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Tous les autres exemplairas originaux sont film*s en commenpant par la prami*re page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration at en terminant par la derni*rs page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur la derni*re image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols — ^ signifie "A SUIVRE". le symbols V signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc.. peuvent *tre film*8 * des taux de r*duction diff*rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atrn'i reproduit en un soul clich*. il est film* * part^ - i;vir.iivi;«'.-%.': Entered aceonling to tbe Act of Congress, in lEe year 1848, hy EujAH White, in the Clerk's office of the Distriet Cewf of tht Korthem District <^New Tork^ A- "^ "*ii^. INTRODUCTION. Some admirers of solid reading say, vrith regretful sighs, and doleful faces, that the day of stable, instructing litera- ture is superseded by that of trashy novels, romances, etc., tending to corrupt the mind and principles. Formerly, the tables of even the fashionable were strown with volumes de- igned not only to amuse, but to elevate, edify, and contrib- ute to the truly intellectual enjoyment of their readers instead of those fostering vitiated tastes and sullying youthful minds, w:th which they insist our shelves are now cumbered. They mourn over the degeneracy in this of our otherwise " age of improvement," and not rightly judging the true cause, al- most wish, from the evils which have arisen from this, that the noble art of printing had remained undiscovered. But, dear friends, do not shake your head in such grave disapproval of the above apparently ironical paragraph. In part, I do agree with you. There does seem to have been a sad falling off from the pure healthful taste of former days, when a volume of true poetry, or a treatise on a sensible subject coidd be read with real zest and enjoyment. It is too true, that many works are now forced upon us detailing scenes too highly wrought, exciting and dissipating to the mind, and presenting pictures tending to nourish a depraved moral hunger. In their places we should have productions divested of frivolous imaginings, wild speculations, and false sentimentalism ; and I can not believe that our tastes are so vitiated that such we could not appreciate and duly value* There are real scenes of sorrow and pleasure even in this 9- ▼I IHTKODUOTIOV. common-place, plodding world of ours, which, if properly pictured, would uusorb and interest without timing the mind into an enervating or immoral channel. However, I do not carry condemnation of fiction to the extreme that I would banish it altogether. Certain European novelists may write a pure sentiment. Arthur — who would condemn his truthful, home-like tales to the shade ! Our noble Mrs. Ste- vens, enchanting us of a summer evening with her rich, in- tructing stories of olden times. Miss Sedgwick, Miss Omc, Miss Pickering, Miss Gove, and last of the many in our men- tal view, sweet, gentle, piquant, Fanny Forester, touchingly pleading our forbearance " with a smile on her cheek and a tear in her een." Well, lady novel reader, I fancy I see a smile again. I feared I had gained your displeasure ; for, till the last sen- tence or two, I imagined a look of dudgeon stole over you face. I will endeavor to cater for the taste of all, as far as consistency will allow me. To the first class of readers I will just say, that within these lids they will find nought contained but truth ; to the second, that, although all true, some of the incidents are sufficiently thrilling to please, I trust, even after perusing the effusions of James, Cooper, or Lippard, that prince of thrilling story tellers, and with this they must rest content. The narrative, such as it is, is ex- tracted, and compiled from various notes and other informa- tion obtained from Mrs. White, and Dr. White's Government Reports, and sundry documents kindly favored me, carrying them through a variety of scenes ; interesting and extensive travels by land and water, and a residence of many years in the wilds of Oregon. yi^iitt/. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Circamstances wliich Buggestcd to Dr. White the projsct of going to Oregon — Emotions of Mra. White — Announcing to the Board of Missions their willingness to go — Appointment received — Coinci- dence — Reception at New Yorii and Boston — Embarkation — Frienda accompany them a few rnilis out — Parting — Number and descrip- tion of the mission party — Children 17 CHAPTER H. First dinner on board — Effect of a change of diet — ^Water ; its scar ■ city — Swearing — Flying fish — Shark — Mother Corey's cluckcni:— Employment — Reaching the equator — Neptune — Amusing scene — Storm— Plate of ham 95 CHAPTER HI. Falkland Isles — Seals, etc.— Albatross — Cape Hor.n— Atmosphere- Man overboard — Miss Johnson's Efforts for his conversion — Juan Fernandes — Burial of the cook — Whales — Loss of the ship Ea- ' sex 34 CHAPTER IV. Black Fish — Dance of the Porpoises — See Land — Heights of .'/yhce — Venerable Pilot — His after kindness — Ladies left alone — Return of the Gentlemen — Cargo of Bananas, &.c. — Visitors — Landing — Settle for the Winter — Dress of the Natives — Numbers and occupation — Females' attempt at Imitation — Funeral ceremonies of the Princesfs — J.>»«!&i_ j^rsT ■ .TC- ..itt COKTBNTS. Proceasion — Cahelas— Visit to Toaii — Craters and Battle Field — Tamaahaah — Half-Caste School— Mrs. White's School — Young Prince — Character of the Children — ^Nurse Kakeria — ^Her love for Silas— Valuable Presents 42 CHAPTER V. Spring and preparations to leave the Sandwich Islands — ^Benefit to them of their residence there — Engage passage on board ship— Food vnd water — Windy and boisterous — Great loss — Contents of the boxes sent on board by Pilot Reynolds ; his wife — Interesting young man ; his marriage with a native woman — Mr. Grimes — Suc- cession of Storms — Endeavor ';o cross the Bar of the Columbia — Desperation of the Captain — Crossing — Lulling of the Winds — Ba- ker's Bay — Rest— View — Varieties of Trees ; their enormous sixe — King ChenamuB and his Consort ; his Intoxication ; their Dress — Aground three times — ^Visitor — Invitation to the Shore — First Canoe ride — Arrival at Astoria — Residence of Mr. Bimey — Beds for the Night 49 CHAPTER VI. Size of Astoria — The Diana still aground — Preparations to go to Fort Vonconver — One eyed Pilot George — Remonstrances of Friends — Mrs. White's Resolution — Leaving Astoria — Singing of the Crew — Beauty of the Shores — Reflections — Seeking for a place to Camp-> Startling Incident— Camping — Tale of the "Petrified 'Sister.".. . 62 CHAPTER VII. Indian Village — Kindness of an Indian Woman — New kind of Um- brella — Accident — Meeting with Dr. Talmie — Kilting an Eagle — Arrival at the Fort — Garden and Plantation — Arrival of the Diana — Mr. Jason Lee — Raillery of Miss Pitman — Mr. Lee's Introduction — Leaving the Fort— Captain Hinckley's offioiousness— rLaughaUe ar- rangement — ^Boat races — Conclusion respecting Mr. Lee — Putting in for the night — Supper and walk— Pond — ^Pleasant sail — Willa- mette Falls— A tradition— Bargain— Portage— Elk Blufi*— Pudding River— Arrival at Battens de porte McKoys — ^Letter— ^Departure for j^ OONTIXTS. the MiMion — ^Delightfal journey — Arrival at their deotination — MiM Domiing and Mr. Shepherd— His appearance— Two thousand two hundred miles journey ended — First dinner 63 CHAPTER VIII. Mr. Daniel Lee — Stroll in the garden— Its beauty — ^Accommodations — Mission children — Names — Sufferings of the chie^Improvements Miss Pitman and Mr. Lee— The two marriages 73 CHAPTER IX. Occupations — ^Harvesting — Mr. Lee's ezpertness— Temperance meet- ings — Ewing Young and his distillery — Customs of the Hudson's Bay Company— Action of Gov. McLaughlin 77 CHAPTER X. Endeavors to reach home fiom Fort Vancouver by a new route— Be- wilderment in the woods — Fears — Unsatisfactory interview — Hun- ger and weariness of the pony — Despondency — Hunger and fatigue — Hallooing for succor — Seeking a place to rest — Ascent into a tree — ^Passing several hours in the saddle — Bed on the ground — Fears of wild animals — ^Wolf story — ^Morning — Departure — Steep hill- Suspicions — Sudden resolution — ^Reach the Willamette — Despond- ency — ^Paddles — Mrs. Bilake— Hunger and disappointment — Duck^ Odd reply — f A watched pot never boils" — Arrival at Mrs. B's resi- dence-Home 80 CHAPTER XI. Ladies' employments — Hard Fare — Mr. Leslie's arriviJ, and also Mr. Perkins's — Close quarters— New house — Hearth— Wolves— Doctor White treed— Mrs. White's weapon— Cowardice of the animals— The two species, of wolveth— Anecdotes— Antelope hunt or "cir- cling" — Swarming — Marriage of Miss Johnson and Mr. Perkins- Winter rains — Missionary meeting— Political convention— Mr. Lee's return to the United States — Reasons — Missionary efforts at the Dalles— Revival at the mission— Startling report— Death of Mrs. -i«*C^>firv t 00NTBNT8. Lee and her babe— Drawing of George — itia former escnpe from death on the Seneca Lake — Rlrs. Whitman's little girl drowned — Coincidence 87 CHAPTER XII. A call from the Dalles— Mrs. White, Mr. Leslie, and Dr. Bailey set ont for that station-Retnrn to the CoBi;ad>s— Salmon parly— Visit among the natives — The oged turned cfT to die — Portage — Visit to an Indi- an burial place — Dead houses — War club — Re-embark — Swift Cur- rent— Co '•versation — Disaster — Struggles for breath — Mr. Leslie's statement— Canoes — Conducted to the shore — The lifeless babe- Arrival at th: Fort — Reach the falls of the Willamette — Strangers — Unhappy night — Reach home — Letters 95 , CHAPTER XIII. Illnesiof Mr. Shepherd — Surgical operation — lingular impressions of Mrs. White — His death — Benevolent society — Visit to Xavier's — A Mother's anguish — Burying alive — The drowned boy — Outline of Dr. Bailey's history — ^John Turner — A hermitage — Turner's bra- Tery— Hiii seclusion lOft CHAPTER XIV. Daniel Lee's adventure — ^Visit from Mr. and Mrs. Beaver — English domestic— Visit from Dr. Whitman and Uov'nor and Mrs. McLaugh- lin-— Mode of travelling'^Mr. Hall and Ladv — Party of the Hudson's Bay Company — Intermarriage with the natives — Origin of the cus- tom — Extract from Astoria — Return of Mrs. Lee — News — Effect — Oregon Institute — Agriculture — Mr. Lee's course on his first arrival in the country — Results — Exploring tour to the Umpqua country — Willamette Valley— ^Umpqua mountains — DifHcult assent— A plan- tation—Polite reception— Return-Meeting with an Indian party- Narrative of the Chief. : 116 CHAPTER XV. Difficulty with Mr. Lee — Extract from a report of the board of mis- sions — Embarcation — ^Delightful voyage to the Islands— Danger >.-#'^5 ooiimrM. XI ■^Mra. W 'a concern — ^The pilot again — ^Visitora — ^Exploring tqaad- ron — Pic-nic — Embark for the United States — Panengerf — Mr. Dieil's death—Social parties— Hailing a veasel^Aarrival in port^ Bennett's express 131 CHAPTER XVI. Trip to New York — Call on Mr. Fry — His singular behavior— Tntro- ductiona — Journey to Washington — Re -eption — Appointment to the Sub-Agency — Death — Lizetle — Starting for Oregon — Company — Reach Havana — Separation — Sad thoughts — An old friend — Arri- val at Geneva — Curiosity excited by the Indian boys — Reach Buf- falo—Milan — Travel via. Columbus to St. Louin— Reception— Wil- liam Sublet— Kind reception at Independence — Anxutiea— Meeting of the emigration— Resolutions 138 CHAPTER XVII. Df.parture — ^Emotions — A friend — Manner of camping — Order of the morning — Dog slaughter — Sickness of a child — Detained two days —Difficulty in crossing '^>aw river— Increasing illness of the child— lis death — The mother becomes ill — Mr. and Mrs. L. obliged to re- tarn — Undulating country — Big Blue — Divide— Rainy night— Buf- falo — Platte river and plain — Fuel — South fork of the Platte — Chim- ney and castle — Singular scenery — Arrival at Fort Laramy — Coat of flour, etc. — Bridger and company — Alarming incident 147 CHAPTER XVIII. Buflalo Hunting — Mother Bennett — Tobacco scrape — Sweetwaer Valley — Indian Village — Prepara'ions for defence — Happy disap- pointment — Snow — Great Divide — Fitz Patrick's announcement- View — ^Two streams — Little Sandy — Separation — Reach Green river — The valley — Visit from a grisley b«iar — Animating chase— Another st*paratitWiilamelte valley — Got. McLaugh- liu--~FalBe reports— ^Schools-^Mission claim-^Mr. Lee— ■'Instructions to immigrants— Oregon Institnte-xLetters 213 CHAPTER XXI. Manu&cture of liquors-— Breaking up a distillery— Conduct of Cock- etoch, an Indian— Affray — Killing of Cockstock — 'Deaths from poi* soned arrows — Interview with the Indians — ^Previous! frightful affair with Cockstock— Alarming visit of fift^'en Indians — >Cold Blooded murder— Presents to Cockstock's widow — ^Protection required — Let« ter from Mr. Hines — Meeting of the legislative body — ^Resolution — Unhappy affray — Conduct in courts — Resources of the country— Soil of Oregon— Arrival of Rev. Mr. Desmitt, nuns and priests — Port-* Exports— Imports— Tour — Schools — Quiet among the Indiana- Note from Mr. Littlejohn— Fidelity of the Indians— Reasons for pre- venting the sale of liquor— Enactment of the legislative committee of Oregon— An act to provide ways and means 238 CHAPTER XXn. General health, etc.— Winter rains— >State of affairs between the whites and Indians— Chief of the Fallatine plains-^Aggresrion by the Indi- ans^Military assistance called for— ^Communication of the chief- Unhandsome and unjust behavior of the Califomiana—Mnrder of Eli- jah Hedding-«Elli8 sent to the whites— Salutary language and inter- view—Happy visit with Ellis— •Intended revenge of the aggressed party — ^Invitation to the chiefr— Difficulty at fort Vancouver— > Suspension of hostilities— The agents weariness of the unhappy state of affairs— Dissatisfaction W':h the government— An unpleas- ant aflbir settled— The colony— Methodist institute— Circulating mediuri ne>jded— Agent's unpleasant position— Number of Indians- Letter from Mr. McLaughlin and Douglas— 'Answer from Russell and Sti^wart'-^Letter firom Mr. Burnett— New wagon route— Report of the sub-agent's interpreter— Mr. Lee relative to the Nez Percet— Letter from Mr. Lovejoy to the secretary of war— A resolutioo-M N«te to Hon. W. MediU 939 XIT 00NTKMT8, CHAPTER XXIII. Thrilling story — A slave slain and buried with his master — Strange custom — Inducements to the doctor to take the journey home— En- deavors to discover a new route through (he Cascade mountains- Scaling a mountain — Vegetation — Snows — Fine view — Masses of rocks — Mt. Hood — Disheartened — Return to (he base of the moun- tain — Molalah Indians — Disappointment — Wheat — P^trifud ash — Advantages for settling — Deer and elk — Wild cat — New determina- tion — Fine country — Mounds — Mt. Spencer — Ascent laborious- Shrubs — Incident — Stupendous view — Descent 259 CHAPTER XXIV. Indian encampment — ^Prairies and band of Indians — Stream — Separa- tion — Spur of the mountains — Horses left — Indian village — Singular destitution — Embarking on the river — Startling accident — Swift ti'aveillng — Sterile tract — Tide water — Encamp — Indian village — Craw fish — Singular piece of meat — Indian explanation — The ocean — Strip of land — Boy — Brown's claim — Railroad advantages — Indi- an toil-^Good fire — In sight of friends — Breakfast — A start — A pres- ent — ^Wolves — Beautiful country — Arrival at the colony — Petition — Start again for the states — Party separate — Meeting at the Dalles — Indian encampment — Wedding here to-day — Bride and bridegroom — Dresses — Whimsical story— Disappointment in obtaining the bride's beautiful dress — Murderous affair — Interesting account — Deserter — Another threatened-*— John Day river— Saucy Indians — Wallawallas — A halt — Visitors and presents — Agriculture and its effects — Hot Spring — Alarm — Keyuses and Nez Perces — Alarming report — Guard — Emigration — Letters — St. Joseph's company — Mr. Fisher's eager- ness for news — A meal — Odd reason for lagging behind — Chance for carrying a letter — Roguish girls — Fort Hall — Runaway horse.... 270 CHAPTER XXV. Showen — Soda Springs — Dr. Burke-^PIeasant interview— Ore«n river — Great change — New route — Sterile and forbidding coontry— Som- mit level— Uncomfortable night — Contrast— Divide— '* Home, tweet CONTENTS. Vf home" — A trail — Sabbath travelling— Weather — Dreary pass — Ani- mals — Bear — Swr etwater valley— Independence rock — Solitary walk —Halt— Ravine — Snow — Red blaflf- Camp on the Platte — BufTalo — Needless fcar^ — Humbug — Three grizzly bears — Signs of Indians — Nondescript — Indian and family — Signs of danger — Herd of hor- ses— Attempt to escape observation — Failure — An old mnn — Kind reception — Handsome offer — An American — Feasting — Smoking — Reasonable request— Encampmeni — Two Frenchmen — Good meal — Warm spiiiig — Fort Laranny — Mr. Tappan — Fligibilily for a mil- itary post 236 CHAPTER XXVI. Chapman's return for the minute book — Hard time — A move — Return — White men — The Platte — Art nature — Platte crane — Polecat — Ash creek— Thompson— -A present — Wolves — Kill a buffalo — A robbery — Woodless platte, valley, etc. — Bread — History of a lump of sugar — Singular circumstance — Sabbaih nforning — Weather — Buf- f.ilo — Birds — Antelope, etc, — Length of thf; buffalo district — Large herd — Express — Warning o( danger — A sign of danger — Pawnees — Unpleasant interruption — Pack-horse frightened — Troublesome Indian — Departure — Firing — Another interruption — Number of Indi- ans — Madness of attempting to contend — Brown and Snxton — Coat taken — A blow — Hard usage— A protector — A ride on horse-back— Saxton^Little demons — \ council — Delicate feast — Council morv moderate — Another confiscation — ^"Bad people behind" — Not to be gulled — Saxton's visitor — Package of manuscripts — Preparation to start — Kind old squaw — Gratitude — Unpleasant surprise — Advanta- geous trade pioposed — Kind interference — Forced trade — Final con- clusion — Dr. Satterly 297 CHAPTER XXVII. Departure — Prairie on fire — Strong wind — Raw com — Thirst — Dreams — Pool — Indians — Ruse — Living on raw corn — Big Blue — Grove — Wild turkey — L'lCKy shot — Postponement of a feast — Sabbath — Bad night — Indian and family flour — Nice bread — Fi-ozen squashes — Residence of Mr. Fish — Beautiful country — Westport — Mr. Brown — Independence— Divine worship — ^Visit to the miesion...; 308 "*,''' XVI OONTENTS. CHAPTER XXVIII. Oatline of journey to Washington— Gracious reception-^Thonghts o hmne— Meeting with friends in New York city— Reach Ithaca- Arrival home— Letter to the editor of a western papers— Decrease of the Indian population in Oregon— Timbers of Oregon — ^Fossil*— Animals— Birds — Soil— Legislators of Oregon— Anecdote— Wrong of the government in not extending jurisdiction over Oregon— Treat* ment of public officers— Treatment of Dr. White 314 4-^ Thoughts o ch Ithaca— -Decreaw of 1— FoaaiU — ote — ^Wrong gon— Treat- 314 TEN YEARS IN OREGON. CHAPTER I. CircamstanceB which suggested to Dr. White the project of going to Oregon — Emotions of Mrs. White — Announcing to the Board of Miesions their willingness ta go — Appointment received — Coinci- dence — ^Reception at New York and Boston — Embarkation — Friends accompany them a few miles out — Parting — Number and deserip- tion of the mission party — Children. During the intense frost that prevailed in the midst of the great conflagration of '36 at New York, Dr. White came in from a professional ride, and sliivering with cold, seated himself by the fire; and while warming hia be- numbed fingers, took up the Christian Advocate for a few moments' perusal, and, glancing over its contents, sud- denly, in his usual jocular manner, observed to Mrs. W., that there was a call for them from Oregon; that the board of missions advertised for a clergyman, physician, &c. &c., and as he could act in the capacity of pill-pedler, he thought it might be well to respond thereto. She did not immediately answer ; and looking up, he was surprised to find her weeping. Tliis seemed to him singular, as her disposition was so unusually cheerful, and it was so seldom that there was a trace of tears to be found upon her cheek, especially, as he thought, for so trivial a cause. In some confusion and mortification, he begged her not to allow his 16 TEX TEARS IK OREGON. nonsense to cause her uneasiness ; assuring her, he wad but jesting. Still she wept in silence, till, after a pause of seve- ral moments, she struggled for composure, seated herself by his side, extended her hand for the paper, and twice looking over the notice, she related to him the sensations with which she had ever traced the map of the Columbia river.* She farther remarked, that if he could so arrange his affairs as to render it consistent for him to go to Oregon, she would place no obstacle in his way, and with her moth- er's consent would willingly accompany liim. This was so unlike her usually matter-of-fact language, and seemed, in- deed, so visionary, that he was iistoundcd, and in his turn., speechless. Becoming composed, they calmly discussed tbc matter, and eventually decided that prudence demanded tbeir remainmg at home, maugre childish impressions. They confess, that, whenever they afterwards thought of this incident, it always provokea a smile, although it never failed to interest, serving forcibly to illustrate from what casualties sometimes spring strange and momentous results ; as, till this moment, they had no more thought of engaging m such an enterpiisc, than of a trip to the ntoon. * Mrs. White relates, that frem childhood, while pursuing the study ol Geography, the Columbia river, and its adjoining country, had always created in her mind a deep and absorbing interest. Not that she had any reasonable expectation of ever visiting it, but fur hours she would elt, wrapped in contemplation, her feelings and attentior. drawn towardr that region of the world, in an inconceivably strong and singular man- ner. It may seem a superstition, but, in after years, this was explain- ed by a circumstance which will ever causi her he.irt to throb with peculiar emotion. [Reference is here had to her own narrow escape, and the drowninf of her little son, in ihc Columbia river, 8ee chapter IS.] ffc.. TEN TKAR8 IN ORXOOK. 10 up to this period, the board of missions of the Methodist Episcopal Church, had never employed a physician in any foreign field. But this was emphatically a time of singular adventure, and the spirit of enterprise had seized upon aO ranks and departments of business. Nor, in their bener- olent operations, did the Christian churches stand still, in the busy round. Various were the calls from heathen climes, and ready were the responses. Africa, China, Bur- ma, India, and the Isles of the South Sea, were not the only quarters from which had arisen the macedon cry. Hm calls from the Pacific had been heard, and the gladdeniqg results of labors in the Sandwich groups and Society Isles, urged on to farther and more glorious conquests. Last, but not least, came the cry from Oregon's dark mountains and savage plains. The thrill of the appeal of the Flat- head delegation was electric, and fired the churches with a spirit of noble emulation. The Lees, Parker, Whitman; and Spaulding, were the first to respond. A fortnight passed on ; not without some reflection ob the subject, and the Advocate announced that the required compliment had been completed, physician < xccpted. After more mature deliberation, Dr. W. addressed the secretary of the board, stating tliat if no more satisfactory offers jren made, he was at their service. Ten dAyt, later, a letter arrived from Dr. Bangs, containing his appointment, and requesting him to be in readiness to sail in a few weeks from Boston, via. Sandwich Islands, to Oregon. Mrs, W, still retained her determination to accompany her husband, though, till she saw the appointment and its publication, she scarce realized a possibility of a necessity of her ddng so. The thought that they were now to leave, probablj for ever, thdr dear home and dearer friends, was a sad one, Vii m TKK TKAR8 IN ORBOOH. and she shed tears of regret, though not of reluctance, to go. She pictured to herself her mother's anguish, at what ■iVBt he very like consigning her only daughter to the grave. The anticipated separation from that mother who had nursed ber so tenderly, and loved her with the tireless, changeless affection which the maternal heart only knows, filled hw with sorrow. However, hy a fortunate coincidence, they were spared the painful scene they had feared, and obtained hH* consent with little difficulty. When they visited her fcM* tlMit purpose, she had just been reading, for the first time, Hm IHe oi Mrs. Judson ; and the example of this excellent lady had so interested her, that, when their project was laid bofore her, she listened with comparative calmness ; and, Ihottgh somewhat astonished, was willing they should go where duty led them. This, in s(Hne measure, relieved Mrs. White ; and, with a lightened heart, and more c(Hnpo- a what of a hoyden, as young girls will occasionally bo. She was very fond of Benny, and they enjoyed extremely well the sports of Mr. Wilson with the kid ; and the vessel often rang with their noisy shouts of merriment, as they frolicked together. Benny was a child with piercing, laughing black eyes ; in short, a pretty babe, and afterwards a fine boy. There was his little sister, Eleanor, who was a great talker, like many of her sex, affording the elder one much amuse- ment by her lisping prattle. Children, so far from contrib- uting to the enjoyment of people generally, are often con- sidered annoyances; yet the artless chatter and playful pranks of these, greatly dispelled the gloom and ennui which would sometimes steal over the ship. TIM TKAM IK ORrOON. S6 CHAPTER II. Firat dinner on board. Effect oi change of diet — ^Water ; its scar- city — Swearing — Flying fiah — Shark — Mother Carey's Cliicken»— Employment — Reaching the Equator — Neptune — Amusing sccn^- Btorm — Plate of Ham. Thb departure of their friends left the missionaries' feel- ings so harrowed, that they had little appetite for their din- ner. However, when called, they descended to the cabin, and the tabic and its appurtenances were before them. — The table was about twenty feet in length, fastened to the deck, and the benches likewise ; other seats they then saw none. They seated themselves, and the viands were served. A turreen of bean soup, in the first instance sufficiently weak, but again diluted, so that its richness could in no wise injure the digestion, was placed before them. This was dis- posed of, as well as possible, hope suggesting that something more palatable would next present itself. Next came some hard sea biscuit, and a large, uncouth piece of half-boiled beef, at which they gazed with rueful faces, scarce daring to hope for sufficient strength of jaw for its mastication, and involuntarily wishing for more of the before despised bean soup. Dr. White's little son was but thirteen months old; and with what management they were to keep him alive, on such food, was beyond his parents' comprehension. How- ever, they submitted with the best grace they could, think- ing that the dessert might be more acceptable. But they had no sooner eaten what they thought proper of this deli- 26 TEN TEARS IN OREGON. %i* cacy, than the captain deliberately arose, and the meal was ended, minus dessert. But this wiis an unfair example of their general living, as the ship was now in the confusion of getting under Avay ; it was subsequently, however, a grade higher. But the great change from milk and light food, to the crude materials more suitable for adults, engaged in manual labor, soon produced, in Silas, unfavorable symptoms, which terminated in an inQammation of the stomach, and the poor little fellow suffered incredibly. Of vegetables, they had ten biishcls, severally, of mingled potatoes, onions, beans, and beats ; but the potatoes had been gathered in July, and were consequently withered and shrivelled, till both taste and sus- tenance were nearly gone. Want of good water was another great annoyance. That which was on board was drawn from a filthy pool, near Bos- ton, both officers and sailors declaring it better than if taken from springs, as it would work itself clear from all impurities. The passengers presumed to indulge the suspicion that the indolence of the hands might have furnished the true reason. It was contained in old csisks, which had been unfit for use, but for another equally satisfactory excuse, namely, that green wood emitted deleterious properties, and consequently, the older the vessel the better the contents. At any rate, both these causes, however good, failed to accomplish the de- sired object ; as, to be near a cask, while it was being opened, was very sickening, for a more fceted, repulsive scent, was never smelled. Frequently, after rendering the water as pleasant and palatable as possible, and presenting it to the sick boy, he would refuse it, with a moat unqualified expres- ftion of disgust on his little face. Even of this, they had not sufficient for the whole voyage ; and as they passed under 'S,J .^y TEN TKAR8 IM OREGON. 21 the equator, during the frequent stoims, they stopped the scuppers with swabs, and thus obtained fresh supplies. Of this they had many good cups of tea and coffee, though still not as pure as they could wish, as it was the tarry drenchings of the rigging and sailors' clothes, and washings of the deck ; but it was more endurable than the water from the casks. Had it not been for these providential showers, they must have been put on allowance ; as it was, during the whole voyage, they had not an article washed, larger than a socket handkerchief, or a dress for the little ones. It was very unpleasant and inconvenient; and they often thought of those on shore, who would liave considered it a hardship if they could not have had their raiment cleansed once a week. Being unacquainted with all the preparations necessary, Mrs. W. h:id furnished herself with only a few changes for Silas, and he suffered much in consequence. When they arrived at the Sandwich Islands, she became much indebted to the kindness of the missionary ladies, who presented her with ap^.:'rel more than sufTicient for the voyage to the Co- lumbia, it being little more than one-fifth tlie length of the first. Having heard much of the profanity of sailors, they were surprised at never hearing a single Oath escape their lips, save once, on an occasion of extreme danger, being neaily run into by another ship, and were persuaded that such reports wore mere exaggerations. However this may be, it is probable the presence of the missionaries had a re- straining effect upon the hardy tars. The reports respecting the flying fish, our friends had almost regarded as fabulous, ranking with stories of mer- maids ; but they were now convinced of their truthfulness. 4.*.*«-'*w-;'- .'.ViM»w€ captain, and modestly enquired, "Capt. Barker, is there danger?" With a .shrug of impatience he replied, "Danger, danger — no!" with a significant motion, which the interrog- ator int^^rpreted as a wish for him to go ; for he immediately went below, imd began diligently studying the sacred prom- ises. The ladies stealthily repaired to the cabin, and no on« was left on dock save a few courageous spirits, who delighted to witness the conflict between old ocean and the storm. The hatchways were closed, and orders given for reefing the sails. With an apprehen.sive glance at the already block 32 TEN TBARB IN OREGON. horizon, the men sprang aloft, and one after another of the clouds of canvass disappeared from the masts, and, with a single exception, they were scudding under bare poles. Even this one sail seemed almost too much for the vessel to bear, for the stick bent like a whip, and creaked and groaned under the pressure. The tempest burst upon them. The ship, like a living thing, crouched, shivering, in a trough of the sea ; and then, on a rising wave, bounded forward, like a maddened steed, striving to rid itself opits tormentors. On she plunged, but the storm was around her ; she was wrap- ped as with toils. The heavy waves dashed against her oaken sides ; spray and foam enveloped her as a thick cloud, and the winds croaked and moaned through the rigging with sounds which absolutely resembled howls of rage. The lightnings coiled and darted from time to time through the angry skies ; and the thunder roared and muttered threat- eningly in the distance. To render the already frightful scene more dismal, torrents of rain began pouring from the murky clouds, and night to envelope them in its dark folds. With the little ones nestling to their bosoms, and looking wistfully to them for protection, the females cowered trem- blingly in the cabin. Even the stout hearts of their male companions sometimes quaked,as they listened to the crashing of timber broken loose from its fastenings on deck, the haul- ing of ropes, the quick tread of the men, and the rattling of furniture and crockery as the ship rolled from side to side. It was a night of terror. The latter part the winds wailed loud and wild, the firmament was sheeted with lightning, and the thunder rolled, it seemed, in one continued deafen- ing peal. The white wing of the lonely gull occasionally flitted across their vision, as if to show them, that, amid a storm where they, poor mortals, were tossed, helpless, at the ■?g tliie dead. It/traaa verjr solemn and impressive scene. TlS§imatei His rtiyS jhirtsiy ftnd brightly upon the uncov- er Ii;ead(«6f «le ^*!Frf*«tthbly. The^ilors were i^ged otfrM^ sid6, Uttrtly dad in theif SaWbath attire, their eyes i P?fy, TE^I y&ARS IN QHEOON. 9t note A was far ene. dov- iged eyes I at(eutivcly fixed on their captun as hfi read the burial ser- vice; and the missionarios were grouped togetlier on the other, also reverently listening. The dead man, sewn up m his hammock, with cannon balls attached to his ieet, WM stretched upon a long board, one end of which reflbed upon the taffrail, and the other was elevated on a stwidhion. The service of the dead was read with suioh soleBMuty^ to the words " we therefore commit his body to the deep," when three or four men applied their should^s to the plank, an4 launched the corpse of their brother to its bust resting plaae* till " the sea shall give up its dead." * • They saw several species cd whale wlule in the south Afr^ lantic and Pacific. One day, about 118° west longitudei one not less than ninety feet in length was playing acouad the vessel, when one of the oflioers proposed trying mn ex- periment, and accordingly, much against Ike will of the passengers, lest something serious m^ht happeo, the eett- tents of a gun w ere fired into him. For a momenl he did not Eotiuc the salute, and continued his unwieldy gamb€la« apparently uninjured, when he started conrulsively, M though suddenly shocked, and, after an instant's pause, sped away with such rapidity, that he was soon lost to the s^bi. Upon this, as was his custom on all suitable ooeaMons, lb, Wilson embraced the opportunity of spinning a yam whiob deeply interested his auditors. It was in relation to the lose of the ship Essex, which took place somewhere in ^is yi- cinity. He had sailed one voyage wider the orders ol Csupt Pollard, its commander, and had oltea listened to the tiJie from his own lips. They were one day on the look out for sperms, and had struck two, wfaidi the boats were foUow- uig to secure. While they were thus engaged, a young little I- ,*H TEN YSARS IN OEEGOK. 41 water, we again ventured out on the wide ocean. In the course of a few days our provision was consumed. Two men died. We had no alternative but to live upon their remains. These we roasted to dryness by means of fires kindled on the ballast-»»n4 at l^e bottom of the boats. When this supply was s|)ent, what could we do ? We look- ed at e^ch other with horrid tljioughts in our minds, but we held our x ingues. I aaaa sure we loved each other ^ brothers dll the tinqie ; q.94 yek qw: looks pUtinly Itold what must he done. We cast lots, and the fatal one fell on my poor ciU)in fooy. I started forward instantly and cried out, " my lad, my lad, if you don*t like your lot, 1*11 ghoot the first man who touches you." The poor emaciated boy hesitated for a moment or two, then quietly laying his head upon the gunwale of the boat, he said, " I like it as well as any other." He was soon despatched, and nothing of him left. I think that an- other man died of himself, ^nd hjm too we ate. B^t I can tell you no more. My head is on fire at the recollection. I forgot to say that we parted comply with the second boat before now. After some more days of horror and despair, when some were lying down at the bottom of the boat, not able to rise, and scarcely one of us could move a limb, a ves- sel hove in sight! We were taken on board, and treated with extreme kindness. The second boat lost was also pick- ed up at sea, and the survivors saved. A ship afterwards sailed in search of o\ir coi9p»nions on the desolate island, «nd brought them away." *^ ittle -^5^' .m /i^;^ ■'-•!'■,■ -«v- m 42 TEN TEARS IN OREGON. CHAPTER IV. Black Fish — Dance of the Porpoises — See Land — ^Heights of Owyhee — Venerable Pilot — His after kindness — ^Ladies left alone — ^Return of the Gentlemen — Cargo of Bananas, &c — ^Visitors — Landing — Settle for the Winter — Dress of the Natives — Numbers and occupations — Females' attempt at Imitation — Funeral ceremonies of the Princess — Procession— Cahelas — ^Visit to Yooii — Craters and Battle Field — -Tomaahaah — Half-Caste School— Mrs. White's School — Young Prince — Character of the Children — Nurse Kakeiia — Her love for Silas — ^Valuable Presents. P ^ When in about 40* south latitude, our voyagers witnessed a singular scene. For two or three hours they had been followed by hundreds of black fish, and were loitering about the deck, when suddenly, in all dirrjctions around them, the sea seemed to be literally alive with what they discovered to be porpoises. They were leaping about, apparently in high glee, shining and flashing in the rays of the sun, in- creasing in numbers, until, as far as the eye could scan, were seen the dancing, glittering muUitude. It was a novel sight, so entirely differing from any tiling they had seen in their voyage, they were enchanted. They were now nearing the Sandwich Islands, and for a day or two before descrying land, the crew, as well as pas- sengers, were all anxiety and expectation. They had be- come thoroughly wearied with their long confinement ; were getting short of food, having been long since out of vegeta- bles, for want of which one of the company had been at- tacked with that dreadful disease, the scurvy. As the ship ^i^dHilkm a«j>>j:.it..^atf.«tf-.j^.-^.it - ?^j>iku3lttnc.i :;Mmm*^ ". M *^^ ,*^.VV''ry^i^' :?r- TEN TEARS IK OREGON. 43 I liad been victualed for the ^vhole passage, none had set foot on land since the day of their leaving Boston. The reader may conceive their delight at the prospect of again landing on terra firma, as they had been out one hundred and forty- eight days. About three o'clock one afternoon, they came in sight of the heights of Owyhee, apparently large masses of blacken- ed rocks, the remains of volcanic eruptions. The signal for a pilot was promptly answered, and they had the happiness of seeing one putting out to them "T^ith all speed. He was about seventy years of age, clad in a linen jacket and trousers, and his hair vying with his clothes in whiteness, although he was otherwise of youthful appear- ance. He was a wealthy merchant from Boston, a man of considerable intelligence in many respects, agreeable man- ners, and with Dr. White and his lady was soon on excellent terms. He was skeptical on the subject of religion, as the following speech of his will show: "The mercantile and missionary enterprises are of much the same stamp ; both alike profitable schemes for speculation." His new friends afterwards became much attached to him, and will ever re- member with gratitude his kindness ; for iaf ter their depar- ture from the islands, he repeatedly sent them pr, sents of value, such as teas, sugars, cloths, &c. — till they left Oregon to return to their native land, he manifested for them the sincerest friendship. Between sunset and twilight they dropped anchor in the bay of Honolulu. That evening Dr. Whita and Mr. Wilson went on shore with the pilot, leaving llu- ladies lamenting that they had not the like privilege. To add to their loneliness and feeling of desertion, the offi- cers also went ashoro, abandoning them to the tender offices of the hands, who seemed striving with one another in keep- ^'i;;'.?'' 44 TEN YEARS IN OHEGON. ing the most perfect silence. Their work was at last don£, for a brief space at least ; they were emphatically enjoying "rest from their labors." The next morning the gentlemen returned, bringing wiih them a quantity of bananas, cucumbers, and water-melons, and a pitcher of milk for coffee — and such a breakfast as they made ! The cucumbers, sliced up in vinegar, were de- licious ; and the melons and bananas, although more tastelei^ than our fruits, were fine ; and thanks and gratitude swelled the bosoms of the partakers, to the great Creator and Giv Mefssts. Bingham and Smith, and received kind invita^ons to iikev^ houses, which were thankfully accepted, and they accoi^pgr nied them to the town, where they also received vi^t^from the reside;it missionaries, who dined with them, and witjpi whom they had a very interestbg conference meeting, and who joined witli them in retuming thanks to the Almjghiy for their preservation frpm the dangers whi^h had beset them in their long and perilous voyage. The company were distributed in different places and be- ing followed in a few days by their effects, were, to be bri^, finally settled in their winter quarters. During their first dinner, they were much amused by the appearance of ^h^ native asb. .tanjts, one of whom stppd fttcach end oi the tablet clad in their single tappa garment, thrown over their shoul- der in the form of a hlmkfft, and goziag slyly at thQ stnuv gers, with looks of gre»t curiosity ; while they were |q tho^ tujrn, equally unceremoniouA. Thegr gravely detecmine4 within themselves^ that th«y wpuld Jbave no «uch slpght)/ apparelled creatures aboiit ih&m- But in a. short time tiaey became aiccustooied to the singularity, an4, compelled by 'i ..VMl^iSI ***.''rf,^. TEK VKARS in OREOOX. 45 tic sultriness of the climate, in some measure imitated their example. Of the natives they saw great numbers, as they could not well do otherwise ; for on leaving the ship, the shotc was covered with them, to witness their landing ; and the next Sabbath they were at church to the number of a thousand, shaming eveft the churches at home, by theii- grave and careful attention to the services. They not only performed the domestic senices, but all the manual labor (jf the islands. On public oeeasions, their dress was entirely European* Those of the females was principally black and white, the materials ^atin, silk, or cotton cloth, and straw hats of their own manufacture. It will be remembered, thatr, owihg to the proximity of China, silks and such articles were obtained much cheaper than in this country. It Was ludicrous to witness their attempts at imitating the foreign ladies in their dress. They were frequently seen flaunting about the streets in the richest of satins, perfectly stdckingless, and heavy shoes, with soles of half an inch thickness. The i-aiment worft by the men resembled the duiniiier clothing worn by Americans. About this time occurred the death of the king's sister. frf. find Mrs. Wliite viSited her during her illness, and were likewise present on the funeral occasion. It was one of the ifliost imposing ceiemonics they ever witnessed. Notwith- sUinding, in Washington, they afterwards attended the fu- lierals of senatoi-s and other distinguished men, they could iiot compart with this in augustness and splendor. By lome means, pl'obably embalming, the lady was preserved uhbimed for A mdhth, and every day the people had hours 6( wailing, which were without intermission from early in the fnorhing tilt about nine o'clock ih the fbrenoon. The ddttnds to which they gave vrtterance, were, with the eifcep- jte m 4C TEN YEARS IN OREGON. t* tion of the howling of wolves, the most dismal that could be imagined. This rite was continued till the day of the bu- rial, when every thing was conducted in the most decorous manner. At sunrise began the firing of cannon at intervals, like the tolling of a bell. The national, or king's guard of five himdred men, then convened, and were soon in full array, and the coffin was brought forward and placed xmder their charge, while the procession was forming. First walk- ed the king, leaning on the arm of Mr. Jones, the American consul. The dress of the sovereign was really dazzling. One article alone, his coat, he had imported from England at the cost of a thousand dollars, and it was a truly gorge- ous thing. It was of the most superb quality of cloth, plen- tifully decorated with gold lace and buttons, and the nicest workmanship was lavished upon it. Next him came the chiefs and chiefesses (as they are called) of blood, the most respectable of the foreign residents, missionaries ; and in the rear followed an immense concourse of the common people, wearing an aspect more mournful and becoming the occa- sion than the stately, splendid group preceding them to the solemn muric of a march. The cahelas were perhaps the most singular featiires of the spectacle. These, the doctor says, he is unable to describe, otherwise than that they were poles, the size of a man's arm, from twelve to fifteen feet in length. Two-thirds the length from the top, was covered with feathers of the most costly kind, so much so that probably the amount expended on the two could not have been less than two or three thoiisand dollars. They were obtained, with the greatest difficulty, from rare species of birds, inhabiting the mountains. The colors were red, white, yellow, and black. They were singularly beautiful, Eoftly reflecting the rays of light, with a velvet richness, as ■■Mm>m:. i 'v'^^Si^^^*^-' ^ i.''^ ii^' "JSii •\^{*:.'*'»*- R"-t»*^ikffi- "TTfT: \ K TEN TEARS IN OREGON. they were borne on the shoulders of men immediately in advance of the monarch. In the burying ground were seen several planted on the graves of the dead, soiled and discol- ored by the weather. On the group of islands there were several small towns, but Honolulu, of Oahu, was one of the most consequence among them, containing perhaps from ten to twelve thou- sand inhabitants. They did not visit each of the islands ; but receiving an invitation from the missionaries, OuUck and Whitney, Dr. and Mrs. White visited them at Youii ; and the prosperity of their friends tended much to encourage them in their ar- duous undertaking. They visited, or rather saw, the extinguished craters of several volcanos, and passed in view of the field where was fought one of the most eventful contests of the last two cen- turies, and which secured to the last king, Tamaahaah, the whole of the Sandwich group. He was a man of shrewd- ness and canning, possessing many good qualities, and, es- pecially in the latter part of his life, was much beloved by his subjects. During their five months' stay at the islands, being en- tirely without occupation, it was proposed to the doctor to take the place of Mr. Johnson, the teacher of the half-caste school. Mrs. White was similarly engaged. There had never been a school established for the children of the white inhabitants, and they had therefore honored her by proffer- ing her the charge of one. Thus time hung less heavily on their hands than it would otherwise have done. With one exception, the scholars of Mrs. White's school were white. Tlie little adopted son of the king was a pupil when it suited his convenience. The young prince always I.-" -'K-^:- w'^m'mtrff^p^'^' i% tKK' TEARS IK OREOOK. came in soihewhat imposing style, never accompanied hy less thain six attendants. One drew his little carriage, and one walked on cither side, and the otters performed such ser>'ices as he required at their hands. While he was in school, they remained on the green before the house, not being allowed to receive instructions with their youthful master. The members of the school were all young, ttie elder ones having been sent to the United States to obtain their education. They were perfectly good and gentle. As they had never been exposed to improper influences, they knew nothing of evil, and their instructress fondly imagined that even angels could scarce be purer than these deair cbildren. During his mother's labors, Silas was left at home, con- signed to the care of his native nurse, Kakeria, who was de- votedly attached to her charge, moaning and weeping over liim bitterly when she thought of his approaching departure for Oregon, imprinting upon his yoimg face kisses of the tenderest affection. She was a most matiemal creature, and a treasure to her mistress, because of her cheerfid, futbfitl services. , . The parents expressed great gratitude to tlie iAstruciors of their children, and presented them gifts of much val!ue. Captain Charlton, the English consul, and iKr. Jones, the American consul, each sent them a fine cow ; as also did Mr. "Whitney, of Youii. Iteir new commander. Captain Hinckly, unwilling to be outdone in kindness, generously gave the animals their keeping ; and Mr. Hooper placed on board two barrels of molasses. Numberless were fhe ^new- nesses of their many friends. ,i,j; •v 1 A '>fU TBK TKARS IN 0REG05. 4» CHAPTER V. ictors itue. the did tain jusly k on intf- Spring and preparations to leave the Sandwich Islands — Benefit to them of their residence there — ^Engage passage on board ship — ^Food and water — Windf and boisterous — Great loss— Contents of the Boxes sent on board by Pilot Reynolds ; his wife — Interesting young man; his marriage with a native woman — Mr. Grimes — Sue> cession of Storms — ^Endeavor to cross the Bar of the Columbia- Desperation of the Captain — Crossing — Lulling of the Winds— Ba- ker's Bay — Rest— View — ^Varieties of Trees; their enormous size- King Chenamufl and his Consort ; his Intoxication ; their Dress- Aground three times — ^Visitor — Invitation to the Shore — First Canoe ride — ^Arrival at Astoria— Residence of Mr. Bimey — Beds for the Night. Spring was now approaching, and with it thoughts of leaving the pleasant home and friends to which they had be- come much attached. They were sorrowful, but duty bad« them on to the wilds of Oregon, and they accordingly made their preparations. They were benefited by their residence at the islands, for they had learned much of missionary Ia> bors, and the course which they must in part pursue. They embarked on board the Diana, Captain IBnckley^ and found that, unlike the vessel they had before sailed 'm, this was provided with a variety of good, wholesome provis- ions. They were thirty days at sea, and had a very bofe- terous passage ; but nothing more disastrous occurred than the death of their English cow, which to the children was a misfortune, as they were thereby deprived of milk. After they had been out a fortnight, and the weather 50 TBN TEARS IN ORBOOV. had become somewhat calm, they felt a curiosity to open the three boxes which had been sent on board by Pilot Rey- nolds, mentioned in the last chapter, labelled to Dr. White. In the first they found a dozen bottles of wine, in the second eight of brandy, all invaluable in sickness, and in the third pepper, spices, cassia, tea, sugar, and every such article as Mrs. White needed on going to housekeeping. They had often seen Reynolds while at the islands, and endeavor- ed to learn something of his former history. But in this they were disappointed. They had heard him speak much of his children. One morning Mrs. White went into liis store on some trifling errand, when she saw a native woman behind one of the counters. She was dressed in black satin, with a wreath of rare and beautiful feathers upon her head, and was a tall, fine looking creature, of rather noble ap- pearance. After the usual compliments, Mr. Reynolds, turning to her, said, "Mrs. White, the mother of my chil- dren." Tliis was a singular introduction, and she was rea- sonably surpiised, especially as before she had never heard lum mention his wife, and besides, this was the first instance she had ever seen of a colored woman* being the wife of a Vfhite man. A young man who left Boston with them, afterwards married a native woman. He was a man, who, from his acquirements and deportment, would have been judged pos- sessed of too much pride to form a connexion considered so degrading. Hb intellect was of a high order. He was well educated, and it was a treat, which the passengers often sought, to converse with him a few moments when he could be released from his duties ; for, owing to his not very pros- * The complexion of the native is midway between the African and Indian of this coimtry. rl TEN TEARS IN OREOOK. ftl i I perous circumstances; he had gone before the mast to work his passage to the islands, where his father was residing. A« there were so few young ladies in the country, he could have returned to the states for a wife, if so disposed ; for ho wa« so prospered that he could have done so with propriety as did another gentleman, named Grimes, a passenger, who would have been suspected as being more likely to take the opposite course. He was almost the reverse of Pitman — hit inferior in both intelligence and education. He went out as clerk for an uncle ; and five years after, when they re- turned, he accompanied them, a wealthy merchant, married a lady in New England, and then returned to the islands. Nothing of particular interest occured, till they ncared the bar of the Columbia river, where lay the greatest danger they encountered, although for three days before they reach- ed it, there was a succession of storms. The danger far ex- ceeded their expectations, for they crossed under the most unfavorable circumstances that probably a vessel ever did. Their pilot had not been on the spot for twenty-two years, and the captain never had. When near it, the ship was obliged to lay to, on account of the violence of the storm ; and Avhen this had in a slight degree abated, th^ were half a day making vain endeavors to get into the river. The captain, however, became more desperate and deter- mined, continually fortifying his wavering courage by deep quaffs of brandy. At last they reached the place of peril, and he thundered forth orders to put the vessel forward. It was done, and they expected every moment that destruction would ovei-whelm them, for they saw and heard the roar of breakers just ahead, and it was impossible to determine their precise situation, shrouded and enveloped as they were with spray. However, this nightmare was soon ended ; for, as %• it TKir TBAR8 IN ORKGOV. Providence would have it, they struck the channel, although not yet out of danger ; for, the wind lulling, and the ebb tide so strong, the captain, fearful they would be carried back into ihe sands, and thus inevitably perish, ordered the dropping of the anchors.* After a while the winds rose, a favorable breeze set in, and they came in view of Cape Disappointment strain, and were socm harbored in Baker's Bay, and in com- parative safety. The evening passed quietly, and they dwelt largely on the pleasure they anticipated for the morrow, in treading once more the shores of America, although so dis* tant from their native homes. Even the good brig Diana seemed enjoying perfect rest in her snug harbor, after having been so long the sport of boisterous winds and waves. Morning light stole upon them, and opened to their view a soene altogether new and interesting. Cape Disappointment li^ on their left, several hundred feet above the level of ^' sea, commanding a stupendous view of both land and wa 1?he whole cliff and coast were covered with trees and herb- age differing from any thing they had seen in other countries. Thi^e they found the red and white fir, spoken of by Clark and Lewis, as growing to such amazing height — sometimes from two himdred and seventy to three hundred feet high, * To croKi the bar, bring Cape Diaappointment to bear north-eaat, tiien lead np until Cheenook Point bears east by north, which yon steer ht VDtil yoa have the cape north or north by east, when yon have a Mtnt wind from north-west. I have even hauled op ibr it when north- aorth-eait, bordering npon the north breakers ; bat keep in four fadi- omst lead dose along the cape to avoid the apit aand, and continue to nun into Baker's Bay cn'il you have Point EUice and Tongue Point ■hot in thus X— when yon can lead along to Baker's Bay, taking care to haul out gradually as you eroaa it, until you have Point RUice and TMgue Point well opeA, ao that yon may avoid the lying to windward of Cheenook Polat.— Stoewn'a Ckart. r TBN YKARS IN ORSOOK. 53 resembling the hemlock in leaf and bark. They also af- terwards saw at Astoria the tree mentioned by the above named gentlemen, felled a few years since by a party of Ca- nadian Frenchmen, who supposed it to be the lai^est in the world. Foiir feet above the roots, it measured fifty-seven feet nine inches, and was in the vicinity of three hundred feet in height, perfectly sound, and just as they had represented it in their official reports. In that section were wanting many varieties of trees whick grow in this country, nor did the doctor afterwards find them during his absence from the states, such as the black and white walnut, hickory, sugar maple, and chest- nut ; but in their stead the white oak in its most scrubby form, some pine, large quantities of cedar, ash, laurel, yew, hazel, and alder. It was about the ninth of May — many sorts of flowers were in bloom, and their walks were really delightful. For the first time they now saw King Chenamus and his consort, who visited them on board, to their no small amuse- ment, and some mortification, a&.he had not been long vrith them when he became stupidly intoxicated, for the captain could not resist his pertinacious pleadings for strong drink. Captain Cushing afterwards built a brig, and named it after this chief. Although he was styled king, he held it not at all derogatory to his dignity to guide the ship up the river, as no other pilot could be obtained. The dress of this wor- thy consisted of a single blanket, thrown carelessly over hi« shoulder, and the queen's was similar, excepting that she wore a pdr of leggins. Every thing passed off very pleasantly, till the second day's sail up the river, and the voyagers were rejoicing in the thought that their troubles were ended, when, in conse- 54 TKSr TKARS IN OREGOK< quence of the tide leaving them, or the pilot's or captam*9 ignorance of the channel, they ran aground. This liLppen- ed three times, till at last, m sight of Astoria, the vessel was thrown almost upon her beam's ends. While in this condition they discovered a white man put- ting out to them in his canoe, and although a stranger, they welcomed him with the joy they would have done an old friend. He remained with them till dusk, when he kindly in- yited the passengers to the shore, which imitation the cap- tain advised them to accept. He was anxious respecting the safety of his ship, as, in her exposed position, if even asligLt m]uall struck her, she must be hopelessly wrecked They accordingly embarked, some of them, Mrs. White among the number, in the little canoe, and others in the boats. This was the- first sail Mrs. White had tal'on in a craft of this sort ; and while seated on its bottom, she trem- bled more with terror than she had done on borrd the stranded vessel. Indeed it was a timerous mode of trav- elling. When they reached Fort George, now Astoria, it was about ten o'clock in the evening, and they ^vere conducted up a gentle dechvity, perhaps one hundred and fifty yards from the landing, to the residence of Mr. Bimey, clerk of the trading po3t at that place, where they were handsomely wel- comed by him and his wife, a very pretty native woman. When they entered their house, they were much impressed with its homelike appearance. A bright fire blazed cheer- fully on the hearth, the fir floor was scrubbed clean and neat, and the pine table was of snowy whiteness. Fur- niture was scarce, indeed, the only seats being low, wooden benches. It was soon time to retire, and they looked around for en- ■Mi TEN TBAR8 IN OREGON. 55 trances to other chambers, or cor.ohes on which to lay their wearied frames ; but there were neither, and so they were, perforce, obliged, some wit'a blankets, to be sure, to seek the softest spot on the hard planks, and stictch themselves there- on ; thankful that, in addition to the floor for a bed, they had not the rocking ol the vessel to disturb their slumbers. ■»*■ SA TKN TEARS IM OREeOK. CHAPTER VI. Size of Astoria — The Diana Btill aground — Preparations to go to Fort Vancouver — One eyed Pilot George — ^Remonstrances of Friends — Mrs. White's Resolution — Leaving Astoria — Singing of the Crew — Beauty of the Shores — Reflections — Seeking for a place to Camp — Startling Incident — Camping — Tale of the " Petrified Sister." From the fame of Astoria, they supposed it to be a fort of considerable strength ; and great was their disappoint- ment at finding, besides Mr. Birney's, but two other houses, and those built of logs, and enclosed by rail fences. How- ever, the place occupied a very beautiful site, commanding a fine view of a romantic country, and also of the noble rive? , which was here two miles wide. Till four o'clock in the af- ternoon, they anxiously awaited the arrival of the ship, that they might proceed on to Fort Vancouver. But there was no prospect of her immediate release from her perilous situ- ation ; and it was proposed to despatch an express to the fort, and Dr. White was informed that himself and another could accompany it if they chose, and he decided on doing so. The guide is worthy of a passing notice, although not a dignitary of the highest standing. He was a brawny, ath- letic Indian, with but one eye ; and from his partiality for England and its monar^.h, they called him "pilot George." Notwithstanding his unfortunate deformity, he probably un- derstood his business better than any man on the river. Un- like his race generally, he was not at all uicitum, and was the most able linguist of his color in the section, having a TBN TBARS IN ORSaON. 57 smattering of French and English, and many of the tongues of his country. Excepting him, they could not converse with one of the crew save by signs. All the missionaries shrank from accompanying the doctor, and remonstrated warmly against his thus jeopardizing his safety, by ventur- ing, unguarded, through a strange coimtry, not knowing the dangers to which he might be exposed, and affirming they had no confidence in the fideUty of his companions. He remained unshaken in his decision, and Mrs. W., not- withstanding repeated dissuasions, and the descriptions she had read and heard of the treachery peculiar to the Indian character, overcame her natural womanly timidity, and firmly expressed her determination to share with her husband the perils of the voyage. Their preparations were soon made, and they were but small and hasty ; and at five o'clock, having taken leave of Mr. Bimey and their friends, seated themselves in their little bark, those they left behind watching them with tearful eyes and swelling hearts. As they receded from the shore, the crew began singing cheerilv a native song, till the shore ' ^ again with the mel- ody, keeping as exact time with their p;iddles as < Muld the most scientific of New England singing masters In about twenty minutes they rounded Tongue Point, two miles dis- tant irom Astoria, and were hidden from the gazers on shore. For several miles they passed rapidly along, feasting their eyes upon the most imposing and romantic scenery. On either side were towering mountains, solemn forests and pleasant glades, where the beams of the setting sun crept gently, and rested lovingly on the soft greensward. Involuntarily their thoughts wandered back to the time when our country, untenanted by the palefaces, with all its picture que love- 58 TEN TEARS IK 0BE60K. liness, was the home and property of the red man ; when he roamed through its vast solitudes, undaxmted by fears of a race then unknown to him, which has since become his pitiless persecutor. They caught themselves gazing pity- ingly at their companions, almost fancying that their mu- sings partook of a similar nature, for their dark faces were grave and thoughtful, and their song had died on their lips. Twilight stole upon them, and with it thoughts and scenes of things far distant, home and kindred, and they were silent, for their fancies would not clothe themselves in words. The voice of the pilot broke the stillness, as he proposed seeking some spot on shore, on which to pass the night. They acquiesced, and the men paddled more slowly, while he searched from side to side for a landing place. Suddenly he pointed in a certain direction, and whispered between his closed teeth, hist ! and following with their eyes, they saw a light smoke rising from the tops of the trees. He con- sulted the men in whispers a few moments, and then turned the head of the canoe towards the spot. Slowly and cau- tiously they floated on, and a sort of panic seized upon the two spectators, and their recollection called before them deeds of horror, done in places and under circumstances less suited to their performance than this. At length they shot into a little nook, and the men rested upon their paddles. Before them, near a large fire, sat an Indian man and wo- man, so intent upon what seemed to be cooking, that the intruders dropped noiselessly along to within thirty yards of them before they were discovered. When their eyes rested upon them, they started to their feet, and a loud, sharp *ugh !' rangf through the forest. With his rifle ipointed at the boat, the man glided to a tree, and skulked from one to another till quite near it, when he sprang into a thicket and disap aPilfc' T&M TEARS IK 0REG05. 59 peared, much to their rehef, for they had each instant ex- pected that one of the party would fall by the deally aim of the savage. It would have been a rich subject for Coop- er, with his peculiar genius, to dwell upon. The crew seemed perfectly undisturbed by the aspect of affairs, sitting quietly through the scene, and then walking composedly towards the fire, where they were in a few moments joined by the strange Indian. They stood together for several moments, apparently without speaking, when the pilot went to the shoi e, and motioned the occupants of the boat to come forward. The strangers watched them closely, but allowed them to advance without interruption, probably convinced of their inoffensiveness. After a time, the woman stole out from among the trees, and, seating herself beside her hus- band, they were both soon quite friendly. They presented their visitors with some wapatoes, which they had roasted, which, although they were not as delicious as the best of potatoes, as their appetites were sharpened, tasted well. After supper, they were sufficiently wearied to sleep, and therefore drew the canoe ashore, and in it composed them- selves to rest under the shelter of blankets. They slept sweetly and undisturbed till nearly sunrise, when they were awakened by the rocking of the boat, and found that by the rising of the tide, they were almost afloat. After breakfast they were again on their way, and had not been long on the river, when they passed the tree, high in the branches of which, was lodged the body of the " pet- rified or preserved sister." The story, although it carried with ' 'j a strong appearance of improbability, the doctor had no inclination to disbelieve, as he afterwards heard it repeat- edly from Mr. Bimey and Dr. Townsend, who were at the time travelling through the country with Mr. Xutall, the » ^ 60 TBN YBAR8 IM ORSOOK. ■, famous botanist, and others who were acquainted with the facts, for a tale of truth. Near the place, several years previous, had lived an In- dian family, of which little was known, save the following circumstance : A daughter, perhaps between sixteen and eighteen years of age, was afflicted with a long and painful illness. She had a brother, by whom she was passionately beloved, who would sit hours by her bedside, clasping her hand in his, and* bending upon her looks of pity and affection. When she died, his distress and grief knew no bounds, and he h^^d her obsequies performed ia a manner entirely differing from the usual custom of the tribe. She was dressed in her holyday robes and ornaments, placed carefidly upon matA in a canoe, and suspended in the topmost boughs of an alder. So far as can be learned, this people are unacquainted with any art of embalming, and there is, therefore, no reason for supposing that the youth resorted to such means ; but cer- tain it is, that he visited her weekly, mourning over the dear remains ; and after some time elapsed, he announced that he did not believe his sister was dead, as she had not begun to decay in the least. The friends repaired to the spot, and found it as he had said, that not the slightest trace of de- composition could be discovered. This phenomenon contin- ued for seven or eight years, at which time Dr. Townsend happening to hear the wonderful stories of the " young girl who had been petrified by a brother's tears," determined to obtain a sight of her. This he succeeded in doing unob- served, and foimd the body in a most perfect state of pres- ervation, wearing, in every particular, a semblance of youth and freshness. He was stricken with amazement, and imme- diately resolved to steal her away and bring her to the to res- TKN TBAIIS IN OREO ON. 61 United States, where he was certain she would be to him of immense value, as, never within his knowledge, had such a wonder been exhibited there. He accomplbhed the busi- ness so far as getting the corpse from the tree, and even conveying it to Astoria, where Mr. Bimey was feaiful of the consequences, if the act was detected. The sequel showed his apprehensions were justifiable ; for, in a day or two, the brother, on his first visit to the tree, discovered that the ca- noe was vacant, and immediately suspected Dr. Townsend, or some of the whites, for none of his own race would be guilty of dbturbing the repose of the dead. Transported with rage and grief, he immediately assembled a band of braves, and, armed and horridly painted, they presented themselves at the door of the fort, and he demanded the body of his sister. At first Dr. Townsend disclaimed all knowledge of it, but upon Mr. Bimey's representing to him the danger they incurred, himself especially, as they firmly declared they would sacrifice him to their vengeance, he reluctantly consented to its delivery. They received the corpse with every demonstration of reverence, and, carrying it back, de- posited it in its former resting place, where it was not again disturbed. It was now supposed that the situation of the body, so high in the air, and the sea at no great distance, the saltness of the atmosphere prevented putrescency hav- ing any power over it. the 63 TBN YBARB IN OREGOV. CHAPTER VII. Indian Village — Kindness of an Indian Woman— New kind of Um- brella—Accident — Meeting with Dr. Talmie— Killing an Eagle — Arrival at the Fort — Garden and Plantation — Arrival of the Diana — Mr. Jason Lee — Raillery of Miss Pitman — Mr. Lee's Introduction — Leaving the Fort — Captain Hinckley's officiousness — Laughable ar- rangement — Boat races — Conclusion respecting Mr. Lee — Putting in for the niglit — Supper and walk — Pond — Pleasant sail — Willo- mettc Falls — A tradition — ^Bargain — Portage — Elk BlufT— Pudding River — Arrival at Battens de porte McKoys — Letter — Departure for the Mission — Delightful journey — Arrival at their destination — Miss Downing and Mr. Shepherd — His appearance — Two thousand two hundred miles journey ended — ^First dinner. •Near the tree connected with the foregoing talc, the river abounded in small islands, which, during the June 'reshets and flood tides, were nearly hidden from sight. The valley or bottom of the river here was wide, but the channel nar- row, winding and difficult. Towards noon, the voyagers arrived in sight of an Indian hamlet, which consisted of a row of buildings, if I may so call them, not less than a hun- dred feet in length, and perhaps thirty in width, formed by planting in the ground poles, perhaps twenty-five feet long, notching the ends, with others extending from each to each, and placing against them barks, the whole resembling the roof of a house. Towards this pilot George directed the crew to row, and as they approached the shore, large num- bers of both sexes and all sizes, flocked to the beach. They seemed to be in a state of great poverty and destitution. TEN TEARa IN OREGON. 63 Their slight clothing was of skins, and almost their only food salmon. One of the women seeing the child, came forward with a large piece of fish in her hand, the grease trickling through her brown fingers, and offered it to him. After some little repugnance, Mrs. White took it and gave it to Silas, who, with less fastidiousness than his mother, eagerly devoured it. They tarried here but a short time, and had been on the river an hour longer, when the heat was so excessive, that Mrs. White suflfered extremely with sickness and head-acho. They now felt the uued of an umbrella, which they had been unable to get from the vessel, for they were destitute of any screen to shield them from the scorching rays. They pushed to the shore, and, procuring branches of the yevv-, fastened them to a staff. From the shade of this they ex- perienced sensible relief, and the Indians chaunting a low, mellow song, a drowsiness crept over the senses of Mrs. White, and, yielding to the soothing influence, she fell into a refreshmg sleep. Towards evening a light breeze sprang up, and they hoisted a sail. Thu: was done by fastening a blanket to a long pole, in imitation of the mainmast of a ship. As the wind freshened, they raised another similar, which very much increased their speed. Au they were passing ;'ovmd a sharp point, a puff of wind struck one of the sails, and, loosening a comer, turned the canoe far on its side, imminently endan- gering the safety of its occupants, and giving them a hearty fright. At this moment Dr. Talmie, from the fort above, hove in sight, on his way to the Cowerlitz settlement. He saw the accident, and hastened to the spot, without the expectation of finding a single survivor, and assuring them that it was i* 94 TEN TEARS IN OREOOK. little less than a miracle that they were saved. They found him a pleasant, intelligent young man. His cordiality and friendship interested them much ; and their past danger was forgotten in the happiness of meeting him. He informed them that they were about thirty miles from their destina- tion, and after a cheerful chat with him, they separated, much pleased with their short interview. The river now gradually widened; the hills were not so high, and they passed many ash and elm swamps, which, like the islands during the June freshets, were completely inundated. Dur- ing the other parts of the year, they are very valuable for grazing purpo >s, as rushes grow there in great abundance, but are nearly useless for cultivation. As they sailed on, they saw, far up the river, a speck in the sky, which they observed with much curiosity ; it enlarg- ed as it neared them, and finally proved to be an eagle, the first they had seen. It alighted on a large tree at some dis- tance, and the Indians paddled swiftly towards it, till within fifty or sixty yards, when, with characteristic Indian stealth- iness, they floated silently a few moments, while one of them prepared his gun to fire. The noble bird sat proud- ly in his lofty station, unaware of approaching danger, and our friends looked on him with pity, as he received the dead- ly contents of the weapcMi. For a moment he sat motionless, when he suddenly toppled and wavered, and then came hurtling over and over through the air to the ground. With a shout of triumph, his destroyer leaped ashore to secure his prize. This, however, he did not find easy ; for the bird was yet alive, and, even in his death-throes, singularly strong, and fought desperately a long time. At last he succeeded in killing him, and they foimd him unusually large, meas'* TEN TEARS IS OREOOK. 