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WILLIAM H. SEWARD'S 
 
 TRAVELS AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 EDITED BY 
 
 OLIVE RISLEY SEWARD. 
 
 "A mighty maze, but not without a plan." 
 
 Pope. 
 
 WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 51579 
 
 NEW TOEK: 
 D. APPLETON AND COMPANY, 
 
 549 & 551 BROADWAY. 
 18V3. 
 
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Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1873, by William H. Seward, Jr., Executor, 
 and Olive Rislet Seward, Executrix, of the last Will and Testament of William 
 H. Sbwabd, decciised, in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 
 
 *m 
 
COJN^TETq^TS. 
 
 PART I. 
 
 zecutor, 
 
 'iLLiAU 
 
 ton. 
 
 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 Chap. 
 
 I. AuDURN TO San Francisco: Mr. Seward'a Companions. — His Farewell to his 
 Neighbors. — Western New York. — Niagara. — Canada and its Destiny. — Influ- 
 ence of Immigration. — Africo- Americans. — Detroit. — Chicago. — President Grant 
 — Mississippi and Missouri Rivers. — Cedar Rapids. — Omaha. — New Classification 
 of States. — Council Bluffs. — Bridges over Navigable Rivers. — Settlement of 
 Western States. — Cheyenne. — The Rocky Mjuntains. — Influence of Mountain 
 States. — Sherman. — Separation. — Mountain >J omenclature. — Weber Canon. — 
 Salt Lake City. — 'ilie Mormons, their Doctrines, Secular Priesthood. — Brigham 
 Young's Sermon. — His Family. — Polygamy. — The Irrepressible Conflict in 
 Utah. — The Shoshones. — Destiny of the Indians. — Sierra Nevada. — Reno. — 
 Railroads. — Result of Abolition of Slavery. — Sacramento. — Arrival at San Fran- 
 cisco. — Civilization of California. — Chinese Immigration, .... 3 
 
 II, From San Francisco to Japan : The Vessels of the Pacific Mail Line. — Our Fel- 
 
 low-Passengers. — "The Great Company of the Preachers." — The Chinese Pas. 
 sengers. — The Great Event of the Voyage. — The Moods of the Sea. — A Still 
 Greater Event. — The Loss of a Day. — The Oyascutus. — The Beginning of the 
 End. — The Coast of Japan. — The Ocean-Fisheries, 31 
 
 PART II. 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 I. Yokohama and i.s Vicinity : The Bay of Yokohama. — Natives and Foreigners. 
 — Native Costunes. — Japanese Barbers. — The Tokaido. — Japanese Cemeteries, 
 Gardens, and Temples. — Monks and '.lunasteries. — Kamakura. — The Great 
 Statu - of Buddha.— The Daibutz, 39 
 
 IL Visit to Ykddo. — Interview avith the Mikado: Interview with the Japanese 
 Prime-Minister. — Tremendous Storm. — Some Points of History. — The Mikado 
 and the Tycoon. — Japanese Foreign Office. — Minister Sawa. — The Question of 
 Saghalien. — Tlie Toii.bs of the Tycoons. — A Speck of War. — The Delmonico 
 of Yeddo. — Sketcbc of Ycddo. — The Interview with the Mikado, . . 53 
 
 III. From Yeddo to Shanghai : Iliogo. — The Place of Massacre. — A Japanese Steamer. 
 
 —The Gulf of Osaka,— A Harem on a Picnic.— The City of Osaka.— The Ty- 
 coon's Castle. — Japanese Troops. — Nagasaki. — Beautiful Scenery. — Christians 
 of Nagasaki. — Japanese Character. — Departure ibr China. — Concluding Re- 
 flections on Japan, 86 
 
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IV 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 ! i 
 
 I 
 
 CnAP. 
 
 IV. The Coast of China: Wosung. — U. S. Ship Colorado. — Slianf;lmi. — European 
 " Conoc.-^sions." — A Mandiuiii Procession.—Chi-Tujt'U nnd Suii-Taji'ii. — Kuro- 
 poan and Cliino.se Civilization. — Forcijin rri\ju(rn'os against tlio Cliineso. — The 
 Shan Tung. — The Yellow Sea. — The News from Franee. — Chee-l'oo, the New- 
 port of Chnia. — A Rough Voyage, 105 
 
 V. Up thk Pki-iio Uiveii : Mouth of the Pei-ho. — Chinese Forts. — American Guns'. — 
 The Most Crooked and Mean of Rivers. — Chinese Dog.s. — A Misunderstanding. 
 — Captain Wang. — Our Flotilla. — The City of Tien-Tsin. — Aspect of the Conn- 
 try.— Our IJoat-Life. — Absence of Animals, — A Messenger from Peking. — A 
 
 Chinese Trailer.— Tung-Chow, 123 
 
 VI. Arrival at Pekiso : Passing through Tung-Chow. — Good Behavior of the People. 
 — The Road to Peking. — A Dangerous Highway. — Daniel Webster and John 
 Adams. — A Review of Our Party. — A (irotcsque Procession. — The Eastern Gate 
 of Peking. — The Separation of the Party. — Anxiety for Mr. Seward. — lu Woful 
 Plight. — An Explanation. — Arrival at the U. S. Legation, . . . 138 
 VII. Residence in Peking: Aspect of Peking. — The Walk on the Wall. — The Foreign 
 Population of Peking. — Two American Chinese. — Native Wares. — The F'oreign 
 Ministers. — The Russian Minister. — The British Legation. — Influence of the 
 United States.— The Hall of Science. — Mr. Seward's Audience with the Imperial 
 Cabinet. — A Ladies' Day. — Chinese Ladies. — A Chinese Mansion, . 145 
 VIII. Residence in Peking (Continued): The Decay of China. — The Temple of Heaven. 
 — The Temple of Agriculture, — The Temple of Buddha. — The Chinese Bonzes. 
 — The Temple of Confucius. — The Religion of China. — A Pleasant Reunion. — 
 The Birds of Peking. — An Official Dilemma. — Interview with Wau-Siang. — In- 
 fluence of Burlingame, 168 
 
 IX. Visit to the Great Wall : Preparations for the Trip. — Our Vehicles. — The 
 Summer Palace. — Pagodas. — First Night under a Chinese Roof. — A Chinese 
 Tavern. — Approach to the Great Wall. — The Mongolians. — The Cost of the 
 W'all. — Inquisitive Chinese. — The Second Wall. — The Ming Tombs. — A Mis- 
 guided Mule, 188 
 
 X. Last Days in Peking : Cham-Ping-Chow. — A Chinese Inn. — The Roman Catho- 
 lies in China. — The Cathedral.— The Tien-Tsin Massacre. — Christian Policy. — 
 Interview with Robert Hart. — A Letter from Sun-Tajen and Chi-Tajen. — Letter 
 from Prince Kung. — Interview with the Prince. — The Prince's Present. — De- 
 parture from Peking, 211 
 
 XI. The Return to Shanghai: Once more on he Pei-ho. — The Ladies at Tien-Tsin. 
 — The Shan Tung. — Pigeon English. — Tempestuous W'eather. — Visit to the 
 Flag-ship Colorado. — Departure of Mr. and Mrs. Randall. — On board the Plym- 
 outh Rock, 222 
 
 XII. Up the Yang-t -e-Kiang : The Mississippi of China. — 'Jhing-Kiang. — Large Freights. 
 — Nanking. — The Porcelain Tower. — A Specimen Brick. — Abundance of Game. 
 — Scenery on the River. — Ku-Kiang. — Conversation with Mr. Drew. — Policy of 
 the United States. — ITan-Kow. — Ascent of the Promontory. — Magnificent View. 
 — Cheerful Aspect of Han-Kow. — Excursion to W^oo-Chang. — A Disagreeable 
 
 Adventure, 227 
 
 Xin. Return to Shanghai : Departure from Han-Kow. — Chinese Military Art. — A 
 Marvellous Echo, — The Imperial Canal. — Approach to Chin-Kiang. — The 
 United States Steamer Alaska. — Running down a Junk. — An Apology from 
 the Viceroy. — The Comprador. — Chinese Ladies. — Embark on an English 
 Steamer, 241 
 
 ruAP, 
 
 XIV, FnoM Sua: 
 men, — '1 
 Acciuain 
 XV, From Hon 
 — C.mto 
 America 
 — Maiiu 
 
 XVL Canton ( 
 School-I 
 The Clii 
 cution.- 
 
 XVII. At Hong-] 
 I'lshcric 
 Dinner i 
 I]astorn 
 XVIII. A Gi.ANri: 
 F'ellow-I 
 French . 
 bodia. 
 
 THE EAST. 
 
 L The Chin. 
 Home.— 
 Boston.- 
 — A Dul 
 and Sun 
 II. TiiK Capit 
 England 
 —The C 
 —The ^ 
 zorg, . 
 
 III. Excursion 
 
 Flowers, 
 is goveri 
 —The r 
 
 IV. Mr. Sewai 
 
 The Wn 
 —A Clr 
 ban.— P 
 The Jap 
 
 V. At Batavi 
 fast.— A 
 Dutch C 
 
 VI. From Bat 
 Singapoi 
 —Bay 
 Gallc— 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 ,' 
 
 ) 
 
 
 CUAV. 
 
 XIV. 
 
 XV. 
 
 XVI. 
 
 XVII. 
 
 XVIII. 
 
 FiiOM SnANT.iiAi TO IIoso-KoNfi : Had AVcatlier. — Cold Wcitlior. — V.-Jiicty of Sca- 
 iiu'ii. — The Sliip's Accoiiiinotliitionrt, — IIoiiu-Koii;^. — Itciuitil'iil Seeiicry. — Old 
 Ac(|iiaiiitiint'cs roiiewcd. — Native iiiul l"'oroii.;ii Populiition, . . . 249 
 
 FiiOM HoNd-KoNfi TO Canton; The Chim'se C<)ustinf;;-T'iii(U'. — Chiiio^o Snmir^lcvs. 
 — Cantor. Uivir-IiaiiUs. — Aspect of Canton. — The liiitish Coneessioii. — The 
 Anieriean Ilonj^s. — The Consul and the Tou-tai. — The Diet of the Cantonese. 
 — Maniifaet urea of Canton. — The Teini)les of Canton, . . . '253 
 
 Canton {('onthiucd): A Chinese Villa. — The Hall of Ancestors. — A Chinese 
 Seliool-Hoora. — Another Villa. — An Opium-Den. — Kxtcnt of Opiuin-Sniokini^. — 
 The Chinese Chronometer. — Tluf Street of Malefaetors. — The Place of Kxo- 
 eution.— A City of the Dead.— Canton at Niglit, .... 206 
 
 At IloNO-KoNO AGAIN : Chinese Emi^'ration to the United States. — The Canton 
 fisheries. — American Houses in China. — A Conil)ination of (lamlilers. — A 
 Dinner at the United States Consulate. — Mr. Seward's Speech. — Oriental and 
 Eastern Civili/ation. — Policy of China. — Prospects of China, . . 275 
 
 A Cii.ANCK AT Cochin China: The Steamer Provence. — Island of Ilainati. — Our 
 Fellow-Passen^^crs. — The Mouth of the Saij^on River. — Tiie City of S lij^on. — 
 French Aptitude for Coloniz.ilion. — French Photographs. — The Queen of Cnin- 
 
 bodia, 
 
 284 
 
 PART III. 
 
 I'^nglish 
 
 TIIE EASTERy ARCHIPELAGO, STRAITS OF MALACCA, AND 
 
 CEVLOX. 
 
 :M I. The China Sea, Sinoapore, and the Straits of Sunda ; Our Distance from 
 
 Home. — Calm Seas and Temperate Hreezes. — Singapore. — A Dispatch from 
 Boston. — The People of Singapore. — Their Habitations. — Life in the Tropics. 
 — A Dutch Steamer. — Our Crew. — A Question of Races. — Rather Hot. — Hanca 
 
 and Sumatra. — The Straits of Sunda, 295 
 
 II. Thk Capital of Java: The City of Hatavia. — The Hotel dcs Indos. — A New- 
 England Sabbatii. — Malay Servants. — The King's Plain. — Population of Java. 
 — The Queen of the East. — Departure for Buitenzorg. — Manner of Travelling. 
 
 — The Vice-Regal Residence. — The Climate of Java. — The Baths of Buiten- 
 zorg, ,104 
 
 III. Excursion into thk Interior : A Balking IIor.se. — Cultivation of Rice. — Tropical 
 Flowers. — Surabaya. — The Regent Prawiro. — Dutch Colonization. — How Java 
 is governed. — Bandong. — The Regent and the Interpreter. — A Gouty Jlonarch. 
 — The Regent's Income. — How he spends it, 318 
 
 IV. Mr. Sewari> at Bandong : Excursion to the Cascade. — A Perilous Road. — 
 The Water-Fall. — An Evcnng at the Palace. — The Bayaderes. — Two Dwarfs. 
 — A Chorus of Peasants. — The Little Princesses. — An Excursion to Tankoe- 
 ban. — Peruvian Bark. — The Top of the Volcano. — An Enchanting Scene. — 
 The Japanese Prince, 328 
 
 V. At Batavia aoain. — The Malays: Farewell to Bandong. — A Tropical Break- 
 fast. — A Breakfast in the Rotanieal Crardcns. — A Princely Native Artist. — 
 Dutch Colonization. — Character of the Malay Race. — Chinese Immigration, 336 
 
 VI. From Batavia to Madras ; An Uncomfortable Steamer. — An Accident. — At 
 Singapore. — Ihitish Hospitality. — The Port of Penang. — A Loyal Englishman. 
 — Hay of Bengal. — Half-Way Round the World. — Arrival at Ceylon. — Point de 
 Galle. — A Short Visit to the Shore. — A Hindoo Crew. — Off Pondichcrrv, 311 
 
 c 
 
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Ti' 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 PART IV. 
 liRITISIl INDIA. 
 
 Chap. 
 
 I. MAnnAS : Madras from tlic Sea.— Governor Napier. — The Government House. — 
 A Ili'uloo Giiln' Siliool. — Hishop Ilclwr. — Hiiti.sh Dominion in India. — Kear- 
 Admiral Cockburn. — Maoliincry of (Jovcrnnient. — A Meeting of tlio K.xoeutive 
 Council. — Lord Cornwalli.-*. — Tlie Legislative Council. — Hindoo Mu.sic, . 'Ao'i 
 II. Mahius {Covdnucl): An Excursion to Arcot. — Railroads in Ilindostnn. — Ap- 
 pearance of the Country. — The Homage of Flowers. — Cauvcrypak. — The Na- 
 tive System of Cultivation. — Visit to a liramin. — Schools. — A Car of Jugger- 
 naut. — The Dutch Reformed Mission. — Hack to Madras. — The Portuguese 
 Settlement. — (iindy Park. — A Diamond Merchant. — Lord and Lady Nipicr. — 
 The Normal School, 305 
 
 III. From Mai)r.\s to Calcutta : The Surf at ^ladras. — On the Ray of Rcngal. — 
 
 The Lion-Whelps. — The Hoogly. — The A'iceroy's Invitation. — Earl and Count- 
 ess Mayo. — Glimpses of Calcutta. — The Raboo. — The Baboo's House and 
 Harem. — The Government House, 377 
 
 IV. Calcutta {Continued): The Maharajah of Puttcc.ala. — Oriental Magnificence. — 
 
 Kali Ghaut. — The Temple. — Hindoo Idols. — KaH. — Siva. — A Mohammedan 
 Mosque. — The Reading of the Budget. — Indian Finances. — The King of Gudc. 
 
 —The Prince of Oudo, 388 
 
 V. Barrackpore and Serampore : Barrackpore Park and its Beauties. — Magnifi- 
 cent Trees. — The Menagerie. — The Lion-Whelps. — Seramporc. — Its Mission- 
 aries and Mission-Schools. — Return from Barrackpore. — Fort William. — The 
 Woman's Union Missionary Society and its Schools, .... 398 
 
 VI. From Calcutta to Benares : Courtesy of the East India Railway Company. — 
 Unattractive Scenery. — The Scenery improves. — Aspect of the Country and 
 the People. — A Stop at Patna. — A Tiger Hunter. — The Cultivation of the 
 Poppy. — The Maharajah of Benares. — A Night on the Ganges. — A Brilliant 
 Display. — Glory Hallelujah. — A Compliment to Mr. Seward, . . 102 
 VII. Benares : The Sacred City of the Hindoos. — The Cradle of Buddhism. — Sornath. 
 — Remarkable Towers. — The Holy River. — The Ghauts. — Singular Architecture. 
 — The Mosques and their Minarets. — A Picturesque Scene on the River-Bank. 
 — S /a and Doorga. — Manufacture of Idols. — Magnificence of Benares, . 408 
 VIII. Allahabad, Lucknow, and Agra : Allahabad, the City of God. — Cawnpore. — 
 Lucknow, the Capital of Oude. — Extent of the Country. — Arrival at Agra. — A 
 Marvellous Monument of Arms, Arts, and Empire. — Akbar the Great. — His 
 Vast Architectural Works. — The Pearl Mosque. — Futtehpore Sikra. — Its Great 
 Wall.— The Tomb of Sheik Selim Chishti.— The Ranch Mahal— Akbar's Tomb. 
 — His Wealth. — His Horses and his Elephants. — Weighing his Presents, 418 
 
 IX. Secundra and the Taj-Mahal : The Tomb of Akbar. — Derivation of the Name 
 of Secundra. — The Taj-Mahal, the Tomb of the Banoo Begum. — Description 
 of the Taj.— The Tomb of King Cotton.— The Inferiority of Indian Cotton. — 
 
 Mode of packing it, 433 
 
 X. Delhi, the Mogul Capital : A Vivid Contrast to Agra. — Ludlow Castle.— Brief 
 Sketch of Hindoo ni.rtory. — The Persians. — The Greeks. — The Arabs.— Sultan 
 Mahmoud. — The Mongols or Moguls. — Foundation of Delhi. — Successive 
 Changes of Site. — The Kootub Minar. — A Singular Iron Shaft. — The Mogul 
 Tombs.— The Tomb of Jchanara.— The Jumna Musjid. — The Imperial Palace. 
 — Farewell to Delhi 441 
 
 
 Chap. 
 
 
 
 XL 
 
 Umballa a 
 Mutiny.- 
 Puttecala 
 — Entran 
 
 1 
 
 XH. 
 
 Puttkeala 
 The Pris 
 
 r 
 
 r 
 
 glcrs.— T 
 The Youi 
 rajah's C( 
 
 'i 
 
 XIIL 
 
 A (!lance 
 of the J I 
 luminatio 
 the Ilinui 
 
 < 
 
 XIV. 
 
 ALLAIIABAn 
 
 of India.- 
 bulpoor.— 
 
 i^ 
 
 
 and Beau 
 
 
 XV. 
 
 Bombay : T 
 
 
 
 bay. — A 
 
 
 
 Afglian, a 
 
 
 
 and the '^ 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 and Parse 
 
 i 
 i 
 
 
 Excursion 
 
 '^ 
 
 XVL 
 
 An Excursi 
 
 1 
 
 
 dicament. 
 History 
 Character 
 ReminiscL 
 
 
 XVII. 
 
 Last Days 
 ful Ackn( 
 Indies of 
 ble.— The 
 
 ;^ 
 
 
 — Departi 
 
 j 
 
 XVIIL 
 
 From Bombj 
 ard's Ren 
 doo Mind 
 of Socotr 
 A New St 
 
 
 I. 
 
 The Red S 
 The Port 
 the Red 
 Track of 
 Inaugura 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Vll 
 
 I'lUP. 
 
 XI. UwnAi.LA AND ruTTEKALA : McpHit, tlio Pccnc of tlio Oiitbrcnk of the fircnt 
 Mutiny. — Hindoo rilgrims. — Fii;*t Vimv of the Himaliiyns. — Invitationa to 
 ruttecalu. — .lourni'y thither. — The (Mty of Puttecahi. — ('oudu's or KlcphiinLs ? 
 — Entrance into I'utteeala. — A Magnificent Procession. — Our I'alace, . 4.'')2 
 XII. rvTrv.v.Ai.\(C(>nliinic(l): Oriental Displays an>l Diversions. — The Mena};;erie. — 
 The I'risons. — The Heir-Apparent. — An Klephant-Fight. — .testers and Jug- 
 glers. — The Royal Palace. — Magnifieenee ol" the Maharajah. — The Durhar. — 
 The Young Prince. — Superb Presents. — A Magnificent Salon. — The Maha- 
 rajah's Conversation with Mr. Seward. — An Kxhibition of Fireworks, . 459 
 
 XIII. A (!lance at tiik Himalayas: Departure from Puttecala. — Along the Banks 
 
 of the Junina. — I'roteetion from the Sun. — Reception at Pindarrie. — An Il- 
 lumination. — Kalka and Ku^sowlee. — Tiie Ibitish Commissioner. — A View of 
 the Himalayas. — An Irish Home, 471 
 
 XIV. Allaii.viia» and JunncLPOOii: An Interesting Debate. — Earl Mayo, the Viceroy 
 
 of India. — His Murder. — Tfie Vindhya Mountains. — Industrial Activity of Jub- 
 bulpoor. — An Elephant-Ride. — A Night Voyage on the Nerbudda. — Romantic 
 and Beautiful Scenery. — Hindoo Tenderness for Animals, . . . 477 
 XV. Bombay : The Ghaut Mountains. — A Cosmopolitan City. — The Natives of Bom- 
 bay. — A Mixed Population. — Chinese, Siamese, Javanese, Cingalese, Sikh, 
 Afghan, and Cashmerian. — The Races of the South and the North, of the East 
 and the West. — Parsee Customs. — Parsee Religion. — Hindoo, Mohammedan, 
 and Parsee Disposal of the Dead. — Admiral Coekburn. — The Great Heat. — An 
 
 Excursion to Elcphanta, 482 
 
 XVI. An Excursion to Goa : A Voyage on the Coast of Malabar. — A Perilous Pre- 
 dicament. — Dubious Navigation. — Situation of Goa. — OITieial Courtesies. — 
 History of Goa. — The Old City. — St. Francis Xavier. — Miraculous Cures,— 
 Character of Xavier. — Public Institutions. — The Governor's Villa. — Historical 
 Reminiscences. — A Goa Poet. — A Cordial Farewell, .... 492 
 XVII. Last Days in Bombay : The Byculla Club,— Mr. Seward's Speech. — His Grate- 
 ful Acknowledgments to his Entertainers. — The Indies of the East and the 
 Indies of the West. — Growing Civilization of the East. — A Progress irresisti- 
 ble. — The New Concord. — Policy of the Anglo-Saxon Race. — Miss Wessner. 
 
 — Departure from Bombay, 501 
 
 XVIII. From Bombay to Aden : Once more at Sea. — The Steamer Deccan. — Mr. Sew- 
 ard's Remarks on India. — Natural Religion. — The Characteristics of the Hin- 
 doo Mind, — England's Hold on India. — The Regeneration of India. — The Island 
 of Soeotra. — Arrival at Aden. — An Extinct Volcano. — Wise Old England ! — 
 A New Stage of the Voyage. — Red-Haired Negroes, .... 506 
 
 PART V. 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 I. The Red Sea and Sue;! Canal : The Gate of Tears,— The Rock of Perim.— 
 The Port of Mecca. — Imaginary Terrors, — Pleasant Weather. — The Coasts of 
 the Red Sea. — The Division of the Races. — A Refreshing Atmosphere, — Tho 
 Track of the Israelites, — Suez. — The Ancient Canal. — The New Canal. — Its 
 Inauguration. — Its Prospects, . . . - . , . . 519 
 
 c 
 
 O 
 > 1 
 
 f9 
 
 I) 
 
 
 \ 
 
 
VIU 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CnAP. 
 II. 
 
 Ill, 
 
 IV. 
 
 VI. 
 
 VII. 
 
 vin. 
 
 IX. 
 
 ,'-* 
 
 From SrEZ to Cairo : The Bedouin Arabs. — A AVady.— Go<-hcn. — Nubian Troop!!. 
 — A Hiilendid Sunset.— Tlie Pulaco of Repose. — The Khedive. — Tlic Popula- 
 tion of Egypt. — The Khedive's Improvements. — A Visit to the Harem. — The 
 Female Slaves. — Egypt and Utah, 028 
 
 Cairo and the Pyramids • The Road to tlie Pyramids. — The Stylo of the Vice- 
 roy. — Interior of the Great Pyramid. — The Sphinx. — Mariette Bey. — Use of 
 the Pyramids. — Rapacious Arabs. — The Phcenix. — The Site of On. — Ruins of 
 Heliopolis. — The Tree of the Holy Family. — Mohammed Tauphik. — The Amer- 
 icans in Egypt. — The Citadel of Cairo. — A Museum of Antiquities. — Modern 
 Cairo. — The Copts. — The Niiometer. — The Tombs of the Caliphs. — The Ceme- 
 teries of Cairo. — The Mosques. — The Dancing Dervishes. — Ghezireh. — Polyga- 
 my. — The Cairo of To-day, 539 
 
 Up the Nile : Embarkation at Ghizeh. — The Pyramids of Saccara. — The Two 
 Deserts. — Siout. — The American Vice-Consul. — Sultan Pacha. — Character of 
 the Nile. — Slave-Boats. — Arab Villagers. — The Birds of the Nile. — The Popu- 
 lation on th Banks. — Domestic Animals. — Personal Arrangements. — A Tip- 
 pling Monkey, 5.59 
 
 From Abtdos to Thebes : The Ruins of Abydos. — The Sheik of Bellianeh. — A 
 Misunder^tandii-g. — A Dinner in the Ruins. — A Night in the Temple.— Explor- 
 ing the Ruins.- By whom were they built? — Germs of Religious Ideas. — The 
 Temple of Dendera. — Mr, Seward's Birthday, 568 
 
 Thebes a\d its Ruins : What Thebes is now. — A Grand Reception, — A Fed- 
 eral Salute. — Tlie Scenery of the Nile. — The Temple of Luxor. — The Houses 
 of the Consuls. — History of Luxor, — Karnak. — The Hall of the Gods. — King 
 Shishak. — Sphinx Avenues. — Wc dine with the Vicc-Consul. — The Colossi. — 
 The Ancient Tombs,— The Tombs of the Kings. — Animal Worship. — T'le Ra- 
 meseum. — Grandeur of Thebes, 578 
 
 Esneii, Edfou, A,«souan, and Piiil^ : The Coptic Convents. — Youssef and his 
 Donkey. — Our Steamer aground. — The Ruins of Fsneh. — The Temple of Edfou. 
 — Assouan. — Its Surprising Activity. — Its African Population. — The Ancient 
 Quarries. — Phila; and the Cataracts of the Nile. — A Monument of the First 
 French Republic, 598 
 
 Last Days in Egypt: The Vice-Consul's Ilarem. — Kennch and its Pottery. — 
 The Sugar of Egypt. — Memphis. — Its Ruins. — The Downfall of Idolaters. — 
 Again at Cairo. — Conversation with a Pacha. — Alexandria. — Aspect of the 
 City. — Interview with the Khedive. — Sir Henry Bulwer. — Pompey's Pillar. — 
 The Khedive's Yacht. — Concluding Reflections on Egypt, . . . CIO 
 
 jERUiiALEsi: A Levantine Coasting-Steamer, — The Green Fields of Sharon. — Jaffa. 
 — i{amleh. — Lydda. — Rural Population. — First View of Jerusalem. — Mr. Sew- 
 ard's Reception. — The Sultan's Firman. — Church of the Holy Sepulchre. — 
 Religious Intolerance. — .Mount Calvary. — The Via Dolorosa. — The Mosque of 
 Omar.— The Mos(iuc El-Aksa, 025 
 
 Jeupsalem and its Neiciiboriiood : Bethlehem. — The Grave of Rachel. — The 
 City of Jerusalem. — The Mount of Olives. — The Tomb of Zaehariah. — The 
 Tomb of Ab.sftloni. — An American Jew. — Bethanj'. — Pilate's Palace. — The 
 Greek Church in Palestine. — The Jews of Jerusiilom. — Their Wailing-Place, — 
 The Jcwi.sh .^iibbath, — Attendance "^ the Synasrogue, — Bishop Gobat, — De- 
 [>artiire Irom Jerusalem.— Juflk and Beirut, 045 
 
COXTEXTS. 
 
 IX 
 
 Chap. 
 Xi. 
 
 From Palestine to Greece : Impressions of Palestine. — TIio Egyptian Race. — 
 Egyptian Civilization. — Plmniicia and Palestine. — Tlio Four Religions. — What 
 we owe to the Jews. — Present State of Palestine. — The Island of Cyprus. — 
 The Cesnola Collection. — Smyrna. — An Excursion to Ephesus. — The Seven 
 Sleepers. — Mr. Wood's Researches. — Tln^ Temple of Diana. — The Isles of 
 Greece. — Tinos, — The City of Syra. — A illumiuatiou, . . , GD8 
 
 PART VI. 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 I. Athens asd Constantinople: Athens. — The Pira?us. — The Ilymcttus. — The Ilys- 
 sus. — Mr. Tuckerman. — Queen Olga. — Grecian Ruins compared with those of 
 Egypt and Ilindostan. — Modern Greece, the Mexico of Europe. — The Sea of 
 Marmora. — Taking Constantinople by Surprise. — A Coutrc-tcmps. — All's Well 
 that I']nds W^ll. — The Sultan Abdul-Aziz. — A Busy Day. — Excursions. — 
 Charms of Constantinople. — The Old Seraglio. — Fourth of July. — Robert Col- 
 lege. — The Bos^ jrus. — Turkish Women. — The New Palace. — Untimely Visit. 
 — Kiamil Pacha. — Audience with the Sultan. — Departure from Constanti- 
 nople, 071) 
 
 II. HcNGARV AND AUSTRIA; On the Danube. — Varna. — Rustchuk. — Wallachia. — 
 German Travellers. — What shall wo say of Turkey ? — Redections on the Future 
 of the Turks. — Orsova. — The Iron Gate. — Hungarian Loyalty. — Buda-Pesth. 
 —Contrast of European and Asiatic Civilization. — The People of Pesth. — The 
 Bridge of Buda. — The Buildings of Biida. — The History of Hungary. — The 
 Danube. — Vienna. — John Jay. — Count Von Bcust. — Politics of Austria, 708 
 
 III. Italy: Venice. — American Knights Templars. — Florence. — Attractiveness of the 
 
 City. — Rome. — The Coliseum. — Cardinal Antonelli and the Pope. — Interview 
 with the Pope. — Tiie Italian Minister of Foreign AfTiiirs. — The Schools of Art. 
 — Naples. — Vesuvius, — Early Civilization on the Mediterranean Coast. — Na- 
 ples, the Newport of the Roman Empire. — Genoa. — Susa, — Prospects of 
 Italy, 724 
 
 IV. Switzeulano ANr France ; Geneva. — The Alps. — The Tunnel of Mont Cenis.— 
 
 Passports. — American Fondness for Switzerland. — Berne. — Swiss Statesmen 
 and Politics. — Distress of France. — The Franco-German War. — Lord Lyons. — 
 Mr. Washljurne. — Versailles. — The French Assembly. — President Thiers. — A 
 Dinner with President Thiers. — Condition of France. — M. Drouyn de Lhuys. — 
 M. Laboulaye. — Dr. Evans and the Empress Eugenic. — Aspect of Paris. — Pros- 
 pects of France, 742 
 
 V. Germany, England, and Home: Belgium. — Berlin. — ^ir. Bancroft. — Humboldt. 
 — The German Empire. — Its Rise and Grandeur. — Its Policy. — Hamburg. — A 
 Free City. — A Handsome City. — On the Thames, — Activity of its Commerce. — 
 Greatness of Loiulon. — Government Machinery in Great Britain, — Its Slow 
 Working. — Rural Beauty of England, — On Board the Java. — Her Passengers. — 
 Montrose-on-IIudson. — Return to Auburn. — Mr. Seward's Speech to his Neigh- 
 bors, 705 
 
 Index, 771) 
 
 c 
 
 z 
 
 M 
 
 r1 
 
 > « 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 »1 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Portrait op Mr. Seward (on stonl) 
 
 Frontispiece 
 
 Mr. Seward's Garden at Auburn 1 
 
 Mr. Seward's Home 5 
 
 New Suspension Bridge, Niagara Falls . 6 
 
 Cheyenne 11 
 
 Summit 12 
 
 Wahaatch Range 13 
 
 Leutze's " Course of Empire." 14 
 
 Devil's Gate, Weber Canon 15 
 
 Pulpit Rock IG 
 
 Thousand-Mile Tree 17 
 
 Salt Lake Valley 18 
 
 Mormon Tabernacle 19 
 
 Brigham Young's Residence 21 
 
 The Remnant of a Tribe 25 
 
 Mouth of Big Cottonwood Cafion 26 
 
 San Francisco 28 
 
 Cliff House, San Francisco 29 
 
 Golden Gate 30 
 
 Meeting of the Steamers in Mid-ocean. S.T 
 
 Fusi Yama, Coast of Japan 36 
 
 Yokoliama, Japan 41 
 
 Japanese Barbers 42 
 
 Japanese Girls 43 
 
 Japanese Cemetery 44 
 
 A Japanese Garden 46 
 
 Tea-house on the Tokaido 48 
 
 Group on the Tokaido 49 
 
 Temple at Kamakurn 50 
 
 Daibutz 51 
 
 Japanese Bonzes 52 
 
 American Legation at 1 oddo 57 
 
 PAtJB 
 
 Japanese Oificer of State 60 
 
 Japanese Interpreter, in Court Dress.. 62 
 
 Interior of Sheba 64 
 
 Tombs of th'^ Tycoons 66 
 
 Nippon-Bas, Yeddo 67 
 
 British Legation, Yeddo 68 
 
 Hama^oten 70 
 
 Japanese Musician 72 
 
 A Book-store at Yeddo 75 
 
 Daimios' Quarter, Yeddo 78 
 
 United States Consulate, Hiogo 87 
 
 Temple at Osaka 89 
 
 Street in Osaka 91 
 
 Entrance to Nagasaki 94 
 
 Nagasaki Harbor 95 
 
 Temple of Buddha at Nagasaki 96 
 
 View of Decima 97 
 
 Woosung 106 
 
 Mandarin Procession 108 
 
 Custom-Houso, Shanghai Ill 
 
 Mouth of the Yang-tse-kiang 116 
 
 Promontory of Shan-Tung 118 
 
 Chinese Fi^liing-smack 119 
 
 Chinese Dogs 125 
 
 Boats on the Pci-ho River 128 
 
 Chinese Agriculture 133 
 
 Western Gate, Poking 147 
 
 Lapis-lazuli Cat 150 
 
 Ancient Observatory, or Hall of Science 164 
 
 Prince Kung 157 
 
 Yang-Fang 162 
 
 Wife of Yang- Fang. (From a Photo- 
 graph by himself.) 163 
 
 
 I 
 
 Long Nails. . 
 Yang-Fang's Sn 
 Chinese Gate-w 
 Temple of Ilea 
 Tablet Hall., 
 The Temple of 
 Gate of the Te 
 
 king 
 
 Image of Confuc 
 Chinese Cart. 
 
 The Litter 
 
 Summer Palace. 
 Bridge on the G 
 
 Palace . . 
 Nan-Kow Pass 
 The Great Wall. 
 Gate at Xan-Ko\ 
 Gate-way at Min 
 Avenue to the M 
 Bridge at Xankii 
 
 er before its ] 
 The Upper Yang 
 Little Orphan Isl 
 Chinese Theatric; 
 Silver Island, on 
 Scene on the Imp 
 
 Hong-Kong 
 
 Trading-Junk . . , 
 Street in Canton. 
 Entrance to the 1 
 Poon-ting-gua's A 
 Opium-Smokers. . 
 Chinese Tombs. . 
 View in Hong-Kc 
 Saigon, at the Moi 
 Native of Saigon 
 Artisan's House a 
 Queen o*" Cambotl 
 
 Singapore 
 
 Street in Batavia. 
 Married Woman ( 
 A Javanese Girl. 
 Scene in Java. . . . 
 Government IIous 
 Lily Pond, Palace 
 Tropical Foliage, 
 Javanese Fruit. . 
 Scene in Java. . . 
 The Uogont Praw 
 The Regent of Bt 
 cors 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 XI 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Long Nailg 1 134 
 
 Yaug-Fang's Smokiugroom 166 
 
 Chinese Gate-way 167 
 
 Temple of Ileaveu 170 
 
 Tablet Hall 172 
 
 The Temple of Confucius 176 
 
 Gate of the Temple of Confucius, Pe- 
 king 178 
 
 Image of Confucius 179 
 
 Chinese Cart 189 
 
 The Litter IHO 
 
 Summer Palace 102 
 
 Bridge on the Grounds of the Summer 
 
 Palace 193 
 
 Nan-Kow Pass 196 
 
 The Great Wall 199 
 
 Gate at Xan-Kow 200 
 
 Gate-way at Ming Tombs 206 
 
 Avenue to the Ming Tombs 209 
 
 Bridge at Nanking, and Porcelain Tow- 
 er before its Destruction 228 
 
 The Upper Yang-tsc-kiang 230 
 
 Little Orphan Island 231 
 
 Chinese Theatricals 238 
 
 Silver Island, on the Yang-tsc-kiang . . 243 
 
 Scene on the Imperial Canal 248 
 
 Hong-Kong 250 
 
 Trading-Junk 252 
 
 Street in Canton 257 
 
 Entrance to the Temple of Ilonan. . . . 261 
 
 Poon-ting-gua's Villa 266 
 
 Opium-Smokers 268 
 
 Chinese Tombs 273 
 
 View in Hong-Kong 274 
 
 Saigon, at the Mouth 285 
 
 Native of Saigon 288 
 
 Artisan's House at Saigon 290 
 
 Queen o^ Cambodia 291 
 
 Singapore 303 
 
 Street in Batavia 305 
 
 Married Woman of Java 306 
 
 A Javanese Girl 308 
 
 Scene in Java 310 
 
 Government House, Java 312 
 
 Lily Pond, Palace Grounds, Java 313 
 
 Tropical Foliage, Java 315 
 
 Javanese Fruit 316 
 
 Scene in Java 317 
 
 The Regent Prawiro da Kedya 321 
 
 The Regent of Bandong, with hia Ofli- 
 cers 325 
 
 A Hostelry in Java 327 
 
 Dancing-Costume 330 
 
 Dancing-Girl 331 
 
 Bath at Sindanlaya 337 
 
 Javanese 340 
 
 Government House, Madras 855 
 
 Madras 364 
 
 The Surf at Madras 370 
 
 Residence of Richard McAlister, Cal- 
 cutta 380 
 
 The Maharajah of Puttecala, Grand 
 Commander of the Star of India. . . 389 
 
 Palace of the King of Oude 390 
 
 Barrackpore 401 
 
 Maharajah of Benares 405 
 
 Xautch Girls 407 
 
 Benares, from the Ganges 409 
 
 Great Buddhist Tower at Samath .... 410 
 Carving on Buddhist Tower at Sarnath. 41 1 
 
 Ghauts at Benares 413 
 
 Temples at Benares 410 
 
 Queen's College, Benares 417 
 
 Residency at Lucknow 419 
 
 Exterior of the Fort 422 
 
 Inlaid Screen, Tomb of Mina Begum, 
 
 Agra 423 
 
 Scene on the Road to Futtehpore Sikra. 425 
 
 Saracenic Gate 420 
 
 Pillar in Akbar's Council-Chamber. . . . 428 
 
 Panch Mahal ^ 429 
 
 Carved Pillars in the Ruins of Futteh- 
 pore Sikra 431 
 
 Akbar's Tomb at Secundra 432 
 
 Taj-Mahal 435 
 
 Cotton-Merchants, Agra 439 
 
 The Taj, from the Fountain 440 
 
 Delhi 442 
 
 The Kootub Minar 445 
 
 Elephants on the March at Puttecala. . 467 
 
 A Conjurer at Puttecala. 462 
 
 Elephants with Howdahs 464 
 
 The Prince of Puttecala 467 
 
 The Himalayas 476 
 
 The Nerbudda 481 
 
 Parsee Children 486 
 
 Entrance to the Caves of Elcphanta. . . 4(>'> 
 
 Aden r>12 
 
 Ismailia C24 
 
 View on the Nile 52tf 
 
 A Girl of Cairo 588 
 
 The Pyramids of Gizeh 540 
 
 c 
 
 Ik 
 
 o 
 
 'I 
 
 .4 
 f » 
 I « 
 
 ' 1 
 
 .1 
 
 
xu 
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 The Sphinx , f>42 
 
 A Street in Cairo C-18 
 
 Street in Cairo C50 
 
 Mosque and Houses in Cairo 052 
 
 Interior of a Mosque, Cairo 054 
 
 Cairo, from tlio East 058 
 
 A Woraun on the Nile 066 
 
 Our Caravan 069 
 
 Temple of Dendera 074 
 
 Thebes 0*79 
 
 Obelisks at Karnak 081 
 
 Columns at Kariiak 084 
 
 Gate at Karnak 080 
 
 Capitals of Columns at Esueh 597 
 
 Youssef and his Donkey 099 
 
 I'hila; 606 
 
 Phihe 607 
 
 Pompey's Pillar 619 
 
 Jatta 626 
 
 Jerusalem, village of Siloam 631 
 
 Pool of Hezekiah 634 
 
 Dome of the Church of tlie Holy Sep- 
 ulchre 636 
 
 View from the Walls of Jerusalem. ... C41 
 
 Mosque of Omar 642 
 
 liethlehem 646 
 
 Mosque on the Mount of Olives G49 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Jews' Wailing-Place 602 
 
 Tower of David, Jerusalem C67 
 
 Ancient Syra and Modern Hcrmopolis. 672 
 
 A Greek Official 67* 
 
 A Group of Heads from the Cesnola 
 
 Collection 675 
 
 Athens 678 
 
 A Greek Woman 680 
 
 Bridge at Eleusis 681 
 
 The Temple of Victory, Athens 683 
 
 Albanian Co.stume 687 
 
 Mosque of St. Sophia, Constantinople. 688 
 
 Ancient Pillar at Constantinople 692 
 
 Fountain of the Seraglio 693 
 
 Seraglio, Constantinople 694 
 
 Turkish Wom.an in Street Dress 097 
 
 Turkish Girl in a Harem C99 
 
 Buda-Pesth 713 
 
 Count von Beust 721 
 
 Florence 726 
 
 The Coliseum, Rome 729 
 
 Cardinal Antonelli 731 
 
 Genoa 740 
 
 Drouyn de Lhuys 759 
 
 Hamburg 770 
 
 A Map showing Mr. Seward's Koute 
 through Asia, Africa, and Europe. . 778 
 
 UNITED aSI 
 
c 
 
 PART I. 
 
 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIO OCEAN. 
 
 < 
 
 CI 
 
 a 
 
 r% 
 
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 p 
 
 1 
 

 
 
 Mr. Seward's Comp 
 Niagara. — Cana 
 Detroit. — Chicai 
 Rapids. — Omahi 
 Navigable Hive 
 tains. — Influcnc 
 claturc. — Wcbei 
 rriosthood. — Br 
 sible Conflict ir 
 — Reno. — Railrc 
 Francisco. — Civi 
 
 Aiihurn, At 
 and an end. T 
 
AUBURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 Mr. Seward's Companions. — His Farewell to his Neighbors. — Western Now York. — 
 Niagara. — Canada and its Destiny. — Influence of Immigration. — Africo-Americans. — 
 Detroit. — Chicago. — President Grant. — Mississippi and Missouri Rivors. — Cedar 
 Rapids. — Omaha. — New Classification of States. — Council Bluffs. — Bridges over 
 Navigable Rivers. — Settlement of Western States. — Clieycnne. — The Roclvv Moun- 
 tains. — Influence of Mountain States. — Sherman. — Separation. — Mountain Nomen- 
 clature. — Weber Cauori. — Salt Lalie City. — Tlic Mormons, their Doctrines, Secular 
 Priesthood. — Brigliam Young's Sermon. — His Family. — Polygamy. — The Irrepres- 
 sible Conflict in Utah. — The Shoshones. - Destiny of the Indians. — Fiorra Nevada. 
 — Reno. — Railroads Result of Abolition ^f Slavery. — Sacramento. — Arrival at San 
 Francisco. — CiviUzatinn of Californi.'".. — Chinese Immigration. 
 
 
 'o 
 
 M 
 
 
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 t" 
 
 i1 
 
 Axiburn, Avgnst 9, 1S70. — Every study must have a beginning 
 and an end. These notes begin at Mr. Seward's embowered home, 
 
4 
 
 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 i4:-^t^m 
 
 whence our journey will begin, and tliey will end here, where, with 
 God's blessing, the journe;y will end. 
 
 Mr. Seward is accompanied by Olive Eisley Seward, hia adopted 
 daughter, and by her siiier, Miss Kisley. The former, in writing 
 these notes, records his political, social, moral, and philosophical 
 observations and reflections, in his own words. Hanson A. Risley 
 accompanies him only to the Pacific. Mr. Alexander W. llandall 
 and Mrs. Eandall, and Mr. George F. Seward and Mrs. Seward, 
 will join him at San Francisco. 
 
 A thousand neighbors and friends are gathered around, whose 
 parting words are made more touching by the fears and anxieties 
 which they express concerning Mr. Seward's impaired strength. 
 His resolute nature suggests the encouragement they need : " Travel 
 improves health instead of exhausting it." " The journey, though 
 long, is now made easy by steam on land and sea." " Wlien I 
 come back, remember to meet me at the eastern door of the railway- 
 station, though we part at the western one." 
 
 Niagara Falls^ August lO^A. — Leaving the pleasant shore of the 
 Owasco Lake, we crossed the Cayuga, passed around the foot of the 
 Seneca, with its beautiful village of Geneva, looked upon the 
 Canandaigua from its encircling hills, and came to a rest at Roch- 
 ester, where the branches of the Central Eailroad unite. Thence, 
 this morning, along the shore of Lake Ontario to Niagar,. 
 
 The plain of "Western New York, gently descending from the 
 lakes to the Hudson, and, under a traditional policy, well improved 
 with canals and railroads, has, from the earliest period of colonial 
 settlement, been a national thoroughfare. 
 
 The enlightened political economy, as well as the liberal princi- 
 ples and elevated social sentiments for which the State of IN'ew York 
 is distinguished, is strongly reflected in the constitutions, laws, and 
 manners, of the new Western States. 
 
 We see, at Niagara, for the first time, the new bridge which has 
 been built just below the great cataract. Like the old one, it is 
 graceful enough ; but, " insatiate " bridge-makers, " could not one 
 suffice?" George P. Marsh is right. Civilizatiun is a constant 
 
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6 
 
 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 warfare of man against Nature. Katurc, however, was made for 
 man, not man for Nature. 
 
 Chatham^ Canada, August IQfh,.- Tf -^^.^s ratlier a surprise to 
 meet a United States consul at n when we were less than 
 
 NBW SUSPENSION BKIDOE, NIAOABA FALLS. 
 
 twenty-four hours from home. But why do we go through Canada 
 instead of keeping bur own lake-shore ? Because the Canadian 
 route is the more direct one to Detroit. Moreover, have we not 
 come abroad to see foreign countries, rather than our own % 
 
 Canada, though no less fertile, is more thinly inhabited than 
 the American shore. Immigration obeys political instincts. It 
 prefers the established equality and social security of the United 
 States. It will be long before either Canada or Mexico can realize 
 its invigorating power. This may seem hard, but it is clear that 
 only one great nation can be built on one continent at one time. 
 The remedy for both of those countries is the same — accession to 
 the United States. Canada has hesitated long, but it will see and 
 feel tliis truth at last — that it is better to be an equal constituent 
 member of a great, powerful, and free nation, than a small, feeble, 
 and isolated state, even though equally free. 
 
 At Chatham, mainly a colored settlement, Mr. Seward has been 
 
 received wltli r 
 comfurtublc an 
 escape from sL 
 (lerground i-ailv 
 doubtless the 
 Yirginny, to ol 
 tion is the last 
 dred freedmen, 
 and great persv 
 Yache, in ILiyt 
 guished, and the 
 
 Detroit, Aiu 
 here, has been a 
 Fitch, a client ot 
 was struggling to 
 
 In the War o 
 surrender and cj 
 Bull Run was th^ 
 M'hieh only the n 
 mount during a i 
 The city grov 
 
 Chicago, Aw 
 merely of Americ 
 English lady in ]> 
 of our sea-coast t( 
 Though an inlanc 
 sea. Built in a 1; 
 above the flood, 
 neither the hoar 
 cupidity of the o 
 broad and fertile 
 the destiny of Ch 
 We meet here 
 teristic modesty 1 
 
DETROIT— CHICAGO. 7 
 
 received with much respect and kindness by the people, who seem 
 conitortiiblo and respectable. They are fu<^'itives who made their 
 escape from slavery in the United States, years ago, on the " un- 
 derground railway." Now that slavery has been abolished there, 
 doubtless the burden of their song is, " Carry me back to olo 
 Yirginny, to olc Virginny shore." The Africo-American popula- 
 tion is the last one that will desire to leave our country. A hun- 
 dred freedmen, about Fortress Monroe, were induced by high offers 
 and great persuasion, during our civil war, to colonize the Isle-a- 
 Vache, in Ilayti. They complained, moaned, sickened, and lan- 
 guished, and the government was obliged to bring them back. 
 
 Detroit^ August l\th. — The interesting incident of our stop 
 here, has been a visit to Mr. Seward of a daughter of Dr. Abel F. 
 Fitch, a client of his who died of a broken heart, while Mr. Seward 
 Avas struggling to save him from an unjust conviction for conspiracy. 
 
 In the War of 1812, Detroit was the theatre of a humiliating 
 surrender and capitulation, which were hardly retrieved — just as 
 Bull Run was the scene of a humiliating rout, the evils effects of 
 which only the mighty issues involved enabled the nation to sur- 
 mount during a four-years' conflict. 
 
 The city grows steadily in opulence and rerinement. 
 
 Chicago, August lUh. — AVithout a prototype, a marvel not 
 merely of American progress, but of all civilization. We asked an 
 English lady in New York, who had passed two weeks here, which 
 of our sea-coast towns she admired most. She ansAvered, " Chicago." 
 Though an inland, border town, it seems nevertheless a city by the 
 sea. Built in a lagoon like Venice, it has raised itself high and dry 
 above the flood. As mercantile as Amsicdam or Liverpool, it has 
 neither the hoarding avarice of the 0^:10 nor the unscrupulous 
 cupidity of the other. Just now grasping, with an iron arm, the 
 broad and fertile shores o.' the North Pacific, how splendid seems 
 the destiny of Chicago ! 
 
 We meet here the President of the United States. Ills charac- 
 teristic modesty has until now been a theme of universal praise. 
 
 c 
 
 2, 
 
 * i 
 o 
 
 w 
 
 o 
 
 •1 
 
 :1 
 
8 
 
 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 But mankind liiivc always expected demonstration of power, pomp, 
 or 6j)eec'li from their rulers. "\Vill tiiey excuse the want of it even 
 ia (lie great General of the Civil War i 
 
 Omaha, Auyud \C)t7i. 
 
 "It's over the river, and over the sea, 
 And it's over the wutcr to Clmrlio." 
 
 It is over the Mississippi Rivor, and it is over the Missouri 
 River, and over a sea of prairie live hundred mi\\s, from Chicago to 
 Omaha. Seventy years ago, the Mississippi River divided the 
 United States from the dominion of France. Sixty years ago Lewis 
 and Clark found only wild Nature and savage men beyond the 
 Missouri. Fifteen years ago, the States of the Union were politi- 
 cally as well as geographically classified as the Northern States 
 and the Southern States. To-day, it is not a parallel of latitude, 
 but an uncertain and shifting meridional line, that determines their 
 classification. 
 
 Of the towns which have sprung up on the plains, we notice 
 
 Cedar Rapids — not for its superiority to others, but as a specimen 
 
 of an inchoate Western city. During ten minutes' stay there, we 
 
 saw the suburban cottages, with pointed roofs, of the Norwegian 
 
 settlers, surrounded by dark-green meadows, covered with flocks 
 
 of geese and eider-ducks. AVe heard airs from " Trovatore " on a 
 
 Chickering piano, in a dwelling-house not yet painted or plastered. 
 
 AVe saw a Mansard mansion of the speculator in city lots, its lawn 
 
 graced with a bevy of croquet-players. There seem to be all sorts 
 
 of churches for all sects of Christians — one surmounted with a 
 
 Catholic cross, and one with dome and minaret borrowed from the 
 
 Mohanmiedan mosque. There are restless express-agents, nimble 
 
 telegraph-messengers, noisy baggage-men and porters. Even the 
 
 "Washington City colored boy is seen there, sauntering lazily 
 
 through the crowd, and repeating, "Black your boots and shine 
 
 'em up ? " watli the poetical variation, " A shine for a dime." Two 
 
 voung ladv-cousins come into the cars, and soon let us into more 
 
 secrets of matrimonial engagements and other interesting events 
 
 which are occi 
 have room to r( 
 Council Bill 
 the Eastern rail 
 the historical ( 
 United States a 
 not Congress it 
 history by trans 
 There is a i 
 Omaha tbr the t 
 bridge, which is 
 by bringing the 
 By-the-way, 1 
 of railroads is I 
 river navigation 
 and exhaustins: li 
 State, or even tli 
 the throwing of j 
 across a boatable 
 While, howev 
 content to cross t 
 boat, a double-eni 
 and is skilfully st 
 dashing, muddy ^ 
 passengers of sev 
 toward the broad 
 Do you see that 
 two bottles of wh 
 the door, " Last ( 
 body, and everyl 
 Boston, New Yor 
 are going to estab 
 the railroads in ^^ 
 fornia; lithe, acti 
 time dogmatic po! 
 "the stran-er," m 
 
COUNCIL BLUFFS. 
 
 9 
 
 which arc occurring in the "society" of Cedar llapidB than wo 
 have room to rehite. 
 
 Council Bhiilri, ou the Missouri Iliver, the conncctin<if station of 
 the Eastern raih'oads with tlie Union Pacific, is lifteen miles !)elow 
 the historical Council IMutls, where tlie first treaty hetween the 
 fruited States and the Indians of the phiins was celebrated. Will 
 not Coni^ress its "canon fix 'gainst" this practice of confounding 
 history by transposing geographical names 'i! 
 
 There is a fierce competition here between Council BluiVs and 
 Omaha for the transshipment of passengers and freight. The new 
 bridge, which is being built over the Missouri, is likely to decide it 
 by bringing the two flourishing towns into one. 
 
 By-the-way, how rapidly the construction of this " mighty maze " 
 of railroads is breaking up the ancient idea of the sacredncss of 
 river navigation against interruption by bridges ! It cost a long 
 and exhausting litigation to ascertain whether the Legislature of a 
 State, or even the Congress of the United States, could authorize 
 the throwing of a bridge across the Hudson or the Ohio, or even 
 aci'oss a beatable inlet of Delaware Bay. 
 
 AVhile, however, they arc building a bridge liere, wo must be 
 content to cross the Missouri by a ferry. A huge and heavy steam- 
 boat, a double-ender, starts from a point high above Council Blutl's, 
 and is skilfully steered first downward, then upward, through the 
 dashing, muddy waters, to a landing-place far below Omaha. The 
 passengers of several converging Eastern trains rush promiscuously 
 toward the broad deck with their baggage, movables, and " things." 
 Do you see that little wooden shanty, on the receding bank, with 
 two bottles of whiskey in the window^, and tlie monitory words over 
 the door, " Last Chance ? " Everybody tells his business to every- 
 body, and everybody asks everybody his opinions and prospects. 
 Boston, j^ew York, and Chicago merchants, bankers, and printers, 
 arc going to establish branches, agencies, and printing-presses, along 
 tlie railroads in Wyoming, Utah, Idaho, Nevada, Oregon, and Cali- 
 fornia; lithe, active, and bright, all-loquacious, and at the same 
 time dogmatic politicians, who fasten themselves tenaciously upon 
 "the stran_;^er," whether lawyer, priest, trader, or farmer, to gain 
 
 
 { ) 
 
 
 li 
 
10 
 
 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 an opinion on the probable result of the presidential election, yet 
 three years distant, of the prospect of an early resumption of specie 
 payments, or of the duration, the immediate result, and the ulterior 
 consequences of the war which broke out only a week ago in Europe. 
 Did not our servant, AVilliam Freeman, who has just come to his 
 political rights under the fifteenth amendment, feel his importance 
 when called on to expound these high mysteries ? See that group 
 of juvenile Italians, with violins and harps realizing a profuse con- 
 tribution in reward for a rather doubtful performance of '' II Bacio." 
 Hear this strong-minded woman narrate to a skeptical audience 
 lier successful achievement in establishing woman's snlfrage in 
 Wyoming and Utah. An express-agent tells Mr. Seward that he 
 has just sent to Auburn the largest pair of elk-horns in the velvet 
 that could be found in Xevada. That cluster standing near the 
 wheel-house, have sold out their forms in Missouri, and are going 
 to look for new ones in Willamette Yalley or Southern California. 
 This group of Indians, gay with feathers and paint, are ])akota 
 ciiiefs returning to their tribe, to relate the M'onders they saw when 
 sitting around the "big kettle" which the "great flither" hung 
 over the fire for them at AVashington. This sturdy fellow in blue 
 is an Irish recruit of the United States Army, gohig to join his 
 regiuient at Laramie, accompanied by a wife, six rosy-cheeked chil- 
 dren, a spaniel, terrier, two brindle cats, and a speckled hen. It is 
 altogether too much to expect that the entire family will escape the 
 ])erils of Indian warfare. It is a notable feature of the motley 
 crowd that it c( ntains not one mere laboring man or woman. 
 Whence, then, and how is the labor to come which is to irrigate the 
 deserts, build the roads, and open the mines ? We may safely leave 
 the question to its practical solution. American i)rogress and civi- 
 lization " know no such word as fail." 
 
 We record our thanks to General Auger for the kind atten- 
 tions shown us at the garrison, and for his orders ]irovi(ling for 
 our safety and comfort through his wide department; and to th<; 
 judges, members of the l)ar, and other citizens ft)r their public 
 and private hospitalities. 
 
 Cheyenne,, A\ 
 day in a distance 
 of five thousand 
 country seems, n 
 nor rock, nor del 
 though quick and 
 almost iinpercept 
 fields, orchards, 
 short and grayisl 
 countless buftalo- 
 
 
 cattle, driven here 
 ports himself in 
 shyly gazes upon 
 sitting ^rect at tl 
 from their tliousa 
 the towering VAw 
 Ilangc ; but the tl 
 we know not how 
 UP, and notliinu: ca 
 
CHEYENNE. 
 
 11 
 
 CheyGnne, Avgust 17 t/i. — Onward and upward, a night and a 
 day in a distance of live hundred miles ; we have gained a height 
 of five thousand feet on the slope of the Rocky Mountains. The 
 country seems, nevertheless, a level plain. There is neither crag, 
 nor rock, nor dell ; and even the flow of the heautiful Platte River, 
 though quick and free, is without cascade or rapids. We have passed 
 almost imperceptibly from a landscape of Indian corn and wheat 
 fields, orchards, and vineyards, to an endless slope covered with 
 short and grayish, but nutritious blue-grass, late the pasturage of 
 countless buftalo-herds, now replaced by scattered droves of lank 
 
 cattle, driven here from Texas and Mexico. The gopher freely dis- 
 ports himself in our way ; the antelope, as if under a fascination, 
 shyly gazes upon us with his soft blue eyes; and the prairie-dogs, 
 sitting ^rcct at the doors of their tenements, solemnly review us 
 from their thousand cities. We expected, on arriving here, to see 
 the towering T)lack Hills, and perhaps the more distant Snowy 
 Range ; but the thermometer has fallen to P>C>°, and the barometer 
 we know not how low. Ileavv clouds rest on the earth all around 
 us, and nothing can be seen bevond or over them. 
 
 
 *■ « 
 
 ft 
 
 ! 1 
 
 ; 1 
 
 : 1 
 
 )\ 
 
 I 
 
 
 lA 
 
12 
 
 UXITED STATES, CAXADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 The Territory of Wyoming, of wliieh Cheyenne is the enpital, 
 has a po[)ulatioii outside of the town not exceeding two thousand 
 Cheyenne grew rapidly during the construction of the Pacilic Ilail- 
 I'oad, hut now, suffering a decline, it may number twenty -five hun- 
 dred. It has, however, just been connected by railroad with 
 Denver, and so with St. Louis. The territorial government, there- 
 fore, seems a machine prepared for future rather than immediate 
 use. The army secures the people against intrusion by Indians, 
 and keeps the peace. Governor Campbell, with the Secretary of 
 State and the Surveyor-General, received us at the station, and, 
 apologizing for the straitness of their dwellings, delivered us over 
 to General King and General Bradley, who have cordially conferred 
 upon us the freedom of the mess. 
 
 "Wliat is to be tlie political influence of these new mining and 
 mountain States ? Their founders arc energetic, enterprising and 
 persevering men. Mountaineers are always frugal and bi'ave, as 
 well as intense lovers of freedom. Their loyalty will never fail, if 
 the Union shall continue to deserve it. 
 
SHERMAN. 
 
 13 
 
 SJierman, August l^th. — Sliernian, ciglit tliousanJ feet above 
 the sea! AVe have made a winding way between the crests of tlie 
 Black Hills, and these are only a lower tier of the snow-elad moun- 
 tains. The pass is treeless, shrubless, ilowerless ; the rocks on the 
 mountain-sides massive, brown, monotonous. What were the llocky 
 Mountains made for? Some of their uses are obvious. A water- 
 shed, they irrigate the continent, while they stinndate human 
 activity by obstructing movement and hiding mineral treasure. 
 I^ow gently descending the western slope live hundred feet, we 
 come upon the great grassy plain of Laranne, on which civilization 
 is making rapid advancement. Five hundred feet lower, through 
 beds of crumbling red sandstone, we land on a broad tloor of cannel- 
 
 WAHBATCn BANGE. 
 
 coal. Prudent Nature foresaw the Pacific Railroad and the mining- 
 shaft. Onward forty miles, dov/nward how many feet we do not 
 know, in the Wahsatch Valley, we come to a settlement which bears 
 the ominous name of Separation. It is the parting between the 
 tributaries of the Atlantic and the Pacific Ocean. 
 
 r. m 
 
 il 
 t 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 :1 
 
How odd a 
 mountain scene 
 " Bitter Creek 
 Walisatcli Ran< 
 stand on the ea 
 
 !{W 
 
 recognize and li; 
 which, under th( 
 great fresco in t 
 its Way." Hen 
 
MOUNTAIN NOMENCLATURE. 
 
 16 
 
 How odd and yet how significant is the nomendature of the 
 mountain scenery : " Eed Desert," " Table Rock," " Black Butte," 
 "Bitter Creek!" Kow, slowly by winding grades, we climb the 
 Wahsatch Range, only five hundred feet lower than Sherman ; we 
 stand on the eastern rim of the central basin of the continent. AVe 
 
 .«> ■ Ji't >>vnviiti 
 
 devil's gate, wbbee caSon. 
 
 recognize and liail the rugged yellow clifi:' and far-reaching plain, 
 which, under the light of a gorgeous sunset, Lcutze has copied in his 
 great fresco in the Capitol, "Westward the Course of Empire takes 
 its Way." ITencc we hurry rapidly downward toward the reseiwoir 
 
 f 
 
 t! 
 
 
 ti 
 
16 
 
 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 of the basin, tlie br jad, blue Salt Lake. The face of the Walisatch 
 Mountains wears no resemblance to Atlantic scenery. These dis- 
 jointed masses of rocks, fractured and shivered, look as if they had 
 resisted lightning, tempest, ice, and flood, for ages. Sublime devas- 
 tation ! The Weber Iliver, here only a foaming torrent, has worked 
 out for itself an arched passage darker and more majestic than 
 Gothic art ever designed. The mountain-dwellers call it the Devil's 
 Gate. There are miles where a declivity, otherwise mibroken, pre- 
 sents at irregular intervals a high, conical basalt rock, standing like 
 the tower of a castle whose domes and walls have been swept away, 
 and buried in the earth. One of these bears the name of Pulpit 
 
 FtTLPIT BOOK. 
 
 Rock, and, though inaccessible, it is believed by the credulous that 
 Brigham Young from its level summit rallied his hosts to repel the 
 army of General Johnson. 
 
 In the Weber Canon, at the foot of the Wahsatch Range, the 
 torrent subsides into a quiet stream. On its bank is an old and 
 solitary pine-tree, which bears a board on which is inscribed, 
 
 " One thousand 
 meditate ; and n 
 names. Let no 
 a valley, it is 
 but a table-land 
 from the bosom 
 wild-horses. 
 
 G^^ 
 
 Salt Lake Ci 
 Valley Railroad 
 where many oth 
 a special train, v 
 at the station he 
 
 Wearied anc 
 neat and checrfii 
 
 lishwoman, the 
 to UP. 
 
 The town, tl 
 
SALT LAKE CITY. 
 
 17 
 
 " One thousand miles from Omalia." Here all travellers rest and 
 meditate ; and many, jjroud of the great achievement, record their 
 names. Let no one suppose that, because Salt Lake Plain is called 
 a valley, it is therefore level, smooth, or grassy. The plain is 
 but a table-land, broken by mountain-spurs, and hilly ranges rise 
 from the bosom of the lake itself, affording pasturage for herds of 
 wild-horses. 
 
 THOUBANB-MII-E TREB 
 
 Salt Lake City, Avgnst 20th.— At Ogden, where the Salt Lake 
 Valley Railroad intersects the continuous Pacific Eailroad, and 
 where many other railroads are soon to meet it, we were taken by 
 a special train, which Brioham Young had sent for us. On arrival 
 at the station here, we were received by General De Trobriand. 
 
 Wearied and worn with mountain-travel, a hostelry even less 
 neat and cheerful than the Townsend House, managed by an Eng- 
 lishwoman, the second of four wives, would have been acceptable 
 
 to UP. 
 
 The town, though so uniclue and isolated, is full of visitors from 
 
 
 f 9 
 i < 
 
 i 
 1 
 
 N 
 
18 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIO OCEAN. 
 
 all parts of tlio United States and Europe, animated by a common 
 sentiment, curiosity concerning tlie Mormons— how they came to 
 be here ; how they live and act ; with what v.-oes they threaten the 
 nation and mankind, and by what means, moral, judicial, political, 
 or mihtary, the anomalous sect shall be brought to an end. 
 
 SALT LAKE VALLEI. 
 
 "We attended divine service this morning in a small and plain 
 Episcopalian chapel. In the afternoon, we were accompanied to 
 the Tabernacle by Mr. Hooper, Territorial Delegate in Congress. 
 The congregation, composed chiefly of women and children, " with 
 here and there a traveller," must have numbered seven or eight 
 thousand. On the platform wore seated the entire hierarchy, con- 
 sisting of tlie president, the apostles, and the high council, the sev- 
 enties, the high-priests, the elders, the priests, teachers, and deacons. 
 Among these dignitaries we recognized merchants, railroad men, 
 mechanics, and farmers, and it is quite manifest that the priesthood 
 is a shrewd, sagacious body of secular persons. The communion is 
 celebrated every Sunday, every worsliipper participating. The 
 
THE MORMONS, THEIR DOCTRINES, ETC. 
 
 19 
 
 ceremony, thougli attended with less solemnity, is conducted in 
 the same manner as in the more popular Protestant denominations, 
 with the d'ft'erenco that water is used in place of wine, a special 
 prayer being ollered that the substitution may be approved. The 
 lir-^t preacher argued that, according to divine promise, the kingdom 
 of God came upon the earth immediately after the departure of the 
 Saviour ; that this kingdom has a key ; that the Church early lost it, 
 and that the Latter-Day Saints have found it ; that it is nothing 
 less than the true principle of marriage, namely, that marriage is 
 not merely a union for earthly life, but a spiritual bond extending 
 through time and eternity : the Mormons having unlocked the gates 
 with the newly-discovered key, are inviting and expecting all nations 
 to enter and build up the kingdom of God. 
 
 MOBMOM TADEBNAOLR. 
 
 During the service thus ftir, Brigham Young sat a silent and 
 meditative observer. He now rose, and a profound stillness came 
 over the congregation. He dwelt briefly on the devotion, zeal, 
 faith, constancy, conflicts, and suff'erings, of the founders of the 
 
 f 1 
 
 M 
 
 *- » 
 
 f ) 
 'I 
 
 < i 
 
 ; 1 
 
 w 
 
 n 
 
 r. 
 
 rj 
 
 .» 
 
 t1 
 
20 
 
 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 Mormon Church. From its past triumphs, and its present security, 
 he inferred tlie favor of the Divine Author of the Christian rehgion. 
 Like the previous speaker, he seemed to avoid the subject of po- 
 lygamy, wliilc he claimed for the new churcli a close conformity 
 to the practices of the early Christians, and the enjoyment of new, 
 special, and continuous revelations. No Christian teacher claims for 
 the writings of Isaiah or Jeremiah, or of Matthew, Luke, or John, 
 more divine illumination or infallibility than the speaker demanded 
 for the attested manuscripts of Joseph Smith. After descanting, in 
 a few glowing words, upon the certain acceptance of the new faith 
 immediately, and throughout the whole world, ho warned the saints 
 of the danger of liiUing from the faith, saying, Avith all the vehemence 
 of prophetic denunciation, " Hell awaits the backslider ! " After a 
 kind allusion to Mr. Seward's presence, the sermon ran to incoher- 
 ent and pointless exhortation. The service ended, Brigham Young 
 greeted Mr. Seward, and asked leave to visit him in the evening. 
 
 The veneration which a Roman Catholic, Episcopalian or Method- 
 ist congregation manifest toward a prelate of their order, at whose 
 hand they have received a sacrament, is indifference itself compared 
 with f 3 awe and reverence paid to the President of the Latter-Day 
 Saints as he retired from the Tabernacle. 
 
 Brigham Young, accompanied by four sons and three elders, 
 passed the long evening in conversation, religious, political and 
 secular, with Mr. Seward. At the close, with an air as free from 
 embarrassment as the patriarch Jacob might have shown in a like 
 case, he invited Mr. Seward to visit sohio of his houses the next 
 day, and see his family, 
 
 August 22cl — The President came with carriages, and drove us 
 first to visit his wife Emeline, a matron of fifty, with her ten chil- 
 dren, from the ages of twenty-five downward. Thence to the house 
 of Amelia, who seems thirty-five years. She has been married two 
 or three years, and has no children. She invited the ladies to try 
 her new piano. We then drove to the dAvelling of the first wife. 
 This house, the first which Brigham Young built in the city, 
 shows him to be a skilful mechanic, with a considerable knowledge 
 
 S, 
 
 of architecture, 
 Brigliam Youn 
 regard their aged 
 repaired to the " 
 ings, in which th 
 They have diffen 
 or piazzas witli i 
 used as a music-h£ 
 
 
 ?5 
 
 of the "Bee-hive, 
 comfortable, and or 
 were received here 
 dren, a large propo 
 flaxen hair, strongly 
 educated upon tlie ac 
 we saw were healtk 
 aflfectionate, without 
 free from boldness 
 
 3 
 
BRIGIIAM YOUXCrs FAMILY. 
 
 21 
 
 of architecture. Slie was surrounded by her sons, Tlirani Youn<]f, 
 I3rigluiin Young, Jr., and their several wives, who all seemed to 
 regard their aged mother witli proper filial afleetion. Thence wo 
 repaired to the " Bee-hive," a complex building, or group of build- 
 ings, in which the remaining families of Brigham Young reside. 
 They have different suites of apartments, connected by corridors 
 or piazzas with the garden, a common dining-room, and a saloon 
 used as a music-hall and chapel. The furniture and appointments 
 
 
 i«fe -" -■''^r:S:f''^— fl - 
 
 
 BBIOHAM TOUNO'S BE3IDBNCB. 
 
 p., a 
 
 n 
 
 ,-* 
 f « 
 « «» 
 
 : i 
 
 of the " Bee-hive," like those of the other houses, are frugal but 
 comfortable, and order and cleanliness prevail in them all. Wo 
 were received here by eight wives and their children. The chil- 
 dren, a large proportion of whom are girls, with blue eyes and 
 flaxen hair, strongly resemble their father and each other. x\ll are 
 educated upon the academic standard of *^h.e "Western country. All 
 we saw were healthful, intelligent, spvigi::tij happy and mutually 
 affectionate, without regard to the difference >f mothers ; equally 
 free from boldness and awkwardness. The mothers, women of 
 
 3 
 
 
32 
 
 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 sad deportment, nro entirely devoted to their children. All the 
 wives are uneducated, except Amelia, who was before marriage an 
 accomplished school-teacher. If there is any jealousy among them, 
 it escaped our penetration. The mind of the first wife is impaired 
 either by age or by trouble. She spoke severely of Gentile cen se- 
 riousness. We were served at every house with the choicest of 
 native fruits and native wine. Except the coachman, we saw no 
 servants. At the " Bee-hive," each mother sits with her children 
 at table, and the several families are served in the order in which 
 they are arranged. Family worship is conducted night and morning 
 by the patriarch, and attended by the entire household. Brigham 
 Young's manner toward his wives is respectful, and toward his 
 children dignified and affectionate. In presenting them severally 
 as they came in groups, with a kind smile for the particular mother, 
 he spoke in this way : " This is our delicate little Lucy," " This is 
 our musical daughter," " This is our son George, who has a mathe- 
 matical genius," and so on. At the end of the visit here, Brigham 
 Young said to Mr. Seward : " You have seen eleven of the sixteen 
 wives with whom I live, and nearly all of my forty-nine surviving 
 children." 
 
 " But," said Mr. Seward, " you are represented as saying that 
 you do not know how many wives you have." The President 
 explained that, besides the wives who are married for time, the 
 Mormons believe in sealing other w'ves only for eternity, and, in 
 regard to such women, he may havf; made the remark attributed to 
 him. ' 
 
 Polygamy, not at first adopted by the Mormons, is an adventi- 
 tious feature of their system. It was authorized by a revelation to 
 Joseph Smith, which was posthumously published. The Church 
 at first desired to suppress it, but it bore the requisite official attes- 
 tation of the prophet, and therefore could not be rejected without 
 shaking the foundation of the whole system. The apologies which 
 they make for it are not altogether destitute of plausibility. It 
 promised to stimulate population when the sect in a Territory, new 
 and isolated, expected no accession by immigration, either foreign 
 or domestic, except of European converts. More women than men 
 
 came as such c 
 comforts for sup 
 neglect, want, a; 
 compatible with 
 schools, nor witl 
 the people. Tin 
 are the conditio] 
 develop the evils 
 matter of religion 
 the just and nee 
 been one of tlie e 
 ages, in all counti 
 constituting what 
 great study of civ 
 nations, the only i 
 lygamy is antagon 
 the family. "Whei 
 any country, an irj 
 the East the hareij 
 results of not men 
 and the demoraliz 
 This is the conflict 
 is not doubtful, an( 
 Gentile populatioi. 
 resources of the ce: 
 be distant. 
 
 The Mormons, 
 
 neons and obnoxic 
 
 like other religious 
 
 enee. How long, 
 
 voke. The field of 
 
 of search is eterna 
 
 henceforth comman 
 
 In the aspect of 
 
 A population ofnej] 
 
 years, occupying a 
 
POLYGAMY. 
 
 23 
 
 camo as such converts. Polygamy provided shelter and material 
 comforts for supernutncrary women who might otherwise full into 
 neglect, want, and possible infamy. So far it has not proved in- 
 compatible with the education and training of children in public 
 schools, nor with the maintenance of order and tranquillity among 
 the people. Time enough, however, has not elapsed, perhaps, nor 
 are the conditions of the community sufficiently matured, fully to 
 develop the evils of the institution. Marriage is not exclusively a 
 matter of religious belief. It is a social institution. To ascertain 
 the just and needful relation between the sexes in social life has 
 been one of the experimental studies of mankind, from the earliest 
 ages, in all countries. The marriage of one man with one woman, 
 constituting what we call the family relation, is the result of that 
 great study of civilization. It is universally accepted by Christian 
 nations, the only nations which enjoy a matured civilization. Po- 
 lygamy is antagonistic to, and incompatible with, the existence of 
 the family. When the two institutions are bi jught into contact in 
 any country, an irrepressible conflict ensues. In all the nations of 
 the East the harem has hitherto prevailed in that conflict, with the 
 results of not merely the degradation but the enslaving of woman, 
 and the demoralization and corruption of the entire social body. 
 This is the conflict which is just now beginning in Utah. The end 
 is not doubtful, and, with the rapid increase of what is called the 
 Gentile populatioi. , coming to develop the mineral and agricultural 
 resources of the central regions of the continent, that end cannot 
 be distant. 
 
 The Mormons, as a religious sect, soon to cast oif the heteroge- 
 neous and obnoxious institution of polygamy, may survive, and, 
 like other religious and ecclesiastical associations, enjoy a long exist- 
 ence. How long, may depend upon the persecution it may pro- 
 voke. The field of purely religious inquiry is infinite, and the spirit 
 of search is eternal. It demands, and will in all civilized states 
 henceforth command, toleration. 
 
 In the aspect of political economy, Utah is a wonderful success. 
 A population of nearly one hundred thousand, doubling every ton 
 years, occupying a soil naturally destitute of vegetation, has, by iiTi- 
 
 2 
 
 
 ' I 
 
 \\ 
 
24 
 
 rXITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 gatiuii and other processes, pi'oduced an abundant granary for sup- 
 plying the wants of immigrants on their way to the new mountain 
 States and Territories on every side. Whatever may be the future of 
 Utah and the Mormon sect, Brigham Young M'ill have an historical 
 character. He was originally an uneducated carpenter, in youth a 
 townsman of Mr. Seward's at Auburn. The latter, while seeing no 
 reason to question Young's sincerity in his eccentric religious faith 
 and practices, deems it unjust to deny him extraordinary ability, 
 energy, and perseverance, as a founder of an American State. His 
 failure, however, in one of his designs, periiaps at the time the most 
 cherished of all, will serve as a warning to future American colo- 
 nizers. Leading his exiled and persecuted band from the banks 
 of the Mississippi across the wilderness, he refused to stop until he 
 had found an asylum outside of the territory and jurisdiction of the 
 United States. Scarcely, hoM'ever, had he discovered this land of 
 refuge in Mexico, before the Government acquired title, and ex- 
 tended its authority over not only that region, but the whole coun- 
 try to the Pacific Ocean. 
 
 EltihOy August 2^d. — Brigham Young, attended by a group of 
 wives and children, took leave of ]\Ir. Seward at the station in Salt 
 Lake City ; and a conunittee, composed of Mormon elders, camo 
 with us by special train to Ogden. There two palatial cars awaited 
 us, which had been sent across the Sierra Nevada by Mr. Seward's 
 friends at Sacramento. These are furnished with a dining-room, 
 well-supplied pantry, kitchen, and sleeping-apartments. 
 
 Salt Lake, though fed by saline springs, is the reservoir of many 
 mountain-streams, the Weber River, Bear lliver. Blue Creek, and 
 others. Its waters are shallow and unwholesome ; but we saw 
 cattle feeding near it, and land-birds flying over it. Its beach is 
 always thickly incrusted with salt, produced by solar evaporation. 
 Large timber grows in the mountaln-caiions, and the soil, wherever 
 irrigated, is i)rolific of cereals, grasses, and fruits. The peach, 
 plum, and gra])o, arc unsurpassed, even in California. Our last 
 Bunset view of the lake, taken a hundred miles west of Ogden, was 
 one which we are not likely to forget. The great orb, suspended 
 
 over tlie water< 
 
 was clothed in 
 
 broad and grace 
 
 Here, at Elc] 
 
 Shoshones, once 
 
 Must these Ind 
 
 white man ? It 
 
 version to the us 
 
 to that end, from 
 
 =r^^^?^ 
 
 )t 
 
 f^iiled. The expei 
 no more proinisinir 
 ill numbers, has nr 
 zation. Exalted to 
 of Mexico may besa 
 twecn tiio pnre Indi 
 liave practically cea 
 tlivided by castes, of 
 
DESTIXY OF THE IXDIAXS. 
 
 25 
 
 over the waters, kindled tliem to a dazzling blaze, while the sky 
 was clothed in a drapery of purple and gold, which extended in 
 broad and graceful festoons across the entire horizon. 
 
 Here, at Eleho, we find a wretched and S(pialid remnant of the 
 Shoshones, once the proprietors of the region we are surveying. 
 Must these Indian races indeed perish before the march of the 
 white man ? It would seem so ; they could only be saved by con- 
 version to the usages and habits of civilization, but all past efforts 
 to that end, from the Atlantic to the centre of the continent, have 
 
 t1 
 
 •c '. 
 
 '.1 
 
 * 
 
 < V 
 I 
 
 THE r.EMNANT OF A TRinR. 
 
 failed. The experiments of the same sort on the Pacific coast are 
 no more promising. The Aztec race, though it has not increased 
 in numbers, has not diminished under Spanish conquest and coloni- 
 zation. Exalted to citizenship, suffrage, and education, the Indians 
 of Mexico may bo saved ; but it is noticeable that intermarriages be- 
 tween the pure Indians and the Creoles and European immigrants 
 have practically ceased, and that Mexico exhibits therefore a nation 
 divided bv castes, of which the native one is the most numerous, 
 
 1 
 
26 
 
 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 while tlio foreign one is the most wealthy and intelligent. One 
 cannot but hope that the Aztecs of Mexico may prove an exception 
 to the elsewhere universal process of extermination. 
 
 Jleno. — On leaving Elcho, we followed a mountain-pass which 
 is barricaded with basalt columns, more picturesque than the ad- 
 mired Palisades of the Hudson, and this pass brought us out on 
 the bank of the Humboldt Eiver. We have followed its wild and 
 
 ^^Sff^^^^^^^^^^^^^P^^^^-' 
 
 MOUTn OP BIO COTTONWOOD OASON. 
 
 winding way as it flows over an alkaline bed, destitute of vegeta- 
 tion, two hundred and fifty miles, until it spreads its waters over 
 a broad and sterile plain and sinks into the earth. From this 
 ])lain wo began the eastern ascent of the Sierra Nevada. The 
 jMusonous mineral dust, raised by the whirlwind, was excoriating 
 as wo passed over this desert of the desert, seeing neither tree nor 
 stream after leaving the lost river. 
 
SACRAMENTO. 
 
 2T 
 
 Wg declined here a pressing invitation to diverge and visit 
 "Virginia City, as we had declined at Salt Lake, Ogden, Cheyenne, 
 and Omaha, to diverge to other points of mining and political in- 
 terest. The frequency of these invitations is strongly suggestive 
 of the rapidity vrith which branch railroads and common roads are 
 entwining the giant limbs of the new members of the republic, 
 
 "What is the secret of this sudden and prodigious increase of 
 national energy in the prosecution of internal improvements ? It 
 is one of the first fruits of the abolition of slavery. Conservatism 
 of the constitutional compromises in the interest of slavery, of 
 course in :>ractlce, became conservatism of slavery itself, and this 
 principle, developed in 1800, and gaining strength during fifty 
 years, has been effectually obstructive of material improvement 
 and national progress. 
 
 Sacramento, August '^^dh. — The desert is passed at Eeno. The 
 mountain scenery becomes fresh and cheerful with plentiful ever- 
 green forests, and, where they have been removed, rich meadows. 
 
 Mr. Stanford, Mr. Crocker, and Mr. Mills, met us on the way, 
 and accompanied us down the western slope of the Sierra Nevada, 
 a long journey, though the distance is short. The highest en- 
 gineering skill Liust have been employed in effecting this passage 
 through mountains so nigged, steep and wild. This morning the 
 engineer whiptled " Down brakes ! " to avoid collision with a train 
 which seemed to be coming from the opposite direction, but which 
 proved to be the end of our own train. We left massive brown 
 mountains, deep-blue lakes, and canons clothed in evergreen, and 
 entered a broad plain, lightly shaded with groups of laurel and live- 
 oak. Newly-harvested wheat-fields, and fields yet covered with 
 native oats, are boundless. Although the engineer had brought us 
 here in advance of tlie appointed hour, Mr. Seward was neverthe- 
 less greeted with a salvo, and it was not without difficulty that wo 
 made our Avay through the friendly mass who were gathered to 
 welcome him. 
 
 A drive through city and suburbs, and over the race-course, a 
 dinner at Mr. Stanford's, and an evening reception at Mr. Crocker's, 
 
 t\ 
 
 t tt 
 I » 
 
 < I 
 
 1 
 
 i ^ 
 
 5^ 
 
28 
 
 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND TACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 closed the day, giving iis a pleasing acquaintance with tlic refined 
 and spirited society of the capital of California. 
 
 San FrancisGO, Septemher 1st. — Mr. Seward, desirous to avoid 
 an appearance of seeking a renewal of the hospitalities extended to 
 liiin here last year, on his tour to Alaska and Mexico, effected a 
 quiet entrance into the town, and we have been the guests, since 
 
 General Scofi( 
 
 department, a 
 
 conimandiniT t 
 
 ously. These 
 
 Mcek, closed la 
 
 What eapr 
 
 "W'^rested from 1 
 
 to cnlai-go the 
 
 in large tracts, 
 
 of the disposs 
 
 
 ■= tS=?W«c»^^»'7 
 
 . -■*--■ .vi; — =* '■•i '-•- — ■- 
 
 our arrival, of his old friend and travelling-companion, Mr. Hastings?, 
 "\Ye have visited the Cliff House ; and made for all, but Mr. Seward, 
 a first acquaintance with the Scal-Eocks, their am]>liibious inhabi- 
 tants, and the Pacific Ocean. '\Ve could not describe, if we should 
 attempt, the bewildering land excursion ot two days, and the 
 magnificent entertainment at Belmont, which Mr. Ralston gave lis, 
 or our beautiful steam-yacht excursion around the harbor and bay. 
 
 schools been est 
 the hold of Spa 
 seized the cntin 
 rapid colonizatio 
 exceptions, ncitl 
 priests to toacli, 
 were founded cl 
 
CIVILIZATION OF CALIFORNIA. 
 
 29 
 
 General Scofield, late Secretary of "War, now at tlio head of tins 
 department, and Admiral Winslow, the hero of the Ivearsargc, 
 commanding the Pacific squadron here, have entertained us gener- 
 ously. These arid other hospitalities, all crowded into one short 
 week, closed last night with a ball at the house of Mr. Avery. 
 
 What caprices have marked the civilization of California ! 
 AVrested from the native Indians, one hundred and fifty years ago, 
 to enlarge the dominion of Spain ; parcelled fifty years afterward, 
 in large tracts, among bookish priests devoted to the conversion 
 of the dispossessed proprietors — hardly had the cathedrals and 
 
 I 
 
 CLIFF IIOlrSE, SAN FUANrlSCO. 
 
 schools been established, when revolution tore the territory from 
 the hold of Spain, and the Eepublic of Mexico confiscated and 
 seized the entire domain. Then came purchase, conquest, and 
 rapid colonization, by the United States. The>^e have left, with few 
 exceptions, neither ^Mexican proprietors to occupy, nor Spanish 
 priests to teach, n(n* Indians to be taught. The Catholic churches 
 were founded chiefly in 1T7G- 78. How little did their builders 
 
 11 
 
 
 I' 1 
 
 I ! 
 
 } 
 
 h 
 
 
-SO 
 
 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 |j> 
 
 understand the mighty revolution that had just then broken out 
 on the other side of the continent — a revolution that was destined 
 to modify not only the civil but also the ecclesiastical systems of the 
 
 earth ! 
 
 San Francisco, though only twenty years old, already assumes 
 the aspect, tone, and manners of an inter-continental emporium, a 
 counterpart to the Atlantic metropohs. 
 
 The absorbing topic here is, Chinese immigration. Mr. Seward 
 has declined an invitation given him by the anti-Chinese party to 
 explore the Chinese quarter, and see how unfit its hihabitants are 
 to become citizens of the United States ; and also a like invitation 
 from the Chinese settlers to make the same exploration, to see how 
 harmless and profitable that colonization is. The Eepublican party 
 have lately acquiesced in the policy of exclusion, which has been 
 insisted upon so long and go strenuously by the Democratic party. 
 Mr. Seward protests firmly pf^ainst this, and teaches tliat immigra- 
 tion and expansion are the n .m and inseparable elements of civili- 
 zation on the American Continent, and nowhere more needful or 
 beneficent than on the Pacific coast. He says confidently, to both 
 parties, that all attempts will fail to suppress or stifle either of those 
 invigorating forces. 
 
 COLOKN OATX. 
 
 The Vessels of the 
 of the Preaehe 
 The Moods of 
 cutiis.— The Be 
 
 8teamer Ch 
 having receive( 
 More kind frien 
 we had been loi 
 been thirty yea 
 taxed his streng 
 
 We passed t 
 Gate, with scar 
 our voyage on a 
 
 Septemler U 
 
 wheel steamers, 
 
 passed only by 1 
 
 Island Sound. 
 
 den, is the smr 
 
 promenade sevei 
 
 have sixty cabi] 
 
 that number. 
 
 Minister rctumi 
 
 dozen English ci 
 
 Japan and Chin 
 
 pany of the prea 
 
CHAPTEK II. 
 
 FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO JAPAN. 
 
 The Vessels of the Pacific Mail Line. — Our Fellow-Passergers. — " The Great Company 
 of the Preachers." — The Chinese Passengers. — The Great Event of the Voyage. — 
 The Moods of the Sea. — A Still Greater Event. — The Loss of a Day. — The Gyas- 
 cutus. — The Beginning of the End. — The Coast of Japan. — The Ocean-Fisheries. 
 
 Steamer China, Pacific Ocean, Sejytemher 1, 1870. — Our party 
 having received its promised accessions, we embarked at noon. 
 More kind friends could not have come on board to take leave if 
 we had been long residents of San Francisco. If Mr. Seward had 
 been thirty years younger, such a parting would even then have 
 taxed his strength. 
 
 We passed the sometimes turbulent, but always majestic Golden 
 Gate, with scarcely a disturbance of the ship's balance, and began 
 our voyage on a calm sea and under a bright sky. 
 
 Septemljer Uh. — The vessels of the Pacific Mail Line are side- 
 wheel steamers, and in accommodations and appointments are sur- 
 passed only by the palatial boats on the Hudson River and Long 
 Island Sound. The China, four thousand three hundred tons bur- 
 den, is the smallest of them all. "VVe enjoy an uninterrupted 
 promenade seven hundred feet in circuit on the upper deck. We 
 have sixty cabin-passengers, and might carry comfortably twice 
 that number. Among them are General Ylangally, the Russian 
 Minister returning from St. Petersburg to Peking, and half a 
 dozen English civil officers coming from "home" to their posts in 
 Japan and China. " Great," it must be confessed, " is the com- 
 pany of the preachers :" Fifteen American missionaries with tlieii 
 
 -:- 
 
 H 
 
 » 1 
 
 4 
 
 I' « 
 ( « 
 
 • I 
 
 s 
 J 
 
 M 
 

 UxXITED STATES, CANADA, AND TACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 wives and children ! — tlie elder families rctnrning, and the younger 
 goini^ for the lirst time to fields of labor in Japan, China, Siam, 
 and India ; United States naval officers, on their way to join the 
 Asiatic scjuadron, four English and as many American youths just 
 cmer"-ed from college on an Eastern- tour ; a United States Treas- 
 ury agent, going to inspect the Oriental consulates ; and one Amer- 
 ican office-seeker, at least, proceeding to lay his claims before the 
 Emperor of China at Peking. The gentlemen amuse themselves 
 with gymnastic games, the ladies with music and books. An ex- 
 pert Japanese juggler entertains us in the cabin. In the steerage, 
 are five hundred Chinese returning home. They pay less than half 
 price, and are fed with the simple fare of their country. Knowing 
 no use of beds, they sleep on the floor. In the middle of their 
 cabin they have made, with canvas, a dark room for opium-smoking. 
 AVhen on deck, they appear neatly clad, and amuse themselves with 
 unintelligible and apparently interminable games of chance. The 
 annual immigration of Chinese to the United States is twelve thou- 
 sand. They arc invariably successful. Half the number go l)ack 
 to China, either on visits or to remain. Our freights consist of 
 Mexican silver dollars, manufactured goods, agricultural machines, 
 carriages, furniture, flour, butter, fruits, drugs, and patent medicines. 
 These go in exchange for teas, silks, rice, and Chinese emigrants. 
 
 Sej)temler 6th. — The great event of the voyage occurred this 
 morning. All were on deck, in a state of pleasant excitement. 
 At seven o'clock, precisely the hoi r which the captain had fore- 
 told, the ship America, eighteen days from Yokohama, appeared 
 in a direct line before us, under full pressure, and with square 
 sails set. Signals were promptly exchanged, and, to avoid colli- 
 sion, each ship turned slightly from its course and stopped. The 
 America has eighty cabin-passengers and four hundred Chintse. 
 The cabin-passengers on either vessel cheered loudly, the Chinese 
 looking on silent and thoughiful. A M'ell-manned gig, with an 
 officer in the stern, came bounding over the waves, and deliv- 
 ered to us Chinese and Japanese (Europerin) newspapers, with a 
 bag of letters from her passengers. AVe, in return sent on board 
 
 the latest A 
 letters to ou 
 hoisted to it 
 
 
 gracefully bo^ 
 passengers rep 
 nounced that 
 course, and in I 
 the waving of I 
 America.* 
 
 If we gavel 
 European Avar,! 
 change gave uf 
 pean powers d 
 recent dreadful 
 that Mr. Sewa 
 says that Fran) 
 war against CI 
 nation will. 
 
 * The telcgrapli 
 of yokohama, Augij 
 
THE GREAT EVENT OF THE VOYAGE. 
 
 33 
 
 the latest American newspapers, and a mail well charged with 
 letters to our friends at home. The America's boat was then 
 hoisted to its davits, the walking-beams of the two giant ships 
 
 MEETI'*'^ OF THE STEAMERS IN MID-OrEAN. 
 
 graceftdly bowed to each other, the wheels gently revolved, the 
 passengers repeated their cheers, and a gnn from either deck an- 
 nounced that the meeting was over. Each vessel resumed its 
 course, and in a few moments not even a spy- glass could discover 
 the waving of handkerchiefs or other signal on the deck of the 
 America.* 
 
 If we gave to the eastern-bound travellers the first news of the 
 European war, and of the death of Admiral Farragut, they in ex- 
 change gave us intelligence of an expected war between the Euro- 
 pean powers and the Chinese Government, in consequence of the 
 recent dreadful massacre at Tien-Tsin. Every one is astonished 
 that Mr. Seward persists in his purpose of visiting Peking. lie 
 says that France, in her present disabled condition, cannot make 
 war against China, and, without the lead of Franco, no Western 
 nation will. 
 
 * The telegraph f om Shanghai reports that the America was burned in the haibot 
 of yoliohama, Augv.st 26, 1872. 
 
 ri 
 
 ■I 
 
 (J 
 
 hi 
 
34 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 Septemler \UK. — Those who would know the sea, have need to 
 study its varying moods and aspects. They must see it in the later 
 hours of cloudless night, when it reflects the bright stars and con- 
 stellations; they must see it in the morning twilight, when its 
 broad surface seems contracted to a small, dark lake, and then un- 
 der the illumination of the dawn it resumes its illimitable expanse. 
 Doubtless it is terrible in its more serious moods by reason of its 
 vastness, darkness, and powerful agitation, all elements of the sub- 
 lime. Happily for us, we have not yet witnessed those moods. 
 
 September IQth. — It was a mistake to pronounce our meeting 
 with the America, on the 6th, the event of the voyage. A 
 greater one has just occurred. Our last date is the 14th. This 
 note is written on the 16th. The former entry certainly was 
 made yesterday. The chronometer marked eight o'clock at 
 night at Greenwich, at the very hour when our clock, which 
 keeps the running time, marked eight o'clock in the morning. "\Ye 
 are half-way around the world from Greenwich, and have lost just 
 half a day. It is quite clear that, if we should continue onward 
 making the same discrepancy of time, we should have lost a whole 
 day on arriving at Greenwich. We might postpone the readjust- 
 ment of our ship's time until we reached Greenwich, but the 
 scientific world has wisely decided that this readjustment shall 
 be m.^de in every case by compromise on the ISOtli meridian, and 
 therefore, instead of striking out a half-day here, we strike out a 
 whole one. 
 
 If the absolute loss of one whole day out of our lives is a dis- 
 tressing thing to think of, we may console ourselves with Ked 
 Jacket's profound reflection. When a missionary had delivered be- 
 fore the Seneca nation, in council, a homily in the usual style on 
 the shortness of life, and the necessity of improving its fleeting 
 hours, he called on them for an expression of their sentiments on 
 that important subject ; Red Jacket, having duly consulted with 
 the chiefs, head men, women, and warriors, responded in their be- 
 half: "Red men have all the time there is going; they do not 
 see that white men have any more." 
 
THE COAST OF JAPAN. 
 
 86 
 
 Septemher 20(h. — Four thousand miles from San Francisco. 
 The sea lias come down from the long, surghig swell of a few days 
 past, and is now smooth and glassy. We have entered the outer 
 belt of the hot circular current which warms the coasts of Japan, 
 Siberia, and Alaska. 
 
 A brig under full sail is seen, though at a great distance, mov- 
 ing eastward. Everybody tries the spy-glass to make her out. 
 When all have failed, a passenger, noted for controversialism, pro- 
 nounces that the brig is the Gyascutus, from Macao, bound for 
 Valparaiso, freighted with coolies. "VVe all start at once, and ask, 
 " How do you know ? " "I assert it to be the fact," he replies ; 
 "let liim prove the contrary who can. If this is not sufficient 
 proof, it is at least the same form of argument that our preacher 
 used in his sermon last night." 
 
 September 23d. — The beginning of the end ! Every inch of the 
 deck, bulwarks, stanchions, rigging, and boats, has been scoured, 
 tarred, or painted, and the whole ship is clean as a Shaker meeting- 
 house. Our five hundred steerage-passengers are confined within 
 a rope-enclosure on the forward -deck — they appearing in new and 
 shining cotton clothes, with pates freshly shaven. A dozen women 
 are seen for 1,he first time. All are engaged, especially the women, 
 in dropping handfuls of rice and small pieces of colored paper into 
 the sea, to propitiate the gods for a safe arrival. Flying-fish sur- 
 round us ; one white-breasted guil has come to attend us into port ; 
 and a whale, the only one we have seen on the voyage, is spoi;<^ing 
 in the distance. 
 
 Sejytemler 24:th. — The coast of Japan rises in a long, gray outline 
 over the dark sea, but Fusi Yama veils his head, and refuses to take 
 notice of our coming. 
 
 "We have crossed the Pacific Ocean. How much it is to be re- 
 gretted that we must make such long stretches, and yet see so little ! 
 IIow profitable it would be to study the North-Pacific American 
 coast, the shores of Pugct Sound, the Territories on the Columbia 
 River, and Alaska, i.n a near future the great fishery, forest, and 
 
 «•' 
 
 IS' 
 
 
 «: 
 
 '■• 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 t 
 
 
 ( 
 
 •1 
 
 i 
 
 
 » 
 
 J 
 1 
 
 h 
 
 1 
 
 { 
 
 ) 
 
 t 
 
 \ 
 
 r 1 
 
 i 4 
 I 
 
 
86 
 
 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 mineral storeliouses of the world ! — the Aleutian chain of islands 
 hereafter to bo the stepping-stones between the two continents. 
 AVe have lost a sight, also, not only of the Sandwich Islands, but 
 of Australia, a Hftli continent on which a kindred people arc dcvel- 
 
 rUSI YAMA, COAST OF JAPAN. 
 
 oping a state that may at some future day challenge comparison 
 with our own republic. 
 
 The Northern fisheries known in commerce are chiefly above 
 the 34:th parallel. The United States and Russia own more than 
 half of the coast on both sides of the Pacific, north of that parallel. 
 Mr. Seward left, as a legacy in the State Department, an inchoate 
 negotiation of a treaty for reciprocity in those fisheries. Its im- 
 portance may be estimated by recalling the controversies and con- 
 flicts between the United States and Great Britain, during the last 
 hundred years, which have arisen out of the fisheries on the Atlan- 
 tic coast. 
 
PART II. 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA, 
 
 % 
 
 K in 
 
 ri 
 
 * 1 
 
 •J 
 
 »■■.., 
 
 a 
 
 4 
 f -3 
 I « 
 
 ■ i 
 
The Bay of Yokohar 
 bers.—The Toku 
 Monasteries. — Ka 
 
 Yokohama, ^ 
 moonless darknes 
 name of his ship 
 iiiu'hor before mi 
 
 lights of our first 
 around and aroui 
 uncounted sjm])li 
 f^lii]) scarcely mov 
 I»i'cume the longes 
 ••iiid more tediousl 
 last ^VQ gave it uji 
 fl'ip's gun, and tl 
 !»!•( Might an e.\])laii, 
 did not announce 1 
 lialf-past two. 
 
 'I'lie hay of Yo 
 ■•s beautiful, as tlui 
 K''iU'efully from the 
 ^ 'tnia's sacred bro\ 
 '''I't' hills and vallo 
 ^I'l.v ; the harbor is 
 
CIIAPTEE I. 
 
 YOKOHAMA AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 The Bay of Yokolmnia. — Natives and Foreigners. — Native Costumes. — Japanese Bar- 
 bers. — The Tokaido. — Japanese Cemeteries, Gardens, and Temples. — Monks and 
 Monasteries. — Kaniakura. — The Great Statue of Buddha. — The Daibatz. 
 
 YoTiohama, Scptemher 2i)th. — Night clo-ed with more than 
 moonless darkness. With a true seaman's solicitude for the good 
 name of his ship, Captain Freeman still promised that we should 
 anchor before midnight. AVho could think of sleeping when the 
 lights of our first Asiatic port were so near? We walked the deck 
 around and around, from stem to stern ; we tried whist, we drew 
 uncounted symphonies from the piano — but no consolation. The 
 ship scarcely moved, and the equinoctial 24th day of September 
 became the longest of all the days in the year. Time lagged more 
 and more tediously between the hours of eleven and twelve. At 
 last we gave it up, and went to rest. AVe were wakened by the 
 ship's gun, and the slow dropping of the anchor. The morning 
 brought an e.vplanation. The ship's clock had be«m retarded, and 
 (lid not announce the hour of twelve until the chronometer marked 
 half-past two. 
 
 The bay of Yokohama is as spacious, and its surroundings are 
 fiS beautifid, as those of Hampton Roads. The landscape recedes 
 fjracefully from the shore, and high above the beautiful scene Fusi 
 Yama's sacred brow reliects the gh)wing smile of the morning sun. 
 The hills and valleys wear all the freshness of spring. It is Sun- 
 day ; the harbor is gay with the flags of many nations on men-of- 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 » 1 
 
 » 1 
 
40 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 war and mercliant-ships, and is made more animated by the quaint 
 Japanese craft and their shouting, grotesque, native managers. 
 
 Yokohama, Sejytemher 2C)th. — The United States minister, Mr. 
 Dc Long, Captain McCrea, of the Asiatic squadron, Mr. Shepard 
 the consul at Yeddo, Mr. Walsh, and other American citizens, came 
 on board, and after kind expressions of welcome and congratulation 
 conducted us to Mr. Walsh's residence. 
 
 Captain McCrea received Mr. Seward and his friends with na- 
 tional honors on board the United States steamship-of-war Monocacy. 
 
 Accustomed at home to the intermingling of all classes, condi- 
 tions, and races, in subjection to one system of laws and tribunals, 
 with common standards of morals and manners, we are as yet un- 
 prepared for the different constitution of society we find here : 
 instead of one community, two, standing side by side, each inde- 
 pendent of the other — the one native, the other foreign. 
 
 The native population of Japan is forty millions, all of the Mongo- 
 lian type ; * the so-called European population, five thousand, tempo- 
 rarily residing here from various nations, including the United States. 
 These foreigners are gathered upon tracts of land, one, three or six 
 miles square, called concessions, adjacent to native cities in the chief 
 ports of this maritime empire. These foreign settlements are cor- 
 porations, regulated and protected by the several foreign nations, and 
 are copied in all respects from Western models, while the unpavod 
 native cities, built of firs and cedars, thatched with bamboo and cane, 
 are as perfectly Japanese as if a European had never touched the coast. 
 
 It may be conceived that it is difiicult for the transient traveller, 
 who always sojourns among his countrymen, and speaks with the 
 natives only through an interpreter, to study Japan or its people. 
 The Japanese, however they may have been heretofore, are not now 
 jealous or suspicious. They labor cheerfully on the wharves, serve 
 faitlifully in foreign familres within the concessions, and manufac- 
 ture, in their own districts, articles of furniture and fancy goods for 
 foreign markets. They are polite, sagacious, and skilful traders. 
 
 • Tlie Prime-Minister informs Mr. Sewmd that tlio census recently tiilteu gave thirty- 
 five (35) milliuus, but that it was orrunuuud. lie et^timutes the population at titty iiiillionx. 
 
 Ifllij'ilMllllilllllllllBllll, ||||,'',ii ,,i,:.|| 
 
 llij 
 
 ! I'll 
 Iff ■ill 
 
 !i k ' U'l ■^',11'] 
 
 IJ, ,|!'.i 
 
 Mi 
 
 '4'/ ■ 
 :P'i|ii'( '■ ' i» '■ 
 
 I'^'l^l 
 
 iiti 
 
 L 
 
 'ihj wiW_^ 
 
e. 
 rve 
 
 ilC- 
 
 iirtv- 
 iions. 
 
 a. 
 
 
 r1 
 
 t ] 
 
 r 1} 
 
 «'.; 
 
42 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 September %1th. — The representations of native costumes on the 
 Japanese porcelain and lacquer-work, which are found on our tables 
 and in our parlors at home, are not less accurate than spirited. 
 The coarse, black hair is a chief object of pride and care. The 
 
 JAPANEHE BAIIUEIW. 
 
 barber with his scissors, combs, razors, and pomatum, is seen at all 
 hours of the day in the most public places. The women brush the 
 
 hair away from I 
 
 a small smooth j 
 
 pins. The hair 
 
 enough at the si 
 
 in a graceless an 
 
 ing. The barbei 
 
 care is taken to 
 
 use, instead of a ] 
 
 neck. The pom; 
 
 which, growing i 
 
 fringe for the brc 
 
 perors, for sumpl 
 
 in the fields. T 
 
 their dwellings. 
 
 Here, as in j 
 
 quires that the mf 
 guisliing badges, 
 white teeth, and \\ 
 modest costume, 
 immediately shave 
 ments are remove( 
 
JAPANESE HAIRDRESSING. 
 
 43 
 
 hair away from the temples a la Pompadour, and gather it up under 
 a small smooth puiF at the back of the head with gilt and vermilion 
 pins. The hair of the men is shorn entirely oft' the crown, leaving 
 enough at the sides and back to be drawn upward and fastened 
 in a graceless and meaningless knot. The efiect is simply shock- 
 ing. The barber-work being performed only three times a week, 
 care is taken to prevent disarrangement in the intervals. They 
 use, instead of a pillow, a wooden block adjusted to the shape of the 
 neck. The pomatum so lavishly applied is extracted from an herb, 
 which, growing in the eaves of the houses, makes a pretty green 
 fringe for the brown thatched roofs, xliey say that one of the em- 
 perors, for sumptuary reasons, forbade the cultivation of this plant 
 in the fields. Thus the people, while evading the law, beautify 
 their dwellings. 
 
 Here, as in Alaska and in ancient Mexico, civil economy re- 
 
 1,1,11 1, 
 
 
 * 
 
 X 'J 
 
 JAPANESE GIRLS. 
 
 quires that the married and unmarried women shall M-ear distin- 
 guishing badges. The girl, with full !iair tastefully arranged, with 
 wliite teeth, and with the free use of cosmetics, and a scrupulously 
 modest costume, is attra.tive; when married, her eyebrows are 
 immediately shaven oft', her teeth are stained jet-black, the orna- 
 ments are removed from her hair, and she becomes repulsive. 
 
 
44 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, ANi- COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 "Wherever a city of the living is, there is also a greater city of 
 the dead. The Japanese bury on the hill-sides. Though cremation 
 
 JAPAKGSK CEMETBST. 
 
 is sometimes practised, the body is more generally interred in a 
 sitting posture, cramped within a plain, white, scpiare box, borne to 
 the grave on men's shoulders. All who attend, wear white mourn- 
 ing-badges. "Women do not appear in the processions. Burial is 
 without pomp and pageantry. A black or gray stone obelisk is 
 raised over the gi'avc. 
 
 All the cemeteries are crowded, but doubtless this is due to the 
 economy of land required by so dense a population. They are, 
 however, always shaded and green. 
 
 Septemher 2 
 the bay of Yed 
 the high-road w 
 the town. A c: 
 at our landing, 
 is monotonous, 
 huddled togethe 
 to Yeddo in pre 
 company, using 
 way, the projeel 
 under an appreh 
 will base extorti 
 suffer. 
 
 Ascending a 
 
 enjoyed our first 
 
 forward we had 
 
 across the plains 
 
 road-making, but 
 
 hill-tops are cov( 
 
 mingled with th 
 
 At their bases ai 
 
 sides being high 
 
 the woods in the 
 
 The althea, t 
 
 the passion-flowe: 
 
 quire so much ca 
 
 luxuriant here. 
 
 gle ; every hill if 
 
 of land covered b 
 
 there are small j 
 
 barley, bugar, bee 
 
 other vegetables, 
 
 is bestowed on o 
 
 accidental waste c 
 
 bent down by the 
 
 rice, each particu' 
 
LAND WELL CULTIVATED. 
 
 45 
 
 September 'i%ih. — We made an excursion, by boat, to-day, on 
 the bay of Yeddo, to Kanagawa, and its precincts. The Tokaido, 
 the high-road which traverses the island of Niphon, passes through 
 the town. A crowd of both sexes and all ages gathered and stared 
 at our landing. The architecture of Japanese towns and villages 
 is monotonous. The buildings, public and private, are small and 
 huddled together. It was a pleasing surprise to find the railroad 
 to Yeddo in process of construction. It is imdertalcen by a native 
 company, using only Japanese capital, credit, and labor. By-the- 
 way, the projectors are becoming timid in prosecuting the work, 
 under an apprehension that, when it shall be completed, foreigners 
 will base extortionate claims on any accidental injuries they may 
 suffer. 
 
 Ascending a high hill, just beyond the town of Kanagawa, we 
 enjoyed our first interior view of Japanese rural scenery. Thence- 
 forward we had a path only five or six feet wide, which winds 
 across the plains and around the hill-sides, not on any principle of 
 road-making, but simply for the convenient use of the soil. The 
 hill-tops are covered with majestic cypresses and yew-trees, inter- 
 mingled with the chestnut, holly, pine, persimmon, and camphor. 
 At their bases are thick groves of the slender bamboo, which, be- 
 sides being highly ornamental, is the most variously useful of all 
 the woods in the East. 
 
 The althea, the lily, the japonica, the arbor-vitae, the wisteria, 
 the passion-flower, and many other shrubs and creepers, which re- 
 quire so much care and labor in our gardens and greenhouses, are 
 luxuriant here. There is no waste, either by rock, marsh, or jun- 
 gle ; every hill is terraced, every acre irrigated, every square foot 
 of land covered by some tree, cereal, or esculent. Instead of farms, 
 there are small plots, and each is tilled with cotton, flax, wheat, 
 barley, bugar, beets, peppers, sweet-potatoes, cabbages, turnips, and 
 other vegetables, by a single family, with care equal to that which 
 is bestowed on our flower-beds. No allowance is made for even 
 accidental waste of the crop. The individual wheat-stalk which is 
 bent down by the storm is restored and supported. Each head of 
 rice, each particular boll of cotton, is kept in its place until care- 
 
 X\ 
 
 f' -^ 
 
 \ 
 
 V 
 
 • i 
 
 * 
 
 f nJ 
 
 
A JAPANESE GARDEN. 
 
 fully removed 1 
 time in gatheri: 
 ripens, it is har' 
 Despotism, thou 
 empire obliges ( 
 the midst of tlili 
 of two hundred j 
 monastery, surrc 
 designed. We c 
 flights of steps, ea 
 tracted one abore 
 generally used in 
 The temple h 
 unique and grace 
 elaborately, thoug 
 conducted us thn 
 ness, requiring ui 
 ligious observance, 
 priests are vowed 
 sure and habit th 
 spotless white rain 
 tery is divided int 
 but all these were 
 two inches thick, i; 
 board." There is 
 our collation in o; 
 smoking in the ne> 
 bringing his pipe 
 to the floor by way 
 inferred that some ( 
 ties of the house, 
 corridor on every 
 «.iis, in the centre 
 either side. Over 
 on his right, the n 
 lawgiver. No spac 
 
MONKS AND MONASTERIES. 
 
 47 
 
 fully removed by the husbandman's hand. There is no loss of 
 time in gathering the crops into garners ; as tast as the product 
 ripens, it is harvested and immediately prepared for the market. 
 Despotism, though often cruel, is not always blind. A law of tl^e 
 empire obliges every one who fells a tree to plant another. Iv; 
 the midst of this rich and beautiful landscape, within an enclosure 
 of two hundred acres, stands a Buddhist temple, with an adjoining 
 monastery, surrounded by groves such as Downing might have 
 designed. We came upon the base of the temple by successive 
 flights of stepp, each reaching from a platform below to a more con- 
 tracted one aboee. The edifices are constructed of wood, which is 
 generally used in Japan, for greater security against earthquakes. 
 
 The temple has an overhanging roof and portico, which are 
 unique and graceful. The columns, architraves and cornices are 
 elaborately, though grotesquely carved. The bonzes received and 
 conducted us through the sacred edifices with ceremonious polite- 
 ness, requiring us to leave our boots at the door, not as a re- 
 ligious observance, but as a regulation of domestic economy. These 
 priests are vowed to celibacy and temperance, and in their ton- 
 sure and habit they resemble Carmelite friars, except that their 
 spotless white raiment is not of wool, but of soft silk. The monas- 
 tery is divided into numerous apartments by sliding paper doors, 
 but all these were thrown open to us. A fine, clean bamboo mat, 
 two inches thick, is spread on every floor, and serves for " bed and 
 board." There is no other furniture. While we were enjoying 
 our collation in one apartment, the bonzes were taking tea and 
 smoking in the next one. Each bonze, before lifting his teacup or 
 bringing his pipe to his lips, brought his head half a dozen times 
 to the floor by way of compliment to his several companions. We 
 inferred that some of the party were pilgrims, enjoying the hospitali- 
 ties of the house. The temple is a square enclosure, with an open 
 corridor on every side. Nearly the whole floor is covered with a 
 dais, in the centre of which is a largo altar, with a smaller one on 
 either side. Over each a carved image — the middle one. Buddha ; 
 on his right, the mythological mikado, on the left an apostle or 
 lawgiver. No space is allowed for worshippers. They prostrate 
 
 
 
 'A 
 
48 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 themselves at the porch, and are content with throwing small coins 
 into the treasury just within the door. A cemetery near the tem- 
 ple is crowded with monuments of pilgrim princes and saints. 
 Take away from this temple its pagan devices and emblems, and 
 the whole place would seem to be pervaded with the very spirit of 
 religious devotion. It combines seclusion, repose, and silence with 
 solemnity. The good monks dismissed us with many blessings, 
 after having obtained Mr. Seward's leave to visit him at Yokohama. 
 On our return, we found the bay highly agitated. Discarding the 
 life-boats of the Monocacy, we crossed in a native craft, rowed by 
 a vigilant and active though excited and vehement crew. 
 
 years old. Thi 
 to the circumstf 
 pedestrians, wit 
 used horses, anc 
 
 jn 
 
 I 
 
 Sejjtemher SOth. — A second excursion, this time overland to 
 Kanagawa, southward on the Tokaido. A hundred years ago, no 
 part of the United States, perhaps few countries in Europe, afforded 
 a road equal to this in firmness and smoothness. At intervals, hot 
 
 TEA-nOU8E ON TUB TOKAIDO. 
 
 tea in tiny cups, with cakes and sugar-plums, was brought out to us 
 by pretty girls, aitlstes in dance and song. The beverage might not 
 be declined, though we were not allowed to pay for it. In many 
 places we found circular benches arranged under trees five hundred 
 
 The Japanese 
 clustering houses, 
 on either side, m 
 district begins or e 
 
GROUP ON THE TOKAIDO. 
 
 41) 
 
 years old. This frequent provision for rest and refreshment is due 
 to tlie circumstance that travel in Japan is principally performed by 
 pedestrians, with the occasional use of chairs. Daimios have always 
 used horses, and recently foreigners have introduced vehicles. 
 
 
 OBOUP ON TUB TOKAWO. 
 
 The Japanese are a busy as well as a frugal people. Thickly- 
 clustering houses, booths, and work- shops nearly close the road 
 on either side, making it difficult to distinguish where a rural 
 district begins or ends. Occasionally a vacant space opens a beau- 
 
 ri-- 
 
 r \ 
 
 
 ii 
 
 
60 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 tifiil vista. At the end of twenty miles we sent our carriages back 
 to Yokohama, and proceeded in cliairs hy a narrow path over a 
 loftv hill, and then came down on the ocean-beach. The feet of 
 our coolie bearers sank deep in the sand, but we enjoyed the re- 
 freshing spray which dashed in our faces. Then leaving the shore, 
 i;nd following a rugged mountain-path, we came upon a high plain, 
 where once stood the renowned ecclesiastical capital, Kamakura. 
 Practically speaking, Japan has no ruins. An extensive and liand- 
 
 TEUPLE AT KAHAKUBA. 
 
 some temple, which still maintains its prestige, is the only monu- 
 ment of the ancient city. A few miles beyond this temple, we left 
 our cliairs, and, diverging from the road, we confronted a high 
 wooden arch, fantastically painted with bright green, blue and yel- 
 low colors. On either side of the arch is a carved bronze demon, 
 fifteen feet high, protected by an iron railing. These figures, de- 
 signed to be terrific, are simply hideous. They are plastered over 
 with moistened paper pellets, which have been cast on them by pass- 
 ing pilgrims. The adhesion of the pellet is taken as an assurance 
 
THE GREAT STATUE OF BUDDHA. 
 
 61 
 
 that the monster is appeased, and consents to the visit of a votary. 
 Trusting tliat the missiles wliicli our bearers had thrown upon 
 the demons had propitiated them in our favor, we boldly en- 
 tered the gate. Ascending a solid flight of steps, we reached a 
 paved court, three sides of which are graced with monumental 
 shrines of stone and bronze. On a pedestal six feet high, in the 
 centre of the square, is the gigantic statue of Buddha (famous as 
 the Daibutz), sitting with crossed legs, on a lotus-flower. Though 
 description by measurement is not poetical, we must use it to con- 
 vey an idea of this colossal idol. It is flfty feet high, a hundred 
 
 DAIBUTZ. 
 
 feet in circumference at the base, and the head is nine feet long j 
 the hands are brought together in front, with thumbs joined ; the 
 head is covered with metallic snails, Avhich are supposed to protect 
 the god from the sun. Some travellers find in the tace an expres- 
 
 s3 
 
 f ■ 
 
 \ 
 
 ( ) 
 
 
 1 * 
 
52 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 sion of sublime contemplation ; to us it seems dull and meaning- 
 less. The statue being nuide of bronze plates, is hollow; the 
 interior is shaped an'.! titted as a temple. We are iiiclined to be- 
 lieve that the Japanese have lost their early reverence for the 
 Daibutz ; we tind the walls covered with the autographs of pilgrhns 
 and travellers. The bonzes invited us to register our own names, 
 and they otter to sell the god to any purchaser for the price of old 
 copper. 
 
 'TAPANK8B B0NZK8. 
 
 VISIT TO 
 
 Intcrrienr with the Ji 
 Uistory.—The Mil 
 —The Question of 
 Delnoiiico of Ycd, 
 
 On hoard the 
 Seward's arrival at 
 '"v'ted him to a l 
 Jiipaiiesc ministry 
 ^vere to be j)resen 
 Seward ex'cnsed Ji 
 J'ealth and his Iiab 
 "•i-ote, at the same 
 pi'ivate manner, am 
 \y Jiis respects to 
 '"^'. H-e set out on , 
 ''«'ompanied by Mi 
 ^'i'<ldo, at iive'o"cI( 
 ^'"p's salute. 
 
 ^Since our arn'va 
 
 ''f'f, .111,1 everybody 
 
 t';""tlu|ualce or temp 
 
 ^'".vagc; but thesef 
 
 Hr. Seward, prote.si 
 
 nnt'lior (lroj)i)cd. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 VISIT TO Yj^DDO.— INTERVIEW WITH THE MIKADO. 
 
 Interview with the Japanese Prime-Minister. — Tremendous Storm. — Some Points of 
 Ilistory. — The Mikado and the Tycoon. — Japanese Foreif^n Uffiee. — Minister Sawa. 
 — Tiie Question of Saghalien. — The Tombs of the Tycoons. — A Speck of War. — The 
 Dehnonico of Yeddo. — Sketches of Yeddo. — Tlie Interview with the Mikado. 
 
 On hoard the Ifonocacy, Bay of Yeddo, October \st. — On Mr. 
 Seward's .arrival at Yokohama, the Japiineso Government at Yeddo 
 invited liim to a banquet in tlie palace of the namao;oton. The 
 Japanese ministry, with other official persons, In all six hundred, 
 were to be present, and the prime-minister was to preside. Mr. 
 Seward excused himself on the ground that the condition of his 
 health and his habits oblige him to forego large assemblies, lie 
 wrote, at the same time, that he intended visiting the ca])ital in a 
 private manner, and that it would allbrd him pleasure if allowed to 
 pay his respects to the Minister of Foreign Affairs. This morn- 
 ing, wo set out on the excursion thus proposed, in the Monocacy, 
 accompanied by Mr. De Long ; we arrived at the anchorage before 
 Yoddo, at live o'clock, expecting to land immediately, under the 
 ship's salute. 
 
 Since our arrival at Yokohama the weather has been intensely 
 hot, and everybody has been jircdicting some fearfid convulsion of 
 eartlupiake or tempest. A wind with heavy rain gave us a rough 
 voyage; but the sea has now calmed, though the rain continues. 
 Mr. Seward, ])rotesting against delay, asked for boats when the 
 anchor dro])])ed. The ladies shrank from ex])osure ; even the 
 
 r1 
 
 t 
 
 1 
 
 • 
 * 
 
 4 
 
 »' 
 
 < 
 
 ( 
 
 ) 
 
 » 
 
 \ 
 
 r% 
 
 t 
 
 i 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 { 
 
54 
 
 JAPAX, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 United States minister became demoralized, and Mr. Seward was 
 overruled ; so here we are, lying tive miles from Yeddo, under the 
 g'uns of a long line of Japanese forts, built on shoals, midway be- 
 tween our anchorage and the city. The naval officers are to give 
 up their (puirters to us for the night, in expectation of a aim sea 
 and cloudless sky to-morrow ; an expectation which Mr. Seward 
 desires it to be distinctly understood he does not share. In the 
 mean time they are entertaining us with nmsic and conversation. 
 
 Yeddo, October 'Id. — Mr. Seward was right. We retired at 
 eleven o'clock, to the very narrow " regulation In-rths," imprisoning 
 ourselves with close mosquito-nets, in the smallest of state-rooms, 
 looking through tlie open ports at a very silvery moon, bright stars, 
 and a smooth sea, the sliip drawing nine feet on an anchorage of 
 three fathoms. Between us and the forts, the harbor was covered 
 with vessels, including a large number of Japanese steamers and 
 other boats, as well as Chinese junks. Some of these lay quite near 
 to us. There was no sleep. At four o'clock in the morning, a phos- 
 phorescent wave, pouring through the open ports, deluged our 
 state-rooms. At this juncture, the order came down the hatch- 
 way, "Close the ports." The steward informed us that there was 
 " something of a high sea." AV rapping ourselves in our now 
 thoroughly-wetted garments, we rushed into the dark cabin, and 
 there overheard low conversation on the deck, Avhich expressed 
 apprehension of a fearful storm. , 
 
 AVe were on deck at break of day. The sky wore a copper hue ; 
 the air grew intensely hot; the barometer fell from 80° 50' to 28 ; 
 a violent wind seemed to come from all (juarters, and, in the midst 
 of a deluge of rain, blew the sea from underneath the ship, causing 
 her continually to bound and rebound on the sandy bottom. It 
 was the typhoon ! Nevertheless, we renuiincd on deck, lashed ii\>i 
 in our seats, ]>referring the open tempest there to the close and 
 nauseating cabin. The captain was self-collected ; he ordered the 
 to])-nuists down, and every spar well secured. Three anchors, tlio 
 ship's entire ground-tackle, were thrown out ; every vessel, and 
 every other cd)ject on sea and land, now disappeared from our view. 
 
 ^V^ith confused 
 ^\y^t we niicrj.f 
 "1 motion, to ], 
 .I'lvenile officers 
 'Jiirk and di-ear> 
 'lad been wreck, 
 t'lf tidal waves, 
 ^^-ators, or in anj 
 ^t twelve o'c 
 file guns were bi' 
 ^^^^l•ks and stanch 
 ■'^I'-ii-s would cni.sl 
 '"H'crtain whetJiei 
 f" pieces in Jier 
 '"^' air exee])t thr 
 "^ whicli made so 
 ;'''''"^''s an officer, 
 '" •' '"^v voice, ' It 
 claimed, "It is the 
 J^- 'nif an hou, 
 •'"'^ ^^'e sea, thou^ 
 vessels which liad Ij 
 "f' longer there. 1 
 ■*'"' presumption in 
 '''"'^'« f'rew manne 
 '•f'^vcd us around tli, 
 <'" ^''0 way we pas 
 '""'•"^N and hangin< 
 ''•'^<'" vessels were s 
 "'""•^ '>'^v- WJien M 
 '""^•" '»niJdings on tl 
 .'" ^''^' Kr was tho 
 "'^' Monocacy had n 
 ""■ •■'•"«"Iatc liad be. 
 ^'^"*''",v part. 
 
 '"^unset came on 
 
STORM IN THE HAY. 
 
 55 
 
 ue ; 
 
 8 ; 
 
 idst 
 
 With confused fears that some shij) might be driving against us, or 
 that we might be dragging toward a lee-shore, we put our engines 
 in motion, to keep the Monocaoy up to her ancliors. The more 
 juvenile officers, of whom, of course there were many, enlivened the 
 (lark and dreary hours by whispered accounts of all the ships which 
 had been wrecked, or escaped wreck, in all the typhoons, and all 
 the tidal waves, and all the eartlnpiakes that have raged in Asiatic 
 waters, or in any other seas, within the memory of man. 
 
 At twelve o'clock, we were driven from the deck by alarms that 
 the guns were breaking loose from their fastenings, that the bul- 
 warks and stanchions were giving way, and the bending masts and 
 si)ars would crush us. We took refuge once more in the cabin, 
 uncertain whether the ship was parting her ancliors, or breaking 
 t(» pieces in her berth. All the hatchways being closed, exclud- 
 ing air except through a convoluted funnel, a lethnrgy came over 
 us, which made some heli)less, and nearly all hopeless. About two 
 (('clock, an officer, anxiously and carefully consulting the glass, said 
 in a low voice, ' It is rising," and, after a few seconds more, he ex- 
 claimed, "It is the end ! " And so it was. 
 
 In half an hour we were on deck again. The sky was bright, 
 and the sea, though yet rolling, had lost its violence. But the 
 vessels which had been moored in such dangerous proximity were 
 no longer there. The lee-shore was so near that we wondered at 
 our presumption in having aiu-hored there. At five o'clock, a full 
 boat's crew manned a prize-gig, and with bright and merry oars 
 rowed us around the forts to the wharf of the consulate at Yeddo. 
 On the way we passed a crowded steamer, broken directly in the 
 middle, and hanging across the rampart of the upper fort; while a 
 (l('Zcn vessels were seen half out of water in the shallow and treach- 
 erous bay. When we saw the broken walls, overturned trees and 
 fallen buildings on the shore, we were convinced that our anchorage 
 in the bay was the safer refuge, notwithstanding all its terrors. 
 The ]\[onocacy had neither parted a ropo nor started a nail, while 
 the consulate had been beaten and shattered on all sides and in 
 I' very part. 
 
 Sunset came on ; while there was no rainbow, all the prismatic 
 
 
 ri 
 
 1'. 
 
 - i 
 
 '1 
 
 ^ 
 
56 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COUIIIN CHINA. 
 
 colors and hues were painted on the broken and rolling clouds, as 
 brilliantly and as distinctly as they are ever seen in the " arch of 
 promise " itself. 
 
 With what grateful emotions did we reflect that the tempest 
 which so often breaks and destroys the stanchest of ships in the 
 Eastern seas, had been in this instance withhold, not only until we 
 had crossed the great ocean, but even until we had found an anchor- 
 age from which we had beheld the terrific phenomenon without 
 disaster ! 
 
 Monday, October 8c?. — The Monocacy having done her best to 
 rouse the sleeperis of the capital by a salute to Mr. Seward, returned 
 down the bay to Yokohama. Thanks to her brave officers and no- 
 ble crew, with earnest wishes for their health and promotion. 
 
 The damages of the considate have been repaired sufficiently 
 for our comfortable accommodation. We are guests of the minister 
 and the consul. At an early hour an officer came from the Minister 
 of Foreign Aflfairs, to learn when Mr. Seward would make his 
 promised visit. lie appointed ten o'clock, to-morrow. 
 
 Before we go to the foreign office, it mny be well to recall 
 some points of history, in order to n\ake our observations on Yeddo 
 intelligible. 
 
 The people of Japan, whether indigenous here or derived from 
 Siberia, assumed political organization, according to their own 
 records, about twenty-four hundred years ago, in the two islands 
 of Niphon and Kiusiu. They were governed by an emperor, wlm, 
 being descended from the igods, was divine and absolute on eartii, 
 and when he died was worshipped. Not only was his person too 
 sacred to be looked upon by a stranger, but even the sun must not 
 shine on his head. It was sacrilegious to touch the dishes from 
 M'hich he ate. At his death, his twelve wives and all their attend- 
 ants committed han-kari. These attributes are still popularly cim- 
 ceded to him. As vicegerent of Heaven, he wears the title of 
 Tenno; as sovereign in temporal affairs, he is the Mikado or 
 Emperor. 
 
 Miilko, some thirty miles inland, was his ancient capital, anil 
 
 
 ri| ,:^ 
 
 mVK 
 
 '^i[r 
 
 'J 
 m 
 
 m 
 
 ':'ilil!': 
 
 Illllljjjillpill 
 
Ins 
 
 KIS 
 
 no, 
 
 rtii, 
 
 too 
 not 
 
 troni 
 
 ■ cun- 
 
 or 
 
 iUlil 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 R- a 
 
 r 1 
 
 r 'I 
 
58 
 
 JAPAN CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 Osaka its seaport. TJie Emperor by divine right owned the landa 
 ill the empire, and in time graciously divided them into provinces; 
 retaining live or more of these for liimself, he parcelled out the 
 others among great lords or ]>rinces, called daimios. In the thir- 
 teenth century, a rebellion arose in the empire, and the Mikado, 
 remalnintr at Miako, committed the defence of the state to the 
 richest and strongest one of these daimios, who wore the title of 
 " Tycoon." This military commander, after a short time, absorbed 
 the temporal sovereignty and reigned absolutely. Yeddo thus be- 
 came a third capital of the empire. 
 
 The Tycoon, nevertheless, paid homage to the Mikad(j, who re- 
 tained his titular rank, and unquestioned spiritual authority and 
 preeminence. Besides the proper revenues of his own five prov- 
 inces, the Mikado enjoyed, for the support of his dignity, an annual 
 allowance made by the Tycoon, out of the general revenues of the 
 empire. As he cultivated religion and such science as tho ago 
 allowed, Miako became the centre of intelligence and learning. It 
 still retains this distinction. Osaka being an alternate residence of 
 the Mikado, it partook of the sanctity of the capital. 
 
 By degrees the Mikado, free from all responsibility for admin- 
 istration, grew in the affcetions of the people, while the Tycoon, 
 exercising his power despotically, and held responsible for all na- 
 tional disasters and misfortunes, became an object of juiblic jealousy 
 and hatred. It was at this juncture that the United States, through 
 Commodore Perry, and the European powers afterward, made their 
 treaties with the Tycoon, in ignorance of any pretensions on the 
 part of the Mikado to temporal power. It was the Tycoon who 
 sent two successive embassies to the United States, one in 1800 and 
 the other in 18G8. In 1805, the ministers of the Western powers, 
 residing at Yeddo, wrote alarming accounts of popular discontents 
 with the Tycoon^s administration, and of frantic appeals made to 
 the Mikado to resume the sovereign power, annul the treaties, and 
 expel foreigners from the empire. For this object, a party was 
 formed by powerful daimios and fanatical ecclesiastics. 
 
 While matters were in this situation, a young daimio, son of 
 the powerful Prince Satsuma, was improving an academic vacation 
 
 in England, to 
 in the Departm 
 of the local par 
 prise, he answei 
 *' is the cause oi 
 He replied : " T 
 a general in the 
 ernment, and cl 
 intolerable." ' 
 tion was connn 
 dred years since 
 The revolut 
 abolished, and 
 leaving his spii 
 resumed the t] 
 the treaties, an 
 powers. 
 
 Octojer 4:th.- 
 at Mr. Seward's 
 according to oi 
 disciplined. 
 
 After a dilig 
 stables in the c 
 worn Englloh c, 
 escort. Taking 
 in Japanese sc 
 to the foreign 
 and the consul 
 gone forward t( 
 found them fill 
 learned that M 
 numerous natio 
 
 The foreign 
 enclosed by a 
 open ; Mr. Sew; 
 
 c 
 
VISIT TO THE FOREIGN OFFICE. 
 
 59 
 
 in England, to visit the United States. He went to Mr. Seward, 
 in the Department of State. lie inquired of the priut'O to which 
 of the local pra-ties in Japan he behjnged. To Mr. Seward's sur- 
 prise, he answered, "to the Mikado's." "What," said Mr. Seward, 
 " is the cause of the civil war, and what question does it involve i " 
 He replied : " The Tycoon, who has no title to the throne, but is only 
 a general in the imperial service, some time ago usurped the gov- 
 ernment, and claims to transmit it to his heirs. This usurpation is 
 intolerable." " How long," said Mr. Seward, " since this usurpa- 
 tion was connnitted ? " " Oh, it is very recent — it is only six hun- 
 dred years since it occurred." 
 
 The revolution was successful, the dynasty of the Tycoon was 
 abolished, and the heaven-descended Mikado in the year ISOS, 
 leaving his spiritual scat at Miako, repaired to Yeddo, and fully 
 resumed the throne of his ancestors. He promptly confirmed 
 the treaties, and of course was duly recognized by the Western 
 powers. 
 
 October Mh. — At nine this morning a cavalry-escort Avas ]>laced 
 at Mr. Seward's command. It is attentive and orderly, although, 
 according to our Wester) i ideas, not particularly well mounted or 
 disciplined. 
 
 After a diligent exploration of the two or three European livery- 
 stables in the city, the consul succeeded in procuring three well- 
 worn Englioh carriages, drawn by native ponies, like those of our 
 escort. Taking no heed of the suggestion that women are forbidden 
 in Japanese sceicty, and unknown at court, Mr. Seward proceeded 
 to the foreign office with the ladies, the minister, Mr. llandall 
 and the consul. (Mr. George F. Seward and Mrs. Seward have 
 gone forward to Shanghai.) As we drove through the streets, wc 
 found them filled with gayly-dressed and merry crowds, and thus 
 learned that Mr. Seward's appointment had fallen on one of the 
 numerous national holidays. 
 
 The foreign office is in the centre of a paved court, which is' 
 enclosed by a stone-wall twelve feet high. The gates were wide 
 open ; Mr, Seward and his friends were received by hundreds of 
 
 »-■•'•»« 
 It 
 
 '. '^ 
 
 
60 
 
 JAPAN. CHINA. AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 official persons, with protuinid demonstrations of homage. The 
 inner building is of wood, one story high, surrounded by a broad 
 corridor. The corridor itself is sei)arated from the court by sliding 
 sash-doors, with oiled-paper and silk instead of glass. On the inner 
 side the corridor opens into a succession of chand)ers constructed 
 like those of the monastery we have before described ; the apart- 
 ments small, the ceilings low and the partitions movable panels. 
 The floors are covered with matting. 
 
 \Ve were conducted throujijli the corridor to a room a little 
 larger than ''e ovhevs, perhaps eighteen feet square. Some furni- 
 ture had be( ;; tosnoorized here. There was a European centre- 
 
 
 
 JAPANESE OKKICKR OK STATE. 
 
 table covered with 
 under the table, ai 
 and a rich bronze 
 StOols in the ord( 
 ard beinix next tl 
 great rustling of sil 
 He bowed many ti 
 Seward in the Auk 
 as they were fornui 
 embari'assment in i 
 U'ell he might, fo: 
 shall come" that t! 
 race, who, within 
 olticial circle in Jaj 
 the ancient court ot 
 have little sense an 
 interior has this in 
 admitted here." 
 
 Sawa is live fe 
 ^fongolian, with it 
 and an expression 
 tret very small an( 
 elaborately oiled, a 
 (»t his head rested a 
 by its shape remin( 
 cned under the ch 
 cdhIs with tas-els 
 (hvss was double— 
 the upper garments 
 were of gold and 
 and stockings — the 
 piece; at his side 
 scabbard of ivory ii 
 an impression that 
 inconvenient and 
 in a very low voic 
 
JAPANESE PRIME MINISTER. 
 
 61 
 
 table covered with an oruamentul elotli, a small Brussels rug spread 
 under the table, and ui)on it a laecpiered box tilled with c-hevoots, 
 and a rich bronze brazier containinij^ live charcoal. We cat on 
 siools in the order indicated by the Ja|)anebe usher, IMr. Sew- 
 ard bein<^ next the seat reserved for the host. Presentlv, with 
 j^^reat rustling of silks, Sawa, the Minister of Foreign All'airs, ento cd. 
 He bowed nuiny times verv hnv. lie then gave his hand to Mr. 
 Seward in the American fashion, and afterward to the other visitors, 
 as they were formally presented, manifesting, however, some slight 
 einbari-assment in exchanging this lorm of courtesy with the ladies. 
 Well he might, for " be it known imto all to whom these presents 
 shall come" that they are the only women, of whatever nation or 
 race, mIio, within the menuM-y of man, have been received in an 
 official circle in Japan. The Japanese (xovernment is t ^iohind 
 the ancient court of Ilarouu-al-liaschid, in the opinion that " tmen 
 have little sense and no religion." The [)orch of a temj)le in the 
 interior has this inscription: " Xcither horses, cattle, n"r women, 
 admitted here." 
 
 Saw,! is five feet ten, and stout. Tie has the itures of the 
 ^loiigolian. with its complexion a little relieved, clear, mild eyes, 
 and an expression at once intelligent and amiable; his hands and 
 fcot very small and delicate, his hair gathered up from all sides, 
 elaborately oiled, and brushed and fastened in a knot. On the to]) 
 of his head rested a curiously-carved jet-black lacquered cap, which 
 by its shape reminded us of a toy -boat. This ornament was fast- 
 ened under the chin and behind the head, by heavy purple silken 
 conls with tassels larcre enouffh for nuxlest "svindow-curtains. His 
 tlrcss was double — an under-tunic and trousers of dark silk reps ; 
 the upper garments, of the same cut, though more full and flowing, 
 were of gold and white brocade. He wore sj)otless white shoes 
 and stockings — the shoe and stocking of each foot being of one 
 l)iece; at his side a single sword, highly wrought, with hilt and 
 scabbard of ivory and gold. Some show of awkwardness gave us 
 an impression that he found his magnificent toilet, on this occasion, 
 inconvenient and uncomfortable. Looking at Mr. Seward, Sawa, 
 in u very low voice, pronounced, in the Japanese language, what 
 
 I ! 
 
 *t t 
 
 r. ■• 
 
 . js •« 
 
 r I 
 
 ( ) 
 
 i I 
 
 t 
 t 
 
G3 
 
 JAPAN, CIIIN'A. AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 8()undcd like not one speech, hut a succession of distinct sen- 
 tences. The interpreter I.slitabashi, kneelin*): at his side, at the 
 close of each sentence siirniiied his nnderstan(lin«? of it by the 
 aspirate " Hi ! hi ! hi ! " Sawa having tinished, Ishtabashi gathered 
 
 JAPANESE INTF.UPRETER, IN COrRT DRRAS. 
 
 np the sense of these fragmentary speeches, and rendered the whole 
 into English, as follows : 
 
 " Mr. Seward, all the ministers of Japan proposed to receive 
 you on your arrival at Yeddo, at such a time as you would appoint. 
 But this is a holiday in our country. It is our custom that at this 
 hour, on every holiday, all the ministers repair to the castle, 
 and pay their homages to liis Majesty the Tenao. The other 
 ministers have gone there for that purpose. I have obtained from 
 
 his Majesty tl 
 
 behalf of my ai 
 
 Mr. Seward 
 
 had unwittingl 
 
 Sawa resuii 
 
 by character. 
 
 happy to see it, 
 
 Mr. Seward 
 
 Japan, and bec( 
 
 The Ministe 
 
 60 long a journ 
 
 some. You sIk 
 
 All of us will b( 
 
 a statesman." 
 
 We arc not { 
 
 long and intere 
 
 deferential on b( 
 
 fcssion of politici 
 
 was asking Mr. I 
 
 United States G 
 
 the boundary-qii 
 
 Saghalien. Mr, 
 
 responsibility, tr 
 
 the United Stat 
 
 other side of the 
 
 them concernin<i 
 
 Iliissian waters. 
 
 becoming serious 
 
 States purcliasin^ 
 
 Continent. " W 
 
 suggestion that J 
 
 The minister 
 
 tated ; tlien, look 
 
 answered: "AH 
 
 lien belongs to Jj 
 
 tory which we o^^ 
 
INTERESTING CONVERSATION. 
 
 68 
 
 his Majesty the indulgence to remain here, and receive yon in 
 behalf of my associates/' 
 
 Mr. Seward thanked the minister, and expressed regret that he 
 had unwittingly chosen so unsuitable a day for his visit. 
 
 Sawa resumed : " I have heard of you much, and I know you 
 by character. I see your face now for the first time, and I am 
 happy to see it." 
 
 Mr. Seward answered, that it afforded him great pleasure to see 
 Japan, and become acquainted with its government. 
 
 The Minister : " I am happy that you have arrived safely after 
 60 long a journey. 1 see that you are very old and very hand- 
 some. You show high resolution in making so groat a voyage. 
 AH of us will be glad to avail ourselves of your large experience as 
 a statesman." 
 
 We are not a practical reporter, and therefore cannot detail the 
 long and interesting conversation which followed. It was highly 
 deferential on both sides. Some parts of it showed that the pro- 
 fession of politics is the same in Japan as in other countries. Sawa 
 was asking Mr. Seward's good offices to obtain a mediation by the 
 United States Government, to effect an adjustment with Russia of 
 the boundary-question which involves the title to the island of 
 Saghalien. Mr. Seward, hardly willing to assume so grave a 
 responsibility, tried to divert Sawa's attention from it, saying that 
 the United States and Russia were once near neighbors on the 
 other side of the Pacific Ocean, and that a dispute arose between 
 them concerninjr the riffht of American seamen to take fish in 
 Russian waters. The controversy, just at the moment when it was 
 becoming serious, was happily brought to an end by the United 
 States purchasing the entire Russian possessions on the American 
 Continent. "What would you think," he added, playfully, "of a 
 suggestion that Japan shall, in the same way, purchase Saghalien ? " 
 
 Tlie minister hesitated, cast his eyes on the floor, and medi- 
 tated; then, looking up with a smile of conscious satisfaction, he 
 answered : " All our histories agree that the entire island of Sagha- 
 lien belongs to Japan now. We could not buy from Russia terri- 
 tory which we own ourselves I " 
 
 r 1 
 
 f3 
 
 .J 
 
 tl 
 
 i 
 
 \ \ 
 
" That is so 
 arc like the pc 
 out that you e; 
 voii can buy it 
 During the 
 pagiio and cake 
 floor whenever 
 hour and a halt' 
 est in Yeddo w 
 plained the arn 
 then, stipulatin< 
 afternoon, the ]\ 
 leave by bo\\ in* 
 Yeddo is a s 
 iiiliabitcd distri( 
 ated to civil an< 
 districts, it is d 
 built in the sann 
 if is impossible 
 As Sa^ya hac 
 cious grounds w 
 ruled in Japan 
 granite, others 
 but in inipressi 
 ill the AVest. 
 tiiiniliar in "Wes 
 The monument 
 many lantern-b 
 commemorative 
 expressing the a 
 tributai structi 
 great taste. Ea 
 trained Intv- a si 
 By the side 
 with hideous de 
 forked winffs, fl 
 
 ( 
 
THE TOMBS OF THE TYCOONS. 
 
 d5 
 
 31 
 
 " That is so," replied Mr. Seward, " and, it' the pcc<plc of Japan 
 ure like the people of the United States, you will very soon find 
 out that you can no more sell your own territory to others than 
 you can buy it from them." 
 
 Durin<5 the conversation, tea and cigars, and afterward cham- 
 pagne and cakes, were served by attendants who crouched on the 
 floor whenever they received or executed a 'jonnnand. After an 
 hour and a half passed, Sawa mentioned the places of special inter- 
 est in Yeddo which he thought Mr. Seward ought to see, and ex- 
 ]>lained the arrangements which had been made for that purpose ; 
 then, stipidating a private interview with Mr. De Long for the 
 afternoon, the Minister of Foreign Aflairs rose and took a graceful 
 leave by bowing and shaking hands cordially with the whole party. 
 Yeddo is a singular combination of compactly-built and densely- 
 inhabited districts, with intervenhig gardens and groves, appropri- 
 ated to civil and religious uses. When in one of those po})ulou8 
 districts, it is difficult to conceive that the whole vast city is not 
 built in the same way ; and when in one of the deeply- shaded parks, 
 it is impossible to realize that you are in the heart of a great city. 
 As Sawa had suggested, we proceeded first to Sheba, the spa- 
 cious jrrounds which contain the colossal tombs of the Tycoons who 
 nded in Japan so many centuries. Some of the tombs are of 
 griinite, others of bronze. They surpass^ not only in costliness, 
 but in impressive ctfect, any imperial or royal modern cemetery 
 ill the "West. The sarcophagus, the obelisk, and the shaft, forms 
 familiar in AVestern monumental architecture, e(pially prevail here. 
 The monuments bear no epitaphs, but each is surrounded with 
 many lantern-bearing votive shrines, covered with inscriptions 
 commemorative of the virtues and achievements of the dead, and 
 expressing the affection and gratitude of the princes by whom the 
 tributai structures were erected. The domain is planted with 
 great taste. Each particular tree and shrub has been formed and 
 trained int^/ a shape suggestive of religious sentiment. 
 
 By the side of the cemetery stands the Temple of Sheba. "What 
 with hideous devices of the great red dragon of Japan, with his 
 forked wings, flaming mane, and powerful claws, the monstrous 
 
 « 1 
 
 * 
 
 1 
 
 ( ) 
 
 ' a 
 
 H 
 
i>C 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCIIIN CHINA. 
 
 TIMBS OF TIIK TYruONS. 
 
 transfunuiitioiiK of Buddha into lions rampaiit and rojirinjx, pea- 
 cocks ])roiid and stnittinf;, and sai^acious storks hta!kin<; and 
 p.ofkhosyini;, the interior of the temple is a weird eond)ination 
 of the mythie and the terrific. 
 
