^, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^^ 1.0 1.1 11-25 III 1.4 m 1.6 ■ 2.2 6" /] f c Sciences Corporation 23 WtST MAIN STRUT WFBSTER.N.Y. 14580 (716)872-4503 i\ iV ^ <^ ^^^^ h CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques <> Tachnical and Bibliographic Notas/Notat tachniquas at bibliographiquas Tha instituta has attamptad to obtain tha baat original copy avaiiabia for filming. Faaturaa of this copy which may ba bibliographically uniqua, which may altar any of tha imagaa in tha raproduction, or which may aignificantly changa tha usual mathod of filming, ara chackad balow. □ Cofourad covars/ Couvartura da coulaur r~n Covars damagad/ D D D D D Couvartura andommagia Covars rastorad and/or laminatad/ Couvartura rastauria at/ou paliiculAa □ Covar titia missing/ La titra da couvartura manqua □ Colourad maps/ Cartas gAographiquas an coulaur Colourad init (i.a. othar than blua or black)/ Encra da coulaur (i.a. autra qua blaua ou noira) □ Colourad platas and/or illustrations/ Planchas at/ou illustrations an coulaur □ Bound with othar matarial/ RallA avac d'autras documants Tight binding may causa shadows or distortion along intarior margin/ La reliura sarr^e paut oausar da I'ombre ou da la distortion la long da la marga intiriaura diank laavas addad during rastoratlon may appaar within tha taxt. Whanavar possibia, thasa hava baan omittad from filming/ II sa paut qua cartainas pagas blanchas ajoutias lors d'una rastauration apparaissant dans la taxta, mala, lorsqua cala Atait possibia, cas pagas n'ont pas «t4 film«aa. Additional commants:/ Commantairas suppltmantairas; The to t» L'Instltut a microfilm6 la maiilaur axamplaire qu'il lui a 4t6 possible da sa procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-Atre uniques du point de vue bibllographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la mAthode normale de filmage sont indiquis ci-dessous. r~n Coloured pages/ D Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommag^as Pagas restored and/oi Pages restaurdas et/ou peiliculies Pages discoloured, stained or foxei Pages dicolories, tachetdes ou piqudes Pages detached/ Pagas ddtachdes |~~| Pages damaged/ I I Pages restored and/or lam.nated/ r~^ Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ I I Pages detached/ The posi of tl filmi Orig begl the sion othc first sion or il .y| Showthrough/ Transparence □ Quality of print varies/ Qualiti indgaie de t'impression □ Includes supplementary material/ Comprend du materiel suppiimentaire I I Only edition available/ The shai TINI whi( IVIaF diff< entii begj righ raqi mat Seule Edition disponible Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., hava been refiimed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiellement obsuurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure. etc., ont M filmies A nouveau de fa^on d obtenir la meilleure image possible. This item is filmed at tha reduction ratio checked below/ Ca document est film* au taux da rMuction indiqu* ci-dassous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X y 12X 16X aox a4x 28X 32X lire details jes du modifier jer une filmage The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: Nationai Library of Canada The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in iceeping with the filming contract specifications. L'exemplaire film4 fut reprodult grftce d la g6n6rositA de: BibliothAque nationale du Canada Las images suivantes ont it6 reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettet6 de l'exemplaire film6, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. ^68 Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the bacic cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprim6e sont filmte en commen^ant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la dernlAre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, selon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont film6s en commenpant par la premiAre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la derniire page qui comporte une telle empreinte. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol — ^- (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Un des symboles suivants appuraitra sur la dernlAre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols — ► signifie "A SUiVRE", le symbols V signifie "FIN". re Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmte A des taux de reduction diff6rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reprodult en un seul cliche, il est film<^ & partir de i'angle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de iiaut en bas. en prenant le nombre d'images ntcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants iiiustrent la mAthode. y errata id to nt le palure. i9on A n 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 M^a' ^ Wf. VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD: WITH A HISTORY OF THX OREGON MISSION: AND ROTXS or JEVERAL YEARS RESIDENCE ON THE PLAINS, • BORDERINO THE PACIFIC OCEAN: * ; COMPRISINQ AN ACCOUNT OF UTTJCRESTINQ ADVENTURES AMONG THE INDIANS • WEST OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS^ « ^ TO WHICH U APPENDED A FULL DESCRIPTION OF OREGON TERRITORY, ITS GEOGRAPHY, HISTORY, AND ftEUGlON ; J* DKSIGNKD FOR THE BENEFIT OF EMIGRANTS TO THAT RISING COUNTRY. BY REV. GUSTAVUS HINES, LATI MISSIONARY OF THE METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH, TO ORBOOM, BUFFALO : GEORGE H DERBY AND CO. 1850. \ ^ \ 1 i C/ •* ^i f Entered according to Acl of Congress, in the year 1850, by GUSTAVUS HINES, In the Clerk's Office for the Northern District of New York. # W ^. *- * * ^ «k- :}-'j^ ?^>i|-^/ JEWETT, THOMAS & CO., 8TRREOTYPBRS AND PRINTERS, BUFFALO, M. Y. li PREFACE. It this volume does not commend itself to the favorable consideration!) \( the reading public, it will not be owing to any deficiency of material the possession of the author, to enable him to furnish a most interesting ind instructive work. Though his opportunities for the acquirement of ^l)at kind of knowledge resulting from observation, and necessary to qualify Dne to instruct and entertain mankind, during seven years of constant journeyings in various parts of the world, both by sea and land, have been srhaps greater than usually falls to the lot of even authors of books of gravel, yet, conscious of his want of the requisite qualifications to array lis work in that fascinating drapery necessary to charm the reader at once |nto an unqualified approval, the author casts himself upon the public rith all due deference. The principal apology necessary to offer for the publication of this work, a desire to connect with entertainment tho promotion of a more extensive md particular knowledge of those interesting portions of the world where it has been the privilege of the author to travel, and make his observations. While the world is literally teeming with fictitious publications, here is (presented a volume of facts, for the most of which the author is alone [responsible ; and in the absenc* of the tinsel adorning of a glowing and [high-sounding style, the truthfulness of what is narrated is the principal [merit to which the work is entitled. The " History of the Oregon Mission, '* to which the first chapter of jthe work is devoted, has been drawn from the most reliable sources, and, principally from the short notes of the late Rev. Jason Lee, and the Journal of the late Cyrus Shepherd, the first missionary teacher in I Oregon. This part, the author flatters himself, will supply the Christian public I with a needful desideratum, with respect to the true character of that I important Mission, and of the courageous and self-denying men who were the first to carry the Gospel across the Rocky Mountains, and to proclaim it along the shores of the Pai ific Ocean. The Journal, commencing with the departure of the Missionaries in the Ship Lausanne in the fall of 1839, will introduce the reader to all ^-■■ w IV PREFACE. that ia interesting relating to the largest expedition of the kind that ever sailed from an American port. It will acquaint him with '* Life on the Ocean Wave," and the different interesting phenomena of the great deep. It will introduce to him the people of other countries, and give him information with respect to many of their customs. It will present him with a glimpse of oriental scenery, and occasionally unfold the beautieti und Bublimitiee of the mountain landscape. It will conduct him through perils by sea and perils by land, and perils among the most savage, de- graded and treacherous of the human race. The Atlantic, the Pacific, and the Indian Oceans ; Brazil, Chili, the Sandwich Islands, Oregon, China, the Spanish Islands, and even Africa herself, have all been laid under contribution to enrich the Journal ; and from these different fields of observation have been collected facts, circum- stances, and incidents of history, which cannot fail to enlist the attention and excite the interest of the reader, and to induce him to pnrsue the narrative, until, with the author, he shall have circumnavigated the globe. The last few Chapters of the book are devoted exclusively to the Geography and History of the Oregon Territory. From a residence of several years in Oregon, connected with the fact that he made it a leading object to become informed from personal observation, not only with the geography of the country, with its productions ; the soil, climate, seasons, mountains, valleys, prairies, forests, rivers, &,c. ; but also witli every circumstance of importance which has ever transpired in connection with either the civil, political or religious interests of the country, the author believes himself to be qualified to present the inquiring public with more correct information regarding that portion of the world, than has hitherto been furnished from any source. For some of the facts connected with the History of Oregon, the author would acknowledge his indebtedness to the able and interesting Memoirs of Mr. Greenhow, the recent translator and librarian of the department of State, at Washington. , . , With these remarks, conscious of the uprightness of his intentions, the author would now place his offering upon the public altar ; counting no other favor in its behalf than that to which the merit of his performance is justly entitled. » kind that ever h " Life on the ' the great deep, and give him i^ill present him old the beautieH ct him through lost savage, de- razil. Chili, the nd even Africa e Journal ; and 1 facts, circum- Bt the attention to pnrsue the jaled the globe, lusively to the a residence of ade it a leading t only with the imate, seasons, so witli every ounectiou with ry, the author )lic with more in has hitherto ounected with ndebtedness to sent translator intentions, the counting no performance is INDEX. 1 • BistantMiaaionanes— arrival.... 24 Alarming Phenomena 51 idveniures at Valparaido. 70 Lflray at Sea 75 ^niuvernary of landing at Oahu 81 [8turia,Biie of . .. 89 Lrrival at Mission ...... 92 Arrival at " La Butte," 127 Lflecting History 186 Lrrival at Maui ....201 Lrrival at Hong Kong .........262 lrrival at New York .....315 latoria 370 Another tragedy at Fort Stikier .......994 Ishley's Expedition 407 irip May Dacre 11 lulllroga and Snakes 97 Iridge River 98 laker's Bay 199 labcock, Dr. J. L 202 lermuda islands . 313 llowing up the " Tonquin," 371 ■L, :|ralapoa Chief dhot 25 Centennary of Methodism >...'. 46 'i^hnsimas at Sea .......... 63 )ape Horn, doubling 64 Columbia River, crossing the Bar 86 /henook Indians , 88 /oluinbia River, Journey on ... .... 91 pooper — the Indian half-breed 126 " his remarkable adventures. ..126 pornelius Rogers 137 Jharles Roe 139 pauses of Panic .. 143 [Complaint of the Indians .....147 ?ape Horn, Oregon 153 !)a8cade Range of Mountains 155 Bhangefl in Hawaiian Oovernmeat 211 !!hurehesat Sandwich Islands 214 7atchmg a Porpoise ....249 '..'hinese Heathen Temple at Macao 279 Canton, city of 282 !!ape of Good Hope ..304 !)ape Town . ........306 !3limate of Oregon 333 [Captain James Cook ... . 364 !7aptain Vancouver ..—..—. ...359 IJaptain Carver ... ..366 ^Itirk, Lewis and Williams 366 !!aptain Bonneville ....410 ^Constitution of Oregon ....426 )iBtillery abandoned 18 eath of Mrs. Maria Ann Lee 31 )eparture fromHonoIohu 85 >eparture from Umpqua ..107 )isa8t«r at the Umpqua ...115 )eath of Esquire Crocker, Cornelius Rogers, wife and daughter 136 Dorio, Baptiste 165 Departure from Oregon 193 Description of Hong Kong 266 Desperate Affray 435 Elk Mountain 118 Estate of Mr. Rogers settled 140 Excitement continued 145 Election of Chieftain 183 Fort Walla Walla 11 First evcnin" on board ship 39 First Sabbath at soa 44 French man-of-war, Artimese 83 Frenchman's wife 101 Frenchman's story ....109 Flood at Champoeg 141 Feathercep, the Kay use Chief 166 Fin-back Whale 197 Fire at Honolohu 204 First arrival of Missionaries at the Sandwich islands 212 Final departure and voyage home 244 Flower Gardens near Canton 292 Floating population of China 298 First American Ships to N. W. Coast.357 Fort Vancouver 388 Grey, Mr. hair-breadth escape 34 George Abernethey 131 Great Dalls, the 158 Gerritt P. Judd 222 Governor of Canton 262 Gulzlaff, Rev. Charles 263 House for Missiouaries built 12 Honolohn, city of. 77 Hostile demonstrations 142 "HoaTita," the vessel 203 Health of Hong Knng 873 History of Oregi-, 848 Hudson's Bay •\ny 380 Indian School enla^^-ed 15 Infant of Mrs. White drowned .. 33 Indian fight 99 Indian cooking 102 Indian dresses 107 Indians of Umpqua valley 117 Indian war-dance 174 Indian credulity 177 Indian eloquence 182 Indian feast , 184 Indian doctress killed 190 Independence of Sandwich Islands 223 Island of Formosa 260 Italian sailor 310 Incident on board ship 312 Journey down Columbia River 11* Joseph PoomafTe— death 18 IND £X ii John Day 161 John Ricord 224 J. R. Morrison * 210 "Job House," near Canton 2H6 John Jacob Astor 368 Kane's Fork, arrival at 11 Kayiiae Chief, We lap-lu-lalct 23 Klacicttmaa Tribe 144 Kamehameha, King ....219 Lee, Rev. Jason 10 Lucy Iledding— death 17 Leave Rio de Janerio. 62 Leave Valparaiso............ 73 Leo, Rev. Daniel 87 Leave Columbia River 201 Ladrone Islands 258 Leave Ifong Kong ...300 Lumber in Oregon. .....316 Missionary Meeting at St Louis 10 Marriages in Oregon 25 Mission at the Dalls 29 Medical aid sent to the Dalls 32 Mission School 35 Magellan Clouds 53 Mowi, Island of 76 Manoah, valley of 83 McLaughlin, Dr. John 90 Missionary Hymn ...106 McCary'a marriage 133 Mount Hood 150 Murder in Oregon ...248 Macao, city of 276 Mountains of Oregon 321 Monopoly of the Hudson's Bay Co 385 New Houses built 26 Native Church at Ilonolohn 79 Nez Perce Indians 178 Ningpoo Exchange 286 Nortn- west Fur Company 374 Oregon Mission— history 9 Oregon Temperance Society 15 Oregon Missionary Society formed .... 26 Out of sight of land 41 Oahu, island of. 77 " Old Pomp," 115 Oregon Institute.., 241 Observations on the Celestial Empire. .296 Oregon Territory, its geography 317 Parker, Rev. Mr. arrival at Mission ... 16 Pacific Coast— land journey to........ 27 Passengers on the voyage 42 Porpoises 50 Para, visit to . . 82 Perilous journey 114 Pillar Rock 195 Population of Sandwich Islands 1)09 Puuch Bowl Hill 228 Productions of Sandwich Islands 230 Political History of Oregon 417 Rainy Season 12 Religious excitement at the Dalls 35 Rio de Janerio (t Religious state of Rio 56 Royal family at Honolohu 8U Return from Umpqua 119 Rev. James Olley. drowned 123 Rock Island Rapids 12) Richard McCary's adventure i;(^ Recovery of a stolen horse 147 Reflections on the banks of the Colum- bia 151 Ri :r be Shoots ICu Red Wolf. ITU Roman Catholic Missionaries '217 Return to Oregon '-03 Rev. George Gary ^ Zio Rivers in Oregon 2r£ Restoration of Fort George 377 Slocum, Wm. A 21 Sea-sickness 41 Storm at sea .• 47 Slavery at Rio de Janerio 60 Straits ol Magellan 65 Sharks caught 74 Sandwich Islands, description of 78 Smith, Soublette and Jackson 110 Smith's fate Ill Search for the body of Rev. Mr. Olley. 128 Second Tour to Vancouver 129 Sad catastrophe 139 Supper at Champoeg 140 Sandwich Islands, view of 207 Seaman's Chaplaincy at Honolohn 216 Sabbath observance by Hawaiians 231 Straits of Sunda 302 Sumatra and Java 303 Soil of Oregon 33S SpanisD discoveries 3^19 Tour to the Umpqua 93 Talk with the Indians 104 Tour to Vancouver 120 Third visit to the Sandwich Islands 2o2 Timber of Oregon 3in Trading Posts West of Rocky Moun- tains 382 Tragedy on Columbia River .390 Umpqua, tour commenced... 29 Umpqua Fort 99 Umpqua Chief's wife killed 113 Vancouver, children baptized 12 Voyage from New York to Oregon 38 Valparaiso city 66 " definition of name 71 Valley of Lapwai 172 Voluntary interment of an Indian 186 Voyage to China 255 White Elijah 24 Wallamette River 31 Whales discovered ..... 49 Wallamette Falls 91 Wreck of the Alcesta 301 Young and Carmichael's letter 20 Yellow Serpent, and other Chiefs - - - -169 H] In t Head formei Misvsoi ■**i « 56 8U 110 Id 123 1!W ure i;s ) h: if the Coluni- 151 lOll m •ies 217 503 , 235 , 325 5 377 21 41 , 47 60 65 , 74 lion of 78 son 110 Ill V, Mr. Olley.128 r 129 , 139 140 207 [onolohn ....'216 waiians 231 302 303 3as »19 93 101 120 U Islands.... 252 3;n ocky Moun- ....382 Isr .S'JO 1 29 99 i 113 ^d 12 Oregon 38 ■^ 66 ■ne 71 172 Indian 186 .253 . 24 . 31 . 49 . 91 .301 ■ter 20 hiefs • . • -169 HISTORY OF THE OREGON MISSION. ..• *^0 CHAPTER I, HiHiory of the Oregon mission, from its commencement to the departure of the great reinforcement, in the fall of 1839, in the ship Lausanne. In the year 1832, four Indians, belonging to the Flat Head tribe, living west of the Rocky Mountains, per- formed a wearisome journey on foot to St. Louis, in Missouri, for the purpose of inquiring for the Christian's Book and the white man's God. Early in 1833, notice of tliis wonderful event was given in the Christian Advocate and Journal, published in New York, and a general feeling of christian sympathy was produced in all the churciies of the land for these interesting heathen, and a proposition was made that the Missionary Board of the Methodist Episcopal Church proceed forthwith to •jstahlish a mission among the Flat Head Indians. This measure was strongly advocated by Dr. Fisk, Dr. Bangs, and many others, while none were opposed to the accomplishment of so worthy an object. While the subject was being agitated. Dr. Fisk corresponded with the Rev. Jason Lee, of Stanstead, C. E., having for- merly been his tutor in the Wilbraham Academy, to ascertain whether he would undertake the superintend- ence of an Indian mission beyond the Rocky Mountains. Mr. Lee was then employed on an Indian mission, under the direction of the Church in Canada ; but yielding to the solicitations of Dr. Fisk, and from a conviction of duty, he left Canada, and repairing to Boston in June, 1 1(1 UtHfORV OI \ ' ' 1833, where the New En^rlaiul Conference was then in session, lie was received into tliat body as a memher on probation, ordained by Bisliop Iledding, and, on the recomtnendation of the Board of Managers of the Mis- sionary Society of the M. E. Cliurch, was apjwinted to tlie superintendence of the Oregon mission. In the following August, llev. Daniel Lee, a nephew of Rev. Jason Lee, was appointed to labor in the same field. When they received their appointment, they knew of no way of getting to the fu^ld assigned them, unless they ventured alone across the coniincnt, through hostile tribes, or could find some vessel bound to the ^iorth-West coast, around (Jape Horn, that would take their on board ; and they continued in suspense in regard to their mode of pro(;eeding, until November, when notice api)eared in the public journals that (Japtain N. J« Wyeth, of Cambridge, Mass., had recently re- turned from a tour west of the Rocky Mountains, and that he contemplated returning to Oregon in the follow- ing spring. C>n receiving this intelligence, J. Lee immediately repaired to Boston, had an interview with Capt. Wyeth* and readily obtained permission to accom- pany him back to Oregon. Capt. W. had also made arrangements to send a vessel, called the "May Dacre," round to the Columbia river, loaded with goods ; and while in Boston Mr. Lee procured the necessary outHt for his mission, and shipped it on board of ('apt. Wyeth's vessel. Here, also, by the consent of the Board, Mr. Lee engaged Cyrus Shepard, a lay member of the church, to accompany him. During the interval be- tween the time that they received their appointment, and the period fixed upon for their departure, the Lees held a number of missionary meetings in various parts of the country, with very encouraging results. Early in March, 1834, they left New England for the west, and on arriving in Missouri, P. L. Edwards, also a lay member, was connected with the mission party, which now numbered four. This company, after holding a most interesting mis- sionary meeting at St. Louis, proceeded to Fort THE OREGON MIHSION. u Independence, on the frontiers of Missouri, which is a place of general rendezvous before starting for the mountains, where thc^y met Capt. Wycth and his party, on the 24th of April, 1834. On the 25th, the expedition left Independence, and (;ommen(;ed their wearisome? and perilous journey across the Rocky Mountains, and on the 'iOth of June they arrived at tin; general rendezvous of the American Fur Traders on Kane's Fork, which is a branch of the ('olo- rado of the West. Here they continued till the 2nd of July, to recruit lh(;ir jaded animals, and then j)roceeded on, and on the 15th, arrived at a pla(;e on the Snake river, west of the mountains, where Wyeth and his men l)uilt a trading station, whi(;h he called Fort Hall. Here the mission- aries tarried until the 30th of July ; and as Capt. Wyeth was d(!tained lunger for the purpose of finishing his fort, the mission party resolved to proceed, in company with Mr. Thomas McKay and Capt. Stewart, and on the first day of September they arrived in safety at Fort Walla Walla, on the Columbia river. They ascertained, on their journey down from Fort Hall, that the Flat Head tribe of Indians was not only very small, but very disadvantageously situated for the establishment and support of missionary operations among them; and this brought them to the deternu nation to proceed down to the lower country, to find a more eligible site for the location of their mission. Leaving their horses at Walla- Walla, they proceeded down the Columbia in ono of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany's boats, and after a tedious voyage of eleven days, against strong head winds, they arrived in safety at Vancouver on the 15th of September, and the following night slept under a roof, for the first time for one hundred and fifty-two nights. Worn out with the ex- cessive labor and fatigue of their long journey, they could well appreciate the kind hospitality with which they were entertained by the gentlemen of the Fort ; but they gave themselves but two days to rest, and to consult with their hosts, who were well acquainted with 12 HISTORY OF all the Indian tribes, concerninff the object they had in view ; and en the 18th, J. and D. Lee were off on an exploring tour through the country, to " make observa- tions relative to the best location for the mission." Examining the Wallamette valley and other portions of the country, they returned to ^''ancouver on the 27th, still undecided as to the proper place to make the location. Ihe merits of the different portions of the country were considered, the Flat Heads, die Nez Perces, the Kayuses, aiid other tribes, were faithfully reviewed, but to the exclusion of all 'others, the Wa .nriette valley was strongly recommended by Dr. John McLaughlin and the rest of the gentlemen of Vancouver, as the most eligible place for the establishment of the centre of their ope- rations. On Sunday, the 28th, Jason Lee i^»reached twice at Vancouver, to a congregT-tion of English, Irish, French, half-caste, &c., which were the first sermons ever preached in the place, and doubtless the first that many of the people had ever heard. It was finally decided, " after n ich prayer for direc- tion as to the place," to locat the mission in the Wallamette valley, and as the rig May Dacre had safely arrived in the Columbia wi i the goods belonging to the mission, measures were immediately taken to receive them from Capt. Lamb .'t, and convey them to the place selected for the stat' n. The brig lay at the mouth of the Multnomah, or Ic -er mouth of the Walla- mette, and the site for the mission was seventv-five miles up the river; but, after "much toil and hard labor," Mr. Lee succeeded in getting up all the goods, and they were landed on the mission premises on the 6th day of October. The rainy season was commencing,, and as they had no house to shelter either themselves or their goods from the inclemency of the weather, they went imme- diately to work to prepare logs, &c., to build a house. The rain fell in torrents long before their house was erected, yet they labored constantly during the day, and THE OREGON MISSION. H it night were obliged to lie down together in a small [tent, scarcely large enough to contain them, and, [wrapped in their wet clothes, seek a few hours' repose [to prepare them for the toils and storms of the ensuing day. Their house was 32 feet by 18, and on the 3d of November they moved their goods into it, though they [had put on but ten feet of the roof. So soon as they got their house thus partly covered, they began to [receive Indian children into their family, witn the design [of establishing a mission school, and also to labor for the [spiritual benefit of all the Indians, and the few French [people who had settled in the country. Meetings were [established at the house of Mr. Joseph (xervais, and held every Sabbath, the principal attendants being [French and half-caste. On the 14th of December, Mr. Jason Lee visited [Vancouver, where he preached, and baptized four adults and seventeen children. In consideration of these ser- I vices he received, in donations, from the gentlemen of ithe company, the sum of twenty dollars, for the benefit I of the mission. During the winter of 1835, the missiona- ries were alternately employed in improving their house, [procuring supplies, preaching the gospel, and teaching the Indian and half-caste children to read and write. Thrown entirely upon their own resources, in the [spring, to guard against future want, they commenced cultivating the ground. There was no alternative; they must do so, or starve. While they saw some fruits of their labors in other respects, this department of their wcxk, during the summer, was greatly prospered, for in the fall, after they gathered in their crops, they found themselves with a good supply of wheat, peas, oats, and barley, and two hundred and fifty bushels of potatoes in their cellar. This, with six barrels of salmon which J. Lee purchased fresh of the Indians at the Wallamette Falls, and salted with his own hands, and took up the river to the mission, furnished them with the means of subsistence for the following year. Soon after the missionaries first arrived, Mr. Cyrus Shepard was employed at Vancouver, to teach the chil- B-«- 14 HISTORY OF 5'i dren belonging to the Fort, but losing his health, he was obliged to leave his school. On the Ist of March he ascended the river in company with Mr. Lee, and from that time remained on the Wallamette station. Late in August a circumstance happened which shows to what dangers the missionaries were exposed. A boy whose Indian name was Ken-o-teesh, belonging to the Si-le-lah tribe, was received into the mission in April, and died on the 19th of the following August. A few days after his death, his brother came to the mission, determined to seek revenge for the death of Ken-o- teesh, by taking the life of Daniel Lee and Cyrus Shepard. He remained over night, and was prevented from accomplishing his design only by the interposition of an Indian who accompanied him. Bent upon glut- tine his vengeance on somebody, he crossed the river, and fell upon a band of unarmed Indians, and savagely murdered several of them. In the month of September, nearly the whole mission family were attacked with the intermittent fever, and the mission house was converted into an hospital, with- out an attending physician. A scene of distress now presented itself, and our missionaries not only suffered personally, but were obliged to descend to the most menial services, in waiting upon the Indian children, for whose comfort they manifested the utmost care. Mr. Daniel Lee and Mr. P. L. Edwards left the mission premises the last of September, the former for Vancouver to obtain medical aid, and the latter to embark on board the Brig May Dacre for the United States. Remaining awhile at Vancouver without bene- fit to his health, Mr. Lee, by the advice of Dr. Mc- Laughhn, embarked on board one of the Hudson's Bay Company's ships, bound for the Sandwich Islands, and in consequence of this, Mr. Edwards relinquished the idea of leaving the country at that time, and returned to the mission, and late in October established a school for the winter, at Campment du Sable, on Cliampoeg. To provide for future contingencies, the missionaries sowed that fall twenty-seven bushels of wheat. THE OREGON M18810N. 15 On the 26th of November, the Rev. Mr. Parker a Presbyterian Clergyman from the State of New York, arrived at the mission, where he was most cordially received. He had been sent out by the A, B. C, F. M. to explore the country, and ascertain the most eligible site for a mission. He remained at the station two days only, when he returned to Vancouver. Dr. Marcus Whitman accompanied him over the Ro.'ky Mountains, but on arriving at the Snake river, the doctor returned to the States for the piiroose of inducing the Board to appoint missionaries forthwith to Oregon. The enlargement of the mission family by receiving Indian children from time to time, rendered it necessary, at the close of this year, for the missionaries to build an addition to their house, 32 by 16 feet. This they did principally with their own hands. In reviewing the year, the missionaries found cause for thankfulness in the success which had attended their labors, though they had been called to pass through some trying scenes, and to meet with many discouragements. They had received fifteen children into the family, of whom four had died, and one had been dismissed, leaving ten under their instruction. These were making rapid progress in manners, science, and useful labor ; and by the bless- ing of God the missionaries had a sufficiency of whole- some food for themselves and the children. In February, 1836, hearing it rumored abroad that certain Americans, who had arrived in the country, were about to commence the manufacture of rum, and fearing, from a knowledge of the material of which the Oregon community was composed, that intemperance would sweep over their field of labor, the missionaries invited the settlers to the mission house, and formed the Oregon Temperance Society, the first organized west of the Rocky Mountains. Three only, besides the members of the mission, signed the pledge at first, but subsequently the number increased to eighteen. A.bout the first of March a vessel arrived in the Co- lumbia from the Sandwich Islands, bringing intelligence that the health of Daniel Lee had much improved, but t : HI" I'M HISTORY OF for the general good of the cause he had concluded to remain till another opportunity should present itself for returning to Oregon. The natives of Oakee had made a contribution to Mr. Lee for the benefit of the Oregon mission, amounting to two hundred and fifty dollars. At the same lime that this intelligence reached the mis- sion, a letter was received by Jason Lee from Dr. McLaughlin, inclosing a subscription for the benefit of the mission, to the amount of one hundred and thirty dollars, all from the gentlemen at Vancouver. As the letter shows in what light these intelligent persons viewed the mission at that time, I insert a copy. It is as follows : "Fort Vancouver, 1st March, 1836. The Rev. Jason Lee : Dear Sir^ — I do myself the pleasure to hand you the inclosed subscription, which tne gentlemen who have signed it request you will do them the favor to accept for the use of the mission, and they pray our Heavenly Father, without whose assistance we can do nothing, that of his infinite mercy he may vouchsafe to bless and prosper your pious endeavors — and believe me to be, with esteem and regard, your sincere well wisher and humble servant, »^ _ John McLaughlin." »i iryfr^X,,-, The business of the mission continued as usual, with- out any thing especial taking place, until the 30th of April, when we find Mr. J. Lee at the death bed of G. Sergent, a native of New England, whom he found in extreme agony both of body and mind. As Mr. Lee entered, the dying man told him that as he had lived a life of wickedness, he was about to die an awful death. The missionary pointed him to the Redeemer of the world, and commended him to God in prayer. He ap- peared deeply affected, and responding a hearty ameriy m a short time ceased to breathe. Teaching the children, preaching to both the settlers and natives, visiting the sick, attending funerals, and THK OREGON MISSION. 17 harvesting their crops, employed the time of the mis- ionaries during the summer ; and in the fall, to make leir " bread sure, " they sowed thirty-four bushels of rheat. In the latter part of August there arrived a vessel in Columbia river from England, by the way of the landwich Islands, having on board the Rev. Daniel Lee, /ho had recovered his health, and Rev. Mr. Beaver ^nd lady. Mr. Beaver had been sent out as chaplain the Hudson's Bay Company at Vancouver. He was clergyman of the Church of England. Mr. Lee irrived at the mission at a very seasonable time to Jender himself useful, not only in his appropriate mis- ionary work, but also in assisting to take care of the ick members of the mission family. At this time Mr. . Lee was suffering under a severe attack of the inter- littent fever. Partially recovering from this attack, he ftarted for Vancouver on the 6th of September, taking nth him a favorite Indian girl whom he called Lucy [edding, to obtain medical aid in her behalf On the 12th, he returned, bringing information of the irrival at Walla- Walla of the Rev. Mr. Spaulding and afe. Dr. Whitman and wife, and Mr. Grey, who had )een sent out as missionaries by the A. B. C. F. M. lS Mr. Lee had taken the lower country, they decided ipon locating their mission in the interior, among the ".ayuse and Nez Perce Indians. These were the first imerican ladies that ever crossed the Rocky Mountains, ind their arrival in the country formed an epoch in the listory of Oregon. * During the month of September, nearly all the mission family were sick at once, with the intermittent fever, md another was taken to Vancouver, by Mr. Edwards, For medical aid. Mr. Edwards returned on the 30th, )ringing with him Lucy Hedding, who had received no )enefit from medicine. She died on the 5th of October. On the 22nd, J. Lee had a third attack of the fever, feo severe as to deprive him of reason for a short time. Te continued to suffer, without medical advice, until the 51 8t of November, when, in a very reduced state, he I* 18 HISTORY OF ifr set out for Vancouver, where he arrived two days afterwards. During his absence, died Joseph PournafFe, a member of the mission school, aged 17 years. This lad was very attentive to reliffious instruction, and left off play and work on the Sabbath, immediately on being told it was wrong. He often expressed much thankfulness that the missionaries had come to the country, to learn him to read, and tell him about God. He was a pro- mising youth, and, if he had lived, would probably have been a olessing to the country. As it was, the missiona- ries had much consolation in his death, for he gave them satisfaction that their labors had not been in vain. On the 28th of December, after an absence of five weeks, J. Lee returned from Vancouver with his health somewhat improved, though still quite feeble. Eighteen children and adults had been admitted into the mission family during this year ; two had died and one had run away. The missionaries found on their hands, the last day of December, twenty-five persons ; but having enlarged their farming operations, by the blessing of God they found themselves in the possession of supplies amply sufficient to sustain them until another harvest. On the 2nd day of January, 1837, the members of the mission found cause to rally their forces, to support the cause of temperance. A meeting of the Temperance Society was called at the mission house ; one member who had violated the pledge, was excluded, and three more were added to the Society. As the reports con- cerning the distillation of ardent spirits were about to be verified by a couple of men, named Young and Carmi- chael, it was unanimously resolved by the meeting to send them a written request, signed by all the members of the Oregon Temperance Society, to desist from their unholy enterprise. The following is a copy of the correspond- ence which took place between the Society and Messrs. Young & Carmichael, and is inserted to show what stand the missionaries took in guarding the morals of the community, and the extent of the influence they THE OREGON MISSION. 19 exerted. But for these measures, intemperance would have devastated the country. ** Messrs. Young & Carmichael : " Gentlemen, — Whereas we, the members of the Oregon Temperance Society, have learned with no common interest, and with feelings of deep regret, that you are now preparing a distillery for the purpose of manufacturing ardent spirits, to be sold in this vicinity; and, whereas, we are most fully convinced that the vending of spiritous liquors will more effectually para- lyze our efforts for the promotion of temperance, than any other, or all other obstacles that can be thrown in our way ; and, as we do feel a lively and intense interest in the success of the temperance cause, believing as we do, that the prosperity and interests of this infant and rising settlement will be materially affected by it, both as it respects its temporal and spiritual welfare, and that the poor Indians, whose case is even now indescribably wretched, will be made far more so by the use of ardent spirits ; and whereas, gentlemen, you are not ignorant that the laws of the United States prohibit American citizens from selling ardent spirits to Indians under the penalty of a heavy fine ; and as you do not pretend to justify yourselves, but urge pecuniary interest as the reason of your procedure ; and as we do not, cannot think it will be of pecuniary interest to you to prosecute this business ; and as we are not enemies, but friends, and do not wish, under existing circumstances, that you should sacrifice one penny of the money you have already expended; we, therefore, for the above, and various other reasons which we could urge, " 1st. Resolved, That we do most earnestly and feeU ingly request you, gentlemen, forever to abandon your enterprise. "2nd. Resolved, That we will and do hereby agree to pay you the sum you have expended, if you will give us the avails of your expenditures, or deduct from tnera the bill of expenses. 20 HISTORY OP I! Iff " 3d. Resolvedf That a committee of one be appointed to make known the views of this society, and present our request to Messrs. Young & Carmichael. " 4th. Resolvedf That the undersigned will pay the sums severally affixed to our names, to Messrs. i ounc <& Carmichael, on or before the thirty-first day of March next, the better to enable them to give up their project." Then followed the names of nine Americans, and fifteen Frenchmen, which then embraced a majority of the white men of the country, excluding the Hudson's Bay Company, with a subscription of sixty-three dollars, and a note appended as follows: " We, the undersigned, jointly promise to pay the balance, be the same more or less. ** Jason Lee, . Daniel Lee, Cyrus Shepard, P. L. Edwards." To the above request Messrs. Young & Carmichael returned the following answer: '"^ "Wallamette, 13th Jan., 1837. " To the Oregon Temperance Society: " Gentlemen^ — Having taken into consideration your request to relinquish our enterprise in manufacturing ardent spirits, we therefore do agree to stop our pro- ceeding for the present. But, gentlemen, the reasons for first beginning such an undertaking were the innu- merable difficulties placed in our way by, and the tyranising oppression of the Hudson's Bay Company, here under the absolute authority of Dr. McLaughlin, who has treated us with more disdain than any Ameri- can citizen's feelings could support. But as there have now some favorable circumstances occurred to enable us to get along without making spiritous liquors, we resolve to stop the manufacture of it for the present; but, gentlemen, it is not consistent with our feelings to I ir '. THE OREGON MISSION. 21 receive any recompense whatever for our expenditures, but we are thankful to the Society for their offer. " We remain, yours, &c., ** YouNO & Carmichael." The missionaries from the first had proved a great blessing to the country, not only in a spiritual and moral point of view, but in furnishing employment to many individuals otherwise without the means of livelihood ; and setting an example of industry and perseverance in the temporal departments of their worK, they gave a spur to all business operations, and the community seemed at once to spring from that state of inactivity into which it had been thrown by the domineering policy of the Hudson's Bay Company, into one of great enterprise and prosperity. In the early part of January a circumstance transpired which enabled the members of the mission and others, to carry out a design which they had previously formed, and in the execution of which the temporal interests of the country would be greatly promoted. This design was to send an expedi- tion to California to purchase and drive to Oregon a band of neat cattle for the supply of the settlers. The circumstance referred to was the arrival in the country of Wm. A. Slocum, Esq., of the United States Navy. Up to this period there were no cattle in the country, except what belonged to the Hudson's Bay Company, and they would not sell, but compelled the settlers, if they had cattle at all, to take cows merely for their milk, and return them with their increase. This looked too much like oppression to Mr. Jason Lee, and he resolved, if possible, to break up the cattle monopoly, believing that he would thereby confer a lasting benefit to the country. On the arrival of Mr. Slocum, he pro- posed to take to California, any number of persons that might be needed, free of expense except board ; and a meeting was immediately called at the mission house, for the purpose of forming a California Cattle Company, and maKing the necessary arrangements for the expedi- tion. Each person belonging to the Company was to 33 HISTORY OF I , share in proportion to the amount of money he invested, and the persons who went with the expedition were to be paid a stipulated sum per month in cattle. P. L. Edwards and Ewing Young, were appointed to take charge of the Company, and Thursday the 19th of January was fixed upon as the day for the vessel to sail. Mr. Slocum, while in Oregon, manifested a deep interest in the welfare of the rising settlement, and especially in the prosperity of the Oregon mission. He highly approved of the method the missionaries had pursued to benefit the Indians, and said he was perfectly astonished at the improvement those had made who were under the care of the mission. In company with Mr. Jason Lee, he visited the several farms m the settlement, and on the 14th, took his leave of the Walla- mette, Mr. Lee accompanying him to Vancouver. A letter signed by the missionaries, commendatory of the course Mr. Slocum had pursued in the country, had been put into his hands before leaving, and he returned them the following answer, which contained a donation of fifteen dollars lor the benefit of the mission. This letter was put into the hands of Mr. Lee during his last interview with Mr. Slocum. ^H ■ '%^_ " ** American Brio Loriot, off the Wallamktte, ' Oregon rivers 18th January, 1837. I " My dear Sirs : — I have much pleasure in acknow- ledging the receipt of your kind favor of the 16th, and I beg leave to thank you for the expressions of regard contained therein. It was indeed a source of regret that I could continue no longer at your mission on the banks of the Wallamette, for the visit was to me one of exceeding interest. On my return to the civilized Earts of our country, I shall not hesitate to express my umble opinion that you have already effected a great public good, by practically showing that the Indians west of the Rocky Mountains are capable of the union of mental and physical discipline, as taught at your establishment. For I have seen with my own eyes, children, who, two years ago, were roaming their own THE OREGON MISSION. i invested, n were to le. P. L. d to take J 19th of 3el to sail, i a deep nent, and 3ion. He aries had perfectly lade who mny with IS in the le Walla- uver. A ry of the itry, had returned donation n. This ? his last lETTE, •I acknow- 6th, and regard regret on the me one civilized ess my a great Indians union your eyes, tir own native wilds in a state of savage barbarism, now being brought within the knowledge of moral and religious instruction, becoming useful members of society, by being taught the most useful of all arts, agriculture, and all this without the slightest compulsion. " As an evidence ot my good will towards the lauda- ble etTorts vou are making in this remote quarter, debarred of almost every comfort, deprived of the associations of kindfed, and of Aowe, I beg you to accept herewith, the sum of fifty dollars ; only regretting that my means at present will not allow me to add more, I pray you to accept, my dear sirs, the assurances of the unfeigned regard of, " Your friend and ob'nt servant, " Wm. a. Slocum, U. S. N." Mr. Slocum's vessel left the Columbia river about the first of February, and arrived safely in the Bay of San Francisco, on the coast of California. The cattle com- pany proceeded immediately to purchase a large band of cattle, and a number of horses, with which they started for Oregon. In crossing a range of mountains separating the two countries, they were attacked by the Rascal Indians, and a number of their cattle were killed, but they at length succeeded in driving back their foe, and saving the remainder. Contrary to the predictions and wishes of the members of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany, who indirectly opposed them at the outset, they arrived in safety in the Wallamette valley with six hundred head of cattle, and distributed them among the settlers, according to the provisions of the compact. This successful enterprise, which laid the foundation for a rapid accumulation of wealth by the settlers, was mainly accomplished through the energy and persever- ance of Rev. Jason Lee. Sometime in July, 1836, We-lap-tu-lekt, an Indian of the Kayuse tribe, came to the mission on the Walla- mette, and brought two of his sons, whom he desired to have remain to be educated. He had travelled with the missionaries, v/hile on their way from Fort Hall to 24 HISTORY OP Walla-Walla, and seemed very attentive to religious instruction, and desirous that missionaries should settle in the Kayuse country ; but none having yet come, he resolved to visit the mission in the lower country. He was so well pleased that he determined to return to his country, and bring his family down to the mission, as soon HB J ossible. This he accomplished by the 6th of September, when he settled his family near the mis- sion station. Some of his children attended the school, and appeared to be making rapid improvement, but in February, 1837, his family began to suffer with disease. Two of his children died in quick succession, and a third was fast sinking with a burning fever. We-lap-tu-lekt was frightened, and supposed that all his family would die, if he did not leave the place. He accordingly fled in a canoe, but just at the moment of his landing at Vancouver, another of his family expired. These re- peated deaths in one family, and the fact that most of the mission children were sick, and some had died but recently, began to create a prejudice in the minds of the Indians, against having their children remain with the mission, and after this it was not so easy to procure and retain them. In February, 1835, Mr. Lee addressed letters to the Board in New York, earnestly soliciting them to send out a reinforcement. In compliance with this request, the Board appointed Dr. Elijah White and wife, Mr. Alanson Beers and wife. Miss Ann Maria Pitman, Miss Susan Downing, Miss Elvina Johnson, and Mr. W. H. Wilson, assistant missionaries. This company sailed from Boston in July, 1836, and, after several months detention at the Sandwich Islands, entered the mouth of the Columbia river in May, 1837. Intelligence of their arrival in the Columbia was received on the 18th of May, and the following day J. Lee went down the river in a canoe to meet them and conduct them to the station. On the 27th he returned with five of them, the others remaining awhile at Vancouver. Their arrival in the country was hailed by the four lonely brethren, who had hitherto composed the mission, with great thidnes^ be cl rent fei icy haJ >r man| The statj le mis8| >y anot lesired >f the kl The 1 [inckle; |einforc( them ba that mo tvith inf Dr. Wh On th< I'emperi V^hen sh \. Lee, ] 7welve lory infl On S; Oregon )f the m 'he sei jommer ing to tl the Re\ >hepar( r'lih M 'his ws jacram( thrilling fessed t rion, ui )rough the sa( THE OREGON MISSION. 25 [ladncss, and the more so because they were thenceforth be cheered by the presence and sympathy of intelli- gent females, from their own native land, especially as icy had found, long before this, that " it was not good >r man to be alone." The next day after the arrival of the reinforcement at ic station, Sam-nik, a Calapooa chief, was brought to le mission house, dreadfully mangled, having been shot }y another Indian, while sleeping in his lodge. He lesired surgical aid. This was the second circumstance >f the kind that had transpired within a short time. The last of May, the mission was visited by Captain [inckley and lady, of the vessel that brought out the Reinforcement, and the first of June, J. Lee accompanied lem back to Vancouver. On his return, the 13th of [hat month, he found Cyrus Shepard dangerously sick ^ith inflammatory fever; but under the faithful care of )r. White, he soon recovered. On the 4th of July, the annual meeting of the Oregon ^emperance Society was held at the mission house, ^hen short and appropriate addresses were delivered by Lee, D. Lee, A. Beers, W. H. Wilson and Dr. White, 'welve new members were added, and a most satisfac- tory influence was gained for the cause of temperance. On Sabbath, the 16th of July, a large assembly for Oregon convened in the pleasant grove of firs, in front )f the mission house, for the purpose of religious worship, "^he services were conducted by Rev. Daniel Lee, and commenced by his uniting in lawful matrimony, accord- ing to the form laid down in the Methodist Discipline, the Rev. Jason Lee with Miss Ann Maria Pitman, Cyrus ^>hepard with Miss Susan Downing, and Charles Roe riih Miss Nancy, an Indian girl of the Calapooa tribe, 'his was followed by an appropriate discourse, and the jacrament of the Lord's Supper. It was a season of thrilling interest to all present. Two persons who pro- fessed to have recently experienced the comforts of reli- gion, united with the church, and one of them, though )rought up a Quaker, was baptized, and both partook of the sacrament. I'^'K ',1 I ! :l 9» HISTORY OP No particular change took place in the mission in consequence of the arrival of the reinforcement, with the exception of the enlargement of its financial opera- tions. Two log houses, for the accommodation of the families, and a blacksmith shop, were immediately erected. A short time after, a frame house was built, located one mile from the station back from the river, and was occupied by the family of Dr. White. This was the only comfortable house as yet owned by the mission. During the same season Mr. Lee bought out a Frenchman who had built a small house, and opened a farm so near the mission premises as to be much in the way. By this purchase the mission enlarged its farm- ing impr-'^ements, and having now a large band of cattle, resulting from the California expedition, Mr. Josiah Whitcomb was employed by the mission to take charge of the farming operations, as it was impossible for the Lees to attend to them and look after the spiritual wants of the people. The number of children and adults in the mission continued to increase, notwithstanding the numerous deaths that had taken place, until the average number attending the day and sabbath school was from thirty to thirty-nve. The school was under the judicious man- agement of Cyrus Shepard, and at this period was in a very flourishing condition. The scholars were taught the English language, and made rapid proficiency in reading, writing, spelling, geography, and arithmetic. As the sickly season came on, some of the missionaries performed two tours through the country, for the benefit of their health. On the 2d of August, Mr. and Mrs. Lee and Mr. Shepard, accompanied by Mr. Desportes as a guide, started up the Wallamette river on horse- back, and journeying leisurely for several days, towards the south, took a circuit eastward, and striking the head waters of the Molala river, followed down that stream to the north, towards where it forms a junction with the Wallamette. Crossing the latter river at Champoeg, they returned in safety to the mission, after an absence of ten days. They saw and imparted instruction to a THE OREGON MISSION. 