 Clear and calm; few clouds. 659.04 6.2 41.2 4,093 Clear and calm." 658.39 8.5 45.5 4,113 Clear; air from N. 660. 14 22.6 61.3 4,170 Clear; air from S. 660.04 22.0 66.0 4,190 Clear; air from S. 660.15 23.2 69.0 4,195 Clear; air from S. 660.27 25.2 72.5 4,222 Clear; slight breeze from S. 659.28 23.7 79.0 4,282 Clear; slight breeze from S. 656.83 16.2 60.5 4,217 Clear and calm. 655.78 7.5 42.0 4,247 Clear and calm. 653.10 22.8 75.5 4,526 Calm; clear, and clouds in the horizon. 652.39 18.0 64.5 4, .526 Wind brisk from SE.; clouds; rainy appearance; there was a thunderstorm at a distance, and some rain last night. 650.11 18.8 65.0 4,496 Clear over head; dark clouds in horizon; thunder storm with rain in the afternoon. 652.03 8.6 45.5 4,496 Clear and calm; some cumuli in the horizon. 656.25 15.7 55.0 4,173 Clear and some cumuU; calm; thunder storm with some rain and a gale this afternoon. 658.21 5.3 39.5 4,173 Clear and calm. 1 p f' 1 1 ] [ 174 ] 570 Table qf meteorological observations — Continued. Date. Time. 1843. Sept. 7 10 11 Millim. 6.58.95 65!). 14 65 4,1 19 Claar and calm. 50.2 4,125 Clear and culm. 04.6 j 4,152 Clcai^nd calm. 07.2 I 4,172 Clear and frcntic hrcozo from N I 85° E. 70.0 I 4,218 Clear, niid wind in .squalls from | same (luartcr. 71.8 : 4,2.35 j Clear, and wind in sqimlls fronil ! S. 25° W. 75.0 1 4,258 ] Clear, and wind in squalls froml S. 25° W. 74.3 14,271 Clear, and wind in squalls from I I S. 25° W. 72.0 ■ 4,270 Clear, and some clouds in the ho- I rizon. 73.0 ! 4,276 I Clear, and some clouds in the ho- 1 { I rizon. 61.6 I 4,181 40.9 73.0 64.0 72.0 13.0 14.2 11.9 12.7 13.7 12.2 14.8 22.7 Clear over head; light clouds in | horizon; calm. 4,181 Clear; clouds in the horizon; j calm. 4,320 Clear over head; clouds in the ho- rizon; air from SW. 4,226 Clear over head; clouds in the ho- 1 rizon; air from SW.; cahu. 49.2 I 4,226 Clear and calm. 75.0 I 4,276 Clear over head; clouds in hori-| zon; air from SE. 5, 159 On the jxjak of Crater island; air| from 8E. 4,336 On the shore of the lake; air frora| SE. Clear; scattered cumuli; a gale of j wind S. 55° E. At the foot of the peniasula; very I violent gale. At the top of the peninsula; bluol sky, with scattered lleecy I clouds; heavy near the hori- zon; wind S. 20° E. 4,360 The whole sky covered with I rainy clouds; thunder, light- I ring, and rain, almost all the] I night. 58.0 j 4,363 Clearing up; calm. 53.0 ; 4,354 59.0 4,336 ! 86.8 ; 4,508 i j 89.5 5,020 53.0 55.0 57.0 54.0 60.9 80.0 4,324 4,313 4,293 4,353 Strong wind from N. 25° E.;] rainy clouds. Strong wind from N. 25° E.;| rainy clouds. Strong wind from N. 25° E;] some blue sky. Sky covered with rainy clouds; j strong wind from N. 25° E. 4,315 I Sky covered with rainy clouds;] some blue sky. More clear sky; sun; moderate j wind from N. 25° E. Freo| thermometer in the sun. iitinued. 571 [ 174 2 Table of meteorological observations — Continued. Remurlu. 111(1 calm, and calnt. uiiJ calin. ^tul culm, und fjciitic lircozc IVoni N, I E. mid wind iit MqualU from] V. qiiurtor. anil wind in squalls froail l^° W. and wind in squalU from I {5° W. and wind in squalls from I JO" W. and sonic clouds in the ho-| n. and some clouda in the ho- in. over head; light clouds in | izon; calm. I clouds in the horizon;] fii. over head; clouds in the ho.| in; air from SW, over head; clouds in the ho- 1 n; air from SW.; caiin. und culm. over head; clouds in hori-| ; air fronx SE. c [leak of Crater island; air j II !SE. i shore of the lake; air from j scattered cumuli; a gale of j d S. 55° E. foot of the peninsula; very] cut gale, top of the peninsula; blue v»ith scattered lleecy [ ids; heavy near the hori- wind S. 20° E. whole sky covered with I ly clouds; thunder, light- j T, and rain, almost all the j it. ng up; calm. wind from N. 25° E,|| ly clouds. wind from N. 25° E.| y clouds. wind from N. 25° E.; ,e blue sky. overed with rainy clouds; ng wind from N. 25° E. overed with rainy clouds; j ic blue sky. clear sky; sun; moderate I from N. 25° E. Freo| moraeter in the sun. Date, t 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 3h. p. ni. 4h. p. in. 5h. p. m. Sunset Sunrise Sunset Sunrise 4h. 50m. p. m. Sunset Sunrise 3h. 60m. p. m. Sunset Sunrise 3h. 43m. p. m. Sunset Sunrise 3h. 56m. p. m. 6h. 20m. p. m. 6h. 9m. a. in. - 3h. 56m. p. m. Sunset Sunrise Sunset Sunset Sunrise Oh. 13m. p. ni. Sunrise 9h. 50m. a. m. lOh. 50m. a. m. Sunset Sunrise Sunset Sunrise 7h. a. m. Mil Urn. 655.88 6.^6.65 %56.76 655.60 6.'J7.56 655.48 654.88 657.51 656.76 65.5.12 651.38 650.25 648.28 640.15 638.80 637.07 604.04 630.79 631.37 642.85 642 35 643.43 643.31 645.12 645.81 649.12 651.48 652.48 652.59 649.94 646.00 646.39 Thermometer. .\ttuched. Free. Cent. ,22.7 21.8 20.0 9.8 2.3 9.2 3.0 27.2 18.8 8.2 30.0 20.6 3.5 30.3 22.6 11.1 14.6 11 1 — 5.5 20.0 15.0 — 2.9 16.4 0.3 3.7 8.6 — 0.2 12.0 17.2 9.5 5 6 6.0 647.50 ^ .0.8 Alti- tudes. Fahr. 64.0 63.0 60.2 62.2 33.0 47.2 35.5 82.0 66.5 46.4 80.0 67.6 37.5 83.0 74.0 I 52.0 58.0 Fetf. 4,289 4,247 4,222 4,080 4,080 4,119 4,119 4,283 4,179 4,179 4,564 4,444 4,444 5,081 5,028 5,028 6,280 60.5 I 5,144 ! 21.5 j 5,144 65.2 ! 4,849 58.6 25.1 60 5 43.0 34.0 4,667 4,6«7 4,779 4,764 4,764 647.76 6.1 44.8 I 4,434 i 29.5 I 4,239 50.2 : 4,342 55.6 I 4,387 48.0 \ 4,504 41.0 ^504 42.5 4,519 32.0 4,619 32.0 4,487 Remarks. Clear; clouds scatterod; moder- ate winil Ironi N. 2.'i° E. Clear; clmids scattered; Hunj moderate wind from N. 25° E. Clear; clouds wiitterod; sun; inoderuto wind from N. 25° E. Clear. Clear and culm. Clear and clouds; calm. Clear and cloiids; calm. Clear; ncatlured clouds; sunj calm. Clear; scattered clouds; sunj calm. Clear; few scattered clouds; slight breeze from IS W. Clear and clouds; sun; moder- ate breeze from 8E. Clear; moderate breeze from SE. Clear; horizon partly covered with cumuli; air from NW. Clear and scattered clouds; sun; fresh wind from S. Clear and scattered clouds; sun} fresh wind from S. Calm and clear. Dividing ridge, ! feet below the summit; violent gale from N. 65° W.; cumuli in same quar- ter. In a valley below the dividf ; sky clear; cold wind from NW. Sky clear and calm. Sky clear; wind from W. Sky clear; wind from W. Clear; calm; bank of fog in N. Fort Hall; clear and calm. Sky covered with rainy dark clouds; strong wind from S. 25° W. Rain and snow during the whole night; wind N. Wind N.; sky covered with clouds. Clear and calm; rain last night. Clear and calm; clouds in horizon. Almost cloudy all over; air SE. Wind S.; overcast with rainy clouds; begins to rain. Moderate wind from S. ; sky part- ly clear; partly covered with rainy clouds for the greatest part of the day. Calm ; overcast; snow falling thick. Calm; overcast; snow faUing thick. [ 174 ] 67'2 Tffble qf meteorologicul observations — Coiilinued. Theripometier. Alts. Date. Time. Burom. Attached. Ftee. tudei. ■ 1843. Sept. 23 8h. a. m. MiUim, 64tt.U Cent. 19.8 Fahr. 39.0 Ftet. 4,463 Oh. a. m. 648.90 10.2 35.0 4,380 lOh. a. m. 648.31 8.8 40.0 4,511 Uh. u. m. 649.29 18.3 43.0 4,531 Noon 649. 16 17.8 43.0 4,534 111. p. m. 648.95 20.2 47.0 4,566 2h. p. m. C48.65 16.4 47.5 4,567 3h. p. ni. 649,44 18.6 49.5 4,654 4h. p. m. 649.43 17.8 49.6 4,560 fih. p. m. 619.60 18.2 49.5 4,650 Sunset 649.99 19.8 45.5 4,620 / 7h. p. m. 649.80 19.0 45.0 4,621 8h. p. ni. 649.80 17.0 1 42.5 4,499 9h. p. m. lOh. p. m. Uh. p. m. 651.14 650.88 650.94 14.2 12.9 12.7 41.0 40.0 37.0 4,428 4,482 4,400 Midnight 650.51 8.6 37.0 4.403 34 Sunrise 651.55 1.5.6 35.0 4,388 Noon 653.60 13.0 53.2 4,367 25 »6 Sunset Sunrise 2h. p. m. 3h. p. m. 4h. p. m. 5h. p. m. Sunset 6h. 20m. a. m. 654.85 655.96 655.85 654.69 653.99 653.62 653.07 653.39 10.5 15.7 17.8 16.6 15.6 14.0 12.8 6.0 54.0 46.8 64.0 61.5 60.0 57.0 55.0 40.2 4,240 4,240 4,297 4,305 4,324 4,319 4,252 4,252 Noon 650.84 9.8 49.2 4,340 Sunset 654.28 • 8.0 44.5 4,045 27 Sunrise 656.35 — 1.5 24.0 4,045 1 Sunset 651.46 8.0 46.5 4,367 28 Sunrise 646.16 6.4 40.0 rf,367 Sunset 634.60 6.8 45.0 3,990 Calm; ovrrcaHt; snow fullij thick. Calnij overcaat) mow fallj ^IVomN. 30°W.;snowfd ing not so thick. Heavy wind from N. ; snow tu ed into rain. A Uttlc rain; somewhat ilea in the N. and E. horizon. More clearing up in that coriM a little blue !*pot. More moderate; no rain; m^ clear .sky in N. More moderate; no rain; m^ clear sky in N. More moderate; no rain; mj clear sky in N. Wind N.; skv improving frd NW. to NE. Nearly calm; clear over he clouds scatteied. Moderate wind froni N cloudy; clear spots betweej Air from N.; sky cloudy; sol clear »\Miii. More clear. Cloudy; a few stars peeping on Air from NE. ; sky bright, cept in E. Air from NE. ; southern nearly overcast; northern partly bright, partly coven with scattered clouds. Calm; overcast; clear in the horizon. Breeze from S.; sky clear; sod scattered clouds. Clear; breeze from S. Clear; gale from S. Clear and clouds; sun; wind I Clear and clouds; wind S. 72°,' More clouds. More clouds; dark in the W. Almost overcast. Cloudy; clear; rain last niga wind S. 25" W, Cloudy; rainy appearance; fre wuid from SW. Clouds and clear; wind shai from SW. Clear and calm; white frost l^j night. Overcast with clouds; cold wiij from SE. Overcast with rainy clouds; sli breeze from S. Gale from S. 70° W.; clou and clear; thunder in N. m 573 [ 174 ] Table qf meteorological observations — Continued. Im; ovrn-anti snow tkllij thick. illll; ovcri'Hst; Know tullii tliick, t from N. 20" W.j snow fj ing not 80 thick. •ftvy wind from N. ; mhow t»u cxl into rain. littlu raiii; sumowlint cleai in the N. and E. horizon, ore clci\ring up in that corii^ a little bluo !(pot. ore inoderalt'i no rain, clear sky in N. ore moderntc; no rain; dear sky in N. ore moderate i no rain; m^ clear sky in N. 'ind N.; sky improving frd NW. to NE. early calm; clear over he clouds scatteied. oderate wind from N cloudy; dear ajwts bctweel ir from N. ; sky cloudy; so^ clear spots, ore clear, loudy; a few stars peeping o\J ir I'lom NE.; sky bright, i ct'jit in E. ir from NE. ; southern nearly overcast; northern partly bright, partly coveH with scattered clouds, ni ; overcast; clear in the horizon. reeze from S.; sky clear; sod scattered clouds. oar; breeze from S. ear; gale from S. ear and clouds; sun; wind I ear and clouds; wind S. 72° | ore clouds. ore clouds; dark in the W. most overcast. oudy; clear; rain last nigM wind S. 25" W, udy ; rainy appearance; tra wind from SW. ouds and clear; wind shal from SW. ear and calm; white frost night. ercast with clouds; cold wiij from SE. .ercast with rainy clouds; slig breeze from S. de from S. 70° W.; clou and clear; thunderin N. ) 1 Thermometer. Atti- ludea. 843. Time. Barom. Attached. Free. Romnrks. MiUim. Cent. Fahr. Fett. It 29 ' SunriHe 660. fi4 4.8 36.4 3,9% Cloudy and dear overhead; wind M. 70° W. 30 Sunrise «63.36 12.0 28.5 3,787 Light douds; iiir from SB. Sunset ^82. 21 18.6 65.6 3,173 Clear; few clouds; wind squally from W. I Sunrise 677.10 19.5 55. 5 3, 1 73 Clear; wind from W. Sunset 688.21 21.8 74.0 2,761 Clear and calm. 1 Sunrise 689.56 16.0 48.0 2,761 Clear and calm. Sunset 681.00 20.6 70 2,902 Clear and culm. 3 Sunrise 684.81 20.2 42.0 1 2,902 1 Air from S. 06° E. ; light douda and dear. 4 Sunrise 689.87 14.2 47.0 2,649 Calm; cumuli; dear. • Sunset 673.04 13.0 57.5 3,172 Cloudy; gale from NW. 5 Sunrise 677.65 — 0.2 32.0 3,172 Calm and dear. Sunset 672.65 9.2 47.0 3,226 Overcast; wind NW. 6 i Sunrise 675.99 7.7 46.0 3,226 Overcast; rainy appearance; wind from NW. Sunset 678.41 10.7 50.8 3,061 Clear; some scattered cumuli; sun; wind NW. 7 Sunrise 079.09 7.9 45.5 3,061 Clear; wind NW. Sunset 698.91 14.8 57. 2,302 Clear; breeze from NW S 1 Sunri.se 697.85 4.8 38.2 2,302 Calm and clear. Sunset 702.65 16.9 62.0 2,197 1 Calm; dear, l)ut cloudy in the horizon. 9 Sunrise 699.76 2.3 36.0 2,197 Clear and calm. Sunset 702.26 20.6 68.6 2,192 Clear and .scattered cumuli: calm. 10 Sunrise 704. 1 J 8.3 43.0 2.192 Clear over head; cumuli in the horizon; calm. Sunset 706.21 17.3 62.5 1,998 Clear and calm . ; 1 Sunrise 706.44 0.8 33.0 1,998 Clear; air from E . Sunset V06.85 19.2 64.0 2,000 Clear and calm; few scattered cumuli. 12 Sunrise 704.79 — 4.3 23.0 2,000 1 Clear and calm. Sunset 709.43 17.2 62 1,879 Clear and calm. 13 Sunrise 709.08 — 0.8 28.8 1,879 Clear; few cumuli; air from W. Sunset 703.4ti 15.5 59.0 2,144 Clear and light clouds; calm. 14 Sunrise 70.'). 4 6 9.0 46.0 , 2,144 Clear and calm. Sunset 684.68 10.8 50 2,802 Clear and calm. 15 Sunrise 6S5.25 5.0 40.0 2,802 Clear; tew light clouds; calm. Sunset 678.00 16.2 61.0 3,100 Clear, and some cumuli; calm. 16 Sunrise 674.73 — 6.6 16.0 3,100 Calm; dear, with few cumuli. Sunset 676.8.5 16.0 G0.8 3,092 Wind E, ; clear and clouds. 17 Sunrise 677.66 — 2.3 25.0 3,092 (/lear and clouds; calm. Sunset 682.34 17.0 62.5 2,940 Cloudy; wind SE. 18 Sunrise 681.65 18.6 48.0 2,940 Overcast; rain began an hour be- fore sunrise; calm. Sunset 690.40 10.0 47.0 2,607 Cloudy; rain in the morning; air fromN. 19 Sunrise 688.72 .3.5 35.0 2,607 ' Misty; dew point =32°. 5 Fahr.; * calm . j Oh. 44 m. p. m. 688.72 12.4 52.0 2,700 At the foot of Blue mountains. 1 Sunset 657.20 7.6 ■46.5 3,831 Blue mountains. iO Sunrise 659.61 4.3 37.6 3,831 Clear and calm; a batik of clouds in SE . horizon . 8h. 26m. a. in. 636.82 10.6 47.6 4,768 Blue mountains. Sunset 628.54 2.8 36.3 4,dg9 Blue mountains; clear and calm. 21 Sunrise 628.65 0.8 30.0 4,989 Blue mountains; clear and calm. - W h >iiiil [ 174 ] , 574 Table of observations with the thermometer. Date. Time. Thermometer. 1843. Deg. Fahr. Oct. 27 Sunrise - Sunset 66.0 28 Sunrise 52.0 Sunset 59.0 29 Sunrise 38.0 Sunset 50.0 30 Sunrise 28 Sunset 53.0 31 Sunrise 24.0 Sunset 54,0 Nov. 1 Sunrise 34.0 Sunset 56.3 2 Sunrise 36.0 Sunset 46.0 3 Sunrise 32.0 Sunset 44.0 4 Sunrise 30.0 Suna« 52.0 5 Sunrise 36.0 Sunset 50.0 ti Sunrise 31.0 7 Sunset 49.0 8 Sunrise 42.0 12 Sunri.se 44.0 Sunset 50.0 13 Sunrise 42.0 Sunset 51.5 23 Sunrise 36.0 Sunset 41.0 24 Sunrise 38.0 Sunset 40.5 25 Sunrise 26.0 26 Sunrise 20 .0 27 Sunrise — 2.5 Sunset 28.0 28 Sunrise 18.0 Sunset 28.0 29 Sunrise 21.0 30 Sunrise 37.0 Sunset 30 Dec. 1 Sunrise 32.0 Siuiset 42.0 2 Sunrise 28.0 Sunset 34.0 3 Sunrise 185 4 Sunrise 19.6 Sunset 3^.0 6 Sunrise 3fc.O Sunset 28.2 6 Sunrise 26.0 Sunset 40.0 7 Sunset 42.0 8 Sunrise 10.0 Sunset 42.0 9 Sunrise 21.0 Sunset 39.0 10 Sunrise 10.0 Sunset 38.5 n Sunrise 18.6 Sunset 39.5 12 Sunrise 32.0 Remarks. Fort Walahwalah, Date. 1843. Dec. 12 g 13 !: .« 14 g 8 15 S S 16 s 17 s s 18 8 S 19 s Si 20 s Si 21 S» Si 22 D 23 D Si 24 D( Su 25 D£ Su 26 Da Si, 27 Da Sii 28 Da 575 [ 174 ] Table of observations with the ihervionieter — Continued. Date. 1843. Tec. 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 1844. I Jan. 1 2 3 4 6 6 7 Time. 9 10 Sunset Sunrise Sunset Sunrise Sunset Sunrise Sunset Sunrise Sunrise Sunset Sunrise Sunset Sunrise Sunset Sunrise Sunset Sunrise Sunset Daylight Daylight Sunset Daylight Sunset Daylight Sunset Daylight Sunset Daylight Sunset Daylight Sunset Daylight Sunset Daylight Sunset Daylight Sunset DayUght Sunset Daylight Daylight Sunset 7h. 12m. a. m. Sunset Gh. 25m. a. m. Sunset Sunrise Sunset 7h. 12m. a. m. Noon Evening 7h. 45m. a. m. Noon Evening 7h. 25m. a. m. Sunset 7h. 15ro. a. m. Sunset Thermometer. Deg. Fahr. 39.5 0.0 26.0 10.0 32.0 25.0 36.0 32.0 39.0 52.0 34.0 48.0 29.0 46.0 36.0 39.0 33.0 43.0 39.0 38.0 39.0 31.0 37.0 32.0 33.0 22.0 3U.U 20.0 23.0 18.0 34.0 33.0 19.0 14.0 19.0 17.0 27.0 24.0 28.0 26.0 20.0 23.0 20.0 24.0 12.0 22.0 8.0 21.0 6.0 31.0 24.0 20.0 35.0 30.0 23.0 33.0 22.0 29.0 Remarks. Spring 61°; brisk SE. wind all day. Wind 3. ; Overcast. Cloudy; little raia. Fair day; Ugh* breeze from S, Wind S., fair. Clouds rising around the horizon. Cloudy; light SE. wind. Clear; wind SB. Calm; sun faint. Calm; reddish clouds. Gentle SE. breeze. Light snow falHng. Clear; wind WSW. Fair; whid S. 80° W. Fair; moilcrate SW. wind. Fair; light rlouds in E. Thick snow falling. Heavy mist. Still misty. Dense mist all day. Wind NE.; dense mist, as on the two previous days. Mist breaking away; clear bright sunshine. Clear; nearly calm. Shght mist. Clear sunset. Brisk NE. breeze; brigii* c'ouds in W. Clear wind from SW. — "".