 Th()U<rh we have experienced neither menace nor insult, our 
 punrd is nevertheless indispensable to protect us apjainst intrusive 
 cin-iositv. The crowds jrather around, and follow us wherever we 
 aliirht and wherever wo ^o. Perhaps the escort mi^ht be needed 
 in case of sudden excitement or tumult, such as is liable t() hapi)en 
 in every ^reat city. 
 
 That was n(»t only a seasonable but a i)retty and pleasant break- 
 fast which Sir Harry and Lady I'arkes ^^ave us at the Uritish lega- 
 tion. Ft did not need the after illferiimemcut of native le<;erdemain. 
 'I'he zeal and ctHciency of Sir Ilarry Parkes, as minister, are well 
 known. Lady Parkes is not less distinguished fur the sj>irite(1 man- 
 ner in which she sustains him in his diplomatic studies and laborn. 
 
 AVe left the British leiration in com|)act ])roceasion, as we had 
 entered it, Mr. Seward and Mr. l)e Lon<j^ leadini; in a pony-carria^jr, 
 
J 
 
 
 
 ui 
 
 (/) 
 
 u. 
 
 in* 
 
 
 i 
 
 •" « 
 
 cl 
 
 r •» 
 
 I 
 
 M 
 
 51 
 
m 
 
 JAPAX, CniXA, AXn COCIIIX CHINA. 
 
 Mr. De Long drivins;. Three other carriages followed, attended by 
 the consul, and the whole surrounded Ly the escort. For a time the 
 carriasres in the rear had the forward one in full view, while itsoccu- 
 pants, frequently looking back, exchanged greetings. Mr. Seward 
 and Mr. De Long at length reached the high st^ne bridge, built 
 
 «ltlTI»ll I.UliATlU.y, YF.DUU. 
 
 across one of the canals, and famous in Japanese history as the 
 Xippon-Bas. There they became awari' that the other carriages 
 had fallen out ot sight. The street which intervened was filled 
 with holiday crowds, drawing huge, painted idols, mounted on low 
 
 trucks. These ( 
 
 missing carriage! 
 
 I'iage gesticulated 
 
 ^V^estern gentlem 
 
 i^^ a tight ; tlie h 
 
 '^pi-ang from the 
 
 liis long whip in 
 
 determined to effc 
 
 little pony-carriag 
 
 creasing native cr( 
 
 and left, found th 
 
 rods distant from 
 
 Hoor of a silk-mere 
 
 consul, sipping tej 
 
 elieapeningof Jaj)a 
 
 tlic minister pockc 
 
 most pacific manne 
 
 lound safe on the b; 
 
 uncertain what was 
 
 i>t tin's discovery, wi 
 
 proh'(jces in safety, 
 
 yielded to groimdk 
 
 main body of the ji 
 
 tlie occasion of tlic 
 
 trouble. 
 
 Ocfoler r)th.~A 
 tlio Ilamagoten and 
 feasted. The palace 
 
 luxuriously furnisiiec 
 pi-opriately called tlu 
 rated exclusively wit 
 tions, and so well exc 
 ail' stirred by their m 
 ot'C^entraiParkin X, 
 Tiicro are quaint b;u 
 
A GROUNDLESS ALARM. 
 
 69 
 
 trucks. These crowds were rapidly moving in the direction of the 
 missing carriages. Tlie guards who surrounded the forward car- 
 riage gesticulated, in a numner betokening alarm. Mr. Dc Long, a 
 Western gentleman, becoming excited, said to Mr. Seward, " There 
 is a tight; the ladies are attacked!" AVith this exclamation, he 
 sprang from the carriage and rushed back at the top of his speed, 
 his long whip in his left hand and a Colt's revolver in his right, 
 determined to effect a rescue. Mr. Seward remained sitting in the 
 little pony-carriage on the Nippon-Bas, attracting a constantly in- 
 creasing native crowd. Mr. De Long, scattering the natives right 
 and left, found the carriages in the clear, open street, a hundred 
 rods distant from the bridge and vacant, while, upon the matted 
 floor of a silk-merchant's " go-down," he found the ladies with the 
 consul, sipping tea, a ceremony always introductory here to the 
 cheapening of Jai)anese crapes and gauzes. Without saying a word, 
 the minister pocketed his revolver, and, lowering his whip in the 
 most pacific manner, walked quickly back to Mr. Seward, whom he 
 tbund safe on the bridge. Even at this hour of writing, it remains 
 uiucrtain what was the sentiment which overpowered Mr. De Long 
 at this discovery, whether it was one of satisfaction at finding his 
 pi'oii'<jves in safety, or of mortification at having so impulsively 
 yielded to groundless alarm. Neither the advance-guard, nor the 
 main body of the procession, has been able to discover what was 
 the occasion of the Japanese excitement which produced so much 
 trouble. 
 
 
 51 
 
 » 
 
 9- 
 
 R « 
 
 Oofoher Hh. — A busy day, but less eventful. We have visited 
 the llamagoton and its palace, where Mr. Seward was to have been 
 feasted. The palace, built and ornamented in Japanese style, is 
 luxuriously furnished in the European. One of tiie saloons is ap- 
 pro])riately called the Cool -room, its walls and ceilings being deco- 
 rated exclusively with huge ]>icturcd fans, in many different posi- 
 tidus, and so well executed that you might fancy that you feel the 
 air stirrcil by their motion. The grounds are as extensive as those 
 of (Central Park in New York, and not less elaborately embellished. 
 There are quaint bamboo summer-houses, with j)retty scroll roofs, 
 
 11. 
 
covered with 
 houses, standi 
 Tliere are gro^ 
 Stately siiade 
 casties, and si 
 the sniootli ba 
 From the 
 wonderingly e 
 have seen. Si 
 far from beiiiir 
 temple, a bowh 
 has been made, 
 cved with a sto' 
 and falls with 
 look with reve; 
 the other browi; 
 c-aparJHoned, ofc 
 in perpetual rea* 
 beasts are maiiit; 
 tics in Jaj)an, as 
 expedients for r 
 Osalcasa arc ren 
 entertainments, 
 A dinner was 
 of Yeddo. Lea\ 
 and our boots at 
 Ii!i,dily-polis]ied 
 ilo'/AHi chambers 
 tlie clean matter 
 ptM-son. It was ( 
 ^'iiall covers. T. 
 •'•"d piping hot. 
 ^«'y and distaste 
 small, shallow, rw 
 tea-saueers. Onr 
 eleven pretty gh 
 
THE JAPANESE DELMONICO'S. 
 
 n 
 
 covered with hundreds of '-reepors, Icucwn to us only in onr ^'"^on- 
 houses, standing in *ho niidtit oi' lakes well stocked with gold-fish. 
 There are groves of mulberries, chestnuts, persimmons, and oranges. 
 Stately shade-trees, cut and twisted into the shapes of animals, 
 castles, and ships, crown hundreds of high knolls which overlook 
 the smooth bay of Yeddo. 
 
 From the Ilamagoten, we drove to old Osakasa, where we 
 wonderingly examined a temple which surpasses all the others wo 
 have seen. Superstition, though abating in Japan, is nevertheless 
 far from being extinct. They show at Sheba, in the court of the 
 temple, a bowlder, in tho top of which a deep, smooth, circular basin 
 has been made, which is tilled with water, and kept carefully cov- 
 ered with a stone lid. It is an accepted belief that this water rises 
 and falls with the ocean-tide. At Osakasa we were required to 
 look with reverence upon two native ponies (one cream-colored, 
 the other brown), both nicely trimmed and groomed, and superbly 
 caparirfoned, occupying apartments neat as a parlor. They remain 
 In perpetual readiness for t!ie eipiestrian exercises of the gods. The 
 beasts are maintained by pious contributions of pilgrims. Ecclesias- 
 tics in Ja{)an, as sometimes they do elsewhere, resort to <piostionable 
 expedients for raising money. The highly-ornamented grounds of 
 Osakasa are rented for tea-houses, theatrical exhibitions, jugglers' 
 entertainments, and other popular amusements. 
 
 A dinner was ordered for us at a tea-house— tho " Delmonieo's" 
 of Yeddo. Leaving our carriages with the escort in the stn eta, 
 and our boots at tho door, we were ushered ui» a very steep, hut 
 highly-polished wooden staircase into a chamber, . rather a 
 doziMi chambers divided by sliding-doors. Here we sat down on 
 tho clean matted floor. A lacquered table was set before eacli 
 person. It was eight or ten inches high, and largo enough for two 
 suiall covers. Tea in little cups without saucers wis served, clear, 
 and piping hot. After the tea, saki, a liquor distilled from rice, 
 fiery and distasteful, was jioured from a porcelain vase into such 
 small, shallow, red, lacquered vessels as we sometimes mistake for 
 tea-saucers. Our hostess, a middle-ftgcd matron, was assisted by 
 eleven pretty girls, their ages arying from twelv* to sixteen. 
 
 11 
 
 
 
72 JAPAN, cniNA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 These attendants, by the elegance of their costume and abundance 
 of white cosmetics, had enhanced their beauty to the degree that, 
 in Oriental speech, it would be said that '- every one of them was a 
 temptation to the servants of God." One of them went down on 
 her knees beside each guest, and remained there until it was time 
 to bring on, with the tiniest of delicate hands, a new course. Their 
 actions were graceful and modest, thci- voices bird-like. They 
 manifested childish delight at every compliment we gave them, and 
 their pleasure seemed to rise to ecstasy when permitted to examine 
 our watches, tans, parasols and other articles of dress or ornament. 
 
 
 The dinne 
 
 There was a ' 
 
 slices with hors 
 
 rice, and man 
 
 These courses i 
 
 tionery. /Said 
 
 ceremony. Al 
 
 not analyze. E) 
 
 the entertainmc 
 
 instrument, in i 
 
 played and san^ 
 
 airs were not \ 
 
 and monotonoi 
 
 could find no m 
 
 ticulation were 
 
 rules of the ba 
 
 long and heavy 
 
 and most of the 
 
 we left this " h 
 
 us from the bai 
 
 Their grateful 
 
 their soft ami jji 
 
 We needed 
 
 streets, now din 
 
 our dragoons w 
 
 furiously tbrwar 
 
 myriads of bats 
 
 returning from 
 
 amusements, inl 
 
 
 JAPANESE MUBICIAV. 
 
A SELF-DENYING OIIDIXAXCE. 
 
 73 
 
 The dinner, however, was riither a selt-tlcnying ordinance. 
 Tliere was a vegetable soup flavored with soy^ raw iish in thin 
 shces with horse-radish, petty bits of game, various preparations ot 
 rice, and many dishes whose composition was unascertainable. 
 These courses were intermingled with sweetened fruits and confec- 
 tionery. Sahi was ottered with every course, and always witii great 
 ceremony. All the dishes had one connnon flavor, which we could 
 not analyze. Even the sugar had this raw, indescribable taste. After 
 the entertainment, the girls, sitting on the floor, each with a rude 
 instrument, in form a compromise between the banjo and the guitar, 
 played and sang, and at intervals rose and danced. Though the 
 airs were not without melody and harmony, they were so crude 
 and monotonous that the highest expert in the " heavenly art '' 
 could find no musical meaning in them. The posturing and ges- 
 ticulation were artistic, though the dancing was conducted on no 
 rules of the ballet. Great skill was displayed in the dance, the 
 long and heavy dresses of the performers always covering the feet, 
 and most of the time even the hands. Night overtook us before 
 we left this "haunt of delight," and the performers accompanied 
 us from the baiupieting-floor to our carriages in the dark street. 
 Their grateful gestures and speaking smiles were intelligible, though 
 their soft and gentle words were not. 
 
 We needed to drive with much care through the crowded 
 streets, now dimly lighted with an occasional paper lantern. But 
 our dragoons were men "dressed in brief authority;" they dashed 
 furiously tbrvvard, and, with shrieking shouts and screams, startling 
 myriads of bats from the thatched roofs, they drove the people, 
 returning from their daily occupations, or listening to theatrical 
 amusements, into the open doors or alleys. 
 
 CprS 
 
 Octoher G^A. — The day began at Yeddo with an aiiJience given 
 by Mr. Seward, at the consulate. The visitors were Japanese who 
 have ac(piired some knowledge of foreign nations, Mr. Seward 
 inquired for the Tycoon's ambassadors, Ono Tomogoro and "Mats-i 
 moto Judaiyii, with whom he had negotiated in Washington. But 
 there has been a revolution. The Mikado, then onlr a nominal 
 
 
74 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 sovereign, is now absolute at tlic castle. The Tycoon is a prisoner 
 of state ; Ono Touiogoro is also a prisoner, nijbody knows where, 
 and Matsnioto Judaiyu is a fugitive — some say at {Shanghai, others 
 at San Francisco. It seems to suri)ass Japanese comprehension 
 that a new administration of the (.Jovernment of the United States 
 has come in, and that Mr. Seward has gone out of place without 
 hjsing his head or public consideration. 
 
 AVhile Mr. Seward was holding his audience, the ladies shopjied. 
 The Japanese artisans contrive to produce exquisite articles of 
 taste and vertu from cheap nuiterials, and with an inlinile.simal 
 proportion of the precious metals. Their modern ])orcclaln is 
 inferior to the Chinese, but they excel in ornamental lacquer-work 
 and fans of all sorts. Their designs in bronze are exceedingly 
 curious, but their execution interior to that of Europeans. In 
 jiainting they are unsurpassed in the imitation of all forms of animal 
 life. With a keen sense of the ludicrous, they may yet come to be 
 employed as caricaturists in our j)residential elections ! 
 
 There is no special manufacture at Yeddo. It is an emporium 
 for the whole em])ire. We have found it impossible to ascertain 
 the districts in which particular classes of articles are made. The 
 shops are small and closely packed with wares. The indilference 
 assumed by the merchants would be provoking, if it were not for 
 t^ioir extreme ])oliteness. It the buyer means to obtain a fair bar- 
 gain, he must aft'ect equal reserve and indifference. The entire 
 family look on, half a dozen men and three or four women busying 
 themselves in every sale. Indeed, the house and the shop are one. 
 Four feet square of matting in the centre of the shop is the common 
 dining-room and bedroom. Must they not eat and sleep by turns r 
 
 The Ignited States minister was recalled to Yokohama last 
 night. Captain Bachelor put the reins of two fine American horses 
 into our hands, to drive in a light New-England pliaeton down the 
 Tokaido to Yokohama. i\[i-. KandMll conveyed the other ladies in a 
 carriage drawn by Mr. Dc Long's mottled native ponies. Each car- 
 riage was attended by two hettos, quick-footed boys, whose service is 
 to run like coach-dogs by the side of horse or carriage, warning 
 everybody out of the way, and they are ready to seize and hold 
 
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 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 the horsea at every st(>pi)in«,'-i)hice, or in any ease of alarm. The 
 road was literally erowded, and hilarity and merriment displayed 
 themselves on all sides. The erowds were labyrinthian. The 
 aetivity and sungs of the hettos, and the ejaeulatiuns and impreca- 
 tions of our mounted guard, with the clangor of their arms, made 
 our rapid drive a very exciting one, while a bracing air with genial 
 sunshine was exhilarating. But all pleasures have their draw- 
 backs. Neither the hettos nor the dragoons were capable of under- 
 stauding our retjuests or renuuistrances. They wanted rest at 
 every tea-house, or, what was the same thing, they sought favor at 
 the tea-houses by bringing us up at the doors. The guard dis- 
 mounted, and, with the hettoSy took the refreshments })rofusely of- 
 fered them, while we, though declining any, were obliged to wait. 
 "When we had made twelve miles, half the distance to Yokohama, 
 we brouglit up at a hostelry, with a stable. Our horses were taken 
 out to be fed and groouiod. From open windows in an upper 
 chamber we saw in the court a huge brass caldron sunk in the 
 ground over an oven. The horses were brouglit to it. Four 
 grooms took possession of each horse, and rubbed him thoroughly 
 from head to hoof with wisps of straw dripping with hot water, and 
 afterward dried him with as much care as the human [)atient re- 
 ceives when he comes out of a Turkish bath. We improved the 
 time by a Japanese dinner, which, when we were completely sur- 
 feited, we left unfinished, very much to the disaj^pointment of the 
 music-girls. Once more on the road, we indulged a faint hope 
 of reaching Yokohama before midnight. AV^e came, after three or 
 four miles, to the bank of a river twenty rods wide. There was one 
 rough flat-boat on the other side, worked by an endless chain. We 
 awaited its tedious arrival aiul delivery of passengers multitudinous 
 and various. Then our beasts were led separately into the boat 
 and crossed. It returned to our shore, and, as in the riddle of the 
 fox, goose and ])eck of corn, took the dragoons and the carriages. 
 ** Last came joy's ecstatic trial." AVe hurried on board, and, reach- 
 ing the opposite bank, found the vehicles there, but not the horses. 
 We were obliged to walk forward a (piarter of a mile, to a pLace 
 where the hettos and cavalry were taking tea and smoking, as if they 
 
ARHIVAL AT YOKOHAMA. 
 
 77 
 
 had fasted the wliolo day. Then they went back and brought uj) 
 the iin})edinienta. A l)riin:int, full-orbed luoou expanded into 
 majestic size every object tliat we passed, and lit up the waters of 
 tiie bay as we a|'})roached Kan i;:fawa. Mr. De Louie's native ponies, 
 ai'ter fretpiently giving out on the way, fell in climbing the sharp, 
 high hill, and it taxed our own horsemanship to get over this dif- 
 ficult part oi' the road. The other carriage was drawn over the 
 hill by tl bettoa and drag(jons, and the i)onies were then re- 
 attached. Meantime hettos and dragoons lighted each his varie- 
 gated paper lantern. They made the suburban streets of Yoko- 
 hama resound with vociferous shouts, thus exciting the astonish- 
 ment and perhaps the fears of this inoffensive people. We arrived 
 at Mr. Walsh's hospitable gate, much to the satisfaction of our 
 friends within, who, owing to the lateness of the hour, had become 
 apprehensive for our safety. 
 
 / " 
 
 Steamship New Yorh^ of the Coad of Japan ^ October Wi. — We 
 have embarked, without liaving had time on shore to record the 
 latest and most striking incidents of our visit at Yokohama. Mr. 
 Seward was not allowed to leave Japan without a marlced dem- 
 onstration from the government, as well as an exi)ressi()n of 
 rcj^i^jct from the foreign residents. On our return from Yeddo, on 
 tlie Gth, he received an invitation to an audience of the Mikado. 
 This ceremony is usually distinguished by jn'ocrastinations and 
 formalities even more tedious than in European courts. The time 
 being shortened, however, in this case, the invitation was accepted. 
 Yesterday morning, we were awakened from slee]i, which was quite 
 too short after our drive on the previous day, by an infinite 
 clatter of mechanics, u])holsterers, and decorators, who were engaged 
 in constructing with canvas, all around Mr. Walsh's very large 
 house, a broad suite of saloons, dancing-halls, waiting-rooms and 
 pupper-rooms. The whole was completed during the day, decorated 
 with flags and tropical shrubbery, and flowers, and softly lighted by 
 fanciful lanterns. The band of the German naval squadron played 
 " Hail Columbia," and the ball was opened at ten o'clock. All 
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 Mr. Sliepherd, and 
 
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 Yeddo. At eiglit c 
 
 Japanese costume, 
 
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 At nine o'clock 
 an enlarged mountc 
 design or not, throi 
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 daimios who, under 
 reside during alternj 
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 kings of Europe who 
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 been a ferocious cre^\ 
 
INTERVIEW WITH THE MIKADO. 
 
 ro 
 
 officers of the United States and other nations, and foreign resi- 
 dents. Of course, not one Japanese of either sex was there, for, as 
 we have before intimated, there is no social intermingling of the two 
 populations. Caste and race are unrelenting antagonists to univer- 
 sal civilization. This beautiful ball crowned most gracefully the 
 generous hospitalities of which we were recipients during our so- 
 journ with Mr. and Mrs. Walsh. 
 
 At two o'clock yesterday morning, while the merry dance was 
 yet going on. Captain Bachelor brought to the wharf, in front of 
 Mr. AValsh's compound, then so highly illuminated, a little steam- 
 yacht and received Mr. Seward on board, whO;, against all remon- 
 strance, persisted in keeping his engagement, although in the midst 
 of a driving wind and rain. lie was accompanied by Mr. De Long^ 
 Mr. Sliepherd, and Mr. Walsh, and at six o'clock, after ground- 
 ing three or four times on the way, they were safely landed at 
 Yeddo. At eight o'clock, Mr. Ishtabashi appeared in rich ofiicial 
 Japanese costume, and, profoundly bowing, said, with measured 
 words: "I am waiting for the honor of conducting Mr. Seward to 
 tlic great castle, where he will be received by his Majesty the Tenno ;. 
 not in the customary official manner, but in a private audience, as 
 an expression of personal respect and friendship, I am particularly 
 commanded to make this explanation of the character of the pro- 
 posed audience." 
 
 At nine o'clock the party proceeded in two carriages, witb 
 an enlarged mounted escort. Tliey were conducted, whether by 
 design or not, through streets bordered by immense walled en- 
 closures, which are the strongholds and barracks of the several 
 daimios who, under the Tycoon's administration, were required to 
 reside during alternate periods, with their armed retainers, at the- 
 capital. The discontinuance of this usage, since the restoration of 
 the Mikado, is a singular illustration of the same advance toward 
 a more popular system of government which was made by the 
 kings of Europe when they reduced the feudal barons to subjection. 
 The barracks vacated by the daimios' soldiers are now occupied by 
 imperial battalions. The feudal soldiers of the Tycoon must have 
 boen a ferocious crew, if they were more savage than these rough 
 
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80 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 and ill-looking guards of the Tenno. The citadel, called " The Great 
 Castle," crowns an eminence in the centre of the city. It is a triple 
 fortification, nine miles in circumference, consisting of three con- 
 centric forts, each by itself complete, with rampart, inner embank- 
 ment, ditch, bastion and glacis, parapet and double gates. The 
 outer fort stands on a level with the plain, the next higher, and the 
 central one higher still, overlooking the country and the sea. The 
 walls of each are fifty feet high, built of granite blocks, more mas- 
 sive than those of the Eip-Raps, oil' Old Point Comfort. The impe- 
 rial palace is in the centre of the inner fort. It is a low structure, 
 differing from the temples and monasteries which we have before 
 described, not in niaterial or style of architecture, but in the ar- 
 rangement of its apartments. The area which surrounds it is 
 tastefully planted and adorned with lawns, winding gravelled 
 walks, small lakes, and what we would call summer-houses, and 
 tenements for attendants and servants. The areas of the other two 
 fortifications are similarly embellished. In any past stage of mili- 
 tary science, the citadel must have been impregnable. "We cannot 
 learn its history. 
 
 AVlicn Mr. Seward and his friends had reached the gates of the 
 outer fort, they were received with a salute at each of the double 
 portals, and were permitted to pass through in carriages to the 
 gates of the second. They were received here with similar hon- 
 ors, and passed to the gates of the tliird. Entering these with 
 salutes as before, they were received by one of the eight Ministers 
 of Foreign Aftairs, who, having requested them to dismiss their 
 carriages, conducted them, with much obeisance, across the lawns 
 to a sheltered place, where they rested on lacque/ stools. Here a 
 second Minister of Foreign Aflfiiirs joined the party, and, making 
 new compliments, led them to seats on the shore of a small lake. 
 Here the minister informed Mr. Seward that Mr. Walsh, being an 
 unofficial gentleman, could proceed no farther, and that the same 
 rule excluded Freeman. They stopped. At this juncture Sawa, 
 chief Minister of Foreign Affairs, met Mr. Seward, and conducted 
 him to a summer-house more spacious than the others, which over- 
 looks a larger and deeper lake. On the way thither, he obtained a 
 
INTERVIEW WITH THE MIKADO. 
 
 81 
 
 view of a part of the imperial stud. A rail twelve or fifteen feet 
 long is fixed three feet above the ground, on supports. Several 
 iron-gray Japanese ponies, unattended by grooms, stood at this rail, 
 in readiness for his Majesty's use at the close of the proposed audi- 
 ence. When the party had arrived at the summer-house, the prime- 
 minister, the Chief Minister of Finance and the heads of the other 
 departments, were found waiting, and they were severally presented 
 by Sawa to Mr. Seward, The whole party then sat down at an 
 oblong table, the prime-minister presiding, and Mr. Seward and the 
 other visitors on his left hand, the Japanese ministers on his right. 
 The prime-minister first, and after him each of his associates, ad- 
 dressed Mr. Seward in words of courteous welcome, to which he 
 briefly replied. A pleasant conversation now ensued, during which 
 tea, cakes, confectionery, cigars and champagne, were tMccessively 
 brought in by attendants, who prostrated themselves on the ground 
 at every ofier of their service. The prime-minister then, in a very 
 direct but most courteous way, said to Mr. Seward : " It is thf" 
 custom of his Majesty the Tenno to receive official visits upon busi 
 ness affairs in an edifice which is built for that express public pur- 
 pose, and called among us a court ; but his Majesty on this occasion 
 recognizes you as a special friend of Japan, and a man devoted to 
 the welfare of all nations, and he therefore proposes, by way of 
 showing his high respec. for you, to receive you, not at a public 
 court, but in a private lodge of his own, to which he will come 
 down fi'om his palace to meet you." 
 
 Mr. Seward answered that he appreciated his Majesty's conde- 
 scension and kindness. "While this conversation was going on, 
 Mr. Seward, looking through an open window, saw at a long dis- 
 tance his friend Mr. Walsh, and Freeman, walking within the pre- 
 cinct which had been appointed them. Presently, an officer came 
 hurriedly into the presence of the grave international council at the 
 summer-house, and announced an intrusion. The prime-minister, 
 upon Mr. Seward's explanation, directed that tlie supposed eaves- 
 droppers should not be interfered with, but they must come no 
 farther. 
 
 When half sn hour had passed, a chamberlain announced his 
 
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S2 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 Majesty's arrival at the summer-house. Sawa and Ishtabasln re- 
 mained with Mr. Seward ; all the other ministers took leave to join 
 the Mikado. A final summons came to Sawa ; he rose and con- 
 ducted the party some distance along a smooth, narrow walk, till 
 they came to a high, shaded knoll, conversing by the way. The 
 minister and Ishtabaslii now stopped, and, making lov/ genu- 
 flections, announced, in subdued and almost Avhispering tones, that 
 his Majesty was to be in a summer-house directly behind this hill. 
 After this, there was no word spoken. When they had gone round 
 the knoll, the lodge which now contained the heaven-derived Maj- 
 esty ' ipan came to view. It stands five feet above the ground, is 
 one story high, and consists of four square rooms of equal size, Avith 
 sliding partitions, the ceilings six feet high, and the whole building 
 surrounded by a veranda. All the rooms were thrown open, and 
 were without furniture. The visitors entered the apartment, which 
 was at their left, and, looking directly forward, saw only Ishtabaslii 
 surrounded by a crowd of official persons, all crouched on the floor. 
 Having reached the exact centre of the room, Mr. Seward was 
 requested to turn to the right. He did this without changing his 
 place. The United States minister and the consul stood at his right 
 iiand. In this position he directly confronted the Mikado, m'Iio was 
 sittin": on a throne raised on a dais two feet above the floor. The 
 throne :s a large arm-chair, apparently of burnished gold, not difi'er- 
 43nt in form or ornamert I'rom the thrones which are used on cere- 
 monial occasions in European courts. All the cabinet ministers 
 and many other officials had arranged themselves below the dais, 
 and behind and around the throne. The Mikado was dressed in a 
 voluminous robe of re.ldish-brown brocade, which covered his whole 
 person. His head-dress differed in fashion from that which was 
 worn by Sawa in our audience with him, only in this, that a kind 
 of curved projecting prong Avas attached to the boat-shaped cap, 
 and bent upward, the corresponding appurtenance of the minister's 
 cap being shorter, and bent downward. What with the elevation 
 of the dais, and the height of his elongated cap, the emperor's per- 
 son, though in a sitting posture, seemed to stretch from the floor 
 ±0 the ceiling. His appearance in that flowing costume, surrounded 
 
 from a translatio 
 
INTERVIEW WITH THE MIKADO. 
 
 8'S 
 
 by a mass of ministers and courtiers, enveloped in variegated and 
 equally redundant silken folds, resting on the floor, reminded Mr. 
 Seward of some of the efforts in mythc'ogy to represent a deity 
 sitting in the clouds. His dark countenance is neither unintelligent 
 nor particularly expressive. He was motionless as a statue. He 
 held a sceptre in his right hand, and at his left side wore one richly- 
 ornamented, straight s\>crd. What the Mikado and his court 
 thought of the costumes of his visitors, with their uncovered heads, 
 square, swallow-tailed dress-coats, tight white cravats, tighter panta- 
 loons, and stiff, black boots, we shall never know. Who shall pro- 
 nounce between nations in matters of costume ? The Mikado raised 
 his sceptre, and the prime-minister, kneeling, then announced to 
 the United States minister, by the aid of Ishtabashi, also kneeling, 
 that lie might speak. Mr. De Long advanced a step or two, and, 
 bowing three several times, said : " I hope I find your Majesty in 
 good health." 
 
 The prime-minister, kneeling again, presented to the Mikado a 
 written paper, open, and as large as a sheet of foolscap. The Em- 
 peror, after looking at its contents, touched it with his sceptre. 
 The prime-minister read it aloud in Japanese. Ishtabashi, again 
 kneeling, brought his head to the floor, and, then raising it, read, 
 from a translation which lay before him on the floor, his Majesty's 
 gracious answer : " I am very well ; I am glad to see you here." 
 
 Thereupon Mr. De Long, thus rcassure(,l, said in a distinct voice, 
 worthy of a Western orator as he is : 
 
 " I have the honor to present to your Majesty, William H. Sew- 
 ard, a citizen of the United States. Your Majesty having been 
 pleased to invite him to this audience, it is unnecessai*y for me to 
 speak of the achievements or of the character of this eminent Ameri- 
 can statesman." 
 
 The interpreter, having rendered this speech into Japanese, 
 Mr, De Long resumed his place. In accordance with an intima- 
 tion from the prime-minister, Mr. Seward now advanced, and 
 said : " I am deeply impressed by this gracious reception by the 
 sovereign, at the capital of this great, populous, and emulous em- 
 pire. I desire to express earnest wishes for your Majesty's per- 
 
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84 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 sonal health and happiness, and for the peace, welftire, and pros- 
 perity of Japan." 
 
 The prime-minister held before his Majesty another paper, 
 which, being read by him, was then rendered by the interpreter as 
 follows : 
 
 " I am glad to see you now for the first time. I congratulate 
 you on your safe arrival here, after the very long journey you have 
 made. The great experience which you have had must enable you 
 to give me important information and advice how to promote the 
 friendship that happily exists between your country and my own. 
 If you Avould please to communicate any thing in that way, you are 
 requested to make it known to my prime-minister, and I invite you 
 to express yourself frankly and without reserve." 
 
 Mr. Seward replied : " I thank your Majesty for this gracious 
 permission to confer with the prime-minister on international 
 affairs. A citizen of the United States, I am visiting Japan and 
 the adjacent countries on the Pacific coast, as a traveller and ob- 
 server. I wear no ofiicial character, and I bring no message. The 
 President, however, and all my countrymen, will expect me not to 
 leave any thing undone which I can do, to promote a happy under- 
 standing between those countries and the United States, as well as 
 also the advancement of civilization in both hemispheres. "With 
 this view, I shall, with great pleasure, avail myself of the privileges 
 v/hich your Majesty has granted me." 
 
 The Empeior, with his entire court, remained in place until the 
 visitors had retired, after an exchange of salutations. They wore 
 conducted back to the summer-house. All the Japanese ministers 
 soon cntei'ed and resumed their places around the table. Eefresli- 
 ments were served, and Mr. Seward was informed that his audience 
 was the first occasion on which the Mikado has completely unveiled 
 himself to a visitor. ITot only the prime-minister, but all his asso- 
 ciates, discussed with Mr. Seward at much length the political re- 
 lations of Japan with foreign powers. The minister desired him 
 to take notice that the government, in dealing with the vanquished 
 Tycoon's party in Japan, at the close of the late revolution, liad 
 copied the example of toleration given them by the United States. 
 
INTERVIEW WITH THE MIKADO. 
 
 85 
 
 They carefully inquired concerning the machinery employed in the 
 United States in taking the decennial census, and also the details 
 of the system of collecting and disbursing public revenues. 
 
 They wrote a letter on the spot, addressed to their ambassador at 
 Peking, and, delivering it to Mr. Seward, solicited his aid of their 
 interest at that court. Mr. Seward was deeply impressed on two 
 points : First, that although the administration of justice in Japan 
 is conducted in a manner widely different from that of the Western 
 nations, yet that the public mind entertains not the least distrust 
 of its impartiality. Second, that the administration of the Mikado 
 is sincerely emulous and progressive. Again, if there is any danger 
 ill the near future, it will arise, not from a retarding, but from a 
 more rapid acceptance by the government of "Western ideas and 
 sentiments, than a people so rude can at once understand. 
 
 The ministers had assigned the whole day for the high consnlta- 
 tion. They expressed much regret when Mr. Seward announced 
 that he v*-as obliged to depart at the earliest moment for Yokohama, 
 where the steamer was waiting. Waiving invitations to examine 
 the citadel and the imperial palace and grounds, Mr. Seward re- 
 turned to the Consulate, and thence proceeded down the bay, 
 directly to this steamer, bound for Iliogo. 
 
 A box followed hini which contained all the cake. Cruit, and con- 
 fectionery, which remained from the entertaini lent at the Castle. 
 The ladies noticed that t]ie varieties of cakes were not merely col- 
 ored externally, but through and through — crimson, yellow, purple, 
 and indigo. The supply £ufficient for the voyage to Shanghai. 
 
 It ought not to mar the effect of the Mikado's >^.ourtesy, if we 
 state that the audience, in its minutest details, W2.d projected and 
 perfected in the Japanese cabinet, with the concurrence of Mr. De 
 Long. All European governments, and even tbat of the United 
 States, adopt a similar precaution in regard to official executive 
 audiences. 
 
 Japan lias especial reasons for prudence. The empire is a soli- 
 tary planet, that has remained stationary for centuries, until now it 
 is suddenly brought into contact with constellations which, whfle 
 they shed a dazzling light, continually threaten destnictive collisions- 
 
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CHAPTER III. 
 
 FROM YEDDO TO SHANGHAI. 
 
 Hiogo. — The Place of Massacre. — A Japanese Steamer. — The Gulf of Osaka. — A Harem 
 on a Pie-nio. — The City of Osaka. — Tlie Tycoon's Castle. — Japanese Troops. — 
 Nagasaki. — Beautiful Scenery. — Christians of Naga.'aki. — Japanese Character. — 
 Departure for China. — Concluding Reflections on Japan. 
 
 Iliogo (Kobe)^ Mondaij, October 10th. — A voyage of thirty-six 
 hours, in which night and rain have prevented nil observation, has 
 brought us to this southeastern port on the island of Niplion. The 
 United States Consul, Mr. Stewart, and the agent of the Pacific 
 Mail Line, came on board in the early morning. They were sur- 
 prised when Mr. Seward pointed out to them with minuteness and 
 accuracy the several places of interest in the port. " This," he said 
 " is the European settlement, that place behind it the native town 
 of Iliogo : the road which divides them is the one on which tlic 
 Mikado's army was moving northward at the time when it fired 
 upon and massacred the foreigners in 1804 : this is the field through 
 which the foreigners were pursued by the Japanese soldiers on that 
 occasion : it was in the bay here on our right that the natives 
 massacred the French naval surveying party in their boats : was 
 it not in the building which I see on that hill that the Mikado's 
 officers, who were condemned to death for those atrocious outrages, 
 committed hari-hari, and that the foreign ministers interposed 
 after seventeen such self-executions, and said, '■ It is enough ? ' On 
 this knoll is the place where the offenders were buried." 
 
 The ottioial reports of those painful transactions which Mr. Yan 
 
 
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88 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 Valkenbiirgh, the United States Minister, made to tlie Department 
 of State, liad left this distinct and inolface.iblo impression on Mr. 
 Seward'a mind. It is five years since those massacres occurred. 
 Wo now find that the people, obeying the instinct of nationality, 
 have erected a monument over the grave of each of those victini.s, 
 and on that monument have recorded his voluntary death as an ad 
 of civil and religious martyrdom. So true to country and to God 
 are the impulses of our common nature everywhere. 
 
 Iliogo is twenty miles distant from Osaka, and bears the same 
 relation to that great southern metropolis of Japan that Yokohaniii 
 bears to the central one of Ycddo. Iliogo, opened quite recently 
 to foreign commerce, is not especially successful. Since the opening 
 of Japan, the population of Yeddo has been reduced from three 
 millions to one million, chiefly by removals to Yokohama. On tlio 
 contrary, Osaka has not materially declined, nor has Iliogo consid- 
 erably increased. The foreign population of Iliogo is at most two 
 hundred. The importance of its harbor is duo to its double advan- 
 tages as a port of Osaka and a gateway to the Inland Sea of Japan. 
 
 October Wtli. — We dined yesterday with Mr. Senter's amialilc 
 family, and slept in the Japanese bungalow, now occupied as the 
 Consulate, by the side of its pretty lotus-garden. Although the 
 lotus has been held sacred from time immemorial as a divine 
 symbol throughout the whole East, it is nevertheless indigenous 
 only in tropical and semi-tropical climates. We now for the first 
 time see in perfection on its native soil this magnificent flower, of 
 which, " whosoever eateth wishes never again to depart, nor to see 
 his native country, if it groweth not there." 
 
 Here the intelligent Japanese governor passed two hours with 
 Mr. Seward, explaining the system of provincial administration, 
 which seems very effective. He learns also that education of all 
 classes is compulsory, and that the schools are maintained by taxa- 
 tion, which is remitted in behalf of the poor. 
 
 We went, this morning, on board a small coasting steamer, 
 which was built in the United States for Japanese owners, and is 
 managed exclusively by natives. The gulf of Osaka has pictu- 
 
 resque shores, tl 
 G(\^Q. Tlie slo] 
 niits are i)ianted 
 on the higljest p 
 
 
 ■-^;"-i.-=,S 
 
 from gilded roofs, 
 J''tpan is a masculi 
 native jealousy of tl 
 
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TKMI'LK C)F TIIK MOON. 
 
 80 
 
 rcsqiic shores, tliicl.ly studded with villap!;('S, chisterinf? at the waterV 
 edge. The slopni<^ hills are terraced und irrigated, and their smn- 
 niits are planted with forests. The Templq of the Moon, standing 
 on the highest peak of the mountain, reflected the morning sunlight 
 
 TEMI'LK AT OSAKA. 
 
 from gilded roofs, resting on snow-white cohimns. The moon in 
 Japan is a masculine deity. Is this exceptional idea due to the 
 native jealousy of the gentle sex ? Or is it owing to the fact that 
 
 dk- 
 
 M 1 
 
 
 
 
90 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 it is a man's face and not a woman's that is seen in that benignanr 
 orb ? Quien sabe ? 
 
 It is the bar at Osaka which forces the ocean-trade to a harbor 
 so distant as Hiogo. Our countryman, Admiral Bell, lost his life 
 two years ago, in sounding it. Our steamer could not cross, though 
 drawing only four feot. 
 
 Osaka, as early as the sixteenth century, became a great com- 
 mercial city. Its temples, surpassing those of Yeddo in number, 
 vie with those of spiritual Miako. As we approached the bar, we 
 saw a gay Japanese yacht, of perhaps two hundred and fifty tons, 
 moving slowly out to se-^. under a light wind. The sails were 
 quaint, like the form of the vessel they impelled, which was brilliant 
 with scarlet and blue pniut and gilding. A daimio sat at the stern 
 on the upper deck, gorgeously arrayed in silks and lacquer, sur- 
 rounded by numerous retainers and a bevy of highly-painted and 
 elegantly-dressed young women, who were entertaining him Avith 
 a concert of guitars, flutes, and drums. Manifestly the daimio was 
 giving his harem a picnic. 
 
 We were transferred here to a small, neat, flat-bottomed bamboo 
 barge, with a canopy overhead and a deck covered with mats, iu 
 which we floated over the bar, and up to the great sea-wall of the 
 city. 
 
 The confluence of two xivers with the sea makes the harbor of 
 Osaka, like that of Charleston. The rivers are formed into canals, 
 and connected at convenient intervals by cross-canals. Venic(3 is 
 not more noticeable for its gondolas and barges, nor Amsterdam 
 for its pleasure-boats, than Osaka for its picturesque shallops cov- 
 ered with bright awnings of various colors. It is perhaps from 
 the anmsements of the regatta that the women in Osaka have ac- 
 quired the fame of being the prettiest in the empire. Time served 
 U3 to traverse only three or four of the thirty or forty canals, hut 
 suflScient to enable us to reach the more important monuments and 
 institutions of the metropolis, to notice the regularity of the streets, 
 the grace and lightness of the hundred cedar bridges, and to wonder 
 at the immense traffic carried on by families who dwell in the 
 vessels they navigate. The wealth and enterprise of Japan belDg 
 
 in the southe 
 emporium. 
 
 While, for 
 
 a part of each 
 
 litical capital, i 
 
 commercial Os 
 
 palaces, witJi si 
 
 ceived dieir rei 
 
 Between th 
 
 dwellings, two 
 
 
 ^^SXi^tL' 
 
 tfeSE^is^ 
 
 The lower story 
 tl>e tides and flooj 
 •IS elsewhere in 
 The nudity, so frel 
 and offensive. c| 
 tJiat few foreigneri 
 anco of dweliingsl 
 
OSAKA. 
 
 01 
 
 in the southern part of the empire, Osaka is the domestic main 
 emporium. 
 
 While, for centuries, state policy required the daimios to reside 
 a part of each year with their armed retainer it Yeddo, the po- 
 litical capital, the same daimios made their metropolitan homes in 
 commercial Osaka. Here, on the banks of the canals, they erected 
 palaces, with storehouses and wharves and offices. Here they re- 
 ceived their rents in kind, and exchanged them in trade. 
 
 Between these palaces the canals are lined with cheaply -built 
 dwellings, two stories high, with a veranda around the first story. 
 
 a;- 
 
 4 
 t 
 
 8TBEBT IN OSAKA. 
 
 The lower story is a mercantile convenience, being washed with 
 the tides and floods. The people seen in the streets here, as well 
 as elsewhere in Japan, wear wooden shoes and dress coarsely. 
 The nudity, so frequent at the nortl.', becoraec liere more common 
 and offensive. Crowds followed us with a curiosity which shows 
 tliat few foreigners visit Osaka. Notwithstanding the mean appear- 
 nnco of dwellings and people, the city contrasts favorably with 
 
 I 
 
 I*; 
 
92 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 Yeddo, in show of prosperity and affluence. Some of the temples 
 are built within the areas of the princely palaces. More commonly, 
 however, they are independent and spacious, and, like the palaces, 
 accessible through canals and bas'ins. They are on the same model 
 with those at Yeddo, but more lavishly ornamented with allegorical 
 carving, and statuary in granite and bronze. Men are seldom seen 
 in or about the temples in Japan, but woman, poor, meek and rag- 
 ged, though forbidden, steals in there, reverently paying her devo- 
 tion to the gods and pitifully asking alms. How could woman en- 
 dure existence anywhere on earth without the solaces of religion ? 
 
 " From all ancienty to the present time," as a stump-orator, we 
 once heard, expressed it, the Japanese have made their irregular 
 and grotesque coins with the use only of the hammer. The govern- 
 ment has just now established a mint at Osaka, with machinery of 
 the latest invention, and equal, it is claimed, to the Philadelphia 
 Mint. Here they are making new coins similar in form and de- 
 vice to those of the Western nations, the value being based on sub- 
 divisions of the Mexican dollar. 
 
 Livy has given us what he says was the speech of Romulus 
 when he had founded Eome: "If all the strength of cities lay in 
 the height of their ramparts or the depths of their ditches, we should 
 have great reason to be in fear for that which wc have now built." 
 The Japanese might be excused i^ they should reverse this senti- 
 ment, and speak with great confidence of the security of the empire 
 derived from ramparts and ditches. As with Yeddo, so with Osaka. 
 Its boast is its castle, an imperial residence and fortress of mikados 
 and tycoons. We tried ineffectually to obtain a measurement of 
 some of the granite blocks of this structure. Wc think it safe, how- 
 ever, to say, that one of them is thirty feet long; fifteen feet high 
 and five feet thick. No one knows where, when or how, such im- 
 mense stones were riven at the quarry, and brought to the summit 
 of the lofty hill, which overlooks the city of Osaka. The Tycoon in 
 the late civil war, however, took possession of the castle witli his 
 forces, only to find it a prison, and insecure at that. He was dis- 
 lodged by the Mikado's army, and made his escape on a United 
 States steamer. Before leaving the citadel, he destroyed its defensive 
 
 works, so as t< 
 as a camp of 
 the castle at 
 capital to the 
 show considers 
 castle, and alio 
 honored with i 
 European artil 
 liorns. The di 
 native Japanes( 
 legged, but dre 
 of the first orga 
 Japanese are n 
 evolutions and ( 
 The Japanes 
 the world, but t 
 which overtook 
 family being the 
 our clothes, and 
 soup." When 
 shut out from 
 Osaka, to be see 
 of the "fruit of 
 on the now rou" 
 ' pitching of the s 
 side-ladder of th( 
 
 Nagamhl, 0> 
 
 so Nagasaki com 
 
 Tliat sea is a to 
 
 Ocean on the ea 
 
 west coast of Jap 
 
 tlie southern islfi 
 
 this channel m; 
 
 separates once co 
 
 through ? Was 
 
 a 
 
MILITARY HONORS. 
 
 93 
 
 works, so as to render it unavailable to the conqueror. Now used 
 as a camp of instruction, it is as jealously closed against visitors as 
 the castle at Yeddo. Instructions having come down from the 
 capital to the Governor here, as well as to the one at Hiogo, to 
 show consideration to Mr. Seward, we were conducted through the 
 castle, and allowed to witness the drill, and at the same time were 
 honored with a serenade from the trumpeters, which consisted of 
 European artillery and cavalry calls jumbled together on French 
 horns. The din and discord may be imagined. The bronze-faced 
 native Japanese troops, lower than European in stature, and bow- 
 legged, but dressed in French uniforms, recalled our recollections 
 of the first organization of negi-o troops in the late civil war. The 
 Japanese are not less docile and orderly, and they went through 
 evolutions and drill, according to French tactics, commendably. 
 
 The Japanese umbrellas are the best as they are the cheapest in 
 the world, but they could give us no protection from the rain-storm 
 which overtook us in the dilapidated castle. Captain Kinder's 
 family being the only European one in Osaka, took us in and dried 
 our clothes, and gave us all we had time to take, " a hasty plate of 
 soup." When we reached our yacht, black night with high winds 
 shut out from us the beautiful gulf-shores, and so passed away 
 Osaka, to be seen no more by us, for we have taken care not to eat 
 of the '• fruit of destiny," the lotus. The heaving of the steamer 
 on the now roughened sea was uncomfortable, but the tossing and 
 ' pitching of the small boat which conveyed us from the yacht to the 
 side-ladder of the New York was dangerous and frightful. 
 
 Naga^ak% October 13^A. — As Hiogo commands the southeast, 
 so Nagasaki commands the northwest entrance of the Inland Seu. 
 That sea is a tortuous passage, flowing between the North Pacific 
 Ocean on the east and the Yellow Sea or Straits of Corea on the 
 west coast of Japan, separating the northern island of Niplion from 
 the southern islands of Toksima and Kiusiu. How and when was 
 this channel made? Were the three mountain-islands which it 
 separates once compact land, and did the ocean force its passage 
 through? Was all Japan once submerged, and were the islands 
 
 
 *J^Ji=» 
 
 t»^ 
 
 f« 
 
 (»'' 
 
 >4 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 i£ 
 
 '•« 
 
 r 
 
 ■% 
 
 in;- 
 
 1 
 
 r 
 
 
 c 
 
 ■'i 1 
 
 Bu- 
 
 
 »^ 
 
 
 »' 
 
 
 rf 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 r 
 « 
 
 
 
 £i 
 
04 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 thrown up in their present form ? Who can say ? Not we. Per- 
 haps Agassiz niiglit. We must content ourselves with writing that, 
 
 EN rUANCK TO NAGASAKI. 
 
 like most inland seas, this of Japan is marvellously beautiful. 
 Four hundred miles long, of varying width, everywhere deep, it 
 M'ashes the shores of the main islands in some places, while in 
 others it is broken into twentv narrower channels which break on 
 the shores of uncounted lesser islands. In this the Inland Sea re- 
 sembles our own Lake of the Woods, which takes its strange name 
 from the fact that the island-surface enclosed within its shores 
 exceeds in area the water-surface of the lake. Tliese islands of the 
 Inland Sea are said to be three thousand, but we are inclined to 
 tliink that islands in groups like these are never accurately counted. 
 Everybody speaks of the Thousand Islands in the St. Lawrence, 
 without remembering that they are reckoned at eighteen hundred. 
 
^<^ 
 
 IIARBOPw OF NAGASAKI. 
 
 9: 
 
 The channel twists around and among the islands in all direc- 
 tions, so that the headlands which we pass seem as Heeling as the 
 clouds, producing ever-varying scenery. During one hour, we arc 
 making our gloomy way under the deep shadow of a naked preci- 
 pice four thousand feet high. In the next, we are passing terraced 
 hill-sides, covered with sunlit orchards, Howory plains and fields, and 
 forests in which the bamboo, the tulip and the cypress commingle. 
 It seems as if the busy population of the whole empire has clustered 
 on these romantic shores. Manufacturing towns alternate with 
 
 
 1 
 
 r1 
 
 NAGASAKI IIARBOB. 
 
 fishing-villages, and every nook is filled with quaint and miniature 
 shipping. 
 
 Niffht set in, and the bell summoned us to dinner as we were 
 beginning to round a jutting promontory of the western shore. 
 Shall we ever forgive Mr. Kandall for beguiling us with his humor- 
 ous stories until we were brought suddenly to our feet, by the 
 
 hi 
 
96 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 dropping of the anchor, and the firing of a gun, which announced 
 to us that we had arrived in port 'i 
 
 A moonlight view of Nagasaki ; fitting sequel of a two-days' 
 voyage through the Inland Sea. AVe forgive Mr. Randall ; the 
 first view of Nagasaki ought to be by moonlight. The bay is small ; 
 we almost know, without being told, every object around us. These 
 vessels on the larboard arc Japanese ships-of-war. This steamer 
 directly before us is a German man-of-war ; this ship on our star- 
 board quarter, with its black funnels and its stubbed masts, is the 
 British admiral's flag-ship ; and this long, narrow steamer is a Rus- 
 sian corvette. Beyond tiie area thus occupied by armed vessels 
 are two American merchant-ships and forty awkward but sea- 
 worthy Chinese junks. On encircling hills, which rise two thou- 
 
 sand feet out 
 Those dark si 
 cor.sulates an 
 ravine which 
 the ancient nf 
 trade ; this isl 
 the famous Di 
 the boast and 
 raced hill-siae; 
 
 TKMHLE OF UUUOUA AT NAUAHAKl. 
 
 high, conical ro 
 Papenburg, me 
 Jesuit teachers 
 AVliat does 
 Instant with t 
 livers its natioi 
 swelling forth 
 " God save the 
 
MOONLIGHT VIEW. 
 
 97 
 
 sand feet out of the sea, ai*e the temples and groves of Buddha. 
 Those dark shades below theiu are hanging gardens in which the 
 cor.sulates and the merchants' residences are embowered. Thi.s 
 ravine which stretches from the shore upward on the hill-side is 
 the ancient native town ; this quay on our right is the seat of active 
 trade; this island just before us, hardly broader than a flat-boat, is 
 the famous Decima, for two hundred years the mart and the prison, 
 tho boast and the shame of the Dutch traders in Japan ; those ter- 
 raced hill-sides opposite the town are the city of the dead ; and this 
 
 •at 2 
 
 i. M 
 
 f I 
 
 ly^ J.fUMI^H. 
 
 VIEW OK DECIMA. 
 
 high, conical rock, which seems to close the passage to the sea, is 
 Papenburg, memorable as the scene of the martyrdom of the early 
 Jesuit teachers and converts in Japan. 
 
 Wliat does this scene want to perfect its magic? Only masic! 
 Instant with the thought, the band on the German frigate de- 
 livers its national hymn, " Des Deutsche Yaterland ; " then come 
 swelling forth from the British flag-ship the inspiring notes of 
 " God save the Queen ; " and these only die away, when the solemn 
 
 
98 
 
 JAPAN, nniNA, AXD COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 national anthem of Eussia, " Thou pious and gentle leader, shield 
 of the church of believers, God be the protector and defender of 
 our great Czur," grander than !;11, rolls over the sea. 
 
 Is not this glorious concevt, under the flags of these great Chris^ 
 tian nations, in these distant and lonely waters, suggestive? Mr. 
 Seward answered, " Yes, but deceptive." The German is here 
 lying in wait for his French enemy ; the British admiral is here to 
 intimidate the scmi-barbarc>us races ; and the Russian admiral is 
 guarding the eastern gate of his master's empire, which towers be- 
 hind and above Asiatic and European states on both continents. 
 So it is that jealousy and ambition breathe in the notes of this ma- 
 jestic serenade. 
 
 October lUh. — It is because we cannot swim that we fear the 
 deep. It is because we delight in climbing that we admire the high. 
 While the flat is dull, the circle is our chosen form for the beautiful. 
 Thus the amphitheatre, with its circular and lofty walls, was adopted 
 for the Pantheon as well as for the Coliseum ; though it has since 
 been sometimes discarded from the temple, it remains nevertheless 
 universally associated with the stage and the hippodrome. If we 
 must live in a town, give us one which, like Nagasaki, is an amphi- 
 theatre, whose base is the sea, and whose towering walls are green 
 and terraced mountains. It was under an inspiration like this that 
 Peter on the mount said : " Master, it is good for us to be here. 
 Let us make three tabernacles, one for thee, one for Moses, an one 
 for Elias." * The preaching of Christianity here by St. Francis 
 Xavier, in 1540, was followed by such success that, within fifty 
 years afterward, Nagasaki w'as surrendered by its native prince to 
 the Portuguese, and became at once the see of an episcopate, and 
 an emporium of Portuguese trade. But Xavier little apprehended 
 that the Order of Jesus, which he was introducing, would become 
 so arrogant and ambitious as to contest with the native sovereign 
 absolute dominion within the empire. The Portuguese Chris- 
 tians thus becoming obnoxious to the government, all foreigners 
 were within the first hundred years excluded from Japan, under 
 pain of death, while persecutions more cruel than th-^se of Nero 
 
PARTING VIEW OF JAPAN. 
 
 09 
 
 were visited on the teachers and converts alike. A few Protestant 
 merchants from Amsterdam, renouncing their religion, joined the 
 government in the persr , iition of the Christians, and were ])er- 
 mitted, under Immiliating surveillance, to replace the Portuguese 
 at Nagasaki. This truly pitiable colony was found here on the 
 arrival of *^he United States squadron in 1853. It was understood, 
 at that time, that the Christian faith had been effectually extirpated 
 by the massacres at Papenburg. The world was astonished, hoAv- 
 ever, \i\ 1867, by a discovery that the Christian religion was still 
 living in the province of Nagasaki, and that a large number of 
 natives were condemned to death or servitude for their clandestine 
 adherence to that taitb. The Western nations interposed in their 
 behalf. The government contented itself with forcibly deporting 
 twenty-seven hundred of the offending Christians from their homes, 
 and distributing them through the more distant provinces of the 
 empire. This new persecution being thus arrested, it is manifestly 
 the intention of the government now to adopt the principle of uni- 
 versal toleration. 
 
 It would be pleasant to dwell on the hospitalities of Mr. and 
 Mrs. Mangum, and on the courtesies of the foreign fleets. 
 
 Yellow Sea, October l^th. — Leaving Nagasaki yesterday morn- 
 ing, we carefully examined Coal Island and the other islands which 
 close the magnificent harbor. Nor did we omit to notice that 
 marvellous rock, which, having been dropped nobody knows how 
 or from where, is lodged like a wedge between two naked natural 
 abutments. Our parting view of Japan was a sunset glimpse of 
 the Goto Group, the western outpost of the Island Empire. 
 
 It is hardly more satisfactory to quit Japan after a residence 
 of only twenty days, than it would have been to leave it altogether 
 un visited ; nevertheless, there is Peking before us, " a bourn from 
 which no traveller" can "return" later Lhan November, and so 
 we must onward. Let us set down our memories, such as they 
 are, while they are fresh. 
 
 Although society in Japan is divided, as it is in every other coun- 
 try, into high classes and low classes, classes wearing two swords, 
 
 
 { > 
 
 t1 
 
100 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 classes wearing one sword, and classes wearing no swords at all, yet 
 the people are universally docile and amiable. We saw not one act 
 of rudeness, and heard not one word of ill-temper, in the country. 
 Heaven knows that, in the arrogant assumv^! ^y foreigners of 
 superiority among them, the people have pr. < .„ions enough for 
 both ! One of the Japanese ambassadors to the United States in 
 1867 was robbed at Baltimore of a richly-mounted sword. Neither 
 he nor his government made any complaint. Mr. Seward for- 
 tunately recovered and restored it, with a national apology. Foreign 
 residents in Japanese cities are often timid, jealous, and suspicious. 
 Some are prone to exaggerate inconveniences into offences. Others 
 are dogmatic and contemptuous. Even one of the most generous 
 of American citizens, when driving Mr. Seward through the streets 
 of Yeddo, could not forbear from cracking his whip over the bare 
 heads of the native crowd. Mr. Seward endured this flourish 
 silently, but he vehemently and earnestly implored his imi^ctuous 
 friend to spare a litter of sleeping puppies which lay in the way. 
 Women and children shrieked as they caught up the mangled 
 brutes behind the carriage-wheels, but the relentless charioteer 
 only said : "It will never do to stop for such things ; let them learn 
 to keep their streets clear." Intimidation and menace naturally 
 provoke anger and resentment. European and American fleets are 
 always hovering over the coasts of Japan. Though the eye of the 
 Japanese is long and curved, it sees as clearly as the foreign eve, 
 which is round and straight. Human nature is the same in all 
 races. Who could wonder if the Asiatics foil to love, where they 
 are taught only to fear ? 
 
 It would be manifestly unfair to judge the Japanese by the 
 standard of Western civilization. Measured by the Oriental one, it 
 cannot be denied that it excels the Asiatic states to whose system it 
 belongs. The affections of family and kindred seem as strong here 
 as elsewhere. There is no neglect of children ; there is no want of 
 connubial care ; no lack of parental love or filial devotion. Nor is it 
 to be forgotten that, in regard to domestic morals, we are giving 
 the Japanese some strange instructions. On this very ship on 
 which we have embarked, there is a German merchant who, after a 
 
 the mountain-verj 
 
JAPANESE CIVILIZATION. 
 
 101 
 
 siiort l)ut successful career in Yokoliamn, is returning rich to hia 
 native land; -with him his child, a pretty brunette buy, two yeais 
 old. The father brings him to us to be caressed. We ask, " Where 
 is the Japanese mother?" "I have left her behind; she would 
 not be fit to bring up the boy, or to be seen hersell' in a European 
 country." 
 
 No one denies that the Japanese have both the courage and 
 the politeness which belong to an heroic people. They are ac- 
 cused of practising fraud, cunning, and cruelty in Avar. Arc 
 they more vicious in this respect than other pagan or even Chris- 
 tian nations ? Do not the records of war on our own soil contain 
 ii melancholy catalogue of similar crimes? Are not the pages 
 which record Napoleon's great campaigns sullied by deeds aliko 
 unworthy of our race? The Japanese are sanguinary in civil 
 war. Are they more so than the French were in their first 
 groat Revolution ? 
 
 The painstaking culture which extends from the water's edge to 
 the mountain-verge ; the tedious manipulation practised in mech- 
 anism ; and the patient drudgery of the coolies in the cities, in labor 
 elsewhere performed by domestic animals, show that the Japanese 
 arc industrious. Though the empire has, from its earliest period,, 
 been isolated from the civilized world, yet the silks of that country 
 \^-ero found among the richest freights of Venice. A Japanese 
 bazaar is seen in every modem European city ; and there is no 
 drawing-room, museum, or palace in the world, which is completely 
 famished without Japanese fabrics. 
 
 They have no legislature, yet they have uniform laws, and these 
 laws are legibly inscribed on tablets at every cross-rond and market- 
 place. Although science and literature in the West have borrowed 
 little or nothing from these islands, the Japanese trre nevertheless 
 a reading and writing people. We hardly know wnether Boston, 
 Philadelphia, or New York shop-windows display greater number 
 or variety of maps, books, charts auvl pictures, than the stalls of 
 Yeddo, Osaka, or Miako. 
 
 Japan is populous, whether we allow it twenty millions, as 
 some of our missionaries do, or fifty millions, as the prime-minister 
 
 a 
 
 at 
 t 
 
 Uv. 
 
 rl 
 
 
 I 
 
 
102 
 
 JAPAX, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 claimed in liis conversation with Mr. Seward. Neverthelci^s, nicu- 
 dicity, thoii^di luircstruincd by law, is less otiensive than in Naples, 
 or even in New York. 
 
 It would be a curious study to inquire how and when the se- 
 vere feudal nu)del of the middle agei4 of Europe obtained a place 
 in Japan, or how it has continued so long among a people so mer- 
 curial, and yet so thoughtful. While in theory the Mikado is sov- 
 ereign proprietor, the whole domain practically belongs to ihc 
 daimios, who are rich. The revenues of many of them are not less 
 than the public revenues of some of the States of our Federal Union. 
 Tiiough the peasantry are poor, we nowhere heard a complaint 
 against rents or taxes, or the price of labor. Moreover, the Japan- 
 ese, w^liile they encourage immigration, never emigrate. "VVe infer 
 from these facts that, if not a' happy people, they are at least a 
 contented one. 
 
 They were a religious people when they accepted the Mikado, 
 and gave him their reverence. They must have been a religious 
 people, when they accepted from the Mikado the teachings of the 
 Sintu sect ; they miiSt lur i been a religious people, when the doc- 
 trines of Buddha supplanted so generally the dreamy mysticisms of 
 the earlier faith. Xavier found them a religious people, willing 
 to accept the teachings of Christianity. But the religious age in 
 Japan has passed. Confucian philosophy has nndennined all myth- 
 ological creeds, and left the Japanese a nation of doubters. Gov- 
 ernment now makes no provision for the support of religious orders. 
 Their revenues, derived from ancient foundations, are diminishing. 
 The priesthood is as inoffensive as it is poor. It may be expected 
 that under this toleration the Christian faith will now, for the first 
 time, come into public consideration in Japan in the way it ought 
 to come, that is to say, in connection with the science, literature, 
 and art, and the political, moral, and social institutions of the 
 "Western nations. 
 
 The Japanese arc less an imitative people than an inquiring one. 
 
 They are not, however, excitable concerning the events of the day, 
 
 but rather diligent in studying what is useful. All their dramatic 
 
 .repre&entations are didactic ; and, though they have a fondness for 
 
 legerdemain, tli 
 makes them thii 
 The most ui: 
 ncss of tlie ])opi 
 mon i)eople nei 
 the public bathi 
 throughout the 
 without the ri<r] 
 basement of wo 
 "We are obliged t 
 nont place in the 
 we have had of h 
 that among them 
 Japanese hist( 
 the science, litern 
 but from ancient 
 Cliina in civilizat: 
 of the Grecian, 
 distinct and inde 
 own civilization, \ 
 from any quarter, 
 joyed a fortune 
 had developed a 
 they came into c 
 nation went dowr 
 disappeared. Th 
 were maturing 
 readied by the W( 
 tlicy more clearly 
 great promptness 
 European intervei 
 remained so near!; 
 (luring that time, 
 has at last come 
 electric telegraph, 
 shores of Japan. 
 
JAPANESE SOCIETY. 
 
 103 
 
 legerdemain, they enjoy it not because it is amusing, but because it 
 iiiiikes them tliink from i)owei' to product, from cause to effect. 
 
 The most unpropitious feature of Japanese society is the gross- 
 iicss of the popuhir sense in regard to wonuin. Among the com- 
 mon people neither sex maintains decency in dress, and they use 
 the public bathing-houses promiscuously. In Japan, as elsewhere 
 throughout the East, there indeed is marriage, but it is marriage 
 without the rights and responsibilities of that relation. This de- 
 basement of woman has tainted and corrupted the whole state. 
 We are obliged to conchide that domestic virtue has not a promi- 
 nent place in the morals of Japan, although some glimpses which 
 we have had of life in the upper classes have inclined us to believe 
 that among them vice is not altogether free from restraint. 
 
 Japanese history derives many of the institutions and much of 
 the science, literature and morals of the country, not from China, 
 but from ancient Corea, which seems to have taken precedence of 
 China in civilization, as the Pelasgian civilization took precedence 
 of the Grecian. The Japanese may, however, be considered as a 
 distinct and independent Mongolian race, which has matured its 
 own civilization, without having been deeply affected by intrusion 
 from any quarter. In this respect the Japanese seem to have en- 
 joyed a fortune like that of the Aztecs of Mexico. That people 
 had developed a unique civilization, and were maturing it, when 
 they came into conflict with European nations. The Mexican 
 nation went down under the violence of the shock, and altogether 
 disappeared. The Japanese had in like manner effected and 
 were maturing a civilization of their own when they were 
 reached by the Western nations. More advanced than the Aztecs, 
 they more clearly apprehended the danger of the contact, and with 
 great promptness and decision they effectually resisted and defeated 
 European intervention. Having thus isolated themselves, they 
 remained so nearly three hundred years. If they did not advance 
 during that time, they did not fixll back. That isolation, however, 
 has at last come to an end ; steam, the printing-press, and the 
 electric telegraph, have brought the "Western nations on all the 
 shores of Japan. It Is manifest that the two distinct and widely- 
 
 *.^■rM« 
 •t 
 
 4 
 I 
 
104 
 
 JAPA^T, CIIIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 different civilizations cannot continne in such near contact. Tlie 
 great problem now is, whether the European civilization can be 
 extended over Japan, without the destruction, not merely of the 
 political institutions of the country, but of the Japanese nation 
 itself. The Japanese arc practically defenceless against the West- 
 ern States. If they are to be brought completely into the society 
 of those nations, it must either be by the application of force, or by 
 that of persuasion and encouragement. The interests of both re- 
 quire that the latter mode should be adopted, but it yet remains 
 to be seen whether "Western civilization has reached such a moral 
 plane as to secure its voluntary and peaceful adoption. 
 
 There is much of discouragement in the prospect. Few station- 
 ary or declining nations have been regenerated by the intervention 
 of states more highly civilized. Most such have perished under the 
 shock. On the other hand, there are some reasons for hope. Man- 
 kind seem at last to have risen equally above the theory that uni- 
 versal conquest is beneficent, and above the theory that it is pos- 
 sible. Commerce has largely taken the place of war, and it is now 
 universally felt that interest and humanity go hand in hand. It is 
 the distinction of the Lnited States, and we may hope fortunate for 
 Japan, that they have come to the front of the Western states as 
 tutors of the decaying Asiatic nations. 
 
 If the tutorship of the United States in Japan is to be made 
 successful, it must be based on deeper and broader principles of 
 philanthropy than have heretofore been practised in the intercourse 
 of nations — a philanthropy which shall recognize not merely the 
 distinction of strength and power between nations, but the duties 
 of magnanimity, moderation and humanity — a philanthropy which 
 shall not be content with sending armies or navies to compel, hut 
 which shall send teachers to instruct, and establish schools on the 
 American system, in which philosophy, politics and morals, as well 
 as religious faith, are taught, with just regard to their influences in 
 social and domestic life. 
 
 Woosung.— U. S. Phi 
 Procession. — Chi- 
 cimi Prejudices a; 
 from France. — CI 
 
 V^00SU?1(/, Oe 
 and morals. Wl 
 tlic natural M'ay, 
 of the nature of 
 studying its surfi 
 A great ocea 
 Just at sunrise t 
 larl)()ard bow, fir 
 rolling their grea 
 i'orked tails wavii 
 shoal waters of tl 
 give the Yellow 
 
 We have croi 
 arrived at Woosv 
 below that city, 
 landmark. Only 
 June ; here the 1i 
 out its mellownes 
 Nagasaki. Are 
 tinental shores^ 
 
CIIAPTEE lY. 
 
 THE COAST OF CIIIXA. 
 
 Woosung. — U. S. Ship Colorado. — SlianRlmi. — European "Concession?." — A Mand.uin 
 Pioeession.— Chi-Tajen and Siin-Tajen. — Kiiropean and Chinese CiviHzation. — For- 
 ciioi Prejudices against the Chinese. — Tlie Shan Tung.— The Yellow Sea.— The News 
 from France.- Choi'-Foo, the Newport of China. — A Rough Voyage. 
 
 ^Voosunc/, October 17th. — A respite from politics, philantliropj 
 and morals. Why should wc not allow ourselves to see things in 
 the natural way, not to say that there is little more to be learned 
 of the nature of the millstone, by looking into it, than there is by 
 studying its surtace ? 
 
 A great ocean-sight was reserved for us on the Yellow Sea. 
 Just at sunrise this morning, unnumbered whales appeared off the 
 larl)oard bow, first throwing up glittering fountains of spray, then 
 rolling their great, glossy, black backs upward, then with their huge 
 forked tails waving adieu as they plunged under the waves. The 
 shoal waters of the Chinese coast have the hue of the Missouri, and 
 give the Yellow Sea its name. 
 
 AVe have crossed the great estuary of the Ypng-tse-kiang, and 
 arrived at Woosung, the outer haven of Shanghai, fourteen miles 
 below that city. The country is on all sides a low plain, without 
 landmark. Only three days ago, we left Japan, green as if it were 
 June ; here the fields are dry and brown. We have October with- 
 out its mellowness, and yet Shanghai is only one degree south of 
 Xngasaki. Are islands always warmer and more genial than con- 
 tinental shores? Did Sancho Panza understand this when he 
 
 
 ? -^ 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 \ 
 
stipulated for 
 land? 
 
 Many Am^ 
 anchor around 
 native junks ai 
 more high and 
 in all carrying 
 heads figured a 
 decks. How j 
 flag-ship Colorj 
 veying the na^ 
 hare no need t 
 are all there. 
 Admiral John 
 else could have 
 cheer Mr. Sew£ 
 inspiring strain 
 
 Shanghai, ( 
 other Americai 
 age, and broug 
 
 Let no one, 
 in China. Sha 
 like an outpost 
 our native shor 
 all the other 1] 
 bridge, these 
 steamers, these 
 that we have s( 
 they call here > 
 side of the Al 
 "Concession." 
 
 We have en 
 an excursion of 
 constraint wlii( 
 due more to foa 
 
THE "CONCESSION" AT SlIANGnAI. 
 
 lor 
 
 1 
 
 liiiiiiri' 
 
 
 ililliilljl 
 
 stipulated for an island instead of a government on the main- 
 land ? 
 
 Many American and European mereliant-sliips are riding at 
 anchor around us, while the river near its banks is crowded with 
 native junks and fishing-smacks, not to speak of a fleet of thirty or 
 more high and awkward, lazy-looking, small Chinese sloops-of-war, 
 in all carrying two hundred guns. They display at their mast- 
 heads figured and ornamental yellow bunting enough to cover their 
 decks. How pleasant it, is to us to recognize the United States 
 flag-ship Colorado, sitting gracefully in the midst, as if calmly sur- 
 veying the naval array ! We have counted her guns, though we 
 have no need to count her stars and stripes — we know that they 
 are all there. Our glasses have failed to discover our old friend 
 Admiral John Rodgers, but we know that he must be there. Who 
 else could have ordered that double line of seamen in dark blue to 
 cheer Mr. Seward as we are passing, and that band to strike up the 
 inspiring strains of " Hail Columbia ? " 
 
 Shanghai, October l%th. — Consul-General Seward and a dozen 
 other Americans, with kind consideration, took us from our anchor- 
 age, and brought us by steam-yacht to the " Bund." 
 
 Let no one, however, infer from this date that we have arrived 
 in China. Shanghai, as we Lave thus far seen it, seems to us less 
 like an outpost of the Central Flowery Kingdom, than a toAvn on 
 our native shores. This hospitable mansion of Russell & Company, 
 all the other houses, this quay, this street, all the streets, this 
 bridge, these churches, these banking-houses, warehouses, and 
 steamers, these carriages and horses, these men and women, all 
 that we have seen on the river or on shore, are European ; for so 
 they call here whatever is foreign, -whether it has come from one 
 side of the Atlantic or from the other. This is, in short, the 
 "Concession." 
 
 We have enjoyed our first drive in the country, that is to s:iy, 
 an excursion of six miles through the " Concession." Is the air of 
 constraint Avhich the natives here wear in presence of foreigners 
 due more to fear than to hate ? These contracted concessions, made 
 
 r 1 
 
 J 
 
 4 
 
 I* 
 
108 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 by the government to foreigners, remind one of " the liberties," so 
 called, M'liicli were drawn round Jails in Europe and the United 
 States before the abolition of imprisonment for debt. " You are safe 
 within them ; we guarantee nothing outside of them." Neither 
 party looks with pleasure on "the Concession." The foreigner 
 wants it enlarged ; the native dislikes it altogether, 
 
 AYhile writing these not very profound reflections, we were 
 summoned to the great gate of " the Compound," to see for the 
 first time a raandaiin procession. 
 
 MANKAKIN PKOCESSIOy. 
 
 It is the custom of a mandarin, when he moves abroad on social 
 or official visits, to be attended by as many retainers as he has, or 
 can hire. He proceeds, dressed in silken robes, in a sedan-chair, 
 
 gilded maces am 
 
 sible, but fiery : 
 
 cians leads the 
 
 ously, all beatir 
 
 and deafenino; c 
 
 double dignity ai 
 
 of one. Falstat] 
 
 the king's i^ress,' 
 
 darins approache 
 
 solves. We did 
 
 they bowed low 
 
 To our surprise, ^ 
 
 Tajen, survivors 
 
 ncse embassy wli 
 
 took final leave o 
 
 "Wot I look 
 
 and wonderful ( 
 
 they parted with 
 
 eastern voyage ai 
 
 liai on the very d 
 
 navio-ation ! 
 
 The pageant ] 
 her. How absurc 
 made the ambasj 
 ahroad ! " Yes," 
 deuce of the deca} 
 tain their pride lo: 
 Somehow it h 
 of tlie dead attrac 
 The peculiarity of 
 locks, everywhere 
 So far as wc havi 
 
CIII-TAJEN AND SU:^-TAJEN. 
 
 100 
 
 with a Gqiiare, glaring, scarlet canopy, borne by coolies, over his 
 head. Fantastic groups go before and behind the chair, dressed in 
 faded finery, carrying umbrellas of all forms and colors, huge 
 gilded maces and staves, banners, flags, and pennons, incoinprelien- 
 sible, but fiery red and ragged. A straggling company of musi- 
 cians leads the procession, while others mingle Avith it promiscu- 
 ously, all beating and banging on noisy gongs, clattering sticks, 
 and deafening drums. The procession in the present case was of 
 double dignity and importance : it conveyed two mandarins instead 
 of one. Falstafi''8 " tattered prodigals," although he had ''misused 
 tlie king's j^ress," were less grotesque. We thought that as the man- 
 darins approached they appeared unbecomingly eager to show them- 
 selves. We did them injustice. Leaning from their chair-windows 
 they bowed low and gesticulated reverentially as they passed us. 
 To our surprise, we recognized in their persons Chi-Tajen and Sun- 
 Tajen, survivors of the late lamented Bnrlingame in the great Chi- 
 nese embassy which visited the United States in 1808, and which 
 took final leave of Mr. Seward at his residence in Auburn. 
 
 "Wot I look at," said Samuel Weller, "is the hextraordinary 
 and wonderful coincidence." Chi-Tajen and Sun-Tajen, since 
 tliey parted with us, have spent two years in accomplishing their 
 eastern voyage around the world, and they have reached Shang- 
 hai on the very day we have arrived here in our western circum- 
 navigation ! 
 
 Tlie pageant passed quickly by, and we returned to oin* cham- 
 ber. How absurd this exhibition had seemed ; how difierently it 
 made the ambassadors appear here, from the show they made 
 abroad ! " Yes," said Mr. Seward, " it is even so ; it is an evi- 
 dence of the decay of the empire. States, like individual men, re- 
 tain their pride long after they have lost the means to support it." 
 
 Somehow it happens that, Avhcrever we go, the resting-places 
 of the dead attract our attention before the homes of the living. 
 The peculiarity of burial here is, that the tombs rise in great hil- 
 locks, everywhere in the cultivated fields, and even in the gardens. 
 So far as we have observed, the monuments arc few, cheap, and 
 inclegant- 
 
 
 f ] 
 
 
 
110 
 
 JAPAN", CIIIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 Shanghai, October Idth. — Shanghai is immensely agitated con- 
 cerning the recent massacre at Tien-Tsin. AVe find European vol- 
 unteers, a hundred strong, drilling for defence against an appre- 
 hended Chinese invasion of '' the Concession." Mrs. Seward, the 
 consul general's Avife, has just presented those volunteers -svith a 
 standard of colors. Everybody is astonished at Mr. Seward's rash- 
 ness in going to Peking at the very moment they nnderstand that 
 all the foreign legations there are coming to this port for protec- 
 tion, under the guns ot their respective nations. Admiral Rodgers, 
 with his staff, called upon Mr. Seward to-day. Although it is im- 
 possible for the Colorado to ascend the Pci-ho to Tung-Chow, he 
 considers it his duty to visit the capital personally, lie has ar- 
 ranged to accompany ]^Tr. Seward there next week. 
 
 Mrs. Warden, our hostess, last night had the entire foreign 
 society of Shanghai at a ball, which, although given in honor of 
 Mrs. Seward, the bride, had been postponed until our arrival. 
 
 Gentlemen largely predominate in European Shanghai. The 
 recent arrival of so many American ladies was deemed a social 
 event. Our ladv-friends at home will be interested in knowiiii^ 
 that all China furnishes not one mantua-mnker or milliner. The 
 dresses for the ladies come on orders from Paris, London, or Xcw 
 York. Native women have no need of European costumes. The 
 work here of the seamstress and tailor is done exclusively by men. 
 They come to your house and execute your commands quickly, 
 patiently, and cheaply, and in doing so they faithfully copy every 
 pattern you give them, and omit nothing. We arc inclined to 
 think that the story of the American merchant Avho ordered a 
 dozen pairs of yellow nankeen pantahxMis, and, sending as a ])at- 
 tern a jxiir which had been torn and patched, received twelve pairs 
 similarly patched in execution of his order, is not altogether an 
 invention. 
 
 The contrast between European and Chinese civilization was 
 presented sharply to ns this morning in our ])assage from (»]n'ii 
 Euro])ean Shanghai, with its ])oj)ulation of three thousand, to the 
 native town of Shanghai, with its one hundred tlumsand inhabit- 
 ants, shut up within a circular wall tw(}nty-live feet high, and two 
 
 ■rfrl-IIIHj 
 
 m 
 
 
 '& 
 
 f:i'»;i 
 
 ■ IS ill 
 
 ! ! 
 
 ..i i, '< 
 
 
 .■um 
 
 
 m 
 
 'hi 
 
 
 '' ih;ii! 
 
 ' '\n 
 
 m 
 
 im 
 
 
 
 i ''i!li 
 
 'mm 
 
 nm 
 
 'i ! 
 
 I'ljlillrii'l 
 
 ,lM! 
 
The 
 noil. 
 
 to 
 
 Cll II 
 
 pit- 
 
 Kiirs 
 • an 
 
 ^va^ 
 
 »|ien 
 
 ) the 
 
 ial>it- 
 
 1 twu 
 
 
 
 if) 
 
 CO 
 
 0) 
 
 o 
 
 i "^1 
 
 ' J 
 
112 
 
 JAPAN, CIIIXA, AND COCIIIX CHINA. 
 
 and one-tliird miles in circumference. We do not tliink that any 
 youth of our own day, however vigorous his arm, however strong 
 the sling or heavy the pebble he might use, could reduce that wall, 
 M-hich was built doubtless in the time of Kublai Khan, but M'o 
 would not answer for its standing against such an arm or weapon 
 as that which brought down the giant of the Philistines. The town 
 was easily captured by the English in 181:3. When Ave had passed 
 within the gates, and saw the narrow streets, and the crowded 
 structures, built of the most combustible materials, we wondered 
 what can be the Chinese idea in keeping up the wall, which, in case 
 of conflagration, must render escape imj)ossiblc. Native Shanghai, 
 like the foreign settlement, is built on an alluvial soil, and is insa- 
 lubrious, though reclaimed many centuries ago. This city is the 
 seat of an immense inland trade, in which tlie tropical j)roducts of 
 Southern China, with the hardier ones of Central China, are ex- 
 changed over the Yang-tse-kiang and the Imperial Canal for the tim- 
 ber, cattle, cereals, wool, and other products of Northern China, Mon- 
 golia, Mantchooria, and Russia. The annual exports of the town 
 exceed in value the whole mineral production of the United States. 
 It need not be said, therefore, that its merchants are shrewd, in- 
 dustrious and prosperous. It is marvellous how they have crowded 
 so small an area with warehouses, manufactories, shops, gardens, 
 theatres, dwellings, and temples. All these are built on a scale so 
 small and mean, that, though each structure proves adequate to its 
 purjjose, it is only a miniature model or a toy. Nevertheless, the 
 people of the town manifested much pride in showing us their con- 
 tracted dwellings built or exquisitely ornamented M'ith cedar and 
 other fragrant woods, their miniature lakes filled with dwarf moun- 
 tains which sometimes rise to the enormous height of thirty feet, 
 and which the Chinese imagination magnifies into a range of Him- 
 alayas. We found there, besides tea-houses vastly finer than any 
 in Japan, numerous guildhalls elaborately ornamented, in whicli 
 boards and other associations of merchants and manufacturers daily 
 congregate to discuss matters of trade, and such politics as they 
 have. With all this, there is not one street accessible by car- 
 riage of any kind. The visitor is even obliged to leave his sedan- 
 
 chair at the ga 
 
 six or eight fc 
 
 are so ofi:ensiv 
 
 cession " warns 
 
 Contrary tc 
 
 not the least en 
 
 ners. All his ^ 
 
 dence, if not a c 
 
 of the Chinama 
 
 avoids here by 
 
 tinually present 
 
 is probable that 
 
 morals and ma 
 
 out that result 1 
 
 But we eschi 
 
 into it again. 
 
 Shanghai, C 
 Chinese processi 
 visited Mr. Sev 
 diplomatic laboi 
 Mr. Burlingame 
 aid they had ret 
 and gratefully oi 
 United States, 
 his intention of 
 insisted that he 
 Chinese inn, in 
 worthy or fit to 
 " No, no, we wil 
 Even when we ^ 
 come to China, 
 •1 visit. Now, si] 
 abroad with wha 
 It is a disapp( 
 China and Chine 
 
A DISAPPOINTMENT. 
 
 113 
 
 chair at the gate, and make liis way through crowded lanes at mosft 
 six or eight feet wide. Surface drainage is used, and the streets 
 are so offensive and disgusting that every European in the " con- 
 cession " warns the stranger against going there. 
 
 Contrary to what we saw in Japan, the native Chinaman shows 
 not the least emulation or imitation of Western customs and man- 
 ners. All his ways manifest a spirit of self-assertion and indepen- 
 dence, if not a contemptuous one. "We now comprehend the puzzle 
 of the Chinaman in San Francisco. The scenes which the European 
 avoids here by taking refuge within the "concession" are con- 
 tinually present with him wherever he moves in San Francisco. It 
 is probable that the contact will work an improvement in Chinese 
 morals and manners there, sooner than the separation will bring 
 out that result here. 
 
 But we eschewed philosophy for to-day, and here we have tallen 
 into it again. 
 
 Shanghai, October 20^A. — A renewal to-day of yesterday's 
 Chinese procession, but with a sequel. Chi-Tajen and Sun-Tajen 
 visited Mr. Seward, and announced to him the success of their 
 diplomatic labors in Europe, condoled with him on the death of 
 Mr. Burlingame, thanked Mr. Seward over and over again for the 
 aid they had received from him in their mission, and dwelt long 
 and gratefully on the hospitalities which they had enjoyed in the 
 United States. Mr. Seward inquired their lodgings, and expressed 
 his intention of returning their visit. They thanked him, but 
 insisted that he should not do so. They said, " We are living in a 
 Cliinese inn, in the old city. Neither the tavern nor the city is 
 worthy or fit to receive you." "When he persisted, they replied : 
 "N^o, no, we will come to you here, but we are nnable to entertain. 
 Even when we were with you at Auburn, and you promised to 
 come to China, we thought how unworthy we were to receive such 
 a visit. Now, since we have compared so much that we have seen 
 abroad with what we are at home, wo know this better." 
 
 It is a disappointment to us. "What we want to do is to study 
 China and Chinese ways. This study is the last one that can be 
 
 > ,-*■' 
 
 t 
 
 thh 
 
 «« 
 
 nut 
 
 •.-» 
 
 
 f'M 
 
 «:" 
 
 
 r 
 
 1 
 
 Z- 
 
 1 
 
 »- 
 
 t 
 
 * 
 
 u 
 
 1 
 
 K 
 
 1 
 
 ( 1 
 
 
 
 
 
114 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 made among the foreign population of Slianghai. In that circle, 
 Chinese affairs are generally ignored. With the exception of un 
 occasional philanthropic observer, they talk in that society chiefly 
 of French defeats and German victories, of London fashions, Oxford 
 boat-races, and American inferiority to Europeans in diplomatic 
 and consular etiquette. If they talk at all of China, it is against the 
 Burlingame Treaty, with asseverations that it is an utter absurdity 
 to expect any good thing to come out of China, except through 
 blockade and bombardment. Possibly, this is an exaggeration 
 resulting from the massacre at Tien-Tsin, and represents the tran- 
 sient rather than the settled opinion of the foreign population. 
 
 Happily this distrust of the Chinese does not affect or disturb 
 trade. A large part of the coasting-trade of China is in foreign 
 hands, and is conducted chiefly by the Shanghai Steam-Navigation 
 Company. That company has built wharves one thousand feet 
 long, which are covered with warehouses, here called " go -downs.'' 
 From these wharves the company dispatches eighteen coastwise 
 steamers, an average of one per day. These are chiefly American- 
 built, and they enter all the treaty ports of the empire. How 
 miserable the prejudices to which wc have adverted seem to us, in 
 view of the fa i, that this immense development of foreign naviga- 
 tion and commerce is not only permitted by the Chinese Govern- 
 ment, but is encouraged by it ! It seems the more unreasonable 
 when we reflect that now, after more than twenty years of 
 international intercourse, the United States have not one griev- 
 ance against the Chinese Government imredressed, or one demand 
 unsatisfied. 
 
 It is pleasing to meet, here, " John Brown's soul marching on."' 
 At Mrs, Warden's ball, a colored man named Butler was received 
 on a footing with the other guests. This Mr. Butler, who is 
 equally modest and intelligent, is a native of Washington, and Avas 
 born a slave of Commodore Rodgers, the father of the present 
 admiral. He is here superintendent of the "go-downs," and 
 charged with the entire freighting business of the Shanghai Steam- 
 Navigation Conpany, receiving for his services a salary of four 
 thousand dollars. 
 
 SteamsJiip ^ 
 
 circumstanced { 
 
 which, thougli 
 
 We have left M 
 
 last night, Mr. ' 
 
 drove us to the 
 
 superintendent 
 
 illumination of 
 
 this magnificen 
 
 steamer which r 
 
 dred and fifty fe 
 
 state-rooms and 
 
 on our rivers an 
 
 sle^p last night i 
 
 before allowed u 
 
 At six this II 
 
 c 
 
 (lo.vn the river 
 Colorado brouffl 
 fifteen guns. Ui 
 board the Shan 
 of twenty-seven ] 
 this gallant acces 
 Yang-tse-kiang, 
 on the Yellow S 
 of the north. 
 
 Taking up th 
 overthrow of the 
 of a provisional ^ 
 
 Everybody at 
 Orleans dynasty. 
 He answers, '• I 
 because the coun 
 
ON BOARD THE SIIAN TDNG. 
 
 115 
 
 SteamsJdj) Shan Tung^ October 2'2d. — " Situated as -we are and 
 circumstanced as we are," it seems to us that we arc out on a picnic, 
 which, though it threatens to be long, promises inuch of interest. 
 AVe have left Mr. and Mrs. Ilandall at Shanghai. At eleven o'clock 
 lust night, Mr. Warden, whom we have found as wise as he is kind, 
 drove us to the " Bund," where we were received by the aforesaid 
 giiperintendent Butler, who had set ship and shore ablaze with an 
 illumination of Chinese lanterns in honor of Mr. Seward. With 
 this magnificent display, we were brought on board this pretty 
 steamer which remains still attached to the wharf. It is one hun- 
 dred and fifty feet long and twenty -four feet across the beam ; its 
 state-rooms and cabins are more spacious than those usually found 
 on our rivers and lakes at home, and we enjoyed in them a sounder 
 sle3p last night than the excitement and hilarity at Shanghai had 
 before allowed us. 
 
 At six this morning- 
 
 "The ship was cheered, 
 The harhor cleared, 
 Merrily did we drop — " 
 
 f 
 
 r I 
 
 do.vn the river to AVoosung, where a friendly summons from the 
 Colorado brought us to, and Mr. Seward received her salute of 
 fifteen guns. Under this friendly fire. Admiral Rodgers came on 
 boarrl the Shan Tung with an attendance of seven oflicers, a guard 
 of twenty-seven marines, and the brass band of his flag-ship. AVitli 
 this gallant accession, we have crossed the bar at the mouth of the 
 Yang-tse-kiang, here thirty miles wide, and are once more afloat 
 on the Yellow Sea, bound for the now much-dreaded colder regions 
 of the north. 
 
 Taking up the Shanghai newspaper, we read the news of the 
 overthrow of the Second Empire of France, and the estobllshment 
 of a provisional government at Paris. 
 
 Everybody asks Mr. Seward, "Will France now restore the 
 Orleans dynasty, or will it be the elder branch of the Bourbons ? " 
 He answers, '• I think France will henceforth ie "^ republic, not 
 because the country is prepared for it, but because 1; has at last 
 
 ( > 
 
 H 
 
 
116 
 
 JAPAN", CIIIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 both sufficiently tried and exploded monarchy and imperialism," 
 " This," said one of our friends, " is a bold ])r(.»phec'y to make under 
 the shadow of an empire which is iivo thousand years old, whiH the 
 
 MOUTH OP THE VANO-TSE-KIANO. 
 
 republic is only an experiment of one hundred years in America 
 and in Switzerland." He replied : " The first Napoleon predicted 
 that, within fifty years, Europe Avould either be Cossack or repub- 
 lican. Monarchies and empires are of the past. The republic is 
 the institution of the present and future." 
 
 " By the deep, twenty -four fathoms." Deep water this, though 
 the waves still glisten with the yellow sands of the great river. 
 The ship rocks, and we rest. 
 
 Yellow Sea, Latitude 34° 30', Sunday, October 2Sd. — Although 
 we certainly did lose one whole day on shipboard on the Pacific, 
 and although it seems to us that we waste much time on shore, we 
 find nevertheless, on counting the weeks, and measuring the dis- 
 tances, that we are moving rapidly. Only last Sunday, we entered 
 the Yellow Sea from Japan. To-day, after a week of observation 
 and festivity at Shanghai, we have made one-third of our long 
 
ON THE YELLOW SEA. 
 
 117 
 
 projected voyage to Tien-Tsin. Who can reckon on the seasons ? 
 We came on board, prepared with furs and blankets, and shrinking 
 with fear of tempests. Nevertheless, the heavens are smiling, and 
 the Yellow Sea is smooth as Owasco Lake. The band, ])crhap8 
 because we arc travelling in the hemisphere of the heathen, has 
 brought no sacred music. Happily, it has not forgotten its lessons 
 from the opera. So wo were awakened and brought to the deck 
 this morning by the " Dies Irce " chorus from " Faust." For even- 
 ing we have stipulated for the prayer in " Der Freischutz." Al- 
 though we have no missionaries on board, we have come to regard 
 Sunday at sea as a day of rest, even more privileged and happy 
 than at home. We have offered from the deck thanks for our own 
 preservation as grateful, and prayers for friends at home, we trust, 
 as fervent, as those which may be made there to-day, "for per- 
 sons going to sea." We have just passed the mouth of the 
 Iloang-ho — the Yellow Kiver — the second of the two great rivers 
 of China. 
 
 
 
 Steamer Shan Tung, October 24^A. — We rounded this morning 
 the noble granite promontory Shan Tung, which is the most eastern 
 landmark of China proper, and gives its name to one of the most 
 extensive of the eighteen provinces which constitute the empire. It 
 is the water-shed between the Gulf of Pe-chee-lee and the basin of 
 the Yellow River. It is across the western end of this promontory 
 that the Imperial Canal bears the exchanges of Southern and 
 Central China with those of the metropolis and the ortlying prov- 
 inces of Mantchooria and Mongolia. Besides some fishermen's 
 huts on the beach, we saw only one structure on the promontory, 
 a Buddhist temple. The whole coast of the promontory is held 
 sacred in China as pertaining to the birthplace of Confucius. 
 
 The appearance of a troop of soldiers winding down the moun- 
 tain-side reminded us that the Tien-Tsin massacre has been followed 
 by profound apprehensions of foreign war. A lonely, basaltic rock 
 towers above the sea at the foot of the promontory — a monument 
 that the land once came there, and that the wasting ocean has cut 
 it off. But this monument, like all those erected by human hands, 
 
 ^^ 
 
is not destinec 
 flowing tlirong 
 base of the proi 
 The junk i 
 All its timbers 
 designed for a i 
 and its awkwa: 
 
 Ite?:. MM 
 
 from all other s( 
 On either side of 
 asked a (Chinese 
 pr(iui])tly replied, 
 mjirkub'e coincid 
 Alaska Indians 
 never been a im 
 
CHINESE JUNKS. 
 
 119 
 
 is not destined to endure. It is already broken, and tlie sea is 
 flowing through it. Fishing-smacks flock like gulls around the 
 base of the promontory. 
 
 The junk is an odd-looking aftair. It lies low in the water. 
 All its timbers are quaintly carved, and it is painted as gayly as if 
 designed for a regatta. Practically speaking, it is a double-ender, 
 and its awkwardly-rigged and ill-shapen rudder distinguishes it 
 
 - ' - .'% 
 
 ^lt; 
 
 4 
 
 •1 
 
 CIIINEHK FISniMa-ajUACE. 
 
 4 > 
 
 from all other sea-craft whicli have been built since Noah's ark. 
 On either side of the bow there is never wanting a huge eye. We 
 asked a Chinese seaman the significance of that ornament. lie 
 promptly replied, " Junk no have eye, no can seel" It is a re- 
 niiirkab'e coincidence that not only the boats but the houses of the 
 Ahiska Iiulians are furnibhed with eyes. Althougii China has 
 never been a maritiuie i)ower, and is not likely soon to become 
 
 U 
 
120 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 one, it has an internal na\Hlgation wliich has never been and never 
 can be equalled elsewhere. 
 
 Personal coincidences thicken. This morning, one of the 
 marines communicated to Admiral Rodg3rs, through the offices of 
 William Freeman, that he was not unknown to Mr. Seward. The 
 admiral promptly instituted an inquiry, which resulted in the 
 marine's coming to the quarter-deck, and being recognized there 
 by Mr. Seward as a soldier who served on the escort which attended 
 him through Alaska last year, and that his knowledge of Mr. 
 Seward had begun in his having been put on guard at his house in 
 "Washington, on ilie night of the President's assassination. Need 
 we say that he was glad to renew his acquaintance with one who 
 had been a defender on two such memorable occasions ? 
 
 Steamer Shan Timg, October 26^A. — Bearing westward from 
 Shan Tung, we after some hours entered the harbor of Chee-foo, 
 nearly surrounded by hills. Thus far we have seen nothing sub- 
 lime, nor even any thing picturesque in China. The northern 
 shores are only more pleasing than those about Shanghai, because 
 they are slightly elevated and slightly undulating. Naked and 
 barren at this season, one might well mistake the region about 
 Chee-foo for the California coast. 
 
 The United States war-steamer Benicia saluted us as we entered 
 the harbor, and her officers came on board. Chee-foo is one of the 
 last-opened ports of China. The foreign settlement numbers only 
 one hundred. The native population is variously estimated at 
 twenty-five thousand to eighty thousand. The agent of the Steam- 
 Navigation Company received us on a well-constructed stone wharf, 
 and has entertained us in the kindest manner. We have made 
 an excursion in chairs to an eminence that overlooks the town 
 and harbor, and found there a ruin, but were unable to deter- 
 mine whether the structure was a temple, an observatory, or a 
 watch-tower. From its dilapidated walls wo counted two hundred 
 vessels of all sorts and sizes anchored in the bay, although Chee-foo 
 confines itself exclusively to the coast-trade. In this trade, pressed 
 tea prepared for the Eussian market in the form of bricks, and 
 
 scarcely more 
 native grape c 
 China, but no 
 Descending 
 beach. Chee-f 
 of Cliina. The 
 which was buil 
 The gentlei 
 and been furnig 
 the beach. Th 
 tanced by the c( 
 to learn that th( 
 gees, suitable fo 
 We left Che. 
 we " caught it." 
 sand-colored. 1 
 ridges thirty or 
 continually in tl; 
 steamer rocked, 
 friends who wen 
 they counted tw 
 another in sixt^ 
 Lieutenant Whe 
 waggery. But i 
 made this solem 
 nearly in articu 
 Seward, with fee 
 stanchions at th 
 packed, wedged, 
 Mr. Seward, " is 
 of yours ? " " ]S 
 usual gravity, ' 
 " Captain," said 
 this ndliiiir a cl 
 captain, " she on 
 of the Colorado' 
 
A STORM AT SEA. 
 
 121 
 
 scarcely more mitritious, is tlie chief article. A large and delicious 
 native grape cultivated here is highly esteemed in all the cities of 
 China, but no wine is made. 
 
 Descending the hill, we enjoyed the walk on the smooth sand- 
 beach. Chec-foo is a summer resort of foreigners — the Newport 
 of China. The bungalows, however, are now vacant. One of them, 
 which was built by a missionary, cost ten thousand dollars. 
 
 The gentlemen of our party, having recovered their land-legs, 
 and been furnished with stout native ponies, made a scrub-race on 
 the beach. The admiral, " who carries weight for age," was dis- 
 tanced by the con ^1-gencral. Our friends at home will be pleased 
 to learn that the whole party furnished themselves here with pon- 
 gees, suitable for wear in the tropics, at twenty-five cents a yard. 
 
 We left Chee-foo at eight in the evening, and at eleven o'clock 
 we " caught it." As we kept near the coast, the sea was shoal and 
 sand-colored. A strong land-wind arose and blew the water into 
 ridges thirty or forty feet high, and our course obliged us to travel 
 continually in the trough. The wind increased to a gale, and the 
 steamer rocked. How she did rock! Those two of our naval 
 friends who were left in a condition to do any thing, declare that 
 tlicy counted twenty-four rollings of the steamer from one side to 
 another in sixty seconds. It must be confessed, however, that 
 Lieutenant Wheeler and Mr. PlUsbury arc somewhat suspected of 
 waggery. But it muct also be remembered that, at the time they 
 made this solenm declaration, they supposed themselves to be very 
 nearly in articulo mortis. Only the admiral kept his feet, Mr. 
 Seward, with feet braced, being lashed in his chair to strong iron 
 stanchions at the centre of the middle deck. The ladies were 
 packed, wedged, and wadded in their berths. " Admiral," asked 
 Mr. Seward, " is this rolling and tumbling a customary experience 
 of yours ? " " No," answered the admiral with not less than his 
 usual gravity, " this vessel has a motion entirely unknown to me." 
 " Captain," said Mr. Seward to the master of the Shan Tung," is 
 tills rolling a chronic habit of your ship ? " " No," replied the 
 cai)tain, " she only practises it in the Gulf of Pe-chee-lee." Most 
 of the Colorado's marines, and all the musicians except two, were 
 
 'it '4*1 
 
 
 31 
 
122 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 helpless. Notliing that ■was loose remained in place; furniture, 
 trunks, bngs, and boxes, bundles of pongee and baskets of Chee-foo 
 grapes, went sliding and jamming and imnching, backward and 
 forward, and every way, until our pretty dancing-room gave a 
 heterogeneous clattering worse than a seance of the Davenport 
 brothers. In all this noise, confusion, and danger, it may well be 
 imagined there was no sleep at night, no breakfast in the morning, 
 and no lunch at noon. The storm abated and the sea began to 
 subside at three o'clock. At four, the good admiral required such 
 of the musicians as were sound or convalescent, to play selections 
 of Oifenbach, by way of enticing sea-sick passengers from their 
 state-rooms. But even "La Belle Ilelene" and "La Grande Du- 
 chesse " alike failed in this sad and trying emergency. There was 
 neither talking, nor dining, nor wining, until we dropped anchor 
 at nine o'clock in the open roadstead of Taku. Here in that road- 
 stead we are now, waiting for the tide to carry us over the bar at 
 the mouth of the Pei-ho River. 
 
 There is little show of commerce about us. As yet we see no 
 land, and only a dozen vessels, like our own, riding at anchor. We 
 are having a first experience of cold. The mercury has fallen to 
 50°. 
 
 Ten o'clock. — Wc have li- jd. The pilot has come on board. 
 The musicians are p\'iying their notes, and we are writing up 
 ours. We ho]ie that nie dance which we have left for that purpose 
 will keep on till the tide changes. 
 
 Mouth of the Pei-ho, 
 of Rivers. — Cliii 
 Tlic City of Tiei 
 inals.— A Messer 
 
 Pei-ho Rive 
 morning, havin, 
 draws twelve fe 
 have come safeb 
 native cities of 
 Europe in Chinal 
 selves to us. ll 
 tied. Tiiough til 
 have proved vel 
 wliich prevent til 
 hundred and fif| 
 iwui make. Thj 
 possible for us 
 tliroiigh whicli y\ 
 a population of 
 more busy villad 
 consists of thro 
 business is the A 
 deposited in larl 
 cliannel is crow( 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 UP THE PEI-HO RIVER. 
 
 Mouth of the Pei-ho. — Chinese Forts. — American fJuns. — The Most Crooked nnd Moan 
 of Rivers. — Chinese Dogs. — A Misunderstanding. — Captain Wang. — Our Flotilla. — 
 Tlic City of Tien-Tsin. — A.^pect of the Country. — Our Boat Life. — Absence of Ani- 
 mals. — A Messenger from Peking. — A Chinese Trcder. — Tung-Chow. 
 
 Pei-ho li'iver, October 27th. — We passed the bar at three this 
 morning, having only twelve feet water, while the Shan Tung 
 draws twelve feet four inches. Thanks to the sandy bottom, we 
 have come safely over. With the exception of our peeps into the 
 native cities of Shanghai and Chee-foo, we have so far only seen 
 Europe in China, N^ow China and the Chinese have opened them- 
 selves to us. Taku is the outer port of Tien-Tsin, and is forti- 
 fied. Though the works are not remarkable for construction, they 
 liiive proved very eftective defences by reason of the marshes 
 wliich prevent the near approach of an enemy. We counted one 
 hundred and fifty guns in position, some of which are of Amer- 
 ican make. The forts seem not strongly garrisoned. It was im- 
 possible for us to ascertain whether the wide-spread settlements 
 through which we passed after crossing the bar, and which contain 
 a population of half a million, are one great city, or a hundred or 
 more busy villages. But we learn that, statistically regarded, Taku 
 consists of throe villages, Taku, Siku, and Sangku. A leading 
 Inisincss is the trade in salt, which is made on the sea-shore, and 
 <leposited in largo (piantities on the banks of the rivers. The 
 cliannel is crowded with junks, while only one, two, or three for- 
 
 r 1 
 
 t ■ 
 
 
 
124 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 dign vessels ascend or descend it daily. We might well know that 
 we have attained a higher latitude. The dwelling-houses here are 
 built, not of wood, but of adobe walls, with chimneys ; the streets 
 as narrow as those of old Shanghai. As we advance up the river, 
 we can distinguish farms, with spacious and comfortable dwellings 
 and out-buildings. The Pei-lio seems the most crooked and mean 
 of all rivers. Only such a people as the Chinese could have made 
 such a stream a channel of continental commerce. It is about as 
 wide in most places as our steamer is long. It flows over alluvial 
 sands ; the water is used for irrigating the flat plain. To us, who 
 are novices here, the cultivation seems successful, and even marvel- 
 lous ; nevertheless, we are informed that this is the most barren 
 region of the empire. The cereals and vegetables are not diflPerent 
 from those of New York and Pennsylvania, though more various. 
 They have white, tulip-shaped cabbages, turnips of many kinds and 
 sizes, peas, lentils, wheat, Indian-c<" i, oats, millet, beans, lettuce, 
 and onions ; occasionally rice, potatoes, and sweet-potatoes. 
 
 • Approaching Tien-Tsin, we find the old familiar obstruction of 
 the "overslaugh" near Albany. The boat goes around every five 
 minutes, and sometimes, at a bend in liie river, suddenly converts 
 itself into a bridge. It is doubtful whether we shall reach Tieii- 
 Tsin until another flood. To increase our discomfort, it began to 
 rain at one o'clock at night, and it still pours, and the mercury in 
 both thermoineter and barometer is falling. 
 
 Tien-Tsin, October 2Sth. — Persevering all night, through all 
 obstacles, we reached and grappled "the Bund" of the foreign set- 
 tlement at noon. Here steam-navigation ends. Wc must sto]i and 
 see what next. Tien-Tsin seems %vortliy to be the entrepot of 
 foreign commerce, as it is at the head of inland navigation. To 
 estimate its trade, one has but to look at the flags of all nations on 
 the merchantmen and men-of-M'ar, in the crowded and contracted 
 harbor. These flags were successively dipped and our own na- 
 tional steamship, the Ashuelot, saluted us as we worked our way 
 Lu the wharf. The French naval connnandcr and the British and 
 Eussian consuls have already come on board with friendly greet- 
 
A MELANCHOLY NIGHT. 
 
 12c 
 
 mgs 
 
 The foreign settlement is small, but, contrasted witli the 
 native suburbs, makes a very respectable appearance. 
 
 October 'iSitli. — "We have had a jar in our party. AVith dismal, 
 cold weather, and with muddy streets on the land, we necessarily 
 remain on board. 
 
 A Strauss waltz, suggestive of a dance, was struck up by the 
 band after dinner, probably at the request of the younger officers 
 at the foot of the table. Kenecting on the excitement produced at 
 this moment, not orly in China, but throughout the world, by the 
 recent massacre of Christians in this very place, Mr. Seward remon- 
 strated against the festivity. The young people reluctantly acqui- 
 esced, but they are consoled this morning by his admission that we 
 had a noche triste. 
 
 We have had a busy day. The gentlemen have secured a fleet 
 of flat-bottomed sail-boats with crews, in all numbering one hun- 
 dred men. All the party have been engaged in preparing stores 
 and packing, intending <" > embark this evening. Meanwhile, Mr. 
 Seward, with the admiral, has been entertained with an inspection 
 of the Ashuelot. 
 
 S«j»r-il 
 
 «5i,.- 
 
 '■• 
 
 «*'■ 
 
 if 
 
 »:•;■■ 
 
 =f. 
 
 ten 
 
 o. 
 
 
 <-« 
 
 K! 
 
 
 r 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 1 
 
 c 
 
 ■1 
 
 «■■ 
 
 
 I 
 
 CmXESE DOOS, 
 
126 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 Tlie foreigners in China have not forgotten, among the humani- 
 ties, tlieir interest in the canine race. Dogs of every kind have 
 come on board, as if appreciating the sympathies of civilization — 
 the Newfoundland dog, the Australian hound, the Russian blood- 
 hound, and the universal black-and-tan terrier ; but, far prettier 
 than all those very familiar friends, arc a pair of spaniels, purely 
 bred from Chinese stock, which have come in the staff of the Rus- 
 sian consul-general. They are small, and of a pinkish-brown, 
 without a black hair. There is a tradition that Charles I. received 
 the progenitor of this race, in England, as a present from the Em- 
 j>eror of China. It is that identical dog lying on the hearth-rug 
 that Horace Walpole describes as a " plumy wreath." 
 
 Ten o'clock at night. — 
 
 " The best-laid schemes o' mice and men 
 Gang aft aglee." 
 
 The boats did not come to time. This afternoon a chair was 
 provided for Mr. Seward, and a Mongolian pony for each one of 
 the suite who chose. This animal, like our Canadian pony, has 
 great strength and endurance. Supposing that the plan for the ex- 
 cursion was fully understood by all, Mr. Seward went ashore and 
 sat down in his chair, on "the Bund." At this moment, some one 
 asked Mr. George F. Seward if he were going to ride. He an- 
 swered, " No." On this, the inquirer informed Admiral Rodgcrs 
 tliat Mr. Seward was engaged, and would not ride. The whole 
 party at this moment galloped off, leaving Mr. Seward sitting in 
 his chair, surrounded by his eight coolie bearers, not one of whom 
 spake or understood a word of English, They waited for orders in 
 Chinese, which, although Mr. Seward could give in English, there 
 was no person to interpret. 
 
 At the iirst turn in the road, the equestrians looked back for 
 their chief. He was not there. Inquiry being made, the admiral 
 answered that Mr. Seward was not coming out. This satisfied 
 them for the time, but on further reflection a doubt arose whether 
 he had so capriciously changed his purpose. So the whole party, 
 
 under apprehen 
 
 rescue. They fc 
 
 pressing on wit] 
 
 Wii&fanxjMs, wi 
 
 tombs and nogle 
 
 which stretches 
 
 river. The wall 
 
 French invasion. 
 
 a glacis twenty f( 
 
 sures, which imp 
 
 that the work w( 
 
 Ingh estimate of 
 
 be, the glacis fur 
 
 through the j^ara 
 
 martello towers. 
 
 The Chinese 1 
 know how to imp 
 Attracted by masi 
 plain to examine 
 and overlooking i 
 verted into a po' 
 one. Miles arour 
 
 Adieu, Shan 
 your Teelierche di 
 certs and balls, yo 
 and your tuniblii 
 Captain Ilawes? 
 Hail to tliee, 
 squadron, with tl 
 tow-rope ! Hail, 
 "V^iatever perils a 
 least against a wal 
 Shall we dcscr 
 registered the vest 
 dimensions, and, t 
 one cabin, less tha 
 
THE PEI-IIO SQUADRON. 
 
 127 
 
 under apprehensions for his safety, returned on their track for a 
 rescue. They found him at a distance of half a mile from tlie Bund, 
 pressing on "witli liis eight coolies and a mounted guide. After 
 this faux j)as, we passed over a broad plain covered with crumbling 
 tombs and neglected graves, and then came to a high outer wall, 
 which stretches across from the Chinese city to the bank of the 
 river. The wall was erected during the last combined British and 
 French invasion. It is an earthwork with a narrow, shallow moat, 
 a glacis twenty feet wide, and a frail parapet with frequent embra- 
 sures, which impart to it an ornamental effect. The admiral says 
 that the work Avonld be of no use as a defence, but he has not a 
 high estimate of Chinese military science. However that may 
 bo, the glacis furnished us a delightful ride, with beautiful vistas, 
 through the parapets, across the bastions and under the crowning 
 martello towers. 
 
 The Chinese know as well how to utilize their temples as vre 
 know how to improve our churches for hospitals in time of war. 
 Attracted by massive portals and high outer walls, we crossed the 
 plain to examine a Buddhist temple, standing on a slight elevation 
 and overlooking the river. AVe found it had been long ago con- 
 verted into a powder-magazine. Certainly the place is a fitting 
 one. Miles around it is one vast suburb of the dead. 
 
 Adieu, Shan Tung, with your morning martial promenades, 
 your recherche dinners, your quiet card-parties, your evening con- 
 certs and balls, your rollings, your pitchings, and your groundings 
 and your tumblings ! When shall we see another seaman like 
 Captain Ilawes? 
 
 Hail to thee, flat-bottomed boat number four of the Pei-ho 
 squadron, with thy single main-sail, thy four poles, and thy one 
 tow-rope ! Hail, Captain Wang, and your meek and patient four ! 
 "Wliatever perils await us under your conduct, we are insured at 
 least against a watery grave. 
 
 Shall we describe the flotilla? The admiral has numbered and 
 registered the vessels, one, two. three, up to fifteen. They vary in 
 dimensions, and, though coarsely, are all stronglv built. Each has 
 one cabin, less than five feet wide at tlic floor, and one raised bunk 
 
 
 
 
128 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 beliind it for sleeping-room. It has cost some care to distribute 
 among the boats a party so hirge and so very much mixed. Num- 
 ber one leads. It bears the Stars and Stripes, and carries the 
 United States consul-general, Mrs. Seward, and their Chinese ser- 
 vants. Number two, without colors, bears the tM'o other ladicis ; 
 and number three is the flag-ship of Admiral Rodgers, his secretary, 
 and servants, and floats the national ensign taken from the Colorado. 
 Number four, under a broader flag, carries Mr. Seward and tiiu 
 
 BOATS ON THE PEI-HO MVEB. 
 
 faithful Freeman. It is the largest ship in the fleet, thirty feet long, 
 and twelve feet beam. Of the whole fleet, only number four has 
 a stove, and this is borrowed from the Ashuelot. Its cabin, there- 
 fore, is our writing-room. Wang tells us this boat is an inheritance 
 from his father, and has been in constant use flfty-four years. 
 Number five carries Mr. Middleton and Mr. Eodman ; numbers 
 seven and eight, officers of the admiral's stafl"; number nine is the 
 dining-room of the party ; numbers ten, eleven, twelve, thirteen, 
 
 fourteen, and fl 
 and baggage. 
 
 Each boat 1 
 forward deck, m 
 closed with upj 
 and full of ere^ 
 The boat has a 
 cabin-door, on m 
 upon a bamboo-i 
 resort to poles, 
 selves to the ban 
 ing the towing-1: 
 on the other en 
 nessed, they dm 
 coolies, and we 
 and charges, six 
 daylight, and nii: 
 Our naval fri 
 the party use the 
 eacli other. The 
 navy-rations, and 
 AVe started a^ 
 the shipping, on 
 the foreign vessel 
 save the Queen, 
 anthems. The fi 
 their flags, and 
 was not doubtful 
 Peking, at this j 
 free from danger. 
 The sorpentin 
 cityofTlen-Tsin, 
 mounted with w. 
 densely inhabited 
 is stated to us her 
 estimate it at half 
 
THE CITY OF TIEN-TSIN". 
 
 129 
 
 fourteen, and fifteen, have on board, the band, the marines, stores, 
 and bagfgagc. 
 
 Each boat has its sunken cabin with a dark liohl under the 
 forward deck, M'hich is occupied by the crew. The cabins are en- 
 dosed witli upright slabs, removable at pleasure. They are old 
 and full of crevices, and exclude neither the rain nor the cold. 
 The boat has a single mast forward of the cabin and l)eforc the 
 cabin-door, on which a small cotton sail is rigged with a single reef, 
 upon a bamboo-spar. When the wind does not serve, the boatmen 
 resort to polos. When they grow tired of this, they betake them- 
 selves to the banks, which are neither paved nor graded. Attach- 
 ing the towing-line to the top of the mast, they nniko a loose knot 
 on the other end, and throw it over their shoulders. Thus har- 
 nessed, they draw the boat up the stream. Each boat has four 
 coolies, and we pay for the whole voyage, including all the costs 
 and charges, six dollars a day for each boat, if we travel only by 
 daylight, and nine dollars if we travel day and night. 
 
 Our naval friends have a mess-boat of their own ; the rest of 
 the party use the dining-room. Of course, these parties entertain 
 each other. The musicians and the marines are supplied with their 
 navy-rations, and the coolies take care of themselves. 
 
 AVe started with a fair wind this morning, and, as we passed 
 the shipping, our band made the acknowledgments we owed to 
 the foreign vessels, by playing first " Hail Columbia," then " God 
 save the Queen," the " Mfirseillaise," and all the other national 
 anthems. The friendly ships and the consulates on shore lowered 
 their flags, and gave us cheers and encouraging salutations. It 
 was not doubtful that the gallant officers regarded our ascent to 
 Peking, at this painful juncture, as an adventure not altogether 
 free from danger. 
 
 The serpentine voyage of three miles brought iis to the Chinese 
 city of Tien-Tsin, enclosed within a stone-wall forty feet high, sur- 
 mounted with watch-towers, and four miles in circuit. Suburbs, 
 densely inhabited, crowd the river on both sides. The population 
 is stated to us here at a million and a half. Travellers gen-jrally 
 estimate it at half a million. "We may well accept the higher figure, 
 
 
 
 
 (4 « 
 
 ^% 
 
130 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 for such a scene of crowded tliou<j;li silent activity wo never saw. 
 Except tlie charred wallt4, broken towers, and sliattered battlements 
 of the Ilonian ('ath<»lic cathedral and convent lately destroyed, 
 there is not one massive or i)retenti(tns strnctnro. Narrow streets 
 divide jiumotonous blocks of one story and two story bnildin<rs. 
 Every small space is iilled with countless, moviiii? nuiltitudos. 
 There is no ferry, but the bridi^e of boats is crowded M'ith a mass 
 of men and boys such as " Fulton Ferry " presents on a holiday. 
 Chinese boats choke the channel. We thought wo never should 
 get through the town, but wo did. AVc saw an army of ten th(ju- 
 sand men, iniantry and cavalry, enter the city as we passed tlio 
 western gate. At a distance the array was imposing, but, as ^\c' 
 iieared it, we discovered a woful lack of uniformity, as well in dress 
 as in arms and equipments. The infantry arm varied from a wooden 
 club of three feet long, to a matchlock with a seven-foot barrel ; 
 the music thoroughly discordant, but the yellow banners were I'ro- 
 quent, gay, and gorgeous. The march was as straggling and dis- 
 orderly as the return of the troops from Bull Hun to AVashingtoii. 
 It is notorious that, since the massacre, the Chinese have been 
 gathering a large army at Tien-Tsin. Foreigners say it is a prep- 
 aration for war ; Chinese official persons, on the contrary, assure 
 us that it is a precaution against further outbreaks here. It is too 
 early, however, for us to s])cak on this exciting topic. On the west 
 side of Tien-Tsin, as on the east, the plain presents a vast aiul 
 cheerless field of sepulture. Leaving this behind us, we come 
 through cultivated fields, with vegetable-gardens hanging over the 
 waters edge. Here wg are planting our stakes and tying u]) for 
 the night, in such order as the admiral directs. lie has posted a 
 guard around us. Ko one passes M'ithout giving the countersign, 
 and each passing hour is called as the hushed night rolls on. It k 
 cold, and we shrink into our cabins to meditate as we may on the 
 strange scenes and men around us. 
 
 Oil ills Pei-Jw, October 30th. — Thanks to our commissary who 
 procured, and thanks to the generous friends at Tien-Tsin mIio 
 lent us the blankets and furs, we have enjoyed a comfortable sleep 
 
AN ANCIENT PAVEMENT 
 
 131 
 
 ill our most uncomfortable of boats. Wu waked in a drizzling 
 rain, the thermometer at 38°. In such an atmosphere, comfort is 
 impossible without exercise, which can only be obtained by walk- 
 iiii;' on the slippery clay banks of the river, for, althongh it is a 
 canal, it has no towin<^-path. The Imperial Canal, the greatest 
 work of that kind in the world, leaves the Pei-lio at Tien-Tsin, 
 crosses the Yellow River, and debouches into the Yang-tse-kiang, 
 l)ut it has lesser slack water and other contrivances, which extend 
 the navigation to Canton. The Pei-ho liiver at Tien-Tsin is navi- 
 gated eighty miles to Tung-Chow, the appointed terminus of our 
 present voyage, which is fifteen miles distant from Peking. 
 
 The country is level and monotonous, but more sterile as wo 
 advance. Although the inhabitants are poor, they seem hardy, 
 busy, and contented. There is no forest as far as the eye can reach, 
 only a few poplars and willows, the natural products of an alluvial 
 soil, kept as shade-trees. It is not easy to discover how the im- 
 mense population procure the fuel necessary in so cold a climate. 
 We bought coal, of an inferior quality, at a large price, at Tien- 
 Tsin. Our coolies, in cooking, burn only dry stalks of Indian-corn. 
 
 While puzzling ourselves over that problem, we discovered 
 f!;reat rafts of timber which choke navigation. Where could this 
 timber have come from ? Could it have come down the stream ? 
 If up the stream, where was it shipped 'i On inquiry, we learn 
 that it is brought across the Gulf of Pe-chee-lee, from the Corean 
 Peninsula. Forbidding as the way and the weather are, we have 
 walked this afternoon many miles. Our promenade was arrested 
 by a marsh which compelled us to make a short cletoiw, and, at a 
 distance of twenty rods from the bank of the river, we found, in the 
 bed of the morass, a pavement forty feet wide and one hundred 
 feet long, of square hewn granite blocks — the first ruin we have 
 thus far seen in our journey. AVho laid that pavement ? When 
 and for what purpose ? AVas it the bottom of an ancient canal ? 
 There were no other traces of such a structure. Losing the pave- 
 ment as it disappeared under the surface, we climbed a knoll fifty 
 rods beyond, and found there a perfectly artistic granite wall, 
 enclosing a large area within which no edifice remains. At one 
 
 ^;:;:t 
 
 
 t1 
 
132 
 
 JAPAN, CIIIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 corner of tlie wall is an arched gateway half in ruins. Stumbling 
 through this passage over broken bricks and stones, we entered the 
 desolate 'jourt. Here we confronted a solid marble shaft, five feet 
 wide and twenty feet high, standing upon the back of a huge 
 tortoise of the same material, having the exact form and proportions 
 of Xaturo, every line of the shell, body, and claws being executed 
 with precision and skill. The middle of the shaft, on both sides, is 
 covered with legends, w^ ile each border from top to bottom is 
 crowded with mythical birds, serpents, and dragons, excpiisitely 
 chiselled. AVe concluded that a temple had once stood here, and 
 that the pavement below had served as the grand approach. Why 
 had it been suti'ered to tall into ruin 'i Perhaps we may learn more 
 
 as we go ou. 
 
 October Z\st, Theri'ometer 48° Fahrenheit.- —'V^q have made 
 half our voyage. A. range of mountains locms up before us in the 
 west. What mountains? They must be the Altai range. AVc 
 have described Mr. Seward's boat. Would not our friends at home 
 like to know how nicely the ladies have iitted up theirs? It is not, 
 indeed, as magnificent as Cleopatra's barge, but there is no Antony 
 on the shores. Thoy l.^ivr a carpet of gray goat-skins, and with 
 superfluous scarlet bl^'.nkeJs have extemporized a tapestry, which 
 effectually covers the ci.inks, .nd excludes the wind. The dais, 
 two feet high, M'hich servos for a bed, has a drapery of purple and 
 gray rugs. Thr^ir dressing-table^ which is a portnumteau on eiul, 
 is covered with a gay shawl, and a mirror four inches square, with 
 a gilt-frame, borrowed from the Ashuelot, hangs above it. For 
 Bofhs, they use trunks s]iread with a Avhite Thibetian fur great- 
 coat, which ]\[r. Seward has kindly contributed. The access to this 
 elegant saloon, M-hich is eight feet s<juare, is not particularly con- 
 venient — an aperture in the front, two feet square, with a descent 
 of three feet, without steps or ladder. In going in one stoops and 
 steps backward; in coming out, one stix.ps, and is ]»ulled u]»\var(I. 
 Our habit of travel is settled. The fleet moves, or is suj)posed to 
 mo^-e, at dawn. We are served with hot tea and a biscuit, witli the 
 thermometer somewhere between freczinir and -40°. AYe draw 
 
CHINESE AGRICULTURE. 
 
 133 
 
 water from the river, for the toilet, in preference to that which was 
 frozen durinii; the niijht in our pitchers. We make ourselves warm 
 1)V a walk of two or three miles. In these walks, we stare and 
 wonder at the uncouth ploughs, the awkward tanning-mills, and 
 
 CIJINKSE A<iUI(i:LTURI!. 
 
 other rude farming inii»lements, and the e(]uallj strange furin-houscs 
 and dwellings which we ])ass. 
 
 What seems straiiirer than any thing else is the ahsencc of 
 domestic; animals. Horses, cows, and oxen, are indeed sometimes 
 Been at the ])lough, hut generally the ground is worked with spade 
 
 and hoe. iso wheeled vehicle, except rarely a cart, with a mean 
 10 
 
 ^7f^«M 
 
 ti 
 
 to 
 i 
 
 rl 
 
 ' i 
 I 
 
134 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COOUIN CHINA. 
 
 calash, drawn by a horse, a mule, or oxen, is seen. Forty sheep hero 
 are a fortune. Mr. Bergh's sensibilities would be sorely tried if he 
 could see the burdens and labors imposed on the ass. The hogs arc 
 " black as the ace of spades," about as thin, and more scarce than 
 pheasants. Sometimes we take one side of the river, and then 
 cross to the other. Xot unfrequently, by the intervention of head- 
 land and promontory, we lose sight of our little fleet, or, finding it 
 in disorder, mistake number two for number four, or the admiral's 
 flag for the consul-general's. Coming in from these walks, we 
 gather round Mr. Seward's little stove, read or write, and talk over 
 the alarms of the night and the incidents of the morning. AVe 
 breakfast at eleven, and dine at five. Our stores are chiefly foreign. 
 As we neither know how to procure nor how to prepare the Chinese 
 food, the commissariat gives us coftee from Mocha, sausages from 
 Bologna, biscuit and porter from England, peas from France, sar- 
 dines from Italy, cheese from Chautauqua, butter from Goshen, ami 
 oysters from Baltimore, with wines from all countries in the world, 
 except China. Our boatmen, "heathen Cliinee" though they arc, 
 have l)ecome devoted to us, and, when they see our long waiting 
 for breakfast, they kindly ofter to share with us their little menu 
 of Indian-corn bread, wheaten fritters, and cabbage-soup. After 
 dinner, we are weary enough to sink into our hard bunks, and culd 
 enough to draw over us our furs. The boats tie up very i>unctunlly 
 at ten o'clock, and it is by no means safe or pleasant to clanibei 
 over the decks from one to the other. 
 
 Novemhev Isf. — The November which Ave have dreaded has 
 met us here in China, just as it would probably have come down 
 on us if we had remained at home. Its breath, often cold and 
 clammy there, is no warmer or drier here. In four days we have 
 had not one gleam of sunshine. We might well imagine ourselves 
 on the St. Lawrence, so similar is the vegetation of this sandy ]ilaiii. 
 One beautiful feature, however, of the St. Lawrence is missinir 
 here. Instead of the gorgeous autumnal forest, we have only a few 
 scattered leaves, and those pale-yellow or colorless. AVe have to- 
 day added fifteen coolies to our marine. 
 
 Mr. Sewar 
 his crew quic 
 tinguished thi 
 notice that sto' 
 dangerous luxi 
 
 Tung-CJiou 
 to say, a peric 
 mounted mess 
 the Eussian n 
 gratulations. 
 aware of our i 
 taking hold up« 
 haven durini; tl 
 which the grea 
 sun at last reler 
 cheerful. The 
 men and boys, 
 tering wooden- 
 blouses — all pai 
 suggesting man 
 tense curiosity 
 As they peep ai 
 boats, staring w 
 and complexion 
 They arc never 
 the motive, the_ 
 Every manner < 
 cabbages, and ca 
 of the customer 
 ]iasteboard quiv 
 from it instead 
 longe each otlie 
 l)n)wn bird, sin; 
 seeming a recon 
 to a gentle pure 
 
AT TUNG-CIIOW. 
 
 135 
 
 Mr. Seward's cabin has jnst taken fire, but Captain AVang and 
 his crew quickly dropped their buckets into the river, and ex- 
 tinguished the flame. Travellers who come after us may take 
 notice that stoves on the Pei-ho are not only an expensive but a 
 dangerous luxury. 
 
 Tung-Chow, November 2d. — At a distance of six miles, that is 
 to say, a period of four hours, before the end of our voyage, a 
 mounted messenger, coming from the United States nunister and 
 the Eussian minister at Peking, met us on the river with con- 
 gratulations. In the middle of the dark, rainy night we became 
 aware of our arrival at Tung-Chow by the noise of our tackle 
 taking hold upon the bank. We saw nothing of this long-desired 
 haven during the night, though the unintelligible jargon of a crowd 
 which the great arrival attracted rendered sleep impossible. The 
 sun at last relents. The scene this morning, though grotesque, is 
 cheerful. The nocturnal crowd has swollen to a dense mass of 
 men and boys, all wearing large, broad-brimmed straw hats clat- 
 tering wooden-soled shoes, and thickly-padded and quilted blue 
 blouses — all parts of the costume showing the efl'ects of wear, and 
 suggesting many changes in past ownership. They manifest in- 
 tense curiosity to learn the secret of our large and inqwsing flotilla. 
 As they peep and peer through every aperture and crevice of our 
 boats, staring with narrow, wondering eyes at our strange costume 
 and complexion, our toilet has not been made without difticulty. 
 They are nevertheli ^ quiet and respectful, and, whatever may bo 
 the motive, they seem desirous to please, to serve, and to oblige. 
 Every manner of small trafiic is going on among them. Bread, 
 cal)bagos, and cakes, were sold or gambled for according to the taste 
 of the customer. A " va2:rom"-lookincr fellow flourishes a painted 
 pasteboard quiver, and turns it u])side down, and chopsticks fall 
 from it instead of arrows. Condjative sparrows and canaries chal- 
 lenge each other through their cages, and a boy carries a ])rctty 
 brown bird, smaller than the oriole or the mocking-bird, and which, 
 seeming a reconciled cai)tive, sings sweetly out a merry invitation 
 to a gentle purchaser. 
 
 
 
 < 
 
 1 
 
 » 
 
 ;| 
 
 r ' 
 
 4 
 
 ■■J 
 
 *' 
 
 a 
 
 '■■ 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 • i 
 
 u 
 
136 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCfllN CHINA. 
 
 The Pei-ho forms a basin thirty or forty yards wide, wlnqh is 
 here crowded with little junks or boats, most of which are used for 
 dwellings. The town stands on a terrace which rises gently from 
 the river. There is no dock, wharf, or storehouse, on the bank be- 
 tween the river and the terrace. The uncovered sewage of the city 
 has worn the sloping bank into channels, and between these chan- 
 nels are promiscuous deposits of merchandise and heaps of compost, 
 all alike prepared for shipping. The houses on the terrace are low, 
 but many of them have quite large courts. Their fronts are covered 
 with fanciful sign-boards. At a bend of the river before us rises 
 a lofty pagoda of seven stories ; the first structure of is form 
 which we have seen. We wonder that it is not more extensively 
 copied in the West, and especially why it is not adopted in place 
 of our unshapely and cheerless light-house. The name ixigoda is 
 in common use, but dagoha is in use also. A distinction is made, 
 however. AVlien the structure is small, and is enclosed in an area 
 with a temple, it is called dagoba. On the other hand, when it 
 stands by iisolf, itj design is for ornament more than use ; it is 
 then called pagoda. A learned Chinese authority tells us tl.at 
 every structure of the kind, whether pagoda or dagoba, contains 
 relies of some saint or martyr. 
 
 Say what men may, there is a power in gilded epaulets and 
 buttons. Our naval friends, strong in that power, opened an easy 
 way for us through the inquisitive multitude ; but, in climbing the 
 slimy bank of the terrace, we encountered an obstacle which neither 
 gold lace nor buttons could displace. This was a caravan of thirty 
 laden camels, in single file, as they always move, just beginniny- 
 their long journey over the steppes of Russia to Moscow. The 
 imperturbable beasts, tliickly covered with long, scraggy hair, trod 
 firmly but slowly with their spreading, padded feet, lleaching a 
 terrace, we were as yet only in a suburb. After many eflbrts, wo 
 were obliged to give up the exploration. Every street is a dcc|i. 
 broad gutter, now rendered impassable by mud and rain. We re- 
 turned to tbc front, and contented ourselves with looking into llie 
 dwellings and shops. The occupants wore neatly dressed, seemed 
 intelligent, came out of their doors, and saluted us, tenderiiitf 
 
 their hands ar 
 
 us, with a po! 
 
 dered by dwc 
 
 we are from ti 
 
 hanging on tl 
 
 of the globe. 
 
 Moscow, and IS 
 
 with sugar crj 
 
 cigarettes. Tl 
 
 numerating bal 
 
 all neatly and 
 
 spectable assist 
 
 us his pretty i 
 
 " chin-cliinned ' 
 
 then read on h 
 
 is at once one ( 
 
 the sale of teas i 
 
 dining-room on 
 
 Every thing has 
 
 and sedan-caair 
 
 array on the bai 
 
 Americans, besi( 
 
 ants. Captain \ 
 
 on low donkeys 
 
 cavalry display, 
 
 uur chairs for Pc 
 
A POLITE CHINESE. 
 
 137 
 
 their hands and inviting ns to enter. One, quite distingue, bowed 
 us, with a politeness that was Irresistible, into a wide cpurt, bor- 
 dered by dwellings and shops. He indicated a knowledge that 
 we are from the West by pointing to a Russian chart of Europe, 
 hanging on the wall. On this we made a rough Mercator sketch 
 of the globe. lie at once marked on it the sites Tung-Chow, 
 Moscow, and New York. He served delicious tea, quickly prepared, 
 with sugar crystallized into rock-candy to sweeten it, and Russian 
 cigarettes. Then he showed us his money-scales, strings of cash, 
 numerating balls^ bills of exchange, receipts, and books of account, 
 all neatly and carefully arranged. He called in his tidy and re- 
 spectable assistants and clerks, and with special ^Jde introduced to 
 us his pretty son and heir of six years. "VVe were bowed and 
 " chin-chinned " by our host with his whole family and retinue, and 
 then read on his sign-board inscriptions which told that the place 
 is at once one of entertainment for travellers, and an agency for 
 the sale of teas in the Russian trade. We breakfasted in ou? naval 
 (lining-room on the river at eight. It is now eleven o'clock. 
 Every thing has been brought ashore, and has been packed in carts 
 and sedan-cnairs. Ponies, nmles, and donkeys, stand in formal 
 array on the bank, for the whole party, which numbers forty-seven 
 Americans, besides Chinese servants, drivers, waiters, and attend- 
 ants. Captain Tilden, on horseback, and his tall marines mounted 
 on low donkeys, make, it must be confessed, a rather ludicrous 
 cavalry display, but perhaps not ineffective for China. We take 
 our chairs for Peking. 
 
 1.1 
 
 
 r 
 
 I:.:'* 
 
CHAPTER YI. 
 
 ARRIVAL AT PEKING. 
 
 Passing tlirough Tung-Chow. — Good Behavior of the People. — The Road to Peking. — 
 A Dangerous Highway. — Daniel Webster and Jolin Adams. — A Review of Our 
 Party. — A Grotesque Procession. — The Eastern Gate of Peking. — The Separation 
 of the Party. — Anxiety for Mr. Seward. — In Woful Plight. — An Explanation. — 
 Arrival at the U. S. Legation. 
 
 PeTcing, Novemher 3d. — The Government at Peking, apprised 
 of Mr. Seward's coming, had sent forward two intelligent mandarins 
 to attend him to the capital. These officers at Tung-Chow sent up 
 a messenger to report the array and progress of the partj, in order 
 that arrangements might be made for its safe and proper entrance 
 into the city. 
 
 "What could be more gratifying lo our national and perfonal 
 pride than the prospect, thus opened to us, of a kind and dis- 
 tinguished reception ? We took our way up the shelving levee, hut 
 without a road or path. We went a long distance down and across 
 the ditches, which teemed with noxious vapors arising from the 
 vegetable merchandise and offal of the city. At length our man- 
 darins brought us up from the river's edge into bustling lanes, 
 varying from five to twelve feet wide. The population gathered 
 to see a procession so unique, and probably to them imposinir. 
 After a full half-mile, we descended into a broad ditch, filled with 
 water reekingly offensive — a treacherous path for pedestrians, but 
 Chinese chair-bearers, like Chinese beasts, are sure footed. AVe 
 passed through an arch, under a high wall, which stands on tlie 
 
 bank of a moat 
 
 ing the city ii 
 
 inner side of tl 
 
 than eighty th( 
 
 getting throng] 
 
 the gates and i 
 
 low, cheap, an 
 
 experience, ho 
 
 people betrayet 
 
 to the Chinese 
 
 understood Mr 
 
 his white hair, 
 
 we do not kno\ 
 
 him, as he pass( 
 
 ing from the fa] 
 
 distant, some sa 
 
 road, built threi 
 
 wide, and tweni 
 
 inundation. T 
 
 blocks four or fi 
 
 These blocks W( 
 
 clamps, so as to 
 
 elements have 1 
 
 that it cannot b( 
 
 with comfort an 
 
 through the san 
 
 this dangerous 
 
 "Admiral R 
 side by side on 
 Mr. Webster wi 
 '' Mr. Webster st 
 iug, ]\[r. Adams 
 a very old house 
 landlord does nd 
 " this road give 
 I have seen in ( 
 
ADAMS AND WEBSTER. 
 
 i;39 
 
 bank of a moat. We should have thought that wc were now leav- 
 ing the city instead of entering it, if the ditch had been on the 
 inner side of the wall. The city contains within the walls not less 
 than eighty thousand inhabitants. Hours must have been spent in 
 getting through it, had not a military or municipal force met us at 
 the gates and cleared the way. The streets were lanes, the houses 
 low, cheap, and closely crowded together, as at Tien-Tsin. Our 
 experience, however, in passing, was particularly pleasing. The 
 people betrayed nothing of the hate and jealousy which arc ascribed 
 to the Chinese by the Europeans in the open ports. "Whether they 
 understood Mr. Seward's public character, or were impressed by 
 his white hair, white Thibetian great-coat, and black Thibetian cap, 
 we do not know, but the entire population, young and old, saluted 
 him, as he passed, with unmistakable signs of veneration. Emerg- 
 ing from the farther gate, we came on the direct road to Peking, 
 distant, some say, twenty-five miles, others say twelve miles. This 
 road, built three hundred years ago, is an embankment forty feet 
 ■wide, and twenty feet above the plain, which is always subject to 
 inundation. The whole width has been paved with hewn granite 
 blocks four or five feet long, two feet wide, and eight inches thick. 
 These blocks were originally jointed closely and fastened with iron 
 clamps, so as to leave no crevice or unevenness of surface, but the 
 elements have long since deranged and disloeated the pavement, so 
 that it cannot be travelled now either by wheeled vehicles or animals 
 with comfort and safety. The horsemen and tarts prefer to flounder 
 tlu'ough the sands and mud of the plains below, rather than to try 
 this dangerous highway. 
 
 "Admiral Rodgers," said Mr. Seward, as they kept their chairs 
 side bv side on this road, " did vou ever hear of the interview of 
 Mr. AVebster with John Adams, the day before his death ? " " N"o." 
 " Mr, Webster said to the old statesman, ' How do you do, this morn- 
 ing, ]\[r. Adams?' 'Not very Avell,' he replied; 'I am living in 
 a very old house, Mr. Webster, and, from all that I can learn, the 
 landlord does not intend to repair.' " So," continued ]\rr. Seward, 
 " this road gives mo a more painful impression than any thing else 
 I have seen in China — it shows that the Government has no inten- 
 
 
 »•; 
 
 Wi % 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
140 
 
 JAPAN, CIIINxV, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 tioii to repair." The road might be restored as perfectly as before, 
 simply by reversing the blocks, and bringing them together face 
 downward. A clear field now allowed us to take a review and cen- 
 Bus of our party. The advance-guard consisted of twelve Chinese 
 infantry. They wore metallic caps in the shape of Mambrino's 
 helmet, torn by the hand of Don Quixote from the head of the 
 caitiff barber ; the caps fastened by long, yellow tassels. Their 
 uniform consisted of blue nankeen trousers and tunics, on the back 
 of which was a white circular groimd, bearing the inscription in 
 large, black Chinese characters, " Valor." Next came, or, rather, 
 tried to come, a guard of twelve United States marines on foot, but 
 the nimble-footed chair-bearers crowded so closely on them that the 
 entire body took refuge in the rear. Kext followed the four chairs 
 of Mr. Seward, the admiral, and the ladies, M'itli a mounted esc(jrt 
 composed of the gentlemen of the party, civil and military. Then 
 the musicians and seamen mounted promiscuously on horses, mules, 
 and donkeys. The sailors found it equally difficult to keep their 
 seats on tlu; ponies, and their feet above-ground, when riding tlio 
 donkeys. We could not count the baggage-carts, which, under tlio 
 care of AVilliam Freeman, and the protection of a guard f marines, 
 brought up the rear. Having prudently determined not to shock 
 the sensibility of the Chinese by any display of banners or musical 
 instruments, we came along quietly without accident or incident, 
 until, at a distance of a few miles from Peking, we rose upon 
 the fine arch ?d bridge of Palikao, where the battle memorable iu 
 the M-ar of the rJlies against China was fought, and in which the 
 lately-dismlsocd "VVar Minister of France gained his title. Here 
 the native guard halted and ranged themselves at the side of our 
 cortege., presented arms, and, taking respectful leave of Mr, Seward, 
 returned to Tung-Ch av. 
 
 When we had passed the bridge, the sedan-chair occupants, as 
 well as the horsemen, wore seized with a mutual desire for change. 
 The success of either party was not brilliant. The chair-riders, 
 victims of misplaced confidence, tumbled over the heads of the 
 donkeys, and the cruppers of the mules ; the mounted party spilled 
 out of the chairs. The country through which wo passed shows 
 
A CniNESE FU^TERAL. 
 
 141 
 
 less a neglect of cultivation than a dilapidation of estates. Half- 
 way on the road, we met a grotesque procession. First, came a 
 band of thirty or forty boys, dressed in scarlet and yellow^ whom 
 we might have mistaken for clowns, bearing staves with fantastic 
 badges of authority. Next, a band of musicians, displaying equal 
 luxury of color, banged and drummed on instruments unlike any 
 thing we had ever seen. Then came an enormous eatafulque, 
 pagoda-shaped, mounted on wheels whose axles just escaped the 
 ground, the exterior covered with scarbt clotli, richly trinmied with 
 gold lace. Within was an elaborately-carved coffin. The vehicle 
 was rolled forward on the rough road by eighty bare-legged coolies. 
 The rank of the dead determines the number of such bearers. 
 Preceding the car was a mournfully-dressed, sad-looking little 
 woman, holding up before her a large, painted wooden doll. This 
 figure represents the wife of the deceased, and is to be buried in the 
 grave with him, as her proxy. The procession showed to us more 
 courtesy than funeral-processions ever show at home — it opened 
 and halted to allow the chairs to pass. 
 
 At last, after five hours' tedious and painful travel from Tung- 
 Chow, we obtained a full view of the great Eastern Gate of Peking, 
 rising above monotonous suburbs, not unlike those of Timg-Chow. 
 Here the pathway on the plain below the embankment was a 
 smooth, dry sand. How could Miss Seward resist the temptation 
 to exchange her chair for a fine Arabian horse, which Mr. Low, the 
 ITnited States minister, had sent down, and so make the entry into 
 the Chinese capital in a suitable manner ? The ride was exhila- 
 rating, and perhaps excited the envy of the less fortunate members 
 of the party. She was attended by two friends, one gentleman 
 on horseback and anoth'-i* on a donkey. The procession reached 
 the suburbs in tolerable order, but here the amusement of the 
 journey ended, and its difficulties and sorrows began. The worn- 
 out paved road, instead of keeping high and dry on the embank- 
 ment, sank fifteen feet below the level of the streets. It had been 
 raining continuously in Peking for three weeks, and the sunken 
 road-bed was covered with mud knee-deep. Villanous Chinese 
 carts, going both ways, crowded the entire path, obliging not only 
 
 m>. >« 
 
 
 » 
 
 t1 
 
142 
 
 JAPAN, CIIIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 the eliiiirs, but the equestrians and pedestrians of tlie party, horses, 
 mules, donkeys, and all, to pick and find their way on the broken, 
 shelving, furi'owed, crowded and every way obstructed bank, be- 
 tween the houses and the road-bed. 
 
 We do not know how nor where the little mounted party last 
 mentioned fell under the guidance of a mute Chinaman on a strouij, 
 fast horse. Pointing, however, to his red cap, either as a mark 
 for them to follow, or as a badge of his authority, he hastened them 
 forward and onward. Only for a short time they saw theii* friends 
 in the chairs coming on, but falling more and more behind. They 
 passed under the great Eastern Gate, too much terrified to study 
 its architecture. They turned into a narrow lane, then by a zigzaf* 
 movement into anotlior, at times crossing broader streets whicii 
 were obstructed with carts, booths, merchandise, and theatres; 
 then again into lanes, dark, deserted, and ruinous. If any one can 
 conceive an obstruction not described, it may be brought into tliis 
 picture. Now they climbed steep, slippery embankments, dashing 
 and splashing against stone posts, sign-boards, and booths, scatter- 
 ing angry passengers, then pitching into nauseous, muddy pits. 
 They not only lost all idea of courses and distances, but also lost 
 sight of our whole column, and were effectually lost by them. It 
 required intense and watchful effort to keep the saddle. Wliat 
 could all this mean ? "Was the mute Chinese guide a decoy, lead- 
 ing into an ambush? "What could be the motive in brino-inj; a 
 stranger and a woman there ? If not a decoy, why were they led by 
 a course so blind and tortuous ? AVhy were they separated from Mr. 
 Seward and our gallant defenders? Perplexed with anxiety for 
 themselves, and even greater anxiety for Mr. Seward and his friends, 
 they halted and beckoned to the red-capped conductor for a parley. 
 Mr. Middleton rode back as nearly as he could over the way he had 
 come, in search of "our absent friends." He rejoined them after a 
 period which seemed an age, and reported that Mr. Seward, nor 
 the admiral, nor man nor woman, nor beast nor baggage, nor any 
 other thing belonging to the party, could be found. Meantime 
 crowds, which their imagination swelled to the entire population of 
 the city, gathared around them in that woful plight. Well might 
 
 tlicy be " in w 
 tion," for, as i 
 and their case 
 was not one v 
 cliecring or ei 
 The mute siffi 
 than this. On 
 are remembere 
 a train of loadt 
 ing at Tung-Cl 
 ward, nor give 
 They grazed ali 
 a wonder how i 
 foot. The oth( 
 temple, which, 
 high above an 
 ings, only variec 
 as it seemed, de 
 now only anxio 
 cicerone, far in 
 the notes of the 
 mounted compa 
 turned a high v 
 spacious open c 
 thirty-seven star 
 tude was even e 
 Miss Ilisley aire 
 he described it, 
 rated from them 
 at once lost all 
 guide except tl 
 Ticn-T.sin, and a 
 veycd by a route 
 by tiie other por 
 and dangerous 
 other times, ac 
 
A DISAGUEEAHLE RIDE. 
 