27 mission in [few bands of Indians on their route, and returned with [reanimated health. On the 14th of August, Mr. J. Lee and Mr. C. Shep- lard, with their wives, accompanied by Joseph Gervais las guide, left the mission to perform a land journey to [the Pacific coast. They traveled one day and a half, [through a very beautiful and fertile country, crossing [the Wallamette and Yamhill rivers, and encamped the [second night at the foot of the mountains which separate [the Wallamette valley from the Pacific ocean. Next [day they commenced crossing the mountains, but found [the trail exceedingly difficult, on account of the abrupt- [ness of the ascending and descending, and the numerous large trees that had fallen across it. This rendered [their progress very slow, and the third night they nicamped in a deep, dark valley, among the mountains, [twelve miles from the shore. During the night it was [very rainy, and also the following day ; but thev moved (camp in the morning, and at 5 p. m. pitched tneir tent in a beautiful cypress grove, within a short distance of [the shore, so that their encampment commanded a fine [view of the broad expanse of the Pacific ocean. Here they continued for one week, visiting the Kille- look Indians, who inhabit that portion of the country, land preaching to them as they were able. They jnjoy-^d the clams and other shell-fish, which they pro- cured from the delightful sandy beach, and invigorated themselves by frequent bathing in the salt water. On the 26th, they left their pleasant encampment, and after [four days^ toil in crossing the mountains, jumping the ilogs, fording the st'^oams, and traveling over the prai- jries, they arrived at the mission, after an absence of leixteen days. They were better qualified, from the jimprovement of their health, to pursue the business of Hheir calHng. On the 4th of September following, Mr. Daniel Lee [and Mr. Shepard started for Vancouver on business, [and arrived there on the 6th. On the following day, a [canoe arrived at Vancouver, direct from the mouth of [the river, bringing the Rev. Daniel Leslie and Rev. H. >. u 28 HISTORY OF nil' K. W. Perkins, who had recently entered the river, in the ship Sumatra. They, with Mrs. LesUe and three children, and Miss Margaret Smith, constituted a second reinforcement to the Oregon mission. They sailed from Boston on the 20th of January, 1837, and reached the place of their destination, on the Wallamette river, the 20th of September. Soon after the arrival of Mr. Per- kins, a union betwixt himself and Miss Elvira Johnson, who came out in the former reinforcement, which had been long in contemplation, was consummated. They were married on the 21st of November, 1837, by Rev. David Leslie. On the 25th of December, a general meeting was called at the mission house, and an Oregon Missionary Society was formed. A liberal subscription was raised, to be expended the ensuing year, for the benefit of the Calapooa Indians. At the close of this year, the missionaries were all residing at or near the Wallamette station, and were laboring in their respective departments, not without effect, some in sustaining the interests of the mission school, some in preaching to the Calapooas, and the white settlements, some in different mechanical branches, and some in taking care of the farm and the rapidly increasing stock of cattle and horses. Several members of the mission school had died during the year, and mortal diseases unceasingly prevailed among the Indians throughout the country; yet, in view of all the circum- stances of the case, the missionaries wer^ encouraged, and began to take measures for the enlargement of their operations. . r . Attending to the interests of the temperance cause, Mr. J. Lee set out, soon after the 1st of January, on an exploring tour to the Umpqua country, in company with Mr. Birnie, one of the traders of the Hudson's Bay Company. This country lies some two hundred miles south of Vancouver, and it was reported to contain several thousand Indians, and as offering a fine field for missionary operations. The late rains had swollen the rivers and creeks to such a degree, that it was almost THE OREGON MISSION. 20 impossible for Mr. Lee to proceed; yet, after severaJ days of toilsome and dangerous journeying, through the mud and rain, and fording the rapid streams that crossed his path, he succeeded in reaching the trading post of the Hudson's Bay Company, situated on the IJmpqua river, forty miles above its mouth. The information he received here was of an encouraging nature, and such was the difficulty of traveling, that he resolved to extend his observations no farther. Accordingly he returned to the Wallamette, where he arrived on the nth of March, 1838, under the impression that, so soon as a competency of missionaries could be provided, a station should be established somewhere in the Umpqua valley. About this time, a meeting of all the missionariep, preachers, and laymen was called, to consult on t'le subject of establishing a new station; and, after the merits of several portions of the country were presented, it was unanimously resolved, that a mission be com- menced at the Dalls, on the Columbia river, about ninety miles above Vancouver. Daniel Lee and H. K. W. Perkins were appointed by the superintendent to the new mission. They left the Wallamette station, to I repair to their new field, on the 14th of March, Mr. Perkins leaving his wife behind, until they could make arrangements for the convenience of a family. Before Daniel Lee and Mr. Perkins left the Walla- mette, a general consultation was held on the subject of a still greater enlargement of the missionary work, in Oregon. In the estimation of the meeting, " the harvest was plenteous and the laborers were few." The Umpqua, Killamook, Klikitat, Clatsop, Chenook, Nezqualy, and many other tribes, were destitute of missionaries ; and in view of these different stations, and the general wants of the country, they passed a unanimous resolution, ad- vising the Rev. Jason Lee to make a visit to the United States for the purpose of representing before the Board of Managers of the Missionary Society of the M. E. Church and the public generally, the true condition of the country, and of the Indians, and soliciting the men irji 30 HISTORY OF and means which, in their judgment, were necessary, for the successful prosecution of the missionary work. Mr. Lee concurred in the opinions thus expressed by the members of the mission, and accordingly took leave of his wife and brethren on the Wallamette, on the 26th day of March, 1838, and commenced the long and hazardous journey back across the Rocky mountains. He was accompanied by P. L. Edwards, of the mission, a Mr. Ewing, of Missouri, and two Indian boys of the Chenook tribe, called Wm. Brooks and Thos. Adams. It was a trying scene when Mr. Lee took his departure ' from his companions in labor and suffering in Oregon, and the more so Irom the consideration that he was leaving his beloved wife, to whom he had been married less than a year ; but in his opinion, it was his duty to return, and call for fellow-laborers ; and, though worldly interests and enjoyments demanded his continuance in j Oregon, yet he practised on the principle, that all such things should give place to considerations of duty. It was the first of April before Mr. Lee found himself prepared to take his departure from Vancouver, towards the Rocky mountains ; but before we follow him in his toilsome and perilous journey home, we will contem- plate some of the circumstances which were transpiring among those whom he had left in the valley of Oregon. On the 21st of April Rev. H. K. W. Perkins arrived at the mission from the Dalls, and brought a favorable report from the new station. The Indians are known by the name of the Wasco tribe, and they call the place where they live, Wascopam. They were found to number from twelve to fifteen hundred ; were much pleased with the idea of the establishment of a mission among them, and were willing to assist in preparing a place for the accommodation of the missionaries. On the 26th of April, Mr. and Mrs. Perkins left the Wallamette in a canoe manned by Indians, to take up their residencv. at Wascopam. The voyage from the Wallamette station to the Dalls, was first down the Wallamette river the distance of seventy miles to its mouth, and then up the Columbia river the distance of THK ORKOOIV MISSION. , mission linety-five miles. Both rivers are dangerous, in conse- juence of the numerous rapids, but after several days )f exposure and fatigue, Mr. and Mrs. Perkins arrived in safety at the Balls, and by the assistance of Mr. D. Lee and the Indians, soon established themselves in comfortable quarters. Mr. D. I-iee had already acquired knowledge of the Chenook language as spoken in the ricinity of Vancouver, which the Wascoes generally inderstood, and could preach immediately to the Indians without the aid of an interpreter. As the Walla- Walla tribe was contiguous, and their language understood by rnany of the Dalls Indians, Mr. Perkins, in addition to (earning the Chenook, applied himself to the acquire- lent of the Walla- Walla, and it was not long before he 30uld preach to the Indians in both languages. The )lan adopted was to circulate among the Indians, and ^reach to them wherever they could be found ; and from the reception which the missionaries met, and the ipparent attention given to the gospel, seldom was there ;ver an Indian mission established under more favorable luspices. Things moved on quite prosperously in all the depart- ^iients, under the direction of Rev. David Leslie, whom VIr. Jason Lee had appointed his substitute during his ^ibsence, until the 2Gth day of June, when an event Iriinspired among the little band on the Wullamette, which, from the circumstances attending it, threw a gloom over the hitherto cheering aspects of the mission. Aiiii Maria, wife of the Rev. Jason Lee, gave birth to a 3on on the 6th of June, which she was doomed to see ixpire a few days afterwards. At the time of its death infavorable symptoms appeared in Mrs. Lee, and on ^uesday, the 26th, at six o'clock A. M., she calmly closed ler eyes in death. The following day the afflicted band )f missionaries committed to the grave the remains of [this youthful mother, with her little son clasped in her irms. When this took place Mr. Lee had been absent |three months, and was far on his way to the United States ; but through the kindness of Dr. McLaughlin, Ian express was sent off immediately, to carry to Mr. HISTORY OF fill s Lee the sad tidings of the death of his companion. It was about the first of September when Mr. Lee arrived at the Methodist mission among the Shawnees, on the frontiers of Missouri, then under the superintendence of Rev. Mr. Johnson, and having retired to his room, late in the evening, he was offering up a tribute of thanksgiving to Him who had been his preserver while on his toilsome journey through the hostile tribes of the mountains, when he heard a rap at his door. Rising, he admitted the stranger, who placed a package of letters in his hands, and immediately left the room. He broke the black seal of one, and the first line conveyed to him the heart-rending intelligence that his Ann Maria, and her httle son, were numbered with the dead. Leaving the afflicted missionary to indulge his grief alone, we ^ return to review other scenes in the valley of the Columbia. On the 14th day of August, information was received in the Wallamette, that Mrs. Perkins, at the Dalls, was very sick, and stood in great need of medical aid, and^^ other assistance. Accordingly Rev. D. Leslie, Dr. I. Bailey, and Mrs. White with her little daughter then eight months old, embarked for the Balls in a canoe manned by Indians, and six days afterward arrived there in safety. In the mean time Dr. Whitman, from the mission in the interior, had visited Mrs. P., and when the company arrived from the Wallamette, her health was nearly restored ; consequently, on the morn- ing of the 22nd, Mr. Leslie and Mrs. White left the Dalls to return home. They descended the Columbia' to the cascades the first day, and the next morning 1 made a portage of some three miles, and again all were seated quietly in the canoe, and the Indians struck | out into the strong current. Below them were rapids which, in consequence of the high water, were wo^se than they anticipated. The river at this place is about one mile and a half wide, and the canoe was about one- third of a mile from the nearest sH ;io. They saw the dashing of the waters before them, but sucn v^as the strengtn of the current that already bore then- down, THR OREGON MISSION. 33 that it was impossible to shun the dangerous point. Soon the canoe was carried among the rolling surges, filled, capsized, and instantly all were plunged into the frightful gulph. Mr. Leslie, on rising to the surface of the river, thought of Mrs. White, and seeing her be- neath his feet, immediately plunged after her, if possible to bring her to the surface. He caught hold of her I clothes, and came up to the surface, struggled for a I moment to keep her above the water, but was obliged i to relinquish his hold. He iiow thought that by giving her up he might possibly save his own life, but it then I occurred to him that she was entrusted to his care, and ! at once resolving to do his best to save her if he died in the attempt, plunged after her again, and seizing her clothes, brought her to the surface. Discovering the canoe drifting but a short distance from him, bottom up, he soon regained it, and got hold of the hand of an Indian, who had risen on the other side of the canoe, and suc- ceeded in keeping the head of Mrs. White above th'^^ water. By this time they had been carried by the current partly across the river towards the farther shore; and fortunately some Indians were on that side with a canoe, who, on discovering their situation, imme- diately put off to their relief. These friendly natives took them into their canoe, and then taking the capsized canoe in tow, succeeded in gaining the shore. All were safe but the babe; that was missing, but on righting the canoe, it was found to have drifted along with it to the shore, but the vital spark had fled. They were forty miles distant from a civilized habitation, but the Indians kindly proffered to take them into their canoe, and carry them down to Vancouver. Wrapped in their wet blankets, with the corpse of the little infant lying in one part of their canoe, they descended to that place, where they had all the assistance afforded them which sympathy could devise, or their distressed circumstances demand. On Friday, the '34th, they left Vancouver, and on Saturday evening they arrived at the Wallamette, and the following day deposited the body of the infant in the mission burying grounds, Mr. Leslie imf)roving % #« mSTOHY OF* xi I: th<3 occasion by an appropriate discourse founded on Deut. viii. 6: **0, how wonderful in working is our God, and his ways past finding out. " Thus the missionaries were constantly exposed. If they passed from one portion of the country to another, they were obliged to commit themselves in their frail craft, to the treacherous element, or travel by land through hostile tribes of savages. Mr. Grey, of the mission in the interior, made about this time a hair breadth escape. While on his way from the Rocky mountains to Missouri, with one or two white men and a number of Indians, he was attacked by a band of Sioux warriors ; his Indians were all kdled, and himself was twice wounded by musket balls. While he and the white men with him were making their escape on horseback, across a river, the Indians fired at them from the shore, and a ball passed through the hat of Mr. Grey, cutting the hair from the top of his head. The white men escaped with one horse apiece, having been robbed of every thing besides. About the first of September, Rev. Daniel Lee left ^ the Dalls with a party of Indians, to go to the Walla- mette station by land across the Cascade mountains, to ascertain whether it would be practicable to drive back a small band of cattle for the accommodation of the mission farm. Supposing that a week would be the longest time that it would require to perform the jour- ney, he took provisions to last him only during that time ; but in consequence of the extreme diflficuTty of the traveling through the denre thickets, over the high mountains, up and down the precipices, and fording the rapid streams, it required twice as long as he antici- pated. Consequently they consumed all their provisions, and after going hungry for some length of time, they were driven to the necessity of killing a poor, jaded - horse, on the flesh of which they supported themselves till they arrived at the Clakamas, where they procured salmon, having consumed the last morsel of their horse that very day. Not at all discouraged by these diffi- culties, Mr. Lee resolved to drive the cattle through, T TMP. OREGON MISSION. 35 and engaging two men from the settlement to accompany him, he started with his band on the 26th of September. After ten days of excessive labor and fatigue, he arrived safely at Wascopam without loss. This measure for stocking the little farm they had opened at the Balls, was adopted by the missionaries for the purpose of securing, at less expense, the means of subsistence. In the month of December of this year the Rev. D. Leslie had the misfortune of losing his house, and most of his furniture, bedding, clothing, &c., by fire. This loss was the more severely felt, as it was difficult in that new country to replace the articles destroyed. At the close of this year the mission school under the care of Cyrus Shepard, had increased to nearly forty scholars, notwithstanding the fearful mortality that reigned among the children. About one-third of all that had been received up to this period, had died, and most of the remainder were in a sickly condition. At this time Mr. Shepard was obliged to give up the care of the school, in consequence of personal affliction. A swelling appeared on one of his knees, which at first created but little concern, but at length assumed a very alarming aspect. All the medical and surgical skill of the country were expended upon him to no purpose ; the limb was amputated, but it was too late to save life. Death ensued a short time after the operation. In Mr. Shepard the mission lost one of its most valuable mem- bers, a fond wife was bereft of a kind and faithful companion, and two little girls were rendered fatherless. Soon after this event, by an arrangement of the mis- sion, Dr. Elijah White connected with his professional duties, the care of the mission school ; and the business of the various departments proceeded as usual through the winter. Ai the Dalls a great religious excitement prevailed among the Indians through the labors of D. Lee and H. K. W. Perkins. This excitement extended fifty or seventy-five miles along the Columbia river, chiefly among the Wasco and Cnenook Indians, of whom more than one thousand in the course of a few weeks appa- M 36 HISTORY OF ' ]! lit* i ■]■ rently embraced the christian reHgion. Such were the evidences of a genuine change in these Indians, that the missionaries, after witnessing their praying habits for a few weeks, baptized them, and received them formally into the church. They were then formed into classes, and stated preaching was established in the different villages where they resided ; and for the time being the hearts of the missionaries were encouraged, from be- holding the apparently happy success with which their labors were crowned. On the Wallamette also, under the labors of Rev. D. Leslie, a revival of religion took place among the white settlers, the Hawaiians, who were in the employment of the mission, and the Indians connected with the mission school. A number of each class were converted and received into the church. While these things were transpi' 'ng in Oregon, Rev. J. Lee was zealously employed in accomplishing the objects of his visit to the United 8tites. He arrived in the city of New York about the first of November, and on the 14th he was present at a meeting '^f the Mission- ary Board, and stated at length the object of his visit. He urged with much earnestness the imporlaiice of extending the missionary work in Oregon ; and in view of this he plead with grent zeal the necessity of sending to that country a large reinforcement. In his opinion it was essential, for the prosperity of the mission, to sup- ply it with the requisite means to furnish itself with food, buildings, etc. ; and all the necessary implements for husbandry, and mechanical purposes, should be sent out by the Board. To meet all these demands would require a very heavy outlay, and for this and some other reasons, Mr. Lee met with warm opposition from some of the members of the Board, who sincerely doubted the expediency of the measure ; but the superintendent, who had just come from the field of operation, perse- veringly and powerfully urged the claims of the mission, and, sustained by Dr. Fisk, Dr. Bangs and others, finally succeeded in obtaining from the Board all, yea more than he demanded ; for in his opinion but two ministers THE OREGON MISSION. ft were required, but in the estimation of a majority of the Board, if there were to be as many laymen sent out as Mr. Lee called for, two ministers would not be suffi- cient. Accordingly, on the 6th of December, 1838, the Board passed a resolution to send to Oregon five addi- tional missionaries, one physician, six mechanics, four farmers, one missionary steward, and four female teach- ers ; making in all thirty-six adult persons. These were all selected and appointed within a few months, the laymen by Dr. Bangs and Mr. Lee, and the missionaries by the Bishop having charge of the Foreign missions. The appointments took place from various parts of the United States, the New England, New York, Troy, Gene- sec, Illinois, and North Carolina Conferences contributing more or less, to make the numbers of the reinforcement complete. During the summer of 1839, Mr. Lee, at- tended by Wm. Brooks and Thomas Adams, the two Indian boys whom he brought with him, traveled quite extensively through the New England and Middle States, holding missionary meetings in all the important places, and collecting funds for the Oregon mission. His success was unparalleled, and an interest was excited throughout the land amounting to enthusiasm. Crowds thronged to see and hear the pioneer missionary beyond the Rocky mountains, and the converted Indians who accompanied him. Liberal collections were taken up for the Oregon mission in almost every place, and these, with the appropriations of the Board for the purchase of goods, amounted to forty thousand dollars. Furnished with all kinds of tools for agricultural and mechanical purposes, and with the necessary articles for the con- struction of a saw-mill and grist-mill, the great rein- forcement, with Mr. Lee at their head, at length found themselves ready for sea. CHAPTER n. *H hi lii Journal of a voj.vge (rom New York to Oregon — Time and circumstancei of departure — First evening — Last look at the Highlands — Initiatory riten — Great diHiress — Sea-sickneu indescribable — Fourth day — Captain Spaulding — First and second officers — Passengers in the cabin — Character of the expedition — First Sabbath at sea — Police regulations — A rich treat — Centenary meeting — Results — Vessel ships a sea — Wind mcroases — Tremendous gale — North- East trade — Description of the trades — Whale — Allowance of Water — Porpoise — Vessel — Amusing surprise — Astronomy — Northern constellations — Magellanic clouds — Interesting Sabbath — Land, ho ! — Cape Frio — Lighthouse — Splendid scenery — Arrival at Rio de Janeiro — Historical sketch — Don John — Brazil indepen- dent—Don Pedro the lirst — Compelled to abdicate — State of the country — Foreign residents — Religion — City — Buildings — Missionaries — Slavery — Re- fleotions. It was in the evening of the 9th day of October, 1839, that a company of fifty-two persons, sixteen of whom were children, were collected together on the quarter deck of the ship Lausanne, which then lay quietly in the bijght, betwixt the east coast of New Jersey and Sandy Hook. The preceding day had been one of most thrill- ing interest to every person composing that excited, though confiding, group. They had bidden, as they all then supposed, a last adieu to the land of their nativity; and all the endearing ties that bound them to home and friends, had been surrendered. In their hearts burned an intense desire to become the instruments of intro- ducing the blessings of religion and civilization, to the benighted heathen in a foreign land; and for this purpose they had resolved upon braving the dangers of the deep, and to endure the diflficulties and deprivations incident to a residence in a heathen land. It fell to the lot of the writer to be associated with this self-denying band, to mingle with them while they lingered on their native shore, as if loth to make the sacrifice, to witness them, as, at the given signal, they VOYAGE TO ORKiiON. 'hastened to commit themselves to that frail bark, which was destined to become their prison home for so many tedious days and stormy nights, and, with them, to share the perils of a voyage of more than twenty-two thousand miles. Before we take our de[)arture from Sandy Hook, the reader will expect to be entertained with some of the [)rincipal events which took place the day preceding the evening on which these voluntary exiles were for the first time assembled on the deck of the Lausanne. The morning rose beautiful and serene, with not a cloud to obscure the rising sun, and not a breath of wind to ruffle the surface of the waters. It was at nine o'clock of this day, when, by a previous arrangement, the mission family, attended by their beloved friends of New York and vicinity, assembled at White Hall Dock, at the foot of Broadway, where lay the steamboat Her- cules, which had been engaged to take the passengers to the Lausanne, which then lay in East River, and then to tow the ship down through the Narrows, into the vicinity of Sandy Hook. Two hundred and fifty per- sons, who had endeared themselves to our hearts by their kindness and solicitude for our welfare, accom- panied us on the steamboat, when we embarked, and among them were the Rev. N. Bangs, D. D., and the Rev. Dr. Anderson, the former being the secretary of the Missionary Society of the M. E. C, and the latter, the secretary of the A. B. C. F. M. It was precisely fifteen minutes past ten o'clock, when the signal was given for the boat to leave the wharf^ and, in a few moments, we were along side the Lausanne, while the multitude that lined the shore, were invoking many blessings on our enterprise, and by words and signs were bidding us a last farewell. The ship was immediately fastened to the boat, and we were speedily gliding down the beautiful harbor of New York, first looking back upon the city, whose hundred gilded steeples were flashing in the sun light, and then upon immense shipping, crowded for miles up and down tne East and North rivers; now looking for I 40 VOYAGE TO OREGON. lij a moment upon Castle Garden, Governor's Island, the North Carolina seventy-four, Brooklyn, the Fort, and then upon the Jersey shore. Long Island coast, Staten Island, with all its delightful scenery; and every thing within the range of our vision was gazed upon with so much the more interest, as they belonged to our own native country, and, in all probability, we were to see them no more. The time that elapsed from our leaving the wharf, till the steamboat left us to return, was full of deep and lively interest. The conversation was fraught with the most intense feeling and anxiety, which were manifested ever and anon, by floods of tears, and expressions of the most ardent wishes for our welfare and success. The hymns that were sung were remarkably appropriate, and tended to increase the flame already burning on the altar of every heart. The religious services, conducted by Dr. Bangs, Dr. Anderson, and the Rev. Mr. Davis, were peculiarly solemn and affecting, and closed by the baptism of the infant son of the Rev. J. P. Richmond, who was christened " Oregon," the name of the country to which we were bound. While yet the impressions which these services had made upon all present were the most lively and tender, it was announced that the two vessels must separate. At this time all the missiona- ries, with their attendants, were on the steamboat. We had passed the Narrows, and were rapidly approaching Sandy Hook, when the parting scene commenced. Now parents and children, brothers and sisters, and friends and acquaintances, embraced each other for the last time on earth, and amidst tears, prayers and farewells, the missionaries passed from the boat to the deck of the Lausanne. The grapplings were immediately cast off, and the Hercules sailed gracefully around us, while from each deck the emblems of purity and affection, snow white handkerchiefs, we^-e fluttering in the air, until by a point of Long Island, at the Narrows, the vessel's were hidden from each other's sight. Though there was no wmd to favor us, an ebb tide carried us slowly down to the usual anchorage, inside of VOYAGE TO OREGON. 41 Jandy Hook, where we were glad to have a little time [to arrange our cabin and state room affairs, before going [to sea. • The evening of the day of embarkation was serene [and peaceful, and after the stirring events of the day had been rehearsed by the passengers assembled on the deck [of our noble vessel, all repaired quietly to their berths, and, after a good night's rest, arose on the morning of [the 10th of October, in good health and spirits, for their I voyage. At half past six o'clock in the morning, we [weighed anchor, and spreading our canvass to a gentle (Western breeze, were carried majestically past the Hook, and were soon tossed upon the waves of the broad ! Atlantic. The passengers were all immediately called upon to 'perform the initiatory rites to which all have to submit, who, for the first time, invade the dommions of Neptune. This, however, did not prevent iiiany from taking a last look of the Highlands of Never Sink, which disappeared in the smoky distance at three o'clock in the afternoon of the first day. In passing through this terrible ordeal of initiation, inere are occasional intervals of relaxation, and on Sunday, the 13th, the "North-Easter," which had been blowing from the first day out, lulled ; a calm suc- ceeded, and operated like a charm upon the sick inmates of the Lausanne ; for all so far recovered as to be able to present themselves on the quarter deck. As we are now on the fourth day out fairly under way, having lost sight of land, and experienced one severe storm, and, for the first time since leaving Sandy Hook, collected on the deck of the vessel, the reader will expect a more particular account of the company to which, collectively, he has already been introduced. Embracing the ofllicers and crew, there were seventy- five souls on board, fifty-three of whom were passengers. The ship was commanded by Capt. Spaulding, who had been employed by the owners, Farnham & Fry, in view of his qualifications, to take charge of such an expedition, for so long a voyage. Twenty years' expe- rience as master of a vessel, had established the captain's 42 VOYAGE TO OREGON. reputation as a skillful navigator, which, in connexion writh his general kindness to the passengers, and his ^ efforts to make them as comfortable as their crowded condition on the vessel would admit, proves that the selection, if not the best that could have been made, was as good as could have been reasonably expected. The first and s'cond mates, though wanting in strict morality, were excellent seamen, and well understood the business of navigation. The second mate, Mr. Coffin, had performed eight voyages around Cape Horn. The crew were composed of English, Americans, Irish, Germans, Danes, and Swedes. This variety was selected, as the captain said, because among such a crew it is less difficult to preserve order, than it is with a crew exclusively Americans. Finding ourselves thus officered and manned, and witnessing the management of our vessel through one protracted storm, we concluded that, extraordinaries excepted, we should be conducted in safety to the land of our destination. The passengers in the cabin, embracing children, numbered fifty-four. Of these eight were ministers of the gospel ; seven of whom, namely, Jason Lee, J. H. Frost, A. F. Waller, W. W. Kone, G. Hines, L. H. Judson, J. L. Parrish and J. P. Richmond, were con- nected with the missionary expedition to Oregon ; and one, the Rev. Sheldon Dibble, was a Presbyterian mis- sionary, on his way to his field of labor, in the Sandwich Islands. We had one physician. Dr. J. L. Babcock, who had been appointed to take care of the health of the members of the mission, and all the remainder had been connected with the enterprise, by the appointment of the Missionary Board of the M. E. Church, as farm- ers, mechanics, and teachers, to labor for the promotion of religion and civilization, in the territory of Oregon. With the secular department of the work, two of the above named preachers, L. H. Judson, and J. L. Parrish, were also connected. »,. - The persons composing this, the largest expedition of the kind that had ever sailed from our shores, presented T VOYAGE TO OREGON. a great variety in consequence of the extensive range of country from which they h' d been collected. Coming together from Massachusetts, Connecticut, New York, Maryland, North Carolina, Illinois, and Missouri, and bringing with them many of the different peculiarities of these several portions of our Union, it would not be surprising, confined as they were for so long a time, under circumstances pecuHarly calculated to "try men's souls" if, from time to time, they came so far in collision with each other's views and prejudices, as to produce a momentary rupture. One striking trait, however, as difficult to exhibit as it is excellent in its influence, ap- peared in the conduct of the company huddled together in the cabin of the Lausanne. It was this ; a disposition to sacrifice self, for the promotion of the common weal. This excellency of character was fullv manifested on the part of the ladies, of whom we had nineteen on board. r^-^'-^^'' : >■, ; \ - . • ■. ■•■. r , Dismissing this general description of the company, I proceed to give a few of the incidents of our voyage, first, assuring the reader that long and tedious descrip- tions of the management and evolutions of the vessel, the peculiar technicalities of navigation, the clewing, handling, or reefing of sails, and the various phenomena which belc -ig exclusively to the avocation of those who *' go down to the sea in ships and do business on the great waters," will be studiously avoided. The seaman's vocabulary constitutes an unintelligible jargon to all landsmen ; and as this Journal is designed for the benefit of such as are not accustomed to the seas, this vocabu- lary will not be resorted to, except where it may be thought necessary to express the subject in a clearer light, or to render a description more full and explicit. Waiving all such explanations hereafter, and continuing directly on our voyage, in the regular course of events, I come now to give a description of our first Sabbath at sea. Though a storm had been raging for days, yet the Sabbath brought with it almost a perfect calm. In con- sequence of the sickness of the passengers no arrange- 44 VOYAroduced betwixt the cold and heated air, the former exerting itself to supplant the latter, and vice versa. Second, the diurnal revolution of the earth on its axis. [f it were not for these daily revolutions, these winds .'ould blow direct from the poles to the equator, whereas their current now runs diagonally with that line. There is also a current in the ocean, which runs with the trade ands, and is evidently produced by the revolutions of the earth. These two causes combine to produce that 3ffularity in these winds, without which it would be limcult, if not impossible, to navigate the Atlantic and [Pacific oceans. These important currents are called trade winds, because they are more favorable to com- jmerce, or trade, than all other winds that blow. In the afternoon of this day, the passengers were [thrown into an excitement by the announcement, by the captain, of **a whale along side." No one had ever seen one of these monsters of the deep, and of course there was a general rush to the bulwarks, to get a [glimpse of him before he should disappear. Even those who were still confined to their berths, I by sea sickness, must be assisted on deck, to have a view of the whale. There were two of them, and they played around the vessel for an hour, and occasionally showed the entire length of their huge forms, above the surface of the water, thus giving all an opportunity to satisfy their curiosity concerning the largest of the inhabitants of the . ean. On the firing of a gun, they instantly disappeared. On the 19th, we were in the latitude of Monrovia, on the western coast of Africa, and within three hundred and fifty miles of that place. This is our nearest approach to r. {^^ 60 VOYAUU TU OREUON. ;:j?- . - * the continent of Africa. In these lutitudeH vessels usually cxpericncje heuvy fullM of niin, so as to he ahle to reple- nish all their empty wjit(!r casks; however, we realized hut little, and most of our exhausted (^asks remained dry. This suhjected us to the in(;onvenience of hein^ thrown upon an allowance of water, which was a pre- caution the (*a))tain said was necessary to enter into, in order U> make our water hold out, till we should rea<'li the p.)rt of Rio de Janeiro. We W(^re here relieved from the monotony of our voyage, which hegan to he quite disagreeahlt!, by u number of incidents always interesting at sea, ancf always described in the journals of voyagers. The first was the ajjpcarance ol an im- mense school of porpoises. There must have been tens of thousands of them, as they appeared to cover hundreds of acres. They continued around the vessel for some time, lea[)ing and bounding high out of the water in every direction. They are a warm blooded fish, and leap out of the water for the purpose of breathing. They are from three to five feet long, and weigh from one hundred and fifty to three hundred pounds. The second was, the l)eing spoken by two French sloops of war. We had seen several vessels since leaving port, but none had approached near us, until the 21st of November, when, early in the morning, a French sloop of war, of twenty-four guns, came dashing on our stern, as if she intended to run us down. The stars and stripes were immediately flying from our spanker yard, to show Monsieur who we wtire. In response, the French colors were soon seen, streaming in the wind. After manccu- vering a little on our stern, she finally passed us to the windward within a f(jw rods, presenting a remarkably fine appearance. Tlie other vessel referred to was a sloop of eighteen guns, and spoke us on the 23d. She first appeared far to the windward, but bore down towards us, and fell on our stern about three miles otK After chasing us for several hours she finally succeeded in coming along side to the leeward, and, after we examined each other for a half hour or more, and passed VOYAUE TO OHEMON. 51 ihrou^Mi with the UHual Hulutatioim of Hiiowin^ tlio r.olnrn ot' «mr rrH|)(3<;tiv < 54 VOYAGE TO OREGON. benefits of the north-east and south-east trade winds, and second, to avoid being driven by these winds and the currents of the ocean, to the northward of Cape St Rogue, the easternmost point of land on the coast of Brazil. All vessels bound to the south of Cape St. Rogue pursue nearly the same track, and cross the equator between the twentieth and twenty-third degrees of west longitude. / '^^ '^^^ '^ wi^n?- Early in the morning of the 8th of December, the cry of "Land, ho!" brought most of the passengers immediately to the deck. The captain had remarked the evening previous, that we should see land in the morning to the north-east of us, if the wind continued in the same direction, which proved to be the case ; and the high bluffs of Cape Frio (cold cape) appeared in full view about twenty-five miles off. The sight of land was hailed with the utmost joy, it having been fifty-nine days since the high lands of Wever Sink, the last land we saw, were hidden in the dim distance. As we pro- ceeded down towards Rio, the coast . presented a grand and picturesque appearance, not vastly dissimilar to that of the mountains, as seen from the deck of a steamboat on the Hudson river. The day was calm, and the sky overcast with clouds, and many of the mountains reared their lofty heads above the strata of the lower clouds, so that these were seen lowering around the mountains, and presenting the appearance of vast quantities of smoke, rolling down their apparently smooth and conical sides. Our eyes being once more privileged with be- holding land, though at a distance, our attention was again called to the solemnities of the holy Sabbath. Monday, the 9th, we were hovering around the en- trance of the harbor of Rio de Janeiro. A slight breeze from land prevented us from proceeding directly into the harbor, and this gave us an opportunity to contem- Klate the scenery of the shore. The preceding night ad been one of unusual darkness, occasioned oy the dense fog by which we were enveloped ; but this ren- dered the appearance of the revolving light, which came peering through the midnight gloom from the distant isle, still mors delightful. '«■■ \. VOYAGi: TO OREGON. 55 As the nun approached the meridian, and dissipated the mists of the morning, the land zephyr died away, and a gentle breeze from the ocean filled our already expanded sails, wafting us directly towards the harbor. As we approached the shore, the scenery presented to our view was beautifully grand, beyond description. On our left, the *' Sugar Loaf" mountain reared its lofty summit, to the height of eight hundred feet, sloping on the side towards the water, but perpendicular on the opposite; also, the island of serpentine rock, elevated several hundred feet, with the light-house resting on its top, and " Redonda," perfectly conical in its formation, being about fifty rods in diameter at its base, and rising more than five hundred feet; while, about ten miles in the distance, appeared a majestic mountain, whose cloud- capped summit towered to the height of three thousand feet above the ocean, and seeming to look down con- temptuously on every thing beneath. It is called the " Parrot's feeak." The main shore is v>ery broken, some parts of it being elevated far above the rest, while the huge "crags" on their rugged summits, appear to frown down upon the agitated waters, which dash harmlessly against their base. On our right, the mountainous coast could be distinctly seen the distance of sixty miles, to (Jape Frio; while on our left, to a distance, if possible, still greater, pile after pile of huge, massy rocks were thrown together in the wildest confusion, rising thou- sands of feet above the level of the ocean, and, as they receded from us, appearing less and less, until, in the dim distance, they were lost from our sight. These, together with a view of the imperial city of Rio de Janeiro, lying quietly in the bosom of the bay of St. Janarius, conspired to give variety to the splendid pano- rama, by which, on entering the harbor, we found our- selves encircled. The grandeur and sublimity of the scene were worthy of the pencil of the most skillful artist, and truly enchanting to the lover of nature; and it was with the most thrilling emotions of delight, that we gazed upon the romantic and picturesque scenery^ before us. As we drew near the snore, the mountains 50 VOYAOB TO OREGON. lining the entrance of the harbor, lost the sterile ap- pearance which they had presented from a distance, be- ing changed, by the beautiful verdure which covered their summits, into a delightful green. The valleys between the mountains were clothed with luxuriant evergreens, and here and there a round elevation pre- sented, in beautiful variety, a few cocoa-nut trees, which were scattered sparsely over them. Soon our attention was invited to animate nature. At the mouth of the channel, leading into the bay and harbor of Rio, is a very strong fortification, and the heads of armed men could be seen above the ramparts as we passed. We were hailed from this fort, as also from an armed vessel Iving at a distance. From another fort, still nearer the city, a man bawled out, through a speaking- trumpet, requiring us to proceed no farther, but to bear off to the right and come to anchor, which we immedi- ately obeyed, although it subjected us to the inconve- nience of rowing one mile and a half, to gain the shore. It was two o'clock, p. m., of the 9th, when we came to anchor, and the rest of the day was spent in receiving those visits from government officers, which are required previous to their admitting any on shore. The gentlemen who visited us were intelligent and affable, and, coming from a Roman Catholic government, were quite asto- nished to see so many priests on board, especially when they were informed that they all had wiv?s. On the morning of the 10th, the captain, with six of the passengers, went ashore. We were, however, re- quired by the government, to pass along side an armed schooner, which was stationed in the harbor, for the purpose of giving them an opportunity to examine our baggage, to see that we had no contraband goods in our possession, which very unceremonious process, we were informed, we must submit to, as well when we returned from the shore to the vessel, as in passing from the vessel to the shore. As we were to lie here a number of days, we looked upon this custom-house arrangement as imposing upon us a useless and disagreeable task, fmmeaiately on landing, we proceeded to the mercantile 1 I VOYAGE TO OREGON. , H - . t establishment of Gardiner & Campbell^ who are English residents. Gardiner had formerly resided some time in the city of New York. Here we were soon met by the Rev. Justin Spaulding, who had resided in the place for throe years, as a missionary of the Methodist E. Church, and from whom, in connection with his family, and the family of his colleague, the Rev. D. P. Kidder, (who himself was absent on an exploring tour to the north,) we met with a most cordial reception. We found them commodiously situated, in a large building, well furnished for their accommodation, and located in a retired part of the city of Rio de Janeiro, about one mile from the place of landing. Mr. Spaulding assured us that, though he could not furnish the whole company with beds, yet his rooms were open, and he should expect us to occupy them freely, by night and by day, whife we remained in the place. And, indeed, all that christian love and kindness could do, these missionaries cheerfully per- formed, to render our stay with them happy and inte- resting. The splendid city of Rio de Janeiro, which is the capital of the Empire of Brazil, presents to voyagers to this portion of the world, an object of considerable interest. A better location for a commercial city can scarcely be imagined. It is surrounded by a country of vast extent, of inexhaustible fertility, and equal in re- sources to the most enlarged expectations, ^♦s harbor is one of the best in the world. The entrai.^e to it is narrow, though sufficiently deep to admit vessels of the largest size to pass with perfect safety, and then ex- tending out into a bay thirty miles long, and fifteen broad, and being favored almost every day with both land and sea breezes, which enable vessels readily to pass in and out, being of suitable depth for all sizes of vessels, and surrounded by mighty mountain barriers, which break off the winds on every side. It is unques- tionably one of the safest and most commodious anchor- aces on the whole face of the globe. With these natural aavantages to favor her, we might expect that Rio woul^ have experienced a rapid growth from the time when 8 i! i ;il I f i V 1 f 58 ^ VOVAGE TO OREGON. Portugal planted her first colony on the borders of that lovely bay; but a mistaken policy, developed in many periods of her history, has tended greatly to retard her progress; and, consequently, she continued compara- tively small until Don John, the- Portuguese king, left the mother country, and removed to his Brazilian terri- tories, and built his palace within the precincts of this city. This circumstance transpired in 1803. At the present time the city is one of considerable extent. It contains one hundred and fifty thousand inha- bitants, of various nations, and of every shade of com- plexion. Here are some native Portuguese, more native Brazilians, a few French, Africans, Jews, Americans, and about one thousand English. The city lies in the form of a parallelogram, and some of the streets present a splendid appearance. The houses are principally built with stone, and are covered with tiles. Some of the buildings, and especially the royal palace, and some of the churches and convents, are splendid specimens of architecture ; but a great share of the city, however, appears like a vast assemblage of state prisons. Rio de Janeiro suffers much in point of beauty and cleanliness, when compared with the cities of many of our Eastern and Middle States. It presents an antiquated and sombre aspect, without that appear- ance of life and animation, which characterize the cities of the Anglo-Americans. The religious state of the city is truly deplorable. The Roman Catholic religion here exists in all its name- less mummeries and superstitions, " Strictly speaking," said a Protestant missionary who has resided three years in the city, "there is no religion here." This same missionary informed me that of all the people with whom he had become acquainted by three year's resi- dence among them, there were but two that he had the least reason to suppose were christians, in the proper sense of the word. But, if true religion consists in the erection of splendid cathedrals, and in decorating them with solden images, and the lambent fiame of huge wax candles constantly VOYAGE TO OREGON. 