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Maps, plates, charts, etc.. may be filmed at different reduction ratloa. Thoae too large to be entirely included In one expoaura ara filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many framaa as required. The following diagrama illuatrate the method: Les cartaa. planches, tableaux, etc.. peuvent itre filmAa i das taux de rMuction diff6rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est filmA A partir da Tangle aupAriaur gauche, de gauche A drolte, et de haut 0n baa. en prenant la nombra d'imagas nAcessaire. Las diegrammes suivants illustrant la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 4 k \\ \. \ ..:v > >.- .vr;> >$i ^ ii6 MITCHELL'S GEOGRAPHICAL A SYSTEM OF MODERN GEOGRAPHY, OOMFBIBIira A DESCRIPTION OF THE WORLD, WITH ITS GRAND DlVIftlO AMERICA. EUROPE, ASIA, AFRICA, AND DEBIOMBD won INSTRUCTION IN SCHOOLS AND FAMILIES. S. AUGUSTUS MITgj^MS? ^ O PHILADELPHIA: THOMAS, COWPERTHWAIT & 00. 1840. M HI H Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1840, by 8. AVOUSTVS MITCHELL, In the clerk's office of the district court of the eastern district of Pennsylvania. nvmo B T janes kat, jon. amp brothkk. PREFACE. Tri approbation awarded by the public to Mitohkix's Sohoc i Gso- OBAPHY and Atlas, together with the request of several judicious and intelligent teachers, have induced the author to prepare the following treatise as an auxiliary to that publication ; and he trusts that it will be found equally satis&ctory in matter and execution with the former, and •ecure a corresponding share of public fiivour. The general design of the work is, perhaps, sufficiently indicated by the title-page, it being intended as a reading book for schools, and like- wise to be read in classes by those who are using the author's School Geography, or by pupils who are farther advanced in their studies. This volume, it is believed, will also be found equally convenient to parents who wish to teach their own children, or to adults, who have passed their peiiod of tuition, and wish to acquire instruction by private resting. There is, perhaps, no subject of greater interest, or of more real value in education, than Geography. Nothing tends so much to enlighten and improve the mind, as well as to enlarge the understanding: and the study of that important science is entitled to a prominent place in the education of every young person. Works upon this subject have, from a very early period, attracted much attention; and the ancient geo- graphical descriptions rank among the most valuable productions of the classic ages. In modern times, and especially at the present day, geography has assumed a much more important place among the va- rious departments of knowledge, than at any former period. The science of Geography embraces, in its description, the wide- spread surface of the earth, in all its diversities of form and appearance. It ascertains the bounds and extent of oceans, the dimensions of conti* nents, the position of islands, the course of rivers, the elevation of mountains, and the characteristic features of valleys, plains, and deserts. It includes a knowledge of the peculiarities of the soil and climate, to- gether with the mineral, animal, and vegetable productions of every known region. It treats, also, of the manners and customs, the moral habits and qualities, the social combinations, and the institutions of the various communities and races of men. Geography not only affords valuable information in almost every branch of human knowledge, but is, besides, essential to the practical utility of nearly every precession in civilized society : not only to the transactions and enterprise of the merchant and navigator, but also to the researches of the philosopher, and the exertions of the philanthropist Iv PREFACE. ? f V ' II i The arrangementa of the various countries described in the p.jsent volume, and the general scope of subjects, are the same as in the au- thor's School Geography : the descriptive details are, however, extended in^proportion to the enlarged dimensicnis of this volume. Besides such notice of our own vast republic and the various European states as the limits of the work permit, the political condition and recent changes in different countries have been particularly noticed: those of Texas, Mexico, Guatimala, the various South American territories, with Greece, Turkey, Syria, Egypt, India, and the adjacent regions, are all described with reference to their actual condition. The chief divisions of the British Oriental Empire are exhibited some- what in detail, and, it is hoped, more clearly and distinctly than in any former treatise of the same extent; so that they may be readily under- stood even by juvenile readers. This portion of Asia has been gene- rally described so much in mass, and so obscurely, that the usual deline- ations of its territories have, for the most part, formed, like those of the German states, almost a geographical labyrinth. The new Anglo-Saxon domain, whose foundations are already so widely spread over the Pacific Ocean, comprising the various divisions of Australia, Tasmania, New Zealand, &c., have received a proportional share of attention. These remote regions, the scenes of some of the most striking moral events of the present age, have become of saperior interest to all civilized nations, and especially to those whose language, habits, and feelings, are kindred and congenial. The Geographical Reader is arranged to correspond, in its chief de- tails, with Mitchell's School Atlas, so that those who already have the latter will be in possession of a suitable accompaniment to the first; and individuals who are not, may attain that object at a rate much below the price usually charged for Atlases compiled to illustrate trea- tises of equal extent with the present volume. Though much care has been taken to prevent errors, yet, as in all geographical works, they must be expected more or less to occur : it is believed, however, that such exist only in a very limited degree in the following treatise; and, whenever any inaccuracies shall be dis- covered, they will be promptly rectified. It is the author's intention to subject the Geographical Reader to the same periodical revision as his School Geography, commencing with the next census of the United States, and repeating the process every five years afterwards. As in the former case, the plan and structure of the work will be unaltered^ and such changes only introduced as the progress of discovery and science demands. Philadelphia, March. 1840. CONTENTS. Page Introduction 9 The World 21 AMERICA 33 North America 25 Runian America 34 Greenland 35 British America 36 New Britain 40 Upper Canada 43 Lower Canada 45 New Brunswiclc 46 Nova Scotia, &c 47 Prince Edward's Island 49 Newfoundland 50 United States 51 New England 65 Maine 66 New Hampshire 68 Vermont • 71 Massachusetts 74 Rhode Island 79 Connecticut 82 Middle States 85 New York 86 New Jersey 95 Pennsylvania 98 Delaware 106 Southern States 108 Maryland 109 District of Columbia 113 Virginia 115 North Carolina 120 South Carolina 123 Georgia 126 Florida 129 Alabama 131 Mississippi 134 Louisiana 136 Western States and Territories 140 Ohio 142 Kentucky 147 Tennessee 150 Michigan 152 Indiana 156 Illinois 158 Missouri 161 Arkansas 163 Wisconsin Territory 165 Iowa Territory 167 I* Indian Territory 168 Missouri Territory 171 Oregon Territory 173 Texas 175 Mexico 177 Balize Settlement 188 Guatimala 189 West Indies 192 Spanish Islands 194 British Islands 196 French Islands 200 Dutch, Swedish, and Danish } ^qq Islands ( Hayti 201 South America 203 Colombia 211 New Grenada 214 Venezuela 317 Ecuador 319 Guiana 321 Essequibo, Demerara, and Ber- i noa bice \ Surinam 222 Cayenne 322 Peru 323 Peru-Bolivian Confederation . . 326 North Peru 327 South Peru 229 Bolivia 230 Chili 233 Brazil 257 Buenos Ayres 243 Paraguay 247 Uruguay 24r Patagonia 250 South American Islands 250 EUROPE 252 Sweden and Norway 259 Norway 261 Sweden 263 Lapland 265 Russian Empire 367 Russia in Europe 371 Poland 375 The Republic of Cracow 377 Denmark 379 Iceland 280 The Netherlands 282 Holland 282 (5) VI CONTENTS. I If '■ * i 1: I • Page Belgium fS86 Great Britain and Ireland .... 289 England 293 Walei 300 Scotland 302 Ireland 307 France 311 Spain 318 Republic of Andorra 323 Portugal 324 Germany 327 Auttria 332 PruHia 337 Bavaria 340 Saxony 342 Hanover 343 Wirtemberg 344 Baden 345 Hessian States 346 Hesse Casscl 346 Hesse Darmstadt 346 Hesse Homburg 347 Saxon States 347 Saxe Weimar 347 Saxe Coburg Gotha 348 Saxe Meiningen Hildburghausen 348 Saxe Altenburg 348 Mecklenburg 348 Mecklenburg Schwerin 348 Mecklenburg Strelitz 349 Brunswick 349 Oldenburg 349 Nassau 349 Anhalt 349 The German Principalities .... 350 Schwartzburg 350 Reuss 350 Lippe 350 HohenzoUern 350 Waldeck 350 Lichtenstein 350 Kniphausen 350 The Free Cities of Germany . . 351 Hamburg 351 Lubec 351 Bremen 351 Frankfort 352 The German Territories of i Denmark, Belgium, Prussia, > 352 and Austria ) Switzerland 353 Italy 356 Sardinia 360 Monaca 363 Psta Austrian Italy 363 Tuscany 365 Parma 367 Modona 367 Lucca 368 States of the Church 368 San Marino 371 Naples 371 Ionian Republic 373 Malta 374 Greece 375 Turkish Empire 380 Turkey in Europe 383 ASIA ...387 Asiatic Russia 396 Siberia 596 Caspian and Caucasian Russia . 400 Caspian Russia 400 Caucasian Russia 402 Circassia 403 Daghestan 404 Georgia 404 Imeritia 405 Turkey in Asia 405 Syria 411 Palestine 415 Arabia ^. 420 Mecca 425 Yemen or Sana 425 Muscat 426 Territory of the Wahabees ... 427 Hadramaut 427 Lahsa 427 Idumea 428 Persia 429 Afghanistan 434 Cabul 436 Herat 438 Beloochistan 439 Kafferistan 440 Tartary 441 Independent Tartary 445 Great Bucharia 445 Khokan 446 Khiva 447 Koondooz 448 Kirguis Country 448 Turcomania 449 Chinese Tartary 449 Little Bucharia 450 Soongaria 451 Mongolia 451 Montchooria 452 CONTENTS. VII 427 428 429 434 436 438 439 440 441 445 445 446 447 448 448 449 449 450 ,451 , 451 . 452 Pa«e India 453 Hindoostan 454 British India 463 Bengal 465 MadraB 467 Bombay 468 Tributary or Vaual States .... 470 Hydrabad 470 Oude 470 Nagporo 470 Mysore 471 SaU:a 471 Indore 471 Travancore and Cochin 471 Allied or Protected States .... 479 Baroda 472 Rajpootana 472 Cutch 473 Independent States 473 Lahore 473 Nepaul 474 Bootan 474 Dominions of Scindiah 475 Sinde 475 European Colonies 476 The Portuguese 476 The French 476 The Danish 476 Ceylon 476 Coralline Islands 477 The Laccadives 477 The Maldives 477 Chin India 477 Birmah 480 Anam 482 Siam 485 British Territories 486 British Birmah 486 Britisii Malacca 487 Pulo Pinang 488 Malacca 488 Nicobar and Andaman Isles . . 489 Chinese Empire 489 China 490 Corea 499 Thibet 500 Little Thibet 502 Japan 503 AFRICA 507 Barbary 515 Morocco 518 Algiers or Algeria 521 Tunis 522 Pago Tripoli 524 Barca 525 Beled el Jerid 526 Great Desert 527 Fezzan 528 Tibesty 528 I'ibbooB and Tuarioki 529 Region of the Nile 530 Egypt 531 Nubia 538 Darftir 540 Bergoo or Waday 540 > Kordofan 540 Fertit Donga, &.c 540 Abysiiinia 541 Western Africa 544 Senegambia 546 The Foultths 546 Foota Jallon 547 Foota Toro 547 The Jaloffs 547 The Mandingoes 547 Bambouk 548 Soolimana 548 Senegal 548 Gambia 548 Sierra Leone 549 Guinea 549 Upper Guinea 550 Liberia 550 The Grain Coast 551 The Ivory, Gold and Slave Coasts 552 Ashantee 552 Dahomey 553 Benin 553 Warec 553 Lower Guinea 554 Loango 554 Portuguese Guinea 554 Congo 555 Angola and Benguela 555 Malcmba, &c 555 Moolooa 555 Cimbebas Country 556 Southern Africa 556 Cape Colony 558 CafTraria 559 Hottentots 560 Boshuanas 561 Eastern Africa 562 The Country of the Somaulies . 563 Adel 563 Berbora 563 Gingiro 563 VUl CONTENTS. Ajan 464 Zanguebtr 564 Magadoxa 564 MeUnda 564 Moinbaa 565 Quiloa 565 Portuguen PosaeMlom 565 Hofkla, Sabia, &o 566 Monnmotapa 566 Cazombe 566 Central Africa 566 Kaarta, Manding, &e 569 Bambarra 570 Timbuctoo 570 HouMa « 571 Yaoorie 579 BouBM 579 Bergoo • 579 Yarriba 579 Nyffo, &,c 579 Bornou, &c 573 Begharmi 574 Mandara, &.c 574 African lalanda 575 Azorea or Western lalanda . . . • 575 Madeira 575 The Canary Islands 575 The Cape Verde Islands 576 Fernando Po, &c 576 Ascension 577 St. Helena 577 The Ethiopian Archipelago . . • 577 Madagascar 577 Imerina 578 The Mascarenha Islands . .>. . 578 Bourbon 578 Mauritius, or the Isle of France 579 The Seychelles, ice 579 The Comora Islands 579 Femba, Zanzibar, and Monfia . 579 Socotra 580 OCEANICA 585 Malaysia 589 Sumatra 564 Java 585 Bally, Lombock, Sumbawa, ice. 586 Borneo 586 The Sooloo Archipelago 586 Celebes or Maccassar 587 The Moluccas or Spice Islands 567 The Philippines 567 Australasia 588 Australia 588 Botany Bay Colony 590 The Colony of West Australia 591 The Colony of South Australia 591 Van Diemcn's Land or Tasmania 593 New Zealand 599 Papua or New Guinea 593 Louisiade, &c 593 Norfolk Island 593 Polynesia 593 The Ladrone or Marianne Islands 596 The Caroline Island 596 Central Archipelago 597 The Sandwich Islands 597 The Mendana Archipelago . . • • The Society and Georgian Isl. i ands \ King George's Islands, &c. . . . The Pearl or Paumotu Islands, dec. 598 598 598 599 599 599 The Palliser, Hcrvey,and Au8> 1 tral Islands, «Stc. ..." < ' The Friendly Islands The Navigator's Island 599 The Feejee Islands 599 The Tonga Islands, &c 600 Pitcairn's Island 600 Easter Island 600 The Archipelagoes of Anson i cnn andMagelloB \ ^ GEOGRAPHICAL READER. INTRODUCTION. Obooraphy is the science which treats of the form nnd phy- sical features of the globe. It is a study of the greatest impor- tance as affording a knowledge of the surface of the earth, and of the manners and customs of its inhabitants. At an early period of the world, the necessity of cultivating this science must have attracted the attention of mankind. Their curiosity to know something of the country they inhabited, and the necessity of marking the divisions of their property, would unite in forming the outline, and calling their attention to it. The origin of the science of geography is involved in darkness and obscurity. It was doubtless first cultivated by the early eastern or first civilized nations, the Chinese, the people of India, the Babylonians, and next by the Egyptians. At length the Greek philosophers obtained a knowledge of the science, and from them it passed to the Romans and the rest of the European nations. The Greeks were an acute and learned people. They stu- died geography, and made many valuable improvements in the science, yet their knowledge of the earth was extremely limited, and some of their opinions erroneous and fanciful. They be- lieved that the tropical or hot regions of the earth, from whence we obtain many of the most valuable articles of commerce — spices, gold, ivory, coffee, sugar, &c., were so burned up by the heat of the sun, that no one could live there. They also con- ceived the Arctic regions to be so frozen with cold, that human beings could not exist at all. They were ignorant of the West- ern Continent, 'and their positive knowledge of the world was confined to comparatively a small part of the eastern hemispheie. It is only within the last three or four hundred years, that the erroneous opinions of the ancient geographers with respect to climate, have been renounced. In the progress of the discove- ries made by the Portuguese along the west coasts of Africa, between the years 1400 and 1500, the idea of advancing boldly into the Torrid Zone was viewed with terror ; and it was only by a slow and gradual progress that it was accomplished, and the 10 INTRODUCTION. ■ [ 1 fears entertained respecting the heat of those regions, found to be groundless. So early as 600 years before the Christian era, Thales, a Greek philosopher, by the observation of eclipses and various other circumstances, together with the knowledge he acquired in his travels into different parts of Asia and Egypt, became persuaded of the spherical form of the earth. He is supposed to have been the first who described the circles or zones of the spheres, and the annual progress of the sun from tropic to tropic. He first suggested the location of places by latitude and longitude, and is thought to have been the author of the division of the year into spring, summer, autumn, and winter. His principal disciples, Pythagoras, Anaximenes, and Anaxi- mander, were all distinguished men, and taught his doctrines. The latter made some improvements upon the theory of his instructor, and first demonstrated the earth's motion round its axis, and is said to have been the first Greek who made a map to illustrate the principles of his doctrines. He likewise at- tempted to measure the circumference of the globe, set up the first sun-dial, and discovered the obliquity of the ecliptic. Nearly a century afterwards, Herodotus collected and ar- ranged the discoveries of his predecessors, and has given to mankind a summary of all that he could learn respecting the human race, and the regions which they inhabited. This eminent writer found it necessary to study geography to illustrate his histories, and such was his enthusiasm in the prose- cution of this science, that he visited Egypt, Persia, Assyria, Scythia, and Thrace, and ascertained from personal observation many important facts. In his time it would appear that the separation of the Eastern Continent into three great divisions was completely established, and their boundaries were very nearly the same as those admit- ted at the present day. The extent given to these vast regions was of course owing to a want of information on the part of Herodotus infinitely less than at present. Afterwards, Hippocrates and Aristotle, following the footsteps of Herodotus, collected much valuable information calculated to improve the science of geography, and render it more definite and exact. Aristotle, chosen to be the preceptor of Alexander, demon- strated the spherical figure of the earth ; and, together with other stores of learning, enriched the mind of his royal pupil with the treasures of geographical knowledge. When this great monarch succeeded to his kingdom, he was INTRODUCTION, 11 in the vigour of youth, and possessed witbii:}^^.bi8 own donoinioQ^ all the science then existing in EuropelC •sAnibitiou$.or b^ing known as a legislator, conqueror, and m title himself to these appellations, he ij most eminent for their knowledge in kingdom, to attend him in his expeditions^ his marches, artificers to construct machii ments of his exploits, and historians to recorc His memorable expedition to India constitutes an era in the history of geography, and first opened the knowledge of that interesting country to the people of Europe ; and from the actual surveys, journals, and memoirs of his principal officers, we are made acquainted with a variety of particulars connected with that remarkable expedition, which paved the way to more exten- sive discoveries. Alexandria, the chosen city of this renowned conqueror, in addition to being the commercial emporium of the world, became the fountain of knowledge and science, and the residence for a considerable period of the most eminent literary and scientific men of those ages. From this school arose a succession of individuals, whose labours and discoveries have been of great service to mankind. Here Euclid, by his observations on the heavenly bodies, and his luminous explanations of the principles of geometry, contri- buted much to the improvement of geography, and by Eratos- thenes, the principles of the science were placed on so true and correct a basis, that their accuracy is recognized even at the present day. Hipparchus, who flourished about one hundred and fifty years before Christ, brought geography and astronomy into close con- nexion, by determining latitudes and longitudes from celestial observations. He also divided the heavens into forty-nine constellations, and gave names to the stars. He is likewise supposed to have in- vented the globe as a representation of the earth, and inscribed it with meridians, parallels, and other celestial circles, for the purpose of arranging places thereon correctly. This great man was denominated by Pliny, one of those persons of sublime genius, who have contributed to the benefit and illumination of the human race. The Romans, when they became the conquerors, became also the surveyors of the world. For the purpose of^ determining the extent of their dominions, delineating the line of their marches, and noting the sites of their encampments, surveys of all the conquered countries were completed. Every war Ill I •ii' Pi- I- I 12 INTRODUCTION. produced a new survey and itinerary of the regions, where the scenes of action passed, so that the materials of geography were accumulated by every additional conquest. So much was their attention directed to this branch of science, that when Hannibal was preparing to advance from Spain into Italy, at the beginning of the second Punic war, the ground over which he had to pass had been measured with the utmost care by the Romans. About 50 years before the Christian era, Julius Caesar obtained a decree of the senate to have the whole Roman empire sur- veyed. This vast work was accomplished in about 25 years, and is probably the greatest of the kind ever undertaken : though not performed with the exactness and skill of modern survey- ing, yet it gave a precision to geographical delineations till then unknown. Strabo, contemporary with our Saviour, was perhaps the most exact and critical of all the ancient geographers. He col- lected and combined into a regular system the whole of the information then extant, respecting the different parts of the earth, which he performed with much skill and ability ; and pos- terity is indebted to him for a description of the world as known about the commencement of the Christian era. When the Roman Empire had been enlarged to its greatest extent, and all its provinces well known and accurately surveyed, Ptolemy, about one hundred and fifty years after Christ, com- posed his system of Geography. This, like Strabo's, embraced the extent of the known world. His description of the Roman Empire, being founded on actual survey, is tolerably correct ; but beyond this he has fallen into many mistakes, as his information was vague and imperfect when it related to regions beyond the extremities of the Roman power. In the system by which Ptolemy explained the motions of the heavenly bodies, he supposed the earth to remain stationary in the centre of the universe; and the sun, moon, stars, and planets to move round it in solid orbs, whose motions were originated and directed by one, denominated the Primum Mobile. He represented the earth as a spherical figure, and but as a point in comparison with the rest of the heavenly bodies ; and treated at length of the several circles of the globe, and of their distances from the equator. With all its imperfections, the system of Ptolemy continued in vogue for more than thirteen hundred years, nor was it finally exploded until the researches of modern science exposed its fal- lacy. When the vast fabric of the Roman Empire had yielded to INTRODUCTION. 13 ere the graphy science, iin into ind over 3st care obtained )ire sur- 5 years, : though survey- i till then haps the He col- )le of the ts of the ; and pos- as known s greatest surveyed, irist, com- embraced le Roman )rrect ; but iformation )eyond the ions of the itionary in nd planets originated d but as a odies; and md of their continued in as it finally )sed its fal- 1 yielded to decay, learning, science, and civilization were buried beneath its mighty ruins, and a chaos of ignorance and lethargy ensued ; during which, the inhabitar of Europe, sunk in mental darkness, far from knowing or stii.J system than 500 al body, IS. Era- rho lived means of idria and he former nated the ct sphere, ;ceeds the msidering his time, lUst have ler, made [•h appears )y Eratos- )y modern Caliph of tnsth of a lia. The lin estimate ignorance operation, • I the dimen- parts of its surface, the results were so far from agreeing, one with another, that philosophers began to suspect the earth not to be a perfect sphere, all whose diameters were equal ; and the difficulty was to ascertain in what direction the longest and hhortcst diameters were situated. From considerations, arising from the nature of the earth itself, and the motions to which it is jiubjected. Sir Isaac Newton proved, that the shortest diameter must be that which passes through the centre, from north to south, and the longest, that which passes from east to west. Cassini, and other learned men on the continent, combated this opinion ; but the repeated measurements of degrees on various and distant parts of the earth's surface, performed with the greatest care, and by means of the highly improved instru- ments of modern times, have fully established the truth of Sir Isaac's theory. It has even been estimated that the diameter of the centre of the earth, from west to east, is about 34 English miles longer than that from north to south. Upon taking a medium of all the different dimensions of the earth, it has been found that if it were a perfect sphere, the axis would be about 7,930 English miles, and consequently the cir- cumference about 24,913 miles. Hence, the superficial area of the globe would be about 197,560,000 square English miles, and the length of a degree on a great circle of such a sphere, would be equal to 69.2 English miles. How the ancients came to be convinced of the spherical form of the earth, we have now no means of discovering ; but the con- sideration of a few facts will render its demonstration simple and easy. When we recede from elevated objects, they seem to sink below the horizon, and their disappearance commences with their base ; when we approach them, they seem to rise above the horizon : first their summits are seen, then their middle parts, and ultimately the lower portions. When a ship, for instance, leaves the shore and goes out to sea, first the hull disappears, and then the masts, gradually, from the bottom to the top. When, on the contrary, a ship approaches the land, the top of the masts is first seen, and then the lower parts of the vessel gradually appear. Now, if the earth were a plain, or a flat surface, this would not be the case, but the wholo of an object would disappear or become visible at the same time. And since the same appearances have been observed in every •Tart of the world which has been visited by man, it follows, that *20 INTRODUCTION, !■ ^ti' i "'I the whole siirfaco of the ravth, is, on all sirjps, nearly regularly curvocl ; that is to say, the figure of the earth bears a close alfinity to a sphere. Numerous voyages have been made round the world. Navi- gators, such as Magellan, Sir Francis Drake, Anson, and Captain Cook, have sailed to the west, and come home irom the east ; or sailed to the east, and come home from the west; which could never have been done, if the form of the earth were not sphe- rical. The changes which take place in the appearances of the heavenly bodies in travelling or sailing to dificrcnt parts of the world, also prove that the earth is spherical. In approaching the North Pole, for example, the polar star takes a more elevated position in the heavens ; while, in proceed- ing to the south, the same star appears to sink, and others suc- cessively rise, which were before invisible. These changes can evidently only occur, upon the principleofthe globular form of the earth. In eclipses of the moon, which are produced by the interven- tion of the earth between that body and the sun, the boundary of the shadow of the earth upon the body of the moon is always of a circular form ; and nothing but a spherical body can, in all situations, produce a circular shadow. That the earth is a round body, is thus completely proved by experience and observation : yet, when this doctrine is presented to the mind for the first time, there is some ditticulty in believing that the globe is balanced, as it were, on its centre, without any visible support, while all things at rest on its surface require to be supported. We must, however, consider that the bodies which we see fall towards the centre of the earth are mere atoms in comparison to the earth itself; and that, although their tendency to its centre is another fact proved by, experience, yet it does not thence follow that the earth itself should move towards one point of space rather than towards another. A little reflection will show that there is no inconsistency in supposing the earth, an immense mass, to be at rest, and all things to be retained on its surface by some force analogous to that by which a piece of iron is drawn towards a magnet. This is really the fact ; and a consequence of it is, that on opposite sides of the earth, its inhabitants stand in opposite directions, with their feet towards each other, for which reason they are called antipodes; and every country has its own antipodes. M m iilnrly close Navi- 'aptain ast ; or 1 could )t sphc" of tllP } of the liar star procecd- lers suc- ngcs can irmof the intervcn- indary of is always ;an, m all jroved by presented believing thout any require to we see fall nparison to ts centre is cnce follow ipace rather [isistency in id all things IS to that by 'his is really . sides of the ith their feet i antipodes; THE WORLD. The World comprises five great divisions, viz: America, Europe, Asia, Africa and Oceanica : the second, third, and fourth of them, comprised all that was known to the ancients : hence, this part of the earth is frequently called the Old World, and also the Eastern Continent ; and America, by way of distinction, is often called the New World, and likewise the Western Con- tinent. America is a vast continent, entirely separated from the other parts of the earth. It compri'^cs two great divisions, and was discovered by Christopher Columbus, in the year 1492. Though America is inferior either to Europe, Asia, or Africa in population, and particularly to the former in knowledge, refinement, and importance; yet its vast extent, great natural capacities, and the freedom of its political institutions, will, in time, enable the nations of the Western Continent, not only to equal, but probably much to surpass, the greatest monarchies of the Old World. Europe, though the smallest of the three great divisions of the Eastern Continent, is the first in importance, the most thickly peopled, and the best cultivated. In modern times it has been the point from which civilization and knowledge have been extended to other nations, and its emigrants have peopled all the civilized countries of the other parts of the world. Though Europe was the latest portion of the Eastern Continent that received the light of civilization, yet it must now be con- sidered as the centre of refinement and learning. The most useful inventions in the arts, the finest productions of genius, and the improvement of all the sciences, belong to the people of this region. Asia is the largest and most populous of the great divisions of the globe. It has been the seat of some of the most powerful empires of ancient times, and the theatre of many of the most interesting events recorded in history. CM) '^2 TIIK VVOltLI). ■3 1 ^! 4 ii I ji '1 i V ii I «! IP It was hero our first pnronts wcro crwatofl, and iVoin this quarter the (k'sctnidmits of Noah jHMijjlcd the world allcr the flood. It was also tho hirth-pliicn of our Saviour, the scene of his miraf.les and death, and the fKihl on which the Apostles first published salvation to man. In Asia all has continued fixed as if by enchantment. Wo see empires whoso origin is lost in tho imknown hcginninp;s of time; laws, institutif)ns, and ideas, which have remained unaltered during thousands of years, exhibiting a picture of the domestic life of man, us it existed in the earliest ages. Africa is a vast peninsula, joined to Asia by tho isthmus of Suez. It comprises nearly one-fourth part of tho land surface ol' the globe, l)eing about one-third less than Asia, and three times larger than Europe. This quarter of the world is almost wholly in a state of bar- barism, yet in ancient times its northern countries were among the most enlightened in the world, and still have written languages. They are now, however, among the lowest of the half-civilized nations. Africa is the hottest region of the globe, and lies mostly within tho tropics. Tho influence of a tropical climate extends even to those portions which are in tho temperate zones. OcRAivicA is the last established and least important of the groat divisions of the earth. It comprises a vast assemblage of islands, situated partly to the south of Asia, and partly in the wide Pacific between Asia and America . The discovery of this quarter of the globe commenced after America and tho Pacific Ocean werf) known to Europeans. The interior of some of its larger islands are among the least known portions of the earth, and many of the inhabitants are still in a stale of tho most savage and degrading rudeness. The earth's surface contains near 200,000,000 square miles, of which about a fourth part only is dry land ; the remaining three-fourths are water. Of the entire surface of the earth, America comprises about a 15th part, Europe a 57th, Asia a 13th, Africa an 18th, and the Oceanic islands a 44th. The interior of the earth is entirely unknown to us, as the depth to which we have been able to penetrate is nothing ir oin- parison with its diameter. Many modern philosophers uiu of opinion that the interior is composed of a metallic mass of matter. Its solid contents are estimated at more than 250,000 millions of cubic milej , while its mean density is only 4i times that of pure water. AMERICA. Ambr^ V is u vast continent cotnprisiiiL' one of the grnnd divisions ot' the globe; it contains uhouf three-t* nil)- >f the dry land on the surfuco of the earth, and is wa ?h<'<) on bofli dos by vnst oceans, on the east by the Atliui'ic, ana .1 'in west by the Pacific. It ranged from north to soutli tlirough l'-i5 degif'«!9 of latitude, and in its widest part 113 degrees of longitude, bci"!? in length 1)000 miles, and in average breadth about yOOO; the extent of surface is estimated ut 15,000,()0() square mil ^. America comprehends the tropical and temperate clim.ites on both side:' of tiio equator, with part of the arctic. The vhole of the i; »ii* iiei • north of latitude 55° may be considered us a fro/ n rej'ion- In Greenland, and around Hudson's Hay, mer- cury frf/^'. es in winter, and ice and snow accumulate on the land and watci-, and cover a great part of the country througboui (hij year. The winter begins in August, and continues for nine months. In summer the heat is as great as in New England ; it continues, however, for too short a period to bring grain to maturity, and cultivation is very little practised. Vegetation is too scanty to supply the inhabitants with any considerable part of their food : they therefore live chiefly on seals and other productions of the sea, and on the animals killed in the chase. Between 55° and 46° north, the climate of North America is still severe. In winter the cold is intense, and the snow, which l)egins to fall in November, remains till May. The summer advances with such rapidity, that the season of spring is hardly known. In June the fields aud forests are covered with luxu- riant verdure ; grain is abundunt, and in some portions is culti- vated with success. The temperate parts of North America may be considered as extending from 46° to 37° north latitude. These regions are prolific in grass, the various descriptions of grain, and a variety of fruits are produced in great. abundance. From 37° north to the latitude of 40 degrcx^s south, the climate is hot, and the pro- ducts constitute some n ' the most valuable articles of commerce, being fhi^jfly tobacco, otton, rice, indigo, colfec, sugar, and the \ arious tropical fruits. Bcycirtd latitude 40° south, the climate again becomes cold, and at Terra del Fuego it is severe. At the South Shetland Islands, in latitude b3° and 64° south, the climate is that of (Jr»>»nlandaiid Spitzbergen. Nature in this ci atuicMt assumes an aspect of peculiar mag- nificence; for whether vm' consider its mountains, its rivers, its ('J3) I ' 24 AMERICA, il 1.' •i' ! ■ t I i .'fi; m lakes, its forests, or its plains, America appears to be distin< guished in all those leading features by a grandeur not to be found in the other parts of the globe. It contains a great variety of wild animals ; and, since its discovery, the species usually domesticated in Europe have been introduced, and are now found in great abundance. The birds are exceedingly numerous, and are said to be more beautiful in their plumage than those of the old continent, but in their notes less melodious. The vegetable kingdom is in the highest degree rich and varied, many of the trees are amongst the most ornamental and useful, the fruits are rich and in great profusion, the plants and flowering shrubs exceedingly diversified and beautiful, and almost all the various species of grain necessary to sustain life are cul- tivated, and afford abundant crops. In mineral treasures, Ame- rica surpasses all the other quarters of the globe. South America and Mexico abound particularly in the pre- cious metals, and such ample supplies have been carried to European markets that their value has been greatly diminished since the discovery of the American mines ; all the more com- mon metals, minerals, and precious stones, are found m great profusion, and many of them furnish the materials for extensive and important manufactures. The inhabitants of this continent have been estimated at 45 millions ; of this number about 19 millions are supposed to be whites, 10 millions of the aboriginal race, 8 millions of negroes, and 8 millions of the mixed race, as mulattoes, zamboes, &c. The whites are chiefly English in the north, and Spaniards in the south, with some French, Portuguese, German, Dutch, Danes, Swedes, &c. The negroes are Africans, whom the cupidity of the European races has dragged into slavery, or descendants of the earlier victims of this barbarous traflic. The aboriginal population consists of two distinct races, the Esquimaux, inhabiting the maritime districts of the Arctic regions, and the copper-coloured Indians, who are spread over all the rest of the continent ; their origin has been a subject of much investigation, but the total absence of historical records among the Indians themselves, renders it difficult to arrive at any satisfactory result. It has been discovered that there are remarkable resemblances between some of the languages of Asia and those of the Indians, and hence it becomes nearly certain that they came from the Asiatic continent, but at what period they emigrated it is impos- sible to determine. It is evident that they are a distinct people, being essentially different in several respects from any of the existing races on the eastern continent. I '4 t M NORTH AMERICA, 25 istin- to be iriety iually found 5, and of the h and al and ts and almost ,re cul- , Ame- he pre- ried to linished re com- n great xtensive ed at 45 3d to be negroes, oes, &c. liards in , Dutch, hom the very, or [fie. aces, the e Arctic •ead over iibject of records arrive at mblances e Indians, from the is impos- ict people, mv of the The political state of America presents some striking features and contrasts. The native tribes who still survive, are partly held in subjection by European Americans ; but the greater number wander over their extensive wilds, either in rude inde- pendence, or ruled despotically by their chiefs and caciques. The European colonists, who form now by far the most numer- ous and important part of the population, were long held in sub- jection to the mother countries, the chief of which were Spain and Great Britain ; but the greater part of them have now established their independence, and have generally adopted the republican form of government. Another political element is formed by the negroes, who are mostly in a state of slavery ; a numerous body of them, how- ever, in one of the finest West Indian Islands, have emancipated themselves and become a free people ; while Great Britain has recently bestowed unrestricted liberty on the large numbers by whom her islands are cultivated. There yet remain about five millions of black slaves in Brazil and the United States, besides a considerable number in the other European colonies. Many of the indigenous tribes have become, at least in name and outward forms, converted to Christianity ; but a great num- ber still cherish the crude notions and rude ceremonials of their native faith. The European Americans have commonly retained the religious creed of their mother country, so that, while in the French, Spanish, and Portuguese colonies, the Roman Catholic is the prevailing system, those countries that have been settled by English colonists, are chiefly of the Protestant persuasions. The negroes have generally been instructed in the elements of Christianity. The whole number of Roman Catholics may be estimated at about 25^ millions, of Protestants 16 millions, and of uncon- verted Indians 3i millions. In this estimate, however, the negroes are considered as belonging to the denomination em- braced by their masters. NORTH AMERICA. North America comprises that portion of the New World extending northward from the Isthmus of Darien. The area of this vast region is about 7,500,000 square miles. Its winding outline presents a great extent of sea-coast, which is estimated to amount to about 9500 miles on the eastern, and 3 26 NORTH AMERICA. I If M a I'M * m I f| sorrtewhat less on the western side, exclusive of those on the frozen shores of the northern border. Mountain ranges, peculiarly distinguished by their magnitude and continuity, pervade this quarter of the world. Those of North America consist of two great chains, the eastern and western ; the latter, or Rocky Mountain range, known also as the Chipewayan. Passing through Guatimala from the Isthmus of Darien, it spreads out, in Mexico, into extensive table-lands, crowned by lofty volcanic peaks : running thence through the western regions of the United States, and the British possessions, it finally sinks to a level on the shores of the Polar Sea, west- ward of the Mackenzie River. In its general course it is nearly parallel to the Pacific Ocean, forming the great dividing ridge, or line of separation, between the eastern and western waters, the principal of which have their origin in its rugged declivities. The only other extensive range is the Alleghany, which, run- ning parallel to the eastern coast of the United States, throws off some irregular and rather slightly connected branches diverging into Canada. This consists principally of two paral- lel chains, the Alleghany and the Blue Ridge. These, however, are not so extensive in their range, nor do they attain the ele- vation of the great western chain. The rivers of North America constitute perhaps her grandest natural features, or at least those in which she may claim the most decided pre-eminence over the other quarters of the globe. They are unequalled both in their length of course and in the vast masses which they pour into the ocean. The Mackenzie, the Saskatchawan, the St. Lawrence, the Missouri, the Missis sippi, the Rio del Norte, the Colorado, and the Columbia, are the principal streams. They all rise in the central part of the con- tinent, and, flowing in different directions, pour their waters into the Arctic, Atlantic, and Pacific Oceans. The Mississippi has the longest course, but the St. Lawrence discharges the greatest volume of water. The lakes of North America are numerous and important : those named Ontario, Erie, Huron, Michigan, and Superior, form the largest bodies of fresh water in the world. Com- municating with the sea by the broad channel of the St. Law- rence, and in a country whose population is rapidly increasing, they are becoming of the greatest importance to commerce. Similar lakes extend to the northward as far as the Arctic Sea ; the Winnipeg, the Athabasca, the Great Slave, and the Great Bear Lake ; but these, only distantly connected with the ocean, and frozen for the greater part of the year, cannot serve any commercial purpose. «. .IM; ^1 NORTH AMERICA. ?7 on the rnitude ose of •n and ilso as sthmus j-lands, igh the essions, 1, wcst- 5 nearly ? ridge, waters, cUvities. ich, run- !, throws branches ro paral- however, the ele- grandest jlauTi the he globe, id in the ackenzie, le Missis ia, are the the con- aters into isippi has ic greatest mportant : Superior, (1. Com- St. Law- ncreasing, -ommerce. Tctic Sea ; the Great the ocean, serve any The Plains of the New World form almost as great and re- markable an object as its mountains. In North America, of those more especially worthy of attention, the first L the plain along the Atlantic, between that ocean and the eastern range of mountains. To that belongs the original territory of the United States. It is a region of natural forests ; of mixed, but rather poor soil, and of but moderate fertility. The second is that on the opposite side of the continent, between the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific Ocean ; a country with a mild and humid atmo- sphere, as far north as 55°, but inhospitable beyond that latitude. The most extensive is the great central valley of the Missis- sippi, rich and well wooded on the east side ; bare, but not un- fertile in the middle ; dry, sandy, and almost a desert on the west. This va.-^,t plateau is prolonged without interruption, from the Gulf of Mexico to the shores of the Polar Sea, so that, as has been observed, one of its borders is covered with the palms and the splendid foliage of the tropics, while, in the other, the last buds of arctic vegetation expire. The area of this great plain is estimated at 3,240,000 square miles. Very little information is possessed of the most northern regions of America. Although Hearne, Mackenzie, Franklin, and Back, have penetrated to the shores of the Polar Sea, although the voyages of Captains Parry and Beechy have extend- ed along the greatest part of the coast between the eastern and western seas, although the European missionaries have long resided among the inhabitants of Greenland, yet no satisfactory conclusions can yet be formed of the extent of the American continent to the north, or of the natural peculiarities by which it is distinguished. It was formerly believed, on the authority of BufTon, that the animals of America were inferior in size to those of the Eastern Continent. The researches of modern natui'alists have not only refuted this error, but have established the fact, that where any difference of size exists in animals of the same class, the superi- ority in most cases is on the American side. The animal kingdom of North America embraces a considerable variety of species, some of which are not found in other parts of the world. Of the Bear species, those peculiar to North America, are the Grizzly, Barren, Ground, and Black Bears. The great Polar, or White Boar, is found also in the Arctic regions of Europe and Asia. In North America, it inhabits the continent as far south as Labrador and Hudson's Bay ; its principal residence is on fields of ice, with which it frequently floats a great distance from land. The Grizzly Bear, the most powerfiil and dangerous animal of North America, inhabiting both sides of the Rockv ■«*>■ m i'.- 28 NORTH AMERICA. Mountains, is, when full grown, reported to exceed 800 pounds in weight, and its strength so great, that it has been known to drag to a considerable distance a buffalo weighing 1000 pounds. The Barren Ground Bear receives its name from the circum- stance of its inhabiting only that section of the continent called the Barren Lands, or grounds situated north of 60° ; this is a formidable animal, and is much dreaded by the Indians. It frequents the sea coast in autumn in considerable numbers, for the purpose of feeding on fish. In size it is between the Grizzly and the Black Bear. The Black Bear of North America is different from the European animal of the same name. It has a milder disposition, and lives more on vegetables : its favourite food is the different kinds of berries, and it will not, except from necessity, subsist on animal substances. Of the Deer kind, there are several species not found in the old continent. The Moose Deer resembles the Elk of Europe, but is of a different species ; it is the largest of the Deer kind found in America, and perhaps in the world, being in height to the shoulder full six feet, and weighs, when full grown, from 1000 to 1200 pounds. The Wapiti or American Elk, is second in size only to the Moose, and formerly ranged over all the middle parts of the continent : it is now found only in the remote western districts of the United States and Canada, and also west of the Rocky Mountains. The Indians make bows of the perfect horn, which are highly serviceable from their elasticity ; and from their skins they prepare various articles of dress, and apply them also to other purposes. The Caribou, or American Reindeer, is a different species from the Reindeer of the old continent ; it is found in all the high northern latitutes of North America, and has never been domesticated or used as a beast of draught by the natives, being considered only as game. There are two species, the Woodland and the Barren Ground Caribou. The Virginia Deer is one of the most elegant of the animals of its class ; it lives in large herds, and is found over a considerable portion of North America ; it is said to display great enmity to the rattlesnake, which it contrives to crush by leaping with its fore feet conjoined and dropping perpendicularly on the serpent, bounding away with great lightness, and repeating this attack until his enemy is destroyed. One species of Antelope, the prong-horned, is peculiar to America ; it is a graceful and fleet animal, so swift that it seems rather to fly than leap from rock to rock in the rugged regions which it inhabits ; they live in small families, and are found in the vast plain of the Missouri and Saskatchawan, in the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains. > I- NORTH AMERICA. 20 ouuds wn to )uncls. rcum- called s is a IS. It srs, for frizzly rica is t has a vourite pt from I in the Europe, er kind sight to •m 1000 cond in 1 middle western 5t of the kt horn, id from ly them ideer, is it; it is :a, and liught by are two u. The lis of its iiderable nmity to with its serpent, 3 attack 2uliar to it seems regions found in vicinity The American BisJn, or Buffalo, once common jn the United States, has gradually disappeared before the whiti population ; it now only exists to the west of the Mississippi, and roams over the vast grassy plains in the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains; here it is found m immense herds, amounting, it is said, often- times to from 5000 to 10,000 head ; the flesh is tender and juicy, and the tongue qncl hump, or wig, are, in particular, esteemed great delicacies. The Musk Ox derives its name from its flesh ; when in a lean state, smelling strongly of that substance. It is truly an Arctic animal, being found only in the barren lands beyond the Great • Slave Lake, j nd as far north as Melville Island, in 75°. In size the Musk Ox is small ; the carcase, when cleaned, not weighing more than three hundred weight ; it assembles in herds, and flees at the sight of man ; it is much hunted, both by the Indians and Esquimaux. Herds of wild Horses roam over the great plains on both sides of the Rocky mountains, and are the offspring of the Euroj)eun animal, imported soon after the first settlement of the country. They are found from Texas to the plains of the Saskatchawan, and are of great importance to the Nomadic Tribes, who train them not only for transporting their tents and families from place to place, but also for the purposes of war, the chase, and of food; the flesh of the horse being thus mostly used by the Spokains and several other tribes, and likewise at times by the residents of the Hudson's Bay Company's posts on the Columbia River and its branches. Of the Cat kind, this continent contains several species, all equally remarkable, like their congeners of the old world, for the beauty and diversity of their colour, and the treachery of their disposition. The cougar, or puma, called also the panther, is the largest and most formidable of its class found in Not'th America; it is about one-third less than the lion, and of suflicieut strength to carry a man up a tree ; though now rare in the more settled parts of the continent, it is occasionally met with in the remote districts of the United States. It preys uj)on calves, sheep, &c., but has also been known to attack man. The jaguar, an animal resembling the panther, is found, though rarely, in Mexico ; also the ocelet and tiger-cat. The Rocky Mountain sheep and goat inhabit the same range of mountains from which they derive their name; the latter is about the size of the domestic sheep, its fleece hanging down on both sides like that of the merino breed : the hair is long and straight, coarser than that of the sheep, but finer than that of the domestic goat ; the Rocky Mountain sheep is larger than any 3* nn 30 NORTH AMERICA. i ■ If il:'.. I I'::" I i- m 11) i;' .'!;'•! domestic sheep ; the horns of the ram nre immense, in some of the old ones, so much so as to prevent the animal's feeding on level ground. They collect in flocks of from three to thirty, the young rams and females herding together, while the old rams form separate flocks. The principal fur-bearing animals of North America are the beaver, muskrat, pine-marten, pekan, the Canada lynx, raccoon and ermine. These animals are diligently hunted, both by Indians and the inhabitants of those settled parts of the continent in which any of them are yet found ; their skins make an important item of export to Europe, particularly from Canada ; some of these animals are evidently Decreasing with great rapidity. The well-known beaver is now almost exclusively confined to Canada and the north-west districts of America ; even here, how- ever, their numbers are daily diminishing. The sea-otter also furnishes a large amount of valuable furs, principally to the Russians on the north-west coast. The dog kind exhibits several varieties not found in other parts of the world ; of these, the Newfoundland dog is remark- able for its sagacity, great bulk and strength. The Esquimaux dog, also a large variety, is very useful to the Esquimaux and the traders in drawing their furs and baggage. The North American dog is used in the Hudson's Bay countries, both as a beast of draught and in the chase, and also for food, its flesh being esteemed by the Canadian voyagers or canoe-men superior to all other. Foxes and wolves abound in most parts of the central and northern regions of the continent ; of the former, there are the arctic, sooty, cross, black, grey, and red fox ; of the latter, the Mexican, the grey, red, black, dusky, and barking, or prairie- wolf. Of the opossum, found from Pennsylvania to Brazil, there are several species, of which the Virginia, or common opossum, is well known in the United States ; also, the skunk, marmots of different species, squirrels, hares, and a great variety of other smaller animals. The whale species are numerous on the northern coasts ; the most useful and remarkable are the common and spermaceti whale, and the narwhale or sea-unicorn. The common seal frequents the sea coasts perhaps throughout the world, but is in North America most numerous in high northern latitudes, and is of the greatest use to the Esquimaux and other inhabitants of those frozen regions, furnishing them with all the necessaries of life ; they are of various kinds, as the hooded, harp, fetid, ursine, and great seal. Most of the Birds of North America, and especially those of •il' NORTH AMERICA. 31 )mc of ling on rty, the d rams arc the raccoon both by ;ontinent nake an Canada ; rapidity, nfined to ere, how- )tter also ly to the in other s remark- Isquimaux Tjaux and ^he North both as a d, its flesh >n superior entral and re are the latter, the or prairie - razil, there n opossum, narmots of ty of other coasts; the spermaceti mmon seal d, but is in udes, and is labiiants of cessaries of etid, ursine, Uy those of ■3( the United States, are now rendered as familiar to the European naturalist as those of his own country ; for they have been more ably and more fully illustrated than those of any other part of the world. Rapacious birds are here as numerous as in other parts of the earth, and of a great many different species, including eagles, vultures, hawks, falcons, owls, &c. The white-headed or bald-headed eagle is well known as being the chosen emblem of our own republic. It is common to both continents ; but, while it seems almost entirely confined to the arctic regions of the old world, it abounds in the milder regions of the United States, in the new. The vultures are the great Californian vulture, black vulture, and turkey -buzzard. The first seems to be confined to California and the adjoining regions west of the Rocky Mountains : they build their nests in the most secret parts of the pine forests : they measure from four to four and a half feet in length. Their food is carrion or dead fish, and they will in no instance attack any living animal, unless it be wounded and unable to walk. The black vulture and turkey -buzzard are both well known and numerous in the southern States of our Union, where, not- withstanding their filthy habits, they are protected by law and common usage, being of great utility in devouring putrid animal matter which would otherwise be highly offensive and injurious. The wild turkey is peculiar to America : it is a fine large bird, of brilliant blackish plumage. It breeds with the domestic one ; and when the latter is reared near the range of the former, it is sure to be enticed into the woods by it. Of the duck kind, of which there are many species, the best known is the canvas-back. It is peculiar to America, and is more celebrated than any other for the excellent flavour of its flesh : they are found mostly in Chesapeake Bay and the neigh- bouring rivers. Perhaps the most characteristic of American birds is the hum- ming-bird, remarkable alike for its diminutive size and the briU liant metallic lustre of its plumage : they are most numerous in South America, but are found in the northern continent as far north as 45°. ^ Vast flights of pigeons migrate periodically to different parts of the continent, frequently extending for many miles on each side, darkening the entire atmosphere, and often requiring lour or five days to pass over a particular place. Of the birds of game, the principal are the grouse, pheasant, partridge, &c. The species of grouse are more numerous, and entirely distinct from those of Europe. The largest and most valuable is the Cock of the Plains. Some other of the peculiar \irz ;i 1 SI » }^ I!!' •J: It.,: I 98 NORTH AMERICA. American birds are the mocking-bird, blue-jay, and whip-poor- will. Parrots and Parroquets abound in Mexico; and in the United States there is one species of Parrot. The seas, lakes, and rivers of North America, swarm with a great variety of delicious fish. The cod, so well known in com- merce, is found only in the northern seas. The mackerel and alewife fisheries, along the coasts of the United States, also give employuent and food to great numbers of persons. The shad is taken in large quantities in all the rivers of the Atlantic States, and in the proper season is highly esteemed. The salmon is also found in Canada and the northern rivers of the United States, on both sides of the contin iit, and is espe- cially plentiful in Columbia River. The white-fish, or titomeg of the traders, is caught in all the great lakes from Canada to the Arctic Ocean. It is a delicious article of food ; and as many as 900 barrels have been taken at a single fishery on Lake Su' perior. The Reptiles of America are numerous, and, like the gene- rality of this class in other parts of the world, the majority are apparently useless, and some dangerous. In North America, the alligator does not occur north of the Carolinas and the Red River of Louisiana. In severe winters, he buries himself in the mud, and lies in a torpid state. The rattlesnake is peculiar to the New World, and is particularly formidable on account of the deadly venom of its bite. The Indians, who form the great mass of the aboriginal inhab- itants of America, all constitute, by their natural peculiarities as well as by their languages, a distinct and original people ; and preserve, throughout this vast extent of country and variety of climates, the same essential characteristics. They have a copper colour, resembling that of rusty iron or cinnamon, coarse, straight, black hair, high cheek-bones, and sunken eyes : it has been af- firmed that they are without beards ; but it is well ascertained that this is not the case naturally, but that most of them take great pains to pluck them out. Almost all the Indians near Mexico, and those on the north-west coast, wear raustachios. The American Indians are generally erect, and of fine forms, with few instances of decrepitude or deformity ; they have cleaner limbs, not so muscular, and with less tendency to corpulence than the whites. As a race, they have countenances that are cheer- less, stern and ruminating. Their courage is moral and passive rather than active. They think it cowardice to be affected by calamity, or to give way to passion or feeling. To be always ready and willing to die, and suffer whatever may befall them with constancy, is their idea of the jierfection of courage. In their ■II I ; NORTH AMERICA. 33 )0or- i tlie ith a com- 1 and ) give had is Itates, rivers i espe- itameg lada to , many ,ke Su- 5 gene- rity are merica, ;he Red f in the iuliar to It of the 1 inhab- rities as ; and riety of copper straight, jeen af- ined that ke great Mexico, le forms, e cleaner sncethan re cheer- d passive fected by >e always fall them In their resentments, they are implacable, and never forgive an injury ; at the same time, they are oilen faithful in their friendships, and hospitable and generous. ^ Since the introduction of the horse by Europeans, many of the Ind.an tribes have acquired an astonishing degree of skill in the management of that noblo animal ; among these are the Pawnees, the Comanchcs, the Sioux, the Apaches, Shoshonces, Enneshoors, and other tribes : some of these have also borrowed the use of fire-arms from their European neighbours, but in general they have rejected the arts of peace and civilization. Perhaps there is no tribe among the American Indians so degraded that it has not some notion of a higher power than man, and in general they seem to have entertained the idea of u Great Spirit r"=> .naster of life, in short, a Creator, and of an Evil Spirit, ht mg divided empire with him over nature ; many ,of them have priests, prophets, and sorcerers, in whose superna- tural powers they trust; and most, if not all, appear to believe in a future state. Many attempts have been made, at different times, by benevolent persons to convert the aboriginal tribes to the Christian religion, to teach them the arts of peace and civilized life, and to train them to habits of industry ; but so little has been the effect of those efforts, that many do not hesitate to pronounce it impos- sible to engrafl the European civilization on the Indian charac- ter. Some exceptions, however, to this general failure of the attempts to effect the civilization of the Indians occur in the United States, where the Cherokees and other tribes hold pro- perty, cultivate the ground, and practise the useful arts. North America is politically divided into the Republics of the United States, Texas, Mexico, and Guatimala, which occupy the central and southern parts of the continent. The northern, the eastern, and central parts, contain the possessions of Great Bri- tain ; and the extreme north-western section, those claimed by Russia. The following estimates of the areas in square miles, and population of the respective divisions at the present time, is probably as near an approximation to the truth as circumstances will permit : Russian America. Greenland British America . . United States . . . . Texas Mexico Guatimala West Indies Total. Square miles. Population. 500,000 50,000 840,000 20,000 2,310,000 1,360,000 2,300,000 16,500,000 200,000 60,000 1,500,000 8,000,000 200,000 2,000,000 100,000 2,970,000 7,950,000 30,960,000 (•I 34 NORTH AMERICA. or the population, the white inhabitants are supposed to amount to lOi millions ; the aborigines, or Indians, to 4} millions; and 9 millions 060 thousand are of the negro and mixed races. Total 30 millions, 060 thousand. ii! iri •I li',''' i' mi: I' RUSSIAN AMERICA. That part of North America claimed by Russia, is a territory of considerable extent, and comprises the north-western portion of the continent, being that part of it adjacent to Asia ; it is bounded north by the Arctic Ocean, east by the British pos- sessions, from which it is separated by the 141° of longitude west from Greenwich ; south by the Pacific Ocean and the Oregon Territory; west by J;i:;ring's Strait and the Pacific Ocean. The coast seems to be chiefly alpine, in some parts rising into snow-capped summits ; the most remarkable mountain is St. Elias, which is said to be visible 50 league? from the coast. In this region there are computed to be 1000 white inhabitants, who arc mostly traders ; the savages are estimated at near 50,000 ; they barter the furs obtained in hunting, with the Russians, for fire-arms, beads, tobacco, and other articles. The Russians have a number of factories, or trading establishments, on various parts of the coast : the principal of these are Sitcha, or New Avchangel, Kodiak, and Oonalasku. The Aleutian Islands may be considered as belonging to this region ; they form a long and numerous group, extending west- ward from the Peninsula of Alaska to Kamtschatka. These islands are inhabited by a race of savages, who are mild in their manners and deportment, and display a considerable degree of industry and ingenuity : they dwell in large subterranean man- sions, or rather villages, partitioned into numerous apartments, and containing from 50 to 100, or even 150 inhabitants. These abodes, covered with turf, are almost on a level with the sur- rounding country, from which they are scarcely to be dis- tinguished. Sitcha, or New Archangel, on one of the islands belonging to the Archipelago of George III., may be considered the capital of the territories of Russia on this continent ; it is a village of about 1000 inhabitants, the houses of which, including the fortifications and public buildings, are built of wood, and are neat and well kept. NORTH AMERICA 35 nount : and GREENLAND. erritory portion a; it i» ish pos- angitude I Oregon an. sing into in is St. )ast. In ints, who 0.0,000 ; sians, for ians have lous parts vchangel, ng to this ing west- i. These d in their degree of ean man- lartments, ' These the sur- o be dis- jlonging to capital of le of about irtifications U and well ■^ Greenland, long supposed to be a part of the Continent of North America, until Captain Parry ascertained its complete disjunction, is one of the most desolate and barren regions on the face of the earth. An almost perpetual winter prevails, inter- rupted only by a short summer of a few weeks' duration. From Cape Farewell, in latitude 60°, it stretches northward for 1300 miles, with an indefinite extent beyond: at latitude 78", it has a breadth of not less than 900 miles, which, narrowing to the southward, is, on reaching the arctic circle, reduced to about 400. Greenland is claimed by Denmark, and is often called Danish America : its coasts are resorted to in summer by whalers and seal-catchers. The inhabitants, called Karalits, are an Esquimaux tribe; they are very ignorant and degraded, and seem to be reduced to the lowest degree of barbarism, living on fish and blubber, and clad in seal-skins, having no domestic animals, and displaying no art or skill except in the construction and manage- ment of their frail canoes. Some small settlements have been formed along the western coast, several of which are also Missionary stations, where a kw of the inhabitants have been in some measure converted from their ignorance and superstition, and partially instructed in the doctrines of Christianity. In the northern part of this region, Captain Ross discovered a district which he named the Arctic Highlands. The inhabitants^ who had never before seen an European, were seized with the utmost astonishment, especially at the ships, which they at first imagined to be huge birds with wings. They were found to differ from the other Esquimaux in being destitute of boats ; for though much of their food is drawn from the sea, they obtain it by merely walking over the frozen surface. They have the advantage, however, of possessing iron, from which they frame instruments much more powerful than those made of bone by others of their race. They diflier greatly from them also in having a king, who is beloved, and to whom they pay a tribute of seals, train-oil, and fish. The cliffs on their coast present the remarkable phenomenon of red snow, the nature and origin of which have excited much controversy among the learned in Europe. m NOUTII AMKKK'A ■I ! BllITISII AMERICA. Ij:i TiiR possessions of (Jrcut Dritain in North America are an nsscmblago of vast ilUdclmcd and straj^^ling territories, the rem- nunt of that mighty empire of which the great revolution deprived her. Even in their present dismembered state, however, their extent nnd capabilities might, and probably will, enoble them, one day, to equal some of the greatest of the now existing European monarchies. This country, taken in its full extent, is bounded north by the Arctic Sea, east by the Atlantic Ocean and Baffin's Bay, south by the United States and the Atlantic Ocean, and west by the American possessions of Russia. Its area is equal to about that of the United States. About one-tenth part only of this vast territory is as yet settled by a civilized population. The company which enjoys the exclusive trade of Hudson's Bay, maintains several forts on its western shore ; they have also small forts on the leading lakes and rivers of the interior, called houses, where they are secure against the attack of the Indians scattered over the expanse of these desolate wilds, and can form a store of the articles necessary for the fur trade. Beyond this occupancy they have not attempted to exercise any jurisdiction. The climate is very severe, much exceeding what is felt under the same latitude in the old continent. Lower Canada for six, and Lpper Canada for five months in the year, have a mean temperature below the freezing point, and are buried in perpetual snow ; yet, after tiiat period, the heat of the sun becomes so powerful, that large crops of the most valuable grain can bo rais^-i on the great extent of fertile land of which the territory consists. Upper Canada is finely watered, clad with immense forests of valuable timber, and contains about ten millions of acres capable of culture. Nova Scotia and New Brunswick are well wooded countries, but less fertile ; and though the winters are less severe, the heavy fogs that prevail for a great part of the year, are still more disagreeable than the frosts and snows of Canada. The river St. Lawrence is the principal feature of this region, and one of the noblest river channels in the world. It is difficult to say where it begins. It has been held to issue from Lake Superior, a vast body of water, fed by about fifty streams, of which the St. Louis and Grand Portage Rivers are the principal ,• but, in fact, the lakes are merely connected by short canals, through which the surplus waters of one are poured into the other. These canals bear the local names of St. Mary, St. Clair, De- troit, Niagara, &c. . their m, one ropean by the , south by the 3ut that his vast ludson's lave also r, called Indians ;an form /ond this isdiction. elt under for six, a mean perpetual icomes so lu can be territory forests of ;s capable ill wooded jss severe, ir, are still a. lis region, is difficult from Lake itreams, of I principal ; ort canals, o the other. Clair, De- Noinil AMKUICA. m The last is (iislin;,'iiish< d hv its falls, tho most mngnilwent in the world. From Ji.ik* i (utiirio to Moatnoul, the river is broken by II succession of nnks, cHlajriix U, Hfi*i rupids, which reiulur navigation very danyerous. It is a tier pasiiin^ Montreal that it ntlls in full graiidoiir in n deep continuous channel, conveying largo ships and rails (it)\vn to Quebec. The navigation is blocked up for half tho year liy tho ice, which oven in spring encumbers it for some weeks with (louting fragments. The otlier rivers of Lower Canada aro its tributaries. On tho north arc the Utawas and the Sagueniiy, large navigable rivers, flowing through a region little known : the former is iupposed to have a courso of about 000 miles, but its navigation is much interrupted by rapids ; the latter is remarkable for its great depth and width, and is navigable for 90 miles to its falls ; for the dis- tance of about 50 miles it has the appearance of a long mountain lake. The St. Maurice is also a considerable stream from tho north, and tho Montmorency, which falls into tho St. Lawrence, is celebrated lor its beautiful cataract, which pours a large volume of water over a precipitous ledge. On the south are tho St. Francis ; tho Chaudiere, with a fine cascade rushing down a precipice 100 feet in height ; and the Sorelle or Richelieu, the outlet of Lake Champlain. The Thames, flowing into Lake St. Clair, and theGrand,aro the principal rivers of Upper Canada. Tho St. John, which rises in Maine, is navigable 80 miles by sea vessels, but its course is much broken by falls and rapids. The Miramichi is the other principal river of New Brunswick. Lakes, in Canada, arc on a greater scale than in any other part of the world ; and the united chain forms a vast inland sea of fresh water. The largcstof these, and the largest fresh-water lake in the world, is Lake Superior, which is 450 miles in length by 120 in breadth ; having a circuit of 1500 miles, and covering an area of 35,000 square miles. It discharges its waters through the river or strait of St. Mary, 50 miles long, into Lake Huron, which likewise receives those of Lake Michigan. Lake Huron is 280 miles in length, and 90 in breadth, exclu- sive of the large bay on the north-eastern shore, called Georgian Ray, which is about 80 miles in length by 50 in breadth. An outlet, called the river St. Clair, expands, after a course of 40 miles, into a lake of the same name, 30 miles in length, and 24 in breadth, which again contracts, and enters Lake Eric under the name of the river Detroit, 25 miles in length. Lake Erie, the next link in this great chain, is 270 miles in length, by from 25 to 50 in breadth. The river Niagara, 36 miles long, carries its surplus water over a perpendicular precipice 165 feet high, T^ ttm rj SI i 4 m i li 1 i' m r !l 38 NORTH AMERICA. into Lake Ontario, which is about 190 miles in length, by 40 in breadth. The waters of these lakes are clear and potable, and they abound with fish, among which are trout, weighing from 75 to 100 pounds, sturgeon, white fish, pike, bass, &c. They are navigable by large vessels, and a great number of steamboats navigate their waters. Far in the interior, there are a great number of lakes, of which the Lake of the Woods, Lake Winni- peg, Lake Athabasca, and the Great Slave and Great Bear Lakes, are the principal. Less than one-tenth part of British America is as yet settled by a civilized population. The inland districts are very thinly peopled by a number of small Indian tribes, who rather roam from place to place, than occupy any stationary tract. They live by hunting and fishing, and present a degraded picture of humanity. The eastern and northern coasts, from Labrador to Behring's straits, are inhabited by va- rious tribes of Esquimaux, who carry on constant warfare with the Indians in their vicinity. The principal divisions of British America are New Britain, with the provinces of Upper Canada, Lower Canada, New firunsVi^ick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward's Island, and New- foundland. The constitution of government for the provinces has been modelled on that of the mother country. Each province has a governor and a legislative council appointed by the crown, and a house of commons or representatives chosen by the inhabitants, upon moderate qualifications. In Lower Canada, the legislative council is appointed for life, and consists of 34 members ; and the house of assembly, elected for four years, is composed of 88 members. In Upper Canada, the chief executive officer is styled lieutenant-governor: the legislative council consists of 17 mem- bers, and the house of assembly of 50. In Lower Canada, trial by jury is universal in criminal cases, but a very small propor- tion of the civil cases are tried in this manner. Law proceedings are in French and English, and it is not unusual to have half the jury English and the other half French. In Upper Canada the laws are wholly English, as is also the case in the other pro- vinces. The constitutions of the other provinces also resemble that of Upper Canada. Canada has a very fertile soil, especially in its upper colony ; and though it be free from snow only during the five months of the year, the heat of that period is sufficient to ripen the most valuable kinds of grain. The vast uncleared tracts are covered with excellent timber. Nova Scotia and New Brunswick are less fertile, yet they contain much good land, and are Well timbered. Newfoundland •-H NORTH AMERICA. 39 has on its shores the most valuable cod-fishery in the world. Even the immense northern wastes are covered with a variety of animals, noted for their rich and beautiful furs, which form the foundation of an extensive and valuable trade. The commerce of British America is of vast importance : the fur trade, the original object for opening an intercourse with this part of the world, was carried on in the first place, chiefly from the shores of Hudson's Bay; but it was there injudiciously placed in the hands of an exclusive company, which greatly diminished its activity. Upwards of forty years ago some enterprising merchants of Montreal established the North-west Company, who, employing numerous and active agents, carried on their business with spirit and enterprise. The eager rivalry of the two companies, gave birth to many deeds of fraud and violence : within these few years, however, an union has healed the deadly enmity between them, and, by acting in concert, they have determined to diminish the issue of ardept spirits, and even to adopt every practical means for the moral and religious improvement of the Indians. The furs exported from Quebec amount annually to about $1,000,000. in value. The timber trade, the value of which, thirty years ago, did not exceed $150,000, has now surpassed all others in magnitude. The Canada merchants lately estimated the capital invested in this business, at $6,000,000. It is also carried on to a great extent from Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and even Cape Breton. The number of vessels employed between England and her American colonies, averages about 1600 inwards, and the same number outwards : tonnage, 430,000 tons. The value of the imports is about $11,000,000, and the exports about half that amount. To the West Indies the colonies export, of their timber and agricultural staples, to a considerable amount, and receive in return the well-known produce of these Islands ; and with the United States Canada holds a great intercourse across Lake Champlain, seeding mostly salt and peltries ; and in return taking chiefly tea, tobacco, and other luxuries, clandestinely, which the strict colonial rules would require her to receive from the mother country. The fishery is pursued upon these shores, to an extent not surpassed anywhere else upon the globe. The rich supply of cod on the Newfoundland banks is wholly unpara.leled : although all the nations of Europe have been lading cargoes of fish foj: centuries, no sensible diminution of them has been felt. The 40 NORTH AMERICA. t. I 'I» : ■ ai ■'; •H English employ about 40,000 tons of shipping, and 3000 men in this fishery: in 1831, they exported in fish, oil, and seal-skins, to the amount of $4,000,000 ; and the Americans and French, in the same year, exported, the latter to upwards of $1,200,000 in value, and the former to the amount of $2,000,000. The interior communications of Canada, are almost solely by the river St. Lawrence and the lakes, which open a very exten- sive navigation into the country. It is seriously obstructed, how- ever, between Montreal and Lake Ontario, where a series of rapids occur, over which only canoes can shoot, and all heavy goods must be landed and shipped. Great exertions have been made to improve, by canals, the interior communications of Canada. The principal work is the Rideau canal, reaching from the Utawas river to Kingston. It is 135 miles long, connecting together a chain of lakes, which admit of steam navigation ; and the dimensions are such as to allow vessels of from 100 to 125 tons to jiuss. The enterprise of private individuals has con- structed the Welland canal ; which unites the lakes Ontario and Erie. It is 42 miles long, and is more capacious than the New York canal : it will allow vessels of 125 tons to pass through. The Chambly canal opens a navigation by the Sorelle river, from Lake Champlain to the St. Lawrence. Area in square miles. Population. New Britain 1,900,000 40,000 Upper Canada 140,000 360,000 Lower Canada 237,000 555,000 New Brunswick 27,000 100,000 Nova Scotia, with Cape Breton. . 18,900 190,000 Prince Edward's Island 2,100 35,000 Newfoundland 35,000 80,000 Total 2,360,000 1,380,000 NEW BRITAIN. New Britain is that large portion of British America situated north of the Canadas and the United States, and stretching northward to the dreary and desolate shores of the Arctic Sea. It comprises Labrador, New North and New South Wales, Prince William's Land, Boothia Felix, lately discovered by Cap- tain Ross, and the North Georgian Islands. Hudson's Bay divides the country into two great divisions : on the east is La- brador and East Main, and on the west New North and New South Wales. ■1 •i NORTH AMERICA. 41 # The face of the country is generally a vast plain, intersected with numerous lakes and rivers, some of which flow into the unexplored seas of the north, and others into Hudson's Bay : among the former are the Mackenzie, the Copper Mine, and Great Fish River, lately explored by Captain Back ; and into the latter the principal are Churchill, Nelson, Severn, and Alba- ny Rivers. The interior streams are the Saskatchewan, Winnipeg, and Red River, flowing into Lake Winnipeg ; and the Athabasca and Peace rivers, emptying into Lake Athabasca : these may properly be considered head branches of the Mackenzie, as their waters finally reach the ocean through its channel. The lakes are exceedingly numerous ; some are extensive, and second only to the great Canadian lakes. Of these, Winnipeg Lake, Athabasca Lake, Great Slave, and Great Bear Lakes, are the principal. They are situated at considerable distances apart, but in a range, lying almost north-west from each other ; and, their waters being nearly connected by various navigable streams, they afford, during the brief period of summer, an extensive and almost contintjous canoe navigation, from Lf^ke Superior to the Arctic Ocean, and are traversed by the fur traders, in their long and perilous voyages. In winter, such is the severity of the climate in this region, that even in 57° the Ifikes freeze eight feet thick ; brandy and mercury congeal ; the rocks sometimes split with a noise like that of the hec^viest artillery, scattering the fragments to a great distance. The temperature is capricious, and the changes sud- den. The Aurora Borealis sheds a light sometimes equal tp that of the full moon. The vegetation in the northern parts is very scanty, but adjoining the northern boundary of the United States there are some fertile spots along the Red River of Lake Winnipeg. The only trade in these regions is that of furs ; to facilitate which, the Hudson's Bay Company have established forts and trading-houses in various quarters, extending from Hudson's Bay west into the territories claimed by the United States. On the shores of the Pacific Ocean, and to the north, almost to the Arctic Sea, from these forts, ^c, agents are sent amongst the Indians to collect furs, in exchange for such European commo- dities as are prized by them. The furs exported in 1832 from Hudson's Bay, amounted to the value of $.500,000. The coasts of Labrador, and indeed ;he whole of the northern parts of this region, from Greenland to Bhering's Strait, is inha- bited by the Esquimaux, a race of savages who sustain exist- ence chiefly by feeding on whales and seals, except in the more southern parts of Labrador : of the skins of the latter they 4 * I ■ j i tnm 42 NORTH AMERICA. I. .\f m .t ill;!'- Ill i f make their boats and clothes, and of his sinews they make thread. They travel over the snow in sledges drawn by dogs, of which they have a very hardy and sagacious breed, which will draw a considerable load 60 miles in a day. The complexion of these polar men has little of the copper colour of the other American aborigines, and is rather of a dirty, reddish yellow. Their summer huts are circular, covered with deer-skins, and entered by creeping on the hands and knees. They make their winter habitations of frozen snow, in a few hours, exceedingly comfortable, and which remain durable till melted by the heat of the ensuing summer. Some of the tribes have canoes, made of the skin of the sea-calf, with which they sail with amazing swiftness. They also work a grey and porous stone into neat pitchers and kettles, and those in the vicinity of Bhering's Strait display great ingenuity in the manufacture of trinkets and utensils of the fossil ivory, with which some parts of those regions abound. They are, far more than the Indians, a social and domestic people. This is apparent in their good treatment to females, and their care and affection for their children. Among these people, on the coast of Labrador, the Moravian missionaries have established several settlements; Nain, Okkak, Hopedale, &c., and have, besides teaching them many useful things, built a magazine, in which each of the natives might deposit his use- less stores, prevailing on them to set apart a tenth for widows and orphans. This is the true way to convert a savage people, by showing them the palpable fruits of the gospel. The Indians occupying this region are principally the Assini- boines, Knisteneaux, or Crees, Chippewayans, Beaver, Hare, Dog-rib, Copper Indians, &c. The Assiniboines are a tribe of Sioux ; they are divided into several smaller tribes, as the Black- foot, Fall, and Blood Indians, &c. They rear many horses, and subsist chiefly on the buffalo. Westward from Baffin's Bay are an extensive range of islands, the discoveries chiefly of Captain Parry. These appear to be entirely detached from the great mass of the American Conti- nent, and are considered by some geographers as forming a separate and distinct region. The chief divisions are Prince William's Land, Boothia Felix, and the North Georgian Islands. Melville Island, the most westerly of the latter, upwards of 100 miles both in length and breadth, and in latitude 15° N., is memorable as containing the spot where Captain Parry spent two years, and braved with success the extremest rigour of an arctic winter. NORTH AMERICA. 43 ■4 No inhabitants were found here, or on any of this range of islands. The only animals which appeared during the winter were a pack of hungry wolves, which hovered round the British vessels in hope of plunder ; and it was not till the middle of May that the hunters met with some ptarmigans, and saw the footsteps of deer. Vegetable productions were few and short- lived. A succession of islands extend eastward from the one just described ; only the southern shores of which were seen by Captain Parry as he sailed along, and their aspect appears closely to resemble Melville Island. They are separated by Barrow's Strait, the continuation of Sir Jairies Lancaster's Sound, from the regions called Boothia Felix. The former, situ- ated to the west of the Gulf of Boothia, was discovered by Cap- tain Ross in his late adventurous voyage, 1829, '30, '31, and '32, and is supposed, from the observations of Captain Back, to be an island, and not a part of the continent, as at first conjectured ; it is much broken by deep inlets and rocky islands, encumbered with ice and of dangerous navigation. The country as far as 72° north is inhabited, and Captain Ross bad communication with a very interesting tribe of natives, who had never before seen any Euiopean. UPPER CANADA. Upper Canada, commencing at Lake St. Francis, above Montreal, extends along the whole chain of the great lakes, almost to the western boundary of Lake Superior. Compara- tively but a small part of this province is settled, and many por- tions of it are yet unexplored. The settlements are chie^y along the rivers St. Lawrence and Utawas, and lakes Erie and Ontario. The soil is in general excellent, and yields abundant crops of grain, wheat, Indian-corn, hops, flax, &c. The climate of Upper Canada is salubrious, and epidemic diseases almost unknown. The winters are shorter and less rigorous than in the lower province : the spring opens, and agri- cultural labours commence from sir: weeks to two months earlier than in the neighbourhood of Quebec. The summer heats are also more moderate, and the autumn pleasant and favourable for securing the produce of all t to late crops. Population is advan- cing with great rapidity : it has hitherto been confined to the St. Lawrence and the shores of the lakes, but is now becoming more diffused over the interior. 44 NORTH AMERICA. •Ir ■ 'f. u; ! i ti:':if:; Mi Toronto and Kingston, on the northern shore of Lake Ontario, are the two principal towns of Upper Canada. Toronto, formerly York, near tne north-west end of the lake, owes its support to its being the seat of government and of the courts, and to the extensive settlements recently formed to the north and east of it. Population, 10,000. Kingston has a commodious harbour, and is a neat little town with about 5000 inhabitants. Some of the other towns on Lake Ontario are Coburg, Port Hope, and Hamilton. On the Niagara River are the villages of Niagara, Queenstown, and Chippewa. Sandwich, in the western part of the province, and opposite to Detroit, is a thriving little town ; as is also London, on the Thames, with a population of 2000 inhabitants. On the east shore of Lake Huron, is the neat and flourishing town of Goderich, with a good harbour at the mouth of the Maitland river ; and at the bottom of Lake Manitouline, or Georgian Bay, is Penetanguishene, a Britioh naval station, from which a steam'uoat runs occasionally to St. Joseph's Island, at the west end of the lake, on which is kept a small detachment of British troops. In this province is exhibited one of the most sublime and mag- nificcnt of nature's works. By the Niagara river, the accumu- lated waters flowing from four great lakes and all their tributaries, are precipitated over the Falls of Niagara, the mightiest cataract in the world. The whole mass is poured into one tremendous plunge of 165 feet in height. The noise, tumult, and rapidity of this falling sea ; the rolling clouds of foam, the vast volumes of vapour which rise into the air, the brilliancy and variety of the tints, and the beautiful jrainbows which span the abyss ; the lofly banks and immense woods which surround this wonderful scene, have been consi- dered by experienced travellers as eclipsing every similar pheno- menon. The noise is heard, and the cloud of vapours seen, at the distance of several miles. The fall on the Canadian side is 630 feet wide, of a semi-circular form ; that on the American side, only 310 feet, and 165 feet in height, being six or seven feat higher than the former. The one, called the Crescent or Horse- shoe Fall, descends in a mighty sea-green wave; the other, broken by rocks into foam, resembles a sheet of molten silver. Travellers descend with the certainty of being drenched to the skin, but without danger, to the foot of the fall, and even beneath it. There are now excellent inns on both sides of the falls, which are crowded witLi visitants during the summer months. NORTH AMERICA. 45 )ntano, jrmerly pport to d to the ast of it. our, and le of the ape, and Niagara, i part of tie town ; , of 2000 [ourishing ith of the ouliwe, or tion, from Island, at chment of } and mag- le accumu- tributaries, fst cataract remendous the rolling ise into the je beautiful immense been consi- [lilar pheno- seen, at the side is 630 [lerican side, r seven feat mt or Horse- the other, tiolten silver, nched to the aven beneath of the falls, sr months. LOWER CANADA. Lower Canada extends along the river St. ^ awrence, on both sides, from its mouth to Lake St. Francis, a short distance above Montreal. At the mouth of the St. Lawrence the country is rugged and mountainous, and the climate vrry severe ; but the upper and more southerly portions of the province are well watered, fertile, and with a milder climate than the lower part. All sections, however, have the winters of Sweden, though in the latitude of France. The summers are warm and short, and the transitit n from winter to summer is very rapid, leaving scarcely more than a month for the season of spring. More than three-fourths of the inhabitants of the country are of French descent, and speak the French language ; they are all Catholics, and much attached to their priests : the remainder are mostly natives of Great Britain and their descendants. Educa- tion is much neglected, and the mass of the people is v -y igno- rant and illiterate. The native French Canadians are called habitans. They are gay, satisfied with a little, and strongly attached to 'heir religion and native country. The countenance of the Canadian is long and thin ; his comp''^ .ion sun-burnt and swarthy, inclining towards that of the Indian ; his eyes black and lively, with lank and meagre cheeks, a sharp and prominent chin, and such easy and polite manners, as though he had always lived in the great world, rather than amid thick forests. Their intercourse with each other is to the last degree affec- tionate, and a French Canadian village constitutes one family. Their cheerfulness, whether in prosperity or adversity, is inex- haustible, and more valuable to tl'em than all the boasted attain- ments of philosophy. There is a marked difference between this province and the United States in the hr.bits of the people, their buildings, and their modes of living. An individual from the latter country, who happens to be in Canada, will be reminded by every thing about him that he is not at home. The city of Quebec, the capital of Canada, is singularly situated, half on a plain along the northern bank of the St. Law- rence, and the other half on the top of a steep perpendicular rock, 350 feet high. These are called the Upper and Lower towns. Quebec, as a military station, is very strong ; its forti- fications render it almost a second Gibraltar. It was one of the most brilliant scenes of British glory. Near it, on the plains of Abraham, Wolfe, at the cost of his ■■'I'll M •iitai 4G NORTH AMERICA. ■Hill' .l!;i' life, gained the splendid victory Avhich annexed Canada to the British empire. The population of Quebec is about 30,000 : its commerce is considerable, as all the vessels, from Britain and other foreign quarters, stop there and unload their cargoes. The town of Three Rivers, containing about 8000 inhabitants, is situated on the river St. Lawrence, 90 miles above Quebec. The commercial capital of Canada is Montreal. Most of the business, even of Quebec, is carried on by branches from the Montreal houses. It derives a great impulse from the transactions of the Hudson's Bay Fur Company ; and it is the centre of the commerce with the United States, carried on by lake Champlain and the Hudson. The island of Montreal is about thirty miles in length, and seven in breadth ; it is of alluvial soil, the most fertile in Lower Canada, and also the most highly cultivated. The view over it of fruitful fields, gay country-houses, and the streams ^y which it is encircled, is one of the most pleasing that can be imagined. The interior of the town is not so attractive. The streets, though tolerably regular, were inconveciently narrow; but of late several have been formed, extending the whole length of the town, that are commodious and airy. The new cathedral, opened in 1820, is considered one of the hand- somest structures in America. It is 255 feet long, 134 broad, 220 feet high in its principal front ; and it is capable of containing 10,000 persons. Two Catholic seminaries, the Englisii church, and the general hospital, are also handsome structures. The population amounts to 40,000. La Chine, above the rapids which interrupt the navigation above Montreal, is an important depdt for the interior trade. 1! SI NEW BRUNSWICK. New Bkvnswiok h situated to the east of the State of Maine, and to the north-west of Nova Scotia, from which it is separated by the Bay of Fundy ; on the noilh it has part of Lower Canada, the boundary between the two being the River Restigouche. It has, on the east, a winding coast along the Gulf of St. Lawrence, indented by navigable bays and inlets. The country, towa.ds the sea-coast, and along the St. John's River, is level, but the western and northern parts, are somewhat mountainous. This colony is still almost one unbroken forest, and under the encouragement afforded by the mother country, almost all the energies of the inhabitants are directed to the lumber trade. The NORTH AMERICA. 4T to the 10: its in and irgoes. ants, 19 c. of the om the mctions s of the amplain gth, and I Lower V over it »y which ntiagined. veniently iding the ry. The he hand- H hroad» •ontaining ii church, •es. The navigation trade. of Maine, separated er Canada, ouche. It Lawrence, y, towa.ds rel, hut the us. d under the lost all the rade. The borders of the rivers, where cultivated, are fertile in grass and grain, though agriculture is not yet greatly advanced. The sea- codst abounds in cod and other fish ; the river St. Johns is thronged with herring, shad and salmon. The fisheries arc a source of considerable wealth and employment to the inhabitants; the produce of which being, with tirr^' ;, the great staples of export. The town of St. John's, on a fine harbour at the mouth of the river St. John's, is the most c( nsiderable place in New Brunswick. The population is about 12,000 : in 1834 the exports from it were $1,000,000; being nearly two-thirds the amount from all the other ports. St. Andrew's, at the head of Passamaquoddy Bay, besides its timber trade, has a considerable fishery, and contains about 6000 inhabitants. Frederickton, the seat of government, is about 85 miles up the St. John's river, which being navigable for vessels of 50 tons, is the seat of a considerable inland trade ; the population is 1800; it is rather regularly built of wood, with government offices, several churches, and a college. The river Miramichi is distinguished by the extensive forests on its bank.«j; whence large shipments of timber are made, at the port of that name, as well as those of Chatham, Douglas, and Newcastle. This tract of country was, in October, 1825, the scene of one of the most dreadful conflagrations on recoid. The flames, kindled by accident at several points at once, were impelled by a violent wind, and fed always with new fuel, till they spread over about 100 miles of territory, involving it in smoke and flame, and reducing to ashes the towns of Douglas and Newcastle ; nearly 200 persons are said to have perished, and more than 2000 to have been reduced to entire destitution. The natural advantages of the country, however, have enabled it to recover with surprising rapidity. New Brunswick was originally settled by German troops ih the service of Great Britain, and henc6 its name. It was in- eluded in Nova Scotia until 1784. Dalhousie and Bathurst, on Chaleur Bay, and Liverpool, on the coast of Miramichi Bay, are small villages. NOVA SCOTIA. Nova Scotia was first settled by the French, and nafned by tiem Acftdia. It was granted by James I. to Sir William Alex- ander, a Scottish nobleman, by whom it was called Nova Scotia ^ iita ■MR* .. M 48 NORTH AMERICA. but was not confirmed to England until 1713. It included New Brunswick until 1784, when it was divided into two provinces. This colony is a large peninsula, bounded on the north by the narrow strait separating it from Capo Breton and Prince Edward's Island, on the south-east by the Atlantic Ocean, and on the north-west by the Bay of Fundy, which penetrates so deep as to leave only an isthmus about nine miles broad, connecting it with New Brunswick. Nova Scotia is about 280 miles long, and from 50 to 100 broad, comprising about 16,000 square miles. The surface of the country is moderately uneven, and in some places hilly. The climate is cold, but healthy, and, with the progress of cultivation, is gradually ameliorating. Spring is late and irregular in its approach ; but when vcj^otation commences, it is very rapid, and in a few days changes the whole face of nature. On the coast the soil is generally poor, but in the interior and northern parts it is well adapted to cultivation. Wh^^at and other grains are raised to some extent, and large quantities of the finest potatoes. The population in 1832 was, including Cape Breton, about 190,000. The principal exports to Europe are timber and fish, and to the West Indies and the neighbour- ing states, timber, provisions, coal of fine quality, gypsum, and freestone. The administration of the colony is vested in a governor, council, and house of assembly. There are colleges at Halifax, Windsor, and P'ctou ; also numerous schools, partly supported by government, for the instruction of the lower classes. The religious denominations are Episcopalians, Presbyterians, Metho- dists, Baptists, and Catholics. Halifax is the capital, situated on one of the noblest harbours in the world, capable of containing any amount of shipping of any burthen. It was founded in 1749, by General Cornwallis, and has since carried on almost all the trade of the colony. The most extensive dock-yard in British America has been formed here, where a number of ships of the line and armed vessels are always lying, either stationed here or for repairs. A considera- ble number of troops are always in garrison, who, with the naval officers, give it the air of a military place. Population, 15,000. Lunenburg, the chief of the German settlements, contains a population of about 2000 inhabitants, and has a brisk trade. Liverpool also carries on a considerable trade ; but Shelburn, which, at the end ^C the Americaa revolutionary war, was the largest place in Nova Scotia, has sunk to a mere village. The north-eastern coast has Pictou, from which, and the neighbour- NORTH AMERICA. 49 d New inces. by the Iwurd's on the ;p as to r it with to 100 :face of ly. The Itivation, nr in its xpid, and erior and hpat and intities of including to Europe leighbour- >sum, and governor, It Halifax, supported ises. The ns, Metho- har hours hipping of ornwalUs, .ony. The ;en formed vessels are conside ra- il the naval on, 15,000. contains a risk trade. Shelburn, ar, was the lage. The neighbour- ing bays on this coast, is shipped the largest quantity of timber and coal. On a river fulling into the Bay of Fundy, is Annapolis, the original French capital ; but since the transference of the government to Halifax, it has sunk into a mere secondary place. The trade of this great bay is now carried on from Yarmouth, at its mouth, the population of which, since 1791, has risen from 1300 to 4500. Gypsum is the principal export. Cape Bukton is a largo island, separated from Nova Scotia by St. George's Gulf and the Gut of Canseau. The island is about 100 miles in length, and from 30 to 80 in breadth. It is pene- trated by an arm of the seu, called the Bras d'Or, which divides it nearly into two equal portions. Only the coasts, including those of the Bras d'Or, have yet been cultivated ; and the popu- lation in general is in a less improved state than in the other colonies. The agricuhure is still in its infancy, the valuable cod-fishery attracting the chief industry of the people. Cape Breton, therefore, imports wheat flour, though it affords a small surplus of oats and potatoes. There are coal-mines of great value. Cape Breton has excellent harbours, and commands, in a great measure, the navigation of the St. Lawrence. Of the population, exceeding 25,000, the most numerous portion con- sists of Scottish highlanders, and next to them of Acadians. The island was, ii< 1820, politically united to Nova Scotia, and sends two members to the house of assembly. Louisburg, which the French carefully fortified, and made one of the principal stations in their " New France," is now entirely deserted ; and Sydney, a village of 800 inhabitants, is all the capital of which Cape Breton can boast. St. Peter's, on the south coast, and Arechat, a small fishing-town on Isle Madame, are the other , rincipal settlements. To the south-east of Nova Scotia lies Sable Island, a danger- ous sand-bank in the track of vessels saihng between Europe- and America. PRINCE EDWARD'S ISLAND. Prince Edward's, formerly St. John's, is a fine fertile island in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, lying nearly parallel to the coasts of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. It is 135 miles long, and 34 broad. It is deeply indented by bays and inlets. The sur- face of the island is level, and varied only by gentle undulations. It has shorter winters than the neighbouring colonies, and is ex- 5 i;^''^ I M NORTH AMERICA. cmpt from those oxtremcH of heat aail cold and heavy fogs, whifih render them ol\en so jrloomy. The soil is good, and well adapted to agriculture, especially wheat and out«, of which it affords a surplus. In 1768, the island contained only 15U families. The population is now 35,000, chiefly Scotch highlanders, and some Acadians, and English from Yorkshire. Charlottetown is the capital, with a population of 3500. iW ?"'• h' NEWFOUNDLAND. This large island is 420 miles long, and 300 brood, situated at the mouth of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and is the most east- ern part of British America. It presents a bold and rocky shore, abounding in harbours. The soil is mostly barren, and the tim- ber scanty and stunted. Some tracts, however, are supposed to be well fitted for pasturage. The climat- is severe, and the country is frequently visited by dreary fogs and storms of sleet and snow. This island owes its importance to its cod-lisheries, which are the most valuable in the world. The tish are taken singly, with baited hooks, upon the banks, which are shallow places, proba- bly formed by the deposits of sand brought down from the tro- pics by the gulf stream, which also bears down on its bosom countless millions of the animal on which the fish feed. The Grand Bank of Newfoundland, situated to the eastward of the island, is the greatest submarine elevation known. It is from 500 to 600 miles in length, and in some places near 200 in breadth. Some distance farther from the Grand Bank, is the Outer Bank, or Flemish Cap, about 90 miles in length by 50 wide ; and to the westward are the Green and Whale Banks. These are the great rendezvous of the cod fish, and form the fishing-ground for some 2500 to 3000 vessels, and from 35,000 to 40,000 Americans, English, and French, chiefly however the first and last. The banks are frequently enveloped in dense fogs, from April to December So early was the value fJ' u. > Newfoundland fisheries disco- vered, that in 1517, only '»«:nty ynrs af^er the first voyage, upwards of fifly vessels of diflfcront nations were found employed in it. The British soon took thi most active part, and formed colonies on the island. Tht 'r sovereignty was acknowledged by the treaty of Utrecht, which -^servec , however, to the French, the right of fishintr on the banks. Th's was confirmed in 1763 I UNITED STATKS. 61 /y fog». jpecially 768, the is now ms, and I, with a , situated most east- ;ky shore, d the tim- ipposed to , and the )s of sleet which are ingly, with ces, proba- 111 the tro« its bosom d. B eastward ^wn. It is near 200 in ank, is the jy 50 wide ; nd form the ■cm 35,000 lowever the id in dense leries disco- rst voyage, id employed and formed owledged by the French, lied in 1763 when the small islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon were allowed to them to dry their fish. The Americans have a right to take fish at any three miles from the shore, and to dry them on any of the neighbouring coasts unoccupied by the British settlers. The fishing season begins in April, and ends in October; the business is lucrative, but dangerous ; and is an admirable nursery for our hardy and adventurous seamen, and furnishes a considerable element of our trade. Many English and French vessels are here in company. The English and French dry their fish on the islands. Wc bring great {wrtions of ours, pickled, to our own ports, and dry them there, particularly at Marblehend, Gloucester, and Uoverly. A great number of acres round those towns, are covered with the flakes or scaffolds on which those fish are dried. Newfoundland contains 80,000 inhabitants, almost entirely fishermen. St. John's^ the principal place on the island, is little more than a large fishing station, the whole shore being lined with wharves and stages for landing and drying fish. It is defended by several forts, one of which. Fort Townsend, is the residence of the governor. The houses are built mostly of wood. This construction exposed the town to a series of dreadful con- flagrations, in 181G, 1817, and 1818. In one of these, (Novem- ber 7, 1818,) property to the amount of half a million sterling was destroyed. The stationary population of St. John's is esti- mated at 11,000, but varies according to the season of the year. The uninhabited island of Anticosti, in the Gulf of St. Law- rence, and the coast of Labrador, are dependencies on Newfound- land. Near its southern coast are the little islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon, belonging to Fran^^^f^ and inhabited by fishermen. UNITED STATES. The Umtbd Statks art* the most interesting and important division of the westorn continent. They are distinguished for the excellence of heir government, the rapid increase of the population, and for the intelligence, industry, and enterprise of the inhabitants. They occupy the most valuable and productive portion of North America, and rank amongst the most powerful, commercial, and wealthy nations of the globe. The United States extend through 29 degrees of latitude, and 58 df^'^Toes of longitude, and comprise a superficial area of upwards of 2,300,000 square miles. The frontier line has a 1^^ 52 NORTH AMERICA, #^' "i .im; t length of 10,000 miles, of which about 3600 are sea-coast, and 1200 lake-coast. A line drawn across from the Atlantic to the Pacific, through the centre, is about 2500 miles in length. So vast a region of course includes a great variety of surface, soil, and climate. It abounds in navigable rivers, and a large proportion of it is susceptible of cultivation, and is of a quality calculated to repay the labour bestowed upon it, more than almost any other region of the same extent in the world : but a small portion of its surface is occupied by mountains, which, from their height or ruggedness, forbid all attempts to render them produc- tive in the means of subsistence to man. There are no great deserts, and few barrens ; nothing like the vast sterile plains which exist in other parts of the world. The basins of the rivers are exceedingly productive : that of the Mis- sissippi, including the Missouri, is the finest valley on the globe. Though lying in the temperate zone, the United States embrace a great variety of climate. In the northern parts the winters are long and severe ; snow often falls to the depth of two or three feet, and the cold is so piercing as to oblige the inhabitants to make very diligent provision against it. Spring returns here in April, and in summer the heat is great. In the southern parts of the country, snow is seldom seen, ice is rarely formed in the rivers, and those fruits which shrink from a northern climate, and flourish only in warm regions, are scattered over the soil. In Georgia, the inhabitants may collect the figs which grow before the windows, and may load their tables with oranges, lemons, and other exquisite fruits that grow in their gardens and groves ; while in parts of Maine, New Hampshire, and Vermont, even peaches will not flourish. Between these extremities, as in Virginia, Kentucky, Missouri, and Illinois, there is a region adapted to the wine-grape, which thrives best removed from both the torrid and frigid zones. The United States are intersected by two principal and two subordinate ranges of mountains, the Rocky and Alleghany, the Ozark and Green Mountains. The Rocky Mountain range forms the great division ridge of North America, separating the waters which flow in opposite directions, towards the great oceans which bound the opposite sides of the continent. They are situated at a medium distance of about 600 miles from the Pacific ; the highest rise above the line of perpetual snow, being estimated at 16,000 feet in height. The Alleghany range runs in a north-easterly direction from the northern part of Alabama to New- York, stretching along in uniform ridges, at the distance of 250 to 80 miles from the sea- I M -'^i: :l UNITED STATES. 6ft i* coa«<, and following its general direction. It occupies in breadth a space of from 60 to 120 miles, and separates the waters which run into the Atlantic Ocean, from those which flow into the Mis- sissippi and its tributaries. The highest elevation in this range, and the most prominent in the Atlantic states is Black Mountain, in the western part of North Carolina : it is 6476 feet in height. The Green Mountains extend from Connecticut, through Mas- sachusetts and Vermont, to Canada, dividing the Atlantic rivers from those of Lake Champlain and the St. Lawrence. Some of the peaks of this range attain considerable elevation. In New Hampshire and Maine are found many considerable peaks, which are not connected with any systematic range, but are scattered in detached groups. The White Mountains, in New Hampshire, are the most elevated in New England. The Ozark Mountains extend from Texas through the western part of Arkansas, into the ?3ad-mine region of Missouri. Their general direction is nearly similar to that of the Alleghany range, and their altitude is supposed to be about 2000 feet above the sea. The territory of the United States is washed by three seas, the Atlantic Ocean on the east, the Gulf of Mexico on the south, and the Pacific Ocean on the west. The principal bays and sounds on the Atlantic border, are Passamaquoddy Bay, Massachusetts Bay, Long Island Sound, Delaware Bay, Chesapeake Bay, and Albemarle and Pamlico Sounds. In the Gulf of Mexico, the principal bays are Chatham Bay, Appalachie Bay, and Mobile Bay. In the Pacific, the Gulf of Georgia is the most important inlet on the western coast of the United States. The great lakes Superior, Huron, Erie, and Ontario, not being altogether in the United States, have been described elsewhere. The boundary between the British and American territoires passes through their centre, allotting about an equal share of their vast waters to each nation. Lake Michigan is wholly within the territory of the United States. It is connected with Huron by the Strait of Michillimackinac, and is about 320 miles in length, and from 55 to 60 miles wide, with an area of 16,200 square miles. The country on both sides of this lake is settling rapidly ; and the mildness of the climate, the excellence of the soil, and the probable speedy junction of its waters with those of the Mississippi, will shortly fill this portion of the west with population and wealth. The other lakes of any magnitude in the United States, are Champlain in New-York, Winnipiseogee in New-Hampshire, and Moose Head in Maine. The rivers which water the territory of the United Stales are numerous, and some of them among the most important in the '■•TI^' '"' i. I- 54 NORTH AMERICA. world. No portion of the globe possesses greater facilities for inland navigation and trade, or is more generally intersected with large and navigable streams. They may be divided into four great classes. 1st. The streams which rise on the east side of the Alleghany mountains, and flow into the Atlantic Ocean. 2d. Those south of the Alleghany range, which discharge themselves into the Gulf of Mexico. 3d. The Mississippi and its wide tributaries, which drain the waters of the vast valley included between the Rocky and Alle- ghany ranges ; and, 4th. The rivers which, rising on the western declivity of the Rocky Mountains, direct their course to the Pacific Ocean. The Penobscot, Kennebec, Connecticut, Hudson, Delaware, Susquehanna, Potomac, James, Savannah, Alatamaha, and St. •John's rivers, are the principal that flow into the Atlantic Ocean. The Suwanee, Apalachicola, Mobile, Pearl, Mississippi, and Sa- bine rivers, are the chief that empty into the Gulf of Mexico. The Mississippi is the largest I'iver of North America, and one of the noblest in the world, watering a more fertile region, and having a larger course of uninterrupted navigation, than any other known stream. Its course — taken in connexion with its mighty auxiliary, the Missouri, is estimated at 4100 miles in length. The space drained by its waters is supposed to ex- ceed 1,300,000 square miles, being upwards of two-thirds of the whole territory of the United States, or about one thirty-eighth part of the land surface of the globe. In no portion of the world has the triumph of art over the obstacles of nature been so complete. The introduction of steam-navigation has been productive of immense advantages, and has been carried to a greater extent than on any other river. The Mississippi proper rises west of Lake Superior, in a dreary and desolate region, amidst lakes and swamps, and, after pursuing a south-east course of about 600 miles, reaches the falls of St. Anthony, where it descends perpendicularly 16 feet, and where are 58 feet of rapids. Thence it flows in a south-easterly, and then southerly direction ; and, after forming the boundary between the states of Missouri, Arkansas, and Louisiana, on the west, and Illinois, Kentucky, Tennessee, and Mississippi, on the east, discharges its waters through several mouths, into the Gulf of Mexico. It is about 2800 miles long, and is navigable for steam-boats to the falls of St. Anthony, 2200 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. The Missouri enters the Mississippi river about 18 miles above St. Louis, after a course of 2900 miles. Although it loses UNITED STATES. 55 its name at its confluence with the latter, it is much the longer stream of the two ; but the Mississippi, having been first disco- vered and explored, has retained its name to the Gulf of Mexico. This error being now past remedy, the Missouri must be consi- dered a? 3 tributary of the Mississippi. It is formed of numer- ous branches, which rise among the Rocky Mountains, between the parallels of 42° and 48° north latitude. The most remote are the Jefferson, Madison, and Gallatin rivers. The only obstruction that occurs to the navigation of the Missouri is at the Great Falls, a distance of 2500 miles from the Mississippi. Here the river descends 362 feet in 18 miles: the descent is by four great pitches or cataracts, of 98, 19, 49, and 26 feet, respectively. The width of the river is about 350 yards, and the cataracts are considered to be, next to those of Niagara, the grandest in the world. About 100 miles above, is the place called the Gates of the Rocky Mountains. This river was lately ascended by a steam-vessel to the mouth of, and 300 miles up the Yellow-Stone, a distance from the Gulf of Mexico of 3300 miles. The largest tributaries of the Missouri are, the Yellow Stone, the Platte, or Simllow river, and the Kanzas. They all rise in the Rocky Mo i ns, and flow through a flat prairie country, inhabited by ;t vvi(i;>ly scattered Indian population. The Arkaii.jus is, after the Missouri, the most considerable tributary of the Mississippi from the west. It rises in the Rocky Mountains, and its course is computed to be about 2000 miles. It enters the Mississippi river about 540 miles below the Missou- ri. Steam-boats can generally ascend this river to the mouth of the Canadian, its largest tributary, and occasionally to Can- tonment Gibson, 640 miles from the Mississippi river. The Red river is the first tributary stream of any note which enters the Mississippi, in ascending from its mouth. It has a course of about 1500 miles, and flows through immense prairies of a red soil. The Wisconsin river joins the Mississippi from the east 4 or 5 miles below the town of Prairie du Chien. In part of its course it approaches so near the Fox river of Green Bay, as to leave a portage of only li miles. It is one of the great natural chan- nels of communication between the lakes and the Mississippi. The Illinois river enters the Mississippi 18 miles above the Missouri, after a course of more than 500 miles. It is near a quarter of a mile wide at its mouth, and has a remarkably smooth, gentle current. The Ohio river is the largest eastern tributary of the Missis- sippi. At its junction, and for 100 miles above, it is as large -w'— •AMI 66 NORTH AMERICA. ■Ni. ■•:-^ii ns the parent stream. The Ohio is formed by the union of the Alleghany and Monongahela rivers at Pittsburg. It flows in a south-westerly direction for 945 miles, separating the states of Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, from Virginia and Kentucky, and falls into the Mississippi 193 miles below the Missouri. Its cur- rent is gentle, and is nowhere broken by any considerable falls, except at Louisvill , in Kentucky, where the water descends 22^ feet in two miles. ^ his obstruction is now obviated by the Louis- ville and Portland canal, which affords a passage to steam boats of small drafl, at all seasons, to the upper parts of the river at Pittsburg. The most considerable river on the Pacific side of the Rocky Mountains is the Columbia, or Oregon. Its head-waters inter- lock with the Arkansas, Rio del Norte, &c. : it is about 1500 miles in length ; its principal branches are Lewis's or Saptin river, 1200 miles in extent ; Clark's or Flat Head river, 600 miles long, M'Gillivray's, Okinagan, &c. Vessels of 300 tons may ascend thy Columbia 125 miles ; and large sloops may go up to the head of tide, 183 miles from the ocean. Minerals abound in the United States in great variety and pro- fusion. Iron is very generally diffused, and is very abundant. Lead, limestone, and coal, both of the anthracite and bituminous kind, abound in quantities supposed to be inexhaustible, especially of the former description. Gold has recently been found to a considerable amount in Virginia, North and South Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, and Tennessee. The most valuable mines are in North Carolina and Georgia. The lead-mines of Missouri, Illinois, and Wisconsin, are said to be the richest in quality in the world ; and the quantity of that metal extracted from the ore, within the last few years, has been sc great as to exclude almost entirely the foreign article from our markets. The annual produce of the Missouri mines is estimated at 7 million, and of the Illinois and Wisconsin 10 million pounds. Salt springs abound in many parts of the Union, and large quantities of Salt are made in New York, V/estern Pennsylvania, Western Virginia, Ohio, and Illinois : it is also made from sea- water in some parts of New England. The whole amount made is stated to be about 7 million bushels. The United States form a federal republic. Each of the states is independent, and has the exclusive control of all concerns merely local ; but the defence of the country, the regulation of commerce, and all the general concerns of the confederacy, are com milled, by the constitution, to the general government. The legislative power is vested in a Congress, consisting of a !:^c»late and House of Representatives. The Senate is composed ril :l! UNITED STATES. 67 i ■A of two members from each State, chosen every two years, for a period of six years, so that one-third of the Senate is renewed biennially. The number of senators is at present 52. The members of the House of Representatives are chosen every two years, each state being entitled to a number proportionate to its population, in a ratio, in the states that do not admit of slavery, of one to every 47,700 inhabitants ; and in ine states where there are slaves, of one for every 47,700 of the free white population, and one for every 79,500 of the slaves. The number of repre- sentatives is now 240. The judiciary is composed of a Supreme Court, of one chief and fe! associate judges ; of 34 District Courts, of one judge each, except that 7 ot the slates are divided into two districts each ; and of 9 Circuit Courts, composed of the judge of the district, and one of the judges of the Supreme Court. The executive power is vested in a President, who, together with the Vice-President, is chosen for four years, by electors from all the states. The President must be a native-born citizen, or have been a citizen at the adoption of the constitution, of 35 years of age, and have resided in the United States 14 years. The principal subordinate officers of the executive department, are the Secretaries of State, of the Treasury, of War, and of the Navy, the Postmaster General, and the Attorney General. They are removable at the will of the President, and, with the Vice- President, form the cabinet. The seat of government is at the City of Washington. The government of the United States is conducted according to the provisions of a written document, called the Constitution, which was formed and adopted in 1789, and has since been amended. It secures to the people the grand principles of free- dom, liberty of conscience in matters of religion, liberty of the press, trial by jury, and the right of choosing and being chosen to office. The revenue of the United States is chiefly derived from duties on imports, the sales of public lands, post-offices, lead-mines, &:c. The revenue on imports is the most important. The second great source of revenue is the national domain, or public lands, which consists of tracts of territory ceded to the general government by several states ; of the lands in the terri- tory of Louisiana, purchased from France ; and those in Florida, acquired by treaty from Spain. A vast portion of this land is occupied by the Indians, who are considered as proprietors of the soil, till the government extinguish their title by purchase. A General Land Office at Washington, directs the sale of these territories. All the lands are surveyed before sale; they are divided into townships of six miles square, which are subdivided ^,^■11^ I ■ 58 NORTH AMERICA. 1.-: I, illl ! ■• -;uliS 1 into sections of one mile square, containing each 640 acres, and sold in sections, half, quarter, and half-quarter sections. The minimum price is fixed hy law at a dollar and a quarter. All sales are made for cash. Salt-springs and lead-mines are reserved, but may be sold by special orders from the President. One section of 640 acres is reserved in each township, as a fund for the perpetual support of schools. Five per cent, on all sales of land are reserved, three- fillhs of which are er ided by Congress in making roads lead- ing to the states in .i'„h the lands are situated, and two-fifths are expended by the states for the promotion of learning. In the year 1820, the sales of the public lands produced 1,167,225 dollars, which had increased in 1836 to the astonishing sum of 24,000,000 dollars, but the sales were materially less in the two succeeding years. Since the commencement of the government, there have been sold 75 million acres, for which upwards of 106 million doKars has ]>ec'n paid. There yet remain unsold more than 318 million acics of land. The Army of the United States consists of two regiments of dragoons, 4 of artillery, and 7 of infantry, containing, at the end of 1837, an aggregate amount of 7058 men, Including a corps of Engineers, Topographical Engineers, and Ordnance deparfment; the whole being under the command of a Major General and two Brigadier Generals. The Navy of the United States, though on a small scale, acquired great reputation during the three years' war, when the American ships successfully encountered the formidable force of England. Much has since been done, both in enlarging the number of vessels, and extending and constructing suitable dock-yards ; but the naval force is not considered adequate to the exigencies of the country. It consists of 57 vessels, of which there are, 11 ships of the line, 17 frigates, 1 steam frigate, 15 sloops of war, and 13 smaller vessels. There are seven navy-yards belonging to the United States, viz. : at Portsmouth ; at Charlestown, in Boston Harbour ; at Brooklyn, on Wallabout Bay, opposite New-York ; at Philadel- phia ; at Washington ; at Gosport, opposite Norfolk, Virginia ; and at Pensacola, Florida. There are graving or dry docks at Charlestown and Gosport, and a third is constructing at Brooklyn. The post routes cover an extent of 141,242 miles, on which the mails are carried 32,597,000 miles a year. The number of post-offices is 11,100. The office of the Mint of the United States was established at Philadelphia in 1792, and in 1835 an act was passed for estab- lishing a branch in New Orleans, for the coinage of gold and ii!' UNITED STATES. 59 sold by acres is pport of i, three- ids lead- wo-fifths ling. In ,167,225 sum of n the two rernment, dsofioe sold more iments of at the end a corps of apartment; ral and two e, acquired ! American f England, number of yards ; but rencies of sre are, H jps of war, ited States, arbour; at at Philadel- , Virginia ; ry docks at It Brooklyn. s, on which he number stablished at for estab- of gold and silver, and branches at Charlotte, North Carolina, and Dahlone- ga, Georgia, for the coinage of gold ; the general direction being under the control of the Director of the Mint at Philadelphia. The coinage is executed by machines propelled by steam-power ; the value of the coinage during the year 1838 was 4,206,540 dollars, comprising 1,809,595 dollars in gold coins, 2,333,243 in silver, and 63,702 in copper. The chief agricultural occupations in the eastern states are grazing and the dairy. The middle states are principally devoted to the cultivation of wheat and Indian-corn ; the southern to that of tobacco, cotton, sugar, and rice ; and the western to Indian- corn and wheat. Slave labour is chiefly employed in the south- ern and in some of the middle and western states. The cotton crop u. 1836 was estimated at 480 million pounus, of the value of 80 million dollars. Tobacco, 80,000 hogsheads, of the value of six million dollars ; of rice to the amount of 2^ million dol- lars ; and of sugar and molasses, of the former 100,000 hogs- heads, and of the latter 63,000 hogsheads. The amount of wheat, rye, Indian-corn, &c. raised in the country, it is impos- sible to estimate with any degree of certainty, but it no doubt amounts to many million barrels. The manufactures of the United States are considerable, and gradually increasing. The eastern and middle states, which are most abundantly supplied with water-power, are most exten- sively engaged in manufactures, especially of cotton, woollen, iron, glass, paper, wood, «&c. Tte present annual value is computed at $350^000^000 ; and the capital invested in all the manufactories of the Union is estimated at more than 1000 mil- lions. Most of the American manufactures are designed for home consumption ; yet, in 1834, domestic manufactures were exported to the amount of l|8,567,590. 1 he manufactures of cotton goods amount to about 50 mil- lions of dollars ; woollen 70 millions ; leather and its manufac- tures 45 millions ,* hats, caps, bonnets, &c., 15 millions ; cabi- net-ware 10 millions ; cables and cordage, paper and glass-ware, each six millions; soap and candles nearly 12, and of manufac- tured tobEicco and refined sugar, each about 2 millions of dol- lars. The commerce of the United States is, next to that of Great Britain, the largest in the world. It consists principally in the exchange of agricultural produce for the manufactures of other countries, and the productions of tropical climates. At the commencement of the year 1838, there was of registered tonnage 810,447, including 127,241 tons employed in the whale- fishery ; the enrolled and licensed tonnage amounted to 956,980 ,if" ■-'^r' ttt J- I. ''(1 'Iff'! ■';ii:' i') ■'«' ^^ii: ■i"i; •i!!; r.o NORTH AMERICA. and fishing-vessels 129,257; total 1,896,685; and, during the year 1838, there was built in the United States, registered ton- nage 42,343, and of enrolled tonnage 80,643 ; total 122,987. Cotton is the principal article of export, itb annual value ex- cecding 60 million dollars ; tobacco, bread-stuffs, the produce of the fisheries, timber, bark, cotton goods, and flaxseed, rank next in importance. Most of the fisheries are carried on from the New England states, and in New England ships. The whale-fishery is prose- cuted in the Atlantic Ocean, chiefly south of the line, for the right or black whale, and in the Southern, Indian, and Pacific oceans, for the spermaceti whale. In the year 1836, 144,680 tons of shipping were employed in this business ; and in the course of the year 1836, spermaceti and whale oil was brought home, of the value of about 5,700,000 dollars. Seal oil and furs are also obtained in the Antarctic seas uy these adventurous seamen. The fishery is carried on chiefly from the ports of Nantucket and New Bedford, and also, but on a less scale, from New Lon- don, Sag Harbour, Warren, Bristol, Hudson, &c. About 10,000 men are engaged in it, and the seamen are paid, not by fixed wages, but by a certain share in the profits of the voyage. Those in the Pacific and Southern oceans are generally absent from two to three years at a time. The cod-fishery is pursued on the banks and coasts of New- foundland, and on the Labrador coasts. It employs upwards of 60,000 tons of small crafl, some of which make several trips a year ; those on the coast-fisheries generally remain longer. The produce of this fishery may be estimated at from 1,200,000 to 1 ,500,000 dollars a year. The mackerel fishery employs about 50,000 tons of shipping, and produces about 2,000,000 dollars annually. No part of the world presents such an extensive river com- merce. Steam-vessels, a grand improvement, first introduced in America, ply on all the principal rivers, bays, lakes, &c. The Mississippi river and its tributaries alone are traversed by 300 steam-boats, all of which make several voyages every year. The great land-locked bays of the coast have been connected by a chain of canals, affording a safe internal water- route from Narragansett Bay to Albemarle Sound. The eastern and west- ern waters have been united by several channels, which either turn the Alleghanies or surmount their summits. The waters of the lakes and the Mississippi have been connected at various points, and the obstacles in the navigation of the most important rivers have been overcome by removing the bars or ledges which :l UNITED STATES. 61 irinji? the ered ton- 2,987. /alue ex- roduce of rank next r England r is prose- te, for the nd Pacific J, 144,680 ind in the jls brought sal oil and dventurous Nantucket I New Lon- 30ut 10,000 lot by fixed the voyage, rally absent sts of New- upwards of /eral trips a longer. The ,200,000 to nploys about ),000 dollars e river com- }t introduced I, lakes, &c. traversed by s every year, connected by jr-route from em and west- which either The waters ;ted at various lost important ledges which obstructed their channels, or by side-cuts, locks, and dams. The whole length of this artificial navigation is not less than 3500 miles ; all of which, with one or two trifling exceptions, has been executed in the short space of 20 years. The Americans have equally surpassed all other people in the number and extent of their rnil-roads, having, in less than ten years, constructed nearly 2500 miles of these artificial levels, over which carriages arc propelled by locomotive steam-engines at the rate of from 15 to 20 miles an hour. Although this con- trivance is less adapted than canals to the conveyance of bulky articles, yet it possesses some advantages over that mode of transportation, such as that of not being interrupted by ice, and of being suited to certain localities in which artificial water com- munication would be impracticable. The employment of steam-power is probably greater in this country than in any other part of the world, and forms one of the principal elements of American prosperity. 1300 steam-boats have been built since the year 1807, of which 800 now exist; and the number of steam engines in the United States, employed in steam-boats, locomotive rail-road cars, and for various manu- facturing purposes, is not less than 3000. To the state governments is committed that branch of legisla- tion which relates to the regulation of local concerns. These bodies make and alter the laws which regard property and private rights, appoint judges and civil officers, impose taxes for state purposes, and exercise all other rights and powers not vested in the federal government by positive enactment. They are, in their composition, very similar to the federal government. The legislature consists always of two branches, both of which are returned by the same electors; and these electors may be said to comprise the whole adult white population, the usual qualifi- cations being citizenship, with one or two years' residence, and payment c? taxes. In North Carolina, representatives are chosen by the whole resident free citizens who pay taxes, but senators only by free- holders ; in New Jersey and Virginia, the right of suffrage for both houses is limited to persons holding a small amount of landed property ; in Maryland the senators are chosen by dele- gates named for the purpose by the people. In all the states, the period for which the representatives serve is either one or two years. The elections are biennial in Dela- ware, South Carolina, Tennessee, Louisiana, Illinois, Missouri, and Arkansas, and annual in the other states. The shortest period for which the senators serve, in any state, is one year, and the longest five. In Maine, New Hampshire, 6 Ir^ ji'v :!!:■, '^ m NOftTH AMKKK A. Massariiusetts, Uliodo Isliuid, (.'oniujclicut, Now Jersey, North Carolinn, and Georgia, the senator.s hold their ofliec for one year only ; in Ohio, Teniu'ssce, and Michigan, for two years; in Mis- sissippi, Aldbuma, and Indiana, lor three years ; in New V'ork, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, South Carolina, Kentucky, Louisiana, Illinois, Missouri, and 7\rkansas, for four years; and in Maryland, for live years. Except in Marylan-i, when the senate of any state serves for more than one year, it is renewed by parts or divisions, one-third of the members going out annu- ally when they servo for three years, and one-fourth when they serve for four. In some cases, however, when the senators serve for four years, the renewal is by halves every two years. The United States are more distinguished for the general divi- sion of knowledge, than for eminence in literature or science. The means of common education are widely extended, and there are numerous seminaries of learning throughout the country, though there are no literary establishments on so large a scale as many in Europe. As a general government, the United States have done but little for the interests of public instruction, except that they reserve for the purpose one section in every township of their new lands, besides other reservations for colleges. This highly important subject has, perhaps, been better attended to, by being left to the individual states and to private citizens. The numl)er of universities and colleges in the United States is 93; of medical schools, 28; of law schools, eight; of theological seminaries, 37. The country does not yet, however, furnish the scholar with those facilities for a finished learned education which are affbi'ded by the scientific and literary establishments of Europe; and the want of good libraries is sensibly felt by every one who has attempted much learned research. Most of the states of the Union have made some legislative provision for common school instruction, and in some states large funds are set apart for this purpose. Private schools and academies of the higher order, are quite numerous, especially in New England ; so thtit few grow up without enjoying the means of elementary instruction, or, if they desire it, of a more extended liberal education. There is no established church in the United States, religion bemg left to the voluntary choice of the people. No sect is favoured by the laws beyond another ; it being an essential prin- ciple in the national and state governments, that legislation may of right interfere in the concerns of public worship only so far as to protect every individual . in the unmolested exercise of his choice. 11' ■:i-( I'll : ii' 4 i'',:i .:!'i'l UNITED STATES. 08 Nor is any Icgislntivo provision made for the support of reli- gion, except that, in Massachusetts, the legislature is enjoined to recpiire, and in Now Hanripshirc is empowered to authorise, the several towns and parishes to make adequate provision, at their own expense, for the support of Protestant ministers. The same was the case in Connecticut until 1818, when it was abolished by the new constitution. Put in all the other states, the support of religion is left entirely to he voluntary zeal of its professors. The numbers of established churches or congregations are estimated at over 17,000, and the ministers at about 15,000. The Baptists arc the most numerous denomination. The Pres- byterians, including Congrcgationalists, arc estimated as second in numerical amount ; and the Methodists, Episcopalians, Roman Catholics, Universalists, Lutherans, Christians, German Re- formed, and Friends or Quakers, probably rank in point of numbers in the order in which they are mentioned ; besides, there are many other sects respectable in point of numbers. There are no early enumerations of the population on which much reliance can be placed ; but, in 1740, the number was esti- mated at 1,000,000. A regular decennial census, taken since 1790, gave, at that period, a,929,827 ; in 1800, 5,305,925; in 1810,7,239,814; in 1820, 9,638,131 ; and in 1830, 12,866,020 : the whole number, at the present time, is probably not less than 16,500,000. It is most interesting to consider, as the immensity of unoccupied land leaves full scope for this power of multiplica- tion, how vast the future numbers may be with which this region will be peopled, and which will render it much the greatest state that ever existed in ancient or modern limrs. It is calculated, upon good grounds, that in a century it will contain 160,G "^0,000 ; and still, being only half as populous as Britain or France, leave amj)le scope for "future increase. The Americans, should they continue united, would then become the greatest nation in the world ; and the most powerful states of Europe would rank as secondary to them. The population, exclusive of the aboriginal races within the United States' limits, whose numbers are not comprised in the above statements, consists of three classes ; whites, free coloured [)ersons, and slaves, whose relative proportions at five different periods are here given : 1790. 1800. 1810. 1820. 1830 10,537,378 Wliitcs. SlavpH. Free coloured. 3,172,464 097,897 59,465 4,304,489 893,041 108,395 5,862,004 1,191,364 186,446 7,861,710 1,538,038 232,524 2,009,043 319,599 r r •i NURTH AMERICA. The whole number of aboriginnN existing at present within the territorial jurisdiction of the United States, is estimated at :i32,498, of whom about 80,000 reside west of the Rocky Mountains, and the residue cnst of that region. Of the Indians residing east of the Rocky Mountains, 49,365 are east of the Mississippi river, of whom 36,950 are under treaty stipulations to remove westward of that stream, 51,327 have removed from the cast to the west side of the Mississippi, and arc settled in the Western or Indian territory, assigned to them by the govern- ment of the United States ; and the remainder are indigenous Indians, nowise under the control of our government : of these, the principal are the Sioux, Pawnees, Comanches, Minatarees, Black feet, and Assiniboines. The most humane exertions have constantly been in operation on the part of the general government, to preserve the race from extinction, by severe provisions to prevent their obtaining ardent spirits, niul Ijy unwearied efforts to train them to the arts und agriculture, und to impart to them the blessings of education and Christianity. Under the system adopted by the government, agents and sub- agents, interpreters and mechanics, are employed among the dif- ferent Indian tribes, to carry these purposes into cllect ; and the President is authorized to cause the stores of the licensed traders to be searched, and if ardent spirits are found among the articles for sale, the whole goods are ibrfeifed to the government. The territory of the confederacy is at present divided into twenty-six states, two territories, and one B'ederal district, which contains the seat of government. This does not include the ex- tensive tract assigned to the Indians, called the Indian Terri- tory, the region west of the Missouri and north of the Platte, and that west of the Rocky Mountains, in which there is no white population, and which has received no political organiza- tion or official name. The states are divided for municipal purposes into small sec- tions, styled counties, except in South Carolina, where they are called districts, and in Louisiana, where they are called parishes. In the states of New England, in New York, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Ohio, Indiana, and Michigan, the counties are sub- divided into townships, often called towns, and in Delaware into hundreds. I t within natcd at I Rocky s Indians St of tho pulations ved from led in the 3 govern- idigonous of these, inatarees, ts and sub- mg the dif- t; and the ised traders the articles ent. livided into irict, which ude tJic ex- lian Tcrri- the Platte, there is no i\ organiza- small sec- ure they are cd parishes, cnnsylvania, ties are sub- elaware into EASTliUN STATKS. 65 THE EASTERN, OR NI':W ENGLAND STATES. Nkw England comprises the six states situated cast of the Hudson, viz., Maine, New Humpshirc, Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, and Connecticut. Tho inhabitants are almost ex- cliisively of uimiixed English origin, and though never united as u political whole, they have ut difTereut periods been connected for their common interests. From the earliest settlement of their country, they have on- joyed peculiar advantages for literary and religious instruction, und, trained to habits of industry, economy, and enterprise, by the circumstances of their peculiar situation, as well as by tho dangers of prolonged wars, they present traits of character which are considered as remarkable abroad as they are common at home. Tho surface of the country is infinitely varied. In the interior it is mountainous, with fertile valleys between. The land along the sea-shore presents in general an irregular surface, consist; ig of hills and ridges, with ilats of moderate extent. The inland portions towards the mountains present an almost constant suc- cession of short hills and narrow valleys. There are no exten- sive plains throughout the whole of New England. Much of tho soil is good, yet in general it requires diligent cultivation, and compels tho farmer to use great industry to procure tolerable crops ; and although it well repays the labour of tho husband- man, it is on the whole less fruitful than many other parts of the United States. Most of the New England states are largely engaged in manu- factures. The cotton factories, in particular, employ a vast number of hands and a great amount of capital. A proof of the result of these great establishments may be found in the fact, that 30 years ago the chief cottons of the United States were imported from India. Now England now sends her manufac- tured cottons there, and finds the trade profitable, r^inco the manufacturing system has prevailed, this part of the Udi- a has rapidly increased in population and business. The New Englandei's are e?^tensively engaged in the bank and whale fisheries. They carry on, also, an active commerce with nil parts of the world; their ships spread their sr,il« in every sea, and their lumber manufactures and the produce of their fisheries are extensively exported. Almost every village carries on some handicrad, and the farmer often employs tho long winter even- ings in some gainful task. Thus arc produced many little ob- jects which although in appearance of small value, yet in the (J* m NORTH AMERICA aggregate constitute a source of considerable wealth to the com- munity, and are produced to such an extent as almost to rival in value the products of the large manufacturing establishments. From the first settlement of the country, the inhabitants of New England have been a religious people. The entire free- dom of opinion enjoyed by them has led to a diversity of reli- gious denominations. In almost every town and village are several places of public worship belonging to the different sects common in the country, among which are Congregationalists, Baptists, Episcopalians, Methodists, Unitarians, &c. Education is more universal here than in any part of the world. It is exceedingly hard to find persons of mature age who have not been instructed in the common branches of school learning. Institutions of learning and education were establish- ed at an early period by the first settlers of New England, some of which at the present day are the most respectable and effi- cient in the Union. The population of New England has been gradually increas- ing. In 1700 it was about 120,000, and in 1755 was estimated at 345,000, not including the troops at that time in the provinces. The amount in 1820 was 1,659,854; in 1830, 1,955,207, and is now probably above 2,300,000 souls. Area 66,280 square miles. STATE OF MAINE. Maine is the most northern and eastern of the United States. Previous to the year 1820, it formed a part of the commonwealth of Massachusetts, at which period it was received into the Union as an independent state. Maine is in length from north to south about 216 miles, and from east to west 162 ; the area is differently estimated at from 32,000 to 35,000 square miles. On the sea-coast, the country is generally level ; at some dis- tance in the interior, hilly ; and in the central parts of the state are many mountains of considerable elevation. The principal rivers are the St. John's,with its branches, the Allagash, Walloostook, and Aroostook ; and the Penobscot, Kennebeck, Androscoggin, Saco, Pleasant, Damariscotta, and Union rivers. The sea-coast of Maine is remarkably indented with bays and inlets, which afford great facilities for navigation and commerce. The principal are Casco, Penobscot, Frenchman's, Englishman's Machias, and Passamaquoddy bays. r > i MAINE. m e com- •ival in 3nts. mts of e free- of reli- ige are nt sects )nalists, ; of the ure age f school 3tablish- id, some and effi- increas- !sti mated rovinces. 207, and 10 square sd States, lonwealth into the om north the area ire miles, some dis- the state nches, the i'enobscot, cotta, and bays and commerce. Ushman's The lakes are so numerous, that it is estimated one-sixth of the surface of the state consists of water, and indeed they form one of the characteristic features of the country. The most noted are Moosehead, Umbagog, Sebago, the Schoodic lakes, and Lake Chesuncook. The soil on the coast is various, and of but moderate fertility : in the interior, most of the land is more productive ; and some of it, especially on the Kennebeck and Penobscot rivers, is fer- tile, and well adapted to agriculture and grazing. One of the most important productions of this state is white-pine timber, which is found chiefly on the Upper Kennebeck and Penobscot rivers, and also on the Allagash. The value of the lumber cut and sawed annually is estimated at $10,000,000; the yearly amount of the wool grown, $2,000,000 ; and of lime manufactured in the state, $1,000,000. The total shipping belonging to the state amounts to 276,839 tons, and about .50,000 tons are annually built. The value of imports in the year 1837 was $801,404 ; of exports, $955,952, of which all but $8,676 was of domestic produce. The constitution makes it the duty of the legislature to require the several towns to make suitable provision, at their own ex- pense, for the support of public schools, and to encourage and suitably endow academies, colleges, and seminaries of learning. In pursuance of this provision, each town is required by law to raise annually a sum equal to forty cents for each inhabitant, which is distributed among the town schools in the ratio of the number of scholars in each. Further grants are also made by the state in aid of their support. There are in the state 30 academies, a Baptist college at Waterville, a Congregationalist theological seminary in Bangor, a Wcsleyan theological seminary at Readfield, and Bowdoin Col- lege, with a medical school, at Brunswick. The principal reli- gious denominations are Baptists, Congregationalists, and Metho- dists ; there are also Universalists, Roman Catholics, Episcopa- lians, &c. All of the towns are in the southern part of the state, in which, indeed, nearly the whole of the population is concentrated. There are some settlemeftts'bn TheSt. John's, in the northern part, which is, howevcs^ at^pfesent under British jurisdiction, and through which there is a road leading from Frcderickton, in New Brunswick, to the river St. Lawrence. The central part is almost wholly uninhabited, and covered with primitive forests, which are visited only by hunters and lumberers. ^1 w i ■i < 69 NORTH AMERICA. POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. ■\p . Cn 1765 20,788 1790 96,540 1800 151,719 1810 228,705 1820 298,335 1830 399,455 INCREASE. From 1765 to 1790 ........ 75,752 1790 to 1800 55,179 1800 to 1810 76,986 1810 to 1820 69,630 1820 to 1830 101,120 Of the above population of 1830 were, white males, 200,687 ; white females, 197,591. Of which, 153 are deaf and dumb; 154 are blind ; and foreigners, not naturalized, 3526. Of free coloured persons, there are, males, 600 ; females, 571 ; coloured deaf and dumb, 10 ; blind, 1. The city of Portland is the largest and most important place in the state. It is beautifully situated on Casco Bay, is well laid out, and handsomely built, and has a safe and capacious harbour, which is defended by two forts. Upwards of 57,000 tons of shipping belong to the port. Here are six banks, sixteen churches, a court-house, theatre, an athenaeum, with a public library ; and the population, which in 1830 was 12,601, is now believed to exceed 16,000. The city of Bangor, the most important place on the Penobscot, has trebled its population since 1830 : it is at present about 10,000. From 300,000,000 to 400,000,000 feet of lumber, arc supposed to be annually exported from this place. Augusta, the capital of the state, occupies both sides of the Kennebec river, 50 miles from its mouth: it contains a handsome state-house of granite, and an United States Arsenal. Below Augusta are Hallovvell and Gardiner, both flourishing towns; and at the head of ship navigation, and about 15 miles from the sea, is Bath, noted for its ship-building. From Thomastown are ex- ported large quantities of lime, marble, and granite. Some of the other principal towns in Maine, are Eastport, Machias, Calais, Orono, Belfast, Brunswick, Saco, and York. STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. This state is bounded on the north by Lower Canada ; on the east by Maine and the Atlantic Ocean ; south by Massachusetts ; and west by Vermont. It is in length, from north to south, about 160 miles; and from east to west, 70 is about the average breadth. It is in area 9,491 square miles. The sea-coast of this state, is but 18 miles in extent. I NEW HAMPSHIRE. 68 752 179 y86 ,630 ,120 0,687 ; dumb; Of free oloured It place kvell laid larbour, tons of ■%j The country on the coast is level : in the interior, the surface IS greatly diversified by hills and valleys, and contains several mountains of considerable height, among which are the White Mountains, the most elevated of any in the New England states. The other considerable elevations are, Moose hillock, Monadnock, Kearsarge, Sunapee, Ossipee, &c. The different elevations of the White Mountains are distin- guished by the names of Washington, Franklin, Adams, Jeffer- son, Madison, Monroe, and Pleasant. Mount Washington is 6428 feet in height. They are covered with snow ten months in the year, and are often seen from a great distance at sea. The wild and sublime character of their scenery, causes them to be annually visited by numerous travellers. The view is rendered unusually grand and interesting, by the magnitude of the elevation, and the extent and variety of the surrounding scenery. In the western pass of these mountains, there is a remarkable gap called the Notch, which is esteemed one of the grandest natural curiosities in the United States. To an admirer of the wonders of nature, the passage through the Notch, and the views from the summit, afford a rich repast. The principal rivers of New England have their origin, either wholly or in part, in this state. These are, the Connecticut, Merrimack, Androscoggin, Saco, and Piscataqua. The other most considerable streams are, the Upper and Lower Amonoosuck, Sugar river, Ashuelot, Contoocook, Magallaway, and Nashua. The principal lakes are the Winnipiseogee, Umbagog, Ossipee, Sunapee, Squam, and Newfound lake. The inhabitants of New Hampshire arc principally engaged in agriculture: the chief products are Indian corn, wheat, rye, oats, barley, flax, &c. ; and horses and cattle, beef, pork, butter, cheese, &c. are largely exported. There are some large manufacturing establishments, chiefly in the southern part of the state. In 1 833, there were in New Hampshire, 60 cotton, 32 woollen, 609 grist, 952 saw, 20 oil, 15 paper, 234 fulling, and 236 carding-mills. Manufactures are also carried on in families to a considerable extent, and some vessels are employed in the bank and shore fisheries ; but many inhabitants leave the state every year in search of employment. The mineral resources of New Hampshire are not great. Cop- per is found at Franconia, and iron is abundant at Lisbon and Franconia ; black-lead also occurs at several places, particularly at Bristol. A fine-grained granite, which is quarried in many places, affords an excellent building material. About eight miles from the coast are the Isles of Shoals, be- longing partly to New Hampshire and partly to Maine. They m M P 70 NORTH AMERICA. lie between Portsmouth and Newburyport, and are hardly more than a cluster of rocks risings above the water. The inhabit- ants, about 100 in number, live by fishing; and in connexion with those of the shore in their immediate neighbourhood, who follow the same mode of life, are the most rude and uncivilized bein;;3 in New England, except the Indians. Efforts have re- cently been made to improve their condition, and they have now a meeting-house, school, &c. Common schools are estabiishcf' by law throughout the state, and ai*e supported in part by towi t^.ves, in part by school lands or funds arising from the sale of ^'lem, and belonging to the towns, and in part also by the ;;roceeds of certain state taxes ; the number of free school-houses in the state somewhat exceeds 1600 ; and there are 41 academies, attended by 1600 pupils. Dartmouth college, in Hanover, is a well-endowed institution, and affords instruction in the common branches taught in the New England colleges. The principal religious denominations are Congregationalists, Baptists, and Methodists, with some Friends, Presbyterians, Episcopalians, and Roman Catholics. POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. In 1730.. . 12,000 In ISOO 1749. . 30,000 1810 1767. . 52,700 1820 1775. . 80,038 1830 IltlCREASE. From 1790 to 1800 . . , 1800 to 1810 . . , 1810 to 1820.., 1820 to 1830.. 41,973 30,602 39,701 25,167 183,858 214,460 244,161 269,328 Of the above population of 1830, there were, white males, 131,184; white females, 137,537 ; deaf and dumb, 135 ; blind, 105 ; aliens, 410. Total, whites, 268,721.— Free coloured, 602 ; deaf and dumb, 9. Portsmouth, the only sea-port, and the largest town in the state, is situated on the Piscataqua river, three miles from the sea. It has one of the finest harbours in the world, affording 40 feet water in the channel at low tide, and being easily acces- sible to vessels of the largest size, and completely landlocked. It is protected by several forts. The town stands on a peninsular elevation, sloping towards the harbour, and is well built. It contains eight churches, seven banking-houses, the county buildings, &cc., and is well supplied with good water brought from the neighbourhood. Two wooden bridges have been built across the Piscataqua, one of which is 1750 feet long. There is here a navy-yard belonging to the United States, situated on Navy Island, on the east side of the river, and within the limits of Maine. The population of Ports- mouth is 8082. Concord, the capital of the state, on the west side of the Mer- I I VERMONT. 71 r more nhabit- nexion d, who ivilized ive re- Lve now le state, ol lands p to the e taxes ; exceeds ipils. stitution,, tit in the ninations th some lolics. . . . 41,973 . . . 30,602 . . . 39.701 . . . 25,167 ite males, 5; blind, red, 602 ; ivn in the liles from affording ly acces- ndlocked. owards the les, seven supplied wo wooden if which is ing to the side of the n of Ports- )f the Mer- ) vimack river, is handsomely built on two principal streets. Here are the state-house and state prison, besides several banks, churches, hotels, &c. ; population 5063. In the south-east part of the state, are several towns largely engaged in manufactures : these are, Dover, Somersworth, Newmarket, and Exeter, which, besides its mills and manufactures, contains Phillips's Academy, a well-known and respectable seminary. These are all on navi- gable rivers, furnishing fine mill-seats and constant communica- tion with the sea. Nashua, near the south hne of the state, contains several large cotton-mills; its population in 1836 was 5065, having rather more than doubled it since 1830 : Hanover, the seat of Dartmouth college, Haverhill, and Lancaster, are towns of between 2000 and 3000 inhabitants ; and Amherst and Keene are neat thriving towns, between the Merrimack and Connecticut rivers. STATE OF VERMONT. Vermont is bounded north by Lower Canada ; east by New Hampshire ; south by Massachusetts ; west by New York, from which it is separated, in part, by Lake Champlain. It is 157 miles in length, from north to south ; 90 miles in breadth on the northern, and 40 on the southern boundary ; and contains an area of 8000 square miles. The Green Mountains, from which the state derives its name, on account of the evergreens with which they are covered, occupy a large part of the state ; and most of its surface is uneven. The range passes through its whole length, about half-way between Lake Champlain and the Connecticut river. From these mountains many streams take their rise : the most important are. Otter creek, Onion river, lia Moille, and Misisque, which empty into Lake Champlain, on the west; the White, Pasumpsic, and West rivers, which flow into the Connecticut, on the east. The soil is fertile; and all sorts of grain, suited to the climate, are produced in g^-oat abundance. Wool is becoming an impor- tant product iiere. Cattle of various kinds are raised, with great facility ; and nowhere is finer beef to be seen, than is fed on the rich white clover pastures of Vermont. The butter and cheese are well known for their excellence. Vermont is entirely in the interior; yet, by the system of internal improvement, the Champlain canal, and the lake, vessels ■.:5J| 1 iii'i k-tll i' J 72 NORTH AMERICA. '< i t: ■•ifi- and steam-boats have brought her territory in contiguity with the sea. Part of the trade goes by canu! to Albany, and part down the lake to Montreal. Iron occurs in great abundance, and is extensively wrought. Sulphuret of iron, or pyrites, is found at Stafford and Shrews- bury, from which 3,00^),000 pounds of copperas are annually manufactured, worth from 70,000 to 75,000 dollars. About 20 cotton-miils produce annually three and a half million yards of cloth, and 112,000 pounds of yarn. Domestic fabrics of linen and woollen are made in almost every family. In 1836, the constitution was amended by the establishment of two houses, styled the Senate and House of Representatives. The Legis.lative houses, the Governor, Lieutenani-Governor, and Executive Council, arc chosen annually by the people. Each town has a right to send one representative to the General Assembly. The judges are chosen annujuiy by that body. The Council of Ceuscrs is cliosen once every seven year;?, f^r the term of one ;'' ar, by popular vote. It is their duty to examine whether th';r ? have been any violations of the constitu- tion, and whether the /(egislative and Executive branches have done their duty, and also fo propose any alterations in the con- stitution. The towns are divided into school districts, each of which is required by law to support a school at least three months during the year. An annual tax is levied for their support, and the rent of the reserves of school land in each township, called here the school rights, is also distributed among the districts in proportion to the number of children in each, to aid in the same purpose. The number of school districts is 2800. There are 30 academies and county grammar-schools, for the support of which similar reservations were made : and the Uni- versity of Vermont, at Burlington, is endowed in the same way. Middlebury college has been founded by private funds. These institutions are attended by nearly 300 students, and there is a medical school connected with the former. The most numerous religious denominations are, the Congregationalists, Baptists, and Methodists ; and there are some Episcopalians, Christians, Uni- versalists, and Roman Catholics. POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. In 1790 85,539 1800 154,465 1810 217,895 1820 235,764 1830 280,657 INCREASE From 1790 to 1800 ......... 68,826 1800 to 1810 63,430 1810 to 1820 17,869 1820 to 1830 24,888 VERMONT. 73 rought. Ihrews- nnually bout 20 ards <>t" of linen ishment ntatives. ■nor, and . Each General )dy- ;oarS; f.n- duty to constitu- ihes have 1 the con- ols, for the id the Uni- same way. Is. These there is a t numerous aptists, and stians, Uni- 68,826 63,430 17,869 24,888 Of the ahove population of 1830, there were, white males, 139,986; white Females, 139,790; deaf and dumb, 153; blind, 61; aliens, 3364. Total, 297,775. — Coloured males, 426; Females, 455. Total, 881. The capital of the state is the little town of Montpelier, at the junction of the north and south branches of the Onion river. Here is a handsome state-house of granite, recently erected, together with the public buildings of the county. West of the mountains are several flourishing towns, which enjoy the advan- lu;') of an easy communication with Lake Champlain, and til rough it with the Hudson and St. Lawrence. St. Albans is a neatly built town on a small bay, with an active and increasing trade. Further south is Burlington, the largest town in the state, and the principal commercial place on the lake. It is pleasantly situated on a gently rising slope, overlooking the lake, and it has an excellent harbour. Here are the county buildings and the University of Vermont, and at the falls of the Onion river there are some manufactories. Middlebury, on Otter creek, contains some mills and a college. Marble of a good quality is quarried here. Higher up the stream is Rutland, containing quarries of marble, several manu- facturing establishments, and the public buildings of the county. On the same side of the mountains, in the southern part of the state, is Bennington, in the neighbourhood of which are found limestone, marble, and iron. Here are some mills and iron- works. Crossing the mountains and entering the rich valley of the Connecticut, we find a number of thriving towns and neat villages, lining its fertile meadows. Brattleboro' is a busy place, contain- ing some manufactories. The Vermont asylum for the insane has been built here. Windsor is a neat town in a picturesque situation, with the lofty peaks of Ascutney Mountain towering above it ; it contains a state prison built of granite. At the little village of Bellows' Falls, the Connecticut river is suddenly contracted from 300 to 16 or 20 feet wide, and rushes with great impetuosity through a narrow chasm cut in the solid rock, having a fall of nearly 50 feet in a half a mile. A canal with nine locks enables boats to pass round this obstruction to the higher parts of the river. Woodstock lies a little off from the river ; and higher up, but on the Connecticut, is Norwich ; civil engineerinp and other practical sciences receive particular attention in the in^'titution here, styled the Norwich University. If 74 NORTH AMERICA. ■ I ■1 i i^r,| !s '-V ' ', COMMONWEALTH OF MASSACHUSETTS. This state is bounded north by Vermont and New Hampshire, east by the Atlantic Ocean, south by Rhode Island and Connec- ticut, and west by New York. The average extent, from north to south, io 70 miles; and from east to west, 140: area, 7800 square miles. The Green Mountains range through the central parts of the state, from north to south. The highest peaks are Saddle Mt., Taghkonic, &c. Massachusetts has no large rivers wholly within her bounds. The Merrimack passes out of New Hampshire into the northern division of the state, emptying into the sea at Newbui;yport. The Connecticut, in traversing it from north to south, nearly bisects the state. The Housatonic, Charles, and Ipswich, Ne- ponset, and Taunton, though they have short courses, are plea- sant streams. The deep bay, between Cape Ann and Cape Cod, which has given name to the state, has caused it to be known in the other states by the name of Jie Bay State. Cape Ann bounds it on the north, and Cape Cod on the south. Agriculture receives here great attention, and is conducted with a superior degree of skill and intelligence. Massachusetts is no doubt the best cultivated state in the Union. Both the legislature and agricultural societies have made great efforts to encourage a skilful and thrifty husbandry, and to introduce the best foreign breeds of sheep and cattle. Commerce, manufac- tures, and the fisheries, are, however, the great objects of pursuit. The shipping belonging to this state amounts to about 470,000 tons ; being greater than that of any other state, atid nearly one- fourth of the whole tonnage of the country. The value of the imports for the year 1838 was 13,300,000 dollars; of exports, 9,104,862. There is also an active and extensive coasting trade carried on with all parts of the Union : the imports being chiefly raw produce and provisions, and the exports manufactureo articles. In 1837, the value of manufactures of all descriptions amount- ed to upwards of 86 million dollars, of which boots and shoes reached the sum of near 15 million dollars. Cotton and woollen goods were next in amount ; the fisheries, cotton-printing, lea- ther and morocco, nails, brads, &c. ; oil, clothing, Vc, bonnets, and books and stationary, were among the next most prominent. The persons employed in manufacturing were upwards of 117,000^, and the capital employed near 65 million dollars. The whole annual product of the agricultural, commercial, and manufacturing industry of the state, is probably not less than 120 million dollars. '4i II MASSACHUSETTS. Ta npshire, Connec- n north a, 7800 3 central jaks are bounds, northern )U^yport. I, nearly trich, Ne- are plea- !ape Cod, known in lape Ann conducted sachusetts Both the efforts to oduce the manufac" of pursuit. It 470,000 early one- lue of the >f exports, sting trade ing chiefly .nufactured ns amount- and shoes nd woollen inting, lea- c, bonnets, prominent, upwards of )llars. The ercial, and (t less than Sbip-building is extensively carried on. The shipping built annually amounts to 35,000 tons. And salt is also manufactured from sea-water, chiefly by solar evaporation, to the amount of about 500,000 bushels a year. Various important works of internal improvement have been executed, which afford great convenience and facility to travel- ling and transportation: they are the Middlesex canal, which extends from Boston to Lowell, 26 miles ; the Blackstone canal, from Worcester to Providence, 45 miles, and the fT impshire and Hampden canal, 20 miles in length, is a continuation of the Farmington canal, from Southwick, on the Connecticut line, to Northampton. Rail-roads have been constructed from Boston to Lowell, 20^ miles, and a branch to Haverhill of 18 miles ; likewise a con- tinuation from Lowell to Nashua, 15 miles long. There is a rail-road also from Boston to Providence, 42 miles, with a branch of 10 miles to Taunton ; and from Boston to Worcester, 43 miles. The Western rail-road, which has been begun, extends from Worcester, through Springfield and West Stockbridge, to the New- York line, 117 miles, where it will be connected with Albany, Hudson, and Troy, by roads already in progress. The eastern rail-road, also in progress, is to run from Boston, through Salem and Newburyport, to the New Hampshire line, 40 miles, where it will be connected with the Porlsmouth and Portland rail-road. Her literary, religious, and charitable institutions, are the pride of Massachusetts. Within a few years Boston alone has expended nearly two millions of dollars for objects of that cha- racter, exclusive of an annual expenditure of about $200,000, for the support of public and private schools. There are also 66 academics in the state, which, with the private schools, are attended by 25,000 schola»*s. Harvard University, at Cambridge, is the oldest and best en- dowed institution in the country ; it has a library of 43,000 volumes, and instruction is given by 30 teachers, in the various branches of a liberal education : law, theological, and medical books, are connected with it. William's College, at Williams- town, and Amherst College, at Amherst, are also resi»ectable institutions. The prevailing religious sect is the Congregationalist ; the Unitarians and Baptists are also numerous ; after these come the Methodists, Universal ists. Episcopalians, Christians, Roman Ca- tholics, and Friends, with some Presbyterians, Swedenboi:giansi, or New Jerusalem Church, and Shakers. "vl I m «r«T jti: 76 NORTH AMERICA ■■('. ii ■!1« 1 ■: POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. In 1701, 70,000 ; in 1742, 164,000 ; in 1763, i241,024 ; in 1765, 237,926; in 1776, 384,094 ; in 1784, 3.'>7,510. In 1790 348,787 increase. 1800 429,845 From 1700 to 1800 44,058 1810 472,040 1800 to 1810 49,195 1820 523,287 1810 to 1820 51,247 1830 610,408 1620 to IBS') 87,121 1837 701,331 1830 to 1 837 90,923 Of the above populaiion of 1830, there were, white males, 294,685 ; white females, 308,674 ; deaf and dumb, 256 ; blind, 218; aliens, 8787. Total whites, 603,359. Free coloured males, 3360 ; females, 3685 : total, 7045. Slaves, 4. Boston, the capital of Massachusetts, and the principal city of New England, is pleasantly situated on Boston Bay, with a safe and commodious harbour, deep enough to admit the largest ves- sels, and which is so completely landlocked as to be perfectly secure. Several forts, erected on the islands in the harbour, command the approaches lo the city. Besides the main peninsula on which the city is built, it comprises another peninsula, called South Boston, connected with the former by two free bridges; and the island of East Boston, with which communication is kept up by steam ferry-boats. Four wooden bridges also connect the city with Charlestown and Cambridge ; a solid causeway of earth unites it toBrookline, and a narrow neck of land which has been raised and widened by artificial constructions, joins it to Rox- bury. The populaiion, which in 1800 was 24,937 ; in 1820, 43,298, and in 1830, 64,392, amounted in 1837 to 80,325; but if the adjacent towns are included, which in fact form so many suburbs of the city, the population exceeds 100,000. The state-house, fronting a fine park of 75 acres, called the Common, and stand- ing on the most elevated part of the city ; the market-house, a handsome granite edifice, two stories high, 536 feet in length, by 50 in breadth ; the court-house, also of granite, 176 feet long, 67 high ; the city-hall, or old state-house, and Faneuil-hall, more interesting from historical associations than from their architect- ural merits ; and the Massachusetts General Hospital, a hand- some granite building, 168 feet in length; the Institution for the Blind, in which are about 70 pupils ; the Boston Athenajum, which has a library of 30,000 volumes, and a picture-gallery ; the Medical School of Harvard University ; the Eye and Ear Infirmary ; the Houses of Industry, Reformation, and Correc tion, also deserve mention. The bridges and wharves are remarkable for their great length. MASSACHUSETTS. 77 B males* I; blind, coloured x\ city of ith a safe rgest ves- perfectly harbour, peninsula jla, called > bridges; ion is kept onnect the jy of earth ti has been it to Rox- !0, 43,298, but if the ny suburbs itate-house, and stand- et-house, a ■t in length, 6 feet long, l.hall, more r architect- tal, a hand- jtion for the Athenajum, ure-gallery ; ye and Ear and Correc great length. The canal bridge is 2800 feet long ; the West Boston Bridge, 2760 feet, and some of the others exceed ir feet. The wharves have been constructed in a somewhat similar manner. Central wharf, latlO feet long, by 150 wide, contains 54 large ware- houses, four stories high. Long wharf, 1800 feet long, by 200 in width, has 70 warehouses equally spacious. Commercial wharf is 1100 feet, by 380, with a range of 34 granite ware- houses. As a commercial city, Boston is the second in the United States, in the amount of its business. In the beginning of 1838, the shipping belonging to the port, was 226,042 tons ; annual value of imports, lt3,000,000; of exports, 10,000,000 dollars. The number of hanking institutions is 28, with an aggregate capital of 24,980,000 dollars ; of insurance companies, 30, with a capital of about 89,000,000. This city has ever been distinguished 'or its attention to education. The free schools are, tho Latin school, the iV'.Qh school, 10 grammar and writing schools, 74 primary schools, and one African school for blacks. There are also numerous private scTiools for children of k)th sexes. The Ame- rican Academy of Arts and Sciences, the Historical Society, and the Natural History Society, are among the learned societies. There are 50 churches, two theatres, an Odeon, &c. Charlestown, which is connected with Boston by three bridges, stands on a loffy peninsula, the centre of which is occupied by Bunker Hill. Though irregularly built, it commands many fine views of the harbour and the surrounding country. The Bunker Hill Monument, of granite, is yet unfinished. It will form an obelisk, rising to the height of 220 feet from its base, which is 50 feet square. The United States' Dock-yard, comprising a num- ber of store-houses, arsenals, barracks, and slips, with a graving or dry-dock, built of hewn granite, was constructed in 1837. The population of the town is 10,101. Adjoining Charlestown, is Cambridge, the seat of Harvard University, with 6700 inha- bitants. At Watertown, adjoining Cambridge, there is an United States' Arsenal. To the south-west, is the little town of Brighton, noted for its cattle market, in which in the year 1835, the sales of cattle, calves, sheep, and swine, amounted to 1,878,032 dollars. Lynn, a neat and thriving town, whose inhabitants, beside making 2,000,000 pair of shoes annually, carry on the cod and whale fisheries, increased its population from 1638, in 1830, to 9327 in 1837. Marblehead, long the principal seat of the cod fishery, has of late turned its attention partly to mechanical industry, particularly to shoemaking, which occupies the winter leisure of manv of its hardv fishermen. About 60 sail of small fishing- 7 * " n 78 NORTH AMRRICA. I vessels, manned by ubout 500 men and boys, are owned here. Population 5569. The city of Salem, with 15,000 inhabitants, is noted for the commercial enterprise and industrious spirit of its citizens. It was lon^ largely engaged in the East India and China trade, and its coasting and foreign trade is still considerable ; but it labours under the disudvuntugo of not having a sufficient depth of water for the largest vessels. The inhabitants have lately engaged in the whale fishery, in which they employ 3000 tons ; the whole shipping of the port amounts to 33,085 tons. The city is neatly built, and it contains an Athenaeum, a Marine Museum, a valuable collection of natural and artificial curiosities, belonging to the East India Marine Society, which is composed wholly of nautical men ; nine banking institutions, with a capital of about 2,000,000 of dollars; six insurance companies, with a capital of 050,000 dollars; 17 churches, and several charitable institutions. The manufactures are also considerable. Beverly, connected with Salem by a bridge 1 500 feet in length, has 4609 inhabitants, chiefly occupied in commerce and the fisheries. Cape Ann, the north point of Massachusetts Bay, is occupied by the fishing town of Gloucester ; tonnage owned here, 16,287, population, 8822. A few miles north of the Cape, is the hand- some town of Newburyport, situated at the mouth of the Merri- mack. Its foreign commerce was formerly more extensive than it is at present, but its trade is still important, and the whale, mackerel, and cod fisheries, are also carried on from this place : tonnage, 22,264; population, 6741. The south point of the great bay from which the state takes its name, is Cape Cod, a long irregular peninsula, of 75 miles in length, by from 5 to 20 in breadth. It consists chiefly of hills of white sand, mostly destitute of vegetation. The cape is well inhabited, and supports a population of 28,000, the majority of which subsists by the fisheries and the coasting-trade. South of Cape Cod is the island of Nantucket, containing t^p town of the same name, with 9048 inhabitants. The island is merely a sand-bank, 15 miles in length, by about five or six in breadth, slightly elevated above the ocean. There are, however, some productive spots. The inhabitants arc distinguished for their enterprise. They have 74 ships engaged in the whale fishery, and a considerable number of small vessels in the coast- ing trade : 29,960 tons of shipping are owned here, and 2000 men and boys belonging to the island are employed in naviga- tion. Marthft's Vineyard is inhabited mostly by pilots and fishermen- RIIODK ISLAND. W 2d here. for tho ens. It ade, and ; labours of water gaged in he whole is neatly valuable ig to the r nautical ! ,000,000 ' 960,000 ns. The in length, 3 and tho 3 occupied e, 16,287, the hand- the Merri- insive than the whale, this place : ite takes its 5 miles in ;fly of hills ;ape is well majority of itaining t*"*? he island is vo or six in re, however, iguished for J the whale in the coast- •e, and 2000 d in naviga- id fishermen- but some salt, and woollen cloths, are made. Holmes* Hole, a safe and capacious harbour, on tho northern coast, is an important station for ships waiting for favourable weather to pass Cape Cod. Now Bedford is the great seat of tho whale-fishery. It is a handsomely built town, and has a safe and capacious harbour. The population, which in 1830 omounted to 7592, at present exceeds 11,000. The shipping of the district, which includes several other towns un the bay, is 81,252 tons : nearly the wholo of this is employed in the whale-fishery. There are here 10 large establistuienu m which spermaceti candles are made and oil is prepanxl : four baciis, with a capital of 1,300,000 dollars ; three insurance oSiscs. 14 churches and chapels, an academy, &c. Lowell is the greatest manuiicturing town in the United States : it has been very rapid in its growth, and may be considered the Manchester of America. It was commenced in 1813, but its principal increase dates from 1822 : it now contains 25,000 inhabitants. Its various cotton and woollen factories give employment to 9000 operatives, the greater part of whom are females. About 15i million pounds of cotton, and near 150,000 poinds of wool, are expended annually in the production of 50 million yards of cotton and woollen goods and carpeting. The supply of water- power, from the Merrimack, is convenient and unfailing. Lowell also contains powder-mills, flannel-works, grist and saw-mills, glass-works, &c. Among other places noted for manufactures, are Fall River village, near the mouth of Taunton river ; Taunton, on the river of the same name, and 32 miles south-west from Boston ; Worces- ter, west from Boston ; Springfield and Northampton, both on Connecticut river ; Pittsfield, in the western, and Adams, in the north-western part of the state. STATE OF RHODE ISLAND. Rhode Island is bounded north and east by Massachusetts, south by the Atlantic Ocean, and west by Connecticut. Its ex- tent from north to south is about 48 miles, and from east to west, 42 ; area, 1225 square miles. A large proportion of the north-western and western part of the state has a thin and lean soil, but the islands and country bordering on Narragansett Bay are of great fertility, and are celebrated for their fine cattle, and 1 80 NORTH AMERICA. Ihe abundance and excellence of their butter and cheese. The products are corn, rye, barley, oats, and some wheat. The island of Rhode Island is celebrated for its beautiful, cul- tivated appearance, abounding in smooth swells, and being divided with great uniformity into well-tilled fields. The climate much resembles that of Massachusetts and Connecticut in its salubrity : the parts of the state adjacent to the sea are favoured with refreshing breezes in summer, and its winter is the most mild of any of the New England states. The rivers are small, with courses of not more than 60 or 60 miles, and discharging an inconsiderable quaittity of water ; but as they descend from 200 to 450 feet, and arc steady in their supply of water, they furnish a great number of valuable mill- seats ; and they have been extensively applied to manufacturing purposes. The Pawtucket, Pawtuxet, and Pawcatuek, are the principal streams. The inhabitants have occupied themselves with commerce, the fisheries, and manufactures, rather than with agriculture. There are in the state many cotton-mills, woollen- mills, bleacheries, calico-print works, iron-foundries, machine-shops, tanneries, &c. There is a silk manufactory in Providence, and lace is made in Newport. The people of Rhode Island not having made a constitution for themselves, the government is still conducted according to the provisions of the royal charter of 1663. The official style is the State of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations. The Governor and Lieutenant-Governor are chosen annually by popular vote. The legislature, styled the General Assembly, consists of two houses, a Senate, chosen annually, and a House of Representatives, chosen semi-annually, which meet four times a year. The judges and other civil officers are appointed annu- ally by the General Assembly. The state appropriates 10,000 dollars a year for the support of common schools, and a somewhat larger sum is raised by the towns for the same purpose, in addition to which, considerable sums are raised by individual subscription, in order to keep the free schools open some time longer than the public funds would admit. Brown University, at Providence, is a respectable insti- tution on the plan of the other New England colleges. The Baptists and Congregationalists are the most numerous sects, the Episcopalians and Methodists are also numerous, and there are some Friends, Roman Catholics, and Universalists. POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. In 1701, 10,000; in 1730, 17,935; in 1748, 34,128; in 1755, 46,636; in 1774, ,59,678; in 1783, 51,809. r II RHODE ISLAND. INCREASE. In 1790 68,825. 1800 69,122 1810 76,931 1820 83,059 1830 97,199 From 1790 to 1800 297 1800 to 1810 7,809 1810 to 1820 6,128 1820 to 1830 14,140 81 SLAVES. ... 948 ... 380 ... 108 ... 48 ... 14 Of the above population of 1830, there were, white males, 45,333 ; white females, 48,288 ; deaf and dumb, 48 ; blind, 57 ; aliens, 1103. Total, whites, 93,621. — Free coloured males, 1644 ; females, 2020. Total, 3564.— Slaves, males, 3 ; females, 11. Total, 14. T'le principal city of Rhode Island is Providence, the second in New England in point of population, wealth, and commerce. It is situated at the head of Narragansett Bay, and is accessible to the largest merchant-vessels : it carries on an active coasting and foreign trade. The population of the city is 20,000. Here are 17 banks with a capital of about 5,000,000 dollars ; also a number of cotton-mills, bleacheries, dye-houses, machine-shops, iron-founderies, &>c. Among the public buildings are the state- house, the halls of Brown University, the arcade, a handsome granite edifice, 14 churches, a state prison, &c. Steam-boats, of the largest and finest class, keep up a daily communication with New York, during the greater part of the year ; the Black- stone canal, and Boston and Providence rail-road, terminate here ; and the latter is continued to Stonington in Connecticut. Pawtucket river, above Providence, is the seat of extensive manufactures. North Providence, on the Massachusetts border, contains the manufacturing village of Pawtucket, opposite which is the town of Pawtucket in that state. The whole manufacturing district is also commonly called Pawtucket, and it contains 20 cotton-mills, beside machine-shops, calico-printing works, iron- works, &c. There is a population of about 6000 souls on both sides of the river. Above this, the Pawtucket takes the name of Blackstone, and furnishes mill-seats which have created the village of Woonsocket Falls, also situated on both sides of the river, in the townships of Smithfield and Cumberland. There are also manufacturing establishments in other parts of Smithfield. The population at the Falls is about 3000. Warwick, on the Pawtuxet river and Narragansett bay, is a manufacturing and fishing town, with 5529 inhabitants. Bristol is a busy town, actively engaged in the foreign and coasting trade and whale fishery. Nearly at the south end of the Island of Rhode Island is Newport, once one of the principal towns in the colonies, and still a favourite summer resort, on m ■■,■ 1 \S ' '!'»!