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signifie "A SUIVRE". le symbols V signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc.. peuvent dtre fiimAs A des taux de reduction diffArents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul cliche, il est filmA A partir de Tangle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite. et de haut en bas. en prenant le nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 Jr THE CHILCAT COUNTRY AT. ARK A AND BRITISH COLUMBIA To aocoiniMiiiy the Pa))er l>y Lieut. H. W. Seton-Karr, F.B.G.S. lO ScaW- of Miles so Ul to , MT — ^--Jl;- Ueighta in feet Author'H route . j I L_ 137' no 40 so' :o 10' 130' F Sbarbaxi I)*l Puh* fior ths Hveemdittfi* of tA« Jioj-al titogniftfuci ■, *,\ « .Icl.u«t'i». Ediirhui^. fc:i.T..l.'; iM A-oeetdittfi* of the ttojtti tirff^tf>/ii^tl .W^f-ty IfHH PROCEEDINGS /> or THB EOYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY AND MONTHLY KECORD OF GEOGRAPHY. Exj^omtioi^n Alaslca and North-west British Columbia, By H. W. Seton-Kabr. CRead ot the EveniDg Meoting, December 8tb, 1890.) Map, p. 130. * Since I had the honour of addressing this Society on our explorations of the Saint Elias glaciers in 1886, 1 have visited many countries enjoying more genial climates, but returned with renewed zest and freshness this summer to Alaska, with the aim of exploring an unknown portion of this sub-Arctic region and a new pass across the mountains of British Columbia, adjacent to the scene of my previous adventures with the New York Times expedition of that year. Mount St. Elias stands isolated, but behind it I saw a galaxy of snow-peaks, a sea of glittering glaciers, a collection of huge pinnacles clothed from head to foot in ice and snow, amongst which I think it doubtful if anyone will ever penetrate for any long distance, owing to the difficulties of transport. lu 1888 four members of the English Alpine Club— Messrs. E. H. and H. W. Topham, G. Broke, and W. Williams- ascended to a height of 11,000 feet on the south side of St. Elias, but failed to reach the summit. I wished this year to ascertain how far this Canadian Switzerland extended inland, and whether there was a land route to Yakutat Bay, as the Indians bad told us there was. How far inland these ranges and glaciers extend yet remains to be discovered, and I will mention later on some reasons why the country in rear of those ranges should prove to be exceptionally remarkable. This entirely unknown country measures about 400 miles in length and 200 miles in breadth, and the larger part is situated iu British territory. I penetrated but a comparatively short distance into its outer rim, the difficulty, besides the natural obstacles met with, being the extortionate demands of the Indians — and their services are indispensable as pack-carriers. Throughout this expedition we bore the British ensign, a habit which I recommend to explorers. Besides its moral effect, both upon our- No. IL-Fkb. 1891.] 9 27817 Pacific N. V. History Dept. PROV!NniA._ L 'JF?ARY VJCTOHIA, D. C. «". 68 EXPLORATIONS IN ALASKA AND selves and upon tbo natives, its bright coloura are oheerful in gloomy forests, or on the snow. The luxurious and pleasurahlo manner in which this expedition was commenced by a trip north-westwards of nearly a thousand miles amidst an archipelago of ihlands, sorvod only to throw into Hharp relief the hard work and painful methods of travel necessary in order to over- come the obstacles to our advance presented by such a difficult and almost impenetrable country — tlio rapidity of the ice-cold rivers, the steepness of the damp mountains, the densoness of the forest and brush, and tho necessity of looking to the Indians for help — help which is never withheld so long as dollars aro forthcoming. So long as there are Indians, travel in these difficult regions of North-western America will be a mere question of money, for with plenty of Indians travel there is easy. Let me endeavour, in a few condensed sentences, to give you a clear idea of tho outward appearance of this portion of the Pacific coast — the Pacific seaboard of the Canadian Dominion. Its geographical charac- teristics are very marked. Commencing from the south, California, Oregon, and Washington present a plain coast-lino to the ocean, with scarcely any good sheltered harbour. This is tho case as far north as Capo Flattery, or the Straits of Juan do Fuca, where British territory commences. This is tho beginning of that remarkable network of fringing islands which has its counterpart on the coast of Norway and the west coast of South America. This Inland Passage, as I shall call it, continues northwards past British territory (the Canadian province of British Columbia), and in- cludes tho southern arm of Alaska, which is here a narrow strip of coas' sheltered by the seaward islands. At Cape Spencer, tho southern projection seawards of tho St. EHas Alps, the Inland Passage suddenly comes to an end, and tho coast becomes more stern and shelterless than ever; there is only one harbour for vessels, and only about six places where small boats can land. So much for the general shape and character of tho coast-line between the thirtieth and sixtieth parallels of latitude. The difi'erences of climate in different places aro very great, and admit of broad distinctions as regards the mainland of British Columbia. A dry climate, where water is precious and irrigation necessary to agri- culture, exists on the landward, eastward, or leeward side of tho first main range of mountains — the Cascades ; and in a less marked degieo this dry zone also exists in a strip on the leeward side of the main range of the Eocky Mountains and on the leeward side of all tho ranges. But on tho islands, and along a narrow belt of the mainland facing them, there is too much water ; the winters are mild and rainy, and more rain than scorns necessary falls in summer. Consequently, vegetation on the coast is very dense: the fir and t I NORTH-WEST UIUTISH COLUMBIA. 