^emperature of the main spring at its edge 206'^ ; the centre t« doubtkat at the boiling point. A little snow falling. Overcast. m [ 174 ] 576 TdBle of observations with the thermometer — Continued. H Date. Time. ThCriAometer 1844. Deg. Fahr. ^^H 1^ Sunrise 15.0 ^IHK Sunset 20.0 ^Hl' Sunrise 33.0 ^HI^B^^I' Sunset 28.0 HUl: Sunrise 29.0 ^Bi^^H Sunset 31.0 HB 14 Sunrise 26.0 28.0 I^H^H Sunset 26.0 HH Sunrise 31.0 ^^Bh Sunset 34.0 HhH Sunrise 34.0 ^^HH Sunset 35.0 BMi 17 Sunrise 17.0 i^BbmHBBw Sunset 43.0 HbI ' Sunrise 28.0 ^^S^H 3h. 14m. p. m. 49.5 ^HB^H Sunset 39.0 ^^H Sunrise 37.0 H^^^B Sunset 35.0 ■h|W| 20 Sunrise 14.0 HSW^ Oh. 55m. p. ni. 41.0 ^BhB Sunset 32.0 HkB Sunrise 300 hhI Sunset 29.0 9H Sunrise 30.0 i^^H^i^H. 4h. 5ui p. m. - 37.0 MBiB Sunset 36.0 i^oM 23 ' Sunrise 40.0 ^^^H 1 Sunset )|H^^H 24 1 Sunrise 42.0 45.0 '^H^^H Sunset 36.0 '=™HB 25 Sunrise 2.0 '^^H 26 Sunrise 2.0 ^^^^H; llh. 15ni. a. m. 30.0 ^^^H' Sunset 47.0 wHli Sunrise 12.0 'l^^H^^^B' Sunset 33.0 ^^H 4h. 25m. p. m. 34.0 fl^B Sunrise 27,0 H|^H Sunset 40.0 IH^B Sunrise 34.0 sHH 3(v Sunrise 31.0 nAoI^^^k SurtBel 39.0 aLM 31 Sunrise 25.0 SAW: Feb. 1 Sunrise 27.0 WEW^m Noon 40.0 24.0 '^BSMm Sunset S|^B 2 Sunrise 24.0 ^^B^m. Sunset 35.0 ^KB^M' 8h. l.'5m. p. m. 31.0 msSm ^ ■S' "^rise 14.0 .^■■H Sunset 26.0 ^^^^1 3h. 45m. p, m. 28.0 ^H^H 4 Sunrise 20.0 I^^^B Sunset 40.0 ^^^H 9h. p. m. 12,0 Remarks. Day fair; bright sun. Partially overcast; wind SW. Overcast; wind S. 20° E. Snow falling thick; wind variable. Nearly clear; wind N. 10° W. Temperature of boiling water ZOi°.' ■■, wind N, 6° W. Cloudy; snow falling; wind W. Clear; fair. Fair; light wind N. 50° W. all day. Calm; sun bright. Reddish clouds in E. Temperature of boiling water 303°. 7 ; wind S. 20° W. i Snow falling from 9h. till 1 Ih. a. m. ; sun faint. Temperature of boiling water 204°. 3; wind W. Overcast; wind SW. Snow falling fast from SW.; snow ceased at lOh. a. j m. ; sun shone out. Calm; clear sky. Wind S. 25° W.; clouds rising in horizon; light snow falling from 9h. a. m. to Ih. p. m. i| | Temperature of boiling water iO^°. 2; wind high from SW. ^ .^ ' Sky clear; high SW. wind. P^^"" Moderate W. wind; dark cloudsjn N. Calm; sky nearly clear, .^...^jj Sky clear; sun bright. Fair day; nearly calm. Perfectly clear; calm. Temperature of boiling water 2G2°.2; calm. Sky unclouded all the day. Temperature of boiling water 202°; light breeze from I NW. I Clear; sun bright; moderate SE. wind. I Reddish clouds in horizon to E. and N.; wind SE. 1 Calm and cloudy. I Clouds breaking away. I CumuH in SE. and N. ■ Overcast; snow falling. I Snowing all day. 1 Calm; clear; bright sunshine. j Temperature of boiling water 201°. 5; calm. Nearly clear; calm. Overcast. Temperature of boiling water 201°.5; itearly calm. Light white clouds io £. Strong SW. wind. i^.^iwindN.eoW. )3<'.7; winds. 20° W, a. tn. ; sun faint. 204°. 3, wind W. now ceased at lOh. a. | ing in horizon; light to Ih. p. m. 4 1)4°. 2; wind high from I 102°; light breeze from 1 801°.55 calm. 201°. 5; nearly calm. • 577 [ 174 ] Table of observations loith the thermometer — Continued. Date. Time. Thermometer. Remarks. 1814. Deg. Fahr. Feb. 6 Sunrise 10.0 Moon 48.0 Clear; moderate S. wind. Sunset 24.0 6 Suntise 16 Sky unclouded; light breeze SW. Noon 37.0 Sky unclouded; calm. Sunset 26.0 Oh. 25m. p. m. - 37.6 Tempnraiurt of boiling water 200°.5; calm. 7 Sunrise 9.5 Sunset 28.0 Sky perfectly clear the whole day; light variable wind. 8 Sunrise — 2.5 — 2.0 Sun shining full on high peaks. 0.0 Sun shining full on valley; sky cloudless; calm. 3h. 40m. p.m. ■ 38.0 Ttmperulurei'fbtnliiig water 1^9^.7; light easterly breeze; nea:iy clear. Sunwt 36.0 Wind east; whitish clouds rising in the horizon. 9 28.5 Just before sunrise. Sunrise 29.0 Strong SW. wind; light scud, driving rapidly. Noon 44.0 Moderate ^^ SW. wind; nearly clear; a few vnnd clouds in W. Sunset 24.0 Wind variable; neariy clear; a few wind clouds in W. 10 36.0 30m. before sunrise. Sunrise 35.0 Nearly calm; cloudy in SW. Noon 42 Wind SB.; white clouds in W. Oh. 65m.p. m. - 42 5 Tempera'ure of bo'ling water 199^.5; moderate SE. wind; sky nearly clear. Sunset 37.0 Moderate StJ. wind; sky partially overcast. 8' . p. m. 39.0 11 1 Sunrise 33.0 Entirely overcast.- wind shifting. Noon 35.0 Clouds breaking away; violent gusts of wind fron W, Sunset 33.5 Clearing off; moderate wind N. 80° W. 12 Sunrise 32.3 Culm; sky nearly clear. Sunset 35 Sky clear; gentle W breeze. 8h. p. m. 33.0 13 r 34.0 30m. before suniisc. Sunrise 3;J (/aim; cumuli in E. ; sun faint. Sunset 35.0 Overcast; calm. 14 Sunrise 21.0 Sky clear; moderate westerly wind. Sunset 32..'} Calm; sky nearly clear. 15 Sunrise 31.0 Calm; clouds in SW.; sun faint. Noon 41.0 ('aim; watery clouds mo-ing from SW. to NE. Sunset 31.5 Calm; sky nearly clear. 16 Sunrise .so.o Wind S W. ; rain clouds in E. Sunset 33.0 Clear; modcr.itc S wind- 17 Sunrise 23.0 Entirely clear; calm. Sunset 32.0. Entirely clear; calm. 18 1 Sunrise 22. 5 Sky very clear; nearly calm. Sunset 31.0 ("aim; rain clouds in W. 10 Sunrise r 23.0 Cloudless sky; calm. Sunset 32.0 Cloudless sky; gentle breeze S. 60° E. 20 Sunrise 22.0 (.Jlear; calm. Sunset 37.0 Sky clear; brisk wind S. 70^ W. lh.41m. p. m. - 47.0 Temperature of bailing wciUr 197°. 5; moderate wind S. 68° W. 21 Sunrise 32.0 Moderate W. wind; scattered watery cloud». Noon 46.0 CumuU all over the heavens; nearly calm; snow filling on the mountains behind; rain on t.ie edge of the valley beyond. Sunset 30.0 Sky still cloudy; strong brooie N. 65° E. 37 •■ i^' .Y • 'i ; \ ♦ill I'lii. C 174 ] 578 Table of observations with the t/iermometer — Continued. Date. Time. Thermometer 1844 Dii^. Falir. Feb. 22 Sunrise - 29.0 Noon - 40 Ih. 15ni. p. m. - 37.5 Sunset ^ 31.0 23 Sunrise . 26.0 Sunset - 48.0 24 Sunrise . 27.0 2h. 45m. p m. • co.o Marth 9 Sunset . P2 lU Sunrise - 34 Sunset « 63.0 4h. 20m. p. m. - 64.0 11 Sunrise _ 45.0 Sunset - 56.0 12 Sunrise 31 Sunset 63.0 13 Sunrise 3.).0 Noon 75.0 Sunset 68.0 14 Sunrise 45.0 Sunset 76.0 15 Sunrise 44.0 Sunset 74.0 16 ^unrise 40.0 Noon 84.0 Sunset 58.0 17 Sunrise 46.0 Sunset 63.0 ' 18 Sunrise 380 Sunset 64.0 10 ^-'unrisc 41.0 Sunset 68.0 20 Sunrise 40.0 Noon 81.0 Noon 96.0 Sunset 70.0 21 Sunrise - 41.0 Sunset - 64 22 Sunrise aeo Sunset 64.0 23 Sunrise 44.0 Sunset 63.0 24 Sunrise . 42 Sunset . 54.0 25 Sunrise 45.0 Sunset • 63.0 26 Sunrise 36.0 Sunset f'S.O 27 Sunrise 45.0 Sunset 60. 28 Sunrise 44.0 29 Sunrise 36.0 Sunset 60.0 30 Sunrise 53.0 Noon S.-i.O Sunset 66.p 31 Sunrise 51.0 Noon • 62.0 Remaiks. Sun faint; moderate wind N. 56° E. liight watery clouds in S.; wind N. 40° E. TeinpirctureiifbdLn^waLr 198°. 7; watery clouds in S.; calm. Sky nearly calm; wind N. 50° E. • umuli around tlie iiorizon; moderate 8. wind. Sky clear; calm. Sky clear; wind E. Ti in/ernltire of builliig water 206°; sky clear; ligh: breeze from N. Light grayish clouds in S.; moderate SE. wind. Light grayish clouds; sky clear; calm. Sky cloudy; wind SVV. Tf.mperiifure i/ boiling water 211°. 6; brisk , wind; sky nearly clear. Sky partially overcast; slight rain falling. Sky clear; no air stirring. Sky unclouded; calm. Clear sky; iM'isk SVV. wind. No clouds visible; calm. Strong westerly breeze Light watjry cloud , floating in hor. ; wind from NW Mdderate wind N. 10° W.; unclouded. Clear; perfectly calm. Calm and cbudless. Reddish clouds around the setting sun Ni) wind; sky clear. No air stirrini;; clear Sky clear; calm Slight hnze in N. ; calm ( leur; calm. < Clear; calm. Skj unclouded; no wind. Few scattorinj? clouds in W Calm; unclouded. In shade; while clouds in E. In sun; slight breeze N. 10° E. Clear sky; no wind. Sky cloudy; calm. Dark clouds in E.; wind N. 70° W Scattered wind clouds; wind W. Very cloudy; winds. 10° E. Sky nearly clear; moderate S »V. wind Reddish clouds in W.; wind SW. Sky clear; calm. Clear; wind S. 80° W. Cloudy in E.; sun faint; calm. Cloudy in horizon; gentle westerly breeze Sun fanit; partially oveicast. Calm; nearly clear. Sivy overcast; no wind. Very cloudy; appearance of rain; high W. wine Calm; dear. Few dark clouds in E.j calm. Cloudy; sun faint. Overcast; slight rain falling. Incessant rain; moderate wind S. 15° W Sky clouded; wind SW. Heavy loin; wind S. 80° W, Date. 1844. .War. 31 Su •April 1 Su Su 2 Su No Sur 3 Su. Sur 4 Sun Sun 5 Sun Sun 6 Sun Noo Noo Suns 7 Sunr 8 Sunt Suns 9 Sunn Sunsc 10 Sunri Suiisc 11 Sunri Sunsc 12 Sunris Sunse 13 Sunris Sunse 14 Sunris Sjnsct 15 Sunris ^unsit 16 Sunris Sunset 17 Suiiris ^8 Suiiris Sunset '9 Sunrise 20 Sunset Sunrise 21 Sunrise Noon No.,.i Sunset 22 Sunrise Su set Sunset 23 Sunrise Sunset 579 [ 174 ] nned. Table of observations with the thermometer — Contiiined. 'E. N. 40° E. i°.7; watery clouds G. Icrate S. wind. 06°; sky clear-, Ugh: lerate SE. wind. 1 calm. r 211°. 6; brisk . tin falling. hor.i wind from NW ncloudeU. ing 3urs '0° W IW l«V. wind Isw. Isterly breeze \m high W. wine S. 15° W Date. Time. Thermometer. Wet bulb. Remarks. 1844. Ui(r. Fa/ir. Deg. Vlar. 31 Sunset 58.0 Clearing off; wind SW. April 1 Sunrise 52.0 - Sky nearly clear; calm. Sunset 60 - Dark clouds coming up in W.; calm 2 Sunrise 48.0 - (Moudy; liprht easterly wind. Nonn 62.0 - R;iin from SW.; overcast. SunsPt 54.0 — Urisk wind S. 15° E ; clearing off. 3 Sunrise 43.0 - Sky nearly clear; wind E. Sunset 56.0 Few clouds in SE.; strong breeze N- 6 1° W. 4 Sunrise 41 Sli!Tht rain fai'ing; wind S. 60° W. Sunset 6(1.0 - Hiiining; wind from SW. 5 Sunrise 37.0 ~ Sky clear, calm. Sunset 68 ■" Sky clcir; calm. C Sunrise 35.0 Sky cloiitllessi no wind. Noon 90.0 - Ill shade. Noon 98.0 - In sun; sky nearly clear; light SE. Iireeze. Sunset 72.0 -, Wind S 40° E ; cloudy in NE. 7 Sunri.-o 49.0 - Kiiiningf: overclouded. 8 Sunrise 3ft _ Wind N 60° W : sky nearly clear. Sunset 5-^.0 Heavy clouds in W. ; raodcratu wind S. 80° W. 9 Sunrise 38.0 Sky clca' and calm. Sunset 02.0 - U.irk cumuli in W. ; light breeze N. 55<» W. 10 Sunrise 30. - Perfertly rjpnr; no air stirring. Sunset 5ii.O - Nearly clear; calm. 11 Sunrise 37. - Sky ()v,>rcu.st; calm. Sunset 57.0 - ' Iiudy in horizon; high tfind in N. 45' W. 12 Sunrise 32-" _ Smnky; sun faint; calm. Sunset 62 - Dense smoke; sun oliscured. 13 Sunrise 45.0 _ Smoky ap|icaranco cniitinues; sun faint. Sunset .S2.0 - Sky nearly clear; calm. 14 Sunrise 40 - Clear and cdm Sjnsct 53.0 _ Moderito vvmd N. 80° W. ; clear. 15 Sunrise 40.0 - Clear sky; no wind. Sunset Sfi.O _ High wind 8. 15° E.; unclouled. 16 Sunris" 49 _ Clear; moderate win.l S 20° E. Sunset 54.0 _ Brisk breeze S. 30° E.; clear. 17 Sunrise 40.0 - Moderate wind S. 30= E.; clou-iy in E. 18 Sunrise 52.0 - Masses of clouds over the skv; light breeze S 60° W. Sunset 43 « Clouds over setting Sim; wind S. 80° W. 19 Sunrise 30.0 - Moderate wind S. SO^ W.; sky nearly clear. Sunset 54.9 - Sky overcast; clouds in NW.; wind S. 60^ W. 20 Sunrise 47 D.irk cumuli in E.; moderate wind S. 70° W. Dense mist greater part of the day; cold SW. wind. 21 Sunrise 47 - Hazy; sun faint; strong wind N. 80° W. IVT IV oon 74.0 _ In shade No ..1 82 _ In sun; sky clear; wind N. 80° W. Sun>et ."iS.O - Sky clear;"brisk wind N. 8ii° W. 22 Sunrise 47 - Perfectly clear; u;entle westerly breeze. Su set 60.0 - bright sunset; moderate west wind. Sunset ^ "■ 'J'empe'"fure "f bo I ns to ter 208°5. 23 Sunrise 3e.5 38.0 Clear except in E ; cold wind N. 70° W. Sunset 64.0 50.0 1 Sky coveied with watery cl'ds; wind W. ...4:-: >^ [ 174 ] 680 Table of observations with the thermometer — Continued. Date. Time. Thermometer Wet bulb. 1844. Dcg. Falir. Dg. April 24 Sunrise 4H.0 4.1.0 Noon 7H.0 69 Sunset GG 5S.5 25 Sunrise 51. 5 48 Sunset 63 57.0 26 Sunrise 42.0 4:?.0 Noon 900 85.0 Sunstt 80.5 71 27 Suniise 41.0 45 iSoon 90.5 78.0 28 Sunrise G6.0 59.6 Sunset 52.0 48.5 29 Sunrise 46.0 47.5 Noon C9.0 58.0 Sunset 57.0 54 5 30 Sunrise 44.5 439 Sunset 60.5 54.0 May 1 Sunilse 40 5 42.0 Sunsot ! S6.0 48.0 2 Sunrise 32 35 5 Sunset 55.5 50.0 3 Suiiri.xc 30.0 31.0 Siyiset 67.0 6:J.0 4 Sunrise 38.0 41.5 52.0 - 6 Sunrise 42.0 41.0 Noon 104 85.0 Sunset 66.0 50.0 Sunrise 41.0 40.0 6h. 20in. p. m. 70 - Sunset 70.5 69 7 Sunrise 42.0 40.0 Sunsrt 76 67 8 Sunrise 42.5 42.0 Sunset 7()-0 69.0 9 Sunrise 68 56.5 '/O.O — Noon 94.0 85.5 Sunset 70.0 60.0 10 Sunrise 3.T 41.6 35.0 - Sunset 5(i.O ."i^.O 11 Sunrise 5.3.5 52.0 Sunset 53.0 50.0 12 Sunrise 14.0 46.5 70.0 - Sunset -16.0 45 13 Sunrise .31.5 33 Sunset 56.0 BJ.O Rcmaiks. Clouds in E.; modcrote W. wind. Clear; brisk wind S. 80° W. Clouds breaking away after a sprinkling I of rain. Nearly clear; calm. Clouds in N. calm. Perfectly clear: rnlm. Sky cler.r; shifting breeze. Dark clouds in the N., calm. Clear; calm. Thin white clouds in horizon; southerly! breeze ut intervals. Nearly cl."r; calm. Heavy clouds in NE.; strong wind S.l 15° W. Scattered clouds; calm; temperature of fp'ing lite I 06°. Cl.)uds; wind brisk S. 30° W. Cloudy; moderate wind S. 20° W. Cloudy in E.; cold wind S. 80° E. Bright sunset; calm; cumuli on nc mountains. Very clear; calm. Cidin; brilliant sunset. Clear; calm. < lear; calm. Clear; calm. Clear; calm. Clear; light breeze N. 70° W. lemperalure vj ^ ^.^^^^z/^,. yp^/ng 71°. Clear; calm. Clear; breeze at intervals. Clear; shifting breeze. Clear; calm. Tempt rature ofboil'ng water 205°. 7. 1 Li(;ht white clouds in E.; calm. Clear; calm. , Calm; slight haze. Clear; moderate wind S. 40° W. Clouds in E. ; calm. Teinpcralun: (if SI ring 76°. Large masses of white cloud in NE.| high wind S. 7i.° W. Clear; slight breeze S 75° W. Clear; calm. Temperntiirc nf river 48°. Clear; nearly calm. Sky mottled with dark purple cloud^ moderate wind N. 8(1° W.; shower 1 rain between 6h. and 7h. a. m. Dark clouds over the sky; brisk wind^ 111° E. Eastern sky clouded; breeze N. 15° Temper (ilurr (if lioi/imr water 203° few white clouds on blue sky; ra do a|e wind N. 40° E. Clear; calm. Sky perfectly clear; calm. Bright suniet{ southerly breeze. • Date. 1841. May 14 S IN S 16 8 S 16 8 >rotc W. wind. I. m" W. lay after a sprinkling j in horizon; southerly 1 Is. NE.; strong wind S.j calm; tempirutun of 4 s. no" w. ! wind S. 20= W. Ul wind S. 80° E. aim; cumuli on ne ;e N. 70» W. Large spring 73<», Smaller spring T^°A boil'ng water 205°. 7. dsinE.;cahn. m. J th dark purple cloud* N. Hii° W. ; shower H h. and 7h. a. m. the sky ; brisk wind r« 581 [ 174 ] Table of observations with the thermometer — Continued. Date. Time. Thermometer. 1841. May 14 | Sunrise Noon 15 16 17 18 19 20 Sunret 8untise Sunset Sunrise Sunset Sunrise Sunset Sunrise Woiin i^unset i i^uiirise Sunset Sunrise Noon 30 31 June 1 2 Sunset Sunrise Sunxet Sunrise Sunset Sunrise Sunset Sunrise Sunset Sunrise Sunrise Sunset Sunrise Sunset Sunrise SuQS«t Sunset 21 I Sunrise Sunset 22 Sunrise Sunset 23 Sunrise Sunset 24 '-unrise Sunset 26 Sunrise Sunset 2G Sunrise Sunset 27 Sunrise Sunsi't 28 Sunrise I Sunset 29 Sunrise Oh. lam. p. m. De^. Fuhr. 42.0 83.0 6.5.0 41. .5 61 32 02.0 33.0 62.0 46.0 4H.0 6:).U 29 5 60.0 39.0 8d5 48.. "i 4.5.5 70 f)6.0 e.-i.O 44.0 4.5.0 41.5 47.5 30.5 65.0 44 64.0 44.0 4 1.0 3.1.0 46 2'J 5 66.0 4.'>.0 36 bS.li 31.5 54 48.5 62.0 46.0 61.0 42.0 4:<.0 (6.0 48.0 6.S.0 44.5 72.0 Wet bull. Remtitks. We;'. 