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31st CoN>:jREsa,
1st Session,

[HO. OF REPS.]

Ex. Doc.
No. 51.

PEMBINA SETTLEMENT.

LETTER

FROM

THE SECRETARY OF WAR,

TRANSMITTING

Report of Major Wood, relative to his expedition^to Pembina Settlement
and the condition of ajfairs on the North-Wcstei*n frontier of the '

'1 erritory of Minnesota.

March 19, 1850.
Referred to the Committee on Military Aflaiu, and ordered to be printed.

Wak Department,
„ - , , , Washington^ F^b. 25, 1850.

biR : 1 have the honor to transmit herewith the report i f iVlajor Woods
(he officer of the Array despatched to Perabina settlement, or to the Red
nver of the North, under the orders of the Secretary of War, in the sum-
mer of 1849, with such other documents relating to'said expedition as are
m possession of this Department, tendinf to show the condition of affairs
on the north-western frontier of the territory of Minnesota, in answer to a
resolution of the House of Representatives of the 13th instant.

The report of Brevet Capt. John Pope, of the Topographical Corps is
daily expected and when obtained will be laid before you. The delay at
tending the report of Capt. Pope, it is alleged, has arisen from affliction
in his family.

I have the honor to be, very respectfully, your obed't serv't,

GEORGE W. CRAWFORD,

„ -T « Secretary of War.

Hon. Howell Cobb, "^

Speaker of tlie House .of Reps.

Adjutant General^s Offtck,
„ Washington, Jlpril 18th, 1849.

^TR: It is proposed to establish a new military post on or near the Red river
of the North and at a distance from Fort Gaines not exceeding 200 miles,
lor this purpose it is necessary to make a military examination of that
country. You are assigned to this duty, which you will proceed to exe-
cute as soon after the receipt of these orders as may be practicable. The
military force under your command on the expedition will be the company
ot Dragoons (D) now at Fort Snelling and destined for the garrison of
lort Gaines. You will proceed to the region of the Red river of the North
by the way of Fort Gaines or such other route as you may deem best, and

t^<c

Doc. No. 51.

on the completion of this duty you will return to your proper station. You
will extend the examination as far north as the boundary of the U. States,
Hiul report to this ofhce all the information you may be able to collect in
itgard to the best location of a military post in that region, in respect of
healtli, subsistence, facilities of building and access, and all other advan-
tages which in your judgment and experience will suggest.

The establishment of this post, as all other military posts in the Indian
country, being witu a view to our Indian relations, you will also collect
aud report all the information you can obtain of the number, character and
habits of the Indians in that region, their means of subsistence, their dis-
jtosition towards the United States, and the influence exerted on them by
the Hudson's Bay Company by trade, presents or otherwise.

It is not doubted that the company of dragoons assigned to your com-
mand for this expedition "s a sufficient military escort ; but at our distance
from that remote frontier and from the best means of information, the ques-
lion must be committed to your judgment. If you shall be of the opinion
from your knowledge of the state of the Indian tribes in that country, that
llie expedition cannot safely bo undertaken with the force assigned you,
you will delay your march and report forthwith to this office for further in-
structions.

A medical officer and officer of Topographical Engineers will be ordered
1o report to you. You will transmit such topographical reports and maps
as the nature of your march may enable the topographical officer to prepare.

A copy of the letter of the Secretary of the Interior to the Secretary of
War, in consequence of which this expedition has been ordered, is herewith
sent you, that you may better compreh':^nd the objects the government have
ill contemplation in that country.

It is unnecessary to direct your attention to the importance of cultivating
a good feeling on the part of the Indians you may meet towards the United
States, and of impressing upon them the necessity of peace araong them-
selves.

Respectfullv,
(Signed) ' R. JONES,

Adft Gewl.
Jlvt. Maj. Samuel Woods,

dipt, (ith Infantry, Fort SneMing, Iowa.

Departmknt of Tur, Interior,

Washington, 4th April, 1849.

Siu : I have the honor to submit for your consideration a letter of the 3d
iu^t. from the Commissioner of Indian Affiiirs, with the copies of papers
lliurein transmitted, in relation to the present condition of our Indian af-
J.iirs on the Upper iMississip[)i and near the line between our territory and
tiiat of the British Government, as deserving early attention.

The develoj)ments therein mad(! apj)ear to be such as to render it expedient
tliat some measures should be adopted to correct the evils which must ne-
cessarily grow out of the present state of things in that region, not only
with a view to ihe peace and safety of our own citizens, but to protect the
Iiiiiians from future suffering, as well as prevent border difficulties.

I. pon consideration it appears to me that the most certain method to
remedy the present and prevent anticipated evils, would be to cause a
treaty tn be made with a view of jiurchasing a moderate: portion of the

Doc. No. 51.

Indian country adjacent to our boundary line, and upon the Red river of
the North, and thereby open the country to agricultural settlement, for
which It IS represented to be well adapted, and place withinour own limits
a body of citizens ready, not only to observe our laws respecting inter-
course with the Indians, but willing and able to prevent any violations of
them or incursions into our territory by those connected with the British
settlements north of the boundary.

As, however, the formation of such a settlement might be the work of
three or four years, I am of opinion that the establislfment of a military
post at some suitable point near the line, at an early day, would greatly
tend, in the mean while, to accomplish the objects which are deemed im-
portant.

By making a purchase from the Indians, they would necessarily be
brought under the more immediate control and influence of our agents, and
becoming more dependent upon them, would be much more easily con-
trolled, while the influence now exercised over them by the agents of the
Hudson Bay Company would be proportionately decreased.

(Signed) '' ''t. EWING,

SccrctdTVt
To the President .,

Of the United Stales,

Department of the Interior,
„ ^, , Officeof Indian Affairs, .'ipril 3,1849.

SIR : 1 have the honor to submit herewith, for your information and
consideration, copies of a report and accompanying papers, recently re-
ceived from J. E. Fletcher, Esq., Indian Agent on the Upper Missouri, in
relation to the state of affairs on our north-western boundary line in the
vicinity of the Red river of the North, which would seem to require some
attention from our government, in order to prevent ir'ustice being done to
our citizens engaged in trade with the Indians, by unlawful and injurious
interference of British subjects, and to put a stop to our Indians being
supplied with ardent spirits, and the great destruction of the game, by
persons from the British side of the line. The great and wanton destruc-
tion of the buffalo, it is known, is becoming a serious evil, and has already
caused much discontent among our Indians, leading in one or two in-
stances to the murder of persons unlawfully on our side of the line.
These buffalo are almost the only means of subsistence for some fifty or
sixty thousand Indians in that region and the Upper Missouri. They are
rapidly diminishing in numbers, and their range becoming more and more
circumscribed, and they must soon disappear unless some means be
adopted to prevent their great annual and unnecessary destruction by
other jjcrsons than our Indians. Tlieir rapid decrease and more circum-
scribed range, must in a few years bring the tribes in that quarter into
comj)etition for them, \vhich will lead \o sanguinary and exterminating
wars, or cause those tribes or some of them to preripi'tato themselves upon
our trontier Indians, and our advanced settlements, in order to procure the
means of subsistence.

For the protection of British citizens and the preservation of peace and

;,' '• I ■L'ii liivu suit; \n tut; jluc, Ijtic

13 a lunrsidcrablc Military Post

on the Red river of the North, not far from the line, at which there was

Doc. No. 51.

not long since, and probably is now, a force of about four hundred men ;
and the subject herein submitted would seem to involve the question of
the expediency and propriety of a post on our side for similar purposes.
I have the honor to be, very respectfully your obedient servant,
(Signed) 'WILLIAM MEDILL,

Commissioner of Indian AJfairs.
Hon. Thomas Ewing,

Secretary of the Interior.

St. Peters,
Winnebago Agency, February 12, 1849.
Sir : In obedience to instructions contained in your letter of 26th May,
1848, I have availed myself of my position to ascertain the facts " in
relation to the intercourse said to be carried on between the British trading
posts and population on the Red river of the North and in that vicinity
and our frontier settlements and the ntermediate Indian tribes. From the
information obtained, I am convinced that erdent spirit has for several
years past, been introduced into the country occupied by Indians south of
our Northern boundary line, by subjects of the British government and by
them disposed of to the Indians. The statement of Mr. Bcaulieu here-
with transmitted, proves the existence of the traffic in September Inst.
Mr. Rice's letter, enclosed herewith, also contains important information
on the subject. I have conversed with several gentlemen of intelligence
Avho are acquainted with the community in the neighborhood of the Red
river of the North, and some of tliem residents there; they all confirm
the fact that ardent spirit is every year introduced among the Indians
within our limits in that section of the country, by British subjects. With
reo-ard to the extent of this traffic, I have been unable to obtain definite
and satisfactory information. From the nature of the trade it is very dilTi-
cult, if not impossible to ascertain the amount of capital employed in it ;
the quantity of liquoi sold or disposed of to the Indians. Menengaged
in a traffic in violation of law do not exhibit a manifesto. I was informed
last summer, by Mr. Norman W. Kittson, a licensed trader residing at
Pembina, who has four trading posts on or near our northern boundary
line, that the amount of ardent spirits then vended by Briiish settlers to
the Indians within our boundaries on that frontier, was not so great as
formerly. I have recently had information that Mr. Kittson has written
to a gentleman at St. Peters that the traders of the Hudson Bay Company
have during a few months past been engaged somewhat extensively in in-
troducing liquor among the Indians within our limits. (I requested to see
Mr. Kittson's letter and was told that it had been forwarded to Mr. Sibley
at Washington. I presume the Department had come in possession of the
infoi-mation contained in it.) The object which the British traders have
in supplying the Indians with ardent spirits, is to break down the Ameri-
can traders. They annoy and discommode our traders by purcliasing with
whisky all the surplus provisions the Indians have to dispose of; but
they injure our traders most by preventing them from obtaining furs.
While the Indians can ol)lain liquor, they will not hunt, and having no
money, nothing can be made out of trade with them.

From the most authentic information I can obtain on the subject, I con-
clude that about twenty thousand buffalo are killed annually within the
country occupied by the Sioux and Chippewa Indians south of our northern

Doc. No. 51. 5

boundary, by half breeds from the British side of the line. Mr. Kittson
estimates the population of Red river within the British territory at six
thousand, and that one-third of this population subsist byhuntinfr buffalo
on the American side of the line. The destruction of the buffalo is a
heavy tax on our Indians, particularly the Sioux. It is not strange that
quarrels have occasionally arisen on account of this trespass; they would
undoubtedly have been much more frequent but from the fact that the
half breeds go on their bufflilo hunts in parties sufficiently strong to protect
themselves.

With reference to attempts mside by British subjects to alienate and
disaffect the Indians within our limits, towards our government, I am in
possession of no information more definite than that contained in Mr.
Rico's letter. Neither am I in possession of any facts that go to prove
that the British government have, lately, done or sanctioned, directly,
ought to excite or prejudice the Indians, within our borders, against our
governinent. It may, perhaps, be just grounds for remonstrance against
the British government, that its subjects are grc;,sly violating our laws by
introducing ardent spirits among our Indians, and by holding councils
with these Indians for the purpose of prejudicing them against our govern-
ment, and against the system of trade provided or sanctioned by our
government for their benefit.

Your honor saw fit to instruct me to recommend to the department
such measures as I might consider advisable to be adopted, to put a stop to
evils arising from the existing state of affairs on our northern frontier.
While I duly appreciate the honor of being consulted in referc-nce to this
important subject, I find difficulty in deciding how to discharge tlie duty
assigned me. There are some evils which, owing to the circumstances
attending them, seem not to justify the application of an adequate remedy.
Presuming on the continuance of our present amicable relations with the
British government, so long as tiie Indians on our northern frontier con-
tinue pence. d)ly disposed toward us, the occasional violation of our trade
and intercourse law among bands with whom we have no special treaty
relations, and the protection of the small amount of licensed trade carried
on by our citizens there, would not seem to warrant the heavy expenditure
necessary to be incurreil by our government in order to enforce, on that
extreme frontier, a rigid observance of our laws regulating trade and inter-
course with the Indian tribes ; but a careful examination of the subject in
all its bearings, leads to a dili'erent conclusion. It is considered the true
policy of a government to provide against adverse contingencies, liable at
any time to arise. The military force to which the protection of this
frontier is assigned, is not sufficiently strong. In the event of a hostile
movement on the part of the Indian's, the citizens living on this frontier
would be exposed to great danger and suffering; and in tiie event of a
war with Mnglaiid, it is bclievecl thrit the influence acquired and now held
over a consi(lerable portion of the Indians on our northern frontier, by the
Hudson Bay Company, principally by means of a monopoly of trade with
them, Would enable the British Governinent to enlist these Indians as
allies against us. It may be saiil that these events are not likely to
hapjien ; still the liability exists, and prudence dictates that it should be
guarded against in lime. The jirincipal arti'-lcs furnished in trade with
our northern Indians, are of British manufacture: exemption from duty on
these nrliclcs, gives the Hudson Bay Company a ^ " " "

,\,„

,.N-

Doc. No. 51.

our citizens engaj^ed in trade wilh these Indians. A drawback on the
duty paid by our citizens on goods for the Indian trade and taken north of
a given line, would remedy the inequality now existing between our
traders on the frontier and that company ; but this remedy would be liable
to abuse, and its adoption would, at best, be of doubtful expediency. Still
it is important that our licensed traders among the Indian tribes on our
northern frontier should be sustained, and especially important that they
should be sustained among those tribes and bands with wdiom our govern-
ment has no treaty relations. It would evidently be both just and sound
policy, for our government to afford to its citizens who are engaged in this
trade the protection they ask, namely, protection against British rum, and
British smugglers.

In view of existing evils, and in view of still greater eviis liable to arise
on our northern frontier, I would respectfully submit to the Department,
that in my opinion the most judicious measure that can be adopted to put
a stop to these evils and preserve peace on said frontier, would be for our
government to establish a military post at some suitable point in the
neighborhood of the Red river of the North, and near our northern line,
sufficiently strong to enforce obedience to our trade and intercourse laws,
and to overarve the Indians and keep them under proper subjection to our
government ; and also to prevent the desolating wars which frequently
are among the Indians themselves. In connection with this measure, I
think the plan suggested by Mr. Rice, in his letter, for putting a stop to
the trespass committed on the lands of the Sioux and Chippewa Indians
by British subjects, is worthy of consideration. The country bordering on
Red river is represented, by those who have traveled there, to be desirable,
the soil good, ind well adapted to agricultural purposes. In case our
government should purchase of the Indians a portion of that country, and
throw it open for settlement, it is believed that a majority of the half-breeds
now living within the British limits would emigrate south of the linf, and
place themselves under the protection and laws of the United States, nnd
would form an eflicient auxiliary for the protection of our frontier. Some
of our citizens would emigrate there, and a military post could be supplied
then with forage and provi"' 'ns at a moderate expense. Said country, if
purchased, would I suppose i -impose a part of Alinnesota Territory, and
would occasion but a trilling additional expense annually to our govern-
ment.

" In reference to the extent to which the intercourse of the British
settlers north of us with our citizens through the Indian country should be
permitted, and the restrictions under and mode by which it should be car-
ried on," I have to say that, so far as I have been able to ascertain, this
intercourse through the Indian country with our citizens in this section,
say at Crow Wing, St. Peters, St. Pauls and the commercial towns south
of St. Pauls on the Mississippi, has not been carried on to any great
extent; and that, in my opinion, this intercourse, if conducted in strict
conformity with existing laws and regulations, in time of peace is not
objectionable, and may safely be permitted. The pern\ission granted to
foreigners to travel in and through the Indian country, is liable to abuse,
and has in some instances been abused in this section of the Indian country.
A considerable quantity of whisky was, in the summer of 1847, taken
from St. Pauls through the Indian country to Red river. A man by the
name of Wells, I am informed, took throuofh the Indian countrv that

Doc. No. 51. 7

season, some twenty barrels of this article. A proper vigilance on the
part of the Indian Agent at St. Peters, and on the part of the officers at
Fort Snelling, would have detected and punished this violation of law.
It is believed that very little if any ardent spirit has been taken through
the Indian country the past season. I have examined most of the loads'of
goods and provisions that have passed through the country to Red river.
The position of tlie officers at Fort Snelling and Fort Marcy, and the
position of the Indian Agent at this place, with the means of information
always at command, will, with due diligence and the exercise of a sound
discretion, always enable them to restrict the intercourse of British sub-
jects and other foreigners, through this section of the Indian country,
within proper limits. If a military post\should be established near our
northern boundary on Red river, the officer in command there would be
able to prevent the introduction of contraband articles, and the ingress of
improper persons from the north. I consider that the existing law con-
tains all that is necessary in relation to the intercourse of foreigners
through the Indian country. I have long been of the opinion that the
protection of the Indians requires some additional restrictions relative to
the privilege allowed our citizens to travel in and through the Indian
country. My views on this subject were briefly submitted in my report
ofethof October, 1847.

_ The foregoing is the result of the limited investigation which I have
hitherto been able to give this subject, and is respectfully submitted to the
consideration of the Department.

I have the honor to be very respectfully. Sir, your obedient servant,
(Signed) J. E. FLETCHER, Indimi Afrent.

Hon. William Medill,
Commissioner- of Indian Jljfairs, Washington, I). C.

I, the undersigned, of Crow- wing river. Upper Mississippi river, doth
say, that in the summer of 1848 I was employed as Assistant Agent in tlie
corps of the United States Geologist, exploring the valleys west of the
Mississippi river, as far north to the boundary line. That on the fifth day
of September last we landed at the S. W. end of Craine Lake Portage, on
the American shore, being about 18 or 20 miles from the boundary line.
Here I found a party of 5 men belonging to the Hudson Bay Company,
peddling out liquor to the Indians in exchange for rice, and I saw four
drunken Indians on the premises ; I also furnished money to one of our
men to buy liquor. After a long conversation Avith Francois Mainville,
the clerk, he asked me to take a dram of good rum with him. I accepted
the offer, and took a glass of good rum, and left him.

Saint Peters, January 11, 1849. (Signed) BAZIL H. BEAULIEU.

Bazil H. Beaulieu made oath before me to the truth of the above state-
ment. — January 12, 1849.

(Signed) J. E. FLETCHER, Indian Agent.

Long Prairie, 30//i ./You. 1848.

Sir : In answer to your inquiries of the 15th inst., I beg to state that

the inhabitants residing north of the 49^ pay no attention to the laws of

our government. Last summer the agents of the Hudson's Bay Company

_at Rainy Lake, assembled the Indians residing on the American side (and

Doc. No. 51.

near the line) and made them presents ; at the same time requested them
to use their influence to prevent Americans from sending goods into the
country. To this the Indians agreed, and a delegation of them visited my
agent at Vermillion lake and requested him to inform me not again to
send goods into their country. They were told by the agents of the Hud-
son's Bay Company that our government sent traders among them for tho
purpose of inducing them to sell their lands. 1 sent the Indians word
that I should again send not only to Vermillion but to Rainy Lake, which
promise I have kept, but should not be surprised if my post at the latter
place should be destroyed. As soon as the agents of the H. B. Co. found
that I was determined to prosecute the trade, they brought a large quantity
of ardent spirits to their depot at Rainy lake, and at the time the Indians
were gathering their last rice crop, they sent a quantity of liquor within
our boundary and gave to our Indians in exchange for rice. I have posi-
tive proof of this. It is impossible to take provisions to those posts, and
the traders and their employees are compelled to live on wild rice and fish-
the rice they purchase from the Indians. The object of the company was
to secure all of the surplus rice so that my men would be compelled to
abandon the country. They well know that they can, with the advantage
of whisky, break down any opposition. At the above mentioned posts the
trade to them is not very valuable, but their object is to prevent our citizens
from Americanizing the natives, and also to keep them out of the country
that they may monopolize the trade ; for when they are opposed on the
line, goods are sold low, and high prices paid for furs, the news of which
spreads far into the interior and dissatisfies their Indians north for hundreds
ot miles. Again, they do not wish their Indians to become acquainted
with the manner in which our government deals with its Indians, for the
illiberal policy pursued by the British government (or the H. B. Co.) when
compared with the liberal policy pursued by our government, and made
known to those north of the line, cannot but dissatisfy them and incline
them to look forward to the dcy when they will come under our protection,
i he British traders have and still do make presents to our Indians but
were it not for the high duties we have to pav on all of our imported goods,
we could carry on a successful trade on the line, and not an Indian in the
vicinity but would be ashamed to be seen with a British flag or a British
medal. °

On Red river of the North, the half-breeds are very numerous; some
our thousand men have adopted the civilized mode of living in part, many
have been partially educated, and a few have been fully educated. Thev
have good farms and raise large quantities of cattle, sheep and swine. The
annual productions of the country, cattle, horses, sheep, swine, wheat,
flax, oats, corn potatoes, &c., &c., I have taken great pains to ascertain
and from a Catholic priest living there and other intelligent persons, I have
obtained correct information of the quantity of each of the above articles,
and the amount of the value of each as paid by the Hudson's Bay Co
and the Quarter-master and Commissary at Fort Gary. Some of their
catt e they take to Fort Snelling to sell. There is also a large number of
bcoch, English and Canadian farmers in what is called Lord Selkirk's
settlement. Ihe half-breeds (nearly all) cross the line twice a year for
the purpose of hunting buffalo. Last spring a party with twelve hundred
car s went in a body south of Devil's lake. The buffalo they destroyed
by the thousands, not for the hides, but for the meat, tallow and tongues.

Ar-«**

\\ \

^<^ ■' . ■-, •

Doc. No. 51.

The meat they dry and pound up fino and enclose it in a skin sack and
then pour the melted tallow upon it, which will keep for years in this way
and IS the means of enabling them to put a great quantity of nutriment in
a small space. When so prepared it is taken to tiie Iludscjn's Bay depot
and there disposed of to supply their northern posts. Last summer the
halt-breeds brought a large quantity to St. Peters and also to the mouth of
the Crow Wing river; I purchased several thousand pounds. The Sioux
Indians with justice complain of the encroachment of the half-breeds upon
their lands and of their destroying and driving out of the country the only
an:mal they have to subsist upon; in fact it has led to severaroutbreaks
and will soon unless checked lead to serious trouble. The half-breeds
assert that they cannot live without hunting the buffalo • for the Hudson's
13ay Co. do not pay them half price for their produce. They say that,
unless permitted to cross the line and become American citizens and have
en American market for their produce and enjoy the benefits of American
citizens, that they will be compelled to encroach upon the rights of our
Indians ; and the only Avay that it can be stopped, irt my opinion, is, for
our government to purchase a country on the Red river, south of the line,
and per-nit said half-breeds and others to remove to it, and have the benefit
of a southern market. If this could be done, and should difficulty arise
between the British and American governments, a force would ever be
lound ready and sufficiently strong to carry the stars and stripes to York
factory and supplant the cross of St. George between the 49" and Hud-
son's Bay.