67 ful in gloomy expedition was bousand inilcB to Hharp roliof order to over- a Jiffloult and !old rivers, the roHt and brush, -help which is >ng as there are I America will travel there is ive you a clear cifio coast — the aphical charac- uth, California, ;he ocean, with as far north as iritish territory ble network of of Norway and orthwards past ambia), and in- w strip of coas'' of the St. Elias and tho coast Illy one harbour ;an land, ist-line between v^ery great, and :itish Columbia, icessary to agri- lide of the first marked degico de of the main side of all tho )f the mainland mild and rainy, Be: the fir and cedar reach to a great size, tlio growth of ferns, plants, and bushes is rich and luxuriant, intorsporsoil with thicl with varieties nro about four Wo only know make prcpara- i the Columbia ty ; and on each to hundreds of osido quantities by tho Indians ho coast tribes. lear the mouths for the purpose. I river itself as summer on the 30 08 usual, and m and cannery I myriads ; moro eat river boiled the end of the !e literally black agers, and even lear the Skeena 1 other canneries •iver. Tho fish I soldered down, gain, and finally tion the halibut itic waters. Tho kown that these banks; besides md the ports for boiled down to ; the coast, as a , furnishes oil to ihoals at certain ary inlets of the t Tho number of islands and rooks make tho Inland PaHsago diffloalt of navigation. I mot a man trading on tho Skeona river who had turned up a wrong inlet or passage near I3ai ';b Isliind, and sailed northwards for three days, till ho roacliod the head of this arm of the sou, before diH- covering his error, and was obliged to sail back some hundreds of miloo. I asked him whether the Indians were dying off. lie answered, " T'^, nicely." Then again tho tides are most complicated. In some inlets there is but one tide a day for some months in the year, sometimes no tido nud sometimes throe. In other inlets the tides seem to follow no rule at f 1 tho whirls and rips arc r ')"* dingerous in certain places to small bouts, while tho velocity reaches 12 knot« an hour in narrow parts. Is it any wonder that tho Cana i vns have given up any attempt at a tide-table in deppair ' Finally, to close these introductory remarks, I will endeavour to give an idea of tho scenery and surroundings passed through as I travelled north by one of tho periodical steamers which keep up the inoreaHing communications between tho now-world ports and nowly- discoverod harbours in Piiget Sound and on Vancouver Inland (such as Tacoma and Victoria) on the one hand, and tho new settlements along the coast, the old Russian fortress of Sitka, and other points as far north 06 Chilcat on the other hand. Tho distance from San Francisco and return is about four thousand miles, and the time occupied varies from twenty to thirty days, and from Pugot Sound from twelve to twenty-two days. Commencing at tho south part of tho Inland Passage, tho first inlet is Puget Sound, neorly two hundred miles long, and 1600 milos in circumference, with numerous islands all thickly wooded. On a oloudleso day snow-mountains can be seen glittering in every direction — some on Vancouver Island, some on the mainland to the eastward, others in the Olympic Bango. In April I left Victoria for my fourth journey up tho coast. A lino of railway connects Victoria with the coalfields. Thence in tho steamer I proceeded westward between Vancouver Island and tho mainland, through tho wide channel named Straits of Georgia. On tho side towards tho mainland are two deep inlets — Bute Inlet, which I traversed by canoe with Indians in 1887, which is about thirty miles long; and with mountains over eight thousand feet high, rising sheer iroia tho water, and Jervis Inlet. These are not seen from the straits. It is necessary to penetrate the narrow passages between the groups of islands before they become visible. All the rocks I examined in Bute Inlet wore granite. On Vancouver Island at this point the mountains towards the centre arc heavily timbered, generally obsotired by cloud, and over five thousand feet in altitude. Farther to the west there are peaks on ithe island which rise to over seven thousand feet. Tho way now lies through Discovery Passage, passing Cape Mudgo -r" ^. 70 EXPLORATIONS IN ALASKA AND (named from one of Vancouver's ofBcers), skirting Yaldes and Thurlow Islands, and threading Johnstone Straits, where a spur of the mainland thrusts itself out amidst the other islands, and comes into close proximity to Vancouver Island. Entering Queen Charlotte Sound, and passing close to an Indian village and a cannery, we strike away from Vancouver Island, along the northern shore of which we have been coasting for about two hundred and ilfty miles. Between the mainland and the open Etea in Queen Charlotte Sound there is nothing but the Sea Otter Islands, but the steamer soon enters more intricate and winding channels. At one point we turn oflF through the narrow Gunboat Passage — for the broad inviting channel ahead only leads inland — and follow an exceedingly long and narrow fiord between Princess Koyal Island and the mainland, more like a river than an arm of the sea, scooped out no doubt partly by the action of glaciers, where is found some of the grandest scenery to be seen on this particular route — composed chiefly of waterfalls, cliffs, trees, and high mountains on the right hand and on the loft. On emerging we immediately enter Grenville Channel, remarkable as being nearly forty nautical miles in length, in some places not more than a mile wide, yet almost perfectly straight, and shut in by high mountains like walls on either side. We emerge through Arthur Pass and catch sight of the first sign of human life seen for many leagues (unless it has been some Indian canoe), in the shape of a salmon-cannery built on piles above low-water mark, this being the vicinity of the Skeena river. Twenty miles farther, in Chatham Sound, the old Duncan Mission of Metlakatla is seen, with a row of substantial houses, and fifteen miles farther the Hudson Bay