65 uring from tip to tip of his extended wings, nearly nine feet. His piercing eyes, noble white head, and majestic form, in- terested the spectators. The shades of evening were now falling aro\md them, and they sped rapidly towards the fort, which they reached about midnight, thoroughly wearied ; the monotony of the solitary, gloomy evening's journey, unbroken, save by the repeated firing of heavy muskets, to apprise its inhabitants of their approach. The noise rolled and reverberated like thunder through the hills, awakening the echoes, and re- tuming with singular effect. The crew took possession of their effects, and pilot George led the way to the gate, little more than half a mile distant. They rapped loudly at the portal, and were answered from within by the barking of dogs. In a few moments they heard a heavy step, and a gruff voice roughly demanded " who *s there !" They an- swered that they were strangers from the states. The gate was thrown open, and they were admitted by Captain Holmes, commander of the ship Vancouver, who was after- wards drowned in the pilot boat at Fort George. They were next politely introduced to John McLaughlin, presi- dent of the Hudson's Bay Company west of the Rocky Mountains. This dignified, white-headed old gentleman,, was kind and affable in his mannei*s, and had a thousand questions to ask, particularly of the difficulty between the United States and England, upon the Maine question, which was just then breaking out. Refreshments were ordered, and they sat down to a plain but excellent board ; after which the steward spread their mats and blankets upon the birth-like fixtures, then the only beds of the country, and tliey retired for the night. The next morning they rose early, and on leading the 5 66 TBN YEARS IN ORfiOO!?. IJ house, found themselves in an enclosure of stockades, of perhaps three acres. This was all the fortification the place could boast. In this enclosure, on one side, were stores ond groceries, and on the other, mechanics' shops of all kinds, carried on with as much precision and regularity as in any town of New England. The ground unoccupied by buildings was sodded, and grass was springing up in freshness and beauty. In the rear, was an extensive garden and or- chard, containing many, and some rare, sorts of vegetables, and English fruits in considerable abundance. After break- fast, the governor politely invited the doctor to accompany him to the plantation, where, to his great surprise, he found a large collection of horses, sheep and neat stock. As they were returning homeward by the river side, at a mile's distance on their right, they saw the Diana in full sail for the fort, where she soon arrived, bringing safely their cargo and all the missionaries. The doctor, on his arrivnl at the fort, had, through the kindness of Dr. McLaughlin, sent a despatch to Mr. Jason Lee, superintendent, requesting him to meet and escort the party to his station, southward about seventy miles distaut. on the Willamette. The day following the coming of their friends from Asto- ria, there was a storm of wind, and in the midst of it they descried two canoes, laboring with great difficulty up the river, and by the aid* of his glass. Governor McLaughlin an- nounced that Mr. Lee was approaching. Hereupon, ^'^nif- icant, mischievous glances were cast at Miss Pitman, and many remarks made not a little teazing and provoking. She bore it well, though not without some shrinking. They all «at in a room commanding a view of the gate, and soon saw from it Mr. Lee approaching with enormous strides ; he asw oyer six feet in height, broad shouldered, slightly bent, and TEN YBARS IN OREGON. 07 \ somewhat ungainly in his motions. As he came forward, each opened upon Miss Pitman a pretty severe lire of rail- lery, till she became considerably agiUited. He entered the room, and was ititroduced by Mr. McLiiughlin to Dr. White. They greeted each other cordially, and he, in turn, present- ed him to the others, reserving Miss Pitman till the last ; and when they met, a shower of smiling looks were turned upon her. She exerted herself to throw off her embarrass- ment. A light blush lose to her cheek, and a slight trepi- dation, which added to the charm of her manner, was all the evidence that she was conscious of any peculiarity in her position. That Mr. Lee was pleased, could be easily discov- ered from the complaisance of his bearing, and the trouble he took to render himself agreeable. The next afternoon the expedition started for their final destination. Captain Ilinckley made himself very officious in the ai ^angements, which was accounted for from the fact that his wife was to accompany them. Each person had their place assigned them, and poor Miss Pitir 'oimd her- self with Mr. Lee, the last to leave the shore. She stood in much embarrassment, depending upon the captain for a seat ; and the spectators now found what had made him so active, for he handed her to a canoe where there were none but natives, unable to comprehend a word of EngUsh, and seat- ed Mr. Lee by her side for a two days' journey. It was ii severe joke upon both, for it was not only in the presence ■of the missiouar'. s, but of nil the English residents of the fort, and they w.;ll understood it, as coidd plainly be seen from the readv sTriles that circulated from face to face of the whole ,ompan)'. It was a fine afternoon, and tlie little caravan pushed off cheerily. During their voyage, racing afforded them much amuse- mm " 08 TEN TEARS IN OnEOOST. inent. They were accompanied by Mr. Whitcomb, fi jm tlic Sandwich Islands, who had been officer of a vessel, and Mr. Wilson, and they were both good rowers, Mr. Lee prided himself on his skill, and with reason, too, for after long and doubtful contests he would come off vic- tor, and it was jokingly conceded that he wat; just the man for superintendent ; as, in spite of adl efforts . j the contrary, he would take the lead. Till sunsei, they travelled merrily on, — the boats passing and repassing, sometimes so closely that their jolly cnnvs could join hands, — when they put into a little nook to encamp for the night. Here they found a beautiful oak orchard grove, and made preparations to rest under its pleasant shade. They made a supper of salmon, potatoes, bread, nice but- ter, and tea, after which .they gj. ve themselves the pleasure of a stroll on the lawn, as it might be termed ; short pr.irie grass, which grew verj' delicately, in the shadow of the trees. They loitered ou till they reached a gentle eminence, from which they had a superb view of a broad lake-like pond, its bosom literally teeming with geese, wild ducks and swans. At eleven o'clock the next day, after a deUghtful sail, they arrived at the falls of the Willamette. These are about tliirty-eight feet in height, and are situated ia iv ro- mantic spot, is one of the finest and most eligible places for water privileges in Oregon. It is, and perhaps ever will be, famed in Indian annals for being the scene of events dear to the recollection of the red man. It seems the country about ti.j falls was once inhabited by a trib' V the heai of which was a chief, whose standing was similai to that of dictator. He Avas noted far and wide tor his ^reat powers of mind, and, unlike his race, was kind K TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 60 • 'i ind and generous to his people, and never restricted or intringed »pon their rights, and studied to gratify them in every re- spect consistent with what he conceived to be liis duty. His noble nature revolted at every thing like despotism, and yet he nilod his subjects perfectly through their affec- tio»». They loved him as they would have done a dear father. He was, in fact, their idol ; and to him were ren- dered honors as were never before granted a single chieftain in the western world- When he attended council, he was home thither upon a mat Utter, on the shoidders of eight men. Indeed, could they have had their will, he never would have gone abroad except in the arms of his subjects. What is most singular, this affection and reverence never di- mkiisht'd, and his latter years were cheered by the soothing cares of hin faithfvd frietjds. It is said to be about seventy ^ears since this chief expired, and he is still in tradition re- membered and deeply mourned by the scattered remnant of his tribe. Tliese are but few, (or while living peacefully on the banks of the Willamette, they in some manner incurred the displ«'asure of a nei-^hboring tribe, who came upon them, and in a single night destroyed large numbers, and they have never since regained their former prosperity. This event is suppoKied to have taken ];)la«-e some fifty-six years since. At 'his place th*^ travel lers were detained till one o'clock bar- gaining with the India n»s, wliom they found encamped in lari,'e numlxMs, to transport, their canoes and bnggage round the falls, over the steep, craggy rf/»ks, which was too tedious and difficult a task foi* themselves to undertake. Ai last they agreed to do it for each five charges of ammunition, and in addition a large cotton handkerehi«'f for their oMef. The portage was made, and they were again afloat, nc -'^ on th." Willamette, and shortl}'^ passed Elk Bluff, a prxipico 70 TEN TEAUS IN OHEGOIT. Steven Iiunnred feet in height. About sunset they reached Pudding riveiv a tributary to the Willamette, and again en- camped as on the previous night. In an early day, those who passed through the country, were obliged to travel in Urge companies, on account of the number and hostility of the natives. One of these parties, of the Hudson's Bay Company, had been reduced to great extremities, almost starvation, and with difficulty reached this place for encamp- ment. Here, their sufferings were so great that they were obliged to slay their horses for sustenance. Of the blood they made paddings, and hence the name of the river. The next morning they were again off in high glee, ex- pecting soon to reach a final landing. They arrived at Bat- tens de porte, McKoy's, at eight o'clock A. M , where they were to obtain horses, and make the remainder of the jour- ney by land. This old hunter, who had accompanied Mr. Hunt across the Rocky Mountains, in the service of John Jacob Astor, received them mith noble, warm lieartcd hos- pitality, truly pioneer-like. Here Mr. Lee received a lettar from Mr. Daniel Leo, sta- ting that no less than twelve persons lay sick at the mission, and some dangerously, begging Dr. White to hasten forward with all possible despatch. Accordingly, Mrs. Hinckley, Miss Downing, Miss Pitman, Dr. White, and Mr. Wilson, started for the mission, sixteen miles distant, leaving Mrs. White and the others to follow at a less rapid rate. Tlioy continually found features of country enthely new to them. Here were broad prairies, covered with fine, nutri- tious grass, its greatest height not more than six inches, studded thickly with the most delicately beautiful flowers thov had ever seen. They were all lovers of nature in her \ •^ TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 71 \ beauty, and now had their fill of that kind of enjoyment, which is derived from contemplating her in her mildest mood and loveliest dress. About the middle of the day they arrived at their desti- nation, the ladies somewhat wearied with their long ride. Passing round the corner of a wood, they came in view of a large log house, at which a boy, who had met them on their way, pointed, saying, in broken English, "datde mission." As they approached, a tall, fine looking man, in a brown liKcn frock, apparently about thirty-five years of age, came from the house. He started back on seeing them, and the blood rushed to his face, but it was too late to retreat, and he accordingly advanced to meet them. " Is that Mr. Shep- herd ?" mischievously whispered Mrs. Hinckley to Miss Downing, Mr. Shepherd's bride elect. " It must be Mr. Daniel Lee," returned she. However, she soon introduced him as Mr. Shepherd. The contrast in the dress of the two was laughably stri- king, and the purturbed face of the gentleman showed that he was aware of it. She had attired herself neatly and prettily, while he was clothed. as I have mentioned. How- ever, his apology wat that he was not aware that they were quite so near. There were no ladies at the mission, so that he was obliged ,to make all the preparations for the expected arrival, and had apparelled himself according to his business. The day was an era in the lives of our friends, and had not the number of sick demanded all their attention, their minds would have been engrossed by the reflection that their twcv thousand two hundred miles' journey was at length ended, and sombre forests and w praine home for years, if not for life. They had often wondered, as the two Lees and Mr. Shep ■ ^•*- mmmm mm 72 TEN YEARS Hi CREGOX. lierd had kept bachelor's hall for several years, whether they would not be embari'assed m theh- arrangements, by the presence of ladies, and the thoughts again returned to their minds, as they awaited the dinner hour. The table was laid with a tidy brown linen cloth, bright tin plates, knives and forks, and they partook with much zest of fried venison, sausages, cheese, unbolted bread, butter and fried cakes, all of Mr. Shepherd's manufacture, and very nice. At dessert they were regaled with a bountiful dish of strawberries. > 1 TEN TEARS IN OREGON. 7:3 CHAPTER VIII. Mr. Daniel Lee — Stroll in the garden — Its beanty — Accommoilations — Mission children — Names — Suflferings of the chief— Improvements Miss Pitman and Mr. Lee — The two marriages. Just as they were sitting down to dinner, Mr. Daniel Lee entered the house and gave them a warm greeting. As he had been watching with the sick the night previous, thinking to shake off his dullness, he had wandered into the prairie, and after plucking a few berries, had thrown him- self down under a tree and fallen asleep, where he had re- mained several hours, which was the reason for his not ma- king his appearance sooner. His language was enthusiastic, as he spoke of the benefit likely to accrue from the rein- forcement to the mission, and his glowing expressions cheered and encouraged them in no small degree. This gentleman was the nephew of Jason Lee, and had accompanied him on his first expedition to the Rocky Mountains ; these two be- ing the first Missionaries ever sent to that country. After the repast, they rambled through the garden, ac- companied by Mr. Lee and half a dozen of the mission chil- dren. It was kept with more taste and neatness than the one at the fort, although that was older, and therefore its fruits more advanced ; but the vegetables and flowers were quite as luxuriant and various. They were afterwards often amused by Gov. McLaughlin sending a huge beet, or a few rare specimens of fruit to Mr. Shepherd, challenging him to «■ IPM^ 74 TEN YEARS IK OREGON. produce their equal, which he more frequently excelled than otherwise. The sick were strewed about the floor of the house on mats and blankets, from which might be inferred that they were not well accommodated ; but their conveniences were as good as could be supplied in the small space occupied, for there were fifty-four whites and Indians together, under the roof, during the summer months, and the mansion was not of extraordinary dimensions, being forty feet by eigh- teen. It would be supposed that the general health would suffer in consequence ; but it did not. The mission children have been mentioned, and we will now return to them. There were, at that time, thirty-eight of them, principally orphans, which these benevolent men had rescued from great destitution, and were educating and instructing in the arts of civilized life, and some of them had made considerable advancement. For a time after their in- stalment with the whites, it was said they would exhibit all the restlessness characteristic of the race, and wander off to the prairies, often causing their kind protectors more trouble to retain than to feed and clothe them. Several were named after very grave individuals, such as Elijah Hedding, William Brooks, Nathan Bangs and Wilber Fisk. The^ ca- reers of some of these were very eventful, especially Wil- liam Brooks, who died in the states, and EUjah Hedding ; but I will speak of them more fully another time. The night after the arrival of the new recruit, Dr. White was called to minister to a great chief, named Sonick, about two miles distant, who had been shot, while sleeping, by a slave ; one ball carrying away a part of the under jaw, an- other wounding his breast, and a third entering his elbow and lodging in the palm of the hand. He was ten'ibly mutila- 1 J \ ' ^ TEN VEARS IK OREGON. 76 ted, and all excepting the doctor despaired of his life, and he only entertaining a hope from his losing such a quantity of blood, thereby preventing inflammation. His physical .sufferings were great, but his mental torture inexpressible, iK'iiig in continual fear that his enemy would yet bunt him out and murder him. He lingered a long time and finally recovered, but a most pitiable looking object. A few weeks subsequent, a sickness began to be prevalent ; and the doc- tor suspecting that it was caused by impure atmosphere, on carefully examining, found that large quantities of vegetable matter, which had been washed up by a river freshet, was in a state of decomposition. Also, about three hundred yards in front of the house, was a thick clump of wood, which prevented a free circulation of air from the prairie in its rear. With the help of the boys this was remedied, and the general health soon improved. They did not remove the timber entirely, but climbed into the trees, and with their hatchets lopped the branches, thereby accomplishing the object, and sparing the noble trees, which they were un- willing to sacrifice. This grove has connected with it many interesting associ- ations. Among them are the marriages of Mr. Lee and Miss Pitman, Mr. Shepherd and Miss Downing. From the moment that Mr. Lee and Miss Pitman so tamely submitted to Capt. Hinckey's orders at Fort Vancouver, an attachment sprang up between them. They were much in each other's society, and often indulged themselves in long rides on the prairies ; notwithstanding all this, with so much secrecy were their affaire managed, that none knew whether there was anything more serious in the futiwe, or not. With Miss Downing and Mr. Shepherd, it was different ; all was open and frank ; there was no difficulty in understanding their iP' re TEN YEARS IK ORBOOK. intentions, and in three weeks it was announced, that they would, on the following Sabbath, be united in the grove, and the neighbors invited to witness the nuptials. The day was fine, and as this was the first marriage of the kind that had taken place in the country, a large concourse, for the number of inhabitants, was assembled. After a hymn and prayer, Mr. Lee arose and delivered a very pathetic dis- course, after which he alluded to the approaching ceremony, and made a few remarks, much, in substance, as the follow- ing : "Friends and neighbors, you are aware that I have al- ways urged upon you the duty and propriety of lawful mar- riage. I have never been remiss in warning you against the sinful practices so prevalent in this country. They are wrong in the eyes of all the civilized world, and what is infi- nitely worse, in the sight of heaven. What I urge upon you by precept, I am dertermined this day to enforce by exam- ple;" and to the astonishment of the assembly he strode forward in a somewhat hurried and confused manner to the place where Miss Pitman sat, extending his long arm, which motion she seemed perfectly to imderstand, for she as qviickly seized the trembling digits at its extremity, and in military parlance, marched back in double quick time, and wheeling to the right, presented a bold front to the wondering, half amused spectators. Mr. Daniel Lee slowly arose, and open- ing the discipline with the gravity of a bishop, with would- be solemnity, which added new impulse to the half-stifled mirth of the lookers on, repeated the marriage rite, and the twain were made one. After this singular scene, Mr. Shep- herd and Miss Downing took their stand. Mr. Lee occupied the place of his nephew, and after the second ceremony, the congregation dispersed, and the friends of the wedded re- turned to a dinner prepared by the other ladies of the mission. > TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 77 :'a \\ CHAPTER IX. Occupations — Harvesting — Mr. Lee's expertness — Temperance meet- ings — Ewing Young and his distillery — Customs of the Hudson's Bay Company— Action of Gov. McLaughlin. After the above marriages, the wedded pairs started for the coast, where they remained a short time, sea bathing being necessary for Mr. Shepherd, as he had been, for some time, in delicate health ; and the others went about their occupations for the warm season. Some of the men com- menced erecting houses for the families of Dr. White and Mr. Beers, others a blacksmith shop, and fitting up a com- modious log school-room, which was likewise used for a place of worship. Messrs. Beers and Wilson had taken upon them to transport the goods from Fort Vancouver, which was a tedious bui^iness, as the river was rapid, and difficult of navigation, especially above the falls. Mr. Daniel Lee, with his troop of boys, took charge of the farming and gar- dening operations till harvest time, when all entered the field ; even Mr. Jason Lee, when he returned, wielded the cradle, and the doctor raking and binding after him ; and here all foimd him, as on the river, more than their equal. Harvest being ended, it was decided to hold a temperance meeting, on which occasion all the American residents, as >vell a3 the Canadian French and their families, were assembled en masse. There were several siprited addresses, and it was converted into a kind of sociable gathering, and was alto- gether an entertaining affair. This was not the first temper- ance meeting that had been held in the country ; for two years 78 TEK YEARS IN OREGON, previous Mr. Lee had convened meetings, and made cons'ul- crablc progression in the cause. One incident of his exer- tions is well worthy of recording. A gentleman named E\v- ing Young had erected a building in which he proposed car- rying on distiUing. Mr. Lee called on and remonstrated with him, but in vain, he refused to relinquish a project so nearly affecting his interest. Mr. Lee stated the case to his friends, and represented to them the vast amount of e\ il promising io accrue from the establishment. He enlisted their feelings, and, although so little able to do so, thoy raised a considerable sum of money, and laid it before Mr, Young for his acccptjince, provided he relinquished the en- terprise, lie was considerably affected by this expressiojK and informed Mr. Lee that if such was the sense of the com- munity on the subject, he wm M not so far trespass on it as to persist in his design. He immediately did as he had promised, notwithstanding he had completed the building,, raised the arch and set the boiler, soon afterward embarked with about twenty of his neighbors in an expedition to Cal- ifornia for cattle, as, with the exception of those brought in by the Hudson's Bay Company, the country was quite desti- tute. This was really a virtuous triumph, creditable to both parties. Mr. Lee's reasons for his course, at so early a pe- riod, were that it was the custom of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany to present a few gallons of liquor to the head of each family every holiday, especially Christmas and New Years . This had been attended with pernicious effects, ruinous to the health and peace of the inhabitants. In some instances, the brawls so produced, almost resulted in murder ; at one time a woman lay insensible thiiiry days, brought to the point of death by the hand of her drunken husband. Mr. Lee was desirous of discountenancing this practice, as far as pos- U£*i TBK YEAnS IN OREQOX. TO Kible, and often conversed with Gov. McLaughlin to this effect. As might be expected from a man of his decision of character and philanthropic disposition, the governor readily and chci rfully concurred witli him, and even wont so far as to decide that no grains should bo ground in the mills of the company for distilling of liquors, and gave such intimation to Mr. Yoimg. y^ «0 TXN YEARS IN OUEOOIT. CHAPTER X. Eadeavors Co reach home fiom Fort Vancouver by a new route — Be- wilderment in the woods — Fears — Unsatisfactory interview^— Hun- ger and weariness of the pony — Despondency — Hunger and fatigue — Hallooing for succor — Seeking a place to rest — Ascent into a tree — Passing several hours in the '*• 'L'liE first autumn of his residence at the mission, the doc- tor, having a patient afflicted with a threatening tumor, it became necessary that he should consult with his |ellow physician, Dr. Talmie, and for that purpose visited Fort Vancouver. Five days after, the man being pronounced out of danger. Dr. White stai-ted on his retiun. Passing the portage at the falls with little difficulty, with the assistance of the natives, he hastened on, ^exceedingly anxious to reach home, as his absence had already been of greater length than he had anticipated, and little Silas was in delicate health. As they passed rapidly forward, the crew in fine spirits, their attention was attracted by a couple of Indians on horseback, issuing from the woods on the right. The curly -headed negro pilot gave them a hearty salute, and on enquiry, the doctor learned that they were immediately from the mission, and that by land the distance T£X VKARS IN OREQOSf. 81 Was not as great as by the river, and might be made in half the time. The route was represented as plain and safe, and it required but little more information to induce the doc tor to endeavor to find his way home on horseback, and therefore accomplishing, with his tawny friends, the loan of a horse, and bidding his company adieu, he sat off filled with liigh hopes of reaching home and family that evening. The direction lay south-westerly, over a long range of high hills, ifi a tortuous, ancient Indian path, and he had n,ot pro' ueeded far, when he found now and then another shooting uff in nearly the same course. This was unexpected and seriously harrassing, and a little farther on this embarrass- ment was increased by the dry, fallen leaves obscuring the trail, till, at length, the traveller became totally imcertain whether or not he was in a trail ; and if so, whether it W9^ the right one. In complete bewilderment, he stopped and gazed almost hopelessly around, when, to his joy, he saw an Indian imi- ron, perhaps sixty years of age, advancmg towards hiin. He aceosted her, and enquired the way to Champoeg, the nearest point to the mission. She shook her head, not coin- prehending liis meaning, and articiilated a few words, by which her questioner was as much puzzled as she had been at his. He essayed a reply, but it was useless, as she could no more understand his Greek than he her Hebrew. After several fruitless attempts at conversation, met by her with suspicious shyness, they separated, the doctor regretting, and half vexed, that the interview should have proved so unsatisfactory. The shadows of night began to gather, and troubled thoughts to crowd before his mind. He went on, or rather groped his way along, till he emerged into a pr^- rie, when the poor, jaded pony was so much exhausted that w 82 TEN YEARS IK OltEOOM. his rider concluded to walk, vliich ho did for sevem) niileis, when weak with hunger as well as fatif^ue, he mounted' On again entering the woods, he once more dismounled, and led the horse, which much impeded his progress ; the tired creature was tormented by hunger, and stumbled along from side to side, snatching now and then a nibble from tho thick undergrowth. Intending to reach home that night, he had freed himself from all encumbrance, and was therefoic un- provided with blanket, gun, flint or food, and clothed in a li^v:ht summer suit, unfitted to protect liim from the penetra- ting night damps. He pushed on till dense darkness closed around him, and he vras no longer able to trace a path, and now became seriously alarmed, fearing that he %vas irretriev- ably lost in that vast wilderness, and if so, in what a miser- able condition — no food and no means for procuring it. Putting aside the thought as quickly as possible, he pressed manfully forward, till from weariness, darkness and gnawing hunger — Imving eaten nothing but a fcnv dried berries, which lie found still clinging to the busher, since morning — it was impossible to go farther. Then he hallooed with all his strength, and listened with straining ears for an answer, which he hoped might reach him from the settlement. ITie old forest reverberated, and the echoes went and returned, till he almost fancied he heard another voice. He repeated the cry, tliis time pitching his voice on a higher key, till it sounded most unearthly. This produced no diflferent effect, save the hoarse croak of a solitary bird in the mountain. He listened long and intently, but the low sough of the wind in the tall trees alone rewarded him, and he detcnmined, find- ing such efforts useless, to establish himself for the night. An old hollow tree would have been a welcome retreat, to protect him from the cold; but such a shelter he dare not TEN YEARS IN OREGOlf. •d it set, He in nd- :ht. to not seek, lest a stronger than he should before morning require it at his hand. So he fastened the jiony to the foot of a large tree and lefi it to its fate, and being a good clinilwr, mounted into tlic branches, drew the saddle after him, und placed it across one of the boughs, Avherc he placed liimstlf upon it, lashed his body as securely as possible to the limbs and trunk, and sat there as formally as though upon the back of his Bucepliclas. He then ciosscd his arms upon a branch, pillowed his Avearied head upon them, and half- stjvrved as he was, and in such a precarious situation, almost immediately dropped asleep. His dreams he did not remem- ber, and on waking, and judging from the time of day dawn he must have remained there about three hours, and from liaving so long sat in the same position, exposed to the cold, he was thoroughly chilled and benumbed. He descended with great difficulty, and when attempting by friction to re- store circulation to his arms, he found them more than the rest of his frame void of sensation. Fear of wild animals for some time deterred him from leaving the tree ; but he was convinced that if he remained in his present lodging, he must surely be chilled to death before morning, and cho-^e rather to secure even a doubtful chance of safety. He could not kindle a fire, but some means must be resorted to to se- cure himself from danger from beasts ; and he therefore groped about the ground, collecting brush and fern. He then threw himself down on the roots of a tree, and cov- ering his form with these materials, as with a blanket, with the useful saddle for a pillow, once more composed himself to rest. In a little while the sleeper was startled by the cry of some wild animal, probably of the wild-cat species, which continmed to echo round him io all directions, and a certain •^ 84 TSK ybjlrs rsr oregok. reflection connected with this did not tend to soothe his fears. He knew he must be some where in the vicmity of a spot, the scene of an anecdote he had often heard related by one of his nearest neighbors. This man stated that he had been attacked, in open day, by a dozen large wolves, and only escaped by clambering into the roots of a tree which Providence seemed to have thrown in his way, and with the contents of his gmi, killmg five of them. This was as credible as one half the hunter stories, told to wonder-seeking " verdant ones ;" and one thing is certain, that he then believed it quite as much as he did the next morning, with the light of the sun around him, and when morning come, which was Sabbath, probably entertained fewer scruples than ever before, with regard to Sunday travelling — this one in particular — and in due time placing the saddle upon his horse, which had remained \xa- harmed, again mounted. The trafl, as on the night previous, was very obscure, be- ing much obstructed by fallen timber, and his progress was slow. Eetween nine and ten o'clock he began to ascend a high hill, or rather mountain, and after an hoiir's struggling and panting up tha difficult steep, he began, from the at- mosphere, to suspect he was ncaring the Pacific Ocean in- stead of the settlement. This was not a pleasant reflection, M the Indians upon that part of the coast were particularly hostile and treacherous. For some time the bewildered man toiled on, seeing no end to difficulties, till by the appearance of the sim in the heavens he was convinced that he was go- ing in decidedly the wrong direction, and determined taking the orb for his giude to wheel about and retrace his steps if possible, and doing so, strange as it may seem, six hours liter found him upon the baoks of the Willamette, a short ^iiU'' TBN TEARS IN 0REG0I7. 85 1 a distance from the spot whence he sat out on his ill-starred journey. Here he stood after twenty-four hours, wandering in truly wo-begone plight, uncertain what course to pursue, as he might remain there for weeks and not a canoe pass, or meeting with any opportunity to reach home. Tlie pony was completely fatigued, utterly unable to bear him farther, and himself in little better condition, even had he known what direction to take. His cogitations were most painful, but he had indulged them but a brief space when far down the river he heard the faint stroke of a paddle. It was re- peated, and now the only anxiety was whether it was going from or coming towards him. A few moments, and a canoe rounded a point, and came directly towards him, and to his joy, he discovered its occupant to be one of his neighbors. Mrs. Bilake, a youth named Lucia, and an Indian crew. As they approached to within a very short distance, Mrs. B. till then scarcely recognizing the stranger, elevated both hands, and in broken English — for she was a half-breed — exclaimed " Cah masica chareo." " Is it you, my friend ?- where did you come from?-is it you, toctor ?" He replied to the good woman that if she would but give him a bite of something to eat she should know the v/hole. She raised both hands as before, and with a look of consternation, in- formed him that they had been absent from home a week, and expecting to reach home that evening, had eaten their laat remnant of food about half a mile below. Observing the petitioner's look of blank disappointment, which was very pitiable, she rcraarkcJ that her nephew had shot a duck just before, and enquired if he could eat it without any kind of seasoning. The doctor was a little surprised, not to say chagrined, at such a question at a moment that he could eagerly devour any thing that was eatable, and re- '■^«5 86 TEN TEARS IN OAEOOK. plied instanter, without considering the sex of his listener, " Why, yes, feathers and all !" She laughed merrily at the oddity of the expression, and said in her own language, " that is too bad, but I guess we can fix you something." Accordingly, the fowl was stripped, quartered, and prepa- red for the kettle ; and although the fire burned briskly, it was then, if ever, that the hungry man realised the truth of the trite saying, " A watched pot never boils." When it was done, he seized upon it, and never was duck despatched in less time by one person ; and it was a most delicious mor- sel, for it seemed but a morsel. While thus engaged, his kind friend prepared for him a bed in the canoe, and she af- terwards used to laugh as she told that his head had hardly touched the blanket pillow, ere he was snoring lustily. They arrived at her residence about midnight, and had hardly stepped inside the door, when she called a slave boy, and commanded him to catch up the race-horse immediately. Meanwhile she set before her visitor, milk, pork, potatoes and bread, and he had just finished a hasty repast, when the horse galloped into the yard. Mrs. Bilake then led him to the door, and with a tearful eye, and quivering lip, said, "Mrs. White is not far from frightened to death about you. I have ordered a good horse for you, do not spare him, re- turn to y>)nr family as fast as he can carry you." With a grateful heart ho mounted ; the gallant steed bounded off in the calm light of a full moon ; and about three o'clock ho anived at the mission, and enjoyed the happiness of embra- cing his family, who had become very much alarmed al his prolonged absence. ^^ TEN YKAKS IN OREOOK. 87 CHAPTER XI. Ladies' employmenfs — Hard Fare — Mr. Leslie's arrival, and also Mr. Perkins's — Close quarters — New house — Hearth — Wolves — Doctor White treed — Mrs. White's weapon — Cowardice of the animals— The two species of wolves— Anecdotes — Antelope hunt or "cir- cling" — Swarming — Marriage of Miss Johnson and Mr. Perkins — Winter rains — Missionary meeting — Political convention^Mr. Lee's return to the United States — Reasons — Missionary efforts at the Dalles — Revival at the mission — Startling report — Death of Mrs. Lee and her babe— Drowing of George — His former escape from death on the Seneca Lake — Mrs. Whitman's little girl drowned — Coincidence. During the summer the ladies divided their labors as follows: Miss Johnson taught the school, Mrs. Shepherd attended to the cutting, making, and repairing of the chil- dren's clothing. Mrs. White and Mrs. Lee were made over- seers of the cooking, and other 'domestic matters ; though the cooking was not very laborious or extensive, as the fare that season consisted of salt salmon, some pork, pea soup, and once a week bread, and as often butter. On the tenth of September, Mr. Leslie arrived at the mission with his wife and three interesting little daughters. Ho was accom- panied by Mr. Perkins, to whom Miss Johnson was be- trothed. There was some difficulty in accorauiodating the new comers, but tliey were obliged to enter the house with ihe old inmates, already numerous. This onlarg'jd the fam- ily to sixty members, and made Mrs. White anxious to re- move to their own house, which they did in a few days, al 88 TEN TEARS IM OREGOIT. though it was not in a fit condition for inhabitants. Thero was no chimney in it, and but roof enough to cover a bed ; a few loose boards for a floor, and one side was entirely un- enclosed. As nearly all their cooking utensils were yet at Fort Vancouver, they were obliged to boil the meat and potatoes in a tin kettle, in the open air. However, the chimney Avas soon built, and as there was no suitable stono within several miles, the hearth was made of clay and ashes, which, after drying, became measurably, though not per- fectly, hardened. But one of Mrs. White's greatest domes- tic privations was, that she could never wash her hearth, as in this coimtry ; for, even by sweeping, it would have to be removed every two or three months. In a few days the roof was completed, the house sided, and their dwelling made very comfortable. After this, their greatest annoyance was the howling of wolves about the house during the nights. This seemed particularly frightful, as they were in rather a lonely situa- tion, being at a mile's distance from any habitation, and the doctor was often absent. One night he left home to \nsit Mr. Shepherd, who was ill, and some of the sick mission children. At the time, Mrs. White was expecting his re- turn about seven o'clock, she suddenly heard a burst of pro- longed howls, in. all their infernal variety, from the fine bark of the young to the hoarse yell of the elder wolves. She ran to the door and found that they came from the direction in which she supposed her husband to be. In the most ab- solute terror, she besought the two hired men to fly to his rescue. They laughed at her fears, and endeavored to rea- son her to composure. But the horrid din continued, and fancying she also heard a faint cry, she was unable to ro- f^train her excited feelings, and snatching up a long pair of TBN TKARS IN OREGON. H cooper's compasses, she sallied out into the prairie, accom- panied by the men, armed with rifles. They ran swiftly, and in a few moments came near a large tree, around which were congregated a number of the monsters, in full chorus. At sight, the cowards retreated, and were soon beyond hearing, seemingly conscious of the approach of one possessing more lawful claim to their intended victim than themselves — sneaking off, apparently ashamed and crest fallen. The doctor descended from his retreat, as much panic stricken as his rescuers. This he did not deny. He informed them that he had sat out from the mission determined to face every danger, with the fortitude becoming a man. On first starting, he picked up a large stick, and as he walked along, Quixote-like, brandished it valiently, with thoughts that it would be quite as well for the wolves to keep at respectful distance, if they wished to preserve unbroken heads. But when one of the dastards came within six feet of him, and by its call gathered others to the pursuit, he dropped his stick, and plied his heels with admirable dexterity, till the tree offered its friendly shelter, when he hallooed for help with all the force of his lungs. But in spite of his fears, he could not help smiling, when, on descending from the branches, he met Mrs. White, bearing the formidable wea- pon, with which she might have done such good service, if the varmints had only been in less haste to be gone. The wolves of Oregon are divided into two classes : The prairie wolf is little larger than the common fox, somewhat resembling it, and is inoffensive, except in the destruction of poultry, pigs, and the young of herds. It is very common. The others are three or four times larger than this, and ap- parently altogether a different species. They are exceed- ingly voracious, and when banded together, in the nightsea- W^l m 90 TXM TEARS IM OREGON. son, fearfully formidable, often following herds of elk, wild horses, and buffaloes, as dogs do sheep in this country, sel- dom desisting till they have destroyed great numbers. One or two instances will serve to illustrate their indomitable per- severance : One of these creatures pursued a noble stag, till overcome by fright and fatigue, it sought refuge in the mission yard, where the boys were milking. Another time, a party of seventy men of the Hudson's Bay Company, Avere at ren- dezvous, when a large, beautiful deer fled into the camp, chased by a wolf, and actually hid its head between the knees of one of the men, as if trustingly imploring protec- tion. Its fear of the savage foe banishing its shyness of thehuman race. After the new arrivals, the old hive, as the mission house might be called, was too full for the convenience of its ten- ants, and sent forth several swarms hi the course of a few weeks. Mr. Beers occupied a new house; Mr. Leslie an- other ; leaving Mr. Whitcomb, and the families of Messrs. Lee and Shepherd, in sole possession of the mansion. Mr. Perkins and Miss Johnson were soon married. The wedding took place at Mr. Leslie's, and was a very precise and genteel aflfair. The new couple took up their residence with Mr. Leslie. Thus they were all finally settled snugly in their new homes. The community was now quite large, and its members would have derived much enjoyment fiom each other's society, had not the falling of winter rains al- most entii ely cut off neighborly intercourse. Although the summers are so delightful and salubrious, the winters are extremely irksome and disagreeable, not from the falling of deep snow, as in this state, but the continuous, soaking rains. i TBN YEAR8 IN OBSaON. 91 There were some circumstances, however, which served to make the time pass less tediously ; one of which was a mis- sionary meeting on Christmas, the first of the kind convened in the country. Although it was a wet day, and there was considerable of a freshet, there were many assembled, and two hundred and forty-three dollars subscribed for the cause. This may seem singulai', as there were so few inhabitants ; but their hearts were in it, and though enjoying little, save what was necessary for their comfort, each freely gave their mite ; some who used dried deer skins for window lights in- stead of glass, coming forward and contributing firom five to twenty dollars. However, do not let it be supposed, that these persons were really poverty stricken ; for you must remember, that they were far beyond the Rocky Mountains, where many of the conveniences, indeed, nearly all, could not be conveyed. They were not unable to purchase them, for many of them possessed herds and grains in considerable abundance. During the winter, there was a convention for getting up a petition to the United States Government to extend juris- diction over the colony. It is but just to say, that the re- sult of that movement, and all subsequent petitions, has been, as was predicted by some on that day, to draw upon Oregon hundreds of imigrants, many from the western fron- tier of the stales, of a restless, aspiring disposition, save that, in the spring of 1847, mails were for the first sent to that country at Government expense. It is to be regretted that govcrment has never taken any formal action to avail the colonists in the least, in their diffi- cult and dangerous position. Mr. Lynn's bill, proflfering a portion of land to each mail settler, has oscillated between bouse and senate the last six years, keeping the settlers in VN W«"«\W^' ' 99 TVN YBAKS IN ORKtiON. siisptMiBO boiweon hope and fear. But T am wandering, and must roturi) to tho Hpring of 18<')8. The rainy 8oa8on closing, pr('p.ara(ions woni made for Mr. Lec*8 return t<» the StiiU's, osUMtsihIy for a nMnforcomont, although 8uch a recruit came in the year previous. But there was territory enough to be occupieti by four times the number aln^idy thetv. However, thcni was another object in view in sending him out. It was the unanimous opinion that he had been long enough rusticated in the woods, and that it would be advisable for liim to retxirn home, if but for h short time, in the hope that comnungling once more with polished society, would result advantageously to himself and the mission, of which he was superintendent. A short time after his departure, Mr. Dainiel Lee and Mr. Perkins commenced missionary operations at the Dalles of U»e Columbia, nearly a hundred miles from Fort Vancouver. There the great reformation was effected, of which Mr. P<;r- kins gave such a glowing, melting description to the Amcr- ie«n public. There was also a revival of religion at the mis- sion, which for a time produced a happy change among the youth and American residents. Indeed, Mr. Lee's absence was an eventful period, for it now happened that Mr. Thom- aa J. Hubbard a second time sUirted for California for herds, with about twenty of the neighboring men, and in three weeks the news returned by Mr. La Fromboy, of the Hud- son's Bay Company, that they had been attacked by the Cheste Indians, and every one killed. The emotions of the families of the party may bo inuigined, but not described. An awful gloom spread over the colony. They hoped it might be a false report, and waited long for a relief to their anxiety, when one day they heard the firing of guns at some distance from the mission, on the opposite side of the river. pWi» ^ TBK TIAR8 IH OKCOOIT. 98 I'huy huHlHKtd in llic direction of the Mound, und to their infiiiitu joy found nearly all thu party they had foared wore nlain. 11u;y liud l>tten dufualcd hy the HavagoH, drivun out of thttir way, and wandorud about in thu niountuinu, some of Ihcm Huflering s<embark — Swift Cur- rent—Conversation — ^Disaster — Struggles for breath — Mr. Leslie's statement — Canoes — Conducted to the shore — The lifeless babe — Arrival at thi Fort — ^Reach the falls of the Willamette — Strangere — Unhappy night — Reach home — Letters. I BELIEVE that an account of Mrs. White's adventure on the Columbia river has beeu published, but perhaps it may now be interesting to some of my readers. When Mr. Per- kins went to the Dalles, his wife accompanied him ; and soon after Dr. W. received from him a letter, stating that she was dangerously ill, earnestly requesting himself and lady to come to them immediately. This threw them into some con- sternation, as he was unavoidably detained at home, and it was almost equally necessary that Mrs. W. should also re- main. :/, ^W There^in^ a meeting of the members of the mission, and, considciii% the peculiarly lonely situation of their friend, among a strange people, with, as he supposed, a dying wife, it was decided that Mrs. W. and Mr. Leslie should go, and Dr. Bailey in the doctor's stead. This was the first lime that the dq|||K|nd Mrs. White had been separated for any lengthy penMT, and as they said farewell, a sad presenti- ment of evil seemed burthcning their hearts. However, the voyagers reached their destination in safety, and remaining 96 TKM TXARS IN OBEGOK. till Mrs. p. was recovering, then sat out on their return, Dr^ Bailey staying behind. They reached the cascades without accident, and there en- camped. Here they found an extensive salmon ground, and on the banks of the river were hundreds of the natives, dry- ing and pulverising the fish for winter use. The next morning was rainy, and they were detained be- yond their usual hour for raising camp, and as Mrs. White had nothing to amuse herself about, she visited among the village, talked as well as she could with the women, and in- spected their labors. Here she saw the only instance of deserting old people to die, that she had ever witnessed, though she had often heard of the practice among cert^iji tribes. On a hill at some dis- tance from the village, she found several aged persons stretched upon the ground ; and by one poor creature par- ticularly, Mr. Leslie and herself stood with painful emo- tions. She lay upon the brow of the hill, within a foot of the verge, probably so placed that she might be out of the path, where a slight motion would precipitate her over the descent. A cold, drizzling rain descended upon her, and her only covering was a single small skin. A short distance from this place it was customer to make a portago of about three miles ; and they beflHB about eleven o'clock. ^V^ During the walk they visited a very curious burial place. This tribe disposed of their dead differently from any other with which the visitors were acquainted, placmg them in houses from eight to twelve feet square. ^^ite| yf^^e three or four of these huts, and they saw througllg^ aperatores between the barks, the bodies rolled in mats, and swung one above another. TEN TEARS IN ORECOK. 91 it On the ground, near one of the houses, half buried in leaves, Mrs. W. found a singular and beautifully carved war club, which she intended carrying away ; but Mr. Leslie in- terfered, declaring it would be highly imprudent to do so ; for, if any of the tribe discovered its absence, they would certainly suspect and pursue them ; so she was obliged to replace it, though with great reluctance. After they had travelled about two miles of the portage, they saw a couple of canoes launch into the river, and they yielded to the entreaties of the crew, who disliked cangring the baggage so far, confiding in their knowledge of the live)', and re-embarked. They were glad to do so, for they had traversed woods and rough surface, and with wet feet and fatigue were very tmcomfortable. Mrs. White in a few moments observed that they had gained the middle of the stream, and that the current was very rapid, and said to Mr. Leslie, " in case we upset, what shall we do ?" He replied cheerfully and promptly, " I can soon tell what / would do. I would cling to the canoe." "Well," sfud she, "how very helpless is a female with a babe," and the wdMs had scarce escaped her lips, when, from a slight swing of the canoe, which was heavily laden, and low in the water, possibly striking a rock, it filled and instaniiy went down." When the water came up round them, the child started convulsively in its mother's arms, and gave a piercing shriek, and Mr. Leslie exclaimed, " Oh God, we're lost!" When the canoe rose it was free from its burthen, and bottom upwLvrds, and Mrs. White found herself directly be- neath it, painfully endeavoring to extilcate herself, and en- during dreadful agony in her struggle for breath. Despur- ingly, she felt herself again sinking, and coming in contact 7 9d TEN YSARS IM OBSOON. with the limhe of a person in the water, the reflection flitted across her brain, " I have done with my labors for these poor Indians. Well, all will be over in a moment, but how will my poor mother feel, when she learns my awful fate ?" Mr. Leslie afterwards stated that he had no reeoUection till he rose, and strove to keep above water ; but again sank, utterly hopeless of succor. He rose again just as the canoe, pasung round a large rock, its prow was thrown within Iiis reach. He clutched it with eager joy, and supported him- self a moment, gasping for breath, when he suddenly thought of his fellow passenger, and the exclamation ran through his mind, *' wh^t will the doctor say ?" He in- stantly lowered himself in the water as far as possible, and still clinging, with one hand groped about as well as he was able, when, as providence would have it, he grasped her dress, and succeeded in riusing her to the surface. By this time the Indians, expert swimmers, had reached the canoe ; and with their assistance he supported his insenable burthen, and placed her head upon the botttnu, with her face just out of the water. After a few moments she gasped feebly, and opening her eyes, her first words were, " Oh, Mr. Les- lie, I've lost my child !" " Pray, do dismiss the thought," said he, ** and let us try to save ourselves." They were wafted a long way down the river, no prospect offering for thdr reh^. At length they espied, far ahead, the two canoes which had entered the river before them, oc- 4;upied, as it proved, by an Indian chief and his attendants. Mr. Leslie hallooed to them with all his remaining strength, and they hastened towards them, first stopping to pick up the trunks and a few other things, which had floated down stream. When at last they reached the sufferers, findii^g them so d a: tl 8( hi «n di re at wl mw TSARS IK oiuroo5r. 9d 60 mueh exhausted, the chief cautioned them to retain their hold, without in the least changing their position, while he towed them gently and carefully to the shore. Heito they rested, draining the water from their clothes, and Mr. Leslie from his head and stomach, for he had swallowed a vast quantity. In half an hour the Indians r^fated the canoe, which had been 4rawn on shore, and to their amazement, and almost terror, they foimd beneath it the dead babe, wrapped in its cloak, haying been kept m its place by the atmospheric pr^sure. Mr, Le^e was now unoertain what course to pursue, and asked hb companion's advice. She told him she was desi- rous of proceeding immediately to Fort Vancouver, as they had nothing to eat, no fire, and, in short, had lost so many of tiieir -effects, that they had nothing wherewith to make themselves comfortable, tf they remained there till even tiie oezt day. Their eanoe was a lai^ one, hekag about twenty feet vgt. length, and four in breadth, and was laden with a bed, bed- ding, mats, two large trunks of clothing, kettles aod dishes, and prolusions to last the ci,' . TIM TKARS IK ORBOOK. 1U>7 CHAPTER XIII. nineMof Mr. Shepherd— Surgical operation — Singalar impressioniof Mn. White— -Hia death — ^Benevolent aocietf— Visit to XaviePa — A Mothar** anguish— Burying alive— The drowned boy — Outline of Dr. Bailey'a history— John Tamer — ^A hermitage — ^Turner's bra* ▼ery— His aeclnsion. Soon after this unhappy disaster, occurred the death of Mr. Shepherd, ivho has before been mentioned, as one of the most useful and devoted members cf the mission. He went to Oregon, from Lynn, Massachusetts, in delicate health, being predisposed to the scrofula, having previously lost a sister by the complau ':. This, after two years' severe exposure in that new country, exhibited itself in a scrofulous knee joint. After a protracted and painful illness, endured with impar- alelled patience, from the acuteness of his suffermg, caused by the high state of inflammation in the affected joint, he besought Dr. White to remove the limb. This was done with all possible despatch, and notwithstanding it was " hope against hope," most of his friends looked forward to his re- covery. For fifteen or sixteen days, the operation afforded the anticipated relief, and all watched the symptoms in the beloved patient with a solicitude only second to that with which he had watched over the interests of the mbsion. But, alas! it was in vfun; for although he was better in many respects, it was discovered that a large abscess was forming, the discharge of which convinced them that he could not long survive. In a week from that time he expi- 'S 6 TIN TSARS IN ORBOON. pd, and his was a glorious death. " It seemed/' as one ^d who was present, " as though the house was full of waiting angels, and that an almost perceptible halo was shed around the death-bed. He continually exhorted the bystan- ders to patience and perseverance, and desired them not to forget to publish in the United States what delight he felt in this hour ; that he had embarked in the cause of Christ and missions. Some of the time it was supposed he was wandering ; for he was talking continually as tho^h in the presence of the Almighty, conversing familiarly as with an old friend. Once, while watching with him, he desired Mrs. White to get pen and paper, and write, while he dictated a letter to God. She did so, and wrote from his lips a long piece of very chaste and beautiful poetry, as though ema- nating from a soul filled with the most pure imaginings, and overflowing with love and reverence for a holy being. When she had finished, " now," said he, " fold and send it up." The scene originated in her mind very singular emo- tions ; she felt almost impressed, that by the departing spirit she might send to heaven some message to her seraph babe and dear Mrs. Lee, and even several times found herself on the point of doing so, and obliged to exercise Rome restraints to avoid it. When the moment of dissolution approached, the dying man extended both his emaciated hands, exclaim- ing — " All, all is peace ! peace ! Oh, what glory ! glory ! glory! We have victory through the lamb!" A person entering the room remarked, " why, surely, he is dying !" " Yes," said he, " I am dying, but dying to live again ! I shall soon be over Jordan !" And so Cyrus Shepherd died, universally lamented in Oregcm, though his friends were conscious he had entered into a " glorious rest." Allow me here to introduce an extract from the most TKH TBABB IIT ORKOOIT. 107 truthful work of Messrs. Lee 6c Frost, detaifing an account of this estimable man's sickness mid death : But the time has oome when we must part with a beloved brother and diifttingubhed fellow-laborer, Mr. Cyrus Shep* herd. He had " fought the good fight> finished his course, kept the faith.'* Sinee hb first engagement in the nussion, he had employed hunself in labors beyond his strength, and that, too, under a load of bodily infirmities which knew no permanent relief, but increased more and more till they ended in death. Our brother loved society, but he was happier in doing good. In labors he was abundant, endeavoring to do good in every way in hb power to all around him, whether whites or Indiuis. Often did he vbit the Indian lodge with food for the hungry and medicine for the sick For the children in the mbsion under hb care he felt a deep and abiding interest. To teach, to clothe, to feed, and to save them, soul and body, wus hb utmost derare ; and thb, with the blessed hope of hb own salvation, made him con- stantly " trample on pleasure and pain." By many of the early inhabittmts he will long be held in grateful remem- brance ; but those only who knew him from the first can place a just estimate upon hb character. Hb disease was the scrofula, and in the spring of 1838 it attacked hb knee. By recourse to medical treatment, however, the danger was averted, and for eighteen months some hopes were indulged that he would recover, ^ut on the commencement of the rainy season, i& the f&U of 18d9, the dbease forced him to take hift bed, whenj. aiter suffering greatly for about twenty days, it became necessary, as the only hope of saving hb life, to resort to the painful process of amputation. Thb was done December 11, by Dr. White, assisted by Dr. Bu- ley and Mr. Wilson. He endured all with remarkable pa- ^,» 108 TEN YEARS IN OREOON. 3 tience and resignation. " Through all his suflerings," said his sympathizing and excellent wife, in a letter of the 22d of December, " I have not heard a murmur to escape his lips ; but in his most trying hours, he could rejoice and ^g praises to God." An opportunity to forward the let- ter of which this is an extract not occurring till the 27th, he wrote me a few lines in the margin, the last his hand ever penned, which breathe the same spirit with that quoted above. Including all at the Dalls station, he says, Decem- ber 27th : "Dear brethren and sisters — ^Feeling a desire to say a few words to you this morning, Susan has kindly un- sealed her letter to favor my purpose. I am very feeble in body, and obliged to lie on my back from morning till night ; excepting of late I have been permitted to turn on my side, or to lie raised on my bed foi* a short season, to relieve the pain caused by lying in one position so long. But the doc- tor seems to think that even this, on the whole, is injurious, and discourages it. I have lain from midnight till ten o'clock, A. M., in the same position, and bear it very well. Dr. White has been very attentive indeed in my sickness, and has done all fully to satisfaction. All the brethren and sisters seem to take delight in exerting themselves to mani- fest their sympathy and kindness in every manner possible. I think no person under heaven ever was more kindly and faithfully attended than I have been during my sickness. Expressions of deep sympathy ar#''pouring in from every quarter. French, English, Americans, nor must I exclude the poor Indians, have given unequivocal expressions of their sympatLiuing love. I cannot say I think I shall get up from this bed whereon I am laid. Ood has dealt with me in a manner which it is impossible to describe to you. Such support, such removal of every care, the mind con- ""•^ TEN TEARS IN OREGON. 109 stantly far from every anxiotis thought, I could never have conceived to be possible. Under the most excru- ciating pain, when at every breath it seemed impossible !;o refrain from screeching as loud as my breath would bear, these varies were mingled with shouts of praise ! I would say to you, such has been the abundance of peace given, that &ot a rising of impatience or fretfulness, or a murmur or a complaint, has ever been felt by me during my sickness. Farewell ! The God of peace, grace, and consolation be with you continually." Signed, " A part of Cyrus." The stump of the amputated limb healed gradually, and strong hopes were entertamed that he would recover ; but they proved delusive, for an abscess formed in his hip which baf- fled medicine, and so rapidly wasted the powers of life, that on the ushering in of the new year, 1840, his happy spirit, *' disburthened of its load," mounted upward to the abode of bliss. But among the many mournful scenes, the missionaries had seasons of rest, and even pleasing amusements. Among others, it was proposed to organize a society for clothing the Indian women. Accordingly, the ladies met, and with char- acteristic generosity, subscribed to the amount of fifty dol- lars, which was expended at Fort Vancouver for baize and other articles for winter apparel. A request was circulated for the needy females to assemble at the house of lu!r. Beers. There were many present/^ and seated on their mats on the floor, plied their needles under the direction of their instruc- tresses. In this way they were employed for about the same number of hours that are similar societies in this coun- try. At supper time, the ladies partook of a meal prepared according to rule : that is, one kind of cake, bread, butter, and tea. A fire was kindled, and a quantity of potatoes ^- no TEir TBABS IK ORXGOK. P' roasted, of which the natives ate with much zest, for a greater treat could not have been offered them. After a number of pleasant meetings, during which the progression of the women in needle work was very gratifying to their benefactresses, a sufficient compliment of garments was com- pleted and distributed to make the wearers comfortable through the winter. One day the doctor and his family were visiting at Xavier's, a neighbor at some distance from the mission, and the conversation turned upon the custom of burying alive ; and their host related the following circum- stance : One day himself and family were disturbed while at din- ner by a trampling and loud wail, and on going to the door, saw borne by the corpse of a young woman, followed by a small group surrounding a mother weeping and mourning in gre&t grief. They passed on, but in a short time a young man rushed into the house, begging Xavier to go with him, saying, that they were burying a woman alive. He instantly hastened to the spot, but a short distance, and found the deed actually done. The explanation given him was, that on arriving at the grave, and depositing the body, the mother threw herself upon it, clasping her arms about the neck, and resolutely expressed her determination to be buried with it They refused to obey her wish, and represented to her how the nussionaries would view the act. " Oh, bury me," said she, "bury me! Why should liive? Is not my husband dead? Are not my children all gone? It is not well, let me die! Why should I live to be a slave to my kindred ? Let me die, let me go with my daughter to the spirit land of our fathers !" They endeavcred to force her from the grave, but she clung to her dead child, and they at last yielded to her will, and when Xavier reached the spot it feiC. ■ TEN TXABS IK OREGOH. Ill was too late to restore the mother too life, the vital spark had fled. He had scarcely concluded the relation when an Indian hunter came to the house, and informed the doctor that half a mile below, he had found the body of a white person among the driftwood, on the bank of the river. They hastened to the shore, and found the corpse of George, who I have before mentioned was drowned, though I believe I did not add the fact that his body w» not found in twenty days after. They had searched in ^ iin for him, and now a fresh tide of grief gushed over the hearts of the parents as they saw before them the bloated, disfigured remains ot their boy. A short time after thb, took place the marriage of Miss Smith and Dr. Bailey. The career of this gentleman had been rrther interesting. He was a native of England, of respectable parentage, and bred to the medical profession. He was acquainted with Sir Astley Cooper and Abemathy, and had witnessed some of their most interesting sui^ical operations. His associations had been among the bloods of London, and to this may be attributed the fact of liis contracting an insatiable thirst for spirituous liquors. Probably to break off these influences was the object of his mother and three sisters in removing to America. He accompanied them, but i^parently to no good results, for his course was as uninter- ruptedly dissipated as before. They remonstrated with him most feelingly, and solenmly reproved, without effect, till one morning, tLtxar an unusually severe rebuke from his mother, without her knowledge repaired to a ship and engaged on board as a common haad. A voyage round Cape Horn and into the Pacific, as far as California, was quite sufficient of sailor's duty for one so gently reared as he had be^u Ac- "■--t 112 TBK TXAR8 IN ORSOOK. cordingly, the first opportunity, as he expressed it, he took French leave, and for years -wandered ahout in California, among a people of loose, dissolute habits, and, judging from hints given by himself, made slow progress in the work of reform. A way opening, he. with several others, started for the Columbia river on a trapping excursion. Having selected no leader, and all aspiring to that honorable office, their journey was a continual scene of bickering and contention. At the first point of danger, when attacked by the Cheste Indians, they experienced all the evil eflfe'' .s arising from such an in- iquitous course, proving the truth of the saying, " a house divided against itself cannot stand," for in the contest most of the number were killed, four hundred miles from their destination. Baily himself was badly wounded. The sur- vivors having been robbed of every thing, wandered in the wilderness, suffering much from want of food, till at last they were obliged to slay their only remaining horse. After de- vouring the Emaciated carcass, for many days they subsisted on smuls and insects, just enough to fiustun life. When Baily arrived at the bank of the river opposite the mission, he was so weak and debilitated that he was unable to call for assistance ; but knowing that unless he reached the settlement he must perish, he attempted to swim the rapid current. He succeeded for a few rods, when he was obliged to return, and with great difficulty crawl^ upon the shore, with scarce breath or consciousness in bis wasted body. Fortunately, he was discovered and carried to the mission, where his reception and treatment were such as perhaps I had better leave him to record when he writes his own biography. From thence he went to Fort Vancouver, where, being under the surgeon's care, he recovered in a TEN TEARS IN OREGOK. lis few weeks. From this time he wandered about with ao employment save such as cutting and splitting rails, for two shillings per hundred, of which, as he had little strength, and less inclination for such pursuits, he soon wearied. At length he visited California a second time, in company with Mr. Young and his party, who went thither for cattle ; and it was after his return that Dr. White first saw him. His curiosity was roused by receiving from him a recipe, very neatly written, employing medical terms for the articles he wished to obtain ; and, in conversation with a gentleman he learned some of his history, and thought that, with pro- per encouragement, he might be induced to reform. He sent him an invitation to call on him, but he declined. He afterwards had an interview with him, in which he enquired what he purposed for the future. He replied very indef- initely, and the doctor proposed to him to enter his family for six months, and partially review his studies, to prepare himself again for practice in his profession. He was amazed, touched, and hardly knew how to answer, and left, promis- ing to see the doctor again. In a few days he accepted the proflFer. He was an educated man, soured by adversity, and bi- tingly sarcastic, and consequently was not a favorite among- the people ; indeed, had very few friends. At the end of six months, his modest, unassuming manners, and studious- ness had elevated him in the public estimation, and he pos- sessed its entire confidence as a skillful physician, which he proved himself to be. For the first time in seven years, he now wrote his mo- ther, informing her of his whereabouts, and promising to visit her as soon as possible. Soon after he made proposals to Miss Smith, and succeeded in obtaining her hand, and a 8 114 TEN TEARS IN OREGON. year subsequent made good his promise, and visited his mo- ther in the States, where they remained several months. He was afterwards elected one of the three executives in the government of the territory. One of Bailey's companions in his last expedition to Cali- fornia, was John Turner, a man who had been engaged in .:iome of the rashest adventures encountered in the last twcaty years. He was a man of singular genius, and some of his tales were very amusing. One little incident he sometimes related of his travels tm- der a government officer, in the western wilds of what is now the State of Missouri. Some sixty miles west of the near- est settlement, they came in sight of a log hut, having about it an appearance differing from the common Indian cabins. They entered it, and found there a man and woman, with several children, who were as sly and suspicious as the wild- est savages in the country. They at length gsuned their confidence, and learned that twenty years before, the man had become a fugitive from justice, and with his family fied to this solitude, where, for the whole length of time they had not seen a single face of their own color. They had in their possession garments which they had brought from the States, but they were so patched that it was literally impossible to distinguish their original color. They seemed happy, and evinced not the slightest desire to mingle again with their race, stating that from their long isolated residence, they were incapacitated for enjoying society. Turner was with Bailey, and was the means of saving the lives of the survivors of his party in their encounter with the Ohestes. This young Hercules, like Samson of jawbone memory, seized a large pine knot, and making such havoc among the copper colors, that be at last succeeded in diiv- TEN TXAKS IK OREOOIT. lis ing fhem off. A few years previous, he was associated witk Captain Smith and a trapping party of twenty, who were Attacked by a band of savages, and every man, excepting himself and Smith, killed. This old veteran afterwards turned hermit. Whether ia imitation of the one he saw in early life, I cannot say ; but with an Indian wife lives as secluded as possible^ at no small remove from the settlement 116 raw TKARS IN ORXOOR. I"" Fis*- CHAPTER XIV. Dapiel Lee's adventure— Visit from Mr. and Mrs. Beaver— English domestic — ^Visit from Dr. Whitman and Gov'nor and Mrs. McLaugh< lin — ^Modeof travelling— Mr. Hall and Lady— Party of the Hudson's Bajr Company— Intermarriage with the natives — Origin of the cus- tom'— Extract from Astoria — Return of Mrs. Lee — News — Effect- Oregon Institute — Agriculture — Mr. Lee's course on his first arrival in the country — Results — Exploring tour to the Umpqua country — Willamette Valley — Umpqua mountains — Difficult assent — A plan- tation — ^Polite reception — Retuirn — Meeting with an Indian party— Narrative of the Chief. I HAD nearly forgotton to notice an adventure of Mr. Daniel Lee's, .similar to one related in a former chr.pter. While he was at the Dalles, it became necessary for him to return to head quarters for provisions. In endeavoring to follow a trail, made a long time before by the Hudson's Bay Company, which had not been travelled of late, and was nearly obliterated, he strayed from it, and a journey which ghould have been made in four days, now occupied fifteen. This occasioned much anxiety and alarm, and a suitable party had collected to explore the wilderness in search of their lost friend, when he appeared among them, sufficiently wasted and haggard to warrant them in believing the talc he told of having had to subsist on horse flesh. About this time Dr. and Mrs. White received several visits from their friends, and among the first was one from Mr. and Mrs. Beaver. They came to Champoeg in canoes, and from thence on horseback ; and as they rode up to the door. I i^"-?