IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1,^ |iO •■■ ill I.I •" — i 2.5 2.2 m :: lis iiiio m 1.25 |U III'-* < 6" — »• nont fiimAs en commenpant par la premiere pays qui comporte une empreinte d'Impresslon ou d'illustration et en termlnant par ia dernlAre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol —<► (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Un des symboles suivsnts apparaltra sur la dernlAre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols — »> signlfie "A SUIVRE", le symbols V signlfie "FIN". Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included In one exposure are filmed beginning In the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams Illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent 6tre filmis A des taux de reduction diff fronts. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul cliche, II est fllm6 i partir de Tangle sup^irieur gauche, de gauche A drolte, et de haut en bas. en prenant le nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes sulvants lliustrent la mAthode. rrata o jelure. 1 2 3 2 □ 32X 6 I i«i«, umuiu c. B ON CAiNADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY. DESCRIPTION OK THK OI'N'TUV Between Lake Superior AN1> TIIK PACIFIC OCEAN, ON THE LINE OF THE CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY. Cominlt'd from the he$t Authorilies, and Published by Order of th* Canadian Government. OTTAWA, NOVEMBER. 1876. 'II i -i 1 I n' I0l\\'\ INTRODUCTION. The following pages arc designed to furnish a concise and, as far as can be com- piled from independent sources, complete description of the jillysical features of the country lying in the Territory of the Dominion of Canada between Thunder Bay, at the head of Lake Superior, and the Pacific Ocean, through which it is proposed to continue the construction of the Canadian Pacific Railway, ah-cady partially built between Lake Superior and Red River. The compilation is principally meant to be a supplement to the more exact and technical reports of the Engineer, for the information of intending contractors who may desire a knowledge of the geneial features of the country. Papers laid before the Imperial and Canadian Parliaments, reports of Govern- ment Engineers, observations made by residents, and accounts published by trust- worthy travellers form the substance of the compilation. Authorities are given in every instance, and copious Indices furnish a ready means of access to the facts. The Government do not guarantee the absolute nccnrary of any statement, but there is no reason to behove that the extracts contnin u'vvfhing that is not reliable. ^ CLASSIFICATION. • TAGK. 1. INTRODUCTION iii 2. CONTENTS OF CHAPTERS vii a GENERAL INDEX : xi 1. UST OF AUTHORS QUOTED xxxi .'5. IJST OF WORKS QUOTED xxxv . CHAPTER I.— FROM THUNDER BAY TO RED RIVER 1 10. CHAPTER II.— FROM RED RIVER TO SOUTH SASKATCHEWAN RIVER ir, 11. CHAPTER III— SOIL, CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS OF LAKE WINNIPEG BASIN :i:{ 12. CHAPTER IV.— FROM THE SOUTH SASKATCHEWAN CROSSING TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS 17 V). CHAPTER v.— THE BRITISH COLUMBIA SECTION fio n. APPENDIX TO CHAPTER V.-REPORTS BY MARCUS SMiTH, K^y., OF SURVEYS IN BRITISH COLUMBIA DURING THE YEARS 1874-.'; m 15. CHAPTER VL -MISCELLANEOUS 12(5 •t. '.*:>.!, -T*. i I. COn^TEZsTTS CHAPTER I. - FROM TIIUNDEU BAY TO RED RIVER. Elevation of Lake Superior — Thunder Bay — Kamiuistiquia Valley — Geological Struc- ture — Terraces of Lake Superior Basin — Kakabeka Falls — Mouth of Eamini- stiquia River — Magnetic Iron Ores — McKay's Mountain — Alluvial Valleys — Geology of Dog Lake — Drainage of Countiy — Elevations — Divide at Rat Portage — Water Communication — Height of Land — From Keewatiu to Sel- kirk — Gold — Copper — Iron — Prairie Steppes — Vicinity of Red River — Lake of the Woods — Swamps — Lake Winnipeg — Direction of Rivers — Fort Garry — Roads — Winnipeg River — Islington Mission — Soil — Vegetation — Timber — Mines of Lake Superior — Climate — Temperatures — Capabilities for Settlement — Building Material — Thunder Bay Mines — Altitude of Watershed — Gra- dients pages 1-14. CHAPTER 11. inxOli RED RIVER TO SOCTII SASKATCHEWAN RIVl^l. t'hysical Characteristics — Elevation of Prairie Steppes — Composition of the Plains- - River Valleys — The Northern Forest — Prairie Fires — Direction of Rivers — Superficial Deposits — Huronian Boulders — Geology of the Plains — Lakes and Rivers — Hills and Mountains — W^oods — Prairie Openings — Slope of the Plains — Geology of Lake Winnipeg — Touchwood Hills — Strata on Swan Ilivor — Yellow Ochre Springs — Sulphate of Soda — Coal Fields of the Saskatchewan — Maple Sugar — Forests of Riding and Duck Mountains — The Treeless Region — Fort Pelly — Fertility of the Land — Area of available Land — Physical Geography — Rise from Fort Garry to Edmonton — A Noble River — Banks of the Saskat- chewan — Beauties of Touchwood Hills — The Great Salt Plain — Prairie Lakes — Waterfowl — Breadth and Depth of the Saskatchewan — Red River — Area of Lak^B Winnipeg, Wimiipegoosis and Manitoba — Soil — Navigation — Coal Plenti- ful — Area drained by the Sooth Saskatchewan pages 15-32. vUi CHAPTER III. SOIL, CLIMATE AND PKODrCTIONS OF LAKE WlNNIPEd UASIN. Division:; of the Seasous — Buffalo Wintering Grounds — Average Fall of Snow — Blodget on Wheat Production — Average Yield per Acre — Extent of Farming Country — Pasture Lands — Fresh and Saline Lakes — Settlements — Churcli Missions — Forest Region — Muskegs — FertiUty of Peace River Section — Agri- cultural Area — Favorahle Disposition of Soil and Climate — Value of Natural I'fsourccs — Timber —Lignite — Coal — Iron Ore — Navigable Rivers — Hudson Day Company's Steamer — Imperial Reports — Favorable Route for a Railroad — Cost of Transport — Isothermal Lines — Blodget' s Climatology — Prairie Country compared witli Europe — Rainfall — Lord Selkirk — Grass of the Plains — Immen- sity of Cultivable Land — The Finest Pasture Country in the World — Uealthy Climate — Richness of Soil — Crops at Battle River — Frosts — Barley — Opening: of Spring — Temperature — A Good Stock Raising Country — Fitness for Settle- ment — Character of Soil — Divisions of the Territories — The Future Granary of the Dominion — Snowfall — Boring Operations — Desert Lands — Water Supply — Ironstones — Peat — Salt pages 83-40. CHAPTER IV. FROM THE SOUTH SASKATCHEWAN CROSSING TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. Width of the Soutli Branch — Extent of the Valley — Distance to North Branch — Country between the Two Rivera — Confluence of the Two Branches — Woods — Grasses — Contour of the Land — Fertile Soil — Fires — Coal at Edmonton — Character of River Valleys — Topography of the Prairies — Beauty and Ferti- lity — Coal on Pembina River — Wooded Country — Ascent of McLeod River — Cliffs on tlie Athabasca — Terraced Valleys — Jasper Valley— Miette River- Caledonia Valley — Yellow Head Pass — Country between Thickwood Hills and Jaukfish Lake — Tracts of excellent Soil — Rich Land between Victoria and Edmonton — Plenty of Timber and Water — Coal on Battle River — Fire Bound- aries — Course of the North Saskatchewan — Line of Hills — Rich Pasturage — Eligible Agriciiltural Lauds — Brick Earth and Potter's Clay — Climate — Future of the Saskatchewan — Soap-Clay — Coal on Brazeau River — Geological Forma- tion — ^Vastness of Coal Fields — Gold — Iron Ore — Coal at Termini of C. P. Railway — Approach to the Roeky Mountains — Country between Rocky Moun- tain House and Edmonton — Beaver Hills — Battle River Country — From South Elbow of the Saskatchewan to Battle River Junction .pages 47-G4« !-■ IX CHAPTER V. TTTE nrJTISII COLU^miA SKCTION. Formation of the Rocky ?iIouutains — Descent into British Cohiinbia - Elevation of Yellow Head Pass — Favorable Line for Railway — Gradients -Dri(lj,'injj; of Rivers— The Waddington Route — Limit of British Col umbiii— Valley of the Fraser — Water Communication — Gold Di<»gings — Peace River —Beauty of the Uocky Mountains— "Winter on the Athabasca — The Throe Rocky Ran<,'C's — ^^oose Lake — Grand Forks of the Fraser— Tete .Tninio ('■>che — Course of the Fraser — Character of Rivers— Engineering Difliculli —Pusses through the Rocky Mountains — Longitudinal "Valleys — Fort St, Goorge — Mackenzie Pkiver — Columbia River — Sir Alexander Mackenzie — F it Alotandrin Divisions ol' Mainland of British Columbia — Climate — Mhiuig Di.^tric; -Forests- Valleys in Bri't^V. Columbia — Nature of Soil — Roadi — Resourct ; of British Columbia — Cascade Mountains- -Report of Lieut. Palmer — Siowarfs Lake — The Central i-Iateau — Bute Inlet Route — Coast of British Columbia — Harbors — Islands oa Coast — Vancouver and Queen Charlotte Islands - -Coal — Timber— Lead — Iron — Fisheries — Navigation — Desolation Sound —Soil — CHniate — Produc- tions puji'i^^ r»t-8H APPENDIX TO CHAPTER V. REPORTS BY MARCUS SMITH, Esq., OF SURVEYS IN BP.fTISII COLUMBIA DURING THE YEARS 1874-5. Gardner Channel Route — Examination of Passes through (.'ascade Mountains from Fraser River to Similkameen— Journey from Fort Hope to Valleys in South of British Columbia — Allison's Pass — Cattle Farms — R. C. Mission -Exploratory Journal on the Central Plateau— Result of Observations during Journey — Character of the Country — Surveying Operations — Operations during 1875- Homathco River — The Waddington Trail — The Cascade Mountains — Central Plateau — Journey from Dean Inlet across the Cascades by Salmon River Pass — Examination of Channels between the Islands at the Entrance to Bute Inlet — Gradients to the Cascade Mountains — Homatnco River and Valley — Table of Gradients — Survey from Dean Inlet to Junction in the Blackwatcr Valley, with Line from Bute Inlet to Yellow Head Pass — From Kemano Bay, on the Gardner Channel, to First Lake on the Eastern Slope of the Cascade Mountains— Survey of Kitlope Valley pages 89- 1 25 CHAPTER VI. , MISCELLANEOUS. , Indian Tribes and Treaties— Boundaries— Management of Tribes— Canadian Indian Policy— United States Indian Policy— Probable Eflfects of the Canadian Pacific Railway— Indian Population— The Mounted Police— White Population— Areas —Productions and Extent of the North-West Territories— Chmate— British Columbia described— The Oregon Treaty— Advantages of the Canadian Eoute —The Peace River Country— Sir Alexander Mackenzie— Richness, Beauty and Extent of the Peace River Country— Iron, Coal, Salt, Petroleum, Ac- Navigation through the Rocky Mountains— Botanical Report by Prof. Macoun— Climate of Peace River pages 12G-143 l!i! GENERAL INDEX. Aboriginal Population Abram's Gates Agassiz, Tour of A La Corne Fort, situation of Alexandria Fort, situation of Alexis Lakes Allison's Pass, summit of Ambush Coulee American Desert, The Areas of North-West Territories Arrow Lakes, The Arran Eapids Arrow River, banks of Assiniboino Eiver, building stone on " " banks of " " country adjacent to " " •' fertile area " " boring operations on " " sources of Athabasca River, country drained by '* " wheat raised on " " cattle winter, etc ** " terrace structure on ** ' climate " " described '• " coul on, " '* source of " Lake, elevation of ** • •' route by " Pass elevation of PlOE. 181 1 21 68 114 »y 60 41 182 71 115 17 12 17 18, 40 21 48 01 84, nr, 8.1 40 02 40, OH 48, 08 C8, 60 57 41 70 70 3di B. M «( m Babinc Lake, Salmon of Blackwatcr llivcr " Valley, gradients in Black Bay, situation of Blackberry River, plains on Baptiste River, mouth of Barkervillc, situation of Basquia Hills, country near Basalt Lake, altitude of Battle River, Indian com raised on... " " country described '* coal on *' prairies of •• " scenery at mouth of »♦ " curious strata on «» " coulees south of Bear River, mouth of •« " magnitude of Beaver, consequence of their work . . . Beaver Hills, country near «' " timber on Bell River, salt on Bella Coola Indians Bella-Houla Bay Bella Bella Belly River, source of Bcntiuck Arm Route " " North Big Hill, descrii>tion of Birch GiiUy, banks of Birch Hills, coimtry near Birdstail Creek, cretaceous shales on. Blodget, climatology of, quoted , Bloody Hills, description of Boring Oi)crations Bow Fort, situation of. Broken Head River, situation of. ... Brazcau River, coal near •• " gold on •• " pousrces of Page. 79 06, 120 128 1 97 57 74 18 122 88 49, 52, CO, 64 49, 56, 60 49 59 60 61 67 72 57 51 58 46 90 76 89 59 76 92 27, 28 62 27, 28 26 80, 87 27 48 60 T 52,64 62 68 XIU Page. Buffalo Cart Plain, The 28 Buialocs, wintering ground of 88 British Columbia, cUmate and soil of 43, 7-1, 80 " " coalin 64,80 " " information concerning 65 " " gold-bearing rocks of 71 '* " principal rivers of -. 71 " " divisions of 72,73 *' " mining district of 73 •' " valleys of 73 *• *' coast of 77 *' " harbors of 77,79 " " fisheries and timber of 78,79 " " Indians of 131 *' " aren of 184 Burrard Inlet, survey to 93 Bute Inlet, route to 69, 76, 77, 80, 121 " islands at mouth of ! 115 •• navigation of 115 0. Caledonia Valley, route through 48 Calling River, banks of I7 Campbell Island , 89 Canadian Pacific Railway, route between Manitoba an^ Lake Superior 14 ** '* " coimtry on line of 40 " '* " coal at termini of 55 " '* " coal along route of * 55 " '• " route between Yellow Head Piia.s and Ed- monton 60 . •• '•' " route to Bute Inlet 69 " " *' bridging over Prairie Rivers 47 " " " favorable line from Yellow Head Pass to Edmonton 60 " •* '* bridging rivers west of Edmonton 60 '* " *' gradients 00,08,122 •* " " the Waddinj;tou Route 60 '• *• " ballasting for 25 '* *' " ' iron and coal fur rails on line 54 " •' " effect of. 130 XIV I Page. Canada Pacific Bailway, advantages of 186 Canoe Biver G8 Carrot Biver, country near 24 Cariboo Mountains 67 " " goldmines 72 Carleton Fort, country near 22, 49 " " temperature at 89 •• " crops raised at 42 Cascade Mountains, altitude of 48 " «« Passes in 67, 68, 92, 109 " " described 77, 90, 104, 109 " " lead found in 78 " " timber 104 ** " journey across 112 •• " gradients in 117,121,122 Cedar Lake, situation of.... 82 Central Plateau ofB. Columbia 85, 36, 67 " " " «« " climate 48,70 " " " " '* described 75,76 •« «• " '• " routes across 75 «• " " " " railway facilities on 77 ♦« •» «' " " journey on 96 «« «« " " <' information concerning 104,114 Chimsaiiis, Indian Tribe of : '. . 90 CbUacoh Biver 96, 106, 120 " Valley gradients 119 Chisicut Lake, line to 96 «• " altitude of 118 Choshce Biver described 117 Chilancoh Valley 118 Ohilcoatcn Plain 67 •• Valley 75,96 " Biver, country near 76 (!liipwoyan Fort, land near 80 «' " temperature at 89 Clinton, B. C. climate at 74 Coal, deposits of. - 51, 62 •« «« character and extent of 55, 56 Cole's Falls • 81 Cochin Lake 108 Columbia Biver : 68, 71, 141 XY Connolly Fort, situation of Cowlitz liiver, coal on . . Cow-dung Lake, situation of Coquiballa Valley, character of Coldstream Valley, rich soil in Coulees, character of , Cranberry Kiver Cree Inf^ians, treaties with , Cross Bapid, the Cumberland House, wheat yi-own at " " temperature at , Page. 71 78 66 98 90 17,61 68 126, 130 81 84 89 D. Dauphin Lake, salt springs at " " prairies near " Eiver, situation of Deadman's Bapid Dean Channel, mountains crossing " " described " Inlet, line to Demi-Charge, the rapid Desert Lands, the " " boundaries of " " true character of Desolation Sound, described .., Dirt Hills, country near Discovery Passage Dog Lake, country around " " geological formation at Douglas Fir, uses for Duck Biver, situation of* " Mountain, situation of *' " elevation of " " surface deposits •' " character of soil, forests. . , " , " streams issiiing from " " farming country near ... . Dunvegan Fort, temperature at '* " thermometrical register at " elevation of •• 18 20, 30 19 64 89 91 121 81 44 45 45 80 16 115 2.9 4,5 109 19 19 21 22 23 24 28 89,42 42 7 XVI I3lr l<< E. Page. Eagle Hills, situation of 64 " ' •' elevation of ft9 •• " limit of 61 " Pass 70 " Lake, described •" 108 Ear Hills, coulees near 61 Edmonton Fort, country near 84, 47, 40, 55 *• " temperature 39 " coal at 47,58,03 " " rich mineral deposits at 55 Elbow, S. Saskatchewan 28 EUice Fort, country near 18, 34 «« •• " towards Touchwood Hills 25 " " boring operations at • 43 " " situation of 63 Eliguck Lake, position of 98 " «• gradients on 123 Eueuchu Valley, described 101 English Kiver, country near...! 5,49 Enz Lake, position of 103 Estero Basin, survey of 115 Euchinico Lake, line on 128 Evans Mount .... 116 ... p. Fanny's Mountain, described 102 Fertile Belt, agricultural capadty of 85 " " natural resources of 86 " '« extent of 41 " " basis of settlement 45 " " boundaries of ' 51 File Hill, country near... 24 '• •• fertile area of 24 Finlayson Channel 89 Fishing Lakes, banks of 17 Fitzhugh Sound, entrance to 92 Floating Ice River . 19 Foot Hills CO Francois Lake, journey to 96 " altitude of 103 i xvil Page. Fraser River, source of GO " " grand fork of 67,08 " •' course of 07,08,70 ♦* " road down valley of 07 " " navigation of 07 f " " described 09,71,100 coalon 107 " Fort, position of '. 104 Fraser Lake, agiiculturc ou 73 •« " view of 104,105 " Reaches 8{» French Mission, crops raised at 39 Frederic Arm, position of. 115 Fuca, Straits of 77 " " navigation of .. , 78 '* " lighthouses on... 78 a. Gardner Channel, route l)y 89, 124 •• " described 90,91 Garry Fort, road from 7 " climateat 88 Georgia, Straits of 115 Georgia, Gulf of 09, 70 George Fort, situation of 08 " sectiouat 121 Giscome Portage, country neai* * . - 100 Gold Mountains, direction of 07 Grand Canyon .,. Ill, 110 Grand Coteau, eastern limit of 01 *' Prairie, beauty of 95 Grand Rapid of the Saskatchewan i 18 Graham Reaches .... 89 Grant Trail, nature of the 93 Great Slave Lake 40 Green Lake, country near. 84 " •' road, crops raised on 84 Guuboat Channel... 89 I'} xviii H. Page. Heart Hill, altitude of 22 High Hills 60 Hope, on the Fraser G9, 92 Hickish Narrows 89 Homathco Pass 96 " •' portals of 108 '• River, east branch of '. 108 " " junction 109 Valley, nature of 109, 111, 116 Howse Pass, altitude of 70 Howe Sound 80 Hudson's Bay Basin, climate of 41, 42 Hudson's Hope 141 . I. ■- . ' Indian Tribes, and treaties 120, 127, 128 " •• population 131 «' " treatment of 130 Is-cul-taes-li River, direction of 97, 123, 124 Islington M'ision, wheat sown at 9 •' " seasons at .', 9 Isothermal lines .. 30, 38, 41 • ■■ : J.;,. Jasper House, cultivable land west of 86 situation of '. 57,00 " Valley, ingress to 4H Jackfish Lake, coimtry near 49, 52 " River 52 Jervis Inlet 80 Johnstone Strait, width of 77 ■ K. Kakabeka Falls, country neighboring , 8 " " agi'icultural area below 4 Kaministiquia, River Valley, capabilities for settlement, geology &c 2, 4, 6, 11 " terrace structure on 8 " harbour at mouth of 2 " navigation of 2, 11 XIX Kaministiquia, mineral deposits on •' Laurentian and Huroniau rocks on " soil on banks of' ** vegetation on *• climate on Kamloops Fort, line from, to New "Westminster " " road to Kamsquot River, Kemano River, month of " Valley, described " Bay, survey from Kereness, land near Keewatiu, geological formation at " mineral deposits near Kitlope River described Kitlope Valley, surveys in Kootanie Plain, prairies of Ivluskus Lake, abandoned post at .• KtlJuthsly Lake, position of L. Lac La Biclio, soil near Lake of the Woods, country near " " '« " timber " " " " islands in and climate of Lakes Saline " " fresh water " •' description of " " between the two Saskatchewans Laird Fort, wheat raised at Land, ratio of fertile Laura Passage Larimie Plains, the Laura Passage, route by Lonely Lake, outfall of. Lesser Slave Lake Lignite, deposits of Lilloet, road to Liquor TraflRc prohibited Little Boggy Creek, banks of Pack. 4 4 8, 9, 10 9, 10 11 67 74 91, 112 89 90 121 94 5,6 6 90 125 62 97 lOi} 84 6, 7, 12 9 11 25 26. 27 84 85 26 89 44 92 5 167 61,56 74 181 17 XX Little Touclnvootl Hills Fort *' Red River, crops raised at " Slave Lake, wheat raised at Loredo Sound, entrance to Lumpy Hill of the Woods, country near Lytton, situation of M. Mackenzie River , " " coal on •• " source of Mackenzie Sir Alexander, route followed by . McKay's Mountain, arable lands near McLeod's River, ascent of *' " coal on... , " Lake, temperature at McLaughlin Bay Maligne River, forests on 'Manitoba Lake, building stone on '♦ •' description of •* •' area of Manitoba Province, wells sunk in ♦• " soil of ** ♦' chmate '* *♦ snowfall in .*.... '• ♦' Indians of , Mattawin River, situation of Mexico, Great Table-land of Miette River, route along Milieu Riviere du Milk River, desert near ; Millbank Sound Mission Valley, Indians of Mississippi River, country west of Moose Woods " " timber at " " islands at •• '• description of •' River, situation of " Lake, " " Page. 26 89 85 9S 27 72 189 56 71 1)7, 08 1,8 48,57 56 74 89 10 12 16 19 17 17, 84, 88 83, 38 48 131 11 59 48 188 44 89,92 95 45 24 26 28 29 66 66,68 ni AOE. 26 89 85 92 27 72 Moose Lake, gradients at Mossy Portage Mount Carmel description of Mount St. Elias, position of Mount Brown, elevafion of MoTint Hooker, " " Mountain House, strata at " " country between and Edmontoi Miul River (Cliilacoli) Mudge Cape , N. Naeoontlooii Lake, ruute by < Nakosla or Stewart River Navigation of Thunder Bay " " Kaministiquia River " " "Water courses west of Thunder Bay " " Lakes Winnipeg, Winnipegoosis, and Manitoba •' * Lakes and rivers in North-West " by Steam " of Fraser River «« " Fuca Straits '* " British CoUimbia coast ♦• " Thompson River " north of Vancouver Island of Bute Inlet " through the Rocky Movmtains Nazco River, direction of " Valley 114, Nechaco River, and valley of 70, l»0, Nelson River, situation of Nettacoh River, situatiofi of Nepean Sound, entrance to Nepowewin Mission, situation of timberat Neshaw, north of Nestacho Lake, gradients on N'ghaco Lake, extent of Nicola Valley, trail in Nicolaume Valley Paok. 120 82 27 77 65 65 62 54 lOG 115 98 6J) 1 2 6 16 81 85 07 79 79 96 115 115 141 97 119, 123 102, 106 16 104 92 21 26 76 48 99 74, 96 92 xxu Nimpoli Lake, trail along Nine Mile Creek, position of Nodallos Channel, title in Northcoto, the steamer North-West TciTitories, climate of *. . . •' " " capacity to support population " " •« area of «♦ " " healthy climate of «' •« " division of •* •* " adajitabiiity for raih'oadH " " , " desert lands of «• ♦« " beauty of " •• •• northern slope of " " '• park -like country in ♦• " " Indians of •' •* " population of '• " " productions of Nose Hills, forest land on " Creek, character of Okinaguu lliver ^ . . < . Lake " Valley Oil Regions, extent of Ossoyas Lake, position of..! P. ' Pacitic Ocean, route to " " warm current in " " Canada on Parsnip River, country near .*..... Peace River, country drained by •* " source of " " spring opens at " " cattle winter at '• " wheat raised on " " climate of " " working railroads at '• " country described Page. 08 \m 1L5 81 86, 87 87 38, 182 41 41 43 44 48 59 09 131 132 138 (!0 GO 72 94 95 18 94 86 41 137 100 85, 130 69 39 40 42 42, 142 48 48, 186 ■■ xxm Peace River, coal ou " " gold discoveries on " " Pass, air currents in *• altitude of " " Indians Peak Mountains '. Pelly Fort, situation of " " boring operations at Pembina River, coal on " " described Pembina Mountain, country near " prairies near Pheasant Mouu* i •, fertile area of Phillip Arm, heaa of Pie Island, situation of Pine River Pass, elevation of f Pine Point, terraces at Pine River, described Pine Island Lake Pine Creek, situation of Pitt Fort, country near Plat Lake Police, Mounted Pootzeaks, Valley of. , , Plumper Channel ; Porcupine Hills, situation of. • • • • " " altitude, country near, timber, kc •' " siu'face deposits ; '• " clay-ironstones at Princess Royal Islands Princeton, situation of Prairie Portage, River valleys west of Prairie Country, seasons in .* " " character of 17, 40, 50, 00, " " nutritious grasses of Prince Albert Mission Priest's Rock Puget Sound " " coal near Puntzee Lake, country ueer Page. oU, 40 67 48 05, 70 181 69 24 48 48, 50 66 18 19. 24 116 1 70 02 188 18 24 :M, 47, 4!) 8 181 75 89 19 22 22 46 77 93,94 47 41 01, 03, 05, 76 60 84 57 77 78 108 XXIV h m i . '-" . ■ ■ ..".', Qnalcho Lake, position of Qu' Appelle River, desert near " " sources of Queen Charlotte Islands, situation of Quesnel mouth, position of " River Quokolt Indians, villapje of Rainy Lake, superhcial deposits " " forests near " River, diniate, &c ; " Hills, description of Rat Portage, divide near " '• geological formation at " " boring operations at Rat Creek, boring operations at Rascals Village, situation of Red Deer River, situation of " " coal on " " climate at " " Lake crops raised at Red Ochre Hills, country near Ked River, country east of «• " banks of " " country west of '• " prairies of " " " fertile area •' " tiiuber on " ' soil and fertility of , '* " source and direction , *• " Yvater supidy on Ritlmg Mountains, rocks on flanks of " " elevation of " •' timber on " " delightful country near Rivers, direction ol River Valleys, depth of 17, Robson's Peak i Page . 100 61 77 67 72 89 8 10 12 10 12 27 6 6 48 48 76 19 58, 56 86 42 16 7 17 29 18 19 20 21 24 29 29 80 46 18 81 U M 41 20, 47 ,01 68 Pf XXV i'AGK. Roche Miette -„ ,,„ o7, bo " Percee, situation of ir • XO Roches Rouges a* Rocky Mountain Portage jgy Rocky Mountains, navigation through j41 " " base of , yg country east of 45,48,02 approachto 5(}(.(5 elevation of 59^(55 " " valleys near eastern base of (j2 " ' route to China through (55 , beauty of (.7 '* " passes through 08 70 " " valleys in 7I Rupert's Land, Indians of •_ _ igj s. Sageninaga River, extensive forests on 10 Salmon Rivor, valley of j^jj jjg 221 " " siuvey on 221 " " Pass *...!!1'.!.'.V.V.V.'!! 112 Salmon, immense quantities of gO Salt Plain, great 07 Salt River, examination of I40 Salteaux, treaty mih the 220 180 Sand Hills Lake, banks of «. 27 Saskatchewan Country, geological formation IH " " area of... . __ 24 '* *• grazmg lands , 24 " *• character of 25 ** " climate and i)roductions of 42 " " iron dejoosits in 94 " " beauty of 55 •« River, forests at Grand Forks on 24 ** " North Branch, timber, coal and lignite. [85, 49, 51, 52, 55, 57, 03 " " " coimtry described 47,49,50,58,02 " !' " " sources of 50,51 " " " " cliraatoof 51 " " " " golden .r,i,5G • bendaof 57 XXVI Saskatchewan Eiver, North Branch, geological formation on " " " " sandstone cliffs and caves on . " " " *' description of " '* " depth of valley " Eiver, South Branch, forests on Pagk. 58, 62, 64 62 25 24, 29, 47 (1 description of character of soil at elbow breadth and depth . , chai-acter at Moose Woods area drained by desert south of crossing at. Star Mission, wheat raised at Stelacoh Eiver, described , . . Steppes, three prairie " altitude, boundaries, geology of " couaposition, fertility, rivers, vegetation &c. Stick Indians Stewart Island " Eiver, gradients on •* " journey to " " to Bute Inlet Lake Sturgeon, fisheries Sturgeon Lake, position of St. Albert Mission, wheat raised at St. Ann's Lake, country about " " settlement , " " track to St. George Fort, situation of St. James Fort, climate at St. John Fort, situation of St. Joseph, country near St. Paul Mission, country near Sumallow Valley Superior Lake, elevation, fluctuations, Indian name , " " mines on Savanno Eiver, timber on ; . . Savonna's Ferry, navigation at Scott Capo, situation of Soaforth Channel , 26,47 28 29 82 44 47- 84 104 6, l.'i 16,61,70 . 15, 10, 17, 10, 21, 23, 25, 5!) 113 115 121 90 IIG 90,105 80 8 84 66 66 68 69,71 70 188 68 OS 1 10 9 m , w 89 XXVll Seine River, timber on. Selkirk, Lord, eJorts at colonization by Selkirk Mountains, the " " passes through the Seven Portages, situation of Seymour Narrows Shell Eiver, banks of " " fertile lands...: Shoal Lake, extent of Sliuswap Eiver, character of Similkameen, district of " River Simpson Fort, temperature at Sioux Indians, number of Skagit River, altitude of Skeena River, country extending to Snowfall Smokcy River Pass, elevation of ■' " " report on " " view of Soda Creek, B.C., temperature at " " " junction with Fraser River, Sourios River, sources of Summit Lake, country near Swan River, situation of " " salt springs on •• " country near •• " surface deposits on •• " character of soil '• " climate *' " boring operations on •• " minerals on .... , T. Tilda Lake described Tanyabunket Lake described Tatlayaco Lake described " " gradients on Tatla Lflko survey Tcluits(iuot River, character of Page. 10 88 68 70 lU 17 24 1!) !)5 75, 92. 91 oa 80, 39 131 92 30 38, 41, 43 70 112 137 74 114 01 75, 92 19 20, 40 20, 22 22 20 iUP 43 40 09 113 108 117 108 9i !!'! XXVIH Tchestatta Lake, Trail along Tcliutaaely Lake described Tea River Tolm-sin-il-til Lake, gradients on Temperatwreg, Table of «• of British Columbia Tetachuck Lake, situation of Tete Jaune Cache , position of " " navigation at Thick wood Hills, ooimtry near Thle-et-leh, situation of Thoburn, the Rapid Thompson Route, the " River Thousand Lakes, Lake of " " " arable land near . •« «« " timber on «« «« " climate Thunder Bay, area, depth, &c " " alluvial country near ♦' " climate I '* " mines at " Capo " Hill, situation of " " yellow ochre springs on Thrncha Lake, position of Tiedeman's River and Glacier Couch wood Iliiis, country near " character of " fertile area " Lakes at " devastations liy fire ni... " scenery at " snowfall on •• " climate at Transport, compnrativo cost of Trembleur Lake described Tschick Lake, altitude and situation of... . Tnlameen River, valley of II It (I II it Page. 103 102 94 118 89 74 101 68 72 49,51 72 81 07 08,95 8 9 12 1,2 10, 12 12 14 1 19 22 98 110 17 22, 24 24, 20 25 25 20 4;{ 43 80 09 100 93 f XXIX - . , Page. Unjiga Eiver > 143 Ursula Channel , 8'J, 92 Vancouver Island, coal on 66 ♦• " situation of 77 «« " explorations by Captain Vancouver at 77 ** " navigation north of 115 Valclez Island 115 Vegetation, luxuriance of 41 Vermillion, Fort, wheat and barley raised at 35, SB, 89 Victoria Mission, land near 49 Victoria City, temperature at... 74 " " situation of 77 w. Waddington, Mr., place where his men were murdered m Water supply 40 Waterhen Kiver, channel of Qg Watershed, elevation of, between Lakes Superior and Winnipeg 4 " altitude of ditto 14 " between Assiniboinc and S. Saskatchewan 25 •« " Beaver and Athabasca Rivers g4 " " Saskatchewan and Peace Rivers g4 «• " Pacific Ocean and Fraser River 70 •« " Blackwater and Cliilacoh Rivers jjG, ICO " " Chilacoh and Chilcotin 1C8 •• " Stewart and Frasor Valleys 121 W(.lcome Islands, situation of 1 Westroad River, position of 07 White Earth Fort, beautiful country near 68 White ^lud River, fertile soil on 26, 80 " " " position of 80 White ^louth River, situation of f Whipsaw Valley, the 0B Wignatinon, Valley of 60 " " fine timber in 00 »• " general description of 6U, Gl William Fort, progress of.scasons at .«'. . 11 " "- temperature at 80 XXX Wiunipcg City ■^*°^- ** '• tcmj)Gratui'o at " health of ^ A* Winnipeg River, country near , ... ^ ■■ 7,8,20 " description of " Lake, building-stone on *tt " mineral wealth of 7^ " climateat , ' ^^ „ .. ., ^. , ,. 18,33,42 situation and altitude of " " boundaries and extent of i .. -, n' or. character of country near Winnipegoosis Lake, building- stone on , ' " " description of :; ™=-«'™» ■■'■•.■■■■■■.■'.■.".■.■.■.■..■.■.■.';:■.:.•. 23, 9' " area " minerals Woody Mountain, country near Wooded Country, the .'