IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V ^ /. / / <^\f4i Cr, Cp- w.. :/. i/i m. 1.0 I.I 1.25 la 1125 lU 112.2 1.4 1.6 yw ^ /a '^A e. ^A ,r% % "^^ ' o ^/\ / / /A 7 Photographic Sciences Corporation €3 o % V ^> ^ ^ % ^^^ c^^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTEK NY. 14580 ( : 1' ) 872-4503 CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions Institut canadien de microreproductions historiques 1980 Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. 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Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent §tre filmds d des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clichd, il est film6 d partir de I'anglu sup6rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m6thode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 "I"". 'I "» I m H «l iil> W»«—1 H I»I M» I ' I ■! , lllji iM H iiilll I I , 1 H) _ MORTIMER SCO LITH OTTAWA. ONT DOMINION OF CANADA.-OUTLINE MAP St ( To illustrate papa .INE MAP SHEWING THE LARGER UNEXPLORED AREAS, 1890. illustrate paper by George M, Dawson.) .'; ■ ■d ON SOMR Tf on rea( to the Ottaw it to he my i of the unexj)' any suoh int( or notliing in ready to picti deep in Catl removed fron attention to t Fortuna tendency of o and open to e: small world i impelled by i dangers met ^ closely follow not long after It is, therefor from any otht government f purpose in ad( show cause, if of Canada as i What I 1 into remarks ( areas to whic manner, I beli It is ver) extent elsewht that explorati( tiling of the pi ON some; op the larger unexplored regions of CANADA. (Uy O. M, Diwson, D.S., Assoc, R.S.M., F.G.S., F.R.S.C) (Read 7th March, 1890.) Tf on reading the title of the paper which I had promised to contribute to the Ottawa Field Naturalista' Clul», anyone whould have Buppoaed it to be my intention to endeavour to doHcribe or forooaat the character of the unexplored areas itientioned, I must, in the first place disclaim any suoh intention, The very existence of large regions of which little or nothing is known, is of course stimulating to a fertile imagination, ready to picture to itself undiscovered " golden cities a thousand leagues deep in Cathay," but such unscientific use of the imagination is far removed from the position of sober seriousness, in which I ask your attention to the facts which I have to present. Fortunately, or unfortunately as we may happen to regard it, the tendency of our time is all in the direction of laying bare to inspection and open to exploitation, all parts, however remote, of this comparatively small world in which we live, and though the explorer hiniself may be impelled by a certain romanticism in overcoming difficulties or even dangers met with in the execution of his task, his steps are surely and closely followed by the ti-ader, the lumberer, or the agriculturist, and not long after these comes the builder of railways with his iron road. It is, therefore, rather from the point of view of practical utility than from any other, that an appeal must be made to the public or to the government for the further extension of explorations, and my main l)urpose in addressing you to-night is to make such an appeal, and to show cause, if possible, for the ex})loration of such considerable portions of Canada as still remain almost or altogether unmapped. What I have to say, in fact, on this subject, resolves itself chiefly into remarks on the map exhibited here, upon which the unexplored areas to which I am about to refer, are clearly depicted in such a manner, I believe, as almost to speak for themselves. It is very commonly supposed, even in Canada, but to a greater extent elsewhere, that all parts of the Dominion are now so well known tliat exploration, in the true sense of the term, may be considered as a tjliing of the past. This depends largely upon the fact that the mans of y i F loib- .i^z-7 tho country f^eiiprally oxiitnined are upon n vpry small srnlc, and tliat upon such maps no vast areas ypt remain upon wlilcli rivers, lakes, mountains or otlior features aro not depicted. If, liowevei-, wo take tlio trouble to enquire more closely into this, and consiilt perhaps one of tlio gooj^ra- phers whose name may appear on the face of the map which wo have examined, asking such awkward questions as may occur to us on the sources of information for this region or that, we may prohahlv hy him be referred