- ;''f: Hffmf-'^\ ^f^^^lri''^ISnffKSif^c'i''*f'V JfllB" TBir TEARS IK ORBOOH. 117 Mrs. White could not help admiring Mr. B's beautiful horse, and his handsome accoutrements. Their attendants were English, and there were several exhibitions during their stay. They had been in the house but a short time, when Mrs. Beaver said to her hostess, "now, Mrs. White, if you have occasion for the services of another in your domestic matters, just call on John ; and if he does not obey you immediately, hit him a knock, that's the w ly I do." This was in the servant's presence, and Mrs. W. felt somewhat abashed, for he was a man of at least ninety years of age, and of much more than common stature. But she soon saw there was no cause for embarrassment, for, seemingly, he did not notice his mistress's language, and she could not avoid wondering how an American domestio woidd have borne it. They were much pleased with every thing around them, especially the indoor arrangements, as might be inferred from the lady's exclamation on first entering the house — " Why, Mrs. White," said she, " how nice this is ; it looks as though a white woman's hands had been here. This is the first White woman's house I have been in since my arrival in this country." They were highly intellectual people, and their stay was truly a "feiist of reason and a flow of soul." After this, Dr. Marcus Whitman, of the Presbyterian mission, at Waiilatpu, near Wallawalla, spent a few days with them. During his visit, Mr. Leslie sent out invitations for a little party, and the friends met together, and through the evening were agreeably entertained by his account of the affairs at his mission. They also received a visit from Dr. McLaughlin and his wife. The style in which they travelled was rather novel, bringing with them beds, bedding, tea, coffee, sugar, bread, 118 JBS YEARS IH (ttKOOK. cakes, oheese; and not even the wine was left behind. They were attended by a numerous suite, never forgetting the cook. The doctor's urbanity of manners, intelligence, and excellence of character, rendered his visits very agree- ftble. Mr. £. 0. Hall, and lady — who, it will be remembered, were referred to in Mrs. Smith's letter — also arrived, bring- ing with them a small printing press, a present from the Sandwich Islanders to the upper missim, and a man and woman who were very pious, and cheerful in rendering any ser^'ice which they could do most usefully. Their principal object in visiting the Columbia river, was to seek the benefit of Mrs. H's health, which was very delicate. She had not iox years been able to walk any distance. Mrs. White's im- pressions were very curious a^ she witnessed Mrs. Hall's singular entry into her house. Two Sandwich Islanders entered the house without speaking or knocking, bearing the sick lady in a mat litter, and deposited their burthen unceremonioiisly in the middle of the floor, from which she arose as unconcerned as though stepping from the little car- riage in which the ladies of the islands are usually drawn by a single attendant. After some weeks had expired, as Mrs. Hall's health was much improved, and her husband had in- structed the missionaries in the art of printing, they started for home, their departure much regretted by their enter- tainers. Perhaps my readers would be pleased to hear something more particular of the parties sent out by the Hudson's Bay Company, as they have so often been mentioned. One of these pardes passed through the settlement about the time of Mr. Hall's visit, and the manner of their procedures will illustrate the general custom. They start in the spring for i^^'V'^4:P^^^^!9^^>i^M^^^:^Mt^^ «;J ! J ' JH^WWg' ' Kffgf TBN TKARS IV OREO OK. 119 \ California, carrying with them merchandise and English goods, for harter with the natives, and return, laden with furs, principally of the beaver and otter. This company, just before entering the settlement, which was early in the morning, stopped to remove from their persons stains and traces of travel, and dress themselves carefully ui their best attire. They then formed themselves in Indian file, led by Mr. La Fromboy, the chief of the party. Next him rode his wife, a native woman, astride — as is common with the females — upon her pony, quite picturesquely clad. She wore a man's hat, with long black feathers fastened in front, and drooping behind very gracefully. Her short dress was of rich broadcloth, leggins beautifully embroidered with gay beads, and fringed with tiny bells, whose delicate, mu- sical tinkling, could be heard at several hundred yards dis- tance. Next, the clerk and his wife, much in the same manner; and so on to the officers of less importance, and the men ; and finally the boys, driving the pack horses, with bb?es of furs, one hundred and eighty punds to each animal. The txampling of the fast- walking horses, the silvery tinkling of the small bells, rich, handsome dresses, and fine appear- ance of the riders, whose nimiber amounted to sixty or sev- enty. The array was really patriarchal, and had quite an imposing appearance. It is customary for the members of the party to take unto themselves Indian wives. It is their policy, considered by them necessary to conciliate the good will of the tribes. The officers set the example, and have ever encouraged the men to follow it, each taking to be his wife the daughter of a chief, whose grade corresponded with his own. For in- stance. Governor McLaughlin, and Mr. James Douglas, hold- ing the highest offices in the company, selected the daugh- ■M ■■•'-■ sSs***" 120 TEN Y::AR8 IK OREGON. ters of the first chiefs of the most important tribes in the country. The gentlemen arc at great pains to educate their wives and children, and they often become refined, pleasing, and engaging in their manners. The custom did not, however, originate with the Hudson's Bay Company, for one of the first accounts we have of a marriage of this kind, was that of McDougal, of the Astor Company, with the daughter of the one-eyed chief, Comcomly, " who held sway over the fishing tribe of the Chenooks, and had long supplied the factory with smelts and sturgeons." The following is a brief relation of the affair from Wash- ington Irving's " Astoria :" " Some accounts give rather a romantic origin to this affair, tracing it to the stormy night when McDougal, in the course of an exploring expedition, was driven by stress of weather, to seek shelter in the royal abode of Comcomly. Then and there he was first struck with the charms of this piscatory princess, as she exerted herself to entertain her father's guest. The " Journal of Astoria," however, which was kept under his own eye, records this union as a high state alliance, and a great stroke of policy. The factory had to depend in a great measure on the Chenooks for provis- ions. They were at present friendly, but it was to be feared they would prove otherwise, should they discover the weak- ness and exigencies of the post, and the intention of abtm- doning the country. This alliance, therefore, would infalli- bly rivet Comcomly to the interests of the Astorians, and with him the powerful tribe of the Chenooks. Be this as it may, and it is hard to fathom the real policy of governors and princes, McDougal despatched two of the clerks as em- bassadors extraordinary, to wait upon the one-eyed chieftain, W4^C ^^i0iLsi •■!.■ :/--> Ktr v>,::',fi^T>f^^%^'f:^-f('?P^W^fS^^'^:,^^W: '-. ^Vrvip TBK TEARS IK Oft&OOK. 121 and make overtures for the hand of his daughter. The Chenooks, though not a very refined nation, have notions that w^ould not disgrace the most refined sticklers for settle- ment and pin money. The suitor repairs not to the bower of his mistress, but to her father's lodge, and throws down a present at his feet. His wishes are then disclosed by some discreet friend, employed by him for the lurpose. If the suitor and his present find favor in the eyes of the father, he breaks the matter to his daughter, and inquires into the state of her inclinations. Should her answer be favorable, the suit is accepted, anr . the lover has to make further pres- ents to the father, of horses, canoes, and other valuables, according to the beauty and merits of the bride ; looV mg forward to a return in kind whenever they shall go to house keeping. The shrewdness of Comcomly was never exerted more adroitly than on this occasion. He was a great friend of McDougal, and pleased at the idea of having so distin- guished a son-in-law ; but so favorable an opportunity of benefitting his own fortune was not likely to occur a second time, and he determined to make the most of it. Accord- ingly, the negotiation was protracted with true diplomatic skill. Conference after conference was held with the two ambas- sadors. Comcomly was extravagant in his terms ; rating the charms of his daughter at the highest price, and, indeed, she is represented as having the flattest, most aristocratical head in the tribe. At length the preliminaries were* all happily adjusted. On the 20th of July, early in the after- noon, a squadron of canoes crossed from the village of the Chenooks, bearing the royal family of Comcomly, and all his court. That worthy sachem landed in princely state, ari'ay- ed in a bright blue blanket, Avitli an extra quantity of paint . •.■4W" I JT^^^^.HJTf WW '-Prf-^: 122 TEN TEARS IN OREGON. and feathers, attended by a train of half-naked warriors and nobles. A house was in waiting to receive the princess, who was mounted behind one of the clerks, and was thus con- veyed, coy but compliant, to the fortress. Here she was re- ceived with devout, though decent joy, by her expecting bridegroom. Her bridal adornments it is true, at first caused some little dismay, having painted and adorned her- self according? to the Chenook toilet ; by dint however of co- pious ablutions, she was freed from all adventitious tint and fragrance, and entered into the nuptial state, the cleanest princess that had ever been known of the somewhat unctu- ous tribe of Chenooks. From that time forward, Comcomly was a daily visitor at the fort, and was admitted into the most intimate councils of his son-in-law. He took an interest in every thing that was going forward, but was particularly frequent in his visits to the blacksmith's sLop, tasking the labors of the artificer in iron for every kind of weapon and implement suited to the savage state, insomuch that the necessary business of the factory was often postponed to attend to his requisitions. Comcomly was very proud of his son-in-law, till McDougal so traitorously gave to Black, an English commander, the possession of the fort, after which event the old chief would say but little about him, excepting that his daughter thought she had married a great brave, but she was mistaken, for he was nothing but a squaw." Mr. Lee returned to the United States in the spring of 1840, after en absence of two years. A fine hospital had just been completed, and every preparation made for the ac- commodation of the large, expected reinforcement. Al though he was expected, he managed to come upon them by surprise. As soon as he arrived at the mouth of the Co- ^Ww..' '■V#fi [y>m ;^'«>iSi;i*itf»,r^! 'i^V^i^^-^ I TEV TEARS IN OREGON. 128 lumbia, early in June, he left the vessel, and with an Indian express, travelling in advance of every intelligence, reached the house of Dr. White one morning at an early hour. He remamed with them but a few moments, and went on to the mission, leaving behind a list of the party he had brought with him. At the head they found the names of Mr. and Mrs. Jason Lee, the first intimation they had had of his sec- ond marriage. It was so entirely imlooked for, that they were as if thunder-struck; the news of Mrs. Lee's dcaih had been sent on to him, and they had often looked forward with dread and son'ow to the time when he should return to the home which the death of his beloved wife had left deso- late. But sympathy was needless, for to him her place was already filled by another. Such was the grief, and attach- ment to their deceased sister, of the whole mission, that on the first day of his arrival none had the heart to ask a single question about his new wife, nor did he once refer to her. The next day he invited Dr. White to accompany him to Fort Vancouver to meet the reinforcement. In compliance with the superintendent's request, they were all convened at seven o'clock in the evening, when they received their ap- pointments, and listened to a few remarks from him, after which the doctor addressed them, giving an accoimt of the deaths, revivals, reformations, etc., at the Dalles and Willa- mette, all of which seemed much to interest them. ' In turn, he was much pleased with the neat and respectable appear- ance of his auditors. Having been for three years so com- pletely isolated from the fashionable world, the new modes and fashions which they brought with them struck him very i)leasantly, and he thought that so large a party, and of such a cast, reflected honor on the American churches, and told favorably for their sentiments on the subject of missions. It ■ J'-*-,3t»«..-«*a,i^.,,_ v^ r 'ItKi. 124 TEN YEARS IN OREGON. seemed really like the arrival of the pilgrim fathers in New England ; and it may be inquired, if their influence was any thing like what the fat'iers' would have been. The mission influence, for a time, wa3 deeply felt in the colony, and through it was laid a broad basis for the promotion of civil- ization and literature. Churches and mills were erected, herds introduced, farms enlarged, and the Oregon Institute built. This building was a noble edifice, one hundred feet by ninety-four, and contained four stories. It was estab- lished for the instruction of the children of the colony, who came in numbers from all parts. The school was well taught and conducted, and examinations and exhibitions were held there which would perhaps have done honor to many of the popular academies of this country. This was not the only school in the colony, there were several others ; but this was carried on on a more extensive plan, and was a valuable ac- quisition to the country. But to return. There W3re fifty-two members of the new recruit, and the following is the disposition which was made of them. Dr. Richmond and lady, without being gratified with a sight of the old mission at the Willamette, were sent off to Nesqually, a hundred miles north of the Columbia, and Mr. Frost and lady to the mouth of the river. Dr. Bab- cock and family, and Mr. Brewer, were despatched to the assistance of Lee and Perkins, at the Dalles. The residue were conveyed to the mission, to be afterwards distributed as should be deemed advisable. The nearest Methodist station to the old mission, in the upper country, was at the Dalles. This was strictly an Indian mission, conducted on much the same principle that were those of Dr. Whitman and his as- sociates. Here, as among them, a school for the natives was established, Mr. Brewer also opening farms for them as well iA>it,im»ym^ii'< TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 123 as for the missionaries. This had also been done success- fully by the other denomination, resulting beneficially to the natives, as will be seen hereafter. Too much can hardly be said in praise of the Presbyterian missions, for their efforts in behalf of the Indians, in which they were indefatigable. Mr. Lee's object seemed principally to introduce a better state of things among the white settlers, which, to a great degree, succeeded. He had originally been sent out to labor among the Flathead Indians, and passing through the coun- try, leaving them far to the right, went on to the Velllamette, intending to spend there a winter before proceeding to his destination. Ho found the mild, equable climate, and soci- ety, though small, of whites, more congenial to his habits than any thing he could expect in the section to which he had been sent. Thinking that he discovered signs of the colony becoming an extensive and valuable field of useful- ness, and that, for various reasons, the Flatheads had less claim for missionary efiforts than had been supposed, he de- termined to assume the responsibility and commence a mis- sion on the Willamette. He directed its principal energies to bear for the promotion of the interests of the white pop- ulation, the result of which have been seen in the erection of mills, etc., and through this influence also a perfect form of provisional government has been established and enforced for years. My readers may have often heard of Mr. Hines and lady, who have of late returned from Oregon by way of China, and who have written many interesting letters, es- pecially of the missions in the Celestial Empire. They were with the last mentioned reinforcement, and assigned a station at Umpqua, one hundred and forty miles south. The follow- ing August, Mr. Lee, Mr. Hine, and Dr. White sat out on an exploring tour, for a suitable spot for a station. They trav- >.'i.'>li^jiMViAk^W'UA;^4A^ 126 TBN TKARS: ITSf OREGON. elled on horseback, vith a single attendant, and two horses laden with their blankets, provisions, etc. In two days they reached the Upper end of the Willamette valley, the whole of which they had never before travelled, and as all others have been, were delighted with its lovely scenery, and gen- eral fertility of the soil. As no hunters had visited the val- ley for some time, they found fresh signs of the beaver, and otter, numerous flocks of wild fowl, and herds of deer were scampering, all hours of the day, over the beautiful plains. They pushed on for the Umpqua fort, about sixty miles from the coast. As they left the valley, the travelling for some distance was very pleasant, the country being gently undu- lating ; but it became more and more hilly, with a greater proportion of timber, until they arrived at the Umpqua moimtains. They saw many, what they considered, would be very desirable locations for settlers, fine water privileges, large plains well grassed, and good, tillable soil. Near the foot, and in the spurs of the mountains, they saw the cedars, of Lebanon, as they jocosely pronounced them, being the largest they had seen or read of any where, except in Solo- mon's allusions. A faithful delineation of the size and beauty of the tree might actually jeopardize the reputation of the writer for truthfulness, and it would not therefore be advi- sable to attempt one. They were appalled at the general features and rugged- ness of the moxmtain they were to climb, and somewhat du- bious of their ability to conquer the ascent. But they pressed on with the conviction that " faint heart never won," etc., might be applied to more than one kind of underta- king, and clambered perseveringly over fallen timber and nigged steeps, hardly daring to look ahead, fearing to S6e greater difficulties and entanglements. At length they canoe lA^'fe^j^^si^l TEX TEARS IN' OREGOIT. 12T to a narrow ledge, which they traversed with cautious steps, and had passed the most dangerous part, when their guide pointed out to them the place where a horse of the Hud- son's Bay Company had fallen some seventy feet and been dashed to atoms. This somewhat hastened the pace of the travellers. An hour more and they were at the top of the mountain, when, to the amusement of his companions, Mr. Hines rose in his stirrups, and raising his hand, said, in a very earnest manner, " my wife never climbs this mountain ;** and she never did, for it was too difficult a task for a lady to en- counter. The descent was less arduous, and when they were about half way down, from an open ground, they saw in the val- ley beneath a little plantation, with a picket enclosure, and a neat dwelling and outhouses. They were astonished at find- ing such a gem in so isolated a spot, surrounded by the most savage scenery of nature, and naught but Indian inhabitants a hundred miles around. They found it tenanted by a French- man, stationed there by the Hudson's Bay Company, living in comparative comfort, raising considerable com and vege- tables. With true French suavity he welcomed his visitors with great demonstrations of joy, and making a thousand apologies that he had no better fare to offer such important personages, as he chose to call them. They spent two days with him, when circumstances no longer permitting the doc- tor's stay from home, he started on his return, leaving Mr. Lee and Hines to prosecute their investigations, which they did to the coast. An account of this was afterwards pub- lished, including a merrj" relation of their council with the Indians ; and the fall of their pack horse, provisions and all, from a height of forty feet, into the river. Dr. White was accompanied by an Indian boy, who had m. 128 TKN TEARS IK OREGON. been a slave, captured in warfare when about ten years old, by the Umpquas, from the Chestes, remaining with them for years, imtil purchased by one of the Hudson's Bay Company, who afterwards settled in the Willamette. Here the doctor found him, and bought his freedom, and the youth accom- panied him on this as well as other excursions, and was a valuable assistant, being an expert rider and remarkably trusty for one of his race. They retraced their lonely way over the mountain without any occurrence worthy of men- tioning, till they found an encampment for the night. They built a fire beside a log and stretched themselves on the ground ; but the doctor could not drive from his mind the idea that he was a hundred miles fiom any of his own race, and in the midst of, for aught he knew, hostile tribes, and it dissipated the repose his weary form so much cov- eted. About sunrise, they were aroused by a light, quick tread, and, to their alarm, discovered advancing towards them, on the last night's trail, a half dozen well armed Indi- ans. Springing to thier feet, they grasped the guns which lay beside them, and stood on their guard ; but soon saw there was no occasion for apprehensions, for the leader came forward, trailing his weapon, and proffered his hand with the grace of a well-bred Frenchman. His companions fol- lowed his example, and then quietly seated themselves on the ground. They said they had heard the missionaries were in the country, seeking for a place to settle ; that they were glad, and had come to seek and welcome them, but being unable to find them, had discovered the trail the day before and followed it. After some conversation the chief gave a slight history of the last six years of his life. A large party of the Hud- son's Bay Company, passing through the country on their # ^ ' \ s^-j;:;.ig^>;g^:»fs^^?^^ TXK YBARS IN ORBOOK. 129 way to CiUifornia, persuaded him to go with them on a hunting and trapping excurson to that country. He gave a very just description of the chaifjlbter of the company, light, gay, frivolous, and sometimes jHrofuie. One ody of the party differed widely from the rest. This one the chief ob- served, at the close of each day's journey, to retire to a dis* tance from the camp, and kneel in an attitude of deep devo* tion, for some length of time. This, with his cakn, consist' ent demeanor, impressed the son of the forest so forcibly, that he begged and received permission to accompany him, and there listened to the devoted prayers and pious instruc- tions of the good man ; and it was followed by good results, for he learned of God, His ^p, and the Holy Spirit. He longed for the time to come when he should return to his m p home, for he wished to communicate to his people his lately acquired knowledge of a religion which had imparted to his spirit a new and delicious enjoyment. At his strange revelations they were amazed, and, like a " little leaven leavening a whole lump," t|M| work began, and spread among them, and, for a time, a forcible change was perceivable In the whole tribe. But gradually, as it often is in other countries, one by one they lost their first impres- sions, till, as he expressed it, pointing to his little number, "all but these have left me, and the good and the right way." Tears rolled down his cheeks, and grief was visibly portrayed on his dark face. " I've told them all I know, and many times, till they have become tired, and now my heart jumps within me that the missionaries are coming to give tliem more knowledge, and make again God's love to sliine in their hearts." Their listener told them all he knew of Mr. Lee's purpo- # 'scs, and invited them to visit the mission. 9 When the time >■ ^■«fe.. 130 TBX ITKARS IV ORBOOV. for separation arrived, the little company knelt in prayer to their Great Father, and the doctor observed with interest the humble, devoted beari% of his visitors, and their emo- tions, as they listened to the words of supplication. He also, for the first, discovered they were Catholics, by their cros* »ing themselves repeatedly and devoutly. Himself and his companions left the place, and always remembered it as a hallowed spot, consecrated by the impressive scene they had witnessed. m 9 1^' .^. TBM YEARS IN ORIGOK. 131 ''^#- CHAPTER XV. Difficulty with Mr. Lee — Extract from a report of the board of mia- sions'— Embarcation — Delightful voyage to the Islanda— Danger —•Mrs. W's concem>^The pilot again — ^Viaitora— Eixploring aqnad- ron — Pic-nic — Embark for the United State»— PaBsengera— Mr. Diell'a death — Social parties— Hailing a vessel— Aarrival in port- Bennett's express. Soon after this expedition, arose a difficulty between tSt. Lee and Dr. White, which was the cause of the doctor's re- turn home. It is not worth while to give the particulars ; suffice it, that the difference was an honest one, in relation to the best waj and means of carrying forward the objects of the mission. This small matter, as is unfortunately often the case, gave rise to other disagreements, in which, not only sentiment, but feeling was enlisted. Dr. White re- signed ; and thinking it the most honorable course he could pursue, under the circumstances, resolved, in a written cor- respondence with Mr. Lee, to state his reasons for so doing ; and then, with the replies, coming and laying it before the board of missions. The proceeding was right, had the cor- respondence been carried on with a little more moderation, and less bitterness of spirit. The decision of the board will be seen in the following extract from the twenty-seventh annual report : "The first despatches from this mission, after the arrival of the great reinforcement, were brought in the ship Lau- sanne, and received by the board in April, 1841. Dr. Bli- ■:w>t. 132 TEX rCARS IN OUKQOS, 'f jah White, who had returned to this country in the same ressel, presented himself before the board at its regular meet- ing, held on the twenty -firi^ of the same month, and made a verbal communication. From his remarks, and the de- spatches of the superintendent, it appeared that after a most unpleasant and excited controversy between himself and Mr. Jason Lee, he had been induced to resign his office as phy- sician to the mission. After hearing Dr. White in his de- fence, the board disapproved of his leaving the mission with- out their consent, but directed the treasurer to settle his ac- counts. Letters were subsequently received from Messrs, Kone and Richmond, and also signed by several lay -mem- bers of the mission, all of which indicated dissatisfaction with their circumstances, and more or less, with the super- intendent, • * * • * At a regular meeting, held July 17, 1843, the board re- newed the recommendation of the bishop, either to appomt m, agent, or to supersede Mr. Lee by a new superintendent. The bbhop preferred the latter course, and at their regular mieeting in the following September, informed the board, that he had appointed Rev. George Gary, oi the Black Rivei- Conference, to the superintendency of the Oregon mis- sion. This annoiincement was received by the most decided expressions of gratification." And so ended the affair, whlcli, pakful as it was, did not greatly involve the moral character of either party. Hav- iipg. resigned, and the correspondence being ended, the doe- tw» with his family, embarked in the brig Maryland, Capt. Couch, for the Sandwich Islands. And now for prospects aod dreams of home, after four years' residence in the far wiWt. They had a delightful run, with smooth seas and fair winda^ not a storm or a calm, and arrived at the Island» ff V u TEN TBXRS ITS OREGON. 13.1 n r- e- ai It. sr 4» sk B- V' c- after the iinusually short passage of eighteen days, both officers and crew exerting themselves to render it as pleas- ant and agreeable as possible. Mrs. White was troubled and unhappy the afternoon and evening before they anchored. She remembered the ap^ pearanco of the coast, and was confident, that at the velocity with which they were sailing, from seven to nine knots an hour, they would soon be on the rocks. Neither the captain or officers had ever before been at the islands, and seemed at a loss to determine their position, for they frequently de« scended to the cabin/ and looked anxiously over the chart. She had just been reading of the wreck of a vessel on this very coast, and knew by the deportment of the captain with whom they had first sailed, that great caution should be ob- served in approaching it. Though the doctor and other pas- sengers slept in unconscious security, s!ie could not rest; and though the night was pitchy dark, stood on the stairs of the companionway, in her night dress, wrapped in a shawl, removing her cap from her head, that the men might not distinguish her in the dim light of the lamps, alive with fear that every moment the vessel would strike on the reef they were nearing. As the hours sped by, her apprehen- sions increased, unUl about eleven o'clock, when, as if to ren- der their destruction inevitable, the captain descended and turned in. Afrer a few moments, Mr. Killbum, the mate, came down in haste, and her fears were confirmed, as she heard him exclaim, " I'll be d— d if we are not already un- der the rocks!" They immediately cast anchor, and the watcher retired to repose, with a light heart, rejoicing that their frightful peril had been discovered in time to prevent a fatal catastrophe. In the morning, it was found that they were only at a dis- -* * 134 TEN YEARS IN OREGON. taiice of a few hundred yards from the black rocks on the coast. Mrs. White acquainted them with her anxious wait- ing in the companionway, which, as the danger was passed, caused a hearty laugh, and Mr. Kilbum remarked, "yes, he saw her uair flying in the wind, just as he went to call the captain, and he supposed her terrors caused her to for- get her Intended concealment." Immediately after breakfast they saw their old white- headed friend, the pilot, putting out to them in his little boat, and they received him with joy and satisfaction ; it seemed almost like greeting a father, so much had his kindness en- deared him to them. From him they learned the presence of the exploring squadron at the islands, on their way to Oregon. They were soon moored safely in the harbor of Honolulu, where they were visited by Rev. Messrs. Smith and Armstrong, and were invited to accompany them home. After visiting some time among their friends, they took lodgings with Mr. E. O. Ha'l. Our friends enjoyed many pleasant calls and visits from Commodore Wilkes and Captain Hudson, who were not more gratified at hearing intelligence from Oi'egon, than were they at receiving comparatltrely fresh news from the United States. Duruig the stay of Dr. White and family at the islands, the gentlemen of the squadrcm gave a pic nic party, some three or four miles out of town, on a beautiful plain, to which was invited all the missionaries, American and Eng- lish consuls, and their ladies, and finally, all the principal foreign inhabitants. It was a social, convivial occasion, and rather a costly affair, as probably not less than eight or nine hundred dollars were expended by the officers. The colla- tion was bountiful, and composed of all sorts of meats, dress- * ;.*'. TStr TSARS IN OREGON. 185 h) cd in all sorts of styles ; various fruits, both preserved and green ; cakes, nuts, and wines in every variety. The feast was spread on long tables, laid under a tent of the stars and stripes. Dr. White now negotiated with Captain Spaulding, of Salem, Mass., for a passage to the States, on board the Lau sanne, lying in the harbor. There were on board, besides himself and family, 3^y. John Deill, chaplain at Honolulu, lady and four children ; Captain Couch, Lieutenant Pinkney , of the American squadron. Midshipman Lewis, and Miss Mary Smith, who had been on a visit to her brother at the islands, and Mr. Grimes, who sailed with them from the States. The gentlemanly captain made ample provision for his passengers, furnishing himself with live stock, so that they had fresh meat twice a week till their arrival in New York. Mr. Deill being in delicate health, was provided by the munificence of the gentlemen of the islands with every ac- commodation, and with six hundred and forty dollars for his expenses. They sailed late in November — the same day that the squadron sailed for Oregon. Their adieus were made with much regret, as they had for weeks been associated with the officers in pleasant scenes and enjoyments. It is unnecessary to give a lengthy description of the voyage, as it was much like the first, save being less tedious. It was uninterruptedly pleasant, with a single exception. Mr. Deill's health continued to decline — ^that insidious, fatal disease, a consumption, preying upon his feeble frame till ho];'o of life was gone. It was at sunset of a lovely day, when they were in 40° south latitude, that he died. He talk- ed in faint whispers the whole day, calling each member of ^• 186 TEN TEAKS IN OREGON. his family to his bedside, and cheerfully conversing with them. He then requested the presence of the .^ptain and each of the passengers, and described to them in glowing language his happiness in view of his approaching change, earnestly beseeching them to prepare for their hour of dis- solution. When he expired, his countenance evinced perfect peace, and he was apparently in full possession of his mental powers. Probably no man ever resided at the Sandwich Islands, more respected and esteemed. Hie next day, in compliance with his oft-repeated request. Dr. White made a post-mortem extunination, and found the left lobe of the lungs entirely destroyed, and the right tv^o-thirds oblitw- ated, and the rerJdue in an extremely tubercleous state, giv- ing full evidence that no one, except of his calm, quiet tem- perament, could have survived such a length of time. The hour of interment arrived, and with feelings of deep solem- nity, the orew and passengers congregated to witness the last rites. The captain read the service witii much emotion, and at the propw mom^it the plank was raised, and the beloved dead sank from sight into the deep blue waters. When she heard the slight splash of the coffin, as it struck the wave, poor Mrs. Deill swooned, and was conveyed to the cabin, followed by the tenderest sympathies 'A. all. They had no boisterous weather at the Cape, but were wafted swiftly nod steadily around, and were oaee more in the broad Atlantic. The time on board passed very agree- ably. They enjoyed delightful promenandes and pleasant chats ; and <^ten of an evening, the captun, or ' h' ^x'''ted by the Indian boys — ^Re^ch Bof- fiilo— Milan— Travel vie nbus to St. Louis — Reception — Wil- liam Sublet— Kind receptioj .:i Independence — Anxieties — Meeting of the emigration — Resolutions. As our business is with Dr. White's adventures in Oregon, perhaps it will be well to pass over the year he now spent in the States, and give the circumstance which led to his return to Oregon. At the expiration of the year, he had oc- casion to visit New York on business. When about leaving for home, he called to bid adieu to Mr. Fry, a particular friend. After chatting awhile, he rose to take his leave, when Mr. F. suddenly exclaimed, "doctor, you are wanted in Washington." Surprised at the singular- ity of the expression, the doctor asked an explanation, and received for answer tne same, and again the third time. "Why, sir," said the doctor, "I cannot comprehend your meaning, but there are three things certain ; I have no bu- smess at Washington, no friends, and do not happen to have with me the funds requisite for the journey." Without a word, Mr. F. drew out his purse, and handed him bills to a sufficient amount to defray his expenses ; and then explained, that there was business in relation to Orecfon matters being i TEN TEARS IN OREGON. 139 transacted at the capital, where his services might be useful and acceptable. After some reflection, the doctor concluded to accept the proposition, and was that evening presented to Mr. Alfred Benson, and the eldest son of Daniel Webster, from whom he received letters to Mr. Webster, President Tyler, and Mr. Upsher. He arrived in Washington the 25th of January, and met with a kind reception from Mr. Lynn, John C. Spencer, and other heads of departments He spent a few pleasant days in the city, and unexpect- edly received the commission of agent of Indian affairs, from the secretary of war, under the direction of the president. He started for home, and on his arrival in Auburn, about thirty miles from Lansing, was met by a messenger, with the sad tidings that his youngest child, a sweet little girl of three years, was dead. Thus, while he had been happily engaged in his pursuits at Washington, his home had been overshadowed with the heavy cloud of grief, and the hearts of its dear inmates stricken with anguish. They felt their loss deeply, but none seemed to mourn so agonisingly as Lizette, who had been the nurse of the de- parted one from its earliest infancy. She had always felt for it almost a mother's tenderness, and this attachment in- creased while they were at the Sandwich Islands, and during their vo^.age home. I believe I have not before mentioned Lizette. She was a native of Oregon, who came to live with Mrs. White before little Jason's death, and was old enough to grieve deeply at the painful shock. She, with her two sisters, were early left orphans. Their mother died when they were very young. They then lived for some years with their relations> :]£A'. 140 TBN YEARS IN ORKOOK. when their father, who doted on his children, carried them to Fort Vancouver, Lizette was the eldest of the three, and her next sister, Angelique, was a beautiful, but delicate child. While at the fort, they unfortunately lost their kind father. He went out on a hunting and trapping excursion, and was thrown from his horse, a spirited hunter, and died in a few hours, and it was thought by his signs, for he was unable to speak, that his last thoughts were of his poor girls. They were now left alone, and Lizette was of an age to be capable of realizing painfully that they must hereafter look to strangers for home and care. Her greatest anxiety was for her frail Angelique, whose slight constitution could ill sup- port the fatigues and labors that could those of her stronger sisters. But, through the exertions of their friends, suitable places were found for both Sophie and Angelique, and Li- zette was placed with Mrs. White. She accompanied her to the States, from a curiosity to see the civilized world, of which she heard so much, expecting to return to Oregon. She has heard that her sisters are both married very happily, and longs to return — ^which she intends to do soon — to the woods and plains of her own beautiful country, and once more clasp in her arms her beloved sisters. So that Boggs sent a body of militia against this people in one of their first engagements, and they had, therefore, sworn deadly vengeance against him. This high-minded, and enterpiising gentleman afterwards removed to C^ifor- nia. The 14th of May had now arrived, and the emigrating party were rendezvoused at Elm Grove, twenty nules south- west of Independence, and on the morning of the Idth Dr. White took leave of the beautiful town of Independence. In travelling through the adjoining sections, together with Platte County, he was much pleased with the apparent fertility ■j» TEN riARS IN OREGON. 146 ]>r. In Istte tiUty of the soil and variety of the scenery. He felt now that he was taking a farewell of friends, and civilized life, and his emo- tions of grief were more poignant than any he had before expe- rienced. He had not now his family to sympathize with him, and a sense of almost utter loneliness crept over his heart. His anxiety was increased by a visit he had received from Mr. Sublet, who declared it his opinion, from only seventeen days* experience with such a party, that it would be perfectly im- possible for him to take through the country so large a com- pany of men, women, and children ; that he could not pre- serve order, discipline, and good feeling among them, and the consequences to be feared were, that every one would be destroyed, or cut off by the Indians. It caused the doctor great uneasiness and depression. This was the first exper- iment of the kmd ever made in that direction ; the distance, as computed by Fremont, was nearly twenty-seven hundred miles, through hordes of strange savages. A meeting of the emigration was called to consider this and other subjects, and to make regulations. The foUovnng resolutions were adopted : Resolved, That every male, over the age of .eighteen years, shall be provided with one mide, or horse, or wagoift.- conveyance ; shall have one gun, three pounds of powder, twelve pounds of lead, one thousand caps, or suitable flints, fifty pounds of flour, or meal, and thirty pounds of bacon, and a suitable proportion of provisions for women and chil- dren ; and, if any present be not so provided, he shall be rejected. Resolved, That I>r. White now exhibit to the meetings to be read by the secretary, any document from the war de- partment, in hb possession, showmg his appointment to any office in the Oregon territory; which, being done, on motion, 10 '•^y.'ry^i-«t^^ .^^ -,. I"'*' * . 146 TKN TBARS IH ORBOOK. I Resolved, Thai we elect a captain for one month, from and after this day. Resolved, That, for the benefit of all those who may here- after move to Oregon, and that government may h^ well in- formed of the road, its obstructions, means of subsistence, eminences, depressions, distances, bearings, etc., there be now elected a scientific corps, to consist of three persons, who shall keep a faithful and true record of every thing useful to government, or future emigrants. This corps consisted of C. Lancaster, S. W. Hastings, and A. L. Lovejoy. James Coates, was elected pilot, and Na- thaniel Crocker, secretary. Resolved, That H. Bums be appointed master black- smith, with power to choose two others, and also, to call to his aid the force of the company. Resolved, That John Hoffstutter be appointed master wagon maker, with like power with the blacksmith. Resolved, That the captain appoint a master road and bridge builder, with Uke powers. Resolved, That a code of laws be drafted, and submitted to the company, and that they be enforced by reprimand, fines, and final banishment. Resolved, unanimously. That there shall hereafter be no profane swearing, no obscene conversation, or immoral con- duct, allowed in the company, on pain of expulsion. Resolved, That the names of every man, woman,^and child be registered by the secretary. Which being done, -a^- Resolved, That this meeting >' )w adjourn, to meet again at Fort Vancouver, on the Columbia river, on the first day of October next, the powers of Heaven willing. :' H i*'.. TBK TEARS IN OKKQOV. 147 f' no jon- rain Iday CHAPTER XVIT. Departure— Emotiona — A friend — Manner of camping— Order of the morning — Dog slaughter — Sickness of a child— Detained two daya — Difficulty in crossing Caw river — Increasing illness of the child'— I(s death — The mother becomes ill — Mr. and Mrs. L. obliged to re- turn — ^UnduIating country — Big Blue — Divide — ^Rainy night — ^Buf- falo — ^Platte river and plain — ^Fuel — South fork of the Platte— Chim- ney and castle— Singular scenery — Arrival at Fort Laramy— Cost of flour, etc. — ^Bridger and company — Alarming incident. As they left their beautiful encampment, it was i noble sight. The eighteen wagons, with their snow white covering, winding down the long hill, followed by the immense tnun of horses, mules, and cattle of all kinds, their drivers walk- ing by their side, merrily singing, or whistling, to beguile their way. As Dr. White stood on an elevation, he cast his eyes forward towards the wastes and wilds of the savage world they were to traverse, and back to his own loved, pleasant land, and it need not be inquired whether his re- flections were of a very joyous nature. He felt much as he did two days previous, when parting with his old friend, Philip L. Edwards, whom he had known in Oregon. He had crossed the moimtains with Mr. Lee, subsequently returned, and was now residing in western Missouri. He was greatly interested, and such were his sympathies for the doctor, that, had circumstances permitted, he would cheerfully have accompanied him to the territory. Some curiosity may be felt as to the manner in which the wayfarers disposed of themselves, and herds especially. wmm%m '^^s-y—' 148 TBK TEARS IV OREaOK. \ I \ "ihrough the night. They travelled all day, steadily onward, till four o'clock in the afternoon, when they halted. As large a circle was made as could be formed by the wagons drawn up, one behind another, and the mules, horses, etc., with ropes of perhaps fifty feet in length, attached to them, turned loose upon the prairie to feed till evening. Each per- son then built a fire opposite his own wagon, and while this was being done, the females were preparing food for cook- ing. Two forked sticks were drivc.i into the ground, a pole laiiS^ across, and the kettle swung upon it. Those who had tfthj^, set tlt\em ou,, while others laid the cloth upon thf. ggi>};^d, and seated themselves around, after the fashion (f olden time, partaldng of the food before them with appe tit^ not at all wanting in keenness. After the meal, they usually enjoyed a season of recreation, sauntering about at thoir leisure, and it was really the most delightful portion of the^ day. At sunset, the horses were caught, and each hj hi» rope fastened to a stake, at suitable distances, and «l«- ••.'7, • left for the night. Sentinels were then stationed at different points, and in all directions were next heard the blows of the axes a^d hammers of the men, driving the stakes and pre- paring the tents. Most of the women and children slept in the^ comfortable, Pennsylvania covered wagons, and the men on blankets spread \mder the tents, with coats and saddles for pillows. As day dawned, according to a law, made as in otner republics, by a majority of votes, at a given »gna], ere^ one rose to prepare for departure. The boys went out in all directions to collect the teams and herds, which often dctamed them for several hours, as the cattle would sometimes wander off for miles. The first meal being over, iheLdishef nicely stowed, and everythmg pronounced in rea- dineBSf^he who, had taken the lead the day jprevious, went to 4 #.■■■■ ■'-■'-^' l¥t-..t TEN TEARS IS OREGON. i4d it to the rear, while the next in order too!£ his place. This tvie was invariably observed, as ii prevented any feeling that oth' ers were preferred to them. They passed on to the south-west, leaving the Santa J*e trail to the left, nothing out of the coiumuu rua^^ine occur- ring, till they reached .what they afterwards designated as the dog encampment. Here, by a two-thirds vote, it was determined to kill all the dogs of the company, having been informed, that, in crossing the mountains, and their vicinity, these ahimau rere apt to become rabid, as timber was scarce, and cofii^is- quenti/ water, which they so much required in the hcatis df summer, on the scorching plains. This arrangement did hot m all accord with the feelings of the ladies, and caused the first serious disturbance smce leaving the states. While t^e destruction was going on, the poor creatures would run to their mistresses for protection, crying most piteously. £v^]a the men, while engaged in their task, found their hearts were not sufficiently steeled, to permit its performance, with- out feelings of sorrow and regret. However, the recoUieii- tion of a freshly related account of the mad wolf, which had bitten eleven of two encampments, strengthened their fdrti- tude ; the death of the dogs was preferable to those of their herds, and perhaps members of their families, and they went resolutely about the work, amid the cries and screams of the women and children, as well as of the victims. While here, the child of Mr. Lancaster, of Platte city, was takea very ill, and they were unable to move for t#b days ; after which, they went on until they reached the C*# river, a hundred miles above Independence. This is a large and not unimportant branch of the MiiJ- souri, and, except at occasional points, difficult to pass ; and ♦ '"^!^J^<':. ^ii^.i^ ' 150 TBK TEARS IN OREaOK. ^ the expedition was much embarrassed as to the mode of crossing. At last a plan suggested itself, which was to lay boards across the wagon boxes, and place the baggage upon them. In four hours they had the joy of seeing their effects landed uninjured on the opposite bank. Here they found the child was rapidly growing worse, and it was concluded best for the party to go on, with the exception of an attendant, leaving Dr. White with the sor- rowing parents. For a day and a half, their effoi'ts to save her were incessant and imwearying, but vain. The sweet little one, their only child, died, with no one but themselves to close its eyes, and compose its tender form for burial. The doctor and attendant made it a coffin of rough boards, and interred it near a beautiful tree, with a few shrubs and bushes to guard the lonely nrrave. After all was over, they begged to be left alone, and oh, the heart-breaking anguish of those parents over their lost darling ! They sat on the damp ground, clasped in each other's arms, as though they would never tear themselves from the sacred spot, and moan- ed and wept as those who would not be comforted. At last, in compliance with the doctor's urgings, they arose and fol- lowed the party. As they rode over the plains, Mr. Lan- caster entered into conversation, and became calm and con- siderably relieved ; his manifestations of grief were less vio- lent, and when they overtook their friends, both mourners were quite comported. But this drf adful blew, with the hardships of the jour- ney, proved too much for Mrs. L.'s delicate frame, and she became very ill. With great difficulty they prosecuted two days' farther journey, when all conceived her at the point of death. Dangerous as were delays, from respect for Mr. L. and his amiable lady, the company lay by for three days, i TEN TEARS' IN OREGON. 151 when they were obliged to leave them, painful as it was to both parties, to retrace their way to the states, a distance of one hundred und seventy miles. They now pushed their way through an undulating coun- try, abounding in deer, elk, rabit, and hare, besides, a vari- ety of wild fowl. Having crossed the Big Blue without dif- ficulty, they hastened on to the great Divide, where they encamped. They pitched upon the summit of the Divide, where they had one of the most pelting rams of the journey. As they imagined they might be in the vicinity of the Pawnee Indians, they stationed sentineL^, who found their posts any thing other than enviable, as they were obliged to endure for three or four hours, severe drenchings, accom- panied with strong winds. Tlie dusk of another day brought them to the Platte in great excitement, for this was a point to which they had long been looking forward, as they would then soon obtain their first sight of buffalo. Another day, and they were in view of an immense herd. At thie, the old hunters showed all the animation of their profession, and absolutely almost danced for joy. A portion of the company immediately went oui, and suc- ceeded in driving one of the creatures to the river, whero they killed it. All collected with great curiosity to see the first slaughtereu buffalo, which was, indeed, a huge animal ; being, as was judged, three times the size of a common ox. After this, they saw numerous herds, as they passed through an almost timberless country. They foimd the Platte as had been represented, broad, and shallow, timber scarce, and water poor. The plain is from two to six miles in breadth, after which, it becomes un- dulating, and finally looses itself in the high hills or moun- tains beyon4» ,.tsasttKKa-iw:s:: ff 152 TENTKARS IIT OREOOfT. Theparty wrere some of the time destitute of wood, and for substitute used the skxill bones and manure of the buf- falo. At the south fork of the Platte, they had considerable difficulty. They chained the wagons together, and the hor- ses likewise, to the number of six or eight teams, and under- took a crossing of perhaps three-fourths of a mile. The men on horseback by the side of the teams, from the roaring of the waters, now unusually high and boisterous, were obli- ged to raise their voices to the very keenest pitch, for the poor creatures to hear them. The loading, as at the Caw River, was elevated, and the women and children huddled on the top of it. They were beyond the reach of the water, but their pale faces and violent tremor, showed their ex- cessive fear. Indeed, it was not without danger ; for about Uie same time, the following year, several w^ons were here overturned, the effects lost, and many very near being drowned. The whole scene was one of intense interest. They now passed over eighteen miles of rolling land, inter- spersed with thin clumps of timber, along the ravines which intervened between the southern and northern branches of the river. At the northern branch they found wood in pla- ces a little more plentiful ; game more abundant ; and the flat narrower. In this vicinity they saw the famous castle spoken of by Mr. Parker, and the chimney likewise, of which he did not have a view. The former is composed of large masses of clayey stones, piled together, and scattered about in a manner re- sembling the ruins of a large castle. The chimney, which they distmguished at nearly two days' travel from the spot, was strikingly like the contemplated Washington Monument ; a column running up to the height of, perhaps, two hundred .„..i.j|it^ TEN TSARS IK OREGOK. 153 feet, from the centre of which shoots up a tall spire, very much the shape of a chimney. The scenery became more and more angular ; fallen col- umns, blocks of massy stone, and broken walls. At inter- vals, there were collections and groups, having the appear- ance of ruinous castles, monasteries, towers, and every de- scription of massive building. This was, to the travellers, curious, grand, and picturesque, and entirely dissimilar to any thing they had before witnessed. The river forms an elbow at this point, and the surface was again more broken as they approached the Platte. A few days longer of monotonous, undisturbed journeying, and they arrived at Fort Laramy, the great central trading post of the American Fur Company, between six and seven hundred miles from the United Btates, and but a few miles from the Black Hills, supposed by some to be spurs of the Rocky Mountams. The following is an extract of a letter from Dr. White to his family : " Fort Laramjr, July 9d. " It gives me almost infinite pleasure to have an opportu- nity oi writing to you, and I am most fully assured that you will receive as much pleasure in reading as I in writing, * * * I am now in an Indian country, with foes on every hand, subtle as the devil himself; but our party is large and strong, and I have been able to obtain the services of Mr. Fitz Patr' k, one of the ablest and most suitable men in the country, in conducting us to Fort Hall, beyond the point of danger from savages. We have travelled three- fourths of the way to the mountains, suflFering no calamity in property, even to the loss of a wagon sppke, or crippling of '.■t ; and, indeed, nea:ly all articles of food, save meat, gen eiated much wrangling and unhappiness, and created in those who disliked the « Virginia weed," a still greater dis- gust than they had ever hefore entertained. Two days after the tobacco squall, they raised camp, and, well laden with jerked meat, departed in good cheer. Their route now lay through Sweetwater Valley. The valley received a verification of its name, from the following circumstance : A company were once passing the stream, and during a drunken carousal, emptied into it a large bag of sugar, thereby, as they said, christening it, and declaring it should hereafter be called Sweetwater Valley, as long as water ran. It was a very verdant section, and the animals impro- ved better upon it, than during any other part of the jour- ney. They now found themselves rapidly approaching the Bocky Mountains, and the timber, not in great variety, and of stinted growth. They saw many appearances, which re- minded them of the name of the mountains, and the large masses of rock they found, convinced them of its fitness. Kear this they came in view of an Indian village, contain- ing perhaps five hundred lodges. This caused great conster- nation, and seeking a proper place, they halted, and formed for defence as quickly as possible. They discovered signs which they feared were not of pacific character. Three large companies of savages collected from the lodges, each beating in front a fine flag, one of England, one of the United States, and a third of the Hudson's Bay Company, perhaps eight men abreast, advanced in a quick, though orderly manner. This, Dr. White says, with one exception, was the most imposing array of Indians, the noblest, best TKN YEAIIS IN ORBOON. 161 proportioned men ho ever saw. Hir.iself, Hustings, Fitz Patrick, and Lovejoy, wont forward to meet them, when several chiefs separated from their fellows, and came to- wards them. After a short conversation by signs and gestures, they accompanied the white men to their camp. Here they entert^ncd and presented them a few pres- ents, and then started forward, they remaining with, and escorting them, till out of sight of the village, when they left them, with much apparent good feeling. So the affair ended. There were, in all, at least two thousand Indians, and they might easily have d3stroyed the expedition, and their fate never have been learned by their friends at home. As they nerred the great southern pass, the weather be- came cold and damp. Although early in August, every where around, in spots obscured from the direct mys of the f^iin, lay little patches of snow. While they were passing along here, Fitz Patrick announ- ced that they were now crossing the Great Divide, and u len minutes would be in Oregon. Before thCin, on the north ^iide of the pass, the mountains towered high, their siunmits covered with snows ; and at an interval of from thirty -five to fifty miles, lay another va:t chain, stretching far away to the south. It is singular, that in this pass, sprang two streams ; one running west, emptying itself into the Pacific, the other east, and, through 'ntervening rivers, finally ming- ling with the waters of tue A; antic. While gazing through this , ass/it seems almost a Provi- dential arrangement, that a ^oition of the mountains, to this extent, had either been citricken entirely from among them, or sunk to the level of the sunounding country ; and it would be perfectly practicable to constrrct a nulway through the opening. 11 *>i :"'H •y*'! ("**«■■■ tK'f^'-V"^ 163 TBN YEAKS IN OREGON. ■*^'' Pr'^l I hardly need say, that all were delighted at the prospect of soon being on the western side of the mountains, descend- ing to the Valley of the Willamette. Two hours later, and they were to the Little Sandy, the first stream of consequence at which they were encamped, whose waters discharged into the Pacific. Here twelve of the party, who were ex- tremely desirous of advancing more rapidly, divested tliem- selves of carts, wagcns, and all unnecessary enciirabrances, and went on, leavir.g the general encampment to follow more leisurely, to Fort Hail. This was not accomplished without a struggle, with those who remained ; some being grieved, and others provoked, at being left behind. Af^'ir six days' travel, they reached Green liver, ov Colo- rado, throwing itself into the Bay of St, Francisco. This is a beautif al stream, but there was some difficulty in fording it with the tr ams, as the water W9« deep and rapid. After crossing, they remained two days on the banks, and found the valley verdant, and rather pretty, //hen contrasted with the sand plains around it. First day, at noon camping, the teams bein^- ttisposed of, fires made, and dinner nfirly ready, a monstrous Rocky Mountaui bear walked into the encampment ; and, in great agitation, tuc women and children fled to the wagons, and the men to armu. Alexander McKay, true to the habits of his ancestors, was the first on horseback, rifle in hand. In this he was quickly followed, and the whole camp in uprrarous confusion. By this time bruin had tacked about, and, bang I 'hing ! bang ! went the guns. He ran up the river shore, when, thinking it quite as safe, he dashed into the current, the party after him in full speed, to the opposite bank. Finding himself too hoC pursued, he again plunged madly into the watev, the men foilowiiig close at his heels till he reached ;«' m TEtl TSARS IK OREGOK. 163 rospect jsceml- tid thoy iquence iliarged rere ex- i them- brancep, )W more without grieved, ov Colo- This is fording . After ad found ted with )osed of, 3 Rocky in great ons, and )its of his In this iprrarouB id, hang I re, when, rent, the Finding into the reached # t^e shore; when the poor creature, utterly bewildered, sprang into a ihi^ fcet of willows and poplars, which had formerly been burned over, and was full of timber, both standing and fallen. They were determined to secure him at all hazards, and resolved to set fire to the wood, .and burn him from his hiding place. Accordingly, applying a brand to a few dead limbs, the light fiames soon curled iu volumes to the heav- ens. A circle was formed round the clump, which wa«, perhaps, one hundred and forty feet by forty, every man with gun in hand, ready to lay the beast dead at his feet the inoment he should appear. Followed by a cloud of smoke, he a t last emerged from his no longer LjaSe ixitreat ; but in- stantly meeting his deadly foe, he wheeled to the right, when, coming in contact mth anotlier sentinel, in confusioD turned his bead over his shoulder ; but. General ScottYitnes8- lar river, and pic- iter, and IS I have two or ly, even, and ver- fort Avas in 1834; lompany. : verdure ihe coun- generally e kindest with Mr. ladc ad- ,ed them iirneying. •limy, al- ies. sat out IcDonald, ionvinced lim, with several rith Mc- Ipots and liles, be- ing of little worth, except for grazing. At Salmon Falls were large numbers of natives, who, as is common at the rendez- vous all along the branches of the Columbia, were rude and saucy. They were deplorably destitute ; but salmon being plenty, were, particularly the youth, remarkably fat and ruddy. Portions of this tribe, though so healthy in appear- ance, were often, early in the spring, so reduced, that they were obliged to feed upon grass. In a few days they reached the crossing of Snake river, which they found dangerous and difficult. They were obli- ged to go directly across for a considerable distance, and then in an angling direction up the river, making a long ride before reaching the opposite bank. One of their number, not being sufficiently careful to observe the bar, was borne away, and, in the midst of cries and shrieks, drowned, in the sight of his friends. His implorings for help were most touching, but it was impossible to reach him. Their next arrival was at Fort Boise, on the right bank of the Snake, midway between Fort Hall and Fort Wallawalla, a place of little trade and importance, except as a stopping point between the two forts. There they recrossed the river and passed on through Burnt River Valley, the most br(^en tract they had heretofore traversed, though destined to be- come exceedingly valuable for its grazing qualities. They next reached the Grand Round, a fertile district, and valua- ble for herdsmen, in the midst of the Blue mountmns, thirty miles in length and perhaps half that in breadth. It is the opinion of some, that the valley was formed by a convulsion of nature, and was once a lake, as there are some portions of it yet a marsh, and there is a beautiful, boiling, circular spring, covering about an acre of ground, the temperature of which is very agreeable, except in portions, where it is •m iSlfcii' 166 TEN TEARS IN OREGOIT. too hot for the flesh to bear. They found several kinds of clover and graih growing in great luxuriance. When the party emerged from this beautiful valley, they found themselves in a heavily timbered, mountainous coun- try, where they were obliged to spend a night with scarcely a particle of grass for their wearied and hungry animals. Two days later brought them to the foot of the Blue moun- tains, and glad were they to be in a country more comforta- ble for man and beast. Here Dr. White called at an Indian wigwam, for a guide to conduct him to Dr. Whitman's residence, and leai-ned, to his great joy and surprise, that it was only fifteen miles dis- tant ; and he reached it after a pleasant morning's ride, over a noble and well grassed prairie, dotted with herds of wild horses and cattle. Though Dr. Whitman had been here but a few years, he was surrounded with comfoi'ts and conveniences, and his house and furniture reminded his visitor of the comfortable houses of the United States. The visit was very agreeable to both, as he had much to tell Dr. White of Oregon affairs, and the Dr. him of his two years' residence in the states. Dr. White visited Wallawalla after a two days* stay, and. was invited to take boat with Mr. McDonald, for Fort Van- couver ; and, in two days time, was at the station of Messrs. Perkins and Daniel Lee, at the Dalles. These gentlemen eagerly devoured the letters brought them from the states, and having been several years absent from their native homes, had numberless enquiries to make concerning those homes. But Mr. McDonald being in haste, the visit was cut short, and they were again afloat on the Columbia. From Dr. Whitman's to this point, it had been an entire prairie district, with no considerable clump of trees, much "Mii^V"* mti ^mi ■»■ -Tiir.no!! mw; '- '^m TBN YEARS IN OREaON. 167 [ kinds of tley, they 0U3 coun- b scarcely - animals, lue moun- comfarta- or a guide iai-ned, to miles dis- ride, over Is of wild years, he 3, and his )mfortable agreeable ;on affairs, the states. stay, and. Fort Van- of Messrs. gentlemen the states, ive homes, )sc homes. cut short, 1 an cntu'e ees, much of it a light, sandy soil, and, aside, from grass, very sterile. But they now found themselves in a well wooded country, which continued all the way to Fort Vancouver. As a nearer and better route has been discovered through the Cascade mountains, I will say little more of that by the Columbia, especially as so much has already been said and written by travellers. After something more than half a day's sail, they arrived at the Cascades, where, according to an Indian tradition, the mountains had extended across the river, its current running under them, till, from some cause, perhaps convulsion, they had fallen into its depths, and, forming a cataract, and then a succession of rapids, from which it received its name. Whether or not the legend be true, it is in the midst of the Cascade mountains ; and there are strong indications of theii' having rent asunder at no remote period. The waters, also, appear to have been dammed, from the fact that there are great numbers of stumps, or trunks of trees — and many of them from twenty to thirty feet high — standing in the river, imme- diately at, and for many miles above, and no where below, the far, perfectly petrified. Here, as was mentioned in the account of Mrs. "White's and Mr. Leslie's disaster, a long portage has to be made ; and Dr. White now passed the spot for the first time. Near this is the isolated rock, so far celebrated, rising from the river to the height of two hundred and seventy feet, and five hundred feet in circumference at its base, and, at a distance, in a form resembling a sugar loaf. The river beyond this, is remarkable for its high, rocky bluffs, and occasionally small rivulets shooting over them into the river, with a fall of from five hundred to a thousand feet. It is the projection of one of these points, which forms, what the Canadian voya- ^i* ^■:.A- 166 TEN FEARS IN OREGON. geurs have named Cape Horn, as, in stormy weather, it is very dangerous to pass. Here the Cascade mountains melt away, and a few miles further down are the Fort Vancouver mills, six miles only faom this great estahlishment. After a short visit with his friends, Gov. McLaughlin and Mr. Douglas, the doctor hastened on to the Willamette val- ley. On reaching the falls, where a little village — now Or- egon city — had sprung up during his absence, the news of his arrival spread like wildfire, and he w^as met and welcomed by his numerous, friends in a manner very grateful and touching to his feelings. He found that his absence had not deprived him of the friendship of those he so much pri- sed. The excitement, also, rose in part from his appoint- ment, considering it a prelude to farther movements in their behalf on the part of government. A meeting was imme- diately convened, for an expression of sentiment relative to his appointment, and the report of its doings was as follows : Champoeg, June 33, 1843. At a meeting of the citizens of Willamette valley, con- vened at the instance of Dr. Elijah White, agent of Indian affairs, for the purpose of communicating certain informa- tion from the government of the United States, relative to this country, the following business was transacted : The object of the meeting being stated by Dr. White, the convention proceeded to organize by choosing their officers. On motion, Dr. J. L. Babcock was unanimously elected chairman. On motion, G. W. La Breeton, was unanimously elected secretary. Dr. White then, by request, presented the credentials of his appointment to the office of sub-agent of Indian affairs, .*'v. *» ''■•i"'*'fliiiHiiilli" TXN TEARS IN OREOOK. 169 of the territory west of the Rocky Mountains, and was most cheerfully received by the assembly. The doctor addressed the meeting at some length, giving such information as he felt himself authorized to give, con- cerning the interest taken by the people of the United States, in the welfare of this colony, and concerning the intentions of the government in relation to this rising country, where- upon it was, on motion. Resolved, That a committee of seven be appointed to draft resolutions, expressive of the feelings of this community, with regard to the intentions of government, as communi- cated by Dr. E. White. Mr. T. J. Hubbard, Mr. G. W. La Breeton, Mr. R. Short- ess, Mr. G. Hines, Mr. J. O'Neal, Mr. G. Abemethy, and Mr. J. S. Parish, were elected that committee. The committee retired, and after a short absence, reported the following resolutions : Resolved, That we, the citizens of Willamette valley, are exceedingly happy in the consideration, that the government of the United States have manifested their intentions through their agent, Dr. E. White, of extending their jurisdiction and protection over this country. Resolved, That in view of the claims which the aborigi- nes of this country have upon the sympathies of the white man, we are gratified at the appointment of an agent by the United States government, to regulate and guard their in- terests. Resolved, That we highly approve of the appointment of Dr. E. White, to the above office, and that we will cordially co-operate with him, in carrying out the measures of gov- ernment in reference to this country. Resolved, That we feel grateful to the United States gov- .^■• 11 'ill ' liiiiirfllltw'tfiii I'l riti • •» ^'i' ?'ii't-' liai '/.^JU^c:.. 