 143 
 
 they be " in wonder at their case, and be perplexed at their condi- 
 tion," for, as the Arab historian says, "their state was woiiderfn], 
 and their case was extraordinary." Among all these crowds there 
 was not one woman, nor was there a man or boy, who gave one 
 cheering or enconraging or sympathizing word, glance, or sign. 
 The mnte signed to move on. Manifestly, any phice was safer 
 than this. Only two subsequent incidents of that distracted ride 
 are remembered : the first, that in a narrow street they encountered 
 ft train of loaded camels as long as that we had seen in the morn- 
 ing at Tung-Chow. These would move neither forward nor back- 
 ward, nor give room on the right or on the left to let them pass. 
 Tiicy grazed alternately the walls and the beasts, and it is even now 
 a wonder how they escaped being dismounted and trodden under 
 foot. The other incident was a momentary glimpse of a stately 
 temple, which, with blue porcelain roof and gilded dome, towered 
 high above an unbroken expanse of low^, mean, and vulgar dwell- 
 ings, only varied by intervening heaps of ruins. They then plunged, 
 as it seemed, deeper than before into miry pits and squalid masses, 
 now only anxious not to lose sight of the red cap of the mysterious 
 cicerone, fiir in advance, and at the same time listening to catch 
 the notes of the tinkling bells for reassurance that their donkey- 
 mounted companion was not lost. At last, and all at once, they 
 turned a high wall, and entered through a substantial gate-way a 
 spacious open court, over which was waving the constellation of 
 thirty-seven stars and its thirteen red-and-wliite stripes. Their grati- 
 tude was even greater than their surprise at finding Mr. Sew-ard and 
 Miss Risley already at the legation. Ilis adventurous journey, as 
 he described it, had been even more poi-plcxing than theirs. Sepa- 
 rated from them and from the rest of the party, he, like them, had 
 at once lost all knowledge of both, not knowing that he had any 
 cuide except the two mandarins who had accompanied us from 
 Tion-Tsin, and who now trod along side of his chair, as he was con- 
 veyed by a route entirely d liferent from those which had been taken 
 by the other portions of the party, and equally narrow, obstructed, 
 and dangerous. At times, he jostled against camel-caravans ; at 
 other times, against motley, hurrying crowds; now crossing a 
 
 
 
 i 
 t 
 
 ti 
 
144 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COrillX CHINA. 
 
 muddy moat, then scaling the slippery <;lac'is of a t'ro\vnin<; bastion, 
 he oceasioually had a glimpse of the admiral's chair, or Miss Kis- 
 ley's, or of u mounted uuiriue or musician, but these invarial)]y 
 crossed his track, or were going in an opposite direction, lie had 
 his thoughts and his anxieties, lie now said he could never f(jr- 
 give the admiral, or the naval otMcers, or the consul-general, who 
 had suii'ered our carefully-organized and well-armed procession to 
 be broken into fragments, and scattered through the lanes, alleys, 
 and ditches of the semi-barbarian citv. While we were exchanginir 
 these explanations, the remaining fragments of the party, civilians, 
 officers, nuirines, and baggage, not forgetting trusty Freeman, more 
 frightened than all, came so rapidly with their chairs, horses, mides, 
 and donkeys, into the court-yard, that the arrival seemed almost 
 simultaneous, as it certainly was of one accord. 
 
 We soon found out, but not without much inquiry, how it had 
 come to pass that our entrance into the capital, conirary to our ex- 
 pectation, was so irregular and disorderly. The Chinese Govern- 
 ment is at this moment profoundly anxious to prevent a renewal 
 of the popular commotions which have recently culminated in the 
 tragedy of Tien-Tsin. They had been informed, by the messenger 
 whom the mandarins dispatched from Tung-Chow, of the construc- 
 tion and organization of our party. They had stipulated with Mr. 
 Low that our band should not ]>lay along the road, or in the streets 
 of Peking. They had, moreover, cautiously sent forward a com,pc- 
 tcnt number of mounted guides, wearing red caps, with instruc- 
 tions to break up our formidable procession at the Eastern Gate, 
 and to conduct each portion by a different route through the most 
 quiet and obscure parts of the city, to meet only at the legation. 
 
 Mr. Seward now declined, with many thanks, the invitation of 
 the Eussian minister, received before he left home, and we became 
 guests of Mr. Low, who, with true Californian hospitality, would 
 allow no member of the party to find a home outside of the lega- 
 tion. Wearied by the tedious boat-journey from Tien-Tsin, and 
 the fatigues and anxieties of our grand entry into the Chinese capi- 
 tal, we unanimously waived the wassail, wine, and music, oftered 
 us at the legation, and retired to an early rest. 
 
 Asiiect of Peking. — \ 
 ican Chinese, — '. 
 'J'lie Britisli Legi 
 Sen aril's Aiulien 
 A Cliinese Mansi 
 
 Pel'ing, I^oi 
 for table dwell in < 
 long secretary a 
 was occui)icd by 
 it would have be 
 it for the United 
 nor any other pi 
 economically bui 
 After the re 
 need say little o 
 is about one m 
 streets are broa( 
 of highest activi 
 St motions, alwa^ 
 giisting. There 
 exception of an 
 Many of the na 
 stone posts, set 
 preventing intru 
 
CnAPTEK YII. 
 
 RESIDENCE LV PEKLVG. 
 
 Asjicct of Peking;. — Walk on the Wnll. — The Foreif;!! Population of Peking. — Two Anier- 
 iciin Ciiineso. — Native Wares. — The Foreiji;n Ministers. —The Russian Minister.— 
 The British Legation. — Influence of the I'uited States. — The Hall of Seienee. — Mr. 
 Seward's Audience with the Imperial Cabinet. — A Ladies' Day. — Chinese Ladies. — 
 A Chinese Mansion. 
 
 Pehing, Novemher Mh. — The legation is the spacious and com- 
 fortable dwelling which was built by the eminent Dr. AVilliams, so 
 long secretary and interpreter, and not unfreqiiently cJiarge. It 
 was occupied by Mr. Burlingame, and Mr. Seward now agrees that 
 it would have been wise, when it was practicable, to have purchased 
 it for the United States Government. There neither is in Peking, 
 nor any other place, a building so suitable, nor could one be more 
 economically built. 
 
 After the relation of our experience in entering the city, we 
 need say little of the general aspect of Peking. Tlie population 
 is about one million. Differing from other Chinese cities, its 
 streets are broad enough, but dilapidation and ruin mar the scenes 
 of highest activity, while the roadways are everywhere full of ob- 
 structions, always ill-looking, and sometimes nauseous and dis- 
 gusting. There are no sidewalks — seldom a pavement. AVitli the 
 exception of an occasional private lantern, there are no lights. 
 Many of the narrow streets are rendered impassable by upright 
 stone posts, set irregularly in the street for the very purpose of 
 preventing intrusion or passage. Except in the imperial grounds, 
 
 it' 
 
 3t 
 
 tl 
 
14G 
 
 JAPAN, ClIIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 there arc no gardens and no fountains, statues, or other monuments 
 — only compact masses of dwellings aud shops, low, old, and mean. 
 The weather is cold, damp, and dark. A visit from General 
 Vlangally has been the incident of the day. The prevailing agita- 
 tion resulting from the Tici:-Tsin massacre is the chief subject of 
 conversation. Mr. "Warden, at Shanghai, and Mr. Low and Di\ 
 "Williams, here, appear to be almost the only persons in China who 
 take a rational and statesmanlike view of the political situation. 
 " We must take a walk to see the city," says Mr. Seward. '' There 
 is no walk in the city," answers General Vlangally, "except on 
 the city wall." " Very well," replies Mr. Seward, " then let us 
 walk on the city wall." 
 
 PeMng^ November 4, 1870. — So here we are — on the city wall — 
 not the outer wall, nor yet the innermost wall, but on an interior 
 wall which divides the city of the Tartar conquerors from the Chi- 
 nese city, and at the same time looks over the innermost wall which 
 encloses the city where the emperor resides, which is therefore called 
 the " saci'ed " city. "We have reached this commanding eminence 
 just at the hour when the morning sun is lighting up the snow- 
 clad mountains which bound the vallev of the Pei-ho in the M'est. 
 It is cold, out, with furs elsewhere superfluous, and exercise quite 
 unusual, we can bear it. The legation, where we reside, opens on 
 the bank of the now dry moat, Mliich lies at the foot of the wall. 
 The wall is thirty feet high. AVe have walked several miles on 
 this elevation, looking down from the parapets on the scene around 
 us, and have wondered at the numerous gates, all lofty, nuissive, 
 and graiul ; have counted the thousand towers, bastions, aud ram- 
 parts ; surveyed the walls of the outer and inner cities ; have con- 
 tem]ilated their watch-towers, garrisons, and arsenals ; and have 
 shrunk back from an estimate of the numl)er of the gilded ])ala(cs 
 and tem])les. It avc remember, wo recorded yesterday, before 
 coming ui> liitlier, that Peking is a most unsightly and wretcliod 
 city. It seems to us now, although walled cities are uufamiliiir to 
 our ex])erience, that Peking is the onlf city, we have ever seen, 
 euliiciently majestic to be a seat of empire. 
 

 
 u 
 
 a. 
 
 u 
 
 
 
 u 
 
 h 
 (J) 
 
 u 
 
 1^ 
 
148 
 
 JAPAN, CIIIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 True, these walls, built six liundred years ago, have failed to 
 protect Peking against the allied forces of Great Britain and 
 France, and they are confessedly useless for a defence in the mod- 
 ern system of warfare. But, like all the castellated and ecclesiasti- 
 cal structures of the middle ages, they are sublime and impressive. 
 True, even outer walls cramp the growth of cities, while interior 
 partitions and subdivisions must have an unwholesome effect and 
 be otherwise intolerable. But the castellated walls of the middle 
 ages are none the less imposing for all this. The walls of Peking 
 address themselves no longer to the reason, but to the imagina- 
 tion. Xo Chinaman, unless in military or civil employ, and no 
 Chinese woman under any circumstances, is allowed to go upon the 
 walls. Why do a people so jealous allow foreigners this privilege ? 
 It is allowed because they insist upon it. Could there be a 
 stronger evidence that China wearies and gives way before tlie 
 ever-increasing importunity and exaction of the "Western nations^ 
 "We now recall the fact that it was stated by Mr. Burlingame, nt 
 Auburn, that this concession was first made to himself and Sir 
 Frederick Bruce. 
 
 Unhappily, a closer inspection of the wall and its accessories 
 enables us to see that much of its impressive effect is derived from 
 artistic imposture. Arsenals, capacious enough for the ordnance 
 of the Washington Navy- Yard, contain only a few awkwardly- 
 mounted guns. Painted cannons in the embrasures are substituted 
 fur real guns. 
 
 In China the national flag is never seen singly. There are 
 always double flag-staffs. Each gate-way has a rampart to ]M'e- 
 vent the direct approach of an enemy. The wall is an eartlicii 
 embankment twcnty-flve feet tiiick at the base, the outer flue 
 coverc(l with large, hard, gray bricks, easily mistaken for hewn 
 stone. During the day the gates are wide open, and there is im 
 indiscriminate c(»mmingling of the populations of the Tartar .iiid 
 the Cliinese cities, undistinguisliable at least by strangois. \vt 
 BiU'h is the power of habitual jealousy that the gates are ]ior('ni])- 
 torily and absolutely closed from sunset until sunrise. A deiii/i'ii 
 of one city left in the other at the closing must remain until nii»ni- 
 
FOREIGN POPULATION" OF PEKING. 
 
 149 
 
 ing. We look down easily into the interior city, the residence of 
 the emperor, and thcr2tbre "the Prohibited." Its gates, like the 
 others, are open during the day, but they are carefully guarded, 
 and none but the privileged residents are allowed to enter, except 
 by special order. The palaces bear no resemblance in form or 
 structure to the royal dwellings of the West. They are spacious, 
 and, being covered with yellow tiled roofs, and elsewhere showing 
 a commingling of light yellow and green, they have an appearance 
 of newness or recent repair which is in strong contrast with the 
 outer city. The " Prohibited City " is divided by a wall into two 
 areas. In one of these the emperor resides with his family, while 
 the other is open to the ministers of state. AVe may have an 
 opportunity to look more closely into this latter area. 
 
 The brick facing of all these walls is giving Avay. The culverta 
 under them, besides many parts of the fortitications, are dilapi- 
 date J, and the moat is either altogether dry or only partially filled 
 with stagnant pools. 
 
 We have come down from the walls. "What is the foreign 
 population of Peking? Pid you say five thousand? Two thou- 
 sand ? One thousand ? It is only two hundred — diplomatic min- 
 isters, clerks, attaches and retainers, and missionary ministers, all 
 told. Mr. Seward has held an audience of the whole to-day. Each 
 legation occupies a closed area, a "compound" assigned by the 
 Government for that purpose. Only a narrow lane divides the 
 legation of the United States from that of Russia. 
 
 Two Chinese were announced this morning. Thev came in 
 
 very costly native attire, shaven, wearing the pig-tail, and their 
 
 feet cased in white-soled mandarin boots. To our surprise, they 
 
 accosted Mr. Seward in English, calling his recollection to an 
 
 acciuaintan.'o with him in the State Department at Washington. 
 
 Surprised at this, he excitedly asked, how and where they had 
 
 learned the English language so well. "Is it possible," they 
 
 answered, " that yon mistake us for Chinese ? "We are your own 
 
 'jountrymen, aiul yon saw us in service when you visited Fort 
 
 Corcoran on Arlington Heights." These two ufticers have with 
 
 great adruitness been engaged by an American mercantile house in 
 11 
 
 
 i 
 
150 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 Cliina to acquire the mandarin languai^e, to enable them to act as 
 ao^ents in trade. On arrivinj^ at Peking for that purpose, they 
 'ssumed the Chinese habit, and, abandoning for the time all foreign 
 Bociety, they coniined themselves exclusively to Chinese inns and 
 Chinese society. They say they have done this with so much 
 success that they have never been detected by the natives, except 
 when surprised in making their toilet. The natives they meet 
 with often say that their Chinese is imperfect, but they suppose 
 it to be a dialect of Thibet or some distant province of the empire. 
 Of course, we must not disclose their names. 
 
 Our band of music, having been released from its durance, has 
 played for every foreign minister, who came to visit us, the na- 
 tional air of his own country. It has cheered us at lunch, and 
 awakened the echoes at the elegant dinner given us at the Eussian 
 legation, and it ended by giving the spirited dancing-music for the 
 soiree with which the day has closed. It is the first foreign band 
 of music that has ever come in time of peace to Peking. The nov- 
 eltv attracts native crowds, but excites no ill tcmner. 
 
 Pcl'lng, l^ovemher t^ih. — Deep concern this morning nt finding 
 the earth covered with snow, seeming to demand an early depart- 
 ure southward. The morning was s]icnt in studying and cheapen- 
 ing the M'arcs brought by native mer- 
 chants, and spread over all the floors 
 of the legation — bronzes, porcelain, 
 jasper, jade, amethysts, and emeralds, 
 wrought into the most curious shapes 
 — sea-otter, sable, Thibet ian goat, As- 
 trakhan, wolf, white fox, red fox, bear, 
 panther, and tiger skins. Wc shall not report our bargnins, 
 further than that we bought a lapis-lazuli cat for two dollars, lor 
 which the merchant's first price was twenty-five dollars, and llint. 
 Mr. Seward retired in disgust from the trade when his otlcr of five 
 dollars was taken up for a lignum-vitn? box, for which the vendor 
 had all day demanded fifty dollars. As far as the furs arc con- 
 cerned, our friends at home, to whom we send the purcliases, will 
 
 LAriB-tAZULI CAT. 
 
 judge. Let tl 
 staple vegetabL 
 of Peking, If 
 the continent. 
 
 It is remar 
 favored perfect 
 manufacture of 
 brought into usi 
 of woollen fabi 
 among the poor 
 and quilted. Sii 
 The class a litt 
 with the wool oi 
 dresses in fur — t 
 lu's robes of sabi 
 Alaska. The 1 
 largest purchaser 
 
 N'ovcmher 1)1 
 political rather 
 worked out her( 
 at Veddo. It 
 lirofligate retair. 
 
 is generally und 
 
 tlie world. V,\ 
 
 Ali'airs at any ca 
 
 Would express it, 
 
 Mi\ Seward hav 
 
 iiiairic ri„rr read! 
 
 1^'king is rather ; 
 
 is ffoi/en. Dkstin 
 
 a <liscrect, modest 
 
 exercise very coi 
 
 "•hile he enjoys tl 
 
CHINESE GARMENTS. 
 
 151 
 
 judge. Let this detail serve as an instruction that, as tea is the 
 staple vegetable production in China, so furs are the great import 
 of Peking. Ij is the central market for the northern regions of 
 the continent. 
 
 It is remarkable that, while the ancient civilization of China 
 llivored perfection in the use of the loom and the needle in the 
 manufacture of silk, cotton, and embroidery, it seems not to have 
 brought into use either the loom or the needle in the manufacture 
 of woollen fabrics. The want of woollen clothes in the winter, 
 among the poorer classes, is supplied by cotton and silk, wadded 
 and (quilted. Such garments admit of no washing and little change. 
 The class a little higher clothe themselves in dried sheep-skins 
 with the wool on ; but every person, who can aiford the luxury, 
 dresses in fur — the richer the person, the more eicgant and costly 
 his robes of sable. Siberia sends her furs to Peking, and so does 
 Alaska. The Tartars and Russians, after the Chinese, arc the 
 largest purchasers. 
 
 Xorcmher hih. — Peking wears everywhere the aspect of a 
 jiolltical rather th n a connnerclal capital. Jievolutlon has not 
 worked out here any such political, social, or military changes as 
 at Veddo. It is the residence of idle, prolitlcss, perhaps ofteu 
 jtrotligate retair.ers of the Government. 
 
 Kiwcmher Gt/i. — A coiTcspondence much more intimate than 
 is generally understood exists between the several cabinets of 
 the world. By internaiional usage, the Minister of Foreign 
 Att'airs at any capital is the Iiead, or, as our nibernlan friends 
 would express it, the "head centre" of the diplomatic body there. 
 Mr. Seward having occupied that position at Washington, the 
 iiiau;u' ring readily opens to him, wherever we go. The circle at 
 Poking is rather a contracted one just now. The Russian minister 
 is <hi/eii. Distinguished by military service in the Crimea, ho is 
 a discreet, modest, and intelligent ir -ntleman, and is understood to 
 exercise very considerable influence over the Chinese cabinet, 
 while he enjoys the respect and contidencc of his colleagues. The 
 
 «-5 
 
152 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 Eussian legation has a s2>aeious, costly, and elegant residence, and 
 an imposing 'personnel. Besides four secretaries and a surgeon, it 
 maintains a Greek chapel, open to native converts, and a Cossack 
 guard, with extensive stables. The German legation has nioro 
 moderate appointments. The minister, IJaron Rehfues, is respected 
 for his largo ex])erience. The British representative, Sir Iluthcr- 
 ford Alcock, is absent. His place is tilled by Mr. AVade, against 
 whom there is a universal outcry, among the foreigners in China, 
 for his supposed tameness in regard to the matter of the Tien- 
 Tsin catastrophe. lie is, nevertheless, a wise, learned, ])rudcnt, 
 and practical minister. Mrs. AVade, a daughter of Sir John llcr- 
 schel, is very intellectual, liberal in her opinions, and earnest, 
 in her admiration of American institutions. During the social 
 banishment she has endured here, she has successfully acqniicd 
 the ditScult mandarin dialect. The British Government is lavish 
 toward its legation. The residence was purchased at large expense 
 from one of the imperial princes, and repaired last year at a cost 
 of one hundred and twenty-live thousand dollars. The legation 
 maintains a chapel, fom* secretaries, six di[)lomatic puj)ils, nnd a 
 strong military guard. The French legation has Count Rochcfort 
 acting as charge iTqf aires. Far less discreet than our cxceHcnt 
 friend Berthemy, or his predecessor, De Montholon, who M-ere so 
 acceptable in the United States, Itochefort has proved himself 
 vehement, impetuous, impracticable, and inconstant in his reclama- 
 tions on the occasion of the massacre of the French consul and 
 nuns at Tien-Tsin, while the military disasters which have just 
 overtaken France at home have rendered her representative here 
 powerless. The Danish and Belgian missions arc oidy occasional, 
 and little more than nominal. Their incumbents are accredited to 
 Japan as well 'is to China. The Dane took leave of ns at Yeddo, 
 to repair to Peking before us, but has not yet arrived. Mr. Low, 
 the United States minister, is a very able man, of much equa- 
 nimity, enjoying e([ually the coniidencc of the Chinese Govern- 
 ment and that of the diplomatic corps. The appointments of this 
 legation, like those of the United States elsewhere, arc moderate. 
 Frederick the Great hardly practised greater parsimony in forcigu 
 
 diplomacy than 
 chapel, nor sur^ 
 secretary, who ii 
 in Japan, we he 
 of our national 
 tinually of Russi 
 ascendency at 1 
 ated. The arch 
 during his reside 
 than anv or all 
 of this prestige. 
 Mr. Yan Valkenl 
 surpassed in cons 
 tivcs in Japan, 
 in cither country 
 arcs of local adm 
 Ih-itain. There : 
 fnm the prestige 
 They appear in 
 just and magnani 
 fairness in politic! 
 demand no advaii 
 powers. Russia, 
 China, but a colo^ 
 existing between 
 of the border prj 
 tion. Moreover,! 
 her railroads, dill 
 that, while the frf 
 thelcss prove a pc 
 The proGiige 
 the European Coj 
 the influence sluj 
 Hults. This com I 
 factnrcs whi(di ar^ 
 Great Britain, tin 
 
THE FOREIGN MINISTERS. 
 
 153 
 
 (Ul)lomacy than our Government does. Mr. Low has neither 
 chapel, nor surgeon, nor official dwelling-house. lie has one 
 secretary, who is also his interpreter, and no guards. TIere, as 
 in Japan, we hear our countrymen lament an alleged inferiority 
 of our national importance and influence. They complain con- 
 tinually of Russian ascendency at Peking, as they do of Britisli 
 ascendency at Yeddo. The grievance in each case is exaccer- 
 ated. The archives at Washington show that Mr. Burlingame, 
 (luring his residence here, exerted a greater influence in China 
 than any or all of his colleagues. Xor has Mr. Low lost any 
 of this prestige. So also Mr. Townsend Harris, Mr. Pruyn, and 
 Mr. Van Valkenburgh, as well as Mr. De Long, have not been 
 surpassed in consideration and usefulness by foreign representa- 
 tives in Japan. Nevertheless, the influence of the United States 
 in cither country is far less distinguishable in the shaping of meas- 
 ures of local administration than that of Ilussia or that of Great 
 Britain. There is sufficient reason for this, without deroeatinff 
 fr^ni the prestige of the United States^ They are a distinct nation. 
 Tlicy appear in China, as they do in Japan, in the character of a 
 just and magnanimoup. power. They oft'er little but equality and 
 fairness in political, commercial, and social intercourse, and they 
 (Icinand no advantages that are not equally conceded to all other 
 powers. Russia, on the contrary, is not only a near neighbor of 
 China, but a colossal one. The commercial and political relations 
 existing between them are various and intimate. The populations 
 of the border provinces of the two empires have a close assimila- 
 tion. Moreover, Russia advances nearer to China every day with 
 her railroads, diligence-lines, and telegraph. The Chinese know 
 tliat, while the friendship of Russia is invaluable, she may never- 
 theless prove a powerful, if not fatal enemy. 
 
 The presiige of Great P)ritain throughout the world, even on 
 the European Continent, is derived chiefly from the ^dominion and 
 the influence she wields in the East, and the commerce which re- 
 sults. This commerce, again, is the essential support of the manu- 
 factures which are the basis of the prosperity of the English peojile. 
 (ireat Britain, therefore, wisely spares no care and no cost in main- 
 
 r ■■■■% 
 
 k ^ 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
154 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCIilN CHINA. 
 
 INTE 
 
 taiuinu^ not only a diplomatic force, but a naval prcdominanco, in 
 the East. India, China, and Japan, are her proper theatre. In 
 this great national policy she necessarily encounters rivalry and 
 resistance. She has appeared in China more than once as an 
 enemy, and proved her power, as well to destroy as to protect 
 and save. It suits her interest to be here now as a magnanimous 
 friend, like the United States. Long may the two nations remain 
 in that accord ! 
 
 November 1th. — "We have just come from a visit to the for- 
 lorn "Hall of Sciei '«." T!;e Church of Rome has been perso- 
 
 
 ANOIKNT OBSERVATORY, Oil HALL OF SniBNOB. 
 
 verinf? in its attempts to Christianize China, but lias left tlioro, 
 thus far, only monuments of its failure. One of them is the Ob- 
 servatory, otherwise enllod the "Hall of Science.' The jjroat 
 Protestant Reformation in Euro]ie was, as every one knows, fol- 
 lowed by a hardly less remarkable reaction and revival of tlio 
 Roman Catholic Church originating in the inspiration of Ignatius 
 
 Lovola, and coi 
 founded. In : 
 of the Tartar ci 
 superintendence 
 They procured i 
 nomical instruir 
 suggested, and c 
 These instrumei 
 out any protect 
 years, are still 
 One of them i 
 the constcllatior 
 astronomy as it 
 astrolabe, an ar 
 and quadrants, 
 which attended 
 the Jesuits, here 
 tlicy were dismi 
 care of native pi 
 base of the Obs 
 the two or three 
 rcct the cnlenda 
 for the almanac 
 marriages, barg; 
 
 Novemlcr 8 
 given to ]\Ir. 
 Cabinet (Yanioi 
 izc, arrange anc 
 " none but tlic 
 mandarins dose 
 are allowed to 
 suits their com 
 color indicative 
 I lodgers, the T 
 their seats in g 
 
INTERVIEW WITH THE CHINESE CABINET. 
 
 155 
 
 Loyola, and conducted chiefly by the Society of Jesus which ho 
 founded. In 1080, the Emperor Kan-^-IIi erected on the wall 
 of the Tartar city an observatory, conunittin^ its construction and 
 superintendence to Jesuit professors, with a niuniticent endowment. 
 They procured in Paris, Venice, Genoa, and London, bronze astro- 
 nomical instruments, the most perfect that science had at that time 
 suggested, and of stupendous magnitude and niagniticent execution. 
 These instruments, set up in the open air, and thus exposed with- 
 out any protection against the weather one hundred and ninety 
 years, are still in perfect condition, and as available as at lirst. 
 One of them is a celestial globe, seven feet in diameter, with 
 the constellations raised upon it, showing the exact condition of 
 astronomy as it stood two centuries ago. Besides this, there are an 
 astrolabe, an armillary sphere, trigonometers, transit instruments, 
 and quadrants. Although the institution remains, the circumstances 
 which attended its foundation have entirely passed away. AV^hej. 
 the Jesuits, here as in Japan, betrayed the ambition of the Churc^^, 
 they were dismissed and banished. The institution fell under the 
 care of native professors, by whom it has been neglected. At thr 
 base of the Observatory is a shabby suite of apartments, iu ^ iiich 
 the two or three native professors dwell, whose business it is to cor- 
 rect the calendar of the seasons astronomically, while they designate 
 for the almanac the days which are lucky and unlucky for births, 
 marriages, bargains, journeys, combats, festivals, and funerals. 
 
 K 3 
 
 Novemler Sf/i. — The event of the day has been an audience 
 given to Mr. Seward, M'ith Admiral Eodgers, by the Imperial 
 Cabinet (Yamcn). It required great skill and much care to organ- 
 ize, arrange and m.ount the party. If, among the AVestern nations, 
 *' none but the brave deserve the fair," so, in China, none but great 
 mandarins deserve to ride in chairs, and only princes and ministers 
 are allowed to ride in green chairs ; and this, not because green 
 suits their conq)lexi<m the best, but because green in China is the 
 C(tlor indicative of preeminent rank. So Mr. Seward, Admiral 
 Itodgers, the United States minister, and the consul-general, took 
 their seats in green chairs, while the stati' and others were mounted 
 
 I 
 
 
156 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 on ponies, so far as the capital furnished a supply. The " balance," 
 as our campaign-speakers say, went in carts. The progress was 
 on the avenue — not Pennsylvania Avenue by any means, but tlic 
 avenue without show of pavement, which leads from the Imperial 
 city, through the Tartar city to its outer wall. It was obstructed 
 with auctions, theatrical entertainments, gambling-rings, and every 
 thing else. The head of the procession, consisting of the green 
 chairs, -winding its Avay among these obstructions by the vigor and 
 adroitness of the bearers, reached its destination, and alighted at 
 ihe porch of the foreign office. It is a low Chinese structure ; the 
 doors, wide open, revealed the Yamcn arranged in a row within 
 to receive the guests. But the head of the procession, discovering 
 that the tail had fiillon oi\\ decided to wait outside, until the lost 
 member shoidd reconnect. This made a delay of twenty minutes, 
 Avhich, as we suppose, was imperfectly explained to the ministers 
 within, who made an unmistalcable demonstration of impatience. 
 Perceiving this, the head entered, leaving the caudal part to come 
 up to time as it could. In the middle of the room stood a table of 
 the common European height, eight feet long and three feet wide. 
 Broad and comfortable stools were placed around it ; there was no 
 carpet or other furniture, but a hind of divan or sofa against two 
 sides of the wall. Mv. Seward and his chief associates of the green 
 chairs were graciously received by five chief ministers of state, all 
 of grave aspect, and two of them of advanced age. They M'cre 
 richly dressed in silks, over which were spread ermine and other 
 furs. They saluted their guests at first in the Chinese foshion, by 
 bowing with hands brought palm to palm on their breasts ; after 
 this they shook hands in the American way. All the ministers 
 then busied themselves in a somewhat demonstrative way in seat- 
 ing their guests. Two of the Chinese ministers took their seats at 
 the upper end of the table, in the order, not of their rank, but of 
 seniority. They placed Mr. Seward at the side of the table on the 
 left, then Mr. Low, then the admiral, and then the consul-general ; 
 next two interpreters. The remaining members of the cabinet 
 completed the circle. The table M'as thickly spread with china 
 dishes filled with hon-hons and dried fruits. The ])residing min- 
 
INTERVIEW WITH THE CHINESE CABINET. 
 
 157 
 
 istcr then rose and announced that his Imperial Highness Prince 
 Knng, regent of the empire during the minority of the emperor, 
 li:ul hcen suddenly attacked this morning by a violent illness, on 
 his return from the imperial palace, lie lamented his iailure to 
 
 t 
 
 PKINCE KCKO. 
 
 meet Mr. Seward, as he had appointed, and had charged the cabi- 
 net to receive him with this apology, or to postpone the audience 
 to a future occasion, as Mr. Seward himself might prefer. The 
 minister said he Avas charged bv Prince Kung to sav that he re- 
 irarded it as a great distinction that he was to become acquainted 
 with Mr. Seward, and that the prince intended in any case, as 
 soon as he should recover his health, to visit Mr. Seward at his 
 residence. Although Mr. Seward accepted the ajiology without 
 distrust or hesitation, yet all the members of the cabinet earnestly 
 rci'nforced it. 
 
 Mr. Seward then inquired nbout the health of "VVan-Siang, who 
 was absent. The presiding minister replied that Wan-Siang was 
 ill, and had just obtained leave of absence from his post in the 
 ministry for a year, to mourn the dcaf'i of his mother. But they 
 instantly dispatched a courier to him, communicating Mr. Seward's 
 inquiries. The courier, in less than half an hour, brouglit a mes- 
 
 
158 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 INI 
 
 saire of tlianks and fricndsliin from Wan-Sian.ijj. Later "Mr. Sowanl 
 spoke of the ability which Wan-Siaii<>- had disphiyed in his negotia- 
 tions with the United States, and of the fricndshij) he had ahvavs 
 manifested toward onr country. These words, like Mr. Seward's 
 previous inquiries, were taken down and reported to Wan-Siaui^ by 
 a courier, and elicited a similar reply. Thu ministers 8[)oke witli 
 much fcelinij of the death of Mr, JJurlingamc. Mr. Seward said 
 that Mr. Uurlingame's diplomatic career was an illustration of tlio 
 higliest possible success. A minister lives always under two dis- 
 tinct and sometimes irrcconcilablo obligations : First, ho must 
 retain the confidence of his own country ; secondly, be must not 
 fail to win the confidence of the country to which he is accredited. 
 Mr. Burlingame filled botli obligations, and thus was enabled to 
 unite the two nations in a new bond of peace, and in a common 
 ell'ort to advance civilization. Tlio ministers thought themselvos 
 under obligations to Mr. Seward ; in the first instance, for the a])- 
 pointmcnt of ^Mr. IJu'-lingamc as United States minister to Chin;), 
 and then for receiving him us minister of China to the United 
 States and Europe. 
 
 Mr. Seward iiupiired the number and functions of the " I'annor- 
 men." The ministers reidied : " They are four distinct legions, con- 
 taining many thousand men. They all reside at Peking. Tlioy 
 are sworn to maintain and defend the emperor in all conflii'ts, 
 whether at home or abroad, and in compensation for this service 
 they all receive stipends from the Government. Ihit tl)o organiza- 
 tion of the legions is worn out. The service is a sinecure, costly, 
 and useless." 
 
 Manifestly tlie ministers feared that the apologies for the absence 
 of Prince Kung from the reception might be thought by Mr. Sew- 
 ard insincere and evasive, for they returned to the subject contin- 
 ually, lie assured them that, although he had during eight years 
 conducted the diplomatic, relations of the United States with China, 
 yet in all that time not one case of procrastimition or subterfuge, 
 on the ])art of the regent, had occurred. Mr. Seward hoped for 
 the prince's speedy recovery, and begged the ministers to be at 
 their case about the present disappointment. 
 
 The sonioi 
 
 dressed Mr. S( 
 
 solemn stage 
 
 Ml". Seward's i 
 
 national proce 
 
 entered the <ra 
 
 at once the ( 
 
 gathered there 
 
 upon the jiorc 
 
 lamatlons wen 
 
 which our friei 
 
 stood to be, " 1 
 
 too, but where 
 
 could not disco 
 
 guests all four, 
 
 ccive the tail, a 
 
 important extn 
 
 biutons, its bin 
 
 benches aromM, 
 
 minister renew 
 
 around him, sai 
 
 statesman here. 
 
 live to reach 
 
 seventy-five, an 
 
 age. 
 
 This answei 
 tiic Chin-jso ca 
 sitcly courteouf 
 brought in, filb 
 Then followed 
 birds'-nest sou] 
 of bamboo boi 
 many kinds, fis 
 known. These 
 liniulred and fif 
 bits oil tiny pla 
 
INTERVIKW WITH THE CHINESE CABINET. 
 
 160 
 
 The senior ministoi" then, in a most reverential manner, ad- 
 dressed Mr. Seward, "What is your venerable ageT' Just at this 
 solemn stage of the audience, when all were silently waiting for 
 j\Ir. Seward's reply, what should appear but the tail of our great 
 national procession! Slowly eliminating itself from the street, it 
 entered the gate, crossed the court, and appeared at the door. All 
 iit once the (jueued sub-otficials of the foreign oilicc, who had 
 gathered there to be witnesses of the interesting ceremony, rushed 
 upon the porch to discover the cause of the interru})tion. Proc- 
 lamations were then made in Chinese by the ministers within, 
 which our friends outside, not waiting tor an interpretation, under- 
 stood to be, " Make way for the tail ! " Way was made, and ipiichly 
 too, but where the amazed native lookers-on went to, our friends 
 could not discover. The Chinese ministers all five, the American 
 guests all four, and the interpreters twain, rose to their feet to re- 
 ceive the tail, and remained in that respectful attitude until that 
 iini)ortant extremity had extended itself with its gilt epaulets and 
 buttons, its blue and black coats, and white gloves, on the row of 
 benches around the room. Oi-der being restored, the ])reriiding 
 niiuistcr renewed the suspended incpiiry. Mr. Seward, looking 
 around him, said : " I think I am neither the oldest nor the youngest 
 statesman here. I am sixty-nine. I hope that the youngest may 
 live to reach your own honorable age, which I understand to bo 
 seventy-five, and that all may be blessed with years beyond that 
 
 age. 
 
 ?? 
 
 This answer of Mr. Seward was received with great hilarity by 
 the Chinese cabinet, and unanimously pronounced to be so exqui- 
 sitely courteous as to deserve a bumper. Thereupon glasses were 
 brought in, filled with a hot, strong drink, which they called wine. 
 Then followed a slow and measured succession of delicate viands, 
 hirds'-nest soup, pigeons'-eggs, cabbages nunced, and tender shoots 
 of bandjoo boiled, pheasants, grouse, and stewed wild-ducks of 
 many kinds, fishes, slui ks'-fins and other luxuries with names un- 
 known. These dishes, in the whole numbering not less than one 
 hundred and fifty, were severally served to each guest in the smallest 
 bits on tiny plates, which at last crowded aud encumbered the table. 
 
 ^ 3 
 
160 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 These plates were filled by the ministers from tureens, wliicli eon- 
 tinnally replaced each other. Each visitor was provided with knife 
 and fork, as well as chop-sticks. It is etiquette here for each person 
 to help every other person at the table to every course that conies 
 on. Occasionally, Mr. Seward raised a political question of some 
 sort, but the ministers adroitly passed it by. AVhether they were 
 unwilling to speak freely in the absence of the regent, or whether 
 they feared to expose themselves before the crowded Chinese audi- 
 ence, Avliicii had a«;ai;i gathered in the apartment, Mr. Seward could 
 not determine. AVe leani that all the ofHces of the Government 
 are filled or suspected of being filled with ei)ies. It was soon 
 manifest that little was to be learned of Chinese afi'airs at this 
 magnificent entertainment. The ministers, with evident self-satis- 
 faction, entertained their guests with familiar Chinese proverbs, 
 epigrams, and riddles, and they resolutely persisted in accepting as 
 clever every thing said by Afr. Seward, or either of the other gue&ts, 
 however commonplace it might be. Two of the ministers are 
 poets; they rehearsed their own verses and other Chinese poetry, 
 with marked emphasis and at great length. Neither of the inter- 
 preters, however, could render these verses into intelligible English. 
 But the guests received the rehearsal as fine, nevertheless. 
 
 One of tiie ministers said : " Mr. Seward, your complexion is very 
 fresh and your step vigorous. You must have a secret, which en- 
 ables you to preserve them through such great labors and travels." 
 
 "You are complimentary," answered ]\[r. Seward; "what 
 health and strength I have are duo to activity and exorcise." 
 
 To this one of the poetical ministers resjionded : " Yes, every 
 thing in the universe is constantly active; only the (^reator of all 
 is at rest." 
 
 Mr. Seward now began to understand that this reception was 
 intended Icps as an audience than as a feast, and that drinking dee]t, 
 or at lear<t often, is here a requirement of such an entertainment. 
 The ministers descanted bolh in prose and poetry, with proverbs 
 and eju'grams, on the virtue of hospitality, and the excellence of 
 ('(mviviality. They drank deep and filled Uj) often. 
 
 Addressing Admiral Iu)clgers, one of the two Anacrcons insisted 
 
nOSPITALITY OF THE MINISTERS. 
 
 161 
 
 that tlic best proof of friendship that one can give at an entertain- 
 ment is, to get drunk. All his associates facetiously concurred. 
 
 Aduiiral Rodgers answered : '' I accept the generous sentiment, 
 and I invite all the members of the cabinet to get as drunk as 
 possible, and as quickly as they can." 
 
 The cabinet showed its appreciation of the admiral's repartee 
 by vehement laughter and much gesticulation. At least, one of 
 them took the gallant admiral at his word, and drank much deeper 
 than before. 
 
 The hospitality of the ministers was not monopolized by the 
 head of the procession. Dainty dishes and strong drinks were 
 served to the tail as it lay stretched along the benches. They were 
 discussed with entire satisfaction, but in respectful though wonder- 
 ing silence. 
 
 After a sitting of four hours, Mr. Seward, to Avhom the right 
 helonged, brought the entertainment to an end by proposing to 
 Ills august entertainers: '"Perpetual peace, prosperity, and welfare 
 to (yhina." 
 
 The ministers deliberated, considtcd, and then asked leave to 
 amend by adding the words, "and the United States." 
 
 Mr. Seward acccipted the amendment with a further amend- 
 ment, which brought the sentiment into this form, satisfactory to 
 all the i>arty : 
 
 "■Perpetual peace, prosperity and welfare to China and the 
 Fnitcd States, the oldest and the youngest of empires. 
 
 The visitors rose, and, after the most respectful and cordial bow- 
 ing and hand-shah ing, were dismissed. The procession reached the 
 legation at a very late hour. We have not heard whether it stood 
 any more firmly on the order of its coming, than it did on the 
 "order of its going," as the gentlemen had no time to report be- 
 fore sitting d»nvn to Mr. Low's dinner, the great diplonuitic enter- 
 tainment of the season. 
 
 Kovonlci' dth. — Three months today from Auburn. Xot a 
 word yet from home. ]\[r. Seward has sent a telegram by courier 
 one hundred and eighty miles to Kiakhta, on the liussian frontier, 
 
 
 
102 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 there to be put on the Russian wires. How much more have we 
 seen and learned, in these three months of foreii>n travel, than we 
 could have seen and learned within the same period of travel at 
 home ! A messenger has come to the legation with compliments 
 to Mr. Seward, and a polite inquiry whether his reception yester- 
 day was agreeable to him. They desired him to know that they 
 never unbent themselves so much to a stranger as they did to him 
 on that occasion. 
 
 This has been especially a ladies' day. Yang-Fang, pawnbroker 
 
 by ])rofession, mandarin by rank, one of the three richest num in 
 Peking, was cdncated at Shanghai, where he had some opportnni- 
 ties of seeing the Wistcrn mode of life, lie is dcsirons of cnlti- 
 vating the ac(|uaintancc of foreigners here so far as he can do m» 
 withont exciting Chinese suspicion of his loyalty. Jle tenderctl ;in 
 invitation to the three ladies to visit his familv. The invitiitioii 
 was communicated confidentially, and with tlu; condition that tiny 
 should be attended by only two gentlemen, neither ol" whom should 
 be an oflicial person. The ladies went nt ono o'clock to-day, in 
 
THE LADIES VISIT YANG-FANG'S WIFE. 
 
 1G3 
 
 (losely-covcrcd chairs, tlirongh familiar streets, until tliey turned 
 into a narrow and uninvitini;; one. There they stopped at the ijatc 
 of an outisido wall, one of many gates of the same kind. Thi-ough 
 this gate they were ushered into a paved court. Ascending three 
 or four steps, they entered a second gate. The mandarin received 
 tlicm there with his wife and five handmaidens who wore waiting, 
 and led them through a corridor. This ceremony over, the wife led 
 the party to lier boudoir. This room is furnished with a curious 
 combination of luirojjean and Chinese styles. A Brussels carpet, 
 
 ^ \ Hit 'P'"- : ^ ;.:• " ,/ t' | 
 Wire OP TANO-FANO. (FROM A fllOTOOBAlMI DY HIMSELF.) 
 
 •m 
 
 
 3 
 1 
 
 
 lialf a dozen mirrors of difTerent sizes, with gilt frames, ])ictnrcs of 
 flic V(»semite valley, a French dock, a barometer, a small Ameri- 
 can sewing-machine with a crank, two chairs covered with red 
 clotli, Chinese divans, a French bcdsteiKJ with curtains, French 
 kiiick-knacks, but no Chinese ones, rows of porcelain vases, and 
 [Kits filled with chrysanthemums, an juiuarium with gold-tish, a 
 black cat, six finely-bred spaniels, and a monkey, made the comple- 
 ment of this singidar apartment. The visitors, taking seats on the 
 Knrojiean sofas, and the Chinese ladies on the divans, excliangccl 
 cciupljmcnts as well us they could, the American ladies trying to 
 
 ? 
 
 1 
 
 
164 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 recall tlie instructions tliey had received from CIii-Tajcn at Auburn 
 Next the Chinese ladies took tho watches, gold chains, bruc; u'^«!, 
 uud foreigr ring.^, and inspected them carel'idly. At the same time 
 fi\( V ]>at into tlie hands of their visitors their own ornamenl.-, 
 jH'aj'ls, emeralds, sapphires, rubies, and amethysts. After this the 
 ladies of the house examined the American hulies' dresses, hats, 
 and gloves, marking well the fashion and material, and in a gentle 
 and unaffected way ofiered to inspection their own richer and more 
 elegant costumes of silk and embroidery. The wife is a <lelicatc- 
 looking woman of forty. She wore a lavender-colored, embroid- 
 ered crepe petticoat, over this a do\ible tunic of two pretty shades 
 of blue silk, trimmed with a variegated chintz border, scarlet satin 
 endjroidcred under-sleeves, so long as nearly to conceal the slender 
 hands — the nails, as long as the nngers, polished and stained to rc;- 
 semble tortoise-shell, each nail having for its protection a wrought 
 gold case. Her coarse, black jMongolian hair, carefully dressed 
 and fastened with gold pins, was partly covered with a black-satiii 
 
 LONO NAILS. 
 
 cap, tied at the back. This ca]t, not nnlilcc in shape to the "Mary 
 Stuart," was entirely seeded Midi pearls, rubies, emeralds, ami 
 sa])))hircs, many of them, especially the ])earls, large, and of i-aiv 
 value. Her feet, of which only occasional glimpses could be IkhI, 
 were not more than three inches long, and were tightly encascil 
 I' scarlet-satin shoos; her face and neck, literally ])lastered witli 
 ]H;i!rl-whito, \:\ shocking contrast with eyelids and cheeks painted 
 ])ink, and lips red ; her manners and speech are unmistakably 
 
 ivlined ; she is 
 i;:iiidinaid.,.- w 
 •dit, showed t] 
 liaiidsome, dress^ 
 or had small feei 
 women have. ' 
 ;K-credited tcj th 
 mothers ratlier I 
 mutual insj)eetio 
 or? were n(>xt coi 
 apartment, the g 
 a e(»vered table, i 
 caned Chinese 
 lit' chemical, phu 
 of European mai 
 tirst the English 
 uliich has the exi 
 k'ss variety and 
 and one of the w 
 others busied tlu 
 entertainment, m 
 ladies, with theii 
 iiiadt" of Turkish 
 silver ])i{)es. Tin 
 liliiwn out of the 
 visitoi's ti'ied to ii 
 nothing, hut iaui 
 ('ndeav(»red to a( 
 .-poke to them as 
 mandarin imj)i-i 
 Kui'opean euston 
 vi.-it, and then >h 
 These have onlv 
 llo even c<»n<luc 
 '.villi its careful! 
 ulici) the delicioi 
 
AN ENTEI{TAINMi:VT. 
 
 1 05 
 
 roiincd ; she ■.- ii';»i'.5;iiJ iutullectnal, and Ibiitl of books. The five 
 I; ,ii<hnaidv-..- were dressed in a inanner which, thouuli not iiielo- 
 rint, showed tlie inferiority of their pot-ition — one of tlieni very 
 handsonie, dressed in scarl«,'t satin, but none of tiic live vore jewels, 
 or had small feet. The wife has no children ; two of the waiting- 
 women have. While, by the custom of China, these children are 
 iK't'vedited to the wife as her own, and deemed le<,dtimate, their 
 mothers ratlier lose than ac(|uii'o respect by the parenta^^e. The 
 iinitual inspection of dresses in the boudcjir havin<jj ended, the visit- 
 or? were next conducted to what they sup^wscd to be the mandarin's 
 apartment, the great room of the house. Here they found a sola, 
 a cctvered table, and two chairs, all Euro})ean, a broad but very low 
 carved Chinese bedstead, with heavy blue-silk curtains, and cases 
 of cliemical, photo<»Ta])hic, electric, and other scientific a})paratus 
 of European manufacture. Tea was served in French china cup^, 
 first the Enf;l''sh breakfast-tea, afterward the real Chinese beverage, 
 which has the exquisite aroma of neroli ; with it nice cakes of end- 
 k'fis variety and shapes, made of Hour, sugar, and oil. The wife 
 and one of the women sat at the table with the guests, while the 
 others busied themselves in sending in the ditlerent courses of the- 
 oiitortaitiment, which were served by young girls. The Chinese 
 ladies, with their own hands, favored their guests with cigarettes 
 iiiado of Turkish tobacco, while they themselves used long, massive, 
 silver pij>es. The smoke was Inhaled through water, and invariablv 
 hjdwii (lut of the nose. Being well ]irovided with inter])reters, the 
 visitors tried to iiuhu'e conversation. The Chinese ladies answered 
 nothing, but iaughed at every thing the guests said. They then 
 •nileavored to acconinuxlate themselves to their entertainers, and 
 -poke to them as to i-hihlren, but with little more success. The 
 iiiaiidarin improved the o])portunity to express his admiration for 
 Kurojieiin cu,stoms. lie thanked the ladies for the honor of their 
 visit, and then showed them all the other apartments (»f the house. 
 These have only stout^ floors, and the rooin^^ are without furniture. 
 Ho even ( onducted them to his oj>ium-sm».king room for guests, 
 'vitli its carefully ]>re]tared kang and j.iiiows tor reclining upon 
 
 wlun the delicious intoxication comes on. The ladies, of course, 
 12 
 
 W \ 
 
 1., 
 
 •%^ 
 
 
 •a 
 
 I 
 
 \ 
 
 m» ' 
 
IGO 
 
 JAPAN, CIIIXA, AXn COCHIN ( IllNA. 
 
 (11(1 not iiulnluc. The UKUularin nitni-mcd tlicm that lie does ii(,f 
 practise it, and on this occasion the nse of the room was h)st. Tlir 
 mancUirin, beini; a proticient in photography, displays iiictures ul' 
 
 YAVH-I \S(. S •^VIuKIMi-l'.imM 
 
 his Avifo and handmaidens thronj^hont the honse. In one room 
 there is a disorderly collection of Chinese hooks. 
 
 In ^^oin;;' throu«ih tiie mazi' ofaitartments, the ladies, liearini,^ the 
 loud chirping of a cri 'kct, stoi»ped. Thereupon oin* of the woincii 
 hronirht out a wl.ite-silk bag from her piu'ket, and t(H)k from it i 
 small, e.\<piisitely-carve(| l)and>oo-l)o.\,and, opening it, showed \\> iu.i 
 ])et cricket, which closely resi-ndiles the American grasshopper. Tin- 
 tiirhtiniT of cri( kets is a favorite annisement of the Chinese la<lir>. 
 
 A ratlie;' (Ugh li-i-jron Ei:gli>li puinj», standing again>t tin' 
 wall, attracti' 1 th;: atr» idiitn of the visitors, and they inquired it> 
 use. The mandari:; .-iai !. " It is set u|> to extinguish accidental tiro, 
 and I j>ut the women uii<ler it whcii they <piarri'l." The wunieii 
 evidently lo(>ked upon it with disgust. 
 
 The house cunsiots Kji' no less than twenty disfincit huiMiiiiis 
 
A ClIINKSE MANSION. 
 
 H 
 
 >< 
 
 with rc(l-aii(l-ycll(t\v verandas, all coiuu'ctcd In* two vci-v irroL''ular 
 corridors, oiu' nliovo llie (ttlicr, which tui'ii mid twist uj> and down 
 throiin'h crvtoked little staircases, luidi-r arches, around s(|nare pil- 
 lars, in and out ot" all sorth of dark holes an<l corners. There are 
 ;\\(» nai'row areas, which pretend to be i;ardens, with a Ln*otes(|ue 
 ciiiiihinatioii of shrubbery and roek-woi'k. 
 
 llavini,' finislied the exploration of this quaint, inconvenient, 
 and din^T mansion, the visitors took tlu'ir leave, and reached the 
 legation at six in the evening". 
 
 CUINEXB 'lATEW^Y. 
 
 I 
 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 RESIDENCE IX PEKIXd {Conllmcl). 
 
 Tlio Pofay of (liina.— Tlic Toniplo of Heaven.— Tho Tciiiplo of tlio Kiirtli.— Tlio Tern- 
 pie of Rudilha. — Tlie Chinese Hoiizes.— The Temple of Confucius.— Tlic H(lii;iun 
 of Cliina.— .V rieii.siint Uemiioii.— The Hinls of I'eUing.— An Ollieial Dileuaua.— 
 Interview wiih \Vdn-Hiun;', — liitluence of Uuilini'anie. 
 
 Novemhci KVA. — Wu arc inclinod to think tliat, wliilo eve 
 
 I'V 
 
 other nation in the world is advaneini? toward a higher plane of 
 civilization, China is not merely stationary, but is actually ooino 
 backward and downward. Is this decline of China a resnit of tlie 
 iinpertect (levelo])nient of relioious truth i The Chinese reniMJii 
 now as tl'cv were live thousand j'ears ago, materialists, Tliev 
 worship the hcfivcns, they worship the earth, the sun, and tl.i 
 moon, the planets, and the ocean, besides a multitude ot oilier 
 
 n 
 
 atnral ohiects and force: 
 
 Tl 
 
 ley M'orship, more than any oriior 
 
 th 
 
 )tli 
 
 creature, their ancestors, who are created beings even if they have 
 an existence after death. Even the ])hilosophy and morals of ("dii- 
 fncius have left the Chinese sentiment of his teachings not Ir- 
 material than before. The Chinese have expres.sed this material 
 
 lisni 
 
 in erecting great temples — the Tem]>le of Heaven, the Temple ot 
 the Earth, ami the Temple of the ^looii. To the materia! heaven 
 they ascribe all powei', and from it tlu-y claim that the cnipeiNir. a- 
 vicegerent, derives all authority. As Heaven made not only China. 
 but the whole world, so the emperor as vie egerent nt»t only govern- 
 the empire, but is rightful ruler oi' the whole earth. The TeiiipK 
 
 dl' Heaven, in \\ 
 or, if there is su( 
 national one — nu 
 is a national chin 
 (»f France, or St. 
 China what Solo 
 stands in an enclc 
 (l.»me, ty])ical of 
 eiilar altar consist 
 and twenty feet, t 
 diameter. In thii 
 by that ceremony 
 nicitt of the who 
 drapery of the ski 
 b'.aith of Peking, { 
 in dejiendence be 
 Heaven, invoking 
 ings in peace. I) 
 similar thon<di les 
 Dressed m red ri 
 the Sun, and in pa 
 A liigh, embai 
 iini)erial palace, in 
 When the cnipero 
 Nile car, Avhich is 
 The temple is heh 
 hy the Mohamme( 
 the foreign minist( 
 l»i-ofaning the tein 
 selves, is so great 
 Xot long ago, how 
 itver which some iii 
 t" explore, think in 
 tliat breach. On 
 Iiii'^ sold all the ii 
 into decay. We 
 
THE TEMPLE OF HEAVEN". 
 
 109 
 
 ni' IToiivcii, in Pekiii^^ h tlioretbre, prei'iniiiontly, the imperial one ; 
 (.r, if there is such a thing as a sense of natiunuhtj in China, the 
 national one — more national than Westminster Abhey or St. Paul's 
 is a national cliurch of England, or Xotre-Dame a national church 
 (,t' France, or St. Peter's of Italy. The Temple of Heaven is to 
 China what Solomon's Tem])le was to the i)eople ot Judea. It 
 stands in an enclosed area of six hundred acres. Its lofty jxtrcelain 
 (Idiiie, tyj)ical of heaven, has the azure tint of the sky. Its cir- 
 cular altar consists of three stages or stories, the lower one hundred 
 and twenty feet, the second ninety feet, and the third sixty feet in 
 diameter. In this Temple of Heaven the emperor is crowned, and 
 1)V that ceremony assumes, as vicegerent of Heaven, the govern- 
 ment of the whole earth. He is dressed in blue, imitating the 
 ilrai)ery of the skies, and faces the south, because China chictly lies 
 bouth of Peking, and the rest of the world is supposed to be lying 
 in dependence beyond it. Here he makes annual eacritices to 
 Heaven, invoking its protection of the empire in war, and its bless- 
 ings in peace. Dressed in yellow, the color of the earth, he offers 
 similar though less fre(iuent sacrifices at the Tcm[)le of the Earth. 
 Dressed m red robes, he makes similar homage in the Temple of 
 tlio Sun, and in pale white in the Tem{)le of the Moon. 
 
 A high, embanked road, once grandly paved, leads from the 
 imperial palace, in the " Forbidder City," to the Temple of Heaven. 
 When the em])eror visits this temple, he is seated in a yellow-and- 
 liiue car, which is drawn over that road by six white elephants. 
 Tln' tem]>le is held as sacred hy the Chinese as the Caaba at Mecca 
 liy the Mohammedans. Mr. Seward was desirous to visit it. All 
 the foreign ministers assured him that the i)opular prejudice against 
 pnil'aning the temple, even by the intrusion of the Chinese them- 
 selves, is so great that no ministry could dare open it to a foreigner. 
 Xot long ago, however, there was a place broken in the outer wall, 
 over which some adventurous travellers have entered. We set out 
 to cx])lore, thinking it possible we might elfcct an entrance through 
 that breach. On the way we took notice that the present regency 
 has sold all the imperial elephants, and that the stables are falling 
 into decay. We found the imperial avenue in ruins, so that no 
 
 ir 
 
 r ii 
 
 
 > 
 t 
 
 r. 
 
 » 
 
 tl 
 
 1 
 
 t 
 
 % 
 
 % 
 
 
 f* 
 
 JW. 
 
 1 
 
ITO 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 elcpliiint-car or otlier veliicle cduM bo di'iveii over it. Wc made 
 our way on foot ami in cliiin's. Arriviii<jj opposite tlie toinplc aria, 
 we discovered that, althon^li the breach in the wall had been closed, 
 a ;;ate at the front was ()i)en, a janitor standing hy it. This si'i'in- 
 ing a [)r'»i»itious sign, we left the avenue, and directed our sl"i'|ih 
 thither. The janitor, seeing us ajiproach, closed the gate, and re- 
 tired, certaiidy out of sight, but we thought n(»t out of heariiiir. 
 We had interpreters ready of 8})eech and skilful to negotiate, hut 
 no inducement that we oll'ered, either moral or pecuniary, coidd 
 avail to bring back the lost custodian. This was only one more 
 renewal of the exptM'ience which other mendjcrs of the party had 
 
 TKMPIB OF HEAVEN. 
 
 for several days. ]\[ore disappointed than chagrined, we crossed 
 the avenue, to a gate opjjosite the Temple of Ilea von, which opens 
 upon the same area with the Temple of Agricidture. A Ion;; 
 
 nrgiunent onsuo( 
 iiistodian. It en 
 On iiKpdry, how 
 involved the pi'i\ 
 of preiiaynient of 
 The enclosure 
 (h'cd acres. C'ust 
 year to this tempi 
 the occasion of 1 
 ovrcnt of Heaven 
 seed, niid im])lore 
 These fuiu-tions I 
 1)1' delegated, and 
 minority of the ei 
 years of age. Se\ 
 last monarch, the 
 I'uiii, such as are 
 agricultural fairs. 
 A large poi-tio 
 a growth of more 
 the roads are over 
 tlioi'u made fearfu 
 continually on ou 
 iiidf an acre is a 
 trade and a stairc 
 On ceremonial occ 
 jdatfurm under a 
 i'r< 'u his palanqm' 
 opposite, at a dist 
 occupied by the i 
 c'm])eror leaves th 
 by his fanuly and 
 distant, which ma 
 the inner wall of 
 it is a throne, the 
 celebration. Ove 
 
 
TIIH TKMIM.K OF AdRIcri/rrilE. 
 
 171 
 
 ury-uinent cuHued hctwee'ii our iiik'ri)retc'r. Dr. AVilliaius uimI the 
 ciistodiim. It oncK'il bv his taking- hah'n dollar in ("hiiit'so "cash.'" 
 Oil iii([nirv, howmer, we t'ound that the diHicidly was not oiic that 
 involved the ])rivilei;'e c»t' entering the teiii[»Ie, hut only a (juetstittn 
 (it'j)re[)a_vnient ot'tiie tee. 
 
 The enclosure of the Tenijile ol' Agriculture contains tour hun- 
 dred acres, (histuin re(|nires that the emperor shall come once a 
 year to thistemi)le, with the aimiG niagniliceiit demonstration as on 
 the occasion of his ' isits t>> the Temple of Heaven, and, as vice- 
 o'crcnt (»f Heaven, shall break tho earth with a plough, sow it with 
 seed, and imploi pro])itiou> rain ami s\inshine, and plentiful harvest. 
 These fmictions being celestiil, the riglit to perform them cannot 
 l)u delegated, and so they are tor ihcj present suspciuled during tlu' 
 minority of the em])eror. Tlu! j)resent emperor is yet only thirteen 
 years of age. Several years ha\':;ig elapsed since the deatli of the 
 last nu)narch, the tem])le and its appurtenances exhibit neglect and 
 ruin, such as are not likely to occur on the show-grounds of our 
 airricultural fairs. 
 
 A large portion of the grounds is covered with cypress-gi'oves. 
 a growtli of more than five Imndred years. The groumls and even 
 the roads are overrun with coarse, rank grass and weeds. The wild- 
 thorn made fearful havoc with our clothes, and we ivcpiired to be 
 continually on our guard against nettles. In an open s(piare of 
 half an acre is a circular platform (»f stone, with a marble balus- 
 trade and a staircase, which is guarded by the figure of a dragon. 
 On ceremonial occasions, a thi'one is placed in the centre of this 
 ])latform under a gorgeous blue canoj^y. Here the emperor alights 
 fn '11 Ills palanquin, and takes his seat in solitary pomp. Directly 
 opposite, at a distance of thirty feet, is a similar jdatform wliich is 
 occupied by tlie imperial family. Proclamation being made, tlie 
 oni])oror leaves the throne, and makes a solemn jjrogress, followed 
 by his family and ministers, to a temple some two hundred feet 
 distant, which may be eighty feet square and lifty foet high ; against 
 the inner wall of this tenq)lc a dais is raised twenty feet, and upon 
 it is a throne, the same which the late emperor occupied at the last 
 celebration. Over the throne, in large characters, is this legend : 
 
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 JAPAX, CnmA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 "We praise the God who taught men to sow, and who gives tlieiu 
 the harvest." 
 
 Altars with vases surround the throne. "Wlien the emperor Lii.s 
 been seated for a time, he rises, and, standing erect, lifts his Iwuds 
 in adoration, and amid the clouds of incense invokes the blessiiiiis 
 needful for his people. This part of the ceremony concluded, the 
 emperor then M'alks to a distant enclosure of perhaps eight acres. 
 Here, upon another throne, he is attended by the imperial fomily 
 and the whole court. New proclamation being made, the emperor 
 advances into the field, and with his own hand on the plough drives 
 it until one acre of soil is upturned. This done, he scatters the 
 seed. Princes of the imperial family and distinguished members 
 of the court follow, and in like manner plough and sow the remain- 
 der of the field. After this, the emperor, with his family, court, 
 and ministers, repairs to a platform on the opposite side of the field, 
 
 TABLBT HALL. 
 
 on which is ( 
 
 makes a bun 
 
 tlie God of 1 
 
 Ila^-ing i 
 
 of the Tern- 
 
 edifice, on i 
 
 of the Win( 
 
 Grass, and th 
 
 ward conduc 
 
 in which plac 
 
 arched passa^ 
 
 they are butc 
 
 pared for the 
 
 ofierings are I 
 
 in which, aftei 
 
 mals, and all t 
 
 ants engaged i 
 
 On our wa 
 
 canopied orato 
 
 a dwarf, the o 
 
 stature. The 
 
 is copper-color^ 
 
 white. The cc 
 
 can black. T] 
 
 ilians. This si 
 
 fierce, wooden 
 
 and barrel, corn 
 
 Three thou 
 
 mighty spake d 
 
 on the western 
 
 Lord thy God. 
 
 slialt not make 
 
 thing tiiat is ir 
 
 that is ill the Wf 
 
 down to them, 
 
 jealous God." 
 
THE EMPEROR MAKES BURXT-0FFERING8. 
 
 173 
 
 oil Avliic'li is erected a large altar. Here, in the presence of all, he 
 makes a burnt-ofi'ering of oxen, sheep, goats, and other animals to 
 the God of Agriculture. 
 
 Having surveyed these more prominent places in the area 
 of the Temple of Agriculture, we next visited a great central 
 ediiice, on the walls of which arc tablets dedicated to the God 
 ot the Winds, the God of Thunder, the God of tlie Green 
 Grass, and the God of the Green Stalks of Grain. "NVe were after- 
 ward conducted to a sunken place, paved and walled with stone, 
 in which place the sacrificial animals are kept. We saw here the 
 arched passage through which they arc driven, the yard in which 
 tliey are butchered, the immense platform on which they are pre- 
 pared for the altar, the huge furnaces and kettles in which the 
 offerings are burned, and finally the oven, as large as a city bakery, 
 in which, after the sacrifice is completed, all the refuse of the ani- 
 mals, and all the garments and vestments of the priests and attend- 
 ants engaged in the sacrifice, are reduced to ashes. 
 
 On our way out of the temple, we stopped before a curious ivy- 
 canopied oratory, within which stand the shrines of three gods, one 
 a dwarf, the others larger, the three differnig in complexion as in 
 stature. The right figure, the God of the Sea, bears a trident, and 
 is copper-colored. The left figure is the God of Rain, and is pure 
 white. The central figure is the God of Benevolence, and is Afri- 
 can black. The Chinese divinities are always attended by guar- 
 dians. This singular group rejoices in the protection of a huge, 
 fierce, wooden soldier, armed with a veritable musket, lock, stock, 
 and barrel, complete. 
 
 Three thousand three hundred and sixty years ago, the Al- 
 mighty spake directly to a portion of the human race then residing 
 on the western shore of Asia, " these words, saying, I am the 
 Lord thy God. Thou shalt have no other gods before me. Thou 
 slialt not make unto thee any graven image or any likeness of any 
 thing that is in heaven above, or that is in the earth beneath, or 
 that is in the water under the earth. Thou shalt not bow thvself 
 down to them, nor serve them ; for I the Lord thy God am a 
 jealous God." 
 
 
 i 
 i ; 
 
174 
 
 JAPAN, CIIIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 The nations wliich have establislied themselves between tliu 
 Mediterranean shore, on which these words were si)o]cen, and the 
 eastern side (if the Pacific Ocean, have accepted and obeyed those 
 awful commands, and have built a common system of civilization 
 npon them. But the dwellers here on the eastern coast of China 
 liave not accepted either the idea that God is the Creator and 
 Supreme Director of the Universe, or that he is One God, or that 
 he is a jealous God. 
 
 It is not to be understood, however, that the national mind of 
 China has made no struggles to lift itself above the dead level of 
 materialism. We proceeded from the Temple of Agriculture to 
 visit one which is a monument of such a struggle. This is the 
 Te.nple of Buddha. The founder of the Buddhist faith did in- 
 deed reach the sublime truths expounded by Moses, that God 
 is spiritual, One, and jealous. But he could not hold fast tij 
 that exalted truth pure and simple. That taith, therefore, while 
 it accepts Buddlia as the Supreme Creator of the Universe, 
 teaches at the same time that, by various processes, occupying 
 long spaces of time, he becomes and remains incarnate on the 
 earth. This impersonation, bearing the name of the Grand Lama, 
 resides in Thibet, veiled from all mortal eyes but a purified and 
 sacred priesthood, which priesthood has its societies and orders 
 throughout China and all the East. It is a subject of curious re- 
 ilection that, as, in Europe and America, the nations uniformly 
 derive their revelations and systems of faith from the East, so, on 
 the eastern shores and islands of Asia, they with equal confidence 
 claim to have received their religious revelations from the West. 
 
 The Buddhists have two great temi)les at Peking—one in the 
 Tartar city, the other in the Chinese. It was the former which wo 
 visited. It consists of several immense edifices, which in the seven- 
 teenth century were the residence of an emperor, wdio becoming an 
 adherent to that religion surrendered his palace to the conmiunity 
 of Buddhist bonzes, and dedicated it to that form of worship. The 
 principal structure, built of brick and stone, is capable of holdinij; 
 three thousand persons ; the roof is supported with columns of cedar 
 brought from I>irmah, eighty feet high. A gigantic wooden statue 
 
THE TEMPLE OF BUDDHA, 
 
 17.-) 
 
 of Buddha towers from the floor to the roof. Its carved drapery, 
 while it leaves the form distinct, conceals the entire person except 
 the huge, jet-black face, fingers and toes. According to the tradi- 
 tion of the sect, the living Buddlia in Thibet had, at the time of his 
 incarnation, eighteen most saintly apostles who endured all manner 
 of trials and worked all manner of miracles. These eighteen 
 apostles, carved in wood, sit cross-legged in a circle around the 
 great idol, gazing at the soles of their feet, supposed to be an atti- 
 tude of divine contemplation. Vases of incense stand before the 
 (rod and each of the saints. The images are so far from havinii: anv 
 spiritual expression, that the faces of all, including that of Buddha, 
 are simply inane. All around the temple arc shrines, each of 
 which supports a diminutive female figure carved in bronze. Each 
 of these figures represents the virgin mother of the incarnate 
 r)uddha. It is not without probability that theologians suppose 
 that this idea, now universally held by the Buddhists, analogous to 
 that of the Madonna, is a modern innovation derived from some 
 early inculcations of the Christian Church. Certainly the similarity 
 is remarkable. One of our fellow-travellers at Shanghai bought a 
 hronze image of the mother of Buddha, with an inftir.t in its arms, 
 which, on examuiation, we concluded to be an antique figure of 
 tlie Virgin Mary. These statuettes to-day are carefully draped in 
 bright yellow silk, the thermometer having fallen last night to 32°. 
 AdmM-al Rodgers will verify another curious ornament which 
 arrested our attention in this temple. It is a picture which hangs 
 against the inner wall, and presents a view of the Last Judgment 
 — a celestial figure pronouncing sentence, the doomed descending 
 into a fiery abyss, the blessed rising into regions of felicity. It is 
 so like the conceptions of the middle ages, that the picture might 
 have been a study for Michael Angelo in the Sistine Chapel. 
 There are a thousand bonzes in the monastery attached to this 
 temple. They surrounded us on our way through it. Though 
 they wear a yellow uniform, they are ragged and unclean, and 
 appear in the last stage of mendicity. We shrank from too close a 
 contact with them. Tliey are ignorant, idle, and lazy. They seem 
 to have no efficient ecclesiastical superior, and to be amenable to 
 
 «s 
 
 -to 
 
 
 
176 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 no public opinion. In these respects they contrast very disadvan- 
 tageously with the cleanly, neat, and courteous bonzes whom wc 
 saw in Japan. Although a daily ritual service is read in the temple, 
 it everywhere exhibits the saddest evidences of neglect and dilapi- 
 dation. 
 
 After so broad a study of the practices of idolatry, we were now 
 prepared for the more pleasing ones of rationalistic institutions. 
 Escaping from the mendicant throng, who followed us to the outer 
 
 THE TEMl'LE OF OONITCIUS. 
 
 gate of the Buddhist monastery, we proceeded to the Temple of 
 Confucius. It is about as spacious as the Sena';e-hall in "Washing- 
 ton. After having been so long bedazzled and bewildered by tlic 
 Buddhist and other pagan temples in China, it %va8 not without 
 pleasant surprise that we found the great hall, which we now en- 
 tered, unique in design and simple in decoration. There is here 
 
THE TEMPI-E OF CONFUCIUS. 
 
 I i 
 
 neither idol nor imago, the likeness of any thing in the heaven 
 above, or the earth beneath, or in the waters nnder the earth, noth- 
 ing to bow down to or worship. There is neither altar, nor vase, 
 nor candelabra. Instead jf all these, there is, in a large niche in 
 the rear wall, a plain pedestal, which bears a modest red tablet, on 
 ^vhich is engraved, in letters of gold, the name " Confucius." The 
 architrave of the niche bears seven legends, the homages of the sev- 
 eral emperors, of the present dynasty, who have reigned since the 
 temple was built. These legends are as follows : 
 
 By KiA-KiNG. 
 
 " The holy one combined the great perfections." 
 
 By Kang-IIi. 
 " The leader and patron of all nations." 
 
 By YuNG-CiiiNG. 
 " Mankind has seen none like him." 
 
 By KiEN-LiNG. 
 " The equal of Heaven and Earth." 
 
 By Tai-Kwang. 
 "The holy one who assists in harmonizing the seasons." 
 
 By IIlEN-FuNG. 
 
 " Ilis virtue is all the virtue which can exist between the cano- 
 py of Heaven above and the Earth below." 
 
 FuxG-Cni, the present boy-emperor, contributes this : 
 " His holiness is divine ; Heaven cannot circumscribe it." 
 
 Around the sides of the room are arranged tablets dedicated to 
 eminent disciples of Confucius. Near the temple is the great 
 Palace Hall, where the annual competitive examination of pupils, 
 from all parts of the empire, is held. The construction of the Ex- 
 amination Chamber is at once convenient and elegant. We are 
 
 
 mi '■'<!■ 
 
not sure tliai it 
 amination Hall 
 11 plain tliroiie, 
 the purpose of 
 iners, with ben 
 The studies an 
 regarded as the 
 
 'A 
 
 
 riously coramitt 
 this hall with tl 
 of massive g. an 
 The square nioi 
 Confucius, the t 
 tions within tht 
 apartments for 
 bears, in govei 
 
THE ACADEMY. 
 
 179 
 
 not sure tliat it would be thought exceptional for Lyceum or Ex- 
 amination Hall at Yale or Harvard, It has a raised plattorni, with 
 ii ])lain throne, for the emperor, who annually attends here for 
 the puq)ose of conferring the degrees, and has ehai''s for the exam- 
 iners, with benches, raised in semicircular rows, for the candidates. 
 The studies are confined to the writings of Confucius, which are 
 regarded as the classics of China, and every word of which is labo- 
 
 ; I ' I H ' 1 '. U . 1 il, 
 
 iipi 
 
 ;iii''u^_ 
 
 
 ■mm. 
 
 iV'v!i''>i[|: ;•'/, 
 
 IMAOF. OP CONFUCrUS. 
 
 riously committed to momory. A long, covered corridor connects 
 this hall with the temple last described. This corridor has a row 
 of massive g/anitc columns. AYe could not stop to count them. 
 The square monoliths are completely covered with the writings of 
 Confucius, the text being the prescribed standard for all republica- 
 tions within the empire. The grounds contain twei>^e thousand 
 apartments for professors and scholars. The enthe institution 
 bears, in government language, the name of "academy." We 
 
 
180 
 
 JAPAX, CHINA, AXD COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 were sorry to find dl parts of the academy covered witli dust and 
 sand, and exhibiting evidence of mueli neglect, though not dihiin- 
 datcd like the temples. 
 
 Open any Chinese hook, ask any Chinese statesman or scholur, 
 and you will learn that Confucius is worshipped. Push the incjiiliv 
 further, and you will learn that he is worshipped not as a deitv, 
 but as a person of divine perfection. The absence of the custom- 
 ary symbols of worship in the Temple of Confucius confirms thi^; 
 view. The Chinese ambassadors at Washington refused to recognize 
 one of their young countrymen who had been educated at Fairfax 
 Theological Seminary for the Christian ministry. lie pleaded, as 
 an excuse for his conversion, the divinity of Christ. They replied : 
 "Why do we want another Christ ? We have a Christ of our o^\•^, 
 Confucius." A Chinaman, whom we met here, when pressed bv 
 one of our missionaries to accept the gospel of Jesus Christ as the 
 gift of God to man, replied : " Why is not a Christ born in Cliiua 
 as good as a Christ born in the United States ? " 
 
 This national habit of comparing Confucius with the Saviour 
 undoubtedly results from the similarity, in many respects, lotwcen 
 the teachings of Confucius and the Cnristian morals. The Chinese 
 reformer teaches no dogmatic theolog}^, either of materialism or 
 mysticism. He tolerates all such, however, while his code of m(»r- 
 als and manners is ada])tcd to all classes and conditions of society, 
 and to all forms of religious fsiith. The worshippers of heaven and 
 earth, the sun, moon, and stars, can accept the system of Coni'u- 
 cius, because it does uot interfere with any principles of their own. 
 The Buddhists entertjiin no jealousy of it. It fails, however, to 
 regenerate the empire; it is "of the eiirth, earthy." "As is the 
 earthy, such are they also that are r-arthy, and as is the heavenly, 
 such are they also that are heaverdy." The motive of duty to our 
 fellow-men must have its most effective spring in the sense of dutv 
 to God. No human being can have that sense, unless he has 
 accepted the truth that God is one, and that he is a Spirit to be 
 worshipped in spirit and in truth. 
 
 The day closed with an excursion through the imperial city, 
 and under the walls of the " prohibited " city. The grounds at- 
 
 tached to the 
 
THE PARADISE OF BIRDS. 
 
 181 
 
 tiiclied to tlic imperial palaces have an exquisite arrangement of 
 l:i\vn and grove, of hill and lake. These grounds are cultivated with 
 tliic care, and gave us the only scene we have found in Peking, or 
 indeed in China, exempt from the ravages of decay and desolation. 
 
 Novemher Wth. — AVe met, hist evening, the diplomatic society, 
 and all the foreigners residing iu Peking, in a pleasant reunion 
 at the British legation. 
 
 The imperial parks and gardens, the groves around the temples, 
 the waste places made by sieges and fires, not to speak of the mul- 
 titude of canals, fit Peking to be a paradise of birds, and the taste 
 cif the Chinese peoj)le favors their preservation. We are awakened 
 every morning by the cawing of the foraging army of crows going 
 out on their march to the cornfields outside the city. The sky 
 is blackened at sunset with the regiments returning to bivouac. 
 The crow is not here, howeve^- as among us, regarded with dislike. 
 He is taught solemn exercises, cunning acts, and winning ways. 
 Tiirushes, as large as our robins, and sparrows especially beautiful, " 
 abound, and game is more plentiful than poultry at home. The 
 pigeon, everywhere a ftivorite of man, is especially so here. Flocks, 
 whirling through the air at all hours of the day, arrest notice by 
 shrill and varied notes, which they never utter elsewhere. We 
 were a long time perplexed as to what particular species these birds 
 belonged, and in what way they produced these not unmusical 
 sounds. They are reared in dovecotes, and a light reed-whistle is 
 delicately fiistcned on the back of the bird, at the root of the tail- 
 fe:ither8. Many reasons arc assigned for this invention. The 
 most common one is, that it frightens the crows in their depreda- 
 tions. Another, that they protect the flocks against the birds of 
 prey. However this may be, the music produced on these ^Eolian 
 harps is sufficient to account for the practice, without looking for 
 any economical reason. 
 
 We have frequently recognized the pigeon in his office of letter- 
 carrier. He is the only postman employed in China, except the 
 swift-footed Government courier, whose toll is so great while his 
 reward is so small. What a change must come over the empire, 
 
 13 
 
 
 1 a 
 
 *^-1 
 
 ti 
 
182 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 when tliis postman gives place to the railroad, the express, aiul tlu; 
 electric telo/^raj»h ! Wo have not seen the magpie domcsticutcO, 
 but he keeps perpetual ward in the palaces, castles, and gates. 
 
 While we have been studying the birds of Peking, some meiii- 
 bors of our i>arty were making u new advance upon the Tem])le of 
 Heaven. What they saw nuist be recorded, less for the forbidden 
 knowledge which was gained than for the moral reflections which 
 it suggests. Mr. Coles, a pupil in the American legation, conduct- 
 ed a party of four, two of whom were ladies, along the high, paved 
 road in the direction of the temple. At a distance from the gate 
 he left them and threw himself into a mean, closely-covered nmle- 
 eart, in which he made his way unsuspected along the base of tlie 
 wall, until he reached the central gate, from which we had before 
 been repulsed. Emerging from the cart, he rushed into the ojtcii 
 gate-way, and planted himself by the side of the stern janitor, who 
 requested the unwelcome visitor to retire, and attempted to close 
 the gate. But the visitor stood firm, all the while beckoning to the 
 distant party to come up. The custodian now betrayed a con- 
 bciousness that he did " perceive here a divided duty." In any case 
 it was a duty to save the great altar from profanation by native or 
 foreigner, especially the latter. Secondly, since the Tien-Tsin nias- 
 s<acre the Government has strenuously commanded that in no case 
 Bliall offence be given to Christians. The custodian made the best he 
 cruld of the dilemma, and yielding to the resistance which he could 
 not overcome Avithout violence, he piteously implored from the in- 
 truder a douceur, by way of indemnity for the bastinado which 
 the Government was sure to inflict as a punishment for infidelity at 
 his post. Terms were liberally adjusted, and the party went suc- 
 cessfully through the temple, penetrating even the holiest of its 
 holies. The janitor hurried them forward, his fears of the bas- 
 tinado increasing with every minute of delay. His terror became 
 60 gi'eat that, when they had completed the examination and 
 returned to the gate, he demanded a larger sum for letting iliein 
 out than he had before received for letting them in. 
 
 To what a hum.iliating condition has the empire of Kublai-Xhan 
 fallen, when its sovereign dare !^nt suffer the foreigner to enter the 
 
WAN-SIANG'S LETTElt. 
 
 183 
 
 prcat national temple, through fear of domestic insurrection, nor to 
 forbid him from entering, through fear of foreign war ! 
 
 While tlie visitors confirm the descriptions of tlic magnilicencc 
 of the tom])lo which wo have before mentioned, they assure us also 
 that even in the Temple of Heaven, as in all the other edittces and 
 places we have visited, neglect and decay are indescribable. 
 
 AVan-Siang is president of the I>oard of Kites, and principal 
 ^Minister of Foreign Alfairs. Acting in concert with the regent 
 Prince Kung, AVan-Siang was the master-spirit who led theC'liineso 
 (Jovernment ui) to the resolution of entering into diplomatic rela- 
 tions with the AVestern powers. It was he who solicited and 
 ])r()cured from Mr. Seward at Washington a coj)y of Wheaton's 
 " Law of Nations," and caused it to be translated and adopted by 
 the inrperial Government. He, more than any other, was cfticient 
 in instituting the Burlingame mission. As has been before in- 
 timated, when we arrived he was nnder a leave of absence from 
 official duties for one year, on the double ground of his ill-health 
 and the duty of mourning for that period the death of his mother. 
 Under these circumstances Mr. Seward, the day after his audience 
 with the cabinet, addressed a note to Wan-Siang, sympathizing with 
 him in his illness, and proposing to visit the minister at his own 
 house. This note brought an autograph letter, beautifully written 
 on rose-colored Chinese official paper, as follows : 
 
 " I have long heard of your excellency's great fame, which for 
 many years has been cherished by all nations, and I myself have 
 exceedingly respected you and longed for a better acquaintance. 
 Since you have come to our country, its high authorities will be 
 still more desirous of seeing and conversing with you. But, as for 
 myself, an old malady having returned, I have been obliged to ask 
 u leave of absence, and it was an occasion of regret and disappoint- 
 ment that I was unable to meet you on the Tth instant, when 
 you visited the foreign office. I have had the honor to receive 
 your note of yesterday, in which you propose to yourself the great 
 trouble of coming to see me, an honor which I shall engrave in my 
 heart, and write on my bones. But my dwelling is mean and 
 small, and its condition would, I fear, be offensive to you, which 
 
 t..JI 
 
184 
 
 JAPAN^, CniNA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 Avould be a matter of deep regret to me. I have, therefore, set 
 apart the 11th instant to go and call on you at one o'clock in 
 the afternoon, if my health will in anywise enable mo to do so. 
 Wo can then converse at length. I shall be pleased to receive a 
 reply, and I avail myself of this occasion to wish that hai^pincss 
 may every day be yours." 
 
 The letter bore no signature, but enclosed within was the writ- 
 ten card of AVan-Siang. 
 
 At twelve another autograph card of Wan-Siang was delivered 
 to Mr. Seward, as an announcement: of the minister's app^'onch. 
 He arrived at the moment, in a green sedan-chair, with two 
 mounted attendants and four footmen. lie is a dignified and 
 grave person, and he went througli the ceremony of introduction 
 to Mr. Seward with ease and politeness. lie wore a rich dress 
 of silks and furs, and a mandarin's hat with a peacock's feather 
 and a coral ball on the top. Mr. Seward and Mr. Low sat down 
 with Wan-Siang, Dr. Williams acting as interpreter. Wan-Siang 
 said : 
 
 " I have been detained at my home one whole year by ill- 
 health. I should not have come out from it now, and perhaps 1 
 should never have come out from it again, but for my desire 
 to make your acquaintance. I have always known you as a firm 
 and constant friend of a just and liberal policy, on the part of 
 the Western nations toward China. I am surprised to see you so 
 vigorous after so laborious a public service. What may be your 
 honorable ao:e?" 
 
 Mr. Sewakd answered : " Sixty-nine." 
 
 Wan-Siang exclaimed : " Sixteen years older than I, and yet so 
 much stronger and more elastic ! You are going from your own 
 country around the M'orld, while I, alas! am unable to keep about 
 my own proper business at home." 
 
 Mk. Seward said: "Mr. Btirlingame's letters and conversa- 
 tions made me well acquainted with your character and your saga- 
 cious and effective statesmanship." 
 
 Wan-Siano : " We deplore the death of Mr. Burlingame. It is 
 a loss to China that he died before accomplishing his mission. 
 
 Mr. Burlingai 
 embassy was i 
 Mb. Sewa 
 its provisioni 
 courts. They 
 met Chi-Tajei 
 the treaty ha 
 Mr. Burb'ngan 
 China and the 
 In this view 
 honorable fam 
 
 WAN-Sli4NC 
 
 men interest I 
 be free to spea 
 
 Mr. Sewai 
 Western natio 
 and consuls, w 
 eign nations ac 
 be not foreiirnc 
 
 AVan-Siaxg 
 be educated he 
 qualified for th 
 
 Mr. Sewak 
 long. Chinese 
 and customs, i 
 they can acqn 
 already largely 
 interests of CI 
 for want of C 
 ing to the cus 
 tion and prot 
 oppression, 
 tlicre is no re 
 crn nations, as 
 lects the exch 
 at home." 
 
INTERVIEW WITH WAN-SI ANG. 
 
 185 
 
 Mr. Burlingame wrote to us from the United States how much the 
 embassy was indebted to you for its great success." 
 
 Mr. Seward : " Before the treaty was signed at "Washington, 
 its provisions were confidentially submitted to the European 
 courts. They gave us assuran . s that they would accept them. I 
 met Chi-Tajen and Sun-Tajen at Shanghai. They told me that 
 the treaty had been virtually accepted by the European states. 
 Mr. Burlmgame's mission was therefore a success, lie has brought 
 China and the West into relations of mutual friendship and accord. 
 In this view his death was not premature. He has raised an 
 honorable fame on a firm foundation." 
 
 "Wan-Siang: "Does any subject occur to you which is of com- 
 mon interest to China and the United States, on which you would 
 be free to speak ? " 
 
 Mr. Seward : " I thinlc China ought to reciprocate with the 
 Western nations by sending to them permanent resident ministers 
 and consuls, who should be of equal rank with those which the for- 
 eign nations accredit here. They ought, moreover, in all cases, to 
 be not foreigners, but native Chinese." > 
 
 "Wan-Siaxg : " We shall send such agents so soon as they can 
 be educated here in the Western sciences and languages, so as to be 
 qualified for their trusts." 
 
 Mr. Seward : " Better that they go unqualified than wait too 
 long. Chinese experts will learn Wcstcn sciences, languages, laws, 
 and customs, in the United States or v\ Lurope, much faster than 
 they can acquire them here. Moreover, Chinese immigration is 
 already lar^elv flowinsr into the United States. The rig-hts and 
 interests of Chinese immigrants are likely to suffer neglect there 
 for want of Chinese diplomacic and consular agents, who, accord- 
 ing to the customs of nations, are expected to invoke the atten- 
 tion and protection of the Government, in cases of injustice or 
 oppression. Again, there is no accord nor friendship where 
 there is no reciprocity. China is now regarded, by ail the West- 
 ern nations, as not merely unsocial, but hostile, because she neg- 
 lects the exchange of international courtesies abroad as well as 
 at home." 
 
 I 
 
186 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 "VVan-Siang : " These arc my own opinions. I liave always en- 
 deavored to bring them into practice." 
 
 Mr. Seward: "There is another point upon which I would 
 like to speak freely, if I should not be thought speaking in an un- 
 friendly way. I think I know the temper of the European states, 
 Chinese ministers are accorded a personal reception by the sover- 
 eigns of those nations. The Chinese emperor refuses a personal 
 reception to the foreign ministers here. Thus, the Chinese minis- 
 ter is admitted to a direct aecpiaintance with the President ■ f the 
 United States, with the Queen of England, and with the Emperor 
 of Itussia. A minister from either of those countries, on arriviuir 
 here, learns that the Emperor of China is too sacred a person to be 
 looked upon. This, to be sure, is only a cpiestion of ceremony and 
 etiquette ; but, my dear sir, questions of ceremony and eti(pietto 
 between nations often becouic the most serious and dangerous of 
 all international complications." 
 
 "VVan-Siaxg bowed courteously, but made no reply. 
 
 Mr. Low, interposing, sa-d : "• The subject is a delicate one just 
 now, but we are sure that Wan-Siang is the last statesman in China 
 to overlook it." 
 
 Mr. Seward : " Are the students, such as I saw yesterday nt 
 tlie Temple of Confucius, and who are the only allowed candidates 
 for official employments in China, instructed in modern Chinese 
 scicuces, or are they taught the ancient classics only?" 
 
 Wax-Siaxg : " Only the latter. I have attempted to procure 
 the establishment of an imperial college, in which modern sciences 
 and languages shall bo taught by foreign professors. For a while 
 I thought that I should succeed. But the effort has tailed, and has 
 brought me under deep reproach and general suspicion." 
 
 Mr. Seward : " This ought not to discourage you. Every mIso 
 minister at some time falls under temporary reproach and uiijust 
 suspicion. Piddic opinion, in every country, is a capricious sea. 
 AVhoevcr attempts to navigate it is liable to be tossed about by 
 storms." 
 
 AVak-Siano : " It is, as you say, indeed unavoidable. A states- 
 man stands on a hill. lie looks farther in all directions than the 
 
A DEPRESSED STATESMAN. 
 
 187 
 
 people, who are standing at the base, can see. When he points out 
 the course they ought to take for safety, they are suspicious that he 
 is misdirecting them. When they have at hist gained the summit 
 from which he pointed the way, they then correct their misjudg- 
 nient. But this, although it may be sufficient for them, comes too 
 late for the statesman.'" 
 
 Wan-Siang seemed to avoid contested questions, like a sick man 
 who is warned against excitement. lie turned the conversation 
 upon Prince Kung's admiration for Mr. Seward, and disappoint- 
 ment in tailing to meet him nt the foreign office, and his purpose 
 still to do so when recovered from his illness. "Wan-Siang then 
 fell into lamentations over his own prostrate health, and expressed 
 liimsclf dcspondingly concerning the future of China. After an 
 exchange of courtesies he withdrew, leaving on Mr. Seward's mind 
 the painful impression that Wan-Siang would die, before many 
 years, of a broken heart. 
 
 On inquiring the cause of Wan-Siang's mental depression, Mr. 
 Seward learned that it is due to the defeat of his plans for the col- 
 lege which he had mentioned. It is only just, however, to say 
 that a more hopeful view of that great and beneficent project is 
 entertained, not only by intelligent foreigners residing here, but by 
 Wan-Siang's associates in the (xovcrnment. 
 
 If we have exhausted the sights and wonders of Peking during 
 onr stay, certainly the city seems imconscious of it. The wretched 
 streets have become a little less muddy, and the general aspect 
 more cheerful, than when we came here ten days ago. 
 
 Li 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 VISIT TO THE GREAT WALL. 
 
 Preparations for the Trip. — Our Vchic'es. — Tlic Summer Palace. — Pagodas. — First Xiplu 
 uiuler a Chinese Koof. — A Chinese Tavern. — Approacli to the Great Wall. — The 
 Mongolians. — The Cost of the Wall. — Inquisitive Chinese. — The Second Wall. — The 
 Ming Tombs. — A Jlisguided Mule. 
 
 Ilijden, Novcmhcr \'^th. — Pekirig is on the parallel of 39° ~)\' . 
 The point of the (Jreat Wall which avc propose to visit is in a direct 
 north line about forty miles distant, on an elevation of two thou- 
 sand feet above the city. This altitude has a climatic eflect of nearly 
 Bevcn degrees of latitude. The climate there may therefore be un 
 derstood to be about the same in relation to Peking as the climate 
 of Lake Superior is to that of Kew York. "We provided against in- 
 clemency by a supply of furs and braziers. What Avitli onr strange 
 catskin caps, hmg foxskin coats, and high white felt boots, wo 
 scarcely claimed to know each other. The obstacles to the o.vcnr- 
 sion have not been over-estimated. They were not, however, of a 
 political nature, like those which opposed our journey to Pcldng. 
 They are chiefly material and local. Our arrangements were made 
 several days in advance, with Chinese common carriers, for the 
 necessary litters, carts, mules, donkeys, drivers, and attendants. On 
 the afternoon of the tenth, we saw Avith our own eyes a, combined 
 force of men and beasts enter the court ready to be caparisoned 
 an(^ packed during the night to start on the next day, just as soon 
 as Wan-Siang's expected visit should be over. It was not, how- 
 
A CHINESE CART. 
 
 189 
 
 ever, until eight o'cloclc last night that it was announced to us, not 
 only that the necessary complement of litters had not been ob- 
 tiiued, but also that they could not be procured in the city that 
 day. We acquiesced with such grace as we could, and appointed a 
 new hour for departure, namely, six o'clock this morning. 
 
 "We determined to retire early, Mrs. Low's ball to the contrary 
 notwithstanding. In vain was that " net spread in sight of these 
 birds." Wc rose at live o'clock. All the mules that had been 
 frathered the day before had been taken away during the night to 
 their customary stables. There was not one animal in the court- 
 yard. At eight o'clock two mules were lacking, but they had been 
 
 CUINESB CART. 
 
 Eont for. At nine, one of the mules whicli remained was taken 
 gick and was sent away to the hospital. At ten, it was replaced. 
 At half-past ten, the driver fell suddenly ill, and was sent home 
 
 
 
 r 
 
 it 
 
 ^ 
 a 
 
 JJ 
 
 I 
 
 mi a» 
 
190 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 unfit for duty. At noon, after we had been sitting tl ree hours 
 closely packed in our litters, the great gate opened, and the hwiz 
 procession, which, though a motley one, was completely orgi.nii.'::e(J 
 moved out. The roads we are to travel do not allow the use of 
 sedan-chairs. Only mnndarins are allowed the privilege of travel- 
 ling in mule-litters. Inferior persons are by the Board of Rilcs 
 
 TUB LITTlill, 
 
 confined to the use of the heavy, two-wheeled, closo-covcrcd mnle- 
 cart, indulgently called by Mr. Pnmpelly "a carriage." The cara- 
 van consists of eight covered litters for the less vigorous members 
 of the party. Each litter is borne by two mules harnessed between 
 the shafts, one before and one behind the litter. Each litter has an 
 extra mule for occasional service. It has also a driver on foot and 
 a muleteer on a donkcv. Then there are six carts, each drawn by 
 one mule, and attended by a driver who walks. All the aniuiab 
 
THE TEMPLE OF THE GREAT BELL. 
 
 191 
 
 ^vcar tinkling bells, which give warning to all can\el-drivcrs and 
 whomsoever else it may concern, that a wide berth is required by 
 the ostentatious occupar.ts of the litters. Our way out of the city 
 was through the North Gate. It brought in review, as we passed, 
 the wayside traffic and St.^eet amusements of this singular people. 
 Every thing to eat, to drink, and to wear, is prepared and sold in 
 booths, and every thing needful in daily life and death, including 
 cotiins, is made and mended there. Tliese booths are interspersed 
 at short distances with theatres, show-rooms, and gambling-dens. 
 Yon see an hourly performance of Punch with a pigtail, and Judy 
 with cramped feet, thimblerig, harlequin, cards, dice, and magic. 
 Occasionally we meet a lady " of the better sort," closely cushioned 
 in a sedan-chair, more frequently " other women," with or without 
 chiklrcn, heaped and packed in horrible carts. Only virtuous and 
 respectable people are allowed this indulgence. These women are 
 (ravly dressed, painted white and red, and wear large chrysanthe- 
 mums, or rosettes, in their hair. The very few women whom wc 
 pass in the streets are accounted both vulgar and vicious. The 
 booths and theatre were not the only obstacles in our line of 
 inarch. We jostled against long camel-caravans ; funeral-proces- 
 sions, which, by the affectation of solemnity, made a mockery of 
 death; and wedding-processions, which, withont a pretence to rc- 
 tiucmcnt or delicacy, make tlie marriage ceremony a vulgar spec- 
 tacle. At Ta-tsoon-tsa, a dull and cheerless suburb, two miles be- 
 yond the gate, we halted for refreshments, at the Buddhist temple 
 of the Great Bell. 
 
 In China, temples and Buddhist monasteries are freely opened 
 for tlie entertainment of travellers. Two monks assisted our ser- 
 vants in preparing lunch. The Temple of the Great Bell is humble 
 compared with those in the city, but, although much dila]Mdated, is 
 in a more cleanly condition than any wc have seen in China. It 
 rejoices in one of eight immense bron/o bells which were cast 
 at Peking in the year 1400 of onr era, by the Emperor Yung-Lo. 
 It is of the ordinary bell-shape, eighteen feet high, with a mouth 
 thirty-six feet in circumference. It has a small, circular aperture 
 at the top, adapted to the apparatus for suspending the boll. It is 
 
 
 C "fi 
 
 K- 
 
 I,. 3 
 
192 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 literally covered inside and out with raised texts in very small 
 Chinese characters, in all numbering, it is claimed, eighty-lbur 
 
 eUMMEB PALACE. 
 
 thousand. The bell is made to sound by being beaten with a heavy 
 wooden club. 
 
 A further drive of six miles brought us to the Yuen-Min-Yiicn, 
 familiarly called the Emperor's Summer Palace. Since the time 
 of the Mine: dvnasty, Yuen-Min-Yuen was the Versailles of China 
 until 1800, when it was sacked, plundered, and dcsti'oyed, by the 
 British and French allied armies in their advance on Peking. It 
 is not in our way now to describe its former glory, or to relate the 
 story of its catastrophe. "We must be content in writing what mc 
 see and how we see it. The grounds of Yuen-Min-Yuen arc an 
 area of twelve square miles. It once contained thirty extensive 
 and costly palaces used by the emperor and court. The invaders 
 related that the architecture, furniture, and embellishments of 
 
CANALS OF THE fiTTMMER PALACE. 
 
 193 
 
 Viicn-Min-Yucn, as they found it, wore a luippy and effective coni- 
 biiKition of Oriental and AVestcrn luxury and elegance. Many 
 
 streams, gathered on adjacent 
 
 moinitain-slopes, arc brought 
 into large artilicial lakes, and 
 thence distributed by deep 
 and clear canals throuc-h the 
 grounds, and then used equal- 
 ly for pleasure, navigation, 
 and irrigation. The canals, 
 after performing these serv- 
 ices, unite and How throno;h 
 a broad and deep canal into 
 Peking, where they constitute 
 the great and picturesque lake 
 which we have before men- 
 tioned as the finest ornament 
 of the imperial city. "VVh'Ic 
 the canals have been built 
 with excellent masonry, they 
 are crossed with graceful mar- 
 
 ble bridges in various direc- 
 tions. The fields, meadows, 
 and lawns, are fertile, but 
 now in a condition of com- 
 plete neglect and waste. At 
 the centre of the plain a cir- 
 cular rocky islet rises abrupt- 
 ly to a height of two hun- 
 dred and fifty feet. This arti- 
 ficial hill is traced with spiral 
 terraces which fascinate the 
 visitor by continually bring- 
 ing into view palaces, pavil- 
 ions, pagodas, temples, all 
 half concealed by hanging 
 
 S*'* 
 
 ■*s 
 
 
 1 ■? 
 
 
 
 .:4 
 
 ■ i 
 
 ■ /^ 
 
 M 
 
 "^'1 
 
 
 
194 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 gardens and proves, wliicli are embellished with fountains, statuary 
 and shrines. The summit is crowned with an imperial sunnnor- 
 house in the Italian style, its wall richly frescoed, and its roof 
 glistening with blue and yellow porcelain. One of the delights of 
 Yuen-Miu-Vuen was a unique temple, wrought of polished bronze, 
 standing on the acclivii. ..is islet. We shall never weary of 
 
 the Chinese pagoda. One of those at Ynen-Min-Yuen, which, with 
 the temple last mentioned, preserves much of its form and beautv, is 
 a gem of that sort of structures. It is of slender proportions, and 
 built entirely of porcelain of variegated colors. There must Ikuc 
 been a time when the sculptor of China, while he disdained to copy 
 foreign models, had learned how to bring Greek and Roman taste 
 and art to give effect to national designs. Although the lions, the 
 sphinxes, and the dragons, which are profusely displayed here, are 
 imaginative conceptions, any one of them would, by its exquisite 
 execution, excite rdmiration in Eui'ope. 
 
 The destruction of this magnifi, it palace by the allies presents 
 one of those painful subjects concerning which agreement can never 
 be expected between the generous and the unsympathetic portions 
 of mankind. The allies say that the demolition was a just and even 
 necessary retaliation against the emperor for the cruelty practised 
 by the Chinese Government toward Sir Harry Parkes. The friends 
 of art throughout the world will agree with the Chinese scholars 
 and statesmen, who complain that the destruction of these ancient 
 and ornamental palaces, with the plunder of their stores of art, was 
 useless to the invaders, and therefore indefensible. For our own 
 part, we have always thought that the British army might have 
 spared the Capitol and the presidential mansion in 1814 ; and we 
 now think that the allies might have spared Yuen-Min-Yuen. 
 However this inay be, the fact remains that the Emperor of China, 
 ruler of the oldest monarchy in the world, is the only sovereign 
 who is confined to a single residence, and that in the heart of a 
 crowded and walled city. The ruins are now without tenants, as 
 the temples are without priests or worshippers. Speculators and 
 adventurers boldly barter for the disfigured statuary and for the 
 polished capitals, shafts, and pedestals, of the bronze temple. The 
 
THE DECAY OF CHINA. 
 
 195 
 
 roads are impassable, the marble bridges broken down, the canals 
 choked, the gardens, groves, and walks, have become devastated, and 
 tlic plain itself is fast becoming a stagnant marsh. Washington, 
 licrlin, Vienna, and Moscow, have repaired the disasters they have 
 respectively suffered, but the Chinese Government has no resources 
 or spirit for renovation. The decay of Yuen-Min-Yuen must, 
 therefore, continue until these " round and splendid " gardens shall 
 become a maze as imintelligible to the traveller as the palace of the 
 Caisars at Rome. 
 
 It remains to be said that these imperial pleasure-resorts were 
 surrounded by populous cities and villages, whose inhabitants 
 derived their living from ministering to the needs and pleasures 
 of the court. These cities and villages are now abandoned to bats 
 and vermin. 
 
 Arriving here after dark, we brought our long and hha7're pro- 
 cession to a halt in the open streets, because the court-yard of the 
 iun would not hold litters and carts with the teams attached. It 
 is hard to say how either Mr. Seward or the ladies could have been 
 able to alight and thread their way among the busy, curious crowd 
 which thronged the narrow, crooked streets, but for the assistance 
 of Admiral Rodgers and the consul-general. We came in safely, 
 however, to have our first experience of lodging under a Chinese 
 roof. 
 
 Nan^Kow^ Nommher VUK. — The mule litter is comfortable, 
 and its movement easy, but it makes only two miles an hour. 
 The "cribbed, cabined, and confined," solitary occupant finds 
 the travel tedious. We have learned, however, to relieve the 
 weariness by occasional changes with the muleteer and the donkey- 
 driver. 
 
 The first part of our journey to day was over a level table-land. 
 The road has been only a narrow, uneven, stony path, impassable 
 with any vehicle other than those we have chosen. During the 
 last two hours, we have climbed six hundred feet of the mountain 
 slope, and have reached the foot of the' Nan-Kow Pass, up which 
 wc must go to reach the Great Wall. With the usual ruggedness 
 
 
100 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 of mountain scenery, no j)art of the country ailbrds any relief to 
 the general aspect of desolation. Fahrenheit 32°. 
 
 '" - -^^i;':... "^-^ 
 
 NAN-KOW PASS. 
 
 With few exceptions, the houses here are built of adobe, with 
 thatched roofs, and only one story high. Our inn is of this sort, 
 and consists of a low range of very small apartments, built against 
 the wall on the four inner sides of a large, unpaved square. Wo 
 have to-night, as last night, secured the entire inn. Entering from 
 the street, we have on that side of the square a row of apartments 
 which are divided by the gate. On the right of the gate are the 
 rooms, or offices, occupied by the manager or keeper of tlie inn, 
 where orders are received. On the left, a kitchen, or a series of 
 immense cooking- houses, where victuals are cooked after the Chinese 
 
 fashion, sufflcie 
 
 niiirvoUous whi 
 
 exliibits. The 
 
 as he pleases. 
 
 do. Proccedin 
 
 of apartments 
 
 according to th 
 
 rooms. At the 
 
 same sort, whic 
 
 sleeping-apartn 
 
 series of accom: 
 
 and attendants 
 
 ing to their tast 
 
 harness block u 
 
 it or through it 
 
 inents, though ' 
 
 uses to which m 
 
 no corridor or 
 
 tion between th 
 
 arc about ten fe 
 
 disjointed flat si 
 
 swept. The do 
 
 One small wind 
 
 be covered, wit] 
 
 nor where the n 
 
 witli which he h 
 
 have hired utenf 
 
 and cloaks supp] 
 
 of each apartme 
 
 the stone floor. 
 
 reverberatory fli 
 
 The platform thi 
 
 stead of the apa 
 
 common bed. 1 
 
 it retains its hea 
 
 replenish it at yo 
 
A CHINESE INN. 
 
 197 
 
 fashion, sufKcicnt, wc should think, to suj)ply the whole town. It is 
 mtirvollous what economy of fuel, labor, and provisions, this kitchen 
 exhibits. The guest at the inn may supply himself from it or not, 
 us he pleases. Perhaps, it is needless to say that foreigners never 
 do. Proceeding through the square, we have on one side a row 
 of apartments just like the others, which are i)romiscuously used, 
 according to the exigencies of the occasion, for stables or lodging- 
 rooms. At the farther side of tiic square are four rooms of the 
 same sort, which we have appropriated for parlor, dining-room, and 
 sleeping-apartments. On the other side of the square, a similar 
 series of accommodations for man and beast. The animals, drivers, 
 and attendants are disposed of in their lodgings^nd stables, accord- 
 ing to their tastes. The litters and carts with their clumsy, ragged 
 harness block up the court-yard, so that there is no getting across 
 it or through it, without a guide and a lantern. Our own apart- 
 ments, though we have called them by names which designate the 
 uses to which we have appropriated them, are all alike. There is 
 no corridor or veranda within or without, and so no communica- 
 tion between them except through the open court-yard. The rooms 
 arc about ten feet square and seven feet high ; the floors of uneven, 
 disjointed flat stones, and they seem to have been never washed or 
 swept. The doors are rude, full of crevices, and without fastenings. 
 One small Avindow in each room has a sash, covered, or meant to 
 be covered, with dingy, torn, oiled i:)aper. We do not know how 
 nor where the manager of the inn procured the one table and chair 
 with which he has furnished our chosen dining-room. Our servants 
 liavc hired utensils in the kitchen to prepare our supper. Our bags 
 and cloaks supply the deficiency of chairs. Across one entire end 
 of each apartment is a brick platform, raised eighteen inches above 
 the stone floor. Under this platform is a sunken furnace with 
 reverberatory flues, so placed as to heat every part of the surface. 
 The platform thus heated, and called the Imng, is the common bed- 
 stead of the apartment, and the bamboo-mat spread over it is the 
 common bed. A good fire being built in the kang in the evening, 
 it retains its heat generally during the night. You may, however, 
 replenish it at your pleasure. The bedstead accommodates, if neces- 
 
 
 i'm 
 
 tr\ 
 
198 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 sary, ten persons, who strotcli themselves out upon it side by side 
 without making any change of clothing, wrapping themselves in 
 their sheep-skin jackets. 
 
 We, of course, have a separate room for each of our party. Our 
 servants liave brought in the cushions, blankets, and furs, from our 
 litters, and with these, by the aid of our dressing-cases, wo are able 
 to make a pretence of toilets. We have even extemporized cur- 
 tains, which are close, though not of damask. The kang is throw- 
 ing out a genial heat through the room. We lie down upon it 
 with the stars twinkling brightly through the broken paper panes 
 of the only window. 
 » 
 
 November \Uh, Morning. — Our mules are not reliable for tlio 
 part of our journey which remains. AVe have ordered mountain- 
 chairs and coolies, and while they are coming we have made a 
 complete tour of the inn. In the East, the travellers are generally 
 merchants or government agents. As there are no carriage-roads, 
 every one uses one, two, three, or more beasts. Forage is cum- 
 brous, and therefore becomes the most serious care of the inn- 
 keeper Dwellers in the East invariably live in close intimacy 
 with their beasts ; hence cleanliness is a virtue scarcely known. 
 The inn, which last night seemed to us not absolutely destitute of 
 comfort, this morning is offensive and disgusting. 
 
 Nan-Kow^ I^ovcmher 14M, Evening. — We have done it! Wc 
 have seen the Great Wall. AVe have scaled its rampart, walked 
 through its gates, examined its bastions, trodden its parapet, looked 
 (»ff from its battlements, and rested under its shade. llcgardin<«: 
 this as the greatest achievement of our journey thus for, we slionld 
 desire to set down minutely and deliberately each one of its inci- 
 dents ; but, hurried as we are by threatening Avinter, wo have only 
 time [() describe the prominent features, and record an occasional 
 thought. 
 
 (Jhina might be designated as a country of fortifications and 
 walls. Without being aware of this, we have already mentioiuMJ 
 the walls of Shanghai, Tien-Tsin, Tung-Chow, and the triple walls 
 
 '■'^'&Mmm 
 
(X 
 
 
 u 
 
 'V» 
 
 S.:} 
 
200 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 1 
 
 of the city of Peking. This little l ity of Kan-Kow has fortifications 
 adequate to the largest garrison. Inscriptions on the gate-wajs and 
 arches in four different dialects, Mongolian, Mantchoorian, Chinese, 
 and Thibetian, besides another dialect which is no longer extant, 
 prove the great antiquity of these structures. Besides these fortifi- 
 cations, Nan-Kow is encircled by a wall which stretches over hill 
 and valley in such a way that, while it is no longer useful for any 
 purpose of defence, one cannot but hope that it may be preserved 
 
 GATE AT NAN-KOW. 
 
 for picturesque effect. Thus we seem here not to be seeing the 
 present China, but the China of the past. 
 
 From the very gate of Nan-Kow, we found neither regular 
 road, nor marked nor beaten track, but a ravine, which, in the 
 
MOUNTAIN TRAVEL. 
 
 201 
 
 
 rcLijuliir 
 
 lapse of ages, a torrent lias excavated down the mountain, falling a 
 thousand feet in a distance of twelve miles. Our upward way lay 
 in the rugged furrow of this torrent. Each passenger was lashed 
 tightly in his "mountain" chair, which is simply an arm-chair 
 mounted on two shafts, and borne "by four coolies, his safety de- 
 pending on the tenacity with which his feet press against a swing- 
 ing board suspended before him from the shafts. The coolies pick 
 their way by crossing from one side to the other over uneven, 
 broken bowlders and rocks, and through deep gullies. The passen- 
 ger at one moment is in danger of slipping out backward from his 
 chair, at another of being thrown out one side or the other, and 
 again of being dashed headlong on the rocks before him. In some 
 places the torrent is dry, in others the coolies are slipping over 
 treacherous ice, or splashing through pools of water among rounded 
 pebbles and sharp rocks ; in short, over every thing but dry earth. 
 Steep mountains exclude the sun's light and heat at nearly all hours 
 of the day. Those mountains are timberless, tenantless, dry, and 
 brown. The geological formation of the pass is an alternation of 
 granite, gneiss, red and yellow sandstone, porphyry, and marble. 
 
 Having said that our road has none of the qualities and condi- 
 tions of a thoroughfare, it will seem strange when we now say that 
 at intervals we encounter, through the whole pass, blocks of hewn 
 and polished marble, with other debris of pavements, culverts, 
 bridges, arches, and gates, indicating that it was once a military 
 road superior to the Appian Way of Rome. 
 
 Only Love, that "laughs at locksmiths," could maintain his 
 sway in this dreary region. We met, in one of the most fearful 
 gorges, a magnificent crimson wedding-car, which was coming 
 down from Kiakhta, to receive a bride at Peking. We encounter 
 on the way a class of travellers that we have not before met. They 
 come not in sedan-chairs, mule-litters, or carts, but on horses, cam- 
 els, and donkeys ; and of these there is an endless procession. The 
 beasts are loaded with wheat, barley, hemp, flax, and wool. Thirty 
 camels make up a single train. One man leads each six of the 
 beasts by means of a cord to which the halter of each is attached. 
 Rocking from side to side, and unceasingly chewing their cuds 
 
 l4 M 
 
 
202 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA, 
 
 II 
 
 as tliey move slowly along, they excite interest by their patience, 
 docility, and perseverance. Ro'^gli and vehement as the camel- 
 driver seems, we have not seen him inflict a blow, or utter a word 
 of impatience toward the gentle beasts. 
 
 Another class of travellers are herdsmen. Mongolia and 
 Mantchooria, beyond the Great Wall, are pasturages, and the 
 flocks of sheep and herds of cattle which are raised there are 
 brought chiefly through this pass, to be spread over the great 
 p'ain of North China. 
 
 The Mongolians dress altogether in furs and skins. They have 
 an air of independence and intelligence not observable in China 
 proper. The women are particularly strong, and, as we judge 
 from their manner, entirely free. Their furs are richer than those 
 of the men, and they wear a profusion of silver ornaments on the 
 fore \ wrist, and ?nkle, as well as suspended from their ears 
 and nose. They travel with their husbands, who divide with them 
 the care of the children. If it is discouraging to some at home to 
 wait for tl e restoration of woman's rights, it is pleasant to find her 
 in the full enjoyment of them here, in spite of Oriental prejudices 
 and superstitions. The mountain-cliffs are ornamented at conven- 
 ient and prominent points with pretty temples and unique shrines, 
 and pious devices and legends are carved on what seem to be in- 
 accessible basaltic rocks. But the temples and shrines, no longer 
 attended by votaries, are falling into ruin. 
 
 Reaching at length the source of the mountain-torrent which 
 has made such fearful devastation, we found ourselves in a dell 
 surrounded by mountains, and from their crests the Great Wall 
 encircling and frowning down upon us. Our chairmen at once, 
 with renewed vigor and elasticity, carried us up a rugged declivity 
 of a quarter of a mile, clambering over shivered and shattered 
 rocks, and set us down within a redoubt at the verv base of the 
 wall, three hundred feet above the dell which we had left. The 
 wall varies in he-'ght from twenty-five to fifty feet. The base hei'c, 
 twenty feet high, is built of solid, hewn granite. 
 
 We were not long in ascending the well-preserved flight of 
 stone steps which led to the parapet. The top of the wall is 
 
REFLECTIONS ON THE GREAT WALL. 
 
 203 
 
 wide enough for two carriages to pass. From the parapet we oon- 
 templated the conquered China of the past, which was hclow us, 
 and the conquering Tartary of the past, which was above us, both 
 now under one regime^ and constituting one vast, but crumbhng 
 empire. In the embrasures of the parapet we found, here and 
 there, a cast-iron grooved cannon of four-pound calibre. It passed 
 our comprehension to conceive when it was put there, or for what 
 purpose. We entered a watch-tower on our left, and saw, at a dis- 
 tance of forty miles, murky Peking. 
 
 The Great AVall crosses twenty-one degrees of longitude from 
 the Pacific coast to the desert border of Thibet, and with its wind- 
 ings has a length of from twelve hundred to fifteen hundred miles. 
 It seems almost incredible that this gigantic structure, the greatest 
 fortification that has been built by human hands, could have been 
 raised in the short space of about twenty years. Yet liistory 
 assures us that Chin-Wangti began the work in the year 240 b. c, 
 and finished it in 220 b. c. Nor is the perfection of the work less 
 wonderful than the dispatch with wdiich it was built. Although it 
 here and there exhibits crumbling arches and falling ramparts, it 
 nevertheless stands more firmly and in better preservation than 
 any ancient structure, except perhaps the Pyramids. Yery slight 
 repairs would restore it to its original state. 
 
 " Admiral Rodgcrs," said Mr. Seward, as we leaned against the 
 immovable parapet, " will you take your pencil and make an esti- 
 mate of the comparative cost of constructing a mile of this wall, at 
 the present day, with that of a mile of the Pacific Railroad? " 
 
 The two gentlemen went through the process together, and 
 agreed in the result that the cost of building such a wall as this, in 
 the United States to-day, would exceed the entire cost of all the 
 railroads in that country. 
 
 "I never before," said Mr. Seward, "found myself in a position 
 so suggestive of reflection. This great monument tells, in brief, the 
 history of China. Aboriginal tribes of the Mongolian race, forty 
 or fitty centuries ago, left cold and sterile homes in the north, 
 spread themselves over the southeastern portion of the continent 
 of Asia, established there a kingdom, and built up a prosperous and 
 
 
 i: » 
 
204 
 
 JAPAN", CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 highly-refined state. They were annoyed by incursions and dep- 
 redations from the same northern steppes wliicli they had left 
 behind them, just as England was so long annoyed by incursions 
 and depredations of the Picts and Scots, Danes and Saxons. Chin- 
 Wangti, king of civilized China, built this great wall to protect the 
 country against those nomadic tribes. The completion of so great 
 a work justified him in laying aside the modest title of king, and 
 assuming the more ambitious one of emperor — the first emperor 
 of China. It is not an unimportant consideration that the culmina- 
 tion of the Chinese Empire, marked by the construction of the Great 
 Wall, was coincident with the decline of Grecian arts and arms and 
 with the establishment of Roman empire on the western shores of 
 Asia. The Great Wall served its purpose through the period of 
 fourteen hundred years. But, during this time, wealth and luxury 
 increased in China, while moral vigor declined. An enervated state 
 provoked the rapacity of its neighbors. Kublai-Khan effected a 
 combination of all the Tartar and Mongolian hordes of the north. 
 They forced the wall, conquered and enslaved China. Chinese 
 morals and manners, however, subdued and modified the character 
 of their conquerors. The wall ceased to be needful, because the 
 Chinese and Tartars became reconciled, assimilated, and contented, 
 under the sway of the Mantchoorian dynasty. How little can 
 human foresight ever penetrate the remote future! How little 
 Chin-Wangti understood of the fate of the Great Wall. Is it not 
 well that human power cannot bind or control for an indefinite 
 future the destinies of any nation ? " 
 
 Occupied with such reflections as these, we took no note of the 
 hours until the shadows began to fall, and the wind became cold 
 and bleak. We descended and sat at the base of the rampart, 
 where we found a dinner spread upon an uneven table of broken 
 granite blocks. 
 
 " Admiral," said Mr. Seward, " our Government informed me, 
 when I was coming abroad, that you were instructed to show me 
 courteous attentions, if I should be so fortunate as to meet you in 
 Asiatic waters. You have executed these instructions in a manner 
 equally considerate and kind. You not only received me at 
 
A LONELY TRAMP. 
 
 205 
 
 Shanghai with the usual naval demonstrations of respect, but, with 
 your official staff, you have accompanied me, in the character of a 
 protector as well v". a friend, thiough the stormy Yellow Sea, the 
 agitated political scenes of Tien-Tsin, up the tedious Pei-ho, over 
 the desolate plains of Tung-Chow to Peking, and from there to the 
 Great Wall, where we can look back together on the declining 
 power of China, and forward to the coming of AVestern civilization 
 from the shores of our own country to the Asiatic coast." 
 
 The admiral replied: "I have esteemed myself fortunate, as 
 well as happy, in having had an opportunity of attending you to 
 Peking and the Great Wall — fortunate in having your ripe and 
 varied experience to assist me in forming opinions, and in drawing 
 deductions from what I have seen ; happy in the continual familiar 
 intercourse with me whom it is not only a duty, but a pleasure, to 
 honor. Truly do I hope that your health may continue no less 
 robust, and your endurance no less marked, than in our rough ex- 
 perience together, and that your personal observations in other 
 climes, of other peoples, may not be of less interest and benefit to 
 mankind than those you make here." 
 
 Our party broke into detachments and all communications be- 
 tween its members ceased. What a lonely tramp did we now have ! 
 At length we reached the half-way coolie station. There the 
 bearers set us down outside, while they went into the huts to re- 
 fresh. Half a dozen men and boys came around the ladies' chairs, 
 and proceeded to examine their dresses, unable to determine 
 whether the habiliments were those of man or woman. Well they 
 might be perplexed. The Astrakhan cap might be worn by either. 
 The long, heavy fox-skin coat and white mandarin boots were 
 equally perplexing. They drew the gloves from oflt' the fingers. 
 These rudenesses were disturbing enough, but at last became unen- 
 durable when they thrust their fingers into the hair, and oftered 
 their filthy pipes, inviting a general smoke. Just then, when the 
 ladies seemed to have passed completely beyond the society of their 
 own race, they heard the shrill voice of a baby within the hut, crying 
 not especially in the Chinese language, but in the universal dialect 
 of infancy, with the response of the soothing lullaby of the mother, 
 
 
206 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND OOCIIIN CHINA. 
 
 equally nrtural. These incidents reassured the ladies, and showed 
 them that the Chinese are yet human, and they gave over all 
 thoughts of fear and torment. 
 
 After a march of three more tedious hours, we have reached the 
 same wretched inn which we left this niornin<5. Wo conclude the 
 notes of our journey by mentioning that, a thousand years, more or 
 less, after the wall was built by Chin-Wangti, a second one vas 
 built for greater security, at the eastern end, forty miles south of 
 the original one, both of which remain standing. It is this second 
 wall last built, but similar to and constituting a part of the original 
 system of defence, that we have visited. 
 
 Ming Toinhs^ November loth. — Resuming our litter, and mov- 
 ing early this morning, we came down from the mountain terrace, 
 and entered a smooth, level, circular plain, seeming more like u 
 bay which indents a high, rochy coast, than the amphitheatre (^f 
 landscape and mountain Avhich it is. The terrace which surrounds 
 the plain was chosen by the emperors of the Ming dynasty for an 
 
 UATP.9AY AT MINQ TOMBS. 
 
THE MIXG TOMBS. 
 
 207 
 
 imperial cemetery. It is divided into thirteen areas, seemingly of 
 e([iial extent. Each of these areas is covered with luxnriant gar- 
 dens, out of the midst of which rises u magnificent mausoleum, 
 called here a temple, but which is in fact a tomb. Dr. Williams 
 tells us that "Ming" means "bright." The "Bright" dynasty 
 nourished from the close of the fourteenth to the middle of the seven- 
 teenth century. Nanking, for a time the capital, has a cemetery 
 of the earlier rulers of that dynasty. But we understand that it is 
 not so Avell prcGcrved as .this. 
 
 All the tombs arc of one type. We visited that of Yung Lo, 
 one of the most distinguished of the emperors of China. His 
 decrees of laws and manners, grounded on the Avritings of Con- 
 fucius, with some alteration, constitute even now the code of the 
 Chinese Empire. We sat down here to rest in an ancient grove of 
 persimmons, live-oaks, acacias, and cypresses. 
 
 "It seems," said Mr. Seward, "that it is not until society 
 reaches a high state of civilization in any country that it learns the 
 absurdity of sepulchral monuments. Great achievements and rare 
 virtues leave an impression upon mankind so deep, that they need 
 no monumental reminder, while the attempt to supply the want of 
 that impression by extravagant art is a mockery." But let us see 
 how the Chinese of the past ages honored their illustrious dead. It 
 is manifest that the device of a series of concentric structures, rising 
 one above the other, is a favorite form of Chinese architecture. 
 This vast monument con<"?.iiiS five courts, one within the other. 
 The structures are two temples, disconnected and distant from 
 each other, but essentiallv alike in design and construction — the 
 outer one serving as a vestibule to the inner or principal one. 
 This inner temple, with its red walls and its plain balustrades and 
 railings, is in form and style quite like the great Temple of Con- 
 fucius at Peking. Its ])roportions are equally grand, tasteful, and 
 sinqile. Its massive yellow-porcelain roof, with its bright grecn- 
 and-gold ceiling, rests upon two rows of wooden columns, of which 
 there are thirty in each — the columns fifty feet high, with a 
 diameter of four feet at the base. Behind the temple and in the 
 fourth court stands an uncovered altar, the top of which is a mono- 
 
 t1 
 
208 
 
 JAl'AX, CHINA, AND CUC'IIIN CHINA. 
 
 litli muasiirinr^ twenty-two feet by five feet. Directly behind tlio 
 altiir is a pai^oda of three stories. Entering this pagoda throiio], 
 an arclied door, you confront a hirge tablet of red and gold, whie-li 
 covers the remains of Yung Lo. You then ascend not a staircase, 
 but a long and winding inclined plane, some sixty feet, to the sec- 
 ond story. This second story rises seventy feet ; in the centre 
 of this is a smaller tablet, like the one in the iirst story. The thin] 
 story, reached in the same way, is an open space under the roof. 
 
 Although we observe, in these buildings and grounds, marks of 
 care and attention not elsewhere seen in China, there is neverthe- 
 less painful evidence that the work of dilapidation has begun even 
 here. 
 
 The path by which we reached the cemetery was an indirect 
 one. Contrary to usage, therefore, we made our exit instead of our 
 entrance by the avenue designed for approach from Peking. This 
 avenue is twenty-two miles long, Avell graded, and originally was 
 paved in the most substantial manner. This road descends from 
 the tomb-covered terrace upon the level plain, at a distance of one 
 mile from the tomb of Yung Lo. Here it crosses a stream or 
 canal by a noble marble bridge, not wholly ruined. This bridge is 
 graced with Mdiat is here called the honorary arch, a majestic gate- 
 way, built not for use but for effect, like the triumphal arches of 
 Rome or Paris. A mile flirther the road leaves the level plain 
 under a similar arch. Having passed these gates, we found the 
 avenue adorned, for the length of a whole mile, by a row, on either 
 side, of gigantic granite figures. AVhoever may read these njfcs 
 will remember that the proper order of these colossal figures is 
 the reverse of that in which we passed them. First, we came be- 
 tween two rows of statues representing philosophers and moralists, 
 four on each side of the way. Then four generals, arranged in like 
 manner on each side, then four priests, then four ministers or 
 statesmen. These figures arc about twelve feet high, their costume 
 Chinese. By their attitude and expression they seem to point with 
 silent homage to the tombs of the great beyond. Kext we pass in 
 review a double row of equally colossal horses, four on each side, 
 two of them resting on their haunches, and two erect ; next ele- 
 
PRANKS OF A MULE. 
 
 200 
 
 |)li;ints erect, and elephants in a sittin<]^ posture ; then canielu 
 gtimding and camels coucliant ; then lions rani])ant and lions 
 asleep ; then buffaloes standing and at rest ; then asses, and at 
 the end rhinoceroses. Here two arches of honor, like those at the 
 other end of tlie avenue, open on uneonsecrated ground. Though 
 the sculpture must have been executed three hundred years ago, it 
 cx'^els much of the statuary found in the public grounds at AVash- 
 ington, and is very etl'ective. Of this we have evidence so strong 
 that we should be afraid to produce it, if there were not a cloud of 
 
 
 S.:l 
 
 
 * 
 
 i 
 
 AVr.NlF. Ti) TIIK Mrsr, TOMDS. 
 
 witnesses to verify it. We give their names — the Admiral, the 
 (.'onsul-Genernl, John Middleton, Esq., Alfred Tiodman, Esq., and 
 AVilliam Ereeman. Here is the evidence : The lean lead mule 
 (»f ]\Ir. ScM'ard's litter is a large, strong, spirited beast. Although 
 lio liad given ])roofs of this many times by stentorian braying, ex- 
 pressive of discontent and obstinacy, yet he made the journey 
 from Peking to Nan-Kow, and through the sacred groves of the 
 ?,Iing tombs, without any especial fractiousness. But he was oiily 
 reserving himself for a display on tli? grand avenue. Even hero 
 
 
210 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 lie made no demonstration at the mapiificcnt marble bridi^o. Ho 
 passed meekly under the double arches of lio'ior. lie turned 
 neither to the ri^ht nor to the left, to pay homages to either colos- 
 sal philosophers, generals, priests, or statesmen. lie even passed 
 the recumbent horses on both sides of him witl.out turning his head 
 or pricking up his cars. I'ut the first great stone horse standing 
 erect, on the left, proved too much for the e(pianimity of the mule. 
 Perceiving that statue at a distance of three or four rods, he broke 
 all of a sudden from his lazy walk into a sharp trot, discarding his 
 driver and dragging the rear mule behind him ; regardless that, 
 in the litter which he bore, was seated the venerated chief of our 
 party, he dashed furiously forward to the granite horse, and, throw- 
 ing his head upward, presented his broad, graceless mouth to tlio 
 more stubborn jaw of the statue. The muleteers, alarmed by this 
 strange performance, cried out with dismay, and the gentlemen 
 liastcned to rescue Mr. Seward from being dashed against the figure. 
 IIaj)pily, at this moment, the muleteers seized the brute by tlic 
 head, in the act of saluting his ancient and unappreciative distant 
 relation, and buffeted him away. lie yielded, but not without a 
 shaking of the ears, and an unearthly complaint from the lungs, 
 which left no one in doubt that the animal thought he was unrea- 
 sonably deprived of a just and rational pleasure. 
 
 Though not yet qualified for comparing the Imperial Cemetery 
 of China with the sepulchral architecture of other countries, we 
 may nevertheless venture to say that the impressive and suggestive 
 avenue of approach, the spaciousness of the grounds, the severe 
 exclusion of all foreign or incongruous objects, the drawling into 
 contrast mountain and plain with ancient groves, and natural 
 rivulets with arched bridges, the magnificence and elegance of the 
 temples, and the simplicity and durability of the memorial tablets, 
 constitute an extraordinary and masterly combination. Wliatever 
 may be the historical merit of the Ming emperors whose ashes are 
 deposited in those tombs, no one can leave the place doubting tliat 
 the honors' they have received here are such as are due to bene- 
 factors of mankind. 
 
 Novemher V 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 LAST DAYS LV I'EKIXO. 
 
 Cham-Pins-Chow. — A Cliincsc Inn. — The Roman Catholics in China. — The Cathedral. — 
 The Tion-Tsin Massacre. — (-'iiristian Policy. — Interview with Robert Hart. — A Letter 
 from Sun-Tajen and Chi-Tajen. — Letter from Prince Kung. — Interview with the 
 Prince. — The Prince's Present. — Departure from Peking. 
 
 Pelting, Novemher Ifi^A. — We passed the night at Cham-Ping- 
 Chow, a town of considerable activity. Cur inn was such a one as 
 wc could procure exchisively without giving previous notice. Our 
 ^'uides say there are some that arc better. We are quite sure there 
 are none which can be worse. But, if avc fare badly in Chinese inns, 
 we have the consolation of knowing that wc fare cheaply. We do 
 not know what were the bills of our coolies for man and beast. 
 They could not have been extravagant, for the entire compensation 
 which we ha o paid to them for the journey to Peking to the 
 wall and back again is only ten dollars for each litter and cart. 
 The expenses of our party of ten at the inn was three Mexican 
 dollars for all, of which seventy-five cents was paid for extra fuel 
 for the kang. The impression made on ns, by the conduct of the 
 people who came under our observation, does not go to confirm the 
 helief that they are either hostile or prejudiced against foreigners, 
 while it does satisfy us that they are punctual and exact in the 
 fulfilment of their contracts. The mercury has fallen to 2G°. 
 
 Novem'ber Vltfi. — By the laws of China, the Boman Catholic 
 religion is tolerated here. That Church has on paper divided the 
 
 1 
 
 fit ' ' ^ 
 
212 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 empire into bishopries and vicarates. It counts eight bishoprics o 
 more, sixty foreign priests, one hundred and twenty native priests, 
 and four hundred thousand native converts. 
 
 We visited, to-day, the Cathedral at Peking. It is a line, large, 
 stone edifice, with an adjoining nunnery. The sisters are Freucli 
 and Irish. There is a large number of native servants. It seems 
 quite apparent that converts are obtained as last as the missionaries 
 are able to furnish them employment an.d support, which is an 
 indispensable condition. Native jealousy feeds on a tradition that 
 the spacious grounds occupied by those institutions were obtained 
 without equivalent. Nor djes the same jealousy fail to take notice 
 that the Church arrogates a right denied even to foreign embassies, 
 of using the imperial yellow color in the ornamentation of its 
 portals and walls. Sister Louise, lamented as the noblest and best 
 beloved of the martyrs at Tien-Tsin, had arrived there just before 
 the massacre. The sisters gave us relics of her. What shall we 
 say concerning that terrible transaction ? 
 
 It is right, just, and wise, that all the Christian nations shall 
 mourn together over the victims, sympathize with the survivors, 
 and unite in demanding such satisiaction from the Chinese Govern- 
 ment as would allbrd security against a recurrence of persecution. 
 But tliis has been already done as fully, it seems to us, as is possible. 
 Tlie Chinese Government has beheaded eighteen of the murderers, 
 has provided for repairing and restoring the demolished buildiiiiis, 
 and paid an indenniity of six hundred thousand taels for distribu- 
 tion to the families of the victims. It has, moreover sent one of tlie 
 most eminent statesmen of China, who is fully conversant with tlie 
 details of the tragedy, to make sirch further explanations and give 
 such further guarantees as the French Government may reasonably 
 deinand. The French minister here, under high excitement and 
 witli threats of war, demanded, besides those concessions, the heads 
 of the two chief mandarins who were in authority at the time tlie 
 massacre occurred. The Chinese Government brought those maii- 
 darins to trial. The charge of eomiilicitv Avas not sustaineil. 
 Nevertheless the Government banished them for life, as a punish- 
 ment for tlitir imbecility. 
 
THE TIEN-TSIN MASSACRE. 
 
 213 
 
 We know that here, as well as throughout Europe and the 
 United States, it is alleged that these proccediugs of the Chiueso 
 Government are fraudulent and evasive ; but we fail to find evi- 
 dence of fraud, nor can we divine a motive for it. It is not to bo 
 furgotten that persecution of Christian missionaries, and especially 
 persecution of lloman Catholic is not exclusively confined to the 
 Chinese. The Roman Catholic Church, with its high ecclesiastical 
 pretensions, its mouastical institutions, and its denial of tlie right 
 of judgment by individual conscience, has come into conflict not 
 only with the pagan systems of Asia, but witli the eidightened 
 civilization of the age. Here, as in Euroi)e and the United States, 
 it has fallen, liowever undeservedly, under pojndar suspicion in 
 two forms : first, a suspicion of political usurpation, that is to say, 
 of an attempt to establish imj)e}''k(m in inq^rw ; second, the sus- 
 picion of impurity of morals in celibate life. 
 
 In wliich of the Western nations has the conflict between that 
 Cluu'ch and those who dissent from it been carried on without 
 occasional riot, massacre, and martyrdom — not to speak of the 
 religious wars which att-jnded the Protestant Ileformation ? In 
 what Western nation did a government ever otter more etlective 
 or liberal reparation than that which the (Jhinesc Government has 
 given in this case? It is not to be expected that the Protestant 
 countries in the AYest, which have suppressed monastic institutions, 
 and sc(piestered ecclesiastical estates, will symjmthize with demands 
 of France that shall go beyond a guarantee of rights and privileges 
 for all Christians in China. Missionaries of all sects ouglit to re- 
 member that, where the Gospel comes, there "it must needs be that 
 oll'oncos come," nor should they forget that the command, "(^o ye, 
 therefore, and teach all nations," was accompanied by the warning 
 injunction, not less sublime than the command itself, " Behold, I 
 send you forth as slieep in the midst ot wolves ; be yc therefore 
 wise as serpents and harmless as doves." 
 
 iVoirmher IS^A. — One of the most important incidents of our 
 sojourn hero was reserved for this morning. This was an interview 
 with Mr. Ivobert Hart. Can any thing be more capricious than 
 
 15 
 
 I; 
 
 "\ 
 
 
 C *j 
 
214 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 international politics? The British and French allies, after havino- 
 pressed the empire to the verge, found it necessary all of a sudden 
 to strike hands with the Government in its war with the rebels, in 
 order to prevent a complete dissolution of society. With their aid, 
 the Government effectually suppressed the rebellion. Then canio 
 the question of reimbursements and indemnities to be paid to the 
 allies. The revenue system of China had become corrupt and 
 effete. The Imperial Government could guarantee nothing. In 
 this difficult conjuncture, a happy expedient was hit upon. The 
 Government, with assurances of protection by Great Britain and 
 France, consented to reorganize its customs revenue upon a Em-o- 
 pean basis, and confide it to the management of a European skilled 
 in finance, who, with a staff of his appointment, half Chinese and 
 half European, should fix a uniform rate of duties on foreign im- 
 ports, collect them, pay the stipulated indemnities to the allies, and 
 the surplus into the imperial treasury. That functionary, under the 
 official title of inspector-general, is Mr. Itobert Hart. While the 
 internal revenue system of China remains in a distracted and dilaj)- 
 idated state, he has brought the customs department into a flourish- 
 ing condition. He returned only to-day from a journey of inspec- 
 tion of the open ports in distant parts of the empire. We found 
 him a far-seeing and able statesman, having in finance, at least, 
 something of the scope and capacity of Alexander Hamilton. Jhit 
 we reserve further remark on this system until we shall have 
 studied its workings in the central and southern ports of the 
 empire. 
 
 A letter from our old friends Chi-Tnjen and Sun-Tajen. If 
 there is a discrepancy between their names as known to us and 
 their autograph cards, it will be understood that the word " Tajen," 
 which is affixed to their names, is a designation of rank, and not a 
 proper name. Mr. Seward is here addressed, not by that name, but 
 as Sew-Tajen. 
 
 " To William 1 1. Si: ward — 
 
 " SiK : We arrived in Peking yesterday, from Tion-Tsin, and 
 had earnestly desired to hasten to you, in order to express to you 
 
 our great pleas 
 cecdingly bois 
 are altogether 
 to submit a no 
 ourselves befor 
 and procure a i 
 must be done 
 court usage to 
 ceremony, evei 
 could hardly d( 
 
 " We sincer 
 for r^' your g 
 troublesome to 
 where they wil 
 
 " We wish 1 
 
 November 1 
 the legation ; 
 residing iu Pc 
 sedan-chaii - an 
 ing a letter was 
 
 " To William 
 
 " Sir : I Inn 
 
 from your tri]> 
 
 foreign office, a 
 
 the United Stnt 
 
 " I hope thi 
 
 " I bog to u 
 
 Autograph 
 
 " Pri> 
 
 " YlIN 
 
 " Was 
 
LETTER FROM PRINCE KUNG. 
 
 215 
 
 our great pleasure. But the trip up from Shanghai has been ex- 
 ceedingly boisterous, making us very sick and giddy, so that we 
 are altogether exhausted. Furthermore, we have not yet been able 
 to submit a note requesting that we may be permitted to prostrate 
 ourselves before the throne, and inquire for his Majesty's health, 
 and procure a short leave of absence from the foreign office, which 
 must be done through Prince Kung It would be contrary to 
 court usage to make a visit to you before having complied with that 
 ceremony, even if we were not so completely prostrated that we 
 could hardly do so, in a proper manner. 
 
 " We sincerely wish to repair to your residence to thank you 
 for p^' your generous and loving acts, which were so great and 
 troublesome to you. But they are indelibly graven on our hearts, 
 where they will remain forever. And how can we forget them ? 
 
 " We wish that your happiness may never cease. 
 
 (Cards) 
 
 " Cnin-KAXG, 
 "SuN-CuiA-Kun." 
 
 Rovemher \Wi. — On the 17th, international dinner and ball at 
 the legation ; on the IStli, received visits from the foreign ladies 
 residing in Peking, and, our time here growing short, we took 
 sedan-chaii - and returned the visits on the same day. This even- 
 ing a letter was received from Prince Kung. 
 
 " To William II. Sewakd, etc. 
 
 '• Sir: I have just heard that you and your party have returned 
 from your trip to the country, and I have, with the officers of the 
 foreign office, arranged to visit you to-morrow, at one o'clock, at 
 the United States legation. 
 
 " I hope this hour av'^I be agreeable to you all. 
 
 " I beg to wish you daily peace." 
 
 Autograph cards enclosed : 
 
 " Prince Kung, 
 " yuno-suin, 
 *' Was-Ciiang-iii, 
 
 " Pasyun, 
 
 " ClIIN-KlOSIFAW, 
 
 (ll 
 
 'Ysu 
 
 JNO-LUN 
 
 <J 
 
 
 
 tfj 
 
216 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 November Wth. — At one o'clock, Prince Knng, with the minis- 
 ters of the foreign office, came, having previonsly sent in their 
 cards according to the book of rites. They came in chairs, and 
 were received by the band at the entrance of the court, with a 
 Chinese national air which they had learned for the occasion. The 
 music, although by no means inspiring to us, seemed to please 
 them. Mrs. Low, having iirst provided a table, half American, half 
 Chinese, retired with the other ladies to an inner room, where they 
 could observe, unobserved. The prince is the brother of the last 
 emperor, and uncle of the present emperor, who is yet in liis 
 minority. The government of the empire is in the hands of the 
 regency, consisting of the young emperor's mother and aunt, and 
 Prince Kung. The two ladies take charge of the boy's person and 
 education, while the prince exercises the sovereign political author- 
 ity. All edicts, however, run in the name of the emperor, witliout 
 any notice of the regency except the form of attestation. The 
 female regents maintain strictly the reserve required of their sex, 
 being never seen even by any minister of the government. AVhcn 
 a decree is to be made. Prince Ivung proceeds with the draught to 
 the palace, and announce liis presence before a curtain. The 
 ladies then come behind the curtain, and receive and read the 
 decree. They impress it with their seals. A eunuch delivers it 
 to the prince, who, affixing his own seal, hands it to the "state- 
 printer" in a;; . liter chamber. Before he reaches his department, 
 the deciee is published and in circulation. 
 
 The prince is tall and well-made, but docs not impress one as 
 especially intellectual. I lis manner is self-possessed and brus(]iio, 
 and he seems, even when practising the highest courtesy, like a 
 person \vho is not accustomed to contradiction or dissent, lie 
 saluted Mr. Seward first in the Tartar fashion, by 'akiug that 
 gentleman's arms and hands into his own, with a friendly embrace. 
 Our learned countryman. Dr. Martin, who acted as interpreter, 
 mentioned to Mr. Seward that this treatment was in striking con- 
 trast with the customary Chinese "touch-me-not" form of salutation 
 of foreigners. The prince then earnestly expressed his satisfaction 
 in the accomplishment of a wish he had long entertained, to see the 
 
CONVERSATION WITH PRINCE KUNG. 
 
 217 
 
 face of his distinguished visitor. Mr. Seward requested him to sit, 
 but he immediately rose, and apologized for his failure in keeping 
 his previous appointment at the foreign office. He said that lie 
 had been, on that occasion, seized with a sudden illness, which had 
 entirely disabled him from business for many days. 
 
 Mr. Seward : " The anxiety I felt about you is happily relieved 
 by seeing and knowing that you are well again." 
 
 Prince Kuno : " My acquaintance with your Excellency began 
 with our embassy to the United States and Europe, and I have 
 many acknowledgments to make for the kindness and assistance 
 our ministers received at your hands." 
 
 Mr. Seward : " Not at all, your Highness. Our Government 
 welcomed that embassy as a harbinger of closer and more friendly 
 relations between the United States and China." 
 
 Prince Kung : " The relations of the two countries have always 
 been amicable. I trust they will become still more intimate in 
 future. As to our ministers on that occasion, their instructions 
 were, to put themselves very much under the directions of your 
 Excellency." 
 
 Mr. Seward : " On the arrival of the embassy, I conferred with 
 tlicm concerning the objects of their mission and their powers. 1 
 then prepared a draught of a treaty, which they amended. When 
 the drauglit, as amended, had been approved by the President, I 
 submitted it by telegraph to Great Britain, France, and Germany. 
 AVlien those nations had signified that such a treaty would be ac- 
 ceptable to them, it was then signed by your ambassadors and by 
 myself. This is the story of the ' P)urlingame Treaty.' " 
 
 Prince Kung made a profound bow, and exclaimed : 
 
 " What a pity that Mr. Burlingamo was cut off by so untimely 
 a fate, leaving his work unfinished ! " 
 
 Mr. Seward : " Mr. P)urlingame"'s Avork was so far accomplished 
 that he exerted an influence w^hich will never cease to be felt in the 
 mutual intercourse of China and the Western nations. The termi- 
 nation at any time of a life which had already bccomo so successful 
 and so useful, cannot be called premature." 
 
 Prince Kung : " Ah ! if others would adopt the principles 
 
 ii 
 
 
 *i- 
 
 ■n 
 % 
 
 
 '1 
 
218 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 which are practised by your Government, it would be a great ;id- 
 vantas'e to us." 
 
 Here, at Mr. Low's invitation, the party took seats at the table — 
 the prince at the left, with Mr. Seward next his Highness ; Ysuno-. 
 Lun, senior Minister of the Board of Foreign Affairs, on his right; 
 next to him. Admiral Rodgers. Is ot much attention, however, was 
 paid to the elegant repast. The conversation was immediately I'e- 
 sumed, and continued an hour : 
 
 Pkince Kung : " How many are your venerable years ? " 
 
 Mr. Seward : " Sixty-nine. May I ask your Highness's age 2 " 
 
 Prince Kung : " Thirty-live. Arc you now in the exercise of 
 public functions ? or have you laid down the cares of office, while 
 you continue to wear its honors?" 
 
 Mr. Seward : " I was in active public life thirty years. I have 
 now given up official duties, and am studying in the way of foreign 
 travel — " 
 
 The prince did nc'- wait for the end of Mr. Seward's remark, 
 but. misapprehending ^lis gesticulations, said : 
 
 " I know, without an interpreter, what you are speaking about. 
 It is your painful experience in your conflict with the Southern re- 
 bellion." 
 
 At Mr. Seward's request, the interpreter told the prince that his 
 guess was wide of the mark, and then gave Mr. Seward's answer. 
 
 " NQvertholess," said the prince, "I desire to hear from you 
 about the rebellion, and especially about vour escape from assassi- 
 nation, and about the honorable wounds you have received, the 
 marks of which you still wear." 
 
 Mr. Seward, after a few words to satisfy the prince's curiosity 
 on that subject, brought the question back to Chinese politics : 
 
 Mr. Seward : " Your Highness, is it the intention of your 
 Government to establish permanent missions in foreign capitals?" 
 
 Prince Kung : " By all means. We expect to have perma- 
 nent embassies, and we expect to derive great benefit from them." 
 
 Mr. Seward : " The Japanese Government gave me a letter, 
 which they addressed to the minister whom they have recently sent 
 to China. I would like to deliver it." 
 
CONVERSATION WITH PRINCE RUNG. 
 
 219 
 
 Prince Kuno : " He has not yet coine." 
 
 Mu. Seward : " Is the Ananiite Empire still tributary to China ? " 
 
 Prince Kung : " It still continues to send tribute." 
 
 Mr. Seward : " And does Siani, also ? " 
 
 Prince Kung : " The Siamese Government sends us tribute 
 once in five years." 
 
 Mr. Seward : " What is the diplomatic rank of envoys who 
 coine to you from Corea ? " 
 
 Prince Kung : " That question is not easily answered. The 
 Coreano have gvades of rank, and honors, altogether difiereut from 
 our own." 
 
 Mr. Seward : " Are the tributes which you receive from those 
 countries merely ceremonial, or do they enter into the revenues of 
 the empire ? " 
 
 Prince Kung : "We act on the maxim that the envoys of de- 
 pendent states shall come to us lean, and go out from us i'at. They 
 always receive greater presents than they bring." 
 
