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By R. p. FORSTER, Esq. Illmtrated and Embellished with correct Maps, and beautiful EiigraviTigs. SECOND EDITION. Newcastle upon Tyne : PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY MACKENZIE AND DENT, ST. Nicholas's CHURCH-YARa 181T. O'Ut* ! ^^ i / / L / 0^ ~> (/■ ^ I » PREFACE. ttHB THE science which treats of human nature as diversified in appearances and conditions, among the various countries of the world, is eminently important both in its origin and tendency. It arises from an affectionate curiosity respecting our species, and it prompts to enterprizes the most noble and beneficial. In this sublime feelings man recognizes the dignity of his nature, and the means of consummating his greatest glory — for the most glorious actions are likewise the most useful j and nothing contributes so materially to human happiness, as those enquiries and pursuits that extend the boundaries of knowledge, and thus unite the far separated inhabitants of the earth, by a reciprocal exchange of the blessings of different climates. 2(>r,7.t r 4 Iv the narratives of the adventurous voyager and the curious traveller, the Header finds novelty combined with information. He enters into their views with a relish proportioned to the dangers they have encountered, or the diligence and resoul- tion they have displayed. He attends a Columbus, a Cook, a Park, or a Buuce, through their noble and hazardous enterprizes, and reaps the benefit of the acquisition and the pleasure of the des- cription, without the danger and the toil. This study is also incomparably more fascinating than the extravagant fictions of certain novels, which are made the vehicle for spreading the contagion of erroneous sentiments, and vicious principles. The perusal of Voyages and Tr avels may, therefore, be recommended to Youth with peculiar propriety, as the safest and most pleasant mode of expanding the mind and humanizing the heart. Several writers of great celebrity have published splendid and voluminous collections of voyages and travels. But the expence attending the purchase of these extensive works, and the dry, stale digressions with which they are frequently interlarded, render them unfit for general use ; and indicate the propriety and utility of such a selec- tion, as might amuse without fatiguing, and convey the most requisite information, at a price convenient even to the humblest class of society. rager ^elty their ngers ?soul- ^IBUS, noble enefit i des- This than ch are on of The refore, priety, mding have ons of inding le dry, [uently ; and selec- ;onvey renient 1^ i I To accomplish this object the Editor proposes to give a brief, connected, and lively account of the most celebrated and interesting voyages, tra- vels, shipwrecks, and adventures, arranged in such chronological and geographical order, as to mark the Progress of Discovery, and exhibit a complete Display of the World. He will also divest the original narratives as far as possible of technical phrases and cumbrous minutia;, carefully preserving every circumstance that can entertain the fancy or enlarge the understanding; nor shall any allusion appear offensive to youthful innocence or female delicacy. This work may, therefore, be confidently prescribed to the Teachers of Youth, and the Heads of Families, as one of the best and most agreeable inmates they can possess. The present time has been so eminently dis- tinguished by a successful exhibition of the daring spirit of discovery, as to ensure a favourable recep- tion to a collection like the following ; as there can be no doubt, that the interest afforded by scientific expeditions, or important discoveries, is in a great measure proportioned to the nearness to our own times in which they are executed. It is indeed consolatory to reflect, that though the civilized world has long been engaged in wars, the most extensive and terrible ever recorded, yet the boun- daries of science, and the researches of knowledge. have been extended with unparalleled success and rapidity. i' The Engravings which embellish this interest- ing work will, it is hoped, in point of execution, claim general approbation; and the Maps, which are executed in the manner of Arrowsmith, will be found more beautiful and accurate than any that have appeared in similar publications. In short» no expence has been spared, nor will any labour be avoided, to render the work worthy the patron- age of the public. COLLECTION OP VOYAGES AND TRAVELS, FROM THE DlSCOFERl OF AMERICA TO THE PRESENT TIME. THE FIRST VOYAGE OF COLUMBUS. ^HE discovery of the mariner's compass has been productive of greater events, than any other recorded in the annals of the human race. It opened to them a grand and ample field to display their talents, their enterprize, and courage. It in* vested them with the dominion both of the sea and the earth, by facilitating the communication between the most distant parts. Navigators gradually abandoned their ancient, timid, and lingering, course along the shore, ventured boldly into the ocean, and relying on this new guide could steer in the darkest nights, and under the most cloudy sky, with a secu- rity and precision hitherto unknown. But this beneficial invention did not produce its full effect instantaneously. Sailors, unaccustomed to quit sight of land, durst not launch at once and commit themselves to unknown seas. Accordingly, near half a century elapsed before navi- gators ventured to proceed much beyond the ancient limits of navigation; The first appearance of a bolder spirit may be >r h' i i '1i I! 8 THE FIRST VOYAGE dated from the voyages of the Spaniards to the Canary or Fortunate islands. The glory, however, of leading the way in this new course of enterprize and discovery was reserved for Portugal, one of tlie smallest and least powerful of the European kingdoms. The exploits of the Portuguese opened a new sphere to navigation, and roused such a spirit of curio- sity and enterprise as led to the discovery of the Nkw World. It was in this school that the immortal discoverer of America was trained. The history of the illustrious name with which we commence our work, is so connected with his voyages and discoveries, that it is best delineated from them. Of the parentage and early education of Columbus, little is authentically known. He was born at Genoa in 1442; and will ever be one of the most distinguished honours of that state. His father, it is supposed, was a wool-comber, and that himself was at first destined for the same occupation. Be that as it may, it appears that he studied mathematics with assiduity and success at the university of Pavia ; j;nd this study, afterwards carried into action, by the practice of navigation, led him to form juster notions of the figure of the earth, than any of his contempo-* raries, and to extend the boundaries of knowledge and of the world. The correct idea this great mind had conceived of the terra- queous globe, gave birth to his design ; but the imperfection of all the maps then to be consulted, made him mistake the object. He proposed to find a nearer passage to the Indies and China, by sailing westward. Venice and Genoa, at that time, engros- sed almost the whole trade of Europe ; and, in consequence, a rivalry and jealousy, which had given rise to frequent wars, always existed between them. Venice, however, maintained her superiority: she had drawn to herself nearly the collected commerce of the East, which had been hitherto carried on by way of Egypt and the Red sea. As Columbus was a native of the rival state, it is probable that a spirit of patriotism first animated his views of discovering a more direct passage to India ; and, by that means, of trans- ferring this lucrative trade to his own eountry. But timid w ";« ■ OF COLUMBUS. 9 caution, reinforced by incretlulity, deprived Grenoa of the ad- vantages intended for her. ('olunibus liaving disthjirgod the duty of a good citizen, by nudving in vain his first proposal of prosecuting discovenes for liie benefit of his country, felt him- self free from the oMigation which nature had imposed on his services. His next appUcation was to the court of France, but with no better success. Henry VII. then filled the throne of England; and to tliat prince Columbus dispatched his brother Bartliolomew on the same business. This ill-fated adventurer was taken and plundered by pirates on his passage, and, on his arrival in London, was reduced to such extreme poverty, that he could not make a sufficiently decent appearance to demand an audience of the king. But persevering diligence seems to have been characteristic of this family. Bartholomew by drawing and selling maps and charts, soon acquired some reputation ; and having equipped him: .. If in a proper style for gaining access to the English sovcreigi), obtained this honour in 1484« ; and met with such encouragement, that he actually entered into an agreement with Henry on behalf of his brother, several years uc^fore Christopher had finally secured a patron. It is well known, however, that this country lost the honour that was put within its grasp. While Bartholomew was soliciting the English court, the great projector, his brother, had made a personal application to the government of Portugal, where he experienced nothing but ridicule and contempt. In superior minds there is a finnness that rises above ordinary disappointments, and in all projectors there is an enthusiasm, absolutely necessary to give efficacy to their schemes. Columbus was not to be depressed. He now repaired to Castile, and offered his services to Ferdinand and Isabella. For eight days he submitted to delays, to insult^ and to the presumption of ignorance, ti71 his patience was at last exhausted ; and he had actually taken leave of Castile, in order to proceed to England in quest of his brother, with whose fortune he was totally unacquainted. He was, however, unexpectedly recalled by the queen, Isabella, at the earnest importunity of her confessor ; and her majesty was now pre- VoL. I. ' B r^ \ 10 THE FIRST VOYAGE vailed on to accede to the demand of Columbus, and to furnish him with money for his expedition. The patient projector was raised to the rank of admiral ; and it was stipulated that all civil employments, in the islands and continent to be discovered, should be wholly at his dispo- sal ; that he should nominate judges in Spain for India affairs; and over and above the salaries and perquisites of admiral, viceroy, and governor, he should have a certain share in the profits of the foreign trade and the domestic imports from his discoveries. These preliminaries being adjusted, he repaired to Palos, to superintend the equipment of the little fleet entrusted to his command. This consisted of three small vessels, the Santa Marittf carrying the admiral's flag; the Pinta, commanded by Martin Alonzo Piiizon ; and the Nigna, captain Vincent Yanez Pinzoii, the brother ol* the former, both natives of Palos. The fleet being furnished with provisions and necessaries, and manned with 97 men, set sail, on Saturday, the 3d of August, 1492; and,, humble as the strength and equipment of this squadrcm would appear in modern times, it has led to more important events than any expedition ever undertaken* by man j and was pregnant with the fate of both worlds. Next morning the rudder of the Pinta broke loose, which disaster was supposed to have arisen from some who were averse to the voyage ; but Pinzon, the captain, being an able seaman, soon repaired the damage, and they proceeded on their voyage tili Tuesday, wlicn the rudder again gave way, and forced the admiraV a second time to lie by. This accident, the supersti< tious and the fearful inter])reted as an ill omen; but Columbus rightly observed^ that no omen could be evil where men were engaged in a good design. With some difficulty they steered the disabled ship as far as the Canaries, which they discovered early on Thursday morning. Columbus refltted them, how- ever, to the best of his power, and having supplied himself with fresh provisions, he took his departure for Gomera, one of the most westerly of the Canary islands, on tlie 6th of S<^tember.. OF COLUMBUS. 11 cessaries. lera, one Here the voyage of discovery may properly be said to begin; for Columbus holding his course due west, left immediately the usual track of navigation, and stretched into unfrequented and unknown seas. The first day, as it was tery calm, he made but little way ; but on the second, he lost sight of the Canaries ; and many of the sailors, dejected already and dis- mayed, when they contemplated the boldness of the under- taking, began to beat their breasts, and to shed tears, as if they were never more to behold land. Columbus comforted them with assurances of success, and the prospect of vast wealth, in those opulent regions whether he was conducting them. This early discovery of the spirit of his followers taught Columbus, that he must prepare to struggle, not only with the unavoid- able difficulties which might be expected from the nature of his undertaking, but with such as were Hkely to arise from the ignorance and timidity of the people under his command; and he perceived, that the art of governing the minds of men would be no less requisite for accomplishing the discoveries which he had in view, than naval skill and undaunted courage. Happily for himself, and for the country by which he was employed, he joined to the ardent temper and inventive genius of a projector, virtues of another species, which are rarely united with them. He possessed a thorough knowledge of mankind, an insinuating address, a patient perseverance in executing any plan, the perfect government of his own pas- sions, and the talent of acquiring an ascendant over those of other men. All these qualities, which formed hira for com- mand, were accompanied with that superior knowledge of his profession, which begets i;onfidence in times of difficulty and danger. To unskilful Spanish sailors, accustomed only to coasting voyages in the Mediterranean, the maritime science of Columbus, the fruit of thirty years experience, improved by an acquaintance with all the inventions of the Portuguese, appeared immense. As s(X)n as they put to sea, h£ regulated every thing by his sole authority ; he superintended the exe- cution of every order ; and allowing himself only a few hours for sleep, he was at all other times on dcrk. As his cours« lay through seas which had not ))een visited, the sounding-line, ( II 12 THE FIRST VOYAGE or instruments for observation, were continually in his hands. After the example of the Portuguese discoverers, he attended to the motion of tides and currents, watched the flight of birds, the appearance of fishes, of sea-weeds, and of every thing that floated on the waves, and entered every occurrence, with a mmute exactness, in the journal which he kept. As the length of the voyage could not fail of alarming sailors habitu- ated only to short excursions, Columbus endeavoured to frm- ceal from them the real progress which they made. With this view, though they ru". 18 leagues on the second day after they left Gomera, he gave out that they had only advanced fifteen, and he uniformly employed the same artifice of rec- koning short during the whole voyage By the 14th of Sep- tember, the whole fleet was above 200 leagues to the west of the Canary isles, at a greater distance from land than anv Spa- niard had been before that time. There they were struck with an apjiearance no less astonishing than new. They observed that the magnetic needle, in their compasses, did not point exactly to the polar star, but varied towards the west ; and as they proceeded, this variation increased. This appearance, which is now familiar, though it still remains one of the mys- teries of nature, into the cause of which the sagacity of man hath not been able to penetrate, filled the companions of Columbus with terror. They were now in a boundless and imknown ocean, far from the usual course of navigation ; nature itself seemed to be altered, and the only guide which they had left was about to fail them. Columbus, with no less quickness than ingenuity, invented a reason for this appearance, which, though it did not satisfy himself, seemed so plausible to them, that it dispelled their fears, or silenced their murmurs. He still continued to steer due west, nearly in the same latitude with the Canary islands. In this course he came within the sphere of the trade-wind, which blows invariably from cast to west, between the tropics and a few degrees be- yond them. He advanced before this steady gale, with such tmiform rapidity, that it was seldom necessary to sliifl a sail. When about 400 leagues to the west of the Canaries, he found the sea so covered with weeds, that it resembled a meadow of OF COLUMBUS. 13 vast extent, and in some places they were so thick, as to retard the motion of the vessels. This strange appearance occasioned new alarm and disquiet. The sailors imagined that they were now arrived at the utmost boundary of the navigable ocean ; that these floating weeds would obstruct their further progress, and concealed dangerous rocks, or some large tract of land, which had sunk, they kne^v not how, in that place. Columbus endeavoured to persuade them, that what had alarmed, ought rather to have encouraged them, and was to be considered as a sign of approaching land. At the same time, a brisk gale arose, and carried them forward. Several birds were seen hovering about the ship, and directed their course towards tlie west. The desponding crew resumed some degree of spirit, and began to entei-tain fresh hopes. Upon the 1st of October they were, according to the admi- ral's reckoning, 770 leagues to the west of the Canaries ; but lest his men should be intimidated by the prodigious length of the navigation, he gave out that they had proceeded only 584> leagues ; and, fortunately for Columbus, neither his own pilot, nor those of the other ships, bad skill sufRcient to cor- rect this error, and discover this deceit. They had now been about three weeks at sea; they had proceeded far beyond what former navigators had attempted or deemed possible ; all their prognostics of discovery, drawn from the flight of birds and other circumstances, had proved fallacious; the appearances of land, with which their own credulity or the artifice of their commander had from time to time flattered and amused them, had been altogether illusive, and their prospect of success seemed now to be as distant as ever. These rieflections occur- red often to men i^ho liad no other object or occupation, than to reason and discourse concerning the intention and circum- stances of their expedition. They m&de impressions, at first, upon the ignorant and timid, and extending, by degrees, to 6uch as were better informed or more resolute, the contagion spread at length from ship to ship. From secret whispers or murmurings, they proceeded to open cabals and public compl^nts. They taxed their sovereign with inconsiderate credulity, in paying such regard to the vain promises and rash J 11 ■1 I > il! :h 1 1 ^!' t' u THE FIRST VOYAGE conjectures of an indigent foreigner, as to hazard the lives of so many of her own sii.j»jects, in prosecuting a chimerical scheme. They affirmed that they had done their duty by venturing so far in an unknown and hopeless course, and could incur no blame, for refusing to follow, any longer, a desperate adventurer to certain destruction. They contended, that it was necessary to think of returning to Spain, while their crazy vessels were still in condition to keep the sea, but expressed their fears that the attempt would prove vain, as the wind which had hitherto been so favourable to their course, must render it impossible to sail in the opposite direction. All agreed that Columbus should be compelled by force to adopt a measure on which their common safety depended. Some of the more audacious proposed, as the more expeditious and certain method for getting rid at once of his remonstrances, to throw him into the sea, being persuaded that, upon their re- turn to Spain, the death of an unsuoi;essful projector would excite little concern, and be inquired into with no curiosity. Columbus was fully sensible of his perilous situation. He had observed with great uneasiness, the fatal operations, of ig- norance and of fear in producing disaffection among his crew, and saw that it was now ready to burst out into open mutiny. He retained, however, perfect presence of mind. He affected to seem ignorant of their machinations. Notwitlistanding the a^tation and solicitude of his own mind, he appeared with a cheerful countenance, like a man satisfied with the progress he had made, and confident of success. Sometimes he em- ployed all the arts of insinuation to sooth his men. Sometimes he endeavoured to work upon their ambition and avarice, by magnificent descriptions of the fame and wealth, which they were about to acquire. On other occasions, he assumed a tone of authority, and threatened them with verigeance from their sovereign, if, by their dastardly behaviour, they should defeat thir. noble effort to promote the glory of God, and to exalt even the Spanish name above that of every other nation. Even with seditious sailors, the words of a man whom they had been accustomed to reverence, were weighty and persua- sive, and not only restrained them from those vioient excesses, >.- <,•' OF COLUMBUS. 18 which they meditated, but prevailed with them to accompany their admiral for some time longer. As they proceeded, the indications of approaching land seemed to be more certain, and excited hope in proportion. The birds began to appear in flocks, making towards the south-west. Columbus, in imitation of the Portuguese navi- gators, who had been guided, in several of their discoveries, by the motion of birds, altered their course from due west towards that quarter whether they pointed their flight. But, after holding on for several days in this new direction, without any better success than formerly, having seen no object, during thirty days, but the sea and the sky, the hopes of his compa^ iiions subsided fister than they had risen ; their fears revived with additional brce ; impatience, rage, and despair, appeared in every countenance. All sense of subordination was lost; the officers, who had hitherto concurred with Columbus in opinion, and supported his authority, now took part with the private men ; they assembled tumultuously on the deck, ex- postulated with their commander, mingled threats with their expostulations, and required him instantly to tack about and to return to Europe. Columbus perceived that it would be of no avail to have recourse to any of his former arts, which having been tried so often, had lost their fflPect ; and that it was impossible to rekindle any zeal for the success of the expe- dition among men, in whose breasts fear had extinguished every generous sentiment. He saw that it was no less vain to think of employing either gentle or severe measures to quell a mutiny so general and so violent. It was necessary, on all these accounts, to sooth passions which he could no longer command, and to give way to a torrent too impetuous to be checked. He promised solemnly to his men that he would comply with their request, provided they would accom- pany him, and obey his commands for three days longer, and if, during that time, land was not discovered, he would then abandon the enterprize and direct his course towards Spain. Enraged as the sailors were, and impatient to turn their faces again towards their native country, this proposition did not appear to them unreasonable. Nor did Columbus hazard mm Hi THE FIRST VOYAGE much in confiiiing himself to a term so short. The presages of discovering land were now so numerous and promising, that he deemed them infallible. For some days the sounding- line reached the bottom, and tiie soil which it brought up indicated land to be at no great distance. The flocks of birds increased, and were composed not only of sea-fowl, but of such land birds as could not be supposed to fly far from the shore. The crew of the Pinta observed a cane floating, which seemed to have been newly cut, and likewise a piece of timber arliflcially carved. The sailors aboard the Nigna took up the branch of a tree with red berries, perfectly fresh. The clouds around the setting-sun assumed a new appearance ; the air was more mild and warm, and, during night, the wind became unequal and variable. From all these symptoms, Columbus, was so confident of being near land, that on the evening of the 11th of October, after public prayers for suc- cess, he ordered the sails to be furled, and the ships to lie^to, keeping strict watch, lest they should be driven ashore in the night. During this interval of success and expectation, no man shut his eyes, ail kept upon deck, gazing intensely towards that quarter where they expected to discover the land, which had been so long the object of their wishes. About two hours before midnight, Columbus standing on the forecastle, observed a light at a distance, and privately pointed it out to Pedro Guttierez, a page of the queen's ward*, robe. Guttierez perceived it, and calling to Salcedo, comp- troller of the fleet, all three saw it in motion, as if it were carried from place to place. A Uttle after midnight the joyful sound of land, land, was heard from the Pinta, which kept always ahead of the other ships. But, having been so often deceived by fallacious appearances, every man was become slow of belief, and waited, in all the anguish of uncertainty and impatience, for the return of day. As soon as morning dawned (Friday, October 12), all doubts and fears were dis- pelled. From every ship an island was seen two leagues to the north, whose flat and verdant fields, well stored with wood, and watered with many rivulets, presented the aspect of a delightful country. The crew of the Pinta instantly be- OF COLUMBUS. 17 ^an the Te Deum^ as a hymn of tlianksgiving to God, and were joified by those, of the other ships, with tears of joy and transports of congratulation. This office of gratitude to Heaven was followed by an act of justice to their commander. They threw themselves at the feet of Columbus, with feelings of self-condemnation mingldd with reverence. They implored him to pardon their ignorance, incredulity, and insolence, which had create^jpfiim so much unnecessary disquiet, and had so often obstructed the prosecution of his well concerted plan ; and passing, in the warmth of their admiration, from one extreme to another, they now pronounced the man, whom they had so lately reviled and threatened, to be inspired by Heaven with sagacity and fortitude more than human, in (Jider to accomplish a design so far beyond the ideas and conception of all former ages. ^ As soon as the sun arose, all their Iwats were manned and armed. They rowed towards the island with their colours displayed, with warlike music, and other martial pomp. As they approached the coast, they saw it covered with a multi- tude of people, whom the novelty of the spectacle had drawn together, whose attitudes and gestures expressed wonder and astonishment at the strange objects which presented themselves to their view. Columbus was the first European who set his foot in the new world which he had discovered. He landed in a rich dress, and with a naked sword In his hand. His men followed and, kneeling down, they all kissed the ground which they had so long desired to see. They next erected a crucifix, and prostrating themselves before it, returned thanks to God for conducting their voyage to such a happy issue. They then took solemn possession of the country for the crown of Castile and Leon, with all the formalities which the Portu- guese were accustomed to observe in acts of this kind, in their new discoveries. The Spaniards, while thus employed, were surrounded by many of the natives, who gazed, in silent admiration, upon actions which they could not comprehend, and of which they did not foresee the consequences. The dress of the Spaniards, the whiteness of their skins, their beards, their arms, appeared Vol. I. ,C f^ li ^! VM ' i ■ 18 THE FIRST VOYAGE strange and surprizing. The vast machines in which they had traversed tlie ocean, that seemed to move upon the waters with wings, and uttered a dreadful sound resembling thunder, accompanied with lightning and smoke, struck them with such terror, that they began to respect their new guests as a supe- rior order of beings, and concluded that they were children of the sun, who had descciuled to visit the earth. The Europeans were hardly less amazed at the scene now before them. Every herb, and shrub, and tree, was different from those which flourished in Europe. The soil seemed to be rich, but bore few marks of cultivation. The climate, even to the Spaniards, felt warm, though extremely delightful. The inhabitants appeared in the simple innocence of nature, entirely naked. Their black hair, long and uncurled, floated upon their shoulders, or was bound in tresses round their heads. They had no beards, and every part of their bodies was perfectly smooth. Their complexion was of a dusky cop- per colour, their features singular, rather than disagreeable, their aspect gentle and timid. Though not tall, they were well shaped, and active. Their faces, and several parts of their body, were fantastically painted with glaring colours. They were shy at first through fear, but soon became familiar with the Spaniards, and with transports of joy received from them hawks-bells, glass beads, or other baubles, in return for which they gave such provisions as they had, and some cotton yarn, the only commodity of value that they could produce. Towards evening, Columbus returned to his ship, accompa- nied with many of the islanders in their boats, which they called canoeSf and though rudely formed out of the trunk of a single tree, they rowed them with surprizing dexterity. Thus, in the first interview between the inhabitants of the old and new worlds, every thing was conducted amicably, and to their mutual satisfaction. The former, enlightened and ambitious, formed already vast ideas with respect to the advantages which they might derive from the re^ons that began to open to their view. The latter, simple and undiscerning, had no foresight of the calamities and desolation which were approach- ing their country. OF COLUMBUS. 19 ;h they had the waters ng thunder, n with such s as a supe- children of 5 scene now vas different 1 seemed to Umatc, even J delightful. 2 of nature, rled, floated round their their bodies I dusky cop- iisagreeable, 1, they were ;ral parts of •ing colours, ame familiar "ceived from in return for some cotton lid produce, p, accompa- which they e trunk of a rity. Thus, the old and and to their d ambitious, itages which to open to ig, had no re approach- Columbus, who now assumed the title and authority of admiral and viceroy, called the island which he had discovered San Salvador. It is better known by the name of Guana- hani, which the natives gave to it, and is one of that large cluster of islands called the Lucaya or Bahama isles. It is situated about 3,000 miles to the west of Gomera, from which the squadron took its departure, and only four degress to the south of it; so little had Columbus deviated from the westerly course, which he had chosen as the most proper. Columbus employed the next day in visiting the coasts of the island ; and from the universal poverty of the inhabitants, he perceived that this was not the rich country for which he sought. But, conformably to his theory concerning the dis- covery of those regions of Asia, which stretched towards the east, he concluded that San Salvador was one of the isles which geographers described as situated in the great ocean adjacent to India. Having observed, that most of the people whom he had seen wore small plates of gold, by way of orna- ment, in their nostrils, he eagerly inquired where they got that precious metal. They pointed towards the south, and made him comprehend by signs, that gold abounded in coun- tries situated in that quarter. Thither he immediately deter- mined to direct his course, in full confidence o£ finding there those opulent regions which had been the object of his voyage, and would he a recompence for all his toils and dangers. He took along with him seven of the natives of San Salvador, that, by acquiring the Spanish language, they might serve as guides and interpreters ; and those innocent people considered it as a mark of distinction when they were selected to accom- pany him. He saw several islands, and touched at three of the largest, on which he bestowed the names of St. Mary of the Concep- tion, Fernandina, and Isabella. But as their soil, produc- tions, and inhabitants, nearly resembled those of San Salvador, he made no stay in any of them. He enquired every where for gold, and the signs that were uniformly made by way of an- swer, confirmed him in the opinion that it was brought from tlie south. Ho followed that course, and soon discovered a so THE FIRST VOYAGE ff I i country which appeared very extensive, not perfectly level, like those which he had already visited, but so diversified with rising grounds, hills, rivers, woods, and plains, that he was uncertain whether it might prove an island, or part of the continent. The natives of San Salvador, whom he had on Ixiard, called it Cuba; Columbus gave it the name of Juanna. He entered the mcvath of a large river, with his squadron, and all the inhabitt.nts fled to the mountains as he approached the shore. Hut as he resolved to careen his ships in that place, he sent some Spaniards, together with one of the people of San Salvador, to view the interior part of the country. They, having advanced above GO miles from the shore, reported upon their return, that the soil was richer and more cultivated than any they had hitherto discovered; that, besides many scutl ••ed cottages, they had found one village, containing above a thou- sand inhabitants ; that the people, though naked, seemed to be more intelligent than those of San Salvador, but had treated them with the same respectful attention, kissing their feet, and honouring them as sacred beings allied to Hca^vcn ; that they had given them to eat a certain root, the taste of which resem- bled roasted chesnuts, and likewise a singular species of corn called maize, which, either when I'oasted whole or ground into, meal, was abundantly palatable ; that there seemed to be no four-footed animals in the country, but a species of dogs, which could not bark, and a creature resembling a rabbit, but of a much smaller size ; that they had observed some orna- ments of gold among the people, but of no grejit value. These messengers had prevailed with some of the natives to accompany them, who informed Columbus, that the gold of which they made their ornaments was found in Cuhanacan. By this word they meant the middle or inland part of Cuba ; but Columbus, being ignorant of their language, as well as unaccustomed to their pronunciation, and his thoughts run- ning continually upon his own theory concerning the discovery of the East Indies, he was led, by the resemblance of sound, to suppose that they spoke of the Great Khan, and imagined that the opulent kingdom of Catliay, described by Marco Polo, was not verv remote. This induced him to employ OF COLUMIUJS. n fectly level, crsified with that he was part of the he had on B of Juanna. is squadron, I approached n that place, he people of itry. They, iported upon tivated than uiy scatt red bove a thou- 1, seemed to had treated eir feet, and 1 ; that they vhich rcsem- cics of corn ground into, ed to be no cs of dogs, rabbit, but some orna- /aluc. le natives to the gold of Cubanacan. rt of Cuba ; ?, as well as ouffhts run- le discovery of sound, id imagined by Marco to employ some time in viewing the couiitry. He visited almost every harbour from Porto del Principe, on the north coast of Cuba, to the eastern extremity of the island : but though delighted with the beauty of the scenes, which every way presented themselves, and amazed at the luxuriant fertility of the soil, both which, from their novelty, made n more lively impression upon his imagination, he did not find gold in such quantity as was sufficient to satisfy either the avarice of his followers, or the expectations of the court to which he was to return. The people of the coimtry, as much astonished at his ejiger- ness in quest of gold, as the Europeans were at their ignorance and simplicity, pointed towards the east, where an island which they called Haijti was situated, in which that metal was more abundant than among them. Columbus ordered his squadron to bend its course thither ; but Martin Alonzo Pinzon, impatient to be the first who should take possession of the treasures which this country Avas supposed to contain, quitted his companions, regardless of all the admirafs signals to slacken sail until they should come up with him. Columbus, retarded by contrary winds, did not reach Hayti till the 6th of December. He called the port where he first touched St. Nicholas, and the island itself Espagnola, in ho- nour of the kingdom by which he was employed ; and it is the only country, of those he had yet discovered, which has re- tained the name that he gave it. As he could neither meet with the Pinta, nor have any intercourse with the inhabitants, who fled in great consternation towards the woods, he soon quitted St. Nicholas, and sailing along the northern coast of the island, he entered another harbour which he called Con- ception. Here he was more fortunate ; his people overtook a woman who was flying from them, and after treating her with great gentleness, dismissed her with a present of such toys as they knew were most valuable in those regions. The descrip- tion which she gave to her countrymen of the humanity and wonderful qualities of the strangers ; their admiration of the trinkets, which she shewed with exultation ; and their eager- ness to participate of the same favours ; removed all their fears, and induced many of them to repair to the harbour. ■1 jllli ^ jj M It 1* 1 1: mi 22 THE FIRST VOYAGE The strange objects which they beheld, and the baubles whicli Columbus bestowed upon them, amply gratified their curiosity and their wislies. They nearly resembled the people of Guanahana and Cuba. They were naked like them, igno- rant, and simple ; and seemed to be equally unacquainted with all the arts which appear most necessary in polished socie- ties : but they were gentle, credulous, and timid, to a degree which rendered it easy to acquire the ascendant over them, especially as their excessive admiration led them into the same error with the people of the other islands, in believing the Spaniards to be more than mortals, and descended immediately from Heaven. They possessed gold in greater abundance than their neighbours, which they readily exchanged for bells, beads, or pins ; and in this unequal traffic both parties w ere highly pleased, each considering themselves as gainers by the transaction. Here Columbus was visited by a prince or cacique of the country. He appeared with all the pomp known among a simple people, being carried in a sort of palanquin upon the shoulders of four men, and attended by many of his subjects, who served him with great respect. His deportment was grave and stately, very reserved towards his own people, but with Columbus and the Spaniards extremely courteous. He gave the admiral some thin plates of gold, and a girdle of curious workmanship, receiving in return presents of small value, but highly acceptable to him. Columbus, still intent on discovering the mines which yielded gold, continued to interrogate all the natives with whom he hed any intercourse concerning their situation. They concur- red in pointing out a mountainous countiy, which they called Cibao, at some distance from the sea, and farther towards the east. Struck with this sound, which appeared to him the same with Cipango, the name by which Marco Polo, and other travellers to the east, distinguished the island of Japan, he no longer doubted with respect to the vicinity of the coun- tries which he had discovered to the remote parts of Asia ; and, in full expectation of reaching soon those regions which had been the object cf his voyage, he directed his course to- wards the east. He put into a commodious harbour, which OF COLUMBUS. Sd lie calletl St. Tftomas, and found that district to \\e under the government of a powerful caziquc, Guacanahariy wlio, at he afterwards learned, was one of the five sovereigns among whom the whole island was divided. He iuj mediately sent messen- gers to Columbus, who, in his name, delivered to him the present of a mask curiously fashioned, with the ears, nose, and mouth of beaten gold, and invited him to the place of his residence, near the harbour now called Cape FrancoUf some leagues towards the east. Columbus dispatched some of his officers to visit this prince, who, as he behaved himself with greater dignity, seemed to claim more attention. They re- turned with such favourable accounts, both of the country and of the people, as made Columbus impatient for that interview with Guacanahari to which he had been invited. He sailed for this purpose from St. Thomas, on the S4tli of December, with a fair wind, and the sea perfectly calm ; and as, amidst the multiplicity of his occupations, he had not shut his eyes for two days, he retired at midnight, in order to take some repose, having committed the helm to the pilot, with strict injunctions not to quit it for a moment. The pilot, dreading no danger, carelessly left the helm to an unexperi- enced cabin-boy, and the ship, carried away by a current, was dashed against a rock. The violence of the shock awaken- ed Columbus. He ran up to the deck. There, all was confusion and despair. He alone retained presence of mind. He ordered some of the sailors to take a boat, and carry out an anchor astern ; but, instead of obeying, they made oiF towards the Nigna, which was about half a league distant. He then commanded the masts to be cut down, in order to lighten the ship ; but all his endeavours were too late ; the vessel opened near the keel, and filled so fast with water that its loss was inevitable. The smoothness of the sea, and the timely assistance of boats from the Nigna, enabled the crew to save their lives. As soon as the islanders heard of this dis- aster, they crowded to the shore, with their prince Guacana- hari at their head. Instead of taking advantage of the distress in which they beheld the Spaniards, to attempt any thing to their detriment, they lamented their misfortune with tears of in Ti ( I' if, ■ ! I r-f 24i THE FIRST VOYAGE sincere condolence. Not satisfied with this unavailing expres* sion of their sympathy, they put to sea a niimher of canoes, and, under the direction of the Spaniards, assisted in saving whatever could be got out of the wreck ; and by the united Ialx)ur of so many hands, almost every thing of value was car- ried ashore. As fast as the goods were landed Guacanahari in person took charge of ihem. By his orders they were all deposited in one place, anil armed centinels were posted, who kept the multitude at a distance, in order to prevent them not only from embezzling, but from inspecting too curiously what belonged to their guests. Next morning this prince visited Columbus, who was now on Iward the Nigna, and endea- voured to console him for his loss, by offering all that he jx)ssessed to n pair it. The manner of the inhabitants and the productions of the country were so agreeable to the admiral, that he resolved to settle a colony here ; which by maintaining a friendly inter- course with the Indians, and learning their language, might be of future benefit to the nation he served. To pursue this resolution, he was encouraged by the voluntary offers of some of his men who fell into his views, and the cazique was not a little pleased at the prospect of having such valuable allies to protect him from the invasions of the Caribbee Indians, a race of inhuman cannibals, who frequently molested his shores. The sagacity of Columbus knew how to give importance to this idea : he oi'dereil a great gun to be fired against the side of the wri'ck ; and the Indians seeing the bullet penetrate the sides, and then fall into the sea, regarded their guests with the saniL" awe, and the bd'ef that they possessed the thunder of heaven. A to\ver was now constructed IVom the timber of the wreck, seemingly in compliance with the cazique''s desire; and having furnished it with provisions, ammunition, and arms, he left a garrison of 86* men, under the joint command of three of liis most trusty dependants, whom he warmly recommended to the favour and protection of the king and his people. This business settled, he caused a few huts to be erected, and nanied the place Nativity, He then turned his thoughts OF COLUMBUS. S5 ng express, of canoes, i in saving the united je was car- uacanahari ?y were all )sted, who it them not ously what nee visited uid endea- ill that he ions of the resolved to ndly inter- age, might pursue this ers of some e was not a jle allies to Indians, a his shores, lortance to list the side jnetrate the quests with he thunder the wreck, and having s, he left a hree of his imended to e. be erected, lis thoughts i3 towards ^pain, lest some misfortune befalUng the only ship he had left, he might for ever be prevented from publishing the discoveries he had made. Accordingly, having left the most benevolent and Judicious directions for the regulation of the colony"'s conduct, he set sail from the port of Nativity on Fri- day the 4th of January, 1493, at sun-rising; and made such observaticHis as might enable him to distinguish the harbour in any future expedition. The wind being adverse, he made but little way to the eastwm'd. On Sunday morning he fell in with the Pinta, captain Martin Alonzo Pinzon, who, as we have previousl" mentioned^ Iiad deserted the admiral.— Pinzon going on board, strove to excuse his desertion by pre- tending that he had lost sight of his consorts during the night. Columbus was sensible of the fallacy of his pretences; but rat'ier than prejudice the common cause, disguised his senti- ments, and listened to the excuses that were made. Pinzon, it seems, had sailed t > a river 15 leagues eastward of the port of Nativity, where he had spent 16 days in barter- ing for gold with the natives, and in this traffic he had been pretty succesrful; but having distributed one half among his crew, and retained the other himself, he wished to conceal the amount. He afterwards anchored near a conical hill, which they called Mtmtc Christo, about 18 leagues east of Caoe Santo; but the weather impeding his farther progress^ he went up a river in his boat, where he discovered gold-dust in the sand, and from hence gave it the appellation of the Gold-river. On the 18th of January, Columbus being near Cape Enaniorado, he sent his boat ashore, where some In. dians, armed v/ith bows and ai-rows, and with fierce aspects, seemed disposed to make resistance. Thev wtire, however, brought to a kind of conference by means of the Salvador linguist ; and one of them venturing to go on boaid tht admi. ral, appealed so savage in murtners and address, t^ the Spaniards reasonably concluded he was one of the Caribbee cannibals. This man having answered the interrogations that were put to him by signs and words, wa# entertained ; and dismissed with such insignificant presents qs seemed ))e8tBiMted to his taste. Vol. I.— (2) J) ^1 i.ii: • I THE FIRST VOYAGE At the place where he landed, 50 men with long hair, adorned with plumes of parrot feathers, and armed, formed a kind of ambuscade ; and notwithstanding the exhortations of their countryman, refused to have any commerce with the ISpaniai'ds; and even began to commence hostilities. Though the Europeans were luy seven in number, they met tae sa- vages with great intrepidity, cut one with a sword in the buttock, and shot another with an arrow in the breast, on which the whole party fled with precipitation. The admiral was not displeased at this skirmish, as he imagined its event might increase the security of the colony left on the coast. Columbus, continuing his course with a fair wind, made such progress that, on the 9th of February, according to the pilot's reckoning, they were south of the Azores ; biit by the admiral's account, which proved to be right, they were 150 leagues to the west. The favourable weather which had hi- therto attended them, now began to change ; the wind increased to a hurricane, and the billows ran mountains high. For some days, the vessels were tossed at the mercy of the storm, during which the two ships separated ; and each sup- posing that the other had perished, the crews betook them- selves to acts of devotion, and the admiral vov/ed to go on a pilgrimage to our lady of Guadeloupe; but the crew went far- ther : they swore to walk barefoot in their shirts, to the first church dedicated to the virgin, they could find. In tempests and distress, the Spaniards are still known to seek refuge in such kind of superstition ; it is the strong hold of ignorance and the last which it quits. A scarcity of provisions increased their calamity ; and the ship wanting ballast, was in danger of being overset. For this last defect, the ingenuity of Columbus discovered an ex- pedient. He ordered his casks to be filled with sea-water; and with ift view to immortality, ^ven when on the brink of destruction, he wrote a brief account of his discoveries on two skins of parchment, which he wrapped in oil-cloths covered with wax ; and hrving inclosed them in two different casks, coinmitted them to the sea. OF COLUMBUS. 27 long hair, I, formed a ortations of !e with the I. Though met tlie sa- (vord in the 5 breast, on Dhe admiral led its event le coast, wind, made •rding to the ; biit by the ley were 150 irhich had hi- ind increased I high. For ercy of the [id each sup- betook them- d to go on a rew went far- , to the first In tempests eek refuge in of ignorance lity; and the overset. For overed an ex- ith sea-water; the brink of weries on two sloths covered lifFerent casks. 4- ,s, ■I The storm continued till the 16th of February, when one of the sailors discovered larri from the round-top, which proved to be St. Mary, one of the Azores, where, after four days spent in incessant labour, they came to an anchor. The in- habitants of this island humanely sent fresh provisions on board, and many compliments from their governor, who ex- pressed hisi astonishment at the success of the expedition, and seemed to rejoice at the discoveries that had been made. Nor were the natives less surprised, that the ship had been able to weather a storm of 15 days continuancp : these gave the ad- miral and his crew intimation of an hermitage, in the vicinity, dedicated to the blessed virgin, and at this they resolved to perform their vows. No sooner, however, had the boat and one half of the com- pany come on shore to fulfil this penance, and had begun their naked procession, than they were made prisoners by the go>- vemor, who had planted men in ambush on purpose. Colum- bus having waited in vain for the return of the boat, from day-break till noon, began to suspect some treachery ; and sailing round a point, to gain a view of the hermitage, per- ceived a number of Portuguese enter the boat, with a view, as he apprehended, of attacking the caraval. The prudence of Columbus waa on its guard. He hoped to be able to secure the Portuguese commander as an hostage, by inviting him on lioard ; but finding he kept aloof, the admiral demanded the reason of such an outrage on the Spanish nation, and threat- ened the consequences. The Portuguese captain declared that what had been done was by the express order-'rf the king; on which Columbus supposed a rupture had taken place be- tween the two crowns, and swore he would never quit his ship, till he had taken one hundred prisoners, and destroyed the whole island. He now returned to the port he had left ; but next day the the wind increasing, he lost h)« anchors, and was forced out to sea, with no more than three able sailors on board. The weather afterwards becoming mild, he endeavoured to recover the island of St. Mary, which he reached on the 21 st. Soon after a boat was dispatched to him in the governor's name with THE FIRST VOYAGE five men and a notary, to enquire whence the ship came, and if she actually carried the king of Spain''s commission. Bdng satisfied in these particulars, they returned, and ordered the prisoners to be released. It seems the object and the cn'derg of the Portuguese were to secure the admiral'^s person ; but this scheme was rendered abortive by his prudent caution. Columbus again set sail with a favourable wind ; but soon another tempest overtook him; and he narrowly escaped sliip^ wreck on the rock of Lisbon. Providence, however, still favoured him, and with great exertions, he at length anchored in the river Tagus. On this he dispatched an express by land to their catholic majesties with the news of his arrival, and another to the king of Portugal, requesting his jjermission to anchor before the city. On the 5th of March, an armed boat came alongside of the the admiral, and required him to give an account of himself to the king^s officers, as was customary on entering that river. The spirit of Columbus would not suffer him to submit to this indignity. As the king of Spain^s admiral, he gave them to understand, that he could not reply. The Portuguese finding him resolute, demanded a sight of the Spanish mona]Rch''s let- ter: this was readily produced; on which a suitable r&port being made, the commander immediately came on board with military music, and many expressions of friendly congratula- tion. No sooner was the nature of the voyage blazoned in Lisbon, than the whole river was covered with boats. The Indians and the particulars of the discovery were irresistible novelties and attractions. The king himself sent presents of necessaries and refreshments, accompanied with felicitations; and desired to see Columbus before he left his dominions.— The admiral at first hesitated; but reflecting that the two nations were at peace, he at last acceded to the sovereign's request, and waited on his majesty at the palace of Valparaiso, about nine leagues from Lisbon. The king ordered all the nobility of his court to advance and meet him ; and when the admiral was introduced into his presence, he insbted on his being covered, and sitting down. Havii^ heard the recital of bis adventures with apparent pleaauie, he offered to su^l^ ■i OF COLUMBUS. S» ) came, and iion. Being ordered the 1 the orders person; but caution, d ; but soon iscaped sbip^ ovrever, stiH ^h anchored ^ress by land arrival, and [jermistton to ngside of the nt of himaelf \g that river, submit to this gave them to guese finding nonarch's let- itable report in board with y congratulo- i blazoned in boats. The re irresistible It presents of felicitations; dominions.— that the two le sovereign's )f Valparaiso, dered all the Eind when the isisted on his the recital of ed to su^ly 1^ "a 'M him with whatever he stood in need of; though he could not help observing, that the right of conquest belonged to him, as Columbus had first been in the service of Portugal. The admiral modestly assigned his reasons for being of a different opinion. * It is very well,' replied the king, * justice ^ill doubtless be done.' Considerable offers were made to re-engage the admiral; and every honour ai^ distinction was paid him. The king even sent to inform him, after the interview, that should he be disposed to travel to Castile by land, every accommodation on the road should be provided him. Columbus, witli suit- able acknowledgements, declined this flattering offer; and setting sail from Lisbon, come to an anchor in the port of Falos, on the 15th of March, after an absenoe of more than seven months. The people attended his landing m procession; and thanks to the Almighty, for his protection, were mixed with admira- tion of tlie hero who had successfully encountered so many dangers, and laid open new regions, of which, however, the im- portance could not even be conjectured. By this time, Pinzon was arrived in Galicia, and was eager to carry the first news of the discoveries to the court; but being forbid to proceed with- out the admiral under whose conduct he sailed, the repulse made such an impression on his mind, that he fell ^k, and returning to his native place, in a few days breathed his last Meanwhile Columbus set out for Barcelona, where the court then resided; and his whole journey might be compared to a triumph. All ranks flocked round him, eager to see this intrepid adventurer, and the Indians in his train. He reached Barcelona about the middle of April, and new distinctions awaited him. The streets could scarcely contain the crowds that pressed on him; and to heighten pubUc curiosity, the productions of the new-discovered regions were carried unco- vered. To do him more signal honour, their majesties opdei«d their royal throne to be placed in public, on which they seated themselves under a canopy of cloth of gold. When the ad- miral ^jproached to kiss hands, they stood up, and caused km, to be seated in their pesence, ^d tr^ted h ji^ as a gran- ;lt: 3C THE FIRST VOYAGE 'i ' hi dee of the first class. Columbus then recited the principal particulars of his voyage, the discoveries he had made, and the hopes he entertained of finding still more important acces- sions to the dominions of Spain. He showed the Indians as they appeared in their native climes ; and displayed the riches of the new world. Having finished his narrative, their ma- jesties kneeUng down, thanked God, with tears of gratitude, which act of devotion was immediately followed by a grand Te Deum. Never was a man treated with more honour and distinction than Columbus was at this pe/ d. In the king"*s excursions round Barcelona, he kept him always by his side ; an honour which had never been conferred but on princes of the blood ; and which, perhaps, was more invidious than desirable. But the regard of their majesties for the admiral was not confined to unsubstantial forms: he was gratified with new patents, confirming and enlarging his former privileges ; and extending his viceroyalty and command over all the countries he had discovered, or might discover in future. The more the success of this expedition was canvassed, the more impor- tant it appeared ; and it was immediately resolved, that Co- lumbus should return with a powerful armament, to prosecute his discoveries. Not satisfied with this, the king dispatched an ambassador to pope Alexander VI. to obtain his apostolic sanction to the new dominions, and an exclusive title to future discoveries in the same quai'ter. The holy father made no difficulty in complying with this request ; and as^ if he had been lord of the world, drew a Une from pole to pole at the distance of 100 leagues to the westward of the Azores, and bestowed this extensive track of the globe on their catliolic majesties. Such was the original title of Spain to America, superadded to the right of discovery. In vain shall we trace the foundation of either, to validity, from relijjion to justice ; but ambition, entrenched behind power, is satisfied with the semblance of truth. At this moment it is a question undecided, if Europe lost or gained more by the discovery of America, or ratho: by colonizing it. Columbus, however, will ever enjoy the pre- ■fit OF COLUMBUS. SI the principal id made, and portant acces- he Indians as ^ed the riches ve, their ma- of gratitude, I by a grand nd distinction g^s excursions e ; an honour of the blood ; jsirable. Imiral was not Red with new rivileges; and [ the countries e. The more e more impor- ved, that Co- :, to prosecute ig dispatched in his apostolic title to future Ither made no as. if he had :o pole at the Azores, and their catliolic to America, shall we trace eminence that is due to superior penetration and perseverance; nor can we contemplate liis humane and enlightened conduct in general, without paying him the tribute of our praise. THE SECOND VOYAGE OP COLUMBUS. npHE fame and merits of Columbus already made the malig- nant passions of jealousy and envy rankle in the hearts of those who had opposed his original plans, or wished to detract from his success. But all those emotions were for the present stifled ; and the necessary measures being concerted for the prosecution of his future undertakings, with an activity pro- portioned to the objects in view, in a short space, a fleet of 17 vessels was equipped, stored with provisions, implements for improvements, and commodities for traffic. Many artizans and labourers were engaged ; and so great was the thirst of gold, that numbers were desirous of entering into this service, beyond what could be accepted. The admiral restricted him- self to 1,500 persons of all descriptions ; and having taken on board some of the most useful European animals, set sail from the road of Cadiz^ on the 25th of September, 1493, and immediately stood for the Canary islands, where he intended to take in refreshments. He arrived at the Grand Canary on the 2d of October ; and on the 7th continued his voyage for the West Indies, as they were now called in contradistinction to the East. 1 w. \ ^ : :!■■:;!; I I f'tfi ss THE SKCOND VOYAGE A prosperous ^ale attended them for 400 leagues to tlie, westward of Gomera ; nor did they fall in witli any of the weeds, which had been so plentiful in the former voyage. On the 26th, at night, the mariners perceived those lights which tliey call the body of St. Elmo, to which they sang litanies and prayers, in full confidence that no danger would now en- sue from any storm, however violent. On the 2d of November, a great alteration in the winds and «ky took place ; and it poured down torrents of rain. From this the admiral concluded they were near land ; nor was he wrong in his conjecture ; for, at day-break, they descried a high mountainous island, about seven leagues to the westward, which he named Dominica, because it was discovered on Sun- day morning. Three others islands were discovered in the vicinity ; when the people, assembling on the pK)p, sang Salve rt'gm4i^ atid returned thanks to God for their prosperous voyage. The east side of Dominica affording no convenient anchorage, they stood over to another island, which Columbus named Mariglante, from his own diiip; and landing, took possession with the usual solemnities. He soon sailed to another island, which he denominated St. Mary of Guadaloupe, in conformity to a promise made to th^ friars of a convent bearing that name. At the distance of two leagues from this shore, they espied a very high rock, termi- nating in a point, from which gushed a natural cascade with prodigious noise. Having landed some men, they advanced to a kind of to^vn, which was abandoned by all the inhabitants, except some cluldren, to whose arms tliey tied a few presents, in token of amity. Here they saw geese, a variety of parrots, and several fruits, particularly pine apples of exquisite taste and flavour. They refrained from meddling with any of the domestic utensils or manufactures, that the natives might conceive the better opinion of the morality of their visitors. Next day, the adnural sent two boats ashore, to open^ if possible, some communicatiim with the natives ; and the crews soon returned with two young men, who, it appeared, had been in a state of captivity. The boats, returning again for i OF COLUMBUS. 2$ ;agues to tite ill nny of the r voyage. On e; lights which sang litanies irould now en- the winds and ' rain. From I ; nor was he ley descried a the westward, vered on Sun- overed in the le p(K)p, sang leir prosperous no convenient lich Columbus landing, took iuominated St. se made to th^ istance of two h rock, terroi- cascade with they advanced \e inhabitants, few presents, !ty of parrots, ixquisite taste ith any of the natives might ;ir visitors. to open, if and the crews appeared, had ing s^pia for lome of the people who had been left behind, found six women in their company, who had fled to their protection. These the admiral presented with beads and bells, and dismissed, contrary to their inclinations; for they were no sooner landed, than the Caribbees robbed them in the sight of their benefac- tors. Next opportunity they had, these poor creatures leapt into the boat, said implored the protection of the Spaniards, giving them to understand, that the islanders had eaten their husbands, and retained them in slavery. They were therefore I brought on board, when they gave the admiral to understand, p tliat towards the south were many islands and a large conti- nent ; and they pointed out the situation of Hispaniola. For this island Columbus would instantly have proceeded, had not ■ one of his captains and eight men been on shore without leave. To recover them, he sent a party ashore with muskets and j" trumpets, to give the signal of recal. This expedient proving ^^ unsuccessful, he ordered 40 men, under captain Hoidea, to range the country, and to make observations on its produce. They reported that they found mastic, aloes, sanders, ginger, frankincense, and abundance of cotton ; that birds of various species were in abundance, and that they crossed several rivers, some of which were deep and spacious. While absent on this excursion, the stragglers returned of their own accord, and said they had been bewildered in the woods; but to punish their presumption, the captain was ordered into irons, and the men were abridged of their usual I allowance. Having made this example of necessary severity, |Cdlumbus himself landed; and entering some of the houses, fiiund plenty of cotton, raw and spun, and numbers of human skulls, and bones suspended in baskets. The natives seemed to live and lodge more comfortably than any of those he had irisited in his first voyage. On the 10th of November, he sailed in quest of Hispaniola, passed an island which he called Mountserrat, from it» xtraordinary elevation; the inhabitants of which, he learned, been totally devoured by the Caribbees. In his progresi*, le passed island^ to which he gave the respective names of it; MaryRodondf^ Antagu^ and St. Maitin, near Uie last Vol. I. E IIP'« >^' : :;i^' 34 THE SECOND VOYAGE of which he canie to anchor ; and, on wci|;hing, found pieces of coral adhering to the flukes. On account of bad weather, he again anchored at another island, where they secured four women and three children, and soon after fell in with a canoe, in which were four men and a woman. These seeing an escape was impracticable, put themselves in a posture of defence; and the female discharged an arrow with such force, that it actually pierced a strong target. The canoe being accidentally overset, they betook themselves to swinuning, and one of them used his bow with as much dexterity as if he had been on land. All the males were eunuchs, and had been castrated by the Caribbees to increase their fatness. Departing from thence, Columbus continued his course; leaving to the northward 50 islands, to the largest of which he gave the name of St. Ursula, and to the rest that of the Eleven Thousand Virgins. He then anchored in a bay, on the west side of what he called St. John Baptist, where the mariners caught plenty of fish. In the vicinity of the bay, they visited some well-built, houses with a square in front, and flanked on the sides with cane-towers, having their houses interwoven with greens. On the 14th he arrived in die bay of Samana in Hispaniola, where he sent on shore one of his Indian natives, now a con- vert to Christianity, who undertook for the submission of his countrymen* From thence he proceeded for the town of Na- tivity ; and, coming to an anchor in the port of Monte Christo, some of his men discovered two bodies of men, with a rope about their necks, suspended on a kind of cross. This did not augur well ; but whether the sufferers were Christians or natives, they could not tell. Next day a number of Indians came on board, with ap. parent confidence and cordiality; and, pronouncing several Spanish words, the apprehensions of the admiral began to be allayed. On the morrow, however, his doubts were at an end ; for, on anchoHng near the town of Nativity, some In- dians came along side, and enquired for him by name, pre- senting a compliment from the cazique Guacanagari. From them he had the sorrow to leam^ that the greater part of his OF COLUMBUS. 81 bund pieces sad weather, lecurcd four vith a canoe, ig an escape of defence; arce, that it accidentally one of them €en on land, rated by the his course; ?st of which L that of the in a bay, on t, where the • of the bay, u-e in front, their houses Hispaniola, now a con- ission of his ;own of Na- •nte Christo, with a rope This did Christians or colony was dead, and the rest gone into distant countries.— Columbus concealed his suspicions, and dismissed the messen- ger with presents for the prince. Ruin and desolation met his view, on entering the port of the Nativity; the town was burnt to the ground, and not a soul was to be seen. The bodies of 11 Spaniards were disco- vered, who seemed to have been dead a month. Ruminating with regret and resentment on this disastrous event, he received a visit from the brother of the cazique, who informed him, that he had scarcely sailed, before the colony began to quarrel; each person endeavouring to amass as much gold, and to mo- nopolize as many women as suited his appetite or his avarice ; that having committed a murder on one of their associates, ten of them had retired into the dominions of Caunabo, who was lord of the mines, by whom they were put to death, and who afterwards destroyed the town with all the inhabitants. He farther represented, that Guacanagari having espoused the cause of the Spaniards, was wounded in the conflict ; and in consequence was now under confinement. This story exactly tallied with intelligence received from some Spaniards, who had been sent up the country to reconnoitre. The admiral therefore paid the cazique a visit next day, and was received with every token of affection and concern. The prince re- peated the melancholy tale with marks of unfeigned regret ; and displayed his own wounds and those of his men, which had been received in defence of the settlement. Compliments of condolence being passed, the cazique presented the admiral with eight strings of white, red, and green stones, a string of gold beads, a regal crown of the same metal, and three cala- bashes full of gold dust, weighing about two pounds. In return for such valuable articles, Columbus gave him toys to the amount of three reals, which he highly prized; and though extremely ill, insisted on attending his guest to the fleet, where he first saw some horses with surprize. He was after- wards instructed in the mysteries of the Christian reli^on, which, with some heeitation, he embraced. The admiral being disgusted at the sight of a place which had been the scene of so many disasters, sailed to the east- ILT Q 80 THE SFXX)NI) VOYAGE > '■€ h f lM:i i.. -i'^ ward witb Win whole fleet; ami parsing the fimall though plea- sant isles of Monte Christo, anchored before an Indian town, wlicre he designed to plant a colony. Having landed those that were intended for settlers in a oonunodious plain, he built a tower to which he gave the ap- {)ella/tion of iHabelia. The spot lay under a rock, on which a fort might be easily erected ; the harbour was large, and in the vicinity ran a stream of excellent water, from which the to>vn might be conveniently supplied. At no great distance, the mines of Cebao were said to lie. To ascertain this, the admiral dispatched a captain and 15 men ; and on the ^ of February, 1494, he sent off 12 of his ships to Castile under the command of Antonio de Torres. •"The party sent to explore tlie country, informed the admiral, that on tlte second day, they came to the pass of an inmost inaccessible mountain; and at the distance of e-ery lt;ague found a ca/ique, by wlwm they were hospitably received. On the sixth day, they readied the mines of Cebao, where they actually saw the Indians collecting gold from a small river, as they afterwards did from many others of the same province. This fateful intelligence assisted to revive the admiral, •who had experienced a fit of sickness from fatigue ; and on the 13th of March he set out for Cebao, well attended by men on foot and horseback, leaving, however, a strong guard under the command of his brother, Diego Columbus. This precaution he took in ccmsequence of a conspiracy which he had detected and quelled on board, and likewise to secure the settlers from any sudden Attack. He took such necessaries with him as he juviged proper to build a fort in the province of Cebao, for thie protection of those he meant to leave there to gather gold ; and to intimidate the natives, he marched his people through their villages in rank and file with arms and accoutrements, trumpets sounding, and colours flying. The inhabitants fieemed to have no idea of private property: they endeavoured to make free with whatever pleased their fancy, and shewed surprize at meeting with a repulse. The whole way was agreeably diversified with pleasant mountains, covered with wild vines, and various sorts of fragrant trees. OF COLUMBUS. J7 though plea- [ndiaii town, settlcrR in a gave the ap- , on which a arge, and in n which the 'eat distance, tain thin, the on the ^ of [Castile under the admiral, of an ftJ.most eery kague eceived. On , where they nail river, as B province, the admiral, gue ; and on attended by Btrong guard mbus. This icy which he to secure the necessaries the province o leave there marched hit ith arms and lying. The >perty: they their fancy. The whole Euns, covered -A On the 14th of March, the admiral proceeded for the river ef Canes; and soon reached another to which he gave the i^pel- lation o^' the Gold river, because here he discovered some grains of that precious metal. Having with some difficulty passed this large volume of water, he found a considerable town with the doors barricadoed against him with canes. He entered the province of Cel)ao on the 16tli, which though not very fi»tije, yields plenty of grass, and is watered by rivers abound- ing in gold. His first attention was directed to the building of a fort in the centre of the ipines, and in a situation naturally strong. This fortificaticm he called the castle of St. Thomas. It was garrisoned by 66 men, under the conduct of Peter Margarite. The admiral having communicated his instructions and ad- vice to the garrison, set out on his return for Isabella, where he found cucumbers and melons, raised from European seeds, fit for the table; and ears of wheat which had been sown only two months, ripe and luxuriant. Vetches produced a crop in 25 days, and sugar canes budded in the same space. Columbus saw and admired the fertility of the soil ; nor were the climate and the water less agreeal)le to his wishes. A messenger arrived on the 1st of April, with intelligence, that the cazique Caunabo, was preparing to attack the fort ot ^t. Thomas. To this Columbus gave Httle credit, as he did not suppose the natives had either resolution or force to make any impression on it ; but wishing to leave ev€ry thing in quiet, before he proceeded on farther discoveries, he dispatched a reinforcement of 70 men. Meanwhile he cmnpleted his town, which was regularly disposed, and supplied with water by an artificial canal. He likewise resolved to send all the superfluous hands back to Spain, European provisions begin- ning to fail, and the health of several, in consequence, appear- ing to decline. The more robust, he ordered to traverse the island, that they might make discoveries, and become habi- tuated to the Indian diet. Accordingly 400 Spaniards departed from Isabella on tlie 29th of April, and having crossed the river del Oro, af^e- 38 THE SECOND VOYAGE !^:! li^'l ,1 f ■' licnded a cazique, whom, with his brother, they sent to the admii'al in irons, for breach of trust. Another cazique, rely- ing on the services he had done the Spaniards, accompanied the prisoners to Isabella, in order to inferced 'j for their liberation. The admiral received him courteously, and, to enhance the value of the favour he intended to giant, commanded the de- linquents to be brought out for execution. The mediator, with a flood of tears, begged for their hves, which were granted to his friendship and soHcitations. Immediately after their release, a person on horseback arrived from St. Thomases, who told him he had rescued four Spaniards, who had been taken by the cacique's subjects by way of reprisal, and that 400 per- sons fled at the very sight of his horse. Columbus having made preparations for a new expedition, left a council, of which his brotlier was president, to govern in his absence. He then sailed to Cuba ; and on the 3d of May discovered Jamaica, where he was informed there was plenty of gold. This island appeared beautiful in the extreme. A number of natives came on board to barter provisions for toys. Coasting along the shore, he sent out his boats to sound, when they were unexpectedly surrounded by armed canoes. The Spaniards, however, not being intimidated, saluted the a.<^f.ailants with a flight of arrows, by which several were wounded, and the rest fled with precipitation. The admiral having repaired his ship, stood over, again, for Cuba, deter mined to discover whether it was an island or a continent.~- The same time a young Jamaica Indian requested to accom- pany Columbus to Spain ; and, in spite of the remonstrances of his countrymen and friends, persisted in his resolution. It is needless to say he met with a kind receptioii. Having reached the point of Cuba, which he denominated Ca^x) de Santa Cruz, he was overtaken by a dreadful storm .of thunder and lightning. He found the whole sea in this quarter intersjiersed with little sandy islands, which render the navigation very dangerous. Close to the shore, some of them, however, were very pleasant ; and therefore he styled them the Queen''8 Garden. On these, tliey saw scarlet-coloured cranes, abundance of turtles, and an infinite quantity of siiig- OF COLUMBUS. 8C nt to the lue, rely- panied the liberation, hance the id the de- mediator, ;re granted after their ►mas's, who been taken It 400 per- expedition, to govern the 3d of there was le extreme, avisions for ,s to sound, led canoes, saluted the veral were he admiral uba, deter, ontinent.— to accom- Qonstrances dution. It enominated idful storm sea in this lich render •e, some of e he styled let-coloured lity of siiig- ing birds. The very air was impregnated with fragrance, and the senses were recreated with delight. In one of the channels separating these islands, they ob- served some fishermen in a canoe, exercising their vocation after a new and curious form. A string being tied round the tail of some small fishes, called reves, which had been taught to encounter their fellows of the deep, by chnginr fast to them, both are drawn up together. The Spaniards saw them catch a tortoise by this means ; the reve being wound round its neck. It is said that these d*^ coy fishes will some- times attack sharks of the largest size. The Indians made a present to the admiral of the fish they had caught ; for which he gave them a suitable return. He now began to be in great want of provisions ; and his health was much impaired by fa- tigue, and want of rest, which he could not venture to enjoy amid such a dangerous navigation. On the £2d of May, Columbus landed on one of these larger, surrounding islands, to which he gave the name of St. Mary. Here^ie entered a town, abandoned by the inhabitant/; where he found nothing but fish and dogs. Continuing his voyage to the north-east, he became still more embarrassed by the vast number of flats and islands which opened in unvaried suc- cession to his view. With all his precautions the ship was frequently aground; and seeing no probable termination of the dangers he incessantly encountered, he was induced to re- hnquish his design of making the circuit of the island, till he should ^eturn to Spain. The admiral now touched again at Cuba. On this occasioi. one of the mariners having ascended a tree, saw about 30 per- sons armed with spears and staves called macanas; and ^among them one clad in a white vest, reaching to his knees, and carried by two men drest in a similar manner, with complexions as fair as Spaniards. As these Indians hastily retired, Colum- bus next day sent several people on shore to ascertain the truth of this report, but without success. Some canoes coming off with a supply of water rnd provi- sions, one of the Indians was detained as an interpreter ; on promise, however, of being set at liberty as soon as ht liad 40 THE SECOND VOYAGE "!,'! g^ven tlie intelligence required. From liim tlie admiral was g^ven to understand, that Cuba was an island; that the king never deigned to address his subjects but by signs ; and that the surrounding coast was low, and full of islets. Next day they fell in with such a number of turtles, that they actually covered the sea : while the sun was darkened by a cloud of sea-crow^. They likewise saw such swarms of but- terflies, that the '^ace of the day was obscured from moiTiing tiU night, '.vhcn a deluge of rain swept them all away. On che 13th of June, Cohimbus anchored in an island about 30 leagues in circumference, which he called Evange- Hsta; and having wooded and watered, directed his course southward ; but soon found himself embayed. Returning to the coast of Cuba, he stood to the eastward ^ and eti the 30th his ship ran aground, and stuck so fast, thpA it was with great difiicully and some damage she could be got off. ^ ^hik in this vicinity, tliey were visited by an old cazio *, sr .ing the celebration of mass. To this service he seemed to pay great attention ; and, at its conclusion, signified his belief in the existence of a supreme Being, the rewarder of virtue, and the punisher of vice in a future state. The admiral put again to sea on the 16th of July. The winds and rains considerably incommoded him at first ; but as he approached cape Cruz, he was overtaken by such a sudden storm, that before the sails could be furled, the ships were well nigh overset. Nor was this storm the only evil : they had also to contend with famine. Providentially, however, they reached cape Cruz, where the i'mlians supplied them with eassa'id bread, and abundance of fish, and store of fruits.-— Thus refreshed, they stood fbr Jamaica, and coasting it to the westwai'd, found it furnislied with excellent harbours, and re^ lete witli inhabitoiit^ On the 20th of August, Columbus made die south side of Hispaniok, near cape Teberoon, which he then called cape St. Michael. Soon afW, a cazique came on board, who ac- costed him by name, and pronounced some Spanisli words. Towards the end of the month, having lost sight of the other twa ships under his commaild, he anchored near the island of ti tl aj ei OF COLUMBUS. 41 [miral was t the king ; and that irtles, that irkened by mis' of but' a moiTiing ail island I Evange- hie course turning to id on the t was with tf, yvhWa ed to pay $ belief in rtue, and ly. The ; but as [a sudden |ips wens ;hey h^d ir, they in with Tuits.— ig it to krs. and side of bd cape mo ac- Iwords. other of n V. Alto Vdo. Here the crew killed eight seals, and caught abundance of pigeons and other birds, which being unaccus- tomed to the cruelty of man, had not learned the necessity of flying from his approach. At the end of six days, the missing ship joined. The ad- miral then coasted along Hispaniola, where they had a view of a spacious plain, so populous, that for a league it seemed to be one continued city ; and near it lay a large lake. Here the natives came on board; and informed them that the colony at Isabella was weU. This pleasant information being receiv- ed, he dispatched nine men across the island, to inform the planters of his arrival on the coast. Proceeding eastward, he sent his boats ashore for water, near a populous town, whence the inhabitants saUied with bows and poisoned arrows, to op- pose a landing. They even produced some ropes, with which they menaced to bind the intruders; but seeing the Spaniards advance without dismay, they threw away their arms, and made a tender to the admiral of all they possessed. Observing an uncommon fish of great magnitude sporting in the waves, and judging from other indications, that a storm was approaching, the admiral wished to findaplac^ of security to anchor in ; and had the good fortune to discover an island, near the east part of Hispanic^ a, called by the naiives Ada- manai. Here being sheltered, he observed an eclipse of the moon, which was followed by a tempest for some days succes- sively. Having weathered the storm, and reached the eastern point of Hibpaniola, he passed over to a little island, named Mona by thie Indians ; and in his passage from thence to St. «» t.hn de Borriquen, he was seized with a pestilential and le- thargic fever, which so jn deprived him of his memory and reason. In this dilemma, his people resolved to proceed to Isabella, where they arrived in five days; and the admiral recovered his senses, on the fever leaving him ; but was long in a feeble convalescent state. At Isabella he had the felicity of finding his brother Bar- tholomew, who on leaving the court of England, where, we Iiave previously mentioned, he had been in treaty, received intelligence from Charles, king of France, of his brother's Vol. I. F 4% THE SECOND VOVAGE !! ^ success ; and, by this monarch, lie was supplied with 100 crowns to prosecute his journey to Spain. Unfortunately, the admiral had sailed on his second expedition before his arrival at Seville ; but their catholic majesties soon enabled him to pursue the same track with a fleet of three ships. Bartholo- mevr was constituted, by the admiral, Governor of the Indies. This title occasioned some dispute, and exposed Columbus to the obl'jquy of his adversaries. The difference was, however, compromised ; and he was allowed to bear the appellation of Lieutenant of the Indies. Thus, though the power was the same, the word that expressed it was changed. Man ha|> always been the dupe of terms. The society and assistance of Bartholomew was a real con- solation to the admiral, who by the misconduct of Peter Mar- / , found himself involved in quarrels with the natives. Tii insolent officer, instead of obeying the orders of Colum- bus, encamped with the party with which he had been en- trusted to traverse the country, about 10 leagues from Isabella, whence he dispatched menacing letters to the council. Finding it impossible to usurp the supreme direction as h wished, and dreading the return of the admiral, he embarked in the first ship bound for Spain, leaving his men without a leader. These following their own inclinations dispersed about the country, robbed the natives, carried off the women, and conunitted such atrocities as alienated the affections of the Indians, and induced them to think of revenge. Indeed, had the caziques and their dependent lords been ^rmly united, they might easily have emancipated themselves from the Spanish yoke. But jealousy will always prevent unanimity among rival powers, even where their interest is the same. Guacanagari continued firm in his professions, and had even incurred the resentment of his brother sovereigns, for the faithful part he had acted. A neighbouring cazique had killed one of his women; Caunabo, the lord of the mines, had stolen a second: to revenge the death of the one, and to recover the other, he earnestly implored assistance. The admiral, out of gi'atitude, undertook to redress his wrongs. Besides he had an interest in fomenting dissentions between the Indian OF COLUMBUS. U ied with 100 rtunately, the ore his arrival labled him to >s. Bartholo- of the Indies. . Columbus to was, however, appellation of power was the >d. Man ha# «ras a real con- of Peter Mar- h the natives, iers of Colum- had been en- I from Isabella, mcil. Finding wished, and :ed in the first eader. These t the country, ind conunitted Indians, and int lords been ;ed themselves Iways prevent interest is the sions, and had reigns, for the que had killed les, had stolen iid to recover The admiral, s. Besides he en the Indian f "* M *: chiefs. Policy and morality have ever been at variance, and Columbus studied the latter ! On the 24th of March, 1495, the admiral, in company with Guacanagari, set out from Isabella, to prosecute the war against his Indian foes, who had assembled an army of 100,000 men ; while the Europeans did not exceed 200, with 20 horses, and as many dogs. Never were such disproportionate armies opposed to each other. On the second day, Columbus being in sight of the enemy, divided his army into two bodies, giving the com- mand of one to his brother Bartholomew, that, by a double attack, the attention of the Indians might be distracted, and their confusion increased. The first discharge of the Spanish cross bows and muskets threw them into some disorder ; but when the Europeans advanced with horses and dogs, the timid and undisciplined multitude fled in consternation and dismay. Numbers were slain and taken prisoners; among the latter was Caunabo, with all his wives and children. This cazique confessed that he had killed 20 of the Spaniards who were first left at Nativity, and that his intention was to attack Isabella. Such a confession confirmed by actual rebellion, if it deserves the name, was judged so criminal, that the admiral determined to send him and all his family to the tribunals of Spain. This signal victory and the captivity of Caunabo so inti- midated the Indians, that in the space of a few months, the admiral reduced the whole island; and imposed a quarterly tribute on the natives. Peace became so well confirmed, that a single Spaniard could travel over the whole island without molestation, and even experience hospitality and regard. The colony, however, by change of climate and of food, was nearly reduced to one-third of the number originally landed at Isabella. During this interval of repose, the Spaniards made them- selves acquainted with the manners and customs of the natives, and the productions of islands they had not hitherto visited. With regard to religion, every cazique had a detached house set apart for the lodging and service of certain wooden images, denominated Cemis, before which they prayed, and used pc* Alt THE SECOND VOYAGE -'■ -(^;;; : \^B culiar rites. Caunabo being interrogated respecting his con« dition after death, replied, that in a future state he should b -^ removed to a certain vale, where he should associate with h\% parents and predecessors, and enjoy every sensual pleasure, with the highest relish unrestrained. Hispaniola being now in a state of submission, and the co- lony established and protected, the admiral resolved to revisit Spain, to give an account of his proceedings, and to reftite the charges of some malicious accusers. He therefore em- barked on the 10th of Maich, 1496, on board two ships, with 225 Spaniards and 30 Indians, and immediately steered for the eastward, The winds proving unfavourable and provisions falling short, ho was obliged to stand to the southward, and on the 9th of April anchored at Margalante. Next day he sailed to Guada- loupe, and sending his boats ashore, the crews were opposed by a number of armed women, who rushed out of a wood. — The mariners resting on their oars, ordered two of their Indian females to swim to land, and inform the islanders, that provi- sions were their only objects, for which they would make a liberal return. These Amazons having understood the demand, pointed to the northward, where their husbands would supply them. Accordingly, on the ships coasting round, a number of people came down to the beach, and let fly a shower of arrows at the boats. It was at last found necessary to discharge a broadside from the ships against these determined islanders. On this they instantly fled, abandoned their houses, and left them to the mercy of the Spaniards. Their eflects, being now consi- dered as lawful plunder, were seized without remorse, and their houses destroyed. A sufficient quantity of bread was found to supply the wants of the ships ; and in some of the dwellings, which were all square, they discovered honey, wax, and some implements of iron. A man''s arm, roasting on a spit, appeared to have been the intended meal of one family. The admiral now dispatched 40 men to obtun intelligence of the country, who returned next day with 10 women and 3 boys, among whom was the spouse of a cazique. This lady* „r i^-;" OF COLUMBUS. 43 ting> his con- he should I. ^ ;iate with Lis lal pleasure, and the co- ined to revisit id to reftite lerefore em- ships, with eered for the falling short, n the 9th of d to Guada- ere opposed )f a wood. — their Indian that provi- idd make a id, pointed ipply them, r of people rows at the a, broadside (. On this ift them to now consi- norse, and bread was »me of the aney, wax, sting on a e family, ntelligence nen and 3 This lady> 'Hf notwithstanding her fieetness, was secured by a Canary man, whom she hoped and attempted to make her prey. These women were enormously corpulent and clumsy; they had long hair flowing down to the shoulders, and were swathed with cotton from the ankle to the knee. This was the only dress they wore. The captive princess said the island was inhabited by women only; and that among those who opposed the land- ing were only 4 men. At a certain season of the year, it ap- peared, that the males visited them for a short space, and then retired. This was likewise the case in another island, possessed by the same sort of Amazons, who seemed to be endowed with a masculine understanding, and strength not common among the males of this climate. The ships being furnished with a supply of necessaries, set sail for Guadaloupe on the 20th of April, after the admiral had dismissed the captive females, except the princess and her daughter, who preferred accompanying Caunabo to Spain.— This man it appeared was one of their countrymen, though he had risen to be a cazique of Hispeniola. When the ships were about 100 leagues west from the Azores, provisions began to run short, and the crews were obliged to be put to a short allowance. On the 8th of June, several days after all the reckonings of the pilots had been out, but exactly as the admiral calculated, they made the land of Odenicra, between Lisbon and cape St. Vincent. By this time the famine was so severe, that some proposed to eat the Indians, while others recommended their being thrown over- board to lessen the consumption. The admiral rejected both these proposals with disdain, and exerted his utmost address to protect the wretched captives. Next morning his humanity received its recompence in a sight of land, which so well ar corded with his prediction, that his men began to think hii inspired. The admiral being landed, set out for Burgos, where their catholic majesties were then celebrating the nuptials of their son prince John with Margaret of Austria. He met with a favourable reception; laid befisre the king and queen specimens q£ the various productions he had accumulated in his voyage ; 46 THE THIRD VOYAGE I ' !:h flfe.. '. !.-|':> ■m:: and presented them with a considerable quantity of gold dust, pieces of that metal, and articles of manufacture, enriched with its plates. His next business was to vindicate his conduct from some aspersions, with which envy had tarnished his character. In this he apparently succeeded to his wishes ; but when he re- quested to be sent back with supplies to the colony, which he justly represented as being in want of men and necessaries, so dilatory was the court, that many months elapsed before he could obtain the object of his wishes. At last an incompetent relief was sent off in two ships, under the command of Peter Fernandez Coronell. The admiral was once more reduced to the necessity of unheeded solicitation. The Spanish minis- try thwarted his designs ; their majesties perhaps were jealous of his superior character ; and the bishop of Burgos, a man of considerable influence, exerted all the arts of low cunning to bring him into disgrace. This person was the inveterate enemy of Columbus ; and in the sequel it will appear, was the chief author of his calamities. THE THIRD VOYAGE i. OF COLUMBUS. i:'^ •THAT patient fortitude and perseverence, which were cha- racteristic of Columbus, enabled him at last to carry his point. He forwarded and superintended this new expedition with all possible diligence ; and at last, on the 30th of May, 1498, set sail from the bay of St. Lucar de Barrameda with OF COLUMBUS. 47 of gold dust, ure, enriched ct from some haracter. In when he re- ny, which he ecessaries, so sed before he 1 incompetent land of Peter nore reduced panish minis- 5 were jealous jrgos, a man ' low cunning :he inveterate appear, was ch were cha- to carry his ^ expedition Dth of May, rameda with ■if- six ships filled with necessaries for the settlers ; resolving to prosecute his discoveries with fresh alacrity. On the 9th of June, he took in refreshments at Madeira ; arid on the 19th reached Gomera. Here a French ship having captured three Spanish vessels, put to sea with them, on the appearance of the squadron. The admiral being informed of this capture, ordered his ships to chase, but the French escaped by dint of sailing. Columbus now proceeded to Ferro, from which he dispatched three of his ships to Hispaniola, under approved officers, while he with the rest should sail towards the cape Verd islands, and from thence direct his views to the discovery of the con- tinent. On the ^th of June, the admiral came to an anchor in Bona Vistra, where he found a few houses for the accommo- dation of lepers, who are landed here for a cure. The Por- tuguese who had the charge of the island supplied Columbus with such articles as they could spare ; and upon his enquir- ing how the leprosy was healed, was informed, that the patients trust chiefly to the temperature of the air, and the flesh of tortoises, with the blood of which they were externally anoint- ed. Turtles and goats were extremely numerous in this island, of the latter of which many are salted and sent to Portugal. At St. Jago, the admiral wished to take on board some cows and bulls for his plantation in Hispaniola ; but finding some difficulty and delay in obtaining this object, he sailed without accomplishing it ; resolving to steer south-west till he should reach the line, and then to alter his course to west. He proceeded accordingly: but provisions and water falling short, he determined to change his direction and make for Hispaniola. He therefore stood to the northward, when one day, about noon, a sailor from the round-top saw land to the westward, about 15 leagues distant, stretching towards, the north-east as far as the eye could reach. The mariners sung the Salve Regina ; and the admiral gave the new discovered land the name of Trinity, from the circumstances of three mountains presenting tliemselves to his view at once. 18 THE THIRD VOYAGE ■•!*ii W"! i'l ! 1' i ■■' Hi' i r^t; Continuing his course due west, he discovered the continent at the distance of S5 leagues, on the 1st of August; but mistaking it for another island, gave it the appellation of Islu Santa. Columbus, for better security, proceeded to a more westerly point of land, denominated Del Arcnal. In his v/ty he was followed by a canoe with 25 men, who stopped within musket shot, and shouted aloud. He endeavoured to allure them to the ship, by displaying some brass ornaments and looking glasses ; but this expedient, proving, in this instance, ineffec- tual, he ordered one of his men to ascend the poop, and pky on the tabor and pipe, while his companions danced round him. No sooner did the Indians hear the music, and observe the gesticulations of the Spaniards, than they took them for a signal of war, and prepared for a resolute defence. The sa- vages however retired on a discharge of cross bows from the ship ; but they went alongside of another caraval, without apprehension; and some civilities passed between them and the captain. Their complexions were pretty fair ; they had long hair tied with strings, and wore girdles of cotton cloth. Having watered his ships at Arenol, from artificial trenches which he found on the shore, he proceeded north-west to another mouth or channel, which he called Boca del Drago, and which is formed by a point of Trinity island meeting another from the continent. In the midst of the Boca del Drago he anchored; and here the currents were so strong, and the roaring of the waves so terrible, that the mariners were filled with consternation and fear. They however escaped without damage; and the admiral again weighing anchor, sailed along the south coast of Paria, as he called it, which he then conjectured was an island ; and hoped to find a pas- sage northward to Hispaniola; but in this he was at last undeceived. The boats being set on shore on the 5th of August, found plenty of fruits and wood ; and observed traces of the natives who fled at their approach. A little father down the coast, a canoe with three men came off, and met with the usual kind OF COLUMBUS. 49 Lugust ; but iation of Islu reception and presents from the admiral, after which they were sent ashore, where a number of the Indians were assem- bled. These being satisfied of the pacific disposition of the Spaniards, commenced a traffic with them. The males co- vered their heads and waists with cotton cloth ; but the females were in a state of perfect nudity. They seemed more civilized and tractable than the Hispaniolans ; but, like them, shewed the greatest predilection for brass toys and bells. Nothing valuable appearing among the productions of this quarter, save a few inconsiderable plates of gold suspended from the necks of some of the natives, Columbus taking six of the Indians on board, and sailing 'vestward, touched at two lofty and well-peopled islands, which seemed more rich than those he had left. The inhabitants wore strings of beads or pearl round their afms^ and had heavier plates o*f gold. The admiral having purchased some of the pearls, which he was informed were found to the westward and northward of Paria, sent off some boats to enquire ipto the circumstances of this valuable fishery. The natives received the Spaniards with every mark of amity and hospitality, and expressed their desire to live with the Europeans in those sentiments. Columbus, continuing to sail westward, found the water become more shallow ; and having reconnoitred the coast by means of one of his smaller vessels, discovered that what ap- peared to be islands was one continuous continent. He was therefore obliged to return to the eastward ; and, with some difficulty, passed the straits lying between Paria and Trinity island. He now sailed along the coast of Paria; and afler passing some islands, entered the harbour of Domingo on the 30th of August, where his brother had built a city of that name. Columbus, almost blind with incessant watchfulness, and quite exhausted with fatigue, now flattered himself with the hopes of reposing in the bosom of peace and tranquillity. Alas ! his expectations were vain : the whole island was in a state of confusion; the greater number of the settlers were dead ; a new and dreadful disease, which poisons the springs of life, had attacked about 160; a considerable party had Vol. I.— (3) G 50 THE THIHl) VOYAGK In \ LA ■ M)H1 mi, '■!!• .1 h- rebellcd under a })ersoii whom ho had cunstitutcd chief justice, and, to complete his cliagrin, the three ships dispatched from llie Canaries were not arrived. After a tedious voyage, in V !iich a great part of the provisions were spoiled, these ves- sels, however, at last arrived. The admiraPs brother having iniormed him of the circumstances of the revolt, he was re- solved to transmit an account of it to their catholic majesties; and as the rebels complained of being detained on the island, a free passage was offered to si ch as were desirous of return- ing to Spain. After many altercations, it was settled that the admiral should deliver up to Roldan, the ringleader of the revolt, two good ships well provided, to transj)ort him and his adherents to Spain ; that he should issue an order for the payment of their sularies and wages to the day of their departure ; and that within fifty days from the ratification of this convention, the malecontents should quit the island. Matters being thus compromised, the admiral gave orders for equipping the ships, but from the scarcity of stores and the turbulence of the wea- ther, some time having elapsed before they could be brought round to Xaragua, the port from which the emh ' ation was to be made, lloldan changed his intentions ; a king ad- vantage of the unavoidable delay that had intervened, he renounced the stipi'^-itions, and refused to depart. The offi- cer who conducted the ships to their destined port having in vain exhorted the rebels to acquiescence in their original en- gagements, entered a protest against their proceedings; and reiurned to the admiral, to whom he reported Roldan's objec- tions. Columbus, well knowing the disaflPection of his own people, was eager to heal this new breach : and consenting to .'I conference with the rebel chief, it was stipulated, that the admiral should send home fifteen of Uoldan's followers in the first ship bound for Spain ; that those who remained on the island should have lands and houses in lieu of pay ; that an act of amnesty should be published ; and Roldan himself rein- stated in his office of perpetual judge. Having at last adjusted this irksome affair, Columbus sent out a captain with a body of men, who were to traverse the island and reduce the rebel- M M. OF C:OLlTMBUS. 51 ;hief justice , atclied from i voyage, in J, these ves- Dtlier having , he was re- ic majesties ; 1 the island, IS of return- the admiral ; revolt, two lis adherents J payment of larturc; and convention, s being thus iig the ships, ! of the wea- bc brought ' ation was king ad- ervened, he The offi- rt having in original en- tdings; and dan's objec- of his own 3nsenting to d, that the jwers in the ned on the ly ; that an limself rein- Eist adjusted vith a body e the rebel- ■■;«' lious Indians ; while he himself pr()|)ose(l ti» return to Spain, and to take his brother tlie lieiitcnant with him. In the meanwhile Alonzo de Ojedn arriviMl with four ships •from a cruize, and putting into Yacpiimi), not only coninjittcd unprovoked outrages on the Indians, but began to tam])er with the Spaniards. To these he insinuated that queen I.sa- bella was in a declining state of health, and that after her decease, Columbus would i'lwd no protection at court; but, on the contrary, would fall a victim to the enmity of Ojeda's kinsman, the intriguing bishop of Burgos. These proceedings having reached the ears of the admiral, he dispatched Roldan with 21 men against him; who, coming upon him suddenly, rendered escape or resistance impracticable. On this, Ojeda altered his tone, excused his landing on a jwetence of wanting provisions, and declared he had no inten> tion to disturb the quiet of the island. He then ixjcounted some discoveries and adventures on the coast of Paria ; and concluded with a promise, that he would soon sail round to Domingo, and have a personal interview with the admiral. Notwithstanding these professions, he sailed to the pro\inee of Xaragua, where he seducek possession of the admi- ral's palace. He then assembled all those whom he found disaft'ected to Columbus or his brother ; declared himself gii- vernor ; and, to attach the people to his mterest, proclaimed a general remissie'.i for twenty years to come. His next step was to require the admiral's presence ; and to enforce this, he dis- patched the kings lett'jr, which ran in the following tenor. It is worthy of being preserved, as it shews how little rehance is to be put in the gratitude of princes, or in the stability of favour. To D. Chr'istapher Columbus, our Admiral of the Ocean. * We have ordered the commendary, Francis de Bova- tlilla, the bearer, to acquaint you witli some things from us. Therefore we desire you to yield him entire credit and obe- dience. Given at Madrid. May 21, 1499. By command of Uivir high- nesses. Mic. Perez de AlanAazon. \ C- , r I THK KING. /^'Sn^llTHEQUEEN.^ Columbus did not hesitate to obey this summons. He set out immediately for St. Domingo, to wait on Bovadii'a, ivho clapt him and his brother Diego in irons on ship board: and placing a strong guard over him, denied him all access of his friends. A process was then instituted against the admiral and his brother: their enemies were admitted as evidences; and no depositions were .so absurd, incoherent, or malicious as to l)e rejecteil on that account It was deternuned tc convict him, that Bovadilla miglu retain his station. Bartholomew, the lieutenant, was not yet returned from Xaragua, and it is probable he nnght have rescued his brother by force of arms, had not the admiral requested him quietly to submit to the authority of the new governor. The con- sciousness of innocence would not suffer this great man to attempt a defence by force. No sooner had Bovadilla secured 54 THE THIRD VOYAGE t^ ^'1 :■, 1 ! ■ ( the persons of his brothers, than he gave positive orders to the captain of the ship, on landing, to deUver them to Fonescu, the implacable enemy of Columbus. The new governor then began to squander the king"'8 treasures among his creatures; to countenance profligacy and oppression ; and to overturn all the salutary regulations of his dminent predecessor. Andrew Martin, the captain of the vessel which carried Columbus, ashamed of seeing such a man in irons, wished to knock them off. The admiral insisted on wearing them du- ring the whole of his passage, observing, that he was resolved to keep them as a memorial of the reward of his services. This resolution he never changed : the fetters were always preserved as the most precious relics, and, at his own request, buried in the same coffin with him. On the 20th of November, 1500, having arrived at Cadiz, he wrote a letter to their majesties, giving an account of his treatment. He received a very gracious answer, in which concern for his sufferings was joined with censure of BovadiU la's conduct. He was invited to court, with a promise that he should shortly be reinstated in all his honours. On his arrival at Grenada, the king and queen confirmed by words their obliging intimations in their reply ; and assured him he should have ample satisfaction. In the mean time, having oi'dcred an investigation to take place, and the accusa- tions appearing malicious and frivolous, he was most honour- ably acquitted. A new governor was nominated for Hispaniola to redress the admiral's grievances, and to oblige Bovadilla to make restitution. This power was delegated to Nicolas do Obando, a man of abilities, but insidious and revengeful. Af the same time it was resolved, that Columbus should be sent on some voyage of profit and honour, till Obando should settle the affairs of Hispaniola. But the admiral, chagrined at the ingratitude he had experienced, and apprehensive of future disgrace from the machinations of his enemies, declined the enterprise, till he was strongly solicited by their majesties, and assured of their zealous protection. Ji wa ( W Mi the niir ab the lay ] lof 1 taki |t(J s 2Hn ship Idisr ipp isi^a : ladni OF COLUMBUS. 55 e orders to the m to Fonestui, governor then ; his creatures ; to overturn all sor. which carried •ons, wished to iring tliem du- le was resolved services. This ways preserved uest, buried in rived at Cadiz, account of his iwer, in which ire of Bovadil- a promise that rs. neen confirmed and assured le mean time, md the accusa- most honour- br Hispaniola Bovadilla to to Nicolas do engeful. Ar lould be sent o should settle agrincd at the sive of future declined the majesties, and lo THE FOURTH AND LAST VOYAGE OF COLUMBUS. A SQUADRON of four ships, with 140 me*^ on board, be- ing equipped, under the superintendence of Columbus, he ^set sail from Cadiz on tiie 9th of May, 1501, for Arzilla, in rder to relieve the Portuguese, who were reported to be in reat distress ; but before he arrived, the Moors had raised he siege. He therefijre proceeded immediately for the Grand Canary, where he arrived on the 20th, and took in wood and gwater for his voyage. On the evening of the 25th he weighed and stood for the -'est Indies, with such a propitious gale, that he reached lartinico on the 15th of June ; and soon after, standing to he westward, among the Caribbee islands, he steeretl lor Do- ingo, with a view of changing one his ships which proved a bad sailor; and hoping afterwards i«> continue liis voyage to the coast of Paria, in quest of the strait whicij he supposed lay near Vuagua and Nombre de Dios. But that the new governor, sent out to regulate the affairs f the colony and to recal Bovadilla, might not appear o be aken by surprise, he dispatched before him one of his caj tains [J signify the reason of his pursuing this course. So little in- Uned was the governor to assist the admiral with another hip, he would not even allow him to enter the port; ...d [disregarding the prediction of Columbus, who foresaw an pproaching storm, permitted a fleet of eighteen sail to put to sea for Spain, having on bonrd Bt)vadiila, and the rest of the admiraPs opponents. 56 THE FOURTH AND LAST VOYAGE u ■1I i I ' This squadron, however, liad hardly weathered the eastern extremity of Hispaniohi, before they were overtaken by a terri- ble tempest, in which tlie commodore, with Bovadilla and almost all the principal rebels foundered, and not more than three or four ships of the whole were saved ; whilr Columbus, aware of the impending danger, sheltered himself under the land in the best position he could. But the wind soon rose to a perfect hurricane, and his three consorts were ♦arced out to sea. The Bermuda, commanded by Bartholomew Columbus, was saved by the admirable skill and dexterity of this accomplished sea> man ; being a bad sailer, her danger bad been most imminent. In a few days, the ships all joined the admiral in the port of I Azua. Though a revengeful temper and a superstitious mind might have found consolation in the idea, that this dreadful tempest had been the destruction of his enemies, Columbus felt more chagrin than satisfaction when he reflected, that he was denied shelter in that very country he had discovered and annexed to the crown of Spain, in whose service he still la- boured. His enemies, less liberal, less enlightened, ascribed this storm to magic ; and to give weight to this belief, the only ship out of eighteen that arrived in Spain was the Aguja, on I board of which were 4,000 pesos of gold, the property of the admiral. Unwilling to enter into disputes with the governor, Colum- bus refreshed his men in the best manner he could in the port I of Azua, and thenpe sailed to a harbour of Brasil, called! Gracchimo by the Indians. Leaving tliis, he was so becalmed, that instead of continuing his course, he wae carried by the currents near Jamaica. However, after some delay, standing southward for th»» continent, he reached the islands of Gua- nara, near the country now called Honduras, where Bartho- lomew landed, and found a numerous population, and some pieces of lapis calaminaris, which the seamen mistook for gold. While he remained here, he descried a large cunoe, I with an awning made oi palm tree leaves, under which the women and children were sheltered from the weather ; and though the vessel was mannt ' by 25 stout Indians, they suf- fered themselves to be captured without the least resistance. ' OF COLUMBUS. 57 it resistance. This vessel being replete with goods and domestic utensils, gave him a favourable opportunity of becoming acquainted with the commodities of the country. On examining the car- go, it was found to consist of quilts and cotton shirts of various colours, together with long sheets, in which the women wrap- ped themselves, long wooden swords, sharpened on each side with flints, hatchets, and copper bells. The provisions con- sisted of such roots and grain as were usual in Hispaniola, and a kind of fermented liquor made from miuzc. They had likewise abundance of cocoa-nuts, which being the representa- tive of coin here, were proportionably valued. The people seemed to have a due sense of modesty and decency ; which decorum of manners made such a favourable impression on the admiral, that he ordered them to be treated with peculiar respect, restored tlieir canoe, exchanged for European articles such commodities as he wished to retain, and dismissed them well pleased. One old man, however, who cheerfully under- took the office of interpreter, and seemed to be a person of character among his countrymen, was kept during the course of the voyage ; and having acquitted himself with fidelity in the department he undertook, was at last discharged with many valuable presents. Though the admiral soon learned from this intelligent guide that a people of great wealth, politeness, and ingenuity, in- habited a country to the westward ; yet, conceiving he could at any time sail thither from Cuba, for the present he resolved to explore the imagined strait in the continent, through which he might penetrate Into the South sea, and thus reach the spice country. A. misconception of the Indian's meaning had given rise to the supposition that such a strwt existed : they intended to descril>e an isthmus, ^which Columbus mistook for a narrow gulph, extending from sea to sea. In quest of this strait, he sailed towards a point on the continent, which he named Casiuus, from the quantity of trees growing there, bearing a fruit so called by the Hispaniolans. In the vicinity of this caj^e, he saw people with painted shirts, like coats of mail, sufficientlv strong to defend them asrainst the weapons of that country, or even the strpke of a sword \oh. I. H 58 THE FOURTH AND LAST VOYAGE Farther to the eastward, near cape Gracios a Dios, the natives were of a savage aspect, and cannibals. Sailing still to wind- ward, on Sunday, August 14, 1502, Bartholomew Columbus with a large party went ashore to hear mass, and on the fol. lowing Wednesday, took possession of the country for their catholic majesties. Immediately, above 100 Indians laden with provisions ran down to the shore; but perceiving the boats, suddenly retired in silence. The lieutenant ascribing this to timidity, employed the interpreter to ingratiate himself with them by means of trinkets and bells, which were so accept- able, that r.cxt day tliey returned in greater numbers, bring. ing with them hens, geese, fish, and other kinds of provisions. The country, tliough low, was beautifully verdant ; producing pines, oaks, palms, and mirabolans. Among the quadrupeds were deer, and a species of leopard. The features of the in- habitants resembled those of the islands already described: they covered their loins ; and every nation spoke a language of -its own. Their bodies and arms were ornamentee set at liberty. This detentio.