to another and older ma]), and so on till we find in the end that the whole topograjdiical fahric of large parts of all those maps rests upon information of the vagtiest kind. Of most of the large areas marked upon the map here shown, this is absolutely ti'ue, and the interests of knowledge with respect to these would be ])ot*'r subserved if such areas were loft entirely blank, or, at least, if all the geograjthical features drawn upon them appeared in broken lines, in such a way as to show that none of them ai-e certain. In other regions, the main geographical outlines, such ai? the courses of the larger rivers, are indicated ai)proxiniateIy. witli such accuracy as may be possible from accounts or itineraries derived fioni travellers or from officers of the Hudson Bay Com)>any ; or from the desci-iptions or rough sketches of Indians or other ])ersons by whom the region has been traversed, but who have been unprovided with instruments of any kind and whose knowledge of the country has been incidentally obtained. There is, in the case of such partially explored regions, more excuse for the delineation of the main features on our maps, as these may be useful in imparting general information of a more or less inexact kind. We can scarcely, however, admit that such regions have been explored in any true sense of that term, while they are certainly unsurveyed, and very little confidence can be placed in maps of this kind as guides in travel. When, ten years ago, I struck across from Fort McLeod, on the west side of the Rockv Mountains, with the pur- pose of reaching Fort Dunvegan on the Peace, through a country densely forested and without trails or tracks of any kind, I had so much confidence in the existing maps of that region as to assume that Dunvegan was at least approximately correct in position on them. As often as possible I took observations for latitude, and each night worked out our poHltion l»y latitiulo hikI doparture, till at a certain point I was iiluMit to turn off to tlie north of tlio lino proviouHly fol- lowed with th(- confident anticipation of (indinj^ Dimvcgun. Just hare, very fortunately, \\t) fill in witii soino Indians, and tliou<(h our means of cointnunioatini; with thr-ni wen; very imperfect, wo gathered enough to lead UH to accept tlu! giiidanco of one of tiiem, who promised to load us to the fort, hut took an entirely dillerent din'ction from that T had proposed taking. Ho was right, but Dunvegan ]»roved to be, as shown on the mai)s, nearly forty miles west of its real position. Fortunately no very great importance attached to our reaching Dunvegan on a given day, but non(^ the less, this practical experience proved to me very conclusively the desirability of showing features in broken lines, or otherwise indicating their uncertainty when they have not been properly lixed. It must be confcssod, however, tliat most of the travellers ordi- narily to be fo\uul in these unexplorinl regions, being Indians or hunters, traders and others travelling under the guidance of Indians do not dejjfind on the latitudes cr longitudes of places, or on the respec- tive bearings of one place fiom another. The Indians follow routes with which tliey have been familiar since childhood, or when beyond the boundaries of their own particular region of country, go by land- marks, such as mountains, lak(;s and rivers which have been described to them by their neighbours. Their memory in this respect is remarkable, but it must V)e remembered that among their piincipal subjects of con- versation when sitting about the camp-lire are the distances in day's journeys from place to place, the routes which they have followed or have known others to follow, the difTiculties to be encountered on these, the j)oints at which food of different kinds may be obtained, and the features which strike them as Ijeing remarkable in the country traversed. Returning, however, from this digression, which began \vith the statement that accurate maps of such regions as are at present merely traversed by traders and Indians, are not imperative from the ])oint of view of such travellers, it may with confidence be affirmed that such maps and the explorations upon which they ar« based, are absolutely essential to civilized society, to show in the first place what the natural resources of these regions are and how they may be 19?09o II utilized, in tlio Hocontl by w!. .t liighwiiys