416 68 6 60.0 41.0 68.0 3: 5 48.0 36.0 48.0 42.5 .52 60 5 32 43 390 47 5 4H.5 61.0 62.0 50.0 43.5 41.0 42.5 48.0 36.0 «2.0 45.6 60.0 46.0 4H.0 .3l>.5 46.5 33.0 I 45 5 95. .54.5 36.0 .53.5 49.0 50.0 4.5.0 68.0 41.0 42.0 62 47.0 62.0 41.6 61.0 Clear; moderate wind S. 30° W. White bank of clouds in N. • strong wind 8. 30° W. Sky nearly clear; wind high, S. 30° W, Scattered clouds; calm. Cloudy in horizon; moderate S. wind. Nearly dear; wind S. Very cloudy ; few drops of rain; high N. wind. Cloudy in horizon; calm. Very cloudy; appearance of rain; wind S. 70" W. Overcast; heavy rain; wind 8. 65° W. Heavy and incessant rain; wind S. 65° W. Clearing off; wind N. ;J0° E. Nearly clear; wind N. 20° E. Cloudy in hoiiznn; calm. I'crlectly clear: calm. leni/ierafuri «/' boilin'x witter 203°; sky cli ar; breeze S. 3o° W, Nearly clear; calm. Clear; calm. Very cloudy; mild S. wind. Keddish cl mds in E.; brisk S. wind. Cloudy; wind S. Cloudy in horizon; cold S. wind. Scattered clouds; calm. Sky overcast, few drops of rain. Si.y nearly clear; calm. Perfectly clear; calm. Sky clear; calm; Utah lake. Sky overcast; calm. Very cloudy; high wind N. 20° E. Clouded; ajipearance of rain; calm. Bright sunset; clear. ('lear; calm. Sky very clear; calm. Clear and calm Station on Uintah waters, 1,500 feet below tliH pass in the dividinsj ridge between the waters of W hite and Uintah rivers; tem- perut.re if Onilng wukr 201". 3; sky very elear and calm. Perfectly cle.ir; calm. Sky clear; calm. Clear; no air stirring. Clear; ealm. Clear; calm Clouded in E ; cnlni. Very cloudv ; sprinkling of rain; brisk wind N. 70° VV. Srattpred clouds; calm. t.'louds in horizon; moderate wind N. 30° W. • lear and calm. [ Clear and calm. IJrigbt sunset; calm. ^ Clear; calm. Clear; calm. Clear; calm. Cl«ar; moderate wind N. 45° E. 'f; '4 i i If il I 174 ] 582 Table o/ observations with the thermometer — Continued. Dale. 'J'ime. Thciinomcter Wet bulb. 1814. Deg. Fahr. Dcg. J unu 6 7h. 45m. p. ra. 71.0 — t Sunrige 62.0 50.0 Sunact 75 72.0 8 Sunrise 45.0 48.0 Noon 80.0 75.0 Sunset 7U 68.0 9 Sunrise 44.5 44.0 Sunset 72.0 68.0 10 Sunrise 33.0 38.0 Sunset 6.3.0 59.0 11 Sunrise .2.0 37.5 Sa.iset io.,';' 57 12 Sunrise 40.0 420 SunsRt 60.0 57.0 13 Sunrise 36.0 38.0 ih. p. m 76.5 - 14 Sunrise 44.0 43.0 Sunset 76 66.0 15 Sunrise 42 42.5 Sunset 54.5 53 16 Sunrise 34.0 36.0 Sunset 51.0 52.0 17 Sunrise 29.0 3ri.O 18 Sunrise 42.0 42 5 19 - 63.0 ~ Sunset 68 64.0 20 Sunrise 3it.O 36.0 Sunset 49.5 48.5 21 Sunrise 400 39.0 Sunset 60. ."i - 22 JNoon 70.0 "* Sunset 49.0 49.0 1 23 Sunrise m.'i 31.0 [ 26 i Sunset 46.0 50 27 Sunrise 38.0 40.0 .•* unset 62.0 57.5 28 Sunrise 42.0 44.0 Sunset 71.0 1 71 5 29 Sunrise 44.0 i 46.0 Sunset 74.5 72.5 30 Sunrise 5fi.O 55 Sunset 78.5 7H.0 lu ly 1 Sunrise 61.0 61 if Sunset 81.0 80.0 2 Sunrise 60.0 60.0 Noon 85.0 84.0 Sunset 84.0 fc' ■3 1 Sunrise 66.0 06.5 Rcmarlis. Temperature nfbnilinir watr 200°. 7; skyl cli'ar; moderate win I N 45° E. Si5 Sunrise Noon Sunset 16 Sunrise 1 i 1 Sunset 17 Sunrise Sunset 18 , Sunrise inued. 583 [ 174 ] Table ofobservatinns inith the thermomcler — Continued. " ■ !l ^^■- ■ ■ Thermometer. Wet bulb. ■"" — - sBi^"^" Time. Remarks. ^^^^H T 1844. 1 Deg. Falir. D,g. ^H Hjune Sunset 80.0 78.5 Sky clouded; thunder ana lightning. wa<>r 200°. 7; iky^l 4 Sunrise 70 5 70 5 Clouds in E. ; calm. V 4.5° E. JM Sunset 82 77.0 Few drops of rain; calm. JN. 45-'E. H 6 Sunrise 66.0 66.0 Clear and calm. water 204°; very^H Sunset 1 _ Heavy rain; NW. wind ^H 6 Sunrise C2.0 63 Sky ivertrast; calm. ^H Sunset 75.0 73.5 Clouds in horizon; calm te winds. 8U° VV.H 7 Sunrise 65.5 65.5 Very cloudy; calm. the sky. ^H Sunset 80.0 78.0 Western sky clouded; calm. ^H 8 Sunrise 64. .5 64.5 Fair; calm. stern .horizon) light ^H Noon 91.0 89.0 Sky clear and calm. ^H Sunset 81.0 80.0 Sky partially overcast; calm; thunder and ^H lightning, with heavy rain between lOh lerate wind N. 40° ^| and llh. p. m. ^H 3 ' Sunrise 68.0 66.5 Nearly clear; culm. ^H Sunset 79.5 76.0 Clear; no air stirring. ; moderate wind S- ^^ 10 Suiftise 63.0 61. Few clouds; calm. ^B Sunset 82.5 80.0 Clouds passing off' after a thunder •' wer. ^H U Sunrise 68.0 70.0 Sky clear; calm. derate wind S. 40° H Sunset 79 76 5 Storm coming up from westward. ■ 12 Sunrise 70.0 70.0 Thin watery clouds moving fro"- SW ,o NE.; breeze variable. water i99°.5; calm; ^| Sunset 88.0 86.0 Cumuli in W. ; wind S. 10° E. lorizon ^H 13 Sunrise 73.0 72 Sky nearly clear; moderate wind S. 30° E. ^H ! Sunset 8(;.0 79.5 Scattered clouds; calm. ■ 14 i Sunset fif.O 80.0 Clouded every where except in the zenith; slight breeze S. 4o° E. r water 200°; s!cy H 15 : Sunrise 72.0 70.0 Sky cloudy; sun faint. arcczc. ^H Noon 79.0 78 5 Sky entirely overcast; calm. ^1 Sunset 76.0 75.0 Sun and clouds; calm. ^1 16 i Sunrise 70.5 70.0 Cloudy; appearance of rain. ■ Sunset 73.5 74 0- Cloudy every where except around the set- ting sun; drops of rain; calm. t;a/er201°.6;clear; H 1 7 Sunrise 68.0 68.0 Part'ally overcast; calm. ^1 Sunset 811.0 79.0 Sky char; moderate wind S. 25° W. I 18 Sunrise 1 68.5 68.0 White clouds in horizon; moderate wind S. 16° W. H Sunsel 72,0 71.5 Clouds rising in eastward; high wind S. 40° ^1 W. ; shifting breeze. ^| 19 Sunrise 60.0 61.5 Sun faint; partially overcast; cold wind 8. 6IIU feet below the H 45° E. of boiliiv^ water ■ Sunset 69 66.0 Sky nearly clear; calm. y breeze. ^| 20 Sunrise 53 54.5 Sky clear, except in horizon; calm. wind variable H Sunset 73. 5 71.0 Sky nearly clear; slight breeze S. 35° E. 1 21 1 Sunrise 611.0 61.0 Sky clear; calm. H 1 Sunset 78.0 76.0 Sky almost dear; calm. fl 23 Sunrise 68.0 690 Cloudy, except in the zenith; calm. H j Sunset 80.0 78.0 Wind clouds in W. ; moderate wind S. 30° E. H 23 j Sunrise 65 64.0 Clear and calm. H Sunset 74 74 5 I Low dark clouds in N.; high wind S. 45° E. H 24 ■ Sunrise 64.0 P4 Sky clear; calm. H Sunset (') . 82 81.0 Few clouds; moderate wind S. H 25 Sunrise 68.0 67.0 Overcast; shifting breeze. e wind N. 60° E. ■ 2h. p. ni. 83.0 fl 26 1 Sunrise 70 70.5 Very clouded; calm. ■ ! 2h. p. m. 82. - Clear; slight breeze. s 27 i Sunrise 70 71.0 Very much overcast; calm. H ; 2h. p. ra. 84.0 in \V.; high wind ■ 28 ; Sunrise 70.0 70 5 Misty and calm. ■ ! 2h. p. m. 100.0 — Clear; no breeze. ! whole sky; calm ■ 29 ; Sunrise 72.0 71.0 Clear; calm. EXPEDI (» li *, J 1 ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS MADE DUBINO THE EXPEDITION TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS IN THE YEAR 184S. V f i 36 1 '4 ) 1 1 1 i 1 It I I* > .w ■ \ f I I tT.:i C 174] 5S6 8T. I.orilS— RByiDKNCK OF COLONEI, J. 1). IIHANT. Deiermination of time, May 24, isig — ulliludr. of the sun. OUSEHVATIONS. Doublti ultitudt; of t^c lower limb of the huh. Time of chroiiomote r. (Ro libaiik.) ■I'.S 41 40 ml». 4 'J \'i 30 ue. 30 10 h. tnin. 3i U 36 38 IfC. S4 54 RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. h. mill. see. 6 13 40 h. mill. gee. 1 2!{ 35 Iionffittide. Determination of longiturfe, May 27, 1842 — altitude of Vega. OBSERVATIONS. F1R8T HERIER. SBCOXU SBRIES. Double idtitude of Vega. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of Time of chronomel No. 7,810. Vega. No. 7,810 Deif. min. sec. //. ffit'n. see. Des. min. see. h. min. fee. 87 03 20 3 67 43 90 43 30 4 06 41 88 04 60 3 69 31 91 17 20 4 08 10 88 50 10 4 01 31 92 01 50 4 10 09 89 22 20 4 03 01 92 39 40 4 11 5t 89 64 20 4 04 25 93 22 10 4 13 46 Thermometer 66", RESULT OP CALCULATION ■ Mean time. Advance. Longitude. I 1. min 1. tee. h. min. sec. i 7eg. min. tee. 10 16 36 6 49 01 90 15 61 EN('AMPME.\ THE KA\Z ME.YICO. Double altitude sun's lower li Deg. min. 1 53 19 52 64 52 39 52 22 52 02 f the su}x. gr. (Ro.liliank.) »re. S4 54 Iiongitude. r.S7 C ''4] ST. LoiJia— KEsiDKNrn OF coi.om:i. J. n. hrant. r Determination of lulilwli-, May 27, 1^42 — ullilmlt of Polaris. nuSEIIVATIONS. T)(iiil)le iiltituilfl of Piilari8. /)/■;'. min. »ec. 71 38 20 74 :»9 10 74 40 10 Tiiiu" ofi'lirorioiiicter. A. min. .v>r 4 3!) 27 1 :'2 11 4 3fi 80 Index error —. — '*0 bo;-. Ur;3ULT OK CALCULATION. True nltitude. Det^. mm. see. .17 18 12 Latitude Drir. mm. nee. 38 37 24 * ii ufie of rega. ERIEB. Time of No. chronomel 7,810. h. 4 4 4 4 4 min. tee. 06 41 08 10 10 09 11 5« 13 46 Longitude. Deg. min. ue. 90 16 61 E.\(;AMPMENT AT CHOUTEAU'S LOWEK TUADING HOUSE. HlfiHT DANK OP THE KANZAS RIVEK, 700 FEET AHOVE THE LEVEL OF THE GULP OF MEXICO. [From this dsile, iij) to the 24th of Au;;ust, tlie Urot-itbank poi-krt iilirouonieter was used in not- ing time ] Determination of longiiiic/e, June U, IS42 — aitifnde of the sun. OBSEnVATIOXS. KtRST SERIKS. Double altitude of the i Time of chronometer, sun's lower limb. (Brockbank.) SECOND SERIES. Def^. min. fee- 53 19 00 64 ."iO 39 35 22 2.5 02 50 52 52 52 52 Mean time. h. min. see. 4 67 S2 h. min. 6 29 30 31 32 32 sec. 32.5 300 15.6 Ol.O 51.0 Index error = — 25 sec. RKSULT OV CALCULATION. Double altitude of the Time of chronometer. sun's lower limb. (Brockbank.) Dcfr. luin. see. h. min. tee. rA 21 30 6 34 39.6 51 02 20 6 35 30.0 50 1.^ &y 6 3G 12a .:>o 24 00 6 37 lO.O 50 10 00 6 37 45.7 Advance. h. min. aee. 1 36 26 Longitude. De^. min. aee. 94 39 31 [ 174 ] 588 ENCAMPMENT AT CHOUTEAU'S LOWEil TRADING HOUSE. RIGHT BANK OF THE KANZA8 RIVER, 700 PEET ABOVE THE LEVEL OF THE GULF OF MEXICO. Determination of latitude, June 9, 184^ — altitude of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitude of Polaris. Deg. min. sec. 76 24 50 75 25 05 75 26 00 75 26 20 75 27 00 75 28 40 75 28 50 75 28 10 75 30 40 75 ao 50 'J'ime of chronometer. h. win. ser. 3 29 59 3 31 50 8 33 35 3 35 22 8 37 00 8 38 44 8 40 42 8 42 05 8 44 14 3 46 07 Thermometer 55°. KESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mcan time. Latitude. De^. mill. sec. 37 42 26 A. min. sec. 9 31 43 Deg. min. sec. 39 05 53 June 9, 1842- -altitude of ^intares in the meridian. Double altitude of Antarcs. True altitude. 1 Latitude. 1 Deg. min. see. 49 42 50 Deg. min. sec. 24 49 17 Deg. min. sec. 1 39 06 00 1 Deg. 37 m, RIGHT BANK OP i OF THE GULF OF I de of Polaris. chronometer. niin. sec. 29 59 31 50 33 35 35 22 37 00 38 44 40 42 42 05 44 14 46 07 Latitude. Deg. miti. 39 05 sec. 53 meridian. Latitude ■ Deg. min. 39 06 sec. 00 589 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT ON THE LEFT BANK OF THE KANZAS RIVER. Determination of longitude, June 16, 1S42 — altitude of the sun. OBSURVATIONS. FIHHT 8KRIRS. 8ECOXU HEIIIEH. Double altitude of the Time of chronometer. T/uuliie altitude of the Time of chronometer. lower limb of the 8un. lower limb of the sun. Deg. min. nee. h. miu. sec. Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec. 56 40 00 V, 26 31.5 53 37 50 6 34 260 56 13 55 6 27 41.5 53 21 45 6 35 07.7 55 63 15 6 28 34.0 I 53 08 00 6 35 47.0 55 35 20 6 29 22.0 52 49 55 6 36 38.7 55 16 55 « 30 10.0 . 52 30 30 1 6 37 23.0 RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. Determination of lutitude, June 16, 1842 — altitude of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitude of Polariii. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. see. 75 31 20 10 63 40 76 32 fO to 66 14 76 84 20 10 58 42 • 76 34 20 00 39 76 34 55 02 30 • 76 36 60 04 30 76 37 00 06 16 76 37 30 08 16 76 37 56 09 43 76 39 40 12 59 ide. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altiH Mean time. Latitude Deg. nun. sec. h. min. nee. Deg. min. see. 37 46 42 9 22 30 39 06 40 f. '■' i. i^'^y [ 171 ] 590 ENCAMPMENT ON THE LEFT BANK OF THE KANZAS RIVEK. De/ennination of latilnde^ June IG, 1842 — altitude of o. Jlquilx. OBSERVATIONS. riRST > IKRIKR. Time of chroiiomettT. ' SECOND SKRIES. Double altitude of a AquiliE. Double altitu'le of a \ Aquilae. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. 50 14 00 61 11 20 61 62 20 h. 11 11 11 min. 26 28 3t> sec. 08 42 28 Deg. m'n. sec. bi 43 40 53 29 00 54 17 40 h. min. sec. 11 32 46 11 34 42 11 36 49 RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. h. min. sec. 9 50 47 Advance h. min. sec. 1 40 48 Longitude. Deg. min. sec. 90 10 06 ENCAMPMENT ON LITTLE VERMnXION CREEK. Determiii'ition of longitiide, June 18, 1842 — altitude of the sun. OpSERVATIONS. Index error = — 35 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Deter D Trufi Deg I 37 PCAMPME ] Detern FIKHT 8KRIKS. 1 lointiler. i : ECOND SERIES. ouble altitude Double altitude of the Time of chroi Double altitude of the Time of chronometer. lower limb of tlie sun. 1 lower limb of the sun. lower limb of t Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec. Deg. min. see. h. min. sec. Deg. min. 38 16 40 41 00 7 10 41 39 05 00 7 14 68.0 40 19 20 7 It 38 38 43 50 7 15 52.6 37 69 40 01 00 7 12 2(55 1 38 30 10 7 16 30.0 37 43 39 44 10 7 13 11.5 38 13 50 7 17 14.0 37 24 39 19 40 7 14 17.5 1 >8 00 00 7 17 60,0 36 46 Mean time. Advance. Longitude. Mean h. m'n. sec. 5 32 18 //. win. sec. .1 42 10 Z>€if. min. sec. 96 36 40 h. mil 5 39 HBbSHt! • flniiK)' RIVEK. if a Aquilsr.. HIEM. 'imc of chronometer. //. min. sec. 1 1 3i 46 11 34 42 11 36 49 Iiongitude. ^. mm. sec. 6 10 06 3EK. le of the sun. EBIC8. Time of chronometer. 591 [ 174 3 ENCAMPMENT ON LITTLE VERMILLION CREEK. Delermina/ion of latitude, June 18, 1812 — altitude oj Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double iiltitude of Polarin. Time of chronometer. Deg. iry 75 75 75 75 min. 49 50 61 62 53 sec. 00 20 40 20 20 h. 10 10 10 10 10 min. 44 48 51 53 55 sec. 04 08 48 34 09 RESULT OF CALCULATION. J Tru«• — 42 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Longitude. Mean time. Advar«'e. Loutfilude. «<(•. mtn. sec 96 36 40 h. min. sec. 5 39 43 /(. min. sec. 1 . 42 41 Deg. min. sec. 96 48 05 [ 174] 592 ENCAMPMENT ON A TRIBUTARY OF THE BIG VERMILLION I'REF.K, l,3ho FEET ABOVE THE LEVEL OF THE GULF OF MEXICO. DcterhJiiaiion of latitude, June 19, 1842 — altitude of t'olarit OBSERVATIONS. Double altitude of Polaris. Deg. mitt. «ee. 76 19 30 76 21 00 76 23 00 76 24 40 76 24 20 76 26 15 76 27 20 76 27 60 76 28 50 76 39 50 Time of chronometer. h. mm. sec 10 40 52 10 44 61 10 48 53 10 63 06 10 56 47 10 68 58 11 00 26 11 01 49 11 04 36 11 06 62 RESfTLT iW CALCULATION. True altitude. Deg. min. tee. 38 11 07 Mean time. h. min. see. 9 13 II Latitude. Deg. min. tee. 39 -10 40 Double altitu Aquil Deg. min. W 34 5' 19 52 11 593 [ "4] [OW IREFK, 1,850 5XIC0. t-^. mtn. tec. •10 40 iSl^rfiPMENT ON THE LrTTLR BLI'B RIVER, !,«00 FEET \BOVE THE LEVEL OF THE GULF OF MEXICO. t Determination of latitude, June 25, 1842 — altitude of Polaris OBS£UV^ATIONS. Double altitude of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. mtn. tee. h. min. tee. 78 16 20 10 36 14 78 16 45 10 40 50 78 17 60 10 43 36 78 19 25 10 46 14 78 20 15 10 46 67 78 20 20 10 48 25 78 20 50 10 49 46 78 21 25 10 51 23 78 22 16 10 52 40 78 23 10 10 54 17 Index error = -^ 25 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Deg. min. sec. 39 09 00 Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 40 26 66 Determinatian of langitude, June 25, 1842 — altitude ofo, Aquilx. OBSERVATIONS. FIRST 8ERIB!). 8EC0KD ■■HIES. Double altitude Aquile. of a Time of chronometer. Double altitude of a Aqriic. Time of chronometer. 1kg. min. M 34 h\ 19 52 11 sec. 40 10 15 A. min. tec. 11 01 45.0 11 03 47.3 11 06 07.0 Deg. min. see. 53 06 20 53 40 07 54 27 15 h. min. seo. 11 08 34.0 11 10 05.5 11 12 11.0 • RESULT OP CALCULATION. Longitude. Dfg. min. sec. 98 6 . 07 Mr n ,,u» S'r^ i I'll' tllli \ ^^■^:'^:li- [ 174 ] 594 ENCAMPMENT GN THE LITTLE BLUE RIVER. Detcrminntiun oflatiludey June 35, 1843 — altitude of Jinthres near the meridian. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitude of Antares. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. see. A. min. sec. 45 65 30 11 18 02 46 03 00 It 19 42 46 28 50 U 26 26 46 27 30 11 27 46 46 32 20 11 30 04 RESULT OF CALCULATION. I -:>%. ;: c- True altitude. M«an time. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 23 28 33 - Deg. min. tee. 40 26 48 't-rAk' ithres near the 695 [ 174 ] IflRST ENCAMPMENT ON THE RIGHT BANK OP PT.ATTE RIVER, 1,970 FEET ABOVE THE LEVEL OF THE GULF OF MEXICO. Determination of latitude, Jutie 26, 1842 — altitude of Polaris. A OUSERVATIONS. Double altitude of Folarifl. De^. tnin. see 7a 06 15 79 07 10 79 09 20 79 09 35 79 10 46 79 11 30 79 12 30 79 14 20 79 14 35 79 15 00 Time of chronoineter. k. tnin. tee. 20 60 23 29 25 51 27 28 30 09 32 00 34 00 35 52 37 00 38 54 Index error ib -|- 25 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. m True altitude. Deg. tnin. sec. 39 34 31 Mean time. h. min, see. 9 39 31 Latitude. De/r. tnin. see. 40 41 10 \determination of latitude, June 26, 1842 — altitude of Antares near the meridian. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitude of Antares. Deif. tnin. tec. AG 31 20 46 32 20 Time of chronometer. h. min. see. 11 48 34 U 51 03 RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Deg. mill. ure. aa 14 13 Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. see. 40 41 03 [ i74] 596 PIR8T ENCAMPMENT ON THE RIGHT BANK OF PLATTE RIVER, 1,970 FEET ABOVE THE LEVEL OF THE GULF OF MEXICO. Determination of longitude, June 26, 1842 — altitude of a .'Iquifae. OBSERVATIONS. ^ riRST SKUItS. 8SC0JID SBHIKII. Double altittulp of a Aquils. Time of chronometer. Doublo altitude of a \ Aquilte. Time of chronometer Deg. min. see. 74 24 40 75 04 50 75 39 30 76 tb 10 76 47 15 A. min. 12 06 12 07 12 08 12 10 12 12 see. 20.5 15.5 58.0 2«.0 10,0 Dcg. min. see. \ 78 36 36 ' 79 16 45 79 44 30 i t t A. min. sec. 12 17 36.6 12 19 30.9 12 20 66.0 Deg. 71 72 73 RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Lonaritude. ■ ■ h. min. fee. 10 23 06 i. min. see. 1 50 69 Deg. mm. tee ■ 99 17 47 ■ EK, 1,970 FEET of a .Iquiiae. 1 [kit. me of chronometer h. min. sec. 12 17 36.6 12 19 30.0 12 20 66.0 69T [ 174 ] SECOND ENCAMPMENT ON THE RIGHT BANK OF PLATTE RIVER. Determination qf longitude, June 27, 1848 — altitude if/' a Jlquilse. OU.SKRVATIONS. riRHT HKHIXa. aomctor. HEI-OIVU RIRIIS. Double altitude of a Aquilie. Time of chro Doublr altitude of a Aquiloj. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. see. 71 43 10 72 38 50 73 07 00 ..;.... - - A . h. 11 11 min. 64 57 68 see. ii.O 20.0 41.5 Deg. min. see, 73 26 20 73 62 40 74 60 00 A. min. tee. 1 1 69 38 12 00 62 12 03 38 Index error = + 10 8ec._ KESirLT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. h. min. sec. 10 07 03 Advance. h. min, sec. I 6J 05 Lon^itudc. Deg. min. see. tin 37 46 Determination of latitude^ June 27, 1848 — (fltitude qf Polaris, 1^1 x\ .i* OBSKKVATIONS. Double altitude of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. see. 78 59 45 13 03 79 01 30 10 46 79 04 00 20 40 79 05 55 24 12 79 07 00 26 05 ,''1 ■ ' k RESULT OP CALCULATION. Tine altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 39 30 50 h, min, see. 9 28 36 Deg, min. tec. 40 39 32 C 174] 598 THIKl) ENrAMl'MKNT O.N THE RIGHT BANK OP PLA'H'E RIVER. Deterniinuiion of talHuife, June 28, 1842 — altitude of Polurin. 0B9EUVATI0NS. Double altitiidr of Polttiin. Time of min. oninter. Deg. m'n. ttc. h. ne. 78 5!) SO 05 05 78 69 3ft 07 32 7'J 00 •15 08 46 79 01 15 10 02 79 01 50 1.1 08 79 0» ;jo 14 19 79 04 ;)6 • 11 to 42 70 OS 20 18 09 79 05 55 19 11 79 06 40 20 66 Index error = — 20 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Dtff. min. sec. 39 30 13 A. min. see. 9 20 25 • Deg. min. sec. 40 39 50 TTE HIVEU. le of Polar i.n. 509 [ 1^4 ] FIFTH ENCAMPMENT ON THE HKJHT MANK OF I'LATTK KIVKR. Determinntion nf lalilude^ June 30, 184 2 — altittnle of Jlnlares near the tueridiini. OnSEHVATIONS. ftnoiiirlvr. n. tec. > 05 7 a« rt 46 09 1 08 4 19 6 Vi 8 09 * 9 11 66 • Double altituita ofAntarca. Dfg. min. $ee. A% 15 60 45 17 60 46 16 SO TiiDP ')f chronoinoter. A. min. tie 11 86 HH 11 40 :>9 11 44 14 Index error »r — 20 sr«. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mi.'un time. Latitude. Determination of lonifilude, Jim'- 30, 1812 — altitude of o. Jlqidlix. OBSERVATIONS. ^,1 i;r I I ^ Doable altitude of a Aquile. Time of chronometor. D-^. min. *«r. A. min. wc. Ul 12 40 17 or> 5 - 61 48 00 18 49.0 62 22 20 20 19 63 10 fO 2'.' 3r,.o 63 69 50 24 5S.6 Me«n time. A. mm. «w. • 26 SO RESULT OF CALCULATION. Advance. h. m*'n. see. 1 53 24 Longitude. Dtg. mtn. gee, 100 38 10 'II ill ^. VI ^ rf / 7 /^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 lis I 2.5 2.2 I.I 11.25 lUUk. III 10 IIIIIM =y= 111 1-6 1111=^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WitBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 i I C 174] 600 FIFTH ENCAMPMENT ON THE RIGHT BANK OF PLATTE RIVER. Determmaiion oflalitudej June 30, 1842 — (iltUude of Polaris. titudc OBSERVATIONS. Double al of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. su. h. min. fee. 79 16 40 t 10 57 01 79 17 25 10 59 13 79 19 00 01 20 79 19 35 02 56 79 20 40 04 44 79 21 10 06 09 79 21 50 07 50 79 22 40 09 19 79 23 00 10 59 79 ■ ■ ■ * ■ ■ ■- 24 40 12 56 -i RESULT OF CALCULATION. • * True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. 39 39 ■lec. 04 h. min. sec. 9 09 51 Deg. min. sec. 40 49 55 ■ ' C.\CA' Uoiible r suii'h Dg ;u 31 3:J 3.J De/e Double alliii Aqui Dfg. min 73 2.7 74 10 71 49 Met 9 sec. 01 13 20 56 44 09 50 19 ) 59 J 56 GOl [ ''t ] ENCAMPMENT AT THE Jl.'NCTION OF THE NOPTII AND POIITII FORKS OF •JME IM.ATTE UIVEK, .i.TtO I EKT ABOVE THE l.EVEE OF THE GULF OF MEXICO. Dtlerminuiion of lungiludp, Jul>i 2, \S\'i—sxui* s uUilmh. OBSERVATIONS. FIHRT H::iiu:h. Double allitiido of (ho sun's* lower liinb. Dg. m'». S'C a.) 21 liO 3i 54 <.o 31 ^\ f;0 3! -Hi ll y;j 01 50 'I'imc of chrononicter. mm. 14 40 47 49 ."ll tec. !7.0 1) 5 32.0 I 'J h '-i3 5 8KC0HD SKHIKS. Doiib!c iilliluile cf the 8un'.s lower limb. Dci:.. 3i 3i 31 :ll trim. \i (0 43 20 14 if. 1:!) dO !0 3) JO Time of chronometer //. 7 7 7 7 7 mil. 5.i f.4 5V f5 5li ser. 3'J M.r> 4'J.O 40 23 5 Index error ==. — 18 .sec. KESl'LT OF CALCULATION. Ixjiigitudo. fun. (fc- ■i-Z 00 Detenninaiion of longilude, Julij 2, 1S12 — ultitude ofo. Aquilvs. OBSEKVATIONS. , f inST SBUIE8. IIKCONO SERIES. Double altitude of a Aquilaj. Time of chronom.eter. h. min. sec. 11 46 4J 11 48 51 1 1 50 42 Double altitude of a Aquils. Time of chronometer. Dfg. min. sec. 73 2.'j 40 74 10 30 71 49 20 Deg. tnin. sec. 75 36 25 76 18 40 7G 43 10 h. min. aec. 1 1 53 03 11 55 06 11 56 18 RESULT OP CALCl'LATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. A. mtfi. »ee. 9 63 68 h. min. aec. I 67 49 Deg, min. aec, 101 22 00 3!) [ 174 ] 602 EN^AMryE^T at the JTNCTION of the NORTIT and f-OUTH FOPK8 OF THE IIA'ITE KIVLR, v,7(0 Fl.ET ABOVE 'J HE LEVEL OF THE GULF OP MEXICO. Determinalion of lalilude, Jvli/ 2, 1842 — allUxuk of ^infurcs in the. rncrittian. NCAMP Det f J '1 K i.fi if I \\ V ■ Double altitude of the t^tar. l)err. win. sec. 45 44 15 True altitude. JDci,'. rw//?. sec. 22 49 55 Latitude. 41 «5 a Dclcrtniiiulwn ff longitude, July 3, 1842 — alliluile of the sioi. OBSERVATIONS. KIUST S iKFlIES. SECOND SEIIIES. Double iiltitude of the Time of chronometer. • Double altitude of the Time of chronometer. sun's lower liinb. sun's lower limb. Dei^'. viin. fee. h. niin, sec. Deg. niin. scr. h. min. ."et. 53 50 50 9 08 22.0 57 06 25 9 1 7 O.") 5 64 0!) 20 9 09 04 5 57 4:) 05 9 18 44.5 ftS 05 f.O 9 11 4,5.5 58 15 40 9 20 li 7 55 38 £0 9 li 11.0 .58 41 40 9 21 22,0 56 09 to 9 14 :35..3 59 11 25 9 22 41.5 RESULT OF CA LCULATION. Mean time. mm. 18 src. 01 Time did not permit iis to wait at some of the most important geograplii- cal positions for favorable weather, and I li;ive occasionally referred to tliesej the observations taken at loss marked localities. By the chronotnetric dif-[ ference, the liuiar distance of September IC, observed aboiit forty inilesj iMilow, is referred to this place. Double allil «un"8 ioH ^^rg. in! o5 4{ 55 2<1 54 57 54 3(1 54 M Mca THE GULF OF infiircs in the iUtitude. m'n. fee 05 2i of the SU72. «1ES. Time of chronometer. ft. min. fee. 9 17 «5 5 9 IS 44..') 9 20 in 9 21 22.0 9 22 41.5 603 [ ^74 ] NCAMPMENT ON THE LEFT BANK OF THE SOUTH FORK OF PL.\TTE RIVJ-R, « " Determination of longitxidc^ July 4, IS42 — alfi/ude of the tun. OBSERVATIONS. FIRST SEHIES. Double altitude of the gun's lower limb. Defr. min. fCC 55 49 40 55 24 10 64 57 10 54 3l» 50 54 14 50 Time of chronomrter. . Mean time. ft. 6 6 6 6 6 nitn. sec. 52 9^ 51 54 5:> 56 05 17 25 10 SKCOM) SKRIKS:« tor. Double altitude of the Tiir.o ^ chio.iomcter. sun's lower min- limb. iec. fi. min. sec. bi 54 15 6 ii7 05 ;3 •M 00 (i 57 59 53 2,t 40 6 58 35 5:) Oi 30 6 f)» 23 52 41 :J0 7 00 11 RESULT OF Ci\LCULATION. Advance. I.o i^.tudc. wP w f, » I \^ ,i I Longitude. )ortant geogmplu- ly referred to llit'sel • chronomeiric dif-j about forty miles! « . h ec. bO 57 lil Mean liiiio. h. nii'n. sec. liUtituJc. Peif. mill. •10 51 S'C. 17 Determination of longitude, July fi, 1842 — allitude of a Jlquilnc. 015SKRVATI0XS. Double altitude of a Aquila;. Tune of chronometer. • D,s. mm. sec. h. mm. see. m b:i 2«) 13 4)0 14 Vl !j2 10 12 06 14 h. 10 Mean time. h. mill. 9 57 sec. 31 RESULT OF CALCULATION, Advance. k. 2 mm. 05 sec. 43 Lon<:ritudc. Deg. min. s/c. lOJ 35 04 Dee;. 39 z pi..\Trr: RiVEU. of Polaris. ir. mm. S'C. i 51 IV onometer. n. sfc 14 S 14 Jez. min. Sic. 605 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT ON THE SQITII FORK OF PLATTE RIVER, Determination of longitude, f/ii/j/ 7, IS'iy — at/itu(/eofa ^^(piilx. OBSKllV ATIONS, Double altitude of 1 Aquilac. Deir. min. sec. 83 29 20 84 16 10 85 1» 50 86 01 20 86 41 30 •I'ime of chronometer. fi. min. fee. 12 04 45 12 07 07 12 iO 51 12 12 32 12 14 37 Index error = + 15 sec. RESULT or CALCULATION. Mean time. A. min. sec. 10 02 42 Advance. Longitude. /*. min. nee. 2 07 17 Deg. 1U4 mm. 02 see. 13 Determination of latitude, July 7, 1842 — altitude of Polaris. OnSEnVATIONS. Double < iltitude of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. nee. 79 43 40 12 18 37 79 44 50 12 21 39 79 48 00 t 12 24 28 79 51 OU 12 29 54 79 52 40 12 33 19 RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean ti*- . Latitude. Des(. min, sec. 39 53 11 A. min. see. 10 18 17 Deg, min, sec. 40 33 26 i' m: H?i: tM [ t* [ 174 ] GOfJ ENCAMP!Vl?]\T AT ST. VRAIN'S F'RT, SOUTH FORK OF FLATTE RIVHR, 5 440 FEET ABOVE THE LEVEL OF THE GLLF OF MEXICO. Dctermindthn of longitude, July 1 1, 1842 — aliitude of the sun- OHSKBVATIONS. Fin«T HERIES. 8BC0XD Double altitude of the Nun'H lower limb. HBRIEH. Time Double sun'.s altitude of the lower limb. Time of chronometer. of chronometer. Deg. 50 60 51 61 52 min. src. 01 40 34 50 1 05 28 10 02 55 A. min. see. 9 18 23 9 19 5i j 9 21 02 ! 9 22 13 j 9 S3 45 De^. min. sec. 53 00 00 53 36 55 54 17 20 .54 48 15 55 21 30 A. 9 9 9 9 9 min. *ec. 26 17.0 27 53.5 29 40.0 31 02.0 32 30.0 Index error = -)- ^^ sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. A. min, sec. 7 II 54 Advance. A. min. see. 2 13 22 Longitude. Deg, min. sec. 105 45 13 Determination of longitude, July 12, 1842 — altitude of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. FinST SKHIES. SECOND SERIES. If Double sun's altitude of the lower limb. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of the .sun'.s lower limb. Time of chronometer. Deif. 62 63 63 64 min. .fcr. :t3 10 27 20 67 00 4S 00 A. )uin. sec. 9 hi 51 9 54 !3 9 55 32 9 57 45 Deg. min, sec, 66 09 30 67 09 30 1 1 k. min. sic. 10 01 20.0 10 04 .55.5 t \TVE KIVKR, 5,440 XfCO. 'e of Ihe. sitn. Tinje of chronometer. h. min, nee. 9 26 17.0 9 27 53.5 9 29 40.0 9 31 02.0 9 32 30.0 7eg. mill. sec. 105 45 13 de of the sjin. Time of chronometer. A. min. s€c, 10 01 20.0 10 04 .55.5 607 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT ON CROW CREEK. Detcrminaliou of latitude^ July 12, 1812 — nllitude nf PtiirU. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitude of Poiaris. D'^. min. ttc. 79 39 30 79 41 40 70 45 40 Time of chrunometer. A. min. 11 31 1 1 3 1 11 41 see. 28 29 24 Index error = 4-7 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude Dsi^. min. see. 39 50 13 h. min. sec, 9 25 i\\ Deg. min. see. 40 42 00 Determinatinn nf longitude, July 12, 1842 — altitude of o. Jiquilx. OBSERVATIONS, FIRST SEUI£S. SECOND SERIES. Double altitude of a Aquils. Time of chronometer. i Double altitude of a Aquilffi. Time of chronometer. Deo-, min. sec. 83 15 20 84 38 30 /*. min. sec. 11 49 47 1 1 53 58 Dei:^. min, sec. 85 36 311 • 86 26 10 h. min. ifc. 11 57 01 11 59 36 RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advanc*. Longitude. A. min. sec. 9 42 53 h. min. see. % 2 12 12 Deo-, min. sec. 105 3 J 27 ;,|i I m [ 1T4 ] (i08 ENUAMP.ME.NTON A FORK OF I.OiGK I'OI.R CIlfiEK, 5,4.-)0 PKKT AIJOVE TMH GIA.V OF MEXICO. Determinution of lalilHtle^ July 13, IS 12 — altitude of Pitluris. OIISERVATIONS. Double altitude of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. mm. sec. 80 U7 30 80 30 60 80 43 00 h. min. see. H 35 16 II HH 10 11 41 24 Index error = + ! 5 nee. RESULT OP CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. mia. sec- 40 19 12 h'. min. see. 9 28 SO Deg. min. sec. 41 08 34 Determination of longitude, July 13, 1842 — altitude of a jSquilse. OBSERVATIONS. Double B.I itudo of a AquiliB. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec. 83 36 30 46 45 84 21 20 49 06 8S 05 40 51 22 8ft 4t to 53 14 M 34 50 56 01 87 12 10 1 1 68 05 RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. h. min. fee. 2 10 38 Longitude. A. mm. see. 9 41 47 Df.s. min. gee, 105 13 38 •:T AIJOVKTIIB 60.0 [ 174 ] KNCJAMPMRNT ON* IIDRHK CRKEK. Iklpiminathn of lonf;iliu/r, -'n/j/ II, 1842 — uUitude of a ,/lqmlw,. OIJSKRVATIONS. riRIT HKHIBS. / I Double aUiludc of n Aquilffi. Dei,', min. see. 71u 33 00 72 27 30 Time of chronoraotcr. A. min. tec. II 07 04 11 00 39 MECOND HKRIKH. Double altitudo of a A42uila!. Defr. min. sec. 73 20 40 74 16 50 Time of chronometer. Index error r-., -f- 15 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. h. min. sec. 11 12 16 11 1.^ 01 mm. sec, 13 38 Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. sec. 9 01 29 h. min. see. 2 09 31 Deg. min. sec. 104 59 23 Determination of latitude, Jttl^ 14,1843 — altitude of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitude of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. fee 82 05 30 82 09 30 82 11 30 82 15 30 A. min. sec. 12 06 09 12 11 09 12 13 57 12 19 16 RESULT OP CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. see. 41 01 23 A. min. sec. 10 03 10 Dea. min. see. 4i 40 13 >1 ^;«*' [ i7l ] (JIO ENCAMI'MKNT AT FORT LAR\MIf=:, 4,470 PRKT AOOVK TIIR LKVKL OF TIH OIJLF OF MEXICO. Delerminntfon 0/ longitude, July 16, 1842 — altitwle of the sun. OBSKRVATIONS. riMT MKIIIEK. •?ca3" HRBIH • Double allitudu of the niui'h lower limb. Time of chronometer. Double iiun'8 altitude of the lower limb. Time of chronomeli Deif. min. »ee. 68 31 20 6S 58 40 69 18 30 69 28 10 69 45 00 h. min. sec. 9 40 21.0 9 41 .'13.6 9 42 29.0 9 42 54.0 9 43 40.4 Deg. 60 60 60 60 61 min. »ee. 12 20 .17 50 49 50 59 20 11 00 A. 9 9 9 9 9 min. tec. 44 52.6 46 '01.0 46 34.0 46 590 47 ;J2.5 Thermometer 8 1*». 3. Index error ^ -j- 23 sec. HESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. A. min. sec. 4 26 17 Advance. A. 2 mm. 10 sec. 35 Longitude. 105 mm. 20 sec. 13 Determination 0/ longitude, July 18^ 1843 — altitude o/a xflquilae. OBSERVATIONS. FIRST 8ERIR8. SECOITD lEllIES. Double altitude of a Aquiiffi. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of a AquiltB. Time of chronomcU A. min. see. 11 21 29 11 23 00 11 24 10 Deg. m'n. sec. 79 31 10 79 67 00 80 32 30 A. min. sec. 11 17 04.5 11 18 25.5 11 20 18.0 Deg. min. sec. 80 55 40 81 24 40 81 47 20 RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. A. min. sec. 9 10 46 Advance. A. min. sec. 2 09 58 Longitude. D^g. m 40 1 40 4 41 41 2 41 4 HR I.KVKL OF Till I'le of the sun. numiM. Tinui of chronomet h. mm. tec. 9 44 63.6 9 46 '01.0 9 46 34.0 9 46 59.0 9 47 32.5 Longitude. D'g. min. sec. 105 20 13 ude ofo. Jlquilse. D 8EBIE8' Time of cluonometi h. min. sec. 11 21 291 II 23 00 11 24 10 Longitude. uil [ "O KNCAMPMENT \T FORT LARAMIK. ^470 KKKT ABOVE THE LEVEL OF THE OliLf OF Mfc}\u;o. Determinaiion of lutitutfe, July 18, 184!i — nltHude of Polaris. OltS£UVATIONS. Double altitude of I'olariM. Time of chronometer. Deig. min. sec. min. »ec. 82 59 10 36 21 83 00 60 39 00 83 02 30 41 34 83 04 50 43 45 83 00 00 46 31 Thermometer 63°. Index error ^ ^ 25 see. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 41 30 38 h. min. sec, 9 31 14 Defr. min. sec. 42 13 10 Determination of longitude, July 20, 1842 — altitude of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. FIRST SEniKS. SECOSD SERIES. Double 1 altitude of the | Time of chronometer. Double altitude of the Time of chronometer. «lUl'e lower lin>b. sun's lower imb. D:^. min. 1 sec. ! A. min. sec. Dei,'. min. sec. k. min. SPC. 40 13 20 j 8 52 08.0 41 56 40 8 56 51.0 40 41 00 ! 8 53 25. 5 42 08 30 8 57 2t.6 41 02 55 ; 8 54 25 42 20 20 8 67 56 41 23 30 8 55 21.(1 42 33 40 8 5S 33.0 41 40 50 ! 8 56 OS.O 42 52 20 8 59 25.0 Thermometer 65°. Index error ^ -f- 25 sec I ! [ 174 ] 612 ENCAMPMENT AT FORT LARAMIE, 4,47" FEET ABOVE THE LEVEL 01' THE GULF OF MEXICO. Determination of longitude, Juli/ 21, \842~-alUtude of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. ft FinST 8KRIES. SECOITD SERrEM. Double altitude of the Time of chronometer Double altitude of the Time of chronometer. lower limb of the siin. lower limb ol the sun. Dee;, min. tec. A. mm. sec. i De^. miv. sec. h. min. st". 39 45 20 8 51 23.0 41 24 50 8 r)5 67.0 40 2-2 60 8 53 05.5 41 42 10 8 56 44.0 40 36 20 8 53 43.0 41 54 20 8 57 16.4 40 54 10 8 54 32.5 42 O' 30 8 57 62,3 41 05 00 8 55 01.0 42 22 40 8 68 34.3 Thermometer 66°. Index irror = -|- 25 sec RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. h. 6 mm. 46 Me. 00 Advance. h. min. sec. 2 09 25 Longitude. By the chronometric difference, ihe lunar distance observed at Dried Meat camp is referred to tiiis place. E LEVEL 01' TUB de of the sun. SGRIEH. Time of chronometer. h. min. St". 8 f)5 57.0 8 lie 44.0 8 57 16.4 8 57 5S.3 8 58 34.3 613 [ 174 J ENCAMPMENT ON THE NOIITII FORK OF TLATTE lUVEU. Dclcrvtiiuition of Itiv^iludL'^ Julij 23, 18 5J — aitiludu of o Jlquilx. OnSF.nVATlONS. 'c n!litudc Aquilro. FIHS-r E of a iEBIE8. Time of chron o.T.ater. ■'cr. 51 (0.0 2i.ti 3H.5 43 secu.no SEiiies. • Uoub Dor.bJo n'ti;udo of a Aec. 30 45 50 5J h. 10 11 II 11 in in. 5 '5 00 01 Oi 03 h, min. . see. 1 1 ()7 02 1 1 08 .'2.0 1 • 09 50 fi It 11 57,0 T < *<* Index error ^ ^ 25 sec KESUr.T OP CALCl'LATIONT. Longitude. observed at Dried Mean time. mtn. 6) 28 Longitude. 4 ^^ T-1 I [ 174 ] 614 ENCAMPMENT ON THE NORTH FORK OF PLATTE RIVER. relernnnution of latitude, July 23, 18 J2 — altitude of Poluns. OBSBRVATIONS. Double altitude of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. ndn. sec. A. min. sec. 81 m 10 2!) i8 84 01 20 31 34 84 02 20 32 4.> 84 03 15 31 57 84 04 15 3.) 20 84 05 2.1 36 fiO 81 07 20 38 57 81 07 95 > ] t 40 02 81 10 00 43 04 84 11 50 45 44 RESULT OP CALCUL.\TIOX. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. ZJeo-. mm. sec. 42 01 51 h. m'n. sec. 9 23 30 Dcg. mhu ST. 4a 39 25 Determination of longitude, July 23, 1812 — altitude of Arcturus^ OBSERVATIONS. Double altitude of Arcturus. Deg. m'>n, se.\ 75 18 40 74 51 10 74 04 20 Time of chronometer. h. min. sec. It 01 08.0 12 02 230 12 04 <^ii'«. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. m n. Mr. 42 09 35 A. min, gtr. 9 02 6S Deg. min. tee. 42 51 35 1 1 il^* it' J 1." [ 171 ] (AG EiN'CAMl'MENT ON THE N. FORK OF PLATTG KIVER-DHIKD MEAT CAMI».| Delcrmhuition of longitude, Juhj Jo, ]S42—u/{Hii(/c oj ^/Irclurnn OBSERVATIONS. FIRST HKIIIKS. Double oltitudc of Arc- turus. Time of chronometer. D.'!];;. mill. ,scc. 8G IC 1.-, 8) .-It 25 83 IG '10 /'. mill. IC 11 2;J 4.) 1 1 2.) 2 1 U 20 31 SEUOXn HKKIK8. Double altitude of Arc- turns. /)ci'. min. sei". m 4 a :jo 81 l:i A) b3 2G CO Time of chronometer. h. min. SIC. II 2 7 4ii 11 29 27 11 31 \i7 Tliermomctcr 72°. 5. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean timc- //. min. see. 9 14 18 Advance. h. min. s r. 2 12 3B Longitude. Uelerniination of longitude, Ju/i/ 25, 1842 — rfif/nnce forn the second] limb of I he inoun to Jupiter. OUSEUVATrON.<». Time of chronometer. Apparent distance. A. min. sec. Dfg. min. aec. 45 01 58 3J 50 47 20 58 3( 60 49 32 68 36 30 50 6ft 64 37 40 53 18 68 38 25 Index error = + 15 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True distance. Mean time at Greenwich. Longitude of the place. Deg. min. ate. 58 04 42 h. min. sec. 16 42 11 Deg. min. tee. 106 26 11 irr^v. * -k '1^ m 617 C 174 ] KD MEAT CAMr».1 : oj %rlrclurn^ ENCAMPMENT ON THE NORTH FORK OF THE PLATTE KIVER, MOUTH OP DEEK CREEK. Determination of latitude, Julij 26, lS-12 — altitude of Polaris. OBSEKVATIONS. KHIK8. Time of chronoincler. h. min. s/'C. 11 '21 4ii 11 29 27 11 al \i7 ' Double altitude of I'olaris. Time of chronomctor. Drfr. VI in. arc. k. min. see. 64 22 4 14 27 84 2) 00 15 M 84 27 10 19 01} hi 27 00 20 10 1-4 29 00 22 11 84 30 10 23 57 81 32 50 2>4 CO 84 34 20 29 ?;> 84 31 50 30 no 81 37 00 33 32 • Index error =• + 15 BOC. Longitude. KESULT OP CALCULATIOX. fom the secondl t diBtanco. n. sec. 3 50 1 60 6 30 7 40 8 25 True altitude. Mean time. Tiatitudo. Dp^. min. ser. 42 14 16 h. min. sec. 9 10 02 De^. min. ae: 42 bi 21 • i ^ ij> [ngitude of the place. 40 *.lii C 174] •CIS E.\UA\fPM3\T ON TH3 NOITH FOT< OF" TII3 PLATTE RIVES, MOUTH OP UEEIl CREEK. Determination oflongilutli\ July 3G, 181:2 — uHitude ofthesvn. OBSERVATIONS. 1 Uouhle altitude of the lower limb of the sun. Time of chronomeler. Detr. min. arc. h. mi'n. ser. 4iS 47 45 7 21 03.0 4() 31 40 7 21 45.5 Iiitcrruptetl by clouils. Interrupted liy clouds. 4A 37 15 7 21 14. .-j 45 22 10 7 21 fiCi « 4^ flI 1(1 7 55 64.0 44 37 30 7 27 00 Thermometer 83°. UouWe a!t:t luwer limb DfK- m' 4.3 1 41 5 41 4 41 31 41 1.- RESULT OF CALCULATION. "if '£ '>i lit Mean lime. Advance. In. ser. 80 29 SO 79 f9 10 79 34 26 h. mi». sec. 11 3f. 47 11 38 12 11 33 20 Di-if. min. sec, '<9 13 30 75 62 OJ 76 3i 30 k. min. sec. 11 40 16.5 11 41 17.0 11 42 11.0 Thermometer 71°. nESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. tnm. tt^. 9 26 06 A. min. tec. 2 13 31 • VE^l, MOUTH OP p of (he sun. nometer. Mr, 03.0 45 5 V clouds. 14.5 5ft (i &4.0 00 Iiongltudo. )'!»•. m'n. sec. 106 43 15 le of >^ returns. 8KKIK8. Time of chronometer. h. min. sec. 11 40 16.5 11 41 17.0 11 42 no Longitude. GI9 I, 1^4 D BXCAMPME.NT ON THE XORTIJ FORK OF PLATTE RIVES, UPPER CACHE CAMP. Ddermination of lougiludey Jithj 28, \^A2— altitude of the sun. OBSKRVATIONS. PiaST SKUtRS. I UouMc attitude of the Lwer limb of the sun. 4.'] 41 41 41 41 M »1. 1.2 5a 4> 30 to sec. 55 10 :<» 20 iO I'ime of chronometer. A. 7 7 7 7 7 mi'', 2» ■.G 2li 27 27 aer. 05.0 \1 5 58 (> ■ BCOXn RKdllB. Di)uh!o Hltitu.la of t'le lower liin'i oi' tlienun. 43 41 4:1 4» ■i2 III n, 4G :v> 17 05 61 2» 2> l'» 0'> 40 'I'imo of chronuniete h. m>n. ^«;. 7 29 n.7 7 I'J 46.0 7 :ii> 37.0 7 31 11.0 7 ai 41. r Theimomcter 81)°. :i. IntWji error -- -}- 12 kcc. RKS'.rLT 0|^ CAl.riTf.ATIOV. Londtudo. mm. 15 65 Determination of/atifuf/, Julji 28, l^Vi—uidtuc/e of Pulnris. 03Sf KVATION.-^. Tiiiie of rhroDomrter. Dfg. min. *^, A. wu'n. tec S4 31 30 21 10 U at 45 1 25 45 81 S5 1 \ 33 25 »t 40 <4) I 31 4! 64 40 25 1 35 55 St 43 15 1 37 '^4 RESULT OK CAUUt.ATION- TrtM a)UktMl«. Mean lime. Latitu'le. Df^. m'n. Hf. h. min. tee. Deg. min. Bee, 4*i 17 64 9 15 (.9 U 6U 5< [ 1^4 ] C20 ENCAMPMENT ON THE NOKTII FORK OF PLATFE RIVER. DetermitKilion of latilude, JuJj 29, 1S12 — altitude of Voluria. OUSKIJVATIONS. Double altitude of Polaris. 'Y\aw of chronometer. Det;. mill. ttr. ft. min. wc. Si 51 10 It 05 CO H) ^7 ll> 11 or 47 8) 57 30 11 CO 10 81 59 Af> It 12 14 84 00 40 11 14 !G 61 i l(< )■ 'A I ? i m C »7I ] G2i OOAT ISLAND. «te. Fnvorablo weatlicr cnnliltd ms to . orvo lioro an orculfnlinn oft Aricti«, tvliich ocriirri'«J at the inooii's*biiijlit liiul), sit (i>>. 05' to" ol ilto 3Isl «tf July, (civil lime.) In order that it luiglit bo calciilaicd wiih the ndviiiiiage of correspondent observations, and the rorrenion of thn nrrorsof ibo tabltR, the observation was sent to Mr. S. (J. Walkor, at PliiladiOphia. The ful. lowing ie the result from Mr. Walker's coini>ulation, without any correc- tion for errors of the tables. Jtilt/ 30, 1842 — aslronomical time. t Im.» Arictis Vih. 5' 40" d' a b e f '* ^ f\^.^ /NA^> r>J>.r\ 7//. 10' .la^Ol + 1.{<9G + lull + 2.4S8. 13y the estimated diffirrencc of longitude, thirty-two seconds, (32",) the lunar distance observed at the niouih of the Sweet Water on ilie 23d of August, is referred to this i)Iacf, for the l.ingiindc of which we have adopted the mean from chronometer, lunar di>.tunce, and occultatioii, re- sulting as follows: Longitude of Goat island, by lunar distance Longitude of (loat island, by chronometer Longitude of Goat island, by ecculialion Mean longitude of Goat island - =: 7 10 30.53 Some of the observai-niis made at this place were lost in the accident in the Platte river on the 24tii u( August. h. nit'n. tu. — 7 )0 07.91 = 7 10 51 Gf) = 7 10 38.01 623 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT ON GOAT ISLAND, N. FORK OF THE PLATTE RIVER. Delerminafian of I litudey Juhj 30, 1842 — aUitude tif the sttn in the meridian. l'« m Ifafinn of* Aricti«i, 10" ol «lio 3 1 si (.f i'iili llie adviiiitiige frrorsof the tablt-s, delpliia. The ful. iihuut any currec- seconds, (32'\) the liter on ilie 23d of | f which we have lid occiiltalioii, re- Double altltudo of the aunV lower liiiib. Drg. min. see. 131 22 30 True central altitudo. Dei(. mil}. >.ee. G3 56 52 Latitude. Deg. min. tec U 33 27 Index error 12 «cc. Dete-r mi nation o/lon^itude, July 31, 1842 — altitude of a- JlquHx. OBSERVATION.S. Double altitude of a Aquilir. Time of chronometer. D g. min. see. 0 I' [ 1T4] G21 U mi ENCAMPMENT ON THE 8WEET WATPJR niVER, ONE MILE BELOW IIOCK INDEPENDENCE. Determinalion of latitude^ Jlus^ust 1, 1812— ni/iluUe of Polaris. OnSKKVATIONS. Ddublo altituile of Polarii. Time of chrnnomotcr. /V/f. min. see. k min. ser. 84 04 80 20 33 8t 05 SO 3t 12 84 05 00 32 15 84 07 60 33 42 84 00 00 36 20 84 10 00 1 30 37 84 11 40 [ 3H 18 84 13 00 t 39 38 84 13 10 1 40 48 84 14 00 I 42 14 Thermometer 47". RESULT OF CALCULATION True altitude. Mean h. mil time. Latitude. « J)eg. min. see. t. see. Deg min. see. U 03 51 9 18 40 42 29 56 Index error » 4. 12 sec- Determination 0/ longitudb, jJugust 1, 1842 — altitude of »^rcturus. OBSERVATIONS. i-insT SERIES. HECOND 8EniKS. Double altitude of Arc- turus. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of Arc- turus. Time of chronometer. D g, min. see. 66 41 00 66 16 20 65 50 30 65 24 10 64 49 2J k. min. sec. 11 54 :>b.O 11 56 03.0 11 57 10.0 11 58 19.5 11 59 55.5 Deg. min. tee. 64 00 fiO 63 22 50 62 46 30 62 14 10 61 48 .50 h. min. sec. 12 02 10.0 12 03 52.0 12 05 29 6 12 06 57.0 12 08 06.0 I RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. see. 9 44 00 h. min. fee. 2 17 18 Deg. min. see. 107 55 00 \)\ 3 DEI.OW ROCK e of Polaris. lomotcr. .13 12 19 43 20 37 18 38 48 14 Latitude. mm. tec. 29 56 J ofArcturus. niKs. rime of chronometer. h. mm. sec. 12 oa 10.0 12 03 52.0 12 05 29 6 12 06 57.0 Vi 08 06.0 ongitude. wiin. see. 55 00 62r, [ 174 ] ENCAMI'MKNT ON TUB bVVECT VVA'I'CU lUVl'.ll. Deierminniion of ialHitcff, ^htifust !>, 1813 — altituile of Polaris. OBSKItVATIONS. Double altitude of Puldriii. Tinw of chronomrlrr. Deg. min. fee. • h. min. gee. 88 CO 30 b 18 6.% 88 03 30 b 2't 1^ 88 08 00 b S3 39 88 03 40 ft 26 01 88 03 30 6 27 3: Thermomcti-r 67". Index error — + 25 mc. RESULT OP CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. see. A. min. tee. Drg. min. ler. 44 00 35 3 03 49 43 33 31 Determination qf longitude, Jiugust 5, 1842 — altitude of a Lyrau OBSERVATIONS. I Double altitude of a Lyra. Time of chronometer. De^. min. tee. 67 38 30 )^6 68 40 186 35 30 h. m'n. tee. 6 04 2K.0 ft 06 21.6 6 07 3-^.0 Sky very misty. — Observation indifferent. RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. > Longitude. A. min. sec. S 45 14 A. min. tee. 2 20 53 f • • ill' [ 174 ] C2G E.XCAMPMEXT ON THE SWEET WATER RIVER. Delerminalh.H of longitude^ *^u^ust 7, 1842— all Uuc/e of Arclurm, OBSERVATIONS. Double all'tuJe of Arctu lu. Time of chronometer. 1 61 64) 49 mt'i. 46 4* 61 aer, VO 3U A. 11 12 12 ruiit. arc, 2U 56 23 C4 ■ Dooble ^1 I ^g- • • Index error :<^ -^ 25 sec- IIESULT OF CALCULATION. H Mean time ). Advance. Longitude. ^1 1 A. min. « 67 tee. 01 A. min. tee, a 2a ■o\i De^'. min. iOD 51 2;* 1 1 'Delermination qflalitu(Ie,Jlugtist 7, 1812 — altitude rf Polaris. OBSEKVATIONS. Double altitude of Polaris, Time of chronometer. O'ff. ifi»n. tee. h. r.iin. se-.. 8i 69 25 M ■iO .-8 86 OU 00 12 32 19 85 01 20 12 33 25 85 03 30 \i 34 57 85 0:l 20 13 3ft 21 86 06 Ot) \i 37 4,S Thermometer 36*». HESULT 0*" CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. J)f^. min, aer. At 30 m A. min, aer, 10 11 25 Deij. min. iT, U 27 15 * •* ' Defr. 77 76 76 A. 8 J of Arclurus. •tr. mm. see. 19 51 21> onomcter. 627 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT ON LITTLE SANDY CREEK. Determination of longitude, »^vgust 8, 1842 — altitude of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. FIH8T 8KRIEB. SKCOITD ssniEB. Doable altitude nf the >un*8 lower limb. 1 Time of chronometer. Double altitude of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Drg. 44 44 44 41 43 Win. tee. 61 50 31 00 16 50 04 00 50 50 h. 7 7 7 7 7 min. S4 25 26 26 27 see. 45.5 34.0 18.0 53.6 29.0 Deg. min. sec. 43 29 30 43 16 50 43 06 30 42 52 25 42 3-i 10 h. min. 7 2H 7 29 7 29 7 30 7 30 tee. 36.5 02.0- 29.4 06.5 47.0 Thermometer 63°. Index error == -|- 25 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. see. 6 03 S3 h. min. see. 2 24 30 Deg. min. see. 1 10 07 46 Determination of longitude, »^ugu,st 8, 1S42 — altitude of Arcturus. OBSERVATIONS. FIB8T SBRIBS. SKCOITD SERIES. Double altitude of Arc- turus. Time of chronometer. • Double altitude of Arc- turuB. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. 77 19 05 76 39 40 76 09 30 h. min. see. 11 05 38 U 07 31 11 08 49 Deg. min. see. 75 21 30 75 00 40 74 39 25 h. min, sec, 11 11 03 11 11 58 11 12 53 h Thermometer 45". RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. b. 8 mm. 45 •M. 07 Advance. A. 2 mm, 24 see. 31 Longituile. [ 174 ] . G28 ENCAMPMENT qfi LITILE SANDY CREEK. Determination of latitude^Jiitgust S, IS42 — attitude nj Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitude of Polarig, Tim« of chronometer. Dfg. min. ite. h. mi ft. »fe. 83 38 40 10 41 26 83 41 20 10 4t 41 83 42 30 10 47 10 83 45 ?o 10 49 48 • 83 40 00 10 51 16 83 48 iO 10 54 33 83 60 20 10 56 14 83 50 40 10 68 08 83 52 20 • 10 69 51 83 63 25 11 01 08 RESULT OP CALCULATION. True altitude. •Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. see. 41 52 60 h. min. tre. 8 27 64 Deg. min. see. 42 27 34 H 6*2.0 ' C ^74 ] ENCAMPMENT ON THE FIRST NEW FOHK. Tktermination of lulituile, ,Qunnst \), 1812 — ul/i/tii/e of Polaris. 0DSEUVAT10\S. Doulilc altitude of Po!ari«. Time of chtono nctcr. Deg. ruin. tee. h. rtrn. ter. M 32 ■M 10 13 84 34 40 12 1!) 81 3'. 30 J3 46 84 :{•> 60 14 57 81 37 3U 1 1 10 13 84 3-t (0 17 Zi 8t 3a 10 . 