As It is, by compulsion they are British subjects, and our government
reaps no benefit from them, but, on the contrary, is and will he mudi an-
noyed so long as matters remain as they are. Any further information
that J can furnish I will do with pl(>asure.

Very respectfully, your obed't serv't,
(Signed)' 111,^x^1

Cen'l J. E. FLETCiiKn,

U. S. Indian Afrcnt.

HENRY M. RICE.

Sir
ral's oin

Fort Snklling, jNIin. T., A\>v. \Qtth. 18-19.
Tn compliance with instructions received from the Adiutimt-CJcne-

ral s offico, dated '- Washington, April 18, 1S49,'' and of whicli a lopy is
enclosed, I have the honor to submit the following, as the riMiIt of my
examination in the country of the Red river of the North, confming my-
seli a^ ,nuch as pos^il 'e to the objects contemplated bv my instructions.

i I'e country refe.-red to is not unknown nor unexplored, but has been
examined scientifically and geogri.phjcally by some of tlie most distin-
guished gentlemen of the age, and reported upon. The late venerable
ui.d world-renowned Mr. Ni'ollet, by a reference to his map and re])ort it
Will be .seen, has extended his explorations from the Missouri river to the
Shayenne river and un to " Devil's lake," near the 49tli i.arallel, and re-
lumed by IbHowirig down the ridge that bounds on the west the valley of
the \{va\ river, ai.i! not many mile' west of I' '"ail we followed in 'our
expedition last summer.

its practised eye ami /ealous devotion to science and geography enabled
him to present to the world the ])rominent features and resources of that
country.

])r. Owen, the distinguished geologist, in the service of the U. States,

Doc. No. 51.

has made nn examination of Ihe " Red river of the North," from the 49th
parallel to its sources ; many others of distinction have also lent their aid
in furnishing materials for a full knowledge of that country, so that it now
stands presentable, by maps, to a very great degree of accuracy.

The route we followed is well known and travelled every summ(>r by
large "■ trnins'' of carts from the lied river settlements. In selecting it in
preference to the route by " Crow-wing river," I was governed by"dvice
that too forcibly impressed itself on my mind to be neglected, and I deem
mysell fortunate in the information 1 received before startinf and the ex-
cellence of my guide. "

The expedition commenced its march from this post on the 6th June,
the earliest period we thought the grass sufficient for the subsistence of our
horses. It consisted of myself, in command, Dr. Sykes, Act'g Ass't Sur-
geon, 2nd Lieut. A. I). Nelson, 6tli Infantrv, Qr. lAIr. and Coin'y, and 2nd
Lieut, and Bvt. Capt. John Pope, Top. Engs. Lieut. Nelson had under
his charge a mountain howitzer and the train by which our supplies were
being transported. Lieut. Gardiner, with Company " D." 1st Dracroons,
was to meet me at Sunk ra[)ids. ""

_ Our starting was unpropitious ; the rains, commencing on the 4th, cor
tinned unintermittingly until our arrival at Sunk rapids on the 11th. The
roads were very batl and our teams liail much difficulty in reaching that
point, and my observation in that short distance tau'dit me that 1 was not
properly outfitted for the expedition. The large, he^ivy wagons were not
suita ) e for the roads or country, and I directed the Quarter-master, if
possible, to hire or buy light two-horse wagons, and send back the heavv
ones, lie succeeded in getting four and we sent back two iieavy wagons.
Ihe Dragoon Company, numbering 40, non-commissioned ofjicers, pri-
vates, &c., under 1st. Lieut. J. W.^T. Gardiner, and 2nd Lieut. T. F.
Castor, 1st Dragoons, arrived at Sunk Rapids on tli<i lOtli. On the 12tli,
we commenced crossing the Mississippi and in consequence of the eoniin-
ucd rams and high winds, we did not effect our passage until the 13tii.
_ On the west bank of the .Alississippi 1 made an eiicanipmeiit, where I
intendeii to remain until the weather chang<-d for the better. The rains
having fallen so steaddy and for so many days, the earth was so saturated
w^ith water, that the thickly-matted turf of the prairie would not support
the weight of the wagons. Our horses would have been pulling and
breaknig themselves down without making mueii progress on our journey.
Ihe woallu r clearing up on the afternoon of the l.'Uh, and the i4th and
l.)tli being clear, jtretty days, we resumed our march on the Kilh, with but
trilling interruptions by bad roads, for Hi,', miles, when we encamiKMl.
Uur route was en the "Red river trail," nearly .south-west, and with tho
exception ol about 2 miles, open prairie with heavy bo.liesof timber close
uy on either hand. Our encampment was on a, little stream called " Cold-
water creek, ' formed by little springs breaking out from its banks. The
^vater as c ear and coM as the most thirsty coiihl wish. This stream wo
had to bridge or causeway on both sides for twenty or thirty yards, 'i'lio
trains Irom Red river cross such places by tlirowing down grass or
brush and tli(> ox and cart pass where horses an.l wagons cannot.

Ihere are nuinberlt-ss pjuees on this route <:«!li'!l " '!'i.!-j-.>s:-}rcn>!>Ian?e? "
and are formed by springs, the water running from tln'm over a bed'of
Sim,!, on which a vegrlable mould has been deposited until in some places
it IS found three or more feet deep.

Doc. No. 51.

iOth

The water running underneath keeps the superincumbent mass moist
and unstable, so much so that it can be sometimes shaken for ten or fifteen
feet around, and is always miry.

From this point we continued our route considerably south of west, and
close upon the bank of Sunk river for about live miles, where the Sunk
river turns abruptly north, and we had to cross it. The river was much
swollen by the heavy rains, and was wide and deep. We launched our
ponton-wagon-beds and crossed it, and encamped on the VAresicrn bank.
Between this and Cold-water creek we had to make two bridges, and
mired dowm over the most of the way, going only five miles in two days ;
many little places detaining. us for hours, and requiring almost the constant
labor of our men in mud and water. In crossing Sunk river, some twenty
of our horses and mules got away and took the road back. On this ac-
count, and to give our men and horses some rest from their toils, I con-
cluded to remain in camp a day. On the 19th a party returned for our
mules and horses, and near the Mississippi met a man bringing them back.

The country back from this point to the Mississippi's heavily timbered,
with patches of prairie. The road carries us out of the direction, following
the prairie which skirts along Sunk river. The land is good, plenty of
timber and the best of water, and destined to be the most valuable portion
of this territory ; some positions are beautiful; and nearly all good for
farming purposes.

On the 20th resuming our march over a beautiful prairie, did not go far
until another " tremblante" caused us several hours' labor, and again and
again until night overtook us on the prairie, and we had to camp in the
rain, without wood, and marshes all around us. In the morning we light-
ened our loads and passed the slash in our front, sent back after our stores
and again moved forward, and with much diiliculty reached " Lake David"
near sun-set, going on this day only 3.^ miles, and the day before 8^.

The hard pulling of horses and mules had much exhausted them, and
broken our chains, &c., so much as to require repairs. We formed a camp
on ])avid lake, and had to burn coal to make the repairs necessary. We
remained at this point four ilays, hoping the prairie might improve.

\\lu'n starting, we had diiliculty in supplying ourselves with picket
ropes or laniats lor our horses, and were obliged to lake the common bed-
cords. Seeing that we would soon be without the means of securing our
horses, as these cords broke easily, J sent Lieutenant Castor and two men
back for a new supply. Our dilliculties to this point were principally with
the two heavy wagons belonging to the dragoon company, and I would
have sent them back anil waited for others, could I possibly have gotten
along without them ; they were the ponton-wagons, and were indispensably
necessary to the inarch, and did us much good service on the expedition
although they caused the men much hard labor. The light two-horse
wagon is the most suitable vehicle for transportation in this country, and
the one generally in use. The cart is much used by the Red river i)eoplo,
but for its economy. It is a simple structure, wiliiout any iron about it,
and can \n\ -nade or repaired by each indi.idual. A single ox in harness
is the moving power, and one person will drive four of them.

Lake David is narrow and long ; its length in tlie direction of norili and
south, and drains j)ir into a branch of "Crow river.'" It is about 12 miles
from the crossing of Sunk river, 'i'he horse-tly attackeil our horses here,
and continued for two days indescribably fierce, and then disappeared; we
were not again troubled with them durinVr the ivnedition.

Doc. No. 51.

ijn the 26th we commenced again our march, over bad roads, or rather,
over a bad prairie, which, althouo;h it is urdulating and high, has many
drains and level places that were Hooded with water and miry. Seven or
qight miles from Lake David, is " Lake Henrie'', resembling much the
former, and of about the same extent. They both have heavy strips of
timber on their eastern shores. The water is clear and good, and is sup-
plied by springs. 1 am told there is plenty of fish in them. The roads
continuing very bad for about eight miles further, causing us much labor,
annoyance, and delay, we crossed a branch of " Crow river." This is a
bold little stream running about south-east, with a muddy bottom on the
west side of about two hundred yards, which was very difhcult to pass.
From this point for eleven miles we had good roads, to " Lightning lake."
This much good road was obtained by following a ridge that divides two
branches of " Crow river."

The prairie was still almost impassable ; at Lightning lake we arrived
in the midst of a heavy rain, and pitched our tents on the borders of a
beautiful lake and sought the shelter of them during the continuation of
the rain and the most terrible electric explosions. The dragoon company
was still behind with the heavy wagons, but Lieutenant Gardiner's servant
being with the advance, had pitched his tent. A Hash of lightning struck
Lieutenant Gardiner's tent, shivering the tent poles into splinters, and
burnt his bedding and clothing as if a red-hot iron had passed over them.
My tent was eight or ten paces from Lieutenant Gardiner's, and Captain
Pope, Mr. Stille and myself were seated in it, and were knocked from our
seats ; but recovering from the shock, we rose and looked out, fearing
some person l.^.d been hurt, when we saw Lieutenant Nelson, whose tent
was between Lieutenant Gardiner's and mim , lying on his back, out of his
tent, in the rain, his hands and arms raised convulsively, gasping and
struggling for breath and in the last agonies of apoplexy, produced by
concussion of the brain.

Dr. Sykes was called in an instant, and by a free use of cold water
re -action was excited, his pulse revived and he gave signs of life. As
soon as he was able to bear it he was bled, and then soon recovered his
senses, to find his right side partially paralyzed ; but in the hands of our
attentive and skillful surgeon, a few weeks relieved him from thnt mis-
fortune. Nothin^ but the presence of mind and promptness of the doittor,
could possibly have resuscitated him. Life seemed to be wholly extinct
when the doctor reached him. Every person in camp was more or less
affected by the shock. The iron on "the tent-pole, particularly as a point
extends above the tent, attracts electricity as a lightning-rod.

On account of Lieutenant Nelson's health, and the l)ad condition of the
prairies, I remained in camp five days. On the lid of July we again moved
forward and went fourteen miles, and encamped on the borders of " White-
Bear lake," where we remained waiting for Lieutenant Castor, who joined
us on the 1th with our expected supplies.

White-Bear lake has an average width of about two miles, and is per-
haps eight or ten in length, nearly east and west. In its widest places,
near the shore, are many little islands all heavily timbered.

This lake is about seventy -Jim miles fiuni Sunk rapids (tuoulii of Asakis
river on the maps), and is a beautiful sheet of water, with heavy bodies of
timlier around it, alternating witii prairie, which in many jjlaces descends
in iiandsome slopes to the water's edge. The lake is fed by springs, and
is full of fish.

Doc. No. 51.

The heavily-timbered highlands, that rang'e parallel with the Missis-
sippi, and back some distance from it, edge upon this lake. The prairie
is of the best quality, being a rich mixture of vegetable mould with sand,
making a warm productive soil.

On the north of the lake ihe prairie is broken and irregular, but the
east, west, and south borders, lie handsomely for cultivation.

Back to Lightning lake (a name given by us, on account of the acci-
dent that occurred there), the country is very pretty, mostly prairie, but
probably with a sufficient quantity of woodland within reach on the north
and east.

The immediate vicinity of Lightning lake is a beautifid country for
farming. The lake is divided into two parts by a sand-bank of not more
than fifty yards in width. The westei'n portion is almost circular and about
half a mile in diameter. The eastern division is from a half to a mile in
width, and four or five in length, and drains off into Crow river. Heavy
bodies of timber lie all around this lake, wiih the exception of the west
side, where beautiful prairie spreads out in the distance. The soil is good
as could be wished, and some of the most beautiful natural meadows that
can be seen in any country. The lakes, as all lakes of any extent in this
country, are fed by springs, and have clear pure water, with sandy bottoms.
Our men caught immense quantities of fish, prim inally bass and perch of
lai

ge size.

By the use of a small seine we obtained a greater supply than the whole
command could consupie. Having observed tliat near these lakes immense
quantities of rushes sprang up most luxuriantly, I was led to suppose that
springs could be easily reached, atul digging al)out five feet tlirough a rich
mould we reached pure sand and a vein of spring water, as clear and cold
as ice.

We arrived at White-Bear lake on the 3(1 and left it on the'Gth of July,
and in the thirty days that intervened since leaving Fort Snelling, we hail,
from the Gth to the 13th both inclusive cip;/it days steady rain, from the
14th to the li)th both included six days clear, and then tico days rain, /our
clear, lico rain, fire clear, tiro rain, niic clear, foiirtrcn days rain, and .lix-
tccn clear. On the -lays marked rainy, we had' sometimes the most terrific
storms, when the rain' fell in torrents and the heavens were in a blaze of
light, and the thunder broke over us ajipalliiigly. We were driven from
the vicinity (if the timlier by the mosquitoes, and our camps on the open
prairie, with tlie quantities of iron a!)()ut our wagons, makes lliem the most
prominent object arouml ; aud when clouds heavily charged with electricity
pass near, such campt; a -e in great danger.

On the night of the -tth .July one of these storms visited us, while at White-
Bear laki', with all the liiry' the utmost power of the combined elements
can inllict. Being on the high open prairie, the thunder broke over us in
such smas/titif>' explosions, that for two liours our position was torturing
beyond (U-st'ription, many left their tents and stood out regardless of the
pelting rain, nor was this an idle or unreasonable apprehension, fin- we had
only a lew days before the thunder-bolt amor;- ^ us in its dire elTects, and

we knew our camn was the most nrobable object if there was another stray

tit'

one at leisure.

We resumed our march on the Oth of .July, but found the prairies so bad
from the dreiichinu; rains that had just fidlen, we were scarcely able lo get
along. Little drains that usually contain no water, were now almost

Doc. No. 51.

swimming, and these occurring every mile or two, witli the miry condition
of the ground, rendered our march slow and exhausting to our teams.
We made about fourteen miles and camped on what we called Pike lake,
a very pretty lake, where the men caught with their seine a great many
■pike. We saw here as at White-Bear Take a great many swan ; one was
killed here that weighed 24 pounds. It being the moulting season, they
were at our mercy. We remained in camp two days on account of the hiiTh
waters and bad condition of the prairie. °

I had ex])ccted 1o turn off more to the north for the purpose of striking
Red river, near Otter-Tail lake, but finding the difficulties on the best
route almost more than we could successfully encounter I feared to attempt
^ a route which 1 learned was worse.

On the 9th we again took up the line of march, and after going about
twelve miles over a prairie Ihat was a succession of ups and downs we
crossed the_ main bninch of the Chippewa river. It runs almost north
and south, is about fifteen yards across, has a rapid current with a rocky
bottom, and empties into the St. Peters river five or six miles below
" Lac-qui-porte." The highlands just passed over are those dividing the
waters of the Mississippi and St. Peter's rivers. After crossing the
Chippewa river, in a few hundred yards we came upon the foot of a lake
along which we continued for two or three miles and got into the midst of
many lakes separated from each other by embankments but they all have
outlets, and drain off their waters into 'the Chippewa river. Here we
saw an elk, and being the first one that cro.ssed our path, we called this
lake Elk lake. It has high and in some places bluff banks, with fine
bodies of timber around it and much more covering the highlands off to
the east. About fifteen miles farther on, we came upon another large lake,
which we called Elbow lake. A name suggested by its shape. This also
has timber around its shores. The roads 'had much improved and we got
along with fewer interruptions on these highlands.

At '' Elbow lake," we met a " war party " of Chippewa Indians, known
by the name of « Pillagers " from " Ottef-tail lake," but I shall forbear
speaking of them here as I have done of other Indians we had met with.
My object being in the first place, to give a description of our march, and
the country passed over, and then under separate heads, I shall attempt to
present an account of Indians, half-breeds, and a military reconnoissance of
the country.

About ten miles back we crossed a branch of the Tipsinah, or Pomme-
de-terre River. It runs nearly .south, and emi)ties into the St. Peters five
or six miles above " Lac-qui-porte," or '• Echo lake."

After leaving " ElI)o\v lake," and going four or five miles to a little
stream called ''Rabbit river," we met the advance of the Red river
"train of carts," about twenty-five in number, and under the charge of a
man from Selkirk, or the English settlement. They were loaded with
l)eltries and "pemmican," and on their way to St. Pauls, Minnesota Terri-
tory. The.se people buy goods at St. Pauls and Galena and take them
back to Pembina, when they await an oj)portunity and smuggle them into
the settlements on the Krirrlish side.

About ten miles farther on, we met Mr. Norinan Kittson, the afent of
the fur company of " Chotian June & Co.," established at Pembina. He
had about sixfy-Jire carts, loaded with the product of his last winter's busi
ncss m furs; going ten miles farther, we came upon Otter-Tail lake

Doc. No. 51.

condition
ur teams.
^ike lake,
eat many
; one was
ison, they
f the hic-ii

f strikinpf

the best

attempt

ng about
lowns we
ost north
li a rocky
es below
iding the
3sing the
of a lake
midst of
'all have
Here we
illed this
with fine
us off to
rge lake,
riiis also
(1 we got

3^ known
i forbear
net with,
irch, and
.tempt to
sance of

Pomme-
ters five

) a little
ed river
irge of a
cd with
a 1 ern-
ke them
lem into

:igent of
na. He

r's l)usi
ail lake

river (as it is called in this country), or Red river of the maps, where it
has a direction a little south of west. It runs through the open prairie,
with no timber to be seen in any direction, save some small scatterinc^
shrubbery growing immediately on its banks. At the ford, it has a rocky
bottom and good banks, is from two to three feet deep and some fd\v yards
wide ; we forded it easily and camped on the right bank. Mr. Kittson
returned to our camp and remained with us for the night and gave us much
information of the country we were en route for.

From our first crossing of Red river, we travelled nearly north-west,
about twenty-two miles, and struck I\ed river again, ten or" fifteen miles
below the mouth of "Bois-de-Sioux river," where it is a much larger and
finer strea-i. After ctossing it by pretty deep fording, we follo^ved it
down about four miles and made our camp, with the view of exaraininT
this point for the establishment of a military post.

_ My instructions were to select a site for a military post on the Red
river of the North, and at a distance from "Fort Gaines" not to exceed
200 miles. This position is 163 miles from Sunk rapids (mouth of
Osakis river) and nearly due west, from Fort Gaines, and perhaps
farther from the latter place than the former by any practicable route.
The position of our camp, and which I selectetl for that of a post, is
on the left bank of Red river, where it runs a little west of north.

The prairie comes \\\> to the water's edrre, and extends as far as the eye
can reach north, west, and south, with the exception of heavy strips of
timber, ^yith openings showing the prairie beyond, along Wild Rice
river, which is abovt three miles to the west, running north. Red river
makes a bend in our front, forming almost an island on the right bank, thi.:'
heavily timbered, and the bends to the right and left of us on the left bank
are well timbered. I have carefully examined, with reference to the wants
of a military post, and thinkt here is a sufficiency of timber within five
miles for all the purposes it might be wished for any number of years.
The forest consists chiefiy of elni, oak, ash, haskberry, cotton wood, and
some maple, and a variety of small growth I am not familiar with. The
oak and ash are of dimensions to be made good lumber. It is to be re-
gretted that there is no stone in the country of any descri[)tion. I have
seen no stratified rock since I left the Mississ'ippi river. There is an ad-
mirable clay for brick, and sand can be had by digging for it, but lime, I
presume, cannot be had short of the Mississippi.

The prairie is very fertile, and if there is any objection to it, it is that
there is not a sufficiency of sand to give it warmth. The grass is very
luxuriant, and will be inexhaustible for hay. The water is the river water.
The acting Assistant-Surgeon reports it a healthful position.

This was the first position, or (he one highest up on the Red river,
where there was timber sufiiident for a military jjost. I would have pre-
ferred locating it higher up, for reasons that will be given when I come to
speak of Indian relations on this frontier.

This point is 88 miles from White-bear lake, anil there is but little
timber on our route over that distance. Some about Pike lake. Elk
lake, mid Elbow lake. The jir.uric gL-nendly is high and undulat-
ing, and dotted over with lakes of various dimensions, and there are some
running streams.

The immediate vicinity of Red river from our first point of crossing to
this place is low, and in wet weather, marshy. Here the banks are about

Doc. No. 51.

25 feet hi^li, and out of all danfrer from hip;h waters, and the prairie dry,
even in the wet season. It is the prettiest location in the country; but
this is not high commendation. We set up on this site a post about two
feet in diameter, and eight feet above the ground, hewn square, and cut on
it in deep letters, " 163 miles to Sunk Rapids. July 14, 1849."

On the 15th of July we resumed our march in a direction generally north-
west, and travelled nine miles over a high dry prarie to Wild Rice river,
which has a bad muddy crossing, and then eleven miles over a low marshy
prairie, and, consequently, bad roads, we struck the Shayanne river. This
river was much swollen, and had (o be ferried. A raft that Mr. Kittson
had constructed for his passage, we thought would answer for ours, with
some repairs. We hoped to be able to put the wagon with its load on it
and save the trouble of unloading; but the raft was badly constructed, and
woidd carry but little, and gave us more trouble than we should have had,
if we had commenced with our wagon-beds.

Tlie Shayenne is a rapid turbid stream, and was at that time deep, with
excellent bodies of timber along its banks. While encamped on this river,
early in the morning, our horses being picketed out and made restive by
the mosquitoes, took fright at something, broke their larriats, and twenty-
six of them left the camp at full run. A party was immediately sent after
them, and followed for ten miles, when they caught six of them. They
lost all trace of the others, and came in without them. Another party
started, and returned the next day about twelve o'clock, bringing back all
but one, which we never recovered.

Having consumed the 16th in crossing the river, we camped on the north
bank of the Shayenne where, during the night, the mosquitoes infested
our camp in clouds. Our horses were tortured, and got neither rest nor
opportunity to eat during the night.

Soon after crossing the Mississippi, the mosquitoes commenced on us,
and had gradually increased in numbers and ferocity, and had been anathe-
matized, as we thought, sufTicit-ntly for their perdition; but now they
choked down every expressior that would consign them to the shades.

It was impossible to talk wiihout inhaling them.