such rugions may bo most euHily reached. A glance at the map will hIiow, that while many of the larger iinex|dored areas may be allirnied tu Vw. to thu north of thu limit of pro table agriculture, cousiderablo regions sitiutted to tin; south of this limit still await examination. Large districts, u^ain, in which no farmer will ever voluntarily .settle, may allbnl timber which the world will be glad to get when tin; wliito i)ino of our nearer forests shall become more nearly exhausted, while with resj)ect to laincral resources, it is j)robable that in the grand aggregate the value of these which exist in the unexplored regions will be found, area for area, to bo equal to those of the known regions, comparing each particular geological formation with its nearest re p re.se ntati' On the grounds alone, therefore, of geograjihical knowledge, and of the di-scovery and definition of the reserv(!S of the country in timber and minerals, the exploration of all these unknown or little-known regions may bo amply justified. Taking a line drawn north and south in the longiiude of the lied River valley, which is, as nearly as may be, the •entre of Canada from east to west, it may confidently be stated that by far the larger part of the country in which agricultural settlement is possible lies to the west, while the great bulk of the actual poi)ulation lies to the east of this line. Looking to this grand fundamental fact, I believe it may safely be affirmed that some members of this aiulience will live to see the day when these conditions with res]te3t to population will be boldly reversed and in which the greater number of our representatives in Parliament gathering here will come from this great western region. This disposition of the cultivable lanu depends partly upon the physical characteristics of the country, and in part on its climatic con- ditions. Beyond Winnipeg, and stretching therefrom to the west and north-west, is the great area of prairie, plain and plateau which, wider near the forty-ninth parallel than elsewhere on the continent, runs on in one form or other, though with diminishing width, to the Arctic Ocean. This is, generally speaking, an alluvial region, and one of fertile soils. Very fortunately, and as though by a beneficient pro- vision of nature, the climatic features favour the utilization of this belt. lU lUOSt ) larger limit of 1 of iliiH hicli no e world atH HliiiU jHourcos, which l)ti e([uul oologiciil lu alouo, ery and 3rals, the bo ami»ly tho Red ada from 31" part of the west, ist of this lay safely !e the day f reversed arliaiuent upon the matic con- west and lich, wider it, runs on the Arctic nd one of icient pro- )f this belt. Tho summer iHotlicnnalH, wliidi carry with them tho pnsHiliility of ripoiiiii^ crops, trcnil fai' to tlic nvrth. Let UH traf(>, fur uxaiiipio, and as a rough and ready indox of tho northorn limit ot practicaldo agrioidturo of any kind, that isotliormal line which rcpn^fcntsa moan tomporaturo of GO" Fanadioit in thomontli of July. TaHsing ti 'ou^^h tho Houtlioi-n part of N(!\vfoundlaiMl and touching tho island of A.ticoHti, this lino runs to tho north ond of Mistassini Liiko, and thonce crossos Hudson r»ay, striking tho west shore a short distaneo north of York Factory. Tlionco it runs west- ward, skirting tho north ond of lloindoor Lake, and then honding to the north -wost, crossos Ontat Slave Lako, and touches tht; sotithorn oxtroniity of (Jroat I»oar Lake. From this point it resumes a westward cour.so and crossoH tho Yukon Kiver a considoral)lo distance to tho north of tho confluonco of the Polly and Lowos, turning south again almost on the oast line of Alaska. Wo need not, however, further follow its course, as owing to peculiar climatic conditions on tho West Coast, it coasos there to bo any criterion as to the conditions of agri- culture. Tho character of much of t western interior country is such, that its exj>loration and survey is comparatively easy, and it will boolservod that hoiii tho larger unknown regions are to ho found only far ,o the northv ard, leaving in the more rugged and inhospitable eastern region vast islands of unexplored country in much moiv- southern latitudes. It may bo said, in fact, that comparatively little of the region capable, so far as climate goes, of producing wheat is now altogether unknown ; but it may be adilod, that increasing as tho world now is in popuhition, its