. ." " " ^^' f^ Woodhalk or Bella Coola Eivcr ^^ 92 ^ Y. Yale, Ilapids above Yoita Heacu-a.., cwt„ of.:;. ;.:;;;;;;;;.:.:;;.:.:;;:; ■,,;;^ " gradients la ' elevation of ^^ 7Q " " Lake gradients on Yeltessc, Salmon River at. . jjg " gradients at 122 ;> ^ z. Zazatce Lake, gradients on • • 118 LIST OF AUTHORS QUOTED. A. Agassiz, Professor, Geology of Lake Superior. Anilcrson, A. C, The Dominion at the We.st. B. Barrett-Leimanl, Capt., C. E., Travels hi British Columhia. Barnston, Lieut., Report of. Bayfield, Captain. Bell, Robert, Geological Survey of Canada, 1872-3-1-"). Borron, E. B., Mining Inspector, in B-port of C.)nunIssiuiior of Crown Lands, Ontario, 1870. BuUer, Captain W. F., The Great Lone Land. " The Wild North Land. 0. Choadle, Dr., North- West Passage by Land. ConiwalJis, K., The New El Dorado. D. Dawson, G. M., Geology of the 49tli Parallel. Dawson, S. J., Report on Lino of Route botweon Lake Superior and Rod River Settlement, 1808. Evidence before Select Committee on Lnmigration and Colonization, House of Commons, Canada, 1800, Downie, Wm., Report of, to Governor Douglas. Douglas, Governor, Report of. F. l^leming, Sandford, Report of Progress C. P. R., 1871, Foster and Whitney, Messrs., Geology of Lake Superior Land District. Q, Grant, Rev. George M., Ocean to Ocean. Hall Professor, Geology of Fourth District, N.Y. Hector, Dr., Geological Report in Palliser's Exploration in B.N. A. ^^mm xxxu Hind, Professor H. Y., Canadian Exploring Expedition. " " " Assiniboine and Saskatchewan Exploring Expedition. Horetzky, Clias., Canada on the Pacific, Keefer, ^fr., Map prepared by. Laird, Hon. David, Reports of. Logan, Sir Wm., Geology of Canada. It. 14,. M. Mackenzie, Su- A., Voyages by. , , , Macoun, Professor J., Eeport of Progress C. P. E., 1874 " " Evidence before Select Committee on Immigration and Coloni- zation, House of Commons, Canada, 187G. It Martin, R. M., the Hudson's Bay Territories. ' Marshall, Chas., The Canadian Dominion. Mayne, Commander R. C, Four Years in British Columbia and Vancouver Island. McLeod, H., Evidence before the Select Committee on Immigration and Colonization, House of Commons, Canada, 187G. McLeod, Malcom, Evidence before the Select Committee on Immigration and Coloniza- tion, House of Commons, Canada, 1876. Milton, Viscoimt, The North-West Passage by Land. vi Palliser, Captain, Exploration in B. N. A. Palmer, Lieut. H. S., Report on Bentinck Arm. Pembcrton, J. D., Facts and Figures relating to Vancouver's Island and British Columbia. R. Richardson, Sir John, Ai'ctic Exploring Expedition i Richardson, James, Geological Survey of Canada, 187'4-5. Rowan, J. H., Report of Progress, C. P. R* Russell, A. J., The Red River Country, Hudson's Buy and N. W. Territories. s. --■': Selwyn, A. R. C, Geological Survey of Canada. Simpson, Sir George, Overland Journey Round the World. ' Smith, Hon. D. A., Letter on Navigation in N. W. Territories. XTXlll Smith Marcus, Report of Progress, Canadian Pacific Railway. Smytli, Report of Major-General Selby. Spence, Thomas, Manitoba and the North-West of the Dominion. Spenser, J. W., Geological Survey of Canada, 1874-.'>. ■_ iu A* Taclie, Mgr., Sketch of the North-West of America. Vavasour, Lieut., Report of. % w. Wells, A. W., Report by in Journals Legislative Assembly, Canada, 1859. Waddington, Alfred, Overland Railway through B. N. America. m INDEX OF WORKS QUOTED. Arctic Exploring Expedition, by Sir John Richardson. Assiniboine and Saskatchewan Exploring Expedition, by Prof. H. Y. Hind. Canada on the Pacific, by Charles Iloretzky. Canadian Exploring Expedition, by Prof. H. Y. Hind. •' Dominion The, by Charles Marshall. Census of Canada, 1871. D. Dominion at the West, The, by A. C. Anderson, .J. P. Exploration in B. N. America, by Capt. Palliser. F. Facts and Figm*es relating to Vancouver Island and British Columbia, by J. D. Pem- berton. - Four Years in British Colninlda, by Commander Pi. C. Mayne, R.N. a. Geological Survey of Canada. Geology of Canada. " 49th parallel, by G. M. Dawson. " Lake Superior Land District, by Messrs. Foster and Whitney. " the Fourth District N. Y., by Prof. Hall. Great Lone Land, Tlio, by Capt. W. F. Butler. Hudson's Bay Territories, The, by R. M. Martin. ^ J* Journals, Legislative Assembly, Canada, 1858. • .. « «< i< ig5})_ XXiVl L. Letter, from Hon. D. A. Smith, M.P., ou Navigation. M. Manitoba and the North-West of the Dominion, by T. Spencc. N. North-West Passage by Land, The, by Milton and Clieadlo. New El Dorado, The, by Kinahau Cornwallis. o. Ocean to Ocean, by Rev. G. M. Grant. . Overland Jom-ney Round the World, by Sir George Simpson. " Railway through B. N. America, by Alfred Waddington. R. Report of Progrcs.s, Canadian Paciiic Railway, 1874.5. " " " Route between Lake Superior and Red River Settlement, 1868. " " Select Committee on Immigration and Colonization, House of Commons, Canada, 18G9. " " Select Committee on Immigration and Colonization, House of Commons, Canada, 1870. Couimissioner of Crown Lands, Ontario, 1870. Lieut. H. S. Palmer to Governor Douglas. ' ■ " Vavasour on Navigation. " " Wm. Downie to Governor Douglas. " " Major-General Smyth. " " Hon. D. Lakd. 1876. " Marcus Smith, Esq., for 187o. Red Rivor Country, Hudson's Bay, and North- West Tcrritori<\s, by A. J. Russell. a it Sketch of the North-West of America, by Mgr. Tache. T. Travels .n British Columbia, by Capt. Bavrett-Lemiard. V. Voyages of Sir A. Mackenzie. WUd North Land, The, by Capt. W. F. Butler. ALTITUDES, Un tub Line of the Canada Pacific Railway fkum Thunder Day TO THK Pacific Ocean. 1 1 I At Fort William.. "O'^-OO feet " Linkoping : I ,->^i-^^^ " " English River 1,515.00 " " Wabigoon Lake 1,204.00 " " Vermillion Lake 1,170.00 " " Keewatin 1,081.00 " "Darwin 'J39.00 " " Selkirk 720.00 " " Cartier ^27.00 " " Poutraincoiirt '^=^0.00 " " Northcotc 1,158.00 " " Livingstone 1,190.00 " " Thackeray 1,781.00 " " Saskatchewan 1,(;23.00 " " Caerlaverock 1,520.00 •' " Battleford 1,593.00 " " Four Blackfoot Hills 2.113.00 " "Edmonton 2,391.00 " " Poinbiua River 2,385.00 " " McLeod's River 2,797.00 " " Jasper Honse 3,350.00 " " Summit Yellow Head Pass 3,7-10.00 " " Teto Jaxmo Cache 2,100.00 " " Fort George 1,900.00 " " Valleys in Central Plateau, D.C 3,000.00 " " Yeltesse, above Salmon River 1,000.00 " Note.— Sec pages 117 and 122 for tables of gradients of the lines surveyed through the Cascade Mountains, where they are fully given mile by mile. ELEVATIONS AT PROMINENT POINTS. CojiriLEU FKOM Authors Quoted in the Foiiegoixu Pages. above the oceau GOO feet 1,500 •)02 000 J)00 1,000 2,700 500 1,000 700 800 Lake Superior Height of Land between Lake Superior and Winnipeg.. . " " Watershed above Lake Superior Lake Winnipeg above the ocean First Prairie Steppe " " Second " " " " Third " " " Sources of Qu'Appollc River above lied Itiver Summit altitude of Riding and Duck Mountains above the ocean Heart Hill. above the i^lains Porcupine Mountain above Swan Lake Rise from Fort Garry to Edmonton, by trail l,-400 " from Edmonton to base of Mountains 900 Mount Carmel, (Big Hill) above the plains 100 Lumpy Hill " " 100 Height of the banks of Red River above the stream 30 to 50 Jasper House above the sea 3,372 Highest point of Plateau in British Territory at base of Rocky Mountains, on lOth parallel above the ocean 1,300 Great Table-land of Mexico 7,000 Bow River, at foot of Moinitains 3,000 Athabasca River, at foot of Mountains 3,300 Rocky Mountains , •. .above eastern plahi 2,000 to 3,000 Terraces east of Rocky Mountain above the ocean 3,500 to 4,000 Mounts J]rown and Hooker above the plains 10,000 Roche Miette, from its base 0,000 ^Mountains south of !Moose Lake above tho liik(> 2,000 Average height of Rocky ^Mountain:-; 11,000 Lake Stuart above tho oclhu 1,800 llowsc Pass " " 4,500 Athabasca Pass " •' 0,025 Yellow Head Pass " " 8,740 Pine River " " " 2,000 Peace " " under " 2,000 XXXIX Cascade Mountains at Kemano Kivcr above the sea 8,000 feet « " at Skagit " " " •'5,«00 " SkagitRiver " " 1-900 " Allison's Pass above the sea (Cascades) 4 ,400 ' ' Princeton " " " ^-i-iOO " TeaEivor " " " 1,500" Okanigan Mountain above the lake 8,000 " Lake " «ea 1,120 " Valleys in Central Plateau, B.O " " 3,000" Hillj^ " <> above the sea 4,000 to 5,000 " Blackwater Bridge, B.C above the sea 2,110 " Crown of Table-land, B.C., " " =^.500 " Blackwater River (camp 8) B.C " " 3,145" Kluskus Lake, B.C " " 3,500 " Thracha Lake, B.C., " " 3,310 " Eliguck Lake, B.C., " " :^.«10 " Divide on Central Plateau, B.C., " " -1,050 " Lake N'ghaco, B.C., " " «.^'00 " '• Qualcho, " " " ^.«20 " •' Tschick, " " " 3,100" " Tetachuck, B.C., " " 2,770" " Tcliutazely, " " " '-^'fi^" " " Enz.B.C " " ^'0^^ " " Tchestatta, B.C., " " '-^'^"O " " Kthluthsly, " " " '-^''^OO " Head of Lake Fraser, B.C, " " 2,400" Hills on Central Plateau, B.C., " ' 1,000" Foot of Lake Francois, " " " '^'^^^ " Chilacoh Valley, (above Canyon) above the sea 2,000 to 2,800 " Salmon House above river 100 " Yeltesse.... " " l'<«><' " ChisicutLake •'''•^'^'^ Chilacoh Valley above the sea 2,225 " Stewart Valley " " '■^-<^^^ " T.. " " 1 050 " River '•""" Jiasalt Lake, divide near " " ^,^0^^^ Euchinico Lake crossing " " ^'^^^ Summit between Blackwater and Nazco " " ■' •'-^'^'^ Lake Francois, North shore " " ^'''' r» .. " 1,000 " Duuvcgan... V DEPTH OF RIVER VALLEYS. On First Priiiric Steppe 30 feet "Second " " 150 to 200 "Third " " 150 to 400 South Saskatchewan below prairie, third level . . . . , 800 *« " at the crossing 170 North " below prairie level. 100 to 800 " Battle River, bolow prairie level 150 to 270 " liodEiver " " " 30 to 50 Wiguatinou River, below prairie level 200 Valleys iu Central Plateau, B.C 110 CHAPTER I. FROM THUNDER BAY TO RED RIVER. Elevation of Lake Superior. Canadian Exploring Expedition, by Uenry Tule Hind. Vol. I, p. 17. " The elevation of Lake Superior above the Ocean has been variously estimated by different observers. Captain Bayfield considered it to be 627 feet above the level of the sea, which altitude is adopted by the narrators of Agassiz's tour in that region, and by .Messi's. Foster and Whitney, in their report on the geology of the Lake Superior Land District. Sir \Vm. Logan, in his Geological Report for 1846-7, states that its surface is 597 feet above the Ocean ; in Professor Hall's Geology ef the Fourth Disti'ict, N. Y., 596 feet is its assigned elevation. Sir John Richardson assumed its level to be 641 feet above the Ocean. Tlie altitude deduced by Mr. Keefer for the map prepared for the Canadian Commissioners at the Paris Exhibition in 1855, with the advantages and in- formation derived from the levels obtained in the construction of various railways and canals from the Ocean to Lake Superior, established a difference of only three feet in excess of that obtained by Sir Wm. Logan in 1847. The occasional fluctuations in the level of the waters of Lake Superior certainly exceed three feet, so that an elevation of 600 feet is probably a correct estimate of the mean height of the waters of this ' Kitchi- gum-mi,' or Great Lake of the Ojibways above the Ocean," Thunder Bay. Canadian Pacific Railway. Report of Progress, 1874, pp. 208-209. " This Bay is on the north-west shore of Lake Superior, and has an area of about 200 square miles. It lies in a direct .un generally from north-east to south-west, and is bound on the west and north by the mainland ; on the east by the ])romontory of Thunder Cape, which divides it from Black Bay ; and on the south it is divided from Lake Supe- rior by a number of islands, of which Pie Island is the principal. * * * With the exception of a small group, (the Welcome Islands,) which lie about four miles east from the mouth of the Kuministiquia River, there are not many islands in Thunder Bay. " The principal entrance to Tliunder Bay, and the one gonerally used, lies between Thunder Cape and Pie Island ; it is a})out five miles wide and has a depth of water rang- ing from lUO feet to 237 feet. The general depth of the Bay is given on the chart as 60 feet. * * * The navigation is good for either steamboats or sailing vessels ; the opening and closing of the Bay is about the 8th May and 30th December." Report on Line of Route between Lake Superior and Red River Settlement, by S. J. Dawson, C.E., 1808, ^>. 12. " Thunder Bay is itself a harbour, although of somewhat largo dimensions, completely land-locked and sheltered from every wind ; any swell, therefore, which can be felt must arise within the bay itself. The huge surges of Lake Superior do not roll into it at all, t and it may be regarded, to all practical purposes, as an inland lake. ■■' '■'■'■ '■^'■ It is safe from winds blowing west, south-west, noi-th and north-west, and, I may add, that a wind blowing from a direction fifteen or twenty points to the east of T.orth would not affect it. East or south-easterly winds alone would blow in upon the harbour, but the extent of their sweep would be limited to the width of Thunder Bay, and the surge which could arise in that distance may easily be guarded against." (It may be observed that the railway terminus is fixed on the Kaministiquia River, which flows into the Bay and is itself a good harbour, and into which a deep outer passage is dredged through the Bar.) Kaministiquia Valley. ., Ap2)endix No. 3 to XVI Vol. Journals of Legislative Assembly of Canada, 1858. " The Kaministiquia for the first ten miles or so is smooth, and the navigation is unimpeded. * '■' '•' In regard to its general features, the country is varied. The valley of the lower part of the Kaministiquia is well adapted for settle- ment. On ascending, however, the land becomes very rough and broken, although the hills are of no very great elevation. Dog Lake is a large sheet of water. The land rises to a considerable elevation around it, but the hills ai'e not steep or in continuous ridges, but swell up gradually as it were in isolated mounds. At the Lake of the Thousand Lakes, although the country appears to be considerably elevated, there are, properly speaking, no hills. The land rises gradually from the Lake presenting a smoothly-swelling outline against the distant horizon. "No part of the country is more than 1000 feet above the lake level, or 1600 feet above sea level, which height is reached about 50 miles inland." Captain Palliscr's Exploration in B. N. America, folio, p. 237. Dr. Hector's Geological Report, ^' ■'■ " The whole of this district is occupied by a primitive axis, the intermediate primitive bolt of Sir J. Richardson, which is composed of gneiss, mica, schist, limestones and other metamorphic rocks, with intrusions of granite, probably o( very diffei-ent ages, the whole formation being the Laurentian of Logan, corresponding, it is thought, to the fundamental gneiss recently described by Sir R. Murchison, as under- lying the most ancient rocks in Scotland. '■' ''' '•' ' " On the River Kaministiquia, above the fall at Friai's' Portage, the strata have an almost vertical position, and a little further on, at Lower Island Portage, are found to be dip[)ing at an angle of 40° to south-south-east, and to be changed in character, having mica developed in them, and also a great abundance of quartz veins. Immediately afterwards, in the course of the ascent, true granite occui's ; and after scvei'al alterations, schistose flags re-ajjpcar at Up],)or Island Portage, but now dipping at a high angle to the north-west. " From the Falls to tho Dog Lake, the ascent of the river pursues a northerly course, crossing tho beds oblitjuely by a succession of minor falls, giving rise to scenery of unequalled beatity. # * * The ascent which is made after leaving tho ui)i)er end of Dog Lake, is through a swam])y country covered with drift. In fact, after leaving Dog Lake, until a considerable descent lias been made to the west, no rock is exposed, tho whole summit level being covered with a thick deposit of drift. * i n " From the Lake of the Thousand Isles, where the rocky flooring of the country is again uncovered, until Sturgeon Lake is readied, the descent is very slight. * * * In miuiy cases the lakes are at exactly the same level at each end of the portage ; and the greatest diflerence between the two ends of any of tlioso portages is only about ;]■") feet, so that the total descent in this part of the route cannot amount to very much. * * * " Between Rainy Lake and Lake of the Woo Is tlie su])er(ioial deposits again cover all rocks from \ iew, and when the north end of the latter 4ake is reached, and they are again exposed, their general strike is now changed to almost north and south, agreeing with the greater axis of the lake, just as liainy Lake agrees with the strike of the eastern District," Geolo'jlcal Survey of Canada, 1S72-73, ;:». lOG. i " In going north-westward from Thunder Bay to Lake Winnipeg, six apparently distinct belts of Huronian rocks are crossed. They appear to occupy long V shaped basins in the folds of the Laurentian strata, and their aggregate breadth is about half that of the Laurentian bands between them. The lirst, or Tlmnder Bay band, has a breadth of about \i) miles l)e]iind Thuniler Bay, bwt appears to sj)read out to a greater width west of the Kanuuistlcpiia lUver." Geology of Canqda, p. 74. " In addition to dykes, a great many mineral veins intersect these rocks. A very largo number of these contain a greater or smaller amount of vai'ious metalliferous ores ; and the indications which they present are such as to render it certain that many parta the country characterized by them, will, sooner or later, rise into imi)ortance as a mining region. The metals whoso ores are mot with are copper, lead, zinc and silver, with more rarely nickel, cobalt, arsenic, uranium and molybdenum." Teuuaces of Lake Superior Basin. Captain PaJlixer's Exploration in B. X, America, /alio, p. 211). " In ascending the Kaministitiuia for a considerable distance above the Kakabeka Falls, the country is covered liy a deposit of red marl earth, which forms the high ter- races of the river. Thus, opposite the mouth of White Fish Jliver, there are three dis- tinst teri'ace levels of 20, 00 and 'JO feet. At some distance l>ack from the i-iver still higher terraces occur, belonging to this class of deposits, which must bo considered as of more recent ago than the true drift. Sir William Ijogan d(!scribes one at the height of 331 feet above Lake Sui)orior. The great deposits of sand ami gravel which rest on the highest levels of the axis and are (irst met with at Dog i'ortago, lielong, I think, to tho period of the drift." llml, P- :i . "The country in tiio iu>igId)()rhood of the Kakaboka Falls at a little distance from the river rises to an elevation of lOO feet, a steett bank on eiUier aide of tho stream forming an additional terrace." lOiJ, p. L'L '■'■'• * '" " Terrace structure commences about 20 miles from the mouth of Kaministiquia llivor, rising to the height of from (iO to SO foot above the level of tho broad Alluvial flat. These terraced banks are composed of a red, sandy mai-1, from the summit of which the country is level, with little or no swamp. * ■■^■• * The country presents great irregularities in every direction, and, as a rule, is densely wooded." Geological Survey of Canada, 18G6 to 1869, 7;. 330. "In the hills on the left side of the Kaministiquia River, a finely banded rock made up of jasper and magnetic iron, occurs. * * * These strata are considerably contoi'ted, and dip at high angles, but their general course appears to be north-west- ward. On higher ground, overlooking the river at this locality, are thick beds of finely grained greenish-gray diorite coarsely porphyritic from the presence of numerous crystals of greenish feldspar. The beds vary from one foot in thickness up to 15 or 20 feet and strike N. 65° W. (mag.)" Canadiem Exploring Expedition, by IJ. Y. Hind. Vol. 1, pp. 34-38. "Opposite this magnificent exposure c rap • oKay's Mountain), the clay banks of this river are about 14 feet high, and continue to lise on one side or the other until they attain an elevation of nearly 60 feet, often, however, retiring from the present bed of the river, and giving place to an alluvial terrace, some ^ or 1-^ ' t*^ in altitude, and clothed with the richest profusion of grasses and twining flovvrering plants. * * ♦ The alluvial valley of the river from about 3 miles below the mountain portage to Fort William, varies in breadth from a few hundred yards to one mile ; the breadth occupied by land of a quality which might fit it for agricultural purjjoses extends to near the summit of the flank of a low table land which marks the true limit of the river valley, and the average breadth of this may be double that of the strictly alluvial portion. * * * Occasionally the flanks of the low table land approach the river, contract the valley, and give an unfavorable aspect of the country. * * * xhe area available for agricultural purposes below the Grand Falls, jjrobably exceeds 20,000 acres, but if the flanks of McKay's Mountain be included in the estimate, a large addition may with propriety be assumed. The Grand Falls mark the limits of a tract of country differing in many important phy.sical aspects from the valley of the river lower down. From black argillaceous slates of Huronian (Cambi-ian) age we pass to a region in which granite, gneiss and chloritic schist prevail, and where the vegetation is often scanty and poor." Geological Survey of Canada, 1866-9,^, 320. Report of Mr. IL Bell. * * * " Between the Grand Falls of the Kaministiquia and the head of Thunder Bay, the country is occupied partly by Lauren tian and partly by Huronian rocks, to a distance of about eight miles from the former, and about sixteen from the latter. The distribution of the two formations is represented as accurately as possible according to present data. North of this area is the country around Dog Lake, which is all Lau- rentian so far as known." Height of Land. : Mr. Sandford Fleming in Report of Progress^ Canadian Pacific Railway, 1874, p. 8. * * * " Between the Province of Manitoba and Lake Superior, the drainage of the countiy is mainly westward, passing into Lake Winnipeg. The water- shed between the two lakes is quite close to Lake Superior, and maintains a nearly uni- form elevation of from 1400 to 1500 feet above the sea. The descent from the watershed westward is very gradual, and the country for the whole distance is remarkable for the innumerable streams and lakes with which it is intersected. These consist of long wind- ing sheets of water, separated by rocky ridges ; and so numerous are they, that an Indian in his canoe can travel in almost any required direction V>y making an occasional portage." Canadian PaciJiG Railway, Ileport of Progress, 1874, pp. 201-202. Appendix I. Jus. II. Rowan, C. E. " There is a peculiarity which has an important bearing on the location of a railway; it is that about 30 miles ea.st of Bat Portage a "divide" is crossed, which has a couree generally easterly until it strikes the height of land. This "divide" which has at some points a greater elevation than the height of land throws some of the waters, which flow through the Winnipeg River, to the south ; forming the line of water communication known as the Dawson Route. From the northern sloi)e of the " divide " the waters flow into English River, the outfall of Lonely Lake or Lac Seul, and enter the Winnipeg fifty miles Below Rat Portage. The country diftt-is gi'eatly on either side of this "divide," that on the south being extremely rocky and ruggeil, wliile that on the north is more level with extensive tracts of light sandy soil." Captain Pallisers Exploration in B. N. AinKrica,fvUo, p. 6. * * * " Around Thimder Bay, nnd extending for some distance up the valley of the Kaministiquia, there is a considerable extent of rich alluvial land, heavily timbered. * * * " The country which succeeds to the west and noi-th is wild and rocky, but with no hill more than 300 feet above the general level, so that it cannot be called a mountain- ous region. It is intersected by long, narrow lakes and innumerable watercourses broken by ridges of rock. The extent of the continuous water communication improves consider- ably as we descend to the west, and there are some large lakes which would be available for steam navigation in the event of the country ever becoming settled." Appendix No. 36 to the XVII Vol. of the Journals^ Legislative Aisemhhj, Province of Canada, 1869. Report of S. J. Dnitson on the Country between Lake Superior and Red River Settlement. " The regions through which the explorations have extended embraces two sections of country widely different in physical character. The first extending from Lake Superior to Lake Winnipeg is of the primitive or crj'stalline formation. In its general aspect it is a hilly and broken country, intersected by rapid rivers and wide-spread lakes. The mountains, however, do not rise to any great elevation, except on the immediate borders of Lake Superior, and there are several tine alluvial valleys." From Keewatin to Selkirk. Geological Survey. Report of Progress, 1872-3, Alfred R. C. Selwyn, pp. 13-14. * * * "The most important and interesting point which has been ascertained is the occurrence of a series of great parallel bands of Bchisto.se and slaty ntrata traversing this region, which hitherto was supposed to be almost exclusively occupi ;d by Laurentian gneiss, * * * * Wliatever the rather under than over the general average of such works." Jieport of Progress, C. P. Eailway, 1874, p. 201. * * * <« Pqj. gQ niiles immediately east of Red River, the general charac- teristics are, a level and in some parts swampy country, with ridges of sand and gravel more or less thickly covered with timber ; the next 70 miles are rough, broken and rocky, especially in the neighborhood of Winnipeg River, whicli at the outlet of Lake of th(5 Woods (Rat Portage) where we cross it, is a stream of considerable magnitude, draining an area of country of about 10,000 square miles ; an area which is largely increased below the point where, we cross it. * * * Rat Portage, or the Dalles (Keewatin) a few miles further down are the two most favorable jjoints for a railway crossing. * * * The country from this point to the Height of Land or eastern boundary of this (the Winnipeg) subdivision, has a gradual ascent, the total rise being b(!twecn 400 and 500 feet in a distance of 230 miles. * * * There is a great extent of water surface, consisting of lakes and lacustrine streams of every conceivable shape and size ; the former lying, for the most part, in the direction of the strike of the rocks ; the latter occasionally cutting across it. Tlie hills which almost universally follow a general dii'ection from N.E. to S. W., consist for the most part of rock of the Laurentian formation." Appendix No. 30 to Journals Legishitive Assemblif, Canada, 18.59. Report hy a. J. Dawson on the Country betioeen Lake Superioi' and Red River. " The tongue of land immediately to the eastward of Rod River, within the boun- -dary line, and between it and the Lake of the Woods, on the River Winnipeg, is remark- able, inasmuch as it divides the wooded from the prairie region, partaking to some extent of the character of both. The eastern border, on the Lake of the Woods and the Win- nipeg, is of the crystalline formation, of an uneven surface and densely wooded. Its western, on the Red River, presents wide prairie openings, and for a distance of about 30 miles back is of an alluvial soil. Immediately to the westward of Lake of the Woods, and but slightly elevated above it, there is a marshy plateau, scantily wooded, from which the Roseau River flows westward to Red River, the White Mouth River northward to the Winnii»eg, and several inconsiderable streams eastward to Lac Plat, and the Lake of the Woods itself. Westward of this plateau the land descends evenly to the praiiie bordering on Red River, and to the northward it declines very gently to Lake Winnipeg ; another river, the Broken Head, taking its rise on the slope between White Mouth River and Red River, about six miles to the eastward of which latter it flows into Lake Winni- peg in a reedy marsh." Winnipeg River. Red River Exploring Expedition, H. Y. Hind, Vol. 1, p. 106. " Issuing from the Lake of the Woods through several gaps in the noi'them rim of the lake, the River Winnipeg flows through numerous tortuous channels for many miles of its course in a north-easterly direction. Some of the channels unite with the main stream ten to fifteen miles below Rat Portage, and one pursues nearly a straight course for a distance of 65 miles, and joins ihe Winnipeg below the Barriere Falls. The windings of this immense river ai*e very abrupt and opposite, suddenly changing from north-west to south-west, and fi'om south-west to north-west for distances exceeding 20 miles. In its course of 163 miles, it descends 349 feet by a succession of magnificent cataracts. Some of the falls and rapids present the wildest and most pictiu'esque scenery, displaying every variety of tumultuous cascade, with foaming rapids, treacherous eddies, and huge swelling waves, rising massive and green over hidden rocks. * * The river frequently expands into large deep lakes full of islands, bounded by precipitous cliffs or rounded hills of granite. The fort at Rat Poi-tage is beautifully situated on an island at one outlet of the Lake of the Woods. It is surrounded Avith hills about 200 feet high, and near it some tall white and red pine, the remains of an ancient forest, are standing amidst a vigorous second growth. The rock about Rat Portage is a chloritic slate, which soon gives place to granite, without any covering of drift, so that no area capable of cultivation was seen until we arrived at Islington Mission." 17ie Great Lone Land, by Capt. W. F. Butler, F.R.GS., p. lU. * * * " A man may journey veiy far through the lone spaces of the earth without meeting with another Winnipeg River. In it nature has contrived to place her two great units of earth and water in strange and wild combinations. To say that the Winnipeg River has an immense volume of water, that it descends 360 feet in a distance of 160 miles, that it is full of eddies and whirlpools, of every variation of waterfall from chutes to cataracts, that it expands into lonely pine-cliffed lakes and far-reaching island- studded bays, that its bed is cumbered with immense wave polished rocks, that its vast solitudes are silent and its cascades ceaselessly active — to say all this is but to tell in bare items of fact the narrative of its beauty." Soil and Vegetation, Timber, (fee. Appendix No. 3 to Journals of t/ie Legislative Assembli/, Canada, 1858. * * * "Opposite McKay's Mountain the clay banks of the River (Kaministiquia) '«ere about 15 feet high, and continued to rise on one side or the other until they attained an elevation of nearly 60 feet, often, however, retiring from the present bed of the river, and giving place to an alluvial terrace, some eight or ten feet in altitude. " The low table land is thinly wooded with small pine and the soil is pooi- and dry ; the alluvial valley sustains elm, as{)en, Vjalsam, poplar, ash, butternut, and a very luxuriant profusion of grasses, vetches, and climbing plants ; among which the wild hop, honeysuckle and convolvulus, are the most conspicuous. The rear portion of the valley, with an admixture of the trees just nametl, contains birch, balsam, white and black spruce and some heavy aspens. The underbrush embraces hazelnut, cherries of two varieties, &c. * * * (1) The banks of Dog lliver are altogether alluvial, for some distance up the valley, with the occasional exception of the abrupt sand clitfs, noticed, which come upon the river and seem to form the termination of ridges, which traverse the valley at nearly riglit angles to the course of the stream. The banks of Havunno River are altogether alluvial, and diminish gradually from ten feet in altitude, iiear its source, to the level of Mille Lacs, at its entrance into that extensive and beautiful sheet of water. The immediate banks of Savanne River are clothed with alder, willow, and dogwood ; behind these are seen tamarac, pine, spruce and aspen. Near its mouth much marshy land prevails, and, at its confluence with Mille Lacs, is characterized by a large expanse of rushes and other plants common in such situations." Iicd River Exploring Expedition, hj II. Y. Iliad. Vol. \, p. 05. "■• ■'■ "'• " If, in the course of time, mineral wealth should lie found to exist in profitable distribution about Mille Lacs, there would be no scarcity of arable soil between the low hill ranges of that beautiful but desolate lake to supply the wants of a mining population. * * * Among the trees remarkable for tlieir size, cedar, ash, \.