^ however, was ascribed to avarice; and next day, four ambassadors arrived with a present of two wild hogs to ransom their countrymen. The deputies were treated with the greatest civility, well re- paid for their hogs, and sent away satisfied that no harm would befal their comrades on board. One of the sailors having caught a wild cat of extraordinary size, compared with the same animal in Europe, the crew entertained themselves with letting it loose on one of the hogs which had been brought for a present. Though naturally very ferocious, no sooner did it see the cat than it ran alxiut the deck in a fright. The admiral perceiving this, ordered a hog to be brought near the cat in confinement, which imme- diately winding its tail about the hog's snout, and with its fore leg fastened on the poll, would soon have dispatclied it, had not the attendants interposed. From these circumstances it was clear, that those cats hunt like the European wolves. On the 5th of October, the admiral entered the spacious bay of Carovaro, in which are many islets. On one of these small islands they discovered twenty canoes, and their crews hard by them on the shore, without the '"ast article of dress or ornament, save little plates of gold round their necks. These betrayed no symptoms of fear, but readily exchangetl a gold plate weighing ten ducats For three horse-bells ; and gave the Spaniards the agreeable intimation, that gold was abundant in that neighbourhood. Next day, a boat's crew met with ten canoes full of people, Vfho declining to part with their gold plates, the admiral or- dered two of them to be taken, for the sake of obtaining infor- mation by means of the Cariari interpreterr. These confirmed, tlie report of gold being found at the distance of two days' journey up the country. Sailing from thence, the admiral, some days after, entered the river Guaiga, where his boats were violently assaulted by a party of 100 Indians ; who resolutely ran into the water up K. lGE m 'm OF COLUMBUS. 61 nts, assunng other reason A short space lowever, was idors arrived countrymen, lity, well re- ► harm would 'xtraordinary pe, the crew le of the hogs igh naturally 1 it ran about lis, ordered a which imnie- and with its dispatched it, circumstances an wolves, the spacious I one of these d their crews tide of dress their necks, exchanged a Is ; and gave was abun(|?*nt iiil of people, admiral or- tainhig infor- ese confirmed, of two days' ifter, entered assaulted by the water up ■a ill to the middle, brandishing lances, blowing horns, and showing every mark of aversion and defiance. The peaceable demean- our of the Spaniards soon appeased these hostile menaces; ard tor a few horsv^-bells, the natives exchanged gold plates to the value of 150 ducats. Next day, however, they lay in ambuscade, and perceiving that no one would venture to land without security, they rushed into the water, and repeated the same insults as on the preceding day. The Spaniards being exasperated at their insolence, wounded one of them with an arrow ; and, at the same time, a cannon being fired, they fled in the greatest consternation. Then four men land- ing, invited them by signs to return ; on which they laid down their arms, and entered into peaceable traffic. Columbus having procured specimens of the pn)duce of this part of the country, proceeded to Catilia ; and casting anchor in the mouth of a large river, saw the natives preparing for defence. However, they sent two deputies alongside in a canoe; and these having discoursed with the interpreters, came on board the admiral, and presented him with their plates, for which he made them a satisfactory return. Amity being thus established, the Spaniards went ashore, and found the king surrounded by a number of his subjects, from whom he was in no respect distinguished, but by a single leaf of a tree, which in some degree protected him from the rain. The sovereign having first exchanged his gold plate, his people speedily followed his example. At this place was seen a con> siderable'mass of wall, apparently constructed of stone and lime ; the first trace that had beer, discovered of architectural skill in the new world. Passing to the eastward, the admiral passed Cobravo, and several towns of great trade, among which was Veragua, where the Indians said the gold was col- lected, and the plates made. On the 2d of November, he entered a harbour^ to which he gave the appellation of Porto Bello, from its beautiful situation. The weather proving un- favourable for proceeding, he continued here for seven days, during which space, a constant communication and commerce was kept up with the natives 62 THE FOURTH AND LAST VOYAGE ■\ 1 % "'•!;i' ii Leaving Porto Bello, the admiral directed his course to the eastward ; but next day was torced back ; and running in among the islands near the continent, where tlic town of Nom- bre do Dios now stands, called the place Puerto de J^astimcn- tos, from the quantity of provisions. A lx)at, well manned, being sent in pursuit of a canoe, the Indians on board it were so terrified, that they leaped into the sea, and in spite of all the efforts of the Spaniards, escaped by dint of diving and swimming. Here Columbus remained for a fortnight, when he sailed for Guiga, where a body of 300 Indians appeared ready to open a trade with the Spaniards. Without making any delay here, he put into a small confined port, which ho named Hetretc, capable of containing no more than six ships, with an entrance not more than twenty pac«?s wide. In this \ tce he lay nine days, at first trading very familiarly with the Indians, till the insolence of one of the sailors provoked them to open hostility. Their courage encreasing daily with their numbers, and the admiral having in vain endeavoured to allay the commotion, found it absolutely necessary to alter his de- portment, to prevent their aggression. He therefore ordered his men to fire some pieces of cannon, which they answered with noise and vociferation, as if they despised the explosion, which they believed to be the effect of thunder. On this, one of the great guns was loaded with shot, and the ball falling iii the midst of a party assembled on a hillock, convinced them that they had something more than noise to apprehend. Ever alter they kept out of sight. These people were tall and well shaped. In the hai'lx)ur, alligators were nimierous. These animals slept ashore, and emitted a musky scent. They ap- peared ravenous when they could take advantage ; but cow- ardly when attacked. The admiral perceiving that the winds continued to blow with violence from the eastern quarter, and that he was pre- cluded from trading with the inhabitants of this coast, resolved to satisfy himself in regard to the authenticity of the report. concerning the mines of Veragua, and accordingly sailed back to Porto Bello. A.GE OV COLUMBUS. 60 course to the i running in own of Nom- de DaHtiincn- A'ell manned, board it were n spite of all >f diving and •tnight, when ans appeared tliout making )rt, wliich he han six ships, vide. In this liarly with the rovokcd them lily with their oured to allay ) alter his de- efore ordered ley answered le explosion, On this, one ball faUing iii winced them >hend. Ever tall and well I'ous. These They ap- te; but cow- Next day, the wind shifted ; and for some time tlie weather was so Iwisterous, that a man could scarcely stand on the deck. The clouds seemed to be melting into a deluge; the whole air appeared like a sheet of lightning; and the thunder rolled incessantly over their heads. The mariners, worn out with f?'.tigue, and terrified with the unusual commotion of the elements, were driven to despair. Amidst this danger and distraction, they were in the utmost peril of being overwhelmed by a dreadful water-spout, which rising from the sea, about the thickness of a butt, seemed to reach the clouds, and burst with a tremendous roar. To darken their prospect, they lost sight of one of the ships; and it was not till the end of three days, that they found she was safe. At this crisis, when hope was almost lost, a calm ensued of two days' continuance, during which they were surrounded by sharks so voracious, that they were caught with any bait. In the belly of one, an entire turtle was found alive. Though these fishes were regarded as ominous, and their flesh but in- different food, the sailors beginning to be pressed with famine, ate them with gi*eat eagerness. Indeed, all their sea stores were consumed, except their biscuit ; and this was so full of maggots, from the heat and moisture of the climate, that they generally ate it in the dark, to conceal the disgust of the ver- min with which it was filled. On the 17th of December, Columbus reposed his crews for three days in a harlwur east of Pennon, called Huiva by tha natives. Here they observed, that the natives lived in huts erected in the tops of trees, to secure them from wild beasts and land floods, or enemies of their own species ; for war fre- quently raged along the coast. On quitting this harbour, a new storm arose, and they were obliged to take shelter in another port. The 3d of next month, the weather became more mo- derate ; but as if providence had resolved to thwart the expe- dition, no sooner were they again under sail, than the wind freshened and became contrary ; and they were buffeted about by the waves, till they were driven back to one of their former ports. 64 THE FOURTH AND LAST VOYAGE I I'i-i :!' I Mlii Afler some repairs, and laying in a fresh stock of such pro. visions as the country supplied, Columbus once more set out ; but he was so perplexed with currents, and fatigued with tempests and contrary winds, that he gave thiw tioasii the ap. propriate name of De Contrastes, or the Coast of Contention At last he reached the river of Veragua, whose waters were very f^hallow ; but the boats proceeded up to the town, near which the gold mines were said to lie. At first the Indians stood on their guard, and menaced opposition ; but our In- dian interpreter giving a favourable representation of the views and conduct of the strangers, they were appeased ; and bar- tered away twenty plates of gold, and some grains of the same metal in their native state, which they said had been tollected in desolate mountains, at a very great distance. Two of the ships, with the admiral on board, went up a river in the vicinity, to which he had given the appell ition of Bethlem ; and here they found the Indians ready to exchange their commodities, particularly fish, which at certain seasons of the year swam up the rivers in incredible shoals. The otlicr ships having joined, Bartholomew, the lieutenant, went up the river with the boats to the city of Quibio ; and the king hearing of his design, in token of friendship, met him In his canoe. Next day he visited the admiral, and after .>n hour's conversation, and an interchange of presents, ho departed ex- tremely gratified. Soon after, the river swelled by the floods so suddenly and so high, that the admiral's ship parted her cable, and ran foul of another vessel, by which accident both were in imminent danger of being lost. This prodigious rise was supposed to be occasioned by some cloud having burjt on the lofty mountains of Veragua. On the 6th of February, 1503, the lieutenant and 68 men| ascended the river to the cazique's town, on purpose to en- quire the nearest road to the mines. In consequence of tliej intelligence received, they travelled several leagues, and ar-[ riving at, th^ place where they were directed, gathered somel gold about the roots of large and lofty trees. As the sole aim I V: AGE c of such pro. more set out ; fatigued with i coast the ap- [)f Contention se waters were he town, near st the Indians ; but our In- on of the views ised; and bar- ins of the same [ been •ollected ard, went up a ic appell »tion of idy to exchange certain seasons le shoals. The ieutenant, went ) ; and the king met him in his after vn h^ur s ho departed ex- |so suddenly and ►le, and ran foul ire in imminent supposed to be lofty mountains ant and 68 meni purpose to enl isequence of tbej leagues, and ar-r gathered somel As the sole aim OF COLUMBUS. G5 ■' ■^: >v. of the journey was to obtain information respecting tlie mines, the party returned well pleased with their adventure ; though it afterwards appeared, that the mines of Veragua lay much nearer, and that they had been purposely sent to the mines of Urira, a nation at war with Quibio. A few days having elapsed, th.i lieutenant with 50 rrwn set out again for the river Urira, seven leagues westward of Beth- lem ; and next day had an interview with the cazique, when some plates of gold were exchanged. The Spaniards were then conducted to the town, where they were hospitably enter- tained and lodged. Soon alter their arrival at this place, the neighbouring cazique of Dururi waited on them: he had a numerous retinue, and several plates of gold were bartered by his people. The news of gold being found most grateful to the ears of tlie Spaniards, this cazique pleased the lieutenant, by informing him, that in the interior parts there were ca- zir ucs who possessed abundance of gold, and maintained armed men like the Spaniards. Bartholomew sending back a part of his men to the ships, proceeded with the remainder to Zobarba, where he saw about six leagues of ground full of maize, in good cultivation. Here the natives were kindly attentive; and furnished him with some plates of gold ; but having advanced a great way from the ships, and found out no place more convenient for a colony, which it was intended to settle, than Bethlem, he returned with a good quantity of gold, and a resolution was now taken to leave a colony here of 80 men under his command. The necessary dispositions being made, they began to erect timber houses, covered with palm leaves, in the vicinity of Bethlem river ; and several pieces of cannon, ammunition, and provi- sions were lodged in the magazine apart ; while other stores were placed on board one of the ships, the Gallega, for the use of the colony. As fish abounded on the coast, they had an am- ple supply of nets and other fishing tackle. The Indian mode of catching fish here was with hooks made of tortoise shell. Pilchards were their usual prey. In the middle of their ca- noes, from stem to stern, thev had a partition z{ palm leaves Vol I. I 66 THE FOURTH AND LAST VOYAuE !i|?ife two yards high ; and plying about the river, made a noise with their oars so as to alarm the fish, which mistaking the leaves for land, frequently darted against them, and fell into the canoe. Their principal beverage was a kind of beer n^ade of maize. They also made a pleasant wine of palms. Every thing having been provided for the comfort and se- curity of the new colony, the admiral was determined to return to Spain ; wh n his voyage was elfectually retarded by the lowness of the water in the river, which could not float his ships, as well as by a terrible surf, which threatened destruc- tion to any vessel on the shore. This cu'cumstancc v,as the more u'lfortunate, as the rains were past, which alone could swell the river ; and the ships' bottoms were perfectly worm- eaten. To complete the calamity, it was casually discovered, that Quibio intended to destroy the settlement, as having be^n formed contrary to his inclination, and that of his people. In this dangerous dilemma, the admiral concerted measures with his brother. It was therefore proposed to take the cazique and his principal men prisoners, and to carry them hostages to Spain. Accordingly, the lieutenant and 70 men proceeded to the village of Veragua, A\lK're lie received a message from the cazique, dcsinng he would come up to his house, whicli stood apart on a hill. He had nov- occasion for all his address. He resolved to a<^'cept the invitation rtitli five men only ; having ordered the rest to ibllow two and two at some disiancf, and, on hearing the report of a musket, immediately to surround the house. Quibio meeting the lieutenant at the diK)r, was immediately seized ; and the sif;nal being given, the Spaniards encircled the house. The prince being taken, about 30 at- tendants made nt? opposition. But as they were conveying the cazique on bo.-ird, he found r'eanw to leap into the river ; and darkness setting in, it was impossible to recover him, or to know the event. After a fruitless search, the party returned overwhelmed 'vith shame and vexation. Finding it impracticable to recover the fugitive Indian, the lieutenant and his men cu?ne on board the admiral, and pre- sented the phuider of Quibio's house, wliicli was piCtty consi- .'VS Iff OF COLUMBUS. 67 a noise iking the fell into eer made t and se- t<> return 1 by the float his destruc- «' v,as the me could ly worm- scovered, i^ins: be<^n ople. In ures with e cazique hostages proceeded sage from ^e, which address. ; having Iticf, and, surround oor, was paniards It 30 at- onveying he river ; him, or returned dian, tlie and pre- ty consi- I >^ii?,» derable. A fifth part was deducted for their catholic majes- ties, and the rest distributed among the party engaged in the expedition. The river l)eing again swelled by the rains, Columbus found means, though with much difficulty, to get over the bar into the sea. He then waited for a fair wind to carry him to Hispaniola, from whence he purposed pending supplies to his new settlement. During this interval, the boat providentially went ashore, and was the probable salvation of a number of Spaniards. For Quibio no sooner saw the ships at sea, than he resolved to attack the settlement; and the surrounding woods facilitated the enterprize. But the lieutenant, with un- daunted resolution, sallied out on the enemy, and compelled the savages to retire, just as the boat reached the shore. In this encounter, a Spaniard was killed and seven wounded, among whom was the lieutenant himself The enemy, however, again and again returned to the charge ; and the spirit of the Euro-, peans was thus broken, as well as their number reduced. Meanwhile the adyiiral waited impatiently for favourable wealher to send the only boat ashore which remained, for intel- ligence previous to his leaving the coast ; and in this interval, some of rhe prisoners escaped in the night, and the rest hanged themselves in despair ; so that no hostages for Quibio's peace- ful (iemeanour were letl. From the inclemency of the ele- menl^', no boat cuvdd live; and the anxiety of Columbus increasing, he engaged one of his pilots to swinv a.shore for intelligence. This hazardous enterprize he happily accom- plished, and returned with a melancholy detail ot attacks without and animosities within. Bartholomew found it im- practicable to maintain his authority ; and thd settlers were unanimous in nothing but in (|uittiiig the place. The admiral seeing no other alternative than to expose the settlers, among whom was his own brother, to certain destruction, or to take them on board, did not hesitate what line of conduct to pur- sue. He received and accommodated the colonists in the best manner that the circumstances of his ships could permit. All the goods and stores were carried off; and nothing of va- lue left, -xcept the hulk ol' the ship intended for the use of 68 THE FOURTH AND LAST VOYAGE the settlement, which was found too rotten to be of further service. The admiral havipg yielded to imperious circumstances, which frustrated his reasonable expectations of deriving credit and advantage from erecting a settlement on the continent, sailed along the coast to the eastward, contrary to the judg- ment of all his pilots, who thought it possible to reach Do- mingo by bearing to the north. The superior nautical skill of Columbus and his brother taught them otherwise. They were nevertheless exposed to the obloquy of ignorance ; and murmurs and apprehensions were spread that he had it in con- templation to sail directly for Spain, without having provisions adequate to the voyage. Having reached Porto Bello, he was obliged to leave ano- ther of his sliips, which was totally decayed. He tlien passed Porto lletrete, together with a number of minute islands; and having weathered the ix)int of Marmora on the continent on the 1st of May, he stood to the north, with both wind and currents setting from the east. The principal navigators affirmed that he was already to the eastward of the Caribbees ; but he himself was fearful he should not yet be able to fetch HIspaniola, and his judgment was verified. After a run of several days, he founil himself among the islands called the Queen's Garden, ten leagues to the southward of Cuba. JJy this time, the ships were so leaky that they could scarcely be managed by the pumps; the strength of the crews was exhausted ; and they were at a short allowance of very indifferent fare, had it been unlimited. In this melancholy situation, they were overtaken by a storm. The two ships ran foul of each other, and had nearly foun- dered : however, providence again favoured the admiral ; with difficulty they got clear, and dropped their anchors. AVhat increased their thankfulness was, to find in the morning, that only one strand of tlie cable was left uncut : had this given way, they must have been dashed on pf/lnted rocks. The weather having become moderate, Columbus sailed to an Indian town in Cuba, named Mattaia, where he laid in «ome refreshments. 13ut finding it inqwissible to bear up foe OF COLUMBUS. m f further ^| nstances, [^ ng credit ;| untinent, M ach Do- '^ ical skill ^j ice; and M t in con- H ro visions n ave ano- ■ n passed H islands ; ■ ontinent m »'ind and H eady to M irful he H dgment 9 himself giies to o leaky s ; the a sliort d. In storm. r foun- ; with Wliat , that given led to lid in ip ibp Ilispaniola, he stood over to Jamaica, with the ships almost full of water, in spite of all their exertions. At last he reached the harbour of Santa Gloria, well guarded by rocks; and finding it impossible to keep the ships longer afloat, he run Ithem aground, side by side, and on'ered sheds to be made on (their decks for the protection of his men. By this expedient le had the crews more under controul than if they had been in land, and better guarded from any attack of the natives, ith that wisdom whicti always marked his conduct, he ap- tinted two persons to superintend the market, that equal lustice might be done on both sides ; and the Indians, sure »f honourable treatment, might be ready to supply him with »ro visions, or to engage in traffic. TJiese regulations were like grateful to his own men, who were well supplied, and to le Indians, who frequently exchanged their animals and pro- isions for a bit of tin, a few glass beads, or a hawk''s bell. A !hief was sometimes complimented with a red cap, a small looking-glass, or a pair of scissars. But though they were now freed from the pressure of want ind immediate danger, this was iK)t the scene of iheir rest. The admiral next consulted how to transport the party to iispaniola, and after mature deliberation, it was resolved that ;wo canoes should be dispatched thither with an account of ;heir misfortunes, and a pressing solicitation to the governor, scmd a ship for their relief James Mendez de Segura, the idmiraPs secretary, cmbaiked in one canoe with sixteen men, [Spaniards and Indians; and the command of the other was ;iven to Bartholomew Friosco, a Genoese gentleman, who had he same number of hands. This last had orders to return [immediately with the news of their safe arrival ; while Mendez jshould continue his route over land to St. Domingo. The men left, soon began to grow sickly from the fatigue tliey had undergone, and a change of diet ; and illness always fosters a spirit of discontent. They now caballed against the adn)iral, as if he had no wish to return to Spain; they antici- pated the refusal of the governor of Hispaniola to grant any jHsistauce from his previous conduct; they even suggested tlmt the canoes were lost, or some tidings would have been 70 THE FOURTH AND LAST VOYAGE received from the secretary. Hence they concluded that i! was their best plan to leave the admiral, who was very ill of the -rout, and to fellow their c*)mpanions to Hispaniola, where| their desertion V M« Id he a passport to the governor's favour/ Two brotliors oF the name of Porras \tere the suggesters andl supporters of these sentiments ; and as the bishop of Burgos, i the sworn foe of Columbus, kept one of their sisters in tliJ quality of concubine, they did not doubt but ihey should nieetl with protection in Spain. These insinuations had their fullj effect ; and about 48 of the men having fallen into their line, preparations were diligently made for the execution of theitj designs. Matters being ripe for a discovery, tm the 2d of January,! 1504, captain Francis de Porras, who had been elected leader, ascending the quarter-deck, where the admiral lay confined inl his bed, insolently demanded the reason why he did not return! to Spain, but kept his men to perish in such a sitjati«m. Co.| lumbus, suspecting a conspiracy, calmly replied, that it wjlJ impossible to return to Spain without a vessel ; that both intcj rest and duty prompted him to be gone; and that for thcl gratitication of his people, he would summon all his officerl to consult on the means of forwarding their wishes. This mildl remonstrance had no effect on Porras. He said it was now) too late to waste words ; that if the admiral did not immedi- ately embark, he might stay alone. Then raising his voice.l he exclaimed, ' I am going to Spain with those who are in- clined to follow me."* By this his adherents joined in the! exclamation, and immediately took possession of different partij of the ship, so that uproar and confusion were universal. Thcl noise of the tuiuult roused the admiral from bis bed of sick- 1 he started up, and was only withheld from rushing intol iiess the midst of the conspirators, by the affectionate restrains of his servants, who dreaded he might be murdered. The lieu- 1 tenant, after bravely rushing out on the mutineers, was dis- armed and confined, having in vain cautioned Porras to reflecll on his conduct, which would meet with exemplary punishment. The ringleader disregarded tins advice, and seizing ten canoes I which had been purchased of the Indians by Columbus, cm- OF COLUMBUS. 71 jarked with all his adherents, who oxpicssed the same exulta- ion as if they had already been laiuled in Spain. On this ccasion, some who had not joined in the conspiracy, despair- ing now of relief, desirec' to be taken on boaid, to the infinite regret of the admiral and his few remaining followers. Had jthe whole been in health, it is probable that none but his bro- icr and his domestics would have remained in thei'- duty. The mutineers coasting along the cast side of -lymaica, )mmitted all manner of outrages on t!ie natives, and desii-ed lem to apply for n^dress and inclonuiity to the admiral, who ms the author of all their calamities ; and to put him to death, |hould he deny them satisfaction. Having carried their maliif c iar as dmbolical invention rould go, they began their vov^:^. lor Hispaniola, with some Indians, whom they compelled to act as rowers. Tiicy had kot, however, made four leagues from land, when the wind, irhich was contrary, began to freshen, and the sea to rise and fill the canoes. Being unacquainted with the mode of navi- i[ating such vessels, they thought to lighttui them by murdering le Indians, and throwing their bodies into the ocean. This Inhuman design they executed on some; others being thrown Verboard alive, swam till they were exhaui^ted, then hanging |)y the canoes for breath, the detestable monst(?rs cut off their lands ; and in this manner eighteen perished. Probably not |)ne would have escaped, had not a few been saved out of a bruel charity to carry them back to Jamaica ; as they found it Impracticable to proceed. Having relanded on this island, a )uncil was held ; when some })r()posed that they should take Ivantage of the winds and currents to run over to Cuba, ^fhence^the passage to Hispaniola was short; others advised ittempting to make their peace with the ailmiral ; but a majo- rity of votes agreed, that after it became calm, they should )ursue their former voyage. Having waited a month for a favourable opportunity of leaving the island, and having made two unsuccessful efforts, they at last marched by land to the i^estward, plundering the natives as they advanced. The first care of the admiral was to efface the bad impres- sions which the mutineers had made on the Indians, and in ■■i 78 THE FOURTH AND LAST VOYAGE is ''I I'l: this he fortunately succeeded; for they supplied him with provisions as before. His next object was to recover h poo. pie by the supplies he could procure for their relief. Bui the Indians attending no further to agriculture than was absolutely necessary for their own subsistence, began to ft>el a scarcity ; and the admiral being in a situation that no longer challenged obedience and respect, they became indifferent about his wants. The sagacity of Columbus, ever prompt at! expedients, supplied him with a most extraordinary resource for retrieving his character and credit with the savages. Know, ing by calculations that in three days there would be an eclipse of the moon, he sent an Indian of Hispaniola to assemble thei chiefs of the district, on an affair of importance to them alii Having obeyed the summons, he told them by his interpreter, ';il that he and his people were Christians, and believed in G( who created the heavens and the earth, protected the right-, eous, and punished the wicked, and therefore would noij suffer the rebellious Spaniards to pass over to Hispaniola,! though he had by his providence conducted the messengei>f sent by him, because their design was laudable; that tliel same almighty and all-just Being was incensed against thej Indians for becoming negligent in supplying his people witlil provisions, and was determined to punish them with plaguel and famine. As a token of which, they would that verj night see the moon rise with an angry and bloody aspect, toj denote the misfortunes that were about to ensue. As fear or belief operated on the mind, this prophecy hadj different effects. But when they perceived the moon in roalitjf ocUpsed, and darkness encreasing as she rose, universal con.[ sternation prevailed. They came running from all quarters, laden with provisions; and with loud cries and lamentations supplicated the admiral to intercede with God in their behalf; and that for the future they would be attentive to all his wants. Having obtained this promise, Columbus said he would use I his influence with the Supreme; and accordingly shut himself up, while the Indians remained without, howling in the must piteous manner, and imploring his assistance. When he per- ceived the eclipse about to decrease, he came out, and bade OF COLUMBUS. 73 them be of good cheer ; his prayers for them had been heard, and that Grod had forgiven them, on condition of their being kind and hospitable to the Christians. In confirmation of this, he assured them, they would speedily see the moon lay aside her wrathful aspect, atid shine with her former splen- dour. This prognostic being verified, they adored the Grod of the Christians; and ever after continued to supply him an^ his men to the utmost of their abilities ; for though they must have observed eclipses before, they tiiought it impossible to predict them, and therefore considered Columbus as an im- mediate agent of the Deity. On a review of this artifice, we cannot refrain from observing, that it was strongly tinctured . with impiety and presumption ; but it was surely less culpable than many which the professed servants of the Supreme Being have used for less honourable ends. Eight months had now elapsed since the departure of the messengers to Hispaniola ; and even the firmest resolution be- gan to waver. It was generally supposed they had perished in the sea, or been massacred by the Hispaniolian Indians. — These apprehensions were confirmed by the information of some of the natives of Jamaica, who said they had seen a canoe, overset, driven on the coast by the tide. Every day adding strength to fear, a new conspiracy was formed ; at the head of which was one Bernard, an apothecary. The plan was to desert the admiral in imitation of the former mutineers ; but happily this was rendered abortive by the arrival of a ship from Hispaniola. The captain, whose name was James de Escobar, having come to an anchor, visited the admiral with compliments from the governor, who being, he said, unpro- vided with a ship sufficient for the purpose of transporting so many men, had sent him a present of a cask of wine and two flitches of bacon. Having delivered this commission, without waiting for a reply, he weighed anchor, and sailed again the same evening. Though Columbus was stung to the soul by this abrupt departure, he concealed his emotion ; and affected to say, that the cai'aval had sailed by his directions ; l)ecause l)eing too small to take the whole party, he was determined Vol. I— (4) K I: 74, THE FOURTH AND LAST VOYAGE they should not be separated. This declaration once more silenced the conspirators. But the truth was, the governor ol' Hispaniola, being jealous lest Columbus, on his return to Spain, should supercede him, had sent to reconnoitre his situa- tion, with a view of destroying him. By the arrival of this ship, however, Columbus had received undoubted intelligence, that his messengers had been able to discharge their mission ; and he indulged the hope, that their remonstrances would procure him at last the wished for relief. These resolute adventurers, faithful to their charge, had contended with many difficulties in their passage, but at last surmounted them all. For two days they continued rowing and paddling, during which they sustained the extremes of thirst, heat, and fatigue; and some of the Indians actually died for want of refreshment. At the end of the second day, they began to suspect that they had missed the right course, and despondency began to seize them ; but observing the moon rise over land, which proved to be a small island about eight leagues from Hispaniola, their hopes revived with the prospect. For this spot they rowed with intense efforts ; and next morn- ing going ashore, found it barren and desolate; but it fiu*- nished water, of which some drank to such an excess, as to produce dropsies and other dangerous distempers. Having refreshed themselves in the best manner they could, they steered their course for cape St. Michael, the nearest land in Hispaniola, where they safely arrived. Fiesco, having reposed himself two days, would have returned to the admiral as agreed, but neither sailors nor Indians would accompany him. As for Mendez, though he laboured under a quartan ague, he set out %nmediately for Xaragua, and set forth the admiraPs situ- ation to the governor; who, after much importunity, gave him permission to purchase a ship at St. Domingo. This vessel Afterwards sailed for Jamaica, from whence Columbus dispatched her, with packets for their catholic majesties. A desire of reconciliation for the benefit of all parties, prompted the admiral to attempt to bring the Porras back to their duty. To enforce his arguments, he set before them the prospect of a speedy voyage to their own country ; inform- OF COLUMBUS. 13 had Having I, they land in eposed reed. As for he set IVfi situ- gave This lumbus )artics, )ack to them Inform - hig them he had received a promise of being reheved by a caraval from Hispaniola ; and in confirmation of the truth of this, he sent them a part of his presents. The ring-leaders dreading a re-union, employed all their eloquence to dissuade their adherents from accepting their proposals ; and word was sent back, that they were ready to depart peaceably for His- paniola if the admiral would furnish them with a vessel : or if he had but one, assign one half of it for their accommodation ; and in the meantime divide the clothes and commodities, in his possession, with them. To this arrogant demand was added a threat, that if he refused to comply, they would come and strip him by force. This menace they actually resolved to put into execution^ and marched down within a short distance of their wrecks. Columbus being informed of their intention, detached 50 men well armed, under the command of his brother, enjoining him to expostulate with the rebels, and to refrain from hostilities, unless first attacked. The lieutenant having advanced within bow-shot of the mutineers, desired a conference with their captain. This condescension being ascribed to fear, was treated with contempt; and they immediately fell upon his men in sure hopes of victory. Their expectations, however, were disappointed. At the first charge, five out of six of the most resolute, who had sworn to cut their way through, were brought to the ground, and among them the two most daring of the conspirators. As for their leader, Francis de Porras, he was taken pri- soner ; when the rest turned their backs and fled. The lieu- tenant, having gained a complete victory, returned to the ships with his prisoners. Himself was wounded in the hand, and another gentleman, being pierced with a spear, afterwards died. This was the only loss that the friends of Columbus sustained. The intrepid pilot, indeed, who swam ashore as formerly mentioned, had a most miraculous escape for his life. This man being spent with wounds, fell over the rocks during the fray, and was not discovered till the next evening, when some Indians found him still alive. His skull was laid open, so that his brains appeared ; his arm w&s almost amputated ; 70 FOURTH AND LAST VOYAGE the calf of one leg hung by a ligament ; and one foot wa» sliced from the heel to the toes. Notwithstanding these des- perate wounds, he so terrified the Indians who approached him, with curses and threats, that they fled in the utmost consternation ; but the admiral being apprised of his situation, ordered him all the medical assistance in his power, and, to the surprise of every one, he recovered. Tu prevent future animosities, and a scarcity of provisions on board, the admiral detained Porras in confinement; and appointed a proper person to command and lead about the captive malecontents, for the convenience of finding subsist- ence, in exchange for such commodities as they had been supplied with. All dissensions among the Spaniards being thus compobed, the Indians became sensible of the danger of giving them of- fence ; and assiduously supplied them with provisions. A year had now elapsed since the Spaniards were wrecked at Jamaica. The ship which Mendez had purchased, at last arrived; and Columbus, with his whole com|^any, embarked on the S8th of June, and, after a troublesome voyage, reached St. Domingo on the 13th of August, 1504. Here the governor received him with the most fawning attentions ; but as a proof that his hospitalities were only affectation, he set Porras at liberty, and even threatened to punish those who had been active in apprehending him. As soon as the admiraPs ship had been refitted, and another engaged for the accommodation of his friends, he sailed for Europe on the Sd of September. But before they had been two leagues at sea, the mast of his con- sort came by the board, on which she was sent back to be repaired, while he proceeded on his voyage. After being dismasted in a violent storm, and struggling with many difficulties, as well as a fit of the gout, Columbus at last arrived in the port of St. Lucar de Barrameda. He had no sooner landed than he heard, with unspeakable regret, of the death c^ liis munificent patroness, Isabella; a blow which he never recovered. Ferdinand, indeed, treated him with courteous attention; but gave strong intimations, that the terms he had stipulated fiw himself were too advantageous OF COLUMBUS. 77 and wished to propose coining to a new agreement. Thia however never took place; the negociations entered into were interrupted by the accession of Philip co the throne of Castile, and Columbus worn out with infirmities and chagrin, yielded up the ghost at Valladolid on the 20th of May, 1606, in the 64th year of his age. He died with a composure of mind suitable to the magnammity which distinguished his character, and with sentiments o' piety becoming that supreme respect for reii^on, which he manifested in every occurrence of his life. His remiuns were conveyed, by the king's order, to Seville, where some authors say, he was magnificently inter- red, in the monastry of the Carthusians ; and that a monument was erected to his memory charged with this inscription, A GASTILIA Y A LEON NUEVO MUNDO DEO' COLON. Which may be thus translated, TO CASTILE AND LEON, A NEW WORLD WAS GIVEN BY COLUMBUS. Others assert, that his monument only exists at Seville ; for that his body was buried at St. Domingo, in the chancel of the cathedral ; Ymd an article in the public prints from Spain, on the late cession of Hispaniola to France, seems to confirm this belief. For we read, that the remains of Columbus were to be transferred, with great pomp, from St. Domingo to Cuba. Such were the adventures and the end of Columbus : a man whom all posterity will view with admiration, and honour with applause. The ingratitude he experienced is the usual return for services too great to be repaid. The pander or minion of power may receive an adequate reward for his degrading ser- vilities ; hut he who eclipses the splendour of an original king* dom by such an accession as a new world, may excite envy, but cannot meet with a due recompence, without being consi- dered as a rival to his prince. Perhaps the grand source of ■ il'IH 'v" ^l1 9 1 ^ Jul j^^H 'Ii ijH| ■ IJll '^H iH^^H ' mi nci ■ t^ IP 1 ^M 1 1 1 1:;' !:i " dHt ^^M J i ! f'' ^ 1 1 iM; it J 1 ■71' , 1 '■ !i 1 ■ 111 H ii i m ■ '^; 1 ' h i|| 1 1 78 THE LAST VOVAGE OF COLUMBUS. the misfortunes of Columbus was his indiscreet stipulation for a joint authority in his new discoveries. His good sense might have told him, that it was impossible to be a partner with a king. We shall conclude the history of Columbus' voyages, with his character, as delineated by a Spanish writer of veracity. * Columbus," says he, ' was toll of stature, had a long visage, and a majestic aspect. His nose was aquiline, his eyes grey, and his complexion clear and ruddy. When young, his hair and beard were fair ; but hardships soon turned them grey. He was a man of wit and pleasantry, eloquent in discourse, yet moderately grave in his deportment. His affability to stran- gers, and his judicious conversation, gmned him the affection of every ingenious mind ; while an air of authority and gran- deur attracted respect. He was strict in his religious observ- ances himself, and obliged those who were under his command to show at least a decent regard to this sacred institution. He had an earnest concern for the conversion of the Indians, and endeavoured as much as was in his power to allure them, by obliging the Spaniards to lead a life in some measure corres- ponding to the faith they professed. His courage was un- daunted ; he was fond of great enterprises, temperate in living, modest in dress, patient under injuries; and much more anxious to bring his enemies to a sense of their offences, than to retaliate injustice. He remained unmoved amidst the nu- merous dangers and adversities that attended him, ever placing a firm reliance on Divine Providence. In short, had he lived in earlier times, his conduct and his achievments would have procured him statues and temples to his honour. He would have b<>en ranked with Hercules and Bacchus ; and a constel- lation perhaps would have borne his name. However, he will be remembered as long as the world endures ! JS. » : Illation for mse might ith a king. ages, with f veracity. mg visage, } grey, and s hcur and grey. He 'ourse, yet f to stran- le affection and gran- )us observ- } command ition. He dians, and ) them, by ure corres- e was un- e in living, uch more ices, than St the nu- er placing id he lived [ould have e would a constel- r, he will '■ *2 • 'iJ '■,m ■»«.: S' > m til Eur< prin< vain refin corre cnsla in oc It conti and Hel man and I in till recon then not sj to ac( this s an an pence ^ AN ACCOUNT OF THE CONQUEST OF MEXICO; i I! 9 9» 5 BY HERNANDO CORTES, 'pHERE is something so stupendous in the conquests of Mexico and Peru, that mankind must ever feel an interest m tlie recital. The history of those events is as honoiu'able to European courage and capacity, as it is disgraceful to the principles and conduct of the chief actors on the stage. In vain shall the nations of Europe plume themselves on superior refinement ; in vain shall they boast of a pure religion and a correct system of morals, while they feel no compunction in enslaving the ignorant savage, in monopolizing his wealthy or in occupying his land. It having been determined to fit out an expedition for the continent of America, to lake advantage of circumstances, and to enrich the adventurers and iheir employers with gold, Helnando Coktes was appointed commander. This gentle- man was born at Mefiellin, a town of Estremadura in Spain; and being bred to a nilitary life, resolved to push his fortune in the West Indies, whither he sailed in 1501<, with letters of recommendation to his kinsman Don Nicholas de Obando, then governor of Hispaniola. His ambition, however, was not satisfied; and therefore, in 1511, he obtained permission to accompany Diego Velasquez in an expedition to Cuba. In this service he distinguished himself so much, that he received an ample concession of lands and of Indians, the usual rectoni- pence bestowed upon adventurers in the New World. 80 CONQUEST OF MEXICO. Cortes, naturally ardent and active, displayed rther quali. ties, which adapted him for difficult and hazardous enter, prises. With calm prudence in concerting schemes, and persevering vigour in executing them, he combined the art of gaining the confidence and governing the minds of those with whom he was concerned. To these superior accomplishments, he added others of an inferior kind, that are suited to strike the vulgar, and command their respect ; a graceful person, an engaging aspect, singular address in martial exercises, and a robust constitution capable of enduring any fatigue. Cortes, however, at the commencement of his adventure, found, that in the suspicious and jealous temper of Velasquez, he had difficulties with which to contend, that required a very high degree of prudence and resolution, and these difficulties were enhanced in the progress of his undertaking. On the 18th of November, 1518, he sot sail from St. Jago de Cuba; but he had no sinmer arrived at Trinidad, a small settlement on the same side of the island, before Velasquez made an at- tempt to deprive him of his commission. Cortes, however, had so far engaged tiie esteem and confidence of his troops that, partly by soothing, and partly by intimidating Vergudo, a magistrate at Trinidad, to whom Velasquez had sent his instructions, he was allowed to depart without molestation from Trinidad. Cortes sailed for the H.avannah in order to raise more soldiers, and to compfete the victualling of his fleet. During his unavoidable stay in this place, Velasquez sent orders for arresting him, and for delaying the departure of the armament. Cortes, forewarned of the danger, had time to take precautions for his own safety. He announced to his troops the hostile intentions of Velascjucz, and found that both his officers and soldiers, who were intent on an expedi- tion which flattered them with the hopes of glory and wealth, were determined to persevere ; and accordingly they were una- nimous in their intrtaties that he would not abandon the im- portant station to which he was so well intitled ; offering, at the same time, to shed the last drop of their bUxKl in sup- porting his authority. Cortes did not hesitate in complying with their wishes; swore that he would never desert tliem CONQUEST OF MEXICO: 81 quali- enter- s, and J art of se with imcnts, strike son, an , and a renture, lasquez, 1 a very fficuUies On the 5 Cuba; ttlement e an at- lowever, s troops [''^ergudo, sent his ilestation lorder to his fleet, icz sent rturc of ad time Id to his nd that expedi- weakh, ?re una- the ini- r"**?* at m sup- Implying It them and promised to conduct them without further delay, to that rich country, which had been so long the object of their thoughts and wishes. Had this expedition happened in very remote ages, so ro- mantic are the circumstances attending it, that it would have ranked, in point of authenticity with the Argonautic, or the labours oi Hercules. Never was more achieved by less im- probable means. The empire of Mexico had subsisted for many centuries: its inhabitants were far advanced in refine- ment, and remote from barbarism ; they were intelligent, and in some degree learned. Like the ancient Egyptians, whose wisdom is so much admired in this particular, they knew the annual revolution of the sun, with a precision which could scarcely have been expected from a people unacquainted with letters. They fixed the ^jeriod of the year at 365 days nearly, Their superiority in military affairs was the object of admira- tion and terror over the remote parts of the continent ; and their constitution, founded on the sure basis of religion and law, seemed as permament as time itself. The cities displayed magnificence in architecture, and opulence in their decorations. But all these advantages combined could not secure Mexico from the unequal prowess of Spain. Though this expedition was fitted out by the united efforts of the Spanish power in Cuba ; though every settlement had contributed its quota of men and provisions ; though the go- vernor had laid out considerable sums, and each adventurer had exhausted his stock, or strained his credit, the poverty of the preparations was such as must aster ish the present age, and bore, indeed, no resemblance to an armament destined for the conquest of a great empire. The fleet consisted of 11 ves- sels ; the largest of 100 tons, which was dignified by the name of Admiral ; three of 70 or 80 tons, and the rest small open barks. On board of these vessels were 617 men ; of ■nich 508 belonged to the land service, and 109 were seamen or artificers. The soldiers were divided into 11 companies, acoording to the number of the ships , to each of which Cortes appointed a captain, and committed to him the command of the vessel while at sea, and of the men when on shore. As Vol. I. L J •• , i ■' Hi '•Ki (I i\ 82 CONQUEST OF MEXICO. the use of fire arms among tlic nations of Europe was hitherto confined to a few battalions of regularly disciplined infantry^ only 13 soldiers were armed with muskets, 32 were cross-bow men, and the rest had swords and spears. Instead of the usual defensive armour, which must have been cumbersome in a hot climate, the soldiers wore jackets quilted with cotton, which experience had taught the Spaniards to be a sufficient protection again&t the weapons of the Americans. They had only 16 horses, 10 small field-pieces, and four falconets. With this slender and ill provided train did Cortes set sail on the 10th of February, 1519, to make war upon a monarch whose dominions were more extensive than all the kingdoms subject to the Spanish crown. As religious enthusiasm always mingled with the spirt of adventure in the New Worlds and, by a combination still more strange, united with avarice, in prompting the Spaniards to all their enterpriNCs, a large cross was displayed in their standards, with this inscription, Let v^ Jbllow the cross, for under this sign we sJiall conquer. Cortes steering directly towards the island of Cozumel, had the good fortune to redeem Jerome de Aguilar, a Spaniard, who had been eight years a prisoner auiong the Indians. This man was perfectly acquainted with a dialect of their language, understood through a large extent of country, and possessing besides a considerable share of prudence and sagacity, proved extremely useful as an interpreter. From Cozumel, Cortes proceeded to the river of Tobasco [March 4], in hopes of meeting a friendly reception from the natives ; but, after re- peated endeavours to conciliate their good will, he was con- strained to have recourse to violence. Though the forces of the enemy were numerous, and advanced with extraordinary courage, they were routed with great slaughter, in several successive actions. The loss which they sustained, and still more the astonishment and terror excited by the destructive effect of the fire-arms, and the dreadfid appearance of the horses, humbled their fierce spirits, and induced them to sue for peace. They acknowledged the king of Castile as their sovereign, and granted Cortes a supply of provisions, with a present uf cotton garments, some gold, and 20 female slaves. CONQUEST OF MEXICO. 83 letio -bow r the some )tton, iclent y had et ►narcli gdoms ilways f and, ice, in i cross Let us j1, had aniard, This guage, sessing proved Cortes )pes of ler re- fts con- )rces of •dinary several d still ructive of the to sue their with a slaves. Cortes continued his course to the westward, keeping as near the shore as possible, in order to observe the country ; but could discover no proper place for landing, until he arrived at St. Juan de Ulua. As he entered this liarbour*[April 2], a large canoe, full of people, among whom were two who seemed to be persons of distinction, approached his ship with signs of peace and amity. They came on board without fear or distrust, and addressed him in a most respectful manner, but in a language altogether unknown to Aguilar. Cortes was in tlie utmost perplexity and distress, at an event of which he instantly foresaw all the consequences. But he did not re- main long in his embarrassing situation : a fortunate accident extricated him, when his own sagacity could have contributed little towards his relief One of the female slaves, whom he had received from the cazique of Tobasco, happened to be present at the first interview between Cortes and his new guests. She perceived his distress, as well as the confusion of Aguilar ; and as she perfectly understood the Mexican lan- guage, she explained what they said in the Yucatan tongue, with which Aguilar was acquainted. He now learned, that the two persons whom he had received pn board of his ship were deputies from Tuetile and Pilpatoe, two officers entrusted with the government of that province, by a great monarch, whom they called Montezuma ; and that they were sent to inquire what his intentions were in visiting their coast, and to offer him what assistance he might need in order to continue his voyage. Cortes, struck with the ap- pearance of those people, as well as the tenor of the message, assured them, in respectful terms, that he approached their country with most friendly sentiments, and came to propose matters of great importance to the welfare of their prince and his kingdopi, which he would unfold more fully, in per- son, to the governor and the general. Next morning, with- out waiting f()r any answer, he landed his troops, his horses, and artillery ; and having chosen proper ground, began tq erect huts for his men, and to fortify his camp. The natives, instead of opposing the entrance of those fatal guests into their BA CONQUEST OF MEXICO. country, assisted them in all their operations, with an alacrity of which they had ere long good reason to repent. Next day Teutile and Pilpatoe entered the Spanish camp with a numerous retinue, and Cortes considering them as the ministers of a great monarch, entitled to a degree of attention very different from that which the Spaniards were accustomed to pay to the petty caziques, with whom they had intercourse in the isles, received them with much formal ceremony. He informed them, that he came as ambassador from Don Carlos of Austria, king of Castile, the greatest monarch of the East, and was intrusted with propositions of such moment, that he Cpuld impart them to none but the emperor Montezuma him- •{^If, and therefore required them to conduct him, without Joss of tinie, into the presence of their master. Whilst they hesi- tated in complying with his request, they endeavoured to con- ciliate his good will by costly presents^ the display of which ^rved to increase the avidity of the Spaniards, and their eagerness to take possession of a country which abounded with such precious productions. The deputies dissuaded Cortes from visiting the capital ; but he with a haughty deter- mined tone insisted on his demand of being admitted to a personal audience of their sovereign. During the interview some Mexican painters were employed in delineating upon white cotton cloths figures of the ships, the horses, the artillery, the soldiers, and whatever else attracted their notice, as singular. These pictures, as Cortes was in- formed, were to be sent to Montezuma, in order to give him a better idea of the objects now presented to their view than any words could do : and therefore he resolved to make the representation more animated and interesting by exhibiting a spectacle which might give them and their monarch an awful impression of the extraordinary prowess of his followers, and the irresistible force of their arms. The trumpets were ordered to sound an alarm ; the troops instantly formed in order of battle ; the infantry performed such martial exercises as were best suited to display the effect of their different weapons; the horse by various evolutions gave a specimen of their agility CONQUEST OF MEXICO. 85 [i camp i as the ttention istonied ercourse , ly. He n Carlos he East, , that he ima hira- hout loss ;hey hesi- ;d to con- of which and their abounded dissuaded hty deter- itted to a ships, the B attracted es was in- give him view than make the nhibiting a an awful )wers, and ere ordered in order of ies as were ; weapons; heir agiUty and strength; and the artillery, pointed towards the thick wood which surrounded their camp, made dreadful havoc among the trees. The Mexicans were amazed, and at the explosion of the cannon many fled, and some fell to the ground ; and Cortes found it difficult to compose their minds and pre- serve their confidence in their own safety. The painters put their fancy on the stretch in inventing figures and characters for representing the extraordinary things which they had seen. These pictures were dispatched to Montezuma, and Cortes sent along witli them a present of some European curiosities. Although the capital, in which Montezuma resided, was above 180 miles from St. Juan de Ulua, Cortes's presents were carried thither, and an answer to his demands was re- ceived in a few days. As it was such as would be likely to irritate and not satisfy him, the messengers introduced ihcm- selves, followed by a train of 100 Indians, loaded with pre- sents sent by Montezuma. Among these were two large plates of a circular form, one of massive gold representing the sun, and the other of silver representing the moon, which latter was in value about 5,000/. sterling. These were accompanied with various other costly articles, consisting of golden orna- ments and boxes of pearls and precious stones. When these presents were delivered, Cortes was informed that Montezuma would not consent that his troops should approach nearer to bis capital, or even to allow them to continue longer in his I dominions. The Spanish general still insisted on his first, demand ; and Montezuma, though haughty, violent, and impatient of controul in his own temper, instead of falling on [the Spaniards, whilst they were encamped on a barren un- jhealthy coast, without an ally, renewed his negociation. In )rder to account for this indiscretion and timidity, it is said an opinion prevailed universally among the Americans, that some Ireadful calamity would befal their country by means of for- lidable invaders who should come from regions towards the ising sun. The superstition and credulity of the Mexicans ["epresented the Spaniards as the instruments of that fatal re- rolution which they dreaded. Hence it ceases to be incredible, lat a few adventurers, like Cortes and his attendants, should m y' 8G CONQUEST OF MEXICO. alarm the monarch of a great empire and all his subjects. Iiu ittcad of taking effectual measures for expelling these invaders, Montezuma, after consulting his niinisterii, renewed his in- junctions in more positive terms, requiring them to leave the coiuitry ; but this injunction was accompanied with a present of such value, as furnished a fresh inducemop.t to re- main there. The Spaniards perceiving that hostile nicavuros would become necessary, began to feel uneasiness ; and the party of Velasquez disseminated jealousies and fears. In the mean while, Cortes took every measure, by kind attention and a liberal distribution of Mexican gold, to secure the affection and attachment of the soldiers. As he persisted in his demand of an audience on the part of the Mexican .sovereign, the mes- senger quitted the camp with looks and gestures which express- ed his surprise and resentment ; and soon after the natives, who brought provisions to the camp, discontinued their visits. Every circumstance indicated the speedy commencement of hostilities ; and dissatisfaction prevailed more and more in the Spanish camp. Cortes temporized and seemed to concur in the wishes of those, who were inclined to desist from the en- terprise; and accordingly he issued orders, that the army should be in readiness to re-embark for Cuba. The disappoint- ed adventurers exclaimed and threatened, and the whole camp was almost in an open mutiny. In an interview with their conuTiander, they expressed their astonishment at the order which he had issued ; declared their readiness to follow him with alacrity through every danger, in quest of those settle- ments and treasures which had been so long held out to their view : and at the same time, announced their resolution, if he chose to return to Cuba, to chuse another general, who would conduct them in that path of glory which he had not spirit to enter. The experiment succeeded ; and Cortes finding the spi- rit that prevailed auiong his troops, professed his readiness to conduct thcni, agreeably to their wishes, in the career of victory, to such independent fortunes as their valour merited. Upon this declaration, shouts of applause testified the excess of their joy. Cortes immediately began to execute his design. Hav- ing assembled the principal persons xw his army, he elected, CONQUEST OF MEXICO. 87 uts. Ill* invaders, i his in- to leave I with a cp.t to rc- meiisuros and the I. In the sntion and e aftection is demand , the mes- :h expiess- le natives, heir visits, icenient of nore in the I concur in om the en- the army [Hsappoint- ^•hole camp with their the order [tbllow him liose settle- lUt to their tion, if he |who would lot spirit to ing the spi- [cadiness'to of victory, •d. Upon jss of their Hav- lie elected, Isn. by their sufTrages, a council and magistrates, in whom the government of the new colony should be vested ; framing the new settlement upon the model of a Spanish corporation. All tlie persons chosen into office were most firmly devoted to Cortes. Combining the two operative principles of avarice And enthusiasm, he called his new settlement ' Villa rica de la vera Cruz,' i. e. The rich Town of the true Cross. When this new council was established, Cortes, after an artful harangue, laid the commission, which he had received of Velasquez, u|)on the table, and, after kissing his truncheon, delivered it to the chief magistrate, and withdrew. The council, being well prepared for the measures that were to follow, did not long delilierate: the resignation of Cortes .>as accepted, and he was unanimously elected chief-justice of the colony, and captain-general of the army ; and the commission was made out in the king's name, with most ample powers^ The soldiers, with eager applause, ratified the choice ; the air resounded with the name of Cortes, and all avowed to shed their blood in support of his authority. Having imprisoned the leaders of the malecontents, who were the adherents of Veliasquez, he secured the confidence of his attendants, by a seasonable and liberal distribution of Mexican gold among both his friends and opponents. At tliis time a message was brought to him from Zem- poalla, a considerable town at no great distance, with an o£Per of friendship ; accompanied with intimations that the cazique of this town hated Montezuma, and wished to be rescued from the oppression of his yoke. Cortes knew how to avail himself of this circumstance, and determined to march to Zempoalla. This town lay in his way to Quiabislan, about 40 miles to the northward, and which, both on account of the fertility of the soil and commodiousness of the harbour, seemed to be a better situation for a permament settlement than that where he was encamped. Here he marked out ground for a town ; and aided by the Indians of Zempoalla and Quiabislan, the place was soon in a state fit for habitation and capable of defence. [The caziques of these two towns, emboldened by their alliance with the Spa/iiardf.. insulted the officers who appeared to levy IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // ^ .%. \ 1.0 1^ l£^ IM 12.2 1.1 l.-^iss 18. 1.25 1 1.4 II 1.6 < 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation ^ 23 WBS; MAIK STftEET WEBSTIR.N.y. 14S«0 (716) •72-4503 '^ y %;o % ■ ^^^^ '4^s ^ / 88 CONQUEST OF MEXryf World, ites of the kstile, with ge thither, conspiracy Velasquez ; associates, , ready for ~|ishment of of destroy- either con- and by an men vo- untry, and [selves with- 'ance. linconsistent sr; fof ^' commanded his soldiers to overturn the altars, and to destroy the idols in the chief temple of Zempoalla, and in their place to e/'jct a crucifix and an image of the Virgin Mary. The people witnessed this deed of sacrilege with astonishment and horror ; the priests excited them to arms ; and it required the masterly address of Cortes to appease the commotions without bloodshed. On the 16th of August, 1319, Cortes began his march from Zempoalla into ihc country, with 500 men, 13 horse, and 6 field-pieces. The rest of his troops he left as a garrison in Villa Rica. Th ? cazique of Zempoalla furnished him with provisions, and with 200 Indians, called * Temoenes,"' whose ofiice was to carry burdens, and perform all servile labour. He also supnli»d Cortes with a body of troops, amounting to 400. When he aiTived on the confines of Tlascala, he found the inhabitants hostile and preparing to oppose their invaders. When the Spaniards entered into the Tlascalan territories, they were attacked with great intrepidity, and during 14 days they were exposed to almost uninterrupted assaults ; but after three battles and many skirmishes, so imperfect were the mi- litary weapons of these people, not one Spaniard was killed in the field. After several unavailing encounters, the fierceness of the Tlascalans abated, and they seriously inclined to peace. At length they yielded themselves as vassals to the crown of Castile, and engaged to assist Cortes in all his future opera- tions. Cortes remained 20 days in Tlascala, reposing his troopg after hard service, and conceiting the plans of his future ope- rations. The Tlascalans offered to accompany him in his march to Mexico, with all the forces of the republic, under the command of their most experienced captains. The intem- perate zeal of Cortes was very near depriving him of ail these benefits. Explaining to the Tlascalans some of the chief doc- tiiiita of the Christian religion ; insisting upon abandoning their own superstitions, and embracing the faith of their new friends, and minghng menaces with arguments, he at length excited the indignation of these people, who had long heard him with singular patience and candour ; and they conjured Vol. I. M '• tm 90 CONQUEST OF MEXICO. ' him to desist, lest the gods should avenge on their heads the- guilt of having listened to such a proposition. Cortes Was proceeding to violence, but was restrained' by the interposition of i«ther Bartholomew de Olmedo, chaplain to the expedition. Accordingly he left the Tlascalans in the undisturbed exercise of their own rites, requiring only that they should desist from their horrid practice of offering human victims in sacrifice. Cortes, against the remonstrance of the Tlascalans, ad- vanced towards Cholula, which had been an independent state, but had lately been subject to the Mexican empire. Finding the inhabitants to be treacherous, and to be contriving^ his destruction, whilst they received him with seeming hospi- tality and kindness, he avenged himself without mercy, and slaughtered &,000 persons. From Cholula, Cortes advanced directly towards Mexico, which was only distant 20 leagues : and as hu proceeded, the discontents against the Mexican go- vernment, that were manifested by the people, encouraged his hopes. In descending from the mountains of Chalco, the vast plain of Mexico opened to their view, and presented the most beautiful prospect on the face of the earth ; fertile and cultivated^ fields, a lake resembling the sea in extent, encompassed with large towns, and the capital city rising upon an island in the middle, adorned with its temples and its turrets. They were now fully satisfied that the country was rich beyond any con- ception they had previously formed of it ; and they flattered themselves that they should soon obtain an ample recompence for all their services and sufferings. No enemy had yet ap- peared to oppose their progress, and Cortes was almost at the gates of the capital, before the monarch had determined whe- ther to receive him as a friend, or to oppose him as an enemy. The Spaniards marched forward, however, with great circum- spection. At length, as they drew near the city, about 1,000 persons, apparently of distinction, came forth to meet them, adorned with plumes, and clad in mantles of fine cotton* They announced the approach of Montezuma, who advanced in the midst of a great number of attendants, with extraordinary magnificence and pomp, in a chair or litter richly ornamented with gold, and feathers of different colours. Cortes, when he CONQUEST OF MEXICO. 91 >thr ation ition. ercise from ;e. 3, ad- endent impire. triving^ hospi- ■y, and ivanced eagues : can go- Bigedhis the vast the most iltivatetl sed with id in the \ey were lany con- flattered pompence yet ap- >st at the ued whe- n enemy. It circum- ►ut 1,000 •I them. They !d in the aordinary Jnamentcd when he drew near, dismounted and advanced towards him in a re- spectful posture. Montezuma at the same time alighted from his chair, and walked over the cotton cloths which covered the street. After mutual salutations were reciprocally paid and returned,' Montezuma conducted Cortes to the quarters allotted for his reception, and politely took his leave. In this new habitation, surrounded by a stone wall with towers at proper distances, the first care of Cortes was to take precautions for his security by planting the artillery so as to command the different avenues which led to it, by appointing a large division of his troops, to be always on guard, and by posting sentinels at proper stations. In the evening Monte- zuma returned with the same pomp as in the first interview, surrounded by a great number of his officers, among whom were many particularly attached to his person, and zealous for the honour and independence of their country ; yet awed by the impressions of superstition, they witnessed the humiliation of their sovereign without daring to interfere, and even Monte- zuma had the imprudence to inform Cortes what was his opi- nion with respect to the Spaniards, and how he supposed Cortes and his followers were the persons whose appearance the Mexican tradition and prophecies taught them to expect, and that he was disposed to receive them as relations of the same blood and parentage. Cortes, in reply, extolled the dignity and power of his sovereign, and announced his i.itentior-. in sending him into that country , favouring as much as |X)ssible the idea which Montezuma had formed cimcerning the origin of the Spaniards. After some days spent in viewing the city, he revolved in his mind what conduct in his situation it was proper for him to pursue; and all circumstances considered, he determined, as the most politic measure, to seize Montezu. ma in his palace, and to carry him as a prisoner to the Spanish quarters. When this bold measure was proposed to his offi. cers, the timid started many difficulties and objections ; but the more intelligent and resolute approved of it; and it was agreed instantly to make the attempt. At his usual hour of visiting Montezuma, Cortes, accom- panied by five principal officers, and as many trusty soldiers, n CONQUEST OF MEXICO. 'M went to the palace ; and they were followed by 30 chosen men : the rest of the troops were properly distributed and under arms ready to sally forth on the first alarm. Cortes, admitted to an audience, addressed Montezuma in the language of complaint and reproach ; and Montezuma attempted to vindi- cate himself ftom accusation. The Spanish general thought it necessary, that Montezuma, in order to convince his fol- lowers that he entertained no hostile intentions, should leave his own palace, and take up his residence in the Spanish quarters. After much hesitation and remonstrance, and un- der the influence of apprehensions concerning his own safety, the emperor complied. In the Spanish quarters, to which he was conveyed amidst the murmurs of the [)eople, he was treated Avith ceremonious respect. After some time, Cortes entered his apartment, accompanied by a soldier with a pair of fetters ; and addressing him with a stern countenance, told him that as the persons who were about to suffer for attacking the Spaniards near Villa Rica, had charged him as the cause of the outrage committed, it was necessarv that he also should make atonement for that guilt; and he commanded the sol- dier to clap tlie fetters on his legs. The monarch sunk under the indignity, and his attendants bathed his feet with their tears. At length Cortes returned from the execution of the persons that had been found guilty, with a cheerful counte- nance, and ordered the fetters to be taken off. This seems to have been, on the part of Cortes, a wanton exercise of power; though it has been vindicated on the ground of policv : as it tended to press the minds of the Mexicans with a persuasion, that shedding the blood of a Spaniard, of which the person.s now executed had been guilty, was the most heinous of all crimes ; and nothing appeared better calculated to establish this opinion, than to condemn the first Mexicans who' had ventured to commit it to a cruel death, and to oblige their monarch himself to submit to a mortifying indignity, as an, expiation for being accessary to their guilt. During the six months of Cortes's abode in Mexico, Monte- zuma continued in the Spanish quarters with apparent satis- faction and tranquillity; and whilst he was thus under the CONQUEST OP MEXICO. 93 men: jnder nitted ge ol' v'mdi- lought lis fol- 1 leave jpanish nd un- safely, hich he he was , Cortes 1 a pair ice, told ittacking [he cause ^o should the sol- nk under nth their ,n of the counte- seenis to rtf power ; icv : as it ersuasion, le persons ous of all establish who' had blige their hity, as an. [;o, Montc- irent satis- under the power, and, as it were, in the custody of the Spanish genera], Cortes enjoyed peculiar advantp^a for examining the state of the country, and acquainting himself with the disposition of the inhabitants. He also by these means obtained such a command of the lake as might ensure a retreat, if either from levity or disgust, the Mexicans should take up arms against him, and break down the bridges or causeways. Cortes urged . Montezuma to acknowledge himself a vassal of the king of Spun, to hold his crown of him as superior, and to subject his dominions to the payment of an annual tribute. Such was the influence of the Spanish general over the Mexican monarch, that with this requisition, degrading as it was, he was so obsequious as to comply. This act of submission and homage was executed with all the formalities which the Spa- niards were pleased to prescribe ; and as a profession of fealty and homage, it was accompanied with a magnificent present to his new sovereign ; and after his example his subjects also made very liberal contri utions. The whole amount of the treasure which the Spaniai -^Is had received, by gift or extor- tion, from Montezuma and his subjects, is estimated at 600,000 pesos, which was divided by Cortes in 'he following manner: a fiftli was set apart as a tax due to the king; ano- ther fifth was allotted to Cortes, as commander in chief; the sums advanced by Velasquez, Cortes, and some of the officers, towards defraying the expence of fitting out the armament, were also deducted; and the remainder was divided among the army, in proportion to the different ranks. Afler so many defalcations the share of a private man did not exceed 100 pe- ws. This occasioned great murmurings among the soldiers, so that it required all the address of Cortes, and no small ex- ertion of his liberality, to appease them. Montezuma, though he complied in many instances with the requisitions and wishes of Cortes, was inflexible on the subject of religion. When the Spanish comniander found all . his attempts to shake the constancy of Montezuma ineffectual, he was so much enraged at his obstinacy, that in a transport of zeal he led out his soldiers to throw down the idols in the great temple by force. But the priests taking arms in defence 94 CONQUEST OF MEXICO. of their altars, and the p^ 'ple crowding to support them, Cortes was obliged to desist, and prudence overruled his zeal. The Mexicans, ever since the confinement of their sovereign, had been meditating how they might expel or destroy the Spaniards ; and they thought themselves under a sacred kind of obligation to avenge their insulted deities. Montezuma, having called Cortes into his presence, obser\ed to him that, as all the purposes of his embassy were fully accomplished, the gods had declared their will, and the people signified their desire, that he and his followers should instantly depart out • of the empire. With this he required them to comply, or unavoidable destruction would fall suddenly on their heads. Cortes replied, that he had already begun to prepare for re- turning to his own country ; but as he had destroyed the ves- sels in which he had arrived, some time was requisite for building other ships. In this state of anxiety and suspence, a Mexican courier ar- rived with an account of some ships having appeared on the coast. This was an armament fitted out by Velasquez at Vera Cruz, and instead of bringing the aid they expected, threat- ened them with utter destruction. Velasquez had received information concerning Cortes by means of the vessel that had been dispatched for Spain, and which contrary to orders had touched at Cuba. He immediately exerted himself in com- pleting an armament, consisting of 18 ships, having on board 80 horsemen, 800 foot soldiers, of whom 80 were musketeers, and 120 cross-bow-men, together with a train of 12 pieces of cannon. The command of this armament was entrusted with Pamphilo de Narvaez, who had instructions to seize Cortes and his principal officers, to send tliem as prisoners to Velasquez, and then to complete the discovery and conquest of the coun- try in bis name. Cortes was alarmed, and not without reason, by the news of the arrival of Narvaez ; and more especially when he heard, tliat several provinces, in his interest, began to revolt from him, and to regard Narvaez as a deliverer no less able than willing to save them. The measures which it would be prudent for him to adopt required the utmost deli- beration. After revolving every scheme that presented itself CONQUEST OF MEXICO. 9& to his mind with deep attention, he adopted that, the execution of which was the most hazardous; but which if successful, would prove most beneficial to his country ; and with the de- cisive intrepidity suited to desperate situations, he determined tc make one bold effort for victory under every disadvantage, rather than sacrifice his own conquests and the Spanish interest in Mexico. When his attempts for negociating with the fol- lowers of Narvaez had failed, he determined to advance towards an enemy whom, he had in vain endeavoured to appease. Ac- cordingly, having lefl 150 men in the capital to guard the city, the wealth he had amassed, and the person of the impri- soned monarch, he advanced with a force not exceeding S50 men towards Zempoalla, of which Narvaez had taken posses-' sion. Having conciliated some of Narvaez''s officers by liberal presents, he attacked him in the night, and availing himself of several advantages that had occurred, he obtained a decisive victory ; so that before morning the officers of Narvaez capitu- lated, and the soldiers laid down their arms, and submitted quietly to their conquerors. Soon after this victory, Cortes received information from the capital, that the Mexicans had taken arms against the Spaniards, and therefore he hastened back with all his forces as rapidly as possible; and in his march he was joined at Tlascala by S,000 chosen warriors. The Mexicans had made no preparation for resisting his entrance ; but immediately on his arrival he was admitted into the city without molestation, and took quiet possession of his ancient station. Emboldened by his success, he treated Montezuma with neglect and his subjects with insult ; and thus provoked the Mexicans to re- new their hostility. The number who took up arms were considerable, and their courage undaunted. One bodv of troops succeeded another amidst bloodshed and slaughter, so that the abilities and experience of Cortes, seconded by the valour of his soldiers, were hardly sufficient to defend the fortifications that surrounded the posts where the Spaniards were stationed. Cortes prepared for a sally, with such a con- siderable force as r 'ght either drive the enemy out of the city, < lE 96 CONQUEST OF MEXICO. or compel them to listen to terras of accommodation. He attacked them, however without success; and though vast numbers of the Mexicans fell, the Spaniards were at length obliged to retire, \2 soldiers having lieen killed and 60 W(Hind- ed. In another unsuccessful sally, the general himself was wounded in the hand. When the Mexicans approached to renew the assault, Montezuma was presented to their view ; and he addressed them with every argument that could miti- gate their rage, or persuade them to cease from hostilities. As soon as he had ended his discourse, the Mexicans poured in flights of arrows and voUies of stones with such violence cm the ramparts, as to wound the unhappy monarch and strike him to the ground. Cortes followed him to his apartment in order to console him under his misfortune; but Montezuma perceiving his degradation, his spirit revived, and he scorned to prolong his life after his last humiliation. Stripping the bandages from his wounds in a transport of rage, and refusing to take any nourishment, he soon ended his wretched days ; refusing with disdain all the solicitations of the Spaniards to embrate the Christian faith. Upon the death of Montezuma, Cortes lost all hopes of bringing the ' ' 'cans to an accommodation, and prepared for a retreat. . in accomplishing his design, he was en- gaged in new conflicts. At length they determined to retire secretly in the night; but they had not proceeded far before the Mexicans discovered them, and made dispositions for a formidable attack. When morning dawned, it discovered to Cortes, who had arrived at Tacuba with those of his followers that had survived, his shattered battalion, reduced to lesS' than half its original number, in a dejected and wounded con- dition ; and the sight caused the tears to trickle from his eyes, which his soldiers observed with satisfaction, concluding that while attentive to the duties of a general he was not insensible to the feelings of a man. Having retired to an adjacent tem- ple for the repose and refreshment of his troops, exhausted with fatigue, be there deliberated what course to pursue ; and at length determined to march towards the Tlascalan territor CONQUEST OF MEXICO. m ild miti- >8tltitieB. poured lence scorned iping ttiB , refusing ed days; niards to ries. In tlieir way thither tliey encountered many attacks; but upon their arrival, they were received with tenderness and cordiality. Having obtained several reinforcements, he mustered 550 infantry, of wliom 80 were armed with muskets or cross-bows, 40 horsemen, and a train of 9 field-pieces. At the head of these, accompanied by 1,0,000 Tlascalans and other friendly Indians, Cortes began his march towards Mexico, on the 28th of December, 1520, six months after his disastrous retreat from that city. As he advanced thitlier, he found tliat the Mexicans were prepared to oppose his progress. He therefore took possession of Tczeuco, the second city of the empire, situated on the banks of the lake, 20 miles from Mexico. Here he established his head-quarters ; and deposing the chief who was at the head of the ctmimunity, he placed another cazique in his room, who, together with his adherents, served the Spaniards with inviolable fitlelity. Here he employed himself with singular assiduity in preparing a naval armament of 13 brigantines, for aiding his future operations ; and in the mean while 4 ships arrived at Vera Cruz from Hispaniola, with 200- soldiers, 8 horses, 2 battering-rams, and a considerable supply of ammunition' and arms. Elevated with observing that all his preparatory schemes, either for recruiting his own army, or impairing the force of the enemy, had now produced their full effect, Cortes, impatient to begin the siege of the capital in form, hastened the launching of the brigantines. On tliQ 28th of April, ail the Spanish troojjs, together with the aux- iliary Indians, were drawn up on the banks of the canal ; and with extraordinary military pomp, rendered more solemn by the celebration of the njost sacred rites of religion, the brigan- tines were launched. As they fell down the canal in order, father Ohneda blessed them, and gave each its name. Every eye folbwed them with wonder and hope, until they entered the lake, when they hoisted their sails, and bore away before the wind. A general shout of joy was raised ; all admiring that bold inventive genius, which, by means; so extraordi- nary that their success almost exceeded belief, had acquired the command of a fleet, without the aid of which Mexico Vol. I.— (5) N il' m 98 CONQUEST OF MEXICO. would Imvc c<>ntimio<1 to set tlie Spnnisli |X)wer anil arniK at defiance. Cortes (''term hied to attack the city from tlirec different quarter.s ; from Tciunicu tm the north side of the lake, from Taculm on the west, and from (^uvocan towards the south. Those towns were situated on the principal causeways which led to the capital, and intended for their defence. He aj)- pointcd Sandoval to command in the first, IVdro de Alvarado in the second, and Christoval de Olid in the third ; allotting to each a numerovis body of Indian auxiliaries, together with an equal division of Spaniards, who hy the junction of the trans in knowledge and arts ren- dered their superiority greater on this new element, than any had hitherto found it by land. From that time Cortes remained master of the lake, and tlie brigantines not only preserved a conmuuiication between the Spaniards in their different stations, though at consider* able distances from each other, but were employed to cover the causeways on each side, and keep off the canoes, when they attempted to annoy die troops as they advanced towards the city. Cortciv 'brmed the brjgantines into three divisions, appointing one to cover each (i^ the stations from which an attack was to be carried on againet the city, with orders to se- cond the operations of the ofHccr who connnanded there. From all the three stations he pushed on the attack against the city with equal vigour ; but in a manner so very different from the conduct of sieges in regular war, that he himself seems afraid it would appear no less improper than singular, to persons unacquainted with his situation. Each morning his troops assaulted the barricades which the enemy had erected on the causeways, forced their way over the trenches which they had dug, and through the canals where the bridges were broken down, and endeavoured to penetrate into the heart of the city, in hopes of obtaining some decisive advantage, which might force the enemy to surrender, and terminate the war at once v but when the obstinate valour of the Mexicans rendered the efforts of the day ineffectual, the Spaniards retired in the evening to their former quarters. Thus their toil and danger were, in some measure, continually renewed; the Mexicans T 100 CONQUEST OF MEXICO. repairing in tlie night what the Spaniards had destroyed through tlie day, and recovering the posts from which they hud driven them. But necessity prescribed this slow and untoward mmie of operation. The number of his troops was so snmli, that Cortes durst not, with a handful of men, at- tempt to make a lodgment in a city where he might be sur- rounded and annoyed by such a multitude of enemies. The remembrance of what he had already suffered by the ill-judged confidence with which he had ventured into such a dangerous situation, was still fresh in his mind. The Spaniards, ex- hausted with fatigue, were unable to guard the various posts which they daily gained ; and though their camp was filled with Indian nii^filiaries, they durst not devolve this charge upon them, because they were so little accustomed to disci- pline, that no confidence could be placed in their vigilance. Besides this, Cortes was extremely desirous to preserve the city as much as possible from being destroyed, both because he destined it to be the capital of his conquests, and wished that it might remain as a monument of his glory. From all these considerations, he adhered obstinately, for a month after the sie^e was opened, to the system which he had adopted. The Mexicans, in their own defence, displayed valour which was hardly inferior to that with which the Spaniards attacked them. On the land, on water, by night and by day, one furious conflict succeeded anotlier. Several Spaniards were killed, more wounded, and all were ready to sink under the toils of unintermitting service, which were rendered more in- tolerable by the injuries of the season, the periodical rains being now set in with their usual violence. Astonished and disconcerted with- the length and difficulties of the K>ege, Cortes determined to make one great effort to get possession of the city, before he relinquished the plan which he had hitherto followed, and had recourse to any other mode of attack. With this view, he sent instructions to Alvarado and Sandoval to advance with their divisions to a general as- sault, and took the command in person (July 3) of that posted on th^ causeway of Cuyocan. Animated by his presence, and the expectation of some decisive event, the Spaniprds CONQUEST OP MEXICO 101 pushed forward with irresistible impetuosity. They broke «. through one barricade after another, forced their way over the ditches and canals, and having entered the city, gained ground incessantly, in spite of the multitude and ferocity of their opponents. Cortes, though deliglited with the rapidity of his progress, did not forget that he might still find it neces- sary to retreat; and in order to secure it, api)ointed Julian de Alderete, a captain of chief note in the troops which he had received from Hispaniola, to fill up the canals and gaps in the causeway as the main body advanced. That officer, deeming it inglorious to be thus employed, while his companions were in the heat of action and the career of victory, neglected the important charge committed to him, and hurried on, inconsi- derately, to mingle with the combatants. The Mexicans, whose military attention and skill were daily improving, no sooner obfcrved this, than -they carried an account of it to their monarch. Guatimozin instantly discerned the c(msequence of the error which the Spaniards had conmiitted, and, with admirable presence of mind, prepared to take advantage of it. He commanded the tr(X)ps posted in the front to slacken their efforts, in order to allure the Spaniards to push forward, while he dispatched a large body of chosen warriors through different streets, some by land, and others by water, towards the great breach in the causeway, which had been left open. On a signal which he gave, the priests in the ])rincipal temple struck the great drum consecrated to the god of war. No sooner did the Mexicans hear its doleful solemn sounds calcu- lated to inspire them with contempt of death and enthusiastic ardour^ than they rushed upon the enemy with frantic rage. The Spaniards, imable to resist men urged on no less by re- ligious fury than hopes of success, began to retire, at first leisurely, and with a good countenance; but as the enemy pressed on, and their own impatience to escape increased, the terror and confusion became so general, that when they ar- rived at the gap in the causeway, Spaniards and Tlascalans, horsemen and infantry, plunged in promiscuously, while the Mexicans rushed upon them fiercely on every side, their light lOS CONQUEST OF MEXICO. i canoes carrying thcni through shoals which the brigantines could not approach. In vain did Cortes attempt to stop and rally his flying tn^ps , fear rendered them regardles* of his entreaties or commands. Finding all his endeavours to renew the combat fruitless, his next care was to save some of those who held thrown themselves into the water; but while thus employed, with more utienlion to their situation than his own, six Mexican captains suddenly laid hold of him, and were hurrying him oiF in triumph ; and though two of his officers rescued him at ihe expeucc o<' their own lives, he received se- veral chuigerous wounds before he could break loose. About CO Spaniards perished iti the rout; and what rendered the disaster nioie .ifflicting, 40 of these fell alive into the hand of an enemy never known to shew mercy to a captive. The approach of night, though it delivered the dejected Spaniards iVom the attacks of the enemy, ushered in, what was hardly less grievous, the noise of their barbarous triumph, and of the horrid festival with which they celebrated their victory. Every quarter of the city was illuminated ; the great temple shone with such peculiar splendour, that the Spaniards could plainly see the people in motion, and the priests busy in hastening the preparations for the death of the prisoners. Through the gloom, they fancied that they discerned their companions by the whiteness of their skins, as they were stript naked and compelled to dance before the image of the god to whom they were to be oiFered. They heard the shrieks of those who were sacrificed, and thought that they could distin- guish each unha})py victim, by the well-known sound of his voice. Imagination added to what they really siiw or heard, and augmented its horror. The most unfeeling melted into tears of conif -ssion, and the stoutest heart trembled at the dreadful spectacle which they beheld. Cortes, who, besides all that he felt in common with his soldiers, was oppressed with the additional load of anxious reflections natural to a general on such an unexpected calami- ty, could not, like them, relieve his mind by giving vent to its anguish. He was obliged to assume an air of tranquillity, in order to revive the spirit and hopes of his followers. The CONQUEST OF MEXICO. 103 juncture, incked, required an extraordinary exertion of forti- tude. The Mexicans, elated with their victory, sallied out next morning to attack him in his quarters. But ihey did not r«ly on the efforts of their own arms alone. They sent the heads of the Spaniards whom they hud sacrificed, to the leading men of the adjacent provinces, and assured them that the god of war, appeased by the blood of their invaders, had declared with an audible voice, that in eight days time those hated enemies should be finally destroyed, and peace and prosperity re-established in the empire. A prediction uttered with such confidence, and in terms so void of ambiguity, gained universal credit among a people prone to superstition. The zeal of the provinces, which had already Jeclared against the Spaniards, augmented ; and se- veral, which had hitherto remained inactive, took arms, with enthusiastic ardour, to execute the decree of the gods. The Indian auxiliaries, who had joined Cortes, accustomed to vene- rate the same deities with the Mexicans, and to receive the responses of their priests with the same implicit faith, aban- doned the Spaniards as a race of men devoted to certain de- struction. Even the fidelity of the Tlascalans was sha!:en, and the Spanish troops were left aln ost alone in their stations. Cortes, finding that he attempted in vain to dispel the super- stitious fears of his confederates by argument, took advantage, from the imprudence of those who had framed the pwphccy, in fixing its aecomplishment so near nt hand, to give a striking demonstration of its falsity. He suspended all military opera- tions during the period marked out by the oracle. Under cover of the brigantines, which kept the enemy at a d'stnnco, his troops lay in safety, and the wttal term expired without any disaster. Many of his allies, ashamed of their own credulity, returned to their stations. Other tribes, judging that the gods who had now deceived the Mexicans, had decreed finally to with- draw their protection from them, joined his standard ; and such was the levity of a simple people, moved by every slight impression, that in a short time after such a general defection of his confederates, Cortes saw himself, if we may believe his 104 CONQUEST OF MEXICO. own account, at the head of 150,000 Indians. Even with such a numerous army, he found it necessary to adopt a new and more wary system of operation. Instead of renewing his attempts to become master of the city at once, by such bold but dangerous efforts of valour as he had already tried, he made his advances gradually, and with every possible precau- tion against exposing his men to any calamity similar to that which they still bewailed. As the Spaniards pushed forward, the Indians regularly repaired the causeways behind them. As soon as they got possession of any part of the town, the houses were instantly levelled with the ground. Day by day, the Mexicans, forced to retire as their enemies gained ground, were hemmed in within more narrow limits. Guatimozin, though unable to stop the career of the enemy, continued to defend his capital with obstinate resolution, and disputed every inch of ground. The Spaniards not only varied their mode of attack, but, by orders of Cortes, changed the weapons with which they fought. They were again armed with the long Chinantlan spears, which they . had used with such success airumst Narvaez ; and, by the firm array in which this enabled them to range themselves, they repelled, with Uttle danger, the loose assault of the Mexicans : incredible numbers of them fell in the conflicts which they renewed every day. While war wasted without, famine began to consume them in the city. The Spanish brigantines, having the entire command of the lake, rendered it almost impossible to convey to the besieged any supply of provisions by water. The immense number of his Indian auxiliaries enabled Cortes to shut up the avenues of the city by land. The stores which Guatimo- zin had laid up were exhausted, by the multitudes which had crowded into the capital, to defend their sovereign and the temples of their gods. Not jnly the people, but persons of the highest rank, felt the utmost distresses of famine. What they suffered brought on infet'ious and mortal distempers, the last calamity that visits besieged cities, and which filled up the measure of their woes. But, under the pressure of so many and such various evils, the spirit of Gup^imozln remained firm and unsubdued. He CONQUEST OF MEXICO. lOS en with pt a new wing bis jch bold tried, he ; precau- ir to that forward, nd them, town, the ty by day, d ground, uatimozin, ntinued to uted every :heir mode apons with h the long ich success his enabled tie danger, ,ers of them ly. While hem in the e command ivey to the le immense to shut up h Guatimo- s which had ign and the persons of ,ine. What distempers, which filled various evils, Ibdued. He rejected, with scorn, every overture of peace from Cortes; and disdaining the idea of submitting to the oppressors of his country, determined not to survive its ruin. The Spaniards continued their progress. At length all the three divisions penetrated into the great square in the centre of the city, i.nd made a ijecure lodgment there [July 27]. Three-fourths of the city were now reduced, and laid in ruins. The remaining quarter was so closely pressed, that it could not long withstand assailants, who attacked it from their new station with su- perior advantage, and more assured expectation of success. The Mexican nobles, solicitous to save the life of a monarch whom they revered, prevailed on Guatiir ozin to retire from a place where resistance was now vain, thi t he might rouse the more distant provinces of the empire to arms, and maintain there a more successful struggle with the public enemy. In order to facilitate the execution of this measure, they endea- voured to amuse Cortes with overtures of submission, that, while his attention was. employed in adjusting the articles of pacification, Guatimozin might escape unperceived. But they made this attempt upon a leader of greater sagacity and dis- cernment than to be deceived by their arts. Cortes, suspecting their intention, and aware of what moment it was to defeat it, appointed Sandoval, the officer on whose vigilance he could most perfectly rely, to take the command of the brigantines, with strict injunctions to watch every motion of the enemy. Sandoval, attentive to the charge, observing some large canoes crowded with people rowing across the lake with extraordinary rapidity, instantly gave the signal to chase. Garcia Holguin, who commanded the swiftest sailing brigantine, soon overtook them, and was preparing to fire on the foremost -canoe, which seemed to carry '^^me person whom all the rest followed and obeyed. At once the rowers dropt their oars, and all on board, throwing down their arms, conjured him with cries and tears to forbear, as the emperor was there. Holguin eagerly seized his prize, and Guatimozin, with a dignified composure, gave himself up into his hands, requesting only that no insult might be offered to the empress or his children. Vol. I. 106 CONQUEST OF MEXICa When conducted to Cortes, he appeared neither with the sul- len- fierceness of a barbarian, nor with the dejectioa of a sup> plicant. ^ I have done/ saA he, addressing himself to i\w Spanish general, * what became a monarch. I have defended my people to the last extremity. Nothing now remains but to die. Take this dagger,** laying his hand on one which Cortes wore, * plant it in ray breast, and put an end to a lile which can no longer be of use.'' As soon as the fate of their sovereign was known> the re- sistance of the Mexicans ceased ; and Cortes took poesesanon of that small part of the capital [August 13] wliicb yet re- mained undestroyed. Thus terminated the si'^e otf Mexiooi, the most memorable event in the conquest of America. It continued 75 days, hardly one of which passed without some extraordinary effort of one party in the attack, or of the other in the defence of a city, on the fate of which both knew that the fortune of the empire depended. As the struggle here was more obstinate, it was likewise more equal, than any between the inhabitants of the Old and New Worlds. The exultation of the Spaniards, on accomplishing this ar^ duous enterprise, was at first excessive. But this was quickly damped by the cruel disappointment of those sanguine h(^}e8, which bad animated them amidst so many hardships and dan. gers. Instead of the inexhaustible wealth wluch they expected from becoming masters of Montezuma^s treasures, and the ornaments of so many temples, tlieir rapaciousness could col- lect only an inccuiuderable l)ooty amidst ruins and desolation. Guatimozin, aware of his impending fate, had (Nrdered what remained of the riches amassed by his ancestors to be thrown into the lake. The In^an auxiliaries, while the Spaniards were engaged in conflict with the enemy, liad carried aS the most valuable part o£ the spoil. The sum to be divided among the conquerors was so small, that many of them dis. dained to accept of the pittance winch fell to their share, and all murmured and exclaimed; some, against Cortes and his confidents, whom they suspected of having secretly appropri- ated to thair own use a large portion of the riches which shculd CONQUEST OF MEXICO. 107 the suU f a sup- r to tlie lefended ams bwt le which toalile [^ lhe»«- )oeses9ion b yel re- Mexioot erica. I* lOUt some or of tl»fi aoth knew 3 struggW , thaa any Qg thk ar- as quickly line hopes, s and dan- y expected 5, and the could ctJL- desolation. dered what be thrown Spaiuards carried off be dbvided thenai dis- share, and tea and his y approprU hich should have been brought into the common stock ; others, against Giiatimozin, whom they accused of obstinacy, in refusing to discover the place where he had hidden his treasure. Arguments, intreaties, and promises, were employed in or- der to soothe tliem, but with so little effect, that (fortes, from solicitude to check this growing spirit of discontent, gave way to a deed ivhich stains the glory of all his great actions. With- out regarding the former dignity of Guatimozin, or feeling any reverence for those virtues which he hatl displayed, he subjected the unhappy monarch, together with his chief fa- vourite, to torture, in order to force from them a discovery of the royal treasures, which it was supposed they had con- cealed. ^Gruatimozin bore whatever the refined cruelty of his tormentor^ could inflict, with the invincible fortitude of an American warriw. His fellow-sufferer, overcome by the vio- lence of the anguish, turned a dejected eye towards his master, which seemed to implore his permission to reveal all that he knew. But the high-spirited prince, darting on him a look of authority mingled with scorn, checked his weakness by asking, * Am I now reposing on a bed of flowers ?' Overawed by the reproach, the favourite persevered in his dutiful silence, and expired. Cortes, ashamed of a scene so horrid, rescued the royal victim from the hands of his torturers, and prolonged a life reserved for new indignities and sufferings. The fate of the capital, as both parties had foreseen, decided that of the empire. The provinces submitted one after ano^ ther to the conquerors. Small detachments of Spaniards, marching through them without interruption, penetrated in different quarters to the great Southern ocean, which, accord- ing to the ideas of Columbus, they imagined would open a short as well as easy passage to the East Indies, and secure to the crown of Castile all the envied wealth of those fertile regions ; and the active mind of Cortes began already to form sciienies for attempting this important discovery, which were afterwards completed by Ferdinand Magalhaen, or Magellan. While Cortes was acquiring such vast territories for his native country, and preparing the way for future conquests, he was regarded as an undutiful and rebellious subject ; his w 108 CONQUEST OF MEXICO. conduct in assuming the government cf New Spain^ was de- clared to be an irregular usurpation, in contempt of royal authority, and a commission was issued for suspending htm, seizing his person, confiscating his effects, makiiig a strict scrutiny into his proceedings, and transmitting the result to the council of the Indies, of which Fonseca, bishop of Burgos, was president. Cortes took secret measures for defeating the effect of thi» commission ; and in May, 15S^, dispatched de- puties< to Spain, with a pompous account of the success of his arms, further specimens of the productions of the country, and rich presents to thr emperor, as earnests of future contri- butions from his new conquests; requesting, in recompence for his services, the approbation of his proceedings, and that he might be entrusted with the government of those territories, which his conduct, and the valour of his followers, had added to the crown of Castile. The public voice declared warmly in favour of his pretensions, and he was appointed by the em- peror Charles V. captain-general and governor of New Spain ; in consequence of which appointment, he endeavoured by new schemes and arrangements to render his conquest a secure and beneficial acquisition to his country. The emperor at the same time appointed certain commissioners to receive and ad- minister the royal revenue there, with independent jurisdiction. These commissioners sent home unfavourable accounts of the character and conduct of Cortes, which made such an impres- sion on the Spanish ministers, and by their means on the mind of their master, that a new commission was granted, with powers to investigate the truth of these allegations, to seize the person of Cortes, if that measure should be found expe- dient, and to send their prisoner to Spain. The execution of this commission was prevented by the death of Ponce de Leon, with whom it was entrusted, and Cortes, though deeply wounded with this return for his services, endeavoured to maintain this station,, and to recover the confidence of the court. The apprehensions of Charles and his ministers in- creased; and in 1528, a new commission of inquiry was issued, with more extensive powers. Cortes was extremely indignant; but instead of asserting his own rights agunst his ungrateful CONQUEST OF MEXICO. 109 countrymen, and with a bold hand seizing that power which the courtiers meanly accused him of coveting, as some of hit desperate followers advised, he repaired directly to Castile, and committed himself and his cause to the justice and gene- rosity of his sovereign. Here he was received in the mosc respectiiil manner, and the order of St. Jago, the title of marquis del Valle de Guaxaca, and the grant of a vast terri- tory in New Spain, were successively bestowed upon him; and as his manners were correct and elegant, the emperor ad- mitted him to the same familiar intercourse with himself that was enjoyed by noblemen of the first rank. Cortes, however, though dignified by new titles, returned to Mexico in 1530, with diminished authority. The military department, with powers to attempt new discoveries, was left in his hands ; but the supreme direction of civil affairs was placed in a board called The Audience of New Spain ; and at a subsequent pe- riod, a nobleman of high rank was sent thither as viceroy, to take the government into his own hands. The division of power in New Spain became the source, of perpetual dissension, which embittered the life of Cortes, and thwarted all his schemes. Nevertheless, he projected new discoveries, and formed various schemes for that purpose. Having entrusted the execution of some of his plans to others, who were unsuccessful, he determined, in 1536, to undertake in person the conduct of an armament, with which, after en- during incredible hardships, and encountering various dangers, he discovered the large peninsula of California, and surveyed the greatest part of the gulf which separates it from New Spain. Dissatisfied and disgusted, on a variety of accounts, he once more sought redress in his native country. Accord- ingly he returned thither in 1540 ; but his reception was very different frcm that which gratitude, and even decency, ought to have secured for him. As no farther services could be ex- pected from him in his declining years, he was treated some- times with neglect, sometimes with insolence. After several years his grievances received no redress, and his claims were ineffectually urged, although from time to time he renewed his application to ministers and judges, an occupation the I no CONQUEST OF MEXICO. iaoSt irksome wtd mortify ing to a man of high spirit, who had mowd in a sphere where he was more accustomed t)o command tkm to solidt, tiH at length, broken down by age, and the vexation of disappoinlnnent, he ended his days on the 2d of December, 1547, in the 6Sd year of his age. Envied by his voRt^mporaries, and >ill requited by the court, which he served, •he has been admired and celebrated by suoceedii^ ages. Which has formed the most just estimate of his character, an impartial consideration of his actions must detennine. AN ACCOUNT OF THE CONQUEST OF PERU; Vf FRANCISCO PIZARRO. "pROM the time that ?ifugnez de Balboa discovered the great Southern ocean, and received the first obsure Iiints con- cerning the opulent countries with which it might open a communication, the wishes and schemes of every enterprising person in the colonies of Darien and Panama were turned towards the wealih of those unknown regions. Accordingly,, several arm^meots were j&tted out in order to explore and take possession of the countries to the east of Panama, but under the conduct of Leaders whose talenta and resources were une- qual to the attempt. A.