10 r>i> 84 4U CO . 20 a4 84 40 f)0 21 f>;{ 84 42 30 23 £9 Index error — 4- a > bcc RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min, srr. 42 18 U h, min. see. 8 61 UO Deg. min. sre. U 42 46 Determination of lonp^itude, */Jt(gnst 9, 1842 — altitude of Arcturui. OBSEHVATIONS. unsT SEHIH. 8EC0XD SERIES. Stable altitude of Arc- turus. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of Arc* tunis. Time of chronometer. Dtg. min. see. 68 83 40 «8 02 25 •7 27 00 h. min. sec. 11 26 37 11 i9 04 11 29 41 Deg. min, see. 66 37 35 65 66 15 65 14 00 A. min. tee. 11 31 64.0 11 3) 48.0 11 36 40.5 Thermometer 44". RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mmh time. AdTance. Longitude. h. mm. get. 9 05 IS h. min. tee. t tS 4% Deg. miu te. 110 n 17 n iij C n-1 ] G30 ENCAMPMENT AT MOUNTAIV LAKK, 7,?0f» FEET ABOVE THE LEVEL OP THE OULF OF MEXICO. Determination of la liUide, August 10, 1843 — altilude of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitude of Polaris. Time of chronomoter. D':X' min. jflft. k. mm. Bm» 8i fi5 20 11 l.-i 6.5 81 b\ 50 11 17 00 81 57 30 It 18 28 ei 68 00 11 • 10 56 Ind«x error = — 12 sec. RESULT Of CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. D g. win. »«*. 43 27 25 h. mm. see. 8 51 42 Deo-, mm. fee. 43 60 08 C^i [E LEVEL OP of Polar is. [ i74] ENCAMPMENT AT MOUNTAIN f.AKE, 7,?00 FEET AUOVE THE LEVEL OF" •iHE tlLLK OK MEXICO. Determination n/Lititude^ ^lugnsl \ I, 1813 — :tltitnJe of Polaris. OBSERVATIOXS. Double aUUuda of P(>Ia^i^4. D f>;. /»{■>, t'C. 84 43 SO 81 44 2> 8t 46 10 f-i 4i '0 84 18 ao 8^ 41 HI) 81 49 SO 84 f I fO ^4 Si 00 64 52 60 Time of <•n. wr. 4 J 2) 19 A. mm. ««<•. 8 a? 64 /^ ;^. min. AZ 4i) 65 / ^ ^ [ 174 ] ()?Z ENCAMPMENT AT MOU\TAT\ T.AKR, 7,100 FRHT ABOVE THE LEVEL OF "lllE aUl.l' OF MEXICO, Dc/ermiuafi'jn of longilutlv, ^^ugu&l 11, IS4ii — ullilude of tfte sun. OnSEKVATIONS. Fl 11 ST KKItlRS of chi'onoini tcr. BKCO.Tl) SKHIKS Double altitu lo of thc! Tiiuo l)ou!i!< altitude of the Timo of c!ironoinct«r. luWlT • ini'jot llic »\xn. * lower iinh ul tlii3 i 9 ;t8 li{.:5 45 51 15 9 41 «i9.0 45 00 4a y •JS 5I.U 40 03 4.') 9 41 4i.3 llKSrLT OF CALCULATION. Mean timo. Advance. Longitude. h. tnin, te-.. 7 13 19 h. win. tee. 2 25 49 Deg. mitt. we. llk» 37 25 Diirins; my absence from tliis plucr, and between the I2th and IClh, the chruiiometer stopped. Double al sun'e ilo Deg. n 40 40 40 40 41 633 •HU LEVEL OF of the sun. mo of clironometer. h. Wl'W. Me. > 3'J 53 ) 40 20.4 » 40 4ti 9 41 «i9.0 9 41 4i.3 C 174] ENCAMPMENT AT MOUNTAIN LAKE, 7,200 FEET ABOVE THE LEVEL OF THE GULF OF MEXICO. Determination of longitude, Jlugust 17, 1842 — altitude of the sun. 'OBSERVATIONS. Thermometer 64". Index error = — 32 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. • FIRttr 8KRIS8. 6XC0K0 SKRIES. Double altitude of the Time of chronometer. Double altitude of the Time of chronometer. 8Un'£ lower limb. sun's lower limb. Deg. mill. see. A. min. sec. Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec- 4U 02 15 5 54 48.0 41 46 60 5 69 31.4 40 SO 00 5 .'55 36.3 42 01 20 6 00 12.0 40 35 1.5 5 56 17.0 42 18 05 6 00 57.7 40 48 35 5 56 54.0 i-i 38 20 6 01 53.0 41 17 20 5 58 10.5 42 60 16 1 6 02 26.3 mitt, fte, 37 25 thand lGth,tbe Mean time. Retard. Longitude. jlugustj 17, 1S42 — altitude of the mn in the meridian. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitude of the sun's lower limb. Deg. vtin. see. 120 38 15 True central altitude. Deg. min. see. 60 34 22 Latitude. Deg. min. see. 42 49 24 is 41 »-!(■ [ 174 ] 634 ENCAMPMENT ON THE SWEET WATEK RIVER. Delerminalion of latilMde, ^'ixtgust 19, 1842 — altitude of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double t iltitude mill. of Polaris. Timo of chronometer. Deu;. h. min. sec. 83 55 30 6 54 33 83 56 50 6 .'i6 06 83 68 80 6 58 02 81 00 00 7 00 o;» 81 02 10 7 03 28 Index error =- — 36 sec. RESULT OP CALCDLATION. Deter minat ion of time, August 19, 1842 — altitude of Arcturus. OBSERVATIONS. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. A. 8 ntm. 32 see- OS Retard. h . min. 1 14 sec. 26 Longitude. Mean time. Latitude. ■ True altitude. 1 h. min. .see. 8 12 41 Deg. min. 42 22 sec. 22 H Deg. min. nee. 41 58 07 ■ TIKST ! 1 iF.niES. KSCOITO SEUIES. Double altitude turus. of'Arc- Time of chronometer. Double altitude of Arc- turus. Time of clironometer. Deg. ndn. 66 51 65 33 65 01 sec. 10 35 40 A. 7 7 7 min. sec. 12 03.5 15 30.0 16 57.5 Deg. min. sec. 64 15 10 63 39 25 63 15 50 h. min. see. 7 19 03.0 7 20 .37.5 7 21 41.0 SR. de of Polaris. roiiomctcr (. see. 33 06 ! 02 » fl;» 1 28 635 [ 174] ENCAMPMENT ON THE SWEET WATFR RIVErt. Determination of time, *i9u gust 20, XSA'i—altitude of Jlrclurun. 0HSERVATI0N9. FIRHT 8BRIB8. Dotjblo nltitudo of Arc- turufl. Deir. min. fee, 63 68 00 19 17 36 53 62 61 60 49 20 40 30 40 Time of chronometer. h. 7 7 7 7 7 mm. 40 45 47 49 51 see. 4C.0 13.0 59.0 51.5 57.0 HECo.vn sniiiKs. Double altitude of Arc- j Time ofchrononMter. turus. ' I DrfT. min. fee. h. mm. 48 59 20 7 54 48 2S 50 7 55 47 47 00 7 57 47 17 30 7 58 46 OS 40 8 02 we. 15.0 38.5 34.0 53.6 Qa.0 Index error «= — 40 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 42 32 22 !e of Arcturus. Mean time. A. 9 m>n. 09 sec. 02 Retard. h. min. 1 16 sec. 88 Longitude. Determination of latitude, August 20, 1842 — altitude of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. — — — Double altitude of Polaris. Time of chronometer. I SEUIES. i Deg. 85 min. 26 see. 00 A. 8 mtn. 17 sec. 06 Time of chronometer. i 85 26 30 8 18 52 BM '■ 86 86 27 31 56 40 8 8 20 24 47 66 If ■ h. min. HC, 85 32 00 8 26 32 W 1 7 19 03.0 85 33 66 8 27 50 Mi m 7 20 37.5 85 34 40 8 29 18 1 Mil 7 81 41.0 85 36 IS 8 31 19 ■f vpH « • 85 37 30 8 32 44 • • 86 38 60 8 34 39 / Longitude. RESULT OF CALCULATION. ^ _, True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. ! ^f mtn. 45 see. 05 A. mtn. see. 9 43 03 Deg. 42 mtn. 31 tee. 4« [ 174 ] 636 ENCAMPMENT ON THE BIO BLUE RIVER. Determination of longitude, June 21, 1842 — altitude of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. ENCAMP? Deter FiniT 8EBIXS. SBCOND SKRIXI. 1 ] Double altitude of the lower limb of the sun. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of the lower limb of the sun. Deg, mtn. sec. 43 44 30 43 58 00 44 12 46 44 29 10 44 46 00 Time of clironometer. Deg. min. sec. 42 09 40 42 36 40 42 51 10 4:1 08 40 43 SO 30 h. min. sec. 8 20 15.0 8 21 27.0 8 22 04.5 8 22 54.0 8 23 40.0 h. min. sec 8 24 29.5 8 25 03.3 8 25 44.8 8 26 27.0 8 27 13.0 Index error .= — 42 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. ■ k Tru k. min. sec, 6 40 27 h. min. sec. 1 43 28 Deg 97 " i mm. sec. 06 58 .. 1 Deg. 42 NOON HALT ON THE SWEET WATER RIVER. Dtterminadon of latitude, ^iugust 22, 1842 — altitude of the sun in the meridian. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitude of the sun's lower limb. True central altitude. Latitude. Deg. min, sec. lis 08 05 Deg. min. sec, 69 19 10 Deg. min. sec, 42 26 16 Ttodet tnror 40 sec. (the sun. E8. mc of clironometer. ongitude. ■ mm. 06 sec. 58 ■the sun in the Latitude. mm. Bee. 26 16 637 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT ON THE SWEET WATER RIVER, AT ROCK INDEPENDENCE. Determination of latitude, August 22, 1842 — altitude of Polaris. 0B8EBVATI0NS. Double altitude of Polaris. h. mtn. ■ 8 24 29.5 ■ 8 25 03.3 ■ 8 25 44.3 ■ 8 26 27.0 ■ 8 27 12.0 ■ 1 Deg. mm. «ec. 84 19 30 84 20 50 84 22 10 84 23 30 84 24 16 84 25 40 84 27 46 84 28 40 84 29 10 84 30 10 'Time of chronometer. A. mtn. HC. 6 47 37 R 60 15 6 61 37 6 52 60 6 34 40 6 56 34 6 57 49 6 59 16 7 00 24 7 01 41 RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. ' Deg. min. see. 42 11 30 A. mtn. $ee. 8 16 33 Deg. min. tee. 42 29 36 • > r» 5 I [ 174 ] 638 BNCAMPMENT ON THE MWEET WATER RIVER, AT R()(;K INDEI'ENDENOB. Determination of limey August 22, 1842 — allilude of >/ircturu». OBSERVATIONS. PI HIT IKBIIil. ■ ■COIflt HBIIIIt. Double altitude of Arc- turuH. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of Arcturus. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. ate. 61 32 50 60 68 25 60 28 20 69 45 50 69 17 00 h. min. aec. 7 07 42,0 7 09 14.6 7 10 36.0 7 12 80.6 7 13 49.6 Deg. min. aee. 68 06 10 67 22 00 66 48 60 66 47 40 66 18 30 A. 7 7 7 7 7 min. aec. 17 00.0 18 69.6 20 30.0 23 15.0 24 34.3 Index error -• — 22 sec RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. Retard. Longitude. h. min. aec. 8 37 06 h. min. aee. 1 21 17 Determination qft.me, August 23, 1842 — altitude of the sun. OBSERVATIONS. PinST SKRIES. SECOND SERIES. Double altitude of the hirer limb of the sun. Time of chronometer. Double altitude cf (ja lower limb of the ».n. Time of chronometer. Dm- min. ate. S3 18 35 33 34 10 S3 40 30 33 00 30 33 15 20 h. 6 5 6 6 6 min. 28 28 29 30 30 aec. 06.0 48.7 33.0 00 40.0 Deg. min. sec. 33 35 60 33 48 35 33 68 26 34 08 30 34 35 30 h. 6 5 6 6 5 min, 31 32 32 33 34 aec. 36.0 10.0 37.0 05.0 18.5 'ff^ Deg. 42 IDEPENDENHB. Jirctnrus. M. ne of chronometer. h. min. let. 7 17 oo.o 7 18 59.6 7 20 30.0 7 23 15.0 7 34 84.3 Longitude. of the sun. iRIES. rime of chronometer. 639 [ "4 ] ENCAMPMENT ON THE NoFlTH KOKK OF Pr.ATTH UIVEK, MOUTH OF SWEET WATER RIVER. Determination of time, Jitiguat 2.'J, 1642 — altitude if the .tun. onSKHVATIONS. ft. min. $ec. 6 31 36.0 5 32 10.0 5 32 37.0 5 33 05.0 5 34 18.5 rmiT iKRiKii. KICUND RKRIKII. Double altitude of the Bun'H lower limb. Time of chroiiomptcr. Double nititudfl of the Hun'x lower limb. Time, of chronometer. Dff(. min. tec. 44 21 06 43 65 50 43 43 30 43 30 60 43 17 39 h. min. see. 3 19 43.0 3 20 51.5 3 21 23.3 3 21 68.5 8 32 36.0 IJeff. min. see. 43 0! 30 42 52 10 42 39 56 42 27 30 42 13 60 h. min. see. 3 2:J 17.4 3 23 43.4 3 24 17.5 3 24 50.3 3 26 27.4 Index error la — 32 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. Determination of latitude, Jiugust 23, 1842 — altitude of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitude of Polaris. Time of chronometer. ^f min. see. A. min. sec 30 00 6 49 55 84 21 30 6 52 20 84 32 15 « 53 04 84 24 20 6 55 14 84 36 20 6 66 32 84 36 30 6 57 56 84 28 10 6 59 ~3 84 28 . 25 7 00 59 84 30 20 7 02 29 84 31 10 7 04 13 RESULT OP CALCULATION. True altitude. Deg. min. see. 42 13 60 Mean time. h. min. sec. 8 23 08 Latitude. - t Deg. min. see. ***'!^ 43 27 18 HI I j^!' i [ 174] 640 ENCAMPMENT ON THE NORTH FORK OF PLATTE RIVER, MOUTH OF SWEET WATER RIVER. Determination of longitude, t^ugust 23, 1842 — distance from the second limb of the moon to JupHer. ( PVith the circle.) OBSERVATIONS. Time of chronometer. Apparent distance. h. min. see. Deg. min. see. 7 43 17 7 62 64 7 56 33 8 01 58 8 05 43 8 11 25 8 14 35 8 20. 50 8 24 22 8 29 20 816 59 10 RESULT OP CALCULATION. True distance. Mean time at Greenwich. Longitude. Deg. min. see. 81 10 38 h. min. sec. 16 41 21 Deg. min. see. 107 ^0 00 NOON HALT ON HORSESHOE CREEK, Determination of latitude, %^ugust 30, 1842 — altitude of the sun in the meridian. OBSERVATIONS. Doable altitude of the sun's lower limb. True central altitude. Latitude. Deg. mir.. see. :i2 38 35 Deg. min, see. 56 33 67 Deg. min. sec. 42 24 24 Index enor = — 1 min. 30 sec. (UTH or SWEET 641 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT ON THE LEFf BANK OF THE N. FORK OF PLA !TE RIVER. Determination of latitude^ September 4, 1842 — altitude of a. jiquike in the meridian. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitude of a Aquile. Deg. 113 rmn, 08 sec. 30 True altitude. Deg. min. sec. 56 32 56 Latitude. Deg. min. see. 41 54 38 Index ener = — 1 min. 30 sec. > mi i ENCAMPMENT ON THE RIGHT BANK OF THE N. FORK OF PLATTE RIVER, FIVE MILES ABOVE CHIMNEY ROOK. Determination of latiiudCf September 5, 1842 — altitude of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. T. mm. see. 7 ^D 00 qf the sun in the Double altitude of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg, min. see. h. min. sec. 84 12 00 07 03 84 14 60 10 43 84.. 17 SO 12 55 84 18 50 16 39 84 21 50 20 50 Index error = — 1 min. 30 sec. ■ ^ n :;ir •r\' September 5, 1842 — altitude of a Aquilx in the meridian, OBSERVATIONS. mm. tec. 24 24 Double altitude of a Aquiln. Deg. min. see. 113 30 40 True central altitude. Deg. min. see. 56 44 00 Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 41 43 36 m [ 174 ] 642 ENCAMPMENT ON THE RIGHT BANK OP THE N. FORK OF PLATTE RIVER, MOUTH OF ASH CREEK. Determination of latitude^ September 8, 1842 — altitude of Polaris. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitude of Polaris. Time of chronometer. De^, min. see. A. min. sec. 83 42 00 16 29 83 41 10 18 59 83 44 60 21 07 83 45 30 1 23 20 83 46 50 24 57 83 48 10 26 56 83 49 60 ] 28 30 83 60 00 30 11 83 51 40 31 41 83 53 40 33 28 Thermometer TO". 3. Index error •= - - 1 min. 32 sec. • BESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Deg. min. tec. 41 50 67 Mean time. h. min, sec. 9 19 51 Latitude. Deg. min. sec- 41 18 19 September 8, 1842 — altitude of a. jiquilae in the meridian. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitude of a Aquils. Deg. Hi mm. see. 26 10 True central altitude. D?g. min. aee, 67 11 15 Latitude. Deg. min. see. 41 16 19 'LATTB RIVER, ! of Polaris. 643 C 174] ENCAMPMENT ON THE NORTH FORK OF PLATTE RIVER— LOWER CACHE CAMP. Determination of latitude, September 9, 1842 — altitude of Polaris. t OBSERVATIONS. Double altitude of Polaris. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. sec. h. min. sec. 83 36 fi5 11 13 62 83 38 10 n 16 39 83 40 20 11 20 01 83 43 20 U 23 13 83 46 25 11 27 33 Index error •= — \ min. 32 sec. RESULT OP CALCULATION. True altitude. Deg. min. sec. 41 48 40 Mean time. h. min. tee. 9 17 42 Latitude. Deg. min. see. 41 14 44 September 9, 1842 — altitude of the sun in the meridian. OBSERVATIONS. Doable altitude of the sun's lower limb. Deg. min. e. 107 36 00 True central altitude. Deg, min. see. 54 02 37 Latitude. Deg, min. sec. 41 14 17 Thermometer 94°. '4 '!; I H l! mm. see. 16 19 [ 174] 644 ENCAMPMENT AT THE JUNCTION OF THE NORTH AND SOUTH FORKS OP THE PLATTE, 2,700 FEET ABOVE THE GULF OF MEXICO. Determination of latitude, September 12, 1842 — altitude of a t^guilse in the meridian. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitude of a Aquils. True central altitude. Latitude. Deg. min. see. 114 48 50 Deg. min. see. bl 23 09 Deg. min. sec 41 04 26 Index error 1 min. 20 sec. Determination of latitude, September 13, 1842 — altitude of the sun in the meridian. Double altitude of the sun's lower limb. Deg. min. sec. lol 51 25 Deg. min. see. 52 40 22 Latitude. D^. min. sec, 41 06 07 Thermometer 70°. fiovble altit ran's low Deg. m 37 2 37 36 5 36 3 36 2 645 [ 174 ] ITH FORKS OP 3XIC0. of a Jlquilx in Latitude. mm. see, 04 26 > of the sun in Latitude. ^ mm. see. 05 07 ENCAMPMENT AT THE JUNCTION OF THE NORTH AND SOUTH FORKS OP THE PLATTE, 2,700 FEET ABOVE THE GULF OF MEXICO. Determination of latitude, September 13, 1842 — altitude of the sun. OBSKHVATIONS. Doable altitude of the lower limb of the sun. Time of clironometer. Deg. min. see. h. mtn. sec. 104 42 20 I 46 17 104 45 25 48 16 104 49 00 51 13 104 50 10 53 22 • 104 50 35 54 40 104 51 25 56 37 104 51 10 58 49 104 50 20 59 o6 , 104 49 45 2 01 03 104 48 20 2 02 35 104 47 28 2 03 17 104 45 00 2 05 16 104 43 50 2 06 02 104 43 05 2 06 50 104 41 45 2 07 29 Determination of time, September 14, 1842 — altitude of I he sun. I OBSERVATIONS. FIRST SERIES. SECOND SERIES. Sovble altitude of the Time of chronometer. Double altitude of the Time of chronometer. sun's lower limb. sun's lower limb. Deg. mtn. sec. h. min. sec. Deg. mtn. sec. A. min. see. 37 23 10 6 26 22.5 36 11 20 6 29 40.4 37 04 10 6 27 14.3 35 57 05 6 30 18.5 36 50 30 6 27 53.5 3b 43 40 6 30 56.0 36 36 40 6 28 30.5 36 22 30 6 29 08.3 Interrupted by clouds. Thermometer 60°, RESULT OF CALCULATION • Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. see, 4 28 40 A. mtn. see. 2 00 24 ■ztf lililh ^m'i V r^ [ 174 ] 646 NOON HALT ON THE LEFT BANK OP THE PLATTE. Determination of la lilude, Seplemher 1 6, 1 8'I2 — altitude of the 5? n in (he meridian. OBSERVATIOWS. Double altitude of the lower limb. sun's True centra! altitude. Latitude. Doubk Deg. min. sec. Deg. min. sec. 51 41 44 Deg. min. sec. 40 51 31 Hit 54 15 Dee Index error = — 1 min. 17 sec. ENCAMPMENT ON THE LEFT BANK OF PLATTE RIVER. Determination of latitude, September 16,1842 — altitude of Polaris. OBSEKVATIONS. Index error = — 1 min. 17 sec. HESULT OP CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 41 36 23 A. min. see. 9 16 55 Deg. min. we. 40 52 34 1 ' Double altitude of Polarib. Time of chronometer. Deg. min. see. A. mm. sec. 83 08 10 11 04 35 83 10 40 11 07 41 83 12 25 11 10 44 83 14 35 11 12 50 83 15 40 11 14 41 83 17 15 11 16 21 ■ 83 17 30 11 18 Oi ■ 83 19 40 11 20 26 ■ 83 21 40 11 24 07; ■ 83 23 35 11 26 .38 ■ .