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This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est filmd au taux de reduction indiqu6 ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X J 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X The copy filmed here hes been reproduced thenks to the generosity of: Douglas Library Queen's University L'exemplaire film* fut reproduit grice A la ginArositi de: Douglas Library Queen's University The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. 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Tous les autres oxemplaires originaux sont filmte en commen^ant par la premiere page qui comporte une empreinte d'Impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernlAre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaltra sur la dernlAre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbole — ► signifie "A SUiVRE", le symbole V signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre fiimAs A des taux de r6duction diffirents. Lorsque ie document est trop grand pour fttre reproduit en un seul clichA, il est film* A partir de I'angle supArieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant ie nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. 32X 1 2 3 4 S 6 c; f # V LON CENTENNIA3^TOUR(7 IN TH?A UNITED STATES AND CANADA. BY JOSEPH WRIGHT, MACCLESFIELD. MACCLESFIFXD : SWTNNERTON AND BROWN. LONDON : KENT AND CO., PATERNOSTER ROW. 1877. IP % X s. \ I V CONTENTS. A CENTENNIAL TOUR. Introductory Chapter i.— New York. Broadway and its crowds — Telelgraph and news- paper enterprise — Postal system — Street cars — Public buildings and institutions — Wharves and .^ piers — The oyster trade — Railways — The Parks — Water supply — Defective streets Chanter II. — Patrrson. Silk industry — Passaic Falls — Population and trade enterprise — Locomotive works — Macclesfield weavers — Street crnamentation — Frame houses . Chapter III — Niagara and Buffalo. Falls of Niagara — Buffalo : its population and trade — Public buildings — Visit to State Normal School : "advice and greeting" — Visit to the Central School — Nationalities — Compulsory education — Public prosecutors — Lake population Chapter IV.— Canada. Toronto : Railway enterprise — Manufacturing in- terests — Streets — Public buildings — Religious be- liefs — Dr. Punshon's church. Ottawa : Parlia- mentary buildings — Political parties — Lumber trade — Novel sewers — Coopering trade — Streets — Water supply — Drawback to emigration. Montreal: "Garden of Canada"— Churches and chapels — Public buildings — Loyalty to the Queen — *' Victoria " suspension bridge — Fire alarm telegraph. Quebec : Fortifications — scenery — Falls of Montmorency. Return Journey : Islard Pond hotel — Maine law 4\5VV\ PAttl. 7-8 9-23 24—28 29-48 49 — 61 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. PAOK. Chapter V.— Up thk Hudson. Yonkers — American advertising — Catskill mountains "Sleepy Hollow "—Mountain legends— A mid- night ride — Sunrise — Kaaterskill Falls — Albany boats — West Point military academy — Hotel life — " The Highlands " — River scenery . . 62 — 70 Chapter VI.— Phii,ai>ki.phia and tiik Exhibition. •'City of marble" — Streets and buildings — I'enn's treaty with the Indians- Independence Hall — Historical relics — Masonic Hall — Safe Deposit Companies — The Centennial Exhibition : Fairmount park and buildings — Features of the Exhibition — Memorial Hall — American products — Visitors — Police characteristics — General opinion of the Exhibition ....... 71 — 84 Chapter VII. — Washington and its Environs. "City of distances" — The Capitol — Description of its buildings — .Smoking habits of Americans — Public buildings — Washington's tomb: veneration of Americans for their hero — Alexandria — Sad relics of the war — Soldiers' tombs — Arlington Heights — Market Halls — Dair)' produce — Colored population 85 — 96 Chapter VIII.— Manufacturing Industries. Visit to the Pacific Cotton Mills, North Lawrence — New occupations — The silk industry — Protective Customs' Duties — Free trade — Visit to Messrs. Cheney Brothers' Silk Mills, South Manchester — Silk machinery — American shrewdness and inqui- sitiveness — Hartford — .Sewing machine industries 97 — 106 Chapter IX.— Brooklyn. " City of churches" — Burning of Brooklyn theatre — Fire panics — Greenwood cemetery — Costly monu- ments — Sunday school system — Bible names — River steamers 107 — 113 Chapter X.— Boston. , Boston ladies — Educational work — Boston school re- port, 1875 — Statistics — Lowell Grammar school — The streets and buildings — Parks — State House — National monuments — Public carriages — Congresses — Bible in public schools . . 114 — 128 CONTENTS. PAOR. Chapter XI.— Thk Presidential Election. Torchlight processions — Citizen soldiers — Heateii ar- gument — Election day — The voting system — con- flicting reports — Election of Mr. Hayes . . 129 — 132 Chapter XII.— American Hotels. The hotel system — Advantages and drawbacks — Com- fort of ladies — Palmer House, Chicago — The table ntmorency Falls ; Portland (Maine), Boston (Massachusetts) ; the beautiful Hudson River and the valley of the Catskill mountains ; Philadelphia and the Centennial Exhibition ; Baltimore, Washington, Pittsburg and the Great Western city of Chicago ; returning thence by Cleveland and Meadville to the industrial and thriving silk towns of South Man- chester and Hartford, Connecticut. The distance travelled by rail and river was probably over 5, OCX) miles. At the solicitation of many friends, the writer has consented to place his observations on record for the jierusal of his fellow- lownsm.en. He does so, not with any pretension to literaiy achive- ment, or with any claim to novelty or originality, but with a desire that any who are interested may participate in the information derivable from a visit to that great and interesting country — the adopted home of so many sturdy Englishmen, and now the proud rival of the most flourishing Eurojiean States. Privileged to enjoy the companionship of his brother-in-law, Mr. William Ryle of Paterson, during the greater portion of the journey, the writer's Centennial Tour was rendered additionally pleasant and instructive ; and while speaking for himself the writer has also ventured to be the narrator for his esteemed fellow-traveller, without however desiring to pledge him, in the opinion of the reader, to any views expressed on controverted matters. But on many points it is difficult for observant and intelligent Englishmen to entertain divergent views with reference to America. They must all combine 8 INTRODUCTORY. in admiration of the vast extent and mogniticunce of the New World — the imposing grandeur of its varied scenery, and the stupen- dous scale of its natural wonders ; neither can they fail to be struck with the mighty enterprise, independence and wealth which its inhabitants liave dcvel«)|)ed and are yet developing. Ft is as if the one were meant to bear proportions to ihe other ; hence it may safely be predicted that America has not yet reached the pride of her excellence or the pinnacle of her power. The writer and his friend (the latter returning from a short visit to England) left l,iverpool on Saturday, the 2nd September, in the Royal Mail Steamer, " Russia." The weather was favourable ; all on board were in good health and spirits, and formed a very agreeable and entertaining company, and with the exception of a little rough weather (m Sunday, the loth, which interfered with the religious service conducted in the saloon by the Hishop of Nebraska, the voyage throughout was of a very pleasant character. On Thursday, the 14th, the good ship entered New York Hay, and many of the passengers (the writer among the number) beheld for the first time a panoramic scene which was not less striking than welcome. They were surrounded by a fleet of spKmditI ships and steamers gliding over a surface as smooth as glass, and reflecting the emerald green verdure which adorns Stalen and (loverners Islands, on which loom extensive fortifications. In front rose the grei\t commercial metropolis of the Western world, with its broken outline of spires and business marts in the distance ; in the foreground tl^.e stupendous piers of the new bridge designed to connect the cities of New York and lirooklyn ; and nearer still the broad ferry -boats of peculiar con- struction busily plying to and fro with their living burdens. Ere long the passengers of the "Russia" are among the anxious and curious crowd hurrying ashore, but an infliction awaits them in the vexatious ordeal of the Custom 1 louse ; even that, however, is surmounted after a chivalrous exercise of patience ; and the writer now asks the reader to imagine all the incidents of the voyage ended, the Custom House passed, and all safely landed in New York. "^"^"aiiar *^^^'^'-'-i°rtr" as if A CKNTKNNIAL TOUR. I. NEW YORK. the and con- Ere and the is ritcr ^imEVV YORK is a city of many bold features and Ul^^ of some strikinj^ anomalies, its naturnl ad- vantaj^es are undoubted ; its fine narbrur, splendid situation and healthy climate, fit it to V^e tlie capital of tlic Western world ; while its [^if^antic commercial enterprise and the mat^nificent proportions of many of its public buildings deserve the hi[(h admiration which they command. But its municipal j^^overnment is defective ; sanitary precautions are considerably neg- lected ; the condition of its streets is a standing reproach ; and the waste permitted has. notwithstand- ing the immense resources, at times seriously imperilled the water supply of the city. To these anomalies we may refer again presently. The streets of New York are full of attractions for the visitor. Broadway, with its moving crowds and succession of rapidly-changing effects, lingers in the memory like a brilliant picture. We found ourselves, on landing, close by Wall-street. This is well known as the " Lombard-street " of New York ; it is here that those smart business men for which America is famous " most do congregate," and where . the fluctuations of the commercial barometer not un- B 10 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. frequently produce scenes of j^reat excitement. In asking the reader to accompany us, in imagination, in our rapid glance through the city, we warn him that there will be little opportunity of lingering long at particular places ; like the inhabitants generally we must " go ahead." Immediately in front of Wall-street stands Trinity Church, a handsome cathedral-like structure,, cele- brated for the fine music of its choir and the beauty of its chimes. Leaving this structure, with its venerable-looking graveyard on our left, and proceed- ing up Broadway, we approach the splendid building occupied by the Western Union Telegraph Company. One can ot refrain from a reflection on the wonderful development of telegraphic enterprise as we contem- plate this extensive building, which enshrouds the wonderful giant whose far-reaching arms, in the shape of slender threads of wire, are stretching out to all parts of the worid. The first sub-Atlantic message, that from Queen Victoria to President Buchanan, was sent in 1858. Fourteen years before that time, Professor Morse, with great difficulty, obtained the sanction of the American Senate to the construction of a telegraph connecting New York with Washington. Since then electric? cy, as developed in the telegraph, has added a mighty power to civilization ; and in the telephone, with which experiments have already been successfully tried at l^oston, America appears to be on the eve of another important discovery in electrical science. The building before us is constructed of pressed red brick, embellished with granite and marble. From nearly every window issue wires connecting the various important centres of population, — a marvellous net- NEW YORK. II work, which may be described as wings of the Hghtning. It is said that inside the operating room a hundred keys and sounders are clicking at once ; and an idea may be formed of the immense business done by the Company from the fact that its profits for the past eight years have been above five million dollars f ;^ i ,ooo,ocx) sterling). The application of telegraphy is being wonderfully extended in America for every-day purposes. For the modest sum of twenty-five dollars per annum (;^5), a merchant can be provided with an indicator in his own office which places him eti rapport with a central office, where ample provision is made for commercial and domestic requirements. If a messenger is needed, the button of the indicator has to be pressed once, and forthwith a willing servitor appears, who will faithfully execute your mission, bringing back an answer if desired, the charge for these services being 25 cents, (one shilling) ; if the button is pressed twice, it is the signal for the presence of a policeman ; and in the dread emergenc}^ of fire all that is necessary is to touch the indicator three times and a fully-equipped fireman is speedily on the spot. Recently a system has been developed by which business stores can be additionally protected during the absence of the owners. Telegraphic wires connect these places of business with a Central Vigilance Office, and on the opening of doors or windows the presence of burglars or intruders is immediately detected. A weekly report is also furnished as to the times at which doors and windows have been opened, contrary \i instructions, by the resident watchman. Sir Henry Thompson, the greatest living authority on the 12 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. science of electricity, recently expressed his admiration and astonishment at the ingenuity and utility of the application of telegraph wires on the American con- tinent. Wc have not far to proceed up Broadway before our attention is arrested by other prominent and imposing buildings. Here we have the grand central offices of that wonder of newspaper enterprise — the Neiv York Herald ; the offices of the Trilmne and other newspapers are not far distant. Every one is acquainted with the giant strides which the American press has made during the past twenty years ; neither time, nor distance, nor expense is allowed to stand in the way of the most enterprising achievements for the collection of information from all parts of the world ; the foot of Livingstone has been tracked through the unknown wilds of Africa, and some day we may expect to see an American newspaper expedition to the Arctic regions, resolved to set at rest the mys- teries of the North Pole ! The Herald receives telegraphic news from all parts of the world, and has correspondents in every portion of the Union ; and the vast circulation of the paper shows to what extent the American people relish swift, if not at all times ac- curate, information. But cleverly conducted as are the American newspapers, and smart as are their produc- tions, the readers of English newspapers have nothing to complain of by comparison. The high-toned purity of the English press is fully recognized in America, and the learning and ability they display are regarded with the deepest respect. Moreover, English news- papers arc cheaper than American. The price increases in America in proportion to your distance from the NEW YORK. 13 place of publication, and there is also an extra charge made by street newsboys and agents — a system of blackmail which the proprietor of the Herald is very laudably doing his best to uproot. Pursuing our way up Broadway we reach the Central Post Office — a noble decorated pile of the Doric order. It may be remarked that the postal system of America is r.ot equal to that of P2ngland. There is a slovenliness and uncertainty of delivery in America which contrasts very unfavourably with the regularity of the " postman's knock " in England ; but there is probably as much blame due to the eagerness of the recipients as to the imperfection of the system. " Hurry up " seems to be a kind of universal watch- word with the American people ; and everything and everybody is expected to respond to the familiar idea. Hence there is a general " hurrying-up " for letters ; and just as some people are expected to get up almost before they go to bed, there are others who expect to receive letters before they are written. This univer- sal hurry is not likely to forward real expedition; and it is certain to give birth to complaints. But there are some features of the American postal system which are worthy of admiration. At the grand Central Office in Broadway, every facility and con- venience are afforded for the reception of letters. There arc receiving boxes not only for States but for Counties. There are also private delivery boxes for merchants and others ; and the owner or his clerk, being supplied with a private key, can help him- self to the contents. There are also separate depart- ments, with female attendants, where ladies may transact their postal business — an improvement upon 14 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. the English system which ladies in our large towns would no doubt appreciate. Broadway extends for several miles, and along the whole extent there is a fine succession of handsome buildings. The Insurance Offices attract attention by their costly and elaborate architectural display ; and one cannot restrain the thought that some share- holders would probably complain, and with justice, if such a needless and extravagant outlay were incurred by similar offices in England. Broadway also contains some of the oldest and most celebrated of the American hotels, but these we merely mention at present, as we propose to treat more fully on American hotds as we proceed. Having progressed thus far on foot, we may be supposed to enter a passing stage or omnibus, having in doing so deposited our ten cents in a box provided for the purpose. These stages aie worked without conductors, and the driver is not allowed to receive money, though empowered to give change to the amount of two dollars. The same also applies to one- horse street cars, which are very numerous. The one and two-horse cars in New York alone employ 5000 men and 9000 horses, and it is calculated that they convey 350,000 persons daily. We have the opportunity as we pass along to notice more at leisure that attractive sight, a Broadway crowd. The broad pavements of this grand thoroughfare are filled throughout the day with picturesque life. It is a curious feature, by the way, that there are certain marked changes in the appearance of the moving throng, according to the hour of the day. Early in the morning comes the first inundation of the industrial wave ; the «! NEW YORK. 15 towns vvorkinjT people, the sewing girls, the younger clerks, &c. pour into the street from right and left. After an hour or two's interval the business men hurry onward in the same course ; as the prime of the day approaches, the ladies appear, intent on shopping expeditions, giving unconsciously an added degree of warmth and beauty to the scene, and imparting an indescribable charm by their vivacity of manner, the elegance of their costumes, and the attractions with which nature has so abundantly endowed them. We alight near Stewart's marble Retail Store, a beautiful and commodious square block, probably second only to the Bon Marchc in Paris. It is only by an interior view that one can obtain an idea of the immensity of this building, and even then it is start- ling to realise the fact that if the eight floors which are in view, from the basement to the dome, could be spread out on a level, they would cover a space of fifteen acres. Almost any " dry goods " article that can be enumerated is to be found here — from a needle to a coronet ; and everything is carefully arranged for inspection, each in its proper department. There is also a wholesale store of large dimensions under the same proprietorship, within a short distance of this mal^^'"^oth retail estaolishment. Leaving Broadway at the point where Grace Church, one of the most fashionable of New York places of worship, marks a sharp turn to the left, we pass through Union-square, which is adorned with a bronze statue of Abraham Lincoln, to Madison-square, and are in view of the celebrated Fifth Avenue Hotel, one of the most chaste and elegant hotel structures in the city. Near this stately rendezvous stands a highly- i6 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. i i^ ornamented structure belonging to the Young Men's Christian Association ; the interior of this building, with its rich library and ample gymnasium, is illustra- tive of the work and objects of a society which occupies a prominent position in America, and which has an organization in every town and city of promi- nence. The houses of the wealthy residents on the Fifth Avenue and also in Madison Avenue, testify to a high appreciation of architectural and decorative art. Some of these edifices are of very fine proportions. The Cooper Institute deserves to be mentioned. This is a noble brown stone edifice, erected at a cost of $300,000 (;^6o,ooo). It was the generous gift of Peter Cooper, one of the merchant princes of New York, and stands a monument of the philanthropic desire of a successful citizen to promote the moral, intellectual, and physical improvement of his countrymen. The late William Stewart's hotel for working women, a colossal building of white marble, will serve to instance a similar gift; and when opened it will doubtless prove a highly-prized boon to those for whom it is specially intended. We have mentioned the useful work of the Young Men's Christian Association as being taken up with great spirit in the principal cities of America. Another society which attracts attention is that which has for its object the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, whose efforts are not only well understood and appre- ciated, but are actively seconded by the citizens. Its principles are also supported and acted upon in districts far away from city life. The State laws, moreover, provide that cattle conveyed in railway trucks shall be allowed to leave the trucks at intervals NEW YORK. I'; for pasture grazing, and that water shall be regularly supplied them. This provision is rendered the more necessary by the very long distances over which cattle are brought ; but the adoption of humane precautions in the treatment of dumb animals is a gratifying feature throughout the Union. New York can also boast of a society whose object is the prevention of cruelty to children ; such a society, though it is to be hoped to a lesser degree than formerly, may find scope for work in most large cities. The province of the New York society is to " seek out and rescue from the dens and slums of the city those little unfortunates whose childish lives are rendered miserable by the constant abuse and cruelties practiced on them by the human brutes who happen to possess the custody or control of them." The report of this excellent society for the year 1876, shows that suitable homes were found for 223 children who would otherwise have been homeless or under evil influences ; and that the hiring out and use of young children for dangerous occupations, such as those of gymnasts, acrobats, circus riders, &c., had been entirely suppressed so far as concerned the city of New York, while the practice had received a severe check throughout the country. There are many places in New York to a proper description of which special visits are necessary ; but time and other arrangements did not permit of this in our case, and we must therefore content ourselves with a passing notice merely. The wharves and piers are naturally a prominent feature of a great commercial port like New York, which in one year received into the harbour - 9,456 vessels, of an aggregate capacity of 7,824,411 tons, and with crews numbering i8 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. i; 'I : f i!ii ii 238,484 men. There is nothing architecturally attrac- tive in the buildings surrounding these wharves. They are rough, incongruous, battered-looking structures, presenting altogether a curious spectacle. But the grim rows of sail lofts, ship chandleries and stores, standing like weather-beaten battalions of nautical veterans, overlook a busy scene, and before you have time to devote much observation to the ugly piles of unpainted timber and unpretentious-looking docks, you find yourself jostled about by the active crowd of porters, draymen, and others, and begin to realize that here is carried on a shipping trade whose extent is astounding, and that the buildings surrounding you Are the storehouses of riches which are to be distributed throughout the world. At the foot of Christopher-street your attention is directed to a row of curiou looking barges ; these are floating oyster repositories. Colossal fortunes, it is said, have been made in the American oyster trade. Thousands of oyster men are engaged in the delivery of this delicious sea-fruit at the railway depots, and to th hotels and restaurants of the city; and from Fulton market (the "Billingsgate" of New York) to the humblest grog shop, there is hardly a place in the East of America wherein oysters — raw, roasted, fried, scallopped, stewed or otherwise — cannot be procured at all hours. We have referred to the railway depots. That in connection with the Grand Central Railroad at New York is considered the finest building of the kind in America. Its exterior is imposing, and itii beautiful proportions give it a marked prominence even in a city distinguished by much architectural NEW YORK. IP merit. Its appearance rather reminds one of the Tuilcries at Paris. On entering, admiration is excited by the constructive skill which has spanned an area of three acres with one magnificent roof. One feature of management on this railway is . deserving of notice, and might, we thought, be imitated by English railroad companies with an addition to the comfort of passengers. No luggage is permitted on the departure platforms. On the appearance of a traveller, his luggage is at once taken charge of by an official, who gives him a check in exchange. Baggage cars are in immediate readi- ness ; these cars arc attached at the proper time to the passenger train, and the passengers arc relieved from the uncertainty and scrambling which cause so much rushing to and fro, and unnecessary noise and confusion, at English railway stations. Ikfore arriv- ing at his destination the passenger gives up his luggage check to the collector, who makes a tour of the carriages for the purpose, and the luggage is sent to his hotel or elsewhere, or deposited at the station, as the passenger desires, without further trouble. What an Englishman most misses at the railway stations is the attention of porters. He has also to dispense with the accommodation of cheap cabs, having to depend for easy locomotion through the streets, cither on the comfortable street tramway cars, or the luxurious but very expensive one or two-horse landaus or broughams. The elevated railroad, extending a distance of five miles from Castle Gardens, is much used for rapid street travelling. It runs immediately over the footpath, on a foundation supported by iron columns 20 feet high. The cars used on this remarkable rail- Vw ao A CENTENNIAL TOUR. i I road arc much the same in appearance as those on ordinary lines ; and whether the assertion that they cannot fall off the track be true or not, it is a fact that they have hitherto escaped serious accident. Nervous people have excusable misgivings respecting this line, and refrain from travelling by it, but it is much appreciated by gc-nhead business men as representing the nearest approach that has yet been found to a solution of the all-engrossing rapid-transit problem. A stroll through the *' Central Park " at New York affords the visitor a pleasant opportunity of becoming acquainted with some phases of the out-door life of the city. This Park consists of some 860 acres. It is very ornamentally laid out ; elegant bridges em- bellished with richly carved masonry span a sparkling stream which runs through the grounds ; there are excellent promenades and ample space for equestrian and carriage exercise, and almost every style of turn-out may be seen there. Great sums of money have been spent in making this Park attractive, and when completed it will be very beautiful. The New York Central Park suffers, however, by comparison with its sister. Prospect Park, at Brooklyn. The latter is splendidly-situate between the Atlantic and the Bay of New York. It is well wooded, and what art has done for the Central, nature has more than surpassed in the charming retreat at Brooklyn. The total cost of this magnificent addition to the recreative resorts of the crowded and bustling city is stated at nine million dollars, or ;^ 1,800,000. We have mentioned elsewhere the condition of the streets and the water supply of New York. Upon the latter subject, as there were fears of a scarcity at 11 NEW YORK. 21 the time of our visit, wc made some enquiries, the result of which may be found interesting. The source of the water supply of New York is the famed Croton Lake. At the time the Croton aqueduct was pro- jected it was supposed that 40 gallons a day would be a liberal allowance. This quantity is in excess of the actual consumption in many of the principal European cities. In London, for instance, the average per head is only 33 gallons per day, Paris 38, Edinburgh 35, Liverpool 30, Manchester 21, and Sheffield 20. In Dublin the average consumption is 60 gallons per head, and in Glasgow 52. The Macclesfield average is only i$}4 gallons per head per day. But American cities throughout show a much larger consumption than in England. Baltimore averages 50 gallons per head ; Cincinnati 53, Philadelphia 56, l^oston 60, St. Louis 60, Brooklyn 60, Buffalo 63, Reading 75, Hartford 80, and Chicago 80. New York considerably oversteps even the highest of these high figures ; the rate there has gone on increasing until it has reached the as- tounding average of 95 gallons per head per day for the 1,200,000 inhabitants, or a total of 114,000,000 gallons daily. Even taking into consideration the modern improvements in dwelling houses and hotels, the increase in manufactories and shipping, the es- tablishment of public fountains and the demand for street sprinkling, extinguishing of fires, &c., this enor- mous consumption, in comparison with other large cities, can only be accounted for by supposing a great amount of extravagance and waste. At the time of our visit there was only a reserve of some 600,000,000 gallons, and serious apprehensions as to the con- tinuance of the supply was not unnaturally entertained. 