Company's Fort Simison. We soon cross the mouth of Portland Inlet, which leads to Naas river and the International boundary (which reaches the sea at the head of Portland Canal — a fiord penetrating the mainland for a distance of about 100 miles) ; this is the commence- ment of Alaska, here a mere narrow strip that shuts off the whole of North British Columbia from the sea. If cousin Jonathan would make this narrow strip over to British Columbia, I think we might reasonably allow him in exchange the privilege of the exclusive rights of the seal-fisheries in Behring Sea. This would also save the expense of marking the frontier, which is not yet delimitated. We might even throw in Mount Saint Elias, about which there was so much uncertainty as to its exact position, and whether it lay in American territory or no, that an expedition of United States Government Surveyors, Messrs. Kerr and Russell (whom I had the pleasure of meeting on my return at Sitka) was this summer sent to locate it precisely, being conveyed to Behring Bay, or Dis- enchantment Bay, in a man-of-war. They are of opinion that St. Elias is in the Union, but, as though to console us for the loss, it is found not to be so high as the United States Coast Survey made it out to be. I ' I! NORTH-WEST BRITISH COLUMBIA. 71 8 and Thurlow f the mainland close proximity id, and passing from Vancouver een coasting for inland and tho li the Sea Otter and winding arrow Gunboat ds inland — and Princess Royal arm of the sea, where is found ticnlar route — untains on the nediately enter autical miles in Imost perfectly her side, f the first sign en some Indian bove low-water Twenty miles P Metlakatla is iles farther the i the mouth of I ional boundary ord penetrating the commence- )ff the whole of aver to British exchange the 1 Behring Sea. jr, which is not it EHas, about ; position, and expedition of RusaoU (whom 8 this summer ; Bay, or Dis- i that St. Elias it is found not out to be. I must refer again to this expedition later on. Seventy miles farther, passing through Tongaas Narrows, brings one to a settlement on Revil- lagigedo Island : as far again, through Clarence Straits, and then between Zarembo and Etolin Islands, brings one to the American settlement of Fort Wrangell. There is practically no agriculture here, nor anywhere else in Alaska, nor do I think there ever will be. Its wealth lies in other things, which I have indicated in referring to British Columbia. Here I found some small stem-wheel steamers used for the ascent of the Stikeen river, of which the month is distant about fifteen miles to the northward. It is navigable to Telegraph Creek, in British territory, a distance of 126 miles. Above this is the "Great Canon," which extends for many miles, quite impassable for boats, bat traversed by the miners in winter on the ice. From Telegraph Creek a pack trail 62]^ miles long, constructed by the Canadian Government, leads to the Cassiar mining district. There are some horses employed here as pack-animals. They can only go backwards and forwards firom Telegraph Creek to Dease Lake, where the trail ends. In 1887 Dr. Dawson reached the Yukon by this route. He affirms the probability of a possible connection of the Stikeen and Mackenzie by a railway at some future date. The headwaters of the Stikeen are yet unknown, they are in British Columbia, in a country said to be very mountainous. There are a number of remarkable glaciers in tho Stikeen valley, the foor largest of which are on the west side, but in size they bear no comparison with those on the coast near Mount St. Elias. Near one known as Great Glacier, there is a copious hot spring. Another is known as Flood Glacier. Occasionally there comes a great rush of water from it, so large as to raise the river to half-flood level for a few hours. A similar phenomenon txused us much pei-plexity on the Yahtsetah river near Mount St. Elias After leaving Fort Wiingell, we emerge into Sumner Strait, and turning abruptly to the if'ht, steam cautiously through Wrangell Narrows which has been car constructed, [vantage, and I 8 is more than being the most mes. In this I d it. Part of part in British sway of savage- by the red-man. 'aiya Pass to the e tribe who had ious demands as ia to the Chilcat n up to the very ne to go by. I ing aggregation r village, named landward side, feeling of those y before I corn- Before I could engage any of them to accompany me they required to be convinced that I was no trader by an inspection of my baggage ; to satisfy themselves that I had no materials for barter with the Tagish or Stick Indians, as those who inhabit the interior are named. Nothing was stolen. I have always found the red man was no pilferer, however fond he may be of duplicity and deception in small matters. When the natives are all gone, those interior regions which are only attainable on foot with pack-carriers or packers will become more diflScult of access, because now these Indians (broken as they are by disease) can yet carry heavier packs than a white man. They can travel farther on foot and endure greater hardships. They do not require so much in the shape of clothes and bedding. Their dried salmon, which they carry as food, weighs little, and tbey are satisfied with that. They are able moreover to supplement this with many kinds of roots, herbs and fruits which are eatable. I was endeavouring to learn from the Indians some of these useful secrets, for I have not yet met a white man who had much practical knowledge of these things. The natives are steadily and surely disappearing in many localities along the coast, owing to causes that I will allude to presently. But now, while the Indian Rtill exists, I would personally undertake, with suflScient funds, to reach any portion of north-west America, or to cross the continent from any one point to any other point. Formerly the different tribes were afraid to quit their tribal territory, but now Indians can be found willing to accompany the white man through regions which are as strange and unknown