60 burning, and with hangings of the finest embroidery; or, if it consists in convents, filled with priests and nuns, with all their attendant ceremonies and image worship, then Rio de Janeiro contains more than any other city I have ever visited. But, if it consists in a consecration of soul and body to God, and a life corresponding with the gospel of Christ, then, of the tens of thousands of Rio, who bear the christian name, how few are pious! how few will be saved ! ! But signs of a better state of things begin to show themselves in this bigoted city. The English residents have a minister among them, and have recently built a church, in which they statedly worship after the Protestant form. The Rev. J. Spaul- ding and the Rev. D. P. Kidder, of whom mention has been made, were laboring with energy and zeal, in the cause of their Divine Master, both in preaching the gospel and in the circulation of bibles and tracts. These missionaries were frequently encouraged in their labors of love, by those evidences which appeared from time to time, that their efforts were not altogether in vain. An hidividual, through the influence of a tract, became dissatisfied with Popery, and came to Mr. Spaulding and earnestly enquired what he must do to be saved. Sub- sequently he partook of the sacrament of the Lord's supper with Protestants; but the Romish priests, having ascertained this, determined, at all hazards, to put a stop to his attending Protestant meetings. Accordingly, one morning, when this gentleman arose, he discovered a paper which had been pushed into his room under the door, during the night. He took up the paper and read in substance as follows: " Unless you desist from attend- ing these Protestant associations, you may expect to find yourself stabbed." This circumstance drove him almost to despair, but subsequently he indulged a hope in Christ, and discarded the Church of Rome ; but, from fear of falling a victim to the madness of bigoted and persecuting priests, his intercourse with the Protestants was carried on with the utmost secrecy. Thus the true leaven was working in spite of all the efforts made by f 00 VOYAGE TO OBEOON. ~M the Papists to suppress it, and it was hoped that it would continue to work until the whole lump was leavened. The slav^ery of Rio is one of the most prominent characteristics which present themselves to the traveler, on arriving at this place. And, to those of us who had never seen slavery in its practical effects, it was "enough to make one's heart bleed," to witn' s? these ill-fated sons of Ham driven about bv their cruci task-masters, and compelled to perform their tasks in a state of almost perfect nudity, exposed to the burning rays of a vertical sun. As cruel, however, as Brazilian slavery appears to be at first sight, there are some mitigating circumstances connected with it, when compared with the slavery of some other countries. Unlike the laws in the Southern States of our Republic, which give the master the same control over his slaves that he has over any kind of pro- perty, those of Brazil guarantee to the slave a number of important privileges. First, the slave is required to labor for his master from morning until two o'clock, which is the business portion of the day ; and the re- mainder of the day he has to himself. Second, the slave is entitled, by law, to two days in each week to employ as he sees fit. These two provisions give the slave nearly one lialf of the time, and the property he accumu- lates, when thus at liberty, belongs to himself. He is compelled, however, to procure his own food, without expense to his master. If, by industry or good fortune, he succeeds in obtaining his freedom, which is not an unfrequent occurrence, he is immediately entitled to all the privileges of a freeman, and his offspring are not liable to be enslaved. But, notwithstanding these exte- nuating circumstances connected with Brazilian slavery, it is a system of cruelty and oppression. The naked appearance of the slaves, the ponderous burdens they are compelled to bear, their frequent flagellations, and when worn out with fatigue, their lying around the streets and under the walls of buildings like cattle, and at other times like horses dragging around their drays, unmerci- fully loaded, all had a tendency deeply to excite our VOYAGE TO OREGON. 61 r, sympathies for suffering humanity, and to increase our abhorrence for this system of cruelty and blood. It was cheering, while beholding some of the worst evils of the system, to indulge the reflection that the time will come when slavery must be abolished throughout the world. Incompatible with civil and religious liberty, and opposed to the doctrine of Christ, it must feel the paralyzing in- fluence of those benevolent principles which are destined to destroy the pride and tyranny of the human heart, and to induce man to acknowledge in his fellow man, an equal and a brother. Thus it ^pears, that, while there are a few. things in and about Kio which are calculated to excite our admiration, there are many which are truly deplorable. Enveloped in a midnight gloom, forgetful of her God, and bound with chains of bigotry and super- stition, Rio de Janeiro is ir'<^^cd a valley of the shadow of death. But the beauty and grandeur of the natural scenery by which she is environed, the salubrity of the climate, the spontaneous growth of the most delicious fruits, with all the natural advantages by which she is distinguished, in connexion with the pure religion of the meek and lowly Jesus, would constitute her an earthly paradise. ' ■■ 1 I ..# I •%.'■'-.- 1 ■: Vi;, '■>- J.^T^; . f . .■•H((j If ■''aY^ . 'Si '. -.i\i ,;. '.M* t ' ! ' ■- ' * CHAPTER m. : Journal continued — Departure from Rio — Rev. Mr. Spauldtaf — French Fleet — Violent Morm — Flying jib boom carried away — Dinner lost — Storm abates — Christmas — Heat — Doubting Cape Horn — Gale nineteen days — Under bare poles — Prosperity — Sight of land — Brig Andes — Arrival at Valparaiso — Snwil pox — Danger — Description of the city — Its civil and political condi- tion — Religion — Superstition, illustrated by amusing incidents — Protestantism — Importance of Valparaiso — Adventures round about the city — > Great dis> erepaney — Appropriate nams. The time fixed upon for leaving Rio, to proceed on our voyage, was Saturday morning, the 14th of December. Accordingly^ at that time, we were all prepared for weighing anchor ; but a strong south wind commenced blowing directly into the harbor, and detained us during the whole day. In the mornmg, the Rev. Mr. Spaulding came on board, and continued with us for several hours, during which he gave us a very interesting address. He also gave a short account of the mission in Rio, in which he related some striking anecdotes, illustrative of the success with which his labors had been crowned. Before leaving, he commended us to God and to the word of His g^'ace, in fervent prayer, and then, bidding us an affectionate farewell, lowered himself by a rope into a small skiff, which lay under the lee of the Lau- sanne, and was conveyed back to the shore. The season was one of deep interest, and kindred feelings palpitated every heart. And, as this fellow missionary left us to immure himself again in what is worse than heathenism itself, we could but invoke the God of battles to prepare his way, and sustain him with omnipotent grace, that he might witness more abundant success attending his la- bors, and finally see the man of sin fall to rise no more. The south wind had abated the next morning, and a land breeze was favorable for our leaving the harbor. ill.: ; i VOYAGE TO ORKOON. 63 Consequently, after the customary visits by government officers, we raised the anchor, and spreading our sails again to the wind, bid adieu to the dominions of Don Pedro the second, and were soon tossed upon old ocean's billows, with our vessel's prow directed towards the cape of storms. The same morning, a French fleet of war of eight sail, weighed anchor, and passed majestically out of the harbor before us. This fleet was destined io join the blockading squadron before Buenos Ayres, and to bom- bard the city, provided the United Provinces did not comply with the imperious demands of the French. The first day out we had a violent storm ; the sea was very rough, and nearly every one of the passengers was called again to suffer with sea sickness. In the course of the storm the vessel encountered a number of mountain waves. At one time, through the carelessness of the helmsman, she plunged her bows so far into the water that her jib and flying jib went completely under, and when she rose, her flying jib boom was carried away, and the sails were both rent into shreds from top to bot- tom. A table was set for dinner in the captain s cabin, and all the dishes were thrown clear from the table into the steward's locker, and dashed io pieces. The shock given to the vessel was exceedingly violent, and caused it to tremble in every joint. This was on Sunday. The following day the wind abated, and, changing a few points, became more favorable. For a number of sub- sequent days, a fine breeze wafted us rapidly onwards, and on Christmas day, at 12 o'clock, m*, we were in latitude thirty-nine degrees, thirty minutes, south. This was the warmest Christmas we had ever seen, the thermometer ranging at eighty in the shade. Rev. Jason Lee delivered, on the occasion of Christmas, an appropriate discourse, on the subject of the advent of Christ Wednesday, January 8th, 1840. For a number of days past we have been favored with a prosperous v/ind, and are now within four degrees of Cape Horn. Thus far, our way has been remarkably prospered. The ! : ^•^ , 64 VOYAGE TO OREGON. weather is now very calm, with a gentle breeze from the north-west ; but we are approaching the region of storms, and can scarcely hope to double the Cape with the delightful weather we are now experiencing. Friday, 10th. According to our expectations, the slumbering winds were aroused, and we began to expe- rience the difficulties of doubling Cape Horn. About 9 o'clock, A. M., a severe gale came down upon us with the most threatening violence. Every stitch of canvass was immediately taken in, and for more than forty-eiglit hours wc lay under the bare poles, the very sport of both wind and water. The gale was said by the captain to be one of the most violent he had ever experienced. On the 15th, the wind* had so far abated that we were able again to carry sail, but found by an observation at noon, that we had been driven several degrees out of our course. Monday, 27th. For many days past we have been baffled with contrary winds, and indeed this is the nine- teenth day since we have had any thing like a fair breeze. Our course has been west, but we have been compelled to run almost every point of compass, and the most of the time to contend with violent gales. In consequence of head winds we were carried nearly to the sixty-first degree of south latitude ; and Cape Horn being in the fifty-sixth, we were nearly three hundred miles south of th3 Cape. By an observation this day we found our longitude to be sixty-eight degrees, twelve minutes, which is a few miles west of the Diegoes. We have therefore left the Atlantic ocean, and are now on the waters of the Pacific. It is not common for vessels to be driven so far to the south in doubling the Cape. Perhaps the greater part pass round within sight of the Cape or the Diegoes ; but the only land discernible from our vessel, in the vicinity of the Cape, was Statea Land, which presented its lofty summit to our view the day before we experienced the commencement of the Cape Horn gales. Though it was midsummer, in the southern hemisphere, while we were doubling the Cape, yet at sixty-one degrees we found it excessively cold. Hail VOYAGE TO OREGON. 65 frequently fell on deck, and though no icebergs appeared in sight, It was judged, from the coldness of the atmos- phere, that they were at no great distance. At this season of the year, in this latitude, the sun rises a few minutes after three and sets a few minutes before nine, and daylight scarcely disappears during the whole night. We have to proceed but seven degrees farther south, and the day will be one month long, at the sun's farthest declination south. During our long detention here, by successive storms, we were frequently entertained by the appearance of the huge monsters of the deep, and a vast variety of the feathered tribes of the ocean. Whiles, lashing the briny element, and spouting the huge spray high into the air ; porpoises, gamboling over the waves like flocks of ante- lopes over the western plains ; the auk or penffuin, which is a link connecting the feathered with the finny tribe, with the albatros, stormy petrel, cape pigeon and many others, appeared from time to time around us, in large numbers, contributing much to amuse us, and diverting our attention even from the successive tempests, that howled around us for nineteen days. On the 28 th, Providence again favored us with a fair wind, and enabled us to direct our course to the north, and for several days we were carried forward at the rate of seven and nine knots an hour. On the 3d of February, we found ourselves off the western entrance of the Straits of Magellan. Our passage round the Cape was a stormy one for the season of the year, but the winds and waves were under the control of the Almighty, who seemed to smile on our enterprise, and interpose in our behalf while naviga- ting the tempestuous waters of the southern ocean. We now steered our course for Valparaiso, on the coast of Chili, where we intended to take in water and other supplies. Our passage up the coast was barren of incident worthy of special notice, until the morning of the 18th, when our eyes were once more delighted with the sight of land, the coast of Chili, about forty miles 3* li \ . VOYAGE TO OREGON. south of Valparaiso Head, presenting its dark outlines thirty miles distant over our starboard bow. The wind died away as we approached the shore, and we were consequently unable to proceed directly into port. A number of vessels appeared near us, bound to the same place, with one of which we had a friendly interview. She proved to be the brig Andes, of Liver- pool, forty-eight days from Sydney, New South Wales. We had a shower of rain, with lightning, at ten o'clock, and the rest of the day were becalmed within ten miles of land. A dead swell bore us slowly towards the shore, and in the evening we could distinctly hear the surf of the ocean, breaking against the rocks. The captain manifested great anxiety, lest we might be dashed to pieces on the iron bound coast. At twelve o'clock at night a light breeze sprung up, and enabled us to remove to a safer distance from the snore. The following morn- ing, after the rising sun had dissipated the fog that enveloped the shore, the high bluffs, called Valparaiso Head, appeared directly before us. A fresh ocean breeze sprang up, and bore us directly towards the harbor, and on our rieht appeared a beautiful bay. which washed a broad and delightful sandy beach. Variety was given to the prospect, by the appearance of strange looking birds on the wing, passing from one side of the bay to the other. At noon we rounded Valparaiso Head, and the city, harbor, and shipping were spread out in full view before us. We dropped our anchor half a mile distant from the landing, and were immediately boarded by government officers, who examined us before permitting us to go on shore. A number of American gentlemen also came on board, and showed themselves remarkably polite and friendly. They informed us that the small pox had made terrible havoc among the inhabitants of the place, especially the natives, but that it had, in a measure, subsided. They said that all the foreigners who had been vaccinated, had entirely escaped, and that they did not apprehend there would be any danger in our going ashore, and purchasing what* VOYAGE TO OREGON, 9f ever necessaries we desired ; that there would be as much danger in taking the disease from those who came v'^ board from the shore, as from going on shore our- selves. Accordingly we came to the conclusion to act as though no fatal epidemic prevailed in Valparaiso, except that, on goinj ashore, we would avoid those places where the disease continued to rage most, espe- cially the hospital, presuming that, in our case also, vaccination would prove a safeguard against contracting the disease. Having attended to the preliminaries, a number of the passengers accompanied the captain on shore, and, upon landing, found the city of Valparaiso much as it appears to be on entering the harbor, very forbidding in its aspects. The streets are generally narrow, and badly paved, and the houses are generally low, being but one story. This is designed to preserve them from the destructive effects of the frequent earth- quakes, which take place along the Chilian coast. The city lies around a beautiful bay which constitutes its harbor, and is about one mile and a half long, and varying much in breadth in consequence of the moun- tains behind the city, which, in some places, extend down nearly to the shore of the bay. These mountains have been dug away at their base, so as to afford room for two or three tiers of buildings back from the shore. This space being filled, the inhabitants retired back on the sides of the mountains, where there are a number of contracted plains, which form eligible sites for building. Here a number of gentlemen, mostly foreigners, have erected their fine cottages, and live in princely style. But in the hill part of the city, as well as near the shore, there is but little regularity or beauty. The number of inhabitants is variously estimated from eight to twelve thousand, among which are fifty Americans, and some English, Germans and French. The foreigners are by far the most interesting part of the population, and do nearly all the heavy business of the place. The civil and political condition of the country was any thing but prosperous. The people were frequently breaking cut in rebellion • the city was under martial li i ot VOYAGE TO OREGON. law, and the whole country seemed to be verging to- wards a state of anarchy. It was the time of theii election, and such was the excitement that prevailed, particularly among the peasantry, that it was extremely dangerous for foreigners to go far back from the city, as they were generally taken to be the enemies of the Republic, and were looked upon, by the Chili^ps, as theii lawful prey. Robberies and murders were frequent and from the weakness and inefficiency of the govern- ment, were committed with impunity. However, the Chilians are quite partial to Americans, because they are citizens of a sister Republic. The religion of the country is Romanism, which here exhibits itself in all its principles of intolerance and per- secution, as well as in its superstitions and bigotry. A circumstance or two, illustrative of the ignorance and superstition of the Chilian Papists, I will relate. At the time of the great earthquake, in 1822, which nearly destroyed the city of Conception, and greaily injured Valparaiso, when the shock was first felt in the latter, a large number of the inhabitants fled for safety to the Catholic cathedral, under the impression that Heaven would interpose in behalf of the sacred edifice, and pre- vent its destruction. To render themselves still more secure against the danger which threatened them, they took down the venerable images of St. Peter and St. Paul, from the places they had occupied from time immemorial, and placed them as a guard at the door of the cathedral. The principal seat of the earthquake being in the sea, the water rushed from its bed into the city ; the foundatio. ^ of the city trembled ; the earth heaved with convulsions, and the cathedral, with one tremendous crash, tumbled into a heap of ruins, and five hundred persons were either killed by the falling walls and timbers of the building, or drowned by the flood of waters that deluged the place. The shock sub- sided ; the waters returned to their place ; and the next day the images of Peter and Paul were found floating in the harbor. The indignant survivors took the image of Peter, he being the more guilty of the two, and VOYAGE fo OREGON. 60 perforated a hole through his body, and pinned him upon the beach, at low water mark, as a punishment for his cowardice, and for deserting tbem in the hour of danger. As he abandoned them to so awful a calamity, they abandoned him to the fury of the waves. Although the laws of Chili do not tolerate any religion but Romanism, yet there is a minister of the English church in the city, who is permitted to preach to the foreign residents without molestation. They will not permit a Protestant to preach in the language of the country; if one should attempt it, he would immediately be driven from their coast, or forfeit his hfe. As a mat- ter of course, there is but little chance for missionary operations among the people, except so far as the English, American and German residents are concerned. Among these an intelligent, prudent, and devoted missionary, might render himself abundantly useful. But the time will come, notwithstanding the fierce opposition that now rages against Protestantism, when the vain mumme- ries of ropery must pass away, and the darkness that now shrouds the people with a midnight gloom, shall be succeeded by the light of the glorious Sun of righteous- ness, which shall rise upon this, benighted country with healing in his wings. The importance of Valparaiso lies in its eligible situa- tion for commerce, it being the entrepot for a great portion of the Republic of Chili. The high hills or mountains, which surround the city on three sides, and extend many miles back, are actually as barren as their appearance from the ocean indicates, affording but a scanty allowance of vegetation for a few sheep, goats, and donkeys. All the supplies of fruit, meat, vegetables, &c., for the city and shipping, are brought on the backs of mules and asses, from valleys which lie fror^i forty to a hundred miles distant ; and even the wood for fire, brickbats, tiles, and other materials for building, are brought in the same manner. With this description of the place, I now proceed to relate a few adventures. Immediately on landing, we proceeded up through the city ; took a view of the 1 y" 70 VOYAOB TO OREGON. custom house, which, by the way, is a fine building ; went into a number of stores, and finally came round to the market, where we found an abundance of fruit, similar to that of New York. We regaled ourselves on peaches, pears, plums, grapes, &c., but soon discovered a boy lying near us on a couch, and partly covered with a rug. We enquired what the matter was with him, and were informed that he was just recovering from the small pox. Looking around us, we saw a number in a similar condi- tion, and concluded that we should give the virtue of vaccination a faithful trial. Tying up some fruit in our handkerchiefs for our families on board, we returned to the vessel for the night. Not being able to weigh anchor the next morning as we expected, we entertained ourselves with another excursion on shore. Purchasing a few articles to take back to the ship when we returned, we bent our course up the beach, south of the city, and taking a narrow footpath, which wound up a steep declivity, soon found ourselves on an artificial steppe of some thirty or forty feet square, and which commanded a beautiful view of the bay and harbor of Valparaiso. From this we ascended another declivity one hundred feet high, nearly perpendicular, and from its top enjoyed a lovely prospect of the city and surrounding country. Continuing cur course, we passed a numb 3r of deep ravines, climbed a number of high bluflfs, and came to the lighthouse, which stands on the summit of Valparaiso Head. From this place, we discovered, near the shore, a cross erected on a rock, and approaching it, found that it was the sign of a burying ground, or rather a depository for dead bodies. In the language of scripture it might be called " Golgo- tha, the place of a skull ; " for the ground was literally covered with human bones. Here had been dug a deep hole about twelve feet square, into which those who had died with the small pox in the city, had been indiscrimi- nately thrown. They were conveyed here from the hospital, and other places, in carts and wheelbarrows, so soon as they were dead, and perhaps sometimes be- fore ; and, uncoflined and unshrouded, were cast into I VOYACrB TO OKBGON. ^ 1^ one common reservoir, where their bones will mingle, undistin^ished, till the resurrection morn. Turning from this sickening sight, we proceeded over a high point of land, and came down to the shore of a beautiful bay, which constituted a resort for a variety of sea fowl; and having refreshed ourselves with bread, and bathed in the ocean, we collected a few shells and other curiosi- ties, and turned our course backward towards the landing. Rising over a high and barren hill, in the rear of the city, we entered a deep ravine, very narrow at the bot- ton, and forming a channel for a small rill of water. Each bank was covered with a spontaneous growth of the sage plant and other shrubbery, while, by the side of the brook, groups of females from the city were seen, who had resorted thither for the purpose of wash- ing their clothes. As we parsed down the narrow path which had been cut into the almost perpendicular sides of the mountains, we met a large number of donkeys driven by natives, with two casks slung across each one of thoir backs for the purpose of conveying into the city. For some distance up this ravine, there are dwellings erected where there is sufficient room, and in many places small mud-walled cottages have been stuck into the side of the mountain, where places have been exca- vated for that purpose. This ravine led us directly into the back part of the city ; and, after taking a view of the cathedral, which had been rebuilt on the -«?; ae site since its destruction by the earthquake, and cciLc^ing a few necessaries for the comfort of our fam .i-o on oui continued voyage, we bid adieu to the Chilian coast, very unfavorably impressed as regards the condition of the country. One thing which particularly struck us on examining the city of Valparaiso and the country in its immediate vicinity, was the wonderful discrepancy betwixt the name and the place. Valparaiso signifies Vale of Para- dise ; and certainly no word has ever been more abused than this, in its application to this place. Coflsidering its irregularity; the narrowness and nlthiness of the streets ; the squalid appearance of many of its inhabitants ; the Sii ! '. fl ■it VOYAOB TO OREOOV. obscenity which presents itself in almost every direc- tion ; the loathsome diseases which prevail ; the cloomy character of its relicion, and the barrenness of the sur- rounding country, Valparaiso is well entitled to a re- baptism, and might appropriately be called, the ** Valley of the Shadow of Death. " •m M' V4-« T*-* 4^^-' ■^^*ik-''i/*.^ £M-^'fri' -4S-'-r f CHAPTER lY. Journal continued — Raising anchor — View of the Andes - Brig — ii'acific ocesn rightly named — Capture of a sea monster — Difficulty among the sailors — Spoken by a whaler — Captain Sawyar — Island of Mowi — Hawaii — Oahu — Honolulu — Remarks on the Island — Oahu and its city — Sabbath — Introduction to the royal family — Interview — Anniversary of the landing of missionaries — Visit to the Para — Battle ground — Kamehameha L — Waiakiki — Valley of Manoah — Source of prosperity — Difficulty with the French — Arrogance of Captain La Place — Impression upon the Hawaiians. On the morning of the 22d of February, we were all ready to proceed on our voyage, and commenced raising our anchor, but the anchor of a French barque getting foul of ours, we were obliged to raise both at the same time, and were consequently detained until four o^clock in the afternoon. At this time a land breeze favored our departure, and again unfurling our canvass to the wind, we directed our course for the Sandwich Islands. After we had proceeded a few miles from the shore, we enjoyed, from the deck of our vessel, a clear and distinct view of the towering Cordilleras. This astonishingrange of mountains, which extends from the Isthmus of Darien to the Straits of Magellan, is situated here, sixty or seventy miles from the shore, and there is something peculiarly grand in their appearance at this vast distance; and surely a near view must be sublime beyond descrip- tion. Some of them present a white appearance, as if covered with snow, and others assume a sombre hue, representing the moral darkness which surrounds the whole country. Some of them lift their towering sum- mits far above the clouds, and seem to look do\vn with contempt upon the storms which howl around their base. While contemplating this most stupendous range of mountains on the globe, a fine breeze from the south 'JV-. III 74 VOYAGE TO OREGON. filled our already expanded sails, and in forty-eight hours we had run four hundred miles. On Tuesday, the 25th, an American brig showed us the stars and stripes; we returned the compliment, and passed on. On the 28th, we passed into the torrid zone, but still found the weather comfortably cool, the mercury standing at sixty-seven degrees in the shade. The small pox not appearing among us the tenth day out, we con- cluded that all had escaped without catching the disease. For this indication of Providential care, we felt to offer unfeigned thanksgiving. The ocean which washes the western shore of the continent of North America, is pacific, both in name and nature. Nothing could exceed the pleasantness of our sailing for twenty-five days after leaving Valparaiso. The wind was constant from the south-east, never strong, and consequently the ocean was smooth ; and, with little perceptible motion, we were borne along from one to two hundred miles per day. On the 19th of March we re-crossed the equinoctial line at west longitude one hundred and sixteen degrees. We found the weather, in the region of the equator, not so warm as we anticipated, yet, at night, the heat in the cabin was somewhat oppressive; but during the day we were constantly fanned by the gentle and cooling breeze which wafted us onward towards our destiiiation. On the 23d, the monotony of our voyage was broken in upon by the capture of one of the monsters of the deep. Two uncommonly large sharks appeared on our stern, attended by pilot fish, and a number albicores. The pilot fish is the jackall of the lion of the deep, and it is said that the albicore usually follows in the train, for the purpose of sharing in the prey taken by the shark. We fastened a rope to a large shark hook, which we baited with a piece of pork, and cast '* *i>to the sea. The sharks were soon attracted by it, and one of them seizing the bait, the sailors drew upon the rope, and the hook fastened to his upper jaw, but it required several men to draw him up along side the ship, and it was necessary to rig a pulley before he could be hoisted over •fi VOYAOB TO OREGON. n •' the bulwarks on to the deck. As this was the first view we had had of a shark, no little curiosity was excited on board by his appearance among us. This curiosity was not satisfied until even the physiology of his sharkship was thoroughly investigated by dissection. One claimed his back bone, one his jaw bone, one his teeth, one his fins, and another his tail ; the remainder was cast back into the ocean, and soon devoured. In addition to the shark, there appeared, about the same time, two large sword fish, bounding out of the water, and showing their silvery sides, but we were obliged to be satisfied to view them at a distance, as they manifested no inclination to be captured. On the 24th, having passed through the region of variables, we were favored with a strong north-east trade, and, during one week, we sailed the distance of thirteen hundred miles; but, on the morning of the 3 1st, the weather became squally. This was supposed to be occasioned by our contiguity to a number of small islands, which lay to the windward of us. It had been the practice of some of the ministers on board, to preach occasionally to the sailors in the fore- castle, and, apparently, considerable ^ood had been accomplished in this manner. Many of them had be- come very serious, and a few had professed to experi- ence a change of heart ; but a circumstance transpired on the 24th, which was as afflicting to all on board as it was injurious to the sailors. Charley, the sail maker, a Dane by birth, being a pestilent fellow, though a favorite among the seamen, refused to perform, immediately, the pleasure of the mate, Mr. Farrington. The latter re- quired Chprley to carry a musket from the bow of the ship back towards the stern, but not doing it so soon as it was supposed he ought, Farrington drew hid fist, and smote Charley back of the ear, and knocked him on the windlass, so that he received a severe wound in the head. The blood ran freely; the sailors became much excited, and resolved that there should be no more preaching among them, but subsequently recalled this resolution, and allowed us to continue our instructions. ;'l' '■■ •■ ^ I A' 76 VOYAGE TO OREGON. They were a heterogeneous class, beinc composed of Danes, Prussians, Germans, English, Irish and Yankees. On the 3d of April, we discovered a sail on our larboard quarter, about six miles off. She appeared desirous of speaking with us, and soon there appeared a speck on the water oetween the two vessels, wnich after a while could be distinguished as a whale boat approach- ing us. We luffed up to the wind, and waited for her to come along side. Soon she was under the lee of the Lausanne. She contained six men, two Americans, one of whom was the captain, one African, and three Sand- wich Islanders. The captain came on board, and re- ported his ship as the whaler Fama, of Boston, seventeen months from home, and himself as Captain Sawyer. He appeared highly gratified to receive "news from home," though what we brought was nearly six months old. The Kanakas, or Sand vich Islanders, were stout, noble- looking fellows, and Mr. Dibble, the Presbyterian mis- sionary, understanding the Hawaiian language, entered into conversation with them. He learned from them that both the king and queen of the Islands were con- verted, and had become members of the Church. He also learned that the king had removed his residence from Honolulu, on the island of Oahu, to Lahina, on Mowi, in consequence of the temptation to drunkeness which beset him in the former place, he having been intemperate previous to his conversion. This is a fine example for converted drunkards. Let them remove as far as possible from the cause of their ruin. Captain Sawyer, after having obtained a few potatoes and other vegetables, which are always a great rarity to whale- men a long time out, left us to pursue our course, and returned to his hazardous employment. Tuesday, the 8th, at eleven o'clock, the island of Mowi presented its high bluffs to our view about forty miles to the south-west of us, making it forty-five days since we lost sight of Chilian coast. We could also indistinctly see the high mountains of Owyhee, or Ha- waii, which, however, were about seventy miles off. Between these two islands is a channel thirty miles \ VOYAGE TO OREGON. 77 wide. On Hawaii is a burning mountain, which is considered a great curiosity. In consequence of a ."suc- cession of cairns and squalls, we were detained off the islands longer than we anticipated. For several days the weather was dark and gloomy, the sea ran high, the rain fell in torrents, and we thought of the fate oi the Lark, which was lost on the coral reef, which surrounds the island of Hawaii. In the evening of the 10th, however, we came in sight of Morokai, another of the group; but not considering it safe to run down the channel in the night, we taclked ship and lay to the wind. The following morning the island of Oahu could be distinctly seen in the misty distance. This island presents an excellent waymark for navigators, and is known by one of its high moun- tains, which appears to rise out of the ocean in the form of a sugar loaf. At twelve o'clock of the 11th, we had Diamond Hill in full view before us, and there appeared something across a large bay which Mr. Dibble informed us Was the city of Honolulu. Presently, we were abreast of the city, though at the distance of four miles. The channel into the harbor being pointed out by Mr. Dibble, our course was directed towards it, and we were soon boarded by an old gentleman who acts as pilot for the harbor. In a few moments our anchor was dropped in the roads outside the coral reef which encir- cles the island of Oahu. We immediately received a visit from the U. S. consul, Mr. Brinsmade, and Captain Stetson. The latter is the son-in-law of the Rev. John Lindsey, of New York, and resided on the island of Towi. He had been waiting for our arrival for five weeks. These two gentlemen, after paying their respects, returned to the shore, and provided ^'^.commo- dations for about twelve of the passengers for the following night. The next day, the vessel was brought into the inner harbor, and provision was made for a number of other families, but some were under the necessity of continu- ing on board over the Sabbath. On Monday, however, our indefatigable friends, the consul and Captain Stetson, m ill II I 78 VOYAGE TO ORBOON. succeeded in procuring comfortable lodgings for all the passengers during their stay on the island. The consul IS a member of the Presbyterian church, and Captain Stetson is a member of the M. E. Church. Both, by their unremitting attention to our wants, secured our warmest affection. The members of the Presbyterian mission, and many of the foreign residents, extended to us that cordial hospitality whicn is seldom exhibited to a company of strangers. It fell to my lot, with my family, to be entertained by Mr. and Mrs. Johnstone, the teachers of Oahu Charity School, whose dwelling commands a fine view of the mountain scenery, the rolling surf, and the city and harbor of Honolulu. The Sandwich Islands are ten in number, Hawaii being the principal in extent and the number of its inhabitants, but Oahu first in. point of commercial impor- tance. They once contained several hundred thousand inhabitants, but of late years, their population has greatly decreased. This, doubtless, has been the result of their connexion with foreigners; and strange as it may appear, christian nations have introduced theses means into the Sandwich Islands, that are destined to prove the destruction of the Hawaiian nation. Intem- perance, with its concomitant evils, threatens the ruin of these islands, but thanks to an overruling Providence, with the seeds of death, a conservative influence has been introduced. The cross of Christ has been erected on these shores, and thousands have rallied around it. There are forty families of missionaries scattered over these islands, who are supported by the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, whose labors have been crowned with wonderful success. Of the one hundred thousand inhabitants which the islands now contain, seventeen thousand are members of the church, and Paganism has no existence in the group. The island of Oahu is about sixty miles long and forty broad, and contains a population of about twenty thou- sand souls. The city of Honolulu is by far the most noted place on the island, as it is the commercial empo- rium for the whole group. It is delightfully situated on VOYAUE TO OREGON. 79 a beautiful plain, and surrounded with the most enchant- ing scenery, variegated with ocean, hills, cloud-capped mountains, and rich and fertile vales. The climate is delightful, the mercury seldom rising above eighty-five degrees in the shade, nor sinking below forty. The number of the inhabitants at present is about ten thousand, four hundred of whom are foreir ors. Here are English, French, Americans, Chinese, Africans, &c. ; the most of the foreigners, however, are Americans. Some of them have large mercantile establishments, and are extensively engaged in the sugar business. The private dwellings of some of the citizens, both native and foreign, are well built, and richly furnished. The coral rock, which here abounds, is becoming extensively used for building, and makes an excellent material for that purpose. The buildings of the missionaries are principally of coral, well made, commodiously situated, and suitably furnished. The next Sabbath after landing, we attended the native church in which the Rev. H. Bingham officiates, and, to our astonishment, found collected about two thousand Hawaiians, to hear the word of the Lord. These were, nearly all of them, decently clad; a few, however, were almost entirely naked, but they all be- haved with becoming propriety, and the most strict attention was paid to tne word dispensed. The preacher addressed them in the native language. The meeting house was built after the native style, being thatched with grass from the bottom to the top. The house, however, is getting out of repair, and another is being erected of coral, near this, which will seat, on the ground floor, when completed, three thousand persons. Besides this, there is another native church in the city, of which the Rev. Lowell Smith is pastor. This has been built but two years, and the congregation num- bers from twenty to twenty-five hundred. There is also a Bethel chapel, commodiously situated, which was erected by the Seaman's Friend Society, and is under the pastoral care of the Rev. Mr. Diell, who was absent from his charge on account of ill health. 80 VOYAGE TO OREGON. This was occupied every Sabbath by the Methodist missionaries during their continuance on the island. Through the influence of Mr. Brinsmade, we were all favored with an introduction to the royal family. One hour previous to the time appointed for our inter- view, we collected at the American Consulate, which is situated about one half mile from the king's house, and, at the time specified, marched down through the city towards the fort, where we were met by a soldier, who conducted us to the audience chamber. We were intro- duced into a room of some twenty feet square, spread with Chinese carpeting, and well furnished with tables, chairs, sofas, &c., for the accommodation of visitors. The king and his suite were not present when we entered, out being informed of our arr ;al, the former soon made his appearance, attended by the governor of Oahu, and a very large and dignified woman who had been the wife of*^ two kings, and who then officiated as his majesty's prime minister, and her httle son, of some eight years of age, who was heir apparent to the throne. They received us with much grace and dignity, and bidding us welcome to their shores, assured us of their friendship. The object of our expedition being explained by the consul, and interpreted to the king by the Rev. Mr. Richards, both the king and his premier expressed their astonishment and admiration, and said that they ardently desired that we might be prospered in our enterprise. They pronounced our cause "good," and prof!'ered their hospitalities while we were with them, and their continued aid in the prosecution of our work. Our superintendent, the Rev. Jason Lee, addressed his majesty through the interpreter, relative to our mis- sion in Oregon, and proposed an exchange of the produce of that country, consisting of flour, fish, beef, &c., for the products of the Sandwich Islands, consisting of sugar, molasses, cof!ee, indigo, &c., to which the kmg seemed heartily to concur, and said that he was very much pleased with the idea. This conversation being closed, the consul gave signs that it was time to retire, and accordingly we all aroje, and passing round the room, ▼OYAOE TO OREGON. 81 one after another, shook hands with the king, his min- ister and her son, and departed, highly gratified with our interview with the royal family of the Hawaiian nation. Here wtre displayed none of the pomp and trappings of royalty, nont; of the parade and ceremony usually exhibited in the courts of kings. Bnt every tliiiiif, the apartments, furniture, and apparel of the royal family, partook of that neatness and simplicity Tiurthy the supreme head of an infant and dependent nati(;n. The king was uressod in blue broadcloth, made u|) in the English style, with epaulettes on his shoulders and a miniature crown on the lapel of his coat. He is distinguished by the title of Kamehameha the Third. On Monday, the 10th, the twentieth anniversary of the landing of the iirst missionaries on the island of Oahu, was celebrated at the house of Rev. H. Bingham, who was one of the pioneers in the business of evange- lizing these islands of the ocean. The season was rendered interesting by many hallowing associations. A short history of the Sandwich Island mission was given by Mr. Bingham, and, in view of the astonishing results of missionary labor, as seen in the elevation of the Hawaiian nation, from the deepest degradation of lieathenism, to the enjoyment of the blessings of Chris- tianity and civilization, surely we had reason to exclaim, in the language of Moses, " What hath God wrought ! " On Thursday, the 22d, we visited what is called, in the language ot' the country, the Para, about eight miles east of Honolulu. We were accompanied by the consul. Captain Garter, Captain Grimes, Dr. Judd and lady, and Mrs. Hooper. At half past nine we had all mounted our horses, which had been provided for our use, and, led by the consul, proceeded out of the city, like a troop of cavalry, on the round gallop ; and taking a winding path, we soon found ourselves on a contracted plain, with huge mountains on our right and left, rising some thousands of feet high, their lofty heads being orna- mented with caps of neecy clouds. Presently we entered a dark thicket, and found the path so narrow and difficult, that it was impossible to 63 VOYAOE TO ORfSGUN. I ■ proceed but by s'mgh file, and ^t a very slow. pace. After descending and ascending a number of almost perpendicular banks, where somie of the ladies found it very difficult to keep to their saddles, and fording a small rivulet which dashed through the thicket, we came into a small opening, overgrown with grass, and within few rods of the Para. Here we dismounted, and u leaving our horses in the care of some Kanakas, who had placed themselves here for that pttrpose, proceeded on foot to view the object of our curiosity. Soon we found ourselves on the brink of a frightful precipice several hundred feet high, and almost perpendicular, down which there are steps cut in the rock to enablp persons to ascend and descend in safety. This is the only place where it is possible for persons to. pass from one side of the island to the other without making Ihe circuit of the shore, and this pass has been always con- sidered remarkably ditlicul%' and, dangerous. But in 1837, Mr. Alanson Beers, a blacksmith, who accompanied one of the forraipr expeditions to" Oregon, made an important improvement in this pass, by fixing firm into the rock, a railing of iron for some distance down the steepest part of the descent. This Para is six hundred feet above the level of the ocean, descending to the north-east abruptly until you arrive at a plain, which extends about three miles to the shore, and which 8up]iorts a population of more than five thousand people. The appearance of this plain from the top of the Para, dotted with the adobe- walled cottages of the islanders, and near the centre of which was pointed out the dwelling of the Rev. Mr. Parker, and the church where listening hundreds are taught the way to heaven, is truly delightful ; and, with the grandeur of the mountain and ocean scenery, is a full compensation for the labor and difficulty of visiting the place. This Para is noted, not only for the sublime natural scenery by which it is surrounded, but also for its inte- resting historical associations. Here terminated one of the bloodiest wars that ever desolated these islands. Having satisfied our curiosity, we remounted, rode VOYAGE TO OREGON. S3 •i tiiral intti- ■rie of rode '1 over the battle ground, stopped to take a view of a beautiful cataract, and returned to a house owned by the consul, and situated about twd miles out of the city, where we sat down to a sumptuous repast. Here we spent a social hour, until the heat of the day had passed, and then, taking to our horses, galloped back to the city, well pleased with our excursion. On Saturday, the 25th, rode up to Waiakiki, about three miles, whd^ire there is a beautiful cocoanut grove; i'rom thence to the valley of Mahoah, by way of the Chinese tomb^, passing^ the country residence of the Rev. H. Bingham. This valley is exceedingly fertile, and much frequented by visitors, on account of its de- lightful mountain scenery. In this valley is situated the old i)alaoei the residence of some of the former kings. It is a small thatched cptta^e, surrounded by a dense grove of fruit tree§, resembhng in appearance the apple tree. The building is in a*very dilapidated condition, and constitutes the habitation of bats, mice, and other vermin. On returning to the city, wc vr^e informed that the vessel would leave the harbor of Honolulu for her destination on the morning of the 28th. This gave us but little time to extend our observations ; but from the few we were able to take, we were favorably im- l)resscd with regard to the importance of the Sandwich Islands. Doubtless the prosperity of these islands has depended, and still depends, mainly upon the whale ships that annually flock to their ports. The people of the islands, both native and foreign, had not recovered from a feverish excitement, into which they had recently been throvvU by the belligerent attitude in which a French man of war presented itself before Honolulu. The principal offences against France, of which the Frenchman complained, were, first, that the Hawaiians had refused to admit French Roman Caih(.>lic missionaries to land on the islands, when Prote^^tant missionaries had always been dlowed that privilege ; and, second, that the Hawaiian government had passed a law prohibiting tin introduction of French brandy. For these crimeSy France resolved to call the wicked ¥* 84 VOYAGE TO ORBOON. Hawaiians to an accoimt ; and, consequently, so soon as the frigate arrived, which had been sent to comp)el the Hawaiians to submission, the French commander, Captain La Place, in the most menacing form, sent the king word that he had a certain number of hours to select between two alternatives. First, Roman Catholic missionaries must be admitted without restraint; the landing of French brandy in any quantities must be allowed ; and the Hawaiian government must pay to the French an indemnity of twenty thousand dollars; or, second, the favorite town of the islanders must suffer all the horrors of a bomj^ardment, with the prospect of an entire subjugation to the French. For awhile the king hesitated whether to be buried amidst the ruins of his country, or submit to the unjust and arrogant claims of the French, but, through the influence of his counsel- ors, finally preferred the latter alternative. The name of the frigate was the Artimese, and she was commanded by Captain La Place. This unhappy interview betwixt the French and Hawaiians left the impression on the minds of the citizens of Honolulu, both native and foreign, that France will take the first rea- sonable opportunity, to reduce the islands to subjection. I ■ft . . i J , (■ - * ! A> < % 0<1' *♦■ •.;^i^ * * CHAPTER V. Journal consinued — Depanure from Honolulu — Slow progresa — Fresh breese — Coast of Oregon — Old pilot — Captain dGlivera up the remel — Crossing the fearful bar — Deep anxiety — Cast anchor in Baker's Bay — Rev. Daniel Lee — Chenook Indians — Clatsope — Ascend the river — Fort George — Run agroiu.d — Difficulty of ascending — Arrival at Vancouver — Meeting called — MMonariei receive their appointments — Sent ofi* to their stations — First encampment in Oregon — Ascending the Wallamette in cajtoes — Tuip Water — Portage — ClMin* poeg — Horseback ride — Arrival at the Mission Station. According to arrangements, on Tuesday morning, the 28th of April, at nine o'clock, we were all assembled at the United States Consulate, with many of our newly made friends of O^aiu, who had endeared themselves to us by their unwcciried kindness and hospitality, awaiting the preparation of boats to convey us to the ship. Soon all was in readiness, and taking an affectionate leave of our attendants, we were quickly on board the Lausanne. The winds were favorable, the sails were unfurled to the breeze, and we moved slowly out of the harbor through a Winding channel, which the God of nature has formed through the mighty reef of coral nearly encircling the island. For several days after leaving Oahu, we were obliged to run close upon the wind, and, consequently, made but slow progress. Our course was north-east from the islands to the mouth of the Columbia river, and conse- quently the north-east trade was a head wind. So soon, however, as we reached the thirtieth degree of north latitude, a fresh breeze from the west wafted us on at the rate of one hundred and fifty to two hundred miles per day. In addition to the usual subjects of interest at sea, consisting of whales, sharks, porpoises, dolphins, alba- • M 86 VOYAGE TO OREGON. * • 1- 0! troses, &c., the company were entertained, for a succes- sion of evenings, by a course of lectures, delivered by the Rev. Jason Lee, on the subject of the Oregon mis- sion, embracing its first establishment, and the proper '^ourse to be pursued to advance its future prosperity. While thus employed, the winds of heaven were propi- tious, and we were rapidly opproaching the coast of Oregon. At ten o'clock on the morning of the 21st of May, the western coast of North America, which is washed by the great Pacific ocean, that land towards which we had been directing our course for upwards of seven months, presented itself before us. Cape Disap- pointment appeared on our leeward quarter, and Point Adams on our bow. Considering the direction of the wind, the vessel could not have been placed more favor- ablv for entering the mouth of the Columbia river. Wjund and tide both favoring us, preparations were immediately made for crossing the dreaded bar of the Columbia. Captain Spaulding found an old sailor at Oahu, who had spent some time at the mouth of the Columbia, a number of years before, and who said he was well acquainted with the channel across the bar. This man the captain had taken the precaution to bring with him, to act as pilot on entering the river ; and, accordingly, on approaching land, the captain surren- dered the vessel into the hands of the old pilot. The latter went aloft, and issued his orders from the fore top mast head. All was anxiety on ship board, as it was cried by the man with the sounding line, "five fathoms and a half," for we then knew that we were passing over the fearful bar, and that very soon we should experience ,-he fate of a number of vessels, which, years before, had pursued the same track but to rush to ine writable destruc- tion, or, be quietly moored in the placid waters of the bay, behind the projecting cape. Soon the water deep- ened to seven and nine fathoms, and the captain observed, " We have reason to congratulate ourselves on having crossed the bar of the Columbia in safety, and are now steering our course for Baker's Bay." And surely all felt heartily to acquiesce in the sentiment, as we slowly -♦ VOYAGE TO OREGON. 