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.\..f?.< 
 
 ¥' 
 
 ON THE 
 
 EXPLORATION 
 
 OV TUB 
 
 NORTH POLAR REGION. 
 
 THE PBOOEBDINOB OF THB ROYAL OBUOBAPHIOAL SOOI£TY, 
 
 AT THBm EVENINO MEETING, IK BUBLmGlON HOUSE» 
 
 ON THB 28n> JANUARY, 1865, 
 
 WBKM A PAPER WAS BBAD OK TBM ABOVB Bl^HnDOT, 
 
 By captain SHERARD OSBOBN, R.N., CB. 
 
 STB RODBRIOK I. MUROHISON, K.C.B., G.G.S^^S., D.OX.* 
 
 Ui.D., P.B.8., PBRSIDIirr R.«.8., 
 
 Im thr Ciuib. 
 
 ^'""'^V^OP^ffi-LSi. J 
 
 
 
%0 
 i 07- 1 o 
 
 I.OMIilXI rHINTKI* IIV M-. C!IA)WKR AM» 80NII, .STAMFORU FTIIKKT, 
 ANP ('HAKIN<i ClinW. 
 
 
ON THE 
 
 EXPLORATION OF THE NORTH POLAR 
 
 REGION. 
 
 Thk ordinary livening Meeting (the fifth of the present Session) of 
 the Royal Geographical Society, held on the 23rd of January, 1865, 
 was attended by a largo concourse of members and their friends ; 
 the Paper of the evening being ' On the Exploration of the North 
 Polar Region,' b}' Capt. Sherard Osbom, r.x. 
 
 Amongst the audience wore M. lo (V)mte do Paris, Count 
 Strzelecki, the Earl of Donoughmore, the Earl of Sheffield, Lord 
 Duflferin, Lord Colchester, Capt. Sir John Dalrymple Hay, Bart., 
 R.N., M.P., Admiral C R. Drinkwater Bethune, c.n.. Sir Henry 
 Rawlinson, k.c.b., Sir Charles Nicholson, Bart., Admiral Fanshawe, 
 Capt. Sir F. W. Nicolson, Bart., r.n., Capt. the Hon. A. Cochrane, 
 R.N., CD., Capt. G. A. Bedford, r.n., Capt. E. A. I'orchor, r.n., 
 John Ban-ow, Esq., f.r.s., John Lubbock, Esq., f.r.s. (President of 
 the Ethnological Society), John Crawfurd, Esq., F. Galton, Esq., 
 F.R.S., W. Spottiswoode, Esq., f.r.s., &o. Ac, and the following 
 gentlemen who have served in the Arctic Regions : — General 
 Sabine (President of the Royal Society), Admiral Sir Edward 
 Belcher, c.b., Admiral R. Collinson, c.u., (Japt. G. H. Richards, r.n. 
 (Hydrographor to the Admiralty), Capt. Inglefield, r.n., Capt. 
 R. V. Hamilton, r.n., Capt. W. W. May, r.n., Capt. Aldrich, r.n., 
 Staff Commander .1. E. Davis, r.n., Capt. Allen Young, r.n.r., Dr. 
 Rae, Dr. Domville, r.n., Dr. Donnet, r.n., Clements R. Markham, 
 Esq., Mr. Dean, r.n., <fec. 
 
 The ordinary routine business having been gone through, Capt. 
 SiiKRARD OsnoRN read as follows : — 
 
 Arctic discover)', however imperfectly treated, must always, I feel 
 sure, claim the attention of all true lovers of geography and 
 physical science, especially that of a Society which, in its present 
 prosperitj', represents the deep interest recently exhibited by all 
 grades of the public in the solution of the problem of a communica- 
 tion between the Pacific and Atlantic, and of the world-wide 
 
 n L' 
 
 pfTOQj 
 
4 EXI'I,0!5AT10N OF THK NOUTII I'OI.AK REniON. 
 
 sympathy in the nohlo devotion by which that mystery was 
 solved. 
 
 I need not, therefore, offer an apology to the merabors of the 
 Royal Geographical Society for any cfl'ort npon my part to show the 
 perfect praclicabilit}' of an exploration of the blank space aronnd 
 our Northern I'olo, and to place beft»rc yt)U opinions entertained by 
 myself, and those of my brother Arctic explorers who do 7int 
 belong to the new school of "rest and be thankful" men, either in 
 science or naval achievement, and who arc no more j)repared to 
 turn their backs npon the Arctic Ifegions because Franklin died off 
 King William's Tiand, than you woidd wish them to do so to an 
 enemy's fleet, because Nelson fell at Trafalgar. 
 
 In the year 1818, I)affin's discoveries upon the one hand, and 
 those of Ik'hring upon the olher, with dots for the mouths of the 
 Mackenzie and ] I earn L'ivers, was all we knew of the strange 
 labyrinth of lands and waters now accurately delineated upon our 
 charts of the Artie Zone. Sailors and travellers, in thirty-six years, 
 have accomplished all this : not always, be it remembered, in well- 
 stored ships, sailing rapidly from point to point, but for the most 
 l)art by patiently toiling on foot, or coasting in open boats round 
 every bay and fiord. Sir Leopold j\Ic(.'lintock tells the Ifoyal 
 Dublin Society that ho estimates the foot explorations accomplished 
 in the search for Franklin alone at about 40,000 miles. Yet during 
 those thirty-six years of glorious enterprise by ship, by boat, and 
 by sledge, England only fairly lost one expedition, and 128 souls, 
 out of forty-two successive expeditions, and has never lost a sledge- 
 party out of about one hundred that have toiled within the Arctic 
 Circle. Show me upon the globe's surface an equal amount of geo- 
 graphical discovery, or in history as arduous an achievement, with 
 a smaller amount of human sacrifice, and then 1 will concede that 
 Arctic explomtion has entailed more than its due proportion of 
 suffering. 
 
 They who assert that our labours and researches have merely 
 added so many miles of unprofitable coast-line to our charts, 
 had better compare our knowledge of Arctic phenomena to-day 
 with the theories enunciated by men of learning and repute a 
 century ago. They should confront our knowledge of 18G4 with 
 that of 1800 upon the natural history, meteorology, climate, and 
 winds of the Arctic Regions. I'hey must remember that it was 
 there we obtained the clue, still unravelled, of the laws of those 
 mysterious currents which flow through the wastes of the ocean 
 like two mighty rivers — the Gulf Stream, and the Ice Stream ; they 
 must remember that it was there — in Boothia — that the two Rosses 
 
 1 
 
KXPLORATIOX OF THB NOUTH POLAIl kKCJION. 
 
 y was 
 
 of tho 
 low the 
 around 
 nod by 
 
 do not 
 tlicr in 
 ftied to 
 iicd oir 
 
 to an 
 
 nd, and 
 3 of the 
 strange 
 pon owr 
 X years, 
 in well- 
 he most 
 s round 
 3 IJoyal 
 iplishcd 
 t during 
 oat, and 
 !8 souls, 
 
 1 sledge- 
 Arctic 
 
 t of geo- 
 nt, with 
 ede that 
 »rtion of 
 
 merely 
 chiirts, 
 a to-day 
 repute a 
 iG4 with 
 ate, and 
 ,t it was 
 of those 
 hu ocean 
 ,m ; they 
 ro Rosses 
 
 first reached the Magnetic Pole, that mysterious point round whi<;h 
 revolves tho mariner's compass over one half of the Nt)rtliem 
 hemisphere ; and let the world say whether the mass of ohservntions 
 collected by our (explorers on all sides of that Magnetic Pole huvo 
 added nothing to tho knowledge of the laws of magnetic declination 
 and dip. They should remember how, a few years ago, it was 
 gravely debated whether man could exist through tho rigours and 
 darkness of a Polar winter, and how wo have only recently dis- 
 covored that Providence has peopled that region to tho extreme 
 latitude yet reached, and that the animals upon which they subsist 
 are there likewise, in winter as well as in summer. All this, and 
 much more, should bo borne in mind by those cynics who would 
 have 3'ou believe wo have toiled in vain ; and I hold, with tho late 
 Admiral IJeechey, " that every voyage to the Noi-th has tended 
 to remove that veil of obscurity which previously hung over the 
 geography and all tho phenomena of the Arclic Kegions. liefore 
 th()«e voyages all was darkness and terror, all beyond the North 
 Cape a blank ; but, since then, each successive voyage has swept 
 away some glooniy superstition, has brought to light some new 
 phenomenon, and tended to the advancement of human know- 
 ledge." 
 
 I will not dwell upon the personal hardships or risks incurred — 
 they can be easily discounted at any Insurance Company in tho 
 City of London, and the privations are best appreciated by those 
 who have been sledging over the barren grounds of 7(>' x., and are 
 not scaretl by the recollection of cold fingers an«l banian days. 
 Men do not volunteer for certain death or starvation, and I can 
 only say that so popular is >\rctic service with our sailors, that I 
 am frequently asked by oK* "bipmates, " Are we g«»ing up that 
 way again, sir? Please don't a)rget I am a volunteer ! " Tho fact 
 is, more sailors have been thrown to the sliiuks from the diseases 
 incident to service in China and tho coast of Africa, within tho last 
 four years, than ever fell in thirty years of Arctic service, and our 
 seamen and officoi's know it. And, after all, the dangers of exploration 
 in the north are those common to like undertakings in all unknown 
 regions — Spoke and Grant seeking for the sources of tho Nile, 
 Burton at Ilarar, Freemont in the Siena Nevada, Livingstone on 
 the Zambesi, or 13urko and Wills in tho hungry wilds of Central 
 Australia, have all moments of as great peril as Kane ever endured 
 in Smith Soimd, or McClure passed through in Banks's Tiand. 
 