Starting at 12 ]M., over a level prairie on which the water stood from
two inches to two feet almost the entire way, and after going about lour-
teen miles, we reached Maple river, which Mr. Kittson had bridged ; but
the water being much higher now than when he crossed it, the bridge had
disappeared. We camped on its bank in the midst of a terrible thunder-
storm, and were honored, as the night before, by countless niimbers of
these winged insects that contemn the displeasure, and sing cheerily over
the tortures of their victims. We ferried the river, and over the marshes
again for about fd'teen miles. We came upon Rush river (Elm river of
the maps), where we encamped. Between this point and Maple river,
fifteen miles back, we had to ferry two branches, and crossed a third that
nearly s vam us.

There had been such torrents of rain about this time, that the little
branches that ordinarily furnish barely a sufficiency of water to allay the

thir'^t^ nt n trriV(>11inir trmn werf ir^"' o\»'im"'>in'T Oiir (pnin linrcoo rjt, this

point began to fail, attributable principally to the unceasing annoy;ince
of mosquitoes that did not allow them to get their rest at night, nor quietly
to feed upon the grass. At Rush river we found higher prairie, and a
little relief from the mosquitoes. We had to ferry the river. As our direc-

! prairie dry,
ciountry ; but
3t about two
?, and cut on

:9."

lerally north-
1 Rice river,
I low marshy
river. This
; Mr. Kittson
'or ours, with
ts load on it
structed, and
lid have had,

le deep, with
on this river,
de restive by
and twenty-
ily sent after
hem. They
tiother party
^ing back all

on the north
toes infested
her rest nor

enced on us,
been anathe-
it now they
e shades.

r stood from
J about lour-
bridged ; but
le bridge had
ible thunder-

niimbers of
tiheerily over

the marshes
Elm fiver of
Maple river,
[ a third that

lat the little
to allay the
inrses nt tins
y annoyiuu'.e
t, nor quietly
irairie, and a
A.S our direc-

Doc. No. 51.

tion diverged from the course of Red river, we were at this point probablv
fifteen or twenty miles distant from it, and seeing the high prairie before
us, we began to congratulate ou;^elves at the prospect of gettino- out of its
bottoms; but we found the elevation that appeared in our front only
benches, rismg fifteen or twenty feet, and then spreading out into what
are called "dead levels," covered with marshes.

About eight miles from Rush river, we came upon a little prairie stream
much swollen and deep. We diverged from our track and passed around
It, or so nearly so, that we had only some of its branches to cross, which
were iordable. On leaving Rush rivej-, we were aware that we had more
than torty miles before us of prairie, without a stick of timber, and carried
wood with us for one night's encampment.

About twenty miles from Rush river, we came upon a cluster of hills Ox
considerable elevation, and after ascending them, we could see off to the
west and south west their continuation; but in our direction, west of north-
they extended but a few miles, and a flat country was still before us
1 wenty miles farther, we struck the south branch of Goose river The
banks of this river are seventy-five or more feet in height, and in some
places perpendicular. The view from camp is a very handsome one ; the
high bluff banks bearing off in the distance, and the bottom dotted with
clumps of trees, make a beautiful contrast with the boundless extent of
prairie spreading around us in every other direction. On the mornino-
after our arrival here, we saw a herd of buffalo, gave them chase, and
killed several of them. '

I will send with this report, an account of buffalo-huntint^ on these im-
mense prairies, written by the Rev. Mr. Bclcourt, Catholic Missionary at
Jrembina. -^

About nineteen miles farther we crossed the main branch of Goose
Kiver, travelling over higher and drier prairie ; we also crossed several
little branches with abrupt high banks. These abrupt breaks on the
streams are confined to the banks; the prairie extending out from them, as
If It had been adjusted in its horizontal by a spirit-level. Goino- twenty
miles farther we struck Turtle river, and encamped on its northern
bank. It IS a small stream, running south of east, with high banks anc
some timber in its bottoms.

Our encampment was a short distance below a place which bears som
resemblance to a rude attempt at a field-work, and it is said to be a placi
made for defence by the Red river Chippewa's when they went there to
winter as was the case some years ago. This work is of rectanLnilai
orm, three sides of it having much the appearance of made embankments,
the side facing the river having none. The enclosure is about one acre in
extent, and the portion of it at the lower end is sunk ten or more fee
below the surrounding country. The elevations forming the contour are
ot sand, while the adjacent and exterior ground is a vegetable mould.
Ihe whole is now covered with vegetation, but of not so luxuriant a
growth as that surrounding it. Had I not heard stories about it I shoula
have passed It by, thinking it the uncommon and curious washin<-s of a
bluff bank by the heavy rains. "

,p J^V "'■ ^!"T ^'"'"'^ ''^■"' P^""^^^^ "^^ ^^^ '=^i""'^ ^nti Chippewas met here,
llie tMoux had come from tlie west, down the river, and encamped the
night preceding in a little wood about half-a-mile above. The Chippewa
had discovered them, and selected this .old Fort for an ambuscade, an
DOC. 51.— 2

I .-WJIW I UI' •

Doc. No. 51.

ook possession of it in the ni^ht and remained ""f ^"7;;^^, ^ij;^ l^""^
^ioux were ^vithin their reach, ^vheu a skirmish ensued,, ^'j' ;"' ^^ ^^^^^^^
Phinnewas abandoninrr their work and taking to Ihsrht. Ihe ^bioux \\ere
aWt^to one^^ Parties together did not number over ^//y.

^7.::^V^^-^ traveled over high, broken prairie, the roads
.ood cros in." Big and Little Salt rivers until the bottoms spread
Surao-ain before us, about forty miles from Turtle nver. \\ e camped on
° i.h lidc. on the prabie; we were fearful of going into the bottoms on
'ccoun ot^ the mosquitoes. These pests had become so much worse than
Jhey vere when we\llowed them to irritate and anger us, that complain s
and i' pleasure changed into merry-making and the ridiculous. Ihe
latter mn'ssion could'not be resisted when you saw your tellows in mis-
fortmie n ustriously striking out with both hands from morning till night,
td ct c y a lie to^alk foAear of ingulfing some handful or two of them,
lie sulferincrs of our horses were painful to behold, and irremedvable
We i^^ide dfvers smokes about them, which sometimes availed, but at
Sll>r mes did no good. On this night, although we were on a h^h m ge
and a strong wind was blowing, the mosquitoes were so thick, that being
Iriven ao-ainst our tents it sounded like the pattering of rain.
%: 'vere at this point within fifty miles of Pemluna, and en. d.ec i n
Wcrinnin<- to chun-e to tlie north-east, we had to descend f.om the hills,
anScr^s^eJ several" little streams all with heavy bodies of timber on their

''to^^;^Z^'i^^^^^^ we got among what^calb..

r ^n^tit^^s srtr^.£rit is-^^bi^t^j '^:^

we?e wUii" tenTiles of 'our destination, I almost despaired o -er ge^^^^^^
there Our horses were almost exhausted. 'Ihe cons ant hard pulling,
the ravnges of mosquitoes, and not being able to feed in quiet, were too

'"TLnrLieuTenant Nelson, the quarler-master forward, to pt some cads
if possible. They were obtained, and returned to our assistance and on
the 1st day of August, 1849,-having been out since the Gth of June,-xNe
Irrivcd at Pembimi, ami found the Red river and the Pembina river with
^bout twenf,/ feet rise in them, and overflowing ^^/^ir banks.

The tradin- establishment of Mr. Kittson is in the fork of Red and Pem-
oina nve? ami north of the Pembina. We left our wacjons on the south
Tnk of Pembina river, swam our horses over it, and took our stores, ice,

'''it waT witTi difTiculty that we could find dry ground sufficient for the
company to pilch their tents. The marshes allorded good grass for oat

^°Mr!' Kittson, when we met him, had kin<lly tendered us the use of his
houses; and Mr. Role<le, the gentleman left in charge ^ "S -mu ,
nobtely allorded every assistance in his power. It was matter of coi^ a
ulatio?r with us all to L'h r-.: point; and I have no ^""''t the hoi^es . ould
navo participated in ^U . -cral joy. could they have articulated an ex-

^^p:Xna(::^tl!:cSrvabout the mouth of thePembinai^^

is a low, Hat and marshy country, with large quantities oi timber along Red,

Pembina, and Tongue rivers. Red river at this point, at its ordinary stage, is

Doc. No. 51.

red until the
ended by the
; Sioux were
jr over fifty'

•ie, the roads

ttoms spread
^'e camped on
e bottoms, on
di worse than
vat complaints
iculous. The
ellows in mis-
ling till nie;ht,
r two of them,
irremediable,
vailed, but at
m a high ridge
ick, that being

our direction
from the hills,
imber on their

,vhat are called
les, over a wet
sh. When we
of ever getting
t hard pulling,
quiet, were too

» get some carts
stance ; and on
h of June,— we
bina river with

f Red and Pem-

)ns on the south
our stores, &c.,

sufficient for the
;)d n;rass for oai

s the use of his
of his business,
latter of congra-
the horses would
rticulated an ex-

a river is called,)
imber along Red,
ordinary stage, is

about one hundred and twenty yards wide, and sixteen feet deep, with banks
iromfftecn to twenty feet in heighl. I expected to fnul at this place a collec-
tion ot huts, with the appearance of a village; but Mr. Kittson's tradino-
establishment stands alone. Mr. Belcourt, the Catholic missionary, lives
about one mile lower down on the Red river, and has erected a two-story
house (intended for a Chippewa school), a chapel, and some out-houses.

lliere were many Indian lodges near, occupied by Indians and half-
breeds. The latter generally have houses; but tiicy build in the timber
along the rivers, for protection from the cold winds of winter and the
convenience of wood. They had be^en driven from them by the overflow
of the river.

It was my intention to examine the country east and west of Red river
for twenty.five or thirty miles, and I waited from the 1st to the 2Gth of
August, hoping the country would dry sufficiently for me to pass over it
but was disapi)ointed. I'lie improvement of the prairie by a few successive
clear days, a hard rain would restore to their previous impassible condition.
Knowincr tliat it would take me ten or fifteen day« to pass over the country
as I wish fi., and despairing of any improvement in the prairie, on the 14th
of August 1 started with a party for Pembina mountains, about tliirty miles
west. I traveled nearly due west for about eight miles, and found the
prairie so horribly bad that I turned back. I had a guide who has lived
in this country thirty-four years, and he selected the route I took as the
best one, and said, after seeing the condition of this route, it would be
useless to attempt any other. Our horses mired over nearly the whole of
the distance. The country east of the Red river is, much of' it, woodland ;
and I was told by every one that there was not a probability that I could
travel over it on horseback, so I had reluctantly to abandon my intention.
The people say that the last summer was an "extraordinary one, but teli
me the floods are sometimes worse than I saw them. About twenty years
ago the waters were some ten or fifteen feet higher than this last summer,
when, with the exception of the position that Mr. Belcourt's establishment
occupies, there was not a single point not covered with water. I saw
evidences of overflows, in drift wood, out on the prairies.

I visited the line, marking the 49th i)arallel. The post set up by Major
Long had rotted away, but the place is still preserved by a stake that is
firmly driven in the ground. I placed a post there and merely marked on
It " Jlugiist 14, 1849." There is a small house belonging to a half-breed,
built on the English side, within a few feet of the line.' The English Fur
Company's trading post is about tiro hundred yards tVorn the line^on their
territory, consisting of a small '• shanty," but "they now liave under erec-
tion ver> extensive buildings. The post marking the line is thought not to
be accurately on the 49lh parallel, but some two or three hundred yards
within our territory. This impression arises from statei.. ^nts said to^have
been made by Major Long, as well as English observers, and the cautious-
ness they exhibit in settling near the marked line. 1 did not attempt to
confirm or correct the position of the post placed by Major Long, for fear
of leading to greater errors. But Cajn. Pope got himself into a corres-
pondence with the chief factor of the Hudson's Bay Company in relation
to the boundary line. I forbid him as an ofiicer of the expedition corres-
ponding on that subject with any official from the other side of the line.

Soon after arriving at Pem"bina, I directed the Qr. Master, Lieut.
Nelson, to procure for our horses forage, if possible ; our work horses par-

•20

Doc. No. 51.

ticulr.rly stcnd in n

eed of it they had become weak under their hardship

ntrv, he liad to send to Fort Garey, the

Tiiere being no grain in the cou...._,., .--

Enrrlish seftbnient, sixty miles below, to obtain snch supplies as he want-
ed,'^vvhich on account of the difficulties in bringing them up the river, we
did not get until the 15th August.

The officers at Fort Garey,"^the gentlemen of the Fur Company, and the
c^olonists tendered us cordio'i invitations to visit them, andallbrded us every
facility in replenishing f)ur decreasing supplies.

The almost incessant rains and the condition of the country prevented
us from respondn.g to this politeness, and we can now only offer them our
grateful recollection of their kindness, -.ith the hope that we may in our
own country sometime have an. opportunity of reciprocating their attentions.
The soil at Pembina is a vegetable mould of a foot or two in depth, oa
a substratum of clay, and is very productive in the indigenous growth o\
the climate. The prairies are covcreil with a most luxurious growth of
grass, and the woodlands with a rank dense thicket of undergrowth and
weeds. Agricultural pursuits are rewarded by a bountiful haiwc-t, and
there is hardly a product that tne iarmer values that cannot be raised there
in abundance. I saw at Mr. Kittson's a lield of brrley and potatoes, and
at Uv. Belcourt's a garden, in which were growing all the vegetables most
prized by the borticulturist, all of luxuriant growth. The Indian corn I
saw seen.ed of a stunted growth, it being in tassel, and the stalk not more
tlian two fert high. I was told this was a peculiar kind of corn that did
not grow iiigher'aiiy where. There is no farming on our side of the line.
The h^lf-'breeds have small gardens about their huts, but the overflow
last summer drowned out or injured vegetable life in them.

In the vicinity of Fjrt Gafey, the English military post below, I am
told there are fine farms. I saw several of those farmers and had much
.-.ouversation with them. They gave ine tlie following as the average of
their crops :

Wheal, 30 to 40 bushels to the acre.
Barlev, 40 " 50
Oats," 40 " 50
Potatoes, 200 " 300
Corn does not do well, but c;in be raised in small quantities; wheat is
sown in the sjiring and gathered in the fall. Th(\\- have tried the fall-wheat
and think it will do well, but th(; former being that generally used in > le
country, it is difficult to introduce a diflerent practic". It is one of the
peculiarities of these people to discountenance every thing like diangc of
luihits, although it may come recommended by improvement.

The country cast of Red riwr is a mixture of prairie and woodland,
intersected by numero'us st.iams. Its general character, according to the
best accounts, is, that it is a good snil, well-timbered, and having plenty of
water, but in a wet season, for a time, it is impossible to travel over it or
to occupy It, from the marshy nature of the soil.

The same remarks apply to the country cast of Red river, through to
the Mississip])i, and along our line to Rainy lake and Lake Superior, even
the few hiLihla.nds •nark'^d. ihcn- coino under the sann' cntcixory.

The country ircst ot' I'.ed ri\cr is a l(;vcl marshy region back about
thirty miles to Pembina mountain, which rises into a high jicak near the
49th parallel and ranges oil' nearly south, forming the western bordt r oi
the valley of Red rivei, and connects with the liighlands extending ou*
fn-rti Lake Tr^ivers, near the head waters of the St. Pelcr's river.

u
a

Doc. No. 51.

;ir hardsbipc.

t Garey, the

as he want-

:he liver, we

laiiy, and the
•ded us every

try prevented
ffer them our
I may in our
eir attentions.
> in depth, oa
:>us growth of
>us 9:ro\vth of
lergrowth and
I harvc'-t, and
)e raised there
potatoes, and
■getables most
Indian corn I
jtalk not more
corn that did
le of the line,
the overflow

; below, I am
nd had much
Lhe average of

ties ; wheat is

the fall-wheat

ly used in < le

is one of the

like change of

and woodland,
cording to the
ivint; plenty of
ivel over it or

rer, through to
Superior, even
iry.

)n hack about

peak near the

^tcrn bordt r of

exiending ou^

river.

We left Pembina on the afternoon of the 26th of August on our return
and had lor about fifteen miles the same difficulties to contend with that
we encountered gomg out, but at this point the prairie began to improve.
There had evidently not been so much rain as at Pembina, and twenty- five
or thirty miles farther on the roads became good and we travelled without
any serious interruptions, averaging more than tioenty miles a day until we
reached Fort Snellmg, the 18th of September, 1849, making the distance
Irom Pembina to Fort Snelhng, measured coming down, 471 miles in 23^-
(lays. We were fifty-seven days going up.

On the morning of the 1st of September we found a heavy frost on the
ground, and tnis with numerous others began to affect the grass. Our
horses having to labor and travel all day became very weak by the time
we reached the Mississippi, on the 14th of September, but gettino- fbnge
at Sunk Rapids, on the Mississippi, our horses went through to FoPt Snell-
ing with ease.

\Ve were three months and twelve days out, travelled nearly a thousand
miles without forage (with the exception of a Tew days), had the worst of
roads, rivers to swnn almost daily, and the unceasino- annoyance of mos-
quitoes, and lost but one horse and one mule. The'horse got away and
could not be recovered; the mule died. On returning, we crossed the
Shayenne river, higher up than our crossing going, where it emerges from
the highlands, lhe crossing is much better. It has a sandy bottom, and
IS no. deep, from these hills i. is plainly perceptible they are a part of
the range seen in the west on our route back to Pembina.

J had prepared at Pembina a cart, knowing a wagon could n .< pass on
that rrute, lor the purpose of crossing Red river, near the mo- (h of the
Shayenne, and going by the head of the Otter-tail lake to Crow-win.r and
fort (janes, but was prevented by an accident. My desire to go on that
route arose solely from the wish to report upon it from personal observa-
tion, not doubting but that I would find it, ja-t as it had been reported to
me, impracticable for wagons." My inabiKty to go was not so much a
subject of regret, as I am confident that the best route is the one we took.
. i he accident referred to was an injury f received in my loot, while chas-
ing buffalo on the 30th of August, which confined me "to the wao-on and
crutches for hve or six days, and from uhich I have not yet encirely re-
ccovereu. •'

In the foregoing I have endeavored to condense as much as possible
from my journal a description of the countrv and march, and fear that I have
been difruse without accomplishing my object in a satisfactory manner. I
will close this portion of my report by the following extracts fr nn my
journal, made on reaching the .'Mississippi river.
_ September 14th.— Marched 21,', miles, and camped on the Mississippi
river. Here our troubles end, and right glad we were, too, once more to
see t ns magnificent river. We have been wading, swimmin..-, and plung-
ing through dirty little streams dignified with the titles of rivers, until we
began to lose the true conception of what a real river was.

The country behind us is a most sinirular one, and now to describe it is
a problem with me: but from this noint bnek to VVhite-boM.r hike, I th.ink
It a better cfMintry tha.i any I liav(; seen in the north. There i^ a -rn-ai
deal of prairie— too much— but it is an excellent soil, .md well ndapte.l to
the growth of agricultural products, and there is timber sufficient fbr farming
purposes, if economically used.

Doc. No. 51.

From White-Bear lake to Otter-Tail-lake river, there is only timber
clustering around a few lakes. The prairie is hilly and dry, and at many
points no wood can be seen. At Otter-Tail-lake nver there is no uw,
and thence to the crossin^^ of Red river, it is a marsh without a bru h
Both banks of Red river are densely covered ^vlth timber, varying in width
from half a mile to two miles, and thence to Pembina, genenjUy a tlat
marshy country, traversed by streams of the size known as branches,
airouo-h called rivers, at intervals of fifteen and twenty miles lliese
h ve mall tips of timber along their banks When we get within hfty
miles of Pembina, the country is better supplied with wood; but we are
back some twenty-five miles from Red river, and close upon the southern
ranoe of Pembina mountains. I have never seen a more luxuriant growth
of g^ass in any country. The early snows cover the grass and P^-eserve
full of nutriment sufficiently for the subsistence of horses and cattle and
the immense herds of buffalo that winter m this seemin^,ly inhospitable
climate. The horse paws away the snow. The ox and butfalo remove it
with the nose.

Crossi lo- the Mississippi river at Sank" Rapids, about one mile below the
mouth of"theWatab river, we entei the country belonging to the bioux
Indians. The Watab river is the southern boundary ot the \\ innebago
country. The country along our route to the Shayenne river ^^^^^
by the Sioux, and their right is acknowledged by other tribes with the
exception of the portion traversed between the two crossings ot Red river
The west of Red river was, and I believe is still claimed by the Sioux ;
but a lonff series of conllicts between them and the Chippewas, Lrees, ice,
have dispossessed the former and the country north oi \\.^ Shayenne river,
is now, and has been for a long period held by the ( Inpi.ewas, and the
Shayenne is tacitly acknowledged as the boundary bstween Ihem.

T'he Chippewas are in possession of the country from Lake Superior to
the Red river, and the Red river country; but they are divided into many
bands that claim and exercise an indepen.lency oi each other, llie I liip-
pewas of Lake Superior and the Mississippi river claim to be the t uppe-
wa nation, and have a chief whom the dilferent bands acknowleilge as

//V,s7 in authority. ,• i . .1 i 1 ^,.

The general term of "Pillager Chippewas" is applied to the bands oc-
cupyiuL^ the country about Otler-Tail lake, Red lake, Pembina and they
yield no obedience "to, or acknowledgement of a Imid vhnj. Ihey liave
iarticipaled in none of the treaties held with the Chippewas and have re-
ceived no annuities from the United Stales. They are a wild roving race
of i.eople, with but few wants, and these are supplivd by the country.
They know but little of the United States, and have no bonds uniting
them with our government, as other tribes have, by the o .ligati.n.s ot
treaty slnndations. Tliev live prin.ipallv by the chase, and warlike l.y
nature and habit, come oflen in cnnflicl wilh their irre.'oncilable enemies,
the Sioux, while hunting on the jilains.

The Sessitou and Yankton bands of Sioux living about l/aU.;-(pii-» oru ,
\\\.j Sin.u> hike, and Lake Travels, are a very numerous and mtractal.le
proud and adventurous race of people, who assume, m their own name and
ri-rht, to occui.v and control the immense tract of country lying about litg
SUme lake, back to the Missouri river, and up the Siiay.;nne river to
Devirs lake. Within these limits are the Plains, over which roam the

Doc. No. 51.

only timber
nd at many
s no wood,
lit a brush,
ng in width
erally a tiat
s branches,
les. These
within fifty
but we are
lie southern
•iant growth
I preserve it
1 cattle, and
inhospitable
lo remove it

le below the
) the Sioux

Winnebago
;r is claimed
es. with tlie
)f Red river.
f the Sioux ;
;, Crees, &.C.,
lyenne river,
vvas, and the
liem.