170 TSN TBAR8 IN ORSQOV. -^ i*>: ernment for their intended liberality towards the settlers of this country, and for their intention to support education and literature among us. Resolved, That it will give us the highest pleasure to be brought as soon as it may be practicable, under the jurisdic- tion of our mother country. Signed by the committee, T. J. Hubbard, G. W. La Bree- ton, R. Shortess, J. O'Neal, G. Hines, J. L. Parish. On motion, it was Resolved, That the report of the committee be adopted. On motion. Resolved unanimously. That the doings of this meeting, be transmitted to the government of the United States, by Dr. E. White, in order that our views and wishes in relation to this country, may be known. A committee was appointed to make arrangements for the reception of the large. reinforcement, with whose arrival the inhabitants were much pleased. The new comers them- selves were delighted with the beauty of the " Genesee-like Willamette valley," and the warm hearted hospitaUty of its inhabitants. With the latter subsequent expeditions were not so well pleased. This party, constituted of only one hun- dred and twelve persons, and, being the first from the states, great interest was excited ; but they afterwards poured in in such numbers, that it was difficult to entertain them, say- ing nothing of the novelty being lost. There were with this party a large number of mechanics and laborers ; and through their means the people of the valley were enabled to extend their plantations, and enlarge their buildings ; and every thing soon began to wear an aspect of thrift and enterprise. The people of the colony began seriously to entertain the TKir TEARS IK ORKOOK. ni ttlers of ktionand ire to be jurisdic- La Bree- meeting, itates, by n relation its for the Arrival the jrs them- nesee-like lity of its were not one hun- ;he states, poured in lem, say- with this d through to extend rnd every Bnterprise. ertain the 1 project of establishing a provisional form of government ; and meeting after meeting was held for this purpose, which, from their being so many aspirants to the most important offices, proved abortive. However, the next June, a committee, consisting of Robert More, Robert Newell, and Rober- Short- oss, were appointed to draft a code of organic laws, to be submitted to a convention, subsequently held for the consid- emtion, acceptance, or rejection of the same by the people. This proved, like the others, a disturbed session ; but, that the feelings of as many as possible might be accommoda- ted, they elected atribunate, instead of placing a single man at the head of the executive. Late in the fall of that year, 1844, great disturbances arose among the Indians of Wallawalla and Clearwater, and solicitations from the missionaries called for the interference of the sub-agent. This led to the expedition which is noti- ced in Dr. White's first annual report to the secretary of war, which is here inserted, together with the other three, sent in during his stay there. They are of much interest, indeed, of much more than I should be able to create. They con- tain a full relation of the transactions of the three following years. «t J [^'fxi'iif-^g!,- 172 TEN TEARS IN OREGON. CHAPTER XIX. General excitement— State of the colony— Improper conduct of the ap> per country Indians — Characier of the Wallawallas, Keyusea, and Nez Perces— Their disposition towards, the mifsionarics — Mistaken course of the missionaries — Their treatment of a clergyman — Dan- gerous situation of Dr. Whitman among thorn — His kindness — Indi- an's treatment of Mrs. W. — Burning of the mission mills — III treat- ment of Mr. Spalding and lady — Expedition of the Sub-Agent — Hardships — Reach Waiilatpu — Appointment with the chiefs — Mr. Spalding's station — Keception — The Agent'a trfatment of the In- dians — Public interview — Speeches of Mck iley, Rogers, and Mc- Kay — Five Crows, Bloody Chief, and others — The Doctor's statement and advice— Appointment of a high chief— Feasting — Last meeting — Close — Results of Dr. White's visit to the Nez Perces — Laws o' the Nez Perces — Return to Waiilatpu — Keyuse tribe — ^Fealhercap — Touiti's accusation against the whiles — Appointment for another meeting — Reach Wascopum— Success — Doings of the missionaries — Catholic missions — Schools — Country upon the Columbia and its tributaries, and towards California — Limestone, Slc. — Settlements a' the Willamette — ^Falatine Plains — Clatsop Plains, &c. — Comparison between a certain portion of Oregoi>, and the New England States -—Terrible disaster — Hard characters — Volcano — Report of Mr. Spalding — Mr. Jason Lee's Report. if Oregon, April 1, 1843. Sir : On my arrival, I had the honor and happiness of addressing you a brief communication, giving information of my safe arrival, and that of our numerous party, to these distant shores. At that time it was confidently expected a more direct, certain and expeditious method would be presented to ad- ^ tei^;#>-:ift^'»*^-^^''v*'?*?f -1*1 TIN TEARS IN OREOOV. 173 nentsa* s parison m J States w of Mr. f i' 1843. m less of V ition of 1 ) these 1 direct, 1 to ad- fl dress you in a few weeks ; but that failing, none has offered till now. I think I mentioned the kind and hospitable mann<:r we were received and entertained on the way by the gentloinen of the Hudson's Bay Company, and the cordial and most handsome reception I met with at Fort Vancouver, from Qovernor McLaughlin, and his worthy associate chief factor, James Douglass, Esq. ; my appointment giving pleasure, ra- ther than pain — a satisfactory assurance that these worthy gentlemen intend eventually to settle in this country, and prefer American to English jurisdiction. On my arrival in the colony, sixty miles south of Vancou- ver, being in advance of the party, and coming unexpectedly to the citizens, bearing the intelligence of the arrival of so large a reinforcement, and giving assurance of the good in- tentions of our government, the excitement was general, and two days after we had the largest and happiest public meet- ing ever convened in this infant colony. I found the colony in peace and health, and rapidly in- creasing in numbers, having more than doubled in population during the last two years. English, French, and half breeds, seem, equally with our own people, attached to the Ameri- can cause ; hence the bill of Mr. Linn, proffering a section of land to every white man of the territory, has the double advantage of being popular and useful, increasing such at- tachment, and manifestly acting as a strong incentive to all, of whatever nation or party, to settle in this country. My arrival was in good time, and probably saved much evil. I had but a short season of rest after so long, tedious, and toilsome a journey, before information reached me of the very improper conduct of the upper country Indians to- wards the missionaries sent by the American lljpard of com- ^^Jba^taiMfL^ iimmiii w TEH YEARS IN ORKGOK. missionerB, accompanied with a passport, and a desire for my interposition in their behalf at once. I allude to the only three tribes from which much is to be hoped, or any thing to be feared, in this part of Oregon, These are the Wallawallas, Keyuse, and Nez Perces, inhab* iting a district of country on the Columbia and its tributaries, commencing two hundred and forty miles from its mouth, and stretching to four hundred and eighty into the interior. The Wallawallas, most contiguous to the colony, number some thi'ee thousand, including the entire popidation. They are in general poor, indolent, and sordid, but avaricious ; and what few have property, in horse; and herds, are proud, haughty, arid insolent. The Keyuse, next easterly, are kss numerous, but more formidable, being brave, active, tempos* tuous, and warlike. Their country is well watered, gently undulating, extremely healthy, and admirably adapted to grazing, as Dr. Marcus Whitman may have informed you, who resides in their midst. They are comparatively rich in herds, independent in manner, and not unfrequently bolster* ous, saucy, and troublesome, in language and behavior. The Nez Perces, still further in the interior, number some- thing less than three thousand ; they inhabit a beautiful grazing district, not surpassed by any I have seen for ver- dure, water privileges, climate or health. This tribe form, to some extent, an honorable exception to the general Indian character, being more noble, industrious, sensible, and better disposed towards the whites, and their improvements in the arts and sciences ; and, though as brave as Caesar, the whites have nothing to dread at their hands, in case of theu- dealing out to them what they conceive to be right and equitable. Of late, these three tribes have become strongly iwited by reason of much intermarriage. For the last twenty I a M^ ttm\Uhf'H ,,.:-KSwvaMl»w«R»32 XBK TKARS IK ORBGOK. Hi sire for h is to Oregon, , inhab* mtarics, moutb> interior. )er some ?hey are us ; and J proud, are ki^t! tempos- , gently ipted to led you, y rich in boister- )ehavior. jr some- )eautifu1 for vei- )e form, al Indian id better ts in the sar, the of their ght and strongly t twenty years they have been generally well disposed towards the whites ; but at the time Captain fionncville visited this dis- trict of country, he dealt more profusely ;n presents, and paid a higher price for furs, than Mr. Pambro, one of the traders of the Hudson's Bay Company, established at Wal- lawalln, who had long dealt with them, and was previously a general favorite. On Mr. Bonneville's leaving, the chiefs assembled at the fort, and insisted on u change of the tariff in their favor. Pambro refusing, they seized him, stamped violently upon his breast, beat him severely, and retained him prisoner, in rather unenviable circumstances, till they gained, to a considerable extent, their object. Since that time they have been more consequential in feeling, and shown less deference and respect to the whites. On the ar- rival of missionaries among them, they have never failed to make, at first, a most favorable impression, which has, in most instances, unfortunately, led to too near an approach to familmrity, operating alike prejudicial to both parties. The Rev. Messrs. Lee and Parker, who made each but a short stay among them, left with like favorable impressions. Their successors, Spalding, Whitman, Gray, and ladies, with oth- ers who remained among them, were at last driven to the conclusion that Indians as much resembled each other in character as in complexion. These worthy people, not well versed in Indian character, and anxious to accomplish a great deal in a short time, resorted to various expedients to induce them to leave off their wandering, migratory habits, and set- tle down contiguous to them in herding and agricultural pursuits, so as to be able to send their numerous and healthy children to school. In these efforts they were zealous and persevering, holding out various inducements as so many stimulants to action, most of which would have operated % ^ ■ --■ ' ■w ^s*l M m lie TRN rSARS IN ORBOOW. i I well in civilized life, but generally failing with these Indians ! and whatever was promised conditionally, whether the con- dition v\ra3 met or otherwise, there was no reprieve — th; promised articles must come, and sometimes under circum- stances sufficiently trying, had these missionaries be^n lesj devoted, to have driven them from their post forever. The Indians, having gained one and another \ictory, be- came more and more insolent, till at last, some time previ- ously to my acrivftl, they were not only obti-usive and ex- ccedingl; annoying about and in the missionaries' houses, but .seized one of the clergymen in his own house — without a siiadow of provocation, further than that of treating a better neighboring chief with more respect than they — and insult- ed him most shamefully ; there being no other white person within fifty miles, save his sick and delicate lady. Soon after they commenced on Dr. Whitman ; pulled his ears and hair, and threw off his hat three times in the mud at his feet. A short time after, the chiefs assembled, broke into the house, violently assailed his person with war clubs, and with an axe broke down the door leading to his own private apartment. It is generally thought, and possibly with truth, that, on this occasion. Dr. W. would have been killed, had not a party of white men arrived just at this moment,* Never was such an outrage or insult more undeserving. He had built, for the express purpose of Indian accommodation, a house of the same materials, and finished in like manner with his own, of respectable size, and joined to his, and at all times, night and day, accessible. In addition to this, they were admitted to every room of his house but one. This being closed had I * Tt is by the same people that this worthy gentleman has so lately been murdered. I ■.V, t-'iJ:' TBN TEAliS IN ORBGOK. 177 ndians • he con- ve — th'3 circum- bcn les J r. )ry, be- le previ- and ex- Liscs, but ithout a a better d insult- te person oca after and hair, feet. A lO house, ,h an axe »artment. that, on a party was such juilt, for lOUSC of lis own, 1, night dmitted :)scd had B so lately es. # «i3S like to have C03t him his life. He had hardly left for the states last fall, Avhen, shocking to relate, at the hour of midnight, a large Indian chief managed to get into the house, came to the door of Mrs. Whitman's bedchamber, and had suc- ' c^jeded in getting it partly open before she reached it. A white man, sleeping in an adjoining apartment, saved her from violence and ruin. The villain escaped. There was but one thing wrong in this matter on the part of Dr. W. • and that was a great error — leaving his excelleatlady thus un- protected in the midst of savages. A few days after this they burned down the mission mill on his premises, with all its appendages and considerable grain, damaging them not less than twelve or fifteen hundred dollars. About the same time Mrs. Spaulding was gro.ssly insulted in her own house, and ordered out of it, sn the absence of her husband. In- formation reached him of an Indian having stolen his horse near the same time, he hastened to the spot to secure the animal ; the rougue had crossed the river ; but, immediately returning, he presented his loaded gun, cocked, at the breast of Mr. Spalding, abused and menaced as far as possible without shooting him. In addition to this, some of our own party were robbed openly of considerable property, and some twelve horses were stolen by night. Ail this information, coming near the kiame time, was po''"Viarly embarrassing, especially as my in- :»tructions would not allow me to exceed, for office, interpreter, and evwy other purpose, one thousand two hundred and fifty dollars per annum. On the other hand, their passport signed by the secretary of war made it my imperative duty to protect them in their persons at least from outrage. I did not long hesitate, but called on Thomas McKay, long in the employ- ment of the Hudson's Bay Company as explorer and loader 12 ^1 178 TEN YEARS IN OREGOK. of parties, who, from Lis frank, generous disposition, to- gether with his universal success in Indian warfare, has ob- tained an extensive influence over the aborigines of this country, and placing the facts before him, he at once con- sented to accompany me to this scene of discord and conten- tion. We took but six men with us, armed in tlie best man- ner, a sufficient number to command respect and secure the object of our undertaking — McKay assuring me, from his familiar acquaintance with these Indians, and their thorough knowledge of the use of arms, that if hostile intentions were entertained, it would require a larger party than we could raise in this country to subdue them. Obtaining Cornelius Rogers and llatteus Dorion,* as interpreters, we set out on the * Batteus Dorion was he son of Mr. Hum's interpreter, Pierre Dori- on, who, with his heroic spouse, is so often mentioned In Irving's Asto- ria. " As McKenzie, Clark, and Stuart were proceeding up the Co- lumbia, near the mouth of the Wallawalla river, several Indian canoes put off from the shore to overtake them, and a voice called upon ihcm in French to stop. They accordingly put to shore, and were joined l>j those in the canoes. To their .surprise, they recognized in the person who had hnilcd them, ihe ImJinti wife of Pierre Dorion, accompanied by her two children. She had a story to tell ; involving the fate of sev- eral of our unfortunate adventurers. Mr. John Reed, the Hibernian,, it will be remembered, had been detached during the sumnur to Snaku River. Thi3 party consisted of fcur Canadians, together with two hunters, Pierre Dorion and Pierre Dclaunay; Dorion, as utual, being accompanied hy his wife andchildien. The objects of this expedition were two-fold, to trap braver,, and to search for the three hunters, Rob- inson, Hoback and Rezner. In the course of the autumn. Reed lost one man, by death ; another one, who was of a sullen, perverse di.-n, to- as ob- )f this ;e con- contcn- 3t man- Liie the om his lorough ins were e could ornclius it on the ene Dori- ng's Asto- ip the Co- iau canoes ipoa tlicm ; joined l>y the person onipaiiied ate of scv- liberniaDj to Snake with two uiil, being expedition nlers, Rob- Reed lost ersc dispo- irda. The :^°3, as iho Reed now ^hich bcini; 16th of November — as McKay justly denominated it — our voyage of misery, having a journey, by water and land, of not less than nine hundred and fifty miles, principally over open plains, covered with snow, and several times under the completed, the party set about trapping. Rezner, Le Cicrc, and Pierre Dorion, went about five days' journey from the wintering house, to a part of the country well stocked with beaver. Here they put up a hut and proceeded to trap with great success. While the men were oot hunting, Pierre Dorion'a wife remained at home to dress the skins and prepare the meals. She was thus employed one evening, about the be- ginning of January, cooking the supper of the hunters, when she heard footsteps, and Le Clcrc staggered, pale and bleeding, into th« hut. He informed her that a party of euvagcs had surprised them, while at their traps, and killed Rczncr antl her husband. He had barely strength left to give this information, when he sank upon the ground. The poor woman saw that the only chance for life was instani flight, but, in thie exigency, showed that presence of mind, and force of character for which she had frequently been noted. With great difficulty, she caught two of the horses belonging to the party ; when collecting her clothes, and a small quantity of beaver meat and dried salmon, she packed them upon one of the horses, and helped the wounded mail to mount upon it. On the other horse she mounted with her two children, and hurried away from this dangerous neighborhood, directing her flight for Mr. Reed's establishment. On the third day she descried a number of Indians on horseback, proceeding in an easterly direction. She imme- diately dismounted with her children, and helped Le Clerc likewise to dismount, and all concealed themselves. Fortunately they escaped the sharp eyes of the savages, but had to proceed with the utmost caution That nigut, they slt-pt without tire or water ; she managed to keep her children warm in her arms ; but before morning, poor Lo Clerc died. With the dawn of day, the resolute woman resumed her course, and on the fouth day, reached the house of Mr. Reed. It was deserted, and all around were marlis of blood and signs of a furious massacre. Not doubting that Mr. Reed and his party had all fallen victims, she turned with fresh horror from the spot. For two days she continued hurrying forward, really to sink for want of food, but moK eolicitous about her 180 TXN TXARS IN 0RE60V. necessity of spendmTf the night without wood or fire, other than what was made by a small growth of wild sage, hardly sufficient to boil the tea kettle. The gentlemen, as we called at Fort Vancou> er, did every thing in their power to make the journey comfortable, but evidently felt anxious concern- ohildren than herself. At length she reached a range ef the Rocky Mi .tutains, near the upper part of the Wallawalla river. Here she ch ^c : wild, lonely ravine, as her place of winter refuge. She hail fortoni. ely a bnfialo robe and throe deer skins ; of those, and pine bark and cedar branches, she constructed a lude wigwam, which she pitched %eBide a mountain spring. Having no other food, she killed two hor- ses, and smoked their flesh. The skins aided to cover her hut. Here she drugged out the winter, with no other company than her two chil- dren. Towards the middle of March, her provisions were nearly ex- kausied. She therefore picked up the remainder, slung it on her back, and with her helpless little ones, set out again on her wanderings Grossing the ridge of moantains, she descended to tlie banks of the Wallawalla, and kept along them uniil she arrived where that rivei throws itseK into the Columbia. She was hospitably received and en- terta ned by the Wal,..waila'8, and had been nearly two weeks among them when the two canoes passed. On being interrogated, she could ««ign no reason for this murderous attack of the snvagcs ; it appeared t» be perfectly wanton and unprovoked. Some of the Asterians rap- IMMMd it an act of botehery by a roving band of Blackfe«t, others, how- etMr, and with greater {>mbability of correctness, have ascribed it to the wtbt of Piercednoseil Ittdians, in revenge for the death of a comrade, titMged by order of Mr. Clarke. If so, it shows that these sudden and ftppaieuuy '^aritun outbreakings of sanguinary violence on the part of tlie savages, have often 8> me previous, though pcrho pa remote provoca- tten." — Trvivg's Aatwia. Dr. White eaw this woman living comfortably in the Willamette tkUey, with a Canadian Frenchman, to whor.i she had tong been mar- fiVi. She presented him several pain of mocc5«ins, very neatly execu- ted, after the most approved fhshion of her tribe. He WM very mocb knprCMed with her noble, commanding bearing i f i TEN TEARS IN OREGON. 181 ing our safety. We reached the Dalles, some two hundr -d and twenty miles from the Pacific, on he 24th having been deatained by wind, spent several days with the Methodist mission families, who welcomed us joyfully, and made our stay agreeable and refreshing. Mrs. Dr. Whitman was here, having found it improper and unsafe to remain where she had been so lately grossly insulted. Her noble and intellec- tual mind and spirit were much depressed, and her health suffering ; but still entertaining for the people or Indians of her charge the feelings of a mother towards ungrateful chil- dren ; our visit encouraged her. We procured horses and travelled by land to Wallawalla, one hundred and forty miles above, reaching the Hudson's Bay establishment on the 30th. Mr. McKinley, the gentleman in charge, to whom the mis- sionaries are indebted for many kind offices in this isolated portion of the earth, ixjsolved to make it a common cause, and stand or fall with us. We reached Waiilatpu, the sta- tion of Dr. Whitman, the day following, and Avere shocked and pained at beholding the sad work of savage destruction upon this hitherto neat and commodious little establishment. The Indians in the vicinity were few and shy. I thought best to treat them with reserve, but made an appointment to meet the chiefs and tribe on my return. Left the day following for the station of Mr. Spaulding among the Nex- percs, some one hundred and twenty or one hundred and thirty miles from Waiilaptu ; reached it on the 3rd of De- oembCi, after a rather pleasant journey over a most verdent and delightful grazing district, well watered, but badly tim- K^vfcd. i .aving sent a private despatch in advance they had conveyed the intelligence to the Indians, many of whom were collected. The chiefs met us with civility, gravity and 182 TEN TEARS IN OREGOK. dignified reserve, but the missionaries with joyful counte- nances and glad hearts. Seldom was a visit of an Indian agent more desired, nor could one be more necessary and proper. As they were col- lecting, we had no meeting for eight-and-forty hours ; in the mean time, through my able interpreter and McKay, I man- aged to secure confidence and prepare the way to a good un- destanding ; visited and prescribed for their sick, made a short call at each of their chief's lodges, spent a season in school, hearing them read, spell, and sing ; at the same time examining their printing and writing, and can hardly avoid here saying I was happily surprised and greatly interested at seeing such numbers so far advanced and so eagerly pur- suing after knowledge. Tlie next day I visited their little plantations, rude to be sure, but successfully carried on, so far as raising the necessaries of life were concerned ; and it was most .gratifying to witness their fondness and care for their little herds, pigs, poultry, etc. The hour arriving for the public interview, I was ushered into the presence of the assembled chiefs, to the number of twenty-two, with some lesser dignitaries, and a large number of the common peo- ple. The gravity, fixed attention, and decorum, of these sons of the forest, was calculated to make for them a most favorable impression. I stated explicitly, but briefly as pos- sible, the design of our great chief in sending me to this country, and the present object of my visit ; assured them of the kind intentions of our government, and the sad consequences that would ensue to any white man, from this time, who should invade their rights, by stealing, murder, selling them damaged for good articles, or alcohol, of -vhich they are not fond. Without threatening, I gave them to un- derstand how highly Mr. and Mrs. Spalding were prized by TBN TEARS IN OREQOK. ISt the numerous whites, and with wliat pleasure the great chiisf gave them a passport to encourage them to come liero to teach them what they were now so diligently employed in obtain- ing, in order that they and their children might become good, wise and happy. After me, Mr. McKinley, tlie gcnteman in charge of the Iludson'.s Buy establii^hraent at WuUawalla, spoke concisely, but very properly ; alluded to his residence of some years, and of the good understanding that had gen- erally existed between them, and of the happiness that he felt that one of his brothers had come to stand and judge impartially between him, them, and \Yhites and Indians in general ; declared openly and frankly, that Boston, King George, and French, were all <>f one heart in this matter, as they, the Keyusc and Wallawallas should be ; flattered them delicately in view of their — to him — unexpected advance- ment in the arts and sciences, and resumed his seat, having made a most fiworablc impression. Next followed Mr. Ro- gers, the interpreter, who, years before, had been employed successfully as linguist in this section of the country by the American board of commissioners, and was ever a general favorite with the people. lie adverted sensibly and touchingly to past difficulties between whites and Indians east of the mountains, and the sad consequences to every tribe who had resisted honorable measures proposed by the more numerous whites ; and hav- ing, as he hoped, secured their confidence in my favor, ex- horted them feelingly to adopt such measures as should be thought proper for their benefit. Next, and lastly, arose Mr. McKay, and remarked with a manner peculiar to himself, and evidently with some emo- tion : I appear among you as one arisen from the long sleep of death. You know of the violent death of my father on 184 TEN TEARS IN OKBGOV. board tlie ship Tonquin, who was one of the partners of th<» Aster company; I was but a youth ; since which time, till the last five years, I have been a wanderer through these wilds; none of you, or any Indians of this country, having travelled so constantly or extensively as I have, and yet I saw you or your fathers once or more annually. I have min- gled with you in bloody wars and profound peace ; I have stood in your midst, surrounded by plenty, and suffered with you in seasons of scarcity ; we have had our days of wild and joyous sports, and nights of watching and deep con- cern, till I vanished from among men, left the Hudson's Baj company, silently retired to my plantation, and there con- fined myself. There I was, still, silent, and ii3 one dead : the voice of my brother, at last, aroused me ; I spoke and looked ; T mounted my horse — an here. I am glad it is so. I come at the call of the great chiet', thoi chief of all tho whites in the country, as well as the Indians, the son of the mighty chief whose children are more numerous than the stars in the heavens or the leaves of the forest. Will yov? hear, and be advised ? You will. Your wonderful improvements in the arts and sciences prove you are not fools. Surely you will hear ; but if disposed to close your ears and stop thena., they will be torn open wide, and you will be made to bear. This speech from Mr. McKay, whose mother is a native, though the wife of Gov. McLaughlin, had a singularly happy influence, and opened the way for expressions on the other side, from which there had not hitherto been a sentence ut- tered. First arose Five-Crows, a wealthy chief of forty- rive, neatly atcired in English costume. He stepped gravely hot modestly forward to the table, remarking : It does not become me to speak first ; I am but a youlh, as yet, when oom^ared to many of these my fathers ; but my feelings TBN TSARS IM OREOON. 186 ve. en urge me to arise and say what I am about to utter in a very few words. I am glad the chief has come ; I have listened to what has been said ; have great hopes that brighter days are before us, because I see all the whites are united in this matter ; we have much wanted some thing ; hardly knew what ; been groping and feeling for it in confusion and dark- ness. Here it is. Do we see it, and shall we accept ? Soon the Bloody Chief arose — not less than ninety years old — and said : I speak to-day, perhaps to-morrow I die. 1 am the oldest chief of the tribe ; was the high chief when your great brothers, Lewis and Clarke, visited this coun- try ; they visited me, and honored me with their friendship and counsel. I showed them my numerous wounds received in bloody battle with the Snakes ; they told me it was not good, it was better to be at peace ; gave me a flag of truce ; I held it up high ; we met and talked, but never fought again. Clarke pointed to this day, to you, and this occasion ; we have long waited in expectation ; sent three of our sons to Red river school to prepare for it ; two of them sleep with their fathers ; the other is here, and can be ears, mouth, and pen for us. I can say no more ; I am quickly tired ; my voice and limbs tremble. I am glad I live to see you and this day, but I shall soon be still and quiet in death. The speech was affecting. Six more spoke, and the meet- ing adjourned three hours. Met at the hour appointed. All the chiefs and principal men being present, stated delicately the embarrassed relation existing between whites and Indi- ans in this upper country, by reason of a want of proper or- ganization, or the chief's authority not being properly re- garded; alluded to some cases of improprieties of young men, not sanctioned by the chiefs and old men ; and where the chiefs had been in the wrong, hoped it had principally Id6 TKN TEARS IN ORBGOIT. arisen from imperfectly understanding each other's language or some other excusable cause, especially so far as they were concerned. Advised them, as they were now to some ex- tent prepared, to choose one high chief of the tribe, and acknowledge him as such by universal consent ; all the other siubordinate chiefs being of equal power, and so many helps to carry out all his lawful requirements, which they were at once to have in writing, in their own language, to regulate their intercourse with whites, and in most cases with them- selves. I advised that each chief have five men as a body guard, to execute all their lawful commands. They desired to hear the laws. I proposed them clause by clause, leav- ing them as free to reject as to accept. They were greatly pleased with all proposed, but wished a heavier penalty to some, and suggested the dog law, which was annexed. We then left them to choose the high chief, assuring them if they did this unanimously by the following day at ten, we would all dine together with the chief on a fat ox at three, himself and myself at the head of the table ; this pleased them well, and they set about it in good cheer and high hopes ; but this was a new and delicate task, and they soon saw and felt it ; however, all agreed that I must make the selection, and so reported two hours after we left the council. Assuring them this would not answer ; that they must select their own chief, they seemed somewhat puzzled, and wished to know if it would be proper to counsel with Messrs. McKay and Ro- gers. On telling them that it was not improper, they felt a little relieved, and worked poor Rogers and McKay severely for many hours ; but altogother at length figured it out, and in great good humor, so reported at ten, appointing Ellis high chief He is the one alluded to by the Bloody Chief, a sensible man of thirty-two, reading, speaking, and writing TSN TKARS IN OREOOK. 187 the English language tolerably well ; has a fine small planta- tion, a few sheep, some neat stock, and no less than cloven hundred head of horses. Then came on the feasting ; our ox was fat, and cooked and served up in a manner reminding one of the daj's of yore ; we ate beef, corn, and peas to our fill, and in good cheer took the pipe, when Rev. Mr. Spal- ding, Messrs. McKinley, Rogers, and McKay, wished a song from our boatmen ; it was no sooner given than returned by the Indiiuis, and repeated again, again, and again, in high cheer. I thought it a good time, and required all having any claim to bring, or grievances to allege, against Mr. Spal- ding, to meet me and the high chief at evening in the coun- cil room, and requested Mr. Spalding to do the same on the part of the Indians. We met at six, and ended at eleven, having accomplished, in the happiest manner, much anxious business. Being too well fed to be irritable, or disposed to quarrel, both paities were frank and open, seeming anxious only to learn our opinion upon plain undis- guised matters of fact, many of the difficulties having arisen from an honest difference of sentiment respecting certain measures. Ellis, the chief, really conducted himself throughout in a manner creditable to his head and heart, was quite as cor- rect in his conclusions and firm in his decisions as could have been expected. The next day we had our last meeting, and one full of interest, in which they proposed to me many grave and proper questions ; and, as it was manifestly de- sired, I advised in many matters, especially in reference to begging or even receiving presents, without, in some way, returning an equivalent ; pointed out in strong language who beggars are among thr whiK s, and how regarded ; and com- mended them for not once troubling me, during my stay, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 !^>^ 1^ ua Ui2 12.2 I.I III L25 II 1.4 Hi m ■ 1.6 Photograiiiic Sciences Corporation ^ a;^ V \ \ ^. '' A. V 23 WIST MAIN STRUT W6i»TII>,N,Y. USM (7W>; trausos ^^^** ^^^ ^ \ 188 TBN TSARS IN 0BK90K. I- with this disgusting practice ; and as a token of respect, now, at the close of our long and happy meeting, they would please accept, in the name of my great chief, a present of fifty garden hoes, not for those in authority, or those that had no need of them, hut for the chiefs and Mr. Spalding to distribute among their industrious poor. I likewise, a» they were very needy, proposed and ordered them some me- dicines, to be destributed as they should from time to time be required. This being done, I exhorted them to be in obedience to their chiefs, highly approving the choice they had made, assuring them, as he and the other chiefs were responsible to me for their good behavior, I should feel it my duty to see them sustained in all lawful measures to promote peace and order. I then turned, and with good effect desired all the chiefs to look upon the congregation as their own children, and then pointed to Mr. Spalding and lady, and told the chiefs, and all present, to look upon them as their father and mother, and treat them in all respects an cuch ; and should they happen to differ in sentimeift respect- ing any matter during my absence, be cautious not to differ in feeling, but leave it till I should again return, when the chief and myself would rectify it. Thus closed this mutually happy and interesting meeting, and, mounting our horses for home, Mr. Spalding and the chiefs accompanied me for some four or five miles, when we took leave of them in the pleas- antest manner, not a single circumstance having occurred to mar our peace or shake each other's confidence. I shall here introduce a note, previously prepared, giving some further information respecting this tribe, and append a copy of their laws. The Nez Perces have one gover- nor or principal chief, twelve subordinate chiefs of equal power, being the heads of the different villages or clans, with TBK TSARS IK ORKGOV. 189 their five ofBcers to execute all their lanvful orders, irhich law they have pviated in their own language, and read un- dcrstandingly. The ^liiefs are held responsible to the whites for the good behavior of the tribe. They are a happy and orderly people, formiijg an honorable exception to the gene- ral Indian character, being more industrious, cleanly, sensi- ble, dignified, and virtuous. This organization was effected last fall, and operates well, and with them, it is to be hoped, will succeed. A few days since Governor McLaughlin favored me with a note address- ed to him from the Rev. H. H. Spalding, missionary to this tribe, stating as follows: "The Indians in this vicinity are remarkably quiet this winter, and are highly pleased with the laws recommended by Dr. W.ite, which were unanimously adopted by the chiefs and people in council assembled. The visit of Dr. White and assistants to this upper country will evidently prove an incalculable blessing to this people. The school now numbers two hundred and twenty-four in daily attend- ance, embracir.g most of the chiefs and principal men of the nation." LAWS OF THE NE8 PERCES. Art. 1. Whoever wilfully takes life shall be hung. Art. 2. Whoever bums a dwelling house shall be hung. Art. 3. Whoever burns an outbuilding shall be impris- oned six months, receive fifty lashes, and pay all damages. Art. 6. If any one enter a dwelling, without permission of the occupant, the chiefs shall punish him as they think proper. Art. 0. If any one steal he shall pay back two fold ; and if it be the value of a beaver s\in or less, he shall receive 190 TBN TEARS IN OREGON. twenty-five lashes ; and if the value is over a beaver skin he shall pay back two-fold, and receive fifty lashes. Art. 7. If any one take a horse, and ride it, without permission, or take any article, and use it, without liberty, he shall pay for the use of it, and receive from twenty to fifty lashes, as the chief shall direct. AiiT. 8. If any one enter a field, and injure the crops, or throw down the fence, so that cattle or horses go in and do damage, he shall pay all damages, and receive twenty- five lashes for every offence. Art. 9. Those only may keep dogs who travel or live among the game ; if a dog kill a lamb, calf, or any domestic animal, the owner shall pay the damage, and kill the dog. Art. 10. If an Indian raise a gun or other weapon against a white man, it shall be reported to the chiefs, and they shall punish him. If a white person do the same to an Indian, it shall be reported to Dr. White, and he shall re- dress it. Art. 11. If an Indian break these laws, he shall be pun- ished by his chit'fs ; if a white man break them, he shall be reported to the agent, and be punished at his instance. After a severe journey of some four days, through the inclemency of the weather, we reached Waiilaptu, Dr. Whitman's station, where we had many most unpleasant mattei's to settle with the Keyuse tribe — such as personal abuse to Dr. Whitman and lady, buniing the mill, &g. &c. Several, but not all of the chiefs, were present. Learning what the Nez Perces had done, gave them great concern and anxiety. Touiti, the high chief, and Feathcrcap, were there, with some few more dignitaries, but manifestly uneasy. vp TKN TEARS IN OREGON. 191 I being shy and cautious. I thought best, under the circum- stances, to be quiet, distant, and reserved, and let them com- mence the conversation with my worthy and faithful friends, Rogers and McKay — both conducting with characteristic firmness and candor. They had not proceeded far before Foathercap, so far as we know, for the first time in life, com- menced weeping, and wished to see me ; said his heart was sick, and he could not live long as he now felt. Touiti, who was no way implicated personally in the difficulties, and a conect man, continued for some time firm and steady to his purpose ; said the whites were much more to blame than the Indians ; that three-fourths oi them, though they taught the purest doctrines, praticed the greatest abominations — allu- ding to the base conduct of many in the Rocky Mountains*, where they meet them on their buflalo hunts during the summer season, and witness the greatest extravagances. They were shown the inapplicability of such instances to the present cases of difficulty. He, too, at last was much subdued ; wished to see me ; was admitted ; made a sensible speech in his own favor ; said he was constituted eight years before high chief, entered upon its duties with spirit and courage, detcnnined to reduce his people to order. Ht; flogged the young men, and reproved the middle aged, till, having none to sustain him, his popularity had so declined that, except in seasons of difficulty, brought about by their impioprielies, I am left alone to say my prayers, and go to bed, to weep over the follies and wickedness of my peo- ple. Hero his voice trembled, and he wept freely — ac- knowledged his opinion that the mill was burnt purposely by some disaffected persons toward Dr. Whitman. I spoke kindly and somewhat encouragingly to these chiefs ; assured them that the guilty only were to be regarded as such ; and 192 TKM YEARS IK OnsaOX. h .* that candor was commendable, and would be honored by all the good ; assured them I credited all they said, and deplo- red the state of their nation, which was in perfect anarchy and confusion ; told them I could say but little to >hem now, as their chiefs were mostly abroad ; but must say that the shocking conduct of one of the chiefs towards Mrs. Whitman greatly afflicted me ; and that, with the destiuction of the mill, and their abominable conduct towards Dr. Whitman, if not speedily settled, would lead to the worst of consequen- ces to their tribe. I made an engagement to meet them and all the tribe the ensuing new moon of April, to adjust differences, and come to a hotter understanding, they ear- nestly wishing to adopt the same laws as the Nez Perces had. We should probably have accomplished a satisfactory bettlement, had not several of the influential chiefs been too far away to get information of the meeting. We reached Wascopum on the 2oth December, the Indians being in great excitement, having different views and impressions re- specting the nature of the approaching visit. We spent four days Aviih them, holding meetings daily, histructing them in the nature of government, civil relations, domestic duties, ^c. &c. Succeeded, in like happy manmtr, with them as the Nez Perces, they unanimously adopting the same code (^ laws. Late information from one of the missionaries, you will see in the following note from Mr. H. B. Brewer : " The Indians of this place intend to carry out the regula- tions you left them to the letter ; they have been quite en- gaged in cutting logs for houses, and live in expectation of better dwellings by and by. For the least transgression of tho laws they are puniahcd by then: chiefs immediately. MMMpilii mJiU TSM rXARS IM ORBQOir. i»a fi The clean faces of some, and the tidy dresses of others, shour the good effects of your visit/' And here allow me to say, except at Wascopum, the mis- sionaries of this upper country arc too few in number at their respective stations, and in too defenceless a state (ot their own safety, or the best good of the Itidions, the latter taking advantage of these circumstances, to the no small annoyance, and, in some instances, greatly endangering the personal safety of the former. You will see its bearings upon this infant colony, and doubtless give such information or instruc- tions to the American board of commissioners or myself, as will cause a correction of this evil. It has already occasion- ed somj diiScult) and much cost. I have insisted upon an inoreti. >i of numbers at Mr. Spalding's mission, which has accordingly been reinforced by Mr. Littlejohn and lady, ren- dering that station measurably secure ; but not so at Waii- laptu, or some of the CaUiolic missions, where some of them lost a considerable amount in herds during last winter, and, I am told, were obliged to abandon their posts, their Uv€;« being endangered. This was in the interior, near the Black- feet countiy. You will observe, from the reports of the different mis- sions, which, so far OS I am otherwise informed, are correct, that they are doing some positive good in the country, not only by diffusing the light of science abroad among U8» but also by giving employment to many, and, by their drafts upon the different boards and others, creating a circulating medium in this country ; but, though they make compara- tively slow progress in the way of reform among the abori< gines of this country, their pious and correct example has ^ most restraining influence upon both whites and Indians, and in this way they prevent much evil. 13 104 TKN rEARS IK ORKQOV. They have in successful operation six schools. Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Spalding — whose zeal and untiring industry for the people of their charge entitle them to our best considerations — ^have a school — of some two hundred and twenty-four in constant attendance — most successfully carried forward, which gives promise of great usefulness to both sexes and all ages. Rev. Messrs. Walker and Eells I have not been at lei- sure to /isit, but learn they have a small school in opera- tion. The one at Waiilaptu, Dr. Whitman's station, is now ^commenced, with promise of usefulness. The Rev. Mr. Blanchette and associates, though zealous Catholics, are peaceable, industrious, indefatigable, and suc- cessful, in promoting religious knowledge among the Cana- dian population andaborigines of this country. Their enter- prise in the erection of mills and other public works is very commendable, and the general industry, good order, and cor- rect habits of that portion of the population under their charge is sufficient proof that their influence over their people has been exerted for good. The Rev. Mr. Lee and associates, aside from their well conducted operations, upon the Colum- bia, and a school of some thirty scholars successfully carried forward upon the Willamette, are doing but little for the In- dians ; nor could greater efforts produce much good among tb« scattered remnants of the broken tribes of this lower district, who are fast disappearing before the ravages of the most loathsome dbeases. Their principal hopes of success in this country are among the whites, where they are en- deavoring to lay deep and broad the foundations of science. The literary institution referred to by Mr. Lee is situated upon a beautiful rising ground — a healthy and eligible loca- tion. Could a donation of five thousand dollars be bestowed upon the institution, it would greatly encourage its friends. ^ i^imalMMHHiltM m^mmm TSN TSARS IN ORBOOIT. 196 The donations made by individuals of this country have been most liberal, several giving one-third of all they possessed. There is u small school established at Palatine plains, by Rev. Mr. Clark and lady. There is also a school at the Catholic mission, upon the Willamette, and also one at their station upon the Cowlitz. For further information, I will refer you to the reports made, at my request, by the several missions, and accompanymg these despatches. The country upon the Columbia and its tributaries, as far as the Dalles, a distance of two hundred and twenty miles from its mouth, is well timbered ; above the Dalles timber is scarce, large districts being destitute, except here and there a small quantity growing upon the streams of water. The country between the Colimibia and California is also timber- ed, and of a fine quality. The district contiguoixs to the Columbia, is, generally, too rough and moimtunous ever to become an agricultural country ; but south of the Columbia, in the valley of the Willamette, the soil is admirably adapted to purposes of agriculture, being generally imdulating pirai- ries, surrounded by timbered land, and intersected by nu- merous small streams. This is the character of the country, generally towards California. Mr. Spalding's report gives a general statement of the character of the country bordering upon the Columbia above the Dalles. The Columbia, the principal river of this region, is somewhat difficult to enter, owing to the want of proper charts, &c. The ships of the Hudson's Bay Company, are, however, in the constant hab- it of ascending it as far as Vancouver fort. The Willamette, a tributary of the Columbia, can be ascended at favorable seasons of the year by vessels of two hundred tons, to within a few miles of the falls. The Umqua river has a small harbor, but cannot be as- 196 TBK T£AK8 IN OKKOOIT. CMided a great distance by vessels. The Nusqually, as yon have been doubtless informed by Commander Wilkes, about one hundred and forty miles north of the Columbia, forms a G90 harbor ; the river, however, not being navigable to a graat distance by large vessels. Stone for building purposes is abundant on the banks of the Columbia, stretching far into the interior. There i& some granite, but basaltic rock only is vciy plentiful upmt tho Willamette, to some distance above the falls. Limestone hm been found in some quantities in the neighborhood of the mouth of the Columbia, though I have not as yet had time to examine it. Lime has never been made in this country, eioept in small quantities, by burning the choral obtained from the Sandwich islands. Bricks have been made to some enlfnt, and there are now two persons in the country who mwlerstand making them. There arc several mechanics in th^ colony, but, for the want of tools and materials, they do ^ attempt to carry on their business. There are nine car- p9P{tfers and two stcme masons in the settlement. There are tQ^tlements established upon the Willamette sixty-five miles from, .its mouth : at Palatine plains, twelve miles south of the Columbia, and twenty west of the Willamette falk ; at Clat- sop, plains, six miles south of the Columbia; and at the fi4U of the Willamette, a population of seventy, engaged in building storehouses, mills, &c. Here is a water power of veiy great extent. The river here takes a perpendicular do- scent of thirty-eight feet, presenting as extensive and advan- tageous sites for mills and factories as any where exist. At tho Clackamus, a small stream falling into the Willamette t«Ki miles below the falls, there is a population of twenty persons. This settlement commenced last fall ; it is seven TBV TKARfl nr OREGON. \^1 miles from the falls by land, and upon a pleasant and some what extensive prairie. At the Cowlitz, a somewhat rapid river, falling into the Columbia from the north, about fifty miles from its mouth, there is a small settlement of sixty-four persons, exjoying the benefits of the Catholic ministry. The face of the eoun- try upon the Cowlitz is generally level, the soil thin, and impregnated with magnesia, being less fertile than that cf. the Willamette valley. Your inquiry respecting the compar- ison between Oregon, from the Dalles to the Pacific — some two hundred and twenty miles — and the New England States, I am now somewhat better prepared to answer, hav- ing visited more of this country, and likewise most of the New England States. As a whole, in p^int of soil, I think it much better, having also greatly the advantage in climate, and vastly superior as a grazing country, the inhabitants not being obliged to winter their stock. I must close by praying that measures may be speedily entered into to take possession of this country, if such steps have not already been taken. I left home before the close of the session of congress, and by reason do not know what disposition was made of Mr. Linn's bill. As a reason for thus praying, I would here say, the time was when the gen- tlemen of the Hudson's Bay Company and the missions, wielded the entire influence over this small population ; but as they have been reinforced latterly from whale ships, the Rocky Mountains and the southwestern states, these hitherto salutary restraints and influences are giving way and being measurably lost. At present I have considerable influence, but cannot long expect to retain it, especially in the faithful discharge of my duty. As a reason for coming to such a conclusion, I had 198 TKH TSARS IN ORKOOK. but just arrived from tho interior when I received an urgent call to visit the mouth of the Columbia. I left at once, in company with Nathaniel Crocker, Esq., Mr. Rogers, my in- terpreter, his lady, and her young sister — the females going only to tho falls — with a crew of Indians, on our ill-fated ex- pedition. We reached the falls at sunset, February 1, and by reason of the water being higher than uiual, in passing around a jutting or projecting rock, the canoe was thrown up suddenly against a log constitutin/;; a landing, at which instant I stepped off, and in a moment the slender craft was •wept away, with all its precious cargo, over the perpendic- ular falls of thirty-eight feet, three rods below. The shock was dreadful to this infant colony, and the loss was irrepa- rable, Mr. Rogers being more important to me than any one in the country ; nor was there a more respectable or useful man west of the mountains. Nathaniel Crocker came in with me last fall from Tompkins county ; he was much pleas- ed with the country and its prospects, and the citizens were rejoiced at the arrival of such a man in the territory ; he was every way capacitated for usefulness. None of the bodies of the four whites or two Indians have been as yet found. For further particulars see letter to Mrs. White.^ * " On the First day of February, Mr. Crocker, Mr. Rogers and hia lady, who was once Satira Leslie, and her youngest sister, with myself and four Indians, were on our way to Astoria. We were passing down by a rock, to reach a log to pass to the shore, the water being very high and the current strong, the canon barely passed, giving space frr me to step on the log, when it began to drive. Esquire Crocker seized the end of the paddle, which I held, and each exerted ourselves to draw it to the log a second time, but it was in vain ; and in an instant, in spite of every effort of those on board, excepting the poor females, the canoe was hurled over the falls, and every soul, except two poor Indians, sent 14 - . r- w • TIM TKARB 19 OUQOK. IM • * • • * On iUTiving at the mouth of the Columbia, I found a sailor by the name of Qcorge Geere, who hiul most evidently and maliciously labored to instigate the Indians to take the life of one of the mission gentlemen, by the offer of five blankets. Complaints being made, and having no better means, I prevailed upon Governor McLaugh- lin to allow him to accompany their express across the moun- tains to the States. I would here say, as the scamp was nearly a fool, as well as a villain, I allowed him to go with- out sending evidence against him, on condition of his going voluntarily, and never returning. I here Ukewisc found a rash, venturesome character, about into eti'rnily. Chilled and motionlees with horror, I witnessed the drecitlful scene. They went down within four rods of me, Mrs. Rogen uttering a thrilling shriek as they passed over the falls. The two Indi- ans were saved by jumping overboard, and, seemingly against impos- sibilities, swimming to the shore through the rapids. This horrible dis- aster has filled the colony with consternation and deep afBiclion. Oh, what a sad blow to poor .Mrs. Crocker, and all his connexions. I pray God to sustain them. He had been spending the last two months at my house, and his mildness, condescension, and pleasant, agreeable manners, will never be forgotten. He was delighted with the country, and had bright hopes and cheering prospects, and was thinking of clo- sing a contract with O'Neal for his farm and all his herds, in a few days, under most advantageous circumstances, and intended to have his family out in a short time, as he saw the advantages of this coun- try in a clear and strong light. The hospitality and generosity of the people greatly pleased him, and on the other band he was univer- sally more than respected ; he was gaining upon the best aflections and kindest regards of the people, and seemed destined to be greatly es- teemed and beloved. » » * * i i^ope you will be at much pains to pour consolation, as far as kind attentions and soothing language go, into the heart of poor Mrs. Crocker." Pardon this digression. 260 TEN YEARS IV ORSaOV. starting off on a trading excursion, among a somewhat nu- merous band of Indians, and they nowise well disposed to- wards the whites. As he saw and felt no danger, argu- ments were unavailing, and threats only prevented. 6ir, shall men be allowed to go where they please, how- ever remote from the colony, and settle, under circumstan- ces that not only endanger their own personal safety, but the peace and safety of the whole white population? Please give me specific instructions respecting this matter. Though I have addressed you at some length, I should have brought more before you, and in a better manner, but (or incessant labor, care, and ill health. I have eight pris- oners on hand at present, for various crimes, principally stealing horses, grain, &c. ; and crimes are multiplying with numbers among the whites, and with scarcity of game with the Indians. No intelligence from abroad has reached us this wmter* Mount St. Helen, one of these snow-capped volcanic moun- tains, some sixteen thousand feet above the level of the sea, and eighty miles north-west of V.ancouver, broke out upon the 20th November last, presenting a scene the most awful and sublime imaginable, scattering smoke and ashes sev- eral hundred miles distance ; and in the mean time immense quantities of melted lava were rolling down its sides, and 'mandating the plains below. A petition started from this country to-day, making bitter complaints against the Hudson's Bay Company and Gov. McLaughlin. In referring to it — as a copy was denied — I shall only say, had any gentleman disconnected with the Hudson's Bay Company been at half the pains and expense to establish a claim to the Willamette falls, very few would TBK TEARS IH OREOOK. 201 have niiscd an opposition. His half bushel measure I know to be exact, according to the English imperial standard. The gentlemen of this company have been fathers and fos- terers of the colony, ever encouraging peace, industry and good order, and have sustained a character for hospitality and integrity too well established to be easily shaken. I am, sir, sincerely and most respectfully, your humble and obedient servant, ELIJAH WHITE, Sub-agent Indian Affairs, W. R. M. T. Hartley Crawford, Esq., Commissioner Indian Affairs. ?1 lii Mt Dear Brother — ^The kind letter our mission had the honor of receiving from yourself, making inquiries relative to its numbers, the character of the Indian tribes among whom its several stations are located, the country, etc, is now before me. The questions referring to Indian character are very impor- tant, and to answer them requires a more extensiA-e knowl- edge of character and habits, from personal daily observa- tion, than the short residence of six years can afford, and more time and attention than I can possibly command, amidst the numerous cares and labors of the station. I less regret this, as the latter will receive the attention of my better in- formed and worthy associates of the other stations. Concf • ning many of the questions, I can only give my own half-formed opinions, from limited observations, which have not extended far beyond the people of my immediate charge. Our mission is under the patronage of the A. B. C. F. M., and was commenced in the fall of 1836, by Marcus Whit- 4 202 TKN T&AKS IN ORKGON. man, M. D., and myself, ivith our wives, and Mr. Gray. Dr. Whitman was located at Waiilaptu, among the Keyuse Indians, twenty-five miles east of Fort Wallawalla, a trading post of tlie Hudson's Bay Company, which stands nine miles below the junction of Lewis and Clarke rivers, three hundred miles from the Pacific, and about two hundred miles fiom Fort Vancouver. I was located at this place, on the Clear- water or Koos-koos-ky river, twelve miles from its junction with the Lewis river, one hundred and twenty miles cast of Waiilaptu. Mr. Gray left the same winter, and returned to the states. In the fall of 1838, Mr. Gray returned to thb country, accompanied by Mrs. Gray, Messrs. Walker, Eells, and Smith, and their wives, and Mr. Rogei's. The next sea- son, two r.».w stations were commenced, one by Messrs. Walker and Eells at Cimakain, near Spokan river, among the Spokan Indians, one hundred and thirty-five miles northwest of this station, and sixty-five miles south of Fort Colville, on the Columbia river, three hundred miles above Fort Wal- lawalla ; the second by Mr. Smith, among the Nez Perces, sixty miles above the station. There arc now connected with this mission the Rev. Messrs. Walker and Eells, Mrs. Walker and Mrs. Eells, at Cimakain, myself and Mrs. Spalding at this station. Dr. Whitman is now on a visit to the states, and Mrs. Whitman on a visit to the Dalles, a station of our Methodist brethren. But two natives have as yet been ad- mitted into the church. Some ten or twelve others give pleasing evidence of having been born again. Concerning the schools and congregations on the Sabbath, I will speak only of this station. The congregation on the Sabbath varies at different seasons of the year, and must continue to do so until the people find a substitute in the fruits of the earth and herds for their roots, game, and fish, TEN TXARS HT ORKOOK. 203 ff J I which necessarily requires much wandering. I am happy to say that this people are very generally turning their at- tention, with much apparent eagerness, to cultivating the soil, and raising hogs, cattle and sheep, and find a much more abundant and agreeable source of subsistence in the hoe than in their bows and sticks for digging roots. For a few weeks in the fall, after the people return from their buffalo hunt, and then again in the spring, the congre- gation numbers from one thousand to two thousand. Through the winter, it varies from two hundred to eight hundred. From July to the Ist of October, it varies from two hundred to five hundred. The congregation, as also the school, in- creases every winter, as the quantity of provision raised in the vicinity is increased. Preparatory to schools and a permanent congregation, my earliest attention, on arriving in this country, was turned to- wards schools, as promising the most permanent good to the nation, in connexion with the written word of God and the preached gospel. But to speak of schools then was like speaking of the church bell, when as yet the helve is not put in the first axe by which the timber is to be felled, or the first stone laid in the dam which is to collect the water from whence the lumber in the edifice in which the bell is to give forth its sounds. Suffice it to say, through the blessing of God, we have had an increasingly large school for two winters past, with comparatively favorable means of instruc- tion. But the steps by which we have been brought to the pres- ent elevation, if I may so speak, though we are yet exceed- ingly low, began far, back among the days of nothing, and little to do with. Besides eating my own bread by the f «reat of my brow, 204 TEN TEARS IM OKEOOK. there were the wandering children of a necessarily wandering people to collect and bring permanently within the reach of the school. Over this department of labor hung the dark- est cloud, as the Indian is noted for despising manuel labor; but I would acknowledge, with humble gratitude, the inter- position of that hand which holds the hearts of all men. The hoe roon brought hope, light, and satisfaction, the fruits of which are yearly becoming much more than a sub- stitute for their former precarious game and roots, and are much preferred by the people, who are coming in from the mountains and plains, and calling for hoes, plows, and seeds, much faster than they can be furnished, and collecting around the station in increasing numbers, to cultivate their little farms, so furnishing a permanent school and congrega- tion on the Sabbath, from four to eight months. And as the farms are enlarged, giving employment and food for the year, I trust the school and congregation will be permanent through the year. It was no small tax on my time to give the first lessons on agriculture. That the first men of this nation — the first chiefs not excepted — ^rose up to labor when a few hoes and seeds were ofiered them, I can attribute to nothing but the unseen hand of the God of missions. That their habits are really changed is acknowledged by them- selves. The men say, whereas they once did not labor with their handc, no^7 they do ; and often tell me in jesting that I have converted them into a nation of women. They are a very industrious people, and, from very small beginnings, they now cultivate their lands with much skill and to good advantage. Doubtless many more would cultivate, but for the want of means. Your kind donation of fifty hoes, in be- half of the governirent, will be most timely ; and should you be able to send up the plows you kindly proposed, they ns TXAna xv o&Booir. 205 will, without doubt, be purchased immediately, md put to the best use. But to rctuiTi to the school. It now numbers two hun- dred and twenty-five in daily attendance, half of which are adults. Nearly all the principal men and chiefs in this vicin- ity, with one chief fron» :x neighboring tribe, are members of the school. A new imrulse was given to the school by the warm interest you and Mr. McKay took in it while you were here. They are as industric as in school as they are on their farms. Their improvement is astonishing, considering their crowded condition, and only Mrs. Spalding, with her deli- cate constitution and her family cares, for their teacher. About one hundred are printing their own books with a pen. This keeps up a deep interest, as they daily have new lessons to print, and what ihay print must be committed to memory as soon as possible. A good number are now so far advanced in reading and printing as to render much assistance in teaching. Their books are taken home at nights, and every lodge becomes a school room. Their lessons are scripture lessons — no others, except the laws, seem to interest them. I send you a specimen of the books they print in school. It was printed by ten select adults, yet it is a fair specimen of a great number in the school. The laws which you so happily prepared, and which were unanimously adopted by the people, I have printed in the i'orm of a small school book. A great number of the school now read them fluently. I send you a few copies of the laws, with no apologies for the imperfect manner in which they are executed. Without doubt, a school of nearly the same number oould be ooUeeiod at Kimiah, the station above 206 TKN TSARS IN ORBGOV. this, vacated by Mr. Smith, the present residence of Ellis, the principal chief. Number who cultivate. — ^Last season ahout one hundred and forty cultivated from one-fourth of an acre to four or five acres each. About half this number cultivate in the valley. One chief raised about one hundred and seventy-six bushels of peas lust season, one hundred of com, and four hundred of potatoes. Another one hundred and fifty of peas, one hundred and sixty of com, a large quantity of vegetables, potatoes, etc. Ellis, I believe, raised rather more than either of the above mentioned. Some forty other individuals raised from twenty to one hundred bushels of various grains. Eight individuals are now furnished with plows. Thirty- two head of cattle arc possessed by two individuals ; tea sheep by four ; £cme forty hogs. Arts and sciences. — Mrs. Spalding has instructed ten fe- males in knitting, a majority of the female department in the schools in sewing, six in carding and spinning, and three in weaving. Should our worthy brother and sister, Mr. and Mrs. Littlejohn, join us soon, as is now expected, I trust, by the blesEing of God, we shall see greater things than we have yet seen. From what I have seen in the field, the school, the spinning and weaving room, in the prayer room, and Sabbath congregation, I am fully of the opinion that this people are susceptible of high moral and civil improve- ment. Moral character of the people. — On this point there is a great diversity of opinion. One writer styles them more a nation of saints than of savages ; and if tl;eir refusing to move camp for game, at his suggestion, on a certain day, re- minded him that the Sabbath extended as far west as the Rocky Mountains, he might well consider them such. An- -,»,. TSN TKARS IN ORFGOV. 207 other styles them supremely selfish, which is nearer the truth ; for, without doubt, they are the descendants of Adam. What I have above stated is evidently a part of the bright side of their character. But there is also a dark side, in which I have sometimes taken part. I must, however, con- fess that when I attempt to name it, and hold it up as a marked exception to a nation in similar circumstances, with- out the restraint of wholesome laws, and strangers to the hoaven-born fruits of cnUghtened and well-regulated society, I am not able to do it. Faults they have, and very great ones, yot few of them seemed disposed to break the Sabbath by travelling and other secular business. A very few indulge in something like profane swearing. Very few are super- stitiously attached to their medicine men — who are, without doubt, sorcerers — and supposed to be leagued with a super- natural baing — wakin — who :hows himself sometimas in the gray bear, the wolf, the swan, goose, wind, clouds, etc. Lying is very common ; thieving comparatively rare ; po- lygamy formerly common, bat now rare ; much gambling among the young men ; quarrelling and fighting quite rare ; habit of taking back property after it is sold is a practice quite common, and very evil in its tendency. Ail these evils, I conceive, can bo traced to the want of whrlesorae laws and well-regulated society. There are two traits in the char- acter of this people I wish to notice. One I think I can ac- count for ; the other I cannot. It is often said the Indian is a noble minded being, never forgetting a kindness. So far >i3 my experience has gone with this people, the above is most emphatically time, but in quite a different sense from the idea there conveyed. It is true they never forget a kindness, but often make it an occasion to ask another ; and if refused, return insults recording to the favors received. My cxperi- imp 208 TBK TSARS IN ORBOOH. once has taught me that, if I would keep the friendship of an Indian, and do him good, I must show him no more favor in the way of pi-operty than what he returns some kind of an equivalent for ; most of our trials have arisen from this source. I am, however, happy to feel that there is a mani- fest improvement as the people become more instructed, and we become more acqiiainted with their habits. This offen- sive trait in the Indian character I believe, in part, should be charged to the white man. It has been the universal prac- tice of all the white men to give tobacco, to name no other article to Indians when they ask for it. Hence two very natural ideas — one is, that the white man is in debt to them ; the other is, that in proportion as a white man is a good man he will discharge this debt by giving bountifully of his provisions and goods. This trait in Indian character is capa- ble of being turned to the disadvantage of traders, travel- lers, and missionaries, by prejudiced white men. The last trait, which I cannot account for, is an apparent disregard for the rights of white men. Although their ea- gerness to receive instruction in the school on the Sabbath and on the form is without a parallel in my knowledge, still, should a reckless fellow from their own number, or even a stranger, make an attack on my life and property, I have no evidence to suppose but a vast majority of them would look on with indifference, and see our dwelling burnt to the ground and our heads severed from our bodies. I cannot reconcile this seeming want of gratitude with their many encoura- ging characteristics. But to conclude this subject, should our unprofitable lives, through a kind Providence, be spared a few years, by the blessing of the God of missions, we ex- pect to see this people christianized to a great extent, civili- zed, and happy, with much of science and the word of God, 1 1 1 r ti TXX riARS IN ORKQON. 209 I )ud many of the comforts of life ; but not without many days of hard labor, and sore trials of disappointed hopes, and nameless perplexities. The number of this people is variously estimated from two thousand to four thousand. I cannot give a correct esti- mate. At this station there is a dwelling house, a school house, store house, flour and saw mills — all of a rough kind — fif- teen acres of land under improvement, twenty-foiir head of cattle, thirty-six horses, sixty-seven sheep. Rev. Messrs. Walker and Ellis, I hope, will report of Waiilaptu ; but should they fiul, I will say, as near as I can recollect, about tifty acres of land arc cultivrted by some seventy individu- als ; a much greater number of cattle and hogs than among this people. Belonging to the station, thirty -four head of cattle, eleven horses, some forty hogs ; one dwelling house of Dobbie's — well furnished — a blacksmith's shop, flour mill — ^lately destroyed by fire — and some forty acres of land cul- tivated. Arable land. — ^The arable land in this upper country is confined almost exclusively to the small streams, although further observation may prove that many of the extensive rolling prairies are capable of producing wheat. They can become inhabited only by cultivating timber ; but the rich growth of buffalo grass upon them will ever furnish an in- exhaustible supply for inumcrable herds of cattle and sheep. [ know of no country in the world so well adapted to the herding system. Cattle, sheep, and horses, are invariably healthy, and produce rapidly ; sheep usually twice a year. The herding system adopted, the country at first put under regulations adapted to the scarcity of habitable places — say that no settlers shall be allowed to take up over twenty acres 14 210 TBN TEARS lit ORKOOV. of land on the streams — and the country without doubt will sustain a great population. I am happy to feel assured that the United States government have no other thought than to regard the rights and wants of the Indian tribes in thui country. And while the agency of Indian affairs in this country re- mains in the hands of the present agent, I have the fullest conGdencc to believe that the reasonable expectations in ref- erence to the intercourse between whites and Indians will be fully realized by every philanthropist and every Christian. But as the Indian population is sparse, after they are abun- dantly supplied, there will be re.naining country sufficient for an extensive white population. The thought of removing these tribes, that the country may come wholly in the possession of the whites, can never for a moment enter into the mind of a friend of the red man, for two reasons, to name no other : first, there are but two coimtries to which they can be removed, the Grave and the Blackfoot, between which there is no choice ; second, the countless millions of salmon which swarm the Columbia and its tributaries, and furnish a very great proportion of the sus- tenance of the tribes who dwell upon these numerous waters, and a substitute for which can nowhere be found east or west of the Rocky Mountains, but in herds or cultivating their own land. Habitable valleys. — Many of the following valleys I have extensively examined ; with others I am more or less ac- quainted from information. The river Deshutes, putting into the Columbia river, near the Dalles, from the south, contains, without doubt, considerable tillable land. The same can be said of John Day's river, another tributary of the Columbia river, from the south, forty miles above the former. The tKN TBARB IK OREOOW. 