 I will, therefore, without farther preamble, deal with the points 
 which are the most important for our consideration. 
 
« 
 
 EXPLORATION OF THE NOKTH I-OLAR REGION. 
 
 ! I 
 
 Ml 
 
 h 
 
 First. The direction from which a Polar exploration Blionld be 
 undertaken with the least risk and greatest probability of success. 
 
 Second. The mode in which such an expluruiiou should bo exe- 
 cuted, and the scientific results likely to accrue. 
 
 We have before us a circumpolar chart. Mark the nearest known 
 points to the Pole — the extremes of Spitzbergon and North 
 Greenland. Let us first deal with Spitzbergen. Hakluyt Head is 
 about GOO miles from the I'ole : in the last century the whale fishery 
 was situated oflF that Cape, and wo have the concurrent testimony 
 of all those ancient fishermen to prove that the sea was often found 
 clear of ice for another hundred miles further north. 1 say, 
 therefore, that sailing-ships have been in that direction within 500 
 miles of the Pole. For the information of those more sanguine than 
 myself of the existence of open water at the Pole through the action 
 the Gulf Stream, I annex a table collated, by my kind friend Mr. 
 Markham,* from the data furnished to tho Koyal Society by the 
 Hon. Daines Bamngton, Colonel Beaufoy and others. You will 
 there find that stout old Dutch and English skippers vowed they 
 had been as far north as the 88"^, some to 83'^ n., and many into the 
 82^^ pai*allel: indeed one old sailor declared to Master Moxon, 
 hydrographer to Charles II. of glorious memory, that " he had 
 sailed two degrees beyond the Pole ! " but it is only fair to add that 
 this was said in dreamy Amsterdam, over strong Dutch beer. 
 
 I am content, however, to point to the position reached by tho 
 late Sir Edward Parry, in his boat expedition from Spitzbergen in 
 1827. There, at any rate, ho stood upon a floating sea of ice on the 
 night of July 22, 1827, being then in lat. 82^ 45' n., exactly 435 
 geographical miles from the I'ole. He was constrained to give up 
 the attempt simply because the ice was being swept faster to the 
 south than his men could drag their boats to the north. It was the 
 height of the Arctic summer, and all the ice-fields were in motion. 
 The experience of the last twenty years tells us that instead of 
 starting on such a journey in June, Parry ought to have wintered 
 in Spitzbergen, and started for the North in February ; and such is 
 tho perfection to which Arctic sledge-equipment is now brought, 
 that the weights would be infinitely less for the men to drag, whilst 
 the provisions would last months instead of weeks. 
 
 But there are great objections to any effort to reach the Polar 
 area by sledges from Spitzbergen. You will observe as yet no 
 known lands exist upon its meridian and to the north of the island ; 
 
 lS<.'i.' p 27. 
 
i:XPLOKATION UK THE NORTH I'OLAR KKdlOX. 
 
 cnnsequently no fixed points for depots of proviNions: whereas, in 
 Smith Sound, we havo a starting-point 120 miles nearer to the 
 I'olc, and there is good ground for believing (as 1 will show) in 
 a further extension of continents or islands upon the meridian of 
 the^Auieriean and Greenland continents, which is not the case in 
 Spilzbergcn. For instance, the floes which drift down upon Spitz- 
 bergen from the north contain in their embrace no icebeigs prf»]>er. 
 This tells us that no extensive lands lie upon that meridian ; 
 fur the iceberg is a creation of the land, bom of a glacier, and not 
 of the sea : whereas these icebergs abound in Smith Sound ; and 
 the glaciers, as Kane advanced northward, appeared to increase 
 rather than diminish in extent, which would not be the case if the 
 land ended abruptly near the Humboldt Glacier, in 80° n. latitude. 
 
 Those vast accumulations of snow and fresh-water ice, and their 
 beautiful creations the iceberg, tell us of great lands with lofty 
 mountains and deep valleys retaining the moisture and snow-drift 
 of ages, and promise that continuity of coast-line, and that frozen 
 seaboard, which is only needed to enable our explorers to reach the 
 Pole in safety. Greenland, therefore, and not Spitzbergen, is the 
 direction I advocate. At the same time, do not jimip to the con- 
 clusion that there is nothing to reward the explorer in the direction 
 of Spitzbergen or Kova Zembla, for there is much yet to be seen 
 and done there in scientific research. The bugbear of Arctic navi- 
 gation is being gradually dispelled. ♦ A Cruise in High Latitudes,' 
 and * A Sejison among the Walruses,' encoui-age us to hope, that 
 where yachtsmen havo not hesitated to go for pleasure, and where 
 poor Norwegian fishermen yearly sail in almost open boats for 
 hides, ivory, and the more precious livers of Arctic sharks, which 
 produce, as you know, *' pure cod-liver oil ! " it is possible others 
 will yet wend their way for love of science, and add to our know- 
 ledge of the laws of electricity, light, magnetism, temperature, and 
 winds. 
 
 From Spitzbergen let us turn to Greenland. In the year ]85.'{ 
 my lamented friend Dr. Kane entered Smith Sound, at the head 
 of Baffin liay, with his little brig, the Admnce. At that time I was 
 serving with Capt. liichards, the present Ilydrographer of the Navy, 
 in an expedition in Wellington Channel, under Sir Edward Belcher ; 
 Kellett and McClintock wore in Harrow's Straits, McClure had 
 just reached the waters of the Atlantic from the Pacific Ocean, 
 CoUint^on and Ifae were in Victoria Land and Poothia, and Ingle- 
 field had just made one of his summer trips to Peechey Island. 
 There could not have been loss than four hundred Pritish subjects 
 within the Arctic seas. All our ships had been admirably found, 
 
8 
 
 KXI'LOKATION OF THK NORTH I'OLAR REGION. 
 
 '\ 
 
 and our crews liveil in comparative comfort, for the resources of a 
 nation and a great navy had been placed at our disposal. Dr. 
 Kane's expedition was rather the result of private munificence, and 
 a generous impulse of individuals ; and it is only fair to Dr. Kane 
 to say, that never in our times has a navigator entered the ice so 
 indiflerently prepared for a Polar winter. With only seventeen 
 followers, two of them mutineers, without a steam-power for his 
 solitary vessel, without proper sledge-equipment, without any pre- 
 served fresh meat, and a great insufficiency of preserved vegetables, 
 and with only coals enough to serve for twelve months' fuel, the 
 only raarA'cl to mo is, that he ever returned to relate his sufferings. 
 They are only to be equalled by those of the navigator " James," 
 in Hudson's Bay, two centuries earlier. God forbid that I should 
 bo thought to cast one reflection upon those warm-hearted Ame- 
 ricans who came nobly forward, and said, •' Wo too will aid in 
 Arctic enterprise;" but the fact is, that enthusiasm and high 
 courage without proper knowledge and equipment must, on such 
 service, infallibly lead to the suffering which Dr. Kane's followers 
 endured ; and it is tlutt which best explains how it was, that whilst 
 our sailoi-s, far beyond the present haunts of Esquimaux, waxed 
 fat and fastidious, Kane's poor followers had to eat the raw flesh of 
 animals to avert the ravages of scurvy brought on by a poisonous 
 dietary of salt-meat. ITiis much to meet the objections of those 
 who point to Dr. Kane's thrilling narrative with a view to frighten 
 us fiom Arctic exploration ; and I may add, that I know well that 
 chivalrous man never penned those touching episodes to frighten 
 men from high enterprise, but rather to caution us to avoid his 
 mistakes, and to show us how nobly the worst evils may be borne 
 when the cause is a good one. 
 
 The brig Advance entered Smith Sound, but departed from an 
 Arctic canon by keeping upon the eastern or lee-shore instead of 
 the western or weather-shore : she was quickly beset, and fell into a 
 bay sixty miles further on, out of which she never again sailed. 
 
 In the spring of 1854 a further exploration was accomplished, of 
 about 1 GO miles of the Greenland coast, and the western land was 
 observed for a still greater distance. The extreme of Greenland visited 
 was a point beyond a stupendous tongue of the great glacier, and 
 named Cape Constitution by the only man (Mr. Morton) who reached 
 it. This sailor could not get round the Capo because of water existing 
 at the base of the cliffs ; he could not scale the cliff, because it was 
 too steep ; what more there is, therefore, beyond Cape Constitution, 
 none of us know. Kane thought it the termination of Greenland. 
 I entirely dissent from so hasty a conclusion, because I cannot 
 
EXPLOUATION OF THE NORTH POLAR RKOION. 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 'ces of a 
 Dr. 
 lee, and 
 >r. Kane 
 
 ice so 
 venteen 
 
 for his 
 iny pro- 
 ;etableH, 
 uel, the 
 fferings, 
 James," 
 
 1 shotild 
 d Amc- 
 
 I aid in 
 id hi^h 
 on such 
 ^llowers 
 it whilst 
 , waxed 
 
 flesh of 
 oisonouH 
 of those 
 frigliten 
 veil that 
 frighten 
 void his 
 30 borne 
 
 from an 
 ibtead of 
 
 II into a 
 iled. 
 
 ished, of 
 and was 
 1 visited 
 ier, and 
 reached 
 existing 
 le it was 
 titution, 
 jenland. 
 
 cannot 
 
 believe that such a glacier as that of Humboldt, ever bearing the 
 hundreds of icebergs, which Kane tells us of, into the waters of 
 8inith Sound, was fed otherwise than by some extensive parent 
 glacier »<pread over a very great area ; and this proclaims, in my 
 opinion, a continuity of the Greenland shore, as there was, un- 
 doubtedly, land on the opposite side as far as Morton could see. 
 