to them as to him. Some, for instance, have accompanied minors as far as the mouth of the Yukon, and returned home by way of San Francisco. I have stated that, in some districts at least, if not in all, the Indians are decreasing in number. This is the case as regards the once powerful Chilcat tribe, with whom I had to deal. Their decrease is partly owing to various epidemics and disorders, but greatly (and I fear chiefly) at Chilcat due to the importation of large quantities of whiskej'. I represented what I had seen to the Governor of Alaska. The laws dealing with the subject are severe enough, and if they wore even partially enforced the evil would be at least mitigated. I am glad to Bay things are not so bad in British territory along this coast, but at Chilcat they are as bad as the}' can be. Indians sometimes came to my camp suffering from the effects of impure spirit — which can be obtained in any quantity in tlie neighbour- hood of certain salmon-canneries that I could name — apparently merely for the sake of the moral comfort and support they seemed to obtain from the presence of white r- i who had no whisky in their possession, and could not supply them v . ^h what to theui is poisoii. These Indians rate their services at a very high figure. So long as 'is packers ; one axe and paddle. bye-days, when one the loneliest iblo grouse, an\ EXPLORATIONS IN ALASKA AND north, avalanches wero falling almoet inccBsantly with a sound like distant artillery ; but the masses of rolling snow, when seen, looked very small, and seemed to slip down slowly when compared with the great volume of sound they produced. They seemed to keep to well-defined tracks, and sometimes assumed the appearance of white waterfalls, at other times of masses of froth or dazzling foam surging and boiling up together. The Indians are fond of burying their deed in impressive spots, or amidst grand scenery, or near some freak of nature ; as though in some natural mausoleum. For instance, in Vancouver Island and British Columbia I saw their remains in boxes on the summits of the loftiest cedars and firs ; in Chugak, or Prince William Sound, their mummies are deposited high up on the face of beetling cliffs. Here on the mountain, about 2000 feet above the village, under a noticeable bluff, in a cavern, I accidentally came on a quantity of carved coffins partly destroyed by animals, and so old that they crumbled at the touch. In the village of Klokwan there are many wooden mausolea, chiefly of Bhamans, which are almost us large as some of the houses amongst which they are situated. I experienced no opposition from the chief, a stout hale-looking Indian named Kintaghkoosh. He owns several large huts, in front of which are a flagpole and two old Russian cannon, and has a largo amount of blankets and other kinds of wealth stored away in boxes of all shapes and sizes. Here some of my surplus supplies were deposited in safety. The number of inhabitants at Klokwan, according to the last report, is about four hundred. There is no mission now nearer than Juneau, but some years ago a Protestant mission was established on the promon- tory which divides the Chilcoot and Chilcat inlets, which was abandoned owing to the very unpleasant conduct of the Indiana. The Eoman Catholic priests have had much success in securing the attachment of the Indians, especially in British Columbia, in the interior beyond the belt of the coast rains, whore the climate is drier and they possess cattle and horses, and are altogether happier and better off. Northwards from California along the whole coast, as far as Behring Straits, no missionary to the Indians has had any marked degree of success except Mr. Duncan, and that is duo to his personal qualifications. Now he has crossed into American territory and his Indians have followed him, and upon one of the largo islaiiJs they have founded a new village. From Klokwan I followed the Chilcat river upwards to its junction with a large stream, which I named the Wellesley river. I found after- wards that it had an Indian name — Klaheena. Up to this point we had very severe work towing and poling against the velocity of the current. The low temperature of the water in the morning made the continued wading quite painful — 37° Fahr. It was necessary at starting in the morning to see that the canoe lay NORTH-WEST BRITISH COLUMBIA. 77 h a sound like sen, looked very with the great to well-defined e waterfalls, at and boiling up ressive spots, or though in some ad and British 8 of the loftiest their mummies Here on the ticeable bluff, in d coffins partly the touch. In 3olea, chiefly of amongst which ut hale-looking huts, in front of 3 a large amount xes of all shapes sited in safety. ) the last report, er than Juneau, on the promon- i was abandoned I in securing the a, in the interior s drier and they better off. 9 far as Behring irked degree of il qualifications. Ds have followed d a new village. 3 to its junction I found after- lis point we had ' of the cuiTent. [e the continued at the canoe lay perfectly level in the water by properly arranging upon the bottom the oil-canvas sacks containing our supplies of food; the tow-ropo had next to be attached to one of the cross-pieces, at a distance from the prow of one-third the total length ; after which I seated myself in the stem with a paddle as steerer, while the others towed. At other times I took turns at the tow-rope, while two of the men who were expert at poling against the stream, remained in the canoe for that purpose. At some points where I measured the speed of the stream it reached nine miles per hour, and our progress against it was very slow and exhausting. Sometimes we had to cross where the water was too deep for the pole to reach the bottom, and while paddling over we would be swept downstream half a mile. If the bow or stern were the lowest in the water, that portion grounded first, and the other end would be whirled round by the force of the current. Nor was it easy to gather up the rope and leap out upon a