87 passed around the point of Cape DisaDpointment, and dropped our anchor on American grouna. The English barque Vancouver, lay at anchor in the bay, waiting for a fair wind to put out to sea. So soon as we anchored. Captain Duncan, from the barque, came on board, and informed us that we had made at least one " hair breadth escape," as we came within a cable's length of running on to a sand bank; where the William and Ann were wrecked a few years before. He also informed us that he had just come down the river from Fort Vancouver; that Rev. Daniel Lee, and Mr. W. H. Wilson, who were members of the Oregon mission, were at the fort wher. he left, and that the people gene- rally were anxiously awaiting our arrival. A few hours after we came to anchor, an Indian canoe appeared, coming down the river, with a number of persons in it, and seemed to be directing its course towards us. While several miles off we could see, through the teleflSope, that there was one white man, with about a dozen In- dians, in the canoe, and when they approached so near as to determine who we were, they set up a loud shout for joy at our arrival. Soon they came along side, and to our great satisfaction, we were saluted by the Rev. Daniel Lee, who had left his station at the Dalls, and come down the river to visit the Chenooks, and preach to them. Though thirty miles above the mouth of the river, yet he discovered our sail, as we passed over the bar, and, supposing us to be the reinforcement expected, he resolved to hasten down and ascertain the fact. Rev. Daniel Lee is a nephew of the Rev. Jason Lee. They had performed a perilous journey together across the Rocky mountains; had endured together the trials of missionary life in Oregon ; and as they had been separated for more than two years, one remaining in Oregon, and the other recrossing the Rocky mountains, and then doubling Cape Horn, the circumstances of their meeting were of no ordinary interest The sensations realized cannot well be described. The uncle and nephew embraced each other, and wept. Their tears were tears of joy, mingled with grief — joy, that after VOYAGE TO OREGON 80 long a separation; and the endurance of so many hardships, they enjoyed the privilege of seeing each other's face — joy, that a kind and merciful Providenct; had preserved us during our long and tedious T^oyage, and had brought us in safety to this distant shore — joy, ' uit the Lord had poured out His spirit in Oregon, and that many of the Indians had been converted ; but grief, that since their separation in Oregon, some of the tHo- neers of the cross in this land of darkness, had been taken from the scene of their labors and usefulness; a grief mitigated by the consideration, that they died as the christian dies, happy and triumphant. Towards evdhing a number of Indians of the Chenook tribe came on board, among whom were some of the nobility, one of the principal chiefs, whose name was Chenamus, and his wife, whom they called the queen, being of the number. Most of them were very small in size, and very poorly clad, some of them not having sufficient clothing to cover their nakedness. The chief had nothing on but a blanket, which he wrapped around him, but the queen had on a calico dress, a neckerchief, and a red woolen shawl. Soon they were reinforced by the arrival of a band of Indians from the south side 01 the river, called the Clatsops, who were very savage in their appearance, some of them being painted in the most hideous manner. They collected together on the fore part of the deck, and commenced singing and dancing in the most fantastic style. Four persons en- gaged in the dance, and as one got weary and retired, another would step in and carry it on. They appeared to er 'oy it exceedingly, and doubtless supposed that they were affording us the highest gratification in celebrating our arrival among them. Many of them continued on board during the night, and though it was very cold, some slept in their open canoes which lay along side the vessel, with nothing around them. Their appearance, as they lay shivering in the cold, was truly deplorable. These, we learned, were slaves, and were not allowed by their masters to come on the deck. Surelv, thought we, if any human beings in the world neod tfie sympa- H* VOYAGE TO OREGON. W thies of their fellow men, we have found them on entering the territory of Oregon. The day after we crossed the bar, we were obliged to continue at anchor in Baker's Bay, on account of a severe storm from the south-east, which prevented our sailing up the river; but on the morning of tHe 28d, the wind became fair, and we prepared to ascend the majestic Columbia. A gentleman by the name of Bir- ney, residing at Port George, and belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company, came on board, and volunteered his services as pilot from Baker's Bay, to the place of his residence, the distance of thirteen miles. Weighing anchor, we were conducted aJong a Ending channel quite across the mouth of the river, and passed within a short distance of Point Adams, where the principal village of the Clatsops is situated. Crossing the mouth of a bay lying back of Point Adams, called Young's Bay, we came to anchor for the night, within a stone's cast of Fort Greorge, otherwise known as the " far famed Astoria, the New York of the Pacific ocean." • Fort George consists of three small block-houses, one of which is occupied by Mr. Birney and family, and the others for purposes of trading. Here we went ashore, and after examining the site of old Astoria, built a fire by the side of a cold spring, and cooked and enjoyed our supper a^n on " terra firma,^ where our table would stand stiU. Weighed anchor on the morning of the 25th, and before a fine breeze, proceeded about one mile and a half, and run the ship aground. All hands spent most of the day in endeavoring to work off the vessel, but could not succeed. The next morning we were favored with a high tide, and succeeded in clearing the bar, but had not run but a short distance before we struck another bar with considerable violence, and, at first, feared that if we ever got clear of it, it would be with great difficulty; but the still swelling tide of the next morning, again floated us, and sailing a short dis- tance, again we ran aground, and were detained another day. We concluded that, either the navigation of the Columbia for vessels as large as ours, was exceedingly 00 VOVAOE TO OREGON. i difficulty or our pilot was ignorant of the channel. How- ever, we succeeded, after running aground several more times, in reaching that point of land on which Fort Vancouver is situated, to which we had been looking forward as the termination of our voyage to Oregon, and where, by the cood providence of God, we were permitted to cast ancnor the first day of June, 1840. Dr. John McLaughlin, the superintendent of the affairs of the Kadson's Bay Company, though a Catholic himself, received us with much cordiality, and extended to us the hospitalities of the place, so long as we should find it convenient to remain. Vancouver is the emporium of the Hudson's Bay Company in Oregon. Tnis is the general depot for all the goods brouffht to the country, and also for the furs collected, until they are shipped for England. Here we remained a number of days, receiving and storing our goods ; but on the 13th of June, a meeting of the members of the mission was called, by Rev. Jason Lee^ to consult in relation to fixing the appointments of the newly arrived missionaries. These took place as follows : J. P. Richmond at Fort Nez Qualy, on Puget's Sound ; J. H. Frost at Clatsop, on the mouth of the Columbia ; W. W. Kone and G. Hines on the Umpqua river, and A. F. Waller was left without an appointment for the purpose of assisting in the erection of mills on the Wallamette river. The lay members of the reinforce- ment were principally located in the Wallamette settle- ment, that being the place where the main business operations were carried on. There being a physician in tl-^ Wallamette settlement, Dr. J. h. Babcock was ap- pointed at the Dalls, also H. B. Brewer as a farmer. All the missionaries were immediately initiated into the Oregon mode of traveling, in getting from Vancouver to their respective appointments. Canoes were provided for us, and we all scattered away ; some up the Columbia, some down ; some up the Cowilitz, and some up the Wallamette. It was in the evening of the 14th day of June, that Rev. A. F. Waller, Rev. W. W. Kone, myself, and our season o VOYAGE TO OREGON. u. t: families, found ourselves floating on the surface of the great Columbia, in two small canoes, on our way up to the mission station in the Wallamette settlement, having taken nothing with us but blankets, and provisions to make us comfortable on our journey. It was in the season of high water, and the bottom lands, along the river, were all overflown. Conducted bv our pilots, we crossed the main channel of the Columbia to the south side ; and running our canoes in among the cottonwood timber, we crossed a point of land which lies fifteen or twenty feet above low water mark, but which was then several feet under water, and coming to a kind of pro- montory covered with a dense forest of fir, we ran asliore and made our first encampment in Oregon. By the aid of flint, steel, and powder, we soon had the forest illuminated ; then the women prepared supper of fried meat and boiled potatoes, bread, butter and tea, and spread it out upon llie ground, where all partook of it with great relish. Next our bedding was prepared, and- after recruiting our fire, we prepared to sleep. The roar of the wmd through the thick branches of the fir trees, whose tali tops were waving gracefully over our heads, the hoot of the large owl, and the howling of the wolf, frequently broke in upon our slumbers, but the morning found us unharmed. In preparing to leave camp, the business of the morning afforded each of us considerable amusement by our awkwardness, arising from unacquaintance with this manner of living; but we concluded that we should soon become initiated, and make very good soldiers. Taking to our canoes at six o'clock, on the 15th, we proceeded a mile, and found ourselves in the Wallamette river, having saved a few miles of rowing, by crossing the point. Found the scenery along the river exceed- ingly wild as we ascended, the shores rocky, and lined with dense forests of fir, and but little land adapted to cultivation. At one o'clock we arrived at the Wallamette Falls, called by the Indians Tum Water. Here we found about one hundred and fifty of the most filthy and dx • graded looking beings in human shape, that our eyes ever beheld. Surely, thought we, it will require the ■4 i 02 VOYAGE TO OREGON. labor of many years to elevate these Indians from the dep^h of their pollution into a civilized and christian people. The fmlls are about thirty feet perpendicular, oeautiful indeed, aifording almost unlimited hydraulic privileces, yet the Indians held the place in unmolested control. The Hudson's Bay Company, however, had built a small block-houSe on the left bank, as we ascend the river, for their accommodation, in passing up and down. Here we were oblige^ to make a portage of half a mile, which occupied us till nearly night ; and we found it exceedingly fatiguing to carry all our things over the rocks, for half a mile, on our backs. We had accomplished it, however, at five oclock, and proceeding up four miles farther, we made our second encampment on Rock Island, having traveled but twenty-five miles since morning. The weather being fine, we enjoyed another comfortable night, and the following day, at one o'clock, p. M., arrived at Champoeg, which is the lower part of the settlement on the Wallamette river. The mission station was sixteen miles above, and, according to arrangement, horses were sent down to meet us. They arrived at three o'clock, and at four all were mounted, several of us taking children on before us, and the cavalcade started off upon a gallop over the plains. As we were well mounted, Mrs. Hines and myself took the lead, and passing over the most delightful country that we ever beheld, two hours and a half brought us into the midst of three little log houses which stood on the banks of the river, and known as the principal station of the Oregon mission. Here we arrived in safety on the 16th day of June, 1840, and were cordially welcomed by the missionaries on the ground, and made as comfortable as their circum- stances would admit. Remaining two days in the family of Rev. David Leslie, I then took possession of a small room in a house about one milo from the station, built for a mission hospital, where we again commenced keeping house, and where I designed my family to remain until I had performed an exploring tour through the country of the Umpquas. -^ , m t ii.m m ■I 5 ^- ♦ CHAPTER VI. Exploring tour to the vinpqua — PrvIiminariM — Departure — DeU|^tfut country ~ Encampment — Amuding incident — Fording river — Mountain La Beache — Elli river — Umpqua fort — Indian ftffiit — Franehman in charge — Meeting with the Indiana —Old chief's con feanion — Hostile Indiana — Danger of going among them — Resolved to go — Voyage to the coast — Indians accompany us — Inte- resting encampment — Indians on the coast — Meeting with them — Speeches of the chiefs — Results of the meeting — Talk to God — Solicitude of our Pro< tectress — Watcliiaf — Presents — Departure — Description of the country — Return to the fort — Story of the Frenchman's wife — Dangers we bad escaped — Perilous adventures of the mountaineers — Tour continued — Mountainous country — Fording Elk river — Giant tree — Aromatic tree — Umpqua Indians — Head chiefs ~ Shocking story — Burst of heathen passions — Difficulty with guide — Settled — Fear of treachery — Confirmed — Request of We- We — Re- fused — Warning — An Indian can be honest — Unhappy results of not trusting him — Night — Lost in a forent — Sabbath — Indians again — Homeward route — Fine country — Delightful scenery — Home. Some time in the winter of 1837, before Rev. Mr. Lee left Oregon to return to the United States after a reinforcement, he visited the Umpqua tribe of Indians for the purpose of ascertaining their number and situa- tion ; but it being in that season of the year when it is next to impossible to explore the country, in consequence of the abundance of water which every where presents Jtself in the way of the traveler, he could not extend his own personal observations far, but was under the necessity of depending for information concerning the objects of his visit, upon the few Indians with whom he came in contact on his route, and a Frenchman who had charge of a trading post belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company, and situated on the Umpqua river. Such was the information given and the confiidence reposed therein, that Mr. Lee, before going to the States, had come to the determination that, if the mission was again rein- forced, he would estabUsh a station somewhere in the ^, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k // ^/ ^,^ .*\^ A J % ^. 1.0 I.I |iO "^" ■^ Bii 12.2 :^ 1^ 12.0 i HE 1-25 III 1.4 1.6 < 6" ► vl /: Photographic Sdences Corporation m \ <> ^ ^^^\ ^4^"^ 6^ ■^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEESTEP.N.Y. M5M (716) 873-4503 '^^A.^*' ^ 'bered. All the womtn were dressed in this manner with the exception of our friend, and one who had been the slave of a Frenchman, but had run away from her master, and returned to her people. These were dressed somewhat in the style of a Swiss peasant. Havj-g fully satisfied ourselves with regard to the number, disposition, and accessibility of the Indians in this solitary region, we prepared to take our leave, and the people all assembled to witness our departure. Giv- ing them a few presents, at nine o'clock, on Wednesday morning, carried forward by the stroke of the Indian paddle, we were rounding a high bluff situated on the south side of the mouth of the tJmpqua river, and form- ing one side of a small bay, in the bosom of which the Indian village we had just left was situated, and which was fast disappearing behind the point of the projecting cliff Crossing the mouth of the* river, which is about i 108 TOUR TO TUK UMPQUA. I 'i ^^B' 'I:;-- one mile wide, we stopped a few moments on the north side to lay in a little provision, and gave ourselves an opportunity to take some observations of the sur- rounaing country. The land on both sides of the mouth of the river presents a most forbidding aspect. On the south the mountains extend quite to the waters of the Pacific, and form a shore of the most bold and precipi- tous character. On the north is a low sandy beach ex- tending back from the mouth of the river about three miles, in the form of a triangle, and appearing destitute of vegetation, except a small growth of cotton wood. From our brief stay at the place, and our limited obser- vations, it was impossible for us to form a just estimate of the whole country ; but it appeared to us, that little importance can be attached to this portion of Oregon, viewed with reference to either agricultural or commer- cial pursuits. However, as there is a snug little harbor in the mouth of the river, and a channel across the bar, which will admit of the ingress and egress of craft, drawing not more than Jypor eight feet of water, t^is will probably be the outleFlbr the extensive and fertile valley above. Contemplating the probable period when the barbarism of both animate and inanimate nature along this river shall give place to civilization and Christianity, we turned our backs upon the great Pacific, and by the combined assistance of the Indian paddle and the Hood-tide, passed rapidly up the river, and at night encamped at the sal- mon fishery. Found the river to be affected by the tide nearly twenty-five miles from its mouth. We ascertained that the Indians at the falls are not of the tribe of those on the coast, though they speak a similar language. Spreading our blankets upon a shingle beach, we slept without molestation though surrounded by treacherous savages. Next day we started at an early hour, and though having but fifteen miles to travel, yet on account of the numerous strong rapids we had to ascend, and the portages we had to make, we were till sunset in reaching the fort. We were again welcomed by the Frenchman, and refreshed with a supper of bread, made VOtJR TO THE UMPQVA. 109 of pounded wheat, and roasted elk beef. Durine the evening Mr. Goniea came to us considerably excited, and warmly congratulated us on the safe guardianship his wife had exercised over us in our absence. He said that, in all probability, we should have been robbed of all we had, if we had not lost our lives, had it not been for the faithfulness of his wife and her brother. He told us that one of the chiefs of the clan we hv^d visited, was at the fort on our first airival, and saw us as we came in. Learning that we designed to visit his people on the coast, and excited with the utmost fear, he hast- ened down the river, and reported many evil things about us, intending thereby to instigate the Indians to prevent our going among them. Mr. Lee had brought a fowling piece with him, and had in his possession a patent shot pouch. This was the thing that had alarmed the chief. One story he told was that we had brought medicine in a bag that Mr. Lee wore on his neck, for the purpose of killing tTiem all off; and, that if we were permitted to come among them, the fatal bag would be opened, and they would all be destroyed. This exaspe- rated many of tnem, and Goniea's wife told him that we were in great danger the night we slept on the coast ; that the Indians were lurking about us during the whole night, seeking an opportunity, when it was dark around our tent, to attack us ; but that she and her brother kept a coitetant watch over us until morning. This explained to me the circumstances of that night, already described. But be this as it may, we were not, at the time, sensible that we were particularly exposed ; and we felt our- selves safe under the protection of our Heavenly Father. Notwithstanding the seeming favor with which we were received among them, the Indians along this river, and especially those on the coast, have often proved to be among the most treacherous of savages, and none have ever been among them, but have learned that they are capable of practising the most consummate dupli- city. A story told by the gentlemen of the Hudson's Bay Company, concerning what transpired on this river, clearly illustrates the treachery and cruelty of these no TOUR TO THE UWPQUA. J*- '% savages, as well as the perilous adventures of the Oregon mountaineers. A company of fur hunters, known by the name of the Smith, Sublette & Jackson Company, was formed on the frontiers of civilization, and the plan proposed to accomplish their object was, to divide the company be- twixt the three leaders, and the three portions to sepa- rate, each taking a given quantity of the Indian territory to explore. In this division. Smith was to* take the country extending from the Platte river, by the way of Santa Fe, to California ; thence turn north along the Pacific ocean, as far as the Columbia river, and thence back into the interior to join the other partners of the company. The country was in its wildest state, but few white men having ever passed through it. But nothing daunted. Smith and his company marched through to California, and thence along the coast, north, as far as the Umpqua river, collecting in their progress all the valuable furs they could procure, until they had loaded several "pack animals" with the precious burden. On arriving here, they encamped on the border of the river, near the place where they intended to cross, but on examination, found that it would be dangerous, if not impossible, to effect the passage of the river at that place. Accord- ingly, Smith took one of his men and proceeded up the river on foot, for the purpose of finding a better place to cross. In his absence the Indians, instigated by one of the savage looking chiefs whom we saw at the mouth of the river, rushed upon the party with their muskets, bows and arrows, tomahawks and scalping knives, and commenced the work of death. From the apparent kindness of the Indians previously, the party had been thrown entirely off their guard, and consequently were immediately overpowered by their ferocious enemies, and but one out of the twelve in camp, escaped from the cruel massacre. Scarcely knowing which way he fled, this one fell in with Smith, who was on his return to the camp, and who received from the survivor the shocking account of the murder of eleven of -his com- TOUR TO THE UMPQUA. Ill gon the on to be- pa- ory the of the Kice the rades. Smith, seeine that all was lost, resolved upon attempting nothing forther than to do his best to secure his own personal safety, with that of his survivinff com- panions, the Indians having secured all the fur, horses, mules, baggage, and every thing the company had. The three immediately crossed the river, and made the best of their way through a savage and inhospitable country towards Vancouver, where, after traveling between two and three hundred miles, and suffering the greatest de- privations, they finally arrived in safety. Rehearsing the story of their wonderful esc^ipe and subsequent sufferings, to the members of the Hudson's Bay Company, the utmost sympathy was excited in their behalf, and a strong pa?:ty was immediately fitted out to go and rescue the property from the savage robbers, and restore it to its surviving owners. The vigor and per- severance of this party, were equal to the promptitude with which it was fitted out. They proceeded to the scene of blood, and after committing the mangled bodies of Smith's murdered companions to the grave, compelled the Indians to relinquish the property they had taken, spread terror through the tribe, and returned in triumph to Vancouver. All this labor and expense were bestowed by the company gratuitously, and Smith and his friends, while at Vancouver, were fed and clothed without money and without price. In addition to this. Governor Simp- son, who, at that time, was at Vancouver, proposed to take Smith and all his furs to England, where he could avail himself of the advantages of the London market, and obtain a higher price ; but Smith repHed that he had already been laid under too many obligations by the company, and could not consent to receive this last prof- fered favor. Accordingly he sold his furs to the com- pany and went into the interior, where he found Sublette conflicting in his trade with the interests of the company, and induced him to leave that quarter. He then went into the country of the Colorado, and collected conside- rable property in furs and peltries ; but in crossing that river, he was again defeated by the Indians, and lost all. Subsequently, he returned to St Louis, and fitted oiit an ,"} PKM 118 TOUR TO THfe UMPQUA. expedition to Sante Fe. But this was his last journey among hostile tribes. Surrounded by the savage horde that beset his path, he was again attacked by his relent- less foe, and miserably perished. Having listened to the story of the ill-fated Smith, we prepared to continue our exploring tour farther into the interior, and up the valley of the Umpqua river. Through the assistance of Mr. Goniea, we procured an Indian guide of the Umpqua tribe, whom the French had designated by the name of " We-We," and who well understood the jargon of the country, and could officiate as our interpreter. The forenoon of Friday was spent in finding our horses, and preparing our pack. All beinff ready, betwixt twelve and one o'clock we started, with our guide in advance. Passing over a number of hieh hills, and fording the Umpqua three times, where tne bottom was very rocky and the water up to our horses' backs, we camped at night on the bank of a small rivulet, under the shelter of a grove of fir. We had traveled about twenty miles. The country traversed that day, though mountainous, is tolerably well adapted to grazing purposes, the land on the hills, and in many of the valleys, being covered with a spontaneous growth of the most nutritious grass. The timber grows less and less abun- dant as we proceed up the river; some of the fir trees, however, are ^nost magnificent. We measured c«ie with our lasso as high up as we could reach, and found it to be thirty-six feet in circumference. We judged it to be three hundred feet high. In the lowest valleys next the streams, grows a kind of timber, the like of which I have never seen in any other country. It appears to be of the laurel family, and is so strongly scented, that the air in the groves where it is found, is strongly im- pregnated with its aromatic odors. The elk abound in this country, and afford a fruitful source whence the Indians derive a subsistence. No Indians appeared during the first day. Saturday, ?J9th. Continued our toilsome way over mountains, and through valleys similar to those already described, and at noon arrived at the head quarters of -.. I TOUR TO THE UMPQUA. 113 we that portion of the Indians of this valley, distinguished by the name of the river. Here the head chiet of the Umpquas has fixed a temporally abode, and here one of those circumstances recently transpired, which, though of common occurrence in heathen countries, where the vicious propensities of depraved human nature are permitted to revel uncontrolled, are sufficient to freeze the heart's blood, ^en to contemplate at a distance. It is as follows: A report came to the ears of the chief of the Umpquas, that his wife had been guilty of infidelity towards her husband. This so enraged him, that, with- out knowing whether the report was true or false, he seized his musket, and went directly to the lodge where his wife was sitting, and deliberately shot her through the heart. " • ^ : , \ . Soon after our arrival on the side of the river oppo- site to the village, this chief, with the few men that were with him, came over to see us. He delivered a long speech, which was interpreted to us by " We- We," in rnaking which, one of his first objects seemed to be to justify the murder of his wife, and then to express his gratitude that christian teachers had come among them. While he was haranguing us, my attention was caught away from his speech by a terrible burst of heathen passions, which took place on the other side of the river, among the lodges. In the absence of the men, the women had a regular fight, scratching and biting one another, and tearing each other's hair, and squalling most frightfully. So tremendous was the explosion that even the chief paused in the midst of his address, and significantly remarked, '*^our women are hias masicha ;" (very bad.) Such were the indications here, that we came to the conclusion that the sooner we were out of the place the better it would be for us, and so soon as we had taken a little refreshment from our scanty stores, we told our guide that we were ready to proceed; but he positively refused to go any farther that day, saying that it would be using his people very ill, and that the chief would be very angry with us, if we did not stop and sleep with them one night. The contention became 5* • % i \ M- 114 TOUR TO THE UMPQUA. .1*^ .r % quite warm, and we began to consider ourselves in rather critical circumstances. If abandoned by our guide, it was extremely doubtful whether we could find our way back to the fort, or forward to the great valley of the Umpqua. The whole country was rough and mountain- ous, and there was no visible trail but a small portion of the way. But with all these difficulties, we showed that we were fixed in our resolutions to leave this suspicious horde of savages before darkness should favor them in the execu- tion of any treacherous designs which they might enter- tain towards us. Discovering that we were ready to mount our horses. We- We became more pliable, and said that he would proceed with us, on condition that we would pay him an extra shirt, we having at first siven him a shirt and a pair of pantaloons. Mr. Lee said he would give him no more, but, to get rid of the difficulty, I told We- We that if he would go, I would give him the additional shirt so soon as we should reach the great valley. Turning to his people. We- We addressed them a few words in the Umpqua language, and then told us he was ready to so. Accordingly, we left this group of wretched beings about three o'clock, p. m., and galloped swiftly over a little plain, towards a high mountain. Three hours' hard labor in ascending and descending, brought us to the foot of the mountain on the opposite side, and passing through a dense thicket, we found ourselves again on the bank of the river. We- We brought out a well known Indian "whoop," and was answered by another Indian, just below us, on the river. Immediately four Indians came in sight, with a canoe, and We- We told us we had better unpack our horses, and put all our things in a canoe to be taken up the river, a few miles beyond a place where the pass was very rocky, narrow, and dangerous. But the strange conduct of the Indians we had left, had excited our suspicions; and supposing that those in the canoe were some of the same party whom We- We had, perhaps, caused to come up the river for no good purpose, we resolved to keep what we had under our own eye as long as we could TOUR TO THE VMPQUA. 115 We told the guide that we should keep our things on our horses' backs. We- We hung his head, and tSd us we would be sorry for it before we got through. We proceeded, but found it as We- We had forewarned us. Our trail lay along a frightful precipice which towered far above us, and extended far below us, and in some places was so narrow and broken that a miss-step would nave precipitated us headlong on the rocks below, or into the rushing waters of the Umpqua. In one instance my own horse fell from ten to fifteen feet down the rocks, but at length succeeded in gaining the trail without receiving much injury. ^ But we were not destined to make the pass, withdiff considerable difficulty. In passing the last dangerous point, " old Pomp, " our pack horse, lost his footing, and rolling down a rocky steep of some thirty feet, went backwards into the Umpqua river. We had fastened around his neck a long lasso, and the end of it remaining on shore, we succeeded, by drawing it around a tree, in raising and keeping his head above the water until We- We had relieved him of his pack. While We- We was at work among the rocks, where the water was up to his neck, trying to relieve the horse of Ips burden, he told us that we might have saved ourselves that difficulty, if we had trusted to the honesty of aa Indian ; and we ourselves began to suspect that our fears had been quite groundless. It required our utmost effi^rts to keep the horse from drowning ; but after we had relieved him of his load, he managed himself a little better, and finding a place which was not quite so steep as the one where he entered the river, we succeeded, at that point, in getting him on the rocky shore. All our bedding, provisions, &c., were thoroughly soaked ; but gathering up what was not spoiled, and putting some on the horses, and carrying some on our own shoulders, we started on, being informed by the guide, that it was not far to a fine prairie. Night began to set in, and as we left the scene of our disaster, we entered a dense forest of fir, and the gloom continued to thicken around us until we were en- veloped in total darkness. We were leading our animals *i ^'^' III 110 TOUH T - • ■;^'<'?.!' ■ "■■<■• CHAPTER Vn. Tour to Vaneourer — Reception at the ibrt — Preaching in the hall — Buaineea completed — Expedient to keep warm — Cold weather ~ Difficult iiavigation — The rapldfl — Forest encampment — Strange rieitor — AfTeeting intelligence — Death of Her. James Ollej — My Mohican guest — Return honbe — Meeting — Fruitless attempt to recorer a dead body. ^ft % I 1 1 ^1 • 1 I ;l i 1 December 7th 1842. Left the Wallamette for Van- couver, for the purpose of procuring supplies for he Oregon Mission School, accompanied by five Indian boys. rroceeded on horse-back about twenty-five miles to a place on the Wallamette river, called, by the French, ^^La Butte," this being the most convenient place to land our supplies. Here, after having slept beneath the wide spreading branches of a large fir tree, we took the canoe which is kept by the mission above the falls of the Wallamette, for the purpose of transporting goods up and down the river, and proceeded to " Turn Water, " that is, the falls. We left our canoe above the portage, and taking a boat provided for us by Mr. Abernethy, the mission steward, we continued on about fifteen miles below the falls, and encamped one hour after sundown, having rowed our canoe and Iboat during the day the distance of thirty-five miles. The night was very cold, but collecting a large quan- tity of fuel, we were able to keep up a good fire during the night, and in this manner kept ourselves comfortably warm. Started the next morning as soon as it was day, and, though for six miles we had to contend with the strong current of the Columbia, we arrived at Vancouver at two o^clock, p. M. I went directly to the fort, and had an interview with James Douglass, Esq., one of the fPOVtt TO VANCOUVfift. 1^1 commandants of the place, and ascertained that I should be able to accomplish my business early on Monday morning. I was received with all that courtesy and hospitafity which usually characterize the gentlemen of the Hudson's Bay Company. It was Saturday, and in the evening I received a respectful invitation from Mr. Douglass, to preach in the hall, the following day. Ac^ cordingly, after the usual church service was read, I endeavored, to explain and enforce the inquiry of the jailer — " What must I do to be saved ] " On Monday morning, the 11th, having completed my business, and prepared to return, we proceeded to our boat, and found the Columbia river filled with ice. The weather had been increasingly cold, and the ice came down the river in large fields, and threatened, to put a stop, for the time being, to the navigation of the stream. However, it had not yet become very hard, and though there was some danger in the attempt, yet we launched forth into the stream, and breaking our way through the ice with our setting poles, we at length succeeded in getting safely into the mouth of the Wallamette. This river being clear from ice, we proceeded up about seven miles, and encamped under a high blun, wtiich sheltered us from the piercing winds from the north-Cc^^ t. The ground being frozen, the weather ex- ceedingly cold, and, withal, a scarcity of bedding, I took the following precaution to ensure a comfortable night : I built a large fire where I designed to make my bed, and after the earth became thoroughly warmed and dried, I removed the ure a little distance, and plucking some fir boughs, threw them upon the heated earth ; then spreading my buffalo skin upon the boughs, I lay down upon it, and with a couple of blankets over me, slept comfortably during the night. Next day at noon, we arrived at the falls, and on Wednesday, the 13th, made our portage. At two, p. M., we proceeded up the rapids above the falls, which, at that season of the year, are very difiicult of ascent. They are ascended by cordeling, and it is frequently necessary to work for hours in the water aiuong the m t2d tOVR TO VANCOUVER. I rocks, in order to get up one boat load, an exercise any tiling but agreeable when the merdury is nearly down to zero. We succeeded, however, with much toiling, and a severe wetting, in reaching the deep water above the rapids, without any serious accident, arid at night en- camped seven miles above the falls, in a dense forest of fir trees. I had preserved a few matches from getting wet, and succeeded, after awhile^ in striking up a good fire, though the wood where we were encamped was very wet. I cooked me a supper 'of fresh salmon, not forgetting to make a good cup of tea; and after partak- ing of my humble repast from my ground table, with that peculiar relish which good hesuth and hard labor always give to wholesome food, and offering up a tribute of thanksgiving to Providence for the blessings of the past, and invoking a continuance of his favors, I spread my skins and blankets upon the ground, and reclined myself to rest. As I lay stretched upon my bed of skins before the fire, musing upon the good providence of God, which had been manifested in our preservation amid the dan- gers to which we had been exposed in ascending the fearful rapids, I was startled by tne voice of a man from the river below us, inquiring, " What boat is that 1" 1 replied, it belongs to the Oregon mission. " Then," said he, "I will come ashore." It wais ten o'clock at night, and it was quite an uncommon thing for boats to remain upon the river to so late an hour. Consequently, I felt quite solicitous to know who the stranger might be. The sound of his oars, as they fell upon the water, grew louder and louder as he approached the shore, and in a few minutes he was along side of our boat, to which he fastened his small skiff. Clambering up the precipitous bank of the river through the thick underbrush, the light of our fire relieved me of some anxiety, as it shone upon the face of a " half-breed " Indian, direct from the place where I resided, which was forty miles above. This half-breed was an educated man, and a sketch of his history may be found below. After giving me th gratifying intelligence that my own familv were well, he -:^ :-p TOUR TO VANOOUVfitt. 128 inquired if I had heard the sad news. "What newst* said I, " I have heard nothing sad." " Then," said he, "lam the bearer of intelligence concerning the most afflicting event that has ever transpired in our settle- ment: the Rev. James Olley is no more" Intelligence more unexpected could scarcely have been communica- ted; and wnen the circumstances of the removal of Mr. Olley from this stage of action were related, the effect upon my mind was. quite overpowering. ->? Mr. Olley was a local preacher in the Oregon mission, and sailed from New York in the fall of 1830, with the large reinforcement in the ship Lausanne. He was a carpenter by trade, and after his arrival in Oregon, con- tinued to serve the mission in that capacity, as he was able. He was making preparations to build himself a house, and desiring some better lumber than any he could obtain in the vicinity of the mission for the purpose of making window sash, he had employed a youne man by the name of Eiken to accompany him up the Wallamette river about twenty miles, where there was pine timber, with the design of procuring a couple of logs and run- ning them down the river to the mission saw-mill, where they could be cut into boards to suit his purpose. He proceeded to the pinery, and cutting two small sized logs rolled them into the vater, but found that they were so heavy they would n Jt float. He had designed to take them in tow^ but finding that they would sink to the bottom, he resolved upon this expedient, to raise them to the surface, and lash a log to each side of his canoe. All being prepared they entered the canoe thus encum- bered, and committed themselves to the rapid and treacherous current of Wallamette river. The weather was exceedingly cold, as it had been for a number of weeks previously, and the water in the river coming down from the snowy mountains of the east, was as cold as the ice itself. As there had been but little rain during the fall, the river was not high, but there are places in it at all stages of the water, which are very rapid, and it requires great skill and dexterity to run tnem in safety even with an •r . 15U TOttIt TO VANCOtJVaft. w ' *^ empty canoe. However, they proceeded down the current about ten miles, without accident, Mf. Eiken being in the stern, and Mr. Olley in the bow of the canoe, when they came to one of the fearful rapids with which the river abounds. At this place is a ledge of rocks extending across the bed of the ctream, which rises out of the water in one place, forming a small island. The rapid commences a short distance above this ledge, and where the water breaks over the rocks it becomes exceedingly violent. Neither Mr. Olley nor Eiken had ever passed up or down this part of the river, consequently they were entirely ignorant of the dangers of the place; but there was no alternative, they were already in the strength of the current, and to make the shore on either side was impossible. Consequently they were carried with great violence on the rocks about fifteen yards from the little island, and about forty yards from the opposite shore. The bow of the canoe and logs first struck the rocks, and the stern swung so violently down that Eiken was thrown clear from the canoe into the strongest part of the current. But, being young, vigorous and active, he succeeded in making the shore aoout three hundred yards below, but he was so much exhausted through exertion, and benumbed by the cold, that when he reached the shore he was scarcely able to move; and while struggling in the icy water just before reaching the place where he could gain a foothold on the bottom, he was on the point of yielding to the fury of the current, and giving • himself up for lost. But he escaped to tell a more solemn tale concerning the fate of his comrade. As soon as Eiken possibly could, he returned to the place opposite where the canoe and logs struck, and observed that Mr. Olley, having held fast to the raft, and now being on one of the logs, was looking round as if to contrive what course to pursue. He called out to him and inquired, " what are you going to dol" Mr. Olley made no reply. Probably from the noise of the water rushing over the rocks, he did not hear him. Eiken thought he might have been bewildered* He directly sat down on the log and pulled A ! ■■ f - 'J ■ TOtm TO VANCOUVER. 125 off his shoes and stockings, and threw them into the river, keeping on his pantaloons, coat and cap. He then deliberately plunged himself into the stream, and was carried violently down the dashing current. Having learned to swim in his youth, he kept his head above the water for some time, and appeared to be nearing the shore. Eiken pursued him down as fast as he could, but could not keep up with him, such was the rapidity of the current. As he was borne downward a large log which extended into the stream, hid him from iSiken's view. Previously to this, his motion in the water be- came more irregular, and he appeared to have turned himself on his back, and to have thrown up his hands as in the attitude of prayer, or calling for help. He had then doubtless given up all hopes of making the shore, and was committing nirtiself into the hands of his God. Be this as it may, when Eiken succeeded in getting round the log so that he could command a view of the river below, our beloved associate, friend, and father, had passed forever from the view of mortals. These facts coming to my ears under the circumstan- ces already described, for awhile weighed down my spirits, but a few hours of refreshing slumber after midnight, quieted my nerves, and the next morning found me prfepared to resume my toils and exposures. My visitor in camp, continued with me for a couple of hours, aiid after refreshing himself from my almost ex- hausted stores, observed that he was in a great hurry to get down to the mouth of the Columbia river to secure a piece of land which still remained unoccupied, and this explained his running in the night. He had been in the country about two years, and as there had been many reports in circulation concerning him, I resolved to avail myself of the opportunity thus afforded me to obtain from himself some facts in relation to his history. " I once, " said he, " saw a book which was entitled, * The last of the Mohicans ; ' but I could tell the author a different story from that." In answer to my inquiries, I learned from* him the folbwing particulars. He was born in New* Engfohd, and his father being a white r, p-j 136 TOUR TO VANCOUVER. mail) he was therefore a proper yankee. His mother was an Indian woman, a relic of the Mohican tribe, and he was therefore a Mohican. He grew up to manhood in company with a brother of his, received a tolerably food English education, and was known by the name of . L. M. Cooper. He and his brother, sick of the pre- judices existing against them in their own country, re- solved upon going to sea. They accordingly shipped on board a trading vessel bound to the Pacific, and after a voyage of several months, found themselves collecting Spanish hides, on the coast of California. Not liking the business very well, and finding themselves in a country where they would Uke to remain, they resolved, when the vessel was about to leave, to desert her, and take up their residence in California. They succeeded in their designs, but ha heard above the 'roar of the angry flood — they had made the fatal plunge. Some of their bodies were seen a short tifne, floating beiow the falls, but before they could -possibly be approached with a boat, they had all sunk inta their watery graves. Thus terminated the mortal career of Esq. Crocker, Cornelius Rogers, his wife and her Httle sister, and two Indians. The remains of the first two were subsequently recovered, and committed to the earth; the others have never been found. If by some awful convulsion in nature the whole city of New York were to be submerged beneath the waves of the Atlantic ocean, the shock to the State could not be greater than was: felt in the colony of Oregon, when the mission canoe, with her precious cargo, went over the falls. This «wful •{ 140 TOUR TO VANCOUV3R. Sunday, 13th. I preached to about twenty Americans of different ages, from the invitation of Christ to those who labor and are heavy laden, and rejoiced in the con- sideration that there is rest in Christ. Monday, 14th. Attended to the duties imposed upon me in relation to Mr. Rogers' estate, in connexion with W. H. Gray arid Robert Shortess. Found the estate to be worth fifteen hundred dollars, and the liabilities to amount to seven hundred. Ascertained that the heirs of Mr. Rogers reside in Utica, State of New York. Tuesday, 15th. Having accomplished our business, we left the falls at two> i*. m., and returned to our canoe, where we encamped Tor the night. The river had con- tinued to rise until it was higher than it had been known for thirty years, and we knew it would be almost impos- sible to ascend with our canoe, yet there was no alter- native. The banks were overflown, and we were obliged to pull ourselves up the river by the bushes and trees on the "hore, as, the moment our canoe was outside the the bushes, in spite of the combined strength of bix men with their paddles, she would run astern. Toiling for seven hottrs, without cessation, except to take two rac- coons out of a hollow tree, where they had been driven by the flood, we found that we had ascended three miles only, and being above the mouth of Pudding river, we concluded to ^^ cache ^^ our canoe in the bushes, and try the rest of the way on foot. We found ourselves in a dense forest, but striking a bee line towards the south-east, after traveling some miles we struck the trail leading from the settlement to the falls, and at dark arrived at the house of a French- man near the Butte, and about three miles below Cham- poeg. Having no provision, I procured of the Frenchman a supper of fried venison, and a cup of tea, for which, with the privilege of furnishing a supper for ten thousand fleas, he charged me one dollar. It was the first bill of the kind I paid in Oregon, the people generally being quite hospitable. Next morning procceeded to Champoeg and found our TOUR TO VANCOUVER. 141 irusty horses not far from where we turned them loose. The water had risen to an amazing height ; farms were swept of their fences, and farmers suffered heavy losses in grain, the water rising several feet deep in some of their barns. Thomas McKay had recently built a large grist mill, and an old gentlemen by the name of Canning was tending the mill. In the morning when he awoke, as he slept m the mill, in the second story, the mill was standing in the centre of a large lake. Some persons at a distance, supposing that Canning must be in a perilous condition, procured a canoe, and sailing high over fields, fences, logs, &c., soon arrived at the mill, and running their canoe into the window of the second story, found Canning perched upon a high box, in one corner of the mill, awaiting some one to rescue him from his danger. No essential damage was done the mill, but several hun- dred bushels of wheat were lost. The flood coming so suddenly upon the valley, the herds on the bottom lands had not time to make their escape. Horses, cattle, hogs, &c., were swept away and drowned. This was a high flood, but from the appearattoe of the country, I am persuaded that it is subject to stm greater inundations. Recovering our horses, we left Champoeg in the after- noon, and arrived at our homes the following evening, relieving our families from the painful anxiety into which they had been thrown for our safety in consequence of our exposure to the fiood. *Si 11 rfi ti^ <■( T ■(■ > I » I' ,^' \- .|i >4i CHAPTER IX. •1, ', <:t!, '"i-t Panic — Ind w.n troubles — Tour to the Interior — CauMa — Precaationa -• Excitement increasea — Mr. Brewer's letter — The Sub> Agent — Expedition reaolved upon — Opposed by Dr. McLaughlin •— Departure — A aquall — Ascent of the Columbia — Mount Hood — Romantic scenery — Sabbath encampment — Reflections — Remarkable rocks — Cascades — How formed — Indian tradition confirmed — La Dallas — Canasisiia — Negotiation — De Shules — John Day — Sabbath Re- flections — Arrival at Dr. Whitman's — Interview with the Kayuse chiefs — Excursion — Adventure of Mr. Perkins — Party proceeds — Snake river — Red wolf— Laperai — Accident — Grotesque exhibition — Temperance training — Rev. Mr. and Mrs, Spaulding — Return to Dr. Whitman's — Interesting negotia- tion—Closing feast — Ilomoward — Story of the Walla-Walla chief — Peter Ogden — Arrival home. <'i' ■■■ -■ ' ■ ■ ■ ^ •' ' April 14. This settlement has been thrown into a panic by intelligence which has just been received from the upper cotiiitiry, concerninff the hostile intentions of the Kayuse, Nez rerce, and Walla- Walla Indians. It appears that they have again threatened the destruction of the whites. Some time in October last, Indian report sjid that these tribes were coming down to kill off the Bosto.i people, meaning those from the United States. This intelligence produced considerable excitement at the time, and induced the sub-agent of Indian Affairs to go directly to the upper country and ascertain the truth of the report, and if possible settle all matters of difficulty. On arriving among the Indians, he ascertained that the report was not without foundation ; but entered into such arrangements with them as appeared to give satisfaction. Thomas McKay contributed much to allay the excite- ment among them, and in connexion with the sub-agent, induced the Nez Perces to adopt a code of laws, and appoint a head chief and inferior chiefs, sufficient to carry the laws into execution. It had been the policy of the Hudson's Bay Company to destroy the chieftainship, TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. 143 cut the diflferent tribes into smaller clans, and divide their interests as far as posssible so as to lyeaken them, and render them incapable of injuring the whites, by pre- venting them from acting in concert. But the sub-agent adopted a different policy. The individual appointed to the high chieftainship over the Nez Perces, was one Ellis, as he was called by the English, who, having spent several years in the settlement on the Red river, east of the mountains, had, with a smattering of the English language, acquired a high sense of his own importance ; and consequently, after he was appointed chief, pursued a very haughty and overbearing course. The fulfillment of the laws which the agent recommended for their adoption, was required by Ellis with the utmost rigor. Individuals were severely punished for crimes which, from time immemorial, had been committed by the people with impunity. This occasioned suspicions in the minds of the Indians generally, that the whites de- signed the ultimate subjugation of their tribes. They saw in the laws they had adopted, a deep-laid scheme of the whites to destroy them, and take possession of their country. The arrival of a large party of emigrants about this time, and the sudden departure of Dr. Whit- man to the United States, with the avowed intention of bringing back with him as many as he could enlist for Oregon, served to hasten them to the above conclusion. That a gr^at excitement existed among the Indians in the interior, and that they designed to make war upon the settlement, was only known to the whites through the medium of vague report, until a letter was received from H. K. W. Perkins, at the Dalls, in which he informed us that the Wascopam and Walla- Walla Indians had communicated to him in substance the following inform- ation : that the Indians are very much exasperated against the white " in consequence of so many of the latter coming into the country, to destroy their game, and take away their lands ; that the Nez Perces dis- patched one 01 their chiefs last winter on snow shoes, to visit the Indians in the buffalo country east of Fort Hall, for the purpose of exciting them to cut off the party I; -t4 f! 144 TOUR TO THB INTERIOR. II that it is expected Dr. Whitman will bring back with him to settle ,the Nez Perce country ; that the Indians are endeavoring to form a general coalition for the pur- pose of destroying all the Boston people : that it is not good to kill a part of them, and leave the rest, but that every one of them must be destroyed. This information produced a great excitement throughout the community, and almost every man had a plan of his own by which to avert ♦iie impending storm. In the estimation of some, the Indians were to be upon us immediatelv, and it was unsafe to retire at night, for fear the settlement would be attacked before morning. The plan of the agent was to induce men to pledge themselves, under the forfeiture of one hundred dollars in case of delinquency, to keep constantly on hand, and ready for use, either a good musket or a rifle, and one hundred charges of ammuni- tion, and to hold themselves in readiness to go at the call of the agent to any part of the country, not to exceed two days travel, for the purpose of defending the settle- ment, and repelling any savage invaders. This plan pleased some of the people, and they put down their names ; but many were much dissatisfied with it, and as we had no authority, no law, no order, for the time being, in the country, it was impossible to tell what would be the result, if the Indians should attempt to carry their threats into execution. April 14th. Information was brought to the settle- ment from the Klackamas tribe of Indians, who live three miles below the falls of the Wallamette, which served to increase the excitement occasioned by the reports from the interior. It appears that an Indian of the Molala tribe, connected with the Klackamas Indians by marriage, stole a horse from a man by the name of Anderson, and when asked by the latter if he had stolen his horse and rode him off, answered, " Yes, I stole your horse, and when I want another one I shall steal him also." To this Anderson repUed, " If you stole my horse you must pay me for him." " Yes," said the Indian, " I will pay you for him, take that horse," pointing to a very poor horse which stood near by, with one eye out, and a very TbVR TO THE INTERIOR. 145 sore back. Anderson replied, " That is a very poor horse and mine was a very cood one; I shall notlai|ie him, and if you don't bring Inm back I will n^ort ^jfOu to Dr. White." "I am not afraid of Dr. White," said the Indian, " let him come if he wants to, and bring the Boston people with him; he will find me prepared for him." Anderson not being able to effect a settlement with the- Indian, immediately reported him to the agent, whereupon the latter wrote to a man at the falls by the name of Campbell, to take a sufficient number of men armed with muskets, and ao very early in the morning to the Indian camp, and take the horse-thief a prisoner^ and bring him up to the falls. Accordingly, Campbell procured five men, and went to the camp as commanded, but found thirty or forty Indians painted in the most hideous manner, and armed with muskets, bows and arrows, tomahawks, and scalping knives, and determined at all events to protect the horse-thief, and drive back those that should come to take him^ Campb&H rushed on to take the rogue, but met with such resistance from superiority of numbers, and finding that the enterprise, if urged forward, would terminate in bloodshed, if not in the loss of all their lives, sounded a retreat, and extri- cating hknself from the Indians, returned to the falls. He communicated the results of his attempt to Dr. White, and the Doctor started off immediately in com- pany with G. W. Le Breton, resolved to capture the thief and bring the tribe to terms. April 17th. The excitement still continued, former reports having been confirmed, and all were engaged in repairing guns, and securing ammunition. A report was in circulation that Dr. McLaughlin refused to grant sup- plies for any consideration to all those persons who sub- scribed the memorial praying the Congress of the United States to extend jurisdiction over Oregon. If this be so, the American population, as nearly all signed the memo- rial, will not be able to obtain ammunition, however necessary it may be, as there is none in the country except what may be found within the stockades of Van- ittr '(!! •lifc 146 TOUR TO THS INTKRJOR. % couver. I think, however, that the report is false Report sai^furtherfnore, that the Klilcitat Indians are collecting l^th|f: back of the Tuahty plains, but for what purpose is not known. The people on the plains, consisting of about thirty families, are quite alarmed. There is also a move among the Calapooahs. Shoefon, one of the principal men of the tribe, left this place a few days ago, and crossed the Wallamette river, declar- ing that ae would never return until he came with a band of men to drive off the Boston people. He was very much offended because some of his peqple were seized and flogged, through the influence ot Dr. White, for having stolen horses from some of the missionaries, and flour from the mission mill. His influence is not very extensive among the Indians or we might have much to fear. The colony is indeed in a most defence- less condition; two hundred Indians, divided into four bands, might destroy the entire settlement in one night. In the evening of the 17th, Dr. White arrived at my house bringing intelligence from the falls. He and Mr. Le Breton attempted to go to the falls on horseback, but in trying to ford Haunchauke river, they found the water so deep that they were obliged to swim, and the Doctor turned his horse's head, and came out the' side he went in; but Le Breton, being the better mounted of the two, succeeded in gaining the opposite shore; and having the Doctor's letters in his possession, continued -on to the fails. The Doctor returned to the settlement. Le Breton returned the following day, and brought information from the five men who attempted to take the Indian who had stolen Anderson's horse, that soon after their retreat the Indians became alarmed and broke up in great haste; but before they left, they informed Anderson that the horse they had stolen from him was worn out and good for nothing, and tying a good horse to a tree near An- derson's house, they told him that he must take that and be satisfied. They then hurried away, saying that they should not be seen in that region again. It was ascer- tained that the Klackamas Indians had nothing to do with the stolen horse; that it was a band of the Molalas, the very sam before, ai weeks, house, w one man grim lool On th< settlemei brings th This let< much of up witho tie does toward t themselv fear. A tober, U Indians tenth of excitem* dians, h( among 1 minecTtc The g ton peoj them to White 1: understs great e siderabl other w them t( people. Walla 1 state of would to meei probab: to tak( opinior TOtm TO THE INTERIOR. 14*5^ ilse are for ainS) ned. fon, ce a clar- h a was vere very same rascals thai stole a horse from me two yearf before, and after having him in their posscision several weeks, brought him down within a iew miles of^pv house, where they encamped, and where I went with one man and took him from the midst of more than fifty grim looking savages. On the 20th of April, a letter was received in the settlement, written by H. B. Brewer, at the Dalls, which brings the latest intelligence from the infected region. This letter states that the Indians in the interior talk much of war, and Mr. Brewer urges Dr. White to come up without delay, and endeavor to allay the excitement He does not inform us that the Indians design any «vil toward the whites, but says that the war is to oe between themselves, but that the Boston people have much to fear. As the Doctor, in his visit to the interior last Oc- tober, left an appointment to meet the Walla- Walla Indians and the Kayuses, in their own country, on the tenth of May, and believing that a great share of the excitement originated in a misunderstanding of the In- dians, he came to the C'Onclusion at all hazards to go among them. At the solicitation of the agent, I deter- minea to accompany him on the expedition. The great complaint of the Indians was that the Bos- ton people designed to take away their lands, and reduce them to slavery. This they had inferred from what Dr. White had told them in his previous visit; and this mis- understanding of the Indians had not only produced a great excitement among them,-^ut had occasioned con- siderable trouble betwixt them and the missionaries and other whites in the upper country, as well as influencing them to threaten the destruction of all the American people. Individuals had come down from fort Walla- Walla to Vancouver, bringing -information of the excited state of things among the Indians, and giving out that it would be extremely dangerous for Dr. White to go up to meet his engagements. Their opinion was, that in all probability he and the party which he might think proper to take with him, would be cut off. But it was the opinion of many judicious persons in the settlement, that ..JL «4 148 TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. -y- "S^ th« welfare of the Indians, and the peace and security of the whites, demanded that some persons qualified to nefl|tiate with tiv^ Indians, should proceed immediately to tne scene of disaffection, and if possible remove the cause of the excitement by correcting the error under which the Indians laborecl. Accordingly, Dr. White engaged twelve men besides myself, mostly French Can- adians who had had much experience with Indians, to go with him; but a few days before the time fixed upoo to start had arrived, they all sent him word that they had decided not to go. They were doubtless induced. to pursue this course through the influence of Dr. Mc. Laughlin, and the Catholic priests. «• When the day arrived for starting, we found ourselyes abandoned by every person who had engaged to go, except Mr. G. W. Le Breton, an American, one Indian boy, and one Kanaka. With the two latter the Doc- tor and myself left the Wallamette settlement on the twenty-fifth of April, 1843, and proceieded on horseback to the Butte, where we found Le Breton in waiting for us. He had provided a canoe and a few pieces of pork and beef for our use on the vbgage. Here we met a letter from Dr. John Mc Laughlin, at Vancouver, discouraging us from our undertaking in view of the difficulties and dangers attending such an expedition; but we had counted the cost, and were not to be diverted from our purpose, though dangers stared us in the face. We supposed that if the Indians enter- tained any hostile intentions against the whites in gen- eral, there could be no better way to defeat tneir purposes than to go among them; convince them that they had no grounds of fear; and that the whites, instead of designing to bring them into subjection, were desirous of doing them good. Prevented by one thing and another from setting sail, on the night of the twenty- SQventh we slept on a bank of sand at the Butte, and next day proceeded in our little canoe down to the Wal- lametie falls, where-we continued until the twenty-ninth. Here we received another package from Dr. Mc Laugh- lin, giving us information that Rev. Mr. De Merce, a -Ca- wisp tOt/R TO THE INTKRIOR. 140 tholic priest, had just come down from the upper country, bringing hitelligenee that the Indians are only incensed against the Boston people; that they have notliing agflhst the French and King George people; they are not mad at them, but are determined that the Boston people shall not have their lands, and take away their liberties. On receiving this intelligence from Mr. De Merce, Dr. Mc Lau^hlin advised the Frenchman who had engaged to go with Dr. White, to have nothing to do witn the quarrel, to remain quiet at home, and let the Americans take care of themselves. He alse expressed, in his let- ter, the opinion that all the people should remain quiet, and in all probability the excitement among the Indians would soon subside. Not seeing sufficient reason to change our course, on the morning of the 28th, we left our hospitable friends at the Falls, and continued our course down the Walla- mette towards Vfmcouver. At noon we had sailed twenty miles, and stopped for dinner within five miles of the mouth of the Wallamette, on a low piece of ground, overgrown with luxuriant grass, but which is always overflown at the rise of the Columbia, which is about the first of June. " Weighed anchor " after dinner, and at four o'clock, p. m., arrived at Vancouver. Called on Dr. Mc Laughlin for goods, provisions, powder, balls, &c., for our accommodation on our voyage up the Co- lumbia, and, though he was greatly surprised that, under the circumstances, we should think of going among those excited Indians, yet he ordered his clerks to let us have whatever we wanted. However, we found it rather squally at the fort, not so much on account of our going among the Indians of the interior, as in consequence of a certain memorial having been sent to the United States' Congress, implicating the conduct of Dr. Mc Laughlin and the Hudson's Bay Company, and bearing the signa- tures of seventy Americans. I inquired of the Doctor if jie had refused to grant supplies to those Americans who had signed that document; he replied that he had not, but tha,t the authors of the memoriai need expect no more favors from him. Not being one of the authors. 160 tOtJR VO tHfi INTfiRIOft* 't' ^' .35 but merely a signer of the petition,, I did not come under th^ban of the company; cdnaequently I obftiined my oiflt for the expedition^ though at first there were strong indications that I would be refused. We remained at the fort over night and a part of the next day, and after a close conversation with the gentle- man in command, were treated with great courtesy. At two o'clock, p. M., of Saturday 39th, left, and con- tinued our voyage up the Columbia. As we proceeded from the fort, mount Hood appeared directly oefore us. Though this mountain is twenty-five miles from the river, and more than forty from Vancouver, yet it ap- ])eared to be not more than five or six miles distant. There are few things, perhaps, in the world, that com- bine more grandeur and sublimity in their appearance than this stupendous gladier viewed from the surface of the Columbia river. The Alleghany and Katskill moun- tains are but mounds when comparea with this astonishing pile of Basalt, whose head i» lifted to the amazing hight of sixteen thousand feet, and whitened with perpetual snow. We feasted our eyes uppn this sublime spectacle until the sun had bidden us good night, and the shades of evening had thrown a dark mantle around the enchanting scenery; then mooring our canoe in a little eddy, we made our encampment for the Sabbath on a small island about ten miles above Vancouver, which is evidently laid under contribution by the Columbia every succeeding June, but which, at this time, was fifteen feet higher than the waters of the river. A canoe coixtaining seven Indians, left the fort with us, and as we were short of help, one of the Indians engaged, for the consideration of a blanket and one shirt, to take the stern of our canoe, and assist us up to the Dalls. These Indians belonged to the Wascopam tribe, and most of them profess to have been converted to Christianity through the labors of Rev. Daniel Lee, and Rev. H. K.. W. Perkins. We all en- camped in the same place, and when the time for evening prayers arrived, the Indiana all joined us with apparent sincerity and devotion, after which we committed our- seiv«a to sleep on our blanket beds upon the ground. TOUR TO THB INTERIOR. 161 leven •t of ition Af%er a comfortable night's r^st, we arose and enjoyed our huniile repast, conmstin^ of ham, bread, butter and tea. We prepared to spend the sacred day as profiti^l> as we could, though in the lonely solitudes of a dense forest of Cottonwood, on the banks of the Columbia. We engaged in a season of reading the scriptures, sing- ing, and prayer, after which I endeavoflsd to give our Neophytes a lesson concerning the things which belong to their peace. This done, I stroHed along the bapks of the river about one-fourth of a mile^ for the purpose of being alone, and coming to a wild appletree which leaned its trunk over the smooth surface of the waters, I seated myself upon it, and a train of refl'^ctions, varying In their influence upon my feelings as they differed in cha- racter, passed through my mind. ' t I thought of beloved parents from whom I had not heard for years; of the tears they shed when last I saw them, and received the parting benediction, and of the anxiety they must still feel, if alive, for their wandering son. I thought of all my former associates, of brothers and sisters, and early scnool mates, and christian friends, with whom I had taken sweet counsel, . and walked to the house of God, and who, if they had not forgotten me, would ask, " Where is he 1 and what is his employ- ment f' I thought of everything of interest in my native land; of bustling cities, with whe rattling and hoofs clattering over their pavements; of smiling villages and towns, with their splendid turnpikes and McAdam- ized roads; of railroad cars and steamboats ; of temples erected to the God of heaven; the toll of chiming bells as they informed the waiting thousands tha*. the time of wor- ship had arrived; of crowded assemblies listening to the messengers of Jesus; and of. saints rejoicing, and altars thronged with mourning penitents. Contmuing these reflections until my mind experienced u kind of abstrac- tion from the objects surrounding me, I fancied myself really amidst the scenes, the contemplation of which had produced this pleasing illusion, and starting up I found myself suiToundfcd with thu Mhfi^n of diaath, save tb# m»niiimng of ito tnvfoid waters tff the Cokuniaa timt A- I :hm, -$M 152 TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. I \i I? I*. roHed beneath where I sat G^ptrasting the land which bad passed before my mentail vi^n with that iti which I feit%iyself a volual8|ry exile, I exclaimed, how changed the scene ! This, mbught I, is truly a land of darkness. Amidst the solitudes of theffe forests and plains the gos- pel is never heard except perchance the missionary of tire cross mav lie passing through the land, and then to but here land there a small groop of wretched Indians, who are alternately shivering with ague, and burning with fever, upon the brink of death. I was led to inquire^ -when shall this state of things give way to civil- ization and Christianity ? when shall " the sound of the church-going bell" be heard among these mountains and over these plains] When shall the banks of this noble river be studded with cities and villages, with the tem- ples of Jehovah, whose steeples blazing in the sunlight, shall tell the tt*aveler that God is worshiped here T And I. fancied this response came back to my inquiries r not until the present race shall have gone to the graves of their fathers, and others shaU rise to take their place. 'Returning to the camp we sat down upon the ground to a dinner which the Doctor's Kanaka, John, and my Indian boy, Sampson, had. prepared for us. Towards evening the Doctor and myself .talked leisurly into the thickest of the forest, towards the centre of the Island, and seating ourselves upon a log, talked of by-gone days, raised a song of praise to the Kedeemer, and upon our knees offered up a tribute of thanksgiving for the past, and invoked the Divine blessing on our future course. Monday, May 1st. At sunrise proceeded on our voy- age, and were much delighted with the magnificent scene>y on the shores of the great Columbia. At eight o'clock passed the Prairie Du — > y which lies on the north side of the river. This is a low, wet prairie, with but little land which will admit of cultivation, but well adapted to grazing purposes. As we proceeded, the land next to the river became more uneven, the shores more rocky and abrupt, and at length we found ourselves crawling along at the, base of a frowning precipice of rocks, rising more than three hundred feet perpendiculai ^li TOUR TO THIS iNTfiRloR. 153 over our heads. A little farther on and huge maases of Basalt appeared thrown together in the wildest con- fusion, and these would be succeeded by another frightful precipice, causing one involuntarily to cringe while look- ing upward towards its dizzy height From the top, as if to add beauty to terror, came leaping down a limpid brook, which lost itself in spray, long before it reached the bottom ; and then again large fir-trees, stuck upon the top of the rock three or four hundred feet directly over our heads, and leaning their waving tops far over the rolling waters, would seem to look down upon us with the most threatening aspect. Conical formations of rocks from thirty to one hundred feet high appeared, peering up out of the water, resembling in form the huge Imy-stacks of a Connecticut farmer. As we passed along at the base of these grand abutments of nature, swarms of swallows far above our heads, were delight- fully playing around the holes and crevices of the preci- pice, in which they had built their nests. At twelve o'clock, we passed a low point of land which has received the name of Cape Horn, in conse- quence of the difficulty of the navigation of this part of the river arising from the strength of wind which gene- rally prevails here. Often, when it is safe running on all other parts of the river, canoes, on arriving here, are obliged to lie hy, sometimes for days, before they can possibly pass this point. Indeed, the Cape Horn of the Columbia is more difficult to double with the pigmy craft which is used on this river, than the stormy cape bearing the same name at the southern extremity of Terra del Fuego. A few miles above Cape Horn, we came to a huge rock, which is justly considered a great curiosity. The mountains at this place retire about one half mile from the river, and this rock is situated midway between the river and the mountain. In form it is nearly round ; is about twenty-five rods in diameter at its base, and rises perpendicularly on all sides to the height of at least one hundred and fifty feet. It then assumes a conical form, and gradudly aiminishes in size till it Hues scmie two 7 154 TOUR TO THE INTERIOR* hundred feet more, and then presents to the heavens a broken surface of several rods in diameter, beautifully ornamented v ith a luxuriant erov^^th of variegated ever- greens^. Passing this stupendous monument reared by nature's hands in mockery of the works of art, we arrived at the cascades at sundown, and camped for the night, after having run a hair-breadth lUk of losing our canoe and all our baggage, at one of ; h j violent rapids below the cascades. Our men, consisting of two Indians and one Kaneika, were cordelling our canoe up the rapid; and coming round a point of rocks, it took a sheer out into the strongest part of the current, and began directly to fill with water. My Indian boy, Sampson, was the only one that had hold of the rope, and such was the strength of the current against the canoe, that he could not hold on to the rope with his hands ; and being about to be pulled from the rocks into the river, he grasped the rope between his teeth, and falling down upon the rocks, held fast to them with his hands, and in that man- ner succeeded in bringing the canoe back to the shore, with no other damage being done, than the wetting of our provisions and bedding. When we retired to rest, wrapped in our wet blankets, we were reminded of a little incident in the experience of Mr. Townsend, a naturalist, who traveled down this river several years before. It had rained severely all day, and every article he had, bedding, wardrobe, pro- visions and all, were thoroughly drenched. He rolled himself in his wet blankets and lay down to sleep, think- ing of the last words of his dying grandmother, " Be careful and never sleep in damp sheets." Tuesday, 2d. From the effects of the wind upon the the water and the sand, filling the air with the latter as snow in a February storm in Western New York, and raising the former into high waves, we were obliged to lie quiet in our camp. Occasionally, however, we ven- tured out to the shore of the Columbia, contemplating her majesty, as she pours her exhaustless flood down ^e ledge of rocks which forms the beautiful cascades. The river here falls in continued rapids for three miles, TOUR TO THfi INTERIOR. 155 not less than fifty feet. That portion of the rapids properly called the cascades, presents an appearance of grandeur and sublimity not inferior to that of the rapids ^ of the Niagara river, above the great cataract. At this place the Columbia rushes through the cascade range of mountains, and the channel through which it pours its* mighty torrent, appears not more tnan thirty rods wide, while each shore presents indubitable evidence that, by a vast accumulation of water above, these mountain barriers were torn cssunder, and thus this mighty river found its way to the Pacific ocean. The Indians here have a tradition that, a long time ago, the mountain was joined together over the river, and that the river per- formed a subterraneous passage for some distance, with a slow current, and that their people used to pass up and down with their canoes without difficulty ; but all at once the foundations of this mighty arch crumbled beneath their ponderous weight, and the whole mass came tumbling into the river, filling up the channel and quite damming up the stream, and thus were formed the beautiful cascades. The probability is that this tradition is true only in part. Doubtless the time was when there were no cascades here, anrl they were probably formed by the mountain's sliding into the river in tremendous avalanches, and thus filling up the channel. The land on each side of the river at this place is rough and sterile, and the scenery wild beyond description. The cascades are fifty miles above Vancouver, and one hun- dred and forty-five from the mouth of the Columbia. At three, p. m., the wind lulling, we proceeded up ten miles and camped for the night, which was exceedingly windy, with some rain. Found the river wide above the cascades, with little current, and, from appearances, were convinced that the Indian tradition concerning the falling in of the mountain, is not without foundation. The original channel appears to have been very narrow, compared with the present width of the river. Forests which were situated on its former banks, have been overflown, and a vast number of stumps and trees which have not yet wasted away, stand in the present bed of the stream . v^ >5v . . ■ \n :,';■ M. ' tm ravm to tub intbrios. Wednesday, 3d. Continued our voyage, but at noon were obliged to lay by in consequence of the rise of the wind. Anxious to make headway, we continued out after the wind had increased to a strong gale. We passed a number of dangerous points, where the shore was pre- cipitous and " iron bound ;" but the wind being directly astern, and having a blanket rigged for a sail, we darted past them like an arrow, thougn the waves ran so high that they threatened every moment to engulph us. In passing the last point before we came to shore, we run a very great hazard of losing our canoe and baggage, if not our lives. A canoe much larger than ours, with five Indians, had just passed the point, and barelv es- caped. Running their canoe into a little bay just above, they hurried back along the shore, and arrived at the point just as we did, expecting to see our little canoe driven against the shelving rocks, by the violence of the winds and waves, and dashed to pieces. But with ama- zing swiftness, and in fearful proximity, we shot by the dangerous point, realizing no other damage than a wet- ting, and a fright. As for myself, when we were tossed in our feather-like craft over these Atlantic waves, and driven with such violence so near the frowning rocks that I could touch them with my hand as we were shooting by, and my heart beating so violently that it sounded like the grunting of a black grouse in the top of a fir-tree, I thought I had much rather be on terra firma; so, mooring our canoe in a little cove, we waited for the wind to mil. Resuming our voyage towards evening, we ran a few miles, and camped for the night. Thursday, 4th. Arrived at the Dalls, and f^und our friends well and prospering. Here reside Rev. Daniel Lee, one of the pioneer missionaries to Oregon, Rev. H. K. W. Perkins, and Mr. H. B. Brewer. They are laboring to establish a permanent mission at this place for the benefit of the Indians, but with doubtful success. The country around is much better than I expected to find. In the vicinity of the mimion the land is ex- ceedingly fertile, and tiie scenery is nuMt delightful. Soon after we arrived, about twenty Indians came to TmrR «) THE INTGR10II. HK the house of Mr. Brewer, where we stopped, to have a talk with Dr. White. When he was up the Winter be- fore, he prevailed on these Indians to organize themselves into a kind of government. One high chief, and three subordinates were elected ; laws were enacted, and the penalties annexed werj whippings more or less severe, according to the nature of the crime. The chiefs had found much difficulty in enforcing the laws. In punishing delinquents some of the Indians resisting, even to the point of the knife. The chiefs, who were appointed through the influenoe of Dr. White, were desirous that these regulations should continue, evidently because they placed the people under their absolute control, and gave them the power to regu- late all their intercourse with the whites, and with the other Indian tribes. But the other influential men who were not in office, desired to know of Dr. White, of what benefit this whipping system was going to be to them. They said they were willing it should continue, provided they were to receive blankets, shirts and {Mints, as a reward for being whipped. They had been whipped a good many times, and tiad got nothing for it, and it had done them no ffood. If this state of things was to continue, it was all {cultus) good for nothing, -and they would 'throw it all away. In reply they were told by the Doctor that we could not be detained to settle any of their difficulties now ; that we were going far- ther into the interior, and were in a very great hurry ; and that when we returned he would endeavor to make all stra*ght. But he wished them to understand that they need not expect pay for being flogged, when they deserved it. They laughed heartily at the idea, and dispersed, giving us an opportunity to make arrangements for the continuance of our journey. We left our canoe at the Dalls in the care of an In- dian, and engaged eight horses of an old Indian, by the name of Canasissa, who was to bring them to us the following morning. Friday, 5th. Canasissa arrived early in the morning, and coming to us with a very long face, inquired what ;;« li- r s- 1^ " : J (•■^ r: 4 158 TOUR TO TUB INTERIOR. we were going to give him to accompany us, as he wished to see that the horses were well used. The Doctor replied, " You are a very old man ; the journey is long, and the Indians are very silexy (angry); you may get into difficulty ; you had better stay at home." Still Canasissa insisted on going, but was told that if he went he must go for nothing. He then said that he had brought but seven horses, and thought that we did not cive only enough to pay for the seven, but he should nave brought the eighth if he could have found it. He was told that we must have the eighth. " Yes," said Canasissa, "You may have the eightn, if you will give me one blanket more in addition to what you were to give me." But we peremptorily refused to take any without the whole, according to agreement ; and went about negotiating with another Indian to supply us with horses. When Canasissa saw that we were about to succeed with the other one, he altered his tone, and came up to us saving that it was very good for us not to pay another bfanket ; that he would bring the other horse, and would go with us himself. Taking him at his offer, we made arrangements also with Rev. H. K. W. Perkins to accompany us. Horses ready, saddles all on, and bridles, consisting of hide-rope, tied to the horse's lower jaw, with our baggage, provisions, &c., packed on the backs of two of the horses, we mounted, and left the mission at eleven o'clock. Four miles brought us to the great Dalls, and here Canasissa brought us the eighth horse, and acknow- ledged that the object he had in view in not bringing it to us in the first place, was to extort from us an additional blanket, a trick quite characteristic of these Indians, who seem instinctively to embrace every oppor- tunity that presents itself, to overreach those who, in any measure, are dependent upon them. I was pecu- liarly struck, while we were negotiating with them, with their astonishing tact in cheating. As a matter of course, lying has much to do in their system of trade, and he is the best fellow who can tell the biggest lie, make men believe it, and practice the greatest deception. inf TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. 159 in A few years aeo a great religious excitement prevailed among these Indians, and nearly the whole tribe, con- flistinff of upwards of a thousand, professed to be con- verted, were baptized, and received into the christian church ; but they have nearly all relapsed into their former state, with the exception that many of them still keep up the outward forms of religion. Their religion appears to be more of the head than of the heart, and though they are exceedingly vicious, yet doubtless they would be much worse than they are but for the restrain- ing influences exerted upon them by the missionaries. They are known by the name of the Wasco Indians, and they call their country round the Dalls, Wascopam. They claim the country extending from the cascades up to the falls of the Columbia, the distance of about fifty miles. " La Dallas," or the narrows, as the word signi- fies in English, are somewhat remarkable. Here the Columbia suddenly contracts into a very narrow channel, and then rushes through a mighty gorge or chasm in the rocks, with fearful violence, in its passage tumbling and boiling and roaring, and ever and anon forming the most tremendous whirlpools. Yet the Hudson's Bay Com- pany's boats are frequently made to run these frightful narrows, and it is not uncommon for them to pay for their rashness with the loss of a boat, and a sacrifice of a number of their men. Just below the Dalls, where the current continues to be strong, is a little island, used by the Indians as a place of deposit for the dead. There is something peculiar in their manner of sepulture. The dead are taken to a small house, built on this island for the purpose, and laid in a pile around the inside of the house, the head next to the wall, and the feet towards the center of the building. Here hundreds have been depositee, forming a pile several feet high. The country around the Dalls is valuable, in conse- quence of its adaptation to grazing and farming purposes, and the extensive salmon fishery which might here be established. These Indians, with most of the tribes of Oregon, are destined to utter extinction, and the time jg f i(k> TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. not far distant when their country will be occupied by the descendants of the Pilgrims. At two o'clock, we left the Dalls, and seven miles brought us to the shoots, or falls of the Columbia, which at this stage of the water, are about ten feet perpendic- ular, but in June, when the river is high, the water sets back from the Dalls so that there are no falls to be seen. Arrived at the river " De Shoots " at five, p. m., ten miles above the Dalls, and three above the falls of the Columbia. This river rises amone the mountains which divide the Wallamette and the Walla- Walla countries, called the Cascade Range, and taking a north-easterly course and watering a fertile valley, it forms a number of beautiful cataracts and cascades, it falls into the Columbia one hundred and ninety miles from its mouth. Probably it derives its name from the fact that it pos- sesses numerous falls, and finally rushes down a \edse of rocks into the Columbia with great violence. We tound it very difliicuh to cross; but with the help of a few Walla- Walla Indians whom we' found here, and a couple of scoop-shovel canoes, we succeeded in crossing without accident, though, to the inexperienced, it would have been considered an enterprise of great peril. But the crossing was not so difficult as it was to satisfy the Indians who assisted us. They wanted all we had, even the clothes on our backs; but we paid them what we pleased, and repacking our animals, continued on five miles farther, camping for the night beside a small rivulet and under the lee of a sanddrift thirty feet high. Sometimes, in the valley of the Columbia, the wind is so strong that the sand is driven about like snow, the air is full of it, and woe be to the eyes that are compelled to meet the beating storm. ■ May 6th. Journeyed on, and at eleven, a. m., came to a stream of water which has received the name of John Day*s river. It is about twenty rods wide at its mouth, too deep to ford, but easily crossed by swiming, in consequence of its having but little current. It derived its cognomen from a remarkable circumstance in the historv of the gentleman whose name it bears. TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. ** 161 i. seen. John Day was a native of Kentucky, and though a man of some fortune, and considerable talents, and might have lived in affluence and ease in his native country, yet, from choice, he abandoned all the endearments of civilized life, and became a rambler in the savage wilds of the Rocky niountains and Oregon. When Wilson Price Hunt performed his astonishing journey from Mis- souri to the mouth of the Columbia river, John Day was one of his most faithful and persevering companions, and suffered with him the most surprising hardships. Excel- ling in the qualifications of a hunter, and faithful to the trusts committed to him, responsibilities were thrown upon him during that perilous journey which proved more than he was able to bear. At Astoria lie was appointed to accompany Robert Stewart back to Missouri, on busi- ness of importance, but had not proceeded far up the Columbia before he became restless and uneasy, and finally gave evident signs of insanity. On the evening of tne second of July, 1813, he attempted to destroy himself, but being disarmed, he sank into quiet and pro- fessed remorse. He pretended to sleep, but just before daylight he sprang up, siezed a pair of loaded pistols, and endeavored to blow out his own brains, but he held the pistols too high, and the balls passed over his head. He was then secured so that he could not harm him- self, and sent back to Astoria. This event happened in the vicinity of this river. He was taken back from this point in hopes that he might recover, but his consti- tution was entirely broken; he linffered for a number of months, and died, evidently from the effects of the hard- ships he had endured. Dined on the bank of this river, and conversed on the perilous adventures of the mountaineers; then resumed our wearisome journey, but found little to interest us, or to break the monotony of the scenery along the Colum- bia. In the afternoon, however, we were entertained with the appearance of a flock of sandhill cranes, num- bering, at least, two thousand, which passed directly over our heads, on their passage to the mouth. Two large rattlesnakes placed themselves in our path ; we 7* ^ ! 162 TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. t* . 11^, ■J- t : examined them for a moment, and then " bruised theii heads." A few small trees also, the like of which I hav# never seen in any country, were objects of curiosity We passed a few score of Indians during the day, bu they manifested no signs of hostility, and at night en camped for the Sabbath about midway between the Dalla and fort Walla- Walla. Sabbath, May 7th, was an exceedingly windy day, and we found it much more pleasant to continue in camp, than it would have been to travel. Indeed, I have sel- dom looked for the day of rest more anxiously than I did the last part of the week past. Though we made only about one hundred and fifty miles during the week, yet, from the constant labor resulting from our mode of traveling, we had become exceedingly fatieued, and the day in which we are to perform no bervile work, was most thankfully welcomed. Though we were doomed to spend it far from the abodes of civilized man, yet it brought with it the most delightful associations. It reminded me not only of the completion of the work of creation, when ths morning stars sang together, and all the sons of God shouted for joy, but my mind was car- ried back to him, who, " though he was rich, yet for our sakes became poor, that we through his poverty might be made rich." I saw him in my contemplations amidst all the scenes of labor and suffering through which he was called to pass. The garden of Gethsemene, the judgment hall, the bloody summit of Calvary, and the crimsoned cross, passed in review before me. I heard the Saviour of men, wW\\e his blood was pouring forth as from a high and loft^ altar to satisfy the demands of offended justice, when he looked around upon his mur- derers and cried out, "It is finished." It was not fancy; faith brought the Saviour near, and looked upon him when he bowed his head upon his breast and gave up the ghost. From the summit of the blood-stained mountains, I fol- lowed him to the sepulchre, and here I saw my Saviour under the dominion of the grave, a captive to the king of terrors. But the third morning drew near, and the sun that sat in blood, arose in glory. The crucified Re- L TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. 103 deemer, triumphant over death, and leading captivity captive, received gifts for men. ** He rises who mankind has bought. With sweat and blood extremo, 'Twas great to speak a world from nought, *Twas greater to redeem." Monday, 8th. Arose invigorated in body and mind, and invoking the Divine blessing upon us in our future trials, packed our animals and wound our way along up the numerous turns of the Columbia. The trail runs in the deep valley of the river along the shore; this makes the route quite uninteresting. The prospect is entirely broken off by the tremendous walls of Basalt, which tower from four to seven hundred feet on both sides of the river. When this wall approached the river so as not to admit of the trail passing between it and the water, we were obliged to climb this stupendous ledge, traveling for awhile upon its top, then clambering down among the rocks till we regained the lower valley. While doing this we sometimes take alarm from the fearful crash of a detached mass Of Basalt as it came leaping down from the summit of the precipice. This climbing, however, gave us an opportunity of seeing what the country is a little distance from the river. Nothing can exceed the barrenness of the land. Though the face of the country for a considerable distance from the river on each side, is agreeably diversified with hills and valleys, yet, as far as the eye can reach to the right and left, it is one continued desert of sand, gravel, and rocks. It is said that farther away from the river than we could see, the land is more fertile, and the grass abundant. Having traveled thirty-six miles over this dosert region, we stopped for the night on the banks of a beau- tiful stream called the Utilla. Here we found fifteen or twenty of the Walla- Walla Indians, exceedingly squallid in their appearance, and living on the fish they caught in the stream. These fish are a species of the salmon, and we succeeded in getting enougn for our supper and I*. 164 TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. li 1 1 * '1 ^ *^^: f. 1 %m I breakfast. The land on this river is more fertile, and grows better as you go up the stream. Next morning, at the rising of the sun, we left our attendants with the pack animals, and proceeded on ahead, determined, if possible, to reach the mission sta- tion at Waialetpu, on the Walla- Walla river, the same day. Passed Fort Walla- Walla at twelve, and arrived at Dr. Whitman's at five, having traveled fifty miles since we mounted in the morning. We were received with great cordiality by Mrs. Whitman and Mr. Gi^er, Dr. Whitnmn being absent on a tour to the United States. They had heard we were coming, and were looking for us with great anxiety. We soon learned that the reports in the lower country about war, that had produced such an excitement, were not without foundation : the Kayuse Indians, among whom this inission is established, had freely communicated to Mr. Giger, whom they esteemed as their friend, all they knew concerning it. When the Indians were first told that the Americans were designing to subjugate them, and take away their lands, the young chie£ of the Kayuse tribe were in favor of proceeding immediately to hostilities. They were for raising a large war party, and, rushing directly down to the Wallamette settlement, cut off the inhabit- ants at a blow. The old chiefs were of a different opinion ; they suggested more cautious measures. Ta- king into consideration, the difficulty, at that season of the year, of marching a large party the distance of three or four hundred miles through a wide range of mountains, covered with snow, they advised all the Indians to wait until they should obtain more information concerning the designs of the Americans. They also thought that it would not be wisdom in them, in any case, to commence an offensive war, but to prepare themselves for a vigorous defence against any attack. They frequently remarked .to Mr. Giger, that they did not wish to go to war, but if the Americans came to take away their lands, and bring them into a state of vassalage, they would fight so long as they had a drop "^t'yf TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. 165 le, and ft our led on on sta- same irrived miles ceived Giger, United were earned ir, tliat without n this to Mr. I they ericans y their 'ere in They irectly nhabit- fferent . Ta- son of ice of ige of Jl the nation y also n any •epare Itack. 3y did nrie to ite of I drop of blood to shed. They said they had received their information concerning the designs of the Americans from Baptiste Dorio. This individual, who is a half- breed, son of Madame Dorio, the heroine of Washington Irving's Astoria, understands the Nez Perce langauge well, and had given the Kayuses the information that had alarmed them. Mr. Giger endeavored to induce them to prepare, early in the i^pring, to cultivate the ground as they did the year before, but they refused to do any- thing, saying that Baptiste Dorio had told them that it would be of no consequence ; that the whites would come in the summer, and kill them all off, and destroy their plantations. After Dorio had told them this story, they sent a Walla- Walla chief, called Yellow Serpent, to Vancouver, to learn from Doctor McLeughlin the facts in the case. Yellow Serpent returned and told the Kayuses that Dr. McLaughlin said he had nothing to do in a war with the Indians ; that he did not believe trie Americans designed to attack them, and that, if the Americans did go to war with the Indians, the Hudson's Bay Company would not assist them. After they got this information from the hias (great) Doctor, the Indians became more calm ; many of them went to cultivating the ground as for- merly, and a large number of little patches had been planted and sown, before we arrived at the station. The Kayuses wove principally encamped a-">:.g the base of the Blue mountains, a few miles «'a ' Oi Dr. Whitman's house ; and after wc had obti \. all the information we could from Mrs. Whitman and Mr. Gi- ger, concerning the state of things among them, we sent them word that we had come, and desired to see them. We also sent the chiefs word that we desired them to make arrangements to have all their people meet us at the mission on the following Friday, to haA/^ a talk. The chiefs came to see us at Dr. Whitman's, and told the story of their grievances, and said that they desired to have the difficulty settled. They said it would not be convenient for the people to come together so soon t !i in 106 TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. Bt.« Pl • ,*p{-j, r iiii.'*' I i I as we desired, as many of them were off among the mountains, hunting elk. As they must be informed of the meeting, it would be several days before the people could get together. We ascertained!, however, that this was a mere pretence. They had been informed that Ellis, the Nez Perce chief, was coming down to meet us on their ground, and this had determined them not to have any meeting until Ellis should arrive. But as we had learned that Ellis was coming with his warriors, consisting of several hundred — ^for what purpose we could not ascertain, some saying to make war upon the Kayuses — we came to the conclusion that the meeting of the two tribes should, if possible, be prevented. While considering this subject, we were solicited by the chiefs to take a ride among the Indian plantations. Accordingly, a party was made out which would have made all the sacerdotal order laugh to contemplate. The captain of the party was a Kayuse chief, by the name of Feathercap : and of all the Indians I have seen he has a countenance the most savage. But, with this, there is a dignity and decision manifested in his move- ments, which might put many a white man to the blush. He is about five feet ten inches high ; has a voice of the stentorian order, and possesses all the native character- istics of an orator. His dress was quite fantastical, being composed of skin breeches, a striped shirt, which he wore over his breeches, and a scarlet coat, gilted off very much in the fashion of the regimentals of a British general. His head-dress was composed, first of a cotton handkerchief thrown loosely over his head, then a cap made of otter skin over the handkerchief, and on the top of the cap, fastened with savage taste, the long hair of a white horse's tail, which hung in ringlets down the backside of his neck. • Thus rigged, he was prepared to guide us on our tour of pleasure. An Indian woman and her daughter joined our party, of whom mention has been made in another part of this narrative. The old woman lived many years with Thomas McKay, but he finally cast her off, and she is now the wife of an old half-breed TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. 