 Scrambling up the face of Cape Constitution, to the height of 
 either 300 or 500 feet, Mr. Morton could see no ice to the westward ; 
 to which I attach small importance, never having mywelf seen floe- 
 ice from any altitude at a greater distance than 12 miles; but he 
 did see land rolling away to the northward, a bold but indented 
 coast, he thinks, with a fine range of mountains looming in the 
 interior. This land is appropriately named Grinnell Land. 
 
 English and American hydrographers are at variance as to the 
 assigned latitudes of Cape Constitution and C'ape Parry, the two 
 extremes discovered by Kane. I sincerely trust the American 
 computation will prove cori-ect. Cape Constitution will then bo in 
 81° 22' N., and the point seen on the west land would be in about 
 82° 30' N., or just 4.50 miles fi-om our Pole, a distance equal to thai 
 of the Land's Knd from Balmoral. 
 
 But in order that we may deal with the subject from its worst 
 point of view, I am prepared to accept the more southern positions 
 assigned to the extremes by Admiral Collinson, Captain George, 
 and Mr. Arrowsmith. They, as you will observe, place Cape Con- 
 stitution in lat. 80" 56' n., and credit Morton's vision with a range 
 of 60 miles ; fixing Cape Parry in lat. 81° 60' only, or a distance of 
 484 miles from the Pole. I accept this as the distance we have to 
 deal with, and declare that Cape and Grinnell Land as my assur- 
 ance of the perfect possibility of reaching the Pole. 
 
 Cape Parry is, as you see, a fixed point, more than a degree and 
 a half nearer to the Pole than Hakluyt Head, in Spitzbergen, and 
 therefore the best point of departure for the exploration of the great 
 unknown space before us. 
 
 The distance of Cape Parry to the Pole and back is just 968 
 miles ; a distance which has been repeatedly exceeded by our Arctic 
 sledge and boat parties since the year 1850, and far short of what 
 we subsequently accomplished, as I will presently show. 
 
 But, apart from mere proximity to the Pole, there are other con- 
 ditions which recommend this route to our consideration. It will 
 be remembered that at Cape Constitution a considerable extent of 
 water was found to exist in the early summer. Recent Arctic ex- 
 plorations have taught us that this is no great novelty. Dr. Kane, 
 however, believes it to be very extensive; but. as I have good 
 
 B 3 
 
10 
 
 EXPLORATION OF THE NORTH POLAR REGION. 
 
 1 f' 
 
 reasons for being sceptical npon this point, and as the Pole is within 
 our reach whether Kane's Polynia he great or small, I shall not 
 nrge the facilities which open water offers to a boat-navigation. 
 The future explorer might hail open water if it were found to exist 
 along the shores of Grinnell Land ; but, if not, he would be well 
 satisfied with plenty of ice, and merely pray that the mainland or 
 off-lying islands should be found to exist as far as the 87th parallel. 
 And there is, I hold, more chance — far more <^hanco — of that 
 being the case, than of any open sea round our Arctic Polo. 
 
 But Kane's Polynia evidently exists where there is a far greater 
 abundance of animal and vegetable life than we have found to exist 
 round the water-holes of Regent's Inlet, Wellington Channel, or Lan- 
 caster Sound. The possibility, therefore, of future explorers of 
 Smith Sound being able to vary their dietary with the flesh of 
 deer, bear, seal, or wild-fowl, is an important recommendation to the 
 route in question. 
 
 In this meridian, too, we find human life extending to a higher 
 latitude than in any other known direction. A fine tribe of Arctic 
 savages was first discovered by Sir John Ross in lat. 75° 35' n., 
 long. 65" 32' w., in his voyage of 1818. Ross christened this iso- 
 lated section of the gieat Esquimaux race, '* Arctic Highlanders." 
 Through his interpreter, Sackense, ho learnt that their tribe 
 dwelt to the northward of the great glacier of Melville Kay ; by it 
 they were entirely cut off from all knowledgo of anything in that 
 direction, and when Ross told them that his ship had come from the 
 south, they replied — " It was not true ; there was nothing but ice 
 there ! " Subsequent Arctic expeditions, as well as whale-ships, 
 have had intercourse with these people and so far conciliated them, 
 that instead of offering to kill Europeans, as they threatened in 
 1818, we find them in 1854 positively saving Kane and his followers 
 from starvation, and cheerfully sharing food and lodgement with 
 the poor sailors. Of this isolated group of the human family Dr. 
 Kane gives us a very interesting account. Having no boats, nor a 
 knowledge of how to construct them out of bones and seal-skins, as 
 other Esquimaux do, afraid to cross the two great ice-streams of 
 Melville and of Humboldt, these poor creatures inhabit a region, 
 between the prongs of the Greenland Glacier, which embraces 
 about GOO miles of coast-line, and they cannot penetrate far into the 
 interior, for there they said was the " Sernik Soak," or Great Ice 
 Wall I 
 
 Without any drift-wood, except a fragment of wreck at rare 
 intervals, the Arctic Highlander is compelled to use bones alone in 
 the construction of his sledge and weapons. The latter consist 
 
EXPLORATION OF THE NORTH POLAR REGION. 
 
 11 
 
 s withiu 
 shall not 
 vigation* 
 I to exist 
 
 be well 
 nland or 
 
 parallel, 
 -of that 
 
 r greater 
 I to exist 
 , or Lan- 
 lorers of 
 flesh of 
 ion to the 
 
 a higher 
 of Arctic 
 5° 35' N., 
 this iso- 
 tlanders." 
 eir tribe 
 ly ; by it 
 ig in that 
 from the 
 ig but ice 
 ale-ships, 
 lied them, 
 atencd in 
 followers 
 aent with 
 iimily Dr. 
 ats, nor a 
 L-skins, as 
 streams of 
 a region, 
 embraces 
 ,r into the 
 Great Ice 
 
 k at rare 
 )s alone in 
 er consist 
 
 simply of knife, harpoon, and lance, bones lashed together with an 
 iron point or edge ingeniously fitted from fragments of meteoric 
 iron found in the country, or from scraps of iron hoops which reach 
 the coast upon the casks of wrecked whalers. Without a bow or 
 ari'ow, they are unable to kill reindeer or musk-oxen ; tLe former 
 range unmolested over the barren uplands at the base of the 
 glaciers ; and the art of fishing is likewise unknown, for Kane saw 
 lakes full of salmon trout which the Arctic Highlander could not 
 catch. With his spear and hai-poon, however, he slays the bear, 
 seal, and powerful walrus ; and in summer time nets vast quan- 
 tities of the little auk, a delicious morsel well appreciated by all of 
 us who have visited those Crimson Cliflfs of Beverley, as Eoss poeti- 
 cally named their haunts. These people are thus dependent for sub- 
 sistence upon the flesh of marine creatures, and consequently upon 
 the existence of broken ice, or open water near the coast, through- 
 out every season of the year. Without it they would all perish 
 in a single winter. But a Beneficent Providence has so arranged 
 it that from the action of oceanic currents, and the destruction 
 of the ice-fields by the large icebergs thrown off" from the glaciers 
 constantly sailing through them, there is always, even in the depth 
 of a Polar winter, some " North Water " to be found, and in it walrus 
 and bear. The land, as I have said, yields these Arctic fishermen 
 no animal food, neither can I discover an instance of their ever 
 having been seen to partake of a single herb, grass, or berry grown 
 upon the shore ; of vegetables or cereals they have, of course, no 
 conception, and I know of no other people on the earth's surface 
 who are thus entirely carnivorous. Kane says they must be an ex- 
 piring race. I can find no proof of it, though no doubt, like all 
 savage races, they are doomed to pass away or merge into those of a 
 superior organisation. Where Ross found the Arctic Highlanders in 
 1818, they exist in 1864, and from occasional contact with Euro- 
 peans have rather improved than deteriorated. All who have seen 
 them, and I am one, describe the men as square-built, hearty fellows, 
 deep chested, bass-voiced, and merry-hearted. Ready to fasten on 
 with their hai-poon to a fierce walrus, and, line in hand, struggle 
 for life with it upon the weak ice ; or, aided by their dogs, bring the 
 Polar bear to bay, and close in upon it with lance and knife ; yet these 
 poor savages showed in their kindness to the starving and not always 
 rational crew of the Advance^ that they were not deficient in the 
 nobler attributes of our common nature. Their women, good souls, 
 were tender and sympathetic in their quaint way, for it is not every 
 European mother who would lend a nice warm babe to make a soft 
 pillow for a weary traveller, as the ladies of Etah did ; and the 
 
 B 4 
 
II 
 
 12 
 
 EXPLORATION OF THE NORTH POLAR REGION. 
 
 ! 
 
 spinsters of Smith Sound were fair enough to win the hearts of 
 some on boai-d the Advance. Indeed more than one little scandal 
 related leads me to believe that, in spite of the stniggle for exist- 
 ence in 80° N., the unwashed, sealskin-clad beauties of Murchi- 
 son Sound have their little flirtations, as well as their sisters of 
 ampler robes in more southern climes. *' One touch of nature makes 
 the whole world kin ; " and I know nothing more strange in all 
 Arctic adventure than when Kane was escaping southward, to find 
 his faithful hunter, Hans, voluntarily abandoning'^him and;^turning 
 Arctic Highlander all for the love of Shanghu's pretty daughter — she 
 had gently tended him when injured in a walrus-hunt. The elope- 
 ment of the fond pair upon a bone-sledge, drawn by wild dogs, is 
 perfect as an Arctic love-scene ; but, unfortunately, Hans was 
 already a married man. *' Alas for Hans ! " Dr. Kane pathetically 
 observes. I say, " Alas for Miss Shanghu ! " 
 
 It has not been without a purpose that I have thus touched 
 upon the habits of the Arctic Highlanders. I have endeavoured 
 to show you that, though carnivorous creatures, they are, after all, 
 much as we are in other respects : it tells you that there, in Smith 
 Sound, inhabitants exist who have helped the European and can 
 do so again; and, above all, their existence is an incontestable 
 proof of an amount of animal life being found in that latitude 
 throughout the year and in all seasons. 
 
 Kane says that his Arctic friends would not carry him beyond the 
 Humboldt Glacier, and seemed to have no knowledge of lands to 
 the north. Yet Morton found a fragment of an Esquimaux sledge 
 on shore between that glacier and Cape Constitution. May it not 
 be that other Esquimaux exist there? and does not the question 
 occur to you. How far does human life extend in Smith Sound? 
 May it not reach much nearer to the Pole than even where Kane 
 found it in 80" n. ? So far as we know, the Arctic Highlanders 
 are confined to the Greenland shore ; and for our purposes of explo- 
 ration it would be well it were so. They would then be near 
 enough to aid as hunters and sledge-drivers, and not so close as to 
 endanger good order and discipline amongst a orew in hours of 
 trial or suflfering. 
 
 There is one more reason for preferring this route to any other, 
 viz., that the Danish settlements extend along the coast of Greenland 
 as high as 72° n. Kane in open boats carried off his men in safety 
 to Upei-navik, when it became imperative to do so ; other navigators 
 could do likewise, if any accident occurred to their ships in Smith 
 Sound. Trusting I have shown the right direction in which the 
 proposed exploration should be attempted, I will now sketch out 
 
 wise 
 
 k 
 
EXPLORATION OF THE NORTH POLAR REGION. 
 
 13 
 
 the mode in which it should be carried out ; for the details would 
 be too technical and voluminous to interest all geographers. 
 
 An exploration of the Polar area should alwa3'8 be sent under 
 naval auspices and naval discipline. I have no faith in purely 
 private expeditions on such a service as this I advocate. We need 
 all the resources of a naval dockyard, all the especial knowledge 
 collected in various departments — whether in the preparation of 
 vessels, food, raiment, sledges, or equipment — to insure the work 
 being well and safely done. Wooden ships-of-war are now rotting 
 and sinking at their anchors in our arsenals; all the old ladies 
 round our seaports are cooking their tea with heart-of-oak from 
 poor chopped up gunboats. W^e don't want three-deckers, but you 
 might have them for the asking; you can be more modest, and 
 ask for something much smaller than wooden line-of-battle-ships. 
 Of course you will not expect the Admiralty to take the initiative 
 in such matters. Columbus would never have reached the new 
 continent ; the immortal Cook would never have made his voyages 
 round the world ; the illustrious names of Franklin, Ross, and 
 Parry would not have been added to the rolls of fame ; if you had 
 waited for past Admiralties to originate scientific research and 
 geographical exploration. 
 
 But 1 have no doubt men of science — men who think the Navy 
 and its officers and sailors exist for nobler purposes than to slay or be 
 slain — will find His Grace the Duke of Somerset just as amenable to 
 reason and healthy pressure aa former First Lords have been. The 
 Board, like other Boards, will, as good servants of the public, do 
 whatever the public calls upon them to do ; and it is by the action 
 of public opinion, directed by the men of science in this country, 
 that I hope to see a Polar expedition sent forth in this generation 
 under naval auspices. The Navy needs some action to wake it up 
 from the sloth of routine, and save it from the canker of prolonged 
 peace. Arctic exploration is more wholesome for it, in a moral as 
 well as a sanitary point of view, than any more Ashantee or 
 Japanese wars. 
 
 You are not going to educate us, work us up to the point of 
 nautical perfection, awaken hopes and ambition, and then give us 
 oakum to pick, or run us over the mast-head after top-gallant yards, 
 to keep down the spirit which intellectual progress has evoked. 
 The navy of England cries not for mere war to gratify its desire for 
 honourable employment or fame. There are other achievements, it 
 knows well, as glorious as victorious battle ; and a wise ruler and a 
 wise people will, I hold, be careful to satisfy a craving which is 
 
14 
 
 EXPLORATION OF THE NORTH POLAR REGION. 
 
 1 
 
 *l 
 
 
 the life-blood of a profession— indeed, 1 hold that it ought to be 
 fostered and encouraged. 
 
 Upon these grounds, as well as those of scientific results, would it 
 be too much to ask for a fmction of the vast sum yearly sunk in 
 naval expenditure, for two small screw-vessels and 120 oflBcers and 
 men, out of the 50,000 men annually placed at the disposal of the 
 Admiralty ? 
 
 Let us suppose it granted, and two vessels like the Pioneer and 
 Intrepid ready by the spring of 1 806. They would sail for Baffin 
 Bay, reach Cape York in August, and one vessel would be secured 
 in or about Cape Isabella, leaving only twenty-five persons in 
 charge of her; the other ves'feel, witli ninety-five souls, would be 
 pressed up the Western shore, either as far as Cape Parry or in 
 that direction, taking care not to exceed a distance of 300 miles 
 from her consort. That autumn the southern ship would connect 
 herself by depots with the northern vessel, and the northern vessel 
 would place out depots towards the Pole ready for spring operations. 
 
 In 1807 and 1868 sledge and boat operations should be directed 
 towards the Pole and over the unknown area, and in 1869, either 
 in ships or by boat to Upcrnavik, our expedition would retire from 
 Smith Sound. They would thus only have two winters and three 
 summers to encounter ; a period which experience has taught us 
 healthy men, with proper care, can well spend at a time in those 
 regions. 
 
 With respect to the distance to be traversed by sledge, we have 
 ample data to show that it has been exceeded by our sailors and 
 marines in the most sterile land yet visited within the Frigid Zone. 
 For instance, in 1853, Commander McClintock's party did 1220 
 geographical miles in 105 days; Lieutenant Mecham did 1203 
 miles; and Captain Hichards and I did 1003 miles. Mark, that all 
 these distances are in excess of the 008 miles between Cape I*arry 
 and the Pole. Lieutenant Hamilton did 1150 miles with a dog- 
 sledge and one man. Yet, in subsequent expeditions to those of 
 1853, still longer marches have been accomplished, and the men 
 suffered still less. In 1854 Mecham marched 1157 miles in only 
 seventy days, a gain of a month in time, equal to a distance of 300 
 miles more had it been necessary ; and in 1859 Captain McClintock 
 actually accomplished !.joO miles and Young 1150, and that dis- 
 tinguished officer. Sir Leopold McClintock, agrees with me in 
 thinking that it is quite possible with proper management to extend 
 a journey over a distance of 1500 miles, or just 500 miles more 
 than are required to take a sledge from Cape Parry to the Pole and 
 
 i 
 
 ^ 
 
EXPLORATION OF THE KORTH POLAR REGION. 
 
 15 
 
 back. Thanks to hard-earned experience, we have learnt in ten 
 years to double the period a sledge-party may support itself away 
 from the ship, and trebled the length of the journies to be accom- 
 plished ; yet at the same time reduced the labour of the seamen and 
 the personal risk to its minimum. 
 
 I am not vain enough to suppose my unsupported opinion of the 
 practicability and safety of a sledgc-exploratiun of the Polar area 
 would suffice to convince you all ; but I can confidently appeal to an 
 officer of far gieater experience, Captain Sir Leopold McClintock. 
 He, writing to me in December last, says: "I am glad you are 
 poking up the embers of Arctic discovery. I wish I were now pre- 
 paring for a trip to the North Pole. I regard it as being within the 
 reach of this generation ; for knowledge, as you know, is power in 
 sledge-travelling." Can you doubt the practicability of such an 
 exploration, I say, after such a declaration from an officer who 
 has spent seven winters and ten summers in these seas ? I am sure 
 you will not ; and that you will say with me, that of all men he is 
 the best fitted to head such an expedition. 
 
 8rd I'oint. We have now to consider the final portion of my 
 argument : — The advantages to bo derived from an exploration 
 of the Polar area. 
 
 In the first place, you as a scientific body have before you an un- 
 known area of 1,131,000 square miles of the globe's surface a sheer 
 blank. Within that area you are profoundly ignorant whether 
 there be lands or waters ; whether, as some say, it is a silent frozen 
 solitude,, or an open sea teeming with animul life. So far as you 
 as yet have explored in that direction, you have found the land 
 capable of supporting not only animal, but human life. 
 