' Superior to

id into many

TheC'hip-

tlie t'hippe-
nowledge as

he bands oc-
na, and they
They have
and have re-
d rovinu; race
the country,
innds uniting
)bligati()ns of
lI warlike by
able enotuies,

d;t'-(iui-Porte,
(1 intractable,
)wn naTiic aiid
ing about Hig
cnne river to
lich roatn the

immense herds of Buffalo, that the whole north-west have a mutual inter-
est in^ and dependence on, for their subsistence. These Indians know but
little of our government, and nothing from any benefits it has bestowed
upon them. They disregard our exhortations to the habits and pursuits of
civilization. We met, between the Mississippi and White-Bear lake, a
few hunting parties of the Winnebagos, and at White-Bear lake, two par-
ties of Winneba-gos came to our camp. They were hunting, but none go
farther west for fear of falling in with the Sioux. They were desirous of
accompanying us, as they could go in safety to see the country farther
back, and get among the buifalo, but were not prepared for so long a trip.

Near Elbow laka we saw an Indian on the prairie, and stopping him to
" talk," others began to appear from cdl sides, and in a few minutes twenty-
five of them were around us. They were the Chippewas from Otter-Tail
lake. They said they were on a hunt ; but it was evident from their ap-
pearance and manner they were a war party. I asked them to follow me
into the camp, which they did, and I learned from them that a party of eight
or ten were in the advance, seeking an opportunity to retaliate on the Sioux
for the murder of a Chippewa woman, which had been committed by them
sometime before.

They were a fine-looking party of Indians; seemed to be very friendly
and glad to see us. I told them the President would be much pleased to
see the frontier quiet, and all the Indian tribes disposed to be friendly to-
ward one another. They say they act only in self-defence.

This band numbers about "fifty warriors; they are friendly with the Mis-
sissippi Chippewas, and the Winnebagos. They seem to be well pleased
with their home on Otter-Tail lake.

They say they get an abundance of game, fish, wild rice, the wild i)ota-
to, and make large quantities of maple sugar. I gave them some tobacco,
and they gave us a war-dance, and promised to return.

We saw no more Indians until we got to Pembina, where I find there
are many that regard that as their home. At that time there were but few
about, iiolh Indians and half-lireeds had heard of the approach of a mili-
tarv force, and had waited a long time at Pembina for its arrival, and not
seeing it when expected, imagined it had turned back on account of the
unfavorable season.

'I'lie most of them had gone to the plains after bulfalos. Between the
lOtli and 2()th of August tiiey began to return, and a large number of them
came to see me. I told them I wanted to see them all together, when those
that were still absent came in.

There are at)out one huiulred and fifty warriors, which would make a
total of five or six lumdred Indians thai claim to be Pembina Inihans.
'fhey are almost entirely Chipju-was; a few of them are Crees and Assin-
aboines. They were rathei- stragglers than a liand, liaving no chief or organi-
zation amongst them. They seemed aware of the advantages of some
ruling authority, and had endeavored, on several occasions, to select a
cliH'f, but the inidtitudc of aspirants for the first i)lace defeated all their
attempts at organi/.ation.

When all the hunters returned, they came to see me. There were almut
one iiundred w;;fiif>r5 ]>resrnt o\' the "Hcd ri%<T Cbipppwas. I told them I
had been sent to that country 1).Y the I'resident (these people recognizing
no authority but that emanating from tiie President) to examine it and see
them ; that the President was a stranger to them and their country; thai

Doc. No. 51.

he was anxious to brin^ them within the protecting guardianship of the
United States; to provide them, as our other Indian tribes, with such neces-
saries of life as were now beyond their reach ; to encourage and aid them
in habits of life that would place them above a dependence on the game
of the plains for their subsistence ; that the President regretted the un-
friendly feelings and hostile meetings between them and the Sioux, when
they met on the plains; that it wiis'liis ardent wish that our frontiers might
be traversed in safety by whites and Indians ; and that he would adopt
measures to enforce this wish by sending large military forces into the
country ; that he would try to bring about a brotherly feeling between them
and the Sioux, and whichever was intractable or false to engagements
would be punished; that if the practice of killing each other, whenever
they met, was persisted in, the Indian who should kill one of another
tribe, would be taken and perhaps turned over to the friends of the de-
ceased. I urged them to organize themselves into a band, and appoint
their chiefs that they might have some order and government amongst
themselves with chiefs to arrange their matters of dispute : that as they
were, if the United States had any business to transact with them, there
was no person to address from whom the wishes of the people could be
obtained, &,c., &c.

They replied to me by several speakers, in substance : that they had
separated from the Chippewas of Lake Superior a long time back, and
came to that country in the pursuit of game and furs; that the country
was then claimed by the Sioux ; that they were constantly lighting with
them until a recent jieriod, since which they have been left in quiet and
undisturbed possession. They and the Sioux now regard the Shayenne
river as the boundary between them ; neither ever crosses this river without
apprehension.

Their "old men" say that the buffalo have decreased about one-half
within their recollection ; that the reilecting portion of them see very
plainly that the buffalo must eventually disappear, and their children will
be left to starve. They wish to make a commencement at cultivating the
soil lor their subsistence, but are without the means of doing it. Blankets
and clothing, so indispensably necessary in that climate, can be obtained
only from fur companies at exorbitant jirices, and their peltries sell very
low, &,c. Ike,

They could not agree about their chiefs, and requested me to appoint
them, which I declined ; but after much frviitless discussion, with no jiros-
pect of agreement amongst thenisidves, I told them that there were three
men, whose names I gave tliem, that had bet-n higlily recommended to me
as suitable! men for chiefs; that thry could retire and talk tlie matter over
amongst themselves, and if they agreed to tiiese men they could return the
next day and inform me. Tluiy came back tlu ni'\t thiy in a hody, ami
informed me that they had agrctvl upon tlie men I had noininatfd to them.
"Sakikwanel," in Knglisli "-Green Feather,'' to be principal chief.
" iMajekkwadjiwau,'' in Englisli '' V.m\ of the Current," to be "ist 2d
chief.

"• Kakakanawakkagan," in English " Long legs," to be 2d 2d chief.

Tiit-rse are the men llit-y s»!leotf(i, with my a>sistance, for their cuii is. I

did not feel authorized to appoint tlieiii, and inteiuU'd to do it conditionally

and submit their crcdcnliah to the (jovcinor of INlinnesota Territory, and

he Superintendant of Indian Atfairs therein ; but linding that a conditional

Doc. No. 51.

hip of the
■iuch neces-
(1 aid them
I the game
ed the un-
Loux, when
itiers might
ouhl adopt
BS into the
tween them
igagements
•, whenever
of another
of the de-
ind appoint
nt amongst
iidt as they
them, there
lie could be

at they had
e back, and
he country
ghting with
1 quiet and
e Shayenne
iver without

>ut onn-half
in see very
liildren will
livating the
. Bliinkels
be obtained
es sell very

i to appoint
ith no jiros-
i were throe
jnded to me
matter over
d return the
a body, ami
led to them.
// r///'7'.

])e "ist 2d

Id chief.
w r'iiii is. I
■onditionally
L'rritory, and

1 conditional

exercise of authority in the matter would only give rise to fiirlher dissen-
sions, I presented these chiefs with appointments, in writing, dating the
24th of August, '49, and gave each of them a medal.

I am happy to say that, since my return, Governor Ramsey has approved
of my course. After the above narrated ceremony was over, I again spoke
to them, and told them what was expected of them in their intercourse
with whites, with half-breeds, with each other, and with neighboring tribes.
I told the chief what were his duties, and also the sub-chiefs.

The Indians had gotten their guns, and, after the " talk" was over, fired
a salute to their new authorities, and I believe everybody was satisfied.
We saluted the new dignitaries with several discharges from our howitzer.

These Indians remain but for a short time about Pembina : their great
resort is to the ivest, in the ranges of Pembina and Turtle mountains, where
furs and game are yet abundant ; and east of Red river as far as Lac-des-
Roseaux, forty or fifty miles, where Mr. Kittson has a branch of his trading
establishment. Their reliance for food is principally on the builiilo, but
they get some smaller game; and when these resources fail, the supe"*-
abundance of fish supplies them, which, as the^' can be caught by the
women and children, who are always the most industrious, makes them
careless about the future. They go to the "Plains" with the half-breeds
after buffalo. While out on one of these excursions last summer, west of
the Shayenne river and south of Devil's lake, they fell in with a large
hunting narty of Sioux : a conflict ensued, and several were killed on both
sides, and many wounded. Many of the Red lake Cliippewas were with
them, and the total about one hundred andjifty warriors. The Sioyx were
more numerous, and from what I hear were successful in the engagement.
Scalps were taken by both parties; and those in possession of them being
the first to return to Pcmljina, the scalp-dance, if not to crowded houses,
was, to large assemblies, the rage up to the time we left. The scalps are
ornamented with ribbons and feathers, and faslenetl to the end of a stick
about three feet long. In the dance, the women carry them elevated above
the heads of the dancefs. This inspires them in the " mazy " with un-
wonted hilarity and enthusiasm.

These Indians gather largely of peltries in the winter,* and sell to the
traders. Mr. Kittson, I think, has the principal trade with them; and the
Indians themselves told me they preferred trading with him. But the
Hudson Bay Company, so close by, and dealing in ardent spirits, get many
of their furs. I would not state this from the many rumors I liear about
this traflic, as the Directors of the Company have thought proper to state
that this traffic was banished from their territories, had not the Indians told
me that en their return from their hunts, when they had plenty of furs,
they were in the habit of going to the English trading-house and having
"big drunks," sometimes of a week or two in duration.

Acconling to the l)est information 1 could get, the Hudson Bay Company
will not sell liquor, but will exchange it for furs: money will not buy it,
but fin-s can obtain it without limitation. I do not think this lompany
exerrise a very powerful iniluence over the Indians. If they ever did, that
influence is now much impaired by a harsh anil illiberal policy towards
thcni. The fruliiriKs arc Mot oncouiiiged to viSit the r.ngiish nettleinents
down about Fort Garey, and conse(iuently, I am told, rarely go there. At
the trading jjosts, when they have no furs, they are not noticed. The
Crecs, in what numbers I do' not know, live about the Luke of the Woods,

Doc. No. 51.

Rainy lake, and extend to Hudson's bay. The largest portion o them
live in the English territories ; many of them, united with the Assinabwans,
occupy the co"untry west of the Assinabwan river. • ., • i ,

I saw many of the Red lake Indians. They say they have in their band
about 150 warriors. They like the country about Red lake. Ihey say it
is swampy, but with some fertile and tillable lands which yield them arg-e
quantities of corn and potato: The lake is i led with " white fish," and
Lmc yet abundant about it ; all of which, added to their buffalo meat, is
ample for their subsistence. They are in constant communication with
the Chippewas of the Mississippi. . . , ■ , -n

I would respectfully refer to a communication which will accompany
this report, from the Rev. IVIr. Belcourt, in relation to the Indians and half-
breeds on that frontier. My statements of numbers, &c., are derived trom
the In(hans, and they have very indefinite ideas about numbers.

I will add, that Mr. Belcourt 'is a Catholic missionary who has resided in
that country for eighteen years, has learned the Indian languages spoken
on that frontier, has traveled over the most of it, and is perhaps better ac
quainted with the people of that region and their peculiarities, than any
other man in the country. I found him a polite, educated gentleman, with
a self-sacrificing devotion to his high and holy calling, that cannot but
excite admiration in a professor of Christianity, and respect trom the un-
believer and heathen. His wish for assistance in the pubhcation of his
Dictionary of the Chippewa language, is worthy of the tavorahle considera-
tion of a liberal government, which is striving in such profitless and nu-
merous ivays to ameliorate the condition of these unfortunate people.

Half-hreeds.
This IS a distinct class of people residing upon our frontier, dilTenng
materially from the Indian and the American (citizens of the U. N.,) in
manners, customs and pursuits; and in numbers and position of sutlicient
importance to be worthy of consideration from our government. 1 hey are
the descendants of the earlv cohMiists of that country, by intermarriage witfi
the Chippewa, Cree and \4ssinabwan Indians, and ^vel•e, at a period not
remote, residents upon our soil in their entire strength. When the line ot
the 49th parallel was marked, and the Hudson Bay Company found them-
selves located on our soil, the trading-posts of that company were removed
down the Red river about sixty miles. The half-breeds being principaly
in the employ of that company, and dependent upon them, were obliged to
follow. This obligation arose from their inability to get the necessaries ot
life from other sources than from the a<j:pnts of this company, ihis re-
moval, I believe, was about the year 18-24, when there was no communi-
cation between that point and the Mississippi river except by braving the
perils of a long and dilficult journey, through a wild waste of country
inhabited alone by numerous hostile tribes of Indians. With this view ot
the case, we may' well say they were compelled to leave our soil. V\ itlun
the last five or six years, the settlements on the Mississippi nver having
extended themselves' to a point within some 400 miles of Penibina ; the
Pstnbiishment of a Fur Company post on our side ol the line by Mr. Kiltson,
and the annual transportation, by large trains ot carts, of meicuai)ai/e to
that country ; these half-breeds have began to return, and are fust lilling
up again the frontier within our bonlers. . , , * i

The Hudson iiay Company have a charter which gives them the control

Doc. No. 51.

on of them
ssinabwans,

1 their band
They say it
I them laro-e
e fish," and
falo meat, is
cation with

accompany
,ns and half-
lerived from
s.

IS resided in
ages spoken
IS better ac-
es, than any
tie man, with
t cannot but
Vom the un-
ation of his
le considera-
iless and nn-
people.

ier, dilTering
he U. S.,) in

of sutlicient
t. They are
carriage with

a period not
•n tlie line of

found them-
rere removed
icr principally
!re obliged to
lecessaries of
ly. This re-
no corainuni-
V braving the
'e of country
1 this view of
soil. Within
i river having
^.'inl)ina ; the
f Mr. Kiltson,
erchaiiJi/e to
ire fust filling

;m the control

of an immense territory, within which they reserve or appropriate entirely
to themselves the fur trade. This is the only profitable business of the
country, and a monopoly of it by a company must necessarily make de-
pendents of all other inhabitants. This restriction cannot be infracted
within their territories, or by their residents out of tiiem, without a liability
to imprisonment and fines. The farmer's title to his land is with the con-
dition that he is not to engage in the fur trade. The merchant, the me-
chanic, the day-laborer and the hunter, are residents only upon this condi-
tion ; and the entire interests of the country are thus made to center around
a business that the great majority are excluded from. I was told on ray
arrival at Pembina, that the half-breed population were anxious to return
to their former homes within our borders ; but not having imbibed any
prepossesiaons of the country — its appearance not being calculated to
inspire them — I was incredulous until I learned that it was rather to free
themselves from disadvantageous restrictions, than from preference for a
locality which, according to accounts given me, is inferior to the one they
now occupy. They also have a lingering fondness for the place of their
birth, where reminiscences of parents and childish sports are revived by
surrounding objects.

They furnished me with a list of the actual inhabitants of Pembina, ex-
clusive of Indians, giving the names of heads of families, and dividing the
whole into males and females, as follows: — 177 families; of these 511 are
males, and 515 are females ; making a total of 1026 now living at Pembina.

They have about 600 carts, 300 oxen, 300 work horses, 150 horses for
the chase, 1500 head of horned cattle, a few hogs, no sheep. The half-
breed population on the English side is between 4000 and 5000, Of these
it is confidently expected by those living in our territory, that the greater
portion of thern will remove to the United States. From my conversations
with them, I think so myself; anil I am almost certain of it, if the U. S.
prohibit the half-breeds of the English territory from coming into our ter-
ritories to hunt butialo.

The greater part of these people are descendants of the Canadian
French.' They speak the French language, are nearly all Catholics, with
mild and gentle manners, great vivacity, generous and honest in their
transactions, and disposed to be a civil and orderly community. They are
hale and hcartv, robust men, evidently accustomed to hardships and ex-
posure, to which they submit cheerfully. They can hardly be called an
industrious people, which is rather attributable to circumstances than dis-
position. I am told they commenced farming in the country, but finding
no market for their jiroduce, and having much to buy.it was necessary that
they should resort to occupations that would yield them the means of
purchasing the necessaries of life. At that time, the Hudson Bay Company
traders were the only possessors of merchandize in the country, and would
dispose of it only in a way that would prouiote their own trade. This was
by the'iemployincnt of tnippers, voyageurs, and hunters on the plains.
From the hist'they got their "dried "meat'' and "■ pcinniican," articles of
subsistence which are almost the sole depcmlence of the people of that
country. This always finds a ready sale for money or goods. Into these
employ tnents the people ha\i' been" driven by neressity, in conritijuoncc of
whicli they had to negh-rt their farms; the practice continuing, they aban-
doned thein, anil are now the victims of occupations they cannot discard,
ami are able to obtain from them only a bare subsistence. They now

Doc. No. 51.

devote themselves entirely to fur hunting and the chnse ; by the former
they command some money, and by the latter they live. They go to the
plains in the Spring and Fall, in parties of from 300 to 500 hunters.
They appoint, before going out, a captam who controls and directs their
hunts, v-hich assume rather the character of an expedition than the unregu-
lated excursions of Imlians or whites when abroad with such objects. 1 heir
families go with them, and each family has from one to ten carts. For an
account of their mode of hunting, of preparing their meat, &c. &c., I will
refer you to a sprightly narrative written by the Rev. Mr. Belcourt, which
will accompany this report. From these hunts they procure the supplies
they subsist on. Within our territory there is no farming; the small
gardens they cultivate yield so triflingly, that they are hardly worthy of

notice, , , ■ , , • -t

They build log-cabins generally in the timber which they occupy in the
winter, and leave in the summer. Each family has its •' lodge" made of
dressed buffalo skin, and when pitched, it is of a conical shape ten or
fifteen feet high, and from ten to fifteen feet in diameter at its base. These
have a doorwliy, with a buffalo skin hung over it, which is lifted for an en-
trance. The fires are built in the centre, and the apex of the lodge has an
opening through which the smoke escapes. At this opening a win,g is
attached, so that by giving it a certain position with reference to the wind,
there is always a draft sulhcient to carry off the smoke.

I found the Half-breeds possessing the semblance of a government.
They had a council consisting of five of their principal men, in which
was vested a jurisdiction relating to transactions among themselves. On
the 24th of August these people had returned from their Spring hunt, and
about 200 of the liunters came to see me. They had appointed four men
as their speakers. I told them that in virtue of their Indian extraction,
those living on our side of the line were regarded as being in possession of
the Indians' right upon our soil ; that they were on our frontiers treated with
as component parts of the Indian tribes ; that tliey either came under the In-
dians' laws or regulations, or formed such for themselves. I urged them
to organize themselves into a band under a council or chiefs, inv^'sted with
ample authority to act in their name, in all matters which might arise to
affect their interests, to preserve and enforce order and harmony ; that the
President would not allow them to engage in any of the difficulties among
our Indians on the plains; that they were expected to live amicably with
all Indian tribes, &c., itc. ; generally to be good citizens, &c., &c. They
told me they would return the next day when they had perfected an organ-
ization they were then arranging. My talk had taken a wide range, but
not of importance enough to be even abridged. They wished to rellect
and have consultations upon it.

The next day thev returned in aliout the same numbers, and presented
me with nine names" as the committee they had selected for the future gov-
ernment of the Half-breed population within our borders. Mr. VVilky. the
first on the list, is the president of the committee. He is a French Half-
breed, of a good character, well disposed towards the United States, and
intelli<2;ent. The other eight of the council are men the most esteemed m
the country, and friendly toward the United States. They Miy ll is their wish
to become agriculturists. It is iheir intention to make their improvements
within our territory. They complain of the immense quantities of bullaloes
that are killed annually and carried into the Hudson's Bay territory. They

Doc. No. 51.

the former
y go to the

00 hunters,
lirects their
the unregu-
cts. Their
ts. For an

&c., I will
ourt, which
the supplies
; the small
y worthy of

cupy in the
jo" made of
liape ten or
ise. These
d for an en-
odge has an
i.g a wing is
to the wind,

!;overnment.
•n, in which
selves. On
ig hunt, and
:ed four men
. extraction,
)ossession of
treated with
inder the In-
urged them
nvestod with
light arise to
ny ; that the
uities among
Bical)ly with
, &c. They
ed an organ-
ic range, l)ut
;ied to retlect

nd presented
e future gov-
r, VVilky. the
FrencliIIalf-
d vStates, and
; esteemed in

1 is tlieir wish
mprovements
■s of bullaloes
:itory. They

want some encouragement and aid from the United States in affording
them facilit5"s for communication with the States. They are anxious to
have a military post established among them. They complain of the w ant
of a market for produce, &c., with a variety besides, but of a nature so ut-
terly at variance with the usual demands of a people upon a government,
that I made no record of them.

I told them that, on the subject of the P^nglish hunters kdling Lulialo, I
had no instrrctions but from the facts that the Indians were making the
same complaints ; that Major Sumner had heen ordered to the plains a few
years before with a military forct^ purposely to drive back these invaders,
and the Hudson's B<.y Co. were so stringent in their laws about hunting in
their territory, I thought it more than probable that the United States would
forcibly prevent such trespasses, were they persisted in. They say that
Major "Sumner directed them to put up notices prohibiting that practice ;
that they had done so, but they were not respected. I told them they
ought with safety to act upon the advice of Major Sumner, and enforce it,
if need bo, and our government would support them, as Major Sumner was
an authorized agent and reported his acts on that frontier, and if not ap-
proved, they would have been corrected. ,

Their des'ire for a military post is urged on the ground alone, that it will
give them a market. I told them our posts were established for the pro-
tection of the country. That if an armed force were necessary there to
protect tlie rights of the citizens, or to support the laws of the country, it
might be grarTted them, but that 1 was confident they would never get a
raihtary post among them for the sole purpose of affording a market for the
surplus produce. They are beginning to be imbued with the progressive-
ness of the age, and expect soon, with the patronage of the government,
to see their wilderness smiling in prosperity and beauty under the invigor-
ating influences of railroads and steamboats. The mat ter-of- fact business
of cultivating the soil and gathering about them all tlie comforts and enjoy-
ments that a provident industry can bestow, is tame in their excited ima-
ginations, and they did not listen with much satisfaction to the representa-
tions I gave them "of the prosperous independence of our farmers, and how
they attained it. They have nothing to sell, and in fact (in the way of
produce) ha " ■ "othing to live on ; still they clamor for a market.