people cannot much longer expect to find wheat- growing lands unoccupied in large blocks. Tho time is within measurable distance when lands with a fertile soil thoufjli'moro t)r less riirorou^ climate, in which only b.irley, oits, hem[), flax and other hardy crops can l)e matured, will be in demand, and we are far from having acquired oven a good general knowledge of these lands in Canada. For many of the unexplored regions marked upon this map, how- ever, we can in i-eason apj)eal only to their possible or i>resumable mineral wealth as an incentive to their exploration, and if some of them should prove wholly or in great part barren when such explora- tion shall have been carried out, it will not be without utility to acquire even tliis negative information, and write upon them in charactei'S as large as need be, " No thoroughfare." I will now ask your further attention for a few moments while I run over and make some remarks in detail on the various unexploi-ed areas as indicated on the map. It must first, however, be explained in what man the unexplored areas referred to have been outlined. All lines, such as those of rivers, chains of lakes or other travelled routes, along which reasonably satisfactory explorations have been made and of which fairly accurate route-maj^s are in existence, are given an approx- imate average width of about fifty miles, or twenty-five miles on each side of the explorer's or surveyoi i track. The known lines are thus arbitrarily assimied to be wide belts of explored country, and that ■which is referred to as unexplored, comprises merely the intervening tracts. By this mode of definition, the unexplored regions are reduced to minimum dimensions. Neither are any comparitively small tracts of country lying between explored routes included in my enumera- tion, in which the least area mentioned is one of 7,500 square miles ; nor are the Arctic islands, lying to the north of the continent, referred to. Because of the empirical mode in which the unexplored areas have thus been delineated, it has not been attempted to estimate with more than api)rt)xiniate acctiracy the number of square miles contained in each, my purpose being merely to render apparent the great dimensions of these areas. In enumerating these areas, I shall not refer to the vaiious e^plor- ations and lines of survey by which they are defined and separated one from anothei', as this would involve mention of nearly all the explorer^ who have traversed the northern part of the continent. 1 shall, how- ever, note such excursions as have been made into or across the regions which are characterized as unexplored. Beginning, then, in the extreme north-west of the Dominion, we _find these areas to be as follows : — 1. Area between the eastern boundary of Alaska, the Porcupine tRiver and the Arctic coast, 9,500 square miles, or somewhat smaller ithan Belgium. This area lies entirely within the Arctic circle. 'ft M 2. Area wet of tlie Lewes ami Yukon rivers ami extending to the boundary of Alaska, 32,000 square miles, or somewhat larger than Ireland. This country includes the head-waters of the White and pro- bably of the Tanani rivers, and, being comparatively low and sheltered from the sea by one of tli(! highest mountain ranges on the continent, the St, Ellas Alps, doubtless possesses some remarkable peculiarities of climate. 3. Area between the Lewes, Polly and Stikine rivers and to the east of the Coast Ranges, 27,000 srpiare miles, or nearly as large as Scotland. This has l)oen penetrated only by a few "prospectors'" from whom, and fi'om Indians, the courses of I'ivers shown on my maps pub- lished in connection with the Yukon Expedition Rei)oit are derived. It lies on the direct line of the metalliferous belt of the Cordillera, and its low lands are capable of producing hardy crops. 4. Area between the Pelly iind Mackenzie Rivers, 100,000 square miles, or about twice the siz(^ of Englai\d. This l)elongs partly to the Yukon basiTi and partly to that of the Mackenzie, and includes nearly 600 ndles in length of the main Rocky Mountain Range. Many years ago, Mr. A. K. Tsbister ])enetrate(l the northern part of this area for some distance on the line of the Peel River,* but, owing to the manner in which he had to travel, but little accuracy can be attributed to his sketch of that river. Abbe Petitot also made a short journey into its northern part from the Mackenzie River side, but with these excep- tions, no published information exists respecting it. 5. Area between Great Bear Lake and the Arctic coast, 50,000 square miles, or about equal to England in size. Nearly all to the north of the Arctic ciicle. 