21) ! Utilla, another south bmnch, twenty-five miles below Wallft walla, contains a great quantity of arrable land, perhaps suf- ficient for one hundred and fifty families. The Wallawalla, another south branch, evidently contains more tillable land, including its many branches, than any other stream in the upper country. I judge that three hundred and fifty fami- lies could comfortably locate on thia river and its branohee. I speak of white families. Probably it would susUun three times that number of Indian families, as they will always live more or less upon fish. The mission station of Dr. Whitman, among the Keyuse, is on the upper waters of the Wallawalla. The Wallawalla river proper probably may be cultivated for thirty miles; the Tusha, its principal branch, perhaps for fifty miles ; the Sataksnima, a small branch, fif- teen miles. On the Tshimnap, Okanagan, and some other rivers coming into the Columbia river from the west, there is said to be more or less tillable land. The Tuckanan, a south branch of the Snake river, some seventy miles above its mouth, contains some land apparently of the best quality. It resembles a piece in this valley, which has produced one thousand four hundred bushels of potatoes to the acre. The tillable land extends up the Tuckanan, twelve miles, and about five up the Pataha, a branch. Probably sixty families coi:!a locate here. This is a favorable location for a settle- ment, by reason of the advantages of the large river for transportation and rafting timber. The Paluse, putting in from the opposite side of the Tuckanan, contains some good land. This valley — ^Lapwai — will probably settle two hun- dred and fifty families of Indians. Most of the land is al- ready taken up. Yacktoin, putting in from the opposite side, three miles above this, will settle as many more. There arc said to be several other valleys between this and th« Slf TKBT rSAIUS IS OREOOIT. mottntains, containing arable land. The Grand Round i» a beautiful pluin, fifty miles in circuit, on the route from fort Boisi to Wallawalla, probably uU susceptible of cultivation. It is surrounded by mountains and may be frosty. About forty miles southeast of this is another rich valley, of some thirty-five miles in length, interspersed with large plats of white clover, through which a beautiful lake pours its cold waters in a rapid river, which unites with the Grand Round, •ad forms the Wailua, a Iwanch of the Snake river. There •re three or four other considerable streams putting into the Snake river above this, from the south, on two or three of which there are said to be large fertile plains. I know of but very little arable land in the vicinity of Salmon river. On the Shuhspalanima and Quaicksnima, two considerable branches of the Snake river, above Salmon, there is said to be some good land. Dr. Whitman writes me from fort Hall, saying that in his journey to that place he travelled some ifty miles up the Boisi river, and thinks there is more good lend on it than on any other stream with which he is ae^ quainted in this upper country. There is an extensive red clover plain, commencing about fkn miles south of this station, which I think would pro- duce •■ but there is no timber, and very little water. Doubt- less many other arable valleys will show themselves, as the ooimtry becomes more thoroughly explored. Your humble servant, H. H. SPALDING, Da. WHrm, Agent of Indian Afifairs west of the Rocky Mountans. rair TKARS IN ORAGOK^ 213 CHAPTER XX. Excitement among the Indians — Difierent viewa of the alanned whitea — Another journey — State of the Indiana — Mr. Spalding*! atation — Nez Pt-rcea — Keyuses and Wallawailas — Preaence of the woman at the feust — Peace— Viait the Dalles — Course of the agent — Laws of the whites — ^Immigrating party — Willamette valley — Gov. McLangh- liii — False reports — Schools — Mission claim — ^Mr. Lee — Inatmetiom to immigranta — Oregon Inatitnte — Lettera. Willamette Valley, Oregon, Nov. 15, 1843. Honored Sir — Since my arrival, I have had the honor of addresang you some three or four communications, the last of which left early in April, conveyed by the Hudson's Bay Company's express over the Rocky Mountains, via. Can- ada, which I hope and judge was duly received. Immediately after this, I received several communications from missionaries of the interior, some from the Methodists, and those sent out by the American board, representing th« Indians in the interior as in a great state of excitement, and under much apprehension from the circumstance that such number of whites were coirang in, as they were informed, to take possession of their land and country. The excitement soon became general, both among whites and Indians, in this lower as well as upper district ; and such were the constantly floating groundless reports, that much uneasiness was felt^ and some of our citizens were under sueh a state of appre- hensions as to abandon their houses, and place themselves more immediately within the precincts of the colony. A* in all such cases, a variety of opinions were entertained and m TSN TEARS IN OREGON. ( .. expz-cssed — some pleading for me, at the expense of the gen - eml government, to throw up a strong fortification in the centre of the colony, and furnisli the settlers with guns and ammunition, so that we might be prepared for extremities. Others thought it more advisable for me to go with an armed force of considerable strength to the heart and centre of the conspiracy, as it was represented, and if words will not an- swer, make power and balls do it. A third party entertain- ed different views, and few were really agreed on any one measure. As may be imagined, I felt the awkwardness of my posi- tion ; but, without stopping to consult an agitated populace, selected a sensible clergyman and a single attendant, with ray interpreter, and so managed as to throw myself imme- diately into their midst unobserved. The measure had the desired effect — though, as in my report I will more fully in- form you, had like to have cost me my life. The Indians flocked around me, and inquired after my par- ty, and could not be persuaded, for some time, but tliat I had a large party concealed somewhere near, and only wait- ed to get them convened, to open a fire upon, and cut them all off at a blow. On convincing them of my defencclesa condition and pacific intentions, they were quite astounded and much affected, assuring me they had been under strong apprehensions, having learned I was soon to visit them with a large armed party, with hostile intentions, and I actually found them suffering more from fears of war from the whites, than the whites from the Indians — each party resolving, however, to remain at home, and there fight to the last — though, fortunately, some three or four hundred miles apart. The day following wo left these Wallawallas and Keyuses, TXN TEARS IN OREGON. 215 to pay a visit to tbe Nez Peices, promising to call on oar re- turn, and enter into a treaty of amity, if wc could agree on the terms, and wished them to give general notice to all con- cerncd, of both tribes. In two days we were at Mr. Spalding's station. The Nez Perces came together in greater numbers than on any for- mer occasion for years, and all the circumstances combining to favor it, received us most cordially. Tlieir improvement during the winter, in reading, writing, etc., was considera- ble, and the enlargement of their plantations, with the in- creased variety and quantities of the various kinds of grains and products now vigorously shooting forth, connected v.ith the better state of cultivation and their universally good fen- ces, were certainly most encouraging. Spending some days with this interesting tribe, and their devoted missionaries, in the plcasantcst manner, they accept- ed my invitation to visit with me the Kcyuscs and Wallawal- las, and assist by their influence to bring them into the same regulation they had previously adopted, and with which all were so well pleased. Mr. Spak'ing and Ellis, the high chief, with every othei chief and brave of importance, and some four or five hun- dred of the men and their women, accompanied us to Waii- laptu. Dr. Whitman's station, a distance of a hundred and twenty miles, where we met the Key uses and Wallawalla.s in mass, and spent some five or six days in getting matters adjusted and principles settled, so as to receive the Kcyuscs into the oivil compact ; which being done, and the high chief elected, much to the satisfaction of both whites and Indians, I ordered two fat oxen killed, and wheat, salt, etc., distrib- uted accordingly. «****• This was the first feast at which the Indian women of thin 216 TEN TEARS IN OREGON. country were ever permitted to be present, but probably will not be the last ; for, after some explanation oi my rea- sons, the chiefs were highly pleased with it ; and I believe more was done at that feast to elevate and bring forward their poor, oppressed women than coiild have been done in years by private instruction. The feast broke up in the happiest manner after Five- Crows, the Keyuse chief, Ellis, and the old war chief of whom I made particular mention in my last report as being 80 well acquainted with Clarke, and a few others, had made their speeches, and we had smoked the pipe of peace, which was done by all in great good humor. From this, we proceeded to the Dalles on the Columbia river, where I spent two months in instructing the Indians of different tribes, who either came in mass, or sent ambas- sadors to treat with me, or, as they denominate it, take my laws, which are thus far found to operate well, giving them greater security among themselves, and helping much to regulate their intercourse with the whites. Being exceed- ingly anxious to bring about an improvement and refonna- tion among this people, I begged money and procured arti- cles for clothing to the amount of a few hundred dollars, not to be given, but to be sold out to the industrious women, for mats, baskets, and their various articles of manufacture, in order to got them clothed comfortably to appear at church : enlisted the cheerful co-operation of the mission ladies in in- structing them how to sew and make up their dresses ; and had the happiness to see some twenty of these neatly clad at divine service, and a somewhat larger number out in the hap- piest mood to a feast I ordered them, at which tl mission ladies and gentlemen were present. During these two months I labored hard, visiting many TEN TSARS IN OREGON. 217 of their sick daily ; and by the most prompt and kind atten- tion, and sympathizing with them in their affliction, encour- aging the industrious and virtuous, and frowning in language and looks upon the vicious, I am satisfied good was done. They gave evidence of attachment ; and my influence was manifestly increased, as well as the laws more thoroughly understood, by reason of my remaining feo long among them. During my up-country excursion, the whites of the colo- ny convened, and formed a code of laws to regulate intcr- coui se between themselves during the absence of law from our mother country, adopting in almost all respects the Iowa code. In this I was consulted, and encouraged the meas- ure, as it was so manifestly necessary for the collection of debts, securing rights in claims, and the regulation of gen- eral intercourse among the whites. Thus far, these laws have been of some force and impor- tance, answering well in cases of trespass and the collec- tion of debts ; but it is doubtful how they would succeed in criminal affairs, especially if there should happen to be a division of sentiment in the public mind. The Indians of this lower country, as was to be expected, give considerable trouble, and are most vexatious subjects to deal with. In mind the weakest and most depraved of their race, and physically, thoroughly contaminated with the scrofula, and a still more loathsome disease entailed by the whites ; robbed of their game and former means of cover- ing ; lost to the use of the bow and arrow ; laughed at, scoffed, and contemned by the whites, and a hiss and by- word to the surrounding tribes^ they are too dejected and depressed, to feel the least pleasure in their former amuse- ments, and wander about seeking generally a scanty pittance by begging and pilfering, but the more ambitious and des- 218 TEN TEARS IN OREGON. perate among them stealing, and in some instances plunder- ing on a large scale. Were it not that greater forbearance is exercised towards them than whites generally exercise, bloodshed, anarchy, and confusion would reign predominant among us. But, thus far, it is but just to say, the Indians have been, in almost every instance, the aggressors ; and though none of us now apprehend an Indian war or inva- sion, it appears to me morally impossible that general quiet can long be secure, unless government take almost immedi- ate measures to relieve the anxieties and better the condition of these poor savages and other Indians of this country. I am doing what I can, by reason of my profession, with lend- ing them all the assistance possible in sickness, and sympa- thizing with them in their numerous afflictions, and occa- sionally feeding, feasting, and giving them little tokens of kind regard, have as yet considerable influence over them, but have to punish some, and occasion the chiefs to punish more, which creates me enemies, and must eventuate in les- sening my influence among them, unless the means are put in my hands to sustain and encourage the chiefs and well- disposed among them. Qood words, kind looks, and medi- cine, have some power ; but, honored and very dear sir, you and / know they do not tell with Indians like blankets and present articles, to meet their tastes, wants, and necessities. Sir, I know how deeply anxious you are to benefit and save what can be of the withering Indian tribes, in which God knows how fully and heartily I am with you, and earnestly pray you, and through you our general government, to take immediate measures to satisfy the minds, and, so far as pos- sible, render to these Indians an equivalent for their once nu- merous herds of deer, elk, bufliilo, beaver, and otter, nearly as tame as our domestic animals, previously to the whites and TEH TEARS IN OREGOlf. 219 their fire arms coming among them, and of which tliey are now stripped, and for which they suffer. But, if nothing can he done for them on this score, pray save them from be- ing forcibly ejected from the hinds and graves of their fath- ers, of which they befjin to entertain serious fears. Many are becoming considerably enlightened on the subject of the white man's policy, and begin to quake in view of their fu- ture doom ; and come to me from time to time, anxiously in- quiring what they are to receive for such an one coming and cutting oflF all their most valuable timber, and floating it to the fulls of the Willamette, and getting large sums for it ; some praying the removal of licentious whites from among them ; others requiring pay for their old homestead, or a re- moval of the intruders. So, sir, you see already I have my hands, head and heart full ; and if as yet I have succeeded in giving satisfaction — as many hundreds that neither know nor care for me, nor regard in the least the rights of the In- dians are now flocking in — something more must be done, and that speedily, or a storm ensues. I remove all licentious offenders from among them, espe- cially if located a distance from the colony, and encourage the community to keep within bounds, and settle as com- pactly as the general interest and duty to themselves will admit. The large immigrating party have now arrived, most of them with their herds, having left the wagons at Wallawalla and the Dalles, which they intend to bring by land or water to the Willamette in the spring. Whether they succeed in getting them through by land the last sixty miles is doubt- ful, the road not having been as yet well explored. They are greatly pleased with the country and its prospects, Mr. A pplcgate, who has been so much in government employ i 220 TEN TEARS IN ORBOON. % and surveyed sucb portions of the Missouri, says of this val- ley, it is a country of the greatest beauty and the finest soil he has seen. Having visited larger portions, and in different directions, the last summer than heretofore — principally in the moun- tainous parts between this and the Dalles — I am most cheer- ful in saying I have not seen a country presenting such a variety of beautiful scenery, and possessing, at the same time, such advantages of timber, water, strength of soil, and mildness of climate ; and, as to health, having visited six- teen of the United States, the Sandwich islands, with some other portions of the earth, I must say, after practising med- icine somewhat extensively for the last six years, I regard it the most healthy country with which I am acquainted ; diis- cases the least numerous in class, and simple in character, being entirely under the control of proper remedies. The settlers are actively and vigorously employed, and the colony in a most prosperous state ; crops of every kind hav- ing been unusually good this season. The little unhappy difference between the American settlei's and the Hudson's Bay Company, arising from the last spring's petition to our government, has been healed, and we have general quiet — both parties conducting very properly towards each other dl present. And here allow me to say, the seasonable service in which hundreds of dollars were gratuitously expended in assisting such numbers of our poor emigrant citizens down the Columbia to the Willamette, entitle Gov. McLaughlin, saying nothing of his previous fatherly and fostering care of this colony, to the honorable consideration of the member* of this government. And I hope, as he is desirous to settle with his family in this country, and has made a claim at the falls of the Willamette, his claim will be honored in such a TSS rSARS IK OREOOir. 221 manner as to make him conscious that wc, as a nation, arc not insensible to his numerous acts of benevolence and hos- pitality towards our countrymen. Sir, in the midst of slan- der, envy, jealousy, and, in too many instances, of the black- est ingratitude, his unceasing, never tiring hospitality affects mc, and makes him appear in a widely different light than too many would have him and his worthy associates appear be- fore the world. The last year's report, in which was incorporated Mr. Linn's Oregon Speech and Captain Spalding's statements of hundreds of unoffending Indians being shot down annually by men under his control, afflicts the gentlemen of the Hud- son's Bay Company, and is utterly without foundation — no company or gentlemen ever having conducted more judi- ciously among Indians than th^^y uniformly have done in this country ; and I am of the Governor's opinion, who declares, openly, there have not ten Indians been killed by whites in this whole region west of Fort Hall, for the last twenty years, nor do I know of that number, and two of those were killed by our citizens. What were destroyed by the Hud- son's Bay Company suffered for wilful murder, none pre- tending a doubt of the propriety of the course adopted. There are now four schools kept in the colony, of which I shall speak more fully in my annual report — one at the Pal- atine Plains, under the direction and aunpices of the Rev. Mr. Clark, a self-supporting missionary ; a second — French and English — school, is in successful operation by Mr. Blan- chette, Roman Catholic missionary to this colony ; a third is well supported by the citizens, and kept at the falls of the Willamette ; a fourth — boarding and manual labor — sustain- ed by the Methodist board of missions, for the benefit of In- dian youth, of which Mr. Lee will speak particularly. The ( 222 tfiK T£AaS IN OREOOiT. location is hcultby, eligible, and beautiful, and the noble ed ifice does honor to the benevolent cause and agents that founded it. And while here, allow me to say Mr. Jesse Ap- plegate, from Missouri, is now surveying the mission claim, a plan of which will be presented to the consideration of the members of our government, for acceptance or otherwise, of which I have but little to say, as I entertain no doubt Mr. Lee's representation will be most faithful. Should the ground of his claim be predicated upon the much effected for the benefit of the Indians, I am not with him ; for, with all that has been expended, without doubting the cor- rectness of the Intention, it is most manifest to every observer that the Indians of this lower country, as a whole, have been very little benefitted. They were too far gone with scrofula and venereal. But should he insist, as a reason of his claim, the benefit arising to the colony and country, I am with him heartily ; and notwithstanding the claim is a valuable one, this country has been increased more by the mission opera- tions, than twice its amount in finance ; besides, much has been done in advancing civilization, temperance, literature, and good morals, saying nothing of the evils that must have arisen in this lawless country in the absence of all moral re- straint. Mr. Lee was among the first pioneers to this distant land, has struggled in its cares, toils, and trials, has risen with its rise ; and it is but just to say, he and his associates are exerting a considerable and most salutary influence all abroad among us. I hope his reception will be such that he will return from Washington cheered and encouraged to pursue his benevolent operations in this country. The Cath- olic and the different Protestant missions have been pros- perous during the last year, and are as generally acceptabU' TSK TBARS IN OREO OK. 223 to the whites as could, from their different pursuits, be ex- pected. • « • « « « « In closing, allow mc to say, for the instruction and en- couragement of immigrants : — Come light, save with provis- ions, and travel compactly. Heed this last injunction by all means, so far at least as not less than 6fty to be foxind aloof from the main camp, and you will save voui-selvcs from dan- ger and wrong, and the Indians from temptation and guilt. Last spring I addressed a communication to the present im- migrating party, meeting them at Fort Hall, urging upon them, from a variety of considerations, the same directions. a part only of whom followed them — others came strolling along in little bands of from two to six, and, as was to be expected, scarcely any escaped without being robbed and pillaged. Such conduct is highly censurable, as it tends directly to encourage and embolden the Indians to their hurt and our ruin. By travelling compactly, and treating the Indians kindly, but with proper reserve, and at all times keeping a vigilant watch, no danger is to be apprehen- ded to person or property ; but without these regula- tions there is danger. Have no apprehension of want ; it is a land of plenty ; and, after a long and well contested debate, a few months since, at our Oregon lyccum, it was unanimously voted, that the colony of Willamette held out the most flattering encouragement to immigrants of any col- ony on the globe. Great expectations are entertained, from the fact that Mr. Linn's bill has passed the senate ; and as it has been so long before the public, and fiivorably entertained at Washington, should it at last fail of passing the lower house, suffer me to predict, in view of what so many have had to undergo, in person and property, to get to this dis 224 TEX TEARS IN OREGON. Umt country, it ^viU create a disaffection so strong as to end only in open rebellion ; whereas, should it pass into a law, it will be regarded as most liberal and handsome, and will bo appreciated by most, if not all in Oregon. As to tlic claim for the Oregon institute, I need say no- thing, having said enough in my last report; but, as that may have failed in reaching, I would just remark, that, the location is a healthy one, and the site fine, with prospect charmingly varied, extensive and beautiful. I leave this subject with Mr. Lee and the members of our iibenil government, not doubting but that all will be done for this institute, and otherwise, that can be, and as soon as practicable, to lay deep and broad the foundation of science and literature in this country. And here I must close, as Mr. Lee is already sixty niilea on his way, but not without saying I am much obliged in getting your last report, which reached me a few weeks since, and shall feel still more obliged and honored in getting a communication from your own pen, enlightening, correct- ing, encouraging, or admonishing me, in my new and diffi- cult work, and certainly most awkward position, in which, as yet, I have succeeded better with both whites and Indians than I expected, and can but hope some good has been ef- fected by my appointment, especially to the latter. As my former worthy interpreter is dead, allow me to pray the appointment of Ellis, the high chief of the Nez Per- ces, in his stead, who is not only versed in his own tongue and the Wallawallas, but an English scholar, and a man of sense. As he is so well regarded, his appointment will have a good influence both among whites and Indians. I have kept within limit of the three hundred dollars for interpreters the last year, being under the necessity of paying M C V c b {( y C( n< tl ^ i ft^fflSfl^P- '^'' TXN TKARfl IN ORKGON. 225 one hundred and eightj dollars for sixty days' service nt one time, and in no instance short of a dollar per day, though I hire as I want, and dismiss at once on closing present busi- ness — this heing the only way I could hope to give the de- partment satisfaction, in view of the mxiltiplicity of tribes and languages this side the moimtains. I have sent for and been hourly expecting my bills from Vancouver, but, from dome cause unknown to me, they have not yet reached, and by this reason I am prevented sending at this time my quar- terly report of expenditure — a circumstance I regret, and did not expect; but, aside from interpreter, travelling expenses, and for office contingencies, it is small, and shall be forwarded at my earliest convenience. The sum allowed for feeding and feasting Indians, as provisions are very high — beef be- ing worth from five to seven dollars per hundred, pork from eight to ten dollars, wheat, corn, barley, and peas, a dollar, and potatoes forty cents — proves hardly sufiicicnt to give satisfaction. The erection of my little office, at the expense of two hundred and twenty-five dollars, I hope and trust, with my actual travelling expenses, will be paid. If this cannot be done consistently, pray call me home at once. As I notified you in ray report, I cannot sell drafts paya- ble in Washington, and await your order to draft on London for at least one thousand dollars per annum, as, for the last year, for interpreter and my travelling expenses, with office contingencies and presents to Indians, I have been under the necessity of drafting more from Vancouver than I expected — the Indian excitement and threatened invasion rendering this unavoidable. Respectfully yours, ELIJAH WHITE, Sub- Agent Indian Affairs, W. R. M. Hon. J. M. PoBXj», Secretary of War. 15 229 ncH TEARfl IV ontaon. Willamette, March 18, 1844. Sir — On the evening of the first February, the two fol- lowing letters came to mc, finding me in the upper settle- ment of the Willamette, distance forty miles : Willamette Falls, Jannarr 24, 1844. " Dear Sir — ^The undersigned would take this occasion to inform you that there has been of late in this place some few cases of intoxication from the effects of ardent spirits. It is currently reported that it is distilled in this place, and the undersigned have good reason to credit such reports. Whilst, therefore, the undersigned will not trouble you, sir, with a detailed exposition of the facts, they must be permit • ted to express their deliberate conviction that that which has inflicted so much injury upon the morals, the peace, and the happiness of the world, ought not to be permitted to be manufactured in this country under any circumstances. And your attention is respectfully invited to this subject. "We have the honor to be, dear sir, "PETER H. HATCH, President. "A. F. LOVEJOY, Vice President. "A. F. WALIiER, Secretary. "Dr. E. White, Sub- Agent of Indian Affairs for Oregon Territory. " Willamette Falls, January 26. 1844. "Dear Sir — ^I do not know but you have been written to already on the subject which is the cause of no inconsid- erable excitement at this place, viz : — ^The manufacture and use of that most degrading, withering, and damning of all the causes that has ever visited our race since the fall of TCM YEARS IN ORSOOIT. in Adam. As much as we regret it, deplore it, and anathema- tize the man who made it, it is nevertheless made, and men, or rather biped brutes, get dnmk. Now, we believe if there is any thing that calls your attention in your official capacity, or any thing in which you would be most cordially support ed by the good sense and prompt action of the better part of the community, it is the present case. We do not wish to dictate, but hope for the best, begging pardon for intmuoiui. " I am, dear sir, yours truly, W. H. WILSON, "R White, Sub- Agent Oregon Territoiy." of ^^^»^ '•:■>■ ■■*'■ tfS raw TEAES IN OREffOiT, CHAPTER XXI, i(«IMActwi:« of lii;pu>ra — Breaking up a distillery — Conduct of Corft- ||bf«](,, a,tx lodiitn — ^Affray — Killing of Cockatoo k—Peatha from poi' •^(ifd tufrav* — Interview with the Indiana — Previous frightful affair with Cockstock — Alarming visit of fift.>en Indians — Cold Blooded murder — Presents to Cockstock's widow — Protection required — Let- ter from Mr. Hinea — Meeting of the legislative body — Resolution — Unhappy aflfrajr — Conduct in courts — Resources of the country — Soil of Oregon — Arrival of Rev. Mr. Dennitt, nuns and priests — Port — Exports— Imports — Tour — Schools — Quiet among the Indians — Note from Mr. Littlejohn — Fidelity of the Indians — Reasons for pre- venting the sale of liquor — Enactment of the legislative committee of Oregon — An act to provide ways and means. I ACCORDINGLY left at sunrise on the following morning.and reached the falls a* sunset. Without delay, I secured the criminal and his distillery, brol^e his apparatus, and buried it in the Willamette river. I put the aggressor under bonds, in the strongest penalty the nature of the case would admit, three hundred dollars — few being willing to be his bondmen even for this amount. Mr. Pettygrove, a merchant of good habits and character, being accused of keeping and selling wine and brandy, I searched, and found, as he had acknowledged, a half gallon of brandy, and part of a barrel of port wine, which has been used and occasionally parted with only for medicinal purpo- ses ; and, to avoid all appearance of partiality, I required the delivery of the brandy and wine on the delivery of the en- cloeed bond, which was most cheerfully and cordially given — ■■•c!!^^~'r'--^iirr-r: TEN TEARS IK OREO OX. SM nmount one thousand dollars. I seai*ched every suspicion place thoroughly, aided by the citizens, but found no ardent spirits or wine in the colony. Since this period, no attempt has been made to make, introduce or vend liquors ; and the great majority of tho colonists come warmly to my support in this matter, proflfering their aid to keep this bane from our community. On the evening of February 29, I received the followii^ communication, accompanied by corroboratory statements from Mr. Foster, of Oregon city : " Willamette Falls, February 16, 1844. " Sir — I beg leave to inform you that there is an Indian about this place, by the name of ' Cockstock/ who is in the habit of making continual threats against the settlers in this neighborhood, and who has also murdered several Indians lately. He has conducted himself lately in so outrageous a manner, that Mr. Winslow Anderson has considered himeetf in personal danger, and on that account has left his place, and come to reside at the falls of the Willamette ; and were I ia circumstances that I could possibly remove from my place, I would certainly remove also, but am so situated ilwt it is not possiblf for me to do so. I beg, therefore, that you, sir, will take into consideration the propriety of ridding the coxmtry of a villian, against the depradations of whom none can be safe, as it is impossible to guard agamst the lurking attacks of the midnight murderer. I have therefore taken the liberty of informing you that I shall be in expeotatioA of a decided answer from you on or before the 10th of March next ; after that date I shall consider myself justified in act- ing as I shall see fit, on any repetition of the threats made *|Q' 230 TEN TEARS IN ORKOOK. bj the before-mentioned Indian or hb r^rty. I am, &c., with respect, "JAMES D. SAULES. ♦*Dr. E. White, Superintendent, &c." As I well knew all the individuals concerned, I resolved to repair immediately to the spot, and, if possible, secure the Indian without bloodshed, as he was connected with some of the most formidable tribes in this part of the terri- tory, though a very dangerous and violent character. Ac- cordingly, I started, and reached the falls the following even- ing, collected a party to repair to the spot, and secure him whilst asleep, knowing that he would not submit to be taken a prisoner without resistance. The evening was stormy, and the distance some eight ailles, through thick wood and fal- len timber, with two bad streams to cross. Being on foot, my party declined the attempt till morning — a circumstance I much regretted ; yet, having no military force, I was com- pelled to yield. In the morning I headed the party of ten men to take this Indian, who had only five adherents, in hopes to surprise and secure him without fighting — enjoin- ing my men, from many considerations, not to fire unless ordered to do so in self-defence. Unfortunately, two horses had just been stolen and a house plundered, and the Indians absconded, leaving no doubt on our minds of their being the thieves, as after tracking them two or three miles into tlie forest, they had split off in such a manner as to elude pur- suit, and we were forced to return to town unsuccessful, as further pursuit was little more rational than chasing an ea- gle to the mountains. Cockstock had sworn vengeance .>g«nst several of my party, and they thirsted for his blood. Having no other means of securing him, I offered one hun> '><¥■' •-■■V: TIM TKAR8 IN OP.r.iiOV. 231 drcd dollars reward to any who \vould deliver him safely iato my hands, as I wished to convey him for tria? to the author- ities constituted among the Nez Perces and Keyiises, not douhting that they would feel honored in inflicting a just sentence upon him, and the colony therehy be saved from an Indian war, so much to be dreaded in our present weak and defenceless condition. Some six days subsequent, Cockstock and his party, six in all, came into town at mid-day, rode from house to house, showing their loaded pistols, and not allowing any one, by artifice or flattery, to get them out of his bosom or hand. He and his party were horridly painted, and rode about the town, setting, as the citizens and especially his enemies con- strued it, the whole town at defiance. The citizens endured it for several hours, but with great impatience, when at length he crossed the river, and entered the Indian village opposite, and, as the chief states, labored for some time to induce them to join him and burn down the town that night, destroying as many of the whites as possible. Failing in this — if serious or correct in statement, which is much doubt- ed by some, as the chief and the whole Indian village were inimical to him, and doubtless wished, as he was a " brave," to make the whites the instrument of his destruction- -he jbtained an interpreter and re-crossed the river, as other In- ^mns state, for the purpose of calling the whites to an ex* pknation for pursuing him with hostile intentions. By this time, the excitement had become intense with all classes, and both sexes amongst the whites ; and, as was to bo ex- pecttil, tliey ran in confusion and disorder towards the point where the Indians were landing — some to take him alive and get the reward, others to shoot him at any risk to them* selves, the wealthiest men in town promising to stand by - '■wift'i'tsi^iv-^'^^'-^-; 232 TBM TEAKS IH ORBGOIT. ihem to the amount of one thousand dollars each. With these different views, and no concert of action, and many running merely to witness the affray, the Indians were met at the landing, and a firing simultaneously commenced on both sides, each party accusing the other of firing first. In ihe midst of a hot firing on both sides, Mr. George W. Le Breton, a respectable young man, rushed unarmed upon Cockstock, after the discharge of one or more of his pistols, and received a heavy discharge in the palm of his right hand, lodging one \^\l in his elbow and another in his arm, two inches above ^ >ow joint. A scuffle ensued, in which he fell with the hu in, crying out instantly, "he is killing me with his knife." At this moment, a mulatto man ran up, named Winslow Anderson, and despatched Cockstock, by breaking in his skull w^ith the barrel of his rifle, using it as a soldier would a bayonet. In the mean time, the other Indi- ans were firing among the whites in every direction, with guns, pistols and poisoned arrows, yelling fearfully, and many naiTowly escaped. Two men who were quietly at work near by, were wounded with arrows — ^Mr. Wilson slightly in the hip, and Mr. Rogers in the muscle of the arm — but neither, as was supposed, dangerously. The five In- dians, having shot their guns and arrows, retired towards the bluff east of the town, lodged themselves in the rocks, and again commenced firing upon the citizens indiscriminately. Attention was soon directed that way, and the fire arms hav- ing been brought, the Indians were soon routed, killing one of their horse's, and wounding one of them, thus ending the affray. Mr. Le Breton — the surgeon being absent from town — was removed immediately to Vancouver, where he received every attention ; but the canoe hanng been ten hours on the "f TKN YEARS IN ORSGOX. 288 passage, the poison had diffused itself all abroad in his sys- tem, and proved mortal in less than three days from the momt at of the horrid disaster. Mr. Rogers lived but one day longer, though but slightly wounded vrith an arrow in the muscle of his arm. Mr. Wilson has suffered compara- tively little, but is not considered in a safe condition. This unhappy affray has created a general sensation throughout the colony, and all abroad among the Indians of this lower district. Now, whilst I am penning these lines, I am completely surrounded by at least seventy armed Indi- ans, just down from the Dalles of the Columbia, many of them professed relatives of the deceased, on their way to the falls of the Willamette, to demand an explanation, or, in other words, to extort a present for the loss of their brother. They appear well affected towards me — remarkably so— though armed to the teeth, and painted horridly. I am every moment expecting my interpreter, when I shall prob- ably learn particulars respecting their intentions. In the mean time, I will give a few particulars respecting this de- ceased Indian's previous course, which led to the disaster, showing how much we need authorities and discipline in thb country. As it is said, a negro hired Cockstock for a given time, to be paid in a certain horse. Before the time expired, the ne- gro sold the horse and land claim to another negro, the In- dian finishing his time with the purchaser, according to agreement. Learning, however, to his chagrin and mortifi- cation, that the horse had changed owners, and believing it a conspiracy against his rights, resolved to take the horse forcibly— did so— and this led to a year's contention, many threats, some wounds, and at last to the three deaths, and may possibly lead to all the horrors of savage warfare in our rwm^ 884 TKN TSARS IH OREGON. hitherto quiet neighborhood. It was this identical Cock- stock that occasioned much of the excitement last spring, among the whites of the colony, actually driving several from their homes to the more central part of the settlement for protection. I saw and had an interview with the Indians in June fol- lowing, and settled all differences, to appearance, satisfacto- rily ; but, four months subsequently, having occasioned the authorities constituted among the Indians to flog one of his connexions for violently entering the house of the Rev. H. R. Perkins, seizing his person, and attempting to tic, with a view to flog him, he took fire afresh, and in November last came with a slave to my house, with the avowed object of shooting me down at once ; but finding me absent, after a close search in every part of the house, he commenced smashing the windows, lights, sash, and all, of my house and office, with the breech of his gun ; and it is but just to say, he did his work most effectually, not leaving a sound window in either. He next started hotly in pursuit of my steward, who was most actively retreating, but soon over- taken and seized by the shoulder ; his garment giving way, saved the frightened young man from further violence. I returned late in the evening, this having occurred at three, P. M., when the villains were too far away to be over- taken, though I pursued them with the best men of the colony during the whole night, and so long as we could trace them. This was regarded a great outrage, and crea- ted a strong sensation throughout the community, especially as none knew where to trace it until within a few weeks past. Some four weeks subsequently, fifteen Indians came in open day, riding into the neighborhood, painted and well armed. I was the first, with one exception, that observed them, and TSH TXAR8 IN ORKGOIT. 235 learned they were Molalles and Klamets, and felt confident thcj were on an errand of mischief, being well informed of their marauding and desperate habits. As this is quite out of their province, the proper homes of the Klamets being at least three hundred miles to the south, and the Molallas, with whom they intermarry, having their lodges in the Cas- cade mountains, a distance of from forty to eighty miles, I resolved at once to turn their visit to account ; sent my stew- ard to chief Caleb's lodge, where all had arrived, ho being a Callapooyah, and with his band having previously entered with me into the civil compact, and gave him a cordial invi- tation to call on mo, with the chiefs visiting him, in the morning, as I wished to see them, and had some interesting and pleasing news to convey to them. The chiefs called in the morning, none, however, appearing so pleased and happy as Caleb. Of this I tcok no notice ; but entered into cheer- ful conversation with Caleb for a few moments, and then rose up and invited them to walk out and see my plantation and herds. When we reached the cattle, I, as by accident, or inciden- tally, asked Caleb if he was prepared to give a feast to bis distant friends who had so lataly and unexpectedly called on him. Answering in the negative, I told him to shoot down at once a fat young ox that was passing before us, and, while some were dressing it, others to come to the house and get some flour, peas, salt, etc., and go immediately back and feast his friends, lest they form an unfavorable opinion of us here. I need not say the summons was obeyed, and Caleb the happiest man in the world. Now the rigid muscles of the stranger chiefs began to relax ; in short, all distrust was soon lost, and as they were about leaving for Caleb's camp, they found themselves constrained to inform me that they raw TBAR8 IN ORKOOir. came orer with rery different feelings from vrhat they were now leaving us with, and were very gUd they had listened to Caleb's advice, and called upon me. Professing to be very much engaged at the moment, I told them to go and dine, and at evening, or early the following morning, I wouM come with my friend, Mr. Applegate, and make them a call. They feasted to the full, and I found them in fine humor, and in a better condition to smoke than fight. After some casual conversation, I asked them how they would like to enter into the civil compact ; and, whilst they were discus- fiuig the subject, this Indian — Oookstock—came first into my presence, well armed, and appeared cold and distant, though I had no suspicion of his being the character who had so lately broken to pieces the windows in my house and oflBce. They had no scruples in saying they were entirely willing, and should be pleased on their part to enter upon the same terms as others, but did not know how it might be regarded by the residue of their respective tribes. They engaged to meet me on the 15th of March, with the residue of their people, and use their influence to bring about the desirable object The party left the same day, apparently in a cheerful mood, passed over the prairie singing, talking, and laughing mer- rily. As a part, however, were passmg their horses over a difficult stream, the other part fell upon and massacred them in a most shocking manner, this villainous Cookstock acting a conspicuous part in the bloody affray. I repaired to the spot without delay, as the whites were much excited, and wished to pursue and hang every one of them. I learned there had been unsettled feuds of long standing, and that in like manner, ten mcmths previously, three unfortimate wretches had shot down a fellow traveller. On conveying this information to the citiiens, all I believe TEX I'SARS IH OREGOK. 2»Y were Mitisfied to staj at home, and rernnin quiet for the prcs* «nt. Thutt much for this Indian affair, vliich, roy interpreter having arrived, I have settled to-day with the Dalles Indians most satisfactorily. As was to be expected, they wished presents far the death of their brother. I prevailed on all to be seated, and then explained the whole case slowly and clearly to their understanding. I told them wc had lost two valuable innocent men, and they Uut one ; and should our people learn that I had given them presents, without their giving me two blankets for one, tbey must expect nothing but the hottest displeasure from the whites. After much deliberation among themselves, they with one voice conclu- ded to leave the whole matter to my discretion. I at once decided to give the poor Indian widow two lilankets, a dress, and handkerchief, believing the moral in- fluence better than to make presents to the chief or tribe, and to receive nothing at their hands. To this proposiiion they most cheerfully consented, and have now left, having asked for and obtained from me a written certificate, stating that the matter had all been amicably settled. It is to be Ijoped that the matter will here end, though that is by no means certain, as at present there are so many sources of un- easiness and discontent between the parties. As I said before, I believe it morally impossible for us to remain at peace in Oregon, for any considerable time, with- out the protection of vigorous civil or military law. For myself, I am most awkwardly situated ; so much so, indeed, that I had seriously anticipated leaving this spring ; but the late successful contest against the introduction of ardent spirits, in connexion with the excitement by reason of the unhappy disaster at the falls of the Willamette, together i ^*;i 238 TBN TXARS IN ORIOOV. with the fact of too many of our people heing so extremelj excitable on Indian and other affairs relating to the peace and interest of the colony and country, I have concluded to remain for the present, in hopes of being soon some way re- lieved. I hope that the draft I have this day drawn in favor of John McLaughlin will be honored, as otherwise I may be thrown at once into the greatest difficulties, having no other h ouse in this country where I can draw such articles as T require for necessary presents to Indians, to defray travelling expenses, etc. ~ I have the honor to remain, with highest respect, your obedient humble servant, E. WHITE, Sub-agent of Indian Affmrs. Hon. J. M. Porter, Secretary of War. '^x m- •^f?*'?^ TBK TKARS IN ORKOOK. 239 CHAPTER XXII. General health, etc. — ^Winter rains — State of aflairs between the whites and Indians — Chief of the Fallatine plains — Aggression by the Indi- ans — Military atsistance called for — Communication of the chief- Unhandsome and unjust behavior of the Californiana — Murder of Eli- jah Hedding— Ellis sent to the whites — Salutary language and inter- view — Happy visit with Ellis — Intended revenge of the aggressed party — Invitation to the chiefs — Difficulty at fort Vancouver — Suspension of hostilities — The agents weariness of the unhappy state of affairs — Dissatisfaction with the government — An unpleas- ant affair settled — The colony — Methodist institute — Gircnlating medium needed — Agent's unpleasant position — Number of Indians-^ Letter from Mr. McLaughlin and Douglas — Answer from Rusaell and Stewart — Letter from Mr. Burnett— New wagon route — Report of the sub-agent's interpreter— Mr. Lee relative to the Nez Perces^— Letter from Mr. Lovejoy to the secretary of war — A resolution — Note to Hon. W. Medill. Oregon, Willamette Valley, April 4, 1845. Sir — ^Through the politeness of Govenior McLaughlin — the Hudson's Bay express leaving — via. the mountains — ^for Canada to-morrow — I have again the honor and pleasure of addressing you from this remote portion of earth. Since my last, of November, 1844, giving an account of the destruction of thr distillery, the general health, quiet- ness, prosperity, and rapid growth of the colony, together with the good order and decorum which prevailed through- out at the courts, all has moved forward here as satbfacto- rily as could have been expected. Starting too late, and the winter rains setting in earlier t40 TEX TXAnS IX OBZOOX. than usual, subjected the emigrants to incredible suffering and hardships, especially from the Dalles of the Columbia down to the Willamette valley; but our early and delight- ful spring is exerting a cheering and most saiutarj' influence upon their hitherto depressed spirits. They have, bee like, been hived up in Oregon city during the winter, and are now swarming to the entire satisfaction of the first occu- pants of the hive ; it not being wide and large enough for such an unexpected increase. The last emigration, number- ing about a thousand, are generally pleased with the coun- try, and are setting about their spring's work with becom- ing spirit and fortitude. The Indians of this lower country, whose national honor aad dignity are laid in the dust, are looking upon the rapid growth and increased strength of the whites with sorrowful countenances and sad hearts. The present state of things between us and them is peeuHr, critical, unenviable, and dan- gerous, at least so far as peace and property are concerned. For instance in proof — soon after I sent my despatches, tht ?hief of the Fallatine plains, whose orderly conduct and that of his clan did honor to the Ncz Pcrccs laws, and the engagement we had mutually entered into, called on me, de- siring my offices in procuring the mending of his gun. This being done, he invited me to come and see him and his peo- ple ; said all was not right at his lodge ; his tribe was divi- ded, and all was not right ; his influence was waning, and some of his people were becoming very bitter towards the Americans. Observing anxiety and mental reservation, I endeavored to draw out tUj secret, reminding him of the frequent communications he had brought me from the Rev. Messrs. Clarke and OrifUn, bearing such satisfactory testi- mony to hi« previous quiet, orderly, and proper conduct, etc., TEN YKARS IN OREGON. 241 but all I could learn wiis, "things arc not right with us, and vfc are miserable." The Camass, tlieir principal dependance for food was cut off liist season by reason of drought ; and the deer are hunted so n^uch by the late hungry western emigrant rine< men, that they have become wild, poor, and few in number. The chief left. A few days after, I learned they had killed an ox and ate it, belonging to a neighboring white man. The owner was excited, and applied to one of the executive ; a proclama* tion was issued, the military was called out — if it be lawful to call it such — and ample preparations made to avenge the national insult, and seek redress for this astounding loss. The army collected upon the opposite bank of the liver, six miles from the position occupied by the enemy, talked bravely, long and loud, but the river was a little too high to cross that day — appointed another, the river being lower ; none of the warriors appeared ; nor could the executive, Kimply for the want of a few gallons of alcohol, obtain the necessary assistance to avenge the horrid wrong, and per< form a brilliant military exploit. The chief, in his embar- rassment and distress, came to me as usual for sympathy and succor. My coldness and look of severity — for which heav- €!n forgive me ! — keenly afilicted him. After a deep sigh and painful pause, peculiar to a wounded or injured Indian, he slowly rose, gently smiting upon his breast, and said, " Dr. White, I am a true man, and carry an honest heart. Do you remember my coming to get my gun mended hist fall ? Do you remember my words, that all was not right with our people, and my inviting you to come and see us ? We had just before killed that old ox, and was then eating it." I en- quired, had you anything to do with it personally ? " Yes 16 i 1 242 TKK TEARS IN ORRQOK. — I helped to kill it, and with my family, took and ate one- half of the annimal. You saw the condition of my gun — our provisions were out ; I and others had hunted for two days — our hunger was great. We held a council, and, ho- ping for success, I promised on condition nothing was caught till the setting of another sun, we would kill the first animal we met. I travelled far, and weaned myself till evening ; shot of- ten, hut killed nothing. Wc met this poor old ox, v^iiich our people w .uld scom to kill or cat except in cases of ex- treme hunger ; my w^ord was passed to my people ; I could not go hack from my word ; I helped to kill and butcher the ox, and joined in eating him, and now my peace is gonc>. I am ashamed to see a white man's face — they look cold on me and shake the head ; I cannot bear it ; I cannot live so ; I come to you to help me, for I am told they want to kill me. I do not want such feelings to exist ; nor do T want to be hunted as a bear or wild beast for slaughter. I stand here a wisher of peace, willing to have you dictate the terms; but wish to have it remembered that we were distressed with hunger." "Suppose," said I, "the owner should require your rifle and four horses ?" " You stand to judge between U8, and I shall abide your decision." " But you have bro- ken your engagement and forfeited confidence, and I fear it cannot be settled, as some think you have killed before." " Doctor White, I am a true man, and lie not. I nor my people, cannot be so accused justly ; this is injurious ; none can meet my face and say it." I wrote, through him to the owner, praying, as it was the first offence so far as we had the least evidence, and especially in view of our critical situ- ation, and his general good behavior, that he Avould fully indemnify himself; and then, in view of what I knew of the '^ '-t ■ I TKK TEARS IN OREOON. 243 condition of his gun, and Uk! probability that it was induced by hunger, to seJ-tle it ; ^nd rcquestct' him to assure the chi<;f that he was convir.ced from my letter and all the cir- cumstances, in connex'on '.vith his past good conduct, that it must have beefi brjujht about hy i.unger. The advice was vcijcted, as the lav/s of the organization now had cognizcnc, of the ofFcn' e, and he v. ;c^»ed to sec them faithfully enforced. Public oj-inion became divided, and no judicial expression being made, and the poor chief becrming excessively tired of being held by public opinion in durance v'lo, came to see me a second time. I wrote again, and I'-arned it was settled by the chief and his people paying his rifle and ?ight horses. If this be correct — ^as I fear it is — I abominate the act, and dread its prejudicial influence. ' Week before last a hungry and mischievous lodge killed a cow. They were pursued by a party of whites, overtaken, and, in attempting to take them the Indians fired upon the whites, killed one horse, and wounded another. The fire was returned, one Indian killed, and a second wounded. Thus ended this affair, which created very little excitement among whites or Indians. The most painful circumstance that has occurred lately, transpired last fall at California. The Keyuse, Wallawallas, and some of the chiefs of the Spokans, entered upon the hazardous, but grand and important enterprise of going di- rectly through the Indian countiy toCalitornia, with a view of exchanging their beaver, deer, and elk ylcins, together with their surplus of horses for neat stock. As they had to paM through an extensive country, inhabited by the savage and warlike Clamets and Chestes, where Smith, Turner, and so many other white parties had been defeated, we are at a loM ii& >Jlnk %. t44 TXH Tears ik ouzgok. to conclude whether their valor is more to be commended than tb^ rashness of tlieir stupendous enterprise to be censu' red. They were well mounterf and equippe;! ; the chiefs elad in English costume, and the residue attired in dressed skins, moulded according to their several tastes. The jour- ney of seven or eight hundred miles, after some fightings watching, and much fatigue, was accomplished, and their numbers not lessened. Taking their own statement, their reception was cordial, •ad the impi'ession made upon the whites by these distant and half-civilized people, ''pon an errand so commendable, was most favorable. The treating and salutations being over, the trade commenced in good faith, and to mutual sat- isfaction. All moved on well, till, on an excursion to pro^- cure elk and deer skins,' they met a marauding band of mountain free-booters, fought them, and, being victorious, took a prize of twenty-two horses, all previously stolen from the whites. ^ On returning to the settlements, the Spaniards laid claim Co the animals. The chiefs remonstrated, and said, agreea- bly to their customs, the horses were theirs. The Spaniards explained their laws, and showed the animals not to be ven- ted, i. c., bearing a transfer mark, and told the Indians they must give them to the rightful owners, as all Americans and oihers did. The Indians seemed grieved, and rather incen- sed i said in their country siv nations of people were on terms of amity, ani that in case any one of these six nations stole a horse, the tribe was responsible for the safe delivery of that animal to the rightful owner ; but in case the Blackfcet or other formidable enemy steal or captur^^, the property is supposed lost, without redemption ; and as we have captured these horses at the hazard of our lives^ from your long open- ■•f^ TBN TEAIIB IN ORBGON. 245 1 1 \y declared enemies, we think they ought in justice to be ours. The Spaniards condescended to offer ten cows for the redemption of the horses ; the cliief not replying five more were added ; he still remaining moody, and without replying, the negotiation unhappily broke off. A day or two after, oo American, seeing his mule among the number captured, t
school a few weeks since, and was most agree.'bly impressed regarding the institution. The pleasant deportment and improved manners of the young ladies and gentlemen of the school, p»"'ng nothing of their astonishing advancement in tlie different departments of literature, was a cause of the highest gratification. I have nowhere attended an examination, taking all things into the account, more creditable to the principal or institution. I have called for a report, but am sorry it has not yet come to hand. T)ie branches taught arc ihetoric, grammar, geography, arithmetic, ; eadng, writing, and spelling. The most en- lightened aid best disposed are using their influence to strengthen Lio organization, and perfect the laws of the col- ony. J«iany are favorable to the adoption of a constitution, by calling a convention for that purpose the present season. This being the inost enlightened sense, and meeting with lit- «>. '<*if^- '■ ::''» 250 TXN VKARS IN OREGON. *^ lie opposition, I am of the opinion that it will prevail. Should this be effected, the constitution, accompanied with u petition, will probably be forwarded by a delegate from this country to Washington city the coming winter. As the friends to the constitution generally wish best to the coun- try, and desire to have every thing so conducted as not to embaiU'ss, but meet with acceptance at home, I am solicited 10 be said delegate, and represent the wants of Oregon. A circulating medium is greatly needed ; however, the enter- prise and onward march of this people cannot easily be re- pressed. Through the auspices of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany almost every man, requesting and needing it, is helped to sufficient means to commence on his section of land ; and, ..'crtainly, by far the greater number give evidence of well- placed conhdence. The prairies are dotted over with hou- ses, and the fruitful Gelds -.ire spreading out widely all around us. Moral and religious influence, I regret to say, is wa- ning ; yet it is gratifying to observe an increasing interest upon the subjt,.;t of schools and education ; and I am happy to say we have now eleven schools this side of the moun- tuins, most of them small, to be sure, but they are exerting a salutary and beneficial influence. Fai'don the length and want of interest of my report. Did not duty hold me here, or had I funus appropriated to travel abroad to explore this delightful region of surru;*".d- ing country, from what I )':arn of vague reports, I have lit- tle doubt but much interesting, curious and important infor- matio'^ might be collected. But here I am, doomed to sit, watv«: and sometimes almost fight for peace between whites (.nd Indians — the question of ight and v/rong becoming mo.*e and )nore complicated continually ; while here, allow lae to say, the settling these difficulties necessarily costs me i. TEN TEARS IN OREGON. 257 not a liltle. I believe most fully, in making a settlement with an Indian or tribe, to have it a happy, earnest and hearty one ; and, in order to afi'ect this, they require a present as a seal. And, sir, this is my principal means of usefulness or influenc d ^ f ; ■; f ■ 274 TKN rBARS IN OREGOIT. tion. On questioning the natives carefully relative to the depth of the entrance to the bay from the sea, the doctor supposed it to be about eleven feet. Satisfied with attaining their object, they started for the Willamette, followed to the river bank by the Indians, giving them to understand they had never before seen a pale face in this place. As they passed up the bay, Brown laid claim to a certain spot, where he said he had no doubt there would some day be an immense city, as there were good facilities for cutting a railroad from Willamette to the coast, and thereby a way provided to convey materials to build such a city. In one day they reached the point where they had left tlioir hor- ses, and never did sinful children of Adam toil harder, or more dexterously than did the poor Indians with their poles and paddles, in taking them up the river. Night arrived, and our friends were suppcrless in the midst of a cold ruin storm. They managed to set lire to an old fir stub, which burned much better thirty feet above than where they wish- ed it to. The blankets being wet, and cinders continually falling around them, the hours passed most uncomforibly, and the morning found them weary and irritable, and the irritability was not lessened by the consideration that they had yet six miles to travel before breakfasting. When they reached the top of the mountain, eight miles di^ttant from the encampment where they had left their friends, they dis- charged their pieces to notify them of their return. They passed cheerily down the valley, and the good fellows know- ing, as they had anticipated they were on short allowance had coffee prepared, and an am])le repast. 7.he meal, much as they required it, a6'orded the hungry men scarcely more pleasure, than did the report of their successful enterprise a TRK TKARS IK 011EG0>7. 2!^ft to the e doctor attaining cd to the ind they a certiiin iomo day >r cutting by a way In one .lioir hor- lurder, or heir poles it arrived, k cold ruin ub, which they wiah- ;ontinually )mforjibly, I, und the that they Vhen they tant from they dis- lin. They lows know- lallowancu cal, much cely more entcrpriaf m to their companions, who, in their enthusiasm, greatly mag- nified the importance of the expedition. They raised camp, and had proceeded but a few miles, when tltey were overtaken by an Indian hunter, with whom the party had spent most of the time of the doctor's ab- sence, bearing a newly slaughtered elk, urging it upon them, an.l what was more singular and acceptable, without com- pensation. One of the men accomplished with him a trade of rifles, and they a^yain moved forward. Four hours later found them once more on the banks of the Willamette, noth- ing unusual occurring except a harmless encounter with a flock of large, mountain wolves, attracted by the scent of the meat. Three and a half days more travel through a country equally beautiful with the other side of the river, and they were in the vicinity of the colony, and the doctor had the pleasure of telling their adventures to his friend. Gen. Gillihan, who, with the people generally, was much pleased with the relation. It was this expedition which the legislature took action upon, praying congress to reward the ogcnt for his arduous labors. Late in August Dr. Wliite determined to take the usual route to the United States, aid obtaining Harrb for pilot, and Du Guerre, with three or four others, he started on the 15th, Harris and Saxton crossing the Cascade mountains wilh the horses, to meet him at the Dalles. At Vancouver he was apprised of the danger of going with so small a party across such an extensive Indian country. But he determined to persevere, and went on to the Dalles, where the men and horses had already safely arrived. However, I have omit- ted noticing two rather interesting incidents of his voyage thither. A few miles above the Cjiscades, the party disem- barked to take their dinner, when they discovered a large i T f \\ M 270 TKir TKARS IN OREGON. Indian encampment, wearing an air of unusual cheerfulness. The doctor felt some curiosity to know what it meant, and having ordered the salmon and potatoes on to hoil, he ap- proached it, and saw the lodge was thrown open wide, and every species of Indian finery displayed in the best light. The spot they had selected for their camp was a lovely one, being an oak orchard grove, upon the side of a pleasant, grassy eminence, the rolling waters of the Columbia on one Mde, and noble mountains on the other. While he was gazing anxiously about, out stepped an In- dian, saying to the interpreter, "Wedding here to-day." On hearing this, the doctor had no difficulty in distinguish- ing the parties, for in the centre of the principal lodge, sat rather a pretty girl of eighteen, clothed in a robe of tanned and dressed elk skin, beautifully embroidered with beads, and delicately fringed; and by her side reclined a stately looking copper colored youth, partly in European garb, both, notwithstanding the presence of the strangers, evidently in A very complacent mood. This was the first Indian bridal Dr. White had ever attended, and he was extremely desirous of obtaining the handsome dress of the bride, believing it would be of great interest to the friends at home. While he was cogitating how to negotiate this delicate affair. Chap- man strode up, saying, " What now ? Things look rather different from what they did two years ago, when I was first ttlong here ; not an Indian to be seen here, nor any thing else but a fevr old, worn out cows of the emigration, with a mberable boy to drive them. I was nearly starved to death, in the storm, and he had nothing to eat, nor any thing to eat it ID, so doing the very best I could, I slipped off my shoe •nd milked in it, and drank out of it, too, and was glad to get off so." This odd tale, told in his peculiar ludicrous TSM TEARS IN OREGON. rfulnesa. int, and be ap- ide, and st light, rely one, pleasant, a on one }d an In- to-day." itingutsh' }dge, sat )f tanned th beads, a stately arb, both, Idently in an bridal desirous ieving it While ir, Chap- A rather was first ly thing 1, with a ;o death, g to eat ly shoo glad to ludKTOUS flV9 style, set his auditor laughing, and put all thought of the dress out of his head. It soon returned, and he endeavored to strike a bargain, uselessly though, for he was gravely informed that a very considerable sum could not at this time buy the article. It is not necessary to say more of the marriage rites, than that so far as the doctor could learn, they were conducted in much the same mapner that were McDonald's marriage negotiations with Coracomly, both parties exchanging such presents as they had agreed upon. While here. Dr. White learned of a most murderous affair at the Dalles, in which two Indians were said to have been chopped entirely to pieces. He hastened to the spot, and as they saw him, the squaw and daughters of one of the deceas- ed set up a mournful wailing. He investigated, and foiind that, as in most other cases, the disturbance had been paus- ed by family feuds. It seemed that formerly a member of a family had been killed, and as was the custom, his friends had slain his slayer, and his friends in return one of the other family, till with the last two, the males of both families had become nearly extinct. Having no time to redress or .cor- rect the wrong, he returned to the canoe, followed by the afflicted wife, reminding him of a transaction two years pre- vious and imploring him very piteously to grant her proteC" tion. The circumstance to which she alluded was as foK lows. At that time, the agent, on official business, spent a fort- night with Perkins and Brewer, during which the Indian chief died, leaving a large property in herds, horses, etc. Immediately after the demise of an individual, it is custom- ary for the head men of the tribe to assemble, and distribute among themselves his possessions, excepting a small share ■"^^WWWWHMB^ 'r^*'*l ^Pr^^^^^^W^W' 176 TEN TEARS IM OREaON. for thu males of the family, leaving the females destitute, tO' become the slaves of the tribe. Learning from Mr. Brewer tliat they were already convened, and that the only remaining rel- atives of the deceased were a wife and three daughters, the doctor repahed to the place of meeting, determined, if pos- sible, to break up the cruel practice. On arriving, the distri- bution had in part been made, and he found it a matter of great delicacy to interfere with, especially as the chiefs were interested in continuing the custom. After some reflection, the doctor deliberately arose, and taking off his coat, rolled it up, and placing it at the feet of the oldest chief, retired to his scat, knowing that if it was accepted, his point was gain- ed, for if a coat is presented to and received by a chief, the giver is at liberty to ask any favor. After a slight pause he arose, and asked in his own tongue, " What is the wish of (he white chief ?" He replied, that he " had called to have an interview with him, and his people, if it was his pleas- ure." The haranguer was sent out, and the people assem- bled, before whom the " white chief " arose, and spuke of their cidamity in losing so great a warrior, and told them that he would relate to them what would be done in his own country, at a similar event. That at the death of a man, three or five of the wisest men among the people would meet to say how his property should be disposed of. He asked them if they thought this a good law ? They talked awhile among themselves, and then through the chief, re- plied, " it is good." " Then," said the speaker, " if you would please my great chief, who sent me here, choose five of your wisest men, and let them say what shall be done with your brother's possessions." Some time was occupied in making this, to them, new arrangement, and then the chief announced that their vbitor and four others were elected. h f'Hf??'^^''^"^*^;"^-^?!^^^! ' *^^r:'->. :',-f:^y" TEN TEARS IN ORSOOV. 