As the Icit*. "ecrefary of the Interior to the President, in relation

vt to me with my instructions, I ventured to suggest
States contemplated opening that country for set-
,, 1 It would be necessary, first, to extinguish the In-
dian title. That this was not determined upon ; and as it was with a view
of ameliorating their condition by extending to them in full the rights and
privileges of citizens of the United Slates and the beneiit of our laws and
institutions, much would depend upon their wishes on the subject, liie
Half-breeds are delighted at such a prospect, and would readily acquiesce
in reasonable treaty stipulations for the country. The Indians are more
phle.vmatic of their high appreciation of such a blessing, though they
(lid not seem averse to it; and I doubt not would be easily induced to con-
sent. I threw out the suggestion that they might cogitate upon it in their
musing hours, and then they will be ready to act if they should ever be

called upon. , . , , ,r^ i • r i

On the 26th of August when we left Pembina the half breeds informed

me they would escort us a short distance on the road ; on leaving, we fired

to that frontier,
to them that thi
tlement. To do

t^t rnMrnn f fH t i" *'

Doc. No. 51.

them a parting salute from our howitzer. About seventy-five of them
well-mounted and with fire-arms accompanied us two or three miles, and
when about to turn back they informed me they would give us one volley,
and drawing up in line with great promptitude and regularity fired one
volley. Reloading almost instantly they gave two to the Governor of
Minnesota, and again they gave three to the President of the United States,
with a loud and prolonged cheer. I told-them that we were under many
obligations to them for their polite and kind attentions to us while in their
country and were thankful for the testimonial they had just given us of the
kind feeling they entertained towards us ; that I would inform the Presi-
dent and Governor of the favourable estimation in which they were held
and of the enthusiasm which their names inspired amongst a people living
on our extreme and most isolated frontier, 'i'his ended our visit at Pem-
bina, and left us on our way home.

Military.
Under my instructions as follows :— '"' It is proposed to establish a new
military post on or near the Red river of the North, and at a distance from
Fort Gaines, not exceeding 200 hundred miles. For this purpose it is
necessary to make a military examination of that country." I have taken
"Sank rapids"' on the Mississippi, 76 miles from Fort Snelling, as our
starting point, because it is the one where .the Mississippi will be crossed
by nil expeditions tc the Red river country. I selected the route crossing
at Sank rapids, in preference to the one by " Crow Wing," by the advice
of every person with whom I talked on the subject, some of whom had
been over both. The route taken is prairie almost the entire way, and in
a dry spring and summer or in the fall there cannot be a better road, as we
found on our return trip. The route by Crow Wing and the head of Otter-
tail lake is marshy woodland traversed by innumerable streams, covered by
"terris tramblantes," and with the exception of late in the fall and winter
cannot be travelled over without great difficulty, even by the Red river
cart. This is not an unconsidered assertion, for it has been so represented
to me by the most reputable men in the country ; and if it needed any
confirmation, it would receive it from the fact that the Red river carts
do not travel it, nor is this from habit, for their conductors have been over
the route and condemn it.

Having in view our extending frontier and the nature of the country, I
venture to suggest that Fort Gaines is unfortunately situated. I should do
so with more reluctance, were I not aware of the fact that the distinguished
officer who located it, pronounced against it when lie examined the coun-
try and said that Sank rapids was the place for the fort. Fort Gaines
never can connect or be one of the chain of posts to protect our frontier.
It is in the Winnebago country ar d near the Chippeway line. The Mis-
sissippi Chippeways are peaceable among themselves and well disposed
towards the United States. The Winnebagos have no inducements to seek
an outlet north ; their wishes are to return south ; l)eing prevented in this,
they will naturally turn to the west, over tliC prairies after buffalo. This
condition of things would make impossible any disagreement between these
two tribes, and Fort Gaines would nut be in a country where lis inllucnce
is required. Any movement from that post to the west could be made
more easily and expeditiously by coming down 45 or 50 miles to Sank
rapids foi a starting point. The country west of Fort Gaines is woods

Doc. No. 51.

ive of them
e miles, and
one volley,
ty fired one
lovernor of
lited States,
under many
Idle in their
en us of the
m the Presi-
■ were held
eople living
sit at Pem-

\blish a new
istance from
urpose it is
[ have taken
lling, as our
11 be crossed
)ute crossing
y the advice
f whom had
way, and in
• road, as we
ead of Otter-
I, covered by
1 and winter
le lied river
I represented
l needed any
d river carts
ve been over

le country, I
I should do
:listinguished
ed the coun-
Fort Gaines
; our frontier.
!. The Mis-
;^ell disposed
nents to seek
?nted in this,
uffalo. This
etween these
its irillucncc
lid be made
iles to Sank
)es is woods

with many little streams and springs, around which bogs and marshes
abound, over which it is almost impossible to travel, except in very dry
weather. To the north-west and north it is worse, and those who iiave
travelled over it tell me they will never do it again, unless late in the fall
or winter, when wood is an object on account of cold weather.

The Red river country will be reached almost exclusively by the route
crossing at Sank rapids as well as jjoints higher up on the St. Peters, Big
Stone lake and Lake Francis. By this route will those points connect
with the head of navigation on the Mississippi, and if Fort Gaines were
at Sank rapids it would be the ""commencement and depot of a line of
posts that will eventually extend to the Missouri river.

From Sank rapids to the jwst we put up on Red river it is 163 miles.
This is a wide interval to make between posts in so wild a region, sur-
rounded by the wildest and worst of Indians. By a reference to the map
it will be seen, the meeting point between the Sioux from Lac-qui-Parle,
Big Stone lake and Lake Francis ; the Chippeways from Otter-tail lake,
the headwaters of the Mississippi and the Winnebagos would be some
50 or 60 miles this side of the post and such is the fact. War parties formed
on either side skirt the lakes along the route we passed over and a little
east of it, on what is called the " Coteau du grand Bois," and there seek to
intercept individuals or stnall parties of hunters. This practice is what
keeps up the active feuds among them. The time has passed when the
Indians met each other in pitched battles, and now we have not nations to
pacify, but individual rancor to assuage and eradicate.

White Bear lake is a position that probably combines more advantages
for a military post than any other in that country at this time. It is 75
miles from Sank rapids and 88 from the post set up on the Red river. It
is central with reference to the bands of Indians above referred to, and a
force there would have the tendency to draw about Indians from each sur-
rounding tribe as they would know that they could come to the post and
be protected. This association would in a little time cause friendships to
spring up among them, the influence of which would be felt by each
nation. The position of the post on Red river is out of the range of these
Indians, with the exception of the Otter-tail lake band, and beyond the
point where a barrier or a neutral ground, that a military post makes, is
needed. At Fort Snelling 1 have seen the Sioux and Chippeways in
friendly converse, and passing their pipes in the most amicable manner
when if they had met away from the post each would have been striving
for the other's scalp.

The still more distant Indians that have their abode on the Missouri
river, Devil's lake, Pembina and Red lake, together with the formidable
body of hunters that congregate about and depart from Lake Travers for the
plains, must be dealt with by expeditions and a vigorous policy. At
Pembina I examined the country for an eligible site for a military post.
This, without locating or inducing the people to think as a matter of course
that a post would be established ; but in order to report " the best locality
for a post in that region." I don't think there can be any doubt about the
particular district of country that will become the important one near that
boundary. Pembina, by which is undcr^4ood the <listrict nf country above
the mouth of Pembina river, must ever be the point around which all
business and enterprise will center. East of it the line is not approachable,
nor are there a'*'^- ^^ints that will particularly invite settlements. From

Doc. No. 51.

Fort Snelling to reach any point on this line, must be by the way of
Pembina. Any military expeditions to or from the line, must be made by
this route, or by boats. From Lake Superior by Vermillion lake, although
there are heicrhts of land markeil by the maps, I am told the country could
not be traveled over; and all communication between that lake and the
Red river country, is made through Rainy lake, Rainy lake river, Lake of
the Woods, and "into Lake Winnipeg.

West of Red river for about 30 miles and Pembina mountain, the coun-
try is marshy, and there are no advantages in route, within that distance,
to reach the line, over the one by or to Pembina. To strike the line at
Pembina mountain, would lead over a broken, \.'oodland country ; and in
the wet season, the miry nature of all woodland soil in that region, would
present as much of an obstacle as the marshes of the bottoms or prairies.
The Red river being the largest river in the country, and holding out the
prospect of being sometime in the future navigated by steamers, has
brought and will bring all settlements as close upon it as possible. The
English settlement is on its banks, and the half century or more that has
elapsed since the early colonists established themselves there, has not
served to extend the increasing population back from this river. Pembina
is the natural gate through which all intercourse between the U. S. and the
Hudson Bay territories will find its passage. For these reasons, I deemed
it the most suitable locality for a post. It has plenty of timber, good
water, good soil, is a healthful point, and is the most accessible one in the
country. There is no stone. If subsistence can be had, the occupations
of the people of the country will have to change from what they are at

present.

As to the necessity of a post there, I do not think at the present time it
is called for on any score. The declamation about outrages committed on
our rights by the Hudson Bay Company, is altogether imaginative. This
company has a chartered monopoly of a" profitable trade, extending over an
immense territory, together with a legislative jurisdiction to a certain
extent. That the factors of this company should seek to promote then-
own interest, is not incompatible with the rights of a neighboring nation,
provided they do not infract treaty stipulations, or extend their laws beyond
their own territories. The regulation that some difficulty has arisen about,
is the one that prohibits the dealing in furs within the territories of the
company, by any person not authorized by said company. An instance,
and the only one 1 heard of, about which some noise was made, and which
I see was reported to Washington from this post, was in eiTect as follows :
Mr. Kittson, the agent of the American Fur Company at Pembina, sent
an English half-breed back in the mountains amongst the hunters and
trappers, with a supply of goods for traffic with the Indiars for furs, doubt-
less intending he should confine himself to U. S. territory,

. This half-breed was reported to the company as having been found on
its territory trading in furs. When he returned to the English settlement
he was apprehended, and imprisoned to await his trial. Mr. Kittson and
the half-breed both contended that he had not traded upon the company's
territories. The half-breed population became excited, and in a body
presented themselves armed and demanded the release of this prL>oner.
The authorities refused at first, but afterwards complied.

The whole affiur, according to the accounts given me, seemed an at-
tempt on the part of the company to maintain their authority, without

Doc. No. 51.

)y the wiiy of
it be made by
ake, altliough
country could
lake and the
liver, Lake of

ain, the coun-
that distance,
e the line at
iintry ; and in
region, would
y\s or prairies,
ildin'jj out the
steamers, has
lossible. The
more that has
here, has not
er. Pembina
i U. S. and the
ions, I deemed
timber, good
ible one in the
le occupations
bat they are at

present time it
1 committed on
inative. This
:;nding over an
1 to a certain

promote their
iboring nation,
iir laws beyond
is arisen aloout,
•ritories of the

An instance,
ide, and which
feet as follows :
: Pembina, sent
le hunters and
for furs, doubt-

; been found on
^lish settlement
Sir. Kittson and
the company's
and in a body
tf this pri^icner.

, seemed an at-
thority, without

wishing to extend beyond their own limits. Mr. Kittson, when visiting
the English settlement, was arrested as an accessory, but was not confined
or held to bail, a promise being exacted from him to attend his trial when
they met.

Another case which I believe was reported to Washingtoi>, was: That
two soldiers, deserters from the garrison at Fort Garry, had concealed
themselves near the trading-house on our side of the line ; that a party of
soldiers came up to the line, a few of them passed over and stealthily kept
along the bank of the river, and, unobserved, apprehended the deserters
and returned. As it was reported to me by people living in U. S. terri-
tory, they did not march an armed party across the line and forcibly arrest
and carry off citizens of the U. S.

I am sorry to say that the liberality of our government on that frontier,
is not reciprocated by the Hudson Bay Company. The subsistence of the
half-breed population of the English settlements, the Indians, and the
employees of the company, is obtained from the buffalo of our plains.
Their hunters and trappers prosecute their pursuits irrespective of boundary-
lines, and the traffic in ardent spirits with the Indians is permitted on our
borders. They deny us all privileges on their territory.

The English have a force at Fort Garry, about 60 miles below Pembina.
It is composed of pensioners from the English army, numbering about 100
men. These troops are in ;'„e pay of the company, and they are there for
the protection and enforcement of" this monopoly. When difficulties were
apprehended between Great Britain and the United States about the
Oregon boundary line, a regiment of English troops was sent to Fort
Garry ; but it has been withdrawn within two or three years.

The Adjutant-General in his instructions to me, says that all our frontier
posts are established with reference to our Indian relations. With that
view of the case, a post at Pembina would be entirely useless. A post
there would be to overawe the Indians and half-breeds, and protect our
rights on the frontier. The first is not now needed, as both Indians and
half-breeds are well disposed towards the U. S., and with no discordant
elements, unless freshly sown amongst them, to make difficulties even
probable. The second object does not demand the interposition of au-
thority, as I find no instances have occurred that seemed like a wish to
tresspass upon our rights, unless the habit that the English hunters have of
crossing the line after buffalo is an infraction of our rights ; and in that
case, I'clo not doubt but that if they were informed that they would be met
on the plains and their horses and carts taken from them, they would cease
to trouble us on that score.

That it would be an advantage to the country to establish a post there,
is, in my opinion, problematical. I know that the general impression is
that a military post, in a new country, gives a prosperous activity to agri-
cultural interests in its vicinity, by the public disbursements that are made.
My own experience has shown me, that pursuits about a post are made to
conform to the probable wants of the public service, and interests that do
not contribute directly to these, languish. Labor and articles of trade
have a fictitious value, and from the limited wants of a post a few persons
necessarily become monopolists, and the nine out of ten become factious
discontents.

The half-breed population on that frontier have been too long dependents
on the Hudson Bay Companv, which accounts for their present poverty;
DOC. 51*. —3

Doc. No. 51.

and this poverty will cling to them as long as they have a probable chance
of supporting themselves without cultivating the soil. They ask for
♦roops to afford them a market ; and I venture to predict that if a post is
established there, and this m.-rket that they ask for is not to the extent
they anticipate, they will petition for the removal of the troops.

As the letter of the Secretary of the Interior to the President, advising
the extinguishment of the Indian title and the opening of that country for
settlement, was sent to me with my instructions, it may not be inappro-
priate in me to say something on that subject. If that country were
opened for settlement, and the American and half-breed could go there
and locate themselves upon their own lands, with deeds for them that
woi'ld place their tenure above the whims of a company or the restrictions
that are placed upon residents in an Indian country, it would give them a
position that they have never known, but would soon appreciate. Being
then citizens of an organized territory, with laws in operation, administered
by legalized agents, the country would soon become an orderly and a
respected portion of the United States. , • i f

A district of country extending thirty or forty miles on both sides ot
Red river and the same distance up it, will throw into the market the best
or the most desirable portion of the country, and be sufficient for the de-
mands there, for a period beyond which it is hardly foresight to attempt to
provide. I think it would be folly to expect a large immigration into that
country from the U. States. It will settle with the half-breed population and
Canadians. This population will be a valuable one, for they are a good
class of people, accustomed to the rigors of that climate, and are free from
the morbid restlessness that so strongly characterizes the adventurer from
1he United States.

The wild Indians that meet on the plains, can be controlled by an occa-
sional expedition there ; but I think the greatest bar to quiet on those
prairies is found in the warlike spirit and power of the numerous body of
Si;»ux hunters issuing from about Lake Travers, and who attempt to control
the plains. If it is proposed to prevent these difficulties by means of posts,
the best location for one would be at Lake Travers. Jt would act directly
upon the Sioux, and, by the exercise of a proper influence over them, the
plains would be left in peace.

If a post is established at Pembina, it would be unjust to troops, and an
injury to our country, to send a small fore;- there. It is near 500 miles
from our settlements or posts, and troops would in case of trouble have lo
depend entirely on themselves, without the hope of succor, surrounded by
Indians and half-breeds. Two hundred and fifty men {five, companies
under the present organization,) would be the least force that ought to
make its appearance tlicn: ; then, if needed, advantageous results might be
obtaineJ. A display of forces on a smaller scale, would only exhibit oiir
weakness. In illustration of the foregoing, I will mention an instance that
occurred at ImtI (Jarry, the English post below. A half-breed, a supposed
offender against the laws of the Fur Company, was arrested for trial. 'I'he
half-breeds, to the number of more than live hundred, united and demanded
his release. Tin Knglish refused to release him, but di<| not dare to
bring him to trial. The half-breeds then consented that his trial might
proi-ecd, but the authorities, iimling they could not punishjn case of con-
viction, in the face of such a large armed force, abandoned the prosecution
and the culprit escaped.

Doc. No. 51.

•obable chance
They ask for
at if a post is
»t to the extent
Dps.

ident, advising
lat country for
at be inappro-

country were
:ould go there

for them that
the restrictions
Id give them a
eciate. Being
n, administered
orderly and a

)n both sides of
larket the best
lent for the de-
it to attempt to
ration into that
population and
they are a good
id are free from
idventurer from

led by an occa-
quiet on those
merous body of
tempt to control
means of posts,
luld act directly
; over them, the

) troops, and an
near 500 miles
trouble have lo
•, surrounded by
[jive companies
:e that ought to
results might be
Dnly ('\liil)it our
an instance that
■ccd, a supposed
1 for trial. 'I'he
d and demanded
did not (hire to
; his trial might
\j^n case of con-
l the prosecution

At Fort Garry they have about 100 pensioners : this force not being
able to contend with the formidable array assembled to resist them, were
constrained to be passive lookers-on. Now the half-breeds know their
power, and the force at Fort Garry is contemptible in their sight, and a
discredit to the powder and authority of England.

Lake Winnipeg is about 100 miles north of the 49th parallel, and is the
basin of water into which Red river debouches. This river, from what 1
learn, is navigable for steamers, from Lake Winnipeg to the mouth of Red
lake river. Above this point I have no reliable information, but would
judge its navigation would be attended with too many difficulties for it
ever to become a channel of trade. Red river, a few miles above the post
we put up, is easily fordable ; and from this point down to Red lake river,
its tributaries are small, and I would suppose did not swell its channel
into a navigable stream. It is narrow, and very crooked.

The outlet of Lake Winnepcg is called- Nelson's river, and empties into
Hudson's Bay at York Factory, a depot of the Hudson's Bay Company.
This river is full of rapids and cannot be navigated by row boats — several
portages have to be made.

I will add, in concluding my report, and without expecting any import-
ance will be attached to it, that I think the system of protecting our fron-
tier by small detached posts, is a defective one. As an instance, I will
take this frontier where there are four companies of infantry and one of
dragoon, making, when the companii;S are full, about 250 men. If this
force were at one post, there could be sent into this field, at any time, at
least two hundred men. This force would be respectable and influential
under all circumstances — expeditions could be made to the " Plains," and
amongst the most numerous tribes of Indians. It would be sufficient when
excitement arises among Indians at payments &c., to prevent disturbances.
Place this force strategetically and the frontier will have a better guard
than 1000 men can give, scattered in detachments of one or two com-
panies. A post of one company, which will not generally have an aver-
age strength of more than forty men ; after deducting from this number
the sick, disabled, and those necessary to be left at a post for the security
of public property, &c., and twenty-five men will be the most that can be
taken into the field. This force is insufficient for any good. Its presence
may sometimes prevent difficulties, but if so, it would be solely from the
disinclination of the Indians to embroil themselves with the United States,
and not from any fears or apprehensions about the result. Seeing these
small forces alone (their minds do not carry them beyond) gives them dis-
paraging impressions of the ])ower of the ll^niled States. Indians haxe no
fixed abode and the location of troops about haunts they may hav< , only
causes them to take up others, and the litllr posts that are established are
useless. Protection cannot ne given by placing a sentinel at each man's
door. Points must be selected, giving the l)est command of the district of
country an<l occupied in force, that can meet any prol)al)le emergency.

Fort Snelling is a point admirably calculated for the concentration of a
force. It is at the head of navigation on the Mississipj)i, where it is easy
of access and easily supplied, witli an Indian country almost surrounding
il^a country penetrable in almcst every direction, with no point where
troops would be suddenly wanted that could not be reached in four or five
days, it is convenient for fitting out expeditions for distant points. A

T -^ tWWI WWPilwwUBWPW

Doc. No. 51.

respectable force seen on the prairies amongst our wild Indians every sum-
mer would be of incalculable advantage. .

I Te pleasure in acknowledging the patient, promp, energetic and
soldierW Suet of Company " D," 1st dragoons ; exposed o every pnva-

! ^nM hiiin they continued the march and returned, with the un-
tion and h^^d^^ip, hey com^^^^ ^ ^ ^^^ j^^^^^

^ntdei^nCarte - '^^^^^ '^^1 expedition, had laborious difficult and
annovi^nrdu?ies to perfonn-he had also in charge a mountain howitzer^
The Sner in which these duties were pe.;formed was of mestimable
JdvanTarto the expedition and highly creditable to himself; 2d heu . T
F Cast'or 1st dragoons, after assuming command of Company "D 2d
dr'agoons, 'at Pembina, united his efforts with the company, and most faith-
i\x\\y performed his duties. ^ # » #

T V.ave *in the foregoing pages, attempted to lay before you the informa-
tion I was sent to obfain° ^I hav'e been 'prolix and I fear not satisfactory,
but if rcon'ls the information wanted, however disconnected or pkunly

^1^rSJ;rlLS;:ndt:rStthing t:, relVrto butmy own
no es I did not commence this report until alter my return rom Iowa.
° i am sir, very respectfully, your obedient^humWe^se^^

Brevrt Major, Commanding Expedition to Red River.

To General R. Jones,

Adjxitant-Gcncral V. S. .^.,
Washington City D. C.

Pembina, Territory of Minnesota,

Jlugust 201/h 1849.

My Dear Sir • I have received in due course your letter of the 12th
insWnt whfch reque s me to be so kind as to give you in writing such
r:^^;t::>l;: a;::?y long sc^oum in tl-counuymay^have enabkd me o
m-ike as well of the Indian tribes inhabiting it as ol the ^^*»'^V °/
Treeds who side within its borders. To do this properly ^vould c me
an X ended .letail, which the short time you intend remaining h,-
well as my own duties leave small space tor performance J^^^^^^^^^^^^
thP desire I have to .^ratify you, as well as the happiness it will .illoul me

I ' in armanner, he it never so little, either by my writings or othei
'work; hasienM:^ time lor the melioration of the -motion of a people
too long miserable, do not permit me to reiuse e"^;^!^^^^^^ ^^^'^^
accordingly be couched in perspicuous and concise •'"K";''R^- , p,„,|,ina

'n'bo Mi,, ":•::, :^ , ' „ 1« ;i»;n" whe,o feed i,„„„„e.U,le he,*

„r il,i, „.ri„„ oMain (lic^ir sul.sistcm-.', ro.ilau. vMlliiii llieir i ""!»•' '™"
iry '^.oullour lmt.,lr.-,l .niles lr„m .u.rlh lo south, ana more th.in f..e hun-
dred utiles from east lo wesl. , ■ , c ,i.;„ r.nun-
Although the Chippewas have hern for ages m possession o this coun
try, tradition teaches us that it prcMously belonged to the .^loux.

IS every sum-
energetic and
J every priva-
, with the un-
[nfantry, corn-
difficult, and
tain howitzer,
of inestimable
i; 2d lieut. T.
paiiy " D," 2d
md most faith-

lu the informa-
)t satisfactorvj
3ted or plainly

>, but my own
1 from Iowa,
nt,

Red River.

Doc. No. 51.