> 88 NORTH AMERICA. account of its pleasant situation, the refreshing coolness of the sea-breezes, and its advantages for sea-bathing. The harbour is one of the finest in the world, bein^- safe, capacious, and easy of access, and is defended by an important work called Fort Adams. Population, 8000. Prudence and Connecticut Islands in the bay, and Block Island, at the entrance of Long Island Sound, belong to this state. The latter, although destitute of a harbour, has nearly 2000 inhabitants, engaged in the fisheries. In. STATE OF CONNECTICUT. Tins state is bounded on the north by Massachusetts, south by Long Island Sound, east by Rhode Island, and west by New York. It is 90 miles in length, 70 miles in breadth, and contains 4764 square miles. The principal rivers are, the Connecticut, Housatonic, Thames, Farmington, and Naugatuck. The soil is good, and the industrious inhabitants have not neglected its cultivation. The valley of Connecticut river, from Middletown to the northern boundary of the state, is a luxuriant meadow, chequered by patches of wheat, corn, and other grain. Some other parts of the state are well cultivated and fruitful, and some portions are beautiful, as well from the gifts of nature as the improvements of art. The chief productions are Indian-corn, rye, wheat in many parts, oats, barley, buckwheat, flax in large quantities, &c. Orchards are numerous, and cider is made for exportation. The state is, however, generally better adapted to grazing than tillage, and its fine meadows and pastures enable the farmer to feed great numbers of neat cattle, horses, and sheep. The quantity of butter and cheese, annually made, is great, and of well-known excellence. The whale and seal fisheries are carried on from several of the ports, and there are several shad fisheries on the rivers. The coasting trade is considerable, but most of the foreign trade is carried on through New York. The manufactures of Connecticut are considerable, and the ingenuity and industry of the people in this respect have a repu- tation coextensive with the Union. The principal articles are cotton and woollen goods, clocks, combs, and buttons, tin and wooden ware. Implements, and utensils of various descriptions are among the products of manufacturing industry. In 1832, ihere were in the state 104 cotton-mills and 80 woollen factories. The annual value of cotton and woollen goods, iron manufactures, axes, boots, and shoes, buttons and combs, paper, coaches and 1 2i cd 8 sil CONNECTICUT. 83 wagons, with other articles, amounted to an aggregate of 8,000,000 dollars. Common schools are supported by the proceeds of the school fund belonging to the state, which are distributed among the school districts in proportion to the number of children in each, between the ages of four and sixteen years. The money thus distributed is applied solely to paying the expense of instruction, the other charges being paid by the districts. The number of children of the above description, is about 84,000. The school fund amounts to about 2,027,402 dollars, and the income is nearly 95,000 dollars. There are three colleges in the state, viz., Yale College, at New Haven, Washington College at Hartford, and the Wesley an University at Middletown. Yale College is one of the oldest and most respectable, and the most frequented of the collegiate insti- tutions in the country. Attached to it are a theological depart- ment, a medical institute, and a law school. The duties of instruction are performed by 27 teachers. The Congregationalists are the most numerous religious sect ; after them rank the Baptists, Methodists, and Episcopalians ; and there are some Universalists, Roman Catholics, and Shakers. The Farmington canal extends from New Haven to the Mas- sachusetts line, 56 miles ; whence it is continued to Northampton, by the Hampshire and Hampden canal. Enfield canal, 5^ miles in length, serves to overcome a fall in the Connecticut, and sup- plies valuable mill-seats. A rail-road also extends from Providenc* to Stonington, in this state, 45 miles in length; it is intended to . j connected by a steam ferry-boat with the termination of the Long Island rail-road. Anotherrail-road was lately finished from New Haven to Hartford, a distance of 40 miles. Norwich and Worces- ter rail-road, 60 miles in length, is nearly completed. POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. 13,056 10,940 13,306 22,417 Of the above population of 1830, there were, white males, 143,047 ; white females, 146,556 ; of which are, deaf and dumb, 294; blind, lo3; aliens, 1481. Total, whites, 289,603.— Free coloured, 804/ ; slaves, 25 ; deaf and dumb, 6 ; blind, 7. Total, 8075. New Haven, the principal city of the state, is beautifully situated on a bay of the same name. The harbour is safe and c pacious, but it is shallow, and gradually filling up. The city is In 1701.. . 30,000 In 1790. .. 237,946 INCREASE 1749.. . 100,000 1800. .. 251,002 From 1790 to 1800. 1756. . 130,611 1810. .. 261,942 1800 to 1810. 1774. . 197,856 1820. . 275,248 1810tol8?n. 1782. . 209,150 1830. . 297,665 1820 to 1830. A ' ■-r m > "» t " m* 84 NORTH AMERICA. ■:\'\i regularly laid out and neatly built : many of the houses have fine gardens ; some of the chief streets are bordered by rows of shade trees, and the principal square is finely ornamented in the same manner. Among the public buildings are the state-house, the state-hospital, the halls of Yale College, 12 churches, &c. One of the wharves here is 3943 feet in length. The coasting and foreign trade of New Haven is considerable : steam-boats and packets keep up a regular and easy communi- cation with New York ; and there are some extensive manufac- tories, particularly in fire-arms, carriages, &c. The population is about 12,000. Bridgeport, south-west of New Haven, is a busy, thriving town, with a good harbour on the Sound. In the interior are Danbury and Litchfield, with some manufacture^;' North-east from New Haven, on the banks of the Connecticui river, is the city of Hartford ; a neat and pleasant town, with considerable coasting trade. The city has at present a popula- tion of about 10,000. Steam-boats run daily between Hartford and New York, and several small steam-packets and tow-boats are employed on the river above. The annual amount of the manufactures of Hartford is about 1,000,000 dollars; the princi- pal branches are printing and publishing, shoe-making, &c. Among the public buildings are a state-house, city hall, 12 churches, the asylum for the deaf and dumb, retreat for th<} insane, &>c. The city of Middletown, a few miles be^^w Hartford, is acces- sible to vessels drawing ten feet of water, and its coasting and foreign trade is considerable. The situation of the town is pleasant, and the houses and public buildings neat. Its manufactures are also pretty extensive, comprising cotton and woollen goods, fire-arms, paper, machinery, &c. Population of the city, 3000. Saybrook, at the mouth of the Connecticut river, was the first spot occupied by the English in Connecticut, and the ground was regularly laid out for a large city ; but the anti- cipations of its founders have not been realised. At the mouth of the Thames stands the city of New London : it is the principal commercial place in Connecticut, with one of the best harbours in the country. Its trade is considerable ; upwards of 40 ships sail from this place to the whale-fishery; and the shore-fishery is also actively carried on. Population, 5000. Norwich, 13 miles above New London, is a flourishing manu- facturing city, situated in a beautiful and fertile tract. The water-power is here ample, and is already extensively employed for useful purposes. There are in the township 17 manufactu- n MIDDLE STATES. 85 ring establishments, eight churches, four banks, &c. Stonington, in the south-east corner of the state, has 12 vessels in the seal- fishery, and carries on the shore-fishery successfully. MIDDLE STATES. The Middle States are bounded on the north by Canada, the river St. Lawrence, and Lakes Ontario and Erie ; south by Virginia ; east by the Atlantic Ocean and New England ; west by the states of Ohio and Virginia. As a region, the Middle States comprise New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and Delaware ; it extends from north to south about 460 miles, and from east to west, 360 miles, with an area of about 103,000 square miles, and occupies one of the finest parts of the Union. The surface presents every variety of mountain, hill, plain and valley. The Alleghany range extends through this region from south-west to north-east, in several parallel ridges, and attains in Pennsylvania its widest limits ; none of these, however, reach the elevation of the highest summits of the Blue Ridge in North Carolina, or the White Mountains w New Hampshire. The most prominent rivers of ' he Atlantic sections of the United States are in this region. The H idson and Delaware rank amongst the most important and useful of our navigable streams ; but the Susquehanna is, notwithstanding its length, but little available without the aid of artificial navigation. The mineral productions are various and valuable. Bitumi- nous and anthracite coal, several kinds of iron ore, salt, lime, excellent building materials, and clays useful in the arts, are among the treasures in which it abounds. Mining industry has acquired importance from the activity and success with which it has lately been pushed ; and the public works of this section are particularly remarkable for their number and magnitude. In general the soil is fertile, and particularly favourable to the production of every species of grain : wheat is the principal object of culture ; tobacco is extensively raised ; also Indian-corn, rye, barley, &c. The planting of mulberry trees, and the rearing of silk-worms, with a view to the extensive introduction of the manufacture of silk, has recently been prosecuted with great activity, in this division of our country, as well as elsewhere throughout the United States. The fruits common to the tem- perate regions are abundant, and of excellent quality, The com- merce of the Middle States is extensive, and chiefly carried on through the cities of New York and Philadelphia, to which it 8 ■?i:«: ■■■■\V ■ ^H ft 'Ik ff i'ii v m 80 NORTH AMERICA. i 1 1 1 ' i ■ I ■ t ■■ ! j ;ii!| 'if ^i ill centres ; the trade, however, of a considerable part of Pennsyl- vania and Delaware flows to Baltimore. Manufacturing industry is carried to a greater extent, in pro- portion to the population, than in any part of the United States, e.vcepting New England ; it employs a vast amount of capital and labour, and aflbrds generally a competent remuneration to thousands of both sexes. The Middle States were originally settled by people of various countries, having different habits, feelings, and opinions : society, therefore, does not possess that uniform character which admits of a general description. The great body is of British descent, but in New York and Maryland there are many Germans ; and in Pennsiylvania they are so numerous as to constitute, in some respects, a separate community, retaining their own language, and being often ignorant of the English. In New York and New Jersey i here are many descendants of the original Dutch puttiers of New Amsterdam ; and in some sections the Dutch language is l>a.-'tiatly spoken. After the close of the revolutionary war, an extensive emigra- tion i <^ the New England states into New York continued for mauy years, and a majority of the present population of that state are natives of New England, or their descendants. There is also a considerable body of New England emigrants in Pennsylvania. The whole population of the four middle states was in 1830, 3,664,412, in which number are 6066 slaves, and 116,957 free blacks. The inhabitants are now estimated at 4,500,000. STATE OF NEW YORK. This great state, the most flourishing, wealthy, and populous in the Union, exhibits one of those amazing examples of growth and prosperity that are seen nowhere on the globe beyond our own borders. New York is the most northern of the middle states, and is bounded north by Lake fario. 'he St. Lawrence river and Lower Canada ; east by Vermont, Massachusetts, and Connecti- cut ; south by the Atlantic Ocean, New Jerse v , and Pennsylva- nia; and west by Lake Erie, Pennsylvania, and the Niagara river. Length, 316 miles; breadth, 304: containing about 47,000 square miles. The principal rivers are the Hudson, St. Lawrence, Delaware, Susquehanna, Alleghany, Genessee, Niagara, Oswego, and the Mohawk. A part of the lakes Erie, Ontario, and Champlain, are NEW YORK. 87 in this state. The other principal lakes are, Lake George, Cayuga, Seneca, Oneida, Oswegatchie, Canandaigua, &c. The soil in the maritime part of the state is sandy, in the middle beautifully undulating, and in the western and southern division remarkably level, rich, and inclining to alluvial forma- tion. Iron ore is found in inexhaustible quantities and of a good quality, in the north-eastern part of the state ; it occurs also in some oi' the central, eastern, and south-western counties. Lead is found in some parts of the state ; also gypsum, in the central counties, where it is extensively used for agricultural purposes. Limestone likewise occurs. Salt is procured in abundance from the Onondaga salt-springs, in the township of Salina ; the brine is conducted to Salina, Syracuse, and other neighbouring villages, where the salt is obtained by boihng, by solar evaporation, and by artificial evaporation, 55 gallons of water yielding a bushel of salt. The quantity of salt made in 1826, was 827,508 bushels ; in 1830, 1,435,446; in 1838, 2,575,000 bushels. The well-known springs of Ballston and Saratoga are partly saline, partly chalybeate, and the water is exported in considerable quantities not only to other states, but to foreign countries. In the western part of the state, there are burning springs, yielding carburetled hydrogen, which is applied to economical uses in the neighbouring villages. Wheat is the great agricultural staple of the state, and flour and provisions are largely exported. The manufactures of New York arc also extensive and flourish- ing; the aggregate value of manufactured articles, in the year 1835, was stated to be 60,669,067 dollars; that of the 'raw materials used, amounted to the sum of 43,400,922 dollars. In addition to these, there were made in families, cloth, flannels, and other woollens, and cotton, linen, &c., of the aggregate value of 2,092,984 dollars. The cotton and woolirn i.,;lls produced 24,175,357 yards of cotton cloth, 6,026,058 of woollen, and 686,203 of mixed cotton and woollen. The commerce of New York is also on a great scale, as, beside supplying her own wants and exporting her surplus productions, she imports a large share of the foreign articles consumed in the neighbouring Atlantic states, as well as in many of the western states, to which her natural and artificial channels of communi- cation give her access ; and her great commercial empurium is the outlet for the produce of the same regions. Thus, the value of the importations is about 90,000,000 dollars, or nearly three-fifths of the whole imports of the country; while that of the exports is 30,000,000 dollars, or more than one-fourth ,'i, m Tf |! M ll ' li 88 NORTH AMERICA, ■.'I ' 'lii 'iii , ■ ■ 'If ill of the whole exports of the United States. The shipping belong- ing to the state, is nearly 400,000 tons. Forty-five ships, of 13,000 tons, were engaged in the whale-fishery in the same year, chiefly from Sag Harbcir, Hudson, Newburg, and Pough- keepsie. This state is distinguished for its magnificent public works, constructed for the purpose of connecting the great central basin of the lakes and the St. Lawrence with the Atlantic ; 663 miles of canal navigation have been obtained, at the cost of 13,497,568 dollars. The great trunk is the Erie canal, extending from Bufl^alo on Lake Brie to the Hudson, 364 miles. The total value bf the articles transported annually on these canals, is estimated to exceed 40,000,000 dollars. Provision has recently been made for enlarging this great work, the longest of the kind in the world, by increasing the width to 60, and the depth to six feet. The Chaiiiplnin canal extends from Lake Champlain, at Whitehr.'i, lu the junction of the Erie canal with the Hudson, 64 miles, with a navigable feeder of 12 miles. Other branches of this work, pervading different parts of the state, are the Oswego canal, 38 miles, connecting the Erie canal, at Salina, with Lake Ontario ; Cayuga and Seneca canal, 23 miles, extending from Geneva to Montezuma on the Erie canal, and thus continuing the navigation through those two lakes ; Crooked Lake, eight miles, connecting that Lake with Seneca Lake ; Chemung canal, from the head of the latter to the river Chemung, or Tioga, at Eirnira, 23 miles, with a navigable feeder from Painted Post to Elmira, ori6 miles; Chenango canal, 97 miles in length from Binghamton, oii the Chenango, to Utica. Appropriations have been made by the Legislature for the con- struction of the Black River canal, 75 miles in length, from Rome on the Erie canal, to Carthage on Black River; and the Genesee Valley canal, from Rochester to Oiean, on the Alleghany river, 107 rniles. Beside the works constructed by the state, the principal canal made by a private company is the Delaware and Hudson. Total length, 109 miles, of which 26 are in Pennsylvania. A rail-road runs to the coal-mines at Carbondale, a distance of 16 miles, passing over Moosic Mountain, which is 1580 feet above tide- water, and 850 above the coal-mines. The following are the principal rail-roads already completed : the Mohawk and Hudson, from Albany to Schenectady, 15 rniles, continued northwardly by the Schenectady and Saratoga rail-road, 22 miles, and westwardly by the Schenectady and Utica rail-road, 77 miles ; the Auburn and Syracuse rail-road, 26 miles ; the Tonawanda rail-road, from Rochester to Attica, NEW YORK. sa ong- I, of ^ear, .ugh- orks, basin miles 7,568 from value mated made world, lin, at ion, 61 ;hes of )swego h Lake 0 to 1830. . 545,796 2,i ) i,517 1 830 to 1835 . . 255,909 Of the above populatit.n of 1830, there were, white males, 951,516; white female., 916,670; deaf and dumb, 842; blind, 642; aliens, 52,488. Total, 1, 868,1 66.~Free coloured males, 21,465 ; females, 23,404. Total, 44,869.— Slaves— males, 12 ; females, 64. Total, 76. The city of New York is the largest, most wealthy, and most flourishing ofallthe American cities; the greatest commercial em- porium of the western continent, and, after London, the greatest in the world. No city in the world possesses equal advantages for foreign commerce and inland trade. Two long lines of canals, stretching back in every direction, have increased its natural advantages, and rendered it the great mart of an almost indefinite extent of country, while its facilities of communication with all parts of the world, have made it the thoroughfare of the same vast region. The progress of its population has never been paralleled ; in 1790, it was 33,131 ; in 1810, 96,373; in 1830, 203,007; in 1835, 270,089 ; and now not less than 300,000. 14 ^ NEW YORK. 01 It is chiefly as n groat mart of foreign and inland commerce if at New Yoric is most advantageously known. The shipping belonging to the port in 1838, amounted to 410,879 tons ; entered during the year, 466,665 tons ; cleared, 866,389 tons ; tho annual number of arrivals from foreign ports exceeds 20U0. There arc regular packets plying between this place and Liverpool, packets to London and Havre, lines cfsteam^ships to Bristol, «i:c., and packets to Vera Cruz, Carthagena, &c. The inland and coasting trade is also immense. There are hero 22 banking institutions, with a capital of 20,161,200 dollars, besides the free banking companies which have recently been formed under a law of the state ; und 43 insurance companies, with a capital of 14,800/'O0 dollars. Among the public buildings are the City Hall, a h; ne edifice of white marble, with a front of 216 feet ; the " ' .iver- sity, a splendid building, 180 by 100 feet; the Tibia College ; tho Hospital ; the City Lyceum ; 150 cli ; An- tor House, a hotel, of Quincy granite, 200 feet I i-jU md 77 feet high, containing 390 rooms ; the Almshouse at B(;llt,vue,on East river ; the Penitentiary, on Blackwcll's Island, in the same river, several miles from the city ; the Custcm-Housc, an elegant building, 177 feet long, by 89 feet wide, on the model of the Par- thenon ; the new Exchange, erected in the place of the one de- stroyed by fire in 1835 ; the Hall of Justice, &c. New York is to be supplied with fresh water by means of an aqueduct, 42 miles in length, extending to the Croton river. The cost of this work will be about 12,000,000 dollars. It is advancing rapidly to completion. The benevolent societies are numerous and well supported. They comprise an Hospital, with which is connected a Liuiatic Asylum, at Blooiningdule; a hospital at Bellevuc, for the sick and insane poor, connected with the city Almshouse ; three Dispen- saries ; an Institution for the Blind; one for the Deaf and Dumb; and a great number of orphan asylums, relief associations, edu- cfition, Bible, and tract societies, &c. Neither is New York behind her sister cities in her literary and scientific establish- ments. Beside the educational institutions already mentioned, the His- torical Society; the New York Society Library, with 25,000 volumes; the Lyceum of Natural History, and the American LycGun, have published some valuable papers ; while tho Mer- cantile Library Association, and the Apprentices' Library, show that the merchants and mechanics are not indifferent to the intel- lectual improvement of their apprentices and clerks. There are also here an Academy of Fine Arts and an Aca- demy of Design. The American Institute, for the promotion of I ■ : .. S 'j IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I Ui jjUi |2.5 ■ so ^^~ NI^S £f 144 "« ^ HA 12.0 12.2 M L2^ i u 116 '. /Q HiotDgraphic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WEBSTIR.N.Y. MStO (716)S72-4503 '^ n 1 ■J ^r ■ -^ -U". IP ' !ilp I'll I ill • II '" .1 1 92 NORTH AMERICA. domestic industry by the distribution of premiums and other re< wards, holds annual fairs for the exhibition of the products of American industry. The city of Brooklyn, on Long Island, opposite to New York, is pleasantly situated on a rising ground which commands an agreeable view, and it partakes in the commercial activity and prosperity of its neighbour. Here is a navy-yard of the United States, on Wallabout Bay. There are in Brooklyn a handsome city hall, 17 churches, three banks, two insurance companies, &c. Steam ferry-boats are constantly running between this place and New York, and a rail-road extends to Jamaica, 12 miles of which, the continuation to Greenport, is already in pro- gress. Its population has increased from 15,394 in 1830, to 24,520 in 1835, and is now not less than 30,000. About 50 miles above the city of New York, and on the west side of the Hudson, is West Point, a celebrated military post during the war of independence, and now the seat of the United States' Military Academy for the education of officers of the army. Newburg, 10 miles above West Point, and on the right bank, with 5000 inhabitants, and Poughkeepsie, 14 miles higher, on the left, with 6281, are neat, thriving villages, with considerable trade, and several ships engaged in the whale-fishery. Near the head of ship navigation, 117 miles from the sea, stands the city of Hudson, on a commanding eminence on the left bank of the river. Its trade and manufactures are extensive and increasing, and it has 11 ships, of about 4000 tons, engaged in the whale-fishery. The city is well laid out and prettily built, and the neighbourhood presents many charming prospects. The population in 1830 amounted to 5392, and in 1835 to 5531, and is now about 6000. On the western bank of the Hudson river, 145 miles above New York, is the city of Albany, the capital, and in point of size the second city of the state. Its wealth and trade have been greatly increased by the opening of the Erie and Champlain canals, which terminate in a large basin in the city ; and its situ- ation renders it a great thoroughfare, not only for traders, but also for travellers on the northern route. It contains several handsome public buildings, among which are the old state hall ; the new state hall, and the city hall, both of white marble ; the academy, of red freestone; 14 churches, &c. The Albany institute, with a library, and cabinet of mine- rals, coins, and casts ; the Athenceum has a library of above 8000 volumes; and there is also an Academy of Fine Arts here. Regular steam-packets leave twice a day for New York ; 'i j NEW YORK. 98 numerous canal packets and raiUroad cars are constantly depart- ing for the northern and western routes ; and several lines of stage-coaches keep up a communication with the east. The number of persons who annually pass through the city, has been estimated at upwards of 600,000. The population in 1820 was 12,630; in 1830, 24,209, and now at least 30,000. The city of Troy, six miles above Albany, is situated on the opposite side of the river. The trade and manufactures of this place are both considerable. The city is regularly laid out and prettily built. The population in 1830 was 11,405, and at pre- sent 18,000. Nearly north from Albany, at a distance of 29 and 36 miles respectively, are the most frequented of American watering-places, Ballston Spa and Saratoga. At the eastern end of Lake Ontario, at the head of a deep bay, is Sackett's Harbour, an important naval station during the three years' war ; and on the Black river, seven miles from its mouth, the flourishing village of Watertown, prettily situated and IS neatly built, with a population of 3500 inhabitants. Up the valley of the Mohawk, and along the line of the Grand canal and its branches, are a number of cities and towns, which have sprung up, as if by enchantment, in the bosom of a wider- ness. Schenectady, Utica, Syracuse, Oswego, Auburn, Ithaca, Seneca, Canandaigua, Rochester, Lockport, and Buffalo, are the principal. The city of Schenectady, situated in the midst of a fertile tract, affording numerous mill-seats, traversed by the canal, and con- nected by rail-roads with Albany, Saratoga, and Utica, has an extensive and increasing trade, and some manufactures. It is the seat of Union College, one of the principal collegiate institu- tions in the state. Population, 7000. Upwards of 90 miles north-west from Albany, on the Grand canal, is the city of Utica. In 1794, the spot contained only four or five log houses, in the midst of a wilderness. Population, 12,000. Here are 13 churches, an academy, a state and county lyceum, a city library, a mechanics' association, with an exten- sive trade, and numerous manufactories and mills. Still farther west, on the canal, are the villages of Srlina, Syracuse, Geddes, and Liverpool, the seat of the Onondaga salt- springs, which are the property of the state : the manufacturers pay a duty of six cents a bushel. The works are capable of producing 3,000,000 bushels a year. Population of Syracuse in 1838, 5000 ; of Salina, 8000. From Syracuse, a branch canal extends to Oswego, on Lake Ontario, one of the most flourishing villages in the state : the river of the same name furnishes an inexhaustible water-power, Wi 94 NORTH AMERICA, ii'! 11 'I'i/S = ' (I '.■I'. •II which is very extensively employed for useful purposes ; and an excellent harbour, protected by piers, constructed by the general government. Since the opening of the Welland canal, a considerable por- tion of the trade of the upper lakes, as well as that of Lake On- tario, enters at Oswego, and large quantities of wheat are brought in to be ground here. The population is about 5000, having more than doubled since 1830. The city of Rochester, situated on the Genesee, seven miles from its mouth, and traversed by the Great canal, is a busy and flourishing town. The river has here a fall of upwards of 90 feet, and a few miles below, it descends by a fall of 75 feet to the level of Lake Ontario : the whole descent from Rochester is 255 feet. The motive power thus produced, is constant and immense, and there arc now in the city 21 large flour-mills, several cotton- and woollen manufactories, and a great number of other manufactu- ring establishments. The aqueduct over the river is a solid piece of work, covisting of 10 arches of hewn stone. The population of the ciiy increased from 1502 in 1820, to 9269 in 1830, and 17,160 in 1837. The city of Buffalo, at the western termination of the canal, has a harbour on Lake Erie, protected by a long pier. The city is well built, and finely situated, overlooking the lake ; and it contains a great number of large warehouses and manufactories. The population in 1820 was 2095 ; in 1830, 6321 ; and is now 20,000. The lake-trade is very extensive. It 1817 there were but 25 vessels, and no steam-boat, on Lake Erie ; and in 1838 they amounted to 500 sloops, schooners, and brigs, and a number of steam-boats, most of which exceed 200 tons burthen; beside several ships, &c. Buffalo contains, in addition to its num- churches, a handsome exchange, a large and splendid the , &c. The village of Ithaca, at the head of the Cayuj[;a Lake, is a busy thriving place. By the Owego rail-road ii is connected with the Susquehanna, and by the lake with the Erie canal and tide-water. Its situation is highly picturesque. There are nu- merous manufacturing establishments here. Dunkirk, a small village on Lake Erie, has a commodious artificial harbour, f'^rmed by the erection of a pier projecting 2000 feet into the lake, and a breakwater 1340 feet in length, in front of the bay. The New York and Erie rail-road will terminate at this port. At Portland harbour there is a light-house supplied by natural gas, which rises in abundant quantity near that place. ^ ..ill NEW JERSEY. 95 STATE OF NEW JERSEY. The state of New Jersey is bounded north by New York, east by the Atlantic Ocean and New York, south by Dglaware Bay, and west by Pennsylvania. It is 138 miles in length, and 50 miles in breadth ; the area is about 8320 square miles. The soil of this state is not naturally well adapted to agricultural pursuits, much of the land being either sandy or marshy ; yet its proximity to two of the largest markets in the United States, and the in- dustry of the inhabitants, have rendered it exceedingly productive of all sorts of grain, fruits, and vegetables common to the climate. New Jersey is intersected by many navigable rivers, and has numerous streams for mills, iron works, and every species of manufactures requiring water-power. The principal of these streams are the Raritan, Hackensack, Passaic, Salem, Tom, Cohanzey, and Maurice rivers. The state contains valuable iron ores ; rich veins of zinc ore occur in the northern part of the state; copper also abounds, and has been extensively worked. The greater part of the sandy tract is covered with extensive pine forests, which have afforded supplies of fuel for the numerous furnaces ofthe state, and the steam -boats of the neighbouring waters ; the middle section is the most highly im- proved and wealthy part ofthe state, being divided into small farms and kitchen-gardens, which are carefully cultivated, and which find a ready market in the numerous manufacturing towns of the district, and in the great cities of the adjacent states. The northern counties contain much good pasture land, with numerous fine farms. The apples and cider of the north are as noted for their superior quality as the peaches of the south. The industry ofthe inhabitants is chiefly devoted to agriculture, com- merce being mostly carried on through the ports of New York and Pennsylvania; the north-eastern corner is, however, the seat of flourishing manufactures. The shad and oyster fisheries in the rivers and great estuaries that border on the state, afford a profitable employment to many of the inhabitants. The value of the iron manufactures was esti- mated, in 1830, at about 1,000,000 dollars annually; of glass, 500,000; of cottons, 2,000,000; of woollens, 250,000: but all these branches have very much increased since that time. Hats, boots and shoes, carriages, harness, &c. are also largely manu- factured. The system of common school instruction has hitherto been defective; but, in consequence of the recent efforts of the friends of education, measures have been commenced which 'M n n ', i .? V NORTH AMKRICA. 96 ;>»«-»«•* school -funa» p,„™i. cheering -us m»«-ej-^^^^^^ -There ^^e iwo ---b-; Princeton, is a hjgmy -»-- ^ Jersey, °^Nassau HaU, at ^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^ l^a^ New Bruns- ware and Rany part of jst, is 307 I, Lehigh, ind Ohio, he centra* nth-west to ;9 are ofter f grass ano nost vo theii tions of the ous for tht of draught great, and, dy gives an iceur in vast inds, the an- heir qualities t of the state, [ is estimated 38, the qtjan- the river Ohio to About 1,000,000 the works on the lily sent from the coul region, exclusive of that shipped by the Susquehanna, was 723,813 tons, valued at more than 4,000,000 dollars. The bituminous coal is found in the western parts of the state : it is supposed that about 460,000 tons are annually consumed in Pittsburg, and at the different salt-works on the Kiskiminetas, &c., besides what is sent down Cincinnati, Now OrL-ans, and other towns, bushels of salt are manufactured yearly at Kiskiminetas, Alleghany, and Beaver. Iron ore of an excellent quality is abundant and extensively wrought. In 1832, upwards of 60 furnaces, and 100 forges, produced near 90,000 tons of pig iron, blooms, bar iron, and castings ; and no doubt the amount has much increased since that time. The manufactures of Pennsylvania constitute an important branch of its industry ; they include cotton and woollen goods, iron ware of all kinds, manufactures of leather, hats, paper, furniture, porcelain, &c. In the year 1832, there were 67 cot- ton factories in the state, with an aggregate capital of 3,758,500 dollars, and making annually 21,332,667 yards of cloth. The total value of manufactures, including about 250 difierent arti- cles, is estimated at upwards of 70,000,000 dollars. , Pennsyl- vania has about 2,000,000 sheep. The foreign commerce of Pennsylvania is in part carried on through New York, Baltimore, and New Orleans ; and its actual amount cannot therefore be fully ascertained. The value of the direct imports is about 13,000,000 dollars ; of exports, near 4,000,000 dollars. An active inland trade is prosecuted on her canals, on Lake Erie, and on the Ohio ; and her coasting-trade is extensive and valuable. Pennsylvania has at length aroused herself to the necessity of providing the means of education to the children within her borders. By an act passed in 1834, and modified in 1836, the townships are authorised to raise money for the support of com- mon schools, and to draw additional sums for that purpose from the state treasury. According to a recent report to the legisla- ture, the number of scholars taught under this system already amounts to 233,719, besides 17,000 in the city and county of Philadelphia. In the latter district moreover, a central high school has recently been established, by which a higher grade of education is bestowed on those who merit it by superior con- duct and capacity. There are in the state fiily-five academies, two universities, eight colleges, five theological seminaries, and two medical schools. The University of Pennsylvania is in Philadelphia, % i ' 100 NORTH AMERICA. m :f!ilJ M and the medical school connected with it is the most distinguish* cd and most fully attended in the United States. The Western University is at Pittsburg. Jcftcrson College, at Canonsburg, which has a medical department in Philadelphia ; Dickinson College, at Carlisle; Alleghany College, at Meadville ; Wash- ington College, at Washington ; Pennsylvania College, at Get- tysburg ; Lafayette College, at Easton ; and Marshall College, nt Mercersburg, are now in operation. Girard College, endowed with a fund of 2,000,000 dollars by Mr. Girard, and intended for the support and education of destituUj orphans, will soon be organized. The edifices for this institution are nearly completed, and in architectural magnificence probably exceed any other in the United States. The Methodists and Presbyterians are the most numerous re- ligious sects. The Lutherans, Baptists, German Reformed, and Friends, rank next in point of numbers ; after them, come Epis- copalians and Roman Catholics, with some Moravians or United Brethren, Dutch Reformed, Universalists, &c. The works for the improvement of internal intercommunica- tion, have been executed partly by the state, and partly by indi- viduals, on a grand scale. Those of the state consist of several divisions composed of rail-roads and canals, extending across the country from tide-water to the Ohio, and branching off in differ- ent direetions to almost every section of the state. The grand trunk extends from Philadelphia to Pittsburg, and is one of the most important works of the kind in the United States. The first division of the work, from Philadelphia to Columbia on the Susquehanna, is a rail-road, 81 miles in length. At Co- lumbia the canal begiiis, and is continued up the Susquehanna and Juniata, to Holidaysburg, 172 miles. The Alleghany ridge is then surmounted by the Alleghany Portage raiUroad, 37 miles in length, with a rise and fall of 2570 feet : the summit-level is 2490 feet above the sea. At Johnstown, the route is again con- tinued by a canal, down the Kiskiminetas and Alleghany, to Pittsburg, 104 miles. Total by canal and rail-road, 394 miles. A branch of this great undertaking is the Susquehanna canal, extending from the mouth of the Juniata, up the Susque- hanna and the North Branch, to the mouth of the Lackawanna, 115 miles: a second lateral division runs up the West Branch, to Dunnstown, 66 miles. The Delaware branch extends from Bristol to Easton, 60 miles : the Beaver Branch, from the town of the same name, up the Big Beaver and Shenango rivers, to Newcastle, affords a navigable channel of 30 miles, by means of eight miles of excavation, and seven dams in the river. The French Creek branch extends up that river, from Franklin, at Hi PENNSYLVANIA. 101 ;uish' jstern iburg, Linson iVash- t Get- oUege, idowed itended oon be ipleted, )ther in rous re- led, and le Epis- r United imunica- by indi- f several cross the in differ- 'he grand >ne of the Columbia . At Co- jquehanna wny ridge 1, 37 miles mit-level is again con- eghany, to 94 miles- jsquehanna ;he Susque- xcltawanna, est Branch, ictends from jm the town go rivers, to g^by means river. The Franklin, at its mouth, to Meadville and Conncaut Lako : total length, 40 miles, or, with the lake, GO miles, of which 27 miles is by excavation. Appropriations have been made for continuing the Susquehan- nah branch towards the state line; for extending the West Branch division ; for continuing the canal in the western part of the state toward Erie ; and for ascertaining, by surveys, the practicability of connecting the West Branch with the Alleghany by a canal. The principal works constructed by companies are as follows : the Lackawaxen canal, extending from the mouth of that river, on the Delaware, to Honesdale, 25 miles, whence it is continued by a raiUroad to Carbondale coaUmines, 16i miles : the cost of these works was 2,000,000 dollars. The Lehigh canal starts from the termination of the Morris and Delaware canals, and goes to White Haven, 66 miles : the Mauch Chunk, Room Run, and Beaver Meadow raiUroads, connect this canal with the first and second coal basins. The Schuylkill canal connects Port Carbon with Philadelphia by a succession of pools and canals ; the whole length of the navigation is 108 miles : the cost of this work was 2,500,000 dollars. About 50 miles of raiUroad branch from this canal to various collieries. The Union canal connects the Schuylkill at Reading with the Susquehanna at Middletown, 82 miles. A lateral branch to Pine Grove, 23 miles up the Swatara, is con- nected by a. raiUroad with the coaUmines. The Susquehanna canal, from Columbia to Port Deposit, 45 miles, connects the main trunk of the Pennsylvania canal with tide-water. The Nescopeck canal, in progress, will connect the Lehigh with the North Branch of the Susquehanna. The Mahoning, or Pennsylvania and Ohio canal, connecting the Bea- ver division of the Pennsylvania works with the Ohio canal at Akron, and the Sandy and Beaver canal, connecting the same works through the valleys of the Little Beaver and Sandy rivers, are chiefly in Ohio. The principal raiUroads, exclusive of those in the coal region, are the Philadelphia and Trenton raiUroad, connecting those two cities, 26 miles; the Philadelphia and Norristown, 17 miles; the Philadelphia and Reading, 56 miles ; the Central raiUroad from Pottsville to Sunbury, 44^ miles, with a branch to Danville ; the Philadelphia and Baltimore raiUroad, 92^ miles ; the Lancaster and Harrisburg raiUroad, 37 miles; the Cumberland Valley raiUroad, from the Susquehanna opposite Harrisburg, to Cham> bersburg, 49 miles ; the Wrightsville and Gettysburg raiUroad, from Columbia, through York, to Gettysburg, 42 miles ; the Sus- 9» m INCREA8K. , ,-ni 20,000 'ne •••••• 4K Iflio'. •• 810,091 ifl20 ... 1,049.313 „, /T^hT** .. 260,000 *'''"" J5SJ n 79? ■::: . is^a-^s i763toiiy" ifiRna ISrmo ::■.:•.•. gib SI.AVW. 3,737 1,706 795 211 4U3 1830 l.'»48,233 ^^^.^^ les, lout' fie miles above "-' C^Sler It yields to none m o vessels of 300 tons, ""d « the g«a P^.^ the largest n-er- 'rrvLl^rstrSoo^: orthUa;e.ho»ses,and .s spacoas chant-vesseis i" and secure. , , ^„ . straight, crossing each o^ner m "The streets ^^e^road and trag^^^ 'K'""' oZ riaht angles, and dividing ^[^^ ^^g/" blic walks, and are ornn- Two hrWges c'o's '^ bch^^^ ^.^^ B,H,more and New afford constant and ea^y 111 if 'r\ PENNSYLVANIA. 103 York, and, with the roll-roods into the interior, render this city the grout thoroughfuro between the north and south, ond the east and west. Philadelphia includes the city proper, with Southwork, MoyS' mcnsing, and Passyunk, on the south ; and Kensington, No* ih- cm Liberties, Spring Garden, and Fenn Township, on the north ; having a population in 1700, of 42,520 ; in 1810, of 06,664 ; in 18.S0, of 167,811 ; and at present not less than 200,000. The manufactures of Philadelphia arc various and extensive : her foreign commerce is considerable : the arrivals from foreign ports in 1838 having been 464; and the value of her imports being between 10,000,000 and 12,000,000 dollars a year. Her coasting trade is increasing with extraordinary rapidity, having risen from 1247 arrivals in 1828, to 10,860 in 183S: this is chiefly owing to the anthracite coal trade, of which this city is iho great mart. Her inland commerce is also very extensive, and rapidly increasing, in consequence of the facilities afforded by the numerous canals and rail-roads that centre here, affording an easy communication with all sections of the state, and with the great western valley. There are about 500,000 barrels of flour and 5000 hogsheads of tobacco inspected, and upwards of 800,000 bushels of grain measured here annually. The shipping belonging to the port in 1838 was 81,748 tons. There are in the city 16 banks, with a capital of 51,900,000 dollars. Philadelphia is noted for the number and excellence of its benevolent institutions. Among these arc the Pennsylvania hospital, the dispensary. Wills' hospital for the lame and blind ; the institutions for the deaf and dumb, and for the blind ; the Preston Retreat, the alms-house, magdalen asylum, orphan asy- lums, Girard college for orphans, &c. The learned institutions of Philadelphia are equally distinguished : they are the American philosophical society, the academy of natural sciences, the Penn- sylvania historical society, and the Franklin institute; all of which have published some valuable volumes. The medical schools are also much frequented and highly celebrated. The city library, including the Loganian collection, consists of 45,000 volumes. There is also an academy of fine arts here. Free schools are supported at the public charge, and educate about 9500 scholars annually, at an expense of about 56,000 dollars. The principal public buildings are the United States Bank and the Pennsylvania Bank, both elegant specimens of classical architecture ; the mint, a handsome building, with Ionic porticoes 62 feet long on each front ; the exchange, 95 feet by 114, containing a spacious hall, news-room, the post-office, &c.; the Girard Bank; the Girard College, a splendid structure, 111 104 NORTH AMERICA. ' I ■ feet by 169, with a colonnade of Grecian Corinthian columns, entirely surrounding it : all of these buildings are of white tnarble. The United States' Marine Asylum, capable of accommodating 400 men, with a front of 385 feet ; the alms-house, on the west bank of the Schuylkill, consisting of four distinct buildings, with nearly 400 rooms ; the state-house, interesting from its having been the place where the declaration of independence was adopted and promulgated ; the United States' Arsenal, the Philadelphia Museum with the largest hall in the United States, &c., also de- serve mention. There are here 110 churche9 and places of public worship, inclnding two synagogues. The state peniten- tiary and the county prison are not less remarkable Ibr thrir architecture, than for their discipline. The latter, which is built of Quincy granite, has a front of 310 feet by 525 in depth. There is a navy -yard here, but ships of war of the largest class cannot ascend to the city with their armament. The inhabitants are liberally supplied with water by the Fairmount works, con- structed at an expense of 432,500 dollars ; 93 miles of iron pipe convey it to all parts of the city. The daily consumption in summer is about 4,000,000 gallons. The annual water-rents amount to 115,000 dollars, and the annual charge to 14,000. Lancaster City, Harrisburg, Reading, Easton, and Potisville, in the eastern section of the state ; Pittsburg and Beaver in the western, are among the most important towns in Pennsylvania. The city of Lancaster, 62 miles west of Philadelphia, plea- santly situated in the fertile and highly cultivated Conestoga valley, is one of the handsomest in the state : its trade is exten- sive, and the manufactures various and considerable : it is noted for the superior quality of its rifles, coaches, rail-road cars, stock- ings, saddlery, &c. The population amounts to about 10,000. Lancaster is connected with Philadelphia and Harrisburg by rail-roads, and with the Susquehannah, below Columbia, by a canal. Harrisburg, the capital of the state, stands on the left bank of the Susquehanna. The state-house is a neat and commodious building, from the cupola of which is one of the finest panoramic views in the United States. Here are also a court-house and a number of churches. Population 5000. Beyond the Susque- hanna are the thriving towns of Carlisle and Chambersburg ; the former containing 4000, and the latter 3000 inhabitants. Carlisle is the seat of Pickinson College. Reading, about 50 miles north-west from Philadelphia, is a prosperous town on the left bank of the Schuylkill, and at the termination of the Union canal. The town is regularly built, and was originally settled by Germans: several newspapers are PENNSYLVANIA. 105 of IS a still printed in that language, though English is generally under- stood. Population, 5850. Easton, at the confluence of the Lehigh and the Delaware, and the termination of the Morris canal, is one of the most flourishing inland towns in the state. In its immediate neighbourhood are numerous flour-mills, oil-mills, saw-mills, &c. The situation is highly picturesque, and it contains five churches, a manual labour collegiate institution, a library with a mineralogical cabinet, &c. The population is about 5000. Pottsville is situated in a wild district on the Schuylkill, in the midst of the coal region. It contains many handsome dwellings, and its population, which in 1825 did not exceed 300, amounts at present to 4000. Mauch Chunk, first settled in 1821, is also built on very broken ground; but, in addition to the coal trade, it enjoys the advantage of an extensive water-power, which is used for manufacturing pur- poses : and its population at present exceeds 2000. Wilkesbarre stands in the delightful valley of Wyoming, whose rural beauty, and peaceful shades, onc3 stained with blood and desolated with fire, have been consecrated by the deathless muse. Population, 3000. Pittsburg, the principal city of Western Pennsylvania, is built at the junction of the Monongahela and the Alleghany. The city proper includes only the tract between the rivers ; but, as the towns of Birmingham, Alleghanytown, &c., really form a part of Pittsburg, they must properly be included in its descrip- tion. Perhaps its site is unrivalled in the world, commanding a navigation of about 50,000 miles, which gives it access to one of the most fertile regions on the face of the globe, surrounded by inexhaustible beds of the most useful minerals. Connected by artificial works with the three principal cities of the Atlantic border on one side, and by others not less extensive with those great inland seas that already bear on their bosoms the trade of industrious millions, Pittsburg is doubtless destined to become one of the most important centres of population, in- dustry, and wealth, in the United States. The population of the place in 1800 was about 1600; in 1820, 10,000; in 1830, 18,000, of which the city proper comprised 12,568 ; and is now probably more than four times that amount. There are here 20 large founderies and engine factories, with numerous small works: rolling-mills, cotton establishments, white lead factories, breweries, saw and grist-mills, glass works, with brass founderies, steel manufactories, tanneries, salt works, paper- mills, manufactories of cutlery and agricultural implements, &c., are among the 374 manufacturing establishments of Pittsburg. The annual business of this place is estimated at 32 million I'i f, r ij. i ■ lOtf NORTH AMERICA. hi': dollars. The city is regularly built, but the clouds of smoke in which it is constantly enveloped, give it rather a dingy appear- ance. Among the public establishments here, are the Alleghany arsenal, belonging to the United States, the western penitentiary of the state, the western university, a Presbyterian and a Re- formed theological seminary, 30 churches and places of worship, 60 common and 12 select schools, &c. A steam-engine supplies the city with 1,500,000 gallons of water daily. In the district to the south of Pittsburg, Washington, Browns- ville, and Union, are thriving towns. Canonsburg is the seat of Jefferson college. Below Pittsburg, Beaver, at the mouth of the river of the same name, is a thriving town, which is indebted for its prosperity to the great water-power afforded by the falls of that stream. Numerous niills and manufacturing establishments have re- cently been erected on both sides of the river above the village, and the whole popnl ifion of the neighbourhood is about 5000. The completion of the connecting links between the Ohio and Pennsylvania canals, will give a great impulse to the trade of this place. Erie, on the lake of the same name, is important on account of its harbour, which is protected by several piers. This place is increasing rapidly, and bids fair to become of considerable commercial importance. ■H' Jl- ■I STATE OF DELAWARE. The boundaries of this state are, — on the north Pennsylvania, on the south Maryland, on the east Delaware Bay and the At- lantic Ocean, and on the west Pennsylvania and Maryland. The extent from north to south is 90 miles ; from east to west 25 miles ; area in square miles 2100. The principal streams, besides the Delaware, which forms a part of its boundary, are Brandywine creek, Christiana creek. Duck creek, Mispillion creek ; and Indian, Choptank, and Nanticoke rivers. The gene- ral aspect of Delawaro is that of an extended plain, mostly fa- vourable for cultivation. The upper part of the state is generally a fine tract of country, and well adapted to the growing of wheat and other grains. The staple commodity, however, is wheat, which is produced of a su- perior quality. Brandywine creek, in the upper part of the state, furnishes water-power for great and growing manufacturing es- tablishments. The chief articles are flour, cottons, woollens, paper, and gunpowder. x:l DELAWARE. 107 This state has a school-fund c" 11170,000. There are acade- mies at Wilmington, New Cj;..* .Newark, Smyrna, Dover, Mil- ford, Lewistown, and Georgeto li. Schools are established in every district of four miles square. No district is entitled to any share of the fund that will not raise by taxation a sum equal to its share of the income of the fund. The foreign commerce of Delaware is inconsiderable, but an active coasting-trade is carried on. The Delaware and Chesapeake canal is a highly important work, from its connecting those two great estuaries by a channel navigable by sea-vessels ; it is nearly 14 miles in length, and was constructed at an expense of 2,200,000 dollars. Here is also a rail-road extending across the state from New Castle on the Delaware, to Frenchtown on Elk river, 16i miles long; and the Philadelphia and Baltimore rail-road, 92^ miles long, is one of the most important works of that kind in the Union. POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. In 1790 59,094 1800 64,273 1810 72,674 1820 72,749 1830 76,748 INCREASE. From 1790 to 1800 5179 1800 to 1810 8401 1810 to 1820 75 1820 to 1830 3999 . 8887 . 6153 . 4177 . 4509 . 3292 Of the above population of 1830, there were, white males, 28,845 ; white females, 28,756 ; deaf and dumb, 35 ; blind, 18 ; aliens, 313. Total whites, 57,601. Free coloured males, 7882; females, 7973. Total, 15,855. Slaves — males, 1806; females, 1486. Total, 3292. The city of Wilmington, pleasantly situated near the junction of the Brandywine and Christiana, is a well-built, growing town, and the most important in the state. It contains an arsenal, hospital, 13 churches, &c., and is well supplied with water by works on the Brandywine. Its trade is extensive, and it sends several ships to the whale-fishery. In the immediate vicinity there are about 100 mills and manufactories, producing flour, paper, iron-ware, powder, and cotton and woollen goods; the Brandywine flour-mills are among the most extensive in the United States. The population, which in 1830 was 6628, is now about 10,000. New Castle is a small but early settled town, and was once the capital of the state. Dover, the seat of government, contains the state-house, and about 1500 inhabitants. Lewistown is a village near Cape Henlopen, in front of which has been erected the Delaware Breakwater. The work consists of two piers, an ice-breaker 1500 feet in length, and a breakwater 3600 feel long, not yet fully completed ; estimated cost, 2,216,950 dollars. v.; I 1U8 NUliTIl AMERICA. 4 n . ., •H,:f n' '; i 1 i" 1 ! SOUTHERN STATES. The States of Maryland, Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Florida Territory, Alabama, Mississippi, and Lousiana, are those usually termed the Southern States: the whole region extends from the Susquehanna to the Sabine river : its coasts are washed by the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico : area 430,000 square miles, with a population estimated to amount at present to 5,000,000. The tract of country in the Southern States bordering on the Atlantic, is a low sandy plain, from 50 to 100 miles broad, and, in general, covered with pine forests. Beyond this, towards the Alleghanies, it becomes elevated and hilly, and then mountainous. Those portions of Alabama, Mississippi, and Louisiana, which border on the Gulf of Mexico, are low and level. In the interior they are diversified, and in some parts mountainous. The low countries in all the Southern States are mostly barren, except on the borders of rivers, where the soil is very fertile. The inhabitants of the Southern States are nearly all occupied with agriculture. The commerce, which is extensive, is princi- pally in the hands of foreigners, or of their northern countrymen, and carried on in northern vessels. The great staples of this region are cotton, rice, sugar, and tobacco : nearly the whole of the cotton crop of the United States is raised here, which, with rice and sugar, is confined to its southern section : in the north- ern, the principal productions are tobacco, wheat, and corn ; in the low regions of the Carolinas, pitch-pine grows in great per- fection ; and tar, pitch, turpentine, and lumber, are the staples of these districts. Gold is almost exclusively confined to the upper and middle portions of this region, and is now so exten- sively found as to have become an object of national importance. The population is chiefly of English descent, but is in some places somewhat mixed. There are many descendants of the French and Spanish, particularly in Louisiana and Florida. In Louisiana the French language is extensively spoken, and the laws and some of the newspapers are printed both in that tongue and in English. The negroes, who form about two-fifths of the population, con- stitute a separate class, and are, with the exception of the free blacks, all held in slavery. The Indians, once numerous, have nearly all removed to the territory assigned for their residence by Congress, west of the Mississippi river. A few Seminole In- dians, however, still remain in the southern parts of Florida. The inhabitants of the Southern States are seldom collected ■■"■ :"»■ ■«,,!, I , 1 1 i ■■■iii.ii.:i MARYLAND. 109 together in villages and towns, like their northern countrymen, but live in a scattered manner over the country. This is in a measure owing to the predominance of agriculture over commer- cial and mechanical occupations, but principally to the circum- stance that the bulk of the labour is performed by slaves. Instead of small proprietors, tilling their little farms with their own hands, we here find extensive plantations cultivated under the direction of the owner or his agent, who merely attends to the pecuniary affairs, directs the operations and oversees the labourers. This state of things has a decided influence upon the manners and character of the people, yet there are individual differences so great that no general description will apply equally to the Virginian, the Carolinian, and the Louisianian. Generosity, great hospitality, a high sense of honour, and a manly independence of thought and conduct, are among the favourable traits of the southern character. The poorer class of whites are in general less frugal and industrious, and enjoy fewer advantages in respect to education and religious instruction, than the same class in the Northern States. Although a few of the southern cities have attained a respecta- ble magnitude, they have not as yet secured that commercial preponderance which distinguishes the great marts of the North- ern and Middle States. The rivers of the Southern States, south of Chesapeake Bay, are generally distinguished by sluggish currents, and sand-bars at their mouths. Although there is no stream, exclusively be- longing to this section of the Union, that can be ranked in poiiit of extent with the great rivers of the country, there are several which, from the length of their course and the volume of water which they afford, would in other countries be considered as large streams ; and there are not a few which furnish useful navigable channels. The population of the Southern States in 1830 was 4,230,891 ; of whom 1,605,700 were slaves. 151 im STATE OF MARYLAND. Maryland is bounded north by Pennsylvania and Delaware ; east by Delaware and the Atlantic ; south-west and west by Vir- ginia. Length 196 miles, and 120 miles in breadth; area in square miles 10,950, in acres 7,008,000. The principal rivers are the Potomac, which divides it from Virginia ; the Susque- hanna, Patapsco, Pawtuxent, Elk, Sassafras, Chester, Choptank, Nanticoke, and Pocomoke. 10

oth of the bituminous ami anthracite kinds; of the forinor, great beds have been found spreading over an extent of many milen. The mineral has Imjch mined and exported in (ronsidcrablo quantities from the vicinity of Richmond, lor many years past. Iron ore exists also in vast quantities, in various parts ; in some places it is found between immense layers of coal. Salt springs occur at various places; at some of which works for manufacturing the water into salt have been erected : the most important are on tlio Great Kanawha river, in the vicinity of Charleston. The quantity made here is about .3,000,000 bushels annually. Virginia contains u profusion of mineral springs, of great and various virtues, many of which have ac* quired much reputation ibr their medicinal properties, and some of them are much resorted to. The state has a fund for internal improvement amounting to nearly 3,000,000 dollars, the income of which, exceeding 280,000 dollars, is applied, under the direction of a board of public works, to aid in useful undertakings for facilitating the intercommuni> cation between diflcrent parts of the state. The Dismal Swomp canal unites Deep creek with Joyce's creek, and thus connects Chesapeake Bay with Albemarle Sound. But the greatest work undertaken in this state is the James and Kanawha communicu- tion, which comprises cunals and dams for the improvenunt of James river above Richmond, n canal connecting its head waters with the New river, and the improvement of the navigation of that river and the Kanawha to Charleston. Tlio portion of the work between Richmond and Lynchburg is in un advanced atate, and the continuation above that point is also ui progress. Several important rail-roads have been constructed. The Pe- tersburg and Roanoke raiUroad extends from Petersburg to Blakely on the Roanoke, 60 miles. A continuation of this work to Richmond, 22 miles, and the Richmond and Potomac rail-road, from Richmond through Fredericksburg to the Potomac, 75 miles, completes the connection between the Potomac and Roanoke. The Winchester rail-road extends from Winchester to Harper's Ferry, 30 miles, and is there connected with the Baltimore and Ohio rail-road. The Portsmouth and Roanoke rail-road extends from Portsmouth, opposite Norfolk, to Weldi>n, on the Roanoke, 80 miles. The literary fund belonging to the state amounts to 1,551,857 dollars, and the revenue fror.i the same to 78,.340 dollars. In 1817, a permanent jpp-opriation was made of 45,000 dollars a year for the instruction of poor children, to be distributed among the several counHps uik^ tnv»^g in proportion to their white popu- ^.■.: VllUilNiA. 117 lation. Thcro aro numerous grammnr-soliools nnd ncndcmuis in tho state, nnd in many families the cliildrm uro instruct«-d by domestic tutors. The collcgf r William and Mary, ut VVilliamsl>urg, is tho oldest ill the Liiitcd States after Harvard college; it nns char- fried in 1691. Tho University of Virpinin, osu. ^lishod m Lhflr. iollv;.4villo, is, however, tho most importnnl institute i the stutr ; the university went into operation in 1825, lUiil it receives 1/),0(K) dollars a year from the state; tho library consJMts of 10,50(1 volumes. Washington college at Lexington, Uamjjden-Hidney college in Prince Edward county, and Uandolph-Macon coll' i;o in Mecklenburg, are rtispectablo mstitutions. The theoloL'i .ill ,. 'hools are, an Episcopal Seminary in Fairfax county, the iJnion J'-minary founded by the Presbyterians in Prince IMwat'o cou. ty, and tho Virginia Baptist Seminary near Richnjojtl. 'I'he predominant religious sects are Baptists, Metho- dis!'., Presbytorians, and Episcopalians. Tho Lutherans and I! -l(>i-uied Baptiuts are also numerous, and there arc some Roman Catholics, Friends, and Tunkers. POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. In 1643,20,000; in 1660, 30,000; in 1703, 60,fiOG, m 1749, 85,000; in 1763, 170,000; viz. about 70,000 wiiitcH, and 100,000 ncgiocs. INCURA8E. 8LAVR8. INCRRA8E. In 1790 .... 747,610 21)2,627 1800 .... 880,200 From 1790 to 1800 . . .132..'>90 346,968 54,341 1810.... 974,622 1800 to 1810 ... 94,422 .392,518 45,550 1820 .... 1,065,366 1810 to 1820 . . . 90,744 425,153 32,635 1830 .... 1,21 1,405 1820 to 1830 . . . 146,039 469,724 44,571 Of the above population there were, white mules, 347,887 ; white females, 340,383; deaf and dumb, 422 ; blind, 230 ; aliens, r>18. Total whites, 694,270. Free coloured, 47,348 ; slaves, 4(59,757 ; coloured deaf and dumb, 132 ; blind, 445; Total co- loured, 517,105. Richmond, the capital of the state, stands on James river up- on several eminences, which command fine views of the sur- rounding country, and give to the city an nir of singular beauty. The western division occupies a high plain called Shockoe Hill, overlooking the lower town, and containing a beautiful square of .nbout ten a^res, which is idorncd with fine shade trees, and laid >,ut in gravelled walks; here, in a commanding situation, stands the capitol or state-house, one of the most elegant structures in the United States, containing a statue of Washington by Houdon ; and contiguous to it '\h the eity hall, a neat edifice of the J3oric order. The other puLuc bn dings are the armoury, penitentiary, 16 churches, a theatre, A^e. 'j'he city is supplied with pure !■ 1. Tr^ 118 NORTH AMERICA. [i ' 'n-i s water from three reservoirs, each containing 1,000,000 gallons, and filled by two pumps, which raise at the rate of 800,000 gal- lons in the 24 hours. Richmond is 110 miles from the mouth of the river, which car- ries 14 feet of water till within a few miles of the city, and affords boat navigation for 220 miles above the falls. These advantages enable it to carry on an extensive trade, both inland and by sea ; the annual value of the exports being about 3,000,000 dollars, in addition to a valuable coasting trade. Large quantities of wheat, flour, tobacco, &c., are brought down by the James River canal. The falls of the river, immediately above the city, afford an unlimited water-power, which is largely applied to manufacturing purposes ; there are here, and in the village of Manchester, oppo- site to Richmond, four large flour-mills, grinding annually about 700,000 bushels of wheat ; four cotton-mills, tobacco manufac- tories, a cannon foundery, two rolling and slitting-mills, paper- mills, &c. The population in 1830 was 16,060; at present, including that of Manchester, which is connected with it by a bridge, it exceeds 20,000. A rail-road extends from Manchester to the coal-mines, on the same side of the river, 13 miles, which yield at present above 50,000 tons of coal annually. The principal sea-port of this state is Norfolk, which is situ- ated on the Elizabeth river, eight miles from Hampton Roads. Its harbour is deep and capacious, easy of access, and perfectly secure. The favourable situation of this place, in regard to the sea, and its connection with the interior by means of the Dismal iSvvamp canal and the Portsmouth and Roanoke rail-road, have made it the chief commercial dep6t of Virginia. The principal public buildings are eight churches, a marine hospital, a theatre, lyceum, &;c. Population, 10,000. At Gosport, in Portsmouth, on the opposite side of the river, is one of the most important navy-yards of the United States, containing a magnificent dry- dock, of liewn granite. Population of Portsmouth, 2000. Petersburg, on the right bank of the Appomattox river, is a handsome and flourishing town, with 10,000 inhabitants, com- bining an active trade in cotton, flour, and- tobacco, with manu- facturing industry. Vessels drawing seven fret of water come up to the town, but large ships unload at City Point, at the mouth of the river. The lalls of the Appomattox furnish ample water- power, and there are here several cotton-mills, merchant flour- mills, a brass and iron foundery, tanneries, cotton-seed oil-mills, &c. North-west from Richmond, and on the Rivanna river, is Charlottesville, with about 1000 inhabitants. It is pleasantly situated in a charming valley, and derives its interest from its .>}>><■.>'• VIRGINIA. 11» ons, cav- brds ages sea; rs, in heat, ;anal. rd an uring oppo- about nufac- paper- resent, by a hester which IS situ- Roads. ^rfectly i to the Dismal ,d, havo rincipal theatre, smouth, nportant ?nt dry- ). ver, is ^ its, com- ;h manu- ter como he mouth do vvater- jut floiu-- oil-millis, river, is pleasantly t from its beinf? the seat of Virginia University. The halls of this highly respectable and valuable institution form a fine collection of build- ings. Three miles from Charlottesville is Monticello, the seat of the late President Jefferson. A simple granite obelisk over the grave of Jefferson bears this inscription, written by himself: Thomas Jefferson, Author of the Declaration of Independence, and Founder of the University of Virginia. Nearly west from Richmond, and liiO miles distant, is Lynch- burg, situated on the southern bank of James river, which is here bold and broken. It is a neat and flourishing town, carrying on an active trade, and containing some manufactories. Lynchburg is one of the largest tobacco markets in the United States, from 10,000 to 16,000 hogsheads having been inspected here annually during the last ten years. Population, 5000. At the junction of the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers, stands the town of Harper's Ferry, celebrated for the majestic scenery in its vicinity : it has a population of about 2000 inhabitants, and contains three churches, two academies, several large flour and saw-mills, an, arsenal of the United States, containing abou 80,000 stands of arms, and an armoury for the manufacture ol fire-arms. A rail-road extends from this place to AVinchester, one of the most flourishing towns in the state, with about 4000 inhabitants. It stands on the site of old Fort Loudon, in the midst of a very rich and highly-cultivated tract, inhabited by an industrious and thriving population. Winchester is the dep6t of the surrounding country, and its trade and manufactures are extensive. Fredericksburg is a flourishing town at the head of navigation on the Rappahannock river, which admits vessels of 140 tons up to the town. Its situation makes it the dep6t of a well-cultivated tract, and its trade is considerable. Tobacco, wheat, flour, maize, gold, &c., are the principal articles of exportation. Popu- lation, 4000. In Westmoreland county on the Potomac, is shown the spot where Washington was born ; the house, which stood on Pope's creek, about half a mile from the river, on a plantation called Wakefield, is now in ruins. A simple stone, with the inscription, Here, on the 11th of February, 1732, George Washington was born, designates the consecrated spot. Further up the river, eight miles from Alexandria, is Mount Vernon, the seat and the tomb of that great and good man. The mansion house is a simple wooden building, two stories high, with a plain portico, extending the whole length, and command- ing a view of the river : here repose his mortal remains, which '■■\ r-io iNUitTU AiMEIilCA. have recently been deposited within a beautiful sarcophagus, the offering of private munificence. In the western part of the state is the city of Wheeling, sur- rounded by rich coal-beds and a highly fertile country; and, standing at the head of steam-boat navigation on the Ohio during the season of low water, is one of the most flourishing trading towns in the country. The population increased from 1567 in 1820, to 5222 in 1830, and is at present about 11,000. Iron- founderies, steam-engine factories, cotton and woollen-mills, glass- houses and cut-glass works, an extensive rolling and slitting-mill and nail-factory, steam flour-mills, paper-mills ; copperas, white- lead, and sheet-lead manufactories ; tobacco-manufactories, tan- neries, smitheries, &c., are among the manufactui'ing establish- ments of this place. STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. North Carolina is bounded on the north by Virginia, east by the Atlantic Ocean, south by South Carolina, and west by Tennessee. Length 362 miles, and breadth 121 miles ; area, 50,000 square miles. The country, for more than 60 miles from the coast, is a low plain, with many swamps and inlets from the sea. The greater portion of this district, except along the water- courses, is a vast forest of evergreens. The rich lands near the swamps and rivers are insalubrious. Having i>assed this monotonous region, we emerge to the pleasant and mild parts of the state, at the base of the Alleghanies, from whose summits the eye traverses an immense extent of beautiful country to the west. In the western part of the state, the Blue Ridge, which forms the separating line between the waters of the Atlantic and the Mississippi, attains an elevation of about 5500 ket. The west- ern boundary of the state is formed by the prolongation of the same ridge ; its different parts are known by various local names, one of which, the Black Mountain, has been recently ascertained to be the most lofty in the United States, east of the Rocky Mountains ; its height is 6476 feet, or 48 feet more elevated than Mount Washington, in New Hampshire. North Carolina abounds in considerable rivers, but enjoys few facilities for navigation in proportion to the number and size of the streams, which arc shallow or broken in their course, or lose themselves in lagoons difficult of access, or are obstructed by bars. The Chowan and Roanoke flow into Albemarle Sound, '^! NORTH CAROLINA. 121 uid the Tar river and Neuse into Pamlico Sound. The Cape Fear river is the principal stream, which has its whole course within the state. The Waccamaw, the Lumber, and Yadkin, which take the names of the Little and Great Pedee, and the Catawba, which rises in the Blue Ridge, all flow into South Carolina; while the French -Broad, Little Tennessee, Hiwassee, and New river, descend in an opposite direction from the same mountain. The pine forests of North Carolina, which cover nearly the whole of the eastern part of the state, yield not only much lum- ber for exportation, but also nearly all the resinous matter used in ship'building in this country. The products are turpentine, spirits of turpentine, rosin, tar, and pitch. Among the mineral productions, the most important appear to be gold and iron. The gold region of North Carolina embraces the section on both sides of the Blue Ridge, and extends to the east of the Yadkin. In almost any part of this district gold may be found in greater or less abundance mixed with the soil. It exists in grains or masses from almost imperceptible particles, to pieces of one or two pounds weight ; one of the largest lumps ever found was dug up in Cabarrus county — it was worth be- tween 7000 and 8000 dollars. Lumps from the value of 100 or 200 to 1000 dollars, are not uncommon. The great diversity of climate between the eastern lowlands and the western high country produces a corresponding diversity in the agricultural productions of the two sections ; while the former yields cotton, rice, and indigo, the more northern grains and fruits thrive in the latter, which yields wheat, Indian>corn, tobacco, and hemp. The cotton crop of North Carolina is about 30,000 bales. Manufactures can hardly be said to exist, except in the shape of household industry ; and the dangers of the coast, together with the want of good harbours, cause the trade of North Caro- lina to pass chiefly through Virginia, South Carolina, Greorgia, and Tennessee. The works of internal improvement are yet few in number in North Carolina. The Dismal Swamp canal is partly, and its branch, the North-west canal, wholly, in this state. Of rail-roads, the Portsmouth and Roanoke, the Petersburg and Roanoke, and Greensville rail-roads, though partly in North Carolina, are in reality Virginia improvements. Two considerable works of that kind are now, however, in progress here : these are the Wilmington and Raleigh, and the Gaston and Raleigh rail-roads ; the first extends from Weldon, on the Roanoke, to Wilmington, 161 miles ; and the other from Gas- 11 w'1 iv\i 122 NORTH AMERICA. f " ■ ton, on the same river, to the capital, 86 miles. They are both rapidly hastening to a completion. The University of North Carolina, at Chapel Hill, about 30 miles from Raleigh, is the principal educational institution in the state ; there is a pretty large number of academies, but no sys- tem of general education has been adopted. The Methodists and Baptists are the most numerous religious sects, and there are also a good many Presbyterians and Episcopalians, with some Luther- ans, Moravians, Friends, and Roman Catholics. POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. Ill 1701, 5,000 ; in 1749, 45,000 ; in 1763, 95,000. INCREASE. SLAVES. In 1790 393,951 100,571 1800 478,103 From 1790 to 1800 84,152 133,296 1810 555,500 1800 to 1810 77,397 168,824 1820 638,829 1810 to 1820 83,329 1830 737,987 205,017 1820 to 1830 98,162 245,601 INCREASE. 33,275 35,528 36,193 40,584 Of the above population of 1830, there were, white males, 235,954 ; white females, 236,889 ; of which are, deaf and dumb, 230; blind, 223; aliens, 206. Total, whites, 472,843. — Free coloured males, 9,561 ; females, 9,982 : total, 19,543. Slaves —males, 124,31.3; females, 121,288: total, 245,601. Raleigh, the capital of the state, not far from the west bank of the Neuse, is a thriving town with 2000 inhabitants. A fine state-house of granite is now erected here, in place of the one destroyed by fire in 1831, when Canova's statue of Washington was unfortunately ruined. Fayetteville is a busy and flourish- ing town at the head of boat navigation on the Cape Fear river, with 3000 inhabitants. It contains an United States' armoury, and has recently engaged with activity in manufacturing cotton goods. Salem, Salisbury, and Charlotte, are small towns in this section. The last mentioned has of late rapidly increased in population and importance, on account of its proximity to the gold mines, and lias at present 2000 inhabitants. A mint for the coinage of gold has been erected here. Beaufort, the only port of North Carolina directly upon the sea, admits vessels drawing 12 feet of water, and the harbour is safe and commodious ; but the town is inconsiderable. Wilming- ton, 30 miles from the sea, on Cape Fear river, is the most im- portant commercial town of the state, and it carries on a con- siderable trade with the West Indies. The population is about 3000. Newbern, on the south bank of the river Neuse, 50 miles from Pamlico Sound, is a place of some commerce, although large vessels cannot come up to the town, and the navigation is i , SOUTH CAROLINA. 123 )oth 30 the sys- and also ither- ;rkase. 3^75 5,528 16,193 0,584 males, dumb, —Free Slaves 3t bank A fine the one ihington flourish- ar river, rmoury, rr cotton ^ • owns m ncreased ty to the mint for upon the arbour is Wilming- most im- ►n a con- i is about , 50 miles although igation is tedious and difficult for smaller craft. Newbern is pleasantly situated and well built, and, with a population of 4000 souls, is the principal town in the state. Washington and Tarboro' on the Pamlico river, Plymouth and Halifax on the Roanoke, Eden- ton on the Chowan, and Elizabeth on the Pasquotank, are small trading towns. SI ATE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. The State of South Carolina is bounded on the north and north-east by North Carolina, south-east by the Atlantic Ocean, and south-west by Georgia, from which it is separated by the Savannah river: it is in length 188 miles, by 160 in breadth, the area being about 33,000 square miles. The rivers of South Carolina afford some considerable navi- gable facilities for small river craft ; but in the lower part of their course they are shallow, and obstructed by bars. The principal are the Waccamaw, Pedee, Black river, Santee, Stono, Edisto, Combahee, Coosaw, Broad, and Savannah. The sea-coast is bordered with a fine chain of islands, between which and the shore there is a very convenient navigation. The main land is by nature divided into the lower and upper country. The low country extends 80 or 100 miles from the coast, and is covered with extensive forests of pitch-pine, called pine barrens, interspersed with swamps and marshes of a rich soil : beyond this is the sand-hill region, 60 miles in width, the sterile hills of which have been compared to the arrested waves of the sea in a storm. To this distance the broad extent of country is denominated the lower country ; beyond it we approach the ridge or upper country, the Atlantic ascent of which is precipitous. From the summit stretches a fine belt of table-land, fertile and well culti- vated, watered by rivers, and irrigated by smaller streams, extending from the Savannah to Broad river. The country beyond the ridge resembles in its scenery the most interesting of the northern states. A number of mountains of striking forms, here swell with their peaks to a very considerable elevation. Table Mountain is the most conspicuous ; its summit is supposed to be 4000 feet above the level of the sea. The low country is infested with many of the diseases which spring from a warm, moist, and unelastic atmosphere. Of these, the most frequent are fevers, from which the inhabitants suffer more than from any, or perhaps from all other diseases together. H^i ■\'! ■" #■■:«• 126 NORTH AMERICA. Hl|l*^■:i II ilL "fK, planters from the low country, and many opulent West Indians, spend the summer here. Its commerce is extensive, com* prising nearly the whole of that of the state. The population increased from 18,711 in 1800, to 30,289 in 1830, of which number 12,928 were whites; including the Neck, which is adorned with numerous plantations in a high state of cultivation, the population may be stated to exceed 40,000 souls. Charleston suffered severely from an extensive fire which took place April 27th, 1838, when 1158 buildings of various kinds and much property was destroyed ; — total amount, net 4,000,000 dollars. A number of persons also lost their lives. The approach to the city is defended by Fort Moultrie, on Sullivan's Island, at the mouth of the harbour, and by Castle Pinckney opposite the extreme point of the city within. Columbia, the capital of the state, is pleasantly situated on the Congaree, below the junction of the Saluda and Broad rivers. It is regularly laid out with very wide streets, and is a neatly built town, with 4000 inhabitants. It contains a handsome state- house, a lunatic asylum, the halls of South Carolina college, and several churches. Camden is a place of some trade, situated on a rising ground on the Wateree : in its neighbourhood two im- portant battles were fought during the revolutionary war. Georgetown, to the north on Winyaw Bay, being the depdt of an extensive and well-cultivated district, has considerable trade, but is not accessible to vessels drawing more than 11 feet of water. It is, however, unhealthy, and during the autumn many of the inhabitants resort to North Island at the mouth of the bay. Cheraw is a small trading town on the Pedee, near the North Carolina line. Orangeburg, Hamburg, Yorkville, and Greenville, are the chief towns in the interior of the state. Hamburg derives its importance from its being the inland terminus of the rail-road from Charleston to the Savannah river. STATE OF GEORGIA. Georgia is bounded north by Tennessee and North Carolina, north-east by South Carolina, and south-east by the Atlantic Ocean, south by Florida, and west by Alabama. Length, 300 miles ; breadth, 200 ; area, 62,000 square miles. The principal rivers of Georgia are the Savannah, (which forms the boundary between it and South Carolina,) Alatamaha, Ogeechee, Satilla, Ockmulgee, Oconee, St. Mary's, Flint, Chattahoochee, Talla- poosa, and Coosa. The coast of Georgia, for four or five miles . '•• '■, GEORGIA. 127 ins, om- ition hich h is tion, took dnds ),000 roach ad, at ;e the )n the rivers, neatly state- ;e, and itedon vo im- Bp6t of trade, feet of 1 many he bay. 3 North are the fives its rail-road Carolina, Atlantic igth, 300 principal boundary e, Satilla, ie, Talla- five miles inland, is a salt marsh, mostly uninhabited. In front of this, towards the sea, there is a chain of islands of a grey, rich soil, yielding on cultivation the finest quality of sea-island cotton. The principal are Wdssaw, Ossabaw, St. Catherine, Sapelo, St. Simon's, Jekyl, and Cumberland. Beyond the swamps which line the coast, commences that extensive range of pine-barrens closely resembling those of South Carolina ; above this range the country begins to be pleasantly diversified by gentle undulations. This region is bounded on the west by the Blue Ridge, which here swells into elevations 1500 feet in height, which thence subside, and are lost in the sea. Beyond the mountains is an extensive and rich tp 'e-country, with a black soil of great fer- tility. There are districts in this state that approach nearer to tropi- cal temperature than any part of South Carolina, and better adapted to the sugar-cane, olive, and sweet orange. The hilly and western parts are as healthy as any in America. As an average of the temperature, winter may be said to commence in the middle of December, and terminate in the middle of February. The climate of the low country compares very nearly with that of Louisiana. The mineral resources of Georgia are very imperfectly known ; copper and iron have been found, but the most valuable mineral production, hitherto, has been gold. Although first found here but a few years ago, a large quantity has already been procured, chiefly from deposits, and scarcely any attempts have been made to carry on systematic mining operations. The gold occurs in the northern part of the state, on both sides of Chattahoochee as far north as the Blue Ridge, and to a considerable, but not well- ascertained distance on the south. The great agricultural staples of Georgia are cotton and rice ; the cotton crop of the year 1835 was estimated at 300,000 bales; the export of rice for the same year amounted to about 25,000 casks. The oiher exports are tar, pitch, turpentine, and lumber the products of the pine forests. Georgia has applied herself with great energy to improving her means of communication. The following works are now in progress : — 1 . The Central rail-road, from Savannah to Macon, 200 miles in length ; 2. The Monroe rail-road, from Macon to Forsyth, 25 miles ; 3. Western and Atlantic rail-road, from a point in De Kalb county, eight miles east of the Chattahoochee river, to Ross's Landing on the Tennessee river ; 4. The Georgia rail-road, from Augusta through Madison to Decatur, 160 miles. It is contemplated also to construct a rail-road from Macon to Columbus, and thence to West Point in Troup county, on the ••!> '3 mfim 1 * \f ■ 11^6 NORTH AMERICA. I4|l|: Chattahoochee river; and one to connect the Ockmulgcc and Flint rivers. The Brunswick canal extends from tide-water on the Alatamaha, to the town of Brunswick, a distance of 12 nniles. The state has an academic fund, the proceeds of which are distributed annually among the academies ; the sum thus divided in 1834 was 18,710 dollars, and there is a considerable number of respectable academies. There is also a poor school fund, the income of which is divided among the counties, according to their respective population, but no general system of common educa- tion has been established : 18,078 dollars were distributed for the instruction of the poor in 1834. There is a college at Athens, styled vhe University of Georgia. The Baptists and Methodists are numerous, and the Episcopalians, Presbyterians, and Chris- tians, number many adherents. There are also some Roman Catholics, Friends, Lutherans, &c. POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. 1749.... 6,000 INCREASE. SLAVEa. INCREASE 1790 82,548 29.264 1800.... 162,686 From 1790 to 1800. . . . 80,138 59,699 30,435 1810.... 252,433 1800 to 1810.... 89,747 105,218 4.5,519 1820.... 348,989 1810 to 1820.... 88,456 149,656 44,438 1830.... 516,823 1820 to 1830.... 167,834 217,470 67,814 Of the above population of 1830, there were, white males, 153,236 ; white females, 143,378 ; deaf and dumb, 147 ; blind, 143 : aliens, 86. Total whites, 296,614. Free coloured milns, 1256 ; females, 1227. Total, 2483. Slaves— males, 108,946 ; females, 108,524. Total, 217,470. The city of Savannah is built on the southern side of the river of the same name, on a high bank, rising about 50 feet above the water, from which it makes a fine appearance. In 1820 it suf- fered so much from a terrible fire, that its prosperity received a temporary check ; but it has recovered from this shock, and is at present one of the most flourishing cities in the southern states, its population having increased to 12,000. Savannah is the chief commercial dep6t in the state, and most of the cotton and rice, with large quantities of the other articles of exportation, pass through this port. The exports amount to 14,000,000 dollars : 20 steam-boats of a large class, and 50 steam tow-boats are employed on the river. Among the public build- ings are 10 churches, an exchange, city -hall, hospital, theatre, &c. The city of Augusta, the great interior emporium of the state, stands on the Savannah river, at the head of steam-boat naviga- tion. It is handsomely built, and contains a city-hall, seven churches, an hospital, arsenal, theatre, &c. ; a bridge across the Savannah river, 1200 feet Ions;, connects it with Hamburg. The : I FLORIDA. ISO and QT on niles. arc vided imbor d, the their ;duca- or the thens, lodists Chris- loman SCREASK. 30,435 45,519 44,438 67,814 males, ; blind, i mil^s, 08,946 ; the river ibove the it suf- ceived a and is at n states, and most r articles mount to 50 steam lie build- jatre, &c. the state, it naviga- all, seven across the irg. The population amounted in 1880 to 6695, but haft Inoreasod to 8000. Augusta is the dep6t of an extensive tract of productive nnd populous country, and is connected with the sea by the Charles- ton and Hamburg rail-road, ond the Savannah river. Milledgeville, the capital of the state, is pleasantly situated on the Oconee river, at the head of steam-boat navigation, and is a place of some trade ; the population exceeds 2000. It contains a state-house, the penitentiary, on the Auburn plan, &c. Athens, a thriving little town above Milledgeville, is the seat of the Uni- versity of Georgia. Macon, on the Ocmulgee river, consisted in 1823 of a single cabin ; in 1830 it had a population of 2600 souls, and at present the number of inhabitants is 4000. Its trade is extensive and growing, and there is a great number of saw and grist-mills in the vicinity. Great quantities of cotton are shipped from this place, and several steam-boats, beside numerous tow-boats and pole-boats, are employed on the Ocmulgee. Columbus is situated on the Chattahoochee riv^r, just below the falls, and 300 miles from the sea. The town was first laid out in 1828, when the site was yet covered with the native forest, and now contains 5000 inhabitants, with several churches, news- papers, &c. Many thousand bales of cotton are shipped every year from this place, and numerous steam-boats are employed on the Chattahoochee. Dahlonega, in the northern part of the state, between the Chestatee and Etowa, is the seat of one of the offices of the United States' Mint. Darien is a neat and thriving little town, with an active trade in cotton, and in the lumber which is brought down the river in large quantities. Brunswick, with a fine spacious harbour, is situated on Turtle river, a few miles from the sea. A rail-i*oad from this place to St. Mark's, on Apalachee bay, is contemplated. St. Mary's, a small town on the river of the same name, just above its entrance into Cumberland sound, derives importance from its deep and commodious harbour. FLORIDA TERRITORY. Florida is bounded north by Alabama and Georgia, south and west bv the Gulf of Mexico, and east by the Atlantic Ocean. Its mean length, from north to south, is 380 miles, and the mean breadth 150 ; the area being 55,000 square miles. The surface of Florida is in gieneral level, and not much ele- vated above the sea. It is intersected by numerous ponds, lakes, V \ 'Si i >l 130 NORTH AMERICA. i and rivers, of which the principal are, the St. John's, Apalachi* colu, tiuwancc, Ocklockony, Choctuwhatchic, Escumbio, and Vol low- Water rivers. The southern part of the peninsula is a mere marsh, and terminates at Capo Sable in heaps of sharp rocks, interspersed with a scattered growth of shrubby pines. The gulf stream setting along the coast has here worn away the land, forming those islands, keys, and rocks, known by the general name of the Ueefs, and by the Spaniards culled cuyos, between which and the main land is a navigable channel. These islands contain some settlements and many good harbours. One of the most important is Key West, or Thompson's Island, six miles long, and two in breadth, on which is the town of Key West, the most southern in the United States : it is a naval station, and the scat of an admiralty court : the harbour is good, well sheltered, and commodious, and of sufficient depth of water to admit the largest vessels. Live-oak timber, one of the most valuable products of Florida, i.s cut and exported to u considerable amount ; also cedar logs, boards, staves, hides, tullow, and bees-wax. The fig, pomegra- nute, orange, and date, are among thu fruits ; cotton is the chief agricultural staple, the annual crop being about 60,000 bales ; the sugar-cane is also pretty extensively cultivated ; rice is raised in large quantities ; and indigo formerly furnished a valuable article of exportation, but is now only raised for family use. But Florif!u is on the whole better suited for a grazing country; and its vast herds of cattle, horses, swine, &c., find a boundless ex- tent of ran j9 in its fine pastures. The climate, from October to June, is generally salubrious ; but the months of July, August, and September, are extremely hot and uncomfortable ; and during this season, fevers are prevalent. At St. Augustine, however, the climate is delightful, and this place is the resort of invalids. The population of Florida, in 1830, amounted to 34,730; the different classes of which are as follows: whites, 18,385; free coloured, 844; slaves, 15,501. Of the various Indian tribes that once inhabited Florida, the Seminoles alone remain. They were supposed a few years ago to amount to about 3000 or 4000 in number. Some of them have removed to the Indian territory west of the Mississippi river ; the residue after several years of tedious and difficult warfare, are, in consequence of an arrangement lately made with the government of the United States, to reside in the terri- tory for the present. They inhabit a marshy and tilmost un- known tract in the southern part of the peninsula, called the Everglades. I ALAUAMA. ini #t. Augustine is tho oldcMt town in Iho UnitRd 8tat<>K. It i« regularly built, but tho streets an; narrow ; the houses nrp gene- rnlly two stories high, surrounded with bolconieg and piazxHs, and built of a sholT-stone, or n t;oi»crfttion of shells and sand. Although the country in the vicinity is ()oor, vet there are fmo gardens in and around the town ; the beautiful orongo groves, which ornamented the neighbourhood, and were very profitable to their owners, were mostly destroyed by tho severe cold of 1837. Jacksonville, on tho St. John's, is a flourishing town, forming the depdt of the trade of the surrounding country ; it is also u considerable thoroughfare, and the projected East Florida ruiU road is to run from this point to St. Mark's. St. Mark's is tho shipping port of a populous and productive district, ai.d is a growing town, with a good hnrbour; tho cntronco affords 12 feet of water ; but up to the town, eight miles from the sea, the bay carries only nine feet. A raiUroad connects St. Mark's with the capital, Tallahassee, 21 miles. A work of tho samo kind, 190 miles in length, is contemplated from hence to Bruns- wick, Georgia. Tallahassee stands on an eminence in a fertile district, and contains the capitol, several churches and banks, with about 2000 inhabitants. Apalachicola is a flourishing little town, at the mouth of the river of the same name. About 50,000 bales of cotton were exported from Apalachicola during the year 1835. St. Joseph's, on tho bay of the same name, is also a place of growing trade. The bay affords 25 to 33 feet of water, and is well sheltered from all winds. A raiUroad from St. Joseph's to the little lake Wimico, connects the town with the river Apala- chicola. Pensacola, on the bay of the same name, is important as a navol station of the United States ; it is accessible to small ves- sels through Santa Rosa Sound, a long, shallow lagoon, shel- tered by the island of Santa Rosa, which also fronts the bay of Pensacola, and through the main channel to ships of war, up to the navy.yard, about six miles below the town. The popula- tion of Pensacola is about 2000. '1 H ■n J STATE OF ALABAMA. The state of Alabama is bdunded north by Tennessee, east by Georgia, south by Florida, and west by the state of Missis- sippi. Length 280 miles; breadth 160 miles; area 51,770 square miles. The principal rivers are the Alabama, Tombigby, Black '¥i. I mim f T) rt(||l:; 132 NORTH AMERICA, Warrior, Coosa, Tallapoosa, Tennessee, Chattahoochee, Perdido, and Cahawba. The southern part of the country, which borders on the Gulf of Mexico and West Florida, for the space of 50 miles wide, is low and level, covered with pine, cypress, «fec. ; in the middle it is hilly, with some tracts of open land ; the northern part is somewhat broken and mountainous, and the country generally is more elevated above the sea them most other parts of the United States at equal distance from the ocean. The Alleghany moun- tains terminate in the north-east part of the state. Alabama possesses great diversity of soil, climate, natural, vegetable, and mineral productions. The sugar-cane has been found to succeed in the extreme southern, and some tobacco is cultivated in the northern counties. Indigo was formerly raised in considerable quantities ; rice also grows well on the alluvial bottom near the Gulf; but cotton, which thrives throughout the state, is the great agricultural staple. The cotton crop at present exceeds 350,000 bales. Indian-corn, the principal grain, is raised in all parts of Alabama. There are extensive beds of bituminous coal and iron ore in the central part of the state, both of which are of excellent quality, and several forges are in" operation on the Cahawba. Gold is found in the northern section, and good marble has been obtained from the central tract ; but the mineral resources of Alabama have never been carefully explored. Several useful works of internal improvement have already been constructed, or are in active progress, in this youthful state. The Tuscumbia and Decatur rail-road extends round the Muscle Shoals of the Tennessee river, 45 miles. And there is also a canal, sixty feet wide, and six feet deep, surmounting the same obstruction. The Florida and Georgia rail-road, from Pensticola to Columbus, 210 miles ; the Montgomery and Chattahoochee rail-road, from Montgomery to West Point, Georgia, 85 miles, and the Wetumpka and Coos?, rail-road, are in progress. The connexion of these works with the valley of the Tennessee is also contemplated. The growth of Alabama has been extremely rapid, there hav- ing been a constant tide of immigration, chiefly of planters with their slaves from the Atlantic states. The high price of cotton, and the extensive sales of Indian lands, have contributed to this result ; and from the same causes, the population will be found, no doubt, to hiave doubled since 1830. The constitution enjoins it upon the general assembly to encourage schools and the means of education within -the state; ajid by aqt o^ coqgrcss in 1819, one section of 640 acres of 'he I J ALABAMA. 133 public lands, in each township, was reserved for the support of common schools in the township ; two entire townships, or 46,080 acres, were also granted to the state for the support of a semi- nary of learning, the proceeds of which have been appropriated to the endowment of the University of Alabama, in Tuscaloosa. La Grange college, and Spring Hill college, near Mobile, are also useful institutions, and there are numerous academies in the state. The State University also is in a promising condition. The Methodists, Baptists, and Presbyterians, are the prevailing sects, and there are some Episcopalians and Roman Catholics. POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. In 1810, less than 10,000 ; in 1816, 29,683 ; in 1818, 70,542. INCREASE. In 1820 127,901 1827 244,041 1830 309,.527 1839 510,840 From 1820 to 1830 . . . 181,626 1830 to 1839 . . . 201,313 SLAVES. 41,879 93,008 117,549 214,989 INCREASE. 51,129 24,541 97,440 Of the above population of 1830, there were, white males, 100,846 ; white females, 80,560 ; deaf and dumb, 89 ; blind, 68; aliens, 65. Total whites, 1 90,406. Free coloured males, 844 ; females, 728. Total, 1572. Slaves — males, 59,170 ; females, 58,379. Total, 117,549. The city of Mobile is a flourishing commercial town, being the dep6t for nearly the whole state of Alabama and part of Georgia and Mississippi ; it is built on a dry and elevated spot, with spa- cious and handsome streets, paved with shells. The inhabitants are supplied with good water brought into the city by pipes. In October, 1839, three destructive fires occurred, by which more than 500 houses were burned, and goods destroyed to the value of more than 1,500,000 dolUars. The annual export of cotton from the port is about 250,000 bales. The population in 1830 was 3194 ; but now exceeds 13,000. Montgomery, near the head of the Alabama, is a busy, grow- ing town, with about 2000 inhabitants. Wetumpka, on the Coosa, at the head of steam-boat navigation, was cut out of the forest in 1832, and is now a place of considerable business, with 3000 inhabitants. Gainesville, on the Tombigby river, is a thriving town, lately settled. Tuscaloosa, the capital, stands in a rich district, near the cen- tre of the state, on the Black Warrior river, and, being accessible to steam-boats, is a place of considerable trade : it contains the state-house, the halls of the university, the county buildings, &c. The population of the town is about 2000. Florence, below Muscle Shoals, at the head of steam-boat 12 ill! 11 •iV!- ill! mt:.! (■il J 134 NORTH AMERICA. navigation on the Tennessee, is a growing place of about 2000 inhabitants, with a prosperous and increasing trade. Tuscumbia is also a thriving town. Above the Shoals, and about ten miles north of the river, is Huntsville, situated in a very fertile and beautiful region, with about 2500 inhabitants. *| !:■ STATE OF MISSISSIPPI. The state of Mississippi is bounded on the north by Tennessee, east by Alabama, south by the Gulf of Mexico and Louisiana, west by Louisiana and Arkansas. It is about 300 miles in ave- rage length, and 160 in breadth ; area, about 48,000 square miles. The principal rivers are the Mississippi, Pearl, Pascagoula, Yazoo, Big Black, Tennessee, and the western branches of the Tombigby. The Mississippi forms the western boundary of the state for 700 miles by the course of the river. The southern part of the state, extending about 100 miles north from the Gulf of Mexico, is mostly a level country, with occa- sional hills of moderate elevation, and is covered with forests of the long-leaved pine, interspersed with cypress swamps, open prairies, and inundated marshes. A considerable portion of this part is susceptible of cultivation. The soil is generally sandy sometimes gravelly and clayey. It is capable of producing cotton, corn, indigo, sugar, garden vegetables, plums, cherries, peaches, figs, sour oranges, and grapes. In proceeding north, the face of the country becomes more elevated and agreeably diversified ; and the soil is exceedingly productive, yielding abundant crops of cotton, corn, wheat, sweet potatoes, garden vegetables, and fruit. Nearly all the country watered by the Yazoo, is described as incomparably fertile and well watered. Its climate, and the value of its productions, will doubtless cause it to become an important part of the state. Tobacco and indigo were formerly the staples of Mississippi, but cotton, at present, is the chief production of the state, and it absorbs nearly all the industry of the inhabitants, to the exclusion even of corn and cattle. The crop is about 300,000 bales. Some sugar is produced in the southern strip, but the cane does not appear to thrive. Several works of magnitude have already been undertaken for facilitating the transportation of the bulky staple of the state. The Mississippi rail-road, which is to extend from Natchez, through Jackson, to Canton in Madison county, a distance of 150 miles, is m progress. The Woodville and St. Francisville } MISSISSIPPI. 135 rail-road, from Woodville to the Mississippi in Louisiana, 28 miles, is completed. The Port Gibson and Grand Gulf rail-road, eight miles long, connects the former place with the Mississippi. The Vicksburg rail-road, from that town to Jackson, 54 miles, is also in progress. The Jackson and Brandon rail -road is eight miles in length. A large portion of Mississippi was, until recently, in the pos- session of the Choctaws and Chickasaws ; but the greater part of these have removed to the Indian territory. The same provision was made by Congress for the support of schools in this state, as was made in Alabama ; and the state has also a small literary fund, devoted to the same purpose. There are in the state seve- ral academies and four colleges. The population of Mississippi has increased with astonishing rapidity. In 1810, the population of the territory of Mississippi, which included the present state of that name and Alabama, was 40,352 ; in 1820, the state of Mississippi contained 75,448 inha- bitants, and in 1830, 136,621, of whom 65,659 were slave-s. During the last three or four years the emigration has been active and uninterrupted, and it is estimated that the population of the state at present is not less than 400,000. POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. In 1820 75.448 1830 136,621 INCREASE. From 1820 to 1830 61,273 SLAVES. 32,814 65,659 INCREASE. 32,845 Of the above population of 1830, there were, white males, 38,466; white females, 31,977; deaf and dumb, 29; blind, 25: total whites, 70,443. Free coloured males, 288 ; females, 231 : total, 51 9. Slaves— males, 33,099 ; females, 32,560 : total, 65,659. Natchez, the largest and most important town in the state, is situated on the east bank of the Mississippi, 300 miles above New Orleans. It consists of two distinct parts : the lower town, called Natchez under the hill, or the landing, is built on a dead level on the margin of the river, about half a mile in length, and from 100 to 200 yards in breadth : the upper town stands on a lofty bank or bluff, rising abruptly to the height of 300 feet, and is the residence of the better class of citizens. The streets are wide, regularly disposed, and adorned with fine shade trees, while many of the houses are embosomed in groves of the orange, pal- metto, and other trees, and ornamental shrubs. Notwithstanding its distance from the sea, Natchez carries on a considerable direct trade with foreign countries, and large ships come up to the town. Its river and inland trade is very extensive. The popu- lation in 1830 was 2790, but at present it is about 6000. •••fv ;s t •::} ,.*: t 3' I 136 NORTH AMERICA. Vicksburg, 106 miles above Natchez, and about 12 miles below the mouth of the Yazoo river, stands in a picturesque situation, on the declivity of several considerable eminences, called the Walnut Hills, rising abruptly from the river. It is the dep6t of a large tract of newly-settled country, which a few years since was owned and occupied solely by Indians. It contains at present probably 4000 inhabitants. The merchants of Vicks- burg have commenced a direct intercourse by sea with the Atlantic ports. All the trade of the Yazoo country centres here. The town is upwards of 500 miles from the Gulf of Mexico, by the Mississippi river. On the west bank of Pearl river is Jackson, the capital of the state : it is finely situated in a plain about half a mile square, on which stand the state-house, the penitentiary, and some other public buildings. It contains about 1500 inhabitants. Woodvillp, in the south-western part of the state, 16 miles from the Mississippi, is a very pretty and growing village, with 1000 inhabitants. The little village of Fort Adams on the Mississippi, is considered as its port, but Woodville is now connected with the river at St. Francisville by a rail-road. Port Gibson is a flourishing little town, with 1500 inhabitants, prettily situated in a charming tract of country on the Bayou Pierre. The river is navigable for steam-boats to this place in time of high water, and a rail-road connects it with Grand Gulf, its port on the Mississippi. The latter takes its name from a re- markable eddy in the river, and is a thriving town with 1500 inhabitants. Grenada, on the Yale Busha, and Manchester, or Yazoo city, on the Yazoo, are thriving places, as are also Aberdeen and Co- lumbus, on the Tombigby ; the latter place has a population of 3000, and an extensive commercial business is transacted here. STATE OF LOUISIANA. Louisiana is bounded on the north by the states of Arkansas and Mississippi ; on the east, by the latter state ; on the south, by the Gulf of Mexico ; and on the west by the republic of Texas. The 33d degree of north latitude is the northern boundary, west of the Mississippi river; and the 31st degree on the east of that river : the Pearl river is its extreme eastern boundary, and the Sabine its wesiern. It is in length 240 miles, by 210 in breadth, and contains 4P 330 square miles. Three-fourths of the state rire without an elevation that can he J i a i miles uresque nences, It is the w years ttains at ' Vicks- vith the res here, xico, by il of the uare, on ne other iles from ith 1000 ssissippi, I with the labitants, e Bayou place in ^nd Gulf, om a re- th 1500 zoo city, and Co- ation of jd here. ^rkansas outh, by Texas. ry^ west of that and the Ibreadth, can be LOUISIANA. 137 properly called a hill. The pine woods generally have a surface of a very peculiar character, rising into fine swells, with table surfaces on the summit, and valleys intervening from 30 to 40 feet deep. The alluvial soil is level, and the swamps, which are the only inundated alluvions, are dead flats. I'he vast prairies which constitute a large portion of the surface of the state, have in a remarkable degree all the distinctive aspects of prairies. The Mississippi, after having formed the boundary of the state for about 450 miles, enters its limits, 350 miles from the sea by the course of the river channel. Throughout this distance of 800 miles, its western bank is low, and flooded in high stages of the river. Outlets, or bayous^ receive its surplus waters during tht period of the annual inundation, which are carried off by them to the sea : the principal of these bayous are the Atchalafaya, Plaquemine, La Fourche, &c. The rivers in this state, in addition to the Mississippi, are, the Red River ; the Washita, flowing into the Red River ; the Teche, Vermillion, Mermentau, and Calcasiu, run into the Gulf of Mexico, together with the Pearl, on the east, and the Sabine, on the west. The Red River is the most important, and, indeed, with the ex- ception of two or three insignificant streams on the eastern side above Baton Rouge, the only tributary of the Mississippi within this state. Its bed was formerly choked up by an immense accumulation of fallen timber, called The Raft, which extended over a distance of 160 miles ; but this is now removed, and steam- boats can ascend the river several hundred miles higher than formerly. On the banks of the Mississippi, La Fourche, the Teche, and the Vermillion, below latitude 30° 12' north, wherever the soil is elevated above the annual inundations, sugar can be produf^ed ; and the lands are generally devoted to this crop. In al! other parts of the state, cotton is the staple. The best districts for cotton are the banks of Red River, Washita, Teche, and the Mississippi. The cultivation of rice is more particularly con- fined to the banks of the Mississippi, where irrigation can be easily performed. The amount of sugar produced hfs gradually increased in this state, from 1783 to the present time. The crop of sugar is now from 70,000 to 90,000 hhds. ; and of cotton, about 200,000 bales. Indian-corn and tobacco are a'^o produced. The prairies of the western part of the state afford fine pastures, and here are found large herds of cattle and horses. There are valuable school lands in Louisiana, reserved, like those in the other new states, on the sale of the public lands ; and there are three colleges in the state, Louisiana college at 12* vA} ri-' i M ,_,ip } ■fl 138 NORTH AMERICA. Jackson, Franklin college at Opelousas, and Jefierson college ; in 1835, the legislature voted an allowance of 15,000 dollars a year to each of these institutions, and some attempts have been made, although with not much success, to provide for the educa- tion of poor children. There is a medical school in New Or- leans. The Roman Catholics form the majority of the popula- tion ; but there are many Methodists, Baptists, Presbyterians, and Episcopalians. Several rail-roads are constructing in the state. The New Orleans and Nashville rail-road is in progress from New Orleans to the Mississippi state line, 88 miles. This vast work, when finished, will no doubt bring a great increase of trade to New Orleans : it will be upwards of 500 miles in length. The Clin- ton and Port Hudson, 28 miles, has been lately finished. The Atchalafaya rail-road, from Opelousas to the Mississippi river, is in progress, and a rail-road has been made from Alexandria to a point on the Bayo'.i Boeuf, a distance of 30 miles. The St. Francisville and Woodville rail-road, 28 miles, is principally within this state. The New Orleans and La Fourche canal, extending from the Mississippi to the river La Fourche, is in progress. Some useful works of less extent have also been executed. Among these are the Pontchartrain rail-road, four miles, from New Orleans to the lake of that name, and the CarroUton rail-road, from the same city, six miles up the river. There are also canals from New Orleans to Lake Pontchartrain. The population of Louisiana consists in part of the French and Spanish colonists by whom it was occupied at the time of the cession, but it comprises also a large and increasing number of immigrants from the other states. The French language is used exclusively by a considerable proportion of the population, but the English is also familiar to many inhabitants of French origin. POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. In 1810. 1 '20. 1830. 76,556 153,407 215,739 INCREASE. From 1810 to 1820. . , . 76,851 1820 to 1830.... 62,322 SLAVES. 34,660 69,064 109,588 INCREASE. 34,404 40,524 Of the above population of 1830, there were, white males, 49,794 ; white females, 39,397 ; deaf and dumb, 45 ; blind, 28 ; aliens, 1700: total whites, 89,441. — Free coloured, 16,441; slaves, 109,588. New Orleans, the third commercial mart in the Union, stands on the left bank of the Mississippi, 100 miles from the sea by ^ lege; ars a been duca- w Or- Dpula- irians, 5 New Orleans , when D New e Clin- . The iver, is ma to a rhe St. icipally rom the e useful tiese are IS to the he same im New French time of number ;uage is )ulation, French INCREASE. 34,404 40,524 le males, llind, 28 ; 16,441 ; |n, stands sea by LOUISIANA. 130 the course of the river, and four miles from Lake Pontchartrain. Steam-boats and small vessels come up to the landing on tho latter, where an artificial harbour has been formed, and whence a rail-road and two canals extend to the rear of the city. In the front of the city, on the river, the largest merchant-ships lie close up to the levee or bank, so that no wharves are necessary to enable them to load and discharge. The river is here from 100 to 160 feet deep, and a half-mile wide. New Orleans is the dep6t of the whole Mississippi Valley, and must increase in importance with the daily growing wealth and population of that vast region. Thousands of huge arks and flat-boats float down its mighty artery lor thousands of miles, loaded with the produce of New York, Pennsylvania, and Vir- ginia, as well as with that of the more western states. The number of steam-boat arrivals in 1837 was 1549; and from 1500 to 2000 flat-boats, 50 to 60 steamers, and a forest of the masts of sea-vessels, may be seen lying at once along its ievee. The produce that arrived at this place from the various states, dec. watered by the Mississippi and its tributary streams, during the year 1838, is estimated to amount in value to 75,000,000 dollars ; among which were 750,000 bales of cotton, 300,000 barrels of flour, 50,000 i.ogshe^ds of sugar, and 40,000 hogs- heads of tobacco, besides large quantities of molasses, salted provisions, whiskey, lead, &c. The whole amount of the com- mercial transactions of this city during the year, probably exceeds 80,000,000 dollars. The city stands on a dead level, and is regularly laid out, with the streets intersecting each other at right angles ; as the surface of the water is from two to four feet above the level of the city at high water, and even in low stages of water, is above the swamps in the rear, a levee, or embankment, from four to eight feet high, has been made all along the river to prevent inundations ; a breach or crevasse sometimes occurs in this dike, but it is rarely permitted to do much damage before it is closed. Among the public buildings are the Roman Catholic cathedral, a massive and imposing building with four towers, the state- house, city hall, custom-house, exchange, mint, Ursuline con- vent, several theatroF, the college of Orleans, the charity hospi- tal, in which 9000 patients have been received in a single year, and three other hospitals, the orphan asylum, &c. The chari- table institutions are numerous and well conducted. Population in 1810, 17,242; in 1820, 27,176; in 1^30, 46,310; now about 80,000, exclusive of from 40,000 to 50,000 strangers during the winter. Donaldson ville, for some time the capital of the state, is a vil- n :? I-.-! .41;. '1 140 NORTH AMERICA. m . lage with about 1000 inhabitants, at the mouth of the Lafourche outlet. Baton Rouge, 130 miles, by the river, above New Or- leans, is a pretty village, with houses in the French and Spanish style, and it contains a military post, and an arsenal of the United States. The population of Baton Rouge is about 1500. St. Francisville, at the mouth of the Bayou Saru, is a neat, busy, and thriving village, consisting chiefly of one street. Alexandria, on Red river, 100 miles from the Mississippi by the windings of the stream, is a pleasant little village in the cen- tre of a rich cotton region, and ships large quantities of that staple for New Orleans. Population, 1500. Natchitoches, 90 miles above Alexandria, was founded in 1717 ; the population, 2500 in number, is a mixture of French, Indians, Spanish, and Americans. It was formerly the centre of the trade with the Mexican interior provinces, receiving dollars, horses, and mules, and sending off manufactured goods, tobacco, and spirits. St. Martinsville, and New Iberia, on the Teche, and Opelousas or St. Landre, to the north, are small villages, containing from 300 to 500 inhabitants, but surrounded by a fer- tile and well-cultivated country. ^\\r WESTERN STATES AND TERRITORIES. This section of the United States comprises the states of Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Missouri, and Arkansas, the organized Territory of Wisconsin, together with the nominal Territories of Missouri and Oregon, and the West- ern or Indian Territory, assigned by the Federal government for the residence of the emigrant Indian tribes. It includes the whole of that vast space extending from the western base of the Alleghany Mountains to the Pacific ocean, and from the Red river of Louisiana and the 42d degree of lati- tude on the south to the parallels of 49° and 54° 40' on the north, extending from east to west 2300 miles, and from north to south 1100 miles, comprising an area of 1,683,000 square miles. The Rocky Mountains are the most important in this region. They are but imperfectly known to us, and present a very rug- ged and sterile appearance. The other elevations are the Ozark Mountains, extending from Missouri south-west to Mexico ; the Black Hills, between the Missouri and Yellow-Stone rivers ; and between the former river and the St. Peter's river a low ridge intervenes, known as the Coteau des Prairies. WESTERN STATES. 141 region, ry rug- 5 Ozark CO ; the rs ; and >w ridge The immense prairies of this region constitute the most re- markable feature of the country. These are level plains stretch- ing as far as the eye can rea( h, totally destitute of trees, and covered with tall grass or flovering shriibs. Some have an undulating surface, and arc called rolling ^.airics; these are the most extensive, and are the favourite resort of the buffalo. Hero, without a tree or a stream of water, the traveller may wander for days, and discovei nothing but a grassy ocean, bounded on all sides by the horizon. In the dry season, the Indians set fire to the grass ; and the wide conflagration which ensues, oflen surprises the buffalo, deer, and other wild animals, who are unable to escape from the flames, and are burned to death. Much of this great country, especially the northern and western parts, remains to be explored. Of the region west of the Missis- sippi, hardly any thing was known before the beginning of the piesent century, when the government of the United States dis- patched Captains Lewis and Clark on an expedition of discovery. These officers, at ihe head of a large party, well equipped, pro- ceeded up the r.iissouri in boats to its source, crossed the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean, and returned by the same course. The southern part was explored by an expedition under Lieutonant Pike; and at a later period. Major Long and other travellers have visited different parts of the country. The great physical features of this extensive region, are its giant rivers, with their hundred arms, spreading for thousands of miles through every corner of the territory, and bringing its most remote recesses in the very heart of a vast continent, almost into contact with the sea. The main trunks of this great system of rivers, are the Mississippi and the Mis«!ouri. The Ohio, on the east, and the Arkansas, Red River, and Platte, on the west, are the largest of the subordinate streams. These vast water-courses give to the mode of travelling and transportation in general, a remarkable cast, and have created a peculiar class of men called boatmen. Crafl of all description are found on these rivers. There are the rude, shapeless masses, that denote the infancy of navigation, and the powerful and richly-adorned steam-boat which makes its perfection ; together with all the intermediate forms between these extremes. Since the use of steam-boats, numbers of the other crafl have disappeared, and the number of river boatmen has been dimin- ished by many thousands. There are at present not far from 300 steam-boats on the Mississippi and its tributaries, making an aggregate of about 60,000 tons. Lead, iron, coal, salt, and lime abound in the Western States K I M ':.! .:!:> 142 NORTH AMERICA. ii m 'M ; and probably no region in the world exhibits such a combination of mineral wealth and iertility of soil, united with such rare faci* lities of transportation. Tobaci;o, Indiun-corn, hemp, cotton, salted provisions, flour, whiskey, hides and furs, coarse bagging, and lead, are the most important articles of export ; and all sorts of manufactured goods and colonial produce are imported. The character of the Western States is mixed, but the predo- minant traits are those of Virginia, and of New England. Ken* tucky was settled from Virginia and North Carolina ; while Ohio is a scion of New England. These two states have in turn sent their population farther west. But there is much sectional cha- racter, much of the openness and boldness of the men and their descendants, who contested every inch of territory with savages, whoso houses were garrisons, and who fought at the threshold foi their hearths and altars. The population of the western states and territories, in 1830, was 3,010,681 ; of whom 336,505 were slaves. The inhabitants of this section have since greatly increased, and are probably not less than 4,700,000. The negroes constitute a considerable part of the population. They are held as slaves in all the states but Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, and Michigan. Nearly ail the Indians in the United States arc found within the limits of this quarter of the Union. Some of these are partially civilized, but a considerable number still remain unchanged ; and whih the settlements, arts, and improvements of white men are narrowing their boundaries, they still retain their original savage character and condition. The Creeks, Choctaws, Cherokees, Chickasaws, and other tribes now resident in the Indian territory, and under the protection of the general government, increase steadily in population and pros- perity ; while the Sioux, Riccarees, Blackfeet, and other rude, roving bands of the Upper Missouri, are decreasing rapidly in numbers and importance. Within a few years the smalUpox has swept them by thousands from the face of the earth ; and tribes but lately numerous and powerful, are now reduced to a few individuals. STATE OF OHIO. This enterprising and populous state is bounded on the north by Lake Erie and Michigan territory ; east by Pennsylvania and Virginia; south by the Ohio river, which separates it from western Virginia and Kentucky ; and west by Indiana. Its length is 210 miles, and mean breadth 200, containing about 44,000 OHIO. 143 square miles. The Ohio river forms the boundary of this state, on the south-cast and south, for near 500 miles. The rivers u hich flow into Lake Erie on the north, ore Maumee, Sandusky, Huron, Vermillion, Black, Cuyahoga, Grand, and Ashtabula ; those on the south flowing into the Ohio, are the Muskingum, Hocking, Little and Great Miami. The interior and northern parts of the country, bordering on Lake Erie, are generally level, and in some places marshy. Nearly one-third of the eastern and south-eastern part is very hilly and broken. The hills are exceedingly numerous, but they seldom rise into considerable mountains. Immediately upon the banks of the Ohio, and several of its tributaries, are numerous tracts of interval or meadow-land, of great fertility. The state produces abundantly every thing that is raised in the middle states. Indian-corn grows luxuriantly ; wheat grows finely ; and flour is exported in vast quantities by the Ohio and Lake Erie to southern and eastern markets. Many steam-mills have been erected, especially in the vicinity of the Ohio river, for the manufacturing of flour. Mills for the same purpose, pro- pelled by water, are to be found in every part of the state. Rye, oats, buckwheat, &c. are produced abundantly ; and tobacco is raised to the amount of 25,000 hogsheads annually. Horses, cattle, and ho^s are here raised in great numbers, and driven to an eastern market ; and thousands of barrels of beef and pork are sent from all the towns on the navigable streams, to the southern part of the valley, or to New York. Coal is found in great quantities in the eastern parts. Iron ore has been discovered, and wrought pretty extensively in several places. Salt springs are found on some of the eastern waters of Muskingum, and on Salt creek, 28 miles south-east of Chillicothe, where there are considerable salt-works. The manufactures of the state are yet in their infancy, but are rapidly increasing in importance. The local position of Ohio gives it great facilities for trade ; the Ohio river affords direct com- munication with all the country in the valley of the Mississippi, while by means of Lake Erie on the north it communicates with Canada and New York. The northern and eastern counties export great quantities of agricultural produce to Montreal and New York, and since the construction of the Ohio and Pennsylvania canals, a vast amount if the productions of the southern and western counties also find their way to New York and Philadelphia : an active export trade is likewise carried on down the river, by way of New Orleans. A system of general education has been organized, and is in efficient operation throughout the state. In addition to the funds ft' 1 I'.f • 1;' ■ "'ii n 'I i 144 NuiiTii ami;kic;a. *t aiising from the 8nlc of Hchool Inndti a[>|)ro|)riutc(l by Congresii Q state tax is levied to aid in the support of coiniiion schooh each township is divided into school districts, and those districts which support a school for three months in a year arc entitled to receive their quota of the state's money. In 1838 there wore about 500,000 pupils in the public schools of Ohio. There are about .'30 respectable academies in the state, and 10 colleges. The predominant religious sects are the Presbyterians, Metho- dists, and Baptists. The Lutherans, Episcopalians, German Reformed, and Friends, are also numerous, and there are some Roman Catholics, Universalists, Shakers, and adherents of the New Jerusalem Church. The public works which have been already executed, or arc in a state approaching to completion, are of a magnitude to strike us with surprise, when we consider the infant character of the state. Two great works, crossipg the state from north to south, connect the waters of the Ohio with those of the great lakes, and through them with the Atlantic Ocean. The Ohio canal extends from Portsmouth at the mouth of the Scioto, to Lake Erie, a distance of 310 miles, with navigable feeders of 24 mibs. The Mami canal, extending I'rom Cincinnati to the Wabash and Erie canal at Defiance, 26.5 miles, is not yet completed. The Wabash and Erie canal extends from Manhattan on the Maumcc, to the Indiana state line, whence it is continued to the Wabash in that state : the section within Ohio is 80 miles in length. These works are executed by the state. The amount of tolls received on the Ohio canals in 1838, was 415,000 dollars. The Mahoning, or Pennsylvania and Ohio canal, extending from Akron, on the Ohio canal, to the Beaver division of the Pennsylvania canal, 82 miles ; and the Sandy and Beaver canal, extending from Bolivar on the Ohio canal, to the mouth of the Beaver, 73 miles, are in progress. The Mad river rail-road, begun in 1835, will extend from Dayton, at the mouth of Mad river, to Sandusky Bay, 153 miles. A rail-road from Cleveland to Pittsburg has been projected and authorized by law. The state of Ohio, in the prosecution ol' her internal improvements, has incurred a debt of 10,000,000 dolla >. The Cumberland or National road is continued from ^* r»eeling, across this state, through Zanesville, Columbus, and >^ringfield, to the Indiana line. In competing for the trade of the great west, New York, Penn sylvania, and Maryland, are making strenuous exertions to con - ncct their lines of communicatwn w ^ the canals and navigation of Ohio ; this being a central point a relation to the westers ysade. i ,' OHIO. 145 The rnpid growth of tlio population oJ' Ohio has never Ijceii purullcled ; in 4^ years from the time when it received its first white settlers, the number of Us inhabitants was 037,903. Its fertile and unoccupied lands attracted immigrants not only from the other states, chieHy the Eastern and Middle, but largo bodies of Swiss and Germans, and great numljcrs of British emigrants, have settled themselves on its rich plains. POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. In 1790 3,000 1800 45,365 1810 230,760 1820 581,434 1830 937,903 INOREABE. From 1790 to 1800 49,365 1800 to 1810 185,395 1810 to 1820 3.50,674 1830 to 1830 356,469 Of the above population of 1830, there were, white males, 479,700 ; white females, 448,303 ; deaf and dumb, 446 ; blind, 251 ; aliens, 5524 : total whites, 928,093. Free coloured males, 4826 ; females, 4760 : total, 9586. The city of Cincinnati, the principal town in the state, and the largest city in the west, is situated on the first and second banks of the Ohio river. The streets are drawn with great regularity in lines parallel and at right angles to the river. There are here 30 churches, an hospital, a lunatic asylum, a theatre, athentcum, medical college, dtc, and the free schools of the city are nume- rous and on an excellent footing. The growth of Cincinnati has been astonishingly rapid; it was founded in 1789, and in 1800 it had a population of 750 souls; which had increased in 1830 to 24,831, and in 1840 is not less thun 45,000. It has become the seat of extensive manufactti'*^«s and it carries on an active trade by the river and canal. :»Jh^«(in-boats and steam-engines are made here to a great exhwit. Brass and iron founderies, cotton factories, rolling and siitting-mills, saw and grist-mills, and chemical laboratories, are swrnong the manufacturing establish- ments: the value of manulwctureil articles produced in 1836 was estimated at upwards of 12,000,000 dollars ; and the value of the exports was estimated at more than 8,000,000 dollars. Beef, pork, wheat and flour, whiskey, with various manufactured arti- cles, are among the exports. Columbus, the capital of the state, is pleasantly situated on the Scioto, at the intersection of the river by the National road, and a branch of the Ohio canal. It is built on a regular plan, with a pretty square in the centre of the town, round which stand some of the principal public buildings. Here are the state-house, an asvliim for the deaf and dumb, a new penitentiary, conducted on 13 ft >i ^'\W' il m^'^"'"^ \ i t ■ 146 NORTH AMERICA. the Auburn plan, court-houses, five churches, &c. Population, in 1830, 2437 ; and in 1836, 5000. Chillicothe stands between Paint creek and the Scioto, and the streets, extending across the neck from river to river, are inter- sected at right angles by others running parallel to the Scioto. Population, 4000. The manufactures of the place are pretty- extensive, and are rapidly increasing. Portsmouth, at the south- ern end of the Ohio canal, derives importance from its situation; its trade is considerable. Population, 3000. Zanesville stands at the head of steam-boat navigation on the Muskingum, by which and the Ohio canal it has a water com- munication with New Orleans and New York. The falls in the river have made Zanesville the seat of numerous mills and manu- facturing establishments, including flour-mills, saw-mills, iron founderies ; woollen, paper, cotton, and oil-mills ; glass-works, &c. Population, 7000. Two bridges cross the river here, and the town contains 9 churches, an athenaeum, two academies, &c Marietta, at the mouth of the Muskingum, id the oldest town in the state ; it is pleasantly situated partly on a lower and partly on an upper plain, with wide streets, shaded with ti:ees, green squares, and neat buildings. Th€lre are numerous mounds and embankments in and around the town. Some steam-boats are built here ; several saw-mills, an iron foundery, tanneries, &c., also furnish occupation to the inhabitants, whose number is 1500. Steubenville, on the Ohio, in the midst of a rich and populous district, contains a number of woollen and cotton manufactories, iron and brass founderies, steam-engine and machine factories, copperas works, several tanneries, and saw and flour-mills, a chemical laboratory, &c., with a population of 6000 souls. Cleveland, the most important lake-port of Ohio, stands on an elevated plain at the mouth of the Cuyahoga river and of the Ohio canal. The value of the articles brought here in 1838, through the Ohio canal, was upwards of 5,000,000 dollars. The lake commerce of Cleveland, by steam-boats and other vessels, is very extensive : its harbour has been secured by artificial piers, and is commodious and eas]- of access. The population in 1830 was 1076, and is now not less than 7000. Ohio city, on the opposite side of the river, contains 2000 inhabitants. Huron, a thriving little town further west, is the depdt of a very rich and flourishing district, and Norwalk, in its rear, situ- ated in a highly fertile country, contains some manufacturing establishments. Sandusky city is situated on a fine bay, with a good harbour, and is a busy and growing place. Perrysburg, at the head of steam-boat navigation on the Maumee, is prettily situated upon a high bank below the falls of the river ; its situ- KENTUCKY 147 ation combines great advantages both for navigation and manu- factures, and the completion of the Wabash and Erie canal will give it new importance. Toledo, formerly Fort Lawrence, is a flourishing town further down the river, with upwards of 2000 inhabitants. Dayton, on the Miami, at the junction of the Mad river, which furnishes a great number of mill-seats, is a rapidly grow- ing town, in a highly productive region. It carries on an active trade by the Miami canal, and it contains numerous saw and grist-mills, several woollen and cotton factories, an oil-mill, and other mslnufactories. Population in 1830, 2954; at present about 4000. m iron COMMONWEALTH OF KENTUCKY. Kentucky is bounded on the north by the Ohio river, east by Virginia, south by Tennessee, and west by the Mississippi. The greatest length is about 400 miles, breadth 170 ; area 40,000 square miles. The principal rivers of Kentucky are the Ohio, which flows along the state 637 miles, following its windings ; the Mississippi, Tennessee, Cumberland, Kentucky, Green, Licking, Big Sandy, Salt, and Rolling. Cumberland Mountains form the south-east boundary of this state. The eastern counties, bordering on Virginia, are moun- tainous and broken. A tract from five to twenty miles wide, along the banks of the Ohio, is hilly and broken land, interspersed with many fertile valleys. Between this strip, Green river, and the eastern counties, lies what has been called the garden of the state. This is the most populous part, and is about 150 miles long, and from 50 to 100 wide. The whole state, below the mountains, rests on an immense bed of limestone, usually about eight feet below the surface. There are everywhere apertures in this limestone, through which the waters of the rivers sink into the earth. The large rivers of Kentucky, for this reason, are more diminished during the dry season, than those of any other part of the United States, and the small streams entirely disappear. In the south- west part of the state, between Green river and the Cumberland, there arc several wonderful caves, of which the Mammoth cuve is the most remarkable, having been explored to a distance of several miles from its mouth. The principal productions of Kentucky are hemp, tobacco, *." s ¥ ■'■ ' \:i ■[ ''•■ 14» NORTH AMERICA. wheat, and Indian>corn. Salt springs are numerous, and supply not only this state, but a great part of Ohio and Tennessee, with this mineral. Valuable lead-mines have also been recently dis- covered. The principal manufactures are cloth, spirits, cordage^ salt, and maple-sugar. Hemp, tobacco, and wheat, are the prin- cipal exports. These are carried down the Ohio and Mississippi to New Orleans, and foreign goods received from the same place in return. In addition to the important commerce with New Orleans, by the channel of the Mississippi river, Kentucky has intimate commercial relations with the chief cities on the Atlan- tic seaboard. The Ohio and Mississippi rivers are the chief the- atres of Kentucky commerce, but the New York and Pennsyl- vania canals are also crowded with its materials. Some important works have been executed for the purpose of extending the facilities of transportation afforded by the natural channels. Of these the most important is the Louisville and Portland canal, passing round the falls of the Ohio : although only a mile and a half in length, it is 200 feet wide at the sur- face, and 50 feet at the bottom, and its locks admit steam-boats of the largest class. It is constructed in the most solid and durable manner, and cost 750,000 dollars. The Lexington and Ohio rail-road extends from Lexington to Louisville, 90 miles. No system of popular education has been adopted by this stale, but in many of the counties common schools are supported. There are also several respectable academies, and seven colleges, in the state. The predominant religious sects are the Baptists and Methodists ; the Presbyterians are also numerous, and there is a considerable number of Roman Catholics and Episcopalians. POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. i INCRKy 18E. SLAVES. INCREASE In 1790 73,677 12,430 43,344 1800.... 220,959 From 1790 to 1800. .V 147^8? 30,904 1810.... 406,511 1600 to 1810. .. 185,552 80,561 37,217 1820.... 564,317 1810 to 1820. ... 147,806 120,732 40,171 1830.... 687,917 1820 to 1830. .. 123,600 165,350 44,618 Of the above population there were, white males, 268,024 ; white females, 250,654; deaf and dumb, 283; blind, 156; aliens, 173: total whites, 518,678. Free coloured males, 2559; females, 2257: total, 4816. Slaves— males, 82,231; females, 83,119. total, 165,350. Lexington, the oldest town in the state, and for many years the seat of government, is beautifully situated in the centre of a fine fertile tract of country. The streets are spacious, well paved, and regularly laid out, and the houses and public buildings aro KENTUCKY. 149 remarkable for neatness and elegance. The halls of Transyl- vania University, the state lunatic asylum, eleven churches, &;c., are among the public buildings. There are here several large cotton and woollen manufactories, machine-shops, rope-works, cotton bagging factories, &c. Population about 7000. Frankfort, the capital, stands on the right bank of the Ken- tucky river, in a highly picturesque situation ; the site of the town is an alluvial bottom, above which the river hills rise abruptly to the height of upwards of 200 feet, giving a bold, wild character to the scenery, which contrasts finely with the quiet, rural beauty of the town itself. Steam-boats go up to Frankfort, 60 miles from the mouth of the river, and keel-boats much higher. The State-house is a handsome edifice, built of white marble taken from the banks of the river ; and there is here a penitentiary, conducted on the Auburn plan. The population is 2000. Louisville, the principal city of Kentucky, and, in point of wealth, trade, and population, one of the most important towns in the Western States, is finely situated immediately above the falls of the Ohio. The Louisville and Portland canal enables large steam-boats to reach Louisville at all stages of the water. This city carries nr ry extensive trade, many thousands of flat-boats arriving Iter early from all parts of the upper Ohio, and steam-boats ariivuig and departing daily in every direction. The population of Louisville, which in 1800 amounted to 600 souls, is now 25,000. The manufactures are various and exten- sive, comprising cotton-yarn and stuffs, iron, cotton-bagging, cordage, hats, &c. The town is well built and regularly laid out, with spacious, straight, and well-paved streets, running parallel to the river, intersected by others meeting them at right angles, and the landing is convenient for boats. There is a nautical asylum for disabled boatmen at Louisville. Portland is a grow- ing little village at the lower end of the canal. Maysville is the first considerable town of Kentucky which is passed in descending the river Ohio. It is the dep6t of the upper part of the state, and its trade is pretty extensive ; it has also some manufactures. Population, 4000. Maysville occupies a narrow, but somewhat elevated bottom, at the mouth of Limestone creek, which aflbrds a harbour for boats. Newport and Covington are thriving towns, situated on the opposite banks of the Licking river, and opposite to Cincinnati ; they are the seats of some manufacturing industry, as well as of an active trade, and contained together, in 1835, about 4000 inhabitants. At Newport there is an United States* Arsenal. About 20 miles south-west is the celebrated Big Bone Lick, which is much resorted to by invalids in the warm season. 13* ■i ■<.y 'd '■;■ i i 150 NORTH AMERICA. STATE OF TENNESSEE. qift. . ,;■■ f k; r |j'^, i' ^h '^^■'"':\ h Tennessee is bounded on the north by Kentucky ; east by North Carolina ; south by Georgia, Alabama, and Mississippi and west by Arkansas terr' 'ry, from which it is separated by the Mississippi river. It i it'SO miles long, and 104 broad, and contains 45,000 square miles. The principal rivers are the Mississippi, Tennessee, Cumber- land, Clinch, Duck, Holston, French-Broad, Nolichucky, Hiwas- see. Forked Deer, Wolf, and Elk rivers. Tennessee is washed by the river Mississippi on the west, and the Tennessee and Cumberland pass through it in very serpentine courses. West, Tennessee, lying between the Mississippi and the Tennessee rivers, is a level or slightly undulating plain : east of this section is Middle Tennessee, of a moderately hilly surface. The eastern part of the state adjoining North Carolina, is known by the name of East Tennessee : it abounds in mountains, many of them lofty, and presenting scenery peculiarly grand and pic- turesque. The soil in a country so uneven must be very various. The western part of the state has n black, rich soil ; in the middle are great quantities of excellent land ; in the eastern, part of the moun- tains are barren, but there are many fertile valleys. The climate is generally healthful. In East Tennessee, the heat is so tempered by the mountain air on one side, and by refreshing breezes from the Gulf of Mexico on the other, that this pa t of the state has one of the most desirable climates in North America. The middle part resembles Kentucky in climate. The soil produces abundantly cotton and tobacco, which are the staple commodities. The inhabitants also raise a plentiful supply of grain, grass, and fruit. They export cotton, tobacco, and flour, in considerable quantities ; and many other articles. The principal commerce is carried on through the Tennessee and Cumberland rivers, and from them through the Ohio and Missis- sippi to New Orleans. This state likewise supplies Kentucky, Ohio, &c. with cotton for inland manufactures ; and from East Tennessee considerable numbers of cattle are sent to the sen-ports on the Atlantic. The most valuable mineral products of Tennessee are iron, gold, coal, and salt. Gold is found in the south-eastern section, but it has not been systematically worked. Iron occurs through- out the state east of the Tennessee : there is a considerable num- ber of furnaces. Coal is found in the Cumberland mountains of excellent quality and in great quantities. Gold, marble, marl, sti laj ur SI tei the TENNESSEE. 151 buhr-stono, nitrous earth, and other useful minerals are found, and there are some valuable mineral springs. A rail-road from Knoxville to Charleston, forming part of the great Ohio and Charleston rail-road, has been proposed : also, others from North Carolina towards Knoxville, and from Georgia towards the Tennessee river. Another great work from New Orleans to Nashville, 500 miles in length, is in actual progress. The only work of this kind yet finished in Tennessee, is the Memphis and Lagrange rail-road, 50 miles long, with a branch of 13 miles from Macon to Somerville. The Hiwassee rail-road from Calhoun to Knoxville, 70 miles, is in progress. The state has a school-fund of 800,000 dollars, the interest of which is distributed to such school districts as provide a school- house, but little has yet been done towards the establishment of a common school system throughout the state. There are a number of respectable academies, and five collegiate institutions. The Methodists and Baptists are the most numerous religious bodies in Tennessee ; the Presbyterians are also numerous, and there are some Episcopalians, Lutherans, Friends, &c. POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. INCREASE. In 1800 105,603 1810 261,727 1820 420,813 1830 681,903 From 1800 to 1810 1810 to 1820 1820 to 1830 . . 156,125 . . 159,086 . . 261,090 SLAVES. 13,584 44,535 80,107 141,603 INCREASE. 30,951 35,572 61,496 Of the above population of 1830, there were, white males, 275,068 ; white females, 260,680 ; deaf and dumb, 208 ; blind, 176 ; aliens, 121 : total whites, 535,748. Free coloured males, 2330; females, 2225: total, 4555. Slaves— males, 70,216; females, 71,387 : total, 141,603. Nashville, the capital, and the only considerable city of the state, is pleasantly situated on the southern bank of the Cumber- land, in a fertile and picturesque tract. The site is elevated and uneven, and the town is well built, containing, beside some ele- gant dwelling-houses, the court-house, a lunatic asylum, a peni- tentiary conducted on the Auburn system, the halls of Nashville University, six churches, &c. The trade is active and pretty extensive, and there are some manufactories, comprising several brass and iron founderies, rolling-mills, tanneries, &c. The population was increased from 5566 in 1830, to about 9000 at the present time. Clarksville, below Nashville, is a thriving little town. Franklin, to the south of Nashville, is a busy town, with 1500 inhabitants, who carry on some branches of mechanical and manufacturing industry pretty extensively. :k u'i 152 NORTH AMERICA i'^ '> •■■ . ■ !■ 1 [^ 1" :::;•*;. . ,i,''i' -1 \i ■ .| Knoxville, having 2000 inhabitants, stands on the right bank of the Holston river, and was for some time the seat of govern- ment, and a place of considerable trade ; its commercial impor- tance, however, has of late much diminished. It contains the halls of East Tennessee college, a useful and flourishiag institu- tion. Thie other towns of this section, Blountville, Jonesboro', Rogersviile, and Maryville, n' little villages of 590 or 600 inhabitants each. In the southern part of the state, Winchester, Fayetteviile, at the head of navigation on the Elk river, and Pulaski, are thriving little towns. Columbia, on the Duck river, is one of the most flourishing towns in the state : it is the seat of Jackson college. Murfreesboro, for some time the capital of the state, is pleasantly situated in a very rich and highly cultivated district ; Bolivar, at the head of navigation, on the Hatchee, a very growing and busy town ; Randolph, on the second Chickasaw Bluff, below the mouth of the Big Hatchee river, with a good harbour for steam-boats in all stages of the water, and conveniently placed for the outlet of a productive region ; and Memphis, with 2000 inhabitants, at the fourth Chickasaw Bluff, with one of the best sites for a commercial emporium on the Mississippi, are all small towns, but of growing business and importance. The Chickasaw Bluffs, or points where the river-hills reach the river, presenting sites above the reach of the floods, are four in number ; the first, being below the mouth of the Forked Deer river, is the site of Ashport ; the second, that of Randolph ; the third, 18 miles below, is not yet occupied ; the fourth is the site of Memphis. The latter is 30 feet above the highest floods, and its base is washed by the river for a distance of three miles, while a bed of sand-stone, the only known stratum of rocks be- low the Ohio, juts into the stream and forms a convenient land- ing. From the Ohio to Vicksburg, a distance of 650 miles, it is the only site for a great commercial mart on either bank of the Mississippi. STATE OF MICHIGAN. The country to which the name of Michigan has been usually applied, is a large peninsula, with its base resting upon the states of Ohio and Indiana, and bounded on the east and north-east by Lake Huron for a distance of 250 miles, and having Lake Michigan for its western boundary, an extent of 260 miles. It is in length about 288, and in breadth at the widest part 190 miles : its area being .38,000 square miles. MICHIGAiN. 153 Michigan, however, comprises without her bounds another and entirely distinct peninsula, forming a part of the region nominally attached to her while under a territorial government, and added permanently to her territory on her admission as a member of the American confederacy. It is bounded on the north by Lake Superior ; on the east by St. Mary's river ; on the south by Lakes Huron and Michigan : and south-west by the Mcnnomonie and Mon-real rivers; the latter emptying into Lake Superior, and the former into Green Bay : it is in length from east to west, about 320 miles ; and in breadth it varies from 160 to 30 or 40 miles; the area is proba- bly about 2*2,000 square miles ; making the area of the whole state about 60,000 miles. The northern peninsula is but little known, having been ex- plored only by hunters and trappers : the surface is said to be more irregular than that of the southern section, and also much less suited for agricultural purposes, but it will nevertheless doubtless become of importance on account of the large bodies of pine timber contained in various parts ; and also from the valuable fisheries on the shores of Lake Superior, white fish being taken in great abundance. The rivers are numerous and flow mostly into Lake Superior ; they are in general short in their length of course, and much broken by falls and rapids. The shores of the lake are mostly low, and but little indented by bays and harbours ; and as the prevailing winds are from the north-west, and sweep with great fury over the wide unsheltered expanse of the lake, navigation is more stormy and dangerous than along the Canada shore. The native inhabitants of this region are some bands of the Chippeways, on the shores of Lake Superior, and Mennomonies, on Green Bay ; the whole numbering only about 1400 or 1500. The only settlement in this region is the village of St. Mary's, at Fort Brady on the St. Mary's river ; it contains a population of 800, principally half-breeds and French. St. Mary's river, the outlet of the waters of Lake Superior, is about 50 miles in length, with a fall of 22 feet in half a mile, which prevents large vessels from entering Lake Superior, although canoes and boats of small draught ascend and descend the rapids. An act authorising the construction of a ship canal around these rapids has lately passed the legislature of Michigan. The southern peninsula, or Michigan proper, is generally a level country, having no elevations that can properly be called hills ; the centre of the peninsula being a table-land, elevated, however, but a few feet above the level of the lakes. The pjninsula abounds in rivers : none of these have much 'yi 154 NORTH AMERICA. w- extent of course, and but few of them are navigable to any con* siderable distance inland. Grand river is the largest : it empties into Lake Michigan : its whole course is about 150 miles, and it is navigable 50 miles from the lake to the rapids for sloops and steam-boats. The St. Joseph's river is a considerable stream, and empties into Lake Michigan at the south-west angle of the territory. It is, like Grand river, navigable for large sloops to the rapids. The other considerable streams which flow into Lake Michi- gan are the Kalamazoo, Grand, Maskegon, Pentwater, .Manistic, and Aux Betsies. Those which flow into Lake Erie are the Raisin and Huron rivers. The Clinton is the only considerable river which falls into Lake St. Clair. The Belle, and Black, or Du- lude, fall into St. Clair river. The Saginaw, a considcable and important river, running northward, falls into Saginaw bay, which is a part of Lake Huron. The eastern parts of this territory, from various circumstances, became first settled. Within the few last years a great mass of emigrants have begun to spread themselves over this fine and fertile country. Situated, as it is, between the west, the south, and the east, with greater facilities for extensive inland water communication than any other country on the globe, with a fer- tile soil, of which millions of acres are fit for the plough, with a healthful climate, and with a concurrence of circumstances, inviting northern population, the inhabitants are increasing, and wealth accumulates with a rapidity that may vie with any of the neighbouring states. Wheat, Indian-corn, oats, barley, buckwheat, potatoes, apples, pears, plums, cherries, and peaches, are raised easily and in abundance. It is a country more favourable to cultivated grasses than most other regions of the western country. In short, it is peculiarly fitted for northern farmers. No inland country, according to its age, population, and circumstances, has a greater trade. A number of steam-boats and lake-vessels are con- stantly plying in this trade, which is with Detroit, Chicago, and Ohio. The legislative power is vested in a senate and house of repre- sentatives, styled the legislature ; the former are chosen for the term of two years, and the latter annually. The governor and lieutenant-governor are chosen by the people, and hold office for the term of two years. The judges are appointed by the gover- nor, with the consent of the senate, the term of office being seven years. Suffiage is universal. The constitution provides that neither slavery nor involuntary servitude shall ever be introduced into the state, except for the punishment of crimes ; and that no MICHIGAN. 155 lottery shall be authorised by the state, nor shall the sale of lot' tery tickets be allowed. It is also a provision of the constitution, that the legislature shall encourage by all suitable means the promotion of intellect tual, scientific, and agricultural improvement ; shall provide for a system of common schools, by which a school shall be kept up and supported in each school district at least three months in every year ; and, as soon as the circumstances of the state will permit, shall provide for the establishment of libraries, one at least in each township. In 1839 there were 34,000 children in the common schools of Michigan. The state of Michigan is proceediHg with great activity in the prosecution of works of internal improvement. About 2000 miles of canals and rail-roads are projected, at an estimated expense of more than 14,000,000 dollars. In 1610, the population amounted to 4762; in 1820, it was 8896; in 1830, exclusive of the counties now belonging to Wisconsin, 28,004; and in 1838, 175,169; and at present is estimated at 200,000. The city of Detroit, the principal place in Michigan, is situ- ated on the western shore of Detroit river, which unites Lake Erie and St. Clair. Few places can be more admirably situated for a commercial city, and few have a more solid promise of per- manent prosperity. The city is regularly laid out and neatly buik, and during the last five or six years its business and popu- lation have increased commensurately with the growth of the fertile country in its rear. In 1830, the number of the inhabit- ants was 2222 ; they are now supposed to amount to 10,000. There are here a number of churches, of which the largest and most striking is the Roman Catholic cathedral; a state- house, academy, and county buildings. Detroit is the dep6t of all the country on the upper lakes, and there are 16 or 18 large steam-boats plying between this port and Chicago and Buffalo. Among the small towns springing up in Michigan are Palmer^ Anne Arbour, St. Joseph, Grand Rapids, and Marshall ; also, Adrian and Monroe; the latter is about two miles from the mouth of the river Raisin, and is accessible to steam-boats. It contains several saw and grist-mills, a woollen manufactory, and an iron foundery. The rivers afford a number of mill-seats, with a plentiful supply of water. The population is about 3000. At the head of St. Clair river, at the outlet of Lake Huron, on a commanding position, stands Fort Gratiot, a United States' mili- tary post; Mackinaw is on Michillimackinac island, at the entrance of Lake Michigan. 'ilKl i' ■ ■i: \ ■ 4.. ■'■-,''■ m 150 NORTH AMEUICA. r . lit < Hit.- 1: STATE OF INDIANA. The state of Indiana is bounded on the north by Michigan and Lake Michigan ; east by Ohio ; south by the Ohio rivor, which separates it from Kentucky ; and west by Illinois, from which it is separated in part by the Wabash river. The mean length is about 260, and mean breadth 140 miles; area about 36,400 square miles. The Ohio river flows along the southern extremity of this state for upwards of 350 miles, estimated by the course of the stream. The principal river besides the Ohio, is the Wabash, with its numerous branches. The Tippecanoe, from the north, and the White and Patoka rivers, from the east, are its princi* pal tributaries. The White river is a valuable channel for trade, as it drains the central part of the state, and has several large confluents, of which its east and west forks are the principal. The Maumee on the east, the Kankakee on the west, and the St. Joseph of Lake Michigan, are the other chief rivers. There are no mountains in Indiana ; the country, however, is more hilly than Illinois, particularly towards the Ohio river. A range of hills, called the Knobs, extends from the falls of the Ohio to the Wabash, in a south-west direction, which in many places produce a broken and uneven surface. North of these hills lie the Flat Woods, 70 miles wide. Bordering on all the principal streams, except the Ohio, there are strips of bottom and prairie land ; both together, from three to six miles in width. Between the Wabash and Lake Michigan, the country is mostly level, abounding alternately with wood-lands, prairies, lakes, and swamps. The agricultural exports are beef, pork, cattle, horses, swine, Indian-corn, hemp, tobacco, &c. ; ginseng, bees'-wax, feathers, and whiskey, are also exported, but we have no means of esti- mating the value of the trade. There are some grist and saw- mills, a few iron furnaces, and some salt-works, but the manu- facturing industry is inconsiderable. The mineral resources of Indiana have been little attended to, and our knowledge of some of them is but imperfect. Coal, iron, lime, salt, &;c., are, however, known to abounds Indiana has expended nearly 4,000,000 dollars in internal improvements. The principal work is the Wabash canal, reach- ing from Manhattan, at the mouth of the Maumee river, to Terre Haute, on the Wabash, 310 miles; thence to Evansville, on the Ohio river. The whole length of this canal will be 444 miles. There are several other canals and rail-roads also in progress. INDIANA. 157 ended Coal, ternal reach- Terre »n the miles, •gress. The National road passes from the Ohio line through Indianapo* lis, but is not yet completed. The same provision has been made hy congress for the sup- port of common schools, that has been made in the other new states, but no etflcient system of general education has yet been adopted : the constitution mo^es it " the duty of the general assembly, as soon as circumstances shall permit, to provide by law for a general system of education, ascending in a regular gradation, from township schools to a state university, wherein tuition shall be gratis, and equally open to all." There are four colleges in the state, and academies have been established in several of the counties. The Methodists and Baptists are the prevailing religious sects ; the Presbyterians and Friends are numerous, and there are Roman Catholics, Episcopalians, &c. POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. INCREASK. In 1800 5,641 1810 24,520 1820 147,178 1830 343,031 From 1800 to 1810 18,879 1810 to 1820 122,658 1820 to 1830 195,853 SLAVES. 133 , 237 190 Of the above population of 1830, there were, white males, 176,513; white females, 161,507 ; deaf and dumb, 104 ; blind, 72 ; aliens, 280. Total whites, 338,020. Free coloured males, 1792 ; females, 1770. Total, 3562. The current of immigration has flowed steadily into Indiana during the last 15 years, and its population has accordingly increased with gree * rapidity : it is estimated at present to be not less than 600,000. Most of the inhabitants are from Ohio, and the middle and northern states ; but there are many im- migrants from Kentucky and Virginia, as well as from foreign countries. Indianapolis, the capital of the state, stands on a fine plain near the White river, and is laid out with much taste and regu- larity ; the spacious streets are lined with neat houses, and the public buildings are handsome structures. There are five churches, a state-house, court-house, governor's house, &c. The inhabitants are about 3000. Lawrenceburg, on the Ohio, just below the mouth of the Whitewater, carries on an extensive trade, but its site is so low that it is subject to inundation during very high stages of the water. Madison is a flourishing town, pleasantly situated, 60 miles below Lawrenceburg, with 6000 inhabitants. Vevay is a little village, settled by a Swiss colony. .TefTersonville, opposite Louisville, is a thriving town ; it contains the state prison. New 14 t1:>1 n., .. wi' IAS NORTH AM URIC A Albany, below the falls of the Ohio, is tho largest town in the Ntnto, nnd contains about 5000 inhabitants. New Harmony, on tho Wabash, was rounded by the Gorman sect called Ilarmonitos, under the direction of Mr. Kapp; in 18^4, it was bought by Mr. Owen of Lanark, who attempted to put in operation here his new social system ; the scheme failed, and his followers wcro dispersed, but the village is now a flour- ishing place in other hands. Vincennes, higher up the river, is an old French settlement, formed in the beginning of the last century. Population obout 2000. Terre Haute, Lafayette, and Logansport, are young but growing centres of trade. Population about 2000 each. Uich* mond, on the National road, near the Ohio state line, is also a prosperous little town. Michigan city, founded on the lake of that name in 1833, now contains upwards of 2000 inhabitants, and carries on a considerable trade. ;i' ■ STATE OF ILLINOIS. This fertile and improving state is bounded north by Wiscon- sin Territory, east by Michigan and Indiana, south by Kentucky, and \'"st by the state of Missouri and Wisconsin Territory. Its medium length is about 350 mites, and medium breadth about 170; the area being near 55,000 square miles. The Mississippi, Ohio, and Wabash, form about two-thirds of the whole boundary of this state. The other most consider- able rivers are tho Illinois, Kaskaskia, Muddy, Saline, Little Wabash, Spoon, Rock, Sangamon, Embarras, Fox, Des Plaines, &c. The southern and middle parts of the state are for the most part level. The north-western section is a hilly, broken country, though there are no high mountains. The climate resembles that of Indiana and Ohio. The soil is generally very fertile, and yields abundant harvests. Indian-corn is the staple production of the state. Wheat is also raised in large quantities; and rye, hemp, tobacco, and some cotton, with the castor-oil bean, are also among the pro- ducts of Illinois. Large herls of cattle are kept with little trou- ble, and great numbers are driven out of the state, or sent down the river in flat-boats. Thousands of hogs are raised with little attention or expense, and pork is largely exported. Coal, salt, and lime, iron, lead, and copper, are among the known mineral productions of Illinois. Coal is very abundant in many quarters, and is considerably worked. Lead is found requi chan U li Ofl heat is ;o, and :je pro- lie trou- It down Ith little jng the jundant found ILLINOIS. 160 in the nurlh*\vf!>tuni cunitT of the state in exhuutitleHti (quantities : the lead-diggings extend iVom the Wisconsin to Keck river. The IndiuiiH and French had boon long accustomed to procure the ore, but it was not until IS'^2 that the process of separating the nietul wus begiui to bo carried on here. Since that time, loud to the amount of probably 85,0UU,0()0 pounds has been made. The business for several years was overdone, but is now reviving, in 1838, the quantity of lead smelted was above 1U,0UU,0UU pounds. This statement includes the produce of Wisconsin Territory us well us of Illinois. Some salt is made near Shaw- ncetown; near Danville, on the Little Vermillion; and near Brownvillc, on Muddy creek. The springs are owned by tho state, and leased to tho manufacturers. The same provision has been made by congress for the sup- port of public schools in this as in tho other new states, by the appropriation of certain proportions of the public land to this purpose. But the scattered state of the population has as yet prevented a general system of public education from being car- ried into operation. There are four colleges and several respect- able academies in the state. The Methodists and Baptists ure the most numerous religious sects, and there are many Presby- terians, Roman Catholics, &c. An important public work has been commenced in this state, which will cllcct the junction of the Mississippi and Lake Michi- gan : the Illinois and Chicago canal, extending from Chicago on tho lake to a point below the rapids of tho Illinois, a distance of about 100 miles, is in progress. Five extensive ruil-rouds to cross the state in various directions, and amounting altogether to upwards of 1100 miles, have been undertaken: these are to be executed by the state; and appropriations have been made to carry them on. Several smaller rail-roads, projected by indi- vidual enterprise, are in progress. The population of Illinois has increased with the same amaz- ing rapidity as that of the neighbouring states. The constitutioki ])rovides that neither slavery nor involuntary servitude shall hereafter be introduced into the state, otherwise than for the pun- ishment of crimes ; and as negroes coming into the state are required to give bonds with security, that they will not become chargeable as paupers, there are few blacks. POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. In 1810 12,282 increase. 1820 55,211 From 1810 to 1820 42,92!) 1830 157,455 1820 to 1830 102,244 Of the above population of 1830, there were, while males. ;'•:■ 160 NORTH AMERICA. J,- yv .1 82,202 ; white females, 72,974 ; deaf and dumb, 64; blind, 36, aliens, 447 ; total whites, 155,176 ; blacks, 2384, including 747 indented coloured servants. The most thriving town in Illinois, and the principal dep6t of the state, is Chicago, on Lake Michigan. The canal now in progress from this place to the Illinois river, when completed will bring a vast increase of trade to this city. An artificial harbour has been made by the construction of piers, which, extending some distance into the lake, prevent the accumulation of sand on the bar. Chicago has become within a few years the centre of a large and growing trade : numerous steam-boats, ships, brigs, and other vessels, are constantly arriving with goods, emigrants, &c., and departing with the produce of the country. Population, from 6000 to 8000. Vandalia, the late capital of the state, is a small town, with a population of about 500 inhabitants, on the west bank of the Kas- kaskia river, about 80 miles north-east of St. Louis. The most commercial place in this state on the Mississippi ^iver is Alton, situated two miles and a half above the mouth of the Missouri, and 18 below that of the Illinois. It is the western dep6t for the produce of Illinois. Possessing a fine, commodious harbour, with an excellent landing for steam-boats, Alton has become the centre of an active and daily growing trade. Popu- lation, from 3000 to 4000. Upper Alton, in the rear of Alton, and about three miles distant, is the seat of ShurtlefF college and a theological seminary. Edwardsville is a neat and thriving village, to the north of Alton. Peoria is beautifully situated at the foot of the lake of that name, and on the Illinois river. It contains about 2000 inhabitants. Ottawa, above the rapids, and at the western termination of the Illinois and Michigan canal, is also a flourishing village, with deep water and a good landing. Cahokia and Kaskaskia are old French villages on the Ameri- can bottom, with not more than 500 to 600 inhabitants, most of whom are French. Springfield, near the centre of the state, on the border of a beautiful prairie, and surrounded by one of the most fertile tracts in the western country, has been chosen by the legislature to be the capital afler the year 1839: a handsome state-house is here erected. Population, 3000. Jacksonville, further west, in the midst of a beautifully undu- lating and now cultivated prairie, is a busy, flourishing town, with about 3000 inhabitants. On the Mississippi, above the Illinois, Quincy and Stephenson, at the mouth of Rock river, are favourably situated : the former ;ii MISSUUKI, IGl has greatly increased within the last two or three years. Higher up, a few miles fronn the mouth of Fever river, is Galena, a pros- perous town in the lead district, with about 3000 inhabitants. Numerous steam-boats are constantly arriving at and departing from this place. of undu- town, STATE OF MISSOURI. This state is bounded north by Iowa Territory ; west by the Indian Territory ; east by the Mississippi river, which separates it from Illinois, Kentucky, and Tennessee; and south by the state of Arkansas. Its length is about 260 miles, and medium breadth 230, the area being near 64,000 square miles. Besides the great rivers Mississippi and Missouri, which bound it on the east and west, this state is watered by various others of considerable magnitude. The largest are the Osage, Grand, Salt, Chariton, Gasconade, Maramec, Big Black, and St. Francis. Much of the surface in the central portion of the section south of the Missouri is mountainous, or rather hilly, being traversed in ditTerent directions by the chains of the Ozark mountains. Between the Osage and Missouri., and north of the latter, the country is undulating and agreeably diversified ; while in the south-east, between the Big Black river and the Mississippi, the whole tract, with the exception of a narrow strip on the border of the latter, is a low, inundated morass, forming a portion of the great swamp of which the principal part is in the state of Arkansas. The lands bordering on the Missouri and some of the other rivers, are exceedingly rich. A portion of the state is, however, unfit for cultivation ; but this part of it is rich in mineral trea- sures. The land is either very fertile or very poor ; it is either bottom land or cliff, either prairie or barren : there is very little of an intermediate quality. The climate is remarkably serene and temperate, and very favourable to health. Missouri is admirably adapted for a grazing country, and vast herds of cattle, horses, and swine are raised : beef, pork, tallow, hides, and live stock, constitute important articles of export. In 1838 the value of horses and mules sent to the cotton-growing states, was 150,000 dollars. Cotton is raised in the southern part of the state, but not in considerable quantities ; tobacco is more extensively grown, and hemp, wheat, Indian-corn, and the other grains, are cultivated with success. Indian-corn, flour, lead, furs, buffalo-skins and tongues, and lumber, constitute, with the articles before mentioned, the exports of Missouri. 14* li ■- 162 NORTH AMERICA. i. The most remarkable feature in Missouri is its lead^mines, which are estimated to cover an area of about 3000 square miles. The centre of the lead-mine district is about 70 miles south-west from St. Louis, and the principal diggings are included in an extent of 30 miles in one direction by 15 in another. The lead- ore is found in detached masses, and not in veins. The business of mining is, consequently, very uncertain. About 7,000,000 pounds of lead are annually made. In this region are likewise ibund copper, zinc, manganese, antimony, calamine, cobalt, &c. These lead-mines were wrought by the French 100 years ago. Numerous shot-factories are established along the high, rocky bluffs of the Mississippi, which renders the erection of towers unnecessary. Iron is found in inexhaustible quantities. The Pilot Knob, 600 feet high, and the Iron Mountain, 350 feet high, are immense masses of almost pure iron, and surpass every thing of the kind found in any other part of the world. Coal also abounds, particularly along the Missouri, and aluminous and nitrous earth, marble, salt-springs, sulphuretted and thermal waters, &c., occur. There are six colleges in the state. In 1839 the legislature made liberal provision for the establishment of common schools. The Baptists and Methodists are the most numerous sects ; the Presbyterians and Roman Catholics are also pretty numerous, and there are some Episcopalians. POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. TOTAL. SLATES. 1810 (including Arkansas) 20,845 3,011 1820 66,586 10,222 1830 140,455 25,091 1836 244,208 40,540 Of the foregoing population of 1830, there were, white males, 61,405; white females, 53,390 ; deaf and dumb, 27 ; blind, 27 : total whites, 1 14,795. Free coloured, 569 ; slaves, 25,091 : total, 140,455. St. Louis is the commercial capital of Missouri, and the largest town West of the Mississippi. It is built on two banks : the first, not much raised above the level of the river, contains two narrow streets running parallel with its cou rse ; and the second or higher bank, which spreads out into a wide plain in the rear, comprises the rest of the city. The upper part is well laid out with spacious and regular streets. St. Louis was founded in 1764, but it con- tinued to be an inconsiderable village while the country remained in the hands of the Spanish and French. It is the emporium of the Upper Missouri and Mississippi, and is increasing rapidly in importance. The population is now chiefly composed of Ameri- cans, but there are many French, with some Germans and Mis of; torj soul 55,f n the off! boa I andl the thrc andl /fltffii ARKANSAS. 163 Spaniards. There are eight Protestant churches and a Roman Catholic cathedral. In the vicinity are an United States' arsenal and Jefferson barracks, extensive stone buildings with accommo- dations for 600 or 700 men. In 1830 it contained 5852 inhabit- ants, and now about 25,000. St. Charles, 20 miles above the mouth of the Missouri, antl the same distance north-west from St. Louis, is a pleasant village, containing 2000 inhabitants, of whom about one-third are of French descent ; it consists of one long street, on which are many handsome buildings. St. Charles was for a number of years the capital of the state. Jefferson city, on the south side of the Missouri river, and near the centre of the state, is the capital of Missouri ; it contains the state-house and a penitentiary : its site is not a fortunate selection, and it has not in consequence prospered. Higher up the stream are the villages of Franklin, Boonville, Keytesville, Lexington, and Liberty. Herculaneum, 30 miles below St. Louis, is a small town, which contains numerous shot-works, and serves as one of the ports of the lead district. St. Genevieve is another old French village, built on a high alluvial bank whicli the river is now washing away. Cape Girardeau, situated on a high bluff' in the midst of a rich district, is the dep6t of the southern part of the state. New Madrid is an inconsiderable village, on a high alluvial bank, which, like that of St. Genevieve, has been mostly carried away by the river. The village also suffered from the earthquake of 1811. i^^ ^! ^vr STATE OF ARKANSAS. Arkansas is bounded on the north by Missouri ; east by the Mississippi river, which separates it from Tennessee and the state of Mississippi ; south by Louisiana, and west by the Indian terri- tory and the northern part of Texas. Its length, from north to south, is 245 miles, and mean breadth about 212 ; its area is 55,000 square miles. The principal river is the Arkansas, which flows down from the Rocky mountains. Its course is nearly through the centre of the state from west to east ; and it affords at all times steam- boat navigation to Little Rock, 300 miles from the Mississippi, and occasionally to Fort Gibson, nearly 350 miles higher up ; the other important streams are the Red river, (which flows through the south-west angle of the state,) St. Francis, While, and Washita rivers. 164 NORTH AMERICA \'. * ^ Arkansas has considerable advantages for commerce ; nearly every part of it has a direct and easy communication with New Orleans, the great emporium of trade for the whole Mississippi valley. The surface of the country exhibits much variety. In the' eastern portion, along the Mississippi river, it is level, and often overflown by that noble river and its large cc ifluents, which have their course through this territory. In the central part it is undu- lating and broken, and in the western section 't is traversed by the Ozark mountains, which are estimafe-l t( attain an altitude of from 1500 to 2000 feet above the ocean. The soil is of all qualities, from the most productive to the most sterile : much of it is of the latter description. It has, how- ever, a sufficient amount of excellent land to enable it to become a rich and populous state. Of the products of Arkansas, cotton is the staple ; corn and sweet potatoes thrive well j wheat, and other small grains, have not been cultivated to a great extent ; peaches are remarkably fine ; apples do not succeed, except on the elevated parts of the state, at a distance from the Mississippi. The wild fruits, grapes, plums, &c., are abundant. The hot or warm springs are among the most interesting curiosities of the country ; they exist in great numbers. One of them emits a vast quantity of water : they are remarkably limpid and pure, and are used by the people who resort there for health, for culinary purposes. During the spring floods of the Washita, a steam-hoat can approach within 30 miles of them. Arkansas formed a part of Louisiana, and afterwards of Mis- souri Territory, until 1819, when it received a separate territorial government, and in 1836 it became an independent state. The legislature, styled the General Assembly, consists of a senate chosen for the term of four years, and a house of representatives elected biennially ; the general assembly meets every two years. The governor holds oflice for the term of four years. The superior judges are appointed by the general assembly, those of the supreme court holding office for eight, and those of the circuit courts for four years. Every white male citizen of the age of 21 years, who has resided within the state during the six months preceding the elec- tion, has the right of suffrage. Votes are given viva voce. In the prosecution of slaves for crimes, it is provided that they shall have an impartial jury, and slaves convicted of a capital oflience shall suff*er the same degree of punishment as free whites, and no other. SOI soil emj thol nur pof St. Mol Mel par crol In WISCONSIN. 165 POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. TOTAL. SLATU. In 1800 1,052 1820 14,273 1,617 1830 30,388 4fil6 1835 58,134 9,629 This state being as yet but thinly settled, the towns are few in number, and of limited population. The capital, Little Rock, is situated on the Arkansas river, about 300 miles from the Missis- sippi. The site is on a high rocky bluff on the right bank of the river ; some of the other settlements are, on the Arkansas, Lewisburg, Scotia, Ozark, and Van Buren ; Fayetteville, in the north-west corner of the state ; Batesville, on White river ; Greenock, Helena, and Columbia, on the Mississippi ; Washing- ton, in the south-west part of the state near to, and Fulton on, Red river : these are the most important, but they are all as yet mere villages. '(. WISCONSIN TERRITORY. This territory was erected into a separate gQvernment in 1836, and for two years afterwards included Iowa within its limits. It stretches from the Mississippi river on the west to Lake Michigan on the east, and from the northern boundary of the Union to the states of Missouri and Illinois on the south ; it is in length near 600 miles, and from 100 to 200 miles in breadth ; containing probably an area of 100,000 square miles. Population, 25,000. A large portion of this territory is but imperfectly known, and is for the most part still in the occupancy of the Indians. JLi is settled by a white population only 'along a part of its southern and eastern border : its great mineral resources, fertile soil, and fine climate, are, however, attracting such numerous emigrants, that it is probable a few years only will elapse before those portions of the territory most suitable for settlement will number many towns and villages, and be covered with a dense population. The principal rivers are the Mississippi and its tributaries, the St. Croix, Chippeway, Wisconsin, Rock river, &c.; the St. Louis, Montreal, and other streams, flowing into Lake Superior ; the Mennomonie and Fox rivers of Green Bay, and others. In some parts of the territory the soil is very fertile, and produces large crops of the various grains common to this section of the Union. Ill the vicinity of Lake Michigan the water-courses, ponds, {.t V ■ 4 ■l! il -, -^r.-''^- J lti6 NORTH AMERICA. r ■ * ^t and murshcs, are covered witli wild rice, which constitutes a considerable part of the food of the Indians. Wisconsin is rich in minerals : lead is found in great abun- dance, and also copper and iron. The lead region comprises a portion of the richest lead deposits in the world : it extends on the east side of the Mississippi from the Wisconsin to the Rock river, and on the west it connects with the lead region of Iowa. Lead mining is carried on extensively, and that of copper is about to be commenced. Fort Winnebago, a United States' garrison, stands at the port- age between the Wisconsin and Fox rivers ; tho waters of the two streams here approach so close to each other, and are so nearly on a level, that boats, in wet seasons, have been floated from one to the olhcr. A canal is in progress of construction for the purpose of connecting ihese rivers. Steam-boats have ascended the Wisconsin to tho portage. The route in this direc- tion between the lakes and th. Mississippi ri^or, will no doubt attain great commercial importance. In the vicinity of Green Bay are the thriving villages of Qiy^::&x Bay, Navarino, and De Pierre. The former has a tine harbour, and is already a place of considerable business : it contains a bank, a land-office, a number of stores, and several hotels. Tho principal settlements on the Mississippi, are Prairie du Chien, ('assville, &c. ; the former is about five miles above the mouth oi ;hc Wisconsin river : it is situated on a beautiful prairie, and has bcfin long inhabited, mostly by French traders and their descendants, half-breeds, &c. Cassville, some distance south of the Wisconsin river, is a small town, and but lately settled, as are also Belmont, Mineral Point, and Dodgeville : these are at various distances east of the Mississippi, and between it and Lake Michigan : they are situated in the midst of a rich mining district, and will gradually improve as the country around them fills up with population. Madison city, the capital of Wisconsin territory, was laid out a short time ago : it contains already some public buildings, two hotels, and 40 or 50 dwellings. Milwaukie, on the west side of Lake Michigan, is the most important town in the territory ; it contains 3000 inhabitants, several churches, hotels, a bank, and a numljer of stores : it is a place of considerable trade, and has the best harbour on the west side of the lake between Chicago and Green Bay. A rail-road is about to be constructed from this place, westward through the city of the Four Lakes, Dodgeville, Mineral Point, and Belmont, to the Mississippi river. A canal to Rock River has been lately commenced from this city. The aborigines in Wisconsin are the Chippeways, Mennomo- bet witi rail sinJ coni hur besl tier the I «nc tie IOWA. 167 nies, and Stockbridge Indians : the latter, from New York, are settled in the vicinity of Green Bay. Among these tribes, the American Board of Foreign Missions has a number of missiona- ries in difterent parts of the territory. ry5 i* and IOWA TERRITORY. m Iowa is a recently formed territory : it comprises the country lying between the Mississippi and MisGcuri rivers on the one hand, and the state of Missouri and British America on the other ; its greatest length is not less than 800 miles, varying in breadth from 250 to 400, with an area of at least 200,000 squarfe miles. Like the adjoining territory of Wisconsin, but a small part has heen explored by white men, and much of it is still inhabited by the Indians. From the Des Moines to a short distance above the Wisconsin river, it has been laid off in counties, and is more or less settled. This region constitutes the south-eastern section of the territory, and is a beautiful, fertile, healthful country, interspersed with timber land and prairie, and abounding in springs and mill- streams. The principal rivers of Iowa, besides the Mississippi and Mis- souri, which bound it on the east and west, are the St. Peter's, Upper Iowa, Turkey, Iowa, and Des Moines : these all flow into the Mississippi ; the James, Sioux, and Little Sioux, are the chief tributaries of the Missouri in this region. The Red river of the north, whose head branches interlock with the St. Peter's, flows into the British Territory, and empties into Lake Winni- peg : a short portage of a mile in length, between the waters of this stream and the St. Peter's, is the only impediment to a con- tinuous navigation from Hudson's Bay to the Gkilf of Mexico. The products of the soil are the same as those of the neigh- bouring states : wheat, corn, rye, oats, and potatoes, all grow with great luxuriance, and are of excellent quality. The mine- ral region of Iowa appears to be connected with that of Wiscon- sin, and is equally rich in metal. The limits of the country containing the leadoreareunknovvn, but it probably extends for hundreds of miles towards, and into the state of Missouri; besides lead, copper, iron, and coal are known to abound. Few portions of the United States have excited so much atten- tion as Iowa ; it is settling more rapidly than any other part of the western country with enterprising and industrious inhabitants, and will in a very few years have a sufficient population to enti- tle it to rank as a state. A numbor of towns have been laid I I 'f: 4' ■ii ' ■ i 'J. ■■ 1G8 NORTH AMERICA. :.[ it out ; they are all yet small : a few of those, however, situated on the Mississippi, are increasing very fast. Burlington is the capital of the territory, hut Dubuque is the largest town. The latter contains a land-olfice, three churches, a lyceum, a bank, four hotels, a printing-office, and a number of stores : the inhabitants are probably about 3000 in number. This place is in the centre of the mining district of Iowa, and the finest lead-mines in the Unnitcd States are those worked in its vicinity. Peru, Davenport, Bloomington, Fort Madison, and Montrose, are the other principal towns. The site of Iowa city, on the river of the same name, intended for the capital of the territory, has been lately surveyed. Iowa was erected into a separate territorial government by act of congress in June 1838 ; the commencement of the govern- ment dated from the 4th of the succeeding July. According to a census taken in 1838, the population was upwards of 22,000, and is now at least 30,000. The principal Indian tribes in this territory are the Sioux, Winnebagoes, Sacs, toxes, and Assini- boins, with a few Chippeways, Ottawas, and Pottawatomies, numbering perhaps altogether from 30,000 to 35,000 individuals. Fort Snelling, a few miles below the falls of St, Anthony, and situated on the point of land between the Mississippi and St. Peter's rivers, is the most remote military post in this quarter, occupied by the troops of the United States. The village of Pembina, the southernmost settlement of lord Selkirk's colony, falls within the limits of Iowa ; it is situated on the banks of the Red river of Lake Winnipeg. The inhabitants are mostly Scotch highlanders and Swiss. • INDIAN TERRITORY. The Indian territory is the country assigned by the govern- ment of the United States for the future residence of the Indians, many of whom have emigrated from the south-eastern parts of the Union, and numbers are preparing to take up their residence in it. It is about 600 miles in extent from north to south in the eastern, and in the western part about 300 ; and from east lO west, immediately beyond Arkansas, it is about 320; but, west- ward of the central and northern parts of Missouri, it is full 600 miles in breadth. It contains an area of about 240,000 square miles. A belt of about 200 miles of the most eastern pari of this region, and adjoining the states of Arkansas and Missouri, is f&\ fer lett r r'm dire Alis in ii hill) parti Kian TJ pleas the cj theM saline defect as has tie GO stock, fires h coverei scythe. This grain, the Stat admira descripi At th the Indi have en remaind There the Miss that stre purpose manentli TheC are the n tribes in fenced am siderable «mpng th 15,000 do J. ■•*-•■. k INDIAN TERRITORY. 109 etn- lans, ts of lence the 3t .J irest- 600 buare this kri, is favourable for settlement : the soil is affirmed to be generally very fertile, and it is watered by numerous rivers, creeks, and rivu- lets, none of which, however, are suital)Io for navigation. The chief streams are the Red, Arkansas, Kanzas, and Plutto rivers, with their numerous tributaries : they How in an eastern direction from the Rocky Mountains towards the Missouri and Mississippi rivers, of which they are all branches. The con try, in its general character, is high and undulating, rather levci tiian hilly ; though some portions, particularly in the south-eastern parts, are entitled to the latter appellation, where it is traversed by several low ranges of the Ozark Mountains, here termed the Kiameche hills. The atmosphere is salubrious, and the climate remarkably pleasant ; resembling in those respects the country inhabited by the chief part of the Indians who have emigrated from the east of the Mississippi. Here are coal, some lead and iron ore, and many saline springs, suitable for manufacturing salt. The most serious defect is a want of timber, but it is one which time will remedy, as has been demonstrated by the rapid growth of timber in prai- rie countries which have been settled ; where the grazing of stock, by diminishing the quantity of grass, renders the annual fires less destructive to the growth of wood : the prairies are covered with grass, much of which is of suitable length for the scythe. This country will produce, it is believed, all the varieties of grain, vegetables, and agricultural products, which are raised in the states of the same latitude east of the Mississippi. It is also admirably adapted for the raising of domestic animals of every description. At the beginning of the present year, (1840,) the population of the Indian territory amounted to 95,000 Indians, 75,000 of whom have emigrated from the states east of the Mississippi river. The remainder appertain to tribes long resident in this region. There are also 25,000 Indians, of various tribes, now east of the Mississippi river, under treaty stipulations to remove west of that stream : many of them are making preparations for this purpose ; and the whole, no doubt, will, in a lew years, be per- manently settled in the territory assigned them. The Choctaws, Creeks, Cherokees, Chickasaws, and Shawnees, are the most advanced towards civilization of any of the Indian tribes in this quarter. They have generally good houses, well- fenced and well-tilled fields, and own horses and cattle to a con- siderable extent : they have also native mechanics and merchants «mpng them, of whom some of the Cherokees have from 6000 to 15,000 dollars capital ; and one of them owns a steam-boat, which 15 il 1 i i !•?'■■ 170 NORTH AMERICA. 1.1. hi runs between their country and New Orleans. I'hey likewise carry on spinning and weaving, and have some saw and jurist- mills and cotton-gins. They have also adopted un improved system of government: the Choctaws and ('reeks, in particular, have a written constitution; and the Ibrmer have introduced the trial by jury. There are several United States' military posts within the lim- its of the Indian Territory; these are all garrisoned, and have been erected chiefly with u view to prevent mutual encroach- ments on each other by the whites and Indians, and to preserve peace among the tribes themselves. Fort Towson is in the Choctaw country, about six miles north of Red river, and 50 miles west of the western boundary of the state of Arkansas: it was erected in the year 1831. Fort Gib- son, established in 1823, is on the east bank of the Neosho river, directly above where it empties into the Arkansas ; 5t is in the Cherokee country, and is the head of steam-boat navigation in this quarter. The emigrant Indians generally come up the Ar- kansas river to this place. Fort Cofiee, on the south bank of the Arkansas river, about 12 miles from the west boundary of the state of Arkansas, was established in 1825. Fort Leavenworth is on the west bank of the Missouri, about 25 miles above the mouth of the Kanzas river. It was established in 1827, and is the head quarters of the United States' drasjoons. This fort is within the limits of the territory assigned to the Kickapoos. Several of the missionary societies of the United States have exerted themselves in a most praiseworthy and laudable manner in teaching many of the Indian tribes the principles of the Chris- tian religion, with reading, writing, and the arts of civilized life ; and to their efforts chiefly may be ascribed the important changes that have taken place in the habits and condition o{ most of the emigrant Indians. The American board of foreign missions has stations and missionaries among the Choctaws, Creeks, and Cherokees ; and the Baptists and Methodists have stations, &c. among the Choc- taws, Cherokees, Ottawas, and Shawnees. The Creeks, Peorias, and Kanzas, have each a Methodist, and the Ottawas have a Baptist mission within their bounds. At the Shawnee station, under the care of the Baptists, there is a print- ing-press, from which have been issued school-books, and collec- tions of sacred poetry, in several Indian languages ; a monthly journal is also printed here in t.he Shawnee language, and the valuable Annual Register of Mr. M'Coy is likewise from this press. ing larges the southi coursd ThJ mon wholol MLSSUl'RI. 171 The I'awnces, OdntTcs, Omalms, Kunxay, and Ol arc the principal indijj;enous triUis in this region: these retain their ori- ginal savage habits of life, with little or no change. They hunt the butlhlo, and the sqirnvvs raise Indian-corn, beans, and piuiip- kins. In tin desert regions farther west, arc the roving bands of the Conianches, Kioways, and Fawnee Picts. They are skil- ful horsemen. Their arms are chiefly the bow and arrow, lance, war-ciub, and buckler ; and their habitations are moveable skin lodges, or tents. The great caravan road between Missouri and New Mexico crosses this region. MISSOURI TERRITORY. This terriiory is a vast wilderness, thinly inhabited only by different tribes of Indians, many of whom appear to have no fixed residence, but follow the migrations of the game from place to place. Missouri territory extends from north to south about 520 miles, and from east to west 600 miles ; and contains an area of probably 280,000 square miles : it is bounded on the north by the British possessions, south by the Indian territory, east by Iowa, and west by the territory of Oregon. The greater part of this region has been but partially explored, and is imperfectly known. It appears to consist of vast prairies, fringed along the lower courses of the rivers with patches of wood land. Countless droves of buffalo, elk, deer, and wild horses, range and gra/e upon these extensive prairies : the latter being caught and subdued by the Indians, afford them the means of transporting themselves and families from place to place ; while the buffalo and other animals furnish them with the chief part of their food and clothing. To the west of these plains, the Rocky Mountains rise tip in an abrupt manner, presenting a steep front with numerous frown- ing rocky precipices, and having many summits covered with perpetual snow. The Missouri is the principal stream ; which, with its tributa- ries, drains the whole of this region. The Yellow-Stone is the largest of its upper tributaries, and is by some even considered the main stream : it rises among the Rockv Mountains, in the south-west part of this section, and flowing generally a north-east course, empties into the Missouri, 3000 miles from the ocean. The Great Falls of the Mis^souri present a spectacle of uncom- mon grandeur. They consist of a succession of cataracts, the whole descent of which is 850 feet. The place where the Mis- •t Tm na NORTH AMKRICA. souri passes from the mountains, called the Gates of the Rocky Mountains, displays a stupendous work of nature. The river is compressed to the width of only 450 feet, between perpendicular rocks 1200 feet in height. The principal aboriginal races are the Pawnees, the various tribes of Sioux, Uiccarees, Blackfoet Indians, &c. : most of them appear to bo nomadic in their habits, and, being in possession of an ample store of horses, roam from place to place in quest of buffalo and other game. For severol years past, the small-pox has fearfully desolated this region : some of the most powerful of the native tribes have lost, by its ravages, thousands of their population, and have be- come almost extinct. The Mandan nation were in a short time reduced from 1600 to 31 individuals: these have incorporated themselves with the Riccarees, and their race has ceased to exist as a distinct tribe. I :; P: OREGON TERRITORY. The country extending westward from the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean, and lying between 42° and 54° 40' of north latitude, is generally known by the name of the Oregon Terri- tory, and is claimed both by the United States and Great Britain. On the north and the east, as far south as the 49°, it is bounded by the southern part of the British possessions, and southward of the 49° by the Missouri Territory ; south by the Republic of Mexico ; and west by the Pacific Ocean : it is in length about 880 miles, with an average breadth of 650 : area, about 450,000 square miles. The surface of the country, so far as it is known, is broken and mountainous : it is traversed on its eastern boundary by the vast ridges of the Rocky Mountains, many of the elevated peaks of which rise above the limits of perpetual snow. Westward of the mountains the country descends by regular slopes, in form of immense terraces or descending plains, disposed regularly one below the other. At the distance of from 120 to 160 miles from the Pacific, and nearly parallel with the coasf, a range of moun- tains extends, which has as yet received no general designation : the highest peaks have been named Mount Jefl^rson, Mount Hood, Mount St. Helen's, Mount Regnier, &c. The only rivers explored in this territory are the Columbia or Oregon, and its branches. This noble stream has its head waters near those of the Missouri, and collects its tribute for a wide extent along the western ridges of the Rocky Mountains : ,4,- -■ . ■ ouRi;oN. 173 itfj principn! tributaries uro Lowis', Clark's or Flut Iloail, M'GjU livvay'd, unci Oitiimgnn rivrrs. The Columbia and its bnuichca abound in thu linnst salmon, wiiic.h scvin, with Nturt^con, to con- stitute the chief articles of ibo«l of the natives west of the moun- tains. Seals and other atjuatic animals are taken in great numbers, and the skins shipped to (Jhina ; thus constituting one of the chief articles of trade from this part of the world. The country bordering on the Columbia and its branches, is represented as having a good soil, and is covered with heavy timber, consisting chiefly of various species of lir ; many of the trees btjing of enormous height. To this region the United States have acquired a title by the Louisiana treaty, by the discovery of the principal river, and by interior exploration. It is, however, con'.-sted by Greot Britain, who claims, not that the title is in her, but that the region is un- appropriated, and open to the first comer. By a convention con- cluded in 1828, it was agreed l)etween the United States and Great Britain that neither government should take possession of it, or occupy it, to the exclusion of the other, during the period of the convention, which either party might renounce upon giving twelve months' notice. This territory has been so named in the congressional discu.^- sions that have taken place in reference to the country. It was first discovered by the Spaniards, who, however, did not penc- trate into the interior. In 1791, Captain Gray, of the ship Co- lumbia, of Boston, entered the great river of this region, and from him it received the name of his ship. In 1805, Messrs. Lewis and Clark were sent out by the United States' government, for the express purpose of exploring this country : they navigated the Missouri to its source, and crossing the Rocky Mountains, descended the Columbia River to the Pa- cific Ocean, and spent the winter on its shores : they returned by the same river to the mountains, and most of the exact in- formation that we have of the country is from them. The question of settling Oregon Territory permanently, has been more than once debated in Congress : were such settlement authorized, and rendered secure by the requisite military estab- lishments, there can be no doubt that it would receive large accessions of settlers. It may be considered as at present actu- ally in possession of Great Britain. The traders of the Hudson's Bay Company have established forts at various points, and exer- cise an almost unlimited control over the natives. Forts Van- couver, Wallah Wallah, and Colville are the chief trading sta- tions. Fort George is on thf^ site of Astoria, a station settled 15* ;^ % 174 NORTH AMERICA. U'-:^y many years ago by traders in the employ of John Jacob Astor, Esq., of New York. At Fort Vancouver there is a village containing 50 houses, with 800 inhabitants. These comprise the labourers and ser- vants attached to the forts, with their Indian wives and slaves. From this place a direct trade is carried on with the Sandwich Islands and Great Britain, which employs several vessels besides a steam- boat. There are two small white settlements on the Willamette, a branch of the Columbia river, where the Method- ists have a missionary station, and the American Board of Foreign Missions has recently established two stations, and employs nine missionaries and teachers on this side of the mountains. Many portions of this territory are well adapted for agricul- tural purposes. At some of the trading establishments belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company, farming has been commenced on a small scale, and found to succeed well. At Forts Vancouver and Colville, wheat, barley and potatoes of excellent quality are raised, and apples, pears, peaches, and all the usual kinds of garden vegetables, grow in abundance ; and at the settlements on the Willamette, farming is carried on successfully. The inhabitants of this territory are reckoned to amount to about 80,000, and consist of a number of small Indian tribes, with the white traders and hunters attached to the Hudson's Bay Company, and the few missionaries and settlers on the Wil- lamette. The chief tribes are the Flat Heads, Flat Bows, Pointed Hearts, Pierced Noses, and also the Shoshonees or Snake Indians, who are the most numerous and powerful in this region, being estimated at about 15,000 in number. POPULATION OF THE UNITED STATES. states. Maine New (Janipshlre Vermont Massachusetts . Rhode Island. .. Connecticut New York New Jersey . . . . Pt'iinsylvania . . Delaware Maryland D. of ColuinLia. Virginia North Carolina. South Carolina. Squire iPopulation, Slaves, Miles. ' 35,UUO »,-191 8,000 7,800, 1,235 4,7641 47,000, 1,9 1 8,eOS 8,:}'i0 .T20,823 40,000 I, ;TI48,233 1830. 399,955 269,338 980,052 010,408 97,199 297,005 ,100 9,350 100 0,000 50,000 76,748 447,040 39,834 1,211,405 737,98' 33,000) 581,185 1830. 17 25: 75 2,254 i 403 3,293; 102,994 6,119 469,757 245,601 315,401 States. Georgia ... Florida Alabama. .. Mississippi. Louisiana. . Ohio Kentucky . . Tennessee . Michi!,'an . . Indiana. . . . Illinois ... . xMissouri . .. Arkansas . . Total, • Not Slaves, but 63,000 55.000 51,770 48,000 48,320 44,000 40,000 45,000 60,000 36,400 55,000 (i4,000 55,000 1 13 "indented" Square fopuLition, Slavet, Milet. 1S30. 183ft 217,531 ]5,.501 117.549 65,659 109,588 516,823 .34,730 309,537 136,621 215,729 9:J7,903 687,9)7 681,903 3l,t).39 343,031 157,455 140,445 30.:»8l 165,213 141,603 32 ♦747 25,081 4,576 866,020i 2,009,618 coloured aervanti. pen^ verr chiel appc Al favoi the distal the ■. -"f^' TEXAS. 176 ♦747 25,0811 4,57ti -7)09;618| rvanti. REPUBLIC OF TEXAS. The Republic of Texas, which was, until lately, an integral portion of Mexico, formed, in conjunction with Coahuila, one of the States of that confederacy. To the people of the United States this infant republic is peculiarly interesting, from the cir- cumstances attending its struggle with the parent State, the gal- lantry displayed by its citizens in the field, its immediate conti- guity to the south-western parts of our territory, and also on account of Anglo-Americans forming the bulk of its rapidly increasing population. Previous to 1821, the only places occupied by whites were the Spanish posts of San Antonio de Bexar, Bahia, or Goliad, and Nacogdoches, comprising in all about 3000 inhabitants. In con- sequence of the encouragement held out to settlers by the Mexi- can government, there was a great influx of emigrants into the territory from the United States, many of whom carried with them their slaves. In 1832, the people of Texas formed foi themselves a separate State constitution, and endeavoured to obtain from the Mexican Congress a sanction of their proceed- ings, and an admission into the confederacy as an independent State. Meanwhile, however, the mutual discontents and suspi- cions of the colonists and government were increased to such a degree, that resort was had to arms. Texas was invaded by a large Mexican forc*j, headed by Santa Anna, the President, in person. At first tne overwhelming nu- merical superiority of the invaders gave them some advantages, and induced them to exhibit a remarkable ferocity towards their prisoners, several hundreds of whom were massacred in cold blood. But this state of things was soon reversed ; and at the battle of San Jacinto the Mexican army was utterly and irrecoverably routed, leaving their President a prisoner in the hands of the Texans. In March, 1836, the people of Texas, by a Convention held at Washington on the Brazos, declared themselves free and inde- pendent, and have since that time formed a constitution and go- vernment, modelled on that of the United States, and elected a chief magistrate, together with all the requisite officials and appointments of a sovereign and independent power. A soil of great fertility, and a geographical position highly favourable to commercial intercourse with the United States and the rest of the world, are advantages which doubtless will, at no distant period, render Texas opulent and powerful. The face of the country is generally level, and a great portion of it consists m • m m i'i; ■ wm It ' 176 NORTH AMERICA of vast prairies, the soil of which is a deep black mould, mixed with sand : the bottcn lands on many o'' the rivers, are of a rich red texture, of great depth, and well timbered. Most of the productions of tropical climates grow here in great perfection, and the cotton is equal to the finest produced in the United States : the other products are sugar, tobacco, rice, indigo, wheat, &c. This region is one of the finest stock coun- tries in the world : cattle are raised in great abundance, and with but little trouble. Texas is enclosed by the Nueces, the Sabine, the Ked River, and the great eastern ridge of the Rocky Mountains. Within the limits above described, it has an area of about 160,000 square miles, consisting chiefly of a level or slightly undulating surface. The country along the coast is low, but free from swamps, and composed of good arable prairie, interspersed with well- wooded river bottoms and fine pasture lands. Until the late emigrations from the United States, this section was filled with immense droves of mustangs, or wild horses, and wild cattle ; but their numbers are now considerably lessened. In the south-west, the country is elevated, being traversed by a range of mountains, extending northward from the head waters of the Nueces, and westward of the sources of the Brazos, Colorado, 6z;c. To the west and north are vast prairies, in which immense herds of buffalo supply the mounted Comanches with abundance of game. In the north-east, the country is undulating and better wooded. The rivers are numerous, but the majority of them are not, in their present state, of much importance for navigation, being in the dry season extremely low, and during the floods a good deal impeded with floating timber. The Sabine, Neches, and Trinidad rivers are all navigable to a certain extent during a part of the year. The river Brazos is considered the best navigable stream in Texas : vessels drawing six feet of water can navigate it to Brazoria ; and steam-boats of light draught, to San Felipe de Austin, 90 miles higher. At its mouth the river Brazos is 200 yards wide, and continues about the same to San Felipe. The Colorado river is not much inferior to the Brazos, but its naviga- tion is at present impeded by a rafl of drift-wood about ten miles from its mouth. The climate of Texas is mild and agreeable, and, as the country is free from swamps, and the wooded tracts are quite open and destitute of underwood, is more healthful than the cor- responding sections of the United States. The seasons are two ; the dry, from April to September, and the wet, which prevails during the rest of the year: the cold is pretty severe for a short time in December and January. Ml southj the Origji ish v] lengtl from of abd Mul of the Amerj is call] MEXICO. 177 it to de 200 The the quito e cor- two ; •evails short The towns are mostly small ; the priiicipal of them are San Augustine and Nacogdoches, in the eastern part of the republic, and both situated on streams flowing into the Neches ; San Fe- lipe de Austin, Columbia, Brazoria, and Velasco, on the Brazos river ; Matagorda, on and near the mouth of the Colorado ; together with San Antonio de Bexar, and Goliad, on the San Antonio. The city of Houston was recently the seat of govern- ment. Austin, situated a considerable distance up the Colorado, has been lately chosen as the future capital of Texas. The city of Galveston was not long since founded on the island of that name, with the expectation of its becoming an important commercial mart ; but the site is low, and liable to overflow by high tides when the sea is driven in by storms. The commerce of this youthful state is already sufficient to employ to advantage a number of regular trading- vessels be- tween her principal sea-ports and New Orleans, New York, and other important marts in the United States ; and an intercourse has been commenced with the chief commercial nations of Europe. The population of Texas is estimated at from 100,000 to 150,000, of whom at least two-thirds are Americans from the United States ; the remainder are negro slaves, Mexicans, and Indians of various tribes. The army is about 2500 in number ; ardent, filled with enthusiasm for the cause of Texas, and highly efficient as a military body. The main pecuniary dependence of this state is upon the great body of her rich and fertile lands, for the survey and sale of which, by a method similar to that of the United States, measures have been adopted. MEXICO. Mexico is an extensive territory, situated chiefly in the southern part of North America. It is washed on the east by the Gulf of Mexico, and on the west by the Pacific Ocean. Originally a native empire, afterwards the principal of the Span- ish viceroyalties, it is now a great independent republic. Its length may be stated at about 2500 miles ; the breadth varies from 130 to 1200 miles, and its whole surface contains an area of about 1,500,000 square miles. Much of the surface of Mexico is elevated, composing part of that vast ritlge which runs along the whole continent of America, parallel to the Pacific Ocean, and which in the south is called the Andes, and in the north the Rocky Mountains. In i 178 NORTH AMERICA. the middle part the chain presents a broad table-land, from 6000 to 8000 feet in height. On this elevated plain, detached moun- tains occur, of which the summits rise into the regions of per- petual snow, on a level almost with the mightiest of the Andes. Such arc the volcanic peaks of Orizava, Popocatepetl, and Toluca. The rivers of Mexico are not very numerous, nor, in general, of considerable magnitude. The principal is the Rio del Norte, which, rising in the northern part of the country, flows, by a south-easterly course of about 1800 miles, into the Gulf of Mexico. The Sacramento and Buenaventura are rivers of Upper California, of which, however, our knowledge is extremely slight. The Colorado of the West is a large river, but its course is through countries thinly peopled and little known. It falls into the Gulf of California, after receiving the Gila, a considerable stream. The lakes of this coniiiry are numerous, but none of them appear to be of great extent. The valley of Mexico contains live small lakes, on which, floating gardens, made by a sort of raft covered with a layer of rich earth, were once nurr^rous; but they are now mostly fixed, though some are still moveable. The only well-known lake, on a considerable scale, is that of Chapala, which is estimated to contain an area of about 1300 square miles. The Tule lakes in Upper California, and some others, near the northern boundary of Mexico, are said to be considerable bodies ofwater, as yet they are but little known. As an agricultural country, Mexico has been celebrated for the vast variety of productions which can be raised in its soil, according to the different degrees of elevation at which cultiva- tion is carried on. It is divided into warm lands, temperate lands, and cold lands. The warm or low lands of the coast, though capable of yielding in profusion all the productions of the torrid zone, ai*e subject to so deadly a pestilenc- that even the natives prefer to inhabit a poorer soil on the higher grounds ; and Europeans, except the few fixed by commercial pursuits, pass through it in trembling haste, as if death pursued them. The cold or high lands, again, are nearly devoid of vegetation, ex- hibiting on a few scattered s[)ots the plants ot the north. It is only on the " temperate lands" that the real and effective vege- tation exists ; and there the finest plants of the most genial tem- perate climates are produced in higher perfection than in most other parts of the known world. The wheat of Mexico excel? that of most other countries, both in quality and abundance, provided that by nature or art it has been supplied during growth with suflicient moisture. Indian- 1? MEXICO. IVJ [both It has Idian- corn, the proper grain of America, is still more generally culti- vated, and forms the standing food of the people. Its harvests are equally profuse. Barley and rye grow on the colder grounds ; the first forming the chief food of horses. Farther down grows the banana, which, though the proper food of the torrid zone, grows so high, that Humboldt calculates 50,000 square miles may be fit for it. Of all vegetables it yields the greatest propor- tion of aliment with the least culture. The manioc root, under the same climate, can be made to produce abundance of palata- ble and wholesome food. The Mexicans set much value also on the maguey, or American aloe, which is extensively cultivated. Each plant yields annu- ally about 150 quarts of a sweet juice, easily convertible into pulque, the favourite fermented liquor of the people. Sugar, cofiee, and cotton, are all produced of excellent quality, but only for internal use ; and cacao, though an universal beverage, is procured by importation. Cochineal is almost the only article collected extensively for export. The culture is laborious, and has diminished of late, but the price has not increased, substitutes being employed. There is also indigc, but it is inferior to that of Guatimala. Vanilla, the flavouring material of the chocolate, is obtained in the forests of Oaxaca and Vera Cruz ; and ex • ported to the amount of 40,000 or 50,000 dollars, annually. Manufactures in Mexico are in a very rude state. There are, however, considerable fabrics of coarse red earthenware and glass; also, manufactures of coarse woollens and cottons. Working in gold and silver has been a favourite occupation. Services of plate, worth 30,000 or 40,000 dollars, have been manufactured at Mexico, which, for elegance and fine workman- ship, may rival the best of the kind in Europe. The coaches of Mexico have long been celebrated both for good construction and beauty ; it being the particular ambition of all, who possibly can, to have their coach. The commerce of Mexico does not correspond with its great fame for wealth. The exports of the precious metals form the principal article ; next to this is cochineal, to which may be added, sugar, indigo, vanilla, sarsaparilla, jalap, logwood, and pimento. The exports at Vera Cruz, in 1824, amounted to 12 million dollars. The imports consisting chiefly of manufactured goods, wine, brandy, and metals, were at the same time nearly 5 million dollars. Under the Spanish government. Vera Cruz and Acapulco had a monopoly oi' the trade of Mexico ; but since the revolution a considerable amount has centred in other ports, of which the chief are, in the northern part of the gulf, Tampico and Matamoras ; Campeachy and Tabasco in the 180 NOUTII AMERICA. Mi' ^ '.'; i south ; San Bias and Mazatlan, on the western coast , and Guayamas in the Gulf of California. Tlie mines of gold and silver, however, are the grand objects which have connected the idea of unbounded wealth and ioinan* tic splendour with the name of Mexico. Peru furnishes gold in greater abundance ; but Mexico, since the first discovery, has produced more silver than all the vest of the world united. There are 3000 mines in Mexico ; some of them, however, are now unproductive, and even ruinous ; but adventurers have been encouraged to begin, and to persevere while a particle of their capital remained, by the enormous profits which have, in a few insl iTices, been realized. The produc<: oi ihe mines continued increasing till the com- mencement of the late revolution, at which time the sum total was about 25 luilllon dollars, annually. During the convulsions of that poi iod, me amount was greatly reduced, the water having, in many ii- ancos, being allowed to rush in, the machinery de stroyed, a il the workmen dispersed. The annual average pro duce ai present "s not more than 12 million dollars. Attempts hive been made to bring the aid of British capital and science to the mining operations of Mexico ; but owing to the habits of the people, and the prevailing disorders in the country, such endeavours have hitherto proved futile. The mint of Mexico is a prodigious establishment, in which all the processes are carried on with the greatest activity. It is capable of stamping 100,000 dollars within the hour. So rapid an operation is seldom required ; yet there have passed through it probably upwards of three thousand million dollars. Owing to the unsettled state of the country, nothing certain can be given as to the military force of the republic. The army is not large, and recent events have proved that it is not very efficient. The want of harbours must ever prevent Mexico from being a great maritime power. Little confidence can be placed in any statements relative to the finances. The annual revenue is stated to be about 15,000,000 dollars. The territory of the republic, consi: ng o^ he old vice-royal- ty of New Spain, of the captaincy-general of Yucatan, and of the commandancy-general of the Internal Provinces, wa . divided by the constitution of 1824 into nineteen states, four territories, and the Federal District : this arrangement was subverted by the decree of 1835, which provided for a new division of the country into departments, of which no special account has ever been published. The population of the Mexican states has been estimated, by diffei'ent authors, at from 5 to 10 millions, but appears to Im} generally reckoned at near 8 millions. Ta Vo Oa La Me QlK Feii Mk Jali; Uua Zact Dura 1 or C once ferei equa Eurc from with Ti] Were forme They capari The e about , ropear howe The still, conseq They been have beard, share, every The tion of are eh} with th Mestizo latter, duced ir be white title of by anoff MEXICO. 181 lyal- of tided Iries, by the lever I, by to bo SHIn. Tabasco Vora Cruz Oaxaca La Puebia . . . . Mexico Qiicrctaro Federal Ditttrict Michoacan . . . . Jalisco Uuanaxuato . . ZacatccaH Durango FopuUlion. 75,0(10 . 150,000 . CliO.OflO . cno.ooo . 1,500,000 . 100,000 uoo.ooo. 400,000. 870,000 . 500,000 . 200.000 . 150,000 . Capital. . V. Ilerinosa. . Xalapa. . Ua.\aca. La Pucbla. • TIalpan . Cliierotaro. Mexico. . Valladolid. Riiadalaxara. Ouanaxuato. /acatecas. • Durango. Slatia. PupaUtiou. Capital. Chihuahua 1(M),000 . . Chihuahua. Han Luis Potosi 300,000 . . S. L. Pototi. Tamaulipas 150,000 ■ . Aguayo. New Leon 100,000 . . Monterey. Coahuila 60,000 . . Moncjnva. Sonora and Binaloa . .100,000 . . Sinalon. Yucatan 570,000 . . Merida. Chiapa 03,000 .. Chiapa. Territory of N.Mexico 60,000 . . Santa F6, Territory ofCalifornias 50,000 . . Monterey. Territory of Coli ma .. 10,000. Colinia. Territory uf TIascala jO.OOO . . TIascala. There are three classes of inhabitants in Mexico : the Whites, or Creoles, tiio Indians, and the mixed races. These were all once as distinct from each other as if they had belonged to dif- ferent nations ; but the revolution has placed all classes on an equal footing, and men of all complexions are alike free. The European Spaniards, called Chapetones, arc now nearly expelled from Mexico. They Ibrmerly held all the offices, and acted with much pride and arrogance. The Creoles, or Whites, born in America, even when they were depressed beneath the preponderance of the Europeans, formed a privileged class, in comparison with other natives. They are fond of splendour, and delight to ride on horses richly caparisoned ; and many are in the possession of ample fortunes. The entire number of those denominated whites, in Mexico, is about 1,500,000, of whom all, except the small number of Eu- ropeans yet in the country, are Creoles. Very few of the latter, however, are free from a mixture of Indian blood. The Indians, descendants of the original possessors of Mexico, still survive, to the supposed amount of almost 4,000,000, and are, consequently, nearly three times as numerous as the white race. They bear the general features of those aborigines "•'i^ have been found in all parts of North and South America. They have the same copper colour, the flat and smooth hair, small beard, squat body, long eye, and prominent cheek-bones. They share, with the rest of their rades, an exemption from almost every species of deformity. The mixed castes form a very numerous part of the popula- tion of this country, being estimated at about 2,500,000. They are either Mulattoes, descended from a mixture of the White with the Negro ; Zamboes, from the Negro and Indian ; or Mestizoes, from a mixture of the White with the Indian. The latter, in consequence of the small number of Negroes intro- duced into Mexico, compose seven-eighths of this class. To be white was formerly in Mexico a badge of rank, and almost a title of nobility. When a Mexican considered himself slighted })v another, he would ask, " Am I not as white as vourself?" 16 -jl." ■ :€ ^.- 182 NORTH AMERICA. The Catholic religion was inf roduccd into Mexico at the time of the conquest, with u body of clergy, both secular and regular. The church establishment now consists of the Archbishop of Mexico, and the nine bishops under him. Those with the inferior clergy do not exceed 10,000 ; or, including every person con- nected with the church, 13,000 or 14,000. A number of the lower order of priests, especially in the Indian villages, are very poor, their income not exceeding 100 dollars a year. The in- fluence and revenue of the church, also, have considerably di- minished during the revolution. Though the sciences of mining, geometry, architecture, and astronomy, have received some attention in Mexico, yet the great body of the people are deplorably ignorant. This is owing to the illiberal policy of the Spanish government, which confided all civil, military, and ecclesiastical dignities only to Europeans, and discouraged the education of those classes which now compose the population of the republic. Since the revolu- tion, the country has been too much disturbed to allow the cure of this disorder, yet steps have already been taken in the differ- ent states towards providing means for general education. The amusements are chiefly those of old Spain : bull-fights, and religious processions. The theatre is still far inferior to that of the mother country. At the time of the discovery of America, Mexico formed the most powerful of the native empires. It was inhabited by a people called Aztecs, who had made some advances towards civilization, but were ignorant of the use of fire-arms. This empire was conquered by Fernando Cortez, a Spaniard, in 1519, and continued for near 300 years the most important colony be- longing to Spuin. In the year 1810 the revolution began, and after various conflicts with the European Spaniards, the inde- pendence of Mexico was declared in 1821. The following year, Iturbide, a military chief, cau&ed himself to be declared Em- peror, but he was soon afterwards dethroned and banished ; and in 1824 a constitution was adopted on the plan of that of the United States. In 1835, by a decree of the Congress, the state Legislatures were suppressed, and the government changed from a Federal to a Central Republic. Mexico was long considered the largest city in America ; but it is now surpassed by New York and Philadelphia. It is un- doubtedly one of the finest cities buill by Europeans in either hemisphere : with the exception of St. Petersburg, Berlin, and Philadelphia, and some quarters of Westminster, there does not exist a place of the same extent which can be compared to the capital of Mexico, for the uniform level of the ground on 'is' stones , . c- MEXICO. 183 and ndc- year, Em- and the stale from but un- either and does red to ind on M which it stands, lor the regularity and breadth of the streets, and t'le extent of the squares and public places. The architec- ture is often of a very pure style, and there are even edifices of a very beautiful structure. The palace of the late viceroys, the cathedral, several of the convents, and some private residences, are of great extent and magnificence ; yet, upon the whole, it is rather the arrangement, regularity, and general effect of the city, which render it so striking. This city lies in a large valley, 60 miles in length by 40 in breadth, which has the volcanic summits of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl on the south, and contains five small and beautiful lakes. This great basin, called the Basin of Mexico, is in no part less than 6000 feet above the level of the sea. Most oi' the streets are handsomely paved, lighted, and cleansed. The markets are abundantly supplied with animal and vegetable productions, brought by crowds of canoes along the lake of Chalco, and the canal leading to it. It is a great disadvantage to Mexico, however, that it stands nearly on a level with the surrounding lake ; which» in seasons of heavy rains, overwhelms it with destructive inundations. The coustruction of a dosague, or canal, to carry off the waters of the lake Zumpango, and of the principal river by which it is fedy has, since 1629, prevented any very desolating flood. The desague cost five miUion dollars, and is one of the most stupen- dous hydraulic works ever executed. Were it filled with water, the largest vessels of war might pass by it through the range of mountains which bound the plain of Mexico. Acapulco, on the west coast, is one of the most magnificent harbours in the world, seeming as if it were excavated bv art out of a vast circuit of granite rocks, which shut out all view of the sea. Yet while Vera Cruz, with its wretched anchorage amid sand-banks, annually received from 400 to 500 vessels, that of Acapulco scarcely received 10, even in the time of the Manilla galleon, the discontinuance of which reduced it to a state of insignificance. It is said, however, of late, to have consider- ably revived ; and its customs, after falling so low as 10,000 dol- lars, had risen, in 1826, to 400,000 dollars. La Pucbla, the capital of the state of La Puebla, is a hand- some and large city. It is entirely Spanish, having been tbunded fiincc the conquest. The houses are large and lofty, the walls often covered with paintings, while the roof is ornamented with glazed tiles. The cathedral is a vast pile, with little external ornament : but the interior s rich beyond description. The high altar is composed of tho most beautiful marble and precious stones; its numerous and lofty columns, with plinths and capitals ■ f ■ ml 1H4 N < ) U T II A M E U H A h f' I", +<:*! I . i--f of burnishHd gold, its stutuos uiid other ornamciits, have an un- equalled etFoct. In muiiulucfures it f 'u-a the lead of other Mcxicau cities: those of woollen have ujclined; but those of earthenware and glass are still /lourishuig. The population is estimated ut about 80,000. Cholula, the ancient capital of a great independent republic, has declined into a town, containing 6000 souls. The pyramid of Cholula is the work of art which, next to the pyramids of Egypt, approaches nearest in magnitude and vastness to those of nature. It is not nearly so high as the greatest of the Egyptian pyramids, being only 172 feet ; but the length is nearly double; IWio feet, instead of 128. Vera Cruz, in which centres almost all the trade of Mexico, is well and handsomely built, and its red and white cupolas, towers, and battlements, have a splendid cflect when seen from the water. The streets also are kept extremely neat and clean ; yet it is cou^idered the most disagreeable of all places of resi- dence. This arises not merely from the pestilence which taints the air ; the surrounding country is covered with sand blown into iiillocks, which, reflecting the rays of the sun, render the heat more oppressive. This place appears to have sensibly declined since the dissolu- tion of the ties which connected Mexico with the mother country. The population is about 7000. l'hnst bcnutilul nnd (Iclij^litfully sitiiatofi, as well ns ono of (ho mos: industrious and wcnifhy cltios of Mexico. The streets all cross each other at right angles, and terminate in its thrcM* principal squares. Its aqueduct, about ten miles in lon.;: ' ^ HHi^^k: 188 NORTH AMERICA. The territory of New Mexico is only an infant settlement, formed on the upper part of the Rio del Norte, in a fertile tract of land, but having a climate remarkably cold, considering the latitude. A great number of sheep are roared, of which about 30,000 are sent every year to the southward ; and there are some mines of valuable copper. Santa Fe, the capital, contains about 5000 inhabitants. The caravan route from the state of Missouri terminates here. Lower California is a long peninsula in the Pacific, parallel to the continent, from which it is separated by its deep gulf. The soil is sandy and arid, and only a few favoured spots present a trace of vegetation. There are about 7000 or 8000 white inhab- itants and converted Indians, and 4000 savages ; and it is not supposed that the population can ever be much greater. The missions have been pretty much broken up since the revo- lution. Loretto, once a place of some note, now contains about 250 inhabitants. New or Upper California is a vast tract extending north from Lower California to the latitude of 42°. A lofty ridge of moun- tains runs along i*^ western side, not far from the sea, forming the prolongation oi* the mountains of the peninsula, and extend- ing north beyond the Columbia river. Along the coast some missions have been founded, and some settlements of whites effected. The former are now rapidly declining. There are 21 establishments, containing about 7000 converts. These are In- dians, who have, from time to time, been forced to join the mis- sions. They are kindly treated, but are not allowed to leave the settlements ; and the surplus of their labour belongs to the mis- sionaries : the missions have about 300,000 head of cattle. The coast has some excellent harbours, among which is that of St. Frencisco, which affords perfect security to ships of pny burthen, with plentiful supplies of fresh beef, vegetables, >, and fresh water. Monterey, the principal town of Upper . .- fornia, has 3000 inhabitants. On the eastward of the coast above mentioned, to the Colorado and the Rocky Mountains, is a vast sandy plain, about 200 miles in width by 500 in length, consisting of a bare, arid surface, with some isolated mountains interspersed here and there over its dreary bosom. Balize Settlement. — On the west side of the peninsula of Yucatan is the Balize Settlement, which, though within the lim- its of Mexico, belongs to Great Britain. It extends along the bay of Honduras about 150 miles. The population consists of about 4000 persons, of whom nearly 300 are whites, and the rest nd extending navij 50 i] fathc that GUATIMALA. 189 Indians, negroes, and mixed breeds. Balize, the capital of the settlement, is a v/ell-built town, on both sides of the river of the same name. The colony was founded for the purpose of cutting logwood and mahogany, and its exports in 18S0 were of the value of 1,500,000 dollars. GUATIMALA, OR UNITED STATES OF CENTRAL AMERICA. The republic of Guatimala, occupying the narrow tract between the two greaf masses of the continent, has, in virtue of its position, assumed the title of the United States of Central America. Guatimala is bounded on the south-east by the republic of New Grenada ; on the north and north-east by the Mexican states, and the Caribbean sea; and on the south and south-west by the Pacific Ocean. It is about 1000 miles in length, and from 100 to 350 in breadth. The surface has been estimated at 200,000 square miles. A lofty chain of moimtains, forming a part of the great Mexi- can and Rocky Mountain range, traverses the country from south-east to north-west. It extends along the Pacific coast, and presents a series of 21 volcanic peaks in constant activity. This part of the country is subject to th3 most tremendous convul- sions of nature, which have buried cities in ruins, and destroyed whole tribes of people. The volcano of Agua, or Water, and that of Fuego, or Fire, both near Guatimala, rise to the height of from 14,000 to 15,000 feet. The volcano of Cosiguina, in Nicaragua, was in the year 1834 the subject of one of the most terrific eruptions on record. The noise was heard as far as Bo- gota, in New Grenada, 1000 miles distant; and the ashes thrown out by the volcano were carried to Jamaica, 800 miles. The eastern part of Guatimala, swelling somewhat into the form of a peninsula, and known by the name of Mosquitia, or the Mosquito shore, consists of a vast unbroken forest, beat by the burning rays of the sun, and occupied by unsubdued Indians. The waters which descend from the mountains of Guatimala fall into one or other of the opposite oceans, and do not swell into rivers of any importance. The Lake of Nicaragua is navigable for the largest ships. It is 120 miles in length, and 50 in breadth, and possesses almost throughout a depth of 10 fathoms. Numerous streams, flowing from different quarters, If'*,' ■'I '• . I'l.'l-.. %6. ^ y ■ i 7 '4- ': . k gl. fcillii ' 190 GUATIMALA form this great body of water, which has only one outlet in the river St. Juan, which flows from it into the Caribbean sea. The surface of the lake is diversified and adorned with small islands, in one of which is a volcanic mountain. It communi- cates by a short navigable channel with a smaller lake, called the Lake of Leon, which may almost be considered as a branch of it. This lake is but five miles from the Tosta, a small stream which flows info the Pacific Ocean. A union of the Caribbean sea and the Pacific Ocean, by a canal through these channels, is contemplated, which, if executed, will be themost use- ful and important work of the kind in the world. Like Mexico, this country yields, in different regions and at small distances from each other, all the varieties of fruit and grain peculiar to the tropical and temperate zones. Of fruits, several of the most valuable are produced in the highest perfec- tion. The indigo, which forms so large a part of the commerce of Mexico, is almost entirely the produce of Guatimala. The cacao of Soconusco is said to be the finest in the world. Vanilla, the other ingredient of chocolate, is procured to a great extent from this quarter. Sugar, cotton, cochineal, mahogany, and dye-woods, are also exported. There are manufactures of cotton and porcelain, some of ..hem fine, but only for internal consumption ; and the fabrics in wrought gold and silver are said to possess great merit. As to commerce, Guatimala labours under the disadvantage of not having, on either ocean, any extensive commercial depot, or a port capable of I'eceiving large ships : and its commodities have to bear a heavy land-carriage, and a coasting voyage, before they arrive at Vera Crux. Guatimala contains numerous mines, particularly of silver ; some of which have been undertaken by an English company, in the expectation of their proving productive ; but the result is yet uncertain. The population is estimated at nearly 2,000,000. About one-half of the whole number are Indians, one-fiflh whites, and three-tenths mixed races. The government of Guatimala is federal republican in its form, being modelled on that of the United States. A federal congress, composed of a senate and house of representatives, chosen, the latter by the people, the former by the states, and a president, also chosen by the popular vote, manage the general concerns of the confederacy. Each state has its respective legislature and executive chief for the administration of its domestic affairs. The territory of the republic, together with the present Mexi- can state Chiapas, formed the Spanish daptaincy-general of Guatimala until 1821, when it was incorporated with Mexico. GUATIMALA. 101 ilvev ; |is yet 1,000. rhites, 1 form, igress, >n, the sident, icerns ire and Irs. Mexi- [xq\ of lexico. On the fall of Iturbidc, in 1824, it separated itself from the lat- ter, and constituted itself an independent republic, under the title of the Federal Republic of Central America. The confederacy consists of five states, and a federal district, as follows : States. Population. Capital. Guatimala 800,000 Old Guatimala San Salvador 350,000 San Salvador. Honduras 250,000 Comayagua. Costa Rica 150,000 Cartage. Nicaragua 250,000 Leon. Federal District, Nevr Guatimala. This country has of late been the seat of anarchy and civil war; and on the 24th of February, 1838, the city of Guatimala was attacked and captured by the insurgents, under General Carrero ; and Senor Salazar, who had been vice-president of the republic since the 1st of May, 1835, was killed. St. Salvador, the capital of the republic of Guatimala, is situ- ated in a fine valley, in the midst of fertile indigo and tobacco plantations, and has an active commerce, as well as extensive manufactures. Population, 15,000. New Guatimala was built in 1774, in consequence of the al- most entire destruction of Old Guatimala by an earthquake. The streets are broad, clean, and straight. The houses are generally low on account of the frequency of earthquakes, and provided with gardens and fountains. The cathedral, the go- vernment house, the archbishop's palace, the mint, and several of the churches, are handsome buildings. The commerce and manufactures of the city are extensive. Population, 35,000. Old Guatimala has been several times destroyed by earth- quakes, and lies between the volcanoes of Agua and Fuego. It suffered much from an earthquake in 1830. It formerly con- tained fifty or sixty churches, and several large convents, which are now in ruins. Its cathedral is one of the largest in America. Population, 18,000. Leon, the capital of Nicaragua, is regularly laid out, and handsomely built ; and contains a university and a cathedral. It has 20,000 inhabitants. Fourteen leagues distant is the fine harbour of Realejo, on the Pacific, separated only by a level country, over which there is a good road. Nicaragua, on the lake of the same name, is a town of about 8000 inhabitants. Its port is St. Juan, at the mouth of the navigable outlet of the lake. Cartago, with 20,000 inhabitants, and St. Jose, are the principal towns of Costa Rica. Comayagua, the capital of Honduras, contains a college. .3moa and Truxillo, on the bay of Honduras, have tolerable harbours, but are sickly. 103 THK WEST INDIES. if'. if' I II, #: i I ■: I" WEST INDIES. The West Indies consist of a large collection of islands, sit- uated in the wide interval of sea between North and South America. Their rich products, high state of cultivation, and the singular form of society existing in them, have rendered them peculiarly interesting and important. These islands comprise four great divisions. The Bahama islands, the Great Antilles, the Little Antilles, and the Caribheo islands. The latter are divided into two groups : the Windward and Leeward islands. Cuba, Hayti, Jamaica, and Porto Rico, are the Great Antilles ; the other islands are all much smaller, but many of them are very important from their fertility and rich productions. Guada- loupe, Dominica, Antigua, St. Christopher, Nevis, Santa Cruz, and St. Eustatia, are the chief of the Leeward, and Trinidad, Barbadoes, Martinico, St. Vincent, Grenada, and St. Lucia, the principal of the Windward islands. The Little Antilles lie along the coast of Venezuela : of these the largest are Margarita and Curacoa. The land area of all these islands amounts to from 90,000 to 100,000 square miles. Mountains of considerable height diversify each of the islands. The most elevated peaks of Cuba, Hayti, and Jamaica, ascend from 7000 to 9000 feet ,* while the highest summits of the Ca- ribbee islands range from 3000 to 6000 feet. Most of these eminences have evidently been the seat of volcanic action ; but this appears to have ceased in all of them, except the Soufriere of Guadaloupe, which still exhibits some indications of it. The climate of the West Indies is, for a great part of the year, mild and pleasant, the heat being in some measure mode- rated by the uniform length of the nights, and by refreshing sea- breezes. The seasons are divided between the wet and the dry : the former, occurring in May and October, are of short contin- uance, and during the rest of the year the sky is clear, and the nights are remarkable for their brilliancy. In the interval between the months of August and October, the West India islands are sometimes visited by terrible storms, called hurricanes. They are, in general, preceded by a pro- found calm ; this is soon followed by lightning and thunder, rain, hail, and impetuous blasts of wind, which move with in- credible swiftness. Plantations, forests, and houses, are oflen swept away before their violence, which, however, is but of short duration. The West Indies abound in nearly all the productions of warm ch'i paf &c. indi mer and I T Wh( two I who mas like a few idad. Th betwe whites The V in the «re th« slaves the firi brough their fn colonieJ "la/ium an QttaJ of theii by infejl enslave! ByaJ slaves ^aboureii August,] they are owners hon poul PensatioJ cacJi coj terms o( Soon Antigua I vernmeni turesofj St. Vincc I::- 'i-- m ll'i' WEST INDIES. 188 \ Q d >; re a- iz, id, :he •ng ind om ids. :end iCa- iiese but :iere the lode- sea- dry: lutin- i the ober, arms, pro- nder, h in- often short I warm climates ; the principal fruits are oranges, lemons, pine-appics, papaws, bananas, plantains, &c. Manioc, yams, Indian-corn, &c. arc cultivated for food ; and sugar, cofiee, cocoa, cotton, indigo, tobacco, allspice, &c. furnish important articles of coni< mercc. The forests contain mahogany, lignumvitte, iron*wood, and other woods useful in the arts. Tho native races of these islands are now nearly extinct. When first discovered by the Spaniards, they were inhabited by two distinct nations : the Arrowauks, a mild and peaceful people, who had made some advances in civiUzation, occupied the Baha- mas and the Great Antilles ; and the Caribs, a fierce and war- like race, inhabited the more southerly isles. Of the latter, a few individuals are still to be found in St. Vincent and Trin- idad. The present population is composed of several distinct classes, between whom scarcely any sympathy exists ; they comprise whites, negro slaves, emancipated negroes, and mulattoes. The whites consist of Europeans and Creoles, or whites born in the West Indies ; in all the islands, with one exception, they are the masters, and possess all the power and property. The slaves form the chief bulk of the population, except in Hayti and the British islands, and are the descendants of slaves originally brought from Africa. The emancipated negroes have obtained their freedom, either by legislative enactment, as in the British colonies ; by the exercise of numerical force, as in Huyti ; by manumission, through the favour of masters who had conceived an attachment to them, or earned by the industrious employment of their leisure hours. The mulattoes, &c. have been produced by intercourse between the white and black races, and are never enslaved. By an act of the British parliament, passed in 1838, the slaves were, on the 1st of August, 1834, made apprenticed labourers, to continue such, a part of them, till the first of August, 1838, and a part till the first of August, 1840, when they are all to become completely free. To i«idemnify the owners of the slaves, parliament voted them the sum of 20 mil- lion pounds sterling, or nearly 100 million of dollars, as a com- pensation, payable in certain fixed proportions, according as each colony should be ascertained to have complied with the terms of the act. Soon after the passing of this act, the slaves in the islands of Antigua and the Bermudas were made free by the colonial go- vernments ; and acts have been recently passed by the legisla- tures of Barbadoes, Jamaica, Nevis, Montserrat, St. Christopher's, St. Vincent, Tortola, and the other islands, by which all the 17 'i r'h 194 THE WEST INDIES. i \'L':':;^\ slaves, or apprenticed labourers, wore liberated in those islands, on the 1st of August, 1838. The population .of the difTerent islands may be apportioned as follows : Daniih Dutch &,c. islands . . 119,000 Hayti 800.000 Total 2,970,000 Spanish islands 1,050,000 British do 745,000 French do. 956,000 Of the above population, 500,000 are whites, 600,000 slaves, and 1,870,000 are free negroes and mulattoes. Commerce is carried on to a much greater extent in the West Indies than in any other country of the same wealth and popu- lation in the world. The value of the exports is probably not less than 70 million dollars, and the imports rather more than half that amount. The greatest trade is with Great Britain and the United States, and the British North American colonies. The chief articles of export are, coffee, sugar, rum, cotton, cocoa, pimento, mahogany, logwood, &c. The imports are, manufactured goods of all kinds from Europe, with flour, lum- ber, fish, and salted provisions from the United States and British America. The islands of the West Indies, with the exception of Hayti and Margarita, belong to different European nations, and are under the control of governors appointed by the powers to which they respectively belong. The government of the British West Indies is modelled on the constitution of the mother coun- try. The several islands have a governor or lieutenant-gover- nor, and a legislative council, appointed by the crown ; and the most of them have also a house of representatives chosen by the people. Spanish Islands. The western colonies of Spain, which for some centuries com- prised the greater part of the American continent, with all its richest and most splendid regions, are now limited to the two islands of Cuba and Porto Rico. Yet these are so considerable and so fruitful, that, since a more liberal policy has been adopt- ed towards them, they have in no small degree compensated for her immense losses. Cuba, the finest and largest of the West India Islands, is about 760 miles in length, by 52 in mean breadth, and has a superficial area of 43,600 square miles, being nearly equal in extent to all the other islands taken together. It is traversed throughout its whole extent by chains of mountains, whose highest peaks, Potrillo and Cobre, attain an elevation of 9000 t: :,'v THE WEST INDIES. 105 IS 00 lOO )00 es, ^est ipu- not ;han and tton, are, lum- i and Hayti id are jrs to Jritish coun- Tover- nd the sen by linds, IS has a kqual in faversed whose >f 9000 feet ; and the plains beneath are copiously watered, and render* cd fit for producing, in the highest porfection, the objects of tropical culture. Within the last thirty years, various circumstances have con- curred in improving tlie condition of this island, and it has from being one of the poorest, become, in proportion to its extent, per- haps the richest European colony in the world. The expulsion of the Spaniards from the continental colonies, and from St. Domingo, with the cession of Florida to the United States, have brought a vast increase of inhabitants, and the adoption of a more liberal and protecting system towards strangers has added greatly to its trade and commerce. Forty years ago the revenue of Cuba did not amount to a million of dollars, but at the pre- sent time it cannot be less than ten times that sum. The principal articles of export from this island are sugar, cofiee, molasses, tobacco, cigars, honey, &c. : these amount annually to about 15 million dollars. The imports are chiefly lumber, provisions, cotton goods, hardware, wine8,dzc., rising altogether to the sum total of 20 million dollars. The principal part of the trade is carried on with the United States, Spain, and Great Britain. Total population of Cuba, 725,000. Whites 315,000. Mulattoes and free negroes, 110,000. Slaves, 300,000. Havannah, the capital of Cuba, is one of the largest cities of the New World. It presents a magnificent appearance from the sea, its numerous spires being intermingled with lofly and luxu- riant trees. The churches are handsome and richly ornamented , and several private mansions Are reckoned to be worth above 300,000 dollars each. The interior of the city, however, for the most part consists of narrow, ill-paved, and dirty streets, crowded with merchandise and wagons, and presenting entirely the appearance of busy trade. Yet the alameda, or public walk, and the opera, on the appearance of a favourite performer, ex- hibit a gay and even splendid aspect. The recently constructed suburbs are also built in a superior style. Havannah has patri- otic and literary societies, which are improving. Several jour- nals are published, one of them in English. The population is estimated at 120,000. Matanzas, about sixty miles east of the capital, is now the second commercial town in the island. The population of the place amounts to about 15,000. Upwards of 50 million pounds of sugar, and nearly 8 million pounds of coflee have been exported from this place in one year. As the vicinity is rapidly becoming settled and brought under cultivation, its importance is daily increasing. Trinidad is one of the most populous and thriving places on the island, since the removal of the restrictions :* ■I ■i'y u ■ B!M: 196 THE WE8T INDIE8. {•h, \ ■!- u'r-. Piv]- 'U- . on its trade. Its harbour is capacious, but nxposed, and ifs commerco considerablo. Population, 12,500. To tho west lies Fernandina, a smull town, but having one of the best harbours in the world, formed by the masnificent bay of Xngua. Puerto Principe, situated in the interior, is a poor, dirty, and ilUbuilt town, in u wot spot, which in many places is only piss- able on raised footpaths. Its inland trade is considerable. Popu* lation, 50,000. In tho eastern part of the island is St. Jago de Cuba, once the capital of Cuba. It is one of the oldest and best-built towns of the colony, and contains 20,000 inhabitants. Porto Rico, the smallest of the Great Antilles, is about 100 miles in length by 36 in mean breadth, and has a superficies of 4000 square miles. Although inferior to none of the islands in fertility and general importance, it was long neglected by Spain, and until the beginning of the present century its wealth was derived entirely from its woods and pastures. The population is about 825,000 ; of this number only 35,000 are slaves. The law makes no distinction between the white and the coloured classes, and the whites are in the habit of intermixing freely with the people of colour. The exports are sugar and coffee, with cattle, tobacco, rum, cotton, &c. ; the imports are the same as those of Cuba. The annual value of the imports is about 3,000,000 dollars, of ex- ports 4,000,000 dollars, two-thirds of which are in American bottoms. The capital, St.John's, or San Juan, is a large, neat, and well- built town on the northern coast, with a deep, safe, and capacious harbour. It is very strongly fortified, and contains about 30,000 inhabitants. The other towns are small. Mayaguez and Aguadilla on the west coast, Ponce and Guay- a ma on the southern, and Foxardo, are the principal ports. British Islands. The British islands, though not the most extensive or natu- rally fruitful, are, since those of France have sunk into secondary importance, undoubtedly the best cultivated, most wealthy, and productive. Perhaps no part of the globe, in proportion to its extent, yields such au amount of valuable commodities for ex- portation. Jamaica, the largest and most valuable island in the British West Indies, is 150 miles long and 50 wide; area, 5500 square miles. The lofly range of the Blue Mountains in the interior, covered with ancient and majestic forests, gives to its landscapes a grand and varied aspect. From these heights descend about post^ a1 Lee\ Hen .■' 1 ^ THE WEST INDIES. 107 a hundred rivers, or rather rills, which dash down tho steeps in numerous cascades, und, aHer a short course, reach tho sea. The soil of this island is considered to be by no means uni> vorsally good, and its actual fertility is ascribed in a great measure to diligent manuring and cultivation. The sugar of Jamaicr i i of excellent quality, tho rum is considered superior to that of any of the other colonies ; but its cofiee ranks second to that of })cr« bice. I'inoento or allspice, the plantations of which are extremely ornamental, is peculiar to this island, und has been oHen termed Jamaica pepper. With her natural and acquired advantages, however, Jamaica has not been preserved from the |)estilentiai influence of the climate, which renders it extremely dangerous to European constitutions. The towns of Jamaica, as of tho other islands, are all sea- ports, and supported by commerce. Spanish Town, or Santiago de la Vega, the most ancient, and still the scat of the legislature and courts, is of comparatively litMe importance, and has not more than 4000 or 5000 inhabitants. Port Royal, possessed of a secure and spacious harbour, was, in the end of the seventeenth century, with the exception of Mexico and Lima, the most splen< did and opulent city in the New World. Suddenly an earth- quake swallowed up the greater part of the city anci its inhab- itants. It was afterwards rebuilt, but being successively ravaged by a destructive fire and a hurricane, came to be viewed as a fatal spot, was abandoned for Kingston, and is now reduced to 200 or 300 houses. The fortifications, however, which are very strong, are still kept up, and a navy-yard is maintained there. Kingston is now the principal town of Jamaica. Its commerce, though not equal to what that of Port Royal once was, is great, and IS favoured by a spacious and commodious roadstead. Its population is 30,000. Montego Bay, a place with about 4000 inhabitants, carries on a considerable commerce. The Grand and Little Cayman, which are inhabited only by a few hundred fishermen and pilots, may be considered as appendages to Jamaica. Barbadoes was the earliest settled and improved of all the English possessions. Its soil, though deficient in depth, is well fitted for the culture of sugar ; and its rich plantations, diversi- fied by the gentle hills which rise in the interior, present a delightful landscape. Bridgetown, the capital, is one of the gayest and handsomest towns and one of the strongest military posts, in the West Indies, containing above 20,000 inhabitants. Antigua, St. Christopher's, and the others which comprise tho Leeward Islands, have one governor, who resides at Antigua. Hence John's Town, its capital, admired for its agreeable situa- 17* M'' ■• if It ■ ■I I-- ■, .1. ■ ^v fl\'::.^ ■W #: :• Wm '-^1 iVj ^i- li^' k ;, i ill i , '■'. 198 THE WEST INDIES. tion, and the regularity of its buildings, derives a considerable degree of importance, and is a favourite resort. It has about 15,000 inhabitants. St. Christopher's, known often by the familiar appellation of St. Kitt's, was first occupied by the English in 1623 ; and, though repeatedly disputed by the Spaniards and French, has, with the exception of some short intervals, remained in the possession of Britain. Basseterre, the capital, on the south-west coast, con- tains 6000 or 7000 inhabitants. The other Leeward Islands consist of Montserrat, Nevis, Bar- buda, Anguilla, and the Virgin Islands : they are all small islands, and are among the least important in the British West Indies. Dominica is a large islandy» but not productive altogether in proportion to its extent, much of the surface being mountainous and rugged. Several of its volcanic summits throw out. from time to time, burning sulphur ; but they do not act to any de- structive extent. It is interspersed, however, with fertile valleys : a large quantity of coffee is raised on the sides of the hills. Roseau, or Charlottetown, the capital, is by no means so flour- ishing as before the fire of 1781 ; it is well built, but many of the houses are unoccupied. Its population may amount to 5000. St. Vincent's is one of the most elevated and rugged of the Caribbees. It contains the only very active volcano in these islands, which, after being dormant for a century, burst forth in 1812 with tremendous violence, exhibiting the most awful phe- nomena. It contains small remnants of the native Carib race, mingled with some free negroes, who were early introduced, and have adopted many of the Indian usages. Kingston, the capital, has been supposed to contain 8000 inhabitants. Grenada exhibits a considerable variety of surface, which, on the whole, however, is extremely productive, and renders it art important acquisition. St. George, the capital, named formerly Fort Royal, possesses one of the most commodious harbours in the West Indies, and has been strongly fortified. The Grena- dines, or Grenadiilos, comprising a number of small islands, lying between Grenada and St. Vincent, produce seme sugar and coffee. Tobago, is a small but fertile and beautiful island. It yields the fruits and other products common to the West India island.s with those of the bordering Spanish main. Scarborough, a town of about 3000 inhabitants, is its capital. St. Lucia was ceded to Great Britain in 1816. Its high peaks, called sugar-loaves, are visible at some distance at sea. Thr soil is productive, but the duiiate is unhealthful. On the westerr THE WEST INDIES. 199 The on side is Carcnage, one of the best harbours in thesie islands, town has a population of about 5000 souls. Trinidad, separated only by a strait from the coast of South America, where that country is traversed by the branches of the Orinoco, shares in a great measure its character. It is covered with magnificent forests, and presents scenery peculiarly grand and picturesque. The island is unhealthful, but fruitful. One remarkable object in this island is a lake of asphaltum, three miles in circumference. This substance, being rendered ductile by heat, and mingled with grease or pitch, is employed with advantage in covering the bottoms of ships. Trinidad contains still about 900 native Indians. Port Spain is a con- siderable town, well fortified, and with an excellent harbour. It is built regularly and handsomely, with a fine shaded walk and spacious market ; and the churches, both Protestant and Catho> lie, are very richly ornamented. The Bahama islands comprise about 650 islets and islands, of which only 14 are of considerable size. The soil of these islands is not fertile ; and cotton is the only article cultivated to any extent. Nassau, the capital of the Bahamas, is a flourish- jng town on the island of New Providence, with 5000 inhabitants. Between these islands and the coast of Florida is the Bahama channel, through which that celebrated current called the Gulf Stream, from the Gulf of Mexico, rushes with such impetuosity that it is perceptible upon the northern coasts of Europe. Its force renders the passage extremely dangerous, and has given occasion to frequent wrecks. The principal islands are the Great Bahama and Abaco, on the Little Bahama Bank ; Eleu- thera, New Providence, Guanahani, or St. Salvador, or Cat island, remarkable as the point first discovered by Columbus ; Yuma, and Exuma, on the Great Bahama Bank ; and Mayagu- ana, Inagua, the Caycos and Turks' islands, further south. The salt ponds of the last named islands supply great quantities of salt, which is obtained by evaporation. The Bermudas lie 900 miles eastward of South Carolina, and are a collection of rocks and small islands, of which only eight possess any importance. They enjoy an almost perpetual spring, and are clothed in constant verdure. But though they afford thus an agreeable and healthful residence, they have not proved productive in any of those commodities which can become the staple of an important traffic. The rocky nature of the coasts renders them easily defensible, but unfavourable to navigation. St. George, the seat of government, on an island of the same name, is only a large village. Population, 3000. VpMv • ft », %' : ^•t •.\ 200 THE WEST INDIES. French Islands. The possessions of France in the West Indies, previous to her revolutionary war, were more valuable than those of any other nation. The exports from St. Domingo or Hayti alone amounted to 25,000,000 dollars. That valuable island is now entirely lost to her. During the late war all her islands were captured, and she ceased to exist as a colonial power. At the peace, Martinico, Guadaloupe, &c., were restored. Martinico is one of the largest of the Caribbee islands : in the centre rise three lofty mountains, the streams descending from which copiously water the island. It has been often visited by earthquakes and by hurricanes. Fort Royal, the capital and the seat of the courts of justice, is a well-built town, with 7000 inhabitants ; but the chief trade centres in St. Pierre, the largest place in Martinico. It has about 20,000 inhabitants. Guadaloupe consists of two islands ; the western, called Basse- terre, contains a chain of lofty and rugged mountains, one of which emits volumes of smoke, with occasional sparks of fire. Its plains, however, are copiously watered and fruitful. The eastern division, called Grande Terre, is more flat, and labours under a deficiency of water. Basseterre, on the part of the island beanng that name, ranks as the capital ; but having a bad harbour, is supported merely by the residence of government, and has not more than 9000 inhabitants. Pointe-a-Pitre, on the eastern side, carries on almost all the trade, and has a population of about 15,000. The islands of Mariegalante, the Saintes, and Deseada, are appen> dages to Guadaloupe, of little importance. France possesses a portion of the island of St. Martin. Dutchi Stoedishy and Danish Islands. Cura^oa and St. Eustatia are the principal Dutch islands. The last, though the smallest, is the most fertile, being cultivated with great care. The capital is well fortified, and is the seat of a considerable commerce. Cura^oa produces some sugar and to- bacco, but is not very productive. It was once important as the centre of an extensive contraband trade with the Spanish South American colonies. The small island of Saba, and part of St. Martin's, also belong to Holland. St. Bartholomew is the only colony possessed by Sweden. It is highly cultivated, and carries on a considerable commerce. Its capital, Gustavia, formerly possessed some importance in consequence of having been, for many years, during the late Enropean wars, the only neutral port in these seas. ing to year U The, has bed The chl for lifej THE WEST INDIES. 201 Santa Cruz, St. Thomas, and Johns, belong to Denmark. The first is a fine, fertile island, 'd is highly prolific in all the usual West Indian products, hd capital carries on a considera- ble commerce. St. Thomas is an important depot for the con- traband trade with the neighbouring islands. Hayti. Hayti, formerly called Hispaniola and St. Domingo, once belonged jointly to France and Spain. It is a very fine, fertile island 400 miles in length, and 110 in breadth, having an area of 30,000 square miles, being about equal in extent to Ireland, but with a population of only one-tenth of that of the British island. In the centre rises the lofty range of the mountains of Cibao, of which the peak of La Serrania attains the height of 9000 feet. The principal productions of this island are coffee, sugar- cane, cotton, tobacco, mahogany, Campeachy wood, and lignum- vitse ; honey, wax, and various fruits. The exports and imports are each about 4,000,000 dollars annually, or about one-sixth of the amount of the trade of the French part of St. Domingo only, previous to the revolution of 1791. That event produced an extraordinary change in the con- dition of this island. The proclamation of the French assembly, that all men are free and equal, gave rise to a contest between the white and free coloured population, during the progress of which the slaves conceived that it applied to them also. They in consequence rose in a body, massacred or drove out the other two classes, and became entire masters of French St. Domingo. After the commission of numerous excesses, and various changes in government, Boyer, the present ruler, by a series of vigorous operations, not only extended his sway over all the French part of the island, but annexed to it also that belonging to Spain (1822 ;) so that the whole is now comprehended in the republic of Hayti. France in 1803 made strong efforts to regain this valuable island, but without success. At length, in 1825, a treaty was concluded, by which she acknowledged the indepen- dence of Hayti, on condition of receiving the large sum of 30,000,000 dollars, to be paid in five annual instalments. But according to a new treaty concluded in 1838, the balance belong- ing to France was fixed at 12,000,000 dollars, to be paid by the year 1863. The government of Hayti is professedly republican ; but it has been well described as practically a military democracy. The chief executive oflUcer is the president, who holds the place for life, and has a salary of 50,000 dollars per annum. There 1^ If ^^S^i^ 202 THE WEST INDIES. I'' ■'■■■ ♦• .r :. .!■■ .,'■' is a senate, the members of which hold their office for life ; and a house of representatives, chosen by the parishes for six years The revenue of the state is about 1,500,000 dollars; the expenditure is considerably more. The army amounts to 45,000 men, besides which there is a large militia force. The religion of the Haytians is Roman Catholic, but there is little attention paid to the subject, and the state of morals is described as exceedinfjly bad : other religions are tolerated. Whites are not allowed to hold landed property, or to carry arms. Port au Prince is the capital, and the chief seat of trade. It has a secure and excellent roadstead, but the country around is marshy, and, during the summer, very unhealthful. The city is built mostly of wood, its streets unpaved, and containing no remarkable edifices. The population is 15,000. Petit Goave and Jaquemel are small towns in the same department, with good harbours and some trade. Cape Haytien, formerly Cape Fran^ais Henry, is bettci- built than Port au Prince, with well- paved streets, and some handsome squares, and has a population of about 10,000. Jeremie is a place of considerable trade. St. Domingo, the capital of what was the Spanish part of the island, presents the remains of a very handsome city ; a solid and spa- cious cathedral, a large arsenal, houses in general commodious and well-built ; but it has been long in a state of decay, and is not supposed to contain now above 10,000 inhabitants. EXTENT AND POPULATION OF THE WEST INDIA ISLANDS. Cuba Porto Rico . SPANISH ISLANDS. Square miles. Population. Capital. . 43,500 725,000 Havannab. . . . 4000 325,000 St. John's. BRITISH ISLANDS. Jamaica 5520 Barbadoes 164 Trinidad 1970 Antigua 108 Grenada and the t Grenadines \ St. Vincent 121 SLKitts 68 Dominica 275 St. Lucia 275 Tobago 375,000 102,000 45,000 36,000 120 29,000 26,000 24,000 20,000 18,000 Nevis 20 Montserrat 47 Tortola 20 Barbuda 72 Anguilla 90 Bahamas 4440 Bermudas 20 120 14,000 12,000 8000 7000 3000 18,000 10,000 . Kingston. • Bridgetown. . Port Spain. . St. John's. . St. George. . Kingston. . Basse Terre. . Roseau. > Carenage. > Scarborough. Charlestown. . Plymouth. . Road Harbour* Nassau. Georgetown ^^T" SOUTH AMERICA. 203 Besides the foregoing, the small islands of Anegada, Bieque, Culebra, theCay mans, and Virgin Gorda, belong to Great Britain ; but nothing positive as to the area or population can be gi\on. FRENCH ISLANDS. Square milei. Population. Capital. Guadaloupe 675 124,000 Bassa Terre. MarUnico 290 119,000 St Pierre. St Martin, N. part . 15 6000 Mariegalante 90 11,500 Basse Terre. Deseada 25 1,500 DANISH ISLANDS. Santa Cruz 80 34,000 Christianstadt St Thomas 50 15,000 StTliomas. St John's 70 3000 SWEDISH. St Bartholomew ... 25 8000 Gustavia. DUTCH. StEustatia....... 10 20,000 The Bay. Curacoa 375 12,000 Williamstadt St Martin, S. part . 10 5000 Saba 20 900 Margarita VENEZUELA. 16,000 Pampatar. The small islands of Oruba,Buen Ayre, Orchilla and Tortuga, are part of the Little Antilles, and lie along the coast of Vene- zuela : they are all small ; some of them are uninhabited, and but little is known of the area or population. SOUTH AMERICA. South America, the southern division of the New World, is inferior in dimensions to the northern portion of the continent by almost 1,000,000 square miles : its coast is also less indented by large bays, but it presents the same tapering form to the south It is in length 4500, and in breadth 3200 miles, in the widest part, with an area of 7,050,000 square miles. Like North America, it is noted for the grandeur and diversity of its natural features. Here immense rivers roll through an extent of almost 4000 miles, and are so broad that the eye can- not reach from shore to shore. In one point are seen mountain summits reaching above the clouds, white with snows that never ^f '-J r 204 SOUTH AMERICA. melt, while their bases rear the cocoa-nut, the banana, and th** pine-apple. In some places volcanoes too numerous to be class* ed throw out smoke and flames, while in others are vast and deep forests abounding in all the grand and gigantic vegetation of tropical climates ; and again are seen almost boundless plains, extending for thousands of miles, destitute of trees, and animated by millions of wild horses and cattle which graze on them. The most extensive in range, and, with one exception, the lof- tiest mountains on the globe, extend through this continent from its northern to its southern extremity, and impart to it a charac- ter of unequalled grandeur and magnificence. The principal chain of the Andes runs from north to south, at a distance from the shore of the Pacific Ocean, varying from 100 to 200 miles, and appears to extend through the isthmus of Darien, and to be connected with the great western chain of North America. The elevation of the Andes is by no means uniform. In some places It rises to more than 25,000 feet, while in others it sinks to less than one-half that height. The whole range seems to rest upon volcanic fires, and numerous peaks are constantly burning. The main ridge of the Andes commences at the Isthmus of Oarien, and, in its progress southward, shoots up, under the Equator, into the loily summits of Chimborazo and Antisana. On reaching the elevated regions of Bolivia, it forms a vast mass, amidst whose lofty peaks tower Mount Sorata, of 25,400, and Mount Illimani, of 24,350 feet elevation, surpassing in height all the other peaks of this great chain. Passing onward between Buenos Ayres and Chili, the Andes preserve this elevation very little diminished ; but toward the most southern extreme, they fall gradually "• less than one-fourth of their greatest height, and assume an aspect dreary and desolate, in correspondence with the wintry severity of the climate. The mountains which traverse the eastern section of Brazil, south of the Amazon river, and extend, by several nearly rise parallel ranges, to the Rio de la Plata. They generally reach from 2000 to 3000 feet, and in a few cases are elevated to near 6000 feet, and are not, it is believed, in any instance, the seat of vr'canic action. The rivers of South America have undisputed claims to rank amongst the greatest on the globe, whether considered in their vast length of course, depth and breadth of stream, or in their capacity for an extensive and continuous inland navigation. Of these, the Amazon is the most important and prominent. This great stream, with its mighty branches, the Madeira, Caqueta, Rio Negro, &c., drain an extent of country estimated to equal nearly the whole of Europe. SOUTH AMERICA. 205 lass- and ation ains, nated le lof- from larac- ncipal from miles, to be . The places to less it upon ^' f nus 01 der the itisana. it mass, )0, and light all jetween an very e, they height, jndence Brazil, nearly ly reach to near (he seat to rank Jin their bn their >n. Of This ^aqueta, |o equal The immense size of the Amazon would admit of a ship na- vigation for 2400 miles, did not the rapidity of the current pre- vent it ; but it will, no doubt, at some future period, yield to the p <\vcr of steam. The boat navigation extends about 3000 miles, to the Pongo, or rapids, at Jaen, where the river passes a subor- dinate chain of the Andes. The Rio de la Plata, or Parana, opens to the ocean with an estuary of 150 miles in breadth. Its ship navigation extends to Buenos Ay res, and that for boats 1800 miles further. The Orinoco, though not equalling either the Amazon or Rio de la Plata, is nevertheless an important stream. By its means, and that of its tributary, the Meta, vessels of suitable burthen may ascend from the ocean almost to the foot of the Andes. Its entire course is not less than 1500 miles. In the abundance of the precious metals, South America sur- passes all other parts of the earth. Gold is found in many places in mines, and in the sands of the rivers. The silver mines of Peru arc among the most productive in the world. Gold, platina, and mercury, exist in various places ; and tin, copper, and other useful metals, are abundant. In Brazil, dia- monds are met with to a greater extent than in any other part of the earth ; but, though generally larger and as brilliant, they are inferior in hardness to those of India. The vegetation of South America is remarkable for its variety and its luxuriance. Cocoa, vanilla, Indian-corn, cassava, from which tapioca, or sago, is prepared, and the capsicum, whose pods yield the pungent pepper, called Cayenne, are all natives of this part of the continent. The sugar-cane, indigo, cotton, coffee, and the useful grains, wheat, rye, barley, &c., which have been introduced by Europeans, all thrive. A great variety of species of palms, equally distinguished for their beauty and size, and for their various uses, are found here. In the Brazilian forests, there are upwards of 250 kinds of wood fit for useful purposes in carpentry and dyeing. The gum-elastic, or Indian-rubber, is the milky juice of seve- ral plants found in Guiana, Brazil, and Buenos Ayres. It is obtained by making incisions through the bark, and is then spread, while in its viscous state, over a mould, and dried in a thick smoke. It is now so extensively used for making shoes and cloth, as to form an important article of commerce. The cow-tree is found in Venezuela, and derives its name from the singular fact of its juice resembling milk. When an incision is made into the trunk, the juice issues out in great abundance, and is drunk by the inhabitants. This vegetable milk does not co- agulate nor curdle like animal milk ; but in other respects has an astonishing resemblance. Peruvian bark, and a great variety of 18 H : ■ • « '•t 1 •. • '/ < ■ . .1.'.,, '' ■ f in m*h- M;^!- If./. :^J ^ J ■ 206 SOUTH AMERICA. .' 'J; useful mediciiinl, dyeing, and other productions, arc found in this quarter. South America contains a great variety of animals, many of them differing essentially from those to be met with elsewhere. Of the carnivorous, or animals of prey, the jaguar, the cougar or puma, the ocelot, and mougar, are the chief of the cat family. The lama, a useful animal, of the camel kind; the vicuna, the tapir, the peccary, resembling the domestic hog, the capibarra, the chinchilla, a kind of rat that furnishes the chinchilla fur, the coypou, resembling the beaver of the northern continent, the sloth, the agouti, the ant-eaters, the armadillo and Brazilian porcupine, and monkeys of various kinds. The jaguar, or American tiger, is a formidable animal, and is in size between the tiger and leopard of the ol4 continent. It is found from Guiana to Paraguay, and is a solitary animal, in- habiting thick virgin forests. They attack cows, and even bulls of four years old, but are especially enemies to horses. It will seldom attack man, except when strongly pressed by hunger ; instances, however, are known of persons having been seized and carried off by them. The cougar is found in different parts of South America, and is believed to be the same animal as the North American panther. The tapir, or anta, is of the size of a small cow, but without horns, and with a short naked tail ; the legs are short and thick, and the feet have small black hoofs. His skin is so thick and hard, as to be almost impenetrable to a bullet ; for which reason the Indians make shields of it. The tapir seldom stirs out but in the night, and delights in the water, where he oflener lives than on land. He is chiefly to be found in marshes, and seldom goes far from the borders of rivers or lakes. This animal is commonly found in Brazil, Paraguay, Guiana, and Colombia. The lama resembles a very small camel, is gentle and con- fiding in its manners ; its carriage is graceful, and even beautiful. They abound in great numbers from Potosi to Caraccas, and form the chief riches of the Indians and Spaniards, who rear them. Their flesh is esteemed excellent food. They are trained to carry burdens, and the strongest of them will travel with from 100 to 150 pounds weight on their backs : their pace is slow, but they are sure-footed, and ascend and descend preci- pices and craggy rocks, where even man can scarcely accom- pany them. They are mostly employed in carrying the riches of the mines to the large towns and cities. The vicuna is smaller than the lama, and is celebrated for the superior fineness of its wool. It inhabits the highest points count Th icau vultu theB of its eagle, the toi of grc ing oi of a hj «ianik T» SOUTH AMERICA. 207 in of jrc gar lily, the rra, the , the ilian nd is It is 1, in- buUs t will iger; jeized parts as the rithout :t and » thick which n stirs flener s, and This , and Id con- lutiful. Ls, and 10 rear trained i\ with )ace is preci- iccom- riches lited for points of the southern Andes, and exhibits great liveliness. The chin< chilla is a species of field rat, about the size of a guinea-pig, and is held in great estimation for the extreme fineness of its fur or wool, which is sufficiently long for spinning. This little animal is about six inches in length, and lives in burrows under ground, in the open parts of Chili, and the adjoining regions of South America. The sloth is peculiar to South America. This animal, in its wild state, spends all itb life in the trees, and never quits them but through force or accident, and lives not upon the branches but suspended under them : leaves and wild fruits constitute its food. The horse, the ass, the ox, the sheep, the goat, and the pig, were all strangers to the new world, and were brought from Europe, at an early period, by the first settlers. Some of them have increased prodigiously in every part of America ; in many places they have even regained their pristine state of savage freedom. Innumerable herds of wild oxen cover the rich savan> nahs of Brazil, Buenos Ay res, and Colombia ; and troops of horses, equally wild, are found in every part of the pampas. The horned cattle are principally valuable for their hides and tallow, which arc, for the most part, shipped to European ports, and constitute two oi' the principal commodities of South Amer- ican exportation. The ass, the sheep, the goat, and the hog, hkewise imroduced into America, both north and south, by the early European colonists, have not, with the exception of the hog in the United States, increased in the same proportion as the horse and ox. The ass is principally employed in the old Spanish and Portu- guese settlements, for the purpose of breeding mules, which are universally employed in transporting the precious metals, and possess all the wonderful sagacity in discovering and avoiding danger, and all the security of foot, which have, in all ages of the world, rendered this animal so valuable in mountainous countries. The principal birds of South America are, the rhea, or Amer- ican ostrich, the condor, the king of the vultures, the black vulture, and the turkey-buzzard ; and of the eagle family, are the Brazilian caracara eagle, the harpy eagle, the most ferocious of its species, the Chilian sea-eagle, and the vulturine caracara eagle, bearing a strong affinity to both the vulture and the eagle ; the toucans, various in form, and of superb colouring ; parrots, of great variety of size and splendour of plumage ; the burrow- ing owl, blacksmith, or bell-bird, uttering a note like the blow of a hammer upon an anvil, orioles, or hanging-birds, chatterers, manikins, humming-birds, of 100 different species, from the size m ■ I 208 SOUTH AMERICA. of a wren to that of an humblo.bee ; they are more numerous in the tropical regions of Brazil and Guiana than in any other section of the continent ; a few species are also found in North America. The rhea, or American ostrich, is smaller than the African species, and is further distinguished from it by having three toes completely developed on each foot. It is found chiefly on the pampas, or plains, of Buenos Ayres and Patagonia, from the Amazon to the straits of Magellan. This bird imparts a lively interest to a ride on the pampas. They are seen sometimes in coveys of twenty .or thirty, gliding elegantly along the gentle undulations of the plain, at half pistol-shot distance from each other, like skirmishers. The young are easily domesticated, and soon become attached to those who caress them ; but they are troublesome inmates, for, stalking about the house, they will, when fuIN^rown, swallow coin, nails, buttons, and every small article of metal within their reach. The condor is of the vulture species, and the largest of ter- restrial birds ; its wings extend from to 14 feet ; it is peculiar to the Andes, and seems to prefer the highest points, bordering on the limits of perpetual snow. Although they never attack man, yet they exhibit no fear at his approach. Their food and habits are very similar to those of the bearded vulture of Europe. The skin of the condor is so thickly clothed with down and feathers, that it is capable of withstanding musket-balls, when not closely fired, and the bird is killed with great difficulty. The king of the vulture is a smaller species than the condor ; its wings, from tip to tip, are about six feet. It is remarkable for the variety of its colours, and the bright tints of blue and vermilion which mark its naked head and neck. It is occasion- ally seen as far north as Florida. The toucans are omnivorous in their habits, feeding both upon animal and vegetable matter. Their enormous bills are light, and being vascular within, admit of a great development being given to the organs of smell ; by this power they discover the nests and eggs of other birds, which they are constantly plun- dering. One of the most remarkable fish of South America is the gym- notus, or electric eel : it possesses the singular property of stun- ning its prey by an electrical shock. This eel abounds in the rivers and lakes of the low-lands of Colombia, and is about six feet in length. The electrical shock is conveyed, either through the hand or any metallic conductor which touches the fish ; even the angler sometimes receives a shock from them, conveyed along the wetted rod and fishing-line. I1- T SOUTH AMERICA. 209 upon I light, 1 being ;r the plun- gym- stun- |in the )ut six ^ rough ; even along The most formidable reptiles of South America are the alliga* tors and serpents : three or four species of the former inhabit the rivers and lakes : of the latter are the boa constrictor, the ona* conda, and the aboma ; they are found chiefly in the swamps and fens of the tropical parts of South America : the latter is said to grow from 20 to 30 feet in length, and to be as thick as a stout man : it is indifferent as to its prey, ond destroys, when hungry, any animal that comes within its reach. The negroes consider it excellent food. Among the useful reptiles are the turtle, so highly prized by epicures, und the guana lizard, by many considered quite as great a delicacy as the turtle; its flesh is white, tender, and of delicate flavour : they are very nimble, and are hunted by dogs, and, when not wanted for immediate use, are salted and barrelled : they are found both on the continent and among the West Indian Islands. On the discovery of the New World, it was found by the Spa- niards in possession of various tribes of Indians, generoliy of a more gentle and less warlike character than those which inhab- ited North America. They were doubtless the same race, but the influence cf a Noder climate had probably subdued their vigour and courage. Disregarding all the claims of justice ond humanity, the ruthless invaders took possession of the land. Peru, a populous empire and comparatively civilized, was conquered by Pizarro, afler a series of treacherous and intrepid acts, scarcely paralleled in the history of mankind. The whole of South America fell into the hands of Europeans: Spain took possession of the west- ern, and Portugal of the eastern portion. Thus it was arranged into two great political divisions. Soon after the invasion of Spain by the French in 1808, a revolutionary spirit began to manifest itself in the Spanish colo- nies ; and, after a short time, they all, one after another, declared themselves independent and formed republican constitutions, most of which were modelled, in a great measure, upon the constitution of the United States. The people, however, were little accustomed to free institutions, and were ill prepared by character, education, and habits, to sus- tain a republican government ; and their condition since the decla- ration of independence has been, for the most part, a state of revolution, disorder, and misrule. The whole of South America is now, with the exception of Guiana, entirely independent of European control. The Spanish part is divided into a number of distinct republics, while Brazil, the part settled by the Portuguese, is a limited monarchy. 18* iR^i ti •.r' 210 SOUTH AMKKICA. p. yr "h *•' Considerable attention lius boon lately paid in some of tho iiiouth American States to education. Schools and univcrsitins liuve been established in several placQH, and knowledge is b tion were decorated with prodigious quantities of gold, silver, and precious stones, and were perhaps the most sumptuous and costly in the world ; and though numbers of them were plundered during the irregularities of that contest, yet they havo still generally a splendid appearance. The inhabitants of South America amount to about 14,000,000, and consist of nearly the same classes as those of the northern division of the continent, whites, Indians, negroes, and the mixed races ; the latter comprise mulattoes, mestizos, and zamboes. The whites are chiefly Spaniards and Portuguese, and their de- scendants; besides some English, Dutch, and French, in Guiana. The negroes are not numerous, except in Brazil and tho Euro- pean colonies of Guiana, in both of which slaves abound. In the majority of the Spanish- American States, slavery has been abol- ished. The Indians are, in part, entirely indepondftit of the govern- ments within whose limits they are nominnliy included, but in many places they form a considerable proportion of the inhabit- ants, and much of the common labour of the country is perform- ed by them. Like the Indians of North America, whom they resemble in their general physical characteristics, those of South America are composed of a great number of tribes speaking dif- ferent languages and varying dialects of the same language. EXTENT AND POPULATION OF THE SOUTH AMERICAN STATES. h ' I Stutes. Area in wj. m. Population. New Grenada. .450,000. . .1,687,000 Venezuela 430,000. . . . 900,000 Ecuador 280,000. . . . 600,000 Guiana 160.000 .... 182,000 Brazil 3,?»90,e00. . .5,000,000 North Peru . . . dOO.OOO. , . . 700,000 South Peru. . . . 130,CoO. . . 800,000 States. Arcainsq. m. Population. Bolivia 450,000. . .1,716,000 Buenos Ay res. .750,000. . . . 700,f '<• Paraguay 88,000 150,. 00 Urujfuay 92,000 75,000 Chili 170,000. . .1,500,000 Patagonia 370,000. . . . . 30.000 Total 7',05d;000 14,040,000 ea i»j mospj and high, I of i; the all Thf COLUMBIA. 311 PATES. Iiulation. a6,ooo 700,r'" 150,. '■■■ 75,0U0 500,000 30,000 1040^0 COLOMBIA. Colombia is tho name given to the cxten^Jif^^Httory of an inrlopondent state, which took the lead unong ifjt;- r^A'ly-ereated republics of what was formerly Spanish .South America, and which, under the government of the mother country, comprised the provinces or states styled the viceroyalty of New Grenada, the audicncia of Quito, and the captain-generalship of Venc/ ^^la. After renouncing the authority of Spain, a declaration ot in. dependence was inado, in the year 1611, and eight years aAer* wards a unioi >i' these states was cfiected, under the title of tho Ro(> ubliu ui ''Ijmbia: general Bolivar was chosen presi- dent, ibis confedt ration endured until the year 1631, when a sep'^ratiuu i; o the distinct republics of New Grenada, Ecuador, anil Venezuela, took place. 'I'he territories of these states correspond respectively with the old Sp(.tu»h colonial divisions above mentioned. I'hough exhibiting in some respects distinctive characters, yet it is thought advisable to describe the physical features of the whole region under tho general appellation of Colombia. This territory is bounded on the north by the Caribbean sea, south by Peru and Brazil, and west by the Pacific ocean. Its outline is probably not less than 6500 miles in extent. It ranges from north to south 1400, and from east to west 1650 miles, with an area of about 1,150,000 square miles. The surface of Colombia, its mountains and plains, are of the most varied character and on the most majestic scale, present- ing forms and phenomena among the most grand and striking that are to be found on the globe. The summits of the Andes, though less in elevation than those of the Himmaleh range in Asia, present a continuity of unbroken and gigantic steeps, per- haps not inferior in grandeur to those celebrated mountains. Chimborazo, elevated 21,730 feet above the oc«an, is tho highest mountain in Colombia, and is yet unsealed by mortal foot. Humboldt and his companions made extraordinary exer- tions to reach its summit, and arrived at about 2000 feet from tb;it point, then believed to be the greatest elevation ever attain- ed i»y man. They were enveloped in thick fogs, and in an at- mosphere of the most pirrcing cold ; they breathed with difficulty, and blood burst from the eyes and lips. Antisana, 10,400 feet high, is remarkable for H^vjnic ^ village on its side at the height of 13,500 feet, once belicTeci to be the highest inhabited spot on tho globe. The most tremendous volcanoes in the world are those which Ti' ■ ' 1 t is ', ■ ■ 1 ' 1 '■» ; 212 SOUTH AMERICA. burst from this mountain range. Cotopaxi is the most formida- ble in the Andes, and, indeed, on the globe. This mountain is 19,000 feet high, consequently more elevated than Vesuvius would be if placed upon the top of Teneriffe. In the course of the last century, it had five great eruptions, and one in 1803. In some of these it has been averred that Cotopaxi was heard at the distance of 600 miles, and that on the coast of the Pacific, at 140 miles distance, it sounded like thunder, or like the discharge of a continuous battery of cannon. From this and the other South American craters arc ejected not only the usual volcanic sub- stances, but torrents of boiling water and mud, often containing great quantities of dead fishes. Sometimes, afler successive eruptions, the undermined walls of the mountain fall in, and become a mass of tremendous ruin. Such was the fate of El Altai, which once reared its head above Chimborazo, and of another very lofty volcano, which, in 1698, fell with a similar crash. To the east, the Andes throw out a chain, called the chain of Venezuela, which runs parallel to the sea along the coast of Caraccas, as far as Cumana, leaving along the shore a plain rich in the most valuable tropical productions. The Llanos form another extensive portion of the Colombian territory, commencing where the mountain ranges terminate, and reaching east and south to the Orinoco. They consist of im- mense flats, covered with magnificent forests and vast savannahs, in which the grass often grows above the human height, cover- ing from view both man and horse. A great extent is inundated by the Orinoco and its large tributaries. The soil is fertile in the extreme ; but the unhealthiness of the climate deters settlers who are not urged by extreme necessity. Colombia contains some of the most important rivers of the western continent. The Orinoco and its various branches drain its central and eastern sections. The south is watered by the mighty Amazon, and some of its great tributaries ; while in the west, the Magdalena, now navigated by steam-boats, and the Cauca, convey some of the products of the finest and best set- tied districts of this region to the ocean. There are scarcely any lakes of importance, except, however, that of Maracaybo, which, though it communicates with the sea, yet, unless in strong winds blowing from thence, preserves its waters fresh and unmixed. There are also dispersed through- out the territory various little collections of water on the de- clivities of hills, and others formed by the expansions of rivers. This territory is capable of supplying in the utmost variety and abimdance the richest productions of the vegetable kingdom ; jea COLOMBIA. 213 rivers. and were its inhabitants active and industrious, like those of the Uni ed States and Great Britain, it would no doubt become one of the richest and most important countries in the world. The cacao of Caraccas, reckoned the best in America, is pro- duced to the amount of five million dollars. Tobacco, cotton, coffee, sugar, Peruvian bark, and indigo, all find most favour- able soils. The latter has somewhat declined, and is not pro- duced to the same amount as formerly. Wheat and other European grains are raised to some extent on the table-land of Bogota, and elsewhere in the interior, but the difficulty of com- munication between the inland districts and the coast, has ren- dered a large import of American flour into the sea-port towns necessary. The mineral treasures of Colombia are varied and extensive. The silver-mines of New Grenada yield upwards of two million dollars, yearly. Gold, platina, quicksilver, copper, and lead, with various kinds of precious stones, are also found in New Grenada ; and the republic of Ecuador yields almost the same kind of precious metals and gems. Venezuela is the least pro- ductive in minerals of any part of Colombia, yet it furnishes copper, tin, rock crystal, and lapis lazuli, which produces the superb colour called ultramarine. Salt-mines also abound. Manufactures can scarcely be said to exist in Colombia, in consequence of which commerce has a considerable activity. From the total want of domestic manufactures, almost the whole population must be clothed in foreign fabrics. The chief trade is with the United k^tates and Great Britain. The princi- pal articles shipped frorft Colombia are, coffee, sugar, cacao, hides, sarsaparilla, Peruvian bark, and indigo. The internal traffic will probably one day be immense upon the Orinoco, the Apurc, Rio Meta, and by the Cassiquiare with the Rio Negro and the Amazon : but all the regions watered by these mighty rivers are as yet little better than deserts. The Colombians retain much of the gravity, temperance, and sobriety of the Spaniards, with a share of their pride, suspicious temper, and neglect of cleanliness. A coui'tesy somewhat stately and studied prevails in their demeanour. It is not easy to gain their confidence ; but when that is once obtained, they are ex- tremely friendly and cordial. They are hospitable to foreigners, whom, from national pride, however, they regard with secret jealousy. The great mass of the people were kept in profound ignorance during the three centuries of Spanish government. Four-fifths of the inhabitants did not even learn to read or write ; and the children of the more opulent classes were only taught the most 214 SOUTH AMERICA. n . .■].„ ■4: M\ im common branches of education ; but of late years, great pro- gress has been made in all the departments of knowledge ; free ingress of books from all quarters, the establishment of news- papers and journals, and the liberty of the press which now exists, have greatly tended to enlighten the community. The amusements of Colombia are chiefly borrowed from the mother country. Dancing is passionately practised, in the seve- ral forms of the fandango, the bolero, and the Spanish country- dance. Bull and cock-Hghting are equally favourite sports, and tend to keep alive that ferocity which is the main blemish in the moral character of the Spaniards. The races are as numerous and as variously crossed as in Mexico. The negro maintains his place in the scale of human- ity ; and the mulattoes, Paez and Padilla, have ranked among the foremost of the heroes who achieved the national indepen- dence. Of the native Indian tribes within this territory, the Caribs are the ruling people. They inhabit the plains of the Orinoco, and were once found in the West Indies. The islanders, now nearly extinct, are represented to have been cannibals ; and the tribes of the continent are distinguished for their fierceness and warlike propensities. The Ottomacs, another tribe living upon the Orinoco, present the singular spectacle of mud-eaters, the mud of that river forming, during the inundation, their prin- cipal food. The Guarones are a social hospitable tribe, who inhabit the numerous islands in the Delta of the Orinoco, and act as pilots. During floods they lodge in dwellings suspended from the trees. ■i:!.' NEW GRENADA. New Grenada, comprising the Spanish viceroyalty of that name, is the most populous and powerful of the Colombian Re- publics. It is not wholly a South American state, a small per tlon of its territory extending westward from the Isthmus of Darien into North America. This state is bounded on the north by the Caribbean Sea, south by the Republic of Ecuador, east by Venezuela, and west by the Pacific Ocean. It includes an area of 450,000 square miles, and contains a population estimated at 1,687,000 souls. New Grenada is divided into five departments, which are subdi- vided into eighteen provinces. mos f thar havi and tcm disc N£W GRENADA. Departments. Capitals. Isthmus Panam& Magdalena Carthagena . . . . Boyaca Tunja Cundinamarca Bogotd . Cauca 215 Population. ..10,000 ..18,000 400 .30,000 .Popayan 20,000 Bogota, the capital of New Grenada, is situated on a high ta- ble-land, 8000 feet above the level of the sea. This plain, though under the equator, has the climate of Britain, without its change of seasons, the perpetual temperature being that of spring or au- tumn, and the thermometer seldom falling below 47° or rising above 70°. The surrounding country is distinguished for its fertility, yield- ing two crops in the year of the principal European grains. It is hemmed in by lofty mountains, rugged precipices, roaring torrents, and frightful abysses. The city was founded in 1538, by Quesada, and for a time rapidly increased : it is now supposed to contain 30,000 inhabitants. Many of its churches are not only splendid, but built with some taste ; and their numerous spires, amid the grandeur of the surrounding scenery, give it a fine appearance. It contains an university and archiepiscopal see, and carries on a considerable trade in cotton goods, hides, and grain. The scenery of the plain of Bogota is marked by many strik- ing and picturesque features. Among these are particularly con- spicuous the Fall of Tequendama and the natural bridges of Ico- nonzo. The first is formed by the river Bogota. Its mass of waters, previously spread to a considerable breadth, are contract- ed to forty feet, and dashed down a precipice 650 feet high, into an almost fathomless abyss. The bridge of Icononzo is a natu- ral arch across a chasm 360 feet deep, at the bottom of which flows a rapid torrent, which would have been otherwise impas- sable. Honda, the port of Bogotd, is situated on the Magdalena river, about 55 miles north-west from the capital : it carries on a considerable trade, with a population of about 10,000 inhabit- ants. The town has some good buildings ; the climate is hot but not unhealthful, and the banks of the river are infested with mosquitoes. Popayan is a handsome city, built more regularly and elegantly than Santa Fe, and inhabited by many opulent merchants, who have suffered severely by the revolution. Its site is picturesque, and the climate delicious, notwithstanding the frequent rains and tempests. It enjoys a considerable trade in European merchan- dise, which it receives from Carthagena, and distributes to Quito lU 210 SOUTH AMERICA. ^^'f '■if: rl; ^ .u f'r. I '■i&' and other neighbouring districts, together with the products of its fertile soil. Pasto is a considerable town, and the inhabitants manufacture a peculiar species of cabinet-work with taste and elegance. It is surrounded by volcanoes, and is accessible only through rug- ged and narrow passes. Previous to 1834, when it was nearly destroyed by an earthquake, its population amounted to 10,000. Carthagena, long considered by the Spaniards as the bulwark of their possessions in America, has lost much of its former im- portance. The fortifications are considerably decayed, yet it is the chief arsenal of the republic. The packet-ships whicli main- tain the intercourse with Europe and the United States, sail to and from Carthagena ; and it absorbs most of the commerce of the Magdalena and its tributaries. Its population is supposed to amount to about 18,000. Turbaco, a little Indian village in the vicinity, to which the wealthy Carthagenians retire in the hot season, is distinguished by the curious phenomenon of the volcancitos (little volcanoes,) consisting of about 20 cones, from 20 to 25 feet high, whence issue constant eruptions of gas, sometimes accompanied with mud and water. Mompox, in the province of the same name, derives some im- portance from its population of 10,000 souls. Rio Hacha is a small town with a harbour, and once the seat of a pearl-fishery, which never proved very successful. Farther west is Santa Martha, situated in a country pervaded by a de- tached range of lofty mountains. It has a good harbour, is strongly fortified, and carries on considerable trade. Its popu- lation is about 6,000 souls. Panama and Porto Bello, on the opposite sides of the isthmus, bore a great name in America, when they were the exclusive channel by which the wealth of Peru was conveyed to the mo- ther country. Within the last fifty years, however, these places have both greatly declined. Panama is still a fortified place, and carries on some trade. It contains a beautiful cathedral, four monasteries, now deserted, and other large buildings, and maintains a population of 10,000. Porto Bello, so called from its fine harbour, is in a state of decay, and its pestilential climate has given it the name of the grave of Europeans. It is now in- habited only by a kw negroes and mulattoes. Here was once held the richest fair in America, but its trade is now chiefly re- moved to Chagres, a miserable little town with 1000 inhabitants. There have been, from time to time, various projects for the construction of a canal, or a rail-road, so as to unite the Atlan tic and Pacific oceans at this narrow neck of land. But the po- wit VENEZUELA. 217 litical state of the country is as yet somewhat unsettled ; and hence capitalists are deterred from advancing the necessary funds. At some more propitious period, when affairs shall be permanently tranquillized, doubtless such a communication will be opened. -^ VENEZUELA. The republic of Venezuela, consisting of the former cap- taincy-general of Caraccas, to which was attached the exten- sive tract known under the name of Spanish Guiana, extends from the Orinoco to the gulf of Venezuela. It stretches over an area of 420,000 square miles, and is divided into four de- partments, which are subdivided into 12 provinces, with a population estimated at about 900,000. Departments. Capitals. Orinoco Varinas . . . Maturin Cumana . . Venezuela Caraccas . . Zulia Maracaybo Population. ,. 3,000 . . 10,000 . . 23,000 . . SO.OOO This republic comprises the most extensive part of Colombia , a range of mountains, the north-eastern chain of the Andes, ex- tends from New Grenada along the whole of the north coast. It is known by the name of the Cordillera of Caraccas or Ven- ezuela ; and some of its summits attain an elevation of 18,000 feet. The chief part of this region, however, forms a plain of immense extent, reaching to a great distance southward. It is divided into three parts, distinguished by the most marked con- trasts both natural and social. The first comprises the forest territory beyond the Orinoco. It exists in an entirely unsub- dued and savage state, peopled by the Caribs and other tribes, who roam from place to place, and wage almost continual war with each other. The second part consists of the Llanos, boundless plains, where the eye, in the compass of a wide horizon, often does not discover an eminence of six feet. Like the Pampas of La Plata, they are covered with the most luxuriant pastures, on which it is estimated 1,200,000 oxen, 180,000 horses, and 90,000 mules are fed. Some of the great proprietors possess from 10,000 to 20,000 head of cattle. The export of the hides of these animals forms one of the principal branches of the commerce of Venezuela. The third division, consisting of a coast about 600 miles long, 19 'I] ■'1 ;!|t 218 SOUTH AMERICA. hh 4i ■ and the territory immediately between it and the mountains, includes all that exhibits any degree of culture or civilization. Here the West India products, and particularly cacao of superior quality, are cultivated to a considerable extent ; and a trade is carried on, which, though interrupted by the revolutionary war and other calamities, is likely, in periods of tranquillity, to be re- vived and extended. Caraccas, situated a few miles from the coast, has always been the capital of Venezuela, and previous to 1812 was a very large city, containing above 40,000 inhabitants. On the 26th of March, it was overthrown by one of the most dreadful eai th- quakes recorded in either hemisphere. Several of the loftiest churches fell, burying 3000 or 4000 of the inhabitants, and they were so completely destroyed, that none of the fragments were more than five or six feet alove the ground. Nearly 10,000 persons perished on the spot, besides many more who died af- terwards, in consequence of wounds and privations. The agi- tation of the revolutionary contest obstructed the revival of Caraccas, and in 1830 it did not contain above 23,000 ihhabi- tants. La Guayra, about twelve miles from Caraccas, of which it is the port, notwithstanding its unhealthful climate and bad har- bour, is the seat of a very considerable trade. Similar disasters have reduced it from a population of 13,000 to scarcely 6000 ; but it is now reviving. Several laige cities occur on the long line of coast which ex- tends westward from Caraccas. Valencia flourishes in conse- quence of the fine interior territory, the trade of which is con- ducted through it ; and it is supposed to maintain a population of about 15,000. Its port, about ten leagues distant, called Puerto Cabello, has an admirable harbour, but is extremely un- healthful. Coro, once the capital of Venezuela, having lost that distinction, and a great part of its trade, is now much de- cayed; yet it contains a population of 20,000. Maracaybo contains many descendants of the early conquerors, who live in proud indolence. The rest of the inhabitants gain wealth by traffic ; and the whole are supposed to be about 20,000. Cumana, situated on an extensive and fertile plain, to the east- ward of Caraccas, is bounded by a curtain of rude mountains covered by luxuriant forests. Numerous herds run wild on its savannahs ,* and in the plain on the coast very fine tobacco is cultivated. It has a /ery spacious and noble harbour, and the gulf on«!which it is situated affords good anchorage. Mules, cattle, and provisions, are exported to the West Indies. The in- habitants amount to 10,000. Cumana has suffered dreadfully clir ECUADOR. 219 by earthquakes. New Barcelona, to the westward of Curnana, on an extensive plain overrun by wild cattle, carries on a simi- lar trade, which supports a population of about 5000. In the island of Margarita is the little town of Pampatar, which has been declared a free port. The great plains in the interior of Venezuela and on the Orinoco, possessing neither manufactures nor commerce, cannot contain cities of any magnitude; yet Varinaswas reckoned a neat and handsome place, and, notwithstanding severe losses during the revolutionary war, has still 3000 inhabitants. San Fernando derives some importance from the commerce of the Apure, on which it is situated. Angostura, the otily city yet founded on the Orinoco, notwithstanding recent losses, is still about equal to Varinas, and is the seat of a bishop and a college. ECUADOR. The republic of Ecuador, cx)mprising the old Spanish presi- dency of Quito, which was annexed to the vice-royalty of New Grenada, in 1718, lies on both sides of the equator. The civil- ized part of the population is confined to the western coast and the valleys of the Andes, while the eastern portion of the terri- tory is occupied by independent tribes of Indians. This state is bounded north by New Grenada, south by Peru, east by Brazil, and west by the Pacific ocean. The area is about 280,000 square miles. It is divided into three departments, which are subdivided into eight provinces, with a population of about 600,000. Departments. Capitals. Population. Ecuador Quito 70,000 Guayaquil Guayaquil 20,000 Assuay Cuen^a 20,000 The department of the Ecuador forms the finest table-plain in all America. It has an average breadth of about thirty miles, enclosed botwecn two parallel ranges of the loftiest Andes. The climate is that of a perpetual spring, at once benign and equal, and even during the four months of rain, the mornings and evenings are clear and beautiful. Vegetation never ceases ; the country is called the evergreen Quito ; the trees and meadows are crowned with perpetual verdure. The European seiriis. Somo valuable dyo-woods* and modicinnl plants uro also pro- duced, |)articularly the Peruvian bark or Cascarilln. Wine and brandy are made to some extent, but wheat and Hour arc import, cd from Chili. Manufactures are in a barkward stale. In the mountain dis. tricts are made considerable quantities of coarse woollens, blank- ets, flannels, baize, and particularly ponchos, a loose riding-cloak, generally worn throughout Spanish America, and sonr.otimos made of great fineness. A few towns on the coast manufacture cottons. Goat-skins are made into good cordovan. The Indians execute very fine filigree-work in gold and silver, and their mats and other articles of furniture made from grass and rushes are very much admired. In general, however, the Peruvians look to Europe for a supply of all the finer manufactures. The commerce of Peru, though much depressed during the contest with Spain, is reviving, and is carried on to some extent. It consists for the most part of the export of gold, silver, copper, and tin, with some bark, cotton, sugar, vicuna wool, Aic. The imports consist of a variety of articles of European manufacture. English goods are generally preferred, and almost all kinds find u ready sale. The religion, as in every country over which Spain ever reign- ed, is exclusively Catholic. Many of the churches in Peru are very splendid, and immense wealth has been accumulated by several of the convents, from pious donations. The archbishop of Lima is the head of the church in P(?ru, and also in Bolivia, Chili, and part of Colombia. There are many curates in tho interior districts, and some missionaries are stationed amongst the independent Indian tribes. Literature is not in so utterly depressed a state at Lima as in the other cities to the south of the Isthmus of Daricn. Besides several colleges, there is a highly-endowed university, founded in 1549, on the model of that of Salamanca. The professors do not deliver lectures ; but examinations and disputations are main- tained with considerable diligence. The amusements consist of the theatre, which, at Lima, is tol- erably conducted ; bull-fights, cock-fights, and religious proces- sions ; and the rage for public diversions is extreme. The population of Peru consists of the various races usually found in South America ; — whites, Indians, negroes ; and the mixed races, — mulattoes, mestizos, and zamboes. The creolo or white population, is usually described in less flattering terms than the same class in almost any of the other South Amer^fin ' '3» HI 'm If 226 SOUTH AxMERICA. Il ;'■:' ' ,Hf states. The males, especially of Lima, are said to be destitute of all energy, both mental and bodily, so that notwithstanding the extensive trade of the country, very little is carried on by native Peruvians. Those engaged in it are chiefly foreigners, many of whom are natives of Chili and Buenos Ayres. The ladies, from their earliest years, are led to consider them- selves as the objects of admiration and homage, and a system of coquetry and flirtation is established. Gaming prevails also among both sexes to a destructive extent, and families are ex- tremely ill-managed. Yet the Peruvians are courteous, humane, hospitable, and generous. In the country, these amiable quali- ties are combined with equal merit, but with a greater degree of simplicity. The ancestors of the present Indians of Peru were the Qui- chuas, the most civilized nation of South America at the time of the arrival of the Spaniards. According to their traditions, arts, laws, and religion had If en introduced among them by Manco Capac, the child of the sun, whose descendants still reigned over /.he country under the title of Incas. There are yet many remarkable monuments remaining of this interesting people, such as roads, canals, temples, palaces, for- tresses, &c. They were acquainted with the arts of mining, of working in gold and silver, of polishing precious stones, manu- facturing cloth, &c. Although ignorant of alphabetic writing, they preserved the memory of remarkable events, laws, treaties, &c., by means of symbolical paintings, and of quipos or knotted cords of various colours, which expressed different ideas. PERU-BOLIVIAN CONFEDERATION. The states of North Peru, South Peru, and Bolivia were uni- ted in the year 1836, for the purpose of general security and pro- tection, into a league or union, styled the Peru-Bolivian Confed- eration. Each state is independent in its local concerns ; is controlled by the acts of its own legislature, and governed by its own Pre- sident ; but for the regulation of afliiirs with foreign nations and other general purposes, the confederation is placed under the government of a chief, called the Supreme Protector, and a gen- eral congress of plenipotentiaries from the three states. General Santa C:uz, president of Bolivia, was chosen Supreme Protector of this new republic ; but his government was scarcely organized when it was embarrassed by ^ revolution, which broke tuc NORTH PERU. 227 out in Lima in July, 1838, against the confederation. In the following month, a Chilian expedition landed at Callao and cap- tured Lima. General Santa Cruz, in the mean time, hastened with an army from Bolivia for the purpose of repelling the in- vaders ; but he was opposed, and completely defeated by them, at Yungay, in North Peru, January 20th, 1839. The Supreme Protector escaped from the field with an escort of only 20 men, arrived at Lima the following day, and has since lefl the country. The government of the Union, during its brief existence, had effected treaties of amity and commerce with the United States and Great Britain ; the former of which was ratified by the Pre- sident and Congress of the United States. Though no official announcement of the termination of the government of this con- federacy has been publicly made, yet it is supposed to be, if not actually dissolved, at least suspended. trolled n Pre- ns and ler the a gen- NORTH PERU. North Peru contains rather more than two-thirds of the territory which formed the republic of Peru previous to the year 1836 ; and in consequence of the formation of the four southern departments into a separate state, has assumed its present dis- tinctive title. It comprises almost 1000 miles of sea-coast, and extends into the interior from 500 to 800 miles : it has an area of about 300,000 square miles, with a population of 700,000. A large portion of the east part 6f this republic is unsettled and even unexplored by Europeans, being still in the possession of the aborigines, of whom many of the tribes are stated to be exceed- ingly savage, and some of them cannibals. The republic U divided into three departments, which are sub- divided into provinces. Departments. Capitate. Population. Tnucillo, or Libertad Truxillo 12,000 Lima Lima 70,000 Junin Tarma 5,000 Lima, next to Mexico the most splendid city of Spanish America, is situated about six miles in the interior, from its port of Callao, and is surrounded by a wall of brick and clay, twelve feet high. The houses run in straight lines, dividing the city into a multi- tude of squares of variouji forms and dirtiensions. The plaxa m 228 SOUTH AMERICA. It. Vx i B\' mi I ■: i'' or principal square, is, as in most Spanish cities, surrounded by all the finest edifices. The cathedral is an elegant building, with a stone front, and two towers of considerable height ; and the interior, particularly the great altar, is, or at least was, exceedinlgy rich. There are twenty-five convents in Lima, with churches attached to them ; and fifteen nunneries. The convent of St. Francisco, with its appendages, is the most extensive, and, though not so rich, is more elegant than the cathedral. An immense treasure in the precious metals was contained in these establishments ; but during the disorders of the civil contests the gold and silver of the church were made to give place to less precious metals, though the base materials substituted have been carefully gilded over. The population of Lima is about 70,000. Callao, communicating with Lima by a very fine road, has an excellent harbour formed by two islands. The forts by which it is defended are handsome and strong ; and Callao itself is a considerable town, with 6000 inhabitants. On the coast to the north of Lima is Truxillo, a handsome little town, a miniature of Lima, and built in the same gay style. By its port of Guanchaco, which has a tolerable roadstead, Truxillo sends the produce of its territory to Lima, and receives foreign manufactured goods in return. It contains about 12,000 inhabitants. Sanna is the seat of a considerable trade ; and Lambayeque, to the north of Truxillo, is the most thriving place between Lima and Guayaquil. Piura, still farther north, is gen- erally accounted the most ancient city in South America, though it is not exactly on the site of the city founded by Pizarro. Payta is a commodious and well-frequented sea-port, which is often visited by American whale-ships. It being in a complete desert of sand, potable water is brought from a distance of twelve miles, and sold at a high price. Caxamarca is distinguished as having contained a palace of the ancient Incas, and being the spot where Atahualpa, the last of the dynasty, fell by the svvord of Pizarro. In the neighbour- hood are also the remains of a vast mass of building, constructed of ponderous stones, in the Peruvian fashion, and capable of containing 5000 persons. Caxatambo and Huaura contain each about 7000 inhabitants. Tarma has about 5000 inhabitants ; and here is a considerable manufacture of baize. The town of Cerro Pasco is situated among the Andes, at an elevation of 13,000 feet above the level of the sea. It is a cold, dirty, uncomfortable place ; but has lately increased in popula- tion, in consequence of a renewed activity in the working of the mines, which are the most important in Peru. ;'i:i^'' SOUTH PERU !^29 SOUTH PERU. The republic of South Peru is a recent state, having sepa- rated itself from North Peru, in the year 1836. Its indepen- dence was declared March 16th of the same year, at Sicuana, a small town in the interior. The continual revolutions and politi- cal contentions of which Peru has been for many years the victim, and the contradictory measures pursued by that state and Bolivia in their commercial relations with each other, are stated to have been the chief motives which led to a separation. This state comprises four of the seven departments which be- longed to Peru, and although less in extent than the northern division, is undoubtedly the most thickly peopled. It is bound- ed on the north by North Peru, south and east by Bolivia, and west by the Pacific ocean. Length 600 miles, breadth from 60 to 400 ; area 130,000 square miles. Population, 800,000. Departments. Capitals. Population. Departments. Capitals. Population. Arequipa Arequipa .... 24,000 I Cuzco Cuzco .... 32,000 Ayacucho .... Guamanga . . . 16,000 | Puno Ptino 18,000 South Peru has a coast, on the Pacific ocean, of about 700 miles in extent ; along which are a number of small sea-ports, including those called the Intermedios. The country in the vicinity of the coast is in many places a desert and destitute of water, and can be traversed only with the same precautions as are necessary in crossing the deserts of Africa. Along the banks of streams, and where the soil can be watered, vegetation is very abundant ; the produce is mostly sugar, wine, brandy, and oil. Cuzco, the capital of South Peru, was the metropolis of the ancient empire of the Incas, and at the time of the conquest by the Spaniards was a magnificent city ; though much decayed, it is still handsome, and even splendid. The cathedral is de- scribed as a noble pile. The Dominican church has been built from the materials of the ancient temple, on the same site, and the altar has taken the place of the image of that deity. On an eminence are the walls of the fortress of the Incas, raised to a great height, and built of truly astonishing masses of stone. Cuzco contains 32,000 inhabitants, of whom three-fourths are pure Indians. Arequipa is a large city, considerably In the interior, in an agreeable and healthful climate. The population has been esti- mated at 24,000. Arequipa has stood, notwithstanding shocks of earthquakes repeaied three or four times in each century. Near it is a great volcano, whence arise clouds of ashes, which 20 ' ,r'. Ih 230 SOUTH AMERICA. reach even to the ocean. Islay, its sea-port, is only a village. Arica was originally a port of considerable importance; but since the earthquake of 1605 it has been in a great measure de- serted, and the chief part of the population has emigrated to Tacna, which is a thriving town, about thirty miles in the inte- rior, employing extensive droves of mules to carry the merchan- dise landed at Arica into the provinces beyond the Andes. Moquehua, another interior place, is chiefly noted for the good wine produced in its district. Guamanga, situated about half-way between Lima and Cuzco, is built of stone, and adorned with handsome public places and squares. It has an university of royal foundation, richly endow- ed, and contains 16,000 inhabitants. Guancavelica is bleak and cold, only distinguished for the rich mines of mercury, which once rendered it a flourishing place ; but these have so much de- clined, that the population is reduced to 5000. The little village of Ayacucho, which gives name to one of the departments of South Peru, was the theatre of the victory which (1824) delivered South America from the Spanish yoke. Puno, situated on the west bank of lake Titicaca, is a town of some note, containing a college, and 18,000 inhabitants. "1 BOLIVIA. The republic of Bolivia was established in 1825, and was named after general Bolivar, the liberator of South America. The territories included in this state, commonly called Upper Peru, were detached from the vice-royalty of Peru and annexed to that of the Rio de la Plata in 1778, and were tonally wrested from the dominion of Spain by the victory of Ayacucho, De- cember 1824, in which the Colombians defeated the Spaniards. Bolivia is bounded on the north by Brazil and North Peru, south by Buenos Ayres, east by Brazil and Paraguay, and west by South Peru and the Pacific ocean. It extends from east to west 800 miles, and almost the same distance from north to south ; having an area of about 450,000 square miles. This region contains the loftiest mountain peaks in the New World, and which are inferior in elevation only to those of the Himmaleh range in Asia. Mount Sorato has been found to at- tain the height of 25,400 feet, and that of Illimani 24,350. The very elevated table-land from which these colossal summits rise, appears to have prevented tlieir extraordinary elevation from be- coming sensible till it was determined by a recent measurement. K?a BOLIVIA. 231 This lofty plain, which seems to comprise a large portion of the territory of Bolivia, though not the most elevated, appears to be among the most fruitful on the globe. It yields copious harvests of rye, Indian-corn, barley, potatoes, and even wheat. It has cities above the region of the clouds, villages which would over- look the summits of the Pyrenees, and cottages as high as the top of Mont Blanc. The chief rivers of Bolivia are the Branco and Mamore, head branches of the Madeira; and the Pilcomayo, which flows into the Paraguay. The navigation on these streams is very trifling, and in no case it is believed has any communication by them with the ocean been attempted. Lake Titicaca forms part of the western boundary of Bolivia. It is 180 miles long, is very irregular in its outline, and is subject to violent storms and gusts of wind. It has no visible outlet, and is elevated 12,500 feet above the sea. The water of this lake is turbid and disagreeable to the taste, but abounds in fish, and the shores are populous, being well settled with numerous vil' lages. This lake is navigated by boats made of rushes closely plaited together : the mast and rudder alone are made of wood, which, owing to the scarcity of that article in this region, forms the most valuable part of the vessel. Bolivia is interesting from the variety, extent, and value of the minerals it aflbrds. Gold is found in considerable quantities in the mountainous districts,but hitherto it has not been extensively mined, and the greater part of the gold procured here is obtained by washing the sands of the rivers. Silver is the principal me- tallic production, and has conferred on this country its greatest celebrity. The rich mountain of Potosi is famous for the wealth it has produced: it has had no equal for abundance of ore in the world. The mountain rises to the height of 16,000 feet; is 18 miles in circumference; and though it has been constantly worked sincb its discovery, yet it is only honey-combed as it were at the sur- face. Ore still lies at a somewhat greater depth, but it is in many places overflowed with water. This mine yielded, from the time it was first opened, until 1803, a period of 2.58 years, at the rate of six million dollars annually. During the revolution many of the workmen were withdrawn and nearly all the capital employed in the business exhausted, in consequence of which th' operations of mining were so much retarded that for the ten years ending in 1829, the average yearly product of the whole mountain did not amount to 400,000 dollars : the business has, however, been since resumed with more activity. if I i} 1 i i,"< 232 SOUTH AMERICA. W\ it W 1:^ This mine was discovered in the year 1545 by an Indian, who in pursuing some goats grasped a bush in his ascent, the roots of which giving way disclosed to his view a rich vein of silver ore. There are also silver-mines at Portugalete, La Plata, Porco, Lipes, and Caranga. Bolivia is divided into seven departments which are subdivided into provinces. The population of the whole is 1,716,000, of which more than one million are Indians. Departments. Population. Potosi 320,000 Chuquisaca 246,000 Cochabamba 510,000 La Paz 420,000 Santa Cruz 100,000 Moxo8 70,000 Chiquitos 50,000 Total 1,716,000 Capitals. Population. Polosi 9,000 Chuquisaca 12,000 Cochabamba 30,000 La Paz 40,000 Santa Cruz de la Sierra .... 9,000 The capital of Bolivia is Chuquisaca, or La Plata, so named from the silver-mines in its vicinity. It is a handsome city, con- taining about 12,000 inhabitants. Notwithstanding its astonish- ing elevation, the country around is fertile and luxuriant. Here is a university numerously attended, and a library, said to be the best in South America. La Paz, with a population of 40,000, is the chief city of Bo- livia, and is surrounded by the most interesting objects in that country. A few miles to the north are Illimani and Sorata, both already described as the highest mountains in the New World. At some distance north-west is the great lake of Titicaca, the largest in South America. Potosi enjoys the greatest fame of any city in this region, but retains few traces of the wealth which gained for it this cele- brity. It is probably the most elevated city in the world, being 13,000 feet above the sea, and consequently higher than the Peak of Teneriffe. It is not a well-built town ; the streets are narrow and irregular, and most of the houses indifferent. It has, however, a college and a mint. Reports vary greatly l)oth as to its pa U and present population. The assertion that, in its most flourishing state, it ever contained 160,000 people, is probably much exaggerated. It now has 9000 inhabitants. There are some other considerable places in this region. Oruro has not more than 4000 or 5000 inhabitants ; but the mines in its vicinity were once important. Cochabamba, in the midst of a fertile, well-cultivated teiritory, carries on a great trade in grain, fruits, and vegetables. It is said to contain 30,000 inha- bitants. CHILI. 233 Santa Cruz do la Sierra, situated in the easternmost part of the Republic, is a meanly-built town, with a population of about 9000. Large tracts in this quarter are occupied by the Moxos and Chiquitos, Indian tribes nearly independent, unless so far as the mis..ionaries have reclaimed them from their savage habits. Bolivia, in its small extent of coast, has only one port, that of Cobija or Puerto de la Mar, which labours under a deficiency of fresh water : the Bolivians are obliged at present to receive almost all foreign commodities across the mountains, by way of Arica. CHILI. Chili consists of a long narrow tract of countr_, , situated between the Andes and the Pacific ocean. It is bounded on the north by Bolivia, south by Patagonia, east by Buenos Ayres, and west by the Pacific ocean. It is in length about 1200 miles, and from 100 to 200 miles wide ; with an area of about 170,000 square miles, and a . jpulation of 1,500,00Q. The climate of this country is remarkably salubrious and healthful. In the northern provinces it seldom rains, but the deficiency is supplied by the dews, w.iich are very heavy during spring, summer, and autumn. Snow falls abundantly on the Andes, but is never seen on the coast. The soil is in general highly productive, particularly in the valleys amongst the moun- tains. The northern provinces yield various tropical productions; and the southern the grains, fruits, and vegetables, of temperate regions. The great chai.i of the Andes traverses the country through its whole extent, and presents a number of elevations, whose height is probably not less than 20,000 feet, which are covered with perpetual snow for several thousand feet below their sum- mits. The sides of these mountains are generally fertile and beautiful ; rich foliage and verdure, with exuberant pastures, extend even to the borders of the frost and snow ; and many of the upper valleys present such romantic and enchanting scenes, that Chili has been called the Italy of South America. The rivers of Chili are numerous, but small, and have gene- rally a rapid current, and a short course, as they descend from elevated regions. The Maule and Biobic are navigable for a limited distance. The chief misfortune of this country is, that it is not secure beneath the feet of the inhabitants. Repeated earthquakes have 20* m 234 SOUTH AMKUICA. I ;f .: :i" '"i- " ^ k I- If ^ig^ !■; ■<:■ ;[;., laid the cities in ruin, and from time to time shocks are felt, which, even when slight, are rendered dreadful by recollection and anticipation. There are said to be fourteen active volcanoes in Chili, besides several that are occasionally, or constantly, discharging smoke. Agriculture is extensively, but rudely, carried on in this country, yet the produce is abundant. Wheat of fine quality, and other grains, with potatoes, garden vegetables, and fruits of various kinds, grow in perfection. A good deal of wine is made, though not of the first excellence ; and cattle are raised to a great extent ; the horses are small, but beautiful, and of fine temper and spirit, and the oxen and mules are equal to any in the world. Chili is rich in mineral productions. Gold, silver, copper, quicksilver, tin, and iron, abound. The principal mines occur in the interior from Coquimbo, in a barren tract in the northern part of the country. The mines of copper are the most nume- rous and productive, the annual amount of that metal being about 750,000 dollars, and of gold and silver 650,000 dollars. The manufactures, as over all South America, consist of coarse articles, made by the country people for domestic use, with the simplest instruments. They bring to market ponchos, hats, shoes, coarse earthenware, and sometimes jars of fine clay. This republic is the only American state, formerly subject to Spain, whose commerce is supposed to have increased since the separation from the mother country. The chief trade is with the United States and Great Britain. The principal articles of export are, gold, silver, copper, and hides ; besides which the Chilians send wheat and flour to Peru ; and, notwithstanding the formidable obstacles opposed by the Andes, they also carry on a considerable trade with Buenos Ayres. The Catholic religion has hitherto reigned in Chili with the same supremacy as in the other states, and continues to be the exclusive system. Protestants are allowed to reside in the coun- try without molestation ; but are not permitted the public exer- cise of their religion. Many of the religious shows and pro- cessions of the Catholic church have been suppressed, a change not altogether agreeable to the body of the people, who are thus deprived of one of their favourite amusements. Knowledge, in Chili, is beginning to disperse some of the ignorance which prevailed. The press, unl'nown before the revolution, has been introduced ; and schools, on the Lancas- terian plan, have been established in the principal towns. The only fine art cultivated with any ardour by the Chilians is music, their application to which is truly indefatigable ; the girls being set down to it almost from infancy, and having constant practice .. I. CHILI. ^35 of the ore the ancas- The music, s being practice at their evening parties. The importation of piano-fortes is said to be immense. They do not play with consummate science, but with considerable feeling and taste. The social state of Chili differs sc cely a shade from that of the rest of South America. There is the same native courte- ousness, politeness, kindne'=;8 of heart, ignorance, extravagant love of diversion, and abje^^t superstition. The ladies often can neither write nor read ; but travellers join in praising their natural talents, and the unstudied grace of their manners ; and some conceive the general deportment of those in the higher ranks to be almost unexceptionable. The country situated south of the Biobio river is mhabited by the Aricaunians, the most powerful and warlike of all the Indian nations in the southern part of the continent. They are more intelligent and cultivated than any existing tribe of natives, and possess r.ome good qualities which are, however, sullied by their pronencss to drunkenness and debauchery. They have ac- quired many of the arts necessary to subsistence ; and exhibit a degree of literary taste, which is scarcely found in any of the other natives. They have maintained their independence by a series of bloody wars with the Spaniards for three hundred years. The Aricaunians are divided into several tribes, governed by hereditary chiefs, who are all subject to a general, elected for that purpose in time of war. They have lately entered into a treaty with the republican government, and have agreed to a species of political union, though a long interval must elapse before this can be completely effected. The island of Chiloe is the southernmost province of Chili. It is in length, from north to soulli, 140 miles, and in the widest part about 60 miles broad. The inhabitants are, in appearance, like northern Europeans, manly, athletic, robust, and iresh coloured. The productions are, wheat, barley, potatoes, and most kinds of European vegetables and fruits. The island swarms with hogs : its hams are celebrated, and are exported in considerable quantities. Tne principal towns are St. Carlos, the capital, and Castro; they have good harbours, in which vessels of any burthen may anchor with perfect safety. The islands of Juan Fernandez, claimed by Chili, consist of two small islands, called Mas-a-Tierra, and Mas-a-Fuero. The former is so diversified by lody hills, streams, and varied vege tation, that it has been described as one of the most enchanting spots on the globe. It was early noted as being the solitary residence of Alexander Selkirk, during several years ; an event upon which Defoe founded his celebrated narrative of Robinson i1 t 836 SOUTH AMERICA. I: J'l', V ■>■ I ; 'V' V. Crusoe. This island has been used by the Chilians as a place for confining convicts; but was recently granted to n North American merchant, who proposes to make it a dcp6t for sup- plying trading and whaling vessels with provisions. Chili corresponds to the old Spanish captaincy-generalship of the same name, which continued to be governed as a Spanish province until the year 1810, when the people threw off the yoke of the mother country. In 1818 Chili was declared inde- pendent ; in 1824 it was divided into eight provinces, which are subdivided into districts. Provinci'8. Cliicr TownH. Population. Provinces. Cliiof Towns. Population. Santia;ro .... Santiago .... 50,000 Aconcagua . . San Felipe . . 5,000 CoquimDo . . . Coquimbo . . . 10,000 Colchagua . . Curico 2,000 Maule Cauquones .... 2,000 Concepcion . . Conccpcion . . . 8,000 Valdivia Valdivia 3,000 Chiloo San Carlos Santiago, the capital, is situated in a richly wooded plain, about sixty miles from Valparaiso, at an elevation of 2600 feet above the sea, which renders the climate agreeable and salubri- ous. The houses having, in general, only one floor, and being surrounded by large gardens, the town appears entirely over- shadowed with foliage. Each house, in general, stands by itself, and being strongly barricaded towards the street, forms a little fortress. They are built of adobes or unburnt brick. The streets, however, are regularly laid out, paved, and furnished with footpaths. The cathedral, several of the churches, and the director's palace, may be reckoned handsome, though they do not exhibit any thing very splendid in architecture. Valparaiso, the main seat of Chilian commerce, is situated on a long narrow strip of land, over which impend on all sides steep cliffs nearly 2000 feet high, and sparingly covered with shrubs and stunted grass. One street, about three miles long, runs along the sea, and contains the houses of the most opulent citizens ; it is prolonged by the Almendral, or Almond Grove, a sort of detached village, which forms the most agreeable resi- dence. None of the buildings are handsome ; even the gover- nor's house is scarcely tolerable ; but the commercial progress of the town is marked by the many new and handsome ware- houses lately erected. Quillota is a small b ■ agreeable town, north of Valparaiso, and a little in the interior, in the province of Aconcagua, with 8000 inhabitants ; and higher up are the towns of San Felipe and Santa Rosa, each having about 5000 inhabitants, and con- taining an industrious and thriving agricultural population. Coquimbo is surrounded by a barren and almost desert coun- BRAZIL. 237 try, destitute of trees. Its importance nrisos solely from its mines, which include gold, silver, and copper. The commerce connected with tho mines gives some importance to this pluce ; though the inhabitants, unaccustomed to any varied traffic, retain much native simplicity, kindness, and hospitality. Uopiapo is in the heart of tho mining district, of which it may be considered the capital. This place is subject to the dreadful calamity of being once in about every twenty-three yours completely destroyed by earthquake. That of 1819 shook it entirely to pieces ; the wrecks of its houses and church- es lying scattered in every direction : but in 1821 the inhabitants rebuilt their fallen city. Tho town of Conccpcion suffered with peculiar severity from the late contest ; alternately occupied by the Spaniards and tho patriots, it was rudely treated by both, but especially by the former. A tier having in some measure recovered from tho calamities of war, the town was entirely destroyed by an earthquake, in 1835. Talcahuano, the port of Concepcion, is a small town, on a fine bay, with a good and secure anchorage. The town of Valdivia is situated about sixteen miles above its port, which is defended by strong batteries, and is the best and most capacious iiarbour in Chili ; it will be of great value when the surrounding country becomes more populous and civilized. EMPIRE OF BRAZIL. Brazil i^ a very extensive region which occupies nearly the whole of the eastern side of South America, and afler having been long held as a Portuguese colony, has of late, by peculiar circumstances, been formed into a separate empire, which extends over almost half the southern part of the western continent. It is bounded on the east by the Atlantic Ocean, north by Vene- zuela and Guiana, west by Ecuador, North Peru, Bolivia, Para- guay, and Uruguay. This vast territory extends about 2500 miles in extreme length, and about the same in extreme breadth. The area of the whole is upwards of three million square miles. It is thus twenty-five times the extent of the British Islands, and more than twice that of Mexico. Of this immense space, not above a fourth can be considered as at present in an effective and productive state ; and that part is scarcely cultivated and peopled up to a fourth of its actual ca- pacity. But nearly the whole, from soil, climate, and communi- 238 SOUTH AMERICA. 11^ !# I', I ■■I ',' ': V- cations, is capable of bcinjo; brought, at somo future and distant period, into full improvement. The Brazilian ranges of mountains arc of great extent, but reach, by no means, to that stu[)cndous height which distin- guishes the Andes of Colombia and Peru. The principal mass of these mountains lies north-west of Rio de Janeiro, towards the sources of the rivers San Francisco, Parana, and Tocantines, and arc not generally higher than from 2000 to 3000 feet ; only u few detached peaks rising to about 6000 feet. The greatest rivers in America and in the world, flow around the borders or through the territories of Brazil. Its northern part is watered by the course of the Amazon, its western by the Madeira and the Paraguay. Within its territory flow, tributary to the Amazon, the Topayos, the Xingu, and the Negro, which, though here secondary, may rival the greatest waters of tho other continents. The Tocantines and tho Parnaiba flow into the sea on the northern coast, and tho Rio F ancisco on the western. There are two Rio Grandes, one falling into the sea north cf Pernambuco, the other (Rio Grande do Sul) in the ex- treme south, watering the province that bears its name. There are but few lakes in Hrazil : in the southern part of tho empire there are the Patos and the Mi rim, extensive and shal- low, communicating with the sea, yet chiefly fresh, and form- ing the receptacle of all the streams which come down from the interior. Farther inland, tho Paraguay, by its superfluous wa- ters, forms lake Xarayes, which spreads, in the rainy season, over a vast extent of ground. Dense and impenetrable forests cover a great part of the inte- rior of Brazil, and exhibit a luxuriance of vegetation almost pe- culiar to the central regions of South America. These vast woods are rich in timber of every description, for use and orna- ment, siiited cither for carpentry, shipbuilding, dyeing, or furni- ture. That kind especially, called Brazil-wood, is particularly celebrated for the beautiful red dye which it produces. Agriculture is exercised in this 'v>untry upon valuable pro- ducts and in fertile soils, but in u ^ry slovenly manner. Tho farmers, till of late, were a nwcwr iffnorant race, not believing that there were any countries is ffhe wor! I except Portugal and Brazil, nor any, except the last, in which the sugar-cane grew. They have begun, however, to bold ntercourse with the world in general, and to introducf- im| -^Mcd processes from the AVest India islands. The chief objects of cultivation are cot on, sugar, coffee, and tobacco: the latter i» raised mostly for (iomestic consumption. For food chiefly to thf i»egroes, minioc and kidney-beans are the BRAZIL. 339 ant but itin- mas eirdo ncs, only ound ihern y the utary rhich, »f the iv into m the he sea heex- oftho J shal- , form- om the )us wa- season, he inte- nost pe- ;se vast ul orna- ,r furni- icularly ble pro- :r. The jcUeving jgal and ne grew, he world the West offee, and sumption, ns are the articles principally raised : Indian*corn and bannnns arc not so much used us in most tropical countries. Rice is largely culti- vated only in Maranlium. Cattle multiply to on immense extent in all parts of Brazil, but more especially in the south. The great farms contain 2000, 3000, 4000, and sometimes oven 40,000 head. These supply vast quantities of hides, horns, and tallow for cxporta- tion ; and the flesh, dried in a peculiar manner, called jcrk-bncf, is sent to the northern provinces of Brazil, and to the West Indies. Brazil is rich in gold and precious stones : the former occurs mostly Ukc that of Africa, in the form of small particles brought down by streams which descend from the hills, and from which it is separated by agitation in water. Few mines are now worked, and less attention seems to be paid to the collection of gold than formerly. The diamonds of this country are found in situations similar to that of gold, among the earth at the bottom of the rivers. The principal diamond ground is a circuit of obout 16 leagues around Tejuco. The trade has been monopolized by the government, and as usual in such cases has been conducted at a very great expense, and the strictest precautions are taken to prevent any of the diamonds being smuggled. Iron, copper, topazes, tourma- lines, and rock crystal, also abound. Manufactures have made less progress in Brazil than in any of the South American colonies. The only fabric of importance is that of gold and silver, which, is curried on in the capital to a considerable extent. The rhk les wrought arc of great beauty, and nrn nn object even of x|»ort. The commerce of Bruui m hich is greater than that of any other country in Amerk-*, except the United States, flourishes in consequence of the dependence of the people upon foreign manu- factures, as well as tW valuable products of the soil. The chief trade is with Great Britain, the United States, France, and Por- tugal. Sugar, coffee, cotton, hides, horns, and tallow, with some gold and precious stones, are the principal exports : these in valuo exceed 25 million dollars annually. The mass of the imports are in British manufactured goods, which rise to the sum of 20 million dollars yearly. A considerable inland trade is carried on by means of trains of mules from the sea-port towns with the interior country. Religion in Brazil, as in the South American States, is the Catholic, but British subjects have been allowed to erect a church after the manner of a private dwelling, but without a bell. The established church having relinquished the payment of tithes, the I I ill 240 SOUTH AMERICA. ■■. ■■ < KM!. ":, -■•■t- |i ;• fp.'. mi priesthood is supported by government. There are one arch- bishop and six bishops : the inferior clergy are numerous, and many of them are negroes. Science, literature, and art have scarcely yet any existence in Brazil. Some of the higher classes, and of the officers of the government, are well informed, and the sea-port towns are be- ginning to imbibe the spirit and knowledge of Europe ; but these improvements have made little way into the interior. The plan of founding a university which has been proposed is not yet ex- ecuted ; and the Brazilians who seek a superior education must cross the sea to Portugal. The population of Brazil is estimated at 5 millions, of which about one-fifth are whites, three-fifths slaves, and the remainder free coloured persons. The great predominance of the negro population distinguishes Brazil unfavourably from the other South American states. It appears that not a fourth of the population is of unmixed white race, and that more than half the entire number are slaves. Though the importation of these was to have ceased in 1830, yet great numbers are still brought into the country. The Indians in Brazil are in a much more barbarous and unpro- mising state than in the Spanish settlements. They have never been incorporated in any shape with the European population ; but have always retired before the progress of civilization into the depths of their forests. They have borrowed, indeed, from the Portuguese some scanty portion of raiment. But they have never attempted the taming of animals, or the planting of grain ; they subsist solely on the spontaneous fruits of the earth, the roots which they can dig up, and the game brought down by their arrow, which they shoot with marvellous dexterity, taking an almost unerring aim at the distance of forty or fifty yards. Brazil is the only portion of the New World, ever governed by an European sovereign in person; — the King of Portugal having reigned here from the year 1808 until the year 1821. The country was afterwards declared independent of Portugal, and Pedro the First crowned emperor of Brazil. In 1831, he abdicated the throne in favour of his son. According to the constitution which was formed in 1823, and adopted in 1824, Brazil is an hereditary monarchy, with a legis- lative assembly, consisting of two houses, a senate appointed by the emperor, and a house of representatives elected by the people. Pedro the Second, who was born in 1825, is now emperor of Brazil, but the government is conducted by a regency. BRAZIL. 241 uh- ind )in the be- lese slan ex- nust hich nder ishes . It ivhite aves. 9, yet npro- never ation ; into , from have rain; "h, the their g an rerned Irtugal 11821. :tugal, 31, he |3, and legis- Lointed [by the Iror of Brazil is divided into 18 provinces, which are subdivided into comarcas or counties. provinces. Capitals. Population. Para Para 20,000 Maranham . . Maranham. . . .20,000 Piauhy Oeiras 2,000 Ceara Aracati 20,000 Rio Grande. . Natal 11,000 Faraiba Paraiba 3,000 Pemambuco . Pernambuco. • .65,000 Alagoas Alagoas 5,000 Sergippe .... Sergippe 30,000 Provinces. Capitals. Population. Bahia Bahia 120,000 Espiritu Santo Espiritu Santo 11,000 Rio Janeiro . . Rio Janeiro . . 150,000 San Paulo . . . San Paulo . . . St. Catharina. St Catharina. San Pedro . . . Portalegre . . . M inas Geraes Villa Rica . . . Goyaz Villa Boa 20,000 6,000 12,000 8,000 6,000 Matto Gro88o. Villa BeUa. . . .20,000 Rio Janeiro, the capital of Brazil, is the largest and most flour- ishing city of South America. It lies on the western side of a noble bay, seventy or eighty miles in circumference, forming one of the most spacious and secure receptacles for shipping in the world. It is studded with upwards of 100 islands ; the ships of all nations are seen passing through its channels, and innumera- ble little boats flitting about. Population, 150,000. The city is tolerably well built, much in the European style, the houses being three or four stories high, though the streets are rather narrow. Two of them extend the whole length, with new and broad streets striking off from them ; and there are several very handsome squares. This place is well supplied with water, by excellent aqueducts. There is a greater stir and bustle than is usual in a South American city, though the crowd of half- naked blacks and mulattoes offends the eye of the newly -arrived European. The environs of Rio Janeiro are delightful in the extreme, the valleys and sides of the hills being covered with trees, shrubs, and creeping plants, of peculiar beauty. Bahia, or St. Salvador, is situated on the noble bay of All Saints, and is the next in importance to Rio Janeiro, in Brazil : it consists of two towns, the upper and lower ; in the latter the houses are high, the streets confined and narrow, wretchedly paved, never cleaned, and therefore disgustingly dirty. The upper town, how- ever, placed upon the side of a hill which rises abruptly behind, though not well built, has a number of handsome private houses and public buildings. The cathedral and several other churches are handsome and richly ornamented ; but the finest of them, the Ex-Jesuits' church, built entirely of marble imported from Eu- rope, has been converted into barracks. The police of this place is bad, the dagger being generally worn, and too often used ; the deaths by assassination, are estimated at 200 in the year ; yet Bahia is esteemed the gayest city in Brazil. Its populatioo amounts to 120,000 souls. 21 242 SOUTH AMERICA. H hit: Cachoeira, a short distance in the interior from Bahia, is a handsome, well-built town, with 16,000 inhabitants. Sergippe del Rev, north of Bahia, is situated in the midst of a rich coun- try, abounding in grain, tobacco, and sugar, and carries on a considerable trade. Population, 30,000. Pernambuco is, after Rio Janeiro and Bahia, the most import- ant place in Brazil : it is properly a compound of four towns : Olinda, seated on a range of rocky hills, and the most ancient, but now much decayed, contains the cathedral, &c. ; Recife, built on a sand-bank level with the water, and deriving its name from the reef opposite to it, the seat of trade, highly flourish- ing, and rapidly increasing : St. Antonio, or the middle town, composed of large broad streets, and containing the governor's house, and two principal churches ; lastly. Boa Vista, an exten- sive agreeable suburb, where the principal merchants have com- modious gardens. Pernambuco* has flourished extremely and increased rapidly, chiefly in consequence of the augmented cul- ture of cotton, and the ample market for it in Europe. The cot- ton of Pernambuco is said to be the best in the north of Brazil. Population, 65,000. Alagoas and Maceyo, small ports south of Pernambuco, are increasing in trade and population. Para, Maranham, and Aracati, are the most important towns on the north coast: the first, situated on the river Para, is a place of considerable trade : its water communications with the interior are so extensive, that it must continue to advance with the progressive settlement of the inland provinces. Maranham, on an island of the same name, has a population of 20,000, and exports large quantities of cotton, rice, and hides. Ai;iacati, a few miles above the mouth of the Jaguaribe river, contains 20,000 inhabitants, and is a place of some trade. San Paulo is situated on one of the head branches of the Pa- rana river, which, though it rises but a few miles from the east coast, traverses more than 2000 miles of territory before its wa- ters mingle with those of the ocean. The town contains several churches, convents, &c., and has a neat and clean appearance. Population, 20,000. Portalegre, at the head of lake Patos, and Rio Grande, or San Pedro, at its mouth, are both places of con- siderable trade, in hides, horns, and tallow : the first is the chief town in the extreme southern part of Trazil. San Joao del Rey, some distance in the interior, and north from Rio Janeiro, is a neat little town of whitewashed, red-tiled houses, surrounded by a singular sceneof round hills and broken rocks, with tracts entirely sterile, and others covered with the most luxuriant verdure. Its situation is so agreeable and cen- tral, that an intention was once formed of making it the capital ii'> yi BUENOS AYRES. 243 of Brazil. Villa Rica was formerly rich and populous, but is now much declined on account of the diminution in the produc- tion of the gold-mines, to which it owed its prosperity. Popu- lation, 8000. Tejuco, the capital of the diamond district of Serro do Frio, is situated in a most dreary tract, where all the necessaries of life must be brought from a considerable distance. It is well built, on very rugged ground, and contains 6000 inhabitants, of which many are slaves employed in searching for diamonds. Villa do Principe, in a fine country, on the borders of the diamond dis- trict, enjoys a more solid prosperity, and contains about 5000 people. Cuyaba, 1000 miles from the coast, is the largest inland town in Brazil : it is in the midst of a rich gold region, and contains 30,000 inhabitants. Villa Bella, still farther in the interior, is on the Guapore, one of the head branches of the Madeira : it is tlie most remote inland town of any in Brazil. Its population amounts to 20,000. BUENOS AYRES. Buenos Ayres is the title given to an extensive region of South America, which, under Spanish dominion, formed a part of the viceroyalty of the Rio de la Plata. The states now occu- pying the territory in question, were the first in this quarter that threw off the yoke of Spain, and their independence was acknow- ledged by the United States in 1822. In the year 1817 theee states were formed into a republic, called the United Provinces of the Rio de la Plata. In 1826 it assumed the title of the Argentine Republic, but it is now com. monly known as the Republic of Buenos Ayres. This union has not been permanent. Each state has at present an adminis- tration of its own, though repeated attempts have been made to re-establish a united government. This republic comprised 14 states, with a population of about 700,000. States. Capitals. Population. Buenos Ayres Buenos Ayres 70,000 Entre Rios . . . Paran& 1,000 Corrientes Corricntes 5,000 Santa F6 Santa F6 5,000 Cordova Cordova 10,000 Santiago Santiago 8,000 Tucuman .... Tucuman 5,000 States. Salta Jujuy Cutamarca. Rioja San Juan . Capit^'ls. Population. .Salta 2,000 , Jujuy 1,000 .Catamarca 2,000 Rioja San Juan .... 10,000 San Luis San Luis 2,000 Mendoza Mendoza 8,000 244 SOUTH AMERICA. m: ^■ w Buenos Ayres being the leading and only niaritime division, its acts are often considered by the world as those of the whole country. The similarity in natural features and political cha- racter of these states, with the circumstance of their having once formed a recognised national body, seem to render a description of them, under one head, both proper and necessary. The republic of ' enos Ayres is bounded on the north by Bolivia, south by Puiugonia, east by the territories of Paraguay and Uruguay and the Atlantic ocean ; and west by Chili. It is in length 1200 miles, and in breadth 700, comprising an area of 750,000 square miles. The Andes form the western frontier of this region, and some of its inferior ridges traverse the north-western provinces : the only other known elevation is the mountains called the Sierra Vulcan, which rise up abruptly in the pampas about 250 miled south-west from Buenos Ayresj. Nearly the whole surface of the country consists of vdst plains, called pampas, which stretch from the Atlantic Ocean to the Andes, and from north to south through the entire extent of the territory. These plains resemble the prairies of North America and the Llanos of Colombia, being, like them, destitute of trees, covered with tall grass, and stretching out with an unbroken surface for hundreds of miles. Several rivers and lakes are found in them, but in general they are scantily watered. Numerous herds of horses, mules, and cattle, graze and roam over these vast plains. The rhea, or American ostrich, with the jaguar and several kinds of deer, ialso abound on them. The Rio de la Plata is the principal river of this quarter. It is 150 miles wide at its mouth, and is navigable as high as Buenos Ayres. This great stream is formed by the union of the Parana and the Uruguay ; the former rises in Brazil, and after flowing 1400 miles through wild and unsettled regions, receives the Paraguay, which also originates in the same country. The Pilcomayo, Ver- mejo, and Salado, are likewise important streams. The two first are tributary to the Paraguay, and the last tc the Parana. Tlie Colorado and Rio Negro are the principal rivers to the south of the Rio de la Plata : rising in the Andes, they flow, through desert and imperfectly known districts, into the Atlantic ocean. The chief lakes are the Ibera, Porongos, Bebedero, and those of Guanacache ; but none of them are of much importance. The agricultural produce of this country consists almost en- tirely in the vast herds of horses and horned cattle, which cover its boundless plains. The Gaucho, or inhabitant of the pampas, has no care in raising or feeding cattle ; he has only to throw over them the lasso, or long leather noose, to kill or drive them BUENOS AYRES. 245 to Buenos Ayres ; and in the case of horses, to break and put a mark on them by which they may be afterwards known. Beef can scarcely be said to bear any price in this country, since a cow may be had for three or four dollars ; and the hide is worth more than half that num. Wheat and barley, for which the soil is perfectly well adapted, are cultivated in a slovenly way immediately round Buenos Ayres and the other towns, and the grain is threshed by making cattle gallop over it. In this naked and exposed region, there is a great want of tim- ber fjr fuel. The peach-tree has been found to grow, and an- swer the purpose of fuel better than any other, and the fruit is used chiefly for feeding swine. There is scarcely any manufac- ture carried on here, except that of ponchos, or riding-cloaks, which are universally worn. The indolence which the South Americans inherit from the Spaniards, will, probably, long pre- vent them from becoming a manufacturing people. The commerce of Buenos Ayres is considerable, compared with the population. The country is dependent on foreign sup- plies for almost every article, both of manufactured goods and colonial produce, and even for grain; in return for which it gives the refuse of its cattle, hides, horns, and tallow. The chief commerce of Buenos Ayres is with the United States and Great Britain. A very considerable inland trade is also carried on by large wagons, which are driven across the pampas to Mendoza iind other towns at the foot of the Andes. They carry some manufactures and colonial goods, and bring back wine, brandy, and mineral produce. Society, over all Spanish America, wears a very uniform as- pect. The Creoles, now everywhere the ruling class, are acute, polite, and indolent : they are, at the same time, passionately ibnd of diversion, especially in the forms of dancing and gaming. Every lady holds her tertnlia, or evening party, to which even the passing stranger will sometimes be Invited. They are less charged with intrigue, however, than in some other cities of South America. The conduct of the young ladies is very strictly watched, rnd they are married at thirteen or fourteen. Horses being easily procured at Buenos Ayres, it is an object of pride, with almost every individual, to keep a number, of fine quality, on the equipment of which they often bestow more care than on the due clothing of their own persons. Every one has a horse ; even the beggar begs on horse-back. The Gauchos, or white inhabitants of the pampas, live in rude independence, and are a very singular race. The gaucho is at once the most active and the most indolent of mortals. He will scour the country whole davs at full gallop, breaking wild horses, 21 * 246 SOUTH AMERICA. II ' I' ■'■ W !'*^ or chasing the jaguar or the ostrich ; but once alighted and seat- ed on the skeleton of a horse's head, nothing can induce him to move. His dwelling is a mud cottage, with one apartment, and so swarming with insects, that in summer the whole family, wrapped in skins, sleep in the open air. All around is a wide desert, with the exception of the corral or circular spot, en- closed by stakes, into w! ' h the cattle are driven. Neither grain nor vegetables are culti • d on the pampas, nor is the cow made to yield milk. The Catholic religion prevails exclusively in these states, as over all South America ; but the splendour of the churches, and the endowments of the clergy, appear to be greater here, com- pared at least with the means of supporting them, than in any other province. Many ecclesiastics have been charged with lead- ing lives much at variance with their profession, and the influ- ence of the church has somewhat declined, but is still very con- siderable. Knowledge, as in the other new states, is encouraged by the government, without having yet made any very deep impression on the body of the people. Several large schools have been established on the plan of mutual instruction, and an university has even been founded, but as yet it is little more than a classi- cal school. The city of Buenos Ayres is situated on the southern bank of the Rio de la Plata, about 200 miles above its mouth ; and, pre- senting the spires of numerous churches and convents, makes rather a fine appearance. The houses are built of brick, white- washed, and with flat roofs, over which may be taken a pleasant, and even extensive walk. The windows are protected by iron bars, causing each mansion to form a complete fortification. The town, on the whole, is rather handsome, especially the houses surrounding the great square. The environs on the land side have a very monotonous aspect, being animated neither by va- ried vegetation, nor by the chirping of birds. The population of this city is estimated at 70,000. Large vessels cannot ap- proach nearer than two or three leagues. Cordova is a neat small town, well paved, with a handsome cathedral and market-place. It possesses the only university in the interior provinces, which has recently produced some men of considerable eminence. It carries on a manufacture of cloth, and a trade in mules. Salta is a considerable place of 400 houses, situated in the beautiful valley of Lerma, on the high road from Buenos Ayres to Potosi. It is the capital of a bishopric. About 60,000 mules are reared in the neighbourhood. An annual fair is held in February and March for mules and horses. P PARAGUAY. 247 nd seaf- him to jnt, and family, 1 a wide pot, en- ler grain )W made itates, as hes, and sre, com- i in any vith lead- the intiu- /ery con- jd by the Tipression lave been university I a classi- n bank of and, pre- its, makes ck, white- pleasant, jd by iron ition. The he houses land side her by va- population cannot ap- handsonie [liversity in some men ire of cloth, 400 houses, road from ric. About annual fair Tucuman and Santiago del Estero are old towns, situated in fertile plains, and deriving some importance from their position on the main route from Buenos Ayr6s to Peru. Corrientes, at the junction of the Paraguay and the Parana, must, from this happy situation, rise in time much above its present moderate importance. Lower down, on the opposite side of the river, is Santa Fe, distant 250 miles from Buenos Ayres, which has risen to considerable importance by becoming a depdt for the goods on the river. Population, 5000. Mendoza, near the base of the Andes, is a neat town, well built of brick, the streets refreshed by streams from the river, and the interior of the houses well fitted up. The population is about 8000. They are described ai a quiet, well-disposed peo- ple, though they give themselves up, without reserve, to the indo- lence generated by the climate, enjoying an unbroken siesta, or sleep, from twelve to five in the afternoon, when they rise to walk on the alameda, which commands a noble view of the plain and the Andes : but this is the usual train of life in these interior cities. San Luis, to the east of Mendoza, on a frequented though cir- cuitous route from Buenos Ayres, is a much smaller place, con- sisting of a number of mud huts, scattered over a large space of ground. San Juan, to the north of Mendoza, has another but much less frequented route through the Andes. The town is said to contain 10,000 inhabitants; PARAGUAY. Paraguay is situated between the Parani and Paraguay rivers. It is a fine fertile country, nearly 500 miles in length, and up- wards of 200 in breadth. The soil is extremely fruitful, and abounds in various vegetable productions ; and vast herds of cat- tle and horses feed on its rich pastures. The population is sup- posed to be about 150,000, of whom 7000 or 8000 are probably whites, end the remainder mestizoes and Indians. This state declared its independence in the year 1813, and established v. government of several members. In about three years this government was dissolved, when it fell under the absolute dominion of Doctor Francia, a native creole, who as- sumed the power of a dictator, and rules the people according to his own will. He has administered the government with great rigour and severity, and maintained the most rigid police in every part of his territories. He has strictly prohibited all intercourse with foreign countries, and foreigners who enter Paraguay are j0m i ' 248 SOUTH AMERICA. 'J m ■ ^ T C I seldom allowed to depart. This singular man, now about 80 years of age, lives without pomp or parade, and though he some- times acts with severity and even tyranny, appears to maintain his power unimpaired. The cabildo, or municipal government of tlio several towns, is chosen annually by the people. Indians, as well as Creoles and the mixed races, are eligibie to these offices. All the inha- bitants are instructed in the first rudiments of education. Pub- lic schools are established in all parts of the country. Every person is required to be employed at some business or other, and mendicity is unknown. Assumpcion, the metropolis, is a considerable place, with about 7000 inhabitants, but with little regularity and beauty. It is built on a bank above the river, which is daily washing away part of the ground beneath it. This place, with the smaller ones of Curuguatty and Villa Rica, were the staples for the herb of Paraguay. Neembuco, Concepcion, and Itapua, are also small towns, with a population of 2000 or 3000 each. The Paraguay tea, which derives its name from this region, is an evergreen plant or small tree, of the holly family. It grows wild in the woods fringing the rivers and streams which fall into the Uruguay, Parana and Paraguay. The use of this herb is general in Buenos Ay res, and also in Chili, Peru, and some parts of Colombia. The custom has been derived from the aborigines. To drink this infusion, it is customary to put a pinch of the leaves into a cup, or small calabash called mate (from which the name of the plant, yerva mate, is derived,) full of hot water, and to drink off the fluid immediately, by imbibing it through a little tube or sucker, pierced with holes in the lower part, which only allow the passage of the water, and keep back the leaves that float on the surface. Sugar and a little lemon-peel are added to improve the flavour. It is usually sipped the first thing in the morning, and several times in the course of the day. The Jesuits planted many of these trees round their towns and missions, for the con- venience of preparing and exporting the leaf; but their example has not been followed, and the plants are mostly found in wild and secluded spots. The South Americans ascribe many virtues to this plant, which is certainly aperient and diuretic. Like opium, it pro- duces some singular and contrary effects, giving sleep to the restless and spirit to the torpid. When the habit is formed of taking it, it is difficult to leave it off. When taken to excess, its effects resemble those produced by excessive indulgence in the use of strong liquors. unuauAY. UkUGUAY. 249 The tract of country Vrhich lies on tho north of the Rio au la Plata and on the cast of the Uruguay river, formerly made one of the United Provinces of the Rio de la Plata, under the name of the Banda Oriental. It became the cause of an obstinate con- test between Buenos Ayr^s and Brazil, and was for a time incor- porated with the latter power under the title of the Provincia Cis- platina. The war, which lasted for some time, was ended by the con tending parties agreeing to the establishment of this country as an independent state, which took the title of the Republic of Monte Video, from its chief town. It has since assumed tho title of the Oriental Republic of the Uruguay, but is commonly called Uruguay. It is nearly 600 miles long and upwards of 200 miles wide ; area about 92,000 square miles, and a popula- tion of 75,000. Monte Video, the capital of Uruguay, stands bti the northern bank of the Rio de la Plata, and has the best harbour upon that river. It has suffered severely by the various contests of which its territory has been the theatre. It is well built, with wide and regular streets, and the country around is agreeably diversified. The gardens abound with the finest fruits and flowers, but there is otherwise little cultivation ; though extensive cattle farms are found in the interior. It exports large quantities of hides. The population of the city, much reduced by the events of the war, IS now about 15,000. Below Monte Video is the small port of Maldonado, and above it the still smaller one of Colonia del Sacramento, with a good harbour. . - In this state, on the upper part of the Uruguay river, are the remains of some of the settlements and towns called the missions, where the Jesuits collected into a body 100,000 of the natives, from the ignorant, wandering and fierce tribes in the vicinity, who lived under their sway, and paid them homage bordering almost on adoration. They trained them to arts and manufac- tures, instructed them in letters, taught them to carry on agri- culture with great success, and armed and disciplined them in the European manner. The Jesuits appear to have been humane and enlightened in their intentions. They were, however, suspected by the court of Spain of aiming at the establishment of an independent empire in South America, subject to them alone ; and on the suppres- sion of the order in Europe, they were expelled from their set- tlements, which, being taken under the control of the crown until ini 260 80UTH AMERICA. the suppression of Spanish authority in America, have fallen into decay, and do not at this time probably contain the one-tenth of the population of their days of prosperity. h-' • n- II I ':m"'-> PATAGONIA. Patagonia, the southern extremity of the western continent, is a cold desolate region, the interior parts of which are but !i*tle known. It is about 1000 miles in length, and from 300 to 40U in breadth, having an area of probably 370,000 square miles. It is very thinly inhabited by an Indian race, who have long drawn the attention of navigators by their great size, and have usually been described by them as a nation of giants. They are divided into tribes, of which the Moluches and Puelches appear to be the principal. 'l\\c Patagonians are said to be excellent horsemen, and hunt the rhea, or American ostrich, which is found in considerable numbers in the northern part of their country. Deer of various kinds, with guanucos and horses, abound in the interior, and seals are numerous in the bays and harbours. The Andes extend along the eastern coast of Patagonia, but after passing Chili they no longer display the vast height which distinguishes the more northern part of the range. They are supposed not to exceed 3000 feet in general, though some peaks rise lo 6000 or 6000, which wear a most dreary aspect, being constantly covered with ice and snow. The principal rivers of Patagonia are all on the eastern side, and flow from the base of the Andes into the Atlantic Ocean. Terra del Fuego, separated from Patagonia by the Strait of Magellan, is inhabited by a few miserable savages in the low- est state of wretchedness, and subsisting solely on the shell-fish which they pick up on the shore. Hermit island, immediately south of Terra del Fuego, is re- markable as containing Cape Horn, the most southerly point of America, and facing directly the vast ocean which surrounds the southern pole. SOUTH AMERICAN ISLANDS. A coxsioEKABLE number of islands are scattered around South America, none of which, however, are of much import- ance. The Gallapagos are a numerous group, situated on the equator, about 650 miles west from the coast of New Grenada ; .• i .SOUTH AMERICAN ISLANDS. 251 nine of them only arc of considerable size. They enjoy a fine climate and fertile soil, and are the scat of volcanic actiuii. At the mouth of the Amazon river is the island of Joannes, belonging to Brazil. It is little more than a vast swamp, and is inhabited bv Indians. Fernando de Noronha, al)out '^00 miles north-east from Cape St. Roque, belongs also to Brazil, and is used as a place Oi confinement for transported convict«. Of several islands lying along the east coast of Brazil, the most im- portant is Santa Catharina. It is a fine fertile island, and is much visited by vessels in want of refreshments. The town of Desterro, the principal on the island, contains 5000 inhabitants. The islands of St. Felix, Juan Fernandez, and Chiloe, belong to Chili ; the latter forms the most southern province of that re- public. A number of islands extend along the west coast of ratagonia ; they are but little known, and are cold, barren, and desolate regions. Wellington island, about 150 miles in length, is the principal of these. Terra del Fuego, or Land of Fire, lies south of Patagonia, and is the most southern part of tne inhabited world. The name is derived from the volcanic fires seen on various parts of the coast. Staten Land is separated from Terra del Fuego by the strait of Le Maire. The English have esta- blished a settlement on this island. South-east from Patagonia are several groups of islands, scat- tered at various distances from the continent. They comprise the Falkland Islands, South Georgia, and Sandwich Land. The climate of these islands is cold and severe, and their shores are rugged and barren. They are all uninhabited ; and, except the Falkland group, are very seldom visited. The latter contains many good harbours, which afford shelter to the whale and seal ships which navigate the southeni seas. They are claimed both by Great Britain and Buenos Ayres. Further to the south are the islands of South Shetland, South Orkney, Palmer's Land, and Graham's Land. These have all been discovered since the year 1819. They are desolate, sterilo regions, covered even in mid-summer with ice and snow, and are untenanted by a single human being. Thcsir shores abound with the fur-seal, sea elephant, and vast numbers of penguins. Ves- sels from Stonington, and other ports in New England, frequent these islands for the purpose of procuring seals, the furs of which are very fine and valuable. I fm-: 363 EUROPE. EUROPE. ,,1 I'. It' •f I r I- '■ U EvROPB occupies the north-western section of the Ekistern Con* tinent, and is the smallest of the great divisions of the globe, yet it is the first in importance, and the second in amount of popula- tion. It has become the chief seat of learning, civilization, and the arts, and its inhabitants are more intelligent, enterprising, and industrious than those of the other auarters of the earth. Europe is bounded on the north by the Arctic Ocean, and on the west by the Atlantic ; on the south by the Mediterranean Sea, the Sea of Marmora, the Black Sea, and the Sea of Azov ; and on the east by Asiatic Russia. It is in extent from north to south about 2600 miles ; and from east to west in the widest part 2800 miles. Area, 3,600,000 square miles. Population, 230,000,000. This quarter of the world is deeply penetrated by large inland seas and numerous gulfs, which anord great natural advantages for commercial pursuits; and this circumstance has in no small degree contributed to the high superiority of Europe over Asia and Africa, whose deficiency in this particular has been one great physical obstacle to their prosperity and civilization. Of this the Mediterranean may be regarded as an example. It was one of the principal means of promoting the civilization of ancient Europe; and art, science, commerce, and literature, gradually advanced into the interior from its shores : while the vast inland plains of Russia and Poland, presenting a different aspect, remained, even aAer the civilization and improvement of all Western Europe, sunk in the deepest barbarism, from which they are but slowly and with difficulty emerging. The surface of Europe is greatly diversified. Its mountains do not reach that stupendous height, nor stretch in such unbroken chains, as those of Asia and America. The principal ranges of mountains are the Dofrafields, the Pyrenees, the Alps, the Apennines, the Balkan, and the Ural mountains. The interior regions of Europe are well watered, though none of the rivers are of the first magnitude. The principal of them are the Volga, Danube, Don, Dnieper, Tagus, Loire, Rhine, Rhone, Elbe, and Vis.ula. But few of the lakes of Europe are of sufficient magnitude to rank as inland seas. Those alone entitled to this distinction are the Ladoga and the Onega, which form a sort of continuation of the Gulf of Finland. The others worthy of notice are the Wener and Wetter, in Sweden ; the Swiss lakes of Geneva, Lucerne, and Constance ; the Platten n tJUUOPE. 263 em Con- ;lobe, yet f popula- tion, and sing, and 1, and on ;errancan of Azov ; om north he widest opulation, rge inland dvantages I no small over Asia been ono fttion. Of le. It was ligation of literature, while the a different >vement of rom which mountains unbroken pal ranges Alps, the lOugh none pal of them ire, Rhine, Europe are i'hose alone lega, which The others weden; the the Flatten Seu or Lako, in Austria ; and the lakes Garda, Como, and Mag- gioro, in Italy. The European soil is distinguish^ 1 for productions, perhaps surpussins in vuluo those of any other quarter of the glob«\ Grain, ot ono description or another, is raised over its whole surface, excepting in the extreme north ; and wines are produced throughout all its southern kingdoms. In hemp, flax, and wool, those staple materials of clothing, Europe is equally pre-eminent. Hilk, another valuable commodity, it produces copiously. Except the horse and the camel, for which Asia is renowned, Europe contains the most valuable as well as the most numerous breeds of domestic animals. Its northern forests produce the fmest timber in the world, with the exception of the teak ; and its iron, the most useful of metals, surpasses that of the rest of the world ; but all the more valuable substances, gold, silver, pearls, and precious stones, exist in an extent so limited as scarcely to bo deserving of mention. The cultivation of the soil is curried on with much greater diligence than in any oun. tries except in the south-east of Asia ; while in science, skill, and the extent of capital employed upon it, European agriculture is quite unrivalled. In manufacturing industry, this quarter of the world has, within these few lost centuries, far surpassed all the others of the globe. The looms and workshops of Europe yield a variety of fine and beautiful fabrics, in such profusion, and at so cheap a rate, as to place them within the reach of almost every class of society. This continent thus clothes all the young nations which have issued from her own bosom, and which fill nearly two entire quarters of the habitable earth. Commerce, on so great a scale as to connect together the dis- tant quarters of the world, can hardly be said to exist out of Europe. European vessels are found in the utmost bounds of Asia and America, in the snowy regions of either pole, and in the ports of the most remote parts of the globe. There is hardly a place on earth, however distant, affording ;jy scope for the employment of commercial capital, which is not imme- diately filled with the same promptitude as if it had been situated in the heart of Europe. The ships of that continent exceed those of all the others in number and dimensions, and are more skilfully navigated, with the exception of those belonging to the United States, which have formed a commercial and maritime system, modelled on that of Europe — a system which may one day surpass the original. The native animals of Europe are neither so varied nor so extensive as those of more genial climes. The most useful and 22 n ■I I m S54 EUROPE. i U'i ■ hi'. H- §'• '*i ' important of the domestic kinds have been introduced from other regions. The horse, originally from Arabia, or, according to the opinion of some, from Tartary, has, by cultivation and edu- cation, been brought to a high state of perfection, and has be- come varied in kind to a great extent. The ass, the dog, and cat, are also believed to have an eastern origin. The ox, one of the most valuable of nature's gifts to man, appears to have existed in a wild state over the whole of Europe, but whether as a distinct species or a mere variety, is still uncertain. At what time this breed was exterminated from the open forests is not known ; but it was con^ned to parks, in Britain, long before the Reformation. The race is still preserved in the north of Eng- land ; they are wholly white, with a black muzzle. The domestic quadrupeds which administer so much to the necessities and happiness of the human race, have been (particu- larly in Britain) improved to a high degree of excellence. Of the ox, the sheep, and the hog, there is a vast variety, each of which possesses some valuable peculiarity which renders them so essential in supplying food and clothing to man ; while the horse, the ass, and the dog, assist him in his labours or protect his property. In the extreme northern parts of the continent, the great white bear, mojre truly perhaps than any other an arctic animal, inha- bits the shores of Nova Zembla, and is occasionally seen in other parts : it is the same as the American quadruped of the same name. The only two European species of this animal, the brown and black bear, are natives of the northern and temperate regions of the continent. The latter differs from that of America in many essential points. The wolf and the fox, under different vf^rieties or species, appear generally distributed over Europe. To these may be added the lynx and wild cat, as the only rapa- cious or carnivorous animals of this region. The elk and the reindeer are well-known inhabitants of the northern countries ; the latter giving place to the fallow-deer, the stag, and the roe- buck, in the midland parts of Europe. In the lofty mountains and inaccessible precipicos of the Alps and Pyrenees, the chamois, isard, and ibex, still live in partial security, notwithstanding the daring intrepidity of their hunters. The musmon is another European quadruped, deserving notice as being generally considered the origin of all our domestic breeds of sheep. It appears still to exist in a state of nature among the high mountains of Corsica and Sardinia, and although extirpated upon the continent, is well ascertained to have formerly been common in the mountains of Asturia in Spain, and other parts. The beaver is found in the vicinity of the Rhine, the ft P: ! EUROPE. 255 Rhone, the Danube, and other of the larger European rivers. It is, however, uncertain whether it is precisely the same as the AntJerican species. The domesticated birds of Europe, brought from other quar- ters, are the turkey from America, the peacock and common fowl from India, the Guinea-fowl from Africa, and the pheasant from Asia Minor. The rapacious birds, as in other regions, are the smallest in number, but the most formidable in strength. The golden, imperial, white-tailed, and sea-eagle, are found in various parts of the continent. On the highest summits of the Alps, and in the vast forests which clothe their sides, in Switzerland and the Tyrol, are found all the four species of the European vulture, of which the most formidable is the bearded vulture, or vulture of the Alps. It is the largest of European birds, being four feet and a half in length, and its strength is so great that it attacks sheep, lambs, and young stags, and even the chamois and ibex fall victims to its rapacity. It builds in such inaccessible precipices that its nest is very rarely seen. The vulture is seldom found north of the Alps, and is most numerous in the southern parts of the continent. The goshawk is found in Scotland, France, and Germany. Great use was formerly made of this bird in falconry. Many species of owls are known in Europe ; also, crows of various kinds, many species of woodpecker, snipe, grosbeaks, bullfinches, buntings, finches, linnets, larks, &o. The grouse, of various spocies, are highly prized as game : the largest, the cock of the rock, the size of a small turkey, is found in Russia : the cock of the wood is a fine bird, found in the high mountainous parts of the continent ; it lives mostly in pine forests and upon the leaves of fir trees. The partridge and quail are universally diffused. The bustard, among the largest of European birds, being four feet long, is common in Spain, Italy, and Turkey. These birds run with great rapidity, but fly with difficulty, and are oftentimes hunted by greyhounds. The beautiful wall-creeper, with its bright rosy wings, the golden oriole, the bee-eater, the hoopoo, and the roller, four of the most beautiful European birds, are common in Italy and Sicily ; also the pelican, the spoonbill, and the flamingo, although from their large size attracting the atten- tion of sportsmen, they are never seen in any considerable num- bers. The seas and coasts of Europe abound to a great extent with fish and marine animals of various kinds, some of which exist in vast numbers, and are of great importance in a national point of view, afllbrding food and employment to thousands of fisher- men : this is especially the case with the codfish on the shores w' 25Q EUROPE. m ; If l* m If :■ w V'i'f,L.i^ f-mi- i-,i of Norway, and the herring of the British coast. The countless myriads of these fish which visit annually the northern shores of Europe, migrate from the Arctic seas, and appear off the Shet- land Isles in April and May : they frequently move in columns of five or six miles in length, and three or four in breadth. The pilchards, on the southern coast of England, and the sar- dines, on that of France, are caught to a great extent. The herring is but little if at all known on the Mediterranean ; a sub- stitute, however, exists in the enormous shoals of anchovies found on the coasts of Spain, France, and Italy, which employ annu- ally in their capture and preparation a great number of persons, and the exportation of this highly-flavoured little fish to all parts of the world creates an important branch of permanent com- merce. The tunny fishery is peculiar to Sicily and Malta, but is not pursued to the same extent as formerly. The people of Europe are divided chiefly into three great races, which dift'er essentially in language, political situation, and habits of life. These are the Sclavonic, the Teutonic, and the Romish. The Sclavonic race consists of about 40,000,000 of Russians, from 18,000,000 to 20,000,000 of Poles, Lithuanians, and Letts, and about 10,000,000 of other races, known under the names of Wends, Tcheches, Slawakes, Croats, and Morlachians, which have found their way into eastern Germany, Hungary, and Ulyria. The Sclavonians are, in general, less improved than other Europeans. They are chiefly subjected to absolute mon- archy, and the greater part of them arc only beginning to emerge from the degrading condition of personal slavery. The majority profess that form of Christianity acknowledged by the Greek Church. The Teutonic race occupies generally the centre and north of Europe ; besides Germany, their original seat, they have filled the greater part of Scandinavia, the Netherlands, and Great Britain, and may be reckoned at 70,000,000. The Teutonic people generally are brave, hardy, intelligent, and industrious, though somewhat blunt and unpolished. All the sciences, and even the arts, both useful and ornamental, have been carried among them to the highest perfection. A great majority of the Teutonic nations are Protestants ; and that profession is in a great measure confined to them, and to the nations in the other parts of the world who have sprung from them. The Romish race comprehends the modern inhabitants of France, Italy, Spain, &c. They were the most early civilized of the modern nations, and have carried the polish of manners and the cultivation of the elegant arts to a higher pitch than any other known race. In solid energy and intelligence, they 'I EUROPE. 257 countless rn shores theShet- i columns idth. id the sar- ent. The an ; a sub- )vies found ploy annu- of persons, to all parts inent corn- Malta, but great races, , and habits the Romish. >f Russians, s, and Letts, he names of lians, which ungary, and iproved than bsolute mon- ng to emerge The majority ,y the Greek and north of jy have filled s, and Great The Teutonic d industrious, sciences, and been carried majority of the ession is in a IS in the other inhabitants of early civilized ,sh of manners pitch than any elligence, they scarcely equal the Teutonic nations. The Roman Catholic is the ruling religion in all these countries, and has among them her chief seat. This race numbers about 70,000,000. Certain interesting and ancient races remain to be mentioned. They are the Gael, the Cymri, and the Basques, the descendants of the Celts, the most ancient possessors of western Europe. The first inhabit the chief part of Ireland, and the highlands of Scotland ; the Cymri, partly Wales, and the west and south of France, and in the north of Spain, where they are called Basques. They are probably about 7,000,000 in number, of which the Gael amount to 4,650,000; the Cymri 1,700,000; and the Basques 650,000. The Greeks, once the most illustrious of all the races, inhabit Greece and different parts of the Turkish empire. Depressed by two thousand years of slavery, they had ceased to display those high attributes M'hich excited the admiration of mankind ; but the prospects of independence which they have now opened for themselves, afford some hope that they may regain their place in the scale of nations. Their number may be about 2,500,000. The Jews, that singularly interesting people, are spread through all Europe, but especially the eastern countries, Poland, Russia, and Turkey : they are supposed to amount to 2,500,000. The Gypsies, in an humbler sphere, are widely scattered over all Europe, to the supposed number of 500,000, a wild, roaiming, demi-savage race, of unknmvn but probably Asiatic origin. Other races are, the Turks, the ruling people in the Ottoman empire ; and the Magyars, who prevail in Hun- gary and Transylvania, these are originally Asiatic. The former amount to 5,500,000 ; the latter to 3^000,000. In religion, the nations of Europe are almost entirely Chris- tian ; and the small population of Mahomedans who have found their way into it consist of Asiatic races, Turks, and Tartars. The Jews, however generally diffused, have nowhere a national church, nor are they, in any nation, fully identified with the body of the people. The Christians of Europe are divided into three great churches, the Greek, the Latin or Roman Catholic, and the Protestant. The Roman Catholic church comprises the greatest number of followers : they amount probably to 120,000,000, the Protestant church 52,000,000, and the Greek 50,000,000. The Mahomedans are about 5,500,000 in number, and the Jews 2,500,000. In learning, refinement, and all the various pursuits which develope and enlarge the mental faculties, Europe has far sur- passed all the other parts of the earth. The most useful inven- tions, the finest productions of genius, and the improvement of 22* ; ¥'''\ !'■ ■■ '* ' ■ '» ■ ■• ^ ■ if ■ ¥ |i:-i' 1 • ■! ',.;'!-! ' ',1 !• 1 I': : j V !'•-. 258 EUROPE. ull the sciences;, belong to the pcopie of this region. Universi- ties und colleges are numerous in almost all European countries. Some of these are endowed with extensive funds, valuable libra- ries, and botanic gardens, and have numerous professors. They attract many students from various quarters, of whom some are from our own country, and other iiarts of the New World. These institutions provide for tne higher classes of leai*ning, and arc generally on a larger sc d j ihan any in America. Their advantages, however, are seld tui a oinable by the poorer classes of society. In several parts of Europe the common branches of school education are much neglected, and the lower orders of the people are not so well instructed as in the United States. Numbers of them are unable to read or write ; and in some countries, as in Russia, Poland, &c., they are extremely ignorant, degraded, and bigoted. Schools for instructing the poorer classes are most numerous in Prussia, Switzerland, Holland, Belgium, and Scotland. In the latter country, more of the people receive a learned education than elsewhere. England, Germany, and France, excel in lite- rature and science, and Italy is distinguished for proficiency in the fine arts. The prevailing governments of Europe are either absolute or limited monarchies. Russia, Austria, Naples, Denmark, Prussia, Sardinia, «Src., are governed by absolute monarchs according to fixed laws ; while Great Britain, France, Holland, Belgium, Sweden, Norway, &c., are presided over by sovereigns, whose power is limited by the existence of representative assemblies, having the right of enacting laws and regulating taxation. Hun- gary, though attached to an absolute monarchy, enjoys the advantages of a representative government, and national repre- sentatives are guarantied to the states composing the Germanic confederation. The only example of pure despotism in Europe is to be found in the Turkish empire ; and Switzerland is the only independent republic of any magnitude, the others comprising little more than individual cities. The European states which rank highest in the scale of national importance are Great Britain, France, Russia, Austria, and Prussia. These are called the five great powers, and have formed among themselves an alliance, or balance of power, which sets bounds to the encroachments of any particular state. These great monarchies direct and control the afliiirs of every European nation, and more or less influence the destinies of all civilized countries. Europe comprises 61 independent slates : of these, three are styled empires, 16 kingdoms, seven grand duchies, one electorate, SWEDEN AND NORWAY. 259 11 duchies, one landgraviate, 11 principalities, one lordship, one ecclesiastical state, and nine republics. The governments of the last mentioned are based mostly upon aristocratic principles, and their existence depends chiefly on the suflerance of the larger powers. There are also several countries styled kingdoms, which yet are dependent states ; as the Lombardo-Venetian kingdom ; the kingdoms of Hungary and Galicia, in Austria, and the king- dom of Norway, forming part of the Swedish monarchy. EXTENT AND POPULATION OF EUROPE. SUtea. Area iu iqu. m. Fopulat'n. Sweden and Norway 297,000. . .4,000,000 Russia and Poland 1,755,000.. 49,000,000 Denmark 22,UU0. • .2,100,000 Ifoiand 11,000. . .2,800,000 Belgium 13,000. . .4,200,000 Great Britain and Ireland 131,000. .25.(K)0,000 France 205,000. .32,500,000 Spain 183,000.. 12,000,000 Portueal 59,000. . .3,600,000 Prussia 107,000. 14,000,000 Sbitei. Area in 'jqu. ni, Fopiilat'o, Austria 259,000. .33,000,000 Gorman States 102,000. .15,000,000 Switzerland 15,000. .2.000,000 Italy 122,000. .21,000,000 Ionian Islands 1000 190,000 Greece 21,000 .. . .610,000 Turkey 207,000. . .9,000,000 Total 230,000,000 SWEDEN AND NORWAY. Sweden and Norway, now united into one kingdom, com- prise an extensive region, stretching from the Baltic Sea to the Arctic Ocean. The whole country forms a vast peninsula up- wards of 1200 miles in length, and from 300 to 500 in breadth. Area, 297,000 square miles. The northern part of this region is exposed to all the rigours of an arctic winter : the sun continues above the horizon in sum- mer for two months and a half, and in winter remains below it for an equal space of time. The summer is short, and succeeds the winter so suddenly that spring hardly exists. The southern parts, however, of both Sweden and Norway, especially the for- mer, contain many fertile and well-cultivated districts. The climate, though subject to great and sudden changes, is neverthele.ss healthful ; and many of the inhabitants, especially of Norway, live to a great age. Extensive forests cover a large portion of the country, and but a small part of it is suited to farming. The commerce of this kingdom is greater than its unimproved agriculture and total want of manufactures might lead us to suppose. But nature has gifted these bleak territories with an almost inexhaustible store of timber and iron, two of the prime necessaries of human life. The exports of Norway are estimated at near 9,000,000 dol- lars annually. The commerce of Sweden is inferior in amount, 860 EUROPE. f Ih W.4\ M 1"' Ml?'' 'Mi' Ml ,1V her surplus timber being not quite so nnople. though her iron is superior. The manufactures ot' both countries are inconsidera- ble, and the products of their industry cr.iinot sustain a competi- tion with those of other nations. Even in the common trades, the work is lazily and ill performed, and charged at a high rate,, which renders this the most cxpent,ive country in Europe l')r those who live luxuriously. The mines of silver, copper, lead, and especially iron, consii tuto the chief wealth of this country. The prmcjpal silver and copper mines are in Sweden. The mines of Fab.lun have been worked upwards of 1000 years, and produce 1,500,000 pounds of copper annually. Large quantities of excellent iron have been worked in Sweden, and it likewise produces porphyry, roclc- crysita!, (tobalt, alum, and antimony. The mines of No*'way are less productive than T^rmerly. Agriculture is the rnployment of the chief part of the popu- lation. In Sweden iWc !nni!. except in some of the northern dis- tricts, is principally in ilio hands of a few rich proprietors, and the peasants and laboure) 5 arc little better than slaves. Much of the soil is .sterile, nnd sometimes there is not sufficient grain raised for the support ol' the people, and occasionally the poor in both divisions of the kingdom grind the bark, or even wood of the fir-tree, and mix it with their flour. Barley, oats, and rye, are the principal grains ; and potatoes, hemp, and flax, and some tobacco, are cultivated in the southern districts. Sweden comprises three general divisions, Gothland, Sweden Pru[)er, and Norrland, which are divided into 26 lans or govern- mentj, Norway comprises four dioceses or governments, "which are divided into 22 provinces. The population of Sweden is 2,880,000; of Norway, 1,120,000 : total, 4,000,000. The religion of the kingdom is Lutheran, and the church Epis- copal. Tn Sweden, however, the system is burthened with much form and ceremony. The Catholics labour under a restricted toleration, and are excluded from the Diet and the higher offices of state. In Norway education is more general than in the ad- joining kingdom, where the lower classes seldom learn more than to read sufficiently to understand the catechism and to entitle them to church confirmation. In Sweden there is much refine- ment of taste and manners difllised among the better classes, while, in the inferior, intemperance and pauperism extensively prevail ; and in 1825 one-fifth of the population required public relief. There are universities at Upsal, Lund, and Christiania ; and a number of gymnasia or colleges in both countries. Sweden and Norway have different constitutions, though under ■^'n "I ... ■ NORWAY. 261 iron m nsidera- 3ompeti- I trades, igh rate, irope lor ri, consii ilver and avo been pounds ron have vry, rock- oji'way are the popu- rthern clis- ietors, and QS. Much jient grain the poor in sn wood oi 5, and rye, ic, and sortie nd, Sweden 1 or govern- ients,Avhich Sweden is 0. jhurchEpis- d with much a restricted ioher offices iTin the ad- rn more than id to entitle much refine- Btter classes, 1 extensively squired public and a the government of one and the same king, who is, of all the con- stitutional monarchs of Europe, one of the most limited. The legislative body of Sweden, stylod the Diet or States General, consists of four orders, the nobles, the clergy, the burgesses, and the peasantry. In Norway nobility is abolished ; and the legis- lative body, styled the Storthing, consists of two houses. The latter body is possessed of much higher privileges than the Swedish Diet. It assembles more frequently, and at its own time, without any control from the king ; and any bill sanctioned three times by the Storthing, becomes a law, without his approval. The executive power of Norway is administered by a viceroy or governor. The military force of this kingdom is at present 138,000 men; regular army, 45,000 ; landwehr or militia, 93,000. The troops are raised by conscription ; they only receive pay when in actual service, remaining at other times in the provinces, where they employ themselves in cultivating lands assigned to them for their support. The navy comprises ten ships of the line, eight frigates, two steam-ships, and upwards of 200 gun-boats. The Swedish and Norwegian dialects differ but little from each other, and are closely allied to the Danish. The habits, manner, and character of the two nations, have, to some extent, a general resemblance : they are both lively and cheerful in disposition ; hospitable, brave, and warlike, and strongly attached to their respective countries. The principal difference consists in the su- perior moral and religious condition of the people of Norway. itiania ; though under NORWAY. Norway was united to Denmark in the year 1380, and con- tinued to form a part of the Danish monarchy until 1814, when it was annexed to Sweden. It is, however, so far independent, that the finances, legislation, and administration, are distinct. The press is free, and a highly republican spirit prevails. This is one of the most mountainous countries in Europe, and it abounds in sublime and romantic scenery. Numerous streams descend from the mountains, but none are navigable except to a very limited extent, and the only river considerable for length is the Glommen, which flows into the sea in the southern part of the country. Cataracts and shoals obstruct its course in every part, and the only use to which it is applied is that of floating down timber from the mountains. There are numerous lakes in this country, but none of them are of any magnitude. The inlets of the sea, which indent the f^(^ 262 p:urope. J ■ (■'i" ' i' ^■i • 1'?' n- ■■ . ; « 111' 1, .i!' I .1! '! v.: . :,■: !.■ i^" .1 li .1 whole coast of Norway, are almost innumerable : they are called in the language of the country fiords ; but few of them, however, afford good harbours. The northern part of this region, called Norrland, is extremely cold and rugged. Grain, even of the coarsest descriptions, ripens only in a few favoured spots. The climate, however, is somewhat milder than that of regions under the same latitude on the Baltic ; so that, while the ports of Stockholm and Carlscrona are ahut during several months of the year, those of Norrland remain continually open. This dreary district is chiefly remairkable for being the princi- pal seat of the Norwegian fishery, a branch which constitutes an important part of the industry of the country. During the whole year, the herring affords a regular occupation to the Norr- land boatmen ; but from February to April, the shoals, migrating from thence, and from all the surrounding coasts, crowd to the Loffbden Islands, the central seat of the northern fishery. These islands form a chain parallel to the land, and separated by narrow channels, through which ihe tides of the Northern Ocean rush with tremendous rapidity. Malstrom, the famous whirlpool, when the tide is high, produces the effect of a mighty cataract. Waves are seen struggling against waves, towering aloft, or wheeling about in whirlpools ; the dashing and roaring of which are heard many miles out at sea. Christiania, the capital of Norway, is situated at the head of a long interior bay. It is chiefly supported by the trade in deals or lumber ; and those cut in its saw-mills are considered, by the traders in this article, to be superior to all otherr , Some of the merchants of this city have acquired great wealth. The build- ings are regular, and mostly of stone; so that, in the course of 200 years, while other Scandinavian towns have been repeatedly reduced to ashes, Christiania has suffered only slight injury from fire. Since the union with Sweden, it has received an imiversity, with two professors, who have moderate incomes, chiefly derived from grain. Population, 21,000. There are other havens of some importance in this southern tract of Norway. On the western coast of Christiania fiord, the two, Bragenass and Stromsoe, unite in forming wjiat is called Dram, or Drammen, at the mouth of the river of that name. Tongsberg, at the bottom of the same side, is a town of some ancient celebrity, but now a good deal decayed. On the eastern side of the same bay is Moss, watered by a stream turning 20 saw-mills, by which an immense quantity of boards is prepared for exportation. Frederickshall, an ancient and still important frontier town, is beautifully situated in an interior bay, winding .fit SWEDEN. 2Ud |r are them, emely ptions, ver, is ude on [scrona orrland . princi- istitutes •ing the le Norr- ligrating d to the separated Northern e famous a mighty towering d roaring head of a 3 in deals ed, by the me of the The build- course of repeatedly njury from university, jfly derived is southern la fiord, the at is called that name, vn of some the eastern turning 20 is prepared 1 important ay, winding among mountains. Near it is the strong fortress of Frederick- stadt, the scene of the death of Charles aII. The town of Bergen, at the head of a long interior bay, was formerly accounted the capital of Norway, and contains a popu- lation of 22,000. Its commerce, which is considerable, is found- ed on the exportation, less of the produce of the country behind it, than of the northern fishery at the LolT( .en Isles, of which the produce is brought to Bergen by numerous barks. Its mer- chants had long the monopoly of this, and still retain much the greatest share. Thoy are chiefly Dutch, and send a vessel weekly to Amsterdam for a supply of the garden stuflls which their own soil does not yield. Bergen consists of large masses of wooden houses, built amid rocks, and has suflered, at various times, severely by fire. Drontheim is situated on the shore of a winding fiord, but subsists less by foreign commerce than by the internal communi- cation between numerous valleys and districts, to which it forms a central point of union. The society is always held forth as representing under the happiest light the genuine Norwegian character ; its warmth of kindness, and generous hospitality. Drontheim is built wholly of wood, and has in consequence been seven times burnt to the ground ; yet the houses are handsome, and ornamented with taste. There is a spacious palace, built wholly of this material, and partaking its imperfection. It also contains the remains of a cathedral, the largest edifice in the country, and to which the whole population of the north came once in pilgrimage. The environs are very beautiful, with numerous country-seats, and lofty snow-crowned hills in the distance. The little town of Hammerfest, on the island of Qualoe, is the most northerly settlement in Europe, and perhaps in the world, inhabited solely by a civilized people. There are several mercantile houses here connected with the fisheries ; and some trade is carried on with Bergen, and also with the Russians from Archangel. SWEDEN. Sweden, though enclosed by high mountains on the north and west, is in general a flat country, much diversified by lakes and rivers. A great part of it is covered with thick forests, which are interspersed in the middle and southern districts with nume- rous small, but well-cultivated farms. The mountains consist chiefly of the dark and lofty chain of the Dofrafields, which wem for ages a barrier between the two \\ -', i-'ji 204 K II K (J P E . I" I', W^ [/; V ^:| I'll'*' : 1. '.'I :. •! separate and formerly hostile states of .Sweden a:id Norway, but are now included within tlio united kingdom, yorne of these mountains attain the height of 8000 foot. The rivers arc numerous, Sweden being a country profusely watered ; but, as they rise in tlie Dofrurteld mountains, and tra- verse the divided breadth of the peninsula, they seldom attain any material length of eonrse. The largest ia the Dahl, which falls into the sea at Gefle, after a course of 300 miles. The most im- portant as to navigation, are those which form the outlet to the lakes, particularly the Gotha, reaching from the lake Wcner to the Baltic near Gottenburg. The Wener is the largest of the Swedish lakes ; it is a fmo sheet of water, upwards of 80 miles long, and is, by means of its outlets, the Gotha river and the canal of Trolhatta,. connected with the sea at Gottenburg. The AVetter, though nearly equal in length, covers uot nearly so great an extent of ground. Lake Malar is properly a narrow bay, running 60 miles into the inte- rior from Stockholm. Snmll lakes, enclosed between hills, are of frequent occurrence, both in Norway and Sweden. The prin- cipal islands belonging to this kingdom are Gothland, Oland, and Bornholm, in the Baltic Sea, and St- Bartholomew in the West Indies. In this country the people are divided into four distinct classes, the nobility, the clergy, the citizens or burghers, and the peasants. The last mentioned class, though represented in the Diet, or na- tional legislature, do not occupy the position which such a privi- lege would seem to indicate. Although Sweden on various occasions, particularly in the reign of Gustavus Adolphus and Charles XII., exercised great influence upon the affairs of Europe, its political importance, from the remoteness of its position, the scantiness of its population, and its general poverty, cannot be rated very high at the presejit day, and its military and naval power can hardly ever be very formidable to the great European states. In science the Swedes, considering their circumstances and situation, have made a very distinguished figure. They have cultivated, with peculiar ardour, botany and mineralogy ; and have also made largo contributions to chemistry, which is still ably pursued by several distinguished individuals. From the limited sphere of the Swedish language, few works of science are written in it, or translated into it : hence the learned men of Sweden are particularly well versed in the languages of foreign nations. Stockholm, the capital, is situated at the junction of the lake Malar with an inlet of the Baltic. It stands upon seven small ti LAPLANU. 205 way, l»ui of these profusely , and tra- illain any hich falla most im* tlet to the Wener to I 18 a fine leans of its connected ^arly equal ind. Lake to the inte- u hills, are The prin- Oland, and ;n the West tinct classes, the peasants. . Diet, or na- such a privv- ularly in the ercised great )ortance, from s population, at the presept ever be very imstances and They have [leralogy; and which is stiU Is. From the ,rks of science earned men of iges of foreign ion of the lake on seven small rocky islands, lx;.sidcs two peninsulas, and is built upon piles. Tlio central island is bordered by a stately row of buildings, iho residences of the principal merchants. It contains the palace (wjd other public buildings ; but the houses being high, and the streets narrow, its appearance is somewhat gloomy. At a short distance from the royal palace stands a fme statue of Gustavuii III., in bronze, on a pedestal of polished porphyry. The city has likewise an arsenal, a mint, an exchange, and two theatres. The harbour is deep and capacious, though difKcult of access : a thousand sail of shipping may lie here in safety, and the largest vessels can approach close to the quay. Population, 78,000. Upsal, formerly the great metropolis of Sweden, is situated on an extensive plain, upon the small river Fyrisa. In the r ntre of the town is a square, from which the streets rxtend in straight line:^. This town is famous for its beautiful cathedral, and for its university, which has a library of 40,000 volumes. Popula- tion, 5000. Gottenburg, near the mouth of the river Gotha, has a circum- ference of three miles. It is regularly fortified, and in the upper part of the town the streets rise above each other like an amphi- theatre. Some of the modern buildings are of brick, but the greater number are of wood, and painted red. The harbour is spacious, and the commerce considerable. Population, 26,000. Carlscrona, on the bay of the Baltic, is the station of the Swedish navy, and has a harbour which is defended at its en- trance by two strong forts. It is celebrated for its docks, which are separated from the town by a high wall, and one of which is cut out of the solid rock. Population, 12,000. Malmoe, exactly opposite Copenhagen, contains about 5000 inhabitants, and possesses some commerce, though the harbour is bad. Fahlun, 150 miles north-west from Stockholm, is remarkable for its extensive copper-mines. The number of forges here give the town a very sombre appearance. Popula- lation, 5000. Gefle, on the Gulf of Bothnia, is a well-built town, with some foreign commerce. Population, 10,000. LAPLAND. Lapland is a cold and desolate region lying to the north of the Arctic Circle. It belongs nominally to Sweden and Russia, but such are the sterility of the soil and the poverty of the peo- ple, that they are left to themselves, and are not under the cog- nizance of any general government. This country is mostly rough and mountainous ; but in some districts there are extensive plains and morasses. Through 23 . 266 KlIROPK. "i '• I: 11: ■ ■ ■ ' V' ; , ■ ■■ Jl: ►: I these roll the Lulen, Kalix, Tornca, I'lnefi, and other rivers, which, though of considerable length of course, are not naviga* bio to any extent. The Laplanders are of short stature, being generally less than five feet in height, of brown complexion, with black hair, pointed chin, and eyes rendered weak by exposure to the smoke and snow. They are a simple, harmless people, greatly attached to their native country, and are never known to leave it. War is their aversion, and no instance has ever occurred of any of them becoming soldiers. In summer they live in tents ; and in x.inter in low rude huts, formed of stones and earth, and covered with turf. The floor is spread with rein-deer skins, having the hair upwards, and which thus serve for either lying or sitting ; their tents and huts being too low to stand in. A tire is made in the middle, and there is a hole at the top, to which the smoke must find its way ; but this it does not effect till it has thickly impregnated the whole npace with its fumes ; which, however, are valued as affording a protection in winter against the cold, and in summer against the swarms of musquitoes, with which, during u period of short and extreme heat, the air is infested. The Laplanders travel from place to place, and seldom live in towns. They move their families, usually at the beginning of winter and summer, in sledges made in the form of a boat, and drawn by rein-deer. These swill-footed animals form their riches; the flesh and milk comprise their food, and the skins their furni* ture and clothing. The herds of rein-deer vary from 300 to upwards of 1000 in number, according to the wealth of the pos- sessor. All day they wander over the hills, and in the evening are driven into an enclosed space, where they are milked. Each yields only about a tea-cupful of milk ; but rich, aromatic, and of exquisite taste. The dress of these people is carefully contrived for the pur- poses of warmth. The under part, or shirt, is composed >'f sheep's skin, with the wool inwards ; while the exterior coat is formed by the skin of the rein-deer, or some other animal, having the fur outwards. They add fur gloves, and a woollen pointed red cap. The few villages found in Lapland are very small, seldom containing more than 100 or 200 inhabitants; and the whole nation, though occupying a country nearly equal in extent to France, is supposed not to exceed 30,000 inhabitants. The Laplanders have been nearly all converted to Christianity, and are attentive to its dutiesjcomi^g often from great distances to attend divine service, though the instructions are conveyed to .1 nUKSlAN KMI'IRR. 2«37 iromatic, and them only through the broken nuidium of anintorpretcr. They observe the sabbath very strictly, and never use profane languaj^o. Among them great crimes are unknown, a murder not having been committed in twenty years. The people of this country do not show that open hospitality and warmth of heart for which rude nations are so often cele- brated. They are cold, shy, mistrustful, and dilTicult to treat with, at least unless tobacco or brandy he brought in as a medi- ator. They were formerly very superstitious; and the Lapland witches were famous for their empire over the winds, which they pretended to enclose in bags, and sold to the mariner. The magic drum and ihu enchanted cliuiu are still in occasional use. RUSSIAN EMPIRE. The Russian Empire is ihc largest in the world. It com* prises extensive regions in both hemispheres, is twice the size of Europe, and is supposed to exceed greatly the most extensive empires of antiquity. It reaches more than half-way round tho globe, and embraces upwards of one-seventh part of the land surface of the earth. Russia in Europe, Russia in Asia, and the Russian possessions in North America, are its grand divisions. Area in square miles, 7,555,000. Population about 60,000,000. From the immense extent of this empire, and its geographical position on the globe, a great part of it is condemned to almost constant frost and snow, and vast tracts are barren and sterile ; yet there are extensive territories that are fruitful and productive, and under the influence of free and liberal institutions, would become among the most favoured regions in the world. But few nations, either of ancient or modern times, can furnish tin instance of such rapid increase in area and population, as Russia : less than 400 years ago it contained only the one- twentieth part of its extent at this time; and 100 years ago the inhabitants amounted to only one-fourth of their present number. Th(3 annexation of Finland, nearly tho whole of Poland, and vari- ous districts of Turkey and Persia, with its possessions in North America, have, within less than a century, added greatly to the territories of this empire. The inhabitants consist of a greater variety of different nations than is to be found under any other government \u the world. The chief races in European Russia are Russians, Poles, Finns, Tartars, Turks, Cossacks, &c. In Asia, besides the various barbarous and savage tribes that inhabit Siberia, there are the n m ' -:w- • t t'! 1* ' , '; • h. .: ■i.r- ■:■■;■: i ' ■ ■ . *■ *■.. ■ 1: ■■ r - (l, ,- «.■■■ . •'«il i^i^:: l:■■^ •*( 1: 1:1! r :'.i< 268 EUROPE. Tartars, Circassians, Georgians, Persians, and Armenians, that people the provinces bordering on the Caspian Sea ; with the Esquimaux and Indian tribes of the American possessions. The government of this empire is an absolute monarchy. The emperor is the head of church and state, and is styled the auto- crat of all the Russias : all power emanates from him, and he is supposed to derive his authority from God alone. There is also a body styled the Council of the Empire, a ministry, and a senate, the last of which is a collection of individuals nominated by the monarch, and serves but little other purpose than that of promul- gating his decrees or ukases. The established religion is that of the Greek Church, but all others are tolerated ; and there are to be found in Russia, Roman Catholics, Protestants, Mahomedans, Jews and Pagans. The ecclesiastical ceremonies of the Russians are exceedingly pomp- ous and splendid, and the feast of Easter is celebrated with brilliant magnificence. They have a great veneration for the pictures with which their churches are furnished, and the Crea- tor is too generally lost sight of in the worship of the represent- ation of his creatures. The establishment of the Russian church is very cumbrous, there being between 30 and 40 bishops and archbishops, a very large body of clergy, and a great number of monasteries. The affairs of the church are regulated by a tribunal called the Holy Synod, but its decrees are issued in the name of the emperor. The military force of this empire is the largest in Europe, and IS a source of anxiety to the neighbouring states. The regular army amounts to 700,000 men, said to be well trained and orga- nized. The real strength of the Russian army has always con- sisted, not in its numbers, but in the passive and iron valour of its infantry, and the rapid and skilful movements of its irregular cavalry — the Cossacks, the Baschkirs, and other Asiatic nomades. Its field artillery also has commanded the admiration of the best tacticians. The Russian navy on the Baltic and Black seas, consists of about 50 ships of the line, 25 frigates, 8 steam-ships, and a number of smaller vessels, manned by upwards of 40,000 men. The present emperor has shown a strong predeliction in favour of the navy, which has of late years rapidly improved in the efiective number of ships and men, and in its general organiza- tion. The commerce is extensive and annually increasing, having doubled in amount in about 25 years. The exports are tallow, hemp, sail-cloth, iron, timber, and grain. The inland trade is very considerable, and is much facilitated by navigable rivers, RUSSIAN EMPIRK. 2G9 canals, and lakes ; and by the snow in winter, over which sleighs travel with great rapidity. Great fairs are held in different places, which attract vast crowds of merchants and traders from all parts. The seal and sturgeon fisheries of the river Volga, and of the Caspian and Black Seas, are extensive and very productive. Upwards of 10,000 fishing boats are employed on the Volga alone : the sturgeon is the principal fish caught, from which isin- glass, caviare and oil are made. Salted and smoked mackerel form an important article of the commerce of the Crimea. Large quantities of fish are conveyed from the fisheries in winter in a frozen state to the great cities. A steam navigation company has been formed for the purpose of introducing steam vessels upon the Caspian Sea, and the Volga and other rivers ; and the Russian company is to extend the navigation upon the Baltic and Black Seas. The manufactures of Russia have been until lately altogether rude and coarse, consisting of sail-cloth, duck sheeting, cordage, &c. ; but within the last fifteen or twenty years, the government has by high rewards allured foreign manufacturers, and has founded establishments wherein is substituted free and well-paid in place of slave iaboui*. Woollen, cotton, and silk goods, of various kinds, are manufactured in considerable quantities; also, glass, porcelain, paper, and jewelry. Coarse woollens for family use are made to a great extent. The agriculture of Russia is in a backward state, yet in con- sequence of the numbers employed in tilling the ground, the pro- duce is very abundant. Rye, oats, and barley, are raised in the northern districts, and excellent wheat in the south. Flax and hemp are staple productions : the sugar-beet is cultivated to some extent ; and the raising of cattle, horses, sheep, bees, and silk- worms, occupy numbers of the inhabitants. Poland rears many cattle, and raises much grain; but the progress of asrriculture in that country has been greatly retarded by Russian tyranny. Although the literature of Russia must be considered in its infancy, yet the works of some of her learned men have of late drawn attention even in foreign countries. A number of peri- odical publications issue from the press in St. Petersburg and Moscow. A reading public has been gradually formed, and new works are continually printed ; but the liberty of the press is grievously fettered by a corrupt and despotic censorship. Though ignorance is general in Russia, yet much has been done to spread the means of education, and steps have been taken to diffjse knowledge over the empire. Every parish, or two parishes united, is to have a school as fast as it is possible to 23* •!i:-fii!i' 270 EUROPE. u If' .. • K p- ■„ ,1», ,' .'■?' ■' ' 1 ■:•■. 1 \'i Jir^,. , aii: ; ■ I • 1^ i I' provide the requisite number of qualified teachers. There are besides upwards of 500 general establishments, and more than 50 gymnasia, where students are prepared for the universities, of which there are six, viz. one at St. Petersburg, Moscow, Kiev, Kazan, Dorpat, and Charkov. There are several schools for the education ofinstructers, and upwards of 150 schools attended by- students in theology. The Jews have a celebrated national insti- tution, and there are besides, medical, mineral, mining, marine, and other schools. The great body of the Russian nation is divided into the dis- tinct classes of nobles and slaves. The former include in their numbers many well-informed, intelligent, and liberal individuals. Their cultivation, both as to manner and intellect, is principally derived from France, whose language is almost exclusively spoken at court, and whose writers alone are generally read. The fortunes of the nobility are in some cases truly enormous, especially when compared with the cheapness of provisions. The head of the Scheremetov family, reckoned the richest, is said to have 125,000 slaves, estimated at 150 rubles each. The nobles generally spend these estates in profuse and ostentatious hospi- tality, combining, though not very tastefully, the open house of the feudal baron, with the elegance and splendour of Parisian luxury. The slaves, the other extreme of Russian society, form still the great mass of the people. This ill-fated class is divested of every right, political and personal, scarcely excepting that of life. The master has the full power of the lash, which is liberally exercised, and of every other corporeal punishment which does not produce death in twenty-four hours. There is, indeed, a law by which the master may, in that case, be brought to justice ; and there are marshal's courts, to which, in certain cases, the slave may appeal ; but these means of redress are practically very precarious. The slaves frequently agree with their masters to pay them an annual rent, or obrok, on condition of their being allowed to migrate to the towns, and to carry on trades. Many of them have, in this way, acquired very considerable wealth, and have been enabled to purchase their freedom. Many of the amusements in Russia are those of the children in other countries. A large assembly will often entertain them- selves with forfeits and other similar games. In the cities, ice mountains form a favourite recreation. These are inclined planes, high and steep, covered with ice, down which the people descend in cars or on skates, and with the greatest velocity. There are swings used of various sorts, some turning in a perpendicular, and others in a iiorizontal manner. On certain festivals, ail RUSSIA IN EUROPE. 271 these are placed in the public squares, and the people mingle in the amusements with much animation, and without distinction of rank. RUSSIA IN EUROPE. Russia is the most extensive region in Surope. It comprises more than one-half of the area of that division of the continent, and stretches from the Baltic Sea to the Ural mountains. Its surface is generally level, its chief features being extensive plains and large rivers, with numerous lakes, in the north-western quarter. It is bounded on the north by the Arctic Ocean, south by the Black Sea and the southern part of Asiatic Russia, east by Sibe- ria, and west by Sweden, the Gulf of Bothnia, Prussia, Austria, and Turkey ; making an extent of about 1800 miles from north to south, and 1300 from east to west. The area is estimated to amount to 1,755,000 square miles, with about 50,000,000 of inhabitants. European Russia comprises almost 30° of latitude, and pos- sesses great diversity of climate. Thj White Sea, and the ocean which washes the northern coasts, are covered with ice from September to June, and the rivers in this quarter are frozen for a still longer period. In the morasses and lakes the frost - ildom disappeai's at all ; and the heat of the sun does not penetrate more than a few inches into the marshy soil. During the brief and cheerless summer, the atmosphere is loaded with fogs. At St. Petersburg the temperature is milder, but the Neva is frozen from November till May. In the south the climate is «1<^lightful, and vegetation is flourishing. The surface of European Russia is the most level cf any in Europe. A great portion in the south, especially, consists of those immense levels called Steppes, over which the eye may range for hundreds of miles without seeing a hil! They termi nate at the long chain of the Urals, which, rising like a wall, separates them from the equally vast plains of Siberia. The Ur.'l Mountains are the principal elevation of this region ; they are scarcely known, but are said to be well wooded, and rich in minerals especially on the Asiatic side. The Olonetz Mountains, in the north-west, are a prolongation of the Dofrafield range ; there are r.lso the Valdai hills, in the centi'e, and the mountains of the Crimea, in t ie south. The Volga is the largest ru er of this part of the Russian dominions, and also of Europe. Rising not far from the Baltic Sea, it traverses the central and south-east provinces of the em- I .',1' 272 EURUPK. i',-ii> .If. 1^ '': 'r ii. II « - ,. . I pirc, and after forming part of the boundary between Europe and Asia, it flows by a number of mouths into the Caspian Sea, below Astrachan. This great stream is navigable through the whole of its course of 2000 miles, and is connected with the Gulf of Finland by a navigable canal. The Don, Dnieper, Dniestei', &c. empty into the Black, and the Niemen and Duna into the Baltic Sea. The Dwina, Mesene, and Onega, flow north- ward into the White Sea. The chief lakes of Russia are those of Ladoga and Onega : they are each more than 100 miles in length, and form a sort of continuation of the Gulf of Finland. North and west of these are a multitude of lakes of various forms and dimensions, of which the Kalla and Purus appear to be the principal. South of the Gulf of Finland are the lakes of Piepus and Ilrnen, of which the first is a considerable sheet of water. The cold and dreary islands of Nova Zembla and Spitsbergen belong to Russia : they lie to the northward of the Arctic Circle, and are not inhabited by man. These islands abound with white bears, reindeer, seals, whales, &c., and are resorted to by hunt- ers and fishermen. In Spitsbergen an almost perpetual winter reigns, and it seems nearly impossible for human beings to exist; yet a company of Archangel merchants have established a fish- ing and hunting post on it, and it is in consequence the most northerly inhabited spot on the globe. The islands of Aland, Dago, and Oesel, in the Baltic Sea, also form a part of this empire. The canal navigation of Russia, so far as it has hitherto been carried, has been exclusively the work of government. The canal of Ladoga joins the lake of -that name with the Neva. The canal of Vishnei Vosholk connects the Caspian Sea at As- trachan, with the Baltic at St. Petersburg. A canal is now in progress to extend the communication from St. Petersburg to Archangel. There are eight or ten other canals completed, or in a state of forwardness. These works ''r.ve all been executed within the last 100 years. European Russia is divided into 41 governments and two pro- vinces, exclusive of the territory of the Cossacks of the Don, which forms a sort of military repubUc, the grand duchy of Fin- land, which has a distinct administration, and the late kingdom of Poland. Geographically, it comprises the Baltic provinces, containing four governments, and Finland ; Great Russia, in- cluding 19 governments; Southern Russia, containing three governments, and the province of Bessarabia ; Western Russia, composed of seven governments and one province ; and Eastern Russia, comprising eight governments. St. Petersburg, the metropolis of the Russian empire, is situated RUSSIA IN EUROPE, 27« Europe in Sea, igh the ,'ith the )niepev, d Duna AT north- Onega : n a sort or these sions, o( . South Irnen, of (itsbergen ic Circle, vith white ) by hunt- iial winter s to exist; led a fish- e the most of Aland, lis empire, herto been lent. The the Neva. Sea at As- is now in ersburg to npleted, or in executed id two pro- .f the Don, chy of Fin- te kingdom provinces, Russia, iij- ftining three ern Russia, ind Eastern e, is situated I at the head of the Gulf of Finland, and is built partly upon the mainland, and partly upon some small islands near the mouth of the river Pvieva. One of its entrances is adorned with a mag- nificent triumphal arch. The foundation of the city is extremely marshy, and so low as to subject it to frequent inundations from the waters of the gulf. It was founded in 1703, by Peter the Great, the spot being then occupied only by a few fishermer.'s huts. The streets of the city are mostly intersected by spacious canals, embanked by parapets of hewn stone, and spanned at convenient distances by arched bridges of magnificent construc- tion. The quays along the Neva are remarkably magnificent. Tho* houses are usually of brick, covered with stucco, and pre- sent a white and dazzling appearance at a distance. The views upon the borders of the Neva are of an extremely grand and lively description. The river is deep, rapid, and as transparent as crystal ; and its banks are lined on each side with a continued range of noble buildings. One of the chief subjects worthy of attention here, is the equestrian statue of Peter the Great, in bronze. The Kazan church, built of marble, is a work of stupendous dimensions ; but that of St. Isaac, now near I's completion, will perhaps sur- pass it in magnificence. The Admiralty is a spacious and mag- nificent edifice, and the spire being covered with gilding, is seen from all parts of the city. The Hermitage, in a palace of the emperor, contains one of the finest cclIoCtions of paintings in Europe. The Exchange is beautifully situated, with a quay in front : it is surrounded with pillars, and decorated with marble statues. During the winter, no part of the city is more crowded than the Neva. Enclosed places are allotted to the skaters ; and sledge-races and various other amusements are generally prac- tised. Population, 450,000. Moscow, the former capital, stands on the river Moskva, 487 miles south-east of St. Petersbuig. Before the year 1812, it was one of the largest cities in Europe, being nearly 20 miles in cir- cumference. The Kremlin is a superb structure, or rather a motley mass of gaudy buildings, comprehending the imperial palace and chapel, the public offices, the cathedral and other churches, and the arsenal. At the French invasion the city was set on fire, and two-thirds of it destroyed. It is now mostly rebuilt. The streets aie, in general, broad, and some of them are paved ; others, particularly those in the suburbs, are floored with trunks of trees, or boarded with planks. Wretched hovels are blended with large palaces ; some parts of the city have the appearance of a sequestered desert, and others that of a populous town. One of the curiosities of this place is the great bell, ' li- M T^ 274 EUROPE. n. »'. t \. li! ■^ ^ j of grain is computed to avurugc 16,000,000 bushels. Other ex- ports aro hemp, flax, cattle, timber, wax, and honey. The Poles are, except the nobles, among the most illiterate and least civilized nations of Europe. The language is a dialect of the Sclavonic ; but the Latin is in general use in literary com- position, and even in conversation among the higher ranks. The inhabitants of Poland aro Catholics, members of the Greek church, Jews, Lutherans, and Unitarians. The Jews comprise the men of business of the country : the current money is chiefly in their hands, and a great proportion of the land is mortgaged to them. Society in this country consists, as in Russia, of two distinct orders, the nobles and the peasantry. The first, who are more numerous than in any other part of Europe, have always, in the eye of the public, formed the people of Poland. They are brave, prompt, frank, hospitable, and gay. They have been called the French of the north, and, both from habits and political con- nexion, are attached to that nation. Before their fall, their neigh- bours called them " the proud Poles." They consider it the deep- est disgrace to practise any profession, even law or medicine ; and, in case of utmost necessity, they would prefer the plough. The luxury of modern times, and the variations in the price of grain, have very generally involved thera in pecuniary embar- rasjjinsnts, and placed many of their fortunes in the hands of Jews- The latter, sober, industrious, parsimonious, and crafly, form a numerous and separate people in the heart of Poland. Once a vear occur what are called the Polish contracts, when the no- bles repair to the principal towns, Kiev, Minsk, Warsaw, and Wiina, to sell their lands, pay their interest, and negotiate all their money transactions. Hither their wives and daughters resort for amusement ; speculators bring their wares ; usurers, musicians, strolling players, and sharpers, come to ply their respective trades. The Poles, in personal appearance, are handsome and vigor- ous. The ladies are celebrated for their beauty, and are consi- dered also more intelligent and agreeable than those of Russia. The peasantry are not absolute slaves ; they are, however, very little above that degrading condition ; an estate, as in Russia, being usually estimated by the number of its peasants. Warsaw, the capital of Poland, is finely situated on the Vistula river. During the war which terminated in the subjugation of Poland, Warsaw stood the heaviest brunt ; and its population in 1782 was reduced to 75,000; but since that time it has rapidly improved, and now contains 150,000. The whole city consists I -I J !ll^ POLAND. 277 her ex- illiterate 1 dialect try com- r ranks, le Greek comprise is chiefly lortgaged o distinct are more ,ys, in the ire brave, called the itical con- [leir neigh- it the deep- medicine ; the plough, he price of ary embar- Q hands of ;rafty, form ind. Once hen the no- arsaw, and egoiiate all I daughters ts; usurers, o ply their ^ and vigor- d are consi- e of Russia. >wever, very in Russia, its n the Vistula ibjugation of population in has rapidly city consists of one long street, with others branching from it ; but these are narrow and dirty, and, as is usual in aristocratic cities, no pro- vision is made for the comfort and accommodation of f(x>t-pas- scugers. The new town is built in a better style ; the government palace and the palace of the minister of finance, are both spkndid build- ings; but the finest part of Warsaw consists of its four suburbs having separate rights and jurisdictions. That of Praga, once a strong citadel, was almost destroyed in the dreadful assault by Suwarrow, in 1795 ; it is now, however, rebuilding. Warsaw originally consisted almost entirely of wooden houses ; but thai material is now prohibited, and three-fourths of its houses are built of stone. The other towns in Poland are only of secondary importance. Lublin, which ranks second, contains 10,000 inhabitants. It is situated pleasantly in one of the most fertile districts of the king- dom, and communicating on the south with others still more fer- tile. It is distinguished by the castle of Casimir the Great, the palace of Sobieski, some fine churches, and the largest synagogue in Poland. Zamosc, in the same vicinity, is an important for- tress. Zalisc, on the Proswa, is rather a well-built town, with 8000 inhabitants, a military school, and some manufactures. The Rai»UBLic of Cracow, situated in the southern part of Poland, owes its existence to the disputes of the despotic powers thut partitioned that kingdom. In 1815 the allied kings, unablo to determine which of their number had the best right to the ter- ritory, resolved that neither should possess it ; and Cracow was declared a I'epublic, under the protection of the three surrounding powers. The degree of freedom whiqh it enjoys, though only by suf- ferance, has rendered its environs more fertile and smiling than those of the rest of Poland. Its surface contains 500 square miles ; and the population of the city amounts to 26,000 ; that of the territory, including the city, to 124,000, of which 12,000 are Jews. The university, once the great school of the north, and frequented by crowds of students, was broken up during the civil commotions, and the attempts to restore it to its ancient splendour have been fruitless. It has at present 30 professors, but not more than 276 students. Cracow is dtv?idedly a Catholic city, and contains 87 monas- teries and 164 nunnories. The cathedral is remarkable for the tomb of St. Stanislaus, the monument of Sobieski, and other venerated mausoh-ums. A remarkable monument has lately been raised here to the memory of Kosciusko ; it consists of a mound, 24 -\^(^a ■^p I f:. '■ >. : ^ 278 HUROPE. Mogila Kosciusko (Kosciusko's Mount), 300 feet in height, nnd 275 feet in diameter iit ti buse, und standing upon u rising ground commanding the Vistula. m \ '.I .1 V iN ^:;;i ft. ^, \ 'I ■ ■ J: . ( ■ ■1 I. ' X" :-;|: •'.;>.' ':.';■■;■!! \\ ■ DENMARK. Denmark is one oi' the most ancient kingdoms in Europe, and was formerly much more powerful than at present. It once exercised an extensive control over the adjacent (.-ountries, but is now reduced in wealth and population, and ranks only us a third or fourth rate monarchy. Denmark, Sweden, and Norway, were formerly called Scandinavia. This kingdom comprises the peninsula of Jutland, and the islands of Zealand, Laaland, Falster, and a 'ia^ others in the Baltic Sea ; these are culled Denmark Proper : there are also the duchies of Sleswick, Holstein, and Lauenburg; the colonies of Iceland, and the Faroe Isles ; some settlements in Greenland, the colonies in the East and West Indies, and a few stations on the coast of Guinea. Area of the European part of the kingdom, 22,000 square miles. Population, 2,100,000. Population of the colonies, 140,000. The climate of Donr.iark, though not subject to severe frost or intense cold, is ch'H ao'l damp, and the land consists in a great measure of sand iuid m irsh. Every part of the kingdom, how- ever, is capable of :>onie cultivation, and occasional tracts of luxuriant fertility occur. Barley, rye, and oats, are the princi- pal grains that are cultivated, and wheat is raised in some quarters. The industry of the farmer in Denmark Proper suffers many severe checks \ he has been but recently emancipated from per- sonal bondage, and is still subjected to many feudal usages. In Holstein and Sleswick the cultivation of the soil is carried on with great skill and activity. The rturing of cattle is also an extensive branch of industry, though too little attention has been paid to the improvement of the breeds, except on the west coast of Sleswick, on whose rich meadows is produced what bears a high reputation under the name of Hamburg beef. Over all Denmark the produce of the dairy forms the basis of a large export trade. The manufactures of Denmark are rude, and consist chiefly in working up the flax and wool of the country in a coarse form for domestic use. A large proportion also of the wool is exported. The government has made great efforts to raise Denmark to the !".;'■ i:;P ^! I.'; Mil DENMARK. 879 ?ight, and i ti rising in Europe, it. It once tries, but is y us a third d Norway, ul, and the thors in the are also the colonies ot reenland, the tions on the the kingdom, ulation of the Bvere frost or fs in a great mgdom, hovv- nal tracts of •e the princi- ised in some suffers many ted from per- usages. In is carried on tie is also an ition has been he west coast what bears a leeu Over all sis of a large consist chiefly a coarse form _jol is exported. )enmark to the rank of a manufacturing country ; and some fabrics in the difle- rent kinds of cloth, brandy, sugar refining, &c., have, under its patronage, been set on foot in the large towns ; but thesij are all languishing, and with difliculty support foreign competition. The commerce of this country is in a more active state than the otht'r branches of industry ; though it is still not such as to give her a prominent place among the powers of Europe. The basis consists in the exjiortation of its raw produce. The £;rain e.xport.'iid from Jutland, consisting of wheat, rye, barlpy, and oats, and of butter and cheese, amounts to near 4,'" 00 dollars. Ilolstein and Sleswick, called the duchies, < ^ 'of the same productions as Jutland. Denmark, froiii i be- tween the northern and middle states, has a co a»ry- ing trade of the bulky artickis produced by the i . . md has also a good deol of ship-building. JJoth tlie whale and herring- Asherics are likewise carried on to some extent. The government of this country is an unlimited monarchy, the nation itself having rendered the crown absolute in 1000, for the purpose of putting an end to the influence of the nobility. The sway of the Danish princes has, however, been exceedingly mild and popular, and tlicir despotic power exerted in a manner beneficial to the people, so that there is in reality much practical freedom in Denmark. The nobles are few in number, consisting only of one duke, nineteen counts, and twelve barons. The king himself presides at the supreme national tribunal. The Danish monarch is a member of the Germanic confederacy, as .sovereign of Ilolstein and Lauenburg. Tiic military and naval establishments are on a scale suited to a greater country than what remains of Denmark. The army is kept up to nearly 40,000 regular troops, and 60,000 militia. The navy consists of six ships of the line, .six frigates, and four corvettes, besides a number of gun-boats. The sailors being all registered, no difficulty is ever found in manning the navy. The Danes are generally quiet, tranquil, and industrious. The inhabitants of the towns, who are chiefly engaged in trade, have a great share of the patient, thrifly, and persevering habits of the Dutch. The peasantry, poor and oppressed, are beginnijig, however, to raise their heads ; and the nobles, no longer addicted to those rude and daring pursuits which rendered them once so formidable, liv« much in the style of opulent proprietors in other European countries. The Lutheran religion was early and zealously adopted in Denmark, to the extent, indeed, of granting toleration to no other; but the liberal principles now ditiused throughout Europe, have made their way fully into that country. The government m IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V A ^ f/. 1.0 I.I lti|28 |2.5 ■^ 1^ 12.2 lU u 140 1^ |1.25 , u ^ ^ 6' - ► Hiotographic Sciences Corporalion 23 WIST MAIN STRilT WiBSTIR,N.Y. MSM (71«)t73-4S03 ^<^> ^^^K^ ^ % I'M' •H;' r ,■ ■ ' ;. 1 'i\ 111 . tr ill .^r iiM.il li' i ■I i \B ii i »: '(Mi (I ■I ;(■ if III i;'i 1 1 if! 380 EUROPE. has bestowed a laudable attention on the general education of its people, and has even passed a law, requiring every child, of a certain age, to be sent to school. The schools, on the plan of mutual instruction, amount to upwards of 2500, and more are in progress ; there are also more than 3000 grammar and parish schools. Copenhagen, the metropolis of the Danish dominions, is situ- ated on a low and marshy promontory, on the east side of the island of Zealand. The circumference of the city is about five miles ; it is regularly fortified towards the land and sea. Many of the streets are intersected by canals, by which a considerable commerce is carried on. The town is divided into three parts,- viz. the Old and the New town, and Christianshaven. There is a beautiful octagon, called Frederic's Place, in the New town, ornamented with an equestrian statue of Frederic V., in bronze. The arsenal, the exchange, and the barracks, are handsome edi- fices. The royal observatory is about 130 feet high, and 70 in diameter, and has a spiral road of brick, afifording an easy ascent for carriages to the top. This city owes much of its present regularity and beauty to the disastrous fires, by which it has so often been partially destroyed. The buildings are mostly of brick covered with stucco, or of Norwegian marble. There are here three extensive libraries, namely, the royal library, containing above 260,000 volumes, the university library, containing 100,000 volumes, and the Clasen library. Population, 115,000. Sleswick, the capital of the duchy of that name, is a long, irregular, but handsome town, with 15,000 inhabitants. Its cathedral, with numerous monuments of ancient dukes, is viewed with interest. Altona, on the Elbe, about two miles from Ham- burg, is a place of considerable trade, and extensive manufactures. Population, 25,000. Elsinore, or Elsineur, at the narrowest part of the Sound, is protected by the strong fortress of Cronenberg, and contains about 30 commercial houses. It has an excellent roadstead, in which ships anchor almost close to the town. At this place the tolls of the Sound are collected. Population, 7000. Kiel, the capital of Holstein, is a fortified town on a bay of the Baltic, and is the seat of a celebrated university. Population, 7500. Gluckstadt, near the mouth of the Elbe, has some trade, and is engaged in the Greenland fishery. Population, 5200. Flensburg, in the duchy of Sleswick, has a good harbour, and is a place of some commerce. Population, 15,000. ^11';. l*(!i hi )!' Iceland. — Iceland forms a portion of the foreign possessions of Denmark. It is situated in the Northern Ocean, on the bor- mm ICELAND. 281 :ation of its child, of a ;he plan of d more are • and parish ons, is situ- side of the is ahout five sea. Many considerable > three parts^ a. There is ; New town, '., in bronze, andsome edi- rh, and 70 in n easy ascent )f its present lich it has so lostly of brick here are here :y, containing ining 100,000 ,000. le, is a long, abitants. Its les, is viewed from Ham- manufactures. the Sound, is and contains roadstead, in this place the ). on a bay of . Population, as some trade, ulation, 5200. arbour, and is nti possessions n, on the bor- ders of the Arctic circle, and at the farthest verge of the civilized world. It is a large island, 230 miles in length and 220 in breadth ; containing about 40,000 square miles, with 51,000 in- habitants. This island belongs, by its situation, to the polar world ; and the mountain chains with which it is everywhere intersected, give it a still more severe and stern character. Hecla, with its flaming volcano, is the most celebrated of its mountains ; but its eruptions, of which six have occurred in the course of a century, are at present suspended. There are seve- ral other volcanoes, which, in the course of the last hundred years, have emitted twenty eruptions. The Geysers are among the most striking phenomena of this island. They consist of fountains which throw up boiling water, spray and vapour, to the height of 90 or 100 feet, at intervals of about six hours. These emissions are preceded by loud re- ports, or a low rumbling noise, resembling that of artillery. The Sulphur Mountains, with their caldrons of boiling mud, present another remarkable phenomenon. These consist chiefly of clay, covered with a crust which is hot to the touch, and of sulphur, from almost every part of which, gas and steam are perpetually escaping. Barley is the only grain that can be raised, and this only in patches ; cabbages, and a few other imported vegetables, may be produced, but by no means in perfection. The dependence of the inhabitants is chiefly upon the abundance of fish which the surrounding seas afford ; so that the interior, comprising about half of the island, is a desert of the most dreary character. Iceland was discovered about the year 840, and was settled by emigrants from Norway. It soon became an independent republic ; and the arts and literature, driven before the tide of ■ barbarism, which then overwhelmed the rest of Europe, took* refuge in this remote and frozen clime. Iceland had its divines, its historians, its poets, and was for some time the most enlight- ened country then perhaps existing in the world. Subjected first to Norway, in 1261, and afterwards to Denmark, it lost the spi- rit and energy of its days of freedom. The inhabitants are Lutherans, and remarkable for their strict morals. They are mostly well educated : all read and write, and some, even of the poorer classes, speak Latin with fluency and elegance. There are few or no schools. The education is almost entirely domestic. Reikiavig, the chief town of Iceland, has only 500 inhabitants, but contains a lyceum, a library of 5000 or 6000 volumes, several learned societies, and a printing establishment. Skalholt, Bessestadt, and the other villages, are very small. 24* 282 EUROPE. Faroe Islands. — These islands compose a group in the At- lantic Ocean, between Norway and Iceland. The principal are Stromoe, Osteroe, Suderoe, and Sandoe ; they belong to Den- mark, and have a population of 6800. Their only wealth is produced by the rearing of sheep, fishing, and catching the numerous birds which cluster round the rocks. With the sur- plus of these articles they supply their deficiency of grain. Thorsharn, on Stromoe, is the only place that can be called a town. THE NETHERLANDS. The late kingdom of the Netherlands, comprising Holland and Belgium, was formed in 1814, and abolished in 1830 by a revolt of the people of the latter state, and the erection of their country into a separate kingdom. The territories of these states, situated almost in the centre between Northern and Southern Europe, possess great natural advantages for industry and c . merce, and have, from a very early period of modern history, ranked as one of the most pros- perous and flourishing regions of this quarter. HOLLAND. Holland is bounded on the north and west by the North Sea, south by Belgium, and east by Germany. It contains an area of 11,000 square miles, and a population of 2,800,000. It is the most level country in Europe, and much of its surface is below the level of the sea, which is prevented from overflowing the land by extensive dikes or embankments, which still require incessant labour to maintain them. The Rhine and the Maese are the principal rivers ; the first, rising in Switzerland, enters this country from the south-east and flows through it to the sea by several mouths. The Maeso or Mease rises in France and flows north-easterly through Bel- gium into Holland, where it turns to the west and unites with the mouths of the Rhine. The Zuyder Zee is a large inland bay, in the northern part, 60 miles in extent. The Sea of Haarlem is a lake, 14 miles in length, to the west of the Zuyder Zee, and com- municating with it by the river Y, which passes by Amsterdam. Canals are as numerous in Holland as roads in other countries, and the ground is so level that they scarcely need a lock in their construction. Some of them are as old as the 10th century. HOLLAND. 283 p in the At- rincipal are ng to Den- ly wealth 18 matching the ith the sur- ly of grain, be called a ; Holland and JO by a revolt their country in the centre great natural ,, from a very the most pros- the North Sea, ntains an area B00,000. It is f its surface is om overflowing ich still require ivers ; the first, the south-east s. The Maeso y through Bel- unites with the e inland bay, in of Haarlem is a ir Zee, and com- by Amsterdam, other countries, id a lock in their je lOlh century. The most noted is the Great Dutch Canal, 50 miles in length from Amsterdam to the Holder. The width is sufficient to allow two frigates to pass each other. This canal was begun in 181fc< and completed in 1825, at a cost of about 4,400,000 dollars. It is highly convenient for vessels sailing from Amsterdam, which otherwise are liable to be detained by head winds for several weeks. The Dutch, by unwearied industry, have conquered every dis- advantage of climate, soil and territory. The humidity and cold- ness of the air are unfavourable to the culture of corn ; yet the labours of the patient inhabitants have converted their boggy and sterile territory into one of the richest spots in Europe. The grain raised is sufficient for home consumption, but the products of the dairy are abundant. By draining the bogs and marshes, excellent meadows are created, upon which cattle fatten to a vast size ; the utmost attention is paid to their warmth and cleanliness, and even in the summer these animals appear in the meadows clothed with apparently ludicrous care to keep off the flies. Wheat, rye, barley, oats, peas, beans, and buckwheat, are raised for internal consumption : and madder, rape-seed, hops, tobacco, clover-seed, mustard-seed, flax, hemp, and poppy oil, for consumption and exportation. The gardens and orchards are kept in very neat order. Holland became at an early period a maritime power, and established settlements in various parts of the globe. The manu- facturing industry of the country was one great support of its commerce, and the linens, silks, and woollens of Holland, were spread over all Europe. The political revolutions of modern times have been ruinous to the Dutch commerce, yet the trade is still considerable. Much of the commerce is carried on by native vessels. Vast floats of timber are received by the Rhine from Switzerland and Germany. ^ The herring fishery has been prosecuted on a large scale by the Dutch, ever since the twelfth century. The art of curing and barrelling these fish was discovered here in 1316. In the middle of the eighteenth century, the business employed 100,000 fishermen. At present there are in Holland and Belgium 20,000 families and 200 vessels in occupation. The whale fishery is also prosecuted. The manufactures of Holland have been greatly checked by the rivalship of the English. Before the French revolution, there was scarcely a manufacture in which the Dutch were not engaged. The manufactures are still considerable, and consist of woollen, silk, cotton, tobacco, snuff", pipes, leather, &c. The distillation of gin is largely carried on. -The value of the whole manufnc- 'jgf^lfljtiiWiiar'-'Ti : . -'I /. 'Hi . If I'r ' '1^ 43: life ^li.'-l ;wl Wf''''S'^W. i'i mm&- ^Bw^mj nPf ' I;): K^'|;:'/N M;wf|K * HP' ■ ' T ■ pS': li*fV t^' • ■ 1 if '-'i' ''; c V'--'"^ ,'.' ■ i ' * f W. ' ■',' ' f^ •'■'■.;■:.■' ; . ':':f ■ -.,%\ :'. ■?! rl- M:' K.'-' v,'';' P"' .i'. mil'' iSii; ' If I-':. H '!ill!|'; .i''i|;!!. ii ^1;: if ii i III !:' •iij!!!: 284 EUROPE. tures of Holland and Belgium some years ago, was estimated at about 135,000,000 dollars. The amount appertaining to each at present, cannot be ascertained. The general method of travelling in Flolland, is by the canal or drag-boat; this is generally 10 feet wide, and 50 long. The expense does not exceed three cents a mile, and the rate of tra- veiling is three miles an hour, which is so invariably the result, that distances are reckoned by hours, and not by miles. When frozen, the canals are travelled over by sleighs and skates. All persons skate ; the peasant girl skates to market, with her mer- chandise on her head, the senator to his assembly, and the cler- gyman to his church. The Dutch are distinguished for frugality, neatness, and indus- try. They are grave, quiet, and domestic, and enjoy much happiness in their family circles. Generally they prefer gain to ambition, but in their dealings they are strictly honest. The very soil they till is a monument of their perseverance and indus- try. They live in a country of meadows, reclaimed from the sea, and the acquisition is maintained only by continual vigi- lance, toil, and expense. The prevailing religion of Holland is Presbyterian, while that of Belgium is almost exclusively Catholic ; a difference which contributed not a little to that rooted dislike entertained by the inhabitants of the latter to those of the former. The Dutch have the honour of being the first people who established a system of unrestrained toleration. The government allows salaries, of a greater or less amount, to the clergy of every persuasion, only making those of the Presbyterian ministers rather higher than the others. There are, besides, Lutherans, Baptists, Jews, Qua- kers, Arminians, and Catholics. In naval affhirs, Holland, no longer the maritime rival but the close ally of Britain, made only faint attempts to raise her navy from the low state to which it was reduced by the disasters of the revolutionary war. It consists, at present, of 8 ships of the line, 18 frigates, 37 corvettes and brigs, 4 steam vessels, and about 80 armed barks of 5 guns each : the latter are intended for the defence of the interior waters. The foreign possessions of Holland are in Oceanica, Java, and the Molucca Islands, with settlements in Sumatra, Celebes, and Borneo, and some factories on the coast of Malabar and Coro- mandel ; in Africa, El Mina and some other factories on the Gold Coast ; in America, Surinam, Cura9oa, St. Eustatia, &c. The inhabitants of the whole of these territories are estimated to amount to 6,600,000, making the whole of the subjects of the Dutch monarchy 9,400,000. Both the navy and the colonial HOLLAND. 285 jtimated at ,g to each r the canal long. The rate of tra- f the result, les. When jkates. All ith her mer- \nd the cler- is, and indus- enjoy much jrefer gain to lonest. The ce and indus- ned from the ontinual vigi- [an, while that Ference which jrtained by the 'he Dutch have 2d a system of i salaries, of a jrsuasion, only 3r higher than its, Jews, Qua- ne rival but the raise her navy the disasters of f 8 ships of the jm vessels, and are intended for anica, Java, and ra, Celebes, and labar and Coro- jries on the Gold jtatia, &c. The are estimated to ; subjects of the and the colonial possessions, in the separation of the two kingdoms, remain with Holland. The government is a constitutional hereditary monarchy. The legislative power is vested in the king and the states general, a body consisting of two chambers, which meet annually. The constitution provides for the security of persons and property, for trials within three days, and for the liberty of the press, under the responsibility of him who writes, prints, or distributes. Reli- gious toleration is secured, and judges cannot be removed by the executive. Holland is divided into ten provinces ; North Holland, South Holland, Zealand, Utrecht, Guelderland, Overyssel, Drenthe, Groningen, Friesland, and North Brabant. Amsterdam, the capital, one of the largest cities in Europe, stands on an arm of the Zuyder Zee, called the river Y. The whole city is built upon piles driven into the ground. It is in the form of a crescent, and is intersected by the river Amstel, and a great number of canals, over which there are 280 bridges of stone and wood. Many of the canals are bordered with trees, and afford pleasant views, but the stagnant water they contain infects the air. The houses and streets are kept remarkably clean. The Stadthouse is the most splendid building in Holland. It rests upon a foundation of 13,659 oaken piles, and is built of freestone, with a front of 282 feet ; its interior is adorned with marble, jasper, statues, paintings, and other costly ornaments, and the whole edifice was completed at a cost of "9,000,000 dol- lars. There is an elegant bridge over the Amstel, 600 feet in length. The churches are not remarkable for architectural beauty. Amsterdam is a place of great commerce, although much declined from its former wealth and activity. The har- bour is spacious, but only light vessels can enter. It has many establishments for literature, the arts, and charitable purposes, with various manufactures. Population, 200,000. Haarlem, on the sea or lake of that name, has many fine build- ings, and the largest church in Holland : the organ of this church is the largest in the world, having 8000 pipes, some of them 38 feet in length. This city has many manufactures, and claims the invention of printing. The inhabitants show the house of Lawrence Koster, the inventor. Population, 18,000. Utrecht, on the Rhine, is a place of great antiquity, and has a famous university. It exhibits the ruins of a fine cathedral. Popula- tion, 34,000. Rotterdam is the second commercial city in the kingdom, and by its deep canals will admit the largest vessels to the doors of ■ipHMH 386 EUROPE. [ilPr ■ ■•■-I \M ' l[!"™i' (iA '■■■■' ■'■■ Tr ffi' , ■? llf:-- :'■ tt;: it- V ^ If ''■!■■■ ■■^ ;1 . < frii fe; 1 i i!|'l| ;' m :,^ f-'ili i;: i ' ii' •If:! ifi; .1$ its warehouses. The style of Dutch architecture is more par ticularly striking in this city. The houses are high, with pro< jecting stories ; they are built of very small bricks, and have large windows. This was the birth-place of Erasmus, and on the bank of one of the canals stands his statue in bronze. Popu- lation, 63,000. The Hague is the seat of the Dutch government, although pos- sessing only the name of a villoge. The magnificence of its edifices and the general neatness of the city, strike the attention of every visiter. The streets are regular, and paved with light- coloured bricks. Population, 45,000. Leyden, four miles from the sea, stands on the ancient bed of the Rhine. It has the most magnificent church in Holland, and is famous for its university : population, 29,000. Groningen has an university and many learned institutions: population, 28,000. Nimeguen, on the Waal, has some manufactures and commerce : population, 14,000. Middleburg, on the island of Walcheren, has a large Gothic town- house ornamented with statues: population, 13,200. Breda, at the junction of the Aa and the Werck, is one of the strongest towns in Holland : it has a magnificent cathedral : population, 9000. Dort or Dordrecht, on an island formed by the Maese and the Biesbosch, has a great trade in wood brought down the Rhine: population, 17,387. Saardan, on the river Zaan, is a considerable town of wooden houses, almost all of which are painted green : it has considerable commerce and ship- building : almost every house is surrounded by water, and forms with its garden a small island. BELGIUM. Belgium, or Flanders, is a fine fertile country situated to the southward of Holland, and is in proportion to its extent the most thickly peopled kingdom in Europe. It is filled with populous cities, and covered with places remarkable in history as the scenes of great victories and defeats. Perhaps no country in the world has been the theatre of so many bloody battles and sieges as Bel- gium, and the whole art of war has been exhausted in its attack and defence. This kingdom is bounded north by Holland, east by Germany, south-west by France, and north-west by the North Sea ; com- prising an area of 13,000 square miles. The chief rivers are the Scheldt and Meuse. The Scheldt rises in France and flows north-easterly into this country, where BELGIUM. 287 more par h, with pro- 3, and have nu8, and on mze. Popu- ilthough pos- icence of its the attention 2d with light- XV miles from has the most ts university : ty and many euen, on the lation, 14,000. e Gothic town- lO. c, is one of the ;ent cathedral: and formed by 1 wood brought [), on the river ,, almost all of merce and ship- ater, and forms ry situated to the 3 extent the most 3d with populous ory as the scenes itry in the world nd sieges as Bel- isted in its attack •ast by Germany, North Sea; com- se. The Scheldt lis country, where it turns to the north and north-west, and, dividing into several channels, falls into the North Sea. The former, though not remarkable for length, is a wide and deep river. Antwerp and Ghent are situated upon it. The Mouse flows through the eastern part of the country from France to Holland. The climate of Belgium much resembles that of the south of England. In the interior the air is salubrious ; but upon the coast and about the mouths of the Scheldt, the air is moist and un- healthful. The soil, in general, is moderately fertile. The whole country is level, but somewhat less so than Holland. In the south are some hills of moderate height. The canals in Belgium are spa- cious and commodious, connecting all the great cities, though not nearly in equal number, nor uniting every village, as in Holland. The agriculture of this country has been celebrated for more than 600 years : all travellers bestow high praise upon the skill and industry of the Flemish farmers. Wheat, flax, barley, oats, madder, hops, and tobacco, are raised in great quantities. Pas- turage is abundant ; the clover and turnips support great numbers of cattle, principally cows. Three hundred years ago, the Flemings were one of the most commercial and manufacturing nations of FiUrope. Bruges, and afterwards Antwerp, were the centres of an extensive commerce, which finally passed mostly into the hands of the Dutch. The manufactures of Belgium are, however, still valuable and various; the principal are fine linen fabrics, laces, lawns, and cambrics, in which the manufactures of Mechlin, Brussels, &c. continue unrivalled. The Flemish breweries are also very extensive. The manners and customs of the Belgians are somewhat simi- lar to those of France ; though in character they bear more resem- blance to the Dutch; and have a national antipathy to them, and a preference for the French. They are no less industrious and persevering than the Dutch, and nearly as phlegmatic. The religion of this country is the Catholic, though there are some Protestants, whose ministers are, as well as those of the established church, supported by the government. The provision for education in Belgium is extensive. There are four universities, those of Ghent, Liege, Louvain, and Brus- sels, with about 1200 students; and there are more than 5000 primary schools, with almost 400,000 scholars. Brussels, the capital of Belgium, stands on both sides of the little river Senne, flowing into the Scheldt. The suburbs are extensive, and there are many neighbouring villages joined to the city by long avenues. The lower part of the town consists of narrow streets and old houses. The upper, part is modern and \ r -. . F 1, f^' i jl'i iiii reguldr, with fine buiiilings and u beautiful park laid out in large regular walks, shaded with trees and surrounded by palaces, public olfices, and elegant private houses. Public fountains are intersiKirsed throughout the city, and a large canal here leaves the river. The Hotel de Villc is remarkable for its exquisite gothic spire, which looks like the work of fairy hands. There are many fine squares and palaces, and in the Orange palace is a library of 100,000 volumes. Half a league from the city is the splendid palace of Schoonenburg. Brussels is distinguished for its manu- factures of laces, carpets, tapestry, woollen and cotton cloths, silk stockings, gold and silver lace, and earthen-ware. Popula- tion, 106,000. Ghent stands at the confluence of three rivers with the Scheldt, and is seven miles in compass, but contains within its walls many fields and unoccupied grounds. Many of its canals are bordered with quays planted with rows of trees. The houses are large, but heavy and inelegant: here is a fine Gothic cathedral, with marble floors and pillars. Ghent has manufactures of fine lace, cotton, linen, woollen, silk, paper, and leather : the trade of the city has lately increased. Population, 80,000. Antwerp, on the Scheldt, is a large and well-built city, sur- rounded by a wall with carriage roads on the top planted with rows of trees. The city is built in the form of a semicircle, and is intersected by canals. The cathedral is one of the finest gothic structures in the world, and its spire is unrivalled : it is 441 feet high. The stadthouse and exchange ars noble edifices. The harbour is deep and capacious. In the height of its pros- perity, Antwerp was one of the most flourishing and wealthy commercial cities in the world, and contained 200,000 inhabit- ants. Its commerce has greatly declined, and the city has a decayed and solitary appearance. The inhabitants carry on a few manufactures. Population, 65,000. Liege, on the Maese, is divided into three parts by the river, and has extensive suburbs. The houses are high, and many of the streets are narrow, crooked, and gloomy. The manufac- tures consist of iron, fire-arms, clock-work, nails, &c. Popula- tion, 54,000. Bruges, eight miles from the sea, stands in a fertile plain. It communicates with the sea and the towns in the interior by canals. Here are a college, an academy for painting, sculpture, and architecture, several literary societies, a public library of 6000 volumes, and a botanical garden. The manufacture of lace employs 6000 people, and there are a number of schools in which children are taught this art. The town-house is a superb GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND. 289 ut in large y palaces, intains are iiere leaves ;othic spire, 3 many fine 1 library of he splendid ar its manu- )tton cloths, •e. Popula- ; the Scheldt, 3 walls many are bordered es are large, ithedral, with 5 of fine lace, ) trade of the luilt city, sur- p planted with ;emicircle, and . of the finest irivalled: it is noble edifices. ;ht of its pros- j and wealthy )0,000 inhabit- the city has a nts carry on a ts by the river, , and many of The manufac- &c. Popula- ertile plain. It the interior by -nting, sculpture, ubUc library of manufacture of jer of schools in lOUse is a superb gothlc edifice; its steeple is furnished with chimes of bells which play a different tune every quarter of an hour. Population, 36,000. Louvain is a large and ancient town with a famous university: population, 19,000. Namur, at the confluence of the Maese and Sambre, is a well-built town ; the houses are constructed of a blue stone with red and black veins : it has a citadel on the sum* mit of a precipitous rock : population, 15,000. Luxemburg is a strongly fortified city: population, 10,000. Spa is famous for its mineral springs, situated in a valley surrounded by steop woody hills : it has also some manufactures. Gemappes and Waterloo are celebrated for the battles fought in their neighbour- hood. Ostend, a few miles west of Bruges, is one of the most important sea-ports in the country : regular packets sail from this place to England several times a week, and it has a great trade in the exportation of grain and other products : population, 1 1 ,000. GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND. The united kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland comprises the kingdoms of England, Scotland, and Ireland, with the princi- pality of Wales. It consists of the islands of Great Britain and Ireland, commonly called the British Islands. Great Britain is 610 miles long, and from 300 to 100 miles wide. Ireland is 300 miles long, and 160 wide. Both islands contain, together, an area of 121,000 square miles. * The possessions of this kingdom embrace territories in every quarter of the earth, which are so distributed over its surface, that on them the sun never sets, but in his daily progress con- stantly enlightens, in suocession, some part of these wide-spread domains. The inhabitants of the whole of the British Empire, are estimated to amount to more than 150,000,000 ; comprising, with the exception of China, the greatest number of subjec^u imder the control of any one sovereign in the world. This vast popu- lation embraces nations and tribes of every form, colour, and condition; from the most refined and intelligent, to the most savage, ignorant, and degraded of the human family. The constitution of Great Britain is an hereditary monarchy, in which the power of the sovereign is controlled by the influence of the aristocracy in the house of peers, and by that of the democracy in the house of commons. The House of Lords is composed of all the nobility of England who have attained the age of twenty-one years, and who labour under no disqualifica- tion ; of 16 representative peers from Scotland, of 28 representa- 25 k> • ;'-f» .i 5 ♦ % '. 200 EUROPE. W 'f. M\ tive peers from Ireland ; and likewise of 30 spiritual lords, viz. the two English archbishops and 24 bishops, ond one archbishop and three bishops of Ireland. In 1838 the whole number was 443. The house of commons consists of 658 memlxirs, of which 471 are English, 29 Welsh, 53 Scotch, and 1U5 Irish. The ministry is composed of the first lords of the treo8ury,the chancellor of the exchequer, the three secretaries of foreign uffuirs, of the home department, and of war, the lord chancellor, the president of the council, the treasurer of the navy, the paymaster of the forces, the commissioners of the treasury, and other per- sons of high trust. The first lord of the treasury is mostly con- sidered the premier, or prime minister. The navy is the force on which Great Britain mainly relies for maintaining her own independence, and of securing her pos- sessions in the most distant quarters of the globe ; of protecting her commerce, ond sustaining the exertions of her armies in time of war. During the most active period of the last maritime con- test, the number of seamen and marines in employment amounted to 170,000 ; and there were in commission 160 sail of the line, 150 frigates, and other vessels, to the amount altogether of more than 1000 sail. The naval force is at present near 600 sail, of which about one-third is in actual service, and manned by up- wards of 30,000 sailors and marines. The military force of the nation at the close of the French wars, amounted to 200,000 regular troops, exclusive of about 100,000 embodied militia, a large amount of local militia and volunteers, to which might also be added a number of regiments employed in the territories of the East India Company, and in its pay. Afler the peace of 1815, a rapid reduction of the mili- tary establishment was effected ; and it now amounts to about 100,000 men, a large portion of whiqh are stationed in Ireland and the colonies. The national debt of Great Britain, contracted in about 150 years, amounts to 3,700,000,000 dollars. This vast debt has been incurred by borrowing money, from time to time, to pay the expenses chiefly of the various wars in which the nation has been engaged. The debt exists in the form of stock, on which interest is paid by the government every year ; and for an indi- vidual to possess shares of this stock, is to be a creditor of the nation. There are about 300,000 holders of public stock in Great Britain. The annual interest paid on the national debt, is about 140,000,000 dollars. The annual income of the kingdom is about 250,000,000 dollars, and the expenditure nearly the same. The manufactures of Britain have raised her to a decided supe- riority over all other nations. This distinction she has attained. GREAT URITAIN AND IRELAND. :^9l , lords, yit. archbishop lumber was rs, of which rea8ury,the reign uffttirs, ancellor, the le paymaster nd other per- J mostly con- mainly relics iring her pos- of protecting armies in time maritime con- Tient amounted ail of the line, .gether of more ;ar 600 sail, of manned by up- of the French lusive of about )cal militia and )er of regiments ompany, and in ition of the mili- mounts to about ioned in Ireland ed in about 150 is vast debt has 5 to time, to pay ch the nation has • stock, on which ; and for an indi- a creditor of the )lic stock in Great anal debt, is about ,f the kingdom is B nearly the same. . to a decided supe- n she has attained. not 80 much by their extreme fineness, as by the immensity of useful and valuable products calculated for the consumption of the great body of monkind ; and, above all, in the stupendous exertions made in contriving and constructing the machinery by which they are produced. About one-fourth of the whole indus- try of the country is absorbed by the cotton manufacture, the annual amount of which is estimated at 165,000,0000 dollars. Of this, 87,000,000 dollars is paid in wages to 800,000 persons employed in its various branches. The annual value of the woollen manufactures is near 100,000,000 dollars, and the peo> pie employed number about 500,000. The value of silk goods made is reckoned at about 50,000,000 dollars. Ol the differ- cot manufactures of metals, the entire produco is upwards of 60,000,000 dollars, employing 350,000 people. The commerce of Great Britain is superior to that of any other nation, and extends to all quarters of the world. The imports amount to the value of from 210,000,000 to 220,000,000, and the exports to from 270,000,000 to 350,000,000 dollars, annu- ally. The merchant vessels, including those of the colonies, number more than 27,000, and are navigated by 180,000 men. One-sixth of the shipping belongs to the port of London, and two- thirds of the commerce is carried on at that city. From 17,000 to 19,000 vessels enter the ports of Great Britain every year. The foreign trade of this country is equalled only by an internal commerce unparalleled in activity and importance. Coal, the most valuable of all the mineral substances from which Britain derives her prosperity, exists in vast quantities in various parts of the island : the amount annually raised and con- sumed is computed at between 15,000,000 and 16,000,000 tons; giving employment, in all its branches, tu not less than 160,000 persons. Of salt, the annual produce of the various kinds is about 15,000,000 bushels, of which 10,000,000 are exported. The colonies of Great Britain are found in every quarter of the globe. The most important are the East India possessions, which comprise above 1,000,000 square miles of territory, and a population of upwards of 120,000,000. These are under the sway of a mercantile association in London, called the English East India Company, which has existed for above two centuries. The colonies belonging to the crown are — in Europe, Heligo- land, Gibraltar, Malta, Gozzo and Comino, and the Ionian Islands ; — Asia, Hindoostan, Ceylon, Pulo Pinang Island, Singapore, and the provinces in Birmah ; — Africa, Sierra Leone, the factories on the Gold Coast, Cape of Good Hope, Isle of France, Sey- chelles, St. Helena, and Ascension; — Ocmmca, Australia and V^an Diemen's Land; — America, New Britain, Canada, New *. '" ''. I • ■1. ■■; i llv^ It-^^'^- 292 EUROPE. Brunswick, Nova Scotia and Cape Breton, Newfoundland, Prince Edward's Island, the Bermudas, the Bahannas, Jamaica, and the other West India Islands ; Honduras, or the Balize Territory, and the colonies in Guiana. POPULATION AND AREA OF THE BRITISH EMPIRE AND COLONIES. Square Miles. FopulatioD. Great Britain and Ireland 121,000 25,000,000 North America 2,310,000 1,360,000 Wedt Indies and South America 180,000 845,000 Africa 170,000 300,000 East India Company's territories 1,058,000 123,000,000 Ceylon, Provinces in Chin-India, Sec 122,000 1,400,000 Oceanica 3,028,000 121,000 Total 6,989,000 152,026,000 W- ^^''•{.f ■•'^'r|i ■ 'til''' 'Mi d ■ SJi:: ENGLAND. England is the largest and most populous division of Great Britain, and embraces the southernmost part of the island. It is bounded on the north by Scotland, south by the English Chan- nel, east by the North Sea, and west by St. George's Channel, Wales, and the Irish Sea. It is 360 miles in length, and from 210 to 100 miles in breadth. Area, 51,000 square miles. Popu- lation, 13,500,000. The general aspect of England is varied and delightful, being beautifully diversified with hills, valleys, and plains. Though for the most part a level country, yet mountain ranges, of mode- rate altitude, are to be met with in various quarters. The Cheviot and Cumberland hills in the north are the most elevated. Hel- vellyn and Skiddaw, in the latter ridge, are each about 3000 feet high. There are also some detached ranges in the central and western parts of the country. Derby High Peak, and Mam Tor, are the most noted elevations in the former division. The rivers of England, though deficient in magnitude, are numerous, commodious, and valuable. The largest is the Severn, which rises in Wales: in the lower part of its course it forms a wide bay, called the Bristol Channel. It is 200 miles long, and is navigable for large vessels to some extent. The Thames rises near the Severn in the lower part of its course, and flows east into the North Sea. It is 160 miles long, and is navigable for ships to London, 60 miles. This is the most important river of Great Britain for navigation. The Mersey is a small stream flowing into the Irish Sea at Liverpool ; it is navi- gable 35 miles. The Dee rises in Wales, and flows into the Irish II !lll ENGLAND. 293 and, Prince ca, and the . Territory, D COLONIES. Population. 25,000,000 . 1,360,000 845,000 300,000 123,000,000 1,400,000 121,000 )0 152,026,000 ision of Great B island. It i3 English Chan- irge's Channel, mgth, and from e miles. Popu- lelightful, being ains. Though inges, of mode- p. The Cheviot [elevated. Hel- about 3000 feet the central and and Mam Tor, ion. magnitude, are 1st is the Severn, )urse it forms a miles long, and Lwer part of its [leO miles long, This is the most I The Mersey is Irpool ; it is navi- Iws into the Irish Sea near the mouth of the Mersey. The Trent and Ouse rise in the north, and by their junction form the Humljer. The lakes are numerous, and occur principally in the north- west portions of the kingdom, of which Windermere, the largest, only twelve miles long and one broad, has been raised to distinc- tion by the taste of the age for picturesque beauty, rather than as a geographical feature of the country. England has an atmosphere of fogs, rain, and perpetual change ; yet the climate is mild. The rigours of winter and the heats of summer are less felt than on the continent under the same paral- lel. The perpetual moisture of the air is sometimes unfavourable to the crops, but its general effect is to cover the whole island with the deepest verdure. The meadows and fields are usually green throughout the winter : and the transient snows that occa- sionally fall upon them, are insufficient to deprive them of their brilliancy. Notwithstanding the general inferiority of the soil, England is under such excellent cultivation, that the country may be con- sidered as one great garden. Farming is, in many parts, con- ducted on a great scale, by men of intelligence, enterprise, and capital ; and the science as well as practice of agriculture is car- ried on to a high degree of perfection. Wheat, barley, potatoes, hops, rye, beans, peas, &c. are the chief products. Mines form one of the most copious sources of the wealth of this country. The useful metals and minerals, those which afford the instruments of manufacture, and are subservient to the daily purposes of life, are now drawn from the earth more copiously there than in any other country. Her most valuable metals are iron, copper, and tin ; her principal minerals are coal and salt. The commerce of England is unrivalled by that of any other nation in the world. Every quarter of the globe seems tributary to the enterprise and perseverance of this great commercial peo- ple. The manufactures of this kingdom far surpass in amount and variety, those of any other nation that has ever existed ; and form the most astonishing display of the fruits of human industry and skill. The vast numbers of people employed in them, give no ade- quate idea of their immense extent, as the great perfection to which labour-saving machinery is carried in England, enables one man to do the work of 150. The cotton manufacture would have required, half a century ago, 50,000,000 men, and the power now employed in it alone in Great Britain exceeds the manufac- turing industry of all the rest of Europe collectively. The other most important branches are woollen, silk, linen, and hardware. The interior navigation of England is justly regarded as one '15 * ';:■* ■: V 204 EUROPE. if^K'' 'm ^i ■ u<. M i- ft:- I' >: i J :'i I t 1,: ■ • ML .': . , Lr S ■:Vii ' ; 5-i II I- t), ■if •';■ :!i. ■.If i ".II % m •iiife of the prime sources of her prosperity. Till the middle of last century, the making of canals did not enter into the system of English economy. In 1755 was formed the Sankey canal, a line of 12 miles, to supply Liverpool with coal. Since that time, near 200,000,000 dollars have been expended in this object. The canals, in total length, amount to more than 2600 miles. The longest extends from Liverpool on the Mersey, to Leeds on the Humber, 130 miles, aflbrding a navigation for vessels of 30 tons completely across the island. The Grand Junction Canal extends from the neighbourhood of London, to the Oxford Canal ; it is 93 miles long. The Grand Trunk is a part of the same communication ; it is 93 miles in length. The Ashby de la Zouch Canal is 40 miles long, extending from the Coventry Canal to an iron railway. The Bridgewater Canal is 40 miles in length, and extending from the Mersey, divides into two branches, one terminating at Manchester, and the other at Pennington. This, with the Trent and Mersey Canal, forms a communication of 70 miles; 16 miles of this canal are under ground among the mountains. The canals of England communicate with one another, and afford immense facilities for internal commerce. Rail-roads form another contrivance, by which the conveyance of goods is wonderfully facilitated. That between Manchester and Liverpool extends 31 miles, and is carried over 63 bridges. The entire cost was about 4,000,000 dollars ; but the intercourse has been so extensive as to afford an ample remuneration. The Cromford and High Peak railway is carried over the high moun- tainous district of Derbyshire, connecting the two canals which bear these names. Its length is 33 miles, carried over 50 bridges, and rising to a level of 992 feet above the Cromford Canal. The entire expense has not exceeded 900,000 dollars. A rail-road is now in progress from Liverpool and Birmingham to London, a distance of upwards of 200 miles. The English have long held a distinguished rank among the nations of the world, and are noted for their intelligence, activity, and integrity of character. It is but little more than a century since they began to be distinguished as a manufacturing and com- mercial people, yet they have already outstripped other European nations in mechanical ingenuity, in industry, and in mercantile enterprise. The enormous increase of capital, and the substitu- tion of machinery for human labour in most of their manufac- tures, seem likely at no distant period to produce a total change in the condition of British society. In no part of the world, perhaps, is wealth more unequally distributed than in England ; and seldom do the cottages of the ENGLAND. 295 liddle of last le system of key canal, a ice that time, object. The miles. The Leeds on the els of 30 tons leighbourhood . The Grand is 93 miles in ong, extending le Bridgewater n the Mersey, [anchester, and Mersey Canal, • this canal are a\s of England nse facilities for I the conveyance een Manchester [over 63 bridges. It the intercourse uneration. The . the high moun- wo canals which over 50 bridges, ford Canal. The A rail-road is lam to London, a rank among the elligence, activity, re than a century acturing and com- 3d other European and in mercantile , and the substitu- of their manufac- uce a total change h more unequally the cottages of the poor contrast so strongly with the man: ;' of the rich. Costly and splendid buildings are spread over va ous parts of the king- dom, and many of the parks and country-seats of the nobility and gentry display a princely magnificence. Though luxury and corruption exist to a considerable extent in certain portions of English society, yet the great mass of the people are distinguished by sound morals. Benevolence may be considered a striking feature in the national character, and in no country are there so many associations for charitable, benevolent, and religious purposes. Some of the most barbarous practices of civilized nations have been abolished by the efforts of British philanthropists. Great exertions are made by various religious associations, to spread the Christian religion and civilization among the heathen. Many million copies of the sacred scriptures have been distributed, and the circulation of religious tracts has been carried to a vast extent. Numerous missionaries have been sent to various parts of the earth, who have carried the glad tidings of redemption to many ignorant and benighted nations, who now are more or less rejoicing in the light of the gospel, and in the attendant blessings of civilization and peace. The literary institutions and learned men of this country, are highly distinguished ; and no language excels the English in all the treasures of poetry, eloquence, philosophy, and science. In the fine arts the English have been less successful than some other nations, and cannot compare with the ancient Greeks or the modern Italians. In the popular amusements there is much that is gross and barbarous: horse-racing, cock-fighting, bull- baiting, and boxing, are favourites ; hunting and other out-door sports, are generally pursued. The institutions for public education in England are extensive and splendidly endowed. The two universities of Oxford and Cambridge are not only the wealthiest, but among the most an- cient in Europe. The London University and King's College have been recently instituted. The schools of Eton, Westmin- ster, St. Paul's, Winchester, Harrow, and Rugby, are nearly on the same scale as our colleges. There are multitudes of other schools, public and private, and in them all a long-continued, systematic, and thorough course of instruction is given. Though no general system has been adopted for the instruc- tion of the great mass of the people, yet the children of the poorer classes, by means of Sunday schools and the efforts of their parents, are generally taught to read and write. Immense num- bers of volumes, consisting of the works of the best English authors, are circulated in every part of the kingdom, in the form im * : ) 296 EUROPE. %■ ' = |il!y|:'i| Kf:;:;,. li IviM f ' ' if -1 '■ ^BflS \i. J ..';]} ^ Hh^'^.^' -' »f ■;: ': Rp'l: •: ■ '1 Bfc" 'J Hrffr'i ■ ■lif: Pff.: ■ ' ' i- i ffi Jl ;, ' ■ l' i*'.!;.! pif-:' /! fl-'' .- pV^'" ^■'^ ■• f ■.' ri 1 .■,.'■ ; ' ' ''H ■ .si I'.- ■ / ti of weekly or monthly pamphlets, at a very cheap rate. Even the poorest mechanics and labourers are in the habit of spending a considerable part of their leisure in the perusal of these publi- cations. The Episcopal Protestant religion is that established by law, and the king is the head of the church. There are two arch- bishops, and twenty-five bishops. The archbishop of Canterbu ry is called the Primate of all England, and his rank is next below the royal family. The Archbishop of York is called the Primate of England. The bishops have some temporal authority, and the ecclesiastical jurisdiction extends to all questions of births, mar- riages, deaths, probate of wills, and delinquencies of the inferior clergy. The clergy of the established church are a learned and pious body, though many individuals there are in it, who have neither learning nor religion. The dissenters are numerous, and have many ministers of great learning and purity of mind. The dis- senters are chiefly Methodists, Baptists, and Quakers. The Catholics are numerous, and have several colleges and convents. England is divided into 40 counties. The small islands attached to England are neither numerous nor important. Man, 30 miles in length by 12 in breadth, com- prises a considerable extent of level territory ; but rises in the interior into high mountains, among which Snowfell, nearly 2000 feet high, stands conspicuous. Population, 40,000. Castletown, the capital, is the neatest town in the island. Douglas, however, is of superior importance, and has attracted a great number of English settlers. The Isle of Wight lies on the southern coast, and is celebrated for its striking and peculiar scenery. It is a fertile and well in- habited island. Population, 40,000. Newport is the chief town. The Scilly Isles, situated at some distance from the western extremity of Cornwall, are tenanted by 2000 inhabitants, who raise some grain, but depend chiefly upon fishing, piloting, &;c. Jersey, Guernsey, and Alderney, with Sark, form a group sometimes called the Norman Isles. The climate is mild and agreeable, and the soil generally fertile. The inhabitants amount to 50,000. Jersey is so abundant in orchards, that cider forms the chief article of exportation. St. Helier, the capital of Jersey, is a handsome town. London, the metropolis of the British Empire, is, no doubt, the wealthiest and most populous city in the world. It is situated on both sides of the river Thames, about 60 miles westward from the North Sea. It is considered to include three divisions ; the City proper in the east, Westminster in the west, and Southwark on the um. ENGLAND. 297 south side of the river. The buildings are generally of brick. The streets in some parts are wide, and few are so narrow as not to admit two carriages abreast. At the west end, they are mostly straight, and sufficiently broad for five or six carriages. Here are the residences of the nobility and the rich. In the city, or the central and oldest part, the streets are narrow and crooked, but here the great business of London is transacted. The east end is occupied by shops, victualling-houses, and people connected with commerce. Here are immense timber-yards, docks, and magazines. London contains a great number of squares : the handsomest is Grosvenor Square, an area of six acres, and containing an equestrian statue of George IL The buildings around it are the most superb in London. The largest square is that called Lin- coln's Inn Fields, which occupies a space just equal to that co- vered by the great pyramid of Egypt. The finest public walks are at the west end ; Green Park, Hyde Park, St. James's Park, and Regent's Park, are beautiful fields and gardens, ornamented with trees ; these are the resort of thousands who walk for exer- cise or pleasure. These parks are very extensive. Hyde Park contains 394 acres, and in the afternoon of Sunday is thronged oy crowds of fashionable people who pour along the promenades, like the ebbing and flowing tide. In Regent's Park is an immense edifice called the Coliseum, in which may be seen a panorama of London as viewed from the dome of St. Paul's. The gardens of the Zoological Society are also in this park. They are ele- gantly laid out, and contain an interesting collection of rare ani- mals from all parts of the world. The churches of London have the most promment and impos- ing share in its architectural splendour. St. Paul's Cathedral is the most magnificent edifice in the city, but is pent up in a nar- row area, and surrounded by shops and buildings of a mean appearance. The interior of the cathedral does not equal its noble exterior. It would be little else than an immense vault with heavy columns, were it not relieved by monumental statuary. Westminster Abbey is one of the noblest existing monuments ot Gothic architecture. It has a vast, airy, and lofty appearance, which inspires feelings of awe and veneration. The city of Westminster, a north •>eastern suburb of London, contains many splendid modern churches, almost all in the classic style. London has few public edifices, compared to its great size and wealth. Westminster Hall was one a palace : here the kings of England are crowned, and here the parliament hold their sit^k tings. It has the largest hall without pillars in Europe. St I; '■ V '■' ■.'* t 298 EUROPE. ti* ■ 'i ',; '"ill I'; ; , .,,!(( '-..i.L •'.,1 [| James's Palace is an ill-looking brick building, but contains spa- cious and splendid apartments. The Tower is a vast inclosure upon the river. It contains several streets, and is surrounded by a wall and ditch. The monument, at the foot of London bridge, is a fluted doric column, in a bad situation : it is 202 feet high, and commemorates the great tire of London. The Bank of England, in the heart of the city, is a vast and splendid pile, covering eight acres. Somerset House, in the Strand, is one of the largest and most splendid edifices in the city. There are six bridges over the Thames : of these, VVaterloo bridge is built of granite, and Southwark and Vauxhall bridges of iron. A more remarkable object is the Tunnel, a passage under the river at a point where a bridge would be detrimental to the navigation. This work was performed by sinking a per- pendicular shaft near the river, and working horizontally under the bottom of the ThaniLis. The city has 13 theatres, of which Drury Lane, Covent Gar- den, and the King's theatre or Italian opera, are among the first in Europe. It has 147 hospitals; 16 schools of medicine; as many of law ; 5 of theology ; 18 public libraries ; 300 elementary free schools; 14 prisons; 75 newspapers, 9 of which publish 51,000 papers daily, and 3 weekly papers publish 114,000 every week. 15,000 vessels are employed in the foreign and coast- ing trade; 1500 carriages a day leave the city at stated hours; 4000 wagons are employed in the country trade : the annual commerce of the city ' estimated at 650,000,000 dollars. London is the principal literary emporium of the kingdom. Almost all books of importance are there printed and published, and thence distributed over the kingdom, forming a considerable branch of commerce. The annual value sold is estimated at from 5,000,000 to 10,000,000 dollars. The population of the city is estimated at from 1,500,000 to 1,800,000. Liverpool, at the mouth of the Mersey, is an important com- mercial cit;, enjoying a vast trade by sea, and communicating with all parts of the interior by canals and raiUroads. The city stretches along the east bank of the river three miles, with a breadth of one mile. It is irregularly built, but the public build- ings are elegant. The Exchange is perhaps the most splendid structure which a mercantile community ever raised from its own resources: it cost 100,000 pounds, and is double the size of the Royal Exchange of London. The Town Hall is another noble edifice. In the west of the city are quays and docks of great extent. The largest dock will contain 100 ships afloat. The commerce of the place employs 10,000 vessels, and pays ENGLAND. 299 itains spa- It contains itch. The ric column, norates the heart of the Somerset )st splendid le, Waterloo :hall bridges il, a passage I detrimental nking a per- )ntally under Covent Gar- nong the first medicine; as )0 elementary which publish 114,000 every jrn and const- stated hours ; j: the annual dollars, the kingdom, and published, a considerable timated at from 1 of the city is mportant com- communicating ,ads. The city 3 miles, with a he public build- e most splendid ed from its own the size of the s another noble docks of great ps afloat. The jsels, and pays 18,000,000 doUara to the revenue in duties. Population, 165,000. The most important branch of the trade of Liverpool is that with the United States, of which cotton is the grand staple. Manchester, thirty-three miles from Liverpool, is the centre of the cotton manufacture of Great Britain, and is the greatest manufacturing town, in that line, in the world. Two canals, and the rail -road to Liverpool, facilitate the trade of this city with the interior and the coast. Population, 182,000. Birmingham, situated in the centre of England, is noted for its immense manufactures of arms, sheet-iron, hardware, jewelry, &c. Articles in ail the various metals are made to a vast extent, from steam-engines to buttons and pins. It is connected with London b^ a rail-road, and has 147,000 inhabitants. Leeds is the principal scat of the woollen manufactures and trade of the kingdom. Population, 123,000. In the vicinity of Leeds are Bradford, Halifax, Wakefield, and Huddersfield, towns with from 40,000 to 20,000 inhabitants, nearly all engaged in the woollen manufacture. Sheffield has been long known for the excellence of its cutlery and plated goods, which comprise an almost endless variety of articles in both branches. Population, 60,000. Bristol is an ancient city, and was, formerly, next to London in the extent of its commerce. The foreign trade is still con- siderable; and its glass, sugar, soap-houses, distilleries, brass- works, pin factories, &c., are numerous. Population, 117,000. Hull, situated on the Humber river, has the greatest inland trade of any port in the kingdom, and has long been extensively engaged in the whale fishery business. Population, 36,000. Newcastle is renowned for its collieries and coal trade : the latter employs upwards of 40,000 men, and the exports amount to 2,500,000 tons. Population, 57,000. Norwich, an ancient city, is noted for its castle and cathedral : the latter is one of the finest ecclesiastical edifices in the king- dom. Population, 61,000. Plymouth is one of the greatest naval arsenals of Britain, and is noted for its breakwater, which is a vast mole, a mile in length : it required, in its formation, 2,000,000 tons of stone, and cost more than 5,000,000 dollars. Population, 75,000. Portsmouth is the most important naval station in the king- dom. Its magazines and docks are the most perfect in the world, and its fortifications are considered impregnable. The spacious road of Spithead, at this place, is capable of sheltering 1000 ships of the line. Population, 50,000. Bath has long been famous for its medicinal waters, which at- tract hither crowds of invalids, and thousands of dissipated idlers. It occupies a fine situation upon a rising ground, and is 111' 'I '• ■ 1 300 If .. EUROPE. esteemed the handsomest city in England. It has many beauti* All promenades, and a magnificent cathedral. Being a place of mere amusement, a large part of its population is migratory. Population, 88,000. Oxford contains the most famous university in England, con- sisting of 24 colleges. These buildings, with 17 churches, and numerous other academical structures, are surrounded with groves, gardens, avenues of majestic trees, and a variety of winding streams. To these are added the incessant pealing of innume- rable bells, and the multitude and mystical variety of academic dresses ; all combining to produce the most striking effect upon a stranger. Population, 21,000. Cambridge, like Oxford, owes its celebrity to its university, which has 13 colleges. Population, 21,000. M KH', S-i lit WALES. Wales is a territory situated to the westward of England, which, though united to that kingdom by early conquest, still retains the title of a separate principality, and possesses a distinct national character. The general aspect of this country is bold, romantic, and mountainous. It consists of ranges of lofly eminences and im- pending crags, intersected by numerous and deep ravines, with extensive valleys, and affording endless views of wild mountain scenery. The chief mountains of Wales are Snowdon, 3571 feet in height, and Cader Idris 3550 : the general elevation of the others is from 1000 to 3000 feet above the sea. The rivers are the Severn, Wye, Conway, Towy, Dee, &c. The soil of Wales is less fertile and cultivated than that of England, but the produc- tions are the same. Manufactures are nearly confined to the article of flannel, which has always been a fabric of the Welsh, and in which they excel. The mineral productions of Wales are very abundant, and consist principally of lead, cppper, iron, and coal : the latter is found in almost every quarter of the country, and is employed either for domestic purposes, or in fusing or refining the metallic ores. Vast quantities of iron, chiefly for rail-roads, are imported into the United States from this region. This country, previous to the year 1283, was governed by its own kings ; but since that time it has been united to England, and the oldest son of the king of England is styled Prince of Wales. The Welsh are a Celtic race, the descendants of the i MM ■;" ■ I1:;'''"jl WALES. »01 ancient Britons, who in their mountain recesses sought refuge from the destroying sword of the Saxons, which completely dis- possessed them of the low country of England. Edward I. annexed Wales to the English crown, but was corn- pelled to erect many strong castles to hold the Wesh in subjec- tion ; and notwithstanding these curbs, they frequently broke into insurrection. For the last 300 years, however, they have been as peaceful as their English neighbours. The people of Wales have retained their native language, which is widely ditferent from the English, but similar to that of the Scotch Highlanders. They are extremely national, and though their country is not fertile, yet they are greatly attached to their native hills. They are proud of their early origin, and are fond of tracing back their pedigree to a remote period. In manners and customs they differ essentially from their immediate neigh- bours, whom they are apt to despise as a race of yesterday, and destitute of that antiquity which they value so highly. Strong ties of friendship subsist between the land-owners and their tenants ; manifested, on one side, by indulgence and pro- tecting kindness ; on the other, by a profound veneration for the representatives of the ancient chiefs of iheir race. The Welsh have many superstitions, mixed with much genuine religious feel- ing. They are hardy, active, hospitable, kind-hearted ; only a little hasty and quarrelsome. Population cibout 1,000,000. Coun- ties, 12. The isle of Anglesea, on the coast of Wales, is separated from that country by the Menai Strait, over which a bridge, formed of immense iron chains, is erected. The island is rich in minerals, especially copper and lead ; also, coal and marble. Population, 45,000. Beaumaris is the chief town. Merthyr-Tydvil, situated in the iron-mine region of Glamor- ganshire, has become, from a mere village, the most populous place in Wales : population, 22,000. Swansea has also risen to some importance, from the iron and copper works with which it is surrounded. Coal is likewise largely exported. Its pleasant situation has made it an extensive resort for sea-bathing, and led to the erection of many elegant buildings : population, 14,000. Caermarthen, situated on the Towy, which admits to it vessels of 300 tons, is one of the most flourishing and best-built towns in Wales : population, 10,000. Caernarvon is a handsome, well- built place : its chief ornament is the castle, a stately edifice built by Edward I. : population, 8000. Some other of the chief towns in Wales are, Holywell, with 9000; Mold, 8000; Pembroke, 7000 ; Cardiff, 7000 ; and Brecknock, 6000 inhabitants. 26 !— •^T" '. > ao2 KUROPE. ■■s ' ■la ";"S'il:i SCOTLAND. Scotland occupies iho northern part of the island of Great Britain, and is celebrated for the grandeur, wildness, and beouty of its scenery. It is everywhere surrounded by the ocean, except on the south-east, where it is joined to England. It is ^80 miles in length, and from 00 to 130 miles in breadth, and contains 30,000 square miles. This country comprises two great divisions, the Highlands and the Lowlands : the former comprehends nearly the whole of Scot- land lying north of the firths of Forth and Clyde. It contains within its recesses a primitive people, who in dress, manners, and language, differ essentially from the inhabitants of -the other divi- sion. The Lowlands includes the most southern and smallest, but the most productive and best peopled part of Scotland. Among the Scottish mountains, the most conside.'able are the Grampians, a name which is given very generally to all those which cover the surface of the Highlands. Several of these exceed the altitude of 4000 feet. Ben Nevis rises to the height of 4379 feet, and is the most elevated mountain in Great Britain. The rivers of Scotland are not so much distinguished for their length or magnitude, as for the pastoral scenery through which they wind their early course, and for the large firths or bays which they form at their junction with the sea. The Forth is the largest river, and forms at its mouth the great firth on which the capital of Scotland is situated. The Tay is noted for its fine salmon ; the Clyde for its splendid falls ; and the Tweed, the Spey, the Dee, and others, for the celebrity they have acquired from the writings of the various poets who have described their beau- ties. Lochs form a characteristic feature of Scotland ; many of them re long arms of the sea, running up into the heart of the moun- tains. Among these, Loch Lomond is pre-eminent. The tra- veller admires its gay and numerous islands, its wooded promon- tories and bays, and the high mountain barrier at its head. Loch Katrine, in a smaller compass, presents a* singular combination of romantic beauty. Loch Tay, enclosed by the loftiest of the Grampians, presents alpine scenery on the grandest scale ; while at Inverary, Loch Fyne unites the pomp of art with that of nature. The long chain of Lochs Linnhe, Lochy, and Ness, stretching diagonally across Scotland, comprises much fine scenery, and has afforded facilities for making a navigable com- munication between the Atlantic Ocean and the North Sea. The products of the soil in this country are generally the same as in England. Oats are the principal crop, except in the most 8CUTLAND. 303 id of Great and beauty the ocean, ;land. It is )readth, and ghlanda and hole of Scot. It contains iianners, and lie other divi- and smallest, •otland. e;able are the y to all those /eral of these , to the height Great Britain, jished for their through which firths or bays The Forth is firth on which loted for its fine weed, the Spey, acquired from ibed their beau- ; many of them artofthemoun- nent. The tra- wooded promon- itshead. Loch ar combination ,e loftiest of the dest scale; while art with that ot ,ochy, and Ness, >rises much fine a navigable com- . North Sea. enerally the same xcept in the most fertile districts, where wheat is grown of good quality. Potatoes are cultivated somewhat extensively, and in some places hemp. Both the commerce and manufactures of Scotland have grown into importance sinco the union with England. Commerce has flourished chiefly since the middle of the last century. Greenock and Aberdeen are the most important commercial places. The manufactures consist of cotton, woollen, linen, iron, hats, paper, saiUcloth, pottery, and small quantities of most of the arti* cics made in England. At Carron, in the southern part of the kingdom, are the most important iron-founderies in Great Britain. They employ 2000 workmen, and cast above 4000 cannon annu- ally. The total value of the yearly manufactures of Scotland is estimated at about 75,000,000 dollars. The whale and herring fisheries are considerable sources of wealth. The whale ships are principally employed in the north- ern seas. The number of herring taken on the coast is immense: the fishermen go in small vessels called busses. Salmon, taken in all the considerable rivers, and kept fresh by being packed in ice, chiefly supplies the London market. In the formation of canals, peculiar obstructions from the rug- gedness of the surface, have been experienced ; and hence they have never liecome very numerous. The Great Canal admits vessels of considerable size to pass from the Firth of Forth to that of Clyde, and thus unites the Northern and Atlantic Oceans. Branches to Glasgow and other places, have been advantageously opened. The Union Canal, completed at an expense of nearly 2,000,000 dollars, connects the Great Canal, near its eastern point, with Edinburgh, by a line of 30 miles through a country very rich in coal and lime. The Caledonian Canal, uniting the chain of lakes which crosses Scotland diagonally, allows even ships of war to pass from the east coast into the Atlantic. It was finished in 1822, at an expense of nearly 5,000,000 dollars, entirely de- frayed by government. The gates of the locks are of iron : the expense of each lock was about 45,000 dollars. The canal is 50 feet broad; length 22 miles, with 40 miles of lake navigation. The inhabitants of Scotland amount to 2,500,000, and are composed of two distinct races, the Highlanders and Lowlanders : the former inhabit the Highlands or northern part of the king- dom, and the Lowlanders occupy the southern division. The people of the Highlands speak a peculiar language, called the Gaelic, though the English now is pretty generally understood amongst them. The Highlanders retain the remnants of a national costume peculiar to themselves ; the tartan, a mixture of woollen and linen I ' 304 KUUOPE. I- '- ii jji ;!! I. ■M v:iM it ' ': l: " !i I, cloth, adorned with brillinnt stripes variously crossing each other, and markinff the distinctions of the clans ; the kilt, or short petti« coat, worn by the men, the stockings fnstencd below the knee, which is led bare ; and the bonnet, which in another shape is also still worn by the shepherds of the border. The divisions of Scotland arc into shires or counties, of which there are 33 : of these, 17 arc in the Lowlands, and the remain- ing 16 in the Highlands. The Scotch, as a nation, are grave, serious, and reflecting ; but at the same time enterprising and persevering. They are in general better educoted and more moral and religious in their habits, than any other people in Europe. Learning, after its revival in modern times, was cultivated in this country with pecu- liar ardour ; but it is particularly since the middle of the last cen- tury, that the writers of Scotland have become celebrated : many have distin-^uished themselves in various branches of literature, and some of them have been amongst the most illustrious philoso- phers, historians, and poets of Great Britain. The most populor fictitious and periodical writers of the present generation, have also been natives of Scotland. In religion the people of Scotland have always shown an ex- emplary attention, and they entered upon the reformation with a spirit and energy beyond most of the other Protestant nations. The established church or kirk, is Calvinistic in its doctrines and Presbyterian in its government, and is under the super! ntendence of the general assembly, a body consisting of representatives from the different presbyteries. About one-fourth of the inhabitants of Scotland are dissenters, as Episcopalians, Seceders, &c., and there are some Roman Catholics m the Highlands and large cities. Education amongst the great body of the people is more gene- ral in Scotland than in any other part of the British dominions : every parish has its respective school, in which knowledge can be obtained at a rfi sonable rate. Private schools are also nume- rous, and in all the principal towns there are academies and other high seminaries of learning. The universities of Edinburgh, Glasgow, St. Andrews, and Aberdeen, are all celebrated, par- ticularly the two first. The public libraries are not rich. That belonging to the advo- cates or barristers of Edinburgh, contains upwards of 150,000 volumes, among which there are ample materials, both printed and in manuscript, for aluudating the national history. The university library is half as large ; and those of Glasgow, King's College Aberdeen, ana St. And''3w's, r^rc highly respectable. Each of these universities can ; •aiT' a coj y of every new work. Scotland has a native, music, simp and pathetic, expressive SCUT LA NU. 305 ach othefj ihort petli- r the knee, r shape i« B, of which ihe remain- reflecting; They are in 0U8 in their ng, after its ry with pecu- ' the last cen- irated : many of literature, ;rious philoso- most popular neration, have shown an ex- rmution with a cstant nations. ,s doctrines and upeiintendence ■seiitatives from ihe inhabitants eders, &c., and and large cities, e is more gene- tish dominions : knowledge can , are also nume- emies and other of Edinburgh, celebrated, par- iffinff to the advo- fards of 150,000 lals, both pnnled \\ history, ihe [Glasgow, King s Lhly respectable, f^very new work. Ithetic, expressive i9»i of rural fcclingH and omotionH, to which sho is fondly attached. The recreations of the ' i^her ranks arc nearly the Muine is in ICngland. Dancing is practised with peculiar ardour, '"^peciuUy by tho Highlanders, wh'j have favourite national steps and "^f/ve- inrnts. J ii) islands appendant on Scotland, form one of its most con- spicuous features. Thoy may bo divided into the islands ut the mouth of tho Clyde ; the Hebrides, or Western Islands ; and thoso of Orkney and Shetland. The islands of the Clyde are chiefly Bute and Arran, with the smaller ones of the Cumbrays and Ailsa. Tho Hebrides or W-;' • '•n ^ lands lie on tho western coast of Scotland. Thi v arc nboui JiOO in number. The largest is Lewis, 87 miles ici.;r. The next in size are Skye, Mull, and Islay, South last, and Jura. Most of them are rocky and bar- ren, with ha ily a single tree, or even a bush upon them. The most westerly of tho Hnbrides is St. Kilda : it is small and rocky, yet inhabited. Its shores are tho resort of vast varieties of sea- fo\vl, which the islanders pursue at immense hazards, by swing- ing with ropes from the perpendicular clifls. There arc 87 of these islands inhabited, and several under good cultivation, producing tolerable crops of grain, pulse, and potatoes. The inhabitants are about 70,000 in number. Their only articles of trade are horned cattle, sheep, and fish. One of the smallest of these islands, named Stafl'a, is remark- able for a singular basaltic cavern, called Fingal's Cave, 227 feet in length, and 42 wide. The entrance resembles a gothic arch, and the floor of the cave is covered with water. The walls of the interior are formed of ranges of basaltic columns, irregularly grouped. This natural architecture is said to surpass, in gran- deur and magnificence, the most splendid artificial temples and palaces in the world. At the northern extremity of Scotland lie the Orkneys, about 70 in number, but less than half of them are inhabited. They are rocky, and have but little vegetation besides juniper, wild myrtle, and heath. Tho soil is bogj; v or gravelly ; some of the .siands contnin iron and lead. The sea in this neighbourhood is '<;r lempcstiious. In June and July, the twilight which con- tinues throughoiit the night is sufficiently strong to enable the inhabitants to read at midnight. The population is about 30,000. They have some manufactures of lic^n ind woollen, and a trade in cattle, fish, oil, and feathers. Vas. numbers of seafowl fre- quent 'he rocky cliffs of these islands, and one of the chief em- ploynents of the inhabitants is bird-catching. The Shetland Islands, lie about #0 miles northeast of the Ork- 26 * A^% m y^ •I'j M'^: ' ^ .: i ■ '• ' ■■'' , ,• f '■ , ',■ 306 EUROPE. m [|''' P^--: !■»:(;'(■ > M I ■: ' i P"^" 1 P' ' !■'•■■ P'^ V'"' i' p|-: ; ; :'; ■I'' m,-'".:' ' ij:.- i* !.'"'•?■;■ • ■ '." '1 ,7i ■'-?■'.,'' ■1 .1' '.*■;' 1 ^ ii$ if-'' ' : ■ • ;■ ; r^ mI' • ^r .-■ neys. They have a wild and desolate appearance ; but 17 of them are inhabited. Their vegetation is still more scanty than that of the Orkneys, and their soil, for the most part, is marshy. The shores are broken and precipitous, and excavated by the sea into natural arches and deep caverns. From October to April, perpetual rains fall, storms beat against the shores, and the in- habitants are cut off from all communication with the rest of the world ; but the aurora borealis exhibits, at this season, a bright- ness equal to that of the full moon. The population is about 28,000 ; the people live by fishing and the manufacture of coarse woollens. Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland, stands upon the southern shore of the Firth of Forth, a mile and a half from the sea. Its situation is remarkably picturesque. It occupies three high ridges of land, and is surrounded on all sides, except the north, by naked, craggy rocks. The middle ridge is the highest, and on either side is a deep ravine. The more ancient part of the city occu- pies the two southern ridges. High street runs along the middle eminence, in nearly a straight direction, for about a mile, and exhibits a very grand prospect. With the exception of the prin- cipal avenues, the other streets of what is called the Old Town are only narrow, dirty lanes, among houses some of them ten and eleven stories high. The New Town presents quite a different aspect. It is built on the northern ridge, and its streets and squares are not sur- passed in regularity and elegance in any part of the world. It communicates with the old town by a bridge, and an immense mound of earth crossing the deep lock or ravine between them. The Castle of Edinburgh is an ancient fortress on a rugged rock, mounting abruptly to the height of 200 feet. Holyrood House, for many centuries the residence of the kings of Scotland, is a quadrangular edifice in the eastern part of the city. In the cen- tre of Edinburgh is a vast pile, comprising several edifices around Parliament Square, which contain a number of large libraries. The university is celebrated both as an institution for teaching, and a nursery for eminent men ; the number of students is up- wards of 2000. Edinburgh has its Royal Society for physical and literary researches, its antiquarian and horticultural socie- ties, an institution for the promotion of the fine arts, and an academy of painting. This city is chiefly supported by its courts of justice, whose jurisdiction extends over all Scotland. A great proportion of the inhabitants are lawyers, and the literary talent for which the city is renowned, has gained it the appellation of the Modern Athens. Population, in 1831, 136,000. Leith is the sea-port of Edinburgh ; it was formerly about two IRELAND. 307 miles distant from that city, but is now connected with it by con- tinuous ranges of buildings. The harbour has been much im- proved by art, but is not accessible to large ships, except at cer- tain times. The commerce carried on here is considerable. Population, 26,000. Glasgow is the largest city in Scotland, and owes its prosperity chiefly to its manufactures. It stands upon the Clyde, and con- tains a large number of handsome buildings, mostly of modern construction. The streets are generally spacious and well paved. The cathedral is a massy building, and the most entire specimen of Gothic architecture which the furious zeal of the reformers left standing in Scotland. In Glasgow and the neighbourhood are 32,000 cotton looms and 300 steam machines in manufacto- ries, founderies, &c. The general aspect of the town is rendered gloomy by the coal-smoke, which has blackened the buildings, and hangs in dingy clouds over the city. Population, 202,000. Paisley, seven miles from Glasgow, is the third town for size and commerce. It has extensive manufactures, and a population of 57,000. Greenock, at the mouth of the Clyde, is the out-port of Glasgow ; and its prosperity, as well as that of Glasgow, is of very recent date. Its harbour is commodious, and its trade extends to every part of the world. Population, 28,000. Aberdeen is a handsome city on the eastern coast, with a uni- versity, and considerable commerce and manufactures : popula- tion, 58,000. Perth, on the Tay, is the most regularly built of all the cities of Scotland, and is surrounded with beautiful scenery : population, 20,000. Inverness, the capital of the North High- lands, is well built, and enjoys nearly all the trade of the northern part of the kingdom: population, 15,000. ii4 -'-M •ii IRELAND. Ireland is a fine fertile island, lying west of Great Britain, from which it is separated by St. George's Channel and the Irish Sea. The climate is mild and moist, which produces a beautiful and continued verdure, and has led to its being called by the poetical appellations of the Emerald Isle and Green Erin. The surface of the country, though in general level, is diver- sified with numerous hills and mountains ; these do not, however, form ranges of any great extent, but lie chiefly in short detached ridges: those in the vicinity of the celebrated Lake of Killarney, are the best known, and the most elevated. Ghurane Tuel, the highest, rises to the height of 3400 feet above the sea. The Shannon is without a rival among rivers in the three king- ' liri ■ ' 1 -lis m ii ■;" . V ''.'■. Ilj ^' '>■ 308 EUROPE. IK. W- MP; ^^r lit: f'V ''if '3 ■'■''k rl-■ ' i.i' ' ill' ;■'• mm ipm 9\'i^'V ■>'ii im ::i,!.::(»l doms. It rises far in the north, from Lough Allen, in the pro- vince of Connaught, and has a course of 200 miles, throughout the whole of which it is more or less navigable. There are also the Barrow, Boyne, Foyle, Bann, Blackwater, &c. The other rivers are rather numerous than of long course ; but they almost all terminate in wide estuaries and lorjghs, which diifuse through Ireland the means of water communication, and afford a multi- plicity of spacious and secure harbours. Lakes or loughs are a conspicuous feature in Ireland, where this last name, like the similar one used in Scotland, is in many instances applied to arms of the sea. Lough Neagh is the largest lake in the United Kingdom, covering nearly 100,000 acres. Lough Erne, Lough Corrib, &c. include a great variety of rich and ornamented scenery. Lough Foyle, Lough Swilly, and Belfast Lough, are properly bays. Connaught has several exten- sive lakes. That of Killarney, in the south, is famed, not for its extent, but for the singular grandeur and beauty of its shores. Ireland was once covered with forests, which are now replaced by immense bogs. These form a remarkable feature, character- istic of the country. They afford abundant supplies of peat, used by the inhabitants for fuel. From their depths are also taken quantities of wood in complete preservation, which indicate that these bogs are the remains of the ancient forests. The skins of animals and men that have been swallowed up in them, have been found converted into a sort of leather by the tanning mat- ter which the moisture contains. Coal is the most abundant mineral. It is found in Kilkenny, in the south. Marble and slate occur in the same quarter. Iron was formerly produced in many parts, but at present few or no mines are worked. Copper, silver, and gold, have also been found in small quantities. The greatest curiosity in Ireland is the Giants' Causeway. It is an astonishing work of nature, and is situated on the north- east coast of the island. It consists of millions of perpendicular columns of stone, rising from 200 to 400 feet above the water's edge. The columns are generally five and seven-sided, and arc divided into lengths of about 18 inches, yet set upright, one upon another, and so nicely fitted together, that a knife-blade can scarcely be inserted at the joints. At Fairhead, on the same coast, there are ranges of basaltic columns, not articulated like those of the Giants' Causeway, but reaching the enormous height of 100 and 1.50 feet in single blocks. In the neighbourhood there are some remarkable caverns. Agriculture is very backward in this country. The farmers are generally not proprietors of the soil, and studiously avoid j|i);;l' rf ?' IRELAND. 309 the pro- iroughout B are also rhe other ey almost ;e through •d a multi- md, where is in many the largest 000 acres. lety of rich 5willy, and veral exten- i, not for its its shores, low replaced e, character- of peat, used e also taken indicate that The skins of n them, have tanning mat- in Kilkenny, uarter. Iron ent few or no ive also been Uauseway. It on the north- perpendicular »ve the water's sided, and arc right, one upon nife-blade can , on the same articulated like normous height ibourhood there The farmers ;tudiously avoid any permanent improvement of the land, lest the rent should be raised. Wheat is not generally cultivated, and what is raised is often inferior. Barley is now common, but oats are raised in a tenfold proportion to that of any other grain. The Irish staff of life, however, is potatoes. This root furnishes to the poor the greatest part of their sustenance. The dairy is the best-managed part of Irish husbandry. Flax is extensively cultivated. The most important manufacture is that of linen, which has flourished for 300 years, but is now on. the decline. The cotton manufacture has been recently introduced, and is increasing. The distilleries of Ireland are extensive, and a considerable quan- tity of whiskey is made and exported. The commerce of this country consists chiefly in the exports of the agricultural products to other parts of the British Empire. To England alone, they amounted, in 1831, to the value of 50,000,000 dollars, compris- ing grain of various kinds ; cattle, beef, pork, butter, &c., besides linen. The trade to foreign countries is, however, greatly infe- rior. Ireland is still denominated a distinct kingdom, but it is governed by a viceroy appointed by the sovereign, called the Lord Lieu- tenant of Ireland. There is also an Irish chancellor, a secretary of state, commander of the forces, and an attorney-general. The island was incorporated with the kingdom of Great Britain, in 1800. There is now no separate parliament, but Ireland is represented by 32 peers and 100 members of the House of Com- mons, in the parliament of Great Britain. The citizens of Ire- land are entitled to the same privileges with those of England, in all matters of commerce and provisions under treaties. There is one university in Ireland, styled Trinity College or Dublin University : it has about 400 students, and is an institu- tion of a very high character. At Maynooth and Carlow there are Roman Catholic Colleges, and a Jesuits' College at Clongows. The education of the people has been much neglected until re- cently : great efforts have been lately made by private benevo- lence to extend the means of instruction to the poor, though with but partial success. The arts are not in a flourishing state in Ireland, principally from the want of the encouragement that the residence of the rich proprietors would give. The useful arts are far lower than in England or Scotland, and the ornamental ones are little culti- vated. A taste for music is common, and no man is more wel- come in an Irish house than a piper or a harper. Many of the old national airs are sweet, but they are not so widely spread as those of Scotland. Ireland has contributed her full share to the literature and sci- ■ ■'' , y •& I '■■ y Urn. %■■ ;■» r ij..': MX' I'- 1 4 mm II ■•■^v am EUROPE. li- ,!• ' !■■ , 1 m 1 'J* ' <<. :.H- ^.i '1 .'"(■■■;' n§ lill ences of the United Kingdom, and there are no names more ccle- brated than those of Burke, Swifl, Goldsmith, Sheridan, and Moore. The great national bent of genius seems to be towards wit and eloquence, and this appears not only in the distinguished men, but in the mass of the people ; for the very beggars pursue their vocation with a union of these two qualities that is often irresistible. The general religion is the Catholic, though the established church is that of England. Four-fifths of the inhabitants are Catholics, and the other fifth is composed principally of Episco- palians, Presbyterians, Methodists, and Baptists. The established church has four archbishops, and 22 bishoprics. There are 33 Catholic archbishops and bishops, 1500 parish priests, 3000 curates, and 984 benefices, averaging moro than 6000 souls each. In every parish there is a chapel. The established church is chiefly supported by the payment of a composition for tithes, and the Catholic church by contributions, and fees for marriages, burials, masses, &c. The numbers of the different religious denominations are as follows : — Roman Catholics, 6,450,000 ; members of established Church, 870,000 ; Presbyterians, &c. 680,000. In the eastern part of the island the people are chiefly of Eng- lish, and in the north of Scottish descent, but speak the English language, and are mostly Protestants ; but in the north and west the original Celtic race predominates. The latter use the Irish language, which approaches very nearly to that of the Scottish Highlanders, and in many districts they are wholly ignorant of the English. The native Irish are chiefly Catholics, and the Anglo-Irish Protestants. The population is about 8,000,000. The Irish people are generous, quick-witted, hospitable, and cheerful ; they are, however, easily offended, and prone to resent- ment. Duels are not rare among the gentry, nor less dangerous appeals to force unfrequent among the lower classes. The great mass of the latter live in a state of abject poverty and wretched- ness : they are degraded by the oppression of the great landlords and their agents. The payment of church tithes and a multitude of taxes, swallows up their earnings and discourages the spirit of industry. Beggars are numerous, and notwithstanding the natural fertility of Ireland, many of the poor have perished with hunger. Ireland is divided into four provinces, Ulster, Leinster, Mun- ster, and Connaught. These are subdivided into 32 counties. Dublin, the capital of Ireland, disputes with Edinburgh and Bath the reputation of being the most beautiful city in the empire. It is delightfully situated at the bottom of a bay on the eastern FRANCE. 311 note cole- idan, and e towards tinguished irs pursue it is often established bitants are of Episco- established lere are 33 iests, 3000 I souls each. ;d church is »r tithes, and f marriages, itions are as jf established tiieflyofEng- k the English prth and west use the Irish r the Scottish ly ignorant of olics, and the 8,000,000. ospitable, and rone to resent- less dangerous es. The great and wretched- •rreat l-.ndlords 'nd a multitude ages the spirit thstanding the e perished with Leinster, Mun- 32 counties. Edinburgh and y in the empire. on the eastern coast, about a mile from the shore, and is divided by the little river Liffey into two equal parts. The city is nearly square, being about two anti a half miles in extent each way. The houses are generally of brick, and the streets irregular ; but those that run parallel with the river, are for the most part uniform and spacious. In the more modern part, they are from 60 to 90 feet wide. There are several fine squares, one of which, called Stephen's Gr< en, occupies 27 acres, and has a magnificent ap- pearance. Sackville street is one of the finest in Europe. No city, in proportion to its size, has a greater number of elegant buildings. This city has a considerable trade by sea, and the canals which extend from this point to different parts of the island. Few places exhibit a greater contrast between wealth and poverty than Dublin. The chief part of the suburbs, and some streets in the city, are the abodes of thousands, who live in the most ab- ject poverty and wretchedness. Population, 227,000. Cork, the great southern emporium of Ireland, has a popula- tion of 107,000, being, in point of weaUh and magnitude, the second city in the island. It has a good harbour, and a flourish- ing trade in the export of salt provisions. The greater part of the city is built upon an island. The public buildings are simple in their architecture, but large and convenient. Limerick, upon the Shannon, has some manufactures, and a large export trade : population, 60,000. Londonderry, on the north-west coast, is an ancient place, with a fine gothic cathedral : it carries on some commerce with America and the West Indies : population, 10,000. Belfast is the grand emporium of the north of Ireland, and commerce is the main source- of its wealth. The linen fabric of the north, together with oats, oatmeal, and provi- sions, are the principal exports. Population, 53,000. FRANCE. France is a great and powerful kingdom, placed, as it were, in the centre of the civilized world, and for several centuries dis- tinguished by the conspicuous part which it has acted in the affairs of Europe. Its population, military power, vast resources, and active industry, render it one of the most important and interestinff countries on the globe. France is bounded north by the English Channel and Belgium; oast by Germr.ay, Switzerland, and Italy ; south by the Mediter- i i-- ii ■ F'h'n I', ■: > 312 EUROPE. m w '"i ^Mr :| ii 'W. ^s: 'ii! ranean Sea and Spain ; and west by the Atlantic Ocean. Its greatest length from north to south is 590 miles, and its breadth is about the same. It contains !205,U0U square miles. The surface of this very extensive territory is in general level, although it borders and is encroached upon by the greatest moun- tain ranges of Europe. The Alps cover the full half of its east- ern frontier. The Pyrenees range along the southern border. On the east, where France reaches tp the Rhine, are the Vosges; and in the centre and south, the chain of Auvergne and the Ce- vennes : these last are, however, of moderate height. But by far the greater part of France, including the whole north and east, is one widely extended plain, which yields in high perfection all the fruits and products of the temperate zone. The rivers of France, though not of the first magnitude, are extensive and commodious. Traversing almost every part of the kingdom, they afford ample means of internal navigation ; and the broad plains which border on them yield the most luxuriant harvests. The Loire is the principal. The other great rivers are the Rhone, Garonne, Seine, and the Rhine ; those of second- ary rank are the Somme, Adour, Var, Moselle, Isere, Marne, Mouse, &c. France, with regard to internal economy, is one of the richest and most flourishing countries in the world. In point of industry she r9.nks third afler Britain and the Netherlands ; while she possesses a greater extent and more natural advantages than either of those great seats of commerce and manufacture. This country yields in abundance the most solid and useful of all metals, iron. There are about 400 forges in the kingdom, pro- ducing upwards of 160,000 tons of metal, valued at 15,000,000 dollars. Coal is abundant, but the beds lie at a distance from the sea, and are little worked. There were formerly many cop- per-mines, but they are now chiefly abandoned. Lead and man- ganese abound in quantities. Silver, cobalt, nickel, cinnabar, and arsenic, are sometimes found. Agriculture is the most flourishing branch of French industry, yet it is not in so advanced a state as in Great Britain. The vine occupies the chief attention of the French husbandman. The vineyards of France yield 250 different sorts of wine ; they occu- py 5,000,000 acres, and their average produce is estimated at 900,000,000 gallons. Wheat, rye, and potatoes are raised in the north ; oli^ es in the south ; and Indian-corn and tobacco in various quarters. Beets are cultivated for making sugar, and many million pounds are produced annually. The rent of land is very low, and the farms are generally small. A large portion of the population of this country are proprietors of the soil. 11:1 FRANCE. 313 lean. Its is breadth eral level, test moiin- )f its east- trn border. ^eVosges; ind the Ce- But by far h and east, ;rfection all gnitude, are y part of the gation; and (st luxuriant great rivers se of second- sere, Marne, Df the richest it of industry 3; while she antages than acture. and useful of cingdom, pro- it 15,000,000 distance from y many cop- ead and man- eel, cinnabar, ench industry, ain. The vine ndman. The ne ; they occu- s estimated at are raised in and tobacco in ing sugar, and le rent of land i\. large portion ,f the soil. Though the commerce of France is much inferior to that of Great Britain, yet it is still very considerable. The annual value of the imports is upwards of 125,000,000 dollars, and the exports are rather more than that amount. The first consists of raw ma- terials for manufactures, and of articles of food ; and the exports of manufactured goods of various kinds, wine, brandy, oil, &:c. The interior commerce must be very extensive, though it is diiticult to estimate its amount, as, notwithstanding considerable advantages for navigation, the bulk of it is carried on by land. The old medium of lairs has been preserved, and it is calculated that upwards of 26,000 are held in France every year : these attract vast crowds of people, and an immense amount of articles of various kinds are sold at them. The products of French industry are very numerous, and are distinguished for beauty and excellent workmanship. The manu- factures have multiplied greatly within the last 30 years, and comprise cotton and woollen goods of every variety ; porcelain, clocks and watches ; cashmere shawls, damasks and silks of fine fabric and great beauty ; gloves, &c. The military force of France, though no longer that immense mass of which it consisted before and during the time of Napo- leon, is still a formidable body : under the peace establishment it amounts to upwards of 400,000 men, besides the national guards or militia. The navy comprises 49 ships of the line, 60 frigates, 37 steam-ships, and about 140 smaller vessels: it is in a high state of efRciency, and is rapidly increasing. Though no country presents greater opportunities for proso* cuting the study of all departments of learning than France, yet but imperfect provision has been made for the instruction of the mass of the people ; not more than one-third of the departments are provided with elementary schools, and not morp than one- half of the inhabitants can read and write. The number of ele- mentary schools is about 47,000, which are attended by nearly 2,800,000 scholars between the ages of two and fifteen, out of almost 3,000,000, the whole number in France between those ages. All these establishments are under the patronage and control of government, which grants annually about 1,000,000 dollars for their support. The lycees, or royal colleges, are 36 in number. The name of university is now confined to Paris, but the provincial establishments bearing the name of academics are constituted like the universities of other countries. The French excel in chemistry, mathematics, astronomy, and belles lettres. Literary associations are very numerous, at the head of which stands the Institute in Paris, the most celebrated scientific body in the world. Every provincial town of conse- 87 ■^■'mi 314 KUROPE. 'U W h i:^ If;; -!> i!? ilhl'l E 'If 1.1 quencc has its public library, a museum, and in general a society for promoting literature and the arts. There are 273 such libra- ries in France. Until the revolution of 1830, the Roman Catholic was the estab- lished religion ; but no one sect now has any advantage over another. There are belonging to the Catholic church 4 cardi- nals, 14 archbishops, 66 bishops, besides a large body of eccle- siastics of various grades, amounting in number to 36,649. There are, also, 1983 religious establishrr nts, which contain 19,340 women. The salaries of both the Catholic and Protestant clergy, are paid out of the public treasury. The Catholic church costs the government annually about 7,000,000 dollars, and the Protes'ant 1 30,000 dollars. The Protestants in France amount to 2,000,000, and in Paris to 30,000. The government is a constitutional monarchy, and the succes- sion of the crown is limited to the male line. There is no men- archy in Europe so limited as the French. The legislative power resides in the king, the house of peers, and the house of deputies of the departments : each branch may propose a law. The num- ber of peers is unlimited, and the nomination of them belongs to the king. By a late law, the peerage is no longer hereditary. The people of France are active, brave, and ingenious ; they are polished and gay in their deportment and manners ; and politeness and urbanity may be traced through all classes of society, from the highest to the lowest : those in the upper ranks are very attentive to the graceful accomplishments, and excel in dancing, fencing, &c., and their example is followed as much as possible by their inferiors. The women take an active part in all the concerns and business of life : at court they are politicians; in the city they are merchants, accountants, and shopkeepers ; and in the country they labour on the farms with the men. The local divisions of France, prior to the revolution, were provinces, 32 in number. This arrangement is, however, super- seded by one into departments, much more minute ; the number of which, including Corsica, is 86. The population of France is estimated at about 32,500,000. The colonies of France are, in North America, the islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon ; in the West Indies, Guadaloupe, Mar- tinico, &c. ; in South America, Cayenne ; in Africa, Algiers, Senegal, Goree, and the Isle of Bourbon ; in Asia, Pondicherry and Karikal, on the Coromandel coast ; Chandernagore, in Ben- gal ; and Mahe, on the Malabar coast. The population of the colonies is estimated at 2,285,000, which, added to the popula- tion of France, makes a total for the subjects of the French mon- archy of 34,785,000. FRANCE. 315 1 a society juch libra- 5 the estab- ntago over :h 4 cardi- y of eccle- to 36,649. ich contain i Protestant lolic church ars, and the ince amount I the succes- 3 is no mon- slative power e of deputies . The num- im belongs to hereditary. ;enious; they lanners; and ill classes of 3 upper ranks , and excel in id as much as active part in re politicians ; shopkeepers ; le men. volution, were )wever, super- the number n of France is the islands of daloupe, Mar- frica, Algiers, 1, Pondicherry jagore, in Ben- julation of the to the popula- e French mon- Corsica is an island in the Mediterranean Sea, situated between the coast of Italy and the Island of Sardinia, about 110 miles trom the coast of France, and forms a part of that kingdom : it is 120 miles in length, and of an unequal breadth ; area, 3880 square miles. Population, in 1831, 185,000. This island is covered with mountains; the principal chain divides it into two unequal parts, and is covered with snow the greater part of the year. The soil, though stony and but little cultivated, is produc- tive in corn, wine, oranges, lemons, figs, &c. ; but the chief wealth consists in il, chestnuts, and timber. The fisheries are valuable. Bastia, the lai^est town, has a population of 12,000. Ajaccio, on the western coast, was the birth-place of Napoleon. It con- tains 8000 inhabitants. The land in Corsica is mostly public property. The commerce consists chiefly in the e\portation of coral, which abounds on the coasts. A narrow strait on the south divides this island from Sardinia. Paris, the capital of France, is the second city in Europe for population. It is built on both sides of the river Seine, about 200 miles from the sea by the course of the river, though only about half that distance by the roads, and is famous for its public build- ings, its scientific and literary institutions, and for the politeness and gaiety of the inhabitants. Population, 900,000 to 1,200,000. The city is irregularly built ; the houses are high, rising seven or eight stories, arid its streets, with a few exceptions, narrow. The boulevards or broad streets, planted with trees, are eighteen in number, and form pleasant promenades. There are 74 public places or squares, some of which are adorned with handsome monuments and fountains. The Seine is crossed by 19 bridges, and its banks are lined with 50 fine stone quays, the whole extent of which amounts to 15 miles. The Champ de Mars is an oblong park, bordered by rows of trees, and extending from the military school to the river ; it is the spot commonly appropriated to the reviews of troops and great public festivities. The gardens of the Tuileries to the west of the palace are elegantly laid out with gravelled walks, terraces, plots of flowers, shrubs, groves of trees and basins of water, inter- spersed with beautiful statues in bronze and marble. These are the favourite walks of the Parisians, and on Sundays they resort hither in crowds. The Luxembourg gardens in the southerly part of the city also afford beautiful walks. The Champs Elysees form a spacious common in the western part, and the entrance to the city in this quarter is one of the finest avenues in the world. Another fine square in Paris is the Place Vendomo, in the centre of which stands a column erected uvi iiW. 316 EUROPE. J ■ (''^v u f-. /ft . p r*- I- "I lilt' • ft. ■■i.rH ips; ■ !■ i-f.hr- ! ;« •- :i..: ' [I ■. I*.," : ki|i|: ■mm by Napoleon in honour of the Austerlitz campaign. It is an imitation cf Trajan's pillar in Rome, 134 feet high, and 12 in diameter. The column is of brass, mode from 426 Austrian and Prussian connon, and is covered with bas-reliefs, representing scenes of the battle it commemorates. On the Pont Neuf stands an equestrian statue of Henry IV. in bronze, one of the finest ornaments of the city. A similar one of Louis XIV. occupies a small area called the Place des Victoires. A great number of elegant fountains adorn and purify the streets ond morkets. An immense fountain, in the shape of an elephant, in bronze, was begun by Napoleon on the spot occupied by the Bastile, but still remains unfinished. The public buildings in Paris which deserve notice for their size nnd magnificence are too numerous even to be mentioned here. In this respect Paris is far above London. The Tuileries form an extensive and somewhat irregular pile nearly one-fifih of a mile in front, which has a noble eflfect. The Louvre is a model of sym- metry, and is thought to make the nearest approach to perfection of any modern building. It contains 1000 paintings, 1500 sta- tues, and 20,000 drawings. The church of Notre Dame is a noble gothic edifice, 390 {eel in length, with towers 204 feet high. It was 200 years in build- ing, and was finished about the year 1200. The church of St. Genevieve is now called the Pantheon, and is designet^ as a mau- soleum for the ashes of celebrated men : it is a magnificent edifice in the modern style. The Hospital of Invalids is an immense building, designed for the residence of disabled soldiers. It is surmounted by a splendid gilt dome, which alone was 30 years in building, and is esteemed one of the masterpieces of French architecture. The Jardin des Plantes is the noblest collection of interesting objects in natural history that has ever been formed. The libraries of Paris are very large, and formed upon the most liberal principles, l^fost of them are public, and accessible at all times to the rich and poor. The royal library contains above 500,000 volumes, besides 100,000 manuscripts, 100,000 medals, many hundreds of thousands of tracts, and 1,500,000 engravings. This library is crowded constantly by persons of all classes in pursuit of knowledge. The other libraries have from 150,000 volumes downward. There are about 30 theatres, large and small, in Pans. All the theatres in France pay a tenth part of their receipts to the poor. The houses in the older parts of Paris are very high. The streets are generally without sidewalks, and some are paved with flat stones. All those parts without the boulevards are called l* U A N C 1 : . 31? It is an ind 12 in Btrian and presenting cuf stands the finest occupies a number of rkets. An itonze, was ile, but still or their size tioned here, ries form an \h of a mile odel of sy m- to perfection s, 1500 sta- [\ce, 390 feet jars in build- :',hurch of St. iet\ as a mau- ificent edifice an immense )ldiers. It is was 30 years :es of French of interesting med upon the and accessible jrary contains ripts, 100,000 and 1,500,000 by persons of libraries have in Pans. AH receipts to the are very high. 5ome are paved rards are called fauxhourgs. 7'he gates of the city are denominnted barriers, and hero passengers must exhibit their passports, and merchan- dise pay a duty on entering the city. The neighbourhood of Paris is highly cultivated, and there are many sites at once beautiful and romantic. The celebrated St. Cloud, with its superb palace, its park, gardens, cascade, fine view and political associations, is within 5 miles ; and Versailles, with its magnificent but melancholy grandeur, is within 12 miles of the capital. Lyons is considered as the second city in France, and amongst the foremost in regard to commerce and industry. It is on the whole a noble city. The quays along the Rhone are superb. The cathedral is highly ornamented in the florid gothic style ; and the squares, especially the Place de Bellecour^ with its foun- tains and statues, are nowhere surpassed. On the other hand, the old streets are narrow, bordered by lofty and gloomy walls, and divided by a muddy stream. This city is celebrated for its manufactures of silk and other goods, which employ a great number of the inhabitants. There are here numerous hospitals and churches ; several learned socie- ties, and institutions for education, among which is a royal col- lege and a fine library of about 100,000 volumes, &c. Popula- tion of ihe city, 108,000. Marseilles, on the Mediterranean, is the chief commercial city of France. It consists of two divisions, the old and the new town : the former is composed of narrow streets and ancient houses. The new town is equal in beauty to any city in France; the streets are broad and straight, the squares large and hand- some, and the buildings remarkable for their elegance. The quays are crowded with ships and merchants from various parts of the world. Population, 116,000. Bordeaux is situated on the Garonne river, 60 miles from its mouth : it is one of the chief commercial towns in France, and exports large quantities of wine, brandy, oil, fruits, &c. Its merchants are engaged also in the colonial trade, and in the whale and cod fisheries. Population, 94,000. Rouen, on the Seine, below Paris, was formerly a place of much wealth, and is famous for its manufactures of jewelry. Population, 90,000. Nantes, on the Loire, near its mouth, is a considerable com- mercial place, and a part of it is very elegantly built: population, 72,000. Lille, 140 miles north-east of Paris, is a frontier town, and well fortified ; it is surrounded by walls, and was fortified by Vauban ; the citadel is considered one of the strongest in Europe: population, 70,000. Toulouse, on the canal of Languedoe, is 27* i^.M • ■*< « ii\8 EUROPE. next in nntiquity to Paris : it is surrounded by walls, and hai a lo\vn-hoi:sc and church uf great magnificence: population, 54,0U0. Strusburg, on the borders ofCjIertnuny, is one of the best fortified cities in Europe : the steeple of its cathedral is 574 feet high, ond is the loflicst building in Europe : population, 60,000. Orleans, on the Loire, has u noble cathedral and bridge : popu* lation, 40,000. Avignon, on the Rhone, wos once the residence of the popes; ond Nismos, in the same neighbourhood, possesses the remains of a large Roman amphitheatre: population, 31,000 Toulon, a little to the east of Marseilles, is an important seaport nnd has an orsenal and magazine, containing an immense quan- tity of stores for the navy : population, 30,000. Brest, at the entrance of the British Channel, is the chief naval station of the kingdom : it hos a quay a mile in length : population, 26,000. i V" I:' ft';. ^^.■•■]tt mM jlig' I'lil'r '>?■ SPAIN. Spain comprises the chief part of a great peninsula lying in the south-west part of Europe. It is advantageously situated for trade and commerce, and two centuries ago was the most for- midi Me power in Christendom, but it is now comparatively weak; and is backward in agriculture, manufactures, the arts, and edu- cation. It is bounded north by the Bay of Biscay and France, east and south by the Mediterranean Sea and the Straits of Gibraltar, and west by Portugal and the Atlantic Ocean. Its greatest length from east to west, is 640 miles; breadth, 530; area, 183,000 square miles. Spain is a mountainous country, and a large por- tion of it has an elevated surface. The Pyrenees form its north- eastern boundary, and are connected with the Cantabrian chain, which extends throughout the northern part of the kingdom. The chief of the central and southern chains, are the Sierra To- ledo, Sierra Morena, and Sierra Nevada. The mountain of Montserrat is a detached eminence of the eastern Pyrenees, about 30 miles north-west of Barcelona. It consists of a cluster of sharp peaks, rising to the height of 3300 feet, and always capped with clouds. The whole mountain is 24 miles in circumference. There are 14 hermitages upon dif- ferent parts of these heights, and about half-way up is a magnifi- cent convent of Benedictines. The scenery in every part of this remarkable eminence is strikingly bold and romantic. The rivers of Spain form an important feature in its geogra- phy . None of them, however, are of much importance as medi- i:;:|!| SPAIN 310 iil ind hat a n, 64,000. i8t fortified t high, and dge : popu- o residenco I, possesses on, 31 ,000 ant seaport nense quan- Jrest, at the tation of the n, 26,000. isula lying in y situated for the most for- rativclyweak; arts, and edu- [minence of the Barcelona. It I height of 3300 Ae mountain is iitages upon dif- [up is a magnifi- jery part of this mtic. re in its geogra- )rtance as medi- ums of communication : tliuy have mostly shullow and rocky bods, and dry up in summer to such a degreu as to bo nearly useless for navigation. Tho principal arc the Tagus, Ebro, Guadionu, Guadalquivir, Duoro, Guadalaviur, Xucar, &c. This country lies in tho southern part of the temperate zone. The cold ia never oxcusuive, even in the northern parts. In the south the heat of mid-summer would bo intolerable, but for tho sea-breeze, which cools tho atmosphere. The provirccs along tho Mediterranean, aru the paradise of this kingdon). An ever- lasting spring seems to reign in this delightful country. Tho sky of Andalusia is remarkably beautiful ; the inhabitants of Seville atlirm, that a day was never known when the sun did not shine upon their city. The greater part of the land in Spain belongs to the nobility, the church, and towns, or corporate bodies. Tho state of agri- culture is wretched in the extreme, and tho implements of hus- bandry are very rude. Wheat, rye, barley, henin, and Indian corn, are cultivated in almost all the provinces. Olives grow in >ho southern parts ; and in this quarter may be seen large fields of saffron and rice, and cotton plantations. Every part of the country produces wine. The rearing of sheep is an important branch of industry in Spain. The fineness of the Spanish me- rino wool is well known. There are no less than 16,000 shep- herds, and the number of sheep, in 1826, was upwards of 18,000,000. Spain has naturally great commercial advantages, yet the foreign commerce is limited. Wine, oil, fruits, and wool, are the chief articles of export. The coasting trade is active and im- portant ; but the want of good roads, as well as of navigable rivers and canals, greatly retards the inland commerce. The anchovy, tunny, and coral fisheries, are actively prosecuted. The manufactures of this country were once very important, and are still considerable : they comprise some silk and woollen fabrics, with leather, paper, hats, and soap. Tobacco is manu- factured only at Seville. There is a royal manufactory of mir- rors at St. Ildefonso; and some iron and steel ware, and brandy, are likewise made in various places. Barilla, from which soda is obtained, is manufactured to some extent along the coast of the Mediterranean : it is procured by burning a vegetable, which is sown for the purpose. The revenue of Spain, once the largest in Europe, is now greatly reduced ; it is supposed to be annually about 30,000,000 dollars, and the public debt amounts to 800,000,000 dollars. The army comprised some years ago about 90,000 men ; anu the navy three ships of the line, four frigates, and 30 smaller ii.h '■44 <"" y 320 EUROPE. i'fii: f f-| ■r-t^ji .0/. '('■ 'ifv ■ .:^' fl '■■■.! ■V'.i'^i ill* I *ll,tl)<' lf|:^ii.'' •..^' vessels : the present unsettled state of the kingdom, however, renders it difficult to ascertain the actual condition of the revenue or any other department of the national affairs. Spain is a limited hereditary monarchy. The constitution of 1837 is similar in many respects to that of France, and guaran- ties the liberty of the press, and other fundamental principles of freedom. The power of enacting laws resides with the Cortes, in conjunction with the sovereign. The Covtes are composed of two legislative bodies of equal powers; the Senate, and Congress of Deputies. The religion of this country is strictly Roman Catholic. The number of archbishops is 8, and there are 51 bishops. The clergy of all classes, including monks and nuns, comprises 188,625 individuals. The sovereign nominates to all ecclesi- astical dignities, and even to the smaller benefices. The clergy are the most powerful body in Spain, but their influence is dimin- ishing : they retain, however, a strong hold upon the favour of the lower class, and distribute from monasteries alms or food daily to the poor. There are 11 universities in Spain, but their plans of instruc- tion are antiquated, and seem to be so directed as to spread error and encourage ignorance, rather than knowledge. The few ele- mentary schools are in no better condition. The lower classes seldom learn to read and write, and those above them are but imperfectly instructed, there being but little encouragement for education. The Spaniards of the higher class are haughty, reserved, fond of parade, and ambitious of dignities and titles ; but the common people are gay, good-humoured, and courteous, and are frugal and sober in their habits. Indolence is the common vice of the nation, and the great curse of the country ; but the people of Catalonia and Biscay form striking exceptions to the general rule, being more active and industrious than the inhabitants of the other provinces. The people of Spain have generally expressive countenances, dark hair and complexion, and brilliant eyes. The women are distinguished for beauty of person and dignity of manner ; and are noted for their fidelity and constancy. The strictness with which they were formerly treated, and the seclu- sion in which they were kept, are in a great measure done away. The favourite amusements of the people are music, dancing, and exhibitions of bull- fighting: the latter are generally attended by thousands of both sexes and of all ranks, and are looked upon with enthusiastic delight. The national dance is the fan- dango, which is full of liveliness and grace ; the bolero is another form of the same dance. . . SPAIN. 321 ■J!^^ however, e revenue titution of id guaran- inciples of Ihe Cortes, imposed of d Congress lolic. The hops. The I, comprises all ecclesi- The clergy nee is dimin- he favour of ilms or food ns of instruc- 5 spread error The few ele- i lower classes them are but Liragement for reserved, fond It the common ind are frugal ion vice of the the people of lie general rule, abitants of the fally expressive ant eyes. The and dignity ot Instancy. A he I and the seclu- [ure done away. Imusic, dancing, Lrally attended land are looked ance is the fan- Tolero is another The Spaniards arc temperate both in eating and drinking : the noted national dish is the ollapodrida, a compound of various meats, vegetables and herbs, which even foreigners admit to be palatable. The pleasures of society are sought chiefly at tertu- lias or evening parties, where only slight refreshment is presented ; but refrescos or dinner parties, are given on a large scale upon special occasions. Spain is divided into 14 provinces, some of which have the title )f kingdoms ; «ach of these has its separate administration, and Tiost of them are subdivided into several smaller provinces. Of dll the immense territories in America which formerly belonged to Spain, none remain under her dominion but the islands of Cuba and Porto Rico. In Africa, she possesses Ceuta and some other towns on the Barbary coast, and the Canary Islands. In Oceanica, are the Philippines, and Ladrone Islands. The number of inhabitants in Spaifr is estimated at 12,000,000, and that of the colonies supposed to be about 4,088,000, making a total of 16,088,000 for the Spanish monarchy. The Balearic Islands are a group in the Mediterranean Sea : they consist of Majorca, Minorca, Ivica, and Fromentera ; all belonging to this kingdom. Majorca, the largest, is about 100 miles from the coast : it is 40 miles in extent each way, and is mountainous. Minorca possesses the valuable harbour of Port Mahon, which is often visited by the national vessels of the United States. These islands have generally a good soil, and produce oranges, olives, wine, &c. Population, 184,000. Madrid, the capital of Spain, is a handsome but somewhat gloomy city : the streets are well paved, and have broad foot- paths. The main street of Alcala, long, spacious, and bordered on each side by a row of princely houses, attracts particular admiration. The Prado, a wide public walk, bordered by trees, and connected with gardens all open to the public, is equally con- ducive to ornament and pleasure. There are many public foun- tains, supplied with pure, light, and salubrious water, filtered through beds of gravel and sand, from a distance of seven or eight leagues. The royal palace, built by Philip V., is a spacious and mag- nificent structure, though the taste displayed in it is a subject of controversy. It contains numerous fine paintings, which do not equal, however, those of the Escurial. The Retiro, with its fine gardens, was defaced by the French, who made it a military post ; an extensive and costly menagerie is now forming within its pre- cincts. The museum of statuary and painting, a new and elegant building, has recently been enriched with some of the finest pic- tures from the royal palaces. The cabinet of natural history. '•,, ;\;. ■'" 1!" ''rii, ■■ffei :■ I "I 'W t:-. ■■' >. 822 EUROPE. I 'M: € m •■ 11 •3 -! Wm :, supported by the government, is also a handsome structure, and its contents valuable. Population, 201,000. Barcelona is, after the capital, the largest city in Spain ; and was, until the disturbances broke out which now agitate the coun- try, distinguished for its commerce and manufactures : the latter comprised woollen, silk, and cotton goods. A thousand vessels entered its ports, and the annual exports were reckoned to amount to 8,000,000 dollars. The city contains four public libraries, eight colleges, several hospitals, numerous churches, and some other remarkable public edifices. Population, 150,000. Seville is beautifully situated on the Guadalquivir. It was formerly very rich and populous, being the chief mart for the American and India trade. The public buildings are very ele- gant. The general appearance of the city indicates the Moorish character of its former possessors. The streets are narrow, but clean ; the houses are whitewashed, and furnished with balco- nies; every third or fcuiih house has a garden and orangery. The cathedral is one of the largest in Spain, and contains the tomb of Columbus. The inhabitants manufacture silk, tobacco, snuff and cigars. Population, 91,000. Cadiz, on the Atlantic coast, has, by means of its excellent harbour, engrossed the trade once enjoyed by Seville. This city stands upon the isle of Leon, which is connected with the conti- nent by a bridge. From the height of the houses, the narrow- ness of the streets, and the smallness of the windows, many parts of the city have a gloomy appearance. Here are two cathedrals and a very large hospital. The city is strongly fortified, and is one of the most important sea-ports in Spain. Since the loss of the American colonies, however, its commerce has been much reduced. Its population has a more mixed and diversified aspect than that of any other city in the kingdom. Population, 53,000. Granada was founded by the Moors, and at the period of their greatest glory, contained 400,000 inhabitants. It is still cele- brated as the most beautiful city in Spain, although its population has dwindl'od to 80,000. The houses are nearly all in the Moor- ish style. It has many beautiful squares, fountains, and public buildings, with 7 colleges and 11 hospitals. In the immediate neighbourhood is the Alhambra, a magnificent Moorish palace, occupying the space of a small town. Every traveller has been struck with admiration at the sight of its splendid halls, golden saloons, courts, alcoves, fountains, colonnades, and mosaic pave- ments, which almost realize the description of fairy land. Valen'~ia, on the Guadalaviar, at its entrance into the Medi- terranean, has many manufactories, and is a rich and elegant city. The surrounding country is highly cultivated, and forms SPAIN, 323 ture, and )ain; and the coun- the latter nd vessels to amount • libraries, and some 0. ir. It was lart for the re very ele- the Moorish narrow, but with balco- id orangery, contains the silk, tobacco, its excellent e. This city nth the conti- 1, the narrow- is, many parts |wo cathedrals .rtified, and is ice the loss of iS been much lersified aspect lation, 53,000. [period of their ^t is still cele- i its population A\ in the Moor- fins, and public the immediate [oorish palace, veller has been Id halls, golden d mosaic pave- ry land, into the Medi- ;h and elegant ited, and forms a delightful garden, the air of which is loaded with perfumes. The city has a large commerce in the exportation of silk. Popu- lation, 66,000. Cordova stands on the Guadalquivir, and makes a splendid appearance at a distance. It contains a magnificenl cathedral, with 16 steeples and 4000 columns of jasper and mar- ble. This building was originally a mosque, and was erected by the Moors. It affords an imposing evidence of the magnificent spirit and refined taste of that people. Cordova is now famous for its trade in leather. Population, 67,000. Its environs pro- duce the finest breed of horses in Spain. Saragossa stands on the Ebro, and has considerable trade and manufactures. It is remarkable for the siege it sustained against the French, during the peninsular war. Population, 52,000. Its university has 2000 students, but not much literature. Malaga and Alicant, on the Mediterranean, and Corunna and Bilbao, on the Atlantic, are also considerable seaports. The first is reckoned the third commercial town in the kingdom. It ex- ports largely the well-known Malaga or mountain wine ; also, fine raisins and other fruits, anchovies, &c. Population, 52,000. Bilbao is noted for its large exports of merino wool. Population, 15,000. Toledo, once the proud capital of Spain, contained, in the days of its prosperity, a population of 200,000, which has been reduced to 25,000. Its manufactures of wool and silk, which are said to have employed nearly 40,000 men, have dis- appeared ; and government has in vain attempted to revive that of swords, of which those formerly manufactured at Toledo were valued above all others. Gibraltar is an important fortress, situated upon the strait which forms the entrance to the Mediterranean. The fortifications oc- cupy a craggy rock, rising to the height of 1439 feet. The town consists of one long street, passing along the foot of the rock. The whole forms a peninsula, washed on one side by the Medi- terranean, and on the other side by a bay five miles in width. The rock is steep in every part, and so strongly fortified as to be impregnable. It was captured by the English in 1704, and has been retained by them ever since. It was besieged in 1782 by a French and Spanish army of 30,000 men, and bombarded by powerful floating batteries, but without effect. The British regard it as one of their most important possessions. The town is a general mart for goods from every quarter, and has a popu< lation of 14,000, mostly English. Republic of Andorra. — This little republic, with a territory of hardly 200 square miles, and a population of about 15,000 souls, occupies a valley on the southern side of the Pyrenees. .. i "j^ -. 'O m J' : ;-^ Wm '. 'W ■■■ > ^■;. 324 EUROPE. Beside Andorra, the capital, a town of 2000 inhabitants, it con- tains five villages, which export iron and timber. It is governed by a syndic, who presides over the council of the valley, and by two viguiers, appointed, the one by the king of France, and the other by the bishop of Urgel, in Spain. i ■ti. Mr ' ■ ^'^i • i . ■,■ . ,' , ■ 1 ■;■» 1* ■' ' ■ ' $■ r ' ' ■■■■■ , t ■ f m m- ^ ■■•■ '■ I it';' :'t t ■?{■■' : . ■. PORTUGAL. This kingdom, like Spain, has declined from its former great* ness. Three centuries ago, it was celebrated for the valour of its soldiers and the skill of its sailors. It became distinguished for its exertions and success in modern discoveries, and was for a time the first commercial nation in the world. Portugal is the most western country of continental Europe, and is very similar to Spain in climate, soil, and productions. It is bounded on the north and east by Spain, and on the west and south by the Atlantic Ocean. It is about 360 miles in length, and from 100 to 140 miles wide: area, 89,000 square miles. The mountains of Portugal may be considered as prolongations of those of Spain, and seldom rise to the first magnitude : they cover a considerable part of the country, leaving between them many picturesque and fertile valleys. There are only two exten* sive plains, one on the south of the Tagus, and the other immedi- ately south of the Douro. The rivers consist chiefly of the spacious terminations of the greatest streams of Spain in their progress to the ocean. The Douro forms the great maritime emporium of Oporto, and the Tagus that of Lisbon. The Guadiana, also, in its lower course, flows along the eastern frontier of Portugal. The Minho, a much smaller stream, comes down from the north of Spain. The industry and commerce of Portugal, which presented so brilliant an aspect during her era of prosperity, have sunk lower than those of aunost any other European nation. Agriculture did not, until very lately, eriperience any of the improvements which have become general in the rest of Europe. The chief object of attention is the vine, which, with the olive and other fruit trees, is cultivated in the valleys and on the sides of the hills, in the northern parts of the kingdom. Here is pro- duced the port wine, which forms the main basis of Portuguese trade, and finds so certain a market in Great Britain. The entire produce is estimated at 80,000 pipes. Of white wine Por- tugal produces about 60,000 pipes ; but this is of inttrior quality, and chiefly consumed at home. Sheep are bred on the hills to PORTUGAL. 325 ts, it con- I governed jy, and by •e, and the irmer great- le valour of listinguished and was for ntal Europe, productions. 1 on the west lies in length, are miles, prolongations TDitude: they between them aly two exten- other immedi- a pretty large extent ; but not so abundantly as in Spain, neither is their wool so fine. The manufactures of Portugal scarcely deserve to be named. Little is known beyond the working of their wool for domestic use by each family or neighbourhood ; all their finer fabrics are imported. Working in gold and silver plate, forms almost the only exception ; cambrics also are well made in some places ; and a few other local objects might be enumerated. Various metals and minerals abound in this country, but there are no mines wrought except a few of iron. Very little attention is paid to the proper working of mines. Fish of the finest kinds are caught in considerable quantity, for immediate consumption ; but the salt which the kingdom so abundantly produces, is not used for preserving them ; and a large import of salted fish is still necessary to meet the wants of a population so strictly Catholic. The commerce which formed the greatness of Portugal when her ports interchanged the products of the east and the west, is now comparatively a mere shadow. The exports are port wine, salt, wool, and some fruit. The imports are grain, salt fish, and a variety of manufactures, chiefly from Great Britain. The troubles, revolutions, and civil wars, which have distracted Por- tugal for the last twenty years, have depressed not only the com- merce of the country, but likewise every branch of national in- dustry. The established and exclusive religion is the Catholic. The church comprises one patriarch, two archbishops, and thirteen bishops. There were in Portugal 500 monasteries and convents, containing about 11,000 monks and nuns; but these establish- ments were suppressed in 1834. Education is in an unimproved state, and nothing has been done for the instruction of the lower class of the inhabitants. There are two universities, one at Coim- bra, attended by about 800 students, and a smaller one at Evora. The course of studies in these institutions is of an obsolete description, and not at all suited to the spirit and wants of the present times. The arts have hardly an existence in this country, and science and learning are much circumscribed. All the best foreign-works are prohibited, and every thing published is subjected to a strict censorship. The literature of i'jrtugal, during the period of its glory, was by no means contemptible. The genius and fate of Camoens spread his name throughout Europe, and entitled him to rank among the few modern epic poets. The Portuguese are of the same origin as the Spaniards, but they early formed an independent nation and a separate language. Altho ,gh there exists a strong mutual dislike between the two 28 ^i] < 1, ! r ^.T'^. I I 'W^ r*.'. ' I' 1 ■ ■» ■ /- • 326 EUROPE. 'f. 3f-*' ■ ■' ■1 ■ .1 ihrmi nations, they differ little in character, manners, habits, amuse- ments, and social condition. The peasantry are held by the nobles in a state but little short of bondage : they have been usually represented as indolent, cowardly, and revengeful ; but on many occasions during the last war with France, they dis- played qualities not unworthy their gallant ancestors. The government of Portugal is a constitutional hereditary monarchy, but it has undergone various changes within a lew years, and in the spring of 1838 a new constitution was accepted by the queen. The revolutions and civil wars that have suc- ceeded each other within the last 15 or 20 years, render it ditfi- cult to give any certain account of the revenue, debt, and mili- tary forces of the kingdom. This country is divided into six provinces, several of which, like those of Spain in reference to events in their past history, are sometimes called kingdoms. Population, 3,600,000. The foreign possessions of Portugal are the Azore, Madeira, and Cape Verde Islands ; Congo, Angola, Benguela, and Mozambique, in Africa ; Goa and Macao, in Asia ; and part of Timor, in Malaysia. The population of these is estimated at 1,632,000. Total of the Portuguese monarchy, 5,232,000. Lisbon, the capital of Portugal, stands on the Tagus, ten miles from its mouth. The harbour, formed by the expansion of the river, is nine miles wide, and is one of the finest havens in the world. The interior of the city is ill-built, with dirty, narrow, and crooked streets, yet some parts of modern construction are not wanting in elegance. There are 13 large squares, the finest of which is the Pra^a do Commercio ; this is fronted by elegant buildings, and bordered toward the river by the handsomest quays in Europe. The cathedral is magnificent, and remarkable for the boldness of its dome. The royal hospital is an excellent institution, and there is a large foundling hospital. Lisbon has also three obser- vatories, many colleges and academies, 180 churches and chapels, 75 convents, and a royal library of 80,000 volumes. But the most remarkable edifice which it contains is the aqueduct of Bemfica : it is 10 miles in length ; some of its arches are 200 feet high and 100 feet wide. Altogether this is one of the most mag- nificent structures that have been erected in modern times, and is not inferior to any ancient work of the same kind. There are three royal palaces in Lisbon and the neighbourhood, and around the city are between 6000 and 7000 quintasy or country-houses. Population, 260,000. Oporto, the second city of the kingdom, is situated near the mouth of the Douro river. Part of the town is well built, espe- GERMANY. 327 cially when compared with most others in this "oimtry. The chief dependence of Oporto is its commerce with England, which remains unimpaired amid the general diminution of that with America. There are about 30 English houses regularly settled here. Oporto has a great trade in the exportation of the wine, .jailed port wine; besides oranges, lemons, &c. Population, 70,000. Coimbra is beautifully situated on the Mondego river, about 120 miles from Lisbon ; but the streets, as in other old Portu- guese towns, are crowded, dirty, and very steep. It has been called the Athens of Portugal, from its university, which contains 18 colleges, with 40 professors, and a large number of students. Population, 15,000. St. Ubes, or Setubal, is a considerable sea-port, south of the Tagus : it exports wine, oil, oranges, and salt ; of the last, 10^,000 tons are made here annually : population, 15,000. Braga, near the northern boundary, has some fine Roman ruins : population, 14,000. Elvas, in the eastern part of the kingdom, is « strongly fortified town : population, 10,000. Evora, in the south, has many Roman remains, a*^ jng which is a temple of Diana, now converted into public shambles: population, 10,000. GERMANY. Germanv is an extensive country in the centre of Europe, which has long exercised a most "'mportant influence on the political affairs of that division of the earth. It comprehends the states forming the Germanic Confederation, and comprises a variety of territories »trargely intermingled with each other. The whole region stretches from the Baltic Sea to the Gulf of Venice on the one hand, and on the other from the river Rhine to the Oder ; being 600 miles in length, and 550 in breadth, including an area of 251,000 square miles. The number of German princes, temporal and ecclesiastical, was once upwards of 300, each independent in the administration of his own territory; but subject to the emperor as head of the empire, and to certain laws enacted at different times, for the common advantage. Before the French revolution, Germany comprehended nine great divisions, called cKoles; but by the treaty of Vienna in 1815, it was divided into 39 distinct states. The German territories now comprise about one-third part of the empire of Austria ; the greatest part of Prussia ; Holstein and Lauenburg, belonging to Denmark; Luxemburg, belonging ta i; ,'f ■■Mm T^P 328 EUROPE. '. -.ii the Netherlands ; the kingdoms of Hanover, Bavaria, Wirtem- berg, and Saxony; with 27 smaller independent states, governed by native German princes ; and four free cities. These form the union styled the Germanic Confederation, the object of which is to provide for mutual safety and defence. Each state is independent within its own territory, but for general pur- poses the whole is governed by the Diet of Germany, a body composed of plenipotentiaries and deputies from the different states. The northern parts of Germany are low and level, while the central and southern districts are traversed by several consider- able ranges of mountains : the principal of these are the Hartz, Erzegeberg, Riesengeberg, Bohmer-Wald, and the Alps. This country is intersected by numerous rivers, which afford great advantages for internal commerce. Its principal streams, the Danube, Rhine. Elbe, Oder, and VVeser, rank amongst the most important in Europe. The canals are comparatively few : the principal are the canal of Kiel, joining the Baltic to the North Sea ; the canal of Travemunde, extending from Lubeck to Ham- burg, and some others, chiefly in the Prussian states. The climate in the north of Germany is rather severe ; in the south mild, and generally healthful, except in the marshy districts on the coasts of the North Sea. The soil of this country is very various ; sandy plains and barren heaths abound in the north- east ; swamps and marshes in the north-west ; but large portions of the interior and south-western parts are uncommonly fertile. Mining is one of ihe sources of wealth in which Germany may be said to surpass every other country in Europe. Nowhere has the science been more studied, or brought to greater perfection. The principal mining districts are Styria and Carinlhia, in Austria ; Silesia, in Prussia ; the Erzegeberg, in Saxony ; and the Hartz, in Hanover. The products are gold, silver, copper, lead, tin, iron, mercury, and other metals : salt and coal also abound, and the aggregate amount of the mineral wealth of the country is immense. Germany contains upwards of 1000 mineral springs and baths, of which the most celebrated are Carlsbad, in Bohe- mia ; Toplitz, in Austria ; Seltzer, in Nassau ; Pyrmont, in West- phalia ; and Aix la Chapelle. The products of the industry of this country, an extensive region cultivated by a laborious people, are of large amount. They consist of plain, solid, somewhat rough articles ; in exchange for which, are procured the finer manufactures of England and France, and the delicate productions of southern Europe and the Indies. i'i'! ;'Vt GERMANY 329 ia, Wirtem- 9, governed leration, the jncc. Each general pur- iuy, a body the different el, while the ral consider- re the Hartz, \lps. which afford iipal streams, amongst the .ratively few : I to the North beck to Ham- js. severe ; in the arshy districts ountry is very in the north- large portions nonly fertile, rmanymaybe (Where has the Irfection. The a, in Austria ; nd the Hartz, jper, lead, tin, lo abound, and [the country is jineral springs |sbad, in Bohe- lont, in We.t- , an extensive I large amount. Ls ; in exchange If England and jiurope and the Agriculture, throughout the whole of Germany, is carried on with great industry, though not with the some skill and intelli- gence as in Great Britain. The improved p esses of this import- ant art, however, are making their way, though slowly. The cultivators are mostly little farmers or small proprietors, who till the ground with their own hands Rye is the grain most extensively cultivated, and forms the food of the great body of the people. Wheat is also raised largely, especially in Bavaria and Austria, and buckwheat on the sandy tracts of northern Germany. Barley and oats are gene- ral, and Indian-corn abounds in Moravia and the extreme south- ern districts. Peas, beans, lentils, and other kinds of pulse, are produced in great abundance ; also, flax, hops, rape-seed, &c. Wine is a German production ; all the southern districts, as far as 51 degrees north, produce it, but only some of the Rhenish wines are in much request abroad. The commerce o^ Germany, though extensive, is not equal to that which formerly existed. She was, after Italy, the first Eu- ropean country in which commerce revived ; and the Hanseatic league once engrossed the whole trade of the north, but in recent times Germany has been outstripped by Holland, by Britain, and even by France. The shipping is chiefly confined to Hamburg, Lubec, and Bremen, the remnant of the Hanse towns, which still enjoy many of their old privileges in the ports of Europe, and whose flag is seen in every part of that division of the earth. A commercial league has lately been formed by the principal states of Northern and Central Germany, for the purpose of relieving internal commerce from the restrictions to which it has been subjected by the numerous customs-barriers of the different powers. The parties to this league agree to the suppression of all duties upon the internal commerce between their respective territories, and establish a common frontier, with a common rate of duties, in reference to their external commerce with other states. Prussia, Bavaria, Baden, Wirtemberg, Saxony, the Saxon duchies, the Hesses, Nassau, Frankfort, and several other small states, have already joined this league, which thus comprises a population of about 20,.500,000. The exports of Germany include grain of various kinds ; salted provisions, especially hams ; live cattle and hogs ; timber, iron and steel ; lead, salt, linen, woollens, porcelain, glass, ashes, &c. In return for these essential articles, she receives nearly all the luxuries of life ; the manufactures of Britain, the wines of France, the sweets and aromatics of the east and west ; also dye-stuffs* and all the cotton and silk which are necessary for her own manufactures. The internal commerce of Germany, notwith- 28* :;f : ;^;fi' I . 'Pi 330 EUROPK. hi ' '1 • W :^ ■ m '. ■■,/ i-§:- standing all the obstructions under which it labours, is extensive. It owes this advantage chiefly to its noble rivers, on which ves- sels of large burden can pass nearly from one extremity to the other. Though the manufactures of Germany arc now less extensive than those of Great Britain or France, yet they are still highly important. The chief fabric is linen, which is produced to some extent in Prussia, Hanover, Brunswick, &c. ; the others are wool- lens, printed cottons, manufactures of leather, porcelain, glass, refined sugar, musical and mathematical instruments, clocks, watches, toys, cutlery, &c. Germany has no great capital, like France and England, in which the wealth, power, and civilization of the state, are as it were concentrated. On the other hand, no country in Europe has so many cities and towns of from 3000 to 5000 inhabitants. The people of this region consist of two distinct races, the Ger- man and Sclavonian. The Germans are estimated at 30,000,000, and are divided into two families. High and Low German, dis- tinguished less by physical differences than by character, and particularly by the mode of pronouncing the language. The Sclavonic race is reckoned at 6,000,000. They are much in- ferior in civilization to the Germans, but are a laborious people, formerly almost all in a state of bondage, but now mostly eman- cipated, and ma iy of them possessing considerable wealth. Be- sides these leading races, there are a number of Italians, some French, and from 250,000 to 300,000 Jews, comprising altoge- ther a population of 37,000,000. The Germans are distinguished for their attainments in litera- ture, science, and the arts. They are particularly eminent in biblical and critical learning, statistics, political economy, ma- thematics, astronomy, chemistry, and mechanics. No part of Europe probably can boast so many learned men and celebrated authors. This country is famous for its universities, which are much resorted to from other countries. The number before 1802 was 36 ; since that period several have been suppressed, and the pre- sent number is 20. Of those which stand in the first rank are Gottingen, Halle, Jena, Leipsic, and Heidelburg. Vienna is the most eminent as a medical school. In about 150 towiiis there are libraries open to the public, many of which are very large ; besides the universities, there are nrme- rous seminaries, styled gymnasia, many of which are celebrated schools of learning. The German language is spoken liy a greater population than any other in Europe, except perhaps the French. It is derived from the Teutonic, and is divided into a :j\n". TV '; . 4 / l^l' I. §■11 . : ■■' ..'1 - J : (GERMANY 881 1 extenaivc. which ves- mi*.y to the js extensive still highly cccl to sonic rs arc wool- elain, glass, snts, clocks, England, in ,te» are as it y in Europe ) inhabitants, ices, the Ger- l 30,000,000, German, dis- haracter, and iguage. The are much in- orious people, mostly eman- > wealth. Be- Italians, some jrising altoge- icnts in litera- lly eminent in leconomy, ma- No part of [and celebrated lich are much [fore 1802 was 1, and the pre- first rank are Vienna is the le public, many \\ere are nume- are celebrated spoken l^y a bpt perhap s the divided into a number of dialects. The Saxon dialect, called High Gorman, is the languu-o of books and gcnteol society. In regard to religion, Germany has been the scene of the greatest revolution in modern times. In its bosom the reforma- tion sprung up ; and within it were carried on the most formida- ble of the conflicts between the old and the new system. Else- where, one or the other finally prevailed ; but in Germany they have settled into nearly an equal division of the country. Speak- ing generally, the whole south may bo called Catholic ; thu whole north, Protestant. Of the greater states, the Catholic religion rules in Austria and Bavaria ; the Protestant, in Prussia, Suxony, Hesse, and Hanover. A complete toleration is now everywhere granted to every profession. The Catholics still hold tiie majority, being reckoned at 20,000,000; the Protestants, 16,000,000; Jews, Moravians, Mennonitcs, Hussites, and some smaller sects, make up the rest of the population. The Germans arc generally a frugal, industrious, and perse- vering race. The habits of the mass of the people are simple and domestic, and honesty and fidelity usually distinguish their transactions. To their ingenuity the world is indebted for the important inventions if printing, watches, gunpowder, and litho- graphy, besides a nuniber of less important matters. The lower classes are deficient in enterprise, and adhere closely to ancient habits and usages; and in some quarters they are still very ignorant, and adverse to improvement. All ranks are much attached to music, and the German composers have produced works of the highest order in that delightful science. Dancing is the principal national amusement, and in the form of the waltz, is pursued with enthusiastic ardour. Society in Germany is very distinctly separated into the two great classes of the nobility and common people : the former are further divided into the higher and lower nobility; and also into another distmction, that of the old nobility, who must count at least 16 noble ancestors, and of the young or short nobility. The character of the Germans is very military, a quality derived in part from their warlike ancestors, and partly from their country having been the theatre of nearly all the great contests which have been waged in Europe. The music of military bands, and the measured tread of stately soldiers, arc common sounds in the cities of Germany. The ordinary concerns of the Germanic Confederation are entrusted to a federal diet of 17 members, and the making or altering of its fundamental laws, to a general assembly of 70 members, from the various states or members of the confedera- :li' r.u f <' 332 EUUOPK, tion. The sessions aro hold nt Frankfort on the Maync. The members are equal in rights, but Austria presides. The following table gives a general view of the states of iho Germanic Confederacy, with their extent and population. GKRMAN STATES. SUtn, I M(), M. I ri>pulalinii Aiidtria 78,451 1 1 ,h 10,000 Prumiia 70,34!» 10, l(IO,(K)0 Bnvorja !:)I,!i!i7 <),OrO,0(H» Wirt(;nilii'rB I 7,770 1,(:(MI.(M)0 Hanover i|4,7*> 1,0011,000 Saxony 7,'iOO 1,.500,(M)0 nailen .t,HM) J,>J(K),(MIO HesHC-CaaNul 4,3ra U.'>0,(K)0 Hf'RHu-DiirniHtadt 3,(iOO 740,0110 HoKHe-Humliurtt 13S U4,(MMI HoUtein, Slc. (To Den- mark) 3,mil 410.(M10 I.uxumhnrn; (To Belgium) '.2,347 :i().'),000 SaxfiWuiniur l,40H 'JIW.OOO HaxU'ColMirg-Gotlm 1,0'J4 150,000 HaxoAltunburs 401: 114,000 tiaxv-IVIuining«nlIilburg- hansen 875 130,000 Brunswick 1,5141 !UO,OIH> Mcuklenlmrg-Scliwcrin 4,755! 4.50,0(H) Mecklcnburg-Strelitz ... 7US H4,0OU Oldunburg 3,75^1 25'ijom SlalM. lVnff«au Aniinit DnxHau Anlinltlicrnburg Anhnll't'otli'.'n Schwartzbuig — SonderB- hniiHon Hcltwart/.burgKiidolHtadt il<)ht>ii/,(>llorn-lli burg Wuliluck KniphauBun Frankfort liUbcc Brpnien Hamburg Sq. .M. 1 it, 104 303 340 331 1 .V4 44H 117 4'i(l 53 153 453: 430' is !.!•!■ ,-,'1 GKRMANY 333 ync. The ntcs of tbo ion> •MY.\ 3J1 .14H in 4'i 59,00(1 78,W«» W,0(H) M.OOO 3,000 M.OOO 47,000 59,000 150,000 l251,00ol37,000.000 ;r in Germany, the European [Germany; the alicia, formerly ligdom in Italy, [ifory belonging •chv is bounded bv Prussia and Hand, and Sar- of the Church. |.niles. [the Tyrol, and Ire encompassed [along the north- Wtile, especially [ws through the 3t and then from re the Dniester, le lakes are the PIntten-sco and Ncusidlor-scc, in Hungary ; Traun^soo and After- tice, in Austria Proper; Cirknitz, in Carinthia; and (Jarda and Conio, in Lombardy. This country has but a small extent of sen-coast and u limited commerce. It has no foreign colonies ; but the duchies of Tus- cany, Parma, and Modena, in Italy, are dependent states. Trieste is the principal sea-port, and displays considerable commercial activity. Fiume is the inlet to the Hungarian provinces, and Kagusa to Dalmatia. The inland trade of the empire is active and flourishing. Tho Austrian territories abound in various articles both of necessity and luxury; grain of various kinds, wine, cattle, horses, &,c. Tho imports consist mostly of raw materials, as wool, cotton, raw silk, rice, oil, drugs, spices, &c. Tho manufactures are chiefly of thread, cotton, linen, lace, silk-stufllj, stockings, spirituous liquors, wrought-irou, steel and brass; glass, porce- lain, earthenware, &c. The chief mineral productions arc gold, copper, iron, quick- silver or mercury, and salt. The salt-mines of Wi(»liczca in Galicia have been worked for 600 years, but btill appear inex- haustible. They are 1500 feet in depth, and have a great extent under ground, comprising numerous long galleries, halls, chapels, &c. The quicksilver mines of Idria are the richest of the kind in Europe, and yield near a million pounds of quicksilver and cinnabar annually. Tho established religion is the H .^nan Catholic, but general toleration is granted ; and memhor-s ol" the Protestant and Greek churches n\'v. numerous in Huii^ii' Transylvania, and Sclavo- nia, where they enjoy con s id o"*^- bit- privileges. The government is a monaixttiy, nearly absolute, except in some of the states, particularly Hhnngary and Transylvania, where it is limited by constitutional provisions. The principal univerities are those of Vienna, Prai:rii«?> Pest, Lembcrg, Padua, and Pavia. Academies and gymnasinnfcs are numerous. Though Austria can boast of some distinguished names, yet in regard to literature she is greatly behind tho north of Germany. The national educa- tion is extremely deficient, and there are many restraints upon the liberty of the press and freedom of speech. The Austrian army is large, amounting to upward of 270,000 men, and Though respectable for its discipline, has not generally ranked high for efficiency. In time of war the empire can main- tain a military force of 615,000 men. Austria possesses no ad- ▼antages for a navy, yet an armament of about 30 vessels of war has been organized in the Gulf of Venice, and an armed flotilla is maintained on the Danube. 4^ i fr' 'i'i m ■y-m k: '■: y '■> '■■'*■ 334 EUROPE. ¥ Jt^.' « ' ■ ' The inhabitants of the empire belong to several distinct nations, comprising Germans, Poles, Hungarians, Italians, Jews, Gypsies, &c. ; besides several less prominent races, as the Tcheches or Bohemians, the Slawakes in Moravia and Hungary, the Wends in Styria, lUyria, and the Tyrol, with the Croats, Dalmatians, and Morlachians, in the southern provinces. The following statement exhibits the areas in square miles and the population of the different divisions of the Austrian empire : ,; f Austria. • I I Styria... <" J lllyria... I I Tyrol.... c I Bohemia. o [Moravia. Hungary. Total of Hereditary States Sq. M. Fopulation. 14,992 2,031,136 8,531 839,128 1:J,130 1,138,50(5 H,704 770,390 20,872 3,748.301 11,804 1,994,850 78,774 9,059,080 20,188,057 159,823 Croatia Sclavonia Transylvania Dalmatia Galicia Military Frontier . . . Lombardo- Venetian Kingdom Total of the Empire . . Sq. M. 3,750 3,678 22,370 6,498 32,000 12,335 18,534 Population. 614,000 .348,000 2,000,000 329,727 4,297,901 923,315 4,300,000 259,000 33,000,000 The German territories belonging to the Austrian Emperor consist of the archduchy of Austria, Bohemia, Moravia, Styria, lllyria, and Tyrol : these, with Hungary, are known under the appellation of the Hereditary States. Vienna is the capital of the Austrian empire, and the largest city in Germany. It stands on the south side of the Danube, and consists of two distinct parts, the city and the suburbs, which are strongly contrasted in their appearance. The city is meanly built, with narrow, irregular streets, and is surrounded with walls and bastions. The suburbs consist of wide streets, elegant buildings, and beautiful gardens. The Prater is a fine level park, on an island in the Danube, forming a delightful public walk, which is fre- quented by all ranks of people in the summer. The cathedral of St. Stephen is an immense Gothic edifice, with a spire 452 feet high : the painted glass of its windows renders the interior gloomy. The buildings are generally of freestone. There are many excellent libraries, of which the Imperial is the largest, and contains above 300,000 volumes. There are 50 churches, 17 monasteries and nunneries, 5 theatres, and a garrison of 10 or 12,000 men. The citizens are described as a good-natured, hospitable people, much devoted to pleasure and luxurious living. Population, 300,000. Salzburg, in Lower Austria, is situated on a branch of the Inn, in a mountainous country. The neighbourhood produces great quantities of salt. Population, 13,000. Lintz, the capital of Upper Austria, situated on the Danube, is GERMANY. 335 icl nations, 8, Gypsies, Cheches or the Wends tialians, and quare miles he Austrian Sq. M, , 3,750 3,678 22,37C 6,498 32,000 12,335' Fopnlation. 614,000 348,000 2,000,000 329,727 4,297,901 923,315 18,534 4,300.000 1259^.33,000,000 rian Emperor jravia, Styria, 3wn under the ind the largest pf the Danube, suburbs, which B city is meanly [nded with walls I buildings, and irk, on an island Ik, which is fre- The cathedral a spire 452 feet lers the interior Le. There are [l is the largest, tre 50 churches, [a garrison of 10 ', a good-natured, luxurious living. Lnchofthelnn, produces great bn the Danube, is a well-built city ; and its fine square, considerable castle, three monasteries, and bridge of 800 feet long over the Danube, give it a very handsome appearance. It has a considerable imperial manufactory of woollen. Population, 20,000. Gratz, the capital of Styria, is situated on the river Mur, and is a handsome, bustling and prosperous town. It contains many houses which may be called palaces, and ranks third in the here- ditary dominions. Population, 40,000. Its old walls and castle, situated on a high rock, no longer suffice to render it a fortified city. The church of St. Catherine and the monument of Fer- dinand II. are its chief ornaments. Its lyceum has twenty-six professors, and a library of 70,000 volumes. Lay bach, the capital of lllyria, stands about 30 miles from the Gulf of Venice ; it is famous for a congress of European sove- reigns held here in 1820. Population, 12,000. Trieste, seated at the head of the Gulf of Venice, is the greatest sea-port of the Austrian empire: its trade is very active, and extends to the north of Europe and the United States. Its har- bour is large and safe. Most of the European nations have con- suls here. Population, 50,000. Innspruck, the capital of the Tyrol, is situated on the river Inn ; it is an ancient and important town, with 12,000 inhabitants. Hall, farther down on the same stream, flourishes by its large mines of salt. Trent, on the Adige, and near the borders of Italy, is a fine old city, celebrated for the ecclesiastical council held there in 1545-1562, which had so signal an influence on the poli'ical destinies of Europe. Roveredo and Botzen are both considerable towns. Prague, the capital of Bohemia, is a well-built ana flourishing city, situated on the Moldau, over which is an elegant bridge. Its university is the oldest in Germany. Here are 100 churches and chapels, and as many palaces, among which is that of Wal- lenstein, celebrated by the pen of Schiller : the stable of this palace is a magnificent edifice, with stalls for 36 horses, divided by marble pillars and furnished with racks of steel and marble mangers. The city has some manufactures, and the neighbour- hood is fertile and pleasant. Population, 121,000. Brunn and Olmutz, in Moravia, are both strong fortresses, and barriers of the empire. The former, containing 38,000 inhabit- ants, is the seat of government, and has extensive manufactures of fine woollens. Olmutz is a great market for Russian and Hungarian cattle. Iglau, an open town, has considerable manu- factures, and is the greatest thoroughfare in the country. The two last places have each 12,000 inhabitants. Buda, the capital of the kingdom of Hungary, lies on the right \ -^ ' i--*. u> fife -mi' mfX'' % ■■ >. 336 EUROPE. f p.- If: «■ '■''■'" i. ■%: 1; m am bank of the Danube. It is the residence of the palatine, and seat of the supreme government. Population, 38,000. Pest, the finest town in the kingdom, stands on the left bank of the Danube, and is united with Buda by a bridge of boats. It has a university with four faculties, and a library of 50,000 volumes. Population, 60,000. Presburg, on the north bank of the Danube, contains a Catholic college and a Lutheran gymnasium. Popu- lation, 40,000. Debretzin, with 42,000 inhabitants, is, next to Pest, the most important commercial town of Hungary. Szege- din, at the junction of the Theiss with its tributary, the Maros, is a large and strong city, with 30,000 inhabitants, and a flourish- ing trade in wool and tobacco. Schemnitz, Kremnitz, and Neusohl, are the principal mining towns in Hungary. Schemnitz was founded in 745, and has a population of 22,000 inhabitants, one half of whom are em- ployed in the mines. Kremnitz and Neusohl have each about 10,000 inhabitants, the majority of whom are also employed in mining operations. Raab, or Gyoi, at the confluence of the Raab and the Danube, contains 16,000 inhabitants. Kaschau, in the north-east part of Hungary, near the Carpathian mountains, contains 6000 inhabitants. Temeswar is situated on a canal which connects it with the Danube, and is finely built and strongly fortified. Population, 12,000. Tokay, a small town of 5000 inhabitants, situated on the Theiss, is celebrated for its wine, being esteemed the best in Hungary. Mishkohz has an active trade in grain, wine, and leather ; in its vicinity are numerous forges, glass-works, and paper-mills. Population, 30,000. Theresienstadt and Ketskemet, both situ- ated between the Danube and Theiss, are large towns with ex- tensive manufactures of various kinds: the former has 40,000, and the latter 34,000 inhabitants. Hermanstadt, the capital of Transylvania, is surrounded with a double wall, and contains 18,000 inhabitants, an extensive Lu- theran seminary, two public libraries comprising 20,000 volumes, a picture-gallery, and a national museum. Cronstadt, on the most eastern frontier, is a still larger place, containing 27,000 inhabitants, with various manufactures, and enjoying an extensive intercourse with Turkey. Clausenburg, 80 miles north of Her- manstadt, is a large open town, containing three seminaries. Catholic, Luthei'an, and Unitarian, attended by about 1200 stu- dents. Population, 20,000. Carlsburg is a smaller town, de- fended by a strong castle, on a hill above the Maros. Popula- tion, 6,000. Lemberg, the capital of Galicia, is an important city, and car- ries on an extensive commerce. Its interior streets are narrow rtiii f^. GERMANY. 337 itine, and )0. Pest, ink of the It has a ) volumes, le Danube, m. Popu- is, next to y. Szege- le Maros, is i a flourish- jipal mining 5, and has a ,om are em- ! each about employed in e of the Raab schau, in the 11 mountains, d on a canal It and strongly town of 5000 for its wine, nd leather ; in id paper-mills, met, both situ- Lowns with ex- er has 40,000, int city, and car- freets are narrow and old-fashioned, yet it has four handsome suburbs. It contains 52,000 inhabitants, 20,000 of whom are Jews. The frontier town of BrcuV contains 22,000 inhabitants, of whom more than a third are Jews. The other towns- ol' Galicia contain only about 5000 or 6000 inhabitants each. Sambor and Drohobits, on the Dniester, have some manufactures and trade, chiefly car- ried on by Jews. Tarnopol, farther to the north, is tolerably flourishing. Bochnia and Wicliczca, entirely supported by the salt-mines, contain each about 6000 inhabitants. Zara, the capital of Dalmatia, has a good harbour, and is strongly fortified. Population, 7000. Ragusa, situated in the most southern extremity of the Austrian dominions, contains 10,000 inhabitants. It was once the capital of a small republic ; and has suflered greatly from earthquakes PRUSSIA. Prussia was ti< ;ted into a kingdom in 1701, and has at different times aci" ' large accessions of territory, and, from a small and feeble state, has become one of the most powerful mo- narchies of Europe. The kingdom of Prussia comprises two great political divisions, 1st, Prussia Proper, the original territory of the monarchy, and the grand duchy of Posen, formerly be- longing to Poland ; 2d, the German provinces of Brandenburg. Pomerania, Silesia, Saxony, Westphalia, and the Rhine : the two last form a detached western portion, separated from the rest by the dominions of Hanover, Hesse, and Saxony. Prussia has also in Switzerland the small principality of Neufchatel. The eastern division of the kingdom contains 88,000, and the western 19,000 square miles ; total, 107,000. The population amounted in 1740 to 3,000,000 ; in 1790, to 6,000,000, and at present is estimated at 14,000,000. A level surface predominates throughout the Prussian States ; the country abounds in marshes, lakes, and rivers of slow cur- rent. The great mountain tracts, the Hartz, in Saxony, and the Riesengeberg, a branch of the Sudetic chain, in Silesia, f.re near the outskirts of the kingdom. Prussia is a favoured country with regard to water communi- cation in its interior. The Baltic forms a number of bays, or rather lakes, along its coast ; as the Frische, Curische, Putzig, and Stettin Hafs ; and there is a number of navigable rivers, of which the principal are the Niemen, Pregel, Vistula, Oder, Elbe, Weser, ahd the Rhine. There are several useful canals, and 29 lil MM ">^*f!* I2h;=; •; > r ,■4 (•: ' ■. I f t ■I .1 il 338 EUROPE. inany small lakes. The principal islands are Rugen and Use- dom, in the Baltic Sea. The soil in some parts is good, but in general it is by no means fertile, being often sandy and covered with heath. The produc- tions are whea? oats, barley, potatoes, flax, hemp, hops, cattle, sheep, horses, «.vC. The mineral productions are iron, copper, lead, vitriol, alum, salt, coal, and especially amber, of wh.'ch 200 tons are annuellv collected. The commerce of Prussia, though conducted with some advan- tages, both maritime and inland, is in an early stage. The ex- ports consist of the manufactures of the country, grain, wool, timber, pitch, tar, potash, linseed, cattle, horses, &c. The amount is stated at 22 million, and the imports at about 18 million dol- lars. Prussia, though more an agricultural than a trading country, has districts of great activity in manufactures. Silesia and West- phalia have long been noted for their linens. Other fabrics are woollens, hardware, leather, earthenware, glass, paper, tobacco, &c. Cotton-printing works have lately been introduced, and Drewing is a branch of great importance. The annual value of the manufactures is about .35 million dollars. The government of Prussia is a military monarchy, nearly- absolute. There are now assemblies for each province in the kingdom ; but their powers are extremely limited, and their de- bates secret. The religion of the royal family is the Calvinistic ; but there is no restriction in that respect ; all sects being tolerated, and on an equal footing. In 1817, the Lutherans and Calvinists of Prussia formed a union under the name of Evangelical Christians, and they constitute more than one-half the population ; the remainder comprises Catholics, Jews, Moravians, Baptists, Unitarians, 6z;c. The universities are those of Berlin, Halle, Breslaw, Konigs- berg, Bonn, and Griefswalde. Gymnasiiims and other institutions ai'e numerous, and there are upwards of 22,000 common or primary schools, to which all subjects are required by law to send their children after they reach a certain age. There is hardly any country in the world, where the system of public education is so extensive and r^ularly organized. * Prussia is famous for the military discipline of its afmy. The total number of troops under arms in 1815, exceeded 200,000. They have been since somewhat reduced, and at present amount to about 140,000 men. They are recruited, by conscription, from the class of young men between twenty and twenty-five years of age, who are all liable to be called upon for three years' service. The Landwehr consists of all the able-bodied n\en un> ' ■ 'i >n and Use- )y no means The produc- hops, cattle, iron, copper, 3f wl/ch 200 I some advan- ge. The ex- , grain, wool, The amount 8 million dol- iding country, esiaandWest- ler fabrics are paper, tobacco, ntroduced, and annual value of »narchy, nearly province in the iJ, and their de- GERMANY 339 der forty years, if not in the army, and may be called into ser- vice in the event of a war. The Landsturm are those above forty, able to carry arms. The Landwehr and Landsturm amount to 407,000 ; making the whole war establishmeui 547,000 men. Berlin, the capital of Prussia, stands on the river Spree ; with its suburbs it is 12 miles in circumference, and is the finest city in Germany. Its streets are generally broad and straight, adorned with spacious and regular squares and handsome houses built mostly of white freestone. The Linden-strasse or street, one of the handsomest in Eurofie, is planted with lime-trees, and its edi- fices comorise palaces, theatres, churches, &;c., principally of an elegant and classical style of building. The royal palace is a superb structure containing many splendid apartments and the richest service of plate probably belonging to any sovereign in the world. Berlia comprises five separate towns or districts, one of which occupies an island formed by two branches of the Spree. The city is indebted for its chief embellishments to Frederick II., sur- named the Great, who is supposed to have expended annually for a number of years not less than 400,000 dollars in improve- ments. This city has a university, 5 colleges, 7 gymnasia, and 250 other seminaries of learning, with various charitable insti- tutions. The royal library contains 160,000 volumes. It is the centre of learning for the north of Germany, and has manufac- tures of silk, cotton, woollen, porcelain, jewelry, &c. Popula- tion, 258,000. Potsdam, on the Havel, is one of the most elegant cities in the Prussian dominions. It contains a splendid royal palace, and many fine architectural embellishments. It has also a cannon foundery, and manufactures of silk and velvets. Population, 34,000. On a hill in the neighbourhood, stands the palace of Sans Souci, erected by Frederick the Great. Stettin, the capital of Pomerania, near the mouth of the Oder, has a great trade. Population, 25,000. Breslaw, the capital of Silesia, and the second city in Prussia, stands on the Oder. It is well built, strongly fortified, and con- tains a flourishing university. It has manufactures of linen, and an extensive internal trade. Population, 88,000. Magdeburg, the capital of Saxony, on the Elbe, is a handsome city, with a noble palace, an arsenal, and a magnificent gothic cathedral. It has manufactures of silk, woollen, cotton, linen, &,c. Population, 52,000. Munster, the capital of Westphalia, is situated not far from the Ems, and was once the seat of a sovereign bishop. The peace of Munster, concluded here in 1G48, forms one of the great eras ■ ■ >*K '■t? : ' '.if 1 1:" f \m i \ ni" k ■; >, 340 EUROPE. % [ '' '-i* V ■ • 1 ■ :j;: ,: f- ■■ i--v i;-ii |t::.:. of European history. Population, 20,000. Cologne, on the Rhine, is one of the oldest cities in Europe. It has a great number of ancient churches. The cathedral is an immense gothic pile, founded in the 13th century, but yet unfinished. The city has a decayed look. Tt has manufactures of silk, linen, woollen, lace, and thread, and is f ' Srated for its Cologne water, of which it exports annually 8t^ or 90,000 flasks. Population, 71,000. Coblentz, at the junction of the Rhine and Moselle, is a well- built city, with considerable trade, and some manufactures. It has a bridge of boats over the Rhine, and one of stone over the Moselle. Population, 25,000. Posen, on a branch of the Oder, is a compactly built and strongly fortified town. Population, 25,000. Konigsberg, on the Pregel, is seven miles in circumference, and contains many elegant buildings, and an university of high repu- tation. Part of the town stands on an island in the river. It is a place of considerable trade. Population, 70,000. Dantzic, on the Vistula, near the southern shore of the Baltic, has a good harbour, and was once the chief town of the Hanseatic league. The houses are high and the streets crooked. It has much commerce and internal trade, exporting hemp, flax, linen, timber, potash, &c. It has a great annual fair in July and Au- gust, which lasts six weeks. Population, including the military, 65,000. Aix-la-Chapelle, once the capital of the German empire, is fa- mous for its warm baths. Many parts of it are elegant, and it has manufactures of cloth and needles. Population, 37,000. Dusseldorf, on the Rhine, is a handsome modern city, with con- siderable trade and manufactures. Population, 27,000. Halle is a flourishing city on the Saale. It is celebrated for its univer- sity and literary institutions. It has also many manufactures. Population, 20,000. Frankfort, on the Oder, is a rich and hand- some town. Its three great annual fairs, and manufactures of woollen, silk, and leather, make it a place of considerable trade. Population, 18,000. BAVARIA. X This kingdom is bounded north by Hesse Cassel, the Saxon duchies, and the kingdom of Saxony ; east and south by Austria, and west by Wirtemberg and Hesse Darmstadt. It lies in two distinct territories, of which the smallest, separated about forty miles from the other, is situated on the west side of the Rhine. It contains 81,997 square miles, and 4,080,000 inhabitants. GERMANY. 341 ; the Rhine, number of gothic pile, he city has ooUen, lace, of which it ion, 71,000. le, is a well- factures. It one over the the Oder, is a tion, 25,000. nference, and ofhighrepu- B river. It is of the Baltic, the Hanseatic )oked. It has np, flax, linen, i July and Au- ,g the military, 1 empire, is fa- elegant, and It lation, 37,000. city, with con- J7,000. Halle for its univer- manufactures. rich and hand- .lanufactures of fsiderable trade. Bavaria is watered chiefly by the Danube and its numerous head streams : the northern part is traversed by the Mayne, and the western by the Rhine. The Lake of Constance lies partly within this territory, and there are some smaller lakes. Much of the soil is unproductive from its ruggedness and marshy quality, and a considerable part of the country is covered with forests. The mountains contain quarries of marble, and mines of quicksilver, of iron, and copper. Wine, brandy, and beer are made to some extent. Fruit is raised in great quantities. Hops and flax are likewise cultivated. There are some manufactures of woollt . cloth, but this branch of industry is much less active than formerly. Bavaria is a constitutional monarchy with a national assembly, which consists of two chambers. Every citizen enjoys perfect equality in the eyes of the law. The army amounts to 53,898 men. Education has been of late years very generally diflused, and the institutions of learning are in a flourishing condition. The Catholic is the established religion of the country. Munich, the capital, is seated in a plain on the river Iser. It is a well-built city, and many of its edifices are very splendid. It has an university, a library of 400,000 volumes, and a gallery of paintings ranked among the finest in Europe. Population, 80,000. Ratisbon, on the Danube, is built in the form of a cres- cent, and is strongly fortified. Population, 26,000. Augsburg was founded by the Romans in the reign of Augus- tus. The public buildings are magnificent, and the city is one of the handsomest in Germany. Population, 32,000. Nurern- burg has large manufactures of various kinds. It is famous for its toys, which afford amusement to children in almost all quar- ters of the world. Watches, brass, and globes were invented in this city. Population, 40,000. Bamberg is a fine city, with a magnificent castle. Population, 20,000. Wurtzburg, on the Mayne, has a large trade in wine. Population, 20,000. Furth, Bayreuth, Amberg and Passau, are important towns. Deux Ponts or Zweybrucken, (i. e. two bridges,) is noted for its valuable editions of the Greek and Latin classics, formerly pub- lished here, called the Bipont editions from the word Bipons, the Latin name of the town. Spire, situated on the west bank of the Rhine, contains 8000 inhabitants. This city was frequently the seat of the German diet ; and here, in 1529 the Reformers enter- ed a protest against certain proceedings of the emperor, which procured for them the name of Protestants. Both these cities are situated in that division of Bavaria which lies west of the river Rhine. :' 29* :m Y ' ■ IP -1; ft'':''' ■'■■- I n w ^^^^^H «, i ■ '} ^^^^H ''^ " ^^^K '' ' f ^^■'^, • , ..'* m- ;■ ,. '1 W;; ■ ■ r ! -1 ^B'ri ';. "-: ■ . ' 'i' P' It ■Fi ''' ■ '1 kI ' ' 1 if-: ■ : ■ -J |FV nil ■ J " . 1 M- ■■■ ■r"i< '. '■ ■ , 1 1'^' I ■ |C; ll:' 342 EUROPE. KINGDOM OF SAXON V. This kingdom is bounded north by Prussia, south by Austria, south'West by Bavaria, and west by Reuss and Saxe-Altenburg. It contains 7200 square miles, and 1,500,000 inhabitants, it is watered by the Elbe, Mulda, and some other streams. Saxonv has lost its principal agricultural provinces, and little is raised m the kingdom except grain. There are upwards of two millions of sheep in this state, the wool of which is largely ex- ported, and is highly esteemed for its fineness. Manufactures are active, and employ three-fifths of the population. Trade is flour- ishing, and is much facilitated by the Elbe and its tributaries. Saxony is a constitutional monarchy. Tne army amounts to about 10,000 men. The electorate of Saxony was raised to a kingdom in 1806, but its limits were much reduced by the con- gress of Vienna, in 1815. Dresden, the capital, stands on the Elbe. It is elegantly built; the houses are all of freestone, and nearly all of the same height. It has numerous palaces and public buildings, beautiful in archi- tecture, and magnificently furnished. This city is called the Ger- man Florence : it has a gallery of paintings, inestimable in value; many establishments for the fine arts and for education ; a royal library with above 250,000 volumes, and three other public libra- ries. The city is strongly fortified. Population, 70,000. Leipzic is one of the most important cities in Germany. Here are held, yearly, three great fairs, which draw together a vast concourse of purchasers. The books sold at these fairs are valued at 1 ,000,000 dollars annually, and the other commodities at about 16,000,000. Various manuuctures are carried on here ; in par- ticular, those of gold, silver, silk, woollen, and linen yarn. Leip- :zic has been the scene of many sieges and battles : the two most memorable are the victory gained by Gustavus Adolphus of Swe- den, over the Austrians, in 1641, and that of the allies, over Napoleon, in 1813. Population, 40,000. Chemnitz has large manufactures of cotton and woollen cloth, hosiery, and silk hand- kerchiefs. Population, 16,000. Freyberg, on a branch of the Mulda, is a famous mining town. It stands on a lofty site, and is completely undermined by galleries and caverns. Population, 12,000. Bautzen is celebrated for a bloody battle fought near it in 1813. Population, 12,000. Zittau is noted for its manufactures of linen, Plauen for its cotton and cotton-printing works, and Meissen for its porcelain. These three last towns have respec- tively 8000, 7000, and 5000 inhabitants. ./is GERMANY. 343 ■ •pi by Austria, j-AUenburg. abitants. It »ms. :es, and little wards of two >s largely ex- lufactures are rrade is flour- ts tributaries, y amounts to as raised to a ;d by the con- jlegantly built; le same height, lutiful in archi- called the Ger- mable in value; ication; a royal ler public libra- 70,000. ermany. Here together a vast i fairs are valued Uodities at about on here; in par- len yarn. Leip- .s: the two most dolphus of Swe- • the allies, over Unitz has large y, and silk hand- a branch of the a lofty site, and ns. Population, kught near it in fits manufactures Inting works, and vns have respec- KINGDOM OF HANOVER. This kingdom is bounded north by the North Sea, Holstein, and Mecklenburg ; south by Prussia and Brunswick ; and west by Holland. It contains 14,720 square miles, and 1,600,000 in- habitants. The Hartz mountains occupy a portion of territory in the south, detached from the main body of the kingdom ; other- wise the whole country is an immense plain, diversified here and there by sand-hills, sterile heaths, and barren moors. The Elbe washes the north-eastern boundary, and the Weser, Leine, AUer, and Ilmenau, flow through diflferent parts of the country. The mineral products are various. Gold, silver, copper, lead, iron, zinc, marble, slate, lime-stone, coal, &c., are produced here. The mines of the Hartz are rich in silver, and aflbrd annually 1,200,000 dollars, besides some gold. The salt-springs are also |)roductive. This country does not raise suflicient grain for its own subsist- ence, and in some parts the land is so poor that numbers of the inhabitants leave the country annually for Holland, in quest of employ ment. The articles of cultivation are various sorts of grain, hops, flax, potatoes, &c. On the heaths of Luneberg, considera- ble numbers of bees are reared. The manufactures consist of linens from flax, coarse damasks, yarn, silver plate, gold and sil- ver lace, jewelry, amber, and saddlery. The internal trade is assisted by four annual fairs at Hanover, and two at Osnaburg, where are sold the commodities purchased at the fairs of Bruns- wick, Leipzic, and Frankfort. The chief exports are horses, cat- tle, lead, linens, salt, oats, barley, iron, copper, peat, timber, &c. Hanover is a constitutional monarchy, and has a general as- sembly consisting of two chambers. From the year 1814 until 1837, this kingdom was ruled by a governor general, appointed by the king of Great Britain ; but on the death of William IV. the crown of Hanover devolved on Ernest Augustus, Duke of Cumberland, his eldest brother, and fourth son of George III, late king of England. The army amounts to 13,000 men. Hanover, the capital, stands on the river Leine, in the midst of a sandy plain. It is built in the form of a half-moon, and has several handsome streets. Many of the houses are very ancient, and the date of their erection is always marked upon them. In those of 1565, each story projects over the one below it, and all are embellished with confused mixtures of medallions, Pagan dei- ties, warriors, and verses from the Psalms. The electoral palace is an elegant structure of hewn stone. The public library has 24,000 volumes. Population, 28,000. ;«■ }' ■ 844 EUROPE. Gottingcn, on tho Lcino, is famous for its university, which has one of tho bust libraries in Europe, containing 3U0,0()() volumes. Its botanic garden, observatory, collection of natural history, &c., are all highly valuable. Population, 9000. Emden, at the mouth of the Ems, is tho chief sea-port of thu kingdom. Its commerce is very active, and it employs 300 ves- sels in the herring fishery. Population, 12,000. Osnaburg, on a branch of the Ems, is a considerable seaport, famous for the manufacture of coarse linen called Osnaburgs. Population,! 0,000. Luneburg, on the Ilmenau, has an ancient castle, and considera- ble trade in salt and horses. Population, 12,000. W ■•: KINGDOM OF WIRTEMBERG. This kingdom is bounded north-east by Bavaria ; south by the lake of Constance ; south-west, west, north-west, and north, by Baden. It contains 7770 square miles, and 1 ,600,000 inhabitants. It is watered by the Neckar and Danube, with their several head streams. The soil is very fertile. The minerals are silver, copper, iron, cobalt, sulphur, coal, limestone, &c. Warm baths and medicinal springs are numerous, and those of Heilbron are particularly celebrated. Wirtemberg produces great supplies of grain of different kinds. Flax and hemp are raised, and the mountains are covered with vines which produce a rich and wholesome wino called Neckar. Cherries are cultivated extensively in some parts, for manufac- turing the strong liquor called Kirschwasser. A singular, yet considerable branch of industry, is the feeding of snails, millions of which are fattened in the neighbourhood of Ulm during the autumn, and exported to Vienna and Italy. Manufactures are not numerous ; but some cloth and lace are made in a few of the towns ; and there are many large distilleries and oil-mills. The government is a constitutional monarchy. The legislative body consists of two chambers, one of the nobility, and the other electoral. The army amount^ to 5943 men. Stuttgard, the capital, is situated near the Neckar. It is indif- ferently built, but contains a magnificent royal palace ; an acade- my for painting, sculpture, and architecture ; a large opera-house and theatre. It is surrounded by a wall, flanked with towers. The suburbs are large and handsome. The seminaries of learn- ing are numerous and respectable: the royal library has 200,000 volumes, and is remarkable for its collection of bibles, compris- ing 8250 copies, in sixty-eight languages. The inhabitants manii- GERMANY. 315 , which has volumes, story, &c., •port of thu ys 30i> ves- snaburg, on lous for the lion,lO,000. d considera- south by the nd north, by inhabitants, their several als are silver, Warm baths ■ Heilbron are lifferent kinds. covered with :alled Neckar. for manufac- L singular, yet nails, millions Im during the jufactures are in a few of the jil-mills. The legislative and the other ir. It is indif- ,ce ; an acade- ;e opera-house [ with towers, laries of learn- y has 200,000 li'bles, compris- labitants manu- facture silks, hosiery, and ribands. Population, 31,000. Ulm, on the Danube, at the head of navigation for large vessels, hns the largest cathedral in Gp'-many, with five spires, and an organ with 2952 pipes. It has some commerce by the river. Popu- lation, 12,000. Keutlingcn with 10,000, and Tubingen with 7000 inhabitants, are the other chief towns. GRAND DUCHY OF BADEN. This territory is bounded north by Hesse Darmstadt, east by Wirtemberg, south by Switzerland, and west by France. It contains 5800 square miles and 1,200,000 inhabitants. Baden consists chiefly of an extensive fertile plain, bounded on the east by the mountainous range of the Black Forest. The Rhine washes the western border, and some of its tributaries pass through this country. The Danube rises in the southern part. The Lake of Constance forms a part of the south-eastern boundary. The soil is good and vegetation luxuriant. There are mines of silver and iron, and quarries of freestone and marble. Mineral springs and hot baths are very numerous. In the city of Baden there are 26 hot baths, some of which are scalding hot : all of them spring out of rocks of alum, salt, and sulphur. Grain and fruits of various kinds are cultivated, but wine is the chief product. The government is constitutional, and the sovereignty hereditary. The army amounts to 11,566 men. Carlsruhe, the capital, is three miles from the Rhine. It is one of the finest cities in Germany. All the streets diverge in straight lines from the castle in the centre. The houses are regularly built. The public library has 70,000 volumes. Th« gardens of the grand duke are very handsome. Population, 20,000. Manheim, on the Rhine, is regularly built in squares, and with houses all of the same height. It has a magnificent castle, 750 feet in length, and a library of 70,000 volumes. A bridge of boats here crosses the Rhine. Population, 21,000. Heidelberg, on the Neckar, is famous for an enormous tun containing 600 hogsheads. Its university is one of the oldest and most respectable in Germany. Population, 10,000. Frey- berg has a large Catholic university and a fine Gothic minster. Population, 10,000. Baden has a pleasant neighbourhood, and is much visited for the baths already mentioned. Population, 4,000. Constance, on the lake of that name, is surrounded by a rich wine district. Population, 5000. ■ ,1' 'p < '■•1'' J I v y.f m < > 346 EUROPE. HESSIAN STATES. f. T The Hessian States comprise tho Electorate of Ilcsse Cassel, the Grand Duchy of Hesse Darmstadt, and the Landgraviate of Hcssc Homburg. They arc situated on both sides of the river Mavno in several separate portions. These states have nomi- nally a limited, but m fact an arbitrary, government, and they are much less improved than some other parts of Germany. In Hesse Casscl, only the oldest sons of clergymen, and the sons of noblemen, counsellors, and public officers, arc allowed to receive a liberal education. More attention has been paid of late to the instruction of the people, and seminaries have been established here, as in most parts of Germany, for the education of teachers. Agriculture and manufactures are generally in a low state. Hesse Cassel. — This state is surrounded by the territories of Hanover, the Saxon Duchies, and Hesse Darmstadt. It con- tains 4352 square miles and 650,000 inhabitants, most of whom are Protestants. It is to some extent a mountainous country, but is intersected by fertile valleys. Many parts of the moun- tains are covered with forests. Gold, silver, copper, lead, iron, alum, sulphur, coal, marble, &c. are found here, and salt springs and mineral waters abound. The agricultural productions are grain, fruit, wine, flax, and hemp. There are few manufactures except linen. The military force is 18,000 men, of whom 2000 are in regular pay, the rest are only called out during part of the year. Hesse no longer carries on that extensive tratfic of mercenary troops which for- merly brought in large sums of money, and rendered the elector, perhaps, the richest individual in Europe. Cassel, the capital, stands on the river Fulda. It has several splendid public places and elegant buildings, with a library of 70,000 volumes. Population, 26,000. Marburg has a university and a library of 56,000 volumes. Population, 7000. Hanau is a regular and handsome town near the Mayne. Population, 12,000. Fulda has '^ population of 8000. Hesse Darmstadt. — This Grand Duchy consists of two distinct territories, lying north and south of the river Mayne. Its area is 3600 square miles, and the population 740,000. The country is mountainous, and is watered by the Rhine, Mayne, and other streams. The rearing of cattle is the chief branch of husbandry : the agricultural products are similar to those of the south of Germany. The army amounts to 8481 men. The prevailing religion is Lutheran. CiERMANY. 847 sse Cassel, graviate of ,f the river have nomi- t, and they rmany. In the sons of 3(1 to receive f late to the I established I of teachers. V state, he territories [adt. It con- nost of whom lous country, of the moun- 3r, lead, iron, nd salt springs ine, flax, and The military r pay, the rest ;sse no longer )ps which for- red the elector, It has several ith a library of las a university 100. Hanau la B. Population, onsists of two river Mayne. [740,000. The 1 Rhine, Mayne, Ichief branch ot lo those of the ^21 men. The Darmstadt, the capital, is well built in the more nirjdern part, and has a gymnasium with a library of 90,000 volumoH. The town is fortified with very extensive works. In the neighbour- hood of the town is a magnetic rock. Population, '^0,000. Mentz, or Mavence, on the Rhino, a little below its junction with the Mayne, pleasantly situated, but indiflbrently built : it has a bridge of boats over the Rhine, a library of 90,000 volumes, a fine museum of Roman antiquities, and a large cathedral. The fortifications are of great strength and extent, and are held by the Germanic Diet as one of the bulwarks of the empire. Hero is still shown the house in which Faust and Guttcmburg mn Ic their first essays in the art of printing. Population, 28,000. Worms, long an important town, exhibits only the ruins of its former state, and is almost choked with rubbish, the fruit of sue ccssive desolating wars. It has still the remains of some tine edifices, and a good fruit and corn market. Population, 7000. Offenbach, a thriving little town, is the only place in the duchy where manufactures flourish. Hesse Homuuro. — This Landgraviate consists of two distinct parts, separated about 50 miles from each other. It contains 138 square miles and 24,000 inhabitants. Homburg, the chief town, has a population of 3000. The inhabitants arc mostly Protestants. The Saxon States comprise the Grand Duchy of Saxe Weimar t and the Duchies of Saxe-Cohurg-Gotha, Saxe-Mein* ingen-Hildburghauaen, and Saxe Altenburg. The government ot these states is more free than that of the Hessian states, and education is more attended to. Agriculture and mining, which form the chief employments of the people, are conductec ^ith much skill ; and manufactures are somewhat advanced. Tue Prince of Saxe Weimar is distinguished as a patron of learning, and is the most liberal and popular of all the German princes, and was the first of them to give his subjects a reprt tentative constitution ; and every degree of freedom is allowed to the press that the great monarchs will permit. The Grand Duchy of Saxe Weimar con.tains 1408 square miles and 232,000 inhabitants^ The chief rivers are the Saale and Werra. Grain, fruit, and flax, are cultivated. The govern- ment is a constitutional monarchy. The army consists of 2164 men. The prevailing religion is Lutheran. The constitution was established in 1816. Weimar, the capital, stands in a fertile valley watered by the Um. The city has a high literary reputation , and has been par- ticularly distinguished as the residence of Goethe, Schiller, and tw "•^■^^ ■•; V 348 EUROPE. IT. 1 J V ■^^ '■ USf'S.i, iff Ti '' other eminent writers. Weimar has a public library of 120,000 volumes, a drawing academy, and a theatre, considered one of the best in Germany. Population, 10,000. Jena, on the Saale, stands in a pleasant spot surrounded by hills; it is a walled and well-built town, with large suburbs, and contains a ducal palace, and a university which is the chief sup- port of the place. Population, 6000. Eisenach has consi- derable manufactures. Population, 9000. Saxe-Coburg-Gotha has been lately formed by the union of these two branches, on the extinction of that of Gotha. The city of Gotha, the capital, containing about 12,000 inhabitants, is the channel of a considerable trade connected with the fair of Leipzic. It is somewhat a learned city ; containing a library of 60,000 volumes, with valuable manuscripts. This territory has been raised to distinction by the good fortune of one of its younger members, now king of the Belgians. Square miles, 1024 ; popu- lation, 156,000. Saxe-Meiningen-Hildhurghausen, situated principally on the Werra, is enriched by mines of salt at Salzungen, and by some of coal, iron, and cobalt. Area, 875 square miles; population, 130,000. Its principal towns are Meiningen and Hildburg- hausen, with about 5000 inhabitants each. The first is the capital. The little duchy of Saxe-Altenburg consists of two detached portions, separated from each other by the territories of Saxe- Weimar and the Reuss princes, and has an area of 491 square miles, with 114,000 inhabitants. The capital, Altenburg, is a considerable town with about 12,000 inhabitants. Mecklenburg is a territory, situated in the north part of Ger- many, lying north-east of Hanover. It consists to a great extent of lake and forest, and the cultivation is comparatively rude, yet a variety of gentle hills gives it a picturesque aspect. It is divided into the two grand duchies of Schwerin and Strelitz. They are both limited monarchies, and the inhabitants are principally Lutherans. Mecklenburg Schwerin is the most extensive of the two states, and contains an area of 4755 square miles, with 450,000 inha- bitants. Schwerin, the capital, is a pretty considerable town, with a handsome palace, situated on a lake, and containing a good gallery of pictures. Population, 12,000. Rostock is a larger town, with 20,000 inhabitants, situated on the Baltic, and exporting grain to a considerable extent. Wismar, on the Bal- tic, has a good harbour and considerable trade. Population, 10,000. m re W U 1 bu H so, 1 an ,f 120,000 red one of •ounded by iburbs, and } chief sup- has consi- he union of rotha. The inhabitants, \i the fair of ; a library of territory has )f its younger ,l024;popu- sipally on the nd by some of I ; population, ind Hildburg- le first is the ^ two detached :ories of Saxe- of 491 square Atenburg, is a rthpartof Ger- sts to a great comparatively ;uresque aspect. Hn and Strelitz. [inhabitants are GERMANY 349 Mecklenburg Strelitz lies to the eastward of the preceding division, and has an area of 768 square miles, with a population of 84,000. Its capital, New Strelitz, is but little more than a large village : it contains 6000 inhabitants. Old Strelitz is only a mile distant from the former, and is a small place with a popu- lation of about 3000. The duchy of Brunswick is rather a productive territory, sur- rounded by Prussia and Hanover, and comprises five distinct portions. The government was nearly absolute till very lately, when the people, by a violent change of dynasty, effected lor themselves a re{>resentative constitution. Area, in square miles, 1514 ; population, 250,000. The city of Brunswick is a large place, in proportion to the state, containing a population of about 36,000. It is a consi- derable seat of the inland trade of Germany, its fairs ranking next to those of Frankfort and Leipzic. VVolfenbuttel, about seven miles south of Brunswick, contains a very large and valuable library, considered one of the richest in Europe : it com- prises 200,000 printed volumesj and 10,000 manuscripts. Popu- lation of the town, 8000. The Grand Duchy of Oldenburg is distinguished by the high rank of its princes, connected by family alliances with all the great powers of the north, particularly Russia. The duke has possessions in different parts of the north of Germany, but the main portion of them is situated on the west side of the Weser, and nearly surrounded by the territories of Hanover. It is a flat, marshy district, but abounding in rich pastures, and somewhat resembling Holland. Population, 251,500; area, 2752 square miles ; government absolute. The capital, Oldenburg, is situated on the river Ilunte, a tributary of the Weser, which is navigable by small vessels. Inhabitants, 8000. Nassau is a duchy situated on the banks of the Rhine and the Mayne : it produces those valuable wines. Hock and Bleschert, which distinguish this part of Germany : it does not contain, however, any towns of importance. Wisbaden, the capital, much visited on account of its fifteen warm springs, has a population of 8000. At Niederselters, two million bottles are annually filled with the celebrated Seltzer water. Population of the duchy, 356,000 ; area, 2164 square miles. The duchies of Anhalt are situated on the Elbe, and sur- rounded by the territories of Prussia ; they have a population of 136,000 divided between the three branches of Dessau, Bern- burg, and Cotken. The family is ancient, and has produced some men of eminence. The capitals of the respective duchies are small towns of the same name. 30 U u t lifi 'tl . i f^^m 350 EUROPE. W It;:':' f^^ '^\ p.. m ■e 'ill' i- .■'i (fi ^!!'J I ;t;v: I'' The German Principalities are ten small states, most of which are contiguous to, or enclosed by the dominions of Prussia. They are Schvartzburg-Rudolstadt, Schwartzhurg- Sender a- hausen, Reuss-Greitz, Reuss-Schlcitz, Lippe-Detmold, Lippe- Schauenburg, Hohenzollern-Sigmaringeai Hohenzollern-Hech- ingertf Waldcck, and Lichtenstein. Schwartzburg belongs to a very ancient house, and is divided into the two branches o[ Schwartzburg-Rudohtadt and Schwartz- burg- Sander shausen, containing in all about 112,000 subjects, of which the first has 60,000, and the other 52,000. The ter- ritories are detached from each other, and about 25 miles apart, Rudolstadt being very nearly surrounded by the Saxon States, and Sondershausen entirely enclosed by the province of Prussian Saxony. Rudolstadt and Sondershausen are the capitals. The territory of Reuss is divided between Reuss-Greitz and Reuss-SchleitZt the elder and younger lines: the former has 25,000 subjects, and the latter, which is subdivided into the several branches of Reuss-Schleitz,Reuss-Lobenstein-Ebersdorf, and Reuss-Koestriz, has 59,000. This family dates its origin from the year 950. The principal town is Gera, called in Germany Little Leipzic, on account of its trade, which is considerable. The capitals are Greitz and Lobenstein. lAppe-Detmold and Lippe- Schauenburg are situated to the south of Hanover, and form two distinct territories, about ten miles apart. A former prince of Lippe-Schauenburg made a distinguished figure in the service of Portugal. Their inhabitants amount to 104,000. Detmold and Buckeburg are the capitals. There are two princes of Hohcnzollern, Sigmaringen and Hechingen, having between them 55,000 people. Their ter- ritories are situated between Baden and Wirtemberg. The capitals are Sigmaringen and Hechingen. Waldeck, composed of two separate districts, situated about 30 miles apart from each other, derives almost its sole importance from the mineral bnths of Pyrmont, which are among the most celebrated in Europe. Population, 56,000 ; area, 459 square miles. Arolsen is the capital. Lichtenstein borders on Switzerland and the Tyrol. It con- tains 5550 inhabitants and 53 square miles of territory. Vadutz is the capital ; the government is constitutional, and the inhabit- ants are Catholics. The Prince usually resides at Vienna. The Lilliputian lordship of Kniphausen was recognized as an independent state by an act of the Germanic Diet in 1826. It is situated within the territories of the Duke of Oldenburg. Population, 3000; area, 17 square miles. M GERMANY. 351 es, most of 3 of Prussia. rg.Sonders- lold, Lippe- ollern-Hech- md is divided nd Schwartz- 000 subjects, 30. Theter. 5 miles apart, Saxon States, ^ce of Prussian capitals. iss-Greit% and he former has ivided into the f,ein-Ehersdorf, dates its origin Gera, called in trade, which is jnstein. situated to the itories, about ten lenburg made a Their inhabitants ,re the capitals. \igmaringen and 'aple. Their ter. irtemberg. The THE FREE CITIES OF GERMANY. Hamburg, Luhec, Bremen, and Frankfort are small republics, which constitute what are denominated the free cities of Germany ; they comprise the remnant of the Hanse towns, or Hanseatic League, a confederation that was formed about 600 years ago. In time this alliance increased to such an extent that it comprised 85 commercial cities and towns, and grew so powerful that by the influence of its wealth and the terror of its arms it ruled for a time a great part of Northern Europe. It continued in existence almost 400 years, and was dissolved in the year 1630. The territories of Hamburg comprise several detached portions, the chief part of which is situated on the north bank of the Elbe, about 70 miles from the sea. Area, 134 square miles; popula- tion, 150,000. The government is vested in a self-elected senate of 28 members, who, however, are checked by popular councils, chosen by all who have property, to a certain amount, within the city. Hamburg is the principal corr.mercial city in Germany, and IS, after London and Liverpool, the most important in Europe. Its trade was almost annihilated during the wars of the French revolution : since that time, however, it has greatly revived, though not to its former extent. The manufactures of this city are various, but chiefly comprise cotton and linen fabrics, and refined sugar. Hamburg is not a well-built town, the streets being, in general, narrow and irregular, and the houses constructed of brick or wood. The churches of St. Michael's and St. Peter's have elegant spires, and the new exchange is handsome, but there is no edifice particularly distinguished for its splendour. Popula- tion, 125,000. Cuxhaven, at the mouth of the Elbe, is a little village belonging to Hamburg, whence regular packets and steam- vessels sail to Amsterdam and Harwich. The republic of Lubec comprises several small detached districts, bounded by the Danish and Mecklenburg territories. Area, 122 square miles ; inhabitants, 47,000. The city, though less important than formerly, is still a place of considerable trade. It is situated on the river Trave, eight miles from the Baltic, and contains 26,000 inhabitants. The republic of Bremen consists of a small territory, lying on the river VVeser, about 50 miles from the sea, and surrounded by the dominions of Hanover. The government is administered by four burgomasters and a senate, all of whom are chosen for life. Area, 72 square miles ; population, 59,000. U f< 1! 1 352 EUROPE. i' [• *'■■■' .'f .. f [■ I ^f!:^ i: I. .1 ■ ■" ■■ ;.* Hi Iflj; |p|:; ■'III 11 Mm 'I iil w ml m - fv The city of Bremen, situate'! on both sides of the Weser, 50 miles from the sea, is enriched by the commerce of that im- portant river, down which are brought the productions of interior Germany, and it also carries on a considerable foreign trade. The old town consists of narrc streets, bordered by high gloomy houses, built in the fashion of the middle ages ; but there is a new town in a much more elegan* sty'j. Population, 40,000. Frankfort, the seat of the Germanic Diet, stands on both sides of the river Mayne, and is one of the most important towns in Germany. It has two annual fairs, in March and September, which draw hither many merchants from every country of Europe. The chief articles of traffic are cottons, woollens, and books. The city was once strongly fortified, but the defences have been converted into public walks. The buildings are indifferent. The whole territory of Frankfort comprises 113 square miles, and 55,000 inhabitants, the chief part of whom belong to the city. The government is republican, and the inhabitants are mostly Protestants. The German Territories of Denmark, Belgium, Prussia, and Austria. The duchies of Holstein and Lauenhurg lie north of the river Elbe, and form the most northern part of Germany : they belong to Denmark, and comprise an area of 3691 square miles, with 410,000 inhabitants. Kiel, Altona, and Gluckstadt, are the chief towns. The German duchy of Luxemburg, forming the most southern part of Belgium, belongs to that kingdom. The capital city, Luxemburg, contains 10,000 inhabitants. It is one of the strongest places in Europe, and one of the fortresses of the Ger- manic Confederation. Area of the duchy, 2347 square miles, and 305,00a inhabitants. Prussian Germany includes the provinces of the Rhine, West- phalia, Saxony, Brandenburg, Pomerania, and Silesia. The two first named provinces form a distinct division, separated from the others by the territories of Hanover, Brunswick, and Hesse Cassel; altogether they comprise about two thirds of the territory belonging to the kingdom of Prussia, with an area of 70,549 square miles, and 10,160,000 inhabitants. German Austria comprehends the archduchy of Austria, the duchy of Styria, Bohemia, Moravia, Tyrol, and the duchies of Carniola and Carinthia, or Illyria. These territories comprise about one-third of the empire of Austria, and contain an area of 78,451 square miles, and 11,840,000 inhabitants. Weser, 50 jf that im- IS of interior reign trade, tiigh gloomy ip.re is a new ),000. on both sides tant towns in d September, y country of woollens, and t the defences buildings are comprises 113 part of whom )lican, and the n, Prussia, and ie north of the Germany : they bf 3691 square and Gluckstadt, he most southern The capital city, t is one of the esses of the Ger- (47 square miles, hhe Rhine, West- Ind Silesia, l^e an, separated from swick, and Hesse irds of the territory [n area of 70,549 hv of Austria, the Lnd the duchies ot Lritories comprise [contain an area ot ants. SWITZERLAND. SWITZERLAND. 353 Switzerland is a mountainous region, situated in the centre of Europe, and occupying the country lying north and west of the great range of the Alps. It is remarkable for the grandeur of its natural features and scenery, ^jind for the freedom of its political institutions. This territory forms a confederacy, com- posed of 22 cantons, each of which is an independent republic ; but, for mutual security, they are united together, and governed by a geoBral diet, and are known as the Helvetic Confederacy, or Helvetic Republic. Switzerland is bounded north by Baden and Wirtemberg, east by Austria, south by Sardinia and the Lombardo- Venetian king- dom, and west by France. Its length, from east to west, is 200 miles; its breadth, from north to south, 130; and its superficial extent is about 15,000 square miles. Population, 2,000,000. Two distinct ranges of mountains bound this region. The chain of the Jura stretches from south-west to north-east, and separates Switzerland from France. The Alps form a more extensive chain, and run nearly parallel to the Jura, with numerous branches, known among geographers by the names of the Pennine, Lepontine, and Rhcetian Alps. These vast mountains divide this country from Italy. They exhibit Inaccessible peaks, covered with snow ; eternal and boundless wastes of ice ; valleys sur- rounded by immense precipices ; in contrast with wooded and undulated slopes, vine-clad fields, and bright patches of vegetation. Mont Blanc, the highest summit in Europe, overlooks the vale of Chamouni, in Savoy ; a district not comprised within the political limits of Switzerland, but which pertains to it in a geo- graphical character. This mountain is 15,668 feet in height : it is capped with eternal snow, and the approach to the top is so full of difficulty and hazard that it has never been ascended except in a few instarjces. Some of the i>ri;icipal rivers in Europe take their rise in this country, and flow from it in nearly all directions. The Rhine, the Rhone, and the Inn, are the most important; and the Tecino, and other Italian rivers, rise on its borders. The Aar is the chief stream that has its course wholly in Switzerland. This country is noted for the number of its romantic and pic- turesque lakes. The waters of the lake of Geneva, or Leman, are l)eautifully transparent, and the surrounding scenery has long been celebrated for its magnificence. It is 46 miles in length, 1000 feet deep, and is elevated 1230 feet above the level of the sea. The lake of Constance is 45 miles long and about ten 30* §■' if .t i •A ! ■ • I W«P 351 EUROPE. :: % W ■41 ■ U (. ^' •;]■ ,K i- li'. I f- !'!! '■ 'I 11.^- ifp^f'^ '■i*j wide. Its banks are fertile and abound with towns and villagc3. The lakes of Neufchafol, Lucerne, Zurich, Lugano, and Thun, are smaller, and are all elevated ut considerable heights abovt; the level of the ocean. The general surface of Switzerland exceeds, in rugged sub- limity, any other portion of Europe. The nature of tisa couni i-y presents numerous obstacles to its cultivafJon ; but they huve l>een, in a great measure, overcome by the industry of the inhe- bitants. The traces of the plough are visible .in the sid«^s of precipices apparently inaccessible; and spots, which nature seemed to have doomed to eternal sterility, are crowned with vegetation. The produce of grain is generally equal to the consumption; but pasturage is the main object of the larmor. The chief manufactures are cotton and woollen goods, linen, silk, leather, jew*^Uy-ware, and particularly watches. Being situate in the centre of Euope, Switzerland is much restricted in its commercial intercourse by the barriers of the Alps, and the prohibitory systems o! ihe neighbouring States. The chief exports are cattle, sheep, linen, lace, silks, jewelry, die. The imports are principally corn, flax, raw silk, cotton, spices, and various kinds of manufactured goods. As to national character, the Swiss enjoy the reputation of being a plain, honest, brave, and simple people, among whom linger the last remnants of antique and primitive manners. Their fond attachment to their native country is conspicuous even amid the necessity which compels them to abandon it, and to enter the service of the neighbouring powers. It is observed that no sooner is the Ranz des Vaches, a, simple mountain air, played in their hearing, than the hardy soldiers melt into tears. An ardent love of liberty has long distinguished the Swiss people. The religion of Switzerland is divided between the Protestant and Catholic churches. The cantons of Schweitz, Uri, Unter- walden. Lucerne, Zug, Friburg, Soleure, Valais, and Tesino, are Catholic : St. Gall, Appenzell, Aargau, and Grisons, are mixed: Geneva, Vaud, Berne, Glarus, Zurich, Basle, Schaffhausen, Thurgau, and Neufchatel may be ranked as Protestant ; though even in Geneva there are 15,000 Catholics. The Protestant churches were at first strictly Calvinistic, both as to doctrine and discipline; but the Genevan church has, in a great measure, renounced the tenets of this school of theology. The Presbyterian form of church government, however, still prevails throughout Protestant Switzerland. The Catholic reli- gion exhibits this peculiar feature, that, instead of being, as usual, combined with high monarchial principles, it is established among the most purely demo<;ratic of the Swiss Republics. SWITZERLAND. 353 Learning, though not very generally diffused throughout Switzerland, has been cultivated with great ardour at Geneva 5.nd Zurich, both of which have a«character more decidedly in- tellectual than most European cities. Elementary knowledge h general throughout the Protestant population. The habits and g)! ural forms of life are substantially German, modified, in the w.stern cantons, and especially in Geneva, by a somewhat inti- mate communication with France. The Helvetic diet consists of deputies from the different cantons, which meet once a year. Extraordinary meetings may also be coiled on the requisition of any five cantons. This assembly takes cognizance of every thing that concerns the foreign rela- tions, and the general defence of the country. The army of the confederacy is formed of contingents, which each canton, in proportion to its number, is obliged to furnish. From these is made out an entire amount of 33,000 men. Among the Swiss cantons the forms of government are various ; Neufchatel is a constitutional monarchy, of which the king of Prussia is the executive head; Berne, Lucerne, Friburg, and Soleure are aristocratic ; the other seventeen cantons have con- stitutions based more or less on democratic forms and principles. A remarkable peculiarity in the military system of Switzerland is, the employment of its citizens in the service of foreign powers as a stipendiary force. This system has long prevailed, and is regularly authorized by the government. The number, in 1816, was estimated at 30,000. The singular consequence follows, that citizens of the most democratic state in Europe, form, in many cases, the main instrument in supporting the arbitrary power of foreign princes. The city of Berne is usually considered as the capital of Swit- zerland, but Zurich and Lucerne share with it that honour ; each being alternately the seat of government for two years at a time. Berne is pleasantly situated on the Aar, and is a large and handsome place, partly fortified, and containing a beautiful ca- thedral, a college, an arsenal, and several other public edifices. Population, 18,000. Basle, one of the largest trading towns in the confederacy, is situated on the Rhine, by which it is divided into two parts united by a bridge. It has a library of 28,000 volumes, and is the seat of a university, founded in 1459. Po- pulation, 16,000. Geneva stands at the western extremity of the lake of that name, and is divided by the Rhone into two parts. Its library contains about 50,000 volumes. It has some manufactures of woollen, muslin, chintz, silk, porcelain, and particularly watches, -.i'i ■1 '.H ;»• 356 EUROPE. r fl' r.*' n ■ •■ f ■ :( which employ near 3000 persons. The book trade 1ms ever been very flourishing here. Population, 26,000. Zurich stands on the lake of the same name, upon both sides of the river Limmath. It is distinguished for its college and public library, and has flourishing manufactures of muslins, cottons, and silk handkerchiefs. Population, 11,000. Lausanne is delightfully situated on three eminences, a mile north of th« lake of Geneva. It contains a gothic cathedral of considerable magnificence. Population, 10,000. Lucerne, on the lake of the same name, occupies a gentle eminence, and is surrounded by a wall and towers. Population, 7000. ITALY. Italv is an extensive region in th?i south of Europe, and one of the finest in the world, as to soil and climate, and noted as the theatre of many of the greatest events in history. It is now in a state of decline, but is filled with grand monuments and scenes, calculated to awaken the most lofly recollections. This portion of the European continent forms a large peninsula, bounded on the north by Germany and Switzerland, east by part of Austria and the Gulf of Venice, south and south-west by the Mediterranean, and on the west, m the northern parts, by France. Length, 700 miles ; breadth, from 350 to 75 miles. The whole area may be reckoned at 127,000 square miles, m- cluding the islands of Sicily and Sardinia. The surface of Italy is the most finely diversified of any country in the world. It has the loftiest mountains and the most beautiful plains in Europe. The Alps extend along the whole of its northern frontier, and some of their proudest pinnacles, Mont Blanc, St. Bernard, &c., are within the Italian territory. The Apennines are a chain that belong entirely to Italy, and range through the penmsula from north to south. The plains of this country are as remarkable for their extreme beauty, as the mountains for their grandeur. The most extensive is that of Lombardy, between the Alps and the Apennines, which, being profusely watered, highly cultivated, and under a genial climate, is, perhaps, the richest and most productive region in Europe. Of the rivers of northern Italy the Po is the most prominent : it flows into the Gulf of Venice, and is about 400 miles in extent. The others, in the same region, are much smaller in their length of course : they are the Piave, Brenta, Adige, and the Arno. The ..f . ever been both sides allege and f muslins, Lausanne orth of the onsiderabl© .lake of the )unded by a rope, and one and noted as istory. 1* ^^ lonuments and ections. Thw rge peninsula, rland, east by south-west by lern parts, by > to 75 miles, luare miles, m- lost prominent : It |es in extent. 1 he In their length of theArno. At^c ITALY. 357 well-known Tiber, Pescara, Garigliano, and Ombrone, are in the centre ; and the Votturno, Ofanto, Brandana, and Sele, in the south. The lakes are the Maggiore, Como, and Garda, in Lom- bardy, with Perugia and Bolsano, in tho States of the Church, together with Celano, in Naples. Tho principal islands arc Sicily, Sardinia, and Corsica ; thoso of Elba and the Lipari islands are less important. Malta, Gozzo, and Comino, though geographically Italian, belong to Great Britain. In Italy are to be found the finest specimens of architecture in Europe. The churches are costly and magnificent, and the dwellings of some of the higher nobility rival the palaces of kings and emperors. In Florence, the houses resemble fortresses, — a feature indicative of the time when the city was convulsed by the violence and feuds of its factions. In the northern states tho buildings are often provided with projecting porticoes, or arcades, stretching without interruption from one end of a city to another. In the Roman and Neapolitan territories, they are almost univer- sally without chimneys, as the mildness of the climate renders a fire seldom necessary. This country, once the most important commercial and manu- facturing region in Europe, is now dependent upon other nations for the superb fabrics with which she formerly supplied them ; her ships no longer cover the Mediterranean ; her merchants, who were once her nobles and her princes, retain only the shadow of mighty names. Yet such is the felicity of the soil and climate of Italy, that the produce of her land is still ample and valuable, and, after supplying a dense population, affords a large surplus for exportation. The inhabitants of this country are descended from different nations, which, at various times, overran Italy, though they are now blended into one race. The foreigners are mostly Germans, resident in Lombardy, Venice, &c., and Jews scattered over the country. The Italians are distinguished for their animated and expres- sive countenances, and brilliant eyes. They are generally of dark complexions, well formed and active. The women have black or auburn hair, and most of the requisites for beauty. Among the inhabitants are many cripples and deformed ; for the poor in Italy suffer many hardships and privations ; but among the lowest class, and especially at Naples, the human form is seen in its greatest perfection, and the half-clad lazzaroni are the best models for a sculptor. In all the states of Italy there are the usual grades of European nobility ; and the individuals are more numerous than those of • '1: U-: •A-WM 'M'T t 358 EUROPE. f. I- •)• 't'. -i ..'1- 8 uf tlio Church NaploH Parmu Modena Lucca San Marino Monaco ToUl Area, tn Total •qiiarn mllni. Popiilniton. 18,534 4,300,000 2!>,.'i34 4,400,000 8,759 1,280,000 17,572 2,600,000 42,700 7,414,000 2,250 440,000 2,145 400,000 434 150,000 22 9,000 50 7,000 122,000 21,000,000 F'' ■ ■% r -i! r< ■ ,,i,i p ■ - i '?■'! ff ' '-.;:- t'l . ■■ ' ■:'" c; * 1 .i-. • I It. t • ,■, H ^ ' it •■. •;! SARDINIA. The kingdom of Sardinia consists of live separate divisions, Piedmont, Genoa, Savoy, Nice, and the island of Sardinia. The first four comprise the continental section of the kingdom. They occupy the north-western portion of Italy, and are encompassed by France, Switzerland, Austrian Italy, Parma, and the Gulf of Genoa. The whole region is about 200 miles in length and 135 in width, with an area of 19,725 square miles. The island of Sardinia, from which the kingdom takes its name, forms the insular division of this state. It is situated on the Mediterranean sea to the southward of Corsica, and upwards of 200 miles south of the main land of Sardinia. It is 170 miles in length and 90 in breadth. Area, 9809 square miles ; area of he whole kingdom, 29,534 square miles ; population, 4,400,000. Continental Sardinia is inclosed, on three sides, by the Alps and the Apennines, which gives it an irregular surface, and renders the scenery more sublime, and the climate colder, than in southern Italy. In Piedmont the soil is very fertile and well cultivated. The plains produce rice, Indian corn, and other grains, and the hills are covered with vineyards and olive-yards. The pastures are very rich, and grazing is an important branch of husbandry. Savoy is a rugged province, resembling Swit- zerland in its character, and lying among the lofliest of the Alps near Mount Blanc and Mount Cenis. The irregularity of the surface renders cultivation very difficult, and it is naturally one of the poorest countries in Europe. The Savoyards are but ITALY. UUl vcral 10 9C ToUl 4,400,000 1,2«0,0()0 7,414,000 440,000 400,000 150,000 9,000 7,000 ■"li^oo,ooo rate divisions, Sardinia. The ngdom. They 3 encompassed nd the Gulf of length and 135 takes its name, situated on the nd upwards ol is 170 miles m les ; area of he ,4,400,000. bytheAlpsnn'l ;e, and renders colder, than in fertile and well porn, and other [and olive-yards. ' iportant branch .sembling Swjt- le loftiest of the L irregularity ot d it is naturally 'ivoyardsarebut poorly instructed ; but their industry, frugality, and sobriety, I'lmbio ihonj to gain a comfortahin subsistence. Tlj(! mountains, which extend over the country, give risn to u numlujr of small stre.'uns, that unito to form tlu! I'o. The Kli ■t ri "vmrn 'Sti2 EUROPK. m t-' I -I &: !.* i - 'i f I the numerous and desperate banditti, by whom the mountains are infested. A considerable portion ol* the horses, cattle, and sheep, are in a wild state. The Sardinian government is making exertions to improve the condition of the island, by tiie tbrmation of roads, &c. Cagliari and Sassari are both considerable towns ; the Ibrmer having some trade, but crowded, ill-built, and ill-paved; the latter, smaller, but more elegant. Oristagno has a tine harbour, and flourishes by the tunny fishery, and by the culture of wine in its neighbourhood. Turin, the capital of Piedmont, and, also, of the kingdom, is situated on the western bank of the Po, at the foot of a range of beautiful hills. It is the most regularly built of all the Italian cities, with broad, straight, and clean streets, and is admired for the sym- metry of its squares, the splendour of its hotels, and the general elegance of its houses. It has four splendid gates, adorned with pillars and cased with marble ; 110 churches, a university, and many fine palaces. The royal palace is spacious, and surrounded with delightful gardens. The outward view of the city is very imposing, and it has no mean suburbs or mouldering walls. Population, 114,000. Genoa, surnamed the superb, and the once proud capital of the great naval republic of the same name, stands on the shores of the Gulf of Genoa. The aspect of its white buildings ascend- ing in regular progression from the sea is highly magnificent. The interior consists of streets, or rather lanes, eight or ten feet wide, between immensely high edifices. Two of the streets only are accessible to carriages. The Strada Balbi is one of the most magnificent streets in the world, and is full of splendid palaces. Genoa has several public libraries, a university, and other literary institutions. Its harbour is one of the finest in Europe, and it has a considerable trade. Population, 80,000. This city was taken by the English and their allies, from the French, in the year 1800, when 20,000 of the besieged perished with hunger. It was, however, evacuated after the victory of Marengo. Nice is beautifully situated on the Gulf of Genoa, and has a good artificial harbour. The mildness of its climate draws many invalids to this quarter. Population, 25,000. Chamberry, the chief town of Savoy, occupies a charming spot, surrounded by gentle eminences covered with vineyards, pastures, and wood ; but it is not a well-built place. Population, 12,000. Alessandria, on the Tanaro, a branch of the Po, is the strongest place in the kingdom. It is well built, with broad and handsome streets. Po^.ulation, 35,000. In the neighbourhood of this city is the ITALY ;wi8 atains are ind sheep, improve •oads, &c. the lormer the latter, .rbour, and wine in its Kingdom, is a range of talian cities, forthesym- the general idorned with iversity, and i surrounded 1 city is very iering walls. ud capital of on the shores dings ascend- r magnificent. ' eight or ten of the streets is one of the 1 of splendid niversity, and ■ the finest in on, 80,000. lilies, from the ieged perished the victory of [loa, and has a te draws many Jhamberry, the surrounded by •es, and wood ; Alessandria, jst place in the ndsome streets. this city is the village of Marengo, the scene of one of Bonaparte's most cele- brated victories. Other towns, with their population respectively, are— Asti, 22,000; Coni, 18,000; Mondovi, 17,000; Vercelli, 16,000 ; Novarra, 15,000. MoNACA. — The principality of Monaca is a small independent state, under the protection of Sardinia. It has an area of 50 square miles. The prince usually resides at Paris. Monaca, the capital, is a village with 1000 inhabitants. Mentore, the largest town, has a population of 3000. AUSTRIAN ITALY. Austrian Italy, or the Lombardo- Venetian kingdom, called also the kingdom of Lombardy and Venice, is situated in the north- eastern part of Italy, and forms the finest portion of the Austrian empire. It consists of an extensive and populous plain, which stretches, on the one hand, from the Alps to the Po, and, on the other, from Sardinia to Illyria, comprising several territories that were once politically distinct. The luxuriant fertility of this vast plain, the beautiful and ro- mantic landscapes presented by the southern declivity of the Alps, the lakes which spread at their feet, and the fine shores of the Gulf of Venice, unite in making it one of the most desirable coim- tries in Europe. The kingdom consists of two great divisions ; the late republic of Venice in the east, and Lombardy in the west. It is bounded north by Switzerland and the Tyrol ; south by the States of the Church, Modena, and Parma ; east by Illyria, and west by Sar- dinia. It is 220 miles long, 140 wide, and contains 18,534 square miles, with 4,300,000 inhabitants. The Po washes the southern limit of the kingdom. This river, denominated the prince of Italian streams, rises in the western Alps, on the confines of France and Italy, and, after receiving numerous tributaries from the north and the south, flows into the Gulf of Venice. It is about 400 miles in length, is everywhere deep and rapid, and is navigable to Turin. The Adige and the Piave also flow from the Alps into the Gulf of Venice. The chief lakes are the Maggiore, Como, and Garda: they are more remarkable for their beauty than their extent, and are all connected with the Po by tributaries of that stream. The climate of this region is delightful, yet the winter has some features of Alpine severity. The heats of summer are mi- tigated by the cool breezes from the Alps. The irrigation applied A a 364 EUROPE. |: :.if!l 'I'! to the lands in Lombardy is the most perfect in Europe. The mountains, which border the country, afford an inexhaustible supply of water. The meadows yield six crops of hay in a year. Rice is cultivated in some parts. The grain and ordinary fruits are ripe in June or July, and the vintage takes place in October. The bee and the silk-worm receive much attention, but the dairy is the main occupation of the farmei*. The chief manufactures are silk, glass, and hardware. At Venice and Murano beautiful mirrors are made ; hardware and fire-arms at Brescia, and jewelry and plate at Milan and Venice. There are also some manufactures of woollen cloths, musical instruments, china, carpets, paper, artificial flowers, perfumes, vermicelli, macaroni, glass beads, &c. Venice has been made a free port : its foreign commerce, however, is trifling, but the in- ternal trade is active. The government is arbitrary, and is administered by an Aus- trian viceroy. There is a show of representation, yet everything is controlled by the authorities at Vienna. All the taxes are imposed by the emperor. The administration of justice is arbi- trary and wretched in the extreme, and the censorship is very rigid. Milan, the capital of the kingdom, and the residence of the viceroy, is a large and splendid city, eleven miles in circumfer- ence. It is 'considered the most elegant city in Italy, and was very much improved and beautified by Napoleon. The finest building is the cathedral, which is inferior only to St. Peter's at Rome. It is completely built, paved, vaulted, and roofed with the whitest and most resplendent marble. Most of the buildings in this city are constructed according to a regular order of architecture, and a mean-looking house is as rare here, as a palace elsewhere. Here is the famous Ambrosian library, with 72,000 volumes, and 15,000 manuscripts. The hospitals and charitable institutions are numerous. Milan was founded 584 years before Christ, by the Insubrian Gauls. It has been forty times besieged ; forty times taken, and four times destroyed. It has above 200 churches, and more than 100 monastic institutions. Population, 160,000. Venice is the most picturesque city in Europe, and full of cha- ••acter and variety. It stands in the Gulf of Venice, about five miles from the main land, and is built upon a multitude of islands, which are intersected by canals instead of streets. The Grand Canal is crossed by the Rialto, a marble arch ninety feet in spar. The prospect from this bridge is lively and magnificent. There are 500 other bridges. Most of the canals are narrow, and some have no quays, so that the water wash ., the houses. Boats ITALY. ,'m5 pe. The xhaustible in a year, lary fruits n October, t the dairy [wave. At rdware and md Venice, hs, musical I, perfumes, been made a r, but the in- I by an Aus- 3t everything he taxes are uslice is arbi- »rship is very iidence of the , in circumfer- taly, and was J. The finest to St. Peter's d, and roofed Most of the I regular order rare here, as a n library, with ; hospitals and s founded 584 , has been forty i destroyed. It Stic institutions. and full of cha- pnice, about five titude of islands, ts. The Grand letv feet in span .nificent. There larrow, and some houses. Boats called gondolas, are used to navigate the canals, in which all parts of the city may be traversed with ease and safety. The d.fcal palace, and the churches of St. Mark and St. Gemignano, a/e rich and splendid edifices. The square of St. Mark is 800 feet in length, and has a magnificent appearance. The republic of Venice, with its series of splendid triumphs, its gorgeous no- bility, and its rich commerce, is now an empty name : but the city still remains ; and, though possessing but the shadow of its former importance, yet contains 150,000 inhabitants. Padua, the birth-place of Livy, has a famous university, founded by Charlemagne, and is said to have had, at one time, 18,000 students; in 1817, only 300. Population, 55,000. Mantua is a strong town, standing in the midst of a lake formed by the Mincio. The streets are broad and straight, and the squares .spacious. Population, 25,000. Cremona stands at the conflu- ence of the Po and the Adda, ft has a splendid cathedral and is regularly built, but the streets are grass-grown, and the place has a decaying look. It is particularly celebrated for its manufacture of violins. Population, 27,000. Brescia, to the west of lake Garda, has also a fine cathedral. Population, 31,000. Pavia, on the Tecino, has a university founded by Charlemagne. Population, 21,000. Lodi, on the Adda, is celebrated for n, victory gained by Bonaparte over the Austrians. Populatio. , 18,000. Verona, on the Adige, at the foot of the Alps, has a charming situation, and many fine buildings. Its ancient walls and towers inclose a vast area, and have a noble appearance. The great amphitheatre, at this place, is one of the noblest monu- ments of Roman magnificence now existing. Population, 55,0<'0 TUSCANY. The Grand Duchy of Tuscany ranks next to the Roman States as the theatre of great historical events, and has surpassed Rome itself as the seat of modern learning. It is bounded north and east by the Roman States, south-west by the Mediterranean, and north-west by Lucca. It contains 8759 square miles, and 1,280,000 inhabitants. The chief river is the Arno, which rises among the mountains in the eastern part, and flows westerly to the sea. The Ombrone, in the south, is not navigable. The Tiber rises in the mountains of this country. Tuscany is admired for its romantic scenery. The boldness, grandeur, and rich luxuriance of the country, are hardly any- where equalled. The vale of the Arno is one of the most delight- 31* Si 366 EUROPE. If ' W- l.-_y~ f If f' ,1;*', B;."-/ ful regions in the world. It is abundantly rich and well cultivated, and is divided into very small farms, separated by rows of trees, or small canals. Chestnuts are an important production ; in some parts they are used for bread. The Maremma, a desolate unhealthy tract of country, stretches along the coast for 200 miles southward from Leghorn : the noxious atmosphere, called P/Ialaria, renders this region almost uninhabitable. The Tuscans are among the most industrious 01' the Italian nations. Their manufactures of silk are carried on with great activity, and employ a number of individuals. Straw hats are made in great numbers by the women, in the valley of the ^ rno. The other manufactures are linen, broadcloth, soap, perfumes, letter-paper, china, and mosaics, with various articles in marble, coral, alabaster, «Sz;c. Leghorn is a noted sea-port, and has an extensive commerce with the Levant, Europe, and America. The government is an absolute monarchy. There are 4000 regular troops, besides militia. The chief universities are at Florence, Pisa, and Sienna. They comprist about 1200 students. At Florence are also several public schools. The island of Elba is nine miles from the coast of Tuscany. It is sixty miles in circumference, and contains 160 square miles. The chief production is iron, taken mostly from a single moun- tain consisting of one immense mass of iron ore. The island contains, also, copper, lead, and silver mines, and produces ex- cellent wines. Population, 14,000. The chief town, Porto Ferrajo, has a good harbour, and contains 3000 inhabitants. In 1814, this island was given in entire sovereignty to Napoleon, who resided here from May, 1814, till February 26, 1815. Florence, the capital, stands on the Arno, fifty miles from the sea. It is six miles in compass, and, next to Rome, is the most beautiful city in Italy. It is built in a plain, skirted by the Apennines. The city is surrounded by walls ; the buildings are magnificent, and the streets well paved and kept remarkably clean. The ducal palace, the cathedral, the church of Santa Croce, and many other edifices, are noted for their size and splendour. The Medicean gallery is rich in those treasures of painting end sculpture which draw to this city visiters from every quarter of the civilized globe. The Laurentian library has 120,000 volumes; others have 90,000 and 50,000. There are many splendid private galleries and libraries. Florence was the cradle of the arts, at the time of their regeneration, and the birth-place of Dante, Michael Angelo, Galileo, and Amerigo Vespucci. The city contains a great number of wealthy English residents. Population, 80,000. Pisa, on the Arno, near the sea, was once the capital of a cultivated, /s of trees, luction; in a desolate [si for 200 here, called the Italian 1 with gveat iw hats are of the ^^ inc. ip, perfumes, Bs in marble, , and has an A.merica. ere are 4000 irsities are at L200 students. it of Tuscany. square mdes. a single moun- B. The island ,d produces ex- Bf town, Porto nhabitants. In ly to Napoleon, 26, 1815. f miles from the ame, is the most , skirted by the he buildings are .markably clean. 5antaCroce,and splendour, ine of painting end every quarter ot „es; others have private galleries arts, at the time .' Dante, Michael he city contains a ;'puJion,80 000. the capital ot a ITALY. a67 republic, the rival of Genoa and Venice. It is now decayed, but can still boast some marble churches, a marble palace, and a marble bridge. The cathedral is a large gothic edifice of marble. Near it stands that remarkable structure, the Leaning Tower : it is 190 feet high, and overhangs its base fifteen feet, seeming to threaten a fall at every instant ; yet it has stood six hundred years, and endured the shock of earthquakes which have over- thrown many a perpendicular structure. Pisa has a university with a library of 00,000 volumes. Population, 20,000. Leghirn is the chief sea-port of Tuscany. It is a neat, well- built, and busy town, with a tolerable harbour. The streets are filled with Europeans, Turks, Jews, Armenians, Greeks, and Moors, exhibiting a most picturesque variety of costume. But few works of art and architectural monuments exist here. The com- merce of this place is very active. Population, 66,000. Sienna, once the capital of a flourishing republic, is now much reduced, but still contains a magnificent cathedral and a university. Population, 18,000. Duchy of Parjia. — Parma, ?lu.*entia, and Guastalla, though they have been formed into a state for Maria Louisa, the ex-em- press of France, form, in reality, an appendage of Lombardy, and a continuation of its great plain, to the foot of the Apennines. The country abounds in the richest pastures. n*om which is pro- duced the celebrated Parmesan cheese. The city of Parma, on a small river of the same name, is large, populous, airy, and clean. It does not contain any remarkable architectural features, except the theatre, modelled on the ancient plan, and, perhaps, the noblest in the world, but now in a state of decay. Population, 30,000. Piacenza, or Placentia, with 28,000 inhabitants, is also a large and well-built city ; but its celebrateQ amphitheatre, which sur- passed that of Verona, was burnt to the ground in one of the furious civil contests which laid waste Italy. The population of the duchy is about 440,000, and its area 2240 square miles. Duchy of Modena. — Modena is a fine small domain, composed of a rich plain at the foot of the Apennines. It is held as a fief of Austria, and by a branch of that family. It has an area of 2145 square miles, and 400,000 inhabitants. The territory is fertile and well cultivated. Modena, the capital, is a handsome city, with 27,000 in- habitants. The ducal palace is an elegant edifice, and the cathedral is remarkable for its to'ver, the most lofty in Italy. Reggio, also, contains a ducal palace, with a population of 18,000. Carrara is noted for its fine statuary marble, which is largely exported. ■' • m^ Wbm\ ^ • ^u'lk^E'ijIfflS ^^ilf^ tm 'i'^V 5 |m .1 Im > 4 -i\ii u ^1i m nR i 'MS EUROPE ■ i • ■ M''^: P'. i. -$ ■ i: w f-M Ducuv OF Lucca. — Lucca is one of the few Italian republics, which, amid the revolutions of 800 years, maintained its inde- pendence. The people reaped the benefit of this, in the superior education and more decent deportment of the nobles ; and in that agricultural industry, which has converted a land liable to inundation, and destitute of many natural advantages, into a complete garden. The territory, though comprising an area of only 434 square miles, two-thirds of which consist of mountain and defile, reckons a population of 150,000. Tiif capital is Lucca, with 22,000 inhabitants. The city contains a palace, university, and observatory. The celebrated h;ttb« of Lucca are near the town. The country residences of the higher ranks are generally magnificent structures. THE POPEDOM, OR STATES OF THE CHURCH. The Popedom, or States of the Church, called, also, the Eccle- siastical States, and the Roman States, comprise one of the most celebrated countries in the world, and occupy the centre of Italy. Though these states have lost that paramount importance and influence which they once possessed, yet, as they contain Rome with all its stupendous monuments, and were the central theatre of all the ancient grandeur of Italy, they still excite an interest superior to that of any other of these celebrated regions. This territory is washed on the north-east by the Gulf of Venice, and on the south-west by the Mediterranean sea. On the north it is bounded by the Lombardo-Venetian kingdom, on the south-east by the kingdom of Naples, and on the west by Modena and Tuscany. Its extreme length is 260 miles from north to south, and its breadth from 25 to 110 miles. It contains 17,572 square miles, and 2,600,000 inhabitants. The Roman States art, interdccted by the Apennines, which divide the country into two unequal sections, moderate the violent heats of summer, and give rise to a number of small rivers. Of these, the Tiber, though not the largest stream in Italy, is the first in classical celebrity. It passes through the city of Rome to the Mediterranean, and is about 150 miles long. There is no other river of any importance wholly within this ter'-itory, but its northern boundary is washed by the Po. The Campagna di Roma is a continuation of the Tuscan Maremma. It exhibits an undulated surface, bare of trees, and is noted for its impure atmosphere. The Pontine marshes, in ITALY. 369 repviblics, its inde- B superior 3; and in d liable to es, into a 134 square le, reckons The city J celebrated ssidences of s. RCH. ,0, the Eccle- e of the most the centre of nt importance 3 they contain •e the central 5till excite an ,rated regions. y the Gulf ot lean sea. On 1 kingdom, on n the west by BO miles from It contains snnines, which moderate the imber of small gest stream m es through the 150 miles long, oily within this the Po. of the Tuscan re of trees, and .ine marshes, in the southern part of these states, also add to the insalubrity of the coast. The ancient Cajsars and the modern Popes have in vain attempted to drain them. The lake of Perugia, near the city of that name, is a beautiful sheet of water, four miles across, bordered with gently sloping hills, everywhere covered with woods or cultivated fields, and rising at a distance into mountains. The lakes of Albano and Nemi are charmingly situated among the hills. There are other small lakes. The climate is mild, but the mountains are covered with snow from October to April. The Sirocco, or hot wind from Africa, is felt on the shore of the Mediterranean. In the mountainous parts the air is healthy, but in the Maremma, on the coast, and in the neighbourhood of the Pontine marshes, are pestilential exha- lations which cause fever and ague. The northern parts, near the Po, are also unhealthy. The soil does not differ materially from that of Tuscany. TI13 oranges and lemons produced in the plain of Rome are the best in Italy. The lands are commonly held by great proprietors. In the plain of the Po cultivation is active, but the rest of the country is neglected. The Romans are less industrious than their northern neighbours. The vine and olive grow everywhere. Onions are raised in immense quantities in the marshes of Anconu. Hemp, saffron, and beans, are extensively cultivated. The commerce is chiefly in the hands of foreigners, and the only sea-port of consequence is Civita Vecchia. The manufactures merely supply the home consumption. Some silk is manufactured at Bologna, beside many miscellaneous articles. Gail-nuts and cantharides are articles of exportation. The government is an elective monarchy. TI\. ;>ope possesses both the legislative and executive powor, and is chosen by the college of cardinals from amongf themselves. The number of cardinals is about 70. Constitutionally, the pope is an absolute sovereign, but in practice he is only tho head of an oligarchy. Since the time of Adrian VI., who was obtruded upon the throne by Charles V., all the popes have been Italians. The military force is about 7000 men. There is no navy. Rome, the capital of this territory, once the capital of the world, stands on the Tiber, 15 miles from the sea; is 13 rniles in circumference, but has much open ground, comprehending gar- dens, fields, and meadov/s. It has a sombre appearance, rendered still more striking by large squares, spacious and deserted streets, and the majestic ruins which are seen at every step. Some of the streets are of immense length ; others are half built; many ure narrow and crooked. In one part are noble palaces half hidden among miserable huts ; in another part all is gorgeous ^Ti:*' 1^:7 U: : 370 EUROPE. ■' f ii. i ;!■ ' I ■ '''^i and magnificent. Ofher places may be more beautiful, but Rome is one of the most richly picturesque cities in the world. The hills, insignificant in themselves, seem' made to display the build- ings to the greatest advantage. The spectator is dazzled with the multiplicity of objects, and decaying ruins are relieved by modern magnificence. The church of St. Peter, built at the expense of the whole Roman world, is the glory of modern architecture. It is fronted by a circular colonnade, surrounding an Egyptian obelisk, and two magnificent fountains. This church was 111 years in building, and cost a sum equal to 160,000,000 dollars at the present day. No other church in Rome can be compared to this, yet there are many remarkable for magnificence and antiquity. The Pantheon is the most perfect edifice of ancient Rome ; it is now converted into a church ; its portico is unrivalled. Trajan's pillar is a fine monumental column, in ood preservation. But the most won- derful monument of liuaian magnificence is the Coliseum, an amphitheatre, capable of containing 60,000 spectators, and in which the Roman people assembled to witness the combats of gladiators and wild beasts. It is now a ruin, but enough of it remains to attest its former magnificence. The Vatican palace is the greatest repository of ancient and modern art in existence. The whole pile of building, with its gardens, comprises a circuit of some miles, and the apartments are numbored at 4442. The library is an immense collection. The Vatican is the residence of the pope in winter. Ron»e has 300 churches and 300 palaces. The Corso, a street nearly a mile long, is a fashionable drive, where the better class display very populous. At present it has 24,000 inhabitants. Ravenna, near the Guif of Venice, had once a harbour, which is now filled up. It was at one time the seat of the Italian Exarchs, and contains tho tomb of Dante. Population, '24,000. Ancona, on the Gulf of Venice, is a strong place, with a tolerable harbour. Population, 30,000. Civita Vecchia, a sea-port on the Mediterranean, has some com- merce and 6000 inhabitants. Republic of Sa:v Marino. — This littlo territory, the most free and virtuous of all republics, is an independent state under the protection of the pope. It has existed almost 1400 years, exemplifying in the virtue, simplicity, and happiness of its people, the powerful influence of free institutions. The government is a mixture of aristocracy and democracy. The magistrates and legislators are for the most part elected for life. The revenue of the state amounts to $15,000. The army consists of 60 men. The population of the capital is about 5000. Four villages constitute the rest of the territory of the republic. Area, 32 square miles ; population, 900U. NAPLES, OR THE TWO SICILIES. Naples, or the two Sicilies, is the most considerable state in Italy for extent and population ,* but, owing to the supine and indo- lent character of its government, the kingdom has no weight in the political system of Europe. It comprises Naples, the most south- ern division of Italy, and the island of Sicily and the Lipari isles. The continental section contains 30,500 square miles, and the islands 12,200. Total, 42,700. Population, 7,414,000. The ridge of the Apennines extends through the whole of Na- ples, from north to south, and gives rise to numerous small but beautiful streams, of which the Garigliano, Vulturno, Sele, Vasi- ento, Crati, &c., are the chief: none of these, however, exceed 100 miles in their length of course. This kingdom is distinguished for its natural fertility, and com- prises some of the finest sections of Italy. Vegetation throughout most parts of the country, is rich and exuberant. Here flourish the fig-tree, the almond, the cotton-plant, and sugar-cane. Sicily is one of the most productive spots on the earth. The soil is calcareous, and its fertility is much increased by volcanic fire. ■i -Hi? '■"fm i'- rl M ',1! 872 EUROPE. ■ij! Cr. P.^ S-.--^ I' ^i. w. ■ h' : . '! lei Agriculture is budly ma iged, and the cultivators are poor. On the continent are produced wine, oil, silk, wheat, Indian-corn, do, ; Sicily produces the same articles, with llux and hemp : oranges, lemons, figs, and almonds are raised, in great quantities. The exports consist chiefly of the products of the country, and are not extensive. The commerce is entirely in the hunds of foreigners. There are no manufactures of any consequence. Education and the sciences are in a low state throughout the kingdom, and there are no schools for the instruction of the lower class. The three universities at Naples, Palermo, and Catania are provided with fine libraries and numerous professors, but little is taught in them besides law and natural philosophy. The government is a constitutional hereditary monarchy ; yet the king exercises both the legislative and the executive power. The army consists of 28,000 men, and the navy of two ships of the line, five frigates, and fifty sail of small vessels, all in a very inefficient condition. Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean : it is separated from the continent by the strait of Messina, which is five miles wide. The mountains of this island may be regarded as a contin- uation of the Apennines. Mount Etna, near the eastern shore, i.. 10,925 feet in heipilit. This celebrated volcano has thrown )Ut flames, at intervnUt, for more than 2000 years. Its immense size and solitary elevation, the beauty and magnificence of the sur- rounding scenuiV} and the terrific grandeur of its eruptions, have made it one of the wonders of the world. The Lipari islands lie north of Sicily. They are 12 in number, and contain a population of 20,000 : a part of them only are inhab- ited. Stromboli is a volcano that burns without ceasing. Volcano, another island, constantly emits smoke. Capri, Ischia, and Procida, are small fertile islands in the Bay of Naples. Naples, the capital of the kingdom, is the largest city in Italy. It stands on the splendid bay of the same name, and with its su- burbs and contiguous villages extends six or eight miles along the water. Nothing can surpass the beauty of the bay or the prospect of the city viewed from the water, where its long lines of palaces, splendid gardens, and teri'aced roofs are seen to great advantage. The dark towering summit of Vesuvius rises to the height of 3932 feet above the bay, while its lower regions are covered with the richest vegetation, and dotted with white country-houses. The streets of the city are straight but narrow ; some are re- freshed with fountains ; others are decorated with statues and sculp- tured obelisks. The houses are high, the roofs flat. Naples in its interior has no parallel on earth. The whole population is out of doors and in incessant motion. Every trade, occupation, and 'i IONIAN REPUBLIC. 373 poor. On •.orn, A -:•• ; : ora<)g<'Ht ties. The uul are not foreigners. lughout the )f the lower ind Catania rs, but little narchy; yet utive power, two ships of ill in a very it is separated is five miles id as a contiri- stern shore, i • IS thrown mt I immense size ce of the sur- eruptions, have 12 in number, only are inhab- sing. Volcano, ia, and Procida, it city in Italy- ,nd with its su- miles along the or the prospect lines of palaces, reat advantage, .height of 3932 loveved with the lOUses. ^; some are re- tatues and sculp- flat. Naples m population is out occupation, and amusement is here going on in the midst of a tumultuous crowd rolling up and down. The number of lazzarani, or vagabonds, is immense. They are idle from choice : their tatters do not indi- cate misery, ibr the climate requires hardly any covering. Six strong ca«tles defend the city, and an excellent mole shelters the port. There are above 300 churches in Naples, remarkable for their rich ornaments. The nobility are numerous, and 120 of them have the title of princes. Population, 364,000. Torre del Greco, a sea-port near Naples, has 13,00^' Gaeta, 15,000 ; and Lccci also has 16,000. H' atic, has a good harbour, and a population of lU,i>o Palermo, the capital of Sicily, is a fine city, 'i regular and wide ; the houses elegant, and several squares very bcautiliil. Population, 168,000. Catania lies atfhe foot of Mount Etna. It was founded 700 years before the Chris- tian era, and has suffered severely from eruptions of the mountain and earthquakes. Population, 47,000. Messina stands upon the strait of that name ; it is regularly huilt, has one of the best harbours in the Mediterranean, and is the first commercial town in the kingdom. I; was completely destroy- ed by an earthquake in 1783, hut has been rebuilt. Population, 40,000. Trapani, Syracuse, and Girgentiare towns of some note on the coast, and have each respectively 24,000, 18,000, and 12,000 inhabitants. bitants; iri- ,ire ubiic IONIAN REPUBLIC. The Ionian Islands is the name given to a range extending chiefly along the oom^t of Greece. The principal islands are Ccphalonia, Corfu, Zaute, Santa Maura, Theaki, and Cerigo; the latter is situated at a considerable distance from the rest, off the southern coast of the Morea. These islands once fornie IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 IL25 III 1.4 liilZi 125 i 1.6 lit m ■u 6" HiotDgraphic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEftSTER.N.Y. MSM (716)872-4503 [V ^^ •s^ \ \ '^^ 4^y. >. «^ \ mm 374 EUROPE. Ihn i i i ■■ These islands, like the opposite coast of Greece, are rocky, rugged, and picturesque. This surface renders them ill fitted for the cultivation of grain ; but wine and fruits, especially the latter, are raised in great perfection. The species of small grape, which, when dried, are called currants, and olive oil, are largely exported. Honey, wine, and flax, are the other most important articles of agricultural industry. The annual value of the exports is about $1,200,000. The public revenue, independent of the military establishment which is supported by the British govern- ment, is $700,000 per annum. The following table gives a general view of the Ionian islands : Names. Cephalonia Corfu Zantc Santa Maura Cerigo (,with Cerigotto) Theaki (with Calamos) Paxo (with Antipaxo). . Sq. M. Population. 350 59,000 240 56,000 140 35,000 100 18,000 90 9,000 60 8,000 20 5,000 1000 190,000 Capitala. Argostoli Corfu Zante Santa Maura . . Modari Vathi St. Gago Population. 4,000 17,000 18,000 5,000 1,000 2,000 4,000 Zante is the richest and most flourishing of these islands, but Corfu contains the city of Corfu, which is strongly fortified, and is the seat of government of the republic. Argostoli, Corfu, and Zante, are the principal ports. Malta is an island in the Mediterranean Sea, about 54 miles to the southward of Sicily : it is about 60 miles in circuit, and, together with the neighbouring small islands of Gozzo and Comino, belongs to Great Britain. These islands were formerly in the possession of the Knights of St. John, a rich and powerful military order. They were captured from them by Napoleon Bonaparte on his voyage to Egypt, and were afterwards taken by the British in the year 1800. In no part of Europe are the fortifications sa imposing. In Gibraltar, admiration is excited by the works of nature; in Malta, by those of art. To garrison the latter compjetely, would require above 30,000 men. Maha was originally nothing but a barren rock ; but such quantities of soil have been carried to it from Sicily and Africa, that it is now fertile and well cultivated. The people are industrious, and raise grain, cotton, and excellent fruits, particularly oranges. Population, 104,000. On the neighbouring smaller island of Gozzo there are 16,000; and Co- mino, lying between Malta and Gozzo, contains 600 inhabitants. La Valetta, the capital and port of Malta, being situated on a narrow tongue of land, with a noble harbour on each side, forms an admirable naval station, deriving great importance from its G R £ ESC £ • 375 nt^ .1] se, are rocky, them ill fitted especially the of small grape, oil, are largely most important le of the exports spendent of the British govern- s Ionian islands : 1, iPopHlatitin. "• ' 4,000 17,000 18,000 5,000 1,000 2,000 4,000 ;hese islands, but igly fortified, and rostoU, Corfu, and 2a, about 54 miles in circuit, and, is of Gozzo and »nds were formerly L rich and powerful Ihem by Napoleon afterwards taken f sa imposing. In [fnature; in Malta, Ltely, would requne thing but a barren Icarried to it ftm h\ cultivated. The Itton, and excellent 1104,000. On the Ire 16,000; and Co- Ins 600 inhabitants. Ibeing situated on a Ion each side, forms limportance from Us position in the heart of the Mediterranean. It serves also, espe- cially during war, as a commercial dep6t, whence goods may be introduced into Italy and the Levant. Population, 32,000. Citta Vecchia, in the centre of the island, is also well fortified. Population, 5000. GREECE. Greeck, or Hellas, as it is called by the natives, is one of the most celebrated countries in the world. Its name is dear to every man of taste and lover of learning. Two thousand years ago Greece excelled all other nations in civilization, literature and the arts. It was for almost the whole of the last four cen- turies subject to Turkish bondage, but has lately, after a bloody and protracted warfare, become free and independent. Modern Greece comprises only a portion of the ancient country of that name. It comprehends a section of the most southern part of Europe, together with a number of islands in the Archi- pelago. It is formed of two peninsulas, of which that of the Morea is the most southern. It is joined to the mainland by the isthmus of Corinth. The kingdom is encompassed, on all sides, by the sea, except the north, where it is separated from European Turkey by a boundary which stretches from the Gulf of Volo to that of Arta. The interior of Greece is greatly diversified with rugged mountains, and with fertile and picturesque vales. Along the shores there are beautiful plains, the soil of which is fruitful, and tlie climate delightful. There are many inlets and bays, afford- ing great facilities for commerce, and presenting strong induce- ments to navigation. In various parts of Greece, there still remain many interesting monuments of antiquity. The ruins of temples, known to have been built 3000 years ago, exist at the present day. It is remarkable that these remains exhibit a styleof archi- tecture, common in that remote age, more truly chaste and beau- tiful than has been since devised. The general divisions of Greece are the four provinces of Western Hellas, Eastern Hellas, the Morea, and the Isles which are divided into ten nomoi, and these again are subdivided into 48 eparchies. The area of the whole is about 21,000 square miles. The population is estimated at from 600,000 to 1,000,000. Many of the mountains of this country are greatly renowned in history and poetry. The most celebrated, however, as Athos, Olympus, Pindus, Pelion, &c. are not comprised in the present ' , ,i.W P 376 EUROPE. I ' I:' kingdom. Parnassus, Helicon, and Hymettus, on the mainland, and Taygetus, in the Morea, --are the best known of those included in modern Greece. The rivers Aspropotamus and the Alpheus are the principal Greek streams; they are however small, the first being only 140 miles in its length of course, and the other about one half of that extent. The Gulf of Lepanto, in the west, and Bgina, in the east, are separated from each other by the isthmus of Corinth, which is only five miles wide, and connects the peninsula of the Morea with the continent. The other important inlets are the gulfs of Arta and Arcadia, on the west, Coron, Colokythia and Napoli, on the south, and Yolo and Zeitoun, on the east. The agriculture of this region is very imperfect, yet, so genial are the soil and climate, that the products are abundant. Wheat, barley, Indian-corn, cotton, &c., are generally cultivated ; and honey, oil, and wine, are also produced. Greece, however, is almost altogether a pastoral country ; the people are skilled in the management of cattle, sheep, and goats, which are fed in vast numbers on the sides of the hills and on the high plains of the interior. Manufactures are in a still ruder state than agriculture, and the country is indebted to foreigners for every thing, except a few coarse and common fabrics. Commerce is carried on with much greater activity than any of the other branches of industry, and has been one of the main instruments in raising this renowned country from its extreme depression. A prodigious impulse was given to the commerce of this country by the general war conse- quent on the French revolution, which left the Greek for a long time the only ral flag in Europe. The islands, and parti- cularly the liti "bours of Hydra, Ipsara, and Spezzia, not only exportad i. j produce of Greece itself, but maintained the carrying trade from port to port all around the Mediterranean. In 1809, the exports were estimated to amount to 14 million dollars. It is difficult to ascertain the present condition of the commerce of this country. During the late dreadful contest it was trodden under foot, and the people of Hydra, in whom it centred, had all their resources occupied by war, nor has it pro- bably revived at all to its ancient extent. In 1832, however, the Greek merchant-vessels exceeded 1000 in number. The Greek army, in 1820, was estimated at 50,000 men, con- sisting of brave but irregular troops, and commanded by skilful generals. The military force at present does not probably exceed 15,000 men. The navy was composed mostly of merchant brigs belonging to the islands, amounting to about 80 sail. They generally beat the Turkish fleets during the war, and many of (;r£Ece. 877 le mainland, fin of those mus and the are however f course, and ■ of Lepanto, )m each other lies wide, and ntinent. The rcadia, on the and Volo and yet, so genial idant. Wheat. juUivated; and ;e, however, is e are skilled m I are fed in vast gh plains of the agriculture, and r thing, except a carried on with ,che3 of industry, na this renowned ious impulse was ;neral war conse- Greek for a long slands, and parti- and Spezzia, not t maintamed the Mediterranean. ,nt to 14 million t condition of the dreadful contest it [vdra, in whom it ar, nor has it pro- In 1832, however, number. 50,000 men, con. manded by skilful loes not probably mostly of merchant ,out80sail. They war, and many ot the largest Turkish vescels were destroyed by means of fire- ships, the employment of which was, with the Greeks, a favourite mode of warfare. The great body of the people of Greece are destitute of educa- tion and knowledge, but they are anxious for improvement, and are eager to rise from the degradation consequent upon their long political servitude. The Greeks are an active, vigorous race of people, and are generally distinguished for their personal beauty ; their complexion is dark and clear, and their eyes ani- mated and brilliant. In their late contest with the Turks, they displayed a courage and bravery not unworthy their heroic ancestors. The religion of the Greeks is that of the church which bears their name. Though it retains the title of Christian, it is lament- ably fraught with ignorance and superstition, being a system of mere forms and ceremonies, with but little of the light or spirit of the Gospel. Strenuous exertions have been made for some time past, by several missionary and philanthropic societies in the United States and Great Britain, to improve the moral and spiritual condition of tiiis interesting people. Learning in Greece, where it once flourished with such unri- vailed splendour, had fallen into a state of total extinction. As soon, however, as the government had become settled, schools of mutual instruction were established in various places, and the formation of central schools and libraries, and of a university til Athens, was decreed. All these institutionj are yet only in their infancy; but there cannot be a doubt that the exertions now making for the improvement of the people of Greece, will result in elevating their intellectual character as a nation. Five newspapers and a periodical review are now published at Athens. The government chosen for this country, by the great European powers, is a limited monarchy, with a Senate and House of Re- presentatives. The selected sovereign is Otho, son of Charles Louis, of Bavaria. In 1833, he arrived in Greece, accompanied by a council of regency, and was acknowledged by the people as their sovereign. In June, 1838, Otho, being of age, took the direction of the affairs of state. He bears the title of the King of Greece. The administration of the national affairs has not, as yet. realized the expectations of the friends of Grecian liberty. The islands form a prominent and interesting appendage to Greece ; the principal of these are Negropont, the Cyclades, the >Sporades, the Ionian Islands, and Candia, — the two last are now, however, politically distinct. Negropont is a long, narrow island, 100 miles in length, and from six to twenty broad. It is separated from the continent by 88* 'i1 'i!|f'"#"» Ira »'i ■' * ' ■l.^":-, > 378 EUROPE. the strait of Egripo, which, in some places, is only a few- hundred feet wide, and is crossed by several bridges. The island is diversified by rugged mountains and fertile valleys. The capital, Negropont, has a population of 10,000 or 12,000, and is an important commercial town. The northern Sporades, lying north-east of Negropont, com- prise Skyro, Chelidonia, and some other islands. The Western Sporades, which lie along the east coast of the Morea, are Hydra, iSpezzia, Poros, Egina, &c. The two islands of Hydra and Spezzia, though little favoured by nature, have, in a singular manner, taken the lead of all the states and islands of Greece. The former, a rugged mass of rock, with scarcely a spot of verdure, contains about 40,000 in- habitants, many of whom have acquired considerable wealth. Their energies were, during the revolution, exclusively turned to war, and, perhaps, they will never regain their former extensive commerce. Spezzia is a sort of outwork of Hydra, with only 3000 inhabitants, yet with somewhat more of cultivation. Hydra, the capital of the island of the same name, is a well-built town, with about 20,000 inhabitants : it contains handsome houses and quays, and clean streets. The Cyclades, a numerous and celebrated group, are inter- posed between Candia and Asia Minor, but nearer to the continent, from which they recede in a south-east direction. Their aspect, bold, rocky, yet richly verdant, presents to the vessels sailing through it scenes of varied beauty. The principal of these are Paros, Antiparos, Naxio, Santorini, Milo, Argentera, Syra, An- dro, Sino, Zea, &c. The city of Syra, on the island of the same name, is the capital of the Cyclades, and one of the principal commercial places in Greece. Population, 25,000. Candia, lately ceded to the Pacha of Egypt, is generally con- sidered one of the Greek islands, and among the largest in the Mediterranean, being about 600 miles in circumference. The interior is covered with mountains, of which Mount Ida towers to a very lofty height.' The inhabitants of Candia are a fine active and spirited race, and were more independent of the Turkish government than the vassals of most other parts of the empire. Candia, the capital, has had its harbour choked up with sand, and the greater part of its trade has passed to Canea. It still bears the traces of a handsome town, with substantial houses formed into regular streets and squares ; but the havoc of its long siege, and subsequent desertion, give it a very gloomy aspect. The former event, protracted for twenty-three years, forms one of the most memorable eras in modern history. Canea is popu- lous and flourishing, having 15,000 inhabitants. Between Canea GREECE. moi only a few idges. The •tile valleys. or 12,000, ;ropont, com- Ihe Western 1, are Hydra, little favoured lead of all the praed mass of SSt 40,000 in- lerable wealth, ively turned to irmcr extensive ,dra, with only valion. Hydra, well-built town, ome houses and rroup, are inter- ■ to the continent, Their aspect, 3 vessels sailing ipal of these are ntera, Syra, An- land of the same , of the principal )00. is generally con- he largest in the umference. The )unt Ida towers to 1 are a fine active It of the Turkish ts of the empire, ked up with sand, o Canea. It stiU substantial houses t the havoc of Us ery gloomy aspect, e years, forms one Canea is popu- s. Between Canea and Candia is Retimo, a well-built town, situated in a delightful country abounding with olive-trc 38. Athens, the capital of modern Greece, was one of the most cele- brated cities of antiquity, and the birth-place of the most re- nowned orators, philosophers, and artists of ancient times. It was decorated with innumerable master-pieces of architecture and sculpture, and their remains are still sufficient, in spite of t!.e ravages of barbarous conquerors, to command the admiration of the world. The Parthenon, or Temple of Minerva, erected on a high rock called the Acropolis, is universally admitted to be a model of all that is grand, harmonious, &nd beautiful in archi- tecture. The other most remarkable remains are the temples of Jupiter Olympus and Theseus, the Lantern of Demosthenes, the Tower of the Winds, &c. The modern city occupies but a small part of the ancient Athens. It suffered much during the late war of the revolution. Population, 14,000 or 15,000. Napoli de Romani is the best-built town in the Morea. From its maritime situation and great natural strength, it must ever be one of the keys of Greece. Its harbour is good, and the com- merce considerable. Population, 15,000. Tripolizza, the Turkish capital of the Morea, was taken during the war and is now mostly in ruins : it contained four mosques, six Greek churches, and a bazaar, with a population of about 12,000. Navarino stands upon an excellent harbour, in the south-west part of the Morea. Here the Turkish naval power was completely destroyed by the combined fleets of Russia, France, and England, on the 20th October, 1828. Modon, in the same neighbourhood, has a good harbour, and considerable trade. Malvasia, on the eastern coast, stands on an island connected with the continent by a bridge. It has a strong citadel, and its neighbourhood pro- duces thQ wine called Malvaisia, or Malmsey. Corinth stands on the isthmus uniting the Morea to the conti- nent. It still exhibits the remains of its ancient walls and the citadel, or acro-corinthus. It formerly iiad a harbour on each side of the isthmus, but the only port is now on the Gulf of Le- panto. The houses are generally well built. Patras, at the entrance of the gulf, has a considerable commerce, and formerly was the residence of many European cons'ils. It suffered severely during the late contest, the country in its neighbourhood being ravaged by the contending armies. Missolonghi is without the Morea. It stands on the Gulf of Lepanto, opposite Patras. It was captured by the Greeks in 1821, re-captured after several attempts by the Turks, in 1825, and afterwards rescued by the Greeks. It is a fortified and important place. Here Lord Byron died, in 1824. Mi •Ill «fp« fm .fi^:':: 380 EUROPE. tn-'i >:■ : TURKISH EMPIRE. Turkey, or the Ottoman Empire, comprises two great divi- sions, Turkey in Europe and Turkey in Asia. It was once a powerful and influential state, but has within the last hundred years declined greatly in strength and importance. Though its territories have betni of late much diminished, it still forms an extensive region, stretching on the one hand from the Gulf of Venice to the Persian Gulf, and on the other from the Mediterranean to the Black Sea, containing an area of 677,000 square miles. It comprehends some of the finest and most fertile regions of the temperate zone, yet, owing to the oppressive nature of the government, many fertile districts have been almost depopulated, and the whole of the countries, comprising this empire, do not at present contain, probably, more than the one- third or fourth part of the inhabitants that peopled them in ancient times. The government of Turkey is thoroughly despotic : its pre- dominating principle is the subjection of the whole administration, civil, military, and religious, to the absolute disposal of one man. The sovereign is called the sultan or grand signior, and, some- times, the "Shadow of God," and «' Refuge of the World ;" he is considered as reigning by divine commission and uniting in himself all the powers of the state. The vizier, or prime minister, assisted by the divan, is the person upon whom devolves entirely, the exclusive administration of the government. The grand signior does not even, like some other oriental despots, make a show of sitting in judgment, but delegates that function also to his subordinate. The mufti is the head, or chief, of the ministers of law and religion. This body is called the ulema, or the learned ; they form the depository of the laws of the empire, and the only class who approach to the character of a national council. No great measure of state car. be regularly taken, or com- mand the respect of the empire, without a fetwa from the mufti. ' Justice is administered by the members of the ulema. Those in the large towns are termed mollahs, and in the smaller ones cadis. The court is called the Ottoman Porte, or Sublime Porte, and the divan is the great council of the nation. It is composed of the grand vizier, the mufti, the capidan pacha, the reis effendi, and other principal officers of state. The Seraglio is the court, or residence, of the sultan : it embraces an assemblage of noble palaces and edifices, in Con- TURKEY. 381 o great divi- t was once a last hundred diminished, it ,ne hand from :he other from ,reaof677,000 and most fertile jpressive nature e been almost comprising this e than the one- ,eopled them in Icspotic : its pre- le administration, nosalofoneman. nior, and, some- f the World ;" he )n and uniting m the divan, is the ,ive administration »ot even, like some in judgment, but The mufti is the lion. This body IS le depository of the o approach to the rly taken, or com- ,wa from the muftu eulema. Those in m the smaller ones Sublime Porte, and It is composed ot ha, the reis effendi, e, of the sultan : it Jd edifices, in Con- stantinople, several miles in circumference. Here are immured, AGO or 600 females, the most beautiful that can be found in the neighbouring realms of Europe and Asia. The pachas and tributary princes vie with each other in gifts of handsome women, which form the most eftectivc mode of gaining imperial favour. Out of these the sultan chooses seven, who are called kadunias, or favourites, and the rest are regarded merely as slaves. Important changes have, within a few years, taken place in the character and policy of the Turkish government. The late sultan, Mahmoud, organized his army and navy after those of the other European nations, and endeavoured to introduce their arts and sciences into his empire. Ho also presented in his own person innovations far beyond those of any other Turkish sovereign ; dressing in the European style, holding constant and familiar inter- course with the people, and receiving foreigners with the courte- sies and usages of polished life. The influence of his example has not as yet, however, been felt much beyond the walls of the capital. At Constantinople, a society has been formed for the promotion of useful knowledge, which publishes a monthly jour- nal, edited by a Turk, who studied in Paris. The opera has been introduced, and visiting between different families, after the Euro- pean manner, has been commenced amongst the better classes. The clothing of the Turks consisted, until lately, of long flow- ing robes, which concealed the limbs, and was unfavourable to any active exertion ; but these have been supplanted by a short tight jacket and pantaloons, and the turban, or covering of the head, by a cap. Less change has taken place in the dress of the women, and the face is still generally covered with a veil. A plurality of wives is allowed by the Mnhomedan laws, and is common with the rich. The poorer and ! li'ldle classes, however, seldom have more than one wife. The vomen of the higher classes are kept separate from male socieiy, having their own part of the house, from which the men are excluded. The Turks are Mahomedans of the Sonnite, or orthodox sect, • and have a great respect for everything connected with their I'cligion. Their reverence for the Koran is extreme, and they will stop and pick up a piece of paper in the street to see if it be not a fragment of that book. The Koran prescribes the attitude and time of prayer. The Turks, like all other Mussulmans, when they pray turn towards Mecca, and are much absorbed in their devotions, worshipping with great earnestness and fervour. They call those who do not believe their creed, dogs and infiviels, and formerly esteemed it lawful to reduce to subjection all who refused to be converted to their faith. They are even , ; ; > -*f" m'^m K:/ 'V Mm m ■ ■ ii ■ £ir."V'l.'.v i ' I ; ii 382 EUROPE. more intolerant towards the Persians, who, though professing the same religion, ditl'er from them in some respects, ond are called Sheahs,than towards Christians ; so that it is held to be as meri- torious to kill one Shcohas twenty Christians. The Turks arc grave and sedate in their manners, but extremely ignorant and bigoted, and so indolent, that nothing short of the strongest excitement will rouse them to activity. Smoking the pipe, lounging for hours cross-legged upon a cushion or sofa, and bathing, are the chief occupations of the better class. On entering a house the Turks take off their shoes, but do not uncover the head. At meals they use the fingers only, without knife or Ibrk. They do not sleep on beds, but on courhes, or carpets on the floor. They are temperate in eating and drinking : their food is not very luxurious; rice is much used, and when boiled with mutton or fowls, forms the favourite dish called pilau : pork and wine arc prohibited by the Koran, yet, in the latter, some sultans and great men have indulged deeply, but in general its use is confined to tho lowest ranks. Cotlbe is the principal beverage, though ardent spirits and opium are used to some extent. The latter is ollen taken to excess, ond those who become oddicted to its use in early life, generally fall- victims to its baneful influence before the age of forty. The Turks, or, as they call themselves, Osmanlis, are of Tartar origin, but have occupied their present position in Europe for the last four centuries. They are the ruling people in the Ottoman Empire ; yet, they constitute less than one half of the population. The rest of the inhabitants consist of Greeks, Albanians, Arme- nians, Jews, and Gypsies, with Turcomans, Arabs, and Kurds : tho three last arc inhabitants of Turkey in Asia. Europeans residing in the empire are known by the general name of Franks. There is no hereditary nobility in Turkey ; the only distinc- tion being that of oflice, and therefore personal ; but the Emirs, or descendants of Mahomet, have the exclusive right of wearing the green turban, and some other inconsiderable privileges. The military power of Turkey, formerly the terror of the most considerable states in Europe, is now despised by almost the meanest, and the time has passed away when the Janissaries, theSphahis, and the Dehlis, were thought to be invincible. The martial spirit and discipline of these troops had long been in a state of decay, and they were for many years, in consequence of their turbulent spirit, more formidable to their own sovereigns than to their enemies. The corps of Janissaries was annihilated in 1826, and the whole Turkish army modelled on that of the European system. It amounts nominally to between 200,000 TURKEY. 383 ifessing the are called bo as meri- anncrs, but hat nothing to activity, ged upon a ations of the ff their shoes, ,e the fingers beds, but on ir food is not d with mutton ,ork and wine ^e sultans and , use is confined .verage, though The latter is addicted to its ancful influence Us, are of Tartar n Europe for the in the Ottoman jf the population. Albanians, Arme- abs, and Kurds: Uia. Europeans name of Franks, the only distmc- l ; but the Emirs, e right of wearing ,\e privileges, terror of the most ged by almost the ,n the Janissaries, JO invincible, ine lad long been ma -rs, in consequence ,eir own sovereigns ■•ies was annihila ed led on that of the Setween 200,000 and 300,000 men, but the troops are in general badly armed and undisciplined. The navy consists of 15 ships of the line, 18 frigates, and four steum-shius. This force, however, is but indifTorontly organized and ill manned. The various provinces of the Turkish dominions are governed by chiefs, called Fnchus, or Pashus, who are despotic in their respective jurisdictions, and oilen rebel against their master, especially whenever they can entertain the expectation of b<>itig successful. The Pachas, of the highest rank, are entitled to have a banner of three horse-tails ; those of the second rank, of two ; and those of the third rank, of one ; hence they are called. Pachas of three tails, of two tails, or one tail, or sangiacs. The governors, or Pachas, are often the more favourites of some of the great officers of state, and arc frequently men of no ability or experience, and destitute of integrity. Their incapacity and venality have, in consequence, assisted in paralyzing the vigour and destroying the effective power of the state. Turkey has now no weight among the nations of Europe : its political preponderance has been succeeded by a proportional decline, and it is unable to defend its territories, not only from the invasion of foreign foes, but from those who were lately its own subjects. The dissolution, or dismemberment of the empire, will undoubtedly soon take place. The unwieldy and tottering edifice already trembles to its foundation, and nothing but the political emulation or mutual jealousy of the great European powers will prevent its utter downfall. TURKEY IN EUROPE. Turkey in Europe, the smallest of the two great divisions oi the Ottoman empire, is bounded north by Austria, south by tne sea of Marmora, the Archipelago, and the kingdom of Greece, cast by the Black Sea and Russia, and west by the Mediterranean Sea, the Gulf of Venice, and Austria. It extends from north- east to south-west 750, and from north-west to south-east 700 miles. Area, 207,000 square miles. The mountains of European Turkey consist chiefly of that extensive range, stretching eastward from the Alps, called the Balkan, DeSpoto-Dag, and Argentari mountains, forming a con- tinuous chain from the head of the Gulf of Venice to the Black Sea. The Pindus mountains are a branch of the former, extend- ing southwardly into Greece. The Danube is the largest river of this region, and flows :!:■! il.:j|'i ■ , 4'] "^■IPIUP 364 EUROPE. f.f. ' »f!- Blr.v through the country for nn extent of 600 miles. The Maritza and Vurdar, which empty into the Archipelago, and the Save, Morava, Iskor, Aluta, Soreth, iiad Pruth, are tributaries of the Danube. Although some provinces of this division of tlio Ottoman em> pire are barren and rugged, yet fertility is the i^oneral character* istic of the country. The soil of Romelia, and other parts in the south, is more fruitful thun the richest plainn of Italy ; and, with comparatively easy cultivation, produce harvests more abundant than the most fertde districts of France. There are few coun- tries, indeed, us to soil and climate, to whi(;h Providence has been so bountiful, and which have been so cursed by the neglect and indolence of man. Agriculture in European Turkey is depressed at once by arbi- trary exactions and the devastations consequent on frequent wars in many of the finest provinces ; yet its productions are various and valuable, and comprise Indian-corn, wheat, rice, cotton, oil, fruits, &c. Bees innumerable are reared, and yield a profusion of honey and wax ; fine white silk is produced in Bulgaria, and oround Adri- anople. The horses and cattle are generally large and fine ; the former are from the Arabian stock : the steep sides and valleys among the mountains are covered with vast flocks of sheep, the wool of which, though course, affords, from its great quantity, a large export. There arc but few manufactures In this country. Turkey leather is made in great perfection at Gallipoli and sevcrul other towns, and silk in some places, but to a limited extent. The commerce is confined almost wholly to Constantinople. The exports are wool, butliilo hides, skins, Turkey leather, wax, drugs, silk, cotton, &lc. The pride of the Turks, and their oriental habits, has rendered them hitherto little dependent on the products and manufactures of the West. There are, however, imported American and English cotton goods. New England rum, sugar, coffee from the West Indies, under the disguise of Mocha, together with glass, porcelain, and other brilliant fabrics for the harem. From the Black Sea and the Caspian, are brought slaves in con- siderable numl)crs, together with a vast quantity of salt fish and caviare, or the prepared roes of sturgeon. The grand divisions of Turkey in Europe, are Romelia in the south, Albania and Bosnia in the west, Servia and Bulgaria in the centre, and Wallochia and Moldavia in the north, beyond the Danube. The population of tho whole is about nine millions : of this amount, Wallachia contains 1,000,000, Moldavia 550,000, and Servia 450,000 : total of the three last provinces two millions, leaving under the actual sovereignty of the sultan seven milliotis of subjects. -■ I TURKEY. 385 [aritza and o, Morava, Uunube. .toman em- character- parts in the ; und, with abundant ) few coun- videnco has the neglect nee by arbi- quentwarsin 3 various and >n, oil, fruits, jion of honey oround Adri- and fine } the s and valleys of sheep, the lat quantity, a iry. Turkey i and several imitcd extent, intinople. The er, wax, drugs, their oriental on the products /ever, imported nd rum, sugar, klocha, together for the harem. it slaves in con- of salt fish and . Romelia in the and Bulgaria in orth, beyond the line millions : of jldavia 650,000, ices two millions, in seven million Wallachia, MoiiDAviA, and ^rnviA, hardly form, at present, a part of the Turkish empire, bem^ governed by their own princes, and arc in all respects independent, except that they niiy a fixwl tribute to the Porte. They have their own laws, religion, and a separate administration. The |)coplo are much oppressed by thoir rulers, and are very ignorant and superstitious j they aro mostly of the Greek church : there are, however, many Gypsies, Jews, and Greeks, in these countries. Constantinople, the capital of Turkey, occupies a most striking and commanding site. Its situation is as beautiful and com- modious, as the port is spacious and admirable. The city itself, rising on seven hills, along the shore of the Bosphorus, embo- somed in groves, from amid which numerous gilded domes ascend to u lolly height, presents a most magnificent spectacle. But the moment the interior is entered, all the magic of the scene disappears. The streets are narrow, ill-paved, and crowded; tho houses low and gloomy ; und the hills, which appeared majestic in the view, causing steep ascents and descents, prove excessively inconvenient. But the most fatal circumstanue in the structure of Constantinople is, that tho houses of rich and poor are alike entirely composed of wood, while chimneys are not generally used, and their place supplied by vessels of brass or earth put under the feet. These circumstances, joined to the usual improvidence of the Mahomedans, cause most tremendous conflagrations. It is reckoned that Constantinople rises entire from its ashes in the course of every fideen years; but no advantage is e.'er taken of the circumstance to improve its aspect. The fallen streets aro immediately reconiitructed with all their imperfections, and the houses rebuilt of the same fragile materials. This city contains, however, some structures that are very magnificent. Among them stands foremost the mosque of 8t. Sophia, account- ed the finest in the world, first built as a church by Justinian, and converted by the conquering Turks to its present use. The mosques of Sultan Achmet and of Suloyman are equally vast and splendid, but not marked by tho same classic taste. The numerous minarets are in general airy and elegant, and add greatly to the beauty of the city. Constantinople is undergoing changes a8 remarkable as they were unexpected. Christian manners and habits are rapidly taking the place of the ancient national sentiments and usages ; the people, but recently indolent and incurious, now read with avidity the daily newspapers printed in the capital, and are rapidly becoming enlightened by the realities of passing events. Should recent innovations proceed with like rapidity hereafter, all the dis- 33 s- ,. , : Si* U-: f.r- H f. 380 EUROPE. tinctive peculiarities of a Turkish city will soon merge in the uniformity of European rule and order. Adrianople is a large city, five miles in circumference, and containing about 100,000 inhabitants. There are several ancient palaces, and a splendid mosque, but the streets are narrow and crooked, the houses ill-built of brick and mud. The ancient strength of its fortifications has gone into decay. Gallipoli, on the Strait of the Dardanelles, is also a large and commodious place, with 17,000 inhabitants. Sophia is the seat of a great inland trade between Salonica and the interior countries of the empire : its inhabitants amount to 40,000. A chain of fortresses on the Danube, large and strongly for- tified, formed long the main bulwarks of the Turkish empire. The chief are, Widin, Giurgevo, Nicopoli, Rustschuk, and Silistria. They are all of nearly similar character, extensive and populous, uniting with their importance as military stations, that derived from an extensive trade along the Danube. Shumla forms rather a chain of rudely entrenched positions than a regular fortress ; yet such is the obstinacy with which the Turks defend such situations, that this city has repeatedly baffled the utmost efforts of the Russian army. Population, 30,000. Varna, a port en the Black Sea, is also a leading military station, and was the theatre of a signal victory gaired by Amurath the Great over the Hungarian troops. The capital of Servia is Belgrade, a fortress of extraordinary strength, long considered the key of Hungary, and disputed with the utmost obstinacy between the Austrians and the Turks. It is now equally distinguished as a seat of inland commerce, being the great entrep6t between Turkey and Germany. It contains 30,000 inhabitants. Serajevo, capital of Bosnia, is still larger, containing a popu> lation of 60,000. It traffics in arms and jewelry, and receives numerous caravans from Constantinople. Jassy, the capital of Moldavia, is situated in the interior of the country, amid a marshy district, which renders it unhealthy. Population, 28,000. Bu- charest, the capital of Wallachia, is a large city, containing about 80,000 souls. It is built upon a dismal swamp ; to render the streets passable over which, they are covered with boards. Here European and Oriental dress and manners unite in nearly equal proportions. Joanina the capital of Albania, has a very picturesque situation on a lake, surrounded by lofty mountains, and is supposed to contain a population of 35,000. The houses are irregularly built, intermingled with gardens and trees. A great proportion of the inhabitants is Greek. ASIA. ',m nerge in the nference, and jveral ancient 3 narrow and The ancient so a large and (veen Sa\onica bitants amount d strongly for- 'urkish empire, jk, and f'ilistria. c and populous, ns, that derived Shumla forms than a regular (le Turks defend tffled the utmost D. Varna, a port fion, and was the ^e Great over the f extraordinary d disputed with the Turks. U commerce, being ,ny. It contains ontaining a popu- Iry, and receives sy, the capital of V, amid a marshy in, 28,000. Bu- .containing about np ; to render the ;red with boards. Ts unite in nearly Ibania, has a very V lofty mountams, boo. The houses ,QS and trees. A ASIA. Asia is the largest and most populous division of the eastern continent, being more extensive in area, and containing a greater number of inhabitants, than Europe and Africa united. This part of the earth is supposed to have been the scene of the creation of man ; and, after the deluge, it becaiaae a second time the nursery of the world. In Asia the chief part of the important and interesting events, recorded in the sacred Scriptures, took place. Here the patriarchs performed their pilgrimages, tlie prophets proclaimed the will of Heaven to man, and the Redeemer appeared, died, and rose again from the dead. Here, also, civilization, learning, and the arts, had their eominencement ; the first temples were erected, and the wor- ship of the Most High was celebrated, while Europe, and other parts of the earth, were unknown and unexplored. The vast expanse of Asia, stretching through almost eighty de- grees of latitude, presents every variety of surface, soil, and climate. It is encompassed by the sea on nearly every side, being washed on the north by the Arctic, on the east by the Pacific, and on the south by the Indian Ocean, and is bounded on the west by the Red, the Mediterranean, and the Black seas. This great region is estimated at 6000 miles in extent, from east to west, and about 5000 from north to south ; comprising an area of 16,000,000 square miles, or about one-third part of tlie land surface of the globe. Every thing in Asia is on a vast scale; its mountains, its rivers, its plains, and its deserts. The grandest feature, and one which makes a complete section of this great region, is an extensive chain of mountains, which, under various names, but with very little interruption, crosses the continent from the Mediterranean Sea to the Pacific Ocean, an extent of 5800 miles. The Taurus, Elborz, and the Himmaieh mountains arc the best known portions of this mighty range. On one side it has Southern Asia, the finest and most extensive plain in the world, covered with the rich- est tropical products, watered by magnificent rivers, and filled with populous nations and great empires. On the other side, it serves as a bulwark to the wide table-land of Thibet, which, though under the latitude of the south of Europe, has many of the characteristics of a northern region. To the northward are the three almost parallel chains of the Kuen-lun, the Thian-chan, and the Altay mountains ; these, though imperfectly explored, are known to be of great elevation, varying i«i '■■■f r >. 388 ASIA. n '■ I'-C '' , V.'; ■• imy'A "I from 12,000 to 20,000 foet in height, and ranging thousands of miles in extent. The Ural mountains, which separate European from Asiatic Russia, and the Ghauts of Hindoostan, are the prin- cipal of the secondary chains. Central Asia comprises several large lakes or inland seas, salt like the ocean, receiving considerable rivers and having no outlet. These are the Caspian, the Aral, the Balcash, and others of lesser magnitude. No part of the eastern continent has so many rivers of the first order, some of which are inferior in extent only to the vast water- courses of the New World. The principal rivers of the northern part of Asia, are the Obe, the Irtysh, the Yenesei, and the Lena: these gloomy streams, flowing into the Arctic Ocean, and bound by almost perpetual frost, afford little aid either to agriculture or the intercourse of nations. The Euphrates, the Indus, the Ganges, and the Irrawaddy, empty into the Indian Ocean, and the Meinam and Cambodia into the Pacific. They are the chief rivers of Southern Asia, and flow through and fertilize some of the most populous and proiluctive countries in the world. The Yang-tse Kiang, and the Hoang Ho, rising in the high mountainous regions of Central Asia, take their course eastwardly across the Empire of China, to whose prosperity they mainly con- tribute, and fall into the Pacific Ocean. The Amoor runs in the same direction through Northern Tartary, but without any advan- tage to that barren district. Lastly, the Sihon, the Amoo, the Ural, and others of lesser magnitude, flow along the great plains of Western Tartary, but, unable to reach the ocean, expand into the Aral, the Caspian, and other inland seas. Asia is distinguished for the great variety of its rich vegetable productions. In the warmer regions, rice, indigo, Indian-corn, dhourra, and millet, are the chief agricultural staples. In the more temperate regions, wheat and other grains are produced, and barley and oats are raised as far north as sixty degrees of latitude, and, also, on the elevated plains of the more southern districts. The tea shrub is indigenous to China, Japan, and Assam, and the coffee to Arabia. The sugar-cane is produced in India, and the poppy plant furnishes great quantities of opium for exportation. The cotton shrub, and mulberry tree, grow throughout the south- ern regions. Asia, likewise, furnishes other parts of the earth with cinnamon, cloves, mace, nutmegs, pepper, camphor, the fra- grant balm of Mecca, and also many various kinds of medicinal plants and dye-stuffs. Asia is rich in mineral productions, and yields all the useful and precious metals, but the wealth of the Asiatic mines has not been ASIA. 389 thousands of ite European are the prin- and seas, salt ling no outlet. thers of lesser ers of the first the vast water- jf the northern and the Lena: ean, and bound agriculture or the Irrawaddy, 1 Cambodia into n Asia, and flow J and productive sing in the high ;ourse eastwardly they mainly con- moor runs in the ithout any advan- , the Amoo, the ' the great plains ;ean, expand into , Us rich vegetable dieo, Indian-corn, I staples. In the are produced, and degrees of latitude, Uhern districts. L and Assam, and luced in India, and mm for exportation. roughout the south- ' parts of the earth • camphor, the Ira- kinds of medicinal Ids all the useful and 1 mines has not been fully explored. Gold and silver are found in Siberia, Thibet, China, Japan, and India ; quicksilver in Japan, China, and Cey- lon ; tin in China; and iron, lead, copper, coal, and salt, abound in various Asiatic countries. Hindoostan produces the finest dia- monds in the world ; they are found, also, to some extent in Siberia, and the ruby, amethyst, turquois, &c., are met with in various quarters. Asia has always been remarkable for the number and variety of its animals : the larger species are more numerous than in other quarters of the earth, and nearly all the domestic kinds known amongst civilized nations, had their origin in this region. The elephant, though never bred in a tame stace, may be placed at the head of its domestic animals. From time immemorial this quadruped has been used in war by the people of India, and for the purposes of travelling, bearing heavy burdens, &c. Its ser- vices appear to be universal, and it is as essential to the Indian sportsman, as a good horse to an English fox-hunter. Domestica- tion has so far subdued the instinct of nature, that tame elephants arc employed to dncoy and catch their wild brethren. Immense tr(»o|«! of the latter still roam over the northern parts of India, io Ceylon, Chin-India, particularly in Laos, and, probably, in all the larger of the neighbouring islands. White elephants are occasionally met with . They are, how- ever, so rare, that the king of Siam considered the possession of six individuals, at one time, a circumstance peculiarly auspicious to his reign. They are believed to contain the spirit of some de- parted monarch, and, as such, have the rank and title of a king, and have, also, numerous attendants, who wait on and feed them with the greatest care and solicitude. When taken abroad, the people, both in Siam and Birmah, are obliged to prostrate them- selves, as before their actual sovereign. The common domestic animals of Asia, present greater varieties of species than those of any other region ; and though no longer found, except in a few instances, in a state of nature, are still pro- verbial for their symmetry and vigour. In Arabia, particularly, the horse is, of all other animals, the object of most especial care and value. In no other part of the world does he display so much gentleness, intelligence, and spirit. The nomadic and pas- toral nations which have, from time immemorial, occupied the plains of Asia, may be said to live almost on horseback ; and, in- deed, it would be almost impossible for them to carry on their j)redatory expeditions, or to traverse the vast steppes of the central districts, without the aid of this noble animal. His flesh, also, supplies them with their favourite food, and the milk of the irvire is the greatest dainty of a Tartar feast. 33* •.'.■ ■>, 300 ASIA. 1^ '■'■■■' ■^ ■■■. J «■.'■(. m lb., ' . I ■;t 3.^"' -I' I. t 'til. ' i«!. ■ fiii; The ass of Persia, Syria, and the Levant, is greatly superior to thesurne animal in Europe; it approaches nearer to the large size of the horse, and partakes much of his beautiful symmetry of form, noble carriage, and unrivalled speed. The camel and dromedary are, no doubt, of Asiatic origin. The former, distinguished by two humps, is found chiefly, if not solely, among the wandering Tartars, from the confines of Siberia to the northern ridges of the Himmnleh mountains ; whilst the dromedary spreads not only over Arabia, Syria, Mesopotamia, and Persia, but extends into India, and probably even into China, and is also widely spread over all the northern and sandy parts of Africa. Of the ox kind, four distinct varieties have been, from time im- memorial, domesticated in different parts of Asia. The common Indian ox is the usual beast of draught and burden in Hindoostan, and, from its great speed, is frequently used for the saddle, even by Europeans. The yak has been long domesticated in the cen- tral parts of the continent, and especially among the Tartars. The buffalo, common in India and China, supplies the inhabitants with milk and butter. The fourth species, the gayal, frequent among the Burmese and in Thibet, is also found wild in many parts, and is, in that state, a formidable animal, being as much dreaded by the native hunters as the tiger. The varieties of sheep and goats are numerous in Asia. The broad-tailed sheep is widely dispersed. The tail is the best part of the animal, for the flesh is dry and insipid ; and, instead of wool, the body is covered v/ith a short coarse hair. From the fleece of the shawl-goat of Cashmere, the Indians manufacture those rich and valuable shawls which are so highly esteemed in Europe, as well as throughout the East. The Angora goat is an inlerior variety of the shawl-goat, whose long wool is of a tolerably fine texture, but not adapted to the same purposes as the richer wool of the Cashmerian animal. Among the carnivorous animals, are three or four species of bears. These are found chiefly in the mountains and plains of India. Besides which, the common brown bear of Europe, and the white or polar bear, abound in Siberia, Kamschatka, and the shores of the Frozen Ocean. The tiger, the most savage and formidable of all the rapacious animals, exists only in southern Asia, and the neighbouring isles. He is fearless of man, ferocious and blood-thirsty, and will kill and drag off a horse or a buffalo with great ease. Hunting the tiger, by sportsmen mounted on elephants, is a favourite amuse- ment ; it is, however, dangerous, and frequently attended with loss of lile. The leopard and panther are common in the forests of India. The lion also has been lately found in the province of ASIA. SOI ly superior to the large size metry ol' form, ic oTigin. The J, if not solely, [ Siberia to the , the dromedary ia, and Persia, ina, and is also t3 of Africa. I, from time im- The common 1 in Hindoostan, the saddle, even cated in the cen- ng the Tartars, ■s the inhabitants ; gayal, frequent nd wild in many I, being as much )us in Asia. The is the best part ot , instead of wool, ?rom the fleece of jfacture those rich med in Europe, as .oat is an inlerior 'of a tolerably fine as the richer wool or four species of tains and plains ol ear of Europe, and imschatka, and the )f all the rapacious : neighbouring isles- ;hirsty, and vy.ll M ease. Hunting the a favourite amuse- lY attended with loss ,on in the forests of in the province o\ Gujerat in Hindoostan, but, unlike the African variety, he is with- out a mane, and appears to be altogether a much less formidable animal. The striped hyena is common in all the warmer parts of the continent, and various species of wild dogs and foxes are everywhere abundant. Two different species of rhinoceros are known to inhabit the continent of India, and the great islands contiguous to the Malayan peninsula. The continental, or one-horned species, is a common inhabitant of the swampy banks of all the great rivers. Thicker and more unwieldy, for his size, than the elephant, he exhibits, in confinement, much of the singular sagacity observed in that gigan- tic animal. It is in a wild state only that the bodily strength of this creature can be fully estimated, and this is frequently displayed in a surprising degree. Its power is sufficient to overcome the active ferocity of the lion, and the ponderous strength of the ele- phant, but this is only exerted in self-defence. The rhinoceros derives all his food from the vegetable kingdom, and is quiet and peaceable when left to himself. The varieties of deer are numerous, while the antelopes are but scanty. Of the former, one species, the Thibet musk, is pecu- liar. It is about the size of a small goat. Both sexes are without horns ; but the musk is produced by the male only. This perfume has always been held in high esteem throughout the East, and when genuine and pure, is said to be sometimes sold for its weight in gold. There arc also several kinds of gazelles, one species of which furnishes the poet with a favourite metaphor; gazelle-eyed being one of the highest complimentary epithets that can be be- stowed upon a lady. The birds of Asia are of great variety, and many of them of splendid plumage. The })eacock is the glory of Indian ornithology, and is, without doubt, the most superb bird in creation. It occurs in the greatest profusion over the extensive plains of India, where it grows to a much larger size than with us, and where domesti- cated individuals occur sometimes of a pure "'hite colour. Our well-known common fowls were brought originally from India, and are still found in its jungles, and forests; while in the adjacent islands of Malaysia, other varieties exist, more beautiful than those domesticated with us. The pheasants are of numerous species. The cassowary is a native of Chin-India, and the large islands of Malaysia. Like the ostrich, it does not fly, but uses its wings as an assistance in running. Its speed is great, and it nearly equals that bird in size, and is distinguished by the same voracious ap- petite. Parroquets and parrots are numerous. Many of the latter are eminently beautiful, and one, the vernal parrot, is not larger than ■womp m 392 ASIA. M -. ' '^'■'■i Hk ' '. ■■;>'¥ p- ' ■ '"-"It i..: • 1,.; ^s ''r;^ "' ||l [:| ■ ^ "■»:';' » :,'';'f;,: |j ''■■>. .f ,' ?!^ fj:': [ !]'■'. ' ■ ■ ,' 'X'.'- te•^ ; ■ ■ . ^. q- ■■■ V'i'i :f'r! ■ •:>• 'i/. :';■': ■ k ■■ ■ -j l-i-^|:P^ ii ■■ :^^li :§? /1i a sparrow. The gigantic crane, in its uncommon voracity, and in the nature oi'its food, is completely a bird of prey. It is suffi- ciently high, when walking, to appear like a native Indian. There is a multitude of other birds in Asia, many of which are remark- able for their rich plumage or their pleasing songs. Some of the spicy groves are the haunts of beautifully coloured pigeons, parrots, and other gay birds, which impart peculiar splendour to these regions of perpetual summer. The reptiles of Asia are exceedingly numerous, and of great va- riety of species. In the rivers of India are found large crocodiles, different from those of Africa. The serpents are various, and many are of the most deadly nature : one species, only an inch and a half long, is said to destroy the person bitten by causing an unconquerable and deadly sleep. The southern regions and islands are inhabited by others of a very large size, as the great python, usually considered the same with the boa constrictor of the New World, and the Anaconda, most common in Ceylon, said to be of sufficient bulk and strength to destroy an animal of considerable size in its deadly folds. The celebrated hooded- snake, or cobra de capello, is peculiar to India, and, with other species, is well known to be tamed by the Indian jugglers. The insects of Asia arc inferior in number and variety only to those of the New World. The atlas beetle, near five inches in length, from its size and singularity of shape, is among the most remark- able of its kind. The splendid buprestis vittata, with many others of equal size and beauty, are so much admired by the Chinese, that they are kept in cages when alive, and, when dead, are used as ornaments for dress. AH the varieties of the silk-worm are found in Asia: one species alone has been introduced into Eiirope. The white-wax insect, found in China, is remarkable for producing a white powder, that is imparted to the stems of the plants on which it is found ; the natives collect this, and melt it with vege- table oil, which, when cold, becomes as firm as bees'-wax, and, when made into candles, is reckoned superior to that article. The useful arts are pursued, in many Asiatic countries, with ex- pertness and diligence. Agriculture is carried on with great industry and care in China and Japan, though by less skilful methods and ^vith much ruder implements than in Europe. In Turkey, Persia, and some other countries of Asia, the art of hus- bandry has no doubt declined in modern times. In India, the soil is fertile beyond most parts of the earth ; it requires but little ex- ertion in its cultivation, and, in consequence, but few eflbrts have been made at improvement. Among several Asiatic nations manufactures of various kinds have reached u high state of perfection, and though conducted ASIA. 393 i-acity, and It is auffi- in. There ire remavk- Jome of the jns, parrots, )ur to these of great va- re crocodiles, various, and only an incli ,y causing an jegions and !, as the great constrictor of 1 Ceylon, said an animal of >rated hooded- nd, with other igglers. variety only to nches in length, |e most remark- th many others by the Chinese, end, are used ailk-worm are ;ed into K-irope. e for producing ■ the plants on ,elt it with vege- bees'-wax, and, hat article. )untrie8,withex- on with great by less skilful in Europe. In t, the art of hus- In India, the soil lires but little ex- few efforts have of various kinds though conducted with small capitals and simple machinery, arc scarcely equalled m richness and beauty by those of any other parts of the world. All the efforts of European art have been unable fully to imitate the carpets of Persia, the muslins of India, the porcelain of China, or the lacquered wares of Japan. Commerce, though much restricted by the jealousy of the prin- cipal sovereigns, is still very active, and a lucrative trade has been carried on in Asia from the earliest times. The internal com- merce, by caravans, though not so important as that by sea, is yet very considerable. The foreign trade, particularly that with China and India, is chiefly in the hands of the English and Ame- ricans, and is extensive and valuable. Asia, at a very early period, previous even to the commence- ment of authentic history, appears to have made a vast stride in civilization ; but then she came to a stand, and has sufliered herself to be far outstripped by the originally less advanced nations of Europe. The people of this quarter are remarkable for the tena- city with which they adhere to their ancient customs and super- stitions. In almost every nation they dress, live, and act as they did thousands of years ago. The life of the patriarchs, as described in the sacred Scriptures, is still found unchanged in the Arab tent. The appearance and manners of the inhabitants of Asia, are different from those of Europe and the United States. Instead of our tight short clothes, they generally wear long flowing robes, wrapped loosely round the body. In entering a house, or wishing to show respect, where we uncover the head they uncover the feet. They make no use of chairs, tables, knives, or forks. At meals, they seat themselves cross-legged on the floor, and eat out of a large wooden bowl, filled usually with stews and sweetmeats. An Asiatic, on going to sleep, merely spreads a mat, adjusts his clothes in a certain position, and lays himself down. The household furniture is exceedingly simple, consisting of little more than carpets covering the room, and sofas set around it, both of which, among the higher classes, are of peculiar beauty and fineness. Their attire is also simple, though composed, among the rich, of fine materials, and profusely ornamented with jewels and pre- cious stones. Their arms, and the trappings of their horses, are also objects on which they make a studied display of magnificence. In their disposition and temper, the people of Asia are mostly grave, serious, and recluse : they have no numerous assemblages or places of amusement, and they regard that lively social inter- course, in which Europeans and Americans delight, as silly and frivolous. Their domestic attachments are strong, and their rever- iua 394 ASIA. l,: ■.i . i ' i 1" P-'; :.. l!. ' v^ ■;.i:t ,!«; J^!* once for ancestry deep. Their deportnr>ent is usually mild and courteous ; and they often show themselves capable of generous and benevolent actions. Amongst eastern nations generally, the women are kept in igno- rance, and are not taught reading and writing. They live, in a great measure, in strict retirement ; and never go abroad without being closely veiled. They are, likewise, us in many quarters of Asia, regarded as slaves ; and, in some parts, much of the hard labour, |)erformed by the stronger sex in civilized countries, falls to their share. The practice of polygamy prevails to a great extent in nearly all divisions of this region; though in Thibet, an opposite system obtains; where the woman may have several husbands at the same time, and enjoy a corresponding share of influence. But this is evidently a capricious exception to the general rule. The governments of hII the countries of Asia are of the most despotic character ; anu ihe idea of a republic, a representative assembly, or a limited control of any kind, except in some very peculiar circumstances, is quite foreign to the ideas of an Asiatic. The niimber of tribes, chiefs, and princes, who practise plunder and robbery us a regular pursuit, is a feature which strongly marks this quarter of the world. It is generally carried on in an open manner, on a great scale, and even as a meritorious and laudable profession ; and some nations derive from it a large share of their subsistence. The Arabs, Tartars, Kurds, &;c., are the most noted of the predatory nations. Asia comprises probably a greater number of different races of men than any other quarter of the world. The Asiatic nations belong either to the barbarous or half-civilized class of the human family ; and few, except the wandering tribes on the shores of the Arctic Ocean, are in a savag'^ condition. The state of education and learning, in Asia, is greatly inferior to what is Hnind among the nations of Europe and America. In Mahomedan countries, there are many schools, conducted by the moollahs, or priests, whose main object is to teach the young to read and write the Arabic of the Koran, only. Hence, even those who are esteemed to be well educated, are comparatively igno- rant and uninformed. In India, Japan, and China, the people are generally taught reading and writing ; and, in the latter country, high attainments in the national literature are a sure passport to power and distinction. The peculiar state of the written lan- guage, however, and the total absence of correct principles, in the sciences taught in China, render the real knowledge obtained but small in amount. A high profession of religion generally distinguishes the nations y,vi ASIA. HVo ly mild and of generous keptinigno- hey live, in a broad without ,y quarters of :h of the hard :ountries, falU nt«nt in nearly pposite system isbands at the influence. But ■ral rule. ire of the most 1 representative pt in some very s of an Asiatic. practise plunder which stronsrly carried on in an t meritorious and fn it a large share •ds, &c., are the different races of ,e Asiatic nations lass of the human the shores ol the is greatly inferior and America. 1" conducted by the teach the young to 1 Hence, even those omparatively igno- lina, the people are [the latter country, 8 a sMxe passport to kf the written lan- cet principles, in the /ledge obtamed but Luishes the nations of Asia; and tho name of God is always in the mouths of the |)eo- pie. But, whether Mahomedan or Pagan, their systems of ih'th are marked by an excess of bigotry, ignorance, and superstition. The divine religion of the Redeemer, though first revealed to Asia, has not maintained its ground, except in a very limited de- gree. Mahomedanism has been established over all the western kingdoms, as far as the Indus, and even to some extent beyond that stream. The great majority of the rest of the inhabitants are Pagans ; whose modes of worship embrace many forms of idolatry, com* prising various cruel and degrading ceremonies, and doctrines of the most absurd nature. They generally allow the existence of one Supreme Being; who in China, is called Fo; in Thibet, the Grand Lama ; in Hindoostan, Brahma ; and in Birmah, &c., Buddha, or Gaudama. The Almighty is believed, by all the Pagan nations of Asia, to be perfectly indifferent to the concerns of the world, and of man- kind ; and likewise, that he h^*coi7nCiitted the government of all things to a multitude of inferior divinities, who are mostly the avowed patrons of cruelty, obscenity, and every kind of wick- edness. To gain the supposed favour of these false gods, their deluded worshippers oileti use the most odious rites, subject them- selves to many voluntary tortures, and plunge into all kinds of sinful indulgences. Of the vast population of Asia, the Pagans number, probably* 360 millions ; the Mahomedans, 80 millions ; and the Christians.; Jews, &c., 10 millions. For the conversion and instruction of the benighted myriads of Asia, the benevolence and enterprise of some of the Christian nations of Europe and America have been, for a number of years past, powerfully exerted. The scriptures, wholly or in part, havo been translated and distributed, in all the most popular eastern languages ; and many missionary stations have bc'^n establisht '. These, in connection with the schools founded at various points, and the influence of the press, will, no doubt, in time enlighten the nations, and lead to the spiritual and moral redemption of this great region. All estimates made of the area of the different countries of Asia, and of the number of the inhabitants, are uncertain, and founded on imperfect data. An authorized census of the population of China has been made ; and also, of Siberia : but the vast amount of the former renders it liable to the suspicion of being exaggerated ; and, in the latter case, the immense extent of the country, the scattered state of the population, and the wandering habits of its rude tribes, make it of doubtful authority. %1 1 ' ' }\-' ■■ '■■if ' .'tifirU, ■- I ?!>,,;. r- i.'j ' ■ 9M ASIA. The following statement is an average of the enumerations made by various approved writers: S<|uaro Milca. Topulution. Asiatic Russiu Independent Tartary • • Turkey Syria und Paleitine . . . . Arabia Persia AFjifhanistan BcloochiBtan Hindooatan Eastern, or ChinJndia. Chinese Empire Japan 5,300,00U 10,000,000 690,000 6,600,000 370,000 8,000,000 60,000 2,000,000 990,000 8,000 000 470,000 8,000,000 340,000 6,000,000 200,000 1,500,000 1,200,000 140,000,000 920,000 20,000.000 5,200,000 226,000,000 260,000 14,000,000 16,000,000 450,000,000 ! « .i:->: ■! far 4 ASIATIC RUSSIA. Asiatic Russia is an immense tract of country, stretching from the Black Sea to the Pacific ocean, and from the Arctic ocean on the north, to the borders of the Chinese Empire, Independent Tar- tary, Persia, and Turkey, on the south ; exhibiting a length of 5400, and a breadth of from 200 to 1800 miles ; and containing an area of probably 5,300,000 square miles. This region comprises Siberia, together with the territories lying on both sides of the Volga river, and north of the Caspian Sea ; also, those traversed by the great chain of the Caucasus, and situ- ated between the Caspian and Black Seas. The population of the whole does not probably exceed 10,000,000 souls. SIBERIA. Siberia occupies the most northern section of Asia, and con- tains nearly a third part of its surface. A considerable portion of this country is included within the limits of the Frozen Zone ; and it forms, in consequence, one of the most forlorn and desolate regions on the globe. Its extent, from the Ural mountains to Bhering's strait, is not less than 4000 miles ; and, from the Arctic ocean to the Altay mountain3, from 1000 to 1800 miles; comprising an area of nearly 5,000,000 square miles. The population of this great ASIATIC RUSSIA. 307 rations made Population. ti,ftOO,000 8,000,000 2,000,000 8,000 000 8,000,000 6,000,000 1,500,000 140,000,000 20,000,000 226,000,000 14,000,000 "^0,000,000 , stretching from ! Arctic ocean on Independent Tar- [ting a length of and containing ic ^ territories lying the Caspian Sea; awcasus, and situ- he population ol souls. ■ of Asia, and con- jnsiderable portion [the Frozen Zone; forlorn and desolate Line's strait, is not locean to the Altay Arising an area ot [ation of this great region \a extremely thin, and widely scattered — being estimated at only 5,00U,0U0, or about one individual to the square mile. Much of the interior of Siberia is occupied by those extensive elevated plains called steppes, which are generally marshy, covered with long rank gross, and filled with numerous small salt takes ; but other parts, in which the soil and climate admit the growth of trees, abound in extensive forests, and many portions of the south- ern districts are comparatively rich and fertile. For its western boundary, Siberia has the long chain of the Urals, which rise to the height of not more than from 300U to 4U00 feet. At the western extremity of the southern border, com- mences the vast Altayan range, which, under the various names of Great Altay, Little Altay, Yablanoy, and Stannovoy mountain:), extend eastward to Kamtschatka. The rivers of this region almost rival the greatest of the new world, and have mostly a northern direction, flowing into the Frozen ocean ; the shores of which are barred by almost perpetual ice. The principal of these are the Obe, the Yenisei, and the Lena: there are, also, the Olensk, the Yana, the Indighirca, the Kolima, and others of infe- rior magnitude. Siberia contains one large lake, the Baikal, 370 miles in length by 60 in breadth. Its waters are fresh, and abound with sturgeon, and other fish ; also with seals, the presence of which seems very remarkable, considering the distance from the sea. The chief of the other lakes are the Tchany and Soumy, the Piacinskoie, and the Taimourskoie. The most important natural productions of Siberia are drawn from its mines. Those of the Urals are of gold, platina, copper, and iron. The mines of the Altay are of gold, silver, and copper. These mines are worked on behalf of the government, by slaves, who consist mostly of banished convicts. This country contains a great variety of minerals : among the Urals, diamonds, eme- ralds, topazes, and rock salt are met with ; and the Altay moun- tains produce the topaz, beryl, onyx, lapis lazuli, and red garnets. In various parts of Siberia, there are found numerous bones, and teeth of the elephant, and other animals, now only existing in the Torrid Zone ; and the remains of that huge creature, the Mam- moth, are not uncommon. There can be little doubt that these are the remnants of an antediluvian world, and that they are impressive memorials of that tremendous catastrophe of the deluge, by which the aspect of the globe was changed. Siberia abounds with various wild animals, which are hunted for their furs. These furnish the inhabitants with their winter clothing, and also form an important article of commerce. The sable, the ermine, the marmot, the marten, &c., are the principal of the fur- 34 2, ' '( vp 3U8 ASIA. if* ir '41 Mr '■111 1 i 4, ''''?''i*-rf'y 4 ' M bearing quadrupeds. The larger animaN are, the white und brown bear, the elk, rein-dcor, wolf, fox, !ac. The economic mouse is peculi&r to Hiboria. It forms rnaga* zines of provisions in the ground, which, when damp, it will bring out and dry in the sun. During the summer, the mole and female live separate from each other ; but, on the approach of winter, re- tire to their well-stored dwellings, and pass thu rigorous season in ease and plenty. Agriculture in Siberia, from the nature of tho cl'm&^o .uid soil, is extremely limited. Along the base of the AUc, ..< "o '^s, are some fertile districts, where good crops of "u!s, ry^ ijd flo>l» .1 "'IS, niiu bar* tr, s, ry.N v'.A'ir, the wuni lent of the Tur- horses, operate two branches ; is, and furs ; the ricd on from Eu- 1 with the regions , between R»9»«a ;5post8ofKiachta, The value of arti- Munt annually to to criminals ; and )ftentime8 men of ited to civilize and y have been ban- rkoutsk, have ac European society, ions, is said to be )n the other hand, copied with most rent races of people ins more than filty arul religion, i"* rtiaks, Tartars, bu- ..occupy the towns nostly of barbarous, to place, and \rrm I the religion -I the iomedans;and8oint ASIATIC RUSSIA. aao No part of ttfif wtensive coi itry belonged to Russia, till about the middle of the ift',,' century; nor was it compl< '"ly subdued and attaclu J to it, till it woa conquered by Peter U^'i Great and Catherine II., in the early part of thr fiehteenth. The i Vabitants were formerly almost wholly wanderer^ r>ut a consideru. o num- ber now reside in towns, villa^^s, ond settled habitations. Siberia is divided into the tw great go ornments of Tobolsk, or Western, and that of I rkoutsk, or Eastern Siberia. These are sub- divided; the former into the provitices of Tobolsk, Tomsk, and Kolhy van ; and the latter into tho^ of Irkoutsk, Yakoutsk, Ncrt- chinsk, (Jchotsk, and Kamtschatka. Tobolsk, the capital of all Siberia, stands at the confluence 0/ the Tobol and the Irtysh. It is an ag> oeable place of residence, the society being formed on the European model. The inhabit- ants are social, and living is extremely rhenp. The business transacted at this place is great, as all the trade of Siberia pass( s through it. Population, about 15,000. Oins k on the Irtysh, Bar- naule on the Obe, and Tomsk on the Tom. ire nil considerable towns, containing respectively 7500, 8000 and 10,000 inhabitants. Irkoutsk, on the Angara river, is the handscmest place in Sibe< bcria, and is the capital of the eastern divisii n of that country. The inhabitants are about 12,000 in number, i nd consist chiefly of merchants connected with houses in St. Pete sburg, and of the civil and military oflUcers of government. The hops of Irkoutsk arc filled with nankeens, porcelain, lacquered vare, and other articles of Chinese manufacture; and it has almost the aspect of a Chinese city. Irkoutsk sustained some injury lately by an earth* quake. Yakoutsk, on the Lena river, is situated n n bleak and wintry region. Its importance is derived from its tri>de in furs with the surrounding district. Population, 7000. Ochotsk, the emporium of the north-eastern districts of Asia, on the shores of the sea of the same name, and more than 4000 miles east of St. Petersburg, is a neat and thriving town of 1500 inhabitants. The traders of this place collect all the furs and skins of Kamtschatka and north-west America. Most of the other places in Siberia are mere villages, or trading posts. A large and long peninsula, called Kamtschatka, extends into the ocean which waters the eastern extremity of Asia. The inhabitants, called Kamtschatdales, are a peculiar people, of low stature, with flat features, small eyes, and scarcely any beard. Bince the Russian sway put an end to the wars which they were wont to wage with considerable fury, they have passed into a peaceable, lazy, servile race, careless of the future, and addicted tu coarse sensuality. They have houses both for winter and sum- mer. In their domestic habits, the most remarkable peculiarity is I IM'\ n \i-S T^ppPViP 400 ASIA. the use of dogs harnessed to the sledges, and employed to draw them from place to place. Upper and Lower Kamtschatka are small villages, which pass for towns ; but the only place of any real importance is Petropau- lovskoi, or Port of St. Peter and St. Paul, a thriving little port, through which the merchants of Ochotsk carry on almost all the trade of Kamtschatka. An archipelago of small islands, called the Kuriles, stretch from the southern point of Kamtschatka to Jesso, a line of nearly 800 miles. Twenty-two are known, of which one-half are subject to Russia, and the remainder to Japan. The inhabitants are peace- able and well-disposed. Those in subjection to Russia pay a tri- bute of furs and sea-calf-skins. I 11 m CASPIAN AND CAUCASIAN RUSSIA. Besides Siberia, Asiatic Russia comprises the countries bordered on the east by the Ural river, and the Caspian sea ; on the north and west, by the Volga and Don rivers, and the Black sea ; and on the south, by the monarchies of Turkey and Persia. The northern portion of this region may be appropriately termed Caspian, and the southern, Caucasian Russia. The whole com- prises an irregular territory of not less than 1400 miles in length, and varying in breadth from 120 to 700 miles. It contains an area of 470,000 square miles, and about 5,000,000 inhabitants. 'ff ■'J i CASPIAN RUSSIA Caspian Russia comprises the entire Russian governments of Orenburg, Astrachan, and Caucasus : also, portions of Kazan, Simbirsk, and Saratov, together with part of the country of the Don Cossacks. The whole region extends, from north-west to north-east, not less than 1200 miles in length, and from 120 to 400 in breadth, comprising an area of about 350,000 square miles. In this territory, the most prominent object is the Caspian. It is the largest inland sea in the world, reaching, from north to south, upwards of 600 miles, and varying in breadth from 100 to 250. Although it has no visible outlet, yet it receives the waters of a number of rivers without any increase of its dimensions. The Volga, the greatest of European streams, and the Ural, flow in from the north : on the west, it receives the Kooma, the Terek, and the Kur : on the south, the Kizil-Ozen ; and on the east, the ■ .-f ASIATIC RUSSIA. 401 ployed to draw ;es, which pass ice is Petropau- ving little port, n almost all the les, stretch from e of nearly 800 If are subject to itants are peace- ilussia pay a tri- I A. •ountries bordered ja; on the north e Black sea ; and Persia. propriately termed The whole com- miles in length, 8. It contains an 300 inhabitants. in governments ot ortions of Kazan, le country of the rom north-west to , and from 120 to 1,000 square miles. 3 the Caspian. It inc, from north to readth from 100 to receives the waters dimensions. The the Ural, flow in Cooma, the Terek, d on the east, the Attruck. The waters of the Caspian are as salt as those of the ocean, with the admixture of a bitter taste, of which the latter does not partake. The navigation of this sea is generally dan> gerous ; and there are but few good harbours in any part of its coasts. The government of Astrachan, together with that of Caucasus, to the south-west, consists of almost boundless steppes or plains, in many places nearly desert, but in others, capable of supporting a considerable pastoral population. The occupants are decidedly Tartar, living, like the rest of their race, in tents of felt, and keep- ing large droves of horses, and numerous flocks and herds. The eastern tribes are Kalmucks, and the western, chiefly Nogais; mixed, to some extent, with the Cossacks of the Don. Farther north, the province of Orenburg rises insensibly into a mountainous elevation, which at length terminates in the declivity of that great chain which separates Europe from Asia. Astrachan, at the head of the Caspian sea, is the capital of a government of the same name. Its commerce, by the Volga on one side, and the Caspian on the other, is very extensive. The chief wealth of this city, however, is derived from the vast fishery which it carries on. The quantity of fish obtained is not only suflicient for domestic consumption, but is largely exported ; and the roes of sturgeon, prepared in that peculiar form called caviare, form an article of trade for which it is famed. A good deal of salt is obtained from marshy lakes in the neighbourhood : and some fabrics of leather and silk are carried on. Astrachan is sur- rounded by a wall, and is, for the most part, poorly built of wood. Some handsome edifices of stone, however, have lately been erect- ed, particularly two commercial halls. The population, amounting to 70,000, forms a various mixture of the people of Europe and Asia; Russians, Greeks, English, French, Persians: even the Hindoos have a small quarter appropriated to them. Most of the Persian trade is carried on by the Armenians. Orenburg, situated on the Ural river, is a well-built town, of nbout 2000 houses : to its market, the Tartars bring annually 10,000 horses, and from 40,000 to 60,000 sheep. Hence, also, numerous caravans depart for Khiva, Bokhara, Khokan, &c. Oufa, al)out 250 miles north from Orenburg, and situated at the junction of the Bella and Oufa rivers, is a small town, with 4000 inhabitants. This place was formerly more important than at pre- sent, being nearly all destroyed by fire, in the year 1820. Mosdok, on the Terek, Georgievsk, on the Kooma, and Vlaudi Kaukas, at the base of the Caucasus mountains, are strong for- tresses, erected by the Russians, to restrain the inroads of the people of Circassia. Kisliar, on the Terek, contains 10,000 inhab- 34* J i I'll; •^'ri J 'It' '^mmmm w '■ 402 ASIA. itants, of whom the chief part are Armenians. It ia the most important town in the Russian government of Caucasus, and car- ries on a considerable trade. W Vt..:: i\ "-''/f- * ■ p.. f 'h m CAUCASIAN RUSSIA. Caucasian Russia comprehends that part of Asia situated be- tween the Caspian and Black Seas, and comprising the countries known by the names of Circassia, Dagheatan, Georgia, Imer- itia, &;c. Tlie distinguishing feature of this interesting region is the great mountain chain of Caucasus, which, in height and variety of aspect, is surpassed but by few in Asia, and even in the world. Its greatest elevation, Mount Elburz, attains the altitude of 18,000 feet above the level of the ocean. The highest of these celebrated mountains are clad in perpetual snow ; while the lower declivities contain a number of well-watered, picturesque valleys, forming fine pastoral districts ; and, though not capable of high culture, yielding plentifully Indian-corn, millet, barley, and other products. The upper regions of the Caucasus contain, amidst their barren rocks and eternal snows, various small tribes ; the Ossetis, the Kistes, the Lesghis, and others, that arc formidable and determined robbers, and the scourge and terror of the surrounding districts. The mountain valleys and more fertile territories are peopled by the Circassians, Georgians, Imeritians, &c. These races are but little disposed to industrious culture, being liable to the almost continual ravage of war and predatory excur- sion. Their supply of o.rms, and of foreign luxuries, is chiefly derived either from plunder, or from the sale of their ])eople as slaves. Wine in considerable abundance, though of middling quality, a little silk, some skins and furs, and fine honey, nearly complete the list of their commodities which are suitable for the purposes of trade. In general, all the Caucasian tribes profess the Mahomedan faith, though in a somewhat loose manner, and free from the big- otry of the other Mussulman nations. They are almost univer- sally addicted to habits of plunder — that national plunder, on a great scale, which is considered rather a boast than a disgrace, and which is generally familiar to rude tribes who live in the vicinity of more opulent nations. Russia, after a long struggle with Persia and Georgia, has se- cured to herself the whole western shore of the Caspian, and all the level tracts between it and the Black Sea. Even many of the ASIATIC RUSSIA. 403 ; ia the most 3US, and car- sia situated be- J the countries Georgia, Imer- rion is the great and variety of n the world. Its tude of 18,000 :lad in perpetual of well-watered, its; and, though dian-corn, millet, nidst their barren the Ossetis, the le and determined •ounding districts, es are peopled by )U3 culture, being I predatory excur- fuxuries, is chiefly )f their i^eople as )Ugh of middling line honey, nearly Ire suitable for the , the Mahomedan free from the big- Ire almost univer- Lai plunder, on a U than a disgrace, fs who live in the nd Georgia, has se- L Caspian, and all Even many of the rude mountain tribes are obliged to own a certain homage fo that power : but this, as well as the accompanying tribute, is scanty, and fully compensated by the frequent plundering excursions, against which the Russians with di(HcuUy guard their own borders. Georgia, and still more, Circassia, has been long distinguished for the athletic strength of its men, and the fine forms of its women ; in consequence of which qualities, they have been in great request, as domestic slaves, over various eastern countries. In Egypt, particularly, the offspring of those slaves, kept up by continual accessions, long maintained, under the appellation of Mamelukes, a sway superior to that of its Turkish masters. Circassia. — Circassia occupies the western extremity of the Caucasian chain, on the north side, and comprises the districts of Great and Little Kabardia, and Little Abasia, the limits of which are but imperfectly known. The inhabitants are composed of several tribes or clans, and reside in the mountain glens, in cot- tages built of wood or of osiers. The Russian territories everywhere border upon, and inclose Circassia : yet the valour of its inhabitants has set at defiance every effort to reduce it to a state of regular subjection. Their courage and warlike capacity were of late admirably displayed in the defence of the small town of Akulko, in the capture of which, the Russians lost, in killed and wounded, 12,000 men. The distinctions of rank and birth are observed, in Circassia, with all the strictness of Highland pride. Under the prince, or sovereign, are the nobles, who attend him in war or foray, but exercise a sway almost absolute over their own immediate vassals. The latter are of two kinds ; bondsmen, who cultivate the soil, and armed retainers, who attend their chiefs to the field ; which last have often been raised, on this condition, from the inferior rank. The noble Circassians lead that sort of life which is usual with independent chiefs, on their own estates, and surrounded by their vassals ; a round of war and feasting, of hunting and jollity. The chief pride of these feudal lords is in their arms, armour, and horses. Especial care is manifested respecting the latter, whose pedigree they consider almost equally important as their own. Their arms are a mixture of those of the middle ages and of mod- ern times : their coats of mail, and steel helmets, are often richly ornamented with pearls and precious stones, and are sometimes of great value. The gratification of revenge is carried, by the Circassians to a great extent. Blood for blood is rigidly exacted, and the duty of redressing an injury is hereditary. With these barbarous prin- ciples, is combined an almost romantic hospitality. When a stranger has been once admitted to draw a mouthful of milk from ' -1, hm¥ ■ 'ii > wm 404 ASIA. kf ^1 <1 'I 1 the breast of the mother of the family, he is under the protection of the house, and considered one of its members. The Circassians are the most famous of ail the nations of this quarter, for their fine physical qualities : the men are tall, hand- some, and athletic : the beauty of the women is proverbial. They have been long esteemed the brightest ornaments of an eastern seraglio ; and many of them arc purchased annually by the Per- sians and Turks. Daghestan. — South-westward from Circassia, stretching along the western shores of the Caspian sea, lies the mountainous dis- trict of Daghestan. Its fertile soil is but imperfectly cultivated ; and its long coast presents but few harbours. This district is subject to Russia, and forms part of the government of Caucasus. Tarki is favourably situated on the sea ; but the principal place is Derbent, an old town, long the bulwark of the Persian empire, and still exhibiting imposing military works. Geokgia.-— On the southern declivity of the Caucasus, extends the famous and once powerful kingdom of Georgia. The world, perhaps, does not contain a region more profusely gifled both with richness and beauty. On its successive mountain stages are raised all the varieties of fruit hud grain, both of the temperate and tropi- cal climates. The woods abound with game ; and the mountans contain in their bosom mines of considerable value. These bounties of nature, however, have been rendered una- vailing by the oppressions of a feudal government, and by the continual wars bc^tween the Russians and Persians, which have desolated Georgia for more than a century. Through the pressure of these evils, the population of this fine region is supposed to be reduced to a number not exceeding 320,000 souls. The greater number arc not Mahomedans, but Greek Christians, with a large proportion of Armenians, who have in their hands all the traffic of the country. The only city of Greorgia, of any importance, is Teflis, the cap- ital. It is situated on the banks of the Kur, which flows here through a deep ar-i gloomy defile, covered with immense forests. The Russians make this place their head-quarters, and maintain there a large military force, which is employed in repelling the inroads of the mountaineers, and keeping the country in subjection. The population of Teflis has declined, in the course of the last twenty years, from 22,000 to 15,000. Shirvan, Nakshivan, and Erivan, are districts which formerly belonged to Persia. They are, however, much depopulated by the eflects of almost constant warfare. Erivan is a strong fortress, not far from the lake of that name, now greatly impaired. Nakshi- TURKEY IN ASIA. 405 [le protection itions of this re tall, hand- jrbial. They )f an eastern y by the Per- retching along ,untainous dis- ;tly cultivated; i'his district is it of Caucasus, rincipal place is (ian empire, and lucasus, extends ia. The world, ' gifted both with stoges are raised operate and tropi- nd the mountans le. .n rendered una- nent, and by the iians, which have ough the pressure is supposed to be uls. The greater ians, with a large Is all the traffic of ,i9Teflis,thecap- which flows here [i immense forests. Iters, and maintain ed in repelling the untry in subjection, course of the last Its which formerly (depopulated by the I strong fortress, not Impaired. Naksh.- van was an ancient and magnificent city, but is at present in ruins. Shirvan has a fertile soil, which produces rice, wheat, and barley. At the eastern extremity of this district, on the Caspian sea, is the town of Baku. Near this place is the fire worshipped by the Guebres, or flre-worshippers, who affirm that it has been burning ever since the flood, and will continue to the end of the world. It is said to proceed from the inflammable nature of the soil in cer- tain spots, which, if dug into for a few inches, and a live coal ap- plied, will take Are, and continue to burn. Imeritia, &c. — Extending to the north-west from Georgia, and between the Caucasus mountains and the Black Sea, is the terri- tory of Imeritia, comprising Abasia, Mingrelia, Guria, and Imer- itia proper. The three first-named districts stretch along the sea- shore a distance of more than 300 miles. Though claimed by Russia, these territories are virtually independent. From the different little ports on the coast, Asiatic Turkey and Constantinople are supplied with silk, honey, and also with slaves ; the obtaining of which, by purchase, seizure, and every sort of nefarious process, forms the principal occupation of the chiefs of these regions. It is estimated that Turkey receives annually from thence about 12,000 of these unfortunate beings. Inhabited by a race even more rude and barbarous than the interior tribes, these maritime districts are wasted by internal con- tests ; and, in addition to the various forms of plunder to which the inhabitants of rude districts are generally prone, their situation has tempted them to annex that of piracy. Kotais, on the Rione river, in Imeritia proper, is the chief town, with 2000 inhabitants. Poty, Anarghia, Isagour, Soutchukkale, and Anapa, are small ports ports along the coast. Soukoumkale, in Abasia, is the chief rendezvous of the Russian fleet, stationed nere to check the depredations of the Circassian, Abasian, and Mingrelian pirates, by whom these waters are infested. TURKEY IN ASIA. TuBKEY IN Asia, or Asiatic Turkey, forms the largest and most eastern division of the Ottoman empire, and extends over some of the finest and most interesting countries of Asia. No part of the world is more favoured by nature, or more marked by grand historical features. This region contained, in ancient times, various populous and powerful states. Here flourished the mighty empire of Assyria, the cities of Babylon and Nineveh, the kingdoms of Pontus, Lydia, 3 fm m ■k-M^ii' if -ft ■^.;ii i ■vrii m '""^'VPHiiP 406 ASIA. ■ ;i P ■ '$ T . • . i* 1^: m'. ;■'■ f , - -'.li i (1 '1 i: Ionia, Pergamus, &c. : and in later times, these territories con* stituted one of the fairest portions of the Roman empire. How great the contrast at the present day ! The country is harassed by robbers ; agriculture is checked ; commerce and manufactures languish ; and this region, so favoured in its po8i< tion, and so rich in its natural resources, is almost a blank, a dreary desert in the civilized world. This section of the Turkish empire is bounded on the west, by the Archipelago and the Straits of the Dardanelles ; north, by the Black Sea and the Sea of Marmora ; east, by Persia ; and south, by Arabia, Syria, and the Mediterranean. It extends, from east to west, about 1000, and from north to south, from 300 to 600 miles; forming an area of about 370,000 square miles. The principal elevations are those of Mount Taurus, whose lofty peaks stretch through the country, from the Mediterranean to the Caspian sea. Near the north-eastern frontier, Mount Ara- rat rears its snowy peaks, reminding mankind of the deluge — the most memorable event in the physical history of the globe. The chief rivers are the celebrated Euphrates and the Tigris, which, commencing in the same region, unite their streams a short distance above their common estuary, and, forming the Shat-uU Arab, enter the Persian gulf, about 75 miles below Bussorah. The Sakharia and Kizzil Irmak, flowing into the Black Sea, and the Meinder, Koduschay, and others, running into the Mediterranean, are of smaller magnitude. Turkey in Asia has but few lakes, and those are nearly all saline. Lake Van, near tho eastern frontier, is the most exten- sive : its waters are so brackish, as to be unfit for use. Chains of salt lakes extend through some of the interior parts of Asia Minor, though none of them are of much magnitude. The sea-coasts of this region, from the Black Sea, including Syria and Egypt, to Alexandria, are often denominated the Le- "ant ; a term which signifies the quarter where the sun rises. In ' more extended sense, it includes, also, the islands of Cyprus, ihodes, and the Archipelago. Nearly all parts of this country have, from remote antiquity, oeen famed for their abundant products ; and, though the efforts of the husbandman are greatly restricted by impolitic exactions, the soil still furnishes all the necessaries, and most of the luxuries of life, in abundance: raw silk, Indian-corn, wheat, wine, oil, honey, and the fruits of nearly every climate, flourish here almost without culture. The manufactures are chiefly coarse, und for internal consump- tion only. Yet silk, cotton, leather, and soap, are staples of the Levant. The women among the wandering Turcoman tribes, in TURKEY IN ASIA. 407 ritories con- re. te country is mmerce and d in its posi- ank, a dreary I the west, by north, by the i; and south, ids, from east m 300 to 600 iles. raurus, whose Mediterranean er, Mount Ara- he deluge— the ,e globe. . and the Tigris, streams a short ing the Shat-ul- rBussorah. The ick Sea, and the e Mediterranean, , are nearly all the mostexten- Iforuse. Chains ior parts of Asia ^k Sea, including Dminated the Le- the sun rises. 1" slands of Cyprus, remote antiquity, Ithough the etforls .jipolitic exactions, lost of the luxuries , wheat, wine, oil, lourish here almost internal consump- lare staples of the Purcoman tribes, in the interior districts of the northern and eastern provinces, weave the much-admired Turkey carpets. This region was, for many ages, one of the richest commercial countries in the world. Its importance, in that respect, has greatly diminished in modern times ; yet its central position, and fertile soil, still render it the seat of a traffic not inconsiderable. An overland trade is carried on, to some extent, by means of cara- vans, with Persia, Syria, and Arabia ; and a maritime commerce with various nations, chiefly through the ports of Smyrna, Busso- rah, Trebisonde, &c. The principal countries comprised in Asiatic Turkey are, Asia Minor, Armenia, Mesopotamia, and Kurdistan. They are divided into 16 pachalics, or provinces, which are under the control of pachas appointed by the Sultan. Each of these rulers is a sultan on a smaller scale. They unite in themselves all the civil and military power of their respective governments, and almost univer- sally act as the tyrants and oppressors of the people. The inhabitants are estimated to amount to 8,000,000, of whom one-half are Turks. These form, as in European Turkey, the ruling race. They present all the austerity and gloom of the ancient national character, unaltered; being further removed from the influence of those circumstances that are rapidly changing the manners and aspect of the inhabitants of Constantinople. The remainder of the population embraces Turcomans, Kurds, Armenians, Arabs, Greeks, and Jews. The languages spoken by this mixture of nations are equally numerous. In the commercial cities and towns, a jargon compounded of several tongues, called the iingua-fran^a, is much used. The Turcomans are a wandering pastoral race, scattered over all the thinly-settled parts of the country. They live in tents, and possess large flocks and herds. They are skilful horsemen, and hardy soldiers; and generally form a considerable part of the military force of the Turks, and of the armies of the pachas. They combine, with their Tartar ancestors, a love of war and booty, and generally serve without pay. The Kurds inhabit the mountainous districts on the borders of Turkey and Persia. They are bold and daring robbers, and oflen plunder the inhabitants of the plains that lie beneath them. They possess, however, a frank hospitality, a high sense of independence, and an undaunted courage and resolution. The Armenians are one of the most ancient nations in the world. They carry on all the trade, and many of the manufac- tures of Turkey and Persia, and are to be found in every country,, from Hungary to China. They are frugal, temperate, and cun- aud greatly resemble the Jews. The Armenians are pro- I ■;: i 5.i, ning; ..al T^ 408 ASIA. ll t Ik- i I'* ,■ r ;? ■ ' ■ ;'l fesscdiy Christians: part of them arc Catholics, and the rest belong to the church bearing the national name. They carry fast- ing and ablution to an extent much beyond any other sect. The Arabs resemble the same race in other quarters. Of those people, several powerful predatory tribes hover along the west bank of the Euphrates, and frequently plunder the caravans, and even .essels ascending and descending that stream. Others occupy large portions of the rich plain between the Euphrates and the Tigris rivers ; where they feed their flocks, and, tempted b} the exuberant fertility of the soil, have, in many instances, "•. quired industrious and agricultural habits. The Greeks arc not numerous in this division of the Ottoman Empire, but they are, as in European Turkey, cheerful," cunning, and adroit. The Jews, like the Armenians, are generally engaged in com- mercial pursuits. The Mahomedan of the Sonnite or orthodox sect, is the prevail- ing religion in Asiatic Turkey, being the faith adopted by at least three-filths of the inhabitants. The Turks, Turcomans, Arabs, and some of the Kurds, arc Mussulmans. The Greeks and Ar- menians profess the religion of the church bearing their respective names. Some of the Kurds are Nestorian Christians, and are under the superintendence of their own patriarchs. Though many of the islands of the Archipelago have been wrested from the grasp of the Turkish monarch, still a number of them remain under the control of that sovereign. These isles, once celebrated for wealth, beauty and power, are now reduced to a more complete state of barbarism than even the continent. Rhodes was distinguished at an early period as a great commer- cial state ; in afler times it acquired a high military renown, when the knights of St. John, expelled from the Holy Land, made Rhodes one of their last retreats, where they long baffled the arms of the most powerful Turkish Sultans. The city of Rhodes presents no longer a fragment of its colossus, one of the wonders of the world, or any trace of the numerous fine edifices with which it had been adorned by the taste and wealth of its inhabitants. It is now a mean town, with a population of 6000 ; that of the whole island is about 14,000. North of Rhodes is Stance, the ancient Cos, the birth-place of Hippocrates and Apelles ; Stampalia, Amorgo, and Patmos, where St. John wrote the Apocalypse ; Samos, a larger and more im- portant island, which gave birth to Pythagoras ; Scio, which has acquired a melancholy celebrity from the barbarous massacre of its inhabitants by the Turks in the late war, 25,000 of whom per- ished by the sword; the rest, including opulent citizens and ladies TURKEY IN ASIA. 409 and iVie rest jy carry fust- r sect. :rs. Of these ong tho west caravans, and ;am. Others Euphrates and id, tempted b} instances, "*• )f the Ottoman «erful; cunning, igagcd in com- t, is the prevail- jpted by at least rcomans, Arabs, Greeks and Ar- r their respective ns, and are under elago have been still a number of These isles, once ow reduced to a Icontinent. , a great commer- iry renown, when ind, made Rhodes ri the arms of the fiodes presents no iders of the world, which it had been nts. It is now a |he whole island is the birth-place of Lnd Patmos, where ter and more im- ; Scio, which has ■arous massacre ot roOO of whom per- Tcitizens and ladies of high rank, were sold as slaves, and the island reduced to ii desert. Metelin, the ancient Lesbos, though greatly decayed, has still a population of 40,000, one half of whom are Greeks : its trado in oil is considerable. Tenedos, a small rocky island, produces a highly esteemed wine. Smyrna, the emporium of the Levant, situated on a fine bay on the west coast of Asia Minor, is a city of great antiquity, and claims to be the birth-place of Homer. It is about four miles in length and one in breadth. Its groves and minarets make a handsome appearance at a distance; within, however, are gloomy walls imd ill-paved streets. The population is estimated at 100,000. Up- wards of 2000 Europeans, chiefly French, are settled here for the Levant trade, and form a numerouM society among themselves, which enlivens the gloom peculiar to i Turkish city. The exports of Smyrna are raw silk, cotton, carpets, raisins, drugs, &c. To the northward of Smyrna is Bergamos or Pergamos, once the capital of a powerful line of kings. Population, 10,000. Brusa, south-west from Constantinople, was for a short time the capital of Turkey : it is a fine city, containing about 60,000 inha- bitants. Its mosques are said to amount to 365, some of which are very large and splendid. Eastward from Brusa are the cities of Angora and Tokat ; the former is noted for a peculiar breed of goats which thrive only in a limited space around the city. The hair of this animal rivals silk in fineness, and is made into a species of camlet by the inha- bitants of Angora, who are chiefly employed in the manufacture of that fabric. The population of the city, which less than a cen- tury ago was reckoned at 100,000, now numbers only 20,000. Tokat, lying due east from Angora, has an extensive manufacture of copper vessels, made of the metal produced from the mines in the neighbourhood ; also of blue morocco and silk. It carries on a considerable inland commerce, communicating by caravans with Diarbekir, Smyrna, Brusa, &c. Trebisonde, on the Black Sea, upwards of 500 miles east from Constantinople, is the chief emporium of this part of the Turkish empire. The inhabitants are about 50,000 in number, consisting of all the races that inhabit Turkey, mixed with the more varied tribes from the Caucasus. They carry on a considerable trade in fruit and wine, and also in silk and cotton stufils of their own manu- facture. Erzerum, on the head waters of the Euphrates, south-east from Trebisonde, is an ancient city : the inhabitants date its foundation from the time of Noah. The climate is healthy, but the cold in winter is intense. Population, 80,000. Diarbekir, on the Tigris, f'ontains 40,000 inhabitants, and from its situation on the high road 35 '1 m •'.,1 If %r $4 '•:- III M'. If! , ■ ■ '-S ■i > 410 ASIA. Ji between Persia and Turkey, as well as on the communications down the rivers, forms a sort of key to the commerce of Western Asia. Orfa, situated between the Euphrates and Tigris, is a well- built town, with a handsome mosque consecrated to Abraham, and a population of 20,000 souls. A village south of this place, inha- bited by Arabs, still bears the name and site of Haran, the originni abode of the patriarch. Mosul, with 35,000 inhabitants, is on the west oank of the Tigris, and opposite to what is supposed to bo the ruins of Nineveh ; the only monuments are mounds of oartlj nearly a mile in circumference, similar to those of Babylon, though not so lofly or so perfect. Bagdad, on the Tigris, exhibits scarcely any remnant of the gay and romantic splendour of the court of the Caliphs, and but few of the costly edifices with which they enriched this city, when it was the capital of the Maho nedan world. Almost all of modem Bagdad is mean and foreign to the ideas which the name excites. The trade with India is consiJerable; and goods being brought up the Tigris from Bussorah, are distributed by means of caravans through Syria, Asia Minor, &c. The inhabitants, but lately reck- oned at 80,000, have lieon reduced by the ravages of the cholern, the plague, and the sword, to less than one half that amount. Directly south of Bagdad, and on the west bank of the Euphrates, opposite Hillali, are the ruins of Babylon, a spot to which recoller- tion gives an \lrnost unrivalled interest. Here, over a space ex- tending five oi six miles in every direction, are spread the undoubted remains of the most renowned city of ancient times, which none of the proud capitals of the old world ever rivalled in magnitude and the grandeur of its structures, and whicli is rendered still more imposing by the remote antiquity to which its origin extends. The ruins consist of vast mounds of earth, formed by the decom- position of the materials of buildings. The principal of these are three great masses, of wliich the first is 1100 yards long and 800 broad, the second is 700 yards square, and the third 762 yards in circuit and 198 feet in height. There are, besides, smaller mounds scattered about: these all contain vast quantities of excellent bricks; many have inscriptions on them, and are generally so well ce- mented together, that it is difficult to separate a brick from the others entire. Several extensive cities have been built at diflferent times out of these remains. The interior of some of the mounds contain many cavities tenanted by wild beasts, bats, and owls. The whole scene is in exact conformity with the prediction uttered against this mighty city by the ancient prophets of Jehovah: "Babylon shall become heaps ; it shall be desolate for ever ; none shall remain in it ; wild beasts of the desert shall dwell there." SYRIA. Ill communications •rce of Western rigris, is a well- Abraham, and this place, inliu- iran, the original bitants, is on the supposed to bo mounds of earth Babylon, though ' remnant of the Caliphs, and but a(\ this city, when nost all of modern the name excites. » being brought up neans of caravans ts, but lately reck- nes of the cholera, ^that amount, k of the Euphrates, t to which recoUec [, over a space tx- )read the undoubted times, which none ailed in magnitude i rendered still more }ri"in extends, rmed by the decom- •incipal of these are yards long and 800 ■ third 762 yards m des, smaller mounds of excellent bricks; inerally so well ce- te a brick from the ifferent times out of ounds contain many ,. The whole scene J against this mighty bylon shall beconie ill remain in it ; wild South-west from Hillah is the town of Mcsjid Ali, which con- tains the tomb of Ali, the son-in-law and one of the successors of Mahomet. It is visited annually by great numbers of Persian tra- vellers, who esteem this point of devotion equal to a pilgrimage to Mecca. On the Sliat-ul-Arab, or united stream of the Euphrates and Tigris, is situated Bussorah, a city containing 60,000 inhabitants. Its most important trade being that with India, is carried on partly by British, but chiefly by Arabian vessels, of which those of 500 tons burthen can ascend the river to this point. Merchants of various nations reside here, also English and Dutch consuls. It is a dirty and meanly built place ; the bazaars arc wholly unsuita- ble to the valuable merchandise deposited in them, and there is only one mosque which has a decent appearance. SYRIA. Syria formed, until lately, one of the chief divisions of the Otto- man empire. It is now under the control of Mohammed Ali, )tacha of Egypt, and was wrested by him from his former master, in the war of 1832. Like ail the subjects of the Egyptian chief, the people are governed with rigorous despotism. No country was more celebrated, in ancient times, than Syria. In the south-west, was the country of the Israelites, and the birth- place of Christianity. Phosnicia, particularly its cities of Tyre and Sidon, were famous for their commerce: Damascus was long the capital of u powerful kingdom ; and Antioch was accounted the third city in the world for wealth and population. Baalbec and Palmyra, once important cities, still exhibit splendid ruins of their undent greatness. Here have the Assyrians, Jews, Greeks, Romans, Saracens, the Crusaders, and the Turks, struggled, at ditierent periods, for mas- tery. Ignorance, superstition, and barbarism now cover the land, and no traces of its civilization remain but ruins. Syria is bounded on the north and east, by Asiatic Turkey ; south, by Arabia ; and west, by the Mediterranean sea. It is 440 miles in length, from 1.50 to 250 in breadth ; and contains an area of 50,000 square miles, with 2,000,000 inhabitants. While it formed a part of the Turkish empire, Syria was divided into the pachalics of Aleppo, Damascus, Acre, and Tripoli, bearing the names of their respective capitals. These subdivisions are still retained. The chief mountains of Syria are those of Lebanon, or Libanus, .J f'-f rs 413 ASIA. 1^ I: ■'it ; . t.j: • , ■ f ,' '. k^ :\i !■ ,r f^ and Anti-Libnnus, extending from north to south, dividing tho country into two distinct portions, one bounded by the con»t, nnd the other by the desert. The latter occupies a large portion of the eastern part of Syria, and extends to the river Euphrates. It is tt continuation of the great Arabian Desert ; and, like that barren region, contains some oases, or fertile and welUwatered spots. The principal rivers are the Orontes, or Aaszy, flowing north into the Mediterranean, and the Jordan, running south into the Dead Seu. There are also many smaller streams, which, de- scending from the heights of Lebanon, water and fertilize the country. Of ihe lakes f( Syria, the chief is the well-known Asphalt ites, or Dead Sea. Those of Tiberias, or the lake of Galilee, and the lakes of Damascus, Hems, and Antioch, arc of less importance. The soil of Syria, in favourable situations, and when well-wa- tered, is of j^reat fertility. It produces abundantly wheat, rye, ricct cotton, tobacco, sugar, indigo; also, grapes of excellent qual- ity, with the fruits of almost all climates. A very extensive land communication has generally been car- tied on from Syria with Arabia and Persia, but the long continued wars have greatly interfered in latter times with the passage of the caravans and pilgrims by whom it was carried on. This country is inhabited by various descriptions of people ; of these the Arabs from the desert, who drive their flocks into the fer- tile and neglected pastures which more or less abound in all ports of this region, form a numerous class. The imputation of the towns is composed principally of Turks and Greeks ; the former speak their own language, although that in most general use is the Arabic. The steep and rugged heights of Lebanon have given shelter to several races, diflering essentially in character from the rest of the population. They are a martial, courogeous people, and have what is rare in Asia, national assemblies, with some form of repub- lican government. Among these mountain tribes, the chief are the Maronites and Druses ; the former were originally the proselytes of Maron, a saint of the fifth century ; they are Catholics, and in communion with the Church of Rome. In general they live in a happy and rural simplicity, recognize no distinctions of rank, and all labour for their own support : even the monks and priests till the ground, raise flocks, and pursue mechanical occupations. The entire popu- lation is estimated at 150,000. The Druses inhabit the more northern regions of Lebanon. Their origin is traced to a persecution that took place about the SYRIA. 413 I, dividing the the coast, and nr«Tc portion ol Euphrates. It and, like that id well-watered r, flowing north g south into tho ims, which, de- and fertilize the the well-known or the lake of i Antioch, arc of d when well-wa- antly wheat, rye, of excellent qual- enerally been car- the long continued the passage of the on. . [ions of people ; ol ' flocks into the ler- labound in all parts Twpulation of the ,reeks ; the former it general use is the ave given shelter to Ifromtherestofthe , people, and hav< some form of repub- the Maronites and JlesofMaron,asnint [in communion with I a happy and rural and all labour for ests till the ground, The entire popu- legions of Lebanon, look place about tho i)eginningorthe lilcvunth century among the followers ui' Mahomed. These people (hsrive from their inde|)endonco, an energy and a vigour of chnrocfcr unknown to the other nations of Syria. All the great atfairs of the nation must bo decided in an nsscm* biy of their sheiks, at which even peasants are allowed to be pre- sent, and to give their voice. Tho Druses, though generally Ma- homeduns, are rather indiforent to religion. They are a hardy, robust, and warlike people ; brave almost to excess, and entertain u |)roverbinl contempt for deotli. The Motoualis, who live to the south of the Maronites, are big- oted Mahomedans, of the sect of Ali, and are regarded by the Turks as heretics: they are an intrepid and brave people. The Ansari- ans reside north of the Druscc : they live in a sort of anarchy, both as to religion and government, believing in the transmigration of souls, several incarnations of the Deity, &c. Tho numbers of the two last mentioned trilws are inconsiderable. Damascus, the capital of Syrio, and the residence of the Egyp- tian viceroy, is one of the most venerable cities in the world for its antiquity, and is known to have existed in the time of Abraham ; it has been ever since a great capital, and is at present the most flourishing city in Syria. It is built of brick ; and its streets, like those of all the towns in this quarter, are narrow and gloomy ; the inhabitants reserving their magnificence for the interior courts and palaces. The great motsque is very splendid, and the bazaar has no rival in the East for convenience and beauty. Damascus is no longer renowned for its sword-blades ; but it has still con- siderable fabrics of silk and cotton : and the fruits raised in the adjacent country, dried, and made into sweetmeats, are sent to all the surrounding regions. This city has long maintained a high importance, being on the route of the great caravans to Mecca, whence even the Turks esteem it holy, and call it the gate of the Caaba. This causes not only an immense resort, but a great trade, which the pilgrims are careful to combine with the pious objects of their journey. The environs of Domascus are very fertile, and tolerably cultivated, and rank as the paradise of the east. The inhabitants arc 120,000 in number. Aleppo was formerly accounted the first city in Syria, and con- tained 200,000 inhabitants. In August, 1822, it was shaken to pieces by an earthquake, which was felt from Diarbekir to Cyprus. The most appalling picture is drawn of the horrors of that period ; 20,000 persons are supposed to have been killed, and nearly the whole of the remainder of the inhabitants perished for want of shelter and food. The city is reviving slowly, and now contains about one-third of its former population. 3.5 * 1 1 ■ i ;(;15 ; ^l^ 'U ¥'4 Ki;ii>';' ''P'PiiP 414 ASIA. ir^' I:-;. 1^: .i f.f. ■ u- Scanderoon, the port of Aleppo, was once important, but its trade has been mostly transferred to Latakia. Antioch, the an- cient queen of the East, is now a poor, ill-built town, of 11,000 inhabitants. Latakia is a place of some trade, mostly in tobacco : population, 10,000. To the southward is Tripoli, a neat town, with some trade, and a population of 16,000. Beyrout is inhabited mostly by Druses ; in its neighbourhood is raised the finest silk in Syria. Its export, and that of cotton, cause some trade : population, 6000. Said, or Sidon, famous in ancient times tor its commerce, being second only to Tyre, is now a small place with 5000 inhabitants : it is the principal port by which is carried on the maritime trade of Damascus across the mountains. Sour, a petty fishing village of 300 houses, is all that remains of the once celebrated Tyre. Modern times have seen the dread sentence fulfilled, that the queen of nations should become a rock, on which fishermen were to dry their nets. The harbour now only admits of boats. The ruins of Palmyra are situated 130 miles north-east from Damascus, in the heart of the Syrian desert. This once splendid city is supposed to have \yeen the Tadmor in the wilderness founded by Solomon. It was for a time the commercial emporium of this part of Asia, and the capital of a flourishing kingdom. The re- mains of its celebrated temple of the sun, comprising magnificent ranges of Corinthian columns, with extensive and superb colonnades, are in some parts still entire, and with the vast and imposing frag- ments of various other ruined edifices scattered over a considerable extent of ground, attest the ancient splendour of this renowned city. Baalbec, Heliopolis, or the city of the sun, situated 40 miles north of Damascus, is famous for its classic ruins, which, excepting those of Palmyra, nothing of the kind in Asia can rival. The frag- ments of its principal temple are of enormous dimensions ; its vast columns of more than 60 feet in length, each forming but one entire stone, and the other colossal remains still existing, seem more the work of giants than of ordinary mortals : their formation is ascrilxjd by the natives to genii acting under the orders of Solomon. The island of Cyprus, lying west of Syria, has, with that country, become tributary to the pacha of Egypt; it is 140 miles in length, by (i'i in breadth. The natives boast that the produce of every land and climate will flourish on their soil in the highest perfection : its wheat is of superior quality, but wine may be considered as the staple product. Its fruits are also delicious, and game abundant. The inhabitants amount to 70,000, two-thirds of whom are Greeks. They carry on some manufactures of leather, carpets, and cotton, all of great excellence ; the colours being particularly fine and durable. The principal places are Nicosia the capital, Larnica, Famagusta, and Buffa. PALKSTINE. 415 ortant, but its itioch, the an- wn, of 11,000 tly in tobacco : , a neat town, jighbourhood is of cotton, cause mous in ancient , is now a small ort by which is s the mountains, that remains of seen the dread I become a rock, he harbour now 1 north-east from 'his once splendid ilderness founded eniporium of this ngdom. The re- rising magnificent superb colonnades, ind imposing fms* ver a considerable his renowned city, ated 40 miles north which, excepting n rival. The frag- imensions ; its vast 1 forming but one still existing, seem J -.their formation IS orders of Solomon. (, with that country, ,40 miles in length, ,e produce of every ! highest perfection : jeconsideredasthe tnd game abundant, f whom are Greeks, carpets, and cotton, articularly fine and he capital, Larnica, palb:stine. Palestine is a country situated at the head of the Mediterra- nean Sea, and occupying the south-western section of Syria. Though of limited extent, it is full of historical interest; and al- most every spot in it recalls some of the great events of sacred history. Every name commemorates a mystery, and every hill and mountain re-echoes the accents of prophecy. It is a land teeming with miracles — a region abounding with almost innume- rable evidences of the power of the Most High. In this country, the patriarchs Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, pitched their tents, and led their flocks. It was afterwards the scene of the striking and awful miracles of the prophets, and of the Saviour of mankind. In still later times, it was the battle- field on which the chivalry of Europe, and the warriors of Asia, encountered each other, in the cventlul period of the Crusades. Palestine was at first called the Land of Canaan ; afterwards, the Land of Promise ; the Land of Israel ; and, since the time of our Saviour, the Holy Land. It is Ijounded north, by the moun- tains of Lebanon ; east, by the desert that extends from the river Jordan to the Euphrates; south, by Arabia; and west, by the Mediterranean Sea. In length, it is about 170 miles ; but its breadth greatly varies ; being in some places, 60 miles, and in others only 25. Area, 10,000 square miles. This country was divided by Joshua among the twelve tribes of Israel. It subsequently contained the separate kingdoms of Judah and Israel ; and was afterwards governed in succession by the Chaldeans, the Greeks, the Romans, the Saracens, the Cru- saders, the Turks : and now it forms a part of the Egyptian em- pire of Mohammed Ali. Palestine is beautifully variegated by mountains, hills, valleys, and plains. The most remarkable mountains are Lebanon, long noted for its tall cedars; Pisgah, for the view it gave Moses of the promised land ; Tabor, for the transfiguration of Christ ; the Mount of Olives, for being the scene of the ascension of our Sa- viour to Heaven ; and Mount Carmel, rendered famous by the miracles which proved the divine mission of the prophet Elijah. Gilboa, Hermon, Gilead, and Bashan are also celebrated moun- tains. The Jordan, now called the Arden, is the principal river of the country. It rises in Mount Hermon, flows through the lake of Tiberias, and, traversing Palestine from north to south, empties into the Dead Sea. The Jabbok and Gadama are its tributaries. The Kedron is a little rivulet, running west into the Dead Sea, f. M. .;^.'«i H i A: s , J SB NPP 410 ASIA. Ml' ■'■'.■ ii;' A^ 1 which also receives tlie Arnon, IVotn the east. The Kishon and Sorek, flowing into the Mediterranean, are the other principal streams. The chief lake of Palestine is the renowned Asphaltites, or Dt^ad Sea : it lies a kw miles south-east of Jerusalem, and is supposed to occupy the once fertile valley in which stood the cities of Sodom and Gomorrah. Its waters are salter than those of the ocean, of a disagreeable bitter taste, and very clear and limpid. Thoy are remarkable for their great density ; in consequence of whicli a person can swim with more ease here than elsewhere. The Dead Sea abounds with bitumen, or asphaltum, which rises from the bottom, and is found on its shores. From this substance, the lake derives the name of Asphaltites. This remarkable lake has no visible outlet ; and is supposed to be smaller in dimensions now than in ancient times. Its shores are a scene of frightful desolation, surrounded by barren hills and mountains : not a tree, nor a shrub, nor a human habitation is to be seen. As in the days of Moses, " brimstone and salt, it is not sown, nor beareth, nor any grass groweth thereon." The lake is called, by the Arabs, Bahr-el-Lout — Sea of Lot. It is estimated at from 60 to 30 miles long, and 10 or 15 wide. About 70 miles north of the Dead Sea, is the Lake of Tiberias, or the Sea of Galilee. It is 17 miles long, and 6 wide, and is noted as the water or sea on which our Lord walked, and where he rebuked the storm in the memorable words, " Peace : be still." The waters of Merom form a smaller lake, a few miles north of the former. The river Jordan runs through both these lakes : their waters are sweet and transparent. The climate of Palestine is exceedingly good. It seldom rains ; but the deficiency is supplied by the most abundant dews. The cold is never excessive ; and, although the summer heats are great, yet they are mitigated by a periodical breeze, which renders them supportable. The Scriptures; in describing the great fruitfulness of this coun- try, characterize it as " a land flowing with milk and honey." Although some have represented it as barren, yet, according to the best-informed travellers, the greater part displays a truly lux- uriant fertility, corresponding entirely to the description of the promised land ; and, where well cultivated, it is highly productive. In the time of David, the number of men able to bear arms in the kingdom of Israel was reckoned at 1,100,000; and from this, the total amount has been computed at 8,000,000. The popu- lation does not at present exceed 400,000 ; and is composed of Turks, Arabs, Greeks, Christians, and Jews. Of the latter, many have emigrated to this country, since the Egyptian conquest, im- ic Kishon and Iher principal lUites, or Dead :id is supposed jitics of Sodom of the ocean, limpid. They lence of which sewhere. Tho hich rises from s substance, the d is supposed to nes. Its shores barren hills and 1 habitation is to nd salt, it is not 1." The lake is It is estimated :^ake of Tiberias, id 6 wide, and is alUed, and where • Peace : be still." miles north of the these lakes : their It seldom rains ; idant dews. The jr heats are great, lich renders them Iness of this coun- nilk and honey." yet, according to plays a truly lux- description of the lighly productive, e to bear arms in 10 ; and from this, ,000. The popu- id is composed of 3f the latter, many itian conquest, im- PALESTINE. 417 pelled, no doubt, by their long-cherished attachment to the land of their forefathers, and also by the idea they entertain, that to die in Palestine is a sure passport to heaven. Though oppressed, despised, and scattered over every quarter of the earth, the Jews have always formed a part of the popula- tion of their original country. Under every change, and every revolution, from the day that the kingdom of David and Solomon passed into the hands of strangers to the present time, a remnant of the ancient people of God have constantly hovered around the holy city, waiting for the coming of a Messiah, to call together the scattered tribes, and restore them to the kingdom of their fathers. Palestine, and the other districts of Syria, were conquered by Mohammed AH, pacha of Egypt, in the year 1832, from the Turks ; and the whole region is now governed by his son, Ibra- him Pacha, under the title of Viceroy. The government is abso- lute and arbitrary. Though it affords to European tourists such protection as enables them to traverse all parts of the country with perfect security, yet the people are bowed down to the earth by a military despotism. All the able-bodied men are dragged to the army, and forced to become the soldiers of their warlike conqueror; and in conse- quence, many of the most productive and luxuriant parts of Pales- tine are without cultivators. Over miles of the richest soil, that might support thousands of happy families, may be seen, at distant intervals, a solitary Arab, turning up the earth with his miserable plough, and half-starved puny cattle. He sows, but he does not reap. When the season of harvest comes, the produce is not liis own ; the tax-gatherer takes not a fixed proportion, but what the pacha needs. .Terusalem, the capital of Palestine, is stuated in a mountainous region, about 35 miles from Jaffa, its sea-port ; though often de- stroyed, it occupies the same position as in the days of Abraham, near 4000 years ago. It became in after times the metropolis of tho Jewish territories, the residence of the kings, and the site of the temple of Jehovah ; and was rendered memorable in all suc- ceeding ages by the death and crucifixion of our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ, in the year of the world 4004. Forty-seven years afterwards this city was taken and destroyed by the Romans ; it was subsequently rebuilt, and has been since captured 18 times by different conquerors : it is now the residence of an Egyptian chief, who resides in a building that bears the name of Pontius Pilate, the Roman governor who condemned our Saviour to death. Jerusalem is greatly reduced from its former size and magnifi- cence : all that remains of this once splendid city is a gloomy ■' -•! •iis 1M 1 -a ^wp 418 ASIA. [L \ !-■' , ' ■ . • ^^i A! II-. ^'t m<:i'ir ■ ■: -i ■i'. if ;• ; .J 'im^. I: •V r|i:'.i I' '■/ * ( ''»' f /: ' ■ '^ '' -i '■ \ *1 3 * ' } '• i ■'' • . ^' ■ ■ - ,s rl't .■ -i,V'^ hV f** 1 'i'''-' ,t Hi^il' V'-; Turkish town, enclosing a number of heavy, plain stone houses, with here and there a minaret or dome, to break the dull uniform- ity. Two striking edifices, however, somewhat enliven the gloom of the city : these are the church of the Holy Sepulchre, and the Mosque of Omar : the former has long been the grand object of pilgrimage and visitation to the Christian world. It was erected by the empress Helena, the mother of Constantine, upon a site which was supposed to include the scene of the crucifixion, the tintombment, and the resurrection. At the time of Easter, it is crowded with thousands of pilgrims from various parts of Europe, Asia, and Africa. The Mosque of Omar, constructed on the site of Solomon's tem- ple, is one of the most splendid buildings in the east. Its nume- rous arcades, its capacious dome, with the peculiar costume of eastern devotees passing and reppising, render it one of the grand- est sights the Mahomcdan world has to boast of. Jerusalem is estimate li ;o contain from 12,000 to 25,000 inhab- itants, comprising Mahomedans, Christians of various socN, and Jews. There are a number of Christian convents, of which the Armenian is the largest: it contains upwards of 800 colls for the accommodation of the numerous pilgrims that resort to this place. This cily is an object of the highest veneration and the most pious regard to .lews and Christians, as well as Mahomedans ; the latter term it el Khods, the Holy, and also el Sherifib, the Noble. Bethlehem, six miles south of Jerusalem, is a village of 3000 inhabitants, memorable for the birth of our Lord and Saviour: it is visited chiefly for the sake of the convent built by the empress Helena, over the manger of the nativity. Naplous, 24 miles north of .lerusalem, is near the site of the ancient Samaria : this is one of the most flourishing places in the Holy Land ; it stands in a fer- iik> valley, surrounded by hills, and embosomed in stately groves and rich gardens: inhabitants, 10,000. Nazareth, noted as the residence of the Redeemer, previous to the commencement of his ministry, is 75 miles north of Jerusalem. It is a small town of 3000 inhabitants, and ranks next to the latter among the holy places of Palestine. The scenes of all the re- markable events in the life of .Toseph and the Virgin Mary, are here pointed out by the people. North from Nazareth is the small village of Cana, famed for the miraculous conversion of water into D wine Tiberias, a short distance north-east from Nazareth, on the west bank of the lake of the same name, was once a celebrated city, long the capital of Galilee, and after the destruction of Jerusalem, the residence of the Jewish high priest : it is now mostly in ruins. Near the tovn are the warm baths of Emmaus, over which Ibra- [one houses, lull uniform- !n the gloom hre, and the ind object of was erected , upon a site ■ucifixion, the • Easter, it is rts of Europe, olomon's tcni- ,t. Its nume- it costume of 5 of the grand- 25,000 inhab- ous sccK, and 3, of which the )0 cells for the rt to this place. , the most pious dans ; the latter le Noble, village of 3000 and Saviour : it by the empress , 24 miles north liria : this is one . stands in a fer- n stately groves mer, previous to •th of Jerusalem, next to the latter ;s of all the re- irgin Mary, are ireth is the small iion of water into ireth, on the west celebrated city, ion of Jerusalem, mostly in ruins. over which Ibra- PALESTINK. 419 him Pacha has lately erected a circular building, with a dome, like the baths of Constantinople. Saphet or ZafTad, 90 miles north of Jerusalem, is considered n holy city by the Jews, who believe that the Messiah, whom they expect, will establish the seat of his empire here. A few years ago the town contained 3000 inhabitants, of whom about one-third were Jews. Both Tiberias and Saphet were a short time since nearly destroyed by an earthqurxke. Gaza, Jaffa, and Acre, are the principal places on the coast. Gaza, noted from the earliest ages, and celebrated for the acts of Sampson, is a decayed town, of about 5000 inhabitants, who carry on some trade in cotton goods, &c. Jaffa, anciently Joppa, was conspicuous as the port of Judea, and the only point by which David and Solomon communicated with the Mediterranean Sea : tradition reports that it existed before the Deluge, and that it was the residence of Noah, and the place where he built the ark. Here .Tonah embarked for Tarshish, and the apostle Peter raised Tabitha from the dead. The town is environed with gardens, where lem- ons, oranges, citrons, watermelons, &c. grow in great perfection. Jaffa has been lately destroyed by an earthquake, and a great part of the inhabitants perished. About 65 miles north of Jaffa is Acre, the population of which, previous to the year 1832, was reckoned at 25,000. Both these places became famous during the Crusades, and also at the close of last century, when Syria was invaded by Bonaparte. That general besieged Acre, but was repulsed with loss, and compelled to retreat. In the year 1832, this city was captured by an Egyptian army, after a siege of six months, during which, 25,000 of the inhabit- ants and combatants perished by the ravag -; of disease and of the sword. The city and its population were, in consequence, nearly destroyed. It has been since that t'nric rebuilt and strongly fortified; and now forms the principal military station of the Egyptian forces in this quarter. Hebron, the city and first capital of David, is situated about 20 miles south from Jerusalem. It is now a small decaying town, the jiOpulation of which is composed principally of Arabs, with a few Jewish families. The inhabitants are noted as the most law- less and desperate race in Palestine ; and they sustained precisely the same character in the time of David. The reputed tombs of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, are shown here. A few miles from Hebron, there are three noble reservoirs, supplied by a spring called the pools of Solomon ; the waters of which are conveyed to Jerusalem by a small aqueduct. These structures are in good preservation, and are supposed to be, in ' -i; =lt :u'i' ,».IJl \ I 420 ASIA. reality, the work of their alleged founder. They are of different altitudes ; the water from the first runs into the second, and from the second into the third. ARABIA. r: m.. V'^il ■ 1^;- ;. I f', ^'^ .' "I Arabia forms a great peninsula, occupying the south-west corner of Asia. It is bounded on the north, by Asiatic Turkey and Syria ; east, by the Persian Gulf and the Arabian Sea ; west, by the Red Sea, Egypt, and Syria ; and south, by the Arabian Sea. It is about 1500 miles long from north to south, and 1300 wide from east to west. Area in square miles, 990,000. The general aspect of Arabia is that of a vast sandy desert, in- terspersed, in various directions, with numerous ridges of moun- tains, none of which, however, attain to much elevation. Water is generally scarce ; and there are no rivers or lakes of any size or importance. Of its mountains, Sinai and Horeb are highly celebrated ; and are rendered famous by some of the most remarkable events ever recorded. The Ramleah and Sofra mountains of the Hedjaz, and the Nos Labau, in Hadramaut, are but im|)erfectly known. Along the whole western coast of the Red Sea, a narrow sandy belt oi" country extends, called the Tehama, behind wiiich the land rises, not into the naked rocks and sandy deserts of the interior, but often into hills of moderate elevation, covered in parts with a rich and varied vegetation, which contrasts beautifully with the sur- rounding waste. These favoured spots are found mostly in Yemen and Omon. The extensive barren region which stretches fron Mecca to Muscat, is called the desert of Akhaf. It is, for tho most part, destitute of water ; but is frequently traversed by the caravans. Arabia was divided Ly the ancients into three great divisions : Arabia Felix, or the happy ; Arabia Petrsea, or the stony ; and Arabia Deserta, or the sandy. These names are still in common use among Europeans, but are not known or recognized by the natives. The actual local divisions are : 1st. The Hedjaz, situated along the upper coasts of the Red Sea. 2d. Yemen, lying on the lower shores of the Red Sea, and on the Gulf of Aden. 3d. Hadra- maut, whose coast is washed by the Arabian Sea, or Indian Ocean. 4th. Omon, lying partly on the Sea of Omon, and on the Persian Gulf. 5th. Lahsa, or Hajar, extending from Omon, along the Persian Gulf to the river Euphrates. 6th. Nedsjed, the country IS* '• e of different ,nd, and from ;he south-west Asiatic Turkey lian Sea ; west, )V the Arabian outh, and 1300 5,000. andy desert, in- idges of moun- ■vation. Water ikes of any size celebrated; and table events ever • the Hedjaz, and jr known. Along ^w sandy belt ot :h the land rise?, the interior, but parts with a rich Uy with the sur- mostly in Yenien jh stretches fron af. It is, for the traversed by the « great divisions : r the stony ; an^ •e still in common recognized by the iaz, situated along living on the lower \den. 3d. Hadra- t or Indian Ocean. Ind on the Persian Omon, along the jdsjed, the country ARABIA. 421 of the Wahabees, occupying the centre of Arabia, between Lahsa and the Hedjaz. The soil of Arabia is, in a peculiar degree, arid and barren. On a great part of its surface, no grain can be raised at all; and in others, only that coarse kind of millet called dhourra, which is the general food of the inhabitants in various sandy regions. Many parts of Yemen and Omon form, however, exception's to the general sterility of this country, being productive and weU cul- tivated. The inhabitants of these districts are skilful and indus- trious husbandmen ; they water their lands with great care and attention, and display some ingenuity in their contrivances for that purpose. Coffee is the most important product, particularly of Yemen ; but wheat and Indian-corn, indigo, pepper, the balm of Mecca, senna and tamarinds, ..bound, together with the principal fruits of temperate and tropical climates. The horse and camel are the principal animals of this country ; the former, as to swiftnee« and beauty, erijoys a higher reputation than any other species in the world. This is maintained by an almost fantastic attention to their birth and training. The wan- :!ering Arab of the desert places his highest felicity in his horses, and is so attached to them that they are more his companions than his servants. These animals possess in the most eminent degree the qualitits of endurance, vigour, and admirable temper. The camel, which seems to have been created expressly for the soft soil and thirsty plains of Arabia, is indigenous to that country, and seems to have been transported thence to the wide tracts of similar character, which cover so great a part of northern Africa. Even the ess is here of a superior breed, tall and handsome, and gene- rally preferred for travelling to any other animal. Manufactures of any kind can scarcely be said to exist in Arabia, with the exception of some quite common fabrics for domestic use. But for commerce, Arabia enjoyed an early celebrity. At all periods prior to the discovery of the passage by the Cape of Good Hope, the greater part of the rich commodities of India were trans- ported either up the Red Sea, or across the country from the Per- sian Gulf. The desert glittered with pearls and gems ; and ma- jestic cities, that lie now in ruins, arose amid the waste. Since this trade has taken a different direction, the maritime commerce is almost wholly limited to the export of coffee, in exchange for the manufactures of Hindooslan. Some gum arable, senna leaves, aloes, myrrh, and frankincense, are also exported. A great part of the three las. are brought however from the opposite coast of Berbora. Arabia has, from the earliest ages, comprised a number of small tribes or states, ruled by chiefs styled sheiks and imams. These 30 ^'J t HiM i.,i ■:|)f* 422 ASIA. W il m 'J. are each independent of the others and govern their reapective ter- ritories with a sort of patriarchal sway. Every little community is considered as a distinct family, the head of which exercises paternal authority over the rest. The Arabian chiefs are proud to excess of their high descent, being each considered as the natu- ral head of a race so remote, that its origin is traced back for thousands of years. A sheik of nn ancient Arab tribe would not exchange his title for that of sultan. The dignity of sheritFe implies a direct lineage from Mahomed, and is marked by the privilege of wearing a ^^reen turban. This distinction is diffused to some extent, and descends oAen to tho poorest among the people. When the green turban is worn by the head of an ancient tribe, 't denotes the highest dignity thu, ^an exist in Arabia. The religion of Mahomed still maintains undisputed sway in Arabia ; and Christians, who were once numerous, are now entirely extinct. The rival sects of the Sonnites and the Sheas \,dve each their respective districts in Arabia. The former ranks first, hav- ing always had in their possession the holy cities of Mecca and Medina. The Wahabees, who arose during the last century, were for a time the dominant people in Arabia, but their power is now greatly restricted. These people acknowledge the Koran as their religious guide, but deny the lawfulness of paying divine honours to Ma- homed, whom they consider as a mere man. The Rechabites are a tribe of Jews, residing in the interior of the Hedjaz, who have preserved the rites and the sacred books of their religion. They live like their original ancestors, in tents, and liave adopted the plundering habits of the Bedouins. Mahomcdanism, or Islamism, was founded by Mahomed, an im- postor, born at Mecca in the year 571. At the age of 40, he pre- tended to be a prophet sent by God to reveal a new religion to mankind. Though strenuously opposed at first, he in the course of 22 years established his system over the greater part of Arabia. An intimate knowledge of the genius and feelings of his country- men, a large share of cunning, and some military talent, season- ably exerted, appear to have been the chief causes of the rapid extension of the new doctrines. Under the guidance of the imme- diate successors of Mahomed, and of the Caliphs, it was extended over some of the finest and most populous portions of the world known at that time. Mahomed taught the worship of one God, the immortality of the soul, and a future judgment ; he admitted of the divine mission of Moses and of our Saviour Jesus Christ, and acknowledged the sacred character of the old and new testaments. He forbade the ARABIA. 423 _ the immortality of )f the divine mission d acknowledged the He forbade the use of wiiie and pork, prescribed circumcision, occasional fasts, and a pilgrimage to Mecca, the place of his birth. This system permits much that Christianity forbids as criminal, and promises a paradise where every believer will have thousands of slaves at his command, and every appetite and every passion will bo gratified, its chief characteristics are gross sensuality, a rigid observance of ceremonies, and a spirit of hostility towards all other sects. The sacred book of the Mahomedans is the Koran ; it is considered by them to be of divine origin, is extolled for the sublimity of its language, nnd is written in Arabic. The temples of this faith are called mosques, and service is performed in them every Friday. The Arabs are of a sallow complexion, with dark sparkling eyes ; they arc small, thin, and spare in person, and those inhabit- ing the desert are meagre even to emaciation, yet they are active and agile, and are capable of enduring great fatigue : they excel in horsemanship, and possess generally a considerable share of |iersonal courage. From the sterile character of the country, these people are obliged to live in the most ak temious manner : a few dates, or a small piece of hard bread with a little butter or milk, furnish a meal. Animal food is but seldom used, and even among the rich there is hardly any variety of vegetable diet. On occasions, how- ever, when an ample supply of provisions can be procured, the Bedouins never fail to make amends for their usual frugal fare, and have been known to consume a vast amount of food. The Arabs are divided into two great classes — the inhabitants of the desert, or Bedouins, and the people of the towns. The former have no settled dwellings, but live in tents, and wander about from place to place, in search of water and pasture. VVhen they have exhausted these in one place, they remove to another. The life of a Bedouin is precisely the same as that of the patriarchs of old. Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, were Bedouins in their habits ; and four thousand years have not made the slightest alteration in the charncter and condition of this remarkable people. The Bedouins are usually described as hospitable and courteous to those who are in a defenceless state, and claim their protection ; yet, in some recent instances, a love of gain seemed to be their ruling principle ; and buckshish (money) the most eflectual agent in gaining their services and respect. The caravans, which tra- verse the desert laden with merchandise, nnd such travellers as they suppose will furnish a rich booty, are deemed lawful prey. The inhabitants of the towns are conposed of Arabs, Jews, and Banians, or Hindoo merchants ; who are all engaged, to some ex- tent, in traffic. The first are regarded, by their brethren of the i-fV i ■ I ■•. 1 - •■? ■■■; .. i'-'.'. I J 1 -I'-i. '• mii Ifl;*^ .T»!i ■ 'II mmm 424 ASIA. I If y- k Y '41 fe:. i<^' .■■•■ '•.}!■ desert as a degenerate and debased race, whom they scarcely own us l)elonging to the same nation with themselves. The people residing on many parts of the coast, especially of the Persian Gulf, have long been noted pirates. They scruple not to capture nil vessels they can master ; the crews of which they generally destroy. The practice of revenge, for real or supposed injuries, is carried by the Arabs to the greatest height ; and individuals, in conse- quence, go always armed. These people are studiously polite : when two Bedouins meet, they shako hands many times, and with numerous and peculiar ceremonies. Coolness, command of tem- per, and gravity of mien and deportment, are common, and are even affected by children v.t an early age. The Arabs are, not- withstanding, more social in their habits than most oriental nations, and in the towns, the people resort much to coflee-houses, the only public plucfs known in the East. The Arabic ranks among the classic languages of Asia. It is spoken to a great extent ; and a number of distinguished works have been produced in it. The Arabs were, for a time, the most learned of nations; and many of the sciences were ardently studied, and carried to a hi^h state of perfection in the courts of the Caliphs : but, owing to the downfall of the Saracenic empire, and the bigotry and ignorance of the Arabian nations of later times, the learning and knowledge once so much prized, is now almost unknown. Arabia has still poets, who celebrate the exploits of the sheiks and warriors ; but none of them can dispute the palm with the an- cient bards of the nation. The Arabs claim to be descended from Ishmael, the son of Abraham and Hagar ; and never has prophecy received a more accurate and remarkable fulfilment than in the prediction portray- ing the destiny and character of their ancestor : — " Behold, I will make him a great nation ; he will be a wild man : his hand will be against every man, and every man's hand against him :" — than which, a more marked and impressive description of what his posterity are, and have always been, could not be given. Arabia has never been wholly conquered. Although the Arabs subdued a great part of Africa and the East, and carried their arms to the Atlas and the Himmaleh, to ihe Pyrenees and the Cau- casus, they have never lost their aicient independence, and have never been conquered in their turn. The sandy nature of the country, and the difficulty of obtain- ing water to any >xtent, are almost insuperable obstacles to the progress of a host le force. The most extensive inroad, perhaps, ever made in Aral da by a foreign power, was that efFected by the y scarcely own u The people of the Persian I not to capture they generally juries, is carried iuals, in conse- udiously polite: times, and with immand of tern- ommon, and are 3 Arabs are, not- t oriental nations, j-houses, the only es of Asia. It ia itinguished works 1 of nations ; and carried to a his_h but, owing to the try and ignorance ng and knowledge loits of the sheiks palm with the an- imael, the son of ,y received a more prediction portray- ;— " Behold, I will lan •. his hand will d against him :' — cription of what his be given. Although the Arabs , and carried their •enees and the Cau- lendence, and have difficulty of obtain- ble obstacles to the ive inroad, perhaps, that effected by the ARABIA. 425 army of Mohamed All, in 1818, from Mecca to Dcraia, a dis- tance of 50U miles. The principal states of Arabia arc Mecca, Yemen, Muscat, and the territory of the Wahabees. MECCA. The Shcriffat of Mecca, included in the Hedjaz, occupies the chief part of the western shore of the Red Sea. This is the holy land of the Mahomcdans, and contains the cities of Mecca and Medina. It was conquered some time ago by the Wahabees ; but those rude warriors b-ing driven back to their own country by the pacha of Egypt, this state is now included in his dominions. Mecca, celebrated as the birth-place of Mahomed, and the most holy city of his disciples, is situated 40 miles inland from the Ked !Sea. It is entirely supported by the concourse of pilgrims from every part of the Mahomedan world. The chief ornament of Mecca is the famous temple, in the interior of which is the Kaaba, or house of the prophet, a plain square structure. The most sacred relic in the Kaaba is the stone said to have been brought by the angel (iabriel to Ibrm the foundation of the edifice. The grand ceremony through which pilgrims pass is that of going seven times round the Kaaba, reciting verses and psalms in honour of God and the prophet, and kissing each time the sacred stone. They are then conducted to the well of Zemzem, situated in the same part of the temple, where they take large draughts, and un- dergo a thorough ablution in its holy waters. Another ceremony, considered as of equal virtue, is the pilgrimage to Mount Arafat, situated about 30 miles to the north of the city. The population of Mecca was formerly estimated at 100,000; but is now reduced to 16,000 or 18,000, the resort of pilgrims within a few years having greatly diminished. Jidda, on the Red Sea, ?,erves as the port of Mecca. Population, 7000. Medina, 176 miles north of Mecca, is celebrated as containing the tomb of Mahomed, around which 300 silver lamps are kept continually burning. The population is 6000. Yambo, on the Red Sea, is the port of Medina. Population, 5000. YEMEN, OR SANA. The Imamat of Yemen or Sana comprises the south-western section of Arabia. The interior of this state consists of those fer- tile valleys and hills, richly covered with aromatic shrubs and plants, for which Yemen is famed. The Imam, in the capacity of priest and servant of Mahomed, exercises a despotic sway over Ills subjects, who are estimated to amount to 2,000,000. His '1 ^li ■ 'i '^ M^- 1 \M4 M f : '7 ■t ■ ■ ■'( :l^' ■. H ■1 :■■ 4 ■t:% ■^ 1 426 A8IA. ) ■ i^ 4i i I military force is abuut oOOO men ; and liia annual rcvcnuo from 300,000 to 400,000 dollars, derived cliieMy from dutins on coHI.e. Sana, the capital of Yemen, is a handsome city, situated 128 miles inland from Mocha. It contains from 15,000 to 25,000 inhabitants. Tuas, about half tht< si/o of Sana, and nearer thu ci.ust, is surrounded by a rich fertile district. Mochu, situated not far from the southern extremity of Arabia, is the principal port on the RchI Sea, and the channel through which almost all the foreign intercourse of this part of Arabia is carried on. The chief article of export is coffee, which is cele- brated as the fmest in the world. Population, 5000. Aden, to thej eastward of the Straits of Babelmandel, was for- merly the emporium of this part of the world ; but it is now nearly all in ruins: and its trade in gum- Arabic, myrrh, and frankin- c rise, is divided between Mocha and Makulla. Aden has been recently taken possession of by the East India Company, which has made it a station for steam-vessels passing between Bombay and Suez. The town is now garrisoned by British troops. MUSCAT. The Imamat of Muscat comprises a great part of Omon, the most eastern division of Arabia. The sovereign of this stole is more enlightened and civilized than any of the other Arab chiefs : he has a navy comprising several fine ships of war, which are navigated in a scientific manner. His subjects are good sailors, and possess some of the finest native trading vessels met with in the eastern seas. A treaty of commerce was concluded between the United States and this prince, in 1835. All the ports upon the adjacent coast are tributary to the Imam, as are also the islands of Zanzibar, Monfia, and Pemba, on thn east coast of Africa : he holds, likewise, the islands of Kishm and Ormus, iu the Persian Gulf, and a considerable extent of the Per- sian co;\si around Gomberoon, besides the ports of Jask, Choubar, and Gwuttur, in Beloochistan. The population subject to hio con- trol, IS estimated at near 2,000,000. Many parts of Omon are eminently fertile and luxuriant. Lute travellers speak of the well-cultivated districts in terms of the highest admiration. The city of Muscat is a general dep6t for the merchandise of Persia, Arabia, and India. It is well fortified, and surrounded by d strong wall, within which Arabs, and Baniarss, or Hindoo mer- chants, only are permitted to resde: all others must remain in mat-houses, without the gales. Tne population, including that of the adjoining town of Muttra, is ratt"^ at from 40,000 to 60,000. rcvemio from lies oi» coillie. , rtitiiated 128 no to 25,000 nii nearer tho nty of Arabiu, ,anncl through trt of Arabia is , which is cele- 3. andel, was for- it is now nearly h, and frankin- Aden has been Jompany, which etween Bombay h troops. jrt of Omon, the n of this state is Iher Arab chiefs : war, which arc are good sailors, ;ssols met with in oncluded between tary to the Tmam, id Pemba, on thn ds of Kishm and extent of the Per- of Jask, Choubar, subject to hi3 coft- luxuriant. Late in terms of the le merchandise of ind surrounded by ;, or Hindoo mer- * must remain m , including that of 40,000 to 60,000. ARABIA. TERRITORY OF THE WAHABEES. m The country of the Wahaiiees comprises a largo portion of Ncdsjed, tho interior division of Arabia. It has been generally considered a mountainous, arid region , but tho numerous hosts that issued from it in the early part of tho pro^ent century, prove that it IS not throughout a desert. Tho power of tiio Wahabees originated about 100 years ago: after carrying their victorious arms over Luhsa, part of Yemen, and the lledjaz, they were driven back to thiMr original haunts by tho puchn of Egypt, whoso army captured their capital, in 1818, and forced the vanquished to make a humiliating treaty. Tho power of the Wahabees is now greatly reduced. Besides Deraia, the capital, the only known town, of any importance, is Ycmama, noted as the birth-place of the prophet Moscllama, the most cele- brated of the Arabian prophets before Mnhomcd. IIADRAMAUT. Hadramaut stretches along the Arabian Sea from Yemen to Omon. It comprises the petty stales of Makulla, Keshin, Seger, Morebat, and others, all of which are imperfectly known to Euro- |)eans. The chief of Keshin, besides his Arabian territory, is master of Socotra, an island situated about 300 miles to the south- east. The town of Makulla, the capital of the little state of that name, lies !;\b()uf 400 miles north-east from the Straits of Babelmandel. 'l las become, since the decline of Aden, the principal trading port twtween Mocha and Muscat, and is visited occasionally by Ameri- irj vessels for supplies of provisions, &c. LAHSA. Laiisa, extending along the western shore of the Persian Gulf, is noted for the piracies that have been carried on by the inhabit- ants of some parts of its coast. Lahsa, on a small river called the Aftnn, with Koneit and El Khatif, arc the chief towns in this region : the last is built entirely of rock salt. The Bahrein isles, situated a short distance from the shores of Lahsn, are famous for their pearl banks, or shallow places in the sea, which yield the finest pearls in the world. The town of Me- dina, on Bahrein, the chief island, contains about ."jOOO inhabitants. It has originated altogether from the traffic in pearls, the produce of the adjacent fisheries. At the head of the Red Sea, in one of the most desert tracts of this desert region, rise the holy mountains of Sinai and Horeb: tho former is rendered memorable as the spot where Moses received !l ,■4 i- 1, \1\' I ! / ! ■ii ' ' i , 11 firfl'M ■II i 430 ASIA. 1^^ M. I'i^ : - : saffron, and assafoetida. The fruits are of peculia'" excellence ; they comprise melons, oranges, figs, almonds, peaches, uud apricots. The most considerable mineral production is salt. There are some mines of iron, copper, silver, and turquoise stones. The principal manufactures are beautiful carpets, shawls, silks ; tapestry formed of silk and wool, embellished with gold ; arms, sword- blades, leather, paper, and porcelain. The foreign commerce, which is inconsiderable, is chiefly in the hands of foreigners. Bushire, on the Persian Gulf, is the principal port : its commerce is mostly connected with that of Bussorah. Some trade is also carried on between the towns on the Caspian Sea and Astrachan. The main commercial intercourse, however, of Persia, is that by caravans with Turkey on one side, and Tartary and India on the other. The Persians are Mahomedans of the Sheah sect, or of the fol lowers of All ; and are, on that ground, viewed with greater abhor rence by the Turks than even Christians : but they are not them selves an intolerant people. The Turkomans, Arabs, and Kurds are, however, Sonnites. Besides these, there are Soofees, a spe cies of philosophers, who profess to be the friends of all rrr nkind and of every religious sect; Parsees, or Guebres, also cay are not them- rabs, and Kurds, ; Soofees, a spe- . of all r-'J 'iVind, alsocai!'- ''•i''- ) embler ' ' ' - in Persia, Arme- >eopleoftheEast, L their ruling pas- si, have displayed which have been are also the most lers in the skilful attery. Dissimu- ing is never scru- raud and artifice. • Adzerbijan, Ghi- isan, Fars, Laris- vhole is probably le Persians is fine, )ssessing any very have settled in the native race. The om an olive tint to ks, or dwellers in .west, Arabs in the .rmenians, Loo^f ^' : the country. T-h® PERSIA. 431 Turkomans are at present the dominant people ; the Shah, or sove- reign, being himself of that race. An unhappy circumstance in the condition of Persia consists in the numberless hordes of robbers by which the country is ravaged. Her fertile plains are everywhere intermingled with mountains and deserts, tenanted by these rude banditti. Even those who defend the country in war, frequently plunder it during peace. Persia, though a warlike kingdom, has scarcely any force wiiich can be considered a regular army. There is a small body of royal guards called Goolam, and 10,000 or 12,000 cavalry sta- tioned near the capital. The main strength of the country has always consisted of the highland tribes, led on by their chiefs, or khans. The number of warriors which can be called out on an emergency, is estimated at 150,000 or 200,000. They are skil- ful horsemen, personally brave, and inured to hardships; but have very little idea of discipline, tactics, or the art of war. A body of 12,000 men was organized some years ago, disciplined in the European manner, and commanded by British officers ; but, being of late neglected, most of the Europeans have left the service. The government of Persia is among the most rigid of the east- ern despotisms. The Shah exercises an uncontrolled authority over the lives and fortunes of his subjects, whom he considers as merely his slaves. The wandering tribes who roam over many parts of the empire, are governed by their own chiefs, who, how- ever, acknowledge the power of the sovereign, and serve him with their followers in war. The Persians surpass in pomp all the eastern nations. The upper ranks are splendid in their attire : gold, silver, and precious stones, are lavished by them on their robes, and also on their sabres; and they even adorn their beards with jewels. Their horses are objects of great attention ; and the passion for obtaining those of a superior breed is carried to a great extent. Women of rank never appear in public without being veiled : they wrap numerous folds of silk round their heads, and wear long flowing robes. The harems of the great are filled, as over all the East, by negotiation with the family of the bride, and by the pur- chase of Georgian and Circassian slaves. Some change of feeling and opinion is of late perceptible in Persia. Christian missionaries are now received with respect, and listened to with attention, especially by the higher classes. Many of the latter have adopted the European style of dress; and the Shah has recently decreed that none shall be permitted to approach him, unless clothed in that manner : he has also allowed the inmates of his seraglio a much greater degree of freedom than they formerly enjoyed. ■:% I a '»1 t\M -;■ > K^ ' ■ '|! my.: .. 1 ■;':];'.■ : 1 ff»^-"-' =•■ 1' ■>.,." ill ■ -If 432 ASIA. The capital of Persia is Teheran, situated at the foot of the loft, iest mountains of the Elborz. It is four miles in circumference, sirongly fortified, and rather a camp than a city. It has no grand edifices except the ark, combining the character of a palace and of a citadel. In ''•immer the place becomes so extremely hot and unheaUhful, that all leave it who can. The king with the troops, and the chiefs with their atten'lr.nts, depart, and encamp on the plains of Sultania. The population of the city thus varies accord- ing to the season, from 10,000 to 60,000. Of all the cities of this country, Ispahan stands pre-eminent. By the caliphs of Bagdad it was made the capital of P» rsia ; and being placed in the centre of the empire, surrounded I )• a fertile and beautiful plain, it became a depdt of the inland commerce of the East, and attained an extent and splendour unrivalled in Western Asia. It was destroyed by Timur. but restored by Shah Abbas. Chardin reckoned that in his time, l.'iO years ago, it was 24 miles in circuit, and contained 172 mosques, 48 colleges, and 1800 caravanseries. In 1722, Ispahan was taken and almost destroyed by the Afghans, and the later sovereigns having preferred a north- ern residence, no exertions have been made for its restoration. It is still, however, a great city, with extensive trade, and some flour- ishing manufactures, particularly of gold brocade. Tabreez or Taurud, the chief town of Adzerbijan, was 200 years ago one of the most distinguished cities of Persia, and con- tained .'500,000 inhabitants. Since that time, it has suffered re- peatedly by dreadful earthquakes, and the destructive ravages of often-recurring warfare ; and has lost much of its ancient splen- dour. Population, 80,000. Of lato years this city has become the residence of the heir apparent to the Persian throne. He has encouraged the industry of the inhabitants, embellished the public buildings, and introduced many European arts and improvements. Two lithographic presses are now employed here in printing the works of the most esteemed Persian writers and various European translations. Reshd, the capital of Ghilan, and near the shore of the Caspian Sea, is described as a flourishing commercial city, having 60,000 inhabitants. Large crops of wheat, rice, and other grain, cover the fields in its vicinity : but the staple production is silk, which is either worked up within the province, or exported to Astrachnn. The chief of the other towns on the Caspian are Balfrush, with 20,000 inhabitants : Amol, with about the same population ; Fara- habad, and Astrabad, the capital of the province of the same name, on a small river, a few miles from the sea. These all have a share of the commerce of the Caspian. Meshed, the capital of Khorasan is a large and fortified city, PERSIA. 433 lOt of the loft, ircumference, has no grand a palace and jmely hot and ith the troops, ncamp on the varies accord- e-eminent. By •sia ; and being y a fertile and nimerce of the lied in Western jy Shah Abbas, it was 24 miles Bges, and 1800 ilmost destroyed referred a north- } restoration. It , and some flour- rbijan, was 200 Persia, and con- has suffered re- ictive ravages of its ancient splen- Jence of the heir [aged the industry 'rs, and introduced fhographic presses he most esteemed IS. kre of the Caspian [y, having 60,000 bther grain, cover fn is silk, which is }ced to Astrachan. bire Balfrush, with [population ; Fara- I of the same name, iThese all have a and fortified city, built upon a fine plain, and distinguished by the splendid mosque and tomb of the Imam Kesa, a noted Mussulman saint, which is visited by 20,000 pilgrims every year. Though much decayed. Meshed still numbers 50,000 inhabitants. Shiraz, the capital of Fars, has long been one of the boasts of Persia, from the beauty of its environs, and the polished ga-ety of its inhabitants. It has been the favourite seat of the Persian cnuses, and near it are still to be found the tombs of Hafiz and Sadi, the chief of the national poets. Its wines are the most celebrated in the East, and create a considerable trade. Thirty miles to the north of Shiraz are found the remains of the palace of Persepolis, one of the most magnificent structures which art ever reared. Its front is 600 paces in length, and the side 390. The architecture is in a peculiar style, but remarkable for correct proportions and beautiful execution. South-west from Shiraz, situated on the coast of the Persian Gulf, is Bushire, the emporium of the foreign trade of Persia. This is chiefly with India, but is not suflicient lo render the town either large or handsome. The remaining towns of this country worthy of notice are Ha- madan, Yezd, Kerman, &c. Of these, Hamadan is a considerable town, with 25,000 inhabitants. The Jews suppose that queen Esther and Mordecai are buried here, and accordingly many of them repair hither in pilgrimage to visit their tomte. Yezd, in the south-west part of Khorasan, is a considerable city, still floU' vishing as a seat of commerce, and of a valuable silk manufactory. Here is the remnant, amounting to about 16,000, of the persecuted Guebres, or Parsees. Kerman, the capital of the province of the same name, was one of the proudest cities of the empire, and a great emporium of trade and commerce. In the course of the civil wars at the close of the last century it was nearly destroyed, and has but partially reco- vered. Its munufacture of shawls and carpets is still considerable. Population, about 20,000. South of Kerman is Gomberoon, near the entrance of the Gulf of Persia ; it was formerly a great commercial port, but is now much decayed, and is under the control of the Imam of Muscnt. Near it are the islands of Ormus, Larak, and Kishm ; the latter is tolerably fertile, and contains a town of some size ; the former, once the great emporium of India and Persia, and whose name was a proverb for wealth and splendour, is now almost desolate, and its magnificent city a mass of ruins. It belongs at present to Muscat, whose chief is making some exertions to restore its pros- perity. 37 niW "i I : '1 li-'ii 484 ASIA. li. ''^; Kf. AFGHANISTAN. The extensive region bounded on the east by Hindoostan and west by Persia, was once incorporated in the Mogul, and more re- cently in the Persian, empire; but has been separated from the latter for the greater part of the last hundred years. It is divided into the distinct territories of Afghanistan, and Beloochistan : the former comprises the northern, and the latter, the southern, and least extensive portion. Together, these two divisions form a nearly square tract of country, 600 miles in length, and 700 in breadth ; inclosed on the north, south, and east, by the Hindoo Koo mountains, the Indus river, and the Indian Ocean ; while on the west, it is separated from Persia by a nominal line drawn along the eastern limits of Kerman and Khorasan. The whole region presents a sort of compound of Persia and Arabia : on the north, vast mountains, high table-lands, and rapid rivers ; on the south, rugged, rocky hills, with dry sandy deserts. The most conspicuous feature is the grand mountam chain of the Hindoo Koo, whose lofty summits, covered with perpetual snow, rise to the height of 20,000 feet above the level of the ocean. Se- veral subordinate ranges traverse the country : of these, the most important are the Solimaun, which runs parallel to the banks of the Indus, and nearly at right angles with the Hindoo Koo. The few rivers found in Afghanistan are, with the exception of the Indus, of inferior magnitude, and mostly tributaries of that great stream. They are but little suited for the purposes of navi- gation, being shallow, rapid, and rocky. The Helmund is wholly within this territory, and has no connexion with the ocean ; but, after a course of 600 miles, flows into the salt lake of Zurrah. The Furrah-rood is a small stream that runs into the same lake. The mountain tracts in Beloochistan give rise to numerous little rivers, or rather torrents ; nearly dry in summer, but rapid and desolating in winter. A great portion of this vast region is doomed to complete and hopeless barrenness, produced by the opposite extremes of snow- covered mountains, and sandy plains. Other sections, however, of considerable extent, bear an opposite charccter. Tlie lower declivities of the Hindoo Koo, and the high plains interspersed between them, are often equal in fertility to the finest pa;ts of Europe. Nor are these natural advantages neglected by a rough but active and laborious people. Irrigation, as in all the adjacent countries, forms the most important and arduous part of husbandry. lindoostan nnd 1, and more re- rated from the . It is divided loochistan: the e southern, and jquare tract of inclosed on the ains, the Indus it is separated astern limits of d of Persia and lands, and rapid •y sandy deserts. tain chain of the perpetual snow, f the ocean. Se- f these, the most to the banks of ndoo Koo. 1 the exception of ributaries of that puqwses of navi- lelmund is wholly h the ocean ; but, t lake of Zurrah. nto the same lake. to numerous little er, but rapid and d to complete and jxtremea of snow- sections, however, cter. The lower dains interspersed le finest pa?ts of ;d by A rough but n all the adjacent part of husbandry. AFGHANISTAN. 4'6(i Wheat and barley are raised on the high grounds, and rice, cotton, and indigo in the lower districts. Fruit and vegetables are pro- duced in such abundance, that their cheapness is almost unequal- led. Peaches, apricotp, quinces, and grapes of the finest kinds abound ; ard the date, fig, banana, guava, &c. are met with, in the warm, sheltered valleys. Water-melons grow in the dry, sandy districts to a large size, without cultivation. The people of this region have not extended their industry to manufactures, except those of coarser fabric, lor internal con- sumption. They cairy on, however, some trade with the neigh- bouring states; and the country is, also, a thoroughfare for u considerable commerce between Persia and India. This traffic is performed by caravans, which employ camels, where the route is practicable for them ; but in the rough moun- tain roads of Afghanistan, horses and ponies are substituted. Some dried fruits, assafoetida, madder, and a few furs, form the principal articles of export. In return, are received the manufac- tures of Persia and India, and even those of Europe, by way of Orenburg and Bokhara. Afghanistan is inhabited by various fierce and warlike tribes, of which the most important are the Dooraunies and Ghiljies ; each of these is governed by its own chief or khan, who acknow- ledges a sort of homage to the head of the nation, of which they happen to form a part. The people of this country are all com- prised under the name of Afghans or Patans, and are similar, in many respects, to the Persians. They Ibrm two great classes — dwellers in tents, and dwellers ill houses. The former occupy themselves with war, predatory excursions, hunting, and raising cattle; they have a strong attach- ment to a pastoral life, and seldom or never quit it ; this class comprise more than one-half the population, and are the ruling people. The dwellers in houses are called Taujiks : they are supposed to be the original inhabitants of the country, subdued by the pas- toral tribes, who regard them as inferiors. They occupy the towns and their vicinity, and carry on those trades which are dis- dained by the dominant race. In the cities and towns there are many Hindoos, Persians, Armenians, and Jews, who are all, gen- erally, engaged in traffic. The Afghans, who form the main body of the population, pre- sent in their aspect and character, a striking contrast to the Hin- doos, on whom they immediately border. Their high and even harsh features, sunburnt countenances, long beards, and shaggy mantles of skins, give the idea of a much ruder and more unpol- ished people. Under this roua;h exterior, however, are disclosed '; 'i ^ ¥.i'f ! J A ^P'lS ■'\i ,..- « i-'i. •* ' ■■'^^1- ■ ll ■^''fllj ■■,,il ,' ■) 1 I 1 1 .' ■ i i m. 1 ! ■'jfl " ■'^- ''vS' 1 ■ 1 I i :J'if ■! ^'i-B ■ ■: * ''{■fh : 'I-' 'H.' i 486 ASIA. m ■ w ■ ftr- it-"' estimable qualities, which advantageously contrast with the timid survihty of the Indian. Their martial and lolly spirit, their bold and simple manners, their unbounded hospitality, and the general energy and independence of their character, render them on the whole a superior race. These people have a tradition among ihem, that they arc descended from the ancient Jews ; and some writers are of opinion that they are, probably, the remains of the ten lost tribes of Israel. The established religion in this country is strict Mahomedanism, of the Sonnile or orthodox sect ; yet toleration prevails to a greater extent than is usual among Mussulman nations. Afghanistan has a language peculiar to itself, called the Pooshtoo ; it bears a closer cfhnity to the Persian than any other, nearly one half of the terms belonging to it, being derived from that source. A taste for learning is common among the Afghans ; and those who are considered well educated, are, in consequence of the near resemblance of the languages, generally acquainted with Persian literature. Afghanistan has not produced any writers who can rival in fame those of Persia ; and the poets by profession, are not to be compared with the same class in that country ; yet a consi- derable display of genius oden appears in the rude verses of the chiefs and warriors, who celebrate their own feelings and adven- tures. There are schools established in every little town and village, and even in the encampments of the pastoral tribes, so that the first elements of knowledge are widely diffused. The education, however, is of that limited and imperfect kind, common in Maho- medan countries. Afghanistan, at present, comprises the two separate states of Cabul and Herat ; the former was, until the end of the last cen- tury, the ruling power in this quarter, and comprised the whole of Afghanistan and Beloochistan, with extensive districts in Hindoos- tan and Tartary ; but since the death of the late Ahmed Shah, Beloochistan and Herat have become independent. The Indian provinces have been conquered by the Seiks, and the Tartar dis- tricts by different petty princes. CABUL. The kingdom of Cabul occupies more than three-fourths of the territory of Afghanistan, and is bounded on the north by Tartary, south by Beloochistan, east by Hindoostan, and west by Herat and Persia. It comprises an area of 270,000 square miles, and a population of about 5,000,000. The political constitution of this kingdom exhibits peculiarities which distinguish it from that of almost every other Asiatic mon- vith the timid irit, their bold ™d the general r them on the 1 among ihem, I some writers of the ten lost lahomedonism, lils to a greater Afghanistan has t bears a closer lalf of the terms lans ; and those ence of the near ;ed with Persian writers who can rofcssion, are not ;ry ; yet a consi- ude verses of the lings and adven- town and village, fibes, so that the The education, ommon in Maho- separate states of 1 of the last cen- rised the whole of itricts in Hindoos- ate Ahmed Shah, lent. The Indian nd the Tartar dis- nree-foiirths of the JnorthbyTartary, Ind west by Herat square miles, and thibits peculiarities lother Asiritic mon- AFGHANISTAN. 437 archy. Instead of the power being monopolized by the sovereign, or by the great lords or khans, it admits a large infuifiion of popu- lar elements. In every tribe there is a jeerga or representative assembly, without whose consent the khan cannot undertake any- thing of imfwrtancc. Among the people, generally, more respect is paid to the decisions of that body than to those of the khan, or even the monarch. The military power of the kingdom is composed for the most part of the stipulated quota of warriors, furnished by the dlfierent tribes who fight under the banners of their own chiefs. The Ghotaum forms a body immediately under the control of the sovereign, and comprises the best-disciplined and most efficient force in the country ; though brave and hardy, these troops, like all those of the native powers, are destitute of discipline, and their commanders are ignorant of tactics. This kingdom has been very recently conquered by an Anglo- Indian army, and may now be considered a province of the ori- ental empire of Great Britain. Fearful of the intrigues of Russia in this quarter, and desirous of interposing a barrier to the influ- ence of that enterprising power, the East India Company espoused the cause of their ally, the Shah Soojah ul Moolk, a claimant to the crown of Cabul, and sent in support of his pretensions, in the spring of 1839, a strong military force across the Indus. In June following, the supposed impregnable fortress of Ghiznee was cap- tured, an event, the moral influence of which was so powerful, that the army of Dost Mahommed, the opposing chief, 13,000 strong, immediately, with the exception of 300 men, joined the standard of his adversary, who in a few weeks afterwards mounted the throne. Cabul, the capital, is one of the most delightful cities in the world, being situated about 6000 feet above the level of the sea : it enjoys a temperate climate, and is surrounded by an extensive, finely watered plain. The soil is rather deficient in grain, but produces a profusion of the most delicious fruits, which being dried, are exported to India, and other countries. Cabul is a busy, bust- ling city, and its bazaar of i2000 shops is considered almost without u rival in the East. The population is 60,000. About 00 miles south of Cabul is Ghiznee, once the proud capi- t!il of an empire reaching from the Tigris to the Ganges : its splen- dour has disappeared, and it is now comprehended within very narrow limits. It is, however, strongly fortified, and was, until its late capture by the forces of the East India Company, considered impregnable. Peshawer, once the capital of Cabul, situated in a fertile plain, about 50 miles west of the Indus, has lately much declined ; and, '!,< ■■\^ m .1 'n ■lilt '!■ ^;.t:1-i^^' ^ ¥■: .5/ ' ^\ iill "«1 438 ASIA. ;?'■■■ u 1 iM: instead of 100,000 inhabitants, which it numbered '25 years ago, it now contains scarcely 50,000. The city is rudely built, and its few good public edifices are greatly decayed ; but it presents a pic- turesque aspect from the varied appearance and costume of the inhabitants of the surrounding mountains, mingled with the natives of India, Persia, and Tartary. Canduhar is a very ancient city, the foundation of which is ascribed to Alexander the Great. The antiquity, however, belongs chiefly to the site, upon which new towns have been successively erected by different conquerors and potentates. It is regular and well built, with four long and broad bazaars; but is not adorned with those magnificent specimens of architecture, which generally mark the capitals of great empires. Population, 80,000. Bameean, or Boot Bameean, about 100 miles north-west from Cabul, is remarkable for its two gigantic figures, one 120 and the other 00 feet high, cut out of the side of a mountain to which they are attached. The city consists of several thousand apartments excavated from the solid rock, some of which, from their dimen- sions, ap|)ear to have been intended for temples. Bameean is styled the Thebes of the East, and is a place of great antiquity. At an early period it was regarded as the metropolis of the sect of Buddha, and is represented by them as the source of purity and holiness. HERAT. Herat is a small kingdom of recent formation, occi'uying the most north-eastern portion of Afghanistan. It is bounded on the north by Tartary, south and east by Cabul, and west by Persia ; comprising an area of about 70,000 square miles, and a popula- tion of 1,000,000 souls. The country com|)rising the territories of this state, is an ele- vated table-land, lying along the base of the Hindoo Koo range. It is intersected in various directions by the branches of those vast mountains, and watered by streams which descend from their lofty sides. Many parts of the country are distinguished for their fer- tility, producing wheat, barley, and fruits of various kinds. This state has recently formed an alliance with the East India Com- pany, and may now be considered as a mere appendage to that great power. Herat, the capital, is situated on a small river of the same name. It is the centre of an extensive commerce, and has numerous manu- factories of carpets, sword-blades, &c. This is a very ancient city, and formerly belonged to Persia. It was in the zenith of its splendour in the 15th and 16th centuries. The Persian historians are diffuse in their description of its palaces, caravansaries, mosques, BELOOCIIISTAN. 4H» 25 years ago, y built, and its presents a pic- iostume of the nth the natives n of which is >wever, belongs jn successively ; is regular and is not adorned vhioh generally !0,000. lorth-west frcnn )ne 120 and tho in to which they sand apartments om their dimen- 3S. Bameean is sat antiquity. At lis of the sect of rce of purity and n, occi'uying the s bounded on the west by Persia ; es, and a popula- s state, is an ele- indoo Koo range, ches of those vast jd from their lofty shed for their fer- ■ious kinds. This } East India Corn- appendage to that of the same name. 3 numerous manu- is a very ancient in the zenith of its Persian historians ransaries, mosques, gardens, &c. Herat was besieged a short time since by a strong Persian army, which however retired without effecting any thing of importance. The country in the vicinity of tho city produces exccllont fruit, and roses in sucli quantities, that Herat obtained the name of the city of roses. The population is supposed to be about 60,000. BELOOCHISTAN. BELOocHisTAif , or the country of the Belooches, once formed a part of the Afghan empire, but became independent about the be- ginning of the present century. It is inhabited by a number of small, fierce, and independent tribes, governed by their own khans, some of whom are subject to the khan or sirdar of Kelat. This country extends westward from Persia along the shores of the Indian Ocean : it is about 600 miles in length, and from 200 to 300 in breadth, comprising an area of not less than 200,000 square miles, and a population of about 1,500,000. It contains several subdivisions, of which the eastern and northern are Cutch- Gundava, Sarawan, Jhalawan, and Lus ; Kohistan, adjoining Per- sia in the north and west ; and Mekran, extending along the sea- coast, from east to west, 500 miles. Tho most western part of this region is composed of a desert of fine red sand, so light and impalpable, that it is formed by the action of the wind into waves like those of the sea. This tract is in consequence almost' impassable, a journey across it requiring the most laborious exprtions and trying privations. Eastern Beloochistan consists for the most part of a huge rocky mass, called the Solimaun mountains, intersected by valleyis that are generally arid and rocky, the streams of which are for the most part destitute of water during the summer season, but in win- ter are filled to overflowing, and roll through their rugged beds with headlong rapidity. There are, however, hero and there, patches of good soil, capable of cultivation, where some grain, dates, &c. are raised. The Belooches are warlike and predatory in their habits : the different tribes frequently make chepaos or raids upon each other, burning villages and carrying off the inhabitants as slaves. Like many of the rude predatory races, they treat with courtesy and kindness the stranger who has, or purchases a claim to their pro- tection : the guest of to-day, however, may be robbed by his host to-morrow. The Brahoocs form an exception in manners and disposition to the other tribes : they seem to have been the original possessors of the country, and nrfj mild, innocent, and pastoral in .ij'f ,1^ h^ii 440 ASIA. their nobits, occupying little villages Bccluded in the bosom of the mountains. Tlic sea-const of Reloochistan is very abundant in fish of various kinds, as well as vast stores of oysters, und turtles of lar^e size. On these the people live almost entirely, ns they did in the days of Alexander the Great. The historians of thut con(|ueror's expe- (litlons called them Ichthyophagi (Fish-eaters), and no change appears to have taken place in their mode of existence since timt time. In consequence of the scarcity of pasture along the shores of this region, the few cuttle belonging to the inhabitants are fed as in many parts of Arabia, on fish and dates. The towns in Beloochistan are but lew and unimportant. Kelat is tlie chief city, and may Ix) considered the capital : it contains about. 2U,UUU inhabitants, and stands on ground elevated HUGO ieet above the level of the sea. It is tlie residence of a khan or sirdar, who claims sovereignty over a great part of the country, though his real power is nearly conBned to the district immediately adjoin- ing. The town enjoys the benefit of a considerable inland trade. It is subject in winter to such intense cold, that the khun and the principal chiefs descend and spend the severe weather in a lower and warmer region. Gundava, with 16,UU0 inhabitants, is the next town of import- ance to Kelat : it is situated in the midst of the most fertile, best cultivated, and populous districts in Beloochistan. Along the coasts are the small ports of (twuttur, Choubor, and Jask, possessing some trade, subject or tributary to the Imam of Muscat. Kedje, reckoned the capital of Mekran, is a considera- ble town, in a strong situation, the chief medium between the sea- coast and the interior countries. It is still held by the khan of Kelat, who has scarcely any other hold upon this country. Bun- poor is a small fortified town near the frontier of Persia. KAFFERISTAN. North of Afghanistan, is the country called KafTeristan ; it is an Alpine region, composed of snowy mountains, and small but fertile valleys, in which feed numerous flocks of sheep and cattle, while the hills arc covered with goats. The inhabitants are de- nominated by their Mahotnedan neighbours, KafTers, or infidels, whence the name of the country is derived. They are also known by the name of the Siah-Poosh. They believe in one God, but venerate numerous idols of stone or wood, which represent great men deceased : they have solemn bosom of llifi fish of various of l«rno size, id in the Any a (jueror'rt cxpe- ,d no change ncc since timt ong tho shores ibitants are fed portant. Kelnt lal : it eontttins vaicd rtOOO feet khan or sirdar, wuntry, though lediatcly adjoui- )|c inland trade, e khun and the lather in a lower town of import- most fertile, best iv, Choubnr, and to tl»e Imam of I, is a considera- )etween the sea- by the khan of country. Bun- Persia. Kafferistan; it is [IS, and small but sheep and cattle, ihabitants are de- laffers, or infidels, ey are also known rous idols of stone thev hnvo solemn TARTARY. 441 sacrilicrs and long prnyors, not failing to supplicate for tho cxtir patiun uf the Mussulmans, whom thoy regard with invincible aversion. Tho Mahorncdan nations are those with whom they are most habitually at war. When pursued, they unbend their Imws, and use them as leaping-poles, by which they bound with tho utmost agility from rock to rock. The Afuhans and others have sometimes confederated to make an exterminating invasion of their territory, and have met in tho midst of it ; but have been obliged, by the Imrassmg and destruc- tive mode of warfare practised ' y the KatFers, to nbandon the en- terprise. When taken apart from their warlil 3 propensities, these people are a kind-hearted, social, and joyous race. They are all remarkable for fair and beautiful complexioi .:(. The women are prized by the Afghan princes, at inmates ^i; Uabul, were found to be as light-skinned as any Europeans. TARTARY. Tartauv is an immense region, occupying almost all the cen- tral part of Asia. It extends from the Caspian Sea to the Pacific Ocean ; having Siberia on the north, and China, Thibet, Hindoos- tan, Cabul, and Persia, on the south. Length 4000 miles : breadth, from 1000 to 1400 square miles. Area, near 4,000,000 square miles. The predominant feature of this great territory is that of plains almost boundless in extent, covered with herbage more or less abundant, and occupied by wandering pastoral tribes, whose camps, like moving cities, pass continually over its surface. The principal mountains *>'.' ;.: is division of Asia are the Altay, on the north ; the Kuen-luu, cuid Hindoo Koo on the south ; and the Thian chan, and Beloor chains in the centre. With the ex- ception of the last-mentioned, they all extend, in nearly parallel ranges, from east to west, and are supposed to be elevated from 12,000 to 20,000 feet in height. Mony of the rivers in this region expand into interior seas and lakes. Of these, in the west are the Amoo, or Oxus, and the Sir, or Sihon ; both of which flow into the Sea of Aral. In Central Tartary, the Cashgar empties into Lop Nor ; and the Elah, and other rivers, into Lake Balcash. The great streams of the Irtysh, the Obe, the Yenisei, and the Selinga, although they have their origin in this region, soon break the northern barrier, and roll tt 'H it* .«Js " I ■i I ' I % 1.| ill! "I il, ^ 442 ASIA. I 1^: ; Ij',' . j^ '■ ■ , ' • \{ ■' ■' " i •■ ■•: .; m ■ V i{ y ■■■ f , ■ through Siberia to the ocean. Eastern Tartary is watered by the Amoor, which falls into the channel of Tartary, which separates the island of Seghalien from the continent. There are several lakes in Tartary ; of which the most import- ant are salt, like the ocean. The lake, or sea of Aral is, next to the Caspian, the largest inland body of water in the eastern con- tinent; being 240 miles in length. It is encircled by a sandy desert, almost destitute of inhabitants, and is said to contain great numbers of seals and sturgeons. The lakes Lop, Balcash, Zaizan, &ic., are but little known, and are of inferior dimensions. In the central regions of Tartary, a principal feature is the great desert of Gobi, or Shamo, which extends almost wholly across it, and reaches about 2000 miles from south-west to north-east, sepa- rating, like a vast inland sea, the countries upon which it borders. The surface of the desert is described as covered with short and thin grass, which, owin ■ 31 I ji m-^^ 444 ASIA. H ■ m^ ■.f . !m. black hair, and a clear, ruddy complexion. The principal divi- sions of this race are, the Usbecks, the Turkomans, the Kirguis,dEc. The Mantchoos, distinguished as the ruling race in China, are of a fair complexion, short and robust in body, and similar in ap- pearance to the Tungouses. Although these races vary in their aspect, yet the same wandering, pastoral habits, and the division into tribes, unite in fixing a similar name and character on all the nations who inhabit these extensive regions. The people of Mon- golia and Soongaria, or the Mongols and Kalmucks, are alone considered by some to be the true Tartars, and that the term is inapplicable to the other races. The favourite food of the Tartars is horse-flesh, so repugnant to the taste of all other nations. Horses, there, as oxen with us, are regularly fattened for the tables of the rich. To the same animal they are, likewise, indebted for their national and favourite beverage — the milk of the mare, fermented into an intoxicating drink, called koumiss. The Tartars also use bousa, a thin, acid liquor made from grain, and which is, likewise, much drunk in Arabia and Northern Africa. Two systems of religion divide Tartary, and are professed with rigid zeal through diflerent portions. All its eastern regions ac- knowledge the Shaman doctrines, and the supremacy of the Grand Lama ; while the countries of Independent Tartary and Little Bucharia have remained devoted to the Sonnite, or strictest sect of the Mussulman creed, for upwards of a thousand years. Though there is some attention paid to learning in Tartary, yet its particular character and condition are little known to Europeans. In all the Mahomedan states, some of the first elements of know- ledge are widely diffused ; and the principal cities contain colleges for instruction in the few sciences of which the precepts of the pre- dominant religion permit the study and pursuit. The regular abode of all the pastoral tribes, are tents, framed of wicker-work, and covered with felt ; they are often large and lofty, and being placed on wagons, when conveyed from place to place, suggest the idea of a moving city. A camp, or onool, consists of from twenty to fifty tents. The chief towns, &5C. are decorated with handsome edifices, after the Persian model, but none have attained any great celebrity. The national head-dress is a large white turban, wound round a calpack or pointed cap. Boots are worn by all classes, and by both sexes ; the women plait their hair into a long queue, like the Chinese, and are fond of gold and silver ornaments. The Scythians of the ancient world, the Tartars of modern times, have maintained in all ages an unchanged character. In war, their name has always been memorable. The scourge of T ARTARY. 445 )rincipal divi- eKirguisj&c. in China, are similar in ap- i vary in their [id the division icter on all the people of Mon- ;ks, are alone lat the term is I, so repugnant 3 oxen with us, To the same al and favourite an intoxicating usa, a thin, acid much drunk in e professed with item regions ac- acy of the Grand irtary and Little or strictest sect md years. g in Tartary, yet wn to Europeans, ements of know- J contain colleges •eceptsofthepre- are tents, framed » often large and jred from place to , or onool, consists &c. are decorated •1, but none have td-dress is a large cap. Boots are nen plait their hair of gold and silver artars of modern red character. In The scourge of God and the terror of mankind, are the appellations by which they are known to the neighbouring nations. Jenghis Khan, Tamerlane or Timour, and other Tartar conquerers, have, at differ- ent periods, nearly overrun the whole of Asia, and the eastern part of Europe. The military forces of the Tartar states and tribes consist of cavalry, which, for hardihood, endurance of fatigue, and even va- lour, are scarcely equalled in the world. They are, however, destitute of any thing like the organization and discipline of Eu- ropean troops, and in an encounter with them would, most proba- bly, be shorn of their ancient renown. The Tartars are a bold and energetic race, yet they are go- verned by a despotism as complete as that of any Eastern nation. Although the chiefs are, in many instances, chosen by the body of the people, yet they are always invested with absolute power. The tribes under the Chinese dominion are ruled with mildness and beneficence. The government checks the internal contests and predatory excursions of the pastoral tribes, and seeks to pro- mote order and industry. INDEPENDENT TARTARY, OR TURKISTAN. Independent Tartary, or Turkistan, though renowned from the earliest ages, and the scene of important historical events, is but imperfectly known at the present day. It stretches eastward from the Caspian Sea to the Beloor mountains, and from the Ural river to the Irtysh. On the north, it is bounded by Siberia, and on the south by Persia and Cabul. Length, 1400 miles; breadth, 800. Area, about 1,000,000 square miles. Population, 6,500,000. The chief divisions of this part of Asia are the territories occu- pied by the Kirguis hordes in the north ; those of the Turcomans, or Turcomania, in the west ; and the states of Khokan, Khiva, Bokhara, and Koondooz, extending over the central, eastern, and southern parts of the country. The four last are, for the most part, fertile productive districts, separated from each other, and surrounded on nearly all sides by arid aandy deserts. They form the region often styled Usbeck-Turkistan, from the Usbecks, a rude warlike race, who are the dominant and ruling people. GREAT BUCHARIA, OR BOKHARA. Bokhara forms a fertile and productive territory, extending about 200 miles along the northorn bank of the Amoo. The population is reckoned at 2,000,000 ; of which a great proportion consists of fixed inhabitants, cultivating the ground, or inhabiting 38 >., ¥■■ h U M: ¥'■■■ , i if'. fy:^^: t UH ASIA. towns. The bulk of these, over all Independent Tartary, as well us Cashgar and Cabul, consists of a race called Taujiks, appo. rently descended from an original native people, reduced to sub- jection by the conquering Usbeck tribes, who at present bear sway ; and the name is now generally applied to all who have adopted the saino peaceful and industrious habits. The military force of the kingdom consists of 20,000 horse and 4000 infantry, besides about 50,000 militia. The sovereign of Bokhara has the title of Prince of the Be- lievers, and his subjects are considered the most rigid in their religious observances, of all the Mussulman nations. The country is well governed, peaceful, and flourishing. CiU.ivation is only limited by the want of water, and by the naked character of the vast plains which inclose Bokhara. A considerable inland trade is carried on with India, Persia, and, above all, with Russia. From Astrachan, two annual caravans come by way of Orenburg, each accompanied by 4000 or 5000 camels. The imports are metals of various kinds, arms, cutlery, cloths, and other European manu- factures ; the returns are in silk, cotton, hides, rubies, and tur- quoises. The city of Bokhara contains 80,000 inhabitants, of whom 8000 are Jews. As usual in Asiatic cities, the habitations of the ordinary citizens are poor ; but there are a number of mosques, and madresses, or colleges, handsomely built of stone, each of which is attended by from 40 to 300 students. To every ma- dresse there is a lecturer ; and these, with the students, are sup- ported by funds consisting chiefly in the rent of lands or houses, appropriated to that purpose by Mahomedan zeal and charity. About 200 miles to the east of Bokhara is Samarcand. Its walls still inclose a circuit of forty-eight miles. The beauty of its environs, and the delicacy of its fruits, are still extolled in the same lofty terms which were used by the writers of the middle ages. This renowned capital of Asia is now, however, little better than a mass of ruins. Balk, the capital of the ancient Bactria, and the rival of Nine- veh and Babylon, possesses in Asia the fame of almost unknown antiquity. It is commonly called, in the East, the mother of cities ; and the inhabitants have a tradition that it was founded bv Adam. It retains, however, a mere shadow of its ancient grandeur. Only one corner of the wide circuit which its walls inclose is now inhab- ited, and does not contain more than 2000 souls. KHOKAN. This khanat extends to the northward of Bokhara, and along the eastern boundary of Turkistan. Situated on both sides of the !■;■-'■ irtary, as well raujiks, appo- fiduced to sub- present bear all who have The military 4000 infantry, ince of the Be- t rigid in their s. The country ivation is only jharacter of the ble inland trade h Russia. From Orenburg, each ports are metals European manu- rubies, and tur- litants, of whom labitations of the (iber of mosques, f stone, each of To every ma- itudents, are sup- lands or houses, and charity. Samarcand. Its The beauty of its itoUed in the same the middle ages. r, little better than the rival of Nine. almost unknown e mother of cities; founded by Adam. It grandeur. Only close is now inhab- akhara, and along both sides of the TARTARY 447 Sihon or Sir rlv^r, its fields and meadows are fertilizeid by the waters of that stream. This state is known to Europeans by re- port only, but is said to be a fine productive district, similar in cul- tivation and improvement to Bokhara, but inferior in area and population. The inhabitants are estimated at 1,500,000. Khokan, of modern origin, and recently made the capital, has risen from a small village to a city of 60,000 inhabitants, with 200 mosques. It lies in a fruitful plain, watered by two small rivers. Khojend, the ancient capital, though decayed,. is still more than half the size of Khokan. Its situation on the Sihon is de- scribed as truly delightful, And its inhabitants as the most learned and polite of any in this part of Tartary. Tashkent is an ancient city, still very flourishing, and estimated to contain 100,000 inhabitants, with 320 mosques. North of Tashkent, and on the banks of the Sihon, is Tounkat, once cele- brated for its schools and learned men, and for its fine situation ; it being said of it, that God never made a more delicious dwelling than Tounkat. KHIVA. The khanat of Khiva is situated on the lower Amoo, and sepa- rated by a wide interval of desert from that of Bokhara. The cul- tivated part of this state extends less than 200 miles in length, and .50 in its utmost breadth, along the banks of the river. The canals derived from that stream are the chief means by which cultivation is produced. To Khiva, also, is loosely attached the roving population of those immense deserts which, on every side, insulate it from the civilized world ; from Persia, from Cabul, and from Bokhara. The population of the whole territory has been reckoned at 1,000,000; consisting, besides Khivans,of Karakalpaks, Aralians, and Turcomans, the general name for whom is Urgauntshi. About a third part only of the people of these races are fixed and stationary in their habits ; the remainder comprises various wan- dering pastoral and predatory tribes, who are principally employed in desolating the Persian province of Khorasan. In their plun- dering expeditions, they not only carry oflT every thing valuable, but also the inhabitants, themselves, to suffer perpetual captivity ill the heart of their immense deserts. The settled inhabitants of Khiva are described as gross and un- civilized, when compared either with the Persians, or with the |)oople of the other Tartar states. Their situation enables them to carry on some trade, similar to that of Bokhara, though on a smaller scale. One branch they have extended much farther, that of slaves, of whom it is estimated there were, some years ago, \ -■ i ^' . ■ ■ t :ir ■'.''- 148 ASIA. J ' ' 1- ; 1- ; 1;: , i if.' .; . , I':'' i '*■'! . i ■ : ' ll- I-';, ■ •, •■. r "* V ' . throughout Khiva and Bokhara, from 150,000 to 200,000 Per- sians, and 15,000 Russ'uns. The city of Khiva is situated a iihiirt distance from the Amoo, and contains 20,000 inhahi'ivts. It is poorly built, and is, indeed, rather a fixed encampjnenf, tiian a regular 'own. Even the ark, or palace of Use khan Is only >. .ar^', woodcj ; jnt-shaped building, plustered with clay. Urgauntsh, the ancion capital, is almost in ruins, though its situati )r. on the Amoo still preserves to it a little trade. Khizarist, a place distinguished in the revolutions of Asia, has experienced an equal decay. Mowr, or Merve, is a caravan station, situated alvjut ha!f-vvay hetwee?i Metiid and Bokhara, and inhabited by Turkomans, and some Jews. KooNDOoz, situated bet'.veen Jubul and Bokhara, and immedi- ately north of the Hindoo Koo mountains, is a small state, of recent formation, ruled by an Usbeck khan or meer, who has established his power over some of the districts lying on both sides of the Upper Amoo. The subjects of this chief amount probably to 500,000. He has a force of 20,000 horse, and renders himself formidable to his neighbours by his activity and vigorous policy. Badakshan, ont; of the territories attached to this state, is a long mountain valley, situated near the sources of the Amoo river: it is celebrated all over the east for its mineral productions, of which the most remarkable are rubies, the finest in the world, and the lapis lazuli stone, that furnishes the splendid blue colour called ultramarine. Khooloom, the chief town, is agreeably situated in a fine fertile district, and contains about 10,000 inhabitants, principally Tau- jiks, with some Banians, or Hindoo traders. Koondooz, once a large town, but now greatly reduced, lies in a marshy valley, and is proverbial for its unhealthful climate. Mazaur is a famous place of pilgrimage : it contains 8000 inhabitants, and is resorted to by devotees from all the neighbouring territories. Numerous mira- cles are related as being performed here, at the tomb of a celebrated Mahomedan saint. KIRGUIS COUNTRY. The whole of Independent Tartary lying north of the sea of Aral, and between the rivers Ural and Irtysh, is occupied by the Kirguis or Kirghese tribes. They are divided into three branches or hordes, called the Great, the Middle, and the Little Horde : the first inhabits the eastern, the second the northern, and the last the western districts. The whole region consists of extensive steppes or grassy plains, intermingled with sandy deserts, containing a vast number of small salt lakes. '■f .' ^.y!] TARTARY. 440 200,000 Per- )m the Amoo, and is, indeed, Even the ark, laped building, il, is almost in ires to it a little utions of Asia, e, is a caravan d Bokhara, and a, and irnmedi- 1 state, of recent has established oth sides of the jnt probably to renders himself igorous policy. is state, is a long i Amoo river : it uctions, of which e world, and the ue colour called d in a fine fertile )rincipally Tau- Coondooz, once a irshy valley, and is a famous place is resorted to by Numerous mira- tib of a celebrated rth of the sea of occupied by the ito three branches Little Horde : the n, and the last the extensive steppes lerts, containing a The wealth of the Kirguis consists in horses, goats, the large- tailed sheep, and a few camels. In these respects their possessions are said to be often very considerable. It has been chiefly, as yet, by plunder or contribution, that they have obtained foreign luxu- ries; but some, adopting more peaceful habits, have begun to obtain them by the exchange of furs, hides, &c. These people wander about with their cattle from one pasture ground to another, and live, like the other nomadic tribes of this region, in tents of felt. They acknowledge to a certain extent the sovereignty df Russia, which, however, is obliged to have recourse to measures both of conciliation and defence, to prevent them from making extensive depredations in its territory. In the former view, it grants pensions to the principal chiefs, and in the latter maintains a chain of strong posts along the Whole line from the Ural to the Irtysh. In their social and political capacity, the Kirguis enjoy n greater share of independence than most of the other tribes of Middle Asia. Their private life is directed by the maxims of Mahomedan law, of which they are strict observers. Under its sanction, the chiefs practise polygamy to as great nn extent as purchase or robbery can enable them, and a separate tent is allotted to each wife. The population oC the three hordes is supposed to amount to about 1,000,000 souls. TURCOMANIA. TuRcoJiANiA, or the territory of the Turcomans, extends along the eastern shores of the Caspian Sea : it is a sandy and rocky country, labouring under a great deficiency of water. The inhab- itants live in tents of felt, or in caves of the rocks. They are a set of rude shepherds, who often commit acts of robbery, and some- times carry off the inhabitants of the northern Persian provinces, whom they sell for slaves at Khiva and Bokhara, and also rob the caravans that trade to the latter country. The Turcomans are divided into several tribes, of which the most powerful is said to amount to 12,000 families ; and the whole nation is estimated to contain from 400,000 to 600,000 indi- viduals. CHINESE TARTARY. CuiNESfi Tartary is an extensive region, comprehending the northern and western sections of the Chinese Empire, and about four-fifths of the entire area of Tartary. It stretches from the Be- loor mountains to the Pacific Ocean, and from the Altay range to that of Kuen-lun, being 3300 miles in length, and from 600 to 38* I ! "I'lp- 450 ASIA. SUt; w WA;i-ni 1000 in breadth. Area, about 2,900,000 square miles. Popula- tion, 10,000,000 or 12,000,000. The whole territory, except that part of it occupied by the De- sert of Cobi, is a vast grassy plain, v hich appears to be better suited to grazing than agriculture. It comprises four great divi- sions. Little Bucharia, Soongaria, Mongolia, and Mantchooria. LITTLE BUCHARIA. Little Bucharia, called also Chinese Turkestan by Europe- ans, is the Thian-chan-Nanloo of the Chinese. This region is enclosed by the Thian-chan and Thsoung-ling mountains on the one hand, and the Beloor range and the great Desert of Cobi on the other. Although an extensive country, and including some of the finest tracts of Central Asia, it has remained almost unknown to the moderns. According to recent reports, the Chinese have driven out the native princes, and incorporated the greater part of the country into the kingdom of Cashgar, which, in its original limits, forms a wide plain to the east of the Beloor mountains. It is described as superior in beauty and fertility to any other part of Tartary, and as rivalling the finest tracts in southern Europe. The fields are carefully cultivated, are covered with large crops of grain, and the fruits are various, abundant, and of peculiar excellence. At present Cashgar appears to be flourishing under the Chinese sway. There and in Varkand, both Mahomedan countries, the magistrates of that profession administer justice and carry on all the internal affairs, while the Chinese military officers, called am- dans, collect the revenue and defend the country against foreign invasion. The city of Cashgar is the seat of government, and, though not the chief emporium oClhis part of Asia, yet a mart of considerable trade. Yarkand is universally allowed to be a larger and still handsomer city, and is said to contain 50,000 inhabitants. It is a place of immense resort, and filled with numerous caravansaries for the reception of strangers. Some other countries and cities enumerated by late writers as situated in Little Bucharia, are Koten, Aksou, Koutche, Turfan, and Hist; -. Koten is celebrated in the early histories and travels as an independent kingdom, of considerable extent and importance. Its temperate climate and fruitful soil are marked by the produc- tion of the vine and the silkworm. Aksou is also described as the capital of an extensive district subject to Cashgar. It is supposed to contain 75,000 inhabitants. Turfan is a large and strong city, the capital of a considerable country, governed by a branch of the royal family of Cashgar. TARTARY. 451 es. Popula* d by the De- to be better lur great divi- ntchooria. in by Europe- Dhis region is intains on the Brt of Cobi on uding some of most unknown driven out the of the country limits, forms a ; is described as )f Tartary, and The fields are )f grain, and the llence. ider the Chinese n countries, the ind carry on all icers, called am- ■ against foreign and, though not •t of considerable larger and still ihabitants. It is lus caravansaries , late writers as Koutche, Turfan, lories and travels t and importance, id by the produc- described as the It is supposed e and strong city, y a branch of tha SOONGARIA. SooNOARiA, or the Thian-chan-Peloo of the Chinese, compre- hends the most north-western section of their empire. It occupies a part of the territor situated between the Altay and Thian-chan mountains, and liki all the countries in this quarter, is imperfectly known to the civilized world. It may be considered as a western division of Mongolia, being in nearly all its features of tho same general character. It is peo- pled chiefly by the Kalmucks, who about the end of the 17th century had conquered all the central parts of Tartary, including the kingdoms of Cashgar and Koten ; but being attacked by tho united forces of the Chinese and Mongols, the unequal contest ended in the subjection to China of the whole of the great region east of the Beloor. The Kalmucks appear to have a more systematic and regular form of government than any of the other Tartar nations of this quarter. The khans of the difltrent tribes meet in a general coun- cil to elect the great khan of the Kalmucks. The marriages of this people are celebrated on horseback. On the day appointed for the nuptials, the bride, mounted on a fleet horse, rides off at full speed, her lover pursuing, and if he over- takes her, she becomes his wife without further ceremony ; but if the woman be disinclined towards her pursuer, she will not suffer him to overtake her. Goulja, situated on tho upper part of the Eelah river, is the prin- cipal town in Soongaria : it is one of the chief commercial marts of Central Tartary, and numerous caravans trade to it from various quarters. The population is estimated at from 70,000 to 80,000. Eelah, on the lower part of the river of the same name, was the Kalmuck capital when that [jeople were the rulers of Central Tar- tary. It is said to be rather a collection of towns than a single one. It contains a Chinese garrison, and has an annual fair, to which the Kalmucks bring a great number of horses. MONGOLIA. Immediately eastward of Little Bucharia and Soongaria, com- mences the country of the Mongols, a race of rude warriors, who, in the thirteenth century, under Jenghiz Khan, extended their do- minion, not only over the finest regions of Asia, but over a great part of eastern Europe, forming an empire more extensive than any which history had previously recorded. The dissensions which arose among the successors of the great conqueror, how- ever, soon rendered the mighty fabric feeble and powerless ; and the victorious arms of Tamerlane or Timour, in the following f«il' II ;i': 11 "'8 ■?« 462 ASIA. W' century, completed its destruction, n^ducing Ihf^ Mongols to their original condition. Mongolia consists, for the most part, of ciovHted, grnssy plains, over which the inhabitants range with their horses, camels, sheep, and floats. They are a rough, roaming, and active people ; but in domestic intercourse, frank, cheerful, and hospitable. Their main pride consists in the management of their horses, in which they show n wonderful degree of dexterity. Amidst all the privations to which the Mongols are exposed, they manifest a gay and cheerful disposition, and take delight in various kinds of sports and exercises. Complete converts to the religion of Buddha, they have lamas, feigned or fancied to be im- mortal ; and each of whose places is immediately supplied, after death, by another, believed to be a new body, unimated by the same soul. They have, also, monks, by whom the religious cere- monies are conducted. Among the Mongols, their warlike chiefs hold that pre-eminence, which is usual in such rude tribes. These people are divided into a number of little clans, separate from each other, generally hostile, and incapable of combining for any common object. China has extended her sovereignty over the Mongol tribes ; but that power, unable cither to maintain gar- risons, or exact tribute, leaves them much to themselves, and re- quires little more than that they shall not encroach upon her boundaries. mantchooria. The most eastern division of Tartary, or the country of the Mantchoos, forming the interval between China and Siberia, and bordered by the Eastern Pacific, is still less known than most of its other regions. It appears to be diversified by rugged and bro- ken mountain ranges, covered with thick forests, and separated by valleys, many of which, notv/ithstanding the coldness of the cli- mate, possess considerable fertility. Wheat is raised only in the most favourite spots ; the prevalent culture is that of oats. The product most valued is the ginseng, the universal medicine in the eye of the Chinese, who boast that it would render man immortal, were it possible for him to become so. The great river Amoor, after rising in Mongolia, traverses the whole of this province, receiving from the south the large tributa- ries of the Usuri and the Songari Oula. It alwunds with fish of the finest kinds, of which the sturgeon, in particular, is found in matchless abundance and perfection. The few towns that exist are inhabited chiefly by Chinese, defended by Tartar garrisons. North of the Amoor, the country is Siberian in character, and is igols to their Trnssy plains, iamcls, sheep, people; but liable. Their rsefl, in which i are exposed, take delight in converts to the ncied to be \m- ' supplied, ader nimated by the 3 religious cerc- r warlike chiefs (le tribes. . clans, separate )f combining for sovereignty over to maintain gar- Tjselves, and rc- iroach upon her le country of the and Sibe'ria, and wn than most of ,• rugged and bro- and separated by Idncss of the cli- ■aised only in the hnt of oats. The fal medicine in the ler man immortal, [olia, traverses the i the large tributa- Lnds with tish of [cular, is found in [/f towns that exist Tartar garrisons. chnmoter, and is INDIA. filled with a race of hunters, who find many valuable fur-bearing animals, among which the sable is conspicuous. The Manlclioos signalized themselves about 200 years ago, by the conquest of Chinn, and the emperors of their nation still oc cupy the throne of Pekin. They are by no means wholly desti- tute of civilization. Their language and writing is essentially different from that of the Chinese, or of any other nation of Central Asia. The former is the most learned and polished of any of the Tartar tongues. The provinces of Mantchoo Tartary, immediately adjacent to China, are called Kortchin, and Kirin, or Kirin Oula, of which the latter has n capital of the sar name. The most remarkable place, however, is Zhehol, the summer residence ond hunting-seat of the Chinese em|)erors. The gardens here are most superb and extensive, occupying a largo expanse of ground, tastefully orna- mented. The province which is reported to contain the greatest extent of productive land is Leaotong, bordering on Corea; of which Chinyang, or Moukden, is the capital. INDIA. India has been always noted for its great fertility and the abun- dance of its rich and valuable products. The remarkable character of the institutions, and the singular manners and customs of the inhabitants of its principal divisions, have attracted, from the ear- liest ages, the attention, not only of the surrounding, but even of far distant nations. The term, India, is unknown to the natives; it is, probably, of Persian origin, and was adopted by the Greeks, from whom it de- scended to modern times. The name was, at first, applied to an indefinite extent of country, lying eastward of the Indus river; but it is now used in a more precise and exact sense. Many parts of India were well known to the ancient geogra- phers, who, in their descriptions, divi.k'd it into India within, and India without the Ganges. Some of th« Ir o.ccounts respecting this region were long considered doubtful ; but the more accurate knowledge qbtained of Upper Hindoci^taa within the last 30 or 40 years, has served to verify most of their statements, and settle many disputed points. India comprehends those two extensive peninsulas of Southern Asia, which are bounded on the west by the Arabian, and on the east by the China Sea, and divided by the bay of Bengal into two great sections. The western, and more extensive division, is TTij| 1 ■* * 11 V 1 ■ I'l n ''I'll! 1 1P • .1 ■I i 464 ASIA. known by the various names of Hindoostan, dither India, and India this side of the Ganges ; while the eastern division is called India b(!yond the Ganges, Further India, Chin India, and also Indo China. Both the Indian peninsulas arc remarkable for the number and size of their rivers, whoso waters and inundations, united with the heat of the climate, make thcin the most fertile countries on earth. The term, Kust Indies, is used very commonly for the whole of south-eastern Asia, including China, and the numerous islands of Malaysia. HINDOOSTAN. Hindoostan, in every age, has ranked as the most celebrated country in the East ; it has always been the peculiar seat of orien- tal pomp, of an early and exclusive civilization, and of a com- merce, supported by richer products than that of any other country, ancient or modern. It is bounded on the north by Thibet, south by the Indian Ocean, west by Afghanistan, Bcloochistun, and the Arabian Sea, and east by the Bay of Bengal and British Birmah. In its most extended limits, it measures from north to south 1850, and from east to west, 1500 miles. Area, 1,200,000 square miles, including about the one-thirteenth part of the surface of Asia. This country comprises, geographically, four great divisions. 1st. Northern India, which contains the countries extending along the base of the Himmaleh mountains. 2d. Hindoostan Proper, extending from the former, southward to the Ncrbuddah river. 3d. The Deccan, comprising the whole region south of the Nerbuddnh, and stretching to Cape Comorin ; this territory is subdivided into the Northern and Southern Deccan, the first situated north and the other south of the Krishna river. 4th. The Isles, including Ceylon and the Corall' 'e Archipelago. The grandest natural feature of this region is, the vast moun- tain range of the Himmaleh, which forms its northern boundary ; it extends from the north-west to the south-east, and separates this part of India from the Chinese empire. These gigantic mountains exceed in elevation, all others in the world ; they ascend by suc- cessive stages from their base, and are robed, far below their sum- mits, in eternal snow. About the sources of the Indus, the Ganges, and the Burrampooter, they shoot up to an elevation of from 26,000 to 29,000 feet. Mount Choumalnric, the highest peak, attains the latter elevation, while Mount Dhawalageri and others are but little inferior. In the Deccan, the two great chains it iTidia, and iflion is called and also Indo B number and inited with the jtrics oti earth, the whote of rous islands of most celebrated ur seat of oricn- and of a com- y other country, 10 Indian Ocean, inn Sea, and east ts moat extended ,nd IVom east to J, including about great divisions, extending along ndoostan Proper, ddah river. 3d. the Nerbuddah, subdivided into ted north and Isles, including uai s, the vast moun- rthern boundary ; and separates this gantic mountains ' ascend by suc- r below their sum- )f the Indus, the to an elevation of larie, the highest Dhawalageri and two great chains INDIA. 455 of the Ghauts extend along the op|)ositP coasts, nearly parallel to each other. They rise in a low places above HOOO or 4U()() feof, but very rugged and .steep. One continuous chain, the V^itidhaya mountains, immediately north of the Nerbuddah river, kiins across the broad base of the |)unindula, and forms a rugged boundary between it and tho great plain of Hindoostan Proper. The rivers of tliLs country form a feature no less important than its mountains. The Indut>, tho Ganges, and tho Uurrampootei, are tho chief, and rank among tho most celebrated streams of the Old Continent. The Indus, or Sinde, forms the western boundary; its head brand), the Ladak, rises among the most elevated of the Ilimmaleh mountains, and within a short distance of the sources of the Ganges and Hurrampooter. In its course to the ocenn, it receives, among other tributaries, the Ilydaspes, or Surl3dge, famed in history since the days of Alexander. The Indus flows into the Indian Ocean by two great estuaries, which enclose a delta of about 70 miles in extent. Tho Ganges is tho most pre-eminent among the rivers of India, not only from tho great and fertile valley which it waters, the number of important ritics and towns on its banks, but also from the holy and sacred character it has maintained from the most re< mote ages ; the Hindoos l)clieving that its waters possess a virtue which will preserve them from every moral transgression. Some of the tributaries would, in many countries, rank as important rivers. The chief are the Jumna, Gogra, Gunduck, Cosa, &c. About 200 miles from tho sea, the Ganges spreads out into a broad delta, of which the numerous branches which enter the Bay of Bengal, are called Sunderbunds ; they are mostly shallow, except the Hoogly, or western branch, by which large vessels can ascend to Calcutta. The Burrampooter, the eastern limitary river of Hindoostan, jwurs a vast body of water into the lower Ganges, be- lore its junction with tho sea ; where the two streams united form a bay with numerous islands. The other chief rivers of Hindoostan are the Nerbuddah, which falls into the gulf of Cambay; and the Godavery, Krishna, Cavery, &c. the principal of Southern India, flow into the Bay of Bengal. This part of India has always been celebrated for its fertility, and for the profusion of its useful and valuable products. Its large and copious streams maintain, generally, throughout the country, a perennial abundance. The character, however, is, by no means, universal. All the western parts of central Hindoostan, except where it is watered by the Indus, the Ganges, and their tri- butaries, consist of loose sand, in which the traveller sinks knee« deep. A great part, al^o, of the hilly districts being overrun with underwood, or jungle, is unflt for any useful product. 11 4 V f HI s; iu ■: II .1 m : i it; ■f '* ■ 456 ABIA. I W '■: Although the Hindoos have ever been an agricultural people, and remarkable for their industry, nothing can be more imperfect than the instruments, or the skill, with which they conduct the important art of husbandry. Their slight plough, rudely con- structed, cannot jienetrate beyond two or three inches deep ; and the ground, being afterwards imperfectly levelled by the rough branch of a tree, as a substitute for the harrow, is considered fit for re- ceiving the seed ; yet this defective cultivatio . is generally followed by copious harvests. Rice is the chief product of this country ; dhourra, a coarse, arid grain, is raised on the dry sandy districts, towards the Indus, and wheat and barley in those tracts which, from their more ele- vated site, approximate to the temperate climates. The most important of the other products of Hindoostan are cotton, silk, sugar, tobacco, opium, and indigo; the two last have been, of late years, greatly increased, both in quantity and quality. Saltpetre from Bengal, and coffee and pepper from the Malabar coast, are also important products. Besides these articles destined for exportation, there are others consumed to a great amount, in the interior. The nut of the areca, combined with the leaf of the betel, is one universally used in India. Of vegetable oils, supplied from the sesamum, lint-seed, mustard-seed, and cocoa-nut, there is a large consumption. Woods of various kinds grow luxuriantly on the lower declivi- ties of the Indian hills. The canes, or bamboos, which abound in marshy places, are much used in building, and in the fabrica- tion of a multitude of articles of various kinds. The teak, unri- vailed for ship-building, flourishes in Malabar ; and that country also supplies sandal-wood, as well as others used for dyeing, or for ornamental furniture. The banyan, or peepul tree, is one of the wonders of Indian vegetation ; it is continually increasing : every branch proceeding from the trunk, throws out long fibres, which descend and take root in the earth. The circumference of one of these trees, grow- ing on the banks of the Nerbuddah, although much of it has been swept away by the floods of the river, is almost 2000 feet ; its various trunks or depending branches amount to more than 3000 in number; and 7000 men have been known to take shelter un- der its wide-spread shade. The principal manufactures are those of cotton, which, though nearly driven out of Europe by cheap and successful imitation, are preferred all over the East. Silk, though holding only a secondary place, as an Indian commodity, is still considerable. M'^oollens are not made, except in the northern mountainous dis- tricts, and are chiefly for home consumption. Cashmere manufac- )urra, a coarse, INDIA. 467 tures those beautiful shawls which Europe has striven to rival, but unsuccessfully, except in cheapness. The mining operations of this country are principally confined to one object, diamonds, which are the finest in the world ; for those of Brazil, though of greater size, are inferior in hardness and brilliancy. The Indian diamonds occur chiefly in the interior districts of Hyderabad, in the vicinity of Golconda ; the mines were once worked by 6000 men, but of late years their import- ance has much declined. The sands of the rivers yield, also, some gold dust, but not in a suilicient quantity to become a national object. Iron, lead, tin, and zinc are produced, the latter in great abundance ; and marble, alabaster, and salt, also abound ; of the latter, both rocks and plains are in some places covered with this mineral. Though the Hindoos, themselves, have never been a trading people, yet the commerce of this country has always been anxi- ously sought for, by European nations ; its distance, and the bril- liant character of many of its productions, have caused the trade of India to be invested with a splendour greater, perhaps, than its real importance deserved. The commerce of Great Britain with Hindoostan was for more than two hundred years exclusively carried on by the East India Company. In 1813, it was, with some restrictions, opened to British subjects; and finally, twenty years afterwards (1833), the commercial privileges of the company were entirely abolished, and the trade to India and China thrown open to all the inhabitants of Great Britain. The amount of imports into British India are about 40 million dollars annually, and the exports average from 50 to 60 millions. Nearly one-half of the commerce is carried on directly with Great Britain, and about two-thirds of the remainder with China. The Banians, or Hindoo merchants, Armenians, and Parsees, transact the chief part of the internal trade, and also that carried on by land, with the surrounding nations. This division of India has, for many successive ages, been the theatre of absolute empire, exercised by foreign military poten- tates. The basis of its population belongs to the Hindoo race, who, so long as they are permitted to enjoy their peculiar opinions and customs, quietly behold all the power and wealth of the country monopolized by any people, however strange or foreign, who pos- sess sufficient force and vigour to acquire a predominance by con- quest. They are destitute of patriotism, and have no idea of a country or nation of their own, in whose glory and prosperity they are interested. Their attachment is to a chief who possesses popu- lar qualities, and who purchases their adherence by pav and pro- 39 458 ASIA. (■r •^ \y.' !>■ motion. To him, they often manifest signal fidelity; but are strangers to every other feeling. Despotism is not only estab- lished by long precedent, but is rooted in the very habits and minds of the community. Such habits naturally predispose the people of a fertile region, bordered by poor and warlike tribes, to fall into a state of regular and constant subjection to a foreign yoke. The power which for many centuries ruled over Hindoostan, was the Mahomedan. Its votaries, as usual, entered the country sword in hand, announcing destruction to all unbelievers. Though successful elsewhere, their religion never made, in India, the slightest impression. The Hindoos opposed to it a passive, but immoveable resistance. The conquerors, finding in them such a fixed determination upon this point, while on every other they were the most submissive subjects, generally allowed them to enjoy their peculiar tenets in peace and quietness. In this country, the power of Britain is now entirely predomi- nant. This absolute sway of an island, comparatively so small, over an empire of more than 100 millions of inhabitants, separated from it by so vast a circuit of ocean, presents one of the most re- markable phenomena in the history of the world. Yet the subjec- tion is complete, and almost universally peaceful ; and the ex- pectations of its short continuance, which some entertain, are, per- haps, imaginary. The number of Europeans by whom such vast dominions are held in subjection, does not exceed 50,000. Their power, how- ever, is multiplied by that peculiarity in the character of the Hindoo, which makes it easy to train him into an instrument for holding his own country in subjection. " The Asiatic fights for pay and plunder ; and whose bread he eats, his cause he will de- fend against friends, country, and family." Accordingly, the sepoys (Indian troops, commanded by British officers, and trained after the European manner) are found nearly as efficient as troops entirely British ; and, so long as nothing is done to shock their religion and prejudices, they are equally faithful. The population of Hindoostan amounts to about 140 millions. Of this vast multitude, nine-tenths still consist of that original race who have remained always unmixed and have retainec unaltered, from the earliest times, their anciei.! -labits and institutions. The Hindoos are of a very dark complexion, with features simi- lar to the F'l-opean, and with a pleasing, and rather soft sxpres- sion of countenance; in Ibrm, they are slender and graceful. The females of the higher class, who do not labour, are exceedingly delicate and sylph-like, with dark and languishing eyes, and long, glossy black hair: many of them have complexions uhiiost as fair INDIA. 459 I, tf k jlity; but are ot only estab- jry habits and predispose the irlike tribes, to a to a foreign er Hindoostan, red the country evers. Though I, in India, the : a passive, but in them such a rery other they id them to enjoy titirely predomi- Uively so small, jitants, separated B of the most re- Yet the subjec- ul ; and the ex- itertain, are, per- 3t dominions are heir power, how- character of the an instrument for Asiatic tights for cause he will de- Accordingly, the icers, and trained efficient as troops ne to shock their )out 140 millions. that original race •etainec unaltered, institutions, with features simi- ather soft sxpres- nd graceful. The ;, are exceedingly ng eyes, and long, [ions almost as fair as Europeans. The races, however, bred to war, who inhabit the mountains and western tracts, are of a bodily constitution more hardy and athletic than the generality of the other Hindoos. The mass of the people are moderate and sober in their habits; a single piece of cotton stufi' suffices them for clothing ; their dwell- ings are the slightest and simplest that can be imagined ; their sustenance consists mostly of rice and water, and but little trouble is required to satisfy their wants. There are, however, some classes who display in their mode of living all the luxury of the east. The rajahs and nabobs, surrounded by numerous slaves, have their garments glittering with gold, gems, and embroideries; their apartments adorned with paintings and gilding, and perfumed with various odorous essences. Besides the Hindoos, the population includes Mahomedans, com- prising the descendants of the Mogul conquerors of the country, with a number of Arabian and Afghan emigrants, and their pos- terity ; Jews, both white and black, and about 160,000 native or Syrian Christians, on the coast of Malabar, besides English, French, Portuguese, &c., and their descendants. The Jains and Cingalese are Buddhists. The Seiks profess the religion of Nanek, a mix- ture of Brahminism and Mahomedanism ; and the Parsets, or Guebres, are fire-worshippers. Of the various races disting' 'shed in Hindoostan, the Mah- rattas are among the most noted ,»i modern times. They became celebrated about 200 years ago; but were at the height of their power during the middle of the last century. Their force con- sisted of cavalry, and they considered themselves always at war. In their various contests with the British, their strength was finally prostrated: their chiefs have 1 cm ome the tributaries and allies of the Company ; and their sovt/ jgn, the Peishwa, now lives on a pension granted by that power. The Pindarees and Bheels were formidable robbers, whose terocity and depredations were long the terror of Central Hin- doostan. The former isoembled in bands of many thousands in number, and performed journeys on horseback, with incredible speed, of hundreds of miles k extent, to effect their vile purposes. Both these scourges have been, however, exterminated by the British government. The Rohillas, during the last century, were noted, in Indian warfare, for their courage and gallantry. They were the descend- ants of Afghan tribes, who emigrated to the country lying on the upper banks of the Ganges river, in the vici"ify of Delhi. One of the most remarkable circumstances in Hindoo manners, 18 the division of the people into castes, of which there are four : first, Bramins, who are men of letters, and have the care of reli- m-: 400 ASIA. ir: I? r; .,■■. m !»■■■■• i ■ . r >';i-^-i R gion and laws ,- second, the soldiers, called Cshutriyas or Rajah- poots, (this class includes princes and sovereigns) ; third, mer- chants, farmers, and shepherds, called Vaisyas ; and fourth, Su- dras, or labourers. The Bramin is required to abstain from animal food and fer- mented liquors, and to perform religious rites and ceremonies. Some of then^, however, engage in employments of a secular nature. Many of then> are agents or ministers of the native princes, and some of them ei^bark in commerce. They are an artful set of impostors, expert in disguising the truth, and practising without scruple every artifice lu mislead the people and accomplish their own selfish purposes. The number of persons of this caste who are respectable for their knowledge and virtue, is extremely small. The Rajah-poots seem not to possess the general character of the Hindoos, being courageous, ambitious, and fond of a military life. Many of them are employed in the English service under the name of sepoys. The duties of the third caste consist in the lal. )urs of the lield and garden, the rearing of cattle, and the sale of landed produce. When they travel to other countries, they engage in mercantile pursuits, and are generally called Banians. Tli(3 business of ♦he fourth and most numerous caste, is servile lalMHir. They are compelled to work for the Bramins, being con- sidered as created solely for their use. To them the vedas, or holy books, must never be read; and whoever instructs them in religion, is doomed to one of the hells with which the world of spirits is provided. Such is this singular institution of castes. Each individual re- mains generally in the rank in which he is born : he may descend to a lower, but cannot aspire to a higher, whatever be his merits. The rigid a r-orents to caste never intermarry ; and, so complete is the separation, that they will not even eat at the same table. The religion of the Hindoos, derived from their sacred books, inculcates a belief in the existence of a supreme intelligence or Brahm, who holds himself aloof from the world, in a state of per- fect indolence and bliss ; having committed the government of the universe to the three divinities, Brahma, Vishnu, and Siva ; these form the Hindoo trinity. The Hindoos believe that those who withdraw from the world, and devote themselves to abstinence and self-torture, will arrive at supreme happiness, by being united to the spirit of their great divinity, as a drop of water is absorbed by the ocean. The doc- trine of the transmigration of souls is a part of the Hindoo creed : it teaches that the spirits of the less holy will pass into the bodies of other men and brutes, and those of the good into higher states of existence. yas or Rajah- ) ; third, mer- nd fourth, Su- food and fer- id ceremonies, secular nature, ve princes, and .n artful set of ictising without iccomplish their this caste who ixtremely small, ral character of nd of a military ih service under te consist in the ttle, and the sale r countries, they I called Banians. caste, is servile imins, being con- em the vedas, or instructs them in eh the world of ich individual re- he may descend ver be his merits. id, so complete is same table. eir sacred books, ne intelligence or in a state of per- rovernment of thf? ', and Siva ; these V from the world, ture, will arrive at irit of their great ocean. The doc- the Hindoo creed : ass into the bodies into higher states INDIA. 461 The people adore images of various kinds, and also the cow and the monkey ; and by many families one of the former is kept for the mere purpose of worshipping it. Under the blind influence of superstition, the Hindoos throw thjir children in the Ganges and other rivers, inflict upon themsiVlves the most painful tortures and penances, and seek death hy drowning, by fire, by being crushed teneath the wheels of their idol cars, and by throwing themselves on large iron hooks. The Suttee, or burning of widows upon the funeral pile of their deceased husbands, and the murder of infants, has been long prac- tised ; but the authority of the British government has been lately employed in abolishing these hateful customs. There is not, per- haps, in the whole history of the human race, a picture more truly horrible and disgusting than is presented by the idolatries of this infatuated people. The great efforts which are now making by various missionary societies for introducing Christianity inio India, have in many insances obtained a rich reward. Hundreds of Hindoos have renounced their gods, the (Jangcs, and their priests, and have shakon from their limbs tVc iron chain of caste. A large number of converted natives have in some sense become missionaries, and have been the instruments of turning many to a purer and more enlightened faith. All the societies engaged in the work of mis- sions, have far more calls ibr labourers than they have instruments at their disposal. Twenty times the number of missionaries, cate- chists, and schoolmasters, are wanting, and there is abundant evi- dence that, through the exertions now in progress, the fabric of Hindoo superstition is beginning to totter. The Hindoos, at a very early period, made considerable progress in astronomy, algebra, &c., and have an extensive literature, mostly connected with their religion. It is, however, generally puerile, highly extravagant, and unsuiled to the ideas? of the western nations. The Bramins, who alone ought to be well informed, are now almost wholly illiterate. The only tincture of learning and thought appears to exist among some of the higher inhabitants of the great cities, who have derived it chiefly from intercourse with the British residents, and particularly with the missionaries. The English language is spreading in India, and a taste for European literature, newspapers, and periodicals, is beginning to take place among those whose situatiori throws them into habits of intimacy with foreigners : a brighter era has also commenced in the political condition of the natives ; they have, for several years, been admissible to civil offices and to act as civil and criminal judges, and are also summoned to sit in the native juries, and to try in some places criminal, in others both civil and criminal ques- 39* ;'•• ^"^ • T» 1 'if ih it| ,1 1 ^ ii! :*■' !:, t :ii; i ;> ; ■,! 402 ASIA. i4i' I!? hM tions. By the Act of Parliament of 1833, for the better govern- ment of British India, it is further provided, that no native shall, by reason of his religion, place of birth, descent, or colour, be disabled from holding any office or employment under the Company. The Sanscrit, the original language of Hindoostan, is so ancient that it has not been in use Tor hundreds of years. In it the sacred books of the Hindoos are written ; and it is studied by the Bramins, as Greek and Latin are with us. The oldest languages derived from the Sanscrit are the Pacrit, the Bali, and the Zend : these are the sacred languages of different sects. The modern languages of this country have nine-tenths of their words in common ; but, except the Hindoostanee, which is generally spoken, and the Gujeratee, the usual language of the markets, they are all local. The Hindoos aspire to an antiquity far beyond the first glim- merings of the most n;mute history. Their early annals are so entirely fabulous, that it is impossible to separate the fiction from the truth ; and their own opinion of the remoteness of their origin is altogether unworthy of credit. India was invaded at various periods anterior to the Christian era by Darius, Alexander, Se- leucus, and Anliochus : these inroads were, however, merely par- tial, not producing any lasting effect. For more than 1000 years after the time of our Saviour, no event worthy of credit has been recorded in history respecting this interesting country. In the beginning of the 11th century, 5lahmoud of Ghiznee established his power over, and introduced the Mahomedan faith into Hindoostan. His dynasty was subverted by the Ghoriaii, which was succeeded by the Patan race of monarchs, and the lat- ter was in its turn prostrated by the mighty conqueror Tamerlane. In 1525, Baber, his grandson, founded the Mogul Empire, which, under Akbar and Aurengzcbe, attained a power and grandeur scarcely ever equalled. This splendid monarchy, at the height of its glory, numbered not less than 80,000,000 subjects, and pro- duced a revenue of 160,000,000 dollars annually. Enfeebled at length by the decay of its original vigour, the power of the Mogul Empire was shaken by the Mahrattas, and about 100 years ago almost subverted by Nadir Shah. It continued in a f,:tering condition until the commencement of the present century, when the limited fragments of the mighty fabric were absorbed into the more mighty domains of the present rulers of India ; and the last of the Moguls, the representative of the proudest sovereigns of the East, has become like the Zamorin, the Peishwa, and other Indian princes, mere pensioners on the bounty of their conquerors. There have been at all times occasional famines in Hindoostan, but within the last 20 or 30 years several have occurred of the most horrible description. Those of 1837 and 1838, in upper Ben- better govern- lative shall, by lur, be disabled )mpany. n, is so ancient In it the sacred ty the Bramins, es derived from ; these are the inguages of this on ; but, except 1 the Gujeratee, jal. 1 the first glim- y annals are so the fiction from 3s of their origin ?aded at various I, Alexander, Se- jver, merely par- than 1000 years f credit has been intry. noud of Ghiznee. Vlahomedan faith by the Ghorian, rchs, and the lat- ueror Tamerlane, il Empire, which, er and grandeur hy, at the height subjects, and pro- y- vigour, the power as, and about 100 t continued in u e present century, ric were absorbed ers of India ; and roudest sovereigns •eishwa, and other f their conquerors. ,(,s in Hindoostan, occurred of the 838, in upper Ben- INDIA. 463 gal, and of 1839, in Bombay and Madras, are supposed to have swept off almost 1,000,000 jieople. So extensive were the ravages of death, that the air, for miles around several of the large cities, was tainted with the putrifying carcases of human beings and cattle, and the rivers Ganges and Jumna were choked up and poisoned by tiie dead bodies thrown into their channels. These appalling dispensations have been generally occasioned by extensive droughts and inundations, but they have been always aggravated by the unwise and impolitic legislation of wicked rulers. The land tax system of Hindoostan, which has existed from the earliest ages, and retained through all successive periods to the present time, is highly onerous and despotic ; it has prevented the improvement of husbandry, and restricted the culture of the soil to less than one-half the quantity susceptible of tillage. The evils produced by the above system, the decrease of the cotton and other branches of manufactures, together with the con- stant remission of the available wealth of India to Great Britain, have rendered this country much less opulent and flourishing than in former times ; and the princely fortunes, once so easily ac- quired by Europeans, are now comparatively rare. Hindoostan comprises a number of states, various in dimensions, government, and character. They comprise British India, the native states of Lahore, Nepaul, Bootan, Scindiah, and Sinde, with the petty kingdom of the Maldives, and the small colonial possessions of Portugal, France, and Denmark. BRITISH INDIA. The East I. '■:. Company's territory, or British India, compre- hends ni>arly the whole of Hindoostan, forming an empire nine times more extensive, and five times more populous, than Great Britain and Ireland. This vast domain has been almost all acquired within less than 100 years, by conques^ The states comprising British India are of three distinct classes: 1st. Those imme(iiately under the control of the Company, styled Presidencies, and governed by its own officers. 2d. The tributary or dependent states. These arc mere vassals : their towns and fortresses are garrisoned by British troops, and the reaily effective government is vested in persons styled Residents, appointed by the Company, and stationed at the courts of the subject princes. 3d. The allied, or protected states. These, though nominally inde- pendent, are so far under the control of the Company, thni no movement of any importance can be made without its approbation and concurrence. Ml n >iif II € ; st«.ii^ m 164 B •■<.'' m i: J ti ASIA. ESTIMATE OF THE EXTENT AND POPULATION OF BRITISH INDIA, The Presidencies. Square Miles. , Puptilatinn. Presidency of Bengal . . Presidency of Mudratt . Presidency of Bombay . 220,000 142,000 60,000 «7,000.(IOO 12,000,000 «,00(l,000 422,000 85,000,000 Vassal States. The Nizam The Nabob of Oude Tlic Rajah of Nagpore . The Rajah of Mysore . . The Rajah of Satara . . . The Rajah of Indore . . . Travancoro and Cochin. 96,000 20,000 70,000 27,000 14,000 15,000 8,000 250,000 Allied, or Protected States. The kingdom of Baroda Rajpootana, comprising Marwar, Mewar, i Jyepore, Bickanere, Jessi'lmere, &.c . . . i 18,000 276,000 10,000,000 3,000,000 3,000,000 3.000,000 1,500,000 1,500,000 1,000,000 23,000,000 2,000,000 13,000,000 294,000 15,000,000 To this list must be added the island of Ceylon, which is a royal colony, and contains, on 25,000 square miles, nearly 1,000,000 inhabitants; making the grand total of British India, above 1,000,000 square miles, with a population of 124,000,000 souls. The government of British India is vested in the Court of Direc- tors of the East India Company, who reside in London. This body is under the authority of a Board of Commissioners, consisting of several of the chief ministers of the Crown, and commonly called the Board of Control. The President of Bengal is styled the Go- vernor-General of India. He is emjwwered in council to legislate for that countrv, under certain limitations, and subject to the revi- sion ol" the Board of Control and the Court of Directorss. The council consists of four members, besides the governor, appointed by the directors, with the royal sanction. The other presidents in council possess the same authority, within the'r respective governments, but subject, ui all niatler> of general policy, to the Governor-General, who has the power of ITISll INDIA. popiilntioKi. 12,000,000 6,00t),000 Is^oocooo 10,000,000 3,000,000 3,000,000 3,000,000 1,500,000 LSOO.OOO 1,000,000 ISjoo.ooo . 2,000,000 13,000,000 "Ts^ooo.ooo on, which is a miles, nearly of British India, of 124,000,000 e Court of Direc- _)don. This body ers, consisting of commonly caUed is styled the Go- ouncil to legislate >b|ect to the revi- Directors. The ivernor, appointed same aathority, , in all m«tter> of has the powtMT ol INDIA. 4(i5 declaring war, making |)oace, and concluding treaties ; and, as captain-general, niiiy head the military operations in any part of the country. British India is held in subjection by an nrmy, composed for the jnost part of Hindoos, officered and disciplined by Europeans. Their number amounts to alwut 200,000 men. The purely British troops, maintained by the company, do not exceed 8000 ; but a large body of the royal forces is always employed in India: these, at present, are about 20,000 in nuni!>or. Tho territorial power of Gre«r Britain, in Hindoostan, was founded, originally, on the ruins of that f the Portuguese, Dutch, and French. In the year 1600, the Kast India Company was formed by Que-jn Elizabeth. Its members were, at the outset, mere traders ; in time, however, they built factories, and erected fortresses in various parts of India, but acquired no actual posses- sions of any extent, until the successes of Lord Clive, in the war of 1750, gave them a decided preponderance over the power of their European and native rivals. Subsequently the subversion of the Mogul empire, the kingdom of Mysore, and that of the Zamorin, with the prostration of the Mahratta confederacy, has enabled the company to form the wiiolo of its ac(,i!isitions into a mighty empire, the greatest in population, with one exception, in the world. BENGAL. The Presidency of Bengal comprises a number of fertile pro- ductive provinces, lying chiefly on both sides of the Ganges river, and extending into the interior, upwards of a thousand miles from the sea-coast; it also stretches along the northern and north- western shores of the Bay of Bengal, for a distance of more than 450 miles. Bengal is the largest and most valuable division of British India ; it forms within itself a rich empire, as extensive as that of Austria, but with more than double the number of inhabitants. It com- prises the provinces of Bengal, Bahar, Allahobad, Oude, Agra, Delhi, Gurwal, Adjimere, and Orissa. Calcutta, the capital of British India, and the residence of the Governor-General, is situated on the Hoogiy branch of the Ganges, 100 miles from the sea ; it contains 500,000 inhabitants, and com- prises, projierly, two divisions, the English and Black towns ; the former, called Chouringee, is inhabited by the European popula- tion, and is a city of palaces, displaying all the splendour and magnificence of Grecian architecture. The Black town, inhabited by the Hindoos, comprises much the greater part ol* the city, and consists of miserable cottages of ■ '■:■ m ;!■■■« mi I': W:. . ■ 166 ASIA. ^i'. mud and bamboo. Many of the public buildings of Calcutta lire important and f,paciouri. The government house is a vrry splen- did and costly structure; and Fort Willinm, the strongc-,t military work in British India, is so extensive, as to require, in case of a fi'tcfn), 10,000 or ir<,000 men to garrison it. Henevolenf institutions arc numerous in Calcutta; and there are a number of schools for the ', ruction of the natives in Christian loarnin!^; also 11 Protestant hurches, 3 Catholic, 1 Armenian, and 1 (ireek, bes-idea variou; chapels lor the Hind(K)9. Several ncwtii)ap<^>rs, conducted by natives, are published in the lan<;ungr, of the country, as well as various gazettes, journals, and other pe- riodicals for English readers. Herampore, on the Hoogly river, 12 miles above Calcutta, is a town of 12,000 inhabitants, lx;Ionging to Denmark ; it is interest- ing as the seat of the Haptist missionaries, who have, for more than 30 years, distinguished themselves by such learned and ex- tensive labours in the n!i>sionary cause. They have a printing- ofli(!P hero, at which the scriptures have been printed in a number of Eastern languai^f.-s, and a coll(>ge for the education of native preachers is also established. Dacca was the capital of Itengal in the reign of .Tehangire, and is still a very large city. It contains 150,000 inhabitants, but dis- plays no particular splendour, though it is the seat of a great trade. It stands on the Boor (iunga, or old Ganges, 100 miles from the sea, and 150 north-east from Calcutta. Moorshedabad, on the same river as Calcutta, is famous for its silk manufactures: it contains 130,000 inhabitants. Patna is a place of great antiquity, supposed to bt: the Palilwthra of the an- cient geographers ; its present pros|)erity depends chiefly upon the fertility and high cultivation of the district in which it is situated. Benares, the Athens of the Hindoos, stands on the left bank of the river Ganges, about 900 miles from the Gulf of Ifcngal. It may be said to form the grand depository of the religion and learning of this vast country. Its sacred character, which is sup- posed to insure the salvation of all who die within its precincts, renders Benares a scene of crowded resort. Its population of 200,000 is augmented, at solemn seasons, by pilgrims, to double that amount. The city contains a great numl)er of temples and mosques ; its houses are more lofty, and better built, than those of Indian cities generally. Allahabad, at the junction of the Ganges and Jumna rivera, is regarded as particularly holy, and is annually visited by thousands of pilgrims, who endeavour to secure their happiness in the next v.'orld, by seeking death in their hallowed stream The most ap- j)roved mode has been for the devotee to cut off his own head, and Calcutta are (I vory splen- igc^i military !, in case ol' u and there are js in Christian , 1 Armoninn, i()09. Several , tho Uins^ungc ,, and other pe- e Calcutta, is a : ; it is interest- have, for more learned and ex- have a printing- tod in a number cation of native ,f Jehangire, and iaV)itants, hut dis- of a groat trade. lO miles from the is famous for its ints. Patna is a JMhra of the an- i chiefly upon the ,,ich it is situated. 1^ the left bank of ilf of Bengal. U the religion and rter, wliich is sup- fthin its precincts. Mis population ot ilgrims, to double ler of temples and \r built, thari those Id Jumna rivere, is Isited by thousands Tpiness in the next [tn. The most ap- [ his own head, and INDIA. 4tt7 allovkr it to drop into the water, an otPering to the deity oi" tho river. This city '\» much reduced, its inhabitants amounting only to 20,000 ; its citadel is considered one of the strongest military works in Uritish India, and is garrisoned by the Company's troops. Agra, on tho Jumna, once a splendid capital, is now almost all in ruins, hut still contains 60.000 inhabitants. Tho mausoleum of Tajc Mahal, the favourite Sultana of Shah Jchan, is the fmest tomb ill the world, with precious ston is but little inl'f ' Delhi, on ti, was, in early tiuj the seventt-entli < minion, and such During the reign is composed of white marble, and inlaid he rnuusolbum of Akbar, six miles distant, lunr.na, now mouldering in decay, luioo metro[)olis. In the middle of xicome the chief seat of Mogul do- I contii. icd until the downlhl of that empire. of Aurcngzebe, it was computed to contain and plunder to the The inhabited part it is adorned with The remains of o 2,000,000 inhabitants, and was, no doubt, the richest city in tho East. In 1739, Delhi was plundered by Nadir Shah, when 100,000 of the inhabitants wei-e massacred, amount of 300 million dollars was collected, of Delhi still forms rather a handsome city many iM^autiful mosques and other buildings, number of splendid palaces, once tho habitalujns of the most po- tent monarchs of India, are yet to be seen. Juggernaut, a celebrated phce of Hindoo worship, is situated on the sea-shore, about 300 milts south-west from Calcutta. It is renowned throughout all India; and a million of devotees are sup- posed to visit it annually. The [•/igoda, or temple, is a pyramidal building, 200 feet high; at great festivals, the idol, .Juggernaut, is dragged about, on an immense car, under the wheels of which the fanatic devotees throw themselves, and are crushed to death, hav- ing earned, according to Hindoo belief, a sure passport to happi- ness in the next world. MADRAS. The Presidency of Madras stretches along the east, or Coro- mandel coast of FIind(X)stan, 1000 miles north from Capo Comorin, and on the west, or Malabar coast, an extent o. 500 miles north- ward from the same point. It includes, exccj/iiu^ v.ivcore and Travancore, the whole country lying south of the Krishna river, besides a territory extending along the coast of the Bay of Bengal, north-eastward from the Krishna, almost 400 miles ui length. -Madras comprehends the provinces of the Carnatic, Coimbetore, Mysore, Malabar, Canara, Balaghaut, and the northern Circars, Madras, the capital, is a large, populous, and well-built city It presents a singular mixture of pagodas, minarets, masques, and i IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) Ml I.I 1.25 1^ 1^ Hi 2.5 2.2 ■ 40 2.0 'Am Hiotographic Sciences (Jorporation 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WCBSTH.N.Y. U5S0 (716) •73-4503 \ 4 "^ \ \ ' '«' ^7^. > ^. %% «> \ Ill 408 ASIA. fir ■' ■, i /I ■ n: {5- fcS : mm-' r}Jf ;,;«•■.. ; i tef f ' - ;! ' te;f :■;■ ^r ■1 rij:: f:V' gardens, and consists of two distinct quarters, the White and the Black town. It has no harbour, but a mere open roadstead ; yet it has a considerable commerce. On the beach breaks so strong and continual a surf, that only a peculiar species of large light boats can, by the dexterous management of the natives, be rowed across it. For the conveyance, also, of letters and messages, they employ what is called a catamaran^ consisting merely of two planks fastened together, with which they encounter the rougiiest seas. The city has a handsome appearance from the sea, and many of its streets are spacious. The population is estimated at from 300,000 to 420,000. Masulipatam, situ ■ ■ *' [I . ■ 470 ^■U, -J ^ ASIA. TRIBUTARY, OR VASSAL STATES. Hydrabad. — The kingdom of Hydrabad is governed by the Nizam, a prince who was formerly a Viceroy of the Mogul em- pire. His territories are situated in the interior of the Deccan, between the Godavery and Krishna rivers, and are bounded on the north by Nagpore, or Berar, east and south by Madras, and west by Bombay. The whole region is a table-land of some ele- vation, upwards of 400 miles in length, and containing some fer- tile districts along the Godavery. It is without manufactures of any consequence, and is one of the worst governed states in Hin- doostan. Hydrabpd, the capital, is not a fine city ; yet it contains some handsome mosques, and the Nizam maintains, on a small scale, a semblance of Mogul pomp : population 120,000. Golconda, six miles from Hydrabad, is a celebrated mart for the diamonds found in the adjacent districts, which are the finest in the world. Bejapoor is noted for its immense fort, which is eight miles in circumference. Arungabad was once a celebrated capital ; though much decayed, it still contains 60,000 inhabitants. Ellora, in the neighbourhood, is famous for its magnificent cave-temples, of enor- mous size and exquisite finish. OuDE. — The kingdom of Oude is situated on the north side of the Ganges, being about 600 miles from the Bay of Bengal. It is inclosed on the east, west, and south by Bengal, and on the north by the kingdom of Nepaul : the inhabitants are about one- third Mahomedans, and the rest Hindoos. Lucknow, the capital, is situated on the Goomty, a branch of the Ganges ; it contains severe osques and palaces with gilded domes, which give it an im, g appearance, at a distance. While the Nabobs of Oude were in full power, this city was one of tiie most splendid in India : population 300,000. Oude, the earlier capital, is in ruins. Nagpore, or Berar. — The kingdom of the Eastern Mahrat- tas is situated in the interior of the Deccan, on the head-waters of the Godavery and Mahanuddy rivers, and very nearly central be- tween the northern and southern, and eastern and western bound- aries of Hindoostan. Parts of this state comprise some fertile and well-cultivated districts : others are among the least valuable in Central India. Nagpore, the capital, is a town of modern date ; it is neatly built, and situated on a tributary of the Godavery river. Gawhil- gur, the strongest military work in this state, is erected on a high, verned by the he Mogul em- >f the Deccan, re bounded on y Madras, and id of some ele- ining some fer- :ianufactures of d states in Hin- t contains some n a small scale, Golconda, six diamonds found e world, is eight miles in I capital ; though J. EUora, in the ■temples, of enor- [the north side of ly of Bengal. It ngal, and on the 'are about one- mty, a branch of laces with gilded ', at a distance, this city was one 000. Oude, the Eastern Mahrat- he head- waters of nearly central he- ld western bound- iprise some fertile the least valuable y date; it is neatly river. Gawhil- erected on a high, INDIA. 471 rocky hill ; it consists of an outer and inner fortress : previous to its capture by the Company's troops, it was deemed impregnable. Mysore, the dominion of the celebrated Hyder Ali, and his son, Tippoo Saib, was a powerful independent kingdom at the close of the last century, but was conquered by the Company in the year 1799, and placed under the government of a prince, le- gally descended from the ancient dynasty. This state is situated in the southern part of the Deccan, and is encompassed on every side by the territories of the Madras Presidency. The country forms a high, fertile table-land, elevated, generally, about 3000 feet above the level of the ocean, and is watered by the head streams of the Krishna and Cavery rivers. Mysore, the capital, long a decayed town, has been rebuilt by the present rajah, and has a population of 60,000. Seringapa- tam, the renowned capital of Tippoo Saib, was formerly a strongly fortified and important place, but is now in a state of decline ; and the inhabitants, once 150,000 in number, are reduced to 10,000. Satara, the kingdom of the Western Mahrattas, is situated on the west side of the Deccan : it comprises an elevated table-land, stretching along the eastern base of the Ghaut mountains, and watered by the upper branches of the Krishna river. This state is encompassed on every side by the territories of the Bombay Presidency. It extends about 100 miles in length, and from 60 to 120 in breadth. Satara, a strong hill-fort, is the capital. Indore. — ^The kingdom of Indore, or the domain of Holkar, a Mahratta chief, is situated in the western part of Hindoostan, and on both sides of the Nerbuddah river, at a distance of from 100 to 200 miles eastward from the Gulf of Cambay. It forms a compact territory of about 160 miles in length and 100 in breadth. It is bounded on the north and east by the doi minions of Scindiah, and on the west and south by those of the Bombay Presidency. The Vindhaya mountains intersect this state, on the north of the Nerbuddah river, from east to west. Indore the capital, is a modern-built town of but little importance. Travancore and Cochin form a territory, occupying the most south-western part of the Deccan. It stretches northward from Cape Comorln along the Malabar coast for 250 miles, and from the Ghauts to the sea-shore, from 50 to 75 miles. The first named is the largest and most southern division : it is one of the most fertile districts of India, and is celebrated for its pepper, gin- ger,, nutmegs, and cinnamon. The city of Travancore was the ancient capital ; but Trivanda- patam is now the residence of the rajah. mm 11 I V, ! ■ V ' mm ■i I '. 1- ?. ■ mm, !.''M >:' 472 ASIA. Cochin is a small district lying northward of Travancore ; it is noted for the abundance of its teak timber. The inhabitants, be- sides Hindoos, comprise Jews, both black and white, and Chris- tians ; the latter are the descendants of converts, made, it is sup- posed, by St. Thomas. Their existence was unknown to Euro- peans until the time when Vasco de Gama arrived on the Malabar coast. Part of these people are Catholics, and part are similar in their doctrines and worship, to the Protestants of Europe and America. The former were converted by the Portuguese mis- sionaries. ALLIED, OR PROTECTED STATES. Baroda. — The kingdom of the Gwickwar, or of Baroda, occu- pies the chief part of Gujerat, situated between the Gulfs of Cam- bay and Cutch : it extends inland near 300 miles, and consists of several detached districts, intermingled with the territories of Bom- bay, Scindiah, Holkar, and the Rajpoot principalities. The people of the coast have been long noted for their acts of piracy : they comprise several peculiar races, as Bheels, Coolies, Grassias, Jains, &c. ; also, a number of Parsees, or fire-worshippers. Baroda, the capital, is a flourishing city, containing 100,000 in- habitants. Cambay , at the head of the gulf of the same name, is much less important than formerly ; but still carries on some com- merce. • Rajfootana is, next to Sinde, the most western division of Hindoostnn. Some of its districts are intermingled with the Great Sandy Desert that extends eastward of the Indus, and are barren, and thinly inhabited ; while the eastern divisions, watered by the Chumbull, theLonee, the Myhie, and other streams, are fertile and populous. The chief part of the people are Rajpoots, who difler essentially from the other Indian nations both in figure and character, being tall, athletic, and warlike in their habits : though somewhat turbu- lent and violent, they possess sentiments of honour and generosity unknown to the other Hindoos ; they treat their women with more respect than Asiatics generally, and the higher classes even regard them, it is saiii, with something of that romantic gallantry which prevailed in Europe during the middle ages. The Rajpoots are guilty of a dreadful enormity, many of the female children, of the higher classes, being murdered by their parents at the moment of birth ; a practice said to be prompted by the difficulty of procuring marriages for their daughters, suitable to the supposed dignity of their families. INDIA. 473 ancore; it is abitants, be- p, and Chris- de, it is^^sup- )wn to Euro- \ the Malabar are similar in Europe and rtuguese mis- Baroda, occu- GulfsofCam- and consists of fitoriesofBom- js. The people ,f piracy : they Grassias, Jains, rs. ing 100,000 in- 3 same name, is s on some com- tern division of . with the Great and are barren, watered by the 1, are fertile and differ essentially 1 character, being jomewhat turbu- \t and generosity romen with more isses even regard gallantry which |ity, many of the ardered by their , be prompted by Thters, suitable to This region is divided into a number of petty states, under the control of chiefs, or rajahs, independent of each other, but all in alliance with the East India Company. The principal Rajpoot states are those of Marwar, Mewar, Jyepore, Bickanere, and Jcs- seimere. Adjimere, with a small surrounding territory, is imme- diately subject to the Company. The chief towns in Rajpootana are Joudpore, the capital of Marwar ; Oodipore, the capital of Mewar; with Bickanere, Jyepore, and Adjimere, each the capital of the states of the same name. The palace of Oodipore, on the borders of a beautiful lake, is pecu- liarly splendid ; and that of Jugmendar, on an island in another lake, presents an almost magic scene. CcTCH, the most southern Rajpoot state, is situated to the north- ward of the gulf of that name. The people are called Jharejahs : they are noted pirates, and carry the crime of infanticide to a greater extent than any other race. The British government, in a late treaty with the Row and the principal chiefs, stipulated that the practice should be discontinued. Bhooj and Mandavie are the chief towns. There are, also, a number of smaller states, in various parts of Hindoostan, tributary to the Company. Some of the principal are Rewah, Bhopal, and Boondee, lying on the southern branches of the Ganges and Jumna; Sikim, situated between Nepaul and Bootan ; Kurnaul, on the south bank of the Krishna; Kolapore, on the head waters of the same stream ; and various others, some of which comprise a very small amount of territory. The whole of these contain, perhaps, a population of 2,500,000. INDEPENDENT STATES. LAHORE. The most important independent state iu Hindoostan is the kingdom of Lahore, or the confederation of the Seiks. This re- markable people began their career as a religious sect, adopting a sort of combination of the Hindoo and Mahomedan creeds. Their territories lie between the Indus and the Sut 3ge rivers, and the Himmaleh mountains, and comprise Lahore, Cashmere, and Moul- tan, with a small district situated between the Sutlege and the Jumna, and north of Delhi. The whole comprises an area of 70,000 Square miles, and 4,000,000 inhabitants. The government of Lahore forms a species of theocracy, under a body of chiefs, uniting the different characters of priests, war- riors, and statesmen. Disunion for a time prevailed among them, 40* ';■ my P. m 'MM ■M WW' mm A .'■ fpn r! I' ■.' > ri 474 ASIA. but they were at length united under the almost absolute sway of the late Runjeet Sing. This able and politic prince ruled with vigour and justice ; and led his kingdom in a prosperous and flourishing condition. He maintained a powerful army, organized in the European manner, and disciplined by French oflicers. This monarch was supposed to have accumulated a large treasure; and accordingly, at his decease, in 1839, it was found to amount to the vast sum of 100 millions of dollars ; and a diamond that belonged to him, said to be the largest in the world, was valued at 2^ millions. Lahore, the capital, is an important city, and situated in the midst of a fertile and well-cultivated country : population, 80,000. Umritsir is the holy city of the Seiks, and the seat of their great national council. It contains the celebrated well of immortality, which, the Hindoos believe, has power to wash away all sin. In the sacred basin is a temple served by 500 priests. The |)opula- tion is estimated at about 100,000. The city of Cashmere, the largest in the Seik dominions, con- tains 100,000 inhabitants : it stands on the Jylum, in the most northern part of Hindoos^an, and is noted for its manufactures of the finest shawls in the world. The beauty of its situation has also been widely celebrated ; particularly its lake, studded with numberless islands, green with gardens and groves, and having its banks environed with villas and ornamental grounds. NEPAUL. The territories of this state stretch along the base of the Him- maleh mountains, from south-cast to north-west, for a distance of more than 500 miles in length, and about 100 in breadth. Area, 50,000 square miles : population, 3,000,000. The greater part of the country is elevated 4000 or 5000 feet above the level of the sea. It is well-watered and fertile, and enjoys the climate of the south of Europe. The population is composed of two races ; the Newars, who form the bulk of the nation, and the Bramins, who are the rulers. The whole region is subjected to the military government of the rajahs of Gorkwha, originally masters only of a small territory of that name, on the western frontier of Nepaul. Katmandoo, the capital, was said to contain, a few years ago, 20,000 houses : of these, one-half were destroyed by an earthquake, in the spring of 1834. BOOTAN. This country, situated south-eastward of Nepaul, is similar in aspect to the latter ; it is about 250 miles long and about 100 wide. INDIA. 476 lute sway of justice; and edition. He )ean manner, was supposed ingly, at his : sum of 100 ) him, said to s. ituated in the ation, 80,000. of their great f immortality, ly all sin. In The jwpula- ominions, con- Tj, in the most lanufactures of s situation has >, studded with es, and having lunds. ise of the Him- for a distance jreadth. Area, 5 greater part of the level of the le climate of the swars, who form the rulers. The >ut of the rajahs territory of that few years ago, y an earthquake. lul, is similar in about 100 wide. The natives, called Bootees, arc entirely unlike the people of Hin- doostan, and appear to be of the Mongol race : they have none of the Hindoo scruples, relative to animal food and spiritous liquors. The religion is that of the Lama of Thibet ; and Bootan is, to- gether with that country, under the protection of China. Tassisudon, the capital, is a city of some extent, and is the re- sidence of a prince called the Deb Rajah; its chief manufactures are brazen images, and paper made of bark. DOMINIONS OF SCINDIAH. SoiNDiAH is the only Mahratta chief that possesses any share of independence ; his domains are situated in the interior of Hindoos- tan, and intirely encompassed by Bengal, the Rajpoot states, and those of Baroda, Indore, and Bombay. They form an irregular- shaped territory, extending about 450 miles south-westward from the Jumna river towards the Gulf of Cambay. The Chumbull, the Scinde, the Betwah, and other branches of the Jumna, are the principal rivers. Area, 40,000 square miles: population, 4,000,000. Gwalior the capital, contains 80,000 inhabitants. It is a place of great natural strength ; is strongly fortified, and was once sup- posed to be impregnable : the citadel is situated on a rock, 340 feet high. Oojein is celebrated among the Hindoos for its schools and its observatory : it was the place adopted by the Hindoo geo- graphers for their first meridian: population, 100,000. SINDE. The Principality of Sinde occupies the country on both sides of the lower part of the Indus ; it is, however, situated chiefly on the eastern bank of the river, and extends, upwards from the sea, nearly 400 miles : it contains an area of 40,000 square miles, and 1,000,000 inhabitants. This state was once highly flourishing and f rtile, but the des- potic government of its Ameers, or chiefs, has rendered it much less important than formerly. Sinde has hitherto ranked as in- dependent ; but it was conquered by a British army in the early part of 1839, and its rulers were obliged to purchase a peace by the payment of a considerable sum of money. Hyderabad, the capital, is a fortified town, situated on a rock, about two miles from the Indus, and on a branch of that stream, which here forms an island : population, 15,000. Tatta was for- merly a large commercial city, and various European factories were established here : though nearly all in ruins, it has a popula- tion of 20,000 inhabitants. Kurachie, near the mouth of one of the estuaries of the Indus, is the chief sea-port of Sinde. ■ J ri m 470 A8IA, EUROPEAN COLONIES. Besides the vast regions in Hindoostan, under the sway of Grent Britain, the monarchs of Portugal, France, and Denmark, possess a few small settlements, chiefly the scanty remains of much larger territoiies. The Portuoucsb, whose settlements were formerly so nu> merous on the coasts and in the islands of India, have preserved the city of Goa, with n 8mall adjacent territory ; also, Damaan, situated southward of Surat, and Diu, in Gujerat, a place import* ant for the construction of vessels ; both these towns have petty territories attached to them. Altogether the Portuguese posses- sions comprise an area of about 1200 square miles, and 420,000 inhabitants. The Fkench Settlements comprehend the government of Pondicherry, with the towns of Pondicherry and Karical, on the coast of Coromandel, and a few other places, among which, Chan- dernagor in Bengal, and Mah6 on the coast of Malabar, are the most important. The area of the whole docs not exceed 450 square miles, with a population of 160,000 individuals. The Danish Colonies consist of the town of Tranquebar, and its territory, on the coast of Coromandel, a place remarkable for the influence which the missionary establishment of the Pro- testant creed, which was erected here more early than in other places, exercised in the neighbourhood. The Danes have also a small settlement at Serampore, on the Ganges. The population of the whole is about 60,000. Cb¥Lon, lying to the south of tiindoostan, is a large and beau- tiful island, near 300 miles in length, and containing 25,000 square miles. It is traversed in the interior by a range of mountains, one of which, Adam's Peak, is 6152 feet in height. Here the Cinga- lese and Hindoos worship the colossal footsteps of Adam, who, as they believe, was created on this mountain, and, according to the Buddhists, is Buddha himself. This island produces cinnamon, for which it is famous ; the other products are rice, cotton, ginger, coffee, pepper, &c. A great va- riety of precious stones are found here; the diamond, ruby, ame- thyst, &c. ; likewise, quicksilver, lead, iron, and tin. A pearl fishery is carried on along the western coast, whioh was formerly important, but is now declining. The inhabitants are estimated at about 1,000,000 in number, and comprise, Ist. The Cingalese, who are similar to the Hindoos. 2d. The Beddahs, rude savages, who inhabit the interior tracts , 3d. The Dutch and Portuguese, descendants of the former mas- INDIA. 477 tera or the island ; and 4th. The English residents and military Many churches and schools have been established by both English and American missionaries, at which numbers of the natives at- tend, and are gradually laying aside their gross errors and super- stitions, and acquiring a knowledge of the benign doctrines of Christianity. Ceylon is a colony, independent of the East India Company, being under the immediate control of the crown. Columbo, on the west coast of the island, is the seat of govern- ment, and of olmost all the foreign trade : population, 50,00U. Trincomalee, Point de Galle, Jafnapatam, and Condatchy, are each places of some note. Kandy, the interior capital, is only a laruc, straggling village, surrounded by wooded hills, that echo contin- ually with the cries of wild animals. Coralline Islands. — West and south-west from the southern part of India, the Coralline Islands extend, in a direction nearly north and south, a distance of about 1000 miles in length : they include the Laccadive and Maldive groups ; the former about 200 miles west from the Malabar coast, and the latter 300 to 350 south- west from Cape Comorin. The Laccadives, said to be 32 in number, are all small, and covered with trees. The inhabitants are mostly Mahomedans, called Moplays : they trade to the nearest coast of India, and also to Muscat, in large boats. These islands are under the control of the Biby of Cananore, a female sovereign, subject to the East India Company. - The Maldives, supposed to be 1000 in number, are, for the most part, uninhabited. The natives appear to be a mixture of Arabs and Hindoos : they supply vessels with cocoa-nuts, oil, and honey, dried fish, tortoise-shell, and cowries. The islands are di- vided into 17 attoUons, or provinces, each governed by a chief: the whole are under the control of a king, who rules despotically. They have four sea-ports, in which their few articles of commerce are collected. CHIN INDIA. Chin India, or Further India, comprises that extensive region, situated between Hindoostan and China, and sometimes called Indo China, and also India beyond the Ganges : it comprises seve- ral extensive and important kingdoms. The whole region is bounded on the west by Hindoostan, the Bay of Bengal, and the straits of Malacca, north by Thibet and east by the China Sea. It extends from north to south 1700, and i':f M mm-^^^ 476 AHIA. from cast to went about 1000 miles, and contains on area of upwards of 900,000 square miles, with a population of about 30,000,000. The surface of this great territory is diversified by a series of mountain ranges, running from north to south, between each of which intervenes a broad vallev, in general very fertile, and wa- tered by a large river, descending from the mountains of China and Thibet. The rivers are mostly of great size and importance. The Irawaddy may be ascended many hundred miles by largo boats. The Salwen is, also, a considerable stream, though but little known. The Mecon is navigable twenty days* sail from the ocenn. The Meinani, which waters Siam, enters the gulf of that name by three channels, the most easterly of which admits ves* sels of considerable magnitude. Chin Intliu yields afl the grand staples of tropical produce. The princi[>al culture consists of rice, sugar, pepper, cotton, to- bacco, and tea ; the latter is raised to some extent in the upper provinces of Birmah, where it is used as a pickle, and also in the same manner as with us; but it is put up in small round -balls. Stick-lac, wox, ivory, and gamboge, are among the chief articles of export; also, earth-oil, areca-nut, and betel-leaf; there is some cinnamon obtained in Cambodia ; and in Cochin China a small quantity of a very superior kind is produced, which is reserved for the use of the sovereign and royal family only ; and persons of inferior rank, found with any of the article in their possession, are liable to be punished with death. Domestic animals are but little employed in cultivation; and though among the Birmans and Siamese, the Brahminical princi- ple, which forbids their being used as food, prevails ; yet, in no part of the world, probably, is the destruction of life, either of man or beast, less regarded. Animals are tamed chiefly for conveyance or pomp ; ond for these purposes, the elephant, which here attains his greatest bulk and perfection, is mostly employed. White elephants, though sometimes met with, are rare. In Bir- mah and Siam these animals are treated with great distinction, and are worshipped by the people. They are served with all the pomp of royalty, have numerous attendants, and are oAen adorned with valuable chains and other ornaments of gold ; their tusks are frequently gilded. Manufactures exist only on a limited scale, and in a rude form ; the raw materials which the country affords, being worked up mostly by the family itself for domestic use. A vast number of images of Gaudama are fashioned out of a fine species of marble found in the country, and are generally gilded. The commerce is principally with China, and consists in the exchange of their raw produce, rice, cotton, timber, &c. for some k^i INDIA. 479 I on area of ion of about >y a series of ween each of ■tile, and wu* linn of China d importance, liles by largo 1, though but sail from the gulf of that h admits ves* pical produce. )er, cotton, to- tt in the upper and also in the II round balls. ) chief articles ; there is some China o small 1 is reserved for ind persons of possession, are ultivation; and minical princi- lils ; yet, in no life, either of »ed chiefly for ephant, which )stly employed. rare. In Bir- ■eat distinction, ved with nil tho e often adorned their tusks are in a rude form ; sing worked up vast number of )ecie8 of marble consists in the sr, &c. for some ■pecien of the Hae manufactures of that great empire. Cotton and other products of Birmah, are carried up the Irawuddy to a ureat market in tho frontier province of YunnwO. Calcutta and Madras take, of teak timber, to the amount of abotit 500,000 dollars, in return for which, Britibii manufactures are received. The trade of Siam and Cochin China is chiefly carried on by Chinese junks coming to the port of Bankok, in the former coun« try, and those of Turon, Hue, and Saigon, in the latter. There is, also, some trade with the British settlement at Singapore. The inhabitants of Farther India are short, robust, and active in person. The hair is coarse, black, and abundant; but tho beard is scanty. The Birmans appear to be a lively and intelli- gent people, possessing, in this respect, a decided superiority over the Hindoos. The Siamese are said to be sluggish and indolent, destitute of courage, candour, and good faith ; and so imbued with national pride, that foreign residents cannot obtain a servant to perform for them the most menial oflices. The Cochin Chinese are, like the Birmans, active and good-humoured. The religion of these countries, like all others in the east of Asia, is the system of Buddha. This is a species of ath< l^im, and the highest reword promised to its devotees is ultimate annihila- tion : it teaches that there are always some beings who, by reli- gbus merit, have attained a state of divine existence, when they are termed Buddhas. These holy characters descend, from time to time, upon earth to preserve the true doctrine among men. Four Buddhas have already appeared in a human form ; the last, under the name of Gaudama, about 500 years before the commencement of the Christian era. The image of the latter, a monstrous flgure of the imagination, is adored in all the temples, where his priests officiate to the populace. Here, as in other countries where the same system prevails, there are monks re- siding in the sacred places, and living in a state of celibacy. In Anam, much less attention is paid to religion than in Birmah and Siam, and the priests are few in number. The government of all the kingdoms of Farther India is a pure despotism, in which no check on the authority of the sovereign is recognized. The state ofllicers compose a sort of council, but are en* tirely subject to the monarch, and removable at his pleasure. The nobles, especially in Siam, show the most profound submission, and approach the throne creeping on the ground, and lying pros- trate on their faces. The king has many pompous titles, but that of shoe, or golden, is the most valued, and must be applied to him on every occasion. The armies of these nations consist almost entirely of a feudal militia, in which all the males of a certain age are enrolled, and m Kl!|' 1 1, -I •f'-^ *!••■•• lii-i| p ■ p".; P' ' ■■;t '1 ■ ! 480 ASIA. may be called upon to serve under the chiefs of their respective districts. Their organization and discipline are, however, very de- ficient. The only exception is in Cochin China, where the Euro- pean officers, formerly in the service of the government, effected considerable improvements in the discipline of the army of the late sovereign, which amounted, in the year 1800, to 140,000 men. The most efficient part of the national force consists of the war- boats, destined to act on the great rivers which form the main channels of communication in all these kingdoms. These are oAen of considerable size, and sometimes carry cannon. On land, the Biimans and Siamese trust chiefly to their stockades, which they throw up with surprising skill and expedition. In general, however, none of these troops can stand the charge of a disci- plined army, but, as soon as their defences are penetrated, they take to flight with precipitation. The customs of these countries allow to the female sex a much greater measure of liberty than in almost any other country of the East. They are neither immured nor veiled, nor withdrawn from the company and conversation of the other sex. This freedom, however, is not accompanied with any disposition to allow them that place in the scale of society which justly belongs to them. They are treated as the mere slaves of the stronger sex ; all the laborious duties are devolved upon them, and they manage most of the transactions of buying and selling. POPULATION AND EXTENT OF CHIN INDIA. Sq. M. Anam 350,000 Birmah 254,000 Siain 184,000 Population. 10,000,000 5,600,000 3,800,000 Sq. M. Brit. Territories, 77,000 Malacca 55,000 Population. . . 400,000 . . 200,000 Total 920,000. .20,000,000 I m BIRMAH. Birmah occupies the most northern and western part of the peninsula of Farther India. It extends from north to south about 700, and from east to west from 200 to 500 miles. Area, 254,000 square miles : population, 5,600,000. The empire con- sists of two important divisions. Pegu, once an independent, but now a subject kingdom, comprises all the sea-coast, and the mouths of the rivers. Ava, or Birmah, occupying the upper valley of the Irrawaddy, is the seat of the ruling power. The present empire was founded during the middle of the last century, by Alompra, a brave and patriotic individual, who res- INDIA. 481 sir respective 3ver, very de- ,ere the Euro- ment, effected I army of the 0, to 140,000 ists of the war- brm the main ,. These are ion. On land, ockades, which 1. In general, arge of a disci- penetrated, they lale sex a much jr country of the withdrawn from This freedom, ,n to allow them )elongs to them, ger sex; all the ey manage most INDIA. I Sa M. Population. hWo... 400,000 55.000... 200,000 Moo. .20,000,000 [stern part of the kh to south about \o miles. Area, [The empire con- I independent, but tt, and the mouths pper valley of the liddle of the last kvidual, who res- cued his country from the dominion of the Peguans, established its independence, and ascended the throne. Succeeding sovereigns conquered Siam, but were able to retain only a small portion of it. Arracan and other countries were also subdued, and the Birman empire became extensive and powerful. Rendered proud and arrogant by long-continued victory, the government, without adequate cause, excited a war against the East India Company, in the year 1826, which ended, two years afterwards, by t e humiliation of the Birmans, the cession of nearly all the mt ritime provinces, and the payment of about five million dollars to <^ards defraying the expenses of the war. In this country, no office, title, or rank, except that of the mon- arch, is hereditary, and promotion is open to all classes. The laws of Birmah provide for the suppression of almost every spe- cies of crime : they allow of the absurd mode of trial by ordeal ; and some of them, especially those which punish insolvency by slavery, and the cowardice of a soldier by the punishmeut of his family, must be regarded as barbarous and cruel. The adminis- tration of justice is so inefficient, that the country is overrun by robbers, who carry on their depredations in large bands. The people, in consequence, all reside in towns and villages : no one thinks of living in detached dwellings, on farms, or plantations. Besides the A vans and Peguans, there are several other races in Birmah, as Yiens, Shans, Karens, &c. Among the latter, the American missionaries in Maulmien, Chumerah, and the vicinity, have established churches and schools, which are attended by the natives, many of whom have exchanged their dark superstition for the pure light of the gospel. Ava, on the Irawaddy, 500 miles from the sea, has been the capital since 1824, and is said to contain a population reckoned at from 100,000 to 300,000. The principal temple of Gaudama, in this city, is 600 feet in length, and the interior is adorned with upwards of 200 pillars, 50 or 60 feet high, and entirely covered with gold leaf. This city, as well as Sagaing, a place of 50,000 inhabitants, on the opposite side of the river, was lately shaken to pieces by an earthquake ; by which every building in the empire, not made of wood or bamboo, was, at the same time, prostrated, and the inhab- itants buried in the ruins : many lives were also lost by the occur- rence of this great calamity. The former metropolis, Umerapoora, though but lately a splen- did city, is already much decayed. Its inhabitants, which, 20 years ago, were reckoned at 200,000, at present number only 30,000. This city is famous for its large bell, weighing 500,000 pounds ; an immense brass cannon, and a stupendous brazen image 41 ••fi 'I,;* »i WM m iM '■hn 482 ASIA. m ■yr-ii P^' :■.;...; of Gaudama. English and Armenian merchants are now settled here, and also in Ava. Rangoon, the grand emporium of the empire, is situated on one of the branches of the Irawaddy riv*»r, about 40 miles from the sea. The population, estimated at from 20,000 to 50,000, is com- posed, in a great measure, of foreigners from all the countries of the East. The chief ornament of Rangoon is the great temple of Shoe Dagon : it is inhabited by 1500 priests, and other religious persons employed in the service of Gaudama. The other sea- ports are Basseen and Martaban ; the latter on the Salwen, and the former on the western estuary of the Irawaddy, are not much inferior in trade to Rangoon. On ascending that river towards the capital, numerous towns and villages occur. Of the former, some of the chief are Prome, Meeaday, Patanagoh, Sembewghew, and Pagham-Mew. Prome, at one time the residence of the Pegu kings, carries on a great trade in timber, and is said to be more populous than Ran- goon. The most remarkable building in this city is the Shoe Madoo Praw, a brick pyramid, 361 feet high ; it is without a door or aperture of any kind, and almost a quarter of a mile in circum- ference at the base. The whole is covered with a tee, or umbrella, 56 feet in circumference. Pagham-Mew, the ancient and splendid capital of Birmah at a time when a higher taste in architecture appears to have prevailed than at the present day, abounds with magnificent remains of temples and royal edifices. Yay-nan-goung is famous for its trade in petroleum, or earth-oil, used for burning in lamps, and other purposes. The oil is pro- cured from wells in the vicinity ; 400 of which occur in a space of 12 square miles. Wf-i . ?*''i/ )•■ I 4; THE EMPIRE OF ANAM. This empire was founded during the latter part of the eighteenth century, and comprises several territories that were once separate and independent. It includes Cochin China, Tonquin, Cambodia, T'siampa, and part of Laos. The two first divisions are more properly entitled to the appellation of Anam. The sea-coasts are washed by the waters of the China Sea, and the gulfs of Tonquin and Siam. It extends, from north to south, 1100, and from east to west, from 400 to 200 miles. Area, 350,000 square miles : population, 10,000,000. Cochin China constitutes the original territory of the empire to which Tonquin and Cambodia were added by the late Caung 3 1 INDIA. 483 B now settled tuated on one lies from the >,000, is com- B countries of •eat temple of other religious he other sea- e Salwen, and , are not much er towards the 3 former, some »bewghew, and ngs, carries on ilous than Ran- ty is the Shoe J without a door mile in circum- tee, or umbrella, jnt and splendid 5 in architecture y, abounds with um, or earth-oil. The oil is pro- Kjcur in a space of the eighteenth re once separate quin, Cambodia, isions are more le sea-coasts are tulfs of Tonquin and from east lo square miles : |of the empire to the late Caung Shur That sovereign, being driven by a rebellion from his thi .' , was enabled, through the aid of several French officers, to regt.i it, and afterwards to organize and discipline his army in the European manner. This force, with a navy of three hundred gun-boats and a frigate, constituted a power which no native state in this part of Asia could withstand ; and enabled the emperor to become master of the extensive territories which formed his do- minions. The present monarch of Anam, unlike his predecessor, appears to be jealous of Europeans, and has none, it is believed, at present in his service. The precise condition of this section of Asia is unknown ; and it is not certain that the empire comprises the whole of the territories left by the late sovereign. Two attempts have been recently made, by the government of the United States, to open an intercourse with the legal authorities of Anam, which were both frustrated by the jealous and restricted policy of the pub- lic dfficers. The inhabitants consider themselves much superior to Euro- peans, and believe that they and the Chinese are the only civilized nations in the world. They take great delight in witnessing com- bats between the elephant and tiger, and are fond of cock-fighting, and dramatic representations. In the latter, the actors are often hired by the day ; and, if employed by a person in power, are fre- quently beaten if they fail to give satisfaction. The Cochin Chinese indulge to excess in smoking and chewing tobacco ; they consider hatched eggs a daiiity of the highest order, yet have a loathing for milk. The Christian religion was intro- duced into this country more than two hundred years ago ; and there are at present upwards of 300,000 Catholic Christians in the empire. Persons of rank and the officers of government are of the Chinese sect of Confucius, but the people of the lower class are Buddhists. Cochin China comprises a long narrow plain, included be- tween the shores of the China Sea and a chain of mountains, a short distance inland. It is tolerably fertile in the usual products of these regions. Both the agriculture and trade are carried on chiefly by the women; and their labour is considered equal in value to that of the stronger sex. The sea-coast abounds with va- rious marine productions, and furnishes the tripang, or biche de mer, together with edible bird's-nests, so much valued in China. Cambodia, the south-west division of Anam, stretches from north to south, full 500 miles, and has a sea-coast of about the same extent, lying along the Malayan sea and the Gulf of Siam, which is in general low and flat, and overgrown with wood. The country is inhabited by a mixture of Cochin Chinese, Malays, Chi- mrrM I'm '?'■*"„^ 484 ASIA. Bl'l' '..:' ■■ ^^^^ni''''^ 1 ^^^HMHjii ■ : . ' 'J ^^^HHj.'j^i. Hpij::!. ^^^H^^'j'r ;' H^iU< IhI-'^ '''''' ^ra-jhtV B^^"V''' Bs^M EW^-"^' ■ Bfljt'' ' • !■ J , |Mi^*r . Wliv'-I;', • Hit;!: ■;■'•.■■" BnV''t'., fmiT«i«taii VB 'o " ■, ■ ^■., *'! *.' ||'.;oifi:' ' '' i!^B^B^H f5-.""\ '■ "' ■'> ■ i.iWv ' ■j; ifj'- _ ^' ' ' ' • _ \ '■ !■' ■'' ' '; ■ •^-i 1 • , i . :> } Si if'' ■''■"'' ■ '; . :; . .i ■■ ■ 1: P- :|i'''- fjij-:.jiji'': Hih^^'i ' nese, and descendants of the Portuguese. The trade, except at the port of Saigon, is unimportant. ToNQuiN. — Of the three kingdoms now subject to the sovereign of Anam, Tonquin is the largest, most fruitful, and most valuable. Its character is decidedly Chinese, it having been only in the last century separated from that empire ; and stilLretaining all its forms and institutions. Both the English and Dutch have attempted to open an intercourse with Tonquin, where fine and cheap silks, lackered'Ware, and some gold may be obtained ; but the arbitrary exactions of the mandarins, and the little demand for foreign cloths, in consequence of costumes fixed by law being worn by all ranks, rendered it a losing traffic, and it has been almost wholly abandoned. T'siAMPA, or Chiamfa, is a small fertile district, lying to the southward of Cochin China. The climate is very hot and un- healthful for strangers. It abounds with elephants, and also with the rhinoceros. Laos, situated on the upper part of the Mecon river, and on both sides of that stream, is a country but little known : part of it is subject to Siam, part to Cochin China, and the residue indepen- dent. Some time ago, the king of Laos was taken prisoner by the Siamese, and carried, with his children, in a cage to Bnnkok, and several thousands of the inhabitants were forcibly taken to the same place. Elephants, both wild and tame, are extremely numerous in Laos ; and the capital of the country is designated by a term which signifies the place often millions of elephants. The people of Laos are called Shans. Hue, the capital of Anam and of Cochin China, is about ten miles from the sea, on a river of the same name, the banks of which are fertile and well cultivated. It consists of a large quad- rangular fort, or rather fortified city, which constitutes one of the most complete and remarkable military structures in Asia. Each side of the fortification is about a mile and a half in length, the rampart about thirty feet high, cased with brick and mortar. It was commenced in 1805, and is built in the regular European style, with bastions, a glacis 200 feet broad, and a ditch. An hundred thousand men were constantly employed on the works, during the period of their construction. It is supposed that 50,000 troops would be required to garrison, and from 800 to 1200 can- non to fortify, the place. Here, also, the king keeps his fleet of galleys. The population is estimated at 100,000. Turon, on a fine bay, is situated to the south of Hue ; Sinhoa, north of the same city. Tai-fo, Bambom, Quinhon, Phuyen, and INDIA. 485 Nha-triang, all south of Hue, are sea-porta, but little known, and seldom visited by Europeans. Saigon, the capital of Cambodia, is situated near the mouth of the river Donnai, which communicates with the Mecon by means of a canal of some magnitude. The city is composed of the two contiguous towns of Saigon proper and Bengeh. The latter, which is fortified, is the residence of the viceroy ; the former is the chief theatre of the trade and commerce of the empire. The markets are plentifully supplied with native products, and those of the neighbouring countries; but scarcely any European goods are to be seen. There is here a superb naval arsenal, formed under European direction, in which, from the very fine timber of the country, 150 galleys, of the most beautiful construction, have been built. Population of the city, 100,000. Kesho, situated about 20 miles from the mouth of the river Songo, is the chief city of Tonquin, and is said by some to contain 40,000 inhabitants : other accounts represent it as three or four times more populous. SIAM. SiAM, or Thai (literally, the free country), is situated between the empires of Birmah and Anam : it extends from north to south about 1100 and from east to west from 300 to 75 miles ; and has an area of 184,000 square miles, with 3,800,000 inhabitants. The kingdom includes Siam Proper, part of Laos, part of Cam- bodia, and the northern part of the peninsula of Malacca. The Meinam is the chief river of Siam ; it is deep and naviga- ble for some distance in the interior, and the country on its banks is fertile and well cultivated. Rice is the chief product, and tro- pical fruits of nearly all kinds are abundant and excellent. White elephants, as in Birmah, are objects of veneration and worship. They are attended and fed with great care, and are often adorned with gold rings on their tusks, and other rich ornaments of various kinds. Siam is supposed to be a very ancient kingdom, but its histori- cal annals are hardly known to the civilized world. Upwards of seventy years ago it was conquered by the Birmans, who retained possession of the country for some time. At length Piatac, a chief of Cfmiese origin, raised the standard of independence, and forced the invaders to retire: the Siamese provinces, however, bordering on the Bay of Bengal, remained in the hands of the Birmans ; but they now form a part of the British territories. A 41* ! % \ ^|i 486 ASIA. PI . i J'-'l:.,''.:' ' ¥'"■*■'?'■:' ^ f : . ■'■^. ■ ■ ' m rM If:::';* lit ili'f ■■■■' i»i ■ . llvij •■■■■:{ li 'ii ' ■ ■ p ■';■:■ Kir':- i ■ commercial treaty, between this country and the United States, was formed in 1833. Bnnkok, situated on the west side of the Meinam, about 20 miles from the sea, is the commercial emporium of the ki gdom. It became the seat of government upwards of 50 years ago ; and the ancient capital, Yuthia, 80 miles farther up the river, is now in ruins. Sia Yuthia, opposite to Bankok, is the residence of the court ; both places, however, form but one city. The houses are built both on the land and on rails of bamboo, floating on the river ; the latter comprise the largest number : they are little more than oblong boxes, that may be moved about from place to place, and are inhabited chiefly by Chinese. The shores of the Meinam are covered with gilded temples, and with the palaces of the grandees : they are raised on posts above the ground, which is so swampy as to render it difficult to wplk or drive through the streets. The travelling is performed chiefly on the river, in richly gilded and ornamented barges. The sacred places in Bankok are called Wats. They consist of spacious groves, containing pagodas, temples, images, houses for the priests, &c. There are above a hundred Wats in this city, and a few of them are spacious and magnificent structures. The inhabitants amount to 400,000, of whom about three-fourths are Chinese and their descendants. Several American mission- aries have visited this place, whose efforts in teaching and spread- ing the gospel have, though limited, been generally encouraging. Paknam, at the mouth of the Meinam, and Shantebon in Cam- bodia, are, after the capital, the towns of most importance belong- ing to Siam. BRITISH TERRITORIES. The British territories in Farther India consist of two divisions, British Birmah and British Malacca. The former includes the provinces ceded by the Birman government to the East India Com- pany ; and the latter comprises a small territory, <&c. situated at the extremity of the peninsula of Malacca : area of the whole, 77,000 square miles. The population, lately supposed to amount to 1,000,000, is now found not to exceed 400,000. British Birmah extends along the eastern shores of the Bay of Bengal. Its provinces lie in two distinct sections, each about 400 miles in extent, and separated one from the other by an inter- val of 300 miles of coast. The northern provinces are Assam and Arracan, the southern Martaban, 6z;c. Area, 76,000 square miles : population, near 320,000. J States, was m, about 20 hq ki gdom. irs ago ; and river, is now idence of the lie houses are ; on the river ; le more than to place, and 1 temples, and n posts above ificult to walk formed chiefly s. They consist images, houses ats in this city, puctures. ut three-fourths jrican mission- Ing and spread- encouraging, itebon in Cam- ortance belong- »f two divisions, ner includes the last India Com- &c. situated at of the whole, (osed to amount • ores of the Bay ons, each about her by an inter- are Assam and lO square miles : INDIA. 487 Auam, situated on the Burrampooter river, is inhabited by a rude people, who pay but little attention to cultivation. The tea- shrub grows wild ; and a considerable quantity of tea, the produce of the country, has been exported to England, and found to be of good quality ; gold, ivory, and silk, are sent in small quantities from Assam to Bengal. Arracan, once an independent kingdom, has suffered greatly from the ravages of war, and is thinly peopled. The city of Arracan, built on a river of the same name, formerly contained 80,000 inhabitants, but they are now reduced to about one-tenth of that amount. Akyab, at the mouth of the Arracan river, is a new and improving town lately founded by the British: population, 8000. Ramree, on an island, 100 miles south from Arracan, contains 7000 inhabitants. Martaban, Yeh^ Tavotfy and Tenasserimt are the southern provinces of British Birmah ; they extend along the sea-coast southward from the Salwen river. These districts were conquered by the Birmans from the Siamese ; they are thinly inhabited ; but they possess the most salubrious climate to be found in this part of Asia. Maulmein, on the east bank of the Salwen river, is the capital of British Birmah : it is a place of considerable trade, and is well garrisoned: population, 18,000. An American mission is sta- tioned here, to which a printing-office is attached, where books are printed in various eastern languages. Amherst was, some time since, founded by the British at the mouth of the Salwen : population, 10,000. Tavoy, containing 10,000, and Mergui, 6000 inhabitants, are the other principal towps. British Malacca includes the territory and city of Malacca, the island and city of Singapore, and the island of Pulo Pinang. The population altogether is about 83,000. The area does not exceed 1000 square miles. The territory and city of Malacca, situated at the southern ex- tremity of the peninsula of that name, were, in 1825, ceded by the Dutch government to England, in exchange for her possessions in Sumatra. The city was long a great commercial emporium ; but since Singapore has risen to importance, Malacca is much less frequented. It has, however, a fine climate, with some industry and cultivation carried on chiefly by the Chinese inhabitants. An Anglo-Chinese college is established here, and also an important English mission. The population of the territory is 35,000 ; of the city, about 5000. W •d' 't X m M \ ii-n .'m n i M 488 ASIA. m .'•if w m--- 1 ;i : . , mi\ •■■■ k tm !:■■!■.• 1^1^ ifi.'--r' :iii!i: Singapore, situated on a small island at the southern extremity of Malacca, was founded by the British in 1819; and being de> clared a free port, has acquired great commercial importance. The inhabitants have doubled in amount since 1828, and are now 80,000 in number, comprising Europeans, Americans, Malays, Chinese, Arabs, Jews, Hindoos, &c. There is, here, an important missionary station and printing establishment, where books, in va- rious eastern languages, are published. Pulo Pinangy or Prince of Wales's Island^ situated near the west coast of Malacca, was established as a settlement in 1786, and soon became a commercial depdt for the neighbouring dis- tricts, but is now, in a measure, supplanted by Singapore. George- Town is the capital : population of the island, 18,000. MALACCA. The peninsula of Malacca comprises the most southern part of Asia : it is 750 miles long, and from 50 to 150 wide, and is united to the rest of the continent by the isthmus of Kraw. On the west this country is bounded by the Bay of Bengal and the strait of Malacca, which last separates it from the island of Sumatra ; on the east side are the Gulf of Siam and the Malayan Sea ; the latter stretching from Malacca to Borneo. A range of high mountains extends through the whole length of this country, and the interior is covered with thick forests and marshes, so that it is difficult to penetrate any distance inland. The soil, though not very fertile, yet furnishes various fruits of excellent quality, and in great abundance ; grain, however, is not raised in sufficient quantity to supply the inhabitants. The northern part of the peninsula is under the control of Siam, and the southern, of Great Britain. The intermediate portion in- cludes a number of small independent states, governed by petty chiefs who are but little known. On the east coast are Ligor, Son- gora, Patani, Tringano, Pahang, and Johore, and on the west are Queda, Pera, and Salengore : the population of the whole proba- bly does not exceed 200,000. The inhabitants of Malacca are called Malays, and are all Mahomedans. Five hundred years ago they were a powerful and flourishing nation : they carried on an extensive commerce, con- quered Sumatra and the other principal islands in this quarter, and planted numerous colonies, in consequence of which they are a widely-spread people, and their language, with its various dialects, is spoken over the innumerable islands extending from Sumatra to the eastern limits of Polynesia. The superiority and rivalry of the Europeans, however, have diminished their importance, and m extremity id being de- importance, and are now jns, Malays, an important books, in va- situated near ment in 1786, hbouring dis- pore. George- 30. lUthern part of €, and is united . On the west 1 the strait of ,f Sumatra ; on ; Sea ; the latter .e whole length lick forests and distance inland. arious fruits of however, is not nts. control of Siam, diate portion in- verned by petty are Ligor, Son- on the west are le whole proba- lys, and are all B a powerful and commerce, con- this quarter, and hich they are a various dialects, from Sumatra to y and rivalry ol importance, and CHINESE EMPIRE. 469 they are now divided into a number of distinct tribes, without any sovereign or general head. The great body of the Malays arc slaves ; and the Oramlai, or nobility, who are the masters, are mostly independent, and sell their services to him who will pay them best. These people are fond of war, navigation, plunder, change of place, and all desperate enterprises ; they are, by turns, merchants, pirates, and robbers ; their vessels traverse all the oriental seas, and piracy is, with them, as regular an employment as commerce. Several instances have occurred in which both American and Euro- pean ships have been surprised by them, and the crews destroyed. The Malays are active only when engaged in war ,* at home they are indolent, leaving all the labour to their slaves, and despise agriculture, and other laborious employments. The Nioobar and Andaman Islks lie to the westward of Malacca, about 300 or 400 miles distant ; they are both in the possession of the natives. Those of the former group are of the brown Malay race, and are peaceable and well-disposed. The Andaman islanders are a variety of the oriental negroes. They go quite naked, never cultivate the ground, but live on fish, which they spear with great dexterity. The English attempted to form settlements on the Andaman, and the Danes on the Nicobar Islands, but both were abandoned, the climate being found fatal to European constitutions. CHINESE EMPIRE. The Chinese empire contains the greatest number of inhabitants subject to any one sovereign in the world, and is second only to the Russian empire in extent. It occupies a large portion of the central and eastern parts of Asia, and is inclosed on the north, south, and west, by Siberia, India, and Independent Tartary. This vast empire stretches over 70 degrees of longitude and 38 of latitude, being in extent, from east to west, 3300, and from north to south, 2200 miles ; comprising an area of 5,200,000 square miles, or nearly one-ninth part of the whole land surface of the globe. It includes various extensive territories, and several distinct nations, speaking different languages. The Mantchoos are the ruling people ; but the Chinese, or native race, comprise the great portion of the inhabitants. The emperor and the royal family belong to the dominant race. The population of the empire is variously reckoned at from 150 to 350 millions. The following estimate is about a utedium be- tween the two extremes : ^uW **''M^Bjl "' '^'^Ih '« Iri i y ■V- fV'M }> 4 7 ' m" H''' i:tr" If ■f). 'i W' i-iV mH 400 ASIA. China Little Bucharia. Mantchooria . . . Mongolia Soongaria Thibet, &,c Corea Square Milei. Population. 1,640,000 200,000,000 282,000 4,000,000 14230,000 3,000,000 1,200,000 2,000,000 200,000 2,000,000 600,000 8,000,000 48,000 7,000,000 5,200,000 226,000,000 Of this vast expanse of territory, China Proper, Mantchooria, and Little Bucharia, only are under the direct control of the Chi- nese government. The other regions are merely tributary, or protected states. Mongolia and Soongaria belong to the former : the latter includes the petty chiefs of Thibet and Bootan, the king- dom of Corea, and the Loochoo islands. it-; . my m '!■ ill W'^'^i'l ^=m II CHINA. China Proper is the principal division of the Chinese Empire. It occupies the south-eastern part of Asia, and is one of the most populous countries in the world. It is remarkable for the antiquity and singular character of its manners, customs and institutions, and for the reserved and jealous policy of its government towards other nations. In extent, this section of Asia stretches from south-west to north- east 1900 miles, and from south-east to north-west 1500: area, 1,640,000. It is divided into eighteen provinces, the majority of which are, in area and population, equal to some of the most pow- erful monarchies of Europe. The face of the country is much diversified, though the greater part of it is level, intersected by numerous rivers, canals, and oc- casional mountain chains, of which one of the most important appears to be a continuation of the great Himmaleh range, extend- ing eastward to the shores of the Pacific ocean. The chief rivers of China, the Hoang Ho and Yang-tse Kiang, rank amongst the most important on the eastern continent ; they both have their sources among the mountains of Thibet, and after a course of near 3000 miles, discharge their mighty waters into thfe ocean, separated by an interval at their mouths of only 160 miles. The principal lakes of China are the Tonting, about 300 miles in circumference, and covered with boats, inhabited by a numerous population, who igiubsist by fishing; and the Poyang, CHIN£ME EMPIRE. Population. 200,000,000 4,000,000 3,000,000 2,000,000 2,000,000 8,000,000 7,000,000 226,000,000 ', Mantchooria, ;rol of the Chi- y tributary, or to the former : )otan, the king- 4U1 The Chinese Empire, one of the most for the antiquity and institutions, ernment towards th-west to north- rest 1500 : area, the majority of f the most pow- lough the greater canals, and oc- most important eh range, extend- Yang-tse Kiang, 1 continent; they Thibet, and after ighty waters into luihs of only 160 >nting, about 300 8, inhabited by a and the Poyang, which is surrounded by picturesque and finely wooded hills, other lakes are of much less magnitude. The chief part of China lies in the temperate zone, and has n corresponding climate; but in the northern and western districts, from the proximity of the high mountains of Central Asia, the winters are severe. The coasts of China are often visited by tre- mendous tempests, called typhoons, resembling the hurricanes of the West Indies, which often cause great destruction of life and property. The soil is, either by nature or art, fruitful of every thing that can minister to the necessities, conveniences, or luxuries of life. This country produces nearly all the fruits of tropical and tem- perate countries. The camphor, tallow, and cinnamon trees are common in the fields and gardens. The most celebrated produc- tion, however, is the tea-plant, which grows wild, but is much im- proved by careful culture. It is a shrub, five or six feet in height, producing leaves of different flavour, according to the soil. This is so extensively used in China, that although European and Ame- rican traders talw annually from Canton upwards of sixty millions of pounds weight, it is said, that were the foreign exportation to cease altogether, it would not sensibly lower the price in that country. China produces nearly all the metals and minerals that are known in the world. White copper and tutenag are peculiar me- tals. The gold mines are only partially and slightly worked ; and the currency of that metal is supplied by grains, which are found in the sand of rivers and mountains. The silver is furnished from the mines of Honan. Coal is abundant. No nation is so famed for industry in all the arts that minister to human subsistence. The lands, in particular, are cultivated with a minute care, without example among any other people. The peculiar importance attached to agriculture is testified by an annual festival, in which the emperor exhibits himself to his sub- jects, guiding the plough. The Chinese carry on farming on a small scale, with rude instruments, and almost no cattle. Their chief exertions are employed in watering their fields ; and when that can be extensively performed, two crops are raised every year, without intermission or rotation. The highest mountains are formed into terraces, so constructed as to retain the requisite quan- tity of water, and allow what is superfluous to pass ; and reser- voirs are formed on the summits. In manufactures, these people are also eminent. The fabric of porcelain, so superior in beauty to every other species of earthen' ware, originated entirely with them ; and, though the taste of their imitators in Europe has produced more elegant patterns, they are in X !.J .' rl: Ma m ,|.! r*" i [."^'•'r' ' 11, ■) 409 ASIA. atill unrivallod as to its whiteness, hardness, and the transparency of its colours. Silk is also a fabric which the wcsfern world has acquired a knowledge of from the Chinese. A number of little or> namented trinkets and toys are also made with the simplest instru* ments, and by the hands of single individuals ; yet wi(!i a beauty which we in vain attempt to rival. Such are tV/'r ivory fans and baskets ; their ornaments of tortoise-shell and .-nother*of*pearl ; their silver 6ligree and lackered cabinets, chests, &c.; their stoincd paper and Indian>ink are also well known. The interior commerce of China is chiefly confined to the ope- ration of bartering the productions of its different provinces. The most ample facilities are afforded by the great rivers and thcii nu- merous tributaries, and also by the canals, which are constructeii on a greater scale than in any other country. Salt is a mf'Si '^.c- tensive article of traffic; and coal, turf, and other fuel give c ii pation to numerous barges. The distribution thrtiugho.)! China of the silks, porcelains, and various manufactures of nc central provinces, affords another source no less ample. The foreign commerce of this country amounts to between 30 and 40 millions of dollars annually ; of this the European part is the most considerable, and has been chiefly in the hands of the English. Foreigners can deal only with a body of licensed Chi- nese traders, called the Hong merchants, who are required to give security to the government for the payment of the import ond ex- port duties on the cargo of every ship that arrives, and for the good conduct of the crow. There are, however, others, called outside merchants, mnny of whom, under sanction of the Hong, carry on traffic to a considerable extent. The British trade in Canton is placed under the supervision of an officer of their own, appointed by the crown, and styled the Superintendent of the Merchants. About 45 million pounds of tea have been annually sent to England, besides a corresponding proportion of the other articles of trade. Of the European na- tions, the Dutch trade is the largest afler the British ; but even with the assistance of protecting duties in Holland, the Dutch can- not withstand the enterprise and activity of the Americans. Though the Portuguese possess tht; island o^ Macao, and the Spa- niards, from the Philippines, have pcc>s;> u^ '^e port of ^'noy, they make little use of these advanta^/ . 'it:: French, ^^swedes, and Danes all carry on a little intercourse with Canton. The trade to China from India, called the country trade, is prin- cipally in opium, cotton, pepper, tin, betel-nut, &c. ; the export of the former has increased five-fbid within the last 20 years, and has for some time past amounted in value, annually, to from 15 to ^ mil Ion dollars : the opium trade has gruwn up by means en- CUIN£SK EMPIRE. 498 •ansparency n world has f of little or- iplcsl 'rislru- iili a beauty ory fans and hcr-of'pearl ; their stained )d to the OTC- vinces. The and theii nu- « constructcci is a mf'St "^.c. jel jrivec- »i .ughiuit China of ',( central to between 30 jropean part is J hands of the if licensed Chi- •equired to give import and ex- Lnd for the good , called outside Hong, carry on ) supervision of and styled the lion pounds of corresponding European na- fritish; but even the Dutch can- the Americans, lo, and the Spn- tof ^'^oy,they •h, cjwedes, and y trade, is prin- ,. ; the export of it 20 years, and |ly, to from 16 to Ip by means en- tirely illegal, anr) has at length aroused the energy of the Imperial government; its I'lirther exportation has been prohibited, and 20,000 chests, belongiiif^ chiefly to British merchants, valued at ten million doliara, were seized by the authorities at Canton, in 1839, and destroyed. The American Chinetic fTlHe commenced in 1783 wi' a single vessel from the port of New York, and has increased from 30 to 40 ships annually ; tiio average amount '»'" whose cargot ;» up- wards of five million dollars; the imports are near 16 ni 'lion pounds of tea of various kinds, wi some r ankeens, silks, tuys, 6ic. : in return are sent seal-skins, ginseng, sea-slug, woollen and cotton goods, and specie. The foreign commerce carried on i>y the Chinese themselves, though much less in amount than that by Europeans, is not incon- siderable : many voyages are annually performed in their large, unwieldy junks, whose model can never « improved, as the slightest deviation from their present clumsy structure would sub- ject the owners to the high duties imposed on H reign merchants. Saigon, Bankok, Singapore, and Batavia are the jiorts to which the Chinese principally trade. The over-land foreign trade of China, carried on by caravans, is also extensive. The principal stations for this trade are Mai- matchin, on the Russian frontier ; Yarkand and Cas h^ar, near the frontiers of Bucharia; Ladak and Lassa, in 1 ubet; Y'ong- tchane, in Yunnan, near the Birman frontier ; and \oei-lin, near thatofAnam. The inland • navigation, by means of rivers and cunals, which everywhere abound, is unparalleled. The Imperial C anal is the greatest work of the kind in the world. It extends iiom Peking to the Kiang-ku, about 600 miles. It is said to have employed 30,000 men upwards of 40 years in its construction. The great wall which bounds China on the north is the most extensive fabric in the world. It is 1500 miles long, passing over a vast chain of mountains, 30 feet high on the plain, 15 or 20 when carried over rocks and elevated grounds ; and of such thickness, that six horsemen can easily ride abreast upon it. It is said to have been completed 214 years before the Christian era. The whole of the immense population of China composes strictly one people, cast in one mould, both of form and mind ; and exhibit, in their general appearance, striking proofs of Mongol origin. They have a square, flat face, small nose, pale, yellow complex- ion, and long black hair. The latter is plaited into a tail, reach- ing Torn the crown of the head sometimes as low as the calf of the leg, the rest of the scalp being closely shaven. According to the ideas of the Chinese, the chief beauty of the females consists 42 ■^ r 1 '! III Hf ' "'^''•' K^'JImW Br>->,' Wh m''^'-\' f ■;- • |: r •' |''':v / f''^f\ i .' ■> fv- ■■•■■■■ ■ ' '■-■ . ' ■ ' 494 ASIA. in the smallness of their feet, which are swathed from the ear- liest infancy, in order to prevent their growing to the natural size. The national character of the Chinese has been very differently regarded ; and perhaps there has of late prevailed a disposition to rate it somewhat too low. Quietude, industry, order, and regu- larity, qualities which a despotic government seeks always to fos- ter, seem to be peculiarly conspicuous. A general good-humour and courtesy reign in their aspect and proceedings. Flagrant crimes, and open violations of the laws are by no means common. The attachments of kindred are encouraged and cherished with peculiar force, particularly towards parents, and ancestry in gene- ral. The support of the aged and infirm is inculcated as a sacred duty, which appears to be very strictly fulfilled. It is said to be customary, that a whole family, for several generations, with all its members, live under one roof, and with only two apartments, one for sleeping, and the other for eating. Within the domestic circle, however, and that of ceremonious social intercourse, appears to terminate all that is estimable in the Chinese disposition. In every other respect, they show no interest in the welfare of their fellow-creatures, nor even the com- mon feelings of sympathy. Repeated instances have occurred of Chinese dropping into the sea, and being rescued by foreigners, while their own countrymen did not take the least notice, or make a single effort to save them. Their propensity to fraud has been amply noticed by travellers, but appears to have been somewhat exaggerated. The want of all independent place and power, the abject sub- mission required, and the application of the rod to all classes alike, produces a general degradation of character, and the vices which are its natural consequences. The highest officers of state are said to show an entire disregard of truth, and hesitate not to utter the most glaring falsehoods, whenever a political purpose is to be served. Learning is highly esteemed in China ; and superior attainments in knowledge are a sure passport to oflSce and distinction. The literature is, however, much encumbered by the difficulties of the language, which is meagre and imperfect. Poetry is a general study, and there are many tales, books of ceremonies, dramas, &c. The literary works most esteemed are attributed to Confucius. There is a gazette published at Canton ; and, though there is no censorship, the penalties for publishing what is distasteful to the au- thorities are sufficiently severe to restrain all liberty of the press. The existing worship of China is a confused mixture of super- stitions ; for, generally speaking, all religions are tolerated, though llie reigning Tartar family adhere principally to the religion of CHINESE EMPIRE. 495 the Grand Lama. The religion of Fo is professed by the great body of the people, and its temples and priests are very numerous. This system is very similar to Buddhism in other countries, Fo being merely another name for Buddha. The doctrines of Confu- cius are adopted by the learned : they consider the universe to be an animated system, actuated by one spirit, of which every living thing is an emanation, and to which, aAer death, it returns. This sect pays divine honours to the heavens and the earth, the sun and moon, deified sages, heroes, inventors of useful arts, martyrs to virtue, eminent statesmen, and ancestors. The Taou, or Rational religion, is also prevalent in China. Its votaries are devoted to contemplation : they profess to despise riches, fame, and worldly distinction, and place their chief good in tranquillity and present enjoyment. There were many Catholic Christians once in China ; but they have been often persecuted, from an indiscreet zeal in the missionaries ; so that, at present, they are hardly tolerated. There have been, for some years back, both American and British Protesiant missionaries stationed in Canton or Macao : their success, however, in spreading the gospel has been but limited. The Scriptures, with a number of religious works and tracts, have been translated, and printed in the language of the country, and distributed to some extent. The Chinese are more completely and substantially clothed than the other nations in the south of Asia. The men wear long gowns and petticoats, which would give them a feminine appear- ance, did they not add boots ; while the women, with short jackets and trousers, might pass for men, but for the elegant ornament of braiding their hair with flowers. Silks, satins, and occasionally fine cottons, form the material of dress for the higher ranks : the lower are clad in coarse cottons. The button forms the attribute of rank, and, by its various shapes and sizes, expresses at once, to a Chinese eye, the dignity of the wearer. The people of China differ from the other Orientals in their food, and in the mode of taking it. Instead of squatting on the floor, and eating with their fingers, they sit on chairs, and eat off tables. Their dishes are piled in successive stages over each other : they consist, in a great measure, of confections and fruits, the latter of which are iced. One favourite luxury of the rich con- sists of soups made with the gelatinous substances, sea-slug, birds'- nests, &c., imported firom Cochin China, Malaysia, &,c. The mandarins live luxuriously ; the ordinary Chinese can have only rice, with a little seasoning. The lower classes are always strait- ened for food, and often eat various animals, and articles of diet rejected by other nations. Tea is the well-known universal beve- rage, presented at and after meals, and on all occasions. Their u ^^^ u '\li- ■'■j^i'j i -n VM ? = 5 ■( j. ;; f , ■'■if-. '. If''''''' Is . ■ ' •< Wh- If. ^,. ■.■ i m. ■■■' v'- ■-• '■ ' . jr»,l!- K. 4«0 ASIA. wine is bad, but they have an ardent spirit, distilled from grain, of which they use pretty largely in private. There is not, in any part of the world, a government more en- tirely despotic than the Chinese. No rank or honour exists except that which emanates from the sovereign. No distinctions are owned except those conferred by office. This supreme power of the monarch is claimed for him as the representative of Deity on earth ; and, although his government is entirely unlimited, yet it is in practice among the most mild and protecting. The emperor is held within a circle of laws, institutions, and ideas, by transgressing which, he would lose the very basis on which his authority rests. The doctrine that he is the son and vicegerent of Heaven implies that he will use this high descent and power in securing prosperity to the nation over which he holds a higher than earthly sway ; and this is so fully recognised, that, even when his people are suiiering under evils of nature, famine, earthquake, or inundation, he takes the blame, humbles himself, fasts, and strips himself of his costly attire, as a penitent under whose sins his people are groaning. The fundamental, and highly laudable maxim in this country, has long been to make skill in literature the sole ground of official rank and public employment. The examinations for this purpose are conducted with the greatest apparent fairness, and, as seems to be generally believed, with much real impartiality. Strict precau- tions are adopted for this purpose ; such as, that every piece of composition that is to be judged, must be given in sealed and anonymous. The military force of China amounts to about 800,000 men. The greater part are a mere militia, which, in their appearance and habits, are most unmilitary. Their paper helmets, wadded gowns, quilted petticoats, and clumsy satin boots, exhibit to the eye of the European, nothing of the aspect of war. It appears from ancient records, that the Chinese and Tartars made use not only of gunpowder, but even of something resembling cannon ; but artillery does not at present constitute any part of the effective force of the empire. A few armed vessels are employed to pre- vent smuggling and piracy ; but nothing which can be called a navy. The Chinese are, undoubtedly, a very ancient nation ; and from the brief notices of the Roman historians, we learn that they were 1800 years ago, precisely a similar people to what they are at present. Their early annals are evidently fabulous, reaching back to a period of 49,000 years : their esteemed authors, however, ascribe to the empire the more credible antiquity of 3000 years before Christ. About the fifth century before the Christian era, CHINESE EMPIRE. 497 arose Confucius, whose master>mind established those principles of law, manners, and government which have since predominated in this country. From that period China has existed as a distinct empire, although it has several times been subdued by different conquerors. The last event of this kind occurred in 1644, when it was overrun by the Mantchoos, who, however, assumed the laws and manners of the people they vanquished. The name of China is unknown to the natives, who call themselves men of the Cen- tral Empire, or men of the Central Flower. Peking, the celebrated capital of this great empire, stands al- most in a corner of it, only 40 miles from the great wall. It con- sists of two very distinct parts, the Chinese and the Tartar cities, of which the former is the most elegant and populous, but the latter is adorned by the imperial palace and gardens. The united city is about twelve miles in circumference, surrounded by walls, like every other in China ; but those of Peking are peculiarly lofty, and completely hide the city from those who are without. The population is estimated at 1,500,000. Peking is divided into re- gular streets, the principal one of which crosses the whole city, and is about 120 feet wide, unpaved, but carefully watered. It consists chiefly of shops, which, though, like most other edifices in the empire, seldom exceeding one story in height, are adorned with flags, varnish, painting, and lanterns of a peculiar and elegant construction. The streets are immensely crowded, as the Chinese spend much of their time in the open air. Nanking, the ancient capital of China, is in extent, considera- bly superior to Peking. Since the government and tribunals, how- ever, were transferred to the latter, it has greatly declined, and about a third part of its area is now uninhabited. Nanking is still the most manufacturing city of the empire. Learning also continues to flourish in an unrivalled degree; booksellers' shops are more numerous, and a greater number of physicians are educated here than in any other city of the empire. This city contains the celebrated porcelain tower, which con- sists of nine stories, ascended by 884 steps. The material is a fine white tile, painted in various colours ; and the whole is so artfully joined together as to seem one entire piece. The galleries are filled with images, and set round with bells, which jingle when agitated by the wind. On the top is a large ball, in the shape of a pine-apple of solid gold. The inhabitants amount to .500,000. Souchow is extolled by the Chinese as their terrestrial paradise. Branches from the great canal traverse it throughout, and render it, like Venice, a city on the waters. The small lake of Taihoo, in the neighbourhood, surrounded by picturesque hills, affords a scene of delightful recreation. Population, 700,000. 43 * ! i \M.tii M: ■,' 1 m mww' t:4 IV" h i: I. r; > M-r\ • 1 ; 498 ASIA. Canton, the best known city of China, and with which alone Euro* peans carry on habitual intercourse, is situated at the confluence of the Pekiang with the Taho river, and at the head of a broad estuary, called the Bocca Tigris, which extends about fifty miles in length and twenty in breadth, to its junction with the ocean. This city is almost five miles in circumference : besides which, its extensive suburbs compose, as it were, another town. The waters of the Bocca Tigris, also, are covered with boats, arranged in streets, the tenants of which have no home on land. The hongs, or factories, as the warehouses and residences of the European and American merchants are called, are handsome buildings, situ- ated in the suburbs, and arranged in a line along the water. The streets of Canton are narrow, and the front of almost every house is a shop ; but the suburbs and vicinity contain many agreeable sites, in which the wealthy inhabitants have erected their mansions. The inhabitants are estimated at 800,000. Near the mouth of the Bocca Tigris is the island of Macao. The town built on it is the only European settlement in China. It was once a place of high importance, when the Portuguese, in their days of prosperity, carried on most of the commerce between Europe and China. It has more than shared, however, in that supine sloth and decay which have involved all their Eastern em- pire. The town contains, at present, a population of 12,000, in- cluding about 4000 Portuguese. Shang-hae is the great commercial mart of Eastern China ; it is situated not far from the Yang-tse-kiang, in one of the most populous parts of the empire. The missionary, Mr. Gutzlaflf, who visited it a few years ago, found its port crowded with junks, and every evidence of a great commerce, and a dense population. The coasting trade of this city is said to exceed that of Canton. Teen-tsin, on the Pei-ho river, about 75 miles south-east from Peking, is the principal trading mart of Northern China, and the sea-port of the capital. Besides the vast trade of the surrounding region, 600 large junks arrive here annually from Southern China, Cochin China, and Siam : it is al«o a great depdt for salt. The population is said to be 700,000. A number of other cities in China, but little known to foreign- ers, are large and populous, and are the seats of manufacturing and commercial industry. Of these, Hangtchow has 600,000 in- habitants; Kingteching, 500,000; Voutchang, 400,000; Nant- chan!)■ ! ■■ i ■ •::it»;t^'-^f-' ', .) ajriH^^HB |H| 1 1' '' ' ^^H ■ ' 500 ASIA. THIBET. Thibet forms a high table plain, surrounded on all sides by ranges of loily mountains, some of which are among the most elevated on the globe : it is bounded on the north by Mongolia, west by Little Thibet, south by Hindoostan and Birmah, and east by China. On the southern boundary are the Himmaleh moun- tains, and on the northern the Kuenlun. The exact dimensions of this region are but imperfectly known ; it is supposed to be about 1000 miles in extent from east to west, and 600 or 700 from north to south. Besides its grand mountain features, Thibet is distinguished as containing the sources of many of the greatest rivers of Asia. The Burrampooter, the Irrawaddy, the Mecon, the Hoang-Ho, and Ydng-tse-Kiang, all have their sources within its borders. Thtj lakes are the Terkeri, 70 miles long, lake Tousea, and several others, respecting which but little is known. One of these lakes is said to resemble a large canal about 6ve miles in breadth, and surrounding an island, a hundred miles in circumference. The climate of Thibet, especially in winter, is cold and bleak in the extreme, from the severe effects of which the inhabitants are obliged to seek refuge in the sheltered valleys and hollows. In the temperature of the seasons, however, a remarkable uniformity prevails, as well as in their periodical duration and return. The soil of Thibet is generally thin and sterile ; yet the wants of the inhabitants are amply supplied by the animal and mineral wealth of the country. The principal domestic quadrupeds are the broad-tailed sheep, shaw! goat, and yak : the latter is a spe- cies of buffalo, with a hump upon the shoulders. It furnishes food and clothing to the inhabitants, and it is also used as a beast of burden. Its tail is covered with long glossy hairs, and is much used in the East to drive away flies. Gold, lead, quicksilver, rock-salt, and tincal, or crude borax, are among the mineral productions of this country ; the last is found in inexhaustible quantities in a lake of about 20 miles in circumfer- ence, in the northern part o^ the country. The manufactures of Thibet are principally shawls and woollen cloth. The exports, which go chiefly to China and Bengal, con- sist of gold-dust, diamonds, pearls, musk, rock-salt, woollen cloth, and lamb-sldns : in return for which, silk, satin, gold and silver brocade, tea, tobacco, and furs of various kinds, are received from China; and from Bengal, the productions of that country, and a variety of English commodities and manufactures. The inhabitants of Thibet are stout and hardy, and of a ruddy comn!evion : they are of various distinct tribes, which are but liftle THIBET. 501 known. These people are mild and gentle in their manners, and have made some progress towards civilization : though sunk in superstition, they are free from many of the sanguinary customs of the Hindoos. What learning they possess is chiefly connected with their religion, and, together with the language, is of Hindoo origin. The houses are meanly constructed, and built of rough stone, with a few apertures to admit light. The Thibetians are said to reverse the general practice of the East, in polygamy, the women being permitted to have several husbands. The eldest brother of a family has the prerogative of choosing a wife, and she becomes the wife of all the others. The dead are either buried, burned, thrown into a stream, or exposed in the open air to be devoured by wild beasts. Thibet is remarkable as the chief seat of that branch of the Buddhist religion, which in China is called Fo, and in Tartary Shamanism. The Grand Lama is the sovereign head of this system ; he is considered to be the Creator himself, in a human form, and is believed to be immortal ; and when he dies, his spirit merely quits a diseased and worn-out tenement for one more youth- ful and vigorous. In that event, the priests, by pretended celestial indications, discover an infant into whom his soul is supposed to have transmigrated. This person is immediately exalted into the character of Lama, and in his name all the civil and ecclesiastical affairs of the state are administered ; and such is the sanctity at- tached to his character, that it is pretended a heavenly odour is exhaled from his whole body ; that flowers grow beneath his foot- steps ; and that in the most parched desert, springs flow at his command. In Thibet and the bordering regions of Tartary, every great district has its Lama ; but the chief of these spiritual sovereigns is the Grand Lama, who resides at Lassa ; next to him is the Teshoo Lama, resident at Teshoo Loomboo. As the sovereignty centres in the Lama, so the nobility is formed by the monks, called jelums. The monastic principle exists under the Buddhist system in its utmost rigour. These habits being adopted by the most cele- brated characters both in church and state, the idea of dignity is exclusively centred in them, and those of degradation and vul- garity are attached to marriage. The priests reside in large man- sions, uniting the character of convents and palaces. Their de- portment is represented as humane and obliging ; on the part of superiors unassuming, and respectful on that of inferiors. A favourite part of the religious services in Thibet consists of music, less remarkable for its harmony than noise. The priests assume the whole business of prayer. They sell a certain num- ber of prayers, which are written out and attached to the cylinder V: ■a' '' ^ ^ > P|^|'^ i. '■ >:,:,■■■ - (.'■■■■ K'f ' • ) ' ■■ '* V'^r ,• K|;^j,|' i' .. • ^K^ji'!' i' ) . , Rf ; : ■ ■■ ' ' ;, - Hbt'' > 1 Ml r. I < r . .. K(''),''' ffi-'' ^ ( Kv;. , f ■■ Hf K' . I ■ Hi k^ -' ' ' ll'^^»'-. ^{!*-- ■ B*-)'" "■■■ '' ife ■•/ »' l' . j W((i'-' \''ii ''• ; ' '^ «^'- ■ '.' '■' fi ^^''' ' i'- "i liitiMii^^*!*' '■^- .' *"S?P'i.t>* A '-:■■ ■{■ , '■■ vt , ■ ; • .■ ' ,' ''- 502 ASIA. of a mill, and every turn is supposed to constitute a valid prayer. Some are moved by water. Notwithstanding the diiTerence between the religion ofthiscoun* try and that of tlindoostan, many of the temples of Thibet are crowded with Hindoo idols ; and the seats of Indian pilgrimage, particularly Benares, Juggernaut, &;c. are devoutly visited by vo- taries from the dominions of the Grand Lama. On their part, the Hindoos pay a deep religious veneration to the lofty snowy peaks and the lonely mount«'n lakes of this elevated neighbourhood. Lassa, the spiritual capital of Central Asia, is situated in the finest part of Thibet ; and, independent of its chief ornament, the temple of Pootala, is represented as handsome and opulent. The inhabitants are estimated at 80,000. This city is the seat of the grand, or sovereign Lama, from whom all the priests and sovereigns of that denomination, throughout Thibet and Tartary, receive their investiture. He ranked, also, till lately, as the civil ruler of an extent of country about 300 miles in length, and com- posed of the best territory in this region ; but the Chinese, after expelling the Nepaulese invaders, annexed his domain to their empire. They rule it, however, with a mild sway, leaving all the ecclesiastical institutions undisturbed, and in full possession of their ample endowments ; and the tribute, conveyed by an annual em- bassy to Peking, is extremely moderate. Teshoo Loomboo is the seat of a Lama, second in rank to that of Lassa. About 400 mansions combine to form a large mon- astery, the walls of which are built of stone, the roofs of coloured v/ood, and crowned with numerous gilded canopies and turrets. The number of monks, or jelums, the sole inhabitants of this monastic capital, amounts to about 4000. Jigagungar, the largest city in Thibet, is situated near the Trrawaddy : it is said to contain 100,000 inhabitants, but nothing is positively known of its loca- tion or condition. Little Thibet lies north of Hindoostan and west of Thibet. It is very imperfectly known, and is a high and rugged region, sur- rounded on all sides by vast mountains, from which flow the head streams of the Indus, the Ganges, the Burrampooter, and the Amoo rivers. This country is governed by various petty chiefs, some of whom are independent, and others acknowledge the power of China. The inhabitants profess the religion of the Grand Lama. The chief town, Ladak, is situated on the Indus river : it is the seat of a considerable trade, being the place of resort for the caravans from Thibet, Hindoostan, and Cabiil, to Yarkand and Little Bucharia. Near the source of the Indus river is Gortope, a great market for shawl-wool, which is collected here from the adjoining districts, and sent from hence to Cashmere. .; ■ rr. h. 1 ; '■ ,■ alid prayer. of this coun- ' Thibet are pilgrimage, iaited by vo- [leir part, the snowy peaks ourhood. luated in the jrnament, the pulent. The I the seat of e priests and and Tartary, jr, as the civil gth, and com- Chinese, after main to their leaving all the session of their an annual em- in rank to that k a large mon- .jfs of coloured ilea and turrets. ibitants of this [gar, the largest said to contain iwn of its loca- st of Thibet. It [ed region, sur- [h flow" the head hooter, and the us petty chiefs, ledge the power le Grand Lama. Jus river: it is ff resort for the „ Yarkand and iver is Gortope, fd here from the lere. JAPAiN. JAPAN. SJOli Japan is a flourishing and populous empire, situated on the eastern confines of Asia. It bears a strong resemblance to China, in the nature of its institutions, and in the manners, customs, and character of its inhabitants. Being marked by striking and pecu> liar features, it has attracted a large share of the curiosity of civilized nations. This empire is separated from the continent of Asia by the Sea of Japan, thestraitsof Corea, and the channel of Tartary. It com- prises .he islands of Niphon, Sikoke, Kiusiu, and Jesso, the south- ern division of Seghalien, with about one-half of the Kurile islands. The area of the whole is estimated at 260,000 square miles, and the population is supposed to be about 24,00o,000. Lofty and rugged mountainj, of which several are volcanoes, traverse all the larger islands, and render the scenery bold, varied, and striking. Fusi is the highest mountain in Japan : its elevation is unknown, but its summit is covered with perpetual snow. The Japanese are among the most industrious nations of Asia. Their fertile soil, and even those parts of it to which nature has been the least bountiful, are improved with the most exemplary diligence. Rice is the main stalT of life. Next in utility ranks the daid-su, a species of large bean, which, being made into a pulp, serves like butter as a condiment to season many of their dishes. Wheat and barley are also standard grains, though not to an equal extent. The tea-plant grows without culture in the hedges ; ginger, pep- per, sugar, cotton, and indigo are cultivated with success. One of the most valuable trees is the Arusi, which yields the varnish employed in the rich lackered ware peculiar to the country. There are but few cattle in Japan ; a variety of the buffalo, and some small oxen, only being employed in agriculture. The horses are small, but not numerous : dogs abound, and a few hogs have been brought from China. This country is rich in mineral productions, which consist of gold and silver, cop|)er in great abundance, said to be the best in the world, some iron and tin, also sulphur and coal. Pearls and am- ber are found on the sea-shores in considerable quantities. The manufactures are similar, in fabric and appearance, to those of the Chinese. Silk, cotton, porcelain, and lackered ware, in which last the people excel, are the chief. They are also well acquainted with the art of working in glass and metals. The Japanese do not, themselves, carry on any foreign com- merce, but permit the Chinese and Coreans to trade ^o Nangasaki ; ! ' 1' '1 1 : • l!^ Mi W ' I \n 504 ASIA. ft*. :■ '<• J I J 1 ^i -y ■ : ffi 1 ( 1 1>, ■ ■•' - 1 aldo, the Dutch, who are restricted to a small island, where, sub> jected to every humiliation, they are allowed to dispose of two annual cargoes. As they make, however, on these, a profit of 100,000 dollars, they continue to endure all the mortifications and dangers which attend this traffic. I'he internal commerce of the empire, and the coasting trade, appear to be very extensive. All the shores and bays are crowded with barks, conveying from place to place the various products of the provinces. The roads are excellent, and thronged in a surprising degree ; they are kept clean by the mere anxiety of the people to collect the mud as manure. The broad and rapid torrents in the mountainous districts are crossed by handsome bridges of cedar, well fenced, and always kept in the most perfect repair. This country was entirely unknown to the ancients, and is not mentioned by any of their historians. The mpire, however, has records, which affect to detail its revolutions for a period long an- terior to that which we are justified in assigning to the origin of human society. The Portuguese visited Japan in the early part of the sixteenth century : they were well received, and for a time freely admitted into the country. Under their auspices the Catho- lic missionaries propagated Christianity to a great extent ; many of the princes and nobles were converted, and even an embasry was sent to the court of Rome. Owing to the imprudence, how- ever, of the Portuguese, they, aud all other Christian nations, were banished, and many thousands of the native converts suffered a miserable death from persecution. The Japanese of the present day seem to be more averse than even the Chinese, to hold any intercourse with foreigners ; and they appear particularly studious to exclude Christians ; the Dutch only being allowed access to the empire. An attempt was lately made by some American citizens to restore to their native coun- try three Japanese sailors, who had been shipwrecked on the coast of^ California ; but they were not permitted to land, and the vessel, though unarmed, was fired on. The government of Japan is an absolute and hereditary mon- archy, which is believed to be administered, generally, in accord- ance with the public welfare. The dairi, or emperor, who is con- sidered a descendant of the gods, is at present only the spiritual ruler of the empire, the whole civil power having been usurped in 1585 by the kubo, or commander of the forces, who leaves to the dairi merely the name and honours of emperor. The latter re- sides in his palace at Miaco, which he never quits except on a visit to some of the principal temples. The provinces are governed by hereditary princes, who form a JAPAN. 505 where, sub- pose of two a profit of Eications and asting trade, id bays are 5 the various and thronged mere anxiety }ad and rapid jy handsome 5 most perfect its, and is not however, has eriod long an- the origin of e early part of nd for a time ces the Catho- extent; many en an embassy prudence, how- n nations, were erts suffered a ire averse than areigners; and gins ; the Dutch mpt was lately ir native coun- ;ed on the coast and the vessel, lereditary mon- ally, in accord- or, who is con- ily the spiritual een usurped in lo leaves to the The latter re- sxcept on a visit J, who form a 8ort of feudal aristocracy, and generally occupy strongly fortilied castles : they maintain lolly ideas of independoiico, and, in conse- quence, arc watched with a jealous eye by the governincnt, which requires them to leave their families at the capital us hostni^cs, iiikI also to reside there themselves for a part of the year. When iiiiy of these nobles arc convicted of treasonable practices, cnpitiil punishment is the inevitable consequence. The Japanese are a robust, well-made, active people. They h;»vo straight black hair, and the small oblique eye which charactcrisrs the Chinese. Their complexion, a yellowish brown, appears to be produced by climate only, since ladies, who are constantly pro- tected from the heat of the sun, are as fair as in Europe. The laws of this empire are extremely severe ; the punishments are cruel and executed with the utmost rigour. The security of person and property is, in consequence, rendered very complete. Great crimes and capital punishments are, perhaps, more rare here than in almost any other nation. Roasting alive, cutting to pieces, and immersion in boiling oil, are common modes of punish- ing the guilty. The parent is made to suffer for the crimes of the child, and the child for those of the parent. The Japanese are distinguished by a more manly frankness and independence of thought and manner than is common amongst Asiatics. They are not destitute of courage, and are good-hu- moured, patient, and industrious, but suspicious and vindictive. Pride seems to be the greatest defect in their character ; it runs through all classes, rises to the highest pitch among the great, and leads them to display an extravagant pomp in their retinue and style of living. Self-murder here, like duelling in Europe, appears to be the point of honour among the upper ranks ; and the nobles, even when condemned to death by the sovereign, reserve the pri- vilege of executing the sentence with their own hands. There are three religious sects in Japan. That of Budso, of Confucius, and of spirits, or genii. The last, called the reli- gion of Sinto, is a native system, at the head of which is the dairi ; the Budso is the same as that of Buddha which prevails so extensively over all Eastern Asia : this is the most popular form of worship, and has great influence with the common people. The religion of Confucius, brought from China, has many followers. The Japanese temples are remarkable for the great number, the singular shapes, and the stupendous magnitude of their idols, which are said to amount to more than 30,000 ; and no where is idolatry more gross and monstrous than among these people. Women hold a higher rank in this country than in China ; they enjoy the same degree of liberty as in Europe, and are educated with the same care as the other sex. Pilgrimage to the shrine of- 43 i; > « M'ii 6iii!ffi fili vl i' : A I'- ■4; it,.. : 1 -]. ao(\ ASIA. Isjc, tho most holy spot in tho empire, is hold to Ikj nil iiidispnrisa. bio duty once n your ; and, in consocjiK.'nco, tho ronds Icuding to that phicc uro contimiully crowded with dovoiit worshippers. Tho Jupaneao prolkhly truvcl more tiiun any otlier |)eople. This is owing to thoir nuinorousj pilgrimuges, thi((iiiig to jH3()|)lc. 1 his ' tlitnr iulauil )0 in nunilicr, Din tlu! court \out inconve- e ; uiid in all nnounco that, be Kuho, lies liphon. It is lany splendid jnt of the fre- Tho puluce, imforence, in- ious mansions ty is subject to JO,OOG houses, irries on, also, leat of polished rhe finest silk- iiishes, the best )recious metals I, the centre of h are published ibitants amount ous orders and o is situated, is numerous ca- ation, 150,000. 00 inhabitants. pire into which istrious, trading are allowed to a space of 600 ,d several large any contraband ; is confidently ist the powerful s, notwithstand- AFRICA •">07 AFRICA. \rHicA ifi, next to America, the greatest division of the globe. It comprises about one-third of the world known to the; ancitiiils ; uiid, though setll('(l nt a very early period, is still the ll'a^t known quarter of the earth. It is almost entirely in a state of barbarism ; yet in ancient times, its northern states rivalled Kiiropo in civilization. I'^gypt and Carthage, when in their glory, ranked among the most improved and opulent countries then existing ; and, in after ages, a high degree of learning and science distinguished the splendid Saracen courts establishccl in the west of Harbary. The continued sway, however, of th(! Mahomedan religion, and the separation caused by it from all the refined modern nations, have caused these coun- tries to relapse into comparative barbarism. Africa forms a vast peninsula three times larger than Murope, and about one-third less than Asia. It is bounded on the north by the Mediterranean Sea, on the oast by the Red Sea and the Indian Ocean, on the west by the Atlantic, and on the south by the South- ern Ocean. Occupying 72 degrees of latitude, and almost 70 of longitude, it extends from north to south 5000 miles, and from east to west 4700 miles, comprising an area of 11,000,000 square miles. The most striking feature of this part of the eastern continent is the Great Desert, an immense tract of arid sand, ranging from the Atlantic ocean to the Red Sea, and comprising an area equal to almost the one-half of Europe. This vast and almost boundless plain, exposed to the vertical rays of a burning sun, is deprived of all moisture necessary to cover its surface with vegetation. Moving sands, tossed by the winds, and whirling in eddies through the air, surround, and continually threaten to bury the traveller, in his lengthened route through these trackless deserts. The sterility of the scene is only interrupted by a few islands, or oases, as they arc termed, scattered at wide intervals over this im- measurable waste. These spots, ofTording springs, verdure, and a few dates, support a scanty population, but are chiefly valuable as places of rest and refreshment for the caravans. The interior regions of Africa being but imperfectly known, it is not possible to detail accurately its mountains and rivers : they do not, however, appear to equal the mighty snow-capped ranges of Asia, or the magnificent water-courses >'"<' America. The rivers are but few in number, and none of them are navigable to any ex- i\ mi m K f - i 608 AFRICA. •'J- V -'V S.'. •*■;•':;', jt!'i.' t. i tent for large vessels. The Nile of Egypt, the far-famed myste- rious Niger, the Senegal, the Gambia, the Congo, the Orange, and the Zambeze, are the principal African streams. The mountains are generally more distinguished for extent than elevation. The Atlas mountains in Northern, the Snowy moun- tains in Southern, and those of Kong and of the Moon in Central Africa, are the principal ; the two last seem to form in connexion an almost unbroken range across it from east te west. The Crystal mountains in the interior of Congo and the Lupata chain on the east coast, are so little known, that even their very existence is doubted. Some ranges in Abyssinia are described as attaining a considerable elevation ; but no scientific measurements have yet been made for ascertaining that point. Africa is the hottest region on the globe. It lies mostly within the tropics, and the influence of a lervid climate extends even over those portions which are in the temperate zones. Some parts of this region have the most insalubrious atmosphere in the world. Sierra Leone, the coasts of Guinea, Congo, and Zanguebar, have all been found particularly fatal to the existence of Europeans and Americans ; it is only in the most southern districts that they find a climate suited to their constitutions. The Harmattan of the west coast, and the Khamsin of Barbary and Egypt, are dry scorching winds, similar to the Simoom of Asia and the Sirocco of Southern Europe ; they blow from the Great Desert at certain periods, and are generated by the action of a tro- pical sun on its extensive and heated surface. But little is known of the mineral productions of Africa. Gold seems to be widely diflxised over Senegambia, Guinea, and Mo- zambique ; it is obtained both from the sand of rivers and the soil of alluvial valleys and plains. Salt exists in various places in the Great Desert, Abyssinia, &c., and it forms an important part of the inland traffic of Africa; iron is found in Morocco, Bambarra, and other regions ; silver in the territory of Tunis, and copper in various quarters. The force of vegetation in many parts of Africa is very re- markable, and seems as if designed by Providence to compensate for the sterility of its desert regions. The baobab, or monkey bread-tree, attains gigantic dimensions ; it has a trunk often of 60 or 70 feet high and 30 in diameter, and its branches form a circle sometimes 4.50 feet in circumference. The juice of the fruit is highly beneficial in some dangerous kinds of fever, and the leaves, powdered, are mixed by the natives with their food for the purpose of checking profuse perspiration, and also as a medicine in some disorders. The date and oil-palm are both useful productions : the fruit of the former, on the borders of the Great Desert and in 'M ■*' V! imed myste- Orange, and r extent than Snowy moun- on in Central in connexion I west. The Lupata chain very existence 1 as attaining lents have yet mostly within extends even . Some parts e in the world, nguebar, have Europeans and ; that they find sin of Barbary Jimoom of Asia from the Great action of a tro- Africa. Gold linea, and Mo- •rs and the soil places in the )ortant part of ;co, Bambarra, I, and copper in |ica is very re- [ to compensate lb, or monkey jnk often of 60 ;s form a circle of the fruit is and the leaves, for the purpose jdicine in some \\ productions: Desert and in AFRICA. 509 the Oases, supply the inhabitants with the chief part of their sus- tenance : and the produce of the oil-palm has attained such im- portance, that 8000 tons of British shipping are employed in its exportation from the estuaries of the Niger alone. The shea, or vegetable butter-tree, and the lotus, are useful and curious products ; the farinaceous berry of the latter, when pro- perly prepared, resembles in taste the sweetest gingerbread, and furnishes a highly nutritious food. The cassava, yam, and ground- nut, are cultivated in various quarters. The banana, cocoa-nut, orange, lime, tamarind, and pine-apple, are the principal fruits of the tropical regions. The acacias, dragons- blood, and gum-sanda- rach trees, furnish the valuable gums of commerce. The cultivated grains, Indian-corn, caffre-corn, wheat, barley, and rice, grow in those places where the soil is adapted for them, and the dhourra is extensively raised in the dry sandy regions. A considerable part of Barbary, the lower valley of the Nile, the coasts of Guinea, and many of the lately explored districts of Soudan, appear to be highly distinguished for their fertility. Africa excels all the other divisions of the earth in the number and bulk of its animals ; of these, the quadrupeds of burden are highly important. The Arabian camel, or dromedary, is now spread over all the northern and central parts of this region, and is invaluable for its services in crossing the extensive and arid deserts which cover so great a portidn of its surface north of the equator. The horses and asses of Barbary, those of the Bedouins and of Egypt, yield in no respect to the finest Arabs either in beauty of form or spirit. The first of these races was introduced into Spain during the ascendency of the Moorish power in that country, and from it the noble Spanish breed of modern times is descended. On the west coast, south of the Great Desert, the ass supplies the place of the camel, being extensively used in carrying on the inland trade of the country. Of horned cattle there are many different varieties. The n)ost remarkable are the Sanga, or Galla oxen of Abyssinia, with im- mense horns nearly four feet in length, and a kindred race in Bor- nou, the horns of which measure upwards of two feet in circum- ference at the base, and yet scarcely weigh two pounds apiece. The most singular variety of sheep is the broad-tailed kind, whose tail grows so fat and heavy, that it is said they are fre- quently obliged to be supported on little wheel-carriages. This animal is common in Barbary, at the Cape of Good Hope, and in different parts of the continent ; other varieties of the sheep, and also several of the goat, abound in various quarters ; the latter are common in many parts bordering on the Great Desert, feeding on the dry aromatic herbs which are in places thinly scattered. 43* ifm PM 111. 1 Pi m :i; li! ill m '''■\lt'-'^^ 510 AFRICA. !' ■ . . . ■ P ^ [;■/■■ /' ' . ' ■ ■■'■■■•<■.■.• i-^ f ■ r ! One of ilio most peculiar of the animals of this region is the chimpanzee, of which it is thought more than one variety exists in Africa. It approaches much nearer to the human form thfin the orang-outang of Malacca, Borneo, and Sumatra. Some of the varieties of baboons attain a very considerable stature, and from their great strength and malicious disposition, are much dreaded by the negroes ; and they have even been known lo de- stroy human beings. Carnivorous and ferocious animals are extremely numerous in all parts of Africa. The lion, the panther, and the leopard, lurk in the vicinity of the rivers and fountains, to surprise the different species of antelopes and other animals ; but, unless pressed by hunger, these beasts rarely attack the inhabitants. The various species of hyenas are, properly speaking, African, one only being (bund in any other part of the world. They all live upon offal and carrion, are nocturnal in their habits, and nightly visit the towns and villages, where they prowl through the streets till morning. The striped hyena abounds in Northern and the spotted in Southern Africa. The true civet is found in a state of nature in difierent quarters, and great numbers of them are also domesticated and kept by the inhabitants for the sake of their perfume. Nearly allied to the civet, are the ichneumons. Of these there are four or five distinct species, which wage incessant war against the numerous serpents and other reptiles which infest every part of the country. The elephant occupies the first rank among the wild quadrupeds of this region. The African species, though long confounded with the Asiatic, is now well known to be distinct. These animals are hunted by the negroes for their teeth, which form the ivory of commerce, and constitute one of the most important articles of the trade of this region. They inhabit all the woody parts of Africa south of the Sahara, and are also found in Darfur. These huge creatures live in herds of from one hundred and fifty to two hun- dred individuals. They are not now employed in the service of man, although the ancient Egyptians undoubtedly obtained war elephants from Ethiopia. The African rhinoceros, like that of Sumatra, has two horns, but is distinguished from the latter by having no front or incisor teeth. The horns, as in the East, are highly esteemed for their supposed medicinal virtues, and are also used by the natives as battle-axes. The hippopotamus is entirely an African quadruped, being found in all the large rivers and lakes south of the Great Desert, and appears to have occupied the same countries from the earliest ages. He delights in being in the water, and stays there as willingly as upon land. • I s i 'I ts:, I L'i' AFRICA. 511 •egion is the irariety exists in form thfin a. Some of stature, and n, are much mown to de- r numerous in leopard, lurk je the ditTerent is pressed by king, African, Id. They all ir habits, and wl through the , Northern and bund in a state •s of them are le sake of their ineumons. Of wage incessant les which infest vild quadrupeds lonfounded with ese animals are n the ivory of t articles of the parts of Africa These huge fty to two hun- the service of obtained war has two horns, front or incisor 3emed for their the natives as ican quadruped, th of the Great iintries from the and stays there The zebra, the dow, and the quagga, abound in nearly all the known parts of Central and Southern Africa. These beautiful animals, equally remarkable for the symmetry of their forms, the rapidity of their course, and the regularity of their colours and markings, associate in large herds upon the open plains, and arc the frequent prey of the lion. The camelopard, or giraffe, is peculiar to Africa, and is found from the Orange river as far as Nubia, although it is said there is a difference between those of the north and the south. Two or three species of the wild buffalo inhabit the woods and marshy grounds of the interior. The bos cafler, or wild buffalo of the Cape, has the base of the horns extending all over the top of the head and forehead, in the manner of a helmet. He is a savage, dangerous animal, and is much dreaded by travellers. Antelopes and gazelles are numerous. Of the former there are more than sixty different species. Multitudes of these fall a prey to the lion, the leopard and panther. Among the animals which inhabit the seas and coasts of Africa is the lamantin, which frequents the mouths of the great rivers on the Atlantic and Indian Ocean, and feeds upon the aquatic plants that it can reach along the shores. It was this creature which, from the habit of raising itself half out of the water, especially when in the act of suckling its young, gave origin to the fable of the mermaid, by which name it is oAen mentioned by ancient African voyagers and travellers. The most peculiar and important of the birds of Africa is the ostrich. It abounds in all the desert sandy regions, and is a very cautious and shy animal ; it is hunted by men on horseback, who chase it in succession until the bird is worn down with fatigue. The wild Hottentots of Southern Africa also kill it by disguising themselves in imitation of the ostrich, and thus approach siiffi- ciently near to shoot it with their poisoned arrows. This bird, when full-grown, is from seven to nine feet high, and weighs from 70 to 80 pounds. It is affirmed that it never drinks, but is, of all animals, the most voracious, swallowing lead, glass, metals, &c. The large feathers of the ostrich form a considerable article of trade from several parts of the continent. Similar to the ostrich in many of their habits, and even some- what in appearance, are the bustards, many different species of which inhabit the Great Karroo, and the arid plains of the south- ern districts. The Guinea-fowl, the only African bird adapted to the barn-yard, is found exclusively in this region. There are three or four distinct species ; they collect in flocks of 400 or 500, and frequent the underwood and bushes in the vicinity cf ponds and rivers. There are many species of partridges and ;:jl'-,r ■' ';'■ 1 i 1' '■:]':'', t i. :rl 512 AFRICA. >\' \ [v' tl", i-' .L 11 'i W : -If grouse, also water-fowl in abundance, on the rivers and lakes ; various species of owls, falcons, &c. The vultures, like the hyenas among the quadrupeds, are highly useful in consuming the otfal and carrion, which might otherwise taint the air, and produce disease. One of the most remarkable of the species is the secretary vulture, which may be not impio- perly described as an eagle mounted on the long naked legs of a crane. This bird i)reys exclusively on serpents, which it pursues on loot, and destroys in great numbers. The smaller birds of Africa comprise many species remarkable for the gaudiness and brilliancy of their plumage, or the singu- larity of their manners and economy. Of the former kind may be mentioned the innumerable varieties of parrots and parroquets, which, from the size of a sparrow, upwards to that of a raven, swarm in all the forests, and make the woods resound with their hoarse, unmusical screams. Of the latter, it will be sufficient to mention the honey cuckoo, and the little bird called the republican. The crocodile inhabits all the large rivers ol the tropical parts of Africa, and is still abundant in the Nile, below the first cata- ract. Different species of chameleons may be seen in various quarters, on every hedge or shrub; and the enormous python, a serpent thirty feet long, lurks in the fens and morasses. Among the venomous species are the asp, the dipsas, and the cerastes, or horned viper. In the south, the garter-snake, the puff-adder, and other species are employed by the Bushmen to poison their arrows. Of the insect tribes, Africa also contains many thousand dif- ferent kinds. The locust has been, from time immemorial, the proverbial scourge of this part of the world : scorpions, scarcely less to be dreaded than the noxious serpents, are very abun- dant ; and the zebub, or fly, one of the instruments employed by the Almighty to punish the Egyptians of old, is still the plague of the low and cultivated districts. The termites, or white ants, found along the coast of Guinea, are among the most singular of the insect tribes : they build conical houses, ten or twelve feet high, which are divided into apartments, with magazines for pro- visions, arched chamiicrs, and galleries of communication. The processes of agriculture and manufacture are, in Africa, performed generally in a rude and imperfect manner. The soil, however, is cultivated to a considerable extent ; and, owing to its fertility, the earth renders back to the cultivator the seed increased an hundred fold. Some coarse fabrics are made, particularly those of cotton- cloth, mats, and articles of leather ; and gold ornaments are very widely diffused : a few rude implements of iron are manufactured t; 3 ,1 " AFRICA. 513 and lakes; , arc highly il otherwiso remarkable I not inipio- :ecl legs of a :h it pursues 1 remarkable •r the singu- sr kind may i parroquets, of a raven, nd with their 2 sufficient to le republican, tropical parts he first cata- jn in various ous python, a }ses. Among 16 cerastes, or le puff-adder, o poison their thousand dif- imemorial, the (ions, scarcely •e very abun- i employed by ill the plague white ants, )st singular of or twelve feet azines for pro- ation. ire, in Africa, er. The soil, d, owing to its seed increased ose of cotton- Tients are very manufactured )r in Western Africa, in Soudan, and also amongst the Boshuanns. In Barbary, the common mechanic arts are understood only in a limited degree; but in Egypt, the introduction of the improvements of Christian Europe has already rendered the people of that country greatly superior to the surrounding Asiatic and African nations. The maritime commerce of Africa is carried on principally with the European colonies and the states to which they belong ; on the east coast by the Arabs, and from that of Berbora, with the Hin- doos ; and at the port of Alexandria in Egypt, a considerable trade with various nations of Europe exists. Tlie chief com- merce of the interior is performed by caravans, consisting of numbers of camels and merchants, which cross the Great Desert in various directions. By these perilous journeys the traders pro- cure considerable quantities of gold, ivory, and slaves : of these unfortunate beings, it is estimated that 20,000 are annually con- veyed across the desert and distributed over Barbary, Egypt, Turkey, and Persia. They serve generally as domestic slaves, and are, on the whole, mildly treated. A severe" lot awaits those who, from the western shores of Africa, are carried off by European navigators : after sufFcr'ng through the passage, hardships which prove fdtal to a large proportion, they are sold chiefly in Brazil and the West Indies, where they are employed in the labours of the field. It is calculated that during the flourishing period of the slave-trade, 80,000 were annu- ally transported across the Atlantic. Great Britain and the United States were form.erly deeply engaged in this traffic, but both na- tions have, some time since, abolished it. France afterwards fol- lowed the example; and thus the export of slaves from the north- ern part of Guinea has in a great measure been prevented, though the numbers still procured from the southern shores of Benin and Congo, by the Spaniards and Portuguese, are but uttle diminished. In various parts of Soudan and Senegambia, a traffic between the coast and the interior is kept up by means of coffles, formed of large droves of asses ; and many articles are also carried for hundreds of miles on the heads of slaves, both male and female. A limited intercourse with the countries on the Niger takes place, by means of native boats, with the Euro[)ean traders, at the mouths of the various estuaries of that stream. The chief part of the population of Africa is composed of ne- grocbi, v/ho, though inferior in arts and attainments to the other races, are generally good-natured and hospitable. Like all bar- barous nations, they are fond of war, and cruel to their enemies ; but their domestic intercourse is friendly, and they receive with kindness the unprotected stranger. They are led away with fan- J 'ft ; t In I ..::p m W IN 'it 3 w^ f'l I' . 514 AFRICA. h.-H;l\ ¥''"■ ■ ! ' wt ' t , If : . *^ i;;i'-': p; ;. . v^ , M ■ ■ . ■ ■ l^'''i ' : i\ tastic superstitions, charms, witchcraft, ordeal, &c. ; but these errors never impel them to hate or persecute those who entertain the most opposite belief. Their external aspect is well known, being marked by a deep black colour, flat nose, thick lips, and coarse hair like wool. The next great division of the people of Africa are the Moors, including the descendants of the original Arab invaders, J'.nd those whom conquest and religion have assimilated with them. They reacii the banks of the Senegal and the Niger, which may be con- sidered as the boundary of the two races, though they mingle and alternate on the opposite sides, where sometimes one, sometimes another, hold the chief sway. These people are deeply embrowned by the influence of the sun, but have not the least of the negro colour or aspect. Tiie Moors are a rough i, ving race, keeping numerous herds, chiefly of carneis, with which they perform immense journeys through the most desolate tracts, and across the greatest breadth of the continent. Africa is indebted to them for all the literature she possesses ; at least few of the negroes can read or write, who have not learned from them. The Moors, however, at least all that inhabit the desert, are a race peculiarly unamiable. A furious bigotry, joined to the most embittered hatred ot the Christian name, renders them mortal foes to every European traveller who falls into their power. Of the subordinate races, the Fellatas of Soudan, and the Fou- lahs of Senegambia, supposed to be the same people, have been, for some time, acquiring power and distinction in Central and Western Africa. The Somaulies of the east coast are but little known ; they are represented to be of mild and peaceable habits, and are engaged in traffic and commerce. The Caffres and the Hottentots of Southern Africa are also peculiar races, both pasto- ral in their habits ; the former are often engaged in war, and are amongst the most formidable in battle of the native tribes. The Mahomedan and Pagan are the systems of religion most prevalent in this part of the world ; the former has been estab- lished over all Northern Africa, and also in Soudan and on the east coast. The priests, or moolahs, of this faith have great in- fluence with the natives, teaching the children to read the Koran, &c., and converting many of the Pagan inhabitants to the religion of the false prophet. Among the Pagan negroes the most disgust- ing Fetishism prevails, demanding from many of its votaries human sacrifices, and the most disgusting and foolish rites and observances. The population of Africa has been variously estimated by dif- ferent writers at from 50,000,090 to 150,000,000; but, as nothing ? ■ ■■■;'/ ■ ". ■- ■' '.■'I ■■ ■.('■ . ■4 . ^:^ -'f if ■ BARBARY 515 "■■'., ; but thesc! ho entertain well known, ick lips, and e the Moors, rs, i>.nd those hem. They may be con- y mingle and te, sometimes y embrowned of the negro nerous herds, ;nse journeys eatest breadth the literature or write, who jr, at least all ble. A furious Christian name, 3ller who falls 1, and the Fou- pie, have been, n Central and st are but little iaceable habits, Jaffres and the :es, both pasto- n war, and are tribes. , religion most las been estab- lan and on the have great in- •ead the Koran, s to the religion le most disgust- of its votaries bolish rites and stimated by dif- ; but, as nothing but vague conjecturo can be employed in their calculations, even in relation to those parts of the continent best known and explored, it is evident that these ci ..not be regarded in any other light than as a mere expression of opinion. The following estimate forms a medium between the highest and lowest : Sq. M. Population. Sq.M. Popiilatinn. Barbury 570,000. . . 10,000,000 Uppe.- Guinea. 280,000.. . r).5Ut),()(X> Kgypt 180,000. . . 2,500.000 Lower Guinea.. 260,000.. . 5,.'JIK),U«0 JNubia 320,000. . . bOOfiOO SouthernAfrica 480,000 . . . 1,500,000 Abyssinia 280,000 . . . 3,000,000 ]':astern Africa. 600,000 . . . 3,000,000 C;reat Desert. . . 2,600,000 . . . 300,000 Central Africa.. 3,830,000 . . . 13,000,000 Bergoo,Darfur,&c540,000 . . . 1,200,000 African Islands. 210,000 .. . 3,0(' ,000 Senegambia.... 850000 . . . 7,000,000 Total 11,(X)0,(J00 .. . 57,000,000 BARBARY. Barbary is that portion of Northern Africa stretching eastward from the Atlantic Ocean, including Morocco, Algiers, Tunis, and Tripoli. It extends about 2100 miles froni east to west, and is traversed by the Atlas Mountains, of which the loftiest pinnacles ' iB above the plains of Morocco to the height of 11,400 feet ; in Algiers and Tunis, however, tliey seldom exceed 3000 or 4000 feet; and in the territory of Tripoli, gradually subside to that flat, sterile surface which characterizes Northern Africa. The rivers are all unimportant, none of them, probably, being more than 200 miles in their length of course. The principal are the Tensift, Morbeya, and Seboo ; these flow into the Atlantic Ocean, and the Moulouia, Shillef, and Mejerdah, or Bagrada, into the Mediterranean Sea. Between the mountains and the sea, there is a tract of well-wa- tered, fertile country, from 50 to 100 miles in width: this is the must productive and best inhabited portion of Barbary. South of the mountains, and l«tween them and the Great Desert, is another tract, dry and sandy, called the Beled el Jerid, or Land of Dates. In Barbary, vegetation is vigorous and abundant ; all the fruits of Southern Europe come to perfection ; the excellence of the olive is particularly noted; the vine flourishes, though the reli- gious system of the natives forbids them from converting the grape into wine, even for exportation. Wheat and barley are the grains usually cultivated, and, notwithstanding the imperfection of the cultivation, such is th'* fertility of the soil and the want of a manu- facturing population to consume its produce, that a large surplus accumulates in every State, which forms, when permitted, the sta- ple article of export. ■I ' 61G AFRICA. 7,1. '■ it I 1: : .1 • ■ ' ■ if i: 1 .< fc;;:i V . EV. f-l!. The trade of Barbary is limited ; the exports consisting chiefly in the raw produce of the soil. In ancient times the African coast formed the granary of the Roman Empire ; and its corn continued to find a ready market in iiJouthern Europe till its exportation was prohibited by the absurd policy of all the Barbary States ex- cept Tunis : even there, it is loaded with heavy imposts. The most active commerce of these States is that by the cara- vans with the interior country, south of the Great Desert. Tripoli sends hers by Fczzan to Bornou and Houssa ; Tunis, by Gadames and Tuat, to Timbuctoo ; Morocco across the broadest part of the desert to the same city, and the countries on the Senegal. Into these regions the caravans carry salt, with various articles of Eu- ropean manufacture. The Barbary States, particularly Algiers, Tunis, and Tripoli, were formerly engaged in piracy : but the first is now a subject State ; the others possess but few ships, and their naval strength is almost entirely prostr?>.t jd. In their piratical e.-ioeditions the Bar- bary corsairs exhibited much courage and fierceness, and their cap- tives were generally reduced to the most galling slavery. The subjects of nearly all the maritime powers of Europe, and also the citizens of the United States, were once, more or less, exposed to their depredations. The government of these countries is formed on the Turkish model ; being, for the most part, a pure despotism, in which but little trace of order, liberty, or regular authority, exists. The only check on the tyranny and cruelty of the rulers is found in the tumultuary sway of a brutal and licentious soldiery, who, par- ticularly in Algiers, set up, deposed, and massacred the chief ma- gistrate at pleasure. In Tunis and Tripoli, some amelioration has of late taken place ; but in Morocco, the sovereigns of modern times are, if possible, more absolute and cruel than formerly. The Moors, Arabs, and Berbers, are the principal races that inhabit this part of Africa. The first-named reside chiefly in the cities and towns : they are generally of middle stature, and of va- rious shades of complexion. Like all the other inhabitants of Bar- bary, they are rigid Mahomedans, and hate and despise the Chris- tians and Jews most heartily. Those among the Moors who do not labour, are excessively indolent, and averse to exertion ; and have hardly any employ- ment or amusement except riding on horseback, and playing chess. In the former, they exhibit considerable skill ; and the feats of some individuals are rather remarkable. The most conspicuous object in the dress of the Moors, and also of the Arabs, is the haick, a large piece of woollen cloth, five or six yards long, and one and a half wide, folded loosely round the body, and fastened ■ ir-W :ii^ BARBARY. 617 jting chiefly Llrican coast :n continued exportation ■y States ex- its. by the carn- isert. Tripoli by Gadames St part of the megal. Into rticles of Eu- and Tripoli, now a subject val strength is tions the Bar- and their cap- slavery. The 3, and also the 3SS, exposed to n the Turkish , in which but , exists. The 3rs is found in lery, who, par- the chief ma- nelioration has wns of modern brmerly. pal races that e chiefly in the ure, and of va- ibitants ofBar- spise the Chris- are excessively y any employ- i playing chess, jd the feats of 3st conspicuous e Arabs, is the .ards long, and y, and fastened with a girdle round the waist. On the head, the Moors wear a pointed red cap, with a turban or sash wrapped around it. Amcng theso people, the women are considered beautiful in pro- portion to their bulk; and corpulency is, in the female sex, anx- iously promoted. _ Jhey dye their hair, feet, and finger-nails, of a yellowish colour, with an herb called henna, and load themselves with rings and bracelets, both on the arms and ancles. In all these ccuntries, the women, os among other Mahomedan nations, live in strict retirement, and never appear in public without being closely veiled. The Arabs of Africa are, no doubt, originally the same people as those of Arabia. In Barbary, they overspread all the unoccu- pied fertile plains, keeping large herds of camels, horses, cattle, &c. ; cultivate the ground, and, when one spot is exhausted, they remove to another. They are oflen engaged in war with each other, with the Berbers, or the forces of the states that exact tribute from them. Their encampments are formed of tents, pitched in a circle, hence called douars : each of these is under the sway of its own sheik ; and the union of a number of encampments is go- verned by an emir. The people, like all the Arab tribes, are equally noted for robbery and hospitality, oflen plundering those who had previously been the objects of their bounty. They own but a nominal subjection to the government of the states in which they reside. The Berbers inhabit the Atlas mountains, and the country called the Beled el Jerid. They speak a peculiar language, and are supposed to be the descendants of the ancient Numidians. The Shelluhs of the southern Atlas, the Errifl, bordering on AU giers, and the Kabyles, in that state, are all tribes of this race. Those of the Atlas live chiefly by hunting, tilling the ground, and raising bees : they are mostly independent, elect their own chiefs, and have, what is rare in Africa, a republican form of govern- ment. These people are athletic and. hardy ; they are dexterous marks- men with the musket, and their valour, and the rugged nature of the country, render them almost invincible. In their contests with the Moorish states, they occasionally descend to the level country, and carry their inroads to the very gates of Morocco, and other large cities. The Tuaricks and Tibboos, of the Great Desert, and the people of Nubia, are believed to be all branches of the same race. The next class of inhabitants are the Jews : of these there are great numbers in Barbary, who are much despised, taxed, and abused, yet are permitted to engross almost every species of trade and commerce. They coin the money, and are also the principal 44 r I. - ,i!.ii; I ■ ■ ' m ; y; !:■: !i [•:;■ ; m;' 516 AFRICA. mecimnics. Many ot* thom acquire great wealth, which they carefully conceal, lest their rapacious rulers should rob them of it. Besides these races, there are many negroes, brought originally from interior Africa. In Morocco, they form the standing army of that empire, and the body-guard of the sovereign. Barbary was much more populous and flourishing in ancient than in modern times. Carthage, Numidia, and Mauritania, were all, particularly the former, renowned and important states. The Carthaginians, celebrated for their extensive commerce, were, for a time, the merchants and traders of the ancient world. Rendered illustrious by their rivalry with Rome, and their mighty struggle for universal empire, the people of Carthage were not less distin- guished by their glorious fall. These districts, being incorporated into the Roman empire, became noted for their fertility. Conquered aflerwards in succession by the Vandals and the Saracens, the aspect and character of the provinces of Northern Africa became completely changed. Fez, and other cities, were, for a time, celebrated capitals, and distin- guished for their -learning and civilization ; by degrees, however, they lost their light and intelligence, and finally, under the blight- ing influence of bigotry and superstition, the whole region has become rude, ignorant, and barbarous. EXTENT AND POPULATION OF THE BARBARY STATES. Sq. M. Population. Morocco 190,000 . . 6,000,000 Algiers 90,000 . . 1 ,500,000 Tunis 50,000 . . 1,000,000 Sq. M. Population. Tripoli, &c. .. 100,000 . . 600,000 Beled el Jerid 140,0 00 . . 900.00 Total 570,000 . - 10,000,00 ■ft',,' ■■■.' ■ I if 1). ^1 \ , 7 - ■ •i'?:' ', ■r ■ ■ 'ii 'I MdL.1. fir 'l MOROCCO. The empire of Morocco occupies that part of Africa which lies nearest to Europe. It is the largest and most important part of the Barbary States, and has two sea-coasts ; one extending along the Mediterranean Sea, the other along the Atlantic Ocean. The territories of this State extend about 800 miles in length, and from 200 to 300 in breadth, and contain an area of 190,000 square miles. The loftiest part of the chain of the Atlas mountains runs par- allel to the coasts of Morocco, leaving an intermediate plain, finely watered, and not surpassed in natural fertility by r.ny part of the globe. Beyond the range of the Atlas, however, the empire in- cludes a more arid region, named Tafilelt, yielding the finest dates in the world, and rearing a breed c f goats whose skin affords the materials for the fine Morocco leather. HARBARY. dlU which Ihoy ib them of it. jht originally anding army ig in ancient uritania, were states. The srce, were, for rid. Rendered ighty struggle ot less distin- jmpire, became succession by jaracter of the hanged. Fez, als, and distin- rrees, however, ider the blight- ole region has V STATES. I M Population. 000 . . 600,000 000 .. 900,000 OOT.. 10,000,00 frica which lies iportant part of extending along ic Ocean. The ength, and from 90,000 square ntains runs par- iate plain, finely i.ny part of the , the empire in- f the finest dates 'skin affords the In the southern part of this territory, and Ijordering on the Great Desert, is the district of Suse, a fruitful and well-settled country, over which the Emperor pretends to assume authority which is not, however, recognized by the people. It contains a number of little walled towns and villages, under the control of petty chiefs, who are frequently at war with each other, end also with the Moors and the Arabs of the desert. Spain possesses, on the coast of the Mediterranean, the fortified towns of Ceuta, Mellila, and Penon de Velez, but without any ter- ritory attached to them ; and this is now the only memorial of the long and deadly wars waged between the two nations. Industry and commerce have, in this empire, a very limited range. Some hides, goat-skins, olive-oil, almonds, ostrich- feathers, &c., are shipped from Mogadore, which is the only port at which foreigners are permitted to irade. The usual traffic of the Bar- bary States is carried on from Morocco with Interior Africa. The most important manufacture is that of the leather, which bears the name of the country. It is noted for its fine and durable colour, which Europeans are unable fully to imitate. The government of this State is a pure despotism ; and every right and privilege enjoyed by the people, depends upon the mere will and caprice of the sovereign. The emperors of Morocco claim the crown as descendants of Mahomed, and seek to increase the dignity of the throne by assuming the character of prophets and saints, which, however, they do not consider inconsistent with the most unbounded indulgence of cruelty and sensuality. Some of these princes have been among the most bloody and remorse- less despots on record. Hence, in consequence of their tyranny, insurrections and appeals to arms, especially by the remote moun- tain tribes, are of frequent occurrence. Morocco, the capital, is situated on a very extensive plain, above which rises one of the loftiest ranges of the Atlas. The mosques are numerous, and several of them present striking specimens of Arabian architecture, particularly that called El Koutouben, the tower of which is 220 feet high. The palace forms an oblong of 1500 by 600 yards, divided into a number of inclosures, where, surrounded by gardens, are the pavilions of the sovereign, his principal officers, and ladies. Fine gardens surround the city, and spacious aqueducts, conveying water from the mountains, twenty miles distant, bear testimony to a superior state of the arts in former times. The inhabitants are estimated at from 70,000 10 100,000 in number. Fez is situated in the northern part of the empire, in a fine, fer- tile district, and surrounded by numerous groves and orchards. It is a place of high celebrity, and ranked long as the metropolis I 111 riirlSlh I 520 AFRICA. ^4, -.1 • of Western Africa. This city was founded about the end of tho eighth century, and rose to great magnitude and distinction. Its mosques, schools, and baths, were very celebrated. This place is now much decayed, and presents a singular mixture of splen- dour and ruin. It, however, still possesses some remains of the sciences which formerly rendered it illustrious; but they are nearly confined to the Koran and its commentators, a slight tincture of grammar and logic, and some very imperfect ostronomical obser- vations. The population is estimated at 80,000. Mequinez has risen to importance by having been made the occasional residence of the sovereign. The imperial treasury in this city is reported to contain money and jewels to the amount of $50,000,000. The inhabitants are said to be more polished and hospitable, and the females handsomer, than in the other cities of Morocco : population, 60,000. Mogadoro, the chief emporium of Morocco, was founded in 1760, by the emperor Sidi Mahomed, who spared no pains in raising it to importance. Being composed of houses of white stone, it makes a fine appea.^nce from the sea; but the interior presents the usual gloom of Moorish cities, and is chiefly enlivened by the residences of the European merchants and consuls. The country round is almost a desert of sand ; water is scarce, and provisions must be brought from the distance of several miles. The popula- tion is reckoned at about 10,000. Saffee, a very ancient town, with a fine harbour, though in a barren country, was the chief seot of the commerce with Europe, till the preference of the emperor transferred it to Mogadore: population, 12,000. Farther north, on the opposite sides of a small river, are the important towns of Salleo and Rabat. Sallee, once the terror of the seas, whence issued such bands of pirates, is now still and Mlh- less. What remains of its commerce has been mostly transferred across the river to Rabat, or New Sallee. This place, when viewed from without, presents a picturesque grouping of minarets, palm- trees, ruined walls, and old mosques. The town has still some activity, and the markets are well supplied : population, 18,000. Laraclw' was once a flourishing European and Christian town ; but \\tt hurches are now converted into mosques. It has been made *t«e imperial arsenal, and is very strong towards the sea. Tanj^ier, on tie straits, derives its chief importance from the per- missir^ granted by the emperor to supply Gibraltar with provi- sions, and rom the residence of European consuls. Tetuan, the only ,'vt with! a the Straits of Gibraltar, is allowed to carry on some :tercourse with the English, whose vessels oAen take in supplies there oi their way up the Mediterranean. it ■ V- I ■:ft,l!' 1) A K U A U Y ALGIERS, OR ALGRRIA. 5^1 Au/iBRs (now called Algeria by the French), once the most ])Owerful and enterprising naval state in Africa, and the torror of tiiu people of Southern Europe, has l)Ccome a colonial appendage of the kingdom of France. It embraces a considerable territory, extending along the northern coast of the Mediterranean Sea for 700 miles, with a breadth estimated at from M)0 to 150. This region is greatly distinguished for natural fertility. With the exception of some arid and rocky plains, it consists of valleys covered with rich pastures, fitted for the best kinds of European grain, blooming with the orange and the myrtle, and producing olives, figs, and grapes, of peculiar excellence and size. Yet the indolence of the people, the oppression of the government, the want of roads and interior communications, cause three-fourths of the country to bo left uncultivated. The trade, before the French invasion, was almost entirely in the hands of the Jews, and consisted in the export of rose-water, prepared skins, baskets formed of palm-leaves, &c., and of some oil, wax, fruits, and wool. The Algerines took in return light cloths, glass, toys, fire-arms, and powder. The inhabitants of the maritime towns of Algiers, include French and other Europeans, Moors, Jews, &c. The interior districts are in the possession of the Arabs ; and the mountains of the Atlas are inhabited by a hardy and brave race of men, called Kabyles, who belong to the Berber nation. The late government of Algiers was a tumultuary and ill-regu- luted mil il wry despotism. The army, composed of about 15,000 Turl's recruited from the meanest classes in the ports of the Lcv}««»i, ong domineered over the country. This body, at short ini«TV8uI(s, strangled the Dey, electing in his stead the boldest and Sravcst of their number. The corsairs, or pirates, formed a kind <^' separate republic, carrying on their barbarous trade under the sanction of the princx;, who received a large share of the slaves :^nd booty. These marauders, in 1815, suffered a severe chastisement from the American fleet; and from the English in 1816. Again, after they had for some time set the French at defiance, that nation, in 1830, fitted out a formidable expedition, by which Algiers was en- tir(!ly subjugated. The Dey was dethroned and banished, and the country appears now likely to remain a permanent colony of France. The continued hostility, however, of the Arabs and Kabyles of the interior, renders it probable that but little advantage will accrue to the conquerors for at least a considerable period. 44* 1 P y\ ^1 \S ;i ■ i j , 1, ■■ I'' 1 1 ^(1 r K' f I' 1 ' 1 'l % 1 ■"1 i 1 522 AFRICA. .-*' ' ?■'-■•»<•-: M' m-:r ■■ ,5l('.'i! k;V''. ^ , ■■,■ * X ■ Algiers, the capital, is built on the declivity of an eminence, facing the Mediterranean, and rising by successive stages above each other, with loftier hills behinJ it; it makes thus a magnificent appearance. On entering the city, however, all this beauty dis- appears, and it is found to be a labyrinth of steep, narrow, and dirty lanes. There are several splendid edifices, particularly the palace of the late Dey, and the principal mosques. The barracks are also fine structures, adorned with fountains and marble col- umns ; and the naval arsenal is spacious and commodious. The bagnios, or the quarters formerly occupied by the slaves, are huge but gloomy and dirty edifices. Algiers contains about 2.5,000 inhabitants, of whom 5000 are Europeans. The French expedition captured here 10,000,000 dollars in money, besides an ample supply of ships, artillery, and ammunition. The fortifi- cations towards the sea are very strong, but on the land side they are by no means formidable. In the western quarter of Algeria, the chief place is TIemsen, once the capital of a powerful kingdom, and still containing about 20,000 inhabitants, situated in a beautiful and finely watered dis- trict. Mascara, about a mile in circuit, on the face of a moun- tain which commands the view of a fertile and well-cultivated plain, is an agreeable but ill-built city. Oran, on the sea-coast, long a subject of contention between the Moors and the Spaniards, remained in possession of the latter people till 1792. It has a good harbour, and a population of 10,000 inhabitants. In the eastern part of this country is Constantine, supposed to contain about 15,000 inhabitants. It is boldly situated on a rock, precipitous on one side, where it overhangs the small stream of the Rummell. The surrounding country is fine. The site, how- ever, is distinguished by splendid monuments of antiquity ; and the ground in one place is entirely covered with the remains of broken walls, columns, and cisterns. This city was captured by the French in 1837. Bona was in modern times the chief settle- ment of the French African Company, which they lost during the revolutionary war. It derives consequence from the coral fishery carried on in its vicinity ; and the same cause gives value to La Cala and the neighbouring island of Tabarca, which were also long in possession of the French. p."'^'' / f-il' '<- m,. . -li'. '^: - ^ •( .■.,■- 1\ ;,.= j ■ 'T ■■■■■ •■ i 'I '^l-ii ',:iit TUNIS. Tunis is the most northern, and also the smallest, of the Bar- bary states: it occupies that part of Africa which approaches nearest to the Italian shores, being within 75 miles of the island BARBARY. 523 eminence, ages above magnificent beauty dis- arrow, and icularly the he barracks marble col- iious. The slaves, are itains about The French ney, besides The foriifi- xnd side they ! is Tlemsen, itaining about r watered dis- e of a inoun- vell-cultivated the sea-coast, the Spaniards, 92. It has a its. e, supposed to ted on a rock, lall ptream of The site, how- intiquity ; and lie remains of IS captured by [he chief settle- [ey lost during from the coral ise gives value la, which were 1st, of the Bar- Ich approaches Is of the island of Sicily. It extends from north to south about 300 miles, and from east to west 150. A considerable part of the country, particularly that section of it watered by the Mejerda, or Bagrada river, is highly fertile, and profusely covered with all the riches of culture and vegetation. The situation of Tunis, like the ancient Carthage, whose site it occupies, is favourable for commerce ; and the amount of trade in olives, wool, soap, and grain, is very considerable. The exporta- tion of the latter, absurdly prohibited by the other Barbary pow- ers, is allowed under a license from the Dey: there is also u considerable traffic with Interior Africa, for its staples of gold, ivory, ostrich feathers, and slaves. Tunis imports a variety of European goods, India stuffs, and colonial produce. There are some extensive manufactures carried on of velvets, silk stuffs, and the red caps generally worn in the Levant. The people of Tunis, though composed essentially of the same elements as those of Algiers, have imbibed a considerably greater share of polish and civilization : and, from their intercourse with foreigners, are less bigoted than in some other parts of Barbary. The ruler of this state was formerly a mere officer of the Turk- ish sultan; but Hamooda, the late Bey, succeeded in emanci- pating himself from this subjection in the year 1816. He estab- lished a regular administration of justice, and extended equal protection to all classes of his subjects, including Christians and Jews. Although the government is yet, in some respects, despotic and oppressive, yet, on the whole, its subjects are governed with more mildness than those of some of the other Barbary states. The city of Tunis, only ten miles south-west from the site of Carthage, and on the same spacious bay, possesses all the advan- tages which raised that city to such a height of prosperity. It is the largest place in Barbary, the population being estimated at 100,000. This city has entirely renounced its piratical habits, and applied itself to several branches of useful industry. Six miles to the westward is the Goletta, the harbour and citadel of Tunis, and the naval and commercial dep6t of the state. It is strongly fortified. Of the other cities of Tunis, the chief is Kairwan, founded by the Saracens, and long the capital of their possessions in Northern Africa. On the north coast, Porto Farini, near which are the ruins of Utica, and Bizerta, have both some trade in grain ; though the fine harbour of the latter is now so choked up as to allow only small vessels to enter. The chief towns on the coast reach- ing southward from Tunis, Monastir and Cabes, are both distin- guished by a flourishing modern trade, which gives to the one a ■S-' . 1^ ..' ■■ 't "Mil;! !1=.'mk 3 M. f. :'W!J M- ;il B' te 524 AFRICA. population of 12,000, and to the other of 20,000. Sfax carries on traffic on a smaller scale. Near El Jem are the remains of a magnificent Roman amphitheatre. fS'-, '■' m-i TRIPOLI. Tripoli is the most eastern and the least populous of the Bur* bary states. It consists chiefly of extensive desert plains, inter- spersed along the shore with occasional rich tracts of country. This state comprises a sea-coast of 800 miles, and, including Barca, its tributary, is 1300 miles in extent. The Gharian mountains, situated at from 40 to 50 miles inland from the capital, appear to be the eastern extremity of the Atlas. They are inhabited by a race of Arabs, who have, from remote antiquity, lived in caves under ground ; and a populous mountain might be passed over by a traveller, without suspecting that it was inhabited. This stale is the chief theatre of the intercourse with Bornou and Houssa, the most fertile countries in the interior of Africa. Fezzan, the great emporium of the caravan trade, as well as Barca and Augela, are tributary to the Bey ; and he possesses a powerful influence over the courts of Kouka and Soccatoo. This prince has shown a more enlightened spirit, a greater desire to cultivate intercourse with the European powers, and to introduce the im- provements of civilized life, than any other in Barbary. A singu- lar absence of that jealousy which usually actuates Mahomedan courts, has been displayed in the welcome given to the British expeditions of discovery, and the zeal displayed in promoting their objects. The authority of the Turkish government, as in the other Bar- bary states, was formerly established over Tripoli ; but the Bey Hamet the Great, in the commencement of the last century, re- lieved himself from the control of its officers in a manner truly barbarous. Having invited them to a feast, he caused them all to be seized and strangled ; and the Turkish soldiers being at the same time overpowered by his adherents, the sway of the Porte was en- tirely annihilated. This sovereign was active in promoting all the manufactures for which Tripoli was adapted, and inducing Euro- peans to settle in his territories. Tripoli, the capital, is built on a low neck of land, extending for some distance into the sea. The district in which it stands forms only an oasis ; and he who takes his departure from it in any direction, finds himself soon in the heart of the desert. It BARBARY. 525 Sfax carries remains of s of the Bar- plains, inter- i of country, lading Barca, ) miles inland of the Atlas. from remote lous mountain ing that it was 3 with Bornou rior of Africa. 3 well as Barca sses a powerful This prince }ire to cultivate reduce the im- ary. A singu- es Mahomedan to the British promoting their the other Bar- . ; but the Bey ist century, re- a manner truly jsed them all to 3ing at the same e Porte was en- romoting all the inducing Euro- land, extending which it stands arture from it in the desert. It thus cannot equal the other capitals of Barbary ; and its popula- tion is not supposed to exceed 25,000. Even this is supported rather by commerce and industry, than by the limited productions of the soil. Tripoli is not a handsome city ; yet its palace, and the generality of its mosques, have some beauty : and there is a triumphal arch, and several other interesting remains of antiquity. The fortifications, consisting of the castle and several batteries, possess some strength. The name of Tripoli is familiar to the American ear from having been the scene of the exploits of Preble, Decatur, and other gallant spirits, whose deeds shed a lustre over the infant navy of their country. To the eastward of the capital, and in its close vicinity, begins a dreary portion of the Great Desert of Africa : about 70 miles, however, to the eastward, the district of Lebda presents a more smiling appearance ; here, thick groves of olive and date trees are seen rising above the villages, and a great space is covered with luxuriant crops of grain. A similar country continues to Mesurata, to the east of which is also a plain singularly fertile. Mesurata carries on a manufactory of carpets, and a consider- able trade with Central Africa. At the termination of the rich plain on which it stands, commences the desolate expanse of the jj Syrtis. Stretching around the Gulf of Sidra, or Syrtis, for 400 miles, it presents an almost tenantless and desolate waste, except occasionally some little valleys or detached spots, traversed by the Arabs, with their flocks, herds, and moveable tents. Barca, the ancient Libya, is separated from the settled dis- tricts of Tripoli by the desert of the Syrtis. It was, in ancient times, noted for its fertility, but hardly any part of its soil is now cultivated. On this coast the Greeks founded Gyrene, one of their most flourishing colonies. At present, it is abandoned by all civilized and industrious nations ; and with the exception of a few poor villages, is occupied exclusively by the wandering Arabs with their flocks and herds. Bengazi, the ancient Berenice, is now only a miserable village. Every trace of the ancient city appears to have been buried under the sands of the surrounding desert. The range of valleys, how- ever, east of Bengazi, is singularly picturesque, their sides being, in many places, steep and rocky ; yet every cleft is filled with a brilliant vegetation. The ruins of Gyrene, which may be said to be a recent disco- very, form the most striking object in this remarkable region. There are the remains of a spacious amphitheatre, as well as nu- merous buildings and statues ; but the most striking feature consists in the Necropolis, or City of the Dead, consisting of groups of tombs, and sarcophagi, rich in ornaments and inscriptions, and presenting iiii'i 'A\\ Mb '!■' 'A m 526 AFRICA. the appearance of gay and splendid streets. Derne and Bengazi are (he only places in Barca at all deserving the name of towns. They are both the residence of governors dependent upon the pacha of Tripoli. The former was taken by General Eaton, an American, in the year 1805. Ipr "M W^'" * m W^' ^ ■»■ ■: m 1" d 1 ^*>''r t ,' 'J 1 BELED EL JERID, (OR D'JERID.) The Beled el Jerid, or Land of Dates, is a hot, sandy region, situated between the Atlas mountains and the Sahara, or Gntat Desert, and stretching from Morocco to Tripoli. The precise limits of the country are not accurately de6ned ; but it is probably about 8C0 miles in length, and from 160 to 200 in width. This territory is entirely in the interior ; and is known to the civilized world only from the descriptions of the natives ; never having been explored by any Christian traveller. The climate is extremely sultry : its rigours arc, however, some- what allayed by the coo! breezes from the Atlas ; yet, during the summer months, the hot winds of the Sahara render the heat al- most insupportable. Rain, as in the desert, seldom falls, but the dews are heavy, and refresh to some extent the thirsty soil. Water, though scarce near the surface, may be found in nearly all parts of this region, by digging to the depth of from 20 to 200 feet. This water, the Arabs say, springs up from the sea, under ground. That part of the country lying along the edge of the Great Desert, partakes of the same dry and barren character, but is in- terspersed with occasional fertile and well-cultivated spots. In the more northern districts, at the base of the mountains, the soil de- rives from the small streams poured down from the Atlas, a degree of fertility which enables the inhabitants to cultivate to some ex- tent, barley and other products. Dates are the great staple of the country, and abound in ail quarters ; they are of excellent quality, and are raised in such abundance as to form the chief food of the population. Camels, asses, and goats, are the principal ani- mals ; the first are employed to a considerable extent by the in- habitants, in the caravan trade across the Great Desert. The territory comprising the Beled el Jerid is not under the con- trol of any monarch, or general government, but is inhabited by a number of small Berber tribes, who are mostly independent and elect their own chiefs. The Marabouts, or priests, possess among these people great influence and consideration. Some tribes of Arabs live interspersed with the Berbers. But little is known of the manners, customs, or habits of the people ; but in these they are, no doubt, similar to the same races biir 'I::-!. id Bengasi s of towns. t upon the ral Eaton, ndy region, •a, or Grtiot rhe precise is probaWy /idth. Ti.;s the civilize:^ having been wever, sOkTie- ;t, during the : the heat al- falls, but the rsoil. Water, arly all parts to 200 feet. jnJer ground, of the Great ter, but is in- jpots. In the IS, the soil de- Ulas, a degree e to some ex- t staple of the ellent quality, chief food of )rincipal ani- ent by the in- sert. jnder the con* s inhabiled by dependent and jossess among ome tribes of habits of the the same races GREAT DESERT. 527 in other quarters. The towns are small, and but few in number ; they are nearly all inclosed by walls, and are inhabited, some by two, and others by three different tribes. They are, in conse- quence, divided by interior walls into distinct sections. Furious contest? often occur between the tribes in these towns, in which event, the gates connecting the different quarters are closed until peace is restored. Eghwaat, Tuggurt, Wargelah, Gardeiah, and Gadames are the principal towns.* GREAT DESERT. The Great Desert constitutes an immense range of territory, which occupies nearly one-fourth of the surface of Africa. It extends from the Atlantic Ocean to the Red Sea, and from Barbary to Soudan, and is more than 3000 miles in length, and from 800 to 1000 wide. This wide expanse of country, the most dreary and desolate on the face of the earth, forms an obstacle to the intercourse of na- tions, greater than is opposed by the widest oceans. Yet, the daring spirit of enterprise has induced human beings to occupy every extremity, or corner, in which subsistence could, by any means, be procured ; and they have formed routes, by which re- gular journeys may be performed across this vast and sterile r^ion. The term, Sahara, is usually applied to that part of the Great Desert lying westward of Fezzan ; to the eastward it is called the Libyan, and between the Nile and the Red Sea, the Nubian desert. The surface of the Great Desert does not consist entirely of one uniform plain of sand. In the most level tracts it has been blown into heaps, or hillocks, steep on one side, which remarkably in- crease both the dre-ary aspect of the region, and the difficulties with which the traveller has to contend. The horrible spectacle of the bones of animals and human beings which strew the ground, and sometimes crackle unexpectedly beneath the tread of the tra- veller or his camel, lends, at intervals, additional terrors to the scene. The most remarkable feature of the Great African Desert, con- sists in the oases. These are detached fruitful spots, over which springs, bursting forth amid the desert, diffuse a partial verdure * The most recent information respecting this country, has been commu- nicated by W. B. Hodgson, Esq. who was attached to the late American Consulate-General in Algiers. The towns inhabited by two or more tribes, have been denominated by that gentleman, " Bigential towns." P^ ■ ■ 1 Jliiilr..!*, m. 1.1*:, H o;;' fw. K-'- ffif-^ ■■■','? ' I-"''' ■' p wi'- V.'.,. ■■■ [iff: ^' f .:i' . • f (i . IV 528 AFRICA. and fertility. They are, in some instances, embellished with flowering shrubs of peculiar beauty ; whole tracts being covered with forests of acacia, from which rich gums distil, and with groves of the date and lotus, yielding sweet fruits and berries. The most important of these areFezzan, Tibesty, Bilmah, Agdass, Twat, and Tedeekeis. Fezzan is a large oasis, about 300 miles long and 200 broad, sometimes dignified with the title of kingdom. Nature has scarcely distinguished it from the surrounding desert : it is not irrigated by a stream of any importance. The inhabitants, however, raise up the water, which is always found at a certain depth under ground, and thus form a number of small oases, in which dates and some grain can be reared, and where a few asses and goats, and nu- merous camels, are fed. It is the inland trade that the inhabitants regard as the chief source of animation and wealth. Fezzan lying due south from Tripoli, and about midway between Egypt and Morocco, is the most central point of communication with Interior Africa. Through these resources, the country is enabled to maintain a population of about 70,000. The sultan is tributary to the bey of Tripoli. Mourzuk is the chief seat of commerce. It contains remains of ancient stone edifices ; but the present structures are poorly built of mud. Zuela, Gatrone, and Tegerhy, are small towns on the eastern frontier. Traghan, near Mourzuk, has a thriving manu- factory of carpets. Sockna, in the desert to the north, on the road from Tripoli, forms a caravan station. Tibesty, a country but little known, is situated south-west from Fezzan, and is separated from it by a desert of some extent. The people, rude and ferocious, have been subjected to the control of that state. There are a few small villages in Tibesty, of which Arna, Aboo, and Berdai, are the chief. Caravans sometimes pass through this country from Fezzan to Bergoo, or Waday. North-east from Fezzan, is Auguela, an oasis, known upwards of 2000 years ago to the Greeks and Egyptians, by almost the same name. The town is a dirty ill-built place, about a mile in circuit. Siwah, 200 miles to the eastward of Auguela, is a small but productive oasis, containing a town of the same name, with 2000 inhabitants. It is interesting from its vicinity to the ruins of the temple of Jupiter Ammon, so celebrated in ancient times, and to which Alexander the Great paid a visit. El Khargeh and El Dakhel, are fertile spots in the desert, lying about 200 miles westward from the Nile : the first contains a small town of about the same size as Siwah ; in its vicinity are the remains of magnificent temples, consisting of immense masses GREAT DESERT. 629 ^'l ■e- ished with ng covered , and with ,nd berries, ah, Agdass, 200 broad, has scarcely irrigated by /er, raise up ider ground, es and some lats, and nu- ,e inhabitants Iway between )mmunication »e country is The sultan is ins remains of re poorly built towns on the [iriving manu- ^h, on the road 5uth-we8t from ! extent. The the control of esty, of which jometimes pass aday. nown upwards by almost the bout a mile in uela, is a small me name, with ity to the ruins ancient times, he desert, lying irst contains a its vicinity are imense masses of stone. Siwah, El Khargeh, and El Dahkel, and a few still smaller oases, are under the dominion of the Pacha of Egypt. The moat interior part of the desert, between Fezzan and Cen- tral Africa, is occupied chiefly by two native tribes, the Tibhoos and Tuaricks^ who are both supposed to be tribes of the ancient Berber race : the former are found on the caravan route to Bor- nou ; the latter, more westerly, on that of Kano and Kashna. The Tibboos a?* nearly as black as negroes, but with a dif- ferent physiognomy. They subsist on the milk of their camels and the produce of a few verdant spots scattered amid the desert ; this they seek to aid by a little trade with Fezzan, and not unfre- quently by the plunder of the caravans. Bilmah, the Tibboo capital, is a small, mean town, built of earth : the other villages are still smaller and inferior. The Tuaricks are the most renowned of the desert tribes; they are tall, erect, and handsome, with an imposing air of pride and independence. Their skin is not dark, unless where deeply embrowned by exposure to the sun. They hold in contempt all who live in houses and cultivate the ground, deriving their subsist- ence from pasturage and plunder ; and they also carry off and sell as slaves, the inhabitants of the Tibboo villages and other tribes, with whom they are often at war. They possess, it is reported, the kingdom of Agdass, whose capital, of the same name, long celebrated as a commercial emporium, is supposed even to equal Tripoli ; but our information respecting it is very scanty. The tribes, occupying the western region of the desert, appear to be all Moors, or Arabs, originally from Morocco, and who have brought with them their usual pastoral, warlike, and predatory habits. They often meet with a rich booty in the vessels which sufter shipwreck on the dangerous shores of the Sahara, and which are always plundered with the most furious avidity : the only hope of the wretched crews is to be able to tempt their cap- tors by the promise of a high ransom, to be paid at Mogadore. These dreary regions are sometimes animated by the passage of the great caravans between Morocco and Timbuctoo. At Tisheet and Taudenry, are extensive mines of rock-salt, a product in great demand over all the populous regions of Central Africa. The trade in this article has given to Walet an importance nearly equal to that of Timbuctoo ; and Aroan, also, derives from it a popu- lation of about 3000. The principal tribes of the Western Desert are the Mongearts, Wadelims, or Woled Deleym, Woled Abousseba, Trasarts, Brak- naks, &;c. But the chief state occupied by the Moors, is Luda- mar, on the frontiers of Kaarta. The bigotry and ferocity of the 45 '< I 530 AFRICA. i0', Jf.n. I; >■■•: r i:. ■ race were strongly marked by Iho treatment which Mr. Park met with, during his captivity. Bonowni, their capital, is merely a large encampment of dirty tent-shaped huts. In the heart of the Great Desert, between Gadames and Tim- buctoo, is the district of Tuut, inhabited by a mixture of Arabs and Tuaricks, in no respect superior to the rest of the roving tribes. Aghably and Ain-el-Saleh, their chief towns, are frequented us caravan stations. Tedeckclsi, to the westward of the latter, is an oasis, similar in character to the others, and inhabited by people of the same description. That part of the Great Desert adjoining Suse, is, together with u portion of that district, governed by Sidi Ishim, an independent Moorish prince, who rules over a mixed population of Moors and negroes. His country has become a great dep6t for the trade be- tween Morocco and Timbuctoo. The little towns of Noon, Akka, and Tatta, are the chief caravan stations. m- If T,.L IL% ^11 REGION OF THE NILE. The Region or the Nile comprehends the north-eastern sec- tion of Africa, and includes the countries bordering on the river Nile, and watered and fertilized by that celebrated stream and its va- rious tributaries. It comprises Egypt, Nubia, Abyssinia, Kordofan, Darfur, Fertit, &c. This division of Africa, for an extent of more than twelve hun- dred miles southward from the Mediterranean Sea, consists almost entirely of a vast expanse of desert sand, occasionally interspersed with arid and rocky mountains, and also with a few rich and pro- ductive tracts. Farther to the south, it comprises the elevated and fertile, but barbarous region of Abyssinia; and also the unex- plored countries, extending to the westward, and traversed by the lofty chain called the Mountains of the Moon, or the Donga Moun- tains, which, though known 2000 years ago, are yet as much hid- den from the view of civilized men as at that distant period. The chief feature of this great region is the memorable Nile : that renowned stream, recalling the days of Moses and of Pharaoh, and the earliest dawnings of history, is formed of two principal branches, the Abawi, or Blue River, and the Abiad, or White River ; the former rises in the high fertile regions of Abyssinia ; and the other in the still more elevated Mountains of the Moon, descending from whence, and each flowing for hundreds of miles, they unite their waters in the territory of Sennaar, and form the celebrated river of Egypt. EG Y1»T. Ml One hundred and eighty miles lower down, this strecm receives its last tributary, the Tacazze, from the east, thence traversing,' n series of cataracts, and flowing through Nubia and Egypt, alter a course estimated altogether at 2800 miles, it pours its iertiiizing flood into tho Mediterranean Sea. The principal channels arc; the Rosctta and Damietta ; these inclose between them a rich trian- gular tract of country called the Delta, celebrated from the earliest times for its fertility and the profusion of its rich products. The Nile is remarkable for flowing the last 1600 mil(;s of its course without receiving the smallest accession to its stream ; and it is said to be larger and deeper 1800 miles from its mouth, than within 100 of that point. This river was adored by the ancient Egyptians as the tutelary deity of the country. When the waters began to rise, tho inhabitants celebrated the festivals called the Niloa, sacrificed a black bull to the divinity, strewed lotus flowers on the surface of the stream, and practised other profane and heathen rites in token of their deep sense of its importance and value. EGYPT. Egypt, now the most powerful and important state in Africa,, is distinguished for its early progress in the arts and sciences, and for the extensive place it fills in sacred and profane history. Its mighty pyramids, splendid obelisks, and the ruins of its ancient cities, all attest its former magnificence. Egypt is encompassed on the north and east by the Mediterra- nean and the Red Seas, and on the south and west by Nubia and the Great Desert. From the Mediterranean to Assouan it is 600 miles in length, and from the eastern oases of the desert to the Red Sea 300 or 400 miles in breadth, and contains an area of about 200,000 square miles. Of this great region only one-fourteenth or fifleenth part is ca- pable of being cultivated. That portion of Egypt bordering on the Mediterranean Sea consists of a highly productive alluvial plain upwards of 100 miles wide on the coast, and narrowing to the southward almost to a point ; this forms the renowned Delta, so noted in all ages for its fertility : from thence to the southern bounds of the c«mtry a strip of territory, four or five miles wide along the banks of the Nile, and inclosed on either side by low ridges of barren hills, comprises all the fertile soil of Upper Egypt ; beyond these rocky barriers the surface consists of wild, sandy wastes, the domain of rude wandering Arabs. The country is divided into Upper, Middle, and Lower Egypt. iiH ;,:•' fl. m m 532 AFRICA. IP it:'- M-; Wl ■ 1 ■ > s!^t I ■■■■ i-- ;• '. The fertility of Egypt depends almost entirely upon the floods of the Nile, in the lower part of its course that river is on a level with the districts which it intersects, and when swelled by the au- tumnal rains of Central Africa overflows them entirely ; and the ler* tilizing mud deposited by the waters of the river renders the land extremely productive. The totvns of the Delta are all built upon artificial mounds, consisting of huge masses of unburnt brick: sofne are very ancient ; and their formation is supposed to have been among the labours to which the Israelites were subjected by their Egyptian task-masters. During the overflow, intercourse be- tween these places is carried on by means of boats. Lake Mosris, so celebrated in ancient times as an artificial work, is, at present, called Birket Karoon, and is almost dried up. The district in which it lies, 50 milea south-west from Cairo, called the Fayoum, is one of the most fertile in Egypt. Of the other lakes the Natron, or Soda, is remarkable. The lakes Mareotis, Bour- los, and Mcnzalch, at the mouth of the Nile, are more properly inlets of the sea. Canals arc numerous in Egypt, some of which are the remains of similar works constructed more than 2000 years ago. The greater number are used merely for the purpose of irrigating the soil, and others for navigation. The most important of the latter, are Joseph's canal, on the west side of the Nile, 100 miles long and from 50 to 300 feet broad ; the Abou Meneggy canal, on the east side, also about 100 miles in length. The canal of Cleopa- tra, now the Mahmoudie, was, some years since, re-opened by Mahomed Ali : it is 60 miles long, 90 feet broad, and 18 feet deep. From 150,000 to 250,000 men were employed on this work for twelve months, during which period so little regard was paid to their health and comfort, that 30,000 of them are said to have perished. This canal connects Alexandria and Rahmanieh on the. Nile. The canals of Egypt, passing through a perfectly level country, are constructed without locks. The climate is in general hot, and is moderate in Lower Egypt only. The great heat, however, produces the most exuberant ve- getation. The Khamsin, (a hot, dry wind which blows from the desert,) the plague, and ophthalmia, are the peculiar torments of Egypt. It has but two seasons, spring and summer; the latter lasts from April to November. During this period the sky is al- ways clear, and the weather hot. In the spring the nights are cool and refreshing. Formerly, it seldom ever rained in Egypt, but at Alexandria it now rains for 30 or 40 days, and at Cairo there are from fifteen to twenty rainy days every winter. It is supposed that this re- It m EGYPT. 53» 1 t markablc chnngo is owing to the immense plnnintionw of the Pa- cha, twenty millions ol" trees havin;.^ Ucsn pluntcd Ix'iow Cairo. The contrary eflect has been produced m ljpi)er Egypt by the de- struction of the trees there. The chief produt^ts of this country arc Indian-corn, rice, wheat, barley, and millet ; also flax, hemp, indigo, cotton, &:c.: palm, and ''ate groves, with the olive, apricot, citron, lemon, and acacia or gum-arabic, and various other useful and ornamental trees, cover the country. Roses are raised in large quantities, rmd rosc-wuter forms an important article of export. Marble, alabaster, pori)by. ry, jasper, granite, salt, natron, nitre, alum, &ic., abound. The inhabitants devote themselves to agriculture, the raising of bees and poultry, the [)reparation of sal-ammoniac, the manufac- turing of leather, flax, hemp, silk and cotton, carpets, glass, and potters'-ware. Constantinople is supplied with grain from Egypt, which, when a Roman province, was called the granary of Rome. The coasting-trade is considerable, and much inland traffic is car- ried on, chiefly with Syria, Arabia, and Western Africa. Cotton, indigo, sugar, rice, natron, nitre, soda, wool, hides, and many other articles, are exported to various quarters. Oxen of a large breed, and tame buflalwjs, are used in agricul- ture ; the animals of burden are camels, horses, and asses ; goats are numerous, and the ichneumon, the active enemy of serpents and lizards of all kinds, and also the destroyer of the eggs of the crocodile, is domesticated and kept, as cats are with us, by the inhabitants. Crocodiles and hippopotami abound in the Nile in Upper Egypt , and lions, hyenas, and antelopes, in the adjacent deserts. Chickens are hatched artificially in ovens constructed for the purpose; the birds, however, arc not so robust as those produced in the natural way. Vast numbers of bees are also raised, and on a failure of the verdure in one spot the hives are placed in boats belonging to |)ersons who devote themselves to that employment, and conveyed to places up or down the Nile where flowers and vegetation abound : here the industrious little insects collect their rich store from the adjucent luxuriant fields; when the liivps are lilled, they are, on the payment of a small compensation, returned to their owners. The people of Egypt consist of Copts, the descendants ( f the ancient Egyptians, who are Christians of one of the branches of the Greek Church ; the Arabs, the most numerous race, divided into Fellahs or peasants; and Bedouins, the wandering tribes of the desert. The Turks, though the ruling people, have never been numerous in this country. The Mamelukes, that remark- able race of military slaves, who were long the masters and 45 * If !■ i iiliii' !■ :l il h ! li k m : Ik iaiJs .ii I; . ■11 t .;!i n m 634 AFRICA. '/? 'I: y> ; <4i:. !(''■■ |V:I m- ": Rl ' ■ 1 J K,:;:'; ,(■ Ki'' ' ' E'^'"' ;' P''" 1. :i ■■1 m : j:.,' m plunderers of Egypt, have been entirely exterminated. Besides thcHO, there are Jews, Greeks, Armenians, and some Europeans in the service of the government. The prevailing language is the Arabic, and the predominant re< ligion is that of Mahomed, of which the Facha has dec^iared him- self the head and director; ho has curtailed the power of the priests, and has also done much to lessen the prejudices of the Mussulmans against Christions. The murder of the Mameluke chiefs, in 1811, subjected Egypt to the sway of Mohamed Ali, who had received from the Porte, five years before, the appointment of pacha, but who, profiting by the distractions of the Ottoman empire, has established a power wholly independent. Ho has also acquired Syria, Cyprus, and Candia, very important possessions, forming some of the most fa- voured of the territories of his old master, and extended his do- minion southward along the Nile as far as Sennaar and Kordofan. In Arabia he has conipTetely crushed the power of the Wahabees, and added to his domain the sacred territory of Mecca, rs well as Medina and Yemen. His territories extend, therefore, in Africa, from Abyssinia to the Mediterranean Sea, 1400 miles, and in Asia from the strait of Babelmandel to the Taurus mountains, almost 2000 miles in length, and in breadth from the oases of the Libyan desert to the western bank of the Euphrates river. This new empire is, consequently, more extensive and important than that of the Mameluke Sultans, the Ptolemies, or the Pharaohs, and contains, probably, 8,000,000 inhabitants, of which Egypt itself comprises from 2,000,000 to 3,000,000. The army of the Pacha is powerful and efficient ; it amounts to 140,000 men, and has been organized and disciplined in the European manner by French officers. The navy consists of nine ships of the line, six frigates, eleven smaller vessels, and three steam-ships: it is manned by 16,000 sailors. At Cairo there is a military college with 1400, and at Alexan- dria a marine academy with 860 pupils ; these are mostly Arabs, and they are instructed by Europeans. The students in the first are destined for officers in the army, and the others for the navy. A cannon-foundry and a manufactory of arms and gunpowder have been also established at Cairo. Mahomed Ali is particularly attentive to the public security: he takes, therefore, all Europeans under his immediate protection, and allows no one to be molested on account of his religion : strangers, also, may travel from one end of Egypt to the other, with perfect safety. He has done much for the commerce and in- dustry as well as civilization of Egypt, and has established a bet- KG YPT. 635 1 i tcr system of law and order than that unfortunate country has experienced since the days of its mu^t potent monarchs. The Pacha encourages every species of industry, and is study- ing to introduce the arts, the sciences, and improvenicnts of Hurope. He is, however, the absolute lord of the soil, and the productions of the country, and is olso the principal merchant ; and no one can deal with foreigners without his consent. His revenue is alxjut 18,U0U,()U0 dollars, derived from taxes of various kinds, duties on imports, and the sale of cotton, indigo, sugar, rice, ikc, which ho monopolizes, purchasing those articles at a low rate from his 8ub« jects, and selling them at a great advance to foreigners. The government of Mahomed Ali is thus one of the most des- potic in existence ; and, notwithstanding the advances that have been made towards civilizolion, the mass of the people are greotly oppressed by the heavy exactions nd severe duties required of them. When recruits are wanted lor the publii service, the vil- lages are oilen surrounded by soldiers ; the most able-bodied of the men arc dragged from their families, loaded with chains on the least reluctance being expressed, and dent to ihe arnr > or navy. Still, Egypt, depressed and degraded under the govern i.nt of the Mamelukes and the Turks, has been raised by the ir.crgctic ad- ministration of Its present ruler to a degree t" distinction that ltd country has not enjoyed for ages; and, thou^n ly means in some instances not the most creditable, yet he has founded an empire of such importance, as to excite the attention and command the re- spect of the most powerful European states. Egypt abounds in some of the most remarkable antiquities in the world : of these, the pyramids are, perhaps, the most astonish- ing monuments of human labour in existence. The two largest are those of Cheops and Cephrenes ; the former is 461 feet high, with a square base of 693 feet in extent, and occupying about eleven acres of ground. This pyramid can be ascended in about twenty minutes, and consists of 206 steps of stone, from one to four feet in height, each tier retiring from the one below, so as to form a series of steps from the bottom t" livj top. At the foot of Cephrenes is the celebrated Sphinx, an imaginary monster, with a lion's body and u human head, cut out of the solid rock ; it is in a lying posture ; the head and neck are about 30 feet high, and the body, though covered with sand, has liecn found to be 12.5 feet long. Tiiere are, also, in Egypt, extensive cata- combs existing in various places, from which mummies, or em- balmed bodies, are obtained. Some of these were deposited 3000 or 4000 years ago. Thebes, in Upper Egypt, is rendered famous by the description of the ancient writers, as the city of an hundred gates, from each um f !'1i 'HI! ■ulf'l ■ '£ ■'I ^ 536 AFRICA. ll» ■ m •■:'■ ■■■'■' . Is..''''"' of which a thousand warriors went forth equipped for buttle. This place, when Greece was just cnnerging from barbarism, and before Rome was built, was the most, magnificent city in the world. Tho splendid description given of it by the Greek writers were loriif considered fabulous, but the observations of modern travellers prove their accounts to have fallen short of the reality. The ancient city was 23 miles in circuit, and nearly all of this space is now filled with its ruins. The banks of the Nile for an extent of between seven and eight miles, are covered with njagni- ficent portals, obelisks decorated with sculpture, forests of columns, and long avenues of colossal statues. One of the temples is a mile and a half in circumference. It has 12 principal entrances ; the body of the temple consists of a prodigious hall, or portico ; the roof is supported by 134 columns. Four beautiful obelisks mark the entrance to the shrine, a place of sacrifice, which con- tains three apartments built entirely of granite. The temple of Luxor probably surpasses in beauty and splen- dour all the other ruins of Egypt. In front, there were, until lately, two splendid obelisks of rose-coloured marble, 100 feet high : one of these has been conveyed to Paris, and now stands in that city. But the objects which most attract attention are the sculptures, which cover the whole of the northern front. They contain, on a great scale, a representation of a victory gained by one of the ancient kings of Egypt over his Asiatic enemies. The number of human figures introduced amounts to 1500; 500 on foot, and 1000 in chariots. Such are some of tht^ remains of a ciiy which perished before the records of authentic history begin. Cairo, or Grand Cairo, the capital of Egypt, is situated on tho east bank of the Nile, 130 miles from the sea : it comprises Old Cairo, New Cairo, and Boulac ; it is the largest and most popu- lous city in Africa; and throughout that region and Arabia, Cairo is considered the queen of cities, the city without a rival : its splen- dour forms one of the chief themes of eastern romance. Euro- peans and Americans find little, however, in its present aspect corresponding to the ideas produced by oriental description. The streets are mere winding alleys, unpaved, and filled with clouds of dust, caused by the concourse of men, camels, and asses, which pass through them. The houses are built of stone and brick, with terraces and flat roofs; and the windows are often glazed with coloured glass. There is a prodigious number of gardens in the city. The mosques are covered with Arabesque ornaments, and adorned with handsome minarets. The waters of the Nile are received bv canals into a great number of docks, or artificial ponds, in different parts of the city. Cairo has a flourishing trade with the interior, by caravans. Population, 300,000. B ■^..:!j; ■\ EGYPT. 637 battle. This I, and before world. The s were lonjr •n travellers ^ y all of this 'Nile for an with magiii- 5 of columns, temples is a il entrances ; I, or portico ; tiful obelisks 3, which con' ty and splen- ■e were, until ble, 100 feet d now stands sntion are the front. They jry gained by nemies. The 1.500; 500 on f remains of a listory begin, uated on the comprises Old id most popu- \rabia, CJairo Ival : its splen- nance. Euro- present aspect cription. ind filled with jels, and asses, tone and brick, ;!n glazed with gardens in the rnaments, and f the Nile are s, or artificial Durishing trade )0. i This city is beginning to imbibe some of the elements of Chris- tian civilization. A scientific society and various schools on the European plan have been founded, and printing-presses have been established by the government, at which a number of Arabic trans- lations, from the most celebrated French and English works, have been printed. Hotels are kept in Cairo on the plan of those in Paris, though in a somewhat inferior style. Alexandria, on the Mediterranean Sea, a few miles to the west- ward of the Rosetta mouth of the Nile, is one of the most re- nowned cities in the world. After being for ages in a state of decay, it is now lifting its head from the dust. The Pacha seems determined to raise it to importance ; and it may perhaps become again a vast emporium. It is now the chief sea-port and naval station of Egypt, and is connected with the Nile by the Mahmou- dia canal ; its commerce, which has of late years greatly increased, is now considerable. Vessels of nearly every European nation are to be found in its harbour ; and steam-boats run to all the prin- cipal sea-ports in the Mediterranean. The population, a few years ago estimated at 20,000, is now supposed to amount to nearly three times that number. This city was founded by Alexander the Great, and soon rose to wealth and distinction. It was the capital of the Ptolemies, and for science and literature was second only to Rome. It con- tained at one time 600,000 inhabitants. After its capture by the Saracens, it began to decline ; and the discovery of the passage to India by the Cape of Good Hope, destroyed its commercial im- portance. At present it consists of narrow, crooked, and dirty streets, with lofty buildings. An immense accumulation of ruins, mostly buried in the sand, Pompey's pillar, Cleopatra's needles, the cisterns, catacombs, and columns, some entire and some broken, scattered here and there, are the remains of the ancient Alexandria : these, however, are not of Egyptian, but of Greek, or Roman origin ; and, in compari- son with the pyramids, are quite modern. Rosetta stands on the west branch of the Nile, four miles from its mouth, and is completely environed by the blooming groves and rich gardens of the Delta. It is built in a better style than most of the Egyptian cities, and has been long a place of considerable importance ; btU is now on the decline, much of its trade having been transferred to Alexandria. Population, 15,000. Damietta is built on the eastern branch of the Nile, 10 miles from the sea. The appearance of the town is beautifully pictu- resque, and the country in the neighbourhood is the most fertile and best cultivated in Egypt. Like Rosetta, this city is also of less importance than formerly. Population, 25,000. ril ft !!t ■ : T ! r ' I llij' ' i: ; i y,; m II' I ;, tl€ I 11 W'''. W^' ■' Ri- 3k'1'.« !.*■ 1 '•• , • IJU, l^v'']:. I ■ . ■ 538 AFRICA. Tanta, in the centre of the Delta, is distinguished by a splendid mosque, built in honour of a famous Mahomedan saint, to which near 150,000 pilgrims annually resort from various countries, some even from Darfur. Minieh, Achmounien, and Manfalout, are all places of some note, above Cairo. Sioiit, 160 miles above this city, has 20,000 inhabitants. It lies on the west side of the Nile, two miles from the river, and is the chief point from which the caravans take their departure to Nubia and Interior Africa. Akhmin, above Siout, has a population of 10,000, and Girge, Kenneh, and Esneh, are among the chief towns in Upper Egypt : the latter has some manufactures of cotton shawls, and pottery. Assouan, the ancient Syene, the most southern town of Egypt, has some trade in dates. Three miles above this place is the first cataract of the Nile, described by the ancient writers as a pro- digious fall; but which is now found to be nothing more than a turbulent rapid. Suez, at the head of the Red Sea, is surrounded by a sandy desert. It has a large trade with Arabia by caravans, and also by sea ; and steam-ships often ply between this place and Bombay. Population, 5000. Cosseir is a sea-port on the Red Sea, and has some trade in grain. The country around it is a desert. NUBIA. Nubia is an extensive region lying south of Egypt, and ex- tending to the confines of Abyssinia. It is bounded on the east and west by the Red Sea and the Great Desert : nearly the whole country is composed of rocky and sandy deserts. The atmo- sphere is dry, the summer hot, the climate healthy, and the plague unknown : the whole region, together with Kordofan, adjoining it on the south-west, is now subject to Mohamed Ali, the Pacha of Egypt, having been conquered by him a few years since. Length, 800 miles; breadth, from 350 to 500. Area, about 320,000 square miles. The little fertility which Nubia possesses is artificial, being pro- duced by raising the water of the Nile, by means of wheels worked with oxen, to the level of the highest banks : in this way a strip of land of from one-eighth of a mile to half a mile in breadth is rendered {)roductive, on which is cultivated dhourra, barley, cotton, tobacco and indigo. The territory of Sennaar, bordering on Abyssinia, does not altogether partake of the barrenness so general in the greater part of Nubia ; some portions of it are comparatively fertile, being watered by the tropical rains which are here considerable, though not so violent as in regions immediately under the equator. N u n I A 639 jy a splendid lint, to which us countries, d Manfalout, ) miles above ;st side of the it from which itcrior Africa. I, and Girge, [Jpper Egypt: , and pottery, wn of Egypt, ace is the first ers as a pro- r more than a id by a sandy vans, and also } and Bombay, i Sea, and has esert. igypt, and ex- ed on the east jarly the whole 3. The atmo- and the plague m, adjoining it 1, the Pacha of since. Length, about 320,000 cial, being pro- wheels worked his way a strip B in breadth is , barley, cotton, sinia, does not the greater part y fertile, being derable, though equator. Besides the usual domestic animals of these countries, the giraffe or camelopard, antelo}x;s of various kinds, foxes and wild dogs, abound ; and an animal is said by the natives to reside in the deserts rather smaller but similar in appearance to the horse, with one long straight horn growing from its forehead. The inhabitants of Nubia have scarcely any manufactures ex- cept some coarse cotton and woollen cloths and mats ; indigo is made from the plant which furnishes that article. The latter is monopolized by the pacha, who appropriates, as in Egypt, the whole produce and commerce of the country. The trade from the interior, which passes through Nubia to Egypt, consists mostly of slaves, gold, and ivory ; that from Egypt and Arabia, European goods, arms, &c. The people of this region are of two classes ; the residents of the towns, similar to the Berters of Mount Atlas, are generally a well-made, muscular race, of a very dark complexion ; the females are modest and pleasing in their demeanour. The inhabitants of the desert are of Arab origin. They were formerly always at war with each other, and with the adjacent tribes, but they are now subject to Mohamed Ali; they pay him an annual tribute, and are obliged to furnish such camels and guides for the use of go- vernment and of travellers as may be required. Europeans can now traverse, under the protection of the pacha, the whole region from Egypt to the confines of Abyssinia, with comparative safety. Some of the remains of the ancient temples found in Nubia rival the proudest monuments of Thebes. The Egyptian edifices con- sist of masonry : those of Nubia are either under ground or are dug out of the solid rock. One of the most magnificent is that of Ebsambul ; it is situated on the west side of the Nile, and is in a state of complete preservation, rising immediately from the bank of the river, and cut out of a perpendicular cliff; in front and near it are statues of colossal size, supposed, when perfect, to have measured 60 or 70 feet in height. At El Belial, near Merawe, are the remams of numerous temples, pyramids, &c. The chief divisions of Nubia are the kingdoms of Dongola in the centre and that of Sennaar in the south ; the territory of Beja, lying along the west coast of the Red Sea, and the districts of Kenous, Nouba, and Dar Mahas in the north, and those of Dar Sheyga and Shendy between Dongola and Sennaar. On the Nile are the small towns of Derr, New Dongola, Old Dongola, El Makkarif and Shendy, containing each from 3000 to 4000 inhabitants. Suakem is the port of Beja, and the only sea- port Nubia possesses. Here the pilgrims from the interior of Africa take passage to Jidda and Mecca. The city of Sennaar, on the eastern branch of the Nile, once estimated to contain a '■■:■ i !? Hi p I'M \IM:\ m^ ill I !„« nil „ i ; i :. 'ilr i; f i li M i ■I I J '1 r'.^ i- ! , : ?■,! .., ■ : . i|;v/^ ^I-:!'. ; >•«■:. -'.'■ ?i I ' i 540 AFRICA. population of 100,000, is now deserted and in ruins, the inhab- itants having abandoned it soon after the Egyptian conquest. The sov;jreign of Sennaar, called the Mek, was lately a pensioner of Mohamed Ali. Kartoom, at the junction of the two great branches of the Nile, is a town recently founded by the Egyptian government, and has already risen to some importance. Darpuf is a considerable country lying almost due south from Egypt .uid ,vest of Kordofan. It is but little known, never hav- ing bc' n visited but by one European, (Mr. T. G. Browne,) who resided there during the years 1793, '4, '5, and '6 : his informa- tion, however, is rather limited, having been, during most part of the time, viewed with great jealousy and closely watched. The country is dry and sandy : the tropical rains, however, in- undate its level plains to some extent, and enable the women to cultivate, though in a rude manner, some wheat and millet. Ca- mels, horned cattle, goats, horses, sheep and asses abound. The people, supposed not to exceed in number 200,000, are a mixture of Arabs and negroes. The king, though absolute, is sometimes deposed and strangled by the soldiery, who elect in his room an- other member of the royal family. Large caravans pass occasionally between Egypt and Darfur, interchanging slaves, ivory, ostrich-feathers, &c., for cloths, car- pets, toys, and beads. A considerable intercourse of religion and trade is carried on with Mecca by way of Jidda and Suakem. Cobbe, the capital, is not supposed to contain more than 4000 in- habitants ; it is about two miles long, but consists merely of ranges of detached houses surrounded by wooded inclosures. Bergoo, or Waday, is an extensive country reaching westward from Darfur almost to the confines of Begharmi and Bornou. Ac- cording to the imperfect accounts yet received, it appears to be greater and more populous than Darfur or Kordofan. Wara, the capital, is represented as a considerable city. A large river, call- ed the Bahr Misselad, is reported to traverse the country in a northern and westerly direction. Kordofan, on the east, and separated by deserts from Darfur, forms a country nearly similar. Its warriors, like those of Bor- nou, are invested in chain armour. In 1820 it was conquered by the Pacha of Egypt, who continues to claim the sovereignty. Fertit, to the south of Darfur, inhabited solely by negroes, contains valuable mines of copper. Still farther south is the mountainous country of Donga, inhabited by a barbarous people* and in which the main branch of the Nile is said to have its origin. i- !■ ABYSSINIA. 541 the inhab- conquest. pensioner two great J Egyptian south from never hav- >wne,) who lis informa- ost part of ed. lowever, in- ; women to nillet. Ca- 3und. The e a mixture i sometimes IS room an- and Darfur, cloths, car- religion and hd Suakem. an 4000 in- }ly of ranges ng westward iornou. Ac- ,pears to be Wara, the e river, call- jountry in a rom Darfur, lose of Bor- lonquered by •eignty. by negroes, south is the rous people, ive its origin. The Shilluk nation reside on the banks of the Bahr-oI-Abiad, to the southward of Kordofan and Nubia ; the people are negroes, and conquered Sennaar in 1504 ; many of them live on the islands in the river, which are very numerous. The Shilluks are men of vast size and strength, and wonderful stories are told by their neighbours of their prowess in attacking the hippopotamus and crocodile in the water, which they seldom fail to overcome. They have numerous canoes which they manage with great skill, and form expeditions against their neighbours, both up and down the river. The Denka, who reside farther up the Bahr el Abiad, were ori- ginally the same people, but they are now constantly at war with one another; both possess great quantities of cattle; they are armed with long spears, which they do not throw, but, crouching behind their shields, wait the approach of their enemy. ABYSSINIA. Abyssinia is an extensive country situated on the head waters of the eastern branches of the Nile. Though it has long excited considerable attention in the civilized world, and has been partially explored by the travellers Bruce, Salt, and others ; it is yet but imperfectly known. On the north it is bounded by the Red Sea, on the south partly by the kingdom of Adel and the country of the Somaulies, and partly by unknown regions occupied by the barbarous Galla tribes. On the west its limits are undetermined, but they probably border on the country of the Shilluks and Denka. In extent it is sup- posed to be about 600 miles long and 400 wide, with a population estimated at from 3,000,000 to 5,000,000. Abyssinia is a country of rugged mountains intersected by deep and extensive valleys. A lofty range, called Lamalmon, bars up the entrance from the Red Sea. The mountains of Samen, Gro- jam, Efat, and Amid- Amid occupy various parts of the country, and are said to be very lofty ; the latter are supposed to be a branch of the mountains of the Moon. The Abawi, Bahr-el-Azrek, or Blue river, rises to the south- west of the lake Dembea, through which it flows, and after a course of 900 miles joins the Bahr-el-Abiad or White river in Sen- naar, and forms the long celebrated Nile. The Tacazze, a smaller tributary of the Nile, with the Maleg, Dender, Rahad, and other rivers, water the various districts of Abyssinia. The country in general is extremely fertile and productive where 46 iiji •' BnWw^ f ' f^fli W%' ^ > i' pf, mil ■ vW': Bfftfy ' li' 'ijfj^ -■ 1* 'i^i'', ■■' * \\f, ^ S,»V;;'' . &(l . • » ?', . 'w (i-.f^;-^ IS:;; ■••■■ mi ■. - I ■■■')■ ! : ii 542 AFRICA. it can be cultivated, and is in a great measure exempted from that empire of sand which dooms so large a portion of Africa to steril- ity. Though situated within the Torrid Zone, the climate of Abys- sinia is for the most part temperate and liOuUhru!, but varies with the surface and aspect of the countr}'. The soas'iiis *iiO divided into wet and dry. The rains continue i^ lull from Aj>iil to Sep- teinbcsr. The domestic cattle vi Abyssinia arc chief'/ ti 'arg;:; vMte va- riety, with very long horns, cjUed the Sanga or Galla uxcn. An- other, the hunched breed, are marked ^'. ith black and wliite spots, and have the horns loofc, turning freely either way, and hanging against the cheeks. Horses are numeroii?, and the elephant, rhi- noceros, lion, and panther are not uncommon , ih(; iiippcpotamus is also found in some of the rivers : the civet cat, noted for the odo- rifevous substance which it yields., is in Siome ,< !ces domesticated for the sake of its perfume, an article, though not much prized in Rurope, ivi great request in the East. Agricuiture in this region is in a rude state, yet some products 'ue raii^ed in great abundance. Teff, a very small grain, fur- nishes the principal food of the people, and is made into large thin cakes. Wheat, barley, Indian-corn, and cotton, are raised in va- rious quarters. Balsam, myrrh, and other medicinal productions are common. Salt is found in great quantities in the north-eastern parts of Tigre ; it overspreads an extensive plain, is hard like ice, and being cut into convenient pieces, is circulated like cotton cloth through the country as money. The people of Abyssinia are composed of different tribes, va- rious in figure and colour; the general complexion, however, is olive. They are generally a well-formed, active race, with long hair, and features somewhat of the European cast. The Jews, who comprise an important class, settled here in remote ages, and have nearly lost the Hebrew language. The inhabitants of Tigre are rude and barbarous; but the ferocity and filthiness of the Galla, a people who have conquered some of the finest provinces of Abyssinia, almost surpass belief. In their incursions they destroy every human being without dis- tinction of age or sex, smear themselves with the blood of slaugh- tered animals, and hang the entrails about their necks. These savages resemble the Caffires of Southern Africa, but are smaller in size ; they have a round head, small eyes and thick lips, with fine hair, rather frizzled than woolly. In the north-western districts are found the Shangalla, a rude and savage negro race, with visages approaching to those of apes. They live under the shade of trees, and at some seasons in caves. The Abyssinians frequently hunt them as wild beasts. ABYSSINIA. 543 mote ages, and The customs of the people of this country are exceedingly sa- vage and disgusting. At their brinde feasts they eat the raw and still quivering flesh of cattle just slaughtered, and drink their fa- vourite liquors bouza and hydromel to intoxication. A perpetual state of civil war seems the main cause of their peculiar brutality and barbarism. Human life is but little regarded, and dead bodies are often to be seen lying in the streets, which serve as food to dogs and hyenas. Marriages are formed and dissolved at plea- sure, and conjugal fidelity is but little regarded. The rulers are unlimited despots in ecclesiastical and civil affairs, disposing of the lives of their subjects at pleasure. The Abyssinians boast that their country was the Sheba of Scripture, and that the queen of that name who visited Solomon was their sovereign. The Jewish religion was adopted several hundred years before the Christian era ; but about the commence- ment of the fourth century, the nation was converted to Chris- tianity, which it has ever since professed. The Abyssinian church owns the supremacy of the Coptic pa- triarch of Cairo, and from him the Abuna, or spiritual head, re- ceives his appointment. The worship is very corrupt, and greatly burthened with trifling forms and ceremonies, and is much inter- mixed with Jewish rites and observances. The Mosaic laws in regard to clean and unclean meats are respected, and both Satur- day and Sunday are observed as a Sabbath. The churches are numerous and much ornamented with paintings, and the altars have the form of the ark of the covenant. This country was formerly under the dominion of one sove- reign called the Negus, whose government was despotic ; but the conquests of the Galla and the disunion produced by long conti- nued civil wars, has reduced the strength and importance of the state to a low condition. I'he power of the monarch is now merely nominal ; he resides at Gondar, a king without a kingdom, and is kept almost a prisoner by the Galla chief of Amhara. Abyssinia now comprises three distinct states, Tigre in the cast, Amhara in the west, and Shoa and Efat in the south. The unsettled condition of affairs in Abyssinia renders it difficult to give any specific account of these divisions. Tigre is the most important ; it is supposed to contain about half the population of the country, and is governed by a chief called the Ras. Shoa and Efat form one state, and are under the control of a ruler, who is a descendant of the ancient royal family. Amhara, one of the most fertile divisions of Abyssinia, is now governed by a Galla chieflain. Adowa, the capital of Tigre, is the only point of communica- tion with the interior. It has a considerable trade, and the inha- ■f ': I lit:' IE 'i ••■ ti \Wl l!i:|||;.- '1 i 1 1" '^ I* -.■ J' ' 544 AFRICA. bitants are among the most highly civilized of the Abyssinians. Population, 8000. Antaio, which has for some time been the residence of the Ras, stands upon the side of a mountain, and is supposed to contain a population of 10,000. Axum, the ancient capital, is now in ruins, but is remarkable for its antiquities. Gondar, the capital of Amhara, is three or four leagues in circuit. The houses are built of red stone, and roofed with t latch. It is now in the hands of the Galla. W'^' ' 17 'A ■■. V':. I m ii'i'' i:.: mi' ' WESTERN AFRICA. Western Africa comprehends that long range of coast which extends southward from the Great Desert to the tropic of Capri- corn, and from the sea-shore to the distance of from 200 to 600 miles inlani It comprises three great divisions, Senegambia and Upper Guinea, and Lower Guinea ; these names, however, are all European, and unknown to the natives. The whole region is divided into a multitude of states, mostly small, governed by despotic princes, and without any political con- nexion; yet there is such a resemblance of climate, soil, and character, as justifies a description of them under one general head. The rivers of Western Africa are numerous, though none of them are decidedly of the first magnitude. The Senegal, Gambia, Niger, Congo, or Zaire, and Coanza, are the principal. The Senegal was long considered the outlet of the Niger, hut the tra- vels of Mr. Park, in 1795, dispelled that idea. Though that mysterious stream has its rise and termination in this quarter, it must be considered as belonging to Central Africa. Farther south, the Congo, or Zaire, pours its vast masr of waters into the ocean, which it freshens for a considerable distance : the chief part of its course is still shrouded in mystery. Like the Senegal, it was also supposed to be the outlet of the Niger, but the discoveries of the Messrs. Landers showed that opinion to be unfounded. Extensive portions of this territory are covered with dense and almost impenetrable forests, and the soil is capable of yielding the richest treasures of the vegetable world. Indian-corn, rice, mil- let, coflee, sugar, cotton, and tobacco, are all, more or less, culti- vated, but chiefly for native use, seldom as articles of trade. The yam, sweet potatoe, banana, pine-apple, orange, lime, the negro- peach, and monkey-apple, are among the roots and fruits found in nearly all quarters. The palm-tree yields an intoxicating liquor called palm-wine, and the palm-oil has become an object of great commercial importance. WESTERN AFRICA. 545 lowever, are The manufactures of tho natives are generally rude, compared with those of civilized nations: they are coiUincd to tlu; usual African articles of coa»'so cotton cloths, a few rough im|)lcn)onts of iron, and ornaments of gold. The inhabitants do not engage in any maritime commerce, but trade with the American and Eu- ropean vessels that arrive on the coast and at the ditlerent factories, exchanging their gold, ivory, &c. for fire-arms, gunpowder, brandy, calicoes, and other arti< '>.'3. They, however, have a considerable traffic with the interior countries, by means of coffles. The slave trade, though declared unlawful to the northward of the equator, is still carried on to a great extent on the coasts of Western Africa ; and the various native chiefs engage in and encourage it, furnish- ing slaves to the traders, both from their own subjects, and from the prisoners taken in war. The people of Western Africa are strangers to literature and the ornamental arts, and their progress in that which constitutes improved and civilized life, is extremely limited. Their ideas of religion are absurd and irrational, and their gross superstition is almost unparalleled. Whatever strikes the imagination of the un- tutored negro, or appears to his eyes as sacred or supernatural, becomes his Fetish, or object of worship. Thus he adores a rock, a tree, a fish-bone, a ram's horn, or a blade of grass ; and the ser- pent, the lizard, the leopard, &c., are regarded as gods among various nations. All the good fortune of the negro is supposed to arise from the favour of the Fetish, and every evil to proceed from oiFence taken by it. The universal amusements of all the negro nations are music and dancing : as soon as the sun descends beneath the horizon, there is dancing and merriment in nearly all parts of Africa. Their per- formance, however, in both branches, is rude, grotesque, and bar- barous. Polygamy is universal, and by the chiefs and princes it is carried to the utmost extent that their circumstances will permit. To have numerous wives and children is considered a matter of boast, and is even converted into a source of wealth, for their wives are regarded merely as slaves, and are made to till the ground, weave cloth, make mats, &c. In some of tho larger despotic monarchies, as As'hantee and Dahomy, the wives of the sovereign amount to several thousands, selected, not only from prisoners taken in war, but from the families of any of his subjects. In the art of building, the native Africans show but little inge- nuity : there is not, perhaps, among any of the negro nations, a single house erected of stone ; earth, branches of trees, leaves, rushes, and grass, are the principal materials employed. Their villages have been compared to groups of dog-kennels rather than of houses : the door is seldom more than two or three feet \vgh, I ■ I 'XI 'if.' 546 AFRICA. and the occupant con barely stand upright in the most elevated part of his cabin: the habitation of their chiefs, and even kings, are seldom better than those of the poor, only more numerous, each wife hoving n hut; and the whole assemblage being aur. rounded by a mud wall, or dyke, resembles a rude village, rather than a palace. Among the rich a considerable taste lor finery prevails ; brace- lets and rings are worn in great numliers, and sometimes of con« siderable value, on the arms and legs, and in the oars. Costly robes of silk, velvet, Indian chintz, &c., also form part of the dress of the rich : some of the women paint their faces with white and red spots, and tattooing is likewise practiaed. The lower classes are content with a wrapper of the coarsest stuff of the country, and many are almost destitute of clothing. I . r I . fi'v r ■ rip.iv- ■";" l^-' •."'•■' ( J ^ fm i ;: ;'? ' kt'-^ ' '■ /■ «=iV I ' 1 SENEGAMBIA. Senegambia extends along the coast of Western Africa, from the Great Desert to the colony of Sierra Leone, and from the At- lantic Ocean into the interior, embracing the regions watered by the various tributaries of the Senegal and Gambia rivers, extend- ing in length about 800, and in breadth al)0Ut 560 miles. The country on the coast is much of it flat and marshy, and very unhealthful for Europeans ; notwithstanding which, the English, French, and Portuguese, have some small settlements. In the interior are many motmtainous districts, mostly about the sources of the great rivers. This region is generally well watered by the Senegal and its numerous branches, and also by the Gambia and Rio Grande. The climate and vegetable productions are such as belong to tropical regions. Senegambia is inhabited by different negro tribes, but marked with various distinctions of person, character, and manners : they live mostly under petty sovereigns, and in general are an easy, good-natured race; but ignorant, and barbarous. Among these various nations, the Foulahs, Jalofis, and Mandingoes, are the most numerous. The Foulahs are widely diffused over Western Africa : they are superior in form and feature to the other nations in this quar- ter, and are of a complexion inclining to olive : their habits are pastoral, and their character for honesty, industry, and sobriety, is proverbial. The Foulahs are supposed to be the same people as the Fellatas of Soudan, and, like them, are Mahomedans. The Foulah kingdoms of Western Africa are a species of theo- cracies, l)eing governed by elective, spiritual sovereigns, .styled WKSTERN AFRICA. 647 'If I >st t'levatcd iven kings, numerous, being aur- [ugc-s ruther lils ; brace- nes of con« .rs. Costly part of the 3 with white The lower stuff of the Africa, from from the At- ) watered by vers, extend- ilea. jhy, and very the English, snts. In the t the sources atered by the Gambia and 3 are such as but marked tinners: they are an easy. Among these are the most Africa: they in this quar- iir habits are and sobriety, same people niedans. ecies of theo- reigns, styled Almamvs, or chiots of the faithful. The principal states arcFoota Jallon, Foota Toro, Foota Bondoo, and Fouladoo, the original coun- try of the Foulahs. FooTA Jallon, the largest of the Foulah states, is said to ex- tend about USO miles in length and 200 in breadth, and lies along the head waters of the rivers Senegal, Gambia, and Uio Grande. It is the most improved of all the native states in this part of Africa. The inhabitants manufacture cloths of considerable fine- ness, and work in iron, gold, silver, and leather. Here, where they are the ruling people, they by no means display that pacific character which distinguishes the triljes on the lower Gambia and Senegal : they can bring into the field 16,000 men, and are often engaged in war. Timboo, the cv. *.tal, is said to contain 7000 inhabitants, and Laby r>000. FooTA ToRo is situated on both sides of the Senegal river, and is a considerable kingdom. The sovereign is often at war with the adjacent state of the almost pagan Damel, or Burb of the Ja- loffs : the latter, however, by the strength of his country, and a prudent system of warfare, has been able to baflle these attempts. The Jaloffs inhabit the territory situated between the Senegal and Gambia rivers, and extending from the sen-coast to a con- siderable distance in the interior : though of a deep black com- plexion, and with decided negro features, they are the handsomest race in Western Africa. They excel in the manufacture of cotton- cloth, rival the Moors in horsemanship, and are learless and ex- pert hunters. The Jaloffs occupy several small states, the govern- ments of which are despotic, and the princes hereditary. Of these, the chief are Barra and Boor Salum, on the Gambia ; Brak, on the Senegal ; and Darnel and Cayor, on the sea-coast. The Mandingoes are the most numerous people of this region. Their employments are chiefly a slight agriculture, and traffic, in which their enterprise exceeds that of all the other negro races : they trade with the Americans and Euiopoans on the coast, and conduct large kafilas to a considerable distance in the interior. These people are cheerful and inquisitive, and are inveterate dan- cers : their taste is rather more refined than is usual among the Africans, particularly in poetry, the extemporary composition and recitation of which forms one of their favourite amusements. They are partly Mahomedans and partly ()agans. Their original coun- try is Manding, of which the government is a species of republi- canism. Bambouk, Saloom, Kaboo, and Koorankoo, are Man- dingo states ; and Bambarra and Kaarta, in Soudan, are also set- tled by the same people. L .1' ''111 fi,' F • 548 AFIIICA. m f/. :J'' ■ It'^..- >v HAMRoirK, situated on the upjKjr Sciio/.l, i*; aliuoat q country of mountains, from whence riso numerous stronms, nearly all ol* which How over golden sands. The trudo is moi>ily carrif.'d on with the French, hy the Serrawoollics, a small, but peculiar trilx;, who arc very industrious, and devoted to trailic. SooLiMANA, to the south of Foota Jallon, is u warlike and con- siderable kingdom, of which the sovereign is a Mahomedan, wiiilu the bulk of the nation are pagans. The people are a gny, thought- loss, stirring race. The two sexes seem to have reversed their occupations , the women till the ground, build the houses, and act as barbers and surgeons ; while the men tend the dairy, sew, and even wash the clothes. SE>E(iAri. — Among the European settlements on this coast, that of Senegal, belonging to France, is the most nortiiern. Fort St. Louis, the chief settlement, is situated on an island in the river Senegal. The French lost this place during the revolutionary war, but had it restored to them in 1814. The population is supposed to bo about 6000. The commerce of this colony is confined to the gum ond the gold trade of Bambouk. The gum, which from this river and aeitlement is called gum-Senegal, is the produce of some scattered oases, or verdant spots, that occur in the Great Desert, north of the Senegal river : it is collected mostly in the month of Decem- ber, by the Moorish tribes in the vicinity, and by them the gum is bartered to the French. The amount exported is about ^50,000 pounds. At Goree, a small island near Cape Verde, the French have established the capital of all their African dominions : it is an al- most perpendicular rock, and is well fortified. The town contains 3000 inhabitants. It is a busy bustling place, being the entrep6t for all the opposite coast, and the point at which French ships bound for India stop for refreshments. Gambia. — The European settlements on the Gambia are entirely English. Bathurst, on St. Mary's island, at the mouth of the river, containing a population of about 2000, is the principal place. Fort James, near the mouth of, and Pisania, a considerable distance up the river, are small trading posts : at Bathurst, the Wesleyan Missionary Society has established a church and several schools, which are in a prosperous state. There is a mission also at Macarthy's Island, about 180 miles above Bathurst. South of the Gambia, on the San Domingo river, and other streams, the Portuguese have a Hew small posts, of little or no im- portance. WESTERN AFRICA. SIERRA LEONE. 649 ,• The Hritish colony of Sierra Lcono is situated on the west coast of Africa about 4UU miles south-cast from the Gambia river : it was founded in 17H7, with a view of introducing civilization and ChriH> tianity into Africa ; the first emigrants were negroes who had found their way from various quarters to London and other places in Greut Britain. The population was aHorwards augmented by a numl)er of American slaves who had left the service of their mas. ters during our revolutionary war, and also of maroons from Ja- maica. The bulk of the inhabitants, however, are liberated slaves taken fron. the various slave-ships captured from time to time. With a virw to initiate these people into the habits of civilized life, the British Church Missionary Society has introduced teachers and schools into the colony, and many hundreds of the children are nrw taught. The population of Freetown, the capital of the colony, and its suburbs, has risen to near 10,000; and eight or ten little towns or villages have been estuLMshcd in its vicinity ; of these, Regents, town, Gloucester, Wellington, &c., are the principal. The inhab- itants of the colony amount to about 30,000, of whom not more than 100 are whites. The extreme unhealthlness of the climate of Sierra Leone ren- ders it difficult to procure well-qualified Europeans to settle there; and its unfavourable position on the coast, in contact only with a few turbulent tribes, not with any of the great and leading native states, has hitherto prevented an impression being made upon Af- rica. No radius of civilization proceeds from the colony, and it appears certain it has not as yet realized the expectations of its benevolent founders. GUINEA. GriNEA, the largest division of Western Africa, extends along the sea-coast from the St. Paul's river to the Bembaroughe, a dis- tance of 2800 miles. It is intersected by the equator nearly mid- way between its northern and southern extremities, and forms a vast crescent around the Gulf of Guinea. This region comprehends the countries of Upper Guinea and Lower Guinea ; the first, the most northern section, ranges from east to west. Lower Guinea lies almost at right angles with the former, and extends from north to south. Though these coasts !l I r f:r ■' ■;!! lif i I ■:u;. 550 AFRICA. lr,',f-.. r^:^ were discovered by the Portuguese previous to the voyages of Co- lumbus, and have, since that time, been much frequented, yet the interior districts are almost unknown. UiTER Guinea commences at the river St. Paul's, and extends along the coast to the most eastern estuaries of the Niger, and into the interior from the sea to the mountains of Kong. It is in length about 1300, and in breadth from 150 to 350 miles. The coasts are usually divided by mariners into the Grain, Ivory, Gold, and Slave coasts, so named from the commodities that form t^ ; chief objects of trade at the respective places. The political divisions are, Liberia, Ashantee, Dahomey, Benin, Waree, &c. The interior countries of Guinea, with the exception of Ashantee and Dahomey, are almost entirely unknown ; of the latter some knowledge has been obtained from the different agents of the British government, sent thither for diplomatic purposes. The principal rivers are the St. Paul's, Cestors, St. Andrew's, Lahou, Assinee, Bossumpra, Volta, and Niger. ■ W .::)■ I'll ; iP' Mr • i, IP "i't LIBERIA. The colony of Liberia, now the most interesting country in Af- rica, was founded by the American Colonization Society, in the year 1821, for the purpose of facilitating the gradual emancipation of the slaves of the United States. Liberia is situated on the coast of Africa at the western extrem- ity of Guinea, and about 4000 miles south-eastward from the At- lantic shores of this country. The colonial territory stretches from Cape Mount to Cape Pal mas, a distance of about 300 miles. It is a tropical region, lying between five and seven degrees of north latitude, and possesses the climate, productions, and charac- teristics of that part of the world. After suffering much from the hostility of the natives, with whom it had to sustain several severe conflicts, this little colony has at length obtained tranquillity, and is in a prosperous condition. The soil is rich and fertile, yielding rice, cotton, coffee, sugar, indigo, banana, cassada, yams, &c. Camwood is abundant, the timber of which is durable and well adapted for building. Monrovia, the capital and seat of government, is a town of 500 houses, built on Cape Mesurada, and about 200 miles south-east from Sierra Leone ; the chief of the other settlements are Mills- burg and Caldwell on the St. Paul's river ; Edina and Bassa Cove, at the mouth of the St. John's, founded under the auspices and guidance of the Pennsylvania and New York Societies; Green- fS < f 1 WESTERN AFRICA. 551 iges of Co- ;ed, yet the and extends rer, and into is in length The coasts r, Gold, and [h t^ ) chief )mey, Benin, he exception own ; of the ferent agents tic purposes. 3t. Andrew's, country in Af- Jociety, in the emancipation jstern extretn- . from the At- itory stretches mt 300 miles, m degrees of s, and charac- Imuch from the several severe nquillity, and coffee, sugar, abundant, the tiding. ] a town of 500 liles south-east Uts are Mills- id Bassa Cove, auspices and pieties; Green- ville, a territory lately purchased by the Mississippi Society, and in part settled by the colonists which it has sent out ; Louisiana, in Africa, a recent purchase by the Louisiana Society ; and (inally, on the extreme south-east, Cape Pal mas, or Maryland, in Liberia, the settlement of the Maryland Society. The colonists consist of free blacks, emancipated slaves, and recaptured Africans. The whole number is about 5000. The general direction of affairs is in the hands of the Society's agent, but the local interests of the colony are confided to the care of colonial councils and magistrates. In Liberia there are eighteen churches, forty ministers of the gospel, and eight hundred professors of religion. Nowhere is the Sabbath more strictly observed, or the places of worship better attended. Sunday schools and Bible classes are established gene- rally in the churches, into which the native children are gathered together with those of the colonists ; and in many cases adults also attend. There are a number of week-day schools, supported generally by missionary and education societies. Nearly thirty missionaries, from the principal religious denomi- nations in the Union, are aided and protected in those settlements while devoting themselves to the great work of instructing the heathen in Christianity, and building up, amid these abodes of vice and cruelty, the Church of the living God. The slave trade, which formerly was prosecuted extensively along the whole west- ern coast, is now entirely broken up wherever the influence of the colonists extends. To different points of the coast vessels built at the wharves of Monrovia, and manned and commanded by her citizens, convey articles of American and European skill, in exchange for the gold, ivory, camwood, palm-oil, the precious gums, and various pro- ducts of that vast and fertile country ; thus encouraging the native population to turn from an illegal traffic to agricultural pursuits and lawful commerce. The native tribes comprise the Deys, an indolent and inoffen- sive race, occupying the coast on both sides of the St. Paul's river to the number of about 7000 or 8000 ; the Bassas, also a peace- ful, but more industrious and numerous people farther south, and the Queahs and Condoes in the interior. There are likewise scat- tered settlements of Kroomen, whose native country is near Cape Palmas, and who are a laborious and hardy race, acting as pilots, porters, and oarsmen for the trading vessels on the coast ; they commonly speak English. The Grain Coast, occupied mostly by Liberia, derived its name from the Guinea-pepper, or grains of Paradise, a spice about the size of hemp-seed, which was regarded by Europeans when they rii ! t -I I. m ! i ■% % m M. ;:": '1 1 552 AFRICA. ^^^^ ■v'- (< ■ ■ i ( p: , i ' ^^K^ :-. , ■Tu.'i, ' ;■ ,; Kf,; P- r' p.. f':' - ' ^ii ii ^jl^J^, u ■ ) i ■i ; ■ . n fSs^T i ■ i V.) y Hi first landed here, as a delicious luxury ; but, after the aromatics of the east became familiar, it fell into disrepute. The Ivory Coast extends from Cape Palmas to Apollonia, about 400 miles : the name is derived from the quantities of ivory ob- tained from the elephants on the sea-shore and in the interior. There are a number of small ports along the coast, at which Eu- ropean ships occasionally trade. The Gold Coast extends from the Ivory Coast to the Volta river, about 280 miles. This region derives its designation from the rich product which its name indicates. The English, Dutch, and Danes, all have here trading settlements, or forts. The chief of these, belonging to Great Britain, are Cape Coast Castle, a strong fortress, mounting 90 pieces of cannon ; Dix Cove, Suc- condee, Winebah, Acra, and others. Those of the Dutch are El Mina, formerly belonging to the Portuguese, and seven or eight others. The Danish forts are Christianburg, Ningo, and Quitta. The Slave Coast extends eastward from the Volta river 300 miles, to the Formosa river, so namecj because slaves were for- merly procured here in greater numbers than elsewhere. It con- sisted, originally, of the kingdoms of Whidah and Ardrah, which, in the beginning of the last century, were conquered by Dahomey, and incorporated into that state. AsHANTEE, lying in the interior, and north of the Gold Coast, is the most important native power in this quarter of Africa. In military skill and valour, in arts and intelligence, they are de- cidedly superior to any other of the inhabitants of Western Africa. Large armies assemble at a short warning, which furnishes evidence of a dense population. The rude magnificence displayed in their camp when visited by the English, and the dignity and courtesy of deportment both of the king and his officers, indicate a degree of civilization much superior to that of the surrounding nations. There are, notwithstanding, features in the character and cus- toms of this people, surpassing in barbarity almost any other ex- cept in the contiguous kingdom of Dahomey. On the death of the king or any of the royal family, thousands of human beings are put to death : this is done, also, when any of the great men wish to propitiate the manes of their ancestors, or wl f i favourable omens are sought respecting any great projected enterpi'ise. The legal allowance of wivp'^ for the king is 3333, a mystical number on whicli the welfare of the kingdom is supposed to de- pend : these unfortunate beings are no better than slaves, and on any capricious disgust, are treated with the greatest cruelty, and often put to death. The Ashantees cultivate rice and the sugar-cane ; fine cotton I aromatics onia, about f ivory ob- tie interior. which Eu- the Volta [lation from iish, Dutch, The chief St Castle, a Cove, Suc- )utch are El ven or eight and Quitta. ta river 300 es were for- ere. It con- rdrah, which, by Dahomey, . Gold Coast, f Africa. In they are de- Bslern Africa. ishes evidence ayed in their and courtesy icate a degree ig nations, cter and cus- any other ex- 16 death of the an beings are eat men wish favourable erprise. }3, a mystical ipposed to de- ilaves, and on cruelty, and ,e ; fine cotton 1 WESTERN AFRICA. 553 grows jpontaneously, and tropical fruits are abundant. Their cattle are large and fine, but their horses mostly of small size. They are but indifferent horsemen, and sometimes ride on oxen. They use a loom similar to the European, and produce fine cloths with brilliant colours. They also work skilfully in metals and leather; their articles of gold are in particular very neatly made. Coomassie, the capital, is said to have from 00,000 to 80,000 inhabitants. The houses are well built and neat. The streets are all named, and are each under the charge of a captain, or chief. Ashantee proper is supposed to contain a population of 1 ,000,000 ; but, including its tributary states, probably three or four times that amount. Dahomey, lying east of Ashantee, and north of the Slave Coast, extends into the interior upwards of 200 miles. It consists of an extensive and fertile plain, capable of every species of tropical cul- ture. The people of this kingdom are warlike and ferocious, and more brutalized in their manners and customs than any known race. Human sacrifices take place here on a greater scale than even in Ashantee, and the bodies of the victims, instead of being interred, are hung up on the walls and allowed to putrefy. Human skulls make the favourite ornaments of the palaces and temples : the king has his sleeping apartment paved with them, and the roof ornamented with the jaw-bones of chiefs whom he has slain in battle. Abomey, the capital, contains about 24,000 inhabitants ; Ardra, 25 miles from the coast, 10,000; Griwhee, the port of Abomey, about 7000 ; and Badagry about 5000. Benin, eastward of Dahomey, '.\tends from east to west up- wards of two hundred miles. Thi - region is but little known ; but for Europeans the climate is very vmhealthful. The natives are active traders in slaves, ivory, and palm-oil. The king is not only absolute, but he is considered fetish, or a god, in the eyes of his subjects, and all oflfences a- nst him are punished in the most cruel and summary manner, not . nly as treason, but as impiety. Waree, south of the Formosa river, is a much smaller state than Benin. The country is low, marshy, and covered with a thick forest. Here, too, the king is absolute, and carries polyg- amy to a great extent. The whole of this region, from the river Formosa to Biafra, in- cluding part of Benin, Waree, Bonny, &c., comprises the Delta of the Niger, and is traversed by a great number of rivers. Of these, the Nun, by which the Messrs. Landers descended to the ocean, if not the largest, is at least the most direct. The Bonny, another large estuary, to the eastward of the Nun, has on its banks, 47 f If )V ti t. r •: ■>! , I. i'.i* ■mm 554 AFRICA. a few miles from the sea, the towns of Bonny and New Calebar. The people support themselves by the trade in salt, slaves, and palm-oil. The Old Calebar, Rio del Rey, and Camcroons, are important estuaries. On the first, about 60 miles from the sea, is Ephraim Town, with 6000 inhabitants, governed by a duke. Im^ W r LOWER GUINEA. That part of Western Africa lying south of the Niger river is sometimes called Lower Guinea, a term which is however not generally adopted. Here, as in ljpp»ir Guinea, the interior is but imperfectly known ; the heat of the climate is extreme, and the manners and customs of the people are rude and barbarous. Bia- fra, Loango, and Portuguese Guinea, are the principal territories in this division of Africa. South of the Niger, and extending towards Congo, are the Danger, Moondah, Gaboon and other rivers; these water the countries of Biafra, Calbongas, and Gaboon; they are all of them but little known, and but occasionally frequented ; the country, with a few exceptions, being very unhealthful for Europeans. It yields, however, some ivory and palm-oil, which form almost the only inducement for visiting it. LoANGo, situated between the country of Gaboon and Congo, extends along the coast about 400 miles. The climate is de- scribed as fine, and the soil in the vicinity of the sea-coast fertile, yielding in profusion a great variety of tropical productions. The slave-trade, for which alone this part of Africa is most frequented, is chiefly carried on at Malemba and Cabcnda, on the south part of this region. Malemba is so pleasant and healthful as to be called the Mont- pelier of Africa - and Cabenda, near the mouth of the river of the same name, also a beautiful town, is known by the appellation of the paradise of the coast. Loango, about 100 miles north of the Congo river, is the chief town in this country, but is now seldom frequented. Population, 15,000. Mayumba, in the northrirn part of Loango, is a considerable town, the inhabitants of which are the most mild and intelligent of any on these shores. Portuguese Guinea. — The next division of Lower Guinea consists of Congo, Angola and Benguela. Tlieir coasts, and also those of Loango, are named by navigators the coast of Angola, or more commonly the coast. The principal river is the Congo, or Zaire, a powerful and rapid stream, which enters the Atlantic by a single channel ; it was ascended in 1816 by Captain Tuckey, WESTERN AFRICA 555 280 miles, yet nothing was ascertained as to its origin and early course. The other chief rivers are the Ambriz, Dande, Coanza, and Cuvo. Of these, the Coanza is, next to the Congo, tlie most important stream ; it is said by the Portuguese, on the report of the natives, to flow from a large lake far in the interior, in the country of the Cassanges, in which the Coango, the head tributary of the Zaire, also has its source. This country extends from the Congo rivei to the Bembaroughe, the southernmost limit of Benguela, about 800 miles; and into the interior the distance is very uncertain. The Portuguese claim sovereignty over the whole region, but their authority is supposed to be merely nominal, except in the vicinity of their forts, and in the immediate neighbourhood of the coast. The country was dis- covered by them in 1487, and soon afterwards visited by a number of missionaries, who converted many of the natives to the Catholic feith. CoxGo, the largest division of the Portuguese territories on this coast, lies immediately south of the Congo river, and extends for a considerable distance into the interior, which is entirely unknown. The rh'of town is St. Salvador, at which the Portuguese maintain a mi ,sioi. Of this place no recent details have been received. In the natives of Congo the negro indolence is carried to its utmost excess ; the little cultivation that exists, carried on entirely by the females, is nearly limited to the manioc root, which they are not very skilful in preparing. Their houses are formed of mats, made from the fibres of the palm tree, while their clothes and bedding consists merely of matted grass. Angola and Benguela lie to the southward of Congo. Of the former, the chief settlement is at St. Paul de Loando, a large town in an elevated situation. It exports annually 18,000 to 20,000 slaves, mostly to Brazil. San Felipe de Benguela, in a marshy and unhealthful site, is now considerably declined, and its population does not exceed 3000, mostly free negroes and slaves. Matemba, &LC. — Far inland are the countries of Matemba and Cassange. In this interior region, two cenUmps ago, the .lagas, or Giagas, were celebrated by travellers as a formidable tribe, addicted to the most ferocious and revolting habits : thev were constantly at war with the people around them, but are probably extinct or changed in their habits, as they appear now to be un- Uno^vn. MooLooA. — To the northward of Cassange, and about midway between the eastern and western coast, is the nation of the Moo- looas, represented as more numerous and riore intelligent, and to 556 AFRICA. ^ have attained a higher degree of industry and civilization than any other in this quarter of Africa. The country abounds in copper. The king is absolute, and the atrocious custom of human sacrifice prevails. CiMBEBAs Country. — Stretching south of Benguela for several hundred miles, are the desert and dreary coasts of Cimbebas, on which fresh water is very scarce, and only found in spots far distant from each other. The whole region along the sea-shore comprises a strip of sandy desert 40 or 50 miles in breadth, behind which the interior country becomes hilly and apparently well fitted for pastur- age. Horned cattle constitute the riches of the inhabitants, who are clothed in ox-hides, and seem to be a mild and inoflensive race. They are similar in appearance to the Hottentots, and are probably a tribe of that people. These coasts have been lately visited by some Americans, who held intercourse with the natives at a few points, and purchased good cattle from them at the low rate o{/ one or two dollars a head. r 'if . 11 § i SOUTHERN AFRICA. Southern Africa extends from the tropic of Capricorn to Cape LaguUas, the most southern point of the eastern continent : it includes the Cape Colony, CafTraria, the country of the Hotten- tots, and that occupied by the Boshuanas. It extends from north to south 750, and from east to west from 600 to 900 miles, and has an area of about 480,000 square miles. The principal mountain ridge of this territory is that called, in different parts of its range, by the names of Nieuwvelds Bergen, and Sneuw Bergen, or Snowy Mountains, which divides the waters of the Orange river from tiiose flowing to the south in the Cape Colony, and those of Caffraria, which run eastward into the Indian Ocean. This chain is supposed to extend about 1100 miles in lengfh ; many parts of it are constantly covered with snow, and its •; ghesi peaks are about 10,000 feet in hieight. Much of the surface of this region is unfit for cultivation, particularly that part of it in the colony immediately south of the mountains, called the Great Karroo, which is a level plain, covered with a hard and im- penetrable soil, 300 miles in length, and near 100 in breadth. North of the mountains, the territory gradually improves, till it opens into the extensive pastoral plains occupied by the Boshu- anas. So far OS this has been explored, to the northward, it be- comes always more fertile ; though to the west, there has been iIM! 1 than any in copper. in sacrifice for several mbebas, on i far distant 3 comprises i which the \ for pastur- its, who are snsive race. Lre probably y visited by es at a few low rate oC' Capricorn to •n continent: the Hotten- Js from north miles, and lat called, in elds Bergen, es the waters 1 in the Cape ito the Indian 00 miles in th snow, and Much of the irly that part ns, called the hard and im- breadth. iproves, till it )y the Boshu- t'hward, it be- lere has been SOUTHERN AFRICA, 557 ii- I observed the sandy desert of Challahengah, or Karri Harri, which is reported by the natives to be of great extent. The eastern coast also consists of a fine pastoral country, occupied by various Caffre tribes. The chief river of this region is the Orange, which, with its tributaries, drains a large extent of country north of the Snowy mountains, and, after a course of probably 1000 miles, falls into the Southern Ocean, about 400 miles north of Cape Town. Those in the colony, and south of the great mountain chain, are the Oliphant's river, the Breede, Gaurits, Camtoos, Zoon- dag, and the Great Fish rivers, which last, though the most con- siderable, has not a course of more than 200 miles. In Caffraria, a number of small rivers flow into the Indian Ocean : of these, the stream most known is the Great Kei, about 120 miles in length. Southern Africa abounds in animals of various kinds, many of which are of the largest size : the elephant, hippopotamus, rhino- ceros, lion, and camelopard, are the principal. The zebra, quagga, leopard, jackal, hyena, and many other smaller species of quadru- peds are numerous. Antelopes and gazelles also abound : the former are of great variety, and assemble in herds of many thou- sands. The Gnu is a peculiar animal, resembling at the same time the horse, the buffalo, and the stag ; it is the size of a small horse, and extremely swift; the horns are large, sharp, and crooked. This animal is furnished with a strong mane on the back of the neck, and a long beard, which depends from the lower part of the chin : like the bull and the buffalo, it becomes furious at the sight of scarlet. The ox is the chief domestic animal in this region. It is nu- merous in all quarters, and is used not only as a beast of draught, but is ridden like ♦ho horse ; and, by some of the interior tribes, it is trained for warlike purposes. The horse is scarce, and is found only in the colony. The sheep of these countries are mostly of the fat-tailed breed. The population of this part of Africa rnay be divided into the following classes: 1st. The British, comprising the officers of government, the troops, and a few thousand agricultural emi- grants. 2d. The Dutch, who farm most of the lands in the colony, and constitute the chief part of the population of Oape Town. 3d. The Hottentots, the native race, part of whom were, ibr a long period, slaves to the colonists. Of the other Hotten- tots, the chief part includes various pastoral tribes, and the re- mainder, the Bushmen, or Wild Hottentots. 4th. The Calfres, inhabiting the country extending along the Indian Ocean. 5th. The Boshuaiia^, who occupy the territory lying northward of the .17 * ■ !■ : :■ I'M f- , i t UP i:^[ 558 AFRICA. I)' ,. -t m: I it). . t^ i Hottentot country. Besides these different races, there are indi- viduals called Bastaards, the Cape term for any coloured person with an admixture of European blood, however small. CAPE COLONY. The Cafe Colony occupies the most southern extremity of Africa : it extends from east to west 650, and from north to south 23U miles. Area, 120,000 square miles: population, 150,000. This region was discovered by the Portuguese in 1 4,98 ; settled by the Dutch in 1650 ; twice conquered from them by Great Britain ; and finally confirmed to that power in 1815. A consi- derable portion of this territory consists of mountains of naked sandstone, or of the great Karroo plain, whose hard, dry soil is scarcely ever moistened by a drop of rain. The finest part of the Colony is the narrow plain along the sea-coast, which has a deep nnd fertile soil, and is well watered by numerous rivulets. At the foot of the Snowy Mountains, beyond the Great Karroo, there is an excellent grazing country, where cattle are raised in great numbers. The changes in the atmosphere are frequent and sudden ; grain of good quality, wine and fruits for the supply of the Colony, are all produced within the distance of one to three days' journey from Cape Town, but most of the territory is devoted to pasturage. The agriculture is generally slovenly; 14 or 16 oxen being fre- quently used to draw an unwieldy plough, that only skims the surface. The Dutch farmers, or boors, of whom grazing forms almost the sole occupation, are generally very ignorant and indolent, but extremely hospitable. They live in rude plenty, surrounded by their flocks and herds ; and had, until lately, numbers of Hotten- tot slaves, who are now emancipated. The eastern part of the Colony, called the District of Albany, was settled in 1820, by British emigrants, whose prospects were for a time discouraging, but of late have been much improved. The people carry on a lucrative trade with the interior tribes. Cape Town, the capital of the Colony, is built at the foot of Table Mountain ; it is situated about 30 miles north of the Cape of Good Hope, and is an important station, being the only place of refreshment for vessels between Europe and America on one side, and the East Indies, China, and Australia on the other. This place must, in consequence, always be a great commercial tho roughfare. The Dutch Society at the Cape is extremely mercan- tile ; and Hoopman, or Merchant, is held as a title of honour. SOUTHEUN AFRICA. 559 Since the occupation by its present possessors, the residence of the civil and military ofticers, and numerous British emigrants, have given it much the character of an English town. Cape Town is strongly foriified, and contains a college, public library, botani- cal garden, menagerie, &c.: population, upwards of 20,000. The other towns in the Colony are, in general, only villages. Constantia and Simon's Town in the close vicinity of the Cape, are supported, the one by tkse produce of wine, the other by docks for shipping. >^lellenbosch and Zweilendam, the chief places in the two most flourishing agricultural districts, adjoining, can hardly aspire to the rank of towns. Graaf Keynct and Uitenhage, at the head of extensive districts in the east, are not more important. Gnadenthal has been made a neat village by the missionaries, who have fixed it as their principal station. Graham's Town, a recent settlement near the eastern extremity of the Colony, has risen to some importance. It is an ill-built, straggling place, containing a population of about 3000, consisting chiefly of British emigrants : it is romantically situated in a deep valley, surrounded by hills and glens. CAFFRARIA. Cafprabia, or the Country of the CafTres, extends eastward from the Ca[)e Colony, along the shores of the Indian Ocean, to the river St. Lucia, being about 650 miles in length, and from 130 to 150 miles in breadth. To its coasts the Portuguese have given the name of Natal, from the circumstance of being discovered on Christmas day, 1498 : this title is made use of by navigators, but is altogether unknown to the natives. The Caffres, called also Koussas, appear to be either a distinct people, or a mixture of the negro and the Arab. They are an active, vigorous race, of a deep brown colour, with features almost Eu- ropean, and frizzled but not woolly hair. In their habits they are pastoral, and have large herds of horned cattle, which they teach to follow and come at their call. Milk is the chief food of the Cafltes ; they seldom kill any of their oxen : and owing to their roving way of life, do not depend much upon agriculture. Caffre-corn, a peculiar species, somewhat resembling Indian- corn, but in which the grain grows in a bunch like grapes, millet, pumpkins, watermelons, and tobacco, are sometimes cultivated by the women ; the latter also construct inclosures for the cattle, make utensils, clothes, and rush mats, and baskets of reeds, so closely woven as to hold milk and other liquids. They likewise . - 1 i !• 4 1 1 1 1 1 I m i I hi; 1 W-:: ¥4'' 500 A V R I C A . r,iit wood and build huts in the shape of a dome, and thtitihod with straw. '''ho employments of the men are war, hunting, and tending cat;. •, Tlieir weapons are the assugay, shield, and club ; the first is a short spear which they throw to soiiK" distance with surprising accuracy. The Cadres, like the Chiuf.'so, consider all other nii- tions inferior tj themselves, and suppose that Euroixians wear clothes merely on account of having feeble and aickly bodies. These people have scarcely any religious ideas: some of thi^m, however, profess to believe that a (ireat Bei^ * came from above and made the world, after which he returnet ind cared no rnoie about it. The Caffres comprise the Tambookies, Mambookies, and Zoo- las; the last-named are the most numerous and warlike of all the tribes. Several contests between the ( 'affres and the Cape Colo- nists have, at different times, taken place, which have terminated generally in the latter extending their territory eastward, into Caf- fraria. At Port Natal, a station settled by alw.it 5000 Dutch boors from the Cape, several bloody battles were lately thought with the forces of Dingarn, a Zoola chief, which, after various turns of fortune, resulted in the success of the whites. Several missionary stations had been established in tfie southern parts of this region, where schools for the instruction of the native children were formed, and churches established, at which many Caffres attended. The recent wars, however, with the British have rVgstroyed, in a great measure, the good effects produced by these .'nstitutions, and forced nearly all the missionaries to leave the country. HOTTENTOTS. Between Cape Colony and the Boshuana territories, there is an extensive tract of country, stretching from Caffraria, westward, to the Atlantic. Ocean, inhabited by various tribes known under the general name of Hottentots. On the Atlantic coast are the Namaquas ; their country, espe- cially that on the north of the Orange river, is, in many parts of it, fertile and well adapted for pasturage. North-west of these are the Damarasy who are also pastoral in their habits. They are much darker than any of the other Hottentots, and bear a strong resemblance to the negro race. The Corannas occupy a central country of considerable extent, which rears cattle in abundance. The Bushmen^ or wild Hottentots, inhabit the country in the SOUTIIEKN AFRICA. 601 Lchorf with id tending ; the first surprising other nii- mna wear dy bodies. D of them, rom above d no inoie I, and Zoo- le of all the Cape Coio- terminatod ■d, into Caf- )000 Dutch ■ fought with ous turns of the southern of the native which many British have ced by these to leave the vicinity and north of the Snowy Mountains. Thtsu people are .sciual, cxccHsively lean, and possess a. wild, unsteady expression ot countenance. They have no settled place of residence, but wander about tlio country in families, and subsist on roots, grass- hoppera, toads, lizards, &c.; they always use poisoned arrows in war, or in destroying wild beasts ; and it is singular that the sting of the scorpion, dangerous to all other human beings, has no efiect on these savages. The Colonial Hottentots^ upwards of 30,000 in number, were lately emancipated from slavery. Though indolent and dull, they are quiet, honest, and '' tionate, and possess an excessive loud- ness for trinkets sm^ The Hottentots sh brown complexion, with black, woolly hair, high ci ,rnall eyes, and thick lips ; they are of a moderate hei- m, .cai-. m person, and altogether unprepos- sessing in appearance. Their fi'th and indolence, and the harsh- ness and poverty of their language, led the Europeans to consider them as little better than brutes, and by their treatment they al- most reduced them to that condition. But kinder usage, adopted by the missionaries, has shown them to be capable of improve- ment, and not to be wanting in ingenuity and industry. Their A'llagcs, called Kraals, are circular clusters of beehive- shaped huts, which are covered with mats woven by the women ; an opening in front serves as a door, window, and a chimney. The Hottentots, at several of the missionary stations, now cul- tivate the ground, own largo numbers of cattle, exercise various trades, and contribute liberally to the support of religious and charitable institutions, exhibiting such improvement as affords a striking proof of the power of Christianity to elevate men from the lowest point of intellectual and moral depression. >ries, there is ■ia, westward, tnown under !ountry, espe- lany parts of st of these are ts. Thev iire bear a strong upy a central abundance. lountry in the BOSHUANAS. The country of the Boshuanas is bounded on the east by Caf- fraria; on the west by the extensive desert c' Challahengah, or Karri Harri ; on the south is the Hottentot territory, which sepa- rates it from the colony of the Cape ; while on the north is the domain of various tribes but little known. The Boshuanas are not so tall and athletic as the Caffres, but appear to be a nearly similar people, and have made greater pro- gress in industry and the arts. They dwell in towns of some magnitude, and cultivate the ground, raising millet, beans, gourds, watermelons, &c. Their herds of cattle are numerous, which the I 'I ' "Jill 1' ■^% ^. ^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) t 1.0 I.I 11.25 ISillS |2.s ^ 1^ 12.2 atuu 1.4 11.6 Hiotographic Sdences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WiCBSTM.N.Y. MS80 (716)172-4903 4^ ' \ -i 562 AFRICA. 1 if'' 1 :■: ■ M 1,,,.,.., , .| men, as '^.mong the CafTres, both tend and milk, while the females till the soil and build the houses. These people place their glory in commandoes, or forays, un- dertaken with a view of carrying off cattle and murdering the owners. In consequence of this mutual hostility, the population is almost entirely concentrated in towns or their immediate vicinity ; these are in consequence larger than might be expected in this part of Africa. New Lattakoo, Meribohwey, Mashow, Melita, and Kurrechane appear to be the principal towns ; the latter, 1000 miles from Cape Town, is the largest in this region ; and here the inhabitants have made the greatest progress in the arts of life. They work skil- fully in iron, copper, leather, earthen- ware, &c. Their houses are surrounded by good stone inclosures, and the walls of mud are oflen painted, as well as moulded into ornamental shapes. The population, when first visited, was about 16,000, but is now reduced in consequence of having been sacked by the Mantatees, a wandering and predatory tribe, who overran, some years ago, a considerable part of this and the neighbouring country of Caf- fraria. EASTERN AFRICA. Eastern Africa comprises a vast extent of coast, reaching from Abyssinia to Caffraria, a length of upwards of 3000 miles. This extensive region contains a large proportion of fertile territory, capable of yielding the most valuable productions ; yet scarcely any part of the world is less known, or has excited less interest among Europeans. The Portuguese, as soon as they had disco- vered a passage into the Indian seas, occupied all the leading ma- ritime stations, from which they studiously excluded every other people. The country consists almost entirely of spacious plains, often covered with extensive forests. Two or three hundred miles in the interior, considerable ranges of mountains arise, which geogra- phers have called Lupata, or the Spine of the World. The rivers are of considerable magnitude, though only their lower courses are at present known. The Zambeze, which flows into the channel of Mozambique, is the most important stream of Eastern Africa. Its current is extremely rapid, which renders its upward navigation tedious and difficult. The Pangany, Ozee, Juba and Webbe, farther to the north, are reported to be large rivers, though nothing has been ascertained of their commence- ment and course. The only lake known in this quarter is the Maravi, which is said to be of great extent, and salt like the ocean. EASTERN AFRICA. 563 This territory is generally occupied by brown or black nations, who, however, bear no resemblance to the true negroes except in colour ; some of them are partially improved, and are not wholly destitute of arts and industry. The coast has, in modern times, been chieHy in possession of two foreign powers, the Portuguese and Arabs. The former, on their first appearance on these shores, found all the principal maritime stations in the hands of the latter, whom they succeeded in driving successively from each, and occupying their place. The Arabs have, however, regained their ancient predominance on some parts of the coast. The Country of the Somaulies, the most northern part of Eastern Africa, is situated along the shores of the Gulf of Aden, and to the eastward of Abyssinia. It is hilly and beautiful, and may be considered the native region of incense, myrrh, and sweet- smelling gums. The inhabitants are rigid Mahomedans; they are an active, industrious race of people, of a bright olive com- plexion, with regular, pleasing features, and long soil hair, which they allow to flow in ringlets over their shoulders. Adel and Berbora are the principal territories occupied by the Somaulies. Adel occupies that part of the coast immediately adjacent to the straits of Babelmandel ; the inhabitants of this country waged long and bloody wars, embittered by religious enmity, against Abyssinia. For a century back, their power has been greatly reduced, and they are now divided into a number of small sepa- rate states. Zeyla, the capital, is a place of considerable trade, and, though irregularly built, contains some good habitations. Berbora, the principal Somaulie state, is an extensive country, and is said to stretch into the interior many days' journey. Hur- rur, an inland town, is the residence of the sultan of the Somaulies. Berbora is the chief commercial port : here a great annual fair is held, at which large quantities of gum-arabic, frankincense, and myrrh, are sold. This place is visited by Arab and Hindoo tra- ders : the latter come from Cutch, in Hindoostan, near the mouth of the Indus, 1800 miles distant, in open undecked boats. Gold and ivory are brought to Berbora from the inland districts, twenty days' journey. The countries in the interior from this coast, though imperfectly known, appear to be occupied by the Galla and other tribes, who surpass in barbarism even the rest of Africa. Here, in a wild and mountainous region, is the kingdom of Ginoiro, ruled by a despot elected with rude and savage ceremonies, and who celebrates his accession by the death of his predecessor's ministers and favourites* with whose blood the walls and gates of the palaces are dyed. W. ijm, mUN' " \^ 564 AFRICA. Ajan, which on the north joins Berbora, extends from Cape Guardafui to Magadoxa. This country is generally arid and sandy, though in the northerly parts it becomes hilly and fragrant, like the neighbouring region of Berbora. The coast is but little frequented, being rocky and destitute of good harbours. The in- habitants Bre fierce, warlike, and hostile to strangers. Zanouebar. — ^The country lying south of Ajan, and extending from Cape Bassas to Cape Delgado, is called Zanguebar or Zan- zibar. It contains several distinct states, of which but little is known ; of these, the principal appear to be Magadoxa, Mombas and Quiloa. This territory, when discovered by the Portuguese, was occupied by the^ Sohilies, a peaceable and industrious people ; but the coest has now been mostly wrested from them by the Arabs of Muscat, while much of the interior is possessed by the Galla, the same ferocious race who have conquered the southern parts of Abyssinia, and who, in the course of a furious warfare, have destroyed every sea-port on this coast which was not pro- tected by an insular position. Magadoxa extends from Cape Bassas to the equator : its limits mland have not been ascertained. The prince of this territory having succeeded in maintaining his independence and repelling all European intercourse, does not allow the country to be ex- plored : it is in consequence but very little known. The capital, a town of the same name as the country, makes a handsome appearance from the sea. It contains many lofly stone fabrics ; but these belong to a part which, comprising only tombs, may be called the City of the Dead. The habitations of the living are low thatched huts. A considerable trade with the interior regions is said to be car on. Brava, in the southern part oi gadoxa, is a small Arab town and territory, having a triding commerce. Melinda, which stri:.xheu from the equator to Mombas, was at the time the Portuguese Hrst became acquainted with these regions, and for a considerable time afterwards, the most powerful and im- portant kingdom on the coast ; but it ho.s been long in a state of decay, and was lately overrun and destroyed by the savage Galla. Melinda, the capital, once a handsome and flourishing city and a great commercial emporium, is now completely destroyed ; it was conquered by the Portuguese at an early period, but it was taken from them by the Arabs in 1698. Patta, formerly a town of considerable note, has lost its importance, and the chief part of its trade has been transferred to the neighbouring flourishing port of Lamoo. EASTERN AFRICA. 505 rrom Cape ' arid and id fragrant, is but little . The in- i extending jar or Zan- but little is ca, Mombas Portuguese, ous people ; iiem by the ssed by the he southern )us warfare, ras not pro- ':• I )r : its limits his territory nd repelling ry to be ex- ntry, makes many lofty prising only abitations of ade with the Arab town nbas, was at icse regions, srful and im- in a state of avage Galla. ling city and lestroyed ; it d, but it was lerly a town chief part of arishing port MoMBAs, south of Melinda, is fertile in grain and well adapted for the sugar-cane ; the small shells, called cowries, are collected in great abundano along its shores. The town of Mombas is situ- ated on a small island surrounded by high cliffs which make it a kind of natural castle. The harbour is excellent, and a consider- able trade is carried on along the coast in dows, (Arab vessels whose planks are sewed together,) often of 250 tons burthen. QuiLOA, situated to the northward of Cape Delgado, was found by the Portuguese, a great seat of power and commerce, and be- came a part of their territory. About the end of the seventeenth century it was v< rested from them by the Imam of Muscat, whose officers have since governed it. The city of Quiloa, once a great emporium, has long since dwindled into a miserable village. Portuguese Possessions. — On this coast the Portuguese at pre- sent claim authority from Cape Delgado to Delagoa Bay, a region about 1300 miles in length, and extending for some distance into the interior. This territory they denominate the government of Mozambique ; but their power is exercised at only a few detached points, and is much less regarded by the natives than formerly. Querimba, Sena, Sofala, Sabia, and Inhambane are districts in- cluded in this government. The Bororas and Makooas are populous and savage tribes in the interior, who live to the westward of Mozambique and north of the Zambeze river : the latter are said to be cannibals. Mozambique, the principal settlement of the Portuguese in East- ern Africa, is situated 300 miles north of the mouth of the Zam- beze river. It has hitherto derived its importance from being the emporium of the trade brought from the interior down that stream, but which has been, in a great measure, transferred to Quillimane. The traffic in slaves, the most extensive, has been much dimin- ished since the British obtained possession of Mauritius and the Cape, and prohibited the introduction of them into these colonies. Quillimane, at the mouth of the Zambeze, is now the chief seat of commerce on this part of the coast. The situation is swampy and unhealthy ; the population is about 3000, mostly negroes. Gold, ivory, and slaves are the chief exports : the last are sent principally to Rio .laneiro. In the interior, on the Upper Zambeze, the Portuguese possess merely the small forts of Sena and Tete, erected with a view to the protection of their trade ; with two, still smaller, in the more remote stations of Zumbo and Manica. The country is generally fertile, and produces, besides the necessaries of life, honey, wax, senna, and other drugs. , 48 if i :i f I (ill m -;; '•'! ■;. 'i |f|f I til:' ^j •:,:;•;■* •.■4 ■■,.! f '!'■ 566 AFRICA. Sofala, supposed by some to be the Ophir whence Solomon drew large supplies of gold and precious stones, was, at the time of the first arrival of Europeans, an important commercial empo- rium ; but since Quillimane has engrossed the trade of the coast, this place has sunk into a village of poor huts. The Portuguese, however, still maintain there a fort, which holds supremacy over the districts of Sabia and Inhambane. Sabia, immediately south of Sofala, is thinly settled, although the soil is fertile ; in the most southern part of this territory is In- hambane; the chief town is of the same designation: it has an excellent harbour, and is defended by a fort and 150 men. The other Portuguese do not exceed twenty-five, but there is a numer- ous coloured population. MoNOMOTAPA, or MoTAPA, situatcd westward from Sofala, and southward from the Zambeze river, has been dignified in the early narratives with the title of empire. If it ever deserved such an appellation, it is now broken into fragments, the largest of which was some time ago held by the Changamera, a chief represented a& a great conqueror, but of whom no very precise or recent in- Ibrmation has reached us. He belonged to the Maravi, a race of daring freebooters, who neglect agriculture and devote themselves entirely to plunder. Manica is celebrated as the country chiefly affording the gold for which this part of Africa is famous. A small fort is maintained here by the Portuguese. Cazembe, a country situated 900 or 1000 miles in the interior, is said to be densely inhabited. The country, the capital, and the sovereign appear to be all of the same name ; the latter is abso- lute in power, and rules despotically. This territory yields, in abundance, iron and copper, and also some gold, and is the seat of a very considerable trade in ivory and slaves. The inhabitants belong to the Moviza, who are a comparatively peaceable and in- dustrious people. These, with the Maravi before mentioned, are the predominant races in this quarter. CENTRAL AFRICA. Central Africa comprises all the interior parts of the conti- nent, stretching from the Great Desert south to the equator and the confines of Guinea, and from Senegambia on the west to Dar- fiir on the east, extending in length about 2000, and from 500 to 1000 miles in width. A great proportion of this region is yet entirely unknown to Christian nations ; and it is only within the last forty or fifty years :e Solomon at the time erciul empu- )f the coast, Portuguese, remacy over led, although rritory is In- 1 : it has an I men. The 1 is a numer- u Sofala, and d in the early fved such an rest of which jf represented or recent in- ■avi, a race of 3te themselves ountry chiefly 3 famous. A in the interior, apital, and the latter is abso- ory yields, in nd is the seat le inhabitants :eable and in- nentioned, are s of the conti- he equator and le west to Dar- from 500 to ly unknown to y or fifty years CENTRAL AFRICA. 567 that the courage and enterprise of the celebrated travellers. Park, Denhr.m and Clapperton, Caille, and the brothers Landers, have explored some detached portions of its territory. The Mountains of the Moon, though known to the ancients by the same name, are still unexf 'ored, and have never been visited by any Christian traveller : the mountains of Abyssinia arc sup- posed to bo connected with them on the east, and those of Kong on the west, and they are generally represented in that manner on maps : they would thus form a range of near 4000 miles ir extent. These mountains, south of Darfur, are, according to native report, constantly covered with snow, which, in that latitude, would give them an elevation of near 15,000 feet above the level of the ocean. The Kong Mountains, however, where crossed by British travellers west of the Niger, were found not to exceed from 2500 to 3000 feet in height. The long-renowned Niger, for ages involved in such deep mys- tery, appears to be the chief river of Central Africa : though much of its course is unexplored, yet it is known to rise about 200 miles inland from Sierra Leone ; thence passing in a north-east direction towards Timbuctoo, it appears to take a great bend to the south- ward, and after flowing through various territories, pours its vast mass of waters into the Gulf of Guinea, forming one of the greatest deltas in the world ; its estuaries covering a space of 200 miles. The whole extent of this great stream is but little less than 3000 miles. In the upper part of its course it is called the Joliba, and in the lower the Quorra. The Tsadda, the principal known branch of the Niger, and the Shary and Yeou, which flow into lake Tchad, are the other chief rivers of this region. In this part of Africa there are but few lakes : the most pre- eminent is the Tchad, situated to the eastward of Bornou ; it is almost 200 miles long and 150 wide, and contains numerous large islands, inhabited by savage tribes, said to be infidels and pirates. The Dibbie, Delo, or Dark Lake, forced by the Niger about 200 miles above Timbuctoo, is much less extensive. The names of lake Filtre and others, lying east of the Tchad, have been vaguely reported ; but of their situation and character, geographers are Ignorant. Central Africa may be considered aj divided into two great sec- tions ; that on the north of the Mountains of the Moon, is known by the appellation of Soudan, or Nigritia, of which some portions have been explored by Christian travellers ; and the other, extend- ing southward to the equator, and by some denominated Ethiopia, is, as regards our knowledge of it, a vast blank ; no European having ever penetrated into its remote and unknown territories. Agriculture is practised over the whole of Central Africa, though 'i ' 1 'I 'II 568 AFRICA. in a very rudo manner. The plough appears never to have passed the desert ; the only instrument for turning up the ground being the hoe, which does Uttle more than scratch the surface ; yet the fertility of the soil produces abundant crops. Gussub, a species of millet, is the chief product of Bornou, which, instead of being formed into bread, is merely boiled into a paste. In Houssa, two crops of wheat are produced in the year ; and the markets are abundantly supplied with fruits and vegetables. Rice is raised co- piously on the inundated banks of the Niger ; and Indian-corn, cot- ton, and indigo, are produced in nearly all quarters. Commerce, throughout this region, is carried on with some ac- tivity, though in modes rather (peculiar. Maritime trade is pre- cluded by its situation, far distant from any coast. Even river navigation is not practised with much diligence, unless on the Niger. Various commodities are conveyed by large troops, some- times res(Mi)bling little armies, called caravans, katilas, or coffles. Those which pass between Northern and Central Africa, across the immense expanse of the desert, employ camels, so admirably fitted by Providence for the service of man in that dreary region. In the wooded and mountainous tracts of Western and Southern Soudan, burdens are chiefly conveyed by means of asses ; while in the great fertile plains of Iloussu and l^yeo, the human head is the most frequent vehicle. Salt, in large quantities, is brought from pits in the interior of the desert ; and kolla-nuts, a favourite luxury, are transported from the western districts over all parts of this region. The returns made to the countries on the sea-coast consist of gold, ivory, and slaves. War, in Central Africa, is carried on with all the ferocity of the most barbarous nations : extensive tracts, formerly populous and flourishing, were seen by recent travellers reduced, by it, to a state of entire desolation. Many of the contests that take place in these countries arise from the system of slave-huntmg, carried on against the pagan tribes of the southern mountainous districts, which the Fellatas and Bornouese look upon as a grand entertainment, though sometimes they fail in the accomplishment of their object. The armies of the various states of Soudan consist chieflv of a turbulent militia, who take the field on the summons of the prince, and support themselves by plunder. The military lorce of Bornou and Begharmi consists of cavalry, which has a very martial ap- pearance ; the horses, as well as their riders, being completely enveloped in chain and sometimes in plate armour ; these troops, however, are generally cowardly and inefficient. The Kanemboo spearmen, organized by the present Sheik of Bornou, form the most regular and eflfective force in Interior Africa. They march with merely a skin around their waist, and their only weapons are CENTRAL AFRICA. 560 avc passed ound being e; yet the ), a species d of being loussa, two narkcts are 3 raised co- n*corn, cot- th so«ie ac- ade is pre- Even river less on the •oops, some- s, or cofflcs. frica, across io admirably •eary region, ind Southern asses; while iman head is 3, is brought 3, a favourite |r all parts of he sea-coast erocity of the )opulous and f it, to a state >lace in these ed on against ts, which the ' ment, though jject. chiefly of a of the p'rince, rce of Bornou y martial ap- g completely these troops, he Kanemboo lou, form the They march weapons are a long shield and a spenr. Fire-arms are almost unknown, the most powerful princes having only a few inferior muskets. The caravan followers, armed with these weapons, are thus superior to thousands of their opponents, and often decide the battle Ijetwcen the greatest sovereigns. In religion, the inhabitants are pretty equally divided between the Pagan and Mahomedan. The adherents of the latter do not strictly conform to the recluse and contracted habits of life gene- rally prevailing among nations of that profession : the females are by no means so closely immured, and intoxicating liquors are not rigidly abstained from. One fixed article of belief among them is, that they may lawfully reduce to slavery all the kerdies, or pa- gans, who people the southern mountain districts. Learning, throughout Central Africa, appears in a very depressed state. The reading even of the Koran is confined to a very few of the great fighis, or doctors. Its verses are chiefly employed as amulets to secure triumph over enemies, or success in the different pursuits of life ; and a person capable of writing these is held in high estimation. Extemporary poetry, sung by the composers, is repeated at almost all the African courts. Singing men and sing- ing women are constant attendants on the chiefs and caboceers : their songs, however, are generally conceived in terms of the grossest flattery. The government in these countries is completely despotic ; and in most of the states, the homage paid to rulers and grandees is far more abject and debasing than in any civilized empire : yet their dwellings, usual attire, and daily habits, differ little from those of their meanest subjects. The kings have no regular revenue, or income, but enrich themselves by presents, and by taxing the passing caravans ; they also carry on a good deal of traffic, in which they scruple not to employ both force and stratagem for their own advantage. Kaarta, the most western state in Sc jdan, is a somewhat ex- tensive kingdom, with a sandy but moderately fertile soil. The capital is Kemnioo. Manding, the original country of the Man- dingoes, south-east from Kaarta, is a mountainous and rather ste- rile region. in which gold is found to some extent in the sand of the streams and rivers. Bour^, Kankan, VVasskla, &c., are countries situated on the head waters of the Niger : of these, Boure abounds in gold. Kankaiv is famous for the great market held at its chief town, at which not only gold and all the products of this part oi' the world, but European goods in great variety, arms, powder, &c., are exhibited for sale. Wassela is a rich territory, inhabited by an industrious and hospitable people. Kong, Dag- 48* \t\ !l: I '! i i iiffl ' il 570 AFRICA. If "'-^ ■*^ -f '.'',1'! r ■■.!;'; ;■ 'su 2i 1 Wf!pi\ wuMBA, Gaou, &c., are countries sitimted between the Niger river and the Kong mountains, whose names are known only from na< tive report. BA9i]tAitUA consists of a fertile and well-cultivated territory, through which the Niger flows for about 300 miles. In Mr. Park's time it comprised one kingdom, but now appears to be divided into two, which, in reference to their situation on the Niger river, may be termed Upper Bamiiarra and Lower Uamiiarra ; the latter appears to be the most powerful state, and was governed, in 1828, by Sego Ahmadou, a Fellata chief. His capital is El Lamdou, a town lying east of the Niger, and some distance north of Jenne. Sego, the capital of Upper Bambarra, is built on both sides of the Niger, and contains 30,000 inhabitants. At this place, the numerous canoes on the river, the crowded population, and tho cultivated state of the surrounding country, exhibit altogether a scene of civilization and improvement scarcely to be expected in the centre of Africa. Sansanding, a great commercial town higher up the Niger, contains 10,000 people. Bammakoo, where the Niger first becomes navigable for large canoes ; Maraboo, a great market for salt ; Samee and Silla, near the eastern frontier, are all considerable towns on the Niger. Jenne, the chief city of Lower Bambarra, is built on a branch of the Niger, and is a place of great commercial importance ; its merchants, chiefly Moors, trade with Sego, Timbuctoo, and other places on the river by means of large boats. M. Caille found the merchants of this city more polished than any other class of per- sons he met with in Central Africa. Population from 8000 to 10,000. North of Bambarra are the kingdoms of Massina and BerOo, of which the former is inhabited by the Foulahs, and the latter is famous for its trade in salt. The capital is Walet, said to be largo and important. Baeooo and Maniana are countries lying east- ward of Bambarra, known only by name : the inhabitants of the latter are reported to be cannibals. Timbuctoo is a territory situated on the Niger river, 1000 miles from the nearest coast ; it was once an important kingdom, whose authority extended over Houssa and the neighbouring countries, but is now a subject state under the dominion of the Fellatas. Its celebrated capital, being the place where the caravans from Mo- rocco, and most of those from Algiers and Tunis, first touch on the fertile regions of Central Africa, must, always possess great commercial importance^ and a dep6t is found there of the commo- dities which it affords for exchange with other countries. Gold, and still more, slaves, arc the staple articles. The city of Timbuctoo has been for several hundred years the KASTEUN AFIilCA. 571 »Jigcr river r from na- 1 territory, Mr. Park's lividcd into river, may ; the latter id, in 1828, Lamdou, a of Jenne. th sides of I place, the on, and tho altogether a expected in ercial town akoo, where Maraboo, a tern frontier, on a branch portance; its o, and other lie found the class of per- 00 to 10,000. and BerOo, the latter is d to be largo ;s lying east- tants of the , 1000 miles idom, whose ig countries, ^ellatas. Its s from Mo- rst touch on jossess great the commo- tries. Gold, red years the most noted emporium in Central Africa, and has long excited great attention lor its supposed riches. M. Caille, who visited Timbuctoo in 1828, and the only European who has ever returned from that city, has disp«;lled, in a great measure, the reputation it enjoyed for wealth and importance. According to that traveller, tho popu- lation is chiefly negroes, and about 12,000 in number. The city stands eight miles north of tho Niger, in the midst of deserts of moving sand. It consists of ilUbuilt earthen houses, and contains seven mosques. Timbuctoo is about 1400 miles south- west from Tripoli ; 1000 from Morocco, and probably not less than 1500 or 1000 from the ocean by the course of the river. HoussA is an extensive territory, situated in the centre of Sou- dan and lying east of the Niger river; it is more elevated, and has a climate less sultry than Bornou or any of the neighbouring dis- tricts : travellers have even occasionally suffered from cold. The soil is rich and fertile, and the face of the country exhibits evident marks of superior cultivation and a superior people. This region is in possession of the Fellatas, an active warlike race, said to be similar to the Foulahs of Western Africa. They are supposed to have emigrated originally from that quarter, and have been, since the commencement of the present century, the most prominent nation in Central Africa : about that period they conquered Houssa, and several other countries on the Niger, l)e- sides Bornou, which last, however, they retained but a short time. The Fellatas are a tall and well-made people of a light bronze complexion, and with features approximating to the European. Soccatoo, the capital of Houssa, and the residence of Sultan Bello, the Fellata sovereign, is the most populous city in Central Africa. The houses are built closer than usual, and more regu- larly laid out in streets. The place is surrounded by a high wall, with twelve gates always shut at sunset. Population, 60,000. Kano, lying about 200 miles south-east from Soccatoo, is the centre of an extensive commerce. It is a walled city, 16 miles in circumfor^jnce. The houses, however, are built in a very scattered manner, and, like Kashna, Zaria, Youri, Eyeo, and other cities in this quarter, they occupy but a small part of the circuit inclosed by its walls. The inhabitants amount to 30,000. Kashna, to the north of Kano, is also a considerable city ; its walls, however, encircle ten times the space occupied by its in- habitants. This city is the seat of a considerable trade with Bor- nou, Timbuctoo, and with caravans coming across the desert by the way of Gadames and Tuat. South of Kano is Zegzeg, one of the finest and most fertile dis- tricts in Soudan. Zaria, the capital, has a population of 40,000. m I^',f;fl ■..,1 I '■I ii iif^v • ; 373 AFRICA. Cuttup is a collection of 500 villages, or rathnr clusters of houses, covering a beautiful plain : it forms the market for a great extent of country. Farther south, occupying a mountainous region, arc the Yam Yams, a savage race, who, some time ago, arc said to have killed and eaten a whole caravan. Dunrora and Jacoba, the latter situated on the Tsadda, with Adomowa and Karowa farther to the east, are all places reported of some note, situated in the midst of Icrtilo and well-settled districts. The countries on the lower course of the Niger form an exten- sive and important part of Central Africa. Being copiously wa- tered, they yield rice and other valuable species of grain in abun- dance. The inhabitants arc negroes, but the Fellatas are making ropid encroachments, and several of the states have been conquered by them and converted to the Mahomedan faith. YouRi consists of a very fertile plain, peculiarly fitted for the production of rice. The city of the same name, built on the east bank of the Niger, is encompassed by high walls, which inclose a circuit of twenty or thirty miles, comprising corn-fields and pas- ture-grounds, with here and there a cluster of huts interspersed. The people, being numerous and brave, have repelled every attempt by the Fellatas to subdue them. BoussA. — The kingdom of Boussa lies immediately below Youri on the Niger. The capital is a considerable town, situated in the midst of a fertile and well-cultivated country. The Niger, immediately above and below Boussa, presents a r.iagnificent body of water : in passing that city, however, it is obstructed by the rocks and straits, among which the lamented Park lost his life. BoROOo, situated west of Boussa, is a confederacy of small, in- dependent states ; the country is composed, in a great measure, of rugged mountain tracts, interspersed with fertile and beautiful valleys. Kiama, the only part of Borgoo visited by English trav- ellers, is inhabited by a courageous and warlike people. Y'arriba on the west, and Nyffe on the east side of the Ni- ger, occupy the banks of that stream below Borgoo. The former is an extensive state, well cultivated and densely peopled. The loom is busily plied, though its products are not equal to those in the neighbouring country of NyfTe. Eyeo, the metropolis of Yar- riba, is 15 miles in circumference : the population, however, can scarcely even be conjectured. \ , Nyffk, now in possession of the Fellatas, is a very fine coun- try, occupied by the most industrious and improved of all the ne- gro nations. Their cotton cloths are held in the highest estimation. Rabbn, the capital, is considered one of the largest towns in this iiii EA8TEUN At'lUCA. 57 ;{ jf houses, 3Qt extent cgion, arc re said to acoba, the wa farther itcd in the nn oxten- •iously wa- n in abun- ire making I conquered tied for the on the east lich inclose ds and pas- nterspersed. rery attempt below Youri I, situated in [The Niger, lificent body ictcd by the st his life. of small, in- 3at measure, md beautiful Inglish trav- e. e of the Ni- The former jopled. The al to those in )olis of Yar- lowever, can ry fine coun- )f all the ne- !st estimation, towns in this quarter. The mats made there are reckoned siijicrior to nil others in Africa. Kgga, the southernmost town of Nytfe, extends four iiiiles along the bunks of the Niger, u id has numerous boats l)0' longing to it. The population is half Mahomcdun, hiilf i'a|i;un. The states which extend down the river I'rom Nylle consist of little more than single towns, each governed by its own chief, with little or no mutual dem;ndencc. Kacunda, imdor the absolute sway of a single chiet, contains a peaceable, industrious, and friendly people. About Ibrty miles below Kacunda, the Niger re- ceives its greatest tributary, the Tsadda : coming from the east, its origin and early course are, however, unknown. At the jun(;tion, it is little inferior to the main stream, and is navigated by nume- rous boats. To this point, the Niger was ascended, a few years ago, by the steum-vessels Quorra and Alburka. Funda, reported the greatest emporium of this part of Africa, is about three days' sail up the Tsadda. Towns of some importance continue to occur in the course of the Niger downwards. Bocqua, al)out 80 miles l)elow Kacunda, is the seat of a very large market, much frequented : it is followed by Abbazaca and Dammagoo. Kirre, a \avjj trading town, is about 50 miles below Ik>cqua. Here commences the Delta of tho Niger, which at this place detaches a branch supposed to flow to Benin. Seventy miles below Kirre is a large town situated in tho midst of a territory called the Eboe country : it forms the great mart from which the ports on the coast arc supplied with slaves and palm-oil. ■ BoRNou is one of the most important states in Centi-al Africa ; it extends about 200 miles in every direction to the westwai ^ of lake Tchad. The poopU), called Kanowry, are negroes : they ire quiet and peaceable, but are very deficient in many respects, and even in some of the humblest of the useful arts. The only fabric in which they have attained any kind of excellence is that of cot- ton cloth dyed blue with their fine indigo, pieces of which form the current coin of the realm. They have, however, the.absolute necessaries of life in abundance. Numerous herds of cattle are bred by Arabs, called Shouas, who have transported into Bornou nil their pastoral habits. The government of this state is absolute ; but when the English travellers, Denham and Clapperton, some time since, visited the country, they found it in a singular political situation. The Sheik El Kanemy, who by his valour had rescued the kingdom from Fellata invasion, possessed all the real authority, which he exer- cised with justice and vigour ; but he found it prudent to confer the ostensible dignity of sultan on a member of the ancient royal family, who lived in empty pomp at New Bornou. There is pro- m% 574 AFRICA. 'M 'f:m bably no court of which the taste is so absurd or preposterous. The primary requisite for a fine gentleman and a courtier is a huge stomach ; and where feeding and cramming will not produce this beauty in sufficient perfection, the part is swelled out by stuff- ing and cushioning. The towns of Bornou are considerable, though not of the first magnitude, and are all inclosed by high walls. New Bornou, the present residence of the sultan, contains about 10,000 people, and Kouka, where the sheik kept his court, is still smaller. Angornou contains a population of 30,000, and during the crowded market held there, often from 80,000 to 100,000 people are assembled. All these are in the heart of the kingdom, on the western bank of the Tchad. Angala, on the southern or Begharmi frontier, and Woodie on that of Kanem, are also considerable : at the latter, the caravans are made to stop till permission to proceed is obtained from the sovereign. Kanem, situated on the north-east shores of Lake Tchad, is a rude district belonging to Bornou, partaking somewhat of the cha- racter of the bordering desert ; but its inhabitants are peculiarly brave, and compose the most efficient soldiers in the country. Lari, the chief town, consists of clusters of rush huts, in the shape of well-thatched corn-stacks. Loggun, a distinct on the Shary river, about 40 miles south of Lake Tchad, is noted for the industry of its inhabitants: they weave cloths superior to any of their neighbours, and have money made of iron in the shape of a horse-shoe. The women are de- scribed as the most handsome and lively of the negro race. Loggun, the capital, is a town of some extent, with wide streets. Begharmi, a considerable country lying to the south-east of Lake Tchad, is known to the civilized world only by report. The people wage almost continual war with Bornou. Their chief force consists in mounted lancers, which, with their horses, are cased still more completely in iron mail than those of Bornou ; but they do not in the field display any higher degree of courage. Mandara, situated to the south of Bornou, comprises a fine fertile valley, containing eight large towns, the principal of which is Mora. The whole country, and even the capital, is bounded on the south by a range of high mountains, which are occupied by a rude pagan race called El Fellati, who have their villages strongly fortified, and fight desperately with poisoned arrows, by which they once put to flight the whole force of Bornou and Man- dara, though aided by a numerous and well-armed body of Arabs. Their territory, called Darkulla, or Dirkulla, appears to ex- tend south and south-cast from Mandara, and is known only from report. :v''^4'( <. AFRICAN ISLANDS. 575 < M :1 )osterous. jrtier is a )t produce t by slufF- ,f the first ornou, the eople, and Angornou 2d market assembled, stern bank ontier, and 5 latter, the is obtained rchad, is a of the cha- ! peculiarly le country, n the shape les south of bnts: they have money nen are de- legro race, de streets, outh-east of eport. The Their chief horses, are Bornou ; but lourage. ) rises a fine )al of which is bounded ire occupied heir villages arrows, by ju and Man- dy of Arabs, pears to ex- n only from AFRICAN ISLANDS. Africa is surrounded, at various distances, with numerous islands and groups of islands, situated, some in the Atlantic, and others in the Indian Ocean. Most of these are populous, fertile, and productive in a variety of valuable commodities ; and some of them present grand, imposing, and often beautiful featurest The Azores, or Western Islands, belong to Portugal : they are situated in the Atlantic Ocean, from 1000 to 1200 miles west- ward from the southern part of that kingdom. These islands are nine in number: St. Michael, St. Mary, Terceira, Fayal, Pico, Graciosa, St. George, Corvo, and Flores. They all bear evident marks of having been produced by the action of subterraneous fire, the symptoms of which are still visible, though no volcano is at present burning. The soil is extremely fertile, yielding, where cultivated, abun- dance of grain; while even from the crevices of the volcanic rocks grow the delicate oranges for which St. Michael is cele- brated ; and the wines which cover the steep sides of the mountain of Pico yield the wine called Fayal. These, with other products, afibrd ample materials for an export trade, in exchange for Euro- pean fabrics and colonial produce. The population of the Azores is estimated at 2.50,000. Though St. Michael is the largest island, being above 50 miles in length, and is also the most fertile, yet its capital, Ponte Del- gada, is not the seat of government. This distinction is enjoyed by Angra, in Terceira, in consequence of its comparatively safe harbour. The inhabitants of this place amount to 11,000. Madeira, also, belongs to Portugal. It lies about 600 miles south-west from that country, and contains 100,000 inhabitants. It is a beautiful and fertile island, and noted for its wine. The growth of the island is about 20,000 pipes, of which a consider- able quantity is sent to England, America, and the East and West Indies. The wine trade of Madeira has lately somewhat declined ; in consequence of which, coffee is planted to some extent, and has become an article of export. Funchal, the capital, is almost an English town, nearly all the opulent inhabitants being merchants of that nation, employed in the wine trade, while the Portuguese are generally very poor. Population, 20,000. Madeira has, adjacent to it, Porto Santo, a small high island, with a good roadstead. The Canary Islands are among the most celebrated and beautiful groups in the world. They belong to Spain, and lie i:.i /iw p; iH' i 1 i'.i 57G AFRICA. about 1 000 miles south- west from that country, and from 200 to 400 west from Morocco. There are thirteen islands altogether ; but seven only are of any note. The population of the Canaries is estimated at 200,000. The principal islands are TenerifTe, Grand Canary, Palma, Lanzarota, Fortaventura, Gomera, and Ferro. They consist of high mountains, which rise abruptly from the shore to a great height. Of these, the Peak of Teneriffe, a great land-mark to mariners, is 12,000 feet high. The soil in these islands displays much of that luxuriant fertility which distinguishes tropical coun- tries: the principal produce is wine, which, though inferior to Madeira, has, from its cheapness, come into considerable use. The export is estimated at 8000 or 9000 pipes : there is also some trade in brandy, soda, and archil. The chief seat of this commerce is Santa Cruz, in Teneriffe, which enjoys the advantage of an excellent roadstead. It is also the capital of the Canaries, and contains 8000 inhabitants ; but Orotavais the largest town: population, 11,000. Grand Canary is the most fertile, and supplies the other islands with grain. Las Palmas, its chief town, is the ecclesiastical capital of the islands. Ferro, a small, arid, and rocky island, was once supposed to form the most westerly point of the Old World, and has often been used by geographers as the first meridian. The Canarians are a sober, active, and industrious people, many of whom have migrated to the Spanish dominions in America and the Indies, and there form the most useful part of the population. The Cape Vehde Islands, situated about 400 miles west from Cape Verde, are ten in number ; St. Jago, St. Antonio, St. Nicholas, Mayo, Bonavista, Sal, St. Vincent, St. Lucia, Brava, and Fogo. The three first islands rise in the interior into high mountains ; and Fogo (fire) contains a very active volcano. In general the surface is arid, rocky, and much less productive than the Canaries. Long droughts sometimes prevail, and reduce the inhabitants to great distress. Out of a population of 88,000, one- fourth are said to have died of famine in 1831. The chief growth of these islands is cotton. A very fine breed of mules and asses is reared, many of which are sent to the West Indies. Goats, poultry, and turtle abound. Salt is formed in large quantities by natural evaporation. The Portuguese, since the first discovery, have claimed the sovereignty of these islands, and maintain a governor-general, who resides at Porto Praya. Several small islands lie in the Gulf of Guinea: of these, Fer- nando Po, the largest, is but a short distance from the mouth of the Niger. The British government formed, in 1827, a settlement on this island ; but, in consequence of the unhealthfulness of the ■ if- I i.,-.v %' AFRICAN ISLANDS. 677 climate, the garrison and settlers have been removed. Prince's Island is high and thickly wooded. St. Thomas is well watered and fertile ; and Annobon is inhabited by a simple native race. These three islands run in a chain to the south-west from Fer- nando Po, and are subject to the crown of Portugal. Ascension is an island, 60 miles in circuit, situated about 1000 miles due south from Liberia. It is rocky and barren, and was, until lately, uninhabited. It is now garrisoned by British troops, who have erected a fort, built houses, and constructed a large tank for holding water ; some cultivation has likewise been successfully commenced. In a crevice of a rock, letters for passing vessels were formerly deposited, hence called the Sea Post-Office. This island has been long famous for its turtle ; as many as 2500 have been caught in a year, some of which weighed from 600 to 800 pounds. Population, 230. St. Helena, so celebrated as the ocean-prison of the greatest of modern warriors, is an island, 28 miles in circumference, situ- ated 1200 miles west from the coast of Africa. It rises like an immense castle out of the sea to the height of from 600 to 1200 feet : it is strongly fortified, and contains about 3000 inhabitants. Longwood, on the east side of the island, was the residence of the Emperor Napoleon, from November, 1815, until the time of his death, May 5th, 1821. There are only four small openings in the wall of the rock com- posing the island, on the largest of which, where alone a small extent of beach appears, has been built James Town. Here the governor resides ; and refreshments, though on a limited scale, are provided for ships. St. Helena belonged to the East India Com- pany, but in 1830 it was vested in the crown of Great Britain. The Ethiopian Archipelago is a collection of islands, situ- ated on the east side of Africa, and southward of the equator. It includes the island of Madagascar, with the Mascarenha, ComorO; Seychelle, and Almirante groups, and also some detached islands. Madagascar is one of the largest and finest islands in the world ; it is separated from the eastern coast of Africa by the channel of Mozambique, and is about 1000 miles long and 220 in its greatest breadth. The interior is traversed from north to south by a chain of lofty mountains, from whose rugged sides de- scend numerous streams which water the fertile plains at their base : these are extremely fruitful in rice, sugar-cane, Indian-corn, manioc-root, bread-fruit, pine-apple, &c.; fitted, indeed, for almost every tropical product. The mountains contain valuable mines, especially of iron ; but are only partially worked. This island contains many fine bays and ports, well suited for 49 [i, I ■ ^ 678 AFRICA. MSi^'^i! ■ ' '""'If Hi!?! - *a .;.( commercial purposes. Those most frequented are Anton Gils Bay, Foul Point, Tamatave, Port Dauphin, and Bombetok. On the latter are the towns of Bombetok and Majunga. The trade, here, was formerly in slaves ; but is now in bullocks, Ijees'-wax, rice, and gums. American vessels often visit this place. The population of Madagascar is probably about 2,000,000. The inhabitants cultivate the ground and practise some arts; they are, however, rather rude and barbarous, and some of them are notorious pirates who ravage and plunder the adjacent islands. They are divided into a number of small tribes, who wage fre- quent wars with each other. biERiNA, the kingdom of the Ovahs, was recently the most important state in Madagascar. The late sovereign, Radama, had reduced to subjection the largest and finest part of the island : he had formed a train of artillery ; armed part of his troops with muskets ; and had also sent a number of young natives to obtain instruction iri Paris and London. With the aid of the missionaries, he had established a printing-press, and trained a number of teachers, who were settled in various parts of the kingdom. Unhappily, this prince, in July, 1828, was poisoned by his wife, who immediately raised an unworthy paramour to the throne. This event has introduced great anarchy and confusion, and ar- rested entirely the career of improvement commenced under such prosperous auspices. The converts to Christianity have been much persecuted ; and some of them have sealed their devotion to the cause of the Redeemer with their blood. Tananarivou, the capital of Imerina, is situated some distance from the west coast of the island, and is built on a high table-land, 7000 or 8000 feet above the level of the sea : population, 8000. The Mascarenha, or the Islands of Bourbon and Mauritius, lie due east from Madagascar. These are well settled, fertile, and valuable islands, and were both discovered by Mascarenha, a Por- tuguese navigator, in 1592. Bourbon, situated 470 miles east from Madagascar, belongs to France. It is about 150 miles in circumference, and consists en- tirely of the heights and slopes of two great mountains, the most southerly of which contains a volcano in perpetual activity. A great part of the surface of the island consists of what is called burnt country, a complete desert of hard, black soil, with numerous holes and crevices. The rest, however, is well watered by nume- rous torrents, and is highly favourable for the growth of all the chief tropical productions. After being in possession of the French almost 170 years, Bourbon was captured by the British in 1810, but restored to AFRICAN ISLANDS. 679 4. ^nton Gils jetok. On The trade, Ijees'-wax, lace. The I. some arts; me of them ent islands, o wage fre- ly ihe most adama, had ! island : he troops with ^es to obtain Tiissionaries, number of jdom. by his wife, the throne, sion, and ar- 3 under such f have been leir devotion ome distance 1 table-land, tion, 8000. d Mauritius, , fertile, and •enha, a Por- ir, belongs to 1 consists en- ins, the most activity. A hat is called ith numerous •ed by nume- th of all the t 170 years, it restored to that power in 1814. Coffee and cloves have been long culli. vated ; but sugar is n'^w the chief product. The island contains 97,000 inhabitants, of whom 10,000 are whites. St. Denis, the chief town, contains a population of 8000. Bourbon has no good harbour, and its commerce is carried on principally through the ports of the neighbouring island. Mauritius, or tug Isle of France, lies about 130 miles north-east of Bourbon : it is not quite so large, yet is still 110 miles in circuit. The rugged mountains which cover a great part of the island give it a somewhat sterile character ; yet the lower slopes, produce coffee, cotton, indigo, and sugar, of iniproved quality. The island is famous for its ebony, which is superior to any other in the world. It does not yield grain sufficient to supply the inhabitants ; but depends upon the island of Bourbon for that article. This island, long the capital of the French possessions in the Indian Seas, was so strongly fortified as to be considered impreg- nable. It was taken by the British in 1810, and now belongs to that nation. The island contains 95,000 inhabitants, of whom only 12,000 are whites. The negro population, lately slaves, were emancipated by the Act of Parliament abolishing slavery in the British empire. The white inhabitants are mostly descendants of noble French families, and are remarkable for their polished man- ners. Port Louis and Port Bourbon are the principal harbours. The Seychelles, nearly north from Madagascar, with the bordering group of the Aljiirantes, have been subject ro Great Britain since 1794 : they are a cluster of very small islands, high and I'ocky, and are but little fitted for any culture except cotton ; they abound, however, with cocoa-nuts, and their shores with turtle and excellent fish. The inhabitants are estimated at 7000, nearly all of whom are negroes, lately emancipated. The Comoro Islands, situated between Madagascar and the continent, are very elevated and mountainous in the interior ; but the lower tracts abound in sheep, cattle, and all the tropical grains and fruits. The inhabitants are mild and industrious, but they have been most dreadfully infested, and their numbers thinned by the Madagascar pirates, who make an annual inroad, laying waste the open country, and blockading the towns. Angazicha, or Great Comoro, is the largest island, containing a mountain supposed to rise 6000 or 7000 feet high ; but Anjouan, or Johanna, is the most flourishing : its chief town still contains 3000 inhabitants. Mohilla and Mayotta are comparatively small. Pemba, Zanzibar, and Monfia, which lie parallel to, and dis- tant twenty or thirty miles from, the coast of Zanguebar, are small, 580 OCEANICA. but fertile islands, partly independent, and partly subject to the Imam of Muscat. The town of Zanzibar, on the island of the same name, is said to contain 10,000 inhabitants, \merican vessels trade to this place, and an American consul resides here. SocoTRA, 150 miles east from Cape Guardafui, belongs to the sheik of Keshin, a petty sovereign on the coast of Arabia, who sends one of his family annually to collect the revenue. It is mountainous, rocky, and arid ; and yields the best aloes in the world ; also, some of that peculiar resinous substance called dra- gon's-blood. This island was lately selected by the East India Company, as a station connected with the steam navigation of the Red Sea ; but, being found unhealthy, has been abandoned. OCEANICA. OcEANicA is the name adopted to designate the numerous islands and groups of islands, situated partly to the south of Asia and partly in the Pacific Ocean, between Asia and America. It stretches over 90 degrees of latitude, 40 degrees north, and 50 de- grees south ; and 160 degrees of longitude, 88 degrees east, and 62 degrees west ; extending from north to south 6210 miles, from east to west 11,010 miles, and comprehending almost a third part of the entire surface of the globe. The Portuguese were the earliest Europeans who investigated any portion of Oceanica ; which they did from the West, proceed- ing from the shores of India, sometime aAer they had become ac- quainted with the route to that section of Asia. Magellan, the first circumnavigator, sailed from Spain in 1519. Passing through the Straits which bear his name, he advanced fearlessly from south- east to north-west, across the vast expanse of the unknown Pacific, and, by his boldness and success, opened the way for subsequent discoveries. Three hundred years elapsed before all the islands which now pass under the name of Oceanica, were known to civilized society. After Magellan, the Spanish navigators continued to explore the Pacific Ocean, particularly Alvaro de Mendana, who, in the last part of the sixteenth century, discovered the Solomon Islands and the Marquesas ; aflerwards, Fernandez de Quiros, who had ac- companied him on his third voyage, made known to the world the Society Islands and the New Hebrides. In the seventeenth cen- tury, the Dutch began to explore this part of the world ; and, be- sides several small islands, discovered Australia, or New Holland) which received its name from them. . /■[■K" OCEANICA. 581 ject to the and of the \merican iaes here. )ngs to the .rabia, who inue. It is loes in the called dra- East India ation of the ioned. e numerous outh of Asia \.merica. It 1, and 50 de- ees east, and ) miles, from t a third part investigated est, proceed- i become ac- lUan, the first r through the from south- nown Pacific, ir subsequent \\ the islands re known to o explore the in the last . Islands and who had nc- Ihe world the enteenth cen- )rld ; and, be- !»}ew Holland, Tasman, a Dutchman, and Dampier, an Englishman, continued these discoveries. In the middle of the eighteenth century, the British navigators, Byron, Wallis, and Carteret, and the French Bougainville, exerted themselves to extend the knowledge of Occanica. But Captain James Cook, who circumnavigated the world from 1768 to 1779, contributed most to our knowledge with regard to the islands already known, re-discovered some be- fore seen, and was the original discoverer of New Caledonia and the Sandwich Islands. Alter the time of Cook, both the French and English exerted themselves to give mankind a better acquaint- ance with Oceanica. Among the later navigators, Vancouver, Entrecasteaux, La Perouse, Baudin, Flinders, Krusenstern, Kotze- bue, and Beechey, all added to our knowledge of this region. A few of these islands are of such magnitude, as to approach the character of continents ; while others can scarcely aspire above the diminutive appellation of islets. Nearly all the large islands appear to be mountainous; and some contain active volcanoes, which occasionally cause dreadful ravages. The volcano of Gilolo broke out in 1673 with a violence which made the whole of the Moluccas shake. The ashes were carried as far as Magin- danao, and the scoria and the pumice-stones, floating on the sea, seemed to retard the progress of the vessels. Several volcanoes are in constant activity in the Sandwich and Friendly Islands, also in the New Hebrides, Celebes, Borneo, Sumbawa, &c. The formation of many of the islands of Oceanica, particularly in Polynesia, is attributed to the operation of the minute coral insect. All the low islands seem to have for their base a reef of coral rocks, generally disposed in a circular form. They are, no doubt, raised Irom the depths of the ocean by successive layers of coral rock, or carried to their present height by accumulations of the same material, on the original rocks at the bottom of the sea. Numbers of these low islands are inhabited, and covered with groves of cocoa-nut, and other trees, while some are quite destitute of trees, and without inhabitants. The coral rocks and islands are seen in all stages of their form- ation, some in deep water, others just appearing above the surface, some already elevated above the sea, but destitute of vegetation, others with a few weeds on the higher parts, and some again covered with large timber. Many of the islands of this quarter arc extensive countries ; and one of them is nearly equal in area to Europe. The wliole of their land surface is estimated at from 4,500,000 to 5,000,000 square miles, and the population at from 15,000,000 to 20,000,000. The great divisions of this region are Malaysia, Australasia, and Polynesia. 49* § 582 OCEANICA. M. mi mm- mx MALAYSIA. Malaysia, called also the East Indian Archipelago, comprises those numerous islands, lying immediately southward and south- eastward from the southern part of Asia. The name of this region is derived from the Malays, who are the principal and predominant race. The islands are Sumatra, Java, and Borneo, usually called the Sunda Isles, together with Celebes, the Moluccas, or Spice Islands, and the Philippines, besides other smaller groups and islands. Malaysia is bounded on the north by the Malayan Sea and the Bay of Bengal, south by Australasia, east by Polynesia, and west by the Indian Ocean and Chinese Sea. The population of the whole of the islands is, probably, about 15,.500,000, of which Sumatra contains 4,000,000; Java 4,000,000; Borneo 3,000,000; the Philippine Islands 2,500,000; Celebes and its appendages 1,000,000; Bally, Lombok, Sooloo, &c. 600,000, and Timor and the Spice Islands, &c., nearly 600,000. Situated on both sides of the equator, and in a tropical climate, the islands of Malaysia rank, as to soil and productions, among the most favoured regions on the globe, and yield in great profu- sion, a variety of exquisite fruits and spices. The climate is that of the torrid zone, and is, in many places, very unhealthful for Europeans and Americans. Violent hurricanes, called typhoons, occur at certain seasons of the year ; and destructive earthquakes occasionally take place in fome quarters. Minerals are found to a considerable extent in this region : tin is the most abundant ; but gold, copper, iron, salt, sulphur, and diamonds also abound ; the latter are met with only in Borneo. One of the largest known of these gems belongs to the prince of Matan, in that island : it is in a rough state, and is estimated to be worth nearly 1,600,000 dollars. The rich soil of these islands yields many of the most import- ant articles of commerce : sugar, coffee, indigo, pepper, cotton, and rico, with cinnamon, cloves, nutmegs, camphor, &c., are among the products. The fruits are various and delicious. The mangosteen, mango, durion, and guava, are all highly prized. The teak, sandal-wood, and ebony, many species of palms, fur- nishing dates, sago, &c. and various dye woods, are also common. Malaysia abounds with various animals, of which one of the most remarkable is the well-known orang-outang, found in Borneo, Malacca, &c. ; he is from three to four and a-half feet in height, and is incapable of walking erect without a staff, or some other support, but seems particularly fitted for climbing trees. The pongo, a native of Sumatra and Borneo, is supposed by MALAYSIA. 583 comprises [)d south- [lis region idominant called the e Islands, ands. a and the , and west ion of the of which (,000,000; ippendages Timor and ;al climate, ns, among rreat profu- tiate is that ealthful for typhoons, arthquakes region : tin ilphur, and in Borneo. le prince of Imated to be lost import- Iper, cotton, &c., are iious. The rhly prized, palms, fur- |o common, one of the _ in Borneo, ;t in height, some other .j. Lupposed by some naturalists to bo the orang-outang of mature age ; it is six or seven feet in height, and is very formidable, from its strength and fierceness. The long-armed ape, or siamang, is found in troops in Sumatra ; they are headed by a chief, who is considered invul- nerable by the Malays ; these animals assemble at day-hreak and make the woods resound with their wild and peculiar cry. In cap- tivity they are remarkably tractable. The monkey tribes ore nu- merous; one of which, the proboscis monkey, is distinguished from all others by having a long projecting nose, (giving to tho head of the animal the appearance of a ludicrous mask. The Malay tapir is almost the size of a buffalo ; its fore and hind parts are nearly black, while the body has a broad belt of white extending round it, resembling a piece of white linen thrown over the animal. The Babyroussa hog, found in Amboyna, has enormous curled tusks growing out of his mouth. The island of Sumatra contains several species of tigers, two of the rhinoceros, and also elephants, which are numerous, in a wild state, and have only, in a few instances, been trained to the service of man ; a small and handsome breed of horses, with fawn-coloured and reddish-white buffaloes likewise abound. The birds are of great variety and beauty, comprising superbly coloured birds of paradise, doves of beautiful plumage, parrots, cuckoos, and the mugnificent Argus pheasant, the pride of the Malaysian forests. Crocodiles are numerous in the rivers ; and serpents of various species have been discovered, some of which are from twelve to twenty feet in length. The commerce of Malaysia is extensive, and is carried on chiefly by Europeans and Chinese. The Bugis and the Malays are the most active of the native traders. The Chinese, in their unwieldy vessels called junks, some of which are 1000 tons burden, make one voyage a year to Batavia, carrying tea, silks, cotton goods and China ware, receiving in return among other articles, those somewhat fantastic luxuries, shark's fins, tripong, and edible birds'- nests. The first quality of the latter article sells in China for dou- ble its weight in silver, or upwards of 30 dollars per pound ; it is considered the highest dainty, and is made use of by the most wealthy only. American vessels trade to various parts of Malaysia, especially to Batavia, Manilla, Cheribon, Samarang, &:'c., and also to the west coast of Sumatra, for pepper, where they are sometimes cap- tured by the Malays of that island and the crews murdered. To avenge these injuries and protect the trade, United States' ships of war have been sent to this quarter, and have in more than one instance inflicted summary punishment upon these pirates. The inhabitants of Malaysia include two races, the black and M m^ :«: I ■ '-! 584 OCEANICA. tho brown. Thcso arc entirely distinct in origin, language and character, and are engaged in constant warfare with each other. Tho black race, called the Papuan or Oriental negroes, are tho flirthest removed from civilization of any of the human family. They appear to be a dwarf variety of tho negro of Africa, but of shorter stature, never exceeding five feet in height. Tho com- plexion is sooty rather than black, and the woolly hair grows in small tufls with a spiral twist. These savages are generally diffused through Borneo, New Guinea, Australia, the New Hebrides, &c. Their habits are not much known, and little is recorded of them except tho ferocity with which they wage their ceaseless war against the brown races. Tho Malay tribes who inhabit the islands of this region are found also in New Zealand, and over nearly the whole of Polyne- sia. They exist in difierent stages of civilization, and vary in their character from great ferocity to comparative mildness. These people are generally short in stature : the chiefs, however, and the superior ranks, in many of the islands, are tall and robust. The Malays of Sumatra, Java, Borneo, «Sjc., are the same peo- ple as the inhabitants of Malacca, on the continent. They are generally Mahomedans, much addicted to piracy ; in their disposi- tion daring, ferocious and vindictive. Amongst them gambling and games of hazard are pursued with an intense degree of passion. Every man goes armed with a kris, or dagger, which he regards as the instrument both of defending himself and redressing his wrongs. The right of private revenge is claimed by every indi- vidual for injuries received either by himself, his family, or tribe. When circumstances deprive him of any hope of avenging himself with ease and safety, h*? has recourse to that dreadful outrage pe- culiar to these islands, termed running a muck. The individual under this impulse, being also generally infuriated with opium, draws his dagger, and runs into the street, stabbing without distinc- tion every one he meets, till he himself is killed or taken. Sumatra, the largest of the Sunda islands, is separated by a narrow strait from the peninsula of Malacca. It is about 1000 miles long, and is intersected by the equator. A chain of lofly mountains, one of which is 14,160 feet high, extends through its whole length ; but the coasts are low, marshy, and insalubrious. Black pepper is the principal staple, which is raised and export- ed in large quantities : the other productions are cinnamon, cam- phor, sago, rice, coffee, and various fruits. The American trade with Sumatra is chiefly for pepper, of which, about 2,500,000 pounds is imported annually into the United States: it is carried on for the most part along the west coast of the island, at Muckee, Sinkel, Quallo Battoo, and other ports. MALAYSIA. 585 uago and h other, s, are tho n fumily. 3n, but of riio com* • grows in ■nco, New its arc not 10 ferocity own races, region are of Polyne- ary in their ss. These cr, and the )USt. 5 same peo- They are heir disposi- n gambling 3 of passion, h he regards Iressing his every indi- ily, or tribe, ring himself outrage pe- e individual with opium, lOut disiinc- ten. )arated by a about 1000 lain of lofty s through its salubrious, i and export- lamon, cam- lerican trade It 2,500,000 it is carried d, at Muckee, The country is divided into several small kingdoms. In the north part of the island is Achcen ; in the east Siuk ; and to tho south Palembang and Lampong. Tho native governments are generally hereditary despotisms. Slavery is common in this island ; princes sell their subjects, parents their children, and creditors their debtors ; and a slave-trade is carried on from the islands on tho west coast, with Acheen and other ports. The Dutch are also said to be actively engaged in it. The interior of the island is inhabited by several difTerent tribes, of whom the Battaa are comparatively civilized, yet practise can* nibalism. They not only devour their enemies in tho heat of vic- tory, but among them a part of the sentence of criminals is to be put to death, and afterwards eaten in public, which is invariably performed. These people have a written language, a peculiarity of which is, that it is read from the bottom upwards. About one- fourth of tho Battas are supposed to be capable of reading. Sumatra is begirt with a number of islands, of which, those on the west side are but little known, and have a mountainous and rugged aspect. Off the eastern coast the islands of Pulo Lingin and Bintang have been long noted for their commerce and piracy. The islet of JZAio, which belongs to the Dutch, is separated from Bintang by a narrow channel. The town of Rhio, being made a free port, has acquired great importance, both as an entrep6t and a place of refreshment. Its population amounts to 6000. The island of Banca^ east of Sumatra, derives its sole import- ance from its mines of tin ; and Billiton is distinguished by thoso of iron, the most valuable in this quarter. The Dutch have set- tlements at Bencoolen, Palembang, and Padang, in Sumatra. Java is a fertile and populous island, 650 miles in length ; it lies south-ecst from Sumatra, and is separated Irom that island by the straits of Sunda. High mountains extend throughout its whole length, and contain numerous volcanoes, which are mostly extinct ; the soil is exceedingly fertile, producing sugar, coffee, rice, pepper, spices, indigo, cotton, and all the principal fruits of this region. A great portion of the island is under the government of the Dutch ; but the southern extremity, which is in the possession of tho original inhabitants, contains the two native states of Jogo- Karto and Solo-Karto, fragments of the empire of Mataram, which formerly held sway over the greater part of Java. The first is supposed to contain 1,000,000 subjects, and the latter 700,000. The two capitals, bearing the same name with the kingdoms, are estimated to contain a population of 100,000 each. The native population of Java are professors of the Hindoo religion. Batavia, the metropolis of Java, is a large and important city. It is built in a low situation, and the streets are traversed by ca- I I'M 586 OCEANICA. naU in the manner of the towns of Holland. It was long noted for its deadly climato, but has, by judicious draining, &c., been greatly improved. The city enjoys an extensive commerce, and contains 60,000 inhabitants, of whom a considerable niuiibor are Chincso. The other chief towns in Java are Sour'-.'^nya, Cheri* bon, and Samarang. The islands of Bally, Lomboox, Sumbawa, Fluris, and Ti< MoK, extend eastward from Java ; they seem to be almost a contin* uation of that island, and are simitar to it in climate, productions, &c. Timor is held jointly in possession by the Dutch and Portu- guese. Coepang is the principal settlement of the first, and Deily of the latter people. Sumbawa contains the kingdom of Uima, ti i I uiary to the Dutch, also an active volcano, which, in 181.^), com- milled serious ravages. Borneo is, next to Australia, the largest islatid in tli'^ world, being between 800 and 000 miles long, and 700 wir't. it is well gifted by nature, and though directly under tho equator, the mour- tains of the interior, 8000 leet high, give rise to numerous st teams which impart moisture and fertility to the soil, lis products are rice, pepper, cinnamon, coffee, &c. Gold and diamonds also abound ; the mines of the former arc the most copious in the East. The inhabitants of the coast comprise Malays, Javanese, Bugis, and Chincso ; the latter are the most industrious people on tho island ; they carry on a considerable commerce, work the gold mines, &c. '.''Ixj interior is inhabited by various independent tribes between whom and the people of the maritime districts there is al- most constant war. These tribes are the Dyaks, Biajoos, Hara- foras, and Papuan negroes. The Dyaks are tall, robust, and ferocious : these savages ex- tract some of their front teeth and insert pieces of gold in their stead : they eat the flesh of their enemies, drink their blood, use their bones and skulls as ornaments, and even as money, and they consider a man unfit for matrimony or any important function of life until he has stain at least one enemy and can show his head as a proof of his courage. The principal trade is at Benjar Massin, ii port contaiiiing 0000 inhabitants, and the metropolis of a ki)<"''i- 1 under '^ ■ control of the Dutch. Borneo, the capital •. uau- which, during its great- ness, gave its name to the whole island, is now much decayed, but still contains 12,000 inhabitants. Succadana and Pontiana are places of some note. The SooLoo Archipelago extends eastward from Borneo, and comp] ises 27 islands, which are governed by a Sultan : the inhab- it ''ts. who are all devoted to piracy, are called the Algerines of MALAYSIA. 587 g noted c, been rcc, and ,ibor nre I, Cheri- and Ti- a contin- ductions, id Tortu- nd Dcily imo, tilC 1ft, ^on»- In world, 1 1 is well ihemour- 9 streams ducts are onds also the East. )sc, Bugis, lie on tho the gold dent tribes here is al- |)os, Hara- vages ex- d in their jlood, use , and they unction of V his head III ing 0000 lontrol of g its great- icayed, but »ntiana are orneo, and the inhab- Igerines of the Eastern scos : from 300 to 400 vessels are continually issuing; forth in tliin fierce and perilous occnpntion ; yet those proplo curry on extensive common-o with the Chinese and other nations, and protect ill. a who traOc r "th them. Ck».ebe8, iji 1 NTAssAR, Hcs cost of Bomf ' it is very irregular in shape, Ijcing composed of four great penihsulas, producing all the chief staples of this region. Most of tho i.sl d is occupied by native tribes, which aro tributary to tfio Dutch. Tho Macassars and I "^is are fho two principal idocs : tho lat. ter are, at present, tho ru. rs; tho^e of IJonoy are the n, ist war- like, ond those of VVagoo iio most commercial. The latter aro active traders. The cargoes a some of their vessels arc often worth 60,000 dollars; and they traverse all parts of this j ;ion .'•om Australia to Siam. Macassar, or Vlaardingen, is t lO capital of a small tf rritory at tho south end of the island, in the possession of the Dutch t it ^*i defended by Fort Rotterdam. The Moluccas, or Spice Islan's, comprise Gilolo, Coram Bouro, Banda, Amboyna, Ternate, Ti or, &c. They derive celeb- rity from producing tho rich spices, oloves, nutmegs, and mace. Gilolo is the largest of the group, and | resents the usual spectacle in these regions, of a rude people goveri f^d by a number of turbu- lent chieftains. Coram is mostly under tli ■ power of a single prince, who is tributary to the Dutch. Ambo\ na is the chief European settlement, and is- the only island where , until lately, the clovo was permitted to be raised. Tho town oi Vmboyna contains 7000 inhabitants. Nassau, a town on the smal island of Ncira, is the residence of the Dutch governor of the Mo, iccas. The Philippines form an extensive a chipelago, comprising about 1000 islands, islets, and rocks, situatcii north-east of Borneo. Few countries are more favoured as to soil and climate. Though placed but little north of the equator, the height of the mountains and the ocean breezes preserve these islands from suffering under any severe or scorching heat. They produce most of the staple tropical articles, sugar, rice, tobacco, coffee, indigo, &c. The largest of the group are Luzon and Mindanao ; the first is about equal in area to the state of Alabama, and the other to that of South Carolina ; of the remaining islands, eight only are of any importance, a vast majority being mere isleis and rocks. They belong to Spain ; the chief part, however, of the inhabitants are of the native races, of which the most improved are the Taga- las ; another is the Bisayans ; there are also in the interior of the larger islands a considerable number of Papuan negroes. Manilla, the capital of Luzon, and of the whole group of the ■ ■ T'l 588 OCEANICA. Philippines, contains, with its suburbs, 180,000 inhabitants. This city is the centre of an extensive commerce, and its harbour is crowded with European, American, and Chinese vessels. m-r- m- S'^ , AUSTRALASIA. Australasia comprises the south-western section of Oceanica ; it contains about three-fourths of its land surface, and lies wholly south of the equator. This region includes Australia, Van Die- man's Land, New Zealand, New Guinea, New Britain, New Ireland, Solomon's Archipelago, New Hebrides, New Caledonia, &c. The inhabitants have been reckoned at from 1,000,000 to 2,000,000, and the area at about 3,500,000 square miles. AvsTRAUA, formerly New Holland, is the largest island in the world : it is 2600 miles in length, and contains 3,000,000 square miles. The whole island is claimed by Great Britain. It is laid off into two great divisions : the western retains the old name. New Holland, and the eastern is called New South Wales. This vast extent of territory is very imperfectly known ; we are acquainted, for the most part, with the coasts only, except that some exploring parties have penetrated from the eastern to the western shores in the southern portion of the island. The Blue Mountains, which extend parallel with the east coast, about 70 or 80 miles inland, are the most extensive range yet discovered ; from their western declivities, the Darling, Lachlan, Morumbidgee, and other streams, appear to unite in the Murray, a river upwards of 1000 miles in length, which flows into the ocean through lake Alexandrina. That stream, first discovered in 1830, is the most considerable yet met with in the island. Australia is, in some respects, unlike any other part of the world. Nearly all the various species of plants, from the most minute shrub to the loftiest ornaments of the forest, differ from those of the other quarters of the earth. None of its rivers or marshes contain any species of the tortoise or the lizard ; and no animal larger than a common-sized sheep has been discovered. Almost every thing in the animal and vegetable world is singular and striking. The swans are black, and the eagles white ; the mole lays eggs, has a duck's bill, and suckles its young. The pears are made of wood, with the stalk at the larger end ; and the cherry grows with the stone on the outside. The kangaroo, of which there are many varieties, is the most considerable animal yet discovered in Australia : the largest is about the size of a full-grown sheep, and moves by springing 30 feet at a bound, which it is enabled to do by the great length and '} AUSTRALASIA. 589 3. This rbour is >ceanica ; 38 wholly ^an Die- Lin, New Caledonia, )0,000 to !S. ind in the 00 square It is laid ame, New rn; we are jxcept that Lern to the The Blue ibout 70 or Jiscovered ; rumbidgee, er upwards irough lake is the most f the world, lost minute )m those of or marshes no animal d. Almost ngular and ; the mole The pears the cherry- is the most _ largest is pringing 30 length and strength of its hind legs. The female of all the different varieties is provided with an abdominal pouch, similar to that of the opos- sum, for the reception of the young. They use their tail as a weapon of defence, a blow from which has been known to break a stout man's leg. The flesh of this animal is much esteemed for food, and is said to resemble mutton. The dingo, or New Holland dog, is never known to bark : it is fierce, active and voracious. The dog-faced opossum inhabits Van Diemen's Land : it lives among the rocks on the sea-shore, and feeds on fish. The duck-bill is a most singular animal ; it is about the size of a cat, is covered with fur, web-foofed, and has a bill like a duck. It lays eggs, suckles its young, and spends most of its time in the water. The foot of the male is armed with a spur, through which passes a poisonous liquor, rendering the animal dangerous. The emeu is the largest of Australian birds; it has some resem- blance to the ostrich, but is smaller, being only about seven feet high : the feathers at a little distance appear like coarse hair : it is often hunted for its flesh, which has the flavour of beef. The black swan is like the white in form and habits, but is rather less in size. The bird called the honey-sucker has a tongue like a brush, with which it extracts the juice of flowers. Beautiful parrots, cockatoos and parakeets abound, with pigeons and doves of various colours. Some of these are green, and some brown, while others are beautifully variegated with the richest colours, relieved with bright spots equal in brilliancy to the richest gems. The native inhabitants of Australasia, excepting those of New Zealand, all belong to the Papuan race already mentioned. They have been also called Melanesians, a term signifying Black Isl- anders. Among these people, especially in Australia, the state of nature is complete. There is no society, no government, no laws ; and each man acts according to his own will and fancy. These miserable beings are often destitute of clothing and dwell- ings of any kind, living in the open air, and sleeping in the crevices of the rocks or among the bushes. They are ignorant of the use of the bow, but are armed with spears, clubs, and shields. It is said they have no precise notion of a Supreme Being, and are without idols, sacrifices, prayers or priests. Their perceptions are quick ; and, like other rude tribes, they can discover a track amongst the grass or bushes where the civilized man can see nothing to guide him. These savages have often great powers of mimicry, and in disposition are cunning, lively and capricious. The people of New Guinea, New Britain, Solomon's Archi- pelago, the New Hebrides, New Caledonia, &c., though of the same race, are rather more advanced in the arts of life than those r)0 ■■ 4 . ' ^Dh ,: J IB ■'■!-! ^^H ■^f HK^t ■Ml' M ^M -1 wm m 1 P^i ' 1 , ■: '• ■ i '^1 ';•' ' ■! H !^; ii if. § i IS::: '.■':i'';:'' - ■'('■ ,'■ Ml^t '" if:;' I hi if ■ . . 5U0 OCEANICA. of Australia, and have some imperfect forms of government. They build rude dwellings, construct canoes, and make fishing-nets and sails with some degree of skill. The natives of New Zealand belong to the Malay variety of the human family, and like that people in other quarters, comprise two classes, nobles and slaves. They are a finely-formed race of savages, but very warlike, cruel and ferocious : they are known to be cannibals, and eat not only the prisoners they take in war, but even their domestic slaves, whom they often kill when under the influence of passion. Many European vessels have been at various times captured by them, and the crews destroyed and eaten ; but these horrid practices have greatly diminished wherever the missionary influence has extended. The more civilized of the New Zealanders are oflen employed on board of whaling and other vessels, and are found to be tract- able and serviceable. In one instance a native, though highly tattooed, has become the first officer of a large English ship, and a skilful and scientific navigator. Some of these islanders have wrought also as labourers at Sydney, and are much esteemed, having no propensity for spirituous liquors. Many of the chiefs have a turn for oratory, and sometimes they make s'peeches of two or three hours' duration, accompanied with vehement gestures, to which those of the audience correspond. Tattooing, or the practice of covering the person with various lines and figures, is carried to a great extent in New Zealand ; the faces and even the whole body of some of the chief men are thus marked, degrees of rank being designated by the greater or leas surface of tattooed skin. This operation is performed by punctur- ing the flesh with a sharp instrument and infusing colouring matter into the incisions. The children of the white settlers, or the Anglo-Australians and Tasmanians, even in the first generation, appear to differ in some respects from their progenitors: almost without exception, they have fair complexions and blue eyes ; they grow up tall and thin, and soon arrive at puberty. In character they are said to be en- ergetic, intelligent and courageous, and believe themselves.to be a great improvement on the parent stock. In the Australian colonies the pride of station is carried to an extravagant height, and a strong line of distinction between the free and convict population exists. The native-born inhabitants are in common language called currency^ and the European ster- ling. The former are greatly attached to their native soil, and aflTect to have a marked contempt for the mother country. Botany Bay Colony. — In the southern part of New South Wales, is the settlement founded in 1787, and commonly known f ••«' AUSTRALASIA. 591 nt. They ;-net3 and ety of the , comprise •med race ire known ie in war, hen under ^e been at and eaten ; lerever the I employed to be tract- jgh highly h ship, and inders have 1 esteemed, f the chiefs 3ches of two gestures, to pv'ith various ealand; the len are thus ater or less jy punctur- uring matter tralians and fer in some eption, they all and thin, id to be en- Blves.to be a carried to an jetvveen the inhabitants iropean ster- ive soil, and itry. New South lonly known as the Botany Bay Colony. The climate of this part of Australia is temperate and agreeable; the soil is moderately fertile: the country, however, is liable to long droughts, which do much injury. Wheat, Indian-corn, and potatoes, are the chief objects of culture. Cattle and sheep are numerous ; and wool is one of the chief pro- ducts. A few common articles are manufactured, chiefly of the bulky kind. The colonists are actively engaged in the whale and seal fishery. Population, from 80,000 to 100,000. To this region, great numbers of criminals have been banished from Great Britain. Here they labour during the term for which they were sentenced ; and, on its expiration, they may retui n to England, or remain in Australia. In the latter event, they re- ceive a grant of 40 acres of land, with stock and provisions. The Colony extends along the coast about 800 miles, and contains a number of small towns and settlements. Sydney, the capital of Australia, stands on Port Jackson. It has a fine situation, a good harbour, and a population of 15,000 or 20,000. It contains churches, public and private schools, banks, &c., and carries on an active commerce with Great Britain, China, India, New Zealand, Cape Colony, &c. Wool, sperm and whale oil, wheat, &c., are the principal exports. Paramatta, Windsor, and Liverpool, are small towns on the east side of tiie Blue Mountains, of which the first has about 3000 in- habitants, and the others 1000 or 1500 each. Bathurst, 160 miles from Sydney, and west of the mountains, is situated 1800 feet above the sea. It enjoys a cool and pleasant climate, and is sur- rounded by an extensive grazing country, which supplies large quantities of wool. The Colony of West Australia was established at Swan River in the year 1829. The country is rather dry and sandy, but is favourable for raising cattle. The settlement contains from 3000 to 4000 inhabitants. Perth and Freemantle are small towns, containing each a few dwelling-houses. South-east of Swan River, and on the south coast of Australia at King George's Sound, is the small settlement of Albany. The Colony of South Australia, founded in 1836, lies on the west coast of the island, almost due west from Sydney. It was established by the South Australian Company, to whom a large tract of land has been granted by the British government, the proceeds of which are to be applied to the conveying of free settlers to the colony. No convicts are to be sent to this quarter. The population in 1839 was estimated at 8000, of whom a portion are Germans. Adelaide, the capital of South Australia, is laid out near the west coast of the Gulf of St. Vincent. It was founded in 1837, 502 OCEANICA. :i' ■( 'I -1 and now contains a few temporary public buildings and a number of private dwellings. The bank of South Australia has com- menced operations, and a newspaper is already printed. Glenelg and Kingscote are small towns, lately laid out : the latter is situated on Kangaroo island. Farther to the south-east, at Portland Bay and Port Philip, settlements have been formed. At the latter, the town of Melbourne has been laid out. Van Diemen's Land, or Tasmania, is an island separated from Australia by Bass' Strait. A settlement was commenced here in 1804, which continued for 21 years politically united to New South Wales, but is now a separate government. This colony is in a prosperous condition, and is settling rapidly ; the inhabitants amount to upwards of 40,000, of whom one-third are convicts. Length of the island, 200 miles; breadth, 150; area, 27,000 square miles. The original inhabitants, now reduced to 300 or 400 in number, have been removed to an island in Bass' Straits. The chief towns are Hobart Town, Launceston, George Town, &c. The first is the capital : it has one of the finest harbours in the world, is pleasantly situated, and carries on a flourishing com- merce. Population, 13,000. The other towns are mere villages, containing not more than a hundred houses each. New Zealand comprises one small and two large islands, which lie to the south-east of Australia, and contain an area of 95,000 square miles. Ranges of mountains extend through both the larger islands, and rise in some cases to the height of 12,000 or 14,000 feet. The soil, where level, is very fertile. The products are Indian- corn, yams, potatoes, and a species of very strong flax, highly ser- viceable for clothing, cordage, &c. The forests contain large and valuable timber; some trees, of a species of pine, grow 100 feet high from the ground to the branches, and are 40 feet in girth : great quantities are cut and exported. In the northern island, missionary labours were commenced in 1815. Many of the natives have been instructed in reading, writing, and religion ; and, in the vicinity of the missions, they are beginning to cultivate the scil in a regular manner, and to breed cattle : they are also acquiring a taste for European clothing and comforts. A British settlement is established at the Bay of Islands, on the east coast of the northern island: here there are several mission- aries stationed, and about 500 English families have taken up their resiJence. This place is a great resort for whale-ships, 20 or 30 being often in harbour at one time. The British settlements in New Zealand are under the cognizance of an oflicer called the POLYNESIA. 593 number as com- Glenelg I situated land Bay atter, the separated mmenced united to It. This •idly; the i-third are 50; area, •educed to d in Bass' rge Town, arbours in shing com- re villages, nds, which of 95,000 1 the larger or 14,000 are Indian- highly ser- 1 large and w 100 feet t in girth: imenced in in reading, sions, they rier, and to an clothing nds, on the al mission- len up their s, 20 or 30 tlements in called the Resident, who io invested with magisterial powers, and has autho- rity to send offenders to Sydney in New South Wales, for trial. At Hokianga, on the western coast, and about 20 miles from the Bay of Islands, another English colony has been established. Near this place, the British New Zealand Colonization Company has purchased a considerable tract of land; and emigrants are constantly arriving from Europe. In October, 1835, a number of the native chiefs of the northern island met at VV^aitunga (Bay of Islands), declared the country independent, under the title of the United Tribes of New Zealand; and decreed the sovereign power to reside in themselves alone in congress assembled : they, at the same time, invited the southern tribes to join their union, and solicited the British monarch to be- come its protector. The latter has granted a national flag to the New Zealanders. Papua, or New Guinea, lies north of Australia, from which it is separated by Torres' Strait : it is 1200 miles in length, and is l)elieved to be one of the most fertile countries in the world, but is almost unknown. The population consists of the Papuan, or oriental negroes, rather more advanced than those of Australia, mingled with the still ruder race of the Harafbras, who inhabit the interior mountains. LouisiADE, situated south of New Guinea, is supposed to con- sist of a number of islands lying very close together. New Britain, Nexo Ireland, Solomonh Archipelago, the New He- brides, and New Caledonia, are all in the north-eastern part of Australia; they are but little known, and are described as gene- rally fertile. The inhabitants of these islands are divided into petty tribes, and, like all savages, are constantly at war with each other ; and some of them arc said to be cannibals. Norfolk Island, about 1000 miles north-east from Sydney, is a penal settlement, to which convicts are sent who have been found guilty of crimes committed in New South Wales, and sen- tenced to hard labour for life, or for a long period. The number here is 500 : the whole population being about 800, including the military, &c. POLYNESIA. Polynesia, signifying the many isles, comprises the numerous groups of islands with which a great part of the Pacific Ocean is studded. They lie chiefly within the tropics, and are among the most delightful countries to be found in the world. The population 50* 594 oceAnica. mm . ■^IH tm.: -^ t!( of this region was formerly conjectured to be about 1,500,000 ; but is now supposed not to exceed one-third of that amount. The climate of Polynesia is mild and agreeable, the heat being moderated by the close vicinity to the sea ; and the inhabitants, in consequence, require but little shelter or clothing. The tempera- ture is remarkably uniform, and a perpetual spring seems to reign by the side of a perpetual summer. The larger islands contain lofty mountains, some of which arc volcanoes ; while others, reared by the coral insect, are low and almost on a level with the surface of the ocean. The soil of these islands yields many useful productions which grow either spontaneously or under the influence of culture. The yam, the tare, the sweet polatoe, and the plantain, all more or less answer the double purpose of bread and vegetables. The most important product is the bread-fruit tree, the trunk of which rises to the height of 40 feet, and attains the thickness of a man's body. The fruit is as large as a child's head : gathered before it is fully ripe, and baked among ashes, it becomes a wholesome bread some- what resembling fresh wheat bread in taste. The trunk of the bread-fruit tree supplies timber for building canoes and houses, the gum which exudes from it answers the purpose of pitch, and a species of cloth is made from the inner bark. There are no less than fifty varieties of this tree. The cocoa-nut is, after the bread-fruit tree, the most valuable : its fruit, its wood, its leaves, and its fibres, are all subservient to the wants and necessities of the people. Besides the articles enu- merated, oranges, shaddocks, limes, citrons, pine-apples, guavas, figs, &c. abound. The practice of tattooing, as in New Zealand, is also general among these people. The various figures impressed on the skin in this operation are not merely fanciful but are for the most part indicative of the tribe, rank, or sex of the individual. The native cloth of the Polynesians is produced by beating the bark of certain trees with a mallet until it becomes soft and pliable. From the leaves of the Pandanus tree fine mats are made, sometimes twenty yards square, and similar in texture to the plait of a Leghorn bonnet : splendid, and often fantastic head-dresses, are also formed of the feathers of various birds. The only domestic animals are hogs and dogs, both used as food; they form, however, luxuries which are indulged in only by the chiefs, and superior ranks. The larger animals are not yet intro- duced to any extent ; but the sugar-cane, rice, pine-apple, grape, and common potatoe have been carried thither by Europeans. The principal animal food of the inhabitants is derived from the sea, and the chief part of the fish is eaten raw. m': it'l POLYNESIA. 605 10 ; but it being ants, in nnpera- to reign contain 3, reared t surface IS which re. The e or less 'he most ich rises n's body. t is fully ad some- building swers the the inner valuable : (crvient to icles enu- 3, guavas, to general the skin most part le native of certain ?'rom the les twenty Leghorn so formed 'd as food ; nly by the yet intro- (le, grape, luropeans. from the These islands furnish but few commodities of much value in commerce ; the sandal-wood of the Sandwich and Feejee groups finds a ready market in China, but is now become scarce. The chief ports are much visited by whale and other ships for supplies of provisions, water, &c., which creates a market for the timber, live stock, and fruits of the various islands. About 200 vessels are supposed to touch annually at Tahiti or Otaheite, and double that number at the Sandwich Islands. The inhabitants of Polynesia appear to be of the Malay race ; and, though scattered over so wide an extent of oc^an, bear a striking resemblance to each other. In complexion, they are of various shades, often not darker than Southern Europeans, and in beauty and regularity of form, are mostly superior to the people of Malaysia. The inhabitants of this region arc often called South Sea Islanders. They are in general mild and gentle in disposition, and tender in their attachments, but often indolent and inactive : when en- gaged in war, however, or stimulated by some particular interest, they are courageous, fierce and cruel ; and their contests have been carried on with such barbarity that some islands have been entirely depopulated. When first visited by Europeans, many of these islanders had attained a certain degree of civilization ; being organized into re- gular societies, having a settled system of religion, laws and cus- toms rigidly adhered to, and a distinct division of society into chiefs and slaves. The inhabitants of the small islands are gene- rally more barbarous and cruel than those of the larger. The native religion of Polynesia may be ranked amongst the darkest forms of superstition. It not only gives no support to vir- tue, but affords full sanction to the most cruel and dissolute prac- tices. Cannibalism and infanticide were general in all quarters ; and are still common among the pagan inhabitants, besides the numerous animals offered in sacrifice, human victims were univer- sally put to death on the altars of the hideous idols worshipped by these people. One of the observances peculiar to these islands is, that of the taboo, in which the chiefs, or priests, may declare any place or object sacred, or consecrated ; and also punish with death those who infringe or disobey the regulation. Women are considered by the Polynesians as impure, and are not allowed to eat with the men, or to enter the morals, or temples of the gods. The American and English missionaries have effected, during the present century, a remarkable change upon the people of Polynesia ; and, in many mstances, they have obtained a predomi- nant influence. By their exertions numerous churches have been m H-.-;-' 596 OCEANICA, built, which the inhabitants frequent, decently dressed, and with a serious and reverential air. As soon as Christianity was established, schools were set on foot, and the natives applied themselves with much ardour to the acquisition of learning. After the first novelty, however, is over, many individuals become careless and indifferent : still, numbers of the islanders have acquired a competent knowledge of reading, writing, and arithmetic. Though much is yet wanting in the condition of the Christian converts, both us to knowledge and behaviour, yet it is undeniable that the labours of tl j missionaries have been highly bt^ncficial in these islands. Through their influence, the grossest superstitions have been abolished ; human victims are no longer sacrificed, in- fanticide has become extinct, and the murders and depredations so often perpetrated by the pagan islanders on European and Ameri- nan ships, have entirely ceased. The Ladrone, or MAniANNE Islands, lie about 1800 miles cast of the Philippines, and were the first known in this region, having been discovered by Magellan in 1521. They are covered for the most part with rich vegetation, and have been extolled by some navigators as forming a terrestrial paradise. The original inhabitants have been nearly exterminated in their war with the Spaniards : the few that remain can hardly be dis- tinguished from their conquerors. Though these people were de- scribed by their first discoverers as a race of thieves, yet they were more civilized than any of the South Sea Islanders. They built spacious temples, composed of pillars, and surmounted by a circu- lar dome ; their women were treated with kindness and humanity, and a rude species of money was coined, and used by them. Agri- gan, on the island of Guahan, is the capital of the group. It con- tains 3000 inhabitants, mostly Spaniards, with some Indians from Peru. The Caroline Islands lie immediately north of the equator. They extend from east to west upwards of 30 degrees of longi- tude, and are situated in a most tempestuous ocean, exposed to frequent hurricanes, some of which often sweep away the entire produce of an island ; yet the people are still more at home on the waves than even the other South Sea Islanders, and are distin- guished by their skill in navigation. They steer their course at night by the stars, and use a rude sort of compass. The greater part of the Caroline islands are low, and of coral formation. They comprise several groups of islands, of which the Pelew and Egoy are the best known. On the Pelew Islands, the ship Antelope was wrecked, in 1783, POLYNESIA. 697 with a set on ' to the 9 over, umbers eading, hristiiin Iciiiable ficial in rstitions iced, in- itions so Ameri- )0 miles i region, I covered tolled by cl in their y be dis- were de- hey were hey built a circu- lumanity, Agri- It con- lians from equator. I of longi- icposed to the entire ne on the Ire distin- ] course at le greater 3n. They ind Egoy ,m 1783, when Captain Wilson and his crew we.o treated by the inhabit- ants with the most generous kindn; Abba Thullc, the king, on the departure of the captain, sent with him his son, Prince Le Boo, who delighted the society of London by the amiable simplicity of his manners ; but, unfortunately, he was soon seized with the small-pox and died. Captain Wilson described the Pelew Island- ers in the most pleasing colours ; but subsequent navigators have represented them as displaying all the bad qualities incident to savage life. Central Archipelago. — This name has been applied from their central situation to a number of detached groups, extending to a great distance, chiefly to the south-east from the Caroline Islands, consisting mostly of Mitchell's, Ellice's, and De Peyster's groups, the Taswell's Islands, also Gilbert's Archipelago, Scarbo- rough's Range, and the Mulgrave Islands. The natives are gene- rally described as friendly, courteous, and amiable, free from the thievish propensities and dissolute conduct which are common in many of the other islands. The Sandwich Islands have been long known as a place of resort for American whaling-ships, and have also, for some time past, excited general interest on account of the important change effected in the manners, customs, and character of the people. These islands are ten in number, of which eight only are inhabited. They form, as it were, a solitary cluster, far to the north and east of the principal ranges of this region. Hawaii, or Owhyhee, the largest of the group, and also the largest island in Polynesia, occupies 4500 square miles of the 7000 constituting the area of the whole. Some of the mountains rise to an Alpine height, and have their summits wrapt in perpetual snow : those of Mouna Roah and Mouna Kaah are the most elevated of any insular mountains in the world, both being about 16,000 feet in height. There are several volcanoes in this group, and some of them are in constant activity. The soil is exceedingly fertile, and yields abundantly the bread-fruit,.sugar-cane, cocoa-nut, sweet potatoes, &c. In the year 1819, the inhabitants of these islands renounced idolatry, and burned their idols : this circumstance induced the missionary societies in the United States to send out ministers of the gospel to impart to them the religion and arts of civilization. A large proportion of the population has been instructed by them in reading, writing, and arithmetic : churches have been erected ; a press has been for some time in operation, at which school-books, the scriptures, newspapers and periodicals are printed in the lan- guage of the country ; and many useful arts have been introduced. 5Ud OCEANICA. Bin: Jit -fy ' i"'' J*. V .ill -H The town of Honolulu, in the island of Oahu, contains about 5000 inhabitants, of which nearly 100 are Americans and English. Great commercial activity prevails here; many European and American ships are always in the port: a considerable number of small vessels also i)elong to the natives. Sandal-wood is the most important native article of trade. The Mbxdana AnciiiPEiiAOo consists of two groups,* the Marquesas and Washington islands. The first wore discovered in 1596 by the Spanish navigator Alvaro Mendana, and after being long forgotten were re-discovered by Cook. The more northerly group was first visited in 1791, by Captain Ingraham, of Boston, and called by him the Washington Islands. They arc all mountainous, fertile, and well watered. The people of this group arc among the most finely-formed of any known race ; their complexion is but little darker than that of southern Europeans, but is visible only in 'he youths, for the tat- tooing practised all over the Pacific Occnn is carried to such a pitch, that the skin of an adult becomes the mere canvass of a picture. The operation begins at 12 or 13 years of age, but it is not until 30 or 35 that the person is entirely covered. The Society and Georgian Islands arc situated about 2500 miles nearly due south from the Sandwich group, and at about equal distances from South America and Australia. They are among the most fertile and b;nutiful islands in Polynesia, and are generally descril)ed under th^. name of the Society Islands : they are, however, geographically, as well as politically, distinct; being governed by ditferent rulers. The inhai)ilants were the first con- verts to Christianity in this quarter of the globe. They are now as much distinguished by their regard for religion and morality, as they were once for idolatry and licentiousness, and are fast advancing in learning, knowledge, and the arts. Tahiti, or Otahcite, the largest of the (xeorgian group, and the residence of the sovereign, is about 108 miles in circuit. The interior rises into high mountains, whose sides are clothed with trees and verdure almost to the summit. Eimeo, the next in size to Tahiti, is chiefly distinguished as being still the centre of that European and Christian civilization which originated there. It con- tains the South Sea Academy, a printing-office, and a cotton-factory. Ralntea, the largest of the Society islands, is about half the di- mensions of Tahiti. It is governed by a prince who has authority over some of the adjacent islands. King George's and the Prince of Wales' Islands, are small groups, situated about 300 or 400 miles north-east from POLYNE;!^! A. 15000 nglish. in and iber of le most ps,' the covered ul after e more Traham, d. The of any that of f the tat- 3 such a ■ass of a , but it is out 2500 at about riicy are and are ids: they ict ; being first con- are now morality, are fast In, and tho ;uit. The )lhed with lext in size Itre of that •e. It con- )n- factory. lalf the di- authority JANDs, are l-east from Tahiti, and inhabited by u race similar in Inngiinne id habitw but inferior in condition, to tho people of that island. The Pkarl, Paumoti:, Low Islands, und 1)am;i:k()i Ai; c-iiM'ELAOo, are the several names given to an almost numberless range of islets extending east and south-east of tho Georgian isles. Thoy are thinly peopled and but little known. Tho (Jambier islands, five in number, are tho most southern of this group. The Palliser Islands lie north-east from Tahiti. Tho prin- cipal of this group is Anaa, or Chain island ; the inhabilafits were once particulary noted for their vicious propensities. IIekvev's, or Cook's Islands, which extend nearly west from the Georgian group, rwc deficient in water, yet they are tolerably well peopled and cultivated. The Austral Islands, situated at from 400 to 000 miles south from Tahiti, are all small and scattered far apart from each other. Tho inhabitants of the three foregoing groups are similar in habits and language to those of the Georgian and Society islands. They were, some time since, rigid idolaters, and grossly ignorant and superstitious ; but they have been all, more or less, converted to Christianity. In some of the islands the entire population has been baptized ; and in nearly all of them churches and schools have been established. In the Austral group, the change has been effected by native Christian teachers, from Tahiti. The Friendly Islands are an extensive range, 150 in num- ber, and comprise the groups of the Navigator's, Feejee, Tonga, and Habaai islands. The character of the natives has been drawn in highly ffattering colours ; and the name given to them by Cap- tain Cook expresses his opinion of their disposition. Subsequent visiters have represented them much less favourably : the mission- ary cause, however, in some of these islands, has met with flattering success. In the Tonga and Habaai groups, more than 2000 chil- dren are instructed in the schools, and the church has upwards of 1100 native members. In the Navigator's islands, the gospel bids fair to obtain a steadfast footing among the people. The Navigator^s, or Samoa Islands, eight in number, are fer- tile, well watered, and appear to be very populous. The interio- of the largest of these islands contains lolly mountains, clothed with thick forests, which, with the wooded valleys at their base, watered by numberless streams and rills, present a beautiful landscape. The Feejee Islands, the largest of the Friendly Archipelago, are but imperfectly known : the people are still pagans, and are more ferocious, and of darker complexion, than those of any of the adjacent islands. This group is much visited by American vessels for sandal-wood. GOO U':i, OCEANICA. ii; **'* mr^ I ■ 'J The Tonffa hlanda, tho most southern of tlio Friendly Archi* ))clago, ure Ibrtilc and populous. Tho nufivcs cultivate 15 ditiercnt varietic» of tho brcud-l'ruit, besides yams of several kinds, and other roots. Lcfuga, tho principal of the Ilahaai hlanda, was long the residence of a chief who held sway over tho others. Vavaou, Cocoa-nut Island, and Aniargura, to tho north of tho Habaai group, are all Ibrtilo and well inhabited. Pitcairn's Island, which lies 1200 miles south-east from Tahiti, hns nltracled a remarkable degree of interest, in conse- quence of having been the retreat of the mutineers of tho ship Bounty ; nnd also from tho pleasing feelings excited on tho disco- very of their virtuous and amiable posterity. The island was visited, for the first tine aAer its settlement, in 1810, being twenty years subsequent to that event, by Coptain Fol- ger, an American, who found but one of tho mutineers alive: this individual, John Adams, having been led to habits of serious re- flection, was induced to devote himself to the education of tho women and children, which he performed with such good effect, that tho little community grew up to be, perhaps, the most orderly and amiable in existence. Adams died in 1829. Shortly aflerwards, the islanders, in consequence, it is said, of a scanty supply of water, emigrated to Tahiti, but being disappointed in their views, soon returned to their solitary, but interesting island. Sometime subsequent, a competent and worthy person was sent out by the British government to act as a teacher and magistrate ; but he was unable to prevent several dis- solute sailors from settling on tho island, whose wicked practices have, it is feared, already corrupted the minds of the simple inhabit- ants. The la.-it account represented tho population of Pitcairn's Island to be about 80 in number. Easter Island, tho most eastern of the Polynesian range, is about 20 miles in circuit. The natives are estimated to amount to 1200. This island was formerly celebrated for its gigantic busts, rudely carved out of huge blocks of stone ; but they have been destroyed. The Archipelagoes of Anson and Magellan are situated in the north-western part of Polynesia. They comprise a number of small groups and islands, situated for the most part distant from each other. On the Benin group, there are some American and English sailors settled, who took wives with them, a few years since, from the Sandwich islands : here they have built huts, and cultivate some small patches of ground, carry on fishing, &c. THE END. IS