299 itutc, to wer that ning rel- :crs, the , if pos- lie distri- latter of iefs were eflcclion, at, rolled retired to i¥as gain- chief, the pause he 3 wish of 1 to have lis pleas- Ic assem- spukc of them that his own a man» would of. He ey talked chief, re- "if you loose five he done occupied the chief e elected. urging as a reason for his appointment, that they would not know how to proceed without his assistance and direction. He then stated to them in what high estimation the women in his country were held, and as examples cited them to the mission ladies, with whom they were acquainted. He told them that one-third was given to the wife, and the resi- due to the children, cither sons or daughters, and that no portion was received by the chiefs unless they gave a full equivalent in return. He saw this caused some demur, and said he did not know how the law would suit his good friends, but that they would retire and consult on the mat- ter, and then the people should know the result. The com- mittee then went into privy council, constituting Mr. Brewer their secretary, the old chief first remarking, that the course his brother had marked out was very difiScult, as it was op- posed to their customs, and those of their fathers, besides, some of the property had already been given away. On asking if they had a right to recal it, after some delibera- tion, it was decided they had, and it was restored. Finally, it all ended as Dr. White wished, the widow and daughters receiving the whole, excepting a few presents to the head men, for which a return was made, and placed in the com- mon fund. The doings were signed and sealed, and the pa- pers committed to Mr. Brewer's keeping, and he two years after informed his friend that the engagements had been faithfully fulfilled. But to return to the homeward journey, which was finally renewed on the 23d of Aug. The very first morning, Harris, on whom the agent depended as interpreter, for the Sioux and Pawnees, declared his intention of returning to the Wil- lamette. He would give no reason for so doing, and in thb unaccountable manner., without cause or provocation, left 280 TSN TKAR8 IN OREGON. ^ them. The same day ut noon thuy reached tho Dcshutcs river, where IJrown likewise, in great impalicnce, dechired that he would return, and Dr. White's old friend, Battcua Da Guerre, who had never before failed him, coincided with the intended deserter, saying it would be impossible to reach the states with so small a party. Their leader concealed bb chagrin, and told them to do as they chose, but as long as the road lay open before him, he should go on. This en- ded the matter, they followed on, and that evening reached the John Day river, named after a famous, yet unfortunate old Kentucky hunter, who, from hardships encountered in this region, became insane, died, and was buried, on its banks. Here they met a considerable body of Indians, whoso saucy, boisterous behavior, excessively annoyed Brown. It was a tribe who had been habitually troublesome to emigra- ting parties. Dr. White was a little in the rear, but came up in time to check the excitement, and prevent disturbance. He coolly said to them, "you see my party is too small to set a guard over our horses ; if any of you want my prop- erty, go take it ; but I expect to fmd it all in its proper place, in the morning." To the surprise of some of the party, this confidence was not misplaced, though poor Brown slept lit- tle, and was full of evil prophecies. On tho 2Gth they met the Wallawalla Indians, on their grounds near fort Willawalla, and were particularly struck with the noble appearance of the yoimg brave who came out to meet them. The neatness of their plantations, scattered along the skirts of the woods, was very creditable to their skill and industry. Long strings of com were nicely plaited and hung outside their cabins, to dry, and every thing gave indications of thrift and improvement. In a few moments an old chief came, and with hb hat under his arm, very cour- "^.f? '■',b.' TXN TBAR8 IH OREGON. 281 •cshuU'S luularcd Battcua led with to reach t)nccalc>d , as lon^ This en- rcached 'urtunatc itcrcd in its banks, s, \rhoso own. It ) cmigra- but came turbance. small to ny prop- )er place, arty, this slept lit- on their |ly struck pame out Scattered I to their plaited ng gave aentsan Iry cour- teously saluted the strangers, cordially inviting them to his lodge, and could hardly bu prevailed upon to accept their apologies and allovr them to proceed. They moved two miles further and halted, when they were visted by many of the tribe, bringing with them presents of the various pro- ductions of their farms. The white men spent several hours with them, listening with interest to descriptions of their agricultural pursuits, and their beneficial effects, and ascri- bing great credit to Dr. Whitman and Mr. Spalding, who firiit introduced among them this change from a savage to a civilized state. They left them about three o'clock, P. M., and camped for the night in the midst of the Blue moun- tains. The next day they made a long and cheerful march, and camped on a considerable stream near the Grand Round. The following day, passing a large tree, at the foot of which, had manifestly been built many fires, Saxton, laugh- ing, remarked, " there is where, last fall, I had my first quar- rel, all the way from the United States to this country, being the place where I burnt up the last mess of beans, kettle and all, in consequence of falling asleep, worn down by fatigue. Our mistress kicked up a row, and such an one as none of us are likely soon to forget." They next entered the Orand Round, and traversed most of its length. Dr. W. more than ever impressed with its love- liness and fertility. They that morning bathed in the hot spring. A few miles from the round, they came in full view of a large encampment, which they supposed tenanted by Snake Indians, near where, the fall before, two of the tribe were killed by reckless whites, thereby rendering it deci- dedly livostile They experienced much uneasiness, and made preparations to advance cautiously as possible ; but, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 ■a 121 ■2.5 ^ iiii 12.2 Sf Hi ■" ^ 1^ 12.0 Mi* L25 mu |L6 ^ A? '-^ ^ '/ Photographic Sciences Corporalion 23 Wfi*T MAIN STRUT ^^^ ^4' ^ f^.... y,'.- 282 TEN TXARS IN OBBOON. / /■'. on nearing it, found a party of Kcyuses and Nez Purees. They gave a most unfavorable account of a band of Snakes, just ahead, so much so, that Dr. White deemed it advisa- ble to hire three of the warriors to escort them through the Snake country. On the night of the SOth his brave Nez Perces kept watch, but nothing occurred to alarm them. The next day, they made at least forty miles, and con- sidering themselves beyond danger from the Snakes, lay by for the Sabbath, and found it emphatically a day of rest. On Monday, about noon, to their almost extravagant joy, they met a company of eight hundred emigrants, headed by Barlow, Knighton nnd McDonald. They were very cheer- ful, and represented the dangers of the route as far less than they had anticipated ; indeed, they said the principal annoy- ance arose from the dust of so many wagons, numbering eighty-seven. It was to the doctor as exciting a meet- ing as had been that with the exploring squadron, at Hono- lulu, each party bringing news from the country they had left. After this they met several expeditions, one of which, near fort Boise, brought the doctor several valuable letters ; one from Mrs. White, from whom he had not heard in fifteen months, and one from each of his esteemed friends, Benja- min Joy and Oen. Miner, of Lansing. Near the falls of the Snake river, they encountered the St. Joseph's company, and their first impressions of it were any thing but fayorable. They were camped on a sandy plain, and the first person who presented himself, was a tall, meager, one eyed man,running along the bank of the river with a fishpole in his hand, corresponding with his own dimen- sions. The next was not a one eyed individual, but possessed a black eye, and was a suspicious looking subject ; and then i*tfi»aitf^sM/^W: . ^^^SM:Miii^s^im*ik^. .w»w^«<^:^^M^v.t^.4^'' ';£?«iK«^>c '■»S^^ TKN iCABS IV OBEOON. 283 s tall, commanding looking man, walking hastily about, appa- rently in anxious search aftftr some object. By this time the thoughts and reflections of our party, respecting the compa- ny, were sufficiently melancholy. The last named gentle- man, suddenly observing them, abruptly changed his course, and advancing to the doctor, held out his hand, saying, "my name is Fisher," upon which he extended his, and " mine is White." "Surely, not Dr. White, of Oregon?" "The same, sir." " Why, sir, I know you well by report, I feel myself well acquainted with you ; come to the camp, sir ; come to the camp ;" and nothing loth he did go to the camp, where he found a company of intelligent New England peo- ple, who had formerly emigrated to Iowa, aud were now on their way to Oregon. They were more eager for news than any he had before met, and also for reading matter, for they had devoured every thing in their possession, even to their old almanacs. He was literally forced to give them an Ore- gon lecture, so he harangued to them, some sitting upon wagon tongues, some on the ground, and others bringing out their old fashioned eastern chairs. While this was going forward, some of the ladies prepa- red for the party, under Mr. Fisher's tent, a delicious repast of choice bread, crackers, tea, dried beef, butter, and maple molasi. J. While partaking of these, a large number stood round the travellers, af.king questions as eagerly as tkep ate. On enquiring why tliey were so far behind the general par- ty, one of the ladies replied, " why, I guess it is because we lie by on the Sabbath." A smile passed round the cir- cle, and an elderly maiden remarked, " Oh, sir, that is not the only reason ; our company are very philosophical ; they are not disposed to let little drawbaclts trouble them ; neither ■fm 284 nCN TKARS IN OfmQOV. «. M do they wish to wear themselves out by extraordinary exer- tions, such as rising too early in the morning, and dashing away over the plains, like eager seekers after filthy lucre." A laugh followed, and the doctor's enquiries were at an end. After dinner, strolling about, he passed a group of young ladies busily chattering, and one of them, rather blushingly, asked, " Sir, do you carry letters to the United States ?'* " Yes, certainly, I have a pack animal with me especially for that purpose." There was a titter among her com- panions, and one spoke, " there, Lucy, you see the gentle- man b willing to carry it. I told you so." Another, " Yes, to be sure. Aal now I reckon you would like to have us get a pen and paper for you, wouldn't you?" With a half- provoked air she bade them " hush," and left them. He watched her proceedings, and soon saw her seated upon the houns of a wagon, her paper spread upon her lap, her cheek pressed upon her hand, lost to outward objects, and indi- ting her sweetest matter. When she brought, and half bashfully, presented the letter, requesting the doctor to send it to its address, he replied, laughingly, " you may be certain, I will do so ; if all the rest fail, this shall go safe- ly." She retreated amid the suppressed giggle of her roguish mates. He saw the letter was directed to a gen- tleman. The party were much pleased with Mr. Fisher, and one of them presented him a fine horse, which he gratefully ac- cepted, and they separated. After traversing the sand plains to within half a mile of fort Hall, Dr. White and his companions indulged in a thorough washmg, in which their clothes came in for a ■ ' ■i.llljivSMPPni'^ TBir YBAIta IN ORKOOK. 285 r exer- ashing lucre." at an young ihingly, tates ?" pecially it com- genUe- , " Yes, have uci 1 a half- im. He ipon the er cheek nd indi- md half octor to 1 may be go safe- of her a gen- and one Tully ac- share, and all being in a fresher condition, presented them< selves at the fort. They remained with Mr. Orant sev- eral days, the reason of which was, that the horse bear- ing the mails, and other valuables, took fright, and ran away, and about three days passed before tbey recovered him. mile of ted in a lin for a 286 TKN 7SABS IH OHKOOIT, CHAPTER XXV. fibowere— Soda Spring; — Dr. Burke — Pleasant interview—Green river —Great change — New route — Sterile and forbidding country— Sam- mit level — Uncomfortable night — Contrast- Divide — " Home, Bweet home" — A trail— Sabbath travelling — Weather — Dreary pass — Ani- maJs — Bear — Sweetwater valley— Independence rock — Solitary walk — Halt — Ravine — Snow — Red bluff— Camp on the Platti — Buffalo —Needless Tars — Humbug — Throe grizzly bears — Signs of Indians —Nondescript— Indian and family^Signs of danger— Herd of hor- •ee — Attempt to escape observation — Failure — An old mnn — Kind reception — Handsome offer — An American — Feasting — Smoking — Reasonable request — Encampment — Two Frenchmen — Good meal — Warm spring — Fort Laranny — Mr. Tappan — Fligibilily for a mil- itary post. The fit^t night after leaving fort Hall they had a shower of rain, the only one between the Dalles of the Columbia and the United States, a period of ninety days. Their sec- ond encampment from this place was at the soda spring. Every thing bore much the same aspect, as four years pre- viously, excepting the unpleasant change Cciused by emigrants having cut away so much timber, lessening the wild beauty, and grateful shade of a spot, destined, ere long, to become a rendezvous for the world. On the 27th, they met Dr. Burke, who was engaged in collecting botanical and mineralogical specimens for the English government. Ho related many anecdotes of his travels in Africa, and the interview was. both pleasing and instructive. They had the pleasure of his company to a din- ; -Miiik. 4t**£l(««».-.«.- S'l.***^,' ^:::mp?f-m\¥ ' ^■W!'S^ifS}!!S^^'^'^^'''v'y^''-'W'^w f TBK nkHS IN ORKQOK. 287 ner, which Brown and Chapman exerted their skill to ren- der palatable, presenting him with bread, butter, and pota- toes, which he had not tasted for months. They reached Green river the 9th of October. Here a great change had taken place ; the numerous expeditions having so destroyed the timber as to Ica'.e the doctor in doubt whether it really was Green river. It was also quite difTercnt from what it had been when he fust visited it. But their doubts were resolved by finding an old piece of wagon - board, with a name written upon it, in pencil, " we ar- rived at this point, Green river, 1811." They no'^ attempt'^.d a route, to them, entirely new, be- tween Gi < on river and the Rocky Mountains. It was an arid and forbiduing regioa, uttely destitute of vegetation, and of every living thing, the lizard excepted. They pushed on for forty miles, without a drop of water, or discovering a single article fit for food ; at the end of which they stopped and took a slight lunch, feeling more uncomfortable for their jaded horses, than pleasure in their own hasty allowance. As they approached the summit level between Green and Sandy rivers, the weather became very chilly ; the wind^, blowing from the snowy tops of the mountains, were search- ing and severe. As evening came on, the party became drowsy from cold and weariness, and were hardly able to reach a suitable place for rest, which, however, they did reach betweeaict^en and eleven o'clock at night. As they were in a dangerbus part of the country, tlicy dared not build a fire, but spread their blankets upon the wet ground, and threw themselves upon them, reflecting how diffcreni was their prospect for spending the niglit, from those of travellers in the states, contrasting their uncomfortiible, and 288 'KM TKARa IH OnXOOV. even perilous situation, with good fires, warm supper, and soft beds. * A In the morning they were roused by the scampering of the horses, bellowing of buffalo, and capering of antelope. Chapman slaughtered a fine antelope, which, Tv'th bread composed of flour, salt, and water, mixed, and baked on a tin before i. 3 fire, and the last of the butter, made their breakfast. They started about ten o'clock, and reached the divide that evening, and on Saturday crossed it on foot, arrived at Sweetwater valley at twelve o'clock, and at three came to a halt, each one happy that they were again travel- ling down hill, and on the side of the old republic. One involuntarily broke out singing, « home, sweet home," and Dr. W.'s thoughts irresistably flew forward to the time when he should again meet hb wife, and dear little boys, whom he had not seen for three and a half years. At sunset they struck a large Indian tnul, running to the south-east, and they thought the party might have passed while they were at dinner. This did not retard their speed, and they made twenty miles before they again sought re- pose, which they at last did with feelings of great disquiet. They awoke before day-break, and went in pursuit of their horses, which had strayed far away. The nature of their emotions at this, may be imagined. They were yet a thoa« sand miles from the states, with a scarcity of provisions, and a hostile country to pass through. However, the genius of good luck favored them, and they found, the animals ; after which they had divine worship, and then started forward, for they dared not tarry, even though it was Sabbath. That night they slept twenty-five miles distant, in the Sweetwater valley, where thousands of moving buffaloes disturbed their SiK*i»»alSw,;iss*.5 */$^^ TKM rXARS IN ORBOON. 289 er, and Sling of ntelope. Ii bread cd on a de ibeir ic divide rrived at ee came in travel- lie. One me," and ,ime when ys, ■whom rest, coming within thre^ rods of them. The night was dclear, though seve^ foif^tho^th of October. The next day they passed Hell Gate, so cmled for being the place where deven whites were cut off at once by the Indians; Through this dismal pass, a quarter of a mile in length, cut through a mountain of rock, they travelled in great fear lest they should be way-laid. In the morning they awoke much re- freshed, and carefully searched, but found no trace of sava- ges, breakfasted, and went on, meeting numerous sage- fowls, horses, antelopes and buffaloes, of which they killed one. That night they arrived at Salarsetus lake, where they . were visited by a huge grizzly bear, but did not pursue him, though strongly tempted to do so. They reached Sweetwater pass about half past nine, and soon after. Independence rock. Here the doctor crept stealthily along a mile in advance, fearing a repetition of the scene he had formerly witnessed. He was startled by the lightest motion of a leaf, in the shim- mering light of the setting moon. Every thing was as still as death, except a slight stir, now and then, occasioned by a gentle zephyr, giving an apparent quiet life and motion to every shadowed twig and weed. The scene was solemnity itself. They camped between twelve and ope o'clock, and the next day travelled thirty miles. ^ -^ -y Ito^i^ On the 8th, after an early breakfast, they mounted, the wind at their backs, which, clear as it was, gradually in- creased, till, at eleven o'clock, it was like a blow at sea, ma- king the sand so troublesome that they were driven into har- bor at twelve. There they dined on buffalo tongue, tender- lines and tea, and at two o'clock, as the wind had a little abated, again started, and travelled on till they reached the bottom of a deep ravine, where a few willows partially shiel- ded them from the snow and driving blasts, through the 19 200 TBN TKARS IN ORBOOIT. night. The next day was cold and ^tormy, the snow falling an inch in depth on the tahle while they were dining. That afternoon the travellers came ]p. sight of the Red hluiT of the Black hills, of a color between scarlet and chocolate, and that evening camped on the Platte. In the night, Brown awoke his companions, to listen to the hordes of buffaloes crossing the stream in a precipitate and hurried manner. Chapman quickly, but gravely, admon- ished them to " be very still, as there were Indians just be- low." Having some doubts of these night visions, his leader asked his reasons for such a statement, but in vain ; he would or could give none. In the morning he started out to fetch up the horses, and soon came back, saying, in a hurried and excited manner : " There, I told you there were Indians down there !" "Well, Chapman, what now ? Have you seen any?" No ; but I heard the men gambling, and making medi- cmes, children talking, dogs barking, and all sorts of noi- ses." " Chapman, did you hear the dogs bark ?" " I tell you I heard all sorts of noises, and if you don't believe ine, go jwurself, and you will soon be satisfied." " Th^ii will'do, certainly. Brown, come ; go along." They went as far as he did, and heard nothing but the winds sighing through the trees, in the valley, the flitting of ravens, and the pecking of birds on the old, dry timber. Far down the river, they saw the buffaloes and antelopes qmetly grazing, and all nature, in these lonely recesses, ap- pearing awful from her very repose ; the storm being over, and the ground covered with snow to three inches in depth. Dr. White decided to cross the river, and go ahead, Chap- '^*p^ TBH TIARS IN ORSOOIT. 201 lon't >« !•> the igof aber. Ilopes lovcr, les in JKap- man^s dreams notwithstanding, and his protestations of hear- ing marvelous sounds. But Brown, on the subject of Indi- ans, always cowardly, was inclined to believe that the vis- ions might be Providential warnings, and the doctor directed him to go to the point of an adjoining bluff, and satisfy him- self that I'Js fears were groundless. He had been gone but a short time, when he came cantering back at full speed, de- claring that he had " seen a man and horse, and heard chil- dren ;" that he " knew there were human beings there ; was afraid they had seen him, but hoped not." Though habitu- ally sufficiently credulous, the doctor doubted much, but turned aside through a depression in the mountain, went twelve miles to make six, and found, as he had suspected, that it was all a humbug. Impression men, and timid be- lievers in dreams, have no business on this road with small parties. The second night following this, the doctor, followed by his companions, wound his way, by the dim light of a cloud- ed moon, down the Platte, to a place of safety. Late in the evening, he struck through some timber, both standing and fallen, in a low, lonely vale, where he came suddenly upon three grizzly bears, busily devouring the carcase of a buffa' lo. They retreated two jumps, by which time the intruder, discovering his position, came to a halt to await the arrival of his army in the rear. They no sooner recovered from their first surprise, than with horrid growls they advanced to- wards him, and he made a precipitate retreat, when, fortu- nately, the party came up. Brown and Chapman dismounted and advanced within thirty paces of the enemy. One of the creatures, probably the dam, gave a dreadful yell, vindicative of fear, and anger, and made a terrible bound towards them, but such was *he noise made by the scampering of the hor- 292 TIN TKAIUS Ur ORCOOK. ses, that she was confused, and fled, hotly pursued by Chap- man, bawling as loud as he could, "Brown, Brown — here they are! Come quick — we'll have *em." But bruin and her cubs escaped into a thicket, whither Chapman could hardly be restrained from following them. In the morning, they found the animals had passed where they slept, and the wounded bled so profusely, that they all imagined they were sure of them, especially, as on following the trail back to the place of firing, they found an immense quantity of blood. They traced the track three miles, to a dense thicket, where they left them, as their retreat was unsafe to penetrate. They measured a foot mark, and found it twelve inches in length by seven in breadth. They travelled twenty-six miles, and camped on a branch of the Platte, in the Black hills, and Brown shot a young deer, on which they feasted lustily. Sabbath morning they lay by till twelve o'clock, and then moved on till sunset, amid fresh signs of Indians. They now stopped an hour or two on another branch of the Platte, and then rode till twelve o'clock, through a storm of wind, hail and snow. They passed over a long divide, the moun- tain high, making, that day, thirty miles. They found a thicket, in which they emcamped, which served not a little to break off the piercing winds. The doctor lay down on Us uncomfortable bed, and thought of home endearments. He rested well, and felt better in the morning, though it was cold and snowy. At a brisk fire they roasted a badger, if the nondescript the doctor killed the day before, may be 80 called. That morning the party met a Sioux, and his family, who were very friendly, though, when he learned the smallness of their number, he warned them of great dan- *i^i^farfft iiiiiifr^i TXSr TXAKS IK OREQOir. 2dd ger by rapping on his head, and drawing his knife across his throat, and significantly pointing far ahead. They left him, and in half an hour saw before them an immense herd of horses, which they knew must ha\'« owners, and those not whites, and they then understood the fearful signs made by their Sioux friend. They attempted to escape observation by cutting across a district of country, and afterwards inter^^ secting the main road. Passing around the point of a hill, they reached the old road, and, to their chagrin, In a few moments came in full view of two hundred and fifty Sioux lodges, not more than five hundred yards distant. To avoid them was now impossible, and without a moment's hesitan- cy, the doctor wheeled his horse in that direction, and or- dered the party to folio nY with a rapid step. What the re- ception and doom awaiting them, he knew not. They soon saw a brave, gi;ave-looking old man, riding out to meet them, and a multitude of children swarming to gaze upon the white strangers. Dr. White alighted, and putting on the best na- tured smile possible, shook hands with him. He seemed pleased, and enquired by signs " where they came from, and whence they were bound ?" Having no interpreter, the doc- tor did as well as he could by signs, and showing him a book sealed with much wax, and also a number of extravagantly large letters, which he told him he was carrying to the great father, at Washington. By this time, a host had collected, and the chief motioned the doctor to accompany him to the village, where he conducted him to the lodge of a younger, though more influential chief, dressed in English costume, and professing to be a friend to the whites. In a few mo- ments, a Frenchman appeared, who understood their lan- guage sufficiently to inform the guests that the Indians wished them N) 'accept the soldier's lodge, or lodge of hon- 294 TEN TKARS IK ORXOOV. or, which should be vacated for their use, and spend the night with them. It was large and convenient, and tired as they were, the invitation was very tempting, but the doctor declined, and asked an interview with an American, said to be in the camp. In the meantime, while he was talking with his host, Sax- ton come in, in much agitation, and requested him to step out, as the savages had already plundered one of the pack hor- ses, and Chapman was " in a dreadful stew." The doctor coolly beckoned the chief to accompany him to the spot, where he found the Indians much embarrassed and uncom- fortable. They had supposed the visitors would stay, and had therefore taken off the pack and deposited it in the lodge assigned them. By this time, Mr. Qillipin, the gentleman whom Dr. W. had begged to see, and who proved to be a member of t)iO American fur company, arrived. They had met four years previous, at fort Laramy, and he was again in the country on a trading excursion. He infoitned him that a large party of the Sioux and Shiars were out on purpose to kill every white, and Snake, they could find, as seven of their tribe had been slain, as they thought, by them. It was probably this band, whose trail I have mentioned, the party saw one day after dinner. He said that if they had es- pied them, they certainly would have despatched every one. He rendered himself very agreeable and serviceable, and teUing the natives who Dr. White was, they were invited from lodge to lodge, to feast with them. They then brought out their lon.^, wooden-stemmed, stone-bowled pipes, which they smoked peacefully and cheerfully. The doctor tried hard to get off his awkward, Dutch pipe, which was cer- t£unly no less beautiful than theirs, but to no avail, and was not a Uttle embarrassed. Chapman and Saxton humorously TXH TEARS IN OREOON. 296 y remarked, that tkey thought the difficulty might be occa- sioned by its long travels over the hot plains, causing it to be- come contracted, thereby leaving an occasional crevice. In a delicate manner their entertainers intimated their wish for a present from our government, as an equivalent, in part, for the wood consumed, and game destroyed, by the large immigrating parties, passing through their country, in which, believing the wish reasonable. Dr. White encouraged them. The white men then left them, and camped pleasantly two miles distant, and slept without alarm. The next day, they met a village, moving, dogs as well as horses, harnessed, drawing long poles and goods, seemingly at home in the bu- siness. They also met Smoke, an important Sioux chief. They rested for the night in the camp of two Frenchmen, in the service of the American fur company, one of them having resided in the country seventeen years, and was a jolly, roistering fellow. He had been there so long, that he said he actually dreaded the appearance of a white woman, or' any thing like refinement. Their carts were heavily laden with dried buffalo tongue, and other meats, of Mrhich they presented the Americans, with real, back- woods generosity. Of them, they made a rich meal, while listening to the fel- low's yarns of the Rocky Mountains, the enormous elk he had killed, and his encounters with the grizzly bear. His story-telling propensity was probably increased by the quan- tity of tea he drank, of which he declared he had not before tasted in several years, and which acted upon him in mucli the same manner that stimulous would on another per- son. Twelve miles from this, at the foot of the Black hills, they reached the warm spring, where, as they would soon arrive at fort Laramy, they peiformed their ablutions, as at fort 200 nif TKARS IN ORKGOIC. Hall. They wore hospitably received at Laramy by Pappin, the governor, and the doctor was favorably impressed with the diflferent manner in which he conducted the trading cs- tablishniont, from most others they had visted. He was fully convinced Uiat this would be the best point at which to fix a military post for the protection of imigrants, being the most dangerous part of the route between tha United States and Willamette. Eight miles below this, there was n small fort, under ths direction of Mr. Daniel Finch, where our travellers were obliged to trade their wearied nbrses for fresh ones. : TIN TXAXB IK ORIOOIT. 207 CIIAPTEll XXVI. Chapman's return for the minute book — Hard time — \ movr— RettirB — White Jiicn — The Platte— Art nature — Platte crane — Polecat — Aah creehr— Thompson — A present — Wolves — Kill a buflalo — A robbery — Y^oudlesa platte, valley, etc. — Bread — History of a lump of sugst^— Singular circumstance — Subbaih morning — Weather — Buf- fali) — Birds — Antelope, etc, — Length of the buflalo district — Large hen! — Kxpress — Warning o( danger — A sign of danger — Pawnees —Unpleasant interruption — Pack-horse frightened— Troublesome Indian — Deporturc — Firing — Another interruption — Number of Indi- ana — Madness of attempting to coniend — Brown and Saxton — Coat taken — A blow — Hard UHBge— A protector — A ride on horse-back— Baxton— Little demons— \ council — Delicate feast — Council more moderole— Another confiscation— J" Bad people behind" — Not to b« gulled — Saxton's visitor — Package of manuscripts — Preparation to start — Kind old squaw — Gratitude — Unpleasant surprise — Advanta* geous trade proposed — Kind interference — Forced trade — Final con- clusion — Dr. Satterly. They started on the 18th, when the doctor, having left his minute book, about noon. Chapman returned for it on foot, and at one the next morning overtook them, in th« midst of a wUd storm of hail and snow. His toes were frost-bitten, and he had denned up three times, like a bear, when, not exactly pleased with his quarters, he at length came on. Nor had the partj fared much better, having re- treated six miles in the course of the night, by reason of falling in with a camp, which they suspected to be the Paw- nees, to a deep gully, where they tied their horses together, and waited the rising of the moon ; after which they retra- 298 TEN TKARS IN 0RSG09. ced their stops to meet Chapman. Reaching a suitable place for encampment, they raised a signal to inform him of their whereabouts, and they, lay down, fireless, amid cold and snow. The next was the morning of the Sabbath, and still storm- ing ; but they managed to kindle a fire, comforting them- selves with the consideration, that the poor horses, at least, had good picking. At twelve they were again off, and found to their relief, that the neighbors they had so much feared, were a white man and his associates, on their way with goods, (o the interior, to trade for buffalo robes. They reached the Platte before twilight, passing through scenery most remarkable, nature having turned her works into a semblance of art. On every side were domes, cas- tles, spires, churches, etc., etc. Buffalo still abounded. On the 20th they arrived again at the Chimney, at twelve halted on the river, and at dusk had made twenty-five miles. The following day they travelled only eighteen miles, but the next, thirty ; after which they stopped on the Platte, and cooked a skunk, which Chapman had caught, and a polecat, which another had killed, iind which Chapman and Saxton pronounced very nice eating. After several days' march, without incident, excepting a nm away of the horses, they arrived at the mouth of Ash creek, the point of turning off for the south Platte, where they spent a night with Wm. P. Thopmson, a Ken- tucky hunter, in the employ of a fur company. He fet^sted them on the nicest treat of buffalo meat which they had yet found. lie wa:^ stopping here by order, to guard goods, and was soon to lea^e for Laramy, where he hunted in the sav- age wilds for the sum of two hundred and fifty dollars per annum, although an educated, high-minded young man, of li s a Ic w in th Tl an be br da SUj we TXV TSARS IN OREGOIT. 299 )er of honorable and wealthy parentage. He presented Dr. White with a fine ham of venison and a set of deer's horns, with nine branches, accompanied with the scalp and cars, for the patent office at Washington. They now found the wolves more numerous than they had ever before seen, and especially troublesome at night. On the 26th they met, and counted, twenty-one in a single drove, very la-^e — the real buTalo wolves — wliich, when inclined, run down the fastest cows, hamstring them, and at will, slaughter whole herds. At dusk, the men killed a large buffalo, and cut from him some of the choicest portions, to the amount of eighty pounds, intending in the morning to get the tongue, etc. To their amazement, the morning brought disappointment, for nothing but the disjointed skeleton remained, notwithstand- ing the carcase could not have weighed less than two thou- sand pounds, some of the party rating it as high as a ton and a half. They travelled on that day thirty miles, down the wood- less Platte, or Plate, as it is justly named, from its great width and shallow waters. It is seldom more than three feet in depth, and at this time unusually low, averaging not more than an inch, and the bottom a perfect bed of quicksand. The valley and table land of this country, is well grassed, and lies handsomely, and if timbered and less sandy, would be very valuable. On the morning of the 26th, being Sabbath, they had bread for breakfast, the first they had eaten for twenty days. D**** brought forward about four ounces of maple sugar. By his mischievous, significant looks, the others were led to enquire where he obtained it, supposing lie had 300 TBN TEARS IN ORKOOV. pfx>curecl it frorn the emigrants, and he seemed as well pleas- ed to inform them as they to know. " Well," said he, " I will give its history. It was made In 1831, and presented to wife and self, at our marriage, by my mother-in-law. It has twice travelled roxmd Cape Horn, through the Pacific to Oregon ; as often over the Rocky Mountains, and spent a sufficient time in the Wallamette val- ley to gain a residence there. Though somewhat dwindled away by its advanced age, it is very sweet, but not as sweet as the recollection of the old lady's kindnesses and many virtues." About ten o'clock, Brown came in with his rifle, express- ing his surprise at something which had just occurred, and remarking that if there was such a thing as a special Provi- dence manifested towards any company, it must be this. *' All the game we have had, has been shot down right in the road, and every endeavor to the contrary has proved abortive, and just now in my attempt to kill a wolf, a circum- gtance happened which beats the d — 1. I loaded my rifle, and passing a wolf, levelled it at him. The cap burst, the piece went off, but the bullet passed half way out of the barrel, and there it stays. I hauled out my pistol and snap- ped it ; the cap burst on the tube, and that did not go off." Chapman advised him to lay aside his gun, and let Sab- bath hunting alone for the future. But Brown replied : " Do you suppose God would give me a gun, and then not allow me to use it? Away with your superstition." And here followed some of his soundest arguments, in justification of Sabbath breaking. Monday, the weather was very fine, and buffaloes aboun> ded, together with the antelope, and birds began to increase in number and variety. The white crane, of about the size, i r n c S SI tl CI fi ni (A m TIN TBARS III ORBOOK. 801 in Ln- Ise and with the habits of the sandhill crane, greatly interested the doctor, and he endeavored to obtain a specimen, but fail- ed. The females, like the males, have the wing tipped with black, but unlike them, both above and below the body, the ends of the feathers are edged with a beautiful golden tinge. Eight hundred miles of the road had been passed, and the travellers hardly been out of sight of buffaloes. The buffalo section commenced at Green river, and ended where they left the Platte. Their habits, like the whales and sav- age tribes, are migratory, remaining for some time in one place, and then suddenly disappearing entirely. The aver- age weight of the male is two thousand pounds, the female something less. Their run, and grunt, resemble that of the hog, but their bellowing is peculiar, resembling i.othing living. They are rapidly vanishing from the country, and must con- tinue to do so, while they are increasingly sought after by the whites and Indians ; stimulated so to do by the white man's finery. The skins only of the females are used for robes, and the cows, too, are generally slaughtered, as their meet is more tender ; a fat one being delicious eating. Out of the vast numbers they saw, not more than one in five were cows, and not more than one in ten of tlA3se had calves. So much for their destruction by the whites, Indians, and still worse, the wolves, which destroy so many of their young. They travelled twenty miles on the 28th, and camped in the midst of timber, on the Platte, finding hardly water enough to have supplied a common grist-mill. Only twenty- five miles from this there was a much greater quantity run- ning on the surface. This day there were thousands of buffaloes within range of their vision — a greater number than they had before seen 302 TKN TEARS IN ORBGOIT. at one time, and were remarkably quiet, lying about like do- mestic animals, and frolicking sportively. On the 29th they met au express of two men from St. Lotus to Fort Laramy, who told them that they would prob- ably meet the Pawnees before they left the Platte ; and they would surely be robbed, if not murdered. On the 31st, at nearly noon, the doctor was riding for- ward to look out, when he saw a smoke shooting up sudden- ly, in the distance, but so dim that he coiild hardly decide that it was more than a passing vapor. But it was repeated at different points of the horizon, and he was convinced it was a sign of danger. They stopped, arranged their packs, and went on a few miles, when they discovered, two or three miles ahead, a horse, apparently struggling to disen- gage himself from a fastening, which he finally succeeded in doing, and shot off in an opposite direction. They con- sidered this a signal, and conclusive that they were in the neighborhood of the Pawnees, who were also aware of their approach. They examined their arms, and determined to avoid them by travelling off the road till night. They had ridden but about three miles, when they saw three savages advancing, immediately in front. They went on without appearing to notice them, when others, to the number of fif- teen, stole up behind them. The doctor turned, and made signs to them to go back; that he was in haste, and could not stop ; but they continued to come on. Seeing this he stopped, and told Saxton to open a pack, and give them some tobacco, the last they had. He. had hardly done so, vfuen one of the horses took fright, and ran with great violence. He and Chapman pursued it, and with great dif- ficulty finally caught it, and were once more ready to move on. But one of the savages, who had been very trouble- «* TEKTIARS IW OREOOK. 803 some and saucy, stepped up to Chapman and demanded some powder, which being refused, he pointed his gun at his head. Fearing the consequences, the doctor ordered C. to comply with the demand, and the Indian left them. While, however, he had been talking, six or seven came round the doctor and grasped his horse's head. He beck- oned Brown to him, and while he pointed his six barrel re- volver at them, told him to do the same, at the same time motioning them to be off. As their visitors departed, they fired at them, seeming to aim particularly at Brown. When they were nearly out of sight, the men filled their pow^- der horns, and pouches, but had hardly started forward again, when, to their chagrin, they saw a couple of sav- ages advancing towards them from the direction of the village, another from the hills, and another and then another from different points, till they were entirely surrounded, and still others arriving on their fleet horses, well armed with war clubs, tomahawks, bows and arrows, and whooping fearfully. Dr. W. cautioned the men to refrain from firing, as it would be madness to contend with so many times their own number. There was a great uproar and confusion, while they robbed each of their captives of some article, such as a blanket, etc. They obliged Saxton, with his pack horee, laden with many valuable papers, to go ahead, and Brown to follow, with a warrior at his bridle. Poor Dr. White brought up the rear. Refusing to allow the pillage of his mails, one rushed furiously at him, and seizing a skirt of his coat, tore it rudely from his shoulder.; another came up and stripped the remnaiit from his back, while a third uncere- moniously took possession of his vest. While engaged in this melee, a warrior came suddenly upon him, and gave him a stunning rap on the temple, while two of his fellows 3^Wf^ 304 TBN TEAKS IK ORKGOIT. I f'- each struck a blow on the top and back of his head. Each of the young men then struggled for a like privilege, and the senses of the victim were fast leaving him, when he saw a huge brave rushing through the crowd with uplifted battle axe, which he supposed would soon be buried in his brain. But instead of this, while he was reeling to the earth, he sprang forward and threw his arms around him, at the same time embracing him with his knees, and shouting loudly for help. The next instant two chiefs came to the rescue, hauling, and thrusting aside the young men, and stood over the prostrate man, assisting to protect him from further out- rage. With this support, the doctor's first protector picked him up, as though he had been an infant, and pressing through the mob, placed his burthen upon a horse, and him- self behind him, and in this way entered the village. At this moment he woke to consciousness, and looking about him, saw none of his party, and supposed they were all slain, when, five minutes afterwards, he discovered Saxton, be> ing conducted in like manner with himself. As they arri- ved to within a few yards of the huts, they were met by numerous children, brandishuig their little weapons, and pointing their mimic arrows at the prisoners, and dancing about with the fury of young fiends. They were placed in seperate lodges, and allowed no intercourse, while a long and stormy council was held. They took a recess about ten o'clock, and the white men were then permitted to see one another, while a feast was being prepared for them. It was composed of very good materials, in the form of a stew, which their cooks probably thought would please them, as they were taken from their own provision bags, tea, coffee, dried meat, and pounded corn, and although well sweetened with sugar, they could taste the peculiar flavor of each. As » medical man D, w . . '*"' h« thought he .h,uid' r.i 2r:; "!;«»■»»«>'»<'». b». "■» »epen.le, especially T '^ j" *" '"«^«»'» of k«i»« ended, the c«m1 ?„ f "" «"f"- Th« fe«. ■•■•to counoH. """"^ tke^awlve., ,«I .^^ ^^^^ This time their ffeafi.r-o '- >»ia.e«>«..hrL7orc •""•"■''"'• '■■'-<>- <»tion. At twelve the bodJ . "^ " '"»'"<' ■»■« young „,e„ ,„^ Jo ^'P'™'- ■-d then aet o^e more fina, till seeing v™'« ^ '"«"'• "^ he be- Ettle embarraaa;, ' ^ '" "^""^'y. they were not . ■About this timfl flo^* "-. tat would nf t sS J!*!!'' '*'" '"-» « "Wte '"•PPer, which wa, a iind^l™^ T *""« ""?' «■« ■»e-t, and directed to tZ ^'"^ "^^ in the war depart- ^; Indian opened I ntT t^ "' '!" ""^ ™^- lodge, and took out an Uni,^ sL '^^"^ * of the «d by the light of the fire at tw^-'^''*'*' " " "PPO"- """inSten or twelves^':' '^'"7'"= ' "^'f^ •^^^•^ ■' • paper reeemhC ieT T' "* ' -»*• port. He then folded the» ri. . ;""• * *'™"'* P»«- -e -t of a™, on each ^^ ^aTt' •'^' '""'^ «« jj^ , ana putting them into the envel- 'J^tf& 'a:„ !'-««»• »>*4.:** 306 TEN TEARS IK OREOOV. ope, kid them under his thicrli, and giving a contomptuoua laugh, left the lodge. The chiefs went into a third council, which was remarka- bly still, as they were probably becoming sleepy, allowing oui* little party to meet once more, and interchange their feelings relative to their prospect of reaching the United States, which they now considered rather dubious, us they were robbed of provisions, clothing, and, as far as they knew, every thing else. From this time, for two hours, all was perfect silence ; but whether from the quantity of tea ho had eaten, or the blows on his head, the doctor was very wake- ful, till the crier passed round the camp, arousing its inmates. They obeyed the call with great alacrity, and in a few mo- ments every lodge was levelled, and preparations were made for a start. The captives looked on anxiously, not knowing what dis- position would be made of them. While this was going for- ward, an old woman stepped up and offered the doctor a bark sack, containing about a peck of com. He received it very gratefully, resolving, if ever he reached home, he '^ould give her a newspaper puff, however he might serve the rest of her nation. But while he was reflecting upon the "generous, pitying nature of woman," to be found, in no matter what part of the earth, his cogitations were unpleas- antly interrupted by her laying hold of his only remain- ing blanket, and claiming it in exchange for the corn. He was about putting an unfavorable construction upon this act, when a man came forward and offered to exchange hor- ses with him — for his was standing near — at which his kind preserver of th6 day pre\aous interfered, making signs that the white man's horse was worth two of his, driving him away, with demonstrations that he was a very bad fellow. Not ?vs*--- )ifi:siiiS^'':i^'& TIH TZARS IN OREOOK. 309 Le Avishing io part with his liorsc, the doctor thought of him, " surely you arc a noble spirit ;" but before the first Indian was fully out of sight, the " noble spirit" brought out a horse not worth half as much as the other, and, reminding him of former services, forced him to trade. His romantic musings were effectually dissipated, and he concluded that the whole nation were a set of rascally, reckless scamps. This is the tribe among whom the accomplished Dr. Saturly, from El* mira. New York, a mission physician, was killed some eight years since. le •M- ■ ■^fef^'i*?i^*^!%^^ 308 TSN TBAR8 7.V ORBOOK. CHAPTER XVXII. Departnre— Prairie on fire — Strong wind— Raw com— Thirst— Dreams —Pool— Indians — Ruae— Living on raw com — ^Big Bine— Grove- Wild tarkey — Lucky shot — ^Postponemenl of a feast — Sabbath — ^Bad night — Indian and family flour — Nice bread — Frozen sqiushes— Residence of Mr. Fish — Beautiful country — ^Westport — Mr. Brown- Independence— Divine worship — ^Visit to the mission. With a few refuse Indian ponies, and the dearly bought bag of com, Chapman, without a hat, and the rest deficient in articles equally necessary, accompanied by three Indians, our " forlorn hope" started for the hills, in the direction the chiefs had advised them to go the night before. The agent felt as though he had been well picked, and like any thing else than a United States government officer. Indeed, he was ostensibly so no longer, for the Pawnees had robbed him of his commission. Their guides escorted them a few miles and left them ; and the party had not proceeded far, when they discovered that the prairie was on fire di- rectly behind them. This had probably been done by the joung men, infuriated at not receiving a share of the booty. It was the first of November, the wind strong, and from the north-west, while they were travelling to the south-east, driving the fire immediately upon them ; and the long dry grass affording excellent combustible matter. They jour- neyed on till two o'clock, and then turned their horses loose upon the prairie, while they ate a few ears of dry com, -w:;V^i.^.- it^si»i8,7'? ij*' ..^^. m- §^: TBir TXAR8 IN OREOOK. 309 St, Ise which, as they were very hungry, relished much better than they had expected. But the horses were so thirsty that they wo\ild not graze, so they remounted, the fire having gained rapidly upon them during the fe^ moments they had tarried, lliey pushed on until between one and two o'clock at night, suf- fering from want of water, of Tvhich they had not found a drop, when, the heavy dews having somewhat checked the fire, they determined to rest. They had hardly laid down on the old buffalo skins, gra- ciously given them by the Indians, w aen, through excessive weariness, they dropped asleep. They had dozed but a short time, when Chapman screamed out "fire! fire! the fire is upon us!" The others started up, but laid down again, for the exclamation was *caused by the feverish dreams of the sleeper. But their sleep was incessantly dis- turbed by visions of fire, Indians, and water. At the end of an hour they were somewhat refreshed, and, g'uded by the north star, endeavored to keep to the eastward, and morning light soon came to their assistance. The fire now gained upon them, and they toiled on in severo suffering, until eleven o'clock, when, to their unspeakable joy, they found a pool of water. They drank as much as they dared for three hours, the wind veering so as measura- bly to relieve them ; and as to the poor animals, they had muck difiiculty to prevent them from injuring themselves by excessive drinking. At last they reluctantly moved forward, changing to a north-east direction, hoping soon to reach their road, but had gone only a few miles when they caught sight of Indi- KfkB, manifestly in pursuit of them. This, with their late adventures, was heart-sickening and discouraging. They 310 TKW TEARS IN OREOOK. '^{^ knew that tliey came to plunder them of their little remain- i ng property, and their scalps. Poor Brown was intensely agitated, and spoke tenderly of his wife and children. The doctor cheeringly told him that they shoiUd have time to despond when they were nearer their foes, as they were nearly two miles distant, and that now was the time for ac- tion. They pushed directly forward as though they had dis- covered nothing, till they descended into a ravine, and wer» hidden from the sharp eyes of their pursuers, when they turned quickly round the hill, and thus avoided them. Three hours from this they suddenly, to their infinite relief, came out upon the great Oregon wagon trail. They were all suf- ficiently grateful, but poor Saxton, like Columbus, fell upon his face, and kissed the ground, and blessed the God of Heaven. Tliey travelled wearily, but gladly on, till three o'clock in the morning, when the doctoi', from extreme pain in his wounded head, fever, and exhaustion from want of food and water, was about to say to his companions, "go on, and if you can reach the States, well. I can go no fur- ther / — but the reflection came that this would have a dis- couraging influence upon them, and that it was liis duty, to persevere as long as he could stand. A short time after this they happily came in sight of a grove, a suitable place for encampment. They tarried here a couple of hours, taking more raw corn, with pure creek water, and Averc greatly re- freshed. For eight long days they plodded on, subsisting upon corn, raw, boiled, and roasted. These days for the doctor wore full of pain, debility, and an ' Uy. Ilis injured bead was in such a condition that ho was some of the time i n fearful danger of a brain fever. They could not make rapid progress, as the Pawnees, on the principle that " ex- change is no robbery," among the rest of their favors had 11 s tSjs«i^ ,*'" TKN ITEAIiS IN OREQON. 311 Ic le given them a colt eighteen months old, a one eyed two years' old poney, and a poor, crippled old creatm-c, unfit for any service, in the stead of their valuable horses. However, they pressed patiently on, till the ninth day at evening, they reached the Big Blue, where, as they entered a grove, they heard the wild turkeys "quit! quit!"' in the trees above their heads. Iloviug so long fed upon raw corn, it now soured on their stomachs, and they were in such a state, as to be actually an offence to themselves, and were never more impressed with the idea that such food was designed for quadrupeds of the baser sort, rather than human beings. Turkeys, that night, bore a prominent part in their dreams. Brown and Chapman were up betimes, to get a shot at them, Avith their last charges in their guns, which had now been loaded over nine days. They stealthily crept along to the best possible position, and endeavored to fire at the same breath, afterwards declaring that they took aim,as though their lives depended — and perhaps they did — on the result. Brown's shot took effect, and down tumbled a turkej', and here turned in the proudest possible mood, while Chapman was in a correspondingly opposite. Thinking that the re- port of the guns might endanger their. safety, they deferred their repast till camping. T^vening came, the turkey was picked, and cooked with parched corn, and, although guilt- less of yalt, was excellent. This meal changed the action of their stomachs, and materially improved their condition. The next day, Sabbath, they worked hard, and made twen- ty-two miles. At night the doctor sat down, much fatigued, and, lean- ing against an old tree, gladly ate his handful of corn, drank some cold Avater, and soon forgot all his troubles in sleep. B ■!<»*'%»i- f"T. '-•'•■•*' 813 TIN TBARS IN ORXOOIT. But he awoke at interval very cold, and on the whole, it was a tedious night, with little sleep. The next day was fine, and the country beautiful, though the grass was coarse and dead, and the horses fared badly. The next day they mired, and were obliged to leave their best horse. The fol- lowing was marked by no event, save meeting an Indian and his family, of whom they obtained a turkey and a little flour. They pressed down the river, and arrived at a Frenchman's, where, with considerable difficulty, they bought another small quantity of flour. Eight hours after they camped, and, mixing some flour with water, baked it on withes, twisted, and woven in the form of a snow shoe. They foxmd several frozen squashes, probably discarded by the Indians, which they boiled, and thickened with flour, making the first full meal they had eaten in twelve days. Two days afterwards they entered the house of Mr. Charles Fish, who was in the service of the Methodist Epis- copal Church, as blacksmith among the Shawnee Indians. His lady kindly prepar'^d them a noble repast of pork, drid venison, potatoes, and bread. They departed the next morning, having dismissed forever the Pawnee sack of com, which had become disgusting to their eyes as well as palates. That evening having passed through a beautiful, woody district of country, they arrived at the little hamlet of West- port, on the western suburb of Missouri. Their reception from Mr. Boon, nephew of the distinguished hunter, Daniel Boon, was kind and handsome. They hero doffed their Pawnee fixins for robes of another texture, and spent the night at Mr. Geer's hotel, where they were enter- tained very pleasantly. The next morning they set out for Independence, a distance of only twelve miles, where Dr. W. had the happiness of meeting several old friends, and ■a!^»-^ . TIN TEARS IK OKBOON. 31S also of attending divine worship^ and seldom had the service of the sanctuary been more grateful to him. Having been favorably impressed -with the external appearance of the mission they had passed, three miles west of Westport, the doctor determined to return and visit it. He found it under the direction of Mr Berryman, with a school of not less than one hundred members. Mills, and every depart- ment of mechanism was carried on with the assistance of the pupils, and never did he vbit a mission more flourishing, or in better condition. The plantation contamed six hundred acres, well fenced, and in a fine state of cultivation. He here learned the death of Rev. Jason Lee, and obtained other news of interest. ^■■J^il^JL. > fcMaJ*i:s«M.-...- ?<:-^i' V^' 314 TBN TEARS IK ORKOOK. CHAPTER XXVIII. Outline of journey to Washington— Gracious reception— Thoughts of home — Meeting with friends in New York city — Reach Ithaca — Arrival home— Letter to the editor of a western paper — Decrease of the Indian population in Oregon— Timbers of Oregon — Fossils — Animals — Birds — Soil — Legislators of Oregon — Anecdote — Wrong of the government in not extending jurisdiction over Oregon — Treat- ment of public officers — Treatment of Dr. White. Dr. W. left Independence for St. Louis in company Avith Mr. Beach, an Indian agent to the Sacs and Foxes ; a gen- tleman from Charleston, a third in the employ of the north- western fur company, just from his post in the interior! a Baptist clergyman, originally from the Genesee vrilley, who had travelled extensively both in this country and Europe, and a Catholic priest, professor in the uni\'crsity at St. Louis. The last two carried on several eccle- siastical discussions, which were very intesesting, from the ability with which they were managed, and the excellent spirit which was manifested, creditable to both their heads and hearts. The gentleman from South Carolina, expatiated largely on the virtues of Mr. Calhoun, with true southern enthusiasm. The gentleman from the Rocky Mountdins, dwelt upon the novelties and advantages of the fur trade in by-gone days, contrasting them with its present condition, at the same time speaking warmly of the good resulting from the exclusion of alcoholic drinks from the territory. On the fourth day, at evening, they arrived at St. Louis, and h^ m. 'S Wi^T./''V " '^*' "sa^"^ 'm tePES7':^:if?.'j^'j-: TBN TEARS IN OREGON. ■i!rf»^-PKti-':*' m«si^^ 315 the doctor was not a little siirprised at its wonderful growth, during the last four years. While here, his old friend, Dr. Phillips, from Ithaca, called and offered him a seat in hb carriage, and they together visted all the public places t2 the city. There he took a steamboat for Cincinnati, having on board Mr. George Smixer, bearing the body of his wife to their former home, in Kentucky, for burial. He also made the acquaintance of Mr. , who, with his lady, was on his way to Washington, to take his departuie for his consul- ship, at Trieste. At Cincinnati he spent a short season with his brother, and then started up the river for Washington. They had proceeded but a short distance, when the river was completely blocked up with ice, and the passengers were obliged to land, and take land conveyances. At the village of , below Pittsbiu-gh, the doctor was glad to exchange the lumber- wagon for a stage-coach, to convey them over the mountains. The journey was attended with some hardship, and considerable danger of upsetting, as several had already done, at the expense of broken limbs, etc. The journey by railroad, via. Baltimore, was speedy and pleasant, bringing him to Washington, as he had ardently hoped, at the com- mencement of the session. As this was the time of the great 54° 40' dispute, and the agent so recently from the territory, bearing despatches from its Icgislatme, his reception was the more gracious. As was his duty, he first paid his respects to the commmissioner of Indian affairs, the Hon. Wm. Medill, to whom he had pre- viously sent in his report. He received him with marked kindness, and after a short interview, proposed accompanying him to Mr. Marcy's, secretary of war. Both accompanied him to the white house, where the doctor was presented to Mr. Polk, who invited him to an interview with himself and the 4 m\ M^' S16 TKM TBAR8 15 ORSOOK. secretary of war, at dusk, as he would then be at lei- sure. He then returned to his lodgings, scarcely repressing a smile at the seeming importance a four years' residence in the Oregon woods had given him. But in the midst of kind and flattering attention from all quarters, he could not for- get his dear family, from whom, till this trip to Oregon, he had never been separated, at any one time, exceeding a fortnight. Therefore, despatching his business as soon as possible, with a heart throbbing with yearning emotions, he started for his home in the lake country of New York. He spent a night in New York city, where he enjoyed the plea- sure of meetmg with several friends, and among them was the sheriff of the county where he resided, and his old friend, Mr. McGormick, of Ithaca, with whom he travelled from the city. They reached Ithaca the last day of the year, from whence the doctor hastened to his little cottage home, in Lansing, where he was once more clasped in the embrace of his family. Extract from a letter, written by Dr. White, soon after his return, to the editor of a western paper : M • * All is right in Oregon, so far as relates to the prosperity and contentment of those who have emi- grated to that distant region ; and notwithstanding the in- convenience experienced for the want of a proper circulating medium, for an exchange of commercial commodities, yet it is but just to say, I know of no people so generally pros- perous and happy. Indeed, sir, the universal expression of the virtuous and intelligent part of the population, is, that Oregon excels the world for health, variety of beautiful scenery, certfunty of good crops, excellence of water, and water privileges, for abundance of the choicest quality of I ..'"^".i*^ ]■■ i nir TBARS IN OREOOK. 31Y salmon, and for strength and depth of soil. I know of no people so generally, or so highly pleased with their loca- tions, or homes, as those of the Willamette valley. From a nine years' residence there, I must pronounce it the most mild, equable, and salubrioiis climate of which I have any knowledge. Nor do I believe any population have suffered so little from sickness, or had so few deaths in the same length of time, since the commencement of the colonizing of America. All portions of Oregon are distinctly healthy ; most parts well adapted to grazing ; a district, as Captain Wilkes so justly remarked, of the lower portion, su£Bcient to sustain a population equal to that of New England, is admi- rably fitted both for grazmg and agriculture. * * *»» it It is believed that no longer ago than the commencement of the present century, not less than five hundred thousand Indians inhabited the wilds west of the Rocky Mountains, within the territory of Oregon. Even admitting this, how sparse a population is thb, in comparison with any por- tion of the civilized world. Dr. White, by the most careful attention, in his official investigations in 1845, found, to his entire satisfaction, that not exceeding twenty-seven thousand aborigines were left, making a decrease, in less than half a century, of nine-tenths. This astonishing diminution was brought about by the introduction into the country, of the white man and hb diseases ; among the latter, that frightful scourge, the small- pox has made fearful ravages, and in many parts the fever and ague, in the first opening of the forests, and turning over of the prairie, has been sUll more fataL The w^ods of Oregon exhibit the two opposite extremes more forcibly than perhaps any other country. The east- em part is very sparsely timbered, and that of very stinted ^=M •sSJ i^^msmsML^^- 316 TBN TKARS IN ORBOOK. growth ; the western is happily interspersed with prairie and timber, the latter of very luxuriant growth. The variety is quite limited ; the red, and white fir, cedar, pine, sycamore, alder, oak, white and black, hard and soft maple, ash, elm, cotton wood, dogwood, crab, and elder, the latter of which, grows, as Mr. Parker remarks, to a size elsewhere unknown. The following comprise some of the natural fruits : goose- berries, strawberries, blackberries, serviceberries, cranber- ries, and Scotchcap, crab apples, wild cherries, wild peas, and thorn apple. The fossil kingdom affords small variety, the basaltic rock being found in larger quantities than any other. Few speci- mens of real granite arc found, and they scattered about in ledges of a few hundred tons, and long distances apart. White marble is also semetimcs found in the upper country ; lime and sand stone finish the variety, except far to the north, free stone is found in large quantities. Though strong indi- cations on the surface seem to suggest that Oregon abounds in minerals, yet, from the slight observations thus far made^ ooal, iron, and platina alone have been discovered, and it is supposed by many, that the earth has undergone such change in the heat of volcanic actioii, that most of the minerals have been reduced to a state of fusion, and escaped. The buffalo, whose old trails show how numerous they have been on the western side of the mountains, are now fast disappearing, the comparatively few there are left, are in the eastern and upper portions of the country. The elk, black-tailed and common deer, grizzly and black bear, three species of the wolf, wildcat, panther, fox, hare, rabbit, ante- lope, racoon, porcupine, weasel, polecat, squirrel, mountain sheep, beaver and otter constitute the animals of the terri- tory. The birds, are the eagle, swan, goose, loon, duck, "^m :^mm^^ _-T'W7*™.^?rjyVTI TEN TEARS IH OREOOK. 319 brant, crow, hawk, raven, mngpic, pigeon, wren, robin, swal- low, bluojay, buzzard, cormorant, gull, owl, bluebird, yel- lowbird, and hummingbird. There arc probably a few oth- ers, omitted in the above list. The soil of the interior and eastern portion is light and sandy, like Poland, being cnpaciated for grazing rather than arable purposes ; while in the western and south-western it is a mixture of clay, loom and sand, and alluvial deposit, much of the soil partaking of a salicous nature, and is ad- mirably adapted to the production of wheat, indeed, no country excells it in this respect. The legislators of Oregon are selected from three classes ; First, mission gentlemen, not clergymen, but those filling the secular department ; second, the most enterprising and in- telligent of the western people, who have settled in the country, with considerable property; the third class are principally those who have previously been for a considera- ble time in the fur companies, and have now settled in the Willamette valley. They f reqently, after the business of the day, amuse the first two classes, with tales of by -gone days, contrasting their present situation with what it was when they were himting and trapping with the tribes of the mountains. Joseph Meek — ^now in the states with the news of the disturbances in Oregon — the first sheriff elected un- der the provisional government, and afterwards representa- tive ; a real wag, was famous for his wit, rcady-mindedness, and especially for his ample fund of good humor and bra- vely. He was once hard pressed by the Black Feet, and on a tardy. moving mule, and his companions, being better moun- ted, soon distanced him. The bullets flew around his ears, and through his garments, and spurring furiously, he shout- ed to his friends "stop! stop! hold on, boys! there is no ii •». ,;^^^r'-- I^ 820 nir TiAiia nr ORKOoff. danger !'" But thej pushed on unheedingly, dibtrusting his tssurances of safety, when occular demonstration so strongly asserted to the contrary. Suddenly, muly received a flesh wound, it stirred up his locomotive powers, and he exercised them to admiration, for to the astonishment of his rider, he overtook his company and passed them. As he was rapidly leaving them hehind, he cried, at the top of his voice, " Come on ! come on, I tell you ! Hide for your lives ! They will kill every blood of you." They were now more credulous than before, and strove to obey him with all the speed of their horses. His escape under Providence, was owing to the leaden tou^h received by the sensitive plant he bestrode. This legislative body have agtun and again petitioned the congress of the United States to extend jurisdiction over Oregon, making sensible, and even moving appeals, urging the moral wrong of strippmg the Indian race of their lands, game and fisheries, without rendering compensation for what is to them so valuable ; also of leaving American citizens, who were encouraged to emigrate to that country, surround- ed by hordes of Indians without any protection from the home government. The irritation on the part of the natives arising from the whites pouring in, in such numbers, and de- spoiling them oi their rights, often jeopardizes the dearest interests of the settlers, and reflects great discredit on the government, for not righting the wrong of the Indians, and protecting her own citizens. No people, under the circum- stances, could have behaved more worthily, and none have been, apparently, more coldly neglected. Indeed, govern- ment is accused of having been culpably remiss in the per- formance of her duties both to the Oregonians, and those who have been there employed in her service. AH such offi- I'iM ■'■n^M O ?!.?•«. • ,.»■% TBN TBAR8 \V ORBOOV. 321 cers as have even touched there, in the performance of their official duties, instead of being liberally rewarded for their faithfulness, seem to have received that which was not so gratifying. Commodore Wilkes nobly braved the dangers and difficulties of his long, exploring campaign, doing honor to himself and his country, in developing the condition and resources of Oregon. Immediately on his arrival at Wash- ington, on a few, petty, malicious accusations, he was court- marshalled, and it was gravely decided that he should re- ceive an open reprimand from the secretary of war. Colonel Fremont, certainly one of the most intrepid spirits of the age, has twice visited Oregon, and so far as the public have been permitted to perceive, is deserving of the highest encomiums. On his return, a dejected prisioner, from his post of danger, where he appears to have been le- gitimately placed, he is dragged before another Washington tiibunal. Here, what a large sum of money was ex- pended in " endeavors to blast the prospects, and blight the fame" of this indefatigable laborer for the public weal, and he is professedly found guilty of treason. The president, no at all concurring in this expression, and yet unwilling that so grave a body should be dishonored, under his administra- tion, treats the subject in such a manner, that Fremont, in disgust, throws up his commission, and retires forever from the service of his country. Dr. White, whose reports were treated in the most flat- tering manner by the commissioner of Indian affairs, in hb reports to the secretary of war, continued, with every dem- onstration of favor, the whole of his term — four years — in his perilous, and arduous duties, in which, in the absence of all aid from the government, he seems to have been entirely successful. He finally returned by the request of, and bear- 21 322 TBN TEARS IH OREOOIT. < |#- mg a memorial and petition from, the legislature of Oregon, and was received at Washington with every indication of kind regard, and as I find from a note in his possession, di- rected by the secretary of war, dated the 5th of January three days after reaching his family, he is ordered back to his agency as socn as practicable. And yet, on account of a paltry sum he is obliged to disbui-se annually, to preserve peace and quietness between the whites and Indians, he is de- tained at Washington^ on heavy expenses, for nine months, to get a bill passed through congress for his relief, In the meantime, some malicious persons, taking advanti^e of his detention, and make such representations, as impair his credit with the president, and be is given to understand, / that he is no longer required in the service. So he retiree from his thankless office, having retained it at the stupen- dous yearly salary of seven hundred and fifty dollars, for the performance of laborious and onerous duties, while a clerk at Washington receives from one thousand to fifteen hundred dollars for six hours' labor per day, and living at their ease. Every eflfort was made by Dr. White's numer- ous friends at the capitcl, to double his salary according to the unquestionable intijaat'.ons held out by Mr. Spencer, sec- retary of war, under president Tyler, to the doctoi-, on en- tering the service, as will be seen by the following letter : Albany, July 99, 1846. Dr. Eluah WHrrs : Dear Sir : Your letter of the 22d inst. was duly received ; and I regret that circumstances have prevented an earlier an- swer. In compliance with your request, I proceed to state the circumstances of your appointment of Indian sub-agent /or the Oregon country. TBH TSARS IN OREGON. 