[NESOTA,

t 20lh, 1849.
tter of the 12tlj
in writing such
enabled me to
white or half-
y would require
naining here, as
Nevertheless,
t will afford me,
vritings or other
on of a people,
My reply will

called Pcmbma,
travetsed by the
ninth parallel of
ic height uf land
numerable herds
i and half-breeds
ir limits a coun-
re than five bun-
ion of this coun-
,he Sioux. The

Chippew-as then inhabited the region lying between ne Sault of St. Mary's,
from which that tribe takes its name (Sateaux) and Lake Winnepeg ; the
Crees, their allies, occupying that from Lake VVinnepeg and other lakes as
far as the Kis-is-kad-ji-wan (and not Laskid jewan) river and towards the
Assiniboin river, which, running from west to east, debouches into the
Red river about 49° 55, which is also designated by the Chippewas as
West Red river, also the great Red river ; the banks of which were the
field of battle of those warlike ^tribes, who were alike formidable for their
numbers. The many and bloody combats which occurred every yaar on
these prairies have apparently caused the designation of Red to be given
to this river, for neither in its course nor at its source is the water tinged
with that color. These plains remained the scene of contention ; never-
theless oftener the residence of the Sioux than of the other tribes, until that
nation was divided into two bodies, occasioned by dissensions originating
in jealousy of the women which proved anfficiently powerful to produce a
bloody conflict ending in their becoming irreconcilable enemies even to
this day. One of these divisions retained the country and the name of
Pmvn, Sioux, while the less powerful and flying party took refuge in the
rocky precipices of the Lake of the Woods and assumed the name of ./Issi-
nipawn, or Sioux of the Rocks, These last then allied themselves per-
manently with the Crees and Chippewas, and by reason of their superior
numbers when combined, they forced the Sioux to fly nearly to the
Cheyesme river, which is now regarded as the line between these tribes.

Although the Crees and Chijipewas were then extremely numerous, they
are far from being sufficiently so now to spread over the vast region they
temporarily occupy. The small-pox, not very long since, found its way
among them, and not only decimated, but in many of their camps, did not
even leave one in ten alive. Here on the banks of the Pembina there is
not a spot near the river where the plough-share does not throw out of the
furrow quantities of human bones, remains of the destructive scourge.

Generally speaking, each post of trade has from two to three hundred
hunters which would form a jiopuhilion — estimating three as the proportion
to one hunter — of nine hundred souls for each three hundred hunters. This
granted, taking the posts of Red lake, of Reed lake, of Pembina, and at
the source of Pembiim river or Turtle mountain, at the minimum rate sup-
posed, say two hundred hunters each at the four places of trade, and we
would have a total of about two thousand four hundred souls ; a number
which I believe to be less than the truth.

The Crees and Assiniboins regard themselves as equally masters of these
lands with the Chippewas, having arq\iired them jointly with the latter, at
the expense of their blood. Nevertheless, the Mouse river, which, in its
course, approaches within thirty miles of the Missouri, and empties itself
into the Assiniboin river, about ninety miles from its mouth, would ap-
pear to he the tru(! line, which is never passed by the hunters oi the tribe,
except perhaps towards its source where it approaches Moose mountain,
which is a point where they are accustomed to concentrate, and for the
most part reside. The Crees and Assiniboins form sometimes a camp of
four or five, hundred lodges, each lodge containing two or three families.
All thisigK i:\\c{",\ \v,i''.!-o.',]<\:\i'rM\(^r)^ \\--,i\ placir^g \h'- v,'\n\hi'T of sfii-h at ion
to each lodge, I estimate the sum total of these bamls at about five thou-
sand.

The Chippewas, like all barbarous tribes, are much demoralized, and,

Doc. No. 51.

above all others, superstitious to excess. All that is marvellous is believed
Sout examination, however ridiculous it may be. With them dreams
Tre revelaUon , and the bird, man, or monster who is the hero, or the sub-
let of thesis regarded a^ a tutelary deity ; and the same is the case
ihould t n^ove a stone, a tree, or a serpent. They make an image of wood
SothesSbsIance, which is carefully preserved, and which they invoke in
?Lrmoments of sickness, or when pressed by the pangs of hunger. 1 hey
make occasional sacrifices, principally of dogs. ipolous-

Polvsamv, although common among them, is often the cause ot jealous
ies andTvln of suicides. Strong liquors have for them an irre^stible
attJacUon! of which fact the English traders, whose desire for gain knows
io ToS, take every advantagl thus -^ing the worsM-ssion of these
DOor people to subserve their own pecmiary interest. Ihe tralft. in in
\oxlITnl drinks is the abhorrence of those missionaries who are conse-
crated to^he object of Christianizing these heathens. The Chippewas
Semselves notw thstanding their passion for rum, with no desire to depre-
ciatT(whlch would little be suspected), look upon it as an infernal means,
on he part of English traders, to make use of rum for the purpose of de-
spoiling the poor Indians of all they possess, and for such Pnces as they
choo e^to give. It is an insult to humanity and to justice, which it should
be the glofy of governments to repress. I never ^vould end was I to com-
mit to faper all the abominations caused by this traffic on our border. We
have m^e application to the English government, ^"^^g ^^^her tmngs for
the abolition of this commerce in liquor ; but it seems that with that court
nte?est preponderates over the rights of humanity, for a deaf ear has been
turned to our demands. The committee of the Hudson Bay Company in
England has had the impudence to reply to a petition ot the Bishops of
Canada, asking for the abolition of this branch of their trade w h the In-
dians, " that they had already ceased it in all the countries under their juri«-
d ction '" Who could have supposed such audacious mendacity when we
know that one-fifth in value of all their importations last year consisted of

'"^The Chippewas who reside upon the line, or thereabouts, are generally
miserably poor, sluggards, having no aptitude but for the chase. Ihey
neglect all sorts of ?and cilture. They live upon fish in summer, and rab-
bits in winter. The moose, the elk, the reindeer, and the bear have be-
come very rare, and none but the most skilful hunters can kil enough
of these animals to support themselves during the winter. 1 he Red lake
Chippewas are the only ones who appreciate the importance of cultivation
of the soil, and among them only the women labor in raising corn and
potatoes. This tribe or band appears, however, more industriously dis-
posed than the others, and more provident of the necessaries ol lile ; anU
thev take advantage also of the abundance of maple in their country to

Tt^Z:li:^^r^ are much addicted to play, and when assem-
bled together in cam)), they pass whr.le days and nights in playing, sing-
ing, and beating the drum; for all these go together, and are a^-^-"«nP;\"'^;^
b/grimaces, all of which wouhl appear to a spect^Uor unacqua.ntecUith
their customs, as indications oi iren/y. Fnese indr.m-, »ut m,!..^ ••; • •"-
sufficienlly industrious to fabricate objects of luxury, seek ev'-u in tht
dust for earth of .livers colors wherewilh to paint their faces and bo les m
different ways, more or less fantastically, while they braid or twist their

Doc. No. 51.

IS is believed
them dreams
», or the sub-
I is the case
(lage of wood
ey invoke in
inger.

They

se of jealous-
n irresistible
r gain knows
ssion of these
traffic in in-

are conse-
e Chippewas
sire to depre-
ifernal means,
urpose of de-
)rices as they
hich it should
was I to cora-
ir border. We
her things, for
vith that court
f ear has been
y Company in
the Bishops of
ie with the In-
der their juris-
acity when we
ar consisted of

, are generally
chase. They
nmer, and rab-
bear have be-
in kill enough
The Red lake
e of cultivation
lising corn and
ilustriously dis-
cs of life ; and
heir country to

id when assem-

1 playing, sing-
re accompanied
acquainted with

ita t '"f^ ■■" " "

fk ev<Mi in the
js and bodies in
id or twist their

hair according to their particular tastes, intertwined with buttons, feathers,
and other gew-gaws, so that they are frequently so completely disfigured,
that one must be gifted with more than usual gravity, not to give vent to
roars of laughter upon ur.ing visited by one of these exquisites.

The Western Chippewas live principally, as well as the Crees and As-
siniboins, upon the flesh of the bison, which they prepare in such a man-
ner as to preserve it a long time, as you may see by a report of a hunting
excursion, which I have had the honor to present you. Idle and improvi-
dent as they are, notwithstanding the abundance of bison, they are often a
heavy charge upon the half-breeds, to whom they have recourse in seasons
of distress.

Although endowed with much shrewdness they are very difficult to be
taught, generally taxing the patience of their instructors by the little mem-
ory and intelligence they display. They have school-books and prayers
printed in their language, as well as a grammar. A dictionary complete,
which forms in manuscript a quarto volume, has not been printed. I am
only waiting to procuie the means for effecting this object, and the work
would be extremely useful. I would be really happy if some influential
personage would procure this favor to be done me by Congress.

The Chippewas have a mode of writing peculiar to themselves. This is
by means of hieroglyphics, to which an arbitrary idea is attached, and is
found on the handles of their pipes, on their tombs, and on the bark where-
on they write their war songs, or their songs of love or ridicule; also their
invocations to the diff'erent deities adored by them.

The Chippewas, albeit of careless and beggarly habits and of a charac-
ter marked by much sangfroid, are ordinarily civil and well inclined to-
wards the people of civilized nations, in whom they admire the ingenuity
displayed m the manufacture of those articles of exchange, "hich they
receive in the course of trade. Nevertheless this mildness of uianner so
manifest in their general demeanor, is changed to a worse than canine
rage, when they engage in war. Revenge and superstition render them
warlike, and when conquerors, wo to the wretch who falls into their hands.
This has been illustrated by an occurrence which took place not fifteen
days since. The Chippewas having killed three or four Sioux in battle,
besides the scalps, cut from the thighs of some of their victims strips of
flesh, which they cured in the same way with the meat of the bison, for the
purpose of being preserved for their war feasts.

A peace was happily concluded between the western Chip]>ewas and
Mandans which has been faithfully observed for six years. We might
possibly persuade the former to make a treaty of pacification also with the
Sioux, if we could persuade ourselves of the sincerity of the latter. Several
essays have been made to eflect this desirable object, but the Chippewas
assert that the Sioux are always the first to break their engagements.
This fact, taken into consideration with the knowledge possessed by the
Chippewas, that the Sioux freciuently kill white men as well as themselves,
causes me to believe that any steps that we can take to obtain a peace
between these hostile tribes, would be but labor lost. We have but to
desire that the government of the United States, whose wisdom is admired
by ill! tlie Indian tribes I have visited, even to the Upper Missouri, will
declare that it intends to put a stop to hostilities, and will exact peace
under the pain of imprisonment or such other punishment as may be
judged proper to induce them to keep it.

Doc. No. 51.

The hunt for fur-bearing and other animals of the woods becoming con-
siderably less each year, it is much to be desired that these poor people
should bVfmbuedwith 'a taste for cultivation of the soil A ready they
wrto feel sensible of the necessity of this step, if not for themselves
atkast for their descendants, and it is a blessing to them, vvhich many of
them appreciate, that the government is disposed to pay them hberaly
for thei lands, the prices of which when received wi 1 serve luc better
disposed portion of them, to establish themselves like the whites, and live
a civilized life which they all foresee must be embraced sooner or later in
snite of their indolence. , . , .• i i

^The Chippewas are commonly attached to their traders, particularly
when they remark in them that uprightness and kindness to '^e Indians
wWch cause them to be called /a^/ter by the latter. If " - c^outrary,
deceit and bad faith appear in their dealings, they are !.> sovereign

contempt by the Indians, which is manifested on a occ. • is with that
frankTJss which is their characteristic. A chief will say to a Bourgeois
(head trader at a postorina district) " You lack for nothing, and yet you have
a Innp-inoT for my trash (or rags)." , , , ,

I aS happy to be able to say that those American traders I have known
show far Ee fair dealing and honesty in their trade than the British
traders This accounts for the fact, without doubt, that the hones trader
that we have at Pembina (Mr. Norman Kittson succeeds so well in his
buless, notwithstanding the opposition of the Hudson Bay Company,
and in spite of the rum which they make use of in profusion.

The half-breeds are much more numerous than the Indians in this De-
partment. There are mixed bloods of different tribes which spread them-
selves from the stony mountains of the Atlantic Ocean. We have countea
he descendants of thirteen different bands, but the very great majority are
of Cree or Chippewa extraction and of this majority the Chippewas have

^^Th^half-Ced's are mild, generous, polished in their manners, and ready
to do a kindness ; of great uprightness, not over anx.ms «f ^/^coming rich,
contenting themselvesNvith the necessaries of 1'^^' P.^ ^^^ '^^^^ ^l vPt T
at all times possessed. The greater number are no friends to labor , jet 1
believe this vice to proceed more from a want of encouragemen , and the
small prices they receive for their products, than from laziness ; this opin-
ion is grounded upon the fact, that they are insensd,le to fatigue and ex-
posure, which they endure with lightness of henrt when called upon to do
so in the course of their diverse occupations. They have much openness
of spirit, and their children manifest good capacity when taught; still ve
could wish them to possess a little more perseverance 1 hey are generally
gay and fond of enjoyment ; they affect music, there being but a lew, com-
laratively speaking, who do not play on the violin. '1 hey are of a fine
Z-sical conformaUon, robust and full of health and of a swarthy hue
We see but sli<^ht dissensions in their families, which are ior the mos^t part
numerous. The men commonly marry at the age of seventeen or eighteen,
an? as a general thing are of good morals. The halt-breeds number over
five thousand souls. They first established themstdves at Pembina near-
the mouth of the river ofthat name, about iHlh, when they had wuij
Ihem a resident Cana.lian priest. They had also erected a <^h"reh am
were engaged in the cultivation of the soil with great success when Ma or
Lon.r visited the country } and having ascertained the latitude, declared it

Doc. No. 51.

:oming con-
poor people
1 ready they
themselves,
ch many of
;ra liberally
J the better
;es, and live
• or later in

particularly
^^e Indians
'-" ;;outrarv,
sovereign
AS with that
a Bourgeois
j^et you have

have known
the British
lonest trader
3 well in his
y Company,

s in this De-
ipread them-
lave counted
majority are
ppewas have

rs, and ready
icoming rich,
they arc not
labor; yet I
nent, and the
s ; this opin-
iguc and ex-
d upon to do
uch openness
ighl; still we
are generally
it a few, com-
are of a fine
swarthy hue.
the most part
n or eighteen,
i number over
^embina, near
hey had with
1 rhurrh, and
s when Maior
de, declared it

to be south of 49*^ ; St. Louis being then the nearest American settlement
of any size, and the distance to that city being very great, it was out of the
question for the residents of Pembina to hold intercourse with it, except by
incurring great expense as wel.' as danger. The Hudson Bay Company
profited by the inability of the colonists to communicate with the States,
to give public notice that all those inhabitants Avho were established on the
American side of the line should descend the Red river and make a settle-
ment about the mouth of the Assiniboin river, under the penalty in case
of failure so to do, of beigg refused all supplies from their store. At that
time even more than at present, powder, balls, and net thread for fishing,
were articles indispensably necessary to their subsistence. In short they
were obliged to submit.

Since that period, the half-breeds have always spoken of Pembina as a
spot for which they have a strong predelicticn, and regretted the necessity
which forced them to leave it. Gradually as the Mississippi settlements
have appioached towards us, until* a line of communication has been
opened with them within the last three or four years, and the half-breeds
have felt the possibility of procuring the necessaries of life from that quar-
ter as well as from the British side ; from that time many of them have
returned to the place of their birth, happy, at length, to be able to with-
draw themselves from a state of vassalage in which they had been held as
long as possible, by a company of monopolists held together by a sort of
charter which invests them with power beyond control, and of which in
our day, there exists no other example. This was the result of a conces-
sion made by a king alone without the assent of parliament, and conse-
quently null according to the English constitution ; nevertheless is this
doubtful power vigorously enforced over a people ignorant, removed to the
world's end, and who have consequently no means of making their com-
plaints heard by the sovereign.

But behold how providential interference has prepared the road ; for
while, on the one hand, without foreseeing what was to come to pass, it was
decided at Montreal to send a missionary among the Pembina half-breeds;
on the other hand, the Congress of the United States have organized the
Territory of Minnesota, and have sent troops to examine and, if need be,
to protect the settlement at the same point. At this news, the half-breeds
leaped with joy, and more than a thousand have caused their names to be
inscribed on the list of the settlers at Pembina ; others, not believing the
report, wish to see with their eyes that measures have been adopted, which
the partisans of the Hudson Bay Company asserted were impossible, be-
cause of the poverty of the American government. Before three years
shall have elapsed, if the government of the United States in its liberality,
and compassionating the situation of a people originally its citizens and
for so long a time miserable, will extend its protecting hand to us, more
than four thousand souls will soon embrace and enjoy the sweets of liberty,
to them hitherto unknown.

The half-breeds are rather hunt rs than agriculturalists, and this is owing
to their being unable to sell the produce of their farms, while on the other
hand, they find it easy to sell the articles obtained in their hunts; still a
large number apply themselves to both farming and hunting with 1X1^^.^^
success.

Besides the reason already given why the half-breeds wish to reunite
themselves to the United States, which is the arbitrary conduct of the Hud-

Doc. No. 51.

son Bay Company in its government, there are others why a return to Pem-
bina is much desired, to wit : . , ^ re. ^^ t r „i,„
First. The British settlement is situated about fifty miles from Lake
•Winnepeff. There they begin to plant during the latter part of April or
beginning of May ; all the seed springs out of the ground before the end ot
the latter month, and while the surface of the lake is stil covered with ice.
If it so happens that the wind blows from the north for three or four days,
the atmosphere becomes considerably colder, and if it becomes calm during
the night all the tender plants are destroyed by frost ; while at the distance
of 75 or 80 miles farther south, at Pembina, the cold is not lelt so severely,
nor does the frost ever injure the early plants. Experience has shown that
European plants which could not be acclimated in the British colony, nour-
ish well at Pembina. . ...

Second. The half-breed hunters, as well from necessity as from inclma-
tion, do not feel that they have a right to pursue this avocation on Ameri-
can soil, in order to carry the products of their chase to the British side,
which they have been obliged to do heretofore. Apart from this consider-
ation, Pembina may be looked upon as the gate to the prairies where the
hunts are made, and where the bison abounds. The fishery is also very
productive ; and although these natural advantages cannot be regarded as
always to be depended on, still they are worthy of being taken into the
account in an infant settlement; for should there occur a season ot scarcity
we should be glad to have recourse to these means of subsistence. _

Third. There are salt springs to be found in abundance in the neighbor-
hood, which might be rendered profitable, not only for the wants of the
colony, but of trade with distant parts, so soon as the means of transport-
ation are facilitated. , i r u -i i
Fourth. The probability of a failure, at an early day, ot wood for bmld-
ing as well as fuel, which threatens the British settlement, which will soon
be obliged to supply itself from Lake Winnipeg at great expense, is another
reason why Pembina is preferred, it being directly en the river; it has
above it inexhaustible forests, extending even as far as R-A Lake, trom
which wood can be taken down the current in rafts to any anount.

Fifth. There are also in near proximity probable, not to say certain in-
dications that stone-coal and iron ores will be found to bf. abundant, the
working of which, aided by the encouragement which the American gov-
ernment knows so well how to afford to its settlements, ma) soon, we Hat-
ter ourselves, form an important branch of commerce.

Sixth. Pembina is, besides, the point where all the inhabitants ot the
north-west will necessarily pass, in communicating with the United States,
and is without dispute the only natural road to intercourse with the civilized
world. We can come from England by the way of Hudson's Bay but once
in a year, and this is across deep abysses, and for so few days only as serve
to change the cargo, while from Pembina it would be easy to ascend the
Red river in steamboats, as far as the projected settlement at the end oj
the Sioux Woods, about 300 miles, thence to the River St. Peters by canals,
which could be easily made on the level prairies, and winch are not ob-
structed by rocks, thence by the St. Peters river in steamboats.

'in,:„ «^.,f,. ««f.n prsf""'' tKorp vniiljl ho nn immnnse nuantitv of fertile
lands easy of cultivation ready to be settled, and the products ot wliicn
would be of more importance than those of abundant mines.

Seventh. On the two sides of the Red river and of each of its tributaries,

Doc. No. 51.

n to Pem-

rom Lake
f April or
the end of
d with ice.
four days,
dm during
le distance
3 severely,
ihown that
lony, flour-

)in inclina-
on Ameri-
ritish side,
s consider-
where the
1 also very
egarded as
n into the
of scarcity
ce.

B neighbor-
ants of the
f transport-

d for build-
;h will soon
e, is another
iver; it has
Lake, from
lunt.

r certain in-
undant, the
erican gov-
)on, we flat-

tants of the
nited States,
the civilized
Jay but once
Dnly as serve

ascend the
t the end of
IS by canals,

are not ob-

spread out prairies, on which the thick high grass affords evidence of their
value, composed, as they are, of light soil, which is destitute of stones.
Hay is abundant everywhere, affording many facilities for raising cattle and
sheep, which would becora an important item of trade when transportation
becomes more easy.

Eighth. In fine, the country is exceedingly healthy, afflicted with neither
cholera nor fevers ; the winds, which are almost constant, purify the at-
mosphere ; and we frequently see cases of longevity which are rare else-
where, such as children playing upon the knees of their great-grandfather.
Although it sometimes happens that the weather is so cold as to freeze the
mercury, this is rarely- the case, and as a general thing, there is much less
suffering from cold in these latitudes than there is from the summer heat
in the southern States of America. The ground is frozen about the be-
ginning of November, and is susceptible of cultivation near the end of
April.

These are the principal advantages, without taking to account the pre-
cious hope of our soon becoming a party to the privileges of children of a
republic glorious and powerful, \Vhich calls back the half-breeds to their
ancient home, and which will continue to draw to the same place a large
number of the employes of the Hudson Bay Company, so soon as they
shall have fulfilled their engagements and become once more free.

I have already opened two schools for the instruction of the half-breods;
one in French and the other in Chippewa, for these tongues, conjointly
with the Cree, are the only ones now in use here, and even the French is
not much spoken. But the feeble means at my command thus far, do not
permit me to put these schools upon a desirable footing. I hope much from
the wisdom of those agents of the Government, who shall be charged with
appropriating the money to be paid for the lands in this department.

One of the principal wants of a new settlement like ours is a court of jus-
tice ; afterwards capitalists, or the government itself, to originate works or
manufactures which would require the labor of hands, &c. ; then an acces-
sion of merchants who could afford to take the fruits of the earth in ex-
change for merchandize ; or if these are not accorded us, we wish at least
that those persons of influence and of liberal sentiments will use their in-
terest with the government to procure for us these advantages, without
which this colony must languish. We hope above all that our condition
will touch your feelings in such wise as to secure for us your suffrages.

I have thus, although in a very imperfect manner, portrayed the charac-
ter of our Indians, of the half-breeds, and the state of the country generally,
■which comprise the answer to the three questions contained in your letter,
and to which you desired a reply ; I should esteem myself fortunate if in
doing so I have met and satisfied your wishes.

I am, with consideration, my dear major, your very humble servant,

(Signed) G. A. BELCOURT,

Majou Wood. Missionary Priest.

ity of fertile
;ts of which

ts tributaries,

Doc. No. 51.

Lettre de M. Belcourt, A.M. C.

St. Paul, 25 Nov., 1845.
MoN CHER Ami : Je puis maintenant vous parler sciemment de la chasse
du bison faite par les habitants de notre pays, ayant pu les accompagner
dans une de leurs excursions. Je dois prealablement vous prevenir que
la course d'automne est toujours celle ou il y a moins de chasseurs, et cela
pour les raisons suivantes. Jne partie des metis, qui n'ont point les
moyens d'hiverner dans la colonie, se dispersent de cote et d'autre, compt-
ant pour subsister, pendant la saison rigoureuse, sur la chasse de la biche,
de I'orignal et de I'ours ; d'autres, esperant gagner davantage a la chasse
des ainmaux a pellaterie qu'a celle du bison, survent pour cet objet le
cours des rivieres et les bords des lacs : de sorte qu'nn tiers des hommes
seuleraent forme le partie de la chasse d'automne.

Le retour de la derniere chasse d'ete avait ete pitoyable. Apres une
marche tres-longue, par une temperature excessivement chande, tons etai-
ent revenus avec le quart de leurs charges, et n'emportant que la mauyaises
provisions. Ce malheur etait du plutot a leur manque d'union qii a la
rarete des animaux : aussi plusieurs etaient decourages. Ceux-ci cepen-
dant reprirent esperance, loisqu'ils apprirent qu'un pretre devait les ac-
compagner. Avec la confiance d'un meilleur sort. Ton fit des preparatifs
tant a St. Boniface qu'a la prairie du cheval Blanc ; et nous nous mimes
en marche, les uns apres les autres, jusqu'ou 9 Septembre ou je parti le
dernier. Le rendez-vous etait marque sur la riviere Pembina, non pais a
I'ancien establissement, mais a environ une journee de marche plus haut.
.3'y arrivai le troisieme jour apres mon depart.

Du Sommet de la colline qui s' eleve a plus de 200 pieds au-dessus du
niveau de la riviere, je decouvris le camp, compose d'environ 60 loges. II
efait place au milieu de prairies, dans lesquelles paissaient environ 300
chevaux et plus de 100 boeufs. Au loin, de jeunes chasseurs, suivant les
detours de la riviere, revenaient charges cle g^'bier, tandis que, d'un autre
c6t<5, des enfants retournaient au camp- ployant sous le poids de leur
peche. Les charrettes se croisaient en tous ^f^ns, transportant du bois de
chaufFage, des essieux de reserve, des perches pour les loges, les grils et
les cadres. Comme nous allions quitter le bois pour nous lancer sur une
prairie immense comme la mer, il fallait se pourvoir de tons ces objets.
Jusqu'ici rien de facheux. si ce n'est un violent orage que j'endurai, sub

un acci-
secoue par

dio, sur la montagne de Pembina, et encore n'oserai-je mentionner
dent si ordinaire aux voyageurs, si je n'eusse ete fortement sec
I'electricite du physicien supreme. Mon cheval fit deux ou trois pirouettes,
et demeura abasourda pendant quelques jours.

Le 14, par un temps chaud, nous le. '^•mes le camp pour gravir la cote
opposee. De la nous apercumes, comme I'ocean avec ses vagues, cetle
prairie sans homes, avec ses collines et ses vallons se succedan^ dans une
uniformite constante jusqu'au Missouri, j'oserais dire, jusqu'aux Montagnes
Rocheuses.

II nous fallait ici determiner vers quel point I'horison nous devious nous
diriger. Voyant que les chasseurs de la Riviere-llouge ne s'^ etaient pas

etabli i^urs quartiers d'hiver au bout de la Montagne a la Fortuc ot sur la
Biviere a la Souris ; en consequence nous n'avions point de chance prob-

Doc. No. 51.

, 1845.
la chasse
:)mpagner
venir que
rs, et cela
point les
e, compt-
: la biche,
la chasse
t objet le
3 hommes

A^pres une
tons etai-
mauvaises
n qii a la
-ci cepen-
lit les iic-
ireparatifs
ous mimes
e parti le
ion pais ft
plus haut.

;-(Iessus du
loges. II
iviron 300
suivant les
d'un autre
Is de leur
du bois de
les grils et
;er sur une
obiets.
ndurai, sub
er un acci-
secoue par
pirouettes,

vir la cote
igiies, cette
t, dans une
Montagnes

jvious nous
etaient pas
a montagne
evant eux,
His avaient
ue et sur la
liance prob-

able en marchant sur leurs brisees. On decida done qu'il fallait prendre
une direction mitoyenne, et le S. S. E. d'abord, puis ensui^e le S. S. O.
furent admis. Cette route devait nous conduire au sac des Branches, But-
tes des Trous, Lac du Diable, Petite Fourche de la Rlviire a la Chayenne,
Lac du Bois-blanc, Mason du Chien. L'avis publiquement donne, et des
guides nommes, on se mit en marche.

Les charrettes, uu norabre de 213, s'avancaient sur trois colonnes,
trainees les unes par des boeufs, les autres, par des chevaux. Elles for-
maient des lignes beaucoup plus longues qu'on ne Timaginerait d'abord, si
I'on ne savait qu'a chacune de ce voitures sont attachees des perches de 15
& 18 pieds de longue'^ur.

Cependant des cavaliers se dispersaient dans toutes les directions, et
disparaissaient dans I'elorgnement pour ne revenir que le soir au lieu in-
digne d'avance poui le campement. Comme d'habiles marins, ces enfants
des prairies marchent des journees entieres ii travers des cuteaux et des
vallons qui, ii I'oeil de I'ctranger, n'offient rien de distinctif, et ils arrivent
le soir, quelquefois meine au ipilieu des tenebres, pricisement au point
designe.

Nous campames de bonne heure, attendant avec hate le rapport des
eclaireurs. Le premier qui parut fat mou chasseur; il n'avait point vu de
bisons, mais, en revanche, il apportait deux grues, dont I'une mesurait huit
pieds et trois ponces d'enverg\ne. Get oiseau, dont la chair est de mau-
vais gout, abonde dans cette partie du pays ; il se nourrit de racines qu'il
deterre et qu'il arrache avec son bee. Blesse, il devient un redoutable ad-
versaire ; alors portant la tete a. la hauteur d'un homme, il poursuit a son
lour le chasseur, et s efTorce de lui arracher les zeux. II est arrive que de
jeuncs sauvages ont eu le ventre perce et les intestines devores par cet
oiseau furieux.

Vers I'entree de la nuit, tous etaient de retour, ii I'exception de deux
hommes; I'ou avait remarque des traces toutes fraiches. Le lendemain, le
nombre ties decouvrenrs fut plus grand encore. Vers 10 heures du matin,
les deux jeunes chasseurs qui avaient decoucho revinrent charges de viando
fraiche, et, le soir, cet article dtait en abondance. Mais viande de tanreau
n'est pas tres-r.greable au palais, ni trcs-facile ii digerer : cependant ou me
servit le raeilleur morceau, la langue ; " car, me dit-ou, vous n'etes pas ac-
coutume ii manger de cette viande, et en goutant quelque autre piece vous
prendriez le mat de boeuf.''^ Le mal de boeuf, corame ou peut le soupcon-
ner, n'est autre chose que I'indigestion. Cette viande paraissait avoir la
consistance du cuir, et, comme la mastication n'occupe pas long-temps nes
chasseurs bouillants de sante, ils en ttaient parfois les dupes. Enfin nous
pensions pouvoir rejoindre le lendemain les troupeaux de vaches.

Je ne soignis aux chasseurs, qui laisaient eclator la joie la plus vive et
la plus bruyante. Nous avions a peine chemine pendent une demi-heure
que nous apercumes une bande de boeufs. On les nconnait, de fort loin,
par leur maniere de se tenir beaucoup plus eloignes les uns des autres que
ne le font Ips vaches. Nous avan^ions au petit galop, et nous en etions ii
sept ou huit arpents, qu' ils paissaient encore paisiblement. Alors nous
mimes nos chevaux au pas ; car, si Ton y va doucement, ils ne fuient que
lorsnu'on est fort pres d'eux.

Toutefois, pcu soucioux de notre visite, ils donnaient des marques de
leur raauvaise humeur. Les uns, de leurs pattes de devant, lan9aient dans
I'air des tourbillons de poussiere ; d'autres se roulaient sur la cerre comme

Doc. No. 51.

les chevaux, puis, avec I'agilite d'un lievre, se relavient tout-a-coup.
Quelques-uns, plus soigneux de leur gravite, nous regardaient fixement,
laissant echapper, de temps en temps, un beuglement sourd et compnme ;
les raouvements saccad6s de leur queue nous montraient cependant que
notre presence ne leur etait pas plus agreable qu'a leurs compagnons.

Enfin le signal est donne ; nous lan9ons nos coursiers, et devant nous
fuient avec legerete ces epaisses et lourdes masses. Plusieurs sont ren-
verses du premier coup ; d'autres, se sentant mortellement blesses, s'arre-
lentfurieux, dechirant la terre ou la frappant des deux pieds de devant,
comme des beliers. Sous une touffe serree de poil, leurs yeux etincelent
de rage, et avertissent les plus intrepides chasseurs de se tenir a une dis-
tance respectueuse. . „ . , .
Cette course, qui dura un quart-d'hcuie, etait a peine finie qu on aper9ut
un nuage de poussiere qui s'elevait du haut d'une coUine, a plussicurs
milles de nous. Je n'avais pas en le temps d'eu demander la cause, que
chacun avait saute sur son coursier, et ciiait en galloppant: la vache! la
vachef Ten ne prit pas meme le temps d'arracher la langue a une dizaine
de gros boeufs, restes morts sur le champ. Bientot tous les cavaliers etaient
sur la hauteur d'ou etait parti le signal.

Arrive sur les lieux, je m'imaginais voir de pres ce qu'on m annoncait
avec tant d'assurance ; mais, ii ma grande surprise, de quelque cote que se
dirigeassent raes regards, je n'apercevais rien. Enfin I'on me fit remar-
quer, n une distance de dix a douze milles, des points qui, par le mirage,
paraissaient etre des arbres; c'etait la ce que nos chasseurs reconnaissaient
etre non pas des arbres, ni meme des boeufs, mais des vaches.

Tous les chasseurs reunis ici etaient au nombre de 55. Les chevaux
semblaient partager la joie et I'ardeur de leurs maitres. Moderer I'aprete
du coursier etait chose difficile ; mais moderer celle du cavalier I'etait bien
davantage. Le grand point, si I'on veut reussir dans cette chasse, c'est
d'avancer fort doucement jusqu'a une distance d'environ deux portees de
fusil. Si, comme cela arrive lorsque les chasseurs n'ont personne pour
les diriger, les meilleurs coursiers sont lances de loin, les plus faibles ne
peuvent plus atteindre leur proie ; de la, discorde, querelles, haines et
toutes leurs suites.

L-instinct des bisons les porte a s'assembler en masse lorsqu'ils sont at-
taques. Les boeufs qui sont eloignes des vaches se reunissent d'abord,
puis fuient devant les chevaux jusqu' a ce qu'ils rejoignent les vaches ;
celles-ci se rassemblent a leur tour, et fuient devant les premiers, mais
avec beaucoup plus de rapidite. Pour atteindre les vaches, il faut done
traverser I'epaisse phalange formee par les boeufs, et c'est la ce qu'il y a
de plus dangereux. Voici un fait qui vient a I'appui. Pendant la chasse
de I'ete dernier, un sauvage, jete loin de son cheval qu'un boeuf avait
renverse, fut, pendant pres d'un quart-d'heure, le jouet d'un de ces ani-
maux furieux ; tout en fuyant a la course, il lan^ait et relan^ait le mal-
heureux chasseur a 15 ou 20 pieds en Pair, le rattrapant toujours sur ses
comes. Pour donner une faible idee de I'imraense force de ces animaux,
il suffit de dire qu'un d'eux, venant a traverser la file des charrettes, se
porta sur une, et d'un coup de come la fit pirouetter deux ou trois fois.
Or cette voiture, trainee par un chcval, portait une charge de plus de raille

jivr6s«

Un autre danger qui n'est pas moindre est celui de se trouver dans la
direction des batles ; lan(jees de tout cote, eiles sifflent d'une maniere ef-

)ut-a-coup.
fixenient,
comprime ;
sndant que
jnons.
jvant nous
s sont reu-
ses, s'arre-
de devant,
: etincelent
' a. une dis-

'on aper9ut
plussicurs
cause, que
: vachef la
une dizaine
liers etaient

n'annoncait
cote que se
; fit remar-
r le mirage,
)nnaissaient

les chevaux
irer I'aprete
I'etait bien
;hpsse, c'est
c portees de
rsonne pour
3 faibles ne
s, haines et

'ils sont at-
ent d'abord,
les vaches;
miers, mais
il faut done
ce qu'il y a
nt la chasse
boeuf avait
I de ces ani-
Kjait le mal-
ours sur ses
es animaux,
harrettes, se
ou trois fois.
^lus de mille

uver dans la
nianiere ef-

Doc. No. 51.

frayante au milieu de tourbillons de poussiore, qui ne permeltent pas de se
voir a dix pas. Dernitrement, dans une de ces courses, un horame eut le
ventre percc par une balle ; heureusement cette blessure ne fut pas mor-
telle. En une autre occasion, la balle traversa le capot, la chemise, la
peau et la chair d'un chasseur, et all s'arrtter sur les os de I'estomac. Par
bonheur aucun de ces accidents facheux n'a attriste notre voyage. L'on
pent croire qu'en viie de tous ces dangers le chasseur ne peut se defendre
dune certaine crainte, assez vive pour se peindre sur sa figure.

La rapidite avec laquelle ils d(5chargent leur fusil est etonnante : il n'est
pas rare de voir trois bisons abattus par le morae chasseur dans I'espace
d'un arpent. Quelquesuns meme tirent jusqu'il cinq fois, tandis que leur
cheval parcourt cette distance a la course. Voici leur maniere de charger :
le premier coup seul est bourre ; pour les suivants, ils amorcent, versent
la poudre, puis ayant la bouche pleine de valles, ils en laissent tomber une
dans le fusil ; la salive I'y fait attacher a la pondre au ford du canon. Ce-
pendantle coursier est abandonne ti lui meme; mais il est si bien dresse,
que, lorsque son maitre se penohe d'un cote ou d'un autre, il le comprend,
et obeit a I'instant.

Apres la premiere course, qui dura environ une demiheure, je comptai
169 vaches. Nous campames pres de ce lieu. lie lendemain, dans une
nouvelle course, ou en abattit 177. Le troisieme jour, plusiers cavali«rs se
reposerent; ceux qui coururant rapperterent au camp 114 vaches; le
quatrieme jour, 168 vaches furent tuees. En tout c'etait 628 vaches. On
serait porte a croire que deja nous deviona avoir une charge suffisante pour
nas 213 charrettes ; il s'en fallait neanmoins de beaucoup que nous I'eus-
sions : car une grande quantite de viandes est perdue par la maniere dont
on s'y prend ici pour depecer et preparer la chair du bison.

La course finie, le chasseur place I'animal sur les genoux ; puis il lui
etend les pattes de derriere : cette position le sontient sur le ventre. On,
commence par enlever la petite bosse ; c'est une eminence de chair, d'en-
viron trois livres, qui se trouve au haut du con, et tient a la grosse bosse.
L'on ouvre ensuite la peau sur le dos, et on la leve ; apres quoi l'on Spare
I'animal. Voici les details et la nomenclature de cette operation.

1" Les deux depouilhs se levent sur les cotes, depuis les epaules jusqu'
aux hanches : elles sont separees des viandes de dessous par une conche
cartilagineuse ou plutot une peau mince ;

2" Les filets, nerfs enveloppes de viande qui lient les palerons aux
hanches;

3" Les bricoles, deux bandes de gras qui descendent de dessus les epau-
les jusqu'an bas du con ;

4"^ Les petits filet, du con, petits nerfs envelloppes de viande, qui pren-
nent naissance vis-u-vis I'extremite des gros filets ;

5" Le dessus de croupe, qui se prend au haut des flancs ;

6" Les des epaules ;

7" Les dessons d'Spaule, lits de viande entre les c6tes du brochet et les
epaules ;

8" Le pis, partie grasse qui contient le pis ; elle s'etend sous le ventre et
dans les Uancs ;

9" Tjc ventre, partie charnue qui tient an bout des cotes, et sontient les
intestines;

10" La pause, que les metis regardent comme un morceau friaud ;

11° La grosse basse, qui a sa plus grande hauteur vis-a-vis Irs palerons j

fl'^'

Doc. No. 51.

elle est formee par des as minces, larges, inclines en arriere, etant dans le
.squellette ce qu'est la rangoe d'arotes sur le dos des poissons. Cette partie
a un gout deliceux.

12" Le gras on siiifdu dedans du corps ;

13" Les plats-cotes on cotelettes ;

14" La croupe ;

15" Le brocket, viande qui couvre restomac ;

IG" La lanque.

Le reste demeure sur le champ ; c'est I'heritage des loups. Eparer est
une operation qui fait suer le chasseur; nos gens y deploient une habilete
et une rapidite vrairaent etonnantes. On en a vu, en dix heures de temps,
tuer dix animaux, et les eparer a eux seuls. La forte transpiration les
atterant considerablement, ils out le soin de semunir d'un petit baril d'eau,
transporto sur les charettes qui voict a la viande. On donne ce nom aux voi-
tures qui se rendent au lien de chaise, et qui servent a rapportcr les vian-
des au camp. Sans ce secours, ils souffrent horriblcment dc la soif ; le
moyen qu'ils emploient pour diminuer ce tourmcnt, est de manger crus les
feuillets on les parties cartilagineuses des narines. Si la farin les prend,
ils avalent les rognous, qu'on lait cuire en les trempant dans le fiel ; d'au-
tres, dit-on ne prennent pas meme, cette precaution et les devorent tout
crus.

Toutes les viandes sont tranchtos par les femmes, qui les devoulent
dans leurs mains, donnant une upaisseur d'un quart de ponce a cette
longue laniere, qu'elles etendent ensuite sur des grils, comme des pieces
de linge. Ces grils sont formes de petites perches posees horizontalement,
et ii deux ou trois rangs, sur des trepieds de bois. Aprcs quelques jours,
ces viandes sont scches ; on plie, et on attache en ballots du poids de 60 a.
70 livres, les dessus de croupe, les depouilles, les dessoux d'opaule, les
grosses bosses et les ventres. Le reste est pile Ti coups de floaux, des
peaux servant d'aire. Cette viande, ayant Cte prealablement exposee a
une forte chaleur sur un gril de bois vert, est devenue cassante et facile il
reduire en poudre. La graisse de I'interieur, hacliee et fondue dans de
grandes chandieres de tole, est vcrsee sur la viande |)iU'e, que Ton brassc
avec des pelles jusqu'a ce que toutes les parties soient bien imbibees ;

f)uis on emplit de ce melange des sacs de peau, dont on ne s'est pas donne
a peine d'oter le poil. On appelle taurcaux ou pimi/cchiijan les sacs ainsi
remplis. Si la graisse qu'on a employee est celle du pis, ce sont des tail-
rearix fins. Quclques-uns y melent des fruits seches, tels (}ue poires,
cerises; on les apelle alors tdiiraaux a graines, T^es gastronomes jugent
la premiere cspece bonne ; la seoonde, meilleure ; la troi.sieme, tres-bonne.
Pour donner une idee de la diminution de ces viandes, il sufFit de faire
observer qu'on ne tin; d'une vache qu'un domi-taureau et les trois-quarts
d'un ballot de viande ; de maniere que les plus economes calculent (pfil
faut liuit ou dix vachcs pour former une charge.

Pour nu'ttre les peaux en pnrchcinni, apres les avoir lendues sin des
cadres, ou les gratte en-dedans avec un os aiguise, et en-debors avec une
petite gratte Cf)upante, propre a eidever le poil ; c'est la I'ouvrage des
femmes. Les hommes concassent les os, (lu'ils font bouillir dans I'eau
pour en extraire la graisse de inoelle, emjiloyeu j)Our les frilures. Cette
graisse est conservoe dans les vessies des aidmaux. II faut faire consom-
mer les os de deux vaches, avant d'obtenir asscz de graisse pour cmplir
une vcssie, qui en contient 12 livres.

efant dans le
Cette partie

Eparer est
; une habllete
res de temps,
nspiration les
it baril d'eau,
nom aux voi-
•tcr les vian-
Ic la soif; le
inger crus les
rin les prend,
le fiel ; d'au-
devorent tout

es devoulent
once a cette
ne des pieces
izontalement,
lelques jours,
poids de 60 a
d epaule, les
le floaux, des
it exposee a
ite et facile il
due dans de
e Ton brassc
en iinbibees ;
L^st pas donnt'i
les sacs ainsi
sont des tau-
I (|ue jioires,
loint's jugent
V, (rt's-bonne.
sulFit de f'aire
s tniis-cpiarts
dculcnt (pfil

iducs sin dos
lors avec uno
lOiivrage des
lir dans I'eau
turcs. r«!ttc
"aire consoni-
e pour cinplir

Doc. No. 51.

Les quadrupedes de ces prairies sont le bison ; le cabris, espece de ga-
zelle ; le chevreuil ; le petit chien de prairie, qui tient du renard ; le blai-
reau ; le lievre, different de celui des bois qu'il surpasse en grandeur et en
agilite ; le rat, ressemblant il I'ecureuil et se multipliant prodigieusement ;
le loup, en nombre immense, et dont les hurlements empechent de dorrair,
ceux qui n'y sont pas accoutumcs; enfin Pours blanc, dont un individu
fut vu, cette annee, au lac du Bois-Blanc, sans qu'on ait pu le tuer.

Tandis que nous longions le lac du Diable, nappe d'eau d'environ 10
milles de long sur 2 de large, quelques cavaliers poursuivirent une petite
bande de vaches. L'un d'eux etant tombe de sa raonture ne put rejoindre
son cheval, qui continua lesteraent la poursuite comme s'il eut du faire
grand ravage ; taitt ces animaux ont de passion pour la chasse. Voici un
trait d'un autre, coursier plus intelligent. Son maitre, ayant plusiers
chevaux, laissa celui-ci, son favori, pour qu'il se reposat, et en partant il
recommanda a sa femme de I'attacher ; ce qui ne fut point fait. S'aperce-
yant qu'on etait parti sans lui, le noble animal donna apres nous, nous
joignit au moment de la course, s'elanca dans la melee, comme s'il eut ete
fouette ; puis, suivant la vache dans tous ses detours, il semblait attendre
qu'elle tombat. La course 'finie, il s'en revint hennissant aupres de son
maitre, qu'il sut bien retrouver, quoique les chasseurs fussent disperses ca
et la sur une etendue de plusieurs milles. Quand on charge de campe-
ment, les loges se trouvent dans des positions si differentes, qu'un horame
cherche quelque-fois long-temps pour retrouver son gite ; mais le cheval,
quoiqu'il ait ete laisse libre a (juelque distance, revient a une heure mar-
quee ; sans faire aucun detour, il va droit a la loge de son maitre, et frap-
pant la porte du pied, il demande imperieusement le prix de la journ6e, sa
mesure d'orge.