shelving bank of loose pebbles, past which, the craft was being whirled with arrow-like rapidity, and then to hold on. Under such circumstances bungling would be followed by a cold bath at a temperatttrtrpcfhaps of 37°. I foifnd roughly that these rivers increased in swiftness and volume from noon to midnight owing to the melting snow, especially on warm sunny days. The temperature also increased about six degrees towards evening, The light rains we experienced seemed to have no effect in raising their level. After a week of rainy weather I found the Elaheena a foot lower, but a few days of warm sun caused a rapid rise, distinct from the daily fluctuations in level. Many of the valleys showed signs of having been excavated and worn by glacial forces. Every day a strong breeze sprang up about noon, and blew steadily till evening up the valleys, and in a contrary direction at night. This was chiefly observed during fine clear weather. Similarly on the salt water inlets along the coast a breeze generally blows inland from the sea on fine days, but in winter it prevails in the contrary direction. I observ'ed by the motion of the clouds that this was often independent of the direction of the upper air-currents. It is a curious fact on the Pacific Coast of Alaska, as I have frequently observed, that a west wind brings fine weather, and an east wind brings rain, with'^ut reference to local winds. The Chilcat canoes are made of cotton-wood, and are remarkably tough and strong. Some three or four days I remained camped in the same place below the pass, which we employed in felling a largo cotton- wood tree and hollowing it into a very respectable canoe, using for the purpose three axes and an adze, and subsequently filling it with water, into which we dropped heated stones, rendering it so pliable that we were able to stretch it to a convenient breadth. The largest of the Chilcat canoes, however, measuring thirty feet in length, are made of cedar, and come from British Columbia, usually from the Queen Charlotte Islands. 1/ 78 EXPLORATIONS IK ALASKA AND A risk to which tho canoes were continually eipoBed was that of contact with blocks of ice floating down with the current, which wore difiSoult to BOO, especially round bonds, or in the foam and waves of rapids. We also had to walk upon the crust of ice while towing, bordering the stream like white walls, which the water had so under- mined that pieces fell off with an appalling splash like small bergs, but always clear of tho canoe. We obtained some fine fish, salmon-trout — not salmon, for the latter had not yet aiTived — caught by striking hither and thither at random in the turbid water with a long hook. Another difficulty, and a peculiarity of these Alaskan rivers, is tho enormously wide beds in which they flow, strewn with gnarled and jagged snags, and roots firmly embedded in the gravel, which, when hidden, form a serious danger, which we could not escape, for one of my canoes and raft were capsized from this cau«;e, but most of the contents were firmly lashed, and the occupants got safe to shore with a complete ducking. One craft was abandoned, the other grounded on a shallow, and was recovered. These accidents give an idea of the nature of Alaskan and British Columbian rivers on this coast. Though the Chilcat natives are accustomed to their native rivers, I found that on their trading journeys into the interior they left their canoes, or only took them a short distance, preferring to travel on foot with their baggage tied upon their backs, though the trail was of the very roughest kind, and they were constantly forced to wade from one side of tho stream to the other by the encroaching olififs. I observed them in crossing usually hold on to a long tree or pole in parties of five or six, the strongest man being up-stream to break the force of the water, a plan which we afterwards followed with advantage when we had to cross the Klaheena. The Indians also preferred to wade in place of forcing their way through the bush, which was very dense, when there was any choice in the matter. In choosing a place to ford we bore in mind that where the river was swiftest and broadest there it was also shallowest, and that by carrying a hea^'y stone, when we had no packs on our backs, wo were less likely to be swept off our legs. On our progress we greatly improved the Indian trail by the use of the axe. It was very faint, and frequently disappeared altogether. In order to obtain a panoramic view of the country, I made a partial ascent of several high mountains, to which I gave names. I found the brush thickest near the base, and also immediately below the snow-line, caused perhaps by the increased dampness of those portions; in the central portions, along a zone ranging from 1000 to 3000 feet in breadth, it was not so tedious to penetrate, excepting on account of fallen trees of large dimensions, and that unpleasant plant, growing to the height of NORTH-WEST BRITISH COLUMBIA. 79 sed was that of ent, which were tn and waves of while towing, * had so under- small bergs, but for the latter her at random in an rivers, is the ith gnarled and el, which, when Je, for one of nij' ut most of the fe to shore with ler grounded on can and British native rivers, I ' they loft tbeir io travel on foot trail was of the wade from one iffs. I observed in parties of five the force of the mtage when wo rcing their way as any choice in lind that where shallowest, and )n our backs, wo lil by the use of altogether. 1 made a partial 38. I found the tv the snow-line, )ortion8; in the feet in breadth, ; of fallen trees to the height of a man's chest, known as the devil's club, and covered with fine looso barbed prickles. Where the stream united shallowness to great velocity, I found it the best plan to tow with one rope fap^enod to the bows of the canoe and another attached to the stern, which enabled us to direct its course without the necessity of anyone remaining in it. I found that the starved-looking Indian dogs, who are in the habit of greatly resenting the presence of the white man, were made to carry loads of 25 lb. in saddle-bags when their owners made a journey ; little children, too, of eight and nine carried packs proportioned to their strength. We first enjoyed ten days of perfectly fine cloudless weather, a very unusual thing for this coast. This was followed by nine days of clouds and rain, which caused the river to fall almost as much as the warm weather had caused it to rise from the melting of the snows. But by this lime wo had almost got beyond the region of the coast rains, and felt the sheltering influence of the great snowy range, including Mounts Fairweather, Crillon, La Perouse, and Saint Elias, which lay between us and the Pacific, and the amount that fell was small, though the weather continued dark and gloomy. On May 15th, while I was seated writing beneath an arrangement of fir boughs to keep off the rain, there came a slight earthquake shock, and the structure descended gracefully and deliberately upon me. From beneath the ruins I observed a little Indian boy, who was hoping to pick up any trifles we might throw away, help himself from our supper. If this was not quite in accordance with my previous estimate of the Indian character, it must be remembered that this was only a child, and I have reason to believe that ho was desperately hungrj'. However, soon after the Indians killed a fine black bear, and some days later Michael Ealamo, whom I mentioned as being half Kanaka, half Kwagiutl by descent, killed a black and also a very large brown bear; and Hammond killed a black and a cinnamon bear. We had previously seen numbers of bears, and on one occasion I saw five at the same moment. In fact, I characterise the White Mountains, as well as this entire district, as the greatest bear country I have yet visited. We found no traces of gold in paying quantities, but a great variety of blocks of variously coloured marbles, of which some of the moraines were entirely composed. North of the Eraser the only rivers which boast of any length are the Skeena, the Stikeen, and the Naas. All the others are short and rapid. So we found that the Elaheena as well as the other branches of the Chilcat soon became mere mountain torrents, and we had to abandon canoe-travel and pack our food upon our backs. We had previously manufactured two sledges of different sizes and f I 80 EXPLORATIONS IN ALASKA AND wherever there was any snow remaining wo were able to drag our things along instead of carrying them. Wo commenced to do this on May 7th, and used them at intervals for tho next seven days as far as Camp 0, after which the snow had so far melted as to make oven tho labour of constant pack-carrying preferable to that of conveying the sledges from one vanishing snow-patch to another. I thus realised that it was easier to travel in this country in winter than in summer. The snow was quite hard, and although I had pro- vided snow-shoes for tho party, they were never required, as they would have been in winter-timo. High up, however, near the mountain summits, I found the snow soft. A much greater load can be dragged in a light sled over tho snow than can bo carried on the back. On May 8th I explored tho ground ahead of us for a distance of five miles, following an exceedingly faint Indian trail through the forests, and then, guided by the sun, mado my way back to tho river through the densest brush and thickets of devil's-club thorns, with long elastic stems covered with barbs, which had to be pushed aside. I had dismissed the Indian canoe as soon as we were able to use the sledges. But now I found the brush so thick and tho torrent so dangerous to wade, and the snow patches so far apart, that I was obliged to return in person on foot to Klokwan Indian village to hire a canoe once more, trusting to meet with no streams which we should not be able to ford or swim, and that the natives would ferry us over when we appeared opposite Elokwan without blackmailing us. The distance we had previously ascended by canoe I now retraced by land, guided by the sun and by the mountain tops, pushing by main force through the bushes, plunging into cold streams, crossing others by means of fallen trees, or threading our way through a network of marshes. On arrival late in the evening opposite Klokwan, I hailed some dusky figures in hopes of finding a Charon, expecting they would demand ten, fifteen, twenty dollars for fetching us. In anticipation of this I carried an air-cushion, with the help of which I should have swum the river. To my agreeable surprise, an Indian immediately poled his canoe up- stream, and then quickly paddled across and downward towards us. That no advantage was taken of our distress I found to he duo to the presence of the American expedition, which had just arrived, and with whom I was already acquainted. I purchased a canoe after some difficulty for fifteen dollars, and next day, with a fresh supply of food, we reached Point Christopher, as I had named the bluff on which our camp was placed, after twelve hours of difficult and laborious poling and towing against the current. Meanwhile, my other two men had been cutting a good trail along the bank, both being very expert axemen. Next day some Indians came into camp, having crossed tho Pass from the Altsehk river, carrying heavy packs. One of the women was NORTH-WEST BRITISH COLUMBIA. 81 drag our things this on May 7th, far as Camp 9, ;ii the labour of tlie ulodgoa from ountry in winter ough I had pro- quired, as they ear the mountain can be dragged back. dintance of five )ugh the forests, 10 river through ivith long elastic d. d ablo to use the i tho torrent so )art, that I was village to hire a oh we should not rry us over when IS. The distance by land, guided lin force through lers by means of f marshes, lailed some dusky Duld demand ten, I of this I carried swum the river, ed his canoe up- 1 towards us. md to be due to just arrived, and canoe after some b sapply of food, ufif on which our orious poling and good trail along crossed the Pass r the women was a Yakutat. They pointed out to mo tho position of tho pass, and ex- plained that other Indians had remained a short distance up tho valley, in order to manufacture some ootton-wood canoes. They stated that it took seven days to reach Dry Bay, and that there were canoes upon tho Altsekh, which shot down to salt water with great velocity. This agrees with tho account of Glave and Dalton. We had made a bridge over a branch of the Wellesley by felling a tall tree and floating one end across. In the morning, when tho river was always lowest, tho trunk was a foot abovo the surface of the stream, which was at that point seven feet deep. Across this the Indians stepped without tho slightest hesitation with their burdens, turning both feet towardn tho same side in balancing themselves, not outwards. Others turn them inwards. On May 12th I ascended to a height of about 4000 feet on the sides of JUounjHjI^lave, in order to obtain a view of the surrounding mountains. The softness of the snow interfered with our ascending higher. I was accompanied by Miiihasl Ealamo, and hastened to rcoross the river before noon on account of tho daily flood from tho glaciers. Above tho timber- line wo sank waist-deep in the snow between the patches of willow- brush. On the cast lay the main branch of the Chilcat river, less tur- bulent than the Wellesley, and divided into many channels, while in the distance, on the south, rose the summita of the great snow range of the coast. The daily temperature was increasing. On May 2nd at sunset, the thermometer marked 40° F., a week later at the same hour 60° F. On the 18th we struggled all day against the stream, towing with one rope, then with two. A cotton-wood tree I measured girthed thirteen feet. The shallow water was full of young salmon about an inch in length, playing amongst the carcases of their dead ancestors. In the autumn millions of salmon are left stranded in the shallows and on tho sand- banks where they die ; these were now in various stages of decomposition, which made one wish for something less antiquated. Many had been half eaten by bears. The velocity of the current was here nine and a half miles per hour. Next day my men hunted and wounded a she- bear on tho side of a mountain I named Mount Shanz, and the following day I again ascended to a height of 5000 feet on Mount Glave in search of fresh meat. Wo were delayed by bad weather for some days. On May 22nd, I made an exploratory trip ahead of the expedition with my ha' f-breed. The weather was still damp, and doubtless on the coast it was raining much more heJvvily than here, but wo had now eaten down the provisions to such a point that we could manage to carry most of what remained together with blankets, axes, and other necessaries by making double journeys. On tho 23rd I started with one man to select a camping place. We carried about fifty pounds each. I preferred tho bed of tlie river, frequently wading. My comjDanion kept mostly en the bank, No. ll.—Fsii. 1891.] o r 82 EXPLORATIONS IN ALASKA AND 0^' ^ ' where I could trace his progreoa by the loud oraokling of the branohoB OS ho forced hia way along. For more than a mile wo were obliged to creep along the edge of the Htroam, under steep clay banlcH, from which pieces wore continually dropping. Then we emerged into a district where the ImihIich grew more thinly. I saw large blocks of pure white marble scottored about, some of largo dimensiona, mixed witli marble of various colours, finally camping neor Marble Glacier. On the 26th I ascended alone as far an snowline on one of the mountains at the foot of the KlaheenaAltsehk Pass, and obtained a view of some distant ranges entirely covered with anow, and without any rock showing, and bare of timber. The boscs were not visible. About five miles above my tenth camp the valley divides, the left or western branch leailing to tho poBS. At thia point tlio country ia more open and progi of^a easier. I counted eight glaciers in valleys opening into tho Wellesley or Elahcenu on the right bank, but none on the left. The distance from our camp to tho mouth of the Chilcat river was about 60 miles. A few days later a white man, to my stirpriao, who had rccroRsed the pass alone, auddcnly arrived in my camp. Ho said hib name was Meehan, and that with two Norwegians he had crossed tho pass in February, having been over it previously, and that dragging their food on sledges, they had descended tho Altsohk to a point whoro a largo river, culled Kla-tsa-kult, came in from tho westward. Mr. Glavo also noted this large river, which will probably bo the route followed by future explorers. They had found no indications of gold, and had abandoned most of their baggage and provisions, as the disappearance of tho snow had made it necessary to " pack " their things instead of using sledges on tho return journey. He had outstripped tho others who had heavier packs. 1 took him with me to tho coast. Of his two companions one was drowned in tho Elahecna a few days later, at a spot where we ourselves experienced great difiBculty both in ascending and descending. Later on I saw the survivor. From these two men I learnt that just over tho pass there are some houses used by the Chilcat Indians as stores for their trade with the tribes of the interior. Tho Chilcats and Chilcooto will not allow these inland tribes to approach tho coast with their furs, but insist on acting as middlemen between them and the white traders. This was tho reason they wished to assure themselves whether or not I had come to trade with these inland tribes. I might further illustrate this by referring +o the difficulty Mr. Ogilvie experienced in persuading these inland, or Tagish Indians, to commeiice the trauspovt of his effects from the point where the coast Indians had deposited them, as it was yet in the country whoro tho latter claim exclusive rights. They seem no better than slaves to the Chilcoots, and are afraid of offending them. Many of the Chilcoot and Chilcat Indians have Tagish wives, some of whom I saw, and remarked a distinct difference of type, though it was NOUTH-WKST BRITISH COLUMBIA. of tlio branchofi wcro ohligod to baiilcH, from which ;cd into a diHtrict icks of puro white t'd witli inurblo of Jr. On tho 26th I [tainH at tho foot of mo (liHtiint rangos showing, and bare miles above my nch leading to tho jirogioss easier. I Uesloy or Elahccnu mco from our camp who had reoroRsed said hib name was iroBsod Iho pass in Iragging their food lint whoro a largo :d. Mr. Glavo also ) route followed by abandoned most of > of tho snow had ising sledges on tho I had heavier packs. )mpani( but after a few hours, snow began to fall, and continued for thirty ' ours, and they had to return without having reached the summit. They made another attempt two days later, and again a storm came as suddenly as before. A glacier which they estimated to measure a thousaE'l ..quaro miles lying at the south base of Mount St. Elias, thoy named the Piedmont. But I think this must be what the American Coast Survey had already named Malaspina Plateau, the western part of which wo named the Great Agassiz Glacier. With regard to th® new height of Mount St. 2 ^ ■IrtK-U^K, 84 EXPLORATIONS IN ALASKA AND Elias, Mr. Baker who, with Mr. Dall, made the previous triangulatiorl which gave 19,500 feet, is spoken of as one of the most accomplished mathematicians in the United States Survey. Our Admiralty chart gave 14,975 feet, the Russian chart 17,854, Grewink 16,764, D'Agelet 12,672, and I stated in 1887 that it seemed to me not to exceed 15,000 feet. I have thus described to you a portion of this most interesting part of North America, which in grandeur of natural topography far exceeds the rest of the continent, and have touched upon the various explorations which have been carried on there this summer. Owing to the extremely mountainous character of the country, its resources are practically limited to minerals, fisheries, and timber. There is large area of country in the neighbourhood of the head- waters of the White Eiver of which we know nothing. I am aware that the members of the American exploring party, as well as myself, cherished the secret hope of being able to reach that country. Some of the reasons why this White River country is interesting though mysterious are these : first, the widespread and comparatively modem layer of volcanic ash, or pumiceous sand, deposited over a largo area of the Upper Yukon basin, observed by Dr. Dawson in 1887. The position of the greater mass of the deposit seems to show that it was derived from the westward. The nearest volcano is Mount Wrangell at the forks of the Copper river ; but the Indians report the existence of a burning mountain near the head-waters of the White River. This layer was observed in one place on Lowes river to rest upon stratified sands a few feet thick, which in turn overlie a mass of drift logs still quito sound and andecayed. That the eruption was on a great scale is evident from the extent of deposit. Then agaij, the Yukon has no tributaries of any size on the left bank below the Takeena for a great distance, with the sol'tary exception of this White River, which fact, taken together with the general appearance of the country in that direction, as seen by Dr. Dawson so far as ho was able to overlook it, seem to show that tho basin of this river must be comparatively low. Moreover, since tho coast ranges in British Columbia and Alaska cause a belt of very dry climate to exist immediately in their lee (where I might mention that artificial irrigation is necessary to agriculture), and as the St. Elias Alps are exceptionally high and snowy, this White River country should provo exceptionally dry and possess many remarkable features. On the conclusion of the paper, - v . . Dr. J. Bae said : — I regret to say that I have not been in that part of America of which Mr. Karr has given ns such a p' easing and instructive account. Tho places that I liave visited have nothing of those characteristics, with the exception of part* of the Rocky Mountains, where I have travelled a little ; but I think Mr. Karr does not allow sufBcient advantage to the sledge. To my mind it is easier to haul 150 lbs. on a sledge than to carry 50 lbs. on your back, particularly over snow. The weight on the back einks one down into the snow, while the sledging is a much NOBTH-WEST BRITISH COLUMBIA— DISCUSSION. 85 previous triangulatioil the most accomplislied Our Admiralty chart wink 16,754, D'Agelet to me not to exceed a most interesting part topography far exceeds the various explorations Dwing to the extremely jouroes are practically ihourhood of the head- ,hing. I am aware that ty, as well as myself, ;hat country. country is interesting read and comparatively ., deposited over a largo Dawson in 1887. The ms to show that it was 10 is Mount Wrangell at eport the existence of a ^hiteEiver. This layer t upon stratified sands a of drift logs still quite X a great scale is evident fukon has no tributaries 'or a great distance, with lich fact, taken together ;hat direction, as seen by it, seem to show that the w. Moreover, since the cause a belt of very dry re I might mention that and as the St. Elias Alps iver country should provo ) features. Dean in that part of America ttd inBtrnctive account. The eristics, with the exception of led a little ; but I think Mr. To my mind it is easier to hack, particularly over snow. •, while the sledging is a much more easy process. For icstanoe, on one occasion I hauled a sledge carrying 60 lbs. cr 70 lbs. for HOC miles, u»i oar average day's journey was 24 miles. The snow was in fairly good conditioii, mud we came back well. If I had been carrying that weight it would have been very difficult. I am sorry I can give no information as to work over such a very lodcy country as Mr. Seton-Karr speaks of, with one exception — i. e. travelling on the west coast of Melville Peninsula, where it was impossible to haul a sledge, and we had to carry on our backs everything we required to use. Fortunately w