 Mr. Seward : " The King of Siam once sent us a present in 
 regard to which we could not act on that maxim. It was a white 
 elephant." 
 
 The prince took out his wMtch to compare his time with that of 
 the legation, and explained that there is no standard chronometer 
 in Peking. 
 
 Admiral Eodgers inquired whether the instruments at the 
 observatory are no longer serviceable. 
 
 Prince Kung : " Observations are still made there, but the 
 instruments are somewhat neglected, and they have become obso- 
 
 lete." 
 
 Mr. Seward : " It seems so desirable that the sciences of the 
 "West should be introduced into China that I regret ^'- learn of the 
 difficulties which the university projected by Wan-Siang encoun- 
 ters. I trust that that institution will revive under its new presi- 
 dent, Dr. Martin." 
 
 Prince Kung : " It was with that nope that we appointed liim, 
 and we have now the utmost confidence in its success. It is bound 
 to succeed." 
 
 If" 
 
 i 
 
 8; 
 t 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
220 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 Dr. Martin, in Mr. Seward's name, asked the prince and Lis 
 associates to write their names in the ladies' albums. 
 
 The prince took up the book, and, seeming to assume that it 
 was Mr. Seward's own, wrote these words : 
 
 " Having already attained so much of wealth and honor, may you also 
 attain to great longevity ! " 
 
 lie signed this in the Mantchoo character — " Kukg-Ciiiex- 
 Wang." 
 
 The aged Minister Chin-Lun, president of the Board of Con- 
 trol for the Colonies, wrote : 
 
 ** May mankind enjoy nniversal peace ! " 
 
 He signed this both in the Chinese and Mantchoo characters, 
 Tung-Tajen, president of the Board of Revenue, before ic- 
 
 ferred to in these notes as a poet, wrote, in ancient ornamental 
 
 characters : 
 
 "May mild winds and qnict waves, 
 Tranquil seas and pleasant rivers, 
 Speed you on your voyage." 
 
 Shcn-Tajen, member of the Grand Council of State, next took 
 up the pencil, and wrote : 
 
 ">May the clouds give you lucky omens. 
 The stars assure you 'lappiness and long life. 
 The opening flowers presage wealth and honors, 
 And the bamboo tube [the mail-bag] only 
 And always bring you tidings of peace!" 
 
 Repeating and rehearsing these several kindly sentimenft, they 
 rose, took the hands of Mr. Seward and the admiral into their own, 
 bade them farewell, and retired. 
 
 Novcmher Vist. — General Ylangally again entertained us Avith a 
 breakfast at his pleasant legation. 
 
PRESENTS from: TITE MINISTERS OF STATE. 
 
 221 
 
 This morning four mandarin chairs and six carts, with an un- 
 usual retinue of coolies, appeared at the legation. A messenger 
 delivered to Mr. Seward the cards of the several Ministers of State, 
 including one of "Wan-Siang, together with a present, of which they 
 left the following inventory : 
 
 One pair of vases. 
 
 One pair of enamelled eagles. 
 
 One pair of double-enamelled vases. 
 
 One pair of carved scarlet lacquer boxes. 
 
 One pair of enamelled fish-jars. 
 
 Eight pieces of silk, of various colors. 
 
 Mr. Seward inquired of Mr. Low what would be a proper form 
 of acknowledgment. lie replied : '• You cannot decline the present. 
 You can only send your card in return, and pay a Mexican dollar 
 to each coolie. Less than this you would be unwilling to do. It 
 would be thought disrespectful to do more." 
 
 The American and British missionaries, residing at Peking, 
 parsed the afternoon with Mr. Seward. They leave on the minds 
 of our whole party an impression that they are earnest, true, and 
 good men and women. The labor which they are performing in 
 this benighted land fully justifies the Christian charity which has 
 sent them hither. 
 
 Ever since we came here, Mr. Seward and Admiral Hodgcrs 
 have been diligently laboring to ascertain the feasibility of a return 
 of our party by way of the Imperial Canal. The Government has 
 caused a report to be made to them on that subject. This paper 
 describes many breaches of the canal, but represents them as under- 
 going repair. The Government would provide for our security in 
 the journey, but no shorter period than three weeks would suffice 
 to make it in boats, while there would be many and long land port- 
 ages. It is almost certain that, within that time, it will be rendered 
 impassable by ice. The canal-voyage is therefore given up, though 
 not without much reluctance. 
 
 
CIIAPTEE XI. 
 
 THE RETURN TO SHANGHAI. 
 
 Once more on the Pei-ho. — The Ladies at Ticn-Tsin. — Tlic Shan Tung. — Pigeon Englisli. 
 — Tempestuous Weather. — Visit to the Flag-ship Colorado. — Departure of Mr. ami 
 Mrs. Randall. — On board the Plymouth Rock. 
 
 Tung-C1iO\L\ Noveiniber 226Z. — How could we describe in writing,' 
 the parting at tlie legation, which allowed of no ntterance ! 
 
 Time, it seems, is not money in junk-navigation. We find at 
 Tung-Chow that our flotilla of little vessels, without a word of 
 engagement or promise on our part, had waited nineteen days. It 
 has been speedily manned and victualled. Its sails are already 
 spread, our flags are unfurled, and we are once more afloat on the 
 Pei-ho. The weather is very cold, but the downward voyage to 
 Ticn-Tsin requires only forty hours. 
 
 Tien-Tsln, Noveniber 2S(L — Could anybody ask a safer convoy 
 on a river-voyage than a rear admiral ? Could anybody, needing 
 protection on such a voyage, do a wiser thing than trust such a 
 convoy ? 
 
 " All's well that ends well ; " but, could there be a better joke 
 than that which has occurred to us, under the practice of these prin- 
 ciples ? Boat ^o. 2, bearing the two ladies, accidentally separatiu;;,' 
 from the fleet during the night, came up to the draw-bridge at 
 Tien-Tsin this morning, not only two hours before No. 4 and the 
 other boats, but even three hours before the flag-ship of our gallant 
 
"PIGEON-ENGLISII." 
 
 228 
 
 convoy. There is not only a time for every thing in this world, 
 but there is also a place for it ; but, for those timid adventurers, 
 those two hours were not the tinie^ and Tien-Tsin, with its murky 
 atmosphere, stolid crowds, and horrible associations of massacre, 
 was certainly not the place. Fortunately, the officers of the Ashue- 
 lot found them, oj^ened the way through the draw-bridge, took them 
 on board their ship, and seated them, shivering as thoy were, before 
 a fire in their comfortable cabin. 
 
 The deck is completely enclosed with bunting — the flags of all 
 nations — and is prepared for a ball in honor of our arrival. The 
 same considerations, which counselled us to self-denial on our up- 
 ;vard way, determined us to forego the pleasing compliment. 
 
 Thanks to Mr. Beebe, of the house of Russell & Company, for 
 the welcome and comfortable quarters, Avhich we so much needed, 
 after the cold river-voyage. Thanks for his pleasant dinner, and 
 tlianks to Mr. Seward and good Admiral Rodgcrs for lowering their 
 voices after the ladies had left the table, and to the whole party for 
 treading so lightly as they retired for the night. Thanks, more 
 fervent than all others, to the hicky star which has brought our 
 nice, little, rolling Shan Tung, and her spirited Yankee Captain 
 ILiwes, back from Shanghai, just in time to meet us here and con- 
 vey us to that destination. Our last voyage on the Yellow Sea, and 
 her last voyage for the season. 
 
 If ^ '% 
 
 Tahn, November 24:th. — On board the Shan Tung, waiting to 
 pross the bar. Would anybody care to have an explanation of 
 wliat is called '■ pigeon-English ? " To the visitor, on his arrival 
 here, it seems an unnecessary and puerile affectation. But this is a 
 mistake. !N^ative agents, servants, and factors, must be employed. 
 They do not understand any foreign language, and foreign residents 
 cannot learn Chinese. A dialect is needed for mutual communica- 
 tion, but it may be limited to the vants of commerce and service. 
 
 As "charity shall cover a multitude of sins," so in this dialect, 
 one English word is made to cover a variety of things. " Pigeon," 
 to the Chinese ear, means, not the dove, but " business." " Pigeon- 
 English," therefore, means " business-Engli:)h." A few generic 
 
 mi '■* 
 
224 
 
 JAPAN, CIIiyA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 names, without number, gender, or case, and a very few active and 
 auxiliary verbs, witiiout variation of mood or tense, eon.stitute tlic 
 whole vocabulary. " AVill this horse kick T' In |)i,ii:con-Eniijli>Ii^ 
 " Horse make kick 'i " " Ask the consul to come here." In i)i<jc()ii- 
 Entflish it is, " Catchec consul, bring come this side." Report, in 
 pigeon-English, "No can catchee consul." " Bring the breakfast, 
 quickly," — " Catchec chow-chow, chop-chop." 
 
 A similar invention, though not so well perfected, is adapted to 
 facilitate intercourse between foreigners and natives in all newly, 
 discovered regions. The Indian tribes, on the North-American 
 Pacific coast, have a common jargon made up of only two hundred 
 words, a mixture of English, French, Spanish, Indian, etc. The 
 lingua franca of the Mediterranean, a jumble of French, Arabic, 
 Turkish, and Italian, is another such dialect. "Pigeon-English" is 
 now regularly taught in Chinese schools. Since it is capable of in- 
 definite expansion, who shall say that, in the progress of time, a 
 complete language may not be built upon that narrow foundation { 
 
 Yelloio Sea, of Shan Tnng Promontory, November 2Sth. — The 
 Gulf Pe-chce-lee is a vixen, and the Shan Tung, in a gale, is a nui- 
 sance. Although the morning was soft and genial when we left 
 Taku, the sky darkened at ten, and in two hours we were rollinc; 
 and pitching under a severe nor'easter. Unable to land at Che- 
 Foo, we anchored for the night at Hope Sound. Resuming our 
 voyage, we arrived, at six the next morning, in the harbor of Clic- 
 Foo. But a high sea would not allow us to disembark. Tlie 
 weather has been intensely cold as well as tempestuous for two 
 days and nights, and there has been no rest or comfort. At two 
 o'clock yesterday afternoon, finding a smooth nook on the Ico 
 shore, we came to anchor again, to afl'ord, not passengers, but tlic 
 exhausted seamen, a night of rest. The storm has abated, and wc 
 are now making rapid headway. 
 
 SJiangJiai, Noveniber 30t/i. — Why take pains to say what every- 
 body may imagine — that we have come back to Shanghai weary, 
 or that Mr. and Mrs. Warden seem even kinder than before, or that 
 
VISIT TO THE COLORADO. 
 
 225 
 
 William Freeman has laid in a stock of '' pii^eon-Enf^lish " which 
 he thinks will enable lis to dismiss our C^hincso servants, or that 
 Admiral llod,ii^ers has determined that the Colorado shall no longer 
 be denied the pleasiii-e of entertaining ns, or that ^Ir, Seward has 
 paeitied impatient friends and countrymen by contradicting rumors 
 which came before us — that the Chinese (Jov(>rnment has oi-ganized 
 an army for immediate Avar, and that Prince Kung refused to re- 
 ceive or meet Mr. Seward in any way ? 
 
 Dccemher hth. — Yesterday, Mr. Seward, attended by many 
 friends, visited the admiral's flag-ship. Arriving in the harbor 
 of Woo-Sung, we proposed to go directly from our little yacht 
 on board the Colorado. No such hasty proceeding as this, how- 
 ever, could be allowed. The whole ship made gorgeous display 
 of national colors. The etaft-offlcers, in brilliant uniforms, Avero 
 afloat in her steam-launch, and other boats awaiting us. Seamen 
 and marines were ranged on the deck. Six hundred otBcers and 
 men, in regulation attire, were drawn up in line. Our now 
 familiar acquaintances, tlto band, with their brass instruments 
 blazing in the burning sun, stood on the quarter-deck ; and in 
 front of them all was the admiral, tall, erect, and commanding, 
 lie waved us a cordial and graceful welcome. The staff camo 
 alongside, and informed us of the admiral's request that Mr. Sew- 
 ard would remain on the yacht until the party should have been 
 conveyed by the launches to the Colorado. 
 
 And so it was done. When the party had been assigned proper 
 places, Mr. Seward, coming over the bulwarks, was received by the 
 admiral ; the marines presented arms, the seamen saluted, the guns 
 poured forth a salvo, and the band played " Hail to the Chief! " 
 
 The officers Avcro then severally presented to Mr. Seward. Then 
 followed an inspection of the ship, which displayed the usual good 
 order of an American man-of-war. A feast was spread in the 
 cabins, to Avhich wo all sat doAvn. The band continued playing 
 until the last guest retired from the table. 
 
 In taste for articles of virUi, the admiral rivals his professional 
 confrere, the Duke of Edinburgh. Here avo note, by w-ay of 
 
 s 
 
 »' 
 ft. 
 
 A 
 
 
226 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 parenthesis, in China, whicli is the country of porcehain, that his 
 Wedgwood ware is the finest in the world. 
 
 A voyage under the soft moonlight brought us to the compound 
 at two o'clock. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Randall, greatly to our regret, being recalled 
 home, we part with them here.' 
 
 Shangh ', Deeetnber 1th. — ^We are preparing for an excursion 
 on the Yanff-tse-kianar. The admiral and ofiicors took final leave of 
 us to-day. After a pleasant dinner with Mr. and Mrs, Fraser, we 
 repaired, at eleven o'clock, on board the steamer Plymouth Iloek. 
 
 On hoard ilie Plymouth Each, December Sth. — After all, there 
 is somethins: in a name. Ph mouth Rock, a name identified with 
 the civiliz;.tion of America, now employed to signalize an American 
 regenci'ation of China ! 
 
 Laboulaye has written an ingenious book describing Paris in 
 America. AViiy shall we not, in ours, illustrate the United States 
 in Cliina ? The Plymouth Rock was built in our own country, and 
 is owned, managed, and sailed, by our countrymen. Such a prom- 
 enade-deck can be found on the great rivers and lakes at home ; 
 but sue', a cabin, such a table, such baths, and such beds, can be 
 found nowiicre. Te knew, when wo looked about this morninir, 
 that no Chinese steward, nor maid-servant, if there be any such, 
 nor any American or European steward or stewardess, had ar- 
 ranged these homelike comforts. Though we saw no woman, wc 
 knew, not only that a woman had been here, but that she lives here. 
 The captain's wife, Mrs. Simmons, is absent for only a day or two. 
 
 The Hudson and the Mississippi are the only rivers in the world 
 where steamers carry as heavy freights as on the Yang-tsekianj^. 
 If the monopoly of this navigation by our countrymen serves to ex- 
 tend our national influence in China, it at the same time illustrates 
 the absurdity of thctfcar that the Chinese interest will become an 
 intrusive or dangerous element in the United States. 
 
 ' Aiiliuni, JhJij 20, 1872. — We record with deep sorrow the death of Mr. Randall. 
 lie closed a life of' eniincnt public service nnd piivatc virtue, at liis lesidcucc iu Elinira, 
 yesterday, after his return to that place from a visit to Mr. Seward, here. 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 UP THE YANG-TSE-KIANG. 
 
 The Mississippi of China.— Ching-Kiang. — Large Frciglits. — Nanliing. — Tlie Porcelain 
 Tower. — A Specimen Briclt. — Abundance of Game. — Scenery on tlie River. — Ku- 
 Kiaug. — Conversation witli Mr. Drew. — Policy of the United States. — Ilan-Kow. — 
 Ascent of the Promontory. — Magnificent View. — Cheerful Aspect of Uau-Kow. — 
 Excursion to Wco-Cliang. — A Disagreeable Adventure. 
 
 Decernbev ^th. — The Yan<;-tse-kiang has its sources in the moun- 
 tains of Thibet, side by side with those of rivers wliich flow tlirougli 
 8iam, Ikirmah, and Ilindostan, into tlie Bay of Bengal. In reach- 
 iiii; the Pacitic, it traverses the central region of China, a distance 
 of nineteen hundred miles, which the sinuosities of its course 
 lengthen to three thousand miles. Though this navigation may 
 not bo longer than that of the Mississippi River, extended by the 
 Missouri River, the Yang-tse-kiang greatly surpasses the great 
 American river in depth, breadth, and volume. Often, in its 
 course, it spreads into broad bays or lakes, and, losing its own 
 niune, takes on local ones, just as the mighty St. Lawrence does. 
 
 In a distance of eighty miles from the sea, the river gradually 
 shrinks from a breadth of some thirty miles t.) that of one mile — 
 the banks level, densely inhabited, and perfectly cultivated. • 
 
 At midnight we fastened at the wharf of Ching-Kiang, the 
 fiouthern terminus of the Imperial Canal. This popidous and 
 iini)ortant town was nearly destroyed during the Ta-ping rebel- 
 lion. The merctiry had gone down to twenty-eight degrees. A 
 heavy dew was fallin.g. It was no time to go ashore. Our captain 
 
 I 
 
228 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 left on the wharf three thousand boxes and bales of merchandise 
 consisting of sugars from Southern China, and British manufac- 
 tured goods and opium from India — a large freight, consideriii(» 
 that the steamer is one of a daily line, and that the river is at 
 every point crowded with junks. It looks quite like home to see 
 the numerous and immense timber-rafts floating down from native 
 forests in Thibet. 
 
 What product does China need to make herself self-sustaining ? 
 
 The banks above Ching-Kiang rise to a height of one thousand 
 feet. Nanking, on the south side of the river, is in an amphitheatre 
 formed by those hills. This city has historical interest as the capital 
 
 PBIDOE AT NANKING, AMD POBCKLAIN TOWEB REFORR ITS DESTnUOTION, 
 
 of the empire before the conquest of Kublai-Khan ; afterward it 
 was occasionally the residence of the Ming emperors. Nanking 
 became famous, still later, as a commercial centre, and rcniMiiied so 
 
 until the period 
 orable as the va 
 carried the civil 
 the Porcelain Tc 
 iiig emerald, an 
 looked upon Nai 
 bellishment of t 
 workl. But all 
 lion, which endei 
 
 It seems aim 
 feci for civil wa 
 invariably })rodui 
 dated wall, is litt 
 (inly recognized 
 commerce, but tl 
 land passengers. 
 a large brick whi 
 Seward, thankinf] 
 
 " One of the 
 who, having a ho 
 as a sample ; bu 
 tliankful for a re 
 
 Game is one 
 over your head 
 a dozen ji'ieasan 
 (if fowls in Was 
 son, or hare, thai 
 luals affect the 
 here due to the 
 
 sc 
 
 Dcceml)cr \{H 
 the river flows s\ 
 lains, one called 
 this strait the ri 
 blufl's like those 
 higher, another _< 
 
 16 
 
CITY OF NANKING. 
 
 229 
 
 until tbo period of steam-navigation. Last of all, it became mem- 
 orable as the vantage-ground from which the Ta-ping insurgents 
 carried the civil war to the walls of Pelving. The pagoda called 
 the Porcelain Tower, which, with its nine successive roofs of seem- 
 ing emerald, and the golden apple on its summit, at that time 
 looked upon Nanking, was justly admired, not only as a chief em- 
 bellishment of the great city, but as one of the wonders of the 
 world. But all this glory has passed away. The Ta-ping rebel- 
 lion, which ended only in 18G4-, proved destructive to Nanking. 
 
 It seems almost enough to excuse the dread which all nations 
 fed for civil war, when we contemplate the devastation which it 
 invariably produces. Nanking, within its fifteen miles of dilapi- 
 dated wall, is little else than a desolation. The Porcelain Tower is 
 only recognized by its dtlris. The port is not open to foreign 
 commerce, but the Government permits steamers to receive and 
 land passengers. A friend who came on board ])resented us with 
 a large brick which he has taken from the ruined pagoda. Mr. 
 Seward, thanking him for it, said : 
 
 " One of the minor Greek poets ridicules as a simpleton a man 
 who, having a house to sell, went about showing one of its bricks 
 a? a sample ; but, insomuch as the Porcelain Tower is gone, I am 
 thankful for a relic of it." 
 
 Game is one of the marvels of the country. On the river it is 
 over your head and under your feet — everywhere. You may buy 
 a dozen p^ioasants, ducks, or snipe, for less thaji the price of a ])air 
 (if fowls in Washington Market. You pay less for wild-boar, veni- 
 son, or hare, than for veal or nmtton at home. Do these wild ani- 
 mals affect the society of semi-barbarian man, or is the abundance 
 here due to the great productiveness of the soil i 
 
 Dccemler lOt/i. — Two hundred and fifty miles above Nanking, 
 the river flows swiftly through a narrow gorge between two moun- 
 tains, one called the Eastern, the other the AVcstern ]*illar. Above 
 this strait the river winds, and is flanked on the right bank by 
 liliifls like those of the Mississippi atul IMissouri ; a hundred miles 
 hi<fhor, another gorge; near the left bank, a conical islet, four hun- 
 
 16* 
 
 
(Ired feet liigh, : 
 the to]), the side 
 Buddhist cloister 
 is named, in the 
 little town of T 
 undulating moui 
 
 the Po-yang, a 1; 
 which, in some s 
 lifty nules by tlu 
 Four hundrc( 
 a mile. The ha 
 depth, at this ser 
 
LITTLE ORPHAN ISLAND. 
 
 231 
 
 (Ired feet liigli, rocky at the base, but smiling with vegetation at 
 the top, the sides indented with winding terraces bordered with 
 Buddhist cloisters, on the summit a picturesque pagoda. The rock 
 is named, in the chart, ''Little Orphan." Opposite it is the pretty 
 little town of Tung-Lu, with a picturesque wall winding over the 
 undulating mountain-crest. Here the river receives the water of 
 
 
 1 
 
 LnTLB OEPnAN ISLAND. 
 
 the Po-yang, a lake with a "ircuit of one hundred and eighty miles, 
 which, in some seasons, is enlarged to an area of two hundred and 
 iifty miles by the overflow of the river. 
 
 Four hundred miles from the sea, the river luis narrowed to half 
 a mile. The banks on either side are crowded with villages; the 
 depth, at this season of low water, twenty-five feet ; swollen by the 
 
 i '1 
 
232 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA, 
 
 winter floods, it is sixty. Farther upward, villages are less con- 
 spicuous; but temples and pagodas, at picturesque points, broak 
 the monotony. One of these pagodas is a hundred feet high ; all 
 are dedicated to the gods of the Winds and the Waves. 
 
 At sunset we ca,me to Ku-Kiang, a port open to commerce, on 
 the south side of the river. The foreign settlement, though suiall, 
 is well arranged and conducted ; the Chinese city is contracted 
 and meanly built, but busy. Mr. Rose, of the house of Russell 
 & Co., and Mr. Drew, deputy Chinese revenue commissioner 
 received us. 
 
 Each of the treaty powers nominates to the Chinese Govcm- 
 ment a certain number of persons to serve as such deputies, under 
 the superintendence of the inspector-general, Mr. Hart. These 
 deputies are expected to learn the Chinese language, laws, and cus- 
 toms. Mr. Drew is an American. While walking in the Bund. 
 he lamented to Mr. Seward that British prestige in China prevails 
 over that of the United States : 
 
 Mk. Seward : " To what do you attribute this advantage ? " 
 
 Mr. Drew : " To the superior policy pursued by Great Britain. 
 That nation, as well as France, maintains a habit of demonstration 
 and menace ; the United States a policy of forbearance and con- 
 ciliation." 
 
 Mr. Seward : " These sentiments of your? harmonize witli 
 those of most of our countrymen whom I have met in China, 
 How many foreigners of all nations have you in Ku-Kiang ? " 
 
 Mr. Drew : " Twenty-five." 
 
 Mr. Seward : " How many of these are Americans ? " 
 
 Mr. Drew : " Two or three." 
 
 Mr. Seward : " The others, I suppose, are British and French, 
 with perhaps a German or two ? " 
 
 Mr. Drew : " Yes." 
 
 Mr. Seward : " I understand that, while the foreign popula- 
 tion at Shanghai is two thousand five hundred, only fifty or sixty 
 of these are Americans ? " 
 
 Mi{. Drew : " Yes." 
 
 Mr. Seward : " Have you observed that Great Britain, France, 
 
POLICY OF THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 233 
 
 unci Enssia, maintain in China diplomatic, consular, military, and 
 naval agents, in numbers as far exceeding those of the United 
 States as their national population resident here exceeds that of 
 citizens from the United States ? In short, most of the Americans 
 residing in China are missionaries, are they not ? " 
 
 Mk. Drew : " Yes." ' 
 
 ]\Ik. Seward : " Is it your opinion that there would have been 
 in China, to-day, any more American citizens than there are now, 
 it' the United States had heretofore either waged war against China 
 or menaced her in any way s " 
 
 Mr. Drew: "No." 
 
 Mr. Sewaru : " You have been here many years. Do yon 
 know of any outrage, or injury, or wrong, that the United States 
 have ever complained of, that the Chinese Government has left un- 
 redressed ? " 
 
 Mr. Drew : " I know of none." 
 
 Mr. Seward : " Has Great Britain or France secured to her- 
 self in China any political or commercial benefit or advantage 
 wliieh the Chinese Government has not equally extended, by 
 treaty, to the United States ? " 
 
 Mr. Drew : " No." 
 
 Mr. Seward : " The complaints of the superiority of British 
 nnd French prestige over that of the United States in China are 
 of recent growth. They arose chiefly in the period of our late 
 eivil war. You know little of the herculean difficulties of the 
 (Toverinnent in that conflict. Do you think that the United States 
 (Tdvernment, under the administration of Abraham Lincoln or of 
 Andrew Johnson, could have wisely made war, or demonstration 
 (if war, against China ? " 
 
 Mr. Drew : " No." 
 
 Mr. Seward: "Do you think that the United States ought to 
 provoke China by any act of injustice or wrong? Do you think 
 that it would be wise for the United States, without provocation, to 
 resort to any policy of menace or intimidation ? Do you think 
 tliat the American i)eople would support an administration in such 
 a policy of provocation or menace, now while they arc submitting 
 
 X 
 
 ^ 
 
 I 
 
234 
 
 JAPAX, CHINA, AXD COCHIN CUINA. 
 
 to such liigli taxation to discLarge the national debt incurred in a 
 civil war?" 
 
 Mk. Drew : " I think they would not." 
 
 Mk. Seward : " One question more. If the United States, dui-- 
 ing the last twenty yuars, had pursued a policy of intiniidatioii 
 toward China, do you think that they would have been able, at tlio 
 same time, to draw from this empire an emigration of seventy-live 
 thousand laborers to build the Pacific Railroad, and open the mines 
 in the Rocky Mountains ? " 
 
 Mr. Drew : " I have not tliourht of that before." 
 
 Mr. Seward : " "Well, Mr. Drew, I think we are obliged to con- 
 clude from all these premises that a policy of justice, moderation, 
 and friendship, is the only one that we have had a choice to pursue. 
 and that it has been as wise as it has been imavoidable." 
 
 It is due to Mr. Drew to say that he had received his appoint- 
 ment to bis present place from Mr. Seward as Secretary of State, 
 and that he presented the subject to that gentleman chiefly for tlie 
 purpose of ascertaining how for he had found cause to sympathize, 
 during his sojourn here, with the complaints of our countrymen. 
 
 Mr. Seward closed the conversation by saying : " The United 
 States are a republic, an aggregation of thirty-seven republics. Of 
 the thirty-nine millions, which constitute the American people, less 
 than ten thousand dwell in foreign countries, and a smaller propor- 
 tion in China than in many other countries. The United States 
 cannot be an aggressive nation — least of all can they be aggressive 
 against China." 
 
 We reached the steamer and the end of the discussion at the 
 same moment. This was our visit at Ku-Kiang. 
 
 nan-KoiL\ Sunday^ December l\tk. — At nine o'clock in tiie 
 morning of this blessed Sunday, our steamer forces Iier way to the 
 wharf throui!:h a fleet of a thousand Chinese vessels. These vessels 
 are coastwise junks, river-trading junks, market-junks, fisliing-junks. 
 passage-junks, stationary storehouse-junks, dwelling-junks, and tav- 
 ern-junks. So, after a travel of four months and two days, we 
 have reach(,'d the centre of China. The Ilan, a large tributary, is 
 
 'o^ 
 
CITY OF HAN-KOW. 
 
 235 
 
 to the Yao-f^-tse M'liat the Missouri is to the Mississippi. The con- 
 tinence of the two rivers makes the situ for three large cities. Two 
 of these, llau-Kow and Ilan-Yan, are on the opposite banks of the 
 Ilaii. AVii-Chang is on the Yang-tse, opposite the confluence of the 
 two rivers. Practically, the three constitute one city. The foreign 
 settlement, however, is established at ILin-lvow. 
 
 Marco Polo, in the thirteenth century, found, in Central China; 
 a city on the Yang-tse, which he reported by the name of Klu-sai. 
 lie estimated its circuit at a hundred Chinese miles. This is the 
 (.'itv in which we now are. The good Abbe Hue, who sojourned 
 lare before the dark days of European invasion and domestic rebel- 
 lion, estimated the population of the city at eight millions. While 
 the European residents say that the abbe exaggerates, tliey insist 
 that the present population exceeds one million. The site of Ilan- 
 Kow may be compared to that of St;, Louis. Through the attenu- 
 ated tributaries of the Yang-tse, Ilan-Kow gathers up agricultural, 
 mineral, forest, and manufactured products, from the Western re- 
 (jions of the empire, and distributes them by domestic and foreign 
 exchange through the ports of Tien-Tsin, Shanghai, and Canton. 
 "When one has reached this commanding point, it is easily con- 
 ceived why it is that Shanghai, at the mouth, is so rapidly en- 
 «,'rossing the commerce of the empire. 
 
 The port of Ilan-Kow Avas opened in 1801. The Concession is 
 beautifully laid out, and built u[) in a rich and costly style. It Is 
 spacious enough for ten thousand inhabitants, while the present 
 number of foreigners is only fifty. There are six foreign houses, 
 one of which is American. The high expectations of increase have 
 been disappointed, not because the trade was misestimated, nor yet 
 because it Vas failed, but, strange to say, only for the reason that 
 the native merchants have learned the respective wants of foreign 
 markets, and the ways of supplying thorn. They are now, them- 
 selves, enjoying the advantages which the European merchants have 
 aimed to secure. 
 
 Noon. — "We live on shipboard, but wc, nevertheless, arc enjoy 
 lag the hospitalities of Mr. Fitz, at the house of Russell & Company 
 
 i 
 X 
 
 mm •■% 
 
23G 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 We attended service, tlii:4 morniiif^, at tlio Cliapel of St. Jolin the 
 Evangelist. It was built for the Church of England, but, having l()>t 
 its Government stipend, the congregation is \inablc to support ii 
 pastor. Prayers were read by a Wesloyan missionary, an amateur 
 choir singing the beautiful chants and hymns in an admirable 
 manner. 
 
 Decemher \1tli. — In onr exploration, yesterday afternoon, we 
 found that, although " some things can be done as well as other.*," 
 there is, nevertheless, a "right way and wrong way" of doiii<f 
 them. 
 
 Mr. Fits inquired Avhether we would have chairs sent forvr .rd 
 for our ascent of the promontory, at the junction of the two rivers. 
 The arguments against it were, that mosi persons ])refer walking to 
 the hazard of l)uing carried up the steep hill by coolies. Mr. Sew- 
 ard advised that chairs should be sent, to be used as we should find 
 need. The younger people promptly decided for themselves to dis- 
 pense with the luxury. We went up the river to the base of the 
 promontory in a row-boat {sam-jMii). Thence we made our wav, 
 through a dirty and crowded suburb, up a flight of five hundred 
 stone steps. At this elevation, we found neither platform, bencli, 
 nor stone, to rest on, but only another flight of two thousaiid stone 
 steps before us, with an inclination of forty-five degrees. Mr. Sew- 
 ard took the chair which he had so thoughtfully provided for him- 
 self, and, though his ascent seemed frightful to us, he was borne 
 quickly and safely to the top by two coolies, who neither stumbled 
 nor stopped to rest. The other members of the party followed 
 slowly, and reached the summit completely exhausted. Here, wo 
 availed ourselves of the rest'^ratives of tea and rest, in a dingy 
 Buddhist temple. We might confess now that the view wliicli 
 presented itself amply rewarded the painful eftbrts by which it was 
 obtained, if we could be quite sure that we should recover, in many 
 months, the muscular strength expended. On our right hand, the 
 Yang-tse, a mile wide, flowed with rapid current ; on our left was 
 the Ilan, scarcely eighty feet broad, though its springs are a thou- 
 sand miles distant. The city of Ilan-Kow covers the banks of both 
 
ASPECT OF IIAN-KOW. 
 
 237 
 
 rivers at their junction ; beliind it spreads a vast, low, green marsli, 
 ivory year inundated, and often forcing the iidiabitants to take 
 \x't'n<j;o in boats. At the base of tlie promontory on which we stand, 
 looking down the river, ia the fresh-looking little city of I Ian-Van, 
 enclosed in a neat though not formidable stone-wall ; and, on the 
 opposite bank of the Yang-tsc, crowded with pagodas, palaces, tem- 
 ples, universities, dwellings, barracks, and camps, is \Yu-chang, 
 capital of the province of llu-peh. A thin, blue haze limits tho 
 prospect to an horizon in which a small and lovely lake Hows at tho 
 base of gently-undulathig hills. 
 
 In contrast with other Chinese cities, Ilan-Kow, including the 
 tlu'ce towns, wears a cheerful aspect. The streets arc regular, and 
 the dwellings, of stone or adobe, arc whitened with paint or lime. 
 From our commanding position we made an effort to secure a care- 
 ful estimate of the population. Our conclusion was, that the num- 
 ber of the inhabitants on land within the three cities is one million. 
 But this estimate left us all afloat as to the mass of the dwellers on 
 the water. It would be as easy to look from the high-road on tho 
 Owasco Hills into the beech and maple forests, that border it on 
 either side, and count the trees, as it would be here to number the 
 vessels of all sizes which throw a dark shade across the narrow 
 channel of the Ilan, and over the left bank of the Yang-tse. "VVo 
 venture to set down the population afloat at a hundred thousand. 
 "Who will correct our estimate ? 
 
 We were to dine with Mr. Fitz at seven o'clock, but his house 
 in the Bund is sixty feet above the river. The young people who 
 had so bravely stormed the promontory were only able on their 
 return to climb from the sam-pan to the steamer. Mr. Seward 
 carried with him their reluctant apologies. 
 
 Decemler 12^/i, evening. — An excursion to Wu-chang. Sitting 
 in our sam-pan, we fortunately became spectators of a theatrical 
 entertainment on the bank of the river in Ilan-Kow. We estimated 
 the audience at four thousand, without seats. Standing in rows, 
 one rising above another on the steep declivity, they presented 
 unbroken lines of blue nankeen, yellow faces, and shaven heads. 
 
 
238 
 
 JAPAX, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 The stage was witliout change of bccnc, or scenery of any kind. 
 There was no orchestra, but frec^iient rattling of gongs and drums 
 on the stage. The performers were brilliantly dressed in yellow 
 and red. So far as we could see, there was no breaking up of the 
 performance for time or place. The whole ran on without pause. 
 The actors gesticulated much and grotescpiely, but they drew out 
 
 tlllNESK TllKATUIiAI.S. 
 
 from the patient and deliglited audience not one sign of applau^o. 
 We distinguished frequent battles and dances in the play, but tlie 
 dialogue was lost in the distance. After looking on for half ai: 
 hour, we continued our excursion. AVhen we returned three hoiu-s 
 afterward, we found the performance still going on, with no per 
 ccptible change in cither the actors or the audience. 
 
 Landing at 
 the city into f 
 called the " Lit 
 Its storv, thou<i 
 it into his head 
 her of the drea 
 liiin the erect io 
 hear and obey. 
 We climbed th( 
 Cdufectionery a 
 story. In the 
 liiirh, with loiu 
 iiuistache, and 
 lie sits on the I 
 To speak the tr 
 aspect we have 
 court of a Con 
 and provisions, 
 blind, maimed i 
 aud found its v 
 came out, the ( 
 is no coin in C 
 to the dollar, 
 unaccustomed 
 became import 
 had a few En; 
 cfi'cct than inc: 
 mence. 
 
 Our view i 
 impressions w 
 the previous dr 
 tlic landing-ph 
 the iirst of that 
 river to AVu-cl 
 much curi()sit\ 
 thousand studc 
 
ClIIXESE HECUiARS. 
 
 iJ39 
 
 Liui(li:i^' at "Wu-clianfj, wc asccmled a promontory wliii-li divides 
 the city into two cqnal ])arts. A bri<;lit and variolated pai!;oda, 
 called the " Little Stork," graces the hill above the landing-plaee. 
 Its story, though modern, h charaeteristic: a little golden god took 
 it into his liead one night to ride a snow-white stork into the cham- 
 Wv of the dreaming Taou-tai of the province, and demanded of 
 him the erection of a pagoda in this phace. The Taou-tai said, "I 
 hear and obey," and, when he wakened, "he went and did it." 
 "We climbed the winding staircase of this pagoda. Cakes, tea, and 
 confectionery are served, fortunes told, and " curios" sold in every 
 story. In the upper one is a statue of a little god, about five feet 
 high, with long, slender eyes, smooth black queue, black, waxed 
 mustache, and tunic of bhie and gold. lie smiles complacently as 
 lie sits on the back of a stork, carved in wood and painted white. 
 To speak the truth, he is a merry little god — the only one of that 
 aspect we have met. Leaving the pagoda, we passed through the 
 court of a Confucian temple, thickly crowded with sellers of fruit 
 and provisions, trinket-dealers, vagabonds and idlers, and lame, 
 blind, maimed and loathsome beggars. "VVe looked into the temple, 
 and found its walls covered with texts of the classic books. As avc 
 came out, the crowd around us had formidably increased. There 
 is no coin in China but an iron one, of which a thousand pieces go 
 to the dollar. Of course, we had none of these. The beggars, 
 imaccustomed to being refused the pitiful alms they expected, 
 became importunate and impertinent. One of our servants, M'ho 
 had a few English sixpences, emptied his pockets, without other 
 ctlcct than increasing the number of mendicants and their vehe- 
 mence. 
 
 Our view from the summit behind the temple renewed the 
 impressions which we had received on the opposite promontory, 
 the previous day. Ilesuming our chairs, we were on our return to 
 the landing-place on the river, when a painful adventure occurred, 
 the first of that kind in our travels. Foreigners seldom cross the 
 rivi'r to "Wu-chang. Our visit was a novelty, there, and excited 
 much curiosity. The town contains a university in which ten 
 thousand students are gathered from the provinces, and it also has 
 
 
 
240 
 
 JAPAN, CUINA, AND COCUIN CHINA. 
 
 a military school -with a large garrison. These provincial schools 
 are distinfruished for their bigotry and prejudice against Ibreigners, 
 Our friends, however, had not apprised ns of these facts, nor had 
 they taken into consideration that our party contained two ladic^, 
 who would be objects of special curiosity here, as they were on our 
 way to the Great Wall. A section of the crowd, which had been 
 following us, stopped on the brink ot the hill, from which thcv 
 could look down on the winding path we were descending. Oiu- 
 of the ladies had left her chair, and was walking in advance. Mv. 
 Seward was in an elegant green chair with glass windows ; tlir 
 other lady in a covered bamboo-chair behind. A stone six incliis 
 thick struck the back window of Mr. Seward's chair and shivered it 
 to pieces. A second, as large, entered the same window, and iill 
 within the chair. A third stone struck the top of the last chair. 
 and crushed the frail top. The coolie bearers of the two chairs 
 stopped in a fright, and raised an outcry, directed toward pers()n^ 
 on the top of the clilF. Well they might, for, if either of those 
 missiles had fallen on one of their naked heads, it would have 
 ]iroved fatal. Happily the silken curtains of Mr. Seward's chair 
 saved him from injury. He instantly alighted and turned to tiiul 
 the n<>;ailant. The enemy had, however, lied in consteraation from 
 the hill, and it remained to us only to exchange congratulations 
 upon our escape from a common danger. Though the pe()j)le sur- 
 vounded us in masses, which rendered our passage through the 
 narrow streets tedious and difficult, they made no expression or 
 sign of unkindness or disrespect. Mr. Seward regards the assault 
 not as one of design or deliberation, but as the un])reme(litated and 
 wanton act of rude and mischievous idlers. Nevertheless, tlic 
 gentlemen at Ilan-Kow have aaJfessed the Taou-tai on the subject. 
 
 Departure from TIr.r 
 ('anal, — Approa< 
 down a .Iiink.— 
 — Enibaik on ai 
 
 Steamer Ph^ 
 left the wharf at 
 iiii; to Shanghr 
 lost to us by ni; 
 Kow are low a 
 mountains crow 
 
 DeccDiher !•: 
 approached Ku 
 that we gatherc 
 which we were 
 certain tall n.i 
 ji;la/.ed crowns 
 va^'cs and two 
 frieiuls at horn 
 miliou, the otli 
 
 At Zuakiuij; 
 willi a cupola 
 of each ornam 
 military school 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 RETURN TO SHANGHAI. 
 
 Departure from TTr.n-Kow. — Chinese Military Art. — A Marvellous Echo. — The Imperial 
 Canal. — Approach to Chin-Kiaiig. — The United Stated Steamer Alasku. — llunning 
 down a Junk. — An Apology from the Viceroy. — The Comprador. — Chinese Ladies. 
 
 — Embark on an Knglish Steamer. 
 
 Steamer Phjmouth liocJc, Yang-tse-hiang., Decemher \Zth. — Wo 
 left the wharf at Ilan-Kow at daylight this inoniinf^, and in return- 
 ing to Shanghai wo arc expecting to enjoy, by daylight, the scenes 
 lost to us by night in ascending the river. The banks below Ilan- 
 Ivow arc low and flat, with a city at almost every bend, but the 
 mountains crowd closely on the plain. 
 
 f 
 
 ft 
 
 Dcceinler i\th. — Xight and rain came down upon us as wo 
 approached Ku-lviang, but with only this pleasant consequence, 
 tliat we gathered at the dinner-table in our cabin the merry party 
 which we were to have met on the Ihmd. When they had retired, 
 certain tall natives of the country, of course olive-colored, with 
 <j;la;ced crowns and smoothly-braided (pieues, brought two garden- 
 vases and two baskets, each of the latter containing what our gentle 
 friends at home would pronounce "a lov-e" of a tea-set — one ver- 
 iiiiliun, the other blue. Thanks to j\Ir. Rose. 
 
 At Zuaking is a gleaming white ]iag(>da, one hundred feet high, 
 with a cupola of burnished bniss. It has seven verandas, the roof 
 of each ornamented with bright, tinkling bells. At its base is a 
 iiiilitary school. 
 
 1 
 
242 
 
 JAPAN, CIIIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 Certiiinlv lailitarv nrt, the Avoi-ld over, deliirlits in fine coliu'c; 
 loud noises, and nuu-h detnonstration. In tlie AVest, however, wu 
 are ;ihatin^ color and noise, while we study to increase force. In 
 China, thev reverse this. They do not improve their engines and 
 weapons; tliey make greater noise with their gongs and a more 
 dazzling display of yellow and red in their uniforms and flags than 
 ever. Naval junks meet us everywhere on the river. Though 
 diminutive in size, and carrying ordnaiu-e of the smallest cali])ro, 
 their hunting surpasses that of a Hudson Eiver steamer going to 
 celebrate the Schiitzenfest, 
 
 We have just passed a mountain-gorge which has a marvellnus 
 echo, When we entered the pass, the reverberations were single. 
 Passing on, the shrill notes of the steam-whistle came back to us 
 prolonged and louder. Farther on, the mountains gave us back 
 two distinct sounds for each one they received ; afterward three, 
 four, five for one. It was the perfection of ventrilo(]uism. The 
 sounds were articulate; they seemed to come through the earth; 
 sometimes sonorous, at others soft and plaintive, always iniprc:" 
 sive and mournful. 
 
 Chin-Klang, Dcccmhcp 'ifyf/i. — Anchoring oif the left ]nm\i. of 
 the river in very deep Avater, and taking the ship's boats, we made 
 an entrance, not v.ithout dilHculty, into the Imperial Canal, 
 
 Take its story briefly, to understand better what little we saw: 
 Built in the thirteenth century, it is a monument e(|ually of the 
 greatness and of the wisdom ol" Kul)lai-Khan, Its length is ,-i.\ 
 liundred and fiftv miles, nearlv twice that of the Erie Canal. Ho- 
 signed for irrigation as well as navigation, it vai'ies in width fmni 
 two liundred feet to two thousand feet. It is not, like our canals, 
 built by excavation, but with artilicial dikes raised on an alluvial 
 soil, its banks and bottom paved and cemented. Instead of locks, 
 there are inclined planes. Every abutment, flood-gate, and 1>ri(l:ii', 
 is of s(did grainte masonry. The ]iii|)erial Canal, like the Kv'w 
 Canal, is not an isolated channel, but only the nuiin artery of a 
 system of artificial navigation, the aggi'egatc length of \\\\o-v 
 parts is four thousand miles, while they })enetrate every ((iic 
 
 l!^;r:f'':S'^ii 
 
 
 
 :''|;. ,: 
 
 W^- 
 
 I*: 
 
 '/.fv,,: '; : 
 
 I'' ' -^mi::\M^- 
 
colors, 
 er, ^v(J 
 e. Ill 
 es iuid 
 L nuire 
 js than 
 'lioiiu'h 
 .•alil)re, 
 oing tit 
 
 •vollttus 
 ' t^iiiifle. 
 k to us 
 us back 
 1 throe, 
 II. The 
 3 earth; 
 impres- 
 
 tank of 
 ,ve made 
 
 wo saw : 
 of the 
 h is >ix 
 ah De- 
 1th tVnia 
 r canals, 
 
 alhivial 
 di' locks, 
 1 hrul,-.', 
 the Krie 
 [vvy "'t' a 
 )t' whii-c 
 
 crv one 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 u 
 
 to 
 
 
 
 u 
 
 (f) 
 
 
 CO 
 
 u 
 
244 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 of the eigliteen provinces of the empire. The canal is compactly 
 crowded with junks. We couUl not make our way into it a 
 yard's length, without Maiting for a movement of the vessels 
 for our accommodation. Our appeals to the boatmen for this 
 courtesy were not unkindly received, though tlu^ result was a 
 scene of wild and noisy disturbance. "We soon became con- 
 vinced that, in our small boats, we were in danger of being 
 crushed between junks, even though nothing should occur to pro- 
 duce misunderstanding or disturbance. We returned, therefore, 
 to the shi[)'s deck, as cautiously as possible. In that position we 
 traced the course of the canal " high," though not " dry," above 
 ground four miles. The shipping through that distance wao as 
 dense as at the mouth. The offices of the managers and toll-col- 
 lectors cover the banks, Avhile an armed fleet rides at the mouth of 
 the canal to prevent piracy and smuggling. We learn here that 
 obstructions render the canal impassable for the aggregate extent 
 of one hundred and lifty miles. Even the navigable portions are 
 so much injured as to float only small vessels. The largest we saw 
 aro of one huu'lred and flfty tons burden. 
 
 Three months ago, when a foreign war Avas apprehended, an 
 engineer subnutted to the Government a project for restv^ring the 
 navigation, but elicited no reply. There is little doobt that the 
 canals of China, the most successful and mac-nificcnt svstem of in- 
 
 ' til/ 
 
 land navigation the world has ever seen, are falling into dscay and 
 
 rum 
 
 The approach to Chin-Kiang is very picturesque. It stands on 
 a semicircular bay — the western entrance guarded by (lolden Isl- 
 and, on which stand a Buddhist temple and a ])agoda — the easti ni 
 entrance by Silver Island, its undulating surface embellished with 
 tea-houses and villas, 
 
 December IH^A, 4 o'elocl', — Wo are passing from the br<i;u^ 
 estuary into the AVoosung. Farewell, Yang-tse, worthy, from thy 
 length and breadth, to be called " Son of the Sea," though the 
 critics learned in the Chinese 'anguage deny thee that signiflcant 
 appellation, and mention (hat Yang-tse means something else. 
 
 Shanghai^ L 
 
 passed the Colo 
 
 Shanghai, the P 
 
 among the forei 
 
 iinanid her in all 
 
 liv.aiting a laum 
 
 stcaniship-of-war 
 
 were in the act o 
 
 (leek, she rode ov 
 
 cross her bow. 
 
 ap])eared on eitln 
 
 jiuilv was freiu'h 
 
 clinging to the s 
 
 stniggling in tlu 
 
 jrines, threw out 
 
 nately, at that m 
 
 farced by Chinei 
 
 unable to discov( 
 
 saddened our reti 
 
 Beccmljcr 17// 
 survivors of the m 
 plaiits against tlu 
 is engaged in exa: 
 '■aptain of the Ah 
 the l)ar before eb 
 had time to clear 
 rnick, they esj)ie 
 ilarin lest they 
 IliCM'r course and f 
 
 We have arrar 
 
 Shanghai, Dec 
 
 toll. E. Ilobson, 
 
 "I am in rec( 
 
 visited Wu-Chan< 
 17 
 
SrANGIIAI. 
 
 245 
 
 Shanghai, December ICdh, night. — Quite to our surprise, we 
 passed the Colorado, still at her anchorage. As we approached 
 Shanghai, the Plymouth Rock took a berth far out in the stream 
 among the foreign shipping, busy junks and sam-pans darting 
 around her in all directions. While standing on the steamer's deck 
 uv;aiting a launch to convey us to the bank, the United States 
 steaniship-of-\var Alaska came rapidly down the river. As we 
 were in the act of exchanging compliments with the officers on her 
 deck, she rode over a Chinese junk which was madly attempting to 
 cross her bow. An instant afterward the two parts of the junk 
 apjieared on either side of the iron-clad. With how many lives the 
 junk was freighted we could not know, but we saw living men 
 clinging to the sundered parts of the wreck, and other living men 
 struggling in the water. The Alaska j romptly reversed her en- 
 i.'ines, threw out life-preservers and lowered her boats. Fortu- 
 nately, at that momeni, a steam-launch from the Colorado, re{;n- 
 t'oi'ced by Chinese sam-]ians, went to the rescue, but we were 
 unable to discover with what success. The painful incident has 
 
 saddened our return to Shanghai. 
 
 Dcccinhcr 17th. — We learn from the consul-general that the 
 survivors of the wrecked juijlc hastened to tl\e consulate with com- 
 piaiits against the Alaska, and that he, as well as Admiral Rodgers, 
 is engaged in examining the circumstances of the collision. The 
 raptain of the Alaska represents that he was liastcning to get over 
 the bar before ebb-tide ; that the junk was crossing his bows, and 
 had time to clear herself, l)ut that, as her crew advanced on their 
 track, they espied the Plymouth Rock coming up, and, taking 
 ilarin lest they should come under her wheels, they stopped in 
 their course and fell under the keel of the Alaska. 
 
 We have arranged to sail for IIong-Kong on the 22d. 
 
 Shanghai, December Vdth. — Le-ming-Chc, Taou-tai of llan-Kow, 
 
 toll. E. Ilobson, assista .t in charge Ilan-Kow customs: 
 
 "lam in receipt of your note informing me of your having 
 
 visited Wu-Chang, with a party among whom was his Excellency 
 17 
 
 t 
 
2iG 
 
 JArAX, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 AVilliam II. Sewavd, on which occnsion you were nspnilerl hy a 
 disonlerly nK)b of boys, and your sedan-chairs broken. The pru- 
 ceediu^- was most indecorous. I am iiilensely grieved that his 
 Excellency, the American Secretary, should have met with such an 
 insult on the occasion of his visit. I respectfully re<|uest you u, 
 convey to liis Excellency my ])rofound regret for what has taken 
 place. I have duly instructed the AVu-Chang nuigistrate to issue 
 procLanuitions to prosecute the offenders. 
 
 " Intercahing, tenth moon, twenty-tirst day." 
 
 S/ianr/hai, December l^^tli. — The compmiloi^ in China, is a char- 
 acter as incomprehensible as important, lie is a native trained in 
 accounts and trade. Employed by the foreign hoiuj^ (mercantile 
 houses) as book-keeper and accountant, he adds to these functions 
 that of the broker, who buys for the firm, and makes all its sales. 
 In these transactions, he receives connnissions from both parties. 
 "What is more singular is, that he maintains this duplicity of rela- 
 tions without suspicion of dishonesty. The cotapvador does not 
 confine himself to mere trade, he is indis[)ensai)le in all domestic 
 and social transactions, lie negotiates nuirriages between parties 
 who never know nor see each other until the contract is completed. 
 Russell k. Company's comprador^ to-day, paid his annual visit to 
 Mr. Warden at the Compouiul. He brought his wife and her twn 
 handmaidens, presenting the latter, liowever, as his wives, numbers 
 three and four ; a})ologizing for number two, who remained at 
 home. Also, two daughters-in-law, one child, and six attendants. 
 The women, of course, came to pay their res})ects to ]\[rs. Warden. 
 The comprador desired to make his homage to Mr. Seward, and the 
 women re(piested an introduction to the ladies of his party. There 
 was ditficulty, at first, about the women coming into ^Iv. Seward's 
 presence, but it was overcome. The Avives and the boy shook 
 hands with us (juite in the American way, but evidently not with- 
 out concern for their finger-nails, some of which were quite as loiiir 
 as the fingers that bore them. They were elegantly dressed, wear- 
 ing a profusiitn of jewels, and were very timid. As they spoke no 
 English, and we no Chinese, nothing remained Ibr them hut to 
 
 study our dresi 
 eles of vertu i 
 these on the fi 
 Tlie grand staii 
 tiny feet, each i 
 HUist not be a 11 
 "such a gettin 
 lieen amusin<r, 
 thorough and i 
 they descended 
 They then liste: 
 Calling, then, fo 
 kss to describe, 
 mysteries and ab 
 visit, the compn 
 children with al 
 key-cock. As w 
 our arms, up an; 
 v.iioed indood, 
 pendcnce was t 
 the abasement o 
 
 Steamer Tra. 
 nttendod us to th 
 lialconies, the co 
 For the first 
 Travaucore, nam 
 • 'f Malabar, beh 
 steamers, usually 
 The familiar 
 '^he had sailed, 
 ]>ressiiig our !•(_.<, 
 passed the bar. 
 tlag-shij) before 
 streamers fiying, 
 every yard fullv 
 
THE CHINESE COMPRADOR. 
 
 241 
 
 >tn(ly our drosses and ornaments, as well as the furniture and arti- 
 (k's of vertu in tlic driiwing--ro(»m. AVlien they luid exhausted 
 those on the first-Uoor, they desired to explore the second story. 
 The grand stairway is broad and easy, but, as all these women have 
 tiny feet, each re(|uired a stnmi; arm in makiui; the ascent, but that 
 nuist not be a man's arm. The ladies, therefore, oifered theirs, and 
 " such a getting up-stairs, you ne\x'r did see ! " It would have 
 liecii amusing, if it had not been reallv dangerous. After a 
 thorough and minute inspection of the ujtper part of the house, 
 they descended the staircase with much nervous a})prchension. 
 They then listened wonderingly to our music on the piano-forte. 
 Calling, then, for their gorgeous sedan-chairs, they retired, doubt- 
 less to describe, to their small-footed and long-fingered friends, the 
 mysteries and absurdities of AVestern fashions. During their entire 
 visit, the comjjrador had directed the movements of his wives and 
 children with all the vigilance and conscious superiority of a tur- 
 key-cock. As we assisted the W(tmen, or rather carried them in 
 our arms, up and down the staircase, bright-eyed, gentle, and sweet- 
 v.iiccd indeed, but dwarfed, distorted, and enslaved, their de- 
 l»cndence was touching. AVe had not before realized the depth of 
 the abasement of women in China. 
 
 % 
 
 Steamer Tmvancore, China Sea, Deccinher 22(r7. — Many friends 
 ntteiuled us to the steamer, and kiiullv signals were made to us from 
 halconies, the consulate, and the shipping in the harbor. 
 
 Kor the first time in our travels, we are on a foreign deck. The 
 Travancore, named froni a ])rovince in British India, on the coast 
 (if Malabar, belongs to the " Peninsular and Oriental " line of 
 sti'aiucrs, usually abbreviatod the " P. and O." 
 
 The familiar berth of the Colorado, at Wusnng, was vacant. 
 She had sailed, an hour before, for Nagasaki. AVe were still ex- 
 pressing our regret that we were to see her no more, when we 
 passed the bar. Staiuling southerly, however, wc saw the majestic 
 tla;;-sliip before us, at rest in the open sea, with all her flags and 
 stivauicrs flying, the admiral and officers on the quarter-deck, and 
 uvcrv yard fullv nuinned. Three hearty cheers greeted us from her 
 
 4 
 
 U I 
 
 » 1 
 
 
248 
 
 JAPAN. CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 six hundred seamen, her colors dropped, officers and men sahitoi] 
 us, and the faithful band gave us for farewell the same old national 
 air with which it had greeted us on coming into Chinese waters. 
 The Ti'avancore lowered her fiag.s, and every officer and passeiitrci 
 joined us in acknowledging the kind and loyal demonstration of the 
 Colorado. 
 
 SCENE UN TUE LMPEUIAL CA2<AL. 
 
 nnil Weather.— Cold 
 iron<;-Kong. — Ijc 
 cigu Population. 
 
 On hoard tJi 
 
 more of the Chi 
 Sea of Japan, tl 
 I!ay of Yeddo, i 
 A bleak woy 
 to the cabin as g 
 (luring tlie day, 
 seasrouglier, anc 
 ing. This cold 
 the high M-inds 
 equallv oblige fi 
 iiappened that 
 narrow sea divic 
 continent. K^ 
 j^iirrounded with 
 ^Vo mark a n 
 men, on the Pa( 
 arc in the coastu 
 oly is broken hej 
 showed many 
 
CHAPTER XIY. 
 
 FROM SHANGHAI 10 HONG-KONG. 
 
 D:ul Weatlicr. — Cold Weather. — Variety of Seamen. — The Ship's Acconi :',da ' ns. — 
 IIonj;-Kons. — Beautiful Scenery. — Old Ac(iuaintance3 renewed. — Nativj a For- 
 eign Populiition. 
 
 On hoard the Travancore^ Christmas-Daij^ 1870. — Gi o us no 
 more of the China Sea; give us, histeau, the Paci'*' • Ocean, the 
 Sea of Japan, the Yellow Sea ; give ns any water, if iC be not the 
 I'ay of Yeddo, and any Gulf, hut the Gulf of Pe-chee-lee. 
 
 A bleak ^iiortheaster, with rain, wind, and darkness, drove us 
 to the cabin as soon as we had parted with the Colorado. "When, 
 during the day, the decks dried, the winds grew higher and the 
 seas rougher, and we have remained prisoners below, until the morn- 
 ing. This cold weather, on the verge of the tropics, is a surprise ; 
 the high M'inds compel the native shipping to hug the coast, and 
 equally oblige f(.»reign vessels to keep away from it. Thus, it has 
 happened that we have seen neither ship nor coast, although a 
 narrow sea divides the great island of Formosa on our left from the 
 continent. Xow that we arc approaching Hong-Kong, we are 
 surrounded with native craft. 
 
 We mark a new phase in tliis navigation. AYe found the sea- 
 men, on the Pacific niail-stcamer (-hinn, chiefly Chinese ; so they 
 are in the coastwise trade of the Yellow Sea. This Chinese nionop- 
 olv is broken heie. At the ship's muster this morning, the ranks 
 showed many variations of physiognomy, with all shades of dark 
 
 
 -J 
 
 
 i 
 
ooiiii)lexi(>n. f 
 vollt)W C'liiiit'ise; 
 Hindoos, iiliiiosl 
 hair; and stroi 
 South Africa. 
 less diverse. 
 Muhaininedans. 
 ut' tiiitli, as well 
 dress as on slu 
 week-days, wliic 
 ton trousers an^ 
 sashes, and tnrl 
 eiuhroidered, scf 
 white shirts, an 
 the iJjaycst of eo 
 The ship's a( 
 of the Puc'itic '^. 
 Tlu)u<?li the tab 
 and the linen is 
 otiicors and scar 
 
 Hong-Kong, 
 Great Britain h.' 
 It rises more ah 
 in [he West In( 
 
 We anc'hori 
 shipping here tl 
 the hill-sides s 
 structure of tin 
 in the harbor, \ 
 mas-greens. \ 
 tive here of Rii 
 princely honse. 
 been kindled tl 
 ing escaped at 
 memoranda, sit 
 
ARRIVAL AT nOXG-KONG. 
 
 251 
 
 I 
 
 e()iii[>lexi(ni. Of Europeans tliero are none; besides the li^-lit- 
 vi'IIdw Chinese, there are the darker ^lalays ; small but aetive 
 lliiidoos, aliiuist bhiek, with pert'eet Caucasian features and eurliiij^ 
 luiir; and strun^ly-built, heavy-featured, coal-bhu-k ne<::r()es from 
 South Africa. The langiuiii;es and religions of the crew are not 
 less diverse. There are I>raniins, Buddhists, Confucians, and 
 Muhannnedans. AVhile uniform discipline is enforced, ditferenco 
 of faith, as well as of diet and costume, is tolerated. The Chinese 
 dress as on shore. The Hindoos wear a gay cotton blouse, on 
 week-days, which they exchan<^c on holidays for tijj;htly-titting cot- 
 ton trousers and blouses of the same material, scarlet or crimson 
 gaslies, and turbans. The Hindoo boatswain adds to this a gilt- 
 embroidered, scarlet vest. The Malays wear calico pantaloons, with 
 white shirts, and the negroes, here as everywhere else, indulge in 
 the gayest of colors. 
 
 The ship's accommodations do not compare fiivorably with those 
 of the Pacitic Mail Line, but here disparaging criticism must end. 
 Though the table is frugal, the wines and provisions arc of the best, 
 and the linen is unimpeachable. The service is punctual, and the 
 otiieers and seamen are courteous and watchful. 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 t 
 
 11' 
 
 ':;:!,; 
 
 Ill I 
 
 ITong-Kong, December 2(jth. — IIong-Kong is an island, which 
 Great Britain has conquered, and commands the entrance of Canton. 
 It rises more abruptly from the water than the island of St. Thomas 
 in [he West Indies. 
 
 We anchored at three o'clock yesterday. There is far less 
 sliipping here than at Shanghai. The terraces which wind around 
 die hill-sides show distinctly in bold outline every dwelling and 
 structure of the European town, which, as Avell as the foreign ships 
 in the harbor, w\as yesterday gayly decorated Avith flags and Christ- 
 mas-greens. We were received by Mr. Murray Forbes, representa- 
 tive here of Russell & Company, at Kee-Chung, the name of their 
 princely house. We founi fire on the hearth, the first which has 
 been kindled this season, and the people here are rejoicing in hav- 
 ing escaped at last the intense heat of summer. We make these 
 memoranda, sitting in a deep window of this great, old-fashioned 
 
 r 
 
 
252 
 
 JAPAN, CUINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 dwelling, shadowed by the mountaiii-suiniuit, while an unclouded 
 morning sun brings the town below into broad relief, and beyond 
 it the deep, blue bay dotted with diverae shipping. A high, rod, 
 rocky coast bounds the prospe t. Inuigine such a picture as we 
 have tried to i)resent, seen as we are seeing it through a frame- 
 work of palmetto, banyan, camphor, and acacia trees, and you have 
 Hong-Kong. 
 
 December 'i'th. — Resting, Mr. Seward has exchanged visits witii 
 the Governor of IIong-Kong, and the United States consul, Mr. 
 Bailey. AVe are renewing old acquaintances with countrymen 
 and countrywomen. Our departure for Singapore is lixed for the 
 3d of January. We need, therefore to improve our few remain, 
 ing days in China. 
 
 The British found five thousand natives on the north end 
 of the island. Under the rule of Great Britain, they are now a 
 busy and prosperous community, nund)ering forty thousand engafred 
 in trade and the fisheries. The foreign population is perhaps one 
 thousand. 
 
 TBADtNO-JtJNK. 
 
OHAPTER XV. 
 
 FROM nONG-KONG TO CAXTOX. 
 
 The Chinese Coastinf^-Tnule. — Chinose Smugfilers. — Canton Rivoi-nanks. — Aspcet of 
 Canton. — Tlio liritish Concession. — Tiio Anicriean Ilonp.s. — Tlie Consul and tlio 
 Taoti-tai. — Tlie Diet of the Cantonese. — Manufactures of Canton. — The Temples of 
 Canton. 
 
 Canton, Dcccmhcp 2f>th ; Steamer Kin-San. — Aiucricuii side- 
 wlieol steamers carry the foreign coasting-trade between Ilong- 
 Koiig and Macao westward, IIong-Kong and Canton northward, 
 and Hong-Kong, Swatow, Aiuoy, Xing-po, and Foo-Choo, on the 
 eastern coast. 
 
 "We occnpied, with two friends, the saloon and ni)pcr cabins of 
 the Kin-8an, wliile the hiwer deck bore four hnndred Chinese, 
 cliictly traders, who i)ay a fare of a IMexican dollar for a voyage of 
 ninety miles. The pnrser brought us the box which contained the 
 collection of dollars for this vova2;e. Many were rejected. The 
 coins were genuine, but almost every piece had been clipped. The 
 deliciency was made up in " cash." From the deck, we noticed a 
 native trader, who at intervals advanced to the bulwark, and threw 
 into the Avator small bunches of hay and straw. Wo observed that, 
 in every ca.- . natives rowed from the shore in small boats, and 
 picked up this refuse. Our friends, who knew the trick, informed 
 us that the bunules of hay and straw contained packages of opium. 
 Another trader dropped a sealed bottle into the river, A jiartncr, 
 who was waiting on the bank, took it up and found in it the prices 
 
 
254 
 
 JAPAX, CIIIXA, AND COCIIIX CHINA. 
 
 current of o]>iuin at London. SmuirgHng wears only this tliln 
 coverintj in (,'lnna. 
 
 Onr course for forty-five miles — half our vovaije — lay amonir p(>a- 
 islands, ^'ivin<j^ us only occasional gliinjises of the main-land. AVo 
 then entered the narrow channel of the deep river, promiscuouslv 
 called the Xcvtu and the Canton. The hanks are lined M-itli tlic 
 "■ Dogue" forts, before the " Opium AVar " reirarded l)y the Chinese 
 as a reliable defence. The victors stipulated that tlicsc forts sliali 
 not a^ain be garrisoned. They are now falling into ruin. Thus 
 Cantoi); the southern capital of China, is absolutely defenceless, MJtli 
 a British naval and military station at its very door. Might n(»t 
 Christian merchants in the East be content with this? Whamjxm, 
 some fifteen miles t.own the river, is the outpost of the foreign trade 
 carried on at Canton. The river-banks below AVhampoa are dull 
 and monotoimns. Above that ]ilace they present scenes of trojiical 
 luxuriance and beauty. The vallev expands, and is covered with 
 sugar-plantations, banana and orange groves, and the surroundiui;' 
 hills are crowned with pagodas. Canton stands on the right hank 
 of the river, but projects in long suburbs over the ojtposite shore. 
 Ts either Nagasaki, nor Yok<»hama, nor Osaka, nor Ilan-Kow, luir 
 Tien-Tsin, nor Shanghai, nor IIong-KdUg, nor Peking, gives the 
 stranger so effective an impression of a great city. 
 
 AVe moored at the wharf in the midst of a floating city of three 
 hundred thousand souls. Canton, lilce the surrounding provinces, 
 is traversed by canals, which bring to its >^harvcs passengers in 
 immense numbers from all parts of the empire. The inventive 
 talent, as well as the frugality of the Chinese, is in nothing more 
 eons]>icuous than in the provision which is made for these wayside 
 travellers. There are blocks and streets of gnyly-painled and deco- 
 rated fl(»ating inns or taverns, shops i'or supplyirg all wants with- 
 out the delay and cost of going ashore. Our passaj','e th"ough these 
 wimling streets and alleys gave us some odd revelations of marine 
 life. All manner of domestic occupations are carried o\\ without 
 fear of annoyance, or affectation ot" privacy. (Jhins j^ro shaveu, 
 (pieucs arc ])laited, dinners arc cooked and served, clothes are niado, 
 washed, and mended, children are dressed, whipped, and ])iit to 
 
 II. Seward, f( 
 
THE Tor-TArs note. 
 
 255 
 
 liL'il, tliiit is to say, laid on a niiit and fastened with a cord aivound 
 tliL'ir waists, and tied to a mast to keep them from falling overboard. 
 Kvcn ''iield- sports" arc not wanting. A favorite exercise of this 
 kind is the chase of the wharf-rat. "We saw one caught, skinned, 
 ^jiitted, and i)ut on charcoal. This amusement is pursued chiefly 
 l.v Women and children. The ilshing with cormorants is a vocation 
 vl' a large class. 
 
 ()ur party had no sooner reached shore, than it broke into fac- 
 tions. The younger members extemporized a guide and boat, 
 cntssed tlie river, and were soon lost in studying carved ivory, 
 t-licll, and sandal-wood boxes, pagodas and toilet-cases, and orna- 
 iiieuts of gold, silver, jas})er, and jade. Mr. Seward, more politic, 
 visited the British Concession. If they found the fabrics of Canton 
 iiKirc e.\(piisite than they had imagined, he found the f(jreign settle- 
 ment more spacious and elegant than the peoph> of Shanghai and 
 Jlong-Kong allow it to be. There are thirty or forty spacious 
 t'oreign hongs, an ]"][)iscopal church, built of white marble, and a 
 (liib-liouse with a good libraiy and l)illiard-room ; on the bank, a 
 jn'oiuenade, handsomely-ornamented with gardens, wliich rejoices 
 in the name of Cha-min (rfand-face). 
 
 The American houses, Knssell vfc Comjiany and Smith, Archer 
 <k Company, finding that the accpiisition of title by Ann ricans 
 wiliiin the Ih'itish Concession was attended with some uncertainty, 
 have rel)uilt their old factories in the Chinese city outside the Con- 
 cession, and we are here the guests of those well-known hongs. 
 
 to 
 
 f \ 
 
 IWc'/nher 2'^t/i. — Archdeacon Crey is a pliilo-Chinese. lie has 
 resided hero nineteen years, and he kindly otl'ers us his invaluable 
 assistance in the exploration of Can* on. 
 
 Meantime, the United States consul, anticipating that Mr. Sew- 
 ard would esteem it an act of becoming courtesy to call on the 
 Tauu-ta' of the province, addressed a note to that functionary. lie 
 remitted to the consul the following well-argued and most coueUi- 
 sive answer: 
 
 "In answer to your note stating that the Honorable William 
 II. Seward, formerly Secretary of State, having visited Peking, and 
 
 t 
 
 t ' 
 
25G 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 called at the foreign office there, had arrived in Canton, and pro- 
 posed to appoint a time to call, etc., I have to say that, considerinrr 
 his Honor ScAvard has laid aside his office, and therefore there can 
 be no consulting upon public business, and as the foreign office h;i.s 
 sent no notice of his coming, it is not convenient for us to see and 
 look each other in the face. 
 
 " Please inform his Honor Seward, the great officer, that it will 
 be of no use to come to my office. This reply with my best compli- 
 ments, niy name and my card." 
 
 The consul, we know not how justly, attributes this decision of 
 the Taou-tai to a public misunderstanding between himself and tli:it 
 officer, which hail arisen before our arrival — the Taou-tai feariiii: 
 that an interview with Mr. Seward might produce some poi>ul;ir 
 jealousy. 
 
 Canton is a sphinx, serenely indulging in calm recollections, and 
 seeming to smile with e(pial contentment on time and change. AVi; 
 have interrogated it. How shall we be able to record its responses. 
 
 The city covers a very large plain. Some of the streets are Uii 
 feet wide, they average seven; all irregular and without a plan. 
 They are travelled chiefly on foot, but almost everywhere sedan- 
 chairs can be used. Paved Avith Hat granite blocks, the sewerage 
 is concealed, and in this one Chinese city there is no want of publ' 
 cleanliness. An untidy person is as rarely seen in the streets hei 
 as a tidy one in the streets of Peking or llan-Kow. Occasionally, 
 we passed a dwelling, pnlatial in its dimensions and end)ellishment, 
 but, generally speaking, the city ju'esents nu-rely a mass of shojis. 
 The floors are on a level with the streets, the houses without veran- 
 das or porches, and entirely open in front. 1'he buildings arc 
 narrow, usually of one story, often twenty feet high, and carh 
 has an attic. It is a Chinese ]n'ovorb tliat " ill-luck follows ridge- 
 benms which connect with each oilier in a c<»ntinuons line." 
 Hence tlu) roofs are (»f uneipial height, and the boards which jmo- 
 ject from them over the streets, to i)rotect travellers from the smi 
 ami rain, are irregularly ])laced. Tlu; material of the fragile walls 
 is dark-brown brick. Every one knows that the Chinese write from 
 right to left, and in downward columns. The sign-boards, painted 
 
pro- 
 
 o 
 
 w 
 
 tn 
 
 r 
 
 I 
 
 - i 
 
258 
 
 JAPAX, CIIIXA, AXD COOIHN CVlllA. 
 
 ill ricM vermilion or gilded on dark blue, iustcnd >; ')(iiur,'li'iri/oiili], 
 luiiig pci'pondit'alarly, everywhere obstructing Mio passenger. Tjio 
 shops are gorgeously ornamented. llelmbold's \ iiteiit-modi-iiie 
 shop on Broadway would not be out of place here. There are no 
 street monumentj?. The streets are often short and curved, they 
 branch at all angles, and sometimes are continued through very 
 narrow gates or mere door-ways. It th'is happens that there is m* 
 long vista, and Canton is a labyrinth, which only one who i< prac- 
 tised therein can thread. It is divided into quarters for the accom- 
 modation of divers kinds of business more completely than any 
 Euroi)ean city. Bankers have their exclusive Wall Streets ; the 
 mercantile shops aro in districts removed from manufactories ; em- 
 broiderers, silk-weuv'ers, cotton-weavers, lapidaries, jewellers, and 
 carvers, have sei)arately their own (piarters. Only vegetables, 
 fruits, iisli, meat, poultry, and game, are dis})layed everywhere. 
 
 The dwellers in (juiton are epicureans. They have tish from 
 the rivers and lish from the sea — veal, mutton, venison. ;)Igs, kids, 
 ducks, geese, grouse, j)heasants, (piails, and ortolans, Whatevci" 
 they can serve you at the Astor- House, you can command here— 
 ay, more than can be found oi> the Astor- House carte ; for, in the 
 midst of the temj)tiiig display 1 the provision-shoj)?, are seen the 
 carefully-dressed carcasses of infinite rats and unmi:-t:dvab)c twaddles 
 of dogs, while here and there you n(»rice in the shop-windows a 
 ])hicard which announces that "black eat is served hot, at all 
 hours." A decoi tion of sua -■ • ; sold as a medicine. As we were 
 ])assing a small lake, a boy wi our train waded waist-deep ami 
 brought out a water-snake. We urged iiim to tlirow the un- 
 fortunate reptile back, but he declined, and, bruising its head, he 
 l)ut his linger to his mouth by way of informing us that it was to 
 be his supper. 
 
 Rope is made here by the same process as among us, but a 
 greater variety of materials is used. Besides hemp, they work 
 baml)oo, ratan, and tanned and untanned hides. 
 
 A primitive i)rocess is resorted to in Ideaching. The operator 
 tiilces clean water by tlie mouthful and spurts it over the fabr'". 
 Calendering is lone as it was in Euroi)e before the invention of 
 
LACQli-ER-WARE, 
 
 250 
 
 liK Jura inachiiiery, Tlic doth is ]);issed under a fetono rolb.r wliich 
 the operative rocks with his toot. The /^lot^s j»rodu^ed is unoiiaalled. 
 "We entered a tlourinu uill — a blinded eow, at the end of a sliat'r, 
 moves eacli of the seven [»airs of stones. The oiieration is perfect, 
 and the fininials seem sound and healthy. The human foot moves 
 the winnowing and boltiiiij; processes. 
 
 No stranjjer could conceive the excellence or the cheapness of 
 artistic ])roduction. Mr. Seward, fancying a carving of sandal-wood 
 suitable for a door-wav, valued it at three hundred dollars. It was 
 uli'ered him at sixteen I 
 
 It can hardly be believed that the extensive manufacture of 
 silks in China is carried on without the use of the " Jac(juard " 
 Iduui. The workshop is without a floor. The primitive hand- 
 locin, with the operator's bench, is i)laced in an excavation. They 
 insist here that the moisture of the ground Imparts a ]'<»rcelain gloss 
 to the silk. Silk-cndjroidery is the most important numuiacture. 
 This toilsome and exhausting labor is performed exclusively by 
 men, instead of being devi'lved on delicate women, as in European 
 countries. We bought, at nominal j)rices, articles which Avould 
 have a fabulous value at home. 
 
 Lac(]uer-ware is made, though less extensively than in Japan. 
 This is the process: A frame of the required article is made of thin 
 wood or veneering perfectly seasoned. This frame is covered inside 
 and out with soft silk-])aper, made to adhere smoothly by use of a 
 u'lutinous solution. AVlicn the paper has perfectly dried, a coating 
 of pulverized granite, mixed in a tine oil, is spread over tl.e surface. 
 This granite i)aste hardens in its turn, and n(»w the process of 
 iac'(|uering begins. The lacquer is a vegetable jince im]><irted from 
 India in earthen jars, and, when fresh, is milk-white ; wlien exposetl 
 to the air, it thickens and becomes black. It is aj)plie(l with a 
 hnish and left Ui dry. No less than eight successive coats are put 
 on, sometimes more. The Chinese, in speaking of a fool, use the 
 jiroverb that "he wants the ninth coating of lac(juer." After the 
 lii('(pierijig is comj)leted, the ornamentation, usually in vermilion 
 and gold, takes place. Professional artists make the designs in 
 [10 rib rated paper. 
 
 r '1 
 
 I 
 
 00. I 
 
200 
 
 JAPAN, riFIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 A lai\<!:o district in the citv is devoted to the iiKuiutUcture anil 
 ;de ot" oniaiiicnts in jade. A Cliiiieso j^'allant, speakinii; of a I'kIv, 
 
 fsavs she is "as heautilul as jad( 
 
 We failed to understand tl 
 
 secret of its value until infoiincd of the lirnuiess of its texture. .\ 
 )>iece ol" this stone, weiiihiui:' live pounds, has tiie dull aitjiearaiice' 
 of a coninioii pchhle. It is sawed into }»hites of the recjuired tliii-k- 
 iiess hy the use of a tine wire nii»\ed by liand. After this, turuiiii;'. 
 lathes and lai)idaries' instruments are eni])luycd. AVith these it i- 
 shaped into tin^er-rin<;s, ear-rinucs, bracelets, ban<::les, buckles, cups, 
 vases, and tlie like. The best jade is that which sliades ironi inilkv 
 white to cli'ar u'reen. 
 
 We notice that women of the hi^-her class "svoar a hind of orna- 
 ment peculiar to Canton. It consists of a head-dress or cap, brace- 
 lets or fim!,vr-l•in^^s, made of iilaii'ree ,irold, delicately enamelled wiili 
 tlie l)lue kinu'lisiier's feathers, and lieavily studded with pearls and 
 ucms. 
 
 .\moii<r temi)les, m'o visited first tliat of Pak tai (tlie l)ra<xoii\ u 
 Taoiii;.tic deity. The dra_i;(»n is one of the sacn-d eml)lems of (.1iiii:i. 
 Uefore that emblem stands a shrine, and below this a livinir I'cp- 
 re-ontative of the monster in the shape of !i pretty little brinht- 
 i:reeii snake, ^\ Inch c(»ils in the i.'anchcs »»f a dwarfed tree, cultivated 
 in a small <rarden-va.se. Incense is oll'ered o<{nally on the shrine 
 of the < arved <lra<:!;on, and before the livinn; I'epresentation in the 
 
 tree. 
 
 The olfer 
 
 iuu's ai'e such 
 
 th 
 
 le snake does not disdain, hut 
 
 su< h as the fabled draijon |)erhai)s niii-'ht not thank his votaries for. 
 They con-i,-<t of tea and eii'iis. AVlien merchants contract partiicr- 
 !lii[)s, (»r masters and ai)])rentices execute indentures, riiey lirinu- 
 en_u'ros.'-"Ml co])ies ■•' the covenants, and burn them willi inccii>c 
 under the tree. In this way they brin<>j the contents of the articles 
 ?o theii-Hcc of the uod for his approval and blcssiui!,'. A\'lieii the 
 eohhv'.i'ts Ii ive been fully ]>erformed, the parties como a<:;ain to the 
 ])resenco of ''le sacred snake, and with solemn reli<j:ious ceremony 
 declare nuilnul acquittal ami satisfaction. '".Holy water " is con- 
 stantly ke])t in vases, from which it is carried away in ])hials for tlio 
 curiuiij I'f diseases. AVlien a second atlliction tails on a bereaved 
 familv, it indicates tliat the s;rave of the deceased relation i- an 
 
 unlucky om-. I 
 tjii- water, and t 
 this temple we { 
 ,Jm\v is filled wi 
 ,)f every j>attern 
 ;ii,'os with a pra 
 Hild to mourner.- 
 lifviiii; that in 
 material substan 
 Of the \)iu\i 
 It is, with its e\i 
 "Ocean IJanner 
 jtcfiii'e. Spacio 
 
TEMI'LK OF llONAN. 
 
 •jt;i 
 
 uiiliu'ky (tiic. Ill that easi; tlio bones arc cxliumcil and washed in 
 t!ii^ water, and then removed to a more hospitable .sej»;ilchre. Fioni 
 tlii> temple we passed into a loiii^ street in which everv shop-w in- 
 ,1,,\\ is idled with ])ars (»!' bnllion, fans, liats, shot's, and <;arments 
 ,,t ivery pattern cut ti-om fancy-colored ]»a]>er, and ])ut uj) in pack- 
 ai^cs with a pi-ayer impressed on each packet. These parcels are 
 ,(iM to mourners, who l)urn them in incense before the shrine, be- 
 lit\ iui; that in this way they conviv tt» the departed friends the 
 iiKitcrial substances of which thi' paper articles are tlie imitation. 
 
 Of the Ihiddhist temples, the most celebrated is the llonan. 
 li is, witli its extensive monastery, called also the Temple of the 
 •Oit'an IJanner:*" but why the "Ocean I'anner," we cannot con- 
 litlure. Spacious areas here ai'e o(cuj>icd liy "sacred "' pit^s, goats. 
 
 1 " 
 
 
 f 
 
 ;4 
 
 I'.MItAM K li> lilK TKMI'LK OK IIONAN 
 
 14 
 
2(J2 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 shc'C'i), ^^•ii^'lv^"*', ducks, mul f^cese. Not\vitlit*tau(lin^ the reverential 
 (levotidii wliicli tlio monks show to these animals, the idle boys who 
 luUowed us into the temple took a wicked deli«iht in '' stirring Uj)" 
 the fat, holy swine with ]>ike-staves, and niuking them grunt tnr 
 our entertainment. The monks have separate cloisters, and, hesicks 
 these, one spacious and common hall, which, having undorgmii: 
 some special form of consecration, is regarded as an auspiciou.s 
 (•hand)er for the departure of the soul in death. AVHien a brother's 
 last hour is supposed to be near, he is brought to this chandior. 
 possibly with the unintentional eti'ect of hastening his entrance tn 
 anticipated bliss. Not far from this hajipy death-chandjcr is a 
 sanctified and auspicious charnel-house. The body dej)osite<l in 
 this lucky vault remains here in waiting until Buddha, being con- 
 sulted, indicates a lucky day for the ceremony of cremation. V,v 
 yond the charnel-house is a furnace in which the process is con- 
 ducted. The ashes are gathered in a vase, and are deposited with 
 others in a temporary mausoleum. When the fulness of time lias 
 arrived, and an auspicious day has come, the vase is emptied intu 
 a common sarcophagus, and so the funeral-rites are at last ended. 
 
 Leaving the " Ocean Banner," we visited the Temple of the 
 '' Flowery Forest." Its pantheon contains images not only of go(U 
 of whom the Greeks or Romans never dreamed, but of more god,-, 
 than they ever worshipped. Think of five hundred colossal wooden 
 dgures, of all complexions, black, white, and red, with distorted 
 features and limbs, and dressed in pur])Ie, crimson, and gold, sitting' 
 in close order around the walls of a saloon, equal to the hu'gest in 
 the British Museum. Tiiese are tlie guardian genii of China. 
 Each is a deified apostle or saint of the religion. Those tignres 
 were presented to the monastery by one of the emperors, and |)er- 
 hn|)6all were carved by one artist. If he failed to im|)art a natural 
 human expression to any ainong them, it must be admitted in his 
 favor that, in their hideous distortions, no two are alike. We were 
 kindly received by the monks. The abbot, a man of reverend 
 mien, wears pur[)le, a caj) which might be mistaken for a mitre, and 
 a staff in tiie shape of a crozier. As we came in advance of the 
 evening service, they entertained us in the spaci.ais court with 
 
 TI 
 
 (Kiicious tea an 
 vei'sation a va^ 
 tliat the disastci 
 Ann aggression 
 irieat civil war 
 While we were 
 and having the 
 many childi-en. 
 dressed servants 
 \dti\e oH'crings, 
 Tiicy were waiti 
 in incense for th( 
 the women madi 
 and (dieerfnl, see 
 engaged rather ; 
 advances to us, 
 hestttwed on thei 
 At the service 
 licneli, the only t 
 tu.see the ceremc 
 a iotty ceiling. 
 sitting })osture, n 
 locdving to the ie 
 Ihrward, express! 
 right, contempla 
 isii temple dedicj 
 seiits, in a vague 
 Cliurch: one, th 
 entatu)n in tiire 
 tries merely accid 
 "f tlie same inn; 
 revelation? Tli 
 votional intonat 
 licll liidded, to i 
 rliis sound, tlie 
 'orohcads to the 
 
TKMI'LK OF THE "FLOWKIJY FOUEST." 
 
 L>r.a 
 
 (Klicioiis tea and d 'ied fruits. The brethren showed by their con- 
 viTsation n vague knowledge of foreign countries. They feared 
 that the disasters which have befallen France may encourage Kus* 
 , ill II nggression agaiuisi China. They understand something of tlie 
 tjwat civil war in the United States, and rejoice in its results. 
 While we were thus engaged, a group of ladies exquisitely dressed, 
 aiul havitig the least of all feet, came into the court accompanied by 
 many children. This party was followed by a retinue of well- 
 (h'cssed servants, bearing large ornamented paper boxes, tilled with 
 vuti\e oU'erlngs, paper shoes, fans, and hats, as ])efore described. 
 Tlicy were waiting mtil the nudnight hour, to burn these offerings 
 ill incense for the repose and cheer of deceas<>d ancestors. Although 
 the women nuide no mirthful demonstration, they were aninuited 
 and cheerful, seeming to regard tlie ceremony in which they were 
 engaged rather as a festal than a funereal one. They nuide no 
 advances to us, but ehowed much delight with the caresses we 
 bestowed on their pretty children. 
 
 At the service, the monks kindly seated Mr. Seward on a wooden 
 hench, the only thing of the kind in the temple, in a good position 
 t^)l^ce the ceremony. The hall of worship is sixty feet s(piare, with 
 a lolty ceiling. In its centre, a gigantic, triple-carved statue, in a 
 sitting ])osture, representing I'uddha in his three " states " — the face 
 locking to the left, symlxtlic of oblivion, o.* the jxhst ,' that looking 
 t'urward, expressive of activity, the jjresc/it : tlie third, looking to the 
 riirlit, contem])lation, or the future. The " Flowery Forest," then, 
 is a temple dedicated to a religion, older than our own, which ]»re- 
 M'lits, in a vague, misty way, two of the principles of the Christian 
 Church: one, the incarnation of the SuprtMiie; the other. His j)res- 
 ititatlon in three persons, one and indivisible. Are these analo- 
 iries merely accidental coincidences, or are they different outgrowths 
 (if the same innate ideas, or are they shadowy forms of a common 
 revelation? The service consisted in a solemn, measured, and de- 
 vuti(»iial intonation of a lon<; and varied liturgv. Cccasionallv, a 
 hell tiidvled, to indicate a chaiige in the order of the prayers. At 
 tliis sound, the monks prostrated themselves, and brought their 
 foreheads t(» the ground. At other times, they changed tlu'ir ;;os- 
 
 / 1 
 t 
 
 f ;- 
 
 i 
 
 -1 
 
 \ 
 
 ft ' 
 
264 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 tures toward tlic triune iina<jf(>, or walked in solemn proecs.sion 
 around it, keeping time to a muilled drum and gon<j^. ()ire)'iiii;^s 
 are made of wheat, rice, and millet. These heiug deemed nou- 
 consecrated, they were, at the conclusion of the ceremony, convcycil 
 in a tripod, and scattered over the ]iaved court of the tcmjjle, tliut 
 they mi<;ht he gathered hy tlie fowls of the air, and so he saved 
 from human profanation. The temjde contains a very line dai;vtl)ii 
 of white marhle, built over a relic of a former incarnate lUuldha. 
 Its pedestal, a lower story, is ornamented with various allegorical 
 tablets, on which Buddha is represented riding here on a dragon, 
 there on a lion, and elsewliere on other animals. Heathen deities, 
 as we come among them, seem to us to be rather impersonal idiis 
 of ideal conditions of human existence, than spiritual conccptlDiis 
 of a superior order of beings. 
 
 There is a tem])le dedicated to " Longevity.'' The idol, a colos- 
 sal ligure, badly carved in wood, and })ainted very red and vorv 
 brown, represents an obese, contented, and lazy old man. Tliis 
 temple has a monastery of extraordinary character. Instead ot 
 cloisters of masonry, the cells are trees ; and, instead of shaven 
 monks, the brotherhood is a family of storks, which, daily fed by the 
 attendants, live out their long-appointed days, objects of rcvcreiut' 
 and affection. The stork which has the hick to be dedicated to 
 ''Longevity " is a hap]>y bird. Wliat a contrast is his to the casi' 
 of the gold-lish, only bred and fattened, in the ponds of the teinj)li! 
 of the same god, to become the food of the " holy " stork ! 
 
 Whatever doubts there may be about the justice of the Chinese 
 claim to the invention of printing, it is pleasant to record that they 
 have done honor to the art of arts by dedicating to it shrines, 
 tablets, and vases of incense. 
 
 Our survey of the religions institutions closed with a visit to n 
 convent of Buddhist nuns, devoted to the care of the sick. The 
 superior and the sisterhood received us kindly. Although illiterate, 
 they are industrious, tidy, gentle, and prepossessing. They slnnvod 
 us not only the meagre hospital wards, but their own very hunihle 
 cells. After all, cdiarity is an essential element of every religion, 
 and woman is its truest minister throughout the worhl. 
 
CHAPTER XVI 
 
 CANTON ( Vonlin ucd ). 
 
 A Cliincsc Villa. — The Ilall of Ancestors. — A ('hiiicse Sciiool-Room. — Another Villa. — 
 An Oiiiimi-Den. — Kxtcnt of Opitim-Sitiokinjr. — The Chinese Chronometer. — The 
 Street of MalefaetoTd. — i'he Place ot Execution. — A City of the Dead. — Canton 
 at Night. 
 
 Canton, Dcccinhcr ?Mh, — Tliis morning, witliout previous invi- 
 tation or notice, onr reverend guide ushered us into tlie villa of a 
 Chinese gentlonmn, Poon-ting-gua. It covers several acres, en- 
 closed with a solid granite wall. Chinese ladies with their children 
 received us graciously. The mansion has a spacious theatre, taste- 
 t'ully uiranged, for [irivate entertainments, many pretty houdoirs, 
 Mild a spacious banqueting-iiall. After this, we visited the still 
 more aml)itious dwelling of the mandarin Lee, now exercising the 
 office of Taou-tai in the province of Cln'n-Kiang. This residence 
 contains a noble Hall of Ancest<>rs, which, although it opens on 
 one side to the sky. resembles very much the old Ileprc tentative 
 Hall in the Capitol at Washington. The Ancestral Hall is the 
 chapel used for daily family worship of the gods, as well as of the 
 ancestors. The hall is pu.ely Confucian in idea. A shrine in the 
 centre supports a tablet on which the names of the ancestors are 
 inscribed. Large crimson banners are suspended from the walls, 
 which contain, in embroidery, their likenesses, as well as those of 
 the family, with heraldic insignia or emblems. The Ancestral 
 Hall, moreover, is the judgment-chand)er or tribunal in which 
 taniily courts are held. At these courts all births are recorded, 
 
 ■mi. 
 
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 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
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 40 
 
 11-25 11.4 
 
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 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 Corporation 
 
 33 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, NY. 14580 
 
 (716) 872-4503 
 
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266 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 marriage-contracts celebrated, and all disputes are adjusted. In 
 anticipation of his last lionr, the head of the house is brought to the 
 Ancestral Hall to die. expecting an unobstructed passage thence 
 
 POON-TINO-OUA'S VILLA. 
 
 to the realms above. After his death, his will is published in tlie 
 same chamber. This hall is brilliantly furnished with European 
 lamps, clocks, and mirrors. On the present occasion, the altar or 
 tablet was graced with a porcelain salver, on which rested a cold 
 roast-pig, weighing fifteen or twenty pounds. The dish was flanked 
 with conserves, cakes, and flowers. A daughter of the house, mar- 
 ried three days ago, comes ir, j^rocession to-day, to pay her parting- 
 visit to her family, and these were the ofitrings to ancestors ])ro- 
 vided for the celebration of this important domestic event. At tlic 
 conclusion of the ceremony, in such cases, the oblations are distrib- 
 uted among the servants of the family. 
 
CHINESE SCHOOL-ROOM. 
 
 267 
 
 "We were particularly interested in the school-room, where the 
 boys are educated ; the girls are not educated at all. With its 
 arrangement of tables, desks, black-board, books, and slates, the 
 apartment might be mistaken for a school-room at home. All the 
 pupils read the lessons of every sort aloud, and all at once, and 
 commit them to memory. The pedagogue differs but little, except 
 in dress, from the school-master the world over. The master in this 
 present school is an ingenuous as well as a spirited man. The 
 instrument of his discipline laid on his desk, and he did not hesi- 
 tate to admit that he frequently employs it, belie Ang probably in 
 Solomon's instruction, "he that spareth his rod, hateth his son." 
 The Chinese boys have all the natural manner and modesty of well- 
 bred children. One bright-eyed little lad of eight years, with great 
 reverence, asked Mr. Seward's " honorable age." 
 
 We were received by another family, in a very spacious villa 
 near the Ilonan. We noticed, with some surprise, here, the it/t- 
 pluvium, rendered so famous by the descriptions of Pompeii. Is it 
 likely that the Chinese have preserved a feature of v iUa architecture 
 which the AVestern nations have lost ? The proprietor and the ladies 
 of his family conducted us through their sumptuous abode, with 
 perfect refinement of manner, betraying not the least shyness or 
 curiosity. 
 
 The tea-house in Canton holds the place of the ale-house, cafe, 
 or restaurant, in European cities. Rich and poor promiscuously 
 gather there, and are served without respect of persons. 
 
 In returning from the villa, we opened a narrow door and made 
 our way through a dark passage to a suite of small rooms, faintly 
 liglited from the roof. The seclusion, darkness, and silence of the 
 place, indicated that something furtive was going on there. On 
 either side of a long chamber was a dais divided into sections, in 
 each section two men reclining vis-d-vis — between them a minia- 
 ture table six inches high. We were in an opium-den, and these 
 l^ersons Avcre the victims. Before each of the smokers, on the 
 table, rested a pipe, a tiny opium-pot, and a burning lamp. Here, 
 as in the tea-house, there is no respect of rank or wealth. The 
 poor and the rich lie down together. Each assists the other in the 
 
 
 It 
 
 i 
 
 a'^ 
 
208 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCniN CniNA. 
 
 delicate task of ignitino^ the opium, and filling the bowl of the pipo. 
 "VVe spoke to two or three of the smokers, who were only at tlie 
 beginning of the siesta, and received from them respectful and 
 •rentlc answers. We tried in vain to rouse others to consciousness, 
 who were in the stage of blissful revery, although their eyes were 
 
 OI'IIIM-BMOKEKS. 
 
 open, and they were sadly smiling. When the smoker recovers 
 from the inebriation, if he has sufficient strength he repairs liome; 
 otherwise, he is removed to another apartment, and remains tliore 
 perhaps twenty-four hours, recovering strength to depart. AVas it 
 
OPIUM-SMOKING. 
 
 2C0 
 
 an imagination of ours tliat the keeper of 'diis hell wore a base and 
 sinister look as he stood behind his counter in a dark closet, sur- 
 rounded by packages of the pernicious drug, Avhieh he weighed out 
 to his customers a pennyweight of opium against a pennyweight 
 of silver ? 
 
 The books we have read at home, and the discussions we have 
 heard here as well as there, have prepared us to see the disastrous 
 eficct VI upium-smoking on every side in China. The denunciation 
 of the practice Is justified by all-sufficient proof that it is destructive 
 of physical and intellectual energy. Statistics show a vast increase 
 of the consumption of the drug, since its free importation has been 
 allowed. The Chinese Government has given its sanction to the 
 wide-spread denunciation by its persistent and earnest opposition 
 to the opium-trade. We are agreeably disappointed, however, by 
 the absence of evidence of the evil fruits of the practice which we 
 had anticipated. Except in this den where we purposely went to 
 seek the vice and its victims, we have not met, in any part of the 
 country, a person of either sex, or of any age, whose appearance, 
 conversation or conduct, indicated an excessive indulgence. Euro- 
 peans and Americans here agree in representing the practice as 
 wide-spread and pernicious, but, when interrogated concerning 
 their observation, they assure you that they know of a coolie, a 
 house-servant, a mechanic, a clerk, perhaps a trader, who has 
 become inefficient or unreliable by the indulgence. But the best- 
 informed persons agree that cases of this kind are neither more 
 frequent nor more extensive than those of habitual alcoholic intem- 
 perance in the United States. Moreover, we are inclined to think 
 that the cost of the drug, when balanced against the low wages of 
 labor, lifts the abuse beyond the reach of the working-classes. 
 
 In the matter of the regulation of time, the Chinese do not keep 
 lip with "Western science. There is a tower here devoted to that 
 purpose. Each hour is announced in a printed placard posted on 
 the outer wall. The chronometer, however, which is used in the 
 tower, is a water-clock, the clumsy clcjm/dra of ancient Greece. 
 
 A branch staircase from the Time-Tower brought us to the 
 government printing-office, which publishes all official documents, 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 €. t 
 
 »5!. 
 ft 
 
 i a 
 
 
270 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 including a copy of the Peking Gazette. None of our modcM'ii 
 ira])rovements are used. The carving of the wooden type, the 
 spreading of the India-ink over them, the taking of the impression, 
 all arc done by hand. 
 
 The Chinese Government is based on two fictions : first, that 
 the emperor is the Son of Heaven ; second, tha*- he is the parent of 
 the Chinese people. In harmony with these principles, loyalty t(j 
 the state is inculcated not only as a religious but as a filial duty. 
 But all sentimental fictions are liable to abuse, equally in politics 
 and religion. The code of Draco was not more cruel than the 
 parental discipline of the Chinese empire. Passing by the palace 
 of the Taou-tai, with its ostentatious imperial banners, we turned a 
 sharp corner, and entered a long, narrow, cheerless street. Here, 
 no gay sign-boards or banners relieved the night. The "hops are 
 sombre, and there are few travellers. It is the nialefact jr roud— 
 the street through which the condemned convicts pass, fro.n the 
 palace to the place of execution. It was almost night when mc 
 were admitted, under a strong but low gateway, to a close area a 
 hundred feet long, scarcely more than twenty feet wide ; on one 
 side low stone-buildings ; on the other a high blind wall ; a walk 
 paved with large flat stones in the middle of the court. A potter 
 \vas noiselessly at work shaping vessels, some to be used for re- 
 ceiving the blood, others the hands and feet, and others the heads 
 of the victims. Sometimes only a single execution takes place, but 
 usually short delays are made for the convenience of bringing sev- 
 eral executions together. They vary in number from two to fifty, 
 and, in times of political disturbance or flagrant piracy, fifty and 
 even a hundred executions take place at once. Dr. Grey, avIio 
 has studied Chinese history carefully, is of opinion that no field of 
 battle ancient or modern has witnessed so much violent destruction 
 of human life as this Aceldama. The customary form is decapita- 
 tion. When the condemned come within the gate, they march up 
 the paved walk and take their places, kneeling inward on either 
 side. An imperial oflicer at the upper end of the court reads, in a 
 distinct voice, a rescript of their names, crimes, and sentences. A 
 practised executioner, with a long sword which he wields with both 
 
THE CITY OF THE DEAD. 
 
 2T1 
 
 hands, proceeds dovrn the line. The culprits stretching their necks 
 forward, the executioner, swinging the instniment in continued 
 circles, completely severs a heac' at every blow. The heads fall 
 into vases tilled with lime ; nevertheless the pavement is ])esmeared 
 with blood, and the effluvia rising from this horrible place taint 
 the atmosphere of the most distant parts of the city. We saw 
 crosses leaning ag.iinst the wall, prepared for inflicting punishment 
 in that form, and many baskets, each of which contained a head 
 ready to be transported to the city gates, and to distant parts of the 
 empire. 
 
 The scene we next visited is one which, although sad and 
 solemn, is touching and beautiful. This is an extensive plain, 
 ornamented with gardens and lakes, fragrant Avith flowers, and 
 musical Math the songs of birds. It is the temporary resting-place 
 of the dead while awaiting — a day or many days, a month or many 
 months, a year or many years — an auspicious tima and place for 
 final interment. This city of the dead is divided into blocks, and 
 traversed by rectilinear paved streets. Instead of dwellings, the 
 squares are covered with charnel-houses, and those are already 
 numbered by thousands. They are built of stone, and kept with 
 perfect cleanliness and order. The charnel-houses, one story high, 
 are divided into two apartments — the front, a reception-hall with 
 tablets and an altar, before which a lamp continually burns, and on 
 which offerings of tea, fruit, and flowers are daily renewed. This 
 room is occupied by the relations of the deceased, generally sons or 
 daughters, who console the dead not only by day, but through the 
 long watches of the night. A couch or divan along the wall serves 
 for their repose. In the inner chamber rest the unburicd, or the 
 exhumed remains enclosed in a costly carved coffin, covered with 
 a magnificent purple or scarlet pall. Around the coffin are figures 
 or stntues, either carved, or of porcelain, which, gayly dressed and 
 bearings fons or cups, are ministering to the wants of the sleeping 
 dead. When a stranger dies in Canton, information is conveyed 
 to his friends, however distant. His remains rest here until prep- 
 arations for his interment have been made, in the part of the em- 
 pire where he lived. The " city of the dead," like our cemeteries, 
 
 1 
 
 ■4- 
 
 3. 
 
 l4 
 
 IE 
 
272 
 
 JAPAN. CHINA, AND COCITTN CITTNA. 
 
 is under the care of an association, and its expenses are defrayed 
 by charges regulated by tariff 
 
 It "vvas quite nine o'clock, a star-lit night, when we emo.-fjcd 
 from this silent, mysterious place — the only one we have ever soon 
 in ^vhicll, thougli it is devoted to the dead, cheei-fulness and hope 
 prevail over gloom and despondency. We passed through a scries 
 of graves which surround it, starting a thousand storks, which kept 
 watch and ward over the cemetery. These birds have a peculiar 
 adaptation to sacred places. They rest always on one leg, the head 
 turned backward under the wing. Their utterances are made l)v 
 clapping their mandibles together like a ])air of castanets. Our 
 coolies bore burning lamps. They carried us very quickly across a 
 rude, uninhabited plain, which, by reason of its vicinity to the city. 
 we expected to find a scene of disorder and peril. Our experience 
 is that neither assassin nor robber of any kind, by night or by day, 
 awaits the sojourner in Canton. We occasionally stopped to inquire 
 the significance of a candle burning in the grass near the roadside, 
 and before which lay offerings of tea, wheat, fruit, or millet. The 
 explanation was, that some person, passing the place, had stumbled 
 or met with other accident, the mischievous work of some discon- 
 tented spirit or demon. The light and the offerings are designed 
 to propitiate him. 
 
 The night aspect of Canton is one of qriie^-. and peace. All 
 shops, stores, and manufactories, are closely shut ; only here and 
 there a paper lantern dangles from the caves, before the house of a 
 mandarin or a wealthv denizen. The tread of the foot-passenii-er is 
 only occasionally heard, and there are no processions, groups, or 
 crowds. Light streams through the crevices of the dwellings, and 
 often the clink of the anvil and the sound of the hammer indicate 
 that the inhabitants have only withdrawn from the operations of 
 sale in which they were engaged during the day, to manufacture 
 new articles to sell to-morrow. Rarely, very rarely, one may hear 
 the mellow tones of a flute, but never in any part of the city doe? 
 there arise the sound of debauch or revelry. A gentle rap by onr 
 conductor brought to the postern the keepei' of each of the numer- 
 ous gates through which we had to pass. A kind word assured us 
 
CHINESE TOMBS. 
 
 2Ta 
 
 that ho was prcparod for our coming, and was interested for our 
 safety. Moving on so quietly in our chairs, we l:ad fallen into 
 tlie dreamy state of contemplation ascribed to Buddha, when the 
 lust of the cit^ -gates, the gate of '" Everlasting Peace," lifted its 
 head and allowed us to pass under the door of hospitable " Kee- 
 Chung." 
 
 >assen<^-er is 
 
 OUINESK TOUBA. 
 
 
 •1 
 
 * 
 
 I 
 
 3 
 
 tr M 
 
 1^ 
 
 10. 
 
 
Chincfio Emigratic 
 (/hina. — A Oc 
 Mr. Howard's 
 pccts of Chill 
 
 IIong-Kon 
 vova<>;c, besicl 
 of Macao. S 
 and fifty of tli 
 the others, vc 
 Kong for San 
 States goes e 
 through the ] 
 American coi 
 from the same 
 The Laws of tl 
 and a certific 
 and made on 
 preventing al 
 United States 
 with the emi 
 tion prevailing 
 the African si 
 by fraud and I 
 
CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 AT UONO-KONQ AGAIN. 
 
 Cbincso Kmigration to the United Stateti. — The CiuUon f'ishcrics. — American Houses in 
 Ciiina. — A Combination of (iunibleis. — A Dinner at the United States Consulate. — 
 Mr. Seward's Speech. — Oriental and Eastern Civilization. — Policy of China. — Pros- 
 pects of China. 
 
 IIong-Kong^ January 1, 1871. — The Kin-San, on her return- 
 voyage, besides ourselves, had three cabin-] )assengers, all niercliants 
 of Macao. She had four hundred in the steera<i^e : one hundred 
 and fifty of tliem Chinese traders between Canton and llon<^-Kong; 
 the others, voluntary Chinese emigrants going to ship at Ilong- 
 Kong for San Francisco. The Chinese emigration to the United 
 States goes exclusively from the province of Quan-Tong (Canton) 
 tlu'ongh the port of Canton. The Chinese emigration to other 
 American countries, the West Indies, and South America, goes 
 from the same province, but through the Portuguese port of Macao. 
 The laws of the United States, which require consular examination 
 and a certificate in each case that the emigration is voluntary, 
 and made on sufficient guarantee, have proved entirely effective in 
 preventing abduction, fraud, and violence. The emigrant to the 
 United States is contented and cheerful. It is not so, however, 
 with the emigrant who embarks at Macao. The system of abduc- 
 tion prevailing there is an abomination scarcely less execrable than 
 the African slave-trade. The emigrants are promiscuously taken 
 by fraud and force; ignorant of their destination, and without sccu- 
 
 
 
 < 
 
 1 
 
 
 '^ 
 
 & 
 C 
 
 
270 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COUIIIN CHINA. 
 
 rity for tlieir labor or tlicir freodoin, tliey are luirried on board sail 
 ing-craft. These vessels are built in the United States, and tlav 
 appear at Macao under the United States flag, promising to eonvoy 
 the emigrants to our country. So soon as they have cleared the 
 port, they hoist the colors of Peru, San Salvador, or Fome other 
 Spanish-American state. It is when this fraud is discovered that 
 scenes of mutiny and murder occur, of which we have such frequent 
 and frightful accounts. It shall not be our fault if, in the cause o\' 
 humanity, the United States Government is not informed of this 
 great outrage against our national honor. 
 
 Chinese versatility has a fine illustration in the Canton fisheries. 
 On either side of our steamer, as we came down the river, was a 
 tub or cistern holding five hundred gallons of water. The water 
 contained great quantities of living fish produced in ponds in 
 the vicinity of Canton. Arriving at tlie wharf here, a sluice was 
 opened at the bottom of each cistern, and the fish, rushing out with 
 the rapid current, dropped into smaller tubs, and were conveyed 
 either to market, or to sliips going to sea. 
 
 January, 2d. — We are pleased witli the reassurance we receive 
 here from home, that a semi-monthly line of steamers is to be 
 established by the Pacific Mail Steamship Company. This line 
 is a development of enterprise which, though noiseless, is extend- 
 ing the American name and influence in the East. 
 
 The American houses in China are as follows : 
 
 Russell & Company, with establishments at Shanghai, Hong-Kong, Canton, 
 Foo-Choo, Kiu-Kiang, Ilan-Kow, and Tien-Tsin. 
 
 Augustine Heard & Company, at Shanghai, Hong-Kong, Canton, and Foo-Clioo. 
 Oliphant & Company, at Shanghai, Hong-Kong, Canton, and Foo-Clioo. 
 Bull, Pardon & Company, at Shanghai, Hong-Kong, Canton, and Foo-Choo. 
 Smith, Archer, & Company, at Shanghai, Hong-Kong, and Canton. 
 Silas E. Burrows & Company, at Hong-Kong. 
 E. J. Sage & Company, at Hong-Kong. 
 H. Fogg & Company, at Shangliai. 
 A. C. Farnhara & Company, at Shanghai. 
 
 To all these houses our grateful acknowlegments — to Russell 
 
A SPEECH BY MIJ. SEWARD. 
 
 277 
 
 it Cuin[)any, tbo most full, bocauso they have claimed us as their 
 cruests, ill their several agencies throughout the enipiro. 
 
 1 long-Kong has a social grievance unknown in the United 
 States, except in the new States and Territories — a villanoua combi- 
 mition of gamblers, like the pests of the same kind whose atrocities 
 stain the history of Vicksburg and San P'rancisco. The judicial 
 officers confess themselves powerless to suppress these criminals. 
 
 To-day the United States consul, Mr. Bailey, entertained Mr. 
 Se\vard, with the large party gathered to meet him, at the considate. 
 To Mr. Bailey's speech of welcome, Mr. Seward replied as follows : 
 
 "The questions which engaged the American people, in the 
 period to which you have so kindly referred, were, the elimination 
 of slavery from the United States, and the saving of the republic 
 from dissolution. Both these questions were at last decided for the 
 right, in a fearful civil war. I think there is not now living, on 
 this round earth, a man who, even though he was then a sympa- 
 thizer with the rebellion, now regrets that beneiicent adjustment. 
 
 "Our distinguished statesman, Daniel "Webster, foresaw only 
 the struggle. His utmost confidence in the happy end was in the 
 expression of his earnest hope that his dying eyes might not close 
 on a dismembered, a disunited, a belligerent republic. On us, how- 
 ever, who have survived both him and the convulsion, there opens 
 a bright and glorious prospect — it is the spread of republican insti- 
 tutions over the whole American Continent, involving by absolute 
 necessity a regeneration of civilization in the East. The United 
 States have assumed the lead in this great work, happily with the 
 free consent and approbation of all the European nations. 
 
 " The first Emperor of the French, copying from Julius Ctesar, 
 introduced, in our time, the military empire, as an agency for con- 
 quest. The second emperor dedicated it to peace and progress. 
 Fortunately for mankind, the innovation has failed for both pur- 
 poses. The world is coming to realize, on the contrary, that ' the 
 republic,^ that is to say, not the republic of former ages, but the 
 niodern republic of our own experience, is always favorable to pros- 
 perity and progress, and is everywhere ' on earth peace, good-will 
 toward men.' 
 
 19 
 
 -■t 
 
 mm-' 
 
278 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 " I liftVG been long engaged stndying tlic great problem of mod- 
 ern civilization. In doing so, I bave travelled largely on tbe Kortli 
 Ajncrican Continent, and, witli tbe same object, I am now observini; 
 Asiatic conntries. In tbis connection, I may make two or tliree 
 observations, witbout disloyalty to my own conntry, or to China 
 and witbout offence to any foreign nation represented bcre. I do 
 not nndervalue missionary labors in tbe East, but tbe (^bristiim 
 religion, for its acceptance, involves some intellectiinl and social ad- 
 vancement wbicb can only be effected tbrougb international com- 
 merce. I look, tbcrefore, cbietly to comniorce for tbe regeneration 
 of Cbina — tliat commerce to come across tbe American Continent 
 and tbo Pacifi' Ocean. I lament to find, in every part of China 
 that I visit, despondency concerning tliat commerce, wbicli, I am 
 sure, is not entertained in tbe United States, or in any otber of the 
 Western nations. I think that despondency witbout foundation. 
 On tbe otber band, a foreign commerce, wbicli penetrates the 
 nortliern, tbe central, and tbe soutbern regions of Cbina, is firndv 
 established and secured. Not one of tbe footholds which have been 
 gained can ever be lost. The continuance and increase of tliat 
 commerce are guaranteed by the material, moral, social, a id i>oliti- 
 cal necessities of both continents. 
 
 " Say what men may, buman progress is compelled by the laws 
 of Providence. Obstacles, indeed, must occur, and will nmltiidy 
 resistance lierc, and discussions and jealousies in the West ; but 
 there is a subtle moral opinion wbicb pervades mankind, before 
 which, sooner or later, all such obstacles disappear. There is no 
 assignable measure to the future expansions of tbis intercontinental 
 and i*(?generating commerce. Altbougb its movements seem to us 
 very slow, yet there are abundant evidences that it is neither dying 
 out nor retrograding. The daily increasing emigration from south- 
 ern Cbina to America, and to the Malay Peninsula, and the Oriental 
 Archipelago, is a guarantee of its continuance. That emigration 
 ■works beneficially in three ways : tbe navigation employed in it 
 sustains commerce; it relieves an overcrowded population of sur- 
 plus labor; returning emigrants bring back not only wealth, Imt 
 arts, knowledge, and morals, to renovate their native country. Let 
 
 my memorv 
 
SPEECH CONTINUED. 
 
 279 
 
 it be oui* task, tliereforc, to stimulate tins emigration. It is essen- 
 tial to the growth of international commerce, that the "Western 
 states practise equal justice toward China. True commerce involves 
 vocipi'ocity, not exclusive gain on either side, and it flourishes 
 just in proportion to the good laith an^ . equality with which it is 
 coiidncted. 
 
 "Six or seven years ago, the Western nations, relinquishing 
 imli'> idual designs of aggrandizement or advantage in Jhina, were 
 represented hy enlightened men, among whom were the late Mr. 
 Burlingame, Sir Frederick Bruce, and M. Berthemy. They agreed 
 in recommending to their several states the policy of bringing China 
 into equal political relations with all the Western states. The 
 ' Burlingame ' treaty \t as the fruit *f these counsels. They have 
 onlv to be pursued in good faith, to work the best results. N^o one 
 now doubts of the renovation of Japan ; bat China, with its four 
 hundred millions, exhibits more signs of progress to-day than Japan, 
 with its tliirty or forty millions, did twenty years ago. I am often 
 asked : ' But what of this ancient Chinese Imperial Government, its 
 extortions, its timidity, its efteteness, and of this national prejudice, 
 the fruit of thousands of years of isolation ? ' I answer : ' I do not 
 know — no one knows. I only know that imbecility and efteteness 
 always give way before vigor and energy, and that dotage and 
 |irejudice must give way to truth, justice, and reason. I know not 
 what political changes may occur hero, but, on the other hand, I 
 know it is an error to suppose that revolutions, with wliatever de- 
 sign they are inaugurated, retard human progress.' I used all the 
 inrtuonce I had to prevent the late revolution in Japan, because I 
 thonglit it was a retrograde movement ; I little dreamed that the 
 restored I^Iikado would excel the dethroned Tvcoon in emulating 
 Western civihzation. 
 
 " ihit I must not enlarge. Gentlemen, you have dedicated 
 vonr fortunes and vour lives to the regeneration of (Miina. I 
 ])ray God that you may individually enjoy the rich rewards of 
 that devotion 1 
 
 " This day, with its pleasing incidents, will be forever fresh in 
 my nieniorv.'' 
 
 
 
 
280 
 
 JAPAN, CniXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 January 4:th, — The Chinese, though not of the Caucasian 
 race, have all its political, moral, and social capabilities. Lon^ 
 ago, they reached a higher plane of civilization than most of 
 the European states attained until a much later period. The 
 Western nations have since risen above that plane. The whole 
 world is anxiously inquiring whether China is to retrieve the ad- 
 vantages she has lost, and if she is to come within the family of 
 modern civilized states. Mr. Burlingame's sanguine temperament 
 and charitable disposition led him to form too favorable an opinio n 
 of the present condition of China. In his anxiety to secure a more 
 liberal policy on the part of the Western nations toward the ancient 
 empire, he gave us to understand, especially in his speeches, that, 
 while China has much to learn from the Western nations, she is not 
 without some peculiar institutions which they may advantageonslv 
 adopt. This is not quite true. Although China is far from beinir 
 a barbarous state, yet every system and institution there is interior 
 to its corresponding one in the West. Whether it be the abstract 
 sciences, such as philosophy and psychology, or whether it be the 
 practical forms of natural science, astronomy, geology, geography, 
 natural history, and chemistry, or the concrete ideas of govern- 
 ment and laws, morals and manners ; whether it be in the aesthetic 
 arts or mechanics, every thing in China is effete. Chinese cdnca- 
 tion rejects science ; Chinese industry proscribes invention ; Chi- 
 nese morals appeal nou to conscience, but to convenience; Chinese 
 architecture and navigation eschew all improvements ; Chinese 
 government maintains itself by extortion and terror ; Chinese reli- 
 gion is materialistic — not even mystic, much less spiritual. If we 
 ask hoAV this inferiority has come about, among a people who have 
 achieved so much in the past, and have capacities for greater acliieve- 
 ment in the future, we must conclude that, owing to some error in 
 their ancient social system, the faculty of invention has been ar- 
 rested in its exercise and impaired. 
 
 China first became known to the Western world by the discov- 
 eries of Marco Polo in the thirteenth century. At that period and 
 until after the explorations of Vasco de Gama, China appears to 
 have been not comparatively great, prosperous, and enlightened, 
 
COXDITIOX OF CHINA. 
 
 281 
 
 but absolutely so. An empire extending from tne snows of Siberia 
 to the tropics, and from the Pacific to the mountain sources of the 
 (jreat rivers of Continental Asia, its population constituted one- 
 fourth of the human race. Diversified climate and soil alibrded all 
 the resources of public and private wealth. Science and art devel- 
 oped those resources. Thus, when European nations came upon 
 the shores of China, in the sixteenth century, they found the 
 empire independent and self-sustaining. The Mantchoos on the 
 north had invaded the empire and substituted a Tartar dynasty 
 at Peking for a native dynasty at Nanking, but the concpierors 
 and the conquered were still Chinese, and the change was a revolu- 
 tion and not a subjugation. China having thus attained all the 
 objects of national life, came to indulge a sentiment of supercilious 
 pride, under the influence of which she isolated herself from all 
 other nations. Her government from its earliest period was in the 
 hands of a scholastic and pedantic class, a class M-hich elsewhere 
 has been found incapable of practical rule. Since the isolation 
 took phxce, that class has effectively exercised all the powers of the 
 state, in repressing inquiry and stifling invention, through fear 
 that chaugc in any direction would result in their own overthrow. 
 The long isolation of the empire, and the extirpation of native in- 
 vention, have ended in reversing the position of China, From 
 being self-sustaining and independent, as she was when found by 
 the European states, she has become imbecile, dependent, and help- 
 less. Without military science and art, she is at the mercy of 
 Western n;itions. Without the science of political economy, the 
 Government is incapable of maintaining an adecjuate system of 
 revenue ; and, without the science of AVestern laws and morals, it 
 is equally incapable of maintaining an impartial and eflbc'^'ve ad- 
 ministration of justice. Having refused to adopt W^^stcni arts and 
 sciences, the Government is incapable of establishing and maintain- 
 iiifj a beneficial domestic administration. Insurrections and revo- 
 lutions are therefore unavoidable, nor can the Government repress 
 them without the aid of the Western ])owers. She pays the Euro- 
 pean nations for making the clothing for her people, and the arms 
 with which they must defend themselves. She imports not only 
 
 , ! 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 ft ^. 
 
282 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 the precious metals, but coal and iron, instead of allowing her own 
 mines to be opened. She forbids the employment of steam and 
 animal power in mechanics, and so largely excludes her fabrics 
 from foreijj'n markets. 
 
 Though China Avould now willingly leave all the world alone, 
 other nations cannot atibrd to leave her alone. Great Britain must 
 send her cotton fabrics and iron manufactures. The United IStatcs 
 must send her steam-engines and agricultural implements, and 
 bring away her coolieo. Italy, France, and Belgium, must have 
 her silks, and all the world must have her teas, and send her their 
 religions. All these operations cannot go on without steam-en- 
 gines, stationary as well as marine. Hoe's printing-press, alid the 
 electric telegraph. 
 
 Now for the question of the prospects of China. Before attempt- 
 ing to answer this, it will be best to define intelligently the pres- 
 ent political condition of China. Certainly it is no longer an abso- 
 lutely sovereign and independent empire, nor has it yet become a 
 protectorate of any other euipire. It is, in short, a state under the 
 constant and active surveillance of the Western maritime nations, 
 This surveillance is exercised by their diplomatic representatives, 
 and by their naval forces backed by the menace of military in- 
 tervention. In determining whether this precarious condition of 
 China is likely to continue, and whether its endurance is desirable, 
 it would be well to consider what are the possible alternatives. 
 There arc only three : First, absolute subjugation by some foreign 
 state ; second, the establishment of a protectorate by some foreiiin 
 state ; third, a complete ])opular revolution; o', erthrowing not only 
 the present dynasty, but the present form of government, and 
 establishing one which shall be in harmony with the interests of 
 China and the spirit of the age. The Chinese people, inflated with 
 national pride, and contempt for Western sciences, arts, religions. 
 morals, and manners, are not prepared to accept the latter alterna- 
 tive. The rivalry of the Western nations, with the fluctuations of 
 the balance of their political powers, render it dangerous for any 
 foreign state to assume a protectorate. The second alternative is, 
 therefore, out of the question. We have already expressed the 
 
POLICY OF THE WESTERN POWERS. 
 
 283 
 
 opinion that mankind liave outlived the theory of universal empire, 
 and certainly the absolute subjugation of China by any Western 
 state would be a nearer approach to universal empire than Greek, 
 or Koman, or Corsican, or Cossack, ever dreamed of. The exercise 
 of sovereigTity in China by a national dynasty, under the surveil- 
 lance and protection of the maritime powers, is the condition most 
 favorable to the country and most desirable. The maintenance of it 
 seems practicable so far as it depends upon the consent of the mari- 
 time surveillant powers. But how long the four hundred millions 
 of people within the empire will submit to its continuance is a 
 (juestion which baffles all penetration. The present Government 
 favoi's and does all it can to maintain it. Prince Kung and Wan- 
 Siang are progressive and renovating statesmen, but a year or two 
 hence a new emperor will come 1 o the throne. The literati, no less 
 bigoted now than heretofore, have an unshaken prestige among 
 the people, and, for aught any one can judge, the first decree of the 
 new emperor may be the appointment of a reactionary ministry, 
 with the decapitation of the present advisers of the throne. Let it, 
 then, be the policy of the Western nations to encourage and sustain 
 the sagacious reformers of China, and in dealing with that extraor- 
 dinary people to practise in all things justice, moderation, kind- 
 ness, and sympathy. Of course, it is not to be expected or desired 
 that the foreign surveillance which is now practised will retain its 
 present obnoxious and opp)ressive character. The habit of interven- 
 tion, and the habit of acquiescence in it once fixed, surveillance 
 will assume the forms of protective tutorship. The interests of 
 hutli parties will rerpiire that this tutoi'ship be exercised with leni- 
 ency; gradual amelioration of the political and social cimdition of 
 China will produce mutual sympathy and respect between the pro- 
 tectors and the protected, the instructors and the pupil. Some- 
 thing of this kind has already happened in the relations between 
 the Western states and the Otto-man powers. 
 
 It has been no easy task to set down these hurried reflections 
 in the midst of festivities, only brought to an end by the parting 
 with, so many kind friends. The signal is hoisted, and we go on 
 board the Provence. 
 
 
 .J 
 
 t 
 
I 
 
 CHi\PTER XYIIL 
 
 A GLANCE AT COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 The Steamer Provence. — Island of Hainan. — Our Fellow-rassengers. — The Mouth of the 
 Saigon River. — The City of Saigon. — French Aptitude for Colonization.— I'reiidi 
 Photographs. — The Queen of Cambodia. 
 
 Steamer Provence, South China Sea, January C)th. — "Wearied 
 with our long wanderings over China, which, though interesting, 
 were attended with much fatigue, and wuh the hospitalities wliicli, 
 however delightful, were nevertheless exhf.^isting, we resumed our 
 onward voyage with a feeling of relief. 
 
 "We are now running down the coast of the large and prosper- 
 ous island of Hainan, which is separated from the main-land df 
 China by the Gulf of Tonquin. They speak of aborigines on the 
 island, but, from Avhat we learn of its subdivision into Cliine.<e 
 provinces, and its confessedly great trade, we are inclined to 
 believe that its civilization does not differ materially from that of 
 the provinco of Quan-Tong. 
 
 Our steamer, recently L'Imperatrice, of the " Messagerici^ Ini- 
 periales," is now La Provence, of the " ]\ressagerics Naiionales,'' 
 changes of name wh"ch illustrate the political versatility of ilie 
 French ])eople. The tout ensemUe of ]iassengers nnd crew is 
 scarcely less indicative of social movements .'n the East. 
 
 There are eleven young men, sons of Japanese daimios, travel- 
 ling under the care of a Prussian, who has been their tutor for five 
 years. They arc now going to iinish their studies ; some in Enir- 
 land, some in France, some in Germany — the larger nund)er in the 
 
THE SAIGON RIVER. 
 
 28: 
 
 rnitecl States. It was only when they cmharlced that they changed 
 their native flowing silken dresses, two swords, and wooden shoes, 
 for the Western costume. The tawny lads seem to enjoy the 
 change prodigiously, for they make during the day as many changes 
 of toilet as a Saratoga belle. 
 
 There is, next, an intelligent American merchant of Shanghai, 
 on his way to London, as agent of the Chinese Government, to pur- 
 chase two "American" merchant-steamers, to be built in PJngland, 
 and ?team-engine8 for two " American " ships-of-war, which are 
 now on the stocks at Shanghai. Also a Spanish tobacco-merchant 
 with his family, going from Manila to visit his early home in Cata- 
 lonia. 
 
 Two young Americans, just out of Harvard, are making the 
 tonr around the world. They are now going to Bangkok, a jour- 
 ney which we had purposed making, but were obliged to forego. 
 On reaching Saigon, tliey intend crossing the mountains of Cam- 
 bodia to Siam by elephant-train. 
 
 Jamiary ^Uh. — When you are travelling in a foreign country by 
 road or river, how provoking it is to pass a capital, historic battle- 
 tiekl, ancient university, cathedral, or ruined castle, on the right 
 and on the left, without stopping to examine them ! It is just so 
 in going around the world. We are now passing the empire of 
 Anam, and entering the Saigon Hiver, only eight degrees north of 
 the equator. Fahrenheit 83°. The river- water is clear and pure. 
 xV white light-house, built by the French, rises above the forest on 
 the high northern promontory ; the southern bank is a plain cov- 
 ered with cocoa-nut groves. The luxuriant beauty of the scene is 
 bewildering. While we write, the ocean is left behind us, and the 
 broad, dark river shrinks within the width of forty rods. The 
 banks are covered witli impenetrable jungle of mangoes, bananas, 
 bamboos, and a thousand creepers twisting their shrubbery into nil 
 manner of entanglement, and covering it with flowers. We are 
 told that the wild-boar takoo refuge here from the tiger on the 
 uplands, and we see parrots rearing their chattering broods, while 
 the monkeys hold perpetual revel. 
 
 
 
1 
 
 Tl 
 
 le rn 
 
 gated cliiet 
 bamboo siii 
 river, and ^ 
 
 all 
 
 give p 
 
 il: 
 
 inouiituiiis 
 
 Saigon, 
 that we mil 
 
 ^ Long bet'or 
 made ns in 
 birds, and 1 
 name of Ui 
 tlioless, we 
 that the Gi 
 some friend 
 lonely place 
 
 for 
 
 us. 
 
 The 
 
 con 
 
 bargained fc 
 one dollar a 
 each drawn 
 passengers ( 
 
 our travels i 
 
 Saigon 
 thousand in 
 from those a 
 This is a nin 
 ilate in the '. 
 exclusive ol 
 plants, but 
 of decl 
 
 in Eur 
 
 ninii 
 
 '0]K'. 
 
 ries. The 
 French rejn 
 monkeys, bi 
 
SAIGOM. 
 
 287 
 
 The river below Saigon lias a serpentine course, and is navi- 
 gated cliietiy by small native vessels, nioviu<^' gracefully under light 
 bamboo sails. The banks rise to greater height as we ascend the 
 river, and variolic kinds of palm grace the diil'erent elevations, until 
 all give place to the eagle-wood and tlie cinnamon on the blue 
 mountains which overlook the lovely valley. 
 
 Saigon, January 8th. — We closed our eyes last night wishing 
 that we might remain foreve>' afloat on the dark water of the Saigon. 
 Long before morning, however, swarms of mosquitoes and gnats 
 made us impatient for the sho"e, where we felt sure that flowers, 
 birds, and butterflies, were awaiting us. The Blue-book bears no 
 name of United States consul at Saigon. From the deck, never- 
 theless, wo espied the United States flag, and learned, on inquiry, 
 that the German who raised it there had left it to the care of 
 gome friendly native keeper. We inquired no further, and in this 
 lonely place, the only one thus far in our voyage, no one inquired 
 for us. 
 
 The commandant of La Provence put us ashore in his gig. AVe 
 bargained for the first two carriages we found there, at the rate of 
 one dollar an hour for each, and in these vehicles, called " garries," 
 each drawn by a rough Chinese pony, and having seats for four 
 passengers (a very close fit), a guide, and a servant, we set out on 
 our travels in Cochin China. 
 
 Saigon is a native city of from sixty thousand to a hundred 
 thousand inhabitants. The European settlement adjoining it diftera 
 from those \ve have seen in Japan and China, only in being French. 
 This is a matter of no special moment, because all foreigners assim- 
 ilate in the East. The population is perhaps two hundred and fifty, 
 exclusive of the garrison. There is a public garden filled with 
 plants, but it wears an air of neglect, in consequence, we think, not 
 of declining trade, but of political insecurity growing out of the war 
 in Europe. All Eastern potentates and nobles maintain menage- 
 ries. The garden at Saigon proclaims itself an appendage to the 
 French rejiublic, by a meagre collection of leopards, tigers, bears, 
 monkeys, birds, and reptiles. The French Government is building 
 
 A 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 4 
 I 
 
 ...» 
 
288 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 a large palace for the residence of the admiral commanding the 
 forces in Easter" >vatcrs. 
 
 The native city consists of two towns, standing on two rivers, 
 distant two miles from each other, and connected by a firm road. 
 
 NATIVE OF SAIGON. 
 
 The population is by no means homogeneous. The merchants and 
 traders are not Cochin Chinese, but chiefly Chinese, and all classes 
 speak, to some extent, the French language. A happy accord 
 seems to exist between them and the French. All shoM- tlic j^lcas- 
 ing impress of French manners. We alighted from oui- vehicles 
 whenever we found a^iv thing noticeable, and invarialdv were 
 waited upon by polite and assiduous attendants. Wc entered niul 
 inspected a Buddhist temple. The bonzes, with great courtesy, 
 shoM'ed us every thing it contained. Whenever we stojiped, re;i, 
 fruit, and sherbet, M'ere ofi'ered us. The smallest payment was 
 thankfully received, and, when we declined, the refreshments M-ere 
 urged upon us without cost. In short, Saigon is the only place we 
 have found thus far, in the wide world, where everybody seemed 
 
FRENCH EMPIRE IN COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 281) 
 
 pleased with us, with themselves, and we had reason to be pleased 
 with everybody. 
 
 The French have a peculiar facility in cilectiuf^ colonial assim- 
 ilation to their national ways and manners. One exi)eriences the 
 same <jfcntle and kind welcome on the banks of the lower St. Law- 
 rence that he finds hero on the banks of the Saigon. It is almost 
 enough to make us wish that the French nation might be more suc- 
 cessful in extending their foreign dominion. The whole field of 
 French empire in Cochin China, which figures so largely in the 
 ambitious nuinifestocs of the Government in Paris, is hardly more 
 than forty miles square. But France, by means of that possession, 
 has acquired a protectorate over the province of Cambodia, which 
 is adjacent, and nominally belongs to the empire of Anam. The 
 S(-vereign of that empire concedes to France this protectorate over 
 Cambodia, in consideration of the French guarantee of the integrity 
 of his empire. This great potentate, like the ostentatious fiddler, 
 has two strings to his bow ; for, while ho thus enjoys this alliance 
 with France, he at the same time, as titular vassal, claims protec- 
 tion from the Emperor of China. It would be long to tell how, 
 after European discoveries in the East Indies, France energeti- 
 cally attempted to secure positions advantageous for trade and con- 
 quest in Madagascar, Ceylon, and Bengal ; how unsuccessful and 
 vain those attempts were, until the great Colbert found in the 
 ambitious Louis XIV. a monarch wise enough to accept the 
 project of a French East India Company; how successfully that 
 company established factories at Mauritius, at Surat, and Pondi- 
 chery, and other places in India. It would be sad to tell how, in 
 the great war in which France lost nearly all her American posses- 
 sions, she also lost nearly all her acquisitions in the East ; how 
 the French Jesuit missionaries in Cochin China cunningly secured 
 from the native emperor the concession of Saigon to Louis XVI. ; 
 how the French nation exulted in a g.tin of this position in the 
 rear of Ilindostan, from which they might hope to assail and over- 
 throw British dominion c i the Asiatic Continent ; how this ambi- 
 tion of France died, with all ambition of colonial aggrandizement, 
 in the great Revolution of nmety-three ', how that ambition, in 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 t 
 
 e' 
 
 ■A 
 
 % 
 
 c 
 
200 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 regard to the East, revived in 1801,111 the period of the Second 
 Empire, and Admiral Charnor enforced the c(mcessi(Hi which had 
 so h)n<r before been made to Lonis XVI. 
 
 Saigon is hy no means vahieless as Ji seat of commerce. Tlio 
 earth has no more fertile fields than those of Cochin China. Anionic 
 its ]>rodncts arc Inxuries the most desired hy civiliz(.>d nations. 
 AVhile rice is an ahiindant staple, Sai<;(m experts the j!;um of lac- 
 qner, cinnamon, and many useful and jn-ecious woods. It is nut, 
 
 abtibam's house at baioon. 
 
 however, chiefly for local trade that France values Saigon. It is a 
 convenient station for commercial and postal steam-lines, hy which 
 she has expected to maintain her prestige as a maritime power of 
 the first rank. Her experience has demonstrated the truth of two 
 political axioms : First, that the possession of extensive foreign col- 
 onies adds immeasurably to the credit and prestige of a nation ; 
 secondly, that a nation which cannot maintain peace at home, can- 
 not permanently hold foreign possessions. 
 
 As our habit is, we take away from Saigon many photographic 
 
QUEEN OF CAMIJODIA. 
 
 ii'.H 
 
 illustrations of niiumors, dross, and sfonory. They arc Froncli, 
 ;iiul iidiiiiriibly oxeciitcd. Wu are puzzled, however, in our ctlbrts 
 to (Icterniine the truthfulness of one of them, notwithstandiuuf.itrt 
 iitliciMi vorlHcation. It represents the Queen of ('and)odia, ^^/vy^'yt'c 
 (.f the French Enii)ire, with naked feet and aidcles, encircled by 
 (dstly p)ld hani!;les and jewels, while her head is covered with a 
 Parisian bonnet of the year 1S(12, presented to her, with other 
 articles of European fashion, by the Freneh emperor. 
 
 ■^^y///y(,y//;/'. 
 
 '.W/M//I-I 
 
 QUEEN OF CAMBODIA.' 
 
 ML % 
 
THE EA 
 
PART III. 
 
 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, STRAITS OF 
 MALACCA, AND CEYLON. 
 
 I 
 
 v 
 
 i- 
 
 I 
 
 i m 
 
 ft 
 
THE CHINA 
 
 Our Distance frorr 
 from Boston. 
 —A Dutch S 
 Sumatra.— TI 
 
 China Sei 
 home, we rec 
 average of on 
 as if we had I 
 diir riglit the 
 on our left, .at 
 liiids, the relic 
 enjoying calm 
 
 Sh}(/aj)o?v, 
 night! StiHii 
 penance for in 
 
 At sunri.sc 
 Ixwrd, with ]\ 
 Tlioy drove ii 
 Australian h:v 
 us, then to M\ 
 taking care of 
 from home, o 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 THE CHINA SEA, SmGAPORE, AND THE STRAITS OF SUNDA. 
 
 Our Distance from Home. — Calm Seas and Temperate Breezes. — Singapore. — A Dispatch 
 from Boston. — The People of Singapore. — Their Habitations. — Life in the Tropics, 
 — A Dutch Steamer. — Our Crew. — A Question of Races. — Rather Hot. — Banca and 
 Sumatra. — The Straits of Sunda, 
 
 China Sea, January ^th. — In the five months since we left 
 home, we reckon in distances made, eighteen thousand miles, an 
 average of one hundred and twenty miles a day, although it seems 
 as if we had hecn at rest half the time. While w'e are passing on 
 our right tlie extreme promontory of Cochin China, we are leaving 
 on our left, at a distance of one hundred miles, the Philippine Isl- 
 ands, the relic of Spanish empire in the East Indies. We continue 
 enjoying calm seas and temperate breezes. 
 
 Slngajyore, Jamiary IIM. — Anchored at midnight, and what a 
 niirlit! Stifling cabins and myriads of moscpiitoes. Is this our 
 penance for invading the equator ? 
 
 At sunrise, the TTnited States consul, Mr. Jewell, came on 
 board, with Mr. Young, of the house of Busteed & Company. 
 Tlicy drove us, in a M-ell-hung English carriage, behind two fine 
 Anstrahan bays, first to the consulate, where a breakfast awaited 
 us, then to Mr. Young's pretty villa, on the hill, where he is kindly 
 taking care of us. Three months having elapsed since we heard 
 from home, our first inquiry was, whether the telegraph-cable 
 
 I 
 
296 
 
 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. 
 
 has been laid from Point de Galles to this place. " Yes," said llr. 
 Young, " I received to-day a dispatch which came from Boston in 
 twenty-four hours." It is reassuring to come again into instan- 
 taneous communication with home and "the rest of mankind." 
 The new wire brings European intelligence of six weeks' later date 
 than we read at IIong-Kong. This intelligence, however, whicli 
 we so eagerly sought, was contained in a meagre statement. 
 " Nothing important happened since republic proclaimed at Paris. 
 Much speculation. Probably Orleans family. Papers promise ex- 
 pulsion German armies. Perhaps anarchy." 
 
 We enter British India from the east at Singapore. It is tlie 
 chief commercial town of the colony, acquired by purchase and or- 
 ganized by the British Government in 1824, as the Eastern Straits 
 Settlement ; the name derived from the straits of Malacca. This 
 jurisdiction extends north by west to the island of Pcnang, off tlie 
 Malay Peninsula. Penang is officially regarded as the cajntal, 
 although the business of the government is carried on here. Sin- 
 gapore is a frc'^ port. It has an aggregate population of one hun- 
 dred and fifty thousand, which is rapidly increasing. There are 
 five hundred Europeans. British subjects, together with less than 
 a dozen citizens of the United States, monopolize Western naviija- 
 tion and commerce. More than half of the population arc Chinese, 
 chiefly merchants and bankers engaged in the domestic trade, and 
 that which is carried on with adjacent xisiatic countries — Cliina, 
 Siam, Burinah, Java, and the Eastern Archipelago — others arc me- 
 chanics and gardeners. It would be an effectual antidote to tlie 
 California croaking against the pagan Chinese, to see the protection 
 and encouragement which the British authorities extend to the 
 Chinese immigration here. The Jew has not failed to malre good 
 his position. lie is, as everywhere else, a broker in small and sec- 
 ond-hand wares. The residue of the population are chiefly native, 
 perhaps aboriginal Malays, with an accession of indolent and tlirift- 
 less immigrants from Ilindostan. The seamen are of many Orien- 
 tal races, natives of Goa, Javanese, Hindoos, Malays, Burmese, Siam- 
 ese, Cingalese, Abyssinians, and negroes. With this conglomerate 
 ])opulation, it is not singular that Singapore is a harbor for vagrants 
 
 and waifs f 
 say that Si: 
 rope and th 
 Australia. 
 silks and t( 
 tin of Band 
 turcs. Lad 
 mart for art 
 people no 1 
 imitations o 
 here to cur 
 home. But 
 quisitely bei 
 mounted wi 
 on every sid 
 in^s in sane 
 large trade. 
 
 The Eurc 
 concessions, 
 ciousness, cl 
 AYestern idc 
 Malays. W 
 were found 
 above the gn 
 ritv against 
 retain the an 
 
 Here, as 
 this one exhi 
 under the pa 
 European ski 
 The juml 
 religions hen 
 ers contemp 
 Bramin temj 
 severe-look in 
 and a cathed 
 
SINGAPORE AND ITS PEOPLE. 
 
 297 
 
 and waifs from all parts of tlie East. It is almost unnecessary to 
 gay that Singapore is a central station of commerce between En- 
 rope and the far East, Burmah, China, Japan, the Archipelago, and 
 Australia. India opium, camphor, and lacqner, Java cofiee, China 
 silks and teas, Manila tobacco, spices of Sumatra and Borneo, the 
 tin of Banda, etc., are exchanged for British and French manufac- 
 tures. Ladies will be interested in knowing that Singapore is the 
 mart for articles of jewelry and vertu of all sorts, such as civilized 
 people no less than barbarians delight in. Parisian and London 
 imitations of Oriental articles of those sorts are sold by the natives 
 here to curiosity-seeking Europeans, who would reject them at 
 Lome. But there is also an abundance ot native productions, ex- 
 quisitely beautiful ; sea-shell, coral, precious stones, tigers' claws 
 mounted with gold, tigers' skins, and birds-of-paradise, tempt us 
 on every side, while the most delicate Chinese porcelain, and carv- 
 ings in sandal-wood and eagle-wood for incense, are staples of a 
 large trade. 
 
 The European dwellings do not differ from those in the Chinese 
 concessions, while those of the Asiatic immigrants, by greater spa- 
 ciousness, cleanliness, and comfort, manifest an advance toward 
 Western ideas. This improvement, however, is slow among the 
 Malays. Wlien this race became known to the Europeans, they 
 were found living in buildings raised on stakes four or five feet 
 above the ground, for the desirable purpose of drainage and secu- 
 rity against reptiles and wild beasts. The Malays at Singapore 
 retain the architectural habits of their ancestors. 
 
 Here, as at Saigon, the foreigners maintain a public garden, but 
 this one exhibits the indescribable luxuriance of tropical vegetation, 
 under the painstaking -hand of the Chinese cultivator, directed by 
 European skill. 
 
 The jumble of diverse races has produced a strange medley of 
 religions here. There are several Chinese temples, which foreign- 
 ers contemptuously call, here as in China, "joss-houses;" one 
 Bramin temple, with its sacred cows and goats; half a dozen 
 severe-looking Mohammedan mosques ; a Boman Catholic church ; 
 and a cathedral of the Church of England. The British Govern- 
 
 
298 
 
 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. 
 
 ment tolerates all tliese religions, from tlie same political motive 
 with which the emperors tolerated the various modes of worship 
 which prevailed in the Roman Avorld. Although these various re- 
 ligions in India are not considered by the people as equally true, or 
 by the philosophers as equally false, the magistrate regards them as 
 equally useful. This toleration produces mutual indulgence, with- 
 out religious discord. 
 
 A secretary waited upon Mr. Seward, with an invitation from 
 the governor, who is now at Penang. 
 
 Mr. Young, with a very hurried invitation, gathered around m 
 a large and distinguished company of the official people, merchants 
 and bankers of Singapore, with whom we have passed the evening 
 pleasantly. ** 
 
 Jammrii Vlih. — It has been a new experience to sleep in cham- 
 bers, with doors and windows opening on a broad veranda, with- 
 out the protection of panels or glass. It was an experience equally 
 novel, when, stepping on the veranda, at six o'clock, we foimd 
 tables spread with tea, delicate tropical fruits, and ices, while the 
 entire family, including ladies and beautiful children, joined us 
 there, having already returned from their customary exhilaratinn; 
 walks and rides. So it seems that life in the tropics is not with- 
 out pleasant and invigorating excitements and exercise. 
 
 Stoomschejyen Koningin tier Nederlanden^ January 12th, Even- 
 ing. — Having again changed our nationality, we are afloat, this 
 time, imder the tricolor flag of the Netherlands, carefully rej^is- 
 tered, and bound for the island of Java. Our side-wheel steamer 
 is rated at only four hundred and fifty tons, and we think is over- 
 rated at that. She is the flrst steamer which was built on tliat 
 island, and is thirty-four years old. Though not improved by a2;c, 
 it must be admitted that she has held her own against time and 
 typhoon. Though the smallest craft we have yet sailed in, she 
 flourishes a long if not a great name. Heaven save all persons but 
 penal convicts from being cramped into such contracted bortlis, with 
 the mercury standing at 99° I Wc indulge this objurgation hy 
 
THE ISLAND OF SUMATRA. 
 
 299 
 
 is not witli- 
 
 virtiic of tlie traveller's license to find fault. Although the cabins 
 are small, they arc " as neat as a Binningham pin ; " and, while the 
 hatchways are open, the ventilation is perfect. A table stands in 
 the centre of the upper deck, protected by a permanent hurricane 
 awning, and remains covered throughout the whole day with equa- 
 torial luxuries. But the peculiar institution of the Dutch Steam 
 Navigation Company is, another table standing across the beam, 
 midships, on which decanters are always kept full of "Kaneel 
 Liker," maraschino, absinthe, curagoa, Schiedam schnapps, brandy, 
 mm, and we know not what other "appetizers," to which the 
 Dutch passengers resort continually, without a suspicion of singu- 
 larity, and without expense. The platfoi*m of the deck is covered 
 with flowers enough to constitute a conservatory, and with baskets 
 of various and exquisite fruits, thoughtfully brought on board, and 
 arranged for us, by our consid. When we came on board this 
 morning, with many friends, they congratulated us on having " a 
 good cloudy day." It was the first time we ever knew " cloudy 
 weather" at sea the subject of felicitation. 
 