328 e i- )r a At r- to lO- n- id; an- aie eut Soon after entering the war department, my attention was turned to the condition of the citizens residing upon, or in the vicinity of the Columbia river. They were not only without any government to regulate themselves, but they were prac- tically without the protection of their own government, and exposed to the encroachments of the British authorities there, as well as to the attacks of the Indians. In the thon condition of our I'elations with Great Britun, it was very important that our citizens should have some known agent of the government, to whom they roight look for advice and some degree of protection ; and it was equally important that the government should have some trustwor- thy and responsible officer upon the spot, to watch our in- terests and inform us of every movement of the Britisa au- thorities and of the Hudson's Bay company, and to inter- pose, as far as possible, to prevent Indian aggressions. While the subject was tmder consideration, both by the pres- ident and myself, you appeared at Washington and was in- troduced to me. We learned that you had resided at Willa- mette, on the Columbia, and in conversation with you, I found you to be well informed on the subject, and that you fully appreciated the objects of an agency there. After con- sultation with the president, and with Dr. Linn, the distin- guished Senator from Missouri, who for years had taken par- ticular interest in the matter, and with their advice and sanc- tion, I proposed to you the appointment of Indian sub-agent for the Indians west of the Rocky Mountains — ^that being the only office in the power of the executive to bestow which would at all answer the purpose in view, and you was urged to accept it, and to raise as large a company of our citizens as possible, to proceed with you, and settle in the Oregon country. The insufficiency of the salary — sevcii t4 TEN TEARS IN OREGOK. hundred and fifty dollars — was autnitted, but it was the best we could offer ; and, as an inducement to you to accept the appointment, you was told that a bill had been, or would be, introduced into the senate by Dr. Linn, in relation to the Or- egon territory, in which provisions would be made for Indian agencies of a higher grade and greater compensation ; and I think one thousand five hundred or two thousand dollars was mentioned as the probable salary. You was assured, that if such a bill passed congress, you would receive an appoint- ment to the highest grade of agency, and that you might depend upon the support of the department, and the gf d will of the president — and the utmost liberality co>< -]stt t • with the laws, in defraying any extra expenses which they authorized. Under these circumstances you accepted the appointment of 3ub-Indian agent, and I have no doubt with the expectation of receiving an appointment of a higher grade, and with a larger salary. The bill of Senator Linn did not pass, and you was ieft in the place to which you was originally appointed. I bear testimony very cheerfully to the fidelity and zeal with which you discharged the duties of your station, and endeavored to accomplish th" objects of government. You succeeded in organizing a party of more than one hundred of our citizens to emigrate to Oregon ; and I have every rea- son to believe that your services were eminently useful to the government, and beneficial to the settlers. I deeply regret that it was not in the power of the administration, of which I was a member, to render you adequate remuneration for those services, and for the great labor and toil, and the de- votion of your time, to what was then deemed, and is still believed to have been, objects of great public interest. I i TVS YEARS IN OREGOX. 325 trust that the present congress will make a liberal provision for the deficiency. Very respectfully, your ob't servant, J. C. SPENCER. . I The above is in answer to one written by Dr. White, at the request of the committee on Indian affairs, relative to the circumstances of his appointment of Indian Sub-Agent for Oregon Territory. But the exertions of his friends were defeated by a few heated partizans of the south, who, as the bill, by a two-thirds vote, came up out of its usu- al order, the last hour of the session, proposed an amend- ment, reducing the proposed stipend of fifteen hundred dol- lars, to seven hundred and fifty dollars, their organ swear- ing that unless accepted, he would speak out the remnant of the time allotted, and thereby defeat the bill. The doc- tor's friends were silenced, and he, after his public expendi- tures were paid, obliged to accept this paltry sum for defraying annually the private expenses of himself and family; while his opponents were receiving eight dollars per day, with all contingent expenses and franking privile- ges granted additionally, by their own legisl' tive enactment. This handsome dismissal was received very philosophically, and he retired to the bosom of his family, in Lansing — the little hamlet, only three miles from the beautiful Cayuga, But, while the spot was so well supplied with natural beau- ties, it was wanting in others that would add to its attrac- tion. The place was in a much depressed condition, al- though surrounded with thrift, wealth, and, as has since been demonstrated, public spirit. But this spirit was in a state of inactivity, and the first exertions of the doctor were 926 TIM TEARS IK OREOOff. directed to its arousal, and success crowned the effort far beyond what might have been anticipated. The house of God, a neat brick church, was first painted within and without, handsomely fenced, with other fixtures, and corresponding improvements. Next, the public house, the only liquor establishment, is purchased by sixteen gen- tlemen, at the expense of one hundred dollars each, and un- er a strong constitution, becomes tee-total forever; is re- r)>t*^e<*, and put into a condition to be carried on in connexion Tv.. iinal enterprise, exceeding the others in magnitude and good purpose. A large, fine building — formerly a church — on a commanding site, is no longer to be abandoned and run to dilapidation. Lansing, nothing wearied, redoubles her efforts, and in a short time thousands are contributed to fit up a literary institution, worthy the position and such a people. And what undertaking more highly commendable than to provide * fered no abatement since I left them in March last, after hav- ing spent the winter with them most pleasantly, as teacher, in the employ of Rev. H. H. Spalding, missionary. Ellis, r^» TSABS IK ORKOOV. 88f M[oun- ave at 1 now as yet \ to da, m than whitw b't and l.U. ^,1845. jme, that 1 migbt the va- taring to in order leir pas- lith thw ak of Ut their Lve suf- er ha?- leacher, SUis, With most of the chiefs, was absent, having gone to meet the emigrants, t.:cn in the vicinity of fort Boisie, with a view to furnish them provisions, and trade them horses for cattle. You are aware of their eagerness to obtain domestic stocli, and farming utensils, which I regard as one of the most in- teresting facts connected with Indian affairs west of the Rocky Mountains. Avarice is doubtless the ruling passion of most Indians, and forms a capital upon which those enga* ged in Indian affairs may operate for good or evil. With the Nez Perces, it has thvts far, been turned to good account, ef- fecting results as beneficial to the whites and more salutary to the natives themselves, on this side the mountains, than has been effected on the other side by military fwce. Such is the prevalence of this " love of gain" amongst the Indi- ans, that all efforts to control them by motives held out to any other passion, must prove ineffectual, at least, whUe we are unable to awe them by martial parade. The individual difficulties existing between James, Timo- thy, and others, in relation to t ■ li- claims on the valley, about l??« Clearwater mission, are, for li time, put to rest by the promise that you will visit them soon, an roll. 1844. ictobcr» lelayed in your ji truly and de- st intcr- decidedy Lcific lies re equa- in the 'ound it le most present He whole uperioi*, vre have we have suitable be pre- ly other and as a wheat-growing country, this ranks in the very first class. The crop is not only of the best quality, but is always large i and there is no such occun'ence as a failure in the wheat crop. For potatoes, melons, turnips, and garden vegetables jD(enera11y, our soil is superior. Indian corn does not succeed well, and in fact we have no use for it, as our cattle live all the year upon the natural pastures of the country. Since I have been here, I have myself been engaged in farming oc- cupations, and I have been astonished at the very small amount of labor required to cultivate a farm. Potatoes are planted, and nothing more is done to them until they are ready for digging ; when they are not dug, but generally turned up with the plow. Peas are sown broad-cast, like wheat, and are neither staked nor cultivated, and produce in great abundance. Plowing is done here from the month of September until July, and wheat is sown from October to May ; and potatoes are planted in March, April, and May. A team of two horses, with a very light, easy plow, can break prairie land ; but a team of two yoke of oxen is most generally used. I am informed that timothy, clover, and blue grass all grow well in the soil of Oregon. For pasturage this country is pre-eminent. Horses, cattle, and sheep require neither feed nor shelter, and keep fat all the year round. Hogs are raised here with partial feeding, and pork is generally fattened upon wheat, and finer pork I never saw anywhere. I omitted to mention in its appropriate place that our har- vesting commences about the 20th of July, and continues throughout the month of August ; and during the present year we had no rain from about the 1st of July to the 16th October, so that we had the finest weather for saving our f^rops imaginable. r ■ 844 TXK T1AR8 IN ORBOOH. » One thing that strikes the beholder of this country ^ith greatest force, is the unsurpassable beauty of its scenery. We have snow-clad mountains, beautiful valleys, pure, rapid streams running over pebbly beds, with numerous cascaden and waterfalls,- and trees of superior grandeur and beauty. The government of Oregon h is grown up from necessity ; and perhaps no new organization has been adopted and sus- tained with such unanimity and good order. Every circum- stance has tended to strengthen it. I attended the last term of the circuit courts in most of the counties, and I found great respect shown to judicial authority every where ; and did not see a solitary/ drunken juryman, or witness, or spec- tator. So much industry, good order, and sobriety, I hav# never observed in any community. Our population seem to be exceedingly enterpiising, and are making rapid progress to comfort and wealth. As yet, wo have had no murders, no robberies, thefts, or felonies of any kind, except one as- sault with intent to kill. Our gram' jurors have exhibited very laudable assiduity in discharging their duties, and crim- inals here will meet with certain and prompt punishment. Nature has displayed here her most magnificent powers, and our country has its full share of natural advantages. Our prospects are most brilliant. If we can keep out intoxica- tion, and we will do it, half a century will not roll away be- fore there will exist in Oregon one of the most industrious, virtuous, free, and commercial nations in the world. I have already protracted this communication beyond iu> appropriate length, and will now close it by subscribing myself, Yours, etc. PETER H. BURNETT. Dr. E. Whitb. I* TBN TKAR8 IN ORKGOK. 345 y with Bcnery. B, rapid Eiscadet beauty, cessity ; ind 8US- circum- ist term I found ire ; and or spec- ', I hav# seem to progress murders, L one as- bxbibited ,nd crim- imcnt. vers, and Our intoxica- iway be- ustrious, yond itis )scribing fETT. Whereas the people of Oregon, now occupying one of the most beautiful and interesting portions of (he globe, are placed in the most critical and responsible position ever filled by men, owing, as they do, important duties to themselves, to their country, to posterity, and to mankind, as the foun- ders of a new government and a young nation ; and whereas the introduction, distillation, or sale of ardent spiiits, under the circumstances in which we are placed, would bring withering ruin upon the prosperity and prospects of this interesting and rising community, by involving us in idle and dissolute habits, inviting hither swarms of the dissipated in* habtants of other countries, checking emigration, destroying the industry of the country, bringing upon us the swarms of savages now in our midst, interrupting the orderly and peaceable administration of justice, and in a word producing and perpetuating increasing and untold miseries that no mind can rightly estimate : therefore. Be it enacted by the Legislative Committee of Oregon, a» follows: Article I. Sec. 1. That if any person shall hereafter import or in- troduce any ardent spirits into Oregon, with intent to sell, barter, or trade the same, and shall offer the same for sale, barter, or trade, he shall be fined the sum of fifty dollars for each and every such offence, which may be recovered by in- dictment or by trial before a justice of the peace, without the form of pleading. Sec. 2. That if any person shall hereafter sell, barter, or trade any ardent spirits of any kind whatever, directly or indirectly, to any person in Oregon, he shall forfeit and pay f r^P'^lJ^^tT" «4« TBM TIAIUB IM OMEOOir. I !l the sum of twenty dollars for each and every such sale, barter, or trade, to be recovered by indictment in the circuit court, or before a justice of the peace, without the form of pleading. Sec. 9. That if any person shall hereafter establish or carry on a manufactory or distillery of ardent spirits in Or- egon, he shall be subject to be indicted before the circuit oourt as for a nuisance ; and if convicted, he shall be fined the sum of one hundred dollars, and the court shall issue an order to the sheriff, directing him to seize and destroy the d' Hilling apparatus, which order the sheriff shall exe- cute. Sec. 4. That it shall be the duty of all sheriffs, judges, justices, constables, and other officers, when they have rea- HMi to believe that this act has been violated, to give notice thereof to some justice of the peace, or judge of a court, who shall immediately issue his warrant and cause the of- fending party to be arrested, and, if such officer has juris- diction to try such case, shall proceed to try such offender without delay, and give judgement accordingly ; but, if such officer have not jurisdiction to try the case, he shall, if the party be guilty, bind him over to appear before the next cir- dut court of the proper county. Sec. 5. That all sales, barters, or trades, made under color of gifts or otherwise, with an intention to evade this act, shall be deemed a violation of the same ; and all fines and penalties recovered under this act shall go into the gen- eral treasury ; and all officers receiving the same shall pay over to the sheriff, whose duty it shall be to pay the same into the treasury. Sec. 6. That thb act shall not be so construed as to • ^51 TBir TKAKS nr oMcaoir. MT I sale, circuit irm of lish or } inOr- circuit )e fined U issue destroy Bill exe- judges, ive rea- e notice a court, the of- as juris- offender , if such 1, if the next cir- under ide this lall fines the gen- lall pay ie same as to prevent any practicing physician from selling such liqucwB for medicine, not to exceed one gallon at one time. Sbo- 7. That the clerk shall make out a copy of this act, and put the same up in Oregon City as soon as practi- •able. Sue. 8. That thb act shall take effect within sixty days from and after its passage. Passed 24th June, 1844. M. M. McARVER, Speaker. At(estr-J. £. Long, Clerk. An Act to provide for ways and means. Ih if macted by the Legislative ComtiiiHet of Oregon ta follows: Article 1. Skc. 1. That in order to raise a revenue for the pur- pose of defraying the expenses of the government, there shall be levied and collected a tax of one-eighth of one per cent, upon the following property, at a fair valuation, to- wit: — All merchandise brought into this country for sale; improvements in town lots ; mills, pleasure carriages, clocks, watches, horses, mules, cattle, and hogs. Sec. 2. All male citizens over the age of twenty-one years, being a descendant of a white man, shall be subject to pay a poll tax of fifty cents. Sec. 8. That it shall be the duty of the collector of rev- enue to require of each and every merchant of Oregon to give him a statement of the amount of all merchandise on hand, in writing, to be stated upon oath or affirmation, which oath or affirmation the collector shall administer; and said col- lector shall collect and receipt for the tax upon such mer- "j'«^-"^''^'?Jpr§^'^.''5.'?*T *"' 848 TIN TKARB IN ORKOOV. i^ cbandise, which receipt shall servo said merchant for • license for the next year, commencing from the time given. And that when a merchant shall wish to renew his license, he shall give a similar statement of all merchandise received by him for sale in the preceding twelve months, and the collector shall only require him to pay tax upon the amount of said imports. Sec. 4. That any person refusing to pay tax as in thi^ act required, shall have no benefit of the laws of Oregon, and shall be disqualified from voting at any election in thin country. Sec. 5. That the sherift' shall serve as «« ojfficio collec- tor of the revenue, for which he shall receive, as a compen- sation for his services, ten per cent, upon all moneys col- lected as revenue. Sec. 6. That the sheriff, before entering upon his duries as collector of the revenue, shall enter into bond, wiiii wo or more good and sufficient securities, in a sum not less than five nor more than ten thousand dollars, to be approved by the executive, which approval shall be written upon the back of said bond, and the said collector's bond shall be filed in the office of the clerk of the court. Sec. 7. That the collector shall pay over to the treasu- ry, on the first Monday in each and every month in the year, all moneys that may be in his hands, and g( i the treasurer's receipt therefor. Sec. 8. That it shall be the duty of the tribunal trans- acting county business, to require the collector to settle with aaid court at each and every regular term of said court in Klackamas county. Sec. 9. The collector of the revenue shall make full pay TKM TBARS IN OREOOH. 349 t for ft } given, license, received and the amount IS in thi^ Oregon, n in thin collec- compen- neys col- his dufies wiLiJ ..wo less than . iroved by ipon the [\\ be filed le treasu- Ithe year, Measurer's lal trans - ktle with [court in IfuUpay ment into the ( rerisury on or before the first Monday in De- cember in each year. Sec. 10. The revenue of Oregon shall be collected in specie or available orders on solvent merchants in Oregon. 8ec. 11. That all acts and parts of acts contrary to this act be, and the same are hereby repealed. Seo. 12. This act to take effect from and after its pas- .cted, as well as the evil it has pre- sented, we wish it every succu-ss, and hope, as we desire, to TEN TEARS IK OHBOOV. 351 friendly lin thr know |iHs pr«- 2sire, to continue to live in the exercise and interchai]ge of good offi- ces with the framers of that useful institution. The advantages of peace and harmony, of the support and maintenance of established rights, must be as evcident lo every member of the community as the evils flowing from a stato of lawless misrule. With these considerations before us, we feel confident that eveiy person, who desires the well-being of the country, who wishes to see it prosperous and flourishing, will unite in put- ting down every course which may have a tendency to dis- turb the public peace, and in promoting by every means in their power the cause of justice, obedience to the laws, and mutual accommodation. With a fervent prayer to the Divine bestower of all good for the happiness and prosperity of every individual in the country, we have the honor to be, gentlemen, your obedi ent servants, JOHN McLaughlin, JAMES DOUGLASS. Vancouver, March 18, 1845. Gentlekbn — I am sorry to inform you that Mr. William- son is surveying a piece of land occupied by the Hudson's Bay Company, alofii^siJe of this establishment, with a view of taking it at) a claioi ; and as he is an American ciiizen, I feel bound, as a iwatt'^r of courtcf-y, to make the same known to you, tnisting ^wt you will feel just'ficu in taking meas- ures 'o have him removod from the Hudson'," Bay Com pa ny's premises, in order that the unanimity now liappily sub- sisting between the American citizens and British subjects residing in this country may not be disturbed or interrupted. I beg to enclose you a copy of an address o the citizens of ""TBI 362 TEN TEARS IK OREGON. Oregon, which will explain to you our situation, and the course we are bound to pursue in the event of your declin- ing to interfere. I am, gentlemen, your obedient humble servant, J. McLaughlin. William Bailey, OsDORNE Russell, P. O. Stew at, Esqs. Executive committee of Oregon. Oregon City, March 21, 1845. Sir — We beg to acknowledge the receipt of your letters — one dated 11th of March, and the other 12th of March — accompanied with an address to the citizens of Oregon. We regret to hear that unwarranted liberties have been taken by an American citizen upon the Hudson's Bay Com- pany's premises, and it affords us great pleasure to learn that the offender, after due reflection, desisted from the insolent and rash measure. As American citizens, we beg leave to offer you and your much esteemed colleague, our most grateful thanks for the kind and candid manner in which you have treated this mat- ter, as we are aware that an infringement on the rights of the Hudson's Bay Company in this country, by an Ameri- can citizen, is a breach of the laws of the United States, by setting at naught her most solemn treaties with Great Britain. As representatives of the citizens of Oregon, we beg your acceptance of sincere acknowledgements of the obligations we are under to yourself and your honorable associate for the high regard you have manifested for the authorities of oar provisional government, and the special anxiety you have mm )cg your ligations Biate for trities of rou have TXlfr TKAKS IK OnKOOK. over shown for our peace and prosperity ; and we assure you that we consider ourselves in duty bound to use every exer- tion in our power to put down every cause of disturbance, an well as to promote the amicable intercourse and kind feelings hitherto existing between ourselves and the gentlemen of the Hudson's Bay Company, until the United States shall ex- tend their jurisdiction over us, and our authority ceases to exist. Wc have the honor to be sir, your most obedient servants, OSBOBNE RUSSELL, P. G. STEWART. JoitM McLAiTOUbiN, Esq. DeMHiber 8, 18 15. itemorittl , entitled, TKK TSARS IH OREOOIT, SftI lor the forced author- ned by of your United idvanta- rce, nor or want r us can nd pow- tmmerce, istablish- or a mar- ly all our le market nevances embrace numerous )f territo- , with au- ladians, I to the in- |l through Le twenty- " A bill to authorize the adoption of measures for the oo- eupation and settlement of the territory of Oregon, for ex- tending certain portions of the laws of the United States over the same, and for other purposes." That navy yards and marine depots may be established on the river Columbia and upon Pugett's sound, and a naval force, adequate to our protection, be kept permanent^ bn the adjacent seas. That a public mail be established to arrive and depart monthly from Oregon city and Independence, and such other local mail routes be established as are essential to< Um| Willamette country and other settlements. We pray for the establishment of such commercial regu- lations as may enable us to trade in our own territory, at least on an equality with now resident foreigners. We pray that adequate military protection be given ixt emigrants coming to us, either by the establishment of posts upon the route, or by military escort. And we pray that, in the event you deem it inexpedient as a measure, or contrary to the spirit of existing. treaties, to establish a territorial government in Oregon, you extend ta us adequate military and naval protection, so as to place us at least on a par with other occupants of this country. For the granting of which your memorialists will ever pray. OSBORNE RUSSELL, Executive. PETER G. STEWART, Executive. J. W. NESMITT, Judge of circuit comt. M. M. McCARVER, Speaker. Members of the Legislative Committee. — Jesse AppTegate, Medard 6. Foisy, W. H. Gray, J. M. Garrison, Abijah Hen- •58 TKN YKAR8XM ORBOOIT. drick, David Hill, H. A. O. Lee, Burton Lee, John McCIuie, Bobei't Newell, J. W. Smith,'Hiram Straight. Done at Oregon city, June 28, 1845. Attest, J. E. LONG, Clerk. , U. S. Senate, May 21, 1846. Amended Organic Laws of the Territory of Oregon, as adopt- ed by the people of that Territory on the last Saturday of July, 1846, toith proposed amendments. The legislative committee recommended that the foUovr- Ing laws be adopted : Articlr 1. Preamble. We the people of Oregon Territory, for pur- poses of mutual protection, and to secure peace and prosper- ity among ourselves, agree to adopt the following laws and regulations until such times as the United States of America extend their jurisdiction over us. » Be it therefore enacted by the free citizens of Oregon Teriitory, That the said territory, for the purposes of tem- porary government, be divided into not less than three nor more than five distiicts, subject to be extended to a greater number when an increase of population shall require. For the purpose of fixing the principles of civil and reli- gious liberty as the basis of all laws and constitutions of government that may hereafter be adopted, Be it enacted, That the following articles be considered articles of compact among the free citizens of this territory ; Section 1. No person demeaning himself in a peaceable or orderly manner shall ever be molested upon account of hb mode of worship or religious sentiments. Sec. 2. The inhabitants of said territory shall always be jClure, lleik. ,1846. s adopt' irday of foUo—- , for pur- prosper- laws and America ^ Oregon of tem- threc nor a greater re. and reli- utions of enacted, compact leaccablo 3count of ilways be TKN TBARS IN ORBOOK. 350 entitled to tlic benefits of the writ of habeas corpus and trial by jury; of a proportionate representation of the people in the legishiturc, and of judicial proceedings according to the course of common law : all persons shall be bailable, unless for capital offences, where the proof shall be evident, or the presumption great : nil fines shall be moderate, and no cruel or unusual punishments inflicted : no man shall he deprived of his liberty but by the judgement of his peers, or the law of the land ; and, should the public exigencies make it ne- cessary for the common preservation to take any person's property, or to demand his particular services, full compen- sation shall be made for the same ; and, in the just preser- vation of rights and property, it is imderstood and declared that no law ought ever to be made or have force in said ter- ritory that shall, in any manner whatever, interfere with or affect private contracts or engagements, "bona fide" and without fraud previously formed. Sec. 3. Religion, morality, and knowledge being neces- sary to good government and the happiness of mankind, schools and the means of education shall forever be encour- aged. The utmost good faith shall always be observed to- wards the Indians ; their lands and property shall nevor be taken from them without their consent, and in their property, rights, and liberty they shall never be invaded or disturbed, unless in just and lawful wars, authorized by the represen- tatives of the people ; but laws, founded in justice and hu- manity, shall, from time, be made for preventing injustice being done to them, and for preserving peace and friendship with them. Sec. 4. There shall be neither slavery nor involun- tary ser\ilude in said territory, otherwise than for the pun- m «60 TKN TEAIIS IV ORBOOK. ishment of oriices whereof the party shnll have been dulj convicted. Sec. 5. No person shall be deprived of the right of bear- ing arms in his own defence ; no unreasonable searches or seizures shall be granted ; the freedom of the press shall not be restrained ; no person shall be twice tried for the same offence ; nor the people be deprived of the right of peaccar bly assembling and discussing any matter they may thinly proper ; nor shall the right of petition ever be denied. Sec. 6. The powers of the government shall be divided into three distinct departments : the legislative, executive, and judicial ; and no person or persons belonging to one of these departments shall exercise any of the powers properlf belonging to ci er of the others, except in cases herein di- rected or peimitted. Article. II. Section 1. The legislative power shall be vested in a house of representatives, which shall consii>t of not less than thirteen, nor more than sixty-one members, whose numbert shall not be increased more than five at any one session, to be elected by the qualified doctors at the annual election, giving to each district a representation in the ratio of its pop ttlation — excluding Indians ; and the said members shall re- side in the district for which they shall be chosen ; and in ease of vacancy by death, resignation, or otherwise, the ex- ecutive shall issue his writ to the district where such vacan- cy has occurred, and cause a new election to be held, giving sufficient notice at least ten days previously of the time and place of holding said election. Sec. 2. The house of representatives, when assembled, TIN YBARS IN ORIOOW. 391 A dull >f bear- ;hcs or iiall not le samo peaccftr ly thia% d. divided cecutive, 9 one of properli lerein di- sted in a ess thaa number* eseion, to election, its pop shall re- and in ., the ex- ih vacan- , giving |time and scmbled, ■hall choose a speaker and its officers ; be judges of the quali6cations and election of its members, and sit, upon ito own adjournment, from day to day. Two-thirds of the bouse shall constitute a quorum tn transact business ; but a tmtiller number may adjourn from day to day, and may ba authorized by law to compel the attendance of its ubsenl members. Sue. 3. The house may deterroiie the rules of its prft- oecdings, punish its members for disorderly behavior, undy with the concurrence of two- thirds expel a member, but not a second time for the same offence ; and shall have all powv ers necessary for a legi::3lature of a temporary government^ not in contravention with the restrictions imposed in this ov> ganic law. Skc. 4. The house of representatives shall from timo t* time fix the salaries of the different officers appointed ov elected under this compact, provided the pay of no officer shall be altered during the term of his service ; nor shall the pay of the house be increased by any law taking effect dur- ifig the session at which such alt to lay out the territory into suitablie districts, and apportion i'.'W^^lpSsw S62 TCN TKARS IN ORBOON. the representation in their own botly ; they shnll have power to pass laws for raisinjr a revenue, either by the levying and collecting of taxes, or the imposing license on merchandise, ferries or other objects ; to open roads and canals, cither by the levying a road tax or the chartering of companies ; to regulate the intercourse of the people with the Indian tribes; to establish post offices and post roads ; to declare war, sup- press insurrection, or repel invasion ; to provide for the or- ganizing, arming, and disciplining thcmiliiia, and for calling forth the militia to execute the laws of Oregon ; to pass laws to regulate the introduction, manufacture, or sale of ardent spirits ; to regulate the currency and internal policy of the country ; to create inferior tribunals and inferior officers, ne- cessary, and not provided for by those articles of compact ; and, generally, to pass such laws to promote the general welfare of the people of Oregon, not contrary to the spiiit of this instrument ; and all powers not hereby expressly del- egated to remain with the people. The house of representatives shall convene annually on the first Tuesday in December, at such place as may be provided by law, and shall, upon their first meeting , Trcr the adoption of this instrument of compact, proceed to elect and define the duties of a secretary, recorder, treasurer, auditor, mar- shal, or other officers necessary to carry into effect the pro- visions of this compact. Sec. 7, The executive power shall be vested in one per- son, elected by the qusilified voters at the annual election, who shall have power to fill vacancies, to remit fines and for- feitures, to grsint parJons and reprieves for ofixmces against the laws of the territory, to call out the military force of the territory, to repel invasion or suppress insurrection, to take care that the laws are faithfully executed, and to recommend TIMTBARS IK OBBOOH. 363 on the irovided Id op lion define r, mar- lie pro- be per- fection, Ud for- lagainst of the Ito take Immend auch hiWA as he may consider necessary to the representa- tives of the people for their action. Every bill which shall have been passed by the house of representatives shall, be- fore it becomes a law, be presented to the governor for his approbation. If ho approve, he shall sign it; if not, he shall return it, with his objections, to the house, and the bouse shall cause the objections to be entered at large on its journals, and shall proceed to reconsider the bill ; if, after such consideration, a majority of two thirds of the house yhall agree to pass the same, it shall become a law ; in such oases the vote shall be taken by ayes and noes, and be en- tcred upon the journals. If any bill shall not be returned by the governor to the house of representatives within three days — Sundays excepted — after it shall have been presented to hi o, the sumo shall become a law in like manner as if the governor had signed it, unless the house of representatives, by its adjournment, shall prevent its letum, in which case it shall not become a law. The governor shall continue in office two years, and until his successor is duly elected and qualified ; and in case of the office becoming va- cant by death, resignation or otherwise, the secretary shall exercise !hc duties of the office until the vacancy shall be filled by election. The governor shall receive the sum of per annum, as full compensation for his services, which sum may be incieased or diminished at any time, by law : Provi- ded, the salary of no governor shall be altered during his term of service. The governor shall have power to convene the legislature on extraordinary occasions. Skc. 8. The judicial power shall be vested in a supreme nv ^ammsmmmfi^m tmm Jro4 m TBAR8 IN OHBOfyN. f- court, and such inferior courts of law, equity, and arbitra- tion, as may by law from time to time be eBtablished. The supreme court shall consist of one judge, who shall be elected by the house of rep .esen natives, and hold his of- fice for four years, and until his successor is duly elected and qualified. The supreme court, except in cases otherwise directed by this compact, shall have appellate jurisdiction only, which shall be co-extensive with this territory, and shall hold two sessions annually, beginning on the first Mordays in June and September, and at such places as by law cirected. The supreme court shall have a general siperintending control over all inferior courts of law. It shall hi!ve power to issue writs of habeas corpus, mandamus, quo warranto, cer- tiorari, and other original and remedial writs, and hear and be* 1 the jrson m of^ or on shall i-resi- And ibsent im by Itiimof acres, 1 situa- (wcd to person hall be Lher ca- hall be jundred bjcct to partncr- rticular \rnvidcd, Upartite 1p- ill here- in. fion held Irs to act TKN TEARS IN ORBGON. 367 under this organic law, and their ofliciul acts, so far as they are in accordance with this compact, are hereby declared valid and legal. Sec. 7. Amendments to this instrument may be propo- sed by the house of rcprcsentitives, two-thirds of the mem- bers concurring thciin ; which amendments shall be made public in all parts of Oregon, and be read at the polL at the rext succeeding general election ; and a concurrence of two- thirds of all the members at said election, may pass said amendments, and they shall become a part of this compact. Oregon City, July 5, 1845. A true copy of the original. M. M. McCARVER. Attest : J. E. Long, Secretary, Adopted by the people at a general election held in Ore- gon, the last Saturday in July, A. D. 1845. Attest : J. E. LONG, Secretary. Done by the House of Rq)r(sentativcs of Oregon Territory, this 14 th day of August, 1845. Whereas the aJi)pii(»u by the people of this teirilory of the amended organic laws oi Oregon wusau act of necessity rather than of chok-c, and was intended to give to ihe peo- ple the protection which, of right, should bo extended to them by their governnii'nt, and not as an act in defiance or disregard of the uuthoiity or laws of the United States. Therefore, Resolved, 1st. Thai, in the opinion of this house, the congress of the United States, in establishing a territorial 998 TIN TSARS IN OREO Off government in Oregon, should legalize the acts of the peo- ple of this territory, so far as they are in accordance with the constitution of the United States. 2d. That Dr. EHjah White, sub-Indian ag€nt of this Ter- ritory, be requested to present a copy of the amended or- ganic laws of Oregon to the congress of the United States. 3d. That these resolutions bo endorsed upon said copy, with the vote of the house adopting the same. On the adoption of the above resolution, the vote of the houtie was unanimous. M.M. McCARVER, Speaker. Attest : J. E. LoNO, Clerk. I am sure ! shall bc« excused in introducing some addi- tional matter relating to the Indians, and some of their stri- king peculiarities ; and before giving Dr. White's views of the causes of the late disturbances in Oregon leading to the late hor rible massacre and present war, I beg leave to pre- sent a few passages from Mr. Farnham's travels west of the Rocky Mountains, and also from Mr. Lee and Frost's work on Oregon. Mr F. gives the following interesting accoimt of a re- oaaikablu personage with whom he met in the wilds of the west: *' One of these trappers was from New Hampshire ; he had been educated at Dartmouth college, and was, altogeth- er, one of the most remarkable men I ever knew. A splen- did gentlencan, a finished scholar, a critic en English ond Roman liieriturc, a poli'ician, a trapper, an Indi- His utature was something more than six feet; his she dors and ohest were broad, and his arms and lower limbs well formed work lire; be liogeth- splen- His rs and l\ formed TEN TKARS IN OREGOK. 369 nnd very muscular. His forehead was high and expansive ; Causality, Comparison, Eventuality; and all the perceptive organs, to uce a phrenological description, remarkably large ; Locality was, however, larger than any other organ in the frontal region ; Benevolence, Wonder, Ideality, Secretive- ness, Destructi.enessand Adhesiveness, Combativeness, Self- Esteem and Hope were very high. The remaining organs were low. His head was clothed with hair as black as jet, two and a half feet in length, smoothly combed and hanging down his back. He was dressed in a deer skin frock, leg- gins and moccasins ; not a shred of cloth about his person. On my first interview with him, he addressed me with the stiff, cold formality of one conscious of his own importance ; and, in a manner that he thought unobserved, scrutinized the movement of every muscle of my face and every word that I uttered. And when any thing was said of political events in the states or Europe, he gave silent and intense attention. I left him without any very good im[)ressions of his charac- ter ; for I had induced him to open his compressed mouth but once, and then to make the no very agreeable enquiries — ' When do you stai t ? ' and ' What route do you take V At my second interview, he was more familiar. Having as- certained that he was proud of his learning, I app-oached him through that medium. He seemed pleased at this com- pUment to his superiority over those around him, and at once became easy and talkative. His ' Alma Mater' was described and redescribed ; all the fields and walks and riv- ulets, the beautiful Connecticut, the evergreen primitive ridges lying along its banks, which, he said, ' had smiled for a thousand ages on the m:irch of decay ;' were succei8«ive themes ot" his gigantic imagination. His descriptions wvr§ minute and exquisite. He saw in every thing all that scl- 24 370 TBN TEARS IN OAEQOW. ence sees, together -with all that his capacious intellect, in- structed and imbued with the wild fancyings and legends of his race, could see. I enquired the reason of his leaving civilized life for a precarious livelihood in the wilderncs.';. ' For reasons found in the nature of my race,* he replied. ' The Indian's eye cannot be satisfied with a description of things, how beautiful soever may be the style, or the har- monies of verse in which it is conveyed. For neither the periods of burning eloquence, nor the mighty and beautiful creations of the imagination, can unbosom the mighty reali- ties as they live in their own native magnificence on the eter- nal mountains, and in the secret, untrodden vale. As soon as you thrust the plowshare under the earth, it teems- with worms and useless weeds. It increases popula- tion to an unnatural extent — creates the necessity of penal enactments — builds the jail — erects the gallows — spreads over tho, human face a mask of deception and selfishness — and substitutes villany, love of wealth, and power, and the slaugter of millions for the gratification of some royal cut- throat, in the place of the single-minded honesty, the hospi- tality, the honor and purity of the natural state. Hence, wherever agriculture appears, the increase of moral and physical wretchedness induces the thousands of necessities, as they are termed, for abridging human liberty ; for fetter- ing down the mind to the principles of right, derived, not from nature, but from a restrained and forced condition of existence. And hence my race, with mental and physical habits as free as the waters that flow from the hills, become restiff under the rules of civilized life ; dwindle to their graves under the control of laws, and customs, and forms, which have grown out of the endless vices, and the facti- tious virtues of another race. Red men often acquire and TBN YEARS IN OREGON. 371 ipreads mess — md the al cut- hospi- Hencc, ral and essiticF. fetter- ed, not lition of jhysical become [to their forms, le fact! aire and love the sciences. But with the nature which the Great Spirit has given them, what are all their truths to them '' Would an Indian ever measure the height of a mountain that be could climh ? No, never. The legends of his tribe teV. him nothing about quadrants, and base lines and angles^ Their old braves, however, have for ages watched from the clifts the green life in the spring, and the yellow death in the autumn, of their holy forests. Why should he ever cal- culate an eclipse ? He always knew such things to be the doings of the Great Spirit. Science, it is true, can tell the times and seasons of their coming ; but the Indian, when they do occur, looks through nature, without the aid of sci- ence, up to its cause. Of what use is a lunar to him ? His swift, canoe has the green embowered shores, and well-known headlands, to guide its course. In fine, what are the arts of peace, of war, of agriculture, or any thing civilized, to hin? His nature and its elements, like the pine w^hich shadows its wigwam, are too mighty, too grand, of too strong a fibre, to form a stock on Avhich to engraft the rose or the violet of polished life. No. I must range the hills ; I must always be able to out-travel my horse ; I must always be able to strip my own wardrobe from the backs of the deer and buffalo ; and to feed upon their rich loins ; I must al- ways be able to punish my enemy with my own hand, or I am no longer an Indian. And if I am any thing else, I am a mere imitation, an ape." The enthusiasm with which these sentiments were uttered, impressed me with an awe I had never previously felt for the unborrowed dignity and inde-^ pendence of the genuine, original character of the Ameri- can Indians. Enfeebled, and reduced to a state of depen- dence by disease and the crowding hosts of civilized men, we find among them still, too much of their own, to adopt _^... I'. .^i^t..^iittl:^ /Hi \r 372 rair TSAna in oreook. the character of another race ; too much bravery to feel like a conquered people ; and a preference of annihilation to the abandonment of that course of life consecrated bj a thou- sand generations of venerated ancestors. This Indian has been trapping among the Rocky Moun- tains for Keventein years. During that time, he has been often employed as an express to carry news from one tra- dbg post to another, and from the mountains to Missouri. Id these journeys he has been remarkable for the directness of his courses, and the exceedingly short spaces of time re- quired to accomplish them. Mountains that neither Indian nor white man dared attempt to scale, if opposing his right- line track, he has crossed. Angry streams, heavy and cold from the snows, and plunging and roaring among the gird- ing caverns of the hills, he hits swum ; he has met the tem- pest as it groaned over the plains, and hung upon the trem- bling towers of the everlasting hills ; and without a horse, or even a dog, traversed often the terrible and boundless wastes of mountains, and plains ; and desert valleys, through whixsh I am now travelling ; and the ruder the blast, the lar- ger the bolts, and the louder the peals of the dreadful tem- pest, when the earth and the sky seemed joined by a moving cataract of flood and flame diiven by the wind, the more was it like himself, a free, unmarred manifestation of the sublime energies of nature. He says that he never intends again to visit the states, or any other part of the earth ' which has been torn and spoiled by the slaves of agriculture.' ' I shall live,' says he, ' and die in the wilderness.' The music of the rushing waters should be his requiem, and the great wil- derness his tomb. Another of these peculiar men was an Iroquois from Can- ada; a stout, old man, with a flat nose, broad face, small TBN TEARS IK ORBOON. 373 Ugh e lur- tem- oving e was bllme lin to ii lias shall sic of t wil- Can- I small twinkling black eyes, a swarthy, dirty complexion, n mouth that laughed from ear to ear, and always relating some won- derful tale of a trapper's life. He was particularly fond of describing his escapes from the Sioux, and Blackfcct, while in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company. On one oc- casion he had separated from his fellow-trappcrs and trav- elled far up the Missouri into a particularly beautiful valley. It was the very spot he had sought in all his wanderings, for a retreat for him and his squaw to live in till they should die. It appeared to him like the gateway to the isles of the blest. The lower mountains were covered with tall pines ; and above and around, except in the east, where the morning 8un sent in his rays, the bright glittering ridges rose high against the sky, decked in the garniture of perpetual frosts. Along the valley lay a clear, pure lake, in the centre of which played a number of fountains, that threw their wa- ters many feet above its surface, and sending tiny waves rippling away to the pebbly shores, made the mountains and groves that were reflected from its rich bosom seem to leap and clap their hands for joy, at the sacred quiet that reigned among them. The old Indian pitched his skin tent on the shore, in a little copse of hemlock, and set his traps. Having done this, he explored carefully every part of the neigliboring moun- tains for ingress and egress, ' signs.' etc. His object in this was to ascertain if the valley were frequented by human be- ings ; and if there were places of escape, if it should be en- tered by hostile persons through the pass that led himself to it. He found no other pass, except one for the waters of the lake through a deep chasm of the mountain ; and this was such that no one could descend it alive to the lower val- leys. For as he waded and swam by turns down its still ■Xi '. . '■■ jy T BT4 TKN TEAKS IN OUKOOK. waters, he soon found himself drawn by an increasing ear- rent, which sufficiently indicated to him the cause of the deep roar that resounded from the caverns beyond. He accord- ingly made the shore, and climbed along among the project- ing rocks till he overlooked an abyss of fallen rocks, into which the stream poured and foamed an^ was lost in the mist. He returned to his camp satisfied. He had found an undis- covered valley, stored with beaver and trout, and grasses for his horses, where he could trap and fish and dream awhile in safety. And every morning, for three delightful weeks, did he draw the beaver from the deep pools into which they had plunged when the quick trap had seized them ; and stringing them two and two together over his pack-horse, bore them to his camp ; and with his long side-knife stripped of the skins of fur ; pinned them to the ground to dry, and in his camp kettle cooked the much-prized tails for his mid-day repast. ' Was it not a fine hunt that ?' said he, ' beaver a» thick as mosquitoes, trout as plenty as water.' ' But the un- godly Blackfeet I' The sun had thrown a few bright rays upon the rim of the eastern firmament, when the Blackfeet war-whoop rang around his tent — a direful * whoop-ah- hooh,' ending with a yell, piercing harsh and shrill, through the clenched teeth. He had but one means of escape — the lake. Into it he plunged beneath a shower of poisoned ar- rows — plunged deeply — and swam under while he could en- dure the absence of air ; he rose ; he was in the midst of his foes swimming and shouting around him ; down again ; up to breathe ; and on he swam with long and powerful sweeps. The pursuit was long ; but at last our man entered the chasm he had explored, plunged along the cascade as near as he dared, clung to a shrub that grew from the crev- ice of the rock, and lay under water for the approach of his TEN YEARS IN OllSGON. 875 ays 'eet ali- )Ugll le as Icrev- If his pursuers. On they came, they passed, they shrieked, and plunged for ever into the abyss of mist." " The trials of a journey to the western wilderness can never be detailed in words. To be understood, they must be endured. Their effects upon the physical and mental system are equally prostrating. The desolation of one kind and another which meets the eye every where ; the sense of vastness associated with dearth and barrenness, and of sub- limity connected with eternal, killing frosts ; and of loneli- ness coupled with a thousand natural causes of one's de- struction ; perpetual journeyings over endless declivities — among tempests — through freezing torrents ; one half the time on foot, with nothing but moccasins to protect the feet from the flinty gravel and the thorns of the prickly pear along the unbeaten way ; and the starvings and thirstings wilt the muscles, send preturnatural activity into the nervous system, and through the whole animal and mental economy a feebleness and irritability altogether indescribable. But at Fort David Crockett there were rest, and food, and safety; and old Father Time, as he mowed away the passing mo- ments and gathered them into the great garner of the Past, cast upon the Future a few blossoms of hope, and ^weetened the hours now and then with a bit of information about this portion of his ancient dominion. I heard from various per- sons, more or less acquainted with the Colorado of the West, a confirmation of the account of that river given in the journals of previous days ; and also that there resides at the lower eiiid of its great kenyon a band of the Club Indi- ans — very many of whom are seven feet in height, and well proportioned ; that these Indians raise large quantities of black beans upon the sandy intervals on the stream ; that v.^^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I l£i|28 |Z5 ■JO *^^ MHH Hi lU u 12.0 L25 IIIU 11.6 — 6" Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIK STKIST WIMTn,N.Y. MSN (716)172-4903 876 TEN TEARS IN ORKOOX. the oval-loaf prickly-pcar grows there from fifteen to twenty feet in height ; that these Indians make molasses from its fruit ; that their principal weapon of warfare is the club, which they wield with amazing dexterity and force ; that they inhabit a wide extent of country north-west and south- east of the lower part of this river ; that they have never been subdued by the Spaniards, and are inimical to all white people. Subsequent inquiry in California satisfied me that this river is navigable only thirty or forty miles frbrn its mouth, and that the Indians who live upon its barren banks near the Gulf are such as I have descrbed. The Snakes, or Shoshonies, are a wandering tribe of Indi- ans who inhabit that part of the Rocky Mountains which lies on the Grand and Green river branches of the Colorado of the West, the valley of Great Bear river, the habitable shores of the Great Salt Lake, a considerable portion of country on Snake liver above and below Fort Hall, and a tract extending two or three hundred miles to the west of that post. Those who reside in the place last named, are said to subsist principally on roots ; they however kill a few deer, and clothe themselves on their skins. The band li\ang on Snake river subsist on the fish of the stream, buffalo, deer, and other game. Those residing on the branches of the Colorado live on roots, buffalo, elk, deer, the mountain sheep, and antelope. The Snakes own many horses. These, with their thousands of dogs, constitute all the domestic animals among them. They have Qonical skin-lodges, a few camp- kettles, butcher-knives and guns. Many of them, however, still use the bow and arrow. In dress, they f^Ow the uni- versal Indian costume — moccasins, leggings, and the hunt- ing-shirt. Nothing but the hair covers the head ; and this, indeed, would seem sufficient, if certain statements made in ^ TKV TKaRS IK OREQOir. 377 relation to it wero true ; as that it frequently grows four and live feet in lenr* th, and in one case eleven feet. In these instances, it is braided and wound around the head in the form of a Turkish turban. If only two or three feet in length, it is braided on the female head in two queues, which hang down the back : on the male it is only combed behind the ears, and lays dishevelled around the shoulders. The female dress differs from that of the male in no other respect than this : the shirt or chemise of the former extends down to the feet. Beaver, otter, bear and buffHlo skins, and horses are exchanged by them with the Arrapahoes, and the American and British traders, for some fow articles of wear- ing apparel ; such as woolen blankets and hats. But as their stock of skins is always very limited, they find it necessary to husband it with much care to obtain therewith a supply of tobacco, arms, and ammunition. From the first acquaintance of the whites with them, these people have been remarkable for their aversion to war, and those cruelties so generally practiced by their race. If permitted to live in peace among their mountains, and al- lowed to hunt the buffalo — that wandering patrimony of all the tribes — where necessity requires, they make war upon none, and turn none away hungry from their humble abodes. But these peaceable dispositions in the wilderness, where men are left to the protection of their impulses and physical energies, have yielded them little protection. The Black- feet, Crows, Sioux, and Eutaws have alternately fought them for the better right to the Old Park, and portions of their territory/with varied success; and, at the present time, do those tribes yearly send predatory parties into their bor- ders to rob them of their horses. But as the passes through which they enter the Snake country are becoming more and 378 TEN TEARS IK OREOOK. more destitute of game on which to subsist, their visits arc less frequent, and their number less formidable. So that, for several years, they have been in a great measure relieved from these annovances. From the time they met Lewis and Clark on the head- waters of the Missouri to the present day, the Snakes have opened their lodges to whites, with the most friendly feel- ings. And many are the citizens of the States, and the sub- jects of Britain, who have sought their villages, and by their hospitality been saved from death among those awful soli- tudes. A guest among them is a sacred deposite of the Great Splint. His property, when once arrived within their camp, is under the protection of then* honor and religious pimciple. And should want, cupidity, or any other motive, tempt any individual to disregard these laws of hospitality, the property which may have been stolen, or its equivalent, is returned, and the ofifender punished. The Snakes are a very intelligent race. This appears in the comforts of their homes, their well-constructed lodges, the elegance and useful form of their wardrobe, then* horse-gear, etc. But more es- pecially does it exhibit itself in their views of sensual ex- cesses and other immoralities. These are inhibited by im- memorial usages of the tribe. Nor does their code of customs operate upon those wrong doings only which originate among a savage people. Whatever indecency is offered them by their intercourse with the whites, they avoid. Civilized vice is quite as offensive as that which grows up in their own untrained natures. The non-use of intoxicating liquor is an cxar iple of this kind. They abjiiied it from the commencement of its introduction among them. And they give the best of reasons for this custom : — ' It unmans us for the hunt, and for defending ourselves against our enemies : TIN YSAR8 IM ORBGOK. 379 heir eful es- ex- im- of lich is t^oid. in jiting the they for lest i it causes unnatural dissensions among ourselves : it makes the Chief less than his Indian ; and hy its use, imbecility and ruin would come upon the Shoshonie nation.' What- ever difference of opinion may exist among civilized men on this matter, these Indians certainly reason well for them- selves, and, I am inclined to think, for all others. A voice from the depths of the mountains — from the lips of a sav- age — send to our ears the startling rebuke — 'Make not, vend not, give not to us the strong water. It prostrates your superior knowledge — ^your enlarged capacities for hap- piness — ^your cultivated understandings. It breaks your strong la^s ; it rots down your strong houses ; it buries you in the filthiest ditch of sin. Send it not to us ; we would rather die by the arrows of the Blackfeet.* The Crows are a wandering tribe that is usually found in the upper plains around the head waters of the north fork of Great Platte, Snake, and Yellowstone rivers. Their num- ber is estimated to be about five thousand. They are repre- sented as the most airant rascals among the mountains. The traders say of them that ' they have never been known to keep a promise or do an honorable act.* No white man or Indian trusts them. Murder and robbery are their prin- cipal employments. Much of their country is well watered, timbered, and capable of yielding an abundant reward to the husbandman. The Blackfeet Indians reside on the Marias and other branches of the Missouri above the Great Falls. In 1828 they numbered shoe* two thousand five hundred lodges or families. During that year, they stole a blanket from the American Fur Company's steamboat on the Yellowstone, which had belonged to a man who had died of the small- pox on the passage up the Missouri. The infected article -# S80 TEN TEARS IN OREGON. being carried to their encampment on the 'left hand fork of the Missouri/ spread the dreadful infection among the whole tribe. They were amazed at the appearance of the disease. The red blotch, the bile, congestion of the lungs, liver, and brain, were all new to their medicin-men ; and the rotten corpse falling in pieces while they buried it, struck horror into every heart. In their phrenzy and ignorance they in- creased the niunber of their sweat ovens upon the banks of the stream, and whether the burning fever or want of ner- vous action prevailed ; whether frantic with pain, or totter- ing in death, they were placed in them, sweated profusely and plunged into the snowy waters of the river. The mor- tality which followed this treatment was a parallel to the plague in London. They endeavored for a time to bury the dead, but these were soon more numerous than the living. The evil-minded medicin-men of all ages had come in a body from the world of spirits, had entered into them, and were working the annihilation of the Blackfoot race. The Oreat Spirit also had placed the floods of his displeasure between himself and them ; He had cast a mist over the eyes of their conjurors, that they might not know the remedial incantation. Their hunts were ended ; their bows were broken ; the fire in the Great Pipe was extinguished forever ; their graves called for them ; and the call was now answered by a thou- sand dying groans. Mad with superstition and fear, brother forsook sister ; father his son ; and mother her sucking child ; and fled to the elevated vales among the western heights, where the influences of the cliiuate, operating upon the al- ready well-spent energies of the disease, restored the remain- der of the tribe again to health. Of the two thousand five hundred families existing at the time the pestilence com- menced, one or more members of eight hundred only sur- TIN TEAB8 Iff ORiaOK. 381 vived its ravages. And even to this hour do the bones of seven thousand or eight thousand Bkickfeet lie unburied among the decaying lodges of their deserted village, on the banks of the Yellowstone. But this infliction has in no wise humanized their blood-thirsty nature. As ever before, they wage exterminating war upon the traders and trappers, and ihe Oregon Indians. The Arrapahoes reside south of the Snakes. They wan- der in the winter season over the country about the head of the Great Kenyon of the Colorado of the west, and to a con- sider<*ble distance down that river ; and in summer hunt the butl ilo in the New Park, or ' Bull Pen,' in the ' Old Park,* on Grand river, and in ' Bayou Salade, on the south fork of the Platte. Their number is not well ascertained. Some es- timate it at three thousand, others more, and others still less. They are said to be a brave — fearless, thrifty, ingenious, and hospitable people. They own large numbers of horses, mules, dogs, and sheep. The dogs they fatten and eat. Hence the name Arrapahoes — dog eaters. They manufac- ture the wool of their sheep into blankets of a very supe- rior quality. I saw many of them ; possessed one ; and be- lieve them to be made with something in the form of a dar- ning-needle. They appeared to be wrought, in the first place, like a fishing-net ; and on this, as a foundation, darned so densely that the rain will not penetrate them. They are usually striped or checked with yellow and red. There is in this tribe a very curious law of naturalization ; it is based upon property. Any one, whether red or white, may avail himself of it. One horse, which can run with sufficient speed to overtake a buffalo cow, and another horse or mule, capable of bearing a pack of two hundred pounds, must be possessed by the applicant. 882 TKN TEARS IN ORSOOV» These being delivered to the principal chief of the tribe, and his intentions being made known, he is declared a citi- zen of the Arrapahoe tribe, and entitled to a wife and other high privileges thereunto appertaining, ''^hus recognized, he enters upon a life of savage independence. His wife takc;. care of his horses, manufactures his saddles and bri- dles, and leash ropes and whips, his moccasins, leggins, and hunting-shirts, from leather and other materials prepared by her own hands ; beats with a wooden adze his buffalo robes, till they are soft and pleasant for his couch ; tans hides for his tent covering, and drags from the distant hills the clean white-pine poles to support it ; cooks his daily food and pla- ces it before him. And should sickness overtake him, and death rap at the door of his lodge, his squaw watches kindly the last yearnings of the departmg spirit. His sole duty, as her lord in life, and as a citizen of the Arrapahoe tribe, is to ride the horse which she saddles and brings to his tent, kill the game which she dresses and cures ; sit and slumber on the couch which she spreads ; and fight the enemies of the tribe. Their language is said to be essentially the same as that spoken by the Snakes and Cumanches. This, and other tribes in the mountains, and in the upper plains, have a custom, the same in its objects as was the cer- emony of the * toga virilis' among the Ilomans. When ri- pened into manhood, every young man of the tribes is ex- pected to do some act of bravery that will give promise of his disposition and ability to defend the rights of his tribe and family. Nor can this expectation be disregarded. So, in the spring of the year, those of the age alluded to, asso- ciate themselves forty or fifty in a band, and devote them- selves to the duties of man's estate in the following man- ner : They take leave of their friends, and depart to some TEN TEARS IN ORBQON. 383 ^pper cer- in n- ex- se of tribe So, lasBO- Ihem- man- some 1 secret place near the woodlands; collect poles twenty or thirty feet in length, and raise them in the form of a cone ; and cover the structure so thickly with leaves and boughs as to secure the interior from the gaze of persons outside. They then hang a fresh buffalo head inside, — near the top of the lodge where the poles meet ; and below this, around the sides, suspend camp-kettles, scalps, and blankets, and the skin of a white buffalo, as offerings to the Great Spirit. After the lodge is thus arranged, they enter it with much solemnity, and commence the ceremonies which are to con- secrate themselves to war, and the destruction of their own enemies, and those of the tribe. The first act, is to seat themselves in a circle around a fire built in the centre of the lodge, and ' make raedicin ;' that is, — ^invoke the presence and aid of protecting spirits, by smoking the Great Mystic Pipe. One of their number fills it with tobacco and herbs, places upon the bowl a bright coal from the fire within the lodge, draws the smoke into his lungs, and blows it hence through his nostrils. He then seizes the stem with both hands, and leaning forward, touches the ground between his feet with the lower part of the bowl, and smokes again as before. The feet, and arms, and breast, are successively touched in a similar way ; and after each touching, the sa- cred smoke is inhaled as before. The pipe is then passed to the one on his right, who smokes as Lis fellow had done. And thus the great pipe goes round, and the smoke rises and mingles with the votive offerings to the Great Spirit that are suspended above their heads. Immediately after this smo- king, is believed to be a favored time for offering prayer to the Great Spirit, They pray for courage, and victory over their foes in the campaign they are about to undertake ; and that they may be protected from the spirits of evil-minded 384 TEN YEARS IN OREQOH. t \"^'' medicin-men. They then make an irrevocable vow, that if these medicin-men do not make them sick — do not enter into their bosoms and destroy their strength and courage, they ifvill never again see their relatives and tribe, unless they do so in garments stained with the blood of their ene* mics. Having passed through these ceremonies, they rise and dance to the music of war chants, till they are exhausted and swoon. In this state of insensibility, they imagine that the spirits of the brave dead vii'<', aw»y his owa property ;' and the trader was released. Among the several personages whom I chanced to meet at Brown's Hole, was an old Snake Indian, who saw Messrs. Lewis and Clark on the head waters of the Missouri in 1800. He is the individual of his tribe, who first saw the exp)o> rcrs' cavalcade. He appears to have been galloping from place to place in the office of sentinel to the Shoshonie camp when he suddenly found himself in the very presence of the whites. Astonishment 6xed him to the spot. Men with faces pale as ashes, had never been seen by himself or na- tion. < The head rose high and round, the top flat ; it jutted over the eyes in a thin rim ; their skin was loose and flowing, and of various colors.' His fears at length overcoming his curiosity, he fled in the direction of the Indian encampment. But being seen by the whites, they pursued and brought him to their camp ; exhibited to him the effects of their fire- arms — loaded him with presents, and let him go. Having arrived among his own people, he told them he bad seen men with faces pale as ashe», who were makers of thunder, light* ning, etc. This information astounded the whole tril)e. They had lived many years, and their ancestors liad lived many more, and there were many legends which spcike of m '■^i 388 TBK TEARS 19 ORKOOIT. many wonderful things ; but a tule like this they never had heard. A council was therefore assembled to consider the matter. The man of stangc words was summoned before it ; and he rehearsed, in substance, what he had before told to others ; but was not believed. ' All men were red, and therefore he could not have seen men as pale as ashes.' ' The Great Spirit made the thunder and the lightning ; he therefore could not have seen men of any color that could produce it. lie had seen nothing ; he had lied to his chief, and should die.' At this stage of the proceedings, the cul- prit produced some of the presents which he had received from the pale men. These being quite as new to them as pale faces were, it was determined ' that he should have the privilege of leading his judges to the place where he de- clared he had seen these strange people ; and if such were found there, he should be exculpated ; if not, these presents were to be considered as conclusive evidence against him, that he dealt with evil spirits, and that he was worthy of death by the arrows of his kinfolks.' The pale men — the thunder-makers — were found, and were witnesses of the poor fellow's story. He was released ; and has ever since been much honored and loved by his tribe, and every white man in the mountains. He is now about eighty years old, and poor. But as he is always about fort David Crockett, he is never permitted to want." The following extracts are from Lee and Frost's " Ten Years in Oregon." " But perhaps we ought not to take our departure from this place without noticing the great medical operation which was being performed here. The patients consisted of a young woman, who, upon examination, was found to have a slight fever ; and a child, m much the same state, neither TEN TEARS IK OREGON. 389 the since bite old, Lett, Ten of them beinj^ dangerously ill. But the doctors affirmed that they had been filled with skokoms ; and as proof of the truth of their statement of the cases, they produced a smal! enail shell, with a small string attached to it, and a small bunch of hair, wound up with a thread, and everal other articles of the some nature, which they professed to have taken from the stomachs of the sick, and there were blill several to be dislodged before a cathartic would take any effect ; but after these were removed, they said it would be good for Mr. Lee to give his medicine. They now made preparations for a trial of their skill in endeavoring to rout another of these evil genii or skokoms. One of the doctors out of six or eight who constituted the grand council, all of whom appeared as wise as serpents, it would seem had been the most successful in his atUicks upon the strong-hold of this combination of skokons, so it was decided he should be the leader in another general onset. Upon which he crawled near the young woman — who was stretched upon a mat, with a female attendant at her head — for the purpose of as- certaining the precise position of the enemy. Having deter- mined this point, and made known all the particulars to his faculty, he prepared himself for the tug of war. This he did by drawing his right arm through the hole in his blanket around the neck, so that his arm was now entirely disen- cumbered. He then threw his long hair up over his head, which entirely covered his face. Being now ready, he kneeled down, while all the other doctors, and men, women, and children, were arranged on either side, equipped with sticks and long poles which reached to the board roof. The kneel- ing doctor now commenced a wild and frightful song or cho- rus, in which all joined, keeping time with their sticks. Ho now commenced moving with well dissembled caution to* :.^^iU.*i^iSf. «t^, come so lawless and daring that our safety was endangered, and he had just brought several muskets and a supply of powder and balls from Vancouver for defence, intending to garrison the dwelling-house, and resist any hostility they might attempt. But now these munitions of war were not needed, for it appeared truly that the God of peace had come to the help of his servants, and the salvation of his people. Mr. Perkins was found laboring zealously night and flay, going from lodge to lodge, praying and exhorting, holding prayer meetings and preaching. His own soul had been recently blessed with a signal salvation, and walking in the 'comfort of the Holy Ghost,' he had the cause of God greatly at heart. Large numbers of the natives attended the meetings as earnest hearers, and several had begun to pray. One had already been converted. After several weeks of deep repentance, in which he met with much op- position, and devoted many hours to prayer, his soul was set at liberty in a prayer meeting ; and although his joy was not great, the change was soon manifest. He began at once to ' declare what God had done for his soul,' exhorted all he met to come to Jesus, and prayed with deep and fervent longings for the souls of his relations and others. This event awakened a deeper and wider interest among the people ; insomuch that the number of inquirers obliged Mr. Perkins to give himself entirely up to the work, as mentioned above. As to Mr. Perkins and the writer, their hearts were knit to- gether in lov'e, and long will those seasons of 'refreshing from the presence of the Lord,' which we enjoyed in those happy days, be remembered, when the language of our hearts was, 'Jesus is mine, and I am his.* Our object and aim were now one — the salvation of the souls around us; and we desired no higher employment than to serve them as nV TKARS XH ORIOOV. 99B- the heirs of eternal life. We felt that they belonged to Christ, and he could and would save them. With these views our united strength was now consecra- ted to this work, which the Lord of the vineyard had evi- dently assigned us. Our meetings were held in the liouse mentioned in the last chapter, which was thirty by twenty feet ; but on the sabbath it would not hold the people, so that sometimes it was necessary to hold a meeting in the other house at the same time. Every morning and evening they were assembled for public prayers, when a portion of the New Testament history was expounded by one of us. Such was their interest in the meetings, that the want of clothing sufficient to protect them from the cold, or of shoes to keep their feet from the frost and snow — for even many of the women had none — could not keep them away, though they had to walk a mile in going and returning. Who, let me ask, in this christian land, would do more than this in order to hear the blessed gospel ? Some time after my re- turn from the Walamet, there being about twenty souls, men aud women, in deep distress on account of their sins, and apparently near the 'kingdom,' we met ia a special prayer meeting, where few except those were present. Here was earnest, united praying, and the 'kingdom of heaven was ta- ken by violence.' More than half the number gave evidence of a happy change. Their agitated hearts felt an unknown peace, a joyful smile sat on their faces, and their lips praised the name of .Jesus. ' Mi-cah Jesus Christ e-toke-te ! — Thou, Jesus Christ, art good !' 'Cupet mi-cah mi-mah c-toke-te ! Thou alone art good !' — ' Can-nu-it e-toke-tc ! — Certainly thou art good !* 'Jesus good !' 'Jesus good !' The 'spirit of adoption' was now as manifest as had been a little before the 'spirit of bondage.' One of these, a leading -.