\TTE. . of the sxn in tht E RIVER. Itude of Polaris. lironometer it'n. gee. )4 35 >7 41 ,0 44 12 50 14 41 16 21 18 04 20 26 24 07, 26 38 647 [ 174 ] ENCAMPMENT ON THE LEFT DANK OF PLATTE RIVER. Determination of longitude, September 16, 1842 — altitude of Arcturus. OBSERVATIONS. , FIRST HERIKS. SSCONU 8EUIGS. 1 Double altitude of Arc- | Time of chronometer, turus. 1 1 Double altitude of Arc- turus. Dee^. min. sec. 46 55 60 46 02 15 45 10 20 Time of chronometer. Deg. min. iec. k. 60 59 40 j 9 49 08 40 1 9 47 57 40 9 min. 17 22 25 1 sec. 24.5 18.3 26.5 h, min. 9 20 9 30 9 32 see. 12.2 35 51.5 RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. h. min. sec. 7 27 27 Advance. k. mifi. see. 1 68 41 Longitude. 11 i: [ 174 ] e\s ENCAMPMENT ON THE LEFT BANK OP PLATTE RIVER. Determination fif longitude, September 16, 1842 — distance from thejirat limb of the moon to Jupiter. OBSERVATIONS. (With the circle.) Time of chronometer. Apparent distance. h. min. sec. Deg. min. see. 9 36 57 9 42 24 9 46 36 9 52 19 9 58 51 10 03 40 10 06 44 10 10 21 10 14 28 10 18 19 10 21 57 10 25 49 10 28 13 10 30 18 10 33 56 10 35 45 10 37 54 10 40 25 10 42 37 10 45 11 837 45 50 Tliermjometer 55*'.5. RESULT OP CALCULATION. True distance. Mean time at Greenwich. Longitude. Deg. min. see, 42 07 42 h. min. see. 14 56 30 Deg. min. see. 100 23 45 from the fir»t snee. ate. 649 [ 174 3 ENCAMPMENT ON THE LEFT HANK OF PLATTE RIVER. Determination of titne, Si'ptcoiber 17, \S'i2— altitude of Jir^^iurus. OBSERVATIONS. FIRHT NKHIRS. Double nititude of Arc turuH. Dtg. mill. 37 10 35 S8 34 48 BEKUirn 8 ''.RIE8. Double altituJc of Arc turus. 34 33 32 mm. 08 15 50 SO Tirno of chronometrr. /(. min. *■«. y 57 83.7 9 5) 46 10 01 44.0 Meaii time. h. mill. nee. 7 .58 41 KESULT OP CALCULATION I Advance. Longitude. h. min. -re. 1 57 25 SO Longitude. \. min. **c. 23 45 Deti'fminnfion of lutitnde, S>'plembfr 17, ISVi—ttldtude of Polaris OBSEKVATION.S. Double altitude of Polaris. //if /lilt). see. .S3 . 14 00 82 1(J 10 82 17 40 82 • 19 .50 82 21 4.5 82 24 45 82 37 25 82 30 00 82 34 50 82 39 . 50 Time of chronometer. A. 10 10 10 10 10 10 to 10 10 10 van. sec. 14 36 10 37 19 35 21 55 25 12 27 50 31 48 34 51 40 50 47 44 Thennoinetrr 55". Index error .-. ^ — 1 luiu. 1 8 sec. Ill m TruB altitude. Deg. min. see. 41 10 36 •la RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. h. 8 mm. 30 sec. 41 Latitude. Dfg. min. Ht. 40 42 38 NOON HALT OF 6i:PTKMlJKH If, ON THK LKIT BANK OF il.ATrK KIVKR. Ik I n- mi na Hon. of lalitude, Stpfirn/xr 18, liiA'i—allihide of (lie sun in the ineridiiin. OHSKUVATIONS. Double nlliMiilii of \.\w huh's lower liiuli- V-r. tii'n. 101 VJ ,trc. fiO Tru . .•nfnil iiltiUulc iiii'ii. ner. (,9 '29 — - — ' '1 liatitudo. 51 Dei;, min. nee. 40 . 40 21 Iiulcx rrror = — 1 niiii 'A'i hcc. Thprmomcter a0°. NOON HALT OF BEPTEMUEH 19. OW I'HE LEFT BAMK OF PLAT'I'E lilVER. Dstcruiination of luliiude, Spple tuber 19, \Sl2—ai/ifu(/e of the sun in the meridian. Oi^^KnVATIONS. DouMc altitude of the eun's lower limb. Deg. 101 mm see. 04 30 Tnie rentral altitude. Deg. min. see, 60 46 49 Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 40 39 44 Index error s= — 1 min. 32 sec. Thermometer 80". NOON HALT OF SEPJ EMBER 20, ON THE LEFT BANK OF PLATTE RIVER. Dttertnination of lalitude. Seplemher 20, 1842 — altittide of the sun in\ the meridian. r OBSERVATIONS. Double altitude of the lower limb. sun's True central altitude. Latitude. Deg. , min. nfc. 100 00 46 _ Deg. min. see. 50 14 56 Deg. min. sec. 1 40 48 19 1 Index error == — I min. 32 sec. Th^nnometer 77'. f^' ri'KKlVKU. / (he sun in iililudc 40 21 L.Vri'K KIVER. de of the sun in Latitude Iff. min. «««• 39 44 PLATTE RIVER. hude of the sun in 651 [ 17J T e.\cami'.mi:nt on tiik Lr.rT dank of plvitf, uivkh. Jh'.lenninittion of time, Si'p/e»ilur 30, \\\\2-(tlt.itn(ie. of ,//nlu) f^- |40" 48 19 1|, [ 174] 652 ENiJAMPMENT ON THE LEFT BANK OF PLATTE HIVEH, TEW MTLEft HELOW (JKANl) INLAM). « I)tter It. fiO I 9 0.) l.'i.O 4ft 36 oO 1 9 0-, OI.O I Mean time. De:;. min. ite. i 07 H RKSULT OF CALCULATION. Advaiie«. h. mill. nef. 1 53 39 Loiigitutle. DclermitKifion of Intituile, Scpli'mh'r 2\, 1S42 — nometer. SECONn SERIES. Double sun's altitude of the lower limb. Double altitude of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer.^ De^r. 40 40 40 40 41 min. sec. 12 60 27 25 38 35 52 2.5 04 00 h, mill nee. 9 38 24.6 9 39 08.0 9 39 40.2 9 40 19.5 9 40 52 8 Deg. min. sec. 42 01 45 42 12 50 42 26 10 451 3« 55 42 49 25 h. min. tec. 9 43 39.7 9 44 10.0 9 44 49.0 9 45 20.0 9 45 56.0 .fiidex error s= — I min. 32 sec. Thermometer 73°. Observation indifTcreat. ENCA Defer Dou RESUI«T OP CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. k. min. sec. 7 60 14 A. wiiM. see. 1 62 00 Deg 47 C5' hronometer. tin. *ec. 13 39.7 14 10.0 44 49.0 45 20.0 45 56.0 C "4 3 ENCAMPMENT ON THE LEFT HANK OF THE PLATTE RIVER, AT THE MOLTH OF THE LOUP FORK. jDelerminafiun oj latitude, September 2fi, 1812 — altitude of the sun near the meridian. OBSERVATIONS. Thermometer SI®. Index error = — 1 min. 32 sec Double altitude of the sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Dcg. min. sec. A. min. ffC 93 58 45 1 29 17 94 00 30 1 30 13 94 01 45 1 30 43 91 02 15 1 31 17 94 01 00 1 32 04 Interrupted. 94 08 30 Interrupted. 1 35 58 94 10 OQ 1 37 19 94 11 66 1 39 34 94 12 35 1 40 49 Intemipten. see. 39 25 At. min. ue. 1 49 ^ 16 . [tlVER, AT THE Lometor. see. 36.0 33.7 23.0 58. U 66.0 659 . C '^4 ] ENCAMPMENT ON THE LEFT BANK OF THE PLATTE RIVER Determination of lalitiuie, September 29, 1S42 — ullilude. of Polaris- ^ OBSKnVATIOXS. Double altitude of Polaris. Longitude. Deg. tnin. .««c. 8a 40 30 83 4.J 35 83 44 10 83 45 05 83 46 00 83 48 W 83 50 40 83 52 46 83 53 50 83 54 40 Time of chronometer. h. min. HfC. 10 21 37 10 24 30 10 26 37 10 28 46 10 30 61 10 33 19 10 35 24 10 39 41 10 41 22 10 43 18 Thennometer 40°. Index error ^ — 1 rain. 38 sec. RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Jkg. 41 mtn. see. 52 05 Mean time. h. 8 mm. 43 see. 56 Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 41 02 15 i! 4 Hi 4 ':(. I n.i. m ill ' :i. w [ 174] 660 ENCAMPMENT AT BELLE VUE, 0\ THE RIGHT BANK OF THE MTS80UW RIVER, AT THE TRADIX! POST OF THE AMERICAN FUR COMPANY. Delerininatirm of luntfiluJe, Ocloher 2, iSA2—ultiluiie of the sun. OBSERVATION». iltitude FIKST S£RI>;H. i 1 oinefpr. 8KC0ND SGRir.R. Double of the Time of cliron Double altitude of the Time of chronometer. sun's lower limb. sun's lower limb. A. Deg. min. »ee. h. min. .tec. Deg. min. see. min. tec. 48 29 43 10 07 07.5 49 42 25 10 10 49.8 . 18 48 20 10 08 04.0 1 49 52 00 10 11 . 18.6 49 09 10 10 09 06.6 50 05 00 10 12 00.4 49 20 50 10 09 42.8 50 16 05 10 12 30.4 49 30 10 10 10 105 1 ; 50 i 24 55 10 13 00.0 Index error =- — 1 min. 38 see. RESULT OF CALCULATION. Mo&n time* Advance. Longitude. A. min. see. 8 21 41.5 h. min. sec. 1 48 41.6 Deg. min. sec. 95 47 46 Determination of latitude, October 2, 1842 — altitude of the sun in the meridian. OBSERVATIONS. Double altitude of the lower limb of the sun. Time of chronometer. Deg. miM. see. h. min. see. 89 58 10 32 56 89 58 56 33 36 89 69 20 34 20 90 00 05 36 or 89 59 55 36 66 89 69 45 38 31 89 59 40 39 32 89 69 10 M 27 89 59 10 41 17 89 58 25 42 26 89 67 30 43 21 89 65 20 45 63 F THE MISSOURI Uli COMPANY. ti/e of t lit .sun. ERir.S. Time of chronometer. h. min. sec. 10 10 49.8 lU 11 . 18.6 10 12 00.4 10 12 30.4 10 13 00.0 Longitude. *eg. min. sec. )5 47 46 / the sun in the onometer. see, 56 35 20 07 55 31 32 27 17 26 21 63 661 [ ^74] ENCAMPMENT AT BEU.EVUE, ON THE RIGHT BANK OF THE MISSOURI RIVER, AT THE TRADING POST OF THE AMERICAN FUR COMPANV. Jh'leriuinalioii of lotii^ilwlf, Oclnhr 3, 184.i — aUilinic of the sun. FinsT SKIIIES. i ol chronomotcr. ; 8EC0WD 8KIUES. Double altitud [• of the 1 Tim.' Double altitude of the I' ime ol chronometer bud'r lower liinh. 1 i 1 1 sun'K lower limb. , JiefT. mill. .sec 1 ' A. mill. ace. /)eg. min. sec. /(. win SIT. 3a 4'J 00 5 33 13.U 38 34 55 f) 31; .'>3 9 39 1:9 40 i ft 34 12 3 38 23 30 5 37 26.8 39 07 20 r, 3") 10.2 38 10 00 ■1 3H 03.8 38 56 80 ."1 35 4S.3 j 37 57 35 r. 38 40.0 38 45 50 5 i 3(J la.o 1 i 37 16 10 5 30 13.7 Index error =, — I riiiii. 3Msec. UKSfJi/r OF CAI-CliLA'lIUN. Mean time. A. mill. .fcr. 3 46 52 •.\dvan<'f. fi. mill. it'C. 49 38.5 . Longitude. Determinalion of Irmgi/ude, October 4, 15 12- — Utitude of I he .sun OBSERVATIONS. TIR8T SERIB«<. AKCOXU SKItlES. Double altitude of the j I'ime of chronometer. | eun's lower limb. Ik;^. min. sec 48 H 10 28 43 00 09 48 ;8 49 49 30 50 l(» 05 k. 10 10 10 10 10 /inn. 10 ;i 11 12 13 see. 30. 0* 14.0 57.3 51.0 19.0 Double altitude of the I Time of chronometer, nun's lower limb. l)eg. mill. 49 16 49 49 19 '49 23 30 37 45 gee. 50 15 30 00 05 Index error — I min. 35 hvc. / h. min. nee. 10 13 42.0 10 14 04.4 10 H 23.6 10 14 46.0 10 15 11.0 KKSL'LT OF CALCULATION. Mean time. h. min. sec. 8 23 17.6 Advanco. intJt. 49 sec. 53.3 Longitude. Org. 95 mm. 47 sec. 46 11 !l It M. ! lIJi [ n t ] (yG2 ENCAMI'Ml^iN'i' AT UET.I.KVUE, ON THE UIGMT BANK OF THE MISSOURI RIVER. AT THE TRADLNG POST OP THE AMERICAN PfJR COMPANY. Diltrnihutlii.n of lalilwle, OctoherA, 1842 — .vim'.v altilude in the tnc- r'ulian. OBSERVATIONS. Double allilude of thf sun's lower limh. Jetr. mm. .sec. 88 ao 10 88 2.^ 30 88 as .-iO. 88 26 4S )^8 S6 45 88 27 25 88 26 40 88 26 00 83 2) 45 88 24 25 88 22 40 88 21 40 88 HI 30 Time of chronometer. ' n. mm. DCC 1 28 21 1 .^3 23 1 34 14 1 35 27 1 38 10 1 40 08 1 41 47 1 42 33 1 43 06 I 44 r>9 1 46 28 1 47 21 1 48 4t KESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. ( , :^^____ Latitude. " -■ «MH C63 r 174 ] ir 1' ' THE MISSOURr iK COMPANY. Itide in the me- iiometer. »ec. 21 23 14 27 10 08 47 211 06 09 28 21 41 ENCAMPMENT ON THE LEFT BANK OK MISSOURI KIVER. OPPOSITE TO THE UIOHT BANK Of THE "MOIJIH OK THE PLATJ'K RIVER. Dttermination of lulihtde, October 1, 1842 — ultituile oj I'vlttris. OnSKItVATIONS. Doubin altitude of Polaris. Deg. tnin. tee. 84 11 10 84 11 50 84 14 60 84 16 30 "84 18 2.5 84 20 00 84 20 25 81 21 30 84 ♦ 23 40 84 24 60 Time of chronometer. * h. mm. ate. 10 51 21) 10 A3 26 10 56 ;h 10 59 47 11 03 54 11 05 48 11 07 39 11 10 54 11 l:l 18 11 15 15 Thermometer 63*. Index error ^ — 1 min. 2 1 sec . *E3ULT OP CALCULATION. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. Latitude. I)eg. min. gee. 42 07 22 h. min. see. 9 13 17 Deif, min. see. 41 02 12 [ 174 ] 6G4 ENCAMPMENT ON THE RIGHT BANK OF THE MlSglOUUI RIVER. Determination of tiititiult, Iktu/nr 5, 1842 — ultitodt of Polaris, OBSKHVATIONS. Double al tituik of Polnris. min. • ffPc ■J') me of chrunonicter. neff. h. mm. lec. ■8t 28 (to 9 37 28 8-' .-JO 00 9 40 55 9i 32 40 9 43 55 82 35 10 9 47 51 82 37 40 9 51 13 Thermometer 69°. Index error =s — 1 min. 21 sec. KKSULT OK CALCULATION. True altitude. D/.'g. mm. SIC. 41 14 37 Mciui time. 7 Mtn. 53 tec. 30 Latitude. Deg. min. sec. 40 34 08 9 NOON HALT AT BERTHOLET'iS ISLAND, MISSOURI RIVER. Determination of latititde^ Octob,.r (}, 1842 — altilude of the aun in iht meridian. - Double altitude of the !fe. 90 07 1U lU ft-. fl-l.a \ 1 (13 21.4 «9 ar 20 III 5(t 40.0 87 00 3J 11 04 5;\0 fig (lU l,-> 1(1 .OS Ofi.O HO »0 25 11 on 2ft. 88 43 11 10 &9 37.0 i 8't 07 0(1 11 (17 41.0 88 (8 30 11 01 211.0 8J 33 40 II 0!) 18.(1 RESULT OP CALCULATION. Mean time. Advance. Ijongitude. h. min. tte, 9 11 50 A. min. $te. 1 69 24 f »l I'l latitude. (nin. see. 27 08 III 49 [ 174 ] 666 ENCAMPMENT ON THE LEFT BANK OF THE MISSOURI QUAKTER OF A MILS UELOW TUB MOUTH OF NIHHNABATONA KIVEK Determination qf latitudtf October G, 1848 — altitude of PolatU. OBSXaVATIOMl. Doobia tltilwie of Polwii. Time of chronometct. Dtg mm. Me. A. min. tec. 82 U UU 10 13 60 fcS S3 30 10 1^ 06 61 %\ SIV 10 17 04 8S 2", Si 10 18 65 81 27 3^ 10 so fl2 8S 27 40 10 S3 03 K3 Vi 55 10 SI m S2 81 35 10 27 13 91 34 80 10 SO 42 63 a:i 40 10 31 50 Tb«rnoaieter 470. Index 1 mln. 36 see «£8VLT OF CALC0J:.ATI0N. True altitude, Def^. mil. tee, 41 13 03 Ijatitude. Deir. min. get. 40 16 40 TEROF A !>/" Polari*. «b7 [ 174 3 ElfCAMPMENT ON THE LEfT BANK OF THE MllMOUKi KlVtIU. Dtterminatiun of latitude, October 8, l?42 — altitude of Polaris, ODSEnVATtONS. \i ,'i r tee. 50 06 04 6.e^. VI In HO 40 8U 49 8U 50 80 61 80 h3 80 6ti 8i) 67 FO 67 81 00 61 03 me orchroiiometrr. h, min. fee. 46 n 9 40 0') 9 bl 17 9 6t 31 9 5'. : 05 3t 10 00 •M True aUituda. Thermomoler 36'^. Index error ==• 1 rain. 21 ncc RESULT Olf CALCULATION. Mean time. Dfff- min, k'c. 40 25 29 h. mt'i. tee. 8 07 10 Latitude. Dfg- min. tre. 39 36 03 If! V. C ^74 ] 668 HALT AT THE MOUTH OF THE KANZAS niVER. 700 FEET ABOVE TUB LEVEL OF THE GULF OF MEXICO. Determination of longitude^ October 10, 1343 — altitude of the sun. ODSEnVATIOXS. HALT n Deter mil FinST SKIIIKfl. BKCOSTD BKUIEB. D lulilc a\'i J lower liu.b u e of tho . thj sill T.me of c'lronomclcr. Double altitude nf the ! lower limb of the sun. i Deg, min. icr. 41) 21 35 40 31 50 40 41 00 40 51 10 41 00 lU Time of chronometer. Deg. tn'n. 39 08 39 27 39 44 39 57 40 09 aer. 15 60 3i) SO S8 /(. 9 9 9 y mill. 41 4.'> 46 4fi 47 .sc. n.vo 31.0 17.5 .59.0 31.0 h. min, 9 48 9 43 9 49 9 49 9 49 see. U6.0 30.0 Oi.3 31.0 59.5 Double ahj In«]e.Y eiror := — 1 min. 7 see. RESULT OP CALCULATIOX. II. an time. A. min. 7 69 03 Advance. h. 1 m'n. 48 uc. Itongitude. Dig. min. aec 01 33 64 Thie 44 ,BOVE TIIB the sun. G69 [ 174] HALT IT THE MOUTH OP THE KANZA8 RIVER, 700 FEET ABOVE THE LEVEL OP THE GULP OP MEXICO. Determination of latitude, OctobT 10, 18 la — sun*s altitude in the me- ridian. OBSERVATIONS. }f chronmncter min. He. 48 U6.0 48 »0.U 49 o-^u 49 31.0 49 59.5 gitudo. Double ahitutk of tilie lower limb of the Bun. TifiiB of chronometer. Dfg. min. we. h. min. Me. 87 41 10 1 21 01 87 44 15 1 22 37 87 46 60 ■ 1 24 36 87 49 60 1 26 07 87 61 20 1 27 45 87 6S 15 1 32 38 87 65 30 1 31 05 87 64 30 1 38 30 87 63 10 1 41 (if 87 61 15 1 43 1! 87 49 05 1 44 66 87 46 15 I 46 40 87 43 20 1 46 35 87 38 30 I 60 51 xn. 32 tec. 64 RESULT OF CALCULATION. True altitude. Time of transit by chronometer. Latitade. Jkg. min. tee. 44 12 21 A. min. au. 1 35 42 Des. min. ate. 39 06 08 The foregoing ob:>ervations are given in civil time. ■ s i 7> W I H] H^ 11 I' h :;•;: m METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. The repriri scarce! 