^ the excursions of those adventurers, did not extend beyond the limits of the province to which the Spaniards have ^ven the name of Tierra Firm^^ a mountain- ous region covered with woods> thinly inhabited, and extremely unhealthy, tliey returned with dismal accounts concerning the distresses to which they bad been exposed^ and the uupromis- iflg aspect of the places which they had visited. But there were three persons settled in Panama on whom the circumstances which deterred others made so littfe impres- acm, that at the very moment when all considered Balboa^s expectaticms of discovering a rich country, by steering towards the east, as chimericalt they resolved to attempt the execution 112 CONQUEST OF PERU. of his schemes. The names of those extraordinary men were Francisco Pizarro, Diego dc Almagro, and Hernando Luquc. PizARRO was the natural son of a gentleman of an honourable family by a very low woman, and, according to the cruel fate which often attends the offspring of unlawful love, had been so totally neglected in his youth by the author of his birth, that he seems to have destined him never to rise beyond the condition of his mother. In consequence of this ungenerous design, he set him, when bordering on manhood, to keep hogs. But the aspiring mind of young Pizarro disdaining that ignoble occupation, he abruptly abandoned his charge, enlisted as a soldier, and, after serving some years in Italy, embarked for America, which, by opening such a boundless range to active talents, allured every adventurer whose fortune was not equal to his ambitious thoughts. Almagro had as little cause to boast of his descent as Pizarro. The one was a bastard, the other a foundling. Bred, like his companion, in the camp, he yielded not to him in any of the soldierly qualities of intrepid valour, indefatigable activity, or insurmountable constancy in enduring the hardships inseparable from military service in the New World. Hernando de Luque was an ecclesiastic, who acted both as priest and schoolmaster at Panama, and, by means which the contemporary writers have not described, had amassed riches that inspired him with thoughts of rising to greater eminence. Such were the men destined to overturn one of the most extensive empires on the face of the earth. Their confederacy for this purpose was authorised by Pedrarias, the governor of Panama. Each engaged to employ his whole fortune in the adventure. Pizarro, the least wealthy of the three, as he could not throw so large a sum as his associates into the com- mon stock, engaged to take the department of greatest fatigue and danger, and to command in person the armament which was to go first upon discovery. Almagro offered to conduct the supplies of provisions and reinfo' cements of troops, of which Pizarro might stand in need. Luque was to remain at Panama to negociate with the governor, and superintend what- ever was carrying on for the general interest. CONQUEST OF PERU. 113 n were Luquc. Durable uel fate id been s birth, ond the renerous ep hogs. L ignoble ted as a irked for to active not equal cause to itard, the camp, he f intrepid istancy in vice in the astic, who , and, by ribed, had f rising to ■ the most onfederacy pvernor of ;une in the ree, as he o the corn- test fatigue nent which to conduct troops, of o remain at ntend what- Tbe attempt was begun with a force more suited to the humble condition of the three as8(x;iates, than to the greatness of the enterprise in which they were engaged. Pizarro set sail from Panama on the 14th of Novemlx;r, 1524, with a single vessel, of small burden, and 112 men. After beating about for 70 days, with much. danger and incessant fatigue, Pizarro's progress towards the south-east was not gnator than what a skilful navigator will now make in as many hours. He touched at several places on tlje coast of Tierra Firm6, but found every where the same uninviting country which former adventurers had described ; the low grounds converted into swamps by an overflowing of rivers ; the higher, covered with impervious woods ; few inhabitants, and those fierce and hostile. Famine, fatigue, frequent rencounters with the na- tives, and, above all, the distempers of a moist, sultry climate, combined in wasting his slender band of followers. The un- daunted resolution of their leader continued, however, for some time, to sustain their spirits, although no sign had yet appeared of discovering those golden regions to which he had promised to conduct them. At length he was obliged to abandon that inhospitable coast, and retire to Chuchama^ opposite to the pearl islands, where he hoped to receive a supply of provisions and troops from Panama. But Almagro having sailed from that port with 70 men, s^jood directly towards that part of the continent where he ^loped to meet with his associate. Not finding him there, he landed his soldiers, who, in searching for their companions, underwent the same distresses, and were exposed to the same danger, which had driven them out of the country. Hepulsed at length by the Indies in a sharp conflict, in which ^their leader lost one of his eyes by the wound of an arrow, they likewise were compelled to reimbark. Chance led them to the place of Pizarro^s retreat, where they found some consolation in recounting to each other their adventures, and comparing their sufferings. In 1526 Almagro repaired to Panama, in hopes of recruit- ing their shattered troops. But what he and Pizarro had suf- fered, gave his countrymen such an unfavourable idea of the Vol. I. P 114 CONQUEST OF PERU. j4.a r^ I! service, that it was with difficulty he could levy fourscore men. Feeble as this reinforcement was, Almagro took the command of it, and having joined Pizarro, they did not hesi- tate about resuming their operations. After a long series of disasters and disapp< ntments, not inferior to those which they had already experienced, part of the armament reached the bay of St. Matthew, on the coast of Quito, and landing at Tacamez, to the south of the river of Emeralds, they beheld a country more champaign and fertile than any they had yet discovered in the Southern ocean, the natives clad in garments of woollen or cotton stuff, and adorned with several trinkets of gold and silver. But, notwithstanding those favourable appearances, magni- fied beyond the truth, both by the vanity of the persons who lirought the report from Tacamez, and by the fond imagina- tion of those who listened to them, Pizarro and Almagro durst not venture to invade a country so populous with a handful of men enfeebled by fatigue and diseases. They retired to the small island of Gallo, where Pizarro remained with part of the troops, and his associate returned to Panama, in hopes of bringing such a reinforcement as might enable them to take possession of the opulerit territories, whose existence seemed to be no longer doubtful. But some of the adventurers, less enterprising, or less hardy, than their leaders, having secretly conveyed lamentable accounts of their sufferings and losses to their friends at Pana- ma, Almagro met with an unfavourable reception from Pedro de los Rios, who had succeeded Pedraias in the government of that settlement. After weighing the matter with that cole economical prudence which appears the first of all virtues tc persons whose limited faculties' are incapable of conceiving oi executing of great designs, he concluded an expedition, at- tented with such certain waste of men, to be so detrimenta to an infant and feeble colony, that he not only prohibited th( raising of new levies, but dispatched a vessel to bring horn* Pizarro and his companions from the island of Gallo. Alma gro and Luque, though deeply affected with these measures which they could not prevent, and durst not oppose, founc X. [T. CONQUEST OP PERU. 11« luld levy fourscore Almagro took the , they did not hesi- Lfter a long series of to those which they nament reached the lito, and landing at neralds, they beheld an any they had yet ives clad in garments ith several trinkets of appearances, magni- y of the persons who by the fond imaginar fo and Almagro durst lulous with a handful ses. They retired to ro remained with part to Panama, in hopes It enable them to take lose existence seemed enterprising, or less y conveyed lamentable their friends at Pana- reception from Pedro lias in the government matter with that cold ; first of all virtues to ipable of conceiving or led an expedition, at- to be so detrimental lot only prohibited the vessel to bring home land of Gallo. Alma- „ with these measures, irst not oppose, found means of communicating their sentiments privately to Pizarro, and exhorted him not to relinquish an enterprise that was the foundation of all their hopes, and the only means of re-esta-- blishing their reputation and fortune, which were both on the decline. Pizarro''s mind, bent with inflexible obstinacy on all its purposes, needed no incentive to persist in the scheme. He peremptorily refused to obey the governor of Panama's or- ders, and employed all his address and eloquence in persuading his men not to abandon him. But the incredible calamities to which they had been exposed were still so '•"cent in their me- mories, and the thoughts of revisiting their families and friends after a long absence rushed with such joy into their minds, that when Pizarro drew a line upon the sand witli his sword, permitting such as wished to return home to pass over it, only thirteen of all the daring veterans in his service had resolution to remain with their commander. This small, but determined band, whose names the Spanish historians record with deserved praise, as the persons to whose persevering fortitude their country is indebted for the most valuable of all its American possessions, fixed their residence in the island of Gorgona. This, as it was farther removed from the coast than Gallo, and uninhabited, they considered as a more secure retreat, where, unmolested, they might wait for supplies from Panama, wk:ich they trusted that the activity of their associates wculd be able to procure. Almagro and Luque were not inattentive or cold solicitors, and their in- cessant importunity was seconded by the general voice of the colony, which exclaimed loudly against the infamy of exposing brave men, engaged in the public service, and charged with no error but what flowed from an excess of zeal and courage, to perish like the most odious criminals in a desert island. Overcome by those entreaties and expostulations, the governor at last consented to send a small vessel to their relief. But that he might not seem to encourage Pizarro to any new enterprise, he would not permit one landman to embark on board of it. By this time, Pizarro and his companions had remained five months in an island, infamous for the most unhealthy climate Iil6 CONQUEST OF PERU. in that r^ion of America. During all this period, their eyes were turned towards Panama, in hopes of succour from their ^iountrymen ; but worn out at length by fmitless expecta^- tions, and dispirited with suffering hardships of which they saw no end, they, in despair, came to a resolution of committing themselves to the ocean on d float, rather than continue in that detestable abode. But, on the arrival of the vessel from Panama, they were transported with such joy, that all their sufferings wei'e forgotten. Their hopes revived, and, with a rapid transition, not unnatural among men accustomed by their mode of hfe to sudden vicissitudes (^ fortune, high con- fidence succeeding to extreme dejection, Fizarro easily induced not only his own followers, but the crew of the vessel from Panama, to resume his former scheme with fresh ardour. Instead of returning to Panama, they stood towards the south-east, and more fortunate in this than in any of their past efforts, they, on the twentieth day after their departure from Gorgona, discovered the coast of Peru. After touching at several villages near the shore, which they found to be no wise inviting, the}' landed at Tumbez, a place of some note, about three d^rees south of the line, distinguished for its stately temple, and a palace of the Incas or sovereigns of the country. There the Spaniards feasted their eyes with the first view of the opulence and civilization of the Peruvian empire. They beheld a country fully peopled, and cultivated with an a{^pearance of regular industry ; the natives decently clothed, and possessed of ingenuity so far surpassing the other inha- bitants of the New World, as to have the use of tame domes- tic animals. But what chiefly attracted their notice, was such a show of gold and silver, not only in the ornaments of their persons and temples, but in several vessels and utensils for common use, formed of those precious metals, as left no room to doubt that they abounded with profusion in the coui. ^y. Pizarro and his companions seemed now to have attained to the completion of their most sanguine hopes, and fancied that all their wishes and dreams of rich domains, and inexhaustible treasures, would soon be realized. CONQUEST OF PERU. 117 I from I their with a (led by o-h con- induced el from ardour. irds the of their eparture touching to be no me note, d for its ns of the I the first empire, with an clothed, [her inha- te domes- was such is of their snsils for [t no room coui- ^y. ittained to incied that xhaustible But with the slender force then under his command, P>- zarro could only view the rich country of which he hoped here- after to obtain possession. He ranged, however, for some time along the coast, maintuning every where a peaceable in- tercourse r«ith the natives, no less astonished at their new visit- ants, than the Spaniards were with the uniform appearance of opulence and cultivation which they beheld. In the follow- ing year, having explored the country as far as was requisite to ascertain the importance of the discovery, Pizarro procured from the inhabitants some of their llamas or tame cattle, to which the Spaniards gave the name of sheep, some vessels of gold and silver, as well as some specimens of their other works of ingenuity, and two young men, whom he proposed to in- struct in the Castilian language, that they might serve as interpreters in the expedition which he meditated. With these he arrived at Panama, towards the close of the third year from the time of his departure thence. Notwithstanding the splendid relation that Pizarro gave of the opulence of the country which he had discovered, the governor of Panama refused to lend them any further aid. This, however, did not damp the ardour of the three asso- ciates, and it was resolved that Pizarro should repair to Spain. On his arrival he lost no time in going to court, where he conducted his negociations with such an insinuating dexterity of address, as could not have been expected either from his education or former habits of life. His feeling description of his own sufferings, and his pompous account of the country which he had discovered, confirmed by the specimens of its productions which he exhibited, made such impression both on Charles and his ministers, that they not only approved of the intended expedition, but seemed to be interested in the success of its leader. Presuming on those dispositions in his favour, Pizarro paid little attention to the interests of his asso- ciates. As the pretensions of Luque did not interfere with his own, he obtained for him the ecclesiastical dignity to which he aspired. For Almagro, he claimed only the command of the fortress which should be erected at Tumbez. To himself he secured whatever his boundless ambition could desire. He 118 CONQUEST OF PERU. was appointed governor, captain-general, and adelantador of all the country which he had discovered, and hoped to con- quer, with supreme authority, civil as well as military ; and with full right to all the privileges and emoluments usually granted to adventurers in the New World. His jurisdiction was declared to extend 200 leagues along the coast to the south of the river St. Jago ; to be independent of the governor of Panama; and he had power to nominate all the officers who were to serve under him. In return for those concessions, which cost the court of Spain nothing, as the enjoyment of them depended upon the success of Pizarro's own efforts, he engaged to raise 250 men, and to provide the ships, arms, and warlike stores requisite towards subjecting to the crown of Castile, the country of which the government was allotted him. Inconsiderable as the body of men was which Pizarro had undertaken to raise, his funds and credit were so low that he could hardly complete half the number ; and after obtaining his patents from the crown, he was obliged to steal privatefy out of the port of Seville, in order to elude the scrutiny of the officers who had it in charge to examine, whether he had fulfilled the stipulations in his contract. He landed at Nombre de Dios, and marched across the isthmus to Panama, accompanied by his three brothers, Ferdinand, Juan, and Gonzalo. They were all in the prime of life, and of such abilities and courage, as fitted them to take a distinguished part in his subsequent transactions. On his arrival at Panama, 1530, Pizarro found Almagro so much exasperated at the manner in which he had conducted his negociation, that he not only refused to act any longer in concert with a man, by whose perfidy he had been excluded from the power and honours to which he had a just claim, but laboured to form a new association, in order to thwart or tu rival his former confederate in his discoveries. Pizarro, how- ever, had more wisdom and address than to suffer a rupture, BO fatal to all his schemes, to become irreparable ; a reconcili- ation was effected ; and the confederacy renewed on its original terms, the' the enterprise should be carried on at the common CONQUEST OF PERU. 119 governor le officers ncessions, jyment of jfPorts, he ips, arms, the crown as allotted r obtaining al privately scrutiny of whether he landed at to Panama, Juan, and ,nd of such istinguished id Almagro il conducted [ly longer in jn excluded ,i claim, but thwart or to izarro, how- ir a rupture, a reconciii- n its original the common expence of the associates, and the profits accruing fVom it should be equally divided among them. Even after their reunion, and the utmost efforts of their interest, three small vessels, with 180 soldiers, 36 of whom were horsemen, composed the armament which they were able to fit out. But the astonishing progress of the Spaniards in America had inspired them with such ideas of their own supe- riority, that Pizarro did not hesitate to sail with this contempt- ible force to invade a great empire. [1531 , Feb.] Almagro was left at Panama, as formerly, to follow him with what reinforcement of men he should be able to muster. As the season for embarking was properly chosen, and the course of navigation between Panama and Peru was now better known, Pizarro completed the voyage in 13 days; though, by the force of the winds and currents, he was carried above 100 leagues to the north of Tumbez, the place of his destination, and obliged to land his troops in the bay of St. Matthew. Without losing a moment, he began to march towards the south, taking care, however, not to depart far from the sea- shore, both that he might easily eiFect a junction with the supplies which he expected from Panama, and secure a retreat in case of any disaster, by keeping as near as possible to his ships. But as the country in several parts of the coast of Peru is barren, unhealthy, and thinly peopled ; as the Spa- niards had to pass all the rivers near their mouths, where the body of water is the greatest ; and as the imprudence of Pi- zarro, in attacking the natives when he should have studied to gain their confidence, had forced them to abandon their habita- tions ; famine, fatigue, and diseases of various kinds, brought upon him and his followers calamities hardly inferior to those which they had endured in their former expedition. What they now experienced corresponded so ill with the alluring description of the country given by Pizarro, that many began to reproach him, and every soldier must have become cold to ! the service, if even, in this unfertile region of Peru, they had j not met with some appearance of wealth and cultivation which [ seemed to justify the report of their leader. At length they reached the province of Coaque; [April 14] and, having sur- 120 CONQUEST OF PEHU. prised the principal settlement of the natives, they seized their vessels and ornaments of gold and silver, to the amount of 30,000 pesos, with other booty of such value, as dispelled all their doubts, and inspired the most desponding with san- guine hopes. Pizarro himself was so much delighted with this rich spoil, which he considered as the first-fruits of a land abounding with treasure, that he instantly dispatched one of his ships to Panama with a large remittance to Alraagro; and anc'^ er to Nicaragua with a considerable sum to several persons of influ- ence in that province, in hopes of alluring adventurers, by this early display of the wealth which he had acquired. Mean- while, he continued his march along the coast, and disdaining to employ any means of reducing the natives but force, he attacked them with such violence in their scattered habitations, as compelled them either to retire into the interior country, or to submit to his yoke. This sudden appearance of invaders, whose aspect and manners were so strange, and whose power seemed to be so irresistible, made the same dreadful impres- sion as in other parts of America. Pizarro hardly met with resistance until he attacked the island of Puna in the bay of Guayquil. As that was better peopled than the country through which he had passed, and its inhabitants fiercer and less civilized than those of the continent, they defended themselves with such obstinate valour, that Pizarro spent six months in reducing them to subjection. From Puna he pro- ceeded to Tumbez, where the distempers which raged among his men compelled him to remain for three months. While he was thus employed, he began to reap advantage from his attention, to spread the fame of his first success at Coaque. Two different detachments arrived from Nicaragua, [1532] which, though neither exceeded 30 men, he considered as a reinforcement of great consequence to his feeble band, especially as the one was under the command of Sebastian Bene' -.ar, and the other of Hernando Soto, officers not in- ferior in merit and reputation to any who had served in Ame- rica. From Tumbez he proceeded to the river Piura, and in an advantageous station near the mouth of it, he established CONQUEST OF PERU. 1»1 ch 8poU, )ounding ( ships to nc'^ er to of influ- urers, by . Mean- lisdaining force, he abitations, )untry, or ' invaders, lose power ul impres- y met with the bay of le country fiercer and defended spent six ma he pro- ged among the first Spanish colony in Peru ; to which he gave the name of St. Michael. The original founder of the Peruvian empire was Mango Capac, a man who, gifted with powers beyond the level of his kind, and calm and dispassionate himself, by nicely discrimi- nating the passions of his fellow creatures, was able to work upon them with effect, and turn them to his owu profit and glory. He observed that the people of Peru were naturally addicted to superstition ; and that they had a peculiar venera- tion for the orb of day. He pretended therefore to be de- scended from that glorious luminary, whose worship he was sent to establish, and whose authority he was entitled to exercise. By this romantic fiction, which was extremely well adapted to the prejudices of those on whom he intended to impose, he easily duped a credulous people; and by -this artifice alone, brought a considerable extent of territory under his jurisdic- tion. The foundation of his empire being ♦hus laid on super- stition, he extended his dominions still farther by arms. But, to his honour be it recorded that, whether he employed fraud or force, it was with a view of promoting happiness, and fixing its influence. He united and civilized the roving and barba- rous tribes ; he bent them to laws, and inured them to arms ; he softened them by the institution of a benevolent religion ; and in proportion as he exalted their spirit by patriotism, he subdued their hearts by the effect of principle. In no part of America had agriculture and the arts made such remarkable progress, or men advanced so far in the refinements that em- bellish life. A race of princes succeeded Mango, distinguished by the title of Incas, and revered by their subjects as the undoubted dej jendants of their great god, the sun. The twelfth of these now filled the throne, who was named Atabalipa. His fathei Guaiana Capac had extended his hereditary dominions by the addition of the province of Quito, which now constitutes a part of Spanish Peru. To secure himself in the possession of thia ebliquest, he had married the daughter of the legitimate prince of that country ; and of this marriage was sprung the reigning emperor. His elder brother, Huescar, by a dil^erent mother, Vol. I.-(6) Q t» COK((JUEST OF PERU had claimed the isuccession to the whole of his paic-i n»l dojui- nions, not excepting Quito, which devolved on Atahalipa by a double connection. A civil war had been kindled on this account; which, after various turns of fortune, and greatly weakening the empire, terminated in favour of the younger brother ; who now detained Huescar a prisoner in the tower of Cusco, die capital of the Peruvian empire. Thus tlie seeds of anarchy were engendered ; and the cause of dissolution had begun to operate, before the arrival of Pizarro. In this feeble and disjointed state of the empire, the ominous predictions of religion joined their force to human calamities. Pric^hecies were recorded, and dreams were recollected, which foretold the subjugation of the empire by persons unknown, whose description was supposed to correspond with that of the Spaniardii. In particular, tliey had an old tradition, which liad been universally received, that the elder son of one of jiieir Incas, in ancient days, had seen a strange kind of phan- taaif who called himself Virachoca, or offspring of the sun. His dress and appearance were entirely different from those of tJie Peruvians ; his beard was long, his garments flowed down to his feet, and in his hand he held an animal absolutely unknown to th« young prince. This fable was so firmly be* lieved, and so deeply rooted in the minds of the Peruvians, that they no sooner saw a Spaniard with a beard, his legs co- vered, and liolding his horse by the bridle, than they exclaim- ed, * See there is the Inca Virachoca,^ or the son of the sun. Pizarro now directed his course towards Caxamalca, a small town at the distance of twelve days* march from St. Michael^ where Atabalipa was encamped with a considerable body of troops. Before he had proceeded far, an officer dispatched l^y the Inca met him with a valuable present from that prince, accompanied with a proffer of his alliance, and assurances of a friendly reception at Caxamalca. Pizarro, according to the usual artifice of his countrymen in America, pretended to come as the ambassador of a very powerful monarch, and de- dared that he was now advancing with an intention to o0lr Atabalipa his aid against those enemies who disputed his title (q the throne. CONQUEST OF PERU. 199 he cause ' Pizarra ominous alamities. jd, which unknown, hat of the an, which of one of i of phan- f the sun. m those of 3wed down absolutely firmly be- Peruvians, lis legsco- »y exclaim- the sun. ica, a small (t. Michael, )le body of dispatched hat prince, lurances of •ding to the •etended to h, and de- ion to otf^ Ited his title As they now approached near to Caxamalca, Atabaltpft Tcnewed his professions of friendship ; and as an evidence of his sincerity, sent them presents of greater value than the former; and promised to visit the Spanish com mander next day in his quarters. The decent deportment of the Pevuvioa monarch, the order of his court, and the reverence with which his subjects approached his person and obeyed liis commands, astonished those Spaniards, who had nawiv met in America with any thing more dignified than the petty cazique of a bar- barous tribe. But their eyes were still more powerfully at>. tracted by the vast profusion of wealth which they observed in the Inca's camp. The rich ornaments worn by him and his attendants, the vessels of gold and silver in which the re- past offered to them was served up, the multitude of utensils of every kind formed of those precious metals, opened, pros- pects far exceeding any idea of opulence than an European flf the sixteenth century could form. > . While their minds were yet warm with admiration and de- sire of the wealth which they had beheld, they gave such a description of it to their countrymen, as confirmed Pizarso in a resolution which he had already taken; knowing of what consequence it was to have the Inca in his power. For this purpose, he formed a plan as daring as it was perfidious. Notwithstanding the character that he had assumed of an ambassador from a powerful monarch, who courted an alli- ance with the Inca, and in violation of the repeated ofiPers which he had made to him of his own friendship and assist- ance, he determined to avail himself of the unsuspicious simptidty with which Atabalipa relied on his professions, and to seize the person of the Inca during the interview to which he had invited him. Early In the morning, the Peruvian camp was all in mo- tion. But as Atabalipa was solicitous to appear with the greatest splendour and magnificence in his first interview with the strangers, the preparations tor this were so tedious, that the day was far advanced before he began his march. Even then, lest the order of the procession should be deranged, he moved so slowly, that the Spaniards became impatient, 124 CONQUEST OF PERU. and apprehensive that some suspicion of their intention might be the cause of this delay. In order to remove this, Pizarro dis- patched one of his officers with fresh assurances of his friendly disposition. At length the Inca approaciicd. First of all, appeared 400 men, in an uniform dress, as harbingers to clear the way before him. He himself, sitting on a throne or couch, adorned with plumes of various colours, and almost covered with plates of gold and silver enriched with precious stones, was carried on the shoulders of his principal attendants. Be- hind him came some chief officers of his court, carried in the same manner. Several bands of singers and dancers accom- panied this cavalcade ; and the whole plain was covered with troops, amounting to more than 30,000 men. As the Inca drew near the Spanish quarters, father Vincent Valverde, chaplain to the expedition, advanced with a crucifix in one hand, and a breviary in the other, and in a long dis. course explained to him the doctrine of the creation, the fall of Adam, the incarnation, the sufferings, and resurrection of Jesus Christ, the appointment of St. Peter as God''s vicegerent on earth, the transmission of his apostolic power by the suc- cession to the popes, the donation made to the king of Castile by pope Alexander of all the regions in the New World. In consequence of all this, he required Atabalipa to embrace the Christian faith, to acknowledge the supreme jurisdiction of the pope, and to submit to the king of Castile as his lawful sovereign ; promising, if he complied instantly with this re- quisition, that the Castilian monarch would protect his domi- nions, and permit him to continue in the exercise of his royal authority; but if he should impiously refuse to obey this summons, he denounced war against him in his master^s name, and threatened him with the most dreadful effects of his ven. geance. This strange harangue, unfolding deep mysteries, and al- luding to unknown facts, of which no power of eloquence could have conveyed at once a distinct idea to an American, was so lamely translated by an unskilful interpreter) little acquainted with the Spanish tongue, and incapable of , express- ing himself with propriety in the language of the Inca, that CONQUEST OF PERU. 1125 its general tenor was altogether incomprehensible to Atabalipu. Some parts in it, of more obvious meaning, filled him with astonishment and indignation. His reply, however, was tem- perate. He began with observing, that he was lord of the dominions over which he reigned by hereditary succession; and added, that he could not conceive how a foreign priest should pretend to dispose of territories which did not belong to him ; that, if such a preposterous grant had been made, he, who was the rightful possessor, refused to confirm it ; that he had no inclination to renounce the religious institutions esta- blished by his ancestors ; nor would he forsake the service of the sun, the immortal divinity whom he and his people Se- vered, in order to worship the God of the Spaniards, who was subject to death ; that with respect to other matters con- tained in his discourse, as he had never heard of them before, and did not now understand the meaning, he desired to know where the priest had learned things so extraordinary. ' In this book,"" replied Valverde, reaching out to him his breviary. The Inca opened it eagerly, and turning over the leaves, lifted it to his ear : * This,^ says he, < is silent ; it tells me nothing ;^ and threw it with disdain to the ground. The enraged monk, gunning towards his countrymen, cried out, * To arms, Chris- tians, to arms; the word of God is insulted; avenge this profanation on those impious dogs." Fizarro, who, during this long conference, had with diAi- culty restriuned his soldiers, eager to seize the rich spoils of which they had now so near a view, immediately gave the signal of assault. At once the martial music struck up, the cannon and muskets began to fire, the horses sallied out fierce- ly to the charge, the infantry rushed on sword in hand. The Peruvians, astonished at the suddenness of an attack whicii they did not expect, and dismayed with the destructive effect of the fire-arms, and the irresistible impression of the cavalry, fled with universal consternation on every side, without at- tempting either to annoy the enemy, or to defend themselves. Pizarro, at the bead of his chosen band, advanced directly towards the Inca ; and though his nobles crowded around him with officious zeal, and fell in numbers at his feet, while they 1 ISft CONQUEST OF PERU. vied with one another in sacrificing their own lives, that they might cover the sacred person of their sovereign, the Spaniards soon penetrated to the royal seat; and Pizarro seizing the Inca by the arm, dragged him to the ground, and carried him as a prisoner to his quarters. The fate (^ the monarch increased the precipitate flight of his followers. The Spaniards pursued them towards every quarter, and with deliberate and unrelenting barbarity continued to slaughter wretched fugi- tives, who never once offered to resist. The carnage did not cease until the close of day. Above 4000 Peruvians were killed. Not a single Spaniard fell, nor was one wounded bul Pizarro himself, whose hand was slightly hurt by one of his own soldiers, while struggling eagerly to lay hold on the Inca. The plunder of the field was rich beyond any idea which the Spaniards had yet formed concerning the wealth of Peru, and they were so transported with the value of the acquisition, as well as the greatness of their success, that they passed, the night in the extravagant exultation natural to indigent adven- turers on such an extraordinary change of fortune. At first the captive monarch could hardly believe a calamity which he so little expected to be real. But he soon felt all the misery of his fate, and the dejection into which he sunk was in proportion to the height of grandeur from whieh he had fallen. Pizarro, afraid of losing all the advantages which he hoped to derive from the possession of such a prisoner, laboured tc console him with professions of kfndness and re- spect, ihfX corresponded ill with his actions. By residing among ■he Spaniards, the Inca discovered their ruling pas- sion, which, indeed, they were nowise solicitous to conceal, and by applying to that, made an attempt to recover his liber- ty. He oflcred as a ransom what astonished the Spaniards, ever- after all they now knew concerning the opulence of his kingdom. The apartment in which h6 was confined was 22 feet in length, and 16 in breadth ; he undertook to fill it with vessds of gold as high as he could reach. Pizarro closed eagerly with this tempting proposal, and a line was drawn upon the walls of the chamber, to mark the stipulated height lo which the treasure was to rise. CONQUEST OF PERU. 1«7 It they iniards ng the earned lonarch Aniards ate and id fugi- did not ns were ded but le of his he Inca. ea which of Peru, ijuisition, assed.the nt adv^n- i calamity on felt all I he sunk which he ges which prisoner, ss and re- residing uling pas- o conceal, his liber- Spaniards, ince of his ed was 9,9. fill it with irro closetl was drawn ■ted heighi Atabalipa, transported with having obtained some prospect of liberty, took measures instantly for fulfilling his part of the agreement, by sending messengers to Cuecu, Quito, and other places, where gold had been amassed iu the largest quantities, either for adorning the temples of the gods, or the houses of the Inca, to bring what was necessary for completing his ran- som directly to Caxamalca. Though Atabalipa was now m the custody of his enemies, yet so mvh were the Peruvians accust(Mned to respect every mandate issued by their sovereign^ that his orders were executed with the greatest alacrity. The Spaniards remained at Caxamalca tranquil and unmolested. Small detachments of their number marched into remote pro- vinces of the empire, and, instead of meeting with any oppo- sition, wero every where received with marks of the most subi^Jssive respect. Inconsiderable as those parties were, and desirous as Pizarro might be to obtain some knowledge of the interior state of the country, he could not have ventured upon any diminution of his main body, if he had not about this time received an ac- count of Almagro^s having landed at St. Michael with such a reinforcement as would almost double the number of his fol- lowers. The arrival of this long-expected succour was not more agreeable to the Spaniards, than alarming to the Inca. He saw the power of his enemies increase ; and as he knew neither the source whence they derived their supplies, nor the means by which they were conveyed to Peru, he could not foresee to what a height the inundation that poured in upon his dominions might rise. [1533] While disquieted with luch apprehensions, he learned that some Spaniards, in their way to Cuzoo, had visited his brother Huescar in the place where He kept him confined, and that the captive prince had repre'^ented to them the justice. of his own cause, and as an inducement to espouse it, had promised them a quantity of treasure greatly beyond that which Atabalipa had engaged to pay for his ransom. If the Spaniards should listen to this I proposal, Atabalipa had perceived his own destruction to be inevitable; and suspecting that their insatiable thirst for gold would tempt them to lend a favourable ear to it, he determined li'i 128 CONQUEST OF PERU. «"4 to sacrifice his brother's life, that he might save his own ; and his orders for this purpose were executed, like all his other coinmands, with scrupulous punctuality. Meanwhile Indians daily arrived at Caxamalca from diff^.r- ent parts of the kint^dom, loaded with treasure. A great part of the stipulated quantity was now amassed, and Ataba. lipa assured *he Spaniards, that the only thing which pre- vented the whole from being brought in, was the remoteness of the provinces where it was deposited. But such vast piles of gold presented continually to the view of needy soldiers, had so inHamed their avarice, that it was impossible any longer to restrain their impatience to obtain possession of this rich booty. Orders were given for melting down the whole, except some pieces of curious i'abric, reserved as a present for the emperor. After setting apart the fifth due to the crown, and 100,000 pesos as a donative to the soldiers which arrived with Ahnagro, there remained 1,528,500 pesos to Pizarro and his followers.* The Spaniards, having divided among them the treasure amassed for the Inca's ransom, he insisted with them to fulfil their promise of setting him at liberty. But nothing was far- ther from Pizarro'*s thoughts ; for at the very time when the credulous prince hoped to be replaced on his throne, he had secretly resolved to bereave him of life. This determination was accelerated by the following curious circumstance : among all the European arts that Atabalipa most admired was that of reading and writing ; and he long deliberated with himself { whether he should regard it as a natural or acquired talent. In order to detcrixiine this, he desired one of the soldiers, who guarded him, to write the name of God on the nail of itis thumb. This he shewed successively to several Spaniards, asking its meaning ; and to his amazement, they all, without hesitation, returned the same answer. At length Pizarro entered ; and on presenting it to him, he blushed, and with , some confusion was obliged to acknowledge his ignorance. From that moment, he considered him as a mean person, lc$> * A peso at that time was of the value of one pound sterling- ■^-AM CONQUEST OF PERU. 199 n person. sterling- instructed than his own soldiers; and he had not address enough to conceal the sentiments with which this discovery in- spired him. To be the object of a barbarian's scorn, not only mortified the pride of Pizarro, but excited such resentment in his breast, as added force to all the other considerations which prompted him to put the Inca to death. But in order to give some colour of justice to this violent action, and that he himself might be exempted from standing singly responsible for the commission of it, Pizarro resolved to try the Inca with all the formalities observed in the criminal courts of Spain. Pizarro himself, and Ahnagro, with two as- sistants, were appointed judges, with full power to acquit or to condemn ; an attorney-general was named to carry on the prosecution in the king's name; counsellors were chosen to assist the prisoner in his defence ; and clerks were ordained to record the proceedings of the court. Before this strange tri- bunal, a charge was exhibited still more amazing. It con- sisted of various articles ; that Atabalipa, though a bastard, had dispossessed the rightful owner of the throne, and usurped the regal power ; that he hail put his brother and lawful so- verc%n to death ; that he was an idolater, and had not only permitted, but commanded the offering of human sacrifices; that he had a great number of concubines ; that since his im- pinspnment he had wasted and eml)ezzlcd the royal treasures which now belonged of right to the conquerors ; ihat he had imjiled his subjects to take arma against the Spaniards. On these heads of accusaticm, (some of which are so ludicrous, others so absurd, that the effrontery of Pizarro, in making them the foundation of ^ serious procedure, is not less sur- prising than his injustice,) did this strange court go on to try the sovereign of a great empire, over whom it had no juris- diction. With respect to each of the articles, witnesses were examined ; but as they delivered their evidence in their native tongue, PhilippiHo, one of the Indians whom Pizarro carried off from Tumbez, had it in his power to give their words whatever turn helit suited his malevolent intentions. To judges predetermined in their opinion^ this evidence appeared suiR. cient. They pronounced Atabalipa guilty, and condenmed Vol. I. R ?isi i 130 CONQUEST OF PERU. him to be burnt alive. Friar Valverde prostituted the autho- rity of his sacred function to confirm this sentence, and by his signature warranted it to be just. Astonished at his fate^ Atabalipa endeavoured to avert it by tenis, by promises, and by entreaties, that he might be scrit to Sf>ain, where a monarch would be the arbiter of his lot. But pity never touched the luifeeling heart of Pizarro. He ordered liim to be led instantly to execution ; and, what added to the bitter- ness of his last moments, the same monk who had just ratified his doom, offered to console, and attempted to convert him. The most iwwerful argument Valverde employed to prevail with him to embrace the Christian faith, was a promise of mitigation in his punit^lunent. The dread of a cruel death ex- torted from the trembling victim a desire of receiving bapt'iSm, The rite was performed ; and Atabalipa, instead of being burnt, was strangled at the. stake. Upon the death of the Inca, a number of candidates stirted to 611 the vacant throne. The principal nobility sanctioned the pretensions of the full brother of Huescar. Pizarro set uf) a son of Atabalipa ; and two of the Peruvian generals en- deavoured to establish themselves by the assistance of the army. These distractions, as might have been supposed, would have facilitated the conquests of Spaii t, and have been fatal t() the interests of Peru. At the present period, however, they had not the effect that might have been expected, Tlie candidates fought against each other with animosity, and inured their partizans to anus. A quiet inoffensive people is unaccustomed to blood ; yet such is the preference of national spirit, from whatever cause rxcited, to a total lethargy, that in the course of ..le&e intestine commotions, the inhabitants of Peru assumed some courage against the Spaniards; whom they justly consi- dered as the primary cause of all their calamities. The L..ses which the Europeans experienced in these con- tests were less important in themselves than in their ultimate consequences. They lessened that opinion of invincibility which had been attached to their arms ; and which they had been so anxious to keep up and disseminate among the inhabit- ants of the New World. This consideration induced Pizarro CONQUEST OF PERU. 131 autho- l by his lis fate> romises, jvhere a y never i him to le bitter- t ratified ert him. a prevail •omise of death ex- ; baptism, of being tes started sanctioned *izarro set snerals en- • the army, ^ould have ■atal to the , they had candidates Tired their accustomed spirit, from the course ru assumed ustly consi- n these con- leir ultimate invincibihty ich they had ; the inbabit- uced Pizwro to coneUule « truce ; and he employed the interval in laying the foundation of the famous city of Lima, and providing for the permanent establishment of the Spaniards in this country. Embracing the first favourable opportunity of renewing the war, the Spaniards again took the field ; and after surmount- ing many difficulties and dangers, Pizarro at last made him- self master of Cuzco, the capital of the empire. This happened in October, 1532. On entering the city, from which the in- habitants had fled, and carried what was most valuable with them, he still found treasures immense. As it was the cus- tom of the country to bury with their grandees the best part of their riches, the conquerors rifled the sepulchres, and found them as rich as the habitations of the living. The plunder of Cur'f-o has been computed to e(jual the sum formerly advanced ir : ^ ansom of Atabalipa. Pizarro now invited the inhabit- ants to return to their dwellings, fearful lest by driving them to desperation, the whole empire might unite against him. The Indians accepted the proposal, and even the Inca made some overtures of accommodation. While success had so far attended the Spaniards, new grants and levies arrived from the mother country. Pizarro obtained 200 leagues along the sea-coast to tlie southward of what had been originally granted him ; and Almagro 200 leagues to *ho southward of Pizarro's government. Tliis division occasioned a warm dispnt"? between the two chiefs, each reckoning Cuzco within the^ nts ^ f his district. But the dexterity of Pizarro effected & .< ; ici^iation. He persuaded his rivaj, that the country which :? Ilv belonged to him lay to the southward of* Cuzco; that it was no way inferior in riches and fertility, and might as easily be conquered as Peru. To enforce this argu- ment, he offered him his assistance in the expedition, the success of which he deemed indisputable. Almagro, that he might have the honour of subduing a kingdom ''n* himself, listened to the advice ; and having united as many rl Pizarn/s soldiers to his own, as he judged neces- sary, penet,iated with great danger and difficulty into Chili. But danger and difficulty vanish at the prospect of gold. He passed mountains of immense height, and covered with eternal 1S2 CONQUEST OF PERU. snow, with the loss of many of his mien, and the greatest part of hb baggage. These mountains were the Cordilleras. At length he arrived in Copayapu, subject to the Inca of Peru ; and in a short time reduced a considerable part of the circum. jacent country. The Peruvians had now gained policy from their intercourse with the Spaniards, and some knowledge of the art of war. This division of the troops of the enemy did not escape their notice. They made an effort to regain their capital, in which, while Pizarro was indisposed and Almagro at a distance, they were well nigh successful. The latter, however, having re- ceived intelligence of the siege of Cuzco, immediately aban- doned his views of dist ' iquest, and returned to secure the grand object of their i ler labours. He soon raised the sitge of Cuzco, with an infinite slaughter of tlie assailants; but having now the merit of obtaining possession of the city, he was unwilling to relinquish it to Pizarro, who was ap- proaching with an army, and knew of no other enemy but the Peruvians. This bone of contention occasioned a long and bloody strug- gle between the chiefs and their respective parties, in which the turns of fortune were various, and the resentment fierce on both sides ; because the fate of the vanquished was certain destruction. Such at last was the fate of Almagro, who in an advanced age, fell a victim to the security of a rival, in whose dangers and triumphs he had long paiticipated ; and with whom, from the beginning of the enterprise, he had been closely connected. During the course of this civil war, many Peruvians served in the Spanish armies, and learned from the practice of Christians to butcher one another with success. That passive and blinded nation, however, at last opened their eyes, and took a very remarkable resolution. They saw the ferocity of the Europeans, their implacable resentment, their insatiable avarice ; ami they conjectured, that the exercise of those passions would never suflfer the contests to subside. * Let us retire,"* said they, * from among them ; let us fly to our mountains: they will speedily destroy one another, and then we knay return in peace to our former habitations/ This CONQUEST OF PERU. 133 resolution was instantly put in practice. The Peruvians dis- persed, and left the Spaniards in their capital. Had the force of the combatants be^n exactly equal, this singular policy of the natives might have been attended with the expected suc- cess. But the victor • of Pizarro put an end to Almagro''s life and to the liopes of the Peruvians. Pizarro, now freed from a aval, and master of the richest empire in the world, was still spurred on by ambition to un- dertake new enterprises. The southern countries into which he had some time before dispatched Almagi-o, presented the richest field for discovery and conquest. He therefore pro- ceeded in the track of Almagro into Chili, and reduced ano- ther part of that country. Orellana, one of his captains, passed the Andes, and sailed down to the mouth of the river of Amazons. On the banks of this immense navigation, some of the women, having attended their husbands into battle, as was not unusual in America, were found among the slain in armour. This gave rise to the fiction of a warlike race of females, re- sembling the ancient Amazons. The country through which Orellana passed was ricli,^nd delightful in the fruits of the earth ; but as it was chiefly champaign, and therefore not plentiful in minerals, the Spaniards disregarded it ; and have never yet made any settlements there. But, instead of returning to enjoy the repose which his condition required, Pizarro, on entering Quito, received ac- counts of a fatal event that threatened calamities more dread- ful to iiim than those through which he had passed The adherents of Almagro, considering themselves a» proscribed by the party in power, no longer entertained any hope of bet- tering their condition. Great numbers in despair resorted to Lima, where the house of young Almagro was always open to them, and the slender portion of his father's fortune,*which the governor allowed him to enjoy, was spent in affording them subsistence. The warm attachment with which every person who had served under the elder Almagro devoted him- self to his interest, was quickly transferred to his son, who was now grown up to the age of manhood, and possessed all the qualities which captivate the affections of soldiers. Of a jr. I' 134 CONQUEST OF PEUU. Wi^ graceful appearance, dexterous at all martial exercises, hold, open, generous, he seemed to he formed for command ; and as his father, conscious of his own inferiority, from the total warit of education, had l)een extremely attentive to have him instructed in every science becoming a gentleman ; the accom- plishments which ho had acquired heightened the respect of his followers, as they gave him distinction and eminence among illiterate adventurers. In this young man the Alma- grians found a point of union which they wanted, and looking up to him as their head, were ready to undertake any thing for his advancement. Many of them, destitute of common necessaries, and weary of loitering away life, a burden to their chief, or to such of their associates as had saved some remnant of their fortune from pillage and confiscation, longed impa- tiently for an occasion to exert their activity and courage, and began to deliberate how they might be avenged on the author of all their misery. Their frequent cabals did not pass unob- served ; and the governor was warned to be on his guard against men who meditated some desperate deed, and had re- solution to execute it. But either iVom the native intrepidity of his mind, or from contempt of persons whose poverty seemed to render their machinations of little consequence, he disregarded the admonitions of his friends. ' Be in no pain,' said he carelessly, * about my life ; it is perfectly safe, as long as every man in Peru knows that I can in a moment cut off any head which dares to harbour a thought against it.' This security gave the Almagrians full leisure to digest antl ripen exery part of their scheme ; and Juan de Herrada, an officer of great abilities, who had the charge of Almagro's education, took the direction of their consultations, with all the zeal which this connection inspired, and with all the authority which the ascendant that he was known to have over the mind of his pupil gave him. On Sunday, June 26th, 1541, at mid-day, the season of tranquillity and repose in all sultry climates, Herrada, at the head of 18 of the most determined conspirators, sallied out of Almagro'^s house in complete armour; and drawing their swords as they advanced hastily towards the governor's palace, CONQUEST OF PERU. 135 ;, bold, d; and lie total ave him ! accom- jspect of ininence le Alma- I looking ,ny thing common 1 to their remnant ed impa- rage, and he author ►ass unob- his guard id had re- ntrepidity e poverty |uence, he I no pain," fe, as long ^nt cut off it; This and ripen an officer education, 1 the zeal authority V the mind ; season of ada, at the Hied out of iwing their lor's palace, cried out, * I vi-ng live the king, but let the tyrant die !' Their associates, warned of their motions by a signal, were in arms at difterent stations ready to support them. Though Pizarro was usually surrounded by such a numerous train of attend- ants as suited the magnificence of the most opulent subject of the age in which he lived, yet as he was just risen from cable, and most of his domestics had retired to their own apartments, the conspirators passed through the two outer courts of the palace Uuobse 'ved. They were at the bottom of a stair-case, before a page in waiting could give the alarm to his master, who was amversine: with a few friends in a larije hall. The governor, whose steady mind no form of danger could appal, starting uj), called for arms, and commanded Francisco de Chaves to make fast the door. But that oificer, who did not retain so much presence of mind, as to obey this j)rudent order, running to the top of the stair-case, wildly asked the ccmspira- tors what they meant, and whither they were going. Instead of answering, they stabbed him to the heart, and burst into the hall. Some of the persons who were there threw them- selves from the w indows ; others attempted to fly ; and a lew drawing their swords, followed their leader into an inner apart- ment. The conspirators, animated with having the object of their vengeance now in view, rushed forward after them. Pi- zarro, with no other arms than his sword and buckler, defended the entry, and supported by his half brother Alcantara, and his little knot of friends, he maintained the unequal contest with intrepidity worthy of his past exploits, and with the vi- gour of a youthful combatant. * Courage V cried he, ' compa- nions, we are yet enow to make those traitors repent of their audacity V But the armour of the conspirators protected tliem, while every thrust they made took effect. Alcantara fell dead at his brother's feet ; his other defenders were mor- tally wounded. The governor, so weary that he could hardly wield his sword, and no longer able to parry the many wea- pons furiously aimed at him, received a deadly thrust full iis* his throat, sunk to the ground, and expired. As soon as he was slain, the assassins ran out into the streets, and waving their blootly sw(jrds, proclaimed the death of the 136 CONQUEST OF PERU. tyrant. Above 200 of their associates having joined them, they conducted young Almagro in solemn procession through the city, and assembling the magistrates and principtd citizens, compelled them to acknowledge him as legal successor to his father in his government. The palace of Pizarro, together with the houses of several of his adherents, were pillaged by the soldiers, who had the satisfaction at once of being avenged on their enemies, and of enriching themselves by tlie spoil of those through whose hands all the wealth of Peru had passed. The partisans of old Almagro now declared his son of the same name viceroy ; but the greater part of the nation, though not averse to tlie conspiracy which took off Pizarro, refused to concur in this determination. They waited the orders of the emperor Charles V. then king of Spain, who sent over Vaca di Castro, a man of the strictest probity, to be their governor. By him the young Almagro was defeated; and being tried and condemned, lost his life, together with the chief supporters of his cause. De Castro, by his wisdom and integrity, was admirably qualified to heal tlie wownds of the colony, and to place every thing on the most advantageous footing, both for it and for the mother country. By his prudent conduct, the mines of La Plata and Potosi, which had hitherto supplied the private plunderer, were converted into objects of public utility to the court of Spain. The parties, which had agitated the province from the very beginning, were either crushed or silenced ; and tranquillity was again restored to Peru. It appears, however, that de Castro, trusting, perhaps, too much to a conscious integrity, had neglected the usual pre- cautions of guilt, in securing the favour of the ministry by bribes or promises. By their advice, a council was sent out to controul Castro ; and the colony was again unsettled. The parties just composed, began to rage anew ; and Gonzalo, the brother of the famous Pizarro, set himself at the head of his brother's partisans, with whom many new malecontents had joined interests. It was no longer a private dispute between governors, aljout the bounds of their jurisdiction. Gonzalo Pizarro paid no more than a nominal submission to the king. He daily accumulated strength and resources ; and even went CONQUEST OF PERU. 137 [>r to his together aged by avenged 2 spoil of d passed, on of the 1, though refused to ers of the over Vaca governor. »eing tried supporters .grity, was ny, and to 5, both for mduct, the Lo supplied 3 of public (ad agitated crushed or so far, as to decapitate a governor who had been sent to curb him. He attached to his interest the admiral of the Spanish fleet in the South seas; by whose means he proposed to pre- vent the landing of troops from Spain ; and, in the plenitude of his presumption, meditated to unite the inhabitants of Mexico in his revolt. In this wretched ntuation stood affairs, when the Spanish court, sensible of its mistake in sending men into America from the influence of minions and the solicitation of cabals, without any regard to character and virtue, dispatched with unlimited authority Peter de la Gasca, a man of equal inte- grity with Castro, but superior in $he arts of address. These, however, we;*e not used to cloak vice or mask hypocrisy : a natural love of justice, a greatness of soul, and a disinterested spirit, were inherent qualities in both ; but Gasga set off these amiable qualities to advantage by the soft polish of conciliating manners. All those who had not joined in Pizarro^s revolt, began to flock under his standard; and many of Pizarro^s partizansy charmed with the behaviour of Gasga, forsook their old con- nexions. The admiral was gained over by insinuation to return to his duty and allegiance; and Pizarro himself was oflered a full indemnity on the same terms. But so intoxi- cating are the ideas of royalty, that Pizarro chose rather to hazard irretrievable ruin than submit to any oflicer of Spain. With those of his partizans, who still remained faithful to his cause, he determined to risk a battle. He was vanquished and taken jnisoner; and his execution speedily followed. Thus the brother of him, who had added Peru to the domi^ nions of Spain, fell a necessary sacrifice for the security of the acquisition. Vol. I. S VIEW OF AMERICA WHEN FIRST DISCOVERED. ^HE successful discoveries, and valuable acquisitions of the Spaniards on the rich continent of South America, soon excited the attention of other European nations to pursue similar measures by similar means; but the detail of their different expeditions, and of the revolutions that have taken place, neither falls within our plan, nor would it be generally interesting. It is sufficiently known, that flourishing colonies and independent states now exist, which were planted along that very extensive coast, reaching from the mouth of the river St. Lawrence in North America to Rio de la Plata in the South, some of which spread far within land ; besides the islands, in the gulf of Mexico and elsewhere. A description of these falls within the province of the geoprapher alone ; but before! 'we proceed in our intended course, it may not be amiss to throw together the general observations of various writers on the original inhabitants of this vast continent; to preserve the traces of character which time may obliterate, or an inter- course with Europeans efface. Such a disquisition will be no less gratifying to him who reads for pleasure, than to him who reads for profit. It will assist the speculations of the philoso- pher, and amuse ths leisure of the busy. When we contemplate the New World, the first circum- stance that strikes us is its immense extent. It was not a small portion of the earth, so inconsiderable, that it might VIEW OF AMERICA, &r. 139 sns of the irica, soon to pursue il of their tiave taken e generally ng colonies mted along uth of the la Plata in besides the description alone; but lot be amiss ious writers to preserve or an inter- in will be no to him who the philoso- first circum- t was not a lat it might have escaped the observation or research of former ages, which Columbus discovered. He made known a new hemisphere, larger than either Europe, or Asia, or Africa, the three noted divisions of the ancient continent, and not much inferior in dimensions to a third part of the liabitable globe. America is remarkable not only for its magnitude, but for its position. It stretches from the northern polar circle to a high southern latitude, above 1,500 miles beyond the farthest extremity of the old continent on that side of the Jine. A country of such extent passes through all the climates capable of becoming the habitation of man, and fit for yielding the various productions peculiar either to the temperate or to the torrid regions of the earth. Next to the extent of the New World, the grandeur of the objects which it presents to view is most apt to strike the eye of an observer. Nature seems here to have carried on her operations upon a larger scale, and with a bolder hand, and to have distinguished the features of this country by a peculiar magnificence. The mountains of America are much superior in height to those on the other divisions of the globe. Even the plain of Quito, which may be considered as the base of the Andes, is elevated farther above the sea than the top of the Pyrenees. This stupendous ridge of the Andes, no less remarkable for extent than elevation, rises in different places more than one-third above the peak of TeneriflPe, the highest land in the ancient hemisphere. The Andes may literally be said to hide their heads in the clouds; the storms (^t^n roll, and the thunder bursts below their summits, which,*t;^ough exposed to the rays of the sun in the centre of the torrid' zone, are covered with everlasting snows. From these lofty mountains descend rivers, proportionably large, with which the streams in the ancient continent are not to be compared, either for length of course, or the vast body of water which they roll towards the ocean. The Maragnon, the Orinoco, the Plata in South. America, the Mississippi and St. Lawrence in North America, flow in such spacious chan> nels, that, long before they feel the influence of the tide, they J'fSeinble arms of tlie sea rather than rivers of fresh water. I 140 VIEW OF AMERICA The lakes of the New World are no less csonspicuous for grandeur than its mountains and rivers. There is nothing in other parts of the globu whicli resembles the prodigious chain of lakes in North America. They may properly be termed inlund sean of fresh water ; and even thofte of the second or third class iu magnitude are of larger circuit, thp Caspian sea ex I'pted, than the greatest lake of the ancient continent. Tike New World is of a form extremely favourable to com- mercial intercourse. When a continent is formed, like Africa, of one vast solid mass, iml)roken by arms of the sea pene> traling into its iiiterlor parts, with few large rivers, ^nd those at a considerable distance from each other, the greater part of it sionis destined to remain for ever uncivilized, and to be de^iarred from any active or enlarged communication with the rest of mankind. When, like Europe, a continent is opened by itilets of the ocean of great extent, such as the Mediterra- nean and Baltic ; or when, like Asia, its coast is broken by deep bays advancing far into the country, such as the Black 9ea,. the gulfs of Arabia, of Persia, of Bengal, of Siam, find of Leotang; when the surrounding seas are filled with large and fertile islands, and the continent itself watered with ,'a variety of navigable rivers, those regions may be said to possess whatever can facilitate the progress of their inhabitants in comn\erce and improvement. In all these respects America may bear a comparison with the other quarters of the globe. The gulf of Mexico, which flows in between North and South America, may be considered as a Mediterranean sea, which opens a maritime commerce with all the fertile countries; by which it is encircled. The islands scattered in it are inferior only to those in the Indian Archipelago, in number, in mag- nitude, and in value. As we stretch along the northern divi- ' fiion of the American hemisphei^. the bay of Chesapeak presents a spacious inlet, which conducts the navigator far into the interior parts of provinces no less fertile than exten- sive , and if ever the progress of culture and population shall mitigate the extreme rigour of the climate in the more northern districts of America, Hudson"'s bay may become as subservient to commercial intercourse in that quarter of the globe, as thc> .EN FIRST DISCOVERED. 141 ler, in mag- Baltic it in Europe. The other great portion of the New World is encompassed on every side by the sct^ except one narrow neck, which separates the Atlantic from the Pacific ocean ; and though it be not opened by spacious bays or arms q£ the sea, its interior parts are rendered accessible by a num- ber of large rivers, fed by so many auxiliary streams, flowing m such various directions, that, almost without any aid from the hand of industry and art, an inland navigation may be carried on through all the provinces from the river dc la Plata to the gulf of Paria. Nor is this bounty of nature confined to the southern division of America; its northern continent abounds no less in rivers which are navigable almost to their sources, and by its immense chain of lakes provision is made for an inland communication, more extensive and commodious than in any quarter of- the globe. The countries stretching from the gulf of Darien on one side, to that of California on the other, which form the chain that binds the two parts of the American continent together, are not destitute of peccliar advantages. Their coast on one side is washed by the Atlan- ♦' 'lean, on the other by the Pacific. Some of their rivers . irtto the former, and some into the latter, and secure to them all the commercial benefits that may result from a com> munication with both. . u ,' . ">^;. But what most distinguishes America from the olthcr parts of the earth, is the peculiar temperature of its etimate, and the different laws to which it is subject with respect to the distribution of heat and cold. The maxims which are founded upon observation of our hemisphere will' not apply to *he other. In the New World, cold predominates. The rigour of the frigid zone extends over half of those regions, which should be temperate by their position. Countries where the grape and the fig should ripen, arc buried under snow one half of the year; and lands siluated in the same parallel with the most fertile and best cultivated provinces in Europe, are ^ chilled with perpetual frosts, which almost destroy the power of vegetation. As we advance to those parts of America which lie in the same parallel with provinces of Asia and Africa, blessed with an uniform enjoyment of such genial >\aimth as 142 VIEW OF AMERICA is most fnendly to life and to vegetation, the dominion of cold continues to be felt, and winter reigns, though during a short period, with extreme severity. If we proceed along the Ame- rican continent into the torrid zone, we shall find the cold pre- valent in the New World extending itself also to this region of the globe, and mitigating the excess of its fervour. While the negro on the coast of Africa is scorched with unremitting heat, the inhabitant of Peru breathes an air equally mild and temperate, and is perpetually shaded under a canopy of grey clouds, wh'^ch intercepts the fierce beams of the sun, without obstructing his friendly influence. Along the eastern coast of America, the climate, though mor.? airailar to that of the tor- rid zone in other parts of the earth, is nevertheless consider- ably milder than in those countries of Asia and Africa which lie in the same latitude. If from the southern tropic we con- tinue our progress to the extremity of the American, continent, we meet with frozen seas, and countries horrid, barren, and scarcely habitable for cold much sooner than in the north. \fter contemplating those permanent and characteristic qualities of the American continent, which arise from the pe- culiarity of its situation, and the disposition of its parts, the next object that merits attention is its condition when first dis- covered, as far as that depended upon the industry and ope. rations of man. As a great part of the ancient continent has long been occupied by nations far advanced in arts and indus- try, our eye is accustomed to view the earth in that form which it assumes when rendered fit to be the residence of a numerous race of men, and to supply them with nourishment. But in the New World, the state of maikind was ruder, and the aspect of nature extremely different. Throughout all its vast, region, there were only two mon.n'-c'iies remarkable for extent of territory, or distinguished by any progress in improvement. The rest of this continent was possessed bv small independent tribes, destitute of arts and industry, niul neither capable to correct the defeds, nor desirous to melioratf the condition of that prut of the ewrth' nllotted to them for their habitation. Countries, occupied by such [)ee of the other hemisphere. In the islands, there were only four kinds of quadrupeds known, the largest of which did not exceed the size of a rabbit. On the conti- nent, the variety was /^'reater ; and though the individuals of each kind could not fail of multiplying exceedingly, when al- most unmolested by men, who were neither so numerous, nor so united in society, as to be formidable enemies to the animal creation, the number of distinct species must still l)e considered as extremely small. Of 200 diffcrcn*, kinds of animals spread ove'' the face of the earth, onlv about one third existed in America at the time of its discovery. Nature was not *miy less prolific in the New World, but. she appears likewise to liavO been less vigorous in her productions. The animals ori- ginally belonging to this quarter of the globe appear to be of an inferior race, neither so robust, nor so fierce, as those of the other continent. America gives birth to no creature of such bulk as to be compp^ed with the elephant or rhinoceros, or that equals the lion and tiger in strength and ferocity. The \H VIEW OP AMERICA. »i<" j»n ft^nHiP I^Htt ■il ^' 1 '■ li^ ■ ii! \ i- !, f! tapyr of Brazil, the largest quadruped of the ravenous tribe in the New World, is not larger than a calf of isix months dd. The puma and jagwxr^ its fiercest beasts of prey, which Eu- ropeans have inaccurately denominated lions and tigers, possess neither the undaunted courage of the former, nor the ravenous cruelty of the latter. They are inactive and timid, hardly formidable to man, and often turn their backs upon the least appearance of resistance. The same qualities in the climate of America which stinted the growth, and enfeebled the spi. rits of its native animals, have proved pernicious to such as have migrated into it voluntarily from the other continent, or have been transported thither by the Europeans. The bears, ^e wolves, the deer of America, are not equal in size to those of the Old World. Most of the domestic animals, with which the Surope'xns have stored the provinces wherein they settled, have degenerated with respect either to bulk or quali- ty, in a country whose temperature and soil seem to be less favourable to the strength and perfection of the animal crea- tion. ' The same causes, which checked the growth and the vigour of the more noble animals, were friendly to the propagation and increase of reptiles and insects. Though this is not pecu- liar to the New World, and those odious tribes, nourished by heat, moisture, and corruption, infest every part of tk torrid zone ; they multiply faster, perhaps, in America, and grow to a more monstrous bulk. As this country is, on the whole, less cultivated, and less peopled, than the other quai*- ters oi' the earth, the active principle of life wastes its force in productions of this inferior form. The air is often darkened with clouds of insects, and the ground covered with shocking and noxious reptiles. The country around Porto Bello swum? with toAds in such multitudes, as hide the surface of the earth. At Guyaquil, snakes and vipers are hardly less numerous. Cifrthagena is infested with numerous flocks of bats, which annoy not only the cattle but the inhabitants. In the islands, lemons of ants hav6, at different times, consumed every vege- table production, and lefl the earth entirely bare, as if it had been burnt with fire. The damp forests, and rank soil of th« WHEN FIRST DISCOVERED. 145 ms tHbe nthft old. tiich Eu- )) possess rayenous I, hardly the least le climate d the spi- o such as itinent, or rhe bears, se to those nals, with lerein they k or quaih. to be less limal crea- «ountrie8 on the banks of the Orinoco and Maragnon, teem with almost every offensive and poisonous creature, which the power of a sultry sun can quicken into life. The birds of the New World ai-e not distinguished by qua- lities so conspicuous and characteristical, as those which we have observed in its quadrupeds. But in some districts of America, the unwholesome temperature of the air seems to be unfavourable even to this part of the creation. Tlie traveller is struck with the amazing solitude and silence of its forests. It is remarkable, however, that America, where the quadru- peds are so dwarfish and dastardly, should produce the candor, which is entitled to pre-eminence over all the flying tribe, in bulk, in strength, and in courage. The soil, in a continent so extensive as America, must, of course, be extremely various. In general, we may observe, that the moisture and cold, which predominates so remarkably in all parts of America, must have great influence upon the nature of its soil; countries lying in the same parallel with those regions which never feel the extreme rigour of winter in the ancient continent, are frozen over in America during a great part of the year. Chilled by this intense cold, the ground never acquires warmth suflicienu to ripen the fruits, which are found in the corresponding parts of the other conti- nent. But, if allowance be made i'< >v this diversity in i • de- gree of heat, the soil of iVnierica is naturally as rich anu i > rtile as in any part of the earth. As the country was thinly inha- bited, and by a people of little industry, who had none of the domestic animals, which civilized nations rear in such vast numbers, the earth was not exhausted by their consumption. The vegetable productions, to which the fertility of the soil gave birth, often remained untouched, and being suffered to corrupt on its surface, returned with increase into its bosom. As trees and plants derive a great part of tlicir nourishment from air and water, if they were not destroyed by man and other animals, they would render to the eartli more, perhaps, than they take from it, and feed rather than impoverisli it. Thus the unoccupied soil of America may have gone on en- riching for many ages. The vast number as well as enormous Vol. I.— (7) T 146 VIEW OP AMERICA size of the trees in America, indicate the extraordinary vigour of the soil in its native state. When the Europcpiis first be- gan to cultivate the New World, they were astonished at the luxuriant power of vegetation in its virgin mould ; and in se- veral places the ingenuity of the planter is still employed in diminishing and wasting its superfluous fertiUty, in order to bring it down to a state fit for profitable culture. Having thus surveyed the state of the New World at the time of its discovery, and considered the peculiar features and qualities which distinguish and characterise it, the next inquiry that merits attention is, How was America peopled ? By what course did mankind migrate from the one continent to the other ? and in what quarter is it most probable that com- munication Avas opened between them ? The original population of America is a curious but difficult question. Those, indeed, who deny that the whole human race sprung from the same source, find an easy solution of this problem ; but, as this supposition is generally rejected on the best grounds, we will briefly notice a few of the most ra- tional conjectures offered on this much agitated subject. There is hardly any nation from the north to the south pole, to which some antiquary, in the extravagance of conjec- ture, has not ascribed the honour of peopUng America. Some have supposed that it was originally unii^-J 1« Jic u^i;.lcat con- tinent, and disjoined from it by the shock of an earthquake, or the irruption of a deluge. Others have ima^ned, that some vessel being forced from its course by the violence of a westerly wind, might be driven by accident towards the Ame- rican coast, and have given a beginning to population in that desolate continent. But with respect to all those systems, it is vain either to reason or enquire, because it is impossible to come to any decision. It is a vain and frivolous attempt to discover the ori spinal of the Americans, merely by tracing the resemblance between their manners and those of any particular people in the an- cient continent. For the same wants and the same passions will always produce the same endeavours. It is, however, certain, that America was not peopled by any nation which WHEN FIRST DISCOVERED. 147 had made coniuderablr progress in civilization. For, although the elegant and refined arts may decline or perish, amidst the violent shocks of those revolutions and disasters to which na- tions are exposed, the necessary arts of life, when once they have been introduced among any people, are never lost. From ccmsidering the animals with which America is stored, we may conclude that the nearest point of contact between the old and new continents is towards the northern extremity of both, and that there the communication was opened, and the interoourse carried on between them. The actual vicmity of the two continents corroborates the truth of this conjecture. Indeed the possibility of a commu- nicaticm between the north-east promontory of Asia and the American continent rests no longer upon mere conjecture, but is established by undoubted evidence. Some tribe, or some families of wandering Tartars, from the restless spirit peculiar to their race, might migrate to the nearest islands, and, rude as their knowledge of navigation was, might, by passing from one to the other, reach at length the coast of America, and give a beginning to population in that continent. It is likewise evident fr(»n recent discoveries, that an inter- oourse between our continent and America might be carried on with less facility from the north-west extremities of Europe. As early as the ninth century [A. D. 830], the Norwegians discovered Greenland, and planted colonies there, and the north-west coast of Greenland is separated from America by a very narrow strut. The consanguinity of the Esquimaux and GreenlanderK is likewise demonstrated by a variety of facts. But though it be possible that America may have received its first inhabitant:!^ from our continent, ether by the north-west of Eur(^ or the north-east of Asia, there seems to be good reason for supposing that the progenitors of all the American nations, from cape Horn to the southern confines of Labrador, migrated from the latter rather than the former. The Esqui- maux are the only people of America, who, in their aspect or character, bear any resemblance to the northern Europeans. They are manifestly a race of men, distinct from all the na- tions of the American continent, in language, in disposition, ^^ 148 VIEW OF AMERICA and in habits of life. Their original, then, may warrantably be traced up to the source pointed out. But, among all the other inhabitants of America, there is such a striking simili- tude in the form of their bodies, and the qualities of their minds, that, notwithstanding the diversities occasioned by the influence of the climate, or uneqi-^al progress in improvement, we niust pronounce them to he descended from one source. It is remarkable, that in every peculiarity, whether in their persons or dispositions, which characterize the Americans, they have some resemblance to the rude tribes scattered over the north-east of Asia, but almost none to the nations settled in the northern extremities of Europe. The condition and character of the American nations, at the time when they became known to the Europeans, deserve more attentive consideration, tlian the enquiry concerning their original. The latter is merely an object of curiosity, the former is one of the most important as well as instructive re- searches which can occupy the philosopher or historian. The discovery of the 'Sew World enlarged the sphere of contem- plation, and presented nations to our view, in stages of their progress, much less advanced than those wherein they had been observed in our continent. In America, main appears under the rudest form in which we can conceive him to sub- sist. If we except the inhabitants of the two potent empires of Mexico and Peru, who, as we have seen, were compara- tively refined, the natives of America in general were unac- quainted with every European art. Even agriculture itself, one of the first and^by far the most useful art, was little known, or little cultivated. Tlie principle dependence for supplying the wants of animal life, was on hunting the wild beasts which the mountairis and woods abundantly supplied. This exercise, which is hr^re a serious and important study, gives a strength to the frame and agility to the limbs, unpa- ralleled among otRer nations. To the same cause, perhaps, it is owing, that in climates not too warm, their bodies are uncommonly straight, and well proportioned. They are mus- cular and vigorous, with flattish heads, which is the effect of art ; their features are regular ; but their modes of life give a WHEN FIRST DISCOVERED. 149 fierceness to their aspects. Their hair is long, black, and of a strong texture. The colour of the skin is a reddish brown : this is the tint most admired among them, and is therefore heightened by the use of bear's grease and paint. .d The character of these people is formed on, and influenced by the circumstances and way of living. Constantly occupied in procuring the means of a precarious subsistence by hunting; and frequently at the same time engaged in war with their neighbours, their temper is little suited to gaity, nor subject to an exhilaration - of spirits. They ai'e therefore generally grave to sadness: they possess none of that giddy vivacity, that high flow of soul which are peculiar to some nations in other parts of the world, and they despise them. Their de- portment is regular, modest, and respectful to those with whom they associate. Unacquainted with the pleasing arts of conversation, of saying trifles agreeably, or coiuplinieuting to be complimented again; they seldom speak but when they have something important to observe. All their actions, words, and even looks, are calculated to answer some pui-pose, and convey some meaning. This is natural to men who are always engaged in laborious pursuits, and ignorant of elegant amusements. Their subsistence wholly depends on their own toil and exertions ; their lives, their liberty, all tliat is dear may be lost by a momentary inattention to the views and de- signs of their enemies. Having no objects to attach them to one place more than another, they rove wherever the necessa.- ries of life are to be found in the greatest abundance. Cities and towns, the result of labour and application to arts, they have none. For this reason, the various tribes or nations ai'e broken into small societies, compared with civilized countries, in which, mutual wants and a reciprocal interchange of bene- fits have congregated numerous individuals into one political band. These small tribes are thinly dispersed ; they are in- sulated by a desert frontier, which it is an aggression to pass; and hid in the bosom of everlasting and almost impenetrable forests. A certain species of government is established in every par- ticular society^ which with little variation prevuls over the i IM VIEW OF AMERICA greatest part of this coDtinent Their muiners and modes of life being nearly similar, so are thar civil institutions also. Devoid of arts, ridies, or luxtnj^i^ the instruments of subjec- tion in polished society, and the incentives to obtain rule, an American has no means of rendering himself considerable among his countrymen, bat by a superiority in personal qtta^ IHies, or mental endowmwnta. But as nature has not been very lavish in her (Ustinetions, and the means of education are the same to all, there is a great degree of equality among them, and a desire to maintain it. Hence libertyr is the prevailing passion, to which all others are subsei vient ; and their government, influenced by this sentiment, is as effectually secured as by the wisest poli- tical regulations. They are far, however, £rom despising an authority, which they consider as legitimate, or from disclaim- ing a subjection to its decrees. The voice of wisdom is heard with regard ; the experieiice of the aged is respected by the young ; and they are ready to enlist under the banners of the chief whose prowess has entitled him to distinction, whose military address has inspired them with confidence. In every tribe, therefore, the power of a single chief, or of the collective body of the elders prevails ; and as the govern- ment inclines more to ihe one or the other, it may lie regarded as monarchial or aristocratical ; but founded on talents alone. Where war is the frequent pest, the power of the chief is pre- dominant, because the necessity of having a leader was the origin of his superiority ; and the continual exigencies of the State will continue to support and enhance the right to com- mand. The power <^ the chieftain, however, is rather kept up by persuanve arts, than coercive restraints ; he is rever- «iced as a father rather than dreaded as a monarch. In the ether form of government, the power of the elders is equally limited and exercised fat similar ends. In some tribes, in- deed, there is a kind of hereditary aristocracy, which having gained influence by time, has prc^rtionable effects. Business is here transacted with a simplicity which reaRift th& descriptions of eurly ages. The heads of families assemble on a^ spot aj^Knnted for the purpose : and here those of the WHEN FIRST DISCOVERED. Ill aodea of ms also. ' subjec- rule, an siderable mal qtttr itiiiotion») there in a ) maintain which all lenced by iseat poU- ispising an (i diaclaim- m is heard ted by the tiers of the tion, whose chief, or of the govern- ye regarded ilents alone, chief is pre- ler was the ncies of the ;ht to corn- rather kept e is rever- :h. In the is equally tribes, in- [hich having lich reaRifc lies assemble those of the nation who are most distinguished for eloquence or wisdom, have an opportunity of displaying their talents in the public discussion. The Indian ppttor, flow>9ry, figurative, strong, but unrefined in hitcmal. War being commenced, the grant! qualities are vigilance to prevent surprise, and attention to give one : and in these respects the Indians are superior to all other nations. They can trace out their enemies at an immense distance by the smell of their fires, and by the tracks of tlieir feet, impercep- tible to an Eurojiean eye ; but which they can count and dis- tinguish with the utmost precision. They can even discrimi- nate the different nations with which they are acquainted, and can determine the exact time when they passed, where no European, with the assistance of glasses, could distinguish a trace. These advantages, however, are of small importance, because their enemies r less possess them. But should the enemy be apprized of their design, and ad- vance to the combat in arms, they throw themselves flat on the ground among the withered herbs and leaves ; and start- ing all at once from their ambush, with a tremendous shout, assail tlieir foes. The party attacked returns the same cry. Where trees can be used as a shelter, each retires behind one, till prepared to repeat the blow ; and thus does the battle con- tinue till one party is so far weakened, as to be incapable of farther resistance. But should the force on both sides remain nearly the same, tlie fierce spirits of the savages, inflamed by the loss of their friends, can no longer submit to regular at- tack ( r ordinary precautions. They abandon the distant war; they rush on each other with clubs and hatchets, and magni- fying their own courage, and insulting the foe with the most bitter invectives. Death now appears in a thousand hideous forms. Heedless of any thing but revenge, they trample on the wounded; they insult even the dead; they scalp; they wallow in blood ; and even devour the flesh with a mad fero- city. The flame rages on till resistance dies away. The pri- soners are then secured. Unhappy men 1 the fate of their slaughtered companions was mild to theirs. The conquerors, as they approach their own villages, set up a hideous howl, to bewail the friends they have lost : they approach in a melan- choly and stem gloom. A messenger precedes them: and the WHEN FIRST DISCOVERED. 15a ! those gilance 1 these They by the ipercep- md dis- liscrimi- ted, and ^here no nguish a portance, , and ad- >8 flat on md start- »us shout, same cry. ehind one, iaattle con- capable of les remain flamed by regular at- istant war; md magni- h the most id ludeous trample on calp; they I mad fero- The pri- te of their conquerors, us howl, to in a melan- in: and the women, with frightful shrieks, come out to mourn their pri- vate losses. When they reach their abodes, the chief in u low tone relates to the elders a circumstantial account of the expc. dition, with all its turns. The orator then proclaims this in- telligence to the people; and as he recounts the names of those who have fallen, the cries of the females increase. The men too join in the expression of sorrow, according as each is con- nected with the deceased by the ties of blood or friendship. The last ceremony is the proclamation of victory. Each indi- vidual then endeavours tu forget his private misfortunes, and joins to celebrate the triumphs of his tribe. The shrieks are suspended, the tears wiped away; and, and by a wonderful transition, they pass from the bitterness of grief to the extra- vagance of exultation. But the treatment of the prisoners yet remains to be detailed ; it is that which chiefly characterizes the savages ; it is that which shocks the civilized, and shews the advantages of refinement. The person who has taken the captive attends him to the cottage ; when, according to the distribution made by the el- ders, he is to be delivered up to suj^ly the loss of a member of their community. If those who receive him think his ser- vices will be useful to them, he is immediately adopted into the family, and becomes one of its number in every respect. But if they have no occasion to augment their society, or if resentment for the loss of their friends stimulates them to seek revenge on all who were accessary to it, the sentence is inevi- table death. In this case, all who have received the same severe doom are collected ; and the whole nation is assembled, as if to cele- brate some distinguished festival. A scaflbld is erected, where the prisoners, being tied to the stake, commence the death song, and prepare for their approaching fate with undaunted mind. Their ungenerous and savage enemies, on the other hand, are determined to put. their courage to the proof, by the most exquisite tortures. They hegm the work of death at the extremities of the body, and gradually approach the vitals. One plucks out the nails of the captive by a slow pro- cess, another tears off the flesh of a finger with his teeth, and Vol. I. U 154 VIEW OF AMERICA a third thrusts the lacerated nieiiil)er into the Iwwl of a red-hot pipe, which he smokes Hke tol)acco. Then they pound the toes and fingers to pieces between stones : they strip the flesh with their teeth, and trace circles about the joints, and gashes in the muscular parts, which they immediately sear with red- hot irons, cutting, burning, and pinching alternately. The flesli, thus mangled and roasted, is sometimes devoured with greediness, morsel by morsel, while the blood serves to smear their faces, and to give the tormentors a look as infernal as their hearts. Having torn off the flesh, they twist the bare nerves and tendons about an iron, tearing and snapping them ; while others arc employed in stretching the limbs every way that ingemiity can devise, to increase the torment. This pnxiess continues for five or six hours together ; and such is the strength and fortitude of savages, that it has sometimes been extended to days. To protract the work of death they sometimes unbind the captive, to give a respite to their fury, and to invent new in«' flictions. He is again fastened to the stake, and again |ii&ji renew their cruelty. Even amid the temporary respite they sometimes give him, it has been known that a profound sleep has overtaken the victim, and that the application of fire was* necessary to awake him. He is now stuck over with matches of wood, easily kindled, but slow in consuming ; they pierce the borves and a ; while ^vay that is priKCSS ch is the imes been inbind the snt new in^ again t^ixf espite tKey bund sleep of fire was th matches they pierce the teeth, d the frame nd, having in it, ar i ^ain unbind with stones chiefs, per- ith revenge. The body feast is the iguished for the women, if possible, outdo the men in this scene of horror, while the principal persons of the country form a circle round the stake, and smoke on without emotion. But what will most surprize is, that the suiferer himself, in tlie intervals of his torments, smokes too, and converses with indifference. Indeed, seldom does a groan escape him, amidst the most aggravated suffer- ings. He endures them all with a fortitude and a constancy more than human. He possesses his mind unmoved ; not a distortion of face betrays the anguish he endiucfs. He re- counts his exploits ; he boasts what cruelties he has inflicted on their countrymen, and menaces them with the icvcnge that will attend his death. Though exasperated to madness by his reproaches, he continues his insults, upbraids them with their ignorance in the science of tormenting ; and points out more efficacious means. Even the women possess the same degree of resolution and torture: to suffer without emotion is the pride, the gbry of an Indian. Such is the force of inbred habits^ and a ferocious thirst of frame. The history of human nature does not furnish a stronger contrast than this cruelty of the savages towards those with whom they are at war, and the warmth of their affection to their fritofl" When any member of the society is cut off, he is lamented by the whole with a thousand demonstrations of genuine sorrow. One of the most remarkable ceremonies used on this melancholy occasion, and which discovers both the intenseness and the continuance of their grief, is Avhat they denominate the feast of souls. This day of awful form is ap- pointed . by public order ; and no care is neglected to render the celebration magnificently solemn. The neighl)ouring tribes are invited to join in the solemnity. On this occasion, all who have died since the last commemoration (which is renewed every eight or ten years) are disinterred, and brought to the general rendezvous of corruption. It is impossible to describe the horror of this scene in more lively terms than those which Lafitau has used. ' Unquestion- ahiy,' says he, * the opening of these tombs displays one of the most striking scenes that can be conceived; this humbling portrait of human misery, in so many images of death, wherein 156 VIEW OF AMERICA in: I slie seems to take a pleasure to paint herself in a thousand va- rious shapes of horror, according to the degree which cor- ruption has prevailed over them, or in tlie manner in which it has attacked them. Some appear dry and withered; others have a sort of parchment on their bones ; some look as if they were baked and smoked, without any appearance of putridity ; some are just verging to the poh t of putrr-faction ; while others are swarming with worms, and a mass of corruption. I know not which ought to strike us most; the horror of audi a shock- ing sight, » r the tender pity and affection of these p(X)r people towards their departed friends. For nothing deserves our admiration more, than that eager zeal and attention with which they discharge this melancholy duty of their respect ; gathering up carefully even the minutest bones, handling the carcases, disgustful as they are with every thing loathsome, cleansing them from the worms, and carrying them on their shoulders through tiresome journies of several days, without sinking imder their burden, or the offcnsiveness of the smell, and without suffering any emotions to intrude, but those of regret for having lobt persons so dear to them in life, so la- mented in death. ' Having bicught the remains into their cottages, they pre- pare a feast in honour of the d^ad ; during which their heroic actions are celebrated, and all tlie tender intercourses that took place between them and their surviving friends are piously called to mind. Even the strangers, who sometimes attend from very remote tribes, join in tender condolence ; and the natural shrieks of the lemaies prove, that they are penetrated with the shar})est sorrow. I'he :lead are then carried out to be re-i.ueiTcd. A large pit is dug in the grourl and thither, '.t a certain tine, each person, attended by liis family and friondr^ marches in solemn silence, bearing the dust of a nt-ar and tender relatitm. Wheii thoy are all convened, the dead bodieis are deposited in the pit together, with what valuables they rvjost esteemed, and e\ ^n the presents of strangers ; and then the torrent of grief breaks out afresh. After this tlicy descend into the pit ; and each supplies himself with a iittle of the earth, which is preserved * ith religious core. Tii( WHEN FIRST DISCOVERED. 157 and va- lich cor- n which i; others is if they »utridity; ile others I know h a shock- jor people ,erves our itiou with r respect; iidUng the loathsome, :m on their ^'9, without the smell, (Ut those of I life, sola- h tliey prc- their heroic les that took arQ piously imes attend e; and the e penetrated rricd out 10 and thither, family and ust of a n«"ar ed, the dead lat valuables rangers; ft"^ fter this they f with a little care. 1''^ bodies, ran^jed in order, are covered with fresh furs, and over these with bark, on which t''iey heap wood, earth, and stonos. Thon taking a last aditu, they return to their homes.* Though religion i^ not a very prevailing sentiment among the savages, religious impostors are as numerous here as in any country ; and sonu' ol' them tu t their part with much dex- terity and success. These, when their character is once esta- blished on the pipulur belief of their supernatural powers, not only prescribe laws and observances, but even undertake to unfold the mysteries of' futurity, aud to solve and interpret visions and dreams. They, in gejieral, represent the other world as a place abounding with an inexhaustible plenty of every tiling desireable ; and that the full and exquisite grati- fication of all the senses shall be the reward of the conduct they p-escribe. Hence the Indians meet death with a stoical apathy. The news, that they have but a few hours to live, communicates no alarm. An American, on the brink of eter- nity, harangues I 'is family and friends with spirit and compo- sure; and gives his dying advice with the same collected mind, as if he were directing in daily occupations. It will immediately be recognized, that the preceding re- marks apply chicfiy to tUe Xarth American Indians. In our account of the conqiiests of Mexico and l*eiu it appeared, that the original inhabitants of South Anieriea were very different. Such of the inhabitants of the Ni!w World as first fell under the observation of Europeans, differed essen.sially from those we have just described, and from the generality of people in the ancient hemisphere. They are generally more feeble in their frames, and less vigorous in their mental efforts. Their spirit is more mild and gentle ; but they are enervated by in- dolence and a love of pleasure, and timid and irresolute in all their pursuits. VOYAGE OF DON GEORGE JUAN AND DON ANTONIO DE ULLOA TO SOUTH AMERICA. nnHE Spaniards are by no means a literaiy nation, and a^ far as an intimate knowledge of their American settle- ments extends, foreigners, from kvant of opportunity, must Im; confessedly deficient. It is therefore with pleasure we enter on the present voyage, not less distinguished for accuracy and fidelity, than for the abilities of the writer, and the ample scope his situation gave him for enquiry and remark. The expedition, which gave rise to this narrative, was undertaken by the command of the king of Spain, and the original was published at Madrid under his direction. In oiYler to determine the true figure of the earth, it yrm a desi- dei|*atum to measure a degree of the meridian near the equator. For this purpose, Louis XV. had applied to the Spanish mo- narch to be ixjnnitted to send some of the Iloyal Academy of Sciences at Paris to Quito, which is situated "eai the equator, that they might make the nec<>ssary observations for solving a problem of such in»jx)rtance to the sciink'cs in general, and to those of geography and navigation in particular. The king of VOYAGE OF JUAN AND ULLOA. 159 Spain, not only yielding to this honourable solicitation, but animated with a desire of sharing in the glory of so noble a design, appointed Don Geouge Juan and Don Antonio de Ulloa, both captains in the Spanish navy, and very able mathematitiaTin, to accompany the French delegates to Quito, bnd io assist them in an undertaking at once arduou:> and im- portant. These gentlemen embarked at Cadiz on the 26th of May, 1735; and afti;r some im})ediments from contrary winds, with- out any other material occurrence, came to an anchor in Car- thagena bay, on the 9th of July. The city of Carthagena stands in 10 deg. 25 min. 48^ sec. north latitude, artd in the longitude of 282 deg. 28 min. 26 sec. from the meridian of Paris. The variation of the needle, they also, from several observations, found to he eight degrees easterly. The advar»tageous situation of Carthagena, the extent and security of its bay, and the great share it attained of the com- merce of that southern continent, soon caused it to be erected into a city ; and the same circumstance contributed to its pre- servation and increase, so that it soon became the most es- teemed settlement and staple of the Spaniards; but, at the wsame time, these advantages also drew on it the hostilities of foreigners, who, thirsting after its riches, or induced by the importance of the place itself, have several times taken and plundered it. The city is situated on a sandy island, which, forming a narrow passage on the south-west, opens a communication with that part called Tierra Bomba, as far as Boca Chica. The land is so narrow on the north side, that, originally, the distance from sea to sea was only S5 fathoms; but afterwards en- larging, forms anoth ?r island on this side ; and the whole city is, excepting these two places, which are very nairow, entirely surrounded by the sea. Eastward, it communicates hy means of a wooden bridge : the fortifications, iMjth of the city and suburbs, are constructed in the modern form, and lined witli free-stone. The city and suburbs of Cartliagena are well laid out, the streets being straight, broad, uniform, and well paved. The 160 VOYAGE OF houses are built of stone, except a few, which are of brick ; but consist chiefly of only one story a'love the ground floor; the apartments, however, are well contrived. All the houses have balconies and lattices of wood, as being more durable, in this climate, than iron, which is soon corroded and dj^troyed by the moisture and acrimonious quality of the nitrous air. All the churches and convents are elegant and sufficiently ca- pacious ; but there appears something of poverty in the orna- ments, and some of them want what even decency requires. To the above circumstantial description of the city of Car- thagena, it may not be amiss to add a short account of its inhabitants, which nuiy be divided into diff\jrent casts or tribes, who derive their origin from a coalition of whites, negi'oes, and Indians. These different casts, from the mulattoes, all aff'ect the Spa- nish dress, but wear very slight stuff's, on account of the heat of the climate. These are the mechanics of the city; the whites, whether Creoles or chapitones, disdaining such mean occupations, Ibllow nothing below merchandize. But it being imjiossiblc for all to succeed, great numbers, not being able to procure sufficient creitit, become poor and miserable, from their aversion to those trades they follow in Europe ; and, in- stead of the riches, which they flattered themselves with pos. sessing in the Indies, they experience the most complicated wretchedness. The class of negroes is divided into two paru^, the free men and the slaves ; the latter are employed in the farms and vil- lages, and part in the city. Those in the city are obliged to perform the most laborious services, and pay out of their wages a certain quota to their masters ; subsisting themselves on the small remainder. The violence of the heat not permitting them to wear any clothes, their only covering is a small piece of cotton stuff' about their w^st ; the female slaves go in the same manner. Some of these live at the farm houses, being married to the slaves who work there ; while those in the city sell in the markets all kinds of eatables, and dry fruits, sweet- meats, cakes innde of maize and cassava, and several other things about the streets. Those who have children sucking JUAN AND ULLOA. 161 :t the Spsu of the heat ' city; the such mean Jut it being beuig able table, from b; and, in- js with pos- compUcated he free men rms and vil- e obhged to their wages selves on the permitting small piece OS go in the ►uses, being ie in the city fruits, sweet- sveral other [iren sucking at their breasts, carry them on their shoulders, in order to have their arms at liberty; and when the infant is hungry, they give them the breast, either under the arm or over the shoulder, without taking them from their backs. This will, perliaf)^^ appear incredible, but their breasts being left to ^ow, vithout any pressure on them, often hang down to their very waists. In the house, the whole exercise of the ladies consists in sitting in their hammocks, and swinging themselves for air. This is so general a custom, that there is not a house without two or three, according to the number of the family. In these they pass the greater part of the day ; and often men, as well as women, sleep in them, without minding the inconveniency of not stretching the body at full length. Both sexes are observed to be possessed of a great share of wit and penetration, and also of a genius proper to excel in all kinds of mechanic arts. This is particularly conspicuous in those who apply themselves to literature, and who, at a tender age, shew a judgment and perspicacity, which, in other cli- mates, is attained only by a long series of years, and the the greatest application. This liappy disposition continues till they are between 20 and 30 years of age, after which they generally decline as fast as they rose ; and frecjucntly, bef»)re they arrive at that age, when they sliould begin to reap the advantage of their studies, a natural indolence checks then- farther progress, and they forsake the sciences, leaving thtt surprising effects of their capacity Inipcrfect. The principal cause of the short duration of such promising beginnings, and of the indolent turn so often swn in these bright genuises is, doubtless, the want of proper objects for exercising their faculties, and the small hopes of being prefer- red to any post answerable to the pains they have taken : for, as there is in this country neither army nor navy, and the civil employments very few, it is not at all surprising, that the despair of making their fortunes by this method, should damp their ardour for excelling in the sciences, and plunge them into idleness, the sure forerunner of vice. The same ii Vol. I. X 10« VOYAGE 01? evident in the mechanic arts, wherein they easily excel and speedily decline, from the causes already mentioned. One of the most favourite amusements of the natives here, is a ball, or fandango, after the manner of the country. And these are the distinguished rejoicings on festivals and remark- able days. These diversions, in houses of distinction, are conducted in a very regular manner ; they open with the Spa- nish fiances, and are succeeded by those of the country, which are not without spirit and gracefulness. The fandangos, or balls of the populace, consist principallV in drinking brandy and wine, intermixed witii indecent and scandalous motions and gestures ; and these continual rounds of drinking soon give rise to quarrels, which often bring on misfortunes. When any strangers of rank visit the city, they are generally at the expence of these balls, and as the entrance is free to all, and no want of liquor, they need give themsblves iio concern about the want of company. Their burials and mournings are also something singular, as in this particular they endeavour to display their grandeur and dignity, too often at the expense of their trahquillitj . If the deceased be a person of condition, his body is placed on a pompous catafalco, erected on the principal apartmetit of the house, amidst a blaze of tapers. In this manner the corpse lies 24 hours, or longer, for the acqutuntance of the family to visit it at all hours ; and likewise, the lower class of women, among whom it is a custom to come and lament the deceased. The funeral, also, is accompanied with the like noisy lamenta- tions ; and even after the corpse is deposited in the grave, the mourning is continued in the house for nine days. The French mathematicians anived at Carthagena on th« l6th of November, 1735, where they were joined by the Spa- nish artists ; and on the 24th, they all embarked on \K)ard a French frigate for Porto Bello. The passage was very short and pleasant ; so that on the 29th of the same month, thdy came to an anchor in Porto Bello harbour. The town of St. Philip de Porto Bello, according to their observations, stAndi in 9 deg. 34 min. 35 sec. north latitude. This harbour \^ fli-scovered on the 2d of November, 1502, by Chtisto^hef JUAN AND ULLOA. 163 Columbus, who was so charmed with its extent, depth, and lecu /, that he gave it the name of Porto Bello, or the Fine Harbour. The town stands near the sea, on the declivity of a moun- tain siurounding the whole harbour. Many of the houses are built with wood, but in some the first story is of stone, and the remainder of wood : they are about 130 in number, and most of them large and spacious. It is under the jurisdiction of a governor, with the title of lieutenant-general, under the president of Panama. At the east end of the town is a quar- ter called Guinea; because there all the negroes, whether alaves or free, have their habitations. This quarter is much crowded, when the galleons are in the harbour, most of the inhabitants of the town entirely quitting their houses at that season, for the advantage of letting them. In a large track between the town and Gloria Castle, bar- racks are erected, and principally filled with the ship crews, who keep stalls of sweetmeats, and other kinds of eatables, brought from Spain. But after the conclusion of the fail', when the ships are sailed, all those buildings are taken down, and the town returns to its former tranquillity and emptiness. The harbour of Porto Bello is extremely commodious for all sorts of ships or vessels ; and, though its entrance is very wide, it is well defended by fort St. Philip de todo Fierro. It stands on the north point of the entrance, which is about 600 fathoms broad ; but the south side being full of ridges of rocks, extending to some distance from the shore, a ship is obliged to stand to the north, through the deepest part of the channel, which lies in the middle of the entrance, and thus continues in a straight direction. Among the mountains, which surround the whole harbour of Porta Bello, beginning from St. Philip de todo Fierro, or the Iron Castlt, and without any decrease of height, extend- ing to tlie opposite point, one is particularly remarkable by its superior altitude, as if designed for the barometer of the coun- try, by foretelling every change of weather. This mountain distinguiiihed by the name of Capiro, stands at the utmost ex- tremity of the harbour, in the road to Panama. 164 VOYAGE OF '^flVI ■H ' wffl^^H all?i^UiRH^ •^K^^^ni I^^^^^BV Mf^^H&'^UBi nHuMi ^^Ih^H Its top is always covered with clouds of a density and dark- ness seldom seen in this atmosphere ; and from these, which are called the capillo, or cap, has possibly been corruptly formed the name of Monte Capiro. When these clouds thicken, increase their blackness, and sink below their usual station, it is a sure sign of a tempest : while, on the other hand, their clearness and ascent as certainly indicate the ap- proach of fair weather. It must, however, be remembered, that these changes are very frequent, and almost instantaneous. The iifclemency of the climate of Porto Bello is sufficiently known all over Europe. Not only strangers who come thither are affected by it, but even the natives themselves suffer in various manners. It destroys the vigour of nature, find often untimely cuts the thread of life. The heat is excessive, being augmented by the situation of the town, which is surrounded with high mountains, without any interval for the winds whereby it might be refreshed. The trees on these mountains stand so thick as to intercept the rays of the sun ; and conse- quently liinder them from drying the earth under them; hence copious exhalations from large clouds, which precipitate them- selves in violent torrents of run. But these are no sooner over, than the suii breaks forth afresh, and shines with his former splendour ; though scarcely has the activity of his rays dried the surface of the ground, till the atmosphere is again clouded by another collection of thick vapours, and the sun again concealed : the night is also subject to the same vicissi- tudes. These torrents of rain are accompanied with such tempests of thunder and lightning, as must daunt the most resolute. This continual inclemency, added to the fatigue of the sea- men in unloading the ships, renders them weak and faint; and they, in order to recruit their spirits, have recourse to brandy, of which there is, on these occasions, an incredible consumption. The excessive labour, immoderate drink, and the inclemency and unhealthiness of the climate must jointly destroy the best constitutions, and produce those deleterious diseases so common in this country. But it is not the seanien alone who are subject to these diseases; others, who arc JUAN AND ULLOA in strangers to the cea9 and not concerned in the fatigues, are also attacked by Leiu ; and, consequently, is a sufficient de- monstration, that the other two are only collateral, though they tend both to spread and inflame the distemper. On some occasions, physicians have been sent for from Carthagena, as being supposed to be better acquainted vrith the properest methods of curing the distempers of this country, and, conse- quently, more able to recover the seamen: but experience has shewn, that this intention has been so little answered, that the galleons, or other European ships, which stay any time here, seldom leave it without burying half, or at least one- third, of their men ; and hence this city has, with too much reason, been termed the grave of the Spaniards ; but it may, with much greater propriety, be applied to those of other na* tions who visit it. The number of the inhabitants of Porto Bello, by reason of its smallness, and the inclemency of its climate, is very in- considerable, and the greatest part of these are negroes and mulattoes, there being scarce 30 white families ; for all who, by commerce or their estates, are in easy circumstances, re- move to Panama, so that those only stay at Porto Bello, whose employments oblige them to it. Provisions are scarce at Porto Bello, and consequently dear, particularly during the time of the galleons and the fair, when there is a necessity for a supply from Carthagena and Pana- ma. The only thing in plenty here is fish, of which there is a great variety, and very good. Is also abounds in sugar- canes, so that the chacaras, or farm houses, if, indeed, they deserve that name, are built of them. Fresh water pours down in streams from the mountains, tome running without the town, and others crossing it. These waters are very light and digestive, and, in those who are used to them, good to create an appetite; qualities, which, in other countries, would be very valuable, but are here perni- cious. This country seems so cursed by nature, that what is in itself good, liecomes here destructive. For, doubtless, this water is too active and fine for the stomachs of the inhabitants; 16G VOYAGE OF and thui produces dyientenes, the lost ttage of all other dii- tempers, «nd which the patient very seldom sur\'ives. The rivulets, in their descent from the mountains, form little re. •enroirs or ponds, whose coolness is increased by the slmde of the trees ; and in these all the inhabitants of the town bathe thmnselves constantly, every day, at eleven in the morning; and the Europeans fail not to follow an example so pleasant and conducive to health. As the forests almost border on the houses of the town, the tigers often make incursions into the streets, during the night, carrying off fowls, dogs, and other domestic creatures; and lometimes, even boys have fallen a prey to them ; and it is certain, that ravenous beasts, after tasting human flesh, pre- fer it to all others. Beside the snares usually laid for them, the negroes and mulattoes are very dexterous in cnccimtering the tiger ; and some, on account of the slender reward, seek them in their retreats. The arms, in this onset, are only a lance c£ two or three yards in length, made of a very strong wood, with the point of the same hardeneH in the fire ; and a kind of cimeter, about three quarters ui a yard in length. Thus armed, they stay till the creature makes an assault on the left arm, which holds the lance, and is wrapped up in a short doak of bays. Sometimes the tiger, aware of the dan- ger, seems to decline the combat; but his antagonist provokes him with a slight touch of the lance, in order, while he is defending himself, to strike a sure blow : for as soon as the creature feels the lance, he grasps it with one of his paws, and with the other strikes at the arm which holds it. Then it is tHat the person nimbly aims a blow with his cimeter, whidi he kept concealed in the other hand, and hamstrings the tiger, which immediately draws back enraged, but returns to the charge; when, receiving anotlier sucJi stroke, he is totally .deprived of his most dangerous weapons, and. rendered inca- pable of moving. After which the person kills him at his l^ure ; and stripping off his skin, and cutting off the head, .md the fore and hind feet, returns to the town, displaying tboie as the trophies of his victory. juaK and ulloa. 18T AiBAii^ the great variety of animals in tliis country, one of the most remarkable is the Perico ligero^ or nimble Peter, an ironical name given it on account of its extreme slug^shness. This disgusting creature is well known to naturalists by the name of the sloth. When he moves, every effort is attended with sudi a plaintive, and at the snmo time so disagreeable, ft cry, as at once produces pity und disgust. In this cry consists his whole defence ; for, it being natural for him to fly at the first hostile approach of any beast, lie mukes, at every motion, sirch howHngs as axi} pvcu insupportable to his pursuer, who soon quits him, .md even flies beyond the hearing of his horrid noise. Nor is it only during the time he is in motion that he makes these cries; he rejjeats them while he rests himself, continuing a long time motionless before he takes another mKich. The food of this creature is generally wild fruits; and when he can find none on the ground, he looks out for a tree well loaded, which, with a great deal of pains, he climbs; artd, in order to save himself such another toilsome ascent, plucks off all the fruit, throwing them on the ground; and to avoid the pain of descending the tree, forms himself into a a ball, and drops from the branches. At the foot of this tree he continues till all the fruit is consumed, never stirring till hunger forces him to seek again for food. Porto Bello becomes, at the time of the galleons, one of the most populous places in all South America. Its situation on the isthmus, bet>rixt the south and north sea, the goodness of its harbour, and its small distance from Pimama, has g^ven it the preference for the rendezvous of the joint oommeroe of Spain and Peru at its fair. Soon after the Spanish and French mathematicians arrived at Porto Bello, they sent advice of it to the president of Pa- nama, requesting him to send some of the vessels used in the navigation of the river Chagre, to carry them to Panama ; as their instruments I'endered it impossible for them to travel throu^ the narrow craggy rocks leading from Porto Bello to that city. He readily complied with their request, and im- mediately dispatched tv,. vessels to Porto Bello; on board which they all embarked on the J2JW of December, and rowed M'-^ 168 VOYAGE OF out of Porto Bello harbour, and at four in the evening, landed at tlic custom-house, at the mouth of the river Chagre. Thii river hu> il» -iourco in the inouiilaiuM near the town of Cruces. Its ctiU'iuice at the north sea Is di'lcnded by a fort, situated on a slot'p rock tienr the sca^Hliore, on the east side of the river. AluHit HO yards from this lort is tlie town of San Lo. ren/o de ('liagres. Perhaps nothing ciin excel the pros])rcts which the rivers of this country exhibit. The most fiTlile imagination of a pain, ter can never e(}ual the magnificence of the rural landitcapci which are here to be seen. The groves, which shade the plains, and extend their branches lo the river, are inhabited by an infinite variety of creatures. Tlie different species of monkies, skij)ping in troo})8 from tree to tree, hanging fi-(«n the branches; in t)lher places six or eight of tliem linked to- gether, in order to pass a river ; the dams with their young on theii" slioultlers, throwing themselves into cxld {wstures, and making a tiiousand grimaces, will appear fictitious to those who have never seen them. But if the birds be added, our reason fl)r admiration will be greatly increased : for here is an amazing abundance, whose plumage glitters with all the colours of the rainbow. On their arrival at Cruces, they were entertained by the alcade of the town ; and on the 27th set out on their journey to Panama, which they reached in the evening. The first wanted on the president, who received them all in the most cordial and endearing manner. Some indispensable prepara- tions detained them hunger at Panama than they expected. But at lenin})en- Bated by the multitude and vaUie of the pearls ^bund in the oysters of the gulph ; and particularly those near the Islands del Rey Tabago, and others to the number of forty-three, forming a small archipelago. There are few persons of sub- stance near Panama, who do not employ all, or at least part of; ^h':'h' slaves in this fishery ; the manner of which not being comn»only kmiwn, it will not be improper to describe it here. The owners of the negroes employ the most proper persons for tliis fishery ; which Ix'ing performed at the bottom of the cea, they nnist be both expert swimmers, and capable of holding their breath a long time. These they send to the islands, where thoy have huts built for their lodgings, and boats whicli hold eigli* ten, or twenty negrot^s, under the ctMnniantl of an officei In these boats they go to such parts as are known to })r<)duce pearls, and where the depth of the water is not above ten, twelve, or fifteen fathoms. Here they come to an anchor ; and the negroes having a rope fastened round their bodies, and the other end to the side of the boat, they tiike witli them a small weight to accelerate their sinking, send plunge into the water. On reaching the l»ottom, they iake up an o} r^ter, whict> they put under the left arm : the Si't'osul they hold in their left hand, and the third J!; ihcir right : witli these three oysters, and srjmetimea aiiothcj* in their mouth, they rise to breathe, and put them in a bag. When thev have rested themselves a while and recovered their itfeath, they dive a second time ; and thus continue, till they have either completed theii- task, or strength fails them. Every one of those negro divers, is obliged daily to deliver his mas- ter a certain fixed number of pearls; so thai when they have got the requisite number of oysters in tlieir bag, they begin to open them, and deliver the pearls to the officei-, till they have made up the number due to their master. The remain- der is the property of the negroes. Ik' ide the toil of this fishery, from the oystei-s strongly adht'iinu; to the rocks, they are also in no small danger from go*HO kinds of fish, which either seize the negroes, or by striking on theai, crush them to tiic bottom. The fishery an JUAN AND ULLOA. 