-}ute and red pine, with birch of two kinds may be mentioned." Ibid, p. lOi. " Much good pine timber was seen on the Islands, near the northern part of Lake of the Woods, and, if conclusions may be drawn, from the accounts which Indians gave us of their gardens, it is very pi-obable that extensive areas of excellent land exist." Ibid, 2). no. " Wheat sown (at Islington Mission) on the 20th May was reaped on the 2Gth August ; in general it requires but 93 days to mature. Potatoes have not been attacked by spring or fall frosts during a period of five years ; Indian corn ripens well, and may become a valuable crop on the Lower Winnipeg. Spi'ing opens and vegetation commences at Islington about the 10th May, and winter sets in generally about the lot November. These facts are noticed, in connection with the small cultivable tract at the Mission, on account of the occurrence of other available areaf, varying from 50 to 300 acres in extent between the Mission and Silver Falls, about 18 miles from the mouth of t'vt river. From Silver Falls to where the river Hows into Lake Winnipeg, poor and rooL y land is the exception, alluvial and feftile tracts, bearing groves of heavy aspens and otlier trees, prevailing." Ibid, p. C2. ''The hills surrounding Mille Lacs here and there bear pine of fair dimensions, while in the narrow and shallow valleys between them there is every indication of hardwood over large areas," (1) The wonls la these extracts are exactly the same as in Mr. Hind's Exploratioa, vide Red River Exploring Expedition, pp. 47-8, &c. 19 Appendix JVb. 36 to Journals Legislative Aasemhhj, 1859. lieport by S. J. Dawson oh the Country between Lake Superior and Red P.iver. " Dense forests cover the whole of this region, and the most valuable kinds of wood are seen in various places and in considerable quantities. Elm is to be found on Rainy River, and white pine of a fair size and good quality, abounds on the eastern slope to Lak* Superior ; but it is still more abundant on the western slope, on the watera which flow towards Rainy Lake. On the Sageinaga River, and on the Seine and the Maligno, there are extensive forests of red and white pine." I • " Ocean to Ocean, " by the Rev. Geo. Grant, pp. 28-31. * # •-!« « Drove in three hours (from Thunder Bay) to ' 15 mile shanty,' through a rolling country with a steady upward incline, lightly wooded for the first half and more heavily for the latter half of the distance. The flora is much the same as in our eastern provinces ; the soil light, with a surface covering of peaty or sandy loam, and a subsoil of clay, fairly fertile and capable of being easily cleared. The vegetation is varied, wild fruits being especially abundant, raspbeiTies, currants, gooseberries, and tomatoes ; flowers like the convolvulus, roses, a great profusion of asters, wild kallas, waterlilies on the ponds, wild chives on the rocks in the streams, and generally a rich vegetation. It is a good country for emigrants of the farmer class. The road, too, is first-rate, a great point for the settler ; and a market is near. Whatever a settler raises he can easily transport to the ready market that there always is near mines. * * * Pbr the next three or four miles the soil became richer, the timber heavier, and the whole vegetation more luxuriant. * * * The valley of the river (Kaministiquia) is acknowledged to be a splendid farming country. * * * Timothy grass was growing, to the height of four feet, on every vacant spot, from chance seeds. A bushel and a half of barley, which was all a squatter had sown, was looking as if it could take the prize at an Ontario Exhibition. ''■ * "•= Everything about this part of the country astonished us. Our former ideas concerning it had been that it was a barren desert ; that there was only a horse trail, and not always that, to travel by ; that the mosquitoes were as big as grasshoppers and bit through everything, whereas, it is a fair and fertile land, undulating from the intervals of the rivers up to hills and rocks 800 feet high. The road through it is good enough for a King's highway, and the mosquitoes are not more vicious than in the woods and by the streams of the lower provinces." I Overland Journey Round tJie World, by Sir Geo. Simpson, 1841-2. Vol. 1, jyp. 36-37. "The River, (Kaministiquia) during the day's march, passed through forests of elm, oak, pine, birch, (fee, being studded with isles not less fertile and lovely than its banks ; and many spots reminded us of the rich and quiet scenery of England. The paths of the portages were spangled with violets, roses and many other wild flowers, while the currant, the gooseberry, raspberry, the plum, the cherry, and even the vine, were abundant. All this bounty of nature was imbued, as it were with life by the cheerful notes of a variety of birds. Compared with the adamantine deserts of Lake Superior, the Kaministiquia presented a perfect paradise. * t- * " The mines ef Lake Superior, besides establishing a continuity of route between the east and the west, will find their nearest and cheapest supply of agricultural produce in the vailej of the Kaministiquia." ■■I 11 Appendix Xo. 36 to Journnln Legislative Assemhly, Canada, 1859. Report by S. J. Dawson on the Country between Luke ^Superior and lied liiver. " Lake of tlie Woods, like all the other lakes on the line of route, is intersperseJ in middle of the day. " April 2 The sap of the sugar maple began to run. " " 9 First wild ducks seen. • " " 10 Butterflies, blue flies and gulls noticed. " " 20 General thaw commences. Ground frozen to a depth of 3 ft. 9 inches. " " 30 River (Kaministiquia) partially open. "Mtty 2 Eiver free of itiB. , , ,, , 12 "May " June 10 15 « July 15 31 « Aug. 8 (( i< 19 K (< 21) « « 31 «' Sept. 7 13 " Oct. 7 " Nov. 3 « « 9 " Dec. 1 « « 17 The birch tree and maple budding. ' Swallows building. Barley just coming into ear. Potatoes in flower. Raspberries ripening. Red currants and blueberries perfectly ripe. Bai'ley ripening. Peas quite ripe. Swallows have disappeared. Leaves of birch and aspen change color. ' Potatoes, cabbage, turnips and cauliflowers nipped by frost. Leaves of the birch and aspen falling. Small lakes frozen over. River (Kaministiquia) covered by sheet of ice which broke up again. Ice driving about lay wind. Thunder Bay frozen across to Welcome Islands." .i.i Capabilities foe Settlement. .' Appendix yo. 3 to Journals Legislative Assembly, Gatrnda, 1858. lieport by Mr. Dawson. * * * " The country about Thunder Bay, and the lower part of the Kami- liirmost point of Kngland, through the " environs of Paris, through the SoutlaM-n Provinces of (Jcnnany, and hss than a dt^gnse " north of Vienna, there is therefore no reason, as regards climate, why the lower coirse " of the Fraser River, (U' the upper course of tli<' (!oluml>ia, in British territory and in " tho Bfimo latitudeB, should not rival the brinks of the Kliine, tlio Mduro or the MobcIIo, 14 ! <. " There is no such reason why the valleys of the Nujiga, the Elk, the Saskatchewan, the " Red River and the Assiniboine, should not yield their golden harvests as rich as those " of the Weser, the Elbe, the Oder or the Vistula. *' The geographical difficulties between these localities, in relation to those influences " by which climate is affected, are indeed such that it would require some very strong " facts, sustained by a concurrence of all the most credible testimony to prove that the " above comparison h too favorable to the places I have named on this continent. The " facts established, however, by all disinterested authorities, prove the reverse." Thunder Bay Mines. Report of the Commissioner of Crown Lands, Ontario, 1870. Appendix 2fo, 22, iy £i. B. Borron, Mining Inspector, pp. 31-2. "Silver bearing veins have been discovered in ten or twelve different localities between Thunder Cape and Pigeon River, indicating a field sufficiently extensive to con- stitute a very important silver mining region, should the lodes or veins turn out well in depth. -None of the veins have been sunk upon to a greater depth than sixty feet or ten fathoms, a depth very inconsiderable in a mining point of view. We have beyond doubt veins containing very rich bunches or pockets of silver at or near the surface. That neur Silver lalet, Thunder Caj)*, has produced this fall, a quantity of ore which if nearly so rich as reported, places it in the meantime in the foremost rank of silver producing mines, and although the depth yet attained does not exceed ten or twelve feet, it is said to be as rich if not richer in the bottom of the slope than it was at the surface. Whether any considerable number of these silver veins will sustain profitable mining operations carried on by a large force of miners and extended over a long term of years, like many such in Europe, remains to bo seen." Altitude of Watershed. Captain Palliser's Exploration of B. N. America, p. 1^. ** Extrenie observed altitude of watershed ab»ve Lakr Superior 902 feet." Gradients. Mr. Sandford Fleming in Report of Progress C. P. R. Stirvei/, 1874, ;>. .32. " In passing through to Lake Superior from the west, a rise of 8 1 7 feet has to be overcome in 300 miles, and a descent of 976 feet in about IIG miles. The Grand Trunk Railway, between Montreal and Portland, running easterly from Montreal, makes an ascent of 1,360 feet in 144 miles, and a cori-esponding descent in 153 miles. Compaiisons of this nature do not take into account intermediate undulations in either case ; they ai"e presented simply for the purpose of bringing out the salient features of the route found for the Canadian Pacific Railway. They suggest that the works of construction for this line will not be heavy, and that it will be quite possible to secure remarkably easy ascending gradients, in the direction of the heavy traffic. # * # The information obtained suggests that it will bo possible to secure maximum easterly ascending gradients, between Alanitoba and Lake Superior, within the limit of 26 feet to the mile, a maximum not half so great as that which obtains on the majority of the railways of the Continent." 15 ral other sheets of water, of which Manitoba and Winnipegoosis Lakes are the most considerable. None of these lakes are deep, and many I)arts of them are extremely shallow, but still they present fine stretches for future steam navigation, and from the facility of access which they give to tlie timbered districts, tliL'y will doubtless prove of great value in opening up and settling the country." SuPERFiciAii Geology. 11 5 'I ill! Geological Survey of Canada, 1874-75. Report of Mr. R. Bell, pp. 40 io 55. " In the prairie regions of the North- West territory, loose deposits of Post-Tertiary age cover the surfixce of the country almost univeraally, and they are usually of consider- able depth. Tliere are immense areas having the same general elevation, or without very great or sudden changes of level, yet, with the exception of the first prairie steppe, there is a remarkable scarcity, or perhaps absence, of extensive stratified deposits of sands and clays, such as occur in the I'rovinces of Ontario and Quebec. The bulk of the superficial deposits is of the nature of boulder clay or unmodified drift, which is spread alike over the older rocks from the lowest to the highest levels. In those portions of the territory which have come under my own observation, the materials of the drift appear to be made up of the debris of the rocks existing ia situ immediately beneath or a short distance to the north eastward, together with a greater or less proportion derived from those lying further ofi' in the same direction. As a rule the softer or mox'e clayey part has coine from the underlying strata, while the harder pebbles and bouklers are the fui-therest transported, still, in washing out the finer ingredients it Ls always found that much of the incoi"]iorated sand and gi'avel is of foreign oi'igiu. * * * In reference to the composition of the drift, more than half of its bulk, on an average, consists of local material. On the first and second prairie steppes, the most abundant constituent of the transi)orted portion is Laurentian gneiss, while the remainder is made up of light-colored unfossiliferoiis lime- stones, supjioscd to be Silurian and Devonian, together with a proportion of lluronian schists, which varies in ditt'erent localities. On the third ste2)pe, however, smooth pebbles of finely granular quartzite predominate. '■'■ ■'•' "'' There are also pebbles of dark fine-grained diorite, light-colored limestone, and some of dark fine-grained mica schist, and of white translucent quartz. * * '•• While the conq;osition of the boulder clay of the first and second prairie steppes, and also to some extent, that of the third stei)pe, as well as the course of the glacial strite on the hard rocks on the east side of the prairies, would indicate that the drift had been mainly from tlie north-eastward, the above evidence allows that a large proportion of the transported material on the highest levels has come from the north or west. A part of what now is found in some localities may have beenmoved first in one directionand afterwards inauother, wliilstthe bulk of the older drift, including, perhaps, even that on the tliird ste])pe, has probably come from points lietwoeu north and east. The quartzite pebbles of the third steppe were all thoiouglily waterworn and ap[)eared to bo most abundant on aiad near the surface. The upj)('r 200 feet, or thereabouts, of the south bank of the South Saskatcliewau at the Red Ochre Hills, consist of clayey drift, in which boulders of Laurentian gneiss occur, while the surfaces of these hills are strewn with smooth quartzite graved and cobble stones. At the distance of 150 miles to the south eastward, between the Dirt Hills and Woody Mountain, tlie proportion of quartzite gravel on the third steppe has diminislu'd consider- ably, and Laurentian bouldei>i have become very numerous on the surface. " Between Fort Gariy and Fort EUice, Huronian boulders are scarce. * * ''' Both bouldoi-s and pebbles from rocks of this formation are, however, consjiicuoua for 17 their abundance in the drift in the banks of the Assiniboine for some miles above and below the junction of the Shell River, and in the banks of the Calling River, in the neighborhood of the Fishing Lakes. They are also noticeable on the surface all the way from these lakes to the Touchwood Hills. * * * In the three prairie steppes there is a marked difference in the general aspect of the surface of the country and in the character of the river-valleys. On the first steppe, the surface is usually level or undulating in long gentle sweeps, and the beds of the principal streams do not probably average more than thirty feet below the level of the surroimding country. On the second steppe the surface is rolling, and the river valleys are usually from 150 to 200 feet in depth, while on the third, the hills are on a larger scale, and either closely crowded together, or they rise here and there to considerable heights overlooking less rugged tracts. The principal river-valleys on this steppe are from 200 to 500 feet deep. The ' Coulees,' as they are termed, form a curious feature of the third steppe. These are ravines or valleys with steep sides, often 100 feet or more in depth, which terminate or close in rather abruptly, often at both ends, forming a long trough-like depression ; or one of the extremities of the 'Coiilee' may open into the valley of a regular watercourse. The Coulees sometimes run for miles, and are either quite dry or hold ponds of bitter water, which evaporate in the summer and leave thin incrustations of snow-white alkaline salts. " The average depth of the river- valleys of the first and second prairie steppes is not affected by the general descent of the country through which they run. From Little Boggy Creek to the Arrow River the Assiniboine must fall four or five hundred feet, yet the banks of the valley maintain the same general height and the same character through- out the whole distance. Similarly, the fall in the Calling River from the Sand Hills Lake to its junction with the Assiniboine, cannot be far from 600 feet, and still its valley banks have the same average height throughout. The fall in the Red River from Moorhead to Fort Garry, is upwards of 200 feet ; but in the whole distance the banks of the river have a nearly uniform height of 20 or 30 feet. * * " The great valleys of the third steppe cut entirely through the drift and far down into the underlying Tertiary and Cretaceous rocks ; tliose of the second steppe appear to correspond in a general way with the depth of the drift, while on the lowest steppe, th? streams have merely cut through the modified deposits resting on the drift, which latter is occasionally exposed at low water at the foot of the banks, or in the bed of the stream at swift places and rapids. ♦ # # «( ipijg stratified clay, silt, sand and gravel of the Red River and the lower Assiniboine vary in thickness from almost nothing to 80 or 90 feet so far as known ; and a variable thickness of boulder-clay is interposed between these deposits and the older rocks, which lie beneath them all. * * During the past summer a number of new wells have been dug or bored through these deposits in various parts of Manitoba. After passing through the black loam at the surface, which varies from 1 to 6 feet in depth, light grey, drab, and more frequently yellowish, somewhat sandy clays were passed through, when hai-d pebbly and bouldery clay, or, in some cases, probably solid rock was reached. # # # Some of the superficial clays around the City of Winnipeg have been found, within the last two years, to make, under propor skill, ' white ' brick of an excellent quality, resembling those of Toronto. The principal buildings in the city are now being constructed of these bricks. In other places around Winnipeg, red bricks have been made from clay dug near the surface. In the district between the south end of Manitoba Lake and the Assiniboine River (east of a line drawn from Prairie Portage to Westbourne,) all the wells have passed through sand ; none of them required to bo dug to a greater depth than about 20 feet to find good water." ^' '" 8 18 Geological Swrvey of Canada, 1873-4. Observations by Mr. Selwyn, p. 21. "Extensive exposures of palaeozoic rocks, which are supposed to underlie the super- ficial deposits of the first prairie steppe, occur on many of the islands and along the whole of the western shore of Lake Winnipeg. They form the Grand Rapid of the Saskatchewan, and crop out at intervals along the river as far up as Cumberland or Pine Island Lake. * * * In the comparatively few localities where the rocks composing it have been examined they appear to bo characterized, like the formations of the same age in Western Canada, by deposits of salt and petroleum giving rise to copious springs of these valuable materials. And there seems but little doubt that Canada has her salt and oil bearing regions, surpassing in extent and productive capacity any hitherto developed on the American Continent. # * # !li "Westward from the summit of the ascent to the second prairie steppe, which is marked by the long range of low Jiills already mentioned extending north westerly from Pembina Mountain to Basquia Hills, and which attains an average elevation of 1,600 feet, the country, on the route which we travelled, especially after crossing the Assini- boine River at Fort EUice,. is generally undulating or rolling and often hilly. Some of the hills rise to from 200 to 300 feet and occasionally to as much as 400 feet above the general level of the prairie, and afford from their summits extensive views of the surrounding country, which everywhere presents a park-like aspect ; belts, patches and clumps of woodland with intervening richly grassed meadows or wide stretches of oi^en undulating prairie, inters^jersed with countless lakes and pools are seen on all sides, while the wonderful variety and beauty of the flowering plants, roses, lilies, gentians, sun- flowers, larkspur, a beautiful purjile aromatic mint-like plant, and a host of others lend an additiomil charm to the beauties of this picturesquely lovely landscape." Asdniboine and Saskatchewan Exploi-ing Expedition, by II. Y. Hind. Journals Legislative Assembly, Canada, 1859. Ajipendix No. 36, " Tlie most striking peculiarity in the arrangement of the different formations, from Red River to the South Branch, and from the 49th parallel to the main (north) Saskat- chewan, is their undisturbed and horizontal condition. With two or three exceptions, no appearance of local disturbance was observed throughout the whole region traversed. The rocks dip, generally, with a very gentle inclination from the north-east to the south- west. Sometimes it is not only impossible to detect any dip by the eye, but the level fails to show the smallest deviation from perfect horizontality. # # # From the Saskatchewan at Grand Rapids to Red River, exposures of Silurian rocks are everywhere numerous on the west shores of the great lake. * '■' * Salts springs occur on the east flank of Dauphin Lake, within ten miles of the outcrop of the cretaceous rocks on the flanks of the Riding Mountain, which leads to the inference that the carboniferous group is totally wanting in the region where it might be supposed to exist, between Lakes Manitoba and Winnipegoosis and the range of high land forming the eastern watershed of the Assiniboine." Appendix No. 36, Journals Legislative Assembly, Canada. Bpport of Mr. S. J. Dawson, 1859. " The country westward of Red River, as far as we have explored it, presents three divisions, which, although presenting many features in common, are yet of a character in some respects distinctly different. " Of these the great alluvial flat, extending from the 49th parallel to the Ssvskatchewan, founded to the eastward and north-eastward by Lake Winnipeg and the wooded region 19 between Red River and the Lake of the Woods, and on the west by the high lands which extend from the boundary line to the Basquia Mountain, on the Saskatchewan, may be regarded as tiie first. It has a length of 340 miles and an average width of 60 or 70, and may embrace an area of 20,400 square miles. About one-third of this extent is chiefly open prairie land, and the remaining two-third? mostly wooded. From Pembina to Lake Winnipeg the prairie land vastly predominates, but, from thence north-westward to the Saskatchewan, the forests gradually become more dense luitil they cover the entire face of the country. The whole of this region in very level, and, if exception is made of the lands immediately bordering on Lake Winnii)eg and the SaskatcheAvan, the soil is of an alluvial description, and so rich, that, as experience has shown, wheat may be grown for 20 successive years without exhausting it. A considerable portion of the area is occupied by swamps and lakes, but the swamps, so far as I had an opportunity of observing them, are mere marshes with a bottom of alluvial soil, similar to that of the dry prairie, and so firm that hoi-ses and cuttle can wade through them in almost any direction. They seem to owe their existence solely to the extreme tlatness of the country, and as they are at a much higher level than the streams, which all run in deep channels, they might be very easily drained ; indeed, with a proper system of drainage, the whole of this great alluvial flat, might be brought under cultivation, except, of course, where it is periodically overflowed, and the extent to which it is subject to be so is quite insignificant as com- pared to the whole area. Of the lakes, the Manitoba, the Wiunipegoosis and Shoal Lake are the principal, and these uuiv occupy an area of about 2,700 square miles. " The streams which flow through the prairie are all bordered more or less by forests, in which oak and elm of fair sizo are to be met with, altliough not in very great quantities. In the wooded, of which, however, less is known, poplar predominates, but on the bordei-s of the lakes and streams, larch, spruce, birch and oak are to be found, of a size and quality available for economic purposes. " The second natural division embraces the hilly region which forms the south- western boundary or embankment of the great alluvial flat which hiis just been described ; it extends from the 4'Jth parallel to the Saskatchewan, a distance in a north-westerly direction of 360 miles, and may have an average width of 40 miles. " This region is of a character more varied, and, perhaps, on that account more in- teresting than any other part of the country. High rolling banks and elevated plateaux, covered with dense forests, alternate with wide spread valleys of unsurpassed fertility. Numerous streams, taking their rise among the hills, run with a rapid course towards the Assiniboino on the one side, and to the Manitoba and Wiunipegoosis Lakes on the other. Of these the principal are the Dauphin River, Duck River, Swan River, Red Deer River, and the Wauketsequapawoo, or Floating Ice River, which flow into the Wiunipegoosis Lake ; and Shell River, Birdtail Creek, Arrow River, Rapid River and Oak River which run into the Assiniboine. The hills are known as the Riding Mountain, Duck Mountain, Porcirpine Hill, Thunder Mountain, . 233. " The prairies of Red River at Fort Garry are about 80 feet above the level of Lake "Winnipeg. They form the southern portion of a v;ist region of lake, swamp and marsh, which is bounded in a very well defined mtmner by the Pembina Mountain and its continuation to the Saskatchewan, which river it crosses a few miles below the Nepowewin Mission, opposite Fort a la Come. Pembina Mountain forms the western limit of an ancient sea or lake coast ; its direction is partly shown on ti.osed edges of the unfoasiliferous rim of the great basin in which they lie. # * # " Besides the imposing Hiding and Duck Mountains tlie Touchwood Hills may be enumented as very im[)ortant antl striking in a region whose marked chara iteristic is that of a gently sloping plain. These hills lie between the head waters of the Assiniboino and the South Branch ; the elevation of the highest [jeak, the Heart Hill, pro'iably does not exceed 700 feet above the geneml ler-^l of the great plain. The courae of this range is from north-east to south-west, and it forms the most prominent of several ranges which lie parallel to one another." T/ie Great Lone Land, by Capt. W. F. Butler, F.R.G.S., p. 217. " About midway between Fort EUice and Carlton a sudden and well-defined change occurs in the character of the country ; the light soil disappears, and its place is succeeded by a rich dark loam covered deep in grass and vetches. Beautiful hills swell in slopes more or less abrupt on all sides, whUe lakes fringed with thickets and clumps of good sized poplar balsam lie lap|>ed in their fertile hollows. " This region bears the name of the Touchwood Hills. Around it, far into endless space, fitretch immense plains of bare and scanty vegetation, plains seareil with the tracks of countless buffalo which, until a few years ago, were wont to roam in vast herds l)etween the Assiniboine and Saskatchewan. * * # There is something unspeakably melancholy in the aspect of this portion of the North-west. Fiom one of the westward jutting spurs of the Touchwood Hills the eye sees far away over an immense plain ; the sun goes down, and as he sinks u])on the earth the straight lino of the horizon becomes visible for a moment across his blood-red disc, but so distant, so far away, that it seems dream-like in its immensity." 7 . .. ;,;»• Geological Survey of Cartada, 1874-5. Jieport of Mr. J. W. S2ienser,p. 60. " Porcupine Mountain forms as a continuation of the chain of high ground which marks the eastern limit of the second of the three great prairie steppes of the North-west Territory. It rises to the height of about 800 feet above Swan Lake. Between the base of the mountain and the lake is a belt of about 12 miles of low ground, consisting of open marshes, or * muskegs,' tamarac swamps, (fee, while the remainder of the interval is densely wooded with aspen, balsam-poplar, spruce and willow. On the slope of the mountain I saw balsam-poplar six leet in diameter, while, in some cases, the spinxces reached a thickness of nearly four feet. * * * "In many exposures along Swan River there, is but a thin covering of drift over the underlying cretaceous i-ocks. IJetween the foot of the eastern slopes of the Duck and Porcupine Mountains and the lakes, the Devonian limestones are cevered by only a few feet of drift. The following is a section, in descending order, of these deposi -3, as they occur in Swan River, opposite Thunder Hill : — ft. in. " Surface soil 3 "Bed of Laurentian bouldei-s and pebbles 2 " Stratified coarse sand 6 '* Bed of Laurentian bouldera and pebbles 2 "Stratified coarse sand , 6 " Laminated clay , 1 " Homogeiuious clav with pebbles.... !«.« t 3 ' 13 t s r t( s 28 " Near this section, below Thunder Hilla, are springs depositing yellow ocln-e. A little further down I observed other springs at which tlie [jrocesis of petrifying wood, moss and leaves was going on. Here there were blocks of calcareous tufa, sometimes measur- ing several cubic yards, which had been formed, at the place where they are found. The thickest vertical section of limestone beds on the river amounted to about 15 feot." Sketch of the NortJirwest of America, hy Archblsliop Tache, p. 13. " The great expanse of the prairies tells plainly that their geological formations must vary. The prairie, which touches the desert, includes, like the neighboring country, secondary formation, while towards its extremity it has transition rocks, for example, the calcareous strata of Red River and coal fields of the Saskatchewan. The Silurian system occurs in its neighborhood and sometimes runs into old red sandstone. Extensive deposits of sulphate of soda are found in the neighborhood of the calcareous strata and elsewhere. The valleys of rivers and the drying up in the forests, everywhere multiply recent formations. There are thick alluvial beds there, and these become covered with vegetable deposit, sometimes also of great depth." Appenlic N'o. 36 to Journctls of the Legislative Asaemblu, Cannda, 1859. Report hj Mr. A. W. Wells. " The western shores of Lake Winnipegoosis, in common with the other lakea through which I passed, is much better adapted for settlement th m the eastern one, inasmuch as the land is higher, and the climate, if anything, a little batter. In crossing Like Winnipegoosis from east to west, a distance of only about 12 miles, I found vegetation somewhat further advanced than on the side I had just left, the soil is also better, inas- much as that it is higher. Timber, such as maple, elm, oak and poplar covers the country to the water's edge. I visited several places where sugar had baen made and saw specimens of that article equal to any that I had ever seen in Eastern Canada. " The Duck Mountain, which occupies almost the entire background, commences to rise not far from the lake shore, keeping a gentle ascent for 1 5 or 20 miles back, where it attains its greatest elevation, a height of 600 or 700 feet above the level of the lake. The entire face of the mountain is a succession of gentle slopes and flat table lands, and .the summit itself is an exten.sive plateau of alluvial soil covered with a fine growth of timber." # * =:= ' • TOPOGUAPHICAL CHARACTERISTIC'S. ''> ?l Canadian Exploring Exiyedition, hj II. Y. Hind. Vul. I, p. 244. •'The western and south-western slopes of Riding and Duck Mountains support heavy forests of white spruce, birch, aspen and poplar. The trees are of large size and often exceed IJ to 2 feet in diameter, with an available length of 30 to 50 feet. On the siimmit plateau of the Riding Mountains the white spnice is the largest tree ; here it attains vast dimensions, and is found in quantities sufficient to give to this region a great economic value. The wooded area over which timber of the four kind of trees enumerated, is found on the Riding and Duck Mountains, has a length of 120 miles, with a breadth of 30 miles. In the valley of the Assiniboine is an extensive and valuable forest of oak, elm, ash, maple, poplar and aspen, with an average breadth of four miles ; its length is about 30 miles. * * All the affluents of the Assmiboine flow through deep ravines, which they have cut in the great plain they drain ; these narrow valleys are well clothed with timber, consisting chiefly of aspen and balsam-poplar, but often varied with bottoms of oak, elm, ash and the osh-leaved maple." I 24 Ibid, p. 245. "The Touchwood Hill range, together with small parallel ranges, such as the Pheasant Mountain and File Hill, averaging twenty miles in length by ten in breadth, are in great part covered with aspen forests, but the trees ai-e generally small. At the Moose Woods, on the South Saskatchewan, forests of aspen begin to appear ; they con- tinue with occasional admixtures of birch ^nd oak, more rarely of oak and elm, as far as the Grand Forks'; here the spruce becomes common, and with aspen, occupies the excavated valley of the Saskatchewan for many miles. The hill banks and the plateau on the south side of the river, for a distance of three or four miles south, sustain the Banksian pine, which disappears as the soil changes from a light sand to a rich and deep vegetable mould, supporting detached groves of aspen and clumps of willow. * '■' '•' The south branch, from the Elbow to the Moose Woods, flows through a treeless region as far as relates to the prairie on either side ; but in the i-avines leading to the river detached groves of small timber occur. The boundaiy of the prairie country, properly so called, may be roughly shown by a line drawn from the great bend of the Little Souris, or Mouse River, to Qu' Apjtelle Mission, and from the Mission to the Moose Woods, on the South Branch." / . • ' ■ ' Ibid, p. 246. " Issuing from the Duck Mountain are numerous streams which meander through a beautiful and fertile country. This area may be said to commence at the two creeks, ten miles from Fort Pelly, thence on to Pine Creek, fifteen miles furthei*. The vegetation is everywhere luxuriant and beautiful, from the great abundance of rose bushes, vetches, and gaudy wildflowers of many species. After passing Pine Creek the trail to Shell River pursues a circutuons route through a country of equal richness and fertility." Ibid, p. 249. "Valley of the Stiskatchewan. — 1. The country between the Lumpy Hill of the Woods and Fort a la Corns, or the Nepowewin Mission, including the valley of Long Creek and the region west of it, bounded by the south branch of the Main Saskatchewan. This area may contain 600,000 acres of land of the firat quality. , " 2. The valley of Can'ot River and the country included between it and the Main Saskatchewan bounded on the south side by the Bii'ch Hill range. There is a narrow strip on the gi-eat river, about 5 miles broad, where the soil is light and of an indifferent quality. The area of available land probably does not exceed 3,000,000 acres. " 3. The country about the Moose Woods on the South Saskatchewan. "4. The Touchwood Hills. " 5. The Pheasant Hill and the File Hill. The aggregate area of these fertile dlstricis may be stated to extend over 500,000 acres. " Assuming that the prairies of Red River, and the Assiniboine east of Prairie Poi-t- age contain an available area of 1,500,000 acres of fertile soil, the total quantity of arable land included between Red River and the Moose Woods on the south branch of the Saskatchewan will be 11,100,000 acres. Of land for gi*azing purposes, the area is much more considerable, and may be assumed equal in extent to the above estimate of amble land." i.^ 96 ■ Report of Progreaa, Canadian Pacific Railway, 187 -i, p. 37. " Proceeding towards the Touchwood Hills, we met gentle slopes covered with the aspen, with occasional small lakett, Ringed by willows, many of them saline. " Much of the land has been devastai 3d by fire, and it is thought that this cause, repeated frequently, has, after a series of years, resulted in the entire destruction of the heavy wood which, it is believed, once covered the surface of these prairies. The aspens, however, quickly grow up, five or six years' life making them sufficiently large for fencing purposes. " About 110 miles to the north-west of Fort Ellice, the Touchwood Hills are met. These are mere undulating eminences, partly wooded, with remarkably good soil and apparently well adapted for settlement; they gradually descend on the western side. Some difficulty was found in this neighborhood in obtaining water. * . * * " Scarcely any rivers are met; it is observable, however, that several running streams are found further north. II " The route, on which we were travelling, explains this feature of physical geography, for we were on the watershed between the Assiniboine and the South Saskatchewan. We found that this part of the route is generally without timber, but it contains spots where slight wooded knolls are met. Apparently level, in reality there is a considerable ascent, as the country is travelled westward. "From Fort Garry to Fort Edmonton, there is a rise of 1,400 feet in a distance of 900 miles by trail, while a farther rise of 900 is experienced before the base of the mountain chain is met. Thus the total additional elevation of 2,300 is spread over 1,000 miles. ♦ * In some poi'tions of this, heavy rolling ground is found, and the soil varies in richness. Gravel is present in some of the higher ridges, and it is confidently believed that there would be ballasting obtainable for railway purposes without great difficulty. " Before reaching the south branch of the Saskatchewan, the country is an agreeable mixture of woodland and prairie with several lakes of moderate dimensions and with a rolling succession of knolls . The landscape was usually pleasing, the soil excellent, and we saw abundant wild flowers. Very many of the lakes are brackish, yet they often adjoin fresh water lakes ; the latter we found invariably at a higher level. At the foot of a ridge they are more frequently saline ; on mounting the slope they prove to be fresh," Assiniboine ami Saskatchewan Exploring Expedition, by Henry Youle Hind. Report of Progress IV. " The south branch of the Saskatchewan is a noble river, varying in width from half a mile to 300 yards, for a distance of 100 miles from the Elbow; it then gradually con- ti'acts its channel and changes its character from a river full of sandbars and mud-flats pursuing a comparatively straight course, to a rapid and uniform torrent of water, sweeping down Jie narrow but deep valley which it has excavated, from one bank to the other in magnificent curves, until it joins the North Branch. # * ♦ The Main Saskatchewan is a river of very imposing magnitude. Like the South Branch it occupies a narrow, deep valley, varying in width from one and a half to three miles, extending a few miles below the Nepowewin Mission. It flows in grand curves from side to side, and its gent il level is about 300 feet below the country through which it has excavated ita channel, after which it enters the low region. 4 26 * * * "In the large expanse of countiy, over whicli our explorations have extended, the area of land of the firtit quality, namely, oiF black vegetable mould, reposing on gravel or clay is far more extensive and important than wo anticipated. It is dis- tributed as follows : — " 1. On the South Branch of the Saskatchewan, from the Moose Woods to the Nepowewin Mission, and according to the description of half-breeds familiar with the country, a soil of equal excellence extends to the valley of the Swan River. The immediate banks of the Saskatchewan are of a poor, sandy or gravelly soil, but on the prairie plateau three miles from the river, the rich soil commences, and in the part over which I passed has a breadth of 60 miles. , , „ . , . " 2. The Touchwood Hill range, having an area exceeding 1,000,000 acres ; for beauty of scenery, richness of soil, and adaptation for settlement, this is by far the most attractive area west of the Assiniboine. " 3. The soil is of first quality in the valley of Swan River, and over the whole of the e.ast watershed of the Assiniboine, with the exception of tJie country near its banks. " 4. The valley of White Miid River is generally fertile and inviting. * * * " The ratio which land of excellent quality bears to land of indifferent or worthless quality in tlio regions just refen-ed to, is largely in favor of the former. '•' * '■' " Riding Mountain is timbered with heavy aspen. On the level country drained by the Saskatchewan, from the Moose Woods to the Nepowewin Mission, the timber is small, but on the Touchwood Hill range there are some fine aspen forests." Geuloifical Survey oj Canada, 18734. Observations hij Mr. Sclwyn, p. 28. ''■'• "■" * "The beauties of Touchwood Hills have been so graphically described by Professor Hind, that I cannot do better than reproduce what he says of this really lovely tract of country. Professor Hind says, under date 15th August, 1858 : — ' In the afternoon we began the ascent of a gently rolling slope at the foot of the Touch- wood Hills ; patches of willow appear hero fringing small areas of good pasturage. At 6 p.m. we reached the summit plateau and then passed through a very beautiful undulating country diversified with many picturesque lakes and aspen groves possessing soil of the best quality and covered with the most luxuriant herbage. There is no timber visible on the west side of the Jtingo with the exception of small aspen and burnt willow bushes. All the wild flowers, so beautiful and numerous in the valley of the Long Creek, ai-e met with on the summit plateau of the Touchwood Hills, of even larger growth and greater profusion. Little prairie openings fringed with aspen, occur here and there through which the trail passes. We then come siuldenly on the V)anks of a romantic lakelet, on which ducks M'ith their young broods are swimming, and white cranes start from their secluded haunts at the unexpected intrusion. The breadth of this beautifid plateau is about four miles, its level above the salt ])rairie to the west may be about 500 feet. The range appears to consist of a series of drift hills, many of which lise in roundtd dome-shaped forms from the summit plateau.' , , - , " The above description is applicable to nearly the whole of the country between the old post and the Little Touchwood Hills Fort. On the flanks and summits of most of the ridges and rounded ' "• * " Travelling all day over the ' Great Salt Plain,' (alluded to before as a projection of the United States baiTcn lauds), a treeless prairie. In the depressions for the last six miles dwarfed poplars and willow bushes from three to five feet high prevail. The soil is a blackish loam, rather sandy, on a subsoil of rather white looking gravel. Limestone and gneiss iu lai'ge and small blocks ai'e pretty thickly distributed over the surface. " This district contains some saline lakes and brackish water, described as follows by Mr. Selwyn : — " Rapid evaporation duiing summer and probably a considerable amount of percolation through the sandy drifts removes the remainder, and these causes are quite sufficient to account for the generally saline character of the numerous lakes and pools. Many of these salme lakes are as much as three, four and five miles in length, and occasionally from one to two miles wide. They occur either in isolated irregular basin-shaped hollows or forming chains of lakes in rather broad valley-like depressions extending manj' miles, but closed in on all sides by rounded drift-formed lulls with gi'assy slopes. When occurring this way the lowest lake in the chain receives the drainage of the others, and I observed in all such cases that while the waters of the uppermost was either quite fresh or only slightly brackish, that in the lowest lake would be intensely salt and bitter. ■■' ■'• * " Mount Carmcl (Big Hill) risefi about 110 or IGO feet above tho road at its base, and from its summit an extensive view is obtained of the surrounding country, csspecially to the westward, in which tliere is a general fall towards the valley of the South Saskatchewan. Mount Carmel seems t© be entirely composed of drift, and on its flanks and summit, which are partially covered with aspen and willow copse-wood, there are numbers of large angular boulders ot buff-colored limestone holding fossils, garnetiferons gneiss and mica schist and slaty diorite. In some ilircctions as far as the eye can reach similar hills and ridges follow each other in endless succession, and apparently without definite arrangement or parallelism. From the lowest depressions to the summit of the highest ridge is often not less than 300 feet, and from ]\louut Carmel I counted fifteen distinct lakes and pools, while many more ^\'ere only concealed from view by intervening ridges. ■•' Rainy Hills arc low drift hills interspersed with many lakes, pools and clumps and patches of copse-wood, with intervening open grassy plains." * * ■••' Canadian Exploring 'Expedition, hij II. Y. Hind. Vol. 1, ;'. -107. * * " The valley through which tho small tributary of the south branch flows, separates the Lumpy Hill of the Woods from tho west flank of the Birch Hills ; it is rich in alluvial meadows, ponds and lakes. A view from Lumpy Hill is very extensi'/e. The altitude of this eminence is about iOO feet above the general level, and from its summit an undulating open country, dotted with lakes and flanked by the Bircli Hills is visible towards the east ; soutli and south-west is a luho region, also north and north-east. These hikes are numerous and large, often three miles long and two broad. Seventeen largo lakes can be counted from the Lumpy Hill ; low ranges of hills can also be discerned in several directions. Tho most important ol" these are the Bloody Hills, tlio Woody Hills, far in tho prairie west of the South Branch, and tho cliain of tho Birch Hills running from the Lumpy Hills easterly. The view extends to the border of the wooded land ; Ijeyond is a ti'oeless prairie. The so-called wooded land now consists of widely separated groves of small aspens, with willows in tho low places. Much of tho soil on tho south and oast of Lumpy Hill is sandy and poor. IjOw liills and long ridges running north-cast by cast, and «outh.west by sou.th, divci-sify tho general level character of the prairies aa bccu from Lutnuy Hill. * "' * 28 " After traversing a very undulating country, in which are low ranges of hills and conical mc>unds with limestone boulders on their summits, we arrived at Big Hill, a point of some interest, for south and south-east of it lies a boundless undulating pi-airie. * * * The limit of the so-called ' Wooded Country,' is about 70 miles from the North Branch in an air line, and 30 miles from the South Branch. " From the summit of the Big Hill the ' Bxiffalo Cart Plain,' and * Lake where the Moose died,* are visible; both noted localities in the wild history of these regions. South-east of the Big Hill the trail winds through a dreary labyrinth of dome-shaped hills, many of them covered with boulders. =>: >i! * " In journeying from the Lumpy Hill we crossed three ' belts of wood ' before arriving at the great prairie west of the Touchwood Hills. These belts, which consist of gi-ovea of small aspen, following a low gravelly ridge about a mile broad, and having a north-east and south- west dii'ection, are separated by prairie valleys which sustain in their lowest parts a good soil and fine pasturage. Ea^h belt diminished to a point some ten or fifteen miles south-west of our track. The points of these belts aro visible from the summit of mounds on our trail, not more than 50 feet high ; beyond them ia a treeless prairie, stretching away to the South Branch. The ' belts of woods * become broader in a north- easterly direction until they merge into the wooded countiy between the Birch Kills and the Saskatchewan. There are many delightful spots in the belts, the herbage is as clean as a well-sliaven lawn, the clumps of aspen are neatly rounded as if by art, and, where little lakes alive with waterfowl abound, the scenei'y is verj- charming, and appears to be the result of taste and skill, rather than the natural features of a wild and almost uninhabited country." Canadian Exploring Expedition, by H. Y. Hind. Vol. 1, p. 435. * * * " Our route lay on the flanks of the Riding and Duck Mountains, and through a country admirably adapted for farming purposes. Ponds and lakes are vary numerous ofi" the flanks of the Riding Mountain, but as far as our opportunities enabled us to judge, the whole country, with the exception of narrow ridges, possesses a rich black fertile mould, supporting very luxuriant herbage, and on the mountain an ample supply of timber, consisting chiefly of aspen of large dimensions. The Riding and Duok Mountains consist of a succession of slopes and terraces on their south-western sides, the aucent being almost imperceptible to thick impenetrable forest which covers the highest plateau. On Birdstail Creek cretaceous shales, identical with those on the Assiniboine, crop out in different places." Ibid. Vol. I, pp. 386-393. " At a point 53 miles from the Elbow (South Saskatchewan) we made a careful section of the river and found its breadth to be one-third of a mile (28 chains) ; its greatest depth was ten feet on the east side, but on the west sido there is another channel with nine feet of water. " Approaching the Moose Woods we passed for several houra between a series of low alluvial islands from ten to twelve feet above the water. They sustain some fine elm, balsam-poplar, ash, ash-leaved maple, and a vast profusion of mesaskatomina. The river valley ia bounded by low hills leading to a prairie plateau four to eight miles back. The country here furnishes an excellent district for the establishment of a settlement. The spot where we camped for the night is an extensive, open, undulating meadow, with long rich grass, and on the low elevations rose-bushes grow in the greatest profusion. It is only ten feet from the water, yet it does not appear to be flooded iu the spring j water- IL 29 marks and ice marks are nowhere to be seen above four feet from the present level of the broad river. " The region called the Moose Woods is a dilatation of the Saskatchewan, flowing through an extensive alluvial flat six miles in breadth, and cut into numerous islands by the changing course of the stream. This flat is bounded by sand hills, some of w hich are nothing raoi-e than shifting dunes. The woods are in patches, and in the low land corsist of balsam-poplar, white wood and aspen. Small a.speu clumps cover the hills. "'■ * * The river continues to flow through a broad alluvial flat for about 25 miles. Its watfr is very turbid, like that of the Mississippi, holding much solid matter in mechanical suspension. " Beyond the Moose Woods the banks close upon the river, and have an altitude not exceeding 60 feet. The breadth of the stream contracts to 250 yards, with a cun ent fully three miles an hour. On the east bank the prairie is occasionally wooded vith clumps of aspen, on the west side it is treeless, and shows many sand hills. Nothing but a treeless, slightly undulating prairie was visible ; many large fi-agments of limestone not much watei worn lie on the hill banks of the river, which are about 100 feet in altitude. Frequent soundings showed a depth of ten or twelve feet. A little timber displays itself occasionally on the east bank below the level of the prairie. The banks exposed oocas on- ally yellow drift clay with numerous bouldei-s ; the soil of the prairie ap{)ears to improve as we progress northward, and the grass is no longer stunted or withered. Little ra]>id3 occur at thi; bends of the river, but thei'e is always deep water on the other side. * * * " In many places close to the water's edge and rising from it in a slope for a space of 25 to 30 feet, the fallen boulders are packed like stones in an artificial pavement and are often ground down to a uniform leA'el by the action of ice. This pavement is visible for many miles in aggregate length at the bends of the river. * * * Seventy-five miles from the Grand Forks the balsam spruce begins to appear in groves. The river wmds between high wooded banks with low points and wooded bottoms on one side, high clifia also wooded with aspen and spruce groves on the opposite bank. The flats are covered with a rich profusion of vetches, grasses and rose bushes. *■■!.<* \yg passed swiftly through a good country, well fitted for settlement, as far as we could judge from soil and vegetation. Low islands are numerous in the river, and extensive alluvial flats sp "ad out in an expansion of the valley." Red River. Overland Jouriiey Itouud ihc World, by Sir Gcoryc tSimpson. Vol. 1, p. 55. " On entering Red River from Luke Wiiini])og, the shores, for the first ton miles, are low and swampy, abounding in wild fowl of every kind ; but, farther uj), they rise to a height varying from 30 to 50 feet. On the eastern or right Ijank there is an abundance of poplar, birch, elm, oak, &c., pines also being i)lentiful a few miles back ; while the western side, generally speaking, is one vast prairie, with scarcely any timber. " The soil of Red River settlement is a bluek mould of considerable depth, which, when fii-st tilled, produces extraordinary crops, as nuich, on some occasions, as forty returns of wheat ; and even after twepty successive years ol cultivation, without the nlief of manui-o or of fallow, or of greeu crop, it still yields from from 15 to 25 buHhols to the acre." ' 80 Captain Pallisers Exploration in B. N. America, folio, p. 8. " Red River has its sources in the same district of marshes and lakes from which flows also the Mississippi. The course of Red River is slightly west of north to where it falls into Lake Winuipeg. At 8 or 10 miles from the lake the land on the banks of the river become sufficiently elevated to be available for agriculture ; it stretches back for many miles on either hand in tine rich savannahs or lightly timbered country. Indeed, the valley of Red River being rarely confined by lofty banks in any portion of its course, is valuable for settlement the whole way up stream and for a considerable distance south of the international line." Lake Winnipeg. Appendix No. 3 to Journals Legislative Assembly, Canada, 1858, Cap. VII. " The altitude of this extensive sheet of water above the level of the sea is G28 feet. '•■ ■•' * Lake Winnipeg is 264 miles long, by an average of 35 wide. It cer- tainly contains an area of exceeding 9,000 square miles, and is jirobably one half as large again as Lake Ontario. Connected with Lake Winnipeg by navigable channels are two other large bodies of water, Lakes Manitoba and Winnipegoosis, being together as long as Lake Winnipeg and having about half its breadth. * * '•' Lake Winnij)eg once reached, communication with the interior becomes an easy matter. The numerous rivers which unwater the valley of this great lake, with an area of 400,000 square miles, are most of them canoe, or boat routes, for many hundreil miles up their streams. Lake Winnipeg is very shallow at its southern extremity and the marshy shores abound with fresh water shells." Lakes Manitoba and Winnipegoosis. The Bed lliver Countri/, Hudson Bai/ and the North-West, by A. J. liussell, C. E., Cap. XI, p. 48. " These lakes are each 120 miles in length. The greatest breadth of Manitoba is 24 miles, and of Winnipegoosis 27. Taken together they extend 220 miles from north to south. They enclose between them and Lake Winnipeg a peninsula of 250 miles in length by 100 miles in greatest breadth, which is cui across by the Little Saskatchewan. This peninsula, though as largo as the Kingdom of Denmark, counts for little in the Nor' -West. It is reported to be a low flat country, abounding in lakes and marshes. On its coast on the north-east shore of Manitoba, Mr. Dawson states that from the mai-sh which lies behind its high shingle beach, a rich alluvial soil rises gradually to a moderate height, not subject to be flooded. As it is a limestone country and thickly wooded, the soil must necessarily bo very fertile, where there is depth enough of it ; which shoidd at least frequently be the case in a low level country. Round the south end of Lake Mani- toba, for a circuit of about 50 miles, the soil is that of the richest description of prairie land. Tiio few settlers consider it even superior to that of Rod River. It is an undu- lating country of mingled woods and prairie. "The White Mad River, a stream of about SO miles in length by its coui-se, which has its sources in the soutliorn skirts of the Riding Mountains, and flows eastward to the south end of Lake Manitoba, is described as passing through an exceedingly beautiful and fertile countiy of pi'airies, thickly interspersed with woods, tho soil of which is a rich sandy loam. This very rich prairio laud stretches southwax-ds to tho Sand Hills on tho Assiniboine, and eastward to Rod River. Between the uj)por end of Lake Manitoba and the Riding Mountaiusj and dttiunVl Lako Dtuphin, thtJlD 13 much rich grouttdj dud much of it Ih tfery mdtthy." 81 ." ''' '■ ' ' '\!' Navigation. In reply to a letter requesting information concerning the capabilities of rivera in the North-West for navigation, Hon. Donald A. Smith, M.P., wrote as follows : — ".",. • "HuDSOx Bay House, Montreal, 28th July, 187G. "The information I have received on this subject is to the effect that the Saskatchewan River is navigable by steamboats drawing 2^ to 3J feet of water, from the head of the Grand Rapid, some four miles from the point where that river empties into Lake Winnipeg, to the Rocky Mountain House, a distance of eleven hundred to twelve hundred miles, from about the 1st of June till the middle of September. "The ice on the Saskatchewan, at Edmonton, generally breaks up between the ISth and the 20th of April, and by the 1st of May the river may be said to be clear all the way down to the Grand Rapid. For three or four yeai-s back the water has been sufficiently high, as early as the 10th to the 15th of May, for the passage of steamboats ; but, as already mentioned, this cannot be depended on before the beginning of June ; and it is very seldom that Lake Winnipeg is sufficiently clear of ice to enable boats to reacli the mouth of tho Saskatchewan before the 8th to the 10th of the latter month. " The interruptions to the navigation of the Saskatchewan, with one e.vception, that of Cole's Falls, are comparatively unimportant. The first occurs about two miles above the Grand Rapid, at the ' Roches Rouges,' where the current is very strong, the next being i\t the ' Demi Charge,' about eight miles further ; again at the * Tholturii,' or 'Nepo- win Rapid,' some thirty miles below Foi-t a la Come, there is a very strong current, but not such as to require the use of the warp to surmount it. The Coles' Falls immediately above tho junction with the South Brancli of the Saskatchewan, a chain of fourteen rapids, extending over about twelve miles, occur. Of these, three are much interrupted by boulders, which it is believed could readily be removed at little expense, giving a good channel. After this there is no great strength of current until Cross Rapid is r(>aclied, about half way between Fort Pitt and Edmonton ; and above the latter jdaco the navi- gation is easy for fifty miles, after which, throughout the greater part of the distance to the Rocky Mountain House, the current is very strong, but still such as can be readily overcome by a boat of good power. " From Carlton upwanls there are a good many shifting sandbanks, rendering the channel in some places tortuous. Of these the pi-incipal occur off tho mouth of Battle River ; but with good pilotage a good chaimel is always to be found between tliem. " The 'Northcote,' a steamboat of about one hundred and fifty feet in length, last year proceeded from the Grand Rapid to Edmonton with a full cargo, and she is at ])resent gone on her second trip this season to the same place. "The ordinary Hudson's Bay freight boats, tho dimensions of which are about thiity- two feet keel, or from stem to stern forty-five feet, with a IniMidth of beam of ten feet, cariying from four to five tons of cargo, and drawing when loadcul about two-and-a-half feet of water, have navigated tho Saskatchewan for many years. These boats are waqted up the Grand Rajnds from Lake Winnipeg, the depth of water and breadth of channel in these rapids being amply sufficient, and tho only difficulty of surmounting them being the great force of the current. Eight men aro employed in tracking a boat of this description, in every ciuse the jgreator portion of tho cargo being carried across tho Portages. " Between Fort Pitt and Carlton, wood for fuel is scarce, and not'easily obtained ; but with this exception it can without difficulty be procured along the whole extent of the river. " Coal is also found at several points from Fort Victoria (about ninety miles below Edmonton) upwards, and at eighty miles above Edmonton it crops out in a large mass, the seam being represented as being upwards of fifty feet in thickness. This coal has for many years been used by blacksmiths, and found to answer their purpose sufficiently well. I :!: '•i ' " These few remarks are hurriedly thi'own together ; but I shall be glad at any time to furnish such further information as it may be in my power to give on the subject." Tlie Bed River Country, Iludaan^a Bay and North- West Territories, by A. J. Russell, C.E. p. 52. "As the Little Saskatchewan, the outlet ot Lake Manitoba, is a fine, navigable stream of 750 feet in breadth, and the Waterhen River or Sangissippi, which connects Lakes Manitoba and Winnipegoosis, has a broad channel not less than three feet deep at low water, they present together with these lakes an unbroken line of water communi- cation from Fort Garry to Mossy Portage, at the head of Lake Winnipegoosis, a distance of about 500 mUes. " Mossy Portage, which is only about four miles and a quai'ter in length, through low ground, connects the head of Lake Winnipegoosis with Cedar Lake on the Saskatche- wan, above its great rapids. A short canal there would unite the navigation by these lakes from Fort Garry with that of the River Saskatchewan, (from Cedar Lake upwards) which for nearly a thousand miles presents no greater obstructions to navigation than are to be found on the River Ohio. This would form a line of water communication about 1500 miles in length from Fort Garry to the foot of the Rocky Mountains. ■•' * * The area drained by the South Saskatchewan is gi-eater than that of the Rhine, and the watershed of the Rocky Mountains drained by it is greater than that of the Alps, drained by the Rhine, and the excess of its volume would be much greater were it not for the extent of dry prairie land it passes through." 1 :« I ^ 88 CHAPTER III. CLIMATE, SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS OF LAKE WINNIPEG BASIN. . I Manitoba and the North-West of the Dominion, by Thos, Speuce, pji. 18-22. " The natural division of the seasons in the valley of Lake Winnipeg is as follows : — " (S^prin^r.— April and May. " Summer. — June, July, August, and part of September. " Autumn. — Part of September and October. " Winter. — November, December, January, February, and March. " The peculiarity of spring is strikingly represented by the early and rapid advance- ment of temperature in May. It is the excessive cold of the long winter season, embracing five months of the year in this latitude, which reduces the annual mean, being 34° 38', while that of Montreal is 42^ 03' ; but Blodget claims that the whole Saskatchewan Valley has a climate very near as mild, in its annual average, as that of Wisconsin, Northern New York, and Ontario, which would give it a winter mean of 15 degrees. The mean for the three months, December, January and February, at Fort Garry, in Manitoba, is 16° 85' ; at Montreal, 16° 83'. In April and May, the mean temperature rises to 39° 83', and 58"^ 46', being about equal to Toronto. The winter climate grows rapidly mUder in the same parallel westward, even where there is an increase of elevation, and in the Saskatchewan Valley, almost represents the climate of Ontario. " The buffaloes have wintered in myriads on the nutritious grasses of its pi-airies, up to as high a latitude as Lake Athabaska ; and the Half-breeds and Indians camp out in the oj^en plains during the whole of the winter, with no shelter but a buffalo skin tent and robes, and horses of the settlera run at large and grow fat on the gi-asses which they pick up in the woods and bottoms. " The average fall of snow is about six inches per month. The snow falls in small quantities, at different times, and is rarely blown into drifts so as to impede travelling. With the new year commences the extreme cold of our winter, when, for a few days, the mercury ranges from 15 to 85 degrees below zero, falling sometimes even below that. Yet the severity of these days is much softened by the brilliancy of the sun, and the stillness of the air. Thus, while in lower latitudes, they are being drenched by the cold rain storms, or buried beneath huge drifts of wintry snow, Manitoba enjoys a dry atmosphere, with bright cloudless days, and serene i starlight nights ; and when the moon turns her full orbed face towards the earth, the n ght scene of Manitoba is one of peerless grandeur. " According to Blodget, Indian corn is restricted as a profitable staple to the middle regions of the West, between parallels 42° and 43°. Wheat is the leading staple of the upi^er belt of the temperate zone. Blodget (an American authority) states, ' that the basin of the Winnipeg is the seat of the greatest average wheat product on this continent, and probably in the world.' The limestone sub-strata of this region, with its rich deep 6 ! I M 84 calcareous loam and retentive clay subsoil is always associated with a rich wheat develop- ment, while its hot and humid summers fulfil all the climatological conditions of a first- rate wheat country. Some fields on the Red River have been known to produce twenty successive crops of wheat without fallow or manure, and the yield has frequently reached as high as forty bushels per acre. An important feature in the soil of Manitoba and the North-west is, that its earthy materials are minutely pulverized, and the soil is every- where light, mellow and spungy. With these uniform characteristics, the soils are of different grades of fertility, according to local situations. A general ingredient of the soil is sand, of which silica is the base, as of all good soils. It jilays an important part in the economy of growth, and is an essential constituent in the organism of all cereals. We are told that about 67 per cent of the ash of the stems of wheat, corn, rye, barley, oats, &c., is pure silica, or flint. It is this which gives the glazed coating to the plants and gives sti*ength to the stalk. Now this silica is an acid and is insoluble, but readily combines with lime, soda, magnesia, potash and the other ingredients of our soil, and in this condition is readily available to the use of the plant, and forms an essential element in the growth of the cereals ; from this and other causes is attributable the superiority of our wheat over all other grown east or south." Beport of Select Committee on Immifjration and Colonization, 1876. Evidence, p. 20. Professor Macoun'o " A continuous farming country extends from Point Du Chien to the Assiniboine at Fort EUice, a distance of 230 miles, without a break. Beyond this there are 25 miles of dry gravelly ground of little account for anything except pasture. Then follows a very extensive tract of country sti'etching westward to the South Saskatchewan, and extending indefinitely north and south. This wide region contains many fine sections of rich fertile country, interspersed with poplar groves, rolling treeless prairie, salt lakes, saline and other marshes, and brackish or fresh water ponds. \ ''hat is not suited for raising cereals is excellent pasture land. Only a few of the salt lakes would be injurious to cattle or horses ; and fresh water can be obtained without doubt a little below the siu*face. " The soil of this whole region is a warm gravelly or sandy loam. The surface soil to a depth of from one to throe feet, is a brown or black loam. The subsoil being generally either sand or gravel, consisting principally of limestone pebbles ; many boulders are found in some sections. The land between the two Saskatchewans is nearly all good. Prince Albert Mission settlement is situated in this section. At Carlton, I crossed the North Saskatchewan, and therefore know nothing personally of the immense region ex- tending thence west and south to the boundary. All accounts, however, agree in saying it is the garden of the country. Good land, generally speaking, extends northward to Green Lake, a distance of 170 miles from Carlton. How much further eastward this good land extends I am unable to state ; but Sir John Richardson says that wheat is raised Mdthout difficulty at Cumberland House. Tlie good arable land is about 25 miles wide at Edmon- ton, but possibly not so wide at Fort Pitt, more to the east but further north. This region is bounded on the south by the North Saskatchewan, and on the north by the watershed between it and the Beaver and Athabasca Rivers. Within this area there are five settlements where wheat is raised regularly without difficulty, viz. : the Star Mission (Church of England), 60 miles north of Carlton on the Green Lake Road ; Lac La Biche Mission (R. C), 100 miles from Fort Edmonton; Victoria Mission (Wesleyan Mission), 80 miles east of Edmonton ; and St. Albert Mission (R. C), 9 miles north of Edmonton, and at Edmonton itself. Edmonton seems to be the coldest point in the district in question and suffers most from summer frosts. " Next is a very extensive district forming the watersheds between the Saskatchewan and Peace Rivers, and through which the Athabasca River flows for its whole course, 85 and froiji wliich it receives its waters. This region is all forest and consists of muskeg (swamp), spruce and poplar forests. Very little is known of this region, but the soil where I crossed it is generally good where not swampy. West of Edmonton, where the railway crosses this section, there is said to be much swamp, but between Fort Pitt and the Forks of the Athabasca there is scarcely any swamp, although it is nearly all forest. " Next comes the Peace River section extending along the Rocky Mountains from a little north of Jasper's House to Fort Liard, lat. 61 north ; and from the former point to the west end of Little Slave Lake ; thence to the Forks of the Athabasca, and down that River to Athabasca Lake, and from thence to Fort Liai-d. The upper part of this immense area is principally praii'ie, extending on both sides of the Peace Rivei'. As we proceed to the north and east the prairie griidually changes into a continuous poplar forest with here and there a few spruces, indicating a wetter soil. The geuei'al character of this section is like that of Manitoba west from Portajje La Prairie to Pine Creek. ii " Wheat was raised last year at the Forks of the Athabasca, at the French Mission (Lake Athabasca), at Fort Liard, and at Fort Vermillion in this section." Canmlian Exploinng Expedition, by II. Y. Hind. Vol. 2, p. 234:. " It is a physical reality of the highest importance to the interest of British North America that this continuous belt can be settled and cultivated from a few miles west of the Lake of the Woods to the passes of the Rocky Mountains, and any line of communi- cation, whether by waggon road or railroad, passing through it, will eventually enjoy the great advantage of being fed by an agricultural population from one end to the other. " No other part of the American continent possesses .an approach even to this singularly favorable disposition of soil and climate, which last feature, notwithstanding its rigour during the winter season, confers, on account of its humidity, inestimable value on British America, south of the 54th pa)"allel. . " The natural resources lying within the limits of the fertile belt, or on its eastern borders, are themselves of great value as local elements of future wealth and prosperity ; but in view of a communication across the continent tliey acquire paramount importance. "Timber available for fuel and building purposes ; lignite coal, though not equal to true coal, nevertheless suitable for many of the different objects to wliich truo coal is applied ; iron ore Avidely distributed, of groat purity, and in considerable abundance ; salt, in quantity sufficient for a dense population. All these crude elements of wealth lie within the limits or on the borders of a region of great fertility, and drained by a river of the first-class, navigable by steamer, during several months of the year, for 500 miles of its course, and by batteaux for nearly double that distance." (The Hudson Bay Company's steamer has, since this was written, in 1875 and 1870, navigated successfully about a thousand miles of the North Saskatchewan.) The Eiid River Country, by A. J. RuS'iell, C.E., p. 145. " On our route by the North Saskatchewan and Yellow H(>ad Pass, wc have a con- tinually and pre-eminently fertile country for 1,300 miles from the commencement of the Red River prairies to the base of the Rooky jMountains at Jasper House, and of the remaining 701 miles to the head of Bute Inlet, nearly one-half apparently is cultivable land. Mr. Waddingtou's description of the country between the mouth of the Quesnelle and the coast range agrees with the favourable account of that plateau quoted from Mr. 1, m 86 I Bamston's report in Commander Mayne's work on British Columbia, and the unusual favorable character in that very mountainous country, which he gives of the great region extending northwards to the River Skeena, the boundary of British Columbia, cor- responds with the description given of it intersected, in reports ot extensive explorations referred to in the same work and published in Imperial parliamentary papers. " We see, therefore, that we possess a route to the Pacific through our central pi-airie country and British Columbia, that besides traversing the Eocky Mountains far more favorably, at half the elevation of the lines through the United States, is as remarkable for passing through a gi-eat extent of well watered, fertile country, as they are for the general aridity and uninhabitable barrenness of a great part of the country they traverse. *' The superiority of our route across to the Pacific, over any other on the continent, is still more evident, when we consider that it has in addition to the foregoing the further advantage consisting chiefly of navigable waters. " This advantage is, in its nature, a double one. First, the much lower rate of cost of transport by the navigable waters. * * ''• Secondly, what to us is of great importance, especially in the commencement, that in the navigable waters we have the greater part of the route ready, without cost of construction, except on a very small proportion of it." . Isothermal. ! Fcbcts mid Figures relating to Vancouver's Islaml and British Columbia, by J. Despa/rd Pemberton, Surveyor-General of Vancouver's Island, ?>. 11 7. * ■-'= * " An isothermal line drawn across the continent would, of course, be far from stitiight, but the general obliquity of such a line may be judged of in this way : — If such a line were drawn from New York it would pass through Lake Winnipeg to Fort Simpson ; in other words, if New York were, with respect to latitude, similarly placed on the west coast. Fort Simpson, a thousand miles north of it, would enjoy a tem- perature equally favorable with it." Appendix No. 36, to Journals Legislative Assembly, Canada, 1859. Dawson, C.E. Beport by S. J. " According to the isothermal charts of Lorin Blodget, the lines of equal temperature for the summer should have a north-west direction from Bed River. Now, admitting this theory to be con-ect, the climate of Red Deer River and Swan River, other circum- stances being the same, should be equal to that of Red River Settlement. But I am of opinion that it is superior, inasmuch as these rich valleys, while they are at but a very slight elevation above the valley of Red River, are removed from the influence of the cold winds from Lake Winnipeg, which prejudicially affect the latter in spring. As an instance of the change of climate which is produced by the difference of elevation in this i-egion, I may mention that the vegetation in the middle of June, was much further advanced in the valley of Swan River than at Fort Pelly, which is some distance further to the south, but at a greater altitude by some 400 feet. " While on this subject, I quote from Blodget's climatology some of his remarks on the climate of the North-west teri-itories, which I am confident will be read with interest. * " By reference to the illustration of the distribution of heat we see that the cold at the north 6f the grie&t lakes do* not iiepresent the siame latitude further west, and 87 that beyond them the thermal lines rise as high in latitude, in most cases, as at the west of Europe. Central Russia, the Baltic district, and the British Islands, are all reproduced in the general structure, though the exceptions here fall against the advantage, while there they favor it, through the immediate influence of the Gulf Stream. ' " Climate is indisputably the decisive condition, and when we find the isothermal of 60° for the summer rising on the interior American plains to the (Jlst parallel, or fully as high as its average ix)sition for Europe, it is impossible to doubt the existence of favorable climates over vast areas now unoccupied. ' " This favorable comparison may be ti-aced for the winter also, and in the avenigea for the year. The exceptional cold of the mountain plateaux and of the coast below the 43rd parallel, marks the advantage more or less to those who approach these areas from the western parts of the Central States, and from the coast of California, J)ut though the distinct mountain ranges remain high at the north, the width of their base, or of the plateau from which they rise, is much less than at the 42nd parallel. The elevated tracts are of less extent, and the proportion of cultivable surface is far greater. ' " It will be seen that the thermal lines for each season are thrown northward further on passing Lake Superior westward, in the charts of this work, than in those of the military report prepared by the author. At the time those were drawn the nurebor of the obsei*vation3 beyond the limits of the United States were so small that the full expression was not given to the statistics then used, in the fear that some correction would ultimately be found to apply to them, reducing the extreme northward curvatures they indicated. But a further collection and comparison wan-ants the position now given to the thermal lines, placing them further northward than before, and extending them in a course due north-west from Lake Superior to the 58th parallel. For the extreme seasons, winter and summer, this accurate diagonal extension of the thermal lines across the areas of latitude and longitude is very striking. The buffalo winter in the upper Athabasca, at least as safely as in the latitude of St. Paul's, Minnesota ; und the spring opens at nearly the same tims alouj the immense line of ijlains from St. Pauls ten air were fully ripe ; Windsor pole beans and peas were likewise ripe, August 15th. Fort Chipweyan, at tlie entrance to Lake Athabasca, has very jKtor soil in its vicinity, being largely composed of sand ; still, here I obtained tine samples of wheat and barley — the former weighing GH lbs. to the bushel, and the latter bH lbs. The land here is very low and swampy, being but little elevated above the lake. At the French Mission, two miles above the »Fort, oats, wheat and l)arley were all cut by tho 26th August. Crop rather light on the ground. Hi " Q. What time does the season open so that spring ploughing and seeding can bo carrietl on ] " A. About the 20th of April ploughing can commence on Peace River, and from data in my possession the same may be said of tho Saskatchewan regions geneniliy. " It is a curious fact that spring seems to advance from noi-th-west to south-east, at a rate of about 250 miles per day, and that in tho fall winter begins in Manitol)a first and ffOGS westwai-d at the same rate. r- is lO g n " Q. Have you any knowledge of the temperature and how the thernioineter ranges during the year 1 " A. The following data selected from various sources will throw consideral>le lighten this question. It is worthy of note that Halifax, on the sea coast, is nearly as cold in spring and summer as points more than twelve degi-ees further north. " Spring, summer and autumn temperature at various points, to which is added the mean temperature of July and August, the two Hpenimj months. Latitude Summer. Spring. Autumn. July north. and August. "Cumberland House 53-37 62-62 .■53-04 • 32-70 64-25 " Fort Simpson 61-51 51) -48 26-66 27-34 62-31 "Fort Chipweyan 58-42 58-70 22-76 31-89 60-60 " Fort William 48-24 59-!)4 39-67 37-80 60-52 " Montreal • 45-31 67-26 39-03 45-18 68-47 "Toronto 43-40 6443 42-34 46-81 66-51 " Temiscamingue . . ■ 47-19 65-23 37-58 40-07 66-43 " Halifax 44-39 61-00 ..;-67 46-67 6655 " Belleville 44-10 temperature nearly that of Toi-onto. " Dunvegan, Peace River. . . . 56-08 average summer six months. ••Edmonton 53-31 .... 3970 "Carleton 52-52 3.V70 " Winnipeg 49-52 64-76 30-13 35-29 65-32 " Any unprejudiced person making a careful examination of the above figures will Ije struck with the high temperature obtained in the interior. Edmonton has a higher spring temperature than Montreal, and is eight degrees farther north and over 2,000 feet ■■■■■miiiiiit 40 above tlie sea. The temperatures of Carleton and Edmonton are taken from Captain Palliser's explorations in the Saskatcliewan country, during the years 1857 and 1858. It will he seen that the temperatures of the months when grain ripens is about nearly equal tiiruughout the whole Dominion from Montreal to Fort Simpson north of Great Slave Lake. " Q. Do you consider the country adapted for stock raising, and how many months in the year is it necessary to keep stock under shelter 1 " A. The country, in my opinion, is well suited for stock-raising throughout its whole extent. The winters are certainly cold but the climate is dry, and the winter snows are light, Ijotli as to depth and weight. All kinds of animals have thicker coats in cold climates tlian in warm ones, so that the thicker coat counter-balances the greater cold. Dry snow never injures cattle in Ontario — no other kind ever falls in Manitoba or the North-West, so that there can be no trouble from this cause. Cattle winter just as well on the Athabasca and Peace Rivers as they do in Manitoba ; and Mr. Grant, who has been living on Kat Creek, Manitoba, for a number of years, says that cattle give less trouble there than they do in Nova Scotia. Horses winter out without feed other than what they pick up, from Peace River to Manitoba. Sheep, cattle, and horses will require loss attention and not require to be fed as long as we now feed them in Ontario. Owing to the light rain fall the uncut grass is almost as good as hay when the winter sets in, which it does without the heavy rains of the east. This grass remains good all winter as the dry snow does not rot it. In the spring the snow leaves it almost as good as ever, so that cattle can eat it until the young grass apjiears. From live to six months is about the time cattle will require to be fed, and shelter will altogether depend on the farmer." Ibid. Mr. Henry IIcLeod's Evuhmce, }>, 41. " Q, What parts of the country have you travelled over in the Northwest, and have you made particular ol)servations of the soil I ^' A. I have travelled over the country, from TjO miles east of Rat Portage, Lake of the Woods, to the summit of the Rocky Mountains, about 1,250 miles, and have made daily records of the quality of the soil travelled over. Taking the coinitry from Winnipeg to l''ort Polly by the usual ti-ail, and from Fort Polly to Lac Ste. Anne, 50 miles west of Kdinonton, along the line of the Pacitic Railway, I estimate that the proportion of soil suitable for settlement is 4.'5 per cent., moderately fair soil 15 per cent., and poor sandy, day and gravel, 12 per cent. The laud L consider suitable for settlement is very much suporior to any lands now to be had in (.)ntario ; the luxuriance of the grass and pea vine to the south and east of Etlmonton, exceeds anything I ever saw. The soil consists of licli black loam of various depths, overlying clay and gravel. I have boon told by settlers from Ontario, that they prefer tlie natural grasses for hay to the host timotiiy ; thoy say that stock thri\es better upon the natural hay. My horses lived entirely upon the grass found every day, from tlio end of May to the middle of October, and did their daily work of fiom 15 to .'50 miles. Jiei'uro and after those dates they got a few pounds of oats or barley — -only thrive liorses were lost, and that on the return trip from the Rocky iMountains, The clay i'ud sandy soil is suitable for grazing; I saw no jiart of the country entirely doliciiuit of pasture. " Q. Do you consider the climate healthy and invigorating ; or is it subject to fever and epidemics ( 41 "A. I consider the climate of the North-west TeiTitories to be most healthy anil far superior to many parts of Ontario and Quebec. Although very cold in winter, there ai'O no sudden changes — there is seldom a thiiw from autumn till spring. The sumnvor is very enjoyable, and the air on the plains very fine. Tliere were some cases of fever in Winnipeg, but there is no doubt that they Avere caused by want of drainage, through the compact underlying clay, and from want of proper sanitary regulations." " The Canadian Dominion,^' by Charles Marshall, p. 17G. "To assist distinctness of ai)prehension, the old Hudson's Bay and North-west Territories may Ix; divided into three great sections : — Firat, the barren, frost-bouml, polar north. Hecond, eastward of Red River, a wide region of lakes, swamps, disjoiiit(^d streams, dense woods, and wildernesses of rock full of ore, extending beyond [jake Superior. Third, the fertile region of plains extending west of Red River for 1,00U miles to the l)ase of the Rocky Mountains ; the country destined to be the granaiy of the Dominion. "The countiy contained in this last division is of vast extent. From its eastern lionndary, tlie Lake of the Woods, to the sources of the Saskatchewan in the west, it stretches 880 miles. Its breadtli, reckon(M.l from the British boundary line, is TOO mih\s. It includes an area of 480,000 scpiare miles, an extent of country eipiul to that of (Jreat Britain, France and Prussia united. The greater proijortion of tli(^ land appears to Ik* well fitted for cultivation ; many great districts possessing a richness of soil unpai-allcled. " The soil is a fine alluvial d((]»osit, or fre(juently a black vegetable compost. Roots, vegetables, melons, and certain fruits, grow with an extraordinary hixuriance. (!oonlf' ('(mtiniiiis, Canada, 1875. Mr. Malcom McLeod's Evideiirc, (ip. 48-l!>. " Assuming it to be unnen'ssary to make any specific statement as to the climate of the Hudson Bay Pasin — no part of which, to any extent large enough for settlement, can 1)0 well considered as fit for agricultural purposes — I shall merely say, tluit though si.'vere C ^ii 42 it is not unhealthy, and is quite endurable by persons engaged in the Hudson Bay Com- pany's service — no worse, in fact, than that of Canada, east of the meridian of Quebec. " The Winnipeg Basin, even at Norway House, at its noith end, and of life at which I have distinct recollection, is on the whole not more severe than that of Lower Cannda between Montreal and Quebec. " In the Saskatchewan Valley — say the Nortlj Saskatchewan — at Fort Carlton 1 know that my grandfather (maternal grandfather). Chief Factor Pruden, who built Fort Carlton, and for many years held charge of that district, raised easily all ordinary kinds of garden vegetables raised in old Canada, and all cereals, and, (with some difficulty, liow- ever, owing to occasional summer frost) even Indian corn. " As to wheat, it has for many ycais past — about fifty, as T see by letters to my fixther from an uncle of mine (Chief Trader Harriot), who first took it there, and according to subsequent reports — been constantly raised, even at Lake Ann, beyond Edmonton, where there is a considerable settlement of old retired servants of the Company. On the Athabasca, further north, at Ked Deer Lake, where there is an old and considerable settlement, it has never failed, and the climate and locality are most favorable for it. " Still further nortli, on the Peace River, tlu'oe hundred miles nearer the Nortli Pole, it is raised, and Professor Macoun has just brought us a specimen of it, ' 08 lbs to the bushel,' which is one pound and three-quarters more than the wheat (fi'om our own County of Pontiac) which took the second prize for wheat at the World's Exhibition at Paris in 18G7. The fiict tells its own tale as to climate in those higher latitudes of ours. " We have moreover an exact and reliable record, in careful and thermometrical registiy, at a central point, viz., Dunvegan, of the climate of the Peace I{iver region, one kc[)t by my old friend and client when I practiced at the Bar in Montreal, David Thorn j)- son, astronomer of the old North-West Company, and to whom the mapi)ing of those far northern lands from Hudson Bay to the I'acitic is mainly due. "THE THOMPSON llEUISTER — DUNVKUAN, PEACE HIVER." Latitude 50' 8' N. Longituck 117° 13' \V. Month. '— Fahr. Month. " '-Fuhr. "April Ti-'o November U-(5 " May 51 December — 4 J anuary -\-l February ^-2 "June C4-5 "July 03 " August 00 " September 55 "October 40 March 22- "Mean 54-87 " Mean of 3 summer mouths O'J-50 Mean of winter 8-42 Mean of the 5'^ear 35*5 1 "As to the ])eriod of cultivation (from April to October) it is a fact wortli noting that Dunvegan, Toronto and Qui'bec do not vary more than half a degree in mean tem- ])erature, and tliat as to Halifax, the diiienMict* is only 1" G'J' — not far from two degrees in iavor of Dunvegan. As to the winter cold of Dunvegan, its steadiness and dryness are, for botli man and beast, better tlian that of any otiiei' place in the Dominion. I never saw any jierson from that region but who was improvt^d and stn'ugtliened in health and body, and I may say mind, by the life; a region of essentially .strong lif(!. 48 "As to the climate of British Cohimbia, it is to be observed that on the whole, it is moister and warmer than that on the ea ,tern side of the Rocky Mountains in the same latitudes, but local causes, viz., the special physical features of the country, with its al- ternate of rugfjed mountain range, and comparative level, vary it much. In its southern half, the altitude of the cascade or coast i-ango seems to wall off from tlui interior the vapours of ocean waters, which waters never vary beyond 50" to 52" fahr. tlie whole year througli, while on the northern half of it, or at least between latitudes 53" and 56", there is a freer play of ocean vapour, with its ever-fertilizing influence over the whole breadth of the coimtry to the Itocky Mountains, and even beyond, through the Peace River Pass and other passages in the lowered range in those latitudes. " Between latitudes 53" and 56", exclusive of mountain heights, it may be called mildly Canadian, and with a greater force of vegetable gvowtli." Snow Fall. Assiniboiiie mid Saskatchewan, Exjilorinij E.i'pr(Utiu)i, by II, Y. IlimJ. Vol. /, /). 16. * '■'•'■ * " Snow falls on the Touchwood Hills to the depth of two feet and a-half in the woods, and in the pnvii ie where aspen groves are numerous, it is not unfre- quently found one foot and r. -half deep. In the great treeless prairies to the south whei-e the berbasro is short, the snow i,-i drifted off by winds. The climate of the Touchwood Hi'' is :■> < '. dently very humid. Thunder storms appear to travel in the direction of this rany. im'-: occasion a copious precipitation as tliey pass over it." Ri'liort of Select Committee on I mmhjralion a'}}d Colmiization, 1876. Profcmior Macoxii's Evidence, Houfe of Conimmis, Canada. " Q. From your knowledge of the country between Manitoba and the Rocky Moun- tains, by Peace River— as to the winter and the snow fall, — can railroads be operated as well as in the Province of Ontario 1 " A. T lielieve that tlie snow diflicidty will never be so groat as in Ontario, because the snow fall is more than one-lialf less throughout tlio wholo region, and tlin evaporation of the snow caused by tlu! increased dryness of the air more than compensates for tlic occasional thaws in Ontario." Ibid. Hon. Mr. Sutherland's Evidohce, p. 30. "Wo have occasional frosts; goner;illy one frost about the first of .Tunc, but seldom Hovere enough to ilo any material 'njury to the growin,;.; crops, and showers ar(! freipicnt during spring and summer. The avenigo dcipth of snow throughout Manitolia is al)Oiit liO inches, and is quite liglit and loose." liolilNd ( »l'r.Ii.\TIO.,-9. Geoluylcal Survey, 1874-5, p. 3. Sumniari/ Ileport by Mr. Sdwyn. * * * "Tho locnliti( s where these operations were carricil out arc at Rat Creek, (1) and in the vicinity of Fort Fillice, on the Assiniboinc;, and on Swan River near Fort Pell}'. ■* " So far as they have gone, they lead to the conclusion that 'i '; r (I) Rat ("iTok is Cf) milofi wost of Vnrt (\nrry, rm the firnt or lowest prauie stop. mm m no difficulty will bo found in obtaining a good supply of water on any part of tlic western plains at a modei-ate depth below the surface. A sufficient depth has not been reached either at Fort Ellice or at Fort Pelly to prove the coal bearing strata. At Rat Creek, howevei-, the superficial deposits were jienetrated at 88 feet, and the underlying rock bored througli to a depth of 122 feet. * •' Tlxe cream-colored limestone shown in this section is certainly of Devonian or Silurian age. * * * The dark grey fine-gramed rock beneath the limestone is unlike any rock that has, so far as I am aware, been observed cropping out in tliis re- gion. * '■'■' In any case, tlie finding of these rocks at llat Creek, together with other ascertained facts in connection with the distribution of the different forma- tions, prove that neither coal nor lignite beds are at all likely to occur beneath any poi'- tion of the level country which constitutes the first prairie steppe,' The Desert Lands. Report of the Select Committee on Immigration and Colonization, House of Commons, Canada, 187G. Projessor Macoun's Evidence, p. 2G. " Q, Could, in youi* opinion, the arid jiortion of the Central Prairie region, and par- ticularly that jiart supposed to be an extension of the ' American Desert,' be utilized for sheep grazing or any other agricultural purpose ? " A. Ijaramio Plains, in Wyoming Territory, are spoken of by all American writers as cmijiently fitted for slieep nnd cattle farming, and our extension of the 'Desert' has, from all accounts, a better climate — is at least 4,000 feet lower in altitude, and from the able Keports of IMr. CJeorge Dawson (1874) and Captain Palliser (1858), 1 am led to in- fer that our ])art of the 'Desert,' besides being first-class ])aKture land, contains many depressions well suited for raising all kinds of grain. Mr. Dawson specially remarks that its soil is generally good, but that the rain fall is light. Speaking of the worst jtart, lie says, ' It scarcely supports a sod,' but this tract is not fifty miles wide. This is the winter home of the l)uli'alo, and hence cattle and sheep can live on it in the winter with- out difficulty, I have seen tlie Laramie Plains and the cattle upon them — I have exami- ju'd the Uora of both r(>gions, and believe ours is warmer in winter and ccrtaiidy not so dry in siuiuner. "Mr. Cuiorge Davson, speaking of this region, says: — 'In .July of la,st sumiiicr, (187.3), 1 saw a band of cattle in the vicinity of the liine, south of Wood Mountain, which had stniyed from one of the lTnitc. "It is impossible to examine a correct map of the Xortli American Continent with- out being impressed with the rc^markable intluence which the (Ireat American Desert must exercise upon the future of the United States and Ilritish North America. ■■' '• The important fact has been noticed tliat any railroad eonsti-ucted withiu the limits of the United States must jjass, for a distance of i,2U0 miles we.st of the Mississippi, through iincultivable land, or, in other words, a comparative desert. Along the .'i'Jnd parallel this desert is least, and the detached areas of fertile soil greatest in quantity, but tl»e aggregate number of square miles of cultivable lands amounts only to 2,500 in a dis- tance of 1,210 miles. The northern limit of the Great American Desert is an imaginary line drawn from the Touchwood Hills to the Moose Woods on the South Krancli, then south of Battle River, as far as long. 112", when turning south it sv/eops along the flanks of the Ilocky Mountain in long. 11.5'. North of this limit of the Great American Desert there is a broad strip of fertile country, ricli in water, woods and pasturage, drained by the North Saskatchewan and nome of its afUuents, and being a continuation of tlie fertile prairies of Red River, the eastern watershed of the Assiuiboine and Red Deer River, with the outlying patches called the Touchwood Hills, File Hills, itc." Ueport of the Geology and Resovrces of the region in the vicinit// of the 4!)]t tf) tlie north must form tlh- liasis fur the si^ttli'mcnt and utili/atii)n of the western plains. The cactus-covered dcsci't tract di)i>s not seem to stretch fav to the north of the line ; but there is an extensive regim of tlie third ]irairi(> .ste|ipr soiitli of the fertile belt which is dcsci'ibed as having a ]»oor soil, with si-anty herbage, and no wood, exce])t on northern e\|iosun'S." Watkii ^ri'i'i.v. n>id, p. 2M. * ■■'■ ''■ " The (piestion of wat( r supply seemed some years ago a diiriculfc one in the Red River Valley. Great areas of level and fertil(> prairie, lie far from any stream, or are only travei-sed by ctndees, wliicii dry up conqilctely iluring summer. Tho structure of the <'ountry renthur. the existence oC surface springs .ilmost an inqtossibility. This appan.'ut ditlieulty is, however, lteii\g solved in the most satisfaclory mannei ; as it is IP* 4G found that there are few regions where ordinary wells of moderate depth do not succeed in finding ample supplies of water ; and this not only far removed from the rivei*s, but in their immediate vicinity, though the water level of the stream may be considerably lower than that of the bottom of tlio well." j?7«e JVorlh-Went Passage hj Land, hj Viscount Milton and Dr. Cheadlc, p. 41. " From Eed River to the Rocky Mountains, along the banks of the Assiniboine and the fertile belt of the Saskatchewan, at least 00,000,000 of acres of the richest soil lie ready for tlve farmer when he shall be allowed to enter in and possess it." Iuon-Stoxes. Gcoloy'iad ,Sn.rvei/ of Canada, 1874-5. Repwt l»j Mr. J. If. Spenser, p. 68. * * * " The minerals of economic value which came under my notice consist of clay, ii'on-stones, lignite, peat and salt. In many places along Swan River and in tiie Porcupine Mountains, clay iron-stones are abundant. They are of concretionary character, containing a considerable (piantity of calcareous matter and belong to the limonite group of iron-stones." Peat. Ibid, }>. 69. '■' '■' '•' " A few miles below the Crossing on Swan River, two beds of peat are exposed in tlu; ]>aidv, the thickest of which measure 18 inches. Above it is afoot of clay, and then 1) inches more of peat, the latter being buried by a few feet of surface soil. " Salt. Ibid, p. 69. *' Salt was formerly made from the brine springs near the mouth of ]jell River. The salt springs at the south end of liake Winnipegoosis have V)een worked for a long time. At these springs the saline waters percolate through the drift, which in this region covers but thinly the Devonian limestones and destroys vegetation for some distance around." 47 CHAPTER IV. FROM THE SOUTH SASKATCHEWAN CROSSING TO T H E R O C K Y U O U N T A 1 N S. lieport of Progress, Canadian Pacific Fiallway, 1874, p. 38, "The crossing of the Soutli Siiskiitchcwan is al)Out '!')() yards wide, tlio hanks are ahout 170 feet high ; the eastern bank, however, has the greater elevation ; aspens, bal- sams, j)oplars, and small white bii-ch are found on its banks ; the valley of the rivei", however, extends over a mile in widtli. The North Saskatchewan is 18 miles distant, and it is here that Fort Carlton is established. Retween the two rivers, the country as- sumes the ajipearance of a level plateau elevated about .300 feet above the streams. The soil, although light, is of good character ; the north river at this j)oint is somewhat broader than the south branch. The streams nnite near the 10.")th degree of longitiide and discharge into Lake Wimiipeg. Only one rapid of any groat importance is met in this distance. Both these sti'eams seem to form natural arteries of communication through the country where they have their course. " The country on the North Saskatchewan is but little wooded, but it abounds in gi'asses, and the soil appears to be good, in some ])laces somewhat sandy and arid. 'I'lie contour of the land is irregular, with hills of considerable elevation, at the basct of which lakes are frequently to be met, generally not of extended area. " From Fort Pitt contimiing along the North Saskatchewan, the soil improves, and we met white spruce, tamarac, and pojilars, with thick and luxuriant grasses. Fires had passed over much of the country. As we came within a hundred miles of Edmonton, the country became more hilly, and the hillsides were covered with heavy Avood. The flora continued the same as on the eastern prairies, but it was here somewhat more lux- uriant; a good deal of low birch and scrub pine, pinns hanksiana, is met in this locality. At Edmonton the (jucst^on of coal first presents itself; some fragments wt i dug out of the river bank. Although they l)urned in a blacksmith's forge, evidentl\ they were of an inferior (puility; better sam]iles were I'cported by the officers of the Hudson's Ray Fo,vt, as having been found higher up the river. "All the rivers we crossed between Prairie Portage and Edmonton are marked by the characteristic of running in wide and dcei) \ alleys; this peculiai-ity woidd appear to extend generally to the prairie region of the north-west, except, jterhaps, th<^ lower poi-- tions of it around Lake Winnipeg. However small t\w. stream which runs through them, the valleys have the same characteristics. The circumstance suggests no special engineering difficulty, but it points to heavy expen.se in construction where rivers are to be crossed, and the nece.s.sity of care and judgment in laying down the roufe, so as to keej) the expense within as moderate; limits as possible. " Looking bai^k over the thousand miles of ])rairie country travelled since lenving tlie wooded district east of Manitoba, it is woi'thy of note, that absolutely level jd.MiMs formed no great ]>j-oportion of the vast area which canu! under our obserx j,tion. We were agreealtly sui-prised to find that by far the larger proportion was undulatinu and in 48 this respect not unlike nmch of tlie Province of Ontai'io, while eminences of considerable elevation, not greatly inferior to the mountain at Montreal, were occasionally met with. In niany places small groves and fringes of trees adorned the prairie and gave the land- scape an agreeable and park-like aj)])earance. "Before reaching Edmonton we received from gentlemen connected with the Hudson Bay Company and from others engaged in missionary labors, most favorable accounts of the country on I'eace River to the north, and still more glowing descriptions of the beauty of the landscape and fertility of the soil over broad districts stretching away to the south toAvards the internsitional boundary line. "A few weeks after avo left Edmonton, Col. Robertson Ross travelled southerly through the section referred to. He reported the country for about 300 miles in length along the eastern base of the Rocky Mountains, towards the 49th parallel, and from GO to SO miles in breadth, to bo of great natural beauty, with soil of surpassing richness. Here is found the favorite wintering grounds for gi-eat herds of buffalo. "On leaving Edn\onton we passed through a country inter.spersed with hillocks, and we likewise occasionally met with swamps, many of wliich were covered with swamp liay. ({radually the country becomes more wooded, and the undulations assume a more markfid character. IVIore creeks were crossed, running in most cases through narrow valleys. The vegetation was ])articularly luxuriant, and the grass through which we passed was in some places from live to six feet high. " In crossing the Pembina River some 70 miles west of the River Saskatchewan, wo found thick outcroj)ping beds of coal. It proved much l)ettcr than the Edmonton speci- men, and we heard from our guides that abundance of this fuel was ju'esent at other localities, some of it of still better quality. " Occasionally the country becomes more open with groves of spruce, aspen, and ])oplar, increasing in size. Nevertheless much of it is densely wooded, while in other places the timber is thin and of inferior (piality. " The ascent up the McLcod River was continxied for 70 miles. There was no reg- \dar trail, and the route of the party was through innumerable Avindfalls. Mu(,'h of the soil is bog, and the banks of the river are rough and rugged. Pushing across the intc^r- mediate summit the Athabasca River was reached. This streAm runs through dill's of sandstone, shale and clay, and the valley widens by a succession of terraces, rising one above the other. They are very distinctly maiked on both sides of the stream. =•= ■•■= * The ground alternated in its character. The trail gradually approaches the river and passes uj) the valley, which is hei'e about live miles Avide. Following the Avindings of the river, Ave reached tliQ portals of Jasjjcr Valley, entering Avhich Ave were literally in the heart of the; mountains. iSo easy an ingress could uoAX'r even have been hoped for. " Jasjter House is but 3,300 feiit above the sea. After leaving the RiA'er Athabasca the ])ath of the expiulition lay along the River Miotte. The name of Caledonia Valley has been given to this locality (at the junetion of the ISIiette Avith the Athabasca). It is rocky and rough, and the river itself is a series of falls and rapids. The lower ground of the valley is swampy, Avith an uiulerbrush of scrub and of dwarf Avillows. The trail crosses the liver seven or eight times in a veiy short distance. " The immediate ascent to Yellow Head Pass is not diliicult, and the Pass itself is, as it Avere, an open meadow." 49 Report of Proyr ess, Canadian Pacific Ruilway, 1874. Professor Maooun's Report, p. G5. "Tho distance from the Soutli Brancli to Carlton on the North Branch is about 18 miles. For the firat few miles after leaving the river the soil is sandy and of poor qual- ity ; but for the remaining distance it is excellent. Many lakes are scattered at intervals over the plain, and these together with aspens and willows, give the country a very picturesque look. ■■'■ '■'• * " Between Thick wood Hills and Jackfish Lake the country is partly plain and partly rough and hilly, but the greater part is well fitted for cultivation. The hills and ridges are either gravel or sand, but always covered with verdure. For 33 miles after passing Jackfish Lake, the country is beautiful and the soil excellent, being a light brown sandy loam. From English River to Fort Pitt the surface of the country is much lu'oken, and ranges of hills with corresponding valleys are commoH. |'" * Between Fort Pitt and Victoria, the land changes every few miles, and is much broken by hill and valley. Many tracts have excellent soil, and would bring immense crops of ail kinds if not injured by summer frosts. * * The laud around Victoria is very rich, and would i)roduce enormous crops. " Between Victoria and Edmonton, a distance of 80 miles, the soil is very rich but there is much wet swampy land, the greater part, however, seems to be exceedingly fertile and well suited for agriculture. All around Edmonton, the land is of the very best quality, though the soil in s^ime localities is scarcely as heavy as could be wished. All kinds of graui, roots and vegetables are raised in abundance here. The country around Edmonton is much superior to that in the vicinity of Fort Garry, as there are no marsh or salt lands, and plenty of timber and excellent water." TJiP. Red River Cowidry, Hudson Bay and the Norlh-West Teiritories, hy A. J. Russell, C.E., p.Ql. " The country drained by the North Branch of the Saskatchewan, and its extensive tributary the Battle Rivei', though incomparably more valuable than the country trav- ersed by the South Branch, does not require to be described so much at length owing to its more uniform character. " The North Branch for the greater part of its coui-se, and the Battle River, lie in the great belt of country which the Canadian and Imperial exploring parties describe as generally fertile land of the first cpiality. " The North Branch, for 520 miles up, from the Forks, and the Battle River, for its whole course of 450 miles (excejiting a short elbow of it,) traverse a rich prairie country more or less interspersed with woods. " The remaining 282 miles of the ui)per coarse of the North Branch lie in the Thickwood country, which, to the commencement of the mountains, about 200 miles, is rei)resentod as abounding in marshes with patches of fine land in parts. In this distance the banks of tlic river display beds of lignite coal. Beyond it the remaining course of the river lies in the valleys of the mountains, to the glaciers at its source. " The Battle River enters the North Brancli about 170 miles above the main Forks. It drains a Lirgo part of the country between the North and South branches. It has its source about ten niUos from the North Branch, 30 miles above Edmonton, but they are 130 miles apart at the miildlo of its course, and between them the pasturage is described as very rich. Coal presents itself there in the banks of the .stream, 250 miles from its mouth. 50 " The rich prairie country, which covers the course of the Battle River and the northerly part of Red Deer River, and includes the North Branch from the Forks, \ip to 30 miles above Edmonton, has a breadth of about 100 miles. At the Forks, 70 miles at the mouth of Battle River, 150 miles at its middle course, and about 70 at its source ; beyond which the belt of fertile prairie countiy becomes gradually narrower, and turning to the southward, up the coui*se of the Red Deer River, becomes merged in the fertile region on the skirt of the mountains below Bow Fort on the South Branch. It is bounded on the north by the line of the Thick Woods, which sweeps northerly parallel to the course of the North Branch at a distance of 40 to 20 miles beyond it, then curving to the southward crosses it about 30 miles above Edmonton, and continuing in tliat direction strikes the mountains near Bow Fort, making a circuit from the Forks of about 700 miles. " This circuit of the Thick Woods is the present boundary of the 2>rogress of succes- sive fires which are gradually encroaching on the forests, or partly wooded country, and converting it into treeless prairie, unless where clumps of young aspens and poplar, growing up, escape the ravages of succeeding fires." Captain Palliser'a Exploration in B. N. Amei'ica, /olio, pp. 10-11. "The North Saskatchewan has its source from glaciers in the Rocky Mountains in latitude 52° N. and longitude 117|° W., and from the same ice filled valleys also rise branches of the South Saskatchewan and the Columbia. At first the North Saskatch- ewan has a north-easterly course until it reaches the Snake Portage in latitude 5-l° and longitude 111°, half way between Fort Edmonton and Fort Pitt. It then changes to a south-east direction, which it pursues until it reaches 52° 20' at its 'Elbow,' when it changes its course again with a sudden bend, and flo ;vs to the north-east. " From the Rocky Mountain House to Fort a la Corne, the North Saskatchewan traverses the plains in a valley that varies in depth from 100 to 300 feet, and never exceeds two miles in width. The alluvial fiats, which form the finest quality of land in this part of the country, are often well timbered, biit from the manner in which the river winds from side to side of the valley, the points,' as they are termed, are seldom more than two or three miles in extent. "By inspecting the map it will be obsei'ved that the general course of the river Is bounded by hills which sometimes recede to a considerable distance. These hills rise two to four hundred feet above the general level, and skirting along their base there is often to be found areas of land of fine quality, while the whole distance, sometimes equal to 30 miles between the hills and the river, is fine grazing land, and as it all lies within the limit of the partially wooded belt of country, there are 'blufls' that Avill afford shelter to stock. "Ihe richness of the natural pasture in many j)laces on the prairies of the second level along the North Saskatchewan, and its tributary. Battle River, can hardly be ex- aggerated. Its value does not consist in its being rank or in great quantity, but from its fine quality, comprising nutritious species of grasses and carices, along with natural vetches in great variety, which remain throughout the winter sound, juicy, and fit for the nourishment of stock. "Almost everywhere along the course of the North Saskatchewan are to bo found eligible situations for agricultural settlement, a sufficiency of good soil is eveiywhcre to be fo\ind, nor are these advantages confined to the neighboihood of the river ; in several districts, such as N, W., of Carlton, we traversed fine land fit for all purposes, both of 01 jiiisture and tilliif,'o, extciulinf^ towards the Thickwood llills, and also to bo found in tLo region of the lakes between Forts Titt and Edmonton. "In almost every direction round Edmonton the land is fine, excepting only the hilly country at the highefr levels such as the Beaver llills. Even there, however, there is nothing like sterility, only the surfiicc is too much broken to be occupied while more level country can be obtained. * * * "In the upper part of the Saskatchcnvan country coal of foir ijuality occura abund- antly, and may hereafter be found very useful ; it is quite fit to bo employed in the smelting of iron from the ores of that met^il, which also occurs in large quantities in the same strata. Building stone is wholly absent till quite close to the Rocky Mountains, but brick eai-th and potter's clay may be obtained in many parts of the country. The climate is more iiTegular than that of Red River. The winter is much the same in its duration, but the amount of snow that falls decreases rapidly as we approach the mountains. "The North Saskatchewan freezes generally about the 12th November, and breaks up from the 17th to the 20th of April. During the winter season of five months the moans of travelling and trausjiort are greatly facilitated by tiie snow, tlie ordinary depth of which is suilicieut for the uhk of sli.'iglis, without at the same time being too great to imi)edo horses. " Between Carlton and Ediuoiiton i]un\'- is no valualjle timbor to be fjund south of the river, the only trees gi-owing there being small aspen pojjlars- To the north, however, and along the river above and btilow these points, the s))ruce, fir, pine and birch occur abundantly. There is neither oak, ash, elm, maple, or any of tho hardwood trees that are found at Red River in any part of the Saskatchewan. Only a few trees of the false sugar mtiple, from which the Indians make a coarse kind of sugar, being found in certain places." The Great Lone Lawl, bj Capt. F. W. Butler, F.R.G.S., Chai>t'ir XV.,;,. 2150. " Tsvo things strike the new comer at Carlton. First, ho sees evidences on every sMe of a rich and fertUe country; and, secondly, he sees by many signs that war is the normal condition of the wild men who havi; pitched their tents in the land of the Sas- katchewan. '■'•'■ * Its boundaries are of tho simplest description. It has on the north a huge forest, on tho west a huge mountain, an the south an immense desert, and on the east an immense marsh. From the forest to tho desert there lies a distancts varying from -40 to loO miles, and from the mnrsli to the mountain, SOO miles of land lie spread in every varying phase of undulating fertility. This is tho Fertile Belt, the land of the Saskatchewan, the winter home of the buHalo, the war country of the Crees and Blackfect, the future home of millions yet unl)0iii." Coal and Liuxite Deposits. Geological Survey, 1873-i. Observations by Mr. Sehcya, p. 33. "The road travelled through the Thickwood ILills is very rough and stoney, boulders having beconui numerous, while from tho base of these hills to Carlton very few ai'O seen. As the name implies the country is fom|)aratively well wooded, and grass is everywhere abundant. * * There is but little change to note in the general aspect of the country. * * * The ridges and hills are couqwsed of sand and gravel; the soil is generally light and poor, grassy margined lakes and pools, many of them salt, ^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I >s Ki III 2.2 1.25 i 1.4 1.8 Photographic Sciences (Corporation 33 WIST MA A STRUT WIBSTIR.N.Y. 14SS0 (716) •73-4503 \ iV •N? N> A. 6^ 6^ 58 abound, and the surface is very irregular and broken, presenting a succession of saucer- shaped depressions with intervening low marmaloid hills and rounded ridges of drift, with grassy or occasionally partially wooded slopes, and on the surface scattered blocks and boulders of gneiss and buff-colored, fossiliferous limestones. * * * At Jackfish Lake the soil for many miles is of the finest quality ; a rich black loam on a blueish-gray clay. The surface is thrown into large hillocks by the moles, and gophera, or marmots. From Jackfish jftiver westward, the country is tolerably level and thickly dotted with patches of copsewood." Ibid. p. 38. ♦ * # " Examined the left bank of the river (North Saskatchewan) for a mile and a half below Fort Edmonton. Found two thin seams of coal with a black earthy shale and layers of gray clay-shalc between them, the former made up of indistinct plant remains looking like grass and sedgi«<. Immediately above the coal seam is a layer of brown greasy clay six or eight inches thick. This clay works into a lather-like soap, and Dr. Hector says it was used by th(^ woi.ien at the Fort for washing blankets. A sample of it, analysed by Dr. Hoffman in the Survey Laboratory, shows it to be a hydrous silicate of alumina. ♦ * * The strata are generally horizontal, though occasionally presenting a slight dip, thi-ee cr four degrees, to S. 29° E. A nodular clay iron or« occurs in layers associated with shales. * * * Striking nearly due south in about 12 miles we came to the crossing of White Mud Creek, a small stream which empties into the Saskatchewan about 2^ miles above Edmonton. The trail we are now following is much better than that between Victoria and Edmonton. The general character of the country unchanged. A rich black soil ; numerous swampy lakes, open richly grassed prairies with belts and patches of copsewood with spnice and lK)plar trees. =;= ♦ * " We i-eached Battle River, crossed it. Battle River is hero quite a shallow stream, 20 yards wide, with stoney bed and gravelly banks about ten to fifteen feet high. From this point to its junction with the North Saskatchewan below Fort Pitt, its general course is nearly east through five and a half degrees of longitude, and for a great part of the distance, according to Dr. Hector, it inins in a valley from 150 to 270 feet l)elow the plain. No change in the character of the country, u drift-covered surface the prevailing feature." Oeoloffical SurKey, 1873-4. Ohscrvationn by Mr. Srlvyn, F, li.G.S., p. 49. " From the Mountain House to Edmonton, and thence to a slioi-t distance below Victoria, there are fair exposui-es of the strata at comparatively short intervals along the river ; soft friable green, gray and brown concretionary sandstones, alternating with blue and gray aronacious and argillacious shales, with layers and beds of lignite, and bright jet-like bi*own conl, are the prevailing features in their exi)osurcs. In the shales thero pre layers of noosures and indications aeen in the cliff sections represent only more or less lenticular shaped and isolated patches, repeated at different horizons and over large areas. Dr. Hector appeara to incline to the latter idea, and, in a note referring to the seams at Rocky Mountain House, he states : 'The coal beds are not continuous for long distances.' Whether this is actually tho^aso or not, there can be no question that in the region west of Edmonton, bounded on the north by Athabasca River ami on the south by the Red Deer River, there exists a vast coal field covering an area of not less than 25,000 square '.niles, find beneath a large portion of this area we may exiJcct to find workable seams of coal at depths seldom exceeding 300 feet, and often, as in the case of the thick scams above described, very favorably situated for woiking by levels from the surface. "Below Victoria the river valley widens considerably, and oftrved, any plant remains. Whether these marine Cretaceous beds are above or IkjIow tho Kdmontoii coal liearing bods I am at present unable to say. I am, li()wev»>r, disposed to take tho former view, notwithstanding that the plimt reinsuns associated with the <'oal Iti'dsare of nuHleru ty|H!S. t-i "Dr. Hector divided the Cretaceous strata of tho prairies into an upper, middle and lower group, and in tho latter he placed the Rf)cky Mountain and Edmonton coal series, at the same time remarking : 'In my next and lowest group I have (with great hesitation) classetl the large deposits of coal or lignite of the prairie country, that are sufiiciently compact to lo of value as fuel, but which have hitherto been generally classed as of tertiaiy age.' 54 "There is no doubt that in British Columbia, aa shown by Mr. Pichai-dson in his hist report — (Report of Pi-ogress, 1862-63,) the coal sprtraa belong to the lower part of the Ci-etaceoua series and are overlaid by more than 4,000 feet of strata holding Inoc- erami, Amvionitei, JiacuUtea, and other marine Cretaceous fossils. " Should there prove to Ije a similar arrangement of the formation in the Saskatch- ewan valley it would very greatly enlarge the area over which workable seams of coal may be ex})ected to occur. =■'= * * In the vicinity of Fort Pitt and thence, wherever sections occur, the whole distance to the Elbow, similar Cretaceous clays with Sejitarian nodules are seen. "At the Elbow the river leaves the eastern limit of the third or upjiermost prairie level formed by the Eagle Hills on the south side, and by the Thickwood Hills on the north side of the valley, and making a sharp bend to the northeast more or less parallel to the trend of the eastern slopes of the hills named, it flows across the second prairie level, making for the nearest point of its eastern limit, which it reached about 45 miles below Fort k la Corne. Between the Elbow and this point, and especially below Carlton, the immediate banks of the river are either low and flat, or rise in Avell wooded slopes, broken into more or less rounded hills and ridges, or showing a succession of tciTaces, to the pi-airie level, some 200 or 300 feet above the river. * * '•' "Blocks and often enormous rook mass(!S of the buff or cream-colored aalutiar lime- stone holding chamcteristic fossils are widely and abundantly distributed over the tiret and second prairie steppes. The ascent to the third praii'io level, which has an average elevation of from 1,900 to 2,000 feet above the sea, commences at the Thickwood Hills, 20 miles west of Carlton, and on it the limestone boulders do not aj)pear to have reached further west thdn the longitude of Fort Pitt, and between Foi-t Pitt and Edmonton not a single boulder of limestone was observed, either along the Saskatchewan Itiver ov on the jtlains. On the river, above the confluence of the Brazeau — a large tributary coming in from the west about midway between the Mountain House and Edmonton — there are no boulders and veiy few pebbles of granite, gneiss or mica schint. At the Moinitain House, the pebbles and bouldera in the drift, which is there scm in contact with the coal bearing rocks as well as those seen along the river bed are nearly all of either coal measure sandstone or conglomerate, or varieties of hard quartzose rocks. * =«= # The timt gold wa.shing mIiIcii we saw in descending the river were rather more tlian 40 miles IkiIow the n\outli cf the Bni/eau; and thonco to Kdiiumton, and for some miles further down, more or less gold has been found on the bars and in the i-iver banks, but always in a very finely divided state, showing evidence of having been tr:\ns]M)rted from afar. Even as low down as Carlton, gold can I bolicve be found, thotigh not in (pian- tities sutHcient to pay for working." Report of ProfrcKx, Cuiindlnii Pacifu- Rnifivdif, 1871,/*. 1-'. "Captain l'allis«>r reported <1hj (^\istel1('(( of hw^v deposits of iron ore in sevenil <|Ufirter.s between the two Haskatchewans. The discovery t)f this ore in oonjunetion with coal at oomo one or more points, which could conveniently bo reached by the railway without Uiking it much out of the direot course, would render the manufacture of rails near the middle of the line possible, and thus o'i)viate the iiniuense cost of a long laml transportation. IStoreover, the establi.shmont of local manufacturing indnsti"i(!s would bo assured." Overlntid Journey ftoimd t/if ]\\ir/y narrow ridges of higher ground, and it is a curious question whether that enormous tract of country, marked 'swampy' in the maps, has not been brought to this condition by the work of beavers, who have thus destroyed, by their own labor the streams necessary to their existence. * ♦ ♦ "The McLeod is a fine sti*eam, about 150 yards broad, flowing over a rocky, pebbly Inil and clear and shallow like the Pembina. The channel of the latter where wn 1 i-ossed it was clean cut through soft strata, with perpendicular cliffs on either side ; while the banks of the McLeod are wider apart, rising steeply but not vertically, to a great height, and richly clothed with pine and aspen. The McLeod is subject to great floods at certain seasons, as evidenced by the great boulders strewn high along the shore, and tlie collections of drift wood accumulated at difierent points and turns of the river. * * * "Following the river valley, we travelled through thick timber, marshes and boggy ground, pleasantly varied occasionally by beautiful {>ark-like oasis of an acre or two in extent, and crossed several small streams, swollen into muddy torrents. * * * Passed on along a well marked trail, wliich ascended abruptly, to avoid a precipitous cliff overhangiig the river at this point. Higher and higher still it led, along rocky ledges or up steep, green, slippery slopes, until it reached the point where vegetation ceased, separated by a rocky precipice from the hight of perpetual snow. * * * On every side a succession of peaks towered up, of strange fantastic shnpe. To the west, the Priest's Rock, a pyramid of ice, shone brightly above a dark pine-clad hill, to the east tiie remarkable Roche Miette ; in front and behind, conical, pinnacled, and nigged mountains. Hundreds of feet immediately beneath rushed the torrent of the Athabasca. Emerging from the heart of the mountains through a narrow gorge into the wider valley, the river expands into a lake ttree or four miles in length ; then again narrowing, flows in several channels round wooded islands, to open out once more into a second lake, smaller than the first. On the furthf>r bank of the river, be* tween the two lakes was Jasper House." Country Between Rocky Mountain House and Edmonton. IS iJOS or in of Captain Palliser's Exploration of B. N. America, folio, p. 77. " Starting at 9 o'clock this morning we found the ice smooth and sound. * * * As the views, or straight portions of the river (Saskatchewan) valley between each benf 9een worn into holes, ridges and conical mounds by the action of water on tho soft clay strata of the cretaceous group. Everywhere it is thickly strewn with boulilers, all derived from the Lain-entine chain to the east, or from Bird's Eye limestone, which rests on tho western flank of that axis. in •'• * '■' " In rising to the sinfiice of tlie third step)>e, we have the plains composed of the cretaceous strata, with only a very thin coating of drift, which has always a local mineral composition corresponding witli that of the underlying strata, without admixture of materials carried from a distance further than a si)rinkling of cn-.itic blocks that are of small size, and are only to be found crowded in favorable sj)ots. * '■■ * " No granite was observed on the east flank of tho Rocky Mountains within British Territory. * ■•' '■'■'■ "The surface of the higher i»liiins are in some localities travci-sod Ity profovniil rents, resembling tho valleys of groat rivers, but which, after running for several mihw, art) genemliy found to Ito closed at both ends. They are often occupied by th'ej> lakes of salt water, depres.sed 200 feet to 300 feet below the plain, and from 500 yards to a mile in width. The great Coulees in tho neighborhood of tlie ' Ear Hills,' south of Battle Ilivcr, are the best exanijdes of tht'se, but Ihoy are found in many other localities. * '''' * *' Before leaving iLc; s>iii«>r(I(iul deposits of the pi airie country, it is ncccssaiy to notice the great river valleys which traverse it, and which all point to a time when the rivora were of nnich larger size than they are now ; even small streams such as Battlo River flow through valleys from 150 to 200 feet deep. Tho sides of these are in general as formal and as regular iis those of a railway cutting, excepting where the nature of tho strata causes frequent slides, or hai'der beds give rise to a cliff structure. Tho flat alluvial bottoms of these valleys are in general four to five times the width of the river which winds through them, and which is hejumed by secondary banks, often 30 to 40 feet high. The silt and alluvium is in general regularly stratilieeyond the opening up of a small portion of the colony ; since, in spite of every effort, no i-eally available line for a railroad between Fort Kamloops and New Westminster has as yet been discovered through the Cascade or Coast Range. " The road down the valley of tho Fraser, on the contrary, though describing a circuitous roxite, would turn the Cariboo or Gold Mountains, and communicate immediate- ly, either below Westroad River, or lower down at Quesnel Mouth, with the Chilcoaten or Great Western Plain of the colony ; Avhilst below the mouth of Bear River, the valley opens upon a fine tract of rolling country, with a climate considerably milder than that of (Canada, and ready for immediate settlement ; instetid of the interminable mountains and forests on the Thompson Route. Tlie Fraser, moi'eover, (whatever may have })eon said or written to tho contrary), ollei-s a valiiab' water coniuuinication, and one immediately available, througli the whole of this cultivable district. "Nor must it be forgotten that the gold diggings, togeth r with tho mining po))ula- tion, arc! coustantly moving on towards the nortli"rn limit of the colony, and that this is tho I'.iroct lino of route to Pt>nco River, and all tho latest gold discoveries." i Ocffin to Ocean, In/ licr. G. M. Or.nif, p. 233. " There is a wonderful combination of l)oauty ab'viit these motnitaina. Great masses of boldly defined bare rock are united to all the brauty that variety of form, color and vegetation give. A iifible river with many ti-ibutaries eaeh defining a distinct range, and a beautiful laki^ ton miles long, embosomed three thousand three hundre- 329. '•' * '■"■ " We may safely state, with the exception of one or two rocky and precipitous bluffs, there are no engineering difficulties of any importance. From the Red River settlement to Edmonton, about 800 miles, the road lies through a fertile and park- like country. From Edmonton to Jas^ter House, a distance of aljout 400 miles, th(i surface is slightly undulating, the lower ground universally swampy, and everywhere covered with thick forests. A bettor trail than the one at present used may be found for this portion of the way, by keeping to the higher ground. From Jasper House to the Tcte Javne Cache — the pass through the main ridge of the Rocky Mountains, about 100 or 120 miles in length — a wide break in tlie chain, running nearly cast and west, offers a natural roadway, unob itructod except l)y timber. The rivers, with the exception of the Athabasca and tlu; L'Vaser, are. small and fordable ; even at tlieir higliest. Tiio ascent to the height of land is very gradual, and, indeed, hardly i»erceptible ; the level oidy 3,7G0 feet above the sea ; and the descent on tlio western slope, although more rapid, is neither steep nor difUcult." it m The lied River Country, Iludsoits Bay ami North-Wast Territories. C./'J. pp. 111-r). By A. J. Russell, •ange * * * "The route, iidvocated by Mr. Waddiugton, through tlie interior, by the valley of the Siiskatchewan, the River Athabasca, and tiio V'ellow Head Pass to the upper Fraser River across to Bute Inlet, is uuijuestionably by far the best aA regards 70 this side of the Rocky Mountains, and the passage through them ; and there is no room to doubt its being so also', to the westward through British Columbia, * * * The height of this pass is nearly tho same level as the elevated sloping plain, on the east side, from which the Rocky Mountains rise. PxdSEs Through the Rocky Mountains. Rp.poi't of Prof/ress Camidian Pacific Railway, ApiKndix E. Esq., 2>p. Ul-2. . Bif Marcus Smith, * * * " There are several i)asses through the Rocky Mountain Chain, giving access from the North- West Tenitory to British Columbia ; some of these are too far south to be eligible for a line of railway to the Pacific coast within the boundaries of that province. "Of those which are more favorably situated, I give the following with their approximate altitudes above the level of the sea, commencing with the most soutlierly and taking them in consecutive order northward, viz : — "1 "2 "3 "4 altitude 4,500 feet. 6,025 " 3,746 " not known Howse Pass, Athabasca, " Yellow Head, " Smoky River, " Pine River or Indian Pass" « « < [Since ascertained to be very easy, and under 2,000 feet.] '• " 6 Peace River, altitude under 2,000 feet. " The eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains, from the foot of the main rocky ranges is a long gently inclined plain or series of steppes, and either of the above passes could probably be reached from the east with moderate grades. B;it on the western slope the country is much more difficult. The Athabasca Pass is too high to be considered eligible for a railway route. The Howse Pass debouches on the Upper Columbia valley, almost at right angles to it and with a very rapid descent, as shown by the surveys made of this pass in 1871 ; and as there is little probability of a pass being found across tlio Selkirk Range between the upper and lower arms of the Columbia River, a line of railway through the Howse Pass would, on entering the Columbia valley, have to turn at a sharp angle and follow the course of that river on a north-west course about 100 miles to tho great bend, at tho Boat Encampment, and there make another sharp ttn-n, and run in an almost opi)osito direction for about 85 miles to the Eagle Pass, through tlie Columbia or Gold Range, by which a connection could bo made with tho valleys ot the Thompson and Eraser. *' Tlie situation of tho Yellow Head Pass is much more faAorablo. It is entered from the east by the valley of tho Athabasca to Jasper House ; it thou follows up the same valley n(!arly duo south to its jimction with the Caledonian valley, thence up the latter, duo west to tho summit of the ])ass. Beyond this tho valley continues westward by a gentle descent to Yellow Head and Moose Lakes. These lakes receive the first tributaries of the Eraser, and from Moose Lake that river issues in a stream 50 to 60 yards wide, which is joined by another branch of greater magnitude from the north before it reaches the Tete Jaime Cache. Here itencouutci-s the Selkh-k Range, or an apparent continuation of tho same, sometimes called the Caril)Oo Range, by whicli it is deflected to a north-west conrso, in .wliich it contiiMics nearly 200 mihsH through a deep valley, completely Hovoriiig this range from tho main chain. Having turned this at the great bend, tho river then Hows almost due soutli for nearly 400 miles, thenoo westward till it enters the Strait of f^«orgia below New "Westminster. " 71 / lit lit "Standing on an elevated point near Tote Jaune Cache, the deep valley of tho Fraser is seen stretching away to the north-west as far as the eye can reach ; then, facing round to the opposite direction, the valley is continued almost in a straight line by tho Canoe River to the gi-eat bend of the Columbia, at the Boat Encampment ; thence up tho Columbia in the same direction to its source ; and thus the great chain of tho Rocky Mountains is cleft longitudinally by a continuous line of deep valleys over 400 miles in length. " The portion thus severed from tho main range is scarcely inferior to it in altitude, and is equally rugged and broken ; it is that terrible snow peaked vaiige seen stretching away from Tcto Jaune Cache, so graphically described in Milton and Cheadle's 'North- west Passage by land.' " On tho westerly flank or foot hills of this range are tho gold bearing rocks, extending south-easterly to the boundary of British Columbia, and north-weisterly in tho same line as far at least as the 5 Gth parallel of latitude." Four Years in British Columbia. Bi/ Commander li. C. Mayne, li.y., F.E.G.S., p. 84. * * " Fort St. George, a Hudson Bay Post, is situated on the west bank of the Fraser River at its junction with the Stuart River, which latter flows in a like direction from Stuart Lake, which is the southern post of a chain of three or four lakes which stretch north wai'd 100 miles to the head watei-s of the Bear River, at tho foot of the Peak Mountains. At tho head of the upper of these lakes stands Fort Connolly." The Dominion at the West. Bi/ Alex. Caidjiild Aiulei'son, J. P., 1872, pp. 2-3-4. " The three principal streams of British Columbia are, tho Columbia, tho Fraser, and the Peace. The last-mentioned, i-ising in tlia angle formed by the Peak Range with the Rocky Mountains and tho Coast Range, after receiving the important gold-bearing tributary, Findlay's Branch, breaks through the main line of tho Rocky Mountains, and, passing onwards, joins the great River Mackenzie ; the united flood, after a course of some two thousand miles, «ventually falling into tho Frozen Ocean. * " The Columbia, rising in the Rocky Mountains, pursues a southerly course, and after receiving several important tributaries, and feeding the two extensive sheets of water called tho Arrow Lakes, entei-s the United States Territory in latitude 49" ; and after a course of nearly a thousand miles, falls into the Pacitic in latitude 4G" 20'. " Fraacr River, comparatively the smallest, but in its relation to the Province by far the most important, flows entirely through British Columbia, entering the Gulf of Georgia a few miles north of the boundary line of 49", and in about 122" 40' wast longitude; its course throughout being nearly parallel with that of tho Columbia. The main, or central, branch takes its rise in the Rocky Mountains in hit. 53" 45' N., long. 118" W., there heading with tho Riviere do Miette, a tributary of the Athabasca, v/hich afterwards unites with Peace River in its course towards tho Frozen Ocean. Fraser River was first discovered by Sir Alexander Mackenzie of the North-West Com- pany, who, designating it as tho Td-cout-chi; Tei^se, or River of tho Tuoully nation, descended it for some distance on his way to tho Western Coast in 1 793. Afterwards, in 1808, it was navigated to its mouth by Mr. Simon Fraser and Mr. John Stuart of tho North- West Company ; from the former of whom it has its present name. Fraser Rivei", a few miles from its source, flows into a lake some miles in length called Cow-dung Lake, below which, considerably increased by a tributary from the north, it enters Moose Lake, a beautiful sheet of water somo nine miles in length. Thence the river continues rapidly to Tdte Jaune Cache, being joined midway by a second feeder, likewise from the north. 78 " T6to Jaune Cache, distant about 70 miles from the sumriit of the Rocky Mountains and 730 from the sea, is the limit of canoe navigation on the Fraser. About three miles lower down, the stream is joined by the CranbeiTy Fork, a tributary flowing from the south, which heads in with the North Branch of the Thomjwon, to be presently noticed, and the Canoo Fork of the Columbia. " Between Tete Jaune Cache and Thle-et-leh, where there is a post of the Hudson's Bay Company called Fort George, the river is augmented )jy many tributaries ; two of which the Mackenzie Fork and Bear Iliver are of considerable magnitude, this point is in latitude 53" 53', longitude 122'> 45'. An important branch here falls in from the westward, proceeding from Lakes Stuart and Fraser. Quesnel River, issuing from the great lake of the same name, flows in 100 miles lower down ; and 40 miles below this is Fort Alexandria, seated on the right bank in hit. 52" 33' 40". " It is in the mountainous region comprised within the gi-eat Iwnd which the Fraser makes between T6to Jaune Cache and this point, that the rich gold deposits, known as the Cariboo mines, are situated. "At Lytton, about 180 miles from the sea, the Fraser is joined by Tliompson's River, a copious tributaiy flowing from the eastward. This stream watera an extensive and important section of the country ; its northern branch heading with the Cranberry Fork, before mentioned." Ihid, pp. 11-12. ■ ^ ♦ ■■!= * " The mainland of British Columbia, apai-t from the seaboard, may be divided into three sections, each difiering from the other in its attributes. The fii-st extends from the mouth of the Fraser River to the head of the rapids above Yale : the second, from that point to Alexandi-ia': the third, thence to the Rocky Mountains. " llie characteristics of the lower district are a surface thickly wooded in most parts with trees of enormous growth, chiefly varieties of the fir and pine, and intermixed with the red cedar (Thuja Occidentalis of Douglas, Giyantea of Nuttall) and the maple- plane (Platanus Acerifolm). Low alluvial points fringe these thickets. These, as well as the numerous islets along the river, are co*. sred with aspens, balsam poplars, and alders, of luxuriant growth. In the lower part are some extensive meadows, yielding, in their natural state, heavy crops of a coai"se but nutritious grass, and, under cultivation, enor- mous returns of cereals and other produce. For a certain period of the year mosquitoes are troubksome along the river, as high, nearly, as Hope : but there has never been manifested any symptom of fever and ague, or other similar endemic, so often generated in positions of a like description. " On the verge of the second, or central, division a marked change commences. The copious ri'ins which fall in the lower district are gieatly modified after we pass the moun- tainous: ridge through which the river burets near Yale. Evidences of a drier climate appear at every step. The character of the vegetation changes. About Lytton the cactus begins to appear. In ^ i )ots along the Thompson the ai-temisia, and other shrubs indicative of a dry and hot cUiaate, are found : and in lieu of the thickly-wooded luxuri- ance of the lower region, a succession of open valleys, covered with fine pasture and bordered by gi'assy hills in parts more or less wooded, delights the eye of the traveller. Hei'e and there belts of forest intei-vene ; amid which broad expanses of open land lie scattered at intervals, This general desci-iption may be regarded as applying to a very lar^e tract of country, extending from Alexandria on the Fraser, in latitude 52" 33', to the southern boundary line on the Okinagan River : and thence at intervals towards the south-eastern angle of the province. 78 " The tliiixl division of Biitish Coluialiia, from Alexautlria to tlio Mountains, varies materially from the other two. The agricultural region, properly ho calleil, may \m said to terminate in the vicinity of Alexandria ; though there are many small spots beyond that point which may bo advantageously cultivated for culinary vcgctahles and the harder cereals. Generally speaking it is a wooded country, through which many open sjuits of excellent soil are intersjiersed, with large tracts of luxuriant pasture — esi)ecially in the direction of Fraser and Stuart I^akes, and in the Chilcotin country. From Fort (Jeorgo, however, up the main branch of the Fnuser to T6to Jauno Cache, none of tlio.so op(!ii l)livces a])pear : and though many cultivable patches along the river banks might in parts be roadily cleared, it is probable that the occun-enco of summer night-frosts would pro- vent the growth of any save the hardier vegetables. Fraser Ijiiko, however, anil the neighboring lake of Stuart, have been for many years the scene of agricidtiual operations on a small scale, at the Posts, formerly of the North-West, anil since the coalition of 1821, of the Hudson's Bay Company. At the former place, especially, these limited operations were invai'iably successful. Potatoes, turnips, and other vegetables throve wonderfully. Barley yielded invariably a heavy return ; and thougli wheat wm.s culti- vated occasionally only, on a very small scale, and rather experimentally than as a crop, it ripened well in favorable positions. The pasture in these vicinities is of the most luxui'iant description, consisting of fine natural grasses intermixed with a nutritious kind of wild iK3a, or vetch. Cattle and hoi-ses of coui-se thrive well ; but the necessity of providing fodder against the lengthened winter of these elevated parts, discourages tlieir being raised beyond a limited extent. " This upper region, however, is to be considered more especially as the mininfj dis- trict : and any partial cultivation that may be attempted to meet an extended market in connection with the mines, must be regai'ded only as subsidiixry to the main sujiply, de- rived from a remoter source." . ; • The Geological Survey of Canada, ISTl-S. Report by Mr, Juuies liicluirdson, pp. 74-5. ' ' * * * " Deposits of stratified clay, sand, and gravel are of raio occur- rence ; but around the shores and on the lower parts of the mountains, the rocks are for the most part overlaid by a thin layer of black vegetable soil, which supports a tolerably thick forest, consisting of white spnice, white pine, and cedar, many of the trees mcjisur- ing from two to three feet at the base, and running up from 40 to 60 feet without a branch. The great extent of these forests, and their proximity to navigal>le watei-s, are elements which at no distant date will ])robal)ly make them of very considerable value and importance." Report of the Select Committee on Immigration ami Colonization, Ilout^c of Commons, Canada, Professor Maconns Evidence, 2>p, 34-5. " Q, How do the volleys in British Columbia compare in extent with o\ir general views of valleys { curi- and Uler. lie irery to lards " A, The British Columbian valleys are more of the nature of ravines (I speak of those in the dry country) than anything else, but there are many level terraces, ('ber»ches') which may be termed valleys, scattered all over the country traversed by me. lliver valleys in British Columbia, except in the third district, have no existence. Every river seen by me in the middle region ran at the bottom of a gorge, usually called a Canyon, and had not one foot of a valley; The valley of the Lower Fraser is a true valley of de- position, and is altogether composed of the alluvium brought down by the river ; one drawback in connection with it, is the destruction caused every year by the river cutting into its banks and wasting the land along them. At Sumas this is going on so last that houses have had to be removed already. 10 '^n 74 t " Q. What is the nature of the soil in the valleys ? Do you find rich alluvial de- posits in the valleys, or are they covered with the debris of rocky fragments washed from the mountains ) " A. The soil in the valleys, whether tliey are narrow or wide, ('benches') or other- wise, is alwayH good. The valleys are partly alluvium and partly the detritus washed down from the hills. Apparently there waf a time when the rivers stood much higher than they do now, and the (' benches') which show along their sides were then about on a flood level with the river. Since then the river has successively broken through the bar- riers which confined it, and left these terraces (< benches ') at vaiious heights. The slopes of all the hills are more or less grassy, and tlie valleys along their base have scarcely any loose stone upon them in consequence. " Q. Have you a knowledge of the temperature 1 If so, how does the thermometer range during the summer and winter monti i both on the coast and inland Y Are summer frosts prevalent and injurious to crops ? "A. I was in Victoria from the 12tli to 28th December, 1872, and from the 2nd to 14th May, last year. While I was in Victoria in 1872, a fall of snow and slight frost took place, and the papers came out next day with an account of the extraordinarily cold weather, and I was led to infer from that, that such weather was not common in winter. Jessamine, roses, and violets were in flower, and everything betokened a mild winter. The summer on the coast is everything that lan be desired, being dry and pleasant. " In the arid region the spring is about iis early as on the coast ; the winter is com- paratively cold, with very little snow, and tlie summer is dry and hot. Summer frosts can do no harm in these regions. " From Clinton upwards the winter is very cold with a considerable snow-fall and frosts extending through the month of May, and possibly into June. I heard of no in- jury from frosts at Quesnelle or any point ou the Fraser, but noticed frost on the grass on the 27th May, at or near Soda Creek. From this date until the 4th June, the weather kept cold, but there was no frost. On the 28th June at MacLeod's Lake, lat. 55", there was a severe frost, and many wild flowere were injured, but nothing was hurt in the garden. " Q, What are the facilities for reaciiing the cultivable plateaux from the sea- board t "A. From Victoria to Westminster and Yale by steamboat ; then by waggon road along the canyons of the Fraser and Thompson to Spence's Bridge on the latter river. From here a 'trail' leads up the Nicola Valley for an iinknown distance. Thirty-two miles beyond this point, at Cache Creek, a road leads to Kamloops and the waggon road passes on to Barkerville in Cariboo. Except a branch road passing from Clinton to Lilloet on the Fraser, I know of no other roads in the country." CEltTRAL PlATBAU. Four Years in British Columbia. By Commander R. C. Mai/ne, R.N,, F.R.G.S.,pp. 382-3. **''=" The natural resources of British Columbia, independently of its mineral wwilth, are such as to make it well worthy of the consideration of agricultural settlers. JL " After the Cascade Range is passed, the country assumes an entirely different aspect from that of the coast. The dense pine-forests cease, and the land becomes open, clear, and in the spring and summer time covered with bunch-grass, which affords excellent grazing for cattle. Although this country may rightly be called open, that word should not be understood in the sense in which an Australian settler, for instance, would accept it. Thera are no enormous prairies here, as there, without a hill or wood to break the monotony of the scene far as the eye can reach. It is rather what the Califomians term 'rolling country' broken up into pleasant valleys and sheltered by mountain ridges of rarious height. These hills are usually well clothed with timber, but with little, if any, undergrowth. The valleys are generally clear of wood, except along the banks of the streams which traverse them. ♦ ?• * The timber upon the hills \a very light compared with its growth upon the : jast. ■# * * "Governor Douglas, speaking of this di-trict says : — '"Tlie district is exceedingly beautiful and picturesque, being composed of a suc- cession of hills and valleys, lakes and rivers, exhibiting to the traveller accustomed to the endless forests of the coast districts the unusual and grateful spectacle of miles of green hills crowning slopes and level meadows, almost without a bush or tree to obstruct the view, and even to the very hill tops producing an abundant growth of grass. * * ♦ It has certainly never been my good fortune to visit a country more pleasing to the eye, or possessing a more healthy and agreeable climate." ' Report by Lieut. II. Spencer Palmer^ Royal Jhigimers, on the Noi'th Rentuick Arm tlie route thence through tfie Cascade cliain oj mountains to the interior ^ 0/ British Columbia. and 2-3. its iral # # # "Tlie belt of country lying between the Summit Lake and the Chilcotin River, presents more attractive features than any other portion of the route. Ranges of rolling hills of as much as 1,000 feet in height enclose broad, open valleys watered by gentle streams, and embellished -with chains of picturesque lakes. Although considerable tracts of dense forests are met with on the heights and on the mountain slopes, this gives way in the lowlands to an open-timbered grassy coimtry, such as is met with in the Similkameen and other well known districts of British Columbia, and the valleys also embrace nimierous comparatively level, ©iien praries of various extent, which afford bunch-gross pasturage in fair abundance and will probably be found to be con- venient wintering posts. * t- * "As regards routes from the coast, the impression conveyed by this glimpse at a very large tract of country is that on emerging from the Cascade Range, the principal difficulties of travel are passed and that, thence, there is no impracticability in making a road across the plateau to strike the Fraser at almost any point. * ** The determination of the best line through so extensive a district would necessarily l)e a labor involving weeks or even months of exploration, the main object of course being to avoid as far as possible the lakes and swamps, and, guided by t'le "clative geograi>hical position of the termini, to lay out as straiirlit a road as the natural features of the country admit of. * * * straiglit "Reclining once more to the route across the plateau, I must notice, as one of its most pi"ominent features, the almost entire absence of hills between the I'lcoipico and Alexander, the valleys of the l*o«>tz«ako and the Chilcotin, and the final descent to the Fraser being the only points where hills worth mention occur. Swamps are very goncral. 7« probably, in all, tho actual extont of swamps tmveraed, in pieces from 20 to 400 yards in longtL, does not exceed ten miles. " Of the climate of the plateau I can not give any reliable data, though it is probable that owing to its great altitude, which fi-om the slide eastwards nearly everywhere exceeds 2,000 feet, and reaches to more than 4,000 foot al)ovo the the level of the soa. * =•' " Bentinck Arm roiite is unlikely, for tho present at least, to ac<|uirc importance iw an arterial highway. * ♦ * Bute Inlet apjiears to possess far gi'eater advantages of geographical position, and we learn from the admiralty survey that there is a passHblo anchorage at its head." Rnixyft of Select Committee, House of Commoiui, Canada, on Iinniltjidtlou and Coloniza- tion, 1876. Prof. Macoun^s Evidcnee, j>- 33. "Between Quesnelle and Fort St. James, on Stewart's Lake, is a wide extent of coun- try (180 miles) with a very diversified asjiect, and a cool, moist climate. The valley of tho Nechaco Iliver is very wide and perfectly Icjvel. On both sides of the river are beautiful prairies and poplar copsewood, and at the time we passed (June 15th) through it, everything looked beautiful and inviting. "I 'cannot sjieak with certainty of tho al>sencc or occuiTonco of suninior frosts, but if they should not be severe this would l)o one of tho finest tracts. (Nechaco Valley) in all British Columbia. "The whole country above Quesnelle scorns to h.avo a cool, moist climate, and to bo moro like Quebec in its productions than Ontario. Fort St. James, on Stewart's Lake — the highest point in the district — has always been known to produce garden vogetabk*, j)otatoe8, barley and oats, but whether wheat has ever been raised or not I am unable to say. All this region is an elevated plateau with broken, rocky hills at intervals, but scarcely anything which could be called a mountain. Should the railway pass as far north as the Neshaw, many fine settlements would spring up along the river. Four Tears in British Colnmhia. Sij Commander 7'. C. Mayne, 1\.N., F.U.G.S. p. 140. * ^' * " When Sir Alexander Macken/ip exjtlored this part of the country, he appeal's to have ascended the West Itoad River from the Frasor, and then, crossing the ridge forming the watci-shed, to have de.scended to tlie sea, His route has never been exactly followed ; but in 18G0 Mr. Colin McKenzie crossed from Alexandria to the same place on the coast, viz : Rascals' Village or Bella-houla Bay, in thirteen days by way of Chilcotin Lake. His party travelled the greater portion of the way on horseback. Mr. McKenzie told me that they might have taken their animals all the way by changing the route a little. On theii- way back, indeed, they did so. The ascent to the watershed was, he said, so gradual, that they only knew they had passed the summit by finding that the streams ran west, instead of east." Ibid, p. 148. ♦ * * "The trail runs tho whole distaiien from xVii'xaiidria to Coast Rungo on a kind of tableland, which is studded in every direction with lakes and lucailows. The streams are numerous but small and shallow, in fact, mere creeks. There are some swamps. * * * There is plenty of fallen thuber ; but it is light and could easily be clcai-ed." direct.on. way." 77 Proposed Overland Railroad. litj Alfrfxl Waddi nylon, ji. 19. * " Tho road woiiM cross tlu? licli Cliilcotin pliiin in n south-westerly '■'■' This sligiitly rolling, IVrtile plain oiloi-a every facility for a niil- Triiveln in Driti.di Cohnnhin. Tiif Capt. C. E. Jlarrett-f.mnard, p. L'OS. * '■' ■'■'• " So f)ir as nsaohing tho Frascr from tho coast is concorncd, tho Buto Inlet route has tho advantage of heing tho shorter M-ay hy 20 miles, which is much moro accessible from Victoria than Ben tinck Arm." Coast of BniTiSH Cour.MniA. Tfie Do7ninlon at the West. Jii/ Alex. C aid ft eld Anderson, J. P., p. ■"). * * * " Tho coast range (/. «. the chain of mountains lying hotwoen tho interior of i ■ jirovince and the seaboard) comnieiicc^s above New Westminster, and ex tends piralic, with tho coast, as far as ]\tount St. Elias at the northern extremity. "'•' '•• " A i*eferenco to the map will show that the North-west Coast from San Francisco u])Wards as far as the Strait of Fuca, ])resents a lino remarkably free from indentation. Tlience northward, however, the coast is broken up into a perfect iiiiize of inlets, forming in their ramifications countless islands of greater or less extent. The minute exploration of this exti-aordinary archipelago by Vancouver, in the years 17i)l-9.'{, has given us maps the accuracy of which under the circumstances has excited the admimtiou of succeeding navigators. Outside of the archipelago lie two principiil islands, Vancouver and Queen (/harlotte, divided from each other by a broad sound, and extending from the Strait of Fuca on the South to the frontier of Alaska on the North. The southern island, named by tho exjilorer Quadra and Vancouver's Island, after the Spanish Commander then on the station and himself, formed originally, with its dependencies, the Colony of Vancouver Island. It extends in a north-western direction from hit. 48" 20' to lat. 51", in length nearly 250 geogi-aphical miles ; its greatest breadth, ojiposite to Nootka, being about seventy. Victoria, the seat of Government and Capital of the Province, is situated near the south-eastern extremity of the Island, where the adjoining Strait of Fuca is about seventeen miles in breadth. This strait, extending into the United States Tei-ritory by the inlet tenninating in Puget Souml on the south, expands northward into the Culf of Georgia, which extends to lat. 50". This portion of the dividing channel in no part ex- ceeds 20 miles in -width ; contracting afterwards into Johnstone's Strait, which, at the narrowest part, does not exceed two miles." The J/if /.■'>,>'.■< B,ni IWritnrles. Jl;/ R. J/. Marl! n, p. 27. ■= • ' ■ "' * '■''• " The coast abounds with harbors, inlets and islands, of which latter that called Vancouver, or Quadra is the largest and most important to Great Britain, from its position at the termination of the United States boundaiy, in the 49th parallel of latitude, and from its fine harboi-s, there being no haven between the Straits of Juan de Fuca and San Francisco, iri California. * * * "Tho islands within l]i(> British dominions arc of various sizes ; tlie largest, named 'Queen Charlotte's Island,' is somcjwhat of a triangular form, lying nearly north and south; the south point in the parallel of 52". The superficial area is less than that of Vancouver Island, it has several go>,-■')■' - Ibid, 2>' 35. Report of Lieut. Vavasour, R.E. # * "The Straits of Juan de Fuca, which sep; ate Vancouver Island from the mainland, may bd safely navigated; tho shores are stuJght and bold ; on the south composed of perpendicular cliffs that run back in high and rugged peaks, on tlio north rocky, and in some pbiccs of reddish granite." Navioatjon. Facls uiul Fvjurcs relating to Vancouver lalarul ami Britinh Columbia. Pemberton, p. 9. Ihj J. Despard * * * "It appoar.1 far from improbable that this strait (San Juan do Fucii) win ultimately become the great commercial thorouglifaro fo" the commerce of the nortli Pacitic, and that Juan de Fiica, when he discovered it 260 years ago, was right in his conjecture that he had found tho north-west passage. This idea k, strengthened by an examination oi the ports which lie between San Francisco and the strait. Tliat this coast line, nearly 600 miles in length, should not possess a single reapoctable harbor is ;i very roniarkabh? fact." Ibid, p. 11. *' " ♦ " Tlie Strait of San Juan de Fuca is, on an average, cloven miles wide, and is free from sunken rocks or shoals ; its direction is east to west for about 7(* miles to its junction with the channels, which load by a noitherly coui'se into tho (jl\ilf of (Jeorgia, which separates Vancouver Island from the Continent. The approach is safe for all d'jscriptions of vessels, being liable to no other dangers than those incident to gales from the south-east, which, with considerable intervals of tranouil Wviather, are, in winter, not uncommon, and to fogs, or rather dense smoke arising from forests on fire in autumn. Although in the latter case soundings are a safeguard, and good anohornge can generally be found within a mile of either shore. iland 1 tlio tho 79 " The facility for entering ond navigating tliis strait has been greatly increased by the erection of lighthouses on tlie south shore by the United States Government, and on the noi*th by the British." . Ibkl, p. 12. * * " Once within the strait, on both coasts safe anchorage ami good harbors are everywhere met with. '■' * ^'hat harbora such as these should occur at the limit of sailing navigation is a very happy circumstance for these colonies. The •waters of the Gulf of Georgia are well adapted for steamei-s, but, there, uncertain tides and variable winds, fogs, currents, hidden dangers and detention, pi-actically exclude sail- ing vessels." Ibid, p. 13. "That these harboi-s are connected with upwards of 100,000 acres of arable land in the background is a strong recommendation for them. "•' ''• "If a ship, running from a storm in the Pacific, having entered tho strait, should be baffled in her endeavours to reach the harbor or anchorages on tho north shore, the winds preventing must be fair to take her into Neah Bay, Calum Bay, Pert Angelos, or Port Townsend, on the south shore. * * '■' " Enough has perhaps been said to ;.aow that the facilitief for navi- gation in the vicinity of these colonies is uimvalled, and that there is no want of harbour accommodation. " Of those deep saltwater inlets, with which the coast abounds, I may here mention two peculiarities. At the heatl of every one of those that I have ever visited a fresh water stream is found, tractions." The second i)eculiarity is the frequency in them of gorges or coji- Ihid,pp, 16-17. * * " The interior of British Columbia is everywhere intci-sected by natui'al water cominunicatioiLS, in which respect it greatly resembles the Canadas." de in tl this is n 70 llf of safe rales in in I can Fisheries. Jieport of Select CcmmUlei', on Immigration aivd Colonhalion. Canada, 187G. pp. 36-7. Itouae of Commons, " Q. Are there any extensive fisheries on the rivers or coasts I What kind of fish are caught, are they exported and to what extent ] " A. From the boundary line to Alaska there is not a bay, ford or river that is not teeming with fish. Salmon are caught in great numbers, both in spring, summer and autumn Last spring large quantities of tdh were b«ing caught at New Westminster for ex{)ort. An establishment for the canning ot salmon has been established there, and it is to be hoped that this is the beginning cf a very pros{>erous business. Salmon ascend the Fraser all the way to Stewart's Lake, which they reach about tho month of August ; they likewise ascend the Skeena into the Babine Lake, and ai-e caught by the Indians and the Hudson Bay Company's {)eople and dried for winter's use . The salmon of Babine Lake are both larger and fatter than those caught m Stewart's Lake, and are therefore brought acrasa to supply Fori St. James with food in winter. ^BB 80 " Sturgeon 700 lbs. weight are often caught in the a])ove-nientioned lakes, anil every lake ai (1 stream in Uj)per British Columbia teems with trout of dillbreut species, besides many other varieties of less value. - -- i v >- . ;i " Of salt water lish I know but little, except one small one — the 'IIouHcau ' — which I saw in the Fraser in myriads last spring. Many wore lying dead along the ri.-er and served as food for various animals. Halibut were very plentiful in Victoria, and many other soafish of wiiich I did not learn the names. I bnliovo the fisheries of British Columlna, if properly conducted, would eventually bo as profitable as those of the Gulf of St. Lawienco. Desolation Souxd. lieport <>/ Mr. WUliani Dowiiie to Governor Jamas Douglas. * * * II "W^g anived safe in Desolation Sound, which docs certainly look somewhat desolate in a snow-storm ; but I am well pleased with the prospect of this section. This is the first time I have seen pure veins of sulphuret of iron, which looks very much like silver. I came across a number of scams of tlio same kind. It lies in the quartz, the same as gold. # # * <i! « 'piio coal can bo worked at a comparatively small expense over a field of flucli extent. Some of it has been brought to England, and answered exceedingly well in forges." 81 Four Years in British Columbia. Hi/ Commander R. C. Mayiic, E.JV., F.R.C.S., p. 390. ■-" * "In the northern part of the colony (Columl)ia), from Alexanemes are found throughout the country. The Oregon grape {Berherls fifjiii/dHidii. and 'n/irrosa) extends all the way from Vancouver to lat. 5.")" iu the intei-ior, and to Alaska along the coast. om L>ld " Perhaps there is no better place in the world for raising fruit than Vi(!toria, Apples and pears of a very large size are produced in such abundance^ that the former can hardly be sold at any price. The orchards are all in the low wet grouiuls and will begin to decay in a few years, whereas if they were planted among the I'ocks where the oak grows, the trees would live longer and probably produce V)etter fruit. I can see no reason why grapes could not Ije proiluced in abundance on any part of Vancouver, if the summer temperature is high enough. After the railway is built Vancouver will send immense quantities of fruit into the interior as it can be raised to any extent and of every kind." II 82 Ibid, I). 37. " Q. Do you know from actual observation whether any intertropical currents and prevailing winds flowing along the coast of Vancouver and British Columbia have a tendency to ameliorate the climate in a simi'ar manner as the Gulf Stream afiects the Maritimp Provinces ? fact. "">'!. I know nothing of it from actual observation, but that it is so is a demonstrateil " About the island of Formosa, on the eastern coast of China, a current analogous to the Gulf Stream is observed moving to the north-east. It passes Japan, and pi.rt of it enters Behring's Sea and warms the northern part of Alaska, while the other part is deflected farther to the east and passes down the West Coast of America, carrying with it the heat necessaiy to produce the exceptionally warm climate of Vancouver and the West Coast generally. It is this stream which gives the heat and moisture that are the cause of the magnificent forests found from Alaska southwards. The forests of Norway and those of Western America are the product of the two great currents — the ' Gulf Stream ' on the east and 'Kuro Siwo' on the west, and sceptics may rest assured that the value of the West Coast timber far exceeds that of the Eastern Provinces." Gold Fields. Fart^ riiul FujnrfiK relatiiKj to Vancouver Island and Bvitixh ColnmhUt. Ihj ,1 . Des^pard Pemberton, p. 30. * ■'' " The wide distribution of gold in British Columbia is very strik- ing : ti'aversing the country diagonally from north to south, the Fraser River every- where passes through a gold country. The same may be said of the Thompson River, and of the Columbia north of 49". '■'■ * As a rule, the gold is found in much smaller particles, and less in quantity nearer the mouths of these rivers, and both size and quantity increase as we ascend them." Travnh in. British Columbia. By Cnpt. (', /•,'. Barrett Leunard, p. 173. * * ''■ "The gold regions of British Columbia lie l)etwccn these (the coast) ranges of mountains and the great central chain of the North American Continent, the Rocky INIountains. In the more level districts between these various mountain ranges we meet with vast areas of fertile land, destined hereafter to become important agricultural and pastoral countries." llepm't «l' Select Committee on Immigrntion and Colonization, House, of Comiiionn, Canada, 1870. Prof. Macoun's Evi'lencf, p. 'M. *'(>. What are the mineral interests of Jhitish Columl>ia I Ai-o they developed to any extent! Wo»ild encoui-agement to mining interests develope agricultural interests and increase immigration to the Province J , , "A. Gold has been found in paying quantities at Okanagan on the American Boundary, — at Shuswap Lake — at Cariboo — on the Ominica — on the Stickeen — and latterly at Cassiar, and an examination of the map will show that all this gold is pro- duced from mountaiiis lying between the Rockies and the Cascades. Copper, iron, and silver have been found at vaiious points in the Cascades, and coal is abundant on Vancou\ei' and Queen Chai'lotte's Islands. I just mention these and ask : Are those 83 all, or are they merely indications of what is to come ? After having travelled over 1,000 miles through British Columbia, I can say with safety that there will yet be taken out of her mines wealth enough to build the Pacific Railway. Consider that gold has been found in paying quantities, at various points, along a north-west lino for more than ten degrees of latitude, before you decide that the foregoing statement is that of an enthusiast. " Cariboo is really the only point where the gold interest has been developed. Coal is mined at Nanaimo, and these constitute the developed mining interests of British Columbia. Gold has been found on Vancouver itself, and there is no reason why it should not pay for the working." Export of Gold. The Dominion at the Went. By Alex. C. Anderson, J, P., Apiien-Ux F. " Shipment of gold, product of the British Columbia mines from the year 185b to 1871 inclusive, 621,278,!)iG.63. " The foregoing may be accepted as a correct return as far as the lecords sliow ; but it does not convey a just impression of the whole gold-produco of the country, owing to the large amounts taken away in private hands, the aggregate of which it is impossible to estimate." Althtdes. The Dominion at the West, By Alcjc. Cauljidd Aiulenon, J. P., 1872, p. 30, Ai>pciidio\ " Approximate altitudes above the sea of some places in British Columbia, from observations by ofticei"s of the lloyal Eugineoi's. " Fort Alexandria, Fraser level, 1,420 feet. " Frascr lliver at mouth of Quesiiel Biver, 1,4'JO " do do do Swift do 1,530 " do at Fort George, 1,600 " " Lillooet Lake, 620 " "Summit do (Lillooet route) 1,482 " Summit altitude of trail Chilcotin Plateau, 4,300 " Summit Lake, on do do do 4,020 EC'OXOMIC Ml.VEUALS. on lieso Travels in British Coliunbia. By Capt. C. H. Barrett LeananI, /ip. I."i7.8. * '•• * " Of the mineral i)roductions of DritLsh Columbia, it is iliiriciilt as yet to speak with perfect confidence, save as rtsgards the now world-notorious fact of its auriferous wealth. Both silver and copper are known to exist in considerable (juantities, and mines of both metals have recently bt«n o])ened. I have frequently seen specimens of silver ore brought by Indians to Victoria, from districts lying adjacent to tlie sea coast. "Coal is known to exist in various districts of British Columbia. Stone, suitable for every purpose of building, only requires to bo quarried. Limestone and sandstone are everywhere abundant. Marble, of various kinds, is found in the coast range of mountains. Salt exists in many localities, and is obtained in great quantities from the salt springs of Nanaimo." im T 84 i Four Yea/rs ia British Columbia. By Commander R. C. Mayne, R.N. d'c, pp. 380-1-2. *■' * * "All tlie north end of Vancouver Island contains coal measures, and some (juiiutity has been taken out a little way to the northward of Fort Ruijert. * '^' It is no exaggeration, indeed, to say, that coal exists all along the shores of both colonies (B. Columbia and Vancouver Island). * * ;•' " For economic purposes these beds are very valuable. * * " It may be remarked that the deeper the workings at Nanaimo ai'e carried the 1 tetter the quality of the coal becomes." O'eufo'jical Survey of Canada, 1872-3, pp. 80-1. Appendix lyy Dr. llarrinijton to Mr. Ric/inrdsou^ s Report. .--it" ■ ■- * •,•; * a Tjjg QQ^i itself is bright, tolerably hard, and not unlike some of the best qualities of English or Welsh coal in appearance. It bums freely with a good heat, but produces a great amount of ash. It is univei-sally used by all Her Majesty's ships on the coast, and by all the colonial and other steamers plying on the coast. It is highly valued as fuel for domestic purposes, both in Victoria, San Francisco and other towns. Gas is manufactured from it in Victoria of good illuminating quality. * * * " The Vancouver coals are for the most part true bituminous coals, and the name of 'lignite' which has been applied to them by a number of writers, is altogether a misnomer. * '■' •' " I have recently examined specimens (of Queen Charlotte Islands coal) collected by Mr. Ilichai'dson and found them to be true anthracites. Iron Ores. Gculo'jical Survey i* Canada, 1^73-1. Report by Mr. Rtc/uudson, p. 100. * * * " These ores could scarcely be mort; favorably situated than they are, either as regards mining, smelting or shipment. There is deep water close to the shore, and wharves might be easily and cheaply constructed, at which vessels could always load in safety. '' * The site of the ore is 18 miles from Comox Harbor, L' 1 miles from Deep Bay, and about 23 miles from Fanny Bay. These are all good and safe harbors, and arc only a short distance from the productive coal scams of the Comox area. " Iron ore is i-ei)ortcd to occur also in the following l<3calities ; " 1 . Fifty yards from the Yale and Cariboo waggon road. * * * It is a magnetic oro, and is stated to occur in a vein eight feet in thickness. '• :'.. • (ni*> mile up the river at the head of Kuiyht's lulcl. *' \ • J3 '-vest from Menzie's Bay, V. I., near Seymour Narrows, close to some oi" ri .. . , ,; ' ■-'■ ■•' the Comox area. " 4. On the west side of Fitz Hugh Sound, at the entrance to River's Inlot. •'5. Iron ore is said to occur on the'shoi-es of a bay to the south-cast of Cape Commfcrc-11, at the north-west end of Vancouver Island." Attractions for Settlement. Tlie Daniiiiion at tJie West. By A. C. Anderson, J.P., j>. 87. "Tho general advantages of British Columbia as a field for iminigiution may be briefly sinnnicd. " A temperate climate, remarkably salubrious in its character ; a feitile soil easily brought into cultivation ; rich and extensive pastures ; abundant natural resources for procuring food ; land cheaply, if not gratuitously, attainable by the industrious ; good government nnder a liberal constitution ; security of life and projjcrty under rigidly executed laws ; facilities for religious worship for every denomination ; a liberal system of education, free of cost ; ready and cheap |X)stal communication with all parts of the world ; telegraphic facilities through the United States to Canada and Euroije ; a wide and con- stantly extending market, soon to be enormously increased by the progress of the Canadian Pacific Railway and other concomitant enterprises. " Trade and Commerce. Travels la British Columbia. By Capt. (J. E. Bairrelt Leniumf, p. 181. *■ * * a xhe situation of British Columbia and Vancouver Ibiand, on the Pacific, is admirably adapted for carrying on a trade with China, Japan, India, and Austi-alia, and it is not too much to suppose that these colonies must become the great highway for ti-afhc between the above-mentioned countries and England, in the event of completion of this line of railroad. The distance between London ajad Pekin would by this means be reduced some ten thousand miles, and the entire journey would probably not occupy moi'e than a month or five weeks— while Vancouver itself would be brought some five or six thousand miles nearer to this country (England) than ever by the short overland route of Panama." J hid, p. 182. * # * "What a grand future would the construction of such a line of railroad open for these remote deijendencies of the British Ci'own on the Pacific ! What a glorious day would that be for British Columbia, when, vessels sailing from India, China, and Australia should meet at some point on her coasts, to land their passengers and discharge their cargoes, returning again laden with articles of our own manufacture ! Numbera of those passengers to India, China, and Australia, who now go by the way of the Cape of Good Hope, or by Suez, would in preference select the inter-oceanic railway of Canada, as both cheaper and more expeditious. The saving in the time of transit to China, especially to the more noithern portions of that empii'e, and to Japan, would be very great, and the mercantile community, both in England and hx the east, would be greatly benefited by the establishment of n constant, speedy, and safe moans of communi- cation passing througli British territory. "Another great advantage to be derived from the establishment of a line of com- munication between the Atlantic and Pacific through British temtory, would be the facilities it would afford for the transport of troo])s, stores, and artilleiy to any point along the frontier line or on the coast of the Pacific." Ibid, p. 184. '» . * ' • * * ="' "The advantages that would accmo to Great Britain from the entire service being performed through Britiiih territory are incalculable. The con- n 86 struction of the milway would not merely open to civilization a large territoiy in British North America, hithei-to almost unexplored, but it would open up to the cultivators of the soil, in that temtory and in Canada, a means of trarisit to all the markets of the Pacific, and an open passage to the China seas, and to our [mssessions in the East Indies ; in every aspect, whether viewed ix)litically, socially, or commercially, the establishment of the j)ro]>osed railway would give a progressive impulse to the affaii-s of the world, which in its results, would eclipse anything that has been witnessed jven amid the extraordinary achievements of the present century." Ibid, p. 185. * " An attempt will be made to can-y out the long ])rojected idea of an overland communication from Lake Superior by the Red River, Lake Winnipeg, and the Saskatchewan, to the foot of the Rocky Mountains, and finally across them into British Columbia. The opening up of this route would not only confer an immense benefit on the last-mentioned place, but would tend gi'eatly to develope the natural resources of the country through which it passes, which are evidently very great. The climate is by no means so severe as might be expected from the latitude, herds of buflalo >)eing found as far north as parallel 60". Indian corn ripens on the Saskatchewan. The rivei-s are free from ice on the beginning of May ; wheat sown shortly after in the valley of the Red River may be gathered in the month of August. In addition to these natui-al advantages of soil and climate, gold is known to exist in the valley of the Saskatchewan, as well as in that of the Athabasca." 'fhe Eiuploymcut of the People and the Capital of G reat Britain, a letter from Major Robert L'armichael Sniyth, to his friend the author of the Cloekinaker, 1849, p. 16. * * " One view of the map of the world will show that the proposed terminus of the Atlantic and Pacific P.ailway, taken as a centre, would bring new Zea- land, New South Wales, in fiict, Australia, New Guinea, Borneo, Canton, Pekin, all within fifty days sail of that point ; and taking the Sandwich Islands as a centre point, (where there is a fine harbor, and where a depot of coals might be established), which would be reached in ten days, all the above-named places would be brought within twenty ilays for steam navigation, other points, such as the Friendly Islands, &.c., might be selected for further depots of coal. Again, from the termiims of the proposed railway the mails from England could be despatched to all the before-mentioned places. '■' * Last, though not least, of all, this railway route across the continent of North America would ensure to England at all times a free communication with her East India possessions. * * * The proposed line across the continent of America would be within our own dominions, and would not oblige us to interfere or meddle with any continental wars to enjoy its free use. mcnt of this national undertaking." No time ought to be lost in the commence- Jbid, p. 20. * * * " It appears to me impossible that such a powerful and wealthy company as the Hudson's Bay, such magiiiticent colonies as our North American Provinces, and such a power as Great Britain, can balance for one moment in their minds whether loss or profit must attend the undertakmg and completion of such a railway." I'he Dominion at the West. By A. C. Anderson, J. P., }ip. 69-70. * * * " With refei'ence to the commerce of the East, if it bo not para- doxical to term that the East which wo are now approaching from the contrary 87 ■^ direction — the following consideration may be noted. Assuming Yokohama, m .ipan. for « starting point, the direct distance to Esquimalt may be taken, in round nuinbei-s, at about 4,200 geographical miles ; equal to about a month's voyage of a sailing vessel. Canton is {)robably about a fortnight farther, in point of time. Measured acjoss the map, San Francisco may l)e regaixled as equidistant. The actual distance necessary to V>e traversed by a sailing vessel in order to reach that jjort is, howevei', considerably groatei- ; as will appear from the following remarks which I find quoted from a recognised authority of the liighest standing — Professor Maury, of Washington. 'Tlie trade winds place Vancouver Island on the wayside of the road from China and Japan to San Francisco so completely, that a sailing vessel trading under canvas to the latter place, would take the same route as if she Avere bound for Vancouver Island. So that all return cargoes would naturally come there in order to save two or three weeks, l)esides risk and expense.' Hence it is manifest that the Canadian Pacific Railway, terminating at Esquimalt — and in a minor degi'ee the projected Northern Pacific Railway, owing to the perversities of the inland navigation necessary to resich its proposed terminus — would ])ossess a great advantage over the line, now in operation, from San Francisco to New York. The last- named port, moreover — about equidistant from Liverpool or London with Montreal — is considerably farther than Halifax, to which point it would be necessiuy to extend the transport during the period of closed-navigation of the St. Lawrence. This necessity would involve a farther land-transport of 482 miles, by the Intercolonial Railway now in operation : but then the shipping point on the Atlantic would be some five hundred miles neai'er to England than is New York. Hence it is obvious that the route now under [U'ocess of survey, if the foregoing estimates be nearly correct, presents the advantage, as from China to England, of some seven hundred miles over the projected Northern Pacific Railway ; and, under l.he consideration advanced by Professor Maury, of more than a thousand over the present route by San Francisco." Snow Fall. The Dunilnioii at the ]Vest, By Alex, C. Andernon, J. P., pji. GG-7. " The Pass by the heads of the Miette and the Eraser is so gi-adual of ascent, with so few obstacles worthy of consideration, that it may be characterized jvlmost as a natui-al road. Its shortness and directness with regard to the probable terminus on the Pacific Coast, give it moreover an advantage over any other line of approach : and although the depth of snow at the summit, dunng winter, is much greater than I have seen gravely stated, there is far less than by any other Pass with which I am acquainted, either from personal observation or report. The snow, too, through the eflects of certain natural phenomena which he'*e prevail, and for which I do not profess to account, becomes, more compacted, consequently does not drift in an equal degree, and is therefore in all respects more manageable than elsewhere. The importance of this considemtion is material ; bearing in mind that the stopjiages upon the Union I'acific Railway (hiring the past winter arose chiefly from drift. " It is a curious fact that, in the valley of the Athabasca, ujjou this line of transit, for a distance of thirty miles or mbi-e both above and below Jasper House, the snow never accumulates. There is constant grass : and the large herds of hoi-ses formerly kei)t there by the Hudson's Bay Company, for transport over the mountains, wintered there, fat, upon the natural pasture. Crossing by this Pass many yeai-s ago, on his way from the Saskatchewan, the writer found, in the month of January during a winter of almost iniexampled severity, that the snow liad entirely disappeared from the immediate banks of the river, at the mouth of the Cmnberry Fork, near T6te Jaune Cache ; and, for a distance of some forty miles down the Fra.ser, the ice was perfectly denuded of snow. A wai'm wind ])revailed, accompanied at intervals by a gentle rain. It could only be 1^' m IB m m m ^^^wp* 88 inferred that this warm current, extending through the Pass, exercised a modifying influence there; and, spreading afterwards through the Jasper's Valley, produced the eJBTects noted. As these effects, however, are known to be constant in the latter-named locality, we may infer that the same cause is likewise constant. I may remark, passingly, that similar effects are also produced in a markod degnn* in oMior parts of Uritish Columbia." Building Stone. N^oti'S ref/ardliiff the Stone quarrij at Xanainio. From the Vicforla, Colmiint" Newspaper, — August, 1872. r. /., " RnH^h " Nanaimo is endowed with greater natural wealth than perhaps, any other jiarfc of the wide Dominion of Canada. Her coal measures already opened formed the subject of a recent article. Her coal stores still locked might fill a book. In these practically inexhaustible stores Nanaimo possesses a power which must compel commerce and manu- facture to kneel at her feet. But Nanaimo has a mine of wealth of a different kind — tho Newcastle Stone Quany. This quany has been worked for upwards of two years, and yet it may be said to be scarcely opened. Here are several square miles of a continuous formation xjf the best free-stone to be found anywhere on the coast. No more conclusive evidence of the superiority of this stone need be sought than the fact that the United States Mint at San Francisco is made of it. The mint cost considerably over a million and a half, and absorbed eight thousand tons of the Newcastle stone. The introduction of ^ this stone for so important a purjwse naturally aroused a certain amount of local jealousy and brought out some international prejudice. The consequence was that the stone was subjected to a rather more severe test than would otherwise have been the case. It is gratifying to leaiii tliat the United States Inspector has, in his recent final report, given the ston« the highest character. To possess a stone quarry so superior in every respect as to command the patreaage of San Francisco and overcome the prejudices of the Great Republic is something of which Nanaimo may justly be proud. We have said that the San Francisco Mint took eight thousand tons of this stone. In addition to this it took a large quantity of flagging-stone for court-yard, side-walks, and cellar. In the eight thousand tons were some pieces deserving of specific notice. There were six columns, twenty-eight feet long, by four feet two inches square. These columns were faultless throughout. There were two stones for comer pediments fifteen tons each, and two key stones of fom-teen tons each. One circumstance has tended seriously to lessen the profits of the quarry. Every stone going to make up the eight thousand tons for the mint has been of specific dimensions ; and in quarrying to till the order a gi-eat deal of such stone as would be used for smaller buildings or for rubble masonry has gone to waste owing to there being no demand for it. Of this waste stone there has been enough to realize fifty thousand dollars in a market presenting a local demand for it. And yet it has not yielded fifty cents. Nay, to remove it out oLthe way has cost thousands of dollars. We have said that the quarry is scarcely fairly oi^ened. The last cargo of stone sent to San Fi-ancisco has been pronounced of a superior quality to that previously sent. It is well underetood that the quality of the stone improves as you go in. The quarry has now an excellent and carefully prepared 'face' on it, from which stone may be taken superior in point of quality to any yet quarried, and of almost any conceivable dimensions. Columns fifty feet long (or one himdred if necessjiry) by four and a half feet thick can be supplied, without flaw or fault." 89 APPENDIX TO nTAPTEP V [Tlio t'(>rt'i^i)iiii^ extiMCts from iiidopoiidont autlioritit's rt'Iating to tlic P»i'itisli ('oliiiiiltiii soction <,'ivo but a mojii^ro and somewliut uusatistUctorv description of tlic foimtiy. It liius been tlicroforo tliouylit l>ottor to print iis an api)endixtlif'prineipal portions of the n'ports of Marcus Smith, Esq., Chief Engineer in British Columbia, of his oi>erations during tho years 1874-5. These reports, however, are not conclusive in regard to the country spoken of as the plateau between Fort George and the Cascade Range, as it will be ol)served that that country was but partially surveyed during these yeai's. The survey is now nearly completed, and will no doubt show a very coixsidorablc modification of the grades and engineering difhculties as developed in 1874-.").] Ufport iif }[tirrn.-t SmiUi, K.i