22 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. Other larfT^c reservoirs however were in course of construction, and were expected when completed to be capable of holding four thousand million gallons, or upwards of a month's additional supply. Our complaint with reference to the streets is one which has found a much stronger expression in the American press. Not only are the footways in many of the business streets allowed to be blocked with bales and packages of merchandise, the pedestrian being left to pick his way in the channel or the road- way, at the risk of being thrown under the wheels of some of the numberless tram cars, but the streets themselves are in a deplorably neglected condition. The following is an extract from one of the American papers published during our visit : " A stranger \ o lands in Jersey City, or at any of our own docks, and receives his first impressions of New York from a ride in a street hack up or across town, must form a very poor opinion of the great Western metropolis. Our own citizens who return home after travelling the well- kept roads of European cities, must feel a sense of shame at the miserable condition of our own streets. Business is blocked during the most important hours of the day through the obstructions caused by bad pavements ; street cleaning is rendered more difficult and more expensive, and disease is engendered where the streets are full of holes which form recep- tacles for the mud and slush, or have rotten, spongy wood for a road-bpd." There requires no additional touch to this picture. It is satisfactory to learn that a Bill providing for the repair of all the streets to which this description applies has been before the Senate ; but it is incredible NEW YORK. 2, that so fine a city should rest under sueh a reproach, and amentablc to think that money raised to ensure .ts clearness should be devoted to ot'^cr purposes by a weak municipal government. 24 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. II. PATERSON. )HE Rise and Progress of the Silk Industry is the congenial theme of a work which had been issued by the American Silk Association * just pre- vious to our visit to Paterson, and as it contains an admirable description of Paterson and the Silk Industry, which our observations and enquiries tended to verify, we make no apology for giving a few brief extracts : " Nestled among the foothills of the Ramapo range, and distant only twenty miles by rail from the great Metropolis, lies the city of Paterson, which claims the title of "the Lyons of America." Here the tourist going westward by the Erie Railway has his first glimpse of the mountain scenery penetrated by that highway. Here the Passaic river, fed by innumerable rills from loftier heights beyond, plunges suddenly downward in a fall of fifty feet ; then tearing its way between perpendicular cliffs that resemble the Palisades of the Hudson, it sinks twenty-two feet further, to the level of the plain. Fc many years before the Passaic Falls were made to turn the wheels of industry, they served to attract visitors by their picturesque beauty. Thanks to the energy and public spirit of John Ryle, the '^ilk manufacturer, that natural beauty has been measurably preserved in a park, the free use of which * "The Silk Industry in America : " a History prepaid for the Centennial Exposition, by L. P. Brockett, M.D.— 1876. ■A' A .,"* PATERSON. H he has given to the public. Proximity to New York, the water-pc^ver of the Passaic, the facilities afforded by the Morris and Essex Canal, and at a latter date by the Erie Railway — all these were, causes which ..lade Paterson a manufacturing town." " Certain important facts in the history of Pater- son's silk industry should here be noted, (i) The weaving of dress silks was not successful as a business during the whole period prior to the Tariff Act of 1 86 1, though the broad goods occasionally made were quite satisfactory in appearance, texture and quality. (2) Under the low tariff there was no competition in silk manufacture at Paterson for nearly twelve years ; and when, under the tariff, competition did begin, it was very limited in character and extent. (3) Under the tariff of 1 861, as we shall proceed to show, Pater- son became the centre of a great silk industry, in which many prominent concerns engaged, and large amounts of capital were invested. The competition became exceedingly active and strenuous. The manu- facture included a wide variety of goods, some of which had never been made in America before; and the weaving of broad goods and fancy silks was fairly established. These facts are the more remark- able when we consider the circumstances. Paterson had been favored from the first with abundant water- power, proximity to a great commercial port, and excellent facilities for transportation. As to the first of these elements of attractiveness, it may be admitted that great power is not required for a silk mill, and that steam is almost as economical as water for driving light machinery. But water itself, in large quantities, and of fair purity, is absolutely required in the pro- C 26 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. I' m iiii cesses of silk manufacture, especially in cleansing the silk by repeated washings to bring out its natural lustre. Paterson could from the first supply pure water abundantly. More important than anything else, however, was cheap labour. Without this, the other advantages would have been of small account. Paterson had at an early period drawn together a labouring population. The men were employed in machine shops and on heavy work. Their wives and children needed employment ; and although this was afforded by the cotton mills, the operatives objected to it as being too confining and hard. The silk mill afforded a welcome relief Its work called for care and dexterity instead of severe and protracted effort ; and was cleanly and wholesome. The girls and young women of Paterson thought it an honour, or at all events an evidence of respectability, to be employed in the silk mill. As a consequence, Paterson offered that greatest desideratum of the silk-maker, cheap labour. Yet under a low tariff, few manufacturers came thither. Under that of 1861, they not only came ; they crowded in. By their own competition they raised the price of labour, and moreover, its price was also raised by the factitious values of the war. Nevertheless, they still drop in (a few dia in 1875-6) and settle at Paterson ; and, bringing with them capital and experience, help to keep its inhabitants busy and make it a prosperous city." Though the population of Paterson (numbering about 40,000) is mainly supported by the silk manu- facture, there are other industries carried on here, among them being several large iron and loco- motive works. The magnificent Falls and their PATERSON. ^ beautiful surroundings are a great attraction to visitors ; the town abounds with fine churches and excellent schools, and the prosperity of the place is abundantly evinced by the charming villa residences with which Broadway and its other fashionable streets abound. From the wealth and enterprise of its inhabitants it may fairly be expected to become ere long an important adjunct of New York. Many Macclesfield weavers have found a home at Paterson, and it is pleasant to record that the presence of a Macclesfield silk manufacturer among them was accepted as an occasion for a generous outburst of sentiment, which, gratifying as it was individually, deserves to be regarded also as an act of loyalty to the good old town. * We shall have occasion to speak of the Silk Trade of America, as developed elsewhere than at Paterson, as we proceed. It v/as at Paterson we first noticed that the retail shopkeepers in America do not go to the trouble of " putting up shutters." Consequently the goods remain exposed even when the shops are closed for business. We were given to understand that an American felon would think it contemptible to rob a shop window of a pair of boots, whilst he would spend days and nights in extracting a pair of diamond ear- rings from an iron safe. But we suspect there are thieves and thieves even in America. Most of the streets of Paterson are ornamented with very fine trees, which have a pleasing effect even in winter. The wealthy inhabitants seem- very fond * Extract from Paterson Daily Press. See Appendix. I , ' 2a A CENTENNIAL TOUR. of carriage exercise, and indulge a taste for good horses and elegant vehicles. The roads, however, are bad, and to acquire speed, which everywhere in America is deemed the first essential, horses of the best descrip- tion are selected by the well-to-do residents. Indeed, both in the horses and the vehicles, even of the humbler descriptions, handiness and speed are made the great considerations. There are many elegant frame houses in Paterson. These are a class of houses by no means uncommon in America. Their recommendation is that they can be conveniently removed from one place to another ; indeed the removal of a house of this description is little thought of Wc remember seeing a large church raised in order to accommodate a schoolroom under- neath it, and we also noticed a brick store which had been similarly elevated ! We had the pleasure of meeting many faces in Paterson that we knew, and many were the enquiries after " the old folks at home." Numerous valued acquaintances were formed through the kindness of our esteemed relatives, and our stay at Paterson was rendered truly agreeable by their kind attention, and by the generous hospitality of numerous friends in this flourishing community. May prosperity and happiness ever attend them ! 29 III. NIAGARA AND BUFFALO. )HE far-famed Falls of Niagara are first among the stupendous natural wonders of America, and it was not long before we found our way thither. Niagara is distant from New York 445 miles, and is approached by the Erie railroad through scenery of the wildest and richest description. We pass lofty and imperious mountains, crowned to their very summit with luxuriant foliage, majestic in its variety and rich- ness of colouring. Bright scarlet, deep maroon, pale amber, burning gold, dark and light green, and other rich hues of Nature's painting blend into one magnifi- cent picture ; and with each breath of the passing breeze, every fantastic leaf is stirred with life, reveal- ing a rich converse of silvery grey. Broad and deep rivers, such as the Delaware and Susquehanna, flow majestically onward to their ocean bed, while from their gleaming margins landscapes of surpassing beauty and boundless extent expand to the view. We left Paterson at 10 a.m., and at two next morning we were nearing the suspension bridge crossing the Niagara River. Shortly afterwards, from the fragile looking bridge, we first caught sight, by moonlight, of the celebrated Falls. We retired to rest within sound of their mighty roar, and afterwards lingered two whole days filled with the contemplation of their awful grandeur, of which description fails to convey any adequate conception. Though the surrounding scenery 30 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. is sufficiently grand to arrest attention, it is over- shadowed by the magnificence of the world-famed Falls, on which the eye of man r jsts with awe and wonder. Our destination from Niagara was the interesting city of Buffalo (State of New York}, the journey to which is easily accomplished from the Suspension Bridge. Buffalo, which has a population of upwards of 160,000, is situated on the South-eastern extremity of Lake Erie, and is remarkable for it enormous com- merce in grain, iron, leather and lumber, which collec- tively represent a never-ceasing stream of industry and wealth. Fine streets and boulevards, on which flourish magnificent trees, vie with imposing churc' es and public buildings in demonstrating the wealth and taste of the inhabitants. Among the public buildings of Buffalo may be mentioned the new City Hall, standing about the centre of the principal street, a model of architectural beauty and adaptability. It contains a capacious council chamber, inlaid with some of the rarest woods ; and all the departments alike exhibit careful and elaborate finish. Observing in the building a bureau for the Superintendent of Education, we enter, and are courteously received by Mr. Spencer, the principal of the Central School, who kindly imparts some use- ful information as to the American educational system. And here we may remark, adopting the language of the Superintendent of public instruction in his last report, " There is no branch of the State Service for \vhich the people more cheerfully pay, no one which they more closely watch, than that of Public In- struction." Hence it may well be supposed that great NIAGARA AND BUFFALO. 3 1 importance is attached to the working and proficiency of the State Schools. Before leaving, we accepted Mr. Spencer's invita- tion to visit his School next morning at quarter-past eight. We accordingly arose early with the view of keeping our appointment, but having taken by mistake the wrong street car, we alighted close by the Buffalo State Normal and Training School, which we after- wards found to be one of the distinctive institutions of the city. Resolved on making the most of our mis- adventure, we sought an introduction to the Principal, and after a brief explanation were courteously welcomed by Mr. Buckham, and were gratified to learn that we were in time for *' the Opening." Before inviting our readers to enter with us, we may explain that the project of securing the location of a State Normal School in the city of Buffalo was first discussed in public at an annual meeting of the teachers of the public schools of that city, in 1866 ; and the sum of $90,000 (;^ 18,000), equally divided between Erie County and the city, was appropriated to the erection of the present handsome structure. The building is situate in tastefully laid out grounds, some four-and-a-half acres in extent, and command- ing a fine view of the city, lake and river. The buildings were completed and furnished in 1870, and in the following year Mr. Henry B. Buckham, A.M., was appointed principal. The School is open free of cost of tuition to all applicants of 16 years of age who wish to prepare for teaching. Admission is gained by applying to a School Commissioner or a Superintendent for a re- commendation, and passing an entrance examination 32 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. in the Elementary Course ; and on being admitted, students are asked to sign a statement that they come to the School to prepare for teaching, and that they intend to teach. In order to pass out of the Elementary Course, or any subject in it, a student must answer at least 85 per cent, of examination questions, prepared by the Principal, and intended to include the entire subject. No one of the subjects can be omitted, but if a Student is deficient in only one, he may be passed, and allowed an examination at some other time. The same rules apply to the more advanced courses. The student may enter for any one of them, but he must pass his examination in all the subjects preceding the point at which he desires to begin. Examinations made elsewhere are not acknow- ledged here, nor from the School Teacher can be accepted a little knowledge of philosophy in place of spelling common words, or of ancient history in place of geography of the United States, or of advanced algebra in place of ability to write a simple composi- tion in good English. The system requires accurate scholars, and not smatterers in the higher branches and slovens in the lower. After completing any of the courses of study, a full year is given to the study of mental and moral philosophy, principles and methods of teaching, practice in the Training School, &c., and the year's work must be done in t/ie School. Diplomas are given to none who do not shew these three essential qualifications — ist, good character; 2nd, good knowledge of subjects to be taught ; 3rd, reasonable promise of success in teaching. In connection with the School it is announced that board can be obtained in private families at three I - ,; I II ■ : Ij , NIAGARA AND BUFFALO. 33 lat ree dollars fifty cents, to five dollars a week ; and the Local Board invites to the School all who are willing to pay the necessary cost of time and labour to obtain an education such as, with fair natural gifts, will equip them for the work of teaching. Idle or frivol- ous young persons, or those who are intellectually feeble, are not wanted ; but the School, through the bounty of the State, offers the opportunity of a good education to all vigorous, earnest, thoughtful persons who will give themselves to the work of teaching. The Faculty of Instruction consists of seven gentle- men and four ladies, and five ladies in addition who are styled Critics in the School of Practice. The " Advice and Greeting " issued by the Faculty to the Students, at the commencement of last session, appears to us so practical and vigorous, that we are con- strained to give a few of the sentences, which deserve consideration by students generally : " In entering the school, you have assumed responsibilities which you should thoughtfully consider and remember. . . You are here, if you ought to be here at all, because the State offers you the kind of instruction you need for the best preparation for the schoolroom. If the School does not give you this, if this is not what you want, you are making an improper use of State insti- tutions ; if this is so, you are receiving from the State the opportunity of a good education and the State expects you to pay back what you are now receiving, not in money, but in better service in its schools. . . . . The Slate has need of good teachers ; it has, at great cost, opened Schools for the express purpose of educating teachers ; you have said in effect, * I accept the offer the States makes, and I promise 34 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. to teach if I can do it well.' Have you thought of the matter in this light ? Arc you doing your daily work in the School in this spirit ? . . . . You not only want to get all you can, but you consider the reputa- tion of the School as your own, and you want a good name, without reproach or distrust, in it. In order to do this, you must shew yourself worthy of confidence ; you must do right because it is right and not because a teacher is watching you ; you should be faithful and honest with yourself in preparing your lessons, in reciting them, in all your intercourse with your class, your^schoolmates, and your teachers. You should shew an active interest in every exercise, and consider it a privilege to be called on to do any part of it. . . In matters which concern School regulations you should do what becomes a lady or gentleman. . . It is not an easy thing to win a good name, but it is a very easy thing to lose it ; and a student at school cannot do an improper act without injuring, and sometimes very seriously, the good name of the whole school. Any breach of propriety lowers by so much the tone of the school community." These extracts are sufficient to shew that every endeavour is made to secure the confidence of the Students, and to ensure a high moral tone in the Normal Training School at Buffalo, which may be taken as a representative of the other training schools of America, the foster-parents of future educational advance and excellence. But it is time that we introduce our readers to the School itself. After an interesting conversation with the author of " Advice and Greeting," we entered the large class-room. School was immediately "called," and both teachers and scholars proceeded to a spacious NIAGARA AND BUFFALO. 3S room, at one end of which was a raised desk and plat- form for the Principal, whilst immediately in front stood a pianoforte, at which one of the professors presided. Both on the desk and the piano newly-cut flowers had been placed, and the entire surroundings indicated a refinement educational in themselves. The strictest silence was preserved while the Principal read a passage of scripture ; a psalm was then chanted ; the Principal then offered an extempore prayer, beautiful in its simplicity, breathing the essence of Christian religion and invoking the Divine help in the duties of the day. Then, with a glad heart, both young men and maidens arose and poured forth, in sweet and melodious strains, the following beautiful devotional hymn, selected from a school-work entitled the " Hour of Singing : " — Mighty God, we worship thee, Lord, we praise Thy power tremendous ; All the earth doth bow the knee And admire Thy works stupendous ; As Thou wast in days of yore, Shalt Thou be for evermore. Cherubim and Seraphim, All to whom a voice is given, Sing to Thee a joyful hymn, Angels serving Thee in heaven, With one voice continually "Holy, Holy, Holy," cry. We were now conducted over the entire establish- ment. The course of study we found to include an Elementary English Course, consisting of grammar and analysis, arithmetic, geography, history of the United States, composition, reading, linear drawing, and spelling ; an Advanced Course, including, in addition to the above, algebra, geometry, English li 36 A CENTENNTAT- TOUR. languap^c, physical geography, physiology and zoology; and a further advanced course, including the additional subjects of trigonometry, rhetoric, history of England, and history of current events, natural philosophy, chemistry, astronomy, and botany. A classical course of one or two years may be entered on at the completion of the elementary studies, this course including Latin, German, and Greek; and an advanced classical course includes mental and moral philosophy, school economy and school law, principles of education, methods of elementary and advanced instruction, and other cognate subjects. We were thoroughly pleased with the entire school arrangements. The well- ventilated and equally well-lighted class rooms were thrown open for our inspection, and whilst our acknowledgments are due to the staff of teachers, all of whom very courteously sought to make our visit both agreeable and instructive, our thanks arc especially due to Mr. Buckham for hi. very obliging kmdness. We left the institution with a u^ impression of its superior management and perfect disci^ 'ine. It may be stated that the Faculty of Instruction at this admirable State school includes eleven presidents of departments, classified as follow;' : — philosophy and didactics (over which Professor Buckham presides), ancient and modern languages, chemistry and miner- alogy, physical science, mathematics, drawing and penmanship, vocal music, elementary methods and critic, reading and rhetoric, grammar and history, and general assistant. The latter four departments are presided over by females. There are five female teachers in the school of practice, nominated by the normal board and appointed by the City Super- NIAGARA AND HUFFALO. 37 intendcnt of Education. The amount paid per annum in teachers' salaries is $13,875 {£2'jy$). There are ei^ht Normal Schools, with some 400 scholars each, in the State of New York ; for these an aggregate sum amounting to upwards of ;^3,ooo a year each is voted by the State ; this being exclusive of the sum necessary for the support of a separate school for New York city. Our pleasant impromptu visit to the Normal Training School ended, we made our way to the Central School, and submitted our apologies to the Principal, Mr. Ray T. Spencer, A.M., for our late arrival ; wc were received with the greatest courtesy and kindness, and the working of the school was amply laid open for our inspection. Here some 400 pupils are taught, at a cost of about ^^"4,000 per annum. The thoroughness of the instruction may be under- stood from the fact that there are teachers for each of the following departments of study : — astronomy and English literature, ancient languages and litera- ture, physical science, French language and literature, botany and geology, rhetoric and elocution, English grammar, arithmetic and physical biography, geometry and bookkeeping, English analysis and composition, algebra and descriptive geography, and English branches, music and singing being taught by the staff of teachers and by a visiting professor. Thus no single teacher is burdened by an unwieldy multiplicity of subjects. We found that the scholars, who are composed of both sexes, are allowed to extend their school studies over a period of four years. In school management generally there can be no doubt that opinion is I mv 38 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. divided as to the advisability of common class rooms for both sexes, and it is evident that uniformity of pract'ce has not yet been arrived at in America. In Massachusetts, for instance, separate school rooms are provided ; in the State of New York the managers are in favour of general class-rooms in which both sexes join. There is doubtless something to be said in favour of both systems ; but for ourselves, we confess to a preference for the admixture of the sexes. If it confers no other benefit, it gives an opportunity to young men of practising those polite and respectful attentions to the fair sex which are so characteristic of gentlemanly deportment ; whilst it may fairly be supposed that the refining influence of female gentleness and goodness is not lost upon the masculine class-mates. It is Mrs. Stowe, an American authoress, who truly says that the most brutal man cannot live in constant association with a strong female influence and not be greatly controlled by it; and an educating influence must be conceded to the young gentlewomen who are to be met with day by day in the common class-room, whom it is a pleasure to suppose as young women — Made good by virtue, Exceeding fair, and their behaviour to it As like a singuhn- musician To a sweet instrument, or else as doctrine Is to the soul, that puts it into act. And prints it full of admirable forms Without which 'twere an empty, idle flame. ^ • Indeed, from the juvenile classes upwards, we observed that the students were treated like ladies and gentlemen, and were expected to behave as such. As an instance of the value attached in American IS a we [dies luch. ican NIAGARA AND BUFFALO. 39 schools to the influence of female teachers, we may- mention the following incident : — We were ushered into a room occupied by a grammar and history class composed of 170 pupils, as many as 80 of which are sometimes taught at one time by an energetic lady to whom we were introduced (Miss Ripley). The Principal assured us that several male teachers had failed to conduct this class ; this lady however had been eminently successful. She appeared to us to be a lady of no ordinary strength of character, and one could well understand how an indolent or mis- chievous youth would quail under the lightning flash of her eye. And her pupils were not mere children. In answer to an enquiry as to the ages of those she taught, she remarked, " I have several between nine- teen and twenty, and there is one voter." It is worthy of remark that nearly all the schools are furnished with separate desks and chairs ; these can be adapted by small levers or screws to the convenience of each pupil. Crowding and its atten- dant whispering are thus avoided, and it is not improbable that this separate desk system is a very important clement of success. It \vas pleasing to observe some of these desks decorated with small bouquets of flowers, and we were told that uie pupils vied \vith each other in bringing a similar ofiering for the teachers' rostrum. Many other interesting details attracted cur attention : among other things we may m ;ntio'" leets of toned glass in some of the windows to prevent the glare of light affecting the eyes of the pupils. Lofty, well-ventilated rooms are provided, in r.hich not more than a convenient number of scholars is allowed, and everything betokened that the best is i ^11 40 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. done to ensure both comfort and success. The school is conducted by thirteen ladies and gentlemen, whose salaries for the year 1874 amounted to $14,025, or ;^2,8o5, including a salary of $2,500 (;^50o) to the Principal. The pupils in attendance numbered 431, of whom 167 were boys and 264 girls. The average age of each was close upon sixteen years, and the average daily attendance 95 per cent. The attention of pupils is not overtaxed, for in both this and the Normal School there is only one session daily, begin- ning at eight o'clock, and ending at half-past one. Before leaving the subject, we may observe that the evidence on all sides proves the care with which education is fostered by the State, and the importance attached to it by all classes of citizens throughout the Union. The district schools are plentiful, and all partake of the character attaching to the higher schools already described, though having in some cases rather defective accommodation. If a site for a new school has to be selected, it is determined on with all the care and deliberation which is bestowed in England on the site of a government or municipal building ; and the new schools are furnished with all the best modern appliances for educational purposes. There is of course a large admixture of nationalities in America. Coloured children are found in the schools sitting side by side with their white fellow students ; and we were delighted to learn that many of those we saw in the class-rooms were both industri- ous and clever. In most American cities a large German population is met with, and in answer to enquiries as to their school attendance, the following figures werr pointed out to us In the month of NIAGARA AND BUFFALO. 