171 1 in the ! Islands ty-three, \ of sub- east part not being 1 it here. !r persons am of the apable of nd to the Tings, and under the such parts pth of the Here they pe fastened ►f the Iwat, teir sinking, •ttom, they iftarai- the lird ir. their another in 11 in a bag. lovered their ic, till they Ihem. Every jver his mas- ;n they have they hegin ei-, till they ' 'he remain- U-s strongly [danger from trees, or by xe fishery »«» the whole coast is olnoxious to the same danger from those fish; but they are much more iieciuttnt where such ricliea alwund. The tabp'ones and lintoretas, v hicli aie of an enor- mous size, feed on the biKlies of tliese unfortunate fishermen ; and the mantas, or quilts, oitlier press them to de.itli, by wrapping their fins about them, or cruHJi them with their prodigious weight. Every negro, to dei'end hinjself against these animals, car» ries witli him a shaip knife, with which, if the fish offers to assault him, he endeavours to strike it in a part where it has no power to hurt him ; on which the fish immediately flies. The officers keep a watchful eye on these voracious creatun^, and on disov.»vering them, shake the rope, fasteiied to the ne- gi-oes Ixnlies, that they may be u})on their (^uard. Every thing being now ready fur thciir departure, they em- harked on board the St. Christopher, commanded by ca{)tain Don Juan Manuel Morrel; and on the 9th of March, 1736, about three in the evening, they came to an andjor in Manta bay ; being tlesirous of viewing this coast, in order to know whether by forming theii* first Iwuse in one of its plains, the series of triangles could be continued to the mountains in the neighbourhood of Quito. Accordingly they went on sliore in the evening of tlie sixth, and repaired to the village of Monta Christo, alyyut three leagues from the coast ; but soon IoujmI that getnnetrical operations were impracticable there, the coun- try being every where extremely mountainous, and almost wholly coveretl with prodigious trees, an insurmovmtabie ob- stacle to any such design : they tlierefore determined to punua their voyage to Guiaquil, and thence to Quiio. The Imy of Manta was forn^criy remarkable for a consider- able pearl fishery, but it has been discontinued i'or some time. The bay has probably its name from the great quantitv of mantas in those parts; the Indian inhabitants being chiefly employed in taking that fish, which they suit, and carry to the inland provinces, Europeans cannot U'-lp admiring their dexterity in this kind of fishery, which they carry on in the following manner r They throw into the water a Jog of wood, «uch at \hey use in making a balza, being about five or lix 'Mi { s 1 .'■■ 172 VOYAGE OF yards in length, and near a f»)ot in diajiieter. This log will be suflicient to support tlie ivciglit intended, wliich consists of a net lying across one end of it, and un Indian standing in an ei*ect position on the other. On this tottering vessel, assisted by only a single oar, he puts off to sea, about tlie distance of half a league, where he shoots his net. Another Indian fol- lows hun on a similar log, takes hold of the rope fastcntfd to one end of the net, by which means the whole is expanded, and both the Indians move towards the land, where their partners wait to draw the net on the shore. In this occupa* fjon the dexterity and agility of the Indians, in maintaining an equilibrium on the round logs, is truly amazing; for the continual agitation of the sea renders it absolutely necessary for them to be continualiy clmn<^ng their position, and making different motions with their bodies; and what still heightens the difficulty is, that the Indian is at the same time obliged to mind both his oar and his net, in drawing it towards the land. On March 13, they left the buy of Manta, and coasted along shore, within the island de la Data. On the 18th, they anchored in the mouth of the river Tumbez, where thcj remained till the 20th ; when at six in the morning they got under sail, and on the 25th, at live in the evening, landed at Guiaquil, which stands in 2 deg. 11 niin. 21 sec. south lati- tude. Guiacpiil is of considerable extent, taking up, along the banks of the river, from the lower part f)f the old town to the upper j)art of the new, a space of near half a league ; but the breadth is not at all propojtionaJ, every person being fond of having a house near the river. Thia city is defended by three forts; two on the river near the city, and the thin, be- hind it, guarding the entrant j of a ravin. These are all built after the modern method of tbrtiHcation, but before they were erected, it had only a })latforni, v/hich is still remaining in the eld town. All the churches and cM^u^ents are of wood, except that of St. Domingo, still standing in the old town, which is of stone. Guii'ujuil couUiins, in })ro[)ortion to its dimension*, a.H many inhabiltuils as any city in ail America ; the coniinual resort of strangerii, dra>\ u thither by commerce, contributing JUAN AND ULLOA. 173 ; log will ;)ns\sts of ing in ai> , assisted istance of ndian fol- istcmnl to expanded, here their lis occupa* maintaining ifT ; for the \f necessary and making I heightens ime obUged towards the and coasted II the 18th, where they ing they got , landed at south lati- ; up, along old town to league; but being fond defended by the thiru be- arc all built »rc they were laiuing in ^h* w(X)d, except iwii, which is dinension*, the coniinual contributing >n very greatly to increase the number, •jionerally coniputcd at 20,000. The navigable part of the river of Guia- ])l;ui' in winter, twen- ty-eight and a half. The borders of this river, together with those of its creeks a»id canals, are decorated with country seats, and cottages of ])oor j)eople of all lusts, having here botli the convenience of fishing and agriculture; and the in- tennediate space filled with such a variety of thickets, that art would Hv.d it difficult to imitate the up{x>rtfd. The grwuiidi m iff ;;M.fl.,i 174 VOYAGE OF floor is wholly useless in the winter, when all the country ii* turned into mud. Such houses, however, as stand l)eyond the reach of inundations, have ground floors, furnished like the other apartments. All the inhabitants have their canoes for passing from one house to another ; and are so dexterous in the management of these skiffs, that a little girl ventures alone in a boat so small and slight, that another less skilful would overset in stepping into it. The increase of fish in this river is greatly hindered by the prodigious numbers of alligators ; an amphibious creature, found both in the rivers and the adjacent plains ; though it i» not often known to go far from the banks of the river. When tired with swimming, they leave the water to bask themselves in the sun, and then appear more like logs of rotton wood, thrown ashore by the current, than living creatures; but upon perceiving any vessel near them, they immediately throw them- selves into the water. Some arc so large, as to exceed five yards in length. During the time they lie basking on the shore, they keep their huge mouths open, till filled with fliei and other insects, when they suddenly shut their jaws, and swallow their prey. Whatever may have been written with regard to the fierceness and rapacity of this animal, our com- pany of artists found, from experience, that they avoid a man; and on the approach of any one, immediately plunge into the water. Its whole body is covered with scales, impenetrable to a musket-ball, unless it happens to hit him in the belly, near the fore legs, the only part vulnerable. The alligator is an oviparous creature. The female makei % large hole in the sand, near the brink of a river, and there deposits her eggs, which are neai-ly equal to those of an ostrich, and as white as those of a hen, but much more solid. She geilerally lays about a hundred, continuing in the same place till they are all deposited, which is a day or two. She then covers them with sand ; and the better to ('x>nceal them, rolh herself, not only over her precious depositum, but to a consi- derable distance. After this precaution, she returns to tlw water; till natural instinct inforujs her, that it is time to deli* JUAN AND ULLOA. 175 iintvy i* l)eyond lied like ed by the creature, iiough it i» er. When themselves »tton wood, ; but upon hrow them- exceed five iing on the ed with fliei r jaws, and vritten with il, our com- tvoid a mani inge into the lenetrable to belly, near Ter her young from their confinement, when she comes to the •pot, followed by the male, and tearing up the sand, begins breaking the eggs, but so carefully that scarce a single one is injured, and a whole swarm of little alligators are seen crawl- ing about. The female then takes them into the water : but the watchful galUnazos, a large bird, very common in these parts, makes use of this opportunity to deprive her of some ; and even the male alligator, who indeed comes for no other end, devours what he can, till the female has reached the water with the remainder; for all those which either fall from her back, or do not swim, she herself cats; so that out of luch a formidable brood, happily not more than four or five escape. When these creatures cannot find fish to appease their hun>> ger, they betake themselves to the meadows bordering on the banks of the river, and devour calves and colts ; and, in order to be more secure in seizing their prey, take the opportunity of the night, that they may surprise them in their sleep ; and it is observed, that those alUgators, which have once tasted flesh, become so fond of it as never to take up with fish, but in cases of necessity. Their voracity has often been felt by the boatmen, who, by inconsiderately sleeping with one of their legs or arms hanging over the side of the boat, these animals have seized, and drawn the whole body into tlie water. The inhabitants of those places where they abound, are very industrious in catching and destroying them. Their usual method is by a casonate, or piece of hard wood, shiryji-ned at both ends, and baited with the lungs of some animal. This casonate they fasten to a thong, the end of which is secured to the shore. The alligator, on seeing the lungs floating on the water, snaps at the bait, and thus both ptnnts of the wood [enter into his jaws, in such a manner, that he can neither shut nor open his mi -th. He is then dragged ashore, where the [Indians bait him like a bull, knowing that the greatest damage [he can do, is to tlniow down such as, for want of care or agi- lity, do . ot keep out of his reach. As scon as the French and Spanish artists arrived at Guia- |uil, the corre^idor dispatched a messenger to the magistrate I h m 11 - 176 VOYAGE OF of Guaranda, that he might order carriages to the port of Caracol, for conveying tliem and their baggage to the nioun. tains; but the passage being then impracticable, they were obHged to continue at Guiaquil till the summer, when, on re- ceiving advice that the mules provided by that magistrate wero on the road to Caracol, they immediately embarked, on the 3d of May, 1736, on board a large chata, and reached that place on the 11th. The tortures they endured on the river, from the mosquitoes, were beyond imagination. The most dismal night they spent in this passage, was Avhen they came to an anchor near a large, handsome house, but uninhabited, for they had no sooner seated themselves in it, than they were attacked on all sides with innumerable swarms of njosquitoes, «o that it was impossible for a pers(m susceptible of feellnecome a nest of mosquitoes of i kinds, so that it was impossible to determine which was the! JUAN AND ULLOA. 177 ic port of the nioun- they were hen, on rc- istrate were Led, on the cached that n the river, The most n they came Lininhahitcd, m they were ' mosquitoes, of feeling to as of ony use ^^ thoy hurnt, lOMkiv.p, them, uhitiidos. rn lo*)k "P«" »!iii(ls covered cd the ccndl- to the attacki look up their I In mosquitoes, linfonnin}* the had spent the I house they so | jaccount of it» the company I •al to think it I ^ for the Iwdy. is so deep and! fost up to their found it more „ in had been I itioned on the I squitoes of all I which was th« worst. Some, to avoid the torture of these insects, stripped themsehes and went into the river, ki^epinir only their heacis above water; but the face, being the only part exposed, was immediately covered with them, so tliat those wliohad recourse to this cxpe(hent, Avere soon forced to deliver up their whole body to these tornjcnling creatures. On the IGth, at noon, they j)asse(l ))y a place called Mo- marumi, or Mother of Stone, where there is an inconceivably beautiful cascade. The rock, from which the water precipi- tates itself, is nearly perpendicul.ar, and 50 fathoms in height ; and on both sides Iwrdered with lofty and spreading trees. The clearness of the fluid dazzles the sight, which is, at the same time, charmed >vith the lustre of the volume of water formed in its fall ; after which it continues its course in a bed along a small descent, and is crossed by a road. From thence they continued their journey, and after crossing the river twice on bridges, but with etpial danger as in fording it, they ar- rived, at two in the evening, at a place called Tarigagua, where they rested in a large structure of timber, covered with vijaua leaves, built for their reception. At Tarigagua the traveller often sees instances of the effects of two opjX)site temperatures, in two persons happening to meet, one of them confnig from (niiaquil, and the other from the mountains ; the latter Hndri the heat so great, that he is .scarce able to bear any clothes, while the former wraps himself up in all the garments he can procure. The (me is so dciight- ed with the warmth of the water of the river, tlia' hj f),ahes in it; the other thinks it so cold, that he avoids being spattered by it. Nor is the case very different, evcji in the smnc j>er- son, who, after a journey to the mountains, is returning to Guia{|uil ; or vice versa, provided the journey and return be made at the same season of the year. At a quarter past nine in the nic^rning, they began to ascend the mountain of San Ant(mio, the foot of which is at Tarigagua, and at one, reached a place called, by the Indians, Guamac, or Cross of Canes, where they hsdleil. The rug- gedness of the road from Tarigagua, leading up this moun- tain, is not easily described. It gave our artists more trouble Vol. I. Z m 178 VOYAGE OF and fatigue, besides all the dangers tliey were every moment exposed to, than all tiiey had experienced in their former joumies. In some parts the declivity is so great, that the niult's can scarce keep their footing; and in others the accli- vity is otiually difficult. In many places, the road is so nar- row, that the uuilcs have scarce room to set their feet; and in others a continued series of precipices. Besides, these roads, or rather paths, are full of holes, or camelones, near three quarters ot' a yard deep, in which the mules put tlieir fore and hind-feet; so that sometimes they draw their bellies and rider's legs along the ground. Indeed these lioles serve as steps, without which the preci[)ices would be in a great measure im- praclicable. Bui. should the creature happen to put his foot between two of these holes, or not place it right, the rider falls, and if on the side of the precipice, inevitably perishes. The manner of descending from these heights is not less dif- ficult and dangerous. The mules them.selves are sensible of the caution requisite in these descents ; for coming to the top of an eminence, they stop, and having placed their fore-feet close together, as in a posture of stopping themselves, they also put their hinder-feet together, but a little forwards, as if going to lie down. In this attitude, having, as it were, taken a survey of the road, they slide down with the swiftness of a meteor. All the rider has to do, is to keep himself fast in the saddle, without checkinji; his beast; for the least motion is suflicient to disorder the equilibrium of the mule, in which case, they both unavoid- ably perish. The address of this creature is here truly won- derfiil, for in this rapid motion, when they seem to have lost all government of themselves, they follow exactly the different windings of the road, as if they had before accurately recon- noitred, and previously settled in their minds, the route they were to follow, and taken every precaution for their safety amidst so many irregularities. But the longest practice of travelling these roads, cannot entirely free ihe mules from a kind of dread or horror, which aj^cai> wiien they arrive at the top of a steep decHvity : for tiaey stop without being checked by the rider ; and if he inad- JUAN AND ULLOA. 179 ' moment ir former that the the accli- is so nar- et; and in lesc roads, near three iv fore and and rider's e as steps, fieasure inu lut his foot :, the rider f perishes, not less dif- ! sensible of g to the top neir fore-feet iselves, they •wards, as if urvcy of the :or. All the die, without it to disorder oth unavoid- e truly won- to have lost the different irately recon. le route they their safety tertently endeavours to spur them on, thoy continue immove- able; nor will they stir from the place till tlsey Imvc put themselves in the above-mentioned posture. Now it is that they seem to be actuated by reason ; for they not only atten- tively view the road, but tremble nnd snort at the danjjer ; which, if the rider be not accustomed to these emotions, can- not fail of filling him with terrible ideas. The Indians go be- fore, and place themselves along the sides of the moinitain, holding by the roots of trees, to animate the beast with shouts, till they at once start down the declivity. They now began to descend with more ease towards the province of Chimbo, attended by the provincial alcade, and the most eminent persons of the town. After complimenting them in the most cordial manner on their arrival, they pro- ceeded together, and within a league of the town were met by the priest, a Dominican, accompaTiied by several of his order, and a number of the inhabitants, who also left the town on the same friendly occasion: and, to heighten the ceremony, had brought with them a troop of clialos, or Indian boys. In this manner the cavalcade entered the toAvn, on which, all the bells in the place were rung, and every house resounded with the noise of trumpets, tabors, and pipes. On expressing to the corrcgidor their surprize at this recep- tion, as a compliment far above their rank, he informed them, that it was not at all singular, being no no more than what was commonly practised, when persons of any appearance en- tered the town; and that there was no small emulation between the several towns in paying those congratulations. After they had passed the mountains beyond Pucara, the whole country, within the reach of the eye, during a passage of two leagues, was a level and open plain, having neither trees nor mountains; and being covered with fields of wheat, barley, maize, and other grain, naturally gave our artists great pleasure. The corregidor entertained them in his house at Guaranda till the fiJlst of the same month, when they continued their journey to Quito ; whither they arrived, without meeting with any remarkable occurrences, in a few days. At the extremity 180 VOYAGE OF of a spacious plain, called Turu liamha, stands the city of Quito; on which thev entered at five in the evening on the 29th. The president of the province, besides providing apart- ments for them in the palace of the audencia, entertained them the first tiiree days wilh great splendour, during which they were visited by the bishoji, the auditor, the canons, the regi- dores, and all other persons of any distinction, who seemed to vie with each other in their civilities. Our artists found, from accurate observations, that the city of Quito is situated in latitude deg. 13 min. 33 sec. south, and in 298 deg. 15 min. 45 sec. or ()1 deg. 44 min. 16 sec. west longitude, from the meridian of TeneriflTe. It stands in the inland })arts of the continent of South America, and on the eastern skirts of the West Cordillera of the Andes. Its distance from the coast of the South sea is about 35 leagues west. Contiguous to it, on the north-west, are the mountains of Pichincha, not less famous among strangers for their great height, than among the natives for the great riches they are imagined to contain. The city is built on the acclivity of that mountain, and surrounded by others of a middling height, among the breaches, or guayeos, as they arc called here, which form the eminences of Pichincha. Some of these breaches are of a considerable depth, and run quite through it, so tliat great part of the buildings stand upon arches.— This renders the streets irregular, and extremely uneven, some parts of the city being built on the ascents, descents, and summits of the breaches. The city, with regard to mag- nitude, may be compared to one of the second order in Eu- rope ; but the unevenness of its situation is a great dis-advan tagc to its appearance. The principal square in Quito has four sides, in one of which stands the cathedral, and in the opposite the episcopal palace; the third side is taken up by the town-house; and the fourth by the palace of the audience. It is very spacious, and has in the centre an elegant fountain. The principal streets are paved ; but those which are not, are almost impas- sible after rain, which is here very common. Beside the principal square, there are two others in Quito, and both very JUAN AND ULLOA. 181 ic city of ng on the ing apart- ined them hich they , theregi- scemed to lat the city sec. south, nin. 16 sec. It stands in ica, and on Andes. Its t 35 leagues le mountains r their great ;hes they are :Uvity of that lUng height, called here, me of these ^uite through »n arches.— Lely uneven, its, descents, igard to mag- order in Eu- ;at dis-advan- 38, in one of the episcopal >use; and the [ery spacious, :he principal lalmost impas- Beside the md both very spacious, together with several others that are smaller. In tlicsc the greatest part of the convents are situated, and thence make a very handsome appearance ; the fronts and portals of those edifices dedicated to religion, being adorned with all the embellishments of aiTliitecture, particularly the convent of the Franciscans, which being wholly of free-stone, must have cost an immense sum. The cathedral, besides the richness of its furniture, is splendidly adorned with tapestry hangings and other costly decorations. The cathedral chapter consists of the bishop, dean, and other dignitaries, who enjoy considerable revenues. This church was erected into a cathedral in 1545, and among other festivals celebrated in it with extraordinary magnificence, are those of Corpus Christi, and the Conception of our Lady ; at which all persons of eminence assist. But the singular pomp of the procession of the host in the former, and the dances of the Indians nuist not be omitted. A mont'i Ijcfore the celebration of the feasts, it is customary for the parish priests, throughout the province, to select a number of Indians, who are to be the dancers. These imme- diately begin to practise the dances they used before their conversion. Their music is the pipe and tabor; and the most extraordinary of their motions are a few awkwai'd capers, little suited to the European taste. Within a few days of the solem- nity, they dress themselves in a doublet, shirt, and woman^s petticoat, adorned with the utmost finery. Over their stock- ings they wear a kind of buskins, with a number of bells.— Their faces are covered with a sort of mask formed of various coloured ribbands. Dressed in this fantastical garb, they proudly call themselves angels, spend the day in roving about the streets, and dancing to gain the applause of the ignorant multitude. But what is most surprizing, without any pay or view of interest, they continue this exercise a whole fortnight before the gi'and festival, and a month after it, regardless of tlieir families, their dutier.. or themselves. Such are the arts of popery to gain converi s, b} amusing weak minds with un- meaning shows and ridiculous ceremonies. The Indian con- ^•^, ^>. w^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // ,v 4^ 4 1.0 I.I 1.25 ii ■^ 1^ 112.2 IS 14:0 1.8 U III 1.6 PhotDgrapmc Sdences Corporation \ .§\^ ^ N? :\ \ cS^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (716) •72-4503 '<^ 182 VOYAGE OF Terts to Christianity, in general, are indulged in all their original absurdities : if they are submissive to the priest, it ig enough. Soon after our artists arrived at Quito, they determined to continue the series of the triangles for measuring ah arch of the meridian to the south of that city : the company accord, ingly divided themselves into two bodies, consisting of French and Spaniards, and each retired to the part assigned them. Don George Juan and M. Godin, who headed ohe party, Went to the mountain of Pambamarca ; while M. Bouger, Dc la Condamine, and Don Ulloa, with their assistants, climbtJ tip to the highest summit of Pichincha. Both parties suffered extremely from the severity of the cold and the impetuosity of the winds, which, on those hv-^^wts, blew with incessant violence. Thus, in the torrid zone, nearly under the equinoctial, where it was natural to suppose they had most to fear from the heat, their greatest pain was occa. sioned by the intensity of the cold. The first scheme was to pitch a field tent for each company; but on Pichincha, the narrowness of the summit would not admi^ of this, and the party were obliged to be contented with a hut of the smallest dimensions, so that they could scarcely all creep into it. Their station was on one of the highest crags of a rocky mountain, 100 fathoms above the highest part of the desert of Pichincha. The ascent up this stup?n dous rock was so craggy, for a considerable way, as only to be climbed on foot ; and to perform it, cost them four hours continual labour and pain, from the violent efforts of the body, 8tnd the extreme subtilty of the air. The artists generally kept within their hut, which they were obliged to do, to screen themselves from the severity of the weather. They were involveJ, likewise, in such a thick fog, that an object at five or six paces was hardly discernible. When at any time the fog cleared up., the clouds below appear- ed like a vast sea, while they seemed insulated on its centre. In this case, they heard the burst of storms which were dis- char^ng themselves on Quito and the neighbouring country : JUAN AND ULLOA. 183 all their riest, it ig rmined to an arch of \x\y accotcV of French med them, otie party, iouger, Dc its, climhLl y of the cold ose h^';i"ts, zone, nearly mpiwse they ain was. occa- ich company; lit would not mtented with |ould scarcely the highest the highest this stupor. , as only to [m four hours of the body, which they |ie severity of such a thick discernible, felow appear- pn its centre. Ich were dis- xig country : they saw the lightning issue from the clouds, and heard the thunder rolling fai' beneath them ; and whilst the lo^^er piuts were involved in tempests of thunder and rain, they enj(»yed a d^'liohtful sere.'iity ; the wind was sbateii, the sky clear, and the enlivening rays of tlie sun moderated the seventy of the cold. But \vhen the clouds arose, their density rendered re- spiration difficult; the k^uow and hall fell incessantly; and the wind leturued wiih all its violence ; so that it was impossible to overcome the apja'ehenKion of being blown down the preci- pice, or of being buried iii the daily accumulation of ice and snow. Sometimes tliey were alarmed with the loud reports of enor- mous fragmen.ts ol" rocks tumbling I'rom their beds ; and this, in the night-time, was pecidiarly awful. The days too were often little better than the nights; and the intervals, when it was possible to pursue their business, were found insufficient to make any progress ; but they still persevered, in hopes that the weaiher might mend. Their servants and attending Indians were so benumbed with the cold, that it was with gicat difficulty they would get them to quit their tent, w here they kept a continual fire. All that our ai'tists could obtain from them, was to take their turns in the labour; and even then they set about it unwillingly, and performed it very slow ly. It may be easily conceived what this company suffered from the asperities of such a clinjate. Their feet were swelled and so tender, that they could not even endure the heat of a fire ; and walking was attended with extreme pain. Their hands were covered with chilblains ; their lips swelled anci chopped ; and almost every motion, in speaking or eating, drew blood. They were, indeed, little disposed to laugh ; but if at any time they did, the extension of the jawi occasioned such fis- sures as were painful for some days. Upwards of three weeks our artists spent on this rock; when, at last, despfuring of being able to finish their obser- vations of the angles, from the impossibility of seeing their signals from one summit to tlie other, they descended to a lower situation and a more favourable region. However, they 184 VOYAGE OF still retained their former habitation fo)' nearly three months longer ; when having con;plcted the observations which parti- cularly concerned Pichincha, they proceeded to others; but with little abatement of either inconvenience, cold, or fatigue; for the places where they made their ol);3ervations being neces- sariJy on the highest parts of the de.erts, the only respite they enjoyed, was in passing from one station to another. After they left Pichincha, each company made use of a field tent, which, though small, was preferable to a hut. At first tliey pitched their tents in sheltered situations ; but afterwards re- solving to make them answer tlie purpose of signals, to save trouble, they removed them to more exposed spotSj where the impetuosity of the wind sometimes l-lew them down. From Avhat has been observed, it will folU)\v, tliat to ibrm a right judgment of the happy tem]>erature of the air of Qui- to, experience must correct the errors M^hich mere speculali-./n would teach; as without that unerring guide, or the evidence of history, who would imagine, that in the centre of the tvmd zone, or rather under the equinoctial, the heat is not only very tolerable, but even the cold, in some })laces, insupport- ably severe ; and that others enjoy all the pleasures and ad- vantages of a constant spring, their fields being co>ered witii perpetual verdure, and enamelled with flowers of the brightest hues? The mildness of the climate, free from the extreme^* of heat and cold, and the constant equality of the nights and days, render a spot, which the ancients deemed uninhabitable, not only pleasant but fertile. Nature, indeed, has scattered her blessings round Quito with such a liberal hand, that this country surpasses those of the temperate zones, where the vi- cissitudes of summer and winter, and the transition from heat to cold, cause the extremes of both to be xnore sensibly felt. The circumstances which render this country so dehghtful, arise from an union of different qualities so well blended, that they could not be separated without a painful diasm. The principal circumstance is an elevated situation ; and thus, not tinly the reflection of the heat is diminished, but the winds are more subtle, and congelation more natural. Tlie fertility ot this country would appear to many incredible, did not tlif JUAN ANt) ULLOA. 1^ fee months ,'hich parti- )thers; but or fatigue; leing neces- rehpitc llioy her. After atielcl tent, U first they Pter-Aarcls re- :ialo, to save w])()ts» where 1 down, that to form lie mv of Qui- ve spccv\lntl'.)n r the eviclcnce c of the torrid It is not cuily pes, insupport- asures and ad- ^ covered witb )f the brightest n the extremes [the nights and uninhabitable, has scattered laiid, that this where the vi- [ition from heat sensibly feh. I so dehghtful, [l blendcid, thai chasm. The and thus, not jt the winds are The fertifity of | le, did not tl^^ ct)nsic(eratron of the equaUty and benignity of the climate en- force its probability. For both the degrees of cold and heiit are so happily determined, that the moisture continues, and the earth seldom fails of Ivnng cherished by the fertilizing beams of the 5iun some part of every day. Hence, the fruits iind beauties of the several seasons are seen here at one and the same time. But though this is generally seen, yet there is a settled time for the grand harvest. Still, howxiver, the most favourable seaf^on for sowing in one place is a month or two later or ear- lier thah another, thougli distant only two of three leagues. Thus we sometimes see sowing and reaping going on at once, oft different sides of the same hill, or even on the same side, accord- ing to elevation, or other natural determining circumstance^^. Nor is this any contradiction to what has been before advanced, Relative to this fruitful and happy climate. The generality of the villages beins built on the sides of the mountains, hav* little regularity. Except the church and parsonage, they ar* generally Constructed of mud. While the Spanish artists were employed in their mensur- ations in the province of Quito, they were summoned by the viceroy of Peru to repair immediately to Lima, where theif Assistance was thought necessary to frustrate the designs of the English ; commodore Anson''s squadron being then ekpected in the South seas. They rerdily obeyed the viceroy's order^ and having furnished themselves with necei^saries at Quito, they left that city on the 30th of October, determining td proceed by the way of Guaranda and Guiaquil, as being thi6 best road. They reached Salto on the 7th of Noveml>er, and ift two days more arrived at Tumbez, through a country entirdiy Waste ; part of it being overflowed by the tidcn^, and the other part dead sands, which reflect the rays of the sun so intensely^ as to render it necessary to perform this journey genei'atty- iti- the night. It would be uninteresting to enumemtc all the placet they halted at ; suffice it to say, that, after a long jouir- ney of J864 leagues, they at last entK>red the eity ^f Littia. Vol. I. 3 A I 186 VOYAGE OP TJiis city stands in the spacious and delightful valley of Rimac, an Indian word, which the Spaniards have corruptly changed into Lima. The original is derived from the name of an idol, to which the native Indians used to offer sacrifice ; and, as it was supposed to return answers to the prayers ad- dressed to it, they called it, by Avay of eminence, Kimac, or he who speaks. Lima, according to the most accurate obser- vations, stands in IS deg. 2 min. 3 sec. south latitude, and 60 deg. 32 min. 58 sec. west longitude from the meridian oi' Teneriffe. Its situation is one of the most advantageous that can be conceived, lying in a spacious valley, and at a proper distance, towards the north, bounded by the Cordillera des Andes, from whence some hills project into the valley. The river of the same name washes the walls, and when not in- creased by the torrents from the mountains, is easily fbrdable. However, it has an elegant stone bridge over it, liaving at one extremity a gate of the finest arcliitecture. This gate conducts to the grand square, which is very large and superb. The form of tiie city is triangular, the base, or longest side, extending along the banks of the river. Its length is two- thirds of a league, and its greatest breadth two-fifths. It is surrounded by a brick-wall, which answers its original inten- tion, but possesses no regularity. The streets ai'e paved, and lined by canals, which, being arched over, contribute to its cleanliness, without any inconvenience. The houses for the most part are low, but commodious, and make a good appear- ance. They are all constructed in s-ucli a manner, and of such materials, as may best enable them to support the shocks of the earthquakes to which this city is so much devoted.— These are the most dreadful disasters which attend Lima and the neighbouring country. So sudden and violent are these concussions of nature, that the interval between them is never of sufficient len^^th to obliterate the remembrance of their tre« mendous consequences. The earthquakes, however, though sudden, have their presages; one of wliich is a rumbling noise in the bowels of the eartli, about a minute before the shock is felt, which seems to JUAN AND ULLOA. 187 il valley of e corruptly m the name er sacrifice ; prayers ad- , Rimac, or ;urate obser- atitude, and I meridian of itageoias that [ at a proper ordillcra des valley. The when not in- isily fordable. it, having at . This gate e and superb, r longest side, ;ngtli is two- -fifths. It is iriginal inten- Ire paved, and itribute to its lOUses for the good appear- mner, and of jrt the shocks .'h devoted.— ind Lima and (lent are these them is never (e of their tre- ,, have their ; bowels of the vhich seems to pervade all the adjacent subterraneous parts. This is followed bv the dismal howhngs of dogs, '. liich seem to have the first ptiception of the impending danger. On these alarri,^, the terrified inliabitants fly from their houses into the streets with such precipitation, that if the calamity happens in the night, they appear quite naked. Nor docs their terror end with the first shock, none venturing to return to their houses, even if they escape tlie first attack, lest a repetition should again in- volve them in greater calamity. One of the most dreadful concussions of nature, felt by this unfortunate city, happened on the 20th of October, 1687. Another still more dreadful in its ccmsequcnces, overtook it on the 28th of October, 1746, at half-past ten at night. In little more than three minutes, the greatest part of the build- ings of every description was destroyed,^ burying under the ruins all those who had not been able to escape into the streets and squares ; the only places of safety in these terrible con- vulsions. The fort of Callao, at the very same hour, sunk into similar ruins ; but what it suffered from the earthquake in its buildings was trivial, compared to the catastrophe which ensued. The sea, receding to a considerable distance, re- turned in moinitainous waves, foaming with the violence of the agitation, and instantly cimverted Callao into a sea ; no- thing remaining, except a piece of the wall of the fort of Santa Cruz, as a memorial of this terrible devastation. At ihat moment 23 ships, of different descriptions, were riding in the harbour; nineteen of which were absolutely sunk, and the other four, among which was the St. Fermin frigate, were carried, by the irresistible force of the waves, a considerable way up the country. This terrible inundation extended to other ports along the coast, which underwent the same fate as Lima. The number of inhabitants who perished in that city amount, ed to 1,300, besides the maimed and wounded. At Callao, whose population was estimated at 4,000, only 200 escaped ; and twenty-two of these by means of the wall already mentioned. From these horrible visitations, added to its never raining, the reader would naturally be led to think, that the country must of necessity be totally barren ; the contrary, however, is A^ I ia» VOYAGE OF I i I «■ ! mm the fact ; for Lima onjoys an enviable fertiKty ; and art and nature unite to supply that moisture which the clouds seem to withhold. During our artists stay at Lima, they laboured incessantly to put the country into the best jjosture of defence, in case the English should invade it. At the same time four men of war was sent to cruize off the coast of Chili, and to visit the island of Juan Fernandez, in order to attack tlie English squadron, on its lirst appearance in the South seas ; but, hap- pily, the Spaniards left the island only a few days before a)m- modorc Anson's arrival, whicl; fortunate incident prevented his falling into their hands; as his men were too much afHictea with tlie scurvy, to be able to make any resistance in case of an attack. The Spaniards returned to Callao, without re- ceiving the least information of any foreign ships having been seen in those seas ; and immediately resumed their uniinishcd mensuration of an arch of the meridian. Before they had comjjleted tlieir work, an express arrived at Quito, with the particulars vi' the success of the English on these coasts, and that they had sacked tho town of Paita. Our artists therefore immediately returned to Lima, where they received the com- mand of two frigates, fitted out to cruize on the coast of Chili. Chili is celebrated for its fertility. Its plains, eminences, i^aJlies, in short the whole kingdom, is an object of admira- tion ; for sucli is the exuberant fruitfulness of the soil, that every particle of it seems to teem with vegetable life. In con- seqvience of this, agriculture is one of the most beneficial em. ployments. This kingdom abounds hkewise in mines of all kinds, particularly in those of gold and copper. Soon after our artists arrived in the bay of Conception, they joined die Esperanza, a Spanish man of war, commanded by Don, Pedro Mendinuetta, who had found means to double cape Horn and reach tliis port. Being quickly joined by ad- miral Pizarro, who took upon him the command of the squa- dron, they sailed for Valparaiso, where they found the Louis Erasnie, Notre Dame de la Deliverance, and the Lys, French vessels, which having been freighted a3 register shij3, had touched tliere to vend their cargoes. The whole fleet now JUAN AND UX.LOA. m id art and Is seem to incessantly ce, in case Dur men of to visit the lie English ; but, hap- before com- t prevented luch afflictCQ ce in cose of without re- having been ir untinishcd 3ve they had liU), with the ie coasts, and ;ists therefore ived the corn- coast of Chili. IS, eminences, ;t of admira- ithe soil, that life. In con- jbeneficial em- mineB of all mailed for Juan Fernandez, and thence to Callao, where they arrived on the 24th of June. Our artists once more returned to Quito where they finished their measurements, and then proceeded to Lima, in order to obtain a passage for Spain. At Callao, however, they fell in with the Deliverance and Lys, prepai-ing to sail for Europe. This was an opportunity not to be omitted ; and accortlingly Don George Juan embarked in the latter, and Don Antonio de Ulloa in the latter. They left Callao on the 22d of November, and were soon joined by the Louis Erasme and the Marquis d'Antin ; but the Lys springing u leak was obliged to return. The rest of the squadron, however, had the good fortune to double cape Horn without meeting with the violent storms so frequently fatal to mariners in those latitudes. Having taken in supplies and repaired their shattered ships in the road of Fernando de Narona, on the coast of Brazil, on the 10th of June, 1744, they agmn set sail, and flattered themselves that the danger of the voyage was now at an end. But on the 21st of July, they discovered two sail within three leagues of them, and soon approaching within cannon-shot, the strangers hoisted EngUsh colours and formed their line, while the French, tliough little in a condition for fighting, likewise prepared for action. The enemy, who afterwards proved to be privateers, were considerably superior in force. They were named the Prince Frederic, captain Talbot ; and the Duke, captain Morecock, After a short contest, the Marquis d'Antin struck, after losing her captain, and receiving several shots between wind and water. The captain of the Deliverance, the headmost ship, seeing one of his ccmsorts taken, prudently crowded sail and endeavoured to escape, while the Louis Erasme did the same. However the latter wa^ soon obliged to yield ; and while the privateers were occupied with each a prize^ the Deliverance had the good fortune to escape. The captain of the Deliverance began to felicitate himself I on bis fortune; md oonsulting with his o£Scers what course m^ I (j 1 190 VOYAGE OP was nioflt aclviscable to steer, one of them, acquainted wltli Louisbourg, rcconnnended that jxirt, which being the sliortest navigation, the captain yielded to his suggestions, after tlio plan had been approved of botli by the officers and the pas- sengers. On the IStli of August, they saw a brigantine plying in for Louisbourg, on which the Deliverance hoisted French colours, which was answered by the other firing two or three of her guns. This, however, occasioned no uneasiness; and in a short time, two men of war coming out of the harboiu', still they supposed those might belong to a squadron of their country's ships, guarding that important place ; and that the brigantine might be some j)rivateer, with a design on the fish- cry. And here the reader's imagination will picture the com- placency and joy which filled every heart, when they fancied themselves a])proaching the end of all their disasters ; and the keen disappointment they felt, when their visionary schemes of delight ended in the real miseries of captivity — for the place was then in the hands of the English ; and they found it im. possible to fight or fly. The brigantine, which carried 50 guns, took possession of the Deliverance, and carried a very rich prize into port, while the two men of war, which were the Sunderland and the Chester, were ready to have yielded any requisite assistance. Our author informs us, that all his secret papers were form- ed into a packet, and that he had given orders, that in case he should suddenly fall in any action, to have them throAvn into the sea. When therefore it was found impracticable to escape, lie threw the packet, loaded with bullets, into the sea himself; but all the papers relative to the mensuration of the degrees of the meridian, together with the physical and astronomical observations, he saved ; knowing that their con- tents were of universal concern, and that no national injury could be sustained from their inspection. But fearing lest they should be abused or confounded with others of less im- 1 portance, he thought proper to acquaint the English captains on what service he had been employed, and recommended his manuscripts to their care. JUAN AND l^LLOA. 191 inted w'ltli he shortest I, after the i\d the pas- ilying in for nch colours, three of her s; and in a iarbo\ir, still ron of their and that tlie n on the tisli- ture the com- I they funcied ^ters; and the onary schemes —for the place iy found it m- ich carried 50 carried a very tir, which were o have yielded Don Ulloa being sent to England, was conliiied {it T'are- ham, a pleasant village at the lK)ttoin of Portsniouth harbour, * And here,' says he, * I must not omit the courtoy and ge- nerosity of captain Brett of the Sunderland, to all the prisoner* of any rank, whom he not only admitted to his own table, but prevailed on the other oIKcers to follow his good example; and who seemed to vie in civility towards us, and humanity towards the common nun, sparing for nothing to alleviate our misfortunes."* Our author was committed to the care of Mr, Bnwkes, commissary for French prisoners, and paints his gratitiule to him and to Mr. Hickman who actetl in the »ame capacity for the Spaniards, in the most glowing colours. By the assistance of these gentlemen he was enabled to present a petition to the duke of Bedford, then first lord of the admiralty, to obtain his papers ; and the answer returned was honourable to Eng- lishmen — thev gave Ulloa to understand, that thev were not at war with the arts and sciences, or thoir professors; that the British cultivated them, and that it was the glory of its minis- ters and great men to encourage and protect them. Soon alter our author obtained permission to repair to London, that he might renew his solicitations with greater ease and effect. Here he met with the most distinguished attention from the great and the learned; and acknowledges his sense of the kindnesses he received in a manner that shews he deserved them. His papers having been examined by Mr. Folkes, president of the Royal Society, who made a very favcnuable report, they were immediately deliveretl up to him ; and as a more illustrious testimony of esteem, lie was admitted hito the Royal Society, as a reward for what he had done in the ser- [vice of mankind, by contributing to tiie improvement of iM^ience. Don Ulloa, in summing up the favours received, gives this Ibrilliant testimony to the national credit : ' Actions like these,* Uaya he, ' convinced me of tlie sincerity of the English, their enevolence, and disinterested complaisance. I observed the kempers, customs, government, and police of this praise-wor- 192 VOYAGE OF JUAN AND ULLOA. thy nation, which, in its oecononiical conduct, and social vir. tues, may serve as a pattern to the rest of the world/ Being next presented with his Hberty, which had been granted him on his first srilicitation, our author cmbarivcd it Falmouth in the packet boat, and reached IVIadrid on the Sethof July, 1746. Soon after his arrival, his sovereign ordered his papers to be published under his own patronage : and, from the authen< tic memoirs with which he favoured the world, the preceding pages have been compiled. We wish it always fell to our let to record labours so meritorious, and to select from material so interesting and correct. W^ i. id social vir. •Id; h had been embarked at adrid on the his papers to 11 the authen- :be preceding fell to our let Tom material »• THE VOYAGES AND ADVENTURES OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 'pHIS celebrated English navio-ator, and brave naval officer, was the son of Edmund Drah' a clergyman, andwasl)om at a village near Tavistock in Devonshire, in the year 1545. He was the eldest son of twelve brethren, and the father being distressed by so large a family, captain Hawkins, his mother's relation (afterwards the famous admiral Sir John Hawkins) kindly took him under his patronage, and gave him an edu- cation suitable to the sea service. Through the interest of his patron, at the age of eighteen, he was made purser of a ship trading to the bay of Biscay. At twenty, he made a voyage to Guinea ; at the age of twenty-two, he was appointed cap- tain of the Judith ; and, in that capacity, he was in the har- bour of St. Juan de Ulloa, in the gulf of Mexico ; where he behaved very gallantly in the glorious action under Sir John Hawkins ; and returned to England with a rising reputation, but totally destitute, having lost the little property he had acquired in his former station, by this unfortunate expedition, in consequence of the treachery of the Spaniards. Soon after this, he conceived a design of making reprisals on the king of Spain ; which, according to some, was put into his head by the chaplain of the ship ; and, indeed, the case was clear in sea-divinity, says Dr. Campbell, * that the sub- [ jects of the king of Spain had undone Mr. Drake, and there- i fore he was at liberty to take the best satisfaction he could on ^iketa in return.' This doctrine, however roughly preached. Vol. I.— (9) 2 B 194 VOYAGES AND ADVENTURES ^^^H^^l 1 ■^^^^^uJI^B 1 'Sl,?|l ■ Was very taking in England; and, therefore, no sooner did he publish his design, than he had numbers of volunteers ready to accompany him, though not actuated by the same motives, and without any such pretence to colour their pro- ceedings as he had. In 1570, he made his first voyage with two ships, the Dragon and the Swan; and the next year, in the Swan alone: from which last expedition he returned safe, if not rich. Though we have no particular account of these two voyages, or what Drake performed in them, yet nothing is clearer tlian . that captain Drake had two points in view. The one was, to inform himself perfectly of tlie situation and strength of some places of the Spanish West Indies ; the other, to convince his countrymen, that, notwithstanding what had happened to captain Hawkins, in his last voyage, it was a thing very prac. ticable to sail into these parts, and return in safety. For it is to be observed, that Hawkins and Drake separated in the West Indies; and that the? former finding it impossible to bring all the crew home to England, had set part of them, with their own consent, ashore in the bay of Mexico; and, indeed, few of these finding then* way home, the terror of Buch a captivity as they were known to endure had disheart- ened our seamen. But captain Drake, in these two voyages, having very wisely avoided coming to blows with the Spa- niords, and bringing home sufficient returns to satisfy hit owners, dissipated these apprcliensions, and established his own character : so that, at his return from his second voyage, he found it no difficult matter to raise such a force as might enable him to perform what he had long meditated in his own mind, which otherwise he would never have been able to effect. Without loss of time, therefore, he laid the plan of a more important design ; which he put in execution on the 25t}i of | March, 1572 : for, on that day, he sailed from Plymoutli, in a ship called the Pascha, burden 70 tons ; and his brother, John Drake, in the Swan, of 25 tons ; their whole strength j consisting of only 73 men and boys. But they were all pro- vided with ammunition and provisions, and in case of an acct- 1 OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 195 sooner did volunteers y the same r their pro- ships, the Swan alone; if not rich, two voyages, , clearer than ; one was, to [igth of some ) convince his happened to ,ng very prac ;ty. For it is >arated in the impossihle to part of them, Mexico; and, the terror of had disheart- two voyages, [with the Spa- to satisfy his istabhshed his second voyage, force as might Lted in his own been able to dent happening to either of the ships, or an occasion presenting of approaching nearer to any place, than the ships could iie^ tliey had three pinnaces on board, framed and fitted in such a dextrous manner, that they could easily be put together, hf the ships'* carpenters, when wanted. The wind continuing favourable, they entered, June th« 29th, between Guadeloupe and Dominica, and on the 6th of July saw the high-land of Santa Martha; then continuing their course, after having been becalmed for some time, they arrived at port Plieasant, so named by Drake in a former voy- age, to the east of Nombre de Dios. Here he proposed to build his pinnaces, and was going ashore-with a few men un- armed, but, discovering a smoke at a distance, ordered th« other boat to follow him with a greater force. Then marehing towards the fire, which was in the top of a high tree, he found a plate of lead nsuled to another high tree, with an inscription engraved upon it by one Garret, an Englishman, who had left that place but five days before, and had taken this method of informing him that the Spaniards had been advertised of his intention to anchor at that place, and that it therefore would be prudent to make a very short stay there. But Drake knowing how convenient this place was for his designs, and considering that the liazai'd and waste of time which could not be avoitled in seeking another station, wa* equivalent to any other danger which was to be apprehended by the Spaniards, determined to follow his first resolution; only, for hjs greater security, he ordered a kind of palisade, or fortification, to be made, by felling large trees, and laying the trunks and branches one upon another by tho side of th« river. On July 20, having built their pinnaces, and being joined by one captain Rawse, who happened to touch at the same place with a bark of 50 men, they set sail towards Nombre de Deis ; and, taking two frigates at the island of Pines, were informed, by the negroes which they fountt in them, that the inhabitants of that place were in expectation of some soldiers^ which the governor of Panama had promised, to defend them from the Syniurops, or fugitive negroes, who, having escaped 19$ VOYAGES AND ADVENTURES ;.r 't from the tyranny of their masters in great numbers, had set. tied themselves under two kings, or leaders, on eaeh side of the way between Nombre de Dios and Panama, and not only asserted their natural right to liberty and independence, but endeavoured to revenge the cruelties they had suffered, and had lately put the inhabitants of Nombre de Dios into the ut. most consternation. These negroes the captain set on shore on the main land, so that they might, by joining the Syme. rons, recover their liberty, or at least might not have it in their power to give the people of Nombre de Dios any speedy information of his intention to invade them. Then selecting fifty-three men from his own company, and twenty from the crew of his new associate captain Rause, he embarked with them in his pinnaces, and set sail for Nombrd de Dios. On July the ^th, at night, he approached the town undis. covered, and dropped his anchors under the shore, intending, after his men were refreshed, to begin the attack ; but finding that they were terrifying each other with formidable accounts of the strength of the place, and the multitude of the inhabi- tants, he determined to hinder the panic from spreading far- ther, by leading them immediately to action ; and therefore ordering them to their oars, he landed without any opposition, there being only one gunner upon the bay, though it was secured with six brass cannons of the largest size ready mounted. But the gunner, while they were throwing the cannons from their carriages alarmed the town, as they soon discovered, by the bell, the drums, and the noise of the people. Drake leaving twelve men to guard the pinnaces, marched round the town with no great opposition, the men being more hurt by treading on the weapons left on the ground by the flying enemy, than by the resistance which they encountered. At length having taken some of the Spaniards, Drake com- manded them to shew him the governor''s house, where the mules that bring the silver from Panama were unloaded; there they found the door open, and entering the room where the Mlver wa9 reported, found it heaped up in bars in such quaii* I ers, had set. eaeh side of ind not only indence, but uifered, and into the ut. set on shore the Syme- )t have it in s any speedy smpaiiy, and in Rause, he for Nombrd re 3 town undis. intending, but finding table accounts of the inhabi- ipreading far- and therefore ny opposition, hough it was St size ready throwing the I as they soon noise of the aces, marched in being more ground by the f encountered. J, Drake com- se, where the iloaded; there om where the in such quan* I TKelown of Nomfcre Je Dios taken i»v Sir Fr/uiria Drake. FnbhJthed by Madcmxie K Dent . OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 197 tities as almost exceed belief, the pile being, they conjectured, 70 feet in length, 10 in breadth, and 12 in height, each bar weighing between 30 and 45 pounds. It is easy to imagine that, at the sight of this treasure, no- thing was thought on by the English, but by what meanf they might best convey it to their boats ; and doubtless it was not easy for Drake, who, considering their distance from the shore, and the numbers of their enemies, was afraid of being intercepted in his retreat, to hinder his men from encumbering tliemselves with so much silver as might have retarded their march, and obstructed the use of their weapons ; however, by promising to lead them to the king's treasure-house, where there was g Ad and jewels to a far greater value, and where the treasure was not only more portable, but nearer the coast, he persuaded them to follow him, and rejoin the main body of his men then drawn up under the command of his brother in the market-place. Here he found his little troop much discouraged by th« imagination, that if they staid any longer, the enemy would gain possession of their pinnaces, and that they should then, without any means of safety, be left to stand alone against the whole power of that country. Drake, not indeed easily terii* rifled, but sufficiently cautious, sent to the coast, to inquire the truth, and see if the same terror had taken possession of the men whom he had left to guard his boats ; but, finding no foundation for these dreadful apprehensions, he persisted in his first design, and led the troop forward to the treasure- house. In their way there fell a violent shower of rain, which wet some of their bow-strings, and extinguished many of their matches ; a misfortune wliich might soon have been repaired, and which perhaps the enemy might suffer in common with them, but which however on this occasion very much embar^ rassed them, as the delay produced by it repressed that ardour which sometimes is only to be kept up by continual action, and gave time to the timorous and slothful to spread their insinua- tions, and propagate their cowardice. Some, whose fear was their predominate passion, were continually magnifying the numbers and courage of their enemies, and represented whole 198 VOYAGES AND ADVENTURES nations as ready to rush upon them; others, whose avarice mingled with their concern for their own safety, were more «olicitous to prei;crve what they had already gained, than to acquire more ; and others, hrave in themselves, and resolute, be£!;an to doubt of success in an undertaking in which they were associated Avith such cowardly companions. So that scarcely any man appeared to proceed in their enterprise with that spirit and alacrity which could give Drake a prospect of •uccess. This he perceived, and with some emotion told them, that if, after having had the chief treasure of the world within their reach, tliey should go home and languish in poverty, they could blame nothing but their own cowardice ; that he lia(' performed his part, and was still desirous to lead them on to riches and to honour. Finding that either shame or conviction made them willing to follow him, he ordered the treasure-house to be forced, and commanding his brother, and Oxenham of Ply- mouth, a man knoAm afterwards for his bold adventures in the same parts, to take charge of the treasure, he commanded the other body to follow him to the market-place, that he might be ready to oppose any scattered troops of the Spaniards, and hinder them from uniting into one botly. But as he stepped forward, his strength failed him on a Sudden, and he fell down speechless. Then it was that his Companions perceived a wound in his leg, which he had re-, eeivcd in the first encounter, but hitherto concealed, lest hii men, easily discouraged, should make their concern for his life a pretence for returning to their boats. Such had been the loss of blood, as was discovered upon nearer observation, that it had filled the prints of his footsteps, and it appeared scarce credible that after such an effusion of blood, hfe should remain. The bravest were now willing to retire : neither the desire of honour nor of riches was thought enough to prevail in any min over his regard for his leader. Drake, whom cordials had now restored to his speech, was the only man who could not be prevailed on to leave the enterprize unfinished. It wai se avarice ivere more i, than to d resolute, which they So that rprize with prospect of tnude them -house to be iham of Ply- idventures in |e commanded .lace, that he he Spaniards, led him on a was that his :h he had re- ;aled, lest hii incern for his ich had heen jr observation, id it appeared ►f blood. He OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKR 199 to no purpose that they advised Iiim to submit to go on board to have his wound dressed, and promised to return with him, and complete their design ; he well knew how impraclitable ifi was to regain the opportunity when it was once lost, and could easily foresee that a respite, of but a few hours, would enable the Spaniards to recover from their consternation, to assemble their forces, refit their batteries, and remove their treasure. What he had undergone so much danger to obtain was now in his hands; and the thought of leaving it untouched was too mortifying to be patiently borne. However, as there was little time for consultation, and th« same danger attended their stay in that perplexity and confu- Bion, as their return, they bound up his wound with his scarf, and partly by force, partly by intreaty, carried him to th« boats, in which they all embarked by break of day. Then taking with them, out of the harbour, a ship loaded with wines, they went to the Bastimentes, an island about a league from the town, where they staid two days, to repose the wounded men, and to regale then^ selves with the fruits which grew in great plenty in the gardens of that island. During their stay here, there came over from the main land a Spanish gentleman, sent by the governor, with Instructions to enquire whether the captain was that Drake who had be.?n before on their coast ; whether the arrows with which many of their men were wounded were not poisoned, and whether they wanted provisions or other necessaries. The messenger likewise extoUed tlieir courage with the highest encomiums, and expressed his admiration of their daring undertaking. Drake, though he knew the civilities of an enemy are always to be suspected, and that the messenger, amidst all his profes- sions of regard, was no other than a spy, yet knowing that he had nothing to apprehend, treated him with the highest honours that his condition would admit of. In answer to bin inquiries, he assured him that he was the same Drake with whose character they were before acquainted, that he was a rigid observer of the laws of war, and never permitted his ar- lows to be poisoned ; he then dismissed him with considerable presents, and told him that, though he had unfortunately 200 VOYAGES AND ADVENTURES failed in this attempt, he would never desist from his design, till he had shared with Spain the treasures of America. They then resolved to return to the isle of Pines, where they had left their ships, and consult about the measures they were now to take, and having arrived, August 1, at their former station, they dismissed captain Rause, who judging it unsafe to stay any longer on the coast, desired to be no longer engaged in their designs. But Drake, not to be discouraged from his purpose by a •ingle disappointment, after having enquired of a negro, whom he took on board at Nombre de Dios, the most wealthy settlements, and weakest parts of the coast, resolved to attack Carthagena ; and setting sail without loss of time, came to anchor, August 1.3, between Charesha and St. Barnard's, two islands at a little distance from the harbour of Carthagena; then, passing with his boats round the island, he entered the harbour, and in the mouth of it found a frigate with only an old man in it, who voluntarily informed them, that about an hour before a pinnace had passed by with sails and oars, and all the appearance of expedition and importance ; that, as she passed, the crew on board her bid them take care of them- selves : and that, as soon as she touched the shore, they heard the noise of cannon fired as a warning, and saw the shipping in the port drawn up under the guns of the castle. The captain, who had himself heard the discharge of the artillery, was soon convinced that he was discovered, and that therefore nothing could be attempted with any probability of success. He therefore contented himself with taking a ship of Seville, of 240 tons, which the relater of this voyage men- tions as a very large ship, and two small frigates, in which he found letters of advice from Nombre de Dios, intended to alarm that part of the coast. Drake now finding his pinnaces of great use, and not having I a sufficient number of sailors for all his vessek, was desirom j of destroying one of his ships, that his pinnaces might be bet* ter manned : this, necessary as it was, could not easily b< j done without disgusting his company, who having made seve- ral prosperous voyages in that vessel, would be tinwilling to OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 201 his design, rica. ines, where jasures they 1, at their io judging it be no longer purpose by a of a negro, most wealthy Ived to attack •line, came to Barnard's, tvo r Cartbagena: be entered the e with only an that about an and oars, and ;; that, as she J care of them- are, tbey heard ivi the shipping Itle. [ischarge of tli« iscovered, and' any probability h taking a ship lis voyage men- gates, in which fos, intended to I have it destroyed. Drake well knew that nothing but tlie love of their leaders could animate his followers to encounter such hardships as he was al}out to expose them to, and tlierefore rather chose to bring his designs to pass by artifice than authority. He sent for the carpenter of tlie Swan, took him into his cabin, and, having first engaged him to secrecy, ordered him in the middle of the night to go down into the well of the ship, and bore three holes through the l)ottom, laying something against them that might hinder the bubbUng of the water from being heard. To this the carpenter, after some exp)stulation, consented, and the next night performed his pronfiise. In the morning, August 15, Drake going out with his pinnace a fishing, rowed up to the Swan, and having invited his brother to partake of his diversions, inquired, with a neg- ligent air, why their bark was so deep in the water ; upon which the steward going down, returned immediately with an account that the ship was leaky, and in danger of sinking in a Uttle time. They had recourse immediately to the pump : but, having laboured till three in the afternn, and gained very little upon the water, they willingly, according to Drake's advice, set the vessel on fire, and went on board the pinnaces. Finding it now necessary to lie concealed for some time, till the Spaniards should forget their danger, and remit their vigilance, they set sail for the sound of Darien ; and without approaching the coast, that their course might not be observed, they arrived there in six days. This being a convenient place for their reception, both on account of privacy, as it was out of the road of all trade, and as it was well supplied with wood, water, wild fowl, hogs, deer, and all kinds of provisions, he staid here fifteen days to clean his vessels, and refresh his j men, who worked interchangeably, on one day the one half [tond on the next the other. On the 5th of September, Drake left his brother with the [ship at Darien, and set put with two pinnaces towards the IRio Grande, which it reached in three days, and on the ninth Iwere discovered by a Spaniard from the bank, who beUeving Ithem to be.}^^ otHiatrymeii} made a signal to them tQ gome on Vql. I. ^ ' g C SOS VOYAGES AND ADVENTURES shore, with which they very readily complied ; but he toon finding his mistake, abandoned his plantation, where fhey found great plenty of provisions, with which having laden their vessels, they departed. So great was the quantity of provisions which they amassed here and in other places, that in different parts of the coast they built four magazines or Rtore-house'4, which they filled with necessaries for the prose, sccution of their voyage. These they placed at such a distance from each other, that the enemy, if he should surprize one, might yet not discover the rest. In the mean time, his brother captain John Drake went, according to the instructions that had been left him, in search of the Synicrons, or fugitive negroes, from wht ^e assistance alone they had now any prospect of a successful voyage : and touching upon the main land, by means of the negroe whom they had taken from Nombre de Dios, engaged two of them to come on board his pinnace, leaving two of their own men as hostages for their returning. These men, having assured Drake of the affection of their nation, appointed an interview between liim and their leaders. So leaving port Plenty, in the isle of PineSj so named by the English from the great stores of provisions which they had amassed at that place, thej came, by the direction of the Symerons, into a seti-et I among beautiful islands covered with trees, which concealed their ship from observation, and where the channel was s^ | narrow and rocky, that it was impossible to enter it by night j i so that there was no danger of a sudden attack. Here Drake left part of his company till the rains were past, I end on the 16th of October, sailed to Carths^ena with three | pinnaces ; but, finding the country advertized of his attempts, and in arms to oppose him, he determined to return to his I depot, after having taken several valuable prizes. When they arrived at port Diego, so named from the negro I who had procured thein their intercourse with the Symerons, j they found captain John Drake and one of his company dead,: being killed in attempting, almost unarmed, to board a frigatt well provided with all things necessary for its defence. Thtj captain was unwilUng to attack it, and represented to theai OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 808 the madness of their proposal ; but, being overborne by their clamours and importunities, to avoid the imputation of cowar- dice, complied to his destruction. So dangerous is it for th« chief commander to be absent. Nor was this their only mis- fortune ; for in a very short time many of them were attacked by the calenture, a malignant fever, very frequent in the hot climates, which earned away, among several others, Joseph Drake, another brotlier of the commander. While Drake was employed in taking care of the sick men, the Symerons, who ranged the country for intelligence, brought him an account, that the Spanish fleet was arrived at Nombrc de Dios, the truth of which was confirmed by a pinnace, which he sent out to make observations. This, therefore, was the time for their journey, when the treasures of the American mines were to be transported from Panama, over land to Nombre de Dios. He therefore by the direction of the Syme- rons, furnished himself with all things necessai'y, and on the 3d of February set out from port Diego. Having lost already twenty-eight of his company, and being under the necessity of leaving some to guard his ships, he took with him only 18 English, and 30 Symerons, who not only served as guides to shew the way, but as purveyors to procure provisions. Every day, by sun-rising, they began to march ; and, having travelled till ten, rested near some river till twelve, then travelling again till four, they reposed all night in houses, which the Symerons had either left standing in their former marches, or very readily erected for them, by setting up three or four posts in the ground, and laying poles from one to another in form of a roof, which they thatched with palmetto boughs and plantane leaves. In the vallies, where they were sheltered from the winds, they left three or four feet below open ; but on the hills, where they were more exposed to the chill blasts of the night, they thatched them close to the ground, leaving only a door for entrance, and a vent in the middle of the room for the smoke of three fires, which they made in every house. On February 11, they arrived at the top of a very high [bill, on the summit of which gi-ew a tree of wonderful great- ''W ^# ^^■p r iM" rJH ■ S04 VOYAGES AND ADVENTURES nes8, in which they had cut steps for the more easy ascent to the top, where there was a kind of tower, to which they invited Drake, and from thence sliewed him not only the North sea, from whence they came, but the great South sea, on which no English vessel had ever sailed. This prospect exciting his natural curiosity and ardour for adventures and discoveries, he lifted up his hands to God, and implored his blessing upon the resolution, which he then formed, of sailing in an English ship on that sea. At length, being within riew of Panama, they left all fre- quented roads, for fear of lieing discovered, and posted them- selves in a grove near the way between Panama and Nombre de Dios : then they sent a Symeron in the habit of a negro of Panama, to enquire on what night the recoes, or drivers of mules, by which the treasure is caiTied, were to set forth. The messenger was so well qualified for his undertaking, and so industrious in the prosecution of it, that he soon returned with an account that the treasurer of Lima, intending to re- turn to Europe, would pass that night, with eight mules laden with gold, and one with jewels. Having received this information, they immediately marched towards Venta Cruz, the first town on the way to Ncmbre de Dios, sending, for security, two Symerons before, who, as they went, perceived by the scent of a match that some Spa- niard was before them, and going silently forwards, surprized a soldier asleep upon the ground. They immediately bound him, and brought him to Drake, who, upon enquiry, found that their spy had not deceived them in his intelligence. The soldier having informed himself of the captain^s name, con- ceived such a coifidencc in his well known clemency, that, after having made an ample discovery of the treasure that was now at hand, he petitioned not only that he would command the Syliierons to spare his life, but that, when the treasure should fall tr»to his hands, he would allow him as much as '%$' might maintain him and his mistress, since they were about to ' ^ -gain more than their whole company could carry away. Drake then ordered his men to lie down in the long grass, about fifty paces from the road, half on one side, with himi- OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. sm L*ent to invited 'th sea, { which ting his overies, ig upon English \ all fre- ed them- Nombre negro of Irivers of jet forth, dng, and returned ng to re- ules laden marched cmbre de wi:o, aa some Spa- surprized elv bound found The lame, con- »ncy, that, re that was I command le treasure as much as re about to ay- long grass, with huW' iry, nee. «elf, and half on the other, with Oxenham, and the captain of the Symerons, so much behind, that one company might «eize the foremost recoe, and the other the hindcrmost ; fur the Jhules of these recoes, or drivers, being tied together, travel on a line, and are all guided by leading the first. When they had lain about an hour in this place, they be- gan to hear the bells of the mulei on each hand ; upon which orders were given, that the drove which came from Venta Cruz should pass unmolested, l)ecause they carried notliing of great value, and those only be intercepted which were travel- ling thither, and that none of the men should rise up till the signal should be given. But one Robert Pike, heated with strong liquor, left his company and prevailed upon one of the Symerons to creep >vith him to the way side, that thtiy might signalize themselves by seizing the first mule, and hearing the trampling of a horse, as he lay, oould not be restrained by the Symeron from rising up to observe who was passing by. This he did so imprudently, that he was discovered by the passenger, for by Drake''s order the English had put their shirts on over their coats, that the night and tumult might not hinder them from from knowing one another. The gentleman was immediately observed by Drake to change his trot into a gallop ; but, the reason of it not appear- ing, it was imputed to his fear of the robbers that usually infest that road, and the English still continued to expect the trcar. sure. In a short time one of the recoes, that were passing towards Venta Cruz, came up, and was eagerly seized by the English, who expected nothing less than half the revenue of the Indies ; nor is it easy to imagine their mortification and perplexity when they found only two mules laden with silver, and the rest having no other burthen than provisions. The driver was brought immediately to the captain, and informed him that the horseman, whom he had observed pass by with so much precipitatbn, had informed the treasurer of what he had observed, and advised him to send back the mules that carried his gold and jewels, and suffer only the rest to proceed, that he might by that cheap experiment di^ cover whether there was any ambush on the way. ' [■i.i^r~- ■ 206 VOYAGES AND ADVENTURES^ That Drake was not less disgusted than his followers at the disappointment, cannot be doubted; but ther^ was now no time to be spent in complaints. The whole country waa alarmed, and all the force of the Spaniards was summoned to overwhelm him. He had no fortress to retire to, every man was his enemy, and every retreat better known to the Spa- niards than to himself. This was an occasion that demanded all the qualities of a hero, an intrepidity never to be shaken, and a jud^ent never to be perplexed. He immediately con- sidered all the circumstances of his present situation, and found that it aftbrded him only the choice of marching back by tlic same way through which he came, or of forcing his passage to Venta Cruz. When they came within a mile of the town, they dismissed the mules which they had made use of for their more easy and speedy passage, and continued their march along a road cut though thick woods, in which a company of soldiers, who were quartered in the place to defend it against the Symerons, had posted themselves, together with a convent of friars headed by one of their brethren, whose zeal against the Northern heresy had incited him to hazard his person, and assume the province of a general. Drake, who was advertised by two Symerons, whom he sent befin-e, of the approach of the Spaniards, commanded his followers to receive the first volley without firing. In a short time he heard himself summoned by the Spanish captain to yield, with a promise of protection and kind treatment; to which he answered wii,h defiance, contempt, and the discharge of his pistol. Immediately the Spaniards poured in their shot, by which only one man was killed, and Drake, with some others, slightly wounded; upon which the signal was given by Drake's whistle to fall upon them. The English, after discharging their arrows and shot, pressed furiously forward, and drove the Spaniards before them, which the Symerons, whom the ti^rror of the shot had driven to some distance, observing, and redallmg their courage, animated each other with songs in their own language, and rushed forward with such impetuosity* that Eng after leftt Ti with treatt going shoul coura Ha the Sj apprel licitou men, ] freshm cheerfi them t< but on Wht a town consent gold to it, was examinj regard his nam the pini eent to unable compan3 never pr thanks t Drake prospectj upon hi •chemes with ma|] OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. sol that they overtook them near the town, and supported by the EngUsh, dispersed them with, the loss of only one man, who, after he had received his wound, had strength and resolution left to kill his assailant. They pursued the enemy into the town, in which they met with some plunder, which was given to the Symerons, and treated the inhabitants with great clemency, Drake hifnself going to the Spanish ladies to assure them that no injuries should be offered them ; so inseparable is humanity from tru« courage. Having thus broken the spirits, and scattered the forces of the Spaniards, he pursued his march to his ship, without any apprehension of danger- yet with great speed, being very so- licitous about the stace of the crew ; so that he allowed his men, harassed as they were, but little time for sleep or re- freshment, but by kind exhortations, gentle authority, and a cheerful participation of all their hardships, prevailed upon them to bear, without murmurs, not only the toil of ti-avelling, but on some days the pain of hunger. When they were within five leagues of the ships, they found a town built in their absence by the Symerons, at which Drake consented to halt, sending a Symeron to the ship with his gold tooth-pick as a token, which, though the master knew it, was not sufficient to gain the messenger credit, till upon examination he found that the captain having ordered him to regard no messenger without his handwriting, had engraven li^s name upon it with the point of his knife. He then sent the pinnace up the river, which they met, and afterwards eent to the town for those whose wearine, s had made them unable to march farther. On the 23d of ^'eLruary the whole company was re-united ; and Drake, whose good or ill success never prevailed over his piety, celebrated their meeting with thanks to God. Drake, not yet discouraged, now turned his thoughts to new- prospects, and, without languishing in melancholy reflections upon his past miscarriages, employed himself in forming ichemes for repairing them. Eager of action, and acquainted with num^s nature, he never suffered idleness to infect his foU mm ■ Pfr ■ -If fJ mm 208 VOYAGES AND ADVENTURES lowers with cowardice, but kept them from sinking under any disappointment by diverting their attention to some new enterprize. Drake, therefore, manning his two pinnaces, the Bear and the Minion, he sent John Oxenham in the Bear towards To- lon, to seize upon provisions ; and went himself in the Minion to the Cabezas, to intercept the treasure that was to be trans- ported from Veragua and that coast to the fleet at Nombre de Dios, first dismissing with presents those Symerons that de. sired to return to their wives, and ordering those that chose to remain to be entertained in the ship. Drake on his voyage took a stout vessel which he fitted out for war ; and, being joined by the Bear, he sailed towards the Cabezas, where he was joined by a French adventurer with twenty of his men. Having arrived at Rio Francisco, he landed and proceeded through the woods towards Nombre de Dios. At length, after a laborious march of more than seven leagues, they began to hear die noise of the carpenters in the bay, it being the custom in that hot season to work in the night : and in a short time they perceived the approach of the recoes, or droves of mules from Panama. They now no longer doubted that their labours would be rewarded, and every man imagined himself secure from poverty and labour for the remaining part of his life. They, therefore, when the mules came up, rushed out and seized them, with an alacrity proportioned to their expectations. The three droves consisted of 109 mules, each of which carried 300 pounds weight of sil- ver. It was to little purpose that the soldiers, ordered to guard the treasure, attempted resistance. Afler a short com- bat, in which the French captain, and one of the Symerons were wounded, it appeared with how much greater ardour men are animatea by interest than fidelity. As it was possible for them carry away but r small part of this treasure, after having wearied themselves with hiding it in holes and shallow waters, they determined to return by the same way, and, without being pursued, entered the woods, wkere the Fi:euch captain, being disabled by his wound». was obliged When men mi known himself But ( whole o travelled the 9d 4 surprisec diately c( been can been fitt< have ovei did their i them, tha ver where weakly ma mander, v and all pos These i and every , difficulties fortune ; v shaken, am barrassed, ( that were tl to sea upon Wm. Johr w^ere willing raft, which and an oar t Having gard for the! for their deli difficulty, 8ai towards him, to be his ow Vol. I. OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 209 obliged to stay, tHro of his company continuing with him. When they had gone forward about two leagues, the French- men missed another of their company, who upon inquiry was known to be intoxicated with wine, and supposed to have lost himself in the woods, by neglecting to observe the guides. But common prudence not allowing them to hazard the whole company by too much solicitude for a single life, they travelled on towards Rio Francisco, at which they arrived on the 8d of April; but, looking out for their pinnaces, were surprised with the sight of seven Spar'sh shallops, and imme- diately concluded that some intelligence of their motions had been carried to Nombre de Dios, and that these vessels had been fitted out to pursue them, which might undoubtedly have overpowered the pinnaces and their feeble crew. Nor did their suspicion stop here ; but immediately it occurred to them, that their men had been compelled by torture to disco- ver where their frigate and ship was stationed, which being weakly manned, and without the presence of the chief com- mander, would fall into their hands almost without resistance, and all possibility of escaping be entirely cut off. These reflections sunk the whole company into despair; and every one, instead of endeavouring to break through the dijBSculties that Jiurrounded him, resigned up himself to his ill fortune; when Drake, whose intrepidity was never to be shaken, and whose reason was never to be surprized or em- barrassed, ordered his men to make a rafl out of the trees that were then floating on the river, offered himself to put off to sea upon it, and cheerfully asked who would accompany him. John Owen, John Smith, and two Frenchmen, who were willing to share his fortune, embarked with him on the raft, which was fitted out with a sail made of a buisket-sack, and an oar to direct its course instead of a rudder. • Having comforted the rest with assurances of his re- gard for them, and resolution to leave nothing unattempted for their deliverance, he put off^, and after having, with much difficulty, sailed three leagues, descried two pinnaces hasting towards him, which, upon a nearer approach, he discovered to be his own, and perceiving thiAt they anchored behind a Vol. I. i2 D CM ,!i 'S**' m t:. 210 VOYAGES AND ADVENTURES point that jutted out into the sea, he put to shore, and cros- sing the land on foot, was received by his company with that satisfaction, which is only known to those that have been ac- quainted with dangers and distresses. The same night they rowed to Rio Francisco, where they took in the rest, with what treasure they had been able to carry with them through the woods ; then sailing back with the utmost expedition, they returned to their frigate, and soon after to their ship, where Drake divided the gold and sil- ver equally between the French and the English. Here they spent about fourteen days in fitting out their fri- gate more completely, and then dismissing the Spaniards with their ship, lay a few days among the Cabezas ; while 12 Eng- lish and 16 Symerons travelled once more into the country, as well to recover the French captain, whom they had left wounded, as to bring away the treasure which they had hid in the sands. Drake, whom his company would not suffer to hazai-d his person in another land expedition, went with them to Rio Francisco, where he found one of the Frenchmen who had staid to attend their captain, and was informed by him, upon his inquiries after his fortune, that half an hour after their separation, the Spaniai'ds came upon them, and easily seized upon the wounded captain; but that his companion might have escaped with him, had he not preferred money to life ; for seeing him throw down a box of jewels that retarded him, he could not forbear taking it up, and with that, and the gold which he had already, was so loaded that he could not escape. With regard to the bars of gold and silver, which they had concealed in the ground, he informed them that S,000 men had been employed in digging for tliem. The men, however, either distrusting the informer's vera- city, or confident that what they had hidden could not be found, pursued their journey ; but upon their arrival at the place, found the ground turned up for twa miles round, and were able to recover no more than thirteen bars of silver, and a small quantity of gold. They discovered afterwards that the Frenchman who was left in the woods, falling afterwards into the hands of the Spaniards, was tortured by them till he confess( to Drai Ther with th with pr «torativ« Btaid ah long vo the fait/ up the p present were wai had no p Pedro, the ship, upon a sc had pres( valuable j plates of desirous t pence, ga and estee informed and hono doubted n rons. He which wa stock; for sent out, whatever appropriat consistent fear, and gold, he t tifice or di{ They nc months th( OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 211 confessed where Drake had concealed his plunder. So fatal to Drake's expedition was the drunkenness of his followers. Then dismissing the French, they passed by Carthagena with their colours flying, and soon after took a frigate laden with provisions and honey, which they valued as a great re- storative, and then sailed away to the Cabezas. Here they staid about a week to clean their vessels, and fit them for a long voyage, determining to set sail for England ; and, that the faithful Symerons might not go away unrewarded, broke up the pinnaces, and gave them the iron, the most valuable present in the world, to a nation whose only employments were war and hunting, and amongst whom show and luxury had no place. •' > Pedro, their captain, being desired by Drake to go through the ship, and to choose what he most desired, fixed his eye upon a scymetar set with diamonds, which the French captain had presented to Drake ; and being unwilling to ask for so valuable a present, offered for it four large quoits, or thick plates of gold, which he had hitherto concealed ; but Drake, desirous to show him that fidelity is seldom without a recom- pence, gave it him with the highest professions of satisfaction and esteem. Pedro, receiving it with the utmost gratitude, informed him, that by bestowing it he had conferred greatness and honour upon him ; for by presenting it to his king, he doubted not of obtaining the highest rank among the Syme- rons. He then persisted in his resolution of leaving the gold, which was generously thrown by Drake into the common stock ; for he said, that those at whose expences he had been sent out, ought to share in all the gain of the expedition, whatever pretence cavil and chicanery might supply for the appropriation of any part of it. Thus was Drake's character consistent with itself; he was equally superior to avarice and fear, and though whatever danger he might go in quest of gold, he thought it not valuable enough to be obtained by ar- tifice or dishonesty. They now forsook the coast of America, which for many months they had kept in perpetual alarms, having taken more liii U'.'i: ' i t!!ti Mvi' 212 VOYAGES AND ADVENTURES than 200 ships of all sizes between Carthagena and Nombr« de Dio8, of which they never destroyed any, unless they were fitted out against them, nor ever detained the prisoners longer than was necessary lor their own security or concealment, pro- viding for them in the same manner as for themselves, and {protecting them from the malice of the Symerons; a beha> viour which humanity dictates, and which, perhaps, even po. licy cannot disapprove. He must certainly meet with obstinate opposition who makes it equally dangerous to yield as to resist, and who leaves his enemies no hopes but from victory. What riches they acquire^! is not particularly related ; but it is not to be doubted, that the plunder of so many vessels, together with the silver which they seized at Nombre de Dios, must amount to a very large sum, though the part that was allotted to Drake was not sufficient to lull him in effeminacy, or to repress his natural inclination to adventures. They arrived at Plymouth on the 9th of August, 1673, on Sunday, in the afternoon : and so much were the people de- lighted with the news of their arrival, that they left the preacher, and ran in crowds to the quay with shouts and con* gratulations. Drake having, in his former expedition, had a view of the South sea, and formed a resolution to sail upon it, did not suffer himself to be diverted from his design by the prospect of any difficulties that might obstruct the attempt, nor any dangers that might attend the execution; obstacles which brave men often find it much more easy to overcorae, than secret envy and domestic treachery. . Whatsoever were his obstacles, and whatsoever the motives that produced them, it was not till the year 1577, that he was able to assemble a force proportioned to his design, and to obtain a commission from the queen, by which he was con^ stituted captain-general of a fleet consisting of five ships, of which the Pelican, admiral, of an 100 tons, was commanded by himjielf ; the Elizabeth, vice-admiral, of 80 tons, by John Winter ; the Marigold, of 30 tons, by John Thomas ; the Swan, 50 tons, by Johil Chester; the Christopher, of 15 tons. by Tlu in the Drake's Thet other p and fun the long hifcono ried wit} in those the high< tive coun vice of si with man musicians would mo iized peop Having and obligi which the the 13th o capeCanti ward to tl: for the firsi the whole i The Mo place in dia towards the river of PJa then standi] storm, in w dent detern that he mi^ quent separ more hands ^or this commodious hi^ little Aee 'F^, OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. fa$ by Thomas Moche, the same as it seeing, who was carpenter in the former voyage, and who destroyed one of the shipa by Drake^s direction. These ships, equipped partly by himself, aad partly by other {»ivate adventurers, he manned with 164 stout sailors, and furnished with such provisions as he judged necessary for the long voyage in which he was engaged. Nor did he confine his concern to naval stores, or military preparations ; but carf^ ried with him whatever he thought might contribute to raise in those nations with which he should have any intercourse, the highest ideas of the politeness and magnificence of his na* tive country. He therefore not only procured a complete ser- vice of silver for his own table, and furnished the cook-room with many vessels of the same metal, but engaged several musicians to accompany him; rightly judging that nothing would more excite the admiration of any savage and uncivi* lized people. Having been driven back by a tempest in their first attempt, and obliged to return to Plymouth to repair the damages which they had suffered, they set sail again from thence on the 13th ojp December, 1577, and on the 25th had sight o{ cape Cantire in Barbary, from whence they coasted on south- ward to the island of Mogadore, which Drake had iqppointed for the first place of rendezvous, and on the iS7th brought the the whole fleet to anchor in a harbour on the main land. The Moors having seized one of Drake'^s men, he left this place in disgust, and, having touched at St. Jago, {noceeded towards the coast of Brazil. Having spent a fiirtnight in the river of Plata, to refresh his men after thdr long voyage) and then standing out to sea, he was again surprised by a sudden storm, in which they had lost ^ght of the Swan. This aoci«> dent determined Drake to contract the number of his fleet, that he might not only avoid the inconvenienoe of such fire- quent separations, but ease the labour of his men, by having more hands in each vessel. For this purpose he sailed along the coast in quest of a commodious harbour. But being overtaken by a severe storm, hi« little fleet was separated. However, th« ihips were again j^. W-\ It;:;,. fci';-; t^'iAH: i su VOYAGES AND ADVENTURES re-united in consequenc: Drake''8 Rkill and unremitted dili. gence. Having broke up the Swan and Christopher, he pro- ceeded towards the South sea; and cast anclior in port Julian. Here he landed with some of the chief of his company to seek for water ; and was immediately accosted by two natives, of whom Magellan left a very terrible account, having described them as a nation of ^ants and monsters; nor is his narrative entirely without foundation, for they are of the largest size, ' though not taller than some Englishmen ; their strength is proportioned to their bulk, and their voice loud, boisterous, and terrible. Theityvo who associated themselves with the English ap- pealed much pleased with their new guests, received willingly what was ^ven them, and very exactly observed every thing that passed, seeming more particularly delighted with seeing -J Oliver, the master-gunner, shoot an English arrow. They shot themselves likewise in emulation, but their arrows always feU to the ground far short of his. Soon after this friendly contest came another, who observ- ing the famiUarity of his countrymen with the strangers, ap- peared much displeased, and as the Englishmen perceived, endeavoured to dissuade them from such an intercourse. "What eftect his arguments had was soon apparent, for another of Drake's companions, being desirous to show the third In- dian a specimen of the EngUsh valour and dexterity, attempted hkewise to shoot an arrow, but drawing it with his full force burst the bow-string ; upon which the Indians, who were un- acquainted with the other weapons, imagined him disarmed, followed the company, as they were walking negligently down towards their boat, and let fly their arrows, aiming particularly at Winter, who had the bow in his hand. He finding himself wounded in the shoulder, endeavoured to refit his bow, and turning about was pierced with a second arrow in the breast. Oliver, the gunner, immediately presented his piece at the insidious assailants, which failing to take fire gave them time to level another flight of arrows, by which he was killed; nor, perhaps, had any of them escaped, surprized and perplexed as they were, jliad not Drake, with his usual presence of mind» animatec them, b fts they c bodies wi example i they did in dan^rer gun, whi< use of, di and had k shot, with Wm to sue numbers i themselves too'OTuch t without m( being hurt was interi'e( a military f They sta any other ir which they being able ai ferred their ! But Drak( formidable ti obviate, mor< Indians; for one of the ge but to murde This transi manner, that The writer w\ the name of t cinct narrative time, to have ducements to a ruin of the exi OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. «15 animated their courage, and directing their motions, ordering them, by perpetually changing their places, to elude, as much as they could, the aim of their enemies, and to defend their bodies with their targets ; and instructing them, by his own example to pick up, and break the arrows as they fell ; which they did with so much diligence, that the Indians were soon in danger of being disarmed. Then Drake himself taking the gun, which Oliver had so unsuccessfully attempted to make use of, discharged it at the Indian that first began the fray, and had killed the gunner, aiming it so happily, that the hail shot, with which it was loaded, tore open his belly, and forced him to such terrible outcries, that the Indians, though their numbers increased, and many of their countrymen shewed themselves from different parts of the adjoining wood, were too'iffuch terrified to renew die assault, and suffered Drake, without molestation, to withdraw his wounded friend, who, being hurt in his lungs, languished two days, and then dying, was interred with his companion, with the usual ceremony of a military funeral. They staid here two months afterwards, without receiving any other injuries from the natives, who finding the danger to which they exposed themselves by open hostilities, and not being able any more to surprize the vigilance of Drake, pre- ferred their safety to revenge. But Drake had other enemies to conquer or escape far more formidable than these barbarians ; and insidious practices to obviate, more artful and dangerous, than the ambushes of the Indians ; for in this place was laid open a design formed by one of the gentlemen of the fleet not only to defeat the voyage, but to murder the general. This transaction is related in so obscure and confused a manner, that it is difficult to form any judgment upon it. The writer who gives the largest account of it, has suppressed the name of the criminal, which we learn, from a more suc- cinct narrative, published in a collection of travels near that time, to have been Thomas Doughtie. What were his in- ducements to attempt the destruction of his leader, and the ruin of the expedition, or what were his views if his design M n\ V'i I I •• * :;••'•"«*« 01 i m mm $16 VOYAGES AND ADVENTURES had succeeded, what measures he had hitherto taken, whom he had endeavoured to corrupt, with what arts, or what suc- cess, we are not told. The plot, as the narrative assures us, was laid before their departure from England, and discovered, in its whole extent, to Drake himself, in his garden at Plymouth, wiio neverthe- less not only entertained the person so accused as one of his company, but, this writer very particularly relates, treated him with remarkable kindness and regard, setting him always at his own table, and lodging him in the same cabin with him- self Nor did he ever discover the least suspicion of his in- tentions, till they arrived at this place, but appeared by the authority with which he invested him, to consider him, as one to whom, in his absence, he could most securely entrust the direction of his affairs. At length, in this remote comer of the world, he found out a design formed against his life, called together all his officers, kid before them the evidence on which he grounded the accusation, and summoned the criminal, who, full of all the horrors of guilt, and confounded at so clear a detection of his whole scheme, immediately confessed his crimes, and acknowledged himself unworthy of longer life; upon which the whole assembly, consisting of thirty persons, after having considered the affair with the attention which it required, and heard all that could be urged in extenuation of his offence, unanimously signed the sentence by which he was condemned to suffer death. Drake, however, unwilling, as it seemed, to proceed to extreme severities, offered him his choice, either of being executed on the island, or sent ashore on the main land, or being sent to England to be tried before the council ; of which, after a day's consideration, he chose the first ; and, as it is related, obstinately deaf to all persua- sions, and adhering to his first choice, after having received the communion, and dined cheerfully with the general, was executed in the afternoon with many proofs of remorse, but none of fear. After the execution of this man, the whole company, either convinced of the justice of the proceeding, or awed by the se- verity, applied themselves without any murmurs, or appear- Attc^s of 4 having bn their ships entered th contrary wi of that wii entered a n with a burr more island take possess the largest , three thouss Erom th( very crookec tion of headi entirely stop] account of t There are im in most of th sides rises in encircled with down in snoi ice, which is i green, fruitfu September no English ve posed to have men, who had recover theu* si were scarce fo 7thofSepteml 80 violent, thai was its. fury so little intermissit which time thej ocean to anoth* or lying upon tl Vol, I.— (10 OP SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. m Uticti of discontent, to the prosecution of the voyage; and having broken up another vessel, and reduced the number of their ships to three, they lefl the port, and on August the ^th entered the struts of Magellan, in which they struggled with contrary winds, and the various dangers to y,'aQh the intricacy of that winding passage exposed them, till night, and then entered a more open sea, in which they discovered an island with a burning mountain. On the S4th they fell in with three more islands, to which Drake gave names, and, landing to take possession of them in the name of his sovereign, found in the largest so prodigious a number of birds, that they killed three thousand of them in one day. From these islands to the South sea, the strait becomes very crooked and narrow, so that sometimes, by the interposi- tion of headlands, the passage seems shut up, and the voyage entirely stopped. To double these capes is very difficult, on account of the frequent alterations to be made in the course. There are indeed, as Magellan observes, many harbours, but in most of them no bottom is to be found. The land on both sides rises into innumerable mountains : the tops of them are encircled with clouds and vapours, which being congealed fall down in snow, and increase their height by hardening into ice, which is never dissolved ; but the valleys are neverthelefs green, fruitful, and pleasant. September 6, they entered the great South sea, on which no English vessel had ever been navigated before, and pro- posed to have directed their course towards the line, that their men, who had suffered by the severity of the climate, might recover their strengtli in a warmer latitude. But their designs were scarce formed before they were frustrated ; for on the 7th of September, aflter an eclipse of the moon, a storm arose, 80 violent, that it left them little hopes of surviving it ; nor was its. fury so dreadful as its continuance, for it lasted with little intermission till the 28th of October, 52 days, during which time they were tossed incessantly from one part of the ocean to another, without any power of spreading their sails, or lying upon their anchors, amidst Shelving shores, scattered Vol. I.— (10) 2 E Hii" ■^;*;. I'' i\ S18 VOYAGES AND ADVENTURES^ rocks, and unknown islands, the tcn)i)cst continually roaring-y and the waves dashing over them. In this storm, on the 30th of September, the Marigold, commanded by captain Thomas, was separated from them. On the 7th of October, having entered a harbour, where they hoped for some intermission of their fatigues, they were in a few hours forced out to sea by a violent gust, which broke the eable, at which time they lost sight of the Elizabeth^ the vice- admiral, whose crew, as was afterwards discovered, wearied with labour, and discouraged by the prospect of future dan- gers, recovered the struts on the next day, and, returning by the same passage through which they came, smled along the the coast of Brazil, and on the 2d of June, in the year fol- lowing, arrived at England. From this bay, they were driven southward to 55 degrees, where among some islands they sttdd two days, to ihe great refreshment of the crew; but, being again orced into the main sea, they were tossed about with perpetual expectation of perishing, till soon after they again came to anchor near the same place; and, having spent three days in supplying themselves with wood and water, they were by a new storm driven to the latitude of 56 degrees, where they beheld the extremities of the American coast, and the confluence of the Atlantic and Southern ocean. Here they ai-rived on the 28th of October, and at last were blessed with the sight of a calm sea, having for almost two months endured such a storm as no traveller has given an ac- count of, and such as in that part of the world, though accus< tomed to hurjicanes, they were before unacquainted with. On the SOtii of October they steered away towards the place appoinf ed for the rendezvous of the fleet, which was in SO degrees ; and on the next day discovered two islands so well stocked with fowls, that they victualled their ships with, them, and then sailed forward along the coast of Peru till they came to 37 degrees, where finding neither of their ships, nor any convenient port, they came to anchor, November the 125th, at Mucho, an island inhabited by such Indians as the/ Wiruelty of ,nent, tow them in T^ please ther ing present ^hewed the The ne landed witl wards the j were suddei Nor were tl the rocks mi up from th< with such d by them, th either retirii self received most to the these wound geon, who i assist them I rience or ski that they all On the aft SOth of No their boat hj turned with j ed. By this to be expecte he offered to 8al was acce direction of t the harbour the town of S sufficient stor wines of Chi richly laden, '%t OF SIR fhancis drake S19 '•«rue1ty of the Spanish conquerors had driven from the contU inent, to whom they appHed for water and provisions, offering •them in return such things as they imagined most likely to please them. The Indians seemed willing to traffic, and hav- ing presented them with fruits and two fat sheep, would have ^hewed them a place whither they should come for water. The next morning, according to agreement, the English landed with their water-vessels, and sent two men forward to- wards the place appointed, wlw, ahout the middle of the way, were suddenly attacked by the Indians, and immediately slain. Nor were the rest of the company out of danger ; for behind the rocks was lodged an ambush of 500 men, who, starting up from their retreat, discharged their arrows into the boat with such dexterity, that every one of the crew was wounded by them, the sea being then high, and hindering them from either retiring or making use of their weapons. Drake him* self received an arrow under his eyej which pierced him al- most to the brain, and another in his head. The danger of these wounds was much increased by the absence of their sur- geon, who was in the vice-admiral, so that they had none to assist them but a boy, whose age did not admit of much expe- rience or skill; yet so much were they favoured by Providence, that they all recovered. On the afternoon of the rame day, they set sail, and on the SOth of November dropped anchor in Philips bay, where their boat having been sent out to discover the country, re- turned with an Indian in his canoe, whom they had intercept* ed. By this man Drake was informed, that no suppUes were to be expected here ; but that southward, in a place to which he offered to be his pilot there was great plenty. This projxi- eal was accepted, and on the 5th of December, under the direction of the good-natured Indian, they came to anchor in the harbour called, by the Spaniards, Valpcrizo, near the the town of St. James of Cliiuli, where the}) met not only with sufficient stores of provisions, and with store-houses full of the wines of Chili, but with a ship called the Captain of Morial, richly laden, having, together with large quantities of the ill I IP; ?. ,ir::{ijt fisto VOYAGES AND ADVENTURES some wine, some of the fine gold of Baldivia, and a great cross of gold set with emeralds. They had now Httle other anxiety than for their friends who had been separated from them, and whom they now de. termined to seek, and to station the'^* ship at some place where they might build a pinnace. To this end, on the 19th of December, they entered a bay near Cippo, a town inhabited by Spaniards, who, discovering them, immediately issued out, to the number of a 100 horsemen, with about 200 naked In-^ dians running by their sides. The English observing their approach, retired to their boat without any loss, except of one man, whom no persuasions or intreaties could move to retire with the rest, and who, therefore, was shot by the Spaniards, who, exulting at the victory, commanded the Indians to draw the carcase from the rock on which he fell, and in the sight of the English beheaded it, then cut off the right-hand, and tore out the heart, which they carried away, having first com- manded the Indians to shoot their arrows all over the body. The arrows of the Indians were made of green wood for the immediate service of the day ; the Spaniards, with the fear that always harasses oppressors, forbidding them to have any weapons, when they do not want their present assistance, Leaving this place, they soon found a harbour more secura and convenient, where t,hey built their pinnace, in which Drake went to seek his companions, but, finding the wind contrary, he was obliged to return in two days. Leaving this place soon after, tliey sailed along the coast in search of fresh wf.ier, and landing at Turapaca, they found a Spaniard asleep, with silver bars lying by him to tlie value of 3,000 ducats. Not all the insults which they had received from his countrymen could provoke them to offer any violence to his person, and therefore they carried away his treasure without doing him any furflier hai-m. Landing in anotlier place, they found a Spaniard driving eight Peruvian sheep, which are the beasts of burden in tiiat country, each laden with 100 pounds weight of silver, which tbey seized likewise and drove to their boats. Farther along ..w: OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 221 the coast lay some Indian towns, from which the inhabitants repaired to the ship, on floats made of seal-skins, blown full of wind, two of which they fasten together, and sitting be- tween them row with gi-eat swiftness and carry considerable burthens. They very readily traded for glass and such trifles, with which the old and the young seemed equally delighted. Still coasting in hopes of meeting their friends, tlrsy anchored on the 7tli of February before Aria, where they took two barks with about 800 pounds weight of silver, and, pursuing their course, seized another vessel lad :n with linens. On the 15th of February, 1578, they arnved at Lima, and entered the harbour without resistance, though 30 ships were stationed there, of which seventeen were equipped for their voyages, and many of them are represented in the narrative as vessels of considerable force; so that their security seems to have consisted not in tlieir strength, but in their reputation, which had so intimidated the Spaniards, that the sight of their own superiority could not rouse them to opposition. Instances of Buch panic terrors are to be met with in othe • relations ; but as they are, for the most part, quickly dissipated by rea- son and reflection, a wise commander will rarely found his hopes of success on them; and, perhaps, on this (x;casion, the Spaniai'ds scarcely deserve a severer censure for their cow- ardice, than Drake for his temerity. In one of tliose ships they found 1,500 bai's of silver ; in another a chest of money ; and very rich lading in many of the rest, of which the Spaniards tamely suff*ered them to carry the most valuable part away, and would have permitted thekn no less peaceably to bum their ships ; but Drake never made war with a spirit of cruelty or revenge, or carried on hostilities further than was necessary for his own advantage or defence. They set sail the next morning towards Panama, in quest of the Caca Fuego, a very rich ship, which had sailed 14 days before, bound thither from Lima, which they overtook on the 1st of March near cape Francisco, and boarding it, found not only a quantity of jewels, and 12 chests of ryals of ^)l'ite, but 80 pounds weight of gold, and 26 tons of uncoined silver, with pieces of wrought plate to a great value. In unlat mg km I ■:. m ■:/y'f ,r-ir ■':' • , I f i mm m. 222 VOYAGES AND ADVENTURES this prize they spent six days, and then, dismissing the Spa- niards, stood off to sea. Being now sufficiently enriched, and having lost all hopes of finding their associates, and perht^s beginning to be infected with that desire of ea.