 Moreover, as connected with physical geography, you have in 
 80" of North latitude reached the only known spot whore Nature 
 yields to man no plant, herb, or grass, which ho uses for food 
 or nutriment. Yet, imperfect as the botanical exploration of that 
 Hpot has been, wo learn from the report of the able American 
 botanist, Mr. Durand, that although Dr. Kane lost the major portion 
 of his collection, the remainder "was yet the richest and most 
 interesting ever brought by Arctic or I'olar explorer;" and Kane 
 added no less than twenty-seven species of plants to the list recently 
 published by that eminent Arctic naturalist. Sir John liichardson, 
 as existing to the north of 73" of latitude. Proving that, at any 
 rate, tliore was an error of 50 per cent, in the botanical geography 
 of the region under consideration. 
 
 . To botanists, therefore, as well as geographers, there is eveiything 
 to be discovered within the Polar area; and not only the botany of 
 
16 
 
 EXPLORATION OF THE NORTH POLAR REGION. 
 
 I'l , 
 
 ij ; 
 
 \ I 
 
 the land, hut that of the sea, and of the fresh-water lakes and rivers 
 flowing from the glaciers of that ice -hound region. Immediately in 
 connection, too, with the distribution of the animal and vegetable 
 kingdoms of the Polar Basin, we have to solve more than one strange 
 anomaly in the climate that has been noticed upon its margin. 
 
 The lowest known winter mean temperature has been recorded 
 by Dr. Kane, in the very region which is so rich in Arctic flora, 
 where the natives can support themselves alone upon the chase of 
 marine creatures, and where the reindeer are so abundant that 
 a traveller subsequent to Kane shot 600 head, and supported his 
 party upon fresh food throughout a long winter.* There, in Rens- 
 selaer Harbour, with open water not far to the south, with open 
 water, as he believed, not far to the north, Kane records a winter 
 mean temperature lower than we have found at Melville Island, 
 where at that season we feel sure that there was no open sea 
 nearer than the Mackenzie River, or the entrance of Lancaster 
 Sound. Mr. Schott, the able American meteorologist, puzzled with 
 the anomaly of so low a temperature near the reported open Polar 
 Sea, says that "it points conclusively to either a considerable 
 northern extension of Grinnell Land on the one side and an eastern 
 extent of Washington Land on the other, or to a considerable eleva- 
 tion of the interior on both sides of the channel above its level," 
 and acknowledges that his conclusions are at variance with the 
 supposed existence of an ocean around the Pole free for navigation. 
 
 The fact is, that meteorology is quite as much at fault there 
 as elsewhere when it proceeds to theorise upon insufficient data. 
 And, in a scientific point of view, I maintain that nothing could bo 
 more deeply interesting than a careful series of meteorological 
 observations within the Polar area. Its climate is, as I have 
 shown, a mystery; and Kane's rough observations require to be 
 verified, as well as those of our searching-expeditions, by sending out 
 a scientific expedition, with people well versed and earnest in that 
 science alone. 
 
 In geology, and especially in the phenomena of those stupendous 
 glaciers, as well as the great ice-streams of Humboldt and of Mel- 
 ville, there is much to repay the future explorer of Smith Sound. 
 In the presence of men so eminently qualified to point out what is 
 most deserving of scientific investigation under these heads, it 
 would ill become me to do more than advert to the subject. 
 Indeed, I feel I owe an apology to all men of science for even 
 daring to touch upon subjects of which I as a sailor can have 
 
 " Mr. Cornelius Grinnel! informs mc of this interesting fact cpnnectcd with 
 Dr. Hayes* second visit to Smith Sound. 
 
EXPLORATION OF THE NORTH POLAR REGION. 
 
 17 
 
 only the most fragmentary knowledge. But I am also addressing 
 myself to those who know little of such subjects, and who may 
 be carried away by the cuckoo cry of '* Cui bono ? " in discussing 
 further geographical exploration. The learned Council of this 
 Society are not likely to say so, I know well, or to ask me to 
 demonstrate the necessity for further scientific research based upon 
 an argument touching whale-oil, whalebone, walrus-hides, seal- 
 blubber, narwhal-ivory, deer-skins, peltry, or Upeinavik graphite. 
 I should as soon think of urging the exploration of New Guinea 
 upon the speculation of profits arising from the tails of birds-of- 
 paradise or edible birds'-nests. 
 
 No ! I put the question before you upon purely scientific grounds ; 
 and I ask you — the Geographical Society — if you are not satisfied 
 with the geographical harvest that awaits 3'ou there, to turn to the 
 Royal Society and ask the learned Council whether there is any- 
 thing likely to repay the explorer of the Pole for his labours ? I 
 can confidently appeal to its l*resident. General Sabine. He is 
 to-day the senior living officer of those who accompanied Ross and 
 Parry in their early explorations of the Arctic Zone. In Spitz- 
 bergen, Melville Island, and East Greenland he collected those 
 valuable data in terrestrial magnetism which have subsequently 
 led to the construction of those beautiful chaiis exhibiting the 
 declination, inclination, and intensity of the magnetic force over 
 the globe's surface — a wonderful reduction of scientific data to good, 
 useful purposes, which every sailor can appreciate and be grateful 
 for. And does he tell us that there is nothing more to be done in the 
 Arctic Zone ? On the contrary, in General Sabine's Address to the 
 Royal Society, on Nov. 30th, 1863, he dwells especially on the 
 pleasure with which he learns that the Swedish Government are 
 about to carry out in Spitzbergen that measurement of an arc of 
 the meridian, the value and importance of which the learned 
 General had urged forty years ago upon the attention of the British 
 public, and which, he says, '* I had planned the means of exe- 
 cuting, and which I ardently desired to be permitted to carry out 
 personally." 
 
 General Sabine's original interesting paper upon the measure- 
 ment of this arc was addressed to Mr. Gilbert, M.P., Vice-President of 
 the Royal Society in 1826. In it he pointed out the facility offered 
 by Spitzbergen for a measurement of an are of the meridian extend- 
 ing over nearly 4^ degrees of latitude, stating that the value of this 
 measurement, in the latitude of Spitzbergen, towards deducing the 
 proportion of the polar and equatorial diameters by its combination 
 with an are near the equator, ** was most important ;*' and adding 
 
18 
 
 EXPLOILMION OF THE NORTH POLAR REGION. 
 
 n 
 
 at 
 
 
 
 M 
 
 that its value would be " equivalent to an arc in Lapland of dix 
 times the extent of the arc measured by the French Academicians." 
 
 Now the hope of the Royal Society of this measurement being at 
 last obtained depends upon the scientific energy of the Swedish 
 Government ; but it so happens that in the expedition I urge upon 
 your attention there might be every arrangement made for a mea- 
 surement of four degrees of the meridian upon the shores of Smith 
 Sound. I have told you that one of the ships should be left about 
 Cape Isabella, and the other pushed on to Cape Tarry, or that tl at 
 point is to be considered our main station for a Polar expedition. The 
 intervening space is rather more than four degrees ; and during the 
 summer season, whilst the Northern Expedition was absent, there 
 could be no more profitable way of occupying those left in the 
 charge of the ships than in doing such a work as measuring an arc ; 
 the ice of the strait, I would submit, aftbrding considerable facilities 
 for such an undertaking ; and especial provision in the expedition 
 might be made for such persons as were well qualified to exe- 
 cute it. 
 
 As late, too, as November, 1864, we find General Sabine, in his 
 Address to the Royal Society, calling the attention of that scientific 
 body to some recent discoveries which attest the continuation of the 
 tropical Gulf Stream to the shores of Nova Zembla, and to a com- 
 munication from Professor Forchhammer, of Copenhagen, "a 
 valuable contribution to a great subject — the History of the Sea " — in 
 which, by careful analysis, it is shown that, in the Atlantic Ocean, 
 the saline ingredients in the sea-water decrease with increasing 
 depth. This is found to hold good even to extreme depths; and 
 the existence of a Polar current in the depths of the Atlantic is 
 hence inferred, since it is a well-established fact that the Equatorial 
 seas are richer, and the Polar seas poorer in saline ingredients. 
 Again, by analj'sis it has been proved that the current flowing 
 down the east coast of Greenland has an Equatorial and not a 
 Polar origin — a mere recurring of the Gulf Stream after rounding 
 Spitzbergen ; and the learned President fairly argued — " May it not 
 be possible that the iceless sea teeming with animal life, described 
 by Kane as viewed from the northern limit of his research, is, as 
 he himself surmised, but an extension of the same Equatorial 
 stream which produces corresponding abnormal efiects at every 
 point to which its course has been traced?" and adds, "when 
 physical researches shall be resumed within the circle which sur- 
 rounds the Pole, this, perhaps, will be one of the earliest problems 
 to receive solution." In a recent letter to me he eloquently and 
 justly adds, '* to reach the Pole is the greatest geographical achieve- 
 
EXPLORATION OF THE NORTH POLAR REGION. 
 
 19 
 
 mont w-Iiich can be attempted, and I own I should grieve if it 
 Hboiild be first accomplished by any other than an Englishman ; it 
 will be the crowning enterprise of those Arctic researches in which 
 our country has hitherto had the pre-eminence." 
 