41 large to ring of October, 1872, the respective nationalities were re- presented in the schools as follows : German parentage 6,058 American .... 3,i34 . Irish . . . . . 2,163 Other nationalities .... 2,140 Total . . 13,495 It is only in the juvenile grades, however, that the children of German parentage predominate so largely in numbers. After the infant classes are passed they drop out more rapidly than those of any other nation- ality ; the children of American parents on the other ..and hold on steadily through the whole course of instruction, and number almost as many in the first grade as in the tenth. Among the special means of elementary instruc- tion, the evening classes are worthy of mention, and especially commendable are the measures taken throughout the Union for the careful instruction of the blind and of the deaf and dumb, the latter of whom are tavryht on an improved system, at immense cost. The ( ■■ :.r.nliness and general cheerful appearance of the sch ti A? . ; hroughout the schools we visited are also deserva , of remark and commendation. "We vvtre careful to enquire as to the various religious opinions held by the scholars, and found nearly every sect and denomination represented. The Bible is read, but as no religious dogmas are taught, no difficulty arises. ? .eading several of the reports of the Superin- tendenU of Education, we find that one great question agitating the minJ is whether education shall be compulsory or voluntary. D 42 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. In the 35th annual report of the City of Buffalo Department of Education we find the Superintendent writing : — " A compulsory system of education, reason- ably qualified or limited, is not only not in conflict with the principles of democratic government, but vigorously demanded by them. If on the one hand, every citizen in a free state of society has a right to a voice in the affairs of government, so on the other hand, society has the right to require that each one of its members shall be qualified for an intelligent expression on thost ^^^r'rs. The rights of the mass, in a democratic con inity, are just as positive as the rights of the individuals ; and democratic institutions are endangered by nothing except the failure to preserve a due balance in the exercise of these counter rights, which check one another." In the 2 1 St annual report of the Superientendent of Public Instruction of the State of New York, transmitted to the legislature, February 10, 1875, we find Mr. Nill Gilmour saying : — " The most prominent, if not the most important educational problem before the legislature and people of the State at the present time, is that presented by the question * Shall atten- dance upon the schools be made compulsory?' To study the history of compulsory school attendance we are not obliged to go back very far. Prior to 1867 no State in the Union had enacted a law for such a purpose, although the State of Massachusetts had had, since 1850, a truancy and vagrancy act, which was enforced in some localities. In 1866 the assembly of this State interrogated the Hon. Victor M. Rice, then Superintendent of Public Instruction, on this question. NIAGARA AND BUFFALO. 43 Mr. Rice submitted a carefully-prepared report, wherein he said — * I doubt the expediency of laws compelling parents and guardians to send their children and wards of a proper school age to the public schools, or to provide education for them at home, or at private schools, until the persuasive power of good teachers, commodious and comfortable school houses, and free schools, shall have been tried, and tried in vain.' " No further action was taken in regard to compul- sory education until 1 87 1, when an Act for that pur- pose was introduced into the Assembly and referred to the committee on public education. In the report of the Hon. B. Weaver, Mr. Gilmour's predecessor in office, occurs the following language : — * Our people need education in something besides the elementary branches taught in the schools. If it is desirable that they should be able to read and write in order to inform themselves so as to judge correctly, and act prudently in public affairs, it is equally important that the habit of self-control be constantly cultivated. It is perfectly consistent for a Monarchical government, which manages all its concerns by the exercise of a central power, to enforce education, although it might otherwise become as thorough and as general. That policy inculcates submission to arbitrary control. The habit of acting under command, even in matters which are proper, destroys manhood, and begets a servile disposition ; while freedom in the exercise of one great privilege might awaken a spirit of independence, and a consciousness of capacity, dangerous to potentates who claim the right to rule. w h ■! 44 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. 'But the citizens of a free State need the discipline of self government. They should understand that there is a personal interest in the willing discharge of every public duty. They must learn to take care of themselves in the matter of education, as in other respects, if they would remain their own masters. They should realize that power belongs to them, and, in addition, not only that the instruction of the schools is beneficial, but that the education which results from the practice of inquiring, and of doing voluntarily, what is essential to the intelligent exercise of their power, is also essential to its preservation. The secure foundation of a free government is not alone the pre- ference of a people, but their willingness to keep themselves prepared to administer it successfully. That disposition must be kept alive and active by constant exercise; and when it becomes so deadened that compulsion must be used instead, the spirit of freedom will have perished already, and the form will not long survive.' "The bill above referred to was discussed in the committee on public education, and was finally re- ported for consideration of the House, but was defeated in committee of the whole. " Upon the general subject of compulsory educa- tion (adds Mr. Gilmour), I have strong and well defined convictions. I am convinced that a system of compulsory attendance cannot be put into successful operation at once, nor, indeed until after some years of careful preparation, during which tim" ihe Legislature must co-operate with those charged with the execution of the school laws, to the end that ample accommoda- tion may be provided, the quality of the instruction NIAGARA AND BUFFALO. 4f imparted be improved, and proper provision be made for the care of truants and vagrants. I am also decidedly of opinion that, if we can, under a voluntary- system, closely approximate the results which we aim to reach by the enactments of a compulsory law, it will be better not to have such a law upon our Statute books. Let me briefly state what I consider defects in the present law. The ist and 2nd sections of the Act require that all children between the ages of eight L.id 14 years shall be instructed in spelling, reading, writing, English grammar, geography, and arithmetic. The law should never seem to require an impossibility. There are children in the State between the ages of eight and 14 who have not learned the alphabet, and the question has more than once been presented to me, * How are we to instruct such children in English grammar, geography, and arithmetic?' Of course, instruction in these branches cannot be given to such children, and to that extent the law must be disre- garded. The second section also absolutely prohibits the employment of any child under 14 years during the school hours of any day, unless such child can produce a certificate of attendance at school for a period of at least 14 weeks during the 52 weeks next preceding. This provision of law, if strictly enforced, would in many cases work great hardship. I do not under- estimate the value of education when I say that there ■is something of even greater importance. In every one of our large cities there are hundreds of children under the age of 14 years, who are neither truants nor vagrants, who do not, and cannot consisently, attend school. These children are employed in shops, offices, and manufacturing establishments, and to withdraw .^jjiii-ii--"- IP 46 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. them from their labours, even for so commendable a purpose as procurinB ll! 48 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. A visit to the principal criminal court of Buffalo afforded us the opportunity of witnessing the mode in which trials are conducted by a public prosecutor. The case to which we listened was one of supposed larceny, but we cannot say we were impressed with the manner or the ability of this public official. Still the system is unquestionably valuable for promoting in many instances the ends of justice, as it is well known that in England many wrong-doers escape punishment from the indisposition of their victims to become prosecutors. We observed the jury rose from their seats when charged by the presiding judge ; the latter also rose, either from custom or convenience. The manner in which he subsequently sentenced a prisoner to three years' confinement for housebreaking, struck us as being both gentle and impressive. It was pleasing to observe in both this and other courts elsewhere many colored members of the Bar. Buffalo is evidently a fairly regulated city. It has, however, a large floating population, in many instances composed of boatmen and bargemen, who have no settled habitation, but traverse the great series of inland canals and lakes, frequently evading the officers of justice, leading a miserable life on water, and a still more wretched existence on land. Their hard and hazardous employment has doubtless much to do with the formation of their character, and strenuous efforts are made by the wise and the good (as with the canal population in this country) to effect an improvement in their condition. t- , -r 'i / 41 t^-' IV. CANADA. TORONTO— OTTAWA — MONTREAL— QUEBEC. [ROM Buffalo our tour extended to the chief cities of Canada. Leaving Buffalo at 8-40, by rail, we re-crossed the Suspension Bridge, and travelled forward on the right bank of the Niagara River, casting a parting glance at the mighty Falls as we passed. The line runs in such close proximity to the edge of the precipitous cliffs overlooking the river that nervous travellers shut their eyes and " beg to be excused" ex- pending their admiration on the scenery. Arrived at Lewiston, we embark on board the steamer, and quickly passing the toy-looking forts at the mouth of the river, expend the next four hours in crossing Lake Ontario, the comfort of the voyagers being far from enhanced by a gusty wind and drizzling rain. How- ever, we found very comfortable quarters at the Queen's Hotel on landing at Toronto, and soon forgot the buffeting of adverse winds and waves. Toronto is the capital of the Province of 'Jntario, (or Upper Canada) and has a population of upwards of 70,000. The city is built at the extremity of a beautiful bay, and towards it converge five lines of railway, including the Grand Trunk, the Great Western, and other principal lines. As an indication of Canadian railway enterprise, it may be mentioned -i n i *",*;*« I Vc^^i I ! 50 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. that the returns for last year show the total paid-up capital of the Canadian railways to be $298,501,854, or upwards of ;^59,7oo,ooo. The amount paid and loaned by the Ontario Government was $1,230,904. There are a great variety of manufac- turing interests centred in Toronto, and its commercial importance is shown by the fact that the city contains fifteen banks. The streets are well laid out, and many of the buildings are exceedingly fine and imposing. It is noticeable that the principal street footpaths, which are very wide, are constructed of wood ; the reason as- signed is that stone flags cannot stand the extreme cold of Canadian winters ; hence, in most northern towns, wood is often substituted for stone, both on ac- count of its cheapness and durability. Among the fine buildings is the University, a magnificent example of Norman architecture. The city contains upwards of fifty churches and chapels ; and here we may state that, taking the whole Province of Ontario, the leli- gious beliefs of the inhabitants are numerically re- presented as follows : Church of England, 330,995 ; MeJ-hcdists, 462,264 ; Presbyterians, 356,442; Baptists, 80,630 ; Romanists, 274,162 ; other denominations, 110,358. St. James Church, in King-street, Toronto, has the highest spire in Canada, or probably in the American Continent. Not very far distant is another remarkably fine edifice, which we entered, and were impressed with its superb and elegant decorations and its magnificent organ. Previous to entering we had been informed that it was " The Church of the Me- tropolis," but having ascertained by a reference to our pocket compass that the East and West positions were not observed in the architecture, we became incredu- TORONTO-rOTTAWA. $f lous as to Its being an Episcopalian place of worship, and sought for better information. We then learnt that it was called the "Metropolitan Wesleyan Church," and that it was built for the Rev. Dr. Punshon — cer- tainly a noble tribute to his eloquence, and a grand testimony to the influence and wealth of the Wesleyan body in Canada. Toronto is favored with a splendid out-door resort in the Queen's Park, which is well situ- ated, and abounds with fine trees. It is appropriately embellished by a statue of Her Majesty, Queen Vic- toria. 1 From Toronto to Ottawa is a distance of about 270 miles. This furnished the nex* stage of our journey. We left Toronto at 6-40 a.m., per Grand Trunk Rail- way, for the more northern city. The stations on the line are few and far between, and the same may be said of the villages. A high rate of speed is never expected, while the " rolling stock " well deserves the name. The journey is seldom varied by startling incident, but in our case there was an unfortunate exception. About thirty miles from Ottawa, in the midst of a dark forest, two of the wheels of the train took fire. For- tunately a small stream of water was found near at hand, the fire was extinguished, and after about an hour's delay, our conductor was heard to utter the consolatory opinion that he "thought the wheels would about put us through." And so at length they did. We arrived at Ottawa at 7-30 p.m., and ex- perienced the pleasure of being cordially welcomed by an old and esteemed friend, Mr. Scott, the architect to the Canadian Government. 52 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. The lake route by Prescott is usually prefened by travellers to Ottawa, but as time was an object with us, and the boats at this season a little uncertain, we chose the railroad. As it turned out, our choice was a lucky one — the small conflagration on the road notwithstanding, for we afterwards heard that the steamer had been considerably delayed by rough winds. Ottawa; situated on the river of that name (the " Chaudi^re Falls" of which are deservedly famous) is the seat of the Canadian Government. Though com- paratively a new city, it contains a resident popula- lation of some 30,000 inhabitants. It is, moreover, rapidly increasing, and during the Session of Parlia- ment assumes quite a gay and fashionable appearance. Formerly the seat of Government was changeable, but the representp.cives of the three chief cities — Quebec, Montreal, and Toronto, being unable to agree as to which should become the permanent capital, the question was referred to the Queen in Council, and th'i honour allotted to Ottawa. Parliamentary buildings, with the departmental offices, were at once commenced. They are situated on a bluff of ground overlooking the river, and contain two legislative halls, one for the Scrate, the other for the House of Com- mons, both being the same size as those provided in the English Houses of Parliament for the Lords and Commons, and, like their originals, very handsomely decorated and conveniently furnished. The buildings are designed in the Italian Gothic style, and are constructed of stone. The first cost was $3,000,000, or ;^6oo,ooo. Under the able superintendence of Mr. Scott, extensive additions are now being made, and OTTAWA. 53 when completed, to^T^ether with a magnificent library containing 75,000 voiames, it will have few equals, either in point of architecture or situation. It may be interesting briefly to state that the two political parties of Canada are called respectively " Con- servatives " and " Grits." A considerable timber trade is carried on in this city. The " timber slides " are very numerous in the upper river, and it is interesting to watch tue passage of the huge rafts of hewn wood in their onward coiiise ; labourers of strong and steady nerves occasionally venture on these hazardous river craft. The lumber trade here is immense ; at ihe " sawing mills " it is marvellous to witness the dexterity with which enormous logs are dragged out of the river, and speedily cut into planks of all sizes and shapes. The shavings d^'e utilised in a novel manner for the purpose of agricultural drainage. A trench is dug in which a foot of shavings is placed, then a foot of broken stone, and on this another foot of shavings, with soil above it. This is said to be a cheap and excellent drain. A thousand hands are employed by one firm alone — and some 600 men are engaged a distance of from 500 to 700 miles up the river, felling trees in the dense forests. These are mostly of white pine, which if replanted, never flourish, but become aybridized, so that in course of time this wood v/ill j.vobably be- come exhausted. The coopering business done here is also very extensive ; we inspected one establishment where from 1,500 to 2,500 buckets and pails are turned out daily, together with 1,000 gross of boxes, made and and filled with lucifer matches, manufactured out of ■*» i| i ! I $4 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. refuse wood. Machinery of course plays an important part in this production. These trades alone give employment to great numbers of men and rhildren, many of whom are French Canadians, whose labour and intelligence are much sought after, and concerning whose habits of temperance and frugality their employers were enabled to speak in terms of high commendation. The one or two branches of industry we have mentioned will serve to indicate the various and extensive business carried on in this thriving city. The streets of Ottawa are well attended to, and the city can boast a splendid water supply. The country around is covered with scrub or bush, which gives cover for bears, deer, and lesser game. Young bear cubs are often to be seen in the market- house, and by .some their flesh is much esteemed. Agricultural labour is much needed in this part of the Dominion, and all who come appreciate the honor and good faith of the Canadian Government, and the se- curity afforded to life and property; but the great draw- back to emigrant life seems to arise from the severity c'' the winters, and this baffles to a great extent the extraordinary inducements offered by the Canadian Government. From Ottawa to Montreal, is a journey which gives the traveller a choice of two routes, either by river or rail ; but as the weather was already winterly, (October lo), snow on the ground, and the ther- mometer some 20 degrees below freezing point, we selected the cars, though the river route would have OTTAWA— MONTREAL. 55 brought us in contact with many interesting scenes, — St. Anne's, for instance, where Moore is said to have written his celebrated Canadian boat song : Faintly as tolls the evening chime, Our voices keep tune and our oars keep time ; Soon as the woods on the shore look dim We'll sing at St. Anne's our parting hymn. Row, brothers, row, the stream runs fast, The Rapids are near and the daylight's past. But poetry and river scenery may be best appre- ciated under Summer skies and genial influences ; and we did not regret our journey by rail, more par- ticularly as it afforded us the honour of a long conver- sation with the Canadian Minister of Agriculture, who gave us some interesting particulars connected with the Department under his able superintendence. By nine o'clock in the evening we had reached our desti- nation and taken up our quarters at the St. Lawrence Hall Hotel. Montreal may fairly be considered the commercial metropolis of Canada, and in all res|i(icts the city is exceedingly attractive. It has a mixed population of English and French, and the names of the streets are given in boti. languages. The first settlement, it is well known, was made by the French in 1642. In 1759, when Canada was conquered by the British, Montreal had a population of about 4000 ; this num- ber has now increased to over 1 10,000. The fertility of the soil has gained for Montreal the reputation of being " The Garden of Canada." The attention of the traveller is attracted to the number of churches and chapels. Before us is the Roman catholic church of Notre Dame, capable of containing 10,000 worshippers. It is adorned with two L •ll! 56 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. handsome towers, and is altogether a noble structure. The interior is somewhat remarkable from the fact that both the body of the church and the galleries contain the old-fashioned high-backed pews, which we were once accustoned to see in our quaint old village churches, but which have now given place in many instances to open benches or devotional chairs. The elegant new Post Office, the lofty and graceful spire of the building belonging to the Young Men's Christian Association, numerous nunneries, and many other prominent public buildings, are lost sight of as we enter Victoria Square, where our enthusiastic loyalty as Englishman is excited as we catch sight of the noble bronze statue of the Queen which adorns this splendid site. With a sudden rush of emotion we silently raise our hats to the grand old British flag — "the flag that's braved a thousand years the battle and the breeze " — and a representative of which we recogni2;e floating gaily from the summit of a neighbouring tower. It is gratifying to Englishmen to know that everywhere, and on all occasions, Americans speak well of England's gracious Queen. But nowhere in the Queen's dominion is there a a deeper attachment to the Throne and more profound loyalty to the Sovereign than in Canada. ' The names of many of the public places in Canada attest the loyalty of the inhabitants. Here at Mon- treal, we have " the Royal mount," a commanding eminence, which is now being converted into a magni- ficent park, adorned with charming villas, from which may be obtained a lovely vicA^ of the city and the surrounding country. Here again is the " Victoria " Suspension Bridge, across the St. Lawrence, the last MONTREAL — QUEBEC. $7 rivet of which was driven in by the Prince of Wales on his well-remembered visit to Canada in i860. This bridge is considered one of the most wonderful en- gineering achievements in the world. The tube through which the trains pass, rests upon 24 piers, and is about a mile and a quarter in length, the centre of the tube being about sixty feet above the summer level of the river. The necessity of great stability in the construction of this bridge is shown by the fact that in winter the piers have to meet the assaults of enormous masses of ice ; and it is calculated that the piers are capable of resisting a pressure of 70,000 tons. This bridge, which gives an uninterrupted communication between Western Canada and the United States, was constructed at a cost of nearly $7,000,000 (;{^ 1, 400,000). At Montreal, as in other Canadian and American cities, the Fire Alarm Telegraph has proved a thorough success. The City Hall contains the chief office, and from this central station there is communi- cation with about a hundred street boxes (to which the police have keys) as well as to the Church bells, several public clocks, the Observatory, the Water Works, and other public places, so that in the event of fire, an instantaneous alarm may be given. From Montreal to Quebec is a distance of about 170 miles. We left the former place at 10 p.m., pro- ceeding to Point Levi by rail, being transported thence by steam ferry to Quebec, where we arrived at eight next morning, taking up our temporary abode at the E ■ PI" w I ,! 58 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. St. Louis Hotel. The climate here is very cold, the autumn being well advanced, and we began to ex- perience an unpleasant foretaste of winter. Quebec was founded by Champlain, in 1608, on the site of an Indian village called Stadacona. It has a population of some 75,000, and is divided into two parts, called the Upper Town and Lower Town. The upper town is strongly fortified, and includes the Citadel of Cape Diamond. Quebec is said to owe its name to its French discoverers, who, on coming within sight of its cliffs, exclaimed, " Que beck }" — What rock ! It was taken by the British and Colonial forces in 1629, but restored to France in 1632 ; finally captured by Wolfe in 1759, and together vvith all the French possessions in North America, was ceded to Great Britain by the treaty of 1763. The line of fortifications enclosing the Citadel is nearly three miles in length. A most striking and magnificent view of the St. Lawrence and the lower town may be obtained from this and adjacent points ; while the appearance of the upper town, with its narrow, straggling, drowsy streets, as seen from below, is very quaint and almost phantom-like. The day after our arrival, moreover, the whole aspect of the place seemed suddenly to change ; the entire city was wrapped in a vesture of snow, and the dull, heavy-looking cliffs, as thus suddenly transformed, bore a resemblance to a glittering Alpine glacier, on which the mid-day sun poured a flood of brilliance, reflecting the forts and casemates, and pyramids of shot and shell, in the clear depths of the river below. Sleighs were quickly in re- quisition, and away we were borne to the music of merry bells, across the Plains of Abraham, past the QUEBEC. 59 monument erected on the spot where Wolfe fell vic- torious — av/ay over classic heights, near another mili- tary monument, presented in 1855 by Prince Napoleon Bonaparte, sacred to the memory of French soldiers who had fallen on the soil ; and thence back through the suburbs, which bear sad traces of the late awful fire, — down to St. John's Gate, where the old town seemed suddenly to have bestirred itself in preparation for the first instalment of wintry weather. During our stay we drove to the famous "Falls of Montmorenci," distant eight miles, and fully enjoyed our visit to this picturesque locality. We quitted the " ancient city," the snow falling heavily, on Saturday evening, at 8-30, having taken the precaution, before leaving Quebec, to secure tickets for a Pullman sleeping car; and after crossing the ferry, we lost no time in ensconsing ourselves in one of these comfortable coaches. At two the next morning we had reached Richmond, (New Hamp- shire) where, greatly to our regret, w 2 had to say " good bye " to our dear friend, Mr. Scott, who had accompanied us from Ottawa. At seven o'clock on Sunday morning, being invited to get up and dress, we found ourselves at Island Pond Station, (New Hampshire) half way between Quebec and Portland. Here we alighted, found excellent accommodation at the Island Pond Hotel, and spent a few pleasant hours in the comp::*ny of " mine host " and his family. We found this gentleman, who '., also a large farmer, particularly well informed ; a regular reader of the TiineSy and consequently well acquainted with the different phases of English politics. In the morning we attended Divine Service at the little Episcopal 6o A CENTENNIAL TOUR. Ri. *'3 m Church, where we had the privilege of listening to a thoughtful discourse from the resident clergyman — a gentleman in feeble health, and who was evidently very highly respected in the neighbourhood. It at- tracted our notice that he was assisted in the service by one of the lay members of the congregation, who read the lessons. The service altogether was of a simple but impressive character. Snow had fallen heavily ere our arrival here, and was nearly knee- deep ; the evening was wild and tempestuous, and notwithstanding the comforts of our hotel, we were not sorry, on the following morning, to leave this wintry little spot and resume our onward journey, which we did after many pressing invitations to "come again soon." Leaving the snow-clad "White Mountains" of New Hampshire behind us, we passed, with some degree of regret, into the neighbouring State of Maine ; not that we feared " being robbed of our beer," — for in this re- spect we had learnt "in w. tsovever State we were, therewith to be content." We were indiscreet enough, however, at the next restaurant station, where luncheon was served, to ask a young damsel for " beer," and she replied, with evident astonishment at our boldness, that she could only give us " hop beer ;" so, acknowledging a very pleasant smile, we raised the foaming goblet to our lips in honour of the Maine Law and — our speedy freedom therefrom. Continuing our eastward journey until we obtain a glimpse of the Atlantic Ocean, we soon find our- selves at Portland, and after changing trains at a very fine depot there, traverse a principal street of the town, and are speedily on our way south to Boston, 'y QUEBEC. 