«'j and pleasure which is the natural con- sequence of weakli obtained by dangers and fatigues, they began to consult about their return home^ and, in pursuance of Drake's advice, resolved first to find out some convenient harbour, where they might supply themselves with wood and water, and then endeavour to discover a passage from the South sea into the Atlantic ocean ; a discovery which would not only enable them to return home with less danger, and in a shorter time, but would much facilitate the navigation in those parti of the world. For this purpose they had recourse to a port in the island of Caines, where they met with fish, wood, and fresh water, and in their course tr»ik a ship ladon with silk and linen, which was the last that they met ril i the coast of America. But being desirous of storing themselves for a long course, they touclietl, April the 15th, at Guatulco, a Spanish island^ where they supplied themselves with provisions, and seized a bushel of ryals of silver. From Guatulco, which lies in 15 deg. 40 min. they stood out to 3ea, and, without approaching to any land, sailed for- ward, till on the night following, the 3d of June, being then in the latitude of 38 degrees, they were suddenly benumbed with such cold blasts, <.hat they were scarcely able to handle the ropes. This cold increased upon them, as they pror cd d, to such a degree, that the sailors were discourage .v^m mounting upon the deck; nor were the effects of the ciu'iy^: to be imputed to the warmth of the regions to which they had been lately accustomed, for tlie ropes were stiff with frost, and and the meat could scarcely be conveyed wai'm to the table. On the 17th of June they came to anchor in 38 deg. 30 min. when they saw the land naked, and the trees without leaves. The savage inhabitants viewed the stranger?? with as- tonishment, and as it appeared, worshipped the nc .iivinitiei that liad condescended to touch upon their countn. '^ht king, ii a guard received luted hi then tak named i resembla The h ground, shelving crammed midst, an generally Bulrushes, a deer ove and obedic On the J this harboi great numi through th determined July 25th, on Septeml about eigh the inhabiti the solid ti above the i Were bumis «id were ke ef them, wi the boat, an The first . other things *nd exchan^ great shew < imagined, Ja ^P oTcano OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. S3S king, in a few days, came to visit Drake, accompanied with a guard of about 100 tall men, and was so struck with the aj^pearance of tlie English and pleased with the presents he received, that he placed the crown on Drake's head, and sa- luted him with the title of Hioh or king. The country wa» then taken possession of in the name of queen Elizabeth, and named Albion, from its white cliffs, in which it bore some resemblance to England. The houses of ''he inhabitants are round holes dug in the ground, from the brink of which they raise rafters, or piles shelving towards the middle, where they all meet, and are crammed together; they lie upon rushes, with the fire in the midst, and let the smoke fiv out at the door. The men are generally naked ; but the women make a kind of petticoat of bulrushes, which they comb like hemp, and throw the skin of a deer over their shoulders. They are very modest, tractable^ and obedient to their husbands. On the 23d of July the English weighed anchor, and near this harbour they touched at some islands, where they found great numbers of seals ; and despairing now to find a passage through the northern parts, he, after a general consultation, determined to steer away to tlie Molui>v,as, and setting sail July 25th, he sailed for 68 days without sight of land ; and on September 30th arrived within view of some islands, situate about eight degrees noitliward ^»*om the line, from whence the inhabitants resorted to them in canoes, hollowed out of the solid trunk of a tree, and raised at ^ oth ends so high above the water, that they seemed almost a semicircle ; they were burnished in such a manner that they shone like ebony, and were kept steady by a piece of timber, fixed on each side ef them, with strong canes, that were fastened at one end to the boat, and at the other to the end of the timber. The first company that came brought fruits, potatoes, and other things of no great value, with an appearance of traffic, and exchanged their lading for other commodities, with great shew of honesty and friendship; but having, as thej imagined, laid all suspicion asleep, they soon sent another iee> of canoes, of wliich the crt^ws behaved with ail the inso- cj m . 1"'- nil xm\ liiif ^^4 VOYAGES AND ADVENTURES lence of tyrants, and all the rapacity of thieves ; for whatever was suffered to come into their hands, they seemed to consider as their own, and would neither pay for it nor restore it ; and at length, finding the English resolved to admit them no longer, they discharged a shower of stones from their boats, which insult Drake prudently and generously returned by or- dering a piece of ordnance to be, fired without hurting them, at which they were so terrified, that they leaped into th« water, and hid themselves under the canoes. Having for some time but little wind, they did not arrive at the Moluccas till the 3d of November, and then designing to touch at Tidore, they were visited, as they sailed by a little island belonging to the king of Temate, by the viceroy of the place, who informed them, that it would be more advanta- nis for them to have recourse to his master for supplies and i, iistance than to the king of Ternate, who was in some degree dependent on the Portuguese, and that he would himself carry the news of their arrival, and prepare for their reception. Drake was, by the arguments of the viceroy, prevailed upon to alter his resolution ; and, on the 5th of November, cast anchor before Ternate ; and scarce Avas he arrived, before the viceroy, with others of the chief nobles, came out in three large boats, rowed by 40 men on each side, to conduct the ship into a safe harbour; and soon afler the king himself, having received a velvet cloak by a messenger from Drake, as a token of peace, came with such a retinue and dignity of ap- pearance as was not expected in those remote parts of th» world. He was received with discharges of cannons and every kind of music, with which he was so much delighted, that, desiring the musicians to come down into the boat, he wa» towed along in at the stern of the ship. The king having spent some time in admiring the multitude of new objects that presented themselves, retired as soon as the ship was brought to anchor, and promised to return on the day following; and in the mean time the inhabitants, having leave to traffic^ brought down provisions in great* abundance. Drake s< convenient being willi; king of Te modious ha repaired hi interruptior Leaving i towards the they were i with danger thought the strong gale, in their cour easily discovi the speed of ing. Here c dexterity wai the same, an his own abili The pump v The next place where the ship into that the rock from the wat to be found i covery, with from the com to despair, f< no prospect which must ii in attempting pieces by bar In the mid that the sacra fied with all «uaded them Vol. I. OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 225 Drake set sail on the 9th of November in quest of some convenient harbour, in a desart island, to refit his ship, not being willing, as it seems, to trust to the generosity of the king of Temate. Five days afterwards he found a very com- modious harbour in an island overgrown with wood, where he repaired his vessel and refreshed his men without danger or interruption. Leaving this place on the 12th of December, they sailed towards the Celebes ; but, having a wind not very favourable, they were detained among a multitude of islands, mingled with dangerous shallows, till January 9, 1580. When they thought themselves clear, and were sailing forward with a strong gale, they were at the beginning of the night surprized in their course with a sudden shock, of which the cause was easily discovered, for they were thrown upon a shoal, and by the speed of their course fixed too fast for any hope of escap- ing. Here even the intrepidity of Drake was shaken, and his dexterity was baffled ; but his piety, however, remained still the same, and what he could not now promise himself from his own ability, he hoped from the assistance of Providence. The pump was plied, and the ship found free from new leaks. The next attempt was to discover towards the sea somev place where they might fix their boat, and from thence drag the ship into deep water ; but upon examination it appeared that the rock, on which they had struck, rose perpendicularly from the water, and there was no anchorage, nor any bottom to be found at a boat's length from the ship. But this disco- covery, with its consequences, was by Drake wisely concealed from the common sailors, lest they should abandon themi^elves to despair, for which there was, indeed, cause; therf being no prospect left but that they must there sink with the ship, which must undoubteclly be soon dashed to pieces, or perish in attempting to reach the shore in their boat, or be cut in pieces by barbarians if they should arrive at the land. In the midst of this perplexity and distress, Drake directed that the sacrament should be administered, and his men. forti- fied with all the consolation which religion affords ; then per- «uaded them to lighten the vessel by throwing into the sea Vol. I. ^ F •i;;K- rhuv- i '.i' i. hif. t- M< ll ';ri', 226* VOYAGES AND ADVENTURES part of tlieir lading, which was clieertully compHed with, but without effect. At length, when tlieir hopes had forsaken them, and no new struggles could be made, they werr on a sudden relieved by a remission of the wind, which, having hitherto blown strongly against the side of the ship which lay towards the sea, held it upright against the rock ; but when the blast slackened (being then low water,) the ship lying higher with that pai't which rested on the rock than with the other, and being l)orne up no longer by the wind, reeled into the deep water, to the surprize and joy of Drake and his companions. This was the greatest and most inextricable distress which they had ever suffered, and made such an impression upon their minds, that for some time afterwards they durst not venture to spread their sails, but went slowly forward with the utmost circumspection. They thus continued their course without any observable occiu'rence, till on the 11th of March they came to anchor before the island of Java, and, sending to the king a present of cloths and silks, received from him, in return, a large quantity of provisions; and the day following Drake went himself on shore, and entertained the king with his music, and obtained leave to store his ship with provisions. The island is governed by a great number of petty kings, or rajas, subordinate to one chief; of thejc princes three came n board together a few days after their arrival ; and, having on their return recounted the wonders which they had seen, and the civility with which they had been treated, incited others to satisfy their curiosity in the same manner ; and raja Donan, the chief king, came himself to view the ship, with the warlike armainents and instruments of navigation. This intercourse of civilities somewhat retarded the business for which they came ; but at length they not only victualled their ship, but cleansed the bottom, which, in the long course, was overgrown with a kind of shell-fish that impeded her passage. Leavi'ig Java on the 26th of March, they sailed homewards by the cape of Good Hoi)e, which they saw on June the 6th : OP SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 227 on the 15th of August passed the tropic ; and on the 26th of September arrived at Plymouth, where they found that, by passing through so many different climates, they had lost a day in their account of time, it being Sunday by their journal, but Monday by the general computation. In this hazardous voyage they had spent two years, ten months, and some odd days ; but were recompensed for their toils by great riches, and the universal applause of their coun- trymen. Drake afterwards brought his ship up to Deptford, where queen Elizabeth visited him on board his ship, and conferred the honour of knighthood upon him ; an honour in that illustrious reign not made cheap by prostitution, nor even bestowed without uncommon merit. It is not necessary to give an account equally particular of the remaining part of his life, as he was no longer a private man, but engaged in public affairs, and associated in his ex- peditions with other generals, whose attempts, and the success of them, are related in the histories of those times. In 1585, on the 12th of September, Sir Francis Drake set sail from Plymouth with a fleet of 25 ships and pinnaces, of which himself was admiral, captain Martin Forbisher vice- admiral, and captain Francis Knollis rear-admiral ; they were fitted out to cruize against the Spaniards; and having touched at the isle of Bayonne and plundered Vigo, put to sea again, and on the 16th of November arrived before St. Jago, which they entered without resistance, and rested there 14 days, visiting iu the meantime San Domingo, a town within the land, which they found Ukewise deserted ; and, carrying off what they pleased of the produce of the island, they at their departure destroyed the town and villages, in revenge of the murder of one of their boys, whose body they found mar -^-led in a most inhuman manner. From this island they pursued their voyage to the West Indies, determining to attack St. Domingo, in Hispaniola, as the richest place in that part of the world : they therefore landed 1,000 men, and with smtill loss entered the town, of which they kept possesion for a month without intemiption '• i; ■I M \ ! '{','■>' r ' , 1: \r "r.u I .^i, Shfil ^;t [Ki^m l.|:|l| \ i' I i'i.'Mii,:.,. 228 VOYAGES AND ADVENTURES or alarm; during which a remarkable accident happened which deserves to be related. Drake, having some intention of treating with the Spaniards, sent to them a negro-boy with a flag of truce, which one of the Spaniards so little regarded, that he stabbed him through the body with a lance. The boy, notwithstanding his wound, came back to the general, related the treatment he had found, and died in his sight. Drake was so incensed at this outrage, that he ordered two friars, then his prisoners, to be conveyed with a guard to the place where the crime was committed, and hanged up in the sight of the Spaniards, declaring that two Spanish prisoners should undergo the same death every day, till the offender should be delivered up by them : they were too well acquainted with the character of Drake not to bring him on the day following, when, to impress the shame of such actions more effectually upon them, he compelled them to execute him with their own hands. Of this town, at their departure, they demolished part, and admitted the rest to be ransomed for 25,000 ducats. From thence they sailed to Carthagena, where the enemy having received intelligence of the fate of St. Domingo, had strengthened their fortifications, and prepared to defend them, selves with great obstinacy ; but the English, landing in the night, came upon them by a way which they did not suspect, and being better armed, partly by surprize, and partly by superiority of order and valour, became masters of the place, where they staid without fear or danger six weaks, and at their departure received 110,000 ducats, for the ransom of the town. They afterwards took St. Augustan, and touching at Vir- ginia took on board the governor, Mr. Lane, with the English that had been left there the year before by Sir Waiter Raleigh, and arrived at Portsmouth on July 28, 1586, having lost in the voyage 750 men. The gain of this expedition amounted to 60,000/. of which 40,000/. were the share of the adventurers who fitted out the ships, and the rest, distributed among the several crews, amounted to 61. each man. So cheaply is life sometimes hazarded ! OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. SS9 The transactions against the Armada, 1588, are in them- selves far more memorable, but less necessary to be recited in this succinct narrative ; only let it be remembered, that the post of vice-admiral of England, to which Sir Francis Drake was then raised, is b sufficient proof, that no obscurity of birth, or meanness of fortune, is insurmountable to bravery and diligence. In 1595, Sir Francis Drake and Sir John Hawkins were sent with a fleet to the West Indies, which expedition was only memorable for the destruction of Nombre de Dios, and the death of the two commanders, of whom Sir Francis Drake died January 9, 1597, and was thrown into the sea in a leaden coffin, with all the pomp of naval obsequies. It is reported by some that the ill success of the expedition hastened his death. Upon what this conjecture is grounded does not ap- pear ; and we may be allowed to hope, for ^le honour of so great a man, that it is without foundation ; and that he, whom no series of success could ever betray to vanity or negligence, could have supported a change of fortune without impatience or dejection. iMiL mi ' W"^ NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. By Captain J, G. Stedman. 6 'pHIS narrative,' says the author, ' is, perhaps, one of the most singular productions ever offered to the pubUc- Here, in the different characters of a commander — a rebel ne- gro — a planter, and a slave — not only is tyranny exposed, but benevolence and humanity are unveiled to the naked eye.' The author served in the British navy previous to the American war; but, having small hopes of preferment in time of peace, he accepted an ensign's commission in one of the Scotch brigade regiments in the pay of Holland. Shortly after, an expedition was prepared to quell a formidable insur- rection of the negro-slaves in Dutch Guiana, which he offered to join as a volunteer, and was in consequence advanced to the rank of captain, under colonel Louis Henry Fourgeoud, a Swiss gentleman, from the Alpine mountains, who was ap- pointed commander-in-chief This armament sailed from the Texel on Christmas-day, 1772, and consistejd of the Boreas and Westellingwerf men-of- war, and three frigates, having on board 500 fine young men, embodied as a regiment of marines. But we shall give the most important parts of this highly-inlc-esting narrative in the adventurer's own lively and picturesque language. STEDMAN^S NARRATIVE, &c. 231 * On the 14th of January, 1773, in the morning-watch, we passed the tropic, when the usual ceremony of ducking the fresh-water sailors was ransomed by tipping the foremast men with some silver. About this time the Boreas most un- luckily lost one of her best seamen, the lx)astwain''s mate, whose hand slipping by the wet, he pitched from the fore- yard-arm into the sq^. His presence of mind in calling to the captain, as he floated alongside, " Be not alarmed for me, sir,^ in the confidence of meeting with relief, attracted pecu- liar compassion, and even caused some murmuring, as no assistance was offered him; in consequence of which, after swimming a considerable time within view, the unfortunate young man went to the bottom. * Our progress was now daily marked by increasing warm weather, which released me from the confinement of a dis- agreeable cabin crowded with officers, most of whom had never been at sea, and enabled me to pursue my favourite amusements, whether reading above deck, or exercise in the rigging. Thus circumstanced, I, on the 17th, had the hap- piness of rendering a most important service to one of our young officers, a Mr. du Moulin, who by a sudden roll of the vessel was actually thrown over the gunwale ; at that moment happening to stand without-board in the main-chains, I for- tunately grasped hold of him in his fall, which saved him, (as he could not swim,) from inevitable death. The entrance into warmer regions gave occasion to an observation perhaps not generally known, which (though uncouth) must be of great importance to sailors ; namely, that between the tropica, while vermin may remain in the head, none can possibly con- tinue to exist in the bedding, clothes, linen, &c. ' The two following days it blew very fresh, and heavy seas washed over the vessel ; during which, while helping to put a reef in the main-top-sail for a little exercise, I lost every one of my keys, which dropped from the yard-arm into the sea. This trifling accident I should never have related, had it not proved a very great inconvenience, by debarring me from coming at my private property, particularly since the whole ship^s company, officers included, lived aa salt provision i'.'t m = .1 m W:-^ I ■• +„ii,< .•'0 Si.i't'^i 232 STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OF alone, a pig and a couple of lean sheep excepted, whose legs had been broken by the rolling and pitching of the vessel. This manner of living on salt-beef, pork, and pi>use, like common sailors, was introduced by our commander-rn-chief, in order to enure us (he said) to such food as we were likely to be alone supplied with in the woods of Surinam ; and from the generous motive of regaling his American friends with European refreshments — si ch as live sheep, hogs, fowls, ducks, bacon hams, bullocks tongues, preserved vegetables, pickles, spices, &c. all of which were provided by the town of Amsterdam in great profusion. But good intentions do not always meet with their rewards; since the xvorms^ without any one's permission, laid hold of the greatest part of the dead gtock for themselves ; who were, for a punishment, together with their plunder, thrown overboard into the ocean. Let me add, that instead of plate, our meals were frequently served up in small wooden tubs of not the most cleanly ap- pearance, and only once a day ; which negligence, however, I am wiUing to impute to Monsieur Laurant, the colonePs French valet-de-chambre. In short, the sr vy and other loathsome disorders began to make their a' ance ; dejec- tion and low-spirits took place throughout the ship, while I complained aloud, and from that moment date the good-mil which colonel Fourgeoud manifested towards me in particular, as will be seen throughout the expedition. ' On the 2d of February we entered the beautiful river Su- rinam; and at three o'clock, P. M. dropped anchor before the new fortress called Amsterdam. Our ships crews now were in the highest flow of spirits, seeing themselves surroimded by the most delightful verdure, while the river seemed alive by the many boats and barges passing and re-passing to see us, while groups of naked boys and girls were promiscu- ously playing and flouncing, Uke so many tritons and mer- maids, in the water. The scene was new to all, and notiiing was heard but music, singing, and cheering on deck, as well as in the rig^ng, from the ideas of happiness which each in- dividual now promised himself in this luxuriant flourishing 9pot, while between decks the heat was become insupportable: hut hoi reckonii 'Im delicious iragranci over fror the river charming by colone being the vessels wi number w long-boat, t« Parama tK)ops in ti * During walked on i but the plej the confinei licious couni itself after only coverij] «kin, was Ja< The crime v of tyranny, was apparen ceive 200 las sevei-al yard her ancle, ai lOOlbs. * On Marc of the Societj by a number the colony. compliment ir excellent fruii elegant barge Voi. I, AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. SS$ but how miserably these poor fellows were mistaken in tlieir reckoning shall soon be seen. ' I must indeed acknowledge that nothing could equal the delicious sensations with which we seemed intoxicated by the fragrance of the lemons, limes, oranges, and flowers, wafted over from the adjoining plantations that line the banks of all the rivers in tliis ever-blooming settlement, and of which charming fruit, &c. large clusters were sent on board our ships by colonel de Ponchera of the colonial troops: this gentleman, being the commandant of fort Amsterdam, also saluted the vessels with nine gims from the batteries, while with an equal number we returned him the compliment from the ships. A long-boat, with one of our captains, was afterwards dispatched to Paramaribo, to announce to the governor the arrival of the troops in the colony. * During our stay in this place the companies frequently walked on shore, and I accompanied them in their excursions ; but the pleasure I had flattered myself with, from exchanging the confinement of a ship for th liberty of ranging over a de- licious country, was damped by the first object which presented itself after my landing. This was a young female slave, whose only covering was a rag tied round her loins, which, like her skin, was lacerated in several places by the stroke of the whip. The crime which had been committed by this miserable victim of tyranny, was the non-performance of a task to which she was apparently unequal, for which she was sentenced to re- ceive 200 lashes, and to drag, during some months, a chain seveval yards in length, one end of which was locked round her ancle, and to the other Avas affixed a weight of at least lOOlbs. ' On March the 3d we received a visit from several officers of the Society, or West India company's troops, accompanied by a number of other gentlemen, to welcome our arrival in the colony. Nor were they satisfied with paying us merely a compliment in words, but regaled us with a large quantity of excellent fruits and other refreshments. They came in very elegant barges or tent-boats, adorned with flags, and attended Vol. L ^ G , *'l(|l \ 'SS4 STfeDi\iA>rS NAilRATlV^ OF by sittiftll bands of rtitisKr. The vessels were vowed by six or ci^Iit Jiegrocs, who were eiuiri'ly \vithoi>t clothes, except a small stri|)e of iheck Or t)thcr Tim^n cloth, which was passed between their thighs, aind fasteribd before and behind to a thin cotton strinjr tied nuhid their loins. As the eolotiists ge- nerally miike choice of their handsomest slaves for this offlce, and to attend liietn at table, Sfc. the niwers, w-hv"» were liealtliy, yoiin*j;, and vifrorous, looking extremely well, arid their being- naked gave lis a fiill opportunity of observing their skins, which was shining, and nearly as black as ebony. This scene Was however contrasted l)y the arrival of tWo ctinoes filled with emnciated starving wTetehes, who clamorously solicited relief from the iH)ldiers, and were x'ehdy to fight fbr the possession oi' a bone. * Tlie day following, our commander-In-chie^f was visited by a Mr. Rynsdorp, who introduced to him two black soldiers, manumized slaves, who composed part of a corps of three hundred which had been lately formed. These men were exhibited by Mr. Kynsdorp as specimens of that valiarit body, ■which but a short time before had hiost gidlaiitly distinguished itself by the protection it had ilffordetl to the colony. 'While we still remained at anchor before the fortress Am- sterdam, I received a polite invitation frbm one Mr. Lolkens, a planter, to whom 1 hrtd been recoriimended, to accept tlu- use of his house and table on our arrival at Paramaribo, the ca}ntal of the colony. * On the 8th we once more went under May, and nOer t'lc usual ceremonies on both sides on» leaving the fortress, sailed up the river Surinam with drums beating, -colours flying, and a guard of marines drawn up on the (juarter-deck of each ves- sel. Having at length reached Paramaribo, we finally came to an anchor within pistol-shot of the shore, receiving a sjilutc of 11 guns from the citadel Zealandia, which was returned by all the ships of our small fleet. * After being confined rtearly Ihe whole of G3 days withit^ the limits of a small vessel, and u\k>i\ an element to which tew of the troops hail been accustomed, it would not be easy to describe tin raore p^ la CMmstj^ices. . * The to sliipping q: with the m utmost frag- an uncloude wooden habi disembarked shij)s in the i up an incessa * All the ii this splendid disappointed. (for we ha4 voyage) the and the who nnd in caps o paraded on a ik% opj)osite 1 which eerenu) J««it. The tr their reception hy the goveri relish from its so long been heighten our o] ties of America .served up ii» sil |)oured out wit most delicious considerable nu latto maids, all the custom of ti '^oiis arrayed ij adorned with g «\veet-sineiiing t\ AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. S35 describe the pleasure we exporiencecl on finding ourselves once more pa laiul^, and .surrouniled l>y a thousand :igreeablc cir- * Tlte town appeared uncommonly neat and plea:*ing, the shipping extremely beautiful, the atljacent wpods adorned with the most luxuriant verdure, tlie air perfumed with the utmost fragrance, and the whole scene gilded by the ruys of an unclouded sun. We did not however take leave o( our wooden habitutio'i at this time, but the next day were fornnilly disembarked with a general appearance of rejoicing ; all the ships in the roads being in full dro.s, and the guns kee})ing up an incessant fire till tlio whole of the troops were landed. * All the inhabitants of I'uramaribo were collected to behold this splendid scene, nor were the expectati«ms they had fonned disappointed. The coi'ps consisted »)f nearly 500 young men ; (for we had been so fortunate as only to lose one during the voyage) the oldest of whom was scarcely more than thirty, and the whole party neatly clothed in their now uniforms, and in caps orraniented with twigs of orange-blossom. We paraded on a large grcon plain between the town antl the cita- del, op|)osite to the governor''s palace; during the course of which ceremonies several soldiers fainted from the excessive heat. The lrion; the ti'^scrt wa.> composed of the most delicious fruits, and the c iiupany were attciulod by a considerable number of o\trer;';ly handsome negro .tnd mu- latto maids, all naked I'rom the waist u))war(ls, acconling to tile custom of tiie country ; but the other parts ol' tiieir per- sons arrayed in the finest J ulia chintzes, and the whole adorned with golden ^chains, medjils, beads, bracelets, and sweet-smelling flowers. (iii.ii ii^a;::.,. !;■! < |(|*Mii* ': l-=!-.r M :i S36 STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OF * After partaking of tliis syperb entertainment till about seven o'clock, I set out in search of the house of Mr. Lolkcns, the hospitable gentleman who had so obligingly invited me to make it my own. I soon discovered the place, but my recep- tion was so ludicrous that I cannot forbeai* relating the parti- ticulars. On knocking at the door, it was opened by a young female negro, of a masculine appearance, whose whole dress consisted of a single petticoat, and who held a lighted tobacco- pipe in one hand, and a burning candle in the other, which she brought close to my face, in order to reconnoitre me. I enquired if her master was at home, to which she replied, but in a language totally unintelligible to mc. I then mentioned his name, on which she burst into an immoderate fit of laugh- ter, displaying two rows of very beautiful teeth ; and at the same time, laying hold of the breast-buttons of my coat, she made me a signal to follow her. I was much at a loss how to act, but went in, and was ushered by the girl into a very neat apartment, whither she brought some excellent fruit, and a bottle of Madeira wine, which she placed upon the table. She then, in the best manner she was able, informed me that her maserOf with the rest of his family, was gone to spend a few days at his plantation, and that she was left behind to re- ceive an English captain, whom she supposed to be me. I signified that I was, and filled her out a tumbler of wine, which I had the utmost difficulty to persuade her to accept ; for such is the degrading light in which these unhappy beings are considered, that it is accounted a high degree of presump- i^ion in them to eat or drink in the presence of an European. I contrived for some time to carry on something like a conver- sation with this woman, but was soon glad to put an end to it by recurring to my bottle. * Tired with the employments of the day, I longed for some rest, and made a signal to my attendant that I wanted to sleep : but my motion was strangely misconstrued ; for she immediately seized me by the neck, and imprinted on my lips Q most ardent kiss. Heartily provoked at this unexpected, and (from one of her colour) unwelcome salutation, I disen- tangled myself from her embraces, and angrily flung into the Apartment pursued I could say, and in a nn I was extn office comi ranks and conceive tl from any p ■was only SI of female i visit the W whole dark * Finding not returnee ble servant; was conduci propriated ti though not < commission, night, I had was devourei * Having was tofiiinis rendered unr bitants; the and even plat tlemen bade cyder, rum i site fruits. * This day, live stock, su kies, we four first sailed frc poultry-yard n mortification < tables, &c. an AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 237 lipartment allotted for my place of rest. But here I was again pursued by my black tormentor, who, in opposition to all I could say, insisted upon pulling off my shoes and stockings, and in a moment disx^ncumbercd me of that part of my apparel. I was extremely chagrined at her conduct, though this is an office commonly performed by the slaves in Surinam to all ranks and sexes without exception. Nor ought any one to conceive that this apparently extraordinary conduct resulted from any peculiarity of disposition in the girl ; her behaviour «was only such as would have been practised by the gonerality of female negro slaves, and what will b^ found, by all who visit the West India settlements, to l^o characteristic of the whole dark sisterh<>rter, cyder, rum and sugar, besides a quantity of the most exqui- site fruits. * This day, on examining into the state of our remaining live stock, such as hogs, sheep, ducks, geese, fov Is. ad tur- kies, we fbimd them nearly as many in numbei when we first sailed from Holland : these were all sent to the colonel's poultry-yard at the head-quarters, while we had the additional mortification of seeing sixty large kegs >\ith presen-ed vege- tables, &c. and just as many fine Westphalia hams (being m hi ■i'i-l .u'U ^yi'i'H- 'i. t m !n| ' ■':, Jt3» STIIDMAN^ NARRATIVE OF periiectly rotten), thrown into the river Surinam to feed the slinrks. ^ I now observed, on the second morjujpg after our landing that my face, my breast, and hands were entirely spotted over like the skin of a. leopard, occasioned by n^yriads of gnats or musquitoes, which flying in clouds, had kept me company diu'ing the night, though the fatigue fironi my voyage, and the oppressive heat of the climate, hud sunk uie into so pro- found a sleep, tliat I was insensible of their stings, till I per- ceived the effects. These insects ai'e inconceivably numerous here during the rainy season, and particularly ou the bank* of creeks or rivers. None are secured from their attacks, but tliey peculiarly infect strangers in preference to the natives ; and wherever they insert then* proboscis, and remain unmo- lested, they suck the blood till they are scai'cely able to fly. Every puncture they make is succeeded by a large blotch, or rather tumour, accompanied with an itching, which is almost intolerable. The presence of the musquitoes is indicated by their buzzing noise, which alone is sufficient to make one sweat, and which is so very disagreeable to tiiose who have suffered from their stings, as to have obtained for them tlie name of the dcvirs, tj-umpctcrs. They ai'e indeed inconceiv- ably troublesome in every respect. The candles arc no sooner lighted ill an e* "''"^, tl.^:: tlitjy are stuck lull of them ; all kinds of food and drink are exponed to their disagreeable visits, Ironi which even the mouth and eyes are not exempted. ' The bt;st cure for their stings is an application of the juice of lemons or limes, mixed with water, which is also a tolerable preservative against their attacks. Immediately before shut- ting the M 'iidow tlie inhabitants commonly burn tobacco in their aparlments, the smoke of \.luch occasions them to fly about the room, when the negro girls unreservedly throw off their petticoats, which is the whole, of their covering, and running naked about the chamber, chase the gnats therewith out at the windows, or destroy them. The more delicate or hixurious amongst the natives still employ their slaves in fan- ning them during the whoie night, excepting such as have ^een gau lity of the wliich are ffom a tigl awning of these troul: We to be tl * There , musquitoes, painful ind( former, the and are con ' On the a black gir] Would be i gravely pres pleased to t as to reject t accompanied with Avhich 'with ev^ry j The girls he are sometime groes. The\ European, w deniess and f ones who brci women of thii iiected in any Up in a state c ed, that while ner by whom cncburaged b) this a lawful t of this custott however follow «ver, reftising AN ^EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 9m green gauze doors to their beds or pavilions ; but the genera- lity of the people in Surinam sleep in rootny cotton hammocks, which are covered with a very large thin sheet, suspended from a tight line immediately Over them, something like the awning of a ship, which serves in some measure to keep off these troublesome insects, and the Vant of which had exposed nte to be thus stung all over. * There are also in Surinam a still larger species of gnats ot inusquitoes, called marvkers, the stings of which arc extremely paiuful indeed ; but as they are much less numerous than the former, they arc not nearly so troublesome to the inhabitants, and are consequently less remarked.— -—But to proceed: ' On the morning of the 22d, an elderly negro-woman, with a black girl about fourteen, entering into my apartment, it would be difficult to express my astonishment, when she gravely presentetl me her daughter, to become what she was pleased to term my wife. I had so little gallantry, however, as to reject the Offer with a loud laugh ; but at the same time accompanied the refusal with a small but welcome present, with which they appeared perfectly satisfied, and departed with ev^ry possible demonstration of gratitude and respect. The girls here, who voluntarily enter into these connections, are sometimes mulattoes, sometimes Indians, and often ne- groes. They all exult in the circumstance of living with an European, whom in general they serve with the utmost ten- derness and fidelity, and tacitly reprove those nujuerous^^rir- ones who break through ties more sacred and solemn. Young women of this description cannot indeed be married, or con- nected in any other way, as most of them are bom or trained np in a state cf slavery ; and so little is the practice coiidemn- ed, that while th*»y continue faithful and constant to the part- ner by whom they are chosen, tlicy are countenanced and encouraged by their nearest relations and friends, who call this a lawful marriage, nay even the clergy avail themselves of this custom. Many of the sable-coloured beauties will however follow their own pcncliant ^^ itliout any restraint what- ever, revising with contempt the golden bribes of some, while ;! , • I ■ i;i' '>'m |.,'"i "« .irv,; (i#|ijiii \ ! ft40 STEDMAN^S NARRATIVE OF on others tlioy bestow their favours for a dram or a broken tobiux*o-pipe, if not lor nothing. * The hospittthty I had experienced on our first arrival in the colony was not confined to that time only : I had a general invitation to visit, besides his excellency the governor, and colonel Texier, the commandant, in more than twenty res^icc- table iiimilios, whenever it suited my convenience; so tiial, tliough the officers of our corps had formed a regimental mess, I had seldom the honour of their company. One gentleman, a Mr. Kennedy, in particular, carried his juiliteness so far, as not only to offer me the use of his carriage, saddle-horses, and table, but even to present me with a fine negro lM)y, named Quaco, to carry my umbrella as long as I remiuned in Suri- nam. The other gentlemen of the regiment also met with great civilities, and the whole colony seemed anxious to testify their respect, by vying with each other in a constant round of festivity. Balls, concerts, card-assemblies, and every species of amusement in their power, were constantly a)ntrived for our entertainment. The spirit of conviviality next reached on boiu'd the men-of-war, where we entertained the ladies with cold su[)pers and dancing ujHjn the cjuarter-deck, under an awning, till six in the morning, generally concluding the frolic by a cavalcade, or an airing in their carrii^es. This constant routine of dissipation, which was rendered still more pernicious by the enervating elfects of an intensely hot climate, where one is in a perpetual state of perspiration, already threatened to become J'atal to two or three of our officers. Warned by their examj^lo, I retired from all public companies, sensible that by such means I could alone preserve my health, in a country which has such a tendency to debilitate the human frame, that an European, however cautious to avoid excesses, has always reason to apprehend its dreadful effects. * Dissipation and luxury appeal* to be congenial to the inha- bitants of this climate, and great numbers must annually fail victims to their very destructive influence. Their fatal conse- quences are indeed too visible in the men, who have indulged themselves in inteiQpcrance and otlier sensual gratifications; and who do the gt appearaui and tlic si This is h( quaintcd freshness i for the pri the numbc ionists in and mulati cleanliness, husbands i meet from early perioi privilege h< better jiarti indeed is t compared t their excessi who have I country wh( * The lat becoming pa in the expec their success hatred and tl their partner with giving i towards thoj which occasic colony, that instinctive pr« tiaJity is inde* apparent and •ary to prever rally excite, p nay, it was ev Vol. I.— (1 AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 241 Aiul who appear withered and enervated in the extreme ; nor do the generaUty uf the ('rcole females exhibit a more alluring apf Ktarance ; they are languid, tlieir conii)lexionB are sallow, and U^e skin even of the young ladies is frequently shrivelled. This is however not the case with all ; and I have iK'en ac- quainted with some who, preserving a glow of healtli and freshness in their lovely countcnant^e, were entitled to contend ior the j)rize of beauty with the fairest European. But, alas ! the numbers of this last description are so small, that the co- lonists in their amours most ustially prefer the Indian negro and mulatto girls, particularly tm account of their remarkable cleanliness, health, and vivacity. For the excesses of the husbands in this respect, and the marked neglect which they meet from them, the Creole ladies most commonly, at a very early period, appear in mourning weeds, with the agreeable privilege however of making another choice, in the hofics of a better jmrtncr; nor are they l(>ng without another mate. Such indeed is the superior longevity of the females of Suriniun, compared to that of the males (owing chiefly, as I said, to their excesses of all sorts) that I have frequently known wives who have buried four husbands, but never a man in this country who had survived two wives. * The ladies do not, however, always bear with the most becoming patience the slights and insults they thus meet with, in the expectation of a sudden release, but mostly persecute their successful sable rivals (even to suspicion) with implacable hatred and the most unrelenting barbarity ; while they chastise their partners not only with a shew of ineffable contempt, but with giving in public die most unequivocal marks of preference towards those gentlemen who newly arrive from Europe ; which occasioned the trite proverb and observation in the colony, that the tropical ladies and the musquitoes have an instinctive preference for a newly-landed European : this par- tiality is indeed so very extreme, and the proofs of it so very apparent and nauseous, that some command of temper is neces- sary to prevent the disgust which such behaviour must natu- rally excite, particularly where the object is not very inviting ; nay, it was even publicly reported at Paramaribo, that two of ^ Vol. I.— (11) 2 H 51' . ♦•■!M ■(. iff Wyi 'i'^'i ii!,;-: 242 STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OF these tropical Amazons had fought a duel for the sake of one of our officers.'' Considerable animosity seems to have subj*sted between the governor and colonel Fourgeoud ; and, after some time, the former requested the latter to quit the colony with his marines, as the rebel negroes appeared very tranquil. The inhabitants, however, remonstrated against this order ; in consequence of which the departure of the troops was delayed. This circum- stance determined captain Stedman to write some account of this wonderful country, and which he has executed in a style equally amusing and, instructing. Guiana, by some called the Wild Coast, was discovered by the Spaniards, in 1504. It is situated under the torrid zone, in the N. E. part of South America, mid is above 1,420 miles of length, and 790 in breadth. The heat is tempered by the cooling breezes from the sea ; and the seasons, as in other hot countries, are divided into wet and dry. The un- cultivated parts are covered with immense forests, rocks, and mounttuns; but, Surinam being peculiarly low and marshy, the rains and warmth impart to vegetation a most wonderful strength and richness. The Spanish, Portuguese, and Dutch were the only nations which possessed settlements in this part of Terra Firma, excepting the small r ^ony of Cayenne be- longing to the French ; but the Dutch settlements, reaching from cape Nassau to the river Marawina, and including Esse- quibo, Demerary, Berbice, and Surinam, are now united to the British empire. Guiana, after being seen by some of the early Spanish na- vigators, was, in 1595, visited by Sir Walter Raleigh, who sailed up the river Oronoque above 600 miles, in hopes of discovering the gold-mines of the supposed El Dorado. In 1634, a captiun Marshall with above 60 English, were disco- vered in Surinam employed in planting tobacco. These were succeeded by the French, who being destroyed by the Carib- beans, Francis, lord Willoughby, by king Charles II. per- mission, re^KCupied the colony, and under whose auspices it was successfully cultivated. When the Dutch were driven fcom the Brazils by the Portuguese, they took this colony STEJUSMAC^S ATiDOOTT OV Sllin\M, from the squadror king Cht The I cruelty tc the wood 1726, bei enabled t revenge, i In 173C of the unl pectation i them to su by an iroi chained to women wei decapitated that they ei These cri were M\om sued for pea war in whic when a bodj nearly given were comma erected a stn sea-coast. I weeks, until planters) by i to think, imp discovered to nication to B execution of i The regula on one side, j tress, drew Ba defence; while EXEcrTiasroFAZf^cffio isr jShbisam. /\,lliJmHrJ6,aiiHmi, SelUmt. AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. S43 from the English ; and though it was re-taken by an English squadron, it was ceded to the Dutch in 1669) by an order of king Charles. The Dutch have always been infamously notorious for their cruelty to their slaves. The negroes who had taken refuge in the woods of Surinam from their inhuman masters, about 17S6, began to increase in numbers and boldness, and were enabled to commit several outrages, as well from a spirit of revenge, as with a view to obtain subsistence and arms. In 1730, a most shocking and barbarous execution of eleven of the unhappy negro captives was resolved upon, in the ex- pectation that it might terrify their companions, and induce them to submit. One man was hanged alive upon a gibbet, by an iron hook stuck through his ribs; two others were chained to stakes, and burnt to death by a slow fire. Six women were broken alive upon the rack, and two girls were decapitated. Such was their resolution under these tortures, that they endured them without even uttering a sigh. These cruelties failed in producing the intended effect, and were followed by an act of bad policy, whereby the colonists sued for peace from their slaves. Intervals of peace succeeded war in which thencgroes were generally successful, until 1772, when a body of new revoltcrs, named the Cottica rebels, had nearly ^ven the finishing blow to Surinam. These negroes were commanded by a desperate fellow named Baron, who erected a strong settlement between the river Cottica and the sea-coast. Here lie was unsuccessfully besieged for several weeks, until the rangers (a Negro corps employed by the planters) by their indefatigable efforts, and, however strange to think, implacable enmity against the rebels, found out and discovered to the Europeans the under-water paths of commu- nication to Boucon, several being shot and drowned in the execution of this important service. The regulars, on this intelligence, now forded the swamp on one side, and instantly making a feint attack on the for- tress, drew Baron with all the rebels, as was expected, to its defence ; while the rangers, having crossed the swamp on the 1 li'; ' ; ) !M l\ 'I 1 'it;ilr' ■■ . i i-'(ii* ■', I* S44 STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OF other side, embraced the opportunity of leaping over the palU sadoes, sword in hand, witliout opposition. A most terrible carnage at thiA time ensued, while several prisoners were made on both sides, and the fortress of Boucon was taken; but Baron, with the greatest number of the rebels, escaped into the woods, having first found means, however, to cut the throats of ten or twelve of the rangers, who had lost their way in the marsh, and whom he seized as they stuck fast in the swamp ; and cutting off the ears, nose, and lips of one of them, he left him alive in this ( jndition to return to his friends, with whom however the miserable man soon expired. Such was the state of affairs when captain Stedman landed in Guiana, * As a contrast to tlie preceding scenes of horror,' saxs our author. * I will present to the reader a description of the beau- tiful mulatto maid Joanna. This charming young woman I first saw at the house of a Mr. Demelly, secretary to the court of policy, where I daily breakfasted ; and with whose lady Joanna, about 15 years of age, was a very remarkable favour- ite. Rather taller than the middle size, she was possessed of the most elegant shape that nature can exhibit, nio'/ing her well-formed limbs with more than common gracefulness. Her fade was full of native modesty, and the most distinguished sweetness ; her eyes, as black as ebony, were large and full of expression, bespeaking the goodness of her heart; with cheeks through which glowed, in spite of the darkness of her complexion, a beautiful tinge of vermil'ion, when gazed upon. Her nose was perfectly well formed, l ather small ; her lips a little prominent, which, when she spoke, discovered two re- gular rows of teeth, as white as mountiun snow ; her hair was a (dark brown inclining to black, forming a beautiful globe of small ringlets, ornamented with flowers and gold spangles. Round her neck, her arms, and her ancles, she wore gold chains, rings, and medals: while a shawl of India muslin, the end of which was negligently thrown over her polished shoulders, gracefully covered part of her lovely bosom, a pet- ticoat of rich chintz alone completed her apparel. Bare-headed antl bare- in her deli with Nilve creatuie c( did indeed quire fi-om that appeal of her spec ' " She i sjiectable g« giri, four c pertyofalV upper part < • " Some above 1,000 his offspring an effect on that melancl discretion of Jonnna is tht * " The g< the gifts whi« woman towari her cast, rece with exemplai *"Mr. J). vag since drive Ws injustice ai the colony, an creditors; whi by his industrj His name is Jc tains, whom y cainp, breathin * In Suriiiam .-.U veiy, her ofFspring a, he obtains thejn by p AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. S45 M"ii' and, bare-footed, she shone with double lustre, as hIic carried in her delicate hand a beaver hat, the crown trimmed round with Hilver. The figure and appearance of this charming creature could not but attract my particular attention, as they did indeed that of all who beheld her ; and induced me to en- quire from Mrs. Demelly, with much surpri/e, who she was, that appeared to be so much distinguished above all others of of her species in the cr)lony. * " She is, sir," replied the lady, " the daughter of a re- 6))ectable gentleman, named Kruythoff ; who hod, besides this ^rl, four children by a black woman, called Cery, the pro- perty of a Mr. D. B. on his estate called Fauconberg, in the upper part of the river Comewina. * " Some few years since Mr. Kruythoff made the oflPer of above 1,000/. sterling to Mr. D. B. to obtain manumission for his offspring ; which being inhumanely refused, it had such an effect on his spirits, that he became frantic, and died in that melancholy state soon after; leaving in slavery, at the discretion of a tyrant, two boys and tliree fine girls, of whom Jonnna is the eldest.* * " The gold medals, &c. which seem to surprize you, are the gifts which her faithful mother, who is a most deserving woman towards her children, and of some consequence amongst her cast, received from the father (whom she ever attended with exemplary affection) just before he expired. ^ " Mr. I). B. however, met with his just reward ; for hav* ing since driven all his best carpenter negroes to the woods by his injustice and severity, he was ruined, and obliged to fly the colony, and leave his estate and stock to the disposal of his creditors ; while one of the unhappy deserters, a samboe^'f has by his industry been the protector of Cery and her children. His name is Jolycoeur, and he is now the first of Baron^s cap- tains, whom you may have a chance of meeting in the rebel camp, breathing revenge against the Christians, * In Suriiiam all siich children go with their mothers ; that is, if she is in sla« veiy, her offspring arc her master's property, should their father be a prince, unless he obtains them by purchase. ■{■ A minboc is between a mulatioc and a negra " I' ' ii ■■' m M- fM V •V -tV S46 STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OP * "Mrs. D. B. is still in Surinam, being arrested for, her husband^s debts, till Fauconberg shall be sold by execution to pay them. This lady now lodges ai my hou^e, where the unfortunate Joanna attends her, whom she treats with peculiar tenderness and distinction.'^ * Having thanked Mrs. Demelly for her account of J»)anna, id Wiiose eye ^flittered the precious pearl of sympathy, I took my leave, and went to my lodging in a state of sadness and i^tupefaction. However trifling and like the style t)f ro- mance, this relation may appear to some, :t is nevertheless a genuine account, and on that score I flatter myself may not entirely be uninteresting to others. ' When reflecting on the state of slavery altogether, while my ears were stunned with the clang of the whip, and the dis- mal yells of the wretched negroes on whom it was exercised, from morning till night ; and considering that this might one day be the fate of the unfortunate mulatto I have been describ- ing, should she chance to fall into the hands of a tyrannical master or mistress, I could not help execrating tlie barbarity of Mr. D. B. for having withheld her from a fond parent, who by bestcv/ing on her a decent education and some accomplish- ments, would probably have produced, in this tbrsaken plant, now exposed to every ruue blast without protection, an orna- ment to civilized society. * I became melancholy witli these reflections ; and in or(3er to counterbalance, thou£fh in a very small degree, the genciral calamity of the miserable s'aves who surrounded me, I began to take more delif^ht in the prattling of my poor negro boy Quacoo, than in all tne fashionable conversation of the polite inhabitants of this color^ , but my spirits were depressed, and in the space of 24 hours I was very ill indeed; when aa)rdial, ft few preserved tamarinds, and a basket of fine oranges, ^^ oio sent by an unknown person. This first contributed to my relief, and losing about 1^ ounces of blood, I recovered so far, that on the 5th of March I was able, for change of air, to acjompany a captain Macncyl, who gave me a pressing in- vitation to his beautiful coflec plantation, called Sporketgift, in the Matapr vU Cieek. AN EXPEDITION OF r>URIMAM. S47 * We now set out from Partmaribo v ir Sporkesgift, in a tenUboat or barge, rowed by eight, of the best negroes belong, ing to Mr. MacneyFs estate; every body travelling by water 111 this colony. ' These barges I cannot better describe than by comparing them with those that accompany what is usually styled the lord mayor's show on the river Thames. They are, however, somewhat less, though some: are very little interior in magni- ficence, and are often decorated with gilded flags, filled with musicians, and abound in every convenience. They are sometimes rowed by ten and even by twelve oars, and being lightly built, sweep along with astonishing celerity. The rowers never stop, from the moment they set out till tlie (f>m- pany is landed at the place of destination ; but continue, the tide ser\'ing or not, to tug night and day, sometinies for twen- ty-l'our hours together, singing a chorus all the time to keep up their spirits. When their labour is over, their nake:! bodies still dripping with sweat, like post-horses, they head- I mg, one and all, plunge into the river to refresh themselves. ' Mr. Macneyl at this time discharged his overseer, for hav- lii*; by his bad usage and cruelty caused the death of three or lour negroes ; but another instance throws a shade over the hiiinanity of this gentleman, which I should be guilty of par- lifJity did I not relate. ' Maving observed a handsome young negro walk very lumely, while the others were capering and dai:cing, I en- (juired into the cause of his cripple appearance ; w.ien I was liit'ornied by this gentleman, that the negro having repeatedly run away from his work, he had been obliges to hamstring l»ini, which operation is performed by cuttirg through the larijc tendon above one of the heels. However severe this Instance of despotism may appear, it is nothing when com- pared with some Ijarbarities which the task I have undertaken. will oblige me, at the expence of my feelings, to relate. * I afterwards made an excursion with a Mr. C. Ryndorp, who rowed me in his barge to five beautiful coffee estates, and one sugar plantation, in the Mattapaca, Paiamarica, and Werapa ik>i :t l. t^ STEDltfAN'S NARRATIVE OP creeks ; on one of which, called Schovnort, I was the witness to a scene of Imrbarity which I cannot help relating. • The victim of tliis cruelty was a line old negro slave, who having been as he thought undeservedly sentenced to rcrcive MMne hundred lashes by the lacerating whii«s of tivo negro- drivers, in the midst of the execution pulled out a knife, which, after having made a fruitless thrust at his persecutor the over- seer, he plunged up to the huft in his own Ixjwels, repeating the blow till he dropped down at the tyrant's feet. For this oime he was, being first recovered, condemned to l)e chained to tlie furnace which distils the kilUdivil (new rum), there to keep in the intense heat of a perpetual fire night and day, being blisl&red all over, till he should expire by infirmity or old ago, of the latter of which however he had but little chance, lie shewed me his wounds with a smile of contempt, wliich I returned with a sigh and a small donation : nor sliall I ever forget tlie miserable man, who, like Ceberus, was loaded with irons, and chained to everlasting torment. As for every thing else I observed in this little tour, I must acknowledge it to be elegant and splendid, and my reception hospitable beyond ray expectation; but these Elysian fields could not dissipate the gloom which the infernal furnace had left upon my mind. * I now took an opportunity to enquire of Mrs. Demelly what was become of the amiable Joanna ; and was informed that her lady, Mrs. D. B. had escaped tx) Holland on Ixiard the Boreas man-of-war, under the protection of captain Van- de-Velde, and that her young mulatto was now at the house of her aunt, a free woman, whence she expected hourly to be sent up to the estate Fauconberg, friendless, and at the mercy of some unprincipled overseer appointed by the creditors, who had now taken possession of the plantation and stock, till the whole should lie sold to pay the several sums due to them by Mr. D. B. — Good God !- -£ flew to the ^x>t in search of jjoor Joanna : I found hei* bathed in tears. — She gave me such a look — ah ! such a look ! — From that momatit I. eletennined to be her protector against every insult, and ^vi/tv^iffd, as shali be seen in with extre /belings w who deligh less and m' * I next pened to b< asking his i nation of pi from his si an interv^iei accompaniet my presence ' Reader, pleasure, th( not the histc be she who I in March, w modestly ack of compassioi cacy, howevc upon any ten a state shouk parted from world where t to the disadvf thus in either firmly persist! and return to treat of Mr. I she miglit at k slaves, and co humanity was * Abcjut this Jage, which re e»nployed. Tl our officers, bu fffectsofthecli Vol. I. AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. S49 be seen in the sequel. — Here, reader, let my youth, blended with extreme sensibility, plead my excuse ; yet assuredly my fbelings will be forgiven me — by those few only excepted who delight in the prudent conduct of Mr. Incle, to the hap- less and much-injured Yarico at Barbadoes. * I next ran to the house of my friend Lolkens, who hap- pened to be the administrator of the Fauconberg estate ; and asking his assistance, I intimated to him my strange determi- nation of purchasing and educating Joanna. Having recovered from his surprize, after gazing at me silently for some time, an interi^iew at once was proposed ; and the beauteous slave, accompanied by a femuie relation, was produced trembling in my presence. * Reader, if you have perused the tale of Lavinlaf with pleasure, though the scene admits of no comparison, reject not the history of Joanna with contempt.~It now proved to be she who had privately sent me the cordial and the oranges in March, when I was nearly expiring, and which she now modestly acknowledged " was in gratitude for my expressions of compassion respecting her sad situation;"" with singular deli- cacy, however, she rejected every proposal of bea)ming mine upon any terms. She was conscious, she said, " that in such a state should I soon return to Europe, she must either be parted from me for ever, or accompany me to a part of the world where the inferiority of her condition must prove greatly to the disadvantage of both herself and her benefactor, and thus in either case be miserable.'*'' In which sentiment Joanna firmly persisting, she was immediately permitted to withdraw, and return to the house of her aunt; while I could only in- treat of Mr. Lolkens his generous protection for her, and that she might at least for some time be separated from the other slaves, and continue at Paramaribo ; and in this request his humanity was induced to indulge me. * Ab(]tut this time the rangers discovered and attacked a vil- lage, which rendered it probable that we might Ije speedily employed. This had become extremely desirable, as not only our officers, but our privates, began to feel the debilitating effects of the climate, and many, of that continued debauchery Vol. I. 2 1 31' 1 ffl^rff, ;.|a I hftvci 41 soiUi I It^pe. not infturioc AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 251 to that of an European ; and blush not to avow the regard I retain for you, who have distinguished me so much above all others of my unhappy birth. You have, sir, pitied me ; and now, independent of every other thought, I shall have pride in throwing myself at your feet, till ftte shall part us, or my conduct become such as to ^ve you cause to banish me from your presence."^ * This was uttered with a downcast look, and tears drop- ping on her heaving Iwsom, while she held her companion by the hand. From that instant this excellent creature was mine ; — ^nor had I ever after cause to repent of the step I had taken, as will more particularly appear in the course of this narrative. * I cannot omit to record, that having purchased for her presents to the value of 20 guineas, I was the next day greatly astonished to see all my gold returned upon my table; the charming Joanna having carried every article back to the mer- diants, who cheerfully returned her the money. * ** Your generous sentiments alone, sir,*" she said, " were sufBcient ; but allow me to tell you, that I cannot help consi- dering any superfluous expence (m my account as a diminution of that good opinion which I hope you have, and will ever entertain, of my diiinterested disposition."''' ' Such was the language of a slave, who had simple nature only for her instructor, the purity of wliose sentiments stood in need of no comment, and these I was now determined to improve by every care. * I diall now only add, that a regard for her superior vir-^ tues, so singular amongst her cast^ gratitude for her ^ticular attention to me, and the pleasure of producing to the world »uch an accomplished character under the appearance of a dave, could alone embolden me to risk the censure of my readers, by intruding on them this subject: let this be my apology, and if it be acccptetl but by few, I shall not hi in- clined to complain. < In the evening I visited Mr. Demelly, who, with his lady, congratulated me on my recovery from sickness ; and at the nune time) however strange it may appear to many reader^ i^i ' I'll.,!' » 1 r -; !■ , ■ ' : ' 'I 1 .;,■; at- /' i ^1 <^ u fii lil^ 11 K i 85S STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OF they, witli a smile, wished me joy of what, with th*^' • usual good-humour, they were pleased to call my conquest ; which, one of the ladies in company assured me, while it was perhaps censured by some, was applauded by many, but she believed in her heart envied by all. — A decent wedding, at which many of our respectable friends made their appearance, and at which I was as happy as any bridegroom ever Avas, concluded the ceremony. * On the 21st of March, 1773, our lieutenant-colonel Lant- man died, and a number of our officers lay sick. The remain! of tlie deceased officer were interred with military honours, in tlie centre of the fortress Zcalandia, where all criminals are imprisoned, and all field officers buried. At this plac« I was not a little shocked, to see the captive rebel negroes and others clanking their chains, and roasting plantains and yams upon the sepulchres of the dead ; they presented to my imagination, the image of a number of diabolical fiends in the shape of African slaves, tormenting the souls of their European perse- cutors. From these gloomy man3ions of despair, on this day, seven captive negroes were selected, who being led by a few soldiers to the place of execution, which is in the Savannah, where the sailors and soldiers are interred, six were hanged, and one broken alive upon the rack, with an iron bar. * Having testified how much I was hurt at the cruelty of the above execution, and surprized at the intrepidity with which the negroes bore their punishment, a decent looking man stepped up to me, " Sir," said he, " you are but a new- comer from Europe, and know very little about the African slaves, or you would testify both less feeling and surprize. * " Not long ago, (continued he) I saw a black man sus- pended alive from a gallows, by the ribs, between which, with a knife, was first made an incision, and then chnched an iron hook with a chain ; in this manner he kept alive three days, hanging with his head and feet downwards, and catching with his tongue the drops of water (it being the rainy season) that were floating down his bloated breast. Notwithstanding all this he never complained, and even upbrmded a negro for crying while he ^as flogged below the gallows, by callipg Q\x\ IS ;|i" h* HAl.NSVOlllVS Act OVNTOF STDOMINCJO 3I01>E OF TaiAIISi:VG BXOOD HOUNDS. /iti/htJ^f'/ I? I MftcAf^/x/f A •/'tnf AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 253 to liim — You man? — De cayfasy? Are you a man? you behave like a boy. Shortly after which he was knocked on tilt' head by the commiserating sentry, who stood over him, Willi tlie butt end of liis musket. ' " Another negro, (said he,) I have s«eii quartered alive; who, after four strong horses were fastened to his legs and arms, and after having had iron sprigs driven home under- neath evorv one of his nails on hands and feet, without a iiii;tion, he first asked a dram, and then bid them pull away, witliout a groan ; but what afforded us the greatest entertain- ment, (continued he) were the fellow's jokes, by desiring the executioner to drink before him, in case there should chance to be poison in the glass, and bidding him take care of his horses, lest any of them should happen to strike backwards. As for old men being broken upon the rack, and young wo- men roasted alive chained to stakes, there can nothing be more common in this colony."" — I was petrified at the inhuman de- tail ; and breaking away with execrations from this diabolical scene of laceration, made the best of my way home to my own lodgings.'' Whenever the fugitive negroes attacked a plantation colonel Fourgeoud's troops were instantly prepared for service ; but, when the alarm subsided, they were ordered to leave the colo- ny. This state of unpleasant uncertainty was at last termi- nated, by the intelligence that an officer of the Society's troops had been shot dead by the rebels, and his whole party, con- sisting of about 30 men, entirely cut to pieces. By this time the marines from being a corps of the finest and healthiest young men that ever sailed from Europe, with ruddy fresh complexions, were now changed to the sallow colour of a drum-head. The civilities of the men, and the kindness of the ladies also, combined to render Surinam a real Capua to these brave fellows. * We now seriously prepared for victory or death, on board the wooden walls of the colony, which consisted of half a dozen crazy old sugar barges, such as are used by the colliers in the Thames, being only roofed over with boards, which gave thein the appearance of so many coffins ; and how well they n klL 'I! < 'f? I ^ SM ST£DMAN*S NAERATIVE OF desen'ed this name, I am afrud will too soon appear by thg number of men they buried. < It is a painful circumstance, that tlie narrative of my travels must so frequently prove the record of cruelty and barbarity: but once for all I muRt declare, that I state these facts merely in the hope that it may, in some mode or other, cerate for their future prevention. Before my departure, I vas informed of a most shocking instance of depravity, which had just occurred. A Jewess, impelled by a groundless jea- lously, (for such her husl)and made it appear) put an end to the life of a young and beautiful Quadroon ^irl, by the infer, nal means of plunging into her body a red-hot poker. But what is most incredible, and what indeed will s<:t:rcely be be- lieved in a civilized country, is, that for this most diabolical crime the murderess was only banished to the Jew-Savannah, a village which I shall afterwards descril)e, and condemned in a trifling fine to the fiscal or town-clerk o£ the colony. * Another young gro woman, having her ancles chained 80 close together that she could scarcely move her feet, was knocked down with a cane by a Jew, and beaten till the blood streamed out of her head, her arms, and her naked sides. So accustomed, indeed, are the people of this country to ty- ranny and insolence, that a third Israelite had the impudence to strike one of my sddiers, for having made water against his garden-fence. On this miscreant I took revenge for the whole fraternity, by wTesting the offending weapon out of his hand, which I instantly broke into a thousand pieces on his guilty naked pate. * In the evening, having entertained some select friends in my house, ! bade farewell to my Joanna, to whose care I lefl my all ; and herself to the protection of her mother and aunt, with my directions for putting her to school until my return : after which, I at last marched on board, with four subalterns, two seijeants, three corporals, and S2 men under my com- mand, to be divided into two barges, aiul bound for the upper part of the river Cottica. * The two barges were all armed with swivels, blunderbus- ses, ke* and provided with an allowance for one month : their AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. S55 orders were (that whicli went to the Jews Savannah excepted) to cruize up and down the uj^r parts of the rivers, each barge having a pilot, and rowed by negroc slaves, ten c£ which were on board of eacli for the purpose, and which made my complement, including ray black boy Quaco, exactly sixty, five, thirty-five of which embarked with myself. With thia ship^s company was I now ston ed in my hen-coop ; while on my lieutenar^'s bai'ge the crew contustcd of twenty-nine only, and consequently were less crowdctl. ' On the 1st of July we were going to be stationed where absolutely no kind of refreshment was to be had, being sur- rounded by the most horrid and impenetrable woods, beyond the hearing of a cannon-shot from any port or plantation what* This was not the case with the other barges, who were ever. stationed in the midst of peace and plenty, being within view of the most beautiful estates. We were indeed pitied by all ranks without exception ; who forseeing our approaching cala- mities, crowded my barge with the best commodities they had to present, which they insisted upon my accepting. * On the 3d of July, 1773, at 4 o'clock in the morning, the fleet cast off from their moorings, and ^vith the ebb tide rowed down as far as the fortress New Amsterdam, where, being wind and tide bound, we dropped andior off the battery. Having first reviewed both my ships' companies, stowed the luggage, and slung the hammocks, I perused my orders^ which were to cruize up and down Rio Cottica, between the Society posts. La Rochel at Patamaca, and Slans Welveren above the last plantation, to prevent the rebels from crossing the river, to seize or kill them if possible, and protect the estates from their invasions : in all whieh operations I was to be assisted, if necessaiy by tlie troops of the Society on the above posts, with whom I was also to deliberate on the proper ugnals to be given in case of an alarm. On the 4)th of July, in the morning, we weighed anchor;, Wkd having doubled the Cape, rowed with the flood till we itrrived before Ehzabeth's Hope, a beautiful cofl^ee plantation^ where tiie pvopn^ar, Mr. Klynhams, inviting us on ahore^ ibevfd us every cftvility in his poww, and loaded my barge irt: I m \ «56 STEDMAJTS NARRATIVE OF with refreshing fruits, vegetables, &c. He told us that, he pitied our situation from his heart, and foretold the miseries we were going to encounter, the rainy season being just at hand, or indeed having already commenced, by frc(|uent showers, accompanied with large claps of thunder. " As fur the enemy," said he, " you may depend on not seeing one tingle soul of them ; they know better than to make their ap pearance openly, while they may have a chance of seeing you from under cover : thus, sir, take care to be upon your guard ^but the climate, the cUmate will murder you all. How- ever," continued he, " this shews the the zeal of your com- mander, who will rather see you killed, than see you eat thj bread of idleness at Paramaribo." — This pleasant harangue he accompanied by a squeeze by the hand. We then took our leave, while the beautiful Mrs. Dutry, his daughter, shed tears at our departure. — This evening we anchored before the Matapaca creek. * I here created my two barges men of war, and named them the Charon and the Ceberus, by which names I shall distinguish them during the rest of the voyage ; though the Sudden Death and the Wilful Murder were much more ap- plicable, as will be seen. We now continued rowing up the river Cottica, having passed, since we entered Rio Comewi- na, some most enchantingly beautiful estates of coffee and sugar, which line tfie banks of both these rivers, at the dis- tance of one or two miles from each other. * We ag£un kept rowing upwards, and at length cast an- chor off the fort Slans Welveren, whit^; was guarded by the troops of the Society. Here I stepped on shore with my offi- cers, to wait on capUun Orzinga, the commander, and deli- vered three of my sick men into his hospital ; where I beheld such a spectacle of misery and wretchedness as baffles all ima- ^nation : this place having been formerly called DeviVs Har- war, on account of its intolerable unhealthiness. * Here I saw a few of the wounded wretches, who had escaped from the engagement in which lieutenant Lepper, with so many men, had been killed ; and one of them told me the particulars of his own miraculous escape :--.<< I ^s» shot, Mr,"* 81 •ist or fiave m^ ed, anc evening of his c •lain, in of their of lieute Sonde g The sun till to-m as I lay 4 lefWm, the fatal cover— I along wit] or six pris of whom ] It was vei creep out the forest, wounded in torment way to pro our subsist tamaca, en worms." * On the river, till moored the geoud's cor and clouds { had a most * On the Upper Pata with a long were never Vol. I. AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. ftS7 nr," sud he, " with a musket-ball in my breast ; and to re- mst or escape being impussible, as the only means left me to save my life I threw myself down among the mortally wound- ed, and the dead, without moving hand or foot. Here in the evening, the rebel chief, surveying his conquest, ordered one of his captains to begin instantly to cut off the head, of the •lain, in order to carry them home to their village, an trophies of their victory: this captMn, having already chopped off that of lieutenant Lepper, and one or two more, said to his friend, Sonde go sleebi/, caba mekewe liby den tara dogo toy tamara ; The sun is just going to sleep, we must leave thnsf- other dogs till to-morrow. Upon saying which (i Tirr.iued the soldier) as I lay on my bleeding breast, with my face resting on my left4U*m, he, dropping his hatchet into my shoulder, made the fatal wound you see, of which I shall perhaps no more re- cover.— I however lay quite still. They went away, canning along with them the mangled heads of my comrades, and five or nx prisoners alive, with their hands tied behind their backs, of whom I never since have heard. When all was quiet, and it was very dark, I found means, on my hands and feet, to creep out from among the carnage, and get under cover in the forest, wh^re I met another of our soldiers, who was less wounded than myself; with whom, after 10 days wandering, in torment and despiur, without bandages, not knowing which way to proceed, and only one single loaf of black bread for our subsistence, we at last arrived at the military post of Pa- tamaca, emaciated, and our putrefied wounds full of live worms." * On the following day we continued to row farther up the river, till we came before the Cormoetibo creek, where we mo(»red the fleet, as being my head station, by colonel Four- geoud^s command. Here we saw nothing but water, wooJ, and clouds ; no trace of humanity, and consequently the place had a most dismal, solitary appearance. * On the 10th I detached the Cerberus to her staticm, viz. Upper Patamaca; for which place she rowed immediately, with a long list cS paroles, according to my ;ig's beautiful poem upon health could avail in this situatioi! * We rowed down on the 20th, till we an ived before the Casepocre creek, in hopes of meeting sonic relief, but were equally uncomfortable. So very thick were musquiuv^s now, tliat by clapping my two hands together, i hiwc actually kilioH to the number of tliii-ty -eight at one stroke. * In rowing down at iiarbaciDcbo, we Siiw one or two beau- tiful snakes swim wross the riven In tlie course of our pro- gress we occasionaJly met witl) a little relief!, by stepping ashore imder tiie shade. I now had recourse t in the river. 'J'his, raassera, not only serves for exercise where 1 cannot walk, but keeps njy skin clean and cool ; mid the pores being open, I enjoy a free per- spiration. Without this, by iniperceptii)Je iilth, tJie jipres arc shut, the jiritoK stagnate, and disea.sa iau«t inevitably follow, " , Having recomp^nccd the old geiitlenian with a (kain, I in- stantly strijjped and piunged headlong into the riytr. I had, however, no sooner taken, thii* leap, than lie called to rae for Code's sake to come on board ; which having doskie with mucli astonishment, he reminded inu cf the alligators, as well as of, a fish which is here called pcri/. — " Botii tlicse, sir,", sajd he, ; " are exceedingly dangerous, but by following my diiXH-tions you will run no hazard. You may swim entirely naked, only take care that you constantly keep in motion ; for the moment you are quiet, you run the risk of their snapping oil' a limb, or being dnigg, d to the bottom."' * I acknowlcdgv^ his account at first discouraged me from the plan of daily bathing for health ; but finding by following his direction that the dangers lie represented were to be avoid- ed, I resolved to follow it, and derived great benefit from the m V ■ ffp *« 4 ih 360 STEDMAJTS NARRATIVE OF practice as long as I remained in the colony. This negro also advised me to walk bare-footed and thinly dressed. " Now is the season, massera,**^ said he, " to use your feet to become hardf by walking on the smooth boards of the vessel; the time may come when you will be obliged to do so for want of slioes, in the midst of thorns and briers, as I have seen some others. Custom,"" said he, '* raasscra, is second nature : our feet were all made alike. Do so as I advise you ; and in the end you will thank old Caramaca. As for being thinly dres- sed, a shirt and trowsers is quite sufficient ; which not only saves trouble and e:cpence, hut the body wants air, as well as it does water : so bathe in both when you have the oppcMtu.. nity.""--.From that momeiritt 1 followed his counsels, to whid», besides being cleanly and cool, I in a great measure ascribe the preservation of my life. I now frequently thought on Paramaribo, where I enjoyed all the delicacies of life ; while here I was forced to have recourse to many expedients mucli worse than aay savage ; yet should I not have repined had any person profited by our sufferings — But I am forgetting the articles of war, viz. implicitly to obey, and ask no ques- tions.'' Lieutenant Stromer of the Cerberus, with a serjeant and six privates, were sent sick to the hospital at Devifs F . ^vvar, and the whole party was in a miserable state, having, m) fresh meat, and the clothes and hammocks rotting from day to day. Captain Stedman's other officer Macdonald fell sick. Having no surgeon, some medicines were daily distributed to the men, who, loading their stomachs with heavy salt provisions, and using no exercise, had sometimes occasion for ai't to assist na- ture. But these briny meals of pork and beef, colonel Four- geoud insisted were much more wholesome food in a tropical country than fresh provisions; for, by a most curious theory, he asserted tni\t the latter corrupted the stomach by the heat, whereas the otiier underwent a proper digestion. Our author irives the followinff outlines of hi- commander's character. ' Colonel Fourgeoud was impetuous, passionate, self-suffi- cient, and revengeful: he was not cruel to individuals, but was a tyrant to the generality, and caused tlie death of hun* AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 261 drcds by his sordid avarice and oppression. With all this he was partial, ungi^tefiul, and confused ; but a most indefatiga- ble man in bearing hardships and in braving dangers, not exceeded by Columbus himself, which, like a true buccaneer, he sustained with the most heroic courage, patience, and per* severance. Though unconquerably harsh and severe to liis officers, he was however not wanting in affability to the private soldiers. He had read, but had no education to assist him in digesting what he read. In short, few men could talk better, but on most occasions few could act worse.* On the 9th of August, colonel Fourgeoud sent orders for Stedman^s party to continue in this forlorn station, accompa- nying the letter with a present of fish-hooks and tackle, to make up for the deficiency of other refreshments ; and, in- deed, the salt provisions were daily growing both worse and less. The men by the constant use of unwholesome food, and the incessant attacks of myriads of kisects, were covered with ulcere, and were, with difficulty, restruned from break- ing out into a state of mutiny ; and, to add to the difficulties of his situation, our author himself was at last attacked with a fever. * On tlie 23d,* continues he, * I felt myself rather better ; and between tht; fits of the fever siiot a couple of large black monkles to mrJce some broth, to supply the want of fresh pro- visions ; bat as the destruction of one of these animals was attended wi ih such circumstances, as for ever after had almost deterred me from going a monkey-hunting, I must beg leave to relate them as they happened :— Seeing mc on the side of the river in the canoe, the creature made a halt from skipping after his companions, and being perched on a branch that hung over the water, examined me with attention, and the strongest marks of curiosity : no doubt, taking mc for a giant of his own species ; while he chattered prodigiously, and kept dancing and shaking the bougli on which he rested with incre- dible strength and agility. At this time I laid my pie<'e to my shoulder, and brought him down from thi> trix; into the stream ; — but may I never again W a witness to such a scene ! The miserablf auinial wa.s not dead, but mortally wounded. il^ii ill -.J :,^-\: i 362 STEDMAN\S NARRATIVE OF I seized Iiim by the tail, aiid takinf? it in both my hands tt> end his tomient, I swung him round, and hit his head against the side of the canoe ; but the poor creature still continued olive, and looking at me in the most affecting manner that can be conceived, I knew no other means to end this murder, tlian to hold him under water till he was drowned, while my heart felt sick on his account : for Iiis dying httlc eyes still continued to follow me with seeming reproach, till their light gradually forsook them, and the wretched animal expired. I felt so much on this (Kcasion, that I could neither taste of him nor his companion, when they were dressed, though I saw that they afforded to some others a delicious repast. * That monkies, especially when young, am no bad food, may easily be accounted for, since they feed on nothing but fi-uit, nuts, eggs, young birds, &c. , and indeed, in my opi- nion, all young quadrupeds are eatable : but when one com- pares those which are killed in the woods to those filthy and disgusting creatures that disgrace the streets, no wonder that they should disgust the least delicate stomach. As for the wild ones, I have eaten them boiled, roasted, and steweil, and found their flesh white, juicy, and g(X)d : the only thing that disgusted me was, their hands and their heads, which when dressetl, being deprived of the skin, appeared like the hands and the skull of a young infant. * I had before killed some of a beautiful species, and very delicate when dressed ; they are called the keesee-keesee by the inhabitants, are about the size of a rabbit, and most astonish- ingly nimble. The colour of their body is reddish, and the tail, which is long, is black at tlie extremity ; but the fore-feet are orange colour. The head is very round, the face milk white, with a round black patch in the middle, in which flxe the mouth and the nostrils; and this disposition of the features give it the appearance of a mask : tlie eyes are black, and re- markably lively. These monkies we saw daily pin . long tliC sides of the river, skipping from tree to tree, but mostly about mid-day, and in very numerous bodies, regularly following each other like a little army, with their young ones on their backs, not urJike little knapsacks. Their manner of travel '»ng is thu irom whic next tree, w^onderiul aim: the o ^ittie ones follow their est seeming climbing u^ parts of tile a Wanner as anchor, i^] fond creatur( when it wear is remarkable pronounces p easiiy tamed, <^ns, which 1 ' I was, on to sit up in m\ «ow lay, cryil poor lad Jiinjse to send three tunes often en the melancholy «Jead, having « Alica, wliere h who had since ^ no better was n. ^ever I now lay, « friend to com except what the ty boiling a littl the reader may ^>e very evening, to threaten our ( <=olonel, tocome. ^'^We I was a J AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. «68 ling is thus : the foremost wtilks to the extremity of a bough, from which it bounds to the extremity of one belosiging to the next tree, often at a most astonishing distance, and with such wonderful activity and precision, that it never once misses its aim : the others one by one, and even the iemales, with their httle ones erform the same leap with the great- est seeming facility and safety : they are also remarkable for climbing up the ncbees or natural ropes, with which many parts of the forest are interwoven. The nebees grow in such a manner as to aHbrd tlie appearance at flrst sight of a Heet at anchor. The keesee^keesee is such a beautiful and delicate fond creature, that it is by many people kept as a favourite, when it wears a silver chain. Besides its mimic drolleries, it is remarkable for its good-nature and chirruping voice, which pronounces peeteeco peeteeco without intermission. They are easily tamed, and are taken by a strong glue made by the lu-^ dians, which is something hkc our European bird-lime. ' I was, on the 5^4th, exceedingly ill indeed, not being '^ble to sit up in my hammock, under which the black boy Quaco now lay, crying for his master, and on the following day the poor lad himself iell sick ; at the same time I was also obliged to send three men in a fever to Devil's Harwar. As misfor- tunes often crowd together, I received, at this fatal periotl, the melancholy account that the officer, Mr. Owen, was also dead, having expired on his passage downwards at the estate Alica, where he was buried. My ensign, Mr. Cottenburg, who had since gone to Paramai'ibo, died next; and for myself no better was now to be expected. In the height of a burning fever I now lay, forsaken by all my officers antl men, without a friend to comfort me, and without assistance of any kind, except what the poor remaining negro slaves could affort' iue^ by boiling a little water to make some tea. In this situation the reader may judge the consolation which was afforded me, tJie very evening when these accumulated misfortunes seemed to threaten our extinction, by the receipt of an order from the colonel, to come down with both the barges to Devifs Harwar, where I was again to take post on shore, and relieve captain iji-i' ■ iM H r U 864 STEDMAN S NARRATIVE OF Orzinga, of the Society service, "who with his men was to pro* ceed to La Rochelle in Patamaca, to strengthen the troops already there. Ill as I was, this had sucii a powerful effect on my spirits, that I immediately ordered the Cerberus down to the mouth of the Cormoetibo creek, where she joined me that evening. * As I was resting in my hammock, betweeen the paroxysms of my fever, about half way between Cormoetibo and Barba> coeba, while the Charon was floating down, the sentinel called to me that he had seen and challenged something black and moving in the brush-wood on the beach, which ga^'c no an- swer ; but which, from its size, he concluded must be a man. I immediately dropped anchor; and having manned the ca- noe, ill us I was, I stepped into it, and rowed up to the place mentioned by the sentinel. Here we stepped ashore to recon- noitre, as I suspected it to be no other than a rebel spy, or a straggling party detached by the enemy; but one of my slaves, of the name of David, declared it was no negro, but a large amphibious snake, which could not be far from the beach, and I might have an opportunity of shooting it if I pleased. To this, however, I had not the least inclination, from tlie un- common size of the creature, from my weakness, and the dif- ficulty of getting through the thicket, which seemed impene- trable to the water's edge ; and therefore ordered all of them to return on board. The negro then asked me liberty to step forward and shoot it himself, assuring me it could not be at any great distance, and warranting me against all danger.— This declaration inspired me with so much pride and emula- tion, that I determined to take his first advice, and kill it myself; provided he would point it out to me, and be respon- sible for the hazard, by standing at my side, from which I swore that if he dared to move, I should level the piece at himself, and blow out his own brains. To this the negro cheerfully agreed; and having loaded my gun with a ball-cartridge, we proceeded ; David cutting a path with a bill-hook, and a marine following, with three more loaded firelocks to keep in readiness. We had not gone above twenty yards through mud and water, the negro looking every way witli when sta and ill cfj leaves an* was some monster, tongue, V peared to a branch, missing tl animal str cut away a scythe mo mud and c Of this pr but took t gro now inl snake won] sisting in tJi pursue us ; i till I shoul make the tr wards had I now foun tion, but ve the fallen immediatelv and now, be of dust and us once jnor ing heartily liic brarirc: tijc aiiini.'il, third and la oJico more d at onco, and us shot throi }>letoly liajij) Vol,. I.-( AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 265 way with an uncommon degree of vivacity and attention ; wlien starting behind me, he called out, " Mo see snakee !'*' and in effect there lay the animal, rolled up under the fallen leaves and rubbish of the trees ; and so well covered, that it was some time before I distinctly perceived the head of this monster, distant from me not above 16 feet, with its forked tongue, while its eyes, from their uncommon brightness, ap- peared to emit sparks of fire. I now, resting my piece upon a branch, for the purp)se of taking a surer aim, fired ; but missing the head, the ball went through the body, when the animal struck round, and with such astonishing force as to cut away all the underwrxHl around him with the facility of a Bcythe mowing grass; and by flouncing his tail, caused the mud and dirt to fly over our heads to a considerable distance. Of this proceeding, however, we were not torpid spectators, but took to our heels, and crowded into the canoe. The ne- gro now intrcated me to renew the charge, assuring me the snake would be quiet in a few minutes, and at any rate per- sisting in the assertion that he was neither able nor inclined to pursue us; which opinion he supported by walking before me, till I should be ready to fire. And thus I again undertook to make the trial, especially as he said that his first starting back- wards had only proceeded from a desire to make room for me. I now found the snake a little removed from his former sta- tion, but very quiet, with his head as before, lying out among the fallen leaves, rotten bark, antl old moss. I fired at it immediately, but with no better success than the other time : and now, being but slightly wounded, he sent up such a cloud of dust and dirt, as I never saw but in a whirlwind, and made us once more suddenly retreat to our canoe ; where now, be- ing hcarlily tired of the expk)it, I gave orders to row towards (he barge: but David still intreating me to permit him to kill the animal, I was, by his persua^.ions, induced to make a third ami last attempt, in company with him. Thus, having once more discovered the suake, we discharged both our pieces at onci^ and with this good effect, that he was now by one of us shot thi-ounh the head. David, who was now made com- plotoly ha)ij)v l)y this successful conclusion, ran leaping with Vol. l.~.{V.>) 2 L I , ii . 806 STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OF joy, and lost no time in bringing the boat-rope, in order to drag him down to the canoe; but this agun proved not a very easy undertaking, since the creature, notwithstanding its be. ing mortally wounded, still continued to writhe and twist about, in such a manner as rendered it dangerous for any person to approach him. The negro, however, having made a running noose on the rope, after some fruitless attempts to make an approach, threw it over his head with much dex- terity ; and now, all taking hold of the rope, we dragged him to the beach, and tied him to the stern of the canoe, to take him in tow. Being still alive, he kept swimming like an eel ; and I having no relish for such a shipmate on board, whose length (notwithstanding to my astonishment all the negroes declared it to be but a young one come to about its half growth) I found upon measuring it to be 22 feet and some inches ; and its thickness about that of my black boy Quaco, who might then be about 12 years old, and round whose waist I since measured the creature's skin. ' Being arrived along-side of the Charon, the next consider* ation was, how to dispose of this immense animal ; when it was at length determined to bring him on shore at Barbacoe- ba, to have him skinned, and take out the oil, &c. In order tp effect this purpose, the negro David having climbed up a tree with the end of the rope, let it down over a strong forked bough, and the other negroes hoisted up the snake, and sus« pended him from the tree. This done, David, with a sharp knife between hb teeth, now left the tree, and clung fast upon the monster, which was still twisting, and began his operations by ripping it up, and stripping down the skin as he descend- ed. Though I perceived that the animal was no longer able to do him any injury, I confess I could not without emotion see a man stark naked, black and bloody, clinging with arms and legs round the slimy and yet living monster. This la- bour, however, was not without its use, since he not only dexterously finished the operation, but provided me, besides the skin, with above four gallons of fine clarified fat, or rather oil, though there was wasted perhaps as much more. This I delivered to the surgeons at Devil's Harwar, for the use of m I ■'■srjtK'- P*. i 11 •'i if IS sM Pi ; ijljijl H' STiRlDM.5jy8 Al't'OTTST OF S riRII^VM. The 8Ki]N:xiyoorTiiKJ*OAS]NAKE. I'uA/t.v/irf/ ^y JUffM-eneK &^Dent. I "'W AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 267 the wounded men in the hospital, for which I received their hearty thanks, it l)eing considered, particularly tor bruises, a very excellent remedy. When I signified my surprize to see the snake still living, afler he was deprived of his intes- tines and skin, Caramaca, the old negro, whether from expe- rience or tradition, assured me he would not die till after sun- set. The negroes now cut him in slices, in order to dress and feast upon him, they all declaring that he was exceedingly good and wholesome; but to their great mortification I refused to give my concurrence, and we rowetl down Hith the skin to Devil's Harwar. * Of this species several skins are preserved in the British and Mr. Parkinson's museums. It is called by Mr. Westley lyboiay and boa in the British Encyclopedia, to which publi- cation I refer the reader for a perfe(;t account, and an excel- lent engraving of this wonderful creature, which in the colony of Surinam is called aboma. Its length, when full grown, is said to be sometimes 40 feet, and more than four feet in cir- cumference ; its colour is a greenish l)lack on the back ; a fine brownish yellow on the sides, and a dirty white under the belly : the back and sides being spotted with irregular black rings, with a pure white in the middle. Its head !5 broad and flat, small in proportion to the body, with a large ir.outh, and a double row of teeth : it has two bright prominent eyes ; is covered all over with scales, some aobut the size of a shilling ; and under the body, near the tail, armed with two strong claws like cock-spurs, to help it in seizing its prey. It is an amphibious animal, that is, delights in low and marshy places, where it lies coiled up like a rope, and concealed under moss, rotten timber, and dried leaves, to seize its prey by surprize, which from its immense bulk it is not active enough to pursue. When hungry, it will devour any animal that comes within its reach, and is indifferent whether it is a sloth, a wild boar, a ^itag, or even a tiger ; round which having twisted itself by tho help of its claws, so that the creature cannot escape, it breaks, by its irresistible force, every bone in the animaPs bo- dy, which it then covers over with a kind of sUme or slaver from its mouth, to make it slide ; and at last gi'aduully sucks i. i ^ilii-^i: f.; 1 ■ 1, !'i i I i IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^^ VQ /. It '/ /A 1.0 ■1° llfiu ■' 2.5 2.2 I.I IE ■3.6 1.8 1.25 1.4 III 1.6 ^ 6" ► Photographc Sciences Corporation 1% WIST MAIN STRHT WSBSTER,N.Y. 14S«0 (716)872-4503 4r 6^ ^8 «TEDMAN*S NARRATIVE OF it in, till it disappears : after this, tlie aboma cannot shift its situation, on account of the great knob or knot which the swal- lowed prey occasions in that part of the body where it rests till it is digested ; for till then it would hinder the snake from sliding along the ground. During that time the aboma wfiiUs no other subsistence. * On the 27tli of August I relieved captain Orzinga with his men, and took the command of Devifs Harwar, having been on board the Charon exactly 56 day.s, in the most wretched condition that can l)e described. The next evening he entertained me and my two subalterns with a supper of fiesh vicat^ both roast and boiled, to our great comfort and surpri.7e ; but which, to my unspeakable mortification, proved to be the individual poor cow with her calf, on which we had built all our hopes for a little relief. ' On the morning of the 28th the Society troops rowed to Patamaca, when, examining the 20 soldiers they had left me, they proved to be the refuse of the whole, part were sick with agues, wounds, ruptures, and rotten limbs, and most of them next day were obliged to enter the hospital."* In this forlorn situation, captain Stedman received informa- tion that the rebels had destroyed three estates in his neigh- bourhood, and cut all the throats of the white inhabitants that fell in their way. * Conscious,' says our author, * of my de- fenceless situation, I immediately started up ; and the express who brought the letter having spread the news the moment of his landing, there was no necessity of beating to arms, since not only the few soldiers who were well, but the whole hospi- tal burst out ; and several of them, in spite of my opposition, crawling im their hands and feet to their arms, dropped dead upon the siiot May I never bihold such another scene of misery and distress ! Lame, blind, sick, and wounded, in the hope of preserving a wretched existence, rushed upon cer- tain death ! ^ Being, afler much anxious watching, persuaded that the rebels must have past the Cordon, without having thought proper to pay us a visit on their retreat, I determined to let the remaining few watch no longer, but permit them to die a natural d there car assistance left to ck) * On S( follcving who was r his feet b poor men ^o a health reconciled wishing to arrived froi nition, pro niy chief tt the former Cottica and * Every t aist^d of m one surgeon 40 privates, sage, and c o'clock in th ing oui' coi mareen accustomed to a healthy climate in their own country. I began now to be reconciled to putting my last man under ground, and almost fishing to leap into the grave after him myself; when a barge arrived from Paramaribo with a proper reinforcement, ammu- nition, provisions, medicineii, a surgeon, a»d an order from ray chief to trace out the track of the rebels immediately, on the former path of communication called the Cordon, between Cottica and Perica. * Every thing l)eing ready for my small party, which con- sisted of myself, an officer of the Society* Mr. Hertsbergh, one surgeon's mate, one guide, two Serjeants, two corporals, 40 privates, and only eiglit negro slaves to cut open the pas- gage, and carry the baggage, we faced to the right at six o'eipok in the morning, and sallied forth into the woods, keep- ing pur course directly for the Perica river ; and having marched till about 11 o'clock on the Cordon, I discovered, as I bad expected, the track of the rebels by the marks of their footsteps in the nmd, by the broken bottles, plantam-shells, &c. and found that by appearance it bore towards Pinne- burgh. * I had now indeed found the nest, but the birds were flown. We continued our march till ei^'^^ o'clock, when we arrived at the St)ciety post Scribo in Perica, in a most shock- ing condition, liaving waded through water and mire above our hips, climbed over heaps of fallen trees, and crept under- neath on our bc^llies. This, however, was not the worst, for Qur flesh was terribly mangled and torn by the thoirns, and «tung by the Patat Uee, ants, and ivass^xmssy^ or wild bees. dliii m 270 STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OP * The worst of our sufferings, however, was the fatigue of inarching in a burning sun, and the last two hours in total darkness, holding each other by the hand ; and having left 10 men behind, some with agues, some stung blind, and some with their feet full of chigoes. Aftei being in the most hospitable manner received at Scribo by the commanding offi- cer, I went to my hammock very ill of a fever. * On the following morning I felt myself better for my nights rest; but neither myself nor my men were able to march back, wherefore the other captain sent a small party of his soldiers to pick up the poor marines I had lost the day before, and of whom they brought with them seven, carried in hammocks tied to poles, each by two negroes, the other three having scrambled back to Devil's Harwar. * During our stay here I wrote a letter to colonel Four- geoud, couched in such terms as few people in their full senses would do to their commanders, viz. that I had found the path ; that if I had had support in time I might have cut off the enemy's retreat, instead of finding their foot-steps only ; but that now all was too late, and the party all knocked up to no purpose. This letter, I have been since told, incens:^ him, as it is easy to suppose, in the highest degree. Being suffi- ciently refreshed to renew my march, we lefl Scribo on the 9th, at four o'clock in the morning, and at four o'clock P. M. arrived, after indescribable sufferings, at Devil's Harwar, co- vered over with mud and blood, and our legs and thighs cut and torn by the thorns and branches ; most of the men being without shoes and stockings of necessity, while I, who had gone this march in the same condition from choice, had abso- lutely suffered the least of the whole party, by having inured myself gradually to walk barefooted on the barges. * At Devil's liarwar, I now found lieutenant-colonel Wes- terloo and a quarter-master arrived to take the command, his troops not being expected till the next day. I was by this circumstance, made exceedingly happy, hoping at last to meet with some relief; and having ceded him my written orders, the magazine, hospital, &c. &c. I stripped and plunged into Mm AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 271 the river to wash myself and take a swim, by which (being before much over-heated) I found myself greatly refreshed, as well as by receiving a quantity of fine fruit, Jamaica rum, wine and sugar, from Joanna ; — but how did my blood chill, when the quarter-master told me, as a secret, that my Ser- jeant, one Fowler, having first got drunk with my wine, of- fered violence to this poor woman ; and that he was to be at Devifs Harwar next day, when I should see the marks of her just resentment on his face ! * The reader "vvill, I trust, excuse my violence, when I tell him, that I vowed immediate destruction to the villain : and having ordered a negro to cut 12 bamboo canes, I retired like a person deprived of his senses, determined to punish him ac- cording to his supposed crime. * On the 10th there arrived two subalterns, with a second barge full of men, ammunition, medicines, and provisions, which having marched into quarters and stowed, I sent for the hapless Fowler, whose face being in three places wounded, I locked him up in a room, and, without asking one question, broke six of the bamboos over his head, till he escaped all bloody out at the window, and my resentment gradually abated. He certainly had suffered much, but nothing equal to what were my sensations, at being still further informed, that colonel Fourgeoud had seized all my effects, which he had sealed and locked up in an tmpty store-room, in expecta- tion of my decease, which, according to all appearances, might be looked for; while my house was given to another, by which means I could not procure so much as a cleaH shirt to relieve me from my disgraceful tatters : nevertheless, by the hope of going down myself, my spirits were supported. The other news, of more importance, was, that the hero in person, with most of the troops, had at last left Paramaribo ; that he had quartered them partly at Devil's Harwar, in Rio Cottica, the estate Bellaiz, in Rio Perica, and at the estates Charenbeck, and Cravassibo, in Rio Commewina ; whence, conjunctly with the troops of the Society and the rangers, he intended to move in quest of the rebels ; that he had also ordered all the barges to be relieved at last, and their remaining troops to reinforce iii^:.:- 273 STEDMAIsrS NARRATIVE OF the above-mentioned posts, which I must remark vas a very wise and well-planned regulation. * Having remonstrated with lieutenant-colonel Westcrloo on the state ot' my health, which disabled me from joining the corps on their march, I requested that I might be removed to to Paramarilw) lor the chance of recovery; but this he pe- remptorily refused to allow me, by colonel Pourgeoud's express command. The refusal of so reasonable a request made me almost distracted, and agitated my spirits so much, that on the morning of the 12th, determined to exchange my wretched existence one way or other, I insisied on being immediately temoved, or wished for deaths which the surgeons declared must be the consequence soon, if I was not permitted to go down, and in the meanwhile I vowed that I should attribute my decease to their unprecedented barbarity. A consultation was now held on the subject ; and at last, not without great difficulties, a boat was ordered to row me down to Paramaribo, but no white servant was permitted to attend me. Thus leav- ing the lieutenant-colonel employed in fortifying Devifs JIarwar with pallisadoes, where now also was a numerous garrison, I at 15^ o'clock at noon walked to the M'atcr-side, supp)rtcd by a negro, on whose shoulder I rested, till I at length stepped into the boat, followed by my black boy Quaco, and finally left the diabolical spot where I had buried so many brave fellows. * On the 14th, having rowed day and night, at two o'clock in the morning we arrived at the town, ext^*emely ill indeed ; where, having no residence of my own, I was hospitably re- ceived at the house of a Mr. De La Marre, a merchant : this gentleman not only received me, but immediately sent a ser- vant for poor Joanna, who was at her mother's, and another for a physician to attend me, as my weak and hopeless cotidi- tion now required every assistance that the town of Paramaribo could afford ; and on the 16th, I found myself in an elegant and well-furnished apartment, caressed by my lovely mulatto. * A captain Brant having at this time the command in colo- nel Fourgeoud's absence, he sent, the morning after my arri- val, my trunks and baggage, which had been sealed up ; but on kxjking into them, I found I had enemies at home as well to du^t nam: n brought extremel *Havi duct; wl had inde bad fallei never had was his CO bis inebrie nie and Jc against his past condt whom I pr ^ept my w( infected wil 'n Surinam ' On the from living droops left Pour^eoud cash, &c. \v\ placed beforl * The fir/ the sour win| well as the niy possessiol not to be ablj that were lef J ^AB however [ tbe butter, J tbeygotonei to two poundj they were lof allowance, noj a regimental Vol, I. AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 273 In- as abroad ; since most of my shirts, books, &c. were gnawed to di! ^t by the blatta or cockroach, called caJcrcluce in Suri- nam: nay, even my shoes were destroyed, of which I Imd brought with me twelve pairs new from Europe, as they were extremely dear and bad in this country. ' Having now time, I enquired concerning Fowler''s con- duct ; when, to my infinite surprize, I was informed that he had indeed got drunk, as was reported to me, by which he had fallen amongst the bottles and cu: his face, but that he never had attempted the smallest rudeness : so much indeed was his conduct the reverse of what had been reported, that his inebriety had proceeded from his resentment at seeing both me and Joanna ill treated, and my property transported away against his inclination. I was now extremely chagrined at my past conduct, and was gently reproved by the caiise of it, to whom I promised to be Fowler's friend for ever after — and I kept my word. My fever was now much abated, but I was infected with another disorder peculiar to this climate, called in Surinam the ring-worm. ' On the Sd of Octolxsr I was a little better, and was exalted from living like a sav?gc, to the temporary command of a few troops left at Paramaribo, captain Brant being ordered to join Fourgeoud in Rio Coniewina ; when the colours, regiment's cash, &c. were transmitted to my own lodging, and a sentinel placed before my door. * The first exercise I made of my power was to discharge the sour wine, which had been bought for the sick officers as well as the men, whom I supplied, from the money now in my possession, with good wholesome claret ; but I was sorry not to be able also to exchange the salt beef, pork, and pease, that were left at the hospital for fresh provisions. This step was however particularly forbidden by the commander ; while the butter, cheese, and tobacco were taken away, for which they got one quart of oil amongst ten, and their bread reduced to two pounds each man for a MJiole week. As to the officers, they were left to shift lor themselves, or submit to the same allowance, notwithstanding they kept on paying their quota to a regimental mess, which now no longer existed. Vol. I. o M A I \if, W\ 374 ST^DMAN'S NARRATIVE OF * ^A the 6th the fever had left me, and the ring-worms be- gan to uhaUi ; but the misery and hardships which I had so lately undergone still had an effect upon my constitution, and enormous boils broke out on my left thigh, which entirely pre- vented me from walking. My physician, however, ordering me daily to take the air, I had an opportunity this day of waiting on his excellency the governor of the colony, by the help of my friend Kennedy's chaise ; and as I returned home- ward, I stopped the carriage at the water-side, to behold a group of human beings, who had stroL ^ly attracted my atten- tion. This group I sliall circumstantially endeavour to de- scribe. They were a drove of newly-imported negroes, men and women, with a few cliildren, who Avere just landed from on board a Guinea ship that lay at anchor in the roads, to be sold for slaves. The whole party was such a set of scarcely animated automatons, such a resui'rection of skin and bone, as forcibly reminded me of the last trumpet. These objects appeared that moment to be risen from the grave, or escaped from surgeon'*s hall ; and I confess I can give no better de- scription of them, than by comparing them to walking skele- tons covered over with a piece of tanned leather. * Before these wretches, who might be in all about sixty in number, walked a sailor, and another followed behind with a bamboo^rattan ; the one serving as a shepherd to lead them along, and the other as his dog to worry them occa^sionally, should any one lag behind, or wander away from the flock. — At the same time, however, equity demands the acknowledge, mcnt, that instead of all those horrid dejections which axe de- scribed in pamphlets and news-papers, I perceived not one single downcast look amongst them all ; and I must add^ that the punishment of the bamboo was inflicted with the utmost moderation by the sailor who brought up the rear. . ' Having sufficiently described their figures after landing,, we now suppose them walking along the water-side, and through the streets, where every planter picks out that imm* ber which he stands in need of, to supjdy those lost by death or desertion, and begins to make a bargai:i with the captain. Good negroes are generally valued at from 50 to 100/. eadu Amongst price is a known the Jedged hin tality scare value, by which, hov *Thene w struck, i! to mount oi a wirgeon, > with arms t prove their adopted by purpose, or down; and on the brea made of sU^ name, as wc them proper of asix-penc4 and the blis( ter, are perft •ooner is this newly-bought of the same s perly kept cL without worki period, from with a beautifi Egging of soff * On the 1 •rambled out *e best bidde maj^ferm some I found among Pstieoaberg, ^ AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. «75 Amongst these, should a ivoman chance to be pregnant, her price is augmented accordingly, for which reason I have known the captain of a Dutch Guinea vessel, who acknow- ledged himself to be the father, take advantage, with a hru- tality scarcely credited in Inkle and Yarico, of doubling thtf value, by selling his own offspring to the best bidder; for which, however, he was highly censured by his companions. * The next circumstance that takes place before the bargain is struck, is to cause the negroes for sale, one after another, to mount on a hogshead or a table, where they are visited by a furgeon, who obliges them to make all the different gestures, with arms and legs, of a merry-andrew upon the stage, to prove their soundness or unsoundness ; after which they ar^ adopted by the buyer, or rejected, as he finds them fit for bift purpose, or otherwise. If he keeps them, the money is paid down ; and the new-bought negroes are immediately branded on the breast or the thick part of the shoulder, by a stamp made of silver, with the initial letters of the new master'*s name, as we mark furniture or any thing else to authenticate th^n properly. These hot letters, which are about the ^zd of a six-pence, occasion not that pain which may be imagineid, and the bUsters being rubbed directly with a little fresh but- ter, are perfectly well in the space of two or three days. No sooner is this ceremony over, and a new name given to the oewiy-bought slave, than he or she is delivered to an old one of the same sex, and sent to the estate, where each is pro- perly kept clean by his guardian, instructed and weil fed, without working, for the space dP Six weeks; during which period, from living skeletons, they become plump and fat^ with a beautiful clean skin, till it is disfigured by the inhuman flogging oi some rascally proprietor, or rather his overseer. * On the 10th, the surgeon having lanced my thigh, I scrambled out once more, to witness the selling of slaves to the best Indder. After what has been related, the readei^ may Ibrm some judgment of my surprize and confusion, when I found among tihem my inestimable Joanna; the sugar-estate PoueoHberg, w4tk itb whole stock, being this day sold by aai :') It ;• F -. F ,.|t|>. .1 ,< V w^^ 276 STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OF execution, for the benefit of the creditors of its late possessor, Mr. D. B. who had fled. * I now felt all the horrors of the damned. I bewailed again and again my unlucky fortune, that did not enable me to be- come her proprietor myself, and in my mind I continually painted her ensuing dreadful situation. I fancied I saw her tortured, insulted, and bowing under the weight of her chains, calling aloud, but in vain, fur my assistance. I was misera- ble, and indeed nearly deprived of all my faculties, till I'cstored by the assurances of my friend, Mr. Lolkens, who providen- tially was appointed to continue administrator of the estate during the absence of its new possessors, Messrs. Passelege and son, at Amsterdam, who bought it and its dependants for only 4,000/. * No sooner was he confirmed in his appointment, than this disinterested and steady friend brought Joanna to my pre- sence; and pledged himself, that in every service which he could render to myself or her, and wliich he had now more in his power than ever, no efforts on his side should be want- ing. This promise I desired him to keep in remembrance, and accordingly he ever since most nobly persevered. * Being now perfectly recovered, I resolved to join colonel Fourgeoud at the Wana creek, without waiting his orders, and to accompany him on his excursions through the forest : in consequence of which, having first cropt my hair, as being more convenient in the woods as well as more cleanly, and provided myself with the necessary bush-equipage, such as jackets, trowsers, &c. ; I waited on the governor to ask his pommands ; he entertained me in a most polite manner, and told me, that what I was now going to suffer would surpass what I had already undergone. I nevertheless persisted in wishing to go without wtuting an order from the chief, and accordingly applied to the magistrates for a boat, and the ne- cessary negroes to transport me; which being promised for the succeeding day, I transferred the colours and re^menfs cash, with the command of the remaining sick troops, to lieu- tenant Meyer, the only healthy officer at Paramaribo. Indeed tJie coI< tt|ual ui except i colonel tiler. I 'Out second a the eveni yawl, wii estate in ^nng tiiei I might, J manage fi already on voluntarily «d, and st daring I ^ centjy tran; seconded h a general ti the expence when they < declared th who deserve geoud's tro( Mr. Harde^ bottles, and trates were r continued ir my friends f] sailors, plant toJs, which ] it have ende was member gentlemen w\ pease the dis/ and should hi AN EXPEDITION TO SUHINAM. 277 tlie colours, the cash, and the sick soldiers were nearly of equal use in Surinam, the first never having lx;en displayed except at our landing, the second invisible to all except to colonel Fourgeoud, and the third dying away one after ano- tJier. * On the 25th of October, being ready to proceed upon my second campaign, I repaired to the water-side at six o'clock in the evening ; where, instead of a tent-lx)at, I found a greasy yawl, with a i'ew drunken Dutch sailors, to row me to an estate in the river Comewina, whence they were going to bring their captain back to ParamarilK), and frc m which place I might, if I pleased, beg the rest of my passage upwards, or manage for myself in the best manner I was able. I had alreatly one foot in the boat, when reflecting that I was going voluntarily on a hazardous expedition, without orders, repent- ed, and stepped back upon the shore, where, positively de- claring I would not move in their defence till I should be de- cently transported, should the whole colony be on fire, I was seconded by all the English and Americans in the town, and a general tumult took place. The Dutch exclaimed against the expence of a tent-boat which would cost them 30 shillings, when they could have the other for nothing : while the others declared they were a set of mean and parsimonious wretches, who deserved not the smallest protection from colonel Four- geoud"'s troops. A mob collected, and a riot ensued, before Mr. Hardegen's tavern, at the water-side, while hats, wigs, bottles, and glasses, flew out at his windows. The magis- trates were next sent for, but to no purpose : and the fighting continued in the street till 10 o'clock, at night, when I with, my friends fairly kept the field, having knocked down several sailors, planters, Jews, and overseers, and lost one of my pis- tols, which I threw after the rabble in a passion ; nor would it have ended here, had not my friend Mr. Kennedy, who was member of the court of policy, and two or three more gentlemen whom he brought with him, found means to ap- pease the disputants, by declaring I had been very ill treated, and should have a proper boat the next day. ,1 '■ l''^:-'!; ilil 'hi i iiit s i, ''ii xtn STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OP * Having now slept and refreshed niyself a few hours, I was waited on by four American captains, viz. captain Tim- mons of the Harmony, captain Lewis of the Peggy, captain Bogard of the Olive Branch, and captain Minet of the Ame- rica, who insisted on my refusing any vessel whatever from the colony tliis time, and ofiering to send me up in one of their own boats, manned by their own sailors only, to which each woidd equally contribute. I can aver, that notwith- standing the threatening rupture between Great Britain and her colonies, which seemed then upon the eve of breaking out into open \ lolence, nothing could surpass the warm and cordial friendship which tliese gentlemen possessed, not only for me, but for every individual that bore a British name, of had any connection with that island ; professing that they still rctmned the greatest regard for every thing in Britain, but its administration. I .iccepted of their very polite proposal ; and having an'anged matters in such a manner at home, that nei-> ther colonel Fourgeoud nor the cock-roachers could injure me, I shook hands with my mulatto, and at six in the evening repaired once more to the water-side, escorted by my English and American firiends, where, having drank a bowl of punch, we sepai'ated. I then departed for my station, they having hoisted the colours on board all their vessels in the rood, and at the boaf s going ofF saluted m« with three cheers, to my great satisfaction, aiul the mortification of the ^ping multi- tude by which we were surrounded. We soon rowed beycmd the view of Paranaaribo. * Being arrived at the fortress of New Amsterdam, we were obliged to stop for the return of the tide, to row up the river Comewina. In this intervtd, I was genteelly entertained with a supper by the Society officers quai'tured there ; but at 19 o^clock we got aboard, and having rowed all night, I break- fasted with captain Macneyl, who was one of genend Spovk^s captains in 1751 ; aflt«r which we once more set out, and ar- rived at the plantation Charlottenburgh. So much inemsed was I at the usage I had met with at Paramaribo, and so weli pleased with the English sailors, that I ordered the taw » din** «cr of h being my ^hey took pleased, i them. * I now Mondeeir ; estates, Zi burnt whe Repair. J miraculous own yronh 'ounded th their being fire to the f( rushing on ^^U where I of their disf before the hn disappointed, flames increa* the place wh than to be bu <^ow into the measure, hov g^ fortune without a wou ^es and bill- Plunged headi mediately sunk full presence < drowned, faun mangrove rooti impending ven as to continue ii ^ng killed every taken up by a b AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 379 ncr of IS roasted ducks, and gave them GO bottlcK of claret, being my whole stock, besi\.tt a guinea. When the tide ebbed they took their leave, and rowed down to their vessels, as well pleased, and as drank as wine or strong spirits could make them. * I now pursued my voyage upwards as far as the estate Mondefiir ; afterwards, having viewed tlie ruins of the tliree estates, Zuaingheyd, Peru, and KEsperance, which hod been burnt when I commanded at Devifs Harwar, I arrived at Lepair. Here one of the overseers gave me an iicc'ount of his miraculous escape from the rebels, which I shall relate in his own words. — " The rebels, sir,*" said he, " had already sur- rounded the dwelling-house in which I was, before I knew of their being in the plantation, and w^r^ employed in setting fire to the four comers of it, so that to run out of doors was rushing on certain death. In this dilemma I fled to the gar- ret, where I laid myself flat upon one of the beams, in hopes of their dispersing soon, and that I might effect mj escape before the building should be burnt down ; but in this I was disappointed, as they still remained : and at the same time the flames increased so fast, that the heat became insupportable in the place where I was, and I had no other alternative left, than to be burnt to death, or to leap from a high garret win- dow into the midst of ray exasperated enemies. This last measure, however, I resolved upon, and had not only the good fortune to alight u .hurt upon my feet, but to escape without a wound, from among so many men armed with sa- bres and bill-hooks. I flew to the river-side, into which I plunged headlong; however, not being able to swim, I im- mediately sunk to the bottom ; but (said he) I still kept my full presence of mind, and while they concluded me to be drowned, found means, by tlie help of the moco-moco and mangrove roots, to bring myself not only under cover of the impending verdure, but just so far above water with ray lips as to continue in a state of respiration till all was over. Hav- ing killed every other person, the rebels departed, and I was tftken up by a boat from my very periloos situation.^ mt M.|i I- ■l.l" u* ilii i*!al 280 STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OP After a variety of little adventures Stedman arrived at the Wana creek, and shortly after the troops arrived in two co- lumns, the one commanded by major Rughcop, and the other by colonel Fourgeoud. * I was now,' says he, * in excellent health and good spirits ; and in hopes of being reconciled to Fourgeoud by this voluntary proof of my zeal for the service, I returned to the rangers' camp to wait his arrival. I was in- deed well acquainted with his irreconcileable temper, and at the same time conscious of my own wild and ungovernable disposition, when I thought myself ill treated ; but soon for- got trifling injuries, and was now determined, by my active and affable behaviour, to make hira my friend if possible. At length the wished-for hour arrived; and being apprized of colonel Fourgeoud's approach, I went half a mile from the camp to meet him, acquainting him that I was come pour participer de la gloire, and to serve under his immediate com- mand, which he answered with a bow, I returned it, and we marched together to the rangers' camp.' The troops in this expedition had destroyed a great quan- tity of rice belonging to the rebels; but the soldiers being nearly starved by the avarice of the colonel, had broke out into mutiny, which was with difficulty suppressed. * Whilst I was now about noon resting in my hammock very contentedly,' says Stedman, * I was accosted by my friend lieutenant Campbell, who acquainted me, with teare in his eyes, that the evening before colonel Fourgeoud had given to the officers of the Surinam Society, not only of that brave and gallant corps the Scots brigade in the Dutch service, but of the British in general, the most unmerited character that could be invented. I immediately started up; and having got Campbell's information confirmed, went to Fourgeoud, and asked him in public the cause of this unmanly slander. — He replied with a stare, that Jiis observaticiis only regarded my petticoat-trowsers, which I wore for coolness and conve- niency, as many British seamen do, and which he had never seen on the mountains of Switzerland. But as to the rest of what was said respecting us, he laid it totally to the charge of Mr. St< Thus J terms, i after, pr we cooilj a sudden forth unt ^is party at the mo cop's cam the next r Jng, a she and the su ' While returned ft sitting roui other office] the Society had taken I njan and fri about to eac tk left, and, although I suspecting tfl rather than an apology, out my glass! the other offij wine, which . concession U ray fierce ad^ ianimity, becj seconded bv tlon. r said boiled bird ^ had been shot] ceremony, an( nay character Vol. I. AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 281 ■II '. pd re- ler loC lof Mr. Stoelman, captain of the Cottica militia, who was absent. Thus I could only answer by denouncing, in the severest terms, vengeance upon this assassin of our reputation ; and after, promising to transform iny shoi't trowsers into long ones, we coolly separated. An hour however after this, I received a sudden order to cross the Cormoetibo river, and be hence- forth under the command of major Rughcop, who was with his party or column at this time encamped on the south side at the mouth of Wana creek. Being arrived in major Rugh- cop's camp, and having got a couple of negroes to serve nie, the next measure was to build a hut, or, more properly speak- ing, a shed over my hammock, to keep me free from the rain and the sun, which was done v/ithin the space of one hour. * While we continued in this station, one morning, being returned from a patrole, with 20 marines and 20 rangers, and sitting round a species of table to take some dinner witli the other ofHcers, I was rudely insulted by a captain Meyland, of the Society troops, who, as I said, with lieutenant Fredericy, had taken Boucou, and who was colonel Fourgeoud's country- man and friend. The affront consisted in Meyland's handing about to each a drop of claret, he having indeed but one bot- tle left, and, in an impertinent manner, excepting me alone, although I held the glass in my hand to receive it. Justly suspecting this insult to originate from my commander-in-chief, rather than appear to seek a quarrel, I endeavoured to make an apology, telling him, I had inadvertantly eiTed in holding out my glass, not imagining I was to be distinguished from the other officers ; assuring him it was not for the value of his wine, which I politely relinquished to my neighbour ; but this concession had no other effect than to increase the wrath of my fierce adversary, who, apparently mistaking it for pusil- lanimity, became overbearing and scurrilous, in which he was seconded by all the other Swiss and Germans without excep- tion. I said no more, and having tore away a wing of a boiled bird called powese, that stood before me (which bird had been shot by one of the rangers) I devoured it with little ceremony, and lefl the table, with a determination to support my character or die. Vol. I. 2 N m 2821 STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OF ' Thus resolved, I first went to the hut of a sick soldiei', whose sabre I liorrowed (my ov/n being broken) on pretence of going out to cut a few sticks ; after this I went in quest of Mr. Meyland, and found him contentedly smoking his pipe by the water-side, looking at one of his friends who was an- gling. Having tapped him on the shoulder, I hastily told him before the other, that now if he did not fight me that in- stant like a gentleman, I was determined to take revenge ano- ther way, with the flat of my sabre, where he stood. He at first declared that he had only meant a joke, and seemed for peace; but perceiving that I persisted, he with great sang frcnd knocked the tobacco-ashes from his pipe against the heel of his shoe; then having brought his sabre, we walked toge-- ther without seconds about half a mile into the wood ; here I ' stopt the captain short, and drawing my weapon, now desired him to stand on his defence; this he did, but at the same time observed, that as the |X)int of his sword was broken off, we were unequally armed ; and so indeed we were, his being still near one foot longer tlian my own ; therefore calling to him that sabres were not made to thrust^ but to cut with, I offered to make an exchange ; but he refusing, I dropped mine on the ground, and eagerly with l)oth hands endeavoured to Avrest his from him, till (as I had hold of it by the blade) I saw the blood trickle down all my fingers, and I was obliged to let go. * 1 now gi'aspecT my own sabre, with which 1 struck at him many times, but without the least effect, as he parried every blow with the utmost facility ; at last, with all his force, he made a cut at my head, which, being conscious I could not ward oft' by my skill, I bowed under it, and at the same in- stant striking sideways for his throat, had the good fortune to make a g-ash in tlie thick part of his right-arm at least six inches long, the two lips of which appeared through his blue jacket, and in consequence of which his right-hand came down dangling by his side. I had, however, not escaped entirely unhurt, for his sabre, having passed through my hat without touching my skull, had glanced to my right-shoulder, and cut it about one inch deep. At this time 1 msistcd on his asking uiy par< <;hose tli that sue when w. blood, t< the woui several w *Thus TOe the gi was ofFerc have me i we lived yet decree self under had espoui this I had violence oi their error . ' On the together on where it ru at hotli cr< «vf n r took that i had i in a duel which tresp but to tell 1 those smiles crocodile. ' My dou my only tru Harwar, he to M'ait till I clean linen ; was become me to overti composed of with Campbc AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. ^88 my pardon, or on firing both our pistols left-handed ; but he <;hose the first, which ended the battle. 1 now reminded him that such Swiss jokes were always too serious to Englishmen ; when we shook hands, and I conducted him, covered with blood, to the surgeon of his owr corps, who having sewed up the wound, he went to his hamnuxik, and for the space of several weeks performed no duty. * Thus was I reconciled to captain Meyland; and what gave me the greatest satisfaction, was his acknowledging the aflront was offered, as finding it would be agreeable to Fourgeoud to have me mortified; and indeed ever after this acknowledgment we lived in the utmost intimacy. Peace, however, was not yet decreed to he my lot, for that very afternoon I found my- self under the necessity of challenging two other officers, who had espoused Meyland's quarrel against me at dinner ; but in this I had the satisfaction of establishing my character without violence or bloodshed, both of the gentlemen acknowledged their error ; and I became at once the favourite of the camp. ' On the 9th of November both columns met, and encamped together on the north side of the Wana creek, near its mouth, where it runs into the Connojtibo, placing advanced guards at both creeks, at one mile distance from it ; and this a ery evf n I took the opportunity of acquainting colonel Fourgeoud, that I had nearly cut ofl' the head of his belo ed countryman in a duel (well knowing he must be informed by others) ; which trespass he was not only pleased !>raciously to pardon, but to tell me with a smile that I was a brave (yarcon^ but in those smiles I put no more trust than I would in the tears of a crocodile. ' My doubts of his friendship were so(m confirmed, since my only true friend, Campbell, going down sick to Devil's Harwar, he would not so much as allow the boat or poukce to wait till I had finished a letter, directed to Joanna, for some clean linen ; however, a ranger (of which corps I by this time was become a remarkable favourite) found means to enable me to overtake this poor man in a corialla or small canoe, composed of one single piece of timber ; when, shaking hands with Campbell, we separated with tears, and I never saw iiim . ii ' I ; I I-, It lii S84 STEDMAN S NARRATIVE OF more, for he died in a few days after. Colonel Fourgeoud now being determined to scour the north banks of the Cormo- etibo, we broke up in two columns, viz. his own first, and that of major Rughcop, to which last I still belonged, follow- ing ; we left behind a strong guard, with the provisions fen* the sick. * We proceeded forward, keeping our course txiward the mouth of the Comioetibo creek, each officer provided with a pocket compass, by which we were to steer, like sailors, through a dark wood, where nothing is to be seen but the heavens, as at sea nothing appears but clouds and water: thus those who were acquainted with navigation were the best qua- lified for marching, and ran the least haeard of losing them- selves in a black unbounded forest. But those wretches who most deservedly attracted my pity, were the miserable negro slaves, who were bending under their loads ; whose heads, on which they carry all burthens, bore the bald marks of their servitude; — they ;vere driven forward like oxen, and con- demned to subsist on half allowance, while they performed double drudgery. In ^ort, to increase our misf<:»tune, though in the dry season, the rains began to pour down from the hea- vens like a torrent, continuing all night : during this deluge (according to colonel Fourgeoud's order) we were all ordered to encamp without huts or other covering of any land, slinging our hammocks between two trees, under which, upon two small forked sticks, were placed our fire-arms, as the only method of keeping the priming-powder dry in the pan ; above this piece of architecture did I hang, like Mahomet between the two loadstones, with my sabre and pistols in my bosom, and, in spite of wind and weather, fell most profoundly asleep. * On the 14th, at five o'clock in the morning, 1 was awaked by the sound of Up ! up ! up ! when the rain still continuing, the half oL the officers and men were sick, and 1 rose from my hammock soaked as in a wash-tub ; having secured the lock of my firelock, in imitation of the rangers, with a piece of the bark of a palm-tree, and swallowing a dram, with a piece of dry rusk biscuit, for my breakfast, we ag^iin inarched on. — Rutio the wh( in bettc been att cut to p in whicl] Were cor Jng casec buccanee of: one be no trii those we by some now redui on one ru to keep u! * /n the «ented by hooHsy~cak acquisition throwing a ing round began to h It being p at midnigi had beguT acknowledJ terniission.| huts as tht my Englis middle, i round befo| the hours ing compa is, that I which here I ' On the ^'^ry heavy! AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 285 But I ought not to forget mentioning the negroes, who hod the whole night slept in the water on the ground, and yet were in better health than any of the Euro})ean8. Had we now been attacked by the enemy, we must inevitably have been all cut to pieces, being disabled from resisting with our fire-arms, in which not only the priuiing but even many of the cartridges were completely wet ; this might have been })rc'vented by hav- ing cased and waxed down our arms, as is practised by the buccaneers of America; but these were trifles not to be thought of: one thing, however, now happened which threatened to be no trifle, and that was, tliat the provisions were gone, and those we exp jcted to meet us in the creek not arrived, having by some mistake been neglected. By this accident we v/ere now reduced, officers and men without exception, to subsist on one rusk biscuit and water for our allowance for 24 hours, to keep us from starving. * In the midst however of this distress, we were again pre- sented by one of the rangers with a large bird, called here booffsy-calcoo, being a species of wild turkey; of this fortunate acquisition it was resolved in the evening to make broth, each Uirowing a piece of his rusk biscuit into the kettle, and (stand- ing round the fire) beginning to ladle aw».y as soon as the broth began to boil, Avhich had another virtue, viz. notwithstanding it being put over at six o'clock in the evening, at 12 o'clock at midnight the kettle was just as full as the first moment we had begun supper,. though the broth was rather weaker 1 must acknowledge, the heavy rain liaving dashed into it without in- termission. During this heavy storm we were as destitute of huts as the night before, but 1 availed myself once more of n)y English jietticoat trowsers, which, loosening from my middle, i hung about my shoulders, and continuing to turn round before the fire (like a fowl roasting on a string) I passed the hours with rather more comfort than my miserable cough- ing companions. All I can say of the bird above mentioned that i thought it differed Uttle from the common turkeys, IS which here frequently weigh above 201bs. ' On the succeeding morning we marched again through very heavy rains, which by this means had swelled the water ;i" : It'! S86 STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OP so high in the woods that it reached above our knees, and prevented us from crossing a small creek in our way, without thr help of a temporary bridge. * I prevailed therefore on the rangers, with the help of a few slaves, to erect one, whicl| they did in the space of forty minutes, by cutting down a straight tree, which fell directly across the creek, to this they also made a kind of railing ; but ttill with this our commander llughcop, whose temper was soured by misery, and whose constitution was already broken by hardships, was not pleased. He paid the rangers for their pains with oaths and reproaches, who, with a smile of com- tempt, left him swearmg, and crossed the creek, some by swimming, and others by climbing up a tree whose branches hung over it, from which they dropped down on the opposite shore ; in this I followed their example : and here we stopped till the arrival of the poor trembling and debilitated major Rughcop, with two-thirds of his troops as sick as himself. ' We marched again with better weather, and arrived be- fore noon at Jerusalem, near the mouth of Gormoetibo creek, where I had formerly halted during my cruize. Here colonel Fourgeoud, with his drooping soldiers, was arrived just before us; and here we made our appearance, in such a shocking situation as will scarcely admit of description. It is sufficient to say, that the whole little army was exhausted by famine and fatigue, a very small number excepted; while several, unable to walk at all, had been carried upon poles by negro slaves in their hammocks : and during all this time we had discovered nothing. One thing is to be considered, that while the old gentleman himself went through all the above-men- tioned hardships, (to which he seemed as invulnerable as a machine of inm or brass) we had the less reason to complain of bad usage. In short, having as usual plunged in the river, to wash off the mire and blood occasioned by the scratches, and having taken a refreshing swim, I looked round for my ne- groes to erect a comfortable hut; but in this I was disappoint- ed, as they were employed by Mr. Rughcop to build his kit- chen, although he had as yet nothing to dress in it. This piece of un^,oliteness I for once overlooked ; and the rangers AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 887 Iiaving made me a nice bed of manicole-Ieavcs on the ground, (there being no trees in the place to sling a hammock) and having lighted a blazing fire by the side of it, I lay quietly down next them on my green mattress, where, in a elear moonshine night and no rain, I soon fell asleep. But about two hours before day-break I awaked, when the fire was out, the moon was down, and I almost dead with the cold dew and the damp that exhaled from the earth, being so stiff and be- numbed that I had scarcely strength to crawl on hands and feet, and awake one of ray sable companions; he, however, having kindled a new fire, I recruited so as at six o'clock to be able to rise, but with such excruciating pain in one of my sides that I could not avoid groaning aloud ; but to prevent Fourgeoud and the others from hearing, I hid myself in the skirts of the wood ; the pain however still augmenting, I soon was prevented from breathing without the greatest difficulty, and at last fell down behind the rotten trunk of an old cab- bage-tree. In this situation I was discovered by one of the negro slaves who was going to cut raf'ers, and who, supposing me dead, ran instantly back, and alarmed the whole camp. — I was taken up and carried in a hammock, by the care of a captain Medler, under proper cover, and one of the Society surgeons instantly sent for to attend me. By this time I was surrounded by spectators, and the pain in my side became so acute, that, like one in the hydrophobia, I tore my shirt with my teeth, and liit whatever chanced to come near me; till being rubbed by a warm hand on my side with a kind of oint- ment, the complaint suddenly vanished like a dream, and I felt myself completely recovered. * To prevent a relapse, however, the first use that I made of my strength was to cut a cudgel, with which I swore to murder the Berbice ruffian, Geusary, who had the manage- ment of the slaves, if he did not instantaneously employ them to build for me a comfortable hut, let who would order the contrary, my life being the dearest thing I had to regard; and following him close at his heels, with my cudgel clubbed upon my shoulder, I had the satisfaction to be well housed in the space of two hours. I must not omit, that colonel Four- li i lit 288 STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OF geoud, during the crisis of my illness, had made me an offer of being transported to Devifs Ilarwar ; but this 1 refused. * On the 18th the news arrived, tliat poor Campt)ell died on the preceding day ; and now major Rughcop himself was sent down extremely ill, being the eleventh sick officer during this short campaign. * On the 20th we detached a captain, with 20 privates and 20 rangers, to reconnoitre the village of Boucou : on the fol- lowing day major Rughcop died ; and now colonel Fourgeoud resolved to march himself to Boucou, leaving me the command of 400 men, white and black, 200 of whom were sick in their hammocks ; but of that number I transported thirty to die at Devil's Harwar, while I sent 60 rangers with leave down to Paramaribo. These latter went away declaring, that Four- geoud's operations v/ere only calculated to murder his own troops instead of the enemy's. * On the 21st two slaves were put in confinement, accused of having taken pork from the magazine; and I was addressed, by the troops to inflict an exemplary punishment, the common soldiers despising the negro slaves, as in their imagination greatly below themselves, and stupidly considering them as the causes of their distress. Having found a large piece of pork in their custody, yet having no proof that was sufficient to establish the theft, I found myself greatly at a loss to dis- tribute justice with satisfaction to both parties; the Europeans unmercifully accusing, and the poor slaves vindicating their starved companions in such a clamorous style, that the whole camp was in an uproar. The first persisting that the latter had stolen it, and the others that they had saved it from their allowance, to take to their families. Affecting, therefore, the stile of a despotic prince, I ordered first a ring to be formed of the plaintiffs, and next the prisoners to be let within it.— I then, with a stern and loud voice, commanded a block and a hatchet to be brought. It was with heart-felt satisfaction that I found this solemn apparatus, and the apprehension that we might commit a rash and criminal action, soon dispelled every feeling of resentment in the soldiers, and I was implored by the very accusers to shew mercy. Obdurately stopping wiy ear, strong n the pork the prose the execi ended to or compli *Ontl Society ti their late wmdeZ. his arrivai cause, abi thets unbe ficious o£ n a friendly ] one of my ( grew more satisfaction, life, I there my hut in Icng, howe 'ectly south for Patamaca, over steep mountains covered with stones and impregnated with minerals. The whole corps appearing on the 6th exces- •iveiy fatigued, Fourgeoud ordered a general day of rest, only detaching captain Fredency with six men, as he knew the country best, to reconnoitre the banks of the Class creek^ a water t Rio Col chief bj low ahn on the < when aft Frederic me, 1 to teeth, sw ^ oppo afler whi( * At tii was indeei he had no me by the ordering H to find, h actually so my own pr from me. tiles, with hunger wit ealled wan ' On the evening w« marched a lasFt arrive «uch a dispj tatterdemalJ were neverl compared tcT Was not unli the forlorn shirt and t| away. Her the woods w ^ same mi subluQury Vol. I. AN EXPEDITION TO StRINAM. m water that issued from near this place in the upper parts of Rio Cottica. They were nardly marched when the eye of our chief by chance falling on me, he ordered me instantly to fol- low alme, and return with a report of what I could discover on the other side of the creek. I overtook the party soon, when after a short march we were in water up to our arm-pits; Fredericy now ordered a retreat, but desiiing him to wait for me, I took off all my clothes, and with only my sabre in my teeth, swam by myself across the creek, where having ranged the opposite shore, and finding nothing, I again swam back, after which we all returned to the camp. ' ' At noon, making my report to colonel Fourgeoud, he was indeed astonished at this desperate action, which in fact he had not expected ; but I was no less amazed when he took me by the hand, entertaining me with a bottle of wine, and tB-dering Monsieur Laurant to set some bacon-ham before me, to find, however incredible it may appear, that the one wai actually sour, and the other creeping with live worms ; while my own provisions, 7iow his, which were fresh, were withheld from me. 1 loft Fourgeoud, his valet, his wine, and his rep- tiles, with that contempt which they deserved, alleviating my hunger with a piece of dry rusk biscuit and a barbacued fish, called warappa^ which I got from a negro. < On the 7th of January we marched again ; and in the evening we encamped near the Patamaca creek. Having marched a few hours longer the succeeding morning, we at last arrived at the Society post La Rochelle in Patamaca; such a display of meagre, starved, black, burnt, and ragged tatterdemallions, and mostly without shoes or hats, as I think were never before beheld in any country. They could be compared to nothing but a gang of gypsies, while their leader was not unlike Bamfield Moore Carcw, and myself at best like the forlorn Crusoe in his worst <^ondition, with my only check shirt and the one-half of my trowsers, the rest being torn away. Here we found a set of poor wretches ready to enter the woods which we had just left, and destined to undergo in the some manner the severest misery that ever was itiflicted cxi subUmary beings. I have already mentioned the prickly • f \ Vol. I. « P $0^ STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OP heat, ring-worm, dry gripes, putrid fevers, biles, consaca, and bloody flux, to which human nature is exposed in this climate; also the musquitoes, Patat and Scrapat tice, chigoes, cock- roaches, ants, horse-flies, wild-bees, and bats, besides the thorns, briers, the alligators, and peree in the rivers; to which we may add the howling of tigers, the hissing of ser- pents, and the growling of Fourgeoud, the dry and sandy savannahs, unfordable marshes, burning hot days, cold and damp nights, heavy rains, and short allowance, the reader may be astonished how any person was able to .«urvive the trial. Notwithstanding this black catalogue, I solemnly de- clare' I have omitted many other calamities that we suffered, as I wish to avoid prolixity, though perhaps I have been al- ready too often guilty of it. I might have mentioned indeed lethargies, dropsies, &c. &c. besides the many small snakes, hzards, scorpions, locusts, bush-spiders, bush-worms, and cen- tipedes, nay, even flying-lice, with which the traveUer is per- petually tormented, and by wl)ich he is constantly in danger of being stung. * The reader may form some conception of the famished state in which we came hither, when I inform him, that the moment of our arrival, observing a negro-woman supping on plantain broth from a callibash, I gave her half-a-crown, and snatching the bason from her hands, I devoured the contents with a greater relish than I have ever tasted any delicacy be- fore or since during my whole existence. I now observed to colonel Fourgeoud, how pitiable it was, not to regale his re- maining soldiers with vegetables and fresh beef or mutton, besides providing them with hats, stockings, shoes, &c. ; but he replied, that Hannibal had lost his army at Capua by too much indulgence. In short, he quoted not only Hannibal but Horace for his example, according to the advice given in a certain pamphlet, u Ibit eo quo vis qui Zonam predidit ;" and appeared fully convinced, that no persons will behave 80 desperately in action as those who are tired of their lives. *0n I was a proper, preparec behind i , have dis Among dared tc or even j At last { tattered < six oars, health anc tentment. *At D. butter, su me by m); notwithstai with, gave wine excep our wives Fourgeoud ble exertiot] during this certainly sc( mouth of tl lished their off from all ' On the i desire, and t ing and sing we went on ! the river, wi ribo. I step round to see * I next tears the nioi AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 899 * On the 12th, Fourgeoud acquainted me now himself, that I was at liberty to go and refit at Paramaribo when I thought proper. This proposal I readily accepted, and that moment prepared for my departure, with some other officers, leaving behind us himself and a band of such scare-crows as would have disgraced the garden or field of any fanner in England. Among these was a Society captain, named Larcher, who de» clared to me he never combed, washed, shaved, or shifled, or even put off his boots, till all was rotted from his body.— At last arrived the happy hour, when, taking leave of my tattered companions, I and five more, with a tent-boat and six oars, rowed straight down for Paramaribo, still in good health and in a flow of spirits, and at the very summit of con- tentment. * At Devil''s Harwar I met a cargo of tea, coffee, biscuit, butter, sugar, lemons, rum, and 20 bottles of claret, sent me by my friends, directed to La Rochelle, which I again, notwithstanding the barbarous usage that I had so lately met with, gave all in a present to poor Fourgeoud, 12 bottles of wine excepted, which we drank in the barge to the healths of our wives and mistresses; nor could I help pitying colonel Fonrgeoud, whose age (he being about sixty) and indefatiga- ble exertions claimed the attention of the most indifferent : for during this trip, though but few rebels were taken, he had certainly scoured the forest from the river Comewina to the mouth of the Wana creek, dispersed the enemy, and demo- lished their habitations, fields, and gardens, and thus cut them off from all prospect of support. * On the evening of the I3th, we supped at the estate Mon- desire, and thence kept rowing down all night and day, shout- ing and singing till the 15th at noon, when, the tide sening, we went on shore at the fortress Amsterdam; whence crossing the river, Ave arrived before Mr. De Lamar's door at Parama- ribo. I stept ashore among u crowd of friends, who all flocked round to see and to welcome me to town. ' I next sent for my inestimable Joanna, who burst into tears the moment she beheld me, not only for joy at my still 111' aHM 1 S^o 1 1; i 800 STEDMAN'8 NARRATIVE OP existing (for it had been reported that I was no more) but also from seeing my very distressed situation. * As a specimen of colonel Fourgeoud's justice I will only observe, that all the officers had now subsisted a whole year upon a private soldier^s allowance of salt provisions. This accommodatioa cost me 30/. ; but many of the officers were under tlie necessity of selling their effects to procure a subsis^r tence. * On the Ist of February, I'^l^^, we, however, received notice that henceforth we shoula pay nothing, provided we could Jast ; but that if we could not, 10/. yearly was to be the ne plm ultra of the expences for our salt beef and pork. On the 2d I received intelligence that lieutenant-colonel Bec- quer, scorning any longer to partake of Fourgeoud's bounty, had suddenly given up the ghost, by which in rotation I be- came possessed of his vacant company. This was some com^ pensation for so much trouble and fatigue. ' On the 16th, the news arrived that colonel Fourgeoud, with the remaining troops, having marched from La RocheUe, had been attacked by the rebels ; and amongst others captain Fredericy, marching in the front, had been shot through both thighs. This brave officer, clapping both his hands on the wounds, and sitting in water up to his breast to conceal the bleeding, and prevent his misfortune from discouraging the troops, remained in this situation until the surgeon had dressed them, when he was carried in his hammock by two negroes. ,..* I now made another offer to join him in the woods; bat instead of permission, he sent me orders to hasten to L'Espe. ranee, in English the Hope estate, as I shall henceforth call it, situated in the upper part of Rio Comewina, there to take the command of the whole river during his absence ; which being new to me, I repmred to this post with the greater sa* tjsfaction. * Having provided myself with a complete camp-equipage, and purchased provisions, I was soon ready to depart for my new station. But before I leave Paramaribo, I must remark, that during my i stay there no less than nine negroes had each a leg cut nishment and is pei executed I ring this ii smoaked received a Jities, foui fifth destr bleeding t are commc boats and of an arm \ an Europe * I emba river Com negroes, hj On the 19t tiiis river st ing border^ * Here t with the I marshy as officers wei struction ; been servio men, was estate. * About I renbeek; w the hospital quartered number of r the men''s cli by dozens a remedying t bottoms of q AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 301 a leg cut off, for running away from their masters. This pu- nishment is a part of the Surinam administration of justice, and is performed at the desire of the proprietor, and was ex- executed by a Mr. Greuber, the surgeon of the hospital. Du- ring this inhuman operation, the poor sufferers very deliberately smoaked their pipe of tobacco. For this service the surgeon received about 61. a limb : but, notwithstanding his great abi'- lities, four of them died immediately after the operation. A fifth destroyed himself, by plucking away the bandages and bleeding to death during the night. These amputated negroes are common in this colony, and are employed in rowing the boats and barges of their masters. Others are seen deprived of an arm ; and this is the forfeit for daring to raise it against an European. * I embarked on the 17th of February for the Hope, in the river Comewina^ on board a decent tent-boat rowed by six negroes, having once more bid adieu to my beloved Joanna. On the 19th, about noon, I reached the Hope ; having found this river still more charming than the river Cottica, both be- ing bordered with beautiful estates of coffee and sugar. * Here the troops were lodged in temporary houses built with the manicole-tree ; but the situation was so low and marshy as at spring-tides to be entirely under water. The o£ficers were all crowded in one apartment of the same con- struction; while the planter''s fine house, which might have been serviceable for. the pleasure and health of these gentle- men, was made use of by nobody but the overseer of the estate. ' About a cannon-shot higher up the river is the estate Cla- renbeek ; where I went, on the 22d, to examine the state of the hospital, and where I found the troops more disagreeably quartered than at the Hope, owing chiefly to the amazing number of rats, with which this place was infested, destroying the men''s clothes and provisions, and running over their faces by dozens as they Jay in their hammocks. The only mode of remedying this horrid inconvenience, was to break holes in the bottoms of quart bottles, and then string them like lK?ads upon 802 STEDM AN'S N A HR ATI VE OF ./•■■■' r the lashings of each haniincx;k, both at head and foot ; when this was properly done, their polish rendered it impossible for the rats to reach the canvas. * I became daily %iore charmed with my situation ; 1 was at liberty to breathe freely, and my prospects of future content- ment promised amply to compensate for my past hardships and mortifications. Respected as the prince of the river; caressed by the neighbouring planters, who plentifully sup- plied me with presents of game, fish, fruit, and vegetables, I was scarcely the same man, and had very few wishes unsa- tisfied. ' One day (the 6th of March) during my residence here, I was surprized by the waving of a white handkerchief from a tent-boat that was rowing up the river ; when to augment my happiness, it unexpectedly proved to be my mulatto, accom- panied by her aunt, who now preferred Fauconberg estate, four miles above the Hope, to residing in town ; and to this plantation I immediately accompanied them. * Here Joanna introduced me to a venerable old slave, her grandfather, who made me a present of half a dozen fowls. — He was grey-headed and blind, but had been comfortably sup- ported for many years through the attention of his numerous offspring. He told me he was born in Africa, where he had once been more respected than any of his Surinam masters ever were in their country. On the 6th of March I returned to the Hope, loaded with fowls, aubergines, brocoli, agoma, and a few Surinam cherries. * I have already said that I was happy at the Hope ; but how was my felicity augmented, when Mr. and Mrs. Lolkens came to visit me one evening, and not only gave me the ad- dress of Messrs. Fassalage and Son at Amsterdam, the new proprietors of my mulatto, but even desired me to take her to the Hope, where she would be more agreeably situated than either at Fauconberg or Paramaribo. This desire was unques» tionably most readily complied with by me; and I immediately set my slaves to work, to build a house of manicole-trees for her reception. Tnt " BEI estate Fa ing undei Joanna, i larlyfor ] request of without d ledged, ar • This I Loikens, v success. I * I now the plantatj her presen never two j iws in the : mony, we h our limbs it now my po beauty, the * Colonel paign, was c berg. Aboi tioned on di the Hope u oblige ine ari to keep the j I dispatched 1 1 " ' 306 STEDMAN S NARRATIVE OP * Colonel Foiir/;c'oii(l inoveil on the iiOth, with all the troops, from Ma^ a hatchet at one blow; with which having played at bowls upon the beach, he next cut the skin with a knife from his back, which he spread over one of the cannon to keep the priming dry." — Thus ended the history of Mr. Schults; when Cojo, with young Tamera, departed, and left me to go, with an increased impatience, io receive the news, that I soon was to expect from Amsterdam, viz. when the deserving Joanna AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. S09 >1iouid be free from the villainy of such pests of human nature. ' On the 28th, colonel Fourgeoud arrived about 10 o'clock with one of liis officers, and with the very devil painted in his countenance, which alarmed me much. I, however, instantly introduced him to my cottage, where he no sooner saw my mate, than th^ clouds (like a vapour by the sun) „ere dispel- led from his gloomy forehead; and I must confess, that I never saw him behave with more civility. Having entertained him in the best manner we were able, aad now related the story of the Hellespont, he laughed heartily at the stratagem, and giving us both a shake by the hanil departed to New Rosen- back, in good humour and perfectly contented. ' Here I spent the mo<»t agreeable hours, constantly accom- panied by my young mulatto, upon this elysian plantation — but alas ! all at once, in the midst of my hopes, mv truly halcy m days were blasted, and I was almost plunged 'nto despair, by receiving the fatal news of the death of Mr. Pas- salage at Amsterdam, to whom I had written to obtain my mulatto's manumission ; and what must certainly redouble my distress, was the situation in which she proveil to be, })roniis- ing fair to be(tome a mother in the space of a few months. It was now that I saw a thousand horrors intrude all at once upon my dejected spirits; not only my friend but my offspring to be a slave, and a slave under such a government !.— Mr. Passalage, on whom I relied, dead — the whole estate going to be so'd to a new master — I could not bear it, and was totally distracted ; nay, nuist; have died of grief, hud not the mild- ness of her grief supported me, by suggesting the flattering hopes that Lolkens would be still our friend. * Having, on the 12th, swam twice across the river Cottica, which is above half a mile broad, I came home in a shiver, and next day imd an intermitting fever: by abstaining, how- ever, from a'.iimal food, and using plenty of acid with my drink, I had no doubt of getting; well in a few days; the more so, as tamaiinds grew here in profusion. ' Indeed, on the lOth, 1 was almost perfectly recovered, (weakness excepted) when about ten in the morning, as i was 'I - '% ■ m^t» ■■ ^ i^f$ »)m,w .. ^.. . rf:; .. i^ 310 STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OF sitting with Joanna before my cottafje, I liad an unexpected visit from a Mr. Steger, who haj)pc'necl to be one of our sur- geons. After liaving felt my pulse, and examined my tongue, he declared without ceremony that I should be dead before the morrow, unless without furiiier delay I made use of ! is prescrip- tion. I acknowledge the sentence staggered me so much that, though at other times I never used medicines at all, I instantly swallowed the do'-.e, which he had prepared for me in a tum- bler, without hesitation, but almost as instantly I dropped down on the ground. * In this manner I lay till the 20th, being four days before I came to my senses, when I found myself stretched on a mat- tress in my little house, with poor Joanna sitting by me alone, and bathed in tears, who begged of me at that time to ask no qi'.estionSj for fear of hurting my spirits, but who next day related to me the dismal transaction, viz. that the m v.ent I fell, four strong negroes had taken me vip, and b' ' c -ycao-* tion placed me where I now was; that the surgeon having put blisters on several parts of my body, had finally declared that I was dead, and had suddenly left the plantation, when a grave and coffin were ordered for my burial on the 17th, whicli she had prevented by dropping uj)on her knees to implore a delay; that she had dispatched a black to her aunt at Faucon- berg for wine-vinegar, and a bottle of old Rhenish, with the first of which the had constantly bathed my temples, wrists, and feet, by keeping without intermission five wet handker- chiefs tied about them, wiiile with a tea-spoon she had found mefins to make me swallow a few drops of the wine mulled ; that I had loin motionless during all that time; while she hai day and night, by the help of Quaco and an old negro, at- tended ;ne, still hoping for my recovery ; for which she now thanked her God. To all this I could only answer by the tear of sympathy that started from my eyes, and a feeble squeeze of my hand. * I had, however, the good fortune to recover, but so slowly that, notwithstanding the greav care that was taken of me i.y that excellent young woman, (to whom alone I owed my iii* } it was the 15th of June before I could walk by myself, during AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 311 all wliicli time I was carried on a, species of chair by two ne- groc;, supported on two poles like a sedan, and fed like an infant, being so lame antl enervated that I was not able to bring my hand to my mouth ; while poor Joanna (who had suit'ured too much on my account) was for several days follow- ing very ill herself. ' Great was the change fi'oui what I had been but so shortly before — then the most healtliy and most happy in body and mind, and now depicssed to the lowest ebb, in my constitution and my spirits. My friend Heneman, who visited me evei'y day, at this time told me that upon information he had disco- vered the medicine which had so nearly killed me to be oidy tartar-emetic k and ipecacuanha, but in too great a quantity, viz. four grains cf the first, mixed with 40 grjyns of the latter; the surgeon having measured my constitution by my size, which is above six feet. I was so umch incensed at this piece of stupiditv, that (m the 4th of June, having drank his Bri- tannic majesty's health in a rummer of Madeira, and the fatal surgeon coming to make me a bow, he no sooner put his foot on the landing-place, where I was sitting in my paJantjuin or chair ibr air, than, having previouiily clubbed one of the poles that carried me, upon my shoulder, I let it fall uj)on liis guilty pericranium, my strength being as yet too feeble to aim a blow. The poor fellow no sooner felt the weight of the pole, than li)rgetting tlie rest of 'uis compliments, he skip{)ed back into his boat with all expedition, with which he decamped as fast as the negroes could row him, to our no small enter- tainment, who saluted him with three cheers. ' Being still weak and unfit for duty, I went on a visit to u neighbouring estate, called Egmond, where the planter. Mon- sieur de CachelieiJ, a French gentleman, had given me a most hearty invitation, with Joanna, my boy Quaco, and a white .servant. * Having determined to ask leave of absence to go for scMne time to Paramaribo, in ho\)OH that exercise on horsel)ack might do me good, and on the 9th of August, colonel Fourgcoud arrived in the river at the estate Crawassilx), and expecting soon to renew liiti mauueuvres, I, on the 10th wrote hiiu a let- m f'iif ''; f lillt STEDMANTS NARRATIVE OP ter for the above purpose, and also for above six months pay, which was due to me. I was answered, on the 12th, not only with a negative to both my requests, which had been granted to other officers, but in so truly an impertinent a style, as I could not, even from himself, have expected — such as calling in qii('sti(m my zeal, thougli he knew I was sick; and refusing me my own money, or even the proper remedies and means of recovering. This incensed me so much, that I wrote him a second letter, to let him know I was incapable of doing or asking any thing unbecoming my character, but on the con- trary (ill as I was) ready to give him such proofs of my ho- nour as should leave him no further room to doubt of it, should he be pleased to put it to the proof. This epistle, W' f»' nrul unfit as I was for service, I followed in person two day vH', witli my French friend Cachelieu for my compa- nion and voucher, who gave me the use of his tilt-barge with eight oars for the purpose. * On our arrival I expected to see Fourgeoud raging with resentment, tl .t he would put me under an arrest, and ask an explanation of our last correspondence. But I dreaded not the worst he could do, after the many trials to ruin me which he had already put in execution, and death itself was almost preferable to his cruelty. * Monsieur de Cachelieu and I, however, were both disap- pointed. He not only took us politely by the hand, but soli- cited us to dine with him, as if nothing had happened. But this affectation I despised, and refused to accept his invitation wiiii contempt, in which I was followed by the French plan- ter. When, in my tarn, I enquired for the cause of his re- fusing my request, and sending me so strange a letter, this was the answer — That 30 or 40 of the Ouca negroes, who were our allies by treaty, had deceived him, in doing nothing while they had been in the woods, and during the time he had been at Pai-amaribo : that he was in consequence determined to push on the war with double vigour ; on which account he had not only forbidden me to go to town, but had since or- dered even all the sick officers to come up and to follow the enemy, while they had strength or breath remaining, not so AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. did tniich as leaving one at Paramaribo to guard the colours and the reginient''s chest, which had both been left to the care of a quarter-master. — This, indeed, was litercUy the fact; but to this he might safely, and without hurting his conscience, have added, the inveteracy of his disposition, with which he had determined to persecute me and some others to annihila- tion. < I now returned to resume the command at the Hope, where I found my friend Mr. Heneman (who was now made a captain) very sick, with several others. All these, as well as myself, were left without a surgeon, medicines, or money ; while as I stated before, the many hogsheads of wine sent from Amsterdam, together with scores of kegs containing preserved vegetables, and other fresh provisions, were for ever kept in- visible from the poor, emaciated, and languishing troops, for whom they had certainly been intended by that city. I indeed here made one more attempt to recover our property, but to no purpose ; money, medicines, wine, and refreshments, were all kept back. Thus did we continue to pine and lose strength, instead of gaining it. I mean the greatest part of us ; as for myself, I had the least cause to complain, being well attended by Joanna and my servants, who the next day all arrived from Egmond at the Hope, besides receiving presents, which were as usual sent me from all quarters. One additional inconve- nience I however felt — my feet were infested with chigoes, idiich I partly impute to liaving, during my illness, worn stockings and shoes while at the good Frenchman's estate Eg- mond. Joanna, with her needle, picked twenty-three of these insects out of my left-foot ; which being all hatched undfT the nails, caused, as may be imagined, the most terrible tOiinent, but which I bore without flinching, with the resolution of an Aiiican negro.' Ci^ptain Stedman, notwithstanding a dangerous relapse, was condemned to Hnger at the Hope ; while his beloved Joanna's critical ^tiuiti(Hi greatly contributed to his misery. His suffer- ings TTtre not diminished by the information he received from Mr. Ldkens, that the estate Fauconberg was again transfer- red, with all its dependants, to Mr. Lude of Amsterdam, with Vol. I.-(14) S R I 314 STEDMA>rS NARRATIVE OF whom he had not the smallest interest. However, this sentence was alleviated by Mrs. Lolkens, who insisted that Joanna siioiild reside with her at Paramaribo, where she should re- ceive the eare aiul attention that her situation required. Af- ter conducting his amiable partner to some distance, he bid her an affectionate farewell, after which he relates the follow- ing incident. ' At my return to the Hope, my indignation was scarcely to be restrauied within the bounds of prudence, when I found myself upbraided by iiiy mess-mates for taking care of my own oft'spiing : " Do as we do,"^ said they, " Stedman, and never feur. If our children arc slaves, they are provided for ; and if they die, what care we, should they be d — -d into the bar- gain ? Therefore keep your sighs in your own belly, and your money in your pocket, my boy, that's all." — I repeat this in their own language, to shew how much my feelings must have been hurt and disgusted with similar consolation. * The following morning, awaking by day-break in my ham- mock, the first thing I saw, when l(X)king up, was a snake alH)ut two yards long, hanging with its head downwards like a rope, and straight above my face, from which he was not one foot distance, while his tall was twisted round the rafters under the thatch. Observing his eyes bright as stars, and his forked tongue in agitation, I was so distressed ^liat I scarcely had power to avoid him, which however I did, by running out ; after which, I heard a rustling in the dry thatch, where the negroes attempted to kill him, but in vain, he having escaped, and thus I cannot say what species he belonged to. Being now by myself, and rather startled by this unwelcome guest, I shut up my house^ and lodged and messed with my friends the major, Heneman, and Macdonald. * On visiting my boxes, I now found that great depredations ha4 been committed by the ants, which are throughout ail Guiana so very numerous, and of so many different species^ that once I had a pair of new. cotton stockings perfectly de- stroyed by them in one night only. Those which frequent the estates are g^erally sipall, but very trqublesome. The only way possible to keep them from the reiuied sugar, is by hang- its master AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 315 ing the loaf to the ceiling on a nail, and making a ring of dry chalk around it, very thick, which crunihles down the moment the ants attempt to pass it. I imagined that placing my sugar- boxes in the middle of a tub, and on stone, surrounded with deep water, would have kept back this formidable enemy, but to no purpose: whole armies of the lighter sort (to my asto- nishment) marched over the surface, and but few of them were drowned. The main body constantly scaled the rock, and in spite of all my efforts made their entry through the key-holes ; after which, the only way to clear the garrison is to expose it to a hot sun, which the invaders cannot bear, and all march oif in a Hew minutes. That the ants provide fcr winter, as not only Dr. Bancroft and many others, but even king Solo- mon, reports, is found to be an error by the most modern investigation. In Surinam, indeed, there is no winter; but wher« there is, the ants lie dormant, during which torpid state they want no food. * Having written to a Mr. Seifke, to enquire whether it was not in the power of the Governor and Council to relieve a gentleman''s child from bondage, provided there was paid to its master such a ransom as their wisdom should judge ade- quate ; I received for answer, that no money or interest could purchase its freedom, without the proprietor's consent ; since, according to law, it was just as much a slave as if it had been born in Africa, and iinported from the coast of Guinea. This information now perfectly completed my misery, and I at last had recourse to drinking; which temporary relief, however, only caused my spirits to flow higher, in order to make them sink lower after its evaporation. ' During this conflict it happened that I was invited with the major to dine, at an estate called Knoppemonbo, \r "ihe Casavinicp creek, where a Mr. De Graay, the proprietor, .lid every thing in liis power to amuse me, but to no purpose.— At last, seeing me seated by myself on a small bridge that led to a grove of orange-trees, with u settled gloom on my coun- tenance, he accosted me, and taking nie by the hand, to my astonishment, pronounced the following words ; .^ if ii 111 816 STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OF ( « Sir, I am acquainted by Mr. Lolkens with the cause of your just distress. Heaven never left a good intention unre*. warded. I have now the pleasure to acquaint you, that Mr. {^ude has chosen me for his administrator ; and that from this day 1 shall pride myself in making it ray business to render you any service with that gentleman, as well as the virtuous Joanna, whose deserving character has attracted tlie attention of so many people, while your laudable conduct redounds toi your lasting honour throughout the colony ."" * No angel descending from above could have brought me qi more welcome message ; and no criminal under sentence of death could have received a reprieve with greater joy. The weight of a miil-stone was removed from my labouring breast; and having made Mr. De Graay repeat his promise, I felt I ^ould yet be happy. Soon after this I was surrounded by several gentlemen and ladies, to whom my friend had commu- nicated his generous intentions. They congratulated me on my seni»biHty, and on having met with so valuable an acquaint- ance. All seemed to partake in the pleasure that I now felt ; and the day being spent in mirth and conviviality, I returned to the Hope, much better pleased than when I left it, where next day the whole company was entertained by major Med- ler ; nor did we separate, or cease feasting up and down the river, till the 13th of November, when we once more spent the day at Knoppemonbo, ' Here Mr. De Graay, having bought some new slaves, gave a holiday to all the negroes on his estate; and here I had Uie opportunity of seeing the diversions peculiar to that pegple: the Loango dancing, as performed by the Loang-o negroes, male and female ; consisting from first to last in such a scene of wanton and lascivious gestures, as nothing but a heated imagination and a constant practice could enable them to per- fpnn. These dances, which are performed to the sound of a drum, to which they strike time by clapping of hands, may properly be considered as a kind of play or pantomine divided into so muiy acts, which lasts for some hours. But the most remarkable is, that during this representation, the actors, in* AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 317 •tead of being fatigued, become more and more enlivened and animated, till they are bathed in sweat like post-horses, and their passions wound up to such a degree, that nature being overcome, they are ready to drop into convulsions. ' However indelicate the above exhibitions may be, fashion has rendered them no more disgusting than any other diver- sions to the European and Creole ladies, who in company with the gentlemen crowd about them without the least reserve, to enjoy what they call a hearty laugh ; while such scenes would change an English woman^s face from white to scarlet.'* Fourgeoud, with all the able troops he could collect, whieh were now not much more than 100, had again entered the forest, where he destroyed some fields belonging to the enemy. But the negroes continued to elude his pursuits, and occasion- ally pillaged several plantations. On the 4)th of December, our hero received the tidings that his Joanna was delivered of a strong and beautiful boy, and on that same day he wrote to Mr. Lude at Amsterdam to obtain her manumission. Being now perfectly recovered, he wrote to Fourgeoud requesting: that he' might either be permitted to accompany him in the woods, or to go for some time to Paramaribo, but neither the one nor the other request was granted. * In this situation," says he, * I wrote a letter to town, to inform my poor friend that I was well, with which I went to. the river side to look out for a boat, and towards noon hailed: the tent-barge belonging to Fauconberg, which was rowing with the overseer to Paramariba This was, unfortunately, w new superintendant; and not knowing me, he refused to come ashore for the message. However, seeing the negroes rest upon their oars, I took the letter in my teeth, and leaped in- stantly into the river to dispatch it, knowing they would put me again on terra-^rma. Having thus swam with the stream, in my sliirt and trowsers, till I came within two oars length of the boat, I hela up the letter in my hand, and called out, **^ Who the devil are you, that refuse to take on board a piece of paper ?" When, being answered in French, ** Je suis Jean Bcarnee, paysau de Gauscogne, a voti'c service,"^ I M 318 STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OF had the mortification to see them pull away without a possibi. lity of overtaking them, or returning. * In this distress 1 had now nothing left but to perish, it be- ing irnpossibli! to swim against the stream, especially as 1 was incumbered with my clothes. I struggled, however, but sunk twice to the bottom in the attempt ; and must inevitably have been drowned, had I not caught hold of a projecting paling that was erected in the river for the purpose of catch- ing fish. To this I remained sticking fast; when a Dutch carpenter, who observed me from the top of the sugar-mill, called out, that the English captain was trying to kill himself. On this news a dozen stout negroes immediately leapt into the river, and having dragged me safe ashore (under the direction of my good friend Medlar, who was inclined to believe the report) lifted me upon their shoulders to carry me home. ' The disappointment, the danger, the anger, vexation, and shame (for there was no contradicting them) had by this time wound up my passions to such a height, and made such an impression on my spirits, that I became perfectly mad, and had almost perpetrated the act of which I was accused ; since, on crossing over a small bridge, I actually gave a sudden twist, Riid, from their shoulders, threw myself with a jerk headlong over the balustrades once more into the water. Here a second time I was picked up by the negroes ; and noAV the suspicion being confirmed that I intended suicide, I was put to my hammock, wilh two sentinels appointed to guard me during the night, while several of my friends were shedding tears around me. Having, however, drank some mulled wine, I enjoyed a sound nap till morning; when appearing calm and perfectly composed, my words, to my great joy, began to be credited, and the apprehensions of my companions were dispelled — Such was the danger to which I was exposed by the unkind and inhospitable behaviour of this Frenchman, who nestfly obliterated the memory of this transaction by his many succeeding instances of unprecedented barbarity. * The following day, however, by one of 'ny negroes and a smajl canoe; I sent my letter to Taramaribo. Seeing now AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 31d almut noon a melasses-boat at anchor before the Hope, in which was broiling in the sun an EngUsh soUUer and two ne- groes, I made the first come asliore, and entertained the poor fellow with a bowl of punch and a good meal of egj^s and ba- con, to his great surprize, he not having expectetl this kind- ness, or to be accosted in his own country language at this place. What were this man's grateful acknowledgments, whose name was Chnrles Macdonald, will be seen in the se- quel of my work. * I now, obtaining my friend Medlar's concurrence, took a trip on the 18th to Paramaribo; where I found my boy ba- thing in Madeira wine and water (which is often practised in Surinam), while his mother was happy, and periectly recover- ed. Having seen them well, and presented Joanna %vith a gold medal, that my father had given my mother on the day of my birth, also thanking Mrs. Lolkens for her very great kind- ness, 1 hnmediately returned to the Hope, where I arrived on the 22d of December. * The poor negro whom I had sent before me with a letter had been less fortunate than I was, having his canoe overset in the middle of the river Surinam, by the roughness of the water. With great address, however, he kept himself in an erect posture (for this man could not swim), and by the buoy- ancy and resistance of the boat against his feet, he was enabled just to keep his head aliove the water, while the weight of his body kept the sunk canoe from moving. In this precarious Attitude, he was picked up by a man-of-war's boat ; who, taking away the canoe for their trouble, put him ashore at Paramaribo. He kept the letter, however surprizing, still in his mouth, and being eager to deliver it, he accidently ran into a wrong house ; where, being taken for a thief (for refus- ing to let them read it), he was tied up to receive 400 laslies ; but, fortunately, was reprieved by the intercession of an Eng- lish merchant of the name of Gordon, who was my particular friend, and knew the negro. Thus did the p(X)r fellow escape drowning, and being flogged, either of which he would have undergone, sooner than disclose what he called the secrets of m) STEDMAfTS NARRATIVE OP his maaxera. — Query, How many Europeans are posaesRed of equal fidelity and fortitude V Fourgeoud continued to pursue his usual system of severi- ty. A soldier was shot by a court martial, and two youn^^ officers were sent to Eurq)e under arrest. His frequent ex- cursions into the woods had obtained him the title of the wan- dering Jew. At last, howevo*, he permitted Stedman to follow him, with some other officers who were actually in want, at a time when 15 hogsheads of fine claret, and 15,000 Borins, were waiting his commands at Paramaribo. On the 25th of January. 1775, a great number of Indians arrived in town, which gave captain Stedman an opportunity of seeing and de- scribing these people, who are the abori^nes of the country. They arc divided into casts or tribes. They are in gpn^al of a copper colour, and are yet a happy people, being unconta- rainated with European vices. This consideration leads our auth> )r to the speech of an Indian, in reply to a sermon preach- ed by a Swedish minister at an Indian treaty, held at Cove&> togue, of which the principal substance was as folio ^ : * " Do you then really believe, that we and our fathers are all, as you would teach us, condemned to suner eternal torments in another world, because we have not been taught your mysterious novelties ^ Are we not the work of God ? And can the Almighty not manifest his will without the help of a book .'* If this is true, and God is just, then how is it consistent with his justice to force life upon us without our consent, and then condemn us all to eternal damnation, be* cause we did not meet with you. No, sir, we are convinced that tlie Christians arc more depraved in their morals than we Indians, if we may judge of their doctrines by the general badness of their lives.'" * There cannot mdeed be a more laudable undertaking, than the endeavour to engraft divine truths on the pure minds of these innocent people, so wc»thy of instruction ; but 1 fear, and it is too observable, that the words of one good man will have but little effect, when the practice of the far greater num- ber of Moravian preachers settled amongst tliem on the banks ( T is an *T| lar: state that oi feature iips, a] Vol AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 321 of the Seramica river, where they endeavour to convert the negroes as well as the Indians, is in direct contradiction to his life and precepts. * Polygamy is admitted among them, and every Indian is allowed to take as many wives as he can provide for, though he generally takes but one, of whom he is extremely jealous, and whom he knocks on the head the moment he receives a decided proof of her incontinency. These Indians never beat their children on any account whatever, nor give them any education, except in hunting, fishing, running, and swim- ming ; yet they never use abusive language to each other, nor steal ; and a lie is totally unknown among them. To which I may add, that no people can be more grateful when treated with civiUty ; but I must not forget that, on the other hand, they are extremely revengeful, especially when, as they sup- pose, they are injured without just provocation. * The only vices with which to my knowledge they are ac- quainted, if such amongst them they may be called, are exces- sive drinking when opportunity offers, and an unaccountable indolence : an Indian's only occupation, when he is not hunt- ing or fishing, being to lounge in his hammock, picking his teeth, plucking the hair from his beard, examining his face in a bit of broken looking-glass, &c. * The Indians in general are a very cleanly people, bathing twice or thrice every day in the river, or the sea. They have all thick hair, which never turns grey, and the head never becomes bald ; both sexes pluck out every vestige of hair on their bodies, that on the head excepted ; it is of a shining block, which the men wear short, but the women very long, hanging over the back and shoulders to their middle ; as if they had studied the scriptures, where it is said that long hwr is an ornament to a woman, but a disgrace to a man. * The Guiana Indians are neither tall, strong, nor muscu- lar: but they are straight, active, and generally in a good state of health. Their faces have no expression whatever, that of a placid good-nature and content excepted ; and their features are beautifully egular, with small black eyes, thin lips, and very white teeth. However, all the Guiana Indians Vol. I. 2 S •tvf^ m m %y :■! mt STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OP disfigure themselves more cr less by the use of arnatto or ro- Gow. This, it must be alloweu, is extremely useful in scorch- ing climates, where the inhabitanta of both sexes go almost naked. One day, laughing at a young man who came from the neighbourhood of Cayenne, he answered me in French, saying, " My skin, sir, is kept soft, too great perspiration is prevented, and the musquitoes do not sting me as they do you : besides its beauty, this is the use of my painting red. — Now what is the reason of your painting white T [meaning powder in the hair] " You are, without any reason, wasting your flour, dirtying your coat, and making yourself look grey before your time.'' * The only firess worn by these Indians consists of a slip of black or blue cotton warn by iije men to cover their nakedness, and called camisa ; something like that of the negroes. For the same purpose, the women wear an apron of cotton, with party-coloured glass beads strung upon it, which they call queiou. Both sexes wearing these belts or girdles so low, that they almost slide down over their buttocks, and make their bodies appear wonderfully long. * In the inland parts, many Indians of both sexes go quite naked, without any covering whatever. The Indian wom^i also, by way of ornament, often cut small holes in their ears and their lips, in the first of which they wear corks or small pieces of light wood, and through their lips they stick thorns, and sometimes all the pins they can lay hold of, with the heads inside against the gums, and the points like a beard dangling down upon their chins. Some wear feathers through their cheeks and through their noses, though this is but seldcuti. — But the most unaccountablf! ornament in my opinion is. that the girls at ten or twelve years old work a kind of cotton gar- ter round their ancles, and the saaie below the knee ; which being very tight, and remaiiiing for ever, occasions their calves to swell to an enormous sine by the time they are grown wo- men, and gives their lim)>s a very odd and unnatural appear- ance. They also wear girdles, bands, and bracelets, of va- rious coloured beads, shells, and fish-teeth, alwut their necks, across their shoulders, or round their arms, but generally AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 328 above the elbow. Upon the whole, the Indian women,- na- turally disagreeable in their shapes, with their toes turned inwards, are still less attractive with their ornaments. * The only vegetables cultivated by these people are the yams, plantains, and bananas. Small fish also foi m a consi- derable part of their food. Their drink consists of various fluids. A drink they call piworree is a composition of the cassava bread, chewed by the females, and fermented with water, when it has something of the taste of ale, and will in- toxicate. It appears at first very extraordinary, that what has been within the teeth, mixed with the saliva, and spit from the mouths of otiicr^, should be drank without loathing by the people of any country : but those who hate read Cook's voyages will find that this practice was so common in the is- lands he discovered, that had he not complied with it, his refusal might have fatally offended the inhabitant?. ' The employments of the men are, as I have stated, but very few, and, indeed, may be comprized in two words, hunt- ing and fishing; at both of these exercises they are indisputably more cxprrt than any other nation whatever. For the first they are provided with lx)ws and arrows of their own manu- facturing, the arrows being of different kinds for different purf)oses. A few of the arrows are frequently dipped in the woorara poison (the bark of a tree so called), which is instan- taneously fatal. Their manner of catching fish is, by inclos- ing the eiitry of small creeks or shoal water with a paleing, shooting them with their trident arrows, or poisoning the wa- ter by throwing in it the roots of hiaree, by which the fish tiecorne stupified. and are taken by the hand, while they float on th'» surface of the water. ' Every Indian carries a c'/iib, which they call apootoo, for their defence. Tiiese clu^-^ are made of the heaviest wood in the forest ; they are about 18 inches long, flat at iK)th ends, and square, but heavier at the «)ne end than the otiier. In the middle they are tliinner, and are wound about with strong cotton threads, so as to be grasped, having a l(K)p to secure them round the wrist, as tlie sword tassels are used by some VM li mi 324 STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OP 11 r, « l! I cavalry. One blow with this club, in which is frequently fixed a sharp stone, scatters the brains. * The women are occupied in planting cassava, plantmns, and other roots, besides yams, &c. in dressing the victuals, and in making earthen pots, bracelets, baskets, or cotton ham- mocks. ' The Indian girls arrive at the time of puberty before twelve years old, indeed commonly much sooner, at which time they are married. They go about the menial services for their husbands the day after their delivery; then, however ridiculous and incredible it may appear, it is an absolute fact, that every one of these gentlemen lie in their hammocks for above a month, groaning and grunting as if they had been themselves in labour, during which time all the women must attend them with extraordinary care and the best of food. — This the Indian calls enjoying himself, and resting from his labour. Most of these people esteeming a flat forehead a mark of beauty, they compress the heads of their children, it is said, immediately after their birth, like the Chactaws of North America. * No Indian wife eats with her husband, but serves him as a slave : for this reason they can take but very little care of their infants, which, nevertheless, are always healthy and undeformed. When they travel, they carry them in small hammocks slung over one shoulder, in which sits the child, having one before and the other behind the mother. For an emetic they use the juice of tobacco, which they seldom smoke. * When the Indians are dying, either from sickness or old age, the latter of which is most frequently the cause, the devil or yawahoo is at midnight exorcised by the pen or priest, by means of rattling a calibash filled with small stones, peas, and beads, accompanied by a long speech. When an Indian is dead, being first washed and anointed, he is buried naked, in a new cotton bag, in a sitting attitude, his head resting on the palms of his hands, his elbows on his knees, and all his imple- ments of war and hunting by his side ; during which time his relations and neighbours rend the air by their dismal lamenta- til tl w ril trl eel thi S( th4 wl fisl cei str fri< / AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 325 lions ; but soon after, by a general drunken riot, they drown their sorrows till the following year. This practice, by the way, bears some aifinity to Dr. Smollet's description of a bu- rial in the Hig! lands of Scotland. At the expiration of the year, the body, being rotten, is dug up, and the bones dis- tributed to all the friends and acquaintance, during which ceremony the former rites are repeated for the last time, and the whole neighbourhood look out for another settlement.— Some tribes of Indians, having put their deceased friends in the above posture, place them naked for a few days under where the bones being picked clean by the piree and other fish, the skeleton is dried in the '.in, and hung up to the ceiling of their houses or wigwams ; and this is done as the strongest instance of their great regard for their departed friend. * Notwithstanding the Guiana Indians are upon the whole a peaceable people, they sometimes go to war among them- selves, purely for the sake of capturing prisoners, to which they are too much encouraged by the Christians, who receive them in exchange for other commodities, and make them slaves, which is too frequently practised. But these kind of slaves arc only for shew and |)aradc, as they absolutely refuse to work, and if at all ill-treated, or espcciali}'^ if beaten, they pine and languish like <^od turtles, even refusing fond, till by affliction and want tliiy are exhanstod, and final iv Kpire."* At this time Fourgeoud's corp^ was reinforceti with 240 men, under colonel Seyburgh, and \^ ho arrivei ' from Holland in two divisions. These troops were immediatelv iMicamped at Magdenberg, and captain Stedman, ha\ ing lakon leave of his Uttle family, set out on the 6th of Febn ary, 1775, on his fourth campaign. The commander, being now supplied with fresh troops, sent a whole ship load of invalid to Holland. Our hero, after his arrival at the camp, h ■' early lost his fife by an accident. * Two negroes.' says I'-e, * of the estate Goet- Accord being employed in hunting and fishing for Four- geoud, one of them, named Philander, proposed to me to accompany them in the wood, where wo might chance to meet with some pingoes, or powesa; but a hea\'y shower of rain mn 326 STEDMAN^S NARRATIVE OF I! 1 coming on, when we had only walked two miles, we deter- mined to relinquish the project, and repair to the small spot called the Jacob for shelter, to gain which we were obliged to pass through a deep marsh. Having waded till up to our arm-pits, Philander, who was the finest man without excep- tion I ever saw, began to swim, as did his companion, with one hand, holding their fowling pieces above the water with the other, and desired me to follow them. This I tried, hav- ing nothing on but my shirt and trowsers ; when, after swim- ming two or three strokes, I sunk to the bottom like a stone, with the weight of my musket ; but relinquishing it, I imme- diately rose to the surface, and begged that Philander would dive for it; who having secured his own to a mangrove, brought it up without difficulty. At this moment a thunder- ing voice called out through the thicket, " Who sommo datty? and another moto sooto da Bonny Jciry da dago? Who is that.? Who is tliere? Fire ! shoot! it is Bonny, kill the dog!*" and looking up, we saw the muzzles of six muskets presented ujx)n us at a very little distance indeed. I instantly dived, but Philander answered that we belonged to Magdenberg, we were permitted to come ashore one by one at the Jacob, and found that these trusty negro slaves, having heard a flouncing in the water, and seeing three armed men in the marsh, took it for granted that the r:;bels wnro rr"r.liig, headed by Bonny himself, for whom they had mistaken me, being almost naked and so much sun-burnt; besides my hair, which was short and curly, I entirely resembled a mulatto. Being refreshed with some rum, and having dried ourselves by a good fire, we now returned back to tlie Magdenberg, where I congratulated my- self on my escape. * It was now in the midst of the rainy season that Four- geoud declai od his intentions of scouring the woods ; and, in consequence, gave orders for two strong columns to march on the 3d of April. The reason for chusing this season was, that if he could now dislodge the rebels they must starve for want, which would not be the case in the dry months, for then the forest abounds with fruits and r< »ts of many kinds. This was, however, in my opinion, a false piece of generalship ; if AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 387 it be considered on the other hand, the dreadful havoc which the wet weather must produce among his troops, of which he killed, I suppose, at the rate of twenty to one rebel negro, ' Fourgeoud was himself of a very strong constitution, hav- ing been used to hunting and shootlag the whole of his life- time : to which he added temperance, and the daily use of his beloved tisan. His dress consisted of nothing but a waistcoat, through one of the button-holes of which he wore his sword ; on his head he wore a cotton night-cap, with a white beaver hat above it, and in his hand a cane ; but he seldom carried his musket or his pistols. I have seen him all in rags and bare-footed, like the meanest soldier. ' Accordingly in the morning, at six o'clock, -the two co- lumns set out upon their march, the one commanded by colo- nel Seyburgh, and the other by Fourgeoud ; to which last I had the honour to belong. Our jXMjr rjien were now loaded like asses. They were ordered to put their iire-locks in their knapsacks, of course the muzzles excepted : this was to keep them from the rain, which absolutely poured in torrents. Our course was south by east, up among the banks of the Teinpa- tee Creek, where we soon came to swamps, and were marching in the water above our knees. * On the 4th we marched again, our course south by cast, till two o'*clock, when we changed our course to south-south- west. The word of command being again given on the 5th, we unslung our hammocks, then marched south-south-east, and south hy east, through deep and dangerous marshes up to our breasts in water, and in very heavy rains ; in which helpless :'vhen hearing the fowls shriek, one negro pulled the rope, and the other ran to secure the invader by sitting on the lid : when this proved to be actually a young tiger, who would yet have cleared his way by beating against the box, but that it was immediately secured by strong ro))es, and drawn along, with the prisoner in it, to the river; where, being held under water, he was drowned, under the most vigorous efforts, by beating against the chest to efiect his escape. Captain Bolts ordered the skin to be taken oft', which he kept in remembrance of so very strange a circumstance. *• As I now seemed to be on a friendly intercourse with colonel Fourgeoud, I one day presented the old gentleman with a plan and bird's-eye view of all the encampment of Mag- denberg. which pleased him so much that he sent this (as he had done the first) to the prince of Orange and the duke of Brunswick, as a specimen of his militai'y manoeuvres, &c. This present had the desired effect ; for I not only became one of his favourites, but declaring his highest esteem for the Scots and English, he even promised to recommend me in particular at court. I was so satisfied with this change in hift behaviour, that I now took the blame of all former animosity on myself. His attention, however, was suddenly attracted by affairs of more consequence ; since, on the 14th of June, 334 STEDMA.VS NARllATIVE OP '< lit the news arrived tliat some rebel huts were tliscovercd near the sea-side ; that captain Meyland had iiuirched in truest of the enemy, witii 140 men of tlie Society troo])s, and had actually discovered them; but in wading through a deep marsh, had been first attacked by the negroes, who had killed several of his i>cople, (among whom his nephew, a young volunteer), wounded more, and beaten back the wliole detachment, after they had already passed the marsh, and were mounting fast on the opposite beach to storm the village. * In the mean time the disagreeable ne ./s arrived, tiiat ca|)- tain Brant was almost dead with a violent illness at the Hope, which was at present the place where a number of the troops were quartered, though no better than a pest-house, by the inundations ; and for the command at this place (as being one of his favourites) Fourgeoud now singled me out : declaring, that I might thank my sound constitution for bestowing on me this honour. From this conduct, I plainly discovered that all his friendship was entirely interested ; and I felt my resentment involuntarily rekindled against him, for thus send- ing me to an inglorious death, when he had so fair an oppor- tunity of employing me honourably on actual service. * On my arrival at the Hope, my orders were to send poor captain Brant not down to Paramaribo, but to Magdenberg. This young man, however, frustrated the tyrannical com- mand; for, justly suspecting it, he had set out with a tent- barjre to town a few hours before I came, where he was no sooner carried to his lodgings tlian he expire i, from the effects of a burning fever, and a broken heart. So man could be more regretted than captain Brant ; nor did Fourgeoud ever lose a better officer, or 1 a sincerer fiiend. ' Here I had an excellent opportunity of acquainting myself with the customs and manner of living of the West India na- bobs. A planter in Surinam, when he lives on his estate, (which is but seldom, as they mostly prefer the society of Pa- ramaribo) gets out of his hammock with the rising sun, viz. about six o'clock in the morning, when he makes his appear- ance under the piazza of his house ; where his coffee is ready waiting for him, which he generally takes with his pipe, in- fiL^ AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 335 stead ol' toast and butter; and there ho is attended by halt a do/en ot' tlic finest y^^^i'^S s'^ives, Ixrth male and t'emaie, of the plantation, to help him; at tliis mmtum-mnctoruvi he is next accosted by his overseer, wlu) regularly every morning attends at his levee, and having made his bows at several yards tlis- tance, with the most profound respect informs his greatness what work was done tlie day l)efore ; wliat negroes deserted, died, fell sick, recoiered, were bought or born ; and, alwvo all things, which of them neglected their work, affected sick- ness, or had been drunk or absent, &c. ; the prisoners are generally present, being secured by the negro-drivers, and instantly tied up to the beams of the pia/za, or a tree, with- out so much as being heard in their om n defence ; when tlie flogging begins, with men, women, or children, without ex- ception. The instruments of torture on these occasions are long hem])en wliips, that cut round at every lash, and crack like pistol-shot; during which they alternately repeat, " Dan- kee, niassera,'^ (Thank you, master). In the mean time he stalks up and down with his overseer, allccling not so much as to hear their cries, till tiiey are suliiciently mangled, when they are untied, and ordered to return to their work, without so much as a dressing. ' This ceremony being over, the dressy negro (a l)lack sur- geon) comes to make his report; who being dismissed with a hearty curse, for allowing- any slaves to be sick, next makes her appearance a su])erannuated matron, with all the young negro children of the estate, over whom slie is governess; tiiese, being clean washed in the river, clap their hands, and cheer in chorus, when they are sent away to breakfast on a large platter of rice and plantains ; and the levee ends with a low bow from the overseer, as it begun. * His worship now saunters out in his morning dress, v/Iiich consists of a pair ol' the finest Holland trowsers, white silk stockings, and red or yellow Morocco slippers; the neck of his shirt open, and nothing over it, a Umsc flowing night-gown of the finest India chintz excepted. On his head is a cotton night-cap, as thin as a cobweb, and over that an enormous beaver hat, that protects his meagre visage from the sun, 3M STEDMAPTS NARRATIVE OP which is already the colour of mahogany, while has whole carcase seldom weighs above eight or ten stone, being gene- rally exhausted by the climate and dissipation. 'Having loitered about his estate, or sometimes ridden on horseback to his fields, to v ew his increasing stores, he re- turns about eiifht o'clock, when, if he goes abroad, he drefwes. but if not, remains just as he is. Should the first take place, having oniy excliu'v^ijed his trowsers foi a pair of thin linen or silk bre»>ches, he .sits down, and holding out one foot after the other, like a horse going to be shod, a negro boy puts on his stockings and shoes, which he also buckles, while another dresses his hair, his wig, or sliaves liis chin, and a third is fanning him to keep off the muiquitoes. Having now shifted, he })uts on a thin coat and waistcoat, all v/hite ; when, under an umbrella, carried by a blacl; boy, he is conducted io his barge, which is in waiting tor him with six or eight oars, well provided with fruit, wnie, water, and tobacco, by his over- seer, '.vho no sfxiner has seen him depart, than he resumes the command with all the usual msolence of office. But should this prince not mean to stir from his estate, he goes to break- fast aljout ten o'clock, for which a table is spread in the large hall, provided with a bacon ham, hung beef, fowls, or pigeons boiled; plantains and sweet c ^ssavas roasted ; bread, buftei*. cheese, &c. with which he drinks strong beer, and a glass of Madeira, Rhenish, or Mozell wine^ while the cringing over- seer sits at the further end, keeping his proper distance, both being served by the most l)oautiful slaves that can be selected; — and thi'' is caJltKl breaking the poor gentleman's fast. * After this he tukes a bfok, plays at chess or billiards, en- tertains himself with music, hr. tih the heat of the day forces him to return into his cotton hammock to enjoy his meridian nap, which he could no more dispense with than a Spaniard with his .sksta, and in which he rocks to and fro, like a per- former on the slack-rope, till he falls asleep, without either bed or covering ; and during whicii time he is fonned by a coupl r of his black attendants, to keep him <. ool, &c. * About three oVlock he awakes by natural instinct, when having washed and perfumed himself, he sits down to dinnci-, P w & Fi-. AN EXPEDITION TO SURTNAM. 337 Atteuded as at breakfast by his deputy governor and sable pages, where nothing is wanting that ciic world can afford in a western climate, of meat, fowls, venison, fish, vegetables, fruits, &c. and the most exquisite wines are often squandered away in profusion ; after this a cup of strong coffee and a liquor finish the repast. At six o'clock he is again waited on by his over- seer, attended as in the morning by negro-drivers and prison- ers, when the flogging once more having continued for some time, and the necessary orders being given for the next day"'s work, the assembly is dismissed, and the evening spent with weak punch, sangaree, cards}, and tobacco. — His worship ge- nerally begins to yawn about ton or eleven o'clock, when he withdraws, and is undressed by his sooty pages. He then retires to rest, where he passes the night in the arms of one or odier of his sable sultanas (for he always keeps a seraglio) till about six in the morning, where he again repairs to his piazza walk, where his pipe and coffee are waiting for him; and where, with the rising sun, he begins his round of dissipation, like a petty monarch, as capricious as he is despotic and des- picable. ' The Hope was now truly a most shocking place of resi- derrice : here I much rcm'etted mv forincr cottaire, and sweet companion, the one in ruins, the other at Pavamuribo ; while, at present, not a man was to be seen without an ague or fever, or some other wasting complaint. The dysentery also began to make its appearance ; and to adil to our distress, we had neither surgeon, medicines, nor so nmch as a light, and very little bread left. I was moved with the situation of the troops, aiui again distrlbulcd all niy biscuits, lemoPL,, oranges, sugar, wine, ducks, and fowls, amongst the unhappy sulllrers, with a f«nv spermaceti candles. ' On the i23il I sent up to the hospital at Magdenberg two sick officers, Orieigh and Francen, with all the privates that could bear to be trans[K)rted ; and, on the 2Gth, two fine young offi- cers arrived, unfit for service by ruptures, occasioned by the slippery state of the grovnid in tlie rainy season. ' An order at last came for my relief, and I immediately set ou.. for Goot.Acc{»ord, in company with captain Bolts ; wljere Vol. I.— (15) 52 U if ■•■(Ml ■, ' "m. '**' ''■'■ J. ij .if *■ fc 1 ? 338 STEDMAN S NARRATIVE OF i ; the planter, Mr. de Lange, and his lady, received us with great hospitality. This sugar estate being the farthest that is cultivated in Rio Comewina, and consequently exposed to the neighbourhood of the rebel negroes, makes the slaves liable to their seductions; they are therefore treated with peculiar kind- ness and indulgence, to prevent then" concuning in any insur- rection, or being persuaded to leave their present situatirm. ' Here we saw a great novelty indeed, the young negTo wo- men waiting at the table all stark naked, as they came into the world. I was at first startled at the unusual appearance; and asking the cause, was modestly answered by the lady of the house, that it was ordered so by their mothers and matrons, to prevent (by such means of detection, said they) their too eai'ly intercourse with the males, and child-bearing, which would spoil their shapes, weaken their strength, and cramp their growth. Indeed finer made figures I never beheld than were both the men (witness Philander) and the women on this plantation, whose beautiful shapes, liveliness, strength, and activity, were inferior to no Europeans. * Next day we departed for Magdenberg an hour l)efore sun-set, against the advice of Mr. and Mrs. de Lange, in a small barge, covered only with a loose awning. AVe had not rowed above two miles when not only night came on, but we were overtaken by such a shower of rain, as had nearly sunk us, the boat'^s gunwale not being more than tsi^o inches ahoxo the water : however, by the help of oiu* hats and calibaslies, we kept her afloat, while a negro sat upon her bow, holding out a boat-hook straight before him to prevent us from being overset, by inadvertently running, in pitch darkness, against the roots of mangroves, &c. which thickly lined both the banks of the ri^ er all the way upwards. ' In this state of wet and obscurity, at ten oVlock at night, we came to the Jacob, being just afloat and no more; for Bolts and I had no signer leaped \i\K>n the beach, than the boat sunk with all that wa^ in I'.cr, the slaves luckily swimming a>hore. Alas ! amongst the wreck, was my jxwr box, with my journal, and all my paintings, which had cost me above I wo long years so much labour, care, and attention. I was tri tir sui hal hal all! my AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 339 truly distressed at this loss, when a skilful negro dived several times to the bottom, and at last brought me up my little treiV sure, which, though thoroughly soaked, I was very happy to have again in ray hands. Thus ended our shipwreck, when having drank some warm gi'og and slung our hammot^ks, we all fell asleep round a good fire, by which I made shift to dry myself, and, what was of more consequence, my papers. * The following morning we again set out, and rowed for Magdenberg, but about half-way our voyage was once more obstructed by an enormous tree which had accidentally fallen across the creek, so that we could neither drag the boat over nor under it. Thus we were again obliged to return to the Jacob, whence we now proceeded to Magdenberg on foot, through thorns, roots, brambles, and briers, and where wc finally arrived wet and bloody ; and my ancle, which had been nearly well, fresh wounded to the bone, the skin and flesh being quite torn away by the numberless obstructions to our steps. * Here we were acqumnted that Mr Orleigh, one of the two officers that I had set up to Magdenberg from the Hope on the 23d, was no more. Thus died almost all our gentlemen, who had been during the last month upon the hopeless Hope, from which now scarcely one single private returned in health ; and this, I am firmly of opinion, was greatly owing to the dry and burning month of June, when the sun suddenly scorched them, after mai'ching and even sleeping in cold wa- tery swamps, and constant heavy showers during the rainy season. However, I hitherto escaped by tlie strength of my constitution and gcH)d spirits, which I determitied by every pcjssible means to keep from depression, by laughing, whis- tling, singing, ants of heavy trees, in order to make our approach both difficult and dangerous ; behind these temporary fortifications the rebels lay lurking, and firing upon us with deliberate aim, whilst their bulwarks certainly protected them in some measure from the effects of our fire, we having a vast number of these fallen trees to it i' li.^ ,i ! i; i 348 STEDMAN^S NARRATIVE OF scrainhle ovor l)efore we could reach tlie town : but we atill advanceil in defiance of every obstacle. * IJeing now alMHit to enter the town, a rebel captain, wear- ing Ji tarnished gold-laced hat, and Ixiaring in his liantl a torch ot* flaming straw, seeing their ruin inevitable, had the resolu- tion to stay and set the town on fire in our presence, which, by the dryness of the liouaes, instantly produced a general conflagration, when the firing from the woods began gradually to cease. This lx)ld and masterly manncuvre not only pre- vented that carnage to which the common soldiers in the heat of victory are but too prone, but also afforded the enemy an opportunity of retreating with their wives and children, and carrying off their most useful effects ; whilst our pursuit, and seizing the spoil, were at once frustrated both by the ascend- ing flames, and the unfathomable marsh, whi( h we soon dis- covered on all sides to surround us. * I must indeed confess that within this last hour the con- tinued noise of the firing, shouting, and hallooing of black and white men mixed together ; the groans of the wounded and the dying, all weltering in blood and in dust ; the shrill sound of the negro horns from every quarter, and the crackling of the burning village ; to which if we add the clouds of smoke that every where surrounded us, the ascending flames, &c. &c. formed, on the whole, such an uncommon scene as I cannot describe, and would perhaps not have been unworthy of the pencil of Hogarth. * In short, hav'iig washed off the dus* sweat, and blood, and havinji refreshed ourselves with a dran. and a bit of bread till the flames subsided, we next went to inspect the smoking ruins ; and found the above town to have consisted of about 100 houses or huts, some of which were two stories high. * We found some knives, broken china and earthen pots ; amongst the latter one filled with ripe and palm-tree worms fell to my share : as this wanted no fire to dress the contents, and as my appetite was very keen, I emptied it in a few min- utes, and made a very hearty meal. Some were afraid this mess had been left behind with a view to poison us ; but this AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 349 suspicion, proved however, fortunately for me, to be without foumlation. * '^I'he silver plate I also purchafsctl from the men that picked it up, determined to carry it oft' as a trophy, and I have used it ever since. Here we likewise found tlnve skulls fixed upon stakes, the mournful relics of some of our own bra e people, ■who had been formerly killed ; but what surprized us most, were the heads of two younpf negroes, which seemed as if fresh cut oft'; these we since leai*ned had been executed during the night of the 17th, for speaking in mir favour. ' Having buried all these remains promise mi i^'y \r* one pit, we returned to sling our hammocks, u: Ic^ those beautiful and lofty trees which I have already mentioned ; but here I am sorry to add, we found the rangers shockingly employed, in playing at bowls with those very heads they had just chopped oft' from their enemies ; who, deaf to all remonstrance, • " Htbistlcss drove the laittr\l skul/s before, And dash'd and mangled sdl the brains with gore." * To reprimand them for this inhuman diversion would have Ixjen useless, as they assured us it was " Condrc fhssee^ the custom of ihe country; and concluded the horrid sport by kicking and mangling the heads, cutting oft' the lips, cheeks, ears, and noses; they even took out the jaw-bcmes, which they smoke-dried, together with the right-hands, t(j carry home as trophies of their victory, to their wives and relations. * About three o'clock, whilst we were resting from our fa- tigue, we were once more surprized by an attack from a party of the enemy; but after firing a few shots they were re- pulsed. This unexpected visit, however, put us more upon our guard during the night, so that no fires were allowed to be lighted, and double sentinels were placed ai'ound the camp. Thus situated, being overcome by excessive toil and heat, 1 after sun-set leaped into my hammock, and soon fell fast asleep; hut in less than two hours my faithful black boy Quaco, roused me, in the middle of uitch darkness, crying, " Massera, viasneraf hoosee negro, hoosee negro r — " Master, master ! the enemy, the enemy !'*'' Hearing, at tHe same mo- 350 STEDMAN^S NARRATIVE OF ill J ■H i:;^ I ifi ,,1 •i i ment, a brisk firing, with the balls whistUng tiirough the branches, I fully concluded that the rebels were in the very midst of our camp. Surprized, and not penectly awake, I suddenly' started up with my fusee cocked; and (without knowing where I ran) first threw down Quaco, and next fell down myself, over two or three bodies that lay upon the ground, and which I imagined to be killed. When one of them, " d — ning nie for a son of a b — ch, told rae, if I moved I was a dead man ; colonel Fourgeoud having issuetl orders for the troops to lia flat on their bellies all the night, and not to fire, as most oi their ammunition had been expended the precciding day." 1 took his advice, and soon discovered him iiV h'd voice to be one of oui own grenadiers, named Thom- 8ori. In this situation we lay prostrate on our arnjs until sun- rise, during which time a most abusive dialogue was carried on indeed between the rebels and the rangers, each party cur.sing and menacing tiie other at a very terrible rate; the former " reproaching the rangers as poltroons and traitors to their countrymen, and challenging the\n next day to single coml)at ; swearing they only wished to lave their hands in the blood of such scoundrels, who had been the principal agents in destroying their flourishing settlement.''' The ran,'»"ers " d — ^Ji'd the rebels for a parcel of pitiful skulking ras^rals, whom hey would fight one to two in the open field, if they dared but io sliew their uglt/ faces ; swearing they had r nly deserted their masters because they were too lazy to work.""—— After this they insulted each other by a kind of wai'-whoop, sung victorious song-s on both sides, and sounded their horns as signals of defiance ; when the firing commenced once more from the rebel negi'oe.'-, and continued diu'ing the night, ac- companied by their martial voices, at interr.tissions resounding through the wootls, which echo seemed to answer with redou- bled force. ' At lengtli poor I^'ourgeoud toc/R a pjurt in the conversation, myself and serjeant Fowler acting as interpreters, by halloo- ing, which created more mr-tli than 1 had been witness to for some time: he pr .niised tliem life, liberty, victuals, drink, and all they wanted. They replied, with a loud laugh, Uiat AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 351 ju- they wanted nothing frum him ; characterized him as a halt- starved Frenchman, who had run away from his own country; and assured him if he would piy them a visit, he should re- turn unhurt) and not with an empty belly. They told us, that we were to be pitied more than they ; that we « ere xchiie slaves, hired to be shot at and starved for four-p/ence a day ; that they scorned to expend much more of their powder upon such scarecrows ; but should the planters or overseers dare ta enter the woods, not a soul of them shouli' ever return, any more than the perfidious rangers, some of whom luight de- pend upon being massacred that day, or the next ; and ccn- cluded by declaring that Bonny should soon be the governor of the colony. * After this t'\ey tinkled their bill-hooks, fired a volley, and gave three cheers ; which being answered by the rangers, the clamour ended, and the rebels dispersed with the rising sun. ' Our fatigue was great ; yet, notwithslantling the length of the contest, oirr loss by the enemy's fire was very inconsi- derable, for which 1 promised to account ; and this n^ystery was now explained, wljen the surgeons, dressing the wounded, extracted very few leadj^n bullets, but many pel>bles, coat- buttons, and pieces of silver coin, ^.vliich could do us Uuie mischief, by penetrating scaicely more than skin deep, VVe also observed, that several of the poor rebel negroes who tvere shot, had only the shards of Spa-water cans, instead of flints, which could seldom do execution ; and it was certainly owing to these circumstances that we came off so well, as I have mentioned before; vet we were nevertheless not without a number of very dangerou.s scars and contusions. ' The rebels of this settlement being apparently sub;3ucd and dispersed, colonel Fourgeoud made it his next busirM3ss to destroy the surrounding harvest; and 1 received orders to be- gin the devastation, with 80 marines and 20 rangers. In the afternoon cap*^ain Hamel was detached, with ;50 marines and 30 rangers, to reconnoitre behind the village, and to discover, if possible, how the rebels could {)ass to and fro through an unfathomable marsh, whilst we were unable to pursue them. i! 1 : Ml I' 1,' !« 5S STEDMAN S NARRATIVE OF This officer at lengtli perceived a kind of floating bridge, amonsrst the reeds. * On the morning of the 22d, our commander ordered a detachment lo cross tlie bridge and go on discovery, at all hazards. Of this party I led the van. To our astonishment, we now discovered that the reason of the rebels shouting, sing- ing, and firing, on the night of the 20th, was not only to cover the retreat of their friends, by cutting off the pass, but by their unremitting noise l.i prevent us from discovering that tliey were employed, men, women, and children, in preparing warimboes or hampers filled with the finest rice, yams, and cassava, for subsistence during their escape, of which they had only left the chaff and refuse for our contemplation. This was certainly such a truit of gentjralship in a savage people, whom we affected to despise, as would have done honour to any Eu- ropean commander, and has perhaps been seldom equalled by more civilized nations.'' Colonel Fourgeoud enraged at being thus foiled by a naked negro, swore he would pursue Bonny lo the world's end; and immediately set out on this impracticable project without either provisions or ammunition. The men were put on half allow- ance, and captain Bolts with 130 rangers were dispatched to bring shot and provisions from Barbacoeba. But in tl r. even- ing this party rctuiucd, with a number of woundev, ' aving ^jeen attacked by tlie rebels in a swamp, where, agreeably to their threat, they made dreadful havock among the rangers, without hurting a single European. Fourgeoud instantly adopted measures for securing his letreat. * Here,"* says our author, ' I must rf mark in colonel Four- giK)ud, an instance of bad policy^ at least, though many have not hesitated to bestow upon it a harsher epithet. This even- ing, upon our return, \vhen we entered the ominous swamp in which captain Moyland had been defeated, he suddenly caught up one ot" the empty bread-boxes, and having stuffed a hammock into it, fio carried it before him as a shield, crying aloud to his men, " Saiivc qui pcutT At this moment a Walloon named Mattow stepped up to him, and said, " Moii AN EXPiEJ>ITION TO SURINAM. 853 colonel, but few can, and I hope fewer still will, follow your example. Drop your HJiickl, and do not intimidate your sol- diers : one brave man creates others, then foUow thy Mattow, and feai' for nothing.'* Upop which he instantly tlirew o;pen his boaom, and charging liis bayonet, was the first that mounted the opposite beach : this intrepidity ipspired the rest, and they passed the marshy swamp without oppotiition ; for which act of heroism this private marine was since mjide a lierjeant. The whole party reached the place of rendezvous at JBarb^- coeba in a most shocking condition; find so ended this expedi- tion, which, however, bad a tendency to disconcert and teijrify the rebels, who soon after retired to an inaccessible depth in the forest. The misery and hardships endured by the troops ^t this place is inconceivable. The bloody flux made 9. mp^t dreadful havoc amongst the Europeans, for tlie rangers had forsaken the camp, while Fourgeoud's inhumanity to the officers was such, that he would not allow those who were past recovery a marine to attend them. Stedman was oblig^ to slvare the scanty allowance made to his black boy, with the casual al- lowance of some mountain cabbage or palm tree worms. When a poor fellov died his effect* were sold at the rate of 700 per cent, and this infamous debt \v9Si accordingly stated in their accounts, A private marine, of the name of Sem, at this time, 6 wore, in the heat of his resentment, that he would cer- tainly shoot Fourgeoud, whenever he had an opportunity; which being overhead, upon condition of repentance, ' I bribed the evidence,' says Stedman, * not to inform against him, and so literally saved this poor rash fellow from dying o^ the gallows." On the 6th of September a reinforcement of about 800 m«i joined Fourgeoud, and at the same time that the rebels were again in motion ; but as the slaves who carried the burdens were sent home to their masters, nothing but skin an^ bciie, to be exchanged for others, the tr(x>ps could not move until the arrival of these * unfortunate beasts of buiden.'' Vol. I. J> Y ^>': '"rh^l K -ti ' i (il; !i M 354 STEDMAN'S NARRATIV S OF The fresh supply of slaves having arrived, the troops re- entered the woods. * Nothing,' says the indignant Stedman, * could be more diabolically cruel, tlian the persecution of the new slaves during this march ; not only overloaded and starv- ed, but beat like mules or asses by every ill-tenijMjred indivi- dual — for instance, I saw Fourgcoud*s black favourite, Gous- ary, knock down a poor negro slave for not taking up his load ~.-and the chief himself knock him down for taking it up too soon ; when the wretch, not knowing what to do, exclaimed, in hopes of pity, " O maasera Jesus Christus r and was ac- tually knocked down a third time by an enthusiast, for daring to utter a name with which he was so little acquainted .'' On this march Fourgeoud was joined by 100 fresh rangers. On the 19th colonel Seyburgh was dispatched to the river Cottica, with 140 men. Captun Stedman was ordered to ac- company this party. Shortly after our captain and a few rangers pursued a rebel, and discovered several huts l)elonging to them, but Seyburgh peremptorily refused Stedman and a few volunteers to attack them. In the eagerness of pursuit our hero tore one of his thighs in a terrible n»anner. ' Next morning,' our author proceeds, * on waking about four o'clock in ray hammock, I was extremely alarmed at finding myself weltering in congealed blood, and >vithout feel- ing any pain whatever. Having started up, and run for the surgeon, with a fire-brand in one hand, and all over besmear- ed with gore ; to which if added my pale face, short hair, and tattered apparel, he might well ask the question, * " Be thou a spirit of lieoith or goblin dmnn'd, , Bring with thee uirs of heaven or blasts from hell !" The mystery however was, that I was bitten by the vampire or spectre of Guiana : this is no other than a bat of monstrous iiize, that sucks the blood from men pnd cattle when the v are fast asleep, even sometimes till they die ; and as the ma- ^«r in whi|h they proceed is truly wonderful, I shall endeavour to give a distinct account of it. — Knowijig by instinct that the person they intend to attack is in a sound slumber, they ge* nei fan! biti deel woi oiii dis^ andl has as AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 355 nerally alight near the feet, where while the creature continues fanning with his enormous wings, which keeps one cool, he bites a piece out of the tip of the great toe, so rery small in- deed that the head of a pin could scarcely be received into the wound, which is consequently not painful ; yet through this orifice he continues to suck the blood, until he is obliged to disgorge. He then begins again, and thus continues sucking and disgorging till he is scarcely able to fly, and the sufferer has often been known to sleep from time into eternity. Hav- ing appUed tobacco-ashes as the best remedy, and washed the gore from myself and from my hammock, I observed several small heaps of congealed blood all round the place where I had lain, upon the ground : upon examining which, the sur- geon judged that I had lost at least IS or 14* ounces during the night.' After two days march Seyburgh*s party approached a quag- mire, at the edge of which he discovered several dead bodies of the rebels. ' Here,"' says Stedman, * it was evident that if I had been permitted to pursue the rebels when first discovered, they would have been between two fires, in which case fev would have escaped.' The loaded slaves and many of the marines, each man with nine days provisions on his back, remained entangled and struggling in the quag-mire. Stedman, who commanded the rear-guard, fearful lest the whole should be cut off, resigned the conunand to a lieutenf.rt, and with difficulty overtook co- lonel Scyburgh, whom he begged to halt till the rear-guard came up. This was refused, on which the captain returned, aiid at seven o'clock at night the last man was dragged out of the mud. * My solicitude,' says he, * for the people, powder, and provisions, instead of procuring me commendation, brought me now into such tliHficultics, and produced a misur !< s-stand- ing of such a serious nature, and so very distressing to my feelings, that it had nearly tenijjinatcd my existence. The reader may JikIm*' "^ i^y niorlilication, when I inform him, that, instojul of receiving tiio approbation of my commander, as I certainly deserved, I was inunedialcly on my arrival in 1 :5:1l ii . n tm 1 1.1* 356 STEDMAN'S NARKATIVE OF camp put under an arrest, to be tried by il court-martial for disobedience of orders. Colonel Seyburgh and I had never been on amicable terms ; and though, during the former pnrt of this march, he had treated me with apparent civility, yet; from this step it was evident that he was my mortal enemy. I must not omit, that though a prisoner (strange to tell !) I was ordered to carry my own arms and accoutrements, till fiirther wders. * On the ^4th, we took our departure very early, and di- rected our course S. and S. by W. when we jiasscd close by Pinenburgh, a forsaken rebel village formerly mentioned — I still a prisoner, in the most dejected spirits. * On the following day our course was S. W. through a ma- takey or trumpeter morass, which was very deep, and which we entered when we were all in a violent sweat by advancing too fast wliile upon hard ground : but the health of cmr men Was not made an object during this expedition, though so much wanted to succeed. ' Having got again upon a ridge, an accident had now nearly befallen me incomparably greater than all my former misfor- tunes put together ; this was no less than, having fallen into a deep reverie, while I followed the rear-guard, I impercepti- bly wandered away from the troops, till I was entirely lost and by myself in an unbounded wilderness. Quaco no sooner had missed me, than, poor fellow, at every hazard he rushed through the wood to recover his master, and by a miracle saw me as I was sitting under a tree, in the most dejected state of mind that it is possible to conceive, immersed in grief and abandoned to despair. ' I had this morning thought myself perfectly unhappy, but now would have ^ven the world once more to have been in the same situation. Good God ! entirely cut off from so- ciety, in a forest, surrounded by relentless savages ! while a deluge of rain poured from the heavens, and tigers, famine, with every woe and every danger, stared me in the face. Fare- well, for ever Joanna ! — Such was the picture of my mind, when on discovering the l)oy, I started up from the ground, and a new life instantly diffused itself through my whole frame. cal the thi$ we m AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 357 id, lie. Having now straggled backwards and forwards together for 9ome time, I called to the lad that I saw a pool through which the troops seemed to have passed, the water being fresh cloud- ed with mud : but to my utter disappointment, he observetl, that this puddle was only occasioned by a tapira (by some called the hippopotamus of South Amcric.i), uiid shewed me the print of the animal's foot in the surrounding mire. At this time the boy sheet tiars, crying, "• Mmscra^ xce deadcy we deader In the midst, however, of this distress, recollect- ing that, by the map, the river Piiica was due west from u.s, I determined to lose no more time, but to set forward without delay. * Thus having fresh primed my fusee, I ordered Quaco to follow me; but again to no purpose, my conij)ass being with the troops, and not a glimpse of sunshine, owing to the heavy rain ; till the black boy put me in mind that (m the south side the bark of the trees was usually most smooth. 'J'his in fact was a fortunate hint, and we proceeded through thick and thin, till, overcome by fatigue and hunger, we both sat down, and looked at each other, exactly like two victims doomed to execution. During this last mournful silence, we heard a sound like coughing and the rustling of arms, which, thank heaven! soon proved to be our own troops, luckily for us, resting near an old encampment, where the pursuing party from the river Pirica had lately lodged. At this moment, notwithstanding my present situation, I enjoyed an extraordi- nary degree of mental happiness ; which proves how much all good and evil are only of a relative nature. Having now been heartily welcomed by the other officers, I partook of some cold bfief and bread, and a gourd full of grog, as did also my poor boy. After this regale the party rose, and pursuing our march, we once more entered a quag-mire, or rather a mud-pool, the surface being too thin to carry us; through which having waded rill it was pitch dark, we were obliged to encamp in the very middle of it, the troops by slinging their hammocks in the trees, one above another, and the slaves on temporary rafts made alwve the sinface of the water, on which were also placed the powder, the victuals, &c.^ hi. 'i; m ■H \ l^il' i ' I ^! » i! H i 1 I. > v «58 STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OF After marching two days more, the party encamped on tlie* river Pirica, where Stcdman refusing to apologize to the colo- nel, was disarmed and placed under the guard of a sentinel. 'J'lie murines loudly declared their determination to mutiny in his l)(>half, and their favourite was obliged to use both threats and remonstrances to divert tliem from their design. The party finally arrived at Devil's Harwar on the Ist of October. ' I had written,"' says Stedman, * on the preceding day to «)l()nel Fourgeoud, informing him, that I was weary of exist- ence in my present state, and requesting that a court-martial might be immediately called ; and this letter 1 had sent by fi slave to the commander-in-chief. On our arrival at this station, I indeed found very hard means employed to bring me to terms : and such was the severe usage I experienced, that one of the rangers, called captain Quaci, exclaimed, ^' If in this muimcr theise Europeans treat one another, is it to be won- dered at that they should take a pleasure in torturing us poor Africans .f^" * At DeviPs Harwar, however, my stormy voyage drew to a conclusion. Colonel Seyburgh was evidently convinced that he was wrong, and knowing what must follow, now only wish- ed for a. handsome opportunity of extricating himself from the effects of his unmanly passion. On tlie 2d, therefore, he asked me with a smile, " If I had a heart to forget and forgive V* To whicli I sternly replied, " No !" — He repeated the ques- tion. — I then said, " 1 venerated truth, and would never con- fess myself in an error, unless my heart coincided in the acknowledgement — that this was a concession I would make to no man living, and least of all to him.'"* — He here grasped my hand, begged me to be pacified, and declared, " That he would make peace on any terms;" but I again drew back with contempt, and decidedly avowed, " That I could not agree to any compromise, unless he owned his fault in the presence of all the officers, and with his own hands tearing from his jour- nal every sentence that eould reflect upon my character."" The journals were immediately produced, my arms were returned me, and my triumph was attended with every circumstance that could add to my full satisfaction. I then frankly and sin- AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 859 ake cerely gave my hand to colonel Seyburgh, who gave a feast in honour of our reconciliation; and after dinner, to my utter surprize, produced the letter which I hail written to colonel Fourgcoud, which he acknowledged he had intercepted to prevent the affair proceeding to extremities : at the same time he acquainted rne, that Fourgeoud was encamped at the Wana creek, instead of lieutenant-colonel de Borgnes, who had fallen sick, and was gone to Paramaribo. A perfect reconciliation having taken place, and everything being now adjusted, while the troops having had some rest, we set out once more on the 4th for the head-quarters at Jerusalem ; but I was obliged to leave poor Quaco, who was very ill, «t Devifs Harwar, under care of the surgeon.' On the 9th, Fourgcoud arrived at Jerusalem vrith half of his party, the otiier half being sent to receive the coup-de-grace in the hospital at Devil's Harwar. Death had now become so familiar to them, that upon losing a friend or relation, the first question generally was, has he left any brandy, rum, or tobacco ? However, on the 15th, the indefatigable Fourgeoud set out again in pursuit of his enemies. Having discovered some cultivated grounds belonging to the rebels, the whole was destroyed, and the party after nine days severe march returned to Jerusalem. Distress and famine were now ready to attack even the offi- cers, who sat smoking grey paper, and chewing leaves and leather, as a substitute for tobacco. Our author was both naked and starved, with a running ulcer in his foot, and * To complete my misery,' says he, * the little blood I had remain- ing was in tico successive nights again nearly sucked away by the vampire-bat, or spectre : tlius I fainted away in my ham- mock, and was almost sorry to recover, particularly upon being informed by a letter that Joanna and her boy were dying with a putrid fever at Paramaribo. * At last, on the 12th of November, serjeant Fowler ai*rived from Mocha, with one of my boxes ; when this poor fellow, notwithstanding my situation, made me laugh aloud by pro- ducing a letter from his mother in Europe, which made him d(k) STEDMAN'S xNAttRATIVE OF extremely happy ; aiid whicli I must beg leave verbatim \q tmubcribe. ♦ " Duir Shunuy, ' " I have relayed yuiir girl troin tiridevail— .tiul your tthits frow the panbroker— the baby \» died — blessed be (ioat, >vhile I h(qp yow be living. 1 uin your lufliug niotlier tell death, ' " Muggy Fowler."* On the 14t}u a barge iiikil with »ick uiul dying was sent to the hospital at DeviPs Harw«r. Jiven Fourgeoud wos obliged to relinquish his comnmiKl and proceed to town, being danger- ously ill of the phrcn/y fever, and on the same evening Yam successor was attacked by the same disorder, which at this time had become very c(munon. The whole camp was also plagued by swarms of locusts, which devoured every thing that lay in their way. Our author proceeds : — * I have just mentioned, tlrnt, on account of a very bod foot, I had been returned unfit for duty by the surgeon, on the 19th of November; yet tliis day, December 5th, another sur- geon, with two captaias, and the adjutant, were sent to in- pect both me and a captain Perret, who was also sick. The surgeon gave his declaration upon oath, that we were incapa- ble of walking without danger, much more of enduring fatigue; but Seyburgh, who was still in his phrenzy fever, declared we should instantly enter the woods, though he should see u» carried in two leheel-bamms. Poor captain Perret complied to turn out, though he looked like a ghost, and could scarcely stand ; but I solemnly swore, that I would blow out the first mane's brains who dared disrespectfully to touch me : in conse- quence of which I was close guarded by a sentinel ; while the ■whole camp, ujwn my soul, now seemed to be composed of none but madmen. < On the 11th, intelligence arrived that the rebels had burnt to aslies the dwelling-house of the estate Killestyn Nova, with Mr. Slighter the overseer in it., ransacked the whole planta- :tion, killed and carried off 3S women, and chopped off th« ¥' .r-** AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 361 jumt utrith lanta- limb of a male mulatto child, to be revenged of its father; and that the Pirica rangers were in pursuit of them. * About this time, after having starved four months, my remaining stores arrived at last from Mocha, but three-fourths rotted and destroyed by the hlata or cockroaches: the remain- ing part I distributed among the sick people. But what proved truly acceptable, was the cheering account that Joanna and Johnny were past danger, and recovering at Paramaril)o. — This intelligence indeed so elevated my spiritf^, that the next morning I reported myself fit for duty, though God knows I was not; and to this I was the more induced by the want of fresh air, of which I was perfectly debarred in my confinement, and stood so much in need. * In eight days more, which was the SOth of December, be- ing actually recovered of the wo\ind in my foot, and Seyburgh of his phrenetic fever, another officer and I played him the following trick, for his bad usage. Having invited this gen- tleman, with his adjutant, and a few more, to see us act a farce by candle-light, we affected to quarrel, and beating out the candle, the door being well secured, laid on in the dark with such success upon a certain somebody''s shoulders, that, call- ing out Murder! he leaped out at the window. Nothing ever gave me greater entertainment than to perceive his agility; but colonel Seyburgh declared he would never more be a specta- or to our plat/."* Orders now arrived from Fourgeoud, who was recovering, to break up the camp, and proceed to the Wana creek. Afler marching several days above the knees in mud, and amidst heavy rains, the ti*oops reached the place of their destination. Here poor Stedman allows that his fuot was healed, but adds, * I had now extracted out of my right-arm two dreadful in- sects, which left behind them very deep ulcers. These are called in Surinam the bush-worms, and arc the shape and size (1 ibe aurelia of the common butterfly, .with a pointed tail and Hack Ijead. They stuck extremely fast in the flesh, and were extracted with a lancet They breed naturally in stagnated waters, in marching constantly through which they had at- tached themselves to my flesh. Vol. I.--(16) 2 Z c ■* A.«; IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 ISU4 12.5 ui Hi us ^ 1^ liio WUi. u m iiM 1^ ^ 6" ► ^. V] "^S %J^ .-% ^r '/ /A Photographic Sdences Corporation \ ^ .\j >' 4 13 WES I MA^N'tTREEr WKfiST^K.N.Y. MS80 (7 16)872 4903 4^ A^ ^ '^^ I! 362 STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OF * My heart now began to sink with accumulated disasters ; ray mind was agitated and depressed with a constant train of tortures, to which I could see no end, and I became weary of life. In this dreadful situation I fell upon my naked knees, and invoked the malediction of Heaven to fall on me, if I did not separate myself from my present commanders and this service, the first honourable opportunity ihai should offer itself. * The place of our present encampment was now intolerable beyond every description, being constantly overflowed, so that the ammunition and provisions were stowed for preservation on wooden rafts; nor could we step out of our hammocks without being up to the knees in mud and water, where it was most shallow, while the gnats and other insects devoured us alive. The consequence of all which was, that another barge full of dying wretches was sent down the Cormoetibo creek, bound for the hospital at DeviPs Harwar. This floating chanmeU houM weighed anchor on the last day of the year 1775. * To what good star I was obliged, in the midst of all our confusion and distress, I know not, but certain it is, that co- lonel Seyburgh having sent for me on the first day of the new year, not only solicited my future friendship, but declared he was K)rry for all the ill treatment he had ever occasioned me, foi which he principally blamed Mr. Gibhart, his adjutant and spy; then taking me by the hand, as a proof of his real re- gard, permitted me from that moment to go to Paramaribo, or wherever [ pleased, to refresh and refit until further orders; which had such an effect on me, that having instantly con- verted every drop of my rum into grog, we sat down, together with two other officers, and drowned all former animosity in oblivion, till we could hardly see one another. In this condi- tion I took my leave that very evening of my new friend and the camp at Java creek, and rowed down in the best spirits for Paramaribo. < On the evening of the 3d of January, 1776, at 6 o'clock, I arrived once more at Paramaribo, and found Joanna with her little boy perfectly well, after having both been blind for three weeks ; with whom being now invited to lodge, at the AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 363 clock, with d for at the house of my friend Mr. De Graaf, I was completely liappy. The following day I dined with colonel Fourgeoud, who now also was as sound as ever, and who gave me an uncommonly hearty welcome. * The colonel, in a word, was now quite the reverse of what he had been before, and upon the whole so very agreeable in his manners, that I would never wish to spend my time in better company; but how 1 should become at once the favour- ite of both these rival commanders, was a secret 1 could never yet discover, unless it might proceed from a desire of gaining me from each other, as they still continued mutual enemies ; be that as it may, I resolved to preserve the most inflexible neutrality, as I also did between them and the governor, with whom I was invited to dine the next day, and found as usual a truly magnificent entertainment. * On the SOth, observing a number of Indians and black pec^le of both sexes swimming at the back of fort Zealandia, young Donald Mac Neyl and myself completed the group, by stripping and getting in among them; and I mu»t confess I never beheld more surprizing feats of activity ift vtlie water, 4h^ were performed by the negroes, who fought, a sJmm bat- ■-- ^k, by plunging or rather tumbling like purpoises, when they struck each oth||r with their legs, as they never used their hands ; while ^^e Indians, who were of the Arrowouka na- tion, swam and dived like amphibious animals. Being sufli- ciently refreshed, we sat down upon the beach, near the 21 gun battery, where I had opportunity of examining the fea- tures and figures of one of their young females, as she ap- proached us, like Venus rising out of the sea. Her only dress consisted, both during the time she bathed and after, of a small square apron made of beads. In every other respect she was perfectly naked : nor could a finer figure be imagined — erect, vigorous, active, young, and healthy, which convinced me that whep the body is exposed, as it certainly was ordained by nature, the face is but little noticed. * On the l!8&.h, I was seized with a fever, and blooded in the foot, in which Uie orifice being strttck too deep, for struck ill '*;„ mm '■!■ ''fi: 364 STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OF it was as they bleed the horses, I again became lame ; during which time colonel Seyburgh arrived from the Java creek to recover, he being at last also taken very ill. ' In the mean time colonel Fourgeoud, while he was just ready to renew his operations, having already sent a small de- tachment to the Jew savannah for intelligence, reeeivrl letters from the Hague, with express orders to abandcm the expedi- tion immediately, and with his few remaining troops to sail for Holland without delay. ' In consequence of these commands on the 27th, the trans- port ships were put in commission, and all the officers aiid privates received their clearance, which made them very hap{^; and indeed all at Paramaribo were alive with joy, except some of the inhabitants and myself. * On the 14th of February, ill as 1 was with a bad foot, a sore arm, the prickly heat, and all my teeth loose with the scurvy, I found means to scramble out on crutches, wiUi 1,000 florins in my pocket, which having divided betweea Fourgeoud and Mrs. Godefroy for the redemption of the black boy Quaco, and my mulatto, I returned home without a shilling in my purse ; yet for this small sum of 500 florins, so inadequate to 1,800 which I owed that lady, she was induced generously to renew her persuasions of carrying Joanna and the boy with me to Holland. This, however^ Joanna as nobly as firmly refused, declaring, " that, independent of all oth«: considerations, she could never think of sacrificing one be»e>- factor to the interest of another; and that her own haj^iness or even mine, which was dearer to her than life, should nev^ ' have any weight, till the debt of her liberty was paid by me, or by her own industry, to the utmost fraction, and which she did not despair to see one day completed.'" Ski added, " our •^)aration should only be for a time, and that the greatest proof [ could ever shew hev o£ my real esteem, was now to undergo this little trial of fortune hke a man, without so much as heaving a sigh in her presence ;*" which last she spoke with a smile, next embraced her infant, then turned {suddenly round, and wept most bitterly. — AJt this moment I was called to Mr. AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 365 de la Mare's, who was just dead, where my melancholy liaving surpassed all description, 1 at last determined to weather one or two painful years in her absence. * On the 15tli, by letters from Holland to our chief, our return was again countermanded for six months. My oompa- nions were therefore suddenly cast down with disappointment, while I was suddenly revived, and now determined to save all my pay until Joanna''s redemption should be fully accompUsh- ed : but what grieved me very much was the other news from Europe, viz. that the Scots Brigade had been invited to Eng- land by his Britannic majesty, while i was lamenting that I could not possibly be one of the number, (the king's demand was negatived by the States of Holland). I at the same time had the offer of an American company under general Wash- ington, but this I refused without any hesitation, as may be supposed. * In short, on the 18th of February, the poor dispirited men were again sent up to Magdenberg, a large party still remaining at the Java creek ; whilst the temper of the officers was now so ruffied, that a Mr. Fisher of our corps fought no less than two duels in two succeeding days, dangerously wounding both his antagonists, who were both officers of the Society regiment. ^ On the 27th, a Society soldier was shot for mutiny ; and the day following a ship was burnt in the roads. This being the period for the sessions, another negro's leg was cut off for •culking iTom a task to which he was unequal; while two more were condemned to be hanged for running away altogctJier. The heroic behaviour of one of these men before the court de- serves particularly to be noticed : — He begged only to be heard for a tew moments ; which being granted, he proceeded thus: ' " I was bom in Africa, where, defending my prince dur- ing an engagement, I was made a captive, and sold for a slave on the coast of Guiii^a by my own countrymen. — One of your countrymen, wiio is now to be one of my judges, liecame my purchaser, in whose service I was treated so ciruelly by his overseer, that I dtserted, and joined the rebels in the woods. ^Si mM |M; \i^'m i I: 366 STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OF Here again I was condemned to be a slave to Bonny, their chief, who treated me with even more severity than I had ex- perienced from the Europeans, till [ was once more forced to elope, determined to shun mankind for ever, and inoffensively to end my days by myself in the forest. Two years had I persevered in this manner quite alone, undergoing the greatest hardships and anxiety of mind, preserving life only for the possibility of once more seeing my dear family, who were per- haps starving on my account, in my own country ; I say two miserable years had juf,t elapsed, when I was discovered by the rangers, taken, and brought before this tribunal, who are now acqumnted with the history of my wretched life, and from whom the favour I have to ask is, that I may be executed next Saturday, or as soon as it may possibly be convenient." * This speech was uttered with the utmost moderation, by one of the finest-looking negroes that was perhaps ever seen ; to which his former master, who, as he observed, was now one of the judges, made the following laconic reply — " Rascal! that is not what we want to know; but the torture this mo- ment shall make you confess crimes as black as yourself, as well as those of your hateful accomplices."" To which the ne- gro, who now swelled in every vein with indignation and inef- fable contempt : " Massera, the tigers have trembled for these hands, (holding them up,) and dare you think to threaten me with your wretched instrument.? No, I despise the utmost tortures you can now invent, as much as I do the pitiful wretch who is going to inflict them." Saying which, he threw himself down on the rack, where amidst the most excruciating torments he remained with a smile, ^vithout uttering a syllable; nor did he ever speak again, until he ended his unhappy days at the gaUows. * At this time colonel Fourgeoud and myself were daily vi- sitors of the ladies, in whose company no man could behave better, while I could often not avoid disgust ; indeed so lan- guid were many in their looks, and so unrestrained were some in their conversation, that a Mrs. N even asked me,^ sans ceremonky to supply the place of her husband; while she AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 367 might as well as have asked me to drink, for a relish, a tum- bler of salts. * Having < a the 26th once more saved a poor black girl from receiving some hundred lashes, by replacing a dozen of china, which she had broken by accident ; while another was stabbed by a Frenchman, who immediately cut his own throat from remorse, and his companion, an overseer, hanged him- self; and having visited the poor negro whose leg had lately been cut off by law, I packed my boxes to set out next morn- ing on my sixth campaign ; and once more take the command of the river Comewina : at which moment arrived at my lodg- ings six loaded negro slaves with presents from my hospitable friends, of every kind that Guiana could produce, and the colony of Surinam could afford me. ' Late on the evening of the 29th, we arrived at the Gold- mine plantation, where we found a negro boy and girl sus- pended by each others side from a high beam, by a rope fast- ened to their thumbs, which were tied behind their backs; this almo.'^ dislocated their shoulders, and must have occasioned the must agonizing tortures. Thus I cut the miserable vic- tims down, without leave or ceremony, and swore that instant to demolish the tyrannical overseer who had inflicted this new mode of punishment, unless he promised immediately to fbi- give them ; which he miraculously did in my presence. * On the 30th, a little before we landed at the Hope, I dis- covered that all my sugar, with the greatest part of my rum, was gone ; and detected the thief by the following laughable stratagem (though not of my own invention) — I told the ne- groes, six in number, that a parrot's feather was to grow within six minutes upon the tip of his nose who was most guilty ; at the same time pronouncing a few incoherent words, and making, two or three circles with my sabre, I shut myself Avithin the tilt : here, peeping through the key-hole, and ob- serving the rowers with great attention, without their perceiv- ing me, 1 soon saw one of them, at every stroke of the oar, put up his hand, and feel the tip of his nose ; upon which I instantly ran up to him, and cried, " i see the parrot's fea- ther I Thou art the thief, thou rascal !" To which the poor i It'-' cu 7M !■' I 1.! 368 STEDMAN^S NARRATIVE OF superstitious fellow instantly answered, '< YaWf me Tnassera r then kneeling to the sorcerer for mercy, and the others also intreatiog me tc »f)are him, I pardoned the credulous thief and his accomplices, who by their candid confession obtained a piece of salt beef for their dinner, and a gourd full of good grog into the bargain/ Stedman found the Hope had been much neglected, and the troops in great misery ; but his indefatigable exertions soon lessened the evils they suffered. Shortly after, Fourgeoud in- tending to scour the woods again, all the men fit for service were dispatched from the Hope to head-quarters, and only 12 crippled soldiers were left at this post. At this ti ne a severe rencounter took place between the rebels and the rangers, during which, the following surprizing instance of presence of mind in a rebel negro is related : A ranger having levelled his piece was just going to fire at l;im, when the man called out, holding up his hand, " What, s".r, do you mean to kill one of your own party ?"" Which the ranger believing him to be, repUed, " God forbid !" and dropping the muzzle of his piece, instantly received a ball through the body from his adversary, which killed him ; and who, having thus saved himself, disappeared like a fiash of lightning. One of the captive negroes related, that the evening before they were taken, a rebel, who had formerly deserted from Faucon- berg was cut to pieces with sabres, by Bonny's command, as two others had been before Gado-Saby was taken. * On the 8th of May," says our author, ' Joanna, with her boy, arriving at this place, I promised myself a scene of hap- piness equal to that 1 experienced in 1774 ; especially as my family, my sheep, and my poultry, were now doubled ; be- sides, I had at this time a beautiftil garden, and if I could not with propriety be called a planter, I might at least claim, with some degree of justice, the name of a little farmer. * The slaves of the Hope and Fauoonberg also testified their respects for Joanna and her boy, by bringing in presents of fowls, fruit, eggs, venison, and fish. Thus every thing seem- ed to contribute to our felicity, which was however consider- ably allayed by the disagreeable news we rec^ved on the 18th» AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 369 ft 3)9 her lap- my be- )uld leir of ler- iut'oi-ming mo of the death of my dear friend, Mr. Walter Kennedy, shortly after his arrival in Holland; it was now also confirmed that the Dutch had refused the Scots Brigade to his Britannic majesty ; which greatly surprized me, as I consider- ed it as a claim not only from affinity, but also by treaty. ' To amuse my mind from these unpleasing subjects, I now paid a short visit to my French acquaintance Monsieur Cache- lieu, at his plantation Egmond. Here, amongst other compa- ny, [ met with an Italian, a planter, called D'O— — s, who had but one arm; with which, however, he took up a knife at table, aud without the smallest provocation, as I sat next him» maldc a back thrust at me, to the astonishment of all who were present. Having fortunately parried the blow by beating up his elbow, which occasioned the point of his knife to pass over my shoulder, I started up, and w^s going to put hitti instantly to death ; but this being prevented, 1 offered to fight him with one hand tied behind me, and with any ijistrument he chose, fist, bludgeon, sword, pistol, or even knife; this the cowardly assassin having refused, was kicked out of company, aod sent home to his plantation called Hazard. >. < So violent was this unhappy ipan^s disposition, that some little time before, he ordered a poor negro woman, who was advanced eight months in her pregnancy, to be flogged, until her intestines appeared, and that only for breaking a tumbler. One pf his male slaves, trying to evade his Severity, was shot dead on the spot ; and there was not a slave belonging to his estate but was cut by the lash of his whip from the nejQk.to the heel. ;: !fini*)*) f rm?n.'' ' Colonel Fourgeoud now sending a proper supply of men; vf'ith a surgeon and medicines, the Hope wore a more pleasing aspect, and health and content began to be visible in every countenance. It was now truly a charming habitation, being perfectly dry even in spring-tides, and washed by pleasing canals that let in the fresh-water every tide; while the hedges surrounding the fields and garden^ were neatly cut, and pro- duced fruit and vegetables of many species for our use. The houses and bridges were also all repaired, while the strictest «>dherence to cleaoUness was recommended and enforced among Vol. I. 3 A 1 ;i '■> > /"Hi 1' 1 m m M'lMn ■IMM ^i.i'! .S.I •] 370 STEDMAVS NARRATIVE OF the men : by these inenns not one sick jKTson out of fifty was now to Ik* found, where sloth, stench, and (U«ease had so lately spread their di*structive influence, and to wliieh the land and sea-scurvy had ^^iven the most fatal assistance. * But we soon experiencetl that no scene of perfect felicity can be lasting, for the dry season now suddenly setting in, dis- ease and mortality once more began to rage among us, 10 or 12 men dymg daily at the Ja\ a creek and Magdcnberg, whilo those under my command at the Hope diminished hourly. * On th^ 4th of June, the spring-fltxxl broke down my dams while we were drinking the king's health, and laid the whole post uiider Water, which creatal vast confusion; and in this distress the overseer Blenderman refused to lend me any assist- iknce, which occasioned so violent a quarrel, that he was glad to take to his heels, and make his escape from the plantation. I shall never have done mentioning the insolence of these sa- vage brutes, who mostly are tlie refuse of the earth, brought up in Gremiany) or elsewhere, under tlie cane of a corporal. *' Wefl,** sgid one of these miscreants ironically to an (MJree negro, " don''t you believe that the monkies are « race of damn'd Christians, who have been thus transformed for shew- ing sd much Jenity to such as you ?" — " No, sir,** replied the IMvii man, " we do not think that the monkies are damned C -ims ; but I, and all of us, believe that many who call tiieftiselves Christians are a pack oi' damned monkies.'*^— Whidi pointed repartee afforded me infinite satisfaction. - * On the l6th I was visited by a neighbouring gentleman^ whom I conducted up my ladder ; but he had no sooner en- toped my aerial dwelling, than he leapt down from the top to tiv^ ground, roaring like a madman with agony and pain, after which iie instantly plunged his head into the river; but look- ing vip, i soon discovered the cause of his distress to be an enormous nest of wild bees or zmssee-wass^e, in the thatch, directly above my head, as I stood > within my door ; when I imnnediately took to my heels as he had done, and <»'dered them to be demdi^ied by my slaves without dday. A tar tnop was now brought, and the devastation just going to com- nence, when an old n^ro stepped up, and offered to receive AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 371 any punislimcnt I should decree if ever one of these l)ee!> shouJd sting nif in person. " Mat^scra,'*" said he, " they would iiava stung you long ere now had you lieen a stranger to theui; but they l)eing your tenants, that is grailually aUuwed to build upon your premises, they assuredly know Ixrth you and your's, and will never hurt eitlier you or them.'" I instantly assented to the })ro)K)sition, and tying the old black man to a tree, or- dered my boy Quaco to ascend the ladder quite naked, which he did, and was not stung; I then ventured to follow, and I declare upon my honour, that even after shaking the nest, which made its inhabitants buz almut my cars, not a single bee attempted to sting me. I next teleased the old negiro, and rewarded him with a gallon of rum and five shillings for Uic discovery. This swarm of bees 1 since kept unhurt, as my body-guards, and they have made many overseers take a des- perate leap for my amusement, as I generally sent them up my ladder upon some fiivolous message, when 1 widb;d to punish them for injustice and cruelty, whicli was not seldom. * On the 23d, I received p>sitive orders to prepare and be ready on the 15th of July, to break up, with all the troops under my command, leave the river Cumewina, and row down to Paramai'ibo, where the transport ships were put in commis- sion to convey us back to Holland. This order 1 instantly read before the front to all my men, who received it with un- bounded joy and three clteers — but I alone sighed bitterly.—— Oh my Joanna ! Oh my boy ! who were at this time both dangerously ill, the one with a fever, the otlier with convulr sions, so that neither were expected to survive. Add to this, that I ran a nail quite through my foot-— thus was completely miserable. * On the 14th, 1 removed my flag from the Hope to the barges ; and in the evening took my last iarewell of Joanna^s relations on the Fauconberg estate; who, crowding round me, expressed their sorrow aloud at niy departure, and with tears invoked the protection of Heaven for my safe and prosperous voyage. * * On the 15th, we ihially left the Hope; and, on the 18th, the whole fleet, consisting of my own barges, together with iA: :ir *'"*' ^r 1 ■ ;'•! i! m M I ^n STEDMAN^S NARRATIVE OF three from Magdenbcr|T, und those from the river Cottica, ar- rived safe at anchor in the roads of Paramaribo, where three transports lay ready to receive us, on board of which vessels I immediately embarked all the troops that had come down un- der my command.'' Joanna and her boy having come down to Paramaril)o, cap- tain Stcdman took his leave of this interesting woman and hi« boy, and the whole heet, with the poor remains of Four- gcoud's regiment, prepared to sail. Just at this moment a ship entered the river with dispatches, inclosing an order for the troops inmiediately to re-enter the xcxxxh. On reading thi?i order from the quarter-d^ck of each ves«?!, ' I never,' says our author, * saw such dejection, disappointment, and despair, so strongly marked : while at this moment I, who but just be- fore had been completely miserable, was now in turn the pnly one who was not depressed with sorrow. * In the midst of this gloomy scene, the men were ordered to give three cheers, which the marines on board one of the vessels absolutely refused to comply with : colonel Seyburgh, and unluckily myself, were in consequence ordered to compel them ; which he undertook, with a cane in one hand, and a loaded pistol cocked in the other. Knowing his temper to be fiery and irascible, what did I not feel at this moment.? I sud- denly leapt into the boat that lay along-side, where, after ha- ranguing those few that leaned over the gunwale, I promised the shij^s crew 20 gallons of Holland's gin if they would only begin the melancholy chorus. Then mounting again the quar- ter-deck, I acquainted the colonel that all were now ready and willing to obey his commands ; we then re-entered the boat, and in shoving off had the satisfaction to receive three hearty cheers from the sailors, iti which joined a few marines, but with such languid looks and heavy hearts as cannot be de- scribed.'' The disembarkation of the wretched troops afforded great joy to the inhabitants, who viewed their departure with consi- derable regret and alarm. However, 9 officers^ and above 160 privates, all sick and incurable, were embarked for Holland on the 1st ot* August. Stcdman being ill of an ague had his AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 373 jreat lonsi- 160 Hand his choice to acconij>aiiy this p<«rty, hut he i'cI'ushI the offer. On the 12th, tlie rehels attacked i\u estale and carried off all the hlack woiDen, without comniittifi^ any kind of cruelty. Upon this intelligence a jnirty of ranger .vere ^ent in |»nrsuit ol' them; and 700 negroes wen employed to cut a path ol'cir- cumvallation roinid the colonv, which i»ath was to he niannetl with military picijuels t«» dei'end the Cfrtales iVom any I'arther invaHion. * As an instance of the insolence of savages," sa\ s our nar- rator, * when |K'i*fectly independent, I nuist relate a conversa- tion which passed hetween one of this description and myself at Paramariho, where the troops were allowwl some time to refresh themselves hefi)re they agiiin retook the field : — Dining one day at captain Mac NeyPs, who Mas noAv come to town from his estate, a captain of the Owca negroes, our supposed allies, came in to demand money from his 'ady ; and hcing very importunate, I desired her in English lo " give him a dram, and he would be gone ;"" which the fellow understand- ing, called me without the door, and lifting up his silver- headed cane, asked me, " If that house was my own ? and if not, what business 1 had to interfere ? I am," said he, in a thundering voice, *' captain Fortune Dago-So , and, if I had you in my country at Owca, I would make the very earth drink up your blood.*" To which I rej)lied, drawing my sword, " That my name was Stedman ; and that if he dared to utter one insolent expression more, my weapm should find the shortest way through his body.*''' Upon which he snapped his fingers, and mai'clied off, leaving me much displeased, and blaming Fourgeoud fur shewing so much indulgence to sucii a set of banditti. In the evening, as I returned from dinner, I met the same black fellow again, who, stepping short up to me, said, " Massera, you are a man, a very brave fellow; v/on't you now give some money to the Owca caplain ?"" This I sternly refused ; he then kissed my hand, and shewed his teeth (he said) in token of reccmciliation, promising to send me a present of pistac'iio nuts, which never did arrive, nor indeed should I have tasted, even had they been sent. '.' \i<^ m m <. / ,w h i:m^f[ ■'ii :Ui 374 ^ 4'EDMAN'S NARRATIVE OF * Barbarities still contimiwl in a shocking degree in the me- tro})()lis ; whciv my cars were deafened with the clan^ of the whip, and the shrieks of tlie negroes. Among the most emi- nent of these tyrants was a Miss S|i n, who lived next door to Mr. dr Graav, and who I sjiw with horror from my window give orders that a young black woman should Ix; flogged prin- cipally across the breasts, at which she seemed to enjoy pecu- liar satisfaction. To dissipate the impression this scene haii left on ray mind, I got into a whiskey, and rode out ; when the first thing I saw was a negro girl fall naked from a garret window on a heap of broken Iwttles : this M'as indeed an acci- dent, but she was so mangled, though not dead, that she ex- hibited a spectacle nearly as wretched as the other. — Cursing my imlucky fate, I turned the horses, and drove to the beach, as the only place to avoid every scene of cruelty and misery ; but here I had the mortification to see two Philadelphia sailors (while they were flghting on the forecastle of their vessel) both fall over the ship'^s bow into the stream, where they sunk, and were no more seen. On board another American brig, I dis- C()ve»*ed a little tar defending himself from the cross-trees with a hatchet, against a serjeant and four armed men, for a con e M'ho had come to steal piantains on the estate of his nustix^ss. The truth how- ever was, that this had been done by tliat lady\s al)solutc u>in- mand ; but tiie murder being discovered, she, in tlie hopes of saving her character, besides the expence of paying the ]x;nal- ties, gave up her valuable slave, and permitted the uniiappy man to be thus sacriHced. He laid his head upon the block with great indifference, stretching out his neck; when, with one blow of the axe, it was severed from his body. * The third negro, whose name was Neptune, was no slave, but his own master, and a carpenter by trade ; he was young and haodaoine, but having killed the overseer of the estattt Altona, in the Para creek, in consequence of some dispute, he justly forfeited his life. The jiarticulars, however, are worth relating : — This mar. having stolen a sheep, to entertain a fa- vourite young woman, the overseer, who l>urnt with jealousy, had deteriuined to see him hangud ; to prevent whiclt, the ne- gro shot him dead among the sugar-canes ; for these offences of course he was sentenced to be broken alive upon tlie mck^ without the l)enefit of a coup-de-ffrace or mercy-stroke. In. formed of the dreadful sentence, he composedly laid himsell' down on his back on a strong cross, on which, with arms and legs expanded, he was fastened by ropes: the executioner, also a black man, having now with a hatehct cho]>ped off his left haP'!, next took up & heavy iron bar, with which, by re- peated blows, he broke his IxMies to shivers, till the luarrow, blood, und splinters Hew about the field; but the prisoner never uttered a groan nor a sigh. The rofies being next uni> lashed, 1 imagined him dead, and felt happy ; till the magis* trates stirring to depart, he writhed himself from the cross, when he fell on the grass, and damned them all, as a set of m m R.1 !■ I m ■^n'vK i^'^^iir ara STEDMAN'S NARRATr\ E OP . m AJL barbarous rascals ; at the same time remoying his riglit-hand by tlic help of* liis teeth, he rested his head on part of the timber, and asked the by-standers frr a pipe of tobacco, which was infamously answered by kicking and spitting on him ; till I, with some American seamen, thought proper to prevent it. He then begged that his head might be chopped off; but to no purpose. At last, seeing no end to his misery, he declared, " that though he had deserved deatii, he had not expected to die so many deaths : however, (said he) you christians have missed your aim at last, and I now care not, \\^re 1 to remain thus one month longer."' After wlilch he sung two extempore songs (with a clear voice) the subjects of which were, to bid adieu to his living friends, and to acquaint his deceased rela- tions that in a very little time he should be with them, to en- joy their company for ever in a better place. This done, he calmly entered into conversation with some gentlemen concern- ing his trial; relating every particular with uncommon tran- quillity — " But," said he abruptly, " by the «un it must be eight o'clock ; and by any longer discourse I should be sorry to be the cause of your losing yottr breakfast." Then, casting his eyes on a Jew, whose name was De Vries, " A.-propos, sir," said he, " wotft you please to pay me the 10 shillings you owe me ?"" — " For what to do ?"" — " To buy meat and drink, to be sure — don't you perceive I am to be kept alive ?*^ Which speech, on seeing the Jew stare like a fool, this man- gled wretch accompanied with a loud and hearty laugh. Next, ol*erving the soldier that stood sentinel over hijn biting occa- Monnlly on a piece of dry bread, he asked him " liow it came to' pass, that ho a white man, should have no meat to eat alonst with it?" — ** Because I am not so rich."'- answei'ed the soldier. — " Theu I will nujke yon a present, sir,*' said the ne- gro ; " first, pick my hand that was chopped off clean to the bom J, next begin to devour my Iwdy, till you are glutted; when you will have both bread and meat, as best becomeis you;"" — ^which piece of humour was followed by a second laugh; and thus he continued, until I left him, wliich wns about thr«e hours after the dreadful executiou. AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 877 ' Wonderful it is indeed, that Iiuman nature should be able to endure so much torture, whicii assuredly could only be 6upp(H*ted by a mixture of rage, contempt, pride, and the glory of braving his tormentors, from whom he was so soon to escape. < I must now relate an accident, which, as it had a momen- tary effect on my imagination, might have liad a lasting one on some who had not investigated the real cause of it, and which it gave me no small satisfaction to discover. About three in the afternoon, walking towards the place of execution, with my thoughts full of the the affecting scene, and the image of the sufferer fresh in my mind, the first object I saw was his head at some distance, placed on a stake, nodding to me backwards and forwards, as if he had really been alive. I instantly stopped short, and seeing no person in the savan:iah, nor a breath of wind sufficient to move a leaf or a feather, I acknowledge that I was rivetted to the ground, where I stood without having the resolution of advancing one step for some time; till reflecting that I must be weak indeed not to approach this dead skull, and find out the wonderful phaenomenon, if possible, I boldly walked up, and instantly discovered the natural cause, by the return of a vulture to the gallows, who perrhed upon it, as if he meant to dispute with me for this feast of carrion ; which bird, having already picked out one of the eyes, had fled at my first approach, and striking the skull with his talons, as he took his sudden flight, occasioned the motion already described. I shall now only add, that this poor wretch, after living near six hours, had been knocked on the head by the commiserating sentinel, the marks of whose musket were perfectly vir'ble by a large open fracture in the skull. ' The 24th, being the prince of Orange''s birth-day, the whole corps of officers were entertained with salt beef, salt pork, barley puddings, and hard pease, by colonel Fourgeoud. And this day (poor Joanna being inflexible in her resolutions) I ratified the agreement with the good Mrs. Grodefroy, in pre- sence p£ her mother and other relatirms, whereby the above lady bound herself ** never to part with her, except to myself Vol. I. 3 B mm »' ^-'-W' ..'V. li^'iVt 378 STEDMAN^S NARRATIVE OF alone, as long as she lived; and that upon her death, not only her full liberty, but a spot of gi-ound for her cultivation, be- sides a neat house built upon it, should be her portion for ever, to dispose of as slie pleased.*" After this she returned my remaining bond of 900 florins, and gave Joanna a purse with gold containing near 20 ducats, besides a couple of pieces of East India chintz, advising me at the same time " to ^ve in a request to the court for little Johnny'*s immediate manu- mission ; which," she observed, " was a necessary form, whe- ther I should be able to obtain the bail usually required or not; and without which formality, even if I had the bail ready to appear, nothing would be done in the course of bu- siness." * Having both of us thanked this most excellent woman, I Went to sup with the governor, where being transported with joy, I gave him my request in full form, which he coolly put in his pocket with one hand, while he gave rtie a hearty squeeze Avith the other ; and shaking his head told me frankly, ** that he would lay it before the court ; but at the same time was perfectly convinced my boy must die a slave, unless I couM find the necessary bail, which he was at the same time well })ersuaded very few people would wish to appear for.'" Thus, after spending so much time and labour, besides the expence of above 100 guineas already paid, I had still the inexpressible mortification to see this dear little fellow, of whom I was both the father and the master, exposed to perhaps eternal servi- tude ; as for Joanna, she was now perfectly safe, to my heart- felt satisfaction. * On the S5th, the governor gave a very sumptuous feast to several of his friends, of which I had the honour of being one of the party. Dinner being over, I now departed in his ex- cellcncy''s coach to the water-side, where a tent-barge and eight oars lay in waiting to row me down to the estate Catwyk, in the river Comewina, whither I was invited by Mr. Groetzee, & Dutch naval officer, who was the proprietor of this beautiful country-seat. In thip charming situation, no amusements were Wanting. There were carriages, saddle-horses, siul-bojts, bil- Uard-tables, &c. all ready for immediate use. But whatt em- AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 379 bittercd the pleasure was, the inhuman disposition of Mr. Goetzee''s lady, who flogged her negro slaves for every little trifle. For instance, one of the foot-l)oys, called Jacky, not having rinsed the glasses according to her mind, she ordered him to be whipped the next morning; but the unhappy youth soon put himself beyond the reach of her resentment; for, having taken farewell of the other negroes on the estate, he went up stairs, laid himself down upon his master''s own bed, where, placing the muzzle of a loaded fowling-piece in his mouth, by the help of his toe he drew the trigger, and put an end to his existence. A couple of stout negroes were now sent up to see what was the matter ; who, finding the bed all over bespattered with Mood and brains, got orders to throw the body out of the wi idow to the dogs, while the master and mistress wore so very much alarmed, that they never got the better of it, [these unhappy people were poisoned by their tjaves about six years after this happened] ; nor would any person consent to lie in the apartment, till I chose it in prefer- enoe to any other, being assuredly the most pleasant room, and the very l)est bed, in the house. What added much to the alarm of the family, was the circumstance of a favourite child lying fast asleep in the same apartment where this shock- ing catastrophe happened. ' i had not been fourteen days on this plantation, when a female mulatto slave, called Ycttee, for having jocosely said << her mistress had some debt as well as herself,'** was stripped stark naked, and in a very indecent as well as inhuman man- ner flogged by two stout negroes before the dwelling-house door (while both her feet were locked to a very heavy iron bolt) until hardly any skin was left on her thighs or sides. — Five days after this I had the good fortune, however, to get ^r relieved from the iron bolt, which was locked across her shins : but a Mrs. Van Eys, alledging she had aflrouttd her also by her saucy looks, prevailed on Mrs. Goetzee to renew the punishment the same wee"k; when she was actually so cru- elly beaten, that I expected she could not have survived it. * Disgusted with this barbarity, I left the estate Catwyk, determined never more to return to it : but I still accompany- ■<«t |:^ mwm 880 STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OF ing Mr. Goetzee to visit some of his other plantations from curiosity, in Cottica and Pirica rivers, at one of these, called the Aha, a new-bom female infant was presented me by way of compliment, to give it a name, which I called Charlotte. But the next morning, during breakfast, seven negroes were here again tied up and flogged, some with a cow-skin, which is very terrible — Hence I made my retreat to the estate Sgra- ven-Hague, and there, meeting a mulatto youth in chains, whose name was Douglas, I with horror recollected his un- happy father, who had been obliged to leave him a slave, and was now dead. Heartily tired of my excursion, I was now glad to make haste back to Paramaribo ; where, as soon as I arrived, the first news I heard was that colonel Fourgeoud's French valet-de-chambre, poor Monsieur Laurant, had actu- ally been buried be^ire he was quite dead ; — and that, for having been found drunk in an ale-house, no less than thirteen of our men had most severely run the gauntlet, and as many been terribly bastinadoed, the greatest number of which no more saw Europe; — also, that a Quade^oon youth, and a Dutch sailor were found murdered on the beach. I was now procteding to take a walk on the plain or esplanade, but here I was called in by Mr. St — k — r, who conducting me three stories high : " From this window,"" smd he, " a few days since, leaped one of my black boys, to escape a gentle flog- ging ; however, having only fainted in consequence of his fall, we soon brought him to life again by a hearty scouring on the ribs, so he did not escape ; after which, for having risked him- self, that is to say his master's property, and frightened my wife, the ordered him to be sent to fort Zelandia, where he receivec( the interest, that is a most confounded spanso-hocko.^ * The punishment called spanso-bocko is extremely severe indeed, and is executed in the following manner : — The pri- soner''s hands being lashed together, he is laid down on the ground on one side, with his knees thrust between his arms, and these confined by a strong stake, which separates them from his wrists, and is driven perpendicularly into the ground, insomuch that he can no more stir than if he was dead. In this locked position, trussed like a fowl, he is beaten on one AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 381 side of his breech by a strong negro, with a handful of fmotty tamarind branches, till the very flesh is cut awfty ; he is then turned over on the other side, where the same dreadful flagellation is inflicted, till not a bit of skin is left, and the place of execution is dyed \vith Hood : after which the raw la- cerated wound is immediately washed with lemon-juice and gun-powder to prevent mortification, and then he is sent home to recover as well as he can. * The above cruel and indecent punishment is sometimes repeated at every street in the town of Paramaribo, to men and women indiscriminately, which is a severity absolutely beyond conception ; however, it is never thus inflicted without a condenmation from the court. But a single spanso-bocko, without regard to age or sex, as I have just mentioned, may be ordered by any proprietor, either at home, or by sending the victim to the fortress, with a note to the public executioner, to who^ some trifle in money is paid as a fee of office. * I next was addressed by a Monsieur Rochetaux, whose Coromantyn cook, having spoiled his ragout, had just cut his own throat to prevent a whipping ; and Mv. Charles Reyns- dorp's lately did the same. ' After these facts, can it be a matter of surprize, that the negro slaves rise up in rebelUon against masters who treat them with so very much severity? ' I have already stated, tliat I gave in a hopeless request to the governor for my boy's emancipation; and on the 8th of October I saw with equal joy and surprize the following adver- tisement posted up, " That if any one could give in a lawful objection why John Stedman, a quaderoon infant, the son of captain Stedman, should not be presented with the blessing of freedom, such person or persons to appear before January 1, 1777."^ — I no sooner read it, than 1 ran with the good news to my good friend Mr. Palmer, who assured me, " that the above was no more than a form, put in practice on the suppo- sition of my producing the bail required, which undoubtedly they expected, from my having so boldly given in my request to the governor of the colony."" — Without being able to utter one Byllable in reply, 1 retired to the company of Joanna, 'C/' 1 ■ ' 'MU{ 882 STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OF who, with a smile, bid me ** never to despair, that Johnny certainly one day would be free ;"" nor did she ever fail in giv- ing ine some consolation, however desperate were my expec- tations.^ At this time the troops were new clothed (the first they had since 1772), and then marched again into the upper parts of the Cottica river. Captain Stedman, who now acted as major, also set out on his seventh campaign, in defence of the laitful inhabitants of this colony. While encamped at the Casseepore creek, a marine, going to bathe in the river, was snapt away by a large alligator, and Stedman nearly lost his life in diving to attempt the recovery of the pooi fellow. He was afterwards sent with a party in pursuit of die rebels, and after a distressing march during the dry season, he came to Gado-Saby, the demolished settlement of a party of rebels. * While sitting down,' says he, * to rest from our fatigue, a tall old rebel negro appeared suddenly in the very midst of us, with a l deira wine, Holland''s gin, &c. * At length, on the 8th, a barge arrived, not only with a supply of salt beef and rusk, but a bullock and two hogs, as a present from Mr. Felman, who, accompanied by his lady, ifc. came actually on a visit to Fourgeoud, in this very strange encampment. The above animals being immediately killed, they were distributed among 400 people; so that it may well be conceived the shares, though sweet, were not very large, after which the company walked about to view our different habitations. Being arrived at my dwelling, Fourgeoud led them round and round, but seeing no door to get in, he called out, " Nobody at home ?" When I instantly thrust my head through the thatch, with a pan-cake in my hand, and offered to haul in the ladies ; but this they civilly declined. I never saw Fourgeoud laugh so much in my life. As soon, however, as he was able to recover his gravity, he exclaimed, " S(tcre Dieu ' Iljaut etre Stedmrni^ — iljiiut eire original comme lui;^ r.nd re-conducted the company to his own apartment, where he gave me an invitation to follow them. Indeed, when captain Small and I went out, we generally spent our time in a beautiful savannah, where we had erected a green shed, to be free in conversation, and called it Ranelagh ; here we ca- roused and cracked a bottle in private, till we could crack no longer, having lived so well that in a little time more than a week my cheese and bacon hams quite disappeared, and not a drop of wine or rum was left in the flasks. — After this he, as well as I, were obliged to live on short allowance; while Small had the satisfaction, however, to see his ship-mates do the same: who, not being acquainted with the oeconomy iiecessary in a forest, had made all their flom- into plum-pudding, and were already obliged to break their teeth on a piece of rye rusk. ' In short, so early as the 12th, 150 of these newly-arrived people were already ordered to march ; when, by the way of seasoning them, besides heavy accoutrements and a hammock, they had orders- each man to carry a stuffed knapsack on bis Vol. I.-(17) 3 C im STEDMAN^S NARRATIVE OF back. Of this party, my friend Small happened to be one, who being as corpulent as Sir John Fahtaff, and I having accoutred him in the above manner, the poor fellow could hardly walk at all : till declaring to Fourgeoud that I must roll him along like a hogshead, he got leave to be disentangled from a part of his unweildy encumbrances. * On the 23d, this party returned, after having destroyed another rebel settlement, which induced the rebels to retire into the French colony Cayenne. In this hard though neces- sary service the men had suffered severely, especially those newly arrived ; numbers of whom were carried in hammocks on poles, while near thirty were left sick at the Marawina, and my friend Small was at least one stone lighter. * At this time, in the camp hospital, above one hundred were also dangerously ill. Nothing was heard but sighs and the shrieking of the strix or Guiana owl, which for ever kept them company during the dismal nights. Cramps, so common in Surinam, also infested those that were able to do duty; and there reigned a general melancholy all around. * Here one man was to be seen covered over with bloody boils from head to f(X)t ; there another led along by two of his comrades in a deep lethargy, who, in spite of pinching and pricking, dosed into eternity ; a third, swelled by the dropsy, and imploring the surgeon in vain to tap off the water (who generally answered that it was too late) was left to expire by suffocation. In the hospital some were observed elapsing their hands, and praying aloud to God to be relieved ; while others lay at their side in a frenzy fever, tearing their hair, biaa- pheming Providence, and ciu'sing the day that they were born. — In short, all was dreadful beyond description. * On the 26th my misery, however, drew towards an end, when, to my astonishment, and without my asking it, colonel Fourgeoud gave me a leave of absence, if I chose it, to accom- pany him, and stay henceforth at Paramaribo; which, without hesitation, I most joyfully accepted. Thus, having maae my friend capt^n Small a present of my house, my Ranelagh, tmd all my Jresh provisions (some which I received from town on the 23d), besides entertainmg him and some other officers AN ex: EDITION TO SURINAM. 387 )rn. on a dish of mountain-cabbage and groc-groe worms, and a hearty glass of wine, I took my last adioii from them all ; and at midnight, with colonel Fourgeoud, rowed down the river Cottica in an elegant barge with ten oars, in company with two more of his officers.— And now farewell once more, ye shady woods, thou pleasing gloomy forest, pregnant with so many wonders, and so many plagues, and which, in the opinion of so many sufferers, even surpass(.'d Mie ten plaf^mn * The boat being shoved oft', colonel Fourgeoud now de- clared to us, that having ransacked the forest in every direc- tion, and driven the rebels over the Maniwina in Cayenne, he was determined no more to return to the w(K)ds, but in a few weeks to draw the long and painful expedition to a conclusion. ' Now, reader, it remtuns with you to acknowledge that I have not led you about the bush^ but through ity with indefa- tigable perseverance : the more so, when it is to be considereil tha*: in the middle of the above hurry and distress, under which so many have sunk, I have often been deprived of pen, inky and paper to make proper annotations ; which last defect I have even more than once supplied by writing with a pencil on my cartridges, or on a bleached bone : had this not been unavoidably the case, more accuracy and many more remarks might with justice have been expected, which one need never be at a loss to make in a country so replete with different ob- jects for speculation. * I prosecuted my voyage down the Cottica river till I came to Paramaribo, where I arrived in fine spirits and perfect health. I was most heartily welcomed by my friends with the warmest congratulations on my still existing, after so many dangers, and been so long deprived of every comfort — torn by thorns, stung by insects — starved, emaciated, and wounded — often without clothes, health, rest, money, refreshments, medi- cines, or friends ; — and after having lost so many of my brave companions, who lay buried in the dust. Thus ended my seventh and last campaign in the forest of Guiana. * Being invited to dine with his excellency the governor, I laid before him my collection of drawings, and remarks on the M ;i y\,f>-r i 888 STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OF the colonv of Surinam, which I had the satisfaction to see him honour with the highest approbation. I then returned him my thanks, not only for the material assistance he had afibrded me in completing this work, but for the unlimited marks of regard and distuiction with which he had treated me from iirst to last, during the whole time I resided in Guiana. < A> iling myself of his friendship, 1 ventured, two days after, to give him the following very uncommon request, pray- ing him to lay it before the court ; which, with a smile on his countenance, and a hearty shake by the hand, he actually j^omised me to perform ; viz. " I, the under-subscribed, do pledge my word of honour, (being all I possess in the world besides my pay) as hail, that if my late ardent request to the court for the emancipation of my dear boy Johnny Stedman be granted, the said boy shall never to the end of his life become a charge to the colony of Surinam. (Signed) « JOHN G. STEDMAN." *' Paramaribo, *' Feb. ISth, nil." * Having now done the utmost that lay in my power, X fq^ several days waited the result with anxiety, but without meet- ing witli the smallest hopes of success ; thus, with a bi'okei^ heart, I was obliged at last to give him (sweet fellow) over for lost, or take him with nie to Europe, which must haye l^e^^ plunging a dagger in the bosom of his mother. * The 8th of March, being the princQ of Orange''s birth-day, it was celebrated at the head-quarters ; where, after dinner, in the court lodge, hearing captain Bolts in an undeserved man- ner censured by the colunefs ac^utant, for recommending one of the young volunteers of an excellent character, but who had no friends to support hi\ii, (a Mr. Shefier, already mentioned, xfho had served Mfith honour frqm first to last, on the pay of private spldier, during this painful expedition) I broke through the ring that surrounded theip in a passion, and not b^ing able to restrain myself, pubhcly reproved the aggressor, even \fi Fourgepud's presence, when a furious altercation and very hi^h words immediately ensued ; the consequence of which AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 889 lan- one had led, fyof ?uag fery lith was, that next morning at sun-nse wc walked to the savanna)] without second «*, wherCj near the gallows, we drew our small swords, and after making a few passes at eacli other, captain Van Geurick'*s point met my shell, which having nearly pierced, his hlade snapped in two pieces, and the fortune of war put iilm entirely in my power. Disdaining, however, to take a mean advantage, 1 instantly dropped my small sword, and de- sired him to step home and replace liis own, in order to renew the battle: but this proposal he was pleased to call so generous, that taking me by the hand, he requested a renewal of friend- ship; thus acknowledging we had been too hasty on both aides, we went to visit p(X)r Bolts , who knew nothing of our moming^s walk, and was (though not without difficulty) persuaded also to enter into the amicable treaty : by which a second rencoun- ter was happily prevented, and a general reconciliation took place. 'On the 12th, I was shocked and .*^urprized beyond the power of expression, at seeing a MiLs Jettee de la Mare, daughter to the lately deceased gentleman of that name, a lovely mulatto girl, aged fourteen, who had been christened in 1774, and educated as a young lady, dragged to court in chains, with her mother and a few more of her relations, the (t^hole surrounded by a military guard. I had almost attempt- ed a rescue, when having enquired the cause, she called out to me herself, weeping most bitterly; and informed me, that " she was gomg to be tried by Mr. Schouten, her mother^s master, for refusing to perform the work of a common slave, whidi she was uttwly unable to perform, and could never have expected, from the footing upon which she hi d been educated till that unhappy moment.'" ' Such was the fatal consequences of not having been tim^j emancipated ; and such were they indeed, that they made mt tremlile for my little boy. Happily my uneasiness was not of lopg duration; for, howev^ improliable and unexpected, I was surprized on the very same day with a potite message from tlie governor and the court, acquainting me that, " having taken my former services into consideration, together with my humwity «iid gaUantry, In offering my Iwnour as bail to see A Tf t!-;- 390 STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OF my child, before I left him, made a free citizen of the world ; they had unanimously decreed, without farther ceremony or expence, to compliment me with a letter, which wa» at the same time officially presented to me, containing his emanci- pation FROM THAT DAY, FOE EVER AFTER. * No man could be more suddenly transported from woe to happiness than I was at this moment; whilo his poor mother shed tears for joy and gratitude ; the more so, as we had lost all hopes, and the favour came perfectly unexpected, and while near 40 boys and girls were left to perpetual slavery by their parents of my acquaintance, and many of them without being so much as once enquired after at all. * What is most extraordinary indeed is, that while the well- thinking few highly applauded my sensibility, many not only blamed, but publicly derided me for my paternal affection, which was called a weakness, a whim. So extravagant was my joy on this day, however, at having acted the reverse part of Inkle to Varico, that I became like one frantic with plea- sure. I not only made my will in his favour (though, God knows, I had little to dispose of) but I appointed my friends Mr. Robert Gordon and Mr. James Gourlay to be my execu- tors and his guardians during my absence. ' The day of our departure now approached fast, and I gave up my house ; when, at Mrs. Godefroy''8 pressing invi- tation, I spent the remaining moments in that which she had prepared for the reception of Joanna and her boy, in her beau- tiful garden, charmingly situated under the shade of tamarind and orange trees ; which house she also had neatly furnished with every accommodation that could be desired, besides al- lowing Joanna a negro woman and a girl to attend on her for life. Thus situated, how blest should I have been in this spot to end my days ! — But fate ordained it otherwise. * On the S6th, we took our leave of his excellency the go>. vemor, en corps^ as assuredly was his due ; after which all the officers of the Society troops waited on cok>. A Fourgeoud, at the head-quarters, to wish us a prosperous' voyage to Hol- land, and the day was spent by a regale, en militaire, viz. a dinner, as usual, of salt provisions ; but 1 must acknowledge, AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 391 [ego Ih all iHol- m. a sdge, accompanied with as much good Uquor of every kind, as Su- rinam could furnisli, and a very hearty welcome. ' I believe that now a hundred limes Fourgeoud shook me by the hand, declaring, " That there was not a young man he loved better in the world; that had he commanded me to march through fire as well as water, he was convinced I should never have left it, without accomplishing his orders;"" with many other fine compliments. But I must candidly acknow- ledge, that though I had a heart to forgive, my mind would never permit me to forget the many and unnecessary difficulties and miseries to which I had been too wantonly exposed. ' In the evening I went to take a last farewell of iny most valuable acquaintances ; but my soul was too full of a friend that was still dearer, to be impressed with that sensibility on separating from them, that it must have felt on another occa- sion. And here I cannot in justice omit remarking, that while I gave the most impetuous vent to my feelings, not the small- expression of poignant sorrow, or even dejection, escaped from Joanna's lips; while her good sense and fortitude even re- strained the tear from starting in my afflicted presence I now once more earnestly pressed her to accompany me, in which I was seconded by the inestimable Mrs. Godefroy and all her friends ; but she remained equally inflexible, and her steady answer was as before — " That, dreadful as appeared the fatal separation, perhaps never more to meet, yet she could not but prefer remaining in Surinam : first, from a con- sciousness that, with propriety, she had not the disposal of her- self; and, secondly, from pride, wishing in her present condi- tion rather to be one of the first among her own class in America, than a reflection or burthen on me in Europe, as she was convinced must be the case, unless our circumstances liecame one day more independent.'^ Here Joanna shewed great emo- tion, but immediately retired to weep in private. — What could I say or do ? — Not knowing how to answer, or sufficiently to admire her firmness and resignation, which so greatly exceeded my own, I determined, if possible, to imitate her conduct, and calmly to resign myself to my fate, preparing for the fatal mo- ^>t. m m 392 STEDMA>rS NARRATIVE OF ment, when my heart forbode me we were to pronounce the LAST ADIEU, and separate for ever. * The whole corps being ordered, at seven o'clock on the morning of the S7th, to wait on colonel Fourgeoud at the head- quarters, I tore myself away from all that was dear to me in this world without disturbing them, in order to prevent the tender scene of parting. We were immediately embarked, under a general salute, and colours flying, from the fortress and the vessels in the roads. * On the 29th of March, at midnight, the signal-gun being fired, the two ships got under way, and dropped down till before the fortress New Amsterdam, where they once more came to an anchor. * Here my friends Gordon and Gourlay, the guardians of my boy, after the convivial colonel Seyburg (for such he cer- tainly was) had entertained them on board his vessel, the HoUandia, affectionately coming to visit me, they did no less then actually prevail on me to accompany them back to Para- maribo. My soul could not resist this second invitation of once more beholding what was so dear to me. — I went, and, must I say it ? — found Joanna, who had displayed so much fortitude in my presence, now bathed in tears, and scarcely alive, so much was she become the victim of melancholy and despair. Nor had she partaken of food, or sleep, since my departure, nor spoken to any living creature, indeed not stir- ring from the spot where I had left her on the morning of the 27th. * The ships not being quite ready to go to sea till two days after, I was prevailed upon to stay on shore a little longer, with poor Joanna and her boy, which seemed to cheer her : but, alas ! too dear we paid for this too short reprieve ! since, few hours had relapsed, when a sailor abruptly came in, with the message that the ship's boat lay in waiting that minute to carry me on board ^At that instant — Heavens ! what were my feelings !— Joanna's mother took the infant from her arms, the all'Worthy Mrs. Godefroy supporting herself her brothers and sisters hung around me, crying, and invoking AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 393 of my stir- the [days iger, Iher : lince, with Iteto Iwerc Inns, her [king Heaven aloud for my safety — while the unfortunate Joanna (now but nineteen) gazing on me, and holding me by the hand, with a look ten thousand times more dejected than Sterne's Maria^^-was unable to utter a word ! ! 1 perceived she was distracted — the hour was come — I exchanged a ringlet of their hair, and fondly pressed them both to my bosom : — the power of speech also forsook me, and my heart tacitly in- voked the protection of Providence to befriend them. — Joanna now shut her beauteous eyes — her Ups turned the pale colour of death — she bowed her head, and motionless sunk into the arms of her adopted mother : — Here I roused all my re- maining fortitude, and leaving them surrounded by every care and attention, departed, and bid God bless them ! ! !^ The vessel which capt£dn Stedman finally embarked sailed on the 1st of April, 1777. Out of near 1,200 able-bodied men about 100 returned, but of these not 20 were in perfect health ! After a sickly passage, the poor remains of this gal- lant corps were on the 3d of June put on board six lighters on the Dutch coast, which were appointed to transport them to Bois-le-Duc, in which town they were to be completed, and do the duty as part of the garrison. On leaving the ves- sels * we were,' says our author, * saluted with nine guns each; which having returned with three cheers, we set sail for the place above mentioned. As we passed in the lighters through the inland towns, such as Saardam, Haerlem, and Tergow, I thought them truly magnificent, particularly the glass pmnt- ing in the great church of the latter ; but their inhabitants, who crowded about us, from curiosity to see us, appeared but a disgusting assemblage of ill-formed and ill-dressed rabble, so much had my prejudices been changed by living among the Indians and blacks : their eyes seemed to resemble those of a pig; their complexions were Uke the colour of foul linen; they seemed to have no teeth, and to be covered over with rags and dirt. This prejudice, however, was not against t'.iese people only, but against all Europeans in general, when compared to the sparkling eyes, ivory teeth, shining skin, and remarkable cleanliness of those I had left behind me. But the most ludi- crous circumstance was, that during all this we never once Vol. I. 3D ?'^'^f;i '!%»; i1 ■:i»fl 394 STEDMAN'S NARRATIVE OF considered the truly extraordinary figure that we mode otur- selves, being so much sun-burnt and so pale, that we wctr nearly the colour of dried parchment, by heat and fiitigue ; and so tlun, that we looked like moving skeletons ; to whidi I may add, that having lived so long in the woods, we had p^fectly the appearance of wild people ; and I in particular, very deservedly, obtained the characteristic title of le savage Jngiois, or the English savage. In this state we arrived, on die 9th, at the town of Bois4e-Duc, where the troops were finally disembarked. * Thus ended, perhaps, one of the moe^ <^xtraardinary ex* peditions that was ever undertaken by European troops ; and to which only the exploits of the American buccaniers have any, and even that a very distant, resemblance.^ Captain Stedman now bade a lasting farewell to cok>nel Fourgeoud^s regiment, being transferred by the prince of Orange to general Stuart''s regiment, and shortly after raaaed to the rank of mqpr in this Scottish corps. His faitUiil blade boy Quaco he presented to the countess of Rosendaal, who not only chnstened him by the name of Stedman, but pro. moted him to be her butler. Colonel Fourgeoud had scarcely arrived in Holland when he died, and was buried at the Hague with military honours. When the war broke out between the States of Holland and Great Britain, captain Stedman, with most of die principal officers in the Scots brigade, resigned. The very day he left the Dutch service, the prince of Orange complimented him with the rank of UeutenanUcokmel. On the 18th of June, 1783, all these officers had the honour to kiss his majesty'*s hand at Su James% and the same month were voted hidf.pay by the house of commons, according to the rank in which each individual had served while abroad. < I must now,^ says this gallant and feeling soldier, < draw this narrative to a conclusion, by once more motioning the name of Joanna, and acqumnt tlie reader, that, alas !■ Joanna is no mobe ? f ! — •■ — * In the month of August, 1763, I received the melancholy tidings from Mr. Gouxlay (which {aerced me to the soul) tint AN EXPEDITION TO SURINAM. 39S woe tgue; vIucIb chad icular, favage ed, cm B were aryeat- 16; and rs haye Gok>nel innce of er niwd adblMk \msX, who [but pro- scarcely Hague id and [principal Bty he left [ited him I of June, I majesty's half-pay Ihidieach on the fatal^^A of November this virtuous young woman de- parted this life, as some suspected by poison, administered by the hand of jealousy and envy, on account of her prosperity, and the marks of distinction which her superior merit had so jusdy attracted from the respectable part of the colony. * But she is no more !— Reader !~M>the virtuous Joanna, who so often saved my life, is no more ! ! ! — Her adopted mother, Mrs. GU)defroy, who bedewed her beauteous body with tears, ordered it to be interred >vith every mark of respect, under the grove of orange-trees where she had hved. Her lovely boy was sent to me, with a bill of near SOO/., his private pro- perty, by inheritance from his mother Soon after which ex- pired both his very faithful guardians. * This CHABMiNG YOUTH, having made a most commendap- ble progress in his education in Devon, went two West India voyages, with the highest character as a sailor; and during the Spanish troubles aer » ed with honour as a midshipman on board his majesty^s ships Southampton and Lizard, ever ready to engage in any service that the advantage of his king and country called for. But, oh ! — he also is no more, having since perished off the island of Jamaica.' :',m ^i'M m m m I i*'] elanchbly l)tlH(t NOTES ON THE WEST INDIES, * AND THE COAST OF GUIANA. By GEORGE PINCKARD, M. D. T^HIS very amusing and instructive narrative was ori^nally written for the private eye of a friend ; but has been re- ceived by the public with a peculiar .though well merited esteem. The editor has preserved the epistolary form as con- veying a more lively, correct, and faithful representation of the author''s feelings, than any other that could be adopted ; he has also been careful to preserve every occurrence and ob- servation of importance, and to relate it in the pleasing and amiable spirit of the original. Dr. Pinckard was appointed one of the physicians attached to the staff of Sir Ralph Abercromby, who was invested with the command of the expedition destined for the West Indies in 1795. After waiting on the inspector-general at South- ampton, the doctor was informed that his name was not upon the return of the Leeward island division, and that if it was upon the St. Domingo staff, he must proceed to join the ex- pedition about to sail from Ireland. He therefore returned >vith Dr. Master to London, where they were ordered to pro- ceed in the Ulysses armed transport to Cork. For this pur- pose, accompanied by Dr. Henderson, they proceeded to PINCKARD'S WEST INDIES. S97 and upon it was le ex- turned [o pro- \s pur- led to PiM'tsmouth to wait the arrival of the Ulysses from the Thamcis. After viewing the great objects which call forth the attention of the stranger in the Wapping of England, such as the ramparts, the dock-yard, the Haslar hospital, and the prisons, they lapsed into the dull round of the place, but our author^s habit of correct observation continued in activity ; and here we must begin to present our readers with some of his amusing remarks. * Portsmouth, Oct. 23d, 1795. * No tidings of the Ulysses ! Four long days have passed away, since my arrival at this place, and I am still left in anxious uncertainty respecting my baggage, and my pas- sage. The busy activity of this place occurs only at intervals, as when the fleet comes in, or is about to sail : at which pe- riods the town becomes all crowd and hurry, for a few days, and then suddenly reverts to a languid intermission of dullness and inactivity. ' In respect to streets, houses, markets, and traffic, Ports- mouth is not unlike other country towns, but Portsmouth- point, Portsea^ommon, and some other parts of the town have peculiarities which seem to sanction the celebrity the place has acquired. In some quarters, Portsmouth is not only filthy and crowded, but crowded with a class of low and abandoned beings, who seem to have declared open war against every hfa- bit of common decency and decorum. You know the strong desire I have to contemplate human nature, under all her va- ried forms, but those she here assumes, I am sorry to tell you, are uncommonly hideous and disgusting. The riotous, drunk- en, an4 immoral scenes of this place, perhaps, exceeds all others. Commonly gross obscenity and into:cication preserve enough of diffidence to seek the concealment of night, and, as- suming a kind of decency, strive to hide themselves from the public eye: but, here, hordes of profligate females are seen reeling in drunkenness, or plying upon the streets in open day, with a broad immodesty which puts the great orb of noon to the blu'h. These daughters of Cypria are not only of manners peculiar^ but likewise of such peculiar figure and ■k .■■r m \r\''i% m 398 PINCKARD^S NOTES ON apparel, that it were perhaps difficult, in any other part of England, to find a correct resemblance of — ** sweet Poll of Portsmouth." > To form to yourself an idea of these tender languishing nymphs-^these lovely sighing ornaments of the fur-sex, im** l^ne a something of more than Amazonian stature, having a crimson countenance, embtaaoned with all the effrontery of Cyprian confidence, and Bacchanalian folly : give to her bdid countenance the wai'like features of two wounded cheeks, a tumid nose, scarred and battered brows, and a pur of black- ened eyes, with balls of red ; then add to her sides a pair of brawny arms, fit to encounter a Colossus, and set her upon two ancles like the fixed supporters of a gate. Afterwards, by way of apparel, put upon her a loose flying cap, a man''s black hat, a torn neckerchief, stone rings on her fingers, and a dirty white, or tawdry flowered gown, with short apron, and a pink })etticoat ; and thus, will you have something very like the fi- gure of a " Portsmouth Poll."^ * Callous to every sense of shame, these daring objects reel about the streets, lie in wait at the comers, or, like the de- vouring kite, hover over every landing-place, eager to pounce upon their prey ; and each unhappy tar, who has the misfor- tune to fall under their talons, has no hope of escape till plucked of every feather. The instant he sets foot on dry land he is embraced by the neck, hugged round the waist, or hooked in the arm by one or more of these tender Dulcineas ; and, thus, poor Jack with pockets full of prize^Boney, or rich with a long and dangerous cruize, is, instantly, dragged (though, it must be confessed, not always against bis consent) to a bagnio, or some filthy pot-house, where he is kept drink- ing, smoking, »nging, dancing, swearing, and rioting, amidst one continued scene of debauchery, all day and night, and all night and all day, un^ his every fardiing is gone. He is, then, left to sleep till he is sober, a>id awdces to return, p«n. nyless, to bis ship-— with much cause to think himself fortu- nate, if an empty purse be the worse consequence of his, long wished for, nrnible ashore. THE WEST INDIES. d99 * Portsmouth^ October 9S. * Still at Portsmouth, and the Ulyssea not yet come round from the Thames ! Henderson and myself have receiv- ed orders not to wut longer, but to repair, immediately, on board the Bridgewater transport, and proceed to Cork. Of this vessel we do not hear the most happy report. She meet whatever happens sans me plamdre. ' Master has not received instructimoutli:-^but this is among the numberless uncer- tainties of my present calling. * Upon rjcceiving our inntructions to repair on board the Briilgewater, Dr. Henderson and myself took a l)oat and went off to Spithead, with the intention of joining her, but afler sail- ing and rowing amidst the fleets there, and at St. Helen's, throughout nearly the whole of the day, we at last returned without bdng able to And our ship. * Previous to going into the boat .we had been informed at the Transport-Office, that the vessel we inquired for, hod re- ceived instructions to sail without delay : it is therefore proba- ble, that she might be getting under weigh at the very moment we went off in search of her. The following morning we learned that she had actually sailed for Cork. * The weather continues to be verv unsettled. It has been stormy and tempestuous beyond all that ia usual, even at the the roughest season of the year. Between 10 and 11 oVloek, on the morning of the S9th, a tremendous gale began to blow. The sky blackened. The tumid clouds rolled in heavy masses, darting forth quick lightning, followed by loud bursts of thun- der. The tearing gusts of wind brought with them violrat showers of hml, and deluging torrents of rain. The whole elements seemed to be moved in one convulsive effort. The vivid lightning traced its path in broad and fiery flashes, and the teiTific thund^ instantly followed, as if ra^ng to overtake them. At one instant it rolled in (^pressed and convulsive sound, seeming to struggle against some great impediment that confined it to the clouds, and at the next it burst forth in full explosi(Hi, as though a match had suddenly fired tlic whole ordnance of heaven. Hailstones of uncommon magni- tude beat down with a force and rapidity, as if contending which should first reach the earth : and scarcely had they fall- en, before the sweeping violence c^ the wind forced them into heaps like deep-drifted snow; in which state they remained for hours afler the storm ; notwithstanding the heavy torrents of rain which followed them, < The hollow sound of the wind, and the heavy beatings of the bail and raia, through Uie thick forest of shipping lying % , 'Hf ."l ii ^> Vol. I. 3 £ 402 PINCKARFS NOTES ON in the harbour, togetlier with the tremendous dashings of tliv sea, and the troubled motion of* tlie vessels, upon its restless surface, all combined to render the scene gi*ently awful ; but too high a degree of the terrific was intermixed with 't, for the spectator to regard its gi'andeur and sublimity in (juiet con- templation. — To convey any just idea of it wou-d require the pen of a Milton, or a Shakespeare. * The injuries done were less than might have been expect- ed. Some of the .ships and boats necessarily suffered ; a few hoi.ses were unroofed ; and, amidst the devastation, the wind- mill at Gosport Avas blown to the ground. It was at first said that many lives were lost, — but happily we do not find this report confirmed. * The repeated delays to which we have been subjected have proved the means of completing our party, by converting our harmonious trio into a still more social quartette : a circum- stance which has happened from our being joined by Dr. Cleg- horn, who is now arrived, at this place, on his way to join the St. Domingo hospital staff. He is a plciusant, Avell-infonned man, and of good professional abilities; is brother to the pro- fessor of anatomy at the university of Dublin, and nephew to the celebrated author on the diseases of Minorca. His society is a great acquisition to us, and we are much gratified in hav- ing such an agreeable addition to our party. We now l(X)k, more anxiously than ever, to the arrival of the Ulysses, in the hope of being allowed to establish a pleasant mess for the voyage. ' Spithtad, November 12. * Greetings from the Ulysses ! Our suspense is at length relieved. A few days after 1 ia^t wrote to you, our iong looked for Ulysses arrived, with a fleet from the Downs, and yesterday, Henderson, Master, Cleghorn, and myself, took our births on board, finding Master\s and my baggage stowed in great safety. ' We left Portsmouth in a grand scene of hurry and confu- sion, in consequence of it being reported, on the arrival of the flttet from the Downs, that every ship belonging to the expe- THE WEST INDIES. 403 the It 12. is at our )wns, ^self, wfu- k' the ixpe- j»editivas arrived. But should we proceed to sea immediately, and the voyage be at all protract- ed, we shall be reduced by this neglect to salt food, and the ship's allowance ; for in the general scramble wo were unable to obtain what wo wished, and were compelled to repair on board with a very deficient supply. * All the butchers^ and bakers'" shops were quickly emptied. Not a loaf, not p. bit of meat, net even a carrot, nor a cabbago remained, and many went empty away. Neither porters nor servants were required, but every one, who was successful enough to put his hand upon his provisions, gladly became the l)earer of his own load. To shew you the extremity to which we were reduced, I may tell you that our party stopped a man upon the street who Avas carrying home a large giblct pie, hot from the oven, v.hich we tempted him to let us take on board, by offering for the j)ic and the dish more than dou- ble their value — or indeed any money he might demand, * To an unconcerned spectator it must have been a most lu- dicrous and diverting scene, and such as might have afforded ■ ring wliich we had regarded it as a dull inanimate place ; but the change is sudden, and will be only transient; the hurry and tunuilt will vanish with tlie sailing of tlie fleet, and tlie town will relapse into its tranquil sameness, until the recurrence of a similai' occurrence. * Upon reaching the ship we had so anxiously looked for, we were received as people iniknown and mu'egarded — conducted into a lai'ge ward-room, strewed with various kinds of luml>cr, and there left, as in a wilderness. No birtiis had been pre- pared, nor any kind of arrangement made for our ac(x)mmo- dation. Not a cot was slung ; nor any sleeping place allotted. The ward-room was open to all, and was to serve for the whole of the passengers. We were turned in loose, with six or eight other persons, and soon found ourselves to be onij individuals of the general herd — the whole flock being left at large, like sheep in a common fold. * The vessel is commanded by an officer of the navy, and it was no part of his duty to prepare accommodations for passen- gers he neither knew nor expected. She is one of the old ^4 gun frigates, and carries some of her guns as an armed i!ansport. Had our ship been a common transport, or a mer- X.1 ntman, I should have felt enough at home to have de- ina..ded all we required, but from not having before been passengers on board a ship oi' war, Cleghorn, Master, and myself ^vore quite at a loss how to proceeil. Fortunately, Hen- derson is more auJu'U to these subjects, and from understmid- ing the necessary etiquette, kindly took upon himself the task of meliorating our condition. Having applied, with all due ceremony, to the governor of our occan-castle, he soon suc- ".et^cd in bringing one of the lieutenants to our aid; who very ^'m !i ,31 ■■" ' 'l'l:^l !'!'5<;« 'L-il 406 PINCKARD'S NOTES ON obligingly gave directions for bettering our situation, and it was gratifying, beyond all the advantages of persontol accom- modation, to observe with Avhat promptitude liis orders were put into execution. The packages, and other incommoding lumber, were quickly removed ; and a canvass partition wa» put up to divide the ward-room into two separate apartments; allotting to us that on the starboard side. Four cots were slung in a row over the cannon, and inclosed with another canvass running, parallel with the former, throughout the whole length of the ward-room. This formed a general sleep- ing birth for our mess, allowing to each his appropriate dress- ing room between the several guns: and, thus, were we speedily accommodated with five distinct apartments, consist- ing of a long narrow dining room, and, as we were assured, four cxceUcni 'vsd-rooms. * We were ic- . mused and gratified in observing the ex- pertness of the s; .p's cai^penters, and all the men employed upon this occasion; and it afforded us great pleasure to remark how prompt and obedient they were in executing the commands of their officers. On boaiu a transport, or a merchantman, several days would have been expended, in prejiaring what was here completed in a single hour. ' As we are only fresh-water stdlors, it was hinted for our information, that the aft, or sternmost cot, being the upper birth on the star-board side, was deemed the place of honour, and hence appropriated to the use of the captain, always, when the officers sleep in the ward-room. My ambition did not lead to contend for this sickening post of honour, therefore, in obedience to ir" poor nauseated stomach, I very humbly re- quired to be allowed to take the lowest cot of the four, and am accordingly indulged with the birth nearest the centre of the ship, where I lie with my three comrades kicking, in a row, at my head. * Our first night has been restless and disturbed — the un- pleasant heaving of the ship — the creaking of bulk-heads, and other noises — the uneasy motion of the cot, and a whole host of annoyances, prevented me from sleeping. At each motion r)f the ship, or the cot, my feet were struck against the bulk- then not e, in re- and re of in a un- and Ihost Ltion ulk- THE WEST INDIES. 407 head at the bottom of the ward-room ; or I was bumped upon the huge cannon standing under me; or had Cleghorn'^s feet roughly presented to my head. Some of tliese evils arose from the cot being badly slung, and will be removed ; and a few days, I trust, will reconcile me to those which cannot be remedied. * H. M. S. Ulysses, November 15. * The long expected day is at length arrived, when our proud fleet swells its lofty sails to seek the enemy. The loud signal of departure being given, all the ships of the Lee- island division weighed anchor this morning, and put to sea under a most favourable breeze. The Ulysses being left to wait the sailing of the convoy at Cork, we remained tranquil spectators, and Jiad every convenience of enjoying the scene ; which was great, and splendid, and led me strongly to wish that you had been here to witness it, with us. The day be- ing fine, and the wind from a friendly quarter, the picture was beautiful, as it was grand and animated. On passing round, or, to use the sailors' term, on doubling the point of the isle of Wight, all the ships seemed to fall into regular succession, forming a line of numberless extent — each, elevating her sails into view, over the territory of the island, as though they were contending which should be longest seen ; or, as if striving to rival the clouds, in their travels through the skies, conscious that they too bore with them their thunder and tlrcir lightning. * It was a pleasing spectacle to every beholder, and those who felt as Englishmen ought, derived from it sensations pe- culiarly grateful. To witness such a fleet full-swelling from our little island into the ocean, to fight our battles in a far dis- tant country, conveyed ideas of greatness and power, which were calculated to raise a just ambition in every British bosom. The ships of war and transports exceeded 200 sail. The im- mense ship, the Commerce de Marseilles, captured at Toulon, is at the head of the convoy, with the admiral, the comman- der-in-cliief of the army, and nearly 1,000 troops on board. It is currently reported here that the whole of these, together "rV ' It' m ^^i ;'^:i. ■if '■ml *\ 108 PINCKARD'S NOTES ON with the Cork division, are to rendezvous at Barbadocs, and, making that the grand dcpdt, proceed from thence to the at" tack of various colonies. * For a long time jiast lias this vast armament been expected in the West Indies, and during many tedious weeks has Eng^ land, almost daily, looked for its departure : but to prepare, and to set afloat such a fleet, and such an army, is an under- taking of no trifling magnitude : and far more difficult thaa those superficial observers, who are ignorant of the service, arc willing to imagine. * We were, yesterday, regaled with the loud treat of hear- ing the ship^s cannon fired, wliile we were on board. Every thing was cleared away, as if preparing for action : all the doors and windows were set open, and every precaution used, to prevent injury or accident. We remained in the ward-room during the time of filing the guns, in that part of the ship, and endeavoured to be strictly attentive to the effect. It was not unlike a violent stroke- of electricity : and, for a moment, we felt stunned with the shock. The jarring concussion con- veyed the sensation of the whole ship having shivered asunder, or suddenly burst into atoms ; and it seemed matter of sur- prize that the ears of the sailors should, ever, become capable of supporting the successive and violent explosions of a hostile engagement. Notwithstanding the precaution of letting^ down the windows, tho^e of the quarter gallery were shattered to pieces. ' As we are to wait for other ships, we may now find an op- portunity of adding to the scanty stock of provisions, which we procured amidst the general scramble of embarkation ; and and we hope, also, that our vessel will ha-ve time to take in a fresh supply of water ; for we have hitherto suffered very se- verely from not having any, but what has been putrid and offensive, on board; and coming directly to this shore, has rendered it far worse than if we had been gradually compelled to submit to it, after being a long time at sea. To myself, in particular, this is a weighty misfortune, as I have not the common resource of flying to wine and beer, as a relief. We have taken to our aid both puriflers and filtering ^tcmes; and THE WEST INDIES. 409 and has led kthe We ood very soon we hope to have good water from the shore. Wc are further assured of having our present suiTering compen- flated upon the passage ; for the Thames water, now so oifen- sive, will soon restore itself, and, becoming settled and depu- rated, will be clear and sweet as we could desire. * With regard to our eating, likewise, it is well we are not of the Epicurean school. The many disagreeable smells, and the heaving motion of the ship, have much impaired our ap- petites ; and were we squeamish or over-dainty we must lite- rally starve ; for our ship-cuisinier happens to be fit only to cook for the seasoned stomachs of old Neptune's hardiest sons. In strength and stature this governor of the galley might be deemed a fit opponent for Hercules, although his appearance sometimes calls up the idea of a sable spirit who had been long broiling in the dark regions of Pluto. His professional igno- rance is only exceeded by his general stupidity. He makes us a daily visit at breakfast-time, to receive instructions re- garding dinner; and he usually stumbles upon some outrageous mistake, or totally spoils whatever is put into his hands. A few days ago he was desired, together with other dishes, to let us have some beef-steaks; and having received his instructions, he "bent his neck, in respectful civility, and hastened away: but, within a single hour after, lo, and behold! came our cook running and puffing into the ward-room, with a dish of beef-steaks, all hot and smoking. He had used uncommon expedition in getting them ready, and, added to the blunder of giving us dinner an hour after breakfast, he had burnt the steaks as black as his own skin, and as dry as the outside of a tea-kettle. ' Spithead, November 19. * When, in my last, I mentioned to you the grand and splendid sight of an important division of our great expe- dition, I did not anticipate the painful leverse of, thus soon, communicating the unhappy tidings of its return. But, alas! how uncertain are all human expectations ! Pleased as we were at the proud sailing of this fleet, only a few days since ; Vol. I.--.(18) 3 F I'l; :m';( iilis •■■rm :,is!i 1 ■ i ■■•I *" < f- m W--\^ ^ ^11 f0 410 PINCKABD^S NOTES ON xiow we could rejoice still more, could we see every ship again safe in harbour. < We yesterday experienced a most tremendous gale, wluch, from its disastrous effects among the shipping at Spithead, led to very painful apprehensions concerning the fleet which had so lately gone to sea. The wind having shifted to an unfa- vourable point, and blowing with great violence, it was mani- fest that the convoy could not proceed ; «nd, but too evi^ent^ that many of the ships must be damaged or lost ; and I am sorry to add that we are, already, witnessing the melandioly confirmation of our feai's, for the fleet not having cleared tlvs channel, was unable to weather the storm, and, during ti^e whole of this day, different ships have been dropping in at St. Helcn''s, in a sadly disabled state, br]n^g still worse tidings of those left behind. A storm so violent and destructive has seldom been known in this climate ; indeed, iQany who h^vc been in the West Indies, remarked, that it w^s scarcely infe- rior to a tropical hurricane. Even the admiral''s ship was in extreme peril, and with great difficulty weathered the gale. She is now brought back in a much injured condition, beuig very leaky, and having a considerable depth o£ water in her hold. So alarming was her situation, during the storm, tha^t if the boisterous elements had raged on but a little longer, she had probably gone to the bottom, with the gfsneral, the ^chm- ral, and nearly 2,000 souls on board. We are told that she is so damaged as to be unfit for service, fmd that, notwith- standing the large sum lately expended in repairing her, she can never again be fit to go to sea. ' The damage done to the vessels, immediately aroynd us, and the perilous state of our own ship, although lying at an- chor, had caused a too faithful representation of the evils which might have befallen us, had we been on our passage to Ireland; and rendered us happy in not having previously gone to sea. Signals of distress were heard on all quarters. Pieces of masts, cordage, and planks floated by the sides of the Ulysses : all was hurry and alarm around us. Many ves- sels near to iis were injui'ed-T-some, drivra from their anchors, ses. THE WEST INDIES. 411 dtifted on board other ships, or were cast on shore, and, beinn; there wrecked, remained, before our eyes, sad examples of the greater disasters to be apprehended from the storm. ' In the midst of our apprehensions, and our danger, I could not but notice the strange remarks, and quaint jokes which passed among the sailors, who were variously actuated by feel- ings of inddcnce, anxiety, or indifference. One of them being called upon deck, and desired to go aloft, to do something that y0ea expedient at the top of the mast, idly crawled up from below muttering, " I'd rather be drowned in the sea, dammee, than at the mastVhead^ — another, observing a passenger in a severe fit of vomiting, exclaimed — " dammee, he's only sick for want o'gi'og'' — and a third, as if responsive to the other, called out, " stiff breeze Jack. He'll be worse yet ! Steward ! why don^t you give the gentleman a piece of fat pork to settle his stonnaeh.'' < About five o'clock in the evening the st^m began to abate; when torrents of rain lessened the wind, and brought the sai- tmrs some respite from the harassing and perilous duties of the day. From those who have returned in safety we hear many details of real, and of imaginary distress, of ludicrous inci- dents, and of very truly afilicting, and melancholy events; but the distressful sum of the whde is, that the fleet is ^verely damaged ; many ships are lost ; numbers of souls have perished ; and the whole expedition is disabled and de- layed;' "¥h i t-m duSt i an- evils ^e to lusly ters. es of ves- ihors, After some further delay, during which a thousand v.ague stories were circulated respecting the destination of the Ulys- ses, it was finally settled that she should make a running pas- sage to Martinique, in order to hasten thither a body of troops, without waiting for a convoy. The St. Domingo stores were therefore removed from the Ulysses, and our au- dUMT and Master were ordered to repfur on board the Lord Sheffield, a neat West India trader. Their companions were oonsigned to the George and Bridget, a heavy gloomy timber vessel. ;/ m^ 41S PINCKARD'S NOTES ON * Mother-bank^ Deceniber 8. * In my passage from Portsmouth to the Lord Shef- field, at the Mother-bank, I was exposed to such imminent peril as to have had scarcely a hope of escape. The necessary arrangements being made for occupying our new births, I left Portsmouth in a small four-oared boat, belonging to the Lord Sheffield, accompanied by Mr. Jaffray (the master of the ship) and Mr. M*^Lean, of the hospital department ; when, on our way to the Mother-bank, we were suddenly overtaken by a violent, and, situated as we were, most perilous storm. The sky blackened ; the tearing winds roared ; and the tumid sea, gathering into frightful mountmns, rushed before ^e wind in boisterous loudness, threatening us with instant destruction. Tossed from wave to wavtf, and dashed and rolled about, amidst the broken mountains of water, every moment seemed likely to be our last; for any one of the heavy seas might have upset our little bark, or have broken over us, and sent us at once,, to the bottom. Beset by multitudes of rugged, and liquid hills, rupturing on all quai'ters, and rolling and tumbling one over another towards her, so small a boat seemed to have no chance, nor even a possibility of maintaining herself upon the rude and ever changing surface. From the deep swelling of the sea, together with the constant agitation and breaking of thf; waves, the sailors could not take sufficient depth to pull steadily their oars ; nor could the boat be made to obey the helm. At one moment we were- raised, as it were, on a pin- nacle — At the next ingulphed in deep shade between two roar- ing surges, towering high aV*uve us, and seeming to say, " Ye shall never rise again." Yet, quickly, were we cast upon a new formed summit, and as suddenly dashed again into th« vale of still more rugged billows, each contending* in hasty s'lrife, which should be the messenger of our fate. * Poor M'^Lean, who had taken his s<&t at the bow, in or- der to trim the boat, trembled, and turned pale with fear ; the sailors grew tired and dissatisfied ; and the captain, with a countenance strongly expressive of trouble and anxiety, beg- ged of us not to speak, lest we should divert his attention from THE WEST INDIES. aa n or- fear ; with beg- from the helm ; u)x>n tlie manageinent of which our only chance seemed to depend. Sitting at his elbow, in dead silence, as he desired, I carefully watched his features as the barometer of my hopes and fears, and you will believe that I felt nol much at ease, upon observing him betray manifest symptoms of alarm. To move was even worse than to speak, and might be instant destruction to us all, hence it only remained to us to sit in solemn stillness, and meet whatever fate should over- take it. * The captain assures me that I behaved uncommonly well upon the occasion ; but I fear all tlie merit due to me was merely negative, for I am not sure that my conduct was not more the conduct of resignation, than of fortitude. Seeing that no effort, no power that I possessed, could in any degree md our safety, I resigned myself in implicit obedience to the captain'^s better judgment ; and, without expressing, indeed I might say, without harbouring useless fears, sat calmly pre- pared for any result that might occur. * To reach the Lord Sheffield was absolutely impossible ; for the wind and tide were both in concert with the storm, to prevent it : and to return to Portsmouth was scarcely less dif- ficult, or less perilous, from the inability of our little boat to resist the enormous following waves, impelled by all the force of the gale and the tide. * In this critical dilemma it was decided that we should bear away, and steer for the nearest ship there was any hope of our being able to fetch, and the captain, encouraging the sful- ors to continue at their oars, and bear away to leeward, direc- ted the helm accordingly. In this attempt we struggled on, often washed with the heavy sprays which struck against the boat, aifd as frequently almost upset by the tearing gusts of wind, or driven to the bottom by the disordered waves. But perseverance, together with great dexterity and address in the management of the boat, at length, succeeded in bringing us alongside the Diana frigate, where we were kindly received, and even cherished as fri^ids rescued from the devouring deep. "-'!-*«: ''pi "I m I! 1 414 PINCKARD^S NOTES ON * Having witnessed the danger to which we had been ex- posed, th*" officers in the moBt hbcral manner welcomed us on board, and refusing to hear a word of' apology, insisted upon our not attempting to put to Ksa again until every appearance of the gale had subsided. Indeed they gave orders that our boat should be hoisted on boards and desired that we would think only of making ourselves comfortable for the^ night In this tliey were imperative, nor wi!l you imagine th«t our obe-> dience was reluctant. ' We passed the night in rest and comfort. In the morn- ing Uie weather was settled and fine, therefore, after tsAdng Ib'eakfast with the Diana^s pleasant mess^ our boat was lowered dowp<, bad we made the best of our way to the Lord Sheffield, reluctantly quitting the hospitable party, with whom misfor- fortune had brought us acquainted. < Without further interruption we reached the Mother-bank, and I have now the pleasure to address you, in safety, from the Lord Sheffield, a very fine West India ship. She is tho- voughly clean, has a general air of neatness, aiu], if we may judge from her appearance, seems likely to verify the comman* der^s report of her sailing. She is conveniently fitted out for passengers, and is expressly calculated for the West Indie haviflig awnings, scuttles, port-holes, and all the necessary a^^ commodations for the climate. The cabin is commodious, and is fitted up with mahogany, wainscot, pier glasses, chairs, sofa, 8ic. due regard b^ng paid to taste and ornament. * Lord Slieffiddy Decembtr 8. ' Again I hare been unsettled, and moving about from pl«ce to place, makuig my home sometimes on board, some- tames on shore. Upcxi examining my baggage, soon after I joined the Sheffield, I perceived that (Hie of my boxes was ftiissiag ; and it has cost me a k)ng, mid very sickly round, to recover it, in oonsequencv' ^ our old ship the Ulysses hav- ulg changed her birth, and dropped down to St. Helenas to take in troops from the Commerce de Marseilles. In follow- ing her we were brought into an open and heavy-swelling sea, us. THE WEST INDIES. «U ^he motion of which made rae very unwell, and led me to oon- .jemfA&te the probable sufferings I have to 8upp(»t upon tht long voyage we arc about to undertake. * Captain JafTriiy never having been on board a ship of such immense bulk, availed himself of my necessities, and took the command of the booi, upon this excursion, in order to view the vast Commerce de Marseilles. I wish it were practicable to convey to you, in words, the sense of grandeur with which the mind is inspired on first approaching such an enormous floating battery ; or to paint to you the sensations excited by rowing, in a small boat, close under her stern, and her iidef ; but it were quite impossible to describe how diminutive we felt, and how immense and wonderful she appeared. — To ex- press it by the image of the knat and the camel, it were ne- cessary to suppose the former the minutest of its race, and the latter hugely overgrown. Looking up from our little skifiP the sight was truly awful — ^the figure of the ship was forgotton — the hull appeared a mountam, the masts lofty dbelisks erected upon it; and the tremendous batteries, projecting from her sides, conveyed the idea c^ a stupendous rock hanging over us, fortified wkh many tiers of cannon. * We also avculed ourselves of this excursion to make a visit to our friends on board the George and Bridget, which sliip appears still more sombre and uncorafurtable, after witnessing the neatness of the Lord Sheffield. * We returned yesterday to the Lord Sheffield, and you will be glad to know that we were accompanied by our friend Cleghorn, who, in consequence of a new arrangement, is per- mitted to join our mess, so that we have again the prospect of crossing the Atlantic pleasantly en quartette. Dr. Henderson is less fortunate, for while we are agreeably associated to our former number jf professional colleagues, he is lefl to make tbe passage alone, or perhaps crowded with strangers in the gloomy Gewge and Bridget : nor do circumstances now seem to afford any probability of a further change, for both the i^l^arance of the weather, and the report of the hour, seem to imply that we have, at length, made our ^nal visit on shore. m h'if I'L* .il'W '• ii 'W 416 PINCKARD'S rOTES OP * To-day a signal has been given for the fleet to unmoor ; and, in consequence of this, the Lord Sheffield has dropped down from the Mother-bank to the eastern part of Spithead. —We have taken the precaution of bringingf our linen on board, wet from the wash-tub, lest we should be compelled to leave it behind, for should the wind continue at the point from which it now blows, we may be to-morrow on our passage. * Lord Sheffield, at sea, Dec. 31. ' At length we are at sea ! the convoy sailod from Spithcad and St. Helens, the day after I sent you my last let- ter, and I now lift my pen to you ujwn the bosom of the At- iantic. ' On the first morning of our being at sea, the weather was clear and niiUl, and the 'vhoit- fleet, c"">iisting of nearly 300 vessels, of various magnitude and biu'den, was assembled in compact form, occupying a certain circle of the ocean''s surface, and gliding smoothly (m the passage. It formed one ot the grandest spectacles ever beheld. Never shall I forget climbing up the shrowds, as high as the main-top, to enjoy it in all its perfection. The sun shone ; the sea was smooth and undis. turbed ; the lur serene. All the smls were set, and the ves- sels being near to each other, the white canvas seemed spread, in crowded continuation, throughout the whole extent of the ffeet. Looking down upon the multitude of ships, it created the idea of a whole nation moving upon the waters. It was a proud emblem of Britain's glory. We appeared to command the whole empire of the main ; and the ))rospcct, being calcu- lated to excite flattering hopes of victory and success, could not fail to be viewed, by every true Briton, with delight. Biiit alas ! how delusive wore tliese auspicious dawnings ! We had advanced but little on oiu* passage, before a dire reverse suc- ceeded. The sun was now obscured : a thick fog overspread llie ocean; and the whole fleet was s^u.t from our sight. Dark clouds gathered around; the heavens scowled in terrific black- ness; the shadowed sea swelled with pregnant throes; tuid the ships heaved in sickening motion. At length the heavy clouds, bur*t into a roaring storm ; the waters broke into huge THE WEST INDIES. 417 \e3- read, the ited Ivas a iiand alcu- x)uld Biit ihad suc- rcad >ark lack- iuid eavy uge and tremendous mountains ; and the s\\\pf rollcil and pitched, in dreadful agitation, upon the ruptureottom ; and to this we were equally exfx>sed by the darkness of the night, and by a heavy fog The terror of these critical moments is necessarily augmented by the lively apprehensions of tliose who are but little accus- tomed to the sea: nor is this wonderful, ft)r, where every mo- tion, and every soiuid is calculated to excite alarm, he must be niore than a philosopher, ho must Ik^ a sailor, who ciui re- gard even the loss iuuiiinent }H)rils with unconcern. * During a storm, tho tleop rollings ol' the ship, her deeper lirches, tho thunilorijig ooiK'ussiou of heavy seas against her sides, the hollow dreary sound of tho wind howling in her sails and rigging, tho hurry and tho clamour of tlu' sliip's compa- ny, the tiaitoring ol' broken plates, dishos, anil basons, uid the dismal creakiiigs of the mast's, bulkheutis, ami otiier pai'ts of the vessel, all tH»n8|)iro to oroace tiuuuli -md C'.frifusion, and to keep alive the nuwt ticnjhling nppri'iionsiions. At one mo- ment the ship is upset, the next you ftol her strike upon a rock : suddenly she is shattered to atonih ; or, I'oundering, sinks to the bottom; and, while you arc absorl)ed in these sensations, a sea, or heavy spray breaks over the deck, a a G f4f .P HI 418 PINCKARD'S NOTES ON threatening wave beats in the quarter-gallery, or a rolling mountain dashes the stern windows into the cabin. The water now pouring upon you, from every opening, your fears are confirmed by the confusion of the moment, and you feel that the vessel is jiositively sinking. It has been my lot to expe- rience precisely these sensations. At one time I have hurried upon the deck, in the intention of throwing myself into the sea, there to cling to a part of the wreck, in the hope of out- living the storm : at another I have sat in silence, upon my birth, with the water creeping up to my knees, and, hopeless of being saved, have resolved to submit to my fate, and seek the deep without useless bewailings. Quickly the accident has been repaired, and in the moment of despair, I have been greeted with tidings of safety. ' Often, in the midst of threatening appearances, and mani- fold disquietudes, you are visited by the carpenter, with the " dead-lights," who, fixing them in the stern windows, nails you up in darkness, as in a cofHn, and with as much sang froid as men of his calling screw up the bodies of those who are actually dead : at the same time replying, with unfeeling indifference, to your anxious and fearful inquiries regarding the necessity of that step being taken, that it is " OfiHy to keep the spraij from hreahing tfie windows r But I am fatiguing you with a detail of what every one knows ; what all have read ; and most who have been at sea have felt : let me there- fore revert from storms in general to our present voyage, in which you will find perhaps more of novelty. * After the violence of the first gale, most of our scattered fleet, owing to the great attention and exertions of admiral Christian and his ofHcers, were again assembled, and we feli- citated ourselves in the hope of proceeding to our place of destination without further interruption : but the turbulent mountains t)f a disDidered sea were scarcely reduced to a more tranquil surface, before the storm was renewed with additional violence. Quickly we were more scattered than before. Many of the ships, unable to resist this second shock, were now much Injured, and obliged to put back into port. Some, we sup- ]X)se, again joined the admiral, and others wholly lost the con- THE WEST INDIES. 419 voy. We were among the latter, but when the weather cleared we fell in with a small division of the fleet, with which we sailed in company for several days. Further repetitions of the storm again separated us, and we were tossed about, seeing no more than three, sometimes but two, and often only a sin- gle ship, until, at length, we found ourselves quite alone upon the broad and merciless ocean. * Previous to our final separation we witnessed a scene of a most melancholy and distressing nature. Knowing the exqui- site sensibility of your feelings, on such occasions, I ought to spare them the sad relation, but that it may exhibit to you one of the dangers of the sea, in a point of view und?r which you may not, perhaps, have contemplated it. \c the most furious and terrific part of the storm, we suffered the cruel affliction of seeing a neighbouring ship in the utmost danger of being lost, without having the power of affording her relief She hoisted a flag, and fired guns of distress; but the gale was so dreadful, and the sea running so frightfully high, that it was totally impossible to give her assistance. Wo stood towards her, and kept her anxiously in view, in the hope of administering aid, should she be supported upon the surface until the weather became moderate. Unhappily the storm continued increasing rather than diminishing in violence. We looked fearfully on the ship, expecting every iastant to ste her go to the bottom. She repeated signal * distress. We heard them, and saw them, but were unable 1(j tibey thcni. It was a most melancholy and awful crisis. We regaiclfd her in anx- ious forebodings, examined her, both with the eye and with the telescope, again and again. Her masts were standing; her sails entire ; and the rigging apparently perfect; but this, which to landsmen would have seemed favourable, we di^' o- vered to be the very reverse ; for, hence it was that our best sailors formed the fatal conclusion that her situation was hope- less, and that she must have sprung a leak ! * We watched the heavens and the waters in painful siolici- tude, but saw no relaxation of the storm. Tremendous moun- tains at one moment concealed the wretched ship from our view : at aiotber we appeared to be enveloped, together, in ■;rr mil :| .i i: j X i m tit-'; ■II w 420 PINCKARD'S NOTES ON the same dark and dismal gulf. You will conceive our sensa- tions upon feeling, that, in one instant more, this deep pit of the ocean might be the grave of every soul on board. Signals, denoting the extreme of danger, were repeated : the sea rolled in terrific disorder : we bent our eyes in vain towards the ves- sel, deploring her threatened fate, and our own inability to prevent it ! Night came on. We lost her in darkness, and ——beheld her no more ! * At the period of separating from the fleet we knew not our place of destination, and hence it became necessary to op«i the sealed instructions : from which we discovered that Car- lisle bay, in Barbadoes, was fixed as the general rendezvous of thf fieet. Here, therefore, all our attractions lie, and to this port wc are endeavouring to steer; but adverse winds, and unprosperous gales perpetually opposed our pn^ress. It is now more than three weeks from the date of our depar- ture, and we are yet beating about much nearer to you than you imagine, having hitherto advanced on our passage only twelve degrees of longitude, and three of latitude. But in whatever latitude or longitude — amidst whatever storns <^ dangers, I am always yours. < At sea, Jaimary S4, 1796. * On concluding my former letter, I had pleased my- self with the expectation of not .«mm«mirnti»:^ another sen- tence of woe; but seven long weeks now have passed, and with difficulty can it be Sfud that we have had an interval of (me diurnal round, free from the perils of raging winds, or of the huge and shattered mountains thereby engendered ! * You, who know me, are well aware that my mind delights not to dwell on the dark surfat** of events. The severity of the trial is perhaps at an end. I'lidaunted, I yet look forward to the happy termination of our passage ; and even in our pre- sent suffering, see much of eventual good, for it will arm me against a multitude of future alarms ; abeady, indeed, am I become so courageous a sailor as to regard the recurring gales with patient firmness ; and to look with tranquil eye at the immense mountains which strike the sh «, or tlie dashing THE WEST INDIES. 4^a waves whicli out-top her masts: indeed I caii almost fancy that a f^jod ship is imperishable at open sea; and could you know what hours has borne, you would be inclined to embrace the opinion. She has amply proved herself to be what the sailors term a good sea boat ; and, from what I have said of our passage, you will feel the force of the technical expression that she can live in all weathers. The shocks anc^ beatings she has withstood, are almost incredible. Often have I felt astonished that the huge seas and raking >vinds have not torn every plank asunder, and shivered her to atoms. Her top- masts, yards, and different parts of the rigging have been carried away— -her sails spilt— >the quarter boards stove in : things have been washed overboard from the deck — seas have broken over her — sprays dashed in the cabin windows— ~and various otlier accidents and disasters have befallen her : yet all have been repaired, and she still rides triumphant I * Often our party meet with drooping countenances, and sit down in gloomy silence, not recovering their spirits through- out the day ! At other times they grow restless and irritable, and cannot remain a quarter of an hour in the same place During the severity of the storm I have often remarked how differently the scene has affected the minds of those accustom- ed, and those who are unaccustomed to the sea. The sailor patiently observes the gale, lowers the yards and topmasts,, furls or reefs his sails, makes all snug, and thanks the tempest for a holiday : — heedless of the perils which surround him, he extends himself in his hammock, or reclines his head on a plank or a locker, and, courting the tranquil embraces c^ Morpheus, regards the bowlings of the storm as his peaceful lullaby. The landsman, on the contrary, is restless and im- patient — Glistens in terror to the wind— and shrinks in agitation at every sound : the dai;^rs that are, he magnifies, and his mind is tortured in the crearion of others, which do not exist. Each moment to him breeds new alarms. He goes upon deck ■p>-looks round with affrighted eyes — his feet are unable to sup- port his trembling body — he clings to the companion docw- way, und thence ventures to ^al a look at the ocean and its waves. His head grows dizzy-^nausea seizes him, and he '31S5 ■;;iM« " !(«> (Til! m m U:p v 4Sa PINCKARD'S NOTES ON again descends to the cabin in extreme anxiety. He fixes himself in the leeward corner — places his elbows on his knees — his head on his hands, and, concealing his eyes, bewails his wretched fate ! Suddenly he again seeks the deck — multiplies all the perils of the moment — storms the captain and sailors with new questions, all expressive of his terror — fastens again to the companion door-way — gazes at the masts and sails — - observes the yards dip into the ocean — feels the yieldings of the ship — imagines hhe is upset — fancies the masts are falling overboard, and in each rolling wave beholds a devouring sea. Destruction occupies his mind ! He returns below — impa- tiently seats himself— seeks relief in a book — is unable to read — throws away the volume — again takes it up, and again throws it down : nausea returns, and he is seized with dizziness and reaching. His bodily feelings now augment the anguish and disquietude of his mind, and at length as a remedy for both, he prostrates himself in his birth ; but is still wretched and comfortless— all rest is denied him — sickness and anxiety re- main — and he lies rolling, in fear and anguish, to wear out the fury of the storm ! * When from the tossing of the ship we are unable to walk, or even to remain upon our legs, we seek a quiet comer of the cabin — seat ourselves — take up a book — and in patient read- ing hope for better weather. Occasionally we venture, in giddy and stumbUng steps, as high as the companion door-way, and looking round prophesy gentle breezes and smooth seas. In these visits we often feel wonder and amazement at observing the carpenter and his mates working, quietly, in the tops: and the sailors hanging about the yards and rigging, in seem- ing unconcern — tossed by each rolling sea from side to side, far beyond the Umits of the ship, and, not unfrequently, while seated at the end of the yard dipped and drenched in the foam- ing billows of the ocean ! The indifference of sea-faring men to the dangers around them is exemplified in every part of their conduct, and even in their common expressions. Often when we have felt the most vivid apprehensions from the fierce- ness of the ocean, and have tremblingly sought rehef, by an appeal to the captain or the mate, we have met only a look (( THE WEST INDIES. 423 of unconcern, or at most, the laconic reply " it blows Jresh.^ From their quaint and technical terms it is difficult for any one, unaccustomed to sea, to know precisely what they mean to convey. Their degrees of comparison are peculiar to them- selves, and at first not easy to be comprehended : taking the term fresh as the positive, they say it blows fresh-— \\. blows strong — it blows lutrd : and again, to denote the severest pos- sible gale, they assume hard as the positive — add an oath to form the comparative, and augment that oath to constitute the superlative : thus, it blows Jtard ; it blows d - ■ — ■- Iiard ; it blows d hard by . Previous to this extremity we are commonly furnished with an omen, by the captain coming down below to change his long coat for a short round jacket, and from this we always prognosticate unfavourably, it being a precaution which denotes busy, and perhaps, peril- ous employment. * Our steward is a very old sailor, tough as the ropes of the ship, and callous to every alarm ; and, being the person more immediately about us, it most frequently falls to his lot to be teazed with questions regarding the weather, the wind, and the sea ; and the steady apathy of his feelings, together with his excessive sang frmd and unconcern, have been often sub- jects of remark — sometimes, indeed, of vexation to us. Dur- ing one of our perilous storms, the wind having shifted to a point somewhat less unfavourable, although still blowing a terrific gale, the usual question was asked — Well, steward ! how is the weather ? " Squally^ squally^ gentleman — tlie wifid's coming about — bejine weather soon!" According to the feelings of this old weatlier-beaten tar, the severest tempests that we had suffered, had been only squalls, for, in the midst of the most tremendous gales, his reply had always been " Squally, a little squally, gentlemen.'''' — " Are we making anyway, steward?^' " Oh yes, Jine wind, quite free, going large, make s'lx or seven knots."" " But surely we have too much of this good wind, steward ?"" " Oh no, Jine wind as can blow, gentleman— but a little squally — rather squally."" * The ship's company often reap much amusement from the tittle accidents — th^ ridiculous tumbles — and the strange pos- 1 .1 i I ' H 'H ■l-lf): if » m M '■ 'fill' ■„. Ill s 'li I \> i:i ■'■■■'! 424 PINCKARD^S NOTES ON tures which the passengers are thrown into by the unsteady motion of the vessel: indeed we now feel so little alarm during a gale, that we sometimes disregard its perils, and join in their smiles and jokes at the ludicrous occurrences which happen among ourselves. Hogarth might have feasted upon th^m. In the confusion of motions, caused by the heavy seas, if we attempt to walk, -wejetch way^ and are tossed to the farthest side of the cabin, in all the odd and uncommon figures that can be imagined : and often before we can gain our legs, the ship yields to another wave, and we are tumbled in the most ludicrous manner to the opposite side, kicking, struggling, or crawling, amidst a confusion of moving chairs, stools, boxes, and other furniture. ' Our dinner ceremony is often rendered a humorous scene : at this hour the cabin being the general rendezvous of the party, we meet — crawl, trembling, towards the table—and tie ourselves in the chairs. A tray is set before us, with deep holes cut in it for the dishes, plates, and glasses ; the table and chairs are lashed to the deck ; yet one or other frequently gives way and upsets half the things in the cabin ! Presently enters the steward with soup, followed by his little slave with potatoes; and ihe servants with such other covers as there may chance to be. But scarcely are the things upon the table, and the servants stationed, clinging to the backs of our chairs, before a sudden lurch of the ship tumbles all into r** -order. Away go stewsird, servants, and little Mungo, to the lee-cor- ner of the cabin : the soup salutes the lap of one of us ; ano- ther receives a leg of pork ; a third is presented with a piece of mutton or beef; a couple of chickens or ducks fly to ano- ther ; the pudding jumps nearly into the mouth of the next ; and the potatoes are tossed ia all directions, about the deck of the cabin. One saves his plate ; another stops his knife and fork ; some cling to the table, thinklhg only of saving their persons; one secures the bottle; another, half fallen, holds up his glass in one hand, and fixes himself fast to his chair with the other. Chaos is renewed ! every thing is in* motion — every thing is in disorder and confusion. At the next roU of the ship the servants, staring with amazement, again feU^i THE WEST INDIES. 435 way, and with extended arms are tossed to the other side of the cabin, where they cHng fast, and remain fixed as statues, afraid again to move: and, although we are lashed in the chairs vourselves, it is with difficulty we can maintain our seats. Plates, dishes, knives, forks, and glasses, clatter together in all the discord of the moment : the steward and his boy crawling upon their hands and knees after the dancing potatoes, the flying fowls, or walking joints, are rolled over and over at our feet; and all is disorder and confusion. The ship new be- comes steady for a moment ; the scattered parts of the dinner are collected ; and those who have escaped sickness, again at- tempt to eat. Some, foreseeing all these accidents, fix them- selves in a corner upon the cabin-deck, and take the plate between their knees, fancying them in security : but quickly they are tumbled, in ridiculous postures, to the other side of the cabin, sprawling, with outstretched limbs, like frightened crabs. Some having no calls of appetite join not in the feast, but lie swinging up and down in their cots or hammocks; others remain rolling from side to side in their births. Some cry out with sore bruises ; some from being wetted with the sprays : one calls out for help ; another relieves his stomach from sickness; while others, lamenting only their dinner, loudly bewail the soup, the mealj and the pudding. Some abuse the helmsman ; others the ship ; and others the sea ; while all join in a chorus of imprecations upon the wind. * It has been commonly observed, that sailors have many prejudices and superstitions. They often predict a gale, from circumstances which seem to bear no kind of connection in the chain of cause and effect. The prejudice against whistling on board ship appears to be universal; nor do I remember ever to have heard a sailor whistle in any ship ; beyond the common whee-eiv, whee-ew, when he wants a breeze; and passengers ai*e even called upon to pay a forfeit should they, however inadvertently, be heard to whistle : but I forget that I am tiring you with uninteresting details, and that you may think my letter is growing as tedious as the voyage. Vol. I. 3 H I !!'■ ,l'i|f rll i I. !; m 4^G PINCKARirs NOTES ON * Carlisle bay, February V6. * Rejoice with nic and give thanks ! After all our perils and dangers we are again safe at anchor, with terra firma in view ! How delightful an element— «how cheering — how animating is the solid earth ! Even its grosser part is now endeared to us, and we hail the heavy soil in cordial sympathy, almost rejoicing that our very bodies belong to dull clay ! During nine long weeks had we been wandering, amidst a multitude of perils, upon the fickle waters, without once ob- taining even the most distant view of land: but of this enough ! Let me not recall to your mind scenes that we are endeavour- . ing to forget. Througliout the last fortnight the horrors of lx)isterous old Ocean have been assauged, and for two or three days, after writing my last notes, we were nearly becalmed. The foaming ^ laniic became smooth and tranquil as the fish- pond of a pleasure ground ;. and, while resting in the most genial temperature, we had only to lament the total absence of that wind, which had long been so frightfully abundant. — This placid interval was occupied in making preparations for fair sailing; and the captain flattered us with the hope of hav- ing passed the stormy latitudes. The top-gallant masts were set — the royals and steering sails made ready — fishing lines were thrown into the still sea — and an awning prepared for the quarter-deck ; all of which were indications of steady breezes, warm regions, and pleasant sailing. Sensible that you will feel your share of complacency upon the occasion, I must not neglect to note the event of a most joyous day — a day which will be held in gladness by our party, so long as returning years shall continue to place before us the S5th of January. — We were in latitude 27 deg. 49 min., the thermometer at 69 deg. The morning was mild ; the sea still and smooth, as a lake : all nature seemed hushed in silence, and no wind could be felt. We rose early, and enjoyed a steady walk on the now quiet deck. The sun, protruding from the bosom of a tranquil ocean, softly stole above the horizon, and swelling into globular form, mildly assumed refulgent brightness, and spread his genial rays around. From excess of motion we had THE WEST INDIES. 4127 now lapsed into perfect rest. We contcjiiplatcd tlic change with admiration and delight: yet wislied enough of wind to carry us on our voyage. The tiinoneer left the hehn ; and the ship remained immoveable upon the water. Casting our eyes over the silver surface of the sea, to behold the beau- teous rising of the sun, we offered aspirations that fierce Eurus, in the placid humour of milder Zephyr, might follow in his train. * At this moment the sky darkened ; the thermometer fell to 64; a gentle rippling spread lightly over the still surface of the water ; and, almost imperceptibly, brought us — a favourable breeze ! It was from the north-east-; and so soft and steady that scarcely did we feel the vessel in motion, ere •we were advancing at the rate of five knots an hour ! What we had so long a!id anxiously sought, was now arrived, and we most cordially hailed the trade wind ! The sailors announced it in loud greetings: need I say that we partook in their liveliest joy ! You will readily conceive, without ex})ect- ing me to describe, our feelings upon this occa«on. Never was a happier moment ! All sense of our long sufferings va- nished, and we were in perfect raptures on this glad event. Indeed we had much cause to think ourselves fortunate on being saluted by the favouring trades in their very earliest lati- tude. This was a most grateful period of our passage, and, together with the weather we have since experienced, has in some degree compensated former evils. The temperature grew cooler than it had been during the few days of calm. The breeze freshened, and all hands were busily occcupied in pre- paring and setting all possible sail, to obtain the full benefit of tliis great and constant trader"'s friend. Quickly new canvas stretched from every point of the masts and yards, and the ship, winged with five additional sails, widely spread her ex- panded pinions to embrace the breeze. * The crowded sails now remained night and day. No change: no new arrangement — occasional bracing, only, was required ! We stood before the wind, and in all the delight of fair weather, and fine soling, made from 160 to ^^00 knots within the sailor''s day — ^from noon to noon. In such seas, and ! r." m :'t|! u i?|; Ml n J' ■11' ■At-M m 'in '^% m\ 4S8 PINCKARD'S NOTES ON with such n wind, the ship's company might have slept ; leav- ing the helmsman only, to steer the vessel's course. The de- lay, the difficulties and dangers we had met with, served but to augment the value of the ever-cunstant trades, and to ren- der them even more enchanting than we had hoped. The steadiness of this friendly breeze, and its uncertainty of dura- tion, likewise enhanced its charms. So truly delightful did we find it, and so pleasant were the wide ocean, and the wea- ther, that, had not former sickness, with the torment of re- peated gales, already confirmed my abhorrence to the sea, I know not but I might have been led into the belief that dis- comfort and a sailor's life were not strictly synonunous ! * In the course of our passage, we fell in occasionally with stragglers of our unfortunate arniada, and remained in com- pany with them, until we were again separated by a storm, a thick fog, or the night. A few days before we reached Car- lisle bay, we were joined by No 4. transport, with troops, and a band of music on board. This was a happy rencontre, and afforded us a most pleasing novelty. The day had been fine ; the evening was mild and clear : gentle Cynthia, with her sil- ver beams, seemed to aid the general stillness that prevailed. Every thing conspired in favour of the music, and the notes of the various instruments, coming to us across the water, were so sweetly soft and melodious as to convey the idea of celestial harmony. We listened in raptures, and, feeling quite enchanted with her delightful sounds, we hoped to continue in the society of our new companion during the remainder of the voyage : but the night concealed us from each other, and, when Aurora again opened the gates of the east, we perceived, with strong regret, that we had already to lament our h xmonic associate. ' It was a gi-eat advantage to us l)eing on board a West In- dia trader, for the ships built in this climate, being intended for a hot climate, are constructed with much attention to the comfort and accommodation of passengers, and have all the oonveniencies of ports, scuttleJioles, window-blinds, awnings, &c. ; from the want of which, many of the transports were distressingly close and oppressive. As soon as we had entered THE WEST INDIES. 499 the trades, our ports and scuttles were beat open, and we had a free circulation of air, through the cabin, night and day.-~. The windows were likewise opened ; and, as we sailed before the wind, the Venetian blinds admitted the breeze, while they excluded the rays of the sun. From these means we were kept pleasantly cool below; and when upon deck we were protected by a canvas awning, under which we had a shaded walk, ven- tilated by a free current of air. Having several bathing tubs on board, we had likewise the cotnibrt — the luxury I might say, of plunging into sea- water every morning ; and, in order not to meet the torrefaction of these burning regions, with all the rigid fibre, and strong vascular action of Europe, I have adopted the plan of using a very abstemious diet, and have submitted to a short preparatory course of medicine. My oomrades smile at the precaution, but, aWtou^h doctors may disoffreet 1 shall hope on some futui-e day to exhibit to you, the good effects of this early discipline. Wine, it is said by many, will counteract the heat of the climate. Lei those take it who think so — my faculties have not yet enabled me to com- prehend the ingenious doctrine which would employ fire to extinguisii heat — nor has my sagacity taught me how to quench a flame by the addition of oil, or aether ! * Many days previous to our arrival in Carlisle bay, the increase of temperature had brought out upon our skins that troublesome eruption called prickly Jieat. Our bodies were covered with it, and the irritation and itching it occasioned were intolerable. Our companicm. Dr. Cleghom, being an early sufferer from it, demanded of those who had been accus- tomed to the West Indies, how long his skin was thus to be tormented ? So long, good doctor, as you remain in healtli, was the reply ! Upon which, with additional rubbing and scratching, the doctor jocosely, although somewhat impatient- ly, exclaimed in the accents of his country, " P'aith cap- tiun, and would you carry us into never-ceasing torment ? ""Bout ship and tack for England immediately.'" < On the morning of the lOtli instant the boatswain descried tbe highest points of Barbadoes, wlien land! land! was in- ' I. .1 m 430 PINCKARD'S NOTES ON stantly echoed throughout the ship, to the great joy of all on board ; and to the boatswain''s profit, who, being tlie first that sounded the glad tidings, became entitled to the customary fee of a bottle of rum, or brandy. It required the eye of a sailor to distinguish the all-delighting terra firma^ amidst the clouds ; the passengers looked, and looked in vain ! a nearer approach of yet some leagues was necessary to render it visible to the eye of a landsmi^n, and when Ave at length discerned it, the earth appeared only as the more fixed of the clouds — forming a dark streak a little above the horizon. This streak grew gradually more and more distinct, till breaking as w«? advanced it beca iie uncquat, and assumed the form of moun- tains ; and at length the appearance of land. Soon we disco- vered it to be the northern point of the island of Barbadoes ; but Carlisle bay is to the south : we had, theretbre, to coast round nearly half the extent of the island, l*ofbre we could reach the harlx>ur. This delay afforded us a gfjod opportunity of viewing the island. We stood near in, and could observe distinctly the objects on shore. I took my seat upon deck, and with an anxious eye, aided by the telescope, minutely ex- amined every tiling we passed. The mind, ever active, gene- rally forms to itself some image of the things we hear spoken of, before an opportunity occurs of seeing them. Often the picture is very incorrect and extravagant ; but, upon the pre- sent (X!casion, I was pleased to find that I had formed to my- self a tolerable accurate copy of the West Indies, from the descriptions I had heard and read. In particular of the ap- pearance of the fields, and of the slaves, labouring with the whip at their backs, had been painted very correctly in my imagination ; for, I now ■'aw them, iu reality, what my mind \-id long represented them. ' We irjade the entrancj of the ha?.'bour, just as the sun vas sinking into his watery bed, for the night ; and it was in de- bate whether we could fetch in liefore it grew dark, when it was suddenly decided agiunst us, by the wind shifting and coming round directhi a-head. This we leamtKl was the land breeze. In these regions the trade-wind blows from the sea, > THE WEST INDIES. 4dJr Imy lind Iv.as Ide- lit land land during ths day ; but this commonly subsides^ as the svin goes down, and a contrary breeze sets in, from tiie land, which continues '.o blow throughout the night. * Being prevented from coming to anchor, we stood off and on «t the harbour"'s mouth until morning, when we discovered that we had no cause of regret in this additional delay ; for all the beauties of Carlisle bay were now exhibited to us — not only under the still light of the morning, but brightened by the golden rays of a rising sun. Had we gone in at night, we must have lost a most enchanting prospect ; and the loss had been irremediable, for, after the eye had been accustomed to tlie rich foliage, the houses, tht' towns, the fields, and all the pe- culiarity of tropical scenery, the impression we now felt could never have been excited. The mind was at this moment in a state to enjoy them : the novelty was great, and every object striking. We had been long at sea, and the eye sought eagerly the shore. Land was anxiously desired : the view of it opened to us very favourably ; and, from all the various circumstances conspiring to its improvement, the prospect was rendered more delighful than it could have been at any other period. * The harlx:)ur is a fine open bay, the whole of which, with it> varied shores, wwre before the eye : many ships were riding at anchor, and a multitude ot boats and small vessels were sailing and rowing to and fro. The two points of land at the entrance serve as a defence ; yhile they augment the beauty of the harbour. On one of them appears a formidable battery, together with an extensive barrack for troops : on the other is a fine grove of mountain-cabbage, and coco-r.ut trees. Through the shipping at the bcittom of the bay, are seen numbers o*" neat cottages ; among which arc interspersed various trop'cal trees, affording the protecting ahelter of their umbraeeroom of fine-dresssed merchantmen. Here each ship exhibits her lx»t apparel, and vying vnth the others, holds out her lures to catch the eye of every beholder. The decoration is universal. From head to stem, not a plank, a mast, a yard, nor scarcely a rope escapes; each receives a full-dress coat of paint, or is made new with a black varnish of tar. The painting of the more prominent parts of our ship being completed, the progress of cleaning, and new-dressing was extended to such minutiae as to become very highly ridi- culous. A painting mania seemed to have seized the whole crew, and every one was up to his clbow!'. in grease, tar, and paint. The capstan—the quarter-boards — the binacles — the hen-koops — every thing around us was bedaubed. The can- non— xtiiu hand-spiicee-— tlie capstan bars— -the barrels— the may, ocean of hisi imput was fo therefd lant much hung wasdc only, Vol THE WEST INDIES. 433 a buckets— -the very handle of the pump — all were painted—all put into one uniform of black and yellow. Not an inm ring, a bolt, nor a nail was neglected — not even the cannon balls escaped — and, that nothing should be omitted, the inner sur- face of the water buckets, regardless of health, were dressed With their poisonous coating. Never "was system more univer- sally observed ; nor idle excess rendered more conspicuous. Not an inch, nor an atom, but appeared in Lord SheffieWs livery ; black and yellow prevailed from the highest point of the masts, down to the very water's edge. Nothing can con- vay to you a stronger idea of the fine steady saiUng, in a trade wind, than to know that the outer part of the ship is painted at sea, by men hanging in ropes at her sides, while .she is pro- ceeding with full sails on her passage. * The sailors have another, and yet stronger pride, which respects the sailing of their vessel : like every man's horse, — every sailor's ship is the best in the tcorld, — every captain com- mands the quickest sailing vessel of the fleet ; and he would cease to merit the honour of a jacket, who could he brought to acknowledge, however true it might he, that his ship wa.s a bad sailor : for, however manifest this shall appear, en excuse is never wanting. She is in bad trim — she is too much astern —too much ahead — is too deep — too light — the breeze is not from her point — she sails best upon a wind — before the wind- she makes best way in a gale — in a light breeze : so that be the weather, and the attendant circumstances whatever they may, here is a side-xoind for each of them ; and a son oi' the ocean is always expert enough to appropriate tliem in favour of his vessel, so as to guard her, at every point, against the imputation of being a dull sailor. It happened that our ship was found not to advance in proportion to the breeze ; it was, therefore, deemed expedient to gi\e her a new main-top-gaU lant mast ; and this was put up, in the night time, with as much secrecy as if the failure of the whole expedition had hung upon its disclosure. We afterwards discovered that it was done in the dark, not to conceal it from the passengers only, but firom the ship's company of a vessel, which happened Vol. I.-(19) 3 I 'ill 'IIP tl'i m ■ 'Ji !S|I|| 434 PINCKARD'S NOTES ON then to be sailing near us ; and with which the Lord Sheffield was secretly vying in her progress. ' A day or two after we had entered into the latitude of the trade-wind, we had to pass the tropic ; which was an occasion of great mirth and festivity. The usual ceremonies were per- formed — the usual honours paid to old Neptune, and all was hoUday. The great deity of the ocean, accompanied by his queen-rib of the waters, ascended from the deep, in order to witness the baptism of such of his children who had not, al- ready, done homage at his font. This is a ceremony which is, commonly, thought to be ludicrous : l)ut, in the way it is conducted by the rough tars, it becomes a very dirty and se- vere process. It is extended to every person on board, who has noi Ijcfore been witliin the tropics, varying only in its mode of ap})lication, and in its severities. * The old sailors are careful to discover, in the course of the passage, which of their mess-mates have not undergone the discipline of this tropical baptism ; and on this day, all who are marked for the ceremony are led ujjon deck, one by one, blindfolded. In this state the young sailor is made to seat himself upon a small narrow plank, laid across a large tub of salt water, or upon the edge of the tub itself, and, in this pe- rilous situation, they administer to him a long and ridiculous oath ; then offer him a glass of gin, by way of cordial, which they compel him to drink, and finds it to be only a glass of salt water. They then smear his face with a nasty com- pound of grease, tar, and stinking oil, taking care in the ope- ration to force some of it into his mouth. The next step is to shave this off, and the razor employed for this purpose is com- monly a j)iece of an old iron lujop, beat full of notches. The filth being in part scraped from his chin, with this rough in- strument, the baptismal process is completed by the plank, , upon which he is seated, being suddenly withdrawn, and the young initiated plunged head and ears into the tub of water ; where he is made to lie kicking and sprawling for a consider- able time ; after which he is permitted to rise from his briny birth ; when his eyes are unveiled — he washes his countenance, and issues forth a privileged son of old Neptune-;^^'^ to range THE WEST INDIES. 435 I'lHif in the tropical seas. If he contends, or offers any resistanie, he is treated with three or four dippings, instead of one ; he, therefore, finds it best not to be refractory, and smothers his wrath in the secret pleasure of witnessing a similar process im- posed upon the rest of his messmates. Every one, whether sailor or landsman, is called upon to undergo tliis christening ceremony, as the task of initiation. * As passengers we were honoured with a visit from father Neptime and his spouse, to welcome us to their tropical dwell- ing, and to announce to us the baptismal vow : but v/c com- promised the discipline of dipping and shaving, by offering the tribute of a few gallons of rum ; and petitioning the beau- teous Amphitrite to intercede in our l)ehalf Nevertheless, we were taught that it would be prudent to remain quietly in the cabin, during this briny christening of tlie sfulors. ' The servants were led by curiosity to ^ isit the deck, hop- ing to witness the ceremony without becoming themselves the objects of it; but they were speedily presented with a complete washing of sea-water, and obliged to beat a hasty retreat, in order to escape the shaving : one of them, who was a great coxcomb in his dress, grew violently enraged, and felt highly indignant that the sailors should dare to wet and spoil his clothes ; and in his anger he ran down below to ai*ni himself with a sword, then returning upon deck, swore that he would run the first man through the body, who should throw water , upon him again : but scarcely had he said tlie wiords, and brandished the sabre, btifore several buckets of water were dashed upon his head and shoulders, by some sailoris who had placed themselves in the main-top. The jxxir man stormed violently, swore, stamped, and vowed vengeance. The sail- ors, laughing at his impotent rage, ctHitinuti! to pour down bucket after bucket. He was unable to climb up the shrojds; and they diverted themselves at his wratli and distress, until, at length seeing tliut they tleHed all his threats, he again re- turned to the cabin, loading them with imprecations, and loudly vowing vengeance, unmindful that his best remedy was to change his clothes, wipe himself dry, and lot liis choler ^i :i;J IM> ■siWfl i!'.;!: 486 PINCKARD^S NOTES ON subbidc. Custom is absolute, and, in the hands of such hardy ministers, it were folly to oppose its despotic government. ' During our fine tropical sailing we were frequently amused in observing the immense shoals of porpoises, dolphins,, and flying fish, which, from time to time, assembled about the ship. The frightful shark and spouting grampus also made us frequent visits. The shoals of dolphins are often so im- mense as to cover tlie sea into a kind of rich and dazzling mine, in which the lively interchanges of colour out-rival all the splendour of brilliants and gold. * The day before we made the land we met with shoals of flying fish of much smaller size than those we had commonly seen—not larger indeed than sprats. On rising out of the wa- ter, in large l)odius at a time, they caused a sound hke the splashing of rain, which being heard by the captain, he in- stantly exclaimed, " Ha ! bravo ! land, land ! here are the Utile splasherSy we carCt he Jar from the land r This small race of flying fish, it seems, is never observed at any great distance from the shore, nor in the dec^^cr parts of the Atlan- tic : wherefore their appearance is assumed as a sure prognos- tic of a speedy approach to the land. * Like all young sailors we felt our attention strongly at- tracted by the phenomenon of the lights produced in the sea, at night, from the ship beating her way through the water We often witnessed them in a very striking degree, and were, frequently, led to the forepart of the ship to view them in their brightest splendour ; for there the ship appeared to be sail- ing through liquid flames. On every side the lights were vivid and beautiful, but at the forecastle we saw the pitchings and ])lunges of the vessel strike out wide flashes, resembling sheets of fire. The great noise at the head of the ship likewise ad- ded to the effect, and it required very little help of the imagi- nation to create a behef that we, actually, heard the sparks and crackUng of more destructive flames. At the stem these lights appear as if they poured from the vessel in bright streams of fire, extending to a considerable distance in her wake. THE WEST INDIES. 437 * Wc drew up buckets of water occasionally to the deck, and found that by agitating it, either with the hand or a piece of wood, we could excite the same luminous appearance : but, after disturbing it for a short time, this effect ceased ; and no degree of agitation was sufficient to renew it in the siune water. You know die various theories and speculations which have been offered in explanation of this phenomenon, I need not, therefore, swell my letter by repeating them. * The various beautiful rising and setting of the sun and the moon were the frequent and adm'u'ed subjects of our con- templation. Viewed from a West India sea, the surface of these orbs does not appear like a mere plane fixed in the hea- vens as in Europe, but their convexity and globular fonn are seen very distinctly. When rising they appear as detached globes protruding from the deep: at setting they resemble dis> Unci spheres sinking, or rather dropping, divested of their rays, into the ocean. * The moon is brighter than in England, and reflects a clearer Ught. When only a few days old the whole orb is vi- tiible-— not decked in uniform brightness, as when it is at the full, but with the great body in shade, while the horned edge alone is dressed in silver. * The appearance of the western sky was likewise an object of novelty to us. By day the whole canopy is one fine azure expanse, bright and unclouded; but, at evening, dark and mountunous clouds accumulate, and, gathering into deep heavy masses, impend in awful majesty of form over the ho> rizon.** The passengers in the Lord Sheffield were informed of the threatening aspect the French, under Victor Hugiics, had as- sumed, of the perilous state of St. \'incent and Grenada, of the loss of the Laeda frigate, and of the non-arrival of the convoys. ' The delight we felt on the gliul occasion of setting our feet, agun, upon terra Jinna^ proceeds our author, * was more exquisite than I cuii express ; and it was highly aiig- it .1,; .11 i sir nil 1 1 i II ' •• ,'i ' II. ,: ; ( I'll m '■4,' % \l Ij'tl I'.ll-.jll '-I r'i.i m Hi I !l ' 438 PINCKARD'S NOTES ON merited by the novelty that surrounded us. The houses, the streets, the people, the fruit, fisli, and vegetables, the trees, the fields, every thing before us, was new. The very means of labour and amusement were novel, and all combined to in- dicate the change we had made — all bespakc our removal from a northern to a tropical latitude. We gazed on all we met, and all we j)assed. Objects which at other moments had been trifling and unim[)ortant, now called forth our attention. The eye of curiosit) suffered nothing to escape. Ideas crowded upon our minds in such rapid succession, that the confusion of chaos seemed to bo renewed. The universal metamorphosis that surrounded us prevented our digesting the scene, which presented itself, into any thing of order or arrangement : yet was the whole uncommonly gratifying; and, without being ■able to discriminate, we contemplated, in a sort of pleasing reverie, this seeming change of worlds. Complex as are the feelings of such a moment, I have often wished that they were .less fleeting, or could more frequently recur ; for, upon such occasions, the mind seems to enjoy unparalleled dehght ; and to dwell with rapture, on objects which, under other circum- stances, would pass unheeded by. * We took our umbrellas in our hands, by way of pai'asols, but found less occasion for them than we had been taught to expect ; for although the heat was greater, by several degrees, in Bridge Town than in the harbour, we did not feel from it •any degree of langour or oppression. A pleasant breeze coun« teractcd the ardent rays of the sun ; and at our first visit we rambled for two hours about the town, to the barracks, and into the fields, with far less Inconvenience from heat, than I have often ^experienced in the close and sultry days of Eng- land. ' Carlisle bay, Fehmary. ' From the details I gave you of our tedious voyage, you will learn with surprize that we still continue to live on board ship. But to this we have many inducements. It is much cooler in the harbour, than it is in Bridge Town ; we arc much less annoyed with musquitoes ; and, from oiu* be* beef, ter of quite species excelle very fi for ins or foui fore ui and so and a Europ Irm: WEST INDIES. 439 longing to the St. Domingo staff', and being in daily exjxxjta- tion of r'»ciriving orders to proceed to that island, v. s arc at all nioinc[its r/^udy to move, and without the risk of leaving our baggaj» c bcliind; moreover, by living on l)oavd, while we arc detamed to windward, our sea-habits are continued, and per- haps we may thereby avoid the tormenting sickness of a second voyage. * We have a regular mess established. Every morning we go or send to market for j)rovisi()ns; and our domestic ar- rangements are better regulated, and in more of comfort than if we were on shore. Occasionally we dine, and spend the whole, or part of a day at Bridge Town, but we never fail to return on lx)ard to sleep. * We find that the accommodations of a West India tavern, although not precisely what a Bond-street lounger would ex- pect in St James's-street, or a high fed alderman in the city, are by no means despicable : and you know that I am enough a soldier, and a traveller, rather to court the varieties wc meet, than to repine, and regard them as hardships, because they are not, in every feature, the same as we are accustomed with in England. * But you have desired to be told of these varieties as they occur, and I have an early opportunity of trying your patience. Our first dinner on shore was at a tavern in Bridge Town, kept by a mulatto woman, Mary Bella Green. • Plenty pre- vailed. The crowded table smoked with fish, a piece of boiled beef, a pepper-pot, a turkey, some roasted veal, and a quar- ter of mutton, with several different kinds of puddings, and quite an assortment of vegetables, of eight or nine different species — European and tropical. Our liquors were — most excellent bottled porter, good Madeira, tolerable claret, and very fine Noyeau. In the dessert we were sadly disappointed, for instead of the fine tropical fruits we had expected, three or four of the very common and inferior species were set be- fore us, unripe, and bad in quality: viz. groaves, bananas, and sour-sops, with some tough and bitter shaddocks — to any, and all of which, the commonest apples, or gooseberries of Europe had been preferable. But Barbadocs is not an island M:K| 440 riNCKARDS NOTES ON a1)oiindiit^ in the finer fnills of the clininte, lienco we do not judge of the deiitioiis prothictious of the West Indies by thin ill-chosen sample. ' Our party, for whom we had <«-dcred dinner, consistetl of nine persons, but upon coming to table, we found covers for fifteen, and learned that, instead of giving us a private din- ner, as we had directed, they had put us into a large public room, and served a kind of table (Tftote. Not being prepared for this arrangement, we remonstrated against it, and, with some difficulty, prevailed in havinj; the extra-covers removed ; but we soon perceived that we had gained little by thus inter- rupting the customs of the house ; for they directly spread another tabli? in the same room, and, setting down six stran- gers close by us, divided the dinner they had dressed between the two parties. * In making out their bill for payment, they do not detfdl the separate articles of the dinner, the number of liottles of wine, the different plates of fruit, &c. as in England, but put down the whole sum, under the three general items of dinner, mine, andjruit; and, at any house vou arc accustomed to use, if you call occasionally in a moi, ng to rest, or to take shelter from the .sun, or rain, they give you a glass of lemon- ade, or of cocoa-nut water, with a " vei-y zoelcorne,"" and consi- der thenjsclves rewarded, by the payment you make when you take dinner at the house. Nor is the demand for this at all extravagant, except, in so far as regards the bad fruit. We paid a dollar each for dinner; the same for the wine; and half a dollar for the dessert. * They make the wine and porter very pleasantly cool, by putting the bottles in wet cloth bags, and placing them in the open windows, for some time liefore dinner ; taking care to sprinkle them occasionally with water, as they stand exposed to the breeze. A very rapid evaporation is thus produced, and consequently far more heat carried off, than by merely setting the bottles in cold water. The porter is so highly im- proved by the climate, and rendered so pleasant, by this me- thod of cooling, as to be very superior to any tliat is drank in England. THE WEST INDIES. 441 III;,! ' The attendants of the table are very nunicrons, black and yellow, male and female — perhaps too numerous to serve you well ; for they are badly regulated, and the duty of one being the duty of all, it is not regarded as the particular duty of either, and consequently is apt to be left unheeded. Each, being idle and inactive, waits for another to step liefore him, when any thing is called for; and, although you have a crowd <»f servants around you, it is difficult to obtain what you want. ' The females are usually of erect figure and stately carriage, but they move in all the largour of the climate. They appear without shot-, and stockings, in a short white jacket, and a thin short petticoat. They wear a white tm*ban on the head ; but the neck and shoulders are left bare. Silence is not es- teemed a necessary qualification among them, for they often join, with great freedom, and a sad drawling accent, in the conversation of the table. This will appear to you but little consistent with the reserve and abject forbearance of slavery ; but it is in consequence of the public situation in which these women are placed, and the familiarity that is commonly used towards them by strangers — to any, or all of whom they are the very obedient, obliging, and most convenient humble ser- vants. * On first making inquiry respecting the accommodations of the house, we were surprized to learn their extent, and the facility with which they are attainable. A bed may be had for a half a dollar a night, or three dollars a week ; and, for an additional sum well understood, the choice of an atten- dant to draw the curtains. * The hostess of the tavern is usually a black, or mulatto woman, who has l>een the favoured enamorata of some backra [the negro term used for white] man ; from whom she has ob- tained her freedom, and perhaps two or three slaves to assist her in carrying on the business of the house ; where she now indulges in indolence, and the good things of life, grows fat, and feels herself of importance in society. To those who, in compliance with the Highgate privilege, court her particular attention, in preference to the more youthful attendants around her, she is w.ipposed not to be violently cruel. Vol. I. 3 K •Hifl ml \\ '" H l\i ■4>i{ [1: Ult PINCKARD^S NOTES ON < It if to her advantage that the female attendants of her fiunily should be as handsome as she can procure them. Being slaves, the only reoompence of their services is the food they tat, the hard bed they sleep on, and the few loose clothes which are hung upon them. One privilege, indeed, is allowed them, which, you will be shocked to know, is that of tenderly disposing of their persons ; and this offers the only hope they have of procuring a sum of money, wherewith to purchase their freedom : and the resource among them is so common, tliat neither shame nor disgrace attaches to it ; but, on the contrary, she who is most sought, becomes an object of envy, and is proud of the distinction shewn her. * One of our attendants at tabic, appeared, both from her conversation and behaviour, to be very superior to her de- graded station. She had notliing of beauty, nor even pretti- ness of face, but she was of good figure, and of respectable and interesting demeanor, and, in point of intellect, far above her colleagues. Together with gentleness of manner, and an easy, pleasant address, she possesses a degree of understand- ing and ability which claim respect. In principle, and in sen- timent, she appeared virtuous; and, from the frankness of her replies, it was evident that she knew no sense of wrong in her conduct. We could not but lament, that the imperious habits of the country did not allow of her being placed as a more respectable member of society. * This woman is the great support of the house— -the bar- m«ud, and leading manager of the family. Her mistress had refused to take 100 guineas for her ; which, she assured us, had been offered by a gentlemen who would have purchased her. She has a very lively interesting little daughter, a Mes- tee, about four years old. Of this child she spake with ,;reat tenderness, and appeared to bear it all the fond attachment of an affectionate parent. Yet, as the infant was born in slave- ry, should the mother by any means obtmn her freedom, she cannot claim her child ; but must leave it, still the disposable property of her mistress, etiually liable to be sold as any other piece of furniture in the house: for, in Barbadoes, the offspring of a woman in slavery becomes the absolute property of the THE WEST INDIES. 44d owner to whom the mother belongs, whether it be black, ^'el- low, or white ; as the law knows no period when the child of a slave shall be bom free, however removed irom the African : nor can the mother, under any circumstances of subsequent liberation, claim her infant from its owner, even though it i^ould be of fairer skin than the fairest European. Thus are the natural ties of our species torn asunder ; and the dearest attachments, and purest affections of the heart cruelly broken down ! Babes are separated from their parents, and mothers robbed of their children, by this unnatural appropriation of human substance ! * The manners and the circumstances attending the situation of this mulatto were strongly interesting. Her yrhxAe deport- ment bespake a degree of delicacy and refinement, together with a superiority <^ mind and understanding ! H^r intelli> genoe and quickness ef perception assured us that si>." !iad talents capable of high improvement ; and it is probable, tnat had fortune so placed her in life, as to have aSered her the acquirements of a chaste and cultivated education, this woman, notwithstanding the colour of her skin, had made a faithful and virtuous wife ; been an ornament to her friends and socie- ty ; and a blessing to the man who should have made her the partner of his hours. * The taverns are commonly known by the names of the persons who keep them. The most frequented, at Bridge Town, are those of Nancy Clarke and Mary Bella Green ; the former a black— -the latter a mulatto woman. Mrs. Clarke or Mrs. Green would scarcely be known ! A party is said to dine at Mary Bella Green's, or at Nancy Clarke^s-— n the same stone, imtil it was broken to pieces. A jTiulatto overseer attended them, holding a whip at their backs ; but he had every appearance of be'.ng as much a stranger to industry, as the negroes ; who '^ m m 440 PINCKARD'S NOTES ON proceeded very indolently, without seeming to lie at all appre- hensive of the driver or his whip, except when he made it fall across them in stripes. * In proportion to the work done by English labourers, and and the price usually paid lor it, the labour of thene slaves eould not be calculated at so much as two-pence per day ; for almost any two men in England would, with the greatest e&fse, do as much work in a ^ven time, as was performed by a dozen of these indolent meagre-looking beings. * In one of our late preambulations, we fell in with a party of negro women washing linen, at the opening of a river near the sea ; and a more disgusting sight I do not recollect ever to have beheld. They were old vonien, of strong-marked, aiid very hideous African countenance ; and had no regard to decency either of manner or persoii. Their bodies were naked, save a bit of blue cloth folded round the loins, and brought between the legs jroni l)ehind to fasten before. As they stooped down to dip the linen in the river, many of them exposed the crowded and callous scars of repeated punishment ; and when they moved themselves in rubbing the clothes, or beating them upon the large stones beftnre them, their long flaccid breasts fell over their arms, or hung in loose masses of corrugated skin flapping upon their bodies, so as to create n most disgust- ing and abhorrent appearance. * It has also happened to us to witness another species of indelicacy amojg the negro women, which is extremely offen- sive to an European eye. Regardless of decency, and of the crowd they meet, they are sometimes seen drawing their na- ked pendulous breasts as they walk along, and spilling their milk upon the public streets. " You will, perhaps, be more shocked than surprized that such-like indecencies liibould occur among the slaves ; but you will j(Mn in my regret that they should happen before the eyes of European wives, s,nd spinsters; and you will lament the sad eflRect which the frequent recurrence of such offensive scenes must necessarily have, in destroying that modest delicacy of sentiment, which renders so truly lovely, while it so much esinlts the female mind. THE WEST INDIES. 44T I ' Of this baneful effect, I am sorry to have it in my power to mention to you a striking example, which lately occurred to my noUce. Being in company with a large party of Europeans, and white Creoles, male and female, husbands, wives, widows, maidens, and strangers, at the time when the party was assem- bled, during the short moment before dinner, a sweet little babe, only a few months old, was brought into the room, by its black nurse^ to be exhibited to the company: when the wcnnan, who, with the exception of one short petticoat, was in perfect nudity, was desired before all present to suckle the cliild ; and its mother and grandmother, two of the most re- spectable ladies we have met since we left England, in order to please " little bab,** amused themselves by slapping, press- ing, shaking about, and playing with the long bljick breasts of the slave, with very indelicate familiarity, l)efore the whole company ; and without seeming to be at all sensible, that it was in any degree indecent or improper ! * In ail comers of the streets we meet with the filthy sight of pairs of negroes, of Iwth sexes, sitting and lying about, with their heads in each other's laps, picking out the swarms of ver- min which occupy their wool. This, as we had been told on board the slave ships, seems to be a feast of delight to the blacks, whether in freedom, or in slavery. ' Sunday is a day of festivity among the slaves. They are passionately fond of dancirg ; and the sabbath offering them an int. rval from toil, is generally devoted to their favourite amusement. Insteat'i of remaining in tranquil rest, they undergo more fatigue, or at least more personal exertion, dur- ing their gala hours of Saturday night and Sunday, than is demanded from them in labour, during any four days of the week. * They assemble in crowds upon the open green, or in any square or comer of the town, and, forming a ring in the cen- tre of the throng, dance to the sound of their beloved music, and the singing of their favourite African yell. Both music and dance are of a savage nature. The instrumental parts of the band consist of a species of drum, a kind of rattle, and their ever-delighting banjar. m 448 PINCKARD'S NOTES ON < The dance consists of stamping of the feet, twistings of the body, and a number of strange indecent attitudes. It is a severe bodily exertion — more bodily indeed than you can well ima^ne, for the limbs have little to do in it. The head is held erect, or occasionally incUned a Uttle forward — the hands nearly meet before — the elbows are fixed, pointing from the sides — and the lower extremities being held ri^d, the whole person is moved without lilting the feet from the ground. Making the head and limbs fixed points, they writhe and turn the body upon its own axis, slowly advancing towards each other, or retreating to the outer parts of the ring. Their ap- proaches, with the figure of the dance, and the attitudes and inflexions in which they are made, are highly indecent : but of this they seem to be wholly unconscious, for the gravity — I might say the solemnity of countenance, under which all this passes, is peculiarly striking, indeed almost ridiculous. Not a smile — not a significant glance, nor an immodest look escapes from either sex : but they meet, in very indecent atti- tudes, under the most settled, and unmeaning gravity of coun- tenance. Occasionally they change the figure by stamping upon the feet, or making a more general movement of the per- son, but they are only temporary variations; the twistings and turnings of the body seeming to constitute the supreme excel- lence of the dance. * Both musicians and dancers seem equally to delight in the amusement. They exert themselves until tiieir naked skins pour off copious streams. The band seem to be quite insensi- ble to fatigue, for, in proportion as the fluid distils from their pores, they increase their efforts, raising their voices, and beat- ing the drum and the rattle, with additional violence : and such of the spectators whose olfactories have no relish for Afri- can odours, are sadly annoyed by the high essenced exhalation which spreads itself around. * As I was looking on at one of these dances I observed a soldier's wife, from the north of the Tweed, gazinj^ with curi- osity and astonishment, amidst the throng: and seeing her f(»atures marked with dissatisfaction and surprize, I asked her what she thought of the African dance. " Ooti" said she, i THE WEST INDIES. 449 ! ** His an unco rcay o* spending the Sabbath night!" — And on my askinjT her it" there were any as pretty woman in the High- lands of Scotland, she instantly replied '* xvlietJier or not-^Jiey smell better^ * Presently a soldier passing that way, and observing the dance, asked a mulatto who was standing by for a cud of to- bacco, and twisting it between his lower lip and his teeth, forced his way through the crowd into the middle of the ring; and there placing himself, between the negro and the girl who were dancing, set the nymph in African step and figure. Wow- ski was responsive and they danced cordially together; but soon finished by footing it, in quick step from the ring, hap- pily enfolded in each others' arms; to the great disappointment of poor Sambo, who, no doubt, thought to regain his partner as soon as the soldier had grown tired in the dance. * Near this happy green happened a sad fracas between a negro man and woman, in consequence of gaming ; which' is a very prevailing passion among the blacks. The woman had w^n from the man three dollars, and some words having arisen between them, a scuffle ensued, in which the man had torn off the few clothes that covered the ebon dame, and exposed her in nakedness to the crowd. She in return tore and mal- treated his breeches; and the dispute now was whether the woman, having been the successful adventurer, ought not to make reparation for the further injury she had committed The man exclaimed with sad violence regarding the additional loss, sustained by the destruction of his indispensible apparel. The woman, putting all success at play out of the question, insisted that she was the injured party from having her petti- coat ruined, and being exposed in nudity to the multitude. * At length a respectable looking, and decently dressed ne- gro, who chanced to pass that way, kindly undertook to settle this important broil; and we observed that much deference Wt paid to his opinion: but I am not satisfied ^hat he acted quite the part of an upright and impartial judge, — certainly his (/jiinion was not fraught with gallantry, for having no eye of pity towards the distressed and naked nymph, he decided that a hole in the culottes was an evil of greater magnitude 3 I. *i m iM I . ,! i 450 PINCKARD'S NOTES ON than a rent in the petticoat^ and accordingly decreed that Pe- nelope should forfeit half a dollar to Cassandro, for taking him by the breeches. * Having led you to the merry song, and sprightly dance of the slaves, let me now conduct you to the bed of death. — Seeing a crowd in one of the streets, aixl obscving a kind of procession, we followed the niultitude, iind S(X)n found our- selves in the train of a negro funeral. ^Vishing to witness the ceremony of interment we pnx^eeded to the burial ground with the throng. The corpse was conveyed in a neat small hearse, drawn by one hoi*se. Six boys, 12 men, and 48 women, walked behind in pairs as followers, but I cannot say as deeply afflict- ed mourners. 'LMic females were neatly clad for the occasion, and mostly in white. Grief and lamentations were not among them : nor was even the semblance thereof assumed. No so- lemn dirge was heard — no deep sounding bell was tolled — no feai'ful silence was lield. It seemed a ))eriod of mirth and joy. Instead of weeping and bewfuling, the followers jumped and sported as they passed along, and talked and laughed with each other in high festivity. The procession was closed by five robust negro fishermen, who followed behind playing antic gambols, and dancing all the way to the grave. * At the gate of the burying ground the corpse was taken from the hearse, and borne by eight negroes, not upon their shoulders, but upon tour clean white napkins placed under the eofBn. The body was committed to the grave hnmediately on reacliing it, without cither prayer or ceremony ; and the coffin directly covered with earth. In doing this much decent atten- tion was observed. The mould was not shovelled in roughly with the spade, almost disturbing the dead with the rattling of stones and bones upon the coffin, but was first put into a basket, and then carefully emptied into the grave ; an obser- vance which might be adopted in England very much to the comfort of the afflicted friends of the deceased. *■ During this process an old negro woman chaunted an Afri- can air, and the multitude joined in chorus. It was not in the strain of u hymn, or solemn requiem, but was loud and lively^ in unison >\ ith the other gaieties of the occasion. THE WEST INDIES. 451 * Many were laughing and sporting tlie whole time with the fishermen, who danced and gambolled during the ceremony upon the neighlM)uring graves. From the moment the coiKn was committed to the earth, nothing of order was maintained by the party. The attendants dispersed in various directions, retiring or remaining during the filling up of the grave, as in- clination seemed to lead. * When the whole of the earth was re})laced several of the women, who had staid to chaunt in merry song over poor Jenny's clay, took up a handful of the mould, and threw it down again upon the grave of their departed friend, as the finisliing of the ceremony, crying aloud " God bless you, Jen- ny! good-by! remember me to allJHends € other side of tlue 9ea, Jenny! Tell ""em me come soon! Good-by , Jenny, good- by ! Seejhr send me good to night, Jenny! Good-by, good night, Jenny, goodJjy!"^ All this was uttered in mirth and laughter, and accompanied with attitudes and gesticula- tions expressive of any thing but sorrow or sadness. * The faith of these poor ignorant slaves, regarding a happy transmigration after death, would seem calculated to lead them to the crime of suicide ; and, accordingly, this effect of their superstition is said not to have been unfrequcnt among them. A tale is told of a singular remedy having been practised agmnst this fatal expedient of the negro. Several individuals of a gang having hanged themselves to escape from a cruel master, and others being about to avoid his severities by simi- lar means, he prevented them, by the happy expedient of threatening to hang himself also, and to transmigrate with them, carrying the whip in his hand, into their own coimtry ; where he would punish them ten times more severely than he had hitherto done. The stratagem is said to have succeeded. Finding they could not, thus, escape from the tyrannic lash, they resolved, rather than receive disgracefid stri]ies among their African friends, to cojitimie their existence under all the iiai'dships of slavery. * Barbadoes, February. * We have made a ride al)out four miles into the coun- try» to dine with one of our professional brethren, Dr. Hindc, m !l ■ft 11'! IH' 4.52 PINCKARDS NOTES ON a man of high acquirements and sound knowledge. The doc- tor's estate is nituated upon much higher grounds than the im- mediate environs of Bridge Town ; the country rising towards the interior of the island, in elevated ranges of distinct table- land. * The land is cultivated in open field — hedges, walls, and all the usual fences seem to be unknown : nor does the eye discover any distinct separation of the different estates ; but it ranges uninterrupted over a wide-extended surface, richly spread with the various productions of a tropical soil, and pleasantly interspersed with tiie mansions of the whites, and the huts of the negroes. Cotton, pigeon peas, and Guinea corn, constitute the great produce of this part of the island. — Some fields of aloes and of plantains were also seen : but there appeared a degree of nakedness from the want of wood, of which there is not a sufficiency to give a general richness to the landscape, although alwut the great 6at'^ra-houses there are several fine groves of the cocoa-nut and the majestic raoun- tuin-cabbage trees. * It is common at the plantations to allot a small piece of ground, at a short distance from the house, to the use of the negroes, and this is called the negro-yard. Here the slaves are allowed to build themselves small huts to live in, which are commonly of very coarse construction, and are dark, close, and smoky ; but some of the negro-yards are neat, roomy, and picturesque. At these places it is usual for the slaves to plant fruits and vegetables, and to raise stock. Some of them keep a pig, son)e a goat, some Guinea fowls, ducks, chickens, pi- geons, or the like ; and at one of the huts at Spendlove, we saw a pig, a goat, a young kid, some pigeons, and some chic- kens, all the property of an individual slave. — This is mere indulgence, but it gratifies and amuses the negroes, and be- comes in various ways highly useful. The little garden, and their stock, not only aflbrd them occupation and amusement for their leisure moments, but create a certain degree of inter- est in their spot, and excite feelings of attachment towards the master, who both grants and protects the indulgence. The negro-yard, viewed from a short distance, forms an object of THE WEST INDIES. 45^ highly interesting and picturesque scenery ; — it comprizes all the little huts, intermixed with, and more or less concealed by the variety of shrubs and fruit trees, which kindly lend their shade; likewise the many small patches of garden ground around them, and the different spec-ics of stock, s()me appear- ing in pens, some tied by the log, or the nvjck, and some run- ning at large ; and if it be evening, you have also the crowd of negroes, male and female, us they chance to be seen, at rest, or moving in busy occupation, some passing from hut to hut, some dancing to their favourite music, some sitting at the door with the pipe in their mouths, and others smoking their loved segar under the broad leaf of the plantain. The picture is also further enlivened by the groups of little black children ; — some running and skipping about, some seated, playing be- fore the doors in Naturc'*s ebon dress, and some, unable to walk, attempting little pedestrian excursions upon their hands and feet. Perhaps within so small a space, few scenes could offer so much interest to a contemplative mind ; or to aid the pencil of a painter of the picturesque. * Independent of their own provisions, either raised or pur- chased, each negro has his weekly allowance issued to him, every Sunday, from the estate ; and hence they are at liberty to take the whole of their own private stock to market, and to procure whatever additional comforts they prefer with the mo- ney it produces; and perhaps it will seem strange to you when I tell you that the markets of the island depend almost wholly upon this mode of supply. They arc all held weekly, and upon the Sunday ; that being the day when the negroes are free from labour, and have leisure to attend.'' * In another excursion," says our author, ' we saw great numbers of mountain-cabbage trees, which were said to be of a peculiar kind, and different from all others in the island.—— This magnificent palm is untjuestionably the finest tree that grows. From words, or draw ings, you can only collect an im- perfect idea of it. To comprehend the fine symmetry, its grandeur, and majestic loftiness, it must be seen. Its trunk is very smooth, and almost regularly cylindrical, rising into a i I ?' 454 PINCKARD'S NOTJiS ON superb and stately pillar, resenihliiig a well-liewn coliiinn of stone. At the base its circumference is somewhat greater than at any other part, yet lessening so gradually u)nvards, as to preserve the most just and accurate proportion. Not a single branch, nor even the slightest twig, interrupts the general har- mony of the trunk, which often rises, in a correct perpendi- cular, to the height of from 60 to 100 feet, and then spreads its palmated foliage into a wide and beautifully radiated cir- cle. Branches it has none, but the iine expansive leaves, shoot- ing immediately irom the summit of the stately trunk, extend around it, ci-owning, and, as it were, protecting the massy co- lumn, in form of a full expanded umbrella. * It will perhaps occur to you that our noble English oak, with all its rude and crooked limbs, must be a more pictur- esque object. So it is, and so is likewise the wide-spreading silk-cotton : but the loftiness, the stately grandeur, the exact pn)portion, and the deep-shading folitige ol' tlie mountain-cab- bage tu*e unequalled, and, in their happy combination, crown this tree the king of the forest — the most exalted of the vege- table world. * When planted in avenues it forms a grand and imposing approach to a dwelling, conveying an air of greatness to the mansion it adorns. It grows free from decay to a very old age, hut cannot be converted to the useful purposes of timber. It is a tree of state, calculated to enrich and augment the mag- nificence of a palace : nor let it detract from its majestic quali- ties to know that, after all, it is but a cabbage tree ! Its loftiest summit is a spiral succulent shoot, tlie sides of which, by gi'adually and successively unfolding, form the fine wide-spreading foliage. Before this oj)ens to expand itself around, it is a congeries of young and tender leaves, and is often boiled and brought to table as a cabbage, of which it is the very best kind I ever remember to have tasted. It is also used, without boiling, by way of sallad, and is then eaten with cmI and vinegar; and so highly is it esteemed for these culinary purposes, that too often a very fine tree has been devoted to the axe, merely because no other means could be found of ob- taining from its towering summit this most excellent cabbage.* THE WEST INDIES. 455 Our author pays a just tribute of praise to the Barbadian gentlemen, who attended them during this excursion. * Ne- ver,' says he, * was hospitality evinced with more friendly urbanity. No attention was forgotten to render every thing comfortable and agreeable to us : no ciivc was omitted to pro- mote or forward our gratification. It seemed the object of all to offer us every possible accommodation, and to bring us ae able to persuade ourselves that our sense of disquietude was only a misplacetL humanity. * Barbadoes, February. ' We still remain without any accurate intelligence re- specting the great body of our convoy: and, having no tidings of the commander-in-chief, we continue in equal uncertainty when we may proceed to our origi.ial destination at St. Domin- go. All here is suspense and anxiety. The solicitude of the mercantile world is not less than tliat of the military. No packet is ar "ived ; the affairs of commerce are interrupted ; we have no nev s^ of Europe or the war, and all seems shut in ig- 11 ^>. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 4p .1 1.0 li I.I US u 2.0 1.8 1.25 1 U i.6 ^ 6" - ► HiotograDhic SdmcGS CorporatioD f\ ^ ,v .ss \\ [\ '^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14SS0 (716) S72-4S03 '4^ '9. 456 PINCKARD S NOTES ON iiorancc, or absorded in paintui uncertainty. Straggling ves- vsels of our disastrous fleet continue to arrive ; and from these we catcli with eagerness every report, but still without acquir- ing any thing satisfactory. Some separated one day; ^ome another; and some another: but with respect to the nctual state of the convoy all is still enveloped in doubt and incerti- tude. * Unhappily the finest season is passing away—and before the whole army can have arrived, and oe brought into action, the rainy period will be fast approaching ; but, as many of the men already here are in a sickly state, we hope the delay may prove beneficial to them, by affording them an opportunity of recovering from the ills of the voyage, and of their long con- finement on board, before they enter upon the fatigues of the campaign. * The captains of the Guineamen often reheve their ships'* company from the duty of the boat, by training some of their black cargo to the use of the oar. — Indeed so useful do many of the negroes become, during the passage, and the time they are detained on boai\l, that their assistance is of much service in working the vessel. We occasionally see the master of a slave ship rowed ashore by four of his naked Africans, who appear as dexterous in the management of the boat, as if they had been for years accustomed to it. ' Often we observe the captains parading the streets, accom- panied by parties of their prime slaves — apparently with the intention of exhibiting them to the eye of the public, in sound state and good condition. This contributes, at the same time, to the health and amusement of these poor beings, who seem delighted at feeling their feet on shore, and, in due obedience to their captain, dance and frolic as they go along, either in real, or in well dissembled contentment and happiness. ' We have an encampment of negroes formed near to Bridge Town, upon a spot called Constitution-hill. They are a fine body of men, who have been enlistfid from the revolted French islands, or brought away on the evacuation of them by our troops. They are active and expert, and are training into a formidable corps to assist in our intended expe- THE WEST INDIES. 457 -» ^m ice in to fey [he Ion ire ilit' jns. About sixteen hundred of them bear arms ; besides whom tliere are twelve hundred to be employed as pioneers. They have all the vivacity and levity of the French character about them ; and it, occasionally, affords us amusement to ob- serve the Barbadoes negroes regard them with evident amaze- ment, gaping witii wonder at their volatility and alertness. John Bull differs not more widely from a Parisian pctit-maitre than many of the Barbadoes slaves from the sable fops of this sprightly corps. * Among the novelties which meet the eye of an European upon his arrival at Barbadoes, or probably in any of the West Indian islands, is the practice of carrying the children across the hip, instead of seating them upon the arm. The lower class of women in Barbadoes have adopted this custom, from, the example of the negroes, among whom it seems to be the universal mode of nursing ; and, perhaps, it would admit of argument, whether this method be not preferable to the Eu- ropean custom of carrying them upon the arm. Seated upon the hip, the infant soon learns to cling, and in a great measure to support itself; but, placed upon the arni, it must always remain a helpless or dead weight upon the mother, being with- out the power of assisting itself, or reUeving its position. Fur- ther, it is so conveniently placed when upon the hip, that the mother can support it with much greater facility, for by only putting the arm behind it, the child can lie back, or rest and change its posture in various ways : thus the weight becomes less fatiguing to the mother, and perhaps less injurious to the infant ; for at this tender age the long bones of the thigh, not being firmly ossified, are liable to yield, and a degree of defor- mity may be induced, from their being made to bear the whole weight of the body, at long and frequent periods, upon so narrow a seat as the arm. * Trivial as this subject might appear i some, it is worthy the serious consideration of British mothers and nurses. A deformed negro is a very rare object, and this may probably be attributed, in a great measure, to the manner of nursing them in their infancy; for, besides the better mode of carrying them, they have the further advantage of being allowed to crawl about Vol. I. 3 M I i '1 11 M ilil' I -* 458 PINCKARD'S NOTES ON upon their hands and feet, in perfect freedom, unrestrained by ligatures, or tight garments. * Although I have observed the mode of carrying children upon the hip to be the common methotl of nursing among the slaves, yet, when they have to carry them to a great distance, they neithei' place them upon the hip, nor the arm, but upon the back ; and I have, frequently, been surprised to observe by what slight support they secure them in this situation. A mere pocket handkerchief tied carelessly round the mother, often forms all their seat and all their safety ! * A few evenings ago I had the afflicting opjxirtunity of wit- nessing a scene of cruelty, which strongly exemplified the ab- ject and wretchedly humiliating condition to which human beings are subjected in a Ufe of slavery. I happened to be waiting upon the quay for the Lord Sheffield's boat, in order to return on board, when two men, apparently white Creoles, came up, and seized a negro who was standing by me, accus- ing him of having run away from his master. The poor black assured them that he had no master, — that he belonged to Mrs. , that he was well known in the town, — and that they must certainly have mistaken his person; and, upon these grounds, urged the impropriety of their taking him to prison. But regardless of his remonstrances and of their own error, ^hey tied him with a heavy cord, fastened his hands, and forced him towards the place of confinement ! Curiosity led me to follow them. The poor man still pleaded his innocence, and the mistake they had committed, begging and praying to be allowed to refer them to his mistress, or to another family in the town, to identify his person. Heedless of his protestations and entreaties they still dragged him on, and firom his only expressing a reluctance at being thus unjustly hurried to a prison, one of these hardened wretches struck him a violent blow on the head, with a large stick, calling out to the other, in broad Barbadoes accent, " Daa-am him, cut him down."" * A little before they reached the prison they had to pass a door-way where there happened to be a strong light, by means of which one of these cruel instruments of the law o{ force in- stantly recognized the poor ill-treated slave, and finding thai THE WEST INDIES. 459 ^* they were actually giiilty of the mistdke which the negro had stated, he called out to his savage comrade, who had struck the helpless black upon the head, " Daa-ani him, I know the fellow, we must let him go,"" upm which they both with hor- rid imprecations, ordered him to stand witfwut stirring while they should untie him ; and, ujx)n his only moving his arm to expedite the loosening of the cord, they swore that if lie dared " to stir, or look savage," they would " cut him down," or put him " directly into prison."" Such was the compensation dealt him for the unjust and cruel treatment he had already received. The wretches not only dragged the poor unoffend- ing slave to a prison, in defiance of his solemn assurances of their having mistaken his person, and without allowing him an appeal to any one who knew him, but, because he ventured to say that they were committing an error, had the inhumanity to strike him with a force sufficient to have fractured his skull, and to threaten him with the further severity of death, or a dim- geon, should he dare to express only a hok of displeasure. * What must have been the feelings of this injured man, who, after being abused and mal-treated, was further put in fear o? his life, should he only permit nature to assume her seat on his brow, — should tlie cruelty, pain, and injustice he had suffered, only cause a mark of disapprobation to appear upon his countenance ? But Nature, however proscribed, was not to be restrained by such command ? While the power of memory remains to me I can never — never forget the indig- nant, but hopeless expression of injury which overspread the features of this poor slave, as he retired ! — He felt aggrieved, and was conscious that he had no remedy, — no appeal ! * Barbadoes, March 15. * I NOW take up my pen to you after making a visit to the senate house, and being present at a sitting of the general assembly of the island. The proceedings were conducted ac- cording to the routine of the house of commons, which the assembly regards as its model. The representatives Uke ours 9X'e returned from the provinces, two, not indeed from each 'A • '*, il ■■: M 460 PINCKARD'S NOTES ON county, but from each parish ; and, there being 11 parishes in the island, the assembly consequently consists of 22 mem- bers. * As in our house so in theirs, the person who presides is denominated — " the speaker*" — the liearer had perhaps been more correct, as lie happens to be the only person who is pre- cluded from speaking in the debate, and is appointed for the express purpose of hearing all others, who through him ad- dress their arguments to the house. ' Among the members we recognized several of the gentle- men whom we had seen in our excursion into the country. It did not happen to be a sitting of great interest to strangers, there being but little before the house foi* discussion, and con- sequently few debates. Reading and passing a militia act, and some other bills, constituted nearly the whole business of the meeting. One part of the proceedings, however, we thought to be strictly in the order of the day. It was exces- sively warm, and we were sadly parching with thirst, when two persons suddenly appeared with a large bowl, and a two quart glass filled with punch and sangaree. These were pre- sented to " Mr. Speaker,'' who, after dipping deep into the bowl, passed it among the members: nor was the audience tbrgotton, for we were most gratefully taught that the hospi- tality, so universal in the island, lies even in the senate. The glass was handed up to us, and we found that it was correctly in order for strangers to join in this part of the debate. It came at a moment peculiarly opportune, and we drank deeply and cordially to our friends, and the house of assi^mbly. * What hurry, confusion, and solicitude ! a packet has at length arrived ! From the 9th of December to the 16th of March have we been separated from you without hearing one word of our friends, or scarcely of our country. How shall I convey to you any just idea of the scene this day has produced by the impatient multitude crowding in anxious eagerness to obtain letters, to see the papers, and to hear the news ! * Early in the morning a signal appeared at the fort, im- plying that a vessel was in sight. Soon afterwards, this was THE WEST INDIES. 461 lowered down, and the packet signal hoisted in its place; wlien instead of the pleasing expectation of seeing a vessel of our fleet, and learning news of the coii^'oy, all were on tiptoe in the s;:ll more lively hope of hearing news, not only of our un- fortunate armada, but of Europe, of England, and our friends ! Concerning the fleet we had grown quite weary of conjecture, and now saw it probable that we might obtain more accurate intelligence respecting it, by way of England, than by any ship which had been separated from it upon the pas- sage. ' On the packet making the harbour it caused a crowd not unlike what you may have seen at a sailing or rowing match of boats upon the Thames. Each wishing to be first, and all being aiixioiii to learn the news, the vessel was beset on every quarter bttore she could come to anchor, and the whole bay became one animated scene of crowded ships and moving boats. Many who could not go to the packet as she entered the har- bour, repaired on shore to be ready there to meet the news. The people of the town also thronged the l)each in anxious multitudes. All was busy expectation. Impatience scarcely allowed the bags to reach the office : every avenue to which was so closely blockaded that the house was quite in a state of siege, and the post-master and his mansion in danger of being taken by storm. * It was about 11 o''clock when the inspector-general, Dr. Master, and myself, followed the common impulse, went to inquire for our letters and papers ; but we could only advance within sight of the post-oflice walls, — to approach the door was utterly impossible. Finding the crowd to be still so deep, we rambled about the town, and made calls upon various persons in order to glean the news. * Seeing no prospect of ascertaining whether we had any letters, we returned from the hot and crowded town to take our dinners quietly on board, and to enjoy the high feast of reading the papers, which our obliging and attentive friend, Mr. Hinde, had kindly allowed us to put into our pockets. You will believe that this formed a most exquisite dessert after |C n im PINCKARD^S NOTES 0\ our meal, and was of more grateful flavour than all the fruits and sw^Hs of a tropical soil. * From the papers it is ascertained that the great Ixnly of the convoy, with our commander-in-chief and the admiral, arc returned to St. Helen's, after continuing seven tedious weeks at sea, bcatirg against contrary winds and destructi\'e storms, and that many of the ships which had separated had previously put back to Cork, Kinsale, Plymouth, and various other ports. This is very distressing and vexatious news, for it robs us of the pleasing hope with which we had daily looked out for our comrades, and tell us tliat all still remains — to be done again ! Twice has this great expedition put to sea, and dur- ing many months has it been daily expected to arrive : yet after a long and vivid suspense do we now learn that it is still in an English harbour, only preparing to sail ! * Barbadoes, March 17. ' How eventful arc the hours which now pass l)efore us ! The sons of St. Patrick have not felt themselves more blessed, nor hailed in more joyous greetings this hallowed day than the anxious multitude at Barbadoes. It was only yester- day that I took up my pen to announce to you a glad arrival, and I have now to mention one still more happy. Before breakfast this morning a signal appeared at the fort, implying tliat a ship of war was in sight ; and about eight o'clock a proud frigate, with sails swelling to the breeze, cut her liquid prill silently into the bay, and dropped her anchor in the midst of the fleet. A general feeling of joy instantly spread through, out the harbour. It was the Arethusa, with sir Ralph Aber- cromby, and the oflicers of his staff on board. A signal was made from the agent, and all the ships in the bay immediately manned their yards and rigging to hail and to welcome, hi loud salutation, our long expected commander-in-chief. Three heart-felt cheers were rapturously shouted from every vessel, and as cordially echoed by the Arethusa's company. * The scene thus introduced was novel and peculiar. It was also highly interesting. The yards, the tops, the masts THE WEST INDIES. 463 and rigging of all the vessels being covered with men, they resembled clusters of bees, as they hang about the hive at the moment previous to swarming. Each ship was indeed a hive of men, but it was without drones, for all were equally- indu8> trions in greeting the arrival of the " king bee"" among tliem. ' Crowded with yards and masts the liarbour resembled a thick forest — the leaves of which \vere men. not rustling in the wind, but set in motion by the more animating breeze of joy and gratulation Loud shouts of welcome resounded throughout the bay, and when the general went off in the boat towards the landing place, each ship repeated three cheers as he passed — the multitude upon the beach again shouting his welcome as he stepped on shore. At reaching the government house at Pilgrim he was received with a salute of 21 guns. The same number was then repeated from the fort, which we liad remarked did not fire any salute when the fi-igate entered the harbour. * All is now life and activity. An impulsive sensation vibrates throughout the bay. Every breast throbs with ardour, and, inspired by the presence of the commander-in-chief, every one looks forward to a successful campaign. No one imagines that fate has destined him to fall ; but each anticipates the joyous moment, when he shall return to relate histories of battles won, and islands conquered, to his friends in peaceful England.—— Yet, alas ! to how few is it allotted again to visit either Eng- land or their friends ! But to such reflections let me be silent : to speak them were unmilitary ! ' In his third attempt to reach the islands the commander- in-chief has been very successful ; the Arethusa having sailed only on the 14th of Februaiy, and consequently made the voyage in thirty days. The general takes up his abode at a large building a little way out of the town, called the King^s house, which is to be made Jhe head-quarters, during the as. seihbling of the troops, and the continuance of the army at Barbadoes. * We find that the Cork fleet has unquestionably been for several weeks at sea, and may be daily expected; the Arethusa liaving spoken several of the ships of that convoy upon hqr 1 .f 11 ' ! li 464 PINCKARD'S NOTES ON passage. At the time the Arcthusa came into the bay two other ships appeared in sight : they are since arrived, and prove to be the General Cuyler merchantman, of our division, (long supposed to be lost), and the Clarendon transport of the Cork division : — their arrival, and the reported approach of the Cork fleet, add to the auspicious events of St Patrick's day. ' The safety of the General Cuyler spread consolation among us, and very much augmented the great and general joy dif- fused by the arrival of the commander-in-chief: it had obtained universal belief that this ship was lost at sea, or at best taken by the enemy. She had sailed with us on the 9th of Decem- ber, and was the last ship we had spoken in the European seas, which was on the 4th of January ; when only three days after we had hailed her, she sprung a leak, and during twenty suc- ceeding days, was only kept from sinking by the persevering toil and exertions of the &hip''s company and the passengers, all of whom took their regular watch at the pumps, for six or eight hours each day. With great difHculty she was kept afloat : daily their peril increased, and for nearly three weeks they had only the melancholy prospect of going to the bottom, before they could possibly make any port. Almost exhausted with fatigue and apprehension, the hope of being saved had nearly abandoned them, when fortunately they made one of ihe Canary islands. * The Dutch are said to have a mode of punishment some- what resembling this very dangerous and afllicting situation, although infinitely removed from it, on account of the person who is exposed to it knowing a certain means of saving him- self, provided he has enough of industry to continue his exer- tions. The prisoner is confined in a room, into which water is made constantly to flow, so increasing in depth that he must inevitably be drowned if he is idle : but if he will be indus- trious and persevere at the pump, he knows that a certain proportion of labour will keep down the water and preserve his life. Surely none but the amphibious and toiling Hollan- ders could have invented such a punishment — such an aquatic remedy ! although it must be allowed to be a most excellent one against idleness.^ THE WEST INDIES. 465 Single ships belonging to the Cork convoy continued to ar- rive, but no tidingK of the fleet could be obtained, only that the greater part had put back into Cork harbour. On the 1st of April the signal of alarm was hoisted at the battery, but as the strangers approached it was discovered that they were nei- ther foes nor Portsmouth friends. * On this occasion,' says our author, * as on many, we were both pleased and surprised to o])serve the acuteness of our men of the ocean in discovering the nature and extent of a distant fleet at sea. Before we could well distinguish a ship from a brig, our tars from the cut of the sails proclaimed it an English convoy, but not that of ad- miral Cornwallis. From the* mode of setting the canvas, from the form of the ship, the figure of the masts, or some slight circumstance attaching to diflerent vessels, but totally imper- ceptible to us, they hod no hesitation in declaring, while yet at a great distance, that instead of the fleet from Spithead, it was our long-wished for convoy from Cork. ' To us this was even better and still more joyful news, and we had soon the gratification of finding it correct. The whole fleet is now at anchor in the bay, and has brought to us a large body of troops destined for St. Domingo, under the com- mand of general Whyte. This being peculiarly our division of the expedition, we had twofold pleasure in gi-eeting its ar- rival. In our gladness to hail it, we climbed the shrouds up to the maki-top — and there stood to view its entrance into the bay. * Such a scene must have been highly interesting, even had it bem wholly independent of the intimate connection we had with it : the day was fine — the breeze soft and mild, and the surface of the wator gently moving. The picture was rich and varied: comprehending, under a bird's-eye-view, the town, and neighbouring plantations — the bay crowded with shipping — a great extent of the fine country around — and the wide 0(jean, together with the numerous vessels of our desired con- voy dropping mih full sails into the h^bour. * I'his fleetj which had been so often reported at sea, even so long since as before we left England, and which did once sul and return to harbour, finally took its depaiture from Cove Vol. I. 3 N H ' \i 4 t i' I It i I i: I; 1i 466 PINCKARD'S NOTES ON on the 25th of Fobrunry : hence it may, at last, be considered to Imve mmle a very favourable passage, having been precisely five weeks at sea. * Bnrhadocft^ April. * IxDOLExrK is consitlerctl to bo tl»e ficneral effect of excessive heat of climate ; but the first effect of the heat seems to be that of stimulating the rigid nortiiern fibre into increased activity — and Oeole inertness tbllows only as the result of con- tinued residence. * We have, for some days past, been closely watching one of our sailors — a Dutchman. He is recently froin Holland, and in manners and appearance un vra'i Battivc. On the pas- sage he was a dull, heavy, slow, and plodding Dutchman — frigid and inanimate as the most icy boor of his aquatic nation. His movements were a pretty accurate representation of the crawling sloth, and unvaried sedatcness of his visage no less emblematical of his native home. * Having particularly noticed him throughout the voyage, we feel some surprize in now witnessing, as it were, a complete revolution of his nature and habits. The rays of a tropical sun seem to have given play to his muscles, set free all the circulating juices of his frame, and unfrozen the icy coldness of his soul. The change we obser\'e in him is indeed greater than you can imagine : roused from the torpor of unheeding sameness, by the all-vivifying power of tropical warmth, the cold cloud of indifference is dissipated from his brow — and the Batavian gluten of his frame sublimed into volatile spirits. He is grown cheerful and gay ; wears a smile of mirth upon his countenance, and moves with an agility and alertness, beyond all that could have been hoped in a Dutchman. He now skips merrily about the ship ; pulls his oar with glee in the boat ; cQid on all occasions appears animated and lively; vying in spirits and activity with the sprightliest tar of the ship. < Having from time to time detailed to you, in all of desul- tory remark, the whole chain of circumstances that have passed under my eye, you will not perhaps deem it premature, should I now offer you a few general observations concerning the is- land of Bai'badoes. lanl tliel at coni pov of consulcfetf fi precisely tcs, April. w\ effect of lieat sceniH • increased Lilt of con- X'hing one I Holland, n the pas- :chnian — tic nation. 3n of the ge no lesa D voya'jc, complete I tropical e all the coldness 1 greater iheeding nth, the -and the rits. He jpon his beyond v,y skips e boat; ying in f desu.l. ) passed should the is- THE WEST INDIES. 467 * From the situation of the AVcst India islands in the At- lantic ocean, extending in the form of a seniicircie, nearly from the coast of Florida to the rivir Oronoko, it miirht seem that, at some remote |>eriod, tliey hail been detached I'rom the great continent of America, eithe oy the gradual and })rogrcssivc jwwer of tlie ocean, o by some great and sudden convulsion of nature. But irom their being of very irregular and moun- tainous surface, while the land of the proximate shore is pecu- liarly low and flat, to a distance of many miles from the coast, it would appear that the islands and the main land owned a distinct 'and very different origin. The craggy shores, and rugged broken figure of the islands, bespeak the convulsive throes of a sudden birth ; while the smooth and muddy sur- face of the opposite coast indicates a less disturbed and slower beginning. Probably the latter has been formed from the gradual deposit of a fecident ocean—the former from the vehe- ment vomitings of volcanic eruption. * Barbadoes is the most windward of the West India islands; and is in that division of them known by the appellation of Caribbee islands — a name they have obtained from one of the nations of Indians, who formerly inhabited them. * It is about 21 miles in length, by 14 in breadth; lying in latitude 13 deg. north, longitude 59 deg. west. The English have occupied it neai'ly two centuries, having taken possession of it in the reign of James I. At the time of being settled by our countrymen it was covered with wood, and had no appear- ance of having been before occupied by man ; but it now ap- pears under a very diflerent aspect, — the destructive axe having converted its deep and heavy forests into even characteristic nakedness. * It is considered as an old island, and, from having been long in cultivation, is said to be much exhausted and wearing to decay. Those concerned in the culture of more recent and now more prolific colonies, seem to compassionate Barbadoes as the venerable and decrepit parent of the race ; while its in- habitants pride themselves upon its antiquity, and, like the feudal lords of still more ancient states, assume a consequence, I might almost say claim hereditary rank and privilege from . i 5:^ ij >; t 468 PINCKARD'S NOTES ON priority of establishment. This sense of distinction is strongly manifested in the sentiment conveyed by the vulgar expression so common in the island—." neither Carib, nor Creole, but true Barbadian,"^ and which is participated even by the slaves, who proudly arrogate a superiority above the negroes of the other islands I Ask one of them if he was imported, or is a Creole, and he immediately replies — " Afr neder Chraby nor Creole^ Massa ! — me troo Barbadian bom ."* * Perhaps the late decUne of this island may be still less the effect of exhaustion of the soil, than of the extensive emigra- tions, and the diversion of commerce consequent on the culti- vation of new islands and colonies. In the early period of its culture Barlmdoes yielded a produce, and gave rise to an ex- tent of commerce, not known in any other island, and its po- pulation increased to a degree perhaps unprecedented in any part of the globe. Within the first fifty years the trade of the island had become sufficient to employ 400 sail of shipping ; and the number of inhabitants amounted to no less than 100,000, being upwards of 500 to every square miles. * At this day the colonies of Guiana are a continual drain upon the population of Barbadoes. But notwithstanding its decUne from what it once was, it is still the most populous and one of the most important of our West India possessions. From situation, and from its fine bay for shipping, even inde- pendent of its produce, it must ever be valuable to us, and indeed may be considered as the key to the West Indies. Some of the Creoles of the island, not barely sensible of this, commit the excess of attaching to it a degree of importance be- yond even England itself. — " What tcould poor England do^ say they, " "were Barbadoes tojbrsalce her ?"" This adage you will l)elieve expresses only the veneration of the illiterate ; but you will admit that it arises from a very natund feeling ; for those who have seen but one spot readily fancy that to be of the first importance ! And there are multitudes in Barbadoes who never suav any other soil, and who, no doubt, from the same laudable sentiment which we so honour in Britons, re* gard their native isle a& pre-eminent above all others. » THE WEST INDIES. 4G9 * If in point of produce Burbadocs now yields to other set- slements — if its thicic wockIs have fallen before the rueful axt* — and if its mountains are less aspiring than the towering sum- mits of some of the neighbouring islands ; still its trade and proiluce continue to be important ; its population great ; and the picturesque scenery of its surface perhaps unrivalled. Nor are these its only advantages ; for, in consequence of being more cleared and' 'more generally cultivated than the other is> lands, its temperature is more equable, and its air more salu- brious. Damp woods do not interrupt, nor stagnant morasses empoison the breeze. Every part is exposed to the full per- flation of the trade-wind; by the coolness and salubrity of which, this is rendered the most healthful of the islands ; in- somuch that it is common, in sickness, to make a voyage from the other colonies to Barbadoes, as the M ontjielier of the West Indies. Being situated to windward of the other islands, it receives the uninterrupted breeze, brought to it in all its purity immediately from a wide extent of ocean, unimpreg- nated by the septic exhalations of stagnant waters, or polluted soils. — Its temperature has been far less inconvenient than we .had expected. We have felt but little oppression from heat ; and have continued our habits of exercise without interruption. In the harbour, and placed in the shade, the thermometer has seldom been higher than 84, and at no time has exceeded 86 degrees. * Yet as the island is in its exemption from excessive heat, from noxious maismata, and from great and general sickness, it has its peculiar ills: being visited with an endemial affliction, so much its own as to have obtained the appellation of the Bar- badoes disease. It appears in form of the elephantiasis, or what is here termed the " glandular disease,"" — and is a most un- sightly and distressful malady. * Bridge Town is the capital of the island, and is situated on the S. W. bank of Carlisle bay, which is one of the finest harbours for shipping in the West Indies ; but it is not consi- dered to be safe during the hurricane season. It receives its name from the circumstance of a royal grant of the island hav- ing formerly been made to the carl of Carlisle. The other towns I ■-: , I a I I 470 PINCKARD'S NOTES ON >.'; are Speights Town, Austin Town, and Hole Town, all of which are much ini'erior to Bridge Town. * The seasons here are not divided into winter and summer, but into wet and dry : yet they are by no means what many from these terms would believe, who might imagine that half the year is drowned with incessant rain, and the other half parched with constant drought. Such a construction of the terms wet season, and dri/ season, though not unfrequent, is far from correct, and leads to a very inaccurate idea of the climate ; for, although it has been the dry season, during the whole time we have been at Barbadoes, we have scarcely had two successive days without refreshing rain; although the showers are not so heavy at this period as at that of their greater frequency, termed the wet season, when the torrent which falls might often convey the idea of a sudden rupture of the clouds, letting forth their waters in streams to the earth. * The sudden evaporation which succeeds to rain in these climates creates a most agreeable and refreshing coolness. The extreme ardour of the sun's rays is also counteracted by the the ever-grateful breeze, which sets in from the sea about eight or nine oVlock in the morning, and continues throughout the day, ceasing only as the sun forsakes us at evening ; when wc are again defended from oppressive langour by a breeze spring- ing up from the land. This sets in as the sea-breeze subsides, and diverging, as it were fi'om a central point, is felt on all quarters of the island. * April 8. * The uniform returns of day and night in this climate appear to induce a regularity of habit in the hours of rising, and going to rest. It is conmion to leave the pillow at six in the morning, and few persons remain out of bed after eleven at night. The coolest and most pleasant part of the day is from six to about half-past seven o'clock in the moniing: about eight an oppressive closeness is often exjierienced, arising from the decUne of the land breeze, before that from the sea has become sufficiently strong to diffuse its influence. A similar period likewise occurs at evening, between the abatement of the sea br Some day scarcely p oppressivi < Resp( all counti themselvc voted to majority Were it train of immense shocked magnitu been de island ft degree < to exces human 'Th< sures o: they mi our Lo 'Th late, w seldom does, 1 They i madei from 1 ness, i foreno punch usuali dinne como] 'A indul THE WEST INDIES, 471 ill of mer, iiany haif half the t, is f the the had the eater falls >uds, we the sea breeze and the setting in of the breeze from the land. Some days the closeness of these hours is so light, as to be scarcely perceptible, but commonly tbey are by far the most oppressive of the twenty-four. * Respecting the mode of living it may be remarked that in all countries said to be civilized, and among all people calling themselves cultivated, too much of time and attention are de- voted to the business of eating and drinking. Perhaps the majority of diseases in social life may be traced to this source. Were it possible to convey in a single sentence the frightful train of ills, the melancholy interruptions of health, and the immense consumption of time thus produced, men would be shocked to read it ! They v/ould be terrified to behold the magnitude of an abuse, to which, unheeding, they had so long been devoted. This remark but too correctly applies to the island from whence I am addressing you, and where, from the degree of indolence induced by tropical heat, the ingesta taken to excess may be expected in a peculiar degree to oppress the human frame. ' The people of Barbadoes are much addicted to the plea- sures of the table. We have often thought that, in eating, they might put to the blush even the turtle countenances of our London fat citizens. ' The breakfast usually consists of tea and coffee, or choco- late, with eggs, ham, tongue, or other cold meat. Bread is seldom used, but substitutes are found in roasted yams or ed- does, both of which a good deal resemble roasted potatoes. They are used hot, and eaten with butter, which is sometimes made in the country, but more frequently barrelled and brought from Ireland; that made in the island being of cream-like soft- ness, and not always of good flavour. In the course of the forenoon are used fruits, or sandwiches, with free libations of punch and sangaree. Innnediately preceding dinner, which is usually at an early hour, are taken punch and mandram. The dinner, for the most part, is profuse, and many hours are commonly passed at table in full and busy occupation. ' Afler a more than plentiful consumption of food, a free indulgence in fruit, and a bounteous supply of wine and other J 472 PINCKARD^S NOIES ON good' liquors, to crown the repast, the appetite and thrist are further proToked by a dish of sprats, or other broiled fish, and 9, large bowl of milk and punch. Tea and coffee are next served — and lastly conies the supper, which forms no trifling W.eaL Afler this the bottle, the glass, and the punch bowl know no rest, until the silent hour when Morpheus, with rival powers, dethrones the Bacchanalian god. ' From the nature of the climate we had expected to hsxe found the inhabitants men of meagre figure, half dissolved in lierspiration, and exhausted almost to shadows ; nor, indeed, ace, such figures rare, but they are to b^ found mostly among ^e dierks, the book-keepers, and those orders of white people below the managers — ^those who are employed in active and busy occupation, and have but Uttle time to devote to indo- dolence and Uie luxuries of the table. Among the merchants sad planters are many of as fat and portly figure as well-fed aldenn^D ; to whom, indeed, they are scarcely second in Epi- Qutreaa devotion. * We observe that condiments are used very generally, and in great quantity. Acting as stimulants they appear to have the effect of causing ihe relaxed and enfeebled stomach to re- iseiire and to digest mors than it would, otherwise, require-— more indeed than it would, otherwise, take. The various spddes of ted pepper, known in England under the common t