 We are already reminded that we have entered on a new 
 geographical and political study — that of the Oriental Archipelago. 
 Wo are running down the northeastern coast of the rich island of 
 Sumatra, which is of itself almost large enough to be a continent, 
 and which the equator divides, as it divides the whole world, into 
 equal parts. Only one-fourth of it, with a population of a million, 
 has been subjected to Western rule, and this is a Dutch jolony. 
 The other three-fourths, with three millions of people, iire states 
 ruled by native princes, some of wjiom are independent, others 
 under Dutch protection. Sumatra has a commercial importance 
 only inferior in the Archipelago to that of Java. 
 
 Small islands cluster together so closely on our left hand as to 
 give us for a channel almost an inland sea, a continuation of the 
 straits of Malacca. It is in few places more than ten miles wide, 
 and smooth like a river. Its shores are low and wear a rich green 
 verdure. We noticed a profuse shower of rain, at a distance of two 
 miles, while the sky beyond it, as well as over our heads, was 
 bright and cloudless. Our captain, whose professional career dates 
 
 
 
 S.:^ 
 
300 
 
 THE EVSTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. 
 
 from tlie building of the stoomschepen Koningin der Nederlanden, 
 assures us that, while rain is frequent in all parts of this equatorial 
 voyage, it is always raining at the place where that particular 
 shower was falling. 
 
 Our crcYt^, drawn from Singapore, is a mixture of the Asiatic sea- 
 men of that place of which we have spoken. Those of them who 
 come from Western or Southern Asia, wear a light, graceful, and 
 picturesque costume, strongly contrasting with the plain and coarse 
 dress of the Chinese. They evidently make faithful use of the bath. 
 Varying in complexion from tawny to black, they have regular and 
 delicate features. They exhibit nothing of that stolid reserve 
 which causes the Chinese to be regarded as sullen and contemptu- 
 ous. Their different languages are based on the ancient Sanscrit. 
 Each has an alphabet. Perhaps it is for this reason that they ac- 
 quire any European language easily, and speak it with much cor- 
 rectness. It will be a curious study for us to inquire how much 
 this greater adaptability of the southern and western Asiatic races 
 to European intercourse is due to their earlier and more intimate 
 acquaintance with foreigners. We are now inclined to tiiink that 
 a closer ethnological affinity exists between the European and the 
 Hindoo and Malay nations than between the Europeans and the 
 Mongolians ; and, again, that there is a closer affinity between the 
 Hindoo and the Malay nations than between the Mongolian and 
 the Malay. However it may have happened, there is a contrast 
 quite as perceptible between the rude and vigorous population of 
 Northern China and the gentle and docile nat'ves of Sumatra and 
 Malacca, as there was at the time of the discovery of America be- 
 tween the fierce tribes of New England and New York and the 
 harmless natives of San Salvador and Hispaniola. 
 
 float about i 
 
 Off the Island of Banca, January ISth. Fahrenheit 90°.— 
 Rather hot for January, according to our way of thinking. They 
 say that latitude affects climate, but we do not sec it or feel it. 
 Yesterday we left Singapore on the parallel of latitude one degi'ee 
 seventeen minutes north. At one o'clock this morning we cross 
 the equator, and now we are two degrees south of it. Yet, for any 
 
A BOA AFLOAT. 
 
 301 
 
 consciousness wc have, tlic ^veather at the three points admits of 
 no degrees of comparison. It is hot at Singapore — it is hot under 
 the equator — it is just as hot here. Perhaps the maxim " iVe curat 
 ruhumis'*^ applies to the laws of Nature as well as human laws. 
 
 We have always read that life on a Dutch sailing-craft is easy 
 and lazy. The Koningin der Xcderlanden does not disprove it. 
 While our captain insists that he makes seven and a half knots, our 
 measurement on the chart shows that we are really going only six. 
 Our passengers, however, are the most active people in the world. 
 They show their vigor in two ways — one in changing their dress 
 every hour to get cool, the other in taking schnapps every half-hour 
 to get hot again. 
 
 Crossing the line, after all. especially at night, is no great affair. 
 We felt no concussion, and, as the passengers were all in their 
 berths, the customary nautical ceremonies were omitted. 
 
 Charts show us high mountains in the interior on either side. 
 Banca seems covered with forests, interrupted here and there by 
 cultivation. Sumatra presents a low, sedgy shore, large pieces of 
 which, covered with jungle, are continually breaking loose, and 
 float about in the forms of pretty green islets on the dark sea. Of 
 course, every one desires to haul up to them and see what are the 
 plants and flowers which cover them. A Dutch skipper yielded to 
 this impulse a short time ago. The captain, alighting on the float- 
 ing mass, had just set his foot on a cactus-stump, when a huge boa- 
 constrictor reared his glossy head and proclaimed his proprietor- 
 ship of the island by violent hisses. The invader retreated, leav- 
 ing the " lord of the isle " to navigate his crazy craft as best he 
 might. 
 
 Here we are with the Malay Peninsula just behind us, the Spice 
 Islands, Sumatra, Banca, Borneo, Java, Celebes, Floris, Timor, 
 Booro, Ceram, New Guinea, and a thousand lesser ones all 
 around us. We read and " hear tell " of elephants that break 
 down telegraph-poles in rubbing their hard hides ; of tigers, lions, 
 and leopards, always prowling through the jungle ; of shiny serpents 
 in coils like cables ; of monkeys playing their antics in palm-tree 
 groves ; of parrots, paroquets, peacocks, and birds-of-paradise, that 
 
 I ^ 
 
 t 
 
 ik 
 
 i 
 
 % ■ - -J, 
 
 c 1 
 
:502 
 
 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. 
 
 excel the tloral vc^^etatiun in brilliancy of colors; and yet all that 
 we can see of them is occasionally a captive beast in a menagerie, or 
 a stufted bird in a curiosity-shop at Singapore — a new illustration 
 of a discovery heretofore announced, that going round the world is 
 not the way to see it. I^evertheless, it is something to learn in the 
 near vicinity the topography of these islands, which are the native 
 homes of the various tribes of the jNEalav race : to learn somethiiiir 
 of the character and condition of that gentle race, whose languid 
 energies arc now excited to activity and directed by their Dutch 
 conquerors. They possess a wealth peculiarly their own — the 
 metals, invaluable teakwood, and coffee, with spices, dyes, and 
 gums, aromatics, and roots used in art and medicine, brilliant 
 feathers and glossy skins of beasts of prey, which taste and luxury 
 require in every condition. Even this little island on onr left reg- 
 ulates, by its production, the market of tin as eiiectually as the old 
 Almaden mines in Spain and the New Almaden mines in Califor- 
 nia regulate that of quicksilver throughout the world. Moreover, 
 there are, in various parts of these islands, ruins of cities and tem- 
 ples, which seem to indicate a primeval civilization, which has 
 passed away without leaving either record or tradition. By-and-by, 
 
 ommercial intercourse will render research among tliese antiqii- 
 ties practicable, perhaps proiitable. Meanwhile, we must be satis- 
 fied with an inspection of Java, a design which we shall be able tv 
 execute if the Koningin der Xederlanden shall live to complete 
 this, the ten hundred and twentieth of her voyages. 
 
 Despite our resolution, this equatorial travel is working a 
 change in our habits. The heat becomes insupportable at ten 
 o'clock, and drives us to a siesta. At sunset, a breeze springs up. 
 clouds gather, a brilliant display of electricity begins, which is con- 
 tinued until midnight, and brings refreshing rains. So the hot day 
 having become our night, the cool night becomes our day for exer- 
 cise, writing, and conversation. 
 
 Jamiary lUh. — "We crossed, last night, the entrance of the 
 straits of Sunda, the great channel of trade between Europe, China. 
 and Japan. Can any one doubt the unity of tho human family, 
 
A MONSOOX. 
 
 
 when ho rcciills the fact that tho civil wav which convnlscd tho 
 United States, five years ago, had its paiulul e])isodes in this dis- 
 tant sea i AVc eiicoiiutered in the ])assage one of those monsoons 
 wlm'h render it difficult and dangerous. The storm caused the 
 Ivoningin aforesaid to dance in a manner most undignified and 
 unbecoming this grave and "ancient mariner." The ports were 
 closed, the cabins grew unendurable, and the deck became tho 
 coiunion sleeping-room of the passengers. 
 
 SINGAPORE. 
 
 • 4 
 
 ■r 
 
 ■A 
 1 
 
 ft 
 1 
 
 
 ■3 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 THE CAPITAL OF JAVA. 
 
 The City of Batavia.— Tljc Flotol dcs Indcs.— A New-England Sabbath.— Malay PcrvanU. 
 — Tlie Kind's Plahi. — Population of Java. — The Queen of the P]ast. — Departure for 
 Buitcnzorg. — Maimer of Travelling. — The Vicc-Kegal Kesideuec. — The Climate of 
 Java. — The Baths of Buiteuzocg. 
 
 Ijatavhi, January \(Mh. — At sunrise we were tossing in tlic 
 open roadstead, four miles from tlic shore. The monsoon was pas;r, 
 tliough the sea had not subsided. The skies cleared at eight o'clock, 
 giving^ us a view of a long, level, green coast, swelling upward into 
 lofty blue mountains. There is much less shipping here than at 
 Singapore, but the diversity of flags indicates a not less various 
 commerce. The smallest of all steam-tugs was seen bounding over 
 the waves and distributing passengei'sand freights, among steamers 
 wdiicli are going out to neighboring Dutch ports throughout the 
 Archipelago, ^yhcn she Jiad done this, she rounded up to our 
 steamer, and received us on board. On the way, we passed a 
 steamship-of-war, freighted with troops, going to repress a native 
 rebellion in Borneo. 
 
 A pretty stream, which once stagnated in the jungle, has been 
 converted into a broad canal, that now aflbrds navigation from tlie 
 roadstead to the heart of the city of Batavia. The custom-honse 
 officers took our own statcinent for our number, ages, occupations, 
 luggage, and intentions. Malay drivers, the smallest men we ever 
 Baw, with the heaviest sort of European barouches, drawn by mini- 
 
THE STllEETS OF HATAVIA. 
 
 305 
 
 atnrc ponies, whirled on a gallop over streets smooth as a race- 
 course, bordered by substantial white cotta,iJ:;e (hvelliii<jfs, enil)ow- 
 ered ii» groves of pijie, palmetto, ])alm, bamboo, India-rubber, aiul 
 iiiiinosa. These cottages, which might l,»e mistaken for villas, have 
 deep marble porticoes or broad verandas, set off with vases of tropi- 
 cal tlowers, and make an clfective display of small but tastefid gar- 
 den statuary. This colonial town, like the cities of the mother- 
 
 iss a native 
 
 BTBEST IN BATAVIA. 
 
 country, is traversed by well-built canals. Ilorse-cars are moving 
 swiftly on smooth street-railways. This enterprise, so novel in the 
 East, belongs to Mr. Pells, who, though a native of the Netherlands, 
 has long been United States banker, trader, and vice-consul. So 
 closely does the city assimilate to Holland, that it seems to us we 
 have gone quite through the East, and are already in Europe. 
 We drove to the Ilotel des ludcs, the first tavern we have had 
 
 ■•!>* 
 
 ^ 
 
 !> 
 
 vrti 
 
 ■•t 
 
 1 
 
 .1 
 
 Bi 
 
 .1 
 
306 
 
 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC, 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 occasion to seek since we left Salt Lake City, if we except the Chi- 
 nese inns on the way from Peking to the Great Wall. This hotel 
 is a building of one story, surrounding a circular court, with a 
 higher central edifice, which contains the proper offices, drawing- 
 rooms, and saloons, a veranda surrounding the whole. The outer 
 buildings, occupied as private apartments, are connected by coiri- 
 dors with the centre building. In a scrupulously neat bathing- 
 house attached to our apartment, we enjoyed, for the first time, the 
 full luxury of an Oriental bath, for the bath has not yet been suc- 
 cessfully introduced into the Furopean settlements in Japan and 
 China. This bath consists of a marble basin fifteen feet in diame- 
 ter, the water exactly the temperature of the air, clear, and deep 
 enough for swimming. 
 
 It being Sunday, we composed ourselves early for the enjoy- 
 
 MAIIttlKl) WOMAN OK JAVA. 
 
 mcnt of a 'N'cw-England Sabbath, a day of absolute rest. But tliis 
 was not to be. A host of native SLreet-pcdlers had ibllowed us to 
 
MALAY SERVANTS. 
 
 307 
 
 the hotel. They sat clown and chattered on the veranda, they 
 crowded into our parlor, " singly, by pairs, and by the dozen," and, 
 in spite of repulse and remonstrance, forced upon us a display of 
 tlicir cheap but ostentatious wares. For the first time, we have 
 luaiutained a resolution a?j;ainst the itinerant merchant, yielding 
 oiilv in the case of a blind trader. Even he left us, at last, Aveary 
 with our delay in findino- the guilders required for the purchase. 
 But we called him back and bought a pair of green-velvet gold- 
 embroidered slippers. Breakfast at twelve. Its excellence, con- 
 trasting with that of breakfasts at home, was that nothing on the 
 table was hot. On what principle is it that Europeans in the East 
 smother the delicate flavor of rice in thirty or forty piquant con- 
 diments ? All the servants are Malays. They arc meek and un- 
 obtrusive, but not servile ; willing and diligent, but not quick. 
 Tidy and even tasteful in dress, they make an attractive costume 
 with a guilder's worth of printed muslin. 
 
 The Malay is, on an average, two inches shorter than the Euro- 
 peans or Mongolian, with scai jely any beard, and the sexes are un- 
 (listinguishable by their dress. 
 
 Mr. Pells, advised, from Singapore, of our coming, came at one 
 d'clock and immediately removed us to his pleasant villa on the 
 '•King s Plain," which is the Hyde Park of P>atavia, a shaded lawn, 
 four miles long, and half a mile wide. Primitive national habits, 
 however, are not relinquished here. The " King's Plain" is the 
 (•oiumon pasturage of the milch-cows of the city. An artist would 
 find a pretty study in this quiet scene, in which the aninuils, cro])- 
 ping the rich grass, seem scarcely more at leisure than their Malay 
 aitendants, sitting under the trees, in picturesque attitude and cos- 
 tume. 
 
 In going to our new residence, we stopped to hear the "King's 
 Itand," aiul lingered there until sunset witnessing the evening 
 promenade of the whole Euro])ean popidati* a, which, including 
 military and naval olHcers, numbers six thousand. There was a 
 }2;nttcs(iue display of carriages and liveries of fashions now obso- 
 lete in Europe. Gentlemen as well as ladies and children disdain 
 to cover their heads after sunset, while all "sorts and conditions of 
 
 K 
 
 
 C''^ 
 
308 
 
 THE EASTERN" ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. 
 
 « 
 I 
 
 men " wear white gloves, and all have the staid and gentle Dutcli 
 manner. Will onr friends consult the tables of population ? AYe 
 think the island of Java is the most densely-populated country in 
 
 A JAVANESE UtBL. 
 
 the world. There are fourteen millions of people within an area 
 of forty-five thousand square miles. Tlic city of Batavia, with a 
 diameter of eight miles, contains one hundred and fifty thousand 
 inhabitants — more than half of these are Chinese. The residue, 
 with the exception of the few Europeans, is divided nearly equally 
 between the two native Malay races, Javanese and Sundcse. All 
 the Malavs arc Mohammedans. The Chinese retain their native 
 heathenism. The Europeans, of course, are Christians, but free 
 from religious zeal or fervor. 
 
 Batavia challenges the title of " Queen of the East.'' Certainly 
 it presents a delightful contrast to the towns of .Japan and Cliiiin, 
 while its profusion of equatorial shade-trees and flowers makes it 
 far more pleasing than any place we have at home. The settltMnent 
 of New York, by the Dutch, and that of Java were coutempora- 
 
VISIT TO BUITENZORG. 
 
 309 
 
 iieous. Each was suiTouncled by aboriginal tribes — those around 
 i^ew York sparse, those around Batavia popuh^us. The aboriginal 
 races around New York have virtually disappeared, and are re- 
 placed by millions of European derivation ; the aboriginal races 
 around Batavia, on the other hand, remain in even greater force 
 than at the time of the conquest, while the European population is 
 only twenty-seven thousand. Again, neither the Netherlands nor 
 any European state has kept a foothold within the vast territory 
 now covered by the United States ; while the Dutch not only re- 
 tain their first dominion in Java, but have extended it over the 
 whole island and a large portion of the Archipelago. What a con- 
 trast there has been in the processes of civilization which have pro- 
 duced results so widely different in the two hemispheres ! 
 
 The Governor, or, as he is called, the "Residente" of Batavia, 
 visited Mr. Seward to-day, and tendered us the hospitalities of the 
 province. The Governor-General of the Dutch East Indies resides 
 at Buitenzorg, thirty-six miles distant, and has invited us to be his 
 ii'iiosts there. The intense heat to-day has not only overpowered 
 ii<, but seems to have overpowered the whole i)opulation of Batavia. 
 Our morning rest was protracted until evening, and then deluging 
 rains made us prisoners. 
 
 Ijt(itenzo)'(j, Januar}/ \Wi.^ — "We yesterday appointed six for 
 our hour of dc[)arture. It was our own fault, or rather that of our 
 lujrgage, and not the fault of the post-ofiice, that we were delayed 
 until half-past seven. The admiration of Batavia, which we ex- 
 pressed yesterday, was somewhat modified as we came through 
 the city and suburbs this morning. "We were, at first, unable to 
 decide by what name we should call the dwellings of Europeans, 
 whetlicr bungalows, cottagos, or villas. We now found them, each 
 with its beautiful grove, so exactly like to every other, that, un- 
 aided, we shall be quite unable, on our return to the city, to find 
 Mr. Pell's residence, or the street on which it stands. To tell 
 the truth, moreover, the right line in geometry is not the line of 
 beauty, nor is the paralicf jgram, although a very convenient figure 
 tor many uses, especially adapted to landscape-gardening. Kor 
 
 '1 
 
 i 
 
 1^^ 
 
 
 6:::^ 
 
 ■i\ 
 
310 
 
 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. 
 
 was it altogether gratifying to find the "King's Plain" soakiiK' 
 and miry, much more suitable for a dairy-meadow than a park. 
 These strictures, however, we now think hypercritical ; we mu.st 
 still pronounce Batavia the most attractive city we have ever seen. 
 The road to Buitonzorg is well graded, perfectly macadamized, 
 and, what is better, completely bordered and shaded on either side 
 
 
 
 BCF.NE IN JAVA. 
 
 by liigh, thick hedges of heliotrope, cactus, and creepers, all in 
 bloom. Over these hedges, the light bamboo lines the avonuo. 
 opening only to reveal the native cottages, peeping from iiiulor 
 ])alm-groves. All the people we sec, whether about their huiublo 
 dwellings, or moving on the high-road, seem busy, contented, and 
 happy. Oidy two beggars approached us on the way, and those 
 timidly; both were blind. 
 
 mcnt. Sevc 
 
A FASCINATING RESIDENCE. 
 
 an 
 
 The manner of travel here is on the postal system, which was 
 never known in America, and is now superseded by raih-oads in 
 Europe. Wc have Mr. Pell's stately old coach, which has seats for 
 tjix passengers inside, and ample room for four servants outside. 
 We carry no trunks, our wardrobes being stored in the capacious 
 boxes under the seats. Four horses draw us over the level plain ; 
 more are added in cUmbing hills. The driver has two assistants or 
 runners {lopers}^ who, by constantly applying their lashes, keep the 
 ponies up to running-speed. They are whisked off and replaced ai 
 stages of seven miles. We made the journey in three hours. At 
 each stage, the traveller pays four cents to each loper, and ten or 
 twenty cents to the driver. 
 
 If Batavia is lascinating, this suburban viceregal residence is 
 supremely so. The palace stands at the south side of the native 
 city. The approach is through a park, covered with a greener and 
 smoother sward, we imagine, than even England or Holland can 
 exhibit. Five hundred deer are seen reclining or feeding under the 
 lofty shade-trees. The palace is said to be on the model of Blen- 
 heim — however this may be, we recognize the plan of our own Cap- 
 itol at Washington. Like every thing else in this favorite Dutch 
 colony, it hap])ily combines good taste with elegance and comfort. 
 The governor-general has received us very kindly, although not 
 without something of the stiffness of official ceremony. The ladies 
 seem to regard us as an accession, not unwelcome, to a society cir- 
 cumscribed and somewhat monotonous. 
 
 The Dutch East Indies are ruled absolutely by directions from 
 the Hague. Practically, the governor-general is viceroy. At the 
 time of the conquest, two native sovereigns, with the pompons 
 titles of sultan and emperor; divided the island between them, one 
 of the territories being known as Java, the other as Sunda. The 
 (loscentlants of each of these sovereigns being subsidized, though 
 really divested of power, retain certain contracted domains, with 
 .titular rank, in subordination to the authority of the Dutch Govern- 
 ment. Several other native kings, subsidized in the same way, 
 have a somewhat similar domain and tenure. AVith these qualifica- 
 tions, the executive government is administered by the governor- 
 
 
 = ■*« 
 
 
 ^ ■ 
 
general, w 
 lluine govc 
 llic Dii 
 natives, ha 
 interval of 
 Kapoleonic 
 ti'ol of Frai 
 Britain. 
 
 January 
 It has no i 
 
 \ '% 
 
 ii*a 
 
 i! 
 
 ^^ 
 
LILY rOXD. 
 
 313 
 
 general, with the aid of an executive council appointed by the 
 Home government. 
 
 Tlie Dutch, not without severe and frequent contests with the 
 natives, have held sway here since the year IGIO, with only an 
 interval of from 1811 to 1810, when among the events of the 
 Kupoleonic war in Europe, Holland having passed under the con- 
 trol of France, Java was seized and held for five years by Great 
 Britain. 
 
 January Vbth. — Shall we note the climatic features of Java ? 
 It has no spring and no autumn — only sunnner and winter. It 
 
 
 f0- 
 
 L[I.V I'ONII l'Al,,V( K (iinH'NllS. .lAVA. 
 
314 
 
 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. 
 
 f 
 
 1 
 
 rains all summer, and is comparatively dry during the harvest- 
 time in winter. The present season is the summer. It rained so 
 constantly yesterday that we could not enter a carriage, or stc'|) 
 on the ground. This morning, Governor-General Mver, with the 
 ladies, gave us a drive in the botanical gardens attached to the 
 ])alace. All the world knows that they are scientifically planted, 
 but why give them a technical name? They arc of princely di- 
 mensions, and arc inconceivably magnificent, for they contain, or 
 are understood to contain, every attainable tropical tree, ])lant, or 
 flower. Of the palm alone there are a hundred species. Dense 
 groves of tree-ferns are interlaced with myriads of orchids, cov- 
 ered with what one might well imagine to be the very flowers of 
 paradise, and we were at a loss to say Avhicli form of life in the 
 tropics, the .vegetable or the animal, excels in color. Man's hand 
 has planted and trained the trees and flowers, but the gorgeous 
 troops of birds which inhabit them arc voluntary residents there, 
 making the shade "vocal with their ransic." These groves are 
 interspersed with lakes, whose waters murmur under the per- 
 fumed pressure of the crimson lily and the sacred lotus. These 
 lakes are the homes of some varieties of tropical birds ; swans, 
 black and white, are domesticated in them ; and the cockatoo, 
 with his creamy plumage, seems unconscious of imprisonment in 
 his spacious gilded cage, so constructed as to afibrd him ample 
 sunshine and cool bath. 
 
 Alighting from our carriages, we took a path which leads 
 through a bamboo-grove so dense that the down which its delicate 
 leaves cast on the smooth gi'avel takes the form of a tender moss. 
 This moss, taking root, interweaves so closely that it is not de- 
 ranged by the footstep. The very air of this fairy grove seemed 
 to us to hold a soothing verdure. But it is not alone in the lakes, 
 groves, and lawns, that the feathered race contents itself at Euiteii- 
 zorg : 
 
 " This guest of summer. 
 The temple-haunting martlet does approve 
 By his loved masonry, that heaven's breath 
 Smiles sweet and wooingly here." 
 
TROPICAL FOLIAGE, 
 
 3i: 
 
 At sunset, thousands of martins gather for the night under the 
 eaves of the pahice. Sitting closely to each other, they are mistaken 
 by a careless observer for a blackened bead, which extends without 
 break around the cornice ot the entire editiee. Perhaps we dilute 
 
 TROPICAL FOLIAOE, JAVA. 
 
 too much on tropical Nature, but its first effect upon all minds is 
 to excite a wish never to leave it. "VVe almost contracted for at 
 least an occasional home at Nagasaki. AVe left Hong-Kong and 
 Singa])ore reluctantly ; but Batavia, and more than all Buitenzorg, 
 wins our thoughts irresistibly away from all that is practical in life, 
 to delight in repose and serene contemplation. 
 
 The truth, ho\vever, is, that the admiration of tropical scenery, 
 though universal, wears off as s^uddenly as it comes. We have not 
 
 
 c ii 
 
316 
 
 THE EASTERN AIlCIIirELAGO, ETC. 
 
 
 thus for found .an American or European content Avitli a gonial 
 clime. The merchant, mariner, or missionary, even the wuineii 
 and children, stay here against their wills, and wait impatiently lor 
 their release this month or the next, or, at iarthest, this year or tlic 
 next. 
 
 If we should forget every thing else at Buitcnzorg, we arc not 
 likely to forget its baths. Leaving the palace-door, and driviiii; 
 through a winding, palm-shaded lane, we came to the baml)u(> 
 grove. Dismissing carriage and attendants there, we penetrated 
 
 JAVANESE FRUIT. 
 
 to its dark centre, by a tangled foot-path. There we found a 
 marble basin, eighty feet across, filled with flowing water. Tlie 
 depth is regulated at will, and a slight bamboo rail is stretched 
 
SCEXE IX JAVA. 
 
 317 
 
 DPross the bnsla for security against accident. Tall palm-trees pro- 
 tect the bather from the sun, while the surrounding grove is an 
 impenetrable screen. Coining out of the bath, we picked up what 
 we thought to be a green walnut. On removing the hard, acrid 
 shell, pungent scarlet mace betrayed itself; breaking through this, 
 and the inner shell, which it covered, a fragrant, white, milky pulp 
 disclosed the incipient nutmeg. 
 
 BCE.S'E IN .I.vVA. 
 
 i 
 
 i ft 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 If 
 » < 
 «r 
 •:' 
 
 I 
 
 EXCURSIOX INTO THE INTERIOR. 
 
 A Balking Horse. — Cultivation of Rico. — Tropical Flowers. — Surabaya. — The Rcj^ont Prn- 
 vAyo. — Dutch Culonization. — How Jiiva ir< governoil. — Handong. — Tlio Refrcnt mil 
 the Interpreter. — A Gouty Monarch. — The Regent's Income. — How he spends it. 
 
 Surahat/a, January 'ilst. — The governor-general and his csti 
 niable family dismissed us, after a very early breakfast, on an o\- 
 c'lirsion M'liich is affording us an opportunity to see something of the 
 mountains, and more of the simple people of this beautiful island. 
 
 Still travelling in Mr. Pell's spacious coach, with government 
 orders for relays, we drove rapidly through the quaint and quiet 
 streets of the pretty little city of Buitenzorg. So long as we kept 
 the plain, we had only one annoyance — a balking horse — one df 
 eight. Peasantry, at every halt, assisted the lopers in rolling the 
 heavy carriage against the refactory animal's heels, and so, whether 
 he w'illed to go or not, we got on. Crossing a small stream, Me 
 climbed irregular volcanic mountains, and came through a goi-i^e 
 between two of them ; the one seven thousand feet high, the other 
 four thousand. The mountain-sides are terraced \'ith rice-fiehU, 
 one above the other. These fields Avere covered with standiiii; 
 water. The successive terraces show the crop at every stage of its 
 growth. On the upper terrace, the young plant is seen, rescmblinir 
 grass just sprouted from the seed ; on the level just below, .^iniile 
 stalks of rice just transplanted ; below this, fields of the grain at 
 successive periods of its growth ; until, at the foot of the mountain, 
 
niCE-CrLTIVATION". 
 
 ;5i!) 
 
 le mountain, 
 
 it is already ripened, and ready for the knilL'. We say the lii[fv^ 
 tor neither cradle, n<>r scythe, nor sickle, is used in the rice-iields 
 iii .lava. The Koran commands the huslianduian to cut oil' each 
 iiiilividual stalk singly. This injunction the pious Moslem never 
 disohoys. 
 
 Kicc-cultivation is a very laborious process. A prairie farmer, 
 wc think, would despair, if he were obliged to trans})lant his wheat- 
 cfop from its lirst bed, plant by plant; he would die, if it were 
 necessary to Avatcr it, even once during its growth. It would be 
 loft to rot in the field if he were denied a ''reaper," or at least a 
 cradle or sickle ; it would waste in the barn or stack if he could not 
 procure a threshing-machine or a fanning-mill. On the other hand, 
 here each blade of rice is removed to a new bed, and from its plant- 
 inii' until its ripening it is irrigated once every day. When it is 
 irathered, the kernels arc separated from the husk by hand. Not- 
 withstanding this vast labor, rice is the chief production, as it is the 
 chief food of all the Asiatic races, constituting half the po])ulation 
 (if the globe. The cause of the productiveness of Java (greater 
 than that of any portion of the earth) readily discloses itself to the 
 must careless observer as he passes through the country. It is a 
 combination of eipiatorial heat, volcanic soil, and perennial moun- 
 tain-streams. These rivulets are subdivided at their springs, and 
 conducted around and down the winding terraces to the base of the 
 mountain, where they are in like manner gathered and poured in 
 sparkling cascades down the steep declivity ; then to be again sub- 
 divided, and made to perform the same gentle service as before to 
 successive terraces below. 
 
 We know well enough the slow progress of science and art at 
 home, but who taught this Malay peasantry this skill in hydranlics, 
 which surpasses that of any civilized people ? 
 
 We are now seeing that wc might have spared ourselves the 
 trouble of threading the walks of the botanical gardens at Bui- 
 tenzorg. All around us, every way we turn, whichever way wc 
 look, are innumerable species of palm, the great banyan, exquisite 
 tree-ferns thirty or forty feet high, sparkling witli parasitic flowers; 
 fragrant hedges of heliotrope fifteen feet high, now in full bloom — 
 
 
 % 
 
 jS^ 
 
320 
 
 THE EASTERN" ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. 
 
 *•* 
 «« 
 
 4 
 
 not monotonous blue as witli us, but of every color and hue — alter- 
 nating '.vitli other hedges of the grotesque cactus of a hundred 
 shapes and equally splendid in bloom. Every one is familiar with 
 the lily of the valley, but we find here the lily of the mountain, a 
 stately flower giving out even a sweeter odor than its little name- 
 sake. Mountains shine with white lilies, and lakes with the incom- 
 parable lot-i. Although cotfee-plantations spread a broad, dark 
 shadow behind flowery hedges, yet the bright green rice-fields are 
 never out of the landscape. Where these allow space, there aie 
 meadows gay with azaleas of infinite variety, set in borders of pink 
 and white and crimson oleanders, which attain here the stature of 
 the magnolia. 
 
 AVe h ve found rest and refreshment at the village of Surabaya. 
 a pleasant resort in a mountain r.mphitheatre, for the dwellers on 
 the ;ea-coast. The clearing ap of a rain-storm has just given u? 
 instead of the rainbow, an equatorial phenomenon — a broad, pris- 
 matic column, stretching from the centre of the heavens, ([iiiie 
 down the mountain-side, resting on the plain below and flooding: 
 the valley with a gorgeous light. 
 
 The tul'^'' (Thote does not differ, either in pretension, costliness, 
 or inea^TPncss, f'-om like service at Catskill or other mountain 
 resorts in our o'a a country. 
 
 Sjlandjioei', January 'ilst. — We left our balky horse at Sura- 
 baya. A brake, with an iron shoe, was fixed on a hind-wheel, Not- 
 withstanding these checks, we were rolling rapidly down into \\w 
 next valley, when the alarm sounded that a wheel was on fire. It 
 was extinguished, and we were thundering forward M'ith grciiter 
 velocity than before, when we had another fright — the cliiiin dtiln 
 shoe broke. A rope of bull'alo hide was substituted for it, and we 
 liad scarcely taken the road again, when the shoe itself gave wav. 
 But, with careful driving, and our lopers holding us hack, wr 
 escaped harm. 80 at six o'clock wo entered this very ])retty vil 
 lage, which, although a native one, is laid out in streets and sqiiaris, 
 with that degree of geometrical precision, cnnd ornamented with 
 that peculiar taste, which is everywhere so observable in the Neth- 
 
REGENT PRAWIPvO DA KEDYA. 
 
 321 
 
 erlands. The governor-general liaving dispatclied notice of our 
 eoiiiing, and also sent with us his young kinsman Mr. Lowe, avc 
 were met outside of the town by a native subaltern officer, in Dutcli 
 uniform, and conducted to the palace in the centre of a park largei* 
 tlian the Capitol-grounds at Washington. Here, under a tasteful 
 porte-cochet'e, we were received by the Regent Prawiro da Kedyu. 
 He is a lineal descendant of the long-since dethroned Kings of Pad- 
 jadjiira in the western empire of Java, and bears the titular hon- 
 
 « 
 
 1 
 
 TlIK UEliKNT rilAWIKO DA UKUYA. 
 
 ors of Padhc Sonnongoniz. The regent is thirty years old, digni- 
 tiod and liandsonie, and has pleasing manners. A ^lohannnedan, 
 ho wciU's a turban of orange and black muslin, a tight black-cloth 
 jacket, with large gold buttons, and a standing collar, on M'hidi 
 siiarklc three enormous diamoiuls, and with the whitest of linen 
 it neck aiul wrist. A mrnng of gay-colored muslin, painted with 
 li,L,nu'('s emblematic of his rank, hangs from his waist over black 
 trousers. White stockings and gold-embroidered velvet shoes com- 
 
323 
 
 THE EASTERN ARCniPELAGO, ETC. 
 
 n 
 
 •1 
 *>* 
 
 J 
 
 ' i 
 i 
 
 plete liis dress. He wears at his side a sliort sword, witli scabbard 
 of gold, and hilt profusely covered with diamonds. 
 
 Owing to the luiniidity of the climate, a customary law of land- 
 scape gardening is so far reversed that the area which immediateh- 
 surrounds the palace, although ornamented with trees, is paved 
 with gravel instead of being a green lawn. The palace, one storv 
 in height, is equal in its dimensions to the White House. The 
 model and style of the buildings are perfect, but the materials ave 
 fragile, and the construction unsubstantial and cheap. There is a 
 ludicrous contrast between the vaulted ceiling resting on a double 
 row of graceful columns, and the rough, uneven bamboo floor so 
 light that the whole house trembles under every footstep. The fur- 
 niture, entirely European, plain and ill selected, must have been 
 supplied by some second-hand dealer in Amsterdam. Our princely 
 host showed us our several apartments. The dinner at which he 
 presided had the substantial character of a European feast with 
 the addition of the curry, fruits, and sweets, of the island. x\ftcr 
 leaving the table we were serenaded by a band of native musicians. 
 Their music is derived from Ilindostan. The instruments arc 
 reeds, bells, and a sort of violin. The tones are soft and monoto- 
 nous, and free from discord, with a barely perceptible melody. Too 
 weary to sit through the protracted entertainment, we retired t(j 
 rest, with the strains still falling on our ears like the rustling of a 
 gentle wind through the tree-tops. 
 
 Sj I and} loer, January 22<I. — Dutch colonization has a story as 
 simi»lc as its results are wonderful. The Netherlands Goveniniciit 
 seventy or eighty years ago actpiired the Dutch East India ( oiii- 
 pany's titles to its possessions in the East, and substituted itself 
 in the place of that great mercantile establishment. Using the 
 national force as occasion required to perfect and maintain acqui- 
 sitions, they brought the whole of Java under their political rule. 
 Having done this, the Government api)ropriatcd absolutely to tlie 
 crown whatever lands were unoccu])ied. They compounded with 
 the two native sovereigns before mentioned and their vassal kin;:.'- 
 for the management of the estates which were under cuilivaiioii, 
 
BAXDOXG. 
 
 323 
 
 and the disposal of their products. After this, they gradually 
 extinguished by purchase the rights of the native proprietors, and 
 so have been continually enlarging the royal domain. By way of 
 commending their rule to the natives, they have left to the fam- 
 ilies of the dispossessed rulers not only a titular rank, but they 
 jiave employed their chiefs in the management of their several 
 Lv-tates, allowing to each the official honor of regent, and actually 
 iiijsociating him with the Dutch residente or governor. The resi- 
 (leute exercises the real power, but ostensibly in the name and 
 under the authority of the native prince. The latter receives an 
 ample stipend, which enables him to maintain a show of his 
 hereditary dignity, and in consideration of which he entertains 
 all the Government agents and their visitors at his palace. The 
 Dutch residente directs through the native regent what seed shall 
 be sown on every plantation, how and when the harvest shall be 
 :,ritliered, what wages shall be paid to the cultivators, and disposes 
 of the products at prices fixed in every case, by the Governor- 
 General and Council of the Indies. The results of this system 
 are, that, while the people seem to be comfortable and contented, 
 it defrays all the expenses of local administration in peace and 
 war, and pays an annual revenue of five million dollars into the 
 national treasury at the Hague. Java, thus governed, remains 
 what the discoverers found it, " the garden of the world." 
 
 Jjundo)!', Jamta/'f/ 2Sd. — Our host at Sjiandjioer gave us at an 
 early hour a cup of the native cofl'ce, with native sugar, and put 
 lis on the way in good time this morning — first, to survey more 
 leisurely than yesterday the little provincial capital ; and then to 
 continue our upward way to the centre of the island. The mouTi- 
 taiu-pidcs which we climbed are more abrupt than those we trav- 
 elled on the previous day, while the teeming population seems, if 
 possible, more simple and gentle. Many sorts of palm and cactus 
 ilisappenr, but the heliotrope is i-icher than ever, the tree-ferns 
 taller and more beautiful. "\Vo had the various experiences of 
 mountain-travel — travel with six horses, with oxen, and with mixed 
 teams of horses and oxen ; sometimes we were pushed upward, 
 
 iiiii 
 
 
 ft. 
 
 mm '.'^ 
 
324 
 
 THE EASTERN" ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. 
 
 n 
 
 sometimes held back with human hands alone ; sometimes moved 
 by the working of tlio endless chain. We completed the journey 
 at live o'clock this afternoon. 
 
 This town is built on the same model as the one last visited. 
 Hardly had we entered it before we encountered demonstrative 
 evidence that the native prince, Wiranarta Kalsoema Radhe Ade- 
 pathe, Regent of Bandong, is every inch a king. His despotic 
 authority is reflected in the desi)ondent countenances and de- 
 meanor of his subje^'ts. Within his dominion we were recognized 
 as his guests. No traveller on the road, whether young or old 
 whether a man staggering under a heavy burden, or a woman with 
 a child in her arms, passed us without first receiving our permission, 
 no matter how slowly we might be moving, or how long we might 
 be stopping. All whom we met went down on their knees as 
 we appi'oached, nor did they venture to leave that posture or 
 even lift their eyes from the ground until we had passed by. 
 This was a strange sight among a people who are more sen- 
 sitive than any other on points of personal dignit;;. Every official 
 or educated Javanese wears a sword, not so much to protect him- 
 self against the beasts of the jungle, as to use it in vindication 
 of wounded self-esteem. He is a duellist. So excitable is the na- 
 tional sense of honor, that no words of insult or opprobrium are 
 ever heard among them without provoking instant chastisciuent. 
 Killing in the duel is not accounted murder. 
 
 liadhe Adepathe, attended by a half-caste interpreter, stood 
 waiting to receive us before the palace-door, under a gilded um- 
 brella, of form and dimensions not unlike the "sounding-board" 
 of old-fi'.sliioned New-England churches. The interpreter inquired 
 in l''rench whether the guests were Mr. Seward and family. Being 
 answered, he presented each of us to the regent, Avho, with a step 
 of conscious majesty, conducted Mr. Seward and the ladies individ- 
 ually under the gorgeous umbrella, through the portico and into 
 the grand reccption-liall of the palace. Tie seejncd seventy years 
 old, and was careless-ly dressed. His countenance indicated greiif 
 shrewdness, his voice and manner were studiously deferential. Ih' 
 disi)layed, however, a disagreeable impatience and even petulance. 
 
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 Mill 
 
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 ii»»- 
 
 1 
 
326 
 
 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. 
 
 m 
 
 'IT 
 
 lie devolved on the interpreter the duty of showing ns our apart- 
 ments. We thought his expressions of politeness sinister, and con- 
 ceived at once a strong dislike for hiin. The overawed interpreter 
 blundered, and conducted each guest to an apartment designefl for 
 the other. The regent, discovering the mistake, rose to the frenzy 
 of a " Blue Beard." He hobbled after us and corrected the blun- 
 der with vehement objurgations. We did not understand a word 
 of the reproof, but we all take notice that the unlucky Malay ^vllo 
 thus combined the offices of interpreter and chamberlain, in tlie 
 " royal " household, has not appeared since. 
 
 At seven o'clock we were summoned to the great hall, where the 
 regent received us. "What a transformation ! lie was now attired 
 in royal Javanese costume, far more elaborate than that of the Pra- 
 wiro da Kedya. His countenance was serene, his manner gentle, 
 his discourse easy and courteous. He seemed twenty years younger. 
 He banished our dislike at once, by telling us, with a humorous 
 grimace, which none, but those who have actually known what the 
 twinges of the gout are, can affect, that he is a chronic sufferer from 
 that malady. When our host was seated in the centre of the room, 
 three male dwarfs, neatly dressed in native scarlet livery, with tur- 
 baned heads and naked feet, timidly entered an 1 crouched on the 
 floor behind their master. One held a sword ar.d folded umbrella, 
 another, a box filled with smoking-tobacco, pipes, and cigars ; the 
 third, a brazier of charcoal. The three mutely and unceasingly 
 studied the varying expressions of the regent's face. A Malay 
 served first schnapps, then port-wine and madeira. Dwarf num- 
 ber two now offered pipes, cigars, and cigarettes ; thereupon the 
 regent ejaculated " Appee," when the brazier-bearing pigmy sprang 
 quickly forward. In obeying a command, each dwarf, as he ap- 
 proached master or guest, dropped on his knees and bowed his fore- 
 liead to the floor, then assuming a natural position, made the ser- 
 vice required. When it was completed he performed a " salani," 
 and crept backward to his place behind the regent. Not only 
 these dwarfs, but eacli servant in the palace, the regent's own son 
 and heir, a youth of twenty-one, and every- native admitted to the 
 presence, practises the same servile obeisance. The chief, on his 
 
THE REGENT'S INCOME. 
 
 327 
 
 part, does not deign to incline his head toward the servant, child, 
 or subject, to whom he speaks, but, on the contrary, aftectedly 
 looks away from or beyond him. 
 
 The palace, the grounds, and the town dependent on it, are 
 much more spacious than those at Sjiandjiocr, and abound with 
 evidences of the regent's wealth. His annual stipend is one hun- 
 dred and sixty thousand guilders, about eighty thousand dollars. 
 At tirst it puzzled us to know how a barbarian can use such an in- 
 come, but ue were not long in finding a solution. In part, it is 
 laid out in gems and jewels for personal ostentation, in part for the 
 support of his family, in part for maintaining his corps of " baya- 
 deres " (ballet and singing girls), and a band of musicians, in part 
 in keeping up the most costly stud on the island, and the residue 
 in support of a large number of relations and dependants. The 
 crescent dominates everywhere in Java, and doubtless the mosque 
 draws heavily on the princely revenues. 
 
 After an elaborate dinner, the day has ended, as at Sjiandjioer, 
 with a native serenade. 
 
 •ill". 
 
 1 
 
 
 r' 
 
 h 
 
 Ei^ 
 
 i 
 
 »» 
 
 * 
 
 A nOBTELRY IN JAVA. 
 
CHAPTEE IV. 
 
 'I 
 
 
 if/?. SEWARD AT BANDONG. 
 
 Excursion to the Cascade. — A Perilous Road. — The Water-Fall. — An Evening at the 
 Pa'ace. — The Bayaderes. — Two Dwarfs. — A Chorus of Peasants. — The Little Prin- 
 cesses. — An Excursion to Tankoeban. — Peruvian Bark. — The Top of the Volcano, 
 — An Enchanting Scene. — The Javanese Prince. 
 
 Bandong, January 23c?. — It rained all night. Bad as we knew 
 the roads must be, the regent nevertheless ordered out his iniiiiense 
 European carriage, with six horses, for an excursion to the " Cas- 
 cade," which is one of the wonders of the island. We wore attended 
 by a detachment of heavy dragoons in Dutch unifornis, barefooted 
 postilions, and turbaned footmen. At the foot of every hill, and 
 at e\ery slough, a crowd of peasants appeared, as if summoned bv 
 previous command, to drag or push our unwilling wheels. It was 
 like a royal progress, such as Queen Elizabeth used to make in tlie 
 sixteenth century. 
 
 Twelve miles from the town, we found twenty-five saddle- 
 horses, a complement of sedan-chairs, and fifty peasants, awaitiiii!: 
 us. Taking so many of these animals, vehicles, and men, as we had 
 need of, we descended successive hills terraced with pale-green rice- 
 fields, and glossy dark coffee-groves. The mounted members (»f 
 the party agree that, in all their experience, they never had so ])er- 
 ilous an exercise ; but the horses, as well as the bearers of the 
 chairs, were well trained and sure of foot. Although an animal 
 occasionally stumbled, and a chair-bearer lost his balance, we never- 
 
A WATEPv-FALL. 
 
 320 
 
 theless accompiislied the journey down the slippery precipices with- 
 out serious accident. 
 
 The river Grootc forms the canal which we have described at 
 Batavia. That river here bears the euphonious name of Tjoerock 
 Tjikapocndoeng. The torrents by which it is formed meet in the 
 crorges above this place, and it makes a perpendicular leap of sev- 
 enty feet into a dell, the sides of which are studded with lofty tree- 
 turns festooned with orchids. The cascade in form and movement 
 Ims a parallel in some of the many leaps of the West Canada Creek 
 at Trenton, but its forest surroundings can have their like nowhere 
 but within the tropics. After the first pleasing impression of the 
 scene was over, we compared notes together, saying how absurd it 
 must seem that we, who live almost in sound of Niagara, should 
 have come this long distance to see a petty water-fall under the 
 equator. Soon, however, we were made to understand that, for 
 those to whom our cataract of thunder is unknown, this shining 
 cascade is worthy of all admiration. The imagination of the na- 
 tives has peopled the dell with gentle fairies of the air, and loving 
 water-sprites. The Dutch gentleman who accompanied us had 
 never seen any water-falls but the waste-weirs of the canals in 
 Holland. He was aAve-stricken in the presence of Tjoerock Tjika- 
 poendoeng. While to us the combination of sparkling water, 
 dainty ferns, and breathing flowers was simply beautiful, it was 
 for him sublime. So it is that accident or circumstance often 
 determines our tastes and sentiments. 
 
 Tliis evening the regent conducted us to the private palace in 
 wliich his family reside. Apologizing for his wife's absence by 
 reason of indi'rposition, he placed us in the centre of a spacious and 
 lofty hall, softly lighted with tinted globe lamps, and graced with a 
 curious medley of portraits of European celebrities — among them 
 the Prince of Wales, the Queen of the iS etherlands, Jenny Lind, 
 and Lola Montez. Wc were the only guests. A band of twenty- 
 live native musicians was stationed on the porch. Hundreds of 
 tlie peasantry of Bandong crowded the guard in front. The musi- 
 cians played, in a low tone, a recitative accompaniment. Soon after 
 this began, four " bayaderes," one after the other, glided into the 
 
 ^ .1, 
 
 aw* ; ^ 
 
330 
 
 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. 
 
 mem 
 
 
 1 
 
 room, with a movement in liarmony with the music. They wore 
 apparently ei<^hteen years of a^e, and had that " golden " complex- 
 ion which in the East is the highest type of beauty. The regent 
 explained that the " bayadere " amusement was derived from the 
 ancient Hindoos. The costimie of the performers has the same 
 origin. It consists of a long, scant scarlet skirt, fastened above the 
 waist, and tailing in folds quite over the bare feet. A stiilened 
 band of scarlet and gold, ten inches wide, is drawn tightly about 
 the waist, fitting just under the shoulder-blades, leaving the arms 
 and shoulders entirely bare. The monture was a burnished helmet. 
 AYondering at this barbaric magnificence, Mr. Seward askeO the 
 
 DANPIN0-C08TUME. 
 
 regent whether the helmet was gilded. He quickly answered in 
 Javanese, that not only the helmet, but also the heavy girdle, the 
 bracelets, and anklets, were of solid gold, and added in English, 
 " California." Three ballets were performed ; it was not difficult 
 
A JAVANESE TOM THUMB. 
 
 331 
 
 to understand the spirit of each. Tlic first, gay and joyous, repre- 
 sented a nuptial ceremony ; the second, energetic and vigorous, a 
 battle, with ambuscade, surprise, struggle, and victory ; the third, 
 
 DANCINO-OIBL. 
 
 deep-toned and measured, a funeral pageant. The dancing con- 
 sisted of slow and varied posturing and extravagant gesticulation, 
 to the broken and imperfect time of the wild music. The " baya- 
 deres " were not the only performers of the evening. There were 
 two dwarfs, the eldest thirty years old, well proportioned and agile, 
 and a counterpart of Tom Thumb. In the other, the peculiar 
 Malay figure and features were exaggerated to absolute deformity. 
 The regent took especial delight in this lusus naturce^ and laughed 
 immoderately at the little creature's big head and bandy legs. We, 
 who at home are more pained than pleased by the exhibitions of 
 General Tom Thumb and his Liliputian wife, could not sympathize 
 here with the barbarian prince. It was with difficulty that wc sup- 
 pressed our disgust when the pitiable dwarfs were put forward as 
 
 1 
 
 \ 
 
 
 it 
 
 til 
 
 yft)- 
 
 l 
 
 
 •1 
 
 k i 
 

 TIIK EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. 
 
 
 
 harlequins in tlio historical pantomimes which the "bayaderes" 
 were executing. 
 
 Dwarfs here remain the same important personages they were 
 in European courts three hundred years ago. We ouglit to 
 have mentioned that the lladhc Adepathe maintains seven ot 
 them. 
 
 The performance of the night had a very pleasing intcrhido. 
 While the artistes were resting in the intervals, the guard at the 
 door opened the way to a chorus 'of peasants. They executed a 
 grotesipie dance, which gave unbounded delight, not only to our- 
 selves, but to the unbidden native spectators outside. In the midst 
 of this diversion, two children of the regent, girls of four and five, 
 and very small, came in with their attendants, dressed in (piecnly 
 satin robes and jewels. He presented them to us with niai ii'e.u 
 ])ride, and, although they trembled daring the ceremony, they per- 
 formed their little parts with all the formality of women. 
 
 We saw the " bayadere " in Japan, and have now seen her in 
 Java. She is, as we understand, a universal character in the East. 
 Before the innovations of Buddha, the Bramins were an exclu- 
 sive religious class in India. They constituted a priesthood, like 
 the family of Aaron among the Jews. Descended from the gods, 
 their persons were sacred. By a cunning artifice, they reconciled 
 their followers to the consecration of women to their service. 
 These women were selected at an early age from the highest fami- 
 lies, reared and educated in the temples in the feminine arts and 
 accomplishments; as well as in mysteries of religion. Such were 
 originally the " bayaderes." If Madame Eoland, in view of the 
 agonies of the state of France, exclaimed, " O Liberty, what 
 crimes are committed in thy name ! " how much more might we 
 exclaim, in view of this wicked imposture, what crime has not 
 superstition perpetrated against the virtue of the human race! 
 While, as we are told, the institution among the Hindoos retains 
 its religious character, it has been copied withoiit that character 
 throughout the East, whatever forms of religion may prevail, A 
 troupe of bayaderes is considered a necessary ornament in the 
 court of every prince, and in all rich families. They are allowed 
 
THE VOLCANO OV TANKOEUAN. 
 
 333 
 
 the education and accompllslinicnts wliicli arc denied the sex gen- 
 erally, without being held to the practice ot virtue. 
 
 January 2if/i. — An excursion to-day with the same cortege 
 and retinue as yesterday, to the smouldering volcano of Tankoe- 
 hiui. What a transt'onnation in the person of the young prince! 
 Hitherto we had seen him barefooted, and in a mean sarong, kneel- 
 ing and lying at his father's feet like a slave. To-day he has donned 
 a manly and even princely costume. Booted and spurred, he 
 mounted a spirited horse, and led our expedition. 
 
 Leaving our carriages in a pretty village, at the foot of the 
 mountain, and taking saddle-horses and chairs, we made the ascent 
 ill live hours, by an excavated zigzag path, the construction of 
 ^vl'ieli would have been im})0ssiblc for any engineer other than a 
 Javanese practiced in tlic science of mountain-irrigation. At the 
 liegiuning of the ascent, we were at the elevation whit-h the coflee- 
 troe most affects. The orchards arc very luxuriant ; rising a hun- 
 dred feet higher, we came to a plain covered Avith the Cincliona 
 calisaija, as the tree is called, which furnishes the medicine known 
 world-wide as the Peruvian baric, in its various forms. The culture 
 lirts been introduced here, quite recently, from Bolivia. The trees 
 arc yet young, and we are unable to determine their ultinuite size. 
 The liesident informs us that the enterprise has already proved a 
 success. He has shipped more than seven tons of the bark to Hol- 
 land, taken from only the smaller branches or twigs of the trees. 
 The next plateau gave us a view of the sugar cultivation ; a still 
 liiglicr one yields cabbages, potatoes, and other esculents for the 
 supply of the markets on the sea-shore. Kative timber grows 
 upon the mountain-sides to the very summit, live thousand feet 
 above the sea. The forests arc chiefly of teak ; the undergrowth, 
 tree-ferns, with a great variety of flowering and fruit-bearing 
 vines. We recognize the raspberry, although not belonging to 
 any species cultivated with us. Troops of peasantry went before 
 us and prepared the way by cutting steps on the most rugged 
 declivities. 
 
 We reached, at last, a plain covered with flre-blasted Irces ; sul- 
 
334 
 
 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. 
 
 "9 
 
 'u 
 
 4 
 
 pliurous fiiines impregiuited the atmosphere, and a clammy moist. 
 lire cliilled us through and through. Following a circuitous ].ath 
 through this desolate scene, we reached the brink of the double cra- 
 ter, four or five miles in circumference and one thousand feet deep. 
 There have been two crui)tions in such close proximity that oiilv a 
 low ridge or promontory separates the craters. At the bottom of 
 cither crater, there is a dark, yellow lake — or, rather, there is one 
 lake extending over the bottoms of both — divided by a natural 
 bridge. On the north shore or beach of this double lake, open 
 chasms send up, from fiery springs, through dense clouds of smoke, 
 a perpetual column of biazing sulphur. Another spring, somewhat 
 higher, seethes like a vast furnace, as it jiours forth column after 
 colunin of mingled mud and gaseous fluid, with rcverberatiii<: 
 sounds like thunder. The banks of solid rock are almost jjcrpeii- 
 dicidar. CJathering clouds, driven by strong winds from the wc'^t- 
 ward, when they reach the precipice, roll in broad volumes down 
 its sides into the abyss ; absorbing, then, the sulphurous fumes, 
 they rise on the oi)pbsite side of the crater, charged with their luin- 
 eral burden, which they distribute, on their return to the upjier air. 
 While contem])latiiig these gigantic eilbrts of Nature, continued 
 through ages, to resume her lost trampiillity and silence, we were 
 shivering with cold and hunger. The plain surnmnding the vul- 
 cano, and indeed the entire surface of the mountain-sunnuit, thouijli 
 covered with such vegetation as the mineral blasts allow to fiourisli, 
 is incrusted with volcanic ashes, like those which buried Pouipeii 
 and other cities on the slopes of Vesuvius. In desccMiding, we 
 ])cered constantly through the forest, to get sight of the ti<;er, 
 which is the terror of tlu. island. Our gtiides, though armed 
 against him, inforuied us that the beast has become wary, and iki 
 longer attacks men in bands. 
 
 Earth can h.avc no scene more enchanting th;in the dark, tower- 
 ing mountains, shading off into verdant plains, which s|)rea(l bcfdrc 
 our eves as we made our way back to the village we had left in 
 the morning. AVe overtook, as we thought, the very clouds which 
 we ha<l s(>en rolling through the snliihiirous crater, and, drivinir 
 through them, were drenched with rain. Then, again, wlien the 
 
DUTCH RULE IN JAVA. 
 
 335 
 
 pun shone out, avc trod the silvev lining of other clouds, which 
 were i)ouring their floods upon illuniinuted ])hiins below. 
 
 A dinner, with good wine, and plenty of it, which our young 
 thief had ordered, iiwaited us at the foot of the mountain, and he 
 now ])resided right royally over the welcome entertainment. A 
 second dinner at the })alace closed the day. 
 
 We have come to like our host vastly. He is genial and joyous 
 in liis intervals of gout, and, by a certain sympathy, has come to 
 uiidcrstand much ctf our English, and to make us comprehend his 
 viriKUidar. America is a subject of inexhaustible interest to him. 
 lie understands it so well, that when Mr. Seward asked him to 
 what country he thought William Freeman, the colored servant, 
 who speaks English, and wears a European costume, belonged, he 
 iviilied, "■ He was born in America, the son of a slave.'' He was 
 entertaining us to-day Avitli accounts of his great ancestry, when 
 nur young Dutch companion asked him what evidence he had of 
 this lineage. He answered, with spirit, "What evidence have we 
 that we all descended from Adam and Eve in the garden of Eden ? " 
 The Dutch seem constantly on the watch for treachery on his part. 
 r.ut suspicion is the punishment of usurpation. It apprehends dis- 
 Kiyalty and treachery on every side. Would it be treason, indeed, 
 in this humiliated and pensioned wearer of twelve diamond-hilted 
 ancestral swords, to strike with them a blow for the lost sceptre of 
 his tribe ? 
 
 For ourselves, we cannot but think that the Dutch rule in this 
 island, after two hundred years of trial, with their successive wars, 
 is at last safelv e^^tablished. It can onlv be shaken now by tvrannv 
 so extreme and \iolent as to arouse to resistance a simple race who 
 as yet have nevir accpiircd the lirst idea either of personal freedom 
 or uf national inde]>endeuco. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 tM 
 
 49 
 
 II 
 t 
 
 AT BATAVIA AdAIN.—TlIE MALAYS. 
 
 Farewell to nandoiifr. — A Tropical Breakfast. — A Breakfast in the Botanieal Ganlonj.— 
 A Princely Native Artist. — Dutch Colonization. — Character of the .Malay Uace.— 
 Chinese Imnii'Tation. 
 
 liatavia, January 2~>t/i. — Wo bade farewell to the nianfiiiticciit 
 chief of I'aiuloiig, at sunrl.se yestcnlay, and we breaklluited with him 
 at Sjiaudjioer, enjoviiioj in both cases the honors of music and tlie 
 golden nnd)rella. We bathed and slept last night in the rof^e-pir- 
 dens of Sindanlava. At noon to-day, we reentered the palace of 
 Ihiitenzorg, which name, we now learn, was borrowed IVoni tl 
 
 'n' 
 
 If 
 
 1 
 
 )alace of Frederick the (Ireat at Potsdam — iSa?is-soiicL 
 
 A pretty illustration of tropical life greeted us here. The gov- 
 ernor-general was absent ; the ladies were just assembled at Itrcak- 
 fast in the coolest of mai'ble halls, dressed in tlie </i(/(fi/,',' Imliii 
 whirh the Kir'opeans have adopted from the natives here: hair full- 
 ing natuiMlly ovi-r the sliotdders, the white " short-g(»wii " nf c;;!' 
 grandniothri's, made fmciful witli rulHesand bright buttons; a giiv- 
 colnn-d muslin skii't {mroiuj)^ not fastened by a belt, but softly I'mM 
 ed around tlu' tigiire; naked feet thrust int<» gold-endo'didcri'l 
 slippers. AlU'i" .-Inring theif breakfast with us, they loaded I'lii 
 earriages with roses and passion-tlowers, and lotuses, each tlowi r iii 
 itself a boutpu't. it was with sincere ami unali'ected regret that wo 
 parted with oui* newly-made fi'iends, and so we are here i»nci' iimri 
 
 
 till' l!(»tanical 
 
 "1 ;i larger aiw 
 ill iiur e\|ici'ii 
 uT.'ici'thl girall'i 
 :iM(| splendid j 
 
A SOCIAL BREAKFAST. 
 
 337 
 
 iiii-al Ganlon-;.— 
 Malay Uact'.— 
 
 ;it our Datavi.i lionic, after a wcok in the country, tilled with tlie 
 kiiuletft of hosj)italities and most valuable of instructions. 
 
 
 UATll AT HINDA.NLAYA. 
 
 tons ; a piy- 
 it softly \'"\'\- 
 -('iiil»!""i<li'n"l 
 
 acli tlowir i!i 
 -n'l-ct 1 1 lilt we 
 
 W (IllCl' llll'l'l 
 
 J(niy((/\'/ 'li^fJi. — The KesidtMit of the ])n)vince ol' P.atavia. M'ith 
 t!io ladii'S of his family, ,ii;ave u>, this nioi'iiiiiir, a social hi'cakfast in 
 tlic llotMiiical (iai'(lcns, under arciiiiiu' iKinyan-trees, in the [H'csi'iicc 
 nf II l;n\'cr and i^-aver assianhlv llian excr lictore has liMMccd a feast 
 ill dur ('Xperience. Tliesc s'pectator.s were iiujuisilivc monkeys, 
 ;:i':iccfid ii'lralles, noMi' lions, mau'iiiticent tiu'ers, loijiiacioiis parrots, 
 and splendid peacocks, not to s[»cak of hirds-ot-paradise. In short. 
 
 
333 
 
 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. 
 
 i-'i: 
 
 
 tlic Zoological Museum was the scene of our festivity. When the 
 repast was over, wo visited the museum, which is very rich in 
 Malay antiquities and curiosities, chiefly war and official costumes, 
 ornaments, and weapons, from all parts of the Eastern Archipeluiro. 
 
 The Hall of the Council of the Indies, in the government pal- 
 ace, is a spacious one, and adorned appropriately with a full collec- 
 tion of life-size portraits of the successive governors-general. 
 
 Java is proud of the native prince Rahden Saleh, who in Europe 
 acquired great proficiency in the arts of painting and architecture. 
 His most celebrated artistic achievements are, the Botanical Gar- 
 dens, in which we breakfasted ; a fine portrait of the governor-gen- 
 eral (Myer) ; and his own Italian villa, in the suburbs of Batavia. 
 
 Mr. Pell gathered at his table, in the evening, a pleasant partv 
 of Americans. This island is visited more by Americans than bv 
 any other class of travellers. 
 
 Batavia- Idoads, Steamer Singapore^ January 'itOth, Eveninfj,— 
 To avoid an early and precipitate embarkation to-morrow, we pro- 
 cured a steaui-tender, and came on board a packet still smaller than 
 the Koningin der Nederlanden. 
 
 What we have seen in Java, and learned there of oiner island*, 
 justifies us in pronouncing the Dutch colonization in the Ea>t 
 Indies a great and beneficent success. Less than twenty thou- 
 sand Dutch colonists have established over a native population 
 of seventeen millions the sway of the mother-country, which luiiu- 
 bers only four millions. Notwithstanding occasional insurrections, 
 that sway may be regarded as firmly estal)lished. It ouj^.it to 
 enhance our admiration of tho enterprise, that, during two hun- 
 dred years of its history, the Netherlands had to overcome not 
 alone the natives of the islands, l)ut also to maintain an almost 
 constant confiict with European com])etitors in these distant seas 
 — Portugal, Spain, France, and (ireat Britain. Its administra- 
 tion is severely criticised in British circles, on the ground of it> 
 wearing too prominently the features of narrow mercantile monop- 
 oly. Although these features must be admitted to be tyrannical, it 
 cannot be denied, on the other hand, that the Dutch Government 
 
 has practised 
 Archipelago 
 the United Si 
 exterminated 
 slavery on t 
 The Dutch d( 
 The island h.n 
 and has also 
 as wo can pc 
 content, and 
 overlooked tl 
 cise of politic 
 religions, enc( 
 so generally t 
 his own lano 
 admitted that 
 sonal liberty 
 the ^[alavs : i 
 civilization of 
 dencc, /e mu 
 ress of civilizf 
 The Mala 
 branches. 1 
 covcrei's on t 
 Java, were C( 
 emerged fron 
 int 'llectuaHy 
 ercrs alleged 
 oxcclled all 
 gruous does t 
 an instinct ra 
 the same Eii 
 treacherous, w 
 tractable peo 
 liramins of 1 
 vast proportio 
 
 11 
 
THE MALAY RACE. 
 
 339 
 
 lias practised far less severity and cruelty toward the natives of the 
 Arc'liil>elag;o than Spain, and Great Britain, and their successors 
 the United States, have practised in America. IloUand has neither 
 exterminated native populati(jns in the Archipelag'O, nor imposed 
 [ilavery on them, nor introduced African slavery among them, 
 riic Dutch development of tlie resources of Java has heen effective. 
 The island has an agriculture surpassing that of any other country, 
 and has also a valuable and increasing foreign commerce. So tiir 
 as we can perceive, it is free alike from political and social dis- 
 content, and certainly it is free from pauperism. Xor is it to l)e 
 overlooked that the Malays have been raised to the partial exer- 
 cise of political functions. The government, while it toKjrates all 
 religions, encourages missionary instruction, and maintains schools 
 so generally that a Javanese who is unable to read and Avritc in 
 his own language is exceptional. At the same time it must be 
 admitted that no such vivitying social sentiments as those of per- 
 sonal liberty and national independence have been conceived by 
 the Malays ; and, while we can no longer doubt that the ultimate 
 civilizafion of the whole human race is within the design of Provi- 
 dence, 'c must reconcile ourselves to laws which render the prog- 
 ress of civilization slow, and seemingly uncertain. 
 
 The Malay race is not homogeneous ; it has many distinct 
 branches. The branches which were found by the European dis- 
 coverers on the peninsula, and on the islands of Sunuitra and 
 Java, were compact and organized states, which had long before 
 emerged from the tribal condition. Nevertheless, the Malays are 
 int Uectualiy as well as physically feeble. The European discov- 
 erers alleged that they could not count ten. But in one art they 
 .'xeelled all mankind — this was the art of irrigation. So incon- 
 grnons does this skill seem to be, that we might almost deem it 
 an instinct rather than an ac(piirement of the Malays. Although 
 the same Eiu'opean cxjilorers describe the J^falays as subtle and 
 treacherous, we are obliijed to conclude that thev are a docile and 
 tractaljle ])eople. Tlsty received their earliest religion frotn tlu! 
 hraniius of India, as is proved by the ruins of Hindoo temples of 
 vast proportions and great magniticence. They exchanged that re- 
 
 
540 
 
 TITE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. 
 
 tl ■ 
 
 H •».■ ' 
 
 t *. '- 
 « 
 
 23 I 
 
 I 
 
 ■Jit 
 
 « 
 
 Hf^ion, with entire docility, for the faith of the crescent, which was 
 brought to them from Arabia by the apostles of Mohammed. There 
 was one occasion, indeed, in their history when they proved intrac- 
 table and hostile. At the time of the arrival of the Europeans, not 
 only the Malayan Peninsula, but Sumatra, Java, and Borneo, were 
 found the field of active Chinese colonization. The European his- 
 torians represent that the natives sought to exterminate the Chinese 
 immigrants here, on exactly the same grounds that Chinese inimi- 
 gration is opposed in the United States, namely, u fear that it 
 would establish a system of heathen barbarism. In this native re- 
 sistance to Chinese colonization, the European adventurers con- 
 curred and co(>perated for a long time. But it has, at last, happih- 
 ceased. The Dutch East India Cxovernment, as well as the Jh-itish 
 Government at Singapore, are now effectively engaged in promot- 
 ing that immigration in their respective colonies. 
 
 JAVANG8B. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 FROM BATAVIA TO MADRAS. 
 
 An Uncomfortable Steamer. — An Accident. — At Singapore. — British Ilospitality. — Tlie 
 I'oit of Penang. — A Loyal Englit^hman. — Bay of Bengal. — Ilalf-Wny Bound the 
 World. — Arrival ut Ceylon. — Point do Gallc. — A Short Visit to the Shore. — A 
 Hindoo Crew. — OfT Ponuicherry. 
 
 Sfeame.' Slnffajwre, Jamtary ^\st. — If one wishes to learn liow 
 skilfully common-carriers, demanding tlie liiglicst rates for freight 
 and passage, can inflict the greatest discomfort, we recommend to 
 him a lesson on the Singapore. She was appointed to leave I>atavia 
 oil the 2r)th, while the British steamer to Ceylon was to leave Sin- 
 gapore on February 1st. But the Singapore, which is the slowest 
 vessel of the line, did not sail until the 27th. Notwithstanding 
 this change of time, we hoped for two days of rest at Singapore. 
 The cabin is a dove-cote — the holes are reached from the deck by a 
 perpendicular ladder. AVe had the whole dove-cote to ourselves 
 the night we lay in the roads at Batavia. The next night, and all 
 other nights, we escaped from its stifling imprisonment by having 
 our mattresses spread on the deck and protected by awnings. Our 
 new lodging was made intolerably noisy by the incessant tramp of 
 passengers, ofliccrs, seamen, ami servants. A dozen milch-cows 
 were hauled by their horns on dock, before we left pert. Fifty 
 miles at sea, one of them mutinied, and leaped overboard ; the 
 
 ship gave her stern-chase, bow-chase, and cross-chase, for five hours ; 
 88 
 
342 
 
 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. 
 
 1 -; • 
 
 J' 
 
 * " 
 11 « 
 
 it Wcis an unequal chase, but steam-power, baffled so long, prevailed 
 at last. 
 
 During the night, when we were crossing the mouth of tlio 
 straits of Sunda, a northwest monsoon put the steamer to anctlar 
 trial. The condenser gave way at midnight, and the vessel he- 
 came a log. AVe, who were wakeful and alarmed, saw the officers 
 hurrving backward and forward, whispering ratlier than proclaim. 
 ing their commands. We overiieard them discoursing how to make 
 up th ' shi))'-^ detijieney in life-boats in case she should be driven 
 on th :^p ich.. It was a new experience to go down, in that tein- 
 pestuo- ilg. 1 into the seething ship's hold, and take our iiionev 
 from oui Irnnkt. .. 'd prepare for the apprehended disaster. AVluu 
 might not be our fate, if, escaping from the perils of the sea, we 
 should reacli the savage shore of Sumatra i Should we encounter 
 there serpents, wild-beasts, cannibals? The storm, however, re- 
 lented a little; after working the pumps, and hammering on the 
 condenser, the engineer repaired the broken machinery, and the 
 vessel resumed her course. 
 
 AVe were demoralized by travel in this intemperate climate, 
 The coarse food was not at all to our liking; we fell back on the 
 fruits. The first day, lemons, limes, even bottled lemonade, were 
 exhausted; the next day, the oranges, bananas, and ])ineaiij)lcs; 
 the third day, and afterward, we had stale bread and bad coU'ec. 
 We have arrived here at midnight, on the fifth day of our vovaire, 
 No signal has been given of the steamer, and we therefore sleep 
 on board, although we are to embark on the Behar for Ceylon, to- 
 morrow. 
 
 Steamer Behar, Straits of Malacca, February 1st. — The nnin- 
 structed telegraph, at dawn, signalled the Singapore as a Dutdi 
 man-of-war. N*jbody expected Mr. Seward in a belligerent char- 
 acter, especially under a Dutch flag. Governor Ord and Consul 
 Jewell, however, discov(M*ed the mistake, and took us ashore after 
 long delay. The true English hospitality of Sir George and Ladv 
 Ord, at Government House, soon banished the remembrance of the 
 perils and privations of our recent voyage. 
 
THE STRAITS OF SUNDA. 
 
 343 
 
 Strerif^fli commands respect, and success, at last, overpowers 
 envy. The same European populace of Singapore, which, only 
 a very few years ago, cheered the American rebel Semmes, when 
 he wont out and came in there from his traitorous depredations on 
 unprotected national commerce, now followed our little American 
 party to the wharf, and, as the Behar cast oif her lines at four 
 o'clock, they shouted, with evident good-will : " Three cheers for 
 Govenior Seward, three cheers for the ladies ! " " Well," said Mr. 
 Sewiird, "let it be so ; it is not an unwholesome instruction that the 
 nation which would enjoy the respect of other nations must retain 
 its claim to it by union and courage," 
 
 f.— The unin- 
 |c as a Dutch 
 ligerent char- 
 1 and Consul 
 is ashore after 
 )V'^e and Lady 
 nbrance of the 
 
 Pcnang, Fehruary itd. — As the straits of Sunda arc hr? cus- 
 tomary channel of vessels which round Cape Horn for Jav.i, ( ina, 
 and Japan, so the straits of Malacca are the proper passii^^c foi' ves- 
 sels of like destination, which come by the way of the Cape of Good 
 Hope. The British Government has, with its usual sagacity, 
 secured the ancient town of Malacca on the Malay Pe. nsula. The 
 straits are four hundred miles long. We have made the passage 
 hither in forty-two hours, seeing often the high hills of Sumatra on 
 our left, and the flat Malay Peninsula always in view on our right. 
 The straits here are seven miles wide, and deep enough for vessels 
 of the liirgest size. The mountainous, wooded island of Penang 
 rises abruptly out of the sea, and lesser islands lend a picturesque 
 aspect to the harbor. 
 
 The port of Penang, sometimes called Georgetown, with a pop- 
 ulation of four thousand, may, some time ago, have flourished, but 
 it is now in a condition of neglect and decline. The population of 
 theisliuid of Penang is fort}'^ thousand. Governor Ord, like every 
 one else in this region, represents the Malays as improvident and 
 idle. He bases his hope of the prosperity of the settlement upon 
 Chinese immigration. Among the twenty or thirty boats, which 
 came oft* here for passengers and freight, only one was Malay ; all 
 the others were Chinese built, and manned by Chinese. 
 
 We have improved, as best we could, the six hours' stay with 
 which the Behar has indulged us here. In carriages, with Hindoo 
 
U4: 
 
 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. 
 
 
 ■ m 'It 
 
 
 drivers, wc made great speed, over a Bniootli road, to sec a cascade 
 on the AVcst Mountain, two thousand feet above the sea. The 
 people whom we passed, on the roadside, were often standinn^ or 
 reclining in careless and picturesque attitudes, under the coccia-mit 
 and arika palms. They seem effeminate and languid. Manitestlv, 
 however, they bestow careful attention on their costumes, grace- 
 fully made up of pure white or bright-colored turbans, Howiiii; 
 sashes, and gay sarongs. 
 
 There is an approximation to similarity in the dwellings of the 
 Malays and Chinese here, while the foreign bungalows exliibit ;; 
 sad corruption of European architecture, without gain from the 
 Oriental. On all sides, and at every turn, there are swiiigin<r 
 sign-boards, which announce "Licensed to sell ardent spirits." If 
 alcohol is not admitted to be a civilizer, it cannot be denied that 
 it is a leveller. 
 
 After making a considerable descent, we reached a brawliiiir 
 torrent. We followed its bank under the shade of native forests. 
 A small plain near the foot of the cascade furnishes the site fur a 
 litt.'e, rude, adobe Hindoo temple; it has a rustic veranda, sup- 
 ported by palm-.saplings. Here wc were welcomed by Ilrainin<. 
 who were assiduously engaged in plaiting bamboo curtains, and 
 weaving garlands of mountain-flowers, for a festival tomorrow, 
 We rested awhile under this simple but beautiful upholstery, and 
 then foraged the adjoining woods for nutmegs and cloves. As- 
 cending from this plain two or three hundred feet, over roii;^Ii 
 stone steps, we came to the basin into which the torrent plunge^ 
 for a hundred feet or more, breaking into sparkling jets as it 
 dashes against glistening granite rocks. Even we, prosaic as we 
 are, could easily fancy that the caverns in the.se romantic rocks arc 
 inhabited by naiads and genii, such as arc supposed to Imldcoin- 
 munc with the imaginative disciples of the oldest and most myste- 
 rious of the religions of the East. 
 
 Sitting on benches hewn from the rock, and refreshing ourselves 
 with cool water drawn from the basin, wc looked olf upon the 
 ocean, a dozen miles distant, calm and quiet, through a vista of tree- 
 ferns, rooted high above the tops of the palms and spice-trccs whieli 
 
 Fch)'ua)'i 
 liave not ha 
 strong. AV- 
 be broken at 
 
IIALF-WAY ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 345 
 
 (jrow on the plain bt'low. Descending to the plain where we bud 
 left our ciirriagcs, we were served, at a rustic inn, with a lunch of 
 hioileil chickens and salad, and with wine from Xeres, which need- 
 ed no "bush." The proprietor, a loyal Euglishnian, did not think 
 it siiporiluous to tell us timt the foinitain in which we had bathed, 
 tlie table on which wc dined, and the cask from which the wino 
 was drawn, had all been honored with the patronage of his lioyal 
 Iligliriess the Duke of Edinburgh, llow long will "her Majesty's 
 coininand," and "his Royal llighuess's protection," serve to adver- 
 tise merchandise and inns in the East Indies? 
 
 On coming on board, wc learned with regret that our hurried 
 shore ramble had deprived us of a visit from the United States con- 
 sul. 
 
 Steamer Behar, Bay of Bengal, Fchruary Mh, — Penang city 
 and roadstead passed from our sight with the setting sun. We 
 liiivc given the Southern Islands a wide berth. 
 
 Xow at noon, while the captain is taking his daily observations, 
 Mr. Seward, pencil in hand, is making up his reckoning. "Cap- 
 tain, I think we must be near the 98th meridian of east longitude, 
 which will be half my voyage around the world." The captain 
 answered, " That light-ship, sir, which you see on our right, marks 
 the line you are incpiiring Ibr." 
 
 Little do our friends at home, in their midnight slumber, dream 
 that we are sitting, wide awake, directly over their heads. But we 
 liave a faint idea that this reflection has been made under similar 
 uircumstances before. 
 
 The calm sea-surface is broken by a vast shoal of fish, violently 
 throwing themselves into the air. "What has caused this great 
 comniotion ? " It is those two black-headed sharks peering over 
 the water— vanguard, doubtless, of a ferocious army. 
 
 Fehruat'ii 1th. — The Indian Ocean justifies its renown. We 
 have not had a wave too high, a cloud too dark, or a breeze too 
 strong, AVe are actually regretting that this dreamy voyage must 
 be broken at Ceylon to-morrow. A mattress on the deck of a Pen- 
 
846 
 
 THE EASTERN ARCIIirELAGO, ETC. 
 
 * s 
 
 « * 
 
 t « 
 
 % 
 
 9' 
 
 
 I lit 
 
 I 
 
 insular and Oriental steamer, on this ocean in February, is a luxury 
 of rest. The glarinfj, blaziu;:]^ sun has scarcely set, before the nioon 
 and stars come out in full brilliancy. The sparkling Souil^cm 
 Cross traverses a short journey across the southern horizon, vi^ihlv 
 changing its position every hour, and the tranquil night, witlioiit 
 twilight, breaks suddenly into another cloudless and joyous day. 
 
 Of Point de Galle^ February Sth. — A letter from Lord Ntipier 
 comes on board, protesting against our lingering at Ceylon, so as 
 to fall into India in the hot season. We are obliged to be content, 
 therefore, with an outside view of that famous island. We have 
 been running nearly all day along its beautiful coast. A yellow 
 beach, with dazzling breakers, fringes the forest verdure of the 
 island. That verdure extends to a height of five thousand t'cet. 
 when it gives place to a blue rocky ridge, from which rises Adam's 
 Peak, nine thousand feet, and Haycock Hill, fourteen thousand. 
 The fishing-craft here is as ingenious as its construction is peculiar. 
 Being a canoe, scooped out of the trunk of a tree, it is too narrow 
 for safety. It is, therefore, provided with a float attached to out- 
 riggers at the right side. Fleets of these boats are moving arouml 
 us, but, whatever pearls the fishermen may have taken from these 
 rich waters, are too minute for our vision. So, also, if elej^liants 
 are as numerous on the shores as they are represented to be, it 
 must be remembered that an impenetrable jungle intervenes to 
 conceal them from our sight. 
 
 Steamship Columbia^ 10 p.m., February Sth. — While we were 
 writing our latest notes, a summons came for our transshipment 
 from the Behar to this steamer. 
 
 Point do Galle, or, as it is otherwise called, Gallc, altli()u<,'li 
 described in some of the geographies as having a good harbor, has 
 just no harbor at all. It has neither bay nor roadstead, but a i)iti- 
 ful cove, into which the sea forces its way between two short ledges 
 of rock projecting from the shore. These ledges, which arc scarcelv 
 a quarter of a mile apart, seem to break the surf, and thus in fair 
 weather afford something like a tranquil anchorage. This anchor- 
 
A FEW MINUTES IN CEYLON. 
 
 347 
 
 aire, however, can aocommodato only five or six sca-pjoin*]^ vessels, 
 and every one of this number is ex[)ose(l to <xroat danger It' it loses 
 control of its ground-tackle, from hidden coral-rocks. Our fi'Uow- 
 msscnger. Colonel Garden, of the British Army of India, tells us 
 that one of these rocks wrecked and broke into pieces the steamer 
 in wliich he was enterin<^ the harbor two years ago. 
 
 This afternoon three steamers met here — the liohar bound for 
 Sncz, the Columbia for Madras, and a third for the Archipelago. 
 With these came also a Portuguese man-of-war. The liehar, just 
 betorc wo left here, collided with a large iron ship, inflicting the 
 loss (»f a boom, and sufl'ering the loss of a life-boat and stanchions. 
 We asked whether this is the best of the island ports, and were 
 answered that Colund)o, the only one available to the present trade, 
 iswiirse. Nevertheless, the cove is beautiful to look upon. The 
 shore is ten or twelve feet above the sea, and shaded with palms. 
 Here and there a fanciful bungalow may be seen peeping from 
 holiind the dense groves. On a gentle elevation h a pretty Chris- 
 tian church and spire, confronting a mosque and riinarcts not less 
 conspicuous. At the water's edge is a line of white fortifications 
 and barracks, with a lofty gateway leading to the town, built by 
 the Portuguese. These buildings, substantial and old, are shel- 
 tered by immense trees, of what sort we are unable to learn. 
 
 Teti o'clock'. — Until the moment of writing the last notes, we 
 liad entertained no hope of treading the soil of fragrant Ceylon. 
 The captain of the Columbia tendered us his service to go ashore 
 in ills launch. We made our way, not without great difficulty, 
 through the crowded shipping to the stone steps under the mediae- 
 val gateway. Ten minutes sufficed us to walk through the princi- 
 pal street. We rested under the veranda of a comlbrtable, mod- 
 ern hotel, 111 king a hundred inquiries concerning the island and 
 its wonders, continually interrupted by tempting offers of carved 
 ebony elephants. coU'ec-wood sticks, cinnamon paper-cutters, Cin- 
 pdese lace, not to speak of diamonds, pearls, rubies, and sapphires. 
 Having so soon " done " the town and island, we rowed among the 
 shipping, dodging a rudder here, a propeller there, and native raft- 
 
348 
 
 THE EASTERN AEOIIIPELAGO, ETC. 
 
 boats on every side, until a flash from the ship's f^nn summoned all 
 on board. The most inspiring incident of this day's cxperiunce 
 was the last. The moon had not risen, and the night was dark 
 and cloudy when our propeller was put in motion. A blue li^^iij; 
 on the Coluni', la's bow signalled that her movement was to be^in. 
 Instantly a brilliant torch, fed by impish natives, blazed on oai'li 
 one o*' the hundred, beacous which rose on the sharp ledges of the 
 cliji.nnel, and bOon we were moving through a maze of bonfires to 
 the ODcn sea. At this moment, a full moon, breaking through the 
 clouds, poured her silver light over land and sea, adding a new 
 and inconceivable brilliancy to the scene. 
 
 f ». .« 
 
 * » v 
 
 : 
 * • 
 
 t 
 
 L\i>/ of Bengal^ Fehniavy dth. — The route to Madras requires 
 that we retrace to the end of the island the course by which \vc 
 reached Point do Gallo. AVe are now steering northward, aioi)!,' 
 the eastern coast of Ceylon. 
 
 The island constitutes a distinct British province, and its gov- 
 ernment is under the direct supervision of the Secretary of iState 
 for India. Its people, all Cingalese, arc doubtless of IliiidDD 
 extraction. The prevailing religion, that of Buddha, we are in- 
 clined to thirdc, flourishes more vigorously there than on the ('oii. 
 tinent. British and American missionaries labor harmoniously 
 together, and report that they have one pupil in their school.-, for 
 every ninety of the native pojudation. 
 
 Wo have at last left the ('hinese, as well as the American and 
 European seamen, behind us. All our crew are Hindoos. Except 
 ourselves, all the passengers are British. They are all civil or mili- 
 tary officers of the (lovernmcnt. Within the memories of nuuiy <tt' 
 them, journeys in India were made with clephant-traina. .Vltor 
 this came the Peninsular and Oriental steamers, and now railways. 
 Busine.ss-men go directly by rail from Bond)ay to ('alcutta, while 
 tamilies prefer the slower anil easier journey by sea around rlie 
 peninsula, touching at (Ceylon. The; steamers also transport the 
 troops and stores for the Indian army. 
 
 Wo already feel that the continental empire is the one absorb- 
 ing British interest, to which Ceylon and the Straits Settlement iin- 
 
PONDICIIERRY. 
 
 349 
 
 subordinate. "What we hear discussed are the political and social 
 questions of the caj)ital, Calcutta, Our fellow-passengers condole 
 with us that our arrival will be too late for the court season. 
 
 Of Pondichervij. — It will be reuienibered that we found the 
 French in Cochin C'hina fortifying Saigon against ( J ernian invasion. 
 We heard yesterday at Point de Cialie that one of the conditions of 
 peace made by King William is the surrender of Pondicherry, the 
 only other remaining relic of French conquest in the East. Mr. 
 Seward docs not believe the report. While he thinks that France 
 may withdraw before long from the East, he thinks it quite too late 
 tor even united Germany to come here as a civilizer. It would 
 involve nothing else than an attempt at universal empire, that 
 dream which began with Alexander, and which lies buried in the 
 tomb at the Hotel des Jnvalides. 
 
 Pondicherry, without a harbor, is a dismantled city of forty 
 thousand people, lying within the limits of the province of South 
 Areot, and is distant only eighty- seven miles from l^Iadras. The 
 r)ritish have heretofore seized it four times, in as many successive 
 wars with France, and, although thoy have as often restored if, it 
 lies nevertheless com[)leteIy at their mercy. 
 
 I* 
 
 ^y 
 
t • 
 
PART IV. 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 %\ 
 
 i 
 
! £ 
 
 s 
 
 Ok 
 
 Miiilras from tl 
 School. —I 
 Macliincry 
 —The Lfg 
 
 Madras 
 aniimd the 
 k'ftSau Fr 
 (leiiu)iistrat 
 \)S a Hank i 
 
 Wo firs 
 hliie iiazc. 
 jican aspcH 
 coast. It 
 Vc'ddo, liin 
 I lie city, 
 appcaranff 
 iiig from I ! 
 
 {'aptaii 
 t(. the (■(' 
 Napier, G' 
 European, 
 tinn'orthy • 
 largo as I'" 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 MADRAS. 
 
 Madras from the Sea. — Governor Napier. — Tlie Government IIousc. — A Hindoo Girls' 
 Scliool. — IJisliop Ilebcr. — Briii;li Dominion in Indiii. — Ueiir-Atiniiiai Cocliburn. — 
 Maoliinery of (iovcrnmcnt. — A Meetinj; of tiie Executive Coimcil. — Lord Cornwallis. 
 — Tlie Legislative Council. — Hindoo Music. 
 
 Madrani Ffhruanj Wth. — Tliis voy;ii2;e of ours, westwcird 
 Mroiind the world, subjects us to singular iinprossious. Since "\ve 
 left Snn Franciwco, we have seen at every stage a more imposing 
 (K'nioiistration of European power. Thus, we are reaching Europe 
 by a flank movement. 
 
 We first saw Madras from the hoa, at a long distance, through a 
 liliie haze. It seemed commanding and beautiful, a city of Euro- 
 jican aspect, stretching eight or ten miles along the Coromandel 
 coast. It contains five hundred thousand people. Here, as at 
 Vc'ildo, large gardens intervene between the dillercnt districts of 
 the city. On coming near, its lofty buildings pres< it a dingy 
 appearance, an indication, we think, of commercial decline, result- 
 ing from the oj)ening of the railway from Bombay to Caleuttn. 
 
 Captain Xai»ier took u^ off the steamer, and brought ns directly 
 to the i'k)vernment IIousc, the official residence .>f Francis, Lord 
 .X.ipi r, Cxovernor of the Presidency of Madras. It is a palace half 
 European, half Oriental, with its proportions and apVHiinfments not 
 iinnvtrthy of a magistrate who presides <>ver a country which is as 
 Inrgc as FratK'c, and contains almost as uumy million inhabitants. 
 
 ,i 
 
 ^ 
 
 
354 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 
 «• 
 
 I R 
 
 < a. 
 
 • * 
 
 
 During Lord Napier's residence, as minister of Groat Britain In 
 the United States, a close friendship <:^rcw up between him and Mr. 
 Seward, and between their families. That friendship has continued, 
 through political and domestic vicissitudes. AVe therefore expected 
 here, as M'e desired, not so much a distinguished recejition, as a sii;. 
 cere welcome, with much-needed rest. Those wc are having, hut 
 not without such official demonstrations as we have met elsowhcro. 
 The appointments of Govern men t House arc magnificent. AVe 
 notice a major-general's staff, with a guard of horse and foot, 
 blazing in scarlet and gold ; civil secretaries, we know not how 
 many ; servants counted by the score, at the head of whom are 
 seven native butlers, and at the foot a hundred loallahs (coolies), 
 who do nothing but keep the jJ?^;«^'rt/<.9 (swinging fans) in nidtiun, 
 in every part of the house, by day and by night. In the stahlos, 
 two hundred horses; and here we may say, that they have six races 
 of the animal in India: the "Waler" from Australia, the "Cape" 
 from Good Hope, the " Aral)ian," the " Persian," and the country- 
 bred horse, a cross between the "Arabian" and "Waler," and a 
 small horse from LJurm.ih, which we like better than any pony wc 
 
 Ah 
 
 iuivo seen ni Asia. 
 
 Madras, Fehruanj Wth. — "We accompanied Lady Napier to- 
 day, at three o'clock, to an examination of a Hindoo girls'-school. 
 Prizes were distributed to one hundred pupils, all under twelve 
 years. Tliis is the age of marriage in India. Jealous and ambi- 
 tiour; parents anticipate it, by nuirrying their daughters to their 
 appointed husbands at every stage of intancy and childhood. We 
 were surprised, although wc ought not to have been so, in seeing 
 the children in this schoc^l (piito black. They have, however, 
 i-itraigikt Uair and legular features. They arc slender in form and 
 dimiuuti\"c in stature, with extremely delicate hands and feet. 
 They have a sad, pensive manner, entirely free from the content- 
 ment and abandon which are noticeable among the colored children 
 of the United States. Thousrh of manv dilierent castes, all were 
 dresseci in either bright-colored muslins or gauzes interwoven with 
 gold. Their fine black hair, their cars, their noses, their necks, 
 
t Iji'itiiiii in 
 lim and Mr, 
 8 contimieil, 
 )rc expected 
 on, .as a sin- 
 having, but 
 t elsewhere, 
 ficcnt. ^\Q 
 and foot, 
 »w not how 
 f whom arc 
 ihs (coolies), 
 ) in motion, 
 the stables, 
 ive six races 
 the "Cape" 
 the couiitry- 
 aler,'' and a 
 ny pony \vc 
 
 Napior to- 
 >i;ii'ls'-scliool. 
 nder twelve 
 s and anibi- 
 crs to their 
 Ihood. We 
 >o, in seeing 
 e, however, 
 in form and 
 Is and feet, 
 the content- 
 red chihlrcn 
 tes, all were 
 'woven with 
 then* necks, 
 
 (f) 
 
 
 u 
 
 
 
 
 tL. 
 
356 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 t » 
 
 t. m- 
 
 
 their arms, their wrists, their ankles, and their toes, were loaded 
 with ornaments of silver, gold, pearls, and precious stones. A val- 
 uation made at our request, of a set of ornaments worn by a clijld 
 of six years, gave the ligure of three hundred pounds steriini,'! 
 The prettiest costume of all was worn by a daughter of the ( on- 
 verted Hindoo matron of the institution — a green satin vest, low 
 at the neck, small short sleeves trimmed with gold lace ; white 
 skirt over which was wound a long, full, rose-colored scarf; the 
 necklace, car-rings, and nose-rings, of gold coins. From the osten- 
 tatious display of jewels, we inferred that the children had rjcli 
 ])arents. But we soon learned that these ornaments constitute the 
 entire fortune and estate of the wearer. Banks, stocks, and other 
 institutions for the investment of cai)ital, are little known or under- 
 stood by the Hindoos. 
 
 The children answered, some in the Tamil dialect, others k 
 the Tclugu, others in the Ilindostanee, Bible questions of historv 
 and geography about as well as our own Sunday-school chihhcii oi 
 the same age. They were also examined in the most simple pro- 
 cesses of arithmetic. A Tamil lyric was prettily sung by one ('Ias>, 
 Its plaintive strain recalled our negro melodies. The native air. 
 to which Tamil verses in honor of Lady Napier were sung by tlic 
 whole school, unmistakablv breathed the refrain of " Dearest Mae." 
 A Telugu lyric was less musical. Five thousand children arc cdu 
 cated in schools of this sort in Madras. Very few, however, be- 
 come Christians. 
 
 Hindoo names always are significant. "We record the names 
 of three pupils who received the iirst prizes: Ammaui, Matron; 
 Amurdum, Nectar; Sivaratura, Gem of Life. The best prize- 
 were French dolls, and were received with subdued but inuacnsc 
 delight. 
 
 A drive on the surf-beaten shore, where foreigners " most de 
 congregate," closed our first day at Madras. 
 
 Ifadms, February Vlth. — We attended morning service at the 
 cathedral, a spacious thcugli unostentatious edifice. Itwa.'^ dilficult 
 at first to compose ourselves under the constant vibration of the 
 
BISHOP IIEIJER. 
 
 357 
 
 pmikalis, wliic'h swing witliont ceasing over the licads of the large 
 cnii^'regation. The beautiful hymn which was sung recalled the 
 ineinory of Ileber, ai.d a tine marble statue in the chancel gave us 
 the classic lineaments of the great Bishop of Calcutta. He it was 
 who was "zealous for his Church, and not forgetful of his station, 
 but remembering it more for the duties than for the honors that 
 were attached to it, and infinitely more zealous for the religious im- 
 provement, and for the hapi)iness and spiritual and worldly good 
 of his fellow-creatures of every tongue, faith, and complexion." 
 
 ners "most 'h 
 
 February 14M. — How strange it seems that this dominion of 
 India, with its two hundred milli(jns of people, should be a de- 
 pendency on the two small islands of distant Great Britain, which 
 contain only thirty millions! And yet there is a reason for it. 
 Weak and ignorant tribes and nations are generally found depend- 
 ent on stronger and more enlightened ones, if not absorbed by 
 them. Tlic dominions of Portugal, which never numbered more 
 than four millions, were once nearly as extensive as those of Eng- 
 land. AVe have already seen the ri'h Eastern dominion of the 
 Httlo kingdom of the Netherlands, whose area is about that of 
 Vermont or Maryland. Indeed, it seems as if dei)endence is, at 
 some time, the normal condition of every natiiMi. All prosperous 
 nations must expand. That expansion will be made on adjacent 
 reirions if practicable ; if not practicable, it will then be made in 
 those regions, however distant, which offer the least resistance. 
 There is, however, a thought, connected with this subject, which 
 is worth dwelling upon. Why have Portugal, S])ain, and France, 
 tiiilcd to retain the foreign dominions they founded, while the 
 United States, Great Britain, and the Netherlands, continually 
 ;ui[iiire new territories, instead of losing those already secured? 
 The reasons must be found in a difference in the characters and 
 L'enius of the nations. Portugal colonized only with merchants 
 and priests, and sought to monopolize the products of her colo- 
 nics. S])ain colonized only with soldiers and jiriests, and ])rac- 
 tisod restriction, monopcdy, and extortion ; while Great Ih'itair., 
 Holland, and the United States, send out, for colonists, agricul- 
 
 24 
 
 ^ 
 
358 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 turists, mechanics, miners, and laborers ; and, when they cannot 
 do this, they int'*oduce cultivation, mining, and the mechanical 
 arts, among the conquered people. France concpiers, not tor tie 
 development and improvement of the country subdued, or t., 
 increase her own wealth and power, but chietly for the glory of 
 the concpiest. To compare great things with small, France con- 
 quers, as the sportsman kills, only to show his skill as a marks- 
 man. 
 
 
 February \Wi. — Hear- Admiral Cockburn, her Britannic Majrv 
 ty's naval commander on the East India station, arrived lierc in 
 his flag-ship, the Forte, on the 14th instant. The oftitial and 
 fashionable circles (by-the-way, both are very much one) all sliower 
 hospitalities upon him and his othcors. They were eiitcrtaineil 
 yesterday at dinner at (lovernment House, and particii>ate(l in t'lie 
 ball which was given to our party. The ball was in the p-cat 
 banqucting-hall, which is over the j>orte-coc}u:re of the palace. lb 
 roof is supported by a double row of lofty Corinthian cuhniin^, 
 Instead of walls, the sides of this tropical ballroom are of niovnUe 
 lattice-work, admitting the sea-breeze on either side. Thon<,'h \\v 
 have chronicled many ball?*, this one was too splendid to he omit- 
 ted. Like ]Mr. Seward's, however, the admiral's thoughts are not 
 much diverted by the amusements of society. He is sixty years of 
 age, a loyal and veteran British sailor, a good observer, and a zeal- 
 ous philanthropist. The chief object, at present, of the naval polire 
 which he maintains over these waters, is to supj)re8S the petty trade 
 in slaves which is still carried on between the eastern coast of 
 Africa and the shores of the Indian Ocean, the Arabian Sea, and 
 the Persian Gulf. Although the two gentlemen were entirely un- 
 known to each other, Mr. Seward had the pleasant experience of 
 finding the admiral an intelligent admirer of our country, and a 
 8ym])athizer in ]\Ir, Seward's political principles and sentiments. 
 
 The admiral has tendered us a cruise in the Forte from J?ombflv 
 to Muscat, with an excursion thence to the sites of Nineveh and 
 Babylon. This voyage, if it be practicable, will be the complement 
 of our Eastern travels. But it will require an early departure 
 
INDIAN (30VP:RNMKNT. 
 
 859 
 
 from Bombay, to avoid intolerable heat on the Euphrates as well as 
 
 l;iii 
 
 irerous monsoons in the Persian Guli'. 
 
 Fi'hruary \(Sth. — The British conquests in India are so recent, 
 tli;u the civil government can hardly yet be said to be consolidated, 
 ^^'itliin the vast territories there are three great presidencies — Ben- 
 ifivl, with (yalcnlta its capital ; Madras, its capital the city of Ma- 
 dras; and Bouibay, its capital Bombay. The northern and eastern 
 portions of the territory are divided into other provinces — the 
 X tlnvest, the Central, and the Punjanb. A viceroy, appointed 
 bv the crown for four years, resides at Calcutta, and administers a 
 form of federal goveriiment, while each presidency and province 
 lias its own local administration. There is associated with the vice- 
 roy an Executive C'^'V.ncil, whose members may be regarded as sec- 
 retaries or ministers charged with portfolios of foreign affairs, 
 tinauce, war, judiciary, po>t -office, improvements, and education. 
 This Executive Council, like a cabinet council elsewhere, attends 
 the viceroy semi-weekly or daily, as he requires. Its members arc 
 residents in India, and they are appointed by the viceroy, with the 
 consent of the crown. AVith the consent of this Executive Council, 
 the viceroy appoints all magisterial and ministerial officers. There 
 is also a Legislative Council, which consists of the same executive 
 councillors, with the addition of a few residents of India, selected 
 bv the viceroy with the approval of the crown, to represent com- 
 mercial and popular interests. This Legislative Council has also a 
 member of the British bar, appointed by the Home Government, to 
 be a le<?al adviser. In each of the councils the vicerov i)rcsides. 
 He can veto, but not without rendering his reasons immediately to 
 the crown. This Legislative Council, subject to approval from the 
 Home (lovernment, makes general laws and levies taxes. .V major- 
 ity in each council are British, but four, five, or six ])rominent na- 
 tives of India, distinguished for rank, property, or merit, are added 
 to each. The Executive Council sits with closed doors ; the Legis- 
 lative Council dei)ates in public. Its proceedings are reported as 
 fully as those of the British Parliament, or of our own Congress. 
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 structed entirely on the same model with that of the federal or im- 
 perial government just described. Thus it will be seen that tlie 
 government of British India differs from that of the United States 
 chiefly in its denial of the elective principle. All its appointments 
 are derived directly or indirectly from the crown. 
 
 The greatest social difficulty of the Government consists in con- 
 tending against the ancient laws and customs of caste. A toueliini; 
 incident, which may be regarded as showing the protest of hiimiui 
 nature against the laws of caste, has just occurred : A young native 
 woman was indicted for the murder of her child, whose father Avas 
 of £ lower caste than her own, and with which intermarriage was 
 forbidden. She confessed that she strangled the infant rather tlian 
 lose her caste. The jury, half native, half foreign, pronounced lier 
 not guilty, notwithstanding her confession. 
 
 But the government of India, as we have described it, is not 
 established in all parts of the conquered territory. Tlicre are 
 many districts, some very large ones, which still remain under the 
 government, more or less absolute and exclusive, of native heredi- 
 tary princes, not unlike the Indian " nations " in the United States. 
 All these provinces acknowledge the supremacy of the British Gov- 
 ernment, and admit of its intervention in the local administration 
 by way of advice or protest. Some of them, more independent 
 than others, retain the simple relation of allies, offensive and de- 
 fensive, with the Governn^eiit at Calcutta. Other native princes 
 submit to have their revenues collected by the Calcutta Govern- 
 ment, and even applied by it for the welfare and improvement of 
 the districts. Some admit judicial interference, others exclude it. 
 Some maintain armies, others have surrendered that power. All 
 India, doubtless, is in a transition state. Of such native districts or 
 provinces, there are encircled within the limits of the Presidency 
 of Madras, Travancore at the north end of the peninsula, Cape 
 Comoiin, !^T_),■io^c in the centre of the peninsula, and Hyderabad 
 in the northern part of the peninsula. The Prince of Mysore is 
 divested of all authority, and, while allowed his titular rank, is a 
 pensioned vassal, living under surveillatice. The other two princes 
 are allies offensive and defensive of the British crown, and are 
 
STATUE OF LORD CORNWALLIS. 
 
 301 
 
 practically independent. Mr. Seward is attentively studying the 
 working of this complex governmental machinery. He confesses 
 that he thinks it would hardly go on smoothly in the United 
 States. 
 
 If a person, native or foreign, desires an audience of the gov- 
 ernor, whether on business or not, he registers his name in the 
 visitors' book in the adjutant's office. After two weeks, more or 
 less, the governor gives notice that he will hold a public breakfast 
 at the palace, at which those who have registered their names will 
 be received. At this entertainment each person submits his appli- 
 cation in turn. 
 
 Mr. Lincoln used to receive promptly all who came to the 
 White House before four o'clock in the afternoon. Mr. Seward 
 has known many people sleep in the hall of the White House all 
 night to receive an early audience in the morning. 
 
 On the 14:tli, Mr. Seward drove with the governor to 
 Fort St. George, where his lordsbip was to hold an Executive 
 Council. Even this simple affair vvr.s made the occasion of a 
 pageant greater than is ever seen at AVashington except at inau- 
 guration. The governor was escorted by fifty sepoys, huge white 
 umbrellas were held over him and over the heads of the ministers 
 as they respectively arrived at the gate of the fortress. A corps of 
 retainers attended each up the staircase and to the door of the 
 eoimcil-cbamber. The opening of the session was announced by 
 the firing of a gun. Mr. Seward was received by the members, and, 
 after a pleasant interview, withdrew to amuse himself with a sur- 
 vey of this celebrated fortification. With its foundation, in 1689, 
 the story of British conquest in India began. It is identified with 
 tlie memorable wars, particularly those of Lord Clive, by which 
 that conquest has been perfected. Besides an arsenal, it contains a 
 double line of bomb-proofs to accommodate one thousand men. 
 The esplanade in front of the fort is protected against the sea by a 
 massive stone-walh 
 
 A statue of Lord Cornwall is is a principal embellishment. It 
 was a surprise to us Americans to see so honorable a monument 
 raised in these colonies to the general who surrendered the last of 
 
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362 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 
 
 *;; 
 
 * 
 
 
 the British armies at Yorktown, and so yielded the last resistance 
 to the independence of the American colonies. The British gen- 
 eral, however, retrieved that misfortune by a successful and brill- 
 iant career as Governor-General of India. Happily for his fame 
 his American disaster is as little remembered by the British nation 
 as his successes in India are remembered in the United States. 
 
 Mr. Seward recalls a curious anecdote connected \V'th the Corn- 
 wallis surrender at Yorktown. Henry Laurf;ns, of South Carolina 
 had been president of the Continental Congress, and had been 
 appointed minister to the Netherlands. He was captured on his 
 passage and imprisoned in the Tower of London, and held for trial 
 as a traitor to the crown. General Washington showed his con- 
 sideration for the father by delegating Captain Laurens, the son of 
 the imprisoned minister, to receive the sword of Cornwallis at York- 
 town. AVlien news of the surrender reached London, Henry Lau- 
 rens Avas brought before the Court of King's Bench, and discharged 
 from imprisonment on his own recognizance. They say that lie 
 persisted in amending the recognizance by intei'polating the word 
 not. " I, Henry Laurens, acknowledge myself to be held and firmly 
 bound unto "not" my sovereign lord. King George the Third," 
 and tliat Lord Mansfield, finding him obstinate, said, " Let liim 
 take the recognizance in his own way." 
 
 lebrtmrj/ ISth. — Mr, Seward attended to-day a session of the 
 Legislative Council. The morning papers describe the council and 
 audience as follows : " At the meeting of the Legislative Council 
 held at the council-chambers of Fort St. George to-day, there wore 
 present the Eight Ilonorjible Lord Napier, President, the Honora- 
 ble A. J. Arbuthnot, J. B. Norton, J. D. Surin, P. Mactudyen, A, 
 F. Brown, Mir Ilumayoon, Jah Bahadur, Gu Gujapatti Kow, and 
 Y. Ranueugae. 
 
 " The Honorable William H. Seward, Mr, J. Sutherland, and;i 
 Euro;')ean pensioner were present." 
 
 We learn that the Mr. Sutherland mentioned is himself tlie 
 reporter, but all inquiries have failed to ascertain why the third 
 auditor was described by the vague term of " European pensioner," 
 
THE LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL. 
 
 363 
 
 [•n wall is at Yorlc- 
 
 Sntlicrkiul, iind :i 
 
 As the names of the councillors would imply, five are British, 
 and four are natives. The subject was a project of a law to raise 
 revenue for education, police, and irrigation, within the presidency. 
 The debates disclosed the fact that there is no recognized line of 
 separation between the powers of the " Imperial " Government, at 
 Calcutta, and those of the provinces, in regard to the rights of taxa.- 
 tion and the sources of revenue. The debates on this occasion 
 revealed what in the United States would be distinguished as a 
 itrong jealousy of State rights — a jealousy, indeed, so groat as to 
 endanger the entire fabric of government if appeal could be allowed 
 to popular suftrage. Practically, however, these demonstrations 
 are of little value. The " Imperial " Government may do what it 
 lists ; provincial authority is rather ornamental than eft'ectiv^e. All 
 tlic members spoke, or, rather, read written speeches. Those of the 
 natives were not less able and instructive than those of the British. 
 It is a curious illustration of the inevitable presence of faction in 
 every form of government, that, although this Legislative Council 
 consists of only eleven members, all of whom derive their a])point- 
 raents from the crown and arc responsible to it alone, it is never- 
 theless divided into two parties, and we strangers, who have been 
 less than a week here, already understand them. 
 
 Virgil sang " arms and the man," who, driven to exile, left his 
 native land to build a state on a foreign shore. Our theme seems 
 to be, arts and the men who voluntarily go into exile to build a 
 state in distant lands. 
 
 Three bands were summoned this morning, to give us an idea 
 of native music. All their instruments, with the exception of two 
 violins, were Indian reeds, lutes, and drums. The performances 
 were elaborate, but unmusical and unintelligible. We asked their 
 meaning. The performers explained with manifest al.icrity. "Wc 
 regret to say that even after this explanation we were unable to dis- 
 tinguish the dirge for a lost soul from the cpithalamium. When 
 the first had been performed, Lord Napier asked the leader, a slen- 
 der Hindoo with large, flashing eyes and graceful bearing, to recite 
 and interpret the words of the melody. He rose, made profound 
 mlams, and then, standing erect, in solemn and measured manner 
 
 
 
364: 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 chanted his answer : " The words, my lord, are an appeal to the 
 gods, to allow the poor soul to be consumed immediately with lire 
 that it may no longer be tormented with remorse." Wc had 
 already become weary of the performance, when the third band 
 broke into a discordant imitation of the old "Lancers" quadrille. 
 The musicians were dismissed forthwith, not much to their satistac- 
 tion, although largely rewarded, for they had reckoned on a full 
 day's performance. Hindoo music must have declined here, or it 
 must have been very much improved in Java since its introduction 
 there. 
 
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CHAPTEE II. 
 
 MADRAS {Continued). 
 
 An Excursion to Arcot. — Railroads in Ilindostan. — Appearance of the Country. — Tho 
 Homage of Flowers. — Cauvcrypak. — The Native System of Cultivation. — Visit to 
 a Bramin. — Schools. — A Car of Juggernaut. — The Dutch Reformed Mission. — Back 
 to Madras. — The Portuguese Settlement. — Gindy Park. — A Diamond Merchant. — 
 Lord and Lady Napier. — The Normal School. 
 
 February 20th. — We left Madras on the 18th, with Lord Na- 
 pier, in a special train. Arcot, the capital of the famous province 
 of that name, is seventy miles distant from Madras. A renewal of 
 raih'oad travel, after an interval of six months, in which we had 
 come half-way around the globe, was exhilarating. The road, the 
 engine, and the cars, are of European construction, and even the 
 coal is imported from Wales. The gfiuge, five feet eight, is uniform 
 in India ; but the Government, on considerations of economy, has 
 concluded to contract it to the very narrow one recently proposed in 
 Europe. Tliere are three classes of passengers, the third the cheap- 
 est and most numerous. The soil of the region through which we 
 passed is light ; the rocks, granite. The landscape wears a dull, 
 yellowish color, although there is no want of palm and cactus. AYe 
 seemed to he travelling alternately through sandy fields or meadows 
 covered with stagnant water. AVe soon learned, however, that 
 these pools are artificial reservoirs for irrigation. In some places, 
 the prevailing sterile aspect is relieved by fields of growing rice. 
 The peasantry dress chiefly in white. The herds of very small cat- 
 tle are more numerous than we expected to find in a country where 
 
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306 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 
 
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 the people abstain from animal food. The countiy seemed entirely 
 level, but we gained in the journey an ascent of one thousand feet 
 on the base of the Neilgherry Mountains, one of the three great 
 ranges which traverse the Indian pf.ninsula. At tlua point, we 
 might have supposed that we were entering the Rocky Mountains 
 at Cheyenne. 
 
 As we rolled over the plain into the shaded streets of the an- 
 cient city of Ranepet, Mr. Seward said to Lord Napier, " Now I 
 know, for the first time, that British authority is firmly established 
 in India." 
 
 We seem, on this excursion, to be reviewing the history of the 
 conquest. The mountain-passes, the plains, and the monuments, 
 continually recall to our thoughts the first seizure of Madras ; the 
 subsequent contentions, conflicts, surprises, stratagems, ferrs, con- 
 spiracies, extortions, rapacities, and massacres, which, continuing 
 through a period of two hundred and fifty years, have ended at 
 last with the suppression of the mutiny of 1857. 
 
 In 1745, there was a native war for the succession of the king- 
 dom of the Carnatic, which included the province of Arcot. The 
 French, at Pondicherry, maintained the cause of one claimant ; the 
 British, at Trinchinopoly and Madras, maintained the other. Ma- 
 dras was closely besieged by the French and allies. Clivc, then 
 merely a clerk in the Briti^^h TJast India Company's office at Ma- 
 dras, proposed to force a raising of the siege by making a move 
 on Arcot. His brilliant success in surprising and capturing and 
 holding it four months, with less than four hundred men, against 
 ten thousand French and native troops, was the beginning of the 
 matchless career of that leader whom the elder Pitt pronounced a 
 " heaven-born general." 
 
 Notice of the governor's coming to Arcot had been sent forward. 
 The native collector of revenue met us at Eanepet, the railway- 
 station for that district. He is thirty years old, speaks English 
 fluently, and was elaborately dressed in native costume. lie was 
 surrounded by some dozen Hindoos. He proceeded at once to 
 place in Lord Napier's hancis flowers and fresh limes, at the same 
 time covering him with garlands of flowers. When the agent had 
 
EXCURSION" TO ARGOT. 
 
 367 
 
 3ts of tlie an- 
 ier, "Now I 
 
 1, continuiiin: 
 
 been presented to us, we were severally bonored with tlie same 
 compliment. We inquired whether this was a voluntary and popu- 
 lar expression of welcome, or a prescribed one, and learned that the 
 ceremony is the Hindoo form of homage to a ruler. At the gate 
 of the station we encountered a crowd, obsequious rather than 
 respectful, who threw flowers in our path, and invested us with 
 new wreaths. Thus splendidly adorned, we passed under a flc al 
 arch to the carriages. At the instant of stepping in, a Hindoo band 
 broke into a musical jargon, which frightened the horses, threaten- 
 ing us with serious danger. A sepoy body c i" infantry had loaded, 
 intending to honor his excellency with a fusillade, but at our re- 
 quest that ceremony was dispensed with. We drove over a good 
 turnpike causeway to the village of Eanepet, a suburb of Arcot. 
 The road is bordered vvith mangoes, tamarinds, yellow flowering 
 acacia, and the Acacia vera, whose juice when coagulated is gum- 
 Arabic. Honorary green arches decorated the way, and innumera- 
 ble flambeaux illuminated it. The approach to the town showed us 
 the never-failing Hindoo temple, which, however small, is always 
 graceful in form, and elegant in construction ; opposite to it, is a 
 Mohammedan mosque, and, farther on, a chapel of the Church of 
 England, and an American mission meeting-house. Here also are 
 the offices of the collector of the revenue. These buildings, together 
 with the barracks and many weather-worn monuments of British 
 heroes who fell here, are the only relies of the city of Arcot, so dis- 
 tinguished in the history of the conquest. For aught we can see, 
 the natives have forgotten, if they ever had the idea of, political 
 •ndcpendence. "We were the guests of the British superior ofiiccr 
 of the district. Yesterday morning our party divided ; Lord Napier 
 and Mr. Seward went to see the fountain and agricultural village 
 of Cauvorypak, distant thirty miles. Artiflcial conduits intercept 
 moui tain-torrents, and convey their waters to this reservoir, which 
 is enclosed by a granite wall supported by broad embankments. A 
 dam, forty feet high, is raised across the natural outlet. The em- 
 bankments are strengthened, on the outer deciivity, by mango and 
 palm trees. Thus the reservoir forms a lake of pure water, high 
 above the surrounding country, which is five miles wide and seven 
 
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 BPJTISn INDIA. 
 
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 miles lon^^ — and, at high water, thirteen feet deep. We have taken 
 pains to describe this pretty Lake of Cauverypak, because it is a 
 good specimen of ancient reservoirs, constructed for irrigation, in 
 the country — which are innumerable — and all of which alike bear 
 the ugly name of " tank." 
 
 The system of culture will be easily understood when we have 
 mentioned that a broad plain stretches away from the base of the 
 fountain farther than the eye can reach. Out of this plain arise 
 thirty-two gentle knolls, on each of which stands an agricultural 
 village, and these villages contain an aggregate population of a 
 Imndred and fifty thousand. Cauverypak is one of these. These 
 people cultivate the entire plain in fields varying from an acre 
 to fifteen acres. The staple production is rice. Grounds which, 
 owing to a drought, foil to receive a full supply of M'ater from the 
 reservoir, are called " dry fields," and these are tilled with cereals 
 and vegetables, or serve as pasturage for sheep and cattle. Can- 
 verypak was found exactly in its present condition by the first 
 British adventurers, but it stands without record or tradition. 
 
 It was a principle of the system of native gove/nment in India, 
 that not only all the lands, but also all the waters in a province, 
 belong to the reigning prince, whatever title he might wear, king, 
 maharajah, rajah, or nawab. He leased them to zemindars (large 
 landlords), or to I'ljots (lesser farmers), who paid for their use 
 according to a tariff' graduated with just relation to the productive- 
 ness of the estates. 
 
 The British Government has come into the places of the princes, 
 and the Madras presidency maintains the "tanks," and receives 
 the rents. The average rent is four dollars per acre. 
 
 Drought is a normal incident in India, and is the cause of the 
 famines of which we so often read. In such cases the Government 
 remits the rents, but the zemindars and ryots are nevertheless left 
 without means for the support of their families. The extortion 
 practised upon them by usurers is frightful. Cauverypak village 
 contains ten thousand people, three hundred of whom are ryots; 
 the others chiefly mechanics and laborers. Many of the ryots 
 belong to the privileged castes of Bramins, wdio were not only 
 
VISIT TO A BRAMIN. 
 
 369 
 
 exempt from labor, but forbidden it. Lord ]Siii)ier and ^Ir. Sew- 
 ard were received by the chief Ilramiii ryot at bis hoiise. It is a 
 gtone structure of one low story, with reccption-rooni, diniug-rooni, 
 kitchen, and stable, built around on all sides of an open square. 
 Ill the centre of the square, was a reservoir, an open cistern for 
 •i'lithering and holding rain. Again we ask, Did the llomans bor- 
 row their imj)luvhcm from the East? In rear of this quadrangular 
 building is another of exactly the same form and dimensions. The 
 one opening on the street is the dwelling of the ryot and his family; 
 the other is appropriated to the use of visitors. In the stable are 
 six small oxen, which are used in cultivation, the whole six valued 
 at seventy-five dollars. The manure, like the animals themselves, 
 being sacred, is carefully preserved for burning in the temples, 
 liindoo architecture has a peculiar feature. The veranda, indis- 
 pensable in this climate, is supported by delicate, palm-shaped 
 columns, each of wliic' is ornamented with a broad brass band at 
 the top. There are no bedrooms, but each corridor or passage- 
 way has at each end a dais eighteen inches high, covered with a 
 mat, which serves for a bed. The small garden-plat atta-^hed to 
 the house is filled with cocoa-nut trees, bananas, and beans. The 
 Bramin's furniture is simple enough. lie has two plain tables, 
 two bamboo chairs, and several fine silken rugs. Refreshments are 
 not usually oflTered, but on this occasion fresh milk was served in 
 brazen jugs. The village has two Hindoo temples and one 
 mosque. The school, maintained by the Madras government, has 
 a hundred and fifty native pupils. Besides this, there are twenty 
 native schools, some Hindoo, some Mohammedan, where pupils are 
 received and taught separately, with careful regard to their social 
 castes. Mr. Seward asked the ryot, who is a spiritual authority, 
 whether education is approved by the Bramins. " Yes," answered 
 the Hindoo. " "Why ? " " Because it is pleasing to the gods." 
 " Why does it please the gods ? " " Because it improves the mind, 
 aud makes it appreciative of heaven." 
 
 The poor villagers gathered around the visitors, and some of 
 the older ones seemed desirous of conversation. They gave Mr. 
 Seward an account of the number of pupils in each of the several 
 
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370 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
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 * 
 
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 schools. They seemed confounded when ho asked if these num- 
 bers included the girls ; they replied, " Only the boys." "VVlion 
 asked how the girls are educated, they said, " No girls are educated 
 except Nautch girls." 
 
 Passing through an open paved square, Mr. Seward's attention 
 wafa caught by a rough, uncouth, and unwieldy vehicle. It consists 
 of a platform ten feet long and eight feet wide, laid upon axles, on 
 which turned four wooden wheels, all of one size, not more than 
 ten or twelve inches in diameter. In front of the platform stands 
 a carved and unpainted idol, ten feet high, with hideous allegorical 
 emblems and devices. This is a car of Juggernaut. It is drawn 
 through the streets by the people, during sacred ceremonies. Im- 
 molation of devotees is now forbidden by British law. There would 
 seem, however, to be little need for that prohibition. It Avuidd 
 require great skill and effort on the part of a votary to get his neck 
 imder the wheels of the awkward machine. If we did not know 
 that superstition is as blind as it is overpowering, we could not 
 believe that any human mind could conceive such a deformed and 
 misshapen statue to be a god. Mr. Seward's survey of the interest- 
 ing little village closed with an exploration of the suburb Avhich is 
 allotted to the panahs, the lepers, the outcasts of India. Their 
 habitations arc mean and wretched beyond description, but their 
 condition is not without a compensation. While all other castes 
 are obliged by their laws to abstain from animal food, and forbid- 
 den to take animal life, the pariahs are allowed to use the car- 
 casses of the animals found dead. In this way, they have become 
 the tanners of the country. It is no wonder that they arc care- 
 fully watched, to prevent their slaying domestic animals under the 
 pretext of finding them dead. 
 
 During their long drive, Lord Napier and Mr. Seward saw only 
 one beggar, and he was blind — a Bramin. Having been led np 
 to their carriage by neighbors, he declined to receive alms, because 
 he had left behind him his brazen basin through which he alone 
 could accept coin from any one not of his own caste, without per- 
 sonal contamination. When, however, he felt the weight of a 
 rupee carefully droppeu into his sleeve, he turned his eyeballs 
 
THE AROOT MISSION. 
 
 371 
 
 in the direction from which the party had come, and sung a plain- 
 tive native melody. Lord Napier asked how old he was ; ho 
 answered, " Seventy." " Wliat is the song you have sung bo 
 sweetly ? " " It is a hymn of praise to the gods whom your lord- 
 BJiip passed on the road as you came here." " How is it you sing 
 to the gods, when they have made you blind ? " " The gods have 
 indeed willed that I shall be blind," the mendicant Hindoo replied, 
 " but they protect me still." 
 
 During Mr. Seward's absence the ladies remained at Ranepct. 
 They had appointed to attend early worship at the missionary- 
 chapel. The matin summons was sounded, not by bells, but by a 
 noisy chattering of birds. Springing up and going quiclcly to the 
 veranda, they saw that the deciduous trees around the bungalow 
 (which had dropped nearly all their leaves) were as green as ever, 
 for they were filled with parrots and paroquets. 
 
 The Arcot mission of the Dutch Ileformed Church of America 
 (now the Reformed Church) was established in 1855, by three 
 brothers Scudder, sons of the eminent missionary who labored here 
 thirty years ago. Beyond a doubt, the success of this mission is 
 due to the persevering energy and winning address of these 
 preachers, but it was more to their happy combination of medical 
 practice with their religious teachings. Medical science and skill 
 are at a low ebb on the Asiatic Continent, while they have attained 
 a high development in the West. This superiority is known and 
 felt even by the very lowest classes in the East. The Christian 
 physician, who comes to heal the body, naturally finds his patient 
 in a proper temper for the healing of the soul. 
 
 The municipal district in which the Arcot mission is established 
 is about one hundred and sixty miles square. The missionaries 
 found within it only thirty-five native Christians, and these were 
 without a church or a school. The missionaries (six in number) 
 have now fifty native helpers, who teach day-school in seventeen 
 villages. They have their boarding-schools, two for boys, one for 
 girls, all voluntary pupils. The converts intermarry. The chil- 
 dren thus educated, although belonging to all the various castes of 
 the country, are placed upon a footing of complete equality. The 
 
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372 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
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 boarding-scliool at Ranepet, which is the most successful one, oc- 
 cupies large government barracks. Dr. Scudder has introduced 
 some trades into this school, the principal one that of weaving on 
 native looms. But even a more beneficent institution than tliese 
 schools is a medical hospital. The Madras government appropri- 
 ates to it, in addition to the requisite buildings, one hundred and 
 seventy-two rupees (about eighty-five dollars) monthly. The in- 
 stitution was founded in ISOG, and, during the past j(iar,Jift)/-thn'e 
 thousand nine hundred and sixty-three patients were gratuitously 
 treated from its dispensary. Seven hundred and fifty-three of 
 these were in-door patients, who were provided with beds, food, 
 and clothing. Lord Napier has added to this useful charity a 
 spacious house in which persons of different castes may prepare 
 their own food and live separately, according to their native cus- 
 toms. This noble mission draws from its patrons in the United 
 States only twenty-five thousand dollars a year. The simple 
 homes, frugal habits, and patient labors, of these missionaries and 
 their families, are worthy of all praise and admiration. The mis- 
 sionaries are full of hope, though they corfess the work of conver- 
 sion is very slow. They gain only one hundred a year within the 
 disti'ict. JSTevertheless a manifest improvement in the condition of 
 the people is visible. With this improvement, if it shall go on, we 
 mast be content, for we trust that — 
 
 "Wliatevor creed be taught or land be trod, 
 Man's conscience is the oracle of God." 
 
 Fehnmry 23r7. — We visited yesterday the suburb called the 
 " Portuguese Settlement ; " so called, not because it is under Por- 
 tuguese jurisdiction, but because it was the site of the Portuguese 
 Victory, before the British conquest. Its inhabitants, of native and 
 mixed Portuguese, are Christians, and speak the Portuguese lan- 
 guage. They have a cathedral, with an exemplary bishop from 
 Lisbon. The cathedral bears the name of St. Thomas, to whom 
 tradition attributes the first teaching of the gospel here. However 
 this particular fact may be, the opinion that that apostle preached 
 thi! gospel on the Coromandel coast is well supported by historical 
 
GINDY PARK. 
 
 373 
 
 arguments. Marco Polo found native Christians here, who claimed 
 that their clmrcli was planted by the doubting disciple. Yasco de 
 Gama found native Christians on the coast during his second voyage 
 of discovery. Guides show us the hill and cave at Malapoo, where 
 it is alleged that St. Th> mas sought refuge and suffered martyrdom. 
 They say that even the threshold of the cave still bears the impress 
 of his foot. 
 
 Gindy Parh, February lUh. — We have come to pass a day at 
 this summer palace. On the way we inspected a " model farm," 
 which is maintained by the Madras government. Three hundred 
 acres are divided into two equal parts, of which one is used for the 
 cultivtition of exotic gi'ains, plants, and seeds ; the other is culti- 
 vated with European implements only — the design being to com- 
 mend Western agriculture to the natives. We learn that the 
 institution gains favor. We wore much interested in a small ham- 
 let through which we passed. The inhabitants are wanderers from 
 Northern India. It is maintained, not without plausibility, that 
 the Grypsies of Europe are descended from the same class. Their 
 pretty habitations are in mango-orchards, and are built of branches 
 of pulin, exactly in the shape of a beehive. They gather the fruit, 
 and pay to the Madras government an annual rent of two rupees 
 (a dollar) a year for each tree. We imagine they are the only rent- 
 luyini,' tenants of their outcast race. We hav^o seen a specimen of 
 Hindoo village-schools. Thirty boys, most of them naked, were 
 sitting in the sand, under the shade of a wide-spreading niango- 
 trcc, in a circle. The master stood in the centre, rod in hand, and 
 tjavc out successive lessons, in the Tamil language, in spelling and 
 arithmetic. The whole school, simultaneously, took the words from 
 his mouth, giving them back with their own ; and at the same time 
 wrote the words with their fingers in the sand. These children 
 showed great agility, as v/ell as quickness of apprehension. No 
 sooner had they written the text in the ground, tlian they sprang to 
 tlieir feet, raised their right hands to their foreheads and made a 
 mhm^ indicating that they were ready to receive the next lesson. 
 We crossed a stone bridge which has stood a hundred and fifty 
 
 23 
 
 fc', 
 
 pi. 
 
 '-•»*» .■•l| 
 
374 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 
 It 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 ,£^, 
 
 
 
 * 
 
 years with only the repair of a parapet. A small tenement beneath 
 the bridge was pointed out to us as the dwelling of the descendants 
 of the Armenian merchant who brought himself to poverty in build- 
 ing the magnificent structure. 
 
 Gindy House is even more extensive and elegant than Govern- 
 ment House at Madras. The park contains fifteen hundred acres. 
 Native deer, of the four kinds known in India, sport on the lawns. 
 Instead of alighting at a gate or jyorte-cochhe, we were driven to 
 a shade in the beautiful gardens. They exhibit a luxuriance 
 unknown in colder climates. Every wall, every thatched roof 
 every gateway and column, seems to have been especially designed 
 to support a flowering creeper, which nearly conceals the structure, 
 and these plants are as various in hue as in the form of tendril or 
 leaf. Efforts are made to produce northern exotics, as studied as 
 those which we at home make to cultivate tropical plants. Tiie 
 success in each case is about the same. 
 
 We doubt which was most effective, the gorgeous display of 
 flowers around us, or the dew-drops which glistened on grass, and 
 flowers, and trees, under the rays of the morning sun. The heat 
 increasing rapidly, we took shelter under a noble mango, where 
 the morning libation of tea was made. We talked and laughed at 
 translations of the highly-imaginative native poetry. We dined 
 ew jamille at the palace, and, as the evening shades came on, 
 adjourned to a fete-chami)cire in the gardens. The society of 
 Madras was there. If any thing was needed to heighten the brill- 
 iant scene, it was found in the exquisite music of the niilitarv 
 bands, which played airs in echo across the broad park and on its 
 beautiful lakes. 
 
 Madrafi^ Fehpuary 26th. — New acquaintances and new studies. 
 The diamond merchant is an important personage in every Asiatic 
 country, for diamonds are the favorite investment of wealth. An 
 eminent Armenian of that class breakfasted at Government House 
 this morning. His organ of perception is strongly developed, and 
 he has a shrewd, almost furtive expression. He was entertained 
 in the most acceptable manner by being allowed to exhibit for 
 
MADRAS. 
 
 376 
 
 our instrnction the contents of his waistcoat-pockets, consisting of 
 diamonds of every size and of every water, jewels quite sufficient 
 for a coronation, and even enough to satisfy the ambition of a Fifth 
 Avenue belle. He gave us a relation of what he considered the 
 ijreatest transaction of his life : Having acquired in the course of 
 trade an extraordinary diamond, he sent his son to Europe to sell 
 it. The son was admitted to the Tuileries, and the empress bought 
 it; it is one of the "pear-shaped" diamond car-rings which figured 
 so conspicuously in the inventory of her jewels. The empress 
 called for "the regent," and showed it to the young Armenian. 
 "My son," said the merchant, "was permitted to take that cele- 
 brated gem in his hand ; he looked into it through tears of joy, 
 and did not give it back until he had pressed it to his lips." 
 
 Evening. — It will be a mournful day for Madras when Lord and 
 Lady Napier take their leave. While he builds and endows uni- 
 versities and hospitals, there is no charity which she neglects. We 
 visited an orphan asylum with her to-day, and afterward an asylum 
 for the children of the Sepoys. Although the studies for the day 
 were ended, and the children were at play in the grounds, they 
 came cheerfully up and took their places in the examination-room. 
 They inquired what they should sing for us. Mr. Seward propo=otl 
 " From Greenland's icy mountains." They sang it in full chorus, 
 and insisted upon our naming another. They sang this too ; then, 
 following us to the gate, gave us " God save the Queen." 
 
 Perhaps the best, certainly the most interesting, of these noble 
 charities, is the normal school for the instruction of native women. 
 It has fifteen pupils, all of high caste. They are educated free of 
 charge, and even paid for their attendance. They are driven to 
 and from the school-house in close carriages, so that they may not 
 be "seen of men." We fear that the importance of this noble step 
 toward the civilization of the East is scarcely realized at home. 
 We noticed among the pupils a girl of seventeen, distinguished 
 from her dark-eyed companions by a sad demeanor and ]ilaintive 
 voice. In a single year she had lost her husband whom she loved, 
 and her only child. The laws of her caste doomed her to seclusion 
 
 
376 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 and celibacy for life, to give up her jewels, friends, and hopes. The 
 normal school allows her activity, cheerfulness, and usefulness. 
 
 "We learn that the Dnke of Argyll, Secretary for India, takes a 
 deep interest in the institution, and has just sent out from England 
 a young lady to take charge of it, who was educated for that pur- 
 pose in the United States. 
 
 
 *« 
 
 • 
 
 THB SUHF AT MADBAS. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 FROM MADRAS TO CALCUTTA. 
 
 The Surf at Madras. — On the Bay of Bengal. — Tlie Lion-Whelps.— The Ilooglj'.— The 
 Vioeroy's Invitation. — Earl and Countess Mayo. — Glimpses of Calcutta. — The Baboo. 
 — The Baboo's House and Harem. — The Government House. 
 
 Steamer Australia, Baxj of Bengal, Fehruary '2'th. — The surf 
 never ceases to beat and break against the shore at Madras. A 
 dozen years ago an attempt was made to overcome the difficulty by 
 extending a pier into the sea. But there was found neither capi- 
 tal nor engineering skill anywhere sufficient to make the work 
 elective. 
 
 We insisted on leaving the shore in the primitive way. A 
 native surf-boat, eighteen feet long, live feet wide, and six feet deep, 
 was hauled high and dry on the beach. The boat is constructed 
 with bamboo-withes instead of spikes and nails, to prevent leakage, 
 and of miiterial so light, and proportions so exact, that no weight of 
 water will cause it to sink. It is presumed always that, notwith- 
 standing the boat is so deep, it will fill in going through the break- 
 ers. For this reason, the passengers, as well as the oarsmen, sit on 
 benches which are stretched across the boat's brim, and each bench 
 serves as a brace for the feet of the occupants of the bench behind it. 
 We were lifted in chairs by Hindoos and sjnlled on the benches in 
 the stern, under the awning of British flags. A secretary and an 
 aide-de-camp of the governor were with us, and we enjoyed our 
 
 li 
 
 
378 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 new excitement as our score of boatmen, with merry shouts and 
 cheerful song, laboriously forced the boat through the foaminf' 
 surf. 
 
 We sailed at four o'clock. If the thought gave us sadness that 
 we were never to see Madras again, we consoled ourselves with the 
 reflection that, even if a return were possible, we should not find 
 there the same friends ; and what could we see, or know, or enjcy 
 there without them ? 
 
 
 
 
 i- 
 
 ■« 
 
 (it 
 
 BaT/ of Be7igal, Fehruary 2Sth. — Once again on the same calm 
 sea, with the same southern breezes, protected by the broad awning 
 from the same burning sun. Our two weeks of rest and recreation 
 at Madras already seem not so much an episode of our voyage, as 
 a refreshing and inspiring dream. At daylight we had reached 
 shoal water, and a channel marked by lighted buoys. Birds sur- 
 rounded the ship in great numbers. Sailing-ships and steamers 
 continually shot by us. Consulting the chart, we found that, al- 
 though no land was vifc'ble, we had entered between the capes 
 which guard the entrance of the IJoogly into the bay of Bengal. 
 Vie took a native pilot. 
 
 The Iloogly is one of the rivers which, dividing into a thou- 
 sand creeks, and through as many lagoons, discharge the mighty 
 flood of the Ganges. Ever-moving sand-bars render the navigation 
 here uncertain and perilous. We slackened our speed from forty- 
 nine to fourteen revolutions until the flood-tide set in. Low, sandy 
 shores at length appeared. Subject at all seasons to terrible inun- 
 dations, they have never been reclaimed for tillage, and are often 
 strewn with the bodies of animals, a-Td sometimes with human 
 bodies. 
 
 Our ship ought to receive a demonstrative welcome at Calcutta, 
 for she bears two African lion-whelps to grace the menagerie of 
 some potentate there ; whether nativti prince or European viceroy, 
 we have not learned. Although but three months old, these 
 " babes " have attained a large size. They stare at us boldly with 
 their big green eyes, and switch their tails with a savage inde- 
 pendence. 
 
 inous xiame 
 
CALCUTTA. 
 
 379 
 
 r shouts and 
 the foaming 
 
 sadness that 
 Ives with the 
 juld not find 
 ow, or enjoy, 
 
 he same calm 
 broad awning 
 md recreation 
 jur voya<i;e, as 
 > had reached 
 s. Birds eur- 
 and steamers 
 found that, al- 
 een the capes 
 jay of Bengal. 
 
 D- into a thou- 
 rre the mighty 
 the navigation 
 ;ed from forty- 
 Low, sandy 
 terrible inun- 
 and are often 
 ;s with human 
 
 me at Calcutta, 
 menagerie of 
 
 ropean viceroy, 
 
 iths old, these 
 us boldly with 
 
 a savage inde- 
 
 March \st. — The Iloogly has shrunk to the width of the Hud- 
 son at Foughkeepsie. The vegetation here is as luxuriant as at the 
 equator. Yery soon, however, these palm-shaded fields, though so 
 freshly overflc wed, will become dry and brown. 
 
 Although we are entering Calcutta before the vernal equinox, 
 the heat is already intense. If we distrust our strength to explore 
 the continent before us, we have nevertheless the inspiring thought 
 that wc are floating on the Ganges we have so long desired to see — 
 the Ganges, notwithstanding it is called here by the less eupho- 
 nious ^larae of the Hoogly. 
 
 Calcutta, March Id. — As we approached the wharf yesterday, 
 the viceroy's barge — ^manned by thirty Bengalese boatmen in scarlet 
 livery — rounded up to the Australia's side. Major Burne (private 
 secretary of the viceroy) came on board, accompanied by the 
 United States consul-general, Mr. Jacobs, and Mr. McAllister, an 
 American residing here. Major Burne delivered a letter from the 
 viceroy, inviting us to be guests at Government House during our 
 stay here. Mr. Seward had before accepted the invitation of the 
 consul-general and Mr. McAllister. The matter was quickly com- 
 promised, with the understanding that, after passing some days 
 with our countrymen, we should accept the hospitalities of the 
 viceroy. 
 
 Last night happened to be a " state " one at the opera ; that is 
 to say, the performance then was to be honored by the presence of 
 the viceroy. The representation of " Lucia di Lammermoor " by an 
 Italian troupe, before a fashionable assemblage, made us aware that 
 we had at last reached the Eastern verge of Western society. 
 Earl Mayo and the Countess of Mayo, in the central box, were sur- 
 rounded by their suite, and a group of native princes, or rajahs, 
 whose gold and jewels far outshone those worn by the ladies of the 
 viceregal court. Between the acts Mr. Seward was presented to 
 I the viceroy, and afterward to the brilliant circle. His lordship in- 
 si&i ^d that Mr. Seward, without taking upon himself the trouble of 
 making a preliminary visit, should with his family lunch at Govcni- 
 ment House to-day, and then, or as soon after as convenient, become 
 
 1, ■■ 
 
 tt 
 
 % 
 
 m»>>*m 
 
!*.» 
 
 .»•.(. 
 
 fR -^'sa 
 
 •■a 
 
 
 W 'ff 
 
 11 
 
THE CITY OF PALACES. 
 
 381 
 
 inmates of that household. lie was further informed that carriages 
 and barges would be at his orders during his stay here. 
 
 The Earl of Mayo is purely Irish. He is tall, handsome, and 
 lias a commanding presence, with manners which, though dignified, 
 are frank and genial. As Lord Naas, he was many years a conser- 
 vative member of Parliament, and was Secretary for Ireland during 
 the Disraeli administration. 
 
 March 'Id, Evening. — We have enjoyed a pleasant morning at 
 Government House. This evening, the few Americans residing 
 here dined wnn ui at Mr. McAllister's. The fact that they all 
 hail from Boston is creditable to the enterprise of that intellectual 
 city. 
 
 During the day we had some glimpses of Calcutta. If it were 
 in the West, its aspect would hardly justify the distinction it bears 
 —"the City of Palaces." The government buildings are indeed 
 extensive, numerous, and substantial ; but, in point of architecture, 
 they are respectable rather than imposing. Private dwellings of 
 foreigners combine European solidity with the graceful Oriental 
 verandas and columns ; but they have no pretentious magnificence. 
 The native city contains many stately residences of pleasant aspect, 
 but generally the dwellings are low and common. The appearance 
 of the whole city (the foreign as well as the native part) is spoiled 
 by a wretched stucco which, by exposure to the weather, becomes 
 dingy and discolored. The suburbs on the river-banks are disfig- 
 ured with brick-yards, counted not by hundreds, but by thousands. 
 The array would seem to indicate that the city is enjoying a vigor- 
 ous growth ; inquiry, however, brings out the fact that no sand fit 
 for building is found in the vicinity, and bricks are therefore burned 
 and pulverized as a substitute for that necessary article. 
 
 March Mh.— A northeaster set in on the 1st, and we have 
 since had cold rains. The " oldest inhabitant " says that this is a 
 new freak of the climate. Hard as it has rained, we have never- 
 theless been obliged to go abroad, for — after seven months' travel, 
 as may be easily imagined — we have pretty much come to the 
 
 left' 
 
883 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 * 
 1. 
 
 I 
 
 unhappy condition of our celebrated countrywoman, " Miss Flora 
 McFliiiiscy." Our troubles are aggravated at the state of the 
 market, which, they aay, is just experiencing the calamitous cftucts 
 of the war between Germany and France. Gloves are not to be 
 had in Calcutta. 
 
 The " JaJoo," called by Burke, in his invective against Warren 
 Hastings, the " banyan," is a native trained to trade, and speaks 
 English. Like the comprador in China and Japan, he attaches 
 himself to a mercantile house, to an official contractor, or some 
 other business concern (either native or foreign), and negotiates 
 commercial matters ; receiving commissions from one party or the 
 other, according to circumstances. He often rises to wealth and 
 influence. One of this class solicited a visit from Mr. Seward, add- 
 ing that, while the baboo and his sons would receive him, the ladies 
 would be welcomed by the zenana. Such a courtesy is rarely, if 
 ever, extended to foreigners. 
 
 The foundation of this baboo's fortune was laid by his father 
 long ago, in connection with an American house ; and the present 
 incumbent, who is seventy years old, has added to his wealth and 
 importance. He has now his fifth wife. We visited him to-day. 
 The house, though more cheaply built than those of the wealthy 
 class which we saw at Canton, is of the same model. It is three 
 stories high, and covers the sides of a square as large as one of the 
 blocks of Philadelphia. The area within is used for fountains and 
 baths. A group, consisting of the baboo's three sons and their 
 sons, received us at the gate, very obsequiously. They showed us 
 the way to a grand hall, having a vaulted roof and double colon- 
 nade. A few elegant chairs, with yellow-satin cushions, placed on 
 a scarlet-velvet rug in the centre of the room, constituted the fur- 
 niture. Here the eldest son welcomed Mr. Seward in a eulogistic 
 English oration, and then presented his several brothers and each 
 of the lads in attendance. Erightly-dressed servants meanwhile 
 stirred the air with large peacock-fans, mounted on massive silver 
 handles five feet long ; others, to the great prejudice of the ladies' 
 dresses, sprinkled us from head to foot with rose-water from silver 
 vases ; others, again, covered us with garlands and bouquets ; and 
 
THE BABOO'S HAREM. 
 
 383 
 
 yet others held before us silver vases containing the attar of roses for 
 perfuming the hands. These cerenionics over, wc ascended to the 
 baboo's room, in the third story. Quite infirm, he was dressed as a 
 valetudinarian, though richly. He welcomed Mr. Seward as the 
 "great father of the greatest of the nations." The baboo con- 
 ducted us then to an adjacent drawing-room, and ordered that all 
 tlie children of the house, not excepting the youngest, girls as well 
 as boys, should be brought in by their ayahs (nurses). Twenty 
 infants were brought in, gaudily dressed. The little ones acted 
 their proper parts with entire truth to nature: some shrank 
 backward ; many screamed ; one or two shrieked ; while others 
 extended their small hands, and bashfully performed salams. 
 After this came an order, from the baboo, as unexpected as it was 
 unprecedented in that family. It was that all the women of the 
 family, except the widows, should now enter the apartment. Re- 
 ceiving this command, in their different rooms, the women inquired 
 through a messenger whether they were to be seen by the ladies 
 only. The baboo imperiously replied: "They must all be pre- 
 sented to Mr. Seward, and receive him as a friend. lie is a friend 
 of mankind ; he shall see us just as we are, and see all that we do 
 — wc will have no secrets from him." This was intended as a 
 great compliment to Mr. Seward. 
 
 There was a sound of pattering feet, and a gentle rustling was 
 heard. It was followed by the entrance of eight little women, all 
 of whom were dressed in gauze of gold and various colors — only 
 gleaming jewels could be seen through their veils. They trembled 
 like so many aspens as they approached gracefully, lifted their slen- 
 der arms — almost covered with gold — and extended to us their little 
 nervous hands. The baboo was not yet content. He requested us 
 to raise their veils. Wc did so gently, and looked upon gazelle 
 eyes and pretty features, but the wearers were so abashed that, in 
 tenderness for them, we soon let the veils drop. In answer to our 
 compliments, they spoke not a word. The gentlemen now with- 
 drew. 
 
 Mr. Seward was then shown through seventy-five rooms, in- 
 cluding a family chapel — the furniture of all very meagre and 
 
 ;1 
 Jjj., 
 
 )t4. 
 
 I; 
 
 1 ;i 
 
 ■ I' X: 
 V ■ 'i 
 
 i 
 
 
 
384 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 **« » 
 
 t-3' ,- 
 
 
 plain, tlie stairs steep and narrow, and the corridors dark and 
 perplexing. 
 
 The women, being left alone with their visitors, now volun- 
 tarily communicated, through a lady interpreter, all the family 
 secrets : the number of wives each of the baboo's sons had married 
 and lost ; the number of children of each wife ; and the number 
 and value of the jewels each possessed. The wife of the eldest son 
 presented her daughter — a bright and laughing maiden bedecked 
 with jewels — who, having attained the advanced age of eighteen 
 months, has already been man-icd to a little gentleman who also 
 was present, and who claims the experience of ten years. He has 
 been elected to the honor of this marriage because he is the pre- 
 sumptive head of the caste to which this iamily belongs. Accord 
 ing to the custom of the country, he has been brought into the 
 tamily of his bride to be educated. There are eight pairs of such 
 prematurely-married people in this family, which consists of sev- 
 enty-five persons. 
 
 The windows of all the chambers of the zenana, or harem, are 
 darkened, and made secure with iron bars, as in a prison. The 
 widows, even more secluded than the wives, inhabit the meanest 
 and dingiest of the chambers. The women showed, with perfect 
 freedom, their sleeping-rooms, baths, and the contents of their 
 wardrobes. Eaeix woinau has three garments. These being woven 
 in the shape required, there is no need of mantua-maker or milli- 
 ner ; the only care bestowed on this property is to hang them up 
 and take them down. The care of the children is devolved on the 
 ayahs. As the wife neither sews, nor reads, nor writes, she has 
 absolutely no occupation but to talk with her companions of the 
 zenana ; and, as might perhaps be expected, domestic discords are 
 frequent. The guests (in the zenana) were then served with cakes, 
 comfits, and betel-nuts, the latter broken in small bits and folded 
 in silver-foil. The interview closed with the same ceremonies with 
 which we had been received, newly fanning the guests with pea- 
 cocks' plumes, sprinkling them with rose-water, and perfuming the 
 hands with the attar. 
 