6l the capital of Massachusetts, where we arrived after a journey of 435 miles from Quebec. Of this city we purpose giving a description later on. Leaving the remarkably fine depot of the Boston and Providence Railway at 9-30 p.m, we availed ourselves of the opportunity of a night's repose in the " sleeping car," and next morning had arrived once more at New York. 62 V. J ■ t F I i' :f:|. IWlilr UP THE HUDSON. Visit to America would not be complete, if the traveller neglected the opportunity of an ex- cursion up the Hudson River. The scenery here is of the most enchanting description ; there is an exhil- arating effect, not only in the pure bracing atmosphere which sweeps over the adjoining mountains, but in the startling variety of lovely views, the consciousness of holiday enjoyment, a corresponding thirst for adven- ture and novelty, the mode of transit, ai.d the conta- gious cheerfulness of your fellow travellers. At least such was our own fortunate experience in our trip up the Hudson. Our first stage was by the Hudson River Railroad to Yonkers, seventeen miles from New York, beauti- fully situated on the Hudson River, and of which we learnt the following particulars from the unveiled advertisement inscribed on a large board at the station depot : " City of Yonkers ; population 20,000 ; 17 miles from City Hall, Gas and macadamized roads ; 18 churches ; excellent schools," &c. It is well known that the Americans are a great advertising community, and that their ingenuity in inventing means for attracting public attention is unparalleled in England. Certainly they are without any false deli- cacy in the matter ; and rather than allow any of their greater or lesser lights to remain concealed under a bushel, they will utilize any point likely to attract UP THE HUDSON. 63 the eye, by inscribing upon it. a glaring advertisement. Hence the Yonkers announcement ; and, hence, as we travel along, on some jutting rock or old snake fence, we find attention called in bold letters to the inevitable " Gargling Oil," "Helen's Babies,'' or such-like popular commodities. It is on the same principle that Pro- fessor Holloway caused the virtues of his wonderful medicines to be inscribed on the Pyramids of Egypt. Our destination from Yonkers is the celebrated Catskill Mountains. Crossing the ferry by small steamer at Catskill Station, we take our seat in a four- horse "Mountain House" coach, and start on our breezy journey. The road is exceedingly rough, and the bridges which we passed here and there looked awfully frail and treacherous ; but onward we dash, admiring the fine scenery which we pass, until, as twilight ap- proaches, we are constrained to "draw bit" at the Rip Van Winkle House, at the foot of the mountain. Yes ; here we are at the veritable "Sleepy Hollow" ! Such at least is the inscription on the flat rock close by, and travellers are called upon to connect the place with the romantic scene of the legendary Rip Van Winkle's prolonged slumbers. Whatever may be the claims of the neighbourhood to the enviable dis- tinction,, it is pleasant to give imagination play upon such a supposition, and, recalling Jefferson's splendid impersonation of the bluff hero of Irving's creation, to fancy the old Dutchman descending the mountain after his twenty years' snooze, startling the denizens of the lower world with his strange uncouth appearance and stranger revelations. Washington Irving has truly immortalized the neighbourhood. The mountain may be said to abound with legends, and in many instances w: Ill !lii !l ■iiii i: Ml' II ili' jfl ^^. V 64 A CENTF,NNIAL TOUR. they are very neatly told by the assistant guides, for the edification of visitors. But it is our object to ascend the mountain ; and after a brief stay we resume our journey, upwards and onwards. The night has now closed around us; it is pitch dark; and the strange stillness is only broken by the peculiar cry of a small night bird, and the noise and rolling of the toiling horses and the slow-moving vehicle. Suddenly there is a startling shout as we turn a sharp angle of the road, and an old man and boy in a one-horse gig just pull up in time to save themselves from the choice of a fearful collision or a fatal somersault over the adjoining precipice. All feel it to be a narrow escape, but the immediate danger passed, forward crept the horse and gig in their downward journey. " God help them," quoth our cautious driver ; " I would not drive down the mountain without lights on a night like this for a thousand dollars." Now and then, through the thick pine groves, we get a glimpse of the lights at the Mountain House which we are slowly nearing ; then all again is dark, save our own feeble carriage lamps, or where, far away below, can be discerned a trace of the village of CatskiH. A night ride of four-and-a- half hours up the mountain, then a sharp turn to the left, and we are at the Mountain House, where we are quickly registered as guests. We were fully repaid next morning for our toilsome climb, when at five o'clock we stood at an elevation of three thousand feet, with a view beneath us extending over ten thousand square miles of the valley of the Hudson, and watched the sun rise in unparalleled splendour. We saw in royal magnificence UP THE HUDSON. ^5 for The king of day Rejoicing in the cast. The lessening cloud, The kindling azure and the mountain's brow Illumed with fluid gold T,o ! now apparent all, Aslant the dew-bright earth and colored air He looks in boundless majesty abroad, ^ And sheds the shining day, that burnished plays On rocks and hills, and towers, and wandering streams, High gleaming from afar. The Catskill Mountain is quite a pleasure resort, abounding with most agreeable walks and drives, some of which bear suggestive and inviting names, — Sunset Rock on South Mountain, Moses' Rock, Druid Rocks, Boat House and .North Lake, Lovers' Retreat, Artist's Rock, The Bear's Den, Jacob's Ladder, Newman's Lodge (named after the Rev. Newman Hall, of London), Wild Cat Ravine, Featherbed Hill, &c. The Kaaterskill Falls, amid a noble amphitheatre of rock, plunge over the 70 feet of projecting roofing to the natural cavern beneath, a distance of 180 feet. It then passes a few yards over a smooth flat rock and takes another leap into the Clove. Immense boulders are found on the rocks ; two very celebrated ones, with a fissure between them, are named the " Lemon Squeezer." Red stars and squares are painted on the trees here and there, to serve as guide posts to the several spots of interest. There are a few good hotels and boarding houses ; and we can well imagine it to be a famous place for the various attractions of hotel life and out-door enjoyment, rendered especially invigorating by the exhilarating effects of the mountain air and the ex- ercise it induces. We were about the last visitors of the season, and shortly after our departure the New $ 1! !. h ; ■111 M ii;:i III 66 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. Vori' Herald announced that "snow had fallen on the Catskills." The " Albany Boats," which run on the Hudson river, have a world-wide celebrity, and justly may the Americans be proud of the floating palaces on this and the Fall River route. We found the river steamer crowded at the ferry with Centennial travellers. In fact, the crowds, both by river and rail, were in them- selves an astonishing sight. From all parts of the wide continent, people had come to " do the Exhi- bition ; " and their patience was as remarkable as their curiosity. We never wish to see happier, better- tempered, or better-behaved crowds of excursionists than those we came across during our Centennial Tour. The Hudson was called by the Spaniards the River of the Mountains, and this name is suggestive of its grand surroundings. In its short course of 250 miles from the Wilderness to the sea, it takes in 50 miles of the Adirondacks, 30 miles of the Catskills, 20 miles of the Highlands, and 15 miles of the Palisades. The approach to the Highlands is exceedingly beauti- ful, and as ^^e near West Point it is altogether lovely. Arrived at West Point, we for the first time obtain a glimpse of military life in America. West Point was suggested by Washington as the most eligible situation for a military academy, and it is now one of the most celebrated places of training for military cadets. The Academy buildings and the parade ground occupy a fine plateau at a considerable eleva- tion from the river. The spacious parade ground, almost as level as a billiard -table, is surrounded by the various establishment buildings, including officer's UP THE HUDSON. ''(57 quarters, the riding school, libraiy, chapel, cadet bar- racks, &c. Near the flagstaff we observed some curious military relics, including a fine collection of old cannon, shells, chains, and trophies of past struggles, the whole, with their surroundings, suggest- ing " tales of iron wars" and learned talk Of sallies and retires ; of trenches, tents, Of palisadoes, pontiers, parapets ; Of basilisks of cannon, culverin ; Of prisoners ransom, and of soldiers slain, And all the currents of a heady fight. The English visito*. is shown part of a chain said to have been stretched across the river to check the ad- vance of the British Fleet. Those were primitive times in naval warfare. The chain of the past century- is now substituted by the death-dealing torpedo. Instead of being brought honestly to bay by a cu.b of iron such as that treasured at West Point, an enemy's ships have to run the fearful risks of the stealthy and treacherors explosive minnows, whose capacity is such as to swallow up a whale, or destroy with ease the most complete iron-clad. • In the Library and Museum at West Point are to found the victorious " stars and stripes " carried through the late war, tattered and frayed with the scourge of civil strife. The visitor is constantly reminded that men famous in history received here their military education. General Grant, the successful commander of the Northern forces, and the late General Lee, who so gallantly led the army of the South, were pupils here together; and though Fate had called the fellow-pupils to face trach other at the head of opposing armies, it is noteworthy, as a mark of their own worthiness, and of the sterling principles !■[ ii It t :i;|ii; f 1 ; i ' 1' i 68 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. in which they were educated, that even amid the blinding passions of war, they always evinced a marked respect for each other. The cadets, whom we frequently saw both at cavalry and infantry drill, appeared to be respectable and intelligent young men, whilst the officers were evidently excellent disciplin- arians, and very polite and obliging to all who had occasion to address them. Every facility is afforded to visitors to inspect the principal objects of interest at the Academy, and during the summer months the whole place is rendered exceedingly attractive. Close by the Academy is Kosciusko's garden, so called after the celebrated Polish hero of that name, who fell whilst fighting for the Americans. He was a man ever ready to do battle for free institutions, acting on the sublime motto of the old Roman orator, " Where Liberty is, t/iere is my country." ' Our residence at West Point (Cozzens) is con- sidered one of the best appointed summer hotels in the country. The grounds are spacious and adorned with fine trees, and the view from the verandahs is so extensive as to embrace the principal features of the Hudson Highlands. The grounds also contain very trim little detached villas and cottages ; these are mostly rented during the season by families, the principal members of which are often to be found seated at the table d'hote or among the drawing room circle in the evening, being thus enabled to combine pleasant society and hotel facilities with family retirement and domestic comfort. To us, this seemed a novel, but at the same time a very convenient arrangement. Another novelty to the Englishman is the extent of provision made for the recreation of the guests ; itt the UP THE HUDSON. 69 elegantly fitted up bowling alley, which is quite an American institution, even ladies delight to join in the game, and not unfrequently succeed in making " a spare." • We resume our trip down the Hudson in the "Mary Powell," a favourite river steamer, and enjoy a de- lightful sail through the Highlands. Many are the pret<-" rivers in the old country ; the Rhine and the Danube, too, have beauties peculiarly their own ; but notwithstanding the legendary and poetical asso- ciations of the former, we think the Hudson well worthy the proud appellation of the Queen of Rivers; certainly in the neighbourhood of the Highlands we have seen nothing to compare with its magnificent scenery. The home of Mr? Warner, the author of " Queechy " and " The Wide Wide World," is here pointed out to us. Of the latter, 40,000 copies were sold in the United States alone. The neighbourhood is rich in literary associations, for here, peeping out of a beautiful little nook, can be detected the house formerly occupied by Washington Irving. As we approach the " Palisades," we come upon a series of bold jutting rocks, of which those at Dovedale or on the Bakewell-road afford some idea ; and ere long palatial houses begin to vie with each other in com- manding positions and variety of architecture. These mostly belong to the merchant princes of New York, who not only delight in splendid houses, but expend vast sums of money in " English gardens," which are said to contain not only the softest turf but the rarest plants and flowers obtainable. The return journey from " the Highlands " ter- minates our delightful acquaintance with the Hudson ; 70 ■ A CENTENNIAL TOUR. but as we leave the steamer at New York, we venture to hope that some of our kindred and friends may one day enjoy a similar pleasure, to which in our case fine weather G^ood company, as well as the unrivalled scenery, so much contributed. * ',.U(l ture may case tiled f 71 VI. PHILADELPHIA AND THE EXHIBITION. Philadelphia, the second city in the Union in point of population, and the largest in area, was laid out by Wil''-^ m Penn, in 1682. It has to-day, in round numbers,a population of 800,000, living in 1 30,000 dwellings, 40 per cent, of which are provided with a bath, a sanitary fact deserviug of mention, especially when we remember that the death-rate of the city is only 20 per thousand. It has 1000 miles of streets and roads, more than half of which are paved, and be- neath them run 140 miles of sewers, upwards of 600 miles of gas mains, and nearly as many of water pipes. It has 220 miles of street railways, running 2000 pas- senger cars ; and 400 public schools, with over 1600 teachers and more than 8000 pupils. Most of the streets are named after native trees ; thus, we have vine, mulberry, chestnut, walnut, and other streets of horticultural signification. Other streets intersecting these are known by their numbers only. Philadelphia is the cheapest city in the Union as regards house rent ; indeed comfortable homes are said to be Philadelphia's greatest pride, and every thrifty mechanic or labouier of moderate means can enjoy there a luxury not often found in great cities, a house to himself It is said to be a '' city of marble," and right worthily is it entitled to this distinction. White polished marble structures, including churches, public buildings, warehouses, stores, and private "4 (1 m 1 jj! il i! ''M: '11:^ y2 " . A CENTENNIAL TOUR. houses, abound on every hand, and in many instances the sculptor's art is displayed to give to these com- mandiii^ structures appropriate finish and ornament. Flights uf broad marble steps are quite common, whilst in the beautiful pressed-brick houses of which America offers so many elegant examples, marble is plentifully introduced in the various external mould- ings, facings, and other adornments. The clearest glass is used for windows, with inside Venetian blinds of maple, walnut, and other choice woods, and the effect altogether is very neat and elegant — different to anything in street architecture to be found elsewhere. Market Street is the great business centre. This was the High Street of Penn, but has of course been considerably altered since the days of the venerated Founder of the city. It is one hundred feet wide, and like Broad Streec, runs in a perfectly straight line from end to end of the city. A remarlcable tree was blown down here in 1810, which had stood for more than a century. The citizens had sat under its branches, and whole congregations had worshipped under its shade. A little insignificant monument now covers the spot whereon stood this grand old elm, under which Penn made his celebrated treaty with the Indians, " the only treaty ratified without an oath, and the only one never broken." It might be advantageous if a like form of treaty were resorted to again ; if successful, it would save the Americans enormous sums of money and many valuable lives, and would protect the poor Indians from untold miseries and reckless injustice. It is all very well for either America or Europe to hold forth in one hand the gospel of peace, but it is hardly reconcileable with I; PHILADELPHIA AND THE EXHIBITION. 73 consistency or Christianity that she should carry the sword of destruction and extermination in the other. We question if ever America will settle her disputes with the Indians until she appoints a board of arbitration, composed of her most Christian citizens, whose word and promise the Indians will have cause to respect, and whose action shall be endorsed by the universal voice of the community. In the Centennial year, above all others, it may well be imagined that the greatest interest would centre about every relic of the national Independence. Hence, there is no difficulty in accounting for the crowds which clustered around Independence Hall, which is still preserved, and teems with objects of historic interest. It was here that the Declaration of Independence was finally signed, July 1776 ; where Hancock, who signed his name so that " John Bull might see it without spectacles," thought proper to re- mind members of the necessity of hanging together ; to which, tradition relates, Dr. Franklin made the ready reply, " Yes, we must all hang together, or else, most assuredly, we shall all hang separately." This building, during our visit, was daily and nightly crowded with a multitude bent on inspecting any and every article contained in this, the birth-place of their country's liberty. From the steps leading into Inde- pendence Square the Declaration was read to the people, whilst the Old Liberty Bell, which now rests in state in the Entrance Hall, rung out " Liberty throughout all the land to all the inhabitants thereof"; but alas! not until 1862, was that command fully obeyed, and the death-knell of slavery finally rung. The old Hall abounds with interesting relics, F . I' an lii! mw\ • . A CENTENNIAL TOUR. quaint looking furniture used by William Penn and his worthy associates, and numberless articles worn or owned by the immortal Washington, together with various documents bearing the signatures of the fathers and founders of this mighty republic. In the grave-yard of Christ Church there is another shrine ; there the visitor looks down upon a plain slab, which, in accordance with his wishes, covers all that remains of Benjamin Franklin and his wife. A new Town Hall and Post Office are in course of erection in this city, and a handsome Masonic Hall has just been completed at immense cost. This edifice is built of granite and has a tower 230 feet high. The stones were all dressed at the quarry, and brought to the structure ready to be raised at once to their place, as was the case in the building of its great prototype. King Solomon's temple, of which it is written : " There was neither hammer nor axe nor any tool of iron heard in the house, while it was in building." The brethren of the craft may be interested to learn that there are nine lodge-rooms, library, &c. and all necessary rooms, within the building, and that the colossal edifice is entirely devoted to Masonic uses. The massive marble edifice of the Young Men's Christian Association is another of those which de- mand attention, and its erection speaks well for the successful pleading of Messrs. Moody and Sankey, by whom the funds were principally raised. A noble and commanding structure also is the University of Penn- sylvania, built of serpentine marble. The trustees of this institution have lately added a noble building for the accommodation of the DepartmentTof Science and PHILADELPHIA AND THE EXHIBITION. 75 Art ; it occupies more than six ac ^s of land, and is not only one of the largest but the best arranged of college buildings in the States. A distinct Faculty presides over each of the departments. A large build- ing has also been added for the Department of Medi- cine, and adjoining this is a spacious hospital which will accommodate over 150 inmates, in addition to private rooms for wealthy patients. We are not yet familiar in England with Safe Deposit Companies, though happily they are now being introduced into this country, and will doubtless be welcomed with satisfaction by business men. But in America these companies are flourishing, and they, along with the banks, appear to command some of the best city sites. That is the case in Philadelphia, where there are some very fine buildings devoted to the safe custody of the valuable property entrusted to the Society by the members, for better security. The re- sponsibility of mercantile men is thus greatly lessened, and the danger of burglars and thieves reduced to a minimum. The museum of the Academy of Natural Sciences, at present located in an unpretentious looking build- ing, contains a very valuable collection. In addition to a library of upwards of 23,000 volumes, there are more than 25,000 specimens, representing every de- partment of zoology, geology and botany, together with an immense collection of birds and shells. Among the other public institutions worthy of notice, is the School of Design for Women, founded by a lady for the purpose of giving gratuitous instruction to women, in all manner of designs for mechanical art. The public fountains also deserve a word. Up to the 1 w I i 76 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. end of 1 874, seventy-three fountains had been erected in the city, by the Philadelphia Fountain Society ; at these it is estimated that upwards of 35,000 persons and 13,000 horses drink in the course of every day; and who can estimate the comfort thus dispensed to thirsty man and suffering beasts ! The first stone fountain erected by the Philadelphia Fountain Society is that which stands outside a square near Seventh Street. An extensive building which we noticed in course of erection, is intended for new law courts and public offices ; it is estimated that it will take ten years to complete and will cost not less than ten million dollars (;^2, 000,000). An indication not only of the wealth, but of the provident habits of the work- ing classes, was pointed out to us in a Savings Fund Society, established in 18 16. After paying working expenses, the balance is divided pro rata among the depositors, of whom there are about 40,000, and their united deposits exceed two millions sterling. These facts may serve to give the reader some idea of the character and extent of historically the foremost of American cities. But interesting as the city is in itself, both from its past associations and its present proud position of affluence and elegance, it was rendered /rt:^ excellence the great national metropolis, towards which Ameri- cans from all parts of the Union flocked with feelings of curiosity and pride, as the" seat of the Great Centennial Exposition. Fairmount Park, in which the exhibition buildings were erected, is over 2,800 acres in extent, and included within this vast domain is a charming variety of hill and dale, leafy woodland and verdant slopes, III PHILADELPHIA AND THE EXHIBITION. yy adorned with monuments and statuary, while the river Schuylkill, which for a length of five miles is laid under tribute for the water supply of Philadelphia, flows through the park under ornamental bridges and amid scenes < f landscape gardening of surpassing loveliness. Some idea of the extent of the park may be formed by comparing it with others which are well known. The Windsor Great Park, for instance, is 3,500 acres; the Bois de Bouloj^ le, 2,158; the Phcenix Park, Dublin, 1,752 ; the Central Park, New York, 862 ; and Hyde Park, London, 389. About 450 acres of the magnificent Fairmount Park were devoted to the exhibition buildings and grounds ; and by the aid of a quarter-mile railroad track, the Pennsylvania Railroad Company were able to set down the products of all the western and southern States under the roofs of the buildings, in the very cars in which they were first packed, while goods arriving from the Atlantic ports were unloaded on the Schuylkill within sight of their destination ; so that there was probably very little more trouble experi- enced in the transit of articles from California or Japan than in conveying heavy articles from the manufactories of Philadelphia itself The Exhibition buildings were on an enormous scale ; indeed it seems difficult for Americans to limit their ideas, and their immense continent affords them every facility for the full enjoyment of their natural taste. There were five principal buildings, viz., the Main Exhibition Building, a third of a mile in length, and almost a quarter of a mile wide, or in other words, covering an area of about twenty acres ; the Machinery Hall, covering upwards of fourteen f 11 li II 78 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. acres ; the Memorial Hall, or Art Gallery, which remains as a permanent memento of the great Ex- hibition ; the Horticultural Hall, also a permanent building ; and the Agricultural Hall, extending over ten acres. To begin with the Main Building. This, like the palace at Sydenham, was constructed principally of iron and glass, in which was exhibited every descrip- tion of manufacture from all parts of the world. If we venture to name a few articles it can only be a selection at random : — organs and harps ; tapestry and crockery ; earthenware and flowers ; furniture and jewellery; silks and furs; needlework from South Kensington ; bronzes and satins from Japan ; carved and ivory woods from China ; wool from Australia ; something good from all the English Colonies ; whilst Ireland might well feel proud of the various specimens of her manufacturing industry. Russia was noticeable for very rare and exquisite gold and bronze orna- ments. Germany for big guns, educational books and aids, and musical instruments ; France for Sevres china, gloves, and glass ; Belgium for lace and church furniture. Austria contributed a few warlike imple- ments — guns and sabres ; but was evidently too tired with her own late exhibition to bestir herself further. Whatever England sent to the Exhibition was excellent ; the products of the Staffordshire Potteries were especially beautiful ; and the household furniture exhibited not only great beauty of design, but the enviable qualities of utility and durability. English carriages and harness were also highly commendable. America took the lead in jewellery, bijouterie, precious stones, watches, fire arms, and articles of household PHILADELPHIA AND THE EXHIBITION. 79 economy ; and whatever other objects came from the various outlying States, evinced a commendable, but somewhat timid, attempt to imitate the skill of their European ancestors. The Machinery Hall was a most important feature of the exhibition, and presented a very animated ap- pearance. Machinery of all kinds, developed up to the highest point to which human ingenuity has yet reached, was busily in motion, achieving all kinds of extraordinary results, and rivetting the attention of vast crowds of admiring spectators. A giant engine in the centre of the department was the controlling power of a system of shafting and wheels which set all its attendant satellites in motion. England sent some splendid specimens, prominent among which the Wal- ter Printing Press, from the Times office, may be men- tioned as an object of great curiosity and admiration. The American telegraph instruments were marvels of perfection, and their specimens of railroad locomotives and marine engines, models of excellent workmanship. Very fine specimens of machinery were also exhibited by Belgium and Russi- ; but perhaps the most highly finished and elaborate contributions in this depart- ment were the American steam fire engines ; and, considering the frequent requirements for fire-ex- tinguishing apparatus in that country, and the immense sacrifice of life and property which has taken place, it is not surprising that special attention should be directed to the mechanical perfection of these useful appliances. The Memorial Hall, an imposing structure of granite, has cost the State of Pennsylvania and the city of Philadelphia, a million and a half dollars. It 8c A CENTENNIAL TOUR. covers an c.cre and a half of ground, and with a view to the priceless value of its art treasures, has been built throughout of stone and iron, so as to be entirely fire- proof. This chaste and elegant building contained a fine collection of pictures and statuary. The Ameri- cans excelled in the latter, though, of course, they were eclipsed here and there by the sculptors of Italy. Among the favourite works of the latter, one which created a sensation was a statuette called "The Forced Prayer" — a youth performing his devotions under parental compulsion. This exquisite production, we are informed, has since been purchased by the Ameri- ran nation. The different schools of European pair.ters sent their contributions ; the United States artists exhibited some interesting landscapes, and two or three works by Hill, one of which pourtrayed a scene in the famed Yosemitc Valley, were deserving of great praise. The English artists, however, bore away the palm ; a id we were interested to observe how, in this great Republican nation, the people crowded round the celebrated Court picture of Haytcr, representing the Marriage of the Prince and Princess of Wales in St George's Chapel. Of the Horticultural Hall, we need only say that it was filled v^ ith tropical plants and flowers ; but to the English visitor, accustomed to the palm houses of Kew and Chritsworth, it afforded but little special interest. The products of the American soil denote an indescribable plenty, which was abundantly exem- plified ill the Agricultural Hall ; everything here appeared in great profusion. The hunting grounds of the P'ar West sent examples of horns, hoofs, and PHILADELPHIA AND THE EXHIBITION. 8i we ind in nd skins of animals innumerable : some of the hides were sfuffed, and we specially noticed two great hogs, one cf which, 21 months old, when alive, weighed 1307!^. There were gross upon gross of canistered meats and fruits ; and the produce of California included gr?pes and pears of the most df'licious flavour and quality. Hogsheads of native wine seemed almost as plentiful as barrels of nuts and apples ; bottles of champagne and other sparkling wines, together with preserved fruits and pickles, were arranged in l.tntastic shapes, whilst tall pyramids of potatoes, onions, turnips, beet, Indian corn, grain, sacks of wheat, flour, meal, and the like,, met the eye in every direction. Texas and Colorado had a special display, and exhibited some of the finest grain and grasses known to be produced. The various agricultural implements were displayed to great advantage, and it was evident that many a country- man from a distant State here beheld for the first time the very implement he was in need of There seemed to be many of recent invention, and amongst the most extraordinary was a sheaf-binder. Sheaves were bound by it- by means of a wire coil with perfect precision and gre; t rapidity, and we observed crowds of farmers 'Ound this truly ingenious machme, which was said to be the greatest novelty in the department. A " Women's Pavilion," a large circular building, fitted up for the exhibition of works of feminine skill, was well filled with the handicraft of clever and accomplished women. Sculpture, painting, needle- work, useful and ornamental household articles, fancy work of every description, were found here in endless profusion, and inspected by large crowds of delighted admirers. The v;omen of the United States, Great 82 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. Britain, Canada, France, Italy, Sweden and Norway, &c., were all well represented by contributions. The spacious grounds were adorned with smart buildings, in which were located the resident Connmis- sioners and officers of the different countries ; all were in some sense emblematical of the respective nation- alities. " St. George's Hall," the head quarters of the British commissioner, was a structure painted black and white, after the manner of the old Cheshire manor houses. Besides these national tenements, the different State buildings were exceedingly attractive. In these a register was kept so that visitors might be enabled to find their friends ; in addition to all these was a Turkish cafe, a Moorish villa, a Canadian log house, a New England farmer's home, in the style of a hundred years ago; Cook and Sons' world's ticket office, and numerous other buildings of greater or less dimensions. Around the whole ground locomotive trains travelled every few minutes, stopping at certain stations convenient to the entrances of the principal buildings. On several days 150,000 to 170,000 people were present in the Exhibition buildings, and we remember the great " Ohio day," when the present President — Governor Hayes, received the congratulations and good wishes of the citizens of ili .t interesting State. Though the buildings were not nearly so thronged as on the " Pennsylvania day," yet the occasion had an interest peculiarly its own. Apart from the grand display of the Exhibition itself, it was most interesting to notice the character- istics and peculiarities of the endless variety of visitors. PHILADELPHIA AND THE EXHIBITION. |g From every part of the Rej^ubHc they had come. The citizens of Salt Lake, and the New Englanders were very noticeable ; whilst the " Shakers," and mem- bers of the " peculiar people," were at once recognir.ed by their singular costume. You now and then dropped on a group of the Society of Friends, enveloped in the old fashioned coat collars and coal-scuttle bonnets, and wearing an equanimity of expression which had almost a tranquillizing effect on those arourd. Every object had a beholder; and a few good-tem- pered massive-looking police officers controlled the crowd with perfect ease. The American police force is well organized ; iv consists of men of large stature and great intelligence. They are remarkably shrewd and civil. On one of our visits to the Exhibition there was a proces- sion of the different professions and trades of New York. A friend with us wished to affix a distinguish- ing badge to his coat, and accosting a policeman, said — " could you oblige me with a pin r " I haven't one," replied he, " but guess I've seen one somewhere on my beat," and the observant officer quickly discovered the pin in question and offered it to our friend with supreme satisfaction. There was a good deal at times to try the temper of these men — all sorts of stupid questions were asked them, and we were reminded by some questions we heard, of the old lady at the Art Treasures Exhibition at Manchester, who, after sitting very quietly for some time, called a policemen to her and asked him " when the exhibition was going to be- gin > " But in the Bowery of New York, and the gambling dens of the large cities, the police not only require all their caution and vigilance, but have ■.'5ii w f ilill! 1'i I' 1|> 84 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. also to exercise an amount of courage and bravery second only to that of a soldier on the field of battle. We have been asked our opinion of the Great Centennial Exhibition as a whole, but we confess to some degree of difficulty in accurately expressing it. The great extent of the Exhibition excited our admiration, and the endless variety of the objects exhibited, our astonishment. What most impressed us was the proof given of the immense resources of the country. This was shewn in the productions of the soil, the implements of husbandry, and the specimens of manufacturing machinery. Scarcity of labour has evidently given birth to an endless variety of labour- saving machines, which demonstrate in a practical form a mighty source of wealth. Canada contributed many excellent exhibits, and in agricultural produce received, as she deserved, very high commendation. The denizens of the great American continent were for the first time brought together ; for until now the dwellers in the far West and distant East, had scarcely heard of each other's productions, much less formed an accurate opinion of each other's capabilities. But the magnificent display which greeted the eyes of so many wondering thousands will doubtless open up new fields of enterprise and new visions of wealth, whi.h will stimulate the educated citizens of America to deeds of activity and success, beyc ud whatever- has distinguished them in the brilliant records of the past. VII. WASHINGTON AND ITS ENVIRONS. Washington is reached bv a six or seven hours' railway ride from Philadelphia, 'via Wilmington and Baltimore. The locomotive is not allowed to traverse some of the principal business thoroughfares of the latter city, so some twelve or fifteen mules of immense size are made to do duty for the engine, and the cars are thus drawn over the tram track to the Southern depot. From this point we dash along through a beautiful country, and across the Susquehanna and other rivers, of a width somewhat surprising to an Englishman. On completing our r'de of 127 miles, and emerging from the Washington depot, we are nearly deafened by the vociferous shouting of omnibus and coach proprietors, each anxious to find the traveller a seat. We ah'ght at Williard's hotel, and are heartily glad to exchange the noisy streets of Philadelphia, with the stili noiser quadrangle of the Centennial hotel, for the dignified repose of the metropolitan city. Washington is situated upon the Potomac, the broadest river in the Union, and also one of the most beautiful. Previous to the location of the seat of Government at this place, there was not even a village where the city now stretches its broad avenues. Its present population is 150,000. The grandeur of the plan oi the city, and the distances of the public h ki i: 1 1 1. 1 r Ir. ^ ! f 'i li 86 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. edifices from each other, have caused it to be known as the " city of distances." Trees, which lend such a charm to most American cities, have plenty of room here to develop their spreading branches, and the effect produced, together with a delightful temper- ature, is exceedingly acceptable and refreshing. The Capitol holds a noble and commanding situa- tion on what is known as " Capitol Hill." It is a magnificent pile of white marble, of Corinthian archi- tecture, elaborately finished, and surmounted by a dome 241 feet above the top of the building, or only four feet less than the altitude of St. Paul's. The material of the dome is cast iron, and the entire roof is of copper. The Rotunda is 96 feet in diameter, and 180 feet high to the canopy, which is 65 feet in diameter. It is adorned with beautiful frescoes, whilst the circular side- walls contain historical paintings by American artists. Among others we noticed "De Soto's Discovery of the Mississippi," by Powell, and the " Embarcation of the Pilgrims from Holland, for the wilds of America, in the hope of finding there religious liberty." In the Rotunda we also observed some very fine statuary, and could not refrain from lingering to contemplate the life-like expression portrayed in the fine repre- sentations, both in the bust and statue, of Abraham Lincoln. All public buildings abound with portraits of General Washington, the first President of the United States, and here in a panel of a bronze door we see a representation of Washington laying the corner stone of the new Capitol, in 1793. This door was the work of the lamented Crawford ; its weight is i4,ooolbs., and the cost of its construction over £1 i,cxx). WASHINGTON AND ITS ENVIRONS. 87 Passing through this door, we emerge upon the portico of the Senate wing, the tympanum of the pediment of which is filled with sculpture by Crawford, who en- deavoured to represent in a single group the history and condition of the United States. In the centre stands the figure of America, holding in her right hand some laurel wreaths, which she offers as a reward to those of her citizens who have justly earned such honors ; she is supported by the Eagle and by the rising Sun, typical of the strength and youth of the nation. On the right are the emblems of civilization and progress. The soldier stands with his hand ready to defend ; the merchant with his hand on the globe to advance commerce; the youth, from the public school, comes ready to serve his country and promote her industry by educated application to trade, to manu- factures, to diplomacy, or to arms ; the teacher in- structs the youth ; the mechanic rests from his labour between hammer and wheel, and occupies his place between the emblems of Agriculture and Commerce and Public Instruction and Employnent. On the left hand the conquest of the wilderness and the savage are presented ; the pioneer levels the forest ; the youthful hunter, loaded with game, looks askance at the clearing of the new settler ; the Indian warrior, in an attitude of deepest despondency, contemplates and laments the gradual extinction of his race, and his wife and child recline behind him and separate him from the grave, which here is typical of the end of an inferior race, which is giving place to culture and edu- cation in a higher order of beings. This is thought by many to be one of the greatest works of Crawford, and it is certainly a most artistic achievement. f^ V :i- ^ ■Vi if 88 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. ill X The Senate Chamber and the Hall of Represen- tatives are both very large and well adapted to their purpose. Each contains a " Ladies' Gallery " well placed, with a full view of the Assembly, and totally different in this respect from the gilded cage or so- called Ladies' Gallery of the British House of Com- mons, a description of which causes American ladies no little amusement. Another bronze door, said to be the most magnificent work of the kind in the world, is ornamented with a symbolical history of " Columbus and his Discoveries," in high relief; this door opens into the main portico. Here we find a beautiful group below the pediment representing the Genius of America. Close by is the statue of "Peace." The latter is represented in the form of a beautiful maiden, who extends the olive branch lo "War," of which there is a representation on the opposite side, in grim contrast with the figure of the sweet-voiced maiden — By whose wide tie the kindred sons of men Like brothers live, in amity combined And imsuspicious faith ; while honest toil Gives every joy, and to those joys a right, Which idle barbarous rapine but usurps. Much has been said as to the objectionable smok- ing propensities of the Americans, but those vho make these charges are greatly misinformed, at any rate as to the habits of American polite society. We may call attention to a notice which met our eye in rambling over the building of which we have been speaking. It might be copied with effect in some places in England : — " Gentlemen tut// not, and others MUST not smoke." We may confess our surprise, after what we had heard, at finding smoking in WASHINGTON AND ITS ENVIRONS. 89 America kept within such mannerly bounds. We were quite prepared to expect that the inherent politeness of the Americans would prevent them from smoking, unless by permission or invitation, in the presence of the fair sex, but at the same time we had been led to believe that the cigar was nearly always permissable. Our opinion, however, suffered correction. Everywhere we discovered a well-regulated self- command in the national habit. It may be matter of regret to Englishmen that American cigars are so ex- pensive, and to English taste so inferior; this arises, we were told, from their being smoked so very "green," — a fresh or new cigar being particularly appreciated by American smokers. The habit of chewing i-^^ very prevalent in America, though not so easy of detection as in this country ; this nauseous self-indulgence often necessitates the presence of cuspidores in the best rooms of a public or private building, many of which are so chaste and pretty in appearance that they seem more fitted to receive an elegant plant or a bouquet of liowers. One little fact is instructive as shewing not only the extent of smoking habits in the States, but the value to be attached to little things. The Germans of New York have an organization for collecting the ends of cigars, and the produce of their sale, for re-manufacture into smoking mixtures and snuff, supports a charitable institution in the " Father- land." Among the public works and institutions which we visited, was the Navy Yard at Washington, but it happened that at the time there was little or no ship-building in progress ; and we were somewhat disappointed with what we saw. We were afterwards G .1 'I 90 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. told that some of the other government yards were considered superior. About the centre of the city- may be seen a fine building and ample grounds, devoted to the Department of Agriculture. Here amongst other things are shown the different produc- tions of the United States, and the fullest information is recorded as to how they are affected by the climate ; the properties of the soil ; the animals, birds, and insects to be found in the different parts, and other facts of primary importance to agriculturists and settlers. The city also contains an Army Medical Museum, which we were told " no medical man should neglect to visit." The " Patent Office," in the Doric style of architecture, is of majestic proportions. The " Treasury Department " and new State buildings for the War and Navy Offices, are also very fine. Situated close to the Executive Mansion, or " White House," is a notable building — the official residence of the President, who here weekly receives visitors. We were politely invited to inspect some of the rooms, but were more pleased with the charming view from the windows than with anything the rooms contained, though some of the family apartments are decorated with great taste and represent the elegant attractions of an American mansion. It is understood that President Grant and his amiable wife and children cultivate the virtues and charms of home life, and that in their private .relations they are distinguished by the same straightforward honesty, high principle, and unassuming dignity which so eminently mark the General's public career. A pleasant two or three hours' trip in the little steamer " Arrow," over the placid waters of the til the We ,but n the Lined, rated tions that dren that Y the and the little the WASHINGTON AND ITS ENVIRONS. 91 Potomac, brought us, one warm and sunny October morning, opposite the marble sarcophagus in which repose the venerated remains of General Washington. Adjoining is the house formerly occupied by this distinguished General and Father of his country. The house and grounds, which are the property of the Mount Vernon Ladies' Association of the Union, are beautifully situated, and abound with relics of Washington and his consort. It is difficult for those who have not witnessed it, to form a correct idea of the depth of veneration displayed in America for the memory of George Washington. We have seen shrines in other lands, and witnessed the devotion of pilgrim worshippers, but we shall never forget the scene we witnessed at the tomb of Washington on this occasion, and had previously no adequate idea of the intense love of the American people for the pioneer of their country's liberty. Some five or six hundred of his countrymen and countrywomen — many from far-off corners of the United States, had assem- bled here on the occasion of our visit ; and to see some of these massive men and beautiful women bow their heads and bedew his tomb with tears of gratitude and loyalty, could but impress the spectator as being an eloquent though silent tribute to exalted patriotism and worth. On our pleasant sail back we made a brief call at Alexandria, a commercial town of considerable im- portance. Here it was that some of the early settlers lived, and here, in the memorable struggle which com- menced in i860, the Confederate flag was first hoisted. The Aqueduct Bridge at Georgetown was an ob- ject of interest, for over it passed the bulk of the ^>. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 Li .1' m 1 2.5 li L8 1.25 1.4 1.6 =ssi; < 6" — ► ^ <^ /^ % c*. cf^ #.> *;. y^ ' 'I ■M I » I .94 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. together to transact their own business. Here at Washington wc observed that every convenience is afforded to farmers, — dressing rooms, lavatories, dining and refreshment rooms, are all provided by the Market Company, together with stables, wagon houses, and other necessary outbuildings adjoining. The butter and milk met with at hotels in the dif- ferent dairy States, are of excellent quality ; whilst poultry is plentiful, and not much inferior in quality to the /^«/i?/ of France. The farm produce of Pennsylvania is deservedly famed, and it is pleasant to ride through the well- tilled and neatly-kept farms. Now and then we get quite a bit of English rural scenery. What most we miss are the beautiful hedge-rows and singing birds, for though Nature has given beautiful plumage to the American birds, few, if any, display gift of song. The English sparrow has been acclimatised and is a general favorite, hopping about just as impudently as he is accustomed to do at home. All small birds are well cared for, and these kind people have a pretty custom of erecting bird-cotes around their dwellings, and supplying their feathered visitors with food and water during the winter months. We left Washington after five days' pleasant so- journ, regretting much that we could not prolong our stay in this magnificent city. It has every appearance of a Capital, and will be greatly improved when the improvements now in progress are completed. A word as to the colored population ; in the streets of Washington they are somewhat numerous, and many of them are fine specimens of their race. " Uncle Tom's Cabin," we may remark, was a very so- our ance the WASHINGTON AND ITS ENVIRONS. 95 popular drama at the Opera House during the period of our visit. Some of the colored men seem to think the world of England, and well they may! for she deserves their gratitude. Apropos of the simplicity of the negro character, we were amused with a story told by one of their number. A darkey who visited London, on arriving at Euston station, was hurried forward to his destina- tion in a hansom cab, which to Sambo was quite a novelty. To his great surprise the horse appeared to start without a driver, the latter not having been detected by the bev/ildered passenger. Sambo was considerably scared. He threw himself into all manner of contortions, betraying his uneasiness, — clutched wildly at the reins, but failed to reach them, and the more he shouted the faster went the horse. At length he gave it up, consoling himself with the idea that the beast would stop at its stable. When it drew up at the Adelphi Hotel, (his destination,) Sambo was not long in alighting, but then he was more scared than ever ; there was the driver who had helped him into the cab at Euston standing before him, having sprung from he knew not where. The hero of this laughable adventure himself told us the story with many a comical grin at our amused reception of it. These colored people excel as waiters and upper servants, and appreciate no little the immense advan- tage which liberty and education is giving them. It is very gratifying to hear them express their desire that their children shall be well educated. And who so likely to value this as those who have been studiously deprived of it ! Their emancipation has proved not only that free labour will produce more It •ill r r i I II 96 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. work than forced labour, but that those released from a servile and degrading bondage are a frugal, obedient, and law- abiding community. I ^11! 1 ^1 97 VIII. MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. jURING our tour, we travelled through some of the New England States, with the intention of learning something as to the great manufacturing industries of America. Being wishful to inspect one of the finest cotton mills in the country, we were recommended to visit Lawrence, in preference to Lowell, and being kindly introduced by Mr. Littler, of Boston, we were courte- ously received by Mr. John Fallon, the acting agent of the Pacific Mills, North Lawrence, and by him conducted over the entire establishment. The mills are built on the Merrimac River, and are a fine im- posing structure, upon which much architectural taste has been expended. Immediately adjacent are the Companies' boarding houses, where young women and young men, employed at the mill, are boarded in separate dwellings. These structures have quite a superior appearance, and contain every domestic convenience. Every hand in the establishment is compelled to subscribe one cent per week towards a Library in connection with the establishment, and eight cents towards a sick fund. Everything in and around the mills is on the most approved principle. Even the railway coal trucks are conveyed on their track to the furnace mouths, so as to save waste by removal of coal ; in fact, this labour-saving idea ermeates the entire establishment, in all its extensive details. »i: w liiili 1 1 98 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. We do not propose to give a minute description of the mills, but will let the figures relating to them speak for themselves, merely remarking that though the largest, these mills arc an illustration of many of a similar character. The Pacific Mills Company was formed in the year 1853, ^^^^ ^ capital stock of $2,500,000. The following is a brief summary of this gigantic concern : Number of Mill Buildings 12 Acres of Flooring in Buildings 41 Cotton Spindles 135,000 Worsted Spindles 25,500 Number of Looms 4) 500 Pounds of Cotton Used per week 116,000 „ Wool „ „ M 65,000 Yards of Cloth Printed or Dyed, per week . . 1,000,000 Printing Machines (one to 16 colours) .... 24 Tons Coal Used, per year 23,000 Number of Steam Boilers (3,200 horse-power) . . 50 ,, ,, Engines (1,200 auxiliary) . . 37 ti Turbine Waterwheels (2000 horse-power) ii Cost of Gas, 5,000 Burners, per year .... $70,000 Cost of Labour, per month $160,000 . Average Daily Earnings — Women and Girls . . 98 c. ,, ,, ,, Men and Boys ... $1 40 c. Persons Employed — Women and Girls . . 3534 ) ,, ,, Men and Boys . . 1766 \ Stlf^ Number of Houses for Workpeople 275 Volumes of Books in Libraiy, over 7,000 We need scarcely say that the inspection of these mills, in full work, was a sight not easily to be forgotten. In America industries do not localise themselves as they do in the " old country," so that in travelling you occasionally drop upon a manufactory when and where it is least expected. The people are thoroughly practical, and soon master a new occupation. More- :lves ling and rhly ore- MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. 99 over, the inhabitants of the western States arc on the alert for industrial occupations for their children. Say they, "All cannot be farmers, for all have not the same tastes ; and availing ourselves of the present protec- tive tarififs, we must at once introduce pursuits by which our families may thrive and excel." Conse- quently the spindle and the shuttle are gradually and surely travelling Westward and Southward ; and America, insL :ad of remaining, as some good people dreamed, a land of buffalos and ploughs, will soon be- come an immense manufacturing nation. Her hills are full of coal, iron and brass ; she has a hidden wealth of minerals sufficient to make her independent of the rest of the world, and a population with which to turn her natural advantages to the best account. The Silk Industry is destined to form an important feature in American enterprise, and though Paterson is pre-eminently the centre of the trade, yet we find several Silk Mills scattered about the country. Every encouragement is given to the introduction of a new trade ; and if the country could see it to her interest to adopt a settled form of government, for say ten years, and a fixed tariff for the like period, an impetus would be given to commercial undertakings beyond the most sanguine expectations. It is a principle in the commercial world of America for one man to help another, and those who have plunged into some new business or enterprise, and thereby lost their capital, do not necessarily lose their credit ; they are not cast aside as weak and incapable, but are frequently taken by the hand by the strong and successful, and another chance given them. Provided a tradesman is deemed honest and industrious, though unable to pay a hun- ■'.'•m '■'' l > % >\ ii'i !' II lit 100 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. dred cents to the dollar, his misfortune is not counted a crime, nor are his children forbidden by social cus- tom from occupying public positions of trust and in- fluence. Were not this excellent gift of charity so fully exercised, it would go hard with many a good man in a new country, struggling among new faces for a subsistence. Native born and naturalized rogues are to be found in abundance in America, as in every other country ; and a man of business needs not only his wits about him, but a large amount of discern- ment, caution, and shrewdness. Our observation leads us to admire not only the remarkable commercial talent of the Americans, but what is even more noticeable — their indomitable industry and per- severance. * We discovered a divergence of opinion concerning the present protective Customs Duties. This question has been pretty freely discussed. Our opinion is that until the Americans can correctly estimate the amount of smuggling traceable to the present system, and also the amount of fraud practiced by custom house officials, it is almost impossible for them to compre- hend their true position in this respect. We imagine that Vv!:atever changes may occur in respect to their present tariff, they will be slow to expose their younger industries to the matured competition of Eastern markets. It might be an interesting experi- ment for enthusiastic free traders in England to enlighten the American mind by exhibiting the heroic self-sacrifice which England made in the interest of France and other Continental nations by her adoption of so-called Free Trade, but we imagine America might point with reasonable pride to the growth of MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. lOI of eri- to oic of ion B-ica of industries on her soil which would never have taken root (according to her own showing) but for the fostering policy she has pursued. We should rejoice to see a system of real and universal Free Trade, believing it would contribute to generally beneficial results, but the very partial adoption of Mr. Cobden's grand idea causes the present, commercial system to fall very short of the objects he sought to achieve. If we mistake not, the Hon W. Carey, of Phila- delphia, by whom we were very kindly received, can adduce very strong arguments against the principles of Free Trade, and though unable to agree with him in many of his conclusions, we take the opportunity of acknowledging his very frank and exceedingly pro- nounced opposition to the opinions we advanced. One is tempted, after all, to think that America is now old enough to know what is best for her, and probably with increasing experience and established industries, she will be as ready to discard, as she was to adopt, her present protective tariff. Raw silk is admitted into the States free of duty. Thrown silks bear a duty of 30 per cent, whilst Woven silks manage to find their way in, taxed (w/ien caught) at the modest duty of 60 per cent. Bearing all this in mind we devoted a day to a visit to South Manchester, distant from the pleasant and thriving town of Hartford, Connecticut, about seventeen miles. In Harper's New Monthly Magazine (No. 270, for Nov- ember, 1872) appears a description of this place, but as it was produced without the knowledge of the Messrs. Cheney, Bros., the proprietors of the great silk concern there, it is not half as interesting or nr I 102 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. M; m ill,' I i 11 1 1-" } -i 1 ; ,;« .'! ?• 1 it; fi . ■ ■=- . •If 1 ■ .If;. 1:1 1 1 accurate as it might otherwise have been. Wc avail ourselves however of a few extracts : "Here in this little village arc gathered the materials to furnish an epitome of the industry and social development of the country during this century. Here is a most successful enterprise, which has been built up by the patient and persistent energy of forty years. Its speciality, that of silk weaving, has been so frequently tried in this country without success, that it has generally been supposed that it could not be introduced here. Numerous unsuccessful attempts have been made by the Cheney Brothers themselves. They have tried raising the silk, they have imported the workmen, they have tried the various experiments which any one who is at all familiar with the diffi- culties in the way of successfully introducing any new industrial process knows it is necessary to try. But with patient perseverance they have steadily persisted, until success has been achieved." A single line of railway, the property of Messrs. Cheney, conveys us from Manchester Junction to South Manchester, and we alight at a small but very pretty station near the works. The grounds about the mill are laid out like a park, and abound with trees and ornamental shrubberies. The firm consists of six brothers, who have residences in the grounds. It is not the custom in America to enclose private grounds with hedges in order to secure seclusion from the outer world. The feeling is against exclusiveness ; the general tendency is to prevent the erection of barriers which would obstruct the freedorr of view ; and those who cannot enjoy possession are at least ^ess; of [ew ; least MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. IO3 not shut out by any artificial barrier from feasting their eyes on the natural beauties which are around them. There is not a fnnce on the Cheney Brothers' estate, consequently there is one unbroken view of the lovely domain on which the residences of the Brothers Cheney stand, the situation and style of each selected according to individual taste, some of them being elegant specimens of a country home, but none excelling in interest the old original homestead. " The cottages for the workmen ha^ i all been de- signed with artistic taste, while considerations of their interior convenience have no^ jeen overlooked. They are all furnished with a constant supply of water and gas. It has been found desirable to locate V .2 homes of the different nationalities at points re- mote from each other, thus avoiding any possible tur- moil which might grow out of petty discords. Cattle and chickens are prohibited, as either would be detri- mental to the unfenced garden patches. The domestic supplies for the families of the operatives are furnished at a store in which the proprietors of the factory have no interest, but over which they exercise a supervision, taking care that the materials furnished are good of the kind, and that the prices charged are just. An excellent school is provided, and it is made an in- variable rule that the operatives must send their chil- dren to it. Beside the school there is a large hall for the social entertainment of the operatives. The lower storey of this building is intended for a reading room. The hall itself contains one of the most simply effective interiors to be found. It is pro- vided with side-scenes for theatrical representa- tions. On Sundays services of a religious character 1 1 I \ flf,'?'! "!' i 104 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. are generally held here, at which clergymen of all denominations alternately preside. During the week occasional exhibitions of all kinds are held. Lectures are also given, and the various exhibitions which travel through the country engaged. The Hall is never let, but the expenses of the enter- tainments are paid by the firm. The basement of the hall is divided into two rooms, designed for the meeting of Temperance lodges. There is also a library and reading room, with between four and five hundred members, about equally divided as to sex. In the the third-story of the Hall is an armoury, fitted up for the colour-company of the First Connecticut Militia. A Zouave Company of boys also keep their Quaker rifles here. Two boarding houses are also provided, one of which is mostly patronised by married couples ; the other is the abode of the single men. The unmarried women board at the cottage of some friend, and thus secure congenial homes. The sale of liquor is prohibited by the Cheney Brothers, and a workman detected drunk the second time is instantly dismissed. There is a bea\itifully wooded knoll in the park, traversed by natural walks ; here a spacious dancing-platform has been erected, and on summer evenings a danc(i is enjoyed, to the accom- paniment of an excellent amateur band." The above quotation will serve to convey some idea of this charming and unique establishment. The spun and pure silk machinery in use here, is as beautiful and as perfect as possible. The looms, and the woven and printed fabrics, are all composed of the very best materials. Neither labour nor expense is spared in making every department perfect, whilst in some MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. 10$ point of cleanliness and order, we have never visited any manufactory to approach it. Having seen the establishment of M. Bonet, in the South of France, and now having visited the manu- factory of Messrs. Cheney Brothers, we Teel pretty confident that we are acquainted with the two most interesting illustrations of the silk industry in the world. Our acknowledgments are due to Messrs. Cheney for their polite attention ; and we are pleased to learn, that considered simply with regard to material results, the success attained by their firm, during the past 40 years, has been eminently satisfac- tory. The New England States are alive with manu- factories, and these Eastern men are noted for their shrewdness. Very pleasant fellows some of them are, but with a terrible habit of inquisitiveness. We remember one day travelling to a town in Massa- chusetts which we afterwards learnt was celebrated for its boot and shoe trade ; a tall Eastern man in the cars accosted us, and not only asked us where we were going to, but what we were going for ! Failing to ascertain our errand, he at last said " Guess you are in the boot and shoe trade ? " We in return quietly assured him that " we hoped to be, when our boots were worn out." But this had very little effect, and the interrogations became ten times more incessant. Our nationality was at length discovered, and then we were subjected to another volley of questions — Where were we born ? and why were we born there ? But happily our train just stopped at this moment, and our readers are saved the reply we might have hazarded. ,, H i io6 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. !■ Hartford, as a town, is a smart, active little busi- ness place, with a population of from 45,000 to 50,000, which is rapidly increasing. As we return hence to New York, the line skirts the " Sound," and passes through manufacturing towns well known in Europe, such as New Haven, New London, and Bridgeport. In the latter are several large sewing machine factories, including Wheeler and Wilson's, and other well known firms. Singer's, however, is probably the largest es- tablishment of this description. This is situated near Newark in New Jersey ; it is stated that last year (1876) this firm had a capital of four millions invested in their extensive business, and that during the Ex- hibition they took four thousand workmen down to Philadelphia, at a cost of ;{^3C)00. We mention this fact simply to convey an idea of the magnitude of these concerns, and to shew the almost illimitable demand for these ingenious labour-saving machines. It is truly interesting to trace the history of such inventions. None can tell where the idea of an invention terminates ; once born, it never dies, but lives on in manifold shapes and countless appliances. Thus, old things become new, and as the world grows older, man grows the more eager in the pursuit of discovery, and the acquirement of knowledge and wealth. iii M-: ""^^"5^«§£.^ 107 this • IX. BROOKLYN. Brooklyn, the sister city of New York, and separated froin it by the East river, is called the "City of Churches." It is pleasantly situated, and is bounded on the west by the Atlantic Ocean. An im- mense suspension bridge is now being erected, con- necting it with New York. It has several ferries, the " Fulton" being the principal, and across these the traffic is enormous. A heavy calamity — the burning of the " Brooklyn Theatre," by which some hundreds of lives were lost, occurred during our residence there, and on visiting the scene the next day we were witness to the anguish of bereaved friends in their sad search for missing relatives, and to the sadder spectacle of charred and unrecognized remains being removed to a temporary morgue. It will be well if this dire misfortune serves to direct practical attention to the inadequate means of egress from public buildings. Connected with nearly all American hotels, manu- factories, and large stores, outside fire-proof staircases are provided ; but when excited crowds of people, closely packed in a building, are suddenly seized with panic, fatal results are almost sure to follow, and we agree with the Rev. Henry Ward Beecher that it is " as utterly useless to endeavour to prevent their flight by any moral persuasion, as it would be to stop a stampede of a herd of bufifalos by reading to them the Ten Commandments." ;S 'A Is 11 Ifi- it: I . W 1 ! 1; 1 I'i '4i II :S! I • Ei I 11 io8 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. The streets of this city are wide and adorned with goodly trees, preparing you for the charming drives afforded through the finely-timbered avenues of Prospect Park, several parts of which remind an Englishman of many a landscape in his own be- loved country. The good people of Brooklyn may be congratulated on having such a delightful resort. Adjoining this park, but more to seaward, we catch the sound of a tolling bell, and directly pass un- der a massive archway into " Greenwood Cemetery." This northern entrance lodge has been completed at great cost, and above the two gateways are groups of sculpture forced of the Nova Scotia sandstone. These fine sculptures represent " The Saviour's Entomb- ment;" "His Resurrection;" "The Restoring of the Widow's Son," and the "Raising of Lazarus." Higher up, on four shields, are figures in relief of "Faith," "Hope," " Memory" and "Love." The breadth, massiveness and height of this structure invest it with much impressiveness and grandeur. The grounds of the cemetery comprise 450 acres. Eighteen and a half miles of broad, substantial carriage roads, and sixteen miles of footpaths, afford ready and convenient access to every part. All the paths are covered with an admirable concrete pavement, which is always free from dust, mud, and weeds ; ornamental lakes of water, with sparkling fountains, greet the eye ; the trees, shrubs, and flowers are effectively arranged, and the visitor finds it hard to believe that underneath these verdant slopes rest the remains of 180,000 human beings. Such however is the fact. This huge necropolis has a charter of its own, and its governors are elected by the different lot-owners. an be- y be , we ; un- >» rners. BROOKLYN. IO9 The charter requires that the proceeds of all sales of lots shall be applied to the purchase, preservation, improvement, and embellishment of the Cemetery, and to the incidental expenses thereof. A permanent improvement fund has also been set aside in order to keep the grounds in perpetual repair. The fund now amounts to some i^ 180,000. The monuments, as may be imagined, correspond with the costly surround- ings, and exhibit the highest order of art. Many of them have been brought from Rome, and examples are met with from the studios of the greatest Italian sculptors. Money has been abundantly lavished upon the monumental mementoes, and nothing that affection could suggest has been spared to express its lasting remembrance. " Battle Hill " is adorned every year with tiny little banners ; the " Sailors' graves," the " Fireman's hill," each bear the choice im- press of art in the monuments executed thereon, whilst children's graves are rendered pretty, and we much admired the mode of inserting the nursery or house- hold name, thus— "To little Nellie," "dear Sue," " To our dear Charlie," c " " darling Bertie." In some cemeteries it is the fashion to place on the grave a favourite toy, but this custom is not encouraged here. Upc*' some of the carved monuments to be seen here, as much as ;^io,ooo has been expended, and in one instance, we were informed, the entire fortune of a young heiress was expended on her tomb. Such lavish extravagance is seldom if ever practised in our own country. A tall granite shaft attracted our notice. It had cost ^800, and was "erected by a once poor orphan boy to his guardian mother." We particularly noticed the raised letters, which are ;i UkaiUaiail^ibi^Ma IH. M'i': 1 10 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. common in America, and which greatly enhance the beauty of monumental sculpture. In Mount Auburn Cemetery, Boston, which resembles Greenwood, were two monuments which, though certainly not the most ostentatious, were to our mind especially beautiful. One was a marble tomb, on the top slab of which lay the representation of a sheaf of corn, the carving of which was exquisite. The other was rather more pretentious. On it was carved, three-quarter life size, an angel with a flaming flambeau reversed ; beside the angel knelt a beautiful female figure, veiled, clasping a cross, representing Grief The angelic messenger with one hand was gently raising her veil, and with his other hand directing her to look upward, whilst the following inscription recorded the meaning, if any explanation were needed : — *' Now faith is the substance of things hoped for ; the evidence of things not seen." But why all this expenditure in costly monuments? The Americans are simple, to a degree, in their funeral arrangements. Black is not absolutely necessary, nor are the little children of deceased parents, as a rule, arrayed in sable colours. A light and nicely painted hearse, containing the *' casket," exposed to view, is substituted for the heavily plumed and ugly vehicle so common in England, whilst friends sur- round the grave who, if they must have waited to "order black," would not have been there at all. A proper respect and reverence should ever be paid to the resting places of the dead, but would it not be better to be enabled to unite the names of the departed with some enduring institution for charitable objects rather than engrave the record of their deeds and U BROOKLYN. Ill lents ? neral 7, nor rule, nicely 5ed to I ugly sur- vaited at all. aid to lot be arted bjects s and their ancestry on perishable marble? Man devises many ways to render his name imperishable ; yet even a '■ word fitly spoken," or a kind action oppor- tunely rendered, may give a sweet savour to the memory, and exert an influence for good, beyond even the utmost aspirations for earthly fame. For what is it, but, as described by the poet — A snowball, which derives existence , From every flake, and yet rolls on the same, Even 'till an iceberg it may chance to grow, But after all 'lis nothing but cold snow. America owes much to her Sunday School System, and we were told that Brooklyn, in this respect, was pre-eminently indebted to the labours of intelligent and pious teachers. During the Sabbath we spent at Phila- delphia, we went out as far as Bethany to attend the Sunday School there, of which a highly respected and excellent citizen is superintendent. Many hun- dred scholars had assembled, and the sight we wit- nessed was interesting and impressive. All classes attend these schools, which receive scholars of all ages, and it is gratifying to know that these institutions are doing a good work in the direction of the religious advancement of the people. It is curious to note the Bible names of towns we come across — such as Nineveh, Sardis, Athens, An- tioch, Galilee, Salem, &c. We imagine this nomen- clature arises from an intimate knowledge of, and ven- eration for, Bible lands and cities, for surely the names do not now harmonize with the ruined cities of the East, though possibly at an earlier date their isolated position bore some resemblance to them, particularly those villag'^s (now towns) situated on the banks of some of the lakes. m r 112 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. r^:\ ;■ i'i f i ! , ;| if !i i We have previously mentioned the river steamers of America, the completeness and elegance of which are a great source of pride to American travellers. We were frequently asked our opinion respecting them, and were advised to see the " Providence " and the " Bristol," two boats which ply alternately between New York and Boston, via Fall River. Accordingly we take a state room on board the former, and with over 900 fellow-passengers, leave New York at 4-30 p.m., and steer into the Sound, which for a good distance is sheltered from the Atlantic swell by Long Island. The perfect appoint- ments of these steamers must be seen to be appre- ciated. They are floating palaces, decorated regardless of expense, and with consummate taste, furnished in costly woods, which are handsomely upholstered with silk and velvets, or Russia leather. The " bridal chambers " in these boats are specimens of decorative art, and embrace every known luxury and indulgence. Dinner is served from six to eight o'clock, in a saloon resplendent wit'i gas lustres, ornamental glass, the purest of silver plate and whitest of table linen. The bill of fare embraces every variety of the rarest deli- cacies, and when, after sipping your coffee, you ad- journ to the upper saloon, you find it filled with ladies and gentlemen in evening costume, who promenade to the strains of a complete stringed band, which gives selections from the most popular operatic music. Groups are formed for whist, matronly ladies bring out their knitting or embroidery, young people congre- gate in couples or otherwise at the bow of the boat, allowing the "man in the moon" to witness their silent love tokens, whilst the elderly gentlemen wonder what BROOKLYN. II3 their fathers would think of the luxuries of modern travel. So in calm water the boat and time speed on, — eleven o'clock strikes, the lights are lowered; each couch finds an occupant, mirth melts into slum- ber, and at 5 a.m., next morning, we are summoned to take our seats in the railroad cars which convey us in less than three hours to the city of Boston. This city must be the subject of the succeeding chapter. I ♦ • I,'"- 1 4 hat 114 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. 'i4 tit I I 5; if '' i. I \\ X. BOSTON. JOSTON is said to be "more English" than any of the American cities. The climate is cold, the streets are wide, the shops handsome, the street cars innumerable, and the ladies remarkably pretty, the latter being a characteristic which it is a pride and pleasure to acknowledge as most essentially English. We even might go so far as to admit a style of beauty in the Bostonian ladies sufficient to remind us of "England, home, and beauty." Trade is said to be the aristocracy of America, and learning may be said to be the aristocracy of Boston. In New York you are asked what you are worth, in Boston, what you know ? and however candid you may be in New York, — pray " know nothing" in Boston, unless you imagine yourself fortified by a superior university education, such as the Boston people enjoy, and on which is founded their superior attainments. Havard College is just outside the city, with quite a little army of indoor and outdoor Professors ; minor colleges surround the city like forts around a garrison ; and were the city overthrown to-morrow and sub- jected in future ages to Pompeian discovery, its records would disclose a series of students' manuals, and a complete encyclopedia of educational history. Boston merits the enviable distinction among American cities of being the leader of educational progress ; and from its breadth of conception as to in- BOSTON. 115 tellectual aims, the liberality and method displayed in giving them effect, and the satisfactory results achieved, there is much to be learnt by all interested in the educational question. The Bishop of Manches- ter lately referred to a report of the Boston schools, and the work done in that city, with a view to stimu- late the citizens of Manchester to greater liberality and effort in providing a free library suitable to the re- quirements of that great community. A copy of such report, for the year 1875, was kindly placed in our hands during our visit, and as we have a very high opinion of its interest and value, we propose to refer to it somewhat fully in order that the operations of school work in that city may be well understood by our friends at home. Dealing first with the comparative worth of the Boston school system, the Report points out that it is especially the interest of tax-payers to learn how far, in the wisdom of fair-minded observers, the great and increasing expenditure for instruction is justified by substantial results of intelligence, morality and health, for these three elements enter with almost equal im- portance into sound education. The history of the city shows conclusively that no spirit of niggardliness with regard to popular education will find any en- couragement among the best citizens ; and it is con- ceded that a false economy would be the worst extravagance and folly. What is the comparative standing of Boston schools among those of the great cities of the Union ? "The estimate of impartial observers, both native and foreign, has been many times presented in former an- nual reports as uniformly bestowing the highest praise UK Ii6 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. 1 ! ' '*-5 upon Boston schools. But there is another sort of testimony which appears to the committee of great weight, and which has not been duly emphasised hitherto. The comparative attendance at the public and private schools indicates how far the school system of any city is performing its true functions of meet- ing the needs of all social and intellectual grades of the community. In every city there are people of wealth who will have that which seems to them the best in- struction for their children, and who, if this is not pro- vided by the public schools, will seek it elsewhere. Now it is a striking fact, which was presented in Mr. Philbrick's report for 1874, that authoritative statistics report a smaller number of pupils in private schools in the year 1873 than in the years 1817, 1830, id 1856. In other words, while the city has been grow- ing in population, and while the mixed character of the public pupils naturally begets an increasing fastidi- ousness on the part of parents, which would pre- sumptively draw away many children from the public schools, the figures shew, if they are to be trusted, that parents are willing to overlook many minor social and moral disadvantages in consideration that the average schools maintained by the city are better than average private schools." The number of children enrolled in the Boston public schools was 53,752 ; the number in private schools, including the free sectarian schools was 8,887, that is, the latter number to the former is in a ratio of one-sixth nearly. In New York the enrolled school population is 251,545, and in private schools 85,000 are reported — a ratio of more than one-third. In Chicago the public pupils are 47,963, the private Jton ^ate 587, |o of lool Locx) In rate BOSTON. 117 pupils 28,251 — more than one-half, and in St. Louis, where allowance must be made for the linger- ing prejudices of race and colour, there a e 36,983 pub- lic pupils, and 21,789 private pupils, the ratio being nearly the same as in Chicago. " The significance of these facts (we again quote from the report; cannot be too highly appreciated. If that be the most perfect system of public instruction in a democratic country which most fully meets the wants of rich and poor alike, the Boston system may claim to approach closer than any other, in any American city of magnitude, the ideal of democratic perfection The best is the cheapest. Any cheapness which encourages class distinctions, and makes the public schools the resort chiefly of those who are too poor or too indifferent to results to go elsev^ acre, will, in the long run, do irretrievable damage to those interests of the land without which property would be of little value ; and let it be remem- bered that the public school instruction is furnished at much lower rates than can be offered by any respectable private schools, and that in a city where half or one-third the children are to be paid for at the private school rate, the actual outlay of money is far greater than under any public system, so that, in truth, Boston schools give more for the money spent than any schools in the Union." In regard also to the percentage of the school population found in regular attendance at school, Superintendent Harris, of St. Louis, places Boston far at the head of 34 cities in this respect, its percentage being 89 ; while St. Louis stands at 6^, Chicago at 61, and New York at 54. This preponderance is Ii8 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. 'II ii largely attributed to the efficiency of the truant laws ; but is also partly ascribed to the co-operation of appreciative parents and guardians, whose sympathies would not have been gained under a less liberal and progressive administration. " Thus despite all criti- cism and complaints, the silent testimony of the faith of citizens is, that the cities which make the bravest show in respect of the cheapness of tuition, are those whose educational systems are least worthy the confidence of all classes." Combatting the unfavourable contrasts sometimes drawn betwixt the scholarship and fitness for practical life of graduates of the present and of former times, when studies were fewer and expenditures smaller, (an opinion not justified by any known facts) it is pointed out that the secret of former inferiority lay in the fact that, with the lack of system in teaching, no particular educational qualifications were required of the sub- ordinate instructors, who were thought to do well if they could keep order and '* hear lessons " — (qualifi- cations not identical with good teaching, though there are some who think they are). Now, the standard of intelligence, refinement, and ability to impart infor- mation is much higher than before ; and intelligent work is applied to all the classes, instead of being confined as formerly to a part of the first class only. Careful classification distributes the pupils into di- visions suited to their attainments. There is now a more faithful attention to matters of school hygiene than ever before ; ventilation and gymnastics are thought of as once they were not, and the medal and like fruitful systems of overwork and nervous exhaus- tion have been cast out, so that it may (says the aws ; m of Lthies I and criti- f the e the lition, orthy T the ct the iuates 3 were n not It that t that, ticular i sub- ^ell if lualifi- there lard of infor- iligent being only. Ito di- low a 'giene ;s are l1 and :haus- the BOSTON. i 19 Report) with good reason be held that the school- children, rs a whole, are as vigorous and hale as were their city fathers and grandfathers. In dealing with the character and qualifications of school teachers, the principle i^ recognised and acted upon of substituting a systematic examination of all candidates for the position ot teachers for any previous lack of method, and of bringing about a most decided civil service reform in the system of educa- tion. " The salaries of all teachers are none too high for the best order of educational skill. Cheap teachers are in the long run poor and costly. The best teacher of our primary children is the one who, other things be- ing equal, knows the most. The work that wears, that bears scrutiny, and calls out the best powers of a child's mind, is that which is built on the fullest sources of information and Lhoughtfulness." On the subject of industrial education, the report points out that the only form in which it has hitherto been found feasible to combine with intellectual culture some form of in- dustrial training, has been by instruction in sewing and drawing. The 'systematic instruction in Drawing is yet in its infancy in America, but as nearly all the public school Inspectors point very strongly to the ne- cessity of its general introduction, it may be taken for granted that this class of education will be imme- diately supplied. Meanwhile in Boston a museum of art is being erected, one wing of which is already opened, and art students are permitted to study as at South Kensington. The report adds : " It is said that the greater number of our poorer children intend to follow the trades of their fathers ; but that is simply to assert that they dre to swell the m m im 120 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. I! i^';i i! fft I _ ! i » i.:l P^ mass of crude labour which is equal to only the average brute drudgery of life — to driving carts, carrying hods, shovelling in gravel pits, and the per- formance of similar toil. We want these children to do better work than their fathers, and the use of the compass and pencil is one of the instrumentalities by which they are to find openings into the sort of skilled labour from which New England must draw its future prosperity as a manufacturing and commercial community." The chief offices of the Education Department are located in the City Hall We were very courteously received by the Superintendent, who very kindly offered to accompany us the round of the schools on the next day ; but as this could not be made con- venient, we at once visited some of the schools which he particularly wished us to see. The system of in- struction in America does not vary much. It is as complete as possible. The various standards and grades are reviewed year by year, and everything that can be done is done to perfect tho educational code. The school buildings in Boston are perhaps superior to those of other cities ; and there seemed to us a sort of indescribable smartness in the school work, both on the part of teachers and scholars, v;hich compared favorably with what we had seen in other districts. We had been led to expect great things of Boston, and our greatest expectations were certainly exceeded. Not only was this the case in the High School, but the same order and intelligence characterised the dis- cipline and appointments of the Middle and Primary schools ; and the advantages derivable by the pupils appeared to us to be very evenly distributed. BOSTON. 121 At the risk of again introducing statistics, we have copied from the Report a short summary of the schools and attendance, feeling assured that figures, in the absence of a visit to these schools, will alone convey an approximate idea of the magnitude and operations of the school system of Boston. Let any thoughtful mind weigh the derivable results, and then a clue will be obtained to the acknowledged superi- ority of this cultured community. BOSTON SCHOOLS. SUMMARY OF STATISTICS FOR THE SCHOOL YEAR ENDING AUGUST 31, 1875. Population, 1875 34i,9i9 No. of persons in City between five and 15 years of age 60,255 Increase for the year, 3> 57 ' No. of High School Houses 8^ No. of Grammar School Houses — boys, 1 1 ; girls, 11; for both, 28 ... : 50 '- 144 No. of School Houses for Primary Schools now occupied 86 . Whole No. of Teachers — Males 203 | g „ „ ,, Females 1,093 ) ' Average whole No. of Pupils belonging to Day Schools of all grades during the year . . 44>984 Average Daily Attendance of Pupils in all the Day Schools 41,606 Average whole No. belonging to Evening Schools 2,784 Average whole No. belonging to Evening Draw- ing cichools 632 Total Expenditure for all School purposes . . $2,081,043 Cost per Scholar $36 85 c. It is worthy of observation that the residences of all teachers and pupil teachers at Boston are printed in the Public Schools' Manual of the city — a pro- ceeding which no doubt assists- in insuring their identity and good behaviour. This publication of 11 il ;„"■■' '■ ;l ■■■■■ . , 1 r ' 1 ■' ' |lt: ^ 5 ■ 122 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. ) '■■ ! residence also applies to pupils in the High and Normal Schools. With a reference to the " Lowell Grammar School House," which was dedicated in November 1874, and, including land, cost over $150,000, (;^30,ooo) we shall conclude our notice of the school system of Boston. This school has been opened to supply the wants of a district, the land in which has been owned for genera- tions by the Lowell family. The members of this family have ever been distinguished both for their philanthropy and their literary attainments. The dedi- cation of the building took place on the lOth Novem- ber, 1874, when the keys were formally handed over to the mayor of the city, the Hon. Samuel B. Colt. A very pleasing account of the ceremony appears in the annual report of the School Committee, which altogether is a very interesting volume. In accepting the keys, and referring to the intelligence, the public spirit, and the liberality of the Lowell family, the mayor said : "The words used by Edward Everett in referring to the deserved honour which had been paid to the name in bestowing it upon a sister city, may well be repeated on the occasion of dedicating the Lowell Grammar School House, in the city which con- tains the Lowell Institute. ' What memorial of a great public benefactor so becoming as the bestowal of his name on a prosperous community, which has started, as it were, from the soil at the touch of his wand. Pyramids and mausoleums may crumble to the earth, and brass and marble mingle with the dust they cover ; but the pure and well-deserved renown which is thus incorporated with the busy life of an intel- ligent people, will be remembered till the long lapse of 1 BOSTON. 123 ages, and the vicissitudes of fortune, shall reduce all America to oblivion and decay." We feel a pleasure also in quoting the response of the Master, Mr. Daniel W. Jones on receiving the keys of office presented to him by the Mayor, and venture to think that this address displays the wise discrimination of the Committee in selecting such a tutor : "Friends, — To you, the people of this community, this occasion must be a very interesting one. For 1 5 years I have been personally acquainted with your want of school privileges. At last the city fathers have answered you nobly, and I assure you, Mr. Mayor, that for this building you have the thanks of an intelligent and appreciating community. The struc- ture is here and speaks for itself. In the construction of the building much attention has been paid to the laws of health. Its rooms are high-storied and well-lighted. There is no room but is purified by the sun's rays. We have double windows to all the rooms, which can be arranged so as to admit fresh air without the cold currents which shorten the lives of so many of our little ones. We also have a good system of ventila- tion. The building committee have provided against any possible accident from fire. If you will visit the basement you will find it fireproof. See this beautiful hall, radiant with sunlight and intelligent faces. Look out in any direction, and the soul is filled with pleasure. You have adorned its walls most munificently. These pictures will not only be a pleasure to the eye of thousands of children, but they cannot fail to exert a healthy, moral influence. That our characters are modified by surrounding objects, both animate and il ii'i •1 ■ ■■ i 1; ■ t ;i f "■ J, wt " ;, i, 1 1 n:; i| ! 124 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. inanimate, is a law as fixed as gravitation. You have given these pictures to yourselves for your children. I thank you for thus expressing your interest in the school. Parents, the Committee have entrusted to my custody these keys. Yo?i commit to my direction the immortal minds of your dear children. They will meet here day after day, month after month, and year after year, to receive the impress which these surroundings and our characters shall give them. We are to inspire them with a high sense of justice ; we are to imbue them with a deep reverence for goodness, and give a right direction to their thoughts. In this high and glorious work parents and teachers must work together ; there must be no pulling in opposite directions. You must visit us often, and let us commune together freely on the best interests of these children. It takes a peculiar man to be just the right sort of a teacher. He is an article compounded of various ingredients. There never wa3 but one perfect teacher, Him we must be content to follow ; so you must not expect to find perfection in any of the teachers of this School. A teacher should not be blamed for other people's sins. It is sometimes said that a teacher takes the child as the sculptor takes the marble from the quarry ; but there is one important difference ; when the sculptor leaves his work, for rest or relaxation, the half-formed statuary remains ar> he left it. The pupil is never found as he was left. He is worked upon by other hands, and excrescences burst forth which cannot be chipped off with hammer and chisel. Silently and unobserved, mysterious influences are at work in the street, at noonday, and under the quiet stars. Let us watch our children n ! ! 1 the >t be said the rtant rest ; he He mces nmer rious , and dren BOSTON. 125 carefully. The character which promises to reveal in the beauty and symmetry of its proportions an Apollo, may be touched by the spoiler, and become a Caliban of misshapen ugliness. While, therefore, we as teachers will endeavour, term by term, to do better and better, we at the same time ask you to co-operate with us most heartily, and we beg you to leaven your strictures and denunciations with the heavenly grace of charity." The length to which we have extended our notice of the Boston schools must be our apology, if any is needed, for a rapid description of other features of the city. There arc many indications of wealth as well as culture, as we stroll through the streets. Witness the fine buildings, the busy streets, the crowds of wealthy ladies in Tremont street, and in the principal thoroughfares during shopping hours ; and notice too how block after block of valuable warehouses, stores, and public buildings, have been rebuilt in a style of solid grandeur, by the unaided resources of the wealth of the city, on the site of the great conflagration which a year or two ago caused such a scene of de- vastation and ruin. In some of the streets we again recognise the charming effect produced by the presence of fine trees. Napoleon turned aside his great Simplon Road in order to save a tree. Surely the time will come when English towns will be adorned by these graceful and refreshing additions. Boston Common, comprising 48 acres of undulat- ing ground, contains noble forest timber, underneath whose foliage children laugh and play, as in the Tuileries Garden at Paris ; whilst the ornamental park ;i! Ml MM) 126 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. .»' • nil i 11 adjoining forms an elegant contrast. The State House with its golden cupola, overlooks these grounds, and is an imposing structure. On a slab in the reception hall is the following inscription : ''Americans, — While from this eminence scenes of luxuriant fertility, of flourishing commerce, and the abodes of social happiness, meet your view, forget not those who b> their exertions have secured to you these blessings." On being asked to sign our name in the visitors' book, we followed an individual who took fully ten minutes to inscribe his name ; on asking the colored attendant how this happened, he replied " He is an Old Notion, and I guess he comes here twice a week and leaves his signature, which none of us can read." The " Old Notion " took as much pains in the act as though he had been signing the Declaration of Independence. The State House contains many old records, — a statue of Washington, by Sir F. Chantrey, /ac siniiies of the memorial tablets of the ancestors of Washington, and tattered flags of most of the regi- ments of the Massachusetts Volunteers, who during the years of the war " have won renown and have suff*ered on many battle-fields, and upon long and heavy marches, in the cold of the iron winter, and in the heat of the leafy summer," and of whom General William Schonler, late Adjutant-General, in his Report of 1863, says : While absent from the Common- wealth, they have written to me many friendly and often confidential letters, about their condition in the field, and of their personal affairs at home, and I have felt and do now feel that, • . "I loved them for the dangers they have passed, And they loved me that 1 did pity them/' 1 ! BOSTON. 127 Public carriages in Boston are very well-appointed vehicles, but are very expensive for hire. A drive " up town," and round the reservoir, returning by the " mill dam," afforded us a fair view of the public buildings, fine terraces, and elegant suburban homes which adorn this route. The roads are good, and in winter this drive is much favoured for sleighing parties, rendering it a scene of great animation and mirth. The scrupulously clean condition of the tram cars, and the strict regulations concerning them, attract the notice of the visitor. Each car contains a printed notice pointing out the duties of both driver and conductor, and attention is also prominently directed to the rules to be observed by passengers. " Faneuil Hall" and the " Old South Church" have interesting historical associations; while Bunker's Hill awakens associations of another kind, and varied according to the nationality of the visitor. During our stay we attended some of the sessional meetings of the Church Congress, and listened to several prelates and distinguished pastors and laymen. We are, however, among those who dislike a public discussion of knotty questions of religious controver- sies. Some of the clearest thinkers are the worst speakers, and the best speakers are not always the most practical. There are sadly too many minor dif- ferences in Christian churches ; and when these be- come multiplied and exhibit themselves among brethren of the same sect on the same platform, it is to be feared that much is done towards weakening a right influence. Sometimes "convocations" and "con- ferences" render conscientious men timid, and ignorant men bold ; and it would be well indeed, with regard to M i'l'f m 'U f 1 iihi! ilti!!i 128 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. ii| diversity of religious belief, if we could "let everything be done without disputations and murmurings." One topic at the Congress was " The Bible in our Public Schools." Our sympathy is with the daily reading of the Holy Scriptures in these schools, but not make it imperative ; at the same time we would oppose the teaching of dogmatic or denominational views. The Bible never was given for this purpose by its Divine Author, and His subjects should be loyal to their sacred trust. A large shipping trade is done at the port of Boston, and there are some extensive shipbuilding yards, but these we were unable, from lack of time, to visit, and we had also to forego the pleasure of visiting the interesting and extensive works of the Waltham Watch Company, and other attractive hives of industry in the neighbourhood. ' I 129 XI. THE PRESIDENTIAL ELECTION. |URING our Autumn journeyings we witnessed incessant excitement consequent on the then approaching Presidential Election. The torch-light processions were well worth seeing, and were altogether novel to our English ideas. These processions were composed of from 400 to 1,000 men, dressed in pink and drab tunics with white pantaloons, and wearing a sort of helmet-shaped head dress. Each man carried a flambeau, and one or more brass bands headed the illuminated column. The " rank and file " were officered by leading men from the district committees, and in *' proving the companies " and "counter marching" we at once recognised the military training both officers and men had acquired in the war. It is by such loyalty and valour as was exhibited by the citizen soldiers of America during the late war that the country is enabled to dispense with the great incubus of an unproductive standing army, such as that which drains the wealth of many European states, and is a standing menace to peaceful interests. A country defended by the ready action of her self-sacrificing sons is strong both for war and peace. No sooner was the late war ended than both officers and men threw off their uniforms and returned to their peaceful professions or occupations, emulating each other in the smiling arts of peace, as they had previously done in the horrid carnage of war. :m m m' u l-l: ;: 130 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. But to return to the processional demonstrations which preceded the Presidential Election. The Republicans and Democrats generally paraded on alternate nights. Wigwam or mass meetings were frequently held, and orations delivered, startling in their effect and wearisome in their length. In most of the railroad cars a canvasser would be appointed, and we were more than once asked for our vote ; on one occasion firmly refusing, and asserting our nation- ality, a tall Southerner got up and said, ** If the stranger is neutral, put him down for Tilden." Occasionally there was rather heated discussion ; one day, we sat in a railway car between two rival politi- cians who waged a very warm battle. Both grew ex- cited, until, short of argument, ono of them said, " I vow I'll never taste whisky again until Hayes is elected." Replied the other, " Waal, in that case I guess you'll go to your j."*ave a sober man." Loud laughter followed, and the i . ' ^n patriot was voted the victor in the wordy encounter. Tuesday, the seventh of November, was election day. The rain poured down in torrents ; public houses were supposed to be closed, but whether on account of the weather or not we do not pretend to say, but they certainly allowed shoUer to all who chose to enter. We visited several of the booths in Jersey City and at Paterson. The balloting is worked very similar to the system in vogue at our municipal and parliamentary elections. Good order and good tem- per everywhere prevailed ; but we fear from what we heard that down South a certain amount of intimidation was adopted towards the colored voters. Some of the districts of New York also required careful treat- u 1 At THE PRESIDENTIAL ELECTION. 131 mcnt ; but where upwards of 172,000 persons vote in a city representing so many nationalities, it is not sur- prising that some misunderstandings :.nould take place. Any man of full age in America can claim to vote after five years' residence, by availing himself of the constitutional method of becoming registered. As is not unusual in keenly contested elections, both parties were sure of success in the Presidential election, the Democrats being especially confident. The population of the States in the time of Washing- ton was only three millions ; it is now forty-two millions, and over eight millions are said to have polled in this election. Next morning, nearly the whole of the American press gave the majority to Tilden, the next day to Hayes, and from that time to the 4th of March, 1877, the American Con- stitution has undergone a strain which would have shattered some Republics into a thousand fragments. America, however, has nobly survived it, and in the coming interval of calm, she may profitably review the past. The weakness of some portions of her administration is sufficiently apparent. The abomin- able venality and treachery of her office-holders, arising in a great measure from the short tenure of office, affords a humiliating spectacle which her illustrious founders would have blushed to realize. Mr. Hayes, an honorable and able man, now happily occupies the " White House," and those in the world who pine for freedom and sigh for peace, will do well to pray that he and his colleagues n'^y be permitted to enact such laws as shall elevate the just, protect the innocent, and punish the guilty, so that this great people, purged from all that is corrupt and !i!;:i! i m^ m 1 is 132 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. indefensible, may be enabled to found an enduring inuuence upon the eternal basis of purity and justice. fell 1 1 ■■J K * ■ R I 133 XII. A^IERICAN HOTELS. )HERE are many very big things in America, and big hotels are included among the number. They are unique in this respect, and in many others ; and our experience during our tour led us to regard them, not only as colossal, but very entertaining centres of travel. It is almost impossible to overrate the conveniences to be found in these immense houses. One drawback to comfort which we experienced, however, was the constant chatter and crowds in the vestibules. Some hotels in this respect are worse than others, and resemble at certain times of day and night a kind of " high change." The first thing you are expected to do on arrival is to inscribe your name in a book ; a room is then apportioned you, the key of which is handed over. Henceforth you are addressed by the cfifice clerks as Mr. , and you are thus made to feel as though you retained your personality. In th's respect the rr.ethod is very different to that of many English hotels, where you are known during your stay as '* No. 20," or " Letter B," very much resembling the lott'*"^ and numbering of old china. After securing your room, you are invited to step into the " elevator," which is generally furnished in admirable taste. Now and then, however, it is slightly crowded, so that timid people often enquire how many it is intended to hold. The attendant quickly allays ; 1:1 III Li ! i 134 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. t: : any alarm, very differently to the man who when descending a coal pit, ventured to ask the pitman how often they renewed the rope ? " Every six months," replied he, " and " to-morrow is the day." The elevators are mostly worked by a screw, and accidents of any kind arc very uncommon. We may rem.ark that hoists of this kind are to be met with in nearly all public buildings and stores, thus rendering the higher flats accessible to all, and these elevated sets of rooms are much valued on account of their quietude, and the pure air which they command. Great attention is paid to the comfort of ladies at these large hotels. One thing which strikes an Eng- lishman as a thoughtful and wise provision, is the private entrance for ladies, who are thus enabled to avoid the bustle and noise of the general thoroughfare. There are no early closing hours for American hotels ; consequently the doors stand open nearly all the night through. The place of honour among American hotels for magnificence, vast proportions, completeness and luxuriousness, must be awarded to the "Palmer House," Chicago. This is a noble and most command- ing architectural building, and enjoys the distinction of being up to the present time, the " largest and finest hotel in the world." The interior arrangements are upon the most perfect and sumptuous scale. The Grand Hall, constructed of thirty-four diffcicnt kinds of marble, from as many different quarries in all parts of the world, is 28 feet wide by 70 long, and is m the Ionic order of architecture. This leads to the Rotunda, a most imposing building, 64 feet wide, 100 feet long and 27 feet high, decoratec' '• the Corinthian style ; the floor, wainscotting, j;rand staircase leadin,; fron. I •I AMERICAN HOTELS. 135 4e; tor., it, &c., being all of choice Italian marble, elaborately sculptured. The grand staircase extends from the basement to the upper story. It is constructed of Italian marble, and each step and platform is cut from a solid block and so constructed that it supports the other throughout the entire flight. The marble was brought from the quarries of Carrara, Italy, and cut and fitted there. The grand dining hall is an apartment regal in its character. Its dimensions are 64 feet wide by y6 feet long, and 27 feet 6 inches high. The architectural I decorations are of the rich old Corinthian order, treated freely in the modern French style. Massive Corinthian columns, with gilded flutings, support a frescoed ceiling, which is said to be the finest in America, while at each end of the room are monu- mental doorways, rich in statuary, sculpture, and bas-relievo. These connect the grand hall with other dining halls, less in size, but all elaborately decorated. A vtry eminent Spanish artist, whom it was our h' ;j] iness to meet here and elsewhere, considered this J ! ill 4 saloon closely resembled the one at Stafford H(ni -c, London ; certainly, when lighted at night and filled V ich some three or four hundred guests, it pre- sented a regal appearance, and all that seemed requisite to render it perfect to English taste, was a carpet to prevent the noise caused by walk- ing on the beautiful marble floor. In the grand .•arlour — 62 feet in length by 26 feet in width — is a nji^rnificent Axmister carpet, woven in one piece to ht this espet'al apartment ; and the architectural adornments and fittings are of a most superb and elegant character. The upholstering is entirely of M-|i < i 136 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. satins and velvets, and the frescoes are of the most delicate and rare tints. There are several minor drawing or conversational rooms, also an Egyptian parlour, furnished in perfect taste. Elegantly dressed women, bedecked with jewellery, pass days and months in these sumptuous abodes, freed from the cares of home duties, but strangers to the charms and influences of the home circle. We look upnn these monster hotels as huge show houses, with oni ^ e and there a touch of reality or comfort ; but if su^li hotels do not commend them- selves to all Englishmen, their management is infinitely superior to anything in the old country, and we do not wonder at Americans feeling surprised that in this particular the English people do not imitate them. A bill of fare at one of these hotels is a curiosity, and the colored servants need an excellent memory to supply the varied dishes asked for. It is no uncon.mon thing, for instance, for a guest to order from ten fo fifteen dishes, including vegetables ; the more ycu order, the better " darkey " seems pleased, and he \s seldom known to make a mistake. There was one man at the Palmer House who received hats and coats from gentlemen entering the dining saloon ; he had such a prodigious memory that he would appor- tion each owner his right hat or coat on leaving the room. The Americans are very extravagant at table, partaking a little of this and a little of the other, and rejecting sufficient to make a good meal. We very much missed the quiet sociability of an English dinner table. Mere children are also introduced at the public dining table, dressed was and he )por- the It at le of jood nVity are Issed AMERICAN HOTELS. 1 37 either like dolls or old people, and prepared to order their dinner with as consequential an air as those of older growth. Each one sitting at table seems intent on eating faster than his neighbour ; and the moment you are " through," the attendant is ready to withdraw your chair ; none are expected to linger even over a cup of coffee. There is the same "hurrying up" in churches; hardlj/ is the benediction pronounced before the members of the congregation are half- way down the aisle. If a vegetarian should visit these hotels, he will find no lack of food to suit his taste ; and many of the vegetables are exquisitely cooked and are highly nutritious. In connection with all American hotels there is a hair-dressing and shaving saloon where the guests can be accommodated. But the process is slow and the charges exorbitant. We heard of a customer who was pleading with the principal of one of these saloons for a reduction of charges " these bad times." Said the barber, ** I guess we cannot, for in bad times our trouble is increased ; gentlemen pull such very long faces!" The Americans do not wear side whiskers, and seem very much at their ease whilst the *' artist " ren- ders their face and head about as bare as a prairie. We were told that in some saloons females handle the razor with great dexterity and success. In these hotels, railroad tickets can be purchased ; places can also be secured for theatres and public amusements. There is nearly always a drug store and an outfitting establishment in connection with them ; indeed if the visitor has the dollar, the hotel proprietor will find its equivalent. But the dollar is a necessity, and no where more so than at the hotel bars. Drinks a 'II li!. m^ '• 138 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. expensive. Almost every variety is offered, and some are very delicious. The rule is to drink the brandy or whisky at its full strength, and the water (if any) after. But when we were invited to take a "smile" of this sort, we did otherwise. It is hard to estimate the drinking customs of America, though we are in- clined to think there is a great deal more drinking than is necessary. At all events we certainly did not observe much less drinking in connection with hotel life in America than there is in England. In private families we are disposed to think there is considerably less. We were travelling with two or three gentle- men to a western city ; one had sought an introduc- tion to an eminent trading firm, in which were two partners ; his instructions were "Ask for John, he drinks — other brother an abstainer. John also drinks betzveen drinks !'' One admirable hotel custom is deserving of notice and commendation. It is prevalent throughout the States, and probably is nowhere more rigorously observed than in the Eastern States. We allude to the facilities almost everywhere offered for water drinking. In order to make ourselves understood, let us say that in most English hotels and restaurants, water must be asked for before it can be obtained. And sometimes when you do ask, the waiter does not place it before you with the best of grace. Ask him for the wine card, and he will bring it you with the most accomplished bow ; indeed so ready is he to oblige in this respect that your wishes are often anticipated, and the professional " cellarman " appears dreadfully shocked if you should by accident ask him for a bottle of soda or German seltzer. ( e V c lii lot lim Ihe I to len irs Im AMERICAN HOTELS. 1 39 The moment you order a repast in America, a {^lass of iced water is placed beside you, renewed as often as you like, and with a willingness that is particularly pleasant. Fountains, filters, or plated jugs of pure water are to be found in most recption- rooms of an hotel, in all saloons, public halls, railway cars, river boats, &c. Hence there is no excuse for indulgence in intoxicating drinks ; for, deplorable as the habit of taking stimulants is, it is a thousand fold worse when pure water is always before you. We should like to see this American custom common in England. It is satisfactory to know that the necessity for providing a wholesome and harmless drink is to a greater extent being recognized ; street fountains have multiplied of late years, though as a rule they are inadequate to general requirements ; some of the waiting rooms at railway stations are professedly supplied, though the water to be found there is frequently stagnant and undrinkable ; and in the last public building erected in Macclesfield, the Free Library, (a noble gift by Mr. David Chadwick, the junior member for the Borough) a water fountain is included, and is much appreciated. Once let the water flagon become fashionable, by the example of those who can lead society, and it will then have an increasing number of admirers ; for Example is a living law whose sway Men more than all the written laws obey. Mr. Walter, M.P., (who by the way was a passenger on board the " Russia ") has delivered a very inter- esting address since his return from America from whxh we find he became fond of " Lager beer. ' So did we, and we heartily join our wishes with Mr. i ! ! i fW ir. m hi m : F40 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. Walter's that this enjoyable beverage may be intro- duced more extensively into England, and take the place of much of the heavy and hurtful compounds known as beer, which is consumed here. Working men in America are dealt with very severely by their employers. We have heard of a rule being adopted by a well-known London firm, to this effect, " Young men are not allowed to wear a moustache or beard during business hours." There is an equally stringent rule in operation by employers in America, with reference to drunkenness ; and (as we have already recorded in the case of one eminent firm) a second offence ensures instant dismissal. This strict rule no doubt exercises a wholesome influence, and in very many cases operates as a che k to over-indulgence. The drinking customs in both countries have become a frightful curse ; and one can but suppose that the inferior quality of the liquor consumed has more to do with producing intoxication than is generally thought ; if so, le^ the adulteration act be made thoroughly effective m its operation. Before parting with hotels, we may remark that they all have more or less of a speciality. On our first visit to Boston we stayed at the Tremont House ; on a second visit we decided to try the Parker House, which is conducted on what is knov/n as the European plan. After a week's experience, however, we were led to prefer the quiet and excellent arrange- ments of the former, in preference to the noise and bustle of the latter. In Chicago, again, we should prefer the " Grand Pacific," a large, but much quieter, hotel than the Parker House. The hotel system, however, is so thorough in all the large cities of Ind lid ter, [m, of AMERICAN HOTELS. 141 America, that houses are to be met with to suit every variety of taste ; buildings are to be found which will accommodate from 300 to 1,000 guests; and they possess the merit of being adapted in every way to the wants of the people. In them All can feast without providing, On every dainty you can think of, Every '"drink " which you would drink of. II 11 iiiiHti 1 1' fW V El • 142 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. XIII. 1 > ti ■if 'il m mm! :M CHICAGO. N order to reach Chicago, distant from New York 1000 miles, we left Paterson for Newark, (New Jersey), where, at nine o'clock on Tuesday even- ing we joined the mail train on the Pennsylvania Railroad, and reached the great and rising city of the West, on the following Thursday morning. We paid a little extra for the novelty and luxury of a Pullman Palace Hotel Coach, in which we lived and moved the whole journey. Unfortunately the Americans, especially the ladies, accustom themselves to very warm rooms ; exercise they seem to dislike, and the consequence is that in some of these splendid cars the laws of health are set at defiance. Unless you can " square" the conductor, you are miserable for want of a little ventilation ; and as a colored attendant regu- lates the stove, your case is well nigh hopeless, for these fellows are almost fire proof We ventured to remonstrate at what was to us a source of consider- able discomfort, but the reply was, " the ladies in the next section would take cold." Under the circum- stances we took a cigar, and retired to the smoke-room, where the conductor, pitying our condition, opened the ventilator. Apart from this drawback, there is everything in the cars to make the long journey pleasant. The scenery on the road is very fine, es- pecially about the great " Horse Shoe Bend," where the road climbs the Alleghanys. Several manufac- aoMP CHICAGO. 143 turin^ centres are passed ; telegraphic news from all parts of Europe anticipate our arrival at the different stations, and morning and evening the newsboy ap- pears with the welcome newspapers. Meals can be had en voyage at all hours. We, however, selected the customary hours — breakfast eight o'clock, lunch at one, and dinner at six. It would make onchungry,even now, to recite the " Bill of Fare." So we content ourselves with saying that the variety (excepting fish) was equal to that offered at a first-class Paris restaurant. Every- thing was well cooked and beautifully served. Some people cannot sleep well in a " Pullman," but our re- pose was sweet, and of one thing we are quite certain, that the fatigue of railroad travel in America is in- finitely less than in England. We have often felt more tired in a two hundred miles journey in a Lon- don and North Western first-class carriage than we did in America in five times the distance in a Palace Car. The roads are not so well laid as in England, but the construction of the cars gives a steadiness which reminds one of the stability of a " Cunarder" compared with the frolics of a Dover and Calais steamer. For miles before reaching the Great Western city, our train ran over a flat plain of country, bounded by the horizon. Numerous railroads indl i.ted our approach to Chicago, and on arrival, giving our " checks" to the baggage master, we were soon located at the " Palmer House," and at once realised the stately grandeur of this magnificent hotel, of which we have already given some description. Chicago is situated on the West shore of Lake Michigan. The foundations of the city bordering on lai ill U' lit' 1:f 144 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. the lake have been raised 14 feet above the lake by the energy of the inhabitants, its site originally having been on a dead level with the water. The western part of the city is an inclined plane, rising towards the west to the height of 28 feet, thus giving good drainage through miles of well-constructed sewers. The unparalleled growth of the city is shown from the following facts : At the close of 1830 it contained twelve houses and three '' country residences " in what is now Madison-street, with a population (composed of whites, half-breeds, and blacks) of about one hundred. In i860 the population had reached to near a hundred thousand, and to-day it is said to exceed five hundred and thirty thousand. On Sunday evening, October 8th, 1 87 1, the lamp was upset in a stable filled with hay, in the Southern part of the city, which kindled one of the most destructive conflagations on record over 17,000 buildings were destroyed, 98,000 persons rendered homeless, and about 200 killed ; th»i total area over which the fire spread was nearly three-and- a-quarter square miles, and the total loss was $i9c\ooo,ooo, (;^i 8,000,000 sterling) of which about $44,c 00,000 (;^8,8oo,ooo) was recovered on insurance, though one of the first results of the fire was to render bankrupt many of the insurance companies all over the country. The business of the city was interrupted but for a short time ; architects and builders flocked from all parts to assist in the rebuilding ; wooden structures were extemporised ; and in one year after the fire a large portion of the burnt district had been rebuilt. Two years later, in July, 1874, another great fire swept over the city, destroying eighteen blocks of building extending over sixty acres, in the heart of i\ ' I f )f CHICAGO. 145 the city, comprising in value some $4,cxx),ooo, (;{^8oo,C)OOj together with 600 houses the larger number of which, foitunately, were old wooden shanties. Nearly all the principal structures f the rebuilt section escaped. It is worth while to recount these particulars, before inviting the reader to accompany us, in imagi- nation, to this wonderful centre of rapidly-acquired wealth and commercial importance, for at present there does not remain very many traces of the stupendous devastation. We met with those who related heart-rending tales of the Great Fire, from which it appeared that the sufferings of those who managed to escape were something terrible. Sick and dying men, women, and children had to be hurriedly conveyed away to the prairie or the lake sands. The waterworks were early destroyed. The city seemed doomed ; conveyances were not to be had in sufficient numbers either for love or money ; excessive charges were made, and readily paid ; thousands assembled on the open plain bereft of home, property, and clothing, and to this day people shake their heads with poignant feelings of horror and sadness, at the remembrance of the unparalleled disasters, and implore that the anguish of that dreadful visitation may not be recalled. Let the following graphic summary, which we read during our visit, suffice for our further reference to it : " As a spectacle it was beyond doubt the grandest as well as most appalling ever offered to mortal eyes. From any elevated standpoint the appearance was that of a vast ocean of flame, sweeping in mile-long billows and breakers over the doomed city. A square of substantial buildings would be submerged by it like li ; p. ^'^h \]'t t'f/'i^ III 146 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. a child's tiny heap of sand on the sea shore, and when the flood receded there was no more left of the stately block than of the tiny sand heap. Anon the devouring element would present itself as if in a personal form, and seize upon a masterpiece of archi- tecture as if it would say to the pale faces around and below, ' See now, here is a pile of massive marble ; you built it with great pains, and thought you had something substantial. Mark now what a bubble it is. Pifff And the proud dome collapsed, and stately wall and ornate capital — 'all, mingling, fell!' nor left a vestige of their former splendour. Added to the spectacular elements of the conflagration, — the intense and lurid light, the sea of red and black, and the spires and pyramids of flame shooting into the heavens, was its constant and terrible roar, drowning even the voices of the shrieking multitude. And ever and anon — for awhile as often as every half-minute — resounded far and wide the rapid detonations of explosions, or of failing walls. In short, all sights and sounds, which terrify the weak and appal the strong, abounded. But they were only the accompaniment which the orchestra of Nature was furnishing to the terrible tragedy then being enacted, in which the fate of every person of that surging throng was virtually involved." One suggestive incident of which we heard, in connection with the Fire, is worthy of mention. A little hut, built of half-burnt logs and boards, was raised amid the smouldering fire ruins, the first sign of the restoration of that desolated city, and on the fron<: was placed this inscription : WILLIAM D. KERFOOT, All gone, except wife, children, and energy. !il! CHICAGO. 147 The Chicagv-) of to-day is the finest city of modern times. Her streets and avenues extend far as the eye can reach ; the business blocks are magnificent, the streets being so v/ide that the superior proportions of the houses are seen to goodly effect. Outside the trading portion, the avenues are some twenty yards wide, with every variety of palatial residences on either side, removed from the footpath some twelve or fifteen yprds, and intersected by trees and ornamental gardens. Boulevards (on which buildings seem to be springing up as if by magic) succeed these ; whilst at the two extremities of the city, are the Lincoln and other parks, laid out in perfect taste, and with drives and walks leading down to the margin of the inland sea. .i Since the great Fire, a most extraordinar}'' en- gineering feat has been accomplished for securing a practically unlimited water supply. Lake Michigan has heen *' tapped." A tunnel, extending from a shore shaft on the site of the water works building, has been run out for a distance of two miles under the lake. At this end a lake shaft has been sunk by means of a " coffer dam " ingeniously constructed. Through this " big bore," as the citizens term it, the cool waters of the lake find their way into a great well under the water works' building. From this huge reservoir the water is lifted to the stana-pipe, whence its own weight distributes it to every part of the city. The supply capacity of the water works is now 1 50,000,000 gallons daily ; there are 3,000 hydrants, and nearly 450 miles of water pipe^ As may be imagined, extraordinary precautions have been taken against a further " baptism of fire." ' No frame buildings of any kind are allowed to be m ifi'* I- If- ■'* 148 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. erected inside the limits of Chicago. No wooden cornices or wooden roofs are permitted, and no wooden buildings now in existence when damaged by fire to the amount of 50 per cent, are allowed to be repaired. The fire alarm telegraph system has been extended until there are now 400 miles of wire, and the like number of signal boxes. Once during our stay, in answer to an alarm, we observed the engines dashing about like squadrons of cavalry on the parade ground; in fact, the fire department finds work for 410 rnen, most of whom are veterans in the service. The grain trade of Chicago is enormous. A fleet of steamers and sailing ships traverse the lakes, making this city their principal port. " Grain eleva- tors '■ are a remarkable feature in this trade ; their utility consists in the rapid mode of loading or discharging vessels. We visited some of them here and at Buf- falo, and were greatly struck with their capabilities. To show the immense strides which this city has made as a commercial port, let the following figures speak for themselves : In 1838, the year after Chicago became a city, the shipments of grain were 78 quarters. Ten years later they had increased to 2,160,000 quarters. In the next decade they went up to nearly 9,000,000 quarters ; in 1868 they were 10,374,000, and in 1875 they were no less than 23,184,349 quarters. Such rapid and continuous growth is most unprecedented and marvellous. Numerous railroads centre in this remarkable city, but what perhaps strikes everybody as its most important feature is the great Union Stock Yards, which constitute the leading market for live stock — the greatest of its kind on the habitable globe. Busi- il! ill CHICAGO. 149 ness was commenced in these yards in December, 1865. The quantity of land controlled by the com- pany is 345 acres, the greatest portion of which is covered with lairs and pens. The capacity of the yards is 25,cxx) head of cattle, icx),ooo head of hogs, 22,000 sheep, and stalls for 500 horses. There are in the yards eight miles of streets and alleys, thirty- two miles of under drainage, three-and-a-half miles of water troughs, and ten miles of feed troughs. The yards are connected with all the railroads in the West, centering in Chicago. Tram-cars run also at stated intervals to and from the yard and the city. There is here a fine hotel, exchange, and bank, together with other offices, conveniently situated to all parts of the yards ; the whole placed in telegraphic communi- cation with the City Exchange. In these convenient business centres, the principal business relating to the arrival, sale, slaughtering, packing, and shipping of dead meat is transacted, and i* forms, as may be imagined, a very uncommon and 'important clement in the ordinary Exchange routine. The packing houses, to which our friend, Mr. Condell, kmdly introduced us, are located in the South-Western part of the city, adjoining the stock yards, so that stock from the yards is easily handled by the packers. The live porker conies in at one door and in a few moments has passed the different depart- ments and is hanging by the heels in the cooling room. Fifty-thousand hogs are thus disposed of in twenty-four hours. We saw over 45,000 hogs penned for slaughter, and in the establishment of Messrs. Armour over 4,500 pigs were turned into pork the day we visited it. The process is a very Li i li 150 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. summary one — once seen, never forgotten. Such a wholesale shambles is better imagined than described and the visitor who has once witnessed the details of this continuous slaughter, — lived as it were amid streams of blood, clouds of saline steam from the brine pits, and in a rank atmosphere of unpleasant odours — seldom desires to repeat his visit. Before the meat is packed, every portion is examined by inspectors, specially appointed ; and we were pleased to learn that great confidence is reposed in their judgment and fairness. Cattle and hogs are purchased in this market, and distributed through the States of Indiana, Ohio, Michigan, &c. for feeding purposes ; others are fattened by Illinois and Wisconsin farmers. Summer-packed meats are so growing in favour that it is likely the process will be continuous, and the intervention of the vacation from March to October, hitherto ob- served, will probably be dispensed with. The already immense business is rapidily increasing, as hogs are now received in large numbers from Texas and the Indian territory. The following figures shew the growth of the packing trade during the last twenty years : Number of Cattle packed in reason 1851-2 . 21,806 ,, „ ,, 1874-5 . 41.192 Hogs ,, ,, 1851-2 . 22,038 1874-5 . 1,871,896 tt tt •»» ♦> These figures are reliable, and point out the wonderful manner in which Chicago has developed this impor- tant industry, having sometime since distanced her great competitor, Cincinnati. The American beef trade is only, however, in its LIP CHICAGO. 151 infancy. Canada also is making extensive prepara- tions to export both live and dead stock to Europe, and the quality of the mutton sent from Canada is unsurpassed. The beasts from which the American beef is obtained are mostly from Lower Canada, Illinois, and the Western States. They roam over the prairies in largv" and practically unowned herds. They are either mssooed or driven into pens, from which they are sent to New York, and in one establishment alone 700 beasts have been killed and dressed in one day. During our stay in America, conversing with several eminent stock-breeders and packers, we learnt that great efforts were about to be made to supply the European and English markets, and the subsequent trade has abundantly confirmed the inpression, based on the information we received, that the price of beef must ere long be reduced. We shall be glad if it is so, in order that the industrious classes mav find good meat (such as the American beef undoubt- edly is) more easily within their reach. We were unable to pay any considerable attention to the numerous fine buildings which adorn the city, as the short period of our stay did not give us the opportunicy. One perfect gem of decorative art is the Union Club House, the resort c^ a private Club, the members of which we were privileged to meet ; and our acknowledgments are due to its president, Mr. Fairbank, and also to Mr. Fisher, for polite attention. We also met at the rooms of a mutual friend. Dr. Rauch, with whom we had an interesting conversation as to sanitary matters. The sanitarians of Chicago have to work on a large scale, for the stock yards ;■■• 152 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. alone produce 200 tons of offal daily. At present this is swept away by the Illinois river, which has been diverted, so as to take in the entire sewage of the city. A visitor standing on one of the bridges, can see the murkey stream passing slowly southward on its way to the Gulf of Mexico, bearing the offal of the city away with it. As it would appear, water in this instance has been made to run up hill ; the contrary, of course is the fact, as the Mississippi into which the Illinois river runs, is several feet lower. In our conver- sation on this and other matters with Dr. Rauch, he assured us that he was intimately acquainted with the English Board of Health Reports, and had been particularly pleased with those relating to Macclesfield. If we have not given prominence to the churches and charitable institutions of Chicago, it is because we wished to point out the industry which creates the wealth to erect the splendid religious buildings and hospitals with which the city abounds. We were told that men here both make and spend money rapidly, and we can very well believe it. Certainly everybody looked happy and jaunty, and for some reason or other we felt the charm which attaches itself to life in a new city in a new world. Everything seemed young, and in a state of rapid transition to a beautiful perfection. Imagination led us to picture many of the ancient cities of Europe, sitting amid the dust of their former splendour, and wrapped in the m.antle of decay ; and to compare the ruined grandeur of a Memphis or a Rome with the giant-like vigour of this and other youthful cities of the New World. There seems, in this respect, as m?ich difference between the I1 CHICAGO. 153 New and the Old as between the activity of youth and the decrepitude of age. Messrs. Moody and Sankey were drawing immense crowds to the Chicago Tabernacle at the time of our visit. The Sunday we spent here we purposed attending the half-past six o'clock service, but on our arrival at the doors an hour before the time we found them besieged by hundreds of people unable to gain admittance, and entirely in consequence of the bulk of the afternoon congregation preferring to remain. We had reluctantly to turn away. Next day we attended the noon experience meeting, at which crowds assembled. We cannot say we altogether enjoyed listening to the various experiences, though a tone of serious earnestness characterised the audience, and many were visibly affected as one distant penitent after another, sought by telegram or letter the prayers of the assembly. Mr. Sankey's pleasant voice gave a pathos to words and music which h<^ has rendered familiar to Christendom, whilst Mr. Moody spoke with r.mch simplicity and impressiveness, unfolding the Divine message of love to man. Chicago is well provided with stores for dry goods and fancy articles. The shops are both numerous and elegant, and the costumes of tlu'e ladies alforded a pleasing evidence of their appreciation of the latest European fashions. Judging also from their charming signs of robust health, this very interesting city is as healthy as undoubtedly it is wealthy. We left it with regret after a very agreeable visit, and turned our faces Eastward, anticipating the Christmas welcome awaiting us across the wintry Atlantic. L 154 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. XIV. HOMEWARD BOUND. [EAVING the Chicago depot of the Illinois Central Railroad, at 5 p.m., we reached Cleveland, Ohio, at seven next morning. Cleveland is a comparatively new town, principally celebrated for its iron trade and other industries, and it has a population of upwards of 150,000. We had accepted the invitation of an old college friend of one of our party to dine at the club, previously to which we were driven by him down " Euclid Avenue " and round the suburbs. During our brief i)Ut pleasant stay we saw and heard enough of Cleveland to convince us of the rapid growth and activity of the place, though just at that time the iron trade was much depressed. Our friend entertained us wuh much cordiality, and we are not likely soon to forget his kindness or the fine dimensions of " Euclid Avenue." Taking the cars, we travelled over the ill-fated Atlantic and Great Western Railroad to Meadsville. Our track was through a portion of the great oil district. The McHenry Hotel at the depot was closed, and better would it have been for the share- holders if it had never been opened. The Americans seem to have relinquished the line to English blundering and gross extravagance. Meadsville is beautifully situated, though for some reason or other it does not seem to have flourished. If the railroad had done so, probably it would have ed le. oil as re- nns ve HOMEWARD BOUND. I 55 followed suit. Our time and a snow storm interfered with a •. isit to the oil wells, but their powerful aroma could Le distinguised a long way off. We joined the Western mail here early next day ; delightful scenery accompanied us through the Indian Settlements, and very rapid trav^elling again over the famed Erie road, brought us to Paterson on the morning of Thanksgiving Day, November 30th. This day is now appointed a national holiday ; it is usual for the President to invite the nation to pour forth its thanksgiving for the mercies of the past, and to invoke a blessing on the future. Ministers of religion are expected to discourse on subjects of national interest and importance, and from a subsequent review of the sermons which proceeded from some of the more eminent ministers, the pulpit gave forth no " uncertain sound " concerning prominent national vices. It was our privilege to listen to the Rev. Dr. Magee, of the first Presbyterian church, who delivered a very eloquent and powerful address. And now the time arrived for terminating our very pleasant and enjoyable visit. There were many cordial adieus to be said; and affectionate messages to give and receive. On Wednesday, the 13th of December, we finally bade our kind friends, who accompanied us to the steamer, " good bye," and in a few hours afterwards America had faded from our view, but never from our recollection. Tlie good steamer in which we were sailing for Old England was the fine Clunarder, " The Algeria." The passen- gers were not very numerous, for few select the winter months for a pleasure voyage, and our own experience justified any fears which timid people might entertain 156 A CENTENNIAL TOUR. as to the pleasures of the winter passage across the Atlantic. The first night was rough and stormy ; changeable weather, accompanied with snow, con- tinued up to Sunday, when foul weather set in, and a fearful Atlantic storm ensued. Everything on deck was made taut and secure ; passengers were warned that it was dangerous to be on deck ; the wheel-house men were doubled, with auxiliaries at their side, ready for instant duty ; and the captain (a fine seaman) and all the officers were at their respective posts, braced up for the severe struggle with the waves. The ship rolled frightfully ; the tempest continued to increase, and about ten o'clock on Wednesday night a terrible sea struck the ship, carrying away the iron davits and four boats, two of which were driven under the bridge, and, knocking into splinters the bulkhead over the fore companion way and the dead lights, admitted the sea into many of the state-rooms, to a depth of about two feet, and likewise into the engine-room, The bridge on which the officers were standing was loosened, and many of the crew were thrown about like nine-pins. The shock was fearful, and the noise hideous. Happily the ship proved strong and the seamen brave, but the night was a long and anxious one, and at one time home seemed very distant. The tempest roared, and the lightning played with fearful vividness ; and as she met wave after wave, the noble vessel quivered from stem to stern. Fortunately the engine pumps were only slightly damaged, but the four boats were rendered entirely useless. The scene next morning was awfully grand ; the sea was still mountains high ; the deck was strewn with debris ; HOMEWARD BOUND. 1 57 the vessel was running before the gale, and the fear was that the giant waves might overtake and engulph her in their mighty depths. To the great relief of all on board, the wind at length moderated, the sea became less angry, and our spirits sympathised with the rising barometer. Ere long we had passed safely through the dreadful storm, and were safely — *' Rolling home to little England, — though so little yet so great, With her face of sunny beauty, anil lier heart as strong as fate ; With her men of honest nature, with her women good and fair, With her courage and her virtue, that can do as well as bear. When we awoke on Saturday morning, Queens- town harbour was in sight, and the extent of the danger from which we had been preserved was shewn by a large steamer stranded near the entrance ; while close by was the " City of Bristol," which had put back with the loss of several men. We landed mails and a few passengers, and after a calm sail across the channel, we anchored in the Mersey as the sound of the church bells fell on our ears. By the time the curfew tolled on Christmas eve, a protecting Providence had brought us safely home. S3-'0>'^^<.3r'\>- IC^ 159 APPENDIX. The Patcrson Daily Press o( the lithand 1 2th December, devoted its coKmins to a full account of an interesting Social Gathering which took place at the rooms of the Paterson Silk Association on the 9th December, 1876, at which the writer had the honour of being present as the guest of many of his Macclesfield fellow-townsmen resident in that interesting com- munity. In recognition of the spontaneous courtesy and kind- ness shewn to him on that occasion, and throughout his stay at Paterson, it is his pleasure, in this record of his journey, to give that gathering prominence by this particular notice. lie is saved the necessity of extracting from the copious report given by the Paterson paper, from the fact that it has already been copied into the widely-spread columns of the Macclesfield Courier. He had the pleasure of receiving from his Paterson friends an Address which will always be prized as a most valued memento of his visit ; and he was also the subject of many kind references, which he now takes the opportunity of very cordially reciprocating. y MACCLKSFIELD : SWINNERTON AND HKOWN, PRINTERS. ; ^