167 we the Iroquois, by the name of Jo-Gray. Her daughter is the wife of Charles Roe. They both live in the lower country, but were up on a visit to their relatives among the Indians. Their dresses were an imitation of the Boston fashions, but were much defiled by the smoke, dirt, and grease of wigwams. They were both astride their horses, the younger carrying her little son before her. There were also three other Indians, without note- worthy peculiarities. Mr. Giger, who is a small man, mounted a donkey which was about the size of a New- foundland dog, and exceedingly antic, just having re- cruited from a journey across the Rocky mountains. In addition to these, Mrs. Whitman, Dr. White and myself made up the party. Feathercap led us about one mile, across a low piece of fertile ground, when we arrived at the nearest plantations. We ascertained that about sixty of the Kayuses had commenced cultivating the ground. They each have fenced around a small piece of ground, from one-fourth of an acre, to three acres, and each one is entitled only to what he raises himself. They had in the ground wheat, com, peas and potatoes. Many of the places were well fenced and well cultivated, and the crops looked flourishing. The Indians appeared highly pleased that we went out to see their farms, and told us they were very glad that they had been learned to till the ground. They have already learned that theii livelihood, which previously was very precarious, by their little farms, is fully secured to them. This, they say, makes their hearts glad. Our motley party proceeded in high glee, alternately conversing in the English, Chenook, and Walla- Walla languages, and remarking upon whatever presented itself before us. The little man on the hias tenas (very little) mule, was the subject of much amusement with the Indians ; and in the novelty and excitemeiit of our little excursion, the subject of war and blood was entirely forgotten. We passed pleasantly along, now crossing a beautiful plain, blooming with flowers, which sent forth their rich odors upon the breeze ; now penetrating n 168 TOVR TO TBS INVERIOR. ti:- » (l 11- ii n A;: i I the amall thickets of servill, chokecherry, thorn and rose bushes ; and now fording little brooks of pure, limpid water, which came leaping down from the blue mountains, until we had traveled the distance of eight miles in a circuitous route. We then found ourselves very unexpectedly back to the point whence we started, all prepared for a consultation concerning the Indian war. As there was a large party of the Kayuses and Walla- Walla Indians encamped on the head waters of the Utilla, about fifty miles from Dr. Whitman's, embracing some of the principal chiefs, Mr. Perkins was desired to go out, and invite them to come in so as to be at the meeting, subsequently to be held at the mission station. Not knowing the way, he procured an Indian guide, and started off with no other person to accompany him. Traveling through a beautiful country, well adapted to pastoral pursuits, towards evening he arrived at the Utilla, where he expected to find the Indians, but they had removed to another place about twenty miles farther off. Inasmuch as he had no provision, and no means of kindling a fire, and there being no signs of Indian habit- ations m the vicinity, he resolved to proceed to camp, though in doing so, he was obliged to cross the stream. He asked the guide where the crossing place was, and was told that it was just before him. He tried to get the Indian to go in first and see how deep the water was, but the Indian refused, saying he was afraid. Mr. Perkins then rode his horse in, but soon found the water so deep that the horse was obliged to swim. But now it w^ as easy to go ahead as to turn about, and urging his horse a little, he was borne through the rapid stream in safety, to the opposite shore. His guide, frightened at the idea of passing the stream in the same manner, could not be induced to follow, and making an excuse that he did not know tl" ^^r^y, deserted him, and went back. Luckily, however, Mr. Perkins discovered an Indian not far distant, driving some horses, and of him he learned where he should find the trail that led to the Indian camp. He pushed on at full speed, and TOtTR TO THE INTERIOR. 160 arrived there just after dark, having rode since ten o'clock in the morning, the distance of seventy miles. Here he found three chiefs by the name of Tauitau, Yellow Ser- pent, and Five Crows. The last has recently professed conversion to the protestant religion, and the first h^ become a Catholic. Yellow Serpent is iiavorable to the Protestant missions, but does not gi'^^e as good evidence of conversion as Five Crows. iell*»w Serpent is the principal chief of the Walla- Walla tribe, the otlier two are brothers, and chiefs of the Kayuse. The son of Yellow Serpent was also with him. He has spent a number of years in the Methodist mission school, on the Wallamette river, where he received the name of Elijah Heading, and where he acquired some knowledge of the English language, and professed con- version ^o Christianity. Mr. Perkins put up for the night at Yellow Serpent's lodge. Supper was served of dried salmon, after which prayer was proposed by Elijah. They sang a hymn, and Mr. Perkins led in prayer, and was followed by Elijah, who, after he had concluded, requested his father to pray. This ended, they sung another hymn, and prepared to sle^p. Mr. Perkins having wet his blankets in swimming the river, had none to sleep in, but Yellow Serpent, taking his own blanket from his shoulders, gave it to him, saying that he had no blankets, but would make him as comfortable as he could. Wrapped in the Indian's blanket, he composed himself to sleep. The next morning, quite early, he called at Tauitau's lodge, and was informed, on entering, that they had not yet had their morning prayers. The chief caused a bell to be rung, at the sound of which all his band came together for devotion. Tauitau then said to Mr. Perkins, " We are Catholics, and our worship is different from yours." He then fell upon his knees, all the rest kneeling and facing him. The chief had a long string of beads on his neck, to which was attached a brass cross. After all were knelt, they devoutly crossed themselves, and commenced their prayers as follows: ** We are poor, we are poor," repeating it ten times, and then closing with, r 170 TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. i m W^ hi',:.: m i "Good Father, good Son, good Spirit," and then the chief would slip a bead on the string. This was contin- ued until all the beads were removed from one part of the string to the other. When their devotions closed, Tauitau said, " This is the way in which the priest taught us to worship .God," but Elijah said that ** Tauitau and his band prayed from the head, but we pray from the heart. Biddmg them good morning, Mr. rerkins moun- ted his horse, and at evening arrived in safety at the mission. Ffidav, 12th. As the Indians refused to come together unless Ellis and his men came down to meet them, we informed them that we should go up and see Ellis in his own country, but being suspicious that we intended to prevent his coming down, they were much opposed to our going. Explaining to the chiefs the object of our visit, they seemed to be satisfied, and we went about preparing for the continuance of our journey. At five, p. M., all were ready, and we started off on a round gallop in a northeasterly direction, and the sun went down beneath the waters of the Pacific. The light of the moon enabled us to keep along the winding trail as it led us over a beautifully undulating country, till eleven o'clock at night, when we camped on a small rivulet called the Toosha, forty-five miles from where we started. Next morning at sunrise proceeded. At noon encamped on another little stream, having traveled thirty-five miles. Rested for an hour, and continued our course through an exceedingly romantic country. At five, p. M., arrived at the Snake or Lewis river, where a portion of the Nez. Perse tribe reside, headed by one whom they call "Red Wolf." The village is situated on a small inclined plain, quite fertile, but the country round about is very rocky and mountainous. The valleys, however, afibrd abundant grass to supply the numerous horses owned by the Indians. Red Wolf, in more than one instance, has proved himself a friend to the Americans. When Capt. bonneville was in this country, many years ago, in his trade with the Indians, he met with violent opposition * B'i w TOUR TO THiS INTERIOR. in from the Hudson's Bay Company, and was compelled to leave that portion under the control of the company. But, in his attempt to do, he lost his way, and wai:aered about until he and his men were reduced to a starving state. Fortunately, he struck a trail that led him to the lodffe of Red Wolf, and he immediately told the chief of his great distress. Red Wolf was *moved by the story, and ordered a horse to be butchered without delay. Bonneville and his men feasted themselves to their entire satisfaction; and when they were read^ to leave, they were supplied with a guide, and provision for their journey. From Dr. Whitman's to Red Wolf's place it is one hundred miles; and having traveled it in one day, our horses were leg weary. Consequently, we turned them loose among the hills to remain till we returned, and obtained fresh ones of Red Wolf, for the prosecution of our journey. It was twenty-five miles from Red Wolf's to the mission station among the Nez Perces, under the care of Rev. Mr. Spaulding and the sun was two hours high; the trail was difficult in some places, but the horses were as light-footed as antelopes. Red Wolf had volunteered to accompany us, and crossing the river, swimming our horses in the rear of our canoe, we each one mounted the animal designated by the chief, and himself taking the lead, we measured off the sround with wonderful rapidity. We passed a number of small villages, and found the vallies which were fertile, aston- ishingly filled with horses. From one eminence could be seen not less than one thousand. But Red Wolf led us on with such astonishing swiftness that we had scarcely time to cast a glance at the Indians, horses, rivers, mountains, &c., by which the scenery of our route was diversified, and which we left one after another in quick succession far in the rear. Just as the sun was setting we brought up on Clear Water River, on the side opposite the house of Rev. Mr. Spaulding. We had traveled twenty-five miles in two hours, an i sixty miles since we dined at twelve o'clock. Hailing across the river, Mr. Spaulding came over in a small canoe, and I V t i n« TOtm to THfe iNTfiRtOll. 5.' '. •J 1';,, : it. ■•; took us and our baggage over, and, with his wife, and Mr. and Mrs. Littlejohn, cave us a most cordial and hearty welcome to their isolated home. Sunday, 14th. Some two hundred Indians, of all a^s, met in the rear of Mr. Spaulding's house for religious worship. They behaved with great propriety, and some of them gave good evidence of genuiue conversion. Mr. Spaulding had received three of them into church fellow- ship, two of them chiefs, by the name of Joseph and Timothy; and thirty others stood propounded for mem- bership. According to arrangement, these were to be received on the Sabbath after our arrival. Being exam- ined according to the order of the Presbyterian church, and giving satisfaction as to their religious experience, they and their children received baptism, and they be- came members of Christ's visible church. In the evening it fell to mv lot to preach to the few Americans who providentially had been thus thrown toother. This is evidently the most promising Indian mission in Oregon. Monday, 15th. Climbed to the top of a mountain, twenty-two hundred feet high, which overlooks the valley of Sapwai, and enables one to trace the windings of Clear Water, for several miles. We started a number of large rocks down the precipitous sides of the moun- tain towards the river, but on descending found that our sport was not gratuitous. Some Indians had just come up the trail on horseback, and a fragment of one of the rocks had struck a horse's leg and broken it. But the horse being not very valuable, the matter was easily adjusted. When we arrived, Ellis, with some hundreds of his people, was fifty or sixty miles off, and a letter was sent to him to come down and meet us. Tuesday, 16th. Joseph, who is second to Ellis in the chieftainship, made a martial display of his band, in a little plain in the rear of the house, where he entertained us with a sham fight. We estimated the number undei Joseph at seven nundred. Arrayed in their war dross, they made a very savage, not to say imposing, appear- ance. TOUR 10 THS INTBRIOll. 178 Wednesday, 17th. Joseph called out his band and awaited the arrival of Ellis. We were requested to take our places in the front ranks of Joseph's band, in the centre, and soon appeared, coming over the moun- tain, behind which had been waiting, a cloud of Indians, that spread itself over its sides. The mountain seemed aUve, as hundreds of Indians came moving towards the valley. They were all mounted on theii' best horses, and these were ornamented with scarlet belts and head dresses, while tassels dangled from their ears. They ar- rived on the borders of the plain, and the two bands were separated from each other about fifty rods, and now the scene that presented itself begsars description. A thou- saad savages rushed into all the mancevers of a deadly fight, while the roar of musketry, the shrill sound cf the war whistle, the horrible yelling, and the dashing too and fro upon their fiery steeds, which continued for half an hour, and approached us nearer and nearer until the froth from their horse's nostrils would fly into our faces as they passed — these, with the savage pomposity with which they were caparisoned, and the frightful manner in which they were daubed with paint, their fiery visa- ges being striped with red, black, white, and yellow, were all calculated not only to inspire terror, but a dread of savage fury in the mind of every beholder. At the very heieht of the excitement, when it appeared that the next whirl of the savage cavalry would trample us all beneath their feet, Ellis stretched himself up to his utmost height upon the back of his splendid charger, and waving his hand over the dark mass, instantly all was quiet, and the terrifying yell of the savage was succeeded by profound silence. All dismounted, and the chiefs and principal men, shook hands with us, in token of friend- ship. All again mounted, ourselves joining the troop on horses provided by the Indians for our use, and thev marched us back over the hill to a little plain beyond, for the purpose of entertaining us with a still farther exhibition of their customs. Conaeeted with EUis's band were some braves whom ths vii»l« BsJ^sm 4»ii0ht t» hoaor. The Blaekfeet i 'I I 174 TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. (A 4 kf»'" Indians have always been the deadly enemies of the Nez Perces, and of all the braves, none are honored so much as those who have killed Blackfeet. One of them then present, has killed twelve with his own hands, taken their scalps and muskets, and brought them as trophies to his lodge. This he had done to revenge the death of an only orother, who, according to his story, was treacherously murdered by the Blackfeet. A large circle was formed around this brave, he occupying the centre of the circle, bearing on one arm the muskets he had captured from the enemy, and hanging on the other the scalps he had taken. He displayed these trophies before the multitude, and at the same time, gave a history of the manner in which each one was taken. Ellis said he was the greatest brave in the nation, and they always honor bim m this way. A terrible battle had been re- cently fought by a party of the Nez Forces with a party of Blackfeet, in which the former were victorious. This battle was acted to the life, with the exceptiott that no blood was shed. The scene then closed with a war dance, conducted by a chief whom the whites designate by the name of " Lawyer," and in whom is comoined the cunning and shrewdness of the Indian, with the ability and penetration of the statesman. Though this savage "training" wa^more exciting than any martial display I had ever witnessed, yet it closed up quietly and peacefully, and as it had been conducted upon strictly temperance principles, all retired from the scene perfectly sober. At dark, of the thousand Indians present during the day, scarcely one was to be seen outside of his lodge. Ascertaining from Ellis that he designed to go down to meet the Kayuses when we returned, with some of his men, for the purpose of inducing them to accept of the laws which the Nez Perces had received, and with which they were well pleased, we waived our objections against his going, and on Thursday, the 18th, prepared to take our departure. Here I would take occasion to observe, that the Rev. Mr. Spaulding and his worthy companion are laboring TOUR TO THE INTERfoH. 175 faithfully for both the spiritual and temporal good of this people, and in no place have I seen more visible fruits of labor thus bestowed. There are few missionaries in any part of the world nrKire worthy of the confidence of the church that employs them, than these self-sacri- ficing servants of Jesus Christ. Far away from all civilized society, and depending for their safety from the fury of excited savages, alone in the protection of Heaven, they are entitled to the sympathies and prayers of the whole christian church. Bidding them farewell, we re-crossed the Clear-Water, where our horses were in waiting, rode back to Red Wolf's place, and slept. Next morning sent an Indian out among the hills to hunt for our horses, and as we were finishing our break- fast, which our boys had prepared for us, Red Wolf came out of his lodge and rung a large hand-bell, to call the Indians from the other lodges to their morning prayers. All assembled to the number of one hundred, JIM exhortation or harangue was given them by one of the chiefs, and then singing a hymn in the Indian tongue, two engaged in prayer. I was greatly surprised, in traveling through the Indian country, to find that these outward forms of Christianity are observed in almost every lodge. The Indians generally are nominally chris- tian, and about equally divided betwixt the Protestant and Catholic religion. At eight o'clock, a hallooing upon the side of the mountain indicated that our horses were found, and would soon be at our camp. Packing, saddling, and bridling were done in short order, and, Mr. Spaulding joining our party, we soon left the valley of the Snake River Dehind us. Examining the country more critically our return than when we went out, we found it to on l)e indescribably beautiful and picturesque, sometimes rising into the romantic and sublime, and generally well adapted to all pastoral purposes. No timber of any consequence appeared, except on the banks of the streams. Crossing the Tookaran, and Toosha, we stop- ped for supper on a beautiful brook, called Imaispa. We found we had barely provisions enough for tms meal, 'MR I 1^6 TOUR TO THfi INTERIOR. I ui^ a and two of us resolved to proceed, rather than go hun- gry all tjie next day. Letting our horses crop the grass for an hour, we traveled on ; Mr. Perkins and Mr. Spaulding preferring to remain where they were till morning. At daybreak we arrived at Dr. Whitman's, having set upon our horses all night. During our absence the Kayuses had all collected within a few miles of Dr. Whitman's, and were prepar- ing for the great meeting with the Nez Perces, on our return. On Saturday, 20th, Ellis, with three hundred of his people, arrived, and camped within a short distance of the mission. Wearied out by excessive labor, we put off the meeting of the two tribes until the ensuing week. Sunday morning about one hundred Indians assembled at the mission for religious worship, and were addressed by all the missionaries present. In the afternoon I walked out on the plain a short distance, and soon found myself on a little rise of ground, where were two graves, one of which was inclosed in a picket. Inquir- ing who was buried there, my attendant replied, " The grave inside the picket is that of the only child, a little daughter, of Mr. and Mrs. Whitman, who was drowned in that creek which, passes near the house. That on the outside incloses the remains of Joseph, the Hawaiian, who lived with Dr. Whitman a number of years, and served him faithfully while he lived." This Hawaiian was a converted man, and possessing considerable talent, he was very useful to the mission. Though he was a great lover of the Indians, and would do all he could for their welfare, yet, when he died, not one of them could be prevailed upon to assist in carrying him to the grave; but Dr. Whitman, and Mr. Pombrun, of Fort Walla- Walla, bore him upon their shoulders to the house appointed for all the living. I returned from this excursion reflecting upon the severe trials of missionaries, many of whom are com- pelled to bury their oflipring with their own hands. Prisaehfld in thf afteriuioii t& sevet) Araj^ricans, two TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. 177 "'V' of whom came in from their camp, three miles distant, where they were preparing to cross the mountains to the United States. One of these, Wm. C. Sutton, is truly " a brand plucked from the burning." For three years he has been a living witness of the power of the gospel to save even the chief of sinners. He lived for many years in the Rocky mountains, and contracted all the vices common to the mountaineers ; but abandoning the trapper's life, and coming down among the mission- aries in the lower country, he was powerfully awakened to see the folly of his former course, and after struggling for days on the brink of despair, was brought "from darkness to light, and from the power of Satan to the living God." Monday, 22d. We were visited by a number of Indians in the morning, among whom was one by the name of Jacob, whose history is a clear exhibition of the cunning and wonderful credulity of the Indians. By some means he obtained a large picture from the whites, which he was told represented the devil, and Indian shrewdness at once suggested to him that he could use tiie picture greatly to his advantage among his people, who had always believed that an evil spirit existed, and had much to do in inflicting misery upon the Indians. Taking good care to keep his picture concealed, and preparing the way for the people to receive him in his supernatural character, by spending much of his time alone, apparently in solemn thought, and in performing his conjurations, he at length gave out that he had Dia- holus under his control, and could bring him up at any time, in the sight of the people. To prove his assertion, he left the camp, charging the people to watch him, and as he went behind a little breastwork, several rods olT, which he had prepared for the occasion, to keep their eyes fixed upon the top of the breastwork. Performing his incantations awhile, at length Diaholus appeared to the terrified Indians, rising slowly above the breastwork. Jacob had accomplished his object, proved himself mas- ter of the Devil, ard by this manoeuver secured to him- self unbounded infuence among his people. ^ . - -d -■ .8 • * <* 178 TOUR TO THfi INTERIOH* % •■A i 'I i During the day, Nez Perce Indians continued to arrive, until six hundred people, and a thousand horses, appeared on the plains. The Kayuse and Walla- Walla bands united, forming a troop of three hundred men, all mounted. These met the Ner. Perces on the plain in front of Dr. Whitman's house, and then a scene similar to that at Lapwai, presented itself. The Indians worked themselves up into a high state of excitement, and Ellis said afterwards that he thought the Kayuses were de- termined to fight in good earnest. Tauitau, the Catholic chief, as he approached us, appeared quite angry, and disposed to quarrel. Seeing the excitement increase, and fearing that it mighty end seriously, unless the atten- tion of the Indians could be drawn to some other subject, Mr. Spaulding gave notice that all would repair to Dr. W.'s house, for the purpose of tallapoosa^ (worship). But Tauitau came forward in a very boisterous manner, and inquired what we had made all this disturbance for. We repaired to the house, followed by several hundred Indians, and after engaging in a season of prayer, found that the excitement had died away, and the Indians were scattering to their lodges for the night. Tuesday, 23d. The chiefs and principal men of both tribes came together at Dr. Whitman's to hear what we had to say. They were called to order by Tauitau, who by this time had got over his excitement, and then was placed before them the object of our visit. Among other things they were told that much had been said about war, and we had come to assure them that they had nothing to fear from that quarter ; that the Presi- dent of the United States had not sent the Doctor to their country, to make war upon them, but to enter into arrangements with them to regulate their intercourse with the white people. We were not there to catch them in a trap as a man would catch a beaver, but to do them good ; and if they would lay aside their former practices and prejudices, stop their quarrels, cultivate their lands, and receive good laws, they might become a great and a happy people ; that in order to do this, they must all be united, for they were but few in comparison TOUB TO TUB INTSiUOil. 179 fo the whites ; and if they were not all of one heart, they would be able to accomplish nothing ; that the chiefs should set the example and love each other, and not get proud and haughty, but consider the people as their brothers and their children, and labor to do them good ; that the people should be obedient, and in their morning and evening prayers^ they should remember their chiefs. m Liberty was then given for the chiefs to speak, and Ellis remarked that it would not be proper for the Nez Perce chiefs to speak until the Kayuse people should receive the laws. The Kayuse chiefs replied, " If you want us to receive the laws, bring them forward and let us see whem, as we cannot take them unlese we know what they are." A speech was then delivered to the young men to impress them favorably with regard to the laws. They were told that they would «oon take the places of the old men, and they should be wiUing to act for the good of the people ; that they should not go here and there and spreael false oports about war ; and that this had been the cause ol rll the difficulty and excitement which had prevailed among them during the past winter. The laws were then read, first in Enghsh, and then in the Nez Perce. Yellow Serpent then rose and said : ** I have a mes- sage to you. V/here are these laws from] Are they from God or fr.)m the earth 1 I would that you might say, they were from Grod. But I think they are from the earth, because, from what I know of white men, they do not honor these laws. In answer to this, the people were informed that the laws were recognized by God, and imposed on men in all civilized countries. Yellow Serpent was pleased v'ith the explanation, and said that it was according to the instructions he had re*, ved from others, and he was very glad to learn that it was so, because many of his people had been angry with him when he had whipped them for crime, and had told him that God would send him to heii for it, and he was glad to know that it was pleasing to God." 1 '^ ■!^ 180 ffOUR TO THE INTERIOR. :"?- i^' ■ Telaukaikt, a Kayuse chief, rose and said : ** What do you read the laws for before we take them ] We do not take the laws because Tauitau says so. He is a Catholic, and as a people we do not follow his worship. "^ Dr. White replied that this did not make any diflference about law ; that the people in the States had different jpodes of worship, yet all had one law. Then a chief, called the Prince, arose and said : " I understand you gave as liberty to examine every law — all the words and lines — and as questions are asked about it, we should get a better understanding of it. The people of this country have but one mind about it. I have something to say, but perhaps the people will dispute me. As a body, we have not had an opportunity to consult, therefore you come to us as in a wind, and speak to us as to the air, as we have no point, and we cannot speak because we have no point before us. The business before us is whole, like a body we have not dissected it. And perhaps you will say that it is out ot" place for me to speak, because I am not a great chiel". Once I had influence, but now I have but little." Here he was about to sit down, but was told to go on. He then said, — " When the whites first came among us, we had no cattle, they have given us none ; what we have now got we have obtamed by an exchange of property. A long time ago Lewis and Clark came to this country, and 1 want to know what they said about us. Did they say that they found friends or enemies here]" Being told that they spoke well of the Indians, the prince said, " that is a reason why the whites should unite with us, and all become one people. Those who have been here before you, have left us no memorial of their kindness, by giving us presents. We speak by way of favor. If you have any benefit to bestow, we will then speak more freely. One thing that we can speak about is cattle, and the reason why we cannot s})eak out now is because we have not the thing before us. My people are poor and blind, and we must have something tangible. Other chiefs have bewildered me since they came ; yet I am from an honorable stock. ago, TOUB TO THE INTERI01» 161 ^hat do We do le is a )r8hip." Terence ifferent lid: "I Jaw — asked r of it. out it. )le will )rtunity nd, and and wc ». The ave not J out of t chief. ) go on. ong us, hat we nge of ame to 1 about jnemies [ndians, should •se who >rial of eak by 3w, we ive can cannot before It have •ed me stock. Promises which have been made to me and my fathers, have not been fulfilled, and I am made miserable ; but it will not answer for me to speak out, for my people do not consider me as their chief. One thing more ; you have reminded me of what was promised me sometime ago, and I am inclined to follow on and see ; though I have been giving my beaver to the whites, and nave received many promises, and have always been disap pointed. I want to know what you are going to do." Illutin, or Big Belly, then arose and said, that the old men were wearied with the wickedness of the young men. That if he was alone, he could say yes at once to the laws, and that the reason why the young men did not feel as he felt was because they had stolen property in their hands, and the laws condemned stealinff. But he assured them that thi laws were calculated to do them good, and not evil. But this did not satisfy the prince. He desired that the good which it was proposed to do them by adopting the laws, might be put in a tangible form before tnem. He said that it had been a long time since the country had been discovered by whites, and that ever since that time, people had been coming along, and promising to do them good ; but th^ had all passed by and left no blessing behind them. That the Hudson's Bay Company had persuaded them to continue with them, and not go after the Americans ; that if the Americans designed to do them good why did they not bring go >ds with them to leave with the Indians 1 that they were fools to listen to what the Yankees had to say ; that they would only talk, but the company would both talk and give them presents. In reply to this the Doctor told them that he did not come to them as a missionary, nor as a trader. It was now nearly night, but just before the meeting closed a gun was fired in one of the lodges, and directly John, the Hawaiian, came running to the house with his hand up to his head, and the blood running down his face, and as he came into the assembly he cried out i iB» T9VR TO TUB INTERIOR. ¥* ■:, r > -'i ■f I . ^ 1 with great agitation, '* Indian, he kille me 1 Indian, he killemel'' John had been to the lodge for the purpose of trading wifh the young Indians, and the Indians became angry at John and threatened to shoot him. John told them that they darV not do it, and one of them instantly seized a musket and lodged the contents of it in the side of John's head. Fortunately there was no ball in the gun, consequently the results were not serious, though a hole was cut to the bone, an inch^ in diameter. In the evening Ellis and Lawyer came in to have a talk. They said they expected pay for being chiefs, and wished to know how much salary Dr. White wafe going to give them. Ellis said he had counted the months he had been in office, and thought that enough was due him to make him rich. They left at a late hour without receiving any satisfaction. .»%i Wednesday, 24th. Some hundreds again assembled to resume the business relative to laws ; but the first thing investigated was the shooting of John. The Indian, immediately after committing the deed, had fled, but the chiefs took summary measures to bring him back. He was brought before the assembly and found guilty of the crime, but the sentence was postponed until they received the laws. The Indians then continued to speak in reference to the laws, and their speeches were grave, energetic, mighty and eloquent, and generally in favor of receiving the laws. After all had spoken it was signified that thoy were ready for the vote whether they would take the laws or not, and the vote was unanimous in the affirmative. Having adopted the laws, it was now necessary to elect their chiefs, according to the provisions of the law ; and Tauitau was nominated to tF.j high chieftainship. Some were opposed ; a majority were in favor, and while the ?[uestion was pending Tauitau rose and said: "My riends, my friends, I rise to speak to you, and I want you all to listen." He then adverted to their past histo- ries, and told them how much thev had suffered in TOUR TO THE INTERIOB* 188 Sun, Die in consequence of their divisions and quarrels, and then inquired if they would lay aside all their past difficulties, and come up and support kim, if he would accept of the chieftainship. It was now time to close for that day, and the vote being put, Tauitau was declared duly elected to the high chieftainship of the Kayuse tribe. Before the meeting adjourned. Dr. White . presented the Indians with a fat ox which he bought of the mission, and Mrs. Whitman gave them a fat hog. These they butchered directly, and feastf.d upcn them till ten o'clock at night, when all was consumed. Thursday, 25th. A number of the chiefs came early in morning at our request, to settle a difficulty concerning some horses which they gave to Rev. Jason Lee, when he first came to Oregon, Mr. Lee having requested us to ccHfne to an arrangement with them, if possible. After a long talk, we succeeded in settling with them by propo- sing to give them a cow for each horse that they had given Mr. Lee. We found that the Indians always ex- pect to be well paid for a present. After this the Indians again assembled, and Tauitau came forward and certified that he had made up his mind that he could not accept of the chieftainship in consequence of the difference of his religion from that of the most of his people. He was accordingly excused from serving, and Five Crows, his brother, was immedi- ately nominated. When the virtues and firmness of Five Crows were spoken of, the people exclaimed, " our hearts go towards nim with a rush." His election was nearly unanimous, and highly pleasing to the whites, of whom he is a great friend, particularly of the Americans. He was so affected when his appointment was announced, that he wept It required but a short time to elect the subordinate chiefs, after which Mr. Perkins and myself addressed the meeting on the subject of the discovery of the country by Americans, their settling in it, and the necessity of living together on friendly terma; and then the meeting, which had been continued for four days, and at some stages of which the utmost excitement had pre- Ml I'iv' ^ ^ 184 T0UR TO THE INTERIOR. vailed, came to a peaceful conclusion, and all went about preparing for the closing feast. A second ox was butchered, cut into small pieces and boiled. It was then spread out upon the grass, and cut into mouthfuls, put on to plates, pans, pail covers, and pieces of boards, and placed along in the centre of a large temporary lodge, made of skins, and about seventy- five feet long. The people were then all called together, and took their seats on the ground, ourselves being con- ducted by the chiefs to some seats of skins prepared on the windward side of the lodge, so that we would be secure from the sit^oke, all, when seated, forming a lengthened ring around the food, three and four persons deep. Five Crows called the table to order, when a blessing was asked; then several Indiana passed around the meat to all present, the number, as near as we could judge, being six hundred, embracing, men, women and « hildren. Fingers were used instead of forks, and the •lattering of teeth and smacking of lips served as music while the process of mastication was going on. All seemed intent upon the business before them; laws, speeches, and war, were lost sight of, and the eating of the ox absorbed every other consideration. It was only necessary for each person to eat one pound, and all would be consumed. In twenty minutes the ox which, three hours before, was peacefully feeding on the prairie, was lodged in the stomachs of six hundred Indians. After the feast Ellis arose and said that it was fashionable among the Indians for all the chiefs to unite with the whites at such a time as this, in smoking the pipe, in token of their alliance and friendship. Accordingly, the pipe of peace was brought forward. Its stem was one inch in diameter, and three feet long, and the bowl four inches long and two in diameter, and made out of a spe- cies of dark free-stone. Ellis passed it around, to the chiefs first, and then to the whites, after which speeches were delivered by Five Crows, Ellis, Lawyer, Brothers, Tauitau, and Yellow Serpent; a season of prayer fol- lowed and the scene was closed. Next morning the Indians all came to give us the friendly hand before we * TOUR TO THE INTBRIOS. 186 J' about we parted; and the chiefs informed us that they had sen- tenced the Indian who shot John to a punishment of forty lashes on his bare back. Thus closed our negotiations, and the immense crowd of Indians, taking their leave, returned to their homes in the utmost order. In the evening all was still, and, walkinff out to the camping ground where the fires were still blazing, I found but one solitary old Indian, wno was boiling up the feet of the ox for his next day's supplies. Saturday, 27th. The forenoon was employed in pre- paring to return home; and at one, p. m., took our depar- ture from Waialetpu. Mrs. Whitman accompanied us back to the lower country. Traveled fourteen miles, and encamped for the Sabbath on a branch of the Walla- Walla River, called the Tusha, near its mouth. The land along the Walla- Walla and its tributaries is gener- ally very fertile, except in those places where it is strongly impregnated with sal soda. The face of the country is truly beautiful. Monday, 29th. Moved camp, and proceeding a few miles, met the Rev. Mr. Bells from Tshimkain, a mission station among the Spokan Indians. He was on his way to Waialetpu and Lapwai, and thence home. He gave us an account of his mission, rather discouraging upon the whole, from the opposition arrayed against him from the Catholics. Leaving him to pursue his journey alone, we continued on to fort Walla- Walla, and dined with Mr. McKinley, who has charge of it. Here Mrs. Whit- man decided to stop for the arrival of the Hudson's Bay Company's brigade of boats from the upper forts, which was expected in a day or two, preferring that mode of conveyance to riding on horse-back. After dinner we crossed the Walla- Walla river, and desiring to make some observations in the vicinity, encamped for the night. Towards evening I walked out alone to take a view of the burying ground of the Walla- Walla tribe. It was whitened with the bones of horses that had been slain over the graves of their owners, while here and there could be seen a human skull lying by the side of a horse's head. One of the most singular cases o^ volun 8* i te f'V. i 166 TOUR TO TUB INTERIOR. J » nh tary interment recorded in the annals of heathen super- stition, took place in this buryinj^ ground some twenty- five years ago. There resided in this vicinity a man belonging to the Walla- Walla tribe, who, rising by his own merits, became the most successful warrior, and re- nowned chieftain of which the Walla- Wallas could ever boast. During his life, his people were the terror of all the surrounding tribes; and wherever he led them out against the enemy, he was sure to bring them back in triumph, bearing the nur.^erous trophies of his victories in the form of scalps, muskets, shields, &lc. These he hung as so many ornaments, to the sides of his lodge. Years of uninterrupted prosperity passed, and the old man saw his five sons grow up by his side. As they arrived to manhood, they strikingly resembled himself, not only in their tall, athletic and commanding forms, but also in their astonishing bravery and indomitable will. His word was the law oi his tribe, and he had learned even his own people to tremble at his nod. His voice of command was never disobeyed, whether raised amidst the tumult of battle, the quiet of his village, or at the fire side of his own wigwam. He was justly prciud of his sons, and saw, in the changeless afiTection they bore to their father, their love to one another, arid their unri- valed talents, not only his own comfort and support in old age, when he would become useless, but also the continued prosperity of his beloved tribe. But a cloud was rising to darken the prospects of the aged chief. His eldest son, the glory of the tribe, the heir to the chieftainship, was slain in battle, and the old man's grief was inconsolable. But he had other sons, and around them clustered his hopes. His eldest living one was now the heir, and every way qualified to suc- ceed him, but he had not ceased wailing for the eldest before the second was cut down; and then the third, and the fourth, some in battle, and some bv disease. Now his youngest, Benjamin, alone was left; and the cup of the old man's grief was nearly full. Bitterly did he complain of that cruel fate that had bereft him of his sons, and he found consolation only in the refle-Zi'v^ that TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. 187 they had been great warriors, and every way worthy of their father. But now they were dead, and all his affec- tions centered in his youngest boy. Surely, thought he, my only remaining son of five, as noble as ever father could boast, will hve to be my support in my declining years; he will be my staff when my palsied limbs can scarcely bear me in and out of my wigwam; he will close my eyes when I lie down to die; he will mourn over my grave when I am buried; he will heir my property when I am no more, and as chief of the Walla- Walla nation he will follow in the footsteps of his father. But disease was already preying upon the vitals of that beloved son, and the father felt his last prop crumble beneath him, as his son expired before his eyes. Like a person under the influence of some desperate resolution, he left the wigwam where lay the wreck of his hopes, and went to K»rt Walla- Walla, which was commanded by Englishmen, and told them of the death of his last son, and requested them to make arrangements to have him buried according to the English custom. Comply- ing with his request, the dead body was put into a comn, the funeral service read, and the dark procession moved to the grave, the people showing the sincerity of their sorrow by bitter wailing and tears; but the old man's grief was too deep thus to find relief. The cofliin was lowered into the deep dug grave, and the bearers were about to fill it with earth, when the old man stepped upon the grave*s mouth and examined the dark abode of his son, then commanded them to desist until he had deliv- ered a message to the people. With a countenance indicating a settled purpose of soul, he looked around upon his beloved people, whose wailings had already given place to a death-like silence, and commanded them to listen to the trembling voice of their old chief, while he delivered to them his last speech. He then rehearsed before them the history of his life, painting, in glowing colors, the successes which had invariably attended him in the numerous wars in which he had been involved, with the surrounding tribes; the splendid trophies taken from the enemy with which his lodge was adorned, and the lJ ^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A 1.0 1.1 ■u lU 12.2 ■u .3. mm ■u Kb u 1 2.0 1 '-2^ II '-^ i '•* < 6" ► '^ D ^' o a Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 Wi^" ^^A- 188 TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. /' M ^^ y-;i \ elevated position to which he had raised the Walla- Wallas, by the prowess of his arm ; and then with a heart throbbing with emotion he traced the history of his doting sons. He had sustained them in mfancy; he had taught them to love and to obey him; he had trained them to be warriors; he had seen them rush bravely into the deadly fight, and bear off the palm of victory; and he had fondly hoped that they would have long survived him. But a cruel fate had robbed him of his boys; his last hope had perished, the sun of his pros- perity had set, and left him surrounded with the darkness of despair; and he was now like a tree whose branches had been broken off, and whose trunk had been shattered to pieces by the successive strokes of the thunder-bolt. And then assuring them that no entreaty should prevent him from accomplishing his design, he announced to them the startling fact, that he had resolved not to survive the burial of his youngest son; and rushing into the grave he stretched Himself upon the coffin of his son, and com- manded the people to bury him with his beloved boy. A general burst of lamentation from the multitude sur- rounding the grave rose upon the breeze as the last com- mand of the mighty chief was as promptly obeyed as any he had ever issued in the day of battle. Thus perished the glory of the Walla- Walla nation. Fort Walla- Walla is situated on the left bank of the Colum.bia, just above the mouth of the Walla- Walla River. It may more properly be called a trading post, as it looks but little like a fort except that two or three small buildings are enclosed in an adobe y wall, about twelve feet high. The company and some private indi- viduals met with considerable loss, not long ago, from the burning of this fort, which was supposed to have been fired by the Indians. The land around is very barren, though the face of the country is good. The company cultivate a farm about three miles from the fort, on the banks of the Walla- Walla. Tuesday, 30th. Rode sixty-five miles, but on the 31st, both man and beast were so fatigued that we were una- ble to travel more than twenty-five miles. During this TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. 189 day I proceeded on in advance of the party about one mile, and stopping my horse, dismounted, and took my blanket from my saddle, threw it upon the ground, lay down upon it, and instantly dropt into a sound sleep. There I should doubtless have remained for hours, if one of the party, who had fallen in the rear, had not awak- ened me, the others having passed within a few feet without my knowing it. Thursday, June 1st. Arrived at the mission station below the Dalls, where we met with news from the lower country, ships having arrived in the Columbia River, bringing letters, goods and passengers for Oregon. As Dr. White expected to be detained some time at the Dalls, I resolved to proceed homeward the first oppor- tanity. Fortunately the brigade of boats for which Mrs. Whitman awaited at Walla- Walla, arrived at the Dalls a few hours after we did ; and applying to Mr. Ogden, who had command of the brigade, I obtained a passage in his boat down the Colunibia River to Fort Vancouver. The boats were nine in number, each ca- pable of carrying five or six tons ; all loaded with fura which had been collected in the vast interior, and now on their way to the general depot at Vancouver, where they were to be examined, dried, packed and shipped for London. Associated with Mr. Ogden were Mr. McDonald, and Mr. Ermatinger, the two former being chief factors in the company, and the latter a chief tra- der, both honorable and lucrative offices. Sixty men were required to man the boats, and these were all French Canadians, and half-caste Iroquois. We all remained at the Dalls over night, and on Fri- day, the 2d of June, moved down the river a few miles, and were met with a head wind, which soon blew to a gale, compelling us to put to shore, which we succeeded in gaining with some difficulty, breaking one of our boats against the rocks, in the attempt. Here we were detained for some hours, during which Mr. Ogden rela- ted some of his wonderful adventures among the Indians with whom he had resided for more than thirty years. He was an eve witness to a remarkable circumstance i; is- •f ..^ 190 TOUR TO THK INTERIOR. that transpired at the Dalls, during one of his voyages up the Columbia. He arrived at the Dalls on the Sab- bath day, and seeing a congregation of some three hun- dred Indians assembled not far from the river, he drew near to ascertain the cause, and found the Rev. H. K. W. Perkins diopensing to them the word of reconcilia- tion, through a crucified Redeemer. There was sitting in the outskirts of the congregation an Indian woman who had been, for many years, a doctress in the tribe, and who had just expended all her skill upon a patient, the only son of a man whose wigwam was not far dis- tant, and for the recovery of whose son she had become responsible, by consenting to become his physician. All her efforts to remove the disease were unavailing, the father was doomed to see his son expire. Believing that the doctress had the power of preserving life or inflicting death according to her will, and that instead of curing she had killed his boy, he resolved upon the most sum- mary revenge. Leaving his dead son in the lodge, he broke into the congregation with a large butcher-knife in his hand, and rushing upon the now terrified doctress, seized her by the hair, and with one blow across her throat, laid her dead at his feet. The wind continued to blow until nearly midnight, when a loud call from the pilot warned us that we must leave camp. Though it was very dark, the voyageurs were well acquainted with the river, and continued to ply the oars until three o'clock in the morning, when they brouffht up a few miles above the cascades, to wait for dayhght. In the morning proceeded to the cascades, where we were detained for several hours, while the voyageurs carried their boats and furs across a portage of half a mile. The portage was made, and the boats again loaded, but still there were fearful rapids below, which they de- signed to run. Mr. Ogden preferring to walk across a point of land down to the foot of the first rapid, I vol- unteered to accompany him, and coming to an eddy below ti>e point, we awaited the arrival of the boats. Soon the first came, booming around the point, and TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. 191 thrown violently up and down by the rolling current , then the second, and the third, and so on, till the whole nine appeared in sight. Only two of them gained the eddy, in one of which was Mrs. Whitman; all the others were borne down the tumbling torrent with fearful furv, and it appeared to us on shore, that they must inevitably be lost. One only was capsized, and its craw of eight men struggled hard in the mighty current, until they were all picked up by the other boats, some of them being quite exhausted, and one so far gone that it was with considerable difficulty that he was restored. The boat also, with all its cargo, was saved. After this we were highly favored with respect to wind and current, and on Sunday, at two o'clock, p. m., we arrived in safety at Fort Vancouver. Monday, the 5th. Procured a passage in one of the company's barges to the Wallamette Falls ; and the fol- lowing day a ride on horseback of fifty miles brought me back to my own dwelling, having, since I left home, performed a journey of one thousand miles. I ■;■*«," "^- .' : > ;»■- ,.f CHAPTER X. Homeward bound — Departure from Oregon — Lost in a fog — Vancouver — Unex- pected meeting — Night running — Labor lost — Dreary encampment — Sabbatk • —Pillar Rock — Fort George — Clatsop Plains — A whale — Entertainment •— Embarkation — Detention — Great cave — Weigh anchor — Remarkable escape from shipwreck — Driven back-- Second trial successful — Voyage — Manl — Night danger — Arrival at Oahu — Shipping — English fleet — News from home — Rev. Jason Lee — "Hoa Tita" — Affecting separation — Admiral Thomas — Great alarm — Detention — How improved. f ': ■ \ !: : ■'r Late in the fall of 1843, information was received on the Wallamatte that the English barque Columbia was about to sail from Vancouver to the Sandwich Islands, and would take a certain number of passengers. Ac- cordingly, Rev. Jason Lee, John Ricord, Esq., of New York, and myself and family, engaged passage ; Mr. Ricord at three dollars per day, and the rest of us at two and a half each, the half dollar being deducted in consequence of our being missionaries. Mr. Lee and myself designed, after arriving at the Sandwich Islands, to take the first opportunity to proceed to the United States, but Mr. Kicord designed to remain at the Islands. Having made the necessary arrangements, and put all our baggage into one of the company's batteaux to take to the vessel, we took a small boat in tow, in which we intended to proceed from Vancouver down the Columbia. At dark we took leave of our friends, who stood on the banks of the river to witness our departure. There being a good moon, we did not apprehend much difficulty in running in the night, as we were well acquainted with the river, and we were willing to venture a little to get our baggage on board, before the vessel dropped down the Columbia. Proceeding on till a late hour at night, •■•'i '^:ii; I10M£WARD BOUND. 198 we lost ourselves in a dense fog, and supposing that by some unaccountable twist we had got turned about, and were going the wrong way, we resolved as soon as posisble to make the shore. Finding a place where we could fasten our boats we remained quiet until morning. At nine o'clock the fog had disappeared, and thereby disclosing the shores to our view, enabled us to ascertain our position. Moving forward, we labored hard with our oars during the day, and at dark came along side of the vessel which lay in the Columbia a short distance above the mouth of the Wallamette. Leaving all our baggage, except such as we should need on our trip down the Columbia, we passed on, and at nine in the evening arrived at Vancouver ; but as the gates of the fort were closed, we were obliged to encamp on the beach for the night. Having accomplished our business, on the 6th we took our leave of our hospitable friends at Vancouver, but the tide being against us, we made slow headway. At seven o'clock, p. m., however, we came up with the ship, and being invited by Captain Humphries, we spent a comfortable night on board. Next morning proceeded on in our small boat, and as there was no wmd to favor the ship, we soon left her behind. At two o'clock, p. m., passed the mouth of the Multnomah, and landed a short time at the point where, in 1835, Capt. Wyeth attempted to establish a trading post, but failed, as every other such attempt has done, from coming in contact with, and meeting the opposition of, the Hudson's Bay Company. A little below this point we stopped to dine, on a fine gravelly beach, and while preparing our dinner, several canoes appeared below us, moving up the stream. Dis- covering our smoke, they made for the point, and on coming to the shore, we found, in one of the canoes, Mr. W. W. Raymond and his family, who were on their way from Clatsop, at the mouth of the river, up to the Wallamette. Mr. Raymond was employed as a farmer at a mission station established on the Clatsop plains. With them we spent a pleasant hour, during which we regaled ourselves upon an unusual variety for such a ^1, 194 HOMEWARD B0I7ND. '^^ 1 time, our dinner consisting of beef, pork, potatoes, bread, butter, pie, cake, and raspberry preserves ; but we feasted with the expectation of suffering hunger before we arrived at Clatsop, if the winds and weather did not favor our progress. Taking leave of our friends, we departed from our delightful encampment, and with the tide in our favor, proceeded on our voyage. Night came on, and a dense fog rendered it difficult to run ; nevertheless we concluded there could be little danger of our going wrong so long as we felt the force of the tide bearing us downward ; but we soon found that we were missing our way, and running in behind an island, at the lower end of which a sand-bar had formed across the channel, on which the water was so shallow that we could not pass with our boat. Backing around, we rowed hard for an hour, when we found ourselves again at the head of the island, and by this time the darkness was somewhat dispelled by the rising moon, and we ventured to i*un on until midnight. Mooring our boat in a little bay among the rocks, we clambered up on the side of a mountain, covered with a dense forest, where we spent the remainder of the night. Our place of encampment presented a striking contrast to the one we had just left, being among the rugged and precipitous cliffs which overhung the river on the left- hand shore, and as everything around had been tho- roughly soaked with rain we found it exceedingly diffi- cult to light a fire. But after burning my fingers to a blister, scorching my face, and singing off my eye-brows, by flashing powder, 1 at length accomplished my object, and our dreary encampment assumed a more cheering aspect. On Saturday, the 8th, proceeded down as far as Oak Point, which is about thirty miles above Astoria, and encamped for the Sabbath under a precipice of rocks on the opposite side from the point. This precipice, which rises several hundred feet, is composed of different layers or strata of irregular, massive amigdaloid and basalt, and, contrasted with the low flat shore on the opposite side, presents a very imposing appearance. HOMEWARD BOUND. 195 Here, amidst the Bolitude of rocks, forest, and water, we experienced the truth that devotion is not confined to the damask desks and cushioned seats of refined civil- ization, but cheers with her presence the lonely and wandering exile. Monday, 9th. Ran down to Pillar Rock, fourteen miles above Astoria, where, being met by the flood-tide, we were obliged to camp. This rock is a great natural curiosity. It is a mighty column of basalt standing alone in the midst of tne river, and though not more than fifteen or twenty feet in diameter at its base, it rises perpendicular on all sides to the height of more than one nundred feet. Remaining here over night, the next morning we crossed the river diagonally from Pillar Rock to Tongue Point,, the distance of eleven miles, without serious accident, though the wind was high, and the boat took in considerable water. At twelve arrived at Astoria, where we met with a very cordial reception from Mr. Birney and his family, whose hospitalities we shared until the following day. This gentleman is an officer in the Hudson's Say Company, and one of its pioneers. In common with all the English and Scotch magnates of the forest, he possesses the disposition to entertain strangers, both with the comforts his house affords, and by narrating his diflferent campaigns, trials, sufferings, contests with the Indians, and hair-breadth escapes. This place is now called Fort George by the English^ but doubtless will resume the name of Ast ' 'a when it is settled that the country belongs to the L -d States. In the afternoon of the 10th, Kev. J. L. Parrish, who is employed as a missionary among the Indians on the Clatsop Plains, came from Point Adams across the mouth of Young's Bay in a canoe, and met us at the fort, de- signing to proceed up the river to visit some Indian clans in the vicinity of the Katlamette Islands ; but falling in with us, he resolved to return, and the next morning took us all in his large canoe safely to Point Adams, though the bay was quite rough from the effects of a strong east wind. From Point Adams south to a high to have successiveh' formed the boundary of the Pacific ocean. Some of these ridges appear in the woods, and large trees have grown on the top of them, which proves that this tract has been forming for hundreds of years. The soil, if we may judge from the immense growth of grass and weeds on the plains, is of a superior quality. The location is delightful, the scenery of ocean and mountain on a grand scale, and evidently this will be one of the most valuable portions of Oregon. At present, I, there are six American citizens settled on the plains, and as many more have taken claims. On Thursday, the 21st, we received a note from Cap- tain Humphries, informing us that the ship had arrived at Fort George; and taking leave of our friends on the Clatsop Plains, we proceeded up the beach towards the mouth of the Columbia. On our way we fell in with a fin back whale that had been driven ashore by the fury of the south-west ^ales. Though this is a common occurrence, more or less being driven up every year, yet it is considered by the settlers and Indians on the plains, as a very lucky event. It is a rule among both classes, that when a whale is driven ashore, each one is entitled to all he can get. When we discovered the object, Mr. Lee, Mr. Ricord and myself, were in advance of the rest of the party, and in our rear were a number of Indians, who were going up to row us across Young's Bay to Fort George, and Mr. Solomon Smith, an American who resides on the plains, and who had kindly taken Mrs. H. and the children into his cart to carry them up to point Adams. When Smith first discovered the object, he exclaimed, " Who knows but that Providence has sent me up out of the ocean fifty dollars'? Yonder is something that looks like a whale." We were all speedily up with the object. Smith and the Indians manifesting as much joy at their good luck as a man would feel who had unexpectedly received an immense fortune; and they all seemed instantly to forget that they were going to assist us up to fort George. Smith having no other instrument than a jack knife, and fearing that the Indians who were just behind, would V t 196 HOMEWARD BUUNO. II I S' .r^ ' 1 ' I li get more than he, left his horse and cart standing in the centre of the wide beach, sprang nimbly on to the car- case of the huge monster, and with his Knife traced that fiortion of the animal to which he intended to lay claim. t was somewhat pleasing to observe that the Indians, in their selections, paid the utmost respect to the pre-emption right of Mr. Smith. Here was no jumping of claims, but as one after another arrived, all were satisfied to select from that part of the vast surface of the whale around which lines had not been run. We witnessed the dividing of the spoil a short time, and not being able to get either Smith or the Indians to proceed any farther till they had secured all the blubber, I took the cart in charge. At. sundown we encamped on Point Adams, contenting ourselves with the idea that when the south- easter, which by this time began to rage, had abated, and the whale had all been removed from the beach by its despoilers, we should be able to cross Young's Bay to fort George, where the barque Columbia lay at anchor. TJtie storm continued until the 23d, when Mr. Parrish came up with a number of Indians and took us across the bay. We were entertained over the Sabbath in the house of Mr. Birney, where I preached the gospel to some twenty-five persons, embracing the crew of the barque, the passengers, and the residents of Fort George. On the 25tn, we were required, by the Captain, to em- bark, but as the wind was contrary, we were obliged to remain until the 26th, when we weighed anchor and ran down to Baker's Bay. This bay is the common anchor- age for ships after coming into the river and before going out. On leaving Fort George we were in hopes immediate- ly to pass over the bar of the Columbia, but on arriving at Baker's Bay the wind became adverse, and, with the prospect of a violent and tedious storm from the south and west, we came to anchor snug under Cape Disap- pointment, that we might be sheltered from the fury of winds and waves. v :«» . , Though ftt present it is a most dreary axii barbarous kkokipg region around Baker's 3ay> yet^ aiiCape IJtep- HOMEWARD BOUND. 100 s in the lie ear- ned that y claim, iians, in emption claims, sfied to J whale tnessed ing alile farther cart in Adams, 3 south- ted, and h by its Bay to anchor. Parrish } across h in the 3spel to ' of the George. , to em- iiged to and ran anchor- •e going lediate- irriving i^ith the e south Disap- fury of rbarous I>isap- pointment must always be the guide of the mariner into the mouth of the river, and as the bay is the only safe anchorage, and vessels are always more or less detained in passing in and out, this must eventually become a place of considerable maritime importance. This is the only entrepot of the country, and consequently all supplies must pass either way through this channel. This liver is the thoroughfare on which must be conveyed everything that goes to and from the interior, and, judg- ing from the rapidity with which the country is filling up, the time is not far distant when steamboats will be Hying up and down this river, as they are now seen on the Hudson and Mississippi. Three places offer facili- ties for the establishment of the grand depot for the country, which must be located somewhere near the mouth of the river. These are the shore of Baker's Bay, back of Cape Disappointment, the east side of Point Adams, and old Astoria. One of these places may doubtless be contemplated as the location of some future splendid commercial city, say the New York of the west. While in Baker's Bay we experienced a very disa- greeable detention of forty days, during which the storm from the south and west, continued to rage, with unceas- ing violence. Day after day Captain Humphries and myself would climb to the top of Cape Disappointment, and look off on the broad expanse of the Pacific, and contemplate the majesty of the ocean as she rolled her mountam billows, and dashed them successively against the base of the mighty rock on which we stood. The huge swell, rolling m from the south-west, would break with fearful grandeur the entire width of the channel across the bar of the Columbia, and the thick haze dark- ening the horizon corroborated the indications of the barometer, that the storm had not yet abated. Occasionally, however, we were able to extend our walks along the shore north of the Cape, and view what- ever of interest presented itself. Here is a cave extend- ing into the rock one hundred and fifty feet, and Goaismns the bones of aninovLl^ trunks of Ur^s, and 200 HOMEWARD BOUND. f''', i m: 'Up other substances, which the tide has there deposited. The country around presents an tispect wild beyond description. ■•■•'- .uy»>,-^|,i#r. 0^^-^: On the morning of the 31st of January, the wind blew fair from the north-west, and having been detained already beyond all endurance, the Captain ^esolved to make an effort to get to sea, though from the top of the Cape the mountain swell could be seen breaking across the channel. Accordingly, we weighed anchor, and soon passed Cape Disappointment, and steeret^ for the channel across the dreaded bar. The Captain took his position on the foretop, and had not proceeded mce than one mile and a half before he was convinced that iie was premature in leaving the bay, as the bar was ''till too rough to attempt to cross. The anchor was immediately let go, and the Captain determined to remain where he was for an hour, in hopes that the ebb tide would run down the high sea on the bar, so as to admi* of our crossing in safety. Again the; anchor was raised, and the Captain resumed his position on the foretop, but as we approached what are called the north br'^akera, he came running down with great perturbation, ar 1 informed us th; * the huge sea was still breaking ent ely across the channel, and that there was no prospec , if we at- tempted to cross, of saving either the vessel r our lives. To cast anchor where we were would b*^ imminently dangerous, but there was no alternative, a? t was impos- sible for us to get back into the bay. A jordingly, wo hauled to, and dropt our anchor withii a few cable's length of the north sands. The wind was blowing a gale, and a tremendous swell came rolling over the sand bar, and threatened instantly to overwhelm us, while the vessel was tossed about with the greatest violence. As if to add terror to the gloomy prospect before us, night came on, and enveloped us in total darkness. Loud nowled the wind, and the mighty breakers, rolling in majestic grandeur over the sand bar at the north of the channel, angrily shook their white locks around us during the whole night. If the vessel had dragged her anchor, or parted her cable, she must inevitably have been de- HOMEWARD BOUND. 201 i stroyed, and all on board have perished, as no small-boat could have lived in that sea for a single moment. In addition to the miseries of seasickness, during that dismal night, the horrors of shipwreck were vividly por- trayed before us as we theught of the ship Isabelle, which was cast away upon a sand-bar ^)ut a short dis- tance from our stern, of the William and Ann which was wrecked on tiife same bar in 1838, with twenty-six per- sons on board, not one of whom was left to describe >the circumstances of the lamentable catastrophe; and of the United States' ship Peacock, which wa« lost on the north sand-bar, but a little distance from where we lay. But an ever watchful Providence interposed in our behalf ; the wind lulled about daylight,, and hauled around a few pointis; the sea became measurably pacified, and at sun- rise we stood back for Buker's Bay, where we again let go our anchor, to await a more propitious time for embarkation. i^f^v^ * - We had not to wait long, f6T on the 8d day of Febru- ary, the mouth of the river being exceedingly smooth, and the wind from' the noi th-east, Captain Humphries and myself went once more to the top of Cape Disap- pointment to take a view of the fearful baf, and pro- nouncing it passable, at dne o'clock, we weighed anchor, and spreading our sails to the breeze, passed beautifully and majestically over the spot where two days before our gallant barmie wottW have been driven to the bottom by one break of the'roTR^g surge. - - \j^Tdpfc A voyage of twenty-four days, dtirfng which we experien ed a succession of violent gales miusup.l on this part of the ocean, brought us in sight of the island of Mauie, which we first savr forty miles distant at two, p. m., of the 26th of February. At five we made the island of Oahu, and though during the day we had been sailing before a reefed topsail breeze, when we came up with the north end of the island, the wind suddenly fell, and we found ourselves plunging and rolling over an exceedingly heavy swell occasioned by a strong scuth wind, which for some time had prevailed in the vicinity of the islands. During the night we were drifted some M I nil M .a 202 HOMEWARD BOUND* J* t/r. .'fV '3' .»■■ I I I distance towards the island of Oahu and began to fear lest we might be driven ashore, and the absence of wind prove more destructive than th& gales we had expe- rienced. In the morning, however, the regular trade set in, and as it was a fair wind, we were carried quickly past Diamond Hill, when the city of Honolulu presented itself to our view. A white flag was raised to the top of the mast to announce that no epidemic prevailed among us, and soon after, we were boarded by an old pilot, who, taking the ship in charge, conducted us along the narrow zig-zag channel leading through the Coral Reef which, with this exception, surrounds tfie island of Oahu, and bringing the vessel up within a few rods of land, gave orders to " let go the anchor/' We found a variety of shipping in the harbor, Ameri- can, English, French, Spanish and some others. The Dublin line of battle ship lay in the roads the night previous to our arrival, but so violent warf the motion of the vessel in consequence of the tremendous swell that rolled in from the south, that she parted both her cables, and it was with the utmost difficulty that she was prevented from driving on the coral reef. A timely breeze enabled her to remove from her dangerous prox- imity to land, and after laying off and on until the swell subsided, she finally came again to anchor in her former {)osition. The Dublin was the flag ship of a small Eng- ish fleet under the command of Rear Admiral Thomas, the hero of the Chinese war, who had been sent from China by the British government to settle the difficulties occasioned by the outrageous conduct of Lord George Paulet-in capturing the Sandwich Islands, and to restore them back to his Hawaiian majesty. Soon after we came to anchor, Dr. J. L. Babcock, of the Oregon mission, who had been on the island for some months with his family, for the benefit of their health, came on board, and invited us ashore. They were stop- ping at the house of John Colcord, where, for the time being, we also took up our abode. Immediately after landing, we learned from Dr. Bab- cock that news had arrived from the islands that Rev. 11 HOMEWARD BOUND. 308 George Gary had been appointed to supersede Rev. Jason Lee in the superintendency of the Oregon Mis- sion, and was expected at the islands- on his way to Oregon, in a few weeks. This information caused us to hesitate whether to proceed, if we had an opportunity, or remain until Mr. Gary's arrival. Inquiring whether there would be any opportunity soon to take passage to the States, we ascertained that, in all probability, no vessel would leave the islands for that destination under several months ; but that a small schooner belonging to the Hawaiian Government, cdled the "Hoa Tita," would sail the next day for Mazatlan, on the coast of Mexico. Mr. Lee and myself proceeded directly to the consul to ascertain whether it would be possible to procure a passage to the coast, but found that one only could be accommodated on the small craft, and that it would not be practicable to take a family across the continent; Thus baffled in our purposes to proceed together to the United States, we held a council in which Dr. Babcoek participated, and came to the con- clusion that, under the circumstances it was our duty to separate; Mr. Lee to take the ''HoaTita" to Mazatlan, thence take the route through Mexico to Vera Cruz, and thence to New Yoi^, and myself and family to take the brig Chenamus, which would be ready to sail in a few weeks, and return to Oregon. With reference to Mr. Lee, no time was to be lost in preparing for his embarkation, but with the assistance of the acting consul, Wm. Hooper, Esq., and Mr. Ladd, everything was soon made ready. Now came one of the severe trials of missionary Ufe. Mr. Lee had buried his second wife in Oregon, and was left with a tender infant, a little girl of three weeks old. Mrs. Hines received the child from the bed of death to take care of it so long as Mr. Lee should desire, and after the burial of its mother he also came to reside in our family. Mr. Lee looked upon this his only child, as his earthly all, and no personal consideration would have induced him to leave her in the care of others, on an island in the Pacific ocean, and perform a hazardous journey to the I I [if i^sjig ■ . |j ' « i .ii I • ■ 'i' 904 HOMEWARD BOUND. il' r.*s.f^ ti f 'w other side of the ^lobe, with but Uttle prospect of ever again beholdine his beloved daughter. ^ But with a heart as affectionate as ever beat in the breast of a man, Mr. Lee never allowed his personal feelings to control his conduct, when they opposed themselves to the calls of duty. In his opinion it was the voice of duty that called him to tear himself away froip all he held dear upon the earth and return to his native land. Accordingly, at fhree o'clock, p. m., of the 28th of February, after tenderly committing his mother- less child to the care of the writer and his companion, he was conducted to the "Hoa Tita," whieh lay ^at the wharf, and which, with a fair wind, was soon wafted from the shores of Oahu towards the Mexican coast. On the 2d day of March, Rear Admiral Thomas, having accomplished his mission to the Hawaiians to the entire satisfaction of both natives and foreigners, took his leave of Oahu, and amidst the roar of cannon which saluted him frdm the fort and from the ships of war in the harbor, he steered his course for the Society Islands. The following day his majesty Kamahamaha III, arrived at Honolulu from Maui, where he has resided for some time. Though it was the Sabbath, yet he was saluted with many guns as his crown flag was seen flying at the entrance of the harbor* He is now to take up his resi- dence in the city of Honolulu. m : In the evening of the 7th of March, the bells of the churches and of the ships in the harbor, rung an alarm, and the whole city seemed at once in an uproar. The cry of fire was heard in every direction, and as no fire could be seen from where we were, I concluded- that it must be in some ship *in the harbor. I accordingly ran down to the wharf, and found that the brig Chenamus was indeed on fire in her hold, and no one could tell to what extent. A report was at once circulated, that she had on board a vast quantity of powder, some said three hundred barrels. This alarmed many exceedingly, and but few would go down to the wharf for fear the vessel would blow up immediately. The utmost confusion and w 11' HOMeWARD BOUl^Di 206 disorder prevailed until Captain Couch, who was absent from the ship when the fire was first discovered) arrived. He immediately corrected the mistake in reference to the amount of powder, and also informed the people concerning the probable position of the fire, which he supposed to be m the lower hold forward of the main- mast, and as the powder was in the after run, the danger was not so imminent as had been supposed. The fire, however, had so far progressed that it was considered exceedingly dangerous to take off the hatches for fear it would break forth, and destroy not only the ship itself, but also the other ships lying near. The hatches had become hot, and. the quarter-deck, as far back as the companion-way, was too warm to stand upon, when the captain gave orders to scuttle her* Three holes were accordingly made in her hull, and when the captain left her deck there were already several feet of water in her hold. She continued filling and sinking until morning, when her upper deck was level with the water. Soon after daylight divers were procured to go down and stop up the scuttle holes, and cork up the cabin windows, to prepare for pumping her out. Thirty-six hours* labor of fifty men, sufliced to get the water all out, and as soon as possible the cargo was on the wharf, when it was ascertained that the ship had received but little or no damage from the fire, and but a small portion of the cargo had been injured except by the water. The fire had been- principally confined to some fanning-mills, which were stored upder the main hatchway. On the Monday following, the damaged goods were sold at auction for the benefit of the underwriters, and the captain went about repairing his vessel in order to proceed on his voyage to the Columbia River. The (Jhenamus is a fine brig, built expressly for the Pacific trade, and owned by Captain Cushing, the father of the Hon. Caleb Cushing, the pre- sent minister from the United States to China. He has established a commercial house in Oregon, and carries on an extensive trade with the settlers in that new and rsing country. ••1 i i i 1 "r 't f M '! ' f ' 1 5 ' ' 20(V HOMEWARD BOUND. In consequence of the unfortunate accident to the Chenamus, we were detained for five weeks, during which we had an opportunity of extending our observa- tions on the missions, government, commerce, &c., of the Sandwich Islands. . 'V ;#\'.-i:- M>j 1 "f^ , ^- ' i',V»,„>«;i- jxti, to the ' during ')8erva- :c., of v^i^ ■f. ■,: ■ (it,- MfL. . -■.^■ ' CHAPTER XI. View of the Sanawich lalanda — How formed — Volcano — Cora) Reeta — Nainaa of lalanda — When discovered — Singular tradition — Coolc'a death — Population — Prerious condition — Long and bloodj war — Retulta — Miaaionary autiatics — EITecta of Miaaionary labor -- Seaman'a Chaplaincy — Romaniam — Kamaham- ha in — Reformation — Singular cuatom — School for young ehiefa — Influence of Miaaionariea — The King'a Cabinet — Important hiatory of two l^uudred and aeventy-six daya — Increase of Cabinet — Paper King — Protection — Commerce — • Whale Fishery — Prodnctiona — Society — Temperance — Destination of the Islands. The Sandwich Islands, in common with a vast number of others in the Pacific Ocean, have doubtless been formed by volcanic action, in connexion with the operations of the coral worm. Doubts mav reasonably oe indulged in relation to the causes which have produced the present form of many other portions of the globe, but there can be none concerning the manner in which the Sandwich Islands first emerged from the bosom of the deep. That they have been thrown up by volcanic eiruptions is evident, from the numerous old craters which appear on all parts of the islands; from the vast quantities of con- gealed lava everywhere observable; from the nature of the soil, it being nothing more, nor less than decomposed iava, and from the present existence of an active vol- cano on the principal island of the group. This burning mountain, known by the name of the volcano of Kilawea, is situated on the island of Hawaii, or Owyhee, as it was formerly called; and from its continued action in casting up immense quantities of lava, stones, and dirt, which in some instances have been known to roll down the sides of the mountain in such vast quantities, as, in their pro- gress, to fill up the deep ravines washed in the sides of the mountain, and sometimes to bury up the cottages of the natives with their occupants, and extending quite to fU M U 1 208 SANDWICH ISLANDS. the ocean, enlarging even the island itself, must be viewed as disclosing the principal cause of the formation of this interesting collection of the Pacific Isles. Though the crater of this mountain is the only flue now open through which the subteranean fires discharge them- selves, yet doubtless all the old craters have, in their turn, served the same purpose; and from their appear- ance one is led to suppose that many of them may have been in action at the same time. There are different opinions entertained concerning the formation and continued enlargement of the coral reefs by which all the islands are surrounded. The prevailing opinion is that they owe their origin to the constant action of what is called " the coral worm." Though it appears evident that the above mentioned two causes have produced the Sandwich Islands, yet, after all, perhaps these are mere speculations, and they may have existed nearly in their present fonn since the period when the waters of the deluge were gathered to their original bed, and the ark rested on Mount Ararat. Be this as it may, there are ten of these isolated spots of earth embraced in the group known by the name of the Sandwich Islands. They are distinguished by the names of Hawaii, Maui, Oahu, Kawai, Molokai, Lanai, Niihau and Kahoolame. The two I have not mentioned are of no note, being small and barren, and containing no permanent inhabitants. The existence of these islands first became known to the civilized world in 1778. Captain James Cook, the celebrated English navigator, is entitled to the credit of the first discovery of this interesting group, to which he fave their present name, in honor of Lord Sandwich, is principal friend and patron in the British government. He was on one of his voyages to the north-west coast of the American continent, for the purpose of searching for a north-west passage from the Pacific to the Atlantic ocean, when he fell in with these islands. On a subse- quent visit to them, it is generally known that he fell a victim to the barbarity of the savages, the existence of whom he had revealed to the world. When Captain m SANDWICH ISLANDS. 209 Cook first arrived at the iBlands, he was received by the natives with great veneration as a supreme being. This, in part, arose from the following singular tradition. The Hawaiians have, from time immemorial, entertained a belief in a deity, or goddess, which they called Pele. She, they believed, had the control of the volcano of Kilawea. Lono, one of the chiefs, was the friend of Pele, but when once he happened to insult her, she was angry and began to pursue him. He fled in great terror, and pass- ing his home in his flight, he cried, ** Aloha, Aloha," to his wife and children, but could not stop, for Pele was near in pursuit. Shortly he came to the shore where he found a man just landing in a fishing canoe, and, to escape the vengeance of Pele, he immediately siezed the canoe and pushed out to sea. When Captain Cook first arrived he forthwith received the name of Lono, the people supposingvhim to be the same personage who had left in a canoe, now returned in a much larger vessel. But the reverence which they manifested for Cook did not long continue. From an unrestrained intercourse with them, they found him to be a man like themselves; and conceiving a strong dislike for him on account of some supposed injuries which he and his men had inflic- ted upon them, they resolved upon his distruction, and accordingly he fell beneath the weight of a Hawaiian club, near the village of Kadmaloa, on the shore of Kaalakekua Bay, and on the island of Hawaii. A stick of cocoa set up in the fissure of the rocks a few feet from the water s edge, marks the place \/here the gallant navigator met his untimely fate. The population of the Islands, when first discovered, as estimated by Captain Cook, was four hundred thousand. If this was a correct estimate, during the forty-five years following Cook's discovery, we find a decrease in the population of two hundred and fifty-seven thousand nine hundred and fifty; for in 1823 we find a population of only one hundred and forty-two thousand and fifty. A census was taken in 1832, and it was found that tne decrease for the nine previous years amounted to eleven 9* I 210 SANDWICH ISLANDS. M ll-:i '.;- a; T thousand seven hundred and thirty-seven, leaving a pop- ulation at that time of one hundred and thirty thousand three hundred and thirteen. Another census was taktn in 1836, which revealed the astonishing decrease of twenty-one thousand seven hundred and thirty in four years. One of the missionaries, the Rev. W. P. Alex- ander, in 1838, calculated that there were annually, in all the islands, six thousand eight hundred and thirty- ei^ht deaths, and only three thousand three hundred and thirty-five births. I have frequently conversed with missionaries who have been for many years upon the islands, and they all agree in stating that the yearly deaths at the present time bear about the proportion to the yearly births of seven to three; and that only about one-half of the marriages lead to ofispring. Allowing that there has been twenty thousand decrease from 1836 to 1846, and it will not fall short of this, there is now a population of eighty-eight thousand five hundred and seventy-nine. This brings us to the lamentable result, that since the discovery of the island in 1778 there has been an average annual decrease of four thousand five hundred and eighty. The astonishing rapidity of the decrease of Hawaiian population, is, perhaps, without a parallel in the history of nations, not excepting the ill- fated Indians of North America. In beholding the downward career of the Hawaiians in respect to population, one is led to inquire for the causes which have produced these astonishing results. These are numerous, and amon^ the principal are the sweeping pestilence which raged with singular fatality during the vears 1803 and 1804, the destructive wars o? Kamehamena the first, and the almost universal preva- lence, and uncontrolled progress of a disease said to have been introduced by the vicious crew belonging to the vessel of Captain Cook, and as fatal in its ravages, as it is loathsome to contemplate. The laxity of native mor- als, which has always existed among the Hawaiians, is a sufficient cause why this disease should prevail among them to an unusual extent; and this very cause adds to the efifect of the disease in preventing offspring. Hitherto SANDWICH ISLANDS. 211 all the efforts of the missionaries and the medical men in the islands to stop the ravages of the disease, have been ineifectual, and it is extremely doubtful whether any means can be devised sufficient to roll back the tide of death which threatens the destruction of the Hawaiian nation. Great changes had taken place in the political and religious history of the Hawanan nation previous to the arrival of the first missionaries. Many of these resul- ted from the free intercourse of the people of other nations with the islanders, so soon as their existence be- came known to the civilized world. When they were first discovered, the islands were governed by a number of independent chiefs, and all the people were held under the iron control of a system of idolatry, called the Tabu system. After a few years' intercourse with foreigners, beholding their vast superiority over themselves, arising, as they supposed, from the difference of their religion, there arose a party among the natives who rejected their ancient Tabu, and embraced in theory so far as they understood it, the religion of the foreigners. At first this party was small, out continuing to increase, it at length embraced nearly one half of the nation. Kame- hameha was the first chief to declare himself openly against the Tabu system. At that time he was a petty chief, controlling but a small portion of the island oi Hawaii. But being more enlightened than his country- men, and withal ambitious and enterprising in his habits, he resolved to attempt the accomplishment of a revolu- tion in both the government and religion of his country. But the cruel system of idolatry against which Kame- hameha had arrayed himself, strengthened as it was by ages of uninterrupted growth, was not to be destroyed without a powerful struggle, its friends and supporters still being more numerous than its enemies. The most violent enmity had grown up betwixt the two parties, and at length Kamehameha found himself involved in the most bloody war. All the principal chiefs were upon the side of the Tabu, and it became necessary for Kame- UV2 S AM) W It'll ISIMNUS. J!^'* 1 hameha to fight them successively. He first turned his attention to ttie subjugation of his own native island of Hawaii, and meeting the chiefs with their forces in battle, his own superior skill and prowess prevailed, and he soon found the island of Hawaii, containing then more than one hundred thou8ai;4 inhabitants, prostrate at his feet. Here establishing his authority by the wise use of every necessary precaution, he prepared for the invasion of the other islands. He met the adherents of the Tabu on the islands of Maui, Kauai, Lanai, and Morokai, in battle, and in every instance triumphed over them. Those of his enemies who escaped took refuge on the island of Oahu. Here an army of men as large as that which Kamehameha had drawn to his standard, had col- lected, and resolved to make one more desperate stand, to support their favorite Tabu. At length the conquer- ing chief effected a landing on the island of Oahu, and the opposing forces met in the rear of the city of Hono- lulu, and fought the last and bloodiest battle of the whole war. The victory of Kamehameha was complete, his enemies were anruhilated, and he was forthwith pro- claimed king of the Hawaiian nation. Providing for the government of Oahu, Kamehameha returned to Kailue on his native island, and in £i pro- clamation to the nation announced that the old Tabu system was at an end. Thus fell idolatry on the Sand- wich Islands, and thus all the group were connected together under one government. At the head stood the victorious chieftain who had effected the revolution, under the title of King Kamehameha the First. It was in this condition that the first missionaries found the islands on their arrival. Providence had prepared the way for them in the destruction of the bloody sys- tem of idolatry which had reigned over the islands for ages, and accordingly the first news that saluted them on approaching Hawaii, was, "Kamehameha is king, and the Tabu is destroyed." It was on the 4th day of April, 1820, that the brig Ths^ddeus, from Boston, with seven male and seven ifcfc-infiSi SANDWICH IHLANOtf. 213 female missionaries came to anchor in the bay of Kailua, and on the 8th the king and chiefs consented to their landing and residing on the island. Three * years afterwards a reinforcement arrived, consisting of seven males, and six females. A second reinforcement of six males and ten females, arrived in the spring of 1828 ; a third, of four males and four females, in the spring of 1831 ; a fourth, of ten males and nine females, in the spring of 1832 ; a fifth, of two males and two females, in the spring of 1833 ; a sixth, of three males and five females, in the sprine of 1835 ; a seventh, fifteen males and seventeen females, in the spring of 1837 ; an eighth, of four males and four females, in the spring of 1841. In January, 1842, one male and one female joined the mission at the islands from the Oregon Mission. A ninth reinforcement, of two males and two females, from the United States, arrived in September, 1842. This makes an aggregate of sixty-one males and sixty-seven females wno have been employed on the mission «ince its first establish- ment twenty-six years ago. Of these a number have died, some have returned to the United States, some have become disconnected with the mission and remain at the islands, and others continue their labors as mis- sionaries in behalf of the Hawaiian race. The greatest number of laborers in the field at one time, has not exceeded about eighty adults, or forty families, and this has been near the average number for the last ten years. Of course, to sustain so large an establishment^ the expenditures must have been very great. These have been incurred in supporting the missionaries, and providing them with dwellings ; m the printing and binding of books for the seminary and other public schools ; in the erection of churches and schoolhouses, and in the circulation of books. The entire amount expended, from the first establishment of the mission up to 1844, according to the report of the financial agent, amounted to six hundred and eight thou- sand, eight hundred and sixty-five dollars. Fifty thou- sand dollars of this was furnished by the American Bible 214 sandwici; islands. 1 I i-l» 1 Society ; nineteen thousand seven hundred and seventy- four dollars by the American Tract Society, and five hundred and thirty-nine thousand and ninety dollars by the A. B. C. F. M. Eighteen mission stations have been established, and continue to be occupied ; six on Hawaii, four on Maui, four on Oahu, three on Kauai, and one on M orokai. In addition to two printing offices and a bindery, a commo- modious seminary, school-houses, and churches, forty permanent dwelling-houses have been erected for the accommodation of the missionaries, that in appearance would not disgrace any of the villages of Western New York. The results of all tnis immense labor and expense are sufficient to estabhsh in every reflecting mind, the utility of christian nnssions. The great object held in view in the missionary enterprise, is the conversion of the hea- then to the Lord Jesus Christ, and their final salvation in the kingdom of heaven. As it regards the first, by missionary eflfort, Christianity has been introduced into the Sandwich Islands, and adopted as the religious sys- tem of the nation. Twenty-three christian churches have been gathered, and embraced, on the first of April, 1843, twenty-three thousand eight hundred and four members in regular standing. In addition to this, the Hawaiian language has been systematized and reduced to writing ; fifty thousand copies of the New Testament and twenty thousand of the Old Testament have issued from the Hawaiian press ; seventy different works, scientifical, historical, and religious, have been translated and published ; one-half of the adult population have been taught to read, and nearly all of the children of the islands, are now gathered into the schools. A mis- sion seminary where the higher branches are taught, has been in operation for years, and usually numbers about one hundred and thirty students. A female semi- nary of a similar character numbers about eighty pupils. These are on the island of Maui. A boarding school for boys numbering sixty scholars, and one for girls of about twenty-five, are in operation on Hawaii. A SANnWICH ISLANDS. 315 boarding school for the young chiefs, and a number of select schools at the various stations throughout the islands, and under the care of gentlemen and ladies be- longing to the mission. Reading, writing, geography, arithmetic, astronomy, geometry, trigonometry, mensu- ration, surveying, navigation, algebra, history, phyloso- phy, &c., are taught in these schools, some of wMch are already beginning to rank with the academies of New England. These are some of the direct benefits resulting from missionary efforts, as they exhibit themselves on thie Sandwich Islands ; and in viewing them we can form some conception of the value of those efforts which have accomplished this work, considered with respect to time. But who can estimate the value of a soul, the redemption of which cost the infinite price of a Re- deemer's blood 1 When I take a view of the small amount of money and labor expended, the little suffering endured, and the few lives sacrificed in the missionary cause, and connect them as instrumentalities with the eternal salvation of souls as the object, I am led to exclaim, my God! how trifling are the means used in comparison to the great end accomplished! And yet thousands from the Sandwich Islands will share in the blesscdnee« of the first resurrection, because these in- strumentalities have been used in their behalf, and the Divine blessing has accompanied the efforts which have been made. In addition to the results of these efforts, as already stated, it rnay be proper *o remark that the government has assumed a much more stable and consistent charac- ter than it formerly possessed. Written laws have been enacted by which the people are better secured from oppressive exactions on the part of their rulers, and encouraged to cultivate industrious and virtuous habits. The security, stability, and value of property have been greatly enhanced. Diplomatic intercourse has been opened with other and greater nations, among which are England, the United States, and France, all of which have acknowledged the independence of the islands, and ..'^ 216 SANDWICH ISLANDS* 1 express an interest in their prosperity. Indeed, a great change for the better has tAen place, and, though it is true that, still Hawaiian society is in a very crude state, and is susceptible of vast improvement, it is not the less true that the wonderful change through which it has passed since the cross was first planted upon the islands, is Without parallel in the history of ancient or modern times. 1 +»j There are few subjects presenting themselves to the visitor at the islands, more interesting than the Seaman's Chaplaincy, at Honolulu. The fact that the American Seaman's Friend Society, in addition to many other places in the world, have directed their pious benevo- lence to the greatest seaport of the Sandwich Islands, should be regarded as evidence of the importance of the place as well as of the discrimination of the mana- gers of that society. They have here erected a chapel on a most eligible site, which is conveniently fitted up to accommodate two or three hundred hearers. In the basement there is a depository for Bibles and Tracts, which may here be found in English, German, French, Danish, and most other European languages, and are carefully and liberally distributed. The Bethel Flag floats from a staff elevated from the top of the steeple, inviting the mariner to the house of prayer. Puolic worship is performed every Sunday morning and even- ing ; there is a meeting every Thursday evening for prayer and religious conference, and a monthly seamen's concert for prayer ; both held in the vestry, and well attended. The chaplain also invites all seamen to his private residence, where he instructs, advises, reproves, and exhorts, as occasion may require, and distributes Bibles, Tracts, '^cc, to those who attend, with great assiduity, as they are received with many thanks by the sailors, and open sources of unspeakable consolation to many of them, while prosecuting their hazardous em- ployment. The society has been peculiarly fortunate in their choice of chaplains for this important post. The present incumbent is the Rev. Samuel C. Damon, who has SANDWICH ISLANDS. 217 officiated since the death of his predecessor, the Rev. John Diell. Mr. D&mon is well qualified for the place he is called to fill, and his performances in the pulpit are alike creditable to himself as a clergymaii and man of letters, and well adapted to the varied circumstances of his hearers. His audience is frequently composed of English lords and knights, consuls and consul generals, admirals and rear admirals, the king of the islands and his suite, the ardent votaries of wealth in the character of merchants and sea captains, naval oflficers of different nations, common seamen and Kanakas. His subjects are well chosen to arrest the attention of all these, nor does he shun to declare unto them all the counsel of God. In addition to his ordinary labors as chaplain, which alone are very arduous, he is the editor of a very inte- resting and -useful paper called "The Friend of Tempe- rance and Seamen." About four hundred seamen annually visit him at his study, to receive religious instruction, and advicer From a <:onsideration of these facts, I am led fully to the conclusion that the seaman's chaplaincy at Honolulu is every way worthy to-be sustained. Since the French compelled the Hawaiians to receive with their brandy, Roman Catholic missionaries, Catholic- ism has been making rapid advances among the natives, and thereby presenting a great obstacle in the way of the final success of the Protestant missionaries. Ac- cording to the best information I could obtain, there were nine Catholic priests on the islands, and the bap- tized members of the church amounted in all to about twelve thousand five hundred, besides those who were under preparatory training. They have one hundred schools established, containing upwards of three thousand scholars. These are under the direction of priests, sisters of charity, and native teachers. The catholic cathedral is by far the most sightly looking church in Honolulu, and is under 'the charge of the Rev. the Abbe Maigret, of the Society of Peipus, in Paris. In connection with the cathedral there is a school of three hundred scholars, of both 218 SANDWICH ISLANDS. 1 sexes, under the superintendence of the Abbe himself, whose services are without charge to those who belong to his communion. Some time in 1842 a vessel sailed from France, containing a bishop for the islands, seven priests, and twelve sisters of charity ; but she has nevei been heard of since she left the coast of Brazil, and is supposed to have been lost in the vicinity of Cape Horn. King Kamehameha III. and his small court have for several years resided chiefly at Lahaira, in the island of Maui, but in June, 1844, they removed their residences to the city of Honolulu^ on the Island Oahu. At this place a palace has been recently erected in a conspicuous part of the city, and when the public grounds surround- ing it are properly improved and ornamented, will pre- sent an imposing appearance, and constitute a suitable residence for the royal family. Until recently, it has been extremely doubtful whethei the Hawaiian government would continue in existence for any length of time, but now his majesty Kameham- eha ill, is recognized as belonging to the family of independent sovereigns, and efforts are being made by his ministers to place his court, and organize his tribunals on a footing corresponding with his present situation. As the ministers of the king are principally Americans, and of course unaccustomed to the forms of ceremony observed in royal palaces, it may be expected that the code of court etiquette which they have adopted, may be somewhat defective. If by some strange metamor- phosis, a republican is transformed into an aristocrat, he generally surrounds himself with an excess of cere- mony, and on this ground fault has been found with the code of etiquette which the ministers of Kamehameha III. have thrown around the court. Formerly the king was approachaVie on all occasions, and by every body ; now a routine of ceremony must be observed before even a sea captain can gain an audience. This is pecu- liarly trying to those English and American residents who have formerly had free access to the royal presence. Though this privilege is now denied the people generally, 6ANDWICH ISLANDS. 219 yet, on proper application being previously m^^de, the representatives of foreign powers, are, at all times, admitted to a personal interview with the king, for the purpose of submitting to his majesty any case of well founded grievance which any of their countrymen may have against the authorities of the land. The character of the king since he came to the throne, has undergone a very great change. Formerly he was adicted to low and degrading vjce^, among which intem- perance was one of the most prominent, but some ten or twelve years ago, a thorough reformation took place in his majesty, and he is now not only a consistent temperance man, but also a member of the church of Christ. Though there are a few individuals at Honolulu who are disposed to censure, and find fault with everything and everybody in the islands, yet none seem inclined to complain of his majesty Kamehameha III. The general testimony is favorable to the goodness of his disposition, the upright- ness of his intentions, and his clemency and kindness to his subjects. None accuse him of cruelty or tyrtnny, and many, qualified to judge, concur in ascribing to him considerable native talent, and much acquired informa- tion. His majesty is an example of sobriety to his sub- jects, regular in his attendance at church, and zealous in the discouragement of all Pagan rites, and the establish- ment of the Christian religion in the nation. He is now thirty-three years of age; and was married in 1837 to Kalama, by whom he has no offspring. In the probable event of his having no lineal successor, the crown wfll devolve on Alexander Liholiho, whom the king has adopted for that purpose. He is an active and promising lad, now in the twefth year of his age. A very singular custom prevails in the Hawaiian monarchy of appointing a female prime minister of the kingdom. It is said this custom originated in the will of Kamehameha I, which declared his son Liholiho his successor in the throne, but that Kaahumanu, his favorite jmeen, should be his minister. The present premier is Kekauluohi, who is about fifty years df age, very digni- ■ied in her appearance, and much respected by all classes. 220 SANDWICH ISLANDS. m i !i f ^ii Her prerogatives are nearly equal to tliose of the king, and whatever she does in tne realm, is to be considered as executed by his authority; but the king has a veto on her acts, while, on the other hand, his own are not bind- ing unless approved of by her. SJie has an interesting son, William Charles Lunalilo, about twelve years of age, but his sex disqualifies him from being her successor; consequently, Victoria Kamamalu, who is eight years of age, is the reputed heir to the premiership. Alexander and Victoria are both the children of Kekuanaoa, the present governor of Oahu, by Kaahu- mana the former premier of the kingdom. These chil- dren, with all the other young chiels of the realm, are under the care of Mr. and Mrs. Cooke, who are mem- bers of the mission, and who spare no pains to fit them, through a proper education and training, for the high functions which they are destined to fill. To the mis- sionaries belongs the merit of having excited the king and chiefs of the islands to desire a school for the sys- tematic education of those children into whose hands would fall the future destiny of the government. By the request and concurrence of the km^ and chiefs, in 1839, Mr. and Mrs. Cooke were selected by the mission as suitable persons to undertake the education of the young chiefs. The building occupied by this school of the chiefs, is situated in a retired part of the city of Honolulu, and, though it cost but two thousand dollars, being constructed of sun-dried adobes, is commodiously arranged to secure the purposes of its construction. It contains seventeen rooms in all, of various dimensions, opening into a court in the centre thirty-six feet square, the outside of the building being seventy-six feet square. The school room is very conveniently arranged, and books, maps, stationery, and globes terrestrial and celes- tial, are at all times accessible to the scholars, and there is also an excellent apparatus to illustrate tht movements of the planets which compose our solar sysu-in. The scholars are fifteen in number, seven males and ei^ht females, and each of them has from two to six native attendants in the character of grooms, tailors, washers, SANDWICH ISLANDS. 221 &c., according to the rank, age, and sex of each. These attendants are ali under the direction of John Li and his wife, who are both very respectable natives, and who co-operate with Mr. and Mrs. Cooke in excluding these attendants from any intimacy with the young chiefs which might prove prejudicial to their welfare. Reading, writing, spelling, arithmetic, geography, history, draw- ing, HI usic, vocal and instrumental, are the principal branches of education which these future rulers of the islands are receiving at the hands of Mr. and Mrs. Cooke. These interesting youth, ih every department of educa- tion, show a tractabiiity quite equal to any other children of the same ages, and under similar circumstances; and it is quite evident that, under the excellent government and tuition of Mr. and Mrs. Cooke, these young chiefs will be prepared to go f^rth into the world and nil their respective stations, with a fund of knowledge vastly superior to that of their predecessors^ and it is equally obvious, that the administration of these future rulers, must be immeasurably more enlightened than any that has ever before existed in the islands. Yet the tongue of calumny has represented the appointment of Mr. and Mrs. Cooke to their responsible station, as a measure having no higher object, than the selfish policy of priest' craft, • As might be expected, the missionaries, from the posi- tion, they have occupied, have exerted a controlling influence in the councils of the Hawaiian government, for many years, but the first appointment from among them to any office in the government was that of the Rev. William Richards in 1838 to the office of teacher or counsellor of the chiefs. This appointment was made in accordance with a request of the king and chiefs, and accepted by Mr. Richards at first, but for one year. Subsequently he received a higher appointment, and filling the diflferent offices 'i)f privy counsellor, secretary of state, and embassador to a foreign court, he has been one of the principal actors in the government since his first apnointment. Another appointment to a responsible office in the 222 SANDWICH ISLANBS. f . # ':H'i :t government took place from among the missionaries in 1842, which became a matter of much serious contro- versy in the islands, and perhaps of some willful misre- presentation. This was that of Dr. Gerritt P. Judd. This gentleman was solicited b]^ the king to accept of the office of interpreter, and giving up his connexion with the mission, he identified himself with the Hawaiian government. Some of the foreign residents, and partic- ularly the English, took occasion from this, to charge upon the missionaries a disposition to domineer over the king and people for the beliefit of themselves and of the American residents. If it was necessarv to appoint a foreigner to this office, doubtless Dr. Judd, from his thorough knowledge of the native language and charac- ter, was as well Qualified fis any man; and from his hav- ing voluntarily officiated, and possessing a high reputa- tion among the natives, it was natural that the choice of the king snoukl fall on him. In his new functions, the Doctor appears to have given great satisfkction, at least to the king, for during the troubles of the government with the English, he was appointed by the king to rep- resent his person, and after tne restoration of the islands from British rule, he was elevated to the high and respon- sible office of secretary of state for foreign affairs. A third appointment from amons the missionaries took place in 1845. This was that of 5ie Rev. Mr. Andrews to the office of supreme judge. As these three appoint- ments were made from amon^ themselves through the influence of the missionaries, it has been charged upon them by the enemies of the mission, that, forgetting their appropriate calling, they had used the extensive influ- ence thev had acquired m the nation to arrogate to them- selves dl the important offices of state, and the emolu- ments arising Yrom such offices. But, as it is the business of the journalist to state facts, and neither to condemn nor attempt a justification of the important transactions narrated, it will not be expected that I shall appear on either side of the unhappy controversy which has proved the source of so much disquietude to tne foreign residents on the S&iidwich Islai^ds. 6ANDW1CH iHLANOa. 223 In accepting the reins o£ government, when proffered to them, doubtless the missionaries acted under the influ- ence of a justifiable fear for the safety of the Protestant faith, which they had been instrumental in establishing in the islands; and it was natural for them to prefer a Christian Protestant to either an immoral or a Catholic domination. The history of the Sandwich Island government during the short space of two hundred and seventy-six days, in 1848, presents three' of the most remarkable and impor- tant events that ever trani^ired in a nation, in the same length of time. The first was the cession of the islands, by his majesty Kamahamaha and the Premier, on the 25th day of Feb- ruary, 1843, to the Rij^ht Hqn. Lord Georg^e Paulet, on the part of her Britanic Majesty, Victoria, Queen of Great Britain and Ireland; the second was the restor- ation of the islands to their native sovereign, on the 31st of July, 1843, by Rear Admiral Thomas; and the third was the united declaration of Great' Britain and France, dated on the 28th Nov., 1843, acknowledging the islands as an independent State, and ihutually engaging never to take possession, neither directly nor under the title of protectorate, or under any other form, of any part of the territory of which thejr are composed. Kamehameha III. was driven to cede his sovereignty to Great Britain provisionally, in consequence of charges being preferred against him by British subjects which he was utterly unable to meet, and which in fact were founded in great injustice. Under the influence of wise counsel the king preferred to lay aside his crown rather than act a dis- graceful part by complying with the exorbitant demands of the British Lord, and await for the final decision of Great Britain to announce that the Hawaiian government had passed away, or that the crown was still on the brow of Kamehameha III. While the question of the life or death of the Hawaiian government was pending, the British ensign was waving over the islands, and the reins of government were siezed by Lord George Paulet in the name of her majesty, Queen Victoria. His Lord- 224 SANDWICH ISLANDS. f.i n ■' ^ li ! m "\ . ship had the ncwior of standing at the head of the govern- ment of the islands during one hundred and nfty-six days; but on the arrival of Rear Adniiral Thomas, .in the CoUingwood line of battle ships, and the investigation of the grdunds of the difficulty by the Admiral, the course pursued by Lord Georce was unceremoniously condemned, and tne decision of the, British government was anticipated by Rear Admiral Thomas. The king "was restored to his just rights on the ^st of July, in a way calculated to preserve the respect due to royalty and restore confidence and good feeling anions all the foreign residents. On the issuing of his proclamation, declaring. that Kamehameha III. still reigned, Rear Ad- miral Thomas was hailed as the deliverer of the nation, and the f)eople were as loud in his piaises as they woro vociferous in their reproaches of Lord George; and the 31st of July was registered as a day to be ».»bserved as a national festival, to commemorate the re!«toration of Kamehameha to the throne of the Sandwich Islands, from which he had been unjustly driven. Since the settlement of these troubles and the acknow- ledgement of the independence of the islands by three great nations under an unusual engagement, the king appears to submit the governm ;nt principally into the hands of his foreign ministers. The cabinet, with the exception of the premier, is composed of foreigners, three of whom were formerly members of the American mission, and two arrived at the islands as mere private gentlemen. One of them, John Ricord, Esq., was a young adventurer from New York, who crossed the continent by the way of St. Louis and the RocHy Moun- tains, and came down to Oregon in the fall o^ 1843, ' professing that his sole errand to the Pacific was to seek a fortune. Not finding it readily along the coast of the Pacific, he resolved to commit himself to its winds and waves. Confined in Baker's Bay by a succession of storms which lasted forty days and forty nights, he at - length began to suspect that "Old Neptune " was suspi- cious that his motives for invading his donunions, were not of the purest kind; but finally hia doubts of the SANDWICH ISLANDS. !225 favor of Neptune subsided, as the angry elements were hushed to silence, and the gentle breeze wafted him through the gateway across the bar of the Columbia Twenty-four days brought him along side of Oahu, the sight of which he hailed with transport, as he felt that confidence which is the harbinger of success. Remain ing in a voluntary quarantine for a day or two, in conse- quence of the dilapidated state of his wardrobe, which he found it necessary to repair before appearing in pub- lic, he at length received an introduction to some of the members of the cabinet as a qualified member of the bar, from the Empire State. Possessing the advantages arising from a gentlemanly appearance, ready wit, and considerable suavity of manners, he succeeded immedi- ately in ingratiating himself into the good will of the members of the government, and on the ninth day after his arrival he took the oath of allegiance to Kamehameha III, and received the insignia of his appointment to the honorable and responsible office of Attorney General of the Sandwich Islands, with a salary of two thousand dollars per annum. The other was a Scotchman by the name of Robert Crichton Wyllie, who came to the islands in the company of General Miller, her Britanic Majesty's Consul G^eneral for the islands of the Pacific. Probably Mr. Wyllie owes his promotion to his present distinguished office to the interesting ** Notes" on the population, religion, agriculture and commerce of the islands, which he pub- lished soon after his arrival. In these notes the mission- aries are very highly commended, and some very wise suggestions are made concerning the future policy of the Sandwich Islands' government. The cabinet of Kamehameha III, at present stands as follows: Dr. G. P. Judd, Minister for the Interior, Rev. Mr. Richards, Privy Counsellor, Rev. Mr. Andrews, Supreme Judge, Hon. John Ricord, Attorney General, and Robert Crichton Wyllie, Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs. These five functionaries constitute the government of the Sandwich Islands, for every thing goes according to their direction. In all the great trans- 10 r 226 SANDWICH IriLASnti, s^ r I fi U m !! il :i It 4'v » actions of the nation in its intercourse with other nations, and also in most of its internal affairs, the kinff in reality has no nnorc power than one of his inferior cniefs. He says himself, that he is a mere ** paper king," that his foreign ministers do the business, and bring him the papers to sign, and all he has to do is to obey them. In consequence of this apparent assumption of f ower on the part of the foreigners connected with the government, it has been charged upon them by some, that they are actuated by motives of selfish ambition; that they art- fully dupe the king and his native suite, by filling them with a sense of their own importance, when in reality they are mere cyphers, and in this way succeed in pro- moting their own aggrandizement. But the truth is that, with all the improvement the islanders have made, they still remain grossly ignorant, especially on the great principles of government; and, so extensive is their inter- course with other nations, and so complicated the business to be transacted, that the king finds it indispensibly ne- cessary to put the helm of government into the hands of enlightened foreigners; and thus far he has been pecu- liarly fortunate in the selections he has made, judging from the course which has been pursued. For while his ministers have been careful to guard their own reputa- tion, they have acted as though they believed, that their success in this depended on their faithfulness in guarding the honor and interests of the king. As a matter of course, since the recognition of the Sandwich Islands as belonging to the great family of kingdoms, the ministers, and aU the public functionaries are putting on much of the dignity and importance of royalty, but on some of them who have been altogether unaccustomed to such high honors as result from their offices, the garments of court etiquette hang but loosely; nevertheless they may be considered as skillful politicians if they steer the government ship so as to escape the Sylla on the one hand, and Charybdis on the other, to which she is continually exposed. Now that the three greatest naval powers on earth have entered into a mutual understanding never to take possession of the SANDWICH I0LANU0. 337 islands under any pretence whatever, the safety and perpetuity of thr government depend upon the course which shall be pursued with other nations. So long as no just grounds of Iiostility are afforded, the engagement betwixt the three great powers would lead them to remonstrate effectively against any aggression which might endanger the existence of the government. If the astonishing mortality which has prevailed so long among the natives, can by any means be checked, and the fountains of life be purified, so that children shall again be multiplied in the islands, and the decrease of numbers be effectually staid, then may we expect to see, in the future history of the Sandwich Islands, a satisfac- tory proof of the ability of the copper-colored race to govern themselves, and to become truly civilized. But if the tide of death shall continue to sweep on for fifty years to come, the Hawaiian nation will be numbered among the things that have been. In connection with this view of the government, it may be proper to consider their means of protection. Commanding the anchorage is a fort mounting seventy guns, varying m calibre from the long brass thirty-two pounder down to the four pounder. The fort is nearly a quadrangle, with the guns pointing on all sides, and consequently few in proportion, pointing to seaward. A small naval force would be sufficient to silence the guns of the fort, in a short period. As the fort affords no adequate means of protection from an attack by sea, the money laid out for its erection and the purchase of the guns mounted upon it, one of which cost the Hawai- ians the sum of ten thousand dollars, was very foolishly expended. So far as their being able to defend them- selves by this fort is concerned, they may as well melt down their big guns and cast them into poi-pots as to 'continue the fort as it now is. It will probably soon bt demolished, and another one will be erected on the reef, seaward of the present one, which, under the direction of a skillful engineer, will serve a much better purpose. There is a remarkable hill in the rear of Honolulu which overlooks the city and harbor, called by the 228 OANOWICtt laLANUfiU it ! ill : I ;■ natives Puawana, and by foreigners Punch Bowl HilL The top of this hill is concave, the center of it being from forty to fifty feet lower than the outer edge. It is one of those extinct volcanoes, whose former active operation is satisfactorily established^ by the ditferent strata of vitrified lava descending from the top of the hill on all sides, at the depth of from four to six feet from the surface of the soil. On the almost circular edge of this hill, on the side next the city, are planted eleven lar^e guns, pointing different ways ; but lying on the ground, sfnd being at too great a distance from the harbor, they are entirely useless as a means of defence. Of this the government are fully aware ; but they continue the guns in their present eleva' jd position for the purpose of firing salutes on the king's birth-day, and on other great occasions. These being all the visible means of protection which the Hawaiians have, it is obvious that they will owe their safety, not so much to any martial array they can muster, whether on land or water, as to an impartial adminiF>tration of justice to all nations with whom they have intercourse. The prosperity of the islands is entirely dependent on their commerce, and the annual visits of whalers and ships of war. The commerce of the port of Honolulu, in 1943, was as follows, viz : twenty-five American ves- sels, nine British, four French, one Spanish, and one German. During the same year the port was visited by one hundred and nine whaJers, and ten ships of war. The merchant ships left goods to the amount of upwards of one hundred and fifty-six thousand dollars, and the whale ships to twenty-one thousand eight hundred dol- lars, it IS estimated that the visit of every whaler is worth to the islands from eight to fifteen hundred dollars, and every ship of war considerably more. Besides the amount of vegetables, &c., sold to the various ships touching at the port, there was exported, in 1843, in the produce of the islands, consisting of sugar, molasses, Kukui oil, bullock-hides, goat-skins, arrow-root, and mustard-seed, the amount of ninety-one thousand two himdred and forty-five dollars, r- v- SANDWICH tSLANM. S99 wl HilL it being :e. It is active different p of the six feet circular ! planted lying on "rom the defence, lut they ition for day, and visible ve, it is much to I land or ice to all ndent on ilers and lonolulu, ican ves- and one LS visited i of war. upwards and the dred dol- ivhaler is d dollars, sides the >us ships iS, in the molasses, Dot, and land two The net revenue of the kingdom in the same year, •mbracing duties, harbor dues, &c., amounted to fifty thousand dollars. But, as the islands depend mainly upon the whale ships that annually flock to their ports, for their prosperity, it is obvious that, were the whale fishery to fall off, or were the vessels engaged in it to abandon the islands for some port on the mam land, the Sandwich Islands would relapse into their primitive insignificance. The diversion of whalers to some other port has been a subject of alarm to the Hawaiian government, espe- cially since it has been obvious that Upper California, with its splendid bay of San Francisco, would soon be- come the property of the United States. So long as this ndblest harbor of the Pacific coast is blockaded against whalers by the enormous port charges enforced by the mistaken policy of Mexico, the Sandwich Islands have nothing to fear ; but, when Mexico shall relinquish her hold on California, and a large commercial city shall adorn the shore of San Francisco, whose quiet harbor, free of charges, shall invite the weather beaten whale- man, then a fatal ^.heck will be given to the prosperity of the islands, and much of their present importance will disappear. The great value of this fishery to those places where the ships are under the necessity of putting in to procure supplies, will appear if we consider its amazing extent. Take for instance one single year. Of six hundred American whalers that were in active operation on the different oceans, three hundred and sixty-seven visited the two ports of the Sandwich Islands, Lahaira and Honolulu in 1843, some of them twice in the same year. Surely no nation ever sent out such an immense fleet of whalers as now sail from the ports of the United States. Bold and adventurous, the Americans carry this enter- prise into every portion of the world frequented by the object of their perilous search. There is no sea that is not whitened with their canvass, and no climate that does not witness their toils. While we look for them among the icebergs of the arctic regions, they are seen !i! 280 SANDWICH ISLANDS. 11 1 i' '^1 I Mi ii' 1 ■:: ill crossing the antarctic circle, and hovering around the south pole. They explore the vast extent of the At- lantic, Pacific and Indian Oceans, while the Carzette Islands, New Hoihmd, and New Zealand are witness to their hardy and persevering industry. And as the im- mense fleet of whalemen sailing from the United States around Cape Horn have ' een dependent upon the Sand- wich Islands for their supplies, so they have given to the islands much of the importance whicn they now possess ; and if the inhabitants of the island:^ wish to preserve the valuable trade arising from this fishery, they will find it necessary to remove all the disadvantages of port charges under which whalemen now labor, in visiting their harbors. Few portions of the world afford a greater variety of productions than the Sandwich Islands. As the temper- ature in the different parts varies from forty to ninety degrees in the shade, so nearly all the productions of the temperate and torrid zones, here come to maturity. In the Hawaiian markets of their own production, may be found arrow-root, sugar-cane, Kukui oil, castor oil, mustard seed, coflfee, indigo, cotton, cabbages, pine- apples, pumpkins, melons, oranges, bananas, figs, grapes, sweet potatoes, Irish potatoes, onions, taro, Indian corn, wheat, rice, tobacco, beef, pork, goats, turkeys, fowls, cocoanuts, mangoes, and bread-fruit. Though the pro- ductions are thus various, the staff* of fife amongst the natives is the taro-root. This root is cultivated on patches of ground wholly covered with water, so that the plant is wholly immersed, excepting the large green leaves. It grows to the size of a large potato ; is boiled by the natives; prepared in the form of paste, and eaten either alone or with dried fish. It is considered a wholesome food, and exceedingly nutritious. When thus prepared it is called poi, and being almost indispen- sable to the subsistence oi the natives, it forms one of the principal articles of trafliic among them. Society in Honolulu becomes a subject of interest to all, whether transient visitors, or residents. Though there are some jealousies existing betwixt the subjects X SANDWICH ISLANDS. %n *T' of difterent nations concerning the degree of favor which they respectively enjoy under the government, the British complaining that the Vmericans have more than themselves, and the Americans, that the privileges enjoyed by the British, are much greater than theirs, and the French, that they are much worse off than either the British or Americans ; yet all visitors agree in attributing to the foreign residents at Honolulu a degree of hospitality and good feeling not often enjoyed in any other part of the world. This virtue is not con- fined to the missionary families, but is a general charac- teristic of the foreign society. Strangers who come well recommended, are immediately introduced into society of a highly intellectual and polished character, consisting of consuls and other resident officers, naval captains and merchants, and American and English ladies, many of whom are highly accomplished, and possess greater personal charms than usually falls to the lot of even the fair sex. Embracing the missionary ladies, there are about thirty in Honolulu, whose pre- sence would add polish to the very best society our country affords. One characteristic of Hawaiian society is peculiarly striking. It is the almost universal regard paid to the Sabbam. Whether this arises from a deep religious feeling or froia custom, I cannot say ; but certainly there are few places of the same extent where more decency and order are observed on this day than are apparent in Honolulu. With the exception of a few of the oldest residents, who have always habituated them- selves to the license and misrule of heathenism, all the foreign residents are regular in their attendance at the house of God. Indeed, it is very seldom that the quiet of the Sabbath is broken, either by strangers or the natives themselves. Though there is a class in Honolulu that " look into the cup when it is red, that continue till night, till wine inflame them," yet I should not be doing justice to t'le society of the place, if I did not bear witness to the general prevalence of temperance. During the three Mill 232 SANDWICH ISLANDS. S < !% I ' ' months which I have spent on the islands, I have seldom seen a drunken man, either native or foreigner. There are no beggars parading the streets, few petty thefts committed, no robberies, seldom an assault or act of violence, unless provoked by a white man. Yet, not- withstanding all this, and all that has been done for their beneht, the state of the native Hawaiians is still truly deplorable. To call them a christianized, civilized, happy, and prosperous people, would be to mislead the public mind in relation to their true condition. All these terms when applied to the Hawaiians, should be greatly qualified. Their state appears to be that spoken of by the prophet Zechariah as a day which should be neitner light nor dark, with this difference, perhaps, that in the case of the Hawaiians, there is still more of night than of day, more of darkness than of light. To an inquiry which I made of the Rev. Lowel Smith, one of the missionaries in Honolulu, concerning the prosperity of the natives, I received this reply : " The evident tendencjr of things is downward." Downward it is rapidly, in point of numbers, and if the ratio of decrease shall continue the same for only a few years, it does not require the eye of a prophet to see what will be the result. The epitaph of the nation will be written, and Anglo Saxons will convert the islands into another West Indies. •'!f:.v/' '»-;' ;hm '(•'i \ -AU'«; : i Ifi I r r i .1/ ' CHAPTER Xn. ■'. ?/ Return to Oregon — Embarkation — Passengers — Horace Holden — Thrilling story — The whaleman — Voy.ige — Arrival in the Columbia River — Disagreeable navi- gation — Yearly meeting of the Missionaries — Appointments — Arrival of Rev. Gtoorge Gang — Reasons for his appointment — Great changes — Mr. Lee — George Abemethy — Powers of the new Superintendent — Special meeting — Voyage — Laymen dismissed — Miscellaneous — Transporting supplies — Another meeting — Oregon Institute — Finances of the Mission brought to a dose — Nura- ber of Missionaries returned — Number remaining in the field. .#' ' On the morning of the 3rd day of April, it was announced by Captain Couch that the Chenamus was again ready for sea, and that the passengers were expec- ted to be on board at nine o'clock. According to the arrangement before Mr. Lee's departure, we had secured our passage, and* were ready to obey the summons to embark, and the following^ evening we had lost sight of the beautiful "Isles of the South," and were dancing northward over the waves of the great Pacific. Among our fellow passengers were Dr. J. L. Babcock and family, who were returning to Oregon, to resume their places in the mission, and Mr. Horace Holden and family, who had resided some time on the island of Kaui, where they had been employed in the manufacture of sugar. He had formerly been employed in the whaling business, and on one of his voyages his vessel was wrecked, and he was cast away, with a few of his companions, on one of the Pelew Islands. Nearly all his fellow sufferers were cruelly mur- dered by the savages before his eyes, and he saved him- self from the same fate only dv submitting without resistance, to all the indignities and cruelties that savage ingenuity could invent to torment a man without killing him. They stripped him of his clothing, and then, with 10* i ! 234 RETURN TO OREGON. i i il|i a kind of pinchers, pulled every hair from his body; they bound him down to the ground, and then in a most cruel manner, tattooed upon his breast and arms, the most hideous and indelible figures, and then pronounced him worthy to live and be their slave. Remaining with them for more than a year, at length, to his inexpressible joy, a vessel visited the island, and he was released from his intolerable wretchedness. Returning to Boston, he published a brief narrative of his shipwreck and captiv- ity, and soon after married, and with his wife sailed for the Sandwich Islands. With an interesting family he now goes to Oregon with the intention of spending the remainder of his life. The third day from Oahu we were boarded by Captain Sawyer, a whaleman, whose vessel had sprung a leak so that it required the constant exertions of his men at pumping^ to keep her afloat. The Captain told us that if the leak increased it was doubtful whether he suc- ceeded in getting her into port, but said he should do his utmost k J accomplish it. He said he had pumped out of her "all of the Pacific Ocean," and when he left be requested us to report him the first opportunity, that if he failed in getting her in, it would be Known what had become of hun. After this nothing especial transpired on our voyage demanding notice; the wind and weather were favorable so that we made fine progress every day, and on the twentieth, after leaving port, we made tlie high lands north of the mouth of the Columbia River. Crossing the bar in safety, in a few hours we came to anchor in the river off Fort George, where we found it exceedingly pleasant again to set our feet on terra firma. Weighing anchor the following day, we ascended the Columbia, but owing to the intricacy of the navigation, we did not gain the mouth of the Wallamette River, until three days after. So slow was our progress in the brig that Dr. Babcock, Mr. Holden and myself requested and obtained the use of the barge, to ascend the river to the Wallamette Falls. Taking our families with us, we labored with the oar until towards evening, when we :!iii w- RETURN TO OREGON. 285 arrived at the foot of the strong rapids, one mile below the falls. Unable to ascend the rapids with the use of our oars, we were obliged to get into the river where the water was up to our waists, and almost as cold as ice, and draw up the boat by main strength. In doing this we were obliged to remain in the water for more than an hour, and, until we became so benumbed that we could scarcely stand upon our feet. However, we gained the head of the rapids in safety, and in a half an hour after, were comfortably seated by the fireside of our good friends, Mr. and Mrs. George Abernethy, of the Oregon mission. The mission had been left by Mr. Lee, under the superintendency of Rev. David Leslie; and as the yearly meeting of the missionaries took place soon after our arrival, it was arranged for me to supply Oregon City and Tuality Plains with preaching, while Mr. Leslie supplied the Wallamette settlement, and Mr. Waller was to preach to the Indians along the Wallamette River, Mr. Parrish to supply the station on Clatsop Plains, and Mr. Perkins still to remain at the Dalls. Four missionaries had returned to the United States, the station at Puget's Sound had been abandoned, and the four appointments mentioned above connected with the mission school and the various secular departments, constituted the Oregon mission, when the Rev. George Gary, the newly appointed superintendent, arrived at Wallamette Falls on the 1st day of June, 1844. Mr. Gary had been appointed to supercede Mr. Lee in the superintendency of the mission in consequence of the dissatisfaction of the Board in New York with the latter, arising from the supposition founded in the statements of missionaries, oral and written, that they " had been misled as to the necessity of so great a number of mis- sionaries in Oregon," and from the to them, " unaccount- able fact that they had not been able to obtain any satisfactory report of the manner in which the large appropriations to the late reinforcement had been dis- bursed." These objections, however valid in the esti- mation of the Board, should not be considered as any M ! ' t ■1' (i i.' 1 ) ill ^ : 286 RETURN TO OREGON. disparagement to the character of Mr. Lee. Changes inconceivably great with respect to the Indians of Ore- gon took place betwixt the time the great reinforcement was called for, and the time of their arrival in the Columbia River. The natives were wasting away during the time, like the dews of the morning, so that Mr. Lee himself, on his return to Oregon with the rein forcement, was not among the least disappointed. Other persons have fallen into the same mistake with respect to the Indians. The Rev. Mr. Parker, in his exploring tour, which took place only the year previous to Mr. Lee*s first return, according to his representa- tions, found the Indians very numerous, and everywhere desiring missionaries to come among them. For in- stance, the Callapooah tribe in the valley of the Walla- mette, where Mr. Lee established his mission, Mr. Parker represents as numbering, in 1836, over eight thousand souls; and in 1840, six hundred were all that could be found in that valley. Similar changes had taken place in other tribes, changes that no human wis- dom could possibly have foreseen. Besides this, at the time the call was made for the great reinforcement, there were but very few whites in Oregon, and the missionaries had been obliged to devote much of their time to manual labor for the purpose of procuring a subsistence, and as no one could have imagined that the country would have been so soon supplied with an indus- trious population of Americans, it was judged essential and important by Mr. Lee and his coadjutors in the work, that the mission should be supplied with a variety of secular men, embracing farmers, mechanics, account- ants, &c., whose labors would relieve the missionaries from temporal pursuits, and enable them to devote their time to the spiritual interests of the people. It is by no means certain that the Missionary Board, with all its foresight, placed in the same position that Mr. Lee and his brethren occupied in Oregon at that time, would not have come to the same conclusion. With regard to the objection against Mr. Lee, arising from his not furnishing the Board with the desirable Changes of Ore- rcement in the away so that he rein i. ake with r, in his previous )resenta- ry where For in- e Walla- on, Mr. er eight ) all that iges had nan wis- s, at the rcement, and the of their curing a that the m indus- essential s in the I variety account- sionaries ote their is by no h alt its Lee and ould not f arising iesirable RETURN TO OREGON. 287 report concerning the disbursements of the large appro- priation, it should be observed that no such charge of delinquency appears against him up to the time of the appointment of the great reinforcement. Every thing with respect to the use of money appears to have been done to the entire satisfaction of the Board, and resolu- tions were passed, and articles published in the Christian Advocate and Journal, and other papers, commendatory of the character and course pursued by our " excellent superintendent;" but when the business of the mission became more complicated, in consequence of the ap- pointment of a large number of men of a variety of pursuits, it was found necessary to appoint a financial agent, or mission steward, whose business it should be to keep an exact account of the manner in which the funds of the mission were expended, and to prepare the annual reports of the disbursements. Mr. George Aber- nethy, of New York, than whom but few men could be found better qualified to bear its responsibilities, was appointed to this important post. I am aware that Mr. Lee, as the superintendent of the mission, was the re- sponsible man, but after the accounts of the mission were committed to the keeping of Mr. Abernethy, it was impossible for Mr. Lee, or any other man, to make out the reports, except Mr. Abernethy himself. To him every thin^ was clear, and the manner in which every dollar of the mission's money was expen^^ed could be accounted for, by a reference to his well kept books. If the Board was disappointed in not receiving a satis- factory report, it is doubtless chargeable upon the unset- tled state of the mission for the first two years after the arrival of the large reinforcement, and the multiplicity of business upon the hands of the superintendent, and the missionary steward. Be this as it may, the Mission- ary Board, at a regular meeting held July 19th, 1843, recommended to tn^ bishop having charge of foreign missions, either the appointment of a special agent to proceed to Oregon and investigate the financial concerns of the mission, or supercede Mr. Lee by a new superin- tendent. The latter course was decided upon by the F- I i' 1 1 1 , i ; |:. . 1 ' |i-| 1 I?'' ' - ! h ri ■K li-^ ^^Hi 1 ' < 1 .1*. . J ^^■t:!' ^^H i ^^^H 1 i:'i-,- ^^^Hl f f -■ ? , 'i' , . )|^H ? I 1 -■ *t iH ii'ii !■' : ' ' .;' III }■, t 1 H'^H ill 1 iv \ vsnn 1 • !jf; I'; r , ii ii' 1-,, * " . Hi K \ • ■■ 'W^y^' iJiS^ iii»i ». » :- ■' J*^"'^ •■'|''r'?^ ( ' 1 ni ■'•■*• • '"• '>- i .' ' '.'■ i' ii ' i!' ' ' :i 1.' * : ill' 1 m ? L it 1 ■ il "^ ' • ; "' ;|; ; 1 " i^i '5'' :^i| ui :l 288 RETURN TO OREGON. bishop, and in the September following it was announced that the Rev. George Gary of the Black River Confer- ence was appointed to the superintendency of the Oregon mission. The instructions to the new superintendent were few, but he was clothed with discretionary power, and had the destiny of missionaries, laymen, property and all, put into his hands. With this unlimited authority Mr. Gary on arriving in Oregon, entered at once upon the delicate and responsible duties which devolved upon him. On the 5th of June, Mr. Gary, myself, and our fami- lies left the fails and proceeded up the Wallamette River in a canoe, for the purpose of attending a meeting of the missionaries, called by the superintendent at the house of Rev. David Leslie, in the upper settlement. The distance to travel was about fifty miles, twenty by water, and thirty by land. We had made arrangements for persons to meet us at the Butte with means of land traveling, and expected to get through in a day, and therefore had not prepared for camping out; but opposed by the strength of the current, and our horses failing to arrive in time, we preferred to make ourselves as com- fortable as possible under the wide spread branches of a majestic fir, to traveling during the night. This was Mr. and Mrs. Gary's first encampment in Oregon. Though we had no bedding to keep our bodies warm dur- ing the night, yet, fortunately for our hunery stomachs, we had left of what we had provided mr the day a a quarter of a large fresh salmon. This I filled with splinters to prevent its falling to pieces while cooking, and then fastening in the forks of a stick, roasted it before the fire. This, with tea and bread, constituted our supper. As the night was not cold we enjoyed a comfortable rest, though our bed was mother earth, and our covering the canopy of heaven, i ^? • On the 6th, arrived at the house of Mr. Leslie, and the following day the missionaries were all collected, with the exception of Mr. Perkins and Mr. Brewer, at the Dalls. The meeting was called for the purpose of RKTURN TO URROON. 230 consultation concerning the various departnnents of the mission, and though commenced at an early hour of the day, such was the interest involved that the investiga- tion continued until daylight the next morning. Some important changes in the mission were agitated, and it was decided to sell the mission property at Clatsop, near the mouth of the Columbia River, consisting of a farm, buildings, and stock. Mr. Gary informed the laymen connected with the mission, that he intended to dismiss them, and proposed to defray their expenses home, if thev wished to return, or pay them an equivalent in such property as the mission possessed, in Oregon. With the exception of one, they preferred to remain in the country, and accordingly mission property was dis- bursed among the different families to the amount of from eight hundred to a thousand dollars each. The course adopted by Mr. Gary in disposing of the laymen belonging to the mission, was as satisfactory to the latter, as it was just and honorable in the superintendent. All the secular members of the mission were thus hon- orably discharged, except Mr. Brewer, the farmer at the Dalls. It was thought the interests of that station required his continuance. The appointments of the missionaries which took place at the yearly meeting before Mr. Gary's arrival, were confirmed. On Sunday, 9th, preached at the mission school-house to upwards of thirty persons, a good congregation for Oregon ; also at the house near the saw-mill. These houses have been erected since the arrival of the large reinforcement. They occupy a beautiful location, and the school-house is by far the most sightly building in Oregon. It is seventy-five by forty-eight feet on the ground, three stories high, and cost eight thousand dollars. On Wednesday, the 12th, left the mission school to return to the falls, leaving my family behind for the time being, intending to return and get them after a few days. As it had been settled that I should remain at the falls for at least one year, I purchased a couple of cows with their calves for the purpose of furnishing my family 240 RBTURN TO OREGON. with the luxury of milk and butter. The distance from the mission school to the falls by land, is fifty miles, and about one-third of the way is forest. Towards evening of the first day, while urcinff my animals along the nar- row zig-zag Indian trail leading through the dark forest which skirts the Molala River, the piteous and well known cry of a panther but a few rods from the path, brought man and beast at once to a stand. Remaining for a moment, <.. A discovering that the beast of prey was disposed to let us pass, I pushed on as fast as possible, desiring to get as far as I could from the haunts of my troublesome neighbor, before dark, for fear my animals might be attacked during the night. Arriving at nine o'clock on a little prairie between the Molala and Har- chauke Rivers, I tied my calves to a small oak tree with a lasso, built a fire in a small hut which one of the set- tlers had built some time before, and abandoned, and rolling myself in my blanket, lay down to sleep. In the morning I found all safe, the panther had kept his dis- tance. Loosing my animals i proceeded on, and at night arrived in safety at the falls. Friday, 14th. Returned to the upper settlement, and preached the following Sabbath again at the mission school. Wednesday, 19th. Having procured a quantity of supplies, consisting of wheat, beef, potatoes, &c., I hired it conveyed to the Bute, and thence took it in a canoe down to the falls. This is the manner of transporting provisions in the country — a very laborious and danger- ous method. > Spent a few days in forwarding my house, which I had purchased in Oregon City soon after we returned from the islands, being quite solicitous to occupy it as soon as possible. Mr. Gary and his wife have decided to reside with us in preference to keeping house. They are still in the upper settlement, where Mr. Gary is arranging business with the lay members preparatory to their dismission. ; , Sabbath, 23d. Preached to a congregation of about forty persons in the Methodist Church at the falls, and BBTUBN TO OIIKGON. 241 proved the truth of the Saviour'i promise^ ** Lo, I am with you." Tuesday, 25th. Returned to the settlement above, to attend a meeting of the Methodist Society at the mission school, the following day. The meeting was called by Mr. Gary, and related to the Oregon Institute. Ever since soon after the arrival of the large rein- forcement in 1840, the people of Oregon had been endeavoring to establish a literary institution bearing the name of the *• Oregon Institute." They had so far succeeded as to secure a very eligible location about three miles from the Oregon Mission school, and build a house which was nearly completed, at an expense of about three thousand dollars. It was now proposed by Mr. Gary to sell the Oregon Mission school house and premises, and disband the school ; and though he had an opportunity to sell it to the Roman Catholics for a high price, he preferred to sell it to the trustees of the Oregon Institute for much less. It was exceedingly desirable on the part of the trustees, to secure this property, as, from the location of the farm, embracing a mile square, it was very Valuable, and the house itself cost the mission not lets than eight thousand dollars. Having an oppor- tunity to sell the first mentioned premises without much sacrifice, they were disposed of, and the Oregon Mission school-house and farm were purchased at an expense of four thousand dollars, and are hereafter to be known as the Oregon Institute. For the promotion of the interests of the church, and for the welfare of this rising country, a more judicious appropriation of the property of the former mission school could not have been made. By selling it to the Catholics, Mr. Gary could have taken more money for it, but it would have been converted into a nunnery. Every Protestant will say, " Rather give it all away, than desecrate it to so impious a pur- pose." The institution stands upon an elevated portion of a beautiful plain, surrounded with the most delightful scenery, and at a point which, at some future day, is destined to be one of considerable importance. ■;5f ^ 'V/ :ilj 111'; I m ii 'if. % m '.'Mi: 1:111* 242 RETURN TO OREGON. The building is beautifully proportioned, beinff seventy- five feet long and forty-eight wide, including the wings, and three stories high. When finished it will not only present a fine appearance without, but will be comrpo- dlous, and well adapted to the purposes intended to be accomplished within. It is already so far advanced that a school is now in successful operation, under the tuition of one well qualified to sustain its interests. Already it numbers more students than did either the Cazenovia Seminary or the Willbraham Acadamy, at their com- mencement, and who can tell but that it may equal, if not exceed both those institutions in importance, as well as usefulness. Though I cannot say that it is the only hope of Oregon, for whether it lives or dies, Oregon will yet be redeemed from the remains of Paganism and the gloom of Papal darkness by which she is enshrouded; but the sentiment forces itself on the mind that the sub- ject of the Oregon Institute is vital to the interests of the Methodist Episcopal church in this country. If it lives, it will be a luminary in the moral heavens of Oregon, shedding abroad the light of knowledge after its founders shall have ceased to live. But if It dies, our sun is set, and it is impossible to tell what will succeed. Perhaps a long and cheerless night of Papal darkness, but more probably, others, more worthy of the honor than ourselves, will come forth to mould the moral mass according to their own liking, and give direction to the literature of Oregon. .'- After the transfer of the premises of the Oregon Mission School to the trustees of the Oregon Institute, all the remaining financial departments connected with the mission, were disposed of principally to those lay- men who had been dismissed from the mission, and the property thus sold, amounted to upwards of twenty-six thousand dollars. The finances of the Oregon Mission were thus summarily brought to a close, and the mission was not only relieved of a ponderous load, but assumed a decidedly spiritual character. Previous to the arrival of Mr. Gary, four of the preachers, besides Mr. Jason Lee, namely : W. W. Kone, RETURN TO OREGON. 243 J. H Frost, J. P. Richmond, and Daniel Lee, had re- turned to the United States ; consequently, after the dismission of the laymen, there remained connected with the mission five preachers, namely: Greorge Gary, the superintendent, David Leslie, A. F. Waller, H. ft. W. Perkins and G. Hines. H. R. W. Perkins in the latter part of the summer of 1844 also returned to the United States, leaving but few regular preachers in the country. These, disencumbered from all financial embarrass- ments, addressed themselves to their work in the various portions of the country assigned them, A. F. Waller filling the place made vacant by the departure of Mr. Perkins at the Dalls, David Leslie in the upper part of the Wallamette settlement, and G. Gary and G. Hines at the Wallamette Falls and Tuality Plams. The Dalls was the only Indian Mission now sustained, and both here and among the white settlements, it was necessary for the missionary constantly to expose himself to fatigue and dangers in hunting up the people to give them the word of life. Fording, and swimming rivers, sleeping on the ground and in the rain, and going without food, were no uncommon incidents in the life of the Oregon missionary. ■f... , *..;. f ■ y>t 'yyyi ■ '^.ir • , ■ -■■■*.■: ■<■.'■ ». * i - I 4 ' - ly .-. ■-■ >.KiX' il \\' ■