'I'h« b; J^oiiis, Thii io roiueie Kange 13a re Ran^ Mean E Minimum Maximutr Kange III th( designa vatioiis observe perhaps month I3essel a 673 [ 174] REMARKS. The elevations which have been given in Ihe course of the prercding reporl are fnuiided upon the aimrxed liaronielriral obsorvniioiis, and, it is scarcely ntci'ssnry los«y,nre ofl'ered only as ll e liest ii dications we h:ivc. The barometers were compared willi those of Dr. G. Eiigelmaii, of St, Louis, Missouri, whose observalioiis are given for a corresponding period. The I'ollowiiig is the result of forty cornparaiive ohservntions of ihree ba- ronieiers institnied by liim from May 22d to May 29ih, 1812, at St. Louis, Range of barometers dnrirg that ptriod 0".400, teniperatiire 60° to 75°. Uurometer E, as observed fur and noted in the journal of tlie academy : «= Fremont's Troughton (T.) — 0".136 ^ Fremont's Carey (C.) — 0".178. Range in the differences : Mean E Minimum Maximum Kange Fremont's Troughton (T.) — (I'M 36 ^ Fremont's Carey (C.) — 0".178, do do — 0".1I6 ^ do do 0".I67. do do — 0".1.')0.=. do do 0".I90. do do 0".034 ^ do do 0".023, In the annexed observations, tlie barometers, Troughton and Carey, are designated respectively by the letters T. and C. In calculation, the obser- vations at the upper stations were referred to the xin^^le corresponding observation for the relative period of lime at the lower station. It would, perhaps, have been belter \j refer to the mean of the observations for the month at the lower station. In calculation, the tables used were those of Bessel and of Ollmanns, as given in Hmnboldt. n ill, ■ .1 I [ no 674 & 48 a u « ^ i.si a; .§: 3 X-a ^ o •as5 t» 3 O, u3: ^ S"=s-. ^ -1^ r J- 5, "^"2 *■ -§•1: '^ s I mI I1-st.sj|^ 8 ^ S5* §•3. I U tlllllSII . k 'I 55 .gp O M _ II or-c*C'4 « n — * ■^ 00 CO « o in t I n >o too o F^ m I* r» 2 ao0>oao I I • f- CO o »« 4« r» «^ r- ao^t«oe i0«e>Rro>oO)OkAO)O)O30>9>O%O>O) e «o«et«t> e«^©o — •»j'<«e*eo©-ovioao>o«>()« — f»v^w«oQO §5S 1 t- flO e«o*»»i<©©e» — «^o ooc4rr9-(ecQe4t«e« e>o©90oa>e = a»a» t I « I • It) © lo (o e 0)9>00©0>0000 ©^ N « «o> © © s ss?; s 7. .S © o a o g CO w CO cc ■< ai -"lift; < jgo^ © © s m 00 o ^ooAe«' — ^(o^•©ela©e* © e* r« 00 o ss ^;s ^^ S •<»; -<»u << flk © O 9 CO CO o* Hao©©->t«©o>©' © o * o © o «> CO CI (O to o « o C» t» O W t» »* t" 3 © 9» "" ** ^ © © - «o CO w I* ej o ©© e s A 9 ssssisigss; S ?S5S S »u -<-< (C nnn — r> «o e> © <«■ t« I ^ eo * :i I |§ § 675 C n4] 1 - c^jS it o * 2= ? • •§ S i a^ -^ •5 o <* lo ^ © e © © M © © r> m © © o si id >i« {- OB t> W © © s © © O « b- lA >o t 1 t 1 1 1 1 ' (b ' >A 00 © w t« « © © at © » 1 1 t t I 1 «o •* WS © © , © « — l^ © 1 « t« r- © t« I- © CO © © 00 e« 04 e* e* e« © © 9 lO (0 © x: © o n © © 9 oio o f. «B O OO 00 © (O OD © — 00 eo © « © © t>- 1- © © © © © ^ M -< © N — »«e* M ^ e« © 90 «0> © © 0> A 00 00 QD 00 t* t^ i^ ^ S 9* © op » © ac OD 00 00 a« w e« 9« e« e« »« Oft 00 00 00 00 Qo 0* M e* e* M e« at M © SS 5g :i ^ ««i&; < a^ cu •< « TO « g§ §1 O lO M ^ t« "^ © © — -^ « « 3 o 1— « I* i J IS [ 17^ J ()7(> 4> s o •5 o •c: c •n .S is 8 . e CO 1 m .3 I ao 1, L • H « d P -^ ,« a -a r3 ^ "2 ^ ii .S .S 5 .5 s a T3 -o fee E -o S £ § £ S uuuuoa 2 -a i M Ml o o o •»- 0> MS «o * * o >o m » I I t n m e lO r~ ^ o> in o eo o « i«^ 6 ' -I — «f (O « t^ 3 < 3 •os«nooo<0oooointf;o>nco>o>ar>««ao>nt«ioo laooMOOBiao *-«xr:©»TfOQDeO"»'eo (Otovt«(o^«]>h>r««oaoft 0) o» m ^ U tf: (O OB {-• t-> CD ^o>ao«eoaoc»^ — AMC0t«'r«O'<^'« — {oomaooioor* aoaoo>aD>ft^viat>-;D«ine<:ncqnn>A^ocoe>>->— 3D aooDaoacflOvaoaocdapxadadao'eabaoaoxaoaoVaoaoi^ e4e*mMete«e«e4e«eiete«e«»ie«»«e«e4c*e4e«e4e*e«'i< •«# 9» e» o « o * o o -< «« ao I* »* o o o 9 A a> "^ 00 00 00 X h* t^ CD M 04 e« 44 e< M e« 3 I . . ou !^'<: s'^ss^s ■'o ^ .. .. -^ ^ .. .. ^ .. ^ -. .. ^ __^ t> — «e«(o^i09*r<> — Q 3} «D i fl» «• 11 o «-> « •-» g i 'S§ •S 3 >-» «■• "-> •s 43 ® 3's s* B 9< e C^ i i§ §1 a fccS sz;o •• W *» ^ Sn S - o P o lA M J3 Ou3 p., '8 J «s *s ■si **-» J-s e ^ ig i^u E ., o ■— 8 .5 E " •?« j» a >> 3 _^ «, o o o c «e OP o o c i» 00 lo c r: tt (O IQ o I 00 ^« N (<• w C4 e« 04 e< M • • • • ■ •— ■ ao •-• ^ a a i§ CI O *>) ■ OOg o <~ - . OS tS ai B o .S .HThJ 1-3 'k "^ "^ a £ 8, o 8 .E=- Bb ^ '«S^ J'. '=^1 .a bo %> 3 =; 2 ~ c " - " Ifn ^•^■ -C — 0= -J V y- tf a = ''^ - : 't •!; ^ B ^• ■» i 5 ..f 5 0) a. 5, ^ 5 e .E 2 ~ ■a bo a SI ' ^ ^ E D ' « ^ to'^'^u '>j:jx LUS^q uu n e* o « o 3 > I 000 ««' W ifj •o tc o O O O M •rf t^ 3^ ^ (f o c:: GO n 00 I t I I I I I I o 3 c« in •o -> o o to O! — TV Cu;iOttp>0 09 «<; « 00 et o a> lO o CO w n ^ Q^ 00 t^ t** V ■eotiooocsoom o«(tw»c>»oirt o':>o wwjcior-coow ^» o s o »* m r» 00 — Wf^ir>x050> (- O CS s ** — •TS'N'^raKlS <£CO>Q 0> '^ 06 aj ot i-i i; eg c* c* o< e* e« e« ^^c»o — ^w— o« — O' 06 «^ !>■' f~ «>•" »^ r* 1^ ■Q0— ce — McD 09a>Q0tCr^e*< <^o M>« 01 «' i« 3*5 15 1^ ^ I II a I? I I i. . 1 8 ? I •n s [ 174] 678 C o Ik v. •9 »l ft V Si § "2 m o < 3 o 670 [ 174] O »l ' _• 3 it M « — br >. 3 o to If S ^ u I <» ^? CT-"^ ^ 3 i^ j( ■5 .r- r- "" E i e >f 9 ri 2-3 S ?". i ^ - U e ■a e S . E^ M Cj> c •-t •i a Is _ ^ *^ ^ A ^ u « 3 c 3 r. •5: >^ rt K -^ ^ -^ *I1 •cr'i.'^ cs — = ■&^ = i^ S W =-3 »'6 _2. .MS i e -3 .5 JB - » « « - « S ^ t; r. •* ;: SI •- c w. c c c -3 _ -5 -= -3 .= n = 3 2 5 ^ - 3 » — S 5 "2 "5 2 - c *: -I T ^ _ _ is « = - 3 3 ~ 4. « •€ > — o $ « C: — l» , a, A «-; o j % cj i < £ J3 "^ ■ — «c iae^^3eioinr-o>'ret3ocaot>-t^ i^o» — >re«c««»«='r-c X nt or, (- 1- i6 'r lO « -£ -- « o — — cio>ow— xo»i~r"T»i~-sflD^ o — «~xeoirto -co «i<_ff*o— -o>C5o«-sscon«-«*co 'O lO lO i^' ••'• rf; it x?" '~ N CI e< w w e« c« e< w N w N s< w M «< s-" ti n «< w w e-» »• »< e* iiiiittiiiiiii I I I • I • • • • ^ ■>• V tea ^ wS wis «s -"^S '^*'»5!S-S-5S- S"< C4 3 ^ e» 3 e* e^ c< CO«c— (»«— 0O« tco»--«f*«cfloe»Xe»«Q «ote f5 I • 10 r> o « 2 >»- •• ::: 3 -, iX X e 3 o o ^ J5 •-» *• ^ "!, o a A o o ii^-^ y^o x; o J' oS ?;y o }«;u C 174 ] 6S0 « c n ta to u t^ "C 5 V. V. 1C 0i (.0 ?5 aJ X = § • — "^ '— •* . . •' te .-■2 ii a •• .. •g « ^ j; :? ? £""f. £ 5 - .• , ■-' j3 J3 •3 8 3 I <> n ^ I X OD u gel- ST' §.■ to • s. n ow 2 £-9 |:=:^l i is « - « -c s s *-. i of, iiiill II 11 fJ.S.Eli-|| ■5 " -a ^ .§ .5 '*^ i ^' 1 to 1 <0 1 1 1 1 •000 ' ' u t- ' iti o> >o i t t» « 1 « ^ oi 1 « « © x »■ ' »• 00 » />. i- 10 <0 10 'eor-r- 'oi-«i>« • J, j Attached 1 thermometer. »<. « t-; r r? « « t» t- II 1 1 tdo>e*e*«i>antd-iQii9tniti t ooo»o>oot-«o«owi-t»»oooo S ai<><;iriAini<> <0 CQ OD t<> « xa (O (0 ^^«*o««o — lO — »»>do~ (0r«ooD • u; >a .c 0' in 10 tn >o ic ic v> 10 id lei o joaaastgoooooSaoabh; r> f; to tT xi lO in xj x> m' lO lO 10 •£ • n - 1 ' a en ^.4 p^ *4 pi« ^m t-m .« 1 <0 h> CD •-• M *4 r S .1 ft! I s o 681 [ m] M •j3 c S 3 E -^ u •r •• B U- g t D-S, ^- ST -.3 S. tn . s. a >, a "i S -3 ."W •- U *' 3 lis- B •^ >: ^ it ^ '^-,' i55J J r ■-3 -^ -J ,: = C C H I ^'siSy 'SSS o s> irt "5 I O !'• A ^> ^ / ^ 44 OB o oo a> r- «o «o o t- © » t^ « w - O no lO «o» to 1 «« e le o [^It4 ] 682 Co « •2 -^ ~" L 53 M ? O <, 4J 1S hn C«3 o ^ u li^ »I 2 «^ c 5^ u JU "53 es « C s o •9 f^ s •■ o &) "S a ?3 a ^ V tt •s -o Sa o o •»* ■a « ia u a •i»j .^ »« ^ o s CI i *J _o •s. 4) 5; &; ,x ^ k •a o ^ s bo S .S w) bo ja-S-Ti •^5 -S c « -^ S S te « 2 _^ is -p-a »i , g^ " SB. S S & J 8 i 25 ;< o o y w So I 00 I I I I I I I 00 I I I I o I I I I I I I I I •WW WXtOi 03 W ^>: . . -w WW w« OJ CO 3> © ■^ ^ t- t» t- I- 1 f» 1^ t' »• t~ t~ t» r>- t* (• t" 1 t~ 00 00 X 1 t- l^ 00 < Q 1. I 3 O X OT t^ « N «<«:-< — loot^m 00— — oioo^o ^o^•t^oo m c^ e* <-< .oooJt«b-ODO> -Hr--^— g^^^^ .wcsco OdO)AO> O)O>000D 00.00 00 Oi a Cr>O>O C7»0>C7d d I I I I I I I I I I I I t I I • I I I I I I I I I I I h H ^ b ^ 9«e»eo«5too>e»eo«^o> 3s>e»eoai3o»«soo>3o>e»co aj-H 03 — ao^ 00— ao — e« CO A mHK. 683 C 174 1 m 3 g - « a s s; & J s Q-?' I I I I I I ^^ g ^ ^. ^ ^ ?. r- eo — o to 05 — • M 05 00 ^• t»- t" ® e» m « 00 00 K I 95 OS O t^ t» 00 f M C« e* iR — ^^ I— I F^ , CO CO to C5 05 C5 84 C« C< O 05 CT5 c« c* »t W « OJ 3 05 «« CO 00 >-< in ■i I _o O O C3 O 3 C3 "13 *7 tt ^ I I I I I -J I I t I I 1 o o I I I I I I I I I I I I o I I I I I ( I a o • iiiiiiiiiiiiii iiiiiiiiiiiiii itiiiitt-a cskR;cmlc:;oceuJmco^■^•coco^'■Qoao;o>nl'^aoao>n^^•colac~■l^>^ Tf r^ so 'j' lO o t^ t- t^ l^ O O CO iQ r- !>• «o to r*< 50 05 CD to to VO to O -."t to •«(< j^ r- t>. t^ t»r*^•^»to^c^•c»^»■ e« N CO -H l^ t" t~ ^^ 00 to 05 CJ -^ 05 00 ^ ^ flO w 05 05 05 05 e* e* e* e* 05 to lO t« 05 05 05 05 C« M « « wt-toi'i loeoeom lOtoooirt-iO'-inTti eoeocoeo .eoeocoeo .^•*^ioioioiO'«*ies r***| ■••>!•■ ■■••••■ O50505O5 O5O505O5 050505050505050505 05 O •— lO ©* CO CO CO 05 05 05 05 C^ CDb IB lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllt •I I ©9o5e [ "'4 J 684 1 S I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I S I I I I I I I iS^wiS^ ^^ ^^i^ 03 0) u (a S ^ p Pm If < IT us lO ia«oc«t~co a> o c* o -<«ioe« oMW)t~ — eoio — It^oooooo looooenoD loooooot- rt^i^t^t- OS <0 Tj< M ioe*o>oo eoi— 'OJ—' loosw— • »* «««« ,«we Od W— ^— ,«00'-< (N I- ■-< «o e» w ec eo O) OS O O) e«c»iNe* e«Ne«M e4&ic«M a>cft o>eno>o> osoiAa:' »« N c« e* <3> 0S 9> 0> T«e«©»e» MMMe* _ -*' S "^ 5 J ^^00 r^ «-^ n « oH >-i M « O •c § 685 [ 174] 4 i o 2 "S O M I I I I I I I I • I • cf> o» 00 « ^ eo » lO «e t» t~ « j^ _ eo >a -• t- I t» t» t» t» M t- '-< W »— • e» c» « eo ct; oi « at o> e« M e< 94 e* f— CD <-< '" i i LIU s s o © o 6 o QQQQQ "• r? •» i^ r^ ^-. r^ r^ /-\ Tn r-\ r-\ /-\ t K * fc. ^ i li 3 O S S StJ S P 0) »« 0) ja ? «j * hopqo o e« T»i o> o ■* I I I I I I I I I I I -;-*-. s^ I -; I I I I I I I I -; I I I I I I I I I I I « I « o o d o c o iiiiiiiiiiiiii iiiiiiiii iiiiii iiii i«a ^^ ' ^^ W •* eo -!(< I > t* t^ J^ 00 o « >- I t' 00 MJ '. © O W X I 00 W 00 t- o o c «o I 00 00 00 t~ •* Ol CO — I I t» t«- 00 00 ■<*©-" I 00 o> o> cioaoooooaoocao it>* «eooi*» COOS''*''* — '^^■*o a in -^ 'a ooocooo «''i"W cooos^mw-'t" — eoaa O 0> OS ^ C« J« N «^ cs OS OS o C» 54 0* S» OS OS OS OS « N C 54 OS O) Cft OS IN C4 N N OS OS OS OS e4 C» 5-I 94 OS OS OS *» ff4 '14 O^'TSOSOSOSOSOS CbUi e4.'^S'4«^OSi4C<;OS,?OS»»COS*.?Oi -.«iN sosncoo 3 an - - as GO - ■-.» S « i I c 54 M W e< cm] 686 3 a C o ■a Q Q Q ■m a a I r! 3 J3 !s "> 60 T3 .5 S - . „ B 3 §=1 !a ;i ^ « i 'sow EC rl I I I I I I I i I I •a — 35 — « I »» I — — O o odd I t I I I I I I I I I I I I I #11 «iii)iiiiiiiii«*) C c/aa coca ca XKtix a o S i «c 00 « o» t^ t^ 00 Qc 3> ae '* f- t- t-- • at .■J A' t^ 00 o) 00 e* to (C <0 (O OS ^ 5o in « ^»• r- t- B o t» CO CO cc ^— t^OO -HSOrJ-W ^OiO'^ tvOrOh- Qpl-iCf^ 0>0) OdOiOS^ t3i 0> Oi Gi Oi 0> Ci Oi ^ Oi Oi Gi 0> 0> Oi 0> c»in «<»»e«iM c*««e*c4 e«e4e4(M «*©•«<« ?»e*e»e« « IS lil 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 • 1 1 1 1 1 • II s 3i % $ ^ i S X 'C *c 'C 'ci *S 5 c c c c d a o3ar:iNe0O30Si?»«O3i»NC0OP0J«'l«Ci,5 -*<«* « O 3 OJ « w -H OJ — FH X -H ...0) -^ —03 -H -. CO 00 — — flO — ;.. 00 A o <-• e* n ff» N « 1> e* e» a or i >% a •J V >T ►-s o 13 O ■ I I eo c 00 f> flO £- 04 e« 687 C 174 ] ^^a 4; i. a B III sis h s a C8 > OS MOW I I I I o O 1 I *^ 00 OS ^ ., ., %6 -a « 3 E S^ S « ., ., s some uded uded T) 3 O o o fcl N «> u V ^ « f > OKOO I I t I < 5i? > • . ma. . > > > O « O .- « M TO 00 I"- '•" N * I ^ :0 lA t» i^ t» 1111111"=! 3 I I I I I I C I I I I I ss I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I ■ I I i I I ■ I I I I I I • III till ■••■ill •^ 'fsl H . . ^ t>3 H [>'^ H H CO GO CO (»» 00 00 cjox ^ — oao«oit~ — ^t»Tio^t^--t^osi»e*oo«ift — torn 06 t~ iT) 00 00 t^ l~ t* t» t» ■^ CO 7* Oi C t~ f to O »» 5* Ol t» t- r- « n oi ^^ oi t^ tr- e» -. --CO -• n o> -" 05 no , e»s CO ©» N e* t-> OS 1 CO CO CQ cc 00 W •* CO 1 T* Tj. Tj" rr 0 t >!• ,§ ss 0> 0> 9> Ol n C« c* iM 0> O) O) o> e< M c» e« 0> Oi 0> O) « :« M ff» 0> 0> 0) O) e« M o< Oi Oi Oi 0> Oi 9* 0* e* a 0* O) O) cs 0> M « M IM Oi Oi Oi Oi at ot c* c* •c B eC-< SOJNCO-'SoJMCOO SOS-^CO — CO — >-9»eoo-< 3o>c«eoo3osc,-»co "CO " t-<"CO •-■ "CO •-• o o a e* m 9 5 9 "CO " " OQ UO C 174] 688 no « a *^ a o o I 2 £i o »^ P-\ s « o o %) •»» i -3 C J I o a i •S I a -3'B'S 1 O ►» JS « S'2 1 1 "3 ■a o oo !» j| 5 5 ^-i 5 3 ^ ^ '-"-'»-"-'►-"-"-'*-' o o *^ ^ "^ •< I I I I I I I I I I -; I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I iiiitiiititi iiiii III III 1 jjj^ . '....' 00 a- CO '/) GO OD 05 flo oc 00 ^ >5 ^ »' i ^;Kfe!;^fcrZi5? HHpqpq ooaooo VM^— oee««« e*^»j a> Oi V n n CO ^ ■^ n i* -^ —ojiow o> er> » C« IN (N >« on « eo ...<.><.. ^' tn iQ lo >o . w to in tc 0) 0)0)0)01 0)0)C)0) 0)9)030) 0)0)0)0) 0)0) }49«ctc< e)9- as -^ —"30 f- 3^ •c a I 0} •S -a c a G a a wo 3-eio»eoo 3ooe*«-- 3o)t»wo 5o)« — t»o)— i-ao -» >-co »-< —CO -^ 5 w CO 689 [ 174] «o||^^^ I I I I I I I III III www ^kJ . o >n to CO 00 00 00 00 &- o> o> o> OJ 9< e* 64 e< w e« I I (S *a — «o-^«oos*»ooor~-ei9teco^oo — ^ o^•»»oofloo>^»^■QOOso> oot^-oowoof^soooaoooi^t-ocojost^t^oooeost^t^ooojost^t-oo ^^ ieo«eo5te I'S'wo ii^Niosoooeo lONme* i^t-oio ie»«t»>o leoteooin in oooo oooooDoo ocan oocoaoaoooac ooooooao x>ooo>oc xoooooo oooooooo oo 35 ^1 ^1 5 «cov ajao^o cstO'^N co ^* ^* ^p I *^ ^^ ^* '^ O lA O o>Oi Oi Oi Oi Oi o> Oi Oi 0)00000) oooo oooo oooo o o o o *»« e«C4»ic4 NNw &«e4c««4iNe4 Ns«o»w we*Ne« ossmm »' e* e* e* « I I I I I I • III! I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I O C4 CO o I o c* i^ — «3 — CO O 3 O 64 CO O - a? N CO © S ffj S» <-• -< oB — < s»coooo3oe*eo©floc4Co-H3oNeoosoweooaoe»co— 3o -OS ,1 03 — — -H CO -^ ^ cc -. -H 00 r- « as ff» [ 174 ] 690 % I I I I '^ '^ '-a -2« 3 3 o o IS' ;w <£ .a .3 1 = 1 = lit: I 6C U bO ■2^ e >>S IK ♦^ EC C4^ I -S .L'^i S >>! « o S "Sis-s § I * ,5 w •« S » a g 2 11.? (X) >>^ ' h*^ f^ ^^ 3 3 8J o « I I I I I I I I I I I I o o d d I I I I in o «e o o o e d o ,0 WW ^S^^ ' w w»w wwww • W • WW W^ osoQcoSQ^asoooo WWaQaooQaQWoQWcnaxn Woo aox fc;,« NWi^WN^o-^iot* - Oi 9» N e« 35 t* ^ C*3 CO 3) O) O) (N M 8* « ff« CO CO d d d m N W O ic- I '«''®5359« ec»eo® 03354^ n ^ a: --» (» -« e« ■-1 10 ■-> «« - OQ - flQ i% M CO to o : X >^ 691 [174] B O le 'T3 C s ■g 6 "So (A l-i nl •3 I I I la o (o o e« -^ d d o I I III • I • I lO la o M I (o « 00 t- t' 00 00 « 00 « « : 1 d d la d> 9i Oi rHK » » I. O "H ^ I 5 I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiitiii lO o •oco t»»in-'i'^neo^o^»e^Tj^oaoooT^aoo(OkOWt«t^(o>Qt>t«t>iCOot«aDr^«(Ot«aoaoco>oaoao<)OC«(o s lO 00 a)^e«o> 9>m^o oco>ne4 lA^oato coknt~coit-oe«a>(caooe*'^t0 00 IN i®NN«o leoNNN |t»t*t»N INNNN iNNNt-' t-aowt-Nt-waoooN — 0« Ift • • I Ok 0> O) Me* e« •^ji in lO o ^ ^ T^ >n CA v'% O) O e« lii e« *« S»— -S)— ■ — 'OSirtW 09 0)0 ff» e« ff» N 0)03 s< « 9< e* «<-n toeooNe••.■•••• oooo ooom oooooooooo .3o»» COtOO^O"- -•-■ o o 0»«<0030»«MO 30 — C50 -< 32 —I -^ OQ «e*wo 3oe*«o ^H 3Q 1— i #-^ 3Q •i^ ^H _.0©»Tii03o«^»>,3 0««OS OQ -H ,-103 — iSOO -H rHOO « «0 [ "4] 692 1 a a o ^11 3^ ■I >>(5 111 §* i 0-8 oo t. 6 .2 "-=» :|i|i«S(S' ^•V^O V^/v/ V.w/Vrf'^ r^A^ rxA^ I I I I • • ) I I I I I I I I I I I I *& a ,H ^^1 IH :mw>5}5»R25 .« H M M ^e;^ s^^fcaa^'.^aww wwSoQ &HWW wwww^ IC -s lo^ t»o>-"Ooac ir»r»r~t» ii*t»oct» |^•^»t~c>■t^^•^-^»^•l~^■^•^~•^• {"•{"•tot- 0JO(»^• ?0i-iOi-H w«io*eo^'*'oot-o> «weo« .eo^eocj .•*'*-<^^ ,t«''«s<'J<'V"*^'<'*i»'COw ^: o§S! 0>O)O)O> 0)0)0)0 0)0>0>0) 0)0)0)0)0>0)0)0)0)0)0>0)9A ©»NC*« 04949494 9<94949< 949»9494949*94e49«9494e«C«el lllllillllllilllillllllliil -*1 -«« o>94«©doje»«o 3oje4«o 3os94«-- 3oie4«o3a»o»»5 i X e* 94 ■S 00 g, 693 C "4] 8 s 'J3 * 8 s 5 o ^ b«^ V^-y^-i V.«^(X/ I 11 .B i' C H) <" ■ J I « ^ ^ § . O .4^00 COOWfc o o _j c g _e ^ <2 (2 « o s§ « (» z !► > oo a S a ■• si « O O a .8 J Q a v-ofx; Ti: ■V" L^v^; CO o d d o © o I I (-^A^^ r»*^ ^;www pqWHW . ka SSS^S5?r:*?= i:?i^f2?:??i?S? ^ 00 CO ^ _ o •« o d d d d f»**% 2 S « I I I I I I I I o I I I I I I I I I I .-V- rv^•^ . . . . UU UHH faNHNoQCTv noQOQ 00 00 03? '©t>-t»t-«r0(ot-ce o(ot~no>-<^coc4 oe*coto in«^ e» e< e4 »< fri a»0)OkO> ©©0)a>9kO>OkO)a> e^^rtrno — — — r< ,««eoeo OiOiO>OiOkOi9>OiOi © O) 0> Ck •* Th Tl< !* OV 9k O) 0> c«ee)e*e*e< e*04et«4 e4e«» et m -§ -*t Ae«coo^0>^^o^a)e*oe«moS©e«e<9o> sc7>(MC90> ^ ^00 -H >~ oQ r-* ^00 FN -<