Le 25 nous carapamcs sur la riviere Chayenne, la branche la plus longue
de la Riviere-Rouge ; nous y vimes d'immenses troupeaux de vaches.
Sur un espa^e d'environ un arpent en superficie, je comptai 220 de ces
animaux ; on les bords de cette riviere etaient ainsi converts a perte de
vue et dans toutos les directions. Qu'on juge maintenant, s'il est possible,
de la richcsse de ces prairies. N'cst-il pas deplorable que la main gene-
reuse, (jui depuis si long-temps distribue le pain quotidien a tant de peuples,
n'en soit pas encore connue I Les metis chretiens ne sont rien compares
ii tant de nations (jui se nourrissent constararaent et exclusivement du
produit de cette chasse .

Comme j'acconipagnais presque toujours les chasseurs lorsqu'ils quit
taient le cam[), je fus t<'moin do leur situation perilleuse dans la premiere
course (ju'ils fuent en ce lieu. S'etant mis ii la poursuite d'une nombreuse
bande de vaches, ils en etaient an plus fort do I'ordeur et de la vitessc, lors-
(ju ils arriverent, ])("le-mele avec ces animaux, sur le haut d'une cote escar-
pee et semee de roches, ou culbuterent et roulerent ensemble vaches. che-
vaux, cavaliers, dans une telle confusion, qu'on ne pent s'expl:(|uer com-
nient aucun d'eux ne soit restu mort sur le couj), ou assomme contre les
pierres, ou ('erase par ceauxtpii suivaient. Vhi scul homme perdit connais-
sance, et se remit bieiitol ; une couple de chevaux se relevf'rent en boitant-
et (iuel<iues vaches eurent les pattcs cassees. Les cavaliers dt'sarconnes
se releverent en poussant des eris de joie pour rassurer leurs compngnons,
et se remirent a la poursuite, faisant chuiuer le fonet a (pii mieux mieux,
ann de rrprarer ie temps jjcrdue ; car, cummc on pcut Ic pcnscr, !u vachc
ne les avait pas attendus. Quand ji mo jus assure (ju'il n etait rien arrive
DOC. 51.— 4

Doc. No. 51.

de facheux, je continual a suivre, jusqu' a ce qu' etant parvenu a une
prarie unie, je melancai parrai les chasseurs, et abattis une vache. Je
m'en tins la, quoique je me sentisse tente d'aller plus loin ; mais je n'avais
joint de raison de m'exposer au danger et au blame.

Un cliasseur, au retour de cette course, ayant suivi la petite riviere dans
ses detours, avait reraarque des traces laissees par le castor. Le lendemain,
il tendit pieges, et en tua cinq. J'allai moi-meme voir leur chaussee, ou-
vrage vrairaent admirable. En cet endroit, il n'y a debois que de petits
saules de la grosseur du doigt ; cependant cette chaussee est si solide
qu'elle sert de pont au bison : je pus avec facilite la passer a cheral.

Depuis plusieurs jours le camp etait dans une disette entiere de bois, la
provision que nous en avions faite a Pembina etant epuisee. On se seryit
de fiente, de cotes et de palerous de vache, pour alimenter nos feux et faire
cuire les viandes necessaires a I'usage journalier. Ce feu est ardent, sur-
tout quand les fumiers sont bien sees ; mais il laisse echapper une furaee a
laquelle un nez etranger ne se fait pas aisement. Nos travaux souffraient
done de la disette de bois ; le soleil n'avait plus asez de force pour secher
les viandes, ce qui exigeait I'aide du feu. Nous fumes en consequence
obliges de quitter ce lieu pour nous rendre aux iles du Lac au Bois-Blanc,
c'est-a-dire aux bouquets de bois qui environnent ce petit lac.

Ce lieu es des plus pittoresques, et offreles points de vue les plus beaux
et les plus varies. Le lac, qui n'est qu'un bassin entoure de collines fort
hautes, renferme une eau tres-salee ; mais il est environne de sources
deau douce assez abondantes. Les pentes des collines sout boisees de
chene, de frene et de bois-blanc. De leur sommet, ou apercoit a une
petite distance, la Maisori du chien, colline qui sert de ve dette aux Sioux,
pour reconnaitre leurs ennerais ; d'un autre cote, sout les hauteurs appeles
Grands- Coteaux : elles se prolongent et long du Missouri, sur une ligne
parallele aux Montagnes-Rocheuses. De notre campement, sur un bon
cheval, ou pouvait se tendre au Missouri en une journee de marche, la
distance n'etant que de 25 lieues.

Arrives dans ce campement le 2 octobre, nous y demeurames juscju'an
16, ayant suns cesse le bison autour de nous en tri's-grande abondance.
Le 10, il y eut une forte chute de neige, et le thermometre se tenant con-
stamraent pendant deux jours a 5" au-dessoux au zero de Reaumur, la
glace devint solide sur le lac. Six jours apres, la temperature d'adoucit,
et la neige disparut. Ce froid ne retardait en rien nos travaux ; an con-
traire, chacun craignani un hiver premature travaillait nuit et jour ; les plus

fiuresseux se faisaient violence, de peur que les plus diligents, ayant fini
eur charges, no repartissent sans les attendre.

Je n'aurais pas voulu laisser ces troupeaux sans prendre une juste idee
de leur taille et de leur conformation. Comrae dans les autres especes, le
male es plus gros que la vache : ses cornes paraissent a peine au milieu
dune toutfe de polls qui lui couvren: une partie de la tete et du con, et
lui donnent une mine tout-a-fait etrange : la va(;he, au contraire n'est point
pourvue de cette criniere, de sorle (jue ses comes saillantes la lout recon-
naitre de lien. Je mesurai un boeuf de taille moyenne, et je lui trouvai 8
pieds et 9 pouces de tour ; 9 pieds et 2 pouces de longueur ; 20 pouces du
nez au haut du front : 1 pied et 3 pouces de <jueue : 14 pouces entre les
deux yeux. La plus longue cote de la bosse, inclinee en arriere de 20
UegiOs bui i'upiiie Auisak-, avait 20 puuit!.^ de iongUeUr.

Quoique le voyage d' ete suit plus favorable pour prendre les vcaux et

Doc. No. 51.

parvenu a une
ae vache. Je
nais je n'avais

te riviere dans
Le lendemain,
• chaussee, ou-

que de petits
3 est si solide
L cheral.
iere de bois, la
On se servit
)s feux et faire
ist ardent, sur-
?r une furaee a
aux souffraient
ce pour secher
n consequence
au Bois-Blanc,
c.

les plus beaux
le collines fort
ne de sources
out boisees de
apercoit a une
!tte aux Sioux,
mteurs appeles
I, sur une ligne
nt, sur un bon

de marche, la

rames juscju'an
ide abondance.
se tenant con-
le Reaumur, la
ature d'adoucit,
vaux ; an con-
t jour ; les plus
3nts, ayant fini

I une juste idee
itres espf'ces, le
)eine au milieu
e et du con, et
aire n'est point
s la lout recon-
je lui trouvai 8
; 20 pouccs du
out'os entre les
J arril're de 20

e les vcaux et

les priver, j'eu tentai nt-aumoins I'essai a ce voyage. Un chasseur en
poursuivit un, et le prit au collet ; mais, apres cinq ou six jours, il mourut
d' avoir trop couru, me dit-on. Pour moi, je pense que ce fut d'enniii, car il
refusa de manger pendant ces six jours. Au printemps, ces veaux se privent
facilement ; et quand ils sont demptes, ils deviennent tres-utiles. Un
habitant qui en avait dresse un a la charrue, labourait sans difficultic avec
cet animal seul.

Enfin, le 16 octobre, nous repartimes, emportant sur nos voitures 1,776
vaches tuees par 55 chasseurs. Cette viande formait 228 taureaux. 1,213
ballots de viande seche, 166 boskoyas ou sacs de graisse, pesant chacun 200
livres, et 556 vessiss de graisse de moelle, de 12 livres chaque : le tout,
calcule au taux le plus modere, valant un peu plus de dix-sept cents livres
sterling. Les frais de voyage, gages d'emplojes ne s'elevant guere qu'a
£200, il reste £1,500, gagnes par 55 chasseurs dans Pespace de moins de
deux mois, a compter du jour du depart au jour du retour.

Nous etions en tout 309 ames; j'avais catechise regulierement 68 en-
fants ; la messe s'etait dite tous les jours ; Dieu etait servi et glorifie par
I'union cpii rcgnait entre tous les membres de notre petite communante.
Deux fois le feu avait etc mis a la prairie, et chacpie fois une pluie piovi-
dentielle 6tait tombee a propos pour Peteindre. Pleinsde reconnaissance,
nous nous en retournious. chacun rendant graces a Dieu du bonheur ([u'ils
avaient eu d'etre accompagnes d'un de leurs pasteurs ; car c' etait a son
influence qu'ils attribuaienl les enormes charges quils remportaient.

II est facile de comprendre que, s'il ne se trouve (juelqu'un qui joigne a
I'influence de son caractcre la force des paroles pour raaintenir la Concorde
et I'union, bientot le di'sordre s'ctablit parmi ces hommes ardents. Le
plus prCt s'eiance vers le troupeau ; il n'est plus possible de le joindre.
Mettant seul en finite une i)roie, a lacpielle tous eussent pris part, il revient
avec 2 ou 3 vaches, lorstju'cn aurait per en tuor deux ou trois cents. C'est
ce ({ui avait fait leur malheur, depuis tjue des pn'tres avaient cesse de les
accompagner dans leurs expeditions rle rhasse. Ainsi, pendant que paisi-
bles au meme endroit, nous amassions a loisir les provisions cjue nous
choississons ; d'un autre cote, les chasseurs de la Riviere Rouge, livres \\
la discorde, voyaient sans cesse fuir leur proie([u"ils ne pouvaient atteindre,
et se desesperaient de leur i)eu de succes. En consi(iuence, ils reviurent
a demi-charges de viande verte ou viande dc taureau. Im semblable voy-
age ne saurait couvrir les frais (juil entraine.

II est indubitable <|u'un piotro ferait beaucoup de bien en suivant les
chasseurs, nou-seulement sous le rapport mati-riel, mais encore sous le rap-
port moral et religieux. Sa presence arrr'terait bien des desordres du cote
desmoeurs; il pourrait catt'-chiser les enfants (|ui, sans cesse errants ne
p«uvent recevoir ailleurs linstruction religieuse ; son inlluence s'etendrait
jusipu's sur les sauvages, ;. la conversion desquels, etant parmi eux, il tra-
vaillerait plus eilicacement. J'eu jiarle par lexprrience ac(|uise pendant
ce voyage : tous ceux (jue j'ai rencontres, a la premiere invitation ijue je
leur en ai faite, sont venus erouter la parole de i)ieu. (iuant a nos (.'hrr-
tiens, il etait ediliant de voir avec ([uel empressement ils assistaienl au*:
catechismes. Plusieurs ont entendue la messe tous les jours ; et tous les
dimanches, 10 a 15 s'approchaient de la sainte table. En ces jours, je
<lonnais une instruction en langue (luj>ays; cette attention plaisait infini-
ment aux metis, aci outuraes a n'entcndic prcclicr ijU en langue
qu ils comprcnnent.

"'■•-'■■ ifiirit;aise.

Doc. No. 51.

•1 r 11 -f f..r.p -,11 nord • nous avions devant nous une
Pour notre retour, il fallait -^^^^^^J^J^^^t,. Pendant cette marche.
n.arche de dix jours suvune l^^^^^^^^J^^^.i^.^^ue nuit le ihermometre de
nous ne pouvions a lu.ueMl^ ItdSns de ze/o : car nous 6tions depour
Reamur marquat 3 a 4 ^^g^^ ^u ^^^^ ,^^^^^ empechcs d y

vus de bois, que la P^^^^"^^." '7, !'„''' ^^ent, feus Ic loisir d'exarainer des
aiouter. Comma nous chimin onsleu^^^^ ^. ^^^^^ ^^ _

'::^^''^^:^^^^'- -^"- " '-''-''' ^"^'^^^^

--r;^ -^ .ud coinme le ^^^-^^^^^^ ^ ^^ ^^ ^^ ^^^
dont elle a ete formoe f /J f I J'^; '^^^ d'un metis, qui, comme moi,
Le22. e pns les d^^^^^^' ,^*r^""Ss mrtions du point ou le 48" de
.vait deux^ bons chevaux de relai. ^^^-^^P-^tJ^^tvlons a nous diriger
lat. N. est coupe par les 9-3 •JV^^"^-^^.' tombames sur un petit

vers le N.N.E. A 2 heures ^f ^J^F-^^-^^^^^^ .i^nde fralchc autour du

parti de metis -gj-^^;i^",„^;:^; V^Snt le cours d/la journce.nous
Lac de Roches ^^^^^^^/^l^'^^Xlet de boeufs. Le soir, noms campumes,
vimesdegrandesbandesde^ aches ei „i^,i.^ie. Nous ne pumes

sans feu et sans eau, par ^"^^, ^^ ; f ^^'t^e^soif ; bref, notre position
prendre de nournture, ce qui ^^'S" ^" .^-^ !'" [^^^^eV du soleil, le lende-
Inait telle que nous ^evions etre inat^^ eux . au ^-^^^ \ ^^^;^ ^^^^,,.

„,ain, nous aions sur la ^^^^^^T^';;^,^^^ d'apaiser notre

La nous trouvames du bois et ^^2^;!^ ^x j/,,^, ,;, ;,.,;,, et le 24, a 11

de Greenwich. Je suis, etc.

,., , Four Snklling, Ortohcr \st, 1849.

(Cnpy.) ^ . „,^,, ,,.., T,.,iv;d at this place on

MA,iu: I have the honor to "T"-' •>■-"' J.^.^'' ;,,,eji!,tely, in

:t^r s;t.tti::i;sju;',:^;;c'a'n;;;p o,- .he ,..uea

them embodied on the map. V^V -^v m 10 feet muddy bottom. From
follo^vs. From Pe.nbina to Red lake ^^\^^^^(^Ze v\^^^^^ gravelly.
Red lake river to Goose "\':^' .^/ ^ j' .^ one mile long half-way
From Goose to Shayen river, 9 lect ' ^ foet of water upon it. From

between Goose and f^y^!^^2:^;:X^-^-^^-y l-'^- /r^.^"
Shayen to post, ai.out (> f^^\t , Ik t m k >, Otter-lail lake is

The portion of R-<1 ^^^'^J- ^^^''^^^^''^'^^^ ; \w^ through Leaf

shallow, and intersected by """^^\" ^^ ^^^.^ fi'.m a point 20 miles east
mouniain. U is heavily |;">''*-'':^'' • ." f "^^^^^^^^ west of Otter-

of road to the lake, an.l there is '^^ j ^ ^ \;^'\' 'o ,\,,s Sioux to the road,
tail lake. It is swampy Irom he '"° f '' 7. "^^ \ue and the Crow-wing

There are three Po^^^f^'^-'^^tr tW cond a^^^^^^^^^ '-^'^'l ^^^^

river: the first about one "V!f. j""J;„!\-,^;,^°r.;\de. but\ery shallow,
third about hall-a-miie. \!''' ^^„„;_;,' 4- ^r 5 wide ; its greatest length
Otter-tail lake is aboiU ten miles long, ""^ ^ f { f j^j^^i,^; j, Uie Ued
in a direction N. 60" E. No islands. As with tne n

ant nous une
cette marche,
n'mometre de
Jtions depour-
empechcs d'y
'examiner des
les sont tres-
nc petrifies se

le fil de celui

i, coinme moi,
t ou le 48'; de

a nous diriger
s sur un petit
Ichc autour du

journoe, nous
oms campames,
ous ne pumes
, notre position
aleil, le lende-

notre couchee*

d'apaiser notrc
?, et le 24, a 11
7^' 40' long. 0.

hcv \st, 1849.
at this place on
im.acdiately, in
le loute pursued

ce, you will find
: Red river is as
y bottom. From
' placos gravelly,
le long half-way
r upon it. From
any laif^e rocks.
Otler-lail lake is
;cs through liCaf
aint 20 miles east
lie west of Otter-
sioux to the road.
1(1 the Crow-wing
>0 yards -, and the
»ut very shallow,
its greatest length
ssissippi, the Ued

t
i
.1-

Doc. No. 51.

river is much more heavily timbered on its right than on its left bank.
The map I leave for you v.ith Mr. Nelson, contains, 1 think, all you will
find necessary in connection with your report. If anything should be
wanting, I can communicate it to you from St. Louis.

Having thus complied with your instructions, and understanding from
Colonel Loomis that you are not soon expected back, I have determined,
upon consultation with some of the officers of the post, and in view of the
conversations I have had with you on the subject, to repair to St. Louis.
I am the more anxious to do so as I learn by letters from home that my
father is very sicJc.

I have the honor to be, with great res])ect, your obed't serv't,

(Signed) JOHN POPE,

Bret. Capt. T. E.

Brevet Major S. Woods, 6th Infantry,

Commanding p.xpcdition to Red river.

{Copy.) - Fort Snelling, October '3d, 1849.

Gentlemen : It is with mucli regret I find myself unable to furnish
you, as you requested, with a detailed account of the expedition of the
past summer to the northern portion of your territory. I have been so
unwell for several days as 1o be iiu'upable of attending to my own busi-
ness here ; and 1 now discover that 1 have barely time to arrange my
affairs so as to enable me to depart for Washington on the next boat.

regret this the more, as I have traversed portions of the country not
before examined ; and am satisfied that nothing more is necessary for the
rapid progress of Minnesota, than a fair statement of the numerous advant-
ages it otlers to persons immigrating to the west. The fertility of the soil,
and the many and valuable water privileges embraced within the bound-
aries of this territory, so far exceed anytliing 1 had previously supposed,
that I am at a loss to express myself with sullicient force to set before the
country, in their true lights, the remarkable features of this portion of the
north-west. The Mississippi and Lake Superior on tlie east, the Red
river in the center, and the Minnesota or St. Peters on the south, enclose
almost an island, unpurallelled for the advantages it olfers to th.e manu-
facturer ami farmer. The only diiliculty (ami that is by no means uni-
versal,) is the scarcity of wood„

This difficulty is almost eniirely confined to the west side of the Red
liver of the north ; hut the heavy timber, abundant on all the numerous
tributaries of this stream from the west, almost does away any fear on this
subject.

The numerous lakes on the maps, so far from indicating a low or swampy
region, are surrounded with high rolling country, densely covered with
oak, and the other forest trees common to this latitude, and are connected
with each other by streams which, with their numerous ra()ids, afford an
Inexhaustible water power.

These remarks are peculiarly ap])licable to that portion of Minnesota
territory embraeed between the mouth of Crow-wing river and the head ot
Red river and Red lake. A more beautiful and fertile country than the
portion, through which I recently passed, I believe does not exist. The
region bor'ering on the lower Red river presents no elevated country, but
is compose. . of the richest vegetable mould, three or four feet deep, and
requiring hardly any attention to make it produce most abundantly. The

" fF

Doc. No. 51.

Red river itself is heavily timbered, on both banks, to its point of intersec-
tion with the parallel of 49 degrees north latitude, and is navigable for
boats of three or four feet draught of water, for four, and some seasons five
months in the year, for 500 miles, and to a point within 125 miles of the
Mississippi.

I cannot, in this short communication, sufficiently set forth to you the
vivid and most favorable impressions I have conceived of your territory.
I think it merely necessary to show to the world the actual state of thmgs
to ensure its rapid advancement. A portion of the pon-' y embraced be-
tween Otter-Tail lake, one of the sources of the Mississippi and Red lake,
has never been explored. Would it not be advisable for your delegate in
Congress to procure, this winter, an appropriation for that purpose'?
Having begun the exploration, I shall, during the winter, execute a map,
and make a report of the region I have seen. It would, truly, be a pleas-
ing duty should I be selected to complete the examination next season.

As I feel deeply interested in the prosperity and welfare of the half-
breed residents on the northern frontier of your territory, from having ob-
served their activity, industry, and law-ebiding character, I am induced to
offer +0 your notice, as the persons most proper to bring such a subject to
the attention of your legislature, some hints as to the proper course to be
adopted tc ensure the protection of the^e people, and the foundation o
a successful i>nd prosperous settlement along that border. The success o
this settlement I regard as the more important, as it is directly in contact
with the possessions of the Hudson's Bay Company, who now exercise
a paramount sway within the American territory, and who are, every year,
drawing from this country, by their fur trade, an immense revenue.

The whole of the Red river settlement was, at one time, within what are
now the possessions of the United States ; but as soon as thio fact became
known, the half-1: reeds were actually forced, by the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany, to remove to the British side of the line. Almost al) the trapping
and hunting is now done within the limits of the territory of Minnesota ;
and as it has been apparent that no protection was afforded by our govern-
ment, and great favors are shown by the company to those residing on
English soil, it is not to be wondered at that the greater portion of the I'.alf-
breeds continue to leraain north of the line. They are, at present, entirely
dependent for their winter's supply of provisions upon the buffalo hunting
on this side, and share equal privileges, as matters now stand, with those
residing o.i American soil .

Three things only are necessary to establish a prosperous and jiopulous
settlement on the American side, within your territory, and these can at
once be effectc ^-v the action of your legislature, with the aid of your
executive and judicial officers : 1st, Let the law against the encroachments
of the citizens or subjects of foreign countries upon our terriiories be en-
forced ; 2d, Memorialize the general government to extinguish the Inchan
title to the lands in that (|uater, and then extend the laws of Minnesota
over the people of the settlement, by establishing courts of^ justice, and
appointing official persons to regulate their affairs; 3d, Throw open,
by means of roads and other facilities, the trade and commerce of the
Mississippi, and introduce among them the currency of the United States,
now much less valued than the notes of the Hudson's Bay Company, pay-
able sixty days after sight in London.

These things they certainly have a right to claim ; and I sincerely hope

Doc. No. 51.

of intersec-
vigable for
easons five
liles of the

to you the
ir territory.
B of things
ibraced be-
l Red lake,
delegate in
; purpose '?
ute a map,
be a pleas-
season,
f the half-
having ob-
induced to
I subject to
;ourse to be
undation o
; success o
y in contact
)w exercise
every year,
ue.

in what are
act became
Bay Cora-
he trapping
Minnesota ;
our govern-
residing on
of the I'.alf-
mt, entirely
alo hunting
, with those

the legislature of Minnesota will adopt, as early as practicable, some
means of alleviating the present condition of these people, and of effecting
objects so desirable as those I have mentioned.

I ?!m, with great respect, your obedient servant,

JOHN POPE.
Messrs. McLean & Owens,

id populous
these can at
aid of your
jroachments
ories be en-
ti the Indian
i Minnesota
justice, and
hrow open,
lerce of the
lited States,
npany, pay-

icerely hope