 I will not add one word to such testimony ; but place this Paper 
 in your hands, Sir Roderick Murchison, confident that you will 
 give the cause I have feebly advocated the same enlightened 
 support that geogi-aphical exploi-ation has ever found at your hands. 
 To you, Sir, since the death of Sir John Ban*ow, Arctic discovery 
 owes everything, especially from the time that the search for your 
 lamented friend, Sir John Franklin, was undertaken ; but for your 
 aid and counsel his resolute widow would never have brought to 
 light the glorious achievement of her husband ; but for you. Sir, 
 and the judicious pressure brought to bear by men of influence 
 in this country upon official inei-tness, Sir Robert McClure would 
 have perished in Banks's Land, and the honour of the North- West 
 Passage have been left to another generation ; but for you, and the 
 Royal Geographical Society, that Chart to-day would have been 
 left the blank it was in 1820, and that page of naval glory would never 
 have been written, of which Great Britain has such just reason to 
 be proud. Let me, as a sailor, thank you for those services to my 
 profession, and urge you to persevere to the end, in order that your 
 long services to science may be crowned with the addition of Polar 
 discovery to the domain of human knowledge. 
 
 After the conclusioa of the paper, the President spoke as follows : — The 
 subject brought under our consideration this evening, by our distinguished 
 Associate, Captain Osborn, is one deeply interesting to all cultivators of science, 
 and to geographers in particular ; whilst it gratifies me to know that tlie senti- 
 ments of this gallant officer are warmly esix)used by that enlightened class 
 of our Society, to whoso labours we owe so much — the Naval Surveyors of 
 Britain. As one of them. Captain Osborn has satisfied us of the small amount 
 of exploration, comparatively sjicaking, which remains to be accomplished to 
 solve the desired problem. He has shown us, not by guess or theory, but by 
 an actual appeal to facts, tliat in the Arctic Circle his associates and himself 
 have travelled, by sledges and on foot Ufwu the ice, far longer distances than 
 tliuse which are required to reach the North Pole from stations which have 
 been already reached. Ue has even pointed out the well-known Arctic officers, 
 lieaded by M'Clintock, who arc ready to serve in this proi)osed ex|x;dition. 
 From his own experience, and by a reference to the statistics of former 
 exjKKlitions, he removes an erroneous opinion which many of our countrymen 
 have laboured under, that there is mucli danger in such enterprises, whilst he 
 convinces us, that there is in them just that amount of adventurous risk which 
 is the heart and soul of a British sailor's life. He further assures us, that 
 among our best seamen many volunteers will be found who much prefer an 
 Arctic voyage to service in many other seas, and ho cites the testimony 
 of naval medical men as to the healthiness of the far northern climate. 
 Now, if (as I expect) the fate of my illustrious friend Franklin be thrown 
 in our teeth wlien we advocate this project, let our opponents remember that 
 
20 
 
 EXPLORATION OF THE NOKTH POLAR REGION. 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 t 
 
 i; i 
 
 that great navigator sailed for the express purpose of finding a North-West 
 passage by unknown seas, and that, in forcing through his ships by water, he 
 perished in gloriously realising his object. In the proposed expedition no such 
 calamity can he dreaded, for it has no analogy to tlie case of Franklin. 
 Acconlin? to the plan of Captain Osborn, the two ships he asks for would be 
 so stationed, at jx)ints beyond Haffin Bay whence other ships have returned, as 
 to ensure their safety ; and, as to the djinger of sledge-surveys, not one life, he 
 tells us, has been lost in them during the many years of active Arctic service. 
 Captain Osborn has dwelt so etfectively upon the im|iortance of the various 
 scientific results to be derived from this enterprise that I need not revert to 
 all of them, though it is my duty, as your President, to express my own 
 sense of the great desirableness of moasurinij, for the first time, an arc of the 
 meridian in so high a latitude ; and the President of the Koyal Society, General 
 Sabine, himself an Arctic explorer and the companion of Parry, is here to 
 testify his approbation of the project, particularly in reference to those phe- 
 nomena of terrestrial magnetism which he has done so much to illustrate. 
 Itejoicing that other men of science, including the President of the Ethno- 
 logical Society, are also favourable to the scheme, I say that it is on these 
 broad groimds of scientific research that we have to thank Captain Osborn cor- 
 dially for bringing forward the i)roi)osal in so hearty and f)erspicuous a manner. 
 On our part, let us not weaken the di^rnity of our calling by any endeavour to 
 show the cut bono of such a survey by the ho|)e of obtaining profitable com- 
 mercial results, since it is quite enough for us to be assured that the scientific 
 objects to be attained are well worthy of the efibrt. I trust therefore, that, as 
 British geographers, you will feel with me that it specially pertains to our 
 nation, which, by the conduct of its bold and skilful voyagers, has delineated 
 on the Map of the World the outlines of land and water over so large an 
 area of the Arctic regions, to complete this grand survey, by an endeavour 
 to hoist the Union Jack at the North Pole itself. 
 
 The President concluded his remarks by reading the following extract from 
 the writings of Sir John Barrow, so many years Secretary of the Admiralty, 
 and a mainspring of all Arctic enter^iriscs : — 
 
 " The physical power of the navy of England has long been duly appreciated 
 at home ; also by most foreign nations, and is matter of public record ; its 
 moral influence, though less the object of publicity, requires only to be more 
 extensively known to he equally felt and esteemed ; and nothing can be more 
 conducive to this end than the results to be derived from voyages of discovery, 
 whose great aim has been the acquisition of knowledge, not for England alone, 
 but for the general benefit of mankind. 
 
 " But it may be asked, ' Cui bono are these northern voyages undertaken ?' 
 If they were merely to be prosecuted for the sake of making a passage from 
 England to China, and for no other purpose, their utility might fairly be ques- 
 tioned. But when the acquisition of knowledge is the groundwork of all the 
 instructions under which they are sent forth, when the commanding officer is 
 directed to cause constant observations to be made for the advancement of 
 every branch of science, — astronomy, navigation, hydrography, meteorology, 
 including electricity and magnetism, and to make collections of subjects of 
 natural history,— in short, to lose no opportunity of acquiring new and im- 
 portant information and discovery ; and when it is considered that these 
 voyages give employment to officers and men in time of peace, and produce 
 officers and men not to be surpassed, perhaps not equalled in any other branch 
 of the 8ervice,[the question * Cui bono f ' is readily answered in the words of the 
 Minister of Queen Elizabeth, * Knoxcledge is power.* " 
 
 General Sabine, President of the Royal Society, said it was almost un- 
 necessary to say that he most heartily concuiTcd in the project so ably 
 
EXPLORATION OK THE NORTH POLAR REGION. 
 
 21 
 
 s of 
 im- 
 lese 
 luce 
 inch 
 the 
 
 un- 
 iblv 
 
 proposed by Captain Sherard Osborn. He was ])articularly itnprcsfled by what 
 that gallant officer had said with regard to ailbrding to the officers of the navy 
 an opportunity of enterprise and distinction in a time of peace, and he knew 
 no better field for their exertions than explorations in the Arctic rejsjions. 
 Many of our most distinguished officers in the navy had been trained in that 
 school, among them Captain Osl>orn himself, Sir Leopold McClintock, Captain 
 Kochfort Maguire, and many gentlemen in that room whom he might name if 
 they were not present. It was not to be supposed th;^t in the present day, 
 when the interest in geographical and in all the physical sciences has so much 
 increased, that so large a portion of the globe, lying almost at our hands, 
 should remain uncxi)lored. And could this task be achieved at a more suitable 
 time than this, when we have amongst us so many men trained in that school 
 comixjtent and willing to undertake it? He held it to be a great honour to Sir 
 Leopold McClintock, and an honour to his profession, that he was willing to 
 give up the command of one of the finest frigates in the service in order to 
 conduct the expedition. On the j>art of the Royal Society, he might say that 
 there were many subjects of the highest importance which they could suggest as 
 requiring investigation by such an exiiedition ; and they would be ready to 
 co-operate in the recommendation by furnishing, at a suitable time, a state- 
 ment of the objects in physical science which could be prosecuted without 
 imjwding the main or geographical pur|X)Sc. 
 
 Admiral Sir Edward Bei.cher was happy indeed to find this subject taken 
 up by Captain Osborn, and should be glad to see it carried out. The only 
 difficulty he apprehended was the probability that the floe to the north would 
 be found in a moving condition, the same as Parry found it to the north of 
 Spitzbergen, and by which he was compelled to return. Beyond this, he saw 
 no risk in any part of Captain Osborn's plan. It was a curious fact that a dif- 
 ferent temperature prevailed on the two sides of Baffin Straits. On the 
 Greenland side the land is warmer. When the expedition under his command 
 arrived at Disco, wherever the sun bore upon the sides of the hills, which were 
 of a coal or shaly formation, the snow melted instantly. This took place 
 early in July ; and from it he concluded that on the eastern side of the straits 
 and the eastern side of Smith Sound, there would be more vegetation, owing to 
 the gic'ater warmth of the earth caused by the thaw mixing with the iron 
 pyrites in the shale. On the western side, so far as he explored it to the 
 north, he found on the 20th of May the whole of the sea in that direc* 
 tion in motion, quite open to navigation by a boat. If it had been possible 
 to get his boat over the obstacles which beset it — pinnacles of ice about twenty 
 feet high, mixed up together like teeth — he should have preferred that mode 
 of travelling. In latitude 78° 10" he found on the islets quantities of deer- 
 tracks, horns of deer, and during the summer geese found their way to the 
 open water. The cliffs at the same date (the 20th of May) were washed by 
 the sea. Therefore, he had no hesitation in saying that the northern part of 
 Smith Sound, which was found washed by the sea, must agree with the line of 
 cmreut that i>assed to the northward of his expeditionary party of 1852. On 
 that occasion, going up Wellington Inlet, the ice suddenly came in and drove 
 them into Northampton Sound ; but afterwards, on their sledge- journey, he 
 got on to the summit of Exraouth Island, and saw the whole of the floe 
 beneath him crumble into small pieces and move ofl" to the west, and he 
 returned a distance of about eighteen miles in a boat, which he had previously 
 traversed in a sledge over the floe. Therefore, he inferred that to the north- 
 ward the ice is in motion much earlier than it is to the southward, for Barrow 
 Strait is not open or navigable till late in August, and this was in May. Ob- 
 servations had been made with regard to the food that people at the North 
 prefer. It happened that during the winter, when he was certainly in a 
 delicate state of health, although ptarmigan and hares could be found, he strongly 
 
 I 1 
 
22 
 
 EXPLORATION OF THE NORTH POLAR REGION. 
 
 lit •* 
 
 I»referml bear and walrus, and ho bt'lleve<l that the use of bear-flesh had con- 
 ducwl to his recovery. There was something curious with regard to the tein- 
 l«rature of this n^gion. Ue did not know what was Kane's mean temperature 
 for the 176 days. 
 
 Captain Ohhobn said it was not jriven. His lowest temperature was four 
 dejirets lower than any other on record. 
 
 Sir K. Bkuher thonijhtit was a curious fact that in the Arctic regions, over 
 the whole jK-riod txaniiiinl by navipitors, the moan wld for 176 days, from the 
 southern |K)int where Hoss travelled up to the northern jioint where McClintock 
 was, never varitnl more than a decimal jtoiut between 9^ and 10*^ below zero. 
 The currents that had been observed to the northward invariably seemed to 
 take to the westward ; and in the moving floe that he noticed from the summit 
 of Mount Britaimia he was unable to see a single iceberg. Consequently he 
 ))elieved all the ice to the north would be found to be floe-ice, perfectly free 
 from iwbergs ; and that the iceKrgs shot ofl" from (.Ireenlaud all went south to 
 the banks of Newfoundland. He might ol)serve that if the cunents in the 
 Arctic regions were difierent at the surface from what they were at greater 
 depths, the icebergs, which are eleven i>arts un«ler water, would be constantly 
 moving up the floe instead of travelling with it. He thought this great 
 problem of the Polar region should Ije solved by England ; not agitated here, 
 and the Americans allowetl to take the lead as they did in Japan. Among the 
 names of eminent Arctic explorers, he was sorry that 8ir Francis Beaufort had 
 not been mentioned. With regard to the health of the men, if the men were 
 well examined before they started, he believed they would be in much finer 
 condition at the end of the three years than when they set out. 
 
 Mr. John Lubbock, President of the Ethnological Society, said Captain Osbom 
 had hit ofl* in a few words the main ethnological interest of the exjjedition. 
 There was no doubt the manners and customs of savage life, the simple yet 
 complicated contrivances by which they carry on the struggle for existence, 
 always had great interest for those who live in more civilised countries. But 
 of late years the remarkable discoveries that had taken place with reference to 
 the antiquity of man, the various questions which hsid been opened up by 
 the researches of M. Lartet, had certainly thrown upon these questions an 
 entirely new interest. As had been truly observed, man, in the earlier times 
 of which we have any relics, apjtears to have been not only a savage, but a 
 savage living under Arctic conditions. Therefore, the native tribes who might 
 be observed in the projected exi)edition wore precisely those who would have the 
 greatest interest for us at the i)resent moment. In the earliest voyages under- 
 taken in the Arctic seas most interesting and valuable accounts had been given of 
 the manners and customs of the Esquimaux, and even of the Arctic Highlanders 
 who had been alluded to this evening. Still, there were many questions which 
 we should like to have answered, and which, a few years ago, would not have 
 occurred to anybody to ask. Most of those who had travelled among savages 
 had brought back with them the more reniarkable specimens of their skill 
 and ingenuity ; whereas, if we examined tlie remains which are found either 
 in drift, or in the pile-villages of Switzerland, or in the shell-mounds of Den- 
 mark, it is not the best weapons, those which have been made with the greatest 
 amount of labour and skill, but the woret, those which were most commonly in 
 use, and which could he most easily made, which are the most often discovered. 
 It is therefore precisely those with which the ethnologist and archanjlc^st have 
 principally to deal, which have met with the least amount of attention from tra- 
 vellers who have had the opjiortunity of studying the manners and customs of 
 modern savages. He happened to have in his jXHjket a very simple little flint 
 implement, which is extremely abundiuit in all the places in which the remains 
 of ancient man have been discovered within the last few years. This instru- 
 ment is flat on one side, convex on the other, roimded off at one end, and 
 
EXPLOnATION OF THE NORTH POLAR REGION. 
 
 23 
 
 pointed at the extremity. It belongs to a type which is well known to 
 archaH)logi8t8, and was det«cribed by ouo of our most eminent men in this 
 dc|>artmcnt of science, as having probably had the round end tixed into a 
 handle, s< ■ that the sharp edges might Ik; used as a knite. The general opinion 
 had formerly l)een tliat the narrow end was put into a handle, and the broad 
 end used as ascmpT ' >r the prei«iration of skins. This might have been a 
 point for diw.uKsion lor <i long time had it not iiapiHjned that an instrument 
 like this hail Ik.-('I) found in use amongst the Ks(piimanx, and \vc> now knew 
 how it -IS used by tlieni. Thus one of the questions relating to the habits of 
 the early history of man was satisfactorily solved. It might appear a very small 
 jMjiut to know how a little bit of flint like this was used; but it is by these 
 small ix>iDt8, by meat)s of these little glimmers of light, that we can alone ho]X) 
 to obtain some information as to the mode of life of our ancestors in ihc earliest 
 times of which we have any record. He trusted, therefore, if this exix,'dition 
 should be carried out, that the attention of the explorers would be particularly 
 directed to the simpler and ruder implements which they might find in use 
 among the tribes they might visit. There was one little jKtint in the jtajier u|ion 
 which he should like to have fiu-ther information. Captain Osborn said 
 these fieople living so far north must evidently have had supplies of food all 
 the year round. Now, he did not venture to question this, in a people living 
 so far north ; but he thought it jjrobablc that supplies of meat were stored for 
 future consumption. In these northern regions it is very easy to preserve meat ; 
 it does not require to be hermetically sealed, or to undergo any diflieult pre- 
 paration. Sir Edward Belcher had already described, in the Transactions of 
 the Ethnological Society, some large stores of meat which he found under 
 some Esquimaux habitations. This was an interesting point with reference 
 to the remains of ancient man of which we have heard so much lately, because 
 we must all be struck with the question, how it was that so large a number 
 of bones should have been originally collected in these French caves ; and here 
 we get a glimpse of exjilanation in the analogous state of things described by 
 Sir Edward Belcher as existing in the habitations of the Esquimaux. Thus 
 we see that in one year these jjeople could collect a sufficient quantity of food 
 to last for a considerable time, and it might not be that game was plentiful 
 in all seasons. 
 
 Captain Hamilton stated that in 1853 he crossed over from Davy Island, 
 where he had been wintering under Admiral Kellett, to Sabine Bay. He 
 ascended the land to the northward, and after meeting Captain Richards and 
 Captain Oslwru, crossed by Morton Channel. The ice all the way was evi- 
 dently the formation of that year. I'his was in May and June. There were 
 no tides or currents, nothing to show any undue pressure of ice on that shore. 
 Sir Leotx)ld McClintock, who travelled to the westward, met with the same 
 sort of ice ; and to the northward there was nothing to indicate any undue pres- 
 sure of ice on that shore. From that it was to be inferred that there must be 
 land to the northward. To the west of Paget Land the ice was of the heaviest 
 character — indeed the heaviest ever found by an Arctic navigator. On 
 McClure Island the ice was found eight or ten feet high. 
 
 Mr. Clements R. Mark ham was glad, as the humblest of those who had 
 ever served in Arctic expeditions, to have this opportunity of expressing his 
 intense satisfaction in listening to Captain Osbom's paper. An exploraDou of 
 the North Polar regions is now one of the greatest problems that remain for 
 geographers to solve. What old Martin Frobisher said of the North- West 
 Passage 300 years ago may now be as aptly said of the North Polar regions : — 
 " It is the only thing in the world that is left undone, whereby a notable 
 mind might be made famous and fortunate.'* Among the numerous ^loints of 
 scientific interest connected with the Polar regions, he would allude to the 
 ethnological point — the migration of races — and to the question how far north 
 
 I" 11. 
 
24 
 
 EXPLORATION OF THE NORTH POLAR REGION. 
 
 -!i 
 
 J' i' 
 ■ ji 
 
 II 
 
 man had fixed his permanent habitation. When the Normans first discovered 
 Greenland in tlie eleventh century, they found it uninhabited — a silent land. 
 They dwelt there a century and a half or two centuries ; and then they appear 
 to have been exterminated by a race of Skraelings or dwarfs, who were the 
 Esquiniaux. Observations had thrown some light upon the direction whence 
 these people came. Along the whole length of the Parry Islands, east and 
 west, we found the remains of Esquimaux. It hapix;ned that just at the 
 period that the Skraelings appear to have exterminated the Normans, Zenghis 
 Khan arose in Central Asia and poured forth his hordes west and north over 
 Tartary and Siberia. It is jiossible that the invaders may have caused a 
 ])ressure on the i)eopIe of the north coast of Siberia, who wandered thence along 
 the shores of Parry Islands, and, finding them uninhabitable, wandered on and 
 on, unable to find a fixed habitation, until they arrived on the coast of Green- 
 land. There they found a very difl'erent country, and one in which they could 
 live ; and meeting there only a smatl body of Norman colonists, they exter- 
 minated them, spreading afterwards to the south as far as Cape Farewell, 
 and away to the north as far as Kane went. No importance was to be 
 attached to an Esquimaux saying he believed there was no one furtlier 
 north or further south ; because the Arctic Highlanders have no canoes, and 
 therefore have no knowledge of inhabitants north or south of them. It is not 
 at all impossible, therefore, that they may be found in small communities as 
 far north as the Pole itself. This ethnological question is only one of the 
 numerous interesting points which this pajier raises, and which the proposed 
 expedition will throw light upon. 
 
 Lor*^ DuFFEBiN said he had listened with the greatest pleasure, interest, and 
 admiration, to everything that had been said, and, as far as his opinion was 
 concerned, it seemed to him that the projected expedition was a proper object 
 of national ambition. No difficulties of an insurmountable character appeared 
 to present themselves, and if it were not that he had recently encumbered 
 himself with trammels of a domestic character, he should humbly ask to be 
 allowed to enrol himself a volunteer. 
 
 Dr. DoNNET wished to add a few words with regard to the health of the ex- 
 pedition which he had had the honour to lielong to. He served under Admiral 
 Austin in 1850 and 1851. They had a crew of 180 men, and the expedition 
 was away altogether about twenty months. Tliey lost but one man, and that 
 poor fellow died frost-bitten. With resi)ect to the salubrity of the Arctic 
 regions, he thought there was not the slightest objection to the proposed 
 exploration on this score. The expedition to which he belonged had for food 
 chiefly the salt and preseiTcd provisions which were supplied to the ships. 
 
 Mr. John Cuawi^jbd had not one word to say except in the way of 
 thorough approbation. Captain Osborn had given a most complete and satis- 
 factory account of the projected exixjdition. He came into the room not per- 
 fectly satisfied with his pioject ; but now he had heard the statements, he was 
 thoroughly convinced and was prepared to advocate it wherever he went. 
 With respect to the Esquimaux, they were certainly a remarkable p<?ople. He 
 had lately been inquiring into the question of cannibalism, and he found that 
 at one time or another all our forefathers of every race of man were cannibals, 
 with the exception of one race, and that was the Esquimaux ; he had not been 
 able to discover a single instance of cannibalism among them. He appealed to 
 Captain Osborn, if lie had ever heard of a case. 
 
 Captain Osborn said, as far as his information went, he had never heard of 
 an instance. 
 
 Captain 1 nolefield thought there could he bu t one opinion among geographers 
 as to the paper of Captain Osborn. The subject divided itself under two heads : 
 first, as to the objects of such an exjiedition ; and secondly, as to the possibility of 
 carrying out the enterprise. He thought we had been well assured that the 
 
EXPLORATION OF THE NORTH POLAR REGION. 
 
 25 
 
 object of the expedition was a very important one in a scientific point of view ; 
 and as to the possibility of carrying it out with comparative safety, he fully 
 concurred in all that had been said. He had been into Smith Sound, and had 
 seen ojien water there as far as the eye could reach, and he beUeved it was 
 quite practicable to reach the Pole through that opening in the northern seas. 
 He congratulated Captain Osborn upon the jiaper he had read, as being clear in 
 its details, and proving satisfactorily to those who may style themselves 
 Arctic navigators that the voyage is ])racticable, and that the adventure is one 
 that quite recommends itself to Englishmen and geographers. 
 
 The President said Sir Edward Belcher had made allusion to that admir- 
 able man, who was beloved by all geographers, and who liad done more for 
 Arctic discovery than any other man he knew — Sir Francis Beaufort. It 
 would ill become him not to mention the name of that eminent man to whom 
 both he and the Society owed so much. As Hydrograjiher to the Admiralty, 
 Sir Francis Beaufort had been succeeded by Admiral Washington, and he in 
 his turn had been succeeded by Captain Richards, the present Hydrographer to 
 the Admiralty, who had also distinguished himself in Arctic expeditions. He 
 thought it would worthily conclude the discussion to call upon Captain 
 Richards to express his opinion of the project. 
 
 Captain Richards believed it was known to every one ci the platlbrm that 
 he was in op])Osition. However it was only due to his friend Captain Osborii 
 to give him credit for the powerful arguments he had used in support of his 
 project. Captain Osborn had shown that it was an easy thing to reach the 
 North I'ole ; and for his ^mrt he looked upon it as a piece of child's play in 
 comparison with what had already been achieved. With regard to the scicu- 
 tific objects of the expedition, he could readily imderstand that General Saliine 
 would be delighted to get an arc of the meridian measured in the Polar regions ; 
 that the field of meteorological inquiry which would be opened to Mr. Olaisher 
 would be highly appreciated by him ; that Professor Huxley would add another 
 laurel to those he had already gathered in his own particular branch of 
 science ; and that Sir Roderick Murchison himself even might find some new 
 light thrown on the science of geology from a visit to the Pole. And, after 
 all, he did not know why the British nation should not have the honour of 
 completing the discovery. With regard to the difficulties and risks, it had 
 been his fortune to be associated with his friend Captain Osborn in one of 
 these long Arctic expeditions, and during that time he could not recall that 
 they went through any great amount of suffering ; at all events, nothing 
 that would deter them from offering to go agjvin. Before he commenced liia 
 opposition, he might say that he was almost deterred from doing anything of 
 the kind by a remark that fell from General Sabine, that with a great area 
 like the Polar regions at our very threshhold, we ought to find out all about 
 it. That was the most convincing argument he had heard in the course of 
 the evening. He saw plainly that at this late period of the proceedings ho 
 was not likely to make any impression on the minds of the audience, who 
 would at any rate acknowledge that he stood uj) against great disadvantages, 
 and ho would therefore, with their permission, defer his opposition until a more 
 convenient occasion. 
 
 Captain Osborn, in reply, said if anything could add to the pleasure of the 
 evening, it was to find that the ofticial opposition was to lie of so good-natured 
 a character ; and he hoped their Lordships would take their tone from their 
 Hydrographer. The question which Mr. Lubbock put was one which had 
 attracted his attention before he inserted it in the paper. Kane always found, 
 as other explorers had found, that in the height of the season when, the Esqui- 
 maux were killing rapidly, that the flesh they could not eat was collected in a 
 heap on the shores, stones piled loosely over it, and they then went away to 
 
 kill more. That formed a cdchc. Like all 
 
 savages. 
 
 they VKie singularly 
 
26 
 
 EXPLORATION OF THE NOUTH FOLAll REGION. 
 
 improvident. His brother found the Esquimaux of Lancaster Sound, who had 
 killed a quantity of food during the time the ice was there, feeding on putrid 
 walrus-flesh in the summer time; they had killed it in the early season, and 
 had not the wit to bury it in an adjacent glacier to preserve the meat. Kane 
 testified to the improvidence of "these people : they were constantly starving 
 when during nea}j-tides in mid-winter the sea froze over. In the winter of 
 1854-5 they ate their dogs, but to their credit no case of caimibalism was 
 recorded though several are supposed to have died of starvation. A calm 
 winter was the worst difficulty they had to contend with. As long as the 
 gales were blowing, and the icebergs were in motion, the walrus could break 
 through the thin ice near the shore ; but during the neap-tides the icebergs 
 grounded, and the sea froze over, and the walrus was obliged to seek water 
 in the offing. He wishal some naturalist had spoken of the peculiarities of 
 animal life in that region. Here was the walrus, as big as two oxen, feeding 
 through the long cold nights of an Arctic winter in 80^^ N., yet it was doubt- 
 ful whether it could be called a carnivorous animal. He liad often fount" in 
 its stomach a great many stones, as if they were required to assist in the 
 digestion of some hard substance, which he thought ;uust be the root of a 
 seaweed. This creature was always there breaking its way through the ice. 
 On one occasion he and Captain Kichards found a waliiis in the depth of the 
 )yinter in 77° N. , with its young lying beside it. Then again we have the 
 seal, and it feais on fish ; and he must particularly call attention to the vast 
 quantities of seal which existed all about these regions, thus indicating that 
 there must be an immense quantity of fish existing there. And all this in 
 regions where Kane tells us he found the thermometer ranging from G(P to 
 75*^ below zero during three months of the year. It was most astonishing, and 
 it was necessary, in the interests of science, that the statement should be verified. 
 He was really grateful to Sir Edward Belcher for having mentioned the name of 
 one who was the first to take him by the hand, and pass him from the routine 
 of Her Majesty's service, and show him that there was a better field for a 
 naval officer in a time of peace than washing decks and cleaning brass-work. 
 There never was one who held an official position who carried to his grave 
 a greener heart. Had it remanied with Sir Francis Beaufort to explore the 
 globe in time of jieace, there would be few naval officers idle. Often, when 
 downhearted respecting the search after Franklin, Sir Francis Beaufort said 
 to him, " Young man, don't despond. Go and induce others, men like Sir 
 Roderick Murchison and General Sabine, who stood around that heroic woman, 
 Lady Franklin, to move the public, and the Admiralty will follow suit." 
 The name of Sir Francis Beaufort was too deeply engraven on his heart to lie 
 ever ready at the tip of his tongue. 
 The meeting then separated. 
 
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