-mamssKsi \ I 396 TKN TKARS IN ORBOOV \l man, who is sometimes called 'Boston' by his people, be- cause his head is not flattened, was some time before asked by Mr. Perkins why he rose so much earlier than formerly. 'Why,' said he, 'I cannot sleep. When I go home and lie down, I think of your teaching, and I cannot sleep. I sleep a little, and then dream I am in meeting, and my heart is all the time talking over what you say. My heart was for- merly asleep, I sec, but now it is awake.' As soon as his own proud spirit was humbled, and his troubled conscience had found peace, he sought his wife and daughter, knelt by them and told them to pray. Here may be given a specimen of their praying. thou great God on high, we now pray to thee. Our fathers knew thee not, they died in darkness, but we have beard of thee — now we see a little. Truly we are wretched ! Our hearts were blind — dark as night — al way sfoolish^-our ears closed! Our hearts bad — ^all bad — always bad — ^fuU of evil — nothing good — not one / Thou knowest ! Truly we pray now to thee. O make us good ! Put away our bad hearts. Give us thy Holy Spirit to make our hearts soft ! Our hearts are hard like a stone. Give us light. O make our hearts new — good — all good — always good ! Formerly we stole — told lies — were full of anger; now done! * Nash-ke alka ha- dow! Never again sol' Now we desire thee, O come into our hearts — now come ! Jesus Christ thy Son died for us ; Jesus, wash our hearts! * Minch't-cah-mect cow-o-lute quich-cah ! — Behold and bless !' Several others were soon after added to this number. Mrs. Perkins now devoted a part of every day in prayer meetings with the females, and the work continued to pros- per. The voice of prayer was now heard in the lodge, and wood, and glen ; the early morning and the evening were vo- nir TKAR8 IH ORKGOK. 897 cal with the suppliant's voice, and the phice where the 'church-going bell' was 'never heard,' was honored with the presence of the 'Head of the church' in many a hallowed spot where he met the contrite 'sinner returning from his ways.' There was an old man, who for some time stood aloof from the work, because others of a lower class took the lead in it ; and this made him of less consequence than he de- sired, and he opposed the little band for several Aveeks. During this time he was in a very unhappy state of mind. One day as the writer was speaking with him closely about God, whom he was bound to obey and love, he seemed deeply affected, and wept, and while we prayed together his tears flowed freely ; he did not, however, yield his heart to Ood till the first of May, several weeks after. 'How do you feel ?' said Mr. Perkins to another old man as they were go- ing out to pray in the wood. ' 0,' said he, ' luy heart b very small and sovrowful. Yesterday I prayed most all day out behind that hill,' pointing to a distant hill ; 'but my heart is still bad !' 'Jesus can change it,' said Mr. P.; 'Jesus has died for yr u !' So kneeling down they prayed. The poor old man believed in Jesus, and light, love, and joy filled bis heart — another proof of the love of God to the poor, whom he makes 'heirs to his kingdom !' These pages relate to the work at the station, chiefly among the Indians of the Caclasco village near it, and this continued to spread till but a small number were left, and also extended to two small villages a few miles below, em- bracing also a little village of the Wallawallas, living near Caclasco ; most of them were formed into classes by Mr. Perkins before the 10th of January, 1840. The writer had been laboring among the Indians on the river below, down 308 rmv TEARS m orkooit. to the Ciiscudes, of ivhicli wq will speak kcrc:ifter, and first notice this work at its introduction among the Indians at Wishham. Mr. Perkins visited this villjjge on the 10th of January, 1840. The roundhead nnan, 'Boston/ was with him, as an interpreter : this man had assisted him from the day of his conversion, and was found an efficient helper : the season was cold, and the first night they took little notice of him : encamped in a lodge of sticks and mats. There, next day, he found a large ccller, which was formerly used as a dan- cing hull, and clearing it out, used it for a meeting house. It was large enough to hold all the village — three hundred souls. A few men and boys, and about twenty-five women, came in the forenoon. Their number increased at every meeting, till on the fourth day almost the whole village were present. Such objects never met your eyes ! Naked, squal- id, deformed, blind, halt, lame : Mr. P. truly adds, 'destruc- tion and misery are in their ways,' as saith the scriptures. After he had preached two days, they seemed to awake as from a dream ; many began to pray, and the cry became general as the meeting progressed. The barren rocks be- hind Wishham echoed their earnest prayers, and many after- ward testified that they became happy while thus engaged, and many npoke feelingly of their past wretchedness and darkness, and seemed to feel a deep abhorrence of their sins, and expressed a determination to serve God hence- forth. One old man, on hearing Mr. Perkins' interpreter tell the story of Jesus, exclaimed, ' this is the tiilk I want to hear!' Then addressing Mr. Perkins, he with a poker drew some coals from the fire, saying, 'there, you have come just to .>#. TUr TBAMB IN ORF.OOX. 309 pull mo out of the 6rc !' At his subsci^ucnt visits during the winter, the work appeared to be continually advancing, jind sevorul were found to be useful as cxhorters. Here he formed several classes, including a very large part of the village." 1^ .Jt^,a^-l**t3.- TSX TEARS IK OREGON. 401 COL. FREMONT'S ADVENTURES IN CROSSING CALIFORNIA MOUNTAIN. February 1st. — The snow -which had intermitted in the evening, commenced falling again in the course of the night, and it snowed steadily all day. In the morning I acquainted the men with my decision, and explained to them that neces- sity required us to make a great effort to clear the moun- tains. I reminded them of the beautiful valley of the Sac- ramento, with which they were familiar from the descrip- tions of Carson, who had been there some fifteen years ago, and who, in our. late privations, had delighted us in speaking of its rich pastures and abounding game, and drew a vivid contrast between its summer climate, less than a hundred miles distant, and the falling snow around us. I informed them (and long experience had given them confidence in my observations and good instruments) that almost directly west, and only about seventy miles distant, was the great farming establishment of Captain Sutter — a gentleman who had formerly lived in Missouii, and, emigrating to this coun- try, had become the possessor of a principality. I assured them that from the neights of the mountain before us, we should doubtless see the valley of the Sacrimento river, and with one effort place ourselves again in the midst of plenty. The people received this decision with the cheerful obedi- ence which had always characterized them, and the day was immediately devotod to the preparations necessary to enable us to carry it into effect. Leggins, moccasins, cloth- ing — all were put into the best state to resist the cold. Our guide was not neglected. Extremity of suffering might make him desert ; we therefore did the best we could for him. Leggins, moccasins, some articles of clothing, and a large green blanket, in addition to the blue and scarlet cloth, were lavished upon him, and to his great and evident con- tentment. He arrayed himself in all his colors, and, clad in green, blue, and scarlet, he made a gay-looking Indian ; and, 26 402 TSir TEARS 15 OREGOIT. with his various presents, was probably richer and bettci clothed than any of his tribe had ever been before. I have already said that our provisions were very low ; we had neither tallow or grease of any kind remaining, and the want of salt became one of our greatest privations. The poor dog which had been found in the Bear River valley, and which had been a compagnoii de voyage ever since, had now become fat, and the mess to which it belonged, requested permission to kill it. Leave was granted. Spread out on the snow, the meat looked very good ; and it made a strength- ening meal for the greater part of the camp. Indians brought in two or three rabits during the day, which were purchased from them. The river was forty to seventy feet wide, and now entirely frozen over. It was wooded with large cottonwood, willow, and grain de hceuf. By observation, the latitude of this en- campment was 38° 3*7' 18". 2d. — It had ceased snowing, and this morning the lower air was clear and frosty; and six or seven thousand feet above, the peaks of the Sierra now and then appeared among the rolling clouds, which were rapidly dispersing before the sun. Our Indian shook his head as he pointed to the icy pinnacles, shooting high up into the sky, and seeming almost immedi- ately above us. Crossing the river on the ice, and leaving it immediately, we commenced the ascent of the mountain along the valley of a tributary stream. The people were unusually silent, for every man knew that our enterprise was hazardous, and the issue doubtful. The snow deepened rapidly, and it soon became necessary to break a road. For this service, a party of ten was formed, mounted on the strongest horses, each man in succession opening the road on foot, or on horseback, until himself and his horse became fatigued, when he stepped aside, and, the remaining number passing ahead, he took his station in the rear. Leaving this stream, and pui'suing a very direct course, we passed over an intervening ridge to the river we had left. On the way we passed two low huts entirely covered with snow, which might very easily have escaped observation. A family was Uving in each ; and the only trail I saw in the neighborhood was from the door-hole to a nut-pine tree near, which supplied them with food and fuel. We found two similar huts on the creek where we next ar- rived ; and, traveling a little higher up, encamped on its TJIN YEARS IX OREGON. 403 ar- its bank in about four feet depth of snow. Carson, found near, an open liill-side, where the wind and the sun had melted . the snow, leaving exposed sufficient bunch-grass for the animals to-night. The nut-pines were now giving way to heavy timber, and there were now immense pines on the bottom, around the roots of which the sun had melted away the snow ; and here we made our camp and built huge fires. To-day we had traveled sixteen mi' ^, and our elevation above the sea was 6,700 feet. •' 3d. — Turning our faces directly towards the main chain, we ascended an open hollow along a small tributary to the river, Avhich, according to the Indians, issues from a moun- tain tc the south. The snow was so deep in the liollow, that w e were obliged to travel along the steep hill-sides, and over spurs, where the wind and sun ha^l in places lessened the snow, and where the grass, whic'i appeared to be in good quality along the sides of the mountains, was exposed. We opened our road in the same Avay as yesterday, but made only seven miles, and encamped by some springs at the foot of a high and steep hill, by which the hollow as- cended to another basin in the mountain. The little stream belo w was entirely buried in snow. The springs were shaded by the boughs of a lofty cedar, which here made its first ap- pearance ; the usual height was one hundred and twenty to one hundred and thirty feet, and one that was measured near by was six feet in diameter. There being no grass exposed here, the horses were sent back to that which we had seen a few miles below. We occupied the remainder of the day in beating down a road to the foot of the hill, a mile or two distant ; the snow being beaten down when moist, in the warm part of the day, and then hard frozen at night, made a foundation that would bear the weight of the animals next morning. During the day several Indians joined us on snow-shoes. These were made of a circ\ilar hoop, about a foot in diameter, the inte- rior space being filled with an open network of bark. 4th. — I went ahead early with two or three men, each with a led horse to break the road. We were obliged to abandon the hollow entirely, and work along the mountain- side, which was very steep, and the snow covered with an icy crust. We cut a footing as we advanced, and trampled a road through for the animals ; but occasionally one 404 T?N TEARS IN OREOOK plunged outside the trail, and slided along the field to the bottom, a hundred yards below. Late in ihe day we reached another bench in the hollow, where, in summer, the stream passed over a small precipice. Here was a short distance of dividing ground between the two ridges, and beyond an open basin, some ten miles across, whose bottom presented a field of snow. At the further or western side rose the middle crest of the mountain, a dark looking ridge of vol- canic rock. The summit line presented a range of naked peaks, appa- rently destitute of snow and vegetation ; but below the face of the whole country was covered with timber of extraordi- nary size. Towards a pass which the guide indicated here, we at- tempted in the afternoon to force a road ; but after a labo- rious plunging through two or three hundred yards, our best horses gave out, entirely refusing to make any further effort, and, for the time, we were brought to a stand. The guide informed us that we were entering the deep snow, and liere began the difficulties of the mountain ; and to him, and al- most to all, our entei^rise seemed hopeless. I returned a short distance back, to the break in the hollow, where I met Mr. Fitzpatrick. The camp had been occupied all the day in endeavoring to ascend the hill, but only the best horses had succeeded ; the animals, generally, not having sufficient strength to bring themselves up without the packs ; and all the line of road between this and the springs were strewed with camp- stores and equipage, and horses floundering in snow. I therefore immediately encamped on the ground with my own mess, which was in advance, and directed Mr. Fitzpat- rick to encamp at the springs, and send all the animals, in charge of Tabeau, with a strong guard, back to the place Avhere they had been pastured the night before. Here was a small spot of level ground, protected on one side by the mountain, and on the other sheltered by a little ridge of rock. It was an open grove of pines, which assimilated in size to the grandeur of the mouLtam, being frequently six feet in diameter. To-night we had no shelter, but we i. .ie a large fire around the trunk of one of the huge pines ; and covering the snow with small boughs, on which we spread our blan- kets, soon made ourselves comfortable. The night was very TBN YEARS IN OREOOK. 405 ire in- jry bright and clear, though the thermometer was only at 10°. A strong wind, which sprang up at simdown, made it in- ten sly cold ; and this was one of the bitterest nights during the journey. Two Indians joined our party here ; and one of them, an old man, immediately began to harangue us, saying that ourselves and animals would perish in the sno" ; ; and that if we would go back, he would show us another and a bet- ter way across the mountain. He spoke in a very loud voice, and there was a singular repetition of phrases and arrangement of words, which rendered hiS speech striking and not immusical. We had now begun to understand some words, and, with the aid of signs, easily comprenended the old man's simple ideas. " Rock upon rock — rock upon rock — snow upon snow^," said he ; " even if you get over the snow, you will not be able to get down from the mountains." He made us the sign of precipices, and showed us how the feet of the horses would slip, and throw them off from the narrow trails that led along their sides. Our Chinook, who com- prehended even more readily than ourselves, and believed our situation hopeless, covered his head with his blanket, and began to weep and lament. "I wanted to see the whites, said he ; "I came away from mj?^ own people to see the whites, and I would'nt care to die among them, but here" — and he looked around into the cold night and gloomy forest, and, drawing his blanket over his head, began again to lament. Seated around the tree, the fire illuminating the rocks and the tall bolls of the pines round about, and the old In- dian harranguing, we presented a group of very serious faces. 6th. — The night had been too cold to sleep, and we were up very early. Our guide was standing by the fire with all his finery on ; and seeing him shiver in the cold, I threw on his shoulders one of my blankets. Wo missed him a few minutes afterwards, and never saw him again. He had de- serted. His bad faith and treachery were in perfect keep- ing with the estimate of Indian character, which a long in- tercourse with this people had gradually forced upon my mind. While a portion of the camp were occupied in bringing up the baggage to this point, the remainder were busied in 406 TEN TEARS IN OREGOK. making sledges and snow-shoes. I had determined to ex- plore the mountaiu ahead, and the sledges were to be used in transporting the baggage. The moiintains here consisted wholly of a white micace- ous granite. Tlie day was perfectly clear, and, while the sun was in the sky, warm and pleasant. By observation our latitude was 38° 42' 26 ; and eleva- tion by the boiling point, 7,400 feet. 6th. — Accompanied by Mr. Fitzpatrick, I set out to-day with a reconnoitering party on snow-shoes. We marched all in single file, trampling the snow as heavily as we could. — Crossing tlie open basin, in a march of about ten miles we reached tlie top of one of the peaks, to the left of the pass indicated by our guide. Far below us, dimmed by the dis- tance, was a large snowless valley, bounded on tlio western side, at the distance of about a hundred miles, by a low range of mountains, which Carson recognised with delight as the mountains bordering the coast. " There," said he, "is the.Httle mountain — it is fifteen years since I saw it; but I am just as sure as if I had seen it yesterday." Be- tween us, then, and this low coast range, was the valley of the Sacramento ; and no one who had not accompanied us through the incidents of our life for the last few months could realize the delight with which at last we looked down upon it. At the distance of apparently 30 miles beyond us were distinguished spots of prairie ; and a dark line which could be traced with the glass, was imagined to be the course of the river ; but we were evidently at a great height above the valley, and between us and the plains ex- tended miles of snowy fields and broken ridges of pine -cov- ered mountains. It was late in the day when we turned towards the camp ; and it grew rapidly cold as it drew towards night. One of the man became fatigued, and his feet began to freeze, and building a fire in the trunk of a dry old cedar, Mr. Fitzpat- rick remained with him until his clothes could be dried, and he was in a condition to come on. After a day's march of 20 miles, we straggled into the camp one after another, at night-fall ; the greater number excessively fatigued, only two of the party having ever traveled on snow shoes before. All our energies are now directed to getting our animals across the snow ; and it was supposed that after all the bag- gage had been drawn with the sleighs over the trail we had iffiitffi standi ;, ,„i,r i«,-.-ift A TES TEARS IIST OREGON. 407 made, it would be sufficiently hard to bear our animals. At several places between this point and the ridge, Ave had dis- covered some grassy spots, where the wind and sun had dis- persed the snow from the sides of the hills, and these were to form resting-places to support the animals for a night in their passage across. On our way across we had set on fire several broken stumps, and dried trees, to melt holes in the snow for the camps. Its general depth was five feet ; but we passed over places where it was twenty feet deep, as shown by the trees. With one party drawing sleighs loaded with baggage, I advanced to-day about four miles along the trail, and en- camped at the first grassy spot, where we expected to bring our horses. Mr. Fitzpatrick, Avith another party, remained behind, to form an intermediate station between us and the animals. 8 th. — The night has been extremely cold ; but perfectly still, and beautifully clear. Before the sun appeared this morning, the thermometer was 5° below zero ; 1° higher, Avhen his rays struck the lofty peaks ; and 0° when they reached our eamp. Scenery and Aveather combined, must render these moun- tains beautiful in summer ; the purity and deep-blue color of the sky are singulaily beautiful ; the days are sunny and bright, and even Avarm in the noon hours ; and if we could be free from the many anxieties that oppress us, even now wc Avould be delighted here; but our provisions are get- ting fearfully scant. Sleighs arrived Avith baggage about ten o'clock ; and leaving a portion of it here, Ave continued on for a mile and a half, and encamped at the foot of a long hill on this side of the open bottom. Bernier and Godey, who yesterday morning had been sent to ascend a higher peak, got in, hungiy and fatigued. They confirmed Avhat Ave had already seen. Tavo other sleighs ariived in the afternoon ; and the men being fatigued, I gave them all tea and sugar. Snow clouds began to rise in the S. S. W. ; and, apprehensive of a storm, which Avould destroy our road, I sent the people back to Mr. Fitzpatrick, Avith directions to send for the animals in the morning. — With me remained Mr. Preuss, Mr. Talbot, and Carson, Avith Jacob. ElcA-ation of the camp, by the boiling point, is 7,920 feet. 0th. — During the night the Aveather changed, the wind 408 TBN YEAK3 IN OREGOK. rising to a gale, and commencing to snow before daylight ; before morning the trail was covered. We remained quiet in camp all day, in the course of which the weather improved. Four sleighs arrived towards evening, with the bedding of the men. We suffer much from the want of salt ; and all the men are becoming weak from insufficient food. 10th. — Taplin was sent back with a few men to assist Mr. Fitzpatrick ; and continuing on with thr«e sleighs carrying a part of the baggage, we had the satisfaction to encamp within two and a half miles of the head of the hollow, and at the foot of the last mountain ridge. Here two large trees had been set on fire, and in the holes, where the snow had been melted away, wc found a comfortable camp. The wind kept the air filled with snow during the day ; the sky was very dark in the south-west, though elsewhere very clear. The forest here has a noble appearance ; and tall cedar is abundant ; its greatest height being 130 feet, and circumference 20, three or four feet above the ground ; and here I see for the first time the white pine, of which there are some magnificent trees. Hemlock spruce is among the timber, occasionally as large as eight feet in diameter, four feet above the ground; but, in ascending, it tapers rapidly to less than one foot at the height of eighty feet. — I have not seen any higher ihan 130 feet, and the slight upper part is frequently broken off by the wind. The white spruce is frequent ; and the red pine (pinus Colorado of the Mexicans) Avhich constitutes the beautiful forest along the banks of the Sierra Nevada to the northward, is here the principal tree, not attaining a greater height than 140 feet, though with sometimes a diameter of ten. Most of these trees appeared to differ slightly from those of the same kind on the other side of the continent. The elevation of the camp by the boiling point, is 8,050 feet. We are now 1,000 feet above the level of the South Pass in the Rocky mountain ; and still we are not done as- cending. The top of a flat ridge near was bare of snow, and very well sprinkled with bunch-grass, sufficient to pas- ture the animals two or three days ; and this was to be th( ir main point of support. This ridge is composed of a com- pact trap, or basalt of a columnar structure ; over the sur- face are scattered large boulders of porus trap. The hills are in many places entirely covered with small fragments of volcanic rock. TBir TEARS IX OREOOy. 409 le le le Uls of Putting on on our snow-shoes, we spent the afternoon in exploring a road ahead. The glare of the snow, combined with great fatigue, had rendered many people nearly blind ; but we were fortunate in having some black silk handker- chiefs, which, worn as veils, very much relieved the eye. 11th. — High wind continued, and our trail this morning was nearly invisible — here and there indicated by a little ridge of snow. Our situation became tiresome and dreary, requiring a strong exercise of patience and resolution. In the evening I received a message from Mr. Fitzpatrick, acquainting me with the utter failure of his attempt to get our mules and horses over the snow — the half hidden trail had proved entirely too slight to support them, and they had broken through, and were plunging about or lying half bu- ried in snow. He was occupied in endeavoring to get them back to his camp ; and in the mean time sent to me for fur- ther instructions. I wrote to him to send the animals imme- diately back to their old pastures ; snd after having made mauls and shovels, turn in all the strength of his party to open and beat a road through the snow, strengthening it with branches and boughs of the pines. 12th. — ^We made mauls, and worked hard at our end of the road all day. The wind was high, but the sun bright, and the snow thawing. We worked down the face of the hill, to meet the people at the other end. Towards sun- down it began to grow cold, and we shouldered our mauls and trudged back to camp. ] 3 th. — We continued to labor on the road ; and in the course of the day had the satisfaction to see the people working down the face of the opposite hill, about three miles distant. During the morning we had the pleasure of a visit from Mr. Fitzpatrick, with the information that all was going on well. A party of Indians had passed on snow- shoes, who said they were going to the western side of the mountain after fish. This was an indication that the salmon were coming up the streams ; and we could hardly restrain our impatience as we thought of them, and worked with in- creased vigor. The meat train did not arrive this evening, and 1 gave Godey leave to kill our little dog, (Tlamath,) which he pre- pared in Indian fashion ; scorching off the hair, and wash- ing the skin with soap and snoAv, and then cutting it up into pieces which were laid on the snow. Shortly afterwards. 410 TEK TEARS LK OREOOV. the sleigh arrived with a supply of horsf . ^eat ; and we had to-night an extraordinary dinner — pea-toup, mule and dog. 14th — The dividing ridge of the Sierra is in sight from this encampment. Accompanied by Mr. Preuss, I ascended to-day the highest peak to the right ; from which we had a beautiful view of a mountain lake at our feet, about fifteen miles in length, and so entirely surrounded by mountains that we could not discover an outlet. We had taken with us a glass ; but thouglx we enjoyed an extended view, the valley was half hidden in mist, as when we had seen it be- fore. Snow could be distinguished on the higher parts of the coast mountains ; eastward, as far as the eye could extend, it ranged over a terrible mass of broken snowy mountains, fading off blue in the distance. The rock composing the summit consists of a very coarse, dark, volcanic conglomer- ate ; the lower parts appeared of a slaty structure. The highest trees were a few scattered cedars and aspeas. From the immediate foot of the peak, we were two hours reaching the summit, and one hour and a quarter in descending. The day had been very bright, still, and clear, and spring seems to be advancing rapidly. While the sun is in the sky, the snow melts rapidly, and gushing springs cover the face of the mountain in all the exposed places; but their suiface freezes instantly with the disappearance of the sun. I obtained to-night some observations ; and the result from these, and others made during our stay, gives for the latitude 38° 41' 57", longitude 120° 25' 5V", and rate of the chronometer 25.82". 16th. — We had succeeded in getting our animals safely to the first grassy hill ; and this morning I started with Ja- cob on a reconnoitering expedition beyond the mountain. — We traveled along the crests of narrow ridges, extending down from the mountain in the direction of the valley, from which the snow was fast melting away. On the open spots was tolerably good grass ; and I judged we should succeed in getting the camp down by way of these. Towards sun- down we discovered some icy spots in a deep hollow ; and, descending the mountain, we encamped on the head -water of a little creek, where at last the water found its way to the Pacific. The night was clear and very long. We heard the cries of some wild animals, which had been attracted by our fire, and a flock of geese passed over during the night. Even TEN YEAUS IN OREGON. 411 these strange sounds had something pleasant to our senses in this region of silence and desolation. We started again early in the morning. The creek ac- quired a regular breadth of about twenty feet, and we soon began to hear the rushing of the water below the icy sur- face, over which we traveled to avoid the snow ; a few miles below we broke through, where the water was several feet deep, and halted to make a fire and dry our clothes. We continued a few miles farther, walking being very laborious without snow-shoes. I was now perfectly satisfied that we had struck the stream on which Mr. Sutter lived ; and turning about, made a hard push, and reached the camp at dark. Here we had the pleasure to find all the remaining animals, 6*7 in number, safely arrived at the grassy hill near the camp ; and here, also, we were agreeably surprised with the sight of an abun- dance of salt. Some of the horse-guard had gone to a neighboring hut for pine nuts, and discovered unexpectedly a large cake of very white fiae-grained salt, Avhich the In- dians told them they had brought from the other side of the mountain ; they used it to eat with their pine nuts, and read- ily sold it for goods. On the 19th, the people were occupied in making a road and bringing up the baggage ; and, on the afternoon of the next day, February 20, 1844, we encamped, with the ani- mals and all the materiel of the camp, on the summit of the Pass in the dividing ridge, 1,000 miles by our traveled road from the Dalles to the Columbia. The people who had not yet been to this point, climed the neighboring peak to enjoy a look at the valley. The temperature of boiling water gave for the elevation of the encampment, 9,338 feet above the sea. This was two thousand feet higher than the South Pass in the Rocky mountains, and several peaks in view rose sev- eral thousand feet still higher. Thus at the extremity of the continent, and near the coast, the phenomenon was seen of a range of mountains still higher than the great Rocky mountains themselves. This extraordinary fact accoimts for the Great Basin, and shows that there must be a system of small lakes and rivers here scattered over a flat country, and which the extended and lofty range of the Sierra Nevada prevents from escaping to the Pacific ocean. Latitude 38*^ 44' ; longitude 120« 28'. 412 TEN TKARS IN OREGON. Thus the pass in the Sierra Nevada, which so well de- serves its name of Snowy mountain, is eleven degrees west and about four degrees south of the South Pass. 21st. — We now considered ourselves victorious over the mountain ; having only the descent before us, and the val- ley under our eyes, we felt strong hope that we should force our way down. But this was a case in which the descent was not facile. Still deep fields of snow lay between them, and there was a large intervening space of rough-looking mountains, through which we had yet to wind our way. — Carson roused me this morning with an early fire, and we were all up long before day, in order to pass the snow fields before the sun should render the crust soft. We en- joyed this morning a scene at sunrise, which even here was unusually glorious and beautiful. Immediately above the eastern mountains was repeated a cloud-formed mass of purple ranges, bordered with bright yellow gold ; the peaks shot up into a narrow line of crimson cloud, above which the air was filled with a greenish orange ; and over all was the singular beauty of the blue sky. Passing along a ridge which commanded the lake on our right, of which we began to discover an outlet through a chasm on the west, we passed over alternating open ground and hard crusted snow- fields which supported the animals, and encamped on the ridge, after a journey of six miles. The grass was better than we had yet seen, and we were encamped in a clump of trees 20 or 30 feet high, resembling white pine. With the exception of these small clumps, the ridges were bare ; and where the snow found the support of the trees, the wind had blown it up into banks 10 or 15 feet high. It required much care to hunt out a practicable way, as the most open places frequently led to impassable banks. We had hard and doubtflil labor yet b«^fore us, as the snow appeared to be heavier where the timber began fur- ther down, with few open spots. Ascending a height, we traced out the best line we could discover for the next day's march, and had at least the consolation to see that the moun- tain descended rapidly. The day had been one of April — gusty, with a few occasional flakes of snow — ^which, in the afternoon, enveloped the upper mountain in clouds. We watched them anxiously, and now we dreaded a snow-storm. Shortly afterwards we heard the roll of thunder, and, look- ing towards the valley, found it enveloped in a thunder- TEN YEARS IN OREGON. 413 we rm. lok- er- storm. For us, as connected with the idea of sun. ler, it had a singular charm, and we watched its progress with ex- cited feehngs until nearly sunset, when the sky cleared off brightly, and we saw a shining line of water directing its course towards another, a broader and larger sheet. We knew that these could bo no other than the Sacrimento and the Bay of San Francisco ; but, after our long wandering in rugged mountains, where so frequently we had met with disappointments, and where the crossing of every ridge dis- played some unknown lake or river, we were yet almost afraid to believe that we were at last to escape into the ge- nial country of which we had heard so many glowing de- scriptions, and dreaded to find some vast interior lake, whose bitter waters would bring us disappointment. On the south- ern shore of what appeared to be the bay could be traced the gleaming line where entered another large stream ; and again the Buenaventura rose up in our minds. Carson had entered the valley along the southern side of the bay, and remembered perfectly to have crossed the mouth of a very large stream, which they had been obliged to raft ; but the country then was so entirely covered with water from snow and rain, that he had been able to form no correct impressions of water- courses. We had the satisfaction to know that at least there were people below. Fires were lit up in the valley just at night, appearing to be in answer to ours : and these signs of life renewed, in some measure, the gayety of the camp. They appeared so near, that w^e judged them to be among the tim- ber of some of the neighboring ridges ; but, having them constantly in view day after day, and night after night, we afterwards found them to be fires that had been kindled by the Indians among the tulares, on the shore of the bay, 80 miles distant. Among the very few plants that appeared here, was the common blue flax. To-night a mule was killed for food. 22d. — Our breakfast was over long before day. We took advantage of the coolness of the early morning to get over the snow, which to-day occurred in very deep banks among the timber; but we searched out the coldest places, and the animals passed successfully with their loads over the hard crust. Now and then the delay of making a road oc- casioned much labor and loss of time. In the after part of the day, we saw before us a handsome grassy ridge » 414 TEN YEARS IN ORREGON. poiiiilt ; and making a desperate push over a snow-field ten or tifteen feet dcon, we happily succeeded in getting the camp across, and encamped on the ridge, after a march of three miles. We had again the prospect of a thunder-storm be- low, and to-night we killed another mule — now our only re- source from starvation. We satisfied ourselves during the day that the lake had an outlet between two ranges on the right ; and with this the creek on which I had encamped probably effected a junction beloAV. Between these we were descending. We continued to enjoy the same delightful weather ; the sky of the same beautiful blue, and such a sunset and sun- rise as on our Atlantic coast we could scarcely imagine. — And here among the mountains, 9,000 feet above the sea, we have the deep blue sky and sunny climate of Smyrna and Palermo, which a little map before me shows are in the same latitude. Elevation above the sea, by the boiling point, is 8,565 feut. 23d. — This was our most difficult day; we were forced off the ridges by the quantity of snow among the timber, and obliged to take to the mountain sides, where occasion- ally rocks and a southern exposure afforded us a chance to scramble along. But these were steep, and slippery with snow and ice ; and the tough evergreens of the mountain impeded our way, tore our skins, and exhausted our pa- tience. Some of us had the misfortune to wear moccasins with parflcche soles, so slippery that we coiUd not keep our feet, and generally crawled across the snow-beds. Axes and mauls were necessary to-day, to make a road through the snow. Going ahead with Carson to reconnoitre the road, we reached in the afternoon the river which made the outlet of the lake. Carson sprang over, clear across a place where the stream was compressed among rocks, but the 2iarjleche sole of my moccasin glanced from the icy rock, and precipitated me hi to the river. It was some few sec- onds before I could recover myself in the current, and Car- son, thinking me huni, jumped in after me, and we both had an icy bath. We tried to search awhile for my gun, which had been lost in the fall, but the cold drove us out ; and ma- king a large fire on the bank, after we had partially dried ourselves we went back to meet the camp. We afterwards found that the gun had been slung under the ice which Imed the banks of the creek. TEN YNARS ly OUECOK. 4Ii ma- Iried ards hich fsing our old plan of breaking roads with alternate hor- ses, wo reached the creek in the ovcniiig, and encamped on a diy open place in the ravine. Another branch which we had followed, here comes in on the left ; and from this point the mountain wall, on which we liad traveled to-day, faces to the south along the right bank of th^ river, where the sun appears to have melted the snow ; but the opposite ridgo is entirely covered. — Here among the pines, the liill side produces but little grass — barely sutficient to keep life in the animals. We had the pleasure to be rained upon this afternoon ; and grass was now our greatest solicitude. Many of the men looked badly ; and some this evening were giving out. 24th. — We rose at three in the morning, for an astronom- ical observation, and obtained for the place a lat. of 38° 46' 58". The sky was clear and pure, with a sharp wind from the northeast, and thermometer 2° below the freezing point. We continued down the south face of the mountain ; our road leading over dry ground, we were able to avoid the snow almost entirely. In the course of the morning, we struck a foot path, which we were generally able to keep ; and the ground was soft to our animals' feet, being sandy or covered with mould. Green grass began to make its ap- pearance, and occasionally we found a hill scatteringly cov- ered with it. The character of the forest continued the same ; and, among the trees, the pine with sharp leaves and very large cones was abundant, son-e <^>r them being noble trees. We measured one that had ten feet diameter, though the height was not more than one hundred and thirty feet. All along, the river was a roaring torrent, its fall very great ; and, descending with a rapidity to Avhich we had long been strangers, to our great pleasure oak trees appeared on the ridge, and soon became very frequent ; on these I remarked great quantities of mistletoe. Rushes began to make their appearance ; and at a small creek where they were abundant, one of the messes was left with the weakest horses, while we continued on. The opposite mountain side was very steep and continuous — unbroken by ravines, and covered with pines and snow ; while on the side we were traveling, innumerable ' Ivulets poured down from the ridge. Continuing on, we halted a moment at one of these rivulets, to admire some beautiful evergreen trees, resembling live oak, which shaded the little 416 TEN YEARS TN OREGON. i stream. They were forty to fifty feet high, and two in diam- eter, with a uniform tufted top ; and the summer green of their beautiful foliage, with the singing birds, and the sweet summer wind which was whirling about the dry oak leaves, nearly into>cicated us with delight ; and we hurried on, filled with excitement, to escape entirely from the horrid region of inhospitable snow, to the perpetual spring of the Sacramento. When we had traveled about ten miles, the valley opened a little to an oak and pine bottom, through which ran rivu- lets closely bordered with rushes, on Avhich our half-starved horses fell with avidity ; and here we made our encampment. Here the roaring torrent has already become a river, and we had descended to an elevation of 3,864 feet. Along our road to-day the rock was a white granite, which appears to constitute the upper parts of the moun- tains on both the eastern and western slopes ; while between, the central is a volcanic rock. Another horse was killed to-night, for food. 25th — Believing that the difficulties of the road were pas- sed, and leaving Mr. Fitzpatrick to follow slowly, as the con- dition of the animals required, I started ahead this morning with a p; rty of eight, consisting of myself, Mr. Preuss and Mr. Talbot, Carson, Derosier, Towns, Proue, and Jacob. — We look with us some of the best animals, and my intention was to proceed as rapidly as possible to the house of Mr. Sutter, and return to meet the party with a supply of pro- visions and fresh animals. Continuing down the rivei*, which pursued a very direct westerly course through a narrow valley, with only a very slight and narrow bott )m-land, Ave made twelve miloi?, and encamped at some old Indian huts, apparently a fishing- place on the river. The bottom was covered with trees of deciduous foliage, and overgrown with vines' and rushes. — On a bench of the hill near by, was a hill of fresh green grass, six inches long in some of the tufts which I had the curiosity to measure. The animals were driven here ; and I spent part of the afternoon sitting on a large rock among them, enjoying the pauseless rapidity with which they luxu- riated on the imaccustomed food. The forest was imposing to-day in the magnificence of the trees ; some of the pines bearing largo cones, were ten feet in diameter. Cedars also abounded, and we measured one twenty-eight and a half feet in circumference, four feet TEN YBARS Iir OREOOK. 417 from the ground. This noble tree seemed here to be in its proper soil and climate. We found it on both sides of tht Sierra, but most abundant on the west. 26th. — We continued to follow the stream, the mountains on either hand increasing in height as we descended, and shutting up the river nan*owly in precipices, along which we had great difficulty to get our horses. It rai >ed heavily during the afternoon, and we were forced off the river to the heights above ; whence we descended, at night-fall, the point of a spur between the river and a fork of nearly equal size, coming in from the right. Here we saw, on the lower hils, the first flowers in bloom, which occurred suddenly, and in considerable quantity— one of them a species of gilia. The current in both streams (rather torrents than rivers) was broken by large boulders. It was late and the animals fatigued ; and not succeeding to find a ford immediately, we encamped, although the hill-side afforded but a few stray bunches of grass, and the horses, standing about in the rain, looked very miserable. 27 th. — We succeeded in fording the stream, and made a trail by which we crossed the point of the opposite hill, VThich, on the southern exposure, was prettily covered with green grass, and we halted a mile from our last encamp- ment. The river was only about sixty feet wide, but rapid, and occasionally deep, foaming among boulders, and the wa- ter beautifully clear. We encamped on the hill-slope, as there was no bottom level, mid the opposite ridge is con- tinuous, affording no streams. We had with us a large kettle ; and a mule being killed here, his head was boiled in it for several hours, and made a passable soup for famished people. Below, precipices on the river forced us to the heights, which wo ascended by a steep spur, 2,000 feet high. My favorite horse, Proveau, had become very weak, and was scarcely able to bring himself to the top. Travelling here was good, except in crossing the ravines, which were nar- row, steep, and frequent. We caught a glimpse of a deer, the first animal we had seen ; but did not succeed in ap- proaching him. Proveau could not keep up, and I left Ja- cob to bring him on, being obliged to press forward with the party, as there was no grass in the forest. We grow 27 #. mm 418 TEN YEARS IN OBEGON. tf very anxious as the day advanced and no grass appeared, for the lives of our animals depended on finding it to-night. They Avere in just such a condition that grass and repose for the night enabled them to get on the next day. Every hour we had been expecting to see open out before us the valley, which, from the mountain above, seemed almost at our feet. A new and singular shrub, which had made its appearance since crossing the mountain, was very frequent to-day. It branched out near the ground, forming a clump eight to ten feet high, with pale -green leaves, of an oval form ; and the body and branches had a naked appearance, as if stripped of the bark, which is very smooth and thin, of a chocolate color, contrasting well with the pale-grecii of the leaves. The day was nearly gone ; we had mad*' n hi <> day's march, and found no grass. Towns became ^ f^l^t- headed, wandering oflf into the woods without knowing where he was going, and Jacob brought him back. Near night-ftill we descended into the steep ravine of a handsome creek 30 feet wide, and 1 was engaged in getting the horses up the opposite hill, when I heard a shout from Carson, who had gone ahead a few hundred yards — " Life yet," said he, as he came up, " life yet ; I have found a hill- side sprinkled with grass euough for the night." We drove along our horses, and encamped at the place about dark, and there was just room enough to make a place for shelter on the edge of the stream. Three horses were lost to-day — ^Proveau ; a fine young horse from the Columbia, belong- ing to Charles Towns ; and another Indian horse, which carried our cooking utensils. The two former gave out, and the latter strayed ofif into the woods as we reached the camp. 29th — ^We lay shut up in the narrow ravine, and gave the animals a necessary day ; and men were sent back after the oihers. Deros?er volunteered to bring up Proveau, to whom he knew I was greatly attached, as he had been my ' favorite horse on both expeditions. Carson and I climbed OM of the nearest mountains ; the forest land still extended ahead, and the valley appeared as far as ever; The pack horse was found near the camp ; but Derosier did not get in. March 1st. — Derosier did not get in during the night, and leaving him to follow, as no grass remamed here, we TE!I YEAF,3 IN OREGON 419 continued on over the uplands, crossing many small streams, and camped again on the river, having made six miles. — Here we found the hill side covered (although lightly) with fresh green grass ; and fr m this time forward we found it always improving and ahundant. We made a pleasant camp on the river hill, where were some beautiful specimens of the chocolate-colored shrub, which were a foot in diameter near the ground, and fifteen to twenty feet high. The opposite ridge runs continuously along, unbroken by streams. We are rapidly descending into the spring, and we are leaving our snowy region far be- hind ; every thing is getting green ; butterflies are swarm- ing ; numerous bugs are creeping out, wakened from their winter's sleep ; and the forest flowers are coming into bloom. Among those which appeared most numerously to- day was dodecatheon dentatum. We began to be imeasy at Derosier's absence, fearing he might have been bewildered in the woods. Charles Towns, who had not yet recovered his mind, went to swin in the river, as if it were summer, and the stream placid, when it was a cold mountain torrent foaming among the rocks. We were happy to see Derosier appear in the evening. He came in, and, sitting down by the fire, began to tell us where he had been. He imagined he had been gone sever- al days, and thought we were still at the camp where he had left us ; and we were pained to see that his mind was deranged. It appeared that he had been lost in the moun- tain, and hunger and fatigue, joined to weakness of body and fear of perishing in the mountmns, had crazed him. — The times were severe when stout men lost their minds from extremity of sufifering — ^when horses died — ^and when mules and horses, ready to die of starvation, were killed for food. Yet there was no murmuring or hesitation. A short distance below our encampment the river moun- tains terminated in precipices, and, after a fatiguing march of only a few miles, we encamped on a bench where there were springs, and an abundance of the freshest grass. In the mean time Mr. Preuss continued on down the rivar, and, unaware that we had encamped so early in the^ day, was lost. When night arrived and he did not come in, we be- gan to understand what had happened to him ; but it was too late to make any search. 420 129 TEAnS IN OREfiOir 3d. — ^We followed Mr. Preuss' trail for a considerable dis- tance along the river, iintil we reached a place where he had descended to the stream below and encamped. Here we shouted and fired guns, but received no answer ; and we concluded that he had pushed on down the stream. I de- termined to keep out from the river, along which it was nearly impracticable to travel with animals, until it should form a valley. At every step the country improved in beauty ; the pines were rapidly disappearing, and oaks be- came the principal trees of the forest. Among these, the p r '1" or tree was the evergreen oak, ^which by way of disv n, we call the live-oak ;) and with these occurred frequi! iy a new species of oak bearing a long slender acorn, from an inch to an inch and a half in length, which we now began to see formed the principal vegetable food of the inhabitants of this region. In a shOTt distance we crossed a little rivulet, where were two old huts, and near by were heaps of acorn-hulls. The ground round about was very rich, covered with an exuberant sward of grass ; and we sat down for a while in the shade of the oaks, to let the animals feed. We repeated our shouts for Mr. Preuss ; and this time were gratified with an answer. The voice grew rapidly nearer, ascending from the river ; but when we expected to see him emerge, it ceased entirely. We had caUed up some straggling Indian — the first we had met, al- though for two days back we had seen tracks — ^who, mista- king us for his fellows, had been only undeceived on getting close up. It would have been pleasant to witness his as- tonishment ; he would not have been more frightened had some of the old mountain spirits they are so much afraid of, suddenly appeared in his path. Ignorant of the character of these people, we had now an additional cause of uneasi- ness in regard to Mr. Preuss; he had no arms with him, and we began to think his chance doubtful. We followed on a trail, still keeping out from the river, and descended to a very 'arge creek, dashing with great velocity over a pre- eminently rocky bed, and among large boulders. The bed had sudden breaks, formed by deep holes and ledges of rock running across. Even here, it deserves the name of Sock creek, which we gave to it. We succeeded in fording it, and toiled about three thousand feet up the opposite hill. The mountains now were getting sensibly lower ;, but still •IKN TKAHS IH OREGON. 421 fliere is no valley ou the river, which presents steep and .ocky banks; but here, several miles from the river, the country is smooth and grassy ; the forest has no under- growth ; and in the open valleys of rivulets, or around spring-heads, the low groves of live-oak give the appear- ance of orchards in an old cultivated country. Occasionally we met deer, but had not the necessary time for hunting. — At one of these orchard grounds, we encamped about noon to make an effort for Mr. Preuss. One man took his way along a spur leading into the river, in hope to cross his trail ; and another took our own back. Both were volunteers : and to the successful man was promised a pair of pistols — not as a reward, but as a token of gratitude for a service which would free us all from much anxiety. We had among our few animals a horse which was so much reduced, that, with traveling, even the good grass could not save him ; and, having nothing to eat, he was killed this afternoon. He was a good animal, and had i^ade the journey round from Fort Hall. Dodecatheon dentatum continued the characteristic plant in flower ; and the naked looking shrub already mentioned continued characteristic, beginning to put forth a small white blossom. At evening the men returned, having seen or heard nothing of Mr. Preuss ; and I determined to make a hard push down the river the next morning and get ahead of him. 4th. — ^We continued rapidly along on a broad plainly- beaten trail, the mere traveling and breathing the delight- ful air being a positive enjoyment. Our road led along a ridge inclining to the river, and the air and the open grounds w^ere fragrant with flowering shrubs ; and in the course of the morning we issued on an open spur, by which we de- scended directly to the stream. Hore the river issues sud- denly from the mountains, which hitherto had hemmed it closely in ; these now become softer, and change sensibly their character ; and at this point commences the most beau- tiful valley in which we had ever traveled. We hurried to the river, on which we noticed a small sand beach, to which Mr. Preuss would naturally have gone. We found no trace of him, but, instead, were recent tracks of bare-footed In- dians, and little piles of muscle shells, and old fires where they had roasted the fish. AVe traveled on over the river k \ T 422 TEN YEARS IN OUECION. I grounds, which were undulating, and covered with grass to the river brink. We halted to noon a few miles beyond, always under the shade of the evergreen oaks, which formed open groves on the bottoms. Continuing our road in the afternoon, we ascended to the uplands, where the river passes round a point of great beauty, and goes through very remarkable dalles, in character re- sembling those of the Columbiii. Beyond, we again de- scended to the bottoms, where we found an Indian village, consisting of two or three huts ; we had come upon them suddenly, and the people had evidently just run off. The huts were low and slight, made like bee-hives in a picture, live or six feet high, and near each was a crate, formed of interlaced branches and grass, in size and shape like a very large hogshead. Each of these contained from six to nine bushels. These were filled Avith the long acorns already mentioned, and in the huts were several neatly made bas- kets, containing quantities of the acorns roasted. They were sweet and agreeably flavored, and we supplied our- selves with about half a bushel, leaving one of our shirts, a handkerchief, and some smaller articles, in exchange. The river again entered for a space among the hills, and we fol- lowed a trail leading across a bend through a handsome hol- low behind. Here, while engaged in trying to circumvent a de< r. we discovered some Indians on a hill several hundred yards ahead, and gave them a shout, to which they respon- ded by loud and rapid talking and vehement gesticulation, but made no stop, hurrying up the mountain as fast as their legs could carry them. We passed on and again encamped in a grassy grove. The absence of Mr. Preuss gave me great concern ; and, for a large reward, Derosier volunteered to go back on the trail. I directed him to search along the river, traveling upward for the space of a day and a half, at which time I expected he would meet Mr. Fitzpatrick, whom I requested to aid in the search ; at all events he was to go no farther, but return to this camp, where a cache of provisions was made for him. Continuing the next day down the river, we discovered three squaws in a little bottom, and surrounded them before they could make their escape. They had large conical bas- kets, which they were engaged in filling with a small leafy TEN YEARS IN OREGON'. 42S plant (erodium cicutarium) just now beginning to bloom, and covering the ground like a sward of grass. These did not make any lamentations, but appeared very much im- pressed with our appearance, speaking to us only in a whis- per, and offering us smaller baskets of the plant, which they signified to us was good to cat, making signs also that it was to be cooked by the fire. We. drew out a little cold horse meat, and the squaws made signs to us that the men had gone out after deer, and that we could have some by wait- ing till they came in. We observed that the horses ate with great avidity the herb which they had been gathering ; and here also, for the first time, we saw Indians eat the common grass — one of the squaws pulling several tufts, and eating it with apparent relish. Seeing our surprise, she pointed to the horses; but we could not well understand what she meant, except, perhaps, that what was good for the one was good for the other. We encamped in the evening on the shore of the river, at a place where the associated beauties of scenery made so strong an impression on us that we gave it the name of Beautiful Cjftnp. The undulating river shore was shaded with the live-oaks, which formed a continuous grove over the country, and the same grassy sward extended to tLe edge of the water, and we made our fires near some large granite masses which were lying among the trees. We had seen several of the acorn caches during the day, and here there were two which were very large, containing each, probably, ten bushels. Towards evening we heard a weak shout among the hills behind, and had the pleasure to see Mr. Preuss descending towards the camp. Like ourselves, he had traveled to-day 25 miles, but had seen nothing of Derosier. Knowing, on the day he was lost, that I was de- termined to keep the river as much as possible, he had not thought it necessary to follow the trail very closely, but walked on, right and left, certain to find it somewhere along the river, searching places to obtain good views of the country. Towards sun-set he climbed down towards the river to look for the camp ; but, finding no trail, concluded that we were behind, and walked back till night came on, whien, being very much fatigued, he collected drift-wood and made a large fire among the rocks. The next day it became more serious, and he encamped again alone, thinking MP warn 424 TEN TEARS rX ORBGOX. ^ that we must have taken some other course. To go back would have been madness in his weik and starved condition, and onward towards the valley was his only hope, always in expectation of reaching it soon. His principal means of subsistence were a few roots, which the hunters call sweet onions> having very little taste, but a good deal of nutri- ment, growing generally in .rocky ground, and requiring a good deal of labor to get, as he had only a pocket-knife. — Searching for these, he found a nest of big ants, which he let run on his hand, and stripped them off in his mouth ; these had an agreeable acid taste. One of his greatest pri- vations was the want of tobacco ; and a pleasant smoke at evening would have been a relief which only a voyageur could appreciate. He tried the dried leaves of the live-oak, knowing that those of other oaks were sometimes used as a substitute ; but these were too thick, and would not do. — On the 4th he made seven or eight miles, walking slowly along the river, avoiding as much as possible to climb the hills. In little pools he caught some of the smallest kind of frogs, which he swallowed, not so much in the gratifica- tion of hunger, as in the hope of obtaining some strength. Scattered along the river were old fire-places, where the In- tDS had roasted muscles and acorns ; but though he rched diligently, he did not there succeed in finding ei- ther. He had collected firewood for the night, when he heard, at some distance from the river, the barking of what he thought were two dogs, and walked in that direction as quickly as he was able, hoping to find there some Indian hut, but met only two wolves ; and, in his disappointment the gloom of the forest was doubled. Travelling the next day feebly down the river, he found five or six Indians at the huts of which we have s])oken ; some were painting themselves black, and others roasting acorns. Being only one man, they did not run off, but re- ceived him kindly, and gave him a welcome supply of roasted acorns. He gave them his pocket-knife in return, and stretched out his hand to one uf the Indians, who did not appear to comprehend the motion, but jumped back, as if he thought he was about to lay hold of him. They seemed afraid of him, not certain as to what he was. Traveling on, he came to the place where we had found the squaws. Here he found our fire still burning, and the TEN TEARS IN OREOOV. 425 tracks of the horses. The sight gave him sudden hope and courage ; and, following as fast as he could, joined us at evening. 6th. — ^We continued on our road throngh the same sur- passingly beautiful country, entirely unequalled for the pas- turage of stock by any thing we had ever seen. Our hor- ses had now become so strong that they were able to carry us, and we traveled rapidly — over four miles an hour ; four of us riding every alternate hour. Every few himdred yards we came upon a little band of deer ; but we were too eager to reach the settlement, which we momentarily ex* pected to discover, to halt for any other than a passuig shot. In a few hours we reached a large fork, the northern branch of the river, and equal in size to that which we had descended. Together they formed a beautiful stream, 60 to 100 yards wide ; which at first, ignorant of the nature of the country through which that river ran, we took to be the Sacramento. We continued down the right bank of the river, traveling for a whOe over a wooded upland, where we had the de- light to discover tracks of cattle. To the southwest was visible a black column of smoke, which we had frequently noticed in descending, arising from the fires we ha^|^n from the top of the Sierra. From the upland we desflMred into broad groves on the river, consisting of the evergreen, and a new species of white- oak, with a large tufted top, and three to six feet in diameter. Among these was no brush- wood ; and the grassy surface gave to it the appearance of parks in an old settled country. Following the tracks of the horses and cattle, in search of people, we discovered a village of Indians. Some of these had on shirts of civilized man- ufacture, but were otherwise naked, and we could under- stand nothing from them ; they appeared entirely astonished at seeing us. We made an acorn meal at noon, and hurried on ; the valley being gay with flowers, and some of the banks being absolutely g(Sden with the Califomian poppy, {eschescholtzia crocea.) Here the grass was smooth and green, and the groves very open ; the large oaks throwing a broad shade among simny spots. Shortly afterwards we gave a shout at the appearance, on a little blufi', of a neatly-built adobe house, with glass windows. We rode up, but, to our dis- t 426 TEK YEARS IN OREGON. appointment, found only Indians. There was no appear- ance of cultivation, and we could see no cattle; and we supposed the place had been abandoned. We now pressed on more eagerly than ever : the river swept round a large bend to the right ; the hills lowered down entirely ; and, gradually entering a broad valley, we came unexpectedly mto a large Indian village, where the people looked clean, and wore cotton shirts and various other articles of dress. They immediately crowded aroimd us, and we had the in- expressible delight to find one who spoke a little indifferent Spanish, but who at first confounded us by saying there were no whites in the country ; but just then a well dressed Indian caire up, and made his salutations in very well spo- ken Spanish. In answer to our inquiries, he informed us that we were upon the Hio de los Americanos, (the river of the Americans) and that it joined the Sacramento river about ten miles below. Never did a name sound more sweetly ! We felt ourselves among our own coimtrymen ; for the name of American, in these distant parts, is applied to the citizens of the United States. To our eager inquiries he answered, " I am a vaquero (cowherd) in the service of Capt. Sutter, and the people of this rancheria work for him." Ow|^dent satisfaction made him communicative ; and he w^Pon to say that Capt. Sutter was a very rich man, and always glad to see his country people.- We asked for his house. He answered, that it was just over the hill before us ; and offered, if we would wait a moment, to take his horse and conduct us to it. We readily accepted this civil offer. In a short distance we came in sight of the fort ; and, pas- sing on the way the house of a settler on the opposite side, (a Mr. Sinclair,) we forded the river ; and in a few miles were met, a short distance from the fort, by Capt. Sutter himself. He gave us a most frank and cordial reception — conducted us immediately to his residence — and under his hospitable roof we had a night of rest, enjoyment, and re- freshment, which none but ourselves could appreciate. But the party left in the mountains, with Mr. Fitzpatrick, were to be attended to ; and the next morning, supplied with fresh horses and provisions, I hurried off to meet them. — On the second day we met, a few miles below the forks of the Rio de los Americanos ; and a more forlorn and pitiable sight than they presented, cannot well be imagined. They TXN TEARS IN OREGON. 427 were all on foot — each man, Aveak and emaciated, leading a horse or mule as weak and emaciated as themselves. They had experienced great difficulty in descending the mountains, made slippery by rains and melting snows, and many horses fell over precipices, and were killed ; and with some were lost the packs they carried. Among these, was a mule with the plants which we had collected since leaving Fort Hall, along a line of 2,000 miles' travel. Out of 07 horses and mules, with which we commenced crossing the Sierra, only 33 reached the valley of the Sacrimento, and they only in a condition to be led along. Mr. Fitzpatrick and his party, traveling more slowly, had been able to make some little ex- ertion at hunting, and had killed a few deer. The scanty supply was a great relief to them ; for several had been . made sick by the strange and unwholesome food which the preservation of life had compelled them to use. We stopped and encamped as soon as we met ; and a repast of good beef, excellent bread, and delicious salmon, which I had brought along, was their first relief from the sufferings of the Sierra, and their first introduction to the luxuries of the Sacramento. It required all our philosophy and forbearance to prevent plenty from becoming as hurtful to us now, as scarcity had been before. The next day, March 8th, we encamped at the junction of the two rivers, the Sacramento and Americanos; and thus found the whole party in the beautiful valley of the Sacramento. It was a convenient place for the camp ; and, among other things, was within reach of the wood necessa- ry to make the pack-saddles, which we should need on our long journey home, from which we were farther distant now than we were four months before, when from the Dalles of the Columbia we so cheerfully took up the homeward line of march. Captain Sutter emigrated to this country from the west- em part of Missouri in 1838-39, and formed the first settle- ment in the valley, on a large grant of land which he ob- tained from the Mexican Government. He had, at first, some trouble with the Indians ; but, by the occasional ex- ercise of well-timed authority, he has succeeded in convert- ing them into a peaceable and industrious people. The ditches aroimd his extensive wheat-fields ; the plowing, har- rowing, and other agricultural operations, are entirely the 428 TBN TEARS IN OREOOIT. work of ihe&c Indians, for which they receive a very mode- rate compensaiton — ^principally in shirts, blankets, and other articles of clothing. In the same manner, on application to the chief of a village, he readily obtains as many boys and girls as he has any use for. There were at this time a num- ber of girls at the fort, in training for a future woolen factory ; but they were now all busily engaged in constantly water- ing the gardens, which the unfavorable dryness of the sea- son rendered it necessary. The occasional dryness of some seasons, I understood to be the only complaint of the set- tlers in this fertile valley, as it sometimes renders the crops uncertain. Mr. Sutter was about making arrangements to irrigate his lands by means of the Rio ae los Americanos. He had this year sown, and altogether by Indian labor, three hundred fanegas of wheat. A few years since, the neighboiing Russian establishment of Ross, being about to withdraw from the country, sold to him a large number of stock, with agricultural and other stores, with a number pieces of artillery and other munitions of war ; for these, a regular yearly payment is made in f m. The fort is a quadrangular adobe structure, mount ' 2 pieces of artillery, (two of them brass,) and capi „f admitting a garrison of a thousand men ; this, at present, col^ists of forty Indians in uniform — one of whom was al- ways found on duty at the gate. As might naturally be expected, the pieces are not in very good order. The whites in the employment of Capt. Sutter, American, French, and German, amount, perhaps, to thirty men. The inner wall is formed into buildings, comprising the common quarters, with blacksmith and other workshops ; the dwelling house, with a large distillery-house and other buildings, occupying more the centre of the area. It is built upon a pond-like stream, at timea a running creek communicating with the Rio de los Americanos, which enters the Sacramento about two miles below. The latter is here a noble river, about three hundred yards broad, deep and tranquil, wi'i several fathoms of water in the channel, and its banks continuously timbered. There were two ves- sels belonging to Captain Sutter at anchor near the landing — one a large two-masted lighter, and the other a schooner, which was shortly to proceed on a voyage to Fort Vancou- ver for a cargo of goods. IKff YEAKS 19 OREGON. 420 Since his arrival, several other persons, principally Amer- icans, have established themselves in the valley. Mr. Sin- clair, from whom I experienced much kindness during my stay, is settled a few miles distant, on the Rio dc los Amer- icanos. Mr. Coudrois, a gentleman from Germany, has es- tablished himself on Feather river, and is associated yviih Capt. Suiter in agrir tural pursuits. Among other im- provements they are about to introduce the cultivation of rape-seed, {brassica rapus,) which there is every reason to believe is admirably adapted to the climate and soil. The lowest average produce of wheat, as far as we can at pres- ent know, is thirty-five fanegas for one sown ; but, as an in- stance of its fertility, it may be mentioned that Senor Val- ejo obtained, on a piece of ground where sheep had been pastured, 800 fanegas for eight sown. The produce being different in various places, a very correct idea cannot be formed. An impetus was given to the active little population by our arrival, as we were in want of every thing. Mules, horses, and cattle, were to be collected ; the horse-mill was at work day and night, to make sufficient flour ; the black- smith's shop was put in riq[uisition for horse- shoes and bri- dle-bits ; and pack-saddles, ropes, and bridles, and all the other little equipments of the camp were again to be provi- ded. The delay thus occasioned was one of repose and enjoy- ment, which our situation required, and, anxious as we were to resume our homeward journey, was regretted by no one. In the mean time, I had the pleasure to meet with Mr. Chiles, who was residing at a farm on the other side of the river Sacramento, while engaged in the selection of a place for a settlement, for which he had received the necessary grant of land from the Mexican government. It will be remembered that we had parted near the fron- tier of the states, and that he had subsequently descended the valley of Lewis's fork, with a party of ten or twelve men, with the intention of crossing the intermediate mountains to the waters of the Bay of San Francisco. In the execution of this design, and aided by subsequent information, he left the Calumbia at the mouth of Matheur river, and making his way to the head-waters of the Sacramento with a part of his company, traveled down that river to the settlements ■ ■ VHWH T - ■flW "V^- 430 TEN TEARS IS OREOOK. t of Nueva Helvetia. The other party, to whom he had com- mitted his wagons, and mill-irons, and sajnrs, took a course further to the south, and the wagons and their contents were lost. On the 22d we made a preparatory move, and encamped near the settlement of Mr. Sinclair, on the left bank of the Rio de los Americanos. I had discharged five of the party ; Neal, the blacksmith, (an excellent workman, and an unmar- ried man, who had done his duty faithfully, and had been of very great servi'^e to me,) desired to remain, as strong in- ducements were offered here to mechanics. Although at considerable Inconvenience +0 myself, his g-od conduct induced me to comply with his requoc*. ; and I obtained for him from Capt. Sutter, a p ;esent compensation of two dollars and a half per diem, with a promise that it should be increased to five, if he proved as good a workman as had been represented. He was more particularly an ag- ricultural blacksmith. The other men were