 The baboo, in his conversation with Mr. Seward, represented 
 
SWINGING ROUND THE CIRCLE. 
 
 385 
 
 that a general discontent with British authority is felt by his coun- 
 trymen, but he left it quite clear that they have not the faintest idea 
 of uprising or of resistance. Helpless and listless, they follow the 
 conflicts of the Western nations, cnly for the purpose oi obtaining 
 a hope — most unreasonable — that, amid the chances of war, India 
 will receive a new conqueror, either the United States or Russia. 
 Mr. Seward left the baboo without lending any encouragement to 
 these political expectations. lie joined the party in the grand hall 
 below, when we were honored with the ceremonies twice before 
 described ; besides, a treat of champagne, ice, cofiee, and the hookah. 
 The younger boys of the family now fell upon the floor and kissed 
 our feet ; with their fathers, they attended us to the gates, and 
 then dismissed us with such a shower of compliments and thanks 
 as convinced us that even the Spanish language of courtesy is 
 Btinted and cold compared with Oriental flattery. If we are to 
 believe them, " they still weep for our return." Eight bearers 
 came after us bringing a tray tilled with confectionery. 
 
 * 
 Government House, 3/arch lih. — "We took up our residence 
 
 here to-day. Although the distance from Mr. McAllister's house 
 is short, the journey was long, and not made without some diffi- 
 culty. Wc had appointed to be here at five o'clock, and, under 
 viceregal leave, had directed the Bengalese coachman to come for 
 us a little before that hour. lie had, however, become accustomed 
 to our daily habit of driving about the city, and did not understand 
 our command to bring us here. He drove us up and down the 
 strand, around the gardens, and through the city. Aware of his 
 mistake, we, from time to time, enjoined upon him our commands — 
 at last our entreaties — to drive directly to Government House. To 
 changed his course every time, but only to drive in some new circle 
 around the palace. We appealed in vain from, the coachman to the 
 footman and to the postilions. But, all being Bengalese, they un- 
 derstood not a w^ord, and so we went on, " swinging " faster and 
 faster " around the circle." By a fortunate circumstance, we met 
 Mr. Jacobs, who, addressing the coachman in his own vernacular, 
 made him understand that it was the centre of the great circle that 
 
 
 i 
 
386 
 
 iJRITlSiI IxNDlA. 
 
 
 f 
 
 s 
 
 I 
 
 we desired to penetrate. An hour and a half having been spent 
 in these gyrations, we found at the door of Government House, 
 not Major Burne (who was to receive us), but a servant, charged to 
 conduct us to our apartments, and to explain that the secretary, 
 having waited until six o'clock, had gone to fulfil another engage- 
 ment. 
 
 Government House, which was built during the administration 
 of the Marquis of Wellesley, has dimensions perhaps one-fourth 
 less than the Capitol at Washington. It is enclosed, with its gar- 
 dens, by a high iron balustrade. Its walls are brick, covered witli 
 stucco ; tlie style, Italian. The arrangements and embellishments 
 are English, and display that peculiar patriotic pride which seems 
 to be of the same nature as the Himily pride of a distant or poor 
 relation in social life. We almost imagine ourselves British colo- 
 nists, living in the days of our ancestors, before the American 
 Revolution. The noble, arched gateway is ornamented with no 
 such modern and republican symbol as the " bird of freedom," 
 with arrows and olive-branch in its claws. Nor does cornice or 
 architrave present any such mysterious legend as ^^ E jjlurihm 
 tmum.''^ Nor does tower or turret show any stars or stripes, or 
 any modern tricolored ensign. Instead of all these, there are a lion 
 and a unicorn over the gateway, and they are as usual " a-figliting 
 for the crown," bearing on their necks the scroll with the daring 
 words "Z>/<2w. et mon droitP The stately cross of St. George 
 flaunts from the palace-walls. Marquees and tents cover the plain, 
 surmounted with the same flag ; and officers, soldiers, and ser- 
 vants, all are clothed in the gorgeous scarlet-and-gold uniform 
 which betokens British royal authority. A great gilded chair and 
 canopy, at the upper end of a great hall, give it the ambitions 
 name of " Throne-Room." The walls are covered with British 
 portraits — prominent among them those of the obstinate George 
 III. and Charlotte his faithful queen ; the Earl of Chatlium and 
 General Wolfe, Lord North, Lord Cornwallis, General Bnrgoyne, 
 Lord Clivc, and Warren Hastings. The ceremonies and etiquette 
 of this palace are copied from those of Buckingham Palace. The 
 person, stranger or otherwise, who desires or claims notice at court, 
 
TROPICAL BIRDS. 
 
 387 
 
 instead of presenting letters or leaving cards, registers his name in 
 the adjutant's book. If recognized, lie is honored with audience ; 
 if not, nothing is said. In the morning a list of the invited guests 
 is submitted to each member of the family, and each guost residing 
 in the fomily, and he answers whether he dines with the party or 
 in private, or dines out. When the dinner-hour arrives, and the 
 guests are assembled in the throne-room standing, the viceroy and 
 tlie Countess of Mayo enter, each attended by an aide-de-camp, and 
 salute their guests individually. The band plays during the din- 
 ner ; conversation at the table is subdued. Before the end, the 
 viceroy rises — and wuth him the whole party — and he proposes, in 
 a loud voice, the only sentiment of the evening : " The Queen." 
 Then follows conversation, with amateur music, in the drawing- 
 room ; at the end of which the viceregal hosts take leave of the 
 party individually and retire. 
 
 AVe are never able to forget, in -doors or out, that we are in the 
 tropics. The adjutant-bird, formal and pensive, stands sentinel 
 over the great gate. Resting on one leg, with his knowing head 
 under his wing, he often sleeps on his post. Immense ravens, with 
 drab collars and caps, are walking before and behind you on the 
 piazzas. Parrots, in variegated costumes of green, gold, and scar- 
 let, fill the trees ; martins, in jet-black coats ; and swallows, plain 
 and brown ; twittering wrens, and thousands of slender mines, in- 
 habit the cornices and capitals. Not unfrequently the birds per- 
 sist, against all housewifely care and resistance, in building their 
 nests in " coigncs of vantage " found within the walls ; sometimes 
 in the curtain-tenters ; sometimes on the tops of or behind y^icture- 
 framcs. In the evening, we find the veranda-floor in front of ou" 
 apartments strewed with dry branches and twigs, which the bird- 
 builders have deposited there in mass for further use. The next 
 day the unwearied architects take up the material and bear it to 
 its appointed place on shelf or cornice. The raven is especially a 
 thief: flying in at the windows, he carries away any minute, bright 
 article or ornament left exposed. The steward aspiired us that the 
 birds have borrowed this naughty practice from the native servants, 
 who, he alleges, are universally addicted to petty larceny. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 
 
 CALCUTTA {Continued). 
 
 The Maharajah of Putteeala. — Oriental Magnificence— Kali Ghaut. — The Temple.— Hin- 
 doo Idols. — Kali. — Siva. — A Mohammedan Mo8t(ue. — The Reading of the Budget- 
 Indian Finances. — The King of Oude. — The Prince of Oude. 
 
 f 
 
 9 
 
 March 9th. — The fasliionable promenade of Calcutta is the pub- 
 lic garden, which is named Eden. The name, however, is not bor- 
 rowed from paradise, as might be supposed, but was bestowed in 
 ccmpliment to the Hon. Miss Eden, the accomplished sister of Earl 
 Godolphin Osborne, a former governor-general. We visited this 
 garden yesterday with Lady Mayo, at sunset, for evening begins at 
 sunset here. Brilliant gas-lights sparkling through the dark foliage 
 of mango, palm, and cypress trees, with music from a central 
 stand beneath them, lent their strong attractions. It was a gay 
 scene. "We walked on the green lawns, and for an hour listened to 
 the music, suiTounded by beautiful English ladies dressed from 
 boxes just out from London and Paris; happy children glad of 
 release from confinement of nurses and school-room, chasing each 
 other over the lawns ; army-officers in full-dress for dinner or the 
 opera ; stately baboos in white cambric ; dusky Sepoy guards 
 in white-and-red uniforms; rajahs in jewelled turbans and gold- 
 embroidered robes ; and, in the back-ground, parsees, in their fun- 
 nel hats, were seen in earnest converse. Mohammedans on their 
 knees, with faces toward Mecca, were repeating their prayers. His 
 highness the Maharajah of Putteeala, of Northern India, was one 
 
lie Temple.— Hin- 
 of the Budget.— 
 
 >S1 
 
 :~M 
 
 V 
 
 iiii 
 
 
 
 
 Jill 
 
 'm 
 
 W^^ 
 
 
 it 
 
 THE MAHARAJAH OF PUTTKEAl A, 
 
 (irand CommnndcT of the fltp.r of Inrtln. 
 
 I* 
 
m 
 
 390 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 of the immediate circle around Lady Mayo. His family is distin- 
 guished for loyalty to the British Government. His father rendered 
 good service during the mutiny. For these considerations, he has 
 recently heen invested in great pomp with the order of the Star of 
 India. In acknowledgment of that high distinction, he gives to- 
 night a concert to Lord and Lady Mayo. He is a very athletic 
 man, appearing to be thirty years old, but is, in fact, only twenty 
 years. He speaks English imperfectly, and seems to have hut a 
 limited education. Mr. Seward asked him what were the produc- 
 tions of his estates ? The maharajah answered : " I am not like 
 the people you see here in Calcutta. I am a prince. I have many 
 zemvnda/ts. I have power. I can hang the man if I like, and I 
 can send anybody to jail for all his life." 
 
 The " Star of India " is an order of knighthood which was pro- 
 jected by Prince Albert, into which British subjects and native? 
 of India are alike elected, on the ground of distinguished service to 
 tlie British nation in India, They say that Prince Albert was 
 perplexed to find a motto which should be equally inoffensive tc' 
 Christians and heathens. He happily chose this : " Heaven's light 
 our guide." 
 
 March lO^A. — The maharajah's concert was given in a style of 
 Oriental magnificence at the town-hall, before an audience of twelve 
 hundred, all of whom the prince had invited. An illuminated 
 arch was raised above the porch of the building, and above it 
 blazed the " Star of India," with all the effect which gas-jets and 
 reflectors of burnished silver could produce. The vaulted roof of 
 the building is supported by double rows of white Corinthian col- 
 umns with corresponding pilasters. The Veiling and walls wen 
 p'linted in delicate green ; groups of rose-colored lamps were suf- 
 pended between the columns and pilasters, and the nave was ligbt- 
 ed with transparencies designed to illustrate the greatness and 
 glory of Britain. The splendid combination of light and color 
 brought out in full relief the garlands and festoons of flowers whicli 
 burdened the air with perfume. Sofiis were arranged so as to 
 afibrd the guests full freedom of promenade and conversation in 
 
KALI GHAUT. 
 
 391 
 
 the intervals of the music. The raaharajah, with rcyal munifi- 
 ceoce, brought the entire operatic troupe upon the stage, while 
 iudepenJent bands of music were stationed at all the approaches 
 of the edifice. The turbaned and decorated prince appeared in his 
 own proper regalia of gold and jewels, realizing the highest descrip- 
 tions we have ever read of Eastern gorgeousness. He wore not 
 only rings without number on his fingers, a golden girdle at his 
 waist, necklaces of jewels, and " ropes of pearls " on his breast, but 
 also a blue-and-gold satin robe, which was broidered to the depth 
 of six inches with a solid mass of glittering precious stones. It is 
 needless to say that the musical performance was very good, yet it 
 was the ostentatious display which attended it that was the wonder 
 of Calcutta that night. 
 
 We went to-day in search of Kali Ghaut. It is the most famous 
 of the Hindoo temples here, and from it the city derives its namt 
 We found it in a base suburb. It has three disconnected struct- 
 ures, which, although they are built after the customary models, 
 and of solid materials, seem nevertheless mean, when seen with 
 their vulgar surroundings. The floors of all are on one level, eight 
 feet above the ground, and are reached by stone steps. The build- 
 ing on the right hand is a circular one about fifteen feet high 
 above the floor, open all around, with a roof supported by Hindoo 
 columns. The central building is an oblong one. The third and 
 principal edifice is a square surmounted by a dome, which ox- 
 tends beyond the walls, and is supported by outside columns. It 
 has no windows ; light is admitted through small doors on three 
 sides. The building first described is the hall of sacrifice, into 
 which only Bramin priests are admitted. The building last r'--- 
 scribed contains the shrine of the goddess Kali, to whose service the 
 Thugs especially devoted themselves. Not even its threshold must 
 be profaned by the footstep of the vulgar. The central edifice is 
 the worshippers', from which they pay their adoration to the divin- 
 ity on the right hand, and on the other witness the sacrifices. A 
 Bramin crowd dressed in clean white, many of them speaking un- 
 commonly good English, were assiduous, though not obtrusive, in 
 explaining the mysteries to us. As we went through the grounds. 
 
 
:J92 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 ** ... « «• 
 
 m : 
 
 f 
 
 i 
 
 a native police sprang forth at every turn to protect us against an" 
 injury or oifcnce. AVo waited an liour for the priest who had the 
 keys. He came at last, arrayed in pure white — a tall man and dic- 
 nified, in every way seeming worthy to serve at the altar. With 
 nmcli labor, he unfastened a massive padlock, and, turning Its 
 heavy bolts backward, threw open a door on either side of the sanc- 
 tuary, and disclosed to us through the dim light a wrought-iron or 
 stone figure, of human proportions but scarcely of human sliapo. 
 The idol is black, has three glaring red eyes, a broad golden tonguo 
 tipped with black, which projects from a distended mouth down to 
 the waist, and is dripping with blood. The arms are large. The 
 left hand holds a giant's heitd ; the right hand, a sword with which 
 it has been severed — both crimsoned \vith blood. A necklace of 
 infants' skulls graces the demon. Devout worshippers prostrated 
 themselves around us, and something like mumbled prayers were 
 heard as they beat their heads upon the pavement. We placed 
 some rupees in a vessel before us ; these were thrown at the feet 
 of K:;li, and the doors were quickly closed. This savage deity 
 called Kali is the wife of Siva, and is the author of all the evils 
 which beset the human race. Bullocks and goats are sacrificed. 
 Fire purifies the latter, and the offering is eaten by the priests; 
 the former, incapable of purification, are charitably given to pari- 
 ahs. The ground around the hall of sacrifice is rank with the odor 
 of putrefaction. One hundred and fifty Bramins and their families 
 live in and about this temple. They seem to be supported by con- 
 tributions of pilgrims, and by deprecatory oflerings of merchants 
 who are engaging in business enterprises. 
 
 Wo went from the Kali Ghaut to a temple which is dedicated 
 to Siva. The divinity here is a black spherical stone, ten inches 
 in diameter, set on a concave stone of lighter color, in the centre 
 of the pavement. The temple was too sacred to be desecrated 
 by our feet. We were allowed only to look upon it tin'oiigh the 
 open door. The attending priest threw the rupees upon the stone 
 god. 
 
 Walking from one temple to the other, we passed numerou? 
 idols. Some represent Juggernaut with a human face elongatcil 
 
THE "BLACK HOLE." 
 
 39:i 
 
 ,ato au elephant's trunk. Others represent Vishnu ; others, of 
 grotesqu-^ shape, represent the children of Siva and Kali. If we 
 were asked which one of the Oriental superstitions seems to us the 
 most absurd, we should say it is that of the hideous Kali, the un- 
 meaning Siva, and their misshapen olfspring. 
 
 We noticed that the Bramin attendants here value a god, not .so 
 much for his character, as for the costliness of the material of whicjii 
 he is made. They represented to us that it was not worth our 
 while to visit Siva at all, because temple and idol are cheap and 
 mean ; nor did they conceal their disrespect for the dingy elephan- 
 tine children of Kali and Siva, but they expressed the profound'^st 
 awe and reverence for golden Kali. 
 
 Returning to the city, we paused to admire a beautiful white 
 marble memorial-mosque, which has minarets at the angles, but no 
 central dome. The jnuezzin was solenmly calling the faithful to 
 evening-prayer. The porch was covered with the sandals of the 
 worshippers, who had already entered the courts, which we werei 
 forbidden to profane. Is it strange that this Mohammedan struct- 
 ure and worship, simple and severe, impressed us with sentiments 
 of respect and even devotion, when thus seen in immediate contrast 
 with the temples of the base Hindoo idols ? 
 
 The memory which lingers here of the " Black Hole," the sub- 
 liiiiest horror in the history of India, is very taint. With the aid 
 of an antiquarian, we found the site enclosed within the area of the 
 Post-office. 
 
 March \Oth. — The reading of the "Budget" is here, as it is in 
 Eu^dand, the great ])olitical transaction of the year. It took place 
 to-day, in the marble hall of Government House, in the presence 
 of a considerable assembla2:e. Mr. Seward was honored with a 
 privileged seat. The arrangement of the council-chamber was not 
 unlike that of the cabinet council at the White House, except that 
 the viceroy's seat is raised on the dais. The exposition of the 
 finances, by Sii* Richard Temple, was a lucid and elaborate perform- 
 ance, but it wanted the tone of calm dignity which distinguishes 
 the speeches of the British Chancellor of the Exchequer, or the 
 
 
394 
 
 BRITISH fNDIA. 
 
 ^ 
 
 «25 
 
 1, 
 
 * ; 
 
 I 
 
 'I! 
 li 
 
 report of the United States Sceretiiry of the Treasury. The dofei- 
 ence toward home rule, which was manifested in every paragraph, 
 was in strong contrast with the independent spirit of legislation on 
 financial questions in the American colonies before our Revolution. 
 In India, no councillor, nor any subject, questions the omni'^otence 
 of the Parliament of Great Uritain. The debt of British India (in 
 round numbers) is one hundred million pounds sterling — five times 
 greater than the national debt of the United States before our civil 
 war, and about one-fourth as large as the debt is at the present time. 
 The revenue is about fifty million pounds sterling. Only an in 
 significant part is derived from customs, it being the policy of the 
 Home Government to encourage the consumption of British manu- 
 factures in the colonies. Eight million pounds sterling (net) i.s 
 obtained from the culture and sale of opium, on which drug the 
 (xovernment makes an actual profit of one hundred per cent. Sail 
 monopoly brings in five million pounds ; a land tax imposes the 
 severe exaction of one and a quarter per cent, on valuation. None 
 .)f these revenues excite as much discontent as the tax of two and a 
 half per cent, on incomes, which is equally obnoxious to British 
 residents and native zemindars. That tax must be abandoned, 
 oven at the cost of reduction of the military expenses. Railroad 
 enterprise in India is wortiiy of all admiration ; although it was 
 begun only twenty years ago, there are now five thousand miles of 
 completed roads, and two hundred and fifty miles are added an- 
 nually. The Government guarantees an income of five per cent. 
 on the capital invested in railroads. They make a return thus far 
 of only two and one-half per cent. When we consider the vast 
 population and resources of India, there seems no reason to sup- 
 ])0se that railroads will be less productive than in Europe and the 
 United States. 
 
 After the council, the members asked Mr. Seward whether his 
 financial experience enabled him to make any suggestion for the 
 removal of the difficulties arising (Kit of the income-tax and the 
 railroad subsidies. He answered : " Your railroads will increase 
 the demand for foreign manufactures, an increase of customs will 
 enable you to dispense with the income-tax ; the railroads, more- 
 
KING OF OUDE'S SON. 
 
 895 
 
 ^. The dcfer- 
 sry paragraph, 
 legislation on 
 Lir llevolution. 
 e omni]^otence 
 'itisli India (in 
 no; — five times 
 before our civil 
 le present time. 
 ;. Only an in- 
 e policy of the 
 [■ British uianu- 
 terling (not) is 
 vhicli drug the 
 per cent. Salt, 
 ax imposes the 
 .luation. None 
 ax of two and ii 
 :ious to British 
 be abandoned, 
 iuses. llailroad 
 dthough it was 
 ousand miles of 
 
 are added nn- 
 »f five per cent. 
 
 return thus far 
 »nsider the vast 
 
 reason to sup- 
 
 uirope and the 
 
 ard whether his 
 >'o;estion for the 
 ime-tax and the 
 ds will increase 
 of customs will 
 railroads, more- 
 
 over, will enable you to reduce your army of one hundred and fifty 
 thousand Sepoys, and your seventy-five thousand European troops, 
 to much smaller figures. Having made these economies, you will 
 then be ready to admit the natives to a limited representation in 
 the provincial councils." 
 
 All the members of the Goyernment, natives as well as foreign- 
 ers, are fitly-chosen, intelligent, able men. Mr. Seward pronounces 
 Earl Mayo the " hardest worker " as well as the most sagacious of 
 them all. 
 
 March Wth. — The majestic declamations of Burke, in the trial 
 of Warren Hastings, have made the civilized world familiar with 
 the tragic story of the kingdom of Oude. We may, hereafter, have 
 jucasion to speak, not of the kingdom, but of the king. The last 
 descendant of the native king, who reigned at Lucknow under the 
 British protectorate, joined the mutiny in 1857. On its suppres- 
 sion, he was deprived of the kingdom, but was allowed to retain his 
 sovereign rank with a munificent pension, though obliged to reside 
 in Calcutta, under government surveillance. Yesterday, we re- 
 paired to his palace on the bank of the Hoogly, in compliance with 
 his invitation. The royal residence consists of twelve sta; ""ly edi- 
 fices with colonnades, which accommodate retainers, servants, and 
 soldiery, numbering in all ten thousand. A regiment of native 
 troopb gave Mr. Seward a salute at the grand gate, and we were 
 received at the palace by the king's eldest son, the heir-apparent, 
 who announced that his father, being very ill, had deputed him to 
 bo his representative on the occasion of our visit. We have never 
 seen a handsomer youth, although he is swarthy. Dressed fully up 
 to his character, he wore flowing robes of blue velvet, embroidered 
 with gold, and his princely jewelled coronet. The titular King of 
 Oude is probably the only monarch in the world who wears such 
 antiquated head-gear as this. Doubtless, however, it is a pleasing 
 reminder .of the palmy state from which he has "fallen, fallen, 
 fallen." 
 
 The prince, in a most amiable and communicative temper, con- 
 ducted us through the extensive flower-gardens, immense mena- 
 
 **-<»% i'.pl 
 

 f 
 
 R* 
 
 ! 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 geno8, as 
 
 gine, liavi 
 
 animals c 
 
 liiigc boa 
 
 skilfully ( 
 
 the groun 
 
 and at pic 
 
 white fan; 
 
 sac in wL 
 
 of-j)aradis( 
 
 as doinest: 
 
 one liundi 
 
 any tenan 
 
 rilims are 
 
 inhabitant 
 
 mensG gre 
 
 banai.as, a 
 
 den of an i 
 
 two hundi 
 
 munificent 
 
 is graceless 
 
 The viq 
 
 relaxation 
 
 oany of la< 
 
KING OF OUDE'S MENAGEKIE. 
 
 ',m 
 
 <i;erics, as well as aviaries and aquariums, neither of which, we ima- 
 gine, have their equal in any part of the world. An account of the 
 animals exhibited would bo little less than a " catalogue." We saw 
 huge boa-constrictors sleeping in their cages. The snake-charmer 
 slcilfully drew the cobra de eapello from its prison, stretched it on 
 the ground, and then with great dexterity seized it by the throat, 
 and at pleasure made it open its mouth and show the strong, sharp, 
 white fang, whose stroke is instant death, and beneath it the smnll 
 sac in which the fatal venom is secreted. The ostrich, the bird- 
 of-j)aradi8e, the pelican, the flamingo, the eagle, and the swan, are 
 as domesticated as if they had known no other home. We counted 
 one hundred species of the pigeon, nor can we recall the name of 
 any tenant of the air which is not represented there. The aqua- 
 riums are lakes, each covering an acre, and ten feet deep. Their 
 inhabitants of all kinds came to be fed from our hands. An im- 
 mense green tortoise was tempted to the shore by a bunch of 
 bananas, and walked back seeming not at all oppressed by the bur- 
 den of an attendant, who stood on his back, and who weighs nearly 
 two hundred pounds. The English people here tell us that the 
 munificent King of Oude is treacherous, and that his handsome son 
 is graceless. But when has conqueror confided in his prisoner? 
 
 The viceroy has gone into the country for his customary weekly 
 relaxation of boar-hunting. We drive with Lady Mayo and a com- 
 oany of ladies and gentlemen, this evening, to Barrackpore. 
 
 i 
 1 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 BARRACKPORE AND SERAMPORE. 
 
 ^ 
 
 -1'5 
 
 •'3 
 
 li 
 
 
 
 I' 
 lit 
 
 Barruc-kporc Park and its Beauties. — Magnificent Trees. — The Menagerie. — The Liou- 
 Whelps. — Serampore. — Its Mis.*ionaries and Mission-Schools. — Return from Bar 
 rackpore. — Fort William. — The Woman's Union Missionary Society and its Schools 
 
 BarracTcpore Park, March 12^A. — This viceregal country resi 
 (ience stands on a curve of the Hoogly, sixteen miles north of Cal 
 cutta. Besides the palace, there is also a large military station. 
 On tlie opposite bank of the river is Sercmpore, originally a Danisli 
 possession, but now I'ritish, and incoi*porated with Barrackpore. 
 
 It is a relief to escape for a day from the sights and excitements 
 of the capital. Vegetation is so luxuriant in India that wild beasts 
 maintain their natural liberty in the midst of tJie densest luiinau 
 population. Jus. s the morning dawned the shrieks of these 
 vicious beasts ceised, and the notes of the whippoorwill came in 
 their place, as distinct and as piteous as when heard on the banks 
 of the Potomac. But we are before our story. The hall in whicli 
 we were received last night was far more magnificent than any we 
 had ever before entered. Its circumference one thousand feet, its 
 tioor a green lawn, its roof the dfense, dark fern-like foliage of the 
 banyan-tree, its brown columns and arches, the trunks which have 
 grown from the tendrils that dropped from the parent tree, and 
 took root in the ground. Only Virgil could celebrate so magnifi- 
 cent a shade : 
 
 "Tityre tu patulas recubans sub tegmine fagi." 
 
SEIiAMPOIiK MISSIONS. 
 
 31)9 
 
 Of course, there is a menagerie, though it is ii sinall one, at- 
 tdc'hcd to the palace. The Jk'ngal tiger, the noblest of the feline 
 nu!o, is shown here with special pride. We saw a superb fellow, 
 which, now fully grown and (juite siivage, was one year ago a pet 
 kitten in the nursery. Wo have renewed here the pleasant ac- 
 (juuiutances which we formed with the lion-whelps who were our 
 tbllow-passengers on the Australian. They are very restless in 
 dioir new quarters. We find a novelty far more interesting than 
 the menagerie. It is a troop of wild jackals, which make the 
 "night hideous" witli their bowlings. Fur hours, we thought that 
 the noise they made was that of an insurrection or a riot. 
 
 On the invitation of the editor of Tlic Friend of India^ we 
 crossed the river this morning and visited Serampore. It is well 
 known in the United States as the place where the three devoted 
 missionaries, Marshman, Carey, and Ward, founded the first Ameri- 
 can mission in India. They chose the site because it was then 
 aiulcr the friendly flag of Denmark, while the regulations of the 
 British East India Company forbade Christian missions within its 
 jurisdiction. Serampore is also the scene of the first labors of the 
 pious and indefatigable Judson. The scientific institutions as well 
 as the press and libraries which the earnest men, whom we have 
 mentioned, established, are still fleurishing, while the very air of 
 the quaint place seems redolent of their memories. After a pleas- 
 ant collation, we examined theso institutions. The missionaries 
 educate one hundred and fifty children here in reading, writing, 
 and arithmetic ; and fifty more up to the qualifications for admis- 
 sion into the University of Calcutta. Mr. Seward asked what 
 became of the youths who are thus educated ? The missionaries 
 answered that "the highest ambition of a Hindoo youth is a 
 place in which he can wear a ' pen behind his ear.' " The young 
 nieu secure the small places under the Government which are open 
 to natives. Very few of them become or remain Christians. 
 
 March 13^^. — We returned from Barrackpore this morning, 
 with Lady Mayo and a party of twelve, in the " drag," drawn by 
 six horses, directed by their postilions, and attended by a mounted 
 
 I 
 
4()0 
 
 BRITISH INDLV. 
 
 
 
 M I 
 • 4 
 
 I 
 
 
 If 
 
 <!' 
 (I 
 II 
 
 il 
 
 escort. The roads were fine, the morning exhilarating. Wp 
 passed an elephant bearing a load of hay, the first of those animals 
 we have seen in service. Mr. Seward passed the morning in a 
 survey of P'ort AVilliam. Built as a defence for the first British 
 factory in Calcutta, and identified with all the great events in the 
 history of the conquest, it still gives the ofiicial name to the seat ai 
 the government. But Fort William, and all that Mr. Seward saw- 
 in it, belongs to the past. In his absence the ladies enjoyed the 
 pleasure oY studying a more modern and useful institution. 
 
 It is the proud distinction of the United States that our coun- 
 trywomen have designed and brought into execution a practical 
 plan for the amelioration of society in India. Caste, in that coun- 
 try, has its moral and civil as well as its theological code. Its lawn 
 are paramount to all laws and all institutions of government. l{ 
 may be said of caste, just as truly as it was said of the laws ot 
 Moses, that " the letter killcth, the spirit giveth life." Caste hin- 
 dered and defeated two attempted reformations in India before the 
 country became known to Europeans — Buddhism and Mohanuiu- 
 danism. It is caste, the "letter" of the Hindoo law, that hiudors 
 Christianity) and seems to render the introduction of all Western 
 civilization impossible. Caste lias effected all tliese evils and jicr- 
 j)etuates them tluough the degradation of women. Christiaiiitv 
 and Western civilization can only be established through the res- 
 toration of woman here as elsewhere to her just and lawful sphere. 
 This restoration is just what "the Woman's Union Missionaiv 
 Society of America for Heathen Lands" is doing through the iiisti- 
 tutioi thev have established at Calcutta and its branches in the 
 provinces, called the "Zenana Mission." We accompanied Miss 
 lirittan, the superintendent of this institution, in her visitation of 
 many of the zenanas, to which, by her unremitting zeal, assidiiily. 
 and gentleness, she has gained access. These families were !;(>n- 
 erally rich, like that of the baboo, which we have described. S(»!nf 
 of them, however, are M'retched and squalid. Even in these, tlic 
 women, like those in the rich zenanas, are timid, gentle, lovin<; 
 creatures, and all alike are painfidly desirous of instruction, 'riie 
 institution employs in Calcutta twelve American women as teacli- 
 
BARRACKPOKK. 
 
 401 
 
 :liose luiimals 
 noniiiig in a 
 i first lii'itisli 
 events in the 
 to the seat of 
 r, Seward saw 
 3 enjoyed the 
 ition. 
 
 hat our coun- 
 on a practical 
 in that c'o\in- 
 ode. Its laws 
 vcrnnient. It 
 )f the laws of 
 !." Caste hin- 
 idia before tlio 
 ,nd Mohaniiiu- 
 V, that hinders 
 of all West(!ni 
 evils and ])cr- 
 . Christianity 
 rou>2;h the res- 
 lawful sphere. 
 ion Mission;! IT 
 •on<>;h the insti- 
 )ranehes in the 
 ompanied Miss 
 ler visitation of 
 zeal, assiduity. 
 ilies were '^m- 
 scribed. Somr 
 >n in these, tlic 
 , n;ontle, loviiii' 
 struction. 'flit' 
 iroincn as teach- 
 
 ers. Th(!y have already instructed sixty native women, who have 
 become assistant teachers. They have durin<^ the same time estab- 
 lished an asylum where they support and train twenty additional 
 irirls for teachers. Miss Brlttan counts seven hundred and fifty 
 unlive women, who have been taught and (pialitied to become the 
 wives of Hindoo youths who are prepared for official employment 
 in the universities and schools established by the Government. It 
 ia pleasant to record that tliis noblest of charities enjoys the entire 
 conlidence and favor of Earl Mayo.' 
 
 ' \Vc found on our return to the United States that tlie " Woman's Union Missionary 
 Soi'icty of America'' had fully adopted the idea of tlie iinportuuce of conuot ting Die 
 knowledge of medicine witli the qualiticiitiou of teacher. 
 
 II UiUAUIU'UIUi. 
 
CHAPTER YL 
 
 
 U 1 
 
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 • ;. 
 
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 •« 
 
 
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 II 
 
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 it 
 
 iJ7?0.¥ CALCUTTA TO BENARES. 
 
 CoTirtesy of the East India Railway Company. — Unattractive Scenery. — The Sooner' 
 improves. — Aspect of the (Country and the People. — A stop at Patna. — A Tiger 
 Hunter. — The Cultivation of tlic Poppy. — The Maharajah of Benares. — A Night 
 on the Ganges. — A Brilli.int Display. — Glory Hallelujah. — A Compliment to Mr 
 Seward. 
 
 Benares^ March loth. — We left Government House, Calcutta, 
 on the 13tli, in the evenincf, and, with the aid of friends, made 
 our way throuj^h a mixed and c:arrulous crowd which gathered at 
 the wharf. We crossed the Hoogly in a capacious steam ferry- 
 boat, and took possession of a car which had been furnisliod iis. 
 by tlie East India Railway Company, for our exclusive use while 
 in the country. We attach it to, or detach it from, the train ;it 
 our pleasure. It consists of two apartments, with a bath-room, 
 Our Cal(!utta friends furnisliod as with a full supply of Boston i(o. 
 
 The niglit wa.s dark. When we awoke in the niorniu}^. w; 
 looked out upon an unattractive plain, broken by ledges of nuk.'-. 
 The road was bordered with shallow tanks, filled with nmddy watt r 
 collected during the last rainy season, and frequent brick-kilns hiiilt 
 to supply the material for the railway structures. An occa^i()rlill 
 herd of small lean cattle, sheep, and goats, with a tattered or iiiiked 
 attendant, was seen upon the scanty soil nearly covered witli 
 stunted trees and shrubs. A few mean farm-houses and wnitchod 
 villages were visible. We thought India a sorry contrast to Jiipnii 
 
BEAUTY OF THE COUNTRY. 
 
 403 
 
 nnd Java, and even less cheerful than the sandy plain of the dismal 
 Pci-ho. Refcrrin;^ to the map, we found that we were a hundred 
 iniles south of the Ganges, and that the dreary region wc were 
 traversing is a spur of the mountain-border of the great river-basin. 
 Scarcely had we time to express our surprise at the uninviting 
 aspect of the country before the rocky ledges and stunted vegeta- 
 tion gave way to scenes of fertility and beauty — which continued 
 without interruption during the day. Endless fields, some yellow 
 with ripening rice, some white with the strewed leaves of the 
 poppy, and some green with growing wheat, millet, and other 
 cereals, alternate with orchards of bananas, tamarinds, and man- 
 goes — the latter trees just now blooming and filling the air with 
 a perfume sweet as that of the acacia. The plantations are divided 
 by hedges of richly-flowering cactus. In other fields arc large 
 herds of cattle, and goats, and flocks of sheep, all fiit and sleek, and 
 ranging under cocoa-nut trees, scattered through the landscape 
 like the oaks in Kentucky and California. The palma-Christi, a 
 hardy, graceful shrub, needing little irrigation, grows luxuriantly. 
 The flower-stalk of the "century-plant" has already reached the 
 height of ten feet, and is preparing to spread its gorgeous petals in 
 May. As we approached, we saw, in the midst of this luxuriance, 
 which surpasses that of the prairies of Java, winding rows oi' wil- 
 lows, and occasionally a mast towering over them. Another curve 
 revealed to us the Ganges. 
 
 The groups of slender men and children whom we passed by 
 the roadside and in the fields Avcre gayly and gracefully attired. 
 So also were the few women whom we saw. They had a great 
 profusion of silver ornaments, ear-rings, nose-rings, bracelets and 
 bangles. All Nature seemed to feel new animation and dis])lay 
 fresh beauty in the presence of the Ganges. Green ])arrots witli 
 yellow- and-red heads perch on the telegraph-wirer, as swallows and 
 martins do in our own country ; flocks of flamingoes make a. rose- 
 ate cloud as they fly over our heads ; the solcnm stork and the 
 stately m'jutant march in regiments through the coprtcs and pre- 
 serves around us. 
 
 We made one stop, during the day, at Patna. It is a large and 
 
404 
 
 DRITISU INDIA. 
 
 n 
 
 1*^ X « 
 
 (SI .J' •■■ '' 
 
 
 
 
 I.; 
 
 11 
 
 it 
 
 «• 
 
 It 
 
 ti 
 
 t: 
 
 nil old Hindoo city, memorable in tlie history of British conquest 
 as the scene of the perfidious covenant of the "Three Souls;" that 
 inlamous transaction which aroused the people of England from 
 tlioir criminal lethargy to n contemplation of the atrocities practised 
 by the East India Company. While there, we made a survey of 
 the eighteen cars which constituted our railway-train. Only one 
 of these was devoted to Europeans, the others were fully freighted 
 with natives ; never less than thirty, sometimes fifty, crowded into 
 a car. We met there our countryman Mr. Eldridge, who was just 
 returning to Calcutta from a famous tiger-hunt in the north, in 
 which he shot a tiger which had already laid hold of tlie haunch of 
 the elephant he was riding. Patna, like all the towns and villaprcs 
 oil our road, shows a division of the population between the faith 
 of the J3ramins and that of the Arabian prophet. The Hindoo 
 temple, although it has a greater number of worshippers, is alwavs 
 eclipsed in magnificence by the mosque. 
 
 The government ofiicci, charged with the superintendeiun; of 
 the opium-production, called upon us at Patna. The opium-jjoppy 
 boars a smah white flower instead of the large bright petals known 
 in our gardens. Tlie manufacture is simple : early in the morning', 
 an attendant (usually a v/oman) goes through the poppy-field, strik- 
 h.'r each capsule with an instrument of many blades like a cu])piiijr. 
 Knife — the milky-juice exudes, dries, and blackens, under the biini- 
 iiig heat of the sun ; it is gathered in the evening by scraping tho 
 plant with a knife. It is already opium. The narcotic stronp^tli 
 of the juice varies in dilfcrent plants — owing to a dilTei'ciioe in 
 the vigor of the ])lant, or to the circumstances favorable or 
 unfavorable to the extraction of tlie juice. Some plants yield 
 only fifty per cent, of the drug; other?, eighty or ninety per cent. 
 The weak and the strong products are mixed so as to obtain a uni- 
 form strength of seventy-five ])er cent. The licpiid which remain^ 
 after the mixture is made is again exposed to the sun. When the 
 mass, thus mi.xed, has obtained a consistency for manipulation, it U 
 divided into small portions, each of which is enclosed in a sinijle 
 mango-ionf. It is then rolled by hand until the leaf is entii'ily in- 
 •i',>r»;onitrfl into the mass, and tho opium comes out dry in tho 
 
MAHARAJAH OF BE N^ ARES. 
 
 405 
 
 itisli conquest 
 3 Seals ; " that 
 Englaiid from 
 cities practised 
 do a survey of 
 in. Only one 
 fully freighted 
 ', crowded into 
 >, who was just 
 1 tlie north, in 
 :' the ha\ui('h of 
 ms and villaj2;cs 
 tween the faitli 
 ,. The Iliiuloo 
 ippers, is ahvays 
 
 erintendenoc of 
 he opiuni-])oppy 
 lit petals kiiowii 
 in the nioruiin:. 
 oppy-iield, strik- 
 like a cu])pin:;- 
 under the burn- 
 by scrapiiiii' tlio 
 arcotic strength 
 a dilTereiioe in 
 >s favorabUi ov 
 iiK^ phmts yield 
 ninety per cent. 
 to obtain a nni- 
 d which remain' 
 sun. When the 
 anipiihition, it i^ 
 osed in a single 
 ;af is entirely in- 
 out dry in th.' 
 
 shape of a round ball. One acre of poppy yields live pounds of the 
 opium of commerce. 
 
 We saw indigo-fields on every side, but the season for the culti- 
 vation of that ])lant is past. 
 
 Arriving at the station, Mogul iSerai, on the south bank of the 
 Ganges, we M-ere met by the government connnissioner of the dis- 
 trict of Benares. lie was charged by the ]\Iaharajah of Benares to 
 
 
 
 MAHARAJAH OP BF.NAREH. 
 
 invite us to an entertainment on the river in honor of the festival 
 cdled "the Holy," which, after having been continued for several 
 diiys, was to come to a close that night,, A continuous railroad- 
 journey of twenty -two hours, fatiguing everywhere, is doubly 
 severe here ; but how could we decline a comjdiment from so high 
 a native source, or how forego an occasiou so novel and interesting 
 I as a night on the Ganges \ Two officers of the prince's household, 
 bearing silver maces six feet long, with twenty servants in scarlet 
 
 [and white, met us on the river-bank and placed us in cushioned 
 27 
 
 A 
 
406 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 Si*"" 
 2S ■*' 5^ 
 
 
 • •ft' 
 1« 
 
 k 
 
 \i 
 
 H 
 IS 
 
 It 
 
 chairs, under a gay canopy, on the deck of a graceful yacht. "We 
 floated leisurely dowuM'ard with the current. The first part of the 
 voyage had no special interest. The night was dark, and the dim 
 lights around us gave us only spectral glimpses of the terracecl 
 banks. AVhen, however, we had advanced a mile, we saw, on our 
 right, at the river's edge, the blazing, crackling flames of scemiiif 
 bonfires. The portion of the banks thus illuminated seemed to 
 rise to the height of a hundred feet, and were thickly crowded with 
 massive structures ; and, over all these, the gleaming dome and 
 minarets of Aurengzcbe, the great mosque of the city. What Mas 
 our surprise to find that the fires, which we had supposed kindled 
 for a temporary' illumination, were funeral-fires ! Ghauts are buih 
 on the banks for the sole purpose of cremation. The spectacle 
 turned our thoughts, for the moment, upon the strange process of 
 disposing of the remains of the dead. "What," we inquired, "is 
 dont vith the ashes which remain from the fires ? " " They scatter 
 them on the bosom of the sacred river." 
 
 At this point we entered a crowd of brilliantly-illuminated and 
 gayly-decorated barges, so dense that it was not without diffienltv 
 that we made our way through it to the station assigned us, near 
 the maharajah's barge, from which a calcium-light fiashed an in- 
 tense and dazzling splendor over the entire city. On either side of 
 this magnificent barge was another one, equally gorgeous ; the one 
 containing the Maharajah of Visianagram, the other, the Maharajah 
 of Puttceala. These dignitaries were guests. The barges of the 
 three princes were lashed together, and a grand Oriental pavilion 
 extended over them. All the optical effect that can be obtained 
 by fanciful naval designs, brilliant light, and variegated draporv. 
 by moving crowds and splendid costumes, reflected by mirror?, 
 crystals, and gold, was produced here ; while the senses were rav- 
 ished by the perfame of burning incense and tropical flowers. 
 Though dazzled by cross-lights, and bewildered by the indescriha- 
 ble glitter, we passed, under safe guidance, from our own barac to 
 that of the Maharajah of Benares. Under the same conduct w 
 passed through successive chambers, each varying in enchantment 
 from the others, until we reached the curtained and festooned cen- 
 
GLORY HALLELUJAH. 
 
 407 
 
 Eul yaclit. We 
 first part of the 
 rk, and the dim 
 of the terraced 
 we saw, on our 
 Lines of seeming 
 lated seemed to 
 ly crowded with 
 tiling dome and 
 city. Whiit was 
 supposed kindled 
 Ghauts are built 
 . The spectacle 
 ;rangc process of 
 we inquired, "is 
 " " Tliey scatter 
 
 tral saloon, appropriated to guests. Here rose- water and ncroli 
 cmshed over us from silver and crystal fountains ; champagne and 
 sherbets sparkled in golden vases ; buft'ets groaned with the weigiit 
 of fruits, confectionery, and ices; while beautiful nautch girls in 
 gauzy attire performed their most sacred and celebrated songs and 
 dances to their strange music. 
 
 It may be imagined we were filled with emotion, when, in an 
 interval of this elaborate Asiatic exhibition, the solemn measure ot 
 " Glory Hallelujah " from a full European orchestra burst upon 
 our ears. The performance of this great marching-anthem of the 
 Union army in the late war was a thoughtful recognition, on the 
 part of the maharajah, of Mr. Seward's presence. We took leave 
 of our princely entertainers at twelve o'clock, leaving the pageant 
 of the Ganges to go on during the whole night for the enjoyment 
 of those who, unlike ourselves, had strength enough to endure it. 
 
 lY-illuminated and 
 without difficnltv 
 assigned us, near 
 ht flashed an in- 
 On either side of 
 •orgcous ; the one 
 ler, the Mahavajali 
 he bavgcs of the 
 Oriental pavilion 
 can be obtained 
 xriegatcd drapevy. 
 ectcd by mirror., 
 ,e senses were rav- 
 I tropical flowers. 
 by the indcscrih:!- 
 our own har.a'C to 
 same comluct \ve 
 g in enchantment 
 and festooned cen- 
 
 NAUTCU OIBLS. 
 
 , 3, 
 
if; 
 
 CHAPTER yil. 
 
 BENARES. 
 
 I* 
 
 « > 
 
 I IB 
 
 I* 
 
 nav 
 a *:• 
 
 J. *I 
 
 11 
 11 
 
 Ml 
 
 The Sacred City of the Hindoos. — The Cradle of Buddhism. — Sarnath. — Remarkable 
 Towers. — The Holy River. — The Ghauts. — Singular Architecture. — The Mosquas 
 and their Minarets. — A Picturesque Scene on the River-Bank. — Siva and Doorga.— 
 Manufacture of Idols. — Kincob. — Magnificence of Benares. 
 
 March ICitJi. — Our experience here in the sacred city ol the 
 Hindoos is like that of the visitor at Jerusalem. There he expects 
 to find most prominent the monuments of the Jews. Here ^ve 
 expect to find most prominent the monuments of the Hindoos. At 
 Jerusalem, the monument which first attracts attention is not the 
 Temple of Solomon, but the Mosque of Omar ; and here, the object 
 which first attracts our attention is not a temple of Vishnu, but, 
 Sarnath, a suburb of the city, the cradle of Buddhism. Buddha, 
 according to the traditions, was a prince. He renounced royal 
 state, wealth, family, friends, every thing, and repaired to Sarnath, 
 Here in seclusion, and in the practice of severest asceticism, he con- 
 tinued through five years ; and it resulted in his conviction that he 
 had become perfectly incarnate of the Supreme God ; perfectly puri- 
 fied ; the delegated savior of his nation i<nd of mankind. Here, 
 his teachings began nearly twenty-four hundred years ago ; hence, 
 according to the faith of his disciples, the light of divine truth, 
 which he dispenses, has radiated through the East, until it has ex- 
 erted its saving influence over one-fourth of the human race, and it 
 is to continue to radiate until it shall pervade the earth. But tlie 
 fortunes of Buddhism in the region where it originated havt- Qot 
 
Sarnath. — Remarkable 
 ccturc. — The Mosciius 
 :. — Siva and Doorca.— 
 
 icrod city of the 
 There lie expects 
 Jews. Here we 
 the Hindoos. At 
 tention is not the 
 id here, the object 
 e of Vishnu, but, 
 idhisui. Buddha, 
 renounced royal 
 )aired to Sarnath. 
 asceticism, he con- 
 conviction that he 
 od ; perfectly puri- 
 mankind. Here, 
 years ago ; lience, 
 t of divine truth, 
 St, until it has ex- 
 luiman race, and it 
 10 earth. But the 
 riffinatcd have- aot 
 
 (0 
 
 H 
 
 
 
 < 
 
 
 U 
 
 X 
 
 en 
 
 w 
 
 CQ 
 
410 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 been unlike those of Christianity. While the Christian relinion 
 is extended to the ends of the earth, a foreign and hated worship 
 prevails in Palestine. So, while Buddha remains incarnate, not in 
 Sarnath, but in Thibet, and thence dispenses the divine tnith 
 throughout the vast regions of Tartary, China and Japan, (Y'vldn 
 and the Oriental Archipelago, his system has scarcely a foothuld in 
 the province where it originated. Sarnath is eight miles distant 
 from Benares. The largo plain, strewed with ruins, is the resort 
 
 !: 
 
 « Mi 
 
 T» il«B 
 
 <* ** 
 I* in 
 
 « tn 
 
 ■■'.'rSi-t f---s'V*^">g-V '- 
 
 
 OBEAT BUDDHIST TOWEB AT SABNATU. 
 
 ill : 
 
 it 
 
 in 
 II 
 
 It: 
 
 of innumerable bands of pilgrims, who cover its broken shrines 
 with garlands, and bedew its sands with tears. We tried, quite 
 ineffectually, to learn the history of the only two monuments wliicli 
 retain something of their ancient shape and original proportions, 
 One of these is a conical tower, which rises in the centre of a well- 
 defined area, two-thirds of a mile in circuit. The tower has a 
 circumference of ninety-two feet at the base, and rises to a heigbt 
 of one hundred and ten feet. What is extraordinary is, that tin's 
 
BUDDHIST TOWER OF SARNATII. 
 
 Tl\ 
 
 vast tower is solid, without chambers or internal passages, except a 
 low, subterranean one. It has a basement-story, twenty feet high, 
 of Bolid brick, ten feet of whicli is below the level of the plain. 
 Upon this basement is a story, forty feet high, of chiselled Chunar 
 stone. With the exception of the live upper layers, this story is a 
 solid mass, each individual block being fastened to the one adjoin- 
 in"' it by iron clamps. The part of the tower which is above the 
 stone story, last mentioned, is built entirely of large bricks. Origi- 
 nally, it had a veneering or outer covering, but it is difficult to 
 ascertain whether it was of stone, stucco, or cement. The apex of 
 the structure, ten feet in diameter, bears some traces of a statue 
 surmounted by an umbrella. The large stone story has eight pro- 
 jecting faces, divided from each othsr by a panel fifteen feet wide. 
 Each projecting face has a large, deep niche, from which some life- 
 
 ^^ 13 i 
 
 CABVING ON BUDDHIST TOWKB AT SARNATU. 
 
 size statue has long sin'^e disappf ared. Imagination replaces these 
 with the figure of Buddha ana his disciples, as we saw them so 
 often in China and Japan, wit 'a hands raised before their breasts, 
 
41z 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 m 
 
 IMS 
 • *» 
 
 Kin 
 
 4^ • 
 
 i" 
 
 lata 
 
 heads bent forward, and gazing at the soles of their feet. Several 
 of these projecting faces are finely ornamented with wreaths df 
 lotus — sometinies the plant winds as a vine with birds and dimin- 
 utive human figures resting on its tendrils. In some places, it 
 shows the tender leaf and bud ; in others, the open fiower of the 
 lotus. The carving of some of these wreaths is unfinished — an In- 
 dication that the great structure was never completed. We cmi- 
 eluded that this curious tower was projected and raised as a monu- 
 ment of Buddha's reform, but abandoned before completion, wlien 
 the religion was expelled from the country. We have alluded to 
 another ruin — this is a solid, circular brick mound, seventy-tour 
 feet high, with an octagonal cupola twenty-four feet high. Tlie 
 cupola has its history, but not the mound. The former bears an 
 inscription which recites that the sovereign of the country as- 
 cended the mound in the year 51. 
 
 March 17 ih. — We have to-day viewed Benares, not, as on our 
 first night, under an artificial illumination, but under the light or' 
 an equinoctial sun. We passed down the river in the same yacht 
 which floated us at the grand festival. 
 
 Long before John baptized in the Jordan, the Asiatics had con- 
 ceived the beautiful idea that certain rivers are holy, and that their 
 waters have the power of " cleansing from all sin." The Ganges 
 is, as it always has been, that river of the Hindoos. They must 
 come hither as pilgrims from the most distant regions, at least once 
 in a lifetime, and even once a year, if they can. They come 
 here, moreover, if they can, to die ; because, to die in the holy city, 
 secures a direct entrance into paradise. Native princes, successful 
 baboos, and rich zemindars, please the Bramin priests and the peo- 
 ple, and think also that they please the gods, by erecting majestic 
 temples and buildings, costly marble ghauts for the use of the pil- 
 grims as well as burning ghauts. To reach these ghauts, the high, 
 steep banks of the river, for miles in length, are terraced with per- 
 fect stone steps. The temples rise to the height of five, six, seven, 
 eight, nine stories. They are built of marble and freestone, 
 pierced with windows of every conceivable graceful shape, and are 
 
A riCTUUESQUE SCENE. 
 
 413 
 
 feet. Scvornl 
 .th wreaths of 
 •ds and dimin- 
 some places, it 
 I flower of the 
 inished — an in- 
 jtcd. We con- 
 ised as a monu- 
 mplction, wlien 
 have alluded to 
 id, seventy-four 
 'eet high, Tlie 
 former bears an 
 the country as- 
 
 , not, as on our 
 
 der the light of 
 
 the same yacht 
 
 Asiatics had oon- 
 y, and that their 
 The Ganges 
 They must 
 ins, at least once 
 They come 
 n the holy city, 
 inces, successful 
 ists and the |)eo- 
 recting majestic 
 e use of the pil- 
 rhauts, the high, 
 •raced with per- 
 five, six, seven, 
 and freestone, 
 d shape, and are 
 
 OS 
 
 extravagantly ornamented with colonnades, corridors, balconies, 
 niches, large and small domes, towers, pavilions, and pinnacles, 
 which are set off with gilding and bright colors. The moscpie, 
 witii its tapering minarets, occasionally interjected among the tem- 
 ples, lends a pleasing relief to the Hindoo architecture, while its 
 severe form and outlines seem to reprove the prolific imagination 
 of the Hindoos. A highly-picturesque scene presented itself on the 
 river-bank. Citizens, pilgrims, men, women, and children — singly, 
 in groups, and in throngs — are ascending and descending the stair- 
 eases, bearing on their heads bronze urns and vases, large and 
 small, of ibrins as graceful as the Etruscan. Even the stately ele- 
 phant seems to have adopted the mystic faith, for we saw him many- 
 times walk down the staircase, which had been nicely adapted to 
 the human footstep, fill his trunk, and solemnly return. Pilgrims 
 were plunging into the water from platforms and boats and barges 
 of fanciful construction, some in the shape of peacocks, swans, and 
 fishes. All the devotees dress in snow-white robes as they leave 
 the water, to -ive effect to the idea that immersion purifies. The 
 funeral-fires of the previous night are still blazing. How can they 
 be extinguished? All that are in the city must die, and all that 
 die are brought here. Having passed the entire river-front in the 
 yacht, we dismissed it and returned through the streets of the city. 
 They are close and narrow, but well paved, and, compared with the 
 Chinese cities, excepting Canton, they are clean. The chief temple 
 is that of Siva, the representative of the principle of destruction 
 aiid reproduction. The dome and the towers are of burnished 
 jrokl. Siv^a is the same round, black stone set in the floor as at 
 Calcutta. Far greater reverence is paid to him here. Access and 
 ogress are made almost impossible by the multitude of pilgrims and 
 votaries, who come into the temples laden with perfumes, fruits, 
 tlowers, and urns of holy water. Priests receive these oblations 
 and appropriate them as perquisites, nor did the holy men disdain 
 to receive some bright silver rupees from our unworthy and pro- 
 fane hands. Three small, gentle, and very pretty sacred white 
 cows, with wreaths of orange-flowers and roses around their necks, 
 wander at pleasure in the holiest recesses of the temple, among 
 
<» eta 
 
 
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 m »* 
 
 « •( It 
 
 <» 
 
 lii^ 
 
 It 
 
 It; 
 
 If* 
 
KINCOB BROCADE. 
 
 41i 
 
 the worshippers, who feed them with rose-leaves and lotus- 
 flowers. 
 
 But what a poor apology for human devotion is that of Siva 
 compared with the exhibition of that sentiment which is presented 
 to Doorga ! At the temple of the former it is a black stone that is 
 lionored ; at that of the Doorga it is the living, moving animal crea- 
 tion, the monkey. Moreover, these monkeys seem to appreciate 
 their celestial privileges and honors. They are of all sorts and 
 sizes. We saw them by rlie thousand gambolling in the courts, 
 "racing and chasing" through the corridors, and mischievously 
 laughing upon the worshippers below from columns and cornices, 
 from balustrades and balconies. 
 
 Edifices of all sorts, even the dwelling-houses, are stupendous 
 and massive. The basements are used for mechanics and other 
 tenants of low degree. The upper stories, guarded by bars and 
 screens, are the gorgeous zenanas ; fit fiimily dwellings for a people 
 who, unanimously thinking that the virtue of woman can only be 
 secured by her imprisonment, magnanimously try to relieve that 
 durance by extravagant indulgences of luxury and ostentation. 
 The shops are seldom more than eight feet square. The articles 
 made are chiefly ornaments and religious tokens. As, in ancient 
 Ephesus, the people principally supported themselves by making 
 images of Diana, so the people of Benares largely support them- 
 selves by the manufacture of idols — idols great, idols small, idols 
 white, idols black, idols red, idols yellow, idols of bronze, iron, 
 wood, stone, porcelain, and glass. 
 
 AVe visited the warehouse of the Mncob — a brocade, the most 
 exquisite of fibrous fabrics ; its materials, the richest of silk and 
 the purest of gold, worn by the native princes, bnboos, and zemin- 
 dars, woven in patterns five yards long and one yard wide. A 
 pattern never costs less than three hundred dollars. The merchant 
 displays in a book the names of a few English ladies as customers, 
 but their purchases were very small. Is it not strange that the na- 
 tive rulers of India, after disasters which have deprived them of 
 their independence and universally impoverished if not ruined them, 
 continue to dress in costumes which no Western state of wealth 
 
416 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 !" 
 
 m .• 
 
 
 
 dn 
 
 in* 
 
 can command ? The merchant in the East, eveiywhere, is amiable 
 and polite. The vendor of kincob received us, who merely came 
 to look at his wares, with bouquets and garlands when we came, and 
 showered us with rose-water when we departed. 
 
 Superstition counts the population of Benares by the million, 
 and its sacred edifices by the thousand. The real population is one 
 hundred and fifty thousand, and it contains between three and four 
 hundred temples. So much of the history of Benares as we have 
 not related was sublimely spoken, by Burke in his account of the 
 cruelty of Warren Hastings to the Maharajah Cheyte Sing, ances- 
 tor of our host. What we have left unsaid of the incomparable 
 magnificence of the city is told by Macaulay in his essay on War- 
 ren Hastings. 
 
 THUl'LES AT UUNARES. 
 
ere, is amiable 
 merely came 
 a we came, and 
 
 by the million, 
 )pulatioii is one 
 . three and fonr 
 ires as we have 
 account of the 
 i^te Sing, ances- 
 e incomparable 
 5 essay on War- 
 
 QUEEN'S COLLEGE, BENARES. 
 
CHAPTER YIII. 
 
 « 
 
 
 •ft!*' 
 
 m • 
 I* 
 
 « It 
 
 I as 
 
 I 
 
 f 
 
 ^^ 
 
 till 
 
 In* 
 
 ALLAHABAD, LUCKNOW, AND AGRA. 
 
 Allahabad, the City of God, — Cawnporc— Lucknow, th^ Capital of Oude. — Extent of the 
 Country. — Arrival at Agra, — A Marvellous Monument of Arms, Arts, and Empite,— 
 Akbar the Great. — His Vast Architectural Works. — The Pearl Mosque. — Futteliporo 
 Sikra.— Its Great Wall.— The Tomb of Sheik Selim Chishti.— The Panch Mahal.— Ak 
 bar's Tomb. — His Wealth. — His Horses and his Elephants. — Weighing his Presents. 
 
 March ISith. — Allahabad (the city of God), once a Molmmino 
 dan town, has now relapsed to the religion of Bramah. It stands 
 on the Juinna, just above its confluence with the Ganges. It de- 
 rives its present importance from its being the place of junction for 
 the railroads of Northern India with the main eastern and western 
 line, which connects Bombay and Calcutta. The railroad bridge 
 across the Jumna is celebrated throughout the world. Allahabad 
 is a large military station, and the capital of the northwestern 
 provinces. It has a public garden, which receives a picturesque 
 effect from two massive Mohammedan tombs or imambarras. 
 
 We were met at the station, at ten o'cloclc last night, bv 
 an officer, and conducted to Government House, the residence 
 of the governor. Sir William Muir. This spacious and elegant 
 structure was illuminated for a concert. Hospitality attended 
 with less ostentation, or a mors sympathetic kindness, wc have 
 never known. Sir William and Lady Muir not only believe in 
 works of education, but they are patrons of the '" Woman's Union 
 Society of America." A sudden indisposition prevented Mr. 
 Seward's attendance at a dinner made for him by the United 
 
CAWNrORE AND LUCKXOV/. 
 
 419 
 
 Military and Civil Service Club of the Nortliwostern Provinces, 
 and the zealous Ameiican mip'iionaries residing here. 
 
 Cawnvore, 2farch ^Qth. — Lady Muir accompanied ns to our 
 ear at one o'clock this morning. We rode through ripening wheat- 
 fields, and reached the town on the south side of the Ganges at 
 sunrise. We write these notes while crossing that river on a pon- 
 toon bridge, a form especially adapted to rivers like this, which are 
 subject to immense freshets and floods. 
 
 )ucle. — Extent of the 
 Arts, and Empiic— 
 Vlosqiie. — Futtehpore 
 e Panch Mahal.— Ak 
 eighing bis Piesonts. 
 
 ce a Mohamme 
 mah. It stand* 
 mges. It de- 
 e of junction for 
 em and western 
 railroad bridge 
 »rld. Allahabad 
 le northwestern 
 es a picturesque 
 amharras. 
 last night, by 
 I, the residence 
 ous and elegant 
 vitality attended 
 ndncss, wc have 
 only believe in 
 Woman's Unicn 
 prevented Mr. 
 by the United 
 
 Lucknow, March VlsI. — We came forty miles to this city, the 
 capital of the once independent but now nominal kingdom of 
 Oude, over a branch of tho East India Railway, and through the 
 valley of the Goomty, a tributary of the Ganges. The soil, often 
 and severely swept by deluges, is poor. We are guests here of 
 General Barrow, now Commissioner (that is to say, Lieutenant- 
 Governor) of Oude. With an area half as large as that of the State 
 of Xew York, Oude has a population of three millions. Its ancient 
 
 RE8IDE.N0Y AT LUf'KNOW, 
 
420 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 
 10 
 
 • .a. 
 I* 
 
 ■ 
 
 1 «l 4 
 
 Ml 
 
 ;tl>«> 
 
 Mogul capital, which in our maps bears the name of Oudc, is now 
 called Fyzabad. Lucknow has enjoyed that distinction one hun- 
 dred and twenty years, and now contains half a million oi inhali- 
 itants. It is doubtless true that Great Britain owes her em]nrc in 
 India more to the dissension of its native rulers than to the foice 
 of arms. We have already seen enough of the country to know 
 that the causes of those dissensions were, like the divisions aniono' 
 our aboriginal tribes, deep and lasting. Tlie Bramin religion, 
 where it was universal, had no effect to produce unity among tlie 
 tribal communities dispersed over vast territory, and rendered 
 irreconcilable by diversity of climate^ race, and language. Tlie 
 Tartars or Scythians, border nations on the North, continually in- 
 truded, producing alienation between the Hindoo communitio?, 
 while the conquering Mohammedans, by an arrogant rule, op- 
 pressed and crushed the natives. 
 
 Agra, March 2M. — Leaving the Ganges at Ca.vnporo, we came, 
 by the East India Railway, to Toondla junction, and thence, over a 
 branch, to Agra, on the Jumna, one hundred and thirty miles nortli- 
 west from Allahabad. Some hills, which we crossed, are without 
 irrigation and barren, but the co.mtry generally wears the same as- 
 pect as the plain of the Ganges, The irrigated wheat-fields yield 
 sixteen bushels to the acre. The population is four hundred to a 
 square mii;\ They have no modern agricultural implements or 
 machinery. Deficient in industry as in energy, they sit on the 
 ground when they use the sickle. That they are liumane is seen in 
 the largo privileges they yield to the gleaners. 
 
 When we came to Benares, the gentleman who met us there 
 said, "We are glad that you came here before going to Agra." 
 " You do well," said General Barrow, " to see Lucknow before 
 going to Agra." Both were right. 
 
 Benares, although unique and grand, now seems to us as 
 merely an embodiment of an inactive sentiment of mystic devo- 
 tion. Lucknow is the fnnciful ca])ital of an ephemeral jdngdoni. 
 Agra, though ruined, is a marvellous monument of arms, arts, 
 and empire. During a period of one hundred and fifty years., and 
 
AGRA. 
 
 421 
 
 until the reign of Akbar, the successors of Tamerlane made little 
 ijrogress in consolidating their empire in India. That monarch, 
 the greatest, wisest, and best of them all, enlarged it from three 
 provinces to fifteen, and founded the capital at Agra, which soon 
 irrcw into a magnilicent city of half a million. His successors, per- 
 haps wisely, perhaps necessarily, removed the Mogul throne to 
 Delhi ; and Agra, experiencing no subseipient renovation in the 
 casualties of war and concpiest, has shrunk into a provincial town 
 of a quarter of its former population. There are three monuments 
 liere and in the vicinity which are the work of Akbar : the fort of 
 Aiijra, Futtehpore Sikra, and Secundra. These, together Avith the 
 famous Taj-Mahal, constitute the traveller's study here. The fort, 
 which has an ample moat and drawbridge, is a mile and a half in 
 eircnit, built entirely of red sandstone, and measures, from the foun- 
 dation to the embrasured battlements, seventy-two feet. It seems 
 to have been designed quite as much for civil use as for defence. 
 It now contains a British arsenal. Its area was filled with palatial 
 structures, of which two remain in a state of imperfect preservation, 
 the Imperial Palace and the Pearl Mosque. The substructions of 
 the palace are red sandstone, but nearly all of its porticos, courts, 
 corridors, chambers, and pavilions, are of polished white marble. 
 The walls of the balcony, which overhangs the Jumna, are finely 
 inlaid inside and outride with mosaics, which combine jasper, agate, 
 earnelian, bloodstone, lapis-lazuli, and malachite. The balcony is 
 guarded with balustrades of delicate marble fretwork. The apart- 
 ments of the zenana are extensive and of exquisite finish. They 
 look down upon what was once a garden. The fountains, which 
 threw fanciful jets into bathing-rooms, are broken up, but the 
 vaulted roofs of marble tracery still remain filled with the thou- 
 sands of miniature prismatic mirrors. The Divan, in Oriental 
 speech called the " Judgment-seat of Akbar," is a grand open por- 
 tico, with Saracenic roof and arches, resting on three rows of col- 
 umns. In its centre is & marble throne, inlaid, like the pavilion 
 which covers it, with mosaic wreaths and texts from the Koran, 
 composed of jasper and earnelian. A tablet, in the wall behind 
 the throne, bears the inscription "Ain Akbaree" (the Laws of 
 
 28 
 
 I 
 
t 
 
 •» .1 4 
 
 
 « .1 1» 
 
 •*. * 
 
 I*. 
 
 a. ' - 
 
 Hi 
 
 11! 
 
 I II • 
 
 Ui m,. 
 
 •^ 
 
 M'/i 
 
 M-^^ 
 
 
 EXTERIOR OF THE FORT. 
 
 small, but 
 eludes equr 
 acquaintaiK 
 tance to th 
 I'araons san 
 carried awa 
 
THE PEARL MOSQUE. 
 
 4-^:5 
 
 Akbar). A Persian poet lias written beneath it, in his own lan- 
 j;imge, " The Euler of the AVorld." 
 
 The Motee 2£us}ifl, poetically Pearl Mosque, and the pearl of 
 all mosques, consists of a single corridor of polislied white marble, 
 ffith three rows of Saracenic pillars and arches, whuh support a 
 marble dome, encircled with gilded minarets. 
 
 Tlie uiuiensions are 
 
 INLAID aCKEEN. TOMB OF MINA BGO0M, AQRA. 
 
 small, but the symmetry is perfect, while a severe simplicity ex- 
 cliulos equally blemish, fault, or excess. Less fortunate in official 
 acquaintance here than elsewhere, we were unable to gain admit- 
 tance to the storehouse in the arsenal, in which are preserved the 
 tamons sandal- wood gates which Sultan Mahmoud of Ghuznee 
 Ciirried away from the ancient ecclesiastical city of Somnath to 
 
424 
 
 BltlTISII INDIA. 
 
 Afghanistan, eight hnndred years ago, and which the British 
 brought back in 1842, to please their Hindoo subjects. 
 
 
 t 
 
 if. 
 
 fja. 
 a' I m 
 
 *i 
 
 Mi;: 
 lilt 
 
 March 2S(l. — Futtchp(»re Sikra is twenty-two miles west of 
 Agra. Desirous to avoid travel under a mid-day heat, we con- 
 tracted yesterday, with the landlord, for a carriage and two horses, 
 to leave the hotel at five o'clock this morning, with relays on the 
 road. By dint of labor, we awakened the landlord, servant.^, and 
 drivers, and got off at half-past six, with only one horse, and no 
 provision for a relay. The smooth road over a level plain exhibits 
 on all sides the ruins of mosques and palaos of the once groat 
 capital. As this was practically our first private excursion in the 
 country, we greatly enjoyed the novel rural Fcenes it presented. 
 Here was the primitive Hindoo well or fountain by the roadside, 
 from wliicli veiled maidens were filling their polished brazen urn:!, 
 We saw even the youthful Jacob, helping a bashful Rachel to poise 
 a pitcher on her head. The dress of the people is more strikinir, 
 both in fashion and color, than we have before seen. Tlie crow is 
 here in force as everywhere, but is outnumbered by the ring-dove. 
 Adjutants and flamingos marshalled us through avenues of flower- 
 ing acacias and mangos. Oxen, asses, and camels, in trains and 
 loaded with cotton, obstructed the way. 
 
 Futtehpore Sikra was an imperial suburb built by Akhar, and 
 was six miles in circumference. lie enclosed the whole by a high 
 embrasured wall of red sandstone. This fortification, with its lofty 
 Saracenic gate, remains as if in mockery, protecting the now deso- 
 lated theatre of imperial pomp and recreation. Our one jaded I 
 beast gave out when we reached this gate. A native guide met us 
 there, and we found his strong arm useful in climbing the rockn 
 ledge under a burning sun. He led ns, by a circuitous patli over 
 broken columns and fallen arches, into a court covered with masses 
 oi debris. Before us rose a terrace, which we were to ascend bv| 
 one hundred stone steps. This staircase was crowned by a Sara- 
 cenic gate-way one hundred and twenty feet high. Ascending thel 
 easy and yet unbroken stairway, we passed under the loftvarcli, 
 which invites the pilgrim of every land to the tomb of Sheik 
 
 I" 
 
licli the British 
 bjects. 
 
 • miles west of 
 ly hciit, wc con- 
 3 and two horses, 
 •ith relays on tlie 
 )r(l, servants, and 
 nc horse, and no 
 ;vel plain exhibits 
 )f the once great 
 
 excursion in tlie 
 nies it presented 
 I by the roadside, 
 ished brazen \mi. 
 ful Rachel to poi^e 
 } is more strildng, 
 ;een. The crow is 
 I by the ring dove. 
 
 avenues of tlower- 
 nels, in trains and 
 
 uilt by Akbar, and 
 he whole by a higli 
 ation, with its lot\v 
 ting the now deso- 
 Our one jaded 
 ativc guide met us 
 climbing the rody 
 ircuitous path over 
 ■overed with masses 
 were to ascend by| 
 ;rowned by a San- 
 jh. Ascending tlie I 
 ider the lofty arcliJ 
 the tomb of Slieik 
 
 
 u 
 
 
 w 
 
 2, 
 
 w 
 o 
 ■J) 
 
426 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 Selim Chishti, the religious monitor of Akbar. Here we rested a 
 moment to examine the stupendous open doors, which, though fur. 
 rowed by the storms of three hundred years, are still almost literallv 
 
 aw "» Hi 
 
 I- 
 
 IB 
 
 • ••• 
 
 si 
 
 t: '! 
 
 tjt: 
 
 hAliA(KNIC (iATK. 
 
 covered with gilded horseshoes. The souhahdars of the empire in 
 their pride took them from the hoofs of favorite steeds, and affixed 
 them on the gates in token of fealty to Akbar. Passing from the 
 gate, we stood in a court four hundred feet square, closely paveil 
 with dark-red hewn sandstone. On the several sides of the court 
 is a corridor fifty feet wide, with a roof resting on pillars of red 
 sandstone fifty feet high. A central fountain lends a peculiar grace 
 to the court. The tomb of the sheik is beyond the fountain, op- 
 posite to the great portal, and is surmounted by a lofty, triple- 
 
FUTTEIIPORE SIKRA. 
 
 427 
 
 [ei-G we rested a 
 licli, thougli fiir- 
 11 almost literallv 
 
 
 'S of the empii'p in 
 steeds, and affixed 
 
 Passing from tlie 
 lare, closely paved 
 sides of the court 
 
 on pillars of red 
 ids a peculiar grace 
 
 I the fountain, op- 
 
 by a lofty, triple- 
 
 Joined mosque of white niarhlc. The pedestal or platform is of 
 jas['t'r. The sareoidiagus resting on it has a canopy six feet high, 
 and both are of unmixed motiier-of-pearl. The whole structure is 
 lirotccted on all sides by a white marble screen, composed of panels, 
 ei^lit feet square, of open Ulagree work, inhiid with carneliai^. It 
 (It'tnc'ts somewhat from the character of Sheik Selim Chishti for 
 ascetic virtue, as well as from the character of Akbar for munifi- 
 cence, that this gorgeous tomb was built with the private assets of 
 the saint himself, at a cost of nearly two million dollars. We 
 climbed the roof of the corridor and looked down on a mass and 
 medley of ruins, bounded only by the outer wall. The desolation 
 seemed complete, except that here and there we distinguished a 
 pavilion not entirely dilapidated, a pointed arch, a monument or a 
 [linnac'le, which maintains its solitary position in defiance of time. 
 We now repaired to the palace in which Akbar resided. It might 
 with no great expense be restored. It is not one compact structure, 
 but consists of many edifices, some quite distant from the others. 
 
 Moved by a tradition which prevails here that Akbar had a 
 Christian wife, brought from Constantinople, wo explored a suite 
 of apartments which she is said to have occupied, expecting to find 
 relics of her piety and devotion. But wo had no more success hero 
 than in our inquiries for " Jessie Brown " at Lucknow. There 
 still remain in these sumptuous apartments some fine frescos, the 
 work evidently of Persian artists — while the walls and ceilings ex- 
 liibit a wonderful elaboration of sculpture. 
 
 It is impossible now to obtain a correct idea of the uses of the 
 different corridors, courts, pavilions, and gate-ways which intervene 
 between the principal structures of the palace. One of these is 
 very curious, the Panch Mahal. It consists of five pavilions, each 
 of which is supported by carved pillars. The several pavilions are 
 in stories or stages, one above another, making the form of a 
 pyramid. Another pavilion has a large suite of apartments ar- 
 ranged in a labyrinth. Tradition says that the ladies of the harem 
 used this part of the building for the diversion of hide-and-seek. 
 There is a square edifice, standing quite by itself- and covered by a 
 dome: on the outside, it appears to be of two stories ; within, how- 
 
i«iWffl(«»«w^te^^ 
 
 
 
 
 / 
 
 BPiH 
 
 I 
 
 i(*4 
 
 ^^i^^- 
 
 "j^^^^' 
 
 PIULAn IN AKBARS COUNCIL-CHAMBER. 
 
THE PANCII MAHAL. 
 
 4-^9 
 
 ever, it is open from the floor to the ceilin«^ of the doiiie. A 
 massive carved pillar rises iii the (ientre from the floor to the 
 ceiling. Fifteen feet from the floor is a gallery with a balustrade 
 ciicireling the chamber. From each corner of this gallery a plat- 
 form, Avith a like balustrade, connects horizontally with a circular 
 gallery built around the central column. 
 
 ■I 
 
 I'ANfll MAMAl,. 
 
 M8ER. 
 
 Akbar was a contemporary of Queen Elizabeth. Tiiey assure us 
 that he sat on the central platform and leaned against the column, 
 which supports it, while he listened to the instructions in science, 
 morals, and religion, of sages and saints wiiom he had summoned 
 from all the schools aiul cloisters of the East, and who were arranged 
 on the outer phitform around him. The broad disk of the dial by 
 nhich the Mo^ul nu^narch measured the liours remains. There is 
 still in good preservation the place where Akbar stood while ro- 
 
430 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 ^- 
 
 
 
 •e 
 
 
 . 
 
 m 
 
 
 
 •■■:. 
 
 V 
 
 - m 
 
 « 
 
 • 
 
 lit 
 
 « 
 
 
 ceiving the homage of his subjects at his levees or durlars. Xor 
 is there wanting unequivocal evidence that the great man deUghtcd 
 in games of chance. An open square of sixty feet has a pavement, 
 arranged as a chess-board, in blocks of black and white marble. 
 Instead of ivory, bronze, or wooden chess-men, the contendinjr 
 kings, queens, knights, bishops, castles, and pawns, were beautiful 
 slave-women, who moved as directed by the monarch or his oppo- 
 nent. They add further that the performers themselves were the 
 stake for which the game was played. A building known as the 
 palace of Beerbal was assigned by Akbar to his favorite prime- 
 minister. It remains in fine preservation, and our architects and 
 artists might study to advantage its classic design and elaborate 
 sculpture. If the ghost of the favorite is allowed to revisit the 
 scene of his power, he might well exclaim, " To what base uses" 
 has my palace " come at last ! " when he saw us, infidel republicans 
 of the West, loitering, lunching, and lounging in his elegant ciiam- 
 bers. \Ve pass without particular mention the so-called " Antelope 
 Tower," one hundred feet high, studded with imitation elephantvs'' 
 tusks, as well as the triumphal arch, guarded by colored elephants. 
 But we must not omit to record that, excepting the tomb, mosque, 
 and other merely ornamental structures, the entire town of Fut- 
 tehpore Sikra was built wholly of fine freestone ; no baser 
 material entered into the construction for the purpose of either 
 foundation, column, wall, roof, or dome. 
 
 We historically know that this palace was built in 1571, and 
 that Akbar resided in it twelve years. AVe have no account of tlie 
 period when its decay began, or how rajiid has been its fall into 
 neglect and ruin. 
 
 IK ! 
 
 March ^^th. — If a man desires that there shall be a monument 
 to perpetuate his memory, he does wisely, in a worldly sense, if 
 he builds it himself. Akbar's tomb at Secundra shows that lie 
 had this wisdom. lie extended the Mogul Empire from the Indus 
 to the Bay of Bengal. Historians rather indicate his wealth hy 
 anecdote than describe his habits of life. They tell us tliat his 
 })rivate huntiiig-stud, used also for war-j)urposcs, consisted of five 
 
lurhars. Kor 
 man delighted 
 s a pavement, 
 white marhle. 
 le contending 
 ivere beautiful 
 1 or his oppo- 
 clves were tlie 
 known as the 
 favorite prime- 
 architects and 
 and elaborate 
 to revisit the 
 lat base uses" 
 ilel republicans 
 5 elejTjant chani- 
 lled " Antelupo 
 ition elephants'' 
 ored elephants, 
 tomb, niosqiie, 
 3 town ot Fiit- 
 )no ; no baser 
 pose of cither 
 
 t in 1571, and 
 > account of the 
 3en its fall into 
 
 be a tnonument 
 orldly sense, if 
 shows that he 
 iVoni the Indus 
 ■ his wealth hy 
 oil us that his 
 onsisted of five 
 
 cc 
 
 (fl 
 
 UJ 
 
 k 
 
 m 
 
 
 
 Q 
 uJ 
 > 
 
 <: 
 o 
 
432 
 
 BlimSII INDIA. 
 
 thousand elephants and ten thousand horses. We do not know 
 whether he was the first to set the example which is said still to 
 prevail among the princes ot the East, ot weighing his gratuities in 
 gold against his own weight on festive occasions; it is, howevur, 
 certain, that this monarch on one such occasion weighed a gratuity 
 in gold against his own person, a second gratuity in silver, and a 
 third in perfumes. 
 
 «*^ 
 
 
 Itt: 
 
 
 l» 
 
 
 »l 
 
 
 •S 
 
 « 
 
 K 
 
 '. . 
 
 
 n 
 
 rt 
 
 •♦ 
 
 • , 
 
 « 
 
 *« 
 
 ! 
 
 
 • 
 
 i 
 « 
 
 ' 
 
 It; 
 
 nil' 
 
 akuar'A tomb at rkoundua. 
 
lo not know 
 5 said still to 
 i gratuities in 
 
 is, however, 
 led a gratuity 
 
 silver, and a 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 SECUXDRA AND THE TAJ-MAHAL. 
 
 The Tomb of Ak))ar. — Derivation of tlie Name of Secundra. — Tlio Taj-Malial, the Toinl) 
 of t';o Bauoo Begum. — Der-cviption of the Taj. — The Tomb of King Cotton. — The 
 Inferiority of Indian Cotton. — Mode of Packing it. 
 
 The plain over whldi we drove, five miles to Secundra, shows 
 some imaniharras and other less pretentious Moorish tombs, all 
 dilapidated or in ruins. The greaj; imandjarra, here called simply 
 the tomb of Akbar, stands on a terrace of moderate elevation, in 
 the centre of an iunuenso garden, wliich overlooks the Jumna. 
 The entrance to the garden is thi'ough a Saracenic gate-way, with a 
 white marble minaret rising on either side, and towering high 
 above the apex of the lofty arch. Besides a profusion of roses and 
 other flowering shrubs, the garden makes a rich display of mango, 
 orange, date, prdm, perpul, and banyan trees. The perpul, with 
 its branches bending in the Mind and trailing on the ground, is 
 emblematic of mourning in the East, as the willow is in the AVest. 
 A series of oblong marble fountains, stretching doMm a terraced 
 slope, filled with the lotus and other aquatic plants, divides into two 
 parts the grand avenue which leads through the gate from the gar- 
 den to the tomb. The imambarra cover.- a space of three hundred 
 feet, u' on a platform of wdtite marble four hundred feet scpiare. It 
 luiH five stories, each ui>pcr story being of smaller dimensions than 
 the one beneath it. The four lower stories are built of red sand- 
 Btone — the upper one, including floor, <lomo, and cupola, is ot 
 
 I ■ I 
 
434 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 «;: 
 
 mail -"I'l 
 
 •"■•4, 
 
 « -.. « 
 
 • •"* 
 
 s 
 
 I 
 
 II. ! 
 
 polished white marl)le. The exterior of the several stories, instead 
 of having balustrades, is ornamented with pavilions, which, resting 
 on graceful columns, termiiuite in gilded spires. Having reached 
 the paved iloor of the first story, we descended an inclined plane, 
 into a spacious, oblong, arched vault, directly nnder the centre of 
 the edifice. Its roof rests on polished nuirble columns, the sppccs 
 between which arc filled with chiselled marble screens. A niarblo 
 sarcophagus within this vault contains the ashes of Akbar. The 
 covering of the sarcophagus is ornamented with flowering-vines, 
 and on its lid is an Arabic inscription. It is a favorite piincii)le 
 in Oriental architecture, that each distinct part must have a rela- 
 tive or corresponding part, called an answer. The princi])le is car- 
 ried here to absurdity : there is a mock sarcophagus on the marble 
 floor of the uppermost story, directly over the sarcophagus, wrought 
 in precisely the same form as the one below. Its lid is covered 
 with inscriptions, in raised letters, of the ninsty names of God. 
 This imambarra is, we doubt not, the most magnificent monument 
 which ever was raised to the memory of a eoncpieror. In 1808, it 
 served as a barrack for a regiment of dragoons, but the Government 
 of British India has since that time taken special care to protect it 
 e(pially from decay and desecration. Not a stone of the noble 
 structure has been removed or displaced. 
 
 We leave the tomb of tlie great Akbar with the single re- 
 mark that the name of the place which contains it, Secundm, is 
 an Indian derivation from tliat of the first European invader of 
 India, Alexander tlie Great. The name of that eoncpieror seem.s 
 to have secured the same admiration in the East which in the 
 "West has been so long accorded to that of Cjvsar. 
 
 Although Akbar is distinguished for having built for the de- 
 fence of his capital the unequalled fort of Agra, with itu splendid 
 palace and its beautiful Pearl ]\rosque, and although he converted 
 the stony ledge of Futtehporc Sikra into an architectural vision for 
 an illustration of his reign, and although he built for himself at 
 Secundra a monument nn)re admirable than that ot Cheops, never- 
 theless, it remained for a descendant to raise a monument more 
 exquisite than any of tliese — a monument, indeed, which is admit- 
 
THE TAJ-MA HAL. 
 
 435 
 
 arics, instead 
 •liicli, rcritin;i; 
 viug readied 
 iclined piano, 
 the ecutre of 
 ns, the sppees 
 s. A niarhle 
 Akhar. The 
 )W-oviug-viues, 
 )rite piineiple 
 t have a rela- 
 rineii)lc is ear- 
 on the mavl)le 
 lagus, -Nvrou^dit 
 lid is coverod 
 lanies of God. 
 ent nioninnent 
 r. In 1808, it 
 G Government 
 re to protect it 
 of the noble 
 
 the single ro- 
 t, Secundra^ \^ 
 can invader of 
 )r(pieror seeni.s 
 whieh in the 
 
 ilt for the de- 
 th itu splendid 
 he converted 
 tural vision for 
 
 for himself at 
 
 Cheops, never- 
 lonument more 
 
 which is admit- 
 
 ted by the whole world to be the most beautiful that the earth has 
 ever beheld. 
 
 An opinion prevails to some extent in the 'West that the Taj- 
 Mahal is the tomb of Xourmahal, '"the Light of the Harem," in 
 Moore's " Lalla Rookh." ]hit that is an error. " The Light of the 
 Harem," the young iS'ourmahal, was bui'ol at Lahore. Shah 
 Jelian, the son of Jehangeer, and grandson of Akbar, who built 
 tlie Taj-Mahal, to be the tomb of his sultana, IJanoo Begum, was 
 a prince of magniiicent tastes. He was also called to endure 
 many trials and much suffering. History does not attemj)t to tell 
 how the Danoo Begum, more than others of her sex, deserved the 
 
 TAJ-MAIIAI.. 
 
 ^roat distinction which she attained. Poets in the East, in their 
 imaginative dreamings, have tried to 8U})ply this shortcoming of his- 
 tory. They describe her as beautiful, graceful, gentle, loving, and 
 
436 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 
 r 
 
 r 
 
 • ;. 
 I* 
 
 f 
 
 
 IK ' 
 
 ilia 
 
 faitlifiil, but Inindreds, thousands, and millions, who have been as 
 lovable as she is thus described, have passed away without nioiiii- 
 ment, though they may have been neither " unwept, unhonored, iKir 
 unsung." Let the natural suggestion of our own hearts furnish 
 the solution. Whatever else Banoo Begum may have been, or 
 niay have done, she was beautiful, she loved Shah Jchan devotedly 
 and he loved her more than all the world beside. Tradition savs 
 that she called her husband to her side in her last hours, and ro- 
 • |uired him to promise her two things: First, that he -would not 
 -narry again; and, second, that he would build her a beautiful tomb. 
 A 'e reject the tradition, for we arc unAvilling to believe that a 
 wo..., ill who could inspire such love as his could have doubted his 
 Udelity, or have been concerned about her own interment. 
 
 The Taj stands upon the centre of a terrace, within a walled 
 garden of twenty-five acres, on the banks of the Jumna. At either 
 end of the terrace is an edifice of massive sandstone, Avith a dome 
 of the same uuiterial. Midway between these is the incompnralle 
 Taj. As you approach, through an outer paved and walled pre- 
 cinct, the grand gate-way comes into view. It is a majestic Sara- 
 cenic arch, eighty feet high, springing from two abutments of red 
 sandstone, having white marble panels, which are completely 
 covered with texts from the Koran, inlaid in black marble, ar.d 
 each being surmounted by a white-marble minaret. Coming under 
 the arch, and looking through a long vista formed by rows of Ital- 
 ian cypress-trees ])lantcd on either side of a series of crystal foun- 
 tains, you see the Taj rising from an elevation of thirty feet above 
 the terrace. The platform, in the middle of the terrace, is a square 
 of four hundred feet, paved with white marble, and each cornei 
 bears an excpiisitc white-marble minaret, two hundred feet liifrli. 
 The Taj is a square structure of one hundred and fifty feet, reduced 
 to an octagonal figure, with four principal faces, by having the cor- 
 ners cut down. The four smaller faces are lower than the lari,^er 
 ones. The entire edifice is built of polished white marble. Its 
 Oriental dome, first swelling into a globe, tapers upward into a 
 spire which is surmounted by a golden crescent. Four lesser 
 domes of the same matchless form crown the truncated fagade?. 
 
THE TAJ-MAIIAL. 4;;7 
 
 At the centre of each of the four wide sides or fronts is a porch, 
 (Oi'-isting of a single Saracenic arch, which I'ises from the j)ave- 
 ineut two-thirds of the height of tlie biiikling. Between these 
 (jreat arclies the wall is relieved by two lesser arches of the san, 
 form, one above the other, producing, at a distance, the ap})earan''i 
 of windows. The whole Koran is written, by ( hapters, in flowing 
 letters of delicately-inlaid black marble, over the carved ])ilaslers, 
 architraves, and arches. Entering the porch, opposite the great 
 iratc-way, you descend a gently-inclined plane, as in the tomb of 
 Akbar, and reach a vaulted white-marble chamber directly under 
 the centre of the edifice. The light, admitted through the door by 
 which you have entered, is collected and concentrated on the mar- 
 ble sarcophagus of Banoo Begum. A si .11&-' though smaller sar- 
 cophagus is placed in the shadow — it holds .. 3 dust of her lover- 
 husband. Shah Jehan. Each of these tombs is of marble as pure as 
 the purest of Carrara, the sultana's nios!" elaborately inlaid with 
 vmes, interwoven with t'^xts from Hie Ivoran, traced in blood- 
 stone, agate, carnelian, lapis-iiwiuli, m ichite, jasj)er, garnets, em- 
 eralds, rubies, topaz, and sapphires. Ascending to the main tloor 
 .if the edifice, over the vaulted chamber, you are in the centre of 
 an octagonal temple, and look up into a dome of snowy marble, 
 two hundred and sixty-two feet high. This interior, though of vast 
 ilimensions, has such delicate proportions, and such harnu)ny of 
 light, that you are not at all oppressed with a sense of gi-andeur or 
 imniensity, but only of a consciousness oi' exquisite, indescribable 
 beauty. Although we stepped regularly, timidly, and lightly, yet 
 uur footsteps brought down deafening reverberations from the 
 dome. Our conversation came back to us in a confusion of thun- 
 ilcrs, and a gentle whisper Avas repeated over and over again, like 
 tones of music dying in the distance. On the rich mosaic floor, di- 
 rectly above the real tond), are the duplicate sarcophagi, and a flood 
 ot mellowed light, brought through a single aperture in the dome, 
 streams over the answering memorial of the beautiful l>egum. 
 These simulated cenotaphs are ornamented in the same manner as 
 the real ones below, but more elaborately and more excpiisitely. 
 
 They are protected by an octagonal screen, eight feet high, of mar- 
 Si) 
 
488 
 
 BPJTISII INDIA. 
 
 mar 
 
 I* 
 
 I ti a .. 
 
 M 
 
 .« .1 -^ 
 
 ' % 
 
 n; 
 
 I 
 
 II a 
 
 Lie lace-worlc, niarvcllonsly iiitenvoven with stems, leaves, aiul 
 flowers of the lotus and of the rose, all encircled Avith a wavinc 
 Avreatli of p;racefiil, tender, twining passion-tlower, in mosaic of 
 precious stones and gems. 
 
 Man's chief subject of contem])lation is his Creator, his Tleduciii- 
 er, his Saviour. In action he balances between desire for power and 
 love of freedom. lie has attempted to express all these eniotiun.s 
 in architecture. The Parthenon is his highest expression, in that 
 form, of awe of the gods. St. Peter's speaks, with not less distinct- 
 ness, his sentiment of religious devotion. The Pyramids tell ]ii> 
 reverence for human grandeur. The Capitol, at AV^ashington, mani- 
 fests his love of freedom. The Taj-Mahal pretends to utter ni> 
 such lofty sentiments as these, but it speaks out, more naturally 
 than all, the gentlest, sweetest sentiment of human nature — pure, 
 spiritual love. A tale of love is written, an idyl is sung, a nulndv 
 of the tender passion breathes through this pure marble and these 
 precious jewels. The tomb of Panoo Pegum, in architecture, like 
 the apotheosis of Peatrice, in poetry, is without an original and 
 without a copy. 
 
 The Taj is a modern structnre. It is a sad reflection that the 
 name of the architect is already lust. Connoisseurs diiler in opin- 
 ion concerninur the stvle. Some call it Italian ; others insist that it 
 is Saracenic ; others pronounce it Persian. We incline to think it 
 eclectic, a blending of the beautiful in each. 
 
 March 2:>t/i. — From the tomb of the Mogul monarch (^f Indin. 
 Akbar, we passed to the tomb of the pretended monarch of Ameri- 
 ca, King Cotton. The failure, during our civil war, of the cnttdu- 
 supply, which had before been derived from the United State?. 
 obliged the European nations to seek it elsewhere. Kotaliio 
 attempts to cultivate the sta])le were made in Italy, but without 
 success. An efl^ort of tlic Viceroy of Egypt was hardly more effect- 
 nal. India promised better. Cotton was indigenous, and success- 
 fully cultivated in the plains which divide the Indus from the 
 Ganges. The importunate demand of the European markets 
 stimulated the pi'oduction there. Fortrnes were made by epeeu- 
 
 liition n 
 \eu' () 
 At the 
 
 ^dvant/igol 
 I'l' wlietjiel 
 States. 'II 
 tree labor,, 
 "■eloft hoil 
 fi'iind thatl 
 that the cc 
 t'ess, morec 
 fndia, althi 
 •\?ini, thel 
 ^U'cxainiJ 
 f'Tthc mal 
 hetwcen a 
 simple me J 
 
COTTON MKRrilANTS. 
 
 4'^\) 
 
 s, leaves, and 
 with a waviiij; 
 J in luusau' of 
 
 or, his Tledocni- 
 •e for power and 
 
 these emotions 
 pression, in tluit 
 not less distinct- 
 vramids tell liis 
 ashington, niani- 
 nds to utter \\u 
 ;, more naturally 
 m nature— pure. 
 is sung, a nulndy 
 marble and tlieso 
 
 architecture, like 
 ; an original and 
 
 eflection that the 
 
 urs diller in opin- 
 
 hers insist that it 
 
 incline to think it 
 
 monarch of India. 
 \( march of Aniuri- 
 ^var, of the cotttm- 
 United State?. 
 sewhere. ^^'t:dlle 
 Italy, but without 
 lardly more otled- 
 enous, and succcsf- 
 c Indus from tlie 
 European markets 
 re made by spccu- 
 
 liition in cotton almost as rapidly in r.ombay as they were lost in 
 Xew Orleans. Agra was the centre of the ])r(»ducing districts. 
 At the end of the war, it l)ecame a grave (piestion whetlier the 
 
 COTTON MKKCIIANTS. AdRA. 
 
 :iilvantage which had thus been gained bv India could be retained, 
 (T whether the great monopoly could be recovered by the United 
 States. The change of the system there, from one of slave labor to 
 tree lahor, worked to our prejudice, and doubts still remained, when 
 we left home, concerning the solution of the problem. "We have 
 t'oinul that solution here. The producers now universally confess 
 that the cotton is greatly inferior to the American fibre ; they con- 
 fer?, moreover, that the plant degenerates under the burning sun of 
 India, although they use the seed hnported from the United States. 
 Airain, the cU'orts to introduce improved machinery have failed. 
 We examined one of the establishments in Avhich cotton is prepared 
 fur the marlcet. The process is very rude. The cottim is passed 
 lietwcon a pair of wooden rollers which are moved l)y hand. This 
 simple mechanism is found in every house, and is an exclusive 
 
 \ 
 
440 
 
 BRITISH IXDIA. 
 
 <5: 
 
 occupation of women. The oporntion of packinLj is rpiitc as nido: 
 fivo men, with their feet, trample the cotton into a Buccessioii of 
 square boxes, one above the other; live other men hold the boxes 
 in their phices until tlie stack thus raided contains the comploiiHut 
 of a bale. An iron screw is then let down tlu'ou^h an uj>per tlom' 
 upon the centre of the cotton-stack. This screw is worked liv 
 eighty other men. Each laborer ejaculates or groans with cvliv 
 push that he gives the lever, and this groaning, cond)ined with the 
 noise of their tread upon the floor, i)roduces an indescribable iiml 
 ludicrous confusion. This examination convinced us that Sir liidi. 
 ard Temple did not misstate in the annual budget the decline ot 
 cotton-production. 
 
 !: 
 
 c 
 
 t 
 
 « .1* 
 
 J 
 
 •'1 
 
 Hi : 
 
 mi* 
 
 S 
 
 
 TUB TAJ, FBOSi TUX FOUMTATN. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 DELHI, THE MOGUL CAPITAL. 
 
 A Viviil roiitrast to Airra. — liiullow Ciistlo. — Hrief Sk('U!i of Hindoo History. — The Per- 
 siiins. — The (ireeks. — The Araiis. — Siiltuii Miilimoiiil. — Tiie Moiifrdls w Mof;uls. — 
 Fdumlation of Deliii. — Suecessive ('lian^;eH of .Site. — The Kootiil> Miliar. — A Singti- 
 lar Iron Siiaft. — The Moj^iil Touih.^. — The Tomb of Jchanara. — The Junina Musjid. — 
 Tiie Imperial Palace. — Farewell to Delhi. 
 
 Ludlow Castle^ Delh), March 2Cifh. — In cro-ssing the Jumna, 
 tlic oitiulel of Delhi seems to be direetly over the terminus of the 
 railroiul-bridge, and gives a fine etfcct to the approach. As first 
 seen, Dellii i.s a vivid contrast to A<^vi\. Akbar wedded Agra, ai\d 
 died — like the Hindoo widow, she has faithfidly mourned him in 
 decline and poverty ever since. Delhi, until recently the capital 
 of the Mogul dynasty, and since an important seat of British rule, 
 is a fickle jade, who easily transferred her allegiance. AVe entered 
 bvtlie Cashmere gate, and, driving over a broad plain, in which fine 
 European buildings alternate with highly-cultivated gardens, we 
 reached Ludlow Castle, where we are the guests of the civil com- 
 missioner of the district. Colonel Young. 
 
 The outside world derived its earliest knowledije of India from 
 its neighbors, the Persians, who maintained a vigorous commerce 
 with Greece in the time of Darius. They gave to the country its 
 nunc of Ilindostan, the land of the black men. There still remain 
 in the Andaman Islands, and some other parts of India, tribes of 
 savages, who are supposed to be derived from an aborigir i race 
 which possessed the cuunt"y before the Hindoos. Howe th:it 
 
 ^l 
 
• I « 
 
 «.l . 
 
 • -» 
 
 l«. 
 
 I Hi' 
 
 Ill J* 
 
 i II » * 
 
 '"Ml 
 
 fact mi 
 cuiintr 
 lliiiiiili 
 
 dividuc 
 liowevc 
 China 
 
 Thr 
 tended 
 daspes ( 
 the tarn 
 doiibtlei 
 I by the : 
 cessors 
 Ilindost 
 attempts 
 favored, 
 prop!i<i^ai 
 the (ivei 
 and I'ulii 
 invader 
 order fi 
 fornior 
 715 A. 1) 
 qiiered S 
 vears. 
 cient (iiit 
 qnonce 
 hito till 
 •iiieriii^r 1 
 
 at Dollii, 
 These j»a 
 a b()hh;r 
 the c.init 
 estahhVhc 
 ain in t':i 
 
 n 
 
HINDOO HISTORY. 
 
 443 
 
 m 
 
 
 ■"**■■ 
 
 ^,^e%WiJ« 
 
 ^.v- 
 
 fact may be, the earliest history of Iliiidostan represents the entire 
 country from the ludns to the border of Ijurnuih, and from the 
 Himalayas to Ca[)e Comorin, as inhabited by one peojtle, pro- 
 t'e&siiii? the Uramin faith, althon<i;h they miist have been then 
 divided into distinct tribes, having dilierent dialects. It was, 
 however, an isolated and unsocial nation, snch as Japan and 
 China since have been. 
 
 Three hundred years before the Chris^tian era, Alexander ex- 
 tended his concpiest across the Indus and to the banks of the Ily- 
 (laspes (the Sutlej) with the purpose of bringing isolated India into 
 the fannly of Mediterranean nations. This great enterprise might 
 doubtless have been achieved at that time, had it not been defeated 
 by the refusal of the Macedonian army to go farther. His suc- 
 cessors quickly lost the ground he had gained. The history of 
 Ilindostan, since that period, is the story only of. repetitions of 
 attempts, like that of Alexander, for the con(piest T)f the country, 
 favored, like his, by a slow process of internul disintegration. The 
 propagandism of Buddha, which occurred soon after the failure of 
 the (Ireek concpiest, convulsed the country, and, arraying its tribes 
 and religious sects against each other, opened the way to a new 
 invader. Mohammed was a religious refcu-mev of a very dillcrcnt 
 order from IJuddlia. The latter pr<>))agated by ]ireaching, the 
 former by the sword. In the reign (»f the Caliph AValid, about 
 715 A.I)., the Arabs mvaded Ilindostan from the sea, and con- 
 quered Scinde and ])art of the Punjab, which they held for some 
 Years. Ihit the Hindoos, rallying under the banner of their an- 
 cient faith, expelled the Mussulman, though only ^ith the conse- 
 iiuencc of provoking new invasions. Sultan Mahmond advanced 
 into the Punjab, in the eleventh century ; and his sxiccessors, eon- 
 (juering the whole of Northern India, and establishing their cajiital 
 at Delhi, extended their sway across the Jumna and the (langes. 
 These ]>artial Mohammedan eompierors in the north encouraged 
 a bolder leader of the same faith. In i;)08, Tamerlane invaded 
 the country, seized Delhi, and, with a war of terrific barbarity, 
 esitablished that great IMongol or Mogul Empire which (ireat Jlrit- 
 ain in fact su})pressed in 1S03, but of which she ])ermitted a 
 
 
 1' 
 
444 
 
 BKITISII INDIA. 
 
 shadow to stand until 18."»7. "With the exception of Akbar's resi- 
 dence at Agra, Delhi was the capital of the Mogul Eni])ire until it^ 
 dissolution. With successive changes of dynasty, the city has from 
 time to time changed its place from one part of the plain to anotliei'. 
 So it has happened that the Delhi of to-day is the last one of a 
 dozen cities wiiich have successively borne the same name, and 
 enjoyed the honors of a capital. This modern Delhi dates from the 
 time of Ilumayoon, the father of Akbar. 
 
 I- 
 
 • -. 
 
 m 
 
 * ■• « 
 ■ ! a 
 « -I • 
 
 f1 
 
 1 
 
 ' 1*1 
 
 Delhi, March 2Sth. — We drove yesterday eleven milos across 
 the plain, seeing on all sides the palaces, mosques, and toml).s, .some 
 still erect though abandoned, others in dilapidation, others mere 
 dcbrin, which nuirk the sites of the several capitals which have 
 passed away. Among these relics, stands the Kootub Minar. It 
 may, as claimed here, or may not be, the highest pillar in the world. 
 Wo tirst saw it at a distance of seven miles, under a dim twilii,dif, 
 which, like moonlight, may have had the etiect of increasing jt.s 
 apparent elevation. Approaching nearer, we found the column ;i 
 circular fluted one of red sandstone, two hundred and thirtv-eiirlit 
 feet high, forty-seven feet in diameter at the base, and divided into 
 five stages or stories, the base of each stor^ ornamented with a 
 projc'ting gallery and balustrade. The hei^ .ts of the .'successive 
 stories are graduated in exact proportion to the contracting diam- 
 eter of the column, the height of the lower story being ninety- 
 four feet, while that of the upper is only twenty-two feet. As wo 
 looked up beneath tlii.s towering monumi'nt, standing so erect ;ni(I 
 alone in the broad iield of desolation, it seemed to us that, like 
 Memnon on the Nile, it might have a voice, and so might t<ll us 
 a long history of heroic achievements, nuignificent designs, and 
 bitter disajipointmeuts, of which it has been a witness. 
 
 The Jhf/c is a government institution for the transportation of 
 passengers and property. It consists of carts drawn either by 
 horses or oxen, with changes every four miles. At each station i< 
 the "dak bungalow," in wlii(di the traveller, who carries his own 
 ]trovisions and bed, nniy take rest and refreshment. A ]M'('tty 
 Hindoo tem])le, which st.uids under the shadow of the Kootuh. hi 
 
THE KOOTUB MINAR. 
 
 445 
 
 f Akbar's resi- 
 ^inpire wntil its 
 ,e city lias IVoiu 
 lain to anotliev. 
 e last one of a 
 line name, mid 
 li dates truin the 
 
 en miles across 
 and tombs, some 
 ion, others ineve 
 itals wliirli liuve 
 )otnb Miliar. It 
 illiir in the world. 
 f a dim twiliulit, 
 of increasinij its 
 ind the column :i 
 and thirty-ci^ht 
 and divided into 
 naniented witli ii 
 of the siicccssivp 
 ontractinj; <li:iin- 
 ->ry being ninety- 
 two feet. As we 
 ding 80 crei-t and 
 to ns that, like 
 .M. might ttdl'b 
 ■ent designs, anl 
 
 ness. 
 traiipportation ct 
 
 drawn either by 
 At ea(di station i< 
 o carries hi-^ <'^^''> 
 nnent. A vnM}- 
 ,f the Kootuh. ha^ 
 
 been restored from a state of dilapidation, and appropriated to that 
 use. It served lis pleasantly for our evening repast, and gave ns 
 airy lodgings for the night. Tiiis morning, we looked from its 
 veranda njjon the great, dark column, as it received and rellccted 
 
 THE KOOTPB MINAH. 
 
 the rays of the rising sun. In this illuminati(m, which left the base 
 in deep shadow, the monument seemed even more perfect and 
 loftier than it did on the night before. A closer observation, while 
 it showed some new points of beauty, revealed also some lefects. 
 Tlic Muting of the cohiinn dillors at the several stories. In the 
 first story the fluting iK ciivniar, in the second angidar, in the third 
 the 'irclo and the angle alternate ; the fourth story is of white 
 inarl)le, encircled at tlie middle with a belt of brown sandstimc ; tho 
 
4iQ 
 
 BlilTISII INDIA. 
 
 «r 
 
 «. 
 
 
 f» 
 
 
 *. 
 
 
 1 
 
 « 
 
 1 
 
 ■1 
 
 » 
 
 '1 
 
 1.. 
 
 1 
 
 
 « 
 
 
 « 
 
 
 1 
 
 till! 
 
 lit'th story is of unmixed M'liito ii'irblo. Ur Jcrncath liie ma<^iiiri- 
 cent sculi)tured cornit'o wliK:ii .-Miiipi. ts tl:o ^irallory of each sto/v. 
 the cohinin is boldly curved jn Arabii, In t -xts from the Koran, ai,(l 
 in part recitals of repairs and improvements made by ditl'ercut 
 monarchs. A circular iron staircase conducts to the summit, where 
 the visitor takes in at one view the Jumna, the Delhi of our time, 
 and all the ruined Dclhis for miles and miles around. IFiJW lariro 
 must be the number of those who have t'-odden that lofty, splrjil 
 staircase, and how diverse mi]st have been their reading of the 
 lessons which that giddy height atlbrds ! The recitals mentioned, 
 as translated by General Cunningham, give us only this infonua- 
 ''on : that the erection of the column was the work of several cen- 
 turies ; that it was finished in 1230, one hundred and sixty years 
 before Tamerlane, and in the reign of Shumsh-oodeen-Aitumsli. 
 We are i)rofoundly grateful for this information, but it would have 
 saved a world of conjecture and reseirch if the writers of those in- 
 scriptions had told us who designed -nid began the structure, ami 
 for what object. "Was it built as it now stands alone, or was it iui 
 appurtenance to some temple, or jxilace, or moscpie which has loti:: 
 since min..i 1 with the earth i Was it, like the Tower of Babel, de- 
 signed as a stairway to the lieavens, or was it to be an observatory 
 from which to njt'.isure the magnitude and the movements of the 
 stars'^ Is it a triumphal column, or is it a tomb'^ Parts of it have 
 been bl;; ' h1 by the storm, and even deranged by the liglituini,' 
 and the 'Mfaquake. Nevertheless, it stands firmly, and may en- 
 dure for many thousand years. Distant one or two hundred feet 
 from the column are the dilapidated gates and walls of a spacious 
 mo8(pie. Some imagine the Ivootub Minar an a<1junct of thiit 
 mosque; others controvert this pof*ition, while they maintain tlmt 
 the structure for which the Kootub was designed to be an oriui- 
 nient, though projected, was never built. 
 
 There is a relic, not far from the Kootub Minar, of even greater 
 flnti([uity, and more mysterious. It is a cylindrical iron shaft, six- 
 teen inches thick, .estimated by General Gunninghanj to bo sixty 
 feet long, and to weigh seventeen tons, Kxcavatiotis, to the deiitli 
 of twenty-six feet, have failed to fin<l its lower end, while its top is 
 
THE TOMB OF IIUMAYOOX. 
 
 447 
 
 twenty-two feet above the surt:".' j. Tuuri.is earmot, aaHoly -is*', nic 
 to be arehaulogL- :s. The accomplished truveller i3ayard Taylor 
 says he learued at Delhi that ;iu inscription on the shaft ast'ign • 
 it ;i date one centnry before the Christian era. If our guid ■? 
 translated coirectly the same inscrii)tioii for us, it was erected a. ■. 
 oVX The surroundings of this monument arc ])erple.\ing; ^i 
 stands in the very centre of an innnense dihipidatcd but not demol- 
 jsiied Mohammedan caravanserai, pahice, or mosque. The Sara- 
 cenic arches of this ruin indicate, beyond all mistake, its Moham- 
 medan character; but, here comes the difficulty: all these fine 
 Moorish arches rest on rudely-wrought, monolith granite columns, 
 which are covered with carvings, and vines, and images of idols, 
 and saints. Beyond a doubt these rough cohimns were raised in 
 honor of the thirty-three thousand gods of the Hindoos. We rec- 
 01,'nized, as we thought, not only those of the Braminical faith, but 
 also some belonging to the reformed creed of Buddha. But we could 
 not be certain ot this, for the Mussuhnan iconoclast has treated 
 them all as eciually oli'ending against the second connuand of Moses, 
 He has battered and defaced them so eti'ectually that they are no 
 loniror like unto " any thing that is in heaven above, or that is iu 
 tlie ciH'th beneath, or that is in tho water under the earth." Take 
 into titusidcration, now, that the cross of St. (ieorgc w,<ves over 
 these ruins, and we have a grouping, in a circumscribed nvcp of th^. 
 moiunnents of Braminical worshij), Buddhist worship, M Lammc- 
 dan worshij^, and (christian worship; the sjveral religloii succeed- 
 inu eaeh other as coiKpierors, and all within the perio 1 'jf two 
 thonsaud years. AVe drove, next, t<» a cemetery, which is conpar- 
 atively modern ; alighting hero, we walked through several nr.rrow 
 Slides bordered by so many costly and beautiful marble cenotaphs 
 that oven the graveyard of Mogul monarchs l>ecame lU rnonotouous, 
 ami the eulogistic Arabic inscriptions on them as tedi'<n=^, as the 
 "Collection of Anierican Epitaphs and Inscriptions, with Occasional 
 Xotcs. by the Rev. Timothy Alden, A. M., in two vols., New York, 
 i^U.'' The tomb of Ilunuiyoon, however, deserves "special men- 
 tion," not nu)ro on account of the great merit of that monarch than 
 the magnilicence of the monument. The tactions rivairv of Ilu- 
 
 1« 
 
 ■A:'y._:^yM*(>- 
 
448 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 
 « 
 
 tm 
 t* 
 
 lie 
 
 # 
 'I 
 « 
 
 > « 
 
 < « 
 
 '■( 
 
 I* 
 
 mayooii's brothers invited an invasion from Afijlianistan, in which 
 the Mogul emperor wa.- completely overthrown and llumayoon diiv. 
 en into exile. Flndiiiij an asylum in Persia, he formed an alliance 
 with the kiniij ot that country, who furnished Ilumuyoon an arniv 
 with which he returned to Hindustan, resumed the throne ot jiis 
 ancestors, and transmitted it to his son, the great Akbar. II there 
 were no Taj, nor tomb of Akbar, the mausoleum of llumayoon 
 might perhaps be as much admired as those monuments are. It sur- 
 passes each of them as well in vastness as in nuissiveness. Its white 
 marble dome, resting on arcades of red sandstone, making a marked 
 feature in the ])lain, is peculiarly beautiful. Wo turned our steps 
 from the proud nuiusoleuni to a tomb more rare, and of a verv 
 dili'erent design. Aurungzebc, whose name is rendered infaiiiou.s 
 by his cruelty, was a son of Shah Jehan. He seized his father's 
 throne, usurped his kingdom, imprisoned him, and, as some histori- 
 ans Avrite, deprived him of his eyes. II is sister, Jehanara, refusing.' 
 to enter the imperial cour^" of the usurper, remained M'ith her uut'or- 
 tunate father until liis death. A monument, simple and bcautitul 
 as her own character, covers her renuiins. The inscriptidu wliicli 
 it bears h said to have been written by lierself. AVe hrll^l:L'(l 
 away freshly-cut tiowers to look upon it, all the time wonderiiii: 
 who placed them there. These are the M'ords wiiich mo read in 
 Arabic: "Let no rich, canopy rise over my grave; the grass is tlic 
 best covering for the ])oor in spirit, the huml)lc, the epheiiienil 
 Jehanara, the disci[>1e of the holy men of Cheest, the daugliternt 
 the Emperor Shah Jehan." We derived from this touching inciiid- 
 rial an assurance that ages of superstition, bigotry, and fanatieisin, 
 cannot altogether extinguish W(»manly virtue, or the admiration ot' 
 mankind for it. 
 
 il 
 
 IM « 
 
 Jla/'ch 2'^f/). — Our sight-seeing, in India, is necessarily done in 
 the early morning (ir in tho evening; when the sun i-^ vcrv I(i\i in 
 the horizon. Our record of it is made in the time which can ln' 
 snatched from society cu' necessary rest. 
 
 The Jumna Musjid derives imposing effect from its situation in 
 the centre of an oblong area, on a rocky terrace, which extends 
 
THE IMPERIAL TALAOE. 
 
 449 
 
 from tliG Cashmere gate to the Delhi gate, and is approached by 
 niairiiificent stone staircases on three sides — a site not unlike that 
 of the Capitol at Washington. The Jumna Musjid is a mosque, 
 two hundred feet by one hundred and twenty feet, surmounted by 
 three elegant marble cupolas with gilded spires. At each end is a 
 siijicrb minaret, built in alternate lines of black and Avhite marble. 
 The pavement of the mosque is of white-marble slabs, each forty- 
 two inches by eighteen inches, finished with an inlaid black-marble 
 border. Each slab is a kneeling-place for a worshipper. Like the 
 mosfjue in the citadel of Agra, the edifice is called the " Pearl of 
 MuS(jues.'" We do not attempt to compare the two. Either is 
 more beautiful than any religious edifice we have ever seen. The 
 Jumna Musjid is, however, the more highly revered of the two. 
 Its venerable custodian showed us relics of the greatest possible 
 sanctity. Among them are a pair of shoes which were M'orn by the 
 prophet, and one hair saved from his beard ! Both of these inesti- 
 mable treasures are carefully preserved in antique glass cases. We 
 cannot undertake to vouch for the genuineness of that hair, but we 
 iimst confess that the shrivelled and rotten leather makes out a 
 strong claim for the genuineness of the shoes. 
 
 There is, however, a relic, the authenticity of which can hardly 
 be (lis})uted. It is a devotional autograjih numuscript of Fatima, 
 the faithful and favorite daughter of Mohanuned, 
 
 The first accounts of the mutiny of '.")T that went abroad attrib- 
 uted it to a discontent on the part of the Hindoos. From inquiries 
 liere, we have no doubt that it was an insurrectionary attempt of 
 the Mohannnedans. Ever since its suppression. Government has 
 forbidden public worship in the Jumna Musjid. 
 
 Here, as at Agra, the Imperial Palace is within the wrlls of the 
 (itndel. It is in complete preservation, ai>d is an additional monu- 
 ment of the exquisite taste and munificence of Shah JeluiU, the 
 hnilder of the Taj. Its prominent ])arts are one greater aiul one 
 lesser "audience-hall." Each of these is of ]H>lished white mar- 
 hie, entirely open in front, and placed at such a height as to 
 ati'ord the emperor, sitting on the throne, iiot merely a view of 
 the surrounding audience, but also a view of the procession of his 
 
 
450 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 r 
 
 •■B 
 
 
 
 vassals as tlioy entered the ijreat palace-gates, with all tlieir gorye- 
 0U8 displays of music, soldiers, camels, and elephants. A p()li^^lu.(l 
 wliite-marble throne, in each audience-chamber, is raised on a diiis, 
 six or seven feet high, of the same material. A ]nire white-marble 
 canopy, sn])ported by delicate Saracenic ])illars, lends this strncturo 
 a peculiar grace. Both of these halls have been despoiled (if tlio 
 decorations which first aroused the attention of Europe to the mar- 
 vellous splendor of the Mogul Enij)ire. The solid silver ])latos o^ 
 the great audience-chamber have been stripped from the ceilinfr^ 
 and sold in the market in London for one hundred and sevcntv 
 thousand pounds sterling. The lesser chand)er has been robl)cd of 
 the famous " peacock-throne," in the construction of which Sliali 
 Jehan expended .nx million jmunds sterling. Tlie frescos of birds 
 and flowers on the polished marble walls arc now dim — certainly 
 they must always have been a blemish. If, however, white niarlile 
 and fresco are incongruous, it must be admitted that white niaHile 
 and yellow gold, arranged in just proportions, form the most ctl'ce- 
 tive of all ornamental cond)inations. Such is the fretwork wliicli 
 adorns the capitals, cornices, and flutings of the columns and pilas- 
 ters. The architect of the palace seems to have been enamoured 
 of his own creation, for he wrote, on each angle of the lesser midi- 
 ence-chamber, the words which ]\Ioore has made familiar to all the 
 world in " Lalla Kookh : " 
 
 II. -. 
 
 "If there ho an Elysuim on earth, 
 It is this, it is this." 
 
 Let us drop mathematical lines and arithmetical mensiirc- 
 ments, and try to convey in another way an idea of the ]>alace of 
 Shah Jehan. C^an any one conceive a nobler spectacle tliaii an 
 inauguration of a President of the United States, under the eastorn 
 portico of the Capitol ? Does any one know an^^ thing in tlic 
 world more shabby than the broad staging of plank and scantling 
 on which the august ceremony is performed ? The silver cciliiii; 
 and the " peacock-throne " have been removed from the tlirone- 
 room at Delhi. We would rub off now the gilding and the fres- 
 cos on the walls. Having thus reduced the magnificent room to 
 
ENGLISH KINDNESS. 
 
 451 
 
 ill their fjorifc- 
 
 :s. A polislicd 
 
 aised on ;i dais, 
 
 •e whitc-marblo 
 
 Ifj this structure 
 
 Icspoik'd of the 
 
 ope to the inar- 
 
 silver ]iliitos (•♦' 
 
 GUI the ceiiiui,', 
 
 ed and seventy 
 
 been roh1)ed of 
 
 of wliic'h Shah 
 
 i frescos of ))ir(.ls 
 
 I dim — certainly 
 er, white niarhlc 
 lat white inarhle 
 
 II the most eti'cp- 
 B fretwork which 
 )himns and pilas- 
 been enaniourod 
 
 the lesser f.ii(h- 
 auiiliar to all the 
 
 nctical mofisnro- 
 of the palace of 
 lectaclc than an 
 iiider the eastern 
 \\\ thinu' in the 
 nk and scantling 
 'he silver ceiling 
 from the throne- 
 iiipr and the fres- 
 rrniiicent room to 
 
 Wi. original simplicity, we would commend it to the Couirress of the 
 United States as a model stage for the inauguration-ceremony. 
 Bayard Taylor, more fortunate than we, saw the Mogul jialace 
 ^vhiie it yet was the residence of the last of the 8uccess(»r8 (»f Akhar. 
 The mutineers of '57, inflated with their flrst success, proclaimed 
 the restoration of the empire. That stipendiary yielded t«. and)i- 
 tious persuasion, lie was quickly overthrown, stripped of allow- 
 inu'cs, state, and possessions; and M-e find that his heirs, loyal to 
 the Ih-itish (Tovernment, are now content with the honor of show- 
 In/ us, as guides, the splendor of the halls and tombs of their 
 ancestors. 
 
 Delhi shares with Lahore the commerce of the western and 
 iiortliern provinces, Afghanistan, Cashmere, and Persia. It seems 
 likely therefore to remain, as it is, a great and populous city. The 
 streets are often rendered impassable by heterogene(ms caravans. 
 The shops contain fobrics, tissues, and jewelry, of excpiisite richness, 
 iind adapted to every variety of Oriental taste. 
 
 Our study of Delhi closed, to-day, with a \\i\i to the heights to 
 which the British army retired, when driven out of the jalace of 
 Shah Jehan, on the breaking out of the mutiny. They remained 
 here six months, successfully resisting the surjirises and sorties of 
 the insurgents in the city — twenty times their nmnber. At last, 
 heing reenforced, they became assailants, stormed the citadel, and 
 reecivered the capital. 
 
 Here we leave our liost, and the learned companion of our ex- 
 plorations, Colonel Young. American travellers are ^^i to ima- 
 gine that Englishmen whom they meet are cold, if not churlish. 
 Nothing could be farther from this than our expei'iencc in India, 
 and, in looking back through all that experience, nvc find no more 
 agroeahle remembrance than that of "Ludlow Casth','' and of the 
 hearty welcome and courteous hospitality wc received there. 
 
 .1. 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 |. 
 
 ■* , 
 
 1 
 
 %. 
 
 1» 
 
 I"* 
 
 UMBALLA AND PUTTEE A LA. 
 
 Mccrut, tlie Scene of the Outbreak of the Oreat Mutiny. — Hindoo Pilf^rims. — Firv^ Viow 
 of the lliiniilayas. — Invitations to ruttceala. — Journey tiiithcr. — The City ol I'lu 
 teealu. — Coaelies ov Elephants? — Entrance mto i'uttcoahi. — A Magiiiticent IVoas 
 sion. — Our Palace. 
 
 Vmbnlla., March o(Hh. — Leavinoj Dellii, yesterday mornino:, we 
 recrosseil the Jumna and its valley by a bridijc and lono^ caiiscwav 
 to the station of (razeabad. Theneo we made our way throiii;h a 
 sea of golden wheat-tields. dotted with islands of blooming nii . i^o- 
 trees — one hundred and tifty miles — to this place. We stopped at 
 Meerut, a garrison-town, made memorable by being the scene of the 
 outbreak of the mutiny. That great disaster left Jit Meerut no siicli 
 painful traces or touching monuments as are seen at Cawniiore, 
 Lucknow, and Delhi. 
 
 The common roads parallel with the railroad, for a distance of 
 twenty miles above ]\Ieerut, were thronged with travellers, cliicdv 
 men and children, of all castes and classes — save only the poor ])ari- 
 alls, each troop attended by musicians, their costumes diverse in 
 form and color. The greater number M'erc i)edestrian8, but others 
 rode the native ponies, donkeys, camels, and elephants. A few 
 showed a special pride as they came along in gayly-decorated carts 
 drawn by clean white oxen decked with ribbons and garliunl!;, 
 The long processions which J)iiblin sent out to Donnybrook on 
 the days of its fair; the multitude which throngs the road from 
 
INVITATIONS TO PUTTEEALA. 
 
 453 
 
 Pilr^rima.— Fivi-t View 
 e,.,_Tlie City ol I'm 
 A Magniticeui I'lOcts 
 
 (lay mornin,!:, we 
 1(1 lonji; causeway 
 \v way thvouL'li ;i 
 blooniinj; m: . fi)- 
 We stuppiMl at 
 (r tho sconLM)t'the 
 »t Mccrut no such 
 cii at Cawniiorc, 
 
 for a distance of 
 traveller;^, chictiy 
 |,nly the poor ]»avi- 
 Istunics diverse in 
 Istrians, but others 
 ^.Icplianta. A tew 
 rly-decorated cart^ 
 [,n8 and }j;arlamU, 
 Donnybrook on 
 .'S the road from 
 
 London to Epsom on tho " Derby-day ; " the processions whicii 
 come with nuisic and banners from New-England villages to a 
 ••niass-mecting; " or the 4tli of July in Doston, never exhibited 
 more eager excitement, or half so much method, or a tithe of tho 
 rrood-nature, which these Hindoos showed as they trudged along, 
 •oniing from all parts of llindostan, to attend a Braminical festival 
 at Iliirdwar, which is to be improved by being used also us a great 
 liorsc-fair. 
 
 At four o'clock in the afternoon, we obtained a first view of the 
 Himalaya Mountains, stretching in a long, blue, hazy outline in tho 
 liorizon, sixty miles distant. Major Tigh. commissioner for tho 
 district, met us at the station, and brought us to his line old bun- 
 ipilow, situated in a beautiful park. An Irishman, ho retains 
 equally the warm-heartedness and the naivete of his countrymen. 
 
 Pidtecala, March 31,9^. — Immediately after our arrival at 
 rmbnlla, a native gentleman presented himself to Major Tigh, and, 
 luuiouucing himself as "canal agent" for the Maharajah of Put- 
 tceala, asked to be presented to Mr. Seward, Before the latter had 
 time to answer, a second native appeared, and, declaring himself to 
 be the maharajah's "Minister of Justice," asked to be introduced. 
 They were admitted, and each presented a letter of invitation from 
 tlic Maharajih of Putteeala tendering us the hospitalities of his 
 ?t;ito, elegantly written in Arabic on gilt paper, the envelop being 
 a bag of the finest kincob. The bag, as well as the notes, was per- 
 lumcd with attar of roses. The bag was tied with a silken cord, on 
 which was suspended the great waxen seal (weighing four ounces) 
 I of the kingdom, principality, or state, of Putteeala. Yesterday, at 
 j five o'clock p. M., we proceeded in four carriages, each drawn by 
 four horses, which the prince had sent to convey us to his capital. 
 hVe were attended by his two messengers, the mufitced (canal- 
 lagcnt) and the minister of justice, a large military escort, and many 
 jscrvants. Captain Ilorsford, of the British civil service, accom- 
 ipnuicd us. At stages of one mile each, mounted sentinels first 
 |Ealntcd us, and then joined our escort. The maharajah's liigh civil 
 Dt&cers wore the finest of white India musliu turbans and robes, 
 
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 and his soldiers were arrayed in green, gold, and scarlet, as brightly 
 as the birds of India. 
 
 The Emperor Akbar and his successors made excellent roads 
 and at convenient stages built caravanserais for the security and 
 rest of travellers. These hostelries, each of which is a fortification, 
 are still well preserved. We stopped at the half-way caravanserai, 
 and were met tliere by a large deputation of the maharajah's house- 
 hold, in dainty costumes, similar to those worn by his messengers. 
 These deputies, surrounded by sixty or seventy servants, tendered 
 us congratulations, in the name of his highness, on our safe arrival 
 thus far on our j.urney. Each individual member of these delega- 
 tions presented to each one of us, on a massive silver salver, cov- 
 ered with a white napkin, a half-dozen silver coins, and a fresh 
 bouquet. As instructed, we touched these coins as acknowledg- 
 ment of mutual friendship, and retained the flowers. This cere- 
 mony was followed by a profuse supply of delicate refreshments. 
 In the midst of these attentions, a telegram from Puttceala an- 
 nounced that the British Ministers of Finance and Foreign Aii'airs 
 for the district of Punjab were just leaving the town, and would 
 desire to pay their respects to Mr. Seward when they should meet 
 him. When we had gone a few miles on our way, those distin- 
 guished personages, with their families, came rolling along in four 
 four-horse carriages, and an escort — both the equipages and guard 
 having been furnished by the maharajili, and being exactly on the 
 same magnificent scale as those by which we were conducted, 
 Greetings were exchanged, and a cordial invitation- was given to 
 Mr. Seward to extend his journey to Lahore, the capital of the 
 Punjab. 
 
 Putteeala, the capital of the province or native principality of 
 the same name, is protected by a citadel as spacious, though not so 
 substantially or scientifically constructed, rj Fort Hamilton. Forti- 
 fications in India see'^ii . o have been built as retreats or places of 
 safety for the sovereign or his family. The mother of the present! 
 prince resides in the citadel of Putteeala. Arriving at its gate, we| 
 came to a halt, and we saw through a cloud of dust the niahamj.'iii 
 coming toward us in a magnificent state coach drawn by six white | 
 
ELEPIIANT-RIDING. 
 
 455 
 
 irlet, as brightly 
 
 excellent roads, 
 
 lie security and 
 
 is a fortification, 
 
 vay caravanserai, 
 
 abarajah's liouse- 
 
 y bis messengers. 
 
 ervants, tendered 
 
 n our safe arrival 
 
 jr of these delega- 
 
 silver salver, cov- 
 
 coins, and a fresh 
 
 is as achnowledg. 
 
 jwers. This cere- 
 
 icate refresbments. 
 
 mm Puttceala an- 
 
 nd Foreign Ailairs 
 
 e town, and would 
 
 a. they should meet 
 
 way, those distin- 
 
 )lling along in four 
 
 luipagcs and gnard 
 
 )eing exactly on tlie 
 
 re were conducted, 
 
 ;ation- was given to 
 
 the capital ot tk 
 
 ative principality of 
 cious, though not ='^ 
 •t Hamilton. Forti- 
 •etreats or places of 
 lotber of the present I 
 riving at its gate, ^ve I 
 dust the mahavaja! 
 1 drawn by six ^1">1 
 
 horses ; the highway, on either side, was lined with outriders and 
 a squadron of cavalry. The prince, driving by the side of our 
 carriage, saluted Mr. Seward with stately cordiality. When the 
 compliments were ended, the maharajah asked Mr. Seward in 
 which manner he would prefer to make his entrance into the capi- 
 tal ; whether he would go with him in his coach, or whether he 
 would be pleased to m.ake his entrance on the back of an elephant. 
 Mr. Seward, diffident perhaps of his skill in the latter mode of 
 travel, or acting under a conviction that modesty best becomes a 
 visitor, accepted the oiFer of a seat in the coach. The maharajah, 
 taking his seat at Mr. Seward's left, made a rapid advance toward 
 the city. The ladies, like Mr. Seward, being complimented with 
 the same choice of manner of entering the city, decided like Mr. 
 Seward in favor of a comfortable coach-and-six. Hereupon a halt 
 and parley ensued between Captain Horsford and the prince's 
 master of ceremonies. In the course of this debate, it appeared 
 that, while the prince excused Mr. Seward's declination ot the 
 honor of the elephant on the ground of his years, the ladies, who 
 could offer no such plea, would give offence by claiming the same 
 indulgence. Sixty elephants stood by the road-side, richly capari- 
 soned in cloth of gold and scarlet, all ornamented with gilt ear- 
 rings and necklaces. There was no more to be said on that ques- 
 tion. The elephants kneeled, silver ladders were placed against 
 their sides, and, in less time- than it takes to describe the action, 
 the two ladies, not venturing to ride alone, were seated together 
 with Captain Horsford in the spacious gilded and velvet howdah. 
 The elephant arose with a motion like that of the surge on the 
 const of Madras, and the ladies found themselves in the upper air. 
 The Hindoo driver sits on the elephant's head, and directs his 
 motions by the use of an iron spike, which he thrusts against the 
 skin on either side of the forehead. A procession was then 
 formed. First, the maharajah with Mr. Seward ; then the ladies ; 
 next, our three servants, Jcanie, Price, and Freeman ; next, the 
 musteed ; next, the Minister of Justice, mounted in the same 
 manner, and behind them the long train of elephants without 
 any riders, and the five hundred richly-caparisoned horses, led 
 
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456 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
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 by as many grooms no less gayly dressed. As a signal for the 
 progress to begin, the air was rent by a salvo of nineteen guns; 
 the salute was repeated by a fusillade from what seemed endless 
 ranki of infantry, bugles sounded a march, and the cavalry 
 moved to the front. Four bands of music wheeled into column 
 playing, more or less together, " God save the Queen ! " Eeliind 
 them a company of fifty bagpipers, playing not altogethci, as 
 they fell into line, "Bonnie Dundee." At the moment of the 
 cannonade the led horses kicked, pranced, and reared; the ele- 
 phants uttered piteous, deep, indescribable cries, and tried to 
 prick up their enormous jewelled ears, remaining otherwise quiet ; 
 crowds on the wayside shouted applause, and children screamed 
 with delight. As for Mr. Seward, he, fortunate gentleman, snugly 
 seated by the maharajah on velvet cushions, in the coach drawn 
 by six well-trained animals, was unconscious of the disturbance 
 which had arisen behind him. His inexperienced and more ven- 
 turesome companions clung to each other in fright— but order 
 was restored, and all were reassured. On the way to his capi- 
 tal, the maharajah addressed to Mr. Seward a studied speech 
 of welcome. Taking care to express his regret that his guest had 
 not accepted the elephant, the prince said that the troops wc had 
 passed in review were ten thousand in number. He also explained 
 to Mr. Seward that, when he came to the throne, he found no 
 streets in Puttceala wide enough for such a pageant as he had occa- 
 sion to make, and that he had, therefore, enlarged the streets, but 
 not without making due compensation to the owners of adjacent 
 property. Night came on as we reached the gates. We looked 
 from our howdahs upon the flat roots of the dwellings and shops he- 
 low us. Their inmates were gathered at the doors in gay drosses, 
 and seemed as diminutive as the burghers of Liliput. Thus wc 
 passed through the entire city, and reached, beyond the firtlier 
 gate, an esplanade used as a Campus Martius. Winding around 
 a tall flag-str*ff, under the folds of what is called the sacred banner, 
 we stopped before a lofty Saracenic gate. Here, the maharajali, 
 with Mr. Seward, alighted, and the elephant-riders dismounted. 
 The prince led the way on a gravelled walk, by the side of sue- 
 
signal for the 
 nineteen guns; 
 seemed endless 
 id the cavalry 
 3d into column, 
 een ! " Behind 
 t altogetbci, as 
 moment of the 
 reared; the cle- 
 s, and tried to 
 otherwise quiet ; 
 lildren screamed 
 entleman, snugly 
 the coach drawn 
 the disturbance 
 d and more ven- 
 ■right— but order 
 way to his capi- 
 1 studied speech 
 hut his guest had 
 he troops we had 
 He also explained 
 me, he found no 
 nt as he had occa- 
 d the streets, but 
 wners of adjacent 
 atcs. AVe looked 
 ings and shops he- 
 jrs in gay dresses, 
 .iliput. Thus ^vc 
 eyond the farther 
 Winding around 
 the sacred banner, 
 ■e, the mabarajali, 
 ■iders dismounted, 
 the side of sue- 
 
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 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
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 cessive fountains, in an orange and lemon garden, as it seemed, of 
 boundless extent. Each fountain poured over a cascade into tho 
 next. These cascades were illumined by torch-lights from behind, 
 which imparted to the jets all the hues of the rainbow. We 
 stopped at the porch of a small Saracenic palace. The prince, 
 taking Mr. Seward by the hand, led him up -x gentle flight of steps, 
 across a veranda, into a salon which may be eighty by forty feet, 
 and thirty feet high, the ceiling supported by a double row of col- 
 umns, and the walls draped with orange and scarlet silks. " Tliis 
 palace," said the maharajah, " is yours ; this is the hall in which 
 you will sit, these apartments on either side of it are the rooms in 
 which you will sleep. You must be weary with your journey. I 
 beg to take my leave for the night. I shall have the honor to visit 
 you to-morrow morning." 
 
 The ladies were not slow in exploring the cosy little palace. 
 Its lights, furniture, and ornamentation, are an Oriental exaggera- 
 tion of the European style. The welcome dinner, though prepared 
 by a French hand, and graced with the best wines of France, Ger- 
 many, and Portugal, was served by Hindoos, who, dressed in low- 
 ing white gowns, glided noiselessly in bare feet over the velvet 
 carpet. It was evident, as he himself said, that the Prince of Put- 
 tecala is not like those "people" whom we see in Calcutta. As 
 for the ladies, they expressed a doubt whether the story of Aladdin 
 is indeed a fiction. 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 PUTTEE ALA {Continued). 
 
 Oriental Displays and Diversions. — The Menagerie. — The Prisons. — The Heir-Apparent. — 
 An Elephant Fight. — Jesters and Jugglers. — The Koyal Palace. — Magnificence of the 
 Maharajah. — The Durbar. — The Young Prince. — Superb Presents. — A Magnificent 
 Salon. — The Maharajah's Conversation with Mr. Seward. — A.n Exhibition of Fire- 
 works. 
 
 A2yrll \st. — This has been a day of bewildering succession 
 of Oriental displays and diversions. The Minister of Public 
 Works came before breakfast, and attended us to the inevi- 
 table menagerie. The aviaries, though full, are inferior to those of 
 the King of Oude. We saw, for the first time, the long-legged, 
 a\\'kward, brown cassowary, whose name rhymes to "missionary" 
 in the witty verse where " Timbuctoo " finds its answer in " hymn- 
 book too." The tiger collection is very fine, many of the animals 
 of huge size and quite untamed. From the cages of wild beasts 
 we passed to the cages of wild men, the state-prison of Putteeala. It 
 covers an area of four acres, enclosed by a low adobe wall. There 
 are eight hundred and twenty-five prisoners, chiefly convicted of 
 tie crimes of arson and burglary; of these, only one hundred 
 and fifty can read and write. Two himdred convicts are impris- 
 oned in other parts of the province. Imprisonment is generally 
 for a term of one, two, three, or seven years, occasionally for life. 
 Capital punishment is inflicted only for murder. The population 
 of the city of Putteeala is eighty thousand, and that of the ancient 
 
460 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 
 <B -V 
 « 
 
 63 
 
 
 
 Hi:' • 
 
 kingdom or principality is two millions, and yet there has been no 
 capital execution in two years. The prisoners are neither contuied 
 in separate eells, nor do they live together. Those of each caste 
 work, sleep, and eat, in difterent divisions of ^he building ; tlic 
 odious distinction of caste is preserved nowhere more absolutolv 
 than here. The pariahs, outcasts everywhere in common life, are 
 equally segregated in prison, and subjected if possible to a l(.)wer 
 humiliation. All arc heavily ironed, and are guarded by an armcc' 
 police of three hundred men. Their labor is either hard or light, 
 according to the grade of their oiFence. Hard labor consists of 
 grinding grain with a hand-mill ; light labor is weaving carpet, 
 making shoes, pottery-ware, and the like. Our labor-reformers in 
 the United States may find a new argument for their claims in the 
 fact that, by the laws of Putteeala, five hours are a full day's work. 
 The prisoners have native medical attendance, but no religious or 
 secular instruction. The products of the prison arc sold in the 
 markets, and nearly defray its expenses, which average fourteen 
 cents a divy for each convict. We found at the prison-gate, as we 
 came out, a train of elephants kneeling for our service, but Me 
 respectfully declined the honor. On the way homeward, we met a 
 small boy in a gilded coach, with post'lions and outriders. lie 
 ■was so richly arrayed and superbly fittcudcd, that we at once con- 
 jectured him to be the heir-apparent. It was fortunate tlrtt we 
 saluted him as such ; for the minister who attended us afterwnrd 
 informed us that the little lad had been sent out to meet Mr. 
 Seward, and was attended by the entire ministry. We breakfasted 
 alone in our little palace, at ten o'clock. The maharajah came at 
 eleven. He invited Mr. Seward and the ladies to a grand durbar. 
 The English ladies whom we have met in India have declared to 
 us th'it they decline to receive native princes, on the ground that 
 the ladies of India decline to receive gentlemen in the zeuanab. 
 The reason given for this seclusion of women is, that a genera! 
 intercourse with society would be immoral and unbecoming tlic 
 dignity of the sex. But we are inclined to think that Christian 
 women who thus refuse to recognize the native gentlemen are 
 in fact adopting the bad customs and manners of India, instead 
 
 !A:#*^^K!1• -fSi.s.- '<', 
 
AN ELEPIIANT-FIGnT. 
 
 401 
 
 of commending our own better morals .nnd manners to the people 
 of that country. The prince's invitation was accepted. lie 
 seemed to have only just taken his leave, when wc were summoned 
 to meet him at the pavilion at the centre gate. Here he con- 
 ducted us up a winding staircase, and gave us seats in a balcony, 
 which overlooks the esplanade. He performed this courtesy in a 
 manner which showed that he fully understands the Western 
 sentiment of respect for women. He afterward took care to 
 explain to us, through the prime-minister, his regret that the pre- 
 vailing and uncompromising religious sentiment of tlu' country 
 prevented him from introducing the Western social customs into 
 his own family. He has two wives, neither of whom has ever seen 
 a foreigner, man or woman, nor has ever met even a countryman 
 of her own, other than the nearest blood relations. The prince 
 added that, before the Mohammedan conquest, the women of his 
 own royal house were more distinguished for political ability and 
 energy than the men. A strange remark for an Oriental. 
 
 The entertainment to which we had come was an elephant- 
 fight. Two enormous combatants were brought on the field. 
 They came with manifest reluctance. Their tusks had been cut 
 away half their length, and the stumps were bound with brass. 
 They fought by pushing their broad foreheads against each other, 
 and by crowding with the shorte.ied tusks. It was seen, after 
 one short encounter, that one animal was more, powerful than the 
 other. The weaker retreated. No eflbrt his keeper made could 
 encourage him to renew the contest, nor could any urging by the 
 driver of the victorious beast induce him to pursue his advantage. 
 The prince dismissed these combatants, or rather non-combatants, 
 with disgust, and caused them to be immediately replaced by two 
 other animals of equally gigantic size. They fought in the same 
 way as the first, t.nd with about the same result, except that the 
 vanquished animal in this case retreated quite out of tlte arena, 
 while the conqueror was with much difficulty held back from pur- 
 suit. These latter contestants gave place in their turn to two others, 
 and the form of the combat varied. With their trunks, they clasped 
 each other by the head, and, thus embraced, they continued a battle 
 
462 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 until one became so worried and exhausted that he gave up the 
 contest. The maharajah said, " These elephants are good light- 
 ers, but the heat overpowers them." We agreed with him abuiit 
 the temperature, while we thought the pertbrniance of the po^r 
 boasts needed no apology. The prince now took his leave, and we 
 returned to our palace, and took our seats on the veranda under a 
 canopy of Cashmere shawls, suj)ported by silver stalls, the fountains 
 gurgling at our feet. Two court-jesters appeared before us, and in 
 the Hindoo language went through a rehearsal of drolleries and 
 pantomimes, which seemed to us not unworthy of Dan Rico or 
 G. L. Fox. They gave place to an acrobat, who, although eighty 
 
 
 mi' 
 
 Ho -, 
 
 it 
 
 
 { 
 
 « 
 
 6? 
 
 Hi;- '■ 
 
 lum: ^ 
 
 A CONJUBOB AT PUTIEEALA. 
 
 years old, displayed prodigious strength and agility. With a long 
 sword in hand, he turned a double somersault, cutting a betel-nut 
 in two parts. Although these performances were ordered for our 
 
JUGGLERS AND MUSICIANS. 
 
 4G3 
 
 own party, tlicy soon attracted a crowd of native spectators, who 
 iiiiinitested a higher appreciation for them than we did. "We en- 
 joyed much more highly their rapt attention ; but the prime 
 minister would have no such vulgar intrusion. The admiring 
 crowd was dispersed. Then came on another sport, a company 
 of jugglers, one, a young man who performed feats with a goat 
 and a monkey ; another, a very old and eccentric Sikh, with 
 long, white hair, and eyes as large and sunken as those of 
 DiUiiel Webster. He seemed a man to whom we should pay our 
 homage, rather than one who should be required to cater to our 
 amusement. His achievement was to make a pigeon fire a mimic 
 cannon. The ordnance was duly loaded and primed. It went off, 
 but, iri the act, the gentle gunner rose into the air, and went off too. 
 The string of his captivity had fallen from his feet. He perched on 
 the palace-roof. The poor old man tried in vain to entice him 
 down. He appealed to the new ludience which had gathered 
 round, but no assistance could be given. The juggler became 
 inconsolable; when he saw his loss, he assumed an attitude as 
 piteous as that of " Rip Van Winkle " when he discovers the 
 absence of his faithful " Schneider." 
 
 Next came a musical band, which gave us a concert on native 
 instnnnents, playing their pensive airs, which we thought at first 
 so unintelligible, but which we now find pleasing, sometimes quite 
 touching. The gamut is like our own, of eight tones, but in play- 
 ing or singing a melody, called rang^ they use all the semi-tones, 
 so that the performance is a chromatic succession of notes, and you 
 have to guess which of the accentuated tones speak the air. Sud- 
 denly, at the prime minister's command, this series of diversions 
 came to an end, and all the performers, musicians, jesters, jugglers, 
 acrobats, and fools, disappeared. Thereupon sixty thorough -bred 
 Arabian, Persian, Australian, and African horses, came before us 
 tor inspection. They were gorgeously caparisoned, with silken 
 bridles, golden trimmings, kincob and velvet robes, and housings 
 of India cashmere. They wore also gold ear-rings and necklaces 
 and bangles. One of them, which is claimed to be the fastest horse 
 ill India, borrows the name " Hermit " from the great English 
 
«,^ 
 
 
 •tt 
 
 ■■ I* 
 
 W 
 
 11;;: 
 
 m 
 
 'gli» 
 
THE MAHARAJAH'S PALACE. 
 
 4G5 
 
 courser. Tlic fantastical grooms mnnifcstcd scarcely less prido 
 than the horses themselves in showini^ their tine points. 
 
 What wonder that we now thought the princely exhibition was 
 ended? It was not, thongh. Wo wore siiinnioned again to onr 
 seats in the pavilion at the gate. Two elephants canio into the 
 area with their calves — one of these ])orn since the captivity of the 
 cow, the other made a captive with its mother in the jungle. P^ew 
 persons, perhaps, can imagine how skilfully the little animal throws 
 back its trunk, while taking its nutriment. The calf that was 
 "native here, and to the manner born," was bold and indilVerent, 
 the other timid and frightened. Its cries were almost human, and 
 (he mother's manner of soothing it not less so. 
 
 At five o'clock, Mr. Seward, the ladies, Captain Ilorsford, and 
 servants, were duly mounted in gorgeous how^dahs on elephants, 
 Mr. Seward being raised to his howdali in a gilded palanquin. 
 Notwithstanding onr previous experience, wo all felt insecure in 
 our exaltation. While the elephants rose to their feet, wc held fast 
 to the arms of our howdahs, very much as the landsman grasps the 
 bulwark of a ship in a high sea. Our animals marched three 
 abreast, covering the entire pavement of the widened streets. 
 With the careful help of numberless supple grooms, the party came 
 safely to the foot of the broad staircase within the court of the 
 palace, except that, on our calling the roll, Freeman did not answer. 
 He, like the rest, was mounted on an elephant, but was left behind. 
 