6. Area between Great Bear Lake, the Mackenzie and the western part of Great Slave Lake, 35,000 square ndles, or larger than Portugal. With rt- spect to this region and that last mentioned, it must Ije ex[)lained that I have felt some doubt whether they should be characterized as unexplored on. the basis previously explained as that which is g(!ner- ally applied. Between 1857 and 18G5, Mr. R. Macfarlane, of the •Some account cf Vkc\ River, North America, jy A. K. Isbister, Jouni. Roy. Geog. Sec, vol. XV., 1845, p. 332. 8 Hudson Bay Compuny, carried out au intelligent and valuable examina- tion of part of the region north of Great Bear Lake, some results of which have lately been published,* and in both of these areas, between 18G4 and 1871, the indefatiguable missionary, Abbe Petitot, made numerous journeys, of which he subsocjuontly publiohod an account.f As Petitots's instruments consisted merely of a comi)ass, and a watch which he rated by the meridian jjassage of the sun, it must be assumed that his mapping of the country does not possess any great accuracy. His work, however, considering the ditficulties under which it was performed, is deserving of all praise, and his several descriptions of the character of the country traversed are most valuable. It does not -vpijcar from his account of these regions that they are likely to prove of great utility to civilized man, except as fur preserves, or possi- bly from the minerals which they may contain. He writes : " Oe pays est compose de contrces silenciei.i-es coiiime le tombeau, des plaines vasles comme des departemeuts, des steppes glace.-: plus affreirx que ceux de la SiLeiie, de forcts clieiivos, rabougries comme on n'en voit que dans le voisinagc des glaciers du Nord." 7. Area between Stikine and Liard rivers to the norih and Skeena and Peace rivers to the south, 81,000 square miles, or more than twice as large as Newfoundland. This includes a ])ortion of tlie western Cordillera, aird, between the Liard and Peace river s,a large tract of the interior plateau region of the continent, parts of which, there is reason to believe, consist of good agricultural land. Its westerrr extremity was crossed in 18GG and 1867 by tli3 exploratory survey of th. Western Union or Collins' Telegraph Company, then engaged in an attempt to connect the North Anrerican and Eui'opean telegraph sys- tems through Asia. No details of thrs part of their exploration have, however, been published, and if we may judge from other parts of their line, since clu oked, the survey made was of too rough a character to possess much geographical value. 8. Area between Peace, Athabasca and Loon rivers, 7,500 square miles, or about half as large as Switzerland. f •Canadian Eccord of Science, Jan., 1890. tBulIetiu de la Societe de Geogvapliie, Tom x, 1875. 1 9. Area south-east of Athabuscii Lake, 35,000 rtijuaie miles. This again may lie compared in extent to Portugal. 10. Area east of the Coppermine River and west of Batlnirst Inlet, 7,r)00 square miles. This again may be compiired to half the area of Switzerland. 11. Area between the Arctic coast and Back's River, 31,000 square miles or about equal to Ireland. 12. Area surrounded by Back's Rivu-, Great 81a ve Jiako, Atha- Vjasca Lake, Hatchet and Reinde v lakes, Churchill River, and the west coast of Hudson Bay, 178,000 square miles. Much larger than Great Britain and Ireland, and somewhat larger than Sweden. The lakes and rivers shown in this great legion de])eud entirely on the result of the thiee journeys made by Hcarne in 17G9-1772.* Hearne really wandered through jiarts of this region in com[)any with Indians whom he was unable to control, his ultimate object (which he at length accompli.shed) being to leach the Coppermine River, in order to ascertain for the Hudson Bay Company, whether it was possible to utilize the native copper found there. Not even roughly approximate accuracy can be assigned to his geographical work. Referring to the position of the mouth of the Coppermine, he writes: — "The latitude may be depended upon to within 20 miles at the utmost." In reality it afterwards proved to be 200 miles too far north. This country includes the great "barren grounds" of the continent, and is the prin- cipal winter resort of the musk ox as well as of great herds of caribou. Hearne's general characterization of it is not very encouraging, Init certainly we shall know more about it. He writes: — "The land throughout the whole track of country is scarcely anything but one solid mass of rocks and stones, and in most parts very hilly, particularly to the westward, among the woods." The extreme north-eastern extremity of this region was also crossed by Lieut. Schwatka in the course of his remarkable journey to King-William Land, but hia geographical results possess little value, f *A .Tourney from Priuce of W'lles Fort, in Hudson Bay, to the Northern Ocean, 1796. tSchwatka's Search by H. W. Gilder, mmmm 10 13. Aroii bctweou Sovorn and Attiiwiipishkiic rivurs and the coast of Hudson Day, 22,000 stjuaru miles, or largei- than Nova Scotia. Several lakes and rivers art! shown upon the ina))s in this rc^i^ion in practically identical foini since Arrowsniith's niiip of 1850, but I have been unable to ascertain the origin of the information. 14. Ai'oa between Trout Luke, Lac Seul and the xVll.'any Kiver, 15,000 srjuaro nn'e-, or al out half the sizj of Scotland. 15. Area to the south and east of James Bay, 35,000 square miles, which also may ho compared to the area n abl(> to find is contained in a bjok written by J. M'Lean.f and in a brief account of a journey by liev. E. J. Peck. j. Mr. M' Lean made several journeys and established trading ]iosts between LTnguva and Hamilton Inlet in the vears 1838-181:1, while Mr. Peck * Explorations in Lalirador, 1863, Aniuiiil Report Geol. Surv. Can., 1887-88, Part .1. I'lw. lioyal Gcog. Soc, 1888. Ott. iSTat. Vol. IV. tNotes of a twonty-five years' service in the Hudson's Bay Territory. Loudon, 1849. +Cliurch Missionary lutelligeuccr, Jiuie 1886. Proe. Hoy. Geog. Sec, 1S87, p. 192. 1 11 crossed from Little Wliale River, on Hudson Bsry, to Ungava in 1884. Sometliinij may he j^atlierod as to th(! general nature of the country along certain lines, from the accounts given by these gentlemen, but there is little of a really satisfactory character, while neither has made any attempt to fix positions or delincati' the features of the region on the map. In all probability this entire region consists of a rocky jOateau or hilly tract of rounded ai'chiean i-ocks, highest on the north-east side and to the south, and sloping giadually dovvn to low land towards Ungava Bay. It is known to be moi'o or less wooiled, and in some places with timber of fair growth, but if it shoidd be ))Ossessed of any real value, this may probably lie in its nietallift'rous deposits. In this tract of country particularly there is reason to hope that ores like those of Tilt Cove, in Newfoundland, or those of Sudl)ury, in Ontario, may occur. To sum up briefly, in conclusion, what has been said as to the larger unexplox'ed areas of Canada, it may be stated that while the entire ar(;a of the Dominion is computed at 3,470,257 stjuare miles about 954,000 square miles of the continent, alone, exclusive of the inhospitable detached Arctic portions, is for all ])ractical pur- po.ses entirely unknown. In this estimate the area of the unexplored country is reduced to a minimiuu by the mode of definition employed. Probably we shoidd be much nearer the mark in assuming it as about one million square miles, or between one-third aiul out; fourth of the whole. Till this great aggregate of unknown territory shall have been subjected to examination, or at least till it has been broken up and traversed in many directions by exploratory and survey lines, we must all feel that it stands as a cei'tain re[iroac'h to our want of enterprise and of a justifiable curiosity. In oulin-, however, to properly ascertain and make known the natural resources of the great tracts lying beyond the borders of civilization, sucli explorations and surveys as are under- taken must be of a truly scitsntidc character. Tlie explorer or surveyor must possess some knowledge of gcjology and botany, as well as such scientific training as mav enable him to make intelligent and accurate observations of any natural features or })henomena with which he may come in contact. He must not consider that his duty con- sists merely in the perfunctory measuring of lines and the de- 12 linoation of rivers, lakes im ijtt; 02 1 i tf^^?\^= u >■