 The i)alace is built on the sides of a quadrangle, is four stories 
 high, and is quite imposing. A battalion of infantry presented 
 arms, and a ringing blast from tlic bugles of a squadron of cavalry 
 greeted us as we entered the court. While we were dismounting^, 
 a brass band played the ever-favorite national anthem in honor of 
 Mr. Seward, and the bagpipers followed with " Annie Laurie " in 
 honor of the ladies. We have heretofore described the magnifi- 
 cence of the attire of the Maharajah of Putteeala, when he appeared 
 at the opera and at the concert in Calcutta. We wondered at the 
 strings of emeralds and pearls which drooped from his neck and 
 turban, when he met us yesterday at the citadel. When he paid 
 Lis visit of ceremony this morning at the pavilion, we thought he 
 
 ). ] 
 
466 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 
 !- 
 
 <« 
 I 
 
 |l 
 
 :4 
 
 ■m 
 m 
 
 i 
 
 IK,' ' 
 
 could have nothing in reserve so fine as the diamonds and emeralds 
 lie then wore. One chain, suspended from his turban, contained 
 twenty-six brilliants, each as large as a hazel-nut. But those doc- 
 orations were simplicity itself when compared Avith the pearls 
 rubies, emeralds, sapphires, and diamonds, which flashed upon us 
 as ho stood resplendent on the portico above, waiting to receive us. 
 The music, until now hushed, burst forth from twelve unseen bands 
 at once. With majestic courtesy, he took Mr. Seward by the hand 
 and conducted him up the steps, and across the terraced portico 
 and seated liim in a silver arm-chair, which was placed on a dais 
 within a recess, in a great hall of audience, which was filled to its 
 utmost capacity. Then excusing himself, his highness returned to 
 the portico, and conducted one jf the ladies to an equally magniii- 
 cent scat ; then returned, and brought the other lady in the same 
 courtly manner. He then seated himself between the two ladies. 
 Mr. Seward had bet'ome anxious, and now asked Captain Ilorsfonl 
 for Freeman. Inquiry was made, and he was found sitting meeldv, 
 if not quite patiently, in his gilded howdah, forgotten in the bustle; 
 equally unable to descend without assistance, or to mr;ke his wants 
 known. At command, a silver ladder was raised against the kneel- 
 ing beast, and Freemnn entered, having had to wait his audience at 
 Putteeala, as he had before to wait for the fifteenth amendment to 
 bring him tc the citizenship of the United States. 
 
 The music ceased. The prince, now turning to Mr. ScAvard, 
 delivered an elaborate speech, in which he explained, in a strain 
 perhaps not altogether free from Eastern hyperbole, the ]iridc and 
 satisfiiction which he derived from Mr. ScM'ard's visit to his capital, 
 and to the palace of his ancestors. This discourse was followed bv 
 an address equally complimentary to each of the ladies. Mr, 
 Seward replied that it was particularly gratifying to him to be 
 received with so nnich consideration in one of the most important 
 of the nativ3 states of India. These compliments finished, the 
 infant son and heir of the prince was brought in, accompanied bv 
 twenty or more tutors, and attendants, and was formally presented 
 to each of the visitors. The little boy, only four years old, is very 
 pretty. lie has large dark eyes and curling black hair. His small 
 
THE INFANT PRINCE. 
 
 467 
 
 onds and emeralds 
 turban, jonlained 
 t. But those (li'c- 
 
 witli the pearls, 
 ti flashed upon us 
 iting to receive ns. 
 elvc unseen bands 
 jward by the hand 
 i terraced portico, 
 
 placed on a dais 
 ch was filled to its 
 glmcss returned to 
 m equally niagnili- 
 • lady in the same 
 !en the two ladies. 
 I Captain Ilorsfonl 
 md sitting meekly, 
 )tten in the bustle ; 
 to mr.ke his wants 
 
 against the kneel- 
 
 ait his audience nt 
 tith amendment to 
 
 g to Mr. Seward, 
 lained, in a str.iiii 
 3ole, the jn-idc and 
 visit to his capital, 
 sc M'as followed by 
 
 the ladies. Mr, 
 inc: to him to be 
 le most important 
 
 ents finished, the 
 n, accompanied by 
 formally presented 
 r years old, is very 
 ;lc hair. His small 
 
 1 
 
 rlc'li scarlet-and-bluo silk dress was loaded with jewels. An enor- 
 mous turban, embroidered with gold, seemed enough to weigh him 
 down. He stood erect and made profound salams / then one of 
 his tutors, speaking in the child's n 'e, said : " I had the honor of 
 meeting your excellencies, in your morning drive, and I hope you 
 have had a pleasant day. I shall always remember that I have 
 seen you here." Having gone through his part with perfect pro- 
 priety, the yoang prince, like any less distinguished child, laid his 
 curly head on the arm of his great silver chair, and was soon sound 
 
 
 THE rniNCB OF rUTTEKALA 
 
 asleep. The maharajah now spoke of his domestic state, saying, 
 however, nothing of wife or wives, lie dwelt, as a proud father 
 might, on his two children, the one who was now with us, and the 
 other a girl, still younger, in the zenana. He tlien gave us a brief 
 account of his father, who was distinguished for his heroism, and 
 of his two sisters, one of whom is dead, the other :i Avidow. This 
 easy and pleasant conversation over, a troop of nautch-girls came 
 upon the floor, more richly dressed and more graceful even than 
 
468 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 m r*^ 4 4. a 
 
 SB.., 
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 > 
 
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 Uilli|i» «« 
 
 those we saw at the regatta on the Ganges. The hall was now 
 cleared. Fifty Sikh bagpipers, in British uniform, marched through 
 the hall, discoursing familiar airs under the leadership of a Scottish 
 piper, in tartan and kilts. 
 
 After these amusements, the business of the durbar was re- 
 sumed. The maharajah's ministers of state were announced 
 appeared and made salams in a manner which elsewhere might be 
 thought aifected or obsequious, but here is graceful and dignified. 
 Mr. Seward detained each, with questions in regard to the affairs 
 of his department, and the form in which it is conducted. Xext 
 came the general and commanders of the army, not forgetting the 
 Highland lc:".der of the pipers. Putteeala has no navy. Last, a 
 great number of persons, presented as " relatives of the prince," 
 employed in judicial, political, and municipal trusts. No present- 
 able man in the city was omitted. The presentations being over, a 
 multitude of servants, " that no man in haste could number," came 
 bearing silver trays on their heads filled with India fabrics of mus- 
 lins, cambrics, cashmeres, silks, and jewels, and laid the whole at 
 Mr. Seward's feet, the trays covering twenty feet square on the 
 floor. The pi-ince, with infinite gravity, invited Mr. Seward to 
 accept this " small and unworthy collection " as a token of his 
 higlmess's respect and aflfection. Mr. Seward, having been previ- 
 ously instructed, touched with his finger the simplest article, a 
 turban scarf of purple interwoven with gold thread. The trays 
 and their bearers immediately disappeared, but only to be replaced 
 by a similar display, no less costly and elegant. These treasures 
 were laid at the feet of one of the ladies, who was asked to accept 
 this " poor trash." In accordance with an intimation through an 
 officer, she touched a cashmere shawl. The train and merchandise 
 disappeared, and the third and equal presentation was made to the 
 second lady, who in like manner touched a shawl. The prince, 
 who had looked on with an air of supreme indifference to the 
 whole proceeding, then said to Mr. Seward, " I have a great many 
 other things in the palace, which I should like to present to you, 
 but I will not take up your time to look at them." Then, thanking 
 Mr. Seward and the ladies for having accepted these " unworthy 
 
A MAGNIFICENT SALON. 
 
 469 
 
 e hall was now 
 n arched through 
 liip of a Scottish 
 
 durbar was re- 
 ere announced, 
 ewhere might be 
 ful and dignitled. 
 ard to the aftairs 
 onducted. Next 
 lOt forgetting the 
 o navy. Last, a 
 s of the prince," 
 ists. No present- 
 ions being over, a 
 Id number," came 
 lia fabrics of mus- 
 laid the whole at 
 eet square on the 
 d Mr. Seward to 
 IS a token of his 
 aving been previ- 
 simplest article, a 
 m-cad. The trays 
 iuly to be replaced 
 These treasures 
 as asked to accept 
 liation through an 
 and merchandise 
 11 was made to the 
 ,awl. The prince, 
 lulifference to the 
 uive a great many 
 to present to you, 
 ' Then, thanking 
 these " unworthy 
 
 trifles," he in a loud voice, and with an imperious manner, directed 
 that all the articles wdiich had been thus displayed and oifered to 
 us, should be conveyed to Mr. Seward's palace and delivered to his 
 servants. For our part, we are quite sure that " these unworthy 
 trifles " would have been sufficient to stock an Indian bazaar in 
 J{ew York. Price, Freeman, and Jeanie, who had been filled 
 with admiration in witnessing the august ceremony, became sud- 
 denly perplexed to know how they should convey so large a quan- 
 tity of precious baggage in our small special railway car. 
 
 The Prince of Putteeala now spoke with pride of the salon in 
 which the durbar was held, and not without reason. It is one 
 hundred and thirty feet long, sixty feet wide, and thirty feet high. 
 The roof is supported by double rows of columns, between which 
 are suspended crystal chandeliers, with variegated-glass shades for 
 two thousand lights. The walls, on all sides, are hung with mir- 
 rors. Mr. Seward rose to take leave. The betel-nut was offered to 
 our palates, the attar of roses to our h^nds, and we were dismissed 
 with a suggestion that we should drive through those of the city 
 p:irks and gardens which we had not yet seen, and then return for 
 a tinal visit in the evening. The maharajah conducted us down 
 the staircase and placed us in carriages. We drove an hour 
 through the public grounds, being stopped every few rods by gar- 
 deners, who covered us with flowers, and filled our carriages with 
 fruit. A band of music, on the way, gave us "God save the 
 Queen," which tunc these good people seem to think to be a 
 national hymn of our own. On the way to our pavilion, we met 
 the maharajah, driving his favorite " Hermit " before a dog-cart, at 
 a furious rate, followed by a flying escort. 
 
 We returned to the palace at eight o'clock. All the two thou- 
 sand candles were ablaze, and were reflected to infinitude by the 
 broad, bright mirrors. Not only the salon, but the court, the 
 grand stairway, the portico, the entire palace, with its thousand 
 windows and balconies, were illuminated. So the ancestral hall of 
 Putteeala was as brilliant as the mountain-palace in which Cupid 
 visited the enchanted Psyche. We had an hour of conversation, 
 which was the more interesting because informal. It turned chiefly 
 
 31 
 
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 . ifc, 
 
470 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
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 on the prince's intended journey the next year to England, and 
 his desire to extend it to the United States. He presented Lis 
 photograph to Mr. Seward, and requested him to write from 
 different points on his travels in India. He then asked for a 
 minute account of the painful event at Washington, in which 
 Mr. Seward was a sufferer. He showed a deep interest in that 
 subject, although his knowledge of it was imperfect. The mahara- 
 jah now informed us that he had made all needful arrangements 
 for our comfortable journey to the Himalayas. His thoughts then 
 turned once more upon himself. He ordered in, and exhibited 
 with much pride, his state-robes, among them the one in which we 
 had seen him at the concert in Calcutta. All of them were stiffened 
 with jewels. E?timated together, with his paternal shield and sword. 
 their value is half .', million dollars. 
 
 Taking a fin; 1 leave, we returned to our pavilion, expecting: 
 that our late dinner would be a quiet one. We were mistaken, 
 At the moment when the dessert came upon the table, the Minister 
 of Public Affairs announced an exhibition of fire-works in the gar- 
 den. We walked througli a section of it which we had not previ- 
 ously had time to explore, and, amid the murmuring of cascades, 
 took our seats in the balcony of a little palace or pavilion, the coun- 
 terpart of the one in which we reside. The pyrotechnic exhibition 
 had all the variety of our similar displays at home, but in excess, 
 A party of a hundred artists on each side of the oblong lake were to 
 alternate with a corresponding corps on the opposite side. These 
 performers were, however, so emulous that, instead of making such 
 a measured display as they intended, the whole exhibition went otf 
 simultaneously. There were lanterns, transparencies, rockets, ser- 
 pents, trees, wheels, stars, ribbons, candles, balloons, naval fights, 
 and bombardments ; all these illuminations being reflected from the 
 surfiice of the clear, smooth lake and surrounding cascades and foun- 
 tains. The unexpected activity of the performers, while it produced j 
 much perplexity and confusion, had, nevertheless, one compensation i 
 for us; within twenty minutes from the time the display began, 
 BUD, moon, stars, dragons, serpents, and balloons, were expiring all 
 around us, leaving only blackened frame-works on the ground. 
 
 had pla 
 last stag 
 to June 
 of the t 
 try over 
 metallic 
 rying fn 
 tains, 
 liead as 
 it with a 
 wear the 
 this subj* 
 country, 
 hrimmed 
 arriving 
 would sal 
 to enjoy 
 on that 
 
to England, and 
 [e presented his 
 L to write from 
 [\en aslced for a 
 ngton, in which 
 ) interest in that 
 2t. The mahara- 
 ful arrangements 
 lis thoughts then 
 in, and exhibited 
 3 one in which we 
 hem were stitTened 
 ,1 shield and sword, 
 
 pavilion, expectini: 
 Ve were mistaken. 
 table, the Minister 
 L-e-works in the gar- 
 L we had not previ- 
 nuring of cascades, 
 pavilion, the com- 
 foteclmic exhibition 
 ame, but in excess, 
 oblong lake were t<> 
 >positc side. These 
 ead of making such 
 exhibition went oif 
 rencies, rockets, ser- 
 illoons, naval fights. 
 ig reflected from the 
 
 .g cascades and foun- 
 i^s, while it produced I 
 ss, one compensation 
 3 the disphiy began. 
 ns, were expiring all 
 on tlie ground. 
 
 CHAPTEH XIII. 
 
 A GLANCE AT THE HIMALAYAS. 
 
 Departure from Putteeala. — Along the Banks of the Jumna. — Protection from the Sun. 
 — Reception at Pindarrie. — An Illumination. — Kallia and Ku&sowlee. — The British 
 Commissioner. — A View of the Himalayas. — An Irish Home. 
 
 April 3d. — We left Putteeala, on the morning of the 1st in- 
 stant, by a train of four-horse post-coaches, which the maharajah 
 had placed at our service, and, under a farewell salute, began the 
 last stage of our excursion to the Himalayas. After stopping here 
 to lunch, we continued the journey thirty-five miles along the banks 
 of the Jumna, making in all sixty-nine miles. Though the coun- 
 try over which we passed seemed sandy and barren, yet the fiim 
 metallic roads were crowded with bullock and dak mule-trains car- 
 rying freights to the troops, dwellers, and sojourners, in the moun- 
 tains. All classes here regard the sun as their chief enemy, and the 
 head as his point of attack. The natives, not content with covering 
 it with a thick turban, draw all their garments over it, and even 
 wear their pallet beds upon it. For ourselves, we have divided on 
 this subject. The ladies wear the solar tojjees (pith hats) of the 
 country, while Mr. Seward adheres tenaciously to his light, broad- 
 brimmed "Panama." As the night came on, the dak animals, 
 arriving at their frequent stations, were unharnessed, and, as they 
 would sav on the Plains, were " corralled." Their drivers sat down 
 to enjoy their frugal meals under the trees. The breeze, however, 
 on that day awakened a driving, blinding sand-storm, bringing on 
 
 ii 
 
 'h il 
 
472 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 thick darkness. Our road, sometimes crossing river-chunnels, now 
 dry, and then winding across orchards of mango, tamarind, and 
 date-palm trees, on the plain, became uncertain and ii:isafe. T!ie 
 only lights which appeared in the lonely journey were by no means 
 inspiriting. They were Hindoo obsequies, and 
 
 "All around 
 Glared evermore the frequent funeral-piles," 
 
 « 
 
 5r 
 
 
 ■•■t 
 
 ( 
 
 III; 
 lilt 
 
 
 
 ■^Vj 
 
 The fearful sand-storm was laid by a pouring rain, whicli only 
 made the darkness more intense. We were about sinking witli fa- 
 tigue and apprehension, when our spirits were roused by innumer- 
 able torch-lights. The people of Pindarrie, a town belonging to 
 the Maliarajah of Putteeala, looking for our arrival, had come out 
 to meet us on the plain. Under this cheering illumination, tliev 
 presented to- us their " submission," and tendered the hospitalities 
 of the place. They conducted us through crowded streets, and we 
 alighted under a broad, high gate. Keccived here, we passed, bv 
 the light of the torches, a series of fountains with intervening cas- 
 cad3s, like those of Putteeala — our guides at the same time in- 
 forming us that the walks had been illuminated, but, much to their 
 disappointment and grief, the storm had extinguished the lights. 
 A pavilion in the spacious garden received us for the niglit. It 
 differed from ou?' house at Putteeala, being of purer Hindoo archi- 
 tecture, instead of being Moorish with European accessories. Tlio 
 dinner provided for us, though elaborate, did not detain us Ions:. 
 Clambering high, steep stairways, and passing through nariov,- 
 corridors, we reached a suite of apartments, with balconies over- 
 looking the fountains. We were most reluctantly awakened t^vo 
 hours later by an announcement that the storm was over, and that 
 the garden was illuminated for our special entertainment. It is 
 not in human nature to resist persevering kindness timidly offered. 
 We dressed and performed with all alacrity the duty expected of 
 us as admiring spectators. The light, refracted and streaming 
 through the cascades, gathered into brightness over them, and glis- 
 tening on the dripping foliage up through the orange-trees, lost it- 
 self in the pale, glimmering rays of the half-clouded moon. Unlike 
 
RIDE TO KUSSOWLEE 
 
 473 
 
 jr-chivnnela, now 
 , tamarind, and 
 tid ii;.isafe. T'.ie 
 ere by no means 
 
 nd 
 
 .es." 
 
 rain, whicli only 
 t sinkin}^ witli i'a- 
 used by innuuiei-- 
 twn belonging to 
 val, bad come out 
 illumination, tliey 
 d tbe hospitalities 
 Led streets, and we 
 ere, we passed, by 
 li intervening cas- 
 tbe same time in- 
 but, mucb to their 
 ruisbed tbe lights. 
 for tbe niglit. It 
 urcr Hindoo arclii- 
 1 accessories. The 
 lot detain us Ion;:. 
 tbrougb uan-ov; 
 tb balconies over- 
 Intlv awakened two 
 was over, and that 
 tertainment. It is 
 ,es8 timidly offered. 
 c duty expected of 
 tod and streaming 
 over tbem, and glis- 
 range-trees, lost it- 
 dedmoon. Unlil<e 
 
 our experience at " tlie metropolis," our sleep tbat night in provin- 
 cial Pindarrie was not a complete success. Our house was indeed 
 Oriental in its appointments as well as in construction. Tbe atmos- 
 ])liere, cooled by the stor.,.!, was refreshing, and the music of rus- 
 tling leaves and falling waters was soothing, but the princely pavil- 
 ion, inhabited only on occasions like the present, has become the 
 auodo of owls, bats, rats, lizards, and centipedes. AVe had hardly 
 fallen into a second slumber, when we were aroused this time to 
 wage war with those malignant disturbers of human repose. The 
 allied army was m^re than once put to flight, but it came back with 
 a strong reiinforcement of well-disciplined and practical mosquitoes. 
 The trial was attended by only one equivalent : it enabled us to see, 
 as the storm cleared away, and the full moon resumed her splendor, 
 a range of the Himalayas stretching across the northern horizon. 
 
 The next morning, at an early hour, we drove four miles to 
 Kalka, at the base of the mountains, the end of the carriage-road. 
 In reaching Kalka, we had come twelve hundred miles from Cal- 
 cutta, and gained an elevation of two thousand feet, without other 
 evidence of it than a somewhat lower temperature, and a slightly 
 perceptible difference of vegetation. We were now to climb five 
 thousand feet higher, to the summit of tbe lowest range of the 
 Himalayas, at Kussowlee, and to do this in a journey of nine miles. 
 Mountain-travel here is done in three ways ; by the jhanijjmi^ a 
 rude sedan-chair; the j^aZ/tW, a covered litter, in which the passenger 
 is obliged to lie down ; or in the saddle with mules and ponies. We 
 took jliampaus and ponies. At the moment of departure, our guide, 
 raising his arm almost perpendicularly, pointed to a Avhite object, 
 high up the mountain-acclivity, and said, " Behold Kussowlee ! " 
 Like all mountain-roads, these are engineered by torrents winding 
 down deep, irregular, and dark ravines or canons. At one moment 
 we had the sun on our right, then quickly on our left, sometimes 
 in front, and sometimes at our back, and as often directly over- 
 head. Often we descended, by a long road hewn from the moun- 
 tain-side, into shided dells, and crossed noisy brooks, only to rise by 
 a similar acclivity to higher hill-tops. Sometimes we looked for 
 an indefinite distance over the smiling plain of the Jumna, almost 
 
 m. 
 
 
474 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 
 ■•■l« 
 
 I- 
 
 Hi.' 
 
 « ' 
 
 J ' 
 
 i 
 
 ■u i' 
 
 J* 
 
 fanv^ying that we saw its junction with the Ganges, and then sud- 
 denly found ourselves imprisoned within lowering, frowning walls 
 of mountain rocks. We passed a fortification, which, before the 
 British o'cupation, protected the peaceful lowlanders against incur- 
 sions from the wild and more vigorous invaders from Afghanistan. 
 It hung so long over our heads that we thought this castle nuist 
 mark the end of our journey. With much surprise, we li'tcrward 
 found ourselves looking down upon the same fortification, and -t, 
 yet we were more than five miles from Kussovvlee. The date-palm 
 maintains its foothold for only a short distance on the mountain- 
 side. Wheat -fieldf* are seen at the height of three tho'asand feet. 
 Taose below are quite ready for the sickle, while the uppermost 
 fields show the bluish-green blade, as we see it at home, when just 
 unveiled from the snow. Wheat will be gathered on the banks of 
 the Potomac long before that which is growing on these mountain- 
 terraces. The palm and the mango gave place chiefly to the low 
 candelabra cactus, which seems to require neither depth of soil nor 
 constant moisture. This showy plant intermingles with elders and 
 alders, white, blue, yellow, purple, and crimson mountain-flowers, 
 here and there a dwarf rhododendron, and profuse " Virginia creep- 
 ers." At the height of four thousand feet, the cactus gives up the 
 struggle, and the small plateaus are covered with low spreading 
 pines, with trunks of not more than eight inches in diameter. The 
 road now becomes more steep, the precipices more abrupt. It is 
 the season of drought. The mountain-sia s are brown. There is, 
 nevertheless, in every dell, a village or hamlet, the houses mainly 
 built of sand-stone, with thatched-roofs, and surrounded by stacks of 
 hay and small herds of small cattle, much more sleek and fat than 
 those which are raised on the plains. Travellers who have visited the 
 eastern part of the Himalayas tell us that, on heights greater tlinn 
 those which we reached, they found forests of oak and laurel. We 
 did not see the eagle which those travellers describe as soaring over 
 the mountain-peaks, nor the monkey which they say pelts the 
 passer-by in the valley of Cashmere. Before we reached Kussovvlee, 
 thick clouds arose, as is their wont, leaving no towering peak, pin- 
 nacle, or distant range of mountainj visible. Kussowlec, a not in- 
 
A GLIMPSE OF THE HIMALAYAS. 
 
 476 
 
 considerable native town, is now occupied with army hospitals an 1 
 a small garrison. Major Parsons, commissioner at Simla, had y. o- 
 vidcd for us '^ pleasant lodge in the village. A lassitude c .mo 
 over us in consequence of our travelling in the upper air, and this 
 oommingled with feelings of disappointment that, although we had 
 come so far to see the Himalayas, we were to see only their base. 
 The British officers, considerate and hospitable, as we have univer- 
 sally found them, allowed us two hours for rest, before the entertain- 
 ment at which wc were to receive their families. Here, as at Pin- 
 darric, we were awakened prematurely, but more to our satisfaction ; 
 the sky had brightened, and lae f,now-clad range was visible. "We 
 hastened to the veranda, and the Himalayas confronted us, streteh- 
 hig east and west as far as the eye could reach, looming half-way 
 up to the centre of the heavens. The crest was an undulating field 
 of dazzling snow; but presto, change! Even at the moment when 
 we were aiming the telescope, black spots descended on that white 
 mantle. The clouds came back again. Thenceforth, neither rocko 
 iior snow-fields were to be seen. The distant Himalayas had dis- 
 appeared as suddenly as they had come before us. Nevertheless, 
 we were content. Wc stood on the giant's foot, and for one mo- 
 mei;!; had looked him fully in the face. 
 
 At mid-day the horizon cleared, and we saw, eastward, the 
 valley in which the mighty Ganges has his cradle ; and, westward, 
 the plain in which not only the Indus has its fountains, but also 
 that from which the Jhylum and Sutlej spring. It was something 
 to study, from this stand-point, the geography of the continent. 
 From our eminence we distinctly traced the mountain-passes 
 through which the northern invaders of India came — the Tartar, 
 the Afghan, the Persian, and even the great Macedonian. We 
 left with regret the interesting society which gathered around us at 
 Kussowlee. As we descended the mountain, we remarked that we 
 found this portion of the Ilimf^layas as sterile and dull during a 
 large part of the year as the liocky Mountains. Neither the one 
 nor the other can be cultivated without partial irrigation, but with 
 it t!ie now desolate valleys and table-lands may be made as luxuri- 
 ant and beautiful as the peaks which rise above them are sublime. 
 
476 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
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 •■«, 
 
 
 it 
 
 1j! 
 
 T.t was nightfall when we reached our Hindoo resting-place at 
 1 -ndarric. All the way down, the guides were on the lookout 
 for pantliers, which infest this fine Government road, but we saw- 
 no w^ild-beast of any kind, though we heard all around us tlie 
 mournful and distracting of the jackal. Cakes, tea, and 
 
 wine, awaited us at Kalka — a generous supper, with renewed and 
 successful illumination of the fountains, at Findarrie. 
 
 Simple, gentle mountaineers ! Pleased above all other pleas- 
 ures when pleasing the stranger. When shall we see again hos- 
 pitalities like those of town and country in Putteeala ? 
 
 Taking our leave as soon as possible, we resumed our carriaejes 
 at eleven o'clock, and by the light of the now unclouded moon we 
 made our way down the bank of the Jumna, and found the <i;ates 
 and door of Major Tigh's Irish home wide open at three o'clock 
 in the morning. What a happy realm Great Britain would be, if 
 the English and the Gaelic elements were combined as harmoni- 
 ously in the entire population of the islands as they are in that 
 genial dwelling ! 
 
 %t 
 
 TUB UIMALATAS. 
 
CHx\PTER XIY. 
 
 ALLAHABAD AND JUBBULPOOR. 
 
 An Interesting Debate. — Earl Mayo, the Viceroy of India. — His Murder. — The Vindhya 
 Mountains. — Industrial Activity of Jubbulpoor. — An Elephant Hide. — A Night Voy- 
 age on the Nerbudda. — Romantic and Beautiful Scenery. — Uiudoo Tenderness for 
 Animals. 
 
 Government House, Allahabad, Ajwil Gfh. — We arrived at a 
 late hour last night. The rest which was so needful was broken 
 at (l;iwn by marti il music. A detachment was escorting the vice- 
 roy from the railway-station to Government House. 
 
 "Wc have had the good fortune to hear a very interesting debate 
 in the Legislative Council, over which he presides, and also of 
 dining with him and the members of that distinguished body. 
 The viceroy is on his way with his court to the summer capital 
 of Simla, in the same lower range of the Himalayas from which we 
 have just descended. He rests here to-night, and the day after 
 to-morrow he will hold the great durbar at Lucknow. The in- 
 vitations to us to witness it are earnest, but the entire press of 
 India is warning us to leave the country before the intense heat 
 comes on. 
 
 Earl Mayo ' has won our grateful jegard by the studious care he 
 
 'On the 8th of May, ISII, this wise and benevolent statesman, able magistrate, 
 and genial friend, received his death at the hands of a Mohammedan political prisoner, 
 while on a tour of inspection of the penitentiary at Port Blair, in the Andaman Islands. 
 Our cxci'llent friend Lord Napier, as Governor of Madras, succeeded him as Viceroy of 
 India, ad interim. 
 
 »*5 
 
478 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 has practised for our sfitety, comfort, and instruction, during our 
 travels in the country. Mr. Seward is highly gratiHed in having 
 had this opportunity to renew his acknowledgments, and to 
 assure the viceroy of the evidences ho iinds everywhere of tho 
 success of his administration. 
 
 We take our departure to-night, and with it our regrets that wo 
 have not language to express to Sir William Muir and his fainily 
 our appreciation and gratitude for all their kipdncss. 
 
 SS*-!! 
 
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 ■'■■♦'! 
 
 Juhbuljjoo)', April Sth. — We left Allahabad at midnight and 
 opened our eyes this morning on a broad table-land of the Via- 
 dhya Mountains, the range which, traversing llindostan from east 
 to west, parts the tributaries of the Ganges from those of the 
 Nerbudda and the Indus. These mountains, better known in early 
 geography as the north border of the Deccan, intersect the lot'tj 
 Ghauts which stretch from Cape Comorin quite up to the Iliniala- 
 yas. This region is less densely inhabited and more sparingly cul- 
 tivated than the plain of the Ganges. Aboriginal tribes are still 
 existing here, which have survived all the political changes of 
 two thoi ^and years, and still retain their primitive languages, re- 
 ligions, and customs. 
 
 Jubbulpoor exhibits much industrial activity. It is for West- 
 ern India what Ogden is for the western region of the United 
 States. The railways from Bombay, Madras, and Calcutta, meet 
 here. Mr. Grant, commissioner for the province, has received 
 us with the same British hospitality and courtesies that have 
 made our sojourn in India so agreeable. In this inclement sea- 
 son few Europeans travel even on the railways during the day, 
 and none go abroad in any other way except at night. Nothing 
 remains for us, therefore, on our arrival, but to enjoy a most wel- 
 come sleep. 
 
 April 9th. — Carriages were in waiting at our door last evening, 
 and we drove through the pretty suburb of the town, and into the 
 open country. Night had fully set in when we reached a wooded 
 glen. As we descended from the carriages, two grim elephants 
 
 
A NIGHT VOYAGE. 
 
 479 
 
 ive lanffuajires, ro- 
 
 kneeled before us. These animals are used instead of ambulances 
 iu the army. A rough board or pannier is swung on cither side 
 of the elephant, with a swinging stirrup below it. The rider is 
 secured to his seat, if ho need, by a ro[)e round his waist, which is 
 fastened to the animal's head. Our elephants, though docile 
 enough, were young and impatient. They tramped four miles in 
 half an hour, in the dark, along a narrow path through the jungle, 
 fording a broad and deep stream on the way, greatly to our terror. 
 At the end of the march, we stood at the door of a dak bungalow, 
 hanging half-way down a rocky precipice, with the Nerbudda 
 meandering at its base. We rested an hour in the bungalow, and 
 then with the aid of guides made our way cautiously three lumdred 
 and fifty feet down, and took our seats in a flat-bottomed boat. 
 Patient Hindoos applied themselves noiselessly to the oars, and the 
 voyage which we began, though dull at first, soon became one of 
 absorbing interest. The Nerbudda here forces its passage through 
 a mountain of white marble, and is twisted right and left by 
 ledges projecting from either bank. The deep, dark river moves in 
 its serpentine channel without perceptible current. The summits 
 of the banks, changing position with every stroke of the oars, are 
 covered with forest-trees, over the tops of which are seen the pin- 
 nacles of innumerable Hindoo temples, raised here by a sentiment 
 of superstitious reverence for scenery so romantic and beautiful. 
 The river has the breadth of the Delaware at the famous Gap. 
 The waning moon now rose over our heads. First, the one white 
 rocky bank received the silvery light, while the other was in dark 
 shadow, then the other, and then, for only an instant, both shores. 
 Xo^v the temples and tree-tops intercepted the rays, then the 
 luminary was reflected entire by the dear, still waters. The glis- 
 tening, winding precipices, now in light, and now in shade, took 
 on the shapes of castles, palaces, cathedrals, and temples. It 
 seemed as if we were passing beneath the ruins of some vast capital 
 like Benares. A dead silence prevailed, except that the owl, dis- 
 turbed by our coming, poured forth his sad complaints from the 
 overhanging rocks, and the jackal shrieked his despairing cry of 
 hunger. All the while the river was smooth, and alternately black 
 
 r1 
 
 34 
 
480 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
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 III' 
 
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 or shimmering in the moonlight. Suddenly our barge trembled, 
 the stream beneath it brt.ce into rapids, and we heard coming up 
 before us the rumbling sound of a cataract. The voyage was 
 finished. Returning by the same gentle beating of the oars, mo 
 studied under a more constant light all these enchantments in 
 detail. The moon withdrew her light as we climbed the rugged 
 bank and reached the bungalow. Then, laying aside our ambition 
 for elephantine pomp, we contentedly took our seats in a jaunting- 
 car, before which were harnessed two little white bullocks, leaving 
 the elephants to follow with the servants. Our driver had an odd 
 way of inciting the animals. Whenever they stopped, he had only 
 to pull their tails, and away they went over hill and dale, down tlie 
 crooked ravine, and through the perilous ford, with such speed tliat 
 they reached the station half an hour before the stately elephants, 
 who came up at their appointed time. Here we resumed our car- 
 riages. During the livelong night, wild beasts held high carnival 
 around us on our homeward way. Jackals filled the air with tlieir 
 howls, and wild-boars dashed across the road, scarcely taking oare 
 to avoid the hoofs of our horses. 
 
 It is almost enough to raise a doubt of the unity of the hu- 
 man race, when one is called to contrast the perverse tenderness 
 of the Hindoos toward animals, with the vigorous war which all 
 other races make to subjugate or exterminate them. This tender- 
 ness is a fruit of tliT national Pythagorean philosophy, whose 
 element is transmigration, and teaches that the souls of men, after 
 death, enter the bodies of animals. To what height of absurdity has 
 this idoa been carried ! The Thugs, now happily suppressed, found 
 in it a religions warrant for plundering and strangling men, divid- 
 ing the spoils with their altar of Kali. No Hindoo can bo induced 
 to pursue the tiger, the lion, or even the cobra de capello. It must 
 have been in Ilindostan that Mr. Darwin found his theory, whitli 
 derives man from the monkey. The Hindoo farmer not only 
 allows the simian race to feed on his growing crops and fruits, but 
 also to glean in the harvest field. We felicitated the gardener at 
 Puttecala on his fine crop of oranges. He responded that the 
 monkeys would carry ofi* the largest portion of the fruit. Wc 
 
THIEVING MONKEYS. 
 
 481 
 
 barge trembled, 
 leard coming up 
 'he voyage was 
 of tlie oars, wo 
 inehantmcnts in 
 ibed the rugged 
 ide our ambition 
 its in a jaunting- 
 bulloeks, leaving 
 iriver had an odd 
 iped, he had only 
 id dale, down the 
 h such speed that 
 stately elephants, 
 resumed our car- 
 leld high carnival 
 the air with their 
 ircely taking care 
 
 unity of the hu- 
 verse tenderness 
 us war which all 
 m. This tendcr- 
 lilosophy, whose 
 juls of men, after 
 it of absurdity has 
 suppressed, found 
 gling men, divid- 
 jo can be induced 
 capello. It must 
 his theory, whieli 
 farmer not only 
 )ps and fruits, but 
 I the gardener at 
 ponded that the 
 f the fruit. We 
 
 aslced him why he did not drive them off, " "We do frighten them 
 away, but they come back again." 
 
 " Why do you not kill them ? " 
 
 " Oh ! " he replied, " if a man should kill one of those filching 
 fellows, a hundred of them would come together, and they would 
 never leave that man alive." 
 
 TUS NGRDDDDA. 
 
 
 b 
 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 
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 19 
 
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 111 ' 
 
 I Hi 
 ("* 
 
 BOMBAY. 
 
 The Ghaut Mountains. — A Cosmopolitan City. — The Natives of Bombay. — A Mixed Pop. 
 ulation. — Chinese, Siamese, Javanese, Cingalese, Sikh, Afghan, and Cashmerian.— 
 The Races of the South and the North, of the East and the West. — Parsee Customs. 
 — Parsee Religion. — Hindoo, Mohammedan, and Parsee Disposal of the Dead.— Ad- 
 miral Cockburn. — The Great Heat. — An Excursion to Elephanta. 
 
 United States Consulate, Bombay, April l^th. — Wc arrived liere 
 on the 11th. The two mountain-ranges of the west coast of In- 
 dia, called the Eastern and Western Ghauts, resemble our own 
 Alleghanies. Their loftiest peaks are several thousand feet high. 
 Although our journey from Jubbulpoor lay across both ranges, the 
 highest plateau we crossed was two thousand feet. The largest 
 cotton-fields of India are found in the valleys of the Nerbudda and 
 the Taptec. Marvellous engineering has been practised in bring- 
 ing the railway down from the plain of Nerbudda to the valley of 
 the Taptce, which carries the ocean-tide up to the once great and 
 now not unimportant port of Surat, one hundred and sixty miles 
 north of Bombay. 
 
 Our first impression on arriving here was that Bombay is more 
 cosmopolitan than any other city in India. We experienced a feel- 
 ing almost of regret when we left the cosy railway-car, wliicli, for 
 nearly a month, had been our rolling home. The stars and stripes 
 were floating over the consulate not far from the railway station, 
 and Mr. Farnham, the consul here, was awaiting our arrival. The 
 Governor of Bombay, Sir Seymour Fitzgerald, sent a secretary to 
 
POPULATION OF BOMBAY. 
 
 483 
 
 Bombay.— A Mixed Pop- 
 Than, and Cashmerian.- 
 West. — Parsee Customs, 
 tposal of the Dead.— Ad- 
 lanta. 
 
 ,. "Wg arrived here 
 
 e west coast of In- 
 resemble our own 
 tlionsand feet high. 
 )ss both ranges, the 
 feet. The largest 
 the Kerbudda and 
 practised in bring- 
 [da to the valley of 
 the once great and 
 |red and sixty miles 
 
 lat Bombay is more 
 s experienced a feel- 
 llway-car, wliicb, for 
 Dhe stars and stripes 
 I the railway station. 
 jig our arrival. The 
 I, sent a secretary to 
 
 tender us the hospitalities of Government House, and we found, 
 also awaiting us, that eminent native gentleman, Sir Jamsetjee 
 Jejeebhoy, with his three sons. Although the city of Bombay 
 stands on an island, the railway-traveller is not made aware of its 
 separation from the main-land. The terraced shore of the island 
 looks across a bay, studded with lesser islands, and capacious 
 enough for the commerce of the world. Lofty promontories, 
 stretching out from the coast, divide the harbor into three not 
 unequal basins. The native population here, more than in Madras 
 and Calcutta, have engaged in European commerce, and they have 
 also in a considerable degree come to adopt Western usages and 
 customs. Indeed, it needs a close examination to distinguish be- 
 tween the streets and dwellings occupied by the natives and those 
 inliabited by Europeans. The cocoa-nut palm seems a universal 
 favorite for purposes of shade and ornament. It embowers and 
 almost conceals the homes of the million inhabitants of Bombay. 
 Tlie railroad system, recently completed, which connects the city 
 with Calcutta, as well as with the peninsula and the Punjab, has 
 enabled Bombay to supplant Calcutta as the gate of India. The 
 people of Calcutta are sharply divided between the native Hindoo 
 population and the resident Europeans. Bombay, on the contrary, 
 has a mixed population. You see this the moment you enter the 
 Bazaar, for so is called the part of the city devoted to native trade. 
 There tlie inevitable and versatile Chinaman — who is seaman, mer- 
 chant, and banker — the effeminate Siamese, Javanese, and Cinga- 
 lese of the south, mingle with the sturdy Sikh, Afghan, and Casb- 
 racrian of the north. The native Mahratta stalks with haughty 
 bearing through the streets, followed by the Portuguese half-castes 
 of Goa. The black native of Madagascar is here, with the Persian, 
 the Arab, the Abyssinian, the Syrian, the Turk, and the Greek 
 from the Levant. Here in Bombay, moreover, Asiatics aspire to 
 and gain high commercial rank, and social and political positions, 
 under the liberal patronage of the government. The Parsee mer- 
 chant vies with the educated Hindoo in establishing charity-schools 
 and hospitals, and both alike obtain seats in the Legislative Coun- 
 cil. AVe have come even thus early under equal obligations to emu- 
 
484 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
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 lous members of the two emulous classes. "We were entertained at 
 dinner on the 10th at Government House by Sir Seymour Fitzijer- 
 ald and his mother. Some fifty ladies and gentlemen, all Enf,']isli, 
 including the Bishop of Bombay, the members of the Legislative 
 Council, and many officers of the army, were present. Though tlie 
 dining-hall is furnished after the English fashion, the house is a 
 spacious bungalow of one story, like most such structures in the 
 tropics, with an encircling veranda as wide as the house. Our 
 entertainment yesterday was equally hospitable, bnt of a very dif- 
 ferent character. Manockjee Cursetjee, our Parsee host, with his 
 two sons, stood at the basement-door of a square house of four iottv 
 stories. Every apartment of the house looks out upon either the 
 sea or the city. Although it was not yet dark, every chamber was 
 brilliantly illuminated. "We thought, at first, that this stylo of 
 dwelling belonged exclusively to the Parsee, but we have found 
 out since that the Hindoo emulates the Parsee in the height of tlic 
 house and the brilliancy of its lights. The Parsee's palace ali'ords 
 ev^ery convenience and comfort except the necessary easy staircase. 
 We declined the offer of being carried up by chairs, and ascended 
 instead the corkscrew which leads to the foui'th story, where we 
 were received in a grand salon by the accomplished daughters of 
 our host. They were dressed exquisitely in the native costume. 
 except that they were guilty of offence against the national sense of 
 propriety by covering their feet with shoes, and their hands M'itli 
 gloves. Manockjee Cursetjee, Esquire, is a Parsee of good ihniily. 
 native here, who acquired an English education, and studied law in 
 the English university. Having obtained a judicial appointment 
 from the government, and discharged its functions for souio years 
 with ability and success, he visited England and trr veiled exten- 
 sively throughout Europe, being everywhere received in hiirii 
 circles. His daughters, who have been instructed by En,irlisli ^ox- 
 ernesses, have also travelled in Europe, and they are understood tn 
 bo the first Hindoo ladies who have done so. His two sons were 
 educated at Oxford and Cambridge. The ladies assured ns tli.it 
 when travelling in Europe they adopted the "Western costume, hut 
 thev conform here to the Oriental habits and the dress of their 
 
PAKSEE CUILDREX. 
 
 iSi 
 
 people. The gentlemen make a compromise on the clothes ques- 
 tion. They were dressed at dinner faultlessly in European fashion, 
 |)iit had on scarlet-velvet caps ; while the father, throughout the 
 entire evening, wore that strange, uncomfortable, ill-looking, fun- 
 nel-shaped hat, by which the disciple of Zoroaster is known, and 
 has been known a thousand years, wherever he has been seen 
 throughout the whole world. Probably asceticism is inseparable 
 t'roni devotion ; certainly it has revealed itself at some time in the 
 progress of every religion. Moreover, asceticism has always seized 
 
 4'' I 
 
 .1 !■ 
 
 PARSEB cniLDUEN. 
 
 upon the head to make it bear witness to the principle of humilia- 
 tion. In Christian countries, the Friends and Shakers prescribe 
 icrtain rules for wearing thp hair and for the shape of the hat. 
 The Roman Catholic orders, regular and voluntary, do the sanu^ 
 thing, though not precisely in the same way. The Buddhist no 
 liss lli;m the Dominican requires the bare and shaven head. At 
 the very foundation of the Christian Church, Paul made it a point 
 "f discipline that man ought not to "cover his head," nor women 
 
 ^4 
 
486 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 :^- 
 
 I" 
 
 
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 ■85 
 
 ^^. 
 
 Hi ; 
 
 nt 
 
 til* 
 
 to we:iv " broidered hair." So rigid are the Parsees on the same 
 subject that it is not lawful for one of the sect, man, woman, or 
 child, to have an uncovered head within-doors or out-of-doors, bv 
 day or by night, awake or asleep. Perhaps this observation mav 
 not be thought entirely worthless, since it shows how inseparabh- 
 manners are allied to morals. The intelligent Parsee insists that 
 he worships not the sun nor iirc, but that he adores one Supreme 
 Spiritual God, though he admits that he reveres fire and the sun 
 as an identical manifestation of the Deity. He does not claim, Iiom-- 
 cver, that the unenlightened members of the sect make, or are capa- 
 ble of making, this distinction. It is certain that every evcnitir.', 
 wherever we may be, whether on the strand or on the terrace, we 
 see the Parsee stop, stand still, and stretch forth his hands to tlie 
 retiring god of day, in a posture of devout adoration. The Parsee 
 temples are singularly plain. They contain nothing which is es- 
 teemed sacred except the fires which burn on the altars, and wliicli, 
 according to their belief, have never been extinguished. Thoir reli- 
 gion does not forbid animal food, nor are they divided into castes. 
 but the sect has uaconsciously taken upon itself the Asiatic idea of 
 excluding women from society, and the Hindoo practice of prema- 
 ture marriage. Notwithstanding their accommodation in tliis 
 respect to the customs of those around them, Parsees are more 
 intelligent, inquiring, and enterprising, than any other class of j 
 society in the East. In all foreign countries, they bear the charac- 
 ter of honorable and liberal merchants. Here, where they arc nt 
 home, their honor is sometimes questioned, but their enterprise U 
 universally conceded. Their light complexion and regular features 
 prove them to be of a higher Caucasian type than the Hindoos. 
 
 In our drive yesterday, we passed a gate which disclosed an 
 open area filled with the blaze of Hindoo pyres. "VYe stopped to 
 inquire into the form of the ceremony. Religion as well as ciistoia 
 requires that the nearest of kin shall apply the torch and watcli 
 the flames. The devout Bramin does not doubt that tins aet of 
 piety performed by a son secures an instant opening of the i];ati> 
 of paradise to the departed parent. They tell us that until lately 
 these burning ghauts were open on all sides, that they were fouiul 
 
MODES OF BURIAL. 
 
 4s; 
 
 offensive, and that the British Government made strenuous eflbrts 
 to induce tlie Bramin to discontinue the practice of rcmation, or 
 at least to remove the scene to a more secluded place. The only 
 change, however, which could be secured, was the consent that a 
 wall might be erected around the ghaut. 
 
 A large enclosure adjoins the ghauts. It is a Mohammedan 
 cemetery. Their monuments and graves are not unlike our own. 
 Last of all, we came to the Parsee's home of the dead. It is a hill, 
 enclosed with a very high wall. On the summit there is a dense 
 (jrove of lofty palms ; in the centre of this grove, and high above its 
 foliage, rises the " Tower of Silence." The tower encloses and pro- 
 tects a dark, deep, open well, and across the top of the tower is a 
 tlrmly-fixed grating of iron bars. The dead body is laid upon this 
 iron grate, the flesh to bo the food of the birds of the air; the bones, 
 lis they fall asunder from exposure and decay, to drop into the pro- 
 miscnons pit below. The Parsee who was our guide protests that 
 this giving up the remains of friends and kindred to the vulture, 
 the eagle, and the raven, seems horrible to him ; wherefore, when he 
 was not long ago called upon to deposit the remains first of a wife, 
 then of a daughter, he protected them with a strong metallic screen, 
 so that the remains were left to natural decomposition from the 
 sacred heat of the sun, and were absorbed in the pure atmosphere 
 which he enlightens. We, of course, commended this refinement 
 of his, although, to our minds, the truest mode of disposing of the 
 body from which the spirit has departed is " earth to earth, ashes 
 to ashes, dust to dust." 
 
 April \A:th. — When in ^Northern India, we hastened our journey 
 as much as possible to meet Admiral Cockburn, who had tele- 
 graphed us that he was waiting with the Forte, to convey Mr. 
 Seward and his party up the Persian Gulf. On our arrival here, 
 all classes of Europeans, Americans, and natives alike, protested 
 that the season is too far advanced. As it so often happens at such 
 times, travellers and letters have come down from Muscat, dcscrib- 
 inii; the heat there as absolutely frightfid. They add that the small- 
 pox is raging throughout the country, that a famine is extensively 
 
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 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 
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 prevailing, and finally that insurrection and civil war have brolcen 
 out. Admiral Cockburn, prudent as he is generous, has been de- 
 terred by these representations. Under his advice, therefore, we 
 have relinquished the cherished purpose of visiting Muscat, Bagdad 
 and the ruins of Nineveh and Babylon. 
 
 • "VVe must pass by the many recherche entertainments given us 
 by British residents in their beautiful villas on Malabar Hill, a 
 place worth a graphic description. 
 
 But if we neglect contemporaries, we cannot afford to be thought- 
 less of the ancients. Yesterday we made a steam-yacht excursion 
 in the harbor, with several Indies and gentlemen, among them the 
 eminent Mahratta physician and scholar, Dr. Bluiu Daji. The sail 
 disclosed to us the beautiful environs of Bombay, especially the 
 harbor and islands. The landing at Elephanta Island is represented 
 by travellers as very difficult, but the Duke of Edinburgh was here, 
 and, of course, the caves of Elephanta must be shown, at whatever 
 cost, to the scion of England's royal line. In this emergency, the 
 municipality of Bombay issued bonds and erected a convenient pier. 
 We, alien republicans, now landed on that very wharf, not unmind- 
 ful of our obligations to the Council of Bombay, or of our good 
 fortune in coming after, and not before, Victoria's sailor son. We 
 ascended an easy flight of stone steps to a plateau one hundred and 
 fifty feet above the sea. This esplanade as well as the entire island 
 is deeply shaded with the beautiful, round-topped Palmyra palm. 
 A decrepit Irish soldier, with his family, in a bamboo sliantv, 
 thatched with banana and palm leaves, keeps watch and ward over 
 the place. Passing to the centre of the plateau and turning to the 
 right, we confronted a work of human art, gigantic and marvelous. 
 It is a subterranean temple. The builders, beginning half-way up 
 the mountain declivity, and cutting down perpendicularly, have 
 removed the mountain-face to the depth of thirty feet, and to the 
 width of three hundred feet. The perpendicular wall thus disclosed 
 is of basalt. This rock, they have hewn and chiselled away to the 
 very centre of the mountain, and wrought it into a temple with 
 perfect architectural forms and just proportions. The excavatioa 
 consists of four chambers, the central one is majestic with gateways, 
 
1 war have brolcen 
 ous, has been de- 
 dee, therefore, we 
 g Muscat, Bagdad, 
 
 ainments given us 
 1 Malabar Hill, a 
 
 [ford to be thougbt- 
 im-yaelit excursion 
 I, among them the 
 iiiu Daji. The sail 
 'bay, especially the 
 sland is represented 
 Idinburgh was here, 
 shown, at whatever 
 this emergency, the 
 d a convenient pier, 
 wharf, not unmind- 
 ay, or of our good 
 ia's sailor son. We 
 fiu one hundred and 
 
 as the entire island 
 3ped Palmyra palm. 
 
 a bamboo sliantv, 
 vatch and ward over 
 1 and turning to the 
 mtic and marvelous. 
 [Tinning half-way up 
 jrpendicularly, have 
 lirty feet, and to the 
 ir wall thus disclosed 
 jhiselled away to the 
 
 into a temple with 
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 abutments, porches, columns, pilasters, cornices, and vaulted ceil- 
 ings, as complete and perfect as if, instead of having been carved in 
 the rock, they had been detached from it, framed and erected on 
 the ground. While no architectural element is omitted, all are per- 
 fectly finished. The broad pavement is as level and smooth as tluit 
 of the rotunda at Washington. The ceiling needs no preparation to 
 receive either fresco or gilding. The dome is spherical, while the 
 columns upon which it rests, or seems to rest, have regular basts, 
 bands, llutings, and capitals, though all alike are shaped from tlie 
 undisturbed rock. We even thought it necessary to examine the 
 lintels of the doors to see if they were not detached pieces of tlio 
 rock itself. Standing in the porch or Avithin the temple, and look- 
 ing inward, you confront the farther wall. In its centre, a deep 
 recess twenty feet square, reaching from floor to roof, is tjurniounted 
 by a bold arch. Within this recess is a colossal figure, or combina- 
 tion of figures, the triune god : Brahma representing the creative 
 power, Vishnu the preserving power, and Siva the destroyini,^ 
 power. Each of the figures is twice the human size. Eralima is 
 looking forward in an attitude of calmness and contemplation ; at 
 his feet is a crouching lion. Vishnu rests on a bed of lot'io -flowers. 
 Siva in one hand wields a drawn sword, and in the other holds a 
 cobra ready to strike. The gigantic group is completed l»y the 
 accessories of dwarfs and inferior gods. The ceiling of the r&^ess is 
 decorated with a crowd of not less than fifty or sixty figures, sucii 
 as, if found in a Christian temple, would be taken as represeiitinir 
 angels. Eveiy figure within the niche has a distinctive character, 
 and is not deficient in force. But this group within the recess is 
 only one group, thfe entire temple being a gallery full of like 
 statuary. On either side of the principal hall or temple are lesser 
 chambers or chapels, and the walls of these are covered with a]k=- 
 gorical works, illustrating the transformations, incantations, battles, 
 triumphs, marriages, and miracles of the several members of tlie 
 Braminical trinity. It is the opinion of Dr. Bhau Daji that this 
 temple was excavated about twelve liundred years ago. No won. 
 der that it remains complete in its forms and proportions ! >'u 
 storm can penetrate it, and no flood can invaJe it. Even the eartk- 
 
CAVES OF ELEPIIANTA. 
 
 401 
 
 (|ualce has spared it. Not so the demon of religious zeal. The in- 
 tolerant followers of the liilse prophet mutilated these heathen faces 
 and forms in the fourteenth century, and the no less fanatical Por- 
 tuguese, who came in the wake of the Mohammedans, finding the 
 task of defacing with the hammer too slow, brought a battery 
 (u cannon to the temple-door, and battered the stone gods. What 
 hiiinan sentiment is so strong as that of devotion ? The passions 
 of love, hate, and pride, have covered the surface of tlie earth with 
 their monuments. But here, in this cave of Elephanta, devotion 
 lias written its sublimest faith in the very centre of the earth it- 
 self ! The chamber which is at the right of the temple, as you 
 look inward, contains a spring of pure, ever-flowing water. The 
 Bramins think it possesses a healing virtue, and it is among their 
 fond conceits that the purifying water comes through a subterrane- 
 ous passage from the Ganges. However this may be, the Irish 
 custodian of tii? temple assured us that it is the " sv. atest wather 
 for dhrinking hi all India." When we looked at his suspicious 
 blackened eye and damaged nose, we regretted for his sake that he 
 does not confine himself to " that same." 
 
 The cave-temple of Elephanta is by no means a solitary monu- 
 ment. There are two others scarcely less spacious and elaborate 
 on the same small island. In other parts of this coast, as well as 
 in Ceylon, there are not only excavated temples of Brahma, but 
 also of Buddha, of dimensions so vast and execution so marvellous 
 as to throw these of Elephanta into the shade. 
 
 m 
 
CHAPTER XVI. 
 
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 ^iV EXCURSION TO GO A. 
 
 A Voyage on the Coast of Malabar. — A Perilous Predicament. — Dubious Navigalinn,— 
 Situation of CJoa. — Official Courtesies. — History of Goa. — The Old City. — St Fiiuicis 
 Xavier. — Miraculous Cures. — Character of Xavicr. — Public Institutions. — Tin; (ioy. 
 crnor's Villa. — Historical Reminiscences. — A Goa Poet. — A Cordial Farewell. 
 
 Of the Coast of Malabar, April 19, 1871. — "We weve in u strait 
 on Friday last. An excursion down this coast to ancient Goa, tlio 
 first eifectivc European settlement in India, and always the c'ii])itiil 
 of the Portuguese Indian possessions, promised a pleasure not to lie 
 lost, and seemed a study not io be omitted. But Mr. Seward liad 
 engaged to dine with the Byculla Club of Bombay to-morrow, and 
 the semi-weekly packet to Goa could not be relied upon. Witli 
 twenty-four hours' knowledge of this dilemma, the Govei'nnient 
 fitted out a revenue-cutter lying in commission. The captain wa? 
 unacquainted with the route, and an extra one was appointed; 
 crew, furniture, and provisions, were extemporized, and, to make 
 assurance of an exact return doubly sure, we sailed on Saturday at 
 sunset. 
 
 The Camel, besides her proper British colors, was courte- 
 ously invested with the stars and stripes, and we were accom- 
 panied by Mr. Farnham, the United States consul. Proceeding 
 merrily, with a speed of eight knots, we began to inquire about 
 dinner and sleeping arrangements. Sea-sickness came earlier than 
 dinner. The cabins were spacious enough, but unavailable. The 
 
ARRIVAL AT GOA. 
 
 403 
 
 —Dubious Navigation,— 
 le Old City. — St Fnimis 
 Institutions. — Tin; (!(iv- 
 . Cordial Tarcwcll. 
 
 iiVc wove in a btrait 
 \,o ancient Goa, the 
 always tlic capital 
 jleasure not to lie 
 at Mr. Seward had 
 )ay to-morrow, and 
 elied upon. "NVitli 
 the Govei-nment 
 The captain wa? 
 e was appointed; 
 ized, and, to make 
 ed on Saturday at 
 
 'olors, was courte- 
 d we were accom- 
 nsul. Proceeding 
 to inquire about 
 ? came earlier thnit 
 unavailable. The 
 
 vessel sat low in the water, and the ports were necessarily closed, 
 the thermometer standing at ninety dt»<;rees. Cabins were impro- 
 vised on deck by means of ilup])ing sails. These ])rivations gave 
 the voyage something of the zest of a picnic, and we endured 
 them with the resolution to enjoy discomforts, usually practised on 
 such occasions. 
 
 Our double captaincy unanimously decided, the night being 
 dark, that wo should push directly out to sea. We pushed so far 
 that it was not until noon on Sunday that we came back in sight 
 (•f land. We proceeded until nightfall in full view of the Western 
 (irhants. Nt>twithstanding the loss of time during the previous 
 night, we found ourselves on Sunday noon so fir advanced that 
 our Siamese captain determined to " slow down," that is to say, 
 "slaeken up," so as to avoid reaching Goa before daylight the next 
 morning. With the pleasing intimation that we should leave 
 the ship at sunrise, wc retired to our mattresses at nine o'clock, the 
 crumbling Portuguese forts on the Goa "hore looming up on the 
 coast, and the disdained Bombay packet just l)efore us, leading the 
 way. Our sleep was "murdered" by a mutiny among the crew, 
 which was only quelled when the leader was tied up at the fore- 
 castle. Monday's dawn, instead of the summons to go ashore, 
 brought blank consternation ! We were not at anchor in the har- 
 bor, but once more afloat on the sea, no land in sight, neither of 
 our navigator^ knew where, and, stranger still, neither knew how 
 wc came there. Sunrise gave not only light but an unmistakable 
 object to steer by. Joy radiated from the faces of the captains ; and, 
 tor ourselves, nothing but our early training in the first of the 
 ten commandments which came down from Sinai, prevented us 
 from becoming Parsces and worshipping the fiery orb on the spot. 
 We steered due east, and the first land-mark showed that we had 
 left Goa twenty miles behind. We made it, however, though not 
 without peril from hidden rocks, at eleven o'clock in the morning. 
 If tl^e gallant officers who had been waiting for us twelve long 
 hours, in their tight, uncomfortable uniforms, were surprised to sec 
 us coming through a dangerous southern channel, as if from Mau- 
 ritius, instead of the safe northern one from Bombay, their aston- 
 
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 isliment did not exceed that of our two commanders, who until this 
 very time are unable to account for their error of navigation. Tlie 
 native pilot, they say, disobeyed their directions ; " there was sud- 
 denly a strong outward current unknown in this sea before ; " more- 
 over, " there is indicated in the chart just there an iron mountain, 
 which deflected the needle ; " moreover and furthermore, '• the 
 ship's compass, useless in harbor movements, had not been ad- 
 Justed for this outside navigation." 
 
 Two rivers, the Narwar and the Mormugoa, form a deep 
 estuary, and the island of Goa, upon which the town is built, rises 
 out of this estuary very nnich like Manhattan Island at the conflu- 
 ence of the Hudson and East Rivers in the bay of New York. The 
 green banks of both rivers are crowned with fortiiications, which 
 are \»ell preserved, and with churches and convents, none of wliich 
 are dilapidated, but of which some have been converted to secular 
 uses. 
 
 On reaching the bar we were boarded by the officer of the port, 
 and delaved until the fort on shore delivered a salute in honor of 
 Mr. Seward. Our flags dipped in acknowledgment, and an hour 
 later we came to anchor before a quaint and picturesque little city. 
 An extensive fortification standing immediately on the wharf is now 
 the palace of the governor-general. The Iniildings, unique tliouali 
 })lain, seem to speak from their open windows and graceful bal- 
 conies a hospitable welcome. An infantry battalion was drawn up 
 on the esplanade, and the river-shores were crowded with a swarthy 
 but well-dressed and gentle-looking people. Mr. Seward was con- 
 veyed by the g( vernor-gcnerars staff in a well-manned barge to 
 the other shore, where he was welcomed by the Secretary of State, 
 and received with military honors. The band employed on this 
 occasion, although it consists exclusively of natives, excels any wo 
 have heard in India. Western arts and customs eeem capricious 
 in taking root in these strange countries. On our journey tn 
 Peking, we noticed that the band of Admiral Rodgers's flag-ship 
 was composed chiefly of dark natives of Goa. They e.xcciitod 
 better than any other performers the " Charta," as they called the 
 beautiful national air of Portugal. Associated as it is in our rcc- 
 
PRESENT CONDITION OF GOA. 
 
 405 
 
 5, who imtil tills 
 ivigation. The 
 ' there was siul- 
 bcfore ; " moro- 
 i iron moimtaiii, 
 fthennore, '' the 
 id not been ad- 
 
 ta, form a deep 
 v\-n is built, rises 
 ind at the conilu- 
 New York. The 
 i-tiiications, which 
 its, none of which 
 .verted to sccidar 
 
 officer of the port. 
 salute in honor of 
 lent, and an hour 
 urcsque little city. 
 n the wharf is now 
 gs, nnique though 
 and graceful bal- 
 lion was drawn up 
 cd with a swarthy 
 r. Seward was cou- 
 i-nianned barge to 
 Secretary of State, 
 employed on thi? 
 ives, excels any we 
 us ceem capricious 
 )n our journey to 
 Rodgers's flag-ship 
 They executed 
 as they called the 
 as it is in our rec- 
 
 ollections of those cold and tedious travels, it was peculiarly pleas- 
 ing when that noble hymn burst upon us from the instruments of a 
 full band of the same sympathetic race, in their own tropical home. 
 
 Captain Major's family, the only American one residing here, 
 divided the care of our entertainment with the governor-general, 
 the Viscount de Sao Januario. 
 
 The Goa where we were received so kindly is only by deriva- 
 tion the Goa of history. Ancient Goa stood eight miles higher, on 
 the same left bank of the Narwar. Founded by Albuquer(]ue, the 
 most renowned of all the Portuguese admirals, after Vasco de Gama, 
 it was laid out on an imperial scale, and surrounded by a Avail and 
 fortifications, which rendered it for more than a century impregna- 
 ble. An immense population gathered there. It contained the mag- 
 nificent palace of the viceroy, the college, the hospital, the archiepis- 
 copal see and the halls of the Inquisition, while on every attractive 
 height was built a church, monasterv, convent, or chdicau. Armies 
 two hundred thousand strong were repelled from its walls, and 
 imposing embassies from the barbaric kings and ju'inees of the East 
 trod its spacious and shaded streets. One hundred and fifty years 
 auo, it was found to be unhealthful and was abandoned. Altliou<rh 
 life has since disappeared from that once-busy stage, some remnants 
 (if its activity and glory remain. AVe proceeded in carriages over a 
 firm and well-preserved causeway, which once resounded with the 
 tramp of pageants and of armies, to the ruined city. By the road- 
 side and in the neighboring jungie, moss-covered monumental 
 crosses, decorated daily by pious hands with fresh flowers, indicate 
 scenes of violence and suflering, perhaps of miracles or martyrdom, 
 enacted here. Cocoa-nut groves and mango-orchards now shade 
 grounds once covered by bazaars and hostclries. Here and there 
 a deserted palace, closed but not yet in ruins, testifies of wealth and 
 luxury passed away, and the curious touri t is warned not to pene- 
 trate its mouldering courts and tangled gardens, lest he come un- 
 aware upon the most venomous serpents of India. Of a hundred 
 religious houses, only one convent remains, and that has a lone 
 sisterhood of three nuns. A high, arched gate, overgrown with 
 creepers, is all that exists of the viceregal palace. AVliilc the col- 
 
496 
 
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 lege and hospital have been renewed in the new town, liappily no 
 trace of the Inquisition remains in either city. The Government 
 has kept the cathedral and churches in repair. Tliey are built in 
 the style of the sixteenth century, and, though fine structures, they 
 arc less imposing and costly than the churches built by the Spaniards 
 of the same period in Mexico and South America. They are, never- 
 theless, far superior to religious edifices in the United States. 
 
 The Church of Bom Jesus contains tlie tomb of St. Francis 
 Xavier. It will be remembered that he was associated with Igna- 
 tius Loyola in establishing the Society of Jesus, and that he came 
 out on his apostolate to India, even before the papal allowance of 
 the new order was granted. Perhaps this church was the first of 
 the many thousands which have arisen in all parts of the woild, 
 under the labors of that mysterious comnmnity which has been su 
 indomitable and indefatigable while encountering so many vicis?i- 
 tudes. The ma'jsoleum is an oblong pedestal of Carrara marble, 
 ten feet higli, panelled with bronze bas-reliefs, representing the 
 miracles of the saint. Upon this pedestal is a sarcophagus of gilded 
 copper, which contains the embalmed remains, and is enclosed in 
 an elaborately-wrought case of silver. The Grand-duke of Tus- 
 cany only expressed the reverence of Catholic Europe for Xavlor, 
 in presenting this exquisite monument to the Churchof the Jesuits, 
 which is so closely identified with his labors. The tomb stands in 
 a vaulted chamber, the walls of which are graced with admirable 
 devotional paintings, but unfortunately it is so small and dark tli;U 
 not only the pictures but the monument itself is deprived of its 
 just effect. The sarcophagus is opened at long intervals by jicr- 
 mis^ion of the King of l*ortugal, and on these occasions deserted 
 Goa is reanimated by hundreds of thousands of natives, assembled 
 from all parts of Asia. It may well be believed, as we are told. 
 that not only the fiiithful Catholics, but even the unconverted Hin- 
 doos, confidently expect supernatural effects tv> follow from tlie 
 Contact then allowed with the sacred remains. India is filled witli 
 traditions of the saint, and the Jesuit writers have carefully 
 collected, collated, and published them. According to these tradi- 
 tions, St. Francis Xavier not only relieved the poor with money 
 
TOMB OF ST. FRANCIS XAVIER. 
 
 497 
 
 ■n, liappib' "^ 
 3 Government 
 
 ey arc built in 
 
 cructures, tliey 
 
 r tlie Spaniards 
 
 hey are, never- 
 
 d States. 
 
 of St. Francis 
 
 atcd with Igna- 
 
 id that he came 
 
 al allowance of 
 
 was the first of 
 
 ts of the world, 
 
 lich has been so 
 
 so many vicissi- 
 
 Carrara marble, 
 
 I'epresenting tlio 
 
 »phagus of gilded 
 
 id is enclosed in 
 
 nd-dnhc of Tus- 
 
 irope for Xavler, 
 
 •ch of the Jesuit?. 
 
 ^e tomb stands in 
 
 with admirable 
 
 lull and dark that 
 
 deprived of its 
 
 intervals by per- 
 
 iccasions dcsertcil 
 
 atives, assembled 
 
 , as we arc told, 
 
 mconverted 11 in- 
 
 follow from the 
 
 India is filled ^vitll 
 
 ■s have carehdly 
 
 ng to these tradi- 
 
 )oor with money 
 
 brougbt out from the depths of the sea, healed the sick, made 
 the dumb to speak, cured the lame and blind, cast out devils, 
 and raised the dead, by simple invocation of the mercy of God, 
 hut he performed more of those miracles than the Gospels record 
 (it the Saviour, and his chosen twelve apostles. A resident of 
 (k):i, reliable for intelligence and candor, told us that, when the 
 sarcophagus was last opened, a lady well-known to him became the 
 subject of a supposed miracle. Having been hopelessly lame from 
 birth, she solicited parental leave to attend the ceremony and 
 touch the venerated dead. Her skeptical parents refused ; she 
 per' isted, and in the moment of contact she became whole, and so 
 remains. Our informant of course ascribes this extraordinary cure 
 to the influence of her excited imagination. 
 
 But the homage paid to the memory of Xavier may well be 
 I'egarded without cavil or regret even by those whose education 
 obliges them to reject his alleged miracles. He surpassed his sj^ir- 
 itual contemporaries in faith, hope, charity, patience, courage, zeal, 
 and perseverance. lie committed no crime, inculged no vices, and 
 though he tcdera^.ed African slavery and the Inquisition in the East, 
 it must bo remembered they were the errors of his tiuie, and he was 
 less severe against the recusants of the Church than in self-condem- 
 nation. Jt was his noble maxim that the Gospel is advanced more 
 1)}' the blood of martyrs than by the sweat of missionaries. ITc 
 found India wholly a pagan and Mohammedan land, and by his 
 teacliing and example, using neitlier force nor fraud, he made more 
 ('hristian converts than can be found on Indian soil at the present 
 day. It was not, however, for St. Francis Xavier, nor the Jesuits, 
 nor the Catholic Church of tlie sixteenth century, to bring India 
 and the East into Christian civilizat'on. It must be sadly admitted 
 that this renuiius yet to be done. It is to be hoped, however, that 
 tlio great work has begun in the hund)le schools for native men and 
 women which have been opened mnler missionary auspices in 
 various parts of the country. 
 
 A dinner at the palace closed the day. Although it was at- 
 tended by the i)rovincial court, and supported by a military band, 
 it was animated and cordial. The governor was elocjuent in his 
 
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 admiration of the United States. A tlirone, wliicli stands in tliu 
 grand salon, altliougli it lias no occupant — tlic viceregal dignitv 
 having been abolished — is still respected on state occasions. AVliiU 
 interested ns more were the (jueer old portraits of viceroys, gov- 
 ernors, generals, admirals, and missionaries. Need I say that wc 
 carefully studied the lineaments of Yasco de Gama, Dias, Cabral. 
 Alureyda, Albuquerque, of Xavier and Loyola? An artistic per- 
 formance of Chopin by a young secretary enchained us until a lato 
 hour. 
 
 On the 18th we visited the public institutions. The military 
 force consists of two battalions of artillery arid two of infanti-v. 
 maintained at an annual cost of two hundred thousand dollars. 
 These seem quite enough for a territory of only a thousand 
 square miles, with a population of four hundred thousand. The 
 military academy trains one hundred and fifty cadets, throiiirli 
 a seven years' course. The garrison barracks and httspital arr 
 excellent. AVe looked into the finance department. The reve- 
 nue is nx hundred thousand dollars. The salaries are low, and 
 there is no complaint of taxes. The college of science and nicili 
 cine is conducted by eleven professors, several of whom are natives 
 of Goa, and is well attended. There are four newspapers, three ut 
 which are conducted by natives, and all in the Portuguese languaac. 
 One-third of *'.e population is Tloman Catholic, the rest are Hin- 
 doos, Mahrattas, and Mohammedans. The good order and perfect 
 cleanl'uess which pervade the little city explain the curious fa t 
 that ii supplies the foreign residents of all India with their 1)cv-t 
 household servants. 
 
 "\Vc drove with the governor to his suburban villa on the mm- 
 mit of the cape wliich divides the two rivers. The j)al;ice w.s 
 formerly a monastery. Its chapels are now reception-rooms aid 
 Innqueting-halls. Its cloisters arc card and billiard monis. Tl:c 
 garden supi)lying vegetables, fruits, and fiowers, is still retainc*!. 
 The site Avas chosen with the customary sagacity of religions com- 
 munities, who seldom fail to find material comforts while tliov se- 
 cure the solitude needfid for meditation, and natural associatiitr.s 
 which sustain enthusiasm. The ]ilace is not less adajited to \\> 
 
THE STORY OF GO A. 
 
 409 
 
 present use. There could be no more refreshing retreat from the 
 stagnant air and burning heat of the city \lian this breezy, rocky 
 clilf, which breaks the ocean-tides, while it looks down upon the 
 okl town and the new, half buried in i)ahiis, mangos, and cypresses, 
 and far up the primeval river-channels to their sourcec in the moun- 
 tains, which are lost in the horizon. Our minds M-oro croM'ded, in 
 the hours we passed on the turreted veranda, with the thoughts of 
 the events which had happened beneath it : of Camoens and his 
 romantic career ; how, crossed in love at home, he came to this far- 
 off and misty East to make by adventure a name with which to 
 return and wed the maiden with the " sweetest eyes were ever 
 seen ;" how, after shipwreck and amid privations and persecutions, 
 he wrote here his " Lusiad," and then returned to l.iS native land, 
 only to finJ his mistress dead, and to die himself, of a broken heart, 
 n\ an almshouse. We thought of the arrival of armed fleets from 
 Lisbon, in the now quiet bay ; of the building and fortification of a 
 ffreat city ; of native armies gathered in siege around it — of the 
 brave and chivalrous defenders Avho defeated and dispersed them ; 
 of the expedition of squadrons for the conquest of Aden and Ormus, 
 in the Arabian Sea ; of Malacca, the key of the Sea of China, and 
 of tlio i\Iohiccas in the xVrchipelago, and of their triumphant return 
 laden with sjjoils ; of the homeward dispatch of argosies loaded with 
 spices, pearls of Ceylon, and diamonds of Golconda; of the coming 
 in of tlio humble Jesuit missionaries, their fortunes and their fate, 
 sometimes received with affection and gratitude, and often meeting 
 tlie martyr's crown ; of the baptism of whole tribes, provinces, and 
 nations ; of their subsequent relapse into their primitive idol-wor- 
 ship; of the enterprise of the colonists on land and sea, extending 
 the fame and sway of Portugal, always brilliant, but ending in de- 
 feat and overthrow at last, when thcv came into collision with 
 European rivals equally andutious and stronger than themselves. 
 This, wliich is the story of Goa, is also the history of Portuguese 
 colonization. Of the vast cni})ire which Portugal established in 
 hoth hemispheres on the track of tlie great discoverers, there re- 
 main now only this little province of (ioa, in India; the already 
 decaying city of Macao, in China ; and the yet barbarian colonies 
 
 in 
 
500 
 
 BKITISII INDIA. 
 
 
 •A. 
 
 
 of St. Paul (le Loando, and Mozambique, in Africa. Portugal won 
 that empire bravely, she improved it as she could with the light 
 she enjoyed, and she lost it chivalrously. Tlie nations which 
 have proHted by her discoveries and conquests will not deny her 
 honor and sympathy. 
 
 An early dinner at Captain Major's was attended by the tjov- 
 ernor-gencral and other officers of the state, including M. Eiberio, 
 a poet of whom it is said we are likely to hear more, through some 
 translations by Longfellow. 
 
 The hour of five, the first in which tide would serve, had been 
 appointed for our departure. Mr. Seward, as usual, was procecdiuir 
 promptly to the wharf, but was detained for a parting demonstra- 
 tion. The governor addressed him with emotion ; Mr. Seward re- 
 plied with equal feeling. The military saluted him, and then the 
 barge convoyed us to our familiar deck. Even when the last of the 
 forts had dipped its flag and fired its farewell guns, and the settini: 
 sun had left us o y the hazy twilight of the tropics, signals were 
 rftill seen waving adieux from the palace balconies and from the 
 wliarf. "Whatever else of the ancient Portuguese character mm- 
 have passed aM^ay witl> the decline of imperial power, the element 
 of chivalrous courtesy certainly remains. 
 
 The crew of the Camel L now obedient. The Hindoo hchns- 
 nian steers faithfully, the ocean-currents flow smoothly, the iron 
 mountain no longer diverts the needle, while the comp:iss h;b 
 l)een satisfactorily adjusted. Our captaincy is pleased with itself 
 and with us. We are equally satisfied, and go to our rest with the 
 Bombay light shining brightly before us. Goa has been gained, 
 and the I>yculla Club is not " going to be disappointed.'' 
 
 
. Portugal won 
 Id with the light 
 3 nations wliicli 
 all not deny hor 
 
 tided by the gov- 
 iding M. Riherio, 
 ^re, through some 
 
 d serve, had been 
 al, was proceeding 
 •arting dcmonstra- 
 n ; Mr, Seward re- 
 him, and then tlie 
 rhen the last of the 
 ms, and the setting: 
 fopics, signals were 
 mies and from the 
 lesc character may 
 power, the element 
 
 'he Hindoo hclms- 
 snioothly, the iron 
 
 the compass \\'A> 
 pleased with itseU 
 Ito our rest with the 
 
 has been gained, 
 pointed."' 
 
 CHAPTER XYII. 
 
 LAST BAYS IN BOMBAY. 
 
 The BycuUa Club. — Mr. Seward's Speech. — Ilis Grateful Acknowledgments to his Enter- 
 taincrs. — The Indies of the East and the Indies of the West. — Growing Civilization 
 of the East. — A Proj^ress Irresistible. — The New Concord. — Policy of the Anglo- 
 Saxon Race. — Miss Wcssner. — Departure from Bombay. 
 
 Bombay, Aiyril 21s^ — The Byculla Club is less a local society 
 of Bombay than an association of the gentlemen who are engaged in 
 the military and civil service throughout India. Not only Ameri- 
 cans, but foreigners of all the Western nations, fraternize cordially 
 in its circle. ^ 
 
 Its spacious and elegant rooms, highly illuminated, w^ere filled 
 last night, and the entertainment was attended by all the members 
 in the city and many ladies. 
 
 The Honorable Sir M. R. "Wcstropp, Chief-Justice of Bombay, 
 presided, and spoke of Mr. Seward's public life. Mr. Seward re- 
 plied as follows : 
 
 " I have been more than once heretofore kindly invited to meet 
 societies in Asia, but those privileges were lost by reason either of 
 fatigue, or some other exigency of travel. I have, therefore, 
 accepted this courtesy of yours, as a social welcome tendered me by 
 the Europeans residing in India, while at the same time my prepa- 
 rations for an early departure oblige me to take my final leave of 
 the East here. Having learned much and enjoyed more, I am 
 opprer^sed with many grateful thoughts, though the time scarcely 
 
 33 
 
 
502 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
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 serves for a full utterance of one. When the spring fills up, how- 
 ever, we must choose the vent through which the stream shall flow. 
 First, I must thank you sincerely, profoundly, for bringing nic to 
 an acfjuaintance M'ith your enlightened and spirited association 
 for bestowing upon me the honor of its membership, and for 
 giving me this felicitous expression of its elegant and generous 
 hospitality. I have been frequently asked, " What do you think 
 of Bombay ? " I answer now : " The Byculla Club is a just expo- 
 nent of a great and growing Oriental metropolis." Two hundred 
 years ago this magnificent bay came to a King of England as the 
 dowr}^ of a Portuguese princess. Who could then have foreseen 
 that, under British rule, it would become the gate of the East, the 
 Constantinople of a new historical era? Yet, this high destiny is 
 one of the assured and immediate results of the Suez Canal. I 
 shall, indeed, continue my past endeavors to hasten on a ship-canal 
 across the Isthmus of Darien — a work which can hardly fail to give 
 new importance to queenly Calcutta. But India is a vast coun- 
 try, and can maintain two great commercial cities, as the world 
 already has need of two interoceanic channels of commerce. 
 
 " Gentlemen, I owe manifold acknowledgments outside the 
 Byculla Club. Please suffer me to make them here ; to his excel- 
 lency the viceroy, and many members of the Council of India— to 
 the authorities of Madras, Bengal, the Northwest Province?, the 
 Central Provinces, the Punjab and Bombay — to the Maharajahs of 
 Benares and Putteeala, and to manv other native statesmen and 
 scholars — for attentions which have made my travels in India 
 equally a tour of pleasure and an interesting study. If I could 
 think it possible that what I may novv* say could pass the confines 
 of British India, I would add not less grateful acknowledgments to 
 the Portuguese authorities of ancient Goa, the authorities of the 
 vigorous Straits Settlement, and the government of the i.iarvellouslv 
 fruitful Netherlands Indies, as well as the native governments of 
 just awakening China and Japan. Thus far in a journey round 
 the world, I have had the pleasant part of St. Paul's experience on 
 his voyage from Joppa to Rome : ' So when this was done, othei'3 
 also came, who also honored us with many honors.' 
 
MR. SEWARD'S SPEECH. 
 
 503 
 
 ng fills np, liow- 
 trcam sliall flow. 
 L' bringing nic to 
 rited association, 
 bersliip, and for 
 nt and generous 
 lat do you tliink 
 lb is a just expo- 
 " Two Innulrcd 
 of England as tlie 
 icn liave foreseen 
 e of the East, the 
 his high destiny is 
 le Suez Canal. I 
 ten on a ship-canal 
 hardly fail to give 
 :lia is a vast coun- 
 'itics, as the world 
 ' commerce, 
 ments outside the 
 here ; to his excel- 
 ouncil of India— to 
 vest Provinces, the 
 the Maharajahs of 
 itive statesmen and 
 lY travels in India 
 ''study. It 1 could 
 Id pass the confines 
 ichnowlodgmcnts to 
 e authorities of the 
 of the Liarvellously 
 re governments of 
 in a journey round 
 'aul's experience on 
 [his was done, others 
 luors.' 
 
 \ 
 
 " Gentlemen, immediately after the Western discoveries of Co- 
 lumbus, and the Eastern discoveries of Vasco de Gama, a new and 
 significant, though inaccurate nomenclature obtained in geography. 
 Thc,world was at once divided into two parts : one, the old and well 
 known, the other, the newly-discovered or explored Indies, which 
 embraced nearly all of Asia, and the whole of America. 
 
 '• The old and well-known Western nations came suddenly under 
 a new and vast responsibility. This responsibility included noth- 
 ing less than a regeneration of an effete civilization in the so-called 
 Indies of Asia, and the establishment of an original civilization in 
 the so-called Indies of America. A profound sense of this respon- 
 sibility sustained the labors and shaped the characters of Coliind)us 
 and De Gama, of Chatham and Burke, of Washington and Jeffer- 
 son, of Xavier and Heber. Tell me not, therefore, that this re- 
 sponsibility is merely a conceit of an ardent imagination. 
 
 " It is, I trust, gentlemen, to a sympathy which exists betM^een 
 the now ruling classes of the East and my lountrymen, in this 
 elevated and humane sentiment, that I am indebted for this consid- 
 eration which it has given me so much pleasure to Rcknowledgc. 
 "We may well, gentlemen, cherish and cultivate it. It need not make 
 us one whit the less British, American, French, Portuguese, Italian, 
 Danish, German, Dutch, or whatever else we may have been, or 
 love to be, to accept the simple and sublime truth that comes down 
 lousas an instruction from the throne above, that whatever govern- 
 ments we may establish or maintain amid the debris of Asiatic 
 empires or in the chaos of America, those governments must be 
 established and maintained not alone nor chiefly for the advantage 
 of the foreign founders, but for the welfare and happiness of the 
 native races among whom they are founded. 
 
 " Despite skepticism, avarice, and reactionary resistance, civiliza- 
 tion in America, the Indies of the West, is a manifest success. I 
 am happy to declare, as the result of my observation, the conviction 
 that regeneration in Asia is equally proving itself to be a success. 
 There are, indeed, parts of Asia where Western ideas, principles, 
 and inventions, arc only tolerated with undissembled reluctance. 
 These are the rej^dons which were List reached by Europeans. But 
 
 :^ 
 
504 
 
 BRITISn INDIA. 
 
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 I know, on the other hand, those ideas, principles, and inventions 
 are accepted and embraced cordially in other portions of the East, 
 which have been more early and conveniently accessible. Witness 
 Japan, the coast and rivers of China, Java, Burmah, Madras, Bon- 
 gal, Goa, and Bombay. There modern civilization is triumphant. 
 Progress is irresistible. The inventions of steam, railroads, tele- 
 graphs, and missionary colleges and schools, have come in good 
 time to enable us to carry on that work of regeneration peacefullv 
 and humanely, which has so often been prosecuted blunderlnglv as 
 well as cruelly, with the aid of gunpowder. It cannot be long 
 before the British Government will be relieved of the necessity of 
 maintaining an Indian army to protect their possessions, and a 
 European army to watch the Indian one. 
 
 "You must have noticed, gentlemen, as I have, a new and 
 pleasing trait in the temper of our age, Europe does, indeed, ^till 
 remain a theatre of international jealousies and ambitions, but I 
 think all the nations of the "West have come at last to an harmoni- 
 ous agreement that European conflicts shall no longer be extended 
 into Asia, Polynesia, or America." (" Hear ! hear ! ") 
 
 "You like this new concord, gentleircu — I know the reason: 
 because it is the harbinger of peace and progress in the East. I 
 like it for the same reason, and also for another : it is the saving 
 ' Monroe doctrine ' of America. I am, of course, aware tliat the 
 assembly before whom I stand, and to whom I am so much indebt- 
 ed, consists largely of Britons. I am an American. Our nations 
 are severed — our extraction largely tlie same. The very work of 
 extending modern civilization in the two hemispheres, of wliiclj so 
 large a share of responsibility has devolved upon each natiou, has a 
 tendency, perhaps, to make us rivals. There are passionate and 
 prejudiced men in both countries who would aggravate this rivalry 
 into hatred, but such a temper is in any case insular and provin- 
 cial, and unworthy the matured genius of either nation. I am not 
 sentimental enough to rely on a distant consanguinity, which is 
 daily becoming more remote, as an enduring bond of friendship 
 between our two countries, but I have always seen that, situated as 
 they are, on opposite sides of a great ocean, equally dependent on a 
 
DEPARTURE FROM BOMBAY. 
 
 505 
 
 and inventions, 
 ions of the East, 
 issible. Witness 
 ab, Madras, Ben- 
 n is triumphant. 
 1, railroads, tele- 
 ve come in good 
 •ration peacefully 
 d bUinderhigly as 
 t cannot be long 
 f the necessity of 
 ^possessions, and a 
 
 have, a new and 
 3 does, indeed, .till 
 d ambitions, but 1 
 hxst to an harnioui- 
 lono-cr be extended 
 
 ear?") 
 
 laiow the reason : 
 •ess in the East. I 
 Lr: it is the saving 
 •se, aware that the 
 am so much indebt- 
 ■ican. Our nations 
 The very work of 
 [spheres, of whicl} so 
 ]n each nation, has a 
 are passionate and 
 Iggravate this rivalry 
 insular and provin- 
 jr nation. I am not 
 Isanguinity, whicli is 
 bond of friendsliip 
 [seen that, situated as 
 iially dependent on a 
 
 peaceful commerce with the whole world, spealving- the same lan- 
 guage, and holding the same religious faith, equally educated above 
 the powers and blandishments of despotism, and conscious of their 
 common responsibility in regard to universal progress, the welfare 
 and happiness of each demand that they shall be friends, and man- 
 Iv'ind cannot consent to their alienation. Far from thinlcing that 
 the Anglo-Saxon race, so proudly and happily advanced, will fall 
 into internecine conflict now or hereafter, I, on the contrary, 
 steadfastly believe that neither of its two great branches will 
 lose any thing of power or prestige while their colonies are 
 increasing, multiplying, and replenishing the waste places of the 
 globe. 
 
 "My parting words to you, gentlemen, therefore, are: Let mu- 
 tual respect and cordial friendship prevail between Great Britain 
 and the United States of America, until British scorn of arbitrary 
 government and American love of educated liberty shall encircle 
 the earth ! " 
 
 April 22d. — It is a day of leave-taking, and a busy one. A 
 large representation of the intellectual society of Bombay, not only 
 British, Americans, and Continental Europeans, have been with us, 
 but also Parsees, Mohammedans, and Hindoos. All alike express 
 their sympathies with Mr. Seward, and their appreciation of the 
 sentiments he uttered the day before yesterday. 
 
 While we were at Shan^'^hai, Miss Wessner, a Bavarian lady, 
 then travelling in that country, gave an interesting account of her 
 journey to Peking. When we returned to that capital, she had 
 gone to Java. All the way hither she has been flitting away just 
 before us, but we have failed to overtake her. To-day the bird was 
 caught, and a pleasing acquaintance established. She exhibits 
 great force of character in making alone an exploration of the 
 world, which is universally thought to require masculine energy. 
 Just at the moment of making this friendship, which promises so 
 much, we are grieved with the intelligence of tho death of a friend, 
 and our countrywoman, Alice Gary ; not leis gifted than true, 
 brave, and womanly. 
 
 Ml! 
 
CHAPTER XYIII. 
 
 • .IS 
 
 «S:. 
 
 1 
 
 1* 
 
 -] 
 
 11 
 
 I), 
 
 M 
 
 ^■' 
 
 
 
 if7?0Jf 50J/£^ 1' TO ADEN. 
 
 Once more at Sea. — The Steamer Dcccan. — Mr. Seward's Remarks on India. — Natural 
 Religion, — Tlio Characteristics of the Hindoo Mind — England's Hold on India,— 
 The Regeneration of India. — The Island of Socotra. — Arrival at Aden. — An Kxtinct 
 Volcano. — Wise Old England ! — A New Stage of the Voyage. — Rcd-Uaired Negroes. 
 
 Steamer Deccan., April ^oth. — Once more at sea ! But wJicre? 
 The waters whieli roll bct\vc>>n the Indian Peninsula and tlio Ara- 
 bian Promontory are the Arabian Sea. Tlie waters south of tlicni 
 are the Indian Ocean. AVe left the Indian Peninsula behind lis on 
 the 22d, and are now making a bee-line from the Malabar coast to 
 Aden, on the southwest coast of Arabia. On which of tlie two 
 seas are we? Our steamer is the largest one of the Peninsular and 
 Oriental line. Having three keels, she rides the sea as srjuardy 
 and as smoothly as an American sidc-whecler. Our fellow-passen- 
 gers being English, and many of them acquaintances made in India, 
 we are not suffered to feel that we are strangers. 
 
 "While watching the flying fish skipping over the unruffled m 
 this morning, which of all the reflections that occurred to us dur- 
 ing our sojourn in India shall we record? Mr. Seward said; 
 " India has a very imperfect and unsatisfactory civilization, but it 
 never had a better one. The native population could never 
 achieve a better one if left to themselves. Their whole hope of a 
 higher civilization depends on the instruction and aid of the West- 
 ern nations, and, taking circumstances as they are, that hope de- 
 
REMATlTCi ON INDIA. 
 
 507 
 
 arks on India.— Nutural 
 land's Hold on Inilia.- 
 al at Aden.— An Kxfmcl 
 ;c.— Ucd-llaired Ncj^rocs. 
 
 ;sca! But where! 
 nsula and the Ara- 
 aters south of thcni 
 insula behintl us on 
 ic "Mahihar coast to 
 which of the two 
 the Peninsular and 
 the sea as squarely 
 Our fellow-passcii- 
 mccs made in India, 
 
 s. 
 
 rer the unruffled «ca 
 occurred to us dur- 
 Mr. Seward said; 
 •y civilization, but it 
 ilation could never 
 heir whole hope of a 
 and aid of the West- 
 y are, that hope de- 
 
 pends chiefly on the pjuidance and aid of Groat Britain. It is a suh- 
 jcct for profound study how it lias happened tliat tliua far India has 
 liaii an experience so different from that of the nations of the West. 
 Although the Western nations have not at all times been progres- 
 iiivc, they have, nevertheless, as a whole family, been continually 
 iulviincing. How is this to be accounted for? The first intellect- 
 ual want of which man is conscious is, not that of a guidance in 
 obtaining a supply of the necessaries of life, but a desire to know 
 who and what is the power that created him, and on whom he is 
 entirely dependent. Man feels himself capable of seeing and en- 
 joying good, and also of doing and suffering evil. He asks, What 
 is good, Avhat 13 evil ? When do good and evil come, and how I 
 Where does the Supreme Power reside, and what is it ? Is it one, 
 or is it many ? Is it altogether good, or altogether evil ? How 
 can the Supreme Power be both good and evil ? Has the Supreme 
 Power created only good and been baffled by an equal or superior 
 power that has interjected evil? How could a power that is 
 supremely good create evil ? Does the Supreme Power delight in 
 virtue and the happiness of mankind, or does it derive pleasure 
 from their crimes and suffering? The Supreme Power lias so far 
 revealed itself in Nature that man can attain to the knowledge that 
 it is a single power, that there is one God, not many gods, and that 
 this one God requires from man the practice of virtue, and desires 
 his happiness. This truth must be seized upon and become a 
 spiritual conviction. Until a national mind grasps and cherishes 
 this spiritual conviction, it must ever continue to revolve in a con- 
 dition of uncertainty and doubt about the providential appoint- 
 ments of good and evil, wdiich render it incapable of a firm ad- 
 vance in knowledge and civilization. This is only saying, in other 
 words, that such a nation becomes bewildered in the subtleties of 
 metaphysics. This bewilderment has hitherto been, and yet 
 remains, a condition of the people of Hindostan. All studious 
 observers have agreed that the Hindoos are not intellectually in- 
 ferior to the Western nations. They early framed a language, the 
 Sanscrit, which the learned of every nation unite in asserting is 
 superior to every other vehicle of human thought ; they have ethics 
 
608 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 
 
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 equal to those of Confucius, and his are equal to the morals of 
 Plato. They have many municipal laws as just as the common 
 law. They have skill in productive art and manufacture, which 
 has made their fabrics objects of cupidity and envy among all 
 nations. Their literature of fiction furnished a model for the 
 'Arabian Nights Entertainments' as well as the poems of Ari- 
 osto ar 1 Chaucer. They gave to Greece the science of notation, 
 and they have always excelled in mathematics generally, and prac- 
 tical hydraulics. Nevertheless, the Hindoos have never linown 
 how to constitute a civil government, or to organize a beneficial 
 ecclesiastical system. They have never even written a history of 
 themselves, unless we accept, as such, fables which cover a chrono- 
 logifal period of many millions of years, with four successive ages: 
 first- one of perfect human strength, purity, and happiness ; second, 
 one of a slight admixture of weakness, rendering human govern- 
 ment necessary ; third, an equal admixture of vice and virtue ; and, 
 fourth, the predominance of evil, which has only endured five 
 thousand years of its appointed term of four hundred and thirty- 
 three thousand ! Unable to establish a plausible mythology, tliev 
 require us, in the nineteenth century of the Christian era, to accept 
 a -'antheon of thirty-three millions of gods 1 It is not for us to 
 deterinine " .i ether the pertinacious metaphysical bias of the Hin- 
 doos is iiatural to the Hindoo mind, or is accidental. Its fruits are 
 palpable enough. They are, a persistent adhesioxi to the Pytha- 
 gorean theory of transmigration — a theory which equally subverts 
 the relation of man to brute, and the relation of both man and 
 brute to the common Creator ; a degradation and debasement of 
 woman, which not only exclude her from society, but render her 
 incapable of it; caste, which extirpates cor)pcration, emulation, and 
 charity, annihilates the inherent conviction of the equal rights of 
 manhood, and delivers all governments over to the caprices of 
 ambition and the chi^nces of anarchy. The remedy for India is 
 and can be nothing less than a regeneration of the Hindoo mind, 
 The Mogul conquerors attempted this by teaching the ^lohanimo- 
 dan faith, and enforcing their instructions by the sword of tlie 
 prophet. They failed even to establish a severe despotism. The 
 
BRITISU CONTROL IN INDIA. 
 
 509 
 
 superior political science and greater toleration of the British 
 nation enable them at least to rule India in peace, but not without 
 a constant exhibition of military power. It is but too ai)parent 
 that the native population of India liave not yet, under British 
 rule, established any firm advance. If the British Government 
 should withdraw itself from Ilindostan to-day, the coimtry must 
 inevitably relapse into the wretched condition in which it was 
 found by the Europeans. But Great Britain has a difiicult task, 
 hidia cannot be colonized by British subjects, or European races, 
 as North America and Australia were. Climate forbids this, even 
 if caste does not. On the other hand. Great Britain, now con- 
 stantly present in India, and in all parts of it, with her arts and 
 her arms, protects and cooperates with the philanthropists wdio 
 come as missionaries and educators. These can hardly fail under 
 such circumstances to produce a change in the practices, habits, and 
 languages, of the people of India. The work of regeneration must 
 indeed be slow, for it requires nothing le.- - than the destruction of 
 caste^ the restoration of woman, and the conversion of the natives, 
 i( not to Christianity, at least to a religion more rational and prac- 
 tical than the Braminical taith. Through this slow process, the 
 idea of the dignity and rights of man may be expected to develop. 
 It may seem sanguine to expect that, among the vicissitudes inher- 
 ent in all political aflfiirs, British control in India will last long 
 enough to secure this great consummation. But, even if this 
 should not be so, the Western powers which should relieve Great 
 Britain in India must necessarily assume her responsibilities. 
 I do not think her situation in India precarious ; certainly no Euro- 
 pean power has now the ability to displace her from the position 
 she has attained through long perseverance and at great cost. The 
 perils of British authority in India, if there are any, are those 
 which threaten the stability and peace of the realm. So long as 
 Great Britain shall be content to employ Sepoys, and subsidize 
 native princes, she will be quite safe in India, and during all that 
 thno the habit of submission to British law may be expected to 
 increase, and so reduce gradually the difficulties of the situation. 
 We have not found the British residents in India one-half so hope- 
 
510 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 ful of the regeneration of the country as this, but all great and 
 benevolent enterprises, however slow in progress, are sure to be 
 successful at last. The regeneration of India is an old talk of the 
 Western nations. It dates from the invasion of Alexander. It 
 was the task of the Mohammedans. Caste and superstition arc for 
 less omnipotent in India now than they were two thousand years 
 ago, four hundred years ago, or even fifty years ago, nor is the con- 
 dition of the people as low now as it was at any of those periods." 
 
 
 
 ^^ -I 1 
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 "1 
 
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 .1 
 
 Indian Ocean, Aiyril 1%th. — "We are just passing the island of 
 Socotra, which belongs to the Sultan of Muscat. It is commer- 
 cially known for its exports of aloes and the gum of the dragon's- 
 blood tree.* Admiral Cockburn recently visited the island Mi tli a 
 view of suppressing a small slave-traffic which is carried on there 
 with traders from the opposite African coast. So we see that, 
 although the African slave-trade has been abolished among the civ- 
 ilized nations, it still lingers among those which have not been re- 
 claimed from barbarism. The admiral found the inhabitants of the 
 capital, Tamarinda, little better than aborigines, though they speak 
 the Arabic and profess Mohammedanism. Before Mohammed, 
 however, they were not pagans, for St. Francis Xavier, in relating 
 his voyage to India, states that his vessel entered the harbor of 
 Socotra, and was detained there many weeks for provisions and re- 
 pairs. He found the inhabitants hospitable and docile Christians, 
 using a ritual-service which they claimed to have been left them by 
 the Apostle St. Thomas, to whom they attributed their conversion, 
 They had never heard of the Pope, nor even of the division of the 
 Church between the Greek Patriarch, whom they acknowledged, 
 and the Eishop of Rome. 
 
 April '21 fh. — After eight months' travel in the incomprehen- 
 sible East, with its stagnant civilization, we are now passing into 
 another region still more incomprehensible and hopeless. 
 
 On our right hand is Yemen, once " Arabia the happy," and 
 still known in poetry as a land of light and beauty, but now the 
 dwelling of Arab hordes, who are sinking every day deeper into 
 
ADEN. 
 
 611 
 
 barbarism. On the left, we are passing Soumala, that part of 
 Africa which stretches from Mozambique to Abyssinia. It is 
 Inhabited by aboriginal negro tribes, which, from the beginning of 
 time, have defied civilization. Thus we have the same experience, 
 in our approach to Europe, as when we listen to a vague and con- 
 fused prelude which precedes the full harmony of the symphony. 
 
 Aden^ April 'H^th. — Elevated plains on the Arabian coast, too 
 distant for minute observation, were our landmarks as we neared 
 Aden. 
 
 Many centuries ago — we must considt geology to know how 
 many — a great fire was pent up in the lowest depths of the prom- 
 ontory that now bears the name of Aden. That subterranean fire, 
 becoming at last uncontrollable, burned the whole promontory out, 
 and left it upside-down. The top of the hill was gone, and nothing 
 remained but a huge cylindrical bowl, six miles in diameter at the 
 bottom, with a rim fifteen hundred feet high. No one knows what 
 that convulsion of Nature was for, any more than " Caspar " knew 
 what the battle of Blenheim was about. Everybody, however, said 
 that Blenheim was a " famous victory," and everybody agrees that 
 Aden was a great volcano. Aden, thus hollowed into basin-shape, 
 is joined to the Arabian coast by a low and very narrow isthmus — 
 a place so entirely desolate it has never before been our fortune to 
 see. On it, or in it (which will you have ?), there is not a tree nor 
 a plant "xccpt where, here and there, is a patch which man's hand 
 has planted, scarcely bigger than that hand, and which he continues 
 to water daily. The Portuguese discoverers stopped here on their 
 voyages of exploration. They found here, as at Socotra, a colony 
 of Syrian Christians. The Mohammeilans from Mecca invaded 
 them with fire and sword. They invoked relief and protection 
 from the Portuguese Indian capital at Goa. The Portuguese in- 
 tervention proved ineffectual, and the promontory remained under 
 native Arabian sway, and ultimately came to be a province of Mus- 
 cat. The kings of Muscat lost it, as they lost every thing, and the 
 promontory remained under the control of native chiefs. The 
 British Government early saw its importance to their Indian do- 
 
 li 
 
 % 
 
512 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 minions, but awaited an opportunity. In 1839, under the pretext 
 of redressing an insult. Great Britain, with sword in one hand, and 
 a liberal purse in the other, seized the promontory and fortified it. 
 
 fESH"**- 
 
 ■ «»n 
 
 >* 
 
 t^ 
 
 '* 
 
 
 tf ) 
 
 
 f- 
 
 a- 
 
 ! 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 < 
 
 
 1, 
 
 
 * 
 
 
 li, 
 
 
 iiii 
 
 J « 
 
 !"• . 
 
 :« 
 
 '"■• 
 
 • • 
 
 ADEN. 
 
 It is now used as a coaling-station in the European voyages to 
 India, whether they arc made around the Cape of Good Hope, or 
 through the Red Sea. Aden commands the latter navigation, and 
 in this sense is the key to India and the whole East, as Singa- 
 pore is the key to China, Japan, the Archipelago, and Australia, 
 Aden is politically dependent, not directly on the Home Govcni- 
 ment, but on the presidency of Bombay, and is held and main- 
 tained at the cost of the government of Brit'sh India. 
 
 "Wise old England 1 How she fortifies her Island Realm, and 
 yet all the while develops and improves the energies of her people. 
 while she docs not hesitate to undertake the police regulation of the 
 
ADEN. 
 
 513 
 
 world I She knows, moreover, when and where and how to estab- 
 lish the necessary police-stations. If jealous of the United States, 
 what could she desire more than that they shall be content with 
 complaining of the Alabama grievances, hesitate at taking a police- 
 station in Alaska, and utterly refuse to take one, even though 
 offered, in the AVcst Indies ? That hesitation and refusal recall 
 President Lincoln's story of the intrusion of the Universalists into 
 the town of Springfield. The several orthodox churches agreed 
 that their pastors should preach down the heresy. One of them 
 began his discourse with these emphatic w ords : " My brethren, 
 there is a dangerous doctrine ere ^.Ing in among us. There are 
 those who are teaching that all men will be saved ; but, my dear 
 brethren, we hope for better things 1 " 
 
 Aden is a fortification and harbor, and nothing more. The 
 fortification is without a model, and there is no duplicate of it, for 
 the simple reason that the volcano shaped it. All that rfcience had 
 to do was, to perfect what the volcano left unfinished. The Gov- 
 ernment has simply hewn the concave rocky surface of the crater 
 into bastions, palisades, covered ways, parapets, martello-towers, 
 and castellated batteries, so as to repel approach from the sea, on 
 every side, and at the same time to cominand every foo*' of the 
 interior area. The base of the interior area has two depressions, 
 doubtless produced by two distinct eruptions, separated by a bar- 
 rier of rock, indicating that there must have been two volcanoes. 
 The larger area of these excavations contains the town of Aden, 
 the other the arsenal. A passage v/hich has been hewn through 
 tliis volcanic rock connects the arsenal with the barracks in the 
 town. This passage has a ditch along its side, parallel massive 
 walls on both sides, and a battery at each end, commanding the 
 plain in either direction. The outer sides of the circular mountain 
 are bo steep and so indented that they furnish deep and convenient 
 bays for safe anchorage at their base. The rocl<y precipices which 
 enclose the crater leave no sufficient space for barracks or dwell- 
 ings. The population of Aden, including all ci.^sses, is contracted, 
 therefore, within the basin, and so under control of the fortifica- 
 tions. You reach this basin, not by diivij^g under the encircling 
 
514 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 SIS'**' 
 
 
 
 s 
 
 
 1» 
 
 
 I." 
 
 IB ' 
 
 mi' 
 
 4 
 
 A 
 
 rim and rising within, uor by climbing over it, but by a road hewn 
 through the rim itself. Some military critics among our Britisli 
 acquaintance tell us that these defences are not impregnable. 
 Mr. Seward asks, "But can they not easily be made so ? " Tliev 
 assent. " That," he says, " is all that is required of any fortifica- 
 tion," The force at present stationed here is only one regiment. 
 
 The latitude of Aden is 12° north. The heat is so constant, as 
 well as 60 intense, as to suggest the apprehension of new subter- 
 ranean fires. Sometime? three years pass without the blessing of 
 rairi. It is, therefore, a severe study of the government to pro- 
 vide fresh water for town, garrison, and shipping. The earlier 
 owners of Aden had a considerable city within the basin, wliicli 
 they supplied with water by collecting the rain which occasionally 
 fell on the crests and interior declivities, and conducting it co a 
 dozen tanks or reservoirs. The water thus gathered and hoarded 
 from tropical tempests would be sufficient, if left to its natural flow. 
 to deluge the bottom of the basin. These reservoirs remain in per- 
 fect preservation, and are admired for their masonry. The walls of 
 each bear a tablet on which is stated its cajiacity in gallons. The 
 supi)ly furnished by these ancient reservoirs is quite inadequate 
 to the present demand of the town, which is provided for by tlie 
 use of steam-condensers of sea-water. It 's a curious thing to see 
 English artisans hero using coal from Cornwall, to extract water 
 from the ocean to s^ake the thirst of the savages of Asia and Africa. 
 Who shall questi'.n that the British people are a commercial one, 
 when he learns that the government at Aden sells the water, wLicli 
 it thus manuffictures, at a penny a gallon ? 
 
 We realize here that we have reached a new stage of our round- 
 the-world voyage. "We are leaving, rather, let us say, we have left 
 the far East and the South behind us. Though not yet arrived at 
 the West and the North, we are on their confines. Kot one Mon- 
 golian or Malay, do we see, only a few Hindoos and an individual 
 Parsee, who applies to Mr. Seward to be appointed consul of the 
 United States. The people are Arabs, Turks, swarthy Jews, and 
 Abyssinians ; the dominating races, Abyssin.iaiis and Sounialans. 
 The Hindoos arc servants; the Jews, bankers and pawnbrokers; 
 
THE SOUMALAXS. 
 
 615 
 
 lit by a road hewn 
 unong our Britisli 
 
 not impregnable, 
 made so T' Thev 
 ed of any fortilicfi- 
 ily one regiment, 
 at is so constant, as 
 ion of new subter- 
 out the blessing of 
 j-overnment to pro- 
 )ping. Tlic earlier 
 dn the basin, wliicli 
 I which occasionally 
 
 conducting it to a 
 thered and hoarded 
 't to its natural flow, 
 •voirs remain in per- 
 sonry. The walls of 
 ity in gallons. The 
 
 is quite inadequate 
 provided for by tlie 
 
 curious thing to see 
 all, to extract water 
 s of Asia and Africa. 
 I'o a commercial one, 
 ,clls the water, wliich 
 
 IV stage of our round- 
 us say, we have left 
 sh not yet arrived at 
 ines. Kot one Mon- 
 )s and an individual 
 ointed consul of tlie 
 s, swarthy Jews, and 
 ans and Sounialans. 
 3 and pawnbrokers; 
 
 the Arabs and Abyssinians, traders in coffee, franhincense, myrrh, 
 amber, and ostrich-feathers. The Arabs also supply the people 
 with fruit, mostly dates, and with the mutton of the Berber sheep. 
 This small animal is invariably white, with a black head. The 
 Sounialans arc not prepossessing in appearance. AVo happened to 
 be in our state-rooms when the Deccan came to anchor. These 
 natives swarmed thickly around the steamer, in the smallest and 
 most rickety of all boats and rafts, to see if happily some passenger 
 mi""ht want them, either to carry baggage ashore for a penny, or to 
 dive into the sea for the same price. Before we were aware, they 
 were climbing over the ports, naked, except at the waists, peering 
 with their large, yellow-black eyes into the ship — blacl: as Milton's 
 darkness, strong and lithe, with great white teeth, flat noses, low 
 foreheads, and thick hair, curly, and varying in color from carrot- 
 red to tow-white — Scandinavian hair on African heads ! At the 
 instant they appeared at the vessel's side, the command rang 
 through the ship, " Close the ports ! " and a guard was stationed on 
 deck to prevent their apprehended larcenies. Failing to find em- 
 ployment as porters, they passed the whole day diving into the sea. 
 On shore we found invariably the same light hair on the heads of the 
 same race. " Verily," we said, " though in the times of Jeremiah 
 'the leopard could not change his spots, nor the Ethiopian his 
 sldn,' the latter has since that time learned to change the color of 
 his hair.-' The Soumalans are laborers, that is to say, th?^ Avomen 
 are. Blessed are the customs of these aboriginal Africans, far 
 more blessed than those of semi-oivilizcd Asia. These Sornnalan 
 women, with their glistening white teeth, red lips, and yellow eyes, 
 are the only women we have seen in the enjoyment of personal 
 freedom since we left the United States, except the Mongolians in 
 the Nan-Kow Pass. This enjoyment is not perhaps too dearly pur- 
 chased, even at the cost of performing the servile labor by which 
 their black lords live. 
 
 The buildings here are constructed of lava-rock, without any 
 pretension to elegance or even eon>'enience. The governor is a 
 gentleman of long experience, extensive information, and great 
 candor. The fortunate coincidence! of finding Admiral Cockburu 
 
516 
 
 BRITISH INDIA. 
 
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 "Ti ij 
 
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 1 
 
 
 here with the Forte is especially gratifying, "We have passed 
 the day on shore, and concerted a plan for a future and hopeful 
 correspondence.' ^ 
 
 It is not always safe to trust to fellow-passengers, or hastily- 
 made acquaintances, for an explanation of what you find curious in 
 fo.'eign travel. We inquired of every one how it happens that these 
 black men of Soumala have red or tow hair. The first answer we 
 received was, that they are the "beaux" of Africa, that they dve 
 their hair to make themselves attractive. Others answered that 
 the race are red-haired men. The true explanation was given by the 
 governor, but it requires some caution in setting it down. "Water 
 is scarce in this burning climate; the Soumalans use lime as a suK 
 stitute, and this cfiects two important savings : one, the expense of 
 soap ; the other, the cost of a fine-tooth comb. 
 
 "Oh, tell mo, where is fancy bred — 
 In the heart or in the head ? " 
 
 It has often been a study of ours, Where are fashions bred? 
 We think we have found out that th ^ fashion of long-pointed finger- 
 nails, now so much the vogue in Europe, is borrowed from the 
 elite of China. Prince Kung's nails are so long and so exquisitely 
 cultivated as to Jlsconragc emulation in European diplomatic cir- 
 cles; and all the gold-dust, diamond-dust, or dyes of Paris, arc inef- 
 fectual, compared with the lime-wash of Soumala, for bleaching 
 
 hair. 
 
 f 
 
 ' March 21, 1872.-11 is with deep sorrow that wc record the death of this chivalrous 
 and pious gentleman. He fell a victim to the Indian climate. 
 
 ir. 
 
 
"We have passed 
 future and liopeful 
 
 issengers, or hastily, 
 it you find curious in 
 it happens that these 
 The first answer we 
 Africa, that they dye 
 ►thers answered that 
 ition was given by the 
 ;ing it down. "Water 
 ms use lime as a suh- 
 : one, the expense of 
 
 ed— 
 
 e are fashions bred? 
 )f long-pointed finger- 
 j borrowed from the 
 ng and so exquisitely 
 'opean diplomatic cir- 
 lyes of Paris, arc iiief- 
 umala, for bleaching 
 
 PART V. 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 1 the death of this chivalrous 
 
 84 
 
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 ft 
 
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CHAPTER I. 
 
 THE RED SEA AND SUEZ CANAL. 
 
 The Gate of Tears. — The Rock of Pcrim, — The Port of Mecca. — Imaginary Terrors — 
 Pleasant Weather. — The Coasts of the Red Sea. — Tlic Division of the Races. — A 
 Refreshing Atmosphere. — The Track of the Israelites. — Suez. — The Ancient Canal. 
 —The New Canal. — Its Inauguration. — Its Prospects. 
 
 Steamer Deccan^ Bed Sea, April 30^A. — Last night we came 
 through the Strait of Bab-ql-Mandeb (the Gate of Tears). Thougli 
 we had a growing moon, we were unable to discern either shore, or 
 the Rock of Perim, long fam6us for its supply of tortoise-shell, and 
 rendered notorious, in our own time, by the abortive attempt of the 
 French to secure it as a counter-salient to Aden. "We are quite 
 sure that, with the aid of a strong glass, reiinforced by a more pow- 
 erful faith, we discerned this morning the Arabian shore, and even 
 the minarets of some town. We are now sailing past a series of 
 low, sandy, uninhabited islands which lie off" the Abyssinian shore. 
 
 May Sd. — We have just passed Jiddah, the port of Mecca. 
 Although some of the European powers manage, in spite of the 
 fanatical ferocity of the natives, to maintain consulates there, the 
 port is visited only by Egyptian craft. On the western shore, we 
 have taken leave of Abyssinia, and now we make the towering 
 peak, Ras-Elba, which tells us that we have come far upward along 
 the desert shores of Nubia. From the day we formed our first ac- 
 quaintance with European sojourners in the East, at Yokohama, 
 

 520 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 
 Is. 
 
 ir 
 
 a 
 I 
 
 1} 
 
 It::- 
 
 
 the one peril of our AVcRtorn voyftp^o, whlt'li was represented U8 tlic 
 modt fejirfiil, lias boon the scorcliin<^ {'liiuatc of the lied Sea. AVc 
 have been tohl that the steamer, driviiij; before tlie wind, often iv- 
 verses its course to procure relief, and that ])a8sengers die in tluir 
 cabins, merely from the oppression of the atmos[)herc. We as von. 
 Btantly opposed these fears, because we knew that latitude would be 
 in our f ivor, and we thought we nii^ht expect to meet revixjnir 
 breezes from the Mediterranean. We were rif^ht ; not the Pacific 
 Ocean, nor even the Indian Ocean, furnished us a more ])lcasaiit 
 voya_nje than the lied Sea. The suifacc rutiled by the gentlest 
 of zephyrs, its waves, this morning, reflect rainbows broken witli 
 myriads of prisms, as brilliant and as distinct as those which, (ni a 
 summer day, dance in the spray below the cataract at Niagara. It 
 is not easy, perhaps, to ascertain on what grounds this great <,nilt'. 
 twelve hundred miles long and two hundred miles wide, acciuiml. 
 so early as the time of Herodotus, the name of lied Sea. Probablv 
 it was so named from the banks of coral which underlie its water?, 
 and which render its navigation dangerous. Certainly the water i? 
 not red ; this morning it assumes a hue of emerald-green. 
 
 Pleasant as the voyage is, however, no one expresses a desire to 
 explore either coast of the Red Sea. The reason is, that siulmn 
 attempt would be dangerous. On the Arabian shore, the inhabi- 
 tants are relapsing into barbarism ; while, on the African shore, 
 the people have never been reclaimed from the savage state. This, 
 therefore, is the most forlorn region through which we pass on our 
 voyage. Nevertheless, not only history, but even revelation, is at 
 fault, if Ave are not just now nearing the cradle of civilization, 
 How melancholy a thought it seems, that while we find prosperity, 
 improvement, and progress, or at least philanthropic efibrt, attend- 
 ed with hope in all parts of Asia through which we have passed, as 
 well as on the steppes of Northern Europe, and in the most desert 
 parts of America — and indeed civilization reclaiming the islands of 
 the Bea near the North and South Poles — vet darkness continuallv 
 gathers in this, the oldest and most favored, region of the cartli! 
 This must have happened because the two great divisions of the 
 human family, the white races and the dark races, meet here on tlic 
 
mVERGENCS OF THE RACES. 
 
 r)2i 
 
 re])rcscntcd as tlic 
 the lied Sea. AVe 
 the wind, often re- 
 ,cngers die in tlioir 
 pherc. AVe as (..u- 
 it latitude would lie 
 >t to meet reviving; 
 ;lit ; not the Pai'itic 
 us a more pleasant 
 led by the gentlest 
 inhows broken with 
 as those which, m ii 
 ^ract at IsMagara. It 
 iinds this great j,nilt'. 
 miles wide, ac'<|iiire(l 
 Kcd Sea. rro1)ablY 
 h underlie its water?. 
 'ertainly the water b 
 rald-grccn. 
 expresses a desire to 
 sason is, that sueli an 
 an shore, the inliabi- 
 n the AtViean shore, 
 c savage state. Tins. 
 whieh we pass on our 
 even revelation, isiit 
 •radle of civilization. 
 le we find prosperity, 
 thropic effort, atteml- 
 c'h we have passed, as 
 nd in the most desert 
 .aiming the islands of 
 darkness continually 
 region of the earth', 
 great divisions of the 
 ices, meet here on the 
 
 opposite shores of the Red Sea, and the opposite banks of the Nile. 
 They did not commingle, and they could not remain together. 
 They parted, perhaps by consent, more ])robably by instinct, the 
 dark races retaining Africa, and, moving southward and eastward, 
 peopling India, Burmah, Thibet, China, Japan, the Archipelago, 
 Oeeanica, and Western America; the Caucasian race, on the con- 
 trary, leaving Asia as well as Ai'rica to their dark competitors, 
 spread themselves continually northward and westward on the 
 European Continent, the islands of the Atlantic, and the eastern 
 American shores. The shores of the Red Sea have been practically 
 abandoned by both /aces. Ifow strangely this divergence of the 
 white and the dark '•"ccs per* lexes the problem of the ultimate civ- 
 ilization and unity of iimnkind! The darker races, following the 
 jiidit of Nature, and rejecting or extinguishing that of revelation, 
 have stumbled, and are scarcely nuiking any progress since the sej)- 
 aration. The white races, more willingly accepting the greater 
 lij,dit, though they also have stundded, have reached a higher plane. 
 Man can go no further in unravelling that perplexity. The designs 
 of Providence arc not unintelligible, but they are not man's. 
 ways. 
 
 3fai/ ^)th. — TIow refreshing and invigorating is this cool atmos- 
 jihere, after the iutemperato heat wo endured so long in India!. 
 We arc now bearing westwardly into the Culf of Suez — the west- 
 ern of the two gidfs which divide the Red Sea at its upper termina- 
 tion. The eastern one is Akabah. The (hilf of Suez contracts 
 gradually from forty miles to ten in width. The African coast of 
 the Gulf of Suez is a desert table-land, rising into equally sterile 
 mountains. These plains and mountains divide the Red Sea from 
 the fertile valley of the Nile. AYe suj)p()So that we have already 
 crossed ihc path the Israelites took in their miraculous passage. 
 We need not, however, have come here to learn that tlie track can- 
 not now be precisely ascertained. The topography of the region 
 fo far supports the Scripture account as to indicate that the exiles 
 from (ioshen might most naturally have come down the western 
 lunk of the Gulf of Suez, and thence across the gulf to the end of, 
 
522 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 5' 
 
 !l 
 
 II. 
 
 the Sinaitic promontory ; thence they would have passed tliroiirjh 
 Edom and Moab, now Arabia Petrfea, along the eastern shore of the 
 Dead Sea to the mouth of the Jordan. If we suppose, on the con- 
 trary, that they travelled around the head of the Gulf of Suez, tlicir 
 journey would have been much longer and more exposed to fw- 
 suit by Pharaoh, but in that case it would lose altogether its niai-- 
 vellous character. If we assume that they crossed through the wa- 
 ters, it is purely absurd to suppose that any landmarks or traces cf 
 the miraculous passage could now be found. It is not so witli 
 their march northward from the head o» the Red Sea. Sinai and 
 Iloreb are two of i cluster of yellow mountain-penks, which crown 
 the peninsula and divide the Gulf of Akabah from the Gulf of 
 Suez. While It is certain that we are at this moment looking from 
 the deck of our steamer upon both of these celebrated mountains, 
 it is nevertheless impossible to identify them. On the M'cstorn 
 shore of the Gulf of Akabah is the port bearing that name. It is 
 not doubtful, however, that this same Akabah is the Ezion-geber 
 of sacred history. It is no unimportant part that this place, now so 
 obscure, has held in the progress of human society. 
 
 " And when we passed by from our bretlircn the children of 
 P^sau, which dwelt in Seir, through the way of the plain fmni 
 Elath, and from Ezion-gebcr, wo turned and passed by t!ie mhv 
 of the wilderness of Moab." 
 
 "And King Solomon made a navy of ships in Ezion-gebcr. 
 which is beside Elath, on the shore of the Red Sea, in the land of 
 Edom." 
 
 " Jehoshaphat made ships of Tharshish to go to Ophir for fjdld; 
 but they went not ; for the slnps were broken at Ezion-gebcr." 
 
 Bv-the-wav, there has ])een a c-reat revolution in exclianiros 
 since Jehoshaphat's time. The Western nations, instead of briiii;- 
 ing gold from India, now carry the precious metals into that coun- 
 try. 
 
 Sve::, Ma^j ()t/i. — It is difficult to say which of the two places i« 
 the most forbidding and gloomy, Aden or Suez. Aden is scoopcil 
 out of black volcanic rock, Suez is built on a monotonous gray 
 
ismaJlia. 
 
 523 
 
 sand-beach. It never rains here, naturally there is not moisture 
 enough to sustain a germ of vegetable life, or slake a camel's thirst. 
 Xeitlier flood nor desert, however, can perpetually defy the 
 improving hand of man. A stream of fresh water has been 
 brought through the desert from the Nile, which supplies the most 
 pressing wants of the town, and even a tiny garden occasionally 
 smiles on the desert-shore. The Suez Canal Company has made a 
 safe harbor here, with convenient wharves, upon which are con- 
 structed the railway-station and engine-houses. 
 
 Suez, like Omaha, is a great place in the future. At present it 
 contains the taverns, storehouses, and machine-shops, which are 
 required by a trade w^hich is only recently opened. Soma trav- 
 ellers assign to it a population of twenty-five thousand. We think 
 there may be ten thousand. All the buildings are of stone, except 
 occasionally a small frame structure used as a boarding-house, and, 
 because of its frail, fanciful construction, called an " American " 
 house. 
 
 Telegrams from Cairo were received on our coming to anchor 
 here, and soon afterward Betts Dey, a confidential officer of the 
 Khedive, came on board, with the United States consul-general for 
 Eirypt, and our esteemed American friend from "Washington, Mr. 
 Charles Knapp, of " great-gun " notoriety. Betts Bey tendered us, 
 in behalf of the Khedive, a special train for travel at our own con- 
 venience. 
 
 Imailia, May (Sth. — We shall not now undertake to say 
 whether it was Sesostris, or some other Rameses or Necho, who, 
 seven hundred years before the Christian era, built a sliiiK'imal 
 across the desert from Suez to Bubastis on the Kile. Nor do we 
 think it necessary to say that at the period of the first invasion of 
 Eirypt by the Turkish Mohammedans, fourteen hundred years later, 
 that ancient and important navigation was so eflectually lost that 
 even its route across the desert had entirely disappeared, and its 
 channel has never oven been ascertained. S(»me good always 
 comes out of the greatest evils. Napoleon's invasion in '08 was a 
 severe scourge to Egypt. But the Suez C^anal is the fruit of the 
 
524 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 s 
 
 ■«■■. 
 
 »iri 
 
 mH^' 
 
 ia» 
 
 m», 
 
 4»t 
 
 
 »•■ 
 
 «r. 
 
 t>in 
 
 r 
 
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 •-..' 
 
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 it 
 
 ^ 
 
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 1 
 
 !l 
 
 snnfgestions and surveys lie then instituted with a view to restore 
 that invahiablc higliway. Seventy years were occupied with 
 explorations to remove speculative difficulties. These were — first, 
 that the elevation of the Mediterranean and of the lied Sea were 
 unequal, rendering necessary a lockage, dangerous if not impracti- 
 cable ; second, that no safe harbor could be biiilt on the Mediter- 
 ranean coast ; third, that the deposits of the Nile on the Meditei 
 ranean shore have made an oozy bed, incapable oi' holding water: 
 fourth, that the sands of the desert, near the Red Sea, are iucajKi- 
 
 ibuaIua. 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 li. 
 
 J* 
 
 hlo of retaining water; fifth, that the mroccos of the desert wniiM 
 till any channel with sand as fast as it could be excavated. Tliciv 
 M''(3re difficult iesi also of a political nature. The British (tovoni- 
 mont was unwilling that the canal should be built uiuler Froiic!; 
 auspices, '{'lie Divan at (^onstantinojilo distrusted the loyalty ot 
 the, Khedive, aiul was subservient to Uritish intlucnce. All tins 
 objections, however, gave way at last, and in ISol) M. l'\'r(liii;iiiil 
 Lcasepii, with the effective support ot the tiien Khedive, Said I'lulii. 
 
THE SUEZ CANAL. 
 
 525 
 
 li a view to restore 
 ere occupied witli 
 These were — first, 
 the lied Sea worr 
 oiis if not inipracti- 
 ,iilt on the Mcditor- 
 ulc on the Meditei- 
 B of holding water : 
 [led Sea, are incapa- 
 
 of the desert ^vollW 
 )o excavated. Tliciv 
 iThe British (xovcni- 
 I huilt under French 
 Iriistcil the loyalty ot 
 lititluence. All tiu'S' 
 18r><.) M. I'cnlinnn'l 
 |lvh6dive,Sai<irm'l';'- 
 
 or<?;Uiizcd a company and commenced the work. Now, in 1871, 
 althougn not fully completed, the canal is in practical operation. 
 Before leaving Suez, we examined the wharves and docks. AVe 
 arrested the train at Serapeum, twenty miles, and at Ismailia, iifty 
 miles from Suez, and inspected one of the deepest cuttings of the 
 canal. We saw how easily ships of three thousand tons can pass. 
 
 We left the northern end of the canal to be examined when we 
 shall have completed our trip in Southern Egypt. We mention 
 now a few only of the more remarkable matters belonging to the 
 (Treat enterprise. 
 
 The canal is a hundred miles in length. It is carried on em- 
 bankments raised in four successive natural lakes. Bitter Lake, the 
 Tini!^ah, the Ballah, and the Menzaleh. Tlie depth of the water is 
 twenty-six feet, its width at the bottom two hundred and forty-six 
 feet, its minimum width at the top is three hundred and forty-six 
 feet. It is without locks. Steam-vessels — as yet none others use 
 the canal — make the transit in twenty-four hours. The harbor at 
 Port Said, on the Mediterranean, is formed by two projecting ])iers, 
 constructed of artificial stone made on the spot. In prosecuting the 
 work, a diminutive fresh-water canal was first constructed by using 
 the waters of the Nile. On the auxiliary canal, the barges convey- 
 ing men, machinery, and supplies, were transported. The water of 
 the Suez Canal, where we examined it, is of the same delicate blue 
 that we had observed in the Gulf of Suez. The canal seemed like 
 ii narrow glossy ribbon, stretched across the yellow desert. Lake 
 Tinisah is a large basin of salt-water which supplies what is ncces- 
 mj to keep the canal at its pro})er level between the two seas. 
 The canal-water is unpalatable to man and beast. 
 
 M. Lesseps built a house near this lake, when he commenced 
 the work. He brought the Nile water then through the lesser 
 canal, and planted a garden. Contractors came there to reside, a 
 town grew up in the Arabian Desert, equal in magnitude and rapid- 
 ity of growth to (Jhevenno. Jhit the Frenchman made hii- town 
 very bcautifid. A population of fifteen thoui-and gathered there in 
 seven years. Broad avenues and streets were marked over the 
 sand, aiul soon were well paved, although stone is rarely found. 
 
526 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 »W 
 
 in 
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 iti: 
 
 ti 
 
 
 even at the bottom of the canal. Catholic churches, foreign con- 
 sulates, villas, banks, shops, and all other elements of the city, were 
 there. The town -was justly named Ismailia in honor of Ismail 
 Pacha, the Khedive, and became at once a provincial capital. All 
 this was while the canal was in process of construction. What did 
 Ismailia want more ? It wanted only the "formal opening of the 
 canal to assert itself a commercial and political centre. The dav 
 which the new city so impatiently desired came at last. Ismailia 
 determined to introduce herself to the world by a grand festival. 
 The season was propitious. The American civil war, which had 
 filled the world with gloom, was ended. The French emperor had 
 withdrawn his invading armies from Mexico. The " sharp, short, 
 and decisive " war between Prussia and Austria was over. ^Xot 
 even a signal-note was then heard of the Germanic-French AVar, 
 which last year broke upon Europe. The Temple of Janus was 
 closed. All the world knows how the Khedive appointed a day for 
 a celebration of the great enterprise, the greatest of the age. Of 
 course, he invited Napoleon, the imperial patron of the worl;. the 
 empress, in the fashionable sense " the light of the world," and 
 with them all the kings and all the queens, and all the princes, and 
 all the presidents, statesmen, warriors, and savantr of the earth, to 
 come to Ismailia. Nearly all who were invited came, personally or 
 by representative. They were received on thg sea-shore, and at 
 Port Said. Splendid steam-yachts conveyed them up the Xile, 
 showing them the Pyramids, the ruins of Memphis and Tliebes, 
 while waiting for the appointed day. Meantime the Khedive, with 
 the energy and the profusion of Ilaroun-al-Raschid, bui^t a palace 
 at Ismailia, and gave it all ihe spaciousness and embellisiniients 
 (suitable for the entertainment of the majesties of the world. Thov 
 came, they passed in barges, brilliant as Cleop'itra's, through tiie 
 canal from the Red Sea to the Mediterranean. They spoke, tliey 
 drank, they danced, and they made the dreary desert for the lirst 
 time a field of chivalry and merriment. Ismailia was happy in the 
 lofty discourses it heard, the superb pageants it saw, and the niasic 
 entertainments it enjoyed, as she was proud in the prestige which 
 this magnificent celebration confirmed. All Egypt was haitpy. 
 
PROSPECTS OF THE CANAL. 
 
 527 
 
 Only a year and a half has elapsed since that magnificent 
 demonstration, and how sadly has Ismailia changed ! We found 
 the population of the town reduced to less than two thousand. 
 The beautiful palace, now knowing, neither master nor guest, has 
 already become monumental. The siroccos blow the sands of the 
 desert on the paved streets of Ismailia, and there is neither man nor 
 money to sweep them out. Contractors and workmen, their work 
 being completed, have disappeared, and no merchants, mechanics, 
 or laborers, have come in their place. The Suez Canal, however, 
 remains, a commercial success. European and American steam- 
 ships- of- war, as well as mercantile vessels of the largest size, pass 
 and repass, but as yet bring no trade either to lamailia or to 
 EiTvpt. They pay very large tolls, but the company not only makes 
 no dividend?!, but demands a new subscription of ten million 
 liounds sterling to its stock, to secure the work against accident or 
 waste. The Egyptian Government, owning half the stock, is em- 
 barrassed, if not unable to make the subscription, and reports come 
 in from Europe (how credible we do not know) that M. Lcsseps 
 and the company arc offering to sell the canal to British purchasers, 
 Gi Lian bankers, American speculators, or whoever will buy. But, 
 notwithstanding all this, the Suez Canal is safe. The permanent 
 interests of Egypt, France, Great Britain, Germany, the United 
 States, of civilization itself, will not allow it to be closed. The 
 tolls, already ample to compensate its superintendence, will increase 
 with the steady increase of steam navigation, and that increase is 
 inevitable. The steam-voyage from Europe to India, whatever 
 rate of toll the Suez Canal may demand, will be cheaper than the 
 voyafjc around the Capo of Good Hope. Heavy freights can al- 
 ways be carried more cheaply by steam on the sea than on the land. 
 All that can happen or will happen of misfortune will be that new 
 stockholders will obtain the stock at reduced prices, and the original 
 and meritorious projectors and prosecutors of the enterprise will 
 lose the whole or part of their investment. This, although a sad 
 result, will only be u renewal of an old experience of public bene- 
 factors. 
 
CHAPTER IT. 
 
 FROM SUEZ TO CAIRO. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 The Bedouin Ar.ibs. — A Wady. — Goshen. — Nubian Troops. — A Splendid Sunset.— Tlio 
 Palace of Repose. — The Kh6dive. — The Population of E^vpt. — The Khedive's Im 
 provcments. — A Visit to the Ilarem. — The Female Slaves. — Egypt and Utah. 
 
 Cairo, May ^yth. — From Suez to Cairo is one hundred and 
 thirty miles. Leaving Ismailia at five o'clock, we continued our 
 monotonous way l\)r two hours. The desert has no inliabitants. 
 except a small force of Arab laborers employed in kef^ping tlic 
 canal and railroad free from the whirling s:%nds. 
 
 On this journey we have made our first acquaintance with the 
 Bedouin Arabs. They were encamped with their camels and liorses 
 on an oasis of hardly thirty rods in circumference, its vcgetiitioii 
 being due to a leakage of the small " Sweet-water " Canal. Tlu' 
 Bedouin tents indicate vagrancy. The encampment had no wom- 
 en ; the men are stalwart and hnndsome. How long will it be 
 before these travellers of the sands, dispensing with their cara- 
 vans, will be buying " excursion-tickets " on raih-oads and stcaui- 
 boats ? 
 
 It is a singular contrast of man's enterprise agr.iust XaturiV 
 impassibility that our p.atli through tlie desert is mai'ked out, r.ot 
 only by the intcroceanic canal, but also by an interoccanic raih-or.d, 
 and by several tclegrajdidines. Of these, the first is tlie Egypfi:!;i 
 line; the second, the European and Indian line; the tliird, tin 
 Suez-Canal line. The whole of Egypt, Fj>per and LoM'cr ir.cliHk'd. 
 
A Fplcndid Sunact.— Tlio 
 rypt. — The Khedive's \m 
 —Egypt and Utuh. 
 
 ; one hundred and 
 
 V, wc continued our 
 
 lias no irditibitiints, 
 
 ed in teoping tlio 
 
 (jiuiintance with tlm 
 ■ir camels and horses 
 rence, its vegetation 
 vater " Canal. T\w 
 pnicnt had no woin- 
 o^v long will it be 
 ng with their can- 
 ailroads and steam- 
 
 isc against Nature's 
 is mar'-:cd out, r.ot 
 uteroccanie railroiul. 
 first is the Egyptiini 
 line; the third, tin 
 and Lower ir.chided. 
 
'« 
 
 V 
 
 J 
 i * 
 
 1, 
 
 
 »1 
 
 f 
 
 n^i 
 
 < 
 
 '♦ ^ 
 
 li 
 
 V 
 
 
 
 Itr' ■ 
 
 3^ 
 
 l!!l* ■ 
 
 A* 
 
 
 ^1 
 
 
 1! 
 
 
 
 530 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 does not furnish suflBcicnt timber for telegraph-poles. Tliese are 
 brought from the forests of the Danube. 
 
 At the end of our two hours' ride, we crossed a broad piece of 
 interval land, here called a wadi/, which is partially irrigated by one 
 of the innumerable canals taken from the Nile. This wady is gen- 
 erally understood to be within the district of Goshen. The ruins 
 of a large town on its borders are said to bear evidences of Jewish 
 architecture. We, however, can state nothing, for we found, on 
 i mvin^ hero, a traveller who, having inspected the site, pro- 
 ihtUT ces the claim apocryphal. "VVe came soon upon the i)laiu of 
 tb ,'rei c fiver, where land and water are always changing, and 
 found it co\o» :d with tropical vegetation, luxuriant and abundant. 
 We had scarcely entered the plain before we observe-l troops of 
 lank, half-famished dogs, resembling the jaclval. No one claims 
 them, and they know no master — they are not unjustly described 
 as pariah-dogs. We rested in Goshen for hali an hour, enjoyin<,' 
 the sumptuous lunch which we found awaiting us there, llcsum 
 ing our way, we passed a large encampment of Egyptian troops, 
 all black, athletic Nubians, in clean white uniforms. Next in 
 splendor to the sunset at Yeddo, which we have recorded, was the 
 sunset which welcomed us to the banks of the Nile. Beyond fields 
 of ripened wheat, alternating with the springing ludian-cijrn, and 
 vegetable gardens, everywhere shaded by the date-palm, the Pyra- 
 mids towered clear against the horizon. Colorless as the rocks and 
 sands on which they stand, they scarcely attained a darker shade as 
 the sun went down behind them. For a moment, the monotonous 
 coloring of sand, pyramids, and sky, gave place to the soft, liazy, 
 commingling of crimson, violet, and gold, through which the god 
 of day delights here to enter his dark chamber in the west. All of 
 this came quickly to an end, and the desert and the horizon, resum- 
 ing their dark, leaden hues, left it uncertain which had absorbed 
 the other. 
 
 Jiasr Nudjii, Cairo, May 7th. — Our reception at Suez, and our 
 journey hither, under the conduct of the viceroy's commissioner, 
 had not at all prepared us, as they might have done, for the gentle 
 
THE EGYniAX KIlEDIVE. 
 
 531 
 
 poles. These are 
 
 hospitalities we are receiving. This palace, " the Palace of Re- 
 pose," is embosomed in gardens. 
 
 The outside world seems never to have come to an agreement 
 with the Egyptians as to the title of their sovereigns. In Hebrew 
 literature, we read of Pharaoh, as if that were a proper name, where- 
 as it is simply the Egyptian word for king. Khedive is, in modern 
 E<^ypt, the title for which the Europeans use the word viceroy, 
 Ismail Pacha, the present Khedive, is a son of the eminent Ibrahim 
 Pacha, and grandson of the illustrious Mehemet Ali, the restorer 
 of Egypt, after its ruin under the sway of the Mamelukes. He 
 succeeded his uncle, Said Pacha, in 1803, and is fifty-five years 
 old. By a treaty, which he made last year with the Sultan, the 
 succession is confirmed to his family in a direct lii . ^lis deriva- 
 tion is from Macedonia, and his appearance is dec'^ledl, '^^kiropcan. 
 He was educated, in part, in France. He speaks the French lan- 
 guage, and inclines to French tastes and aflinities. Arriving this 
 morning, at six o'clock, from an excursion on thr Nile, he appointed 
 eleven o'clock to receive Mr. Seward at the i iace of Ghezireh. 
 Sentinels were placed, at convenient distances, along the outer wall 
 of the palace, and a small guard at the gate. The chief-of-stafF and 
 other officers met Mr. Seward at the door, and conducted him to 
 an audience-chamber where the Khedive was standing dressed in 
 tao Egyptian military uniform with the tarboosh or fez. Receiving 
 Mr. Seward kindly, he conducted him through several antecham- 
 hers to an inner audience-room, and invited him to a seat at his 
 side on a divan. Coffee and chibouques were immediately offered. 
 Although the Khedive's countenance is dull and heavy, he con- 
 verses in French with ease, sagacity, and intelligence. He ex- 
 pressed a high appreciation of the United States, and especially of 
 the justice they practise in international relations. He desired to 
 do all that might be in his power to make Mr. Seward's travels in 
 Egypt safe and agreeable. Conversation of half an hour ensued, 
 in which the Khedive appeared equally free from pretension, affec- 
 tation, or reserve. It took a broad range, embracing politics, 
 agriculture, internal improvement, and popular education. Mr. 
 Seward says, if he had met the Khedive in a social circle incognito^ 
 
5M2 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 I* 
 
 i: 
 
 i 
 U 
 
 .1 
 
 V 
 d 
 I 
 I 
 
 ■f « 
 
 i 
 
 1;: 
 
 
 he should have thon<i;ht him an accomplished country p^cntleniaii 
 interested in education and social reforms, or a railroad contractor, 
 a speculator in lands, or a planter, just as the subject of conversa- 
 tion miiifht happen to turn. He has two traits most admirable in 
 administrator or prince — perfect good-nature and equanimity. 
 
 Hardly had Mr. Seward returned from his audience when the 
 Khedive, attended by his prime-minister, Cherif Pacha, arrived at 
 the Kasr Nudjii, to return the visit. When Mr, Seward jn-esentcd 
 the ladies to him, he at once engaged in agreeable converse with 
 them, and cordially expressed a hope that they would visit the 
 ladies of his family. The well-trained stewards of Kasr Kiuijii 
 needed no instructions to serve the guests with the purest of Mocha 
 cotfee in the tiniest of golden cups, and the most fragrant Latiikieh 
 tobacco in jewelled chiboucpies with amber mouth-pieces. The 
 Khetlive remained with us aa hour, conversing freely on politlL-al 
 affairs, and the subjects of interest in our travels. 
 
 The population of Egypt is eight millions, consisting of two 
 classes. The paramount class consists of immigrants or sojourners 
 from Christian countries, European or American. They lead in 
 commerce, banking, and manufactures. These foreigners, what 
 ever be their distinct nationalities, are called Franks, and they re- 
 tain, by virtue of treaties called "concessions" between the Sultan 
 and Christian states, their respective nationalities and allegiance. 
 They are not only exempt from the judicial authority of the Efjyp- 
 tian (irovernment, but also from taxation. Thus, they constitute a 
 governing class, independent of the Government itself. In short, 
 they replace the Mamelukes. The Khedive's great difficulty con- 
 sists in conducting his administration so as to satisfy this class with- 
 out arousing the jealousy of the natives, and thus avoiding interven- 
 tion by foreign powers. The native class are of mixed races. A 
 small portion of it are Copts, descendants of the original Egyptians, 
 now Christians. A large population, principally near the Moditci- 
 rancan coast, arc chiefly of Arabian extraction, and are Mohamme- 
 dans. Both these classes are illiterate and poor, and are called 
 fellalis ; besides these, there are Nubians, Abyssinians, and otlier 
 Africans. Over all these native classes, the Khedive exercises 
 
THE KIlfiniVE'S ADMIXISTUATIOX. 
 
 533 
 
 luntry gentleman 
 ilroad contractor, 
 bjcct of conversa- 
 nost admirable in 
 equanimity. 
 Ludienco when tlie 
 Taclia, arrived :it 
 Seward prcircnted 
 iblo converse with 
 y wovdd visit the 
 la of Kasr Nutljii 
 lie purest of Mocha 
 : fragrant Latakieh 
 loutb-pieces. The 
 r freely on political 
 
 i, consisting of two 
 rrants or sojourners 
 ;an. They lead in 
 e foreigners, what 
 ranks, and they re- 
 between the Sultan 
 ties and allegiance, 
 hority of the Egyp- 
 IS, they constitute a 
 nt itself. In short, 
 ■reat difficulty con- 
 ,tisfy this class with- 
 s avoiding interven- 
 of mixed races. A 
 original Egyptians. 
 >y near the Mcditcr- 
 and are Mohamme- 
 loor, and are called 
 jyssinians, and other 
 Khedive exercises 
 
 nb.solute power, lie taxes, conscribes, and even confiscates, at 
 pleasure. I>ut this despotic authority luis one practical, though not 
 constitutional limitation. The nuijority of his subjcct.s, being 
 i^incere and bigoted Mohanimetlaus, never cease to regard the 
 Sultan of Turkey as their sovereign. The Mohannnedan natives 
 of Egypt are not troubled with metaphysical distinctions between 
 matters temporal and matters spiritual. They make it a condition 
 of lovalty to their Khedive that he shall in all cases be loval and 
 submissive to the Sultan. The Khedive's administration is a per- 
 sonal one, even more so than that of his friend and late ally, Napo- 
 leon III. Every transaction of the (loveriiment is conducted with 
 his personal knowledge, and by his direction. Without his direc- 
 tion, nothing can be done. It is due to the Khedive, to say that 
 his administration is successful, and even popular. Is'o nation has 
 a bolder projector, or more liberal patron, of internal improve- 
 ments. He is reconstructing the city of Cairo. Five years hence, 
 it will no more resemble the Grand Cairo of the Saracenic age 
 than modern Paris resembles the Paris of Louis Quatorze. He 
 has already extended the Alexandria and Cairo Railroad one 
 hundred and fifty miles t iward lT[>i)er Egypt, and is intent u])on 
 carrying it to the Soudan, the extreme southern province in his 
 dominions. \Ve have already spoken of his niuniticence to the 
 Suez Canal, but these im])rovements are jn'osecuted by him in his 
 political character. Individually, he is the largest laiul-projirietor 
 and greatest agricidturist in Egypt. They tell us that he owns 
 '/iie-tit'th of the tillable land of the country. In this distinct private 
 iliaracter he has a private treasury, and credit in the financial cir- 
 iles of Europe. His wealth is estimated in billions. The claim 
 that is made tor him, that he is the richest man in the world, is not 
 incredible. What is nuu'e marvellous is, that he superintends his 
 pcr-sonal estate as well as public aft'airs. 
 
 2fa.j :-'/(.— Soon after the Khedive left us last evening, Betts 
 l!ey connnunicated the invitation of the Khedive to the ladies of 
 "ur party, to visit the harem at the palace of the Khedive's niothei', 
 'he Princess Validi'', at the Kasr Ali. at eleven o'clock to-day. 
 
 3.-) 
 
^" 
 
 ;J4 
 
 ECJYIT ANT) I'ALKSTINE. 
 
 
 
 % 
 
 
 
 
 .1 
 
 1 
 
 There was a diflicuilty, for the ladies, after eo many months' trnvil. 
 were reduced to bhick or white mornin<; costumes. Althou'^h no 
 coh)r or form of dress w's prescribed in the invitation, we leanio'l 
 tliat on no account would black be aUowed. A itrcjudicc, citluT 
 national or rcli<i;ious, prevails in the liarem, that, if any misfortune 
 occurs in the palace within a period of six months after a black 
 dress or trimming has been worn there by any ('hristian woman, 
 the visitor is responsible for it. Thr()U<^h the help of our countrv- 
 woman Mrs. Stone, the necessary dresses of blue and lavender 
 were jn'ocurcd, and the ladies repaired to Kasr Ali atteiuled by a 
 i,^overncss of the younpj princess, and by l>etts Dcy. Tv/o compn 
 nies of Nubian troops, which guarded the hi^h arched gate of the 
 outer walls, presented arms as the party entered. Crossiii^r a 
 broad i)aved court, they received similar honors at the second /^'ato, 
 ami again at the third gate. Here lietts J>ey stopped, and tlic 
 Udics, as they alighted from the carriage, Avere met by eight jet- 
 blade eunuchs in Egyptian uniform, and conducted through a beau- 
 tiful garden to the vestibule of the palace. As they approadicil 
 the vestibule, they saw that it was filled with young ('ircassian 
 slave-girls, dressed in gay-colored gauzes and muslins, pome wit!i 
 little turban-hats. Two of those, wearing richer dresses than t!i'.- 
 others, and displaying many diamonds, took each of the visitoiv, Iiv 
 t!ie hand, and conducted them through endless corridors and f^alon-- 
 the slaves following. These corridors and chambei-s wcic liii' 
 iiished with carpetf? of velvet, curtains of damask and lace, mHii 
 sofas and divans, great mirrors and crystal chandeliers, but woiv 
 destitute of such works of art and articles of irrfu as are (rccmcl 
 indispensable in a palace of the West. With this attendance, tliev 
 were at last ushered into a saloji not inferior in dimensions or con- 
 struction to the East Room of t!io White House. The Princov 
 Valide is the iirst lady of the state, taking precedence of the vici- 
 roy's wives and daughters, all of whom are called prince.^^ON 
 When the ladies entered, she was reclining on a divan at the far- 
 3 her end of the hall, one of the "princess-wives" sitting near licr. 
 and sixty slave-girls formed in a crescent-shaped group at her id; 
 haiid. The women who followed the guests arranged thenisehc; 
 
TIIK KIlf:i)IVi:'S IIAKKM. 
 
 :>'.):> 
 
 V months' travel. 
 
 19. AUllOUj;l> Iln 
 
 iition, we k'siruo.l 
 , |)ivju<li('e, citlitT 
 it' any nii^tortmu' 
 iiths uftcr a black 
 Christian woiniui, 
 Ip of our t'oiintry- 
 )l\io and lavcniUr 
 Ali attended l>y ;i 
 r>ey. 'i'^^'*' t'oinpa- 
 ^irc'hed gate of tho 
 :ercd. Croysin},' :i 
 at the Bccond ^iite. 
 y stopped, and tlic 
 3 met by eight jet- 
 ■tcd through a boiiu- 
 \,-4 they appvoaclR<l 
 li young C'iri'i\s:^ian 
 muslins, r-oine witli 
 icr dres>es th:>u tli'.' 
 eh of the visitiMv, by 
 |c'orri(h)rs and salon-- 
 c'hand)ors were fur- 
 ,nusk and laco, i^atin 
 ihundclicrs, but ^velv 
 rcrtn as are (tccnicd 
 his attendance, they 
 In dimensions or ctm- 
 louse. The Princo>^ 
 •ccedcnce of the vice- 
 i-c called priiiccssON 
 ,n a divan at tiic far- 
 es '' sitting near kv. 
 ped gn)up at lier IcK 
 arranged theniselvc- 
 
 ill a corresponding halt'-cirdo on the opposite side. The vi.-itors 
 mlvanced between tho two groups toward the divan, and were 
 received by her Iliglmess standing. Her dark eyes are sharp, her 
 face oxjjressivo of great cleverness, her voice clear and i>lc'asanl. 
 Slie received the ladies with perfect courtesy, and presented them 
 to the ])rineess at her side, and then invited them to seats on her 
 Kl't. Tho princess was dressed in a long wliite satin skirt which 
 L'dvcred her feet, and a black-velvet jacket with long pointed 
 Turkish sleeves. A fold of violet saHn, witii variegated l»order, 
 wa? fastened around her head with a band of diamonds, the whole 
 surmounted with a solltalr''. diamond of immense size. A lar<re 
 aiL'daliion likeness of the Khedive, set in diamonds, was fastened 
 like a "decoration " on the left lapel of her jacket; an enormous 
 diamond graced the first finger of her left hand. 
 
 The princess-wife wore a green-silk dress with lace, hat, gloves, 
 boots, and fan, which nmst have been lately imported from Paris 
 (•r London, and her light-brown hair was dressed in the latest Pa- 
 risian fashion. The harem-ladies confess being very partial to the 
 European Diodes. They have already ordered outfits from London, 
 with the request that they may be counterparts of the t/'ousscan of 
 the Princess Louise. The conversation was in Arabic, the English 
 l;i(ly-governes3 acting as ijiterpreter. After an exchange of com- 
 pliments, which were perha[)3 no more commonplace tlian is usual 
 in such occasions in other countries, the slave-girls brought on a 
 ;:okleii salver iced water, Turkish and Egyptian conserves, among 
 which were sugared rose-leaves in enamelled cups, with golden 
 spoons' that might serve a fairy, then chibouques, one of which was 
 I'tFcrcd to each lady. The bowl of the chiboucpie is of the red clay 
 if Egypt, the stem, five feet long, of the fragrant Danubian wilhtw, 
 with an amber mouth-piece eight inches long. The Princess Vali- 
 ne's chib-uque had a jasmin-stem and mouth-piece of black and)er 
 profusely set with diamonds. Etiquette forbids a guest to decline 
 t!ie chibouque, which is smoked by allowing the bowl to rest in a 
 Muall silver tray on the floor. "With the chibou<pte came delicious 
 (^■offee, black, and flavored with the attar of roses. The princess- 
 mother explained the condition of the slave-women. She says they 
 
536 
 
 EGYPT AXD PALESTINE. 
 
 ^ I 
 
 • •• ■ b| 
 
 
 I!. ,1 
 
 iii: • 
 
 are broni:;lit from tlieir native land when (|iute youn<jf, and are pro 
 vided with liusbands and dowries. " Tliey are very lucky,'' sho 
 said, with a laiiich. Two hundred were seen on this occasion. 
 They are neither pretty nor gracet'td, and appeared, as they went 
 throuj^a tlieir ceremonial attendance, like the chorus-.sin<4ers ota 
 (xermau opera-troupe. The ])rincess-wile said that she was In mi 
 V^'ircassia, without mentionin*;- that she had been a slave. " AVc 
 i .;'.< set no more slaves from my beautiful country " she addctl. 
 u ith a sijj^h, " since the Russians have taken it." It is (juite usual 
 for the viceroy to choose a wife anion<i; the slaves. When married, 
 they become princesses, their former state bein<j; for<fotten. Hi- 
 yond these details, voluntarily given, the conversation was littk' 
 more than a catechism of the guests on frivolous subjects, such as; 
 '•Ilowoltl arc vou ? How many brothers and how many sisters 
 have you i What are their ages ( Are you nuirried i Why imt : 
 Are vou <;oiti<]: to be^ How old is ]\fr. Seward^ AVhat docs iu' 
 travel fori How many sons has hoi How old are they i lluw 
 many of theni are married '{ Has he any graiulchildrcn i How oU 
 are they ^ How many are boys, how many are girls i" — and thr 
 like. The conversatioii betrayed a provincial deference for tin 
 Sultan's harem, and for 8tand)oul. Ten girls now entered wiih 
 vi(»liiis, citherns, and other instrinnents, and, arranging tliciii- 
 solvi's in a civscent, gave some very sweet music. When this \v,'> 
 euded, ten other t'ircassian girls came forward, in short pink-aiid- 
 white satin drosses, covered with silver lace and si>angKs, Ihml' 
 white-satin Turkish trousers and I'rench boots, and began a dame 
 tiiat, with shoi't intervals iu which thev rested and the <riic>t> 
 drank coll'ce, lasted thi'ce hours. These avti.stcs were soniewliiit 
 prettier than the slave-girls in direct attendance on the prince sso. 
 and they niadi! a marked disjilay of their luxuriant blond liair. 
 The Princess A'alide told us that, since the ladies of the liart'iii 
 wen* allowi'd to sei; the Kurctpean opera and ballet at the theatre 
 in Alexamlria, they have lu'come (piite disgusted with the iiativt' 
 performances of their (»wn ('(umtry. In onr judgment, however. 
 the "shawl-dance," rendei'cd by the Circassian slaves, is as gran- 
 f d as any Kuropcan b:dlet. a:id is entirely \iiiobjecti(»naI)lc. I' 
 
LIFE IX THE HAREM. 
 
 53; 
 
 unj;, and are pro 
 very I'lt-ky," tlie 
 on this ofcasiuii. 
 ired, as they went 
 ,'horus-sin<i;ers of a 
 hat she was tVinii 
 iu a shive. " Wu 
 ntrv " she a(hk'd, 
 ' It is (luite usuiil 
 5. AVhen niarrit'd. 
 i<r tor<j;otten. la- 
 ersation was littk' 
 3 su\)jeets, such as ; j 
 [ how many si^rtfiv 
 irried i AV!»y n.^t : 
 d i AVhat th>cs k' 
 ,,1 are they i How 
 ;hihhvn^ How (4il 
 •c Lfirlri i"— and tlif 
 1 delercn'-e lor tlif 
 now entered wiili 
 1, arranjiinic tlu'in- 
 ;ic, AVhcu this w,'^ 
 , in short pink-ainl- 
 anil si>an^'K'S, 1"|i,l' 
 , and hc.j;:in a dimv 
 t.'d and the }riio>t^ 
 ■.vA'.s- were sonu'wliat 
 (' (»n the priniTSsi'N 
 iMU-iant hlond li:iii'. 
 ladies of tlie h:irtMii 
 ,;,ll,.t at the thcMtiv 
 sted witli the iiativr 
 jud.ii'inent, littwi'vcr. 
 I Hlaves, is as gnur- 
 iniohjectionalile. I'i 
 
 taking leave, the Princess Valide cordially invited the ladies to 
 renew their visit. In passing through the antechamber, deliciously 
 delicate iced sherl)ets were served in golden goblets, then a large, 
 i;old-end)roi(lered an<l fringed nuislin nij)Uin was tendered to each 
 ^'uest, with which she touched her lips, and ])assed on. The slave- 
 tniins, in crescent i)latoons, followed through the corridors to the 
 vostil)ule, bringing to the visitors their cloaks, smoothly folded, in 
 ptM-fumed satin b:igs. The eunuch guards made the same homage 
 to the guests as when they entered, and the inseparable and invalu- 
 ii'de IJetts Hey was at the gate. 
 
 Luly Mary Wortley Montagu's incomparable letters were, we 
 think, the first revelatioi'. of harem-life to Western society. Tliev 
 in;iile that life seem innocent and attractive. It wears the same as- 
 port in the ^'Arabian Nights' Entertainments." It is not sti-ange that 
 it should nud<e that imp.*(>ssion on occasional visitors, who seeoiilv 
 its olegnneo and repose, while tlu? jealousies, vici', and ci'ime, whicli 
 it so often develops, are concealed. We have been content to .-peak 
 iif what we saw, and as wi' saw it. The princess-nu>tlier seemed a 
 matron who would he held in respect in any court or in any social 
 ciivh'. Notwithstanding tlii' assurance she gave us, c(»neerning the 
 I'dac.ition of the Circassian slaves, they seemed, without exicpfioii, 
 illiterati' and dnll. While the harem betra\ed notliing of ini- 
 iiKindity or imi)ropriety, all the inmates except the Princess X'alide 
 sccnu'd simply idle and frivolous. There is, however, much reason 
 tohilieve that, if the life is capa1)le of elevation and relinenu'iit, it 
 will assume that character under the directi(»n (»f the |>resent emu- 
 lous and enlightened Khedive, who is having his danghters tnuned 
 hy Kaiglish governesses, and his sons by l-'rench and Kngli.>li pro- 
 fcwors. I''r(un our stand-jioint, the harem is the last school to be 
 clioson for the education of wives and mothers, of rulers and states- 
 nuMi. AVe see m)thing her(> to shake our conviction that the 
 system of earlv Jewish i)(dvi;amv is rendered m»»re eomidetelv 
 doi,'iM(ling to wonum as well as to man by its eondtiuation with 
 Miiliiuumedan sensuality and jealousy. 
 
 We canm)t leave this subj(M't without instituting a comparison 
 hc'twc.'U pcdygainy in Kgy]>t and polygamy at ISalt Lake. llap])ily. 
 
r)-".!^ 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 ft?** 
 
 "I 
 ^ I 
 
 f^ 
 
 il. 
 
 I*: 
 
 11 
 
 the institution as established in Utah is tree from the odious slave- 
 trade in women, bv which the harems in the East, tVvr a thousau.l 
 years, have been supplied by ('ireassia. Happily woman, un the 
 American Continent, has never been cursed with that odious and 
 disixustiui^ class of police which the eastern harems have had fmiii 
 the <lawn of human history; happily still, the forced atteni[tt lu 
 rc^'stablish the in;^titutiou in Utah is attended by the necessity ut' 
 Cilncatini!; the children, if not the inmates of the harem, up to the 
 standard of civilized Christiui countries. From this contrast, \v,> 
 think we may iider: hrst, that the wretched institution of jiolyu. 
 amy is essentially and lavorably modiiicd at Salt Lake; and sccinid, 
 that, even with such modilications, it catinot lon«!; be maiutaiiioi 
 there or elsewhere. 
 
 i:./^..i 
 
 A ornt. OK cAiiiK. 
 
CIlAPTETl III. 
 
 CAJliO AXD THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 Tlic Roa<l to t]i(> PyraiTiidi^. — Tlu' Style ol ilie Viceroy. — Iiitiii>)r of tlte rucat Pyramid. 
 — Tlie S|)lii;ix. — Maiielle I'ey. — I'se iit' tlie I'yi ainitis. — liiiimcioiis Arulis— The 
 rhienix. — Tlie Site of On. — Ruins ot lleliopolis. — The Tree of the Holy I'aniily.— 
 .MolKumnei! Taiiphik. — The Anieiieans in Kgypt. — The Citadel of ("airo. — A Museum 
 (if Anti(Hiitie.-. — Modern Cniio. — The Copts. — The Niloineter. — The Toinhs ol iho 
 Caliphs. — The t.'vnieleric.s of Cairo — The Mosques. — The Uaneiug D.ivislie.-. — tihe- 
 i:ireh. — Polygamy. — The Cairo ol' To-day. 
 
 Iu(!<r 2fii(?Jh\ M<(;/ Wi. — We luivn given the day tu llie Pyra- 
 
 iniil;;. Tliey de.served it, as lliey have e.vhausted it. I'l-oiii the 
 
 liiiit", twenty -tivo hini(h"ed years ago, Mhen the (Jreek iiivt e.\- 
 
 |il(»r(il Kgypt, until jiust now, a vi^it to the ]\nunids was a lah(f 
 
 riitii.-^ nndertaking. Whether the traveller advanced toward them 
 
 iVniii Alexandria, or only i'roin Caint, an infinite ])rep:;ration, of 
 
 hn.iis, and guides, and eamels, ol' donkeys led and donkeys driven, 
 
 (if tent.-, and provisittiis, for a tedious and circuitous joiu'ncy among 
 
 the (Ukes and lauals of the Nik*, was recjiiisite. iS'uw, all this 
 
 is changed, or at least it has heen changed for us. 'I'lie Khe- 
 
 iliv", in i)rej)aring for the Suez-Canal eeh'hratiou, built a high, em- 
 
 liaiiked road, across the valley of the Nile, to tlie very foot of the 
 
 I'yramid.s planting it with full-grown shade-trees. He constructed 
 
 lUo a fine kiosk, lit the l)ase of the Pyramids, in th.e desert. Tliese 
 
 iaiiirtivements are ];oj>ularly said to have hvn\ matle as an e.'i])ccial 
 
 I'ourtosy to the Emi)ress Eugenie. AN'e, iiowever, have jjarticijiated 
 
 ill their benefits, just as we did in the use of the pier which was 
 
540 
 
 ECiYlT AND I'ALESn^i^. 
 
 built tor the Duke of Edinburgh, at E!o; >i;iutct. i.i hu^a. A\\ 
 iiiado tlie joiiniev, froia our house to the I';, fiiuiitls, u open l)a- 
 rouclics, with four horses and postiliojis. Wu notice lu le a ])rac- 
 tical dilferencc in the style maintained by the British Viceroy of 
 India and that of the native Viceroy of Egy])t. T!ie former <lresscs 
 his postilions in the brilliant colors and j^raceful costumes of llic 
 East, and caparisons his horses In leo[)ar(l and ti<i:er skius. The 
 IChedivo copies the aAvkward liveries and tra})ping-s ( '" the We>t: 
 his postilions are Frcncli jockeys. 
 
 a 
 
 
 Mm.' *•■* 
 
 » V, 
 
 
 k: 
 
 V. I'WI.VMIDH Ol lil/.KIl. 
 
 (M- 
 
 \i 
 
 *-iik 
 
 % 
 
 The TVramids have not disappointed us, as they do most trav 
 lers. Even at the jL^reatest distance they do not seem diminutive. 
 We had reason to re<;i'et, however, that the Khedive's hi-i-liway 
 did not continue into the interior of the great Pyrandd of Clicojis. 
 1'he only entrance is by an ajierture which tlu' (irceks found 
 hermetically sealed, and which is now partially opened. This 
 aperture is now forty feet above the ground, and is reached only 
 by clind)ing the outer wall. 15y the dim light admitted tliroiii;li 
 the ai)crture, we descended to the interior of the ]>yramid liy 
 an inclined plane perhaps forty feet, and then, turning at riirlit 
 
THE SPHINX. 
 
 541 
 
 iii .(u<'i:i. ^V^ 
 \\iU, u "pen l);i 
 ticc \u vii a i)rac- 
 ritish Viceroy of 
 lie ionuer (Iitsso.-; 
 [ costumes of tlu.' 
 ;isrcr skins. Tlic 
 ny-ii (V the We-t; 
 
 fc* 
 
 
 ley do most tnivol- 
 
 scem diniinutivi'. 
 
 ;iie(live"H lii;jcli\vin- 
 
 nunid of ('lu'o|i;i. 
 [lie (Jreeks f'Uiid 
 llv opened. 'I'liii^ 
 
 il irt reached <iiil\ 
 liuhnitted tlirouirli 
 
 the ]»yr:iniid I'v 
 {m-ning at riirlit 
 
 nnirles, by anotlicr inclined plane a hiiu'lred feet, co\orcd ;in^:'e- 
 (loep with the sands accuinulat ,'d for a^es. Here the ii'uides lighted 
 torches, and, niakinj; a z:<^za<jf way ri^ht and left, we walked half 
 heat alon^ other planes, until we entered, thruiigii a very nar- 
 row door, the lowest explored apartment in the ]n raudd, called the 
 "Queen's Chamber." It is perhaps twelve feet s(]nart'. The M'alls 
 ;ire of hi^-hly-polished red granite. The chand)er is dark, silent, 
 luul vacant. From it, by upward ways m)t less perplexing than 
 (bingerous, we ascended to the greater apartnu'iit, called the 
 "King's Chamber,'' thirty feet by twenty, the walls like those of 
 the '* Queen's ('hamber." Near one eiul of the room is an innneuse 
 iipeu sarcophagus, also of red grainte. It was doubtless pre])ared 
 to receive the renuuns of the builder of the pyninnd. I'ut history 
 tells of no i'clies contained in it. It is exactly in the condition now 
 ill which the first explorers described it two thousand years ago. 
 The feeblest utterance in either chaud)er produces stunning echoes 
 iVuin the stupendous walls. The architects evidently had no idea 
 (if ventilation. Instead of coniing back as strong as when they 
 inlcred the " King's Chamber," the ladies, (pdte unconscious, were 
 literally borne out by the sturdy Arab guides. 
 
 The Sphinx, however, is the most attractive of all the monu- 
 ineuts. It is more than sixtv feet hiuh, its Innnan head more than 
 twelve feet long, the nose four feet long, the month two feet wide. 
 Aniia'ology bears little testinu)ny eonceridng the coi)ceiiti(»u of 
 the Sphinx. It was built after the I*yrannd of Che>i)s. Most of 
 ihe imnnnerable pictures of the S])hinx arc in ]>roiile. A i'rout 
 view shows that the face, esjM'cially the nose, has been mutilated. 
 Nevertheless the exju'ession is one of supreme beingnity. The 
 Sphinx does not seem to wonder while it excites the wonder of the 
 lii'holder. The effect cannot be conceived unless, together with tlu- 
 cnlossul Hgnre itself, w; bring up its associations. Taken with 
 these, the grim gigantic Pyrannds, the indetinalde ilrhris, and the 
 ditiidless, tre(dess, linutless sterility of the scene, and th(\v awaken 
 in the heh(dder imagimitiotis of events aiid of luen of whom 
 meiiiorv, history, and tra<liti(»ii, alike fail to imi)art anv knowledge. 
 Miiiiette ik'v, an indefatigable anticiuarv in the Khe(live's service. 
 
542 
 
 EGYPT AND TALESTINE. 
 
 
 
 t'J 
 
 <r 
 
 •x-j 
 
 has within the last six years excavated an area between Cheup-; 
 and the Sphinx, in whicli lie iuund a subterranean teinj)le. Wo 
 explored it. It is one story high, built entirely of red granite, 
 
 nil; MIIINX. 
 
 
 Aviihout arches, inscriptions, ornaments, j)aintin<i;, or scul|)taro 
 y kind. It contains ten spacious chambers, all opeiiiui; ii 
 
 an 
 
 I -a' 
 
 h other. Mariette liey has been unable to form an opiiiiini 
 V, j'.L'ther this temple was designed as a jilacc of worship of the 
 renuiins of the kings interred in the Pyramids, or whether it is i 
 tenij^le erected for the woi-ship of tin; god Anaraches, who is sii]i 
 posed by some anticjuarii's to be re]>resented l)V the Sphinx. 
 
 No iinsophisticatetl ]>ersoii, who for the first time sees the V\n 
 mids, the sarcophagus of Cheops, the newly-disclosed temple, anJ 
 
THE PYHAMIDS. 
 
 r<43 
 
 I between Choui.s 
 leiiu temple. Wo 
 ;ly of red y'vauito, 
 
 ■ -■■...• •**<.» ij4D!-t»*, 
 
 
 • "\'^-^-w 
 
 r''''''#l^& 
 
 t^^ii^^S;^ 
 
 "^v^^ ' '**" ~i ' '^S^'^Ss*^^ 
 
 "' •■••''^^^^S 
 
 
 Evt*:is:. • iS^>--J,v.tv?t?f%2 
 
 
 .^'fs-i;3^«» 
 
 tiujr, or sculpture nt 
 I'l-s, :>11 (»l>enii>i!; in'" 
 t,) tonii an oY\\\m 
 Ico of worship of the 
 Iri, or wlictluT it i.^ I 
 iiiinu'hes, who is sup- 
 l)V the S\)hinx. 
 st time sees the Pyr.v 
 ulisL'Ux^cd teniplo, imJ 
 
 t!io Sphinx, can for a moment donht that they are sinij)ly se[.n!ehres 
 of the c'ead, safe depositories, where the embahned bodies of the 
 kin^s mif;ht rest in secure conceahncnt during their a])pointed term. 
 We know from liistory that the ancient Egyi)tians believed, after a 
 manner, in the resurrection ol the dead. They believed that the 
 (lei)arted spirit would pass throui;h a series of migrations in inferior 
 animal forms, more or less happy or miserable according to tlieir 
 deeds, when living as men; that this period of migration would 
 (oiitmue three thousand years, and at the expiration of that term 
 they v.'oulu return and resume the bodies they had originally in- 
 habited, and enter into a new existence on the earth. In accord 
 ;iiu'c with this belief arose the ancient Egyptian custom of end)alm- 
 nvj, the b(Klies of the dead, and of ])reserving them in cases which 
 cxrluded the air antl other elements, and depositing them thus ])ro- 
 tcctcd in dry, rocky caverns, hermetically sealed so as to defy the 
 prving search of man and beast. 
 
 Our exploration of the Pyramids was not altogether free from 
 the experience of which travellers always complain. A crowil of 
 liipacious Arabs gathered fmni the di-nial hovels of the villaucs 
 aiuuiul, who continually demand a htichf-luish for services w'.iich 
 were oflicions and unsolicited. Half a do/.en of thene at every point 
 (ihstructed our way, umler the pretence of !^howing it. ( )ne jilanted 
 liiiusclf at the foot of the Sphinx to serve as a standard by which to 
 nicasme its height. If you refuse thi-ir oiler to carry you to the toj) 
 of the Pyramid^, they run up the steep acclivity them.selves like so 
 many lizards. Vou decline their snjiport in walking through the 
 s;ui(ls; they compensate themselves lor the denial by telling you 
 liDW the Pyramids and the Sjihinx were raised in a single night. 
 Xdtwithstanding these annoyances, our excursion was sui-cessful, 
 and ended with a pleasant entertainuient in the luxui'ious kiosk. 
 
 Cairo, Ma;/ \*^f/t. — Herodotus says, in his account of the Egyp- 
 tians: " They have also another sacred i)ird, which, excei>t in a pic- 
 ture, I have never seen, and which is called the plnenix. . . . At'cord- 
 inijto the TIeliopolifans, it comes there but once in five lumdred 
 ycaiv, and then at the decease of the parent-bird. If it have any 
 
.544 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 ■'■■1 
 
 I 
 
 H 
 
 
 roscinblaiu'c to its ])i('tnrcs, tlic \vinu;s are partly of a cjold-coltr ii!i(] 
 partly of a riiby-color, and in foi-iii and size it is perfectly lilcc the 
 C'i<i;le. . . . They say tliat it eonies from Arabia, to tlie Tempji' of 
 the Sun, bearini>^ the dead body of its ])arent enclosed in niyiiii, 
 wbicli it buries. It makes a ball of myrrli shaped lilce an eiri:', a> 
 l.ir!jje as it is able to earry, whicb it proves by experiment; this 
 done, it excavates the mass, and introduces the liody <»f the diid 
 bird. It closes the aperture witii myrrh, and the whole becoinos 
 of the same weight as when comj)osed only of myrrh. It then ]ii'o. 
 cceds to E<;y])t to the Temple of the Sun.'' 
 
 We drove this morning to the site of ancient On, otherwise 
 called rJeth-shemosh (Ileliopolis), ten miles nortkeast from Ciiird. 
 twenty miles from ancient Memphis. Of course we found there n,. 
 "images," "no bouse of the sun," no city of Ileliopolis, no i)li(r 
 uix, nor the grave of any 
 
 " lonely bird 
 Who siiiL'^* iit tlio last Ills own doiitli-Iny, 
 Ami in music aiul pcrt'iunc dies iiway."' 
 
 "\\niat we did find is a ]>lain, M'ith here and tliere a low mouiKi 
 of }>u]vori/ed bricks. There is a <lis[iute whether these 7//«/v'v;iiv 
 the ruins of the Temple of the Sun or of tlie walls of the city. A 
 monolith obelisk of red granite rises between two of the nioumls. 
 It is sixty-eiglit feet high, and bears an hieroglyphic inscriiitidii 
 which recites a date two thousand and eightv years before our cm. 
 An Arabian historian of the middle aires describes another niic, 
 which stood near the ])resent (»belisk, as an embellishment of the 
 Temple of the Sun. The ground at the base of the existing ohcli^l; 
 lias been excavated, and the pedestal is found buried to tlic depth 
 of six feet. It is inferred from this fact that the plain of the Xilr 
 here has been raised by its inundations six feet in four thoiisaml 
 years. On the west and south sides of the monument the hec^ 
 have made honev-comb dwellintrs, whi;-h eompletelv cover tli' 
 inscriptions. The ])lain north of Ileliopolis is strewed with ni(l>. 
 easily detected as having been formed by petrifaction, <d' fallen ainI 
 broken trees. It bears the euphonious name of the *' Petrilii. 1 
 
AMKlilCANS IN EGYPT. 
 
 54.> 
 
 )[' a i»;olil-c.*«>l(>r ami 
 pi'i-tW-tly like the 
 to tlie Toinpl' .pf 
 [;ncl<)SiJ<l in iiivnli. 
 pod like an cjri!:, a> 
 ' cxporinicnt ; lliis 
 ! body of the dead 
 the whole hccoiue-; 
 yrrh. It then pm- 
 
 lent On, othovwise 
 )rtlieiist tVoin Cains 
 3 we found thefc no 
 [Icliopolis, no I'lnr 
 
 h-Iny, 
 
 ay." 
 
 tliei'o a iow niouni 
 her these (h'hi!'< arc 
 dls of the city. A 
 two of the niouiiil>. 
 (•tdyphif ii.srriiitittii 
 vcavs before our vn. 
 icribes another niii'. 
 .nd)eUislunent of tlir 
 the existini:;ohiTi4; 
 buried to the depth 
 the ])lain of the Nile 
 iH't in f<»nr thnii>a!!tl 
 monument the boe^ 
 m])letely eovia- tlii> 
 f^ strewed with reckN 
 faction, of falU'H luni 
 lie of the " P<'triii^"l 
 
 ['(/rest." This is all that remains of On, where Joseph found hi.>< 
 wife — of that Beth-sheme.sh a<;ainst whieh .lereniiah prunouneed 
 the curse — all that remains of that Teiiijile of the 8un, which wa.>* 
 the cliosen cemetery of the Arabian phcjL'uix, and later was the 
 school where Solon, Eudoxis, and Plato s-tndied. 
 
 On our return to ('airo we .stoi)ped at Mataria ; here arc the 
 roniains of a "garden, in which, according to Coptic tradition, 
 accepted by the Uomaii Church, was the home of the Virgin, the 
 Holy Child, and Joseph, in their tlight from the dreadful decree 
 (if Iferod. Tliev showed us here, not only the very sycanu)re-treo 
 
 A. f t' I' 
 
 wliicli allbru 'd shade to the Jluly Family, but a mitural sorin;; in 
 which the linen of ihe Diyine Infant was ^yashed. We arc to)d 
 that the Klu'-diye ])resented the tree to the Empress Eui>vnie. Wo 
 are thankful that she did not remove it, so as to deju'ive us of the 
 pliy.-^ical and moral virtue, if any, which its foliage imparts. 
 
 This morning visits were exchanged between j\Ir. Seward and 
 Mohammed Tau])hik, eldest son iind heir-a])parent of the Khedive, 
 lie is about twenty, handsonu', intelligent, and carefully educated 
 liv Eurojican masters. We learn that his sagacious lather, not- 
 withstanding religious prejudices, insists upon Tauphik's mingling 
 tVeely with Euro})ean society. ^Ir. Seward is also visited by the 
 Khedive's ministers, some one auu)ng them dining at Kasr Mudjii 
 every day. Cherif Pucha, })resi(lent of the Council of State, and 
 liriine-minister, is a very able Jind sagacious statesman. Noubar 
 Parlia, Minister (»f Foreign All'airs, is an Armenian Christian, spir- 
 itod and well inh)rined, but somewhat resiless under the restraint 
 imposed on the Khedive's govei'ument by the Christian powers, as 
 well as by the r)ttoman Porte. 
 
 The Americans in Egypt are a mixed though interesting 
 liuniiv. The Khedive is reoi'gani/.iug his armv on the Western 
 system of evolutions and tactics. l"or this purj)ose he has taken 
 the loyal (ieneral Stone as chief-of-stalf, and the loyal (Jeneral 
 Mott as aide-de-camp, and with these some eight or ten mditary 
 men who distinguished themselves in the Confederatt^ army. All 
 "f these Americans visited Mr. Seward to-day. While he e\])ressed 
 1 ride and satisfaction in finding his countrymen thus honorably 
 
 I • 
 
 \ 
 
 i 
 
r,4«{ 
 
 KdYPT AND PAI,E>^TINK. 
 
 trusted and emjdoyod in a forcii^u service, he nevertheUss 
 remarked, witii cliaracteristic tenacity, that he disapproved aiui 
 himented a jtroscriptive policy at lioine, which exiled even former 
 leliels to foreign lands ; I»nt it was (hie to tlie Anierican people to 
 confess that, in no other civil war, had the victorions i»arty praj- 
 tised so <jjrc.it magnanimity as the party of the Union has done. 
 
 I* •' 
 
 »■ . 
 
 1 
 
 
 \i 
 
 Hi* ^ ' ^» 
 
 urn ■ I . I 
 
 J/'t'/ 11///. — Alth;)U<rh the citatlel of Cairo has hcen lenderod 
 nnrcliahle as a fortress, it very justly excites admiration. Like 
 tliose of India which we saw, it is a cond)ination of fortiticatioiis, 
 palaces, and m()S(pies. It stands on a rocky blulf of the desert, 
 three hundred feet above the Nile, and, while it overlooks the 
 entire city, it commands a view not only of the Pyrannds of (Jizcli. 
 bnt also those of Lucena, and a view of the Nile, from ancient 
 Memphis, far down the Delta. A well which supplies water to the 
 citadel is an object of much curiosity and interest. It was c\i;i- 
 vated by Salah-ed-dyn (Saladin), otlmrwise known as Yussof-cbti- 
 Ayonb, and from him called Joseph's well. It is two hundred aini 
 seventy feet deep, and consists of two stories or chand)crs. Th^' 
 water is raised from the bottom one hundred and twenty feet into 
 the ch:unber, worked by men stationed at the bottom. Thoiico 
 it is broui^ht to the top of the well by another mechanical process. 
 A windinir staircase leads from top to bottom. Po])uIar s!ii)er.sti- 
 tion, sei/.ini; on the lepjendary history of the patriarch .losepli, luni: 
 regarded him, and not Saladin, as the Vnsscf who made the well; 
 and at last, by an exercise of still greater credulity, it has comets 
 be regarded, irrespective of toi)ographical evidence to the coiilrarv, 
 as the veritable "pit" into which Jacob's ]>ious son w;is thrown hy 
 his naughty brethren, in revenge for his having received a pretty 
 coat. 
 
 We see also in the citadel the court in Mdiich the ^ranicliikis 
 were treachcnuisly massacred by order of ]\r('hemet AH in hll, 
 The magniliccnt palace of Saladin. its audience-clKMubcr graced with 
 thirty-two majestic monolith columns, was injured thirty years 
 ago by an explosion which necessitated its removal. In its stcail 
 was built the last elegant palace of Mehemet Ali, which is new 
 
MOSQUE OF MKIIEMKT ALL 
 
 r>ir 
 
 tlic residence of the youn^ ]>riiu'c Mf)liainmc(l Taupliik. P.iit a 
 more iiiiposin*; iiiodein structure, however, in the cit.iiiel, is the 
 iii(i.-(iue of AEeheniet Ali, and the tomb of that jj:reat chief and 
 ruler. The n»os(iue, which, by reas(jn of its advantuueous t^ite, ita 
 grand dimensions, and its lofty dome and minarets, is the most 
 cuiispieuous and athiiired object in Cairo, is of purely Saraceni* 
 construction. AVitliin and witliout, inchidiiii,' walls, pavements. 
 (oUunn and dome, tlie material is ('riental alabaster. The 
 iiios(iues we saw in India, thou;;h many of them have a more ex- 
 (iui!>ite beauty, jiretend to no such t;nindeur as this mos(iiU' of ^le- 
 liemet Ali. An order from the Khedive (»pened it to us, not as 
 tourists, but ns j^uests. The remains of Mehemet Ali rest in aTi 
 iniinense alabaster sarcopha<^us, always covered with rich tajjestrv. 
 The cover was removed, and disclosed an elaborateness of work- 
 manship and inscriptions worthy of the restorer of K^ypt. 
 
 The Jews, in the time of the patriarchs, found K^'yi)t a store- 
 house of wheat ; the Greeks, at a later ])eriod, found it a store- 
 liouse of monuments and relics. AVith the loss of its ancient policy 
 (if "(overnment, and with the exhaustion, if not extirp.ation, of the 
 early races, tlie country has, since that time, been unable to defend 
 it>elf. much less to preserve those invaluable treasures. The West- 
 >:'u nations have been violent and rapacious in carry iuii; them away. 
 Monolith ixranitc obelisks and nicnolith sarcophaj^i of ))orphyry, 
 nut to speak of marble statuary, the spoils <»f K^^'pt, are found in 
 Constantinople, Rome, Naples, Pierlin, Paris, Amsterdam, and Lon- 
 ildU. The oi'iiaments of its queens, the dt»nicstic utensils of its 
 people, their provisions and medicines, and even its ( xhumed dead 
 in their jj;ravc-eh:)tlies and coffins, .ire exhibited in tlic same cai)italr, 
 •trluuvkod as spectacles over the civili/ed world for '' a shilling; a 
 sight, chi hi ren half ])ricc." Those who have no bettiM' oj)portunity 
 to examine the anti<|iilties of that wonderful country, may with 
 advantnjje study it in those stolen monuments and relics. 'J'hey 
 arc, however, iiiade(|uato to convey an exact idea of the ancient 
 civilization (.f I\i;yi>t. In re^Mrd to that study, they are what 
 zoological ^ij;ai'dcns are to the knowledge of foreigjn animal races, or 
 v.imt exotic jdants in a <i:reenhouse are to tropical vegetation. 
 
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 Sciences 
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 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. M5S0 
 
 (716) 873-4S03 
 
:>is 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 Ismail Pacha lias kept Mariette Bey well employed since 1863 in 
 the task of saving sucli of these invaluable relics as yet remain in 
 the country. The collection which has been made is not so vast 
 as the stores which are scattered in foreign countries, but is of 
 \'ast]y greater worth than any one of the foreign museums. The 
 monuments, tablets, hieroglyphs, images, ornaments, pictures, and 
 relics, which it contains, are seen here in the very region where 
 they were first produced, and in just relation to the diftcrent re- 
 gions of the country, and of the different eras of its history. 
 
 J/«y V2th. — We must drop the antiquities of Egypt for a day or 
 twf», and confine ourselves to modern times and the citv of Cairo, 
 
 
 5^ 
 
 
 ,11! 
 
 
 
 A STREET IN CAIRO. 
 
 It is a Mohammedan creation, ard was founded about a. d. 070 I)y 
 Moez, an Arab caliph from Western Africa, who called it El Knh'i- 
 rehf or " The A'^ictorious." Its first site was at Fostatt. eight mile- 
 
CITY OF CAIRO. 
 
 >4:9 
 
 Loycd since 1863 in 
 3S as yet remain in 
 made is not so vast 
 iountries, but is of 
 ign museums. Thu 
 ments, pictures, and 
 I very region where 
 to the different re- 
 of its history. 
 
 )f Egypt for a day or 
 nd the city of Cairo. 
 
 up the river. The original site is now called Old Cairo. The gov- 
 ernment transferred its seat from Old Cairo to the present city in 
 the twelfth century. Our visit to the old city was full of interest. 
 There is the "House of Light" (Kasr-celi-chaniu), which, like the 
 citadel at New Cairo, was at once a citadel and a palace of the first 
 ilnssulman rulers. From some unknown cause, this great Mussul- 
 man ruin has become the retreat and home of the Cojjts. Though 
 tliey have partially mixed their blood with their Nubian and Ara- 
 bian neighbors on either side, they are universally recognized as 
 the only true dcst'cndauts of the ancient Egyptian race. They ac- 
 cepted Christianity in the first century, and, ado]iting the asceti- 
 cism which was aft'ected by the disci[)le3 of our laith in that early 
 penod, they incorporated a church with a powerful hieraj'chy and 
 monastic institutions, the models perhaps of those institutions that 
 have so long existed throughout Christendom. They establislicd a 
 litany. Although now reduced in number to one hundred and 
 fifty thousand in Egypt, they still preserve their hiernrchy, those 
 monastic institutions, and that litany. In the great theological 
 dispute which distracted Christendom from the fourtl; century to 
 the tenth, they rejected equally the supremacy of 'tlie Patriarch at 
 Constantinople and that of the Bishop of Rome. In the main 
 thev go with the Roman Church in requiring celibacy for the clergy, 
 while they adhere with the Greek Church to the abstruse meta- 
 physical doctrines that, after the incarnation of the Saviiun*, His 
 nature was one, and not a double nature, and that the Holy Ghost 
 "proceeds," not "from the Father and the Son," but from the Fa- 
 ther alone. 
 
 The Copts have at least two convents, perhaps more, in the old 
 "House of Light." We visited that of St. George; a part of it is, 
 beyond all doubt, much older than modern Cairo. This part is a 
 cave, in which there is a Christian church, which contains carvings, 
 pictures, and inscriptions, illustrating the Nativity and the sojourn 
 of the Holy Family in Egypt. The Cojits universally hold to the 
 tradition that Joseph, Mary, and the chikl, dwelt in this cave, and 
 that the church was built on the consecrated place to preserve it. 
 The cave, or, as it is bore called, the grotto, is divided into three 
 
 !l 
 
!«*»♦«, 
 
 mm 
 
 i« 
 ••a 
 
 
 Mfc. 
 
 S^-5: 
 
 'I 
 
 tt^t; ^5^ 
 
 i « 
 
 
THE TOMBS OF CALIPHS. 
 
 551 
 
 
 
 <^- -^ 
 
 chambers, an outer, an interior, and a middle one. In the first is a 
 Coptic baptismal font ; in the second, M'ithln a niche, a stone bear- 
 ing the impress of the Saviour's foot ; in the third, a similar track. 
 The so-called Tombs of the Caliphs constitute a feature of Cairo 
 which no traveller neglects. They are situated just outside of the 
 Bab-el-Nini (Gate of Victory). They are the tombs, however, not 
 of the Mohammedan conquerors, but of their Mameluke successors. 
 These structures, like the imambarras of the Moguls, are mosques. 
 They are fine specimens of the Saracenic style, but have no pre- 
 tension to grandeur. Surrounded by the sands of the Desert, they 
 are falling to decay and dilapidation. Many of them contain fine 
 Arabesque wood-carvings. A visit to the sepulchres of the count- 
 less sovereigns of Fgypt may well make one doubt Mhether the 
 ambition to be rememberod after death is even wise. At least it is 
 possible to be remembered too long. Who cares now for Cheops, 
 even if his ashes still remain secure within his majestic tomb 'i 
 ^Vlio is there living now to honor or delight in the memory ot 
 Sesostris or Rameses? Wlio can envy the Mameluke Sultans, 
 whose tombs are resolving themselves into the sands cf the desert, 
 while their hated race has been extirpated from the country over 
 which they tyrannized ? 
 
 It was a relief, after an inspection of the tombs of the Mame- 
 lukes, to visit the modern cemeteries of Cairo. The ruling 
 family, and perhaps others, occasionally build mosques over their 
 tombs, but smaller and less imposing even tiian those of the Mame- 
 lukes. The Khedive has erected a mosque which covers the re- 
 mains of Said Pacha and other members of his family. Here, as in 
 most of the monumental mosques, prayers are hourly chanted, year 
 after year, by lay readers employed for that purpose. The tombs 
 arc invariably of white marble, gaudily painted in oil. A carved 
 tarboosh at the head of the monument indicates that the sleeper is 
 a man ; a veil, that it is a woman. 
 
 Cairo has three hundred mosques. This is only saying in an- 
 other way that Cairo is one of the most beautiful of all cities, inso- 
 much as the gentle slope of its site, from the desert to the river- 
 bank, allows every imposing structure its full effect ; and, of all 
 
552 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 "*■"'■ Via 
 
 
 
 
 architectural forms, the mosque, with its always graceful domes and 
 Blender minarets, is the most pleasing. The Mosque of Amrou, 
 lieutenant of the Caliph Omar, in the old city, built in 042, is not 
 only the oldest mosque of Cairo, but the oldest in the world. In a 
 state of dilapidation, enough only of the structure remains to give 
 an idea of its original grandeur and simplicity. The columuis of 
 
 M08<)UE AND HOUSES IN CAIRO. 
 
 
 granite and porphyry, which it borrowed from the temples of a 
 more ancient worship at Memphis, have disappeared, and the mar- 
 ble tablets, on which the full text of the Koran was written, liavo 
 gone with them. 
 
 Next after the Mosque of Mehemet Ali, already described, the 
 most important is that of Ahmcd-ebn-Souloun, built in 877, in tho 
 
THE MOSQUES OF CAIRO. 
 
 5 5. J 
 
 
 acefiil domes and 
 Mosque of Amrou, 
 built in C42, is not 
 in the world. In a 
 lire remains to give 
 J, The columns of 
 
 i-^--^ 
 
 trom the temples of a 
 ppeared, and the mai- 
 oran was written, have 
 
 I, already described, tlic 
 ^mi, built in 877, in tho 
 
 Ccarliest Saracenic style. It is two hundred feet by one hundred. 
 Another very ^rand mosque of Azliar, thoiii>-h built nine hundred 
 vcars ago, was repaired in 1072, and is in admirable preservation. 
 Its principal use, howerer, is not that of religious worship. It id 
 the most popular university in Egypt. The scientific course pur- 
 sued here embraces the Koran, versification, grammar, civil law, 
 commercial law, and ecclesiastical law. Two thousand students, of 
 different ages and sizes, sit on the floor in circles, whose circum- 
 ference is as regular as if they had been described by the com- 
 pass. They sit cross-legged, facing inward, while the professors 
 stand at convenient distances so as to hear and instruct several 
 circles. Each student has a book before him, and commits its text 
 to memory by rehearsal, constantly swinging backward and for- 
 ward during the exercise, not only the students in one circle, but 
 all the students in all ^'he circles rehearsing in chorus. "We inquired 
 ill which of the schools of philosophy of ancient Egypt this form of 
 instruction was instituted, but received no satisfactory answer. AVe 
 think it must have originated at the Tower of Babel ! 
 
 Mosques in Mohammedan cities, like temples in ])agan coun- 
 tries and churches in a Christian land, are so much alike, that wan- 
 dering through them becDKies monotonous, "Wje finished our tour 
 with a visit to a mosque of dancing dervishes. The mos(iuc is a 
 mule, unfurnished structure, containing one square room for men, 
 with a circular gallery for women. It is open to spectators, though 
 tl'w were present on this occasion. The brethren came into the 
 eliamher and took seats on the floor within the railing. They wore 
 a uniform habit, consisting of brown serge, extending from neck to 
 toot, with full skirt, and fastened with a girdle, and a roimd, high 
 hat made of gray felt. It was easy to sec that they arrayed them- 
 selves according to fixed order. The sheik entered and took his 
 seat on the floor, directly opposite to the lay members. His cos- 
 tume dift'ercd from theirs only in being of a purple color. AVhen 
 he had taken his seat, a brother rose, walked slowly around the 
 chamber, and made a salutation to the superior. Each other broth- 
 er followed performing the same ceremony. A strain of solemn 
 imisie, on the flute, Avas heard from an u])per recess, whereupon 
 
554 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTIXE. 
 
 the hrothers rose, one after another, and began a whirling motion, 
 at first slow, but gradually increasing in rapidity, the right arm 
 stretched upward and '■.he left correspondingly depressed, as a bai^ 
 
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 1>'TERI0K OF A MOSQUE, CAIBO. 
 
 ance. Their full, heavy skirts had weights at the bottom Avliicl; 
 held them down while they expanded like round sails with the 
 movement. This dizzy exercise continued until the entire body of 
 the brotherhood -were spinning around like so many tops, tlieir 
 dresses spreading out over their feet. The perfonnance had lastctl 
 as we thought, about an hour, when the music suddenly ceased, as 
 if the music'ans instead of the dancers had given out, and, on the 
 instant of the music ceasing, they came to a rest. Then tlicv 
 walked in solemn procession around the room, each making a 
 
GIIEZIREII. 
 
 555 
 
 a whirling motion, 
 ditv, the right arm 
 depressed, as a hal 
 
 at tVe bottom wliicl: 
 round sails with the 
 Ltil the entire body of 
 ke so many tops, tlielr 
 [lerfonnance had lasted. 
 isic suddenly ceased, as 
 given out, and, on the 
 |to a rest. Then they 
 I room, each making a 
 
 udam to the superior. All the dervishes were men of full age. 
 save one, a boy of twelve, who for some reason seemed to be held 
 ill great respect as a leader. lie whirled with gnjatcr gravity, if 
 possible, than his companions. We supi)08ed him to be designated 
 bv birth or some other cause for preferment. The dervishes 
 withdrew from the mosque without any manifestations of sancti- 
 mony, and, when we met them after the exercise^ , they seemed to 
 us as cheerful and business-like as mechanics and artisans. They 
 inade no show of mendicity. It would be a curious study to trace 
 to their source, in a common oiiuciple of human nature, the wor- 
 ship of the Shakers in our own country and that of the dancing 
 dervishes of the East. 
 
 Having been received by the Khedive and his family, and domi- 
 ciled in oie of the state palaces, it would have seemed to us a mani- 
 festation of unbecoming cm'iosity to visit the other viceroyal 
 residences. But the palaces of princes are objects of pride to them, 
 as villas, mansions, and cottages, are to humbler proprietors. The 
 Khedive intimated to us that the ladies ot his family would have 
 notice of our coming, and so our visits to the other palaces would 
 not take them by surprise. Most of these palaces are simpler and 
 plainer, and more after the European style, than we had supposed. 
 Sliobia is the most pleasant one. It is a palace built and arranged 
 in a quadrangular form, exclusively for social entertainments, and 
 encloses a lake of two or three acres, which is filled with curious 
 tishes, and rare aquatic birds. All its halls, corridors, reception- 
 rooms, banqueting-halls, billiard-rooms, and baths, connect with 
 each other. The Khedive has been especially lavish in enlarging 
 and emoellishing Ghezireh, which is the most favored home of the 
 princesses, although they always attend him wherever he resides or 
 sojourns. It was manifest, on arriving there, that the Khedive's 
 instruction for an admission had not yet reached the palace. The 
 Nubian eunuchs drew swords upon us. We sauntered in the gar- 
 dens while waiting for the necessary explanations to be made. 
 These gardens are laid out on the European plan, and exhibit a 
 blaze of scarlet geraniums, and yellow flowering plants, without a 
 trace of white, blue, or purple. Chinese gardening has been adopted 
 
550 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 
 
 % 
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 J 
 
 :5, 
 
 ■ n 
 
 
 SL 
 
 
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 ii 
 
 to produce a rocky mound on an island, in a pretty nrtilicial lalu". 
 and in the mound is a ])ictures(pie labyrintliian grotto, divided into 
 Moorish chambers, retreshment-rooms, drawing-rooms, and pavil- 
 ions; wiiilc light is flashed upon you at every turn by innumerable 
 stahietites, mirrors, fountains, and cascades. Coming upon earth 
 again, from this fairy subterranean maze, we wandered thruui^l. 
 the extensive menagerie, meeting, on the way, the princess-wifo. 
 whom the ladies had seen at Kasr Ali. Slie was enjoying a sunset 
 promenade, attended by a long train of ladies, slave-girls, and 
 inevitable eunuchs. The princess was arrayed in a dress of orauife- 
 and-vvhite shot silk, which completely enveloped her tall, graceful 
 figure, and covered the lower part of her face. Her eyes were ]iar- 
 tially veiled with the customary, very becoming, single fold of white 
 illusion. She interposed her little green parasol between her eye:^ 
 and our party as dexterously as a Broadway coquette. The women 
 of the seraglio were looking down upon us through latticed v,in- 
 dows, when the captiiin of the eunuch-guard opened the doors, witli 
 an apology for the previous delay, and proceeded to execute his 
 instructions by showing us a long range of 'uxurious apartments. 
 Gdded ceilings, marble floors, Persian carpets, damask divans, and 
 French mirrors, alone justify the preference of the inmates for 
 Ghezireh. A cuitivated Western taste would have introduced 
 here books, paintings, statuary, and a thousand works of art and 
 beauty, but Ave found nothing of the sort, except one table of Flor- 
 entine mosaic, which was presented to the Khedive by Victor 
 Emmanuel. 
 
 Is this a place and time to renew our speculations concerning 
 the harem f.s a domestic institution ? The Mohammedan provision 
 for woman is a prison in which her suff'erings from jealousy nn 
 consoled by the indulgence of her vanity. She is allowed the so- 
 ciety of her own sex with f-AY less restraint than is ordinarily sup- 
 posed, and she displays before her visiting friends with j)ride the 
 wealth and ornaments which lighten her chains. She goes abroad 
 in Cairo, but always in her carriage, and looks upon the busy world 
 in the streets with veiled eyes and under surveillance. She attend^ 
 her lord in his state progresses from palace to palace in Egy]tt, 
 
CIIAHACTEIIISTICS OF CAIIIO. 
 
 5.-. 7 
 
 pretty artilieiul hike. 
 I <rrotto, divided into 
 [lir-i'oomB, and pavil- 
 turn by innunierabli! 
 Cominji; upon earth 
 e wandered thruuirl 
 ay, the princess-wilV', 
 rt-as enjoyinfi; a siinsct 
 dies, slave-girls, ami 
 .1 in a dress of oraniie- 
 ped her tall, graeet'ul 
 , Her eyes were \)iw- 
 [c; sinirle fold of ■vvliiti' 
 •asol between her eyi> 
 oquette. The woineii 
 through latticed v.iii- 
 :)pened the doors, Avith 
 ceeded to execute his 
 luxurious apartments. 
 ts, damask divans, and 
 ^c of the inmates tor 
 ould have introduced 
 land works of art and 
 cept one table of Fkir- 
 e Khedive by Victor 
 
 5eculations concernini^ 
 lohammcdan provision 
 ings from jealousy arc 
 she is allowed the so- 
 than is ordinarily sup- 
 friends with pride the 
 ins. She goes abroad 
 iS upon the busy world 
 velllance. She rtttcnd^ 
 cc to palace in Egypt, 
 
 from Cairo to Alexaiulria, and frum Alexandria to Stamboul. IJut 
 she goes no farther, and never alone. She never reads, and, so far 
 as possible, is required never to think. The Mohammedan law de- 
 clares that the supreme object of her existence is to b'j niarried, 
 and to have children for the benefit of the state ; to be uinuar- 
 ricd, even to be widowed, is a reproach, and to die in either of 
 those conditions is to tV)rfeit hap[»incss in a future state. It is 
 true, indeed, that, though she fultils her a])[)oiuted duties and 
 destiny in obedience to the law as well as she nun-, she has not' 
 even in that case the promise of association with the faithful in 
 ]):iradise. For them houi'ls are appointed, an especial creation, 
 nuu'C beautiful, more fascinating than woman. For the faithful 
 Mohammedan wife there is reserved, however, in paradise, a condi- 
 tion which, while it is a seclusion from the other sex, is gay, glo- 
 rious, aiid perfectly happy. 
 
 Thv. Cairo of to-day is not entirely the same Cairo which "Eo- 
 tlien" and the "llowadji" have so well described. This active, 
 restless, innovating Khedive, Ismail Pacha, lays out and paves broad 
 and direct avenues, plants spacious parks and gardens, and builds 
 or buys European hotels, banking-houses, warehouses, and what not, 
 to such an extent that a sojourner here, who confines himself with- 
 in the improved district, might ftmcy himself in Vienna or Milan. 
 Nevertheless, the Grand Cairo of history and of romance, the Cairo 
 of the "Arabian Nights," of Saladin, and the Mamelul^s, remains a 
 great city, a maze of majestic mosques, latticed ])alaces, and brilliant 
 bazaars, variously built of stone, nnburnt brick, and of wood, all 
 streaked fantastically with red and yellow paint, and quaintly orna- 
 mented in Moorish arabesque. The narrow streets, sometimes too 
 narrow for any travelling beast but the donkey, often end in a cul- 
 de-sac, wdiile other streets, winding, turning, and twisting, lose thcm- 
 S(ilves in close, dark, mysterious courts, or come out upon acacia 
 avenues leading to steaming baths and sparkling fountains. The 
 people of all sorts, conditions, occupations, and races, known among 
 men, seem contented with themselves, and equally gentle toward all 
 comers. The Italian, the French, the English, the American, and 
 the Qcrman, jostle alike the children of Isumacl and the children 
 
558 
 
 EUYIT AND I'ALKSTINE. 
 
 of Israel, tlio Greek, the Copt, tlio Berber, tlio Abyssiniiin, llm 
 Nubian, and the Soinnalan. 
 
 The nierchandiso carried on here ia as various as the races, su])- 
 plyin^ equally all the luxuries of courts and the lowest wants of 
 tho nomadic tribes of the Arabian and IJbyan Deserts, not tc 
 speak of the 8uj)ply of the traveller with anti(]ue8 and articles ol' 
 vertu. We noticed the si^n of an in^jjenuous as well as ini>;enioU!J 
 Italian that he fabricates and sells " Egyi)tian relics." 
 
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 CHAPTER lY. 
 
 UP THE NILE. 
 
 Embarkiition nt Ghizch.— The Pyramids of Siiccara.— Tho Two Dosurt^^. — Siout.— The 
 American Vice-Coimul. — Sultan Pacha. — Cliaracter of the Nile. — Slave Boats — AraW 
 Vilhif^ers. — The Uirds of the Nile. — The I'opulation on the Banks.— Domestic Ani- 
 mal^.— Personal Arrangomeuta.— A Tiijpling Monkey. 
 
 Rhodahy on the Nile, May 12th. — Wo shall never cease to felici- 
 tate ourselves that we had sufficient resolution to go to the Great 
 Wall of China, though it was November ; and through India, 
 tbough so late as March. We are not particularly satislied with 
 ourselves for having yielded to remonstrance, and given n\) our 
 projected visit to tho Euphrates. An excursion on the Nile in 
 May is equally contraband. Though the Khedive has provided for 
 it like a prince, yet, like a judicious merchant, lie warns us that he 
 does not insure our lives. 
 
 Wc took our seats in a special railway-train at Ghizeh, on the 
 west bank of the Nile, opposite Cairo, at one this afternoon ; and 
 now, after a journey of two hundred and ninety miles, we are em- 
 harked in the steam-yacht Crocodile. Our journey at the very be- 
 giiiniug afforded us one of the most beautiful views which the val- 
 ley of the Nile presents. On onr right, the Libyan Desert, with 
 its eternal sentinels, the Pvramids. The river winds almost at 
 rifrlit angles toward the east, and is covered with latcen-sail-boats 
 tVeighted with the grains and fruits of Southern Africa. Before us 
 the undulating bank beneath the clifts of the Arabian Desert 
 
IGO 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 
 
 !!l 
 
 
 MUM 
 
 stretches out widely, and displays endless grove» of niimosa-ti'cis 
 and date-palms. Below these, and on our left, is the great city of 
 Cairo, crowning the acclivity from the water's edge to its toweriuip 
 citadel. The rainless clouds are pierced by the slender, gleaniiii<: 
 minarets of the great historical mosque, whose walls are lost in the 
 distance. 
 
 We had not lost sight of Cheops and Cephren, when we came 
 directly under the shadow of the Pyramids of Saccara, like the 
 former sepulchral monuments of departed kings, but of inferior 
 magnitude. We passed, as we weie assured, over the site of an- 
 cient Memphis, without seeing one stone resting on another there. 
 More of this, however, when we shall come down the Kile. 
 
 Ilhodah has three distmctions : it is the southern terminus if 
 the great Railroad of the Nile, which begins at Alexandria ; it ha,- 
 a palace of the Khedive ; and extensive sugar-manufactories, whii.!i 
 are his private property. The people received us kindly here, and 
 conducted us to the yacht, with the courtesies of a pleasant sere- 
 nade, torch-lights and bonfires. 
 
 Siout, May \2>th. — The mountains of the two deserts, between 
 wliich the Nile makes its way, are much nearer than we had sup- 
 posed. Alternately the Arabian Desert and the Libyan one crowds 
 the river, and gives it a serpentine direction. These promontories 
 often rise abruptly to the height of a thousand feet, leaving scarcely 
 a ribbon-width of green plain at their feet. We passed sneh a 
 one yesterday, which was terraced fi'om the river's surface fur iiji 
 toward its summit with galleries of vaulted tombs excavated in the 
 rock, and long since rifled of their deposits. Many of these tonics 
 have now living Arab tenants. 
 
 This afternoon we ])lantcd our mooring-stake for the first time. 
 in the high shelving bank of the river near this town, the name (1 
 which we write from a French map Siout, but which Englisli 
 travellers call A.-siont. Now the flourishing cajiital of Upjier 
 Egypt, it is in history Lycoptera, the " Town of the Wolf,'' or, ;> 
 the ancient Egyptians named their towns from their temple;^, the 
 Town of the Temple of the Wolf." AVhatcver else its present iii- 
 
 (k 
 
SIOUT. 
 
 501 
 
 ve» of iiumosa-trei'.s 
 is the great city (»t' 
 edge to its towering 
 lie slender, gleaming 
 I walls are lost in the 
 
 liren, when we came 
 of Saccara, like the 
 ings, but of inferiur 
 over the site of au- 
 inc: on another there. 
 )wn the Nile, 
 southern terminus it 
 at Alexandria ; it ha,- 
 -manufactories, which 
 d us kindly here, and 
 IS of a pleasant sere- 
 
 two deserts, between 
 er than we had sii]'- 
 he Libyan one crowd* 
 
 These promontories 
 
 feet, leaving scarcely 
 We passed such a 
 
 river's surface far uy 
 3mbs excavated in the 
 
 Many of these tuiiihs 
 
 ake for the iirst tiuu. 
 lis town, the name vi 
 , but which English 
 ing capital of Upper 
 n of the WoltV or, ;> 
 oni their temples, the 
 ver else its present in- 
 
 habitants may do now, they do not worship the most ferocious f.nd 
 cowardly of wild beasts. Siout is the terminus of a caravan-trade 
 which penetrates through the Libyan Desert to the great Oasis. 
 The population is thirty thousand. One-third are Copts. The 
 streets a.e narrow, the thronged bazaars filled with che«p articles 
 of trade, the buildings either of stone or adobe- One or two 
 mosques redeem the city from a general aspect of \^ilga''i^,y and 
 meanness. The town io built on the edge of the Libyai' Desert. 
 The plain, somewhat more than a mile wide between it . nd the 
 river, is annually inundated, but the traveller passes safely over it 
 on a broad embankment, which must have been built as lonii- airo 
 as when the dwellers of the place confessed the wolf for their god. 
 Our chief interest at Siout consists in the insight it gives of the 
 ancient Egyptian form of burial. The abrupt rocky desert face, 
 which looks down over the place, is pierced with sepulchral caves. 
 These caves are of vast extent and are divided into numerous cham- 
 hers ; all are dark, but, with the aid of torch-light, we found them 
 hewn and chiselled with elaborate architectural shapes, with por- 
 tals, columns, roof, and architraves. While we were pushing our 
 exploration, Erecman fell from the floor on which we stood, into 
 another cliamber four or five feet l)clow. He was unhurt, but 
 after it we concluded to leave the million bats and owls wiiiiin to 
 the quiet enjoyment of their at least possessory right. 
 
 The Governor of Upper Egypt, Sultan Pacha, has a palace here, 
 and with his stalF has kindly accompanied us in our excursion. 
 
 The United States vice-consul here is a nativo. though an 
 Armenian Christian. He has entertained us at his house, and 
 hrought around us his sons and many of his neighbors. ]>eing a 
 man of wealth, he prides himself on his dwelling, which he fondly 
 thinks he has built on European plans. It is at least an improve- 
 ment on the Egyi)tian style. AVe entered it from the street, by 
 crossing a bnrrier two feet high at the door, and descending without 
 steps to what seemed a basement, but proved to be a broad vesti- 
 bule, paved with solid stone, and covered with sand three inches 
 deep. We made our way through a dark gallery, without pave- 
 ment or floor, to the loftv consular saloon, with a divan stretching 
 
662 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 i 
 
 «t«r 
 
 •HE 
 
 z ■ * 
 
 Ifc. 1-* 
 
 1 
 
 * . 
 
 T'S 
 
 li 
 
 lit 
 
 S .»■■ 
 
 ■■:ii 
 
 li: 
 
 
 across one end, a row of attendants on either side, and a table in 
 the centre. The room has no external vcntihition of door or win- 
 dow, and is lighted day and night by lamps burning American 
 petroleum. The reception was extremely kind, but, for want of 
 acquaintance with Western manners, was excessively ceremonions 
 and tedious. Coffee, champagne, sherbets, bonbons, and chibouques. 
 were served, and many African curiosities presented to us. The 
 consul insisted that we should stop on our return, and enjoy an 
 entertainment of native music and dancing. We returned to our 
 yacht, where Mr. iSeward entertained Sultan Pacha and the vice- 
 consul at dinner. The governor, a dignified and courteous man, 
 was only once beyond the borders of Egypt ; this was when he 
 went on a pilgrimage to Mecca. The vice-consul has never been 
 beyond the summit of the deserts between which he was born. 
 Both expressed great wonder at Mr. Seward making such long 
 travels, and plied him with questions concerning the United States, 
 of which they have only the one idea, that it is a land of universnl 
 freedom and immixed happiness. The governor is making an offi- 
 cial voyage, through Upper Egypt, in his own steam-yacht. We shall 
 see more of him. We sleep to-night, as last night, under strains of 
 music, and with an illumination blazing on the shore. 
 
 On the Crocodile, May lUh. — So ftir as circumstances and in- 
 cidents are concerned, the experience of one day on the iS'ile i> 
 that of every day; even the scenery, though nnique and pictu- 
 resque, is monotonous. The river swells in the middle of June, and 
 attains its greatest height about the first of October, after whicli it 
 falls continnally lower until the next annual Hood. It is now near 
 its lowest stage. The soil of the valley is not ditfercnt from that 
 of tlie Mississippi. The river is of very unequal width ; in sonic 
 places ten rods wide, at others it spreads into shallow lakes, which 
 leave scarcely any tillable land on either bank. Like the great 
 American river, it is always changing its channel, weari?ig away a 
 high and fertile bank on one side, and transferring the soil to posi- 
 tions lower down and on the opposite side. At every point of the 
 voyage, the entire width of the valley is seen. Its average is six 
 
THE CANALS OF EGYPT. 
 
 oG3 
 
 miles. Irrigation fertilizes every acre ; the water, at whatever 
 stage, is raised for that purpose by all the contrivances known 
 to Prof. Ewbank, from the primitive well-sweep and bucket, aud 
 the endless chain and pitcher worked by mules and oxen, to the 
 steam-engine, which is employed on the great sugar-plantations. 
 
 So many channels are made for distributing water over the sur- 
 face, that Egypt truly boasts of more miles of canal than Java, China, 
 India, Holland, or the United States. The mountains on either side 
 are of solid rock, varying from sandstone to limestone and granite. 
 Huge bowlders of all these rocks are seen on either declivity, or 
 resting in the valley ; but the river-bed itself is free from stone. 
 "We are now five hundred miles from its mouths, and yet, through- 
 out all that distance, there is not a rock which hinders navigation. 
 Simd-bars formed by shifting currents render navigation, at low 
 water, impossible for vessels drawing more than throe feet, and 
 even those venture to move only by daylight. The downward cur- 
 rent is everywhere strong. Our yacht makes only five n\iles an 
 hour against it, although our motor is an engine of forty horse- 
 power. The only relief we have from the intense heat comes 
 M'itli frequent changes of the M'ind from south to north. At every 
 tiiru we see, on the one banlc or on the other, clumps of dwarf 
 cypress, and of palmetto, or of date-palms. With <-hese exceptions, 
 there is nothing of forest, and, of course, little of shade. We can 
 well imagine that tourists, more fortunate in their choice of season, 
 gailiug on a full river, level with its banks, find the country 
 exceedingly beautiful, the broad plains being then covered with 
 wheat, Indian-corn, rice, lentils, sunflowers, cotton, sugar, and 
 tobacco — a magnificent display of verdure under tlie frowns of two 
 jjigAutic deserts. Such enjoyment, however, is not for us. Tlie 
 cultivated banks arc liia-her than the chinmevs of our steamboat; 
 we catch only an occasional glimpse of the fields, now in their 
 hrownest and most exhausted condition. Xo rain has fallen for 
 a year. Not a cloud passes, betA/een the sun and the soil, by 
 day or by night. The earth is parched and cracked ; the winds, 
 which in other climates amuse themselves by driving storms of rain 
 and snow over the earth, here make their wild sport only with the 
 
504 
 
 EGYPT AND TALESTINE. 
 
 1. 
 
 I. 
 
 i.' 
 IE 
 
 11 
 
 '■It 
 
 
 black dust of the valley and the j'ellow sands of the desert. For all 
 this, the voyage is, none the less, one of deep interest. The vallev, 
 more than a thousand miles long, is densely inhabited. Like tlie 
 great river of China, the Nile is animated by travel and traffic. 
 Three classes of boats are employed : the stenmer, of course small, 
 and only recently introduced, is, as yet, monopolized by the Gov- 
 ernment; second, the da/iabce/i, a boat using the lateen-snil, grace- 
 fully constructed and gayly painted ; third, the vastly more numer- 
 ous and efi'ective class of small boats, also using the lateen-sail:^, 
 and managed by the natives. These bring down to Cairo the 
 surplus produce of Upper Egypt, and carry back merchandise, 
 chiefly of the cheapest and coarsest clothing, and indispensable 
 utensils and articles of furniture. Occasionally, too, one of these 
 boats is seen, in spite of all foreign protests, and of the Khedive's 
 interdiction, bearing a group of jot-black men, vomen, and chil- 
 dren, whom some native African chief, beyond the Egyptian bor- 
 der, has sold as prisoners of war, or exchanged for the trin'Kets so 
 highly valued in savage life. They do not seem unhappy. Moliaiu- 
 medan slavery, in fact, wears rather the chnracter of domestic ser- 
 vice than of exhausting labor and hard bondage. 
 
 The people cluster in towns on the banks, in small, low, oven- 
 shaped dwellings of sunburnt brick, without windows. A house 
 of two stories indicates tlie residence of a suceesoful merchant or 
 speculator. It is sure to be ornamented vrith Venetian blinds. 
 painted brown. Its double-latticed, narrow windows arc designed 
 to indicate that its proprietor is a Mohammedan, blessed with a 
 harem. The jiohammedan church maintains, through all ad- 
 ministrations, its rich foundations of mortmain. The nu)S(jue, 
 therefore, dominates everywhere. Aquatic birds swarm on the 
 beach and the sand-bars — cranes, ducks, geese, bright flamingoes, 
 and stately vultures. Xot the sjdashing of our propeller, nor even 
 the shrill steam-whistle, startles one of these birds. The crocodile 
 was a native of the Nile, and in the ancient mythology a god. All 
 books of travel written twenty or thirty years ago are flllcd witli 
 accounts of that hideous monster. Champollion relates that ho 
 caw fourteen at one time. It has entirely disappeared since the in- 
 
CHARACTERISTICS OF THE PEOPLE. 
 
 565 
 
 the desert. For ail 
 itcrcst. The vallcv, 
 iihabited. Like the 
 y travel and traffic. 
 ler, of course small, 
 :)polizcd by the Gov- 
 he hateen-sail, gracc- 
 ; vastly more mimer- 
 shig the lateen-sails, 
 down to Cairo tlio 
 T back merchandise, 
 ir, and indispensable 
 Uy, too, one of these 
 and of the Khedive s 
 en, v.'omen, and cliil- 
 :id the Egyptian bor- 
 id for the trinkets so 
 tn mdiappy. Moliain- 
 acter of domestic ser- 
 ge. 
 
 in small, low, oven- 
 t windows. A liouso 
 iccessful merchant or 
 ith Venetian blinds, 
 windows are designed 
 nedan, blessed with ii 
 i, throngh all ad- 
 Inain. The mos<iue, 
 birds swarm on tlio 
 se, bright flamingoes, 
 ur propeller, nor even 
 birds. The crocodile 
 lythology a god. All 
 's a""© are tilled witli 
 Hion relates that ho 
 appeared since the in- 
 
 troduction of the steamboat, and the traveller who should speak of 
 seeing a crocodile below the cataracts would be thought as extrava- 
 gant as Sinbad. 
 
 The inhabitants are nearly all fellahs. A large portion of them 
 are of Arabian descent, often intermixed with the more swarthy 
 Abyssinian and black Nubian. They are strong, slender, and pa- 
 tient. A very small class, consisting of official persons, merchants, 
 or " middle-men," wear a white Moorish turban or red tarboosh, 
 and dress quite tastefully in black-cloth coats and white panta- 
 loons, imported by wholesale from England. But the common 
 people uniformly wear the heavy turban and blue cotton blouse, 
 with bare feet and legs. No one of any class, however, neglects 
 to carry a camel's-wool cloak, butternut colored, for his bed at 
 night. The children, as in other tropical countries, wear nothing. 
 Ophthalmia is universally prevalent. Women, either Mohammedans 
 or Copts, are never seen with men in either town, country, or vil- 
 lage. They are seen only occasionally, and then in small groups, 
 but, on being approached, they timidly hide themselves in their 
 wide blue mantles, and retire to the road-side or into some dark 
 corner. It is painful to notice how much toil and time are ex- 
 pended for domestic wants • but for the people it seems only a pleas- 
 ant exercise. The Nile is the one indispensable supply of the com- 
 fort of life. Men are seen everywhere driving their small herds into 
 the river for drinking and bathing, and, on their return, bringing 
 home a domestic supply of the water in skin-bottles. At sunset 
 and sunrise women are seen coming in long, dark procession?- ^"om 
 distant towns, by winding paths, to the water-side, and, as in 
 patriarchal times, bearing the family supply in large earthen urns 
 poised gracefully on their heads. 
 
 There is no lack of domestic animals among this people. The 
 horse is small, but strong and Avell shaped. The ugly water-ox is 
 the beast of the plough ; the donkey is the common carrier of the 
 country; while the camel not only shares that labor with him, but 
 also labors in the field. There are immense flocks of sheep and 
 goats, the latter all black. It is difficult to decide which party 
 manifests the greater affection, the fellah for his mute beast, or 
 87 
 
566 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 the donkey for his kind and gentle master. They are insepara- 
 ble. The Arab is violent in altercation with his fellow-man, and 
 often deals a passionate blow, but he never strikes or reproaches 
 
 r '-I 
 
 l»; 
 
 ^e*^:, 
 
 1! 
 
 
 IK 
 
 i" 
 
 (lla«i, 
 
 < 1 
 
 A WOUAN ON THE NILE. 
 
 his beast. The people, isolated from all other races, show a great 
 fondness for birds. We have heard the report of neither rifle nor 
 fowling-piece, and every house in every town has a fanciful dove- 
 cote with alluring twigs at its windows. Although the Arabs have 
 no prejudice against animal food, the domestic pigeon is held as sa- 
 cred here as robin red-breast is in Massachusetts. Pigeons have 
 multiplied so much that ])olitical economists compute their consump- 
 tion of the products of the valley at one-twentieth part. When Ave 
 reason with a native on the subject of this extravagance, I c replies 
 that the bird compensates for it by supplying guano for the pro- 
 duction of water-melons. 
 
OUR PERSONAL EXPERIENCE. 
 
 567 
 
 They are inscpara- 
 his fellow-man, and 
 rikes or reproaches 
 
 lev races, show a great 
 srt of neither riHe iiov 
 n has a fanciful dove- 
 though the Arabs have 
 ic pigeon is held as sa- 
 lusetts. Pigeons have 
 ■ompute their consump- 
 .tieth part. When we 
 ■xtravagance, 1 e replies 
 ng guano for the pro- 
 
 A word now of our personal experience in the voyage. The 
 weather is intensely hot, and of course grows hotter as we go south. 
 Our party, including Betts Bey, consists of four and our three ser- 
 vants. Each passenger has a large state-room opening into a 
 co:Tifortahle after-cabin. The forward-cabin was arranged as a 
 dining-room, but Mr. Seward overrules the arrangement, and causes 
 the table to be spread always under an awning on the after-deck, 
 and he persists also in using the same airy apartment for his own 
 sleeping-room. It is impossible for us to be on shore in the day- 
 time, on account of the insutferable heat. We make our calcula- 
 tions, therefore, to move up the river in the middle of the day, rest- 
 in*;, sleeping, trying to keep cool, and writing our notes. AVe go 
 ashore at as early an hour as possible before sunrise, and at as early 
 an hour as possible after sunset. Ai every landing-place the au- 
 thorities, having been apprised of our coming, are found awaiting 
 U3 with the chairs, horses, camels, mules, and donkeys, needed. 
 "Wliether we dine on board or in a ruined temple on the shore, 
 the servants who attend us spread the table with the same abun- 
 dant and delicate supplies as at Cairo. Our cai)tain and crew 
 belong to the naval service, and arc skilful and polite. The cap- 
 tain never fails personally to provide our Mocha coiTee, flavored 
 with attar of roses, as in the Turkish harem. Chibouques, exqui- 
 sitely wrought and loaded with gems, are served at every meal by 
 a personage whose sole duty in this life is to keep them safe and 
 sweet. Instead of iced water, wc have water cooled in porous 
 earthen jars, which are hung over the stern of the boat. The wine 
 is cooled by laying the bottles well corked in the troughs of the 
 boat, and pouring a stream of river-water over them. A small 
 Abyssinian monkey affords us infinite amusement by stealing these 
 bottles, extracting the corks, pouring the wine into the gutter, and 
 drinking it thence until he attains the height of human intoxica- 
 tion. We attempted to correct this habit by chastising Mm, but he 
 dropped from our hands into the river, and instantly disappeared. 
 After searching river and bank three hours for him. we gave him 
 up for lost, when, to our surprise, he appeared squatted on the scat 
 of the life-boat which was swinging at the stern. 
 
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 FROM A BY DOS TO THEBES. 
 
 The Ruins of Abydos. — The Sheik of BoUianoh. — A Misunderstanding. — A Dinner in tlie 
 Uuins. — A Xii;ht in thc> Temple.— Exploring the Ruins. — By whom were tlicy bnilt? 
 — Germs of Religious Ideas. — The Temple of Dendera. — Mr. Seward's Birthday. 
 
 Ahydos, Hay 15^A. — Though we were unfortunate in rcacliiii"- 
 Bellianeh at a late hour last evening, we found sedan-chairs, fellahs, 
 donkeys, and camels, awaiting us on the river-bank. The .sheik 
 of the district, and the United States vice-consul, a Copt, met iis, 
 and proceeded with us imraediatelv to the ruins, where we now 
 write. 
 
 These ruins stand on the verge ot the Libyan Desert, and over- 
 look the level plain of the Kile, here seven miles wide. Mr. Sew- 
 ard came in a cha.r, the ladies on dorkeys, the official persons on 
 horseback, the servants, the beds, and the provisions for the night, 
 on camels. It happened unavoidably that the procession broke 
 into groups, which left some of its members without guides whom 
 they could recognize. Night came on before we crossed the plain. 
 We arrived at an Arab village, passing through very narrow and 
 crooked streets, and under low Moorish arches. There \vq alighted 
 and climbed some stone steps, by the liglit of torches held out 
 for our guidance. We entered a court, or chamber, which opens 
 to the skv. llow could we doubt that we were at least in the 
 vestibule of the Temple of Memnon ? It was a surprise to have 
 the room quickly though feebly lighted up, and to find the floor 
 
jrstanding.— A Dinner in tlie 
 -By whom were tlioy bnilt? 
 -Mr. Seward's Birthday, 
 
 fortunate in reaching: 
 d sedan-cliairs, i'cllalis, 
 
 er-bank. The sheik 
 onsul, a Copt, met us, 
 
 ruins, wlicrc we now 
 
 )yan Desert, and over- 
 miles wide. Mr. Sew- 
 the official persons on 
 ovisions tor the night, 
 the procession broke 
 without guides whom 
 ■c we crossed the phun. 
 ouo-h very narrow and 
 cs. There we ahghtcd 
 .t of torches hold out 
 chamber, which opens 
 i were at least in the 
 surprise to have 
 
 ras a 
 
 and to find the floor 
 
570 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 mr »•« 
 
 
 * ■-. ■ 
 
 
 covered with Persian carpets, on which divans were placed, and to 
 have Arab servants come in loaded with water-melons, rose-water, 
 coffee, and chibouques. Impatient to bivouac, we asked for the 
 rest of the party, but it did not come up. We now noticed that no 
 J ' our own furniture or baggage had come in. Was this the 
 Temple of Meranon ? If not, Why and by whom were we received 
 here with so much courtesy ? If it was that temple, it was a very 
 small one for so great a god, besides being quite modern in archi- 
 tecture, and built of adobe. Wo demanded an explanation, and 
 received it — in Arabic. We afterward learned that the Sheik of 
 Bellianeh had opened his castle for our reception and entertain- 
 ment during the night. This, although an excellent hospitality, 
 was not the feast to which we had bidden ourselves. That feast 
 was to be served in the Temple of Memnon, in the excavated city 
 of Abydos. It was not without much and earnest expostulation, 
 nor without accidents of overturned chairs, and falls from tlie 
 backs of the donkeys, that we reached the temple, two miles farther 
 onward, and found the residue of the party there awaiting our 
 arrival with much anxiety. So far as ancient temples are con- 
 cerned, we had hitherto seen at Memphis only the place where 
 they are supposed to have stood — at Ileliopolis, an obelisk which 
 graced the porch of the Temple of the Sun, and, at Ghizeh, a sub- 
 terranean temple. So we w^ere quite unprepared for the vast, im- 
 posing, and perfect structure that now towered before us. We 
 passed through the propylceum — a majestic gate-way flanked by 
 lofty edifices on either side — into a vestibule, more spacious than 
 any cathedral or church in the United States. Beyond this vesti- 
 bule, we entered a court enclosed by grand open corridors, of which 
 only the basement, a double colonnade, and the architraves, remain, 
 the solid roof having entirely fallen in, the massive slabs remaining, 
 with the exception of here and there one long since removed. 
 This court is the inner vestibule of the temple. It was too dark to 
 see more. Dinner had been laid in a long, dark chamber, which 
 might be the nave of the temple, and our mattresses had been 
 spread in high-vaulted chambers at the side. Were not these mag- 
 nificent accommodations for travellers ? Perhaps our banqueting- 
 
RUINS OF ABYDOS. 
 
 571 
 
 hall was the nuptial chamber of Isis and Osiris, perhaps it was the 
 mausoleum of Memnon. Perhaps our sleeping-rooms were the 
 sacristies of the priests who assisted at one or both of those ceremo- 
 nies. We had scarcely sat down to the much-needed entertain- 
 ment before we were smothered and sickened by an atmospliere of 
 heat and mould. We beat a hasty retreat to the open corridor. 
 Here we had for a table a broad granite slab, which had fallen from 
 the roof many ages since. We dined with the shadows of the mas- 
 sive columns projected over us by the torch-lights of our bearers. 
 The ladies retired to their stately rooms, but a trial of half an hour 
 proved sleep, and even life, impossible there. The pallets were 
 brought out and spread on the floor of the open dining-hall. All 
 were wakeful, and contemplated for hours this strange experience 
 of sleeping in the Libyan Desert under the starlif sky. Our 
 thoughts wandered through the past and in the infinite, but we were 
 occasionally brought back by the heavy breathing of our sleep- 
 ing, staff-armed Arabian sentinels, the braying of the donkeys, or the 
 piteous moaning of the weary camels, at the outer verge of our un- 
 rivalled chamber. 
 
 We rose before the sun, and, while the air was yet comparatively 
 cool, explored the edifice, which consists of seven parallel naves or 
 complete buildings, each with a vaulted roof, each nave two hnn- 
 dred feet long, and terminating in an elaborate and imposing sanc- 
 tuary. This peculiar form of the temple suggests the idea that it 
 was dedicated to the worship, not of one god, but of seven gods. 
 Arcliseologists, however, are not agreed on that point. Besides the 
 naves and the sanctuaries, there are other spacious chambers, some 
 behind the latter, and others behind the propylaeum. Of these 
 chambers some may be supposed to have contained vessels of sacri- 
 fice, some sacred treasures, and others to have been the cells of the 
 priests who were vowed to chastity, poverty, and penance. No part 
 of the temple was adapted to the accommodation of a mass or con- 
 gi'egation of worshippers. On the wall of an interior corridor is a 
 tablet which contains a chronological record of the names and seals 
 of seventy-six successive kings of Egypt, beginning with Menes, the 
 founder of the monarchy and builder of Memphis, and ending with 
 
572 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 
 
 
 r 
 
 11 
 
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 • «■.{ r. 
 
 'V.I. 
 
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 5-* 
 
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 Sctis, whose statue, with that of his son liaiuoses, stands at the base, 
 as if reading the interesting genealogical record, a mutilated copy 
 of which is preserved in the British Museum, and there called the 
 " Stone of Abydos." Every part of the walls, the interior as well 
 as the exterior, is covered with sculptures and hieroglyphics. Sonio 
 of these pictures represent the birth of Osiris, his marriage with 
 Isis, his death, and his apotheosis. They present him also in three 
 beneticent characters, as the god of the ^"ile, the god of the sun, 
 and the god of agriculture. And they exhibit Isis in her three at- 
 tractive characters, as goddess of the moon, goddess of wine, and 
 goddess of love Other pictures present, allegorically, Osiris, Isis, 
 and their son Horus, as the benevolent deities receiving sacrifices, 
 and the treacherous brother Typhon, who dethrones Osiris, as the 
 god of evil — in other words, the devil. With the benevolent dei- 
 ties are associated animals of a gentle nature, also exalted to tlio 
 divine, as in the Christian pictures of the middle ages the land) is 
 associated with the beloved disciple John. The ox is a sacred em- 
 blem of Osiris, and the cow of Isis. The evil deity, likewise, lias 
 his brute representative in the crocodile, the hippopotamus, and 
 the ass. 
 
 The first inquiry that a disciple made, on hearing the fcaifid 
 prophecy of the Saviour, was, " Master, when shall these things 
 be ? " The first inquiry that a traveller makes, when he confronts 
 the devastated walls of Abydos, is, "When were these things 
 built ? " History records that Abydos flourished before the Persian 
 conquest, and that it fell into ruin at the time of the Mohammedan 
 invasion. Until the reign of the present Khedive, the vast ruins 
 lay buried under a mean Arab village. The hieroglyphics on tlio 
 tombs at Abydos show that they were built within a period 
 of nine hundred years, which period began with the year 37<'0 
 before our era — of course, five thousand five hundred and sev- 
 enty yaars ago. The builders must have had some experience 
 in architecture before these majestic structures could be produced. 
 If this account does not agree with Archbishop Usher's chronology, 
 it is not for us to reconcile the conflict. History also has settled 
 some other points of interest concerning this temple: First, that 
 
RUINS OF ARYDOS. 
 
 573 
 
 , stands at the base, 
 1, a nuitiluted copy 
 id there culled tlic 
 the interior as well 
 eroglyphics. Sonio 
 1, his marriage with 
 lit him also in throo 
 the god of the sun, 
 Isis in her three at- 
 addess of wine, ami 
 ;orically, Osiris, Isis, 
 
 receiving sacriliccri, 
 ironcs Osiris, as the 
 
 the benevolent dei- 
 , also exalted to tlio 
 lie ages the lamb is 
 lie ox is a sacred ciii- 
 1 deity, likewise, has 
 } hippopotamus, and 
 
 hearing the feai-i'ul 
 shall these things 
 ,, when he confronts 
 were these things 
 ;d before the Persian 
 »f the Mohammedan 
 ledive, the vast ruins 
 hieroglyphics on the 
 |ilt within a period 
 with the year 3700 
 hundred and sev- 
 lad some experience 
 |s could be produced. 
 Usher's chronology, 
 fory also has settled 
 temple: First, that 
 
 its constniction was contemporary with the Egyptian obelisk at 
 
 Luxor; second, that it was dedicated to Osiris; and, third, that 
 
 it was culled Memnoniuiii. Ihit where is the tomb of Osiiris? 
 
 The same veneration which the Christian world bestows on the 
 
 sepidchre at Jerusalem was paid by the Egy})tiuiis to the tond) of 
 
 Osiris. According to Plutandi, it was the det-tination of their 
 
 pilgrimages in life, and the place near Mhich, if circumstances 
 
 allowed, they caused themselves to be buried. Adjacent to the 
 
 great Temple of Abydos is the Temple of Kameses II. A dila})i- 
 
 dated wall, now only four feet high, encloses an inmiense mass of 
 
 dthns. Mariette Bey confesses his inability to reproduce, Irom 
 
 these ruins, the plan of the original structure. At the side of this 
 
 Temple of Rameses there is a high hillock, called the Kom-ses-Sul- 
 
 tan. This hillock has been formed by tiers of catacombs one above 
 
 the other. Many valuable funereal treasures have already been 
 
 removed to the museum at Cairo. Mariette Bey is encouraged, by 
 
 discoveries already made, in his hope of finding among them the 
 
 valuable tomb of Osiris. 
 
 Let us now roUect a moment. We have here, at Abydos, 
 
 ascended to a very early age of human civilization. We have 
 
 learned from this study that in that age mankind were no less 
 
 perplexed than they now arc with the problem of the origin of 
 
 good and evil ; that, incapable of tracing the beneficent and 
 
 injurious natural forces to a first and just Creator of both, they 
 
 dciiicd and worshipped those natural forces themselves, magnifying 
 
 and blessing the good, and deprecating and propitiating the evil. 
 
 In ancient times, nations were more isolated than now, but the 
 
 ])erplcxity of the human mind concerning good find evil was as 
 
 universal then as it is no"w. Each nation improve 1 and adopted 
 
 any supposed discovery of another. The mythologies of Greece 
 
 and Rome, supposed to clear up the mysterious origin of good and 
 
 evil, were borrowed from Egypt, and it seems probable that those 
 
 which still linger in Hindostan and China were brought from the 
 
 same primitive source. Finally, we have learned here that the 
 
 monastic and ascetic systems, which yet prevail in every part of 
 
 Asia, and which still have a strong foothold among Christian na- 
 
«"**■, 
 
 Mm. 
 
 SMI 
 
 «»■ ■ .-1 
 
 *»>■. 1 •*« 
 
 M 
 
 
 JStH 
 
 I" 
 
TEMPLE OF DENDERA. 
 
 575 
 
 tions, existed here, under a theology which has untimely perished, 
 leaving neither priest nor votary on the face of the globe. There 
 are more reflections of a less general character. "When the chil- 
 dren of Israel insisted that Moses should set up a golden calf for 
 their worship, did they do more than adopt the Egyptian dedica- 
 tion of the ox and the cow to Osiris and Isis? Was the Egyptian 
 apotheosis of the crocodile and the serpent the germ of the idea 
 of the evil serpent which tempted our first parents to their fall in 
 Eden ? Was it the germinal idea of the brazen serpent which 
 Moses " lifted up ? " Has the capacity of man for religious knowl- 
 edge its limit, beyond which it cannot go, and is each of its various 
 systems, although perverted, based on some intuitive idea or 
 abused revelation? 
 
 Kenneh, May 17th. — ^We planted our stake here at four o'clock 
 yesterday afternoon, and immediately proceeded to explore the 
 Temple of Dendera'. It is more modern and better preserved, 
 though less interesting, than the Memnonium. Its construction was 
 begun by one of the Ptolemies, two hundred and fifty years before 
 the Christian era, and was completed under the Emperor Tiberius, 
 while our Saviour was yet living in Jerusalem. Some of its decora- 
 tions were added in the reign of Nero. It has thus happened that, 
 though it does not combine the profane with any thing sacred, it 
 does combine illustrations of different . profane systems. It com- 
 bines the history, mythology, and science, of ancient Egypt. It is 
 elaborate equally in design and execution. AVe can hardly count 
 its halls and chambers. The v;alls, the ceilings, the columns, the 
 doors, the windows, the capitals, the surbases and pedestals, and 
 even the stc.Ircases, are crowded with texts and bass-reliefs. These 
 have such a mutual correspondence that the antiquary finds it not 
 difficult to penetrate their meaning, and even the ceremonies of 
 worship. The temple was designed as a hall in which to celebrate 
 the inauguration of the sovereign of Egypt in three cliaractevs, as 
 lung of Upper Egypt, King of Lower Egypt, and chief pontifi' in 
 the worship of Isis. The ceremonies i ^-nsisted in stately proces- 
 sions, sacrifices, prayers, and offerings. There is a well-marked 
 
576 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 
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 division of the chambers into four groups: the first, a vestibule 
 or open hall, in the place of the propylasum, which was customary 
 in Egypt ; a grand gate-way, which was opened to the king alone • 
 with lesser ones on either side, which gave access to priests and 
 others who brought offerings. A bass-relief on the north side shows 
 the progress of the sovereign as King of Lower Egypt ; a similar 
 tablet, on the opposite side, his entrance as King of Upper Egypt. 
 In these ceremonies, two deities, Tlioth, who was a brother of Isis 
 (and whom the Greeks recognize as Mercury), and Ilorus, her son, 
 pour on the king's head the water of purification. Two goddesses 
 invest him with a double crown. Then, two deities, one from 
 Ileliopolis, in Upper Egypt, the other from Thebes, in Lower 
 Egypt, take the king by the hand, and conduct him into the pres- 
 ence of Isis. The second group of chambers, ten in number, wore 
 all closed and painted black. The procession was formed in one 
 of these silent halls, and the ofterings were prepared for a feast in 
 another. The walls of one of them are . namented with four boats, 
 like those now in use on the Nile, the boats being carried in pro- 
 cession. Each of these boats contains, at the middle, a long chest 
 or box, covered with a thick white veil. This chest corresponds 
 exactly with the descriptions of the " ark of the covenant " which 
 was held in such regard by the Jews. One of the chambers was a 
 laboratoiy where incense, oils, and essences were prepared for per- 
 fuming the statues of the gods. Others contained rich vestments 
 for covering their limbs. The offerings to the gods, as painted 
 on the walls, were all sorts of birds, animals, fine clothing, and 
 ornaments of silver and gold. Instead of the one sanctuary, as at 
 the Memnonium, there are two here, one dedicated to Osiris, the 
 other to Isis. The former is ornamented with a representation of 
 his death, resurrection, and triumph. Wo were more interested, 
 however, in a small interior structure, in the complete form of a 
 temple, in which was celebrated the feast of the New Year, which 
 took its date from a transit of Sirius. This hall 1ms twelve columns, 
 which arc respectively dedicated to the several months. There is 
 also a dark chamber of exquisite architecture which was used for 
 the preservation of mysterious objects, which none but the king 
 
MR. SEWARD'S BIRTHDAY. 
 
 577 
 
 and tlie pontiff were permitted to see. Stranger, however, than 
 any of these are the labyrinthine subterranean chambers, properly 
 called crypts. They are without doors or windows and yet their 
 walls are covered with inscriptions, and these recite the date of 
 their construction, but not their use. It ib supposed that they were 
 built as places of deposit and concealment of the treasures and 
 sacred vessels and vestments, in case of surprise by an enemy. 
 However this may be, we can never forget the demonstration of 
 their present use, which we encountered. "With the aid of torches, 
 we crept on our knees through an opening which had been made 
 in the wall that enclosed one of them. As we rose to our feet, 
 there was a deafening noise, accompanied with a motion of the air^ 
 like the flapping of the sails of a ship in a storm at sea, and thou- 
 sands of frightened bats came dashing against us, making their 
 way into the outer light, from which they had taken refuge. Cleo- 
 patra caused the ornamentation of the outer wall to be completed 
 with an intaglio of herself, and another of her son, the child of 
 Julius Cajsar. This figure is inferior to the Grecian statuary of 
 that period ; nevertheless, its outlines agree with the accepted rep- 
 resentations of that eccentric and fascinating queen. 
 
 Avoiding alike the darkened sanctuaries and the crypts, we 
 spread our table in the cheerful temple of the New Year. There, 
 with Osiris and Isis, and Thoth and Horus, Pascht, and wc know 
 not how many other deities looking down on us from the walls, we 
 celebrated the anniversary of Mr. Seward's seventieth birthday. 
 One of the party amused us by quoting from Homer, and applying 
 to Mr. Seward, the words : 
 
 . . . . " whoso soul no respite knows, 
 Though years and honors bid hiin seek repose." 
 
 Mr. Seward answered, repeating the two other lines : 
 
 "But now the last despair surround:? our liost, 
 No hour must pass, no moment must be lost." 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 THEBES AND ITS RUINS. 
 
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 WHiat Thebos is now. — A Grand Reception. — A Federal Salute. — The Scenery of the 
 Nile. — The Temple of Luxor. — The House.? of the Consuls. — Ili.story of Luxor,— 
 KarnaJt. — Tiie Hall of the Gods. — King Shishak. — Sphinx Avenues. — Wo dino vith 
 the Vicc-Cons^ul. — Tlie Colossi. — The Ancient Tombs. — The Tombs of tlie Kings.— 
 Animal Worship. — The Rameseum. — Grandeur of Thebes, 
 
 Thches, May \7th. — From tlie first hour of our classic reading, 
 Tliebes is the one place which we have most desired, and least of 
 all hoped, to sec. But, we are here, moored under the east bank 
 of the jS'ile, which once supported that glorious city of antiqiiity, 
 We have come too late, by thousands of years, to verify the descrip- 
 tions given of it by the poets and historians of old. There are 
 no longer "a hundred gates" here, nor is there one gate, nor a 
 wall, nor a trace of a wall. There are no monuments by which we 
 could decide the disputed question whether the Diospolis, situated 
 on the cast bank of the Nile, and including Luxor and Karnak, 
 was the whole of Thebes, or whether it extended across the river, 
 and included the Colossi, the Memnonium, and the Necropolis. 
 
 We must first note, not vvhat Thebes was, but what it is now. 
 Our deck is forty feet perpendicularly below tlic top of the bank, 
 There was no wharf, no dock, no bund, no ghaut ; there is no 
 stone stairway, there is no wooden one. In anticipation of our 
 coming, the sheik (governor), by direction of Sultan Pacha, has e.\- 
 ravated steps in tho loose, dry earth. They will serve us pcrliapa 
 to reach the summit, but they will need to be repaired for our re- 
 
rs. 
 
 , Salute. — The Scenery of the 
 ::;oii.suls.— History of Luxor.— 
 )hinx Avenues.— Wc diuo vith 
 
 The Tombs of the Kings.— 
 
 2bes. 
 
 ' of our classic reading, 
 it desired, and least of 
 id under tlie cast bank 
 jrious city of antii]iiity. 
 I'B, to verify the dcscrip- 
 ans of old. There are 
 there one gate, nor a 
 lonuments by which we 
 the Diospolis, situated 
 ng Luxor and Karnak, 
 ended across the river, 
 and the Necropolis, 
 as, but what it is no\v. 
 w the top of the bank. 
 no ghaut ; there is no 
 In anticipation of our 
 )f Sultan Pacha, has ex- 
 V will serve us perhaps 
 be repaired for our re- 
 
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580 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 
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 turn. Moreover, we are having a grand reception. Ali Murad 
 EiFendi, the loyal United States consul, although he is a true Mus- 
 sulman, has not only displayed the broad and bright United State 
 flag at his house-top, but also the gorgeous banner of Brazil, and 
 at this moment he is pouring down upon us, with a single rusty 
 musket, a Federal salute of eighteen guns, from his balcony. All 
 the people of Thebes are on the bank to receive us. They consist 
 of twelve mule-drivers, with their mules ; twelve donkey-drivers, 
 with their asses; ten or a dozen manufacturers and vendors of 
 antiquities and relics, and with an outside attendance of as 
 many fellahs, brought here by the unusual sight of bonfires kin- 
 dled on the bank. We ascend, we reach the summit, we stand 
 upon the sacred plain, we dismiss the muleteers and donkey- 
 boys for the night, we thread our way through a musty Arab vil- 
 lage to the consulate. In the upper chambers we pay our acknowl- 
 edgments, take Mocha coffee, and a chibouque. 
 
 3fai/ ISth. — The bonfires went out late last night, and we rose 
 early this morning to make a first survey. The scenery of the 
 Nile is at no other time seen in such delicate hues as in the hour 
 before sunrise. Above Thebes, the river winds around the foot of 
 the Arabian Desert, forming a chain of small gray lakes. The licad- 
 lands in these lakes are crowned with scattering farms, and not only 
 the outlines of each tree, but every broad leaf, is distinctly defined 
 on the clear horizon. A mirage from afiir reflects the same desert, 
 lakes, headlands, and trees, gathered into cool, shady groves— in- 
 distinct and dreamy pictures, like those in mountain agates. 
 
 Forty rods from the river-bank, on a terrace of sand, wliich 
 seems to be a lower ridge of the dome, there rise before us two rows 
 of majestic columns, roofless, but held together by architraves not 
 less massive. Familiar all our lives with pictorial representation?, 
 we recognize the ruined Temple of Luxor. Beyond that ruin, with 
 the exception of here and there a m.ud-hut, is only the naked desert; 
 at the left of the colonnade, heaps o^ debris, half buried in the sand, 
 In the midst of these masses, towers up a red granite obelisk, high- 
 er and newer than the honey-combed one which marks the site oi 
 
OBELISKS AT KARNAK. 
 
 581 
 
 eccption. Ali Murad 
 uirli he is a true Mug- 
 
 I 
 
 :1 bright United State 
 banner ot Brazil, and 
 IS, with a single rusty 
 I'om his balcony. All 
 ■eive us. They consist 
 twelve donkey-drivers, 
 turcrs and vendors of 
 iidc attendance of as 
 sight of boniires kin- 
 the summit, we stand 
 luleteers and donkey- 
 ugh a musty Arab vil- 
 rs we pay our acknowl- 
 le. 
 
 last night, and we roso 
 '. The scenery of the 
 te hues as in the hour 
 inds around the foot of 
 gray lakes. The head- 
 ■inff farms, and not onlv 
 eaf, is distinctly defined 
 reflects the same desert, 
 cool, shady groves— in- 
 nountain agates, 
 terrace of sand, which 
 rise before us two rows 
 ither by architraves not 
 ictorial representations, 
 Beyond that ruin, with 
 sonly the naked desert; 
 half buried in the sand. 
 id granite obelisk, high- 
 which marks the site oi 
 
 the Temple of the Sun at Ileliopolis. Beyond these debris, looking 
 through the vista formed by the colonnade and obelisk, are seen tiie 
 dwarfisli minarets of a sir bby Arab mosque, rising out of a group 
 or cluster of adobe huts, an Arab village, which may contain fifteen 
 hundred people. Three tall, modern houses loom up above the 
 
 OBELISKS AT RAR.VAK. 
 
 roofless dwellings of the wretched town. These houses are built on 
 the v;all of the dilapidatc;l temple, ami of materials taken from it, 
 and are the residences of the governor, the British consul, and the 
 United States vice-consul, who also flourishes under an exequatur 
 
 38 
 
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 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
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 as consul of Brazil. We ascended the terrace and stood on the 
 pavement beneath the double colonnade. At a distance of two 
 miles northward, among fields which, though now dry and dusty, 
 still wear the aspect of careful cultivation, we see the stupendous 
 gate-ways, columns, and obelisks of Karnak. An Arab hamlet nes- 
 tles at the base of these ruins, as at Luxor. Beyond Karnak we see 
 only the winding river and the converging Libyan and Arabian Des- 
 erts. Turning our back upon the morning sun, we see, across the 
 river, a plain, stretching along the opposite bank for five miles, and 
 three miles in width, cultivated though uninhabited, subject to in- 
 undation. Beyond the plain are the lofty and irregular moun- 
 tains of the Libyan Desert. The immediate river-bank is fringed 
 with palms and sycamores. At the northern extremity of the plain 
 we distinguish a cluster of stately columns; on the left, a like, 
 though less prominent one. The former are ruins of the temples 
 called by the Arabs Qournah-Deir-el-Bahari, and the Ramescuni. 
 Tiie latter are the ruins of the temple called, in Arabic, Medeonct 
 Haboo. Midway between these widely-separated heaps of ruins, 
 are two lofty stone piles, each showing a human outline. Tliese 
 are the C(»lossi — the one so marvellously vocal to the ancients; 
 the other, its mute companion. Those ruined temples, with the 
 Colossi, are all that remain of Thebes, on the west bank of the Nile, 
 that can be discerned within a single view taken from Luxor. 
 Those ruins, with Luxor and Karnak, are the disjecta membni of 
 the great capital. 
 
 "We turn to Luxor. It was built by Pharaoh Anienophis III., 
 fourteen hundred and eighty years before Christ, at the very time 
 when the rebellion of Dathan and Abiram was going on in the 
 desert. Eighty years later, Ramescs IL raised two monolith granite 
 obelisks beyond the colonnade. One of these we have already 
 mentioned ; the other we hope to see in its present site in the Place 
 de la Concorde at Paris. He raised, at the same time, two mono- 
 lith granite statues, not less than twenty-five feet high, which are 
 now seen broken off at the middle, and prostrate on the ground. 
 The colonnade, the almost level walls, the solitary obelisk, and 
 those broken colossal statues, together with many lesser ones 
 
KAKNAK. 
 
 583 
 
 dedicated to gods, heroes, and animals, some remaining in place, 
 and others strewed among the debris, are all that remain of the 
 original Luxor. After the conquest of the Greeks, other orna- 
 mental statues, paintings, and inscriptions, were added to tlie 
 temple, airong which latter are found the names of Psammctichus 
 and Alexander. It is to be hoped that the work of excavation, 
 long s nee suspended, will be renewed. In that case it will prob- 
 ably ai)pear that the temple structures extended much farther for- 
 ward. The ruins as now seen, while they command admiration by 
 their grandeur, leave on the visitor's mind a painful impression of 
 the na rrow extent of the temple. 
 
 W3 encounter no such disappointment at Karnak. It is the 
 most imposing ruin in the world, devastated sadly, but not in a 
 heap of dth'is. The ruins cover an area of nearly two miles in 
 circumference. AVas there one symmetrical structure, dedicated to 
 one worship, or was there a combination of many temples, dedi- 
 cated to many gods ? The former idea is supported by the fact 
 that there are still traceable twelve approaches to the ruins, in dif- 
 ferent directions, each avenue broad enough for two chariots. "We 
 explored two of them, of which half a mile has been excavated. 
 One leads from Luxor ; the other, at right an^rles with the first, leads 
 from the river-bank in front. Each is ornamented with a row 
 of colossal Sphinxes, placed at intervals of six feet, not unlike the 
 statuary which adorns the approach to the Ming Tombs in China. 
 The entrances at the terminations of these avenues are surmounted 
 by gate-ways such as a Titan might construct, and these gate-ways 
 open into a series of propylsea, or vestibules, which have dimensions 
 that can only be compared with the bases of the Pyramids. Our 
 first visit to Karnak was nade at the end of the avenue of Luxor. 
 It is adorned with a winged sun. We passed through four succes- 
 sive propyloea into an open area, which has received so many names 
 !i8 to be practically nameless. Some writers call it the " Hall of 
 the Gods," some the " Hall of the Kings," others the " Hall of 
 Columns." It is three hundred and thirty feet long, and one hun- 
 dred and sixty-four feet wide. On each side of it, near the wall, is 
 a row of columns, one hundred and thirty-four in number. They 
 
!^ I 
 
 584 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 are forty-three feet high, and each is a monolitli, with a diameter 
 of twelve feet. In the centre of the hall are two other rows ot 
 columns, seventy-two feet high, also monoliths, and the several 
 rows have the effect of dividing the hall into a nave with two side- 
 aisles. All were roofed, the nave, of course, higher than the aisles. 
 The ceiling of all was of massive hewn tlat stone ; it has long sinee 
 fallen to the ground. All the columns have highly-wrought and 
 magnificent capitals, no two of them alike in design. The columns 
 nearest the walls arc chiefly ornamented with the flowering lotus ; 
 
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 OOLUMKS AT KABNAK. 
 
COLUMNS AT KARNAK. 
 
 68S 
 
 the columns which support the nave comhine figures of birds with 
 the lotus leaves and branches. The surfaces of the i)illar8 are di- 
 vided into circular panels, arranged one above the other. These 
 panels are covered with shields, on which are elaborately carved 
 and painted with rich colors innumerable mythological and his- 
 torical devices and emblems. The darkness of this stupendous 
 chamber was only relieved by the faint light admitted through 
 small grated windows placed in the wall which divided the ceiling 
 of the nave and that of the aisles. Some of the columns in the 
 chamber are now prostrate, others have swerved from their places 
 and fallen against other columns, or against the walls. The mys- 
 terious gloom which must have originally pervaded the chamber 
 has passed away, and it now seems merely an endless and confused 
 forest of columns, which has been swept and desolated by the tem- 
 pest. Though an inscription on one of these noble cohnnns shows 
 an antiquity of three thousand three hundred and twenty years, 
 the masonry, as well as the sculpture and painting, has the fresh- 
 ness of yesterday. In no part of the ruin, either on column, archi- 
 trave, or wall, is there ivy or moss, mould or stain. Such is the 
 climate ot the Nile. Bold bass-reliefs sculptured on the outer wall 
 represent, in regular chronological order, the events of the cam- 
 paigns of Setis against the Bedouin Arabs, the Assyrians, and the 
 Armenians. In one of those sculptures he is seen seated in his 
 chariot in the thickest of an engagement. On the forehead of one 
 of his horses is inscribed his name — " The Might of Thebes." 
 The enemy flee before him, and take refuge in a fortress. An- 
 other bass-relief presents a different battle-scene Here the enemy 
 fall prostrate on the earth before the terrible countenance of ma- 
 jesty. The king sits proudly erect m his chariot in his attitude of 
 triumph, followed by a train of prisoners in chains, whom ho pre- 
 sents to the gods at Thebes. Another represents the victorious 
 king on his return to Thebes, and welcome^J by his ministers and 
 courtiers on the banks of the Nile, which are crowded with won- 
 dering, awe-stricken crocodiles. One of the bass-reliefs is particu- 
 larly ii >eresting, from its being a contemporaneous confirmation of 
 Jewish scrr^. tural history : 
 

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KING SIIISIIAK'. 
 
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 " And it oatno to pass t/iat in tlu' fifth year ol' Kinjj; Roliohoam, 
 Shlshak, Kiii!^ of Egypt, came up against Jerusalem, because tliey 
 had transgressed against the Loun, with twelve hiuuh'ed chariots, 
 and threescore thousand horseiuen : and the pe()j)ie tvere without 
 number tliat came with him out of Egypt ; the Lubims, the 8uk- 
 kims, and the Ethlo{)ians." 
 
 "So Shishak, King of Egypt, came up against Jerusah'ui, and 
 took away the treasures of the house of the Loun, and the treasures 
 of the king's house; he took all : ho carried away also the shields 
 of gold which Solomon had made." 
 
 Shishak is represented raising his arm and striking a long group 
 of prisoners who are crouching at his feet. At the side of the 
 victor arc seen several fortifications which bear the names of towns 
 in Palestine, which Shishak subdued. Still another tablet on the 
 walls must be mentioned. It recites the entire text of an Egyjitian 
 poem, composed in commemoration of the victories of Ramescs II. 
 The obelisk of Queen Ilatasou, which is said to bo the highest in 
 the world, stands near the great hall, on a pedestal of dimensions 
 scarcely larger than the foot of the obelisk itself. "What skill must 
 it have required to raise it froni the ground, and place it securely 
 on that narrow pedestal ! An inscription, written perpendicularly 
 on the obelisk, gives its tiate and dedication to Queen Ilatason, 
 regent, three thousand five hundred and thirty years ago. An 
 inscription on the base records that the top was covered with gold, 
 the spoils of battle, and that the obelisk itself was gilded. 
 
 The court or area which lies between the temple and the propy- 
 laea on the river-side presents a scene not less unique than melan- 
 choly. It is larger even than the Hall of Columns, which v»'e have 
 described. It is studdcl with pedestals even more numerous than, 
 and equally gigantic with, those in the other hall, each one of which 
 bore a column equally majestic ; over these must have been stretched 
 a roof as stupendous and massive. But of this vast structure, not 
 only the roof, but all the columns have fallen, save only one, yet 
 erect on its pedestal, as a solitary representative of the departed 
 gi'andeur. Making a circuit around the ruins of Karnak, Ave found 
 a great reservoir of Nile-water, collected as it oozes through the 
 
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588 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 
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 801*1 imderneatli the temple, at the flood. It is so deeply imjDreg- 
 nated with nitre, that the Government uses its deposits for the 
 manufiicture of gunpowder. From the bank of thi^ reservoir we 
 looked upward through one of the excavated Sphinx avenues. It 
 now presents a very curious spectacle. The great highway is 
 fenced in, its pavement has been removed or buried in the earth, 
 and it is now a vegetable-garden. The Sphinxes, however, still 
 remain on guard, to prevent Bedouin depredations of water-melon 
 and sweet-potato beds, as patiently as they guarded of old the 
 approach of kings and priests to the sanctuary. "While we stood 
 mrsing on the strange freaks of Time, a hyena, startled by the noi?e 
 of our coming, rushed out of a recess underneath one of the fallen 
 columns, among the debris which we had been unable to penetrate, 
 and made his escape over the sands to some safer haunt in the 
 desert. 
 
 Antiquaries are much exercised with the inquiry, By what 
 agency has the devastation of Karnak been effected ? They indulge 
 in various conjectures. One attributes the work to the earthquake ; 
 but there is no record of earthquakes. A second, that one of the 
 Ptolemies committed the devastation by siege. But those princes 
 seem to have been disposed rather to preserve and embellish tiie 
 magnificent monuments of Egypt, than to destroy them. A third, 
 that the nitrous Nile-water has dissolved the earthen foundations. 
 But, making all allowances for the absence of frost, of snow, and of 
 rain, in this extraordinary climate, is it not more wonderful that 
 Karnak resisted so long, than that it is now found so slowly pasting 
 away ? 
 
 "With the conquest of Cambyses, the ancient Egyptian church 
 and state (to the glories of which Karnak was dedicated) began to 
 decline. They gave way to reh'gions and governments which were 
 hostile. Other systems, equally alien and hostile, have followed. 
 It is more than two thousand years since Egypt has had for a ruler 
 cither an adherent of the ancient religion, or a descendant of tlic 
 ancient kings or people. "We s;iw Karnak first in broad daylight, 
 but afterward in the early night illuminated by the evanescent blue 
 light ; but we saw it last under the bright moonlight, which, while 
 
THE COLOSSI. 
 
 589 
 
 is so deeply impreg- 
 
 its deposits for the 
 
 of t\\u reservoir we 
 
 Sphinx avenues. It 
 
 le great highway is 
 
 buried in the eartli, 
 
 liinxcs, however, still 
 
 ations of water-melon 
 
 guarded of old the 
 
 ary. While we stood 
 
 I, startled by the noise 
 
 leath one of the fallen 
 
 n unable to penetrate, 
 
 le safer haunt in the 
 
 the inquiry. By what 
 
 fected? They indulge 
 
 ork to the earthquake ; 
 
 econd, that one of the 
 
 ge. But those princes 
 
 ■ve and embellish the 
 
 stroy them. A third, 
 
 earthen foundations. 
 
 frost, of snow, and of 
 
 more wonderful that 
 
 bund so slowly passing 
 
 lent Egyptian church 
 as dedicated) began to 
 ivernments which were 
 hostile, have followed, 
 ypt has had for a ruler 
 ir a descendant of tlic 
 first in broad daylight, 
 by the evanescent blue 
 loonlight, whicli. while 
 
 it subdues irregularities, deepening' and lengthening the shadows, 
 imparts new majesty and beauty to all objects of Nature and art. 
 
 Leaving the ruin, we mounted our donkevs, and bv the liirht 
 of blazing torches made our way through Sphinx avenue back to 
 Luxor, stopping at times to look whether a fox that we saw steal 
 through the gate-way, or a hyena, w^as at our heels. "We arrived 
 safely at the consulate, and there, seated on cushions on the hos- 
 pitable house-top, around a table one foot high, we dined after the 
 Turkish manner, with the vice-consul, the governor being also a. 
 guest, upon the substantials, dainties, and delicacies of the season. 
 At this feast, each party, taking care not to interfere with the equal 
 rights of others, dipped the spoon into a common bowl of .soup, and 
 with his own fingers took off the parts he liked best in a succession 
 of kids, sheep, and turkeys, roasted whole. These viands gave 
 place to a long course of sweets and comfits, water-melons, dates, 
 and apricots. Coffee and chibouques followed with chateau Mar- 
 gaux, Steinberger cabinet, champagne, a*^d sherry, all brought 
 from the pantry of the Crocodile. Here we poured out libations 
 to Aramon, Osiris, Isis, and Horns, such as certainly were unknown 
 to ancient Thebes, and such as only those good Mohammedans who 
 attain the dignity of foreign consuls permit their Christian guests 
 to enjoy. The excellent host and the governor did not disdain to 
 join in these offerings — a circumstance which we should not men- 
 tion if we supposed these notes would ever be translated into Arabic. 
 
 Mai/ l^th. — It was yet dark when we took a small boat and 
 rowed down the Nile. We landed on the low, western, sandy 
 bank, and proceeded on donkeys directly across the plain. Under 
 the light of the rising sun, the distant Colossi assumed more and 
 more their proper and majestic forms and proportions. We halted 
 between them. Recognized by antiquity as one of the wonders of 
 the world, they ^re less wonderful than the dispute which has so 
 long prevailed in regard to the purpose for which they were built. 
 Tliehes must have been a city of religions, ])hiloBophic, and political 
 ideas. The people dwelt chiefly on the eastern bank of the river, 
 while the western bank became their cemetery.. Neither at Luxor 
 
590 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTIXE. 
 
 
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 nop at Karnak did we find a trace of an ancient tomb or grave. 
 On tlie western bank here, we found little else than a universal 
 cemetery. All modern cemeteries are ornamented with monumen- 
 tal gate-ways, churches, and chapels. What more natural than tluit 
 the portals of the cemetery of Thebes should be gi-aced with thc.-e 
 two colossal statues ? Amenophis III. dedicated them to deified 
 kings. He designed by them to impress the pilgrims to the tombs 
 with awe, and he was successful. In a superstitious age, not only 
 the Egyptian, but the Persian, Greek, and Roman, heard or ima- 
 gined that he heard, the statue which bears the traditional name of 
 Memnon, wail and sigh in the tones of the ^olian harp. More- 
 over, Memuon was the son of Aurora. How natural it was that he 
 should greet his divine mother morning and evening ! Nobody 
 believes this story now, but, two thousand years ago, no one doubted 
 it. The Colossi are sixty feet high, in a sitting posture, indicating 
 contemplation. While Thebes remained to its Egyptian founders, 
 the Colossi, which originally were monolith?, retained their shape, 
 and Memnon continued his mysterious, oracular utterances. I'ut 
 an earthquake shattered both. Memnon's voice became feeble; 
 nay, it began to be questioned whether he spoke at all. The good 
 Roman emperor, Septimus Severus, reconstructed them, employing 
 the best architects to restore Memnon's speech. But tl • imperial 
 surgery failed. Memnon became actually dumb. Ilappilj, the 
 repairs then made, although M'ith coarse materials, have preserved 
 the statue to the present day. 
 
 Men's habits arc formed from their instincts. Egypt excited 
 strong interest in Rome in the time of the emperors. The Konian 
 travellers ambitiously inscribed, on the pedestal of Menmon, the 
 records of their visits and observations. Wf/inan was woman 
 eighteen hundred years ago. " I, Salina Augusta, wife of tiie Em- 
 peror Augustus Civsar, have twice heard Memnon within one 
 hour." This is one of the inscriptions. There are hundreds of 
 other inscriptions which, although written so long ago, are more 
 easily read now than those written twenty years ago in our coun- 
 try church-yards. Under the necessity of improving the cooler part 
 of the day, for fatiguing observations and explorations, wo passed, 
 
THE MUMMY-PITS. 
 
 691 
 
 ent tomb or grave, 
 se than a universal 
 ited with monumeii- 
 )re natural than that 
 )e gi-aced with thcve 
 ted them to deified 
 »ilgrims to the tombs 
 titious age, not only 
 iman, heard or iiua- 
 3 traditional name of 
 Eolian harp. More- 
 natural it was that he 
 I evening! Nobody 
 s ago, no one doubted 
 ig posture, indicating 
 ts Egyptian tbundcvs, 
 , retained their shape, 
 ular utterances. I'lit 
 voice became feeble; 
 loke at all. The good 
 cted them, employing 
 ch. But the impcriiil 
 dumb. Happily, the 
 ;crials, have preserved 
 
 tincts. Egypt excited 
 Inperors. The Koniun 
 jcstal of Menmon, the 
 
 Wcman was woman 
 Igusta, wife of the Em- 
 
 Memnon within one 
 'here are hundreds of 
 Iso long ago, are more 
 l-ears ago in our coun- 
 Lroving rhe cooler i>art 
 Iplorations, wo passed, 
 
 witliont stopping, the ruins of Deir-el-Medineh, Medeenet Ilaboo, 
 and the Rameseuin. A mountain-spur of white sand-rock projects 
 here toward the river-bank. Upon the ledge we found the rock 
 pierced with parallel tiers of catacombs. These catacoaibs, not 
 improperly called muunny-pits, are four, eight, or tea feet deep. 
 "We soon became weary of counting them. Each one has been 
 robbed of its contents. History, we know not how truly, says that 
 the depredations began with the Arab conquest. If this be true, 
 then it would appear that at the very period when the nations of. 
 "Western Africa were selling their living children into slavery to 
 Europeans, the dwellers in Eastern Africa were selling the remains 
 of the dead as objects of curiosity to the same men. The Arab 
 invaders of Egypt did not stop at this ; they used the inflammable 
 mummy-cases for fuel, and the grave-clothes for lights. "We may 
 judge of the extent of this past trade in mummies, from the collec- 
 tions which are found in Europe and America. The Khedive has 
 put a stop to these barbarous spoliations. Of course, the great 
 luass of the dead yet remain hidden and undisturbed. Calculations, 
 b:\sed on the estimated population of Thebes, and the average dura- 
 tion of human life, give the number of bodies which are buried in 
 this necropolis alone at eight or ten millions. Having crossed the 
 ledge, we entered a dark and rugged mountain-pass, leading to the 
 desert. Here, the cemetery shows another character; elaborate 
 and costly tombs have been excavated on either side of the ravine, 
 in the form of square chambers, and in tiers or terraces, all built so 
 as to command a view of the plain below. As we looked up from 
 our path into these excavations, we mistook them for deserted bat- 
 teries. "Wo deviated so as to look into two or three of them. 
 They consist invariiil>ly of an antechamber, like a chapel, which 
 communicates by a stone staircase with a narrow tomb below. It 
 is supposed that the relatives and friends of the deceased were 
 accustomed to assemble in the outer chamber. The walls, as well 
 as the ceilings of the chamber, arc richly ornamented with sculp- 
 tures, intaglios and pnintings, the colors of which are as clear and 
 bright as if laid on yesterday. The subjects of these ornaments arc 
 sometimes religious rites, sometimes events in the life and career 
 
592 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
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 of the dead. One of them exhibits tlie deceased as general of tlio 
 Soudan, arriving among a motley people, and taking possession of 
 his government. Some of his subjects are negroes, have olive com- 
 plexions and negro features ; others have Circassian features witli 
 olive complexions. Some are red men, and, strange to say, there is 
 a mixture of white women. The animals of that region are painted 
 with considerable effect. There arc giraffes, oxen with long horns, 
 and oxen with their legs terminating in human hands. Presents 
 are brought to the governor, of gold rings and vases, bronze and 
 silver horses and lions, silver oars for boats, and ostrich-feathers. 
 The inscriptions carry us back to the nineteenth Egyptian dynasty. 
 Farther onward, the same pass branches into two ravines. Here is 
 the Westminster Abbey, or rather the St.-Denis, of ancient Egypt. 
 One ravine seems to have been appropriated to the tombs of queens, 
 the other to the tombs of kings. The paths which lead to both are 
 indescribably rugged and desolate. The rocks in which these tombs 
 are excavated, never receiving rain or dew, seem to be heated Avitii 
 internal fires. Massive door-ways of the tombs are opened into tl^c 
 flicc of the mountain ; then a descending, smooth, inclined plane 
 conducts to the tombs, which are excavated at a lower depth of the 
 rock. The tombs consist of a succession of vaulted chambers of 
 various dimensions ; some are only twenty feet square, some forty, 
 eighty, or a hundred feet long, and proportionately wide. Some- 
 times one chamber opens directly into another in a straight line, 
 while there are larger chambers on either side. Sometimes a cor- 
 ridor traverses the tomb. The outer chambers have, as in the cata- 
 combs before mentioned, audience-chambers or chapels. Many of 
 them are obviously built as banqueting-rooms for costly entertain- 
 ments of friends of the dead. 
 
 Strabo, in the first century, described the tombs of the kings. 
 He gave their number at forty. Only twenty-five of these have 
 been opened. This has been a task of no small difficulty, because 
 in every case the cave was found not only hermetically scaled, hut 
 the door-way itself was covered with a debris so artificially heaped 
 as to baffle search for the sacred place. All travellers describe ono 
 of these tombs which was discovered by Belzoni some fifty years 
 
THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS. 
 
 593 
 
 5ed as general of the 
 taking possession of 
 roes, have olive com- 
 cassian features with 
 ;range to say, there is 
 jat region are painted 
 )xen with long horns, 
 lan hands. Presents 
 md vases, bronze and 
 and ostrich-feathers, 
 ith Egyptian dynasty, 
 two ravines. Here is 
 nis, of ancient Egypt. 
 :o the tombs of queens, 
 which lead to both are 
 :s in which these tombs 
 seem to be heated with 
 lbs are opened into tl^e 
 mooth, inclined plane 
 at a lower depth of the 
 f vaulted chambers of 
 feet square, some forty, 
 iionately wide. Soine- 
 her in a straight line, 
 ide. Sometimes a cor- 
 lers have, as in the cata- 
 or chapels. Many of 
 ns for costly entertain- 
 
 ic tombs of the kings. 
 cnty-iive of these have 
 mall difficulty, because 
 hermetically sealed, hut 
 is so artificially heaped 
 travellers describe ono 
 3elzoni some fifty years 
 
 ago, and called by him the tomb of Setis. It is the most magnifi- 
 cent of them all. Strange to say, though it was so carefully hidden, 
 it had already been violated when he opened it. Within this and 
 the other tombs, the visitor penetrates a world entirely dilierent 
 from that which we inhabit. Tlie entire life of the deceased is 
 presented in monumental painting, sculpture, and hieroglyphics, ou 
 the walls of the successive chambers. He is seen at home with his 
 family. Every thing around him wears a chimerical aspect. He is 
 holding intercourse with gods in grotesque forms, unknown else- 
 where. Long, slimy serpents glide through the chambers and lie 
 around the door. Manifestly this is the scene of the trial and judg- 
 ment of the dead. All the arrangements of the chamlter and its 
 embellishments are desig.icd to produce an eifect of awe and so 
 lemnity. Scenes of cruelty and torture are represented by hideous 
 fig-arcs ; culprits and prisoners are undergoing death by decapita- 
 tion or by burning. These, indeed, are very unnatural ; but who 
 shall say that, considering the early age to which they belong, they 
 are more absurd than the fantistical torture of the wicked in the 
 conceptions of Dante and Michael Angelo ? • 
 
 Antiquaries suppose that the scenes of torture and cruelty 
 painted on the walls were designed to illustrate the trial through 
 which the deceased is passing in his successive aninuil transfor- 
 mations preparatory to a happy resurrection on the earth. The 
 idea finds support in the historical fact that, according to the 
 Eiiyptian polity, kings were supposed always to undergo a trial 
 after death. 
 
 These chambers of cruelty and torture are succeeded by others, 
 which are more cheerful in aspect. Here the ornamentation illus- 
 trates the process of purification through which the soul is passing. 
 Tlie last chamber, always the lowest, shows its I'.appy reception 
 into the family of the gods. In these hap])icr chambers the walls 
 ure covered with hieroglyphics, in which the wandering soul recites 
 the praises of the gods, and at last, the trial being past, the soul 
 celebrates its triumph. After examining minutely the tomb of 
 Setis, we looked into that of Eameses II. Here there is a suit£ of 
 chambers on either side of the great reception-hall. These cham- 
 
mt 
 
 594 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 flKMnM, 
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 bers present numberless simply natural scenes. There are boats, 
 furniture, utensils, bows, arrows, and other weapons. Musicians 
 play on the lyre. The chambers in this tomb, moreover, are not 
 arranged in a straight line, but in the shape of a T, or cross. This 
 difference from the customary form is found to have been a depart- 
 ure from the original plan ot construction. If the excavation had 
 been carried straight forward, it would have invaded a tomb already 
 built. In this tomb of Rameses was found a red-granite sarcopha- 
 gus cut in the form of a shield. Sad to &ay, this beautiful ceno- 
 taph is now on exhibition in the museum of the Louvre at Paris, 
 and its lid graces the University of Cambridge. 
 
 The one feature of Egyptian civilization, which in modern times 
 seems to be the most absurd, is the importance they assigned to 
 brute animals. They not only worshipped in idol-forms the ox and 
 the cow, but they embalmed and buried with religious rites fishes, 
 crocodiles, eats, and dogs, and one of the pyramids at Saccara is the 
 receptacle of mummied birds only. So we have found everywhere 
 similar relics. Doubtless the ancient Egyptian ftiith regarded the 
 animal forms which they thus preserved as the tenements of tlie 
 souls of monarchs, friends, or enemies. 
 
 It was quite eleven o'clock when, on our return from the tombs 
 of the kings, we came back to the tomb Deir-el-Medeenet. This 
 temple was a structure built in honor of the Queen-regent Ilatason, 
 whose obelisk at Karnak we have already mentioned. The temple 
 was raised after her death to commemorate the glory of her admin- 
 istration. A series of courts rise one above another by terraces, 
 giving the structure the appearance of a fortification or ramparts. 
 Its embellishments consist of tableaux, which show us Ilatason re- 
 ceiving her counsellors at the court of her brother Thoutmosis II. ; 
 as regent under her brother Thoutmosis III. ; and last as herself, a 
 sovereign ; of armies marching out to conquest, of battles and cor.- 
 quests in Arabiaj of prisoners taken and tributes received, of vessels 
 riding the Kile, laden with treasures and spoils ; and, among others, 
 one of marked mythological intent, presenting the Egyptian goddess 
 identical with the Grecian Venus, in the form of a beautiful cow 
 suekhng an infant Egyptian king. 
 
THE RAMESEUM. 
 
 50' 
 
 I ■ 
 
 There are bouts, 
 ,'eapons. Musicians 
 ), moreover, are not 
 a T, or cross. This 
 have been a dcpart- 
 the excavation had 
 /aded a tomb ab-eady 
 •ed-granite sarcopiua- 
 , this beautiful ceno- 
 the Louvre at Paris, 
 
 e. 
 
 hieh in modern timos 
 mce they assigned to 
 idol-forms the ox and 
 L religious rites fishes, 
 ,mids at Saccara is the 
 ave found everywhere 
 ian faith regarded the 
 the tenemcuts of the 
 
 return from the tombs 
 2ir-el-Mcdeenet. This 
 ^ueen-regent Ilatason, 
 -ntioncd. The teuivle 
 le o-lory of her admin- 
 e another by terraces. 
 tification or ramparts. 
 show us Ilatason re- 
 rothur Thoutmosis II.; 
 and last as herself, a 
 lest, of battles and cor.- 
 iites received, of vessels 
 ils ; and, among others, 
 g the Egyptian goddess 
 )rm of a beautiful cow 
 
 • J 
 
 We have seen no temple resembling the Rameseum, the Temple 
 of Rameses III. It is a combination of temple and royal palace. 
 The architecture of the palatial part is perfect. Consoles prepared 
 for holding awnings over the doors are supported by prostrate pris- 
 ouers of war. At great hazard we climbed over a high, broken 
 wall, and reached chambers in a second story. In these chambers 
 are bass-reliefs, much defaced, which represent the Icing in his own 
 house surrounded by his family. One woman presents him with 
 flowers, he plays chess with another, and receives fruit from an- 
 other with a caress. On the walls of another chamber the great 
 achievements of the kmg are presented. Here a picture of the 
 king is deciphered and explained by Charnpollion : " lie leaves his 
 palace in a richly-ornamented chariot. He sits covered with ostrich- 
 feathers on a throne supported by statues of Justice and Truth ; he 
 is attended by twelve aides-de-camp, and is followed by relations, 
 friends, and priests ; his son and heir burns incense before him. 
 The white bull follows, and the procession is closed by nineteen 
 priests, bearing sacred ensigns, vases, and vessels of worship. Fi- 
 nallv arrived at the place of inauguration, four birds, the offspring 
 of Osiris, are set loose to announce to the north, the south, the 
 east, and the west, that Rameses has put on his crown." The 
 electric telegraph of the ancients ! Ten galleries contain tableaux 
 illustrative of the military achievements of the king. "We recog 
 nize the nationalities of prisoners of war, though the pictures were 
 made three thousand years ago. Among them are Libyans, Ara- 
 bians, and Ethiopians. How curious it is to find among the captives 
 the Philistines, who so long maintained war with the Israelites ! 
 A legend over the head of each prisoner gives his name. Ambition 
 seems to have done little '^Ise but repeat itself since the time of 
 Rameses. One picture exhibits a basket filled with the hands of 
 prisoners, which were cut ofi" on the battle-field, and brought to the 
 king as trophies. This practice, though it antedates by far the North- 
 American custom of scalping the deceased enemy, is akin to it. 
 The Rameseum was for Egypt what the triumphal arch of Adrian 
 was for Rome, what the Arc de Triomphe is for France. Here is 
 the speech which one of the Egyptia" gods addresses to a victorious 
 
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 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 
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 chief : " I turn my face to the north, and I see Phoenicia lying at 
 your feet ; it is my will that the natives bring you their silver, their 
 gold, and tlieir precious stones. I look eastward, and I see Arabia 
 furnishing you with pei'fumes, rare woods, and fruits. 1 turn niy 
 face to the west, and I command the inhabitants of Libya to rend<!r 
 you their honuige." 
 
 Wherein does the Trumbull Gallery in the rotunda of the C:i})- 
 itol at Washington diti'er from the ten triumphal galleries of the 
 Rameseum 'i 
 
 A gigantic statue of the great liamescs at full length, and 
 scarcely less majestic than Memnon, has been shaken from its Ijase 
 and broken into massive fragments, its lace upward, and half buried 
 in the sand. What a prototype is this of the overthrow of the 
 Colonne Vendome and the gigantic imperial statue which crowned 
 it in the late revolution in France ! 
 
 While Memphis was the capital of ancient Egypt, Thebes was 
 the chosen seat of science and religion. It was an ornamental city, 
 the pride of the Egyptians. Wo do not, indeed, find here all that 
 Homer describes, but we are not at liberty to regard his description 
 of Thebes as an exaggeration. Certainly the kings and the people 
 who raised Karnak and Luxor, the Menmonium, the llameseuin and 
 the Pyramids, the Sphinx and the tombs of the kings and queen.s, 
 may well be believed to have had the necessary wealth, strength, 
 and taste, to surround the city of their pride with a wall whicl) was 
 pierced with a hundred gates, and to send from each gate two hun- 
 dred knights and two hundred chariots. 
 
 Medeenet Ilaboo teaches an important lesson. This ancient 
 temple was, until lately, completely buried under a mean and 
 wretched Arab village. In the process of excavation, not only the 
 original Egyptian temple waij found, but a Christian church, with 
 pillars, cornices, architraves, ch.'.ncel, and oratorio, on Greek models. 
 The penury of Grecian arcliite(3ture compared with the majesty of 
 the ancient Egyptian was never so effectually illustrated. The col- 
 umns of Osiris are sixty feet high and thirty-six feet in diameter, 
 and, with their lotus-leaved capitals, fill an area of an acre. The 
 Christian church is crowded within a quarter of that area. Its 
 
ec Phoenicia lying at 
 you their silver, their 
 aril, and I sec Arabia 
 id fruits. 1 turn my 
 its of Libya to rend<!r 
 
 le rotunda of the Cup- 
 [uphal galleries of the 
 
 ;s at full length, and 
 n shaken from its base 
 ipward, and half buried 
 ' the overthrow of the 
 statue which crowiit'd 
 
 ent Egypt, Thebes was 
 sras an ornamental city, 
 Iced, find here all that 
 y regard his deserii)tioii 
 le kings and the people 
 ium, the llameseuni and 
 the kings and queeiif;, 
 essary wealth, strength, 
 3 with a wall which was 
 rom each gate two hun- 
 
 lesson. This ancient 
 cd under a mean and 
 xcavation, not only the 
 
 Christian church, with 
 itorio, on Greek niodeU. 
 •ed with the majesty of 
 ly illustrated. The col- 
 •ty-six feet in diameter, 
 
 area of an acre. The 
 irter of that area. Its 
 
 A SAFE PREDICTION". 
 
 597 
 
 dated columns are eighteen feet high, and seven feet in circum- 
 i'crcnco. 
 
 We have finished our survey of Thebes, wc liave noticed the 
 devastation made by the Persian, the Greek, the Roman, the Chris- 
 tian, and the Arab, and how much, after all, remains ? It is safe 
 to predict that, when every civil and religious edifice now exist- 
 ing in Europe or the United States shall have fallen to the earth 
 the already dilapidated monuments of Egypt will have under'>-oue 
 scarcely a perceptible change. 
 
 CAPITALB OF COLUMNS AT ESNnn. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
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 ESNEH, EDFOU, ASSOUAN, AND PHILM 
 
 The Coptic Convents. — Youssef and his Donliey. — Our Steamer aground. — The Ruins of 
 Esneh. — The Temple of Edfou. — Assouan, — Its Surprising Activity. — Its Airicnn 
 Population. — The Ancient Quarries. — Philae and the Cataracts of the Nile.— A Moii. 
 ument of the First French Republic. 
 
 • 
 
 Esneh, May 'iXst. — If time would allow, it would bo an interest- 
 ing task to visit tlio Coptic convents wliicli are found in small aiiii 
 poor villages on the desert verge. Their history is a touching one. 
 They were founded as a refuge for the Coptic Christians from a 
 decree of the Emperor Diocletian, and they were again sought a- 
 an asylum by the Copts — who had become Christians, when diivcn 
 away by tlie Mussulman conquerors from their home [»t Medeciut 
 Ilaboo. Their present tenants are represented as being very poor, 
 and as retaining of Christianity little more than a ritual of the earlv 
 Church. 
 
 The courteous governor and the hospitable consul took leave of 
 us at a late hour on the night of the 19th, with good wishes for the 
 voyage we were about to resume. Our favorite English-spealciiiif 
 donkey-boy, Youssef, petitioned us to take him with us to the 
 United States, but he depends on his vocation to support his wid- 
 owed mother. -"We raised steam and cast oif from the bank at day- 
 light, passed Edfou without stopping, but either our pilot was at 
 fault, or sand-bars had suddenly changed. We came to a dead stop. 
 Sultan Pacha, at that moment, coming down the river with hit 
 
RUINS OF ESNEn. 
 
 599 
 
 steamer of lighter draught, threw us a rope, and drew us over the 
 obstructions. So we fixed our stake on the bank at Esneh. It is a 
 small village, whose principal occupation it is to coal the govern- 
 ment steamers. There is here an Egyptian temple, which is 
 approached closely at high water. We, however, were obliged to 
 traverse a sandy plain, a mile wide, under the noonday sun. The 
 ruins, like those of Medeenet Ilaboo, were buried beneath an Arab 
 village, a part of which still remains. Only the great hall of the tcm- 
 
 W PHJLjE. 
 
 earner aground.— The Ruma of 
 rprishig Activity.— Its Airicaii 
 Cataracts of the Nile.— A Mou- 
 
 lt would be an interest- 
 1 are found in small aii<i 
 listory is a touching oik'. 
 loptic Christians from a 
 ey were again sought n^ 
 Christians, Avhcn driven 
 ;heir home i^t Medeenet 
 inted as being very poor, 
 ,han a ritual of the early 
 
 ible consul took leave of 
 with good wishes for the 
 avorite English-speaking 
 ike him with us to the 
 ition to support his ^vi(l■ 
 )ff from the bank at day- 
 either our pilot was at 
 AVe came to a dead stop. 
 lown the river with hi» 
 
 T0U8SEK AND HIS DONKFV. 
 
 pie has been excavated. Unfortuuaccly, this chamber is discolored by 
 smoke ; doubtless it was used ignominiously by the Arabs. The 
 spectator is struck by seeing on the ceiling a perfect table of the 
 zodiac, in which all the circumferential emblems are identical with 
 those of our own tables of the constellations, excepting Cancer, the 
 Crab, which resembles the scarabreus or sacred beetle. The ancient 
 Egyptian ornamentation of the great hall has given place to more 
 modem embellishmeuts — among them the shields of the Eoman 
 Emperors Claudius. Domitian, Septimus Severus, Commodus, and 
 
 f* 
 
• 
 
 600 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 Caracallrt. The bass-reliefs and sculptures are in a low style of art, 
 showing a great decline in sculpture and painting after the Persian 
 and Greek conquest, but these faults are redeemed by the Burpnss- 
 ing beauty of the columns. They prove that, for a time at least, 
 Egyptian architecture improved under the Grecian chisel. Thoic 
 arc twenty-five of these colunms, each M-itli an exquisite capital, 
 but no two alike. The lotus is the principal ornament of all df 
 them, and is treated at every stage of its development. Doubtless 
 the religious ideas of the Egyptians underwent a modification, after 
 the Grecian conquest, not unlike their principles of art. 
 
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 Edfou, May 22f7. — "W"e reached Edfou last night, and were wel- 
 comed by bonfires which extended a mile along the river-bank. 
 "We hastened through the little village, to explore the celebrated 
 temple. Its excavation has been one of the most successful achieve- 
 ments of the Khedive. A dozen years ago, men dwelt, horses 
 travelled, bread was baked, and goods were sold, on its roof; and, 
 if the Arab ever planted trees around his dwelling, their roots 
 would have effected an entrance into the sacred chambers of tlie 
 goes. Like the temple at Dendera, it has an immense propyla?niii, 
 and a vast number of chambers. The whole, happily, is so well 
 preserved, that an architect finds no difficulty in reproducing the 
 original plan and arrangement. So Edfou serves as a key to many 
 ruined temples wliich, like Karnak, have been unintelligible. Tliis 
 temple bears the signature of the architect, which, in justice to 
 him, we transcribe : 
 
 " Ei-EM-noTEP Oer-si-Piitah." 
 (Imoutliosis, Grandson of Phtah.) 
 
 IB 
 
 Ki 
 
 ,1 
 
 ..a 
 
 Like the temple at Esneh, this one at Edfou is modem. It w;)s 
 begun by Ptolemy Philopater 204 b. c, and completed with decora- 
 tions only in Si b. c. Our discontent, at finding ourselves in a tem- 
 ple only two thousand years old, was relieved when we went into 
 the sanctum sanctorum^ and found a huge \'ault or chest cut out ol 
 one solid block of granite, and which was the depository of tlie 
 mysterious emblems of the temple which, in earlier and happier 
 
ASSOUAN. 
 
 001 
 
 times, had covered tlio site of the inodoni structure. This vault 
 boars au inscription which cites that it was wr()u<,dit into its present 
 8hai»e at the (quarry hy order of King Xectanebus, who tiourished 
 three hundred and tifty years before this temple was built. The 
 dimensions of the toniplo arc : width, one hundred and thirty-one 
 feet ; depth, two hundred and thirty-six feet. The ornamentations 
 are uf the same general character as those at Dcndera, consisting 
 mainly of representations of sacred ceremonies and mythological 
 devices. The work is not less elaborate, and the coloring, owing 
 perhaps to the excavation being new, is as fresh and bright as if 
 put on yesterday. Betts Bey's illumination of this wonderful hall 
 by blue lights was the most magnificent pyrotechnic exhibition that 
 can be inuigined. 
 
 Idfon is modem. It wk 
 d completed with decor:.- 
 nding ourselves in a tcra- 
 eved when we went into 
 
 N'ault or chest cut out of 
 tis the depository of tlie 
 
 ,, in earlier and happier 
 
 jUsouan, May 22d. — The river above Edfou contracts to the 
 width of one thousand feet. The sedgy deserts become precipitous 
 banks, and you can step upon the rocks on either side from the 
 boat. So we notice that we are ncaring the cataract. Though the 
 desert is now so solitary and desolate, the caverns, excavated in 
 terraces, indicate that, in some way, a vast population once filled 
 this narrow, forbidding strait. Many of the caves exhibit the 
 liieroglyphics associated by the ancients with their tombs. Others 
 seem to have been used as dwellings. One of them has, in a recess, 
 a poor and coarse sculpture of their gods in one statue, but the 
 faces are so mutilated that no expression can be detected. And 
 now, when we have come aboard again, the river has lost its monot- 
 onous and gloomy aspect. The Libyan Desert, rising into loftier 
 crests, crowds the river as below, but the Arabian Desert sinks and 
 retreats, and leaves at its base a strip of land covered in succession 
 with rich fields of water-melons, rice, Indian-corn, and orchards of 
 date-palms, alternating with groves of flowering acacias. The isl- 
 and of Elephantina, very small, divides the river, and shuts out 
 both its upper branches from the view. Elephantina is the only 
 green island which the Nile contains. The river on either side is 
 bidden by projecting promontories, and we come to rest in a calm 
 bay, which seems to be the fountain of the Nile. "We sweep through 
 
602 
 
 ECJYIT AND PALESTINE, 
 
 ■•..»«a 
 
 
 !», 
 
 
 
 w 
 
 It;* ■ 5* 
 
 tins, and approacli, on the eastern shore^ the small town of Assouan, 
 built in the sands, and seeming to be a part of the desert itself. 
 
 Assouan is at the foot of the ])ortnge around the cataract, and 
 exhibits an activity as surprising as that at Cheyenne or Onialui. 
 Hut there is no reseniblance in the articles of commerce or the 
 merchants, the trade or the traders, in any other country. Instciul 
 of warehouses, there are open bins, filled with dates and other 
 troj)ical fruits, elephants' tcetli, osl rich-feathers, palm-oil, lion-ykins 
 and tiger-skins, odoriferous and medicinal gums, the barks of trees 
 for bales, tomahawks with ebony handles, lances, and ])ois()iie(l 
 arrows. Stores of rude pottery, and other cheap domestic utcii.sils, 
 from Alexandria and Cairo, are gathered here in other bins, tn 
 exchange for the southern jtroducts mentioned. The stores (»f 
 either kind arc without locks or bars, or watchmen, and, if jtrotccted 
 at all from the sun, it is only by awnings stretched above tlioni. 
 All this merchandise is now awaiting the flood, which will allow 
 small boats to pass over the rocky ledges of the cataract. The little 
 harbor is filled with j)rctty vessels of light burden, among wliich 
 the gay ddhaheah everywhere flaunts its striped lateen-sails. On 
 the brown mountain-top which ovi'rhangs the town are seen tlio 
 fortifications of Arabian concpicrors, carlirr than Saladin. TIioiiJi 
 deserted and iieglected for so many centuries^ tliey seem callable (if 
 reconstruction with a little time and cost. l>ut Assouan is rendcrcil 
 even more interesting by the diversity and strangeness of its jiopiila- 
 tion, than l)y its desert location, the verdant Klephantina, its (pi:iiiit 
 shipi^ing, and its barbaric commerce. No sooner do wc i)ass the 
 Nubian border, than a different race from that of Lower Kirypt 
 presents itself. The iidiabitants are black, neither tawny nor olive. 
 but shiny black. A. few Arabs are seen, but they are manifostly 
 inferior, and servile to the Nubians ; the habitations are AfVie;in. 
 built of the palm, the bamboo, and the cane. The sand of the 
 desert is the floor. Assouan is more African even than Aden. 
 I»ut here, as elsewhere, superior races hold prominence in connnenc 
 Many of the merchants arc Berbers,' Abyssinians, and Libyans. 
 while the laboring population is gathered from the savag(> tribes 
 of inferior Ai'rica. These people arc quite uncivilized, altli()up;h 
 
ANCIF<:NT fJUANITK QUARRIES. 
 
 (\o:\ 
 
 commercial habits have mack; them peaceful and docile. They 
 kiiov.'- as little of the world below Elephantina as they know of 
 their own history. They wonder at the decline of the innocent and 
 icinuncrative slave-trade, anJ still furtively pursue it against all 
 interdictions and remonstrance. The price of an African hand- 
 maid, in an Arabian family, is sixty dollars. Her children niherit 
 iMpially with those of the lawful wife. 
 
 We waited until sunset, and then, mounting camels, made our 
 way throu,ifh narrow, circuitous, un])avc(l, sandy lanes, crowded on 
 citiicr side by bazaars, coil'ee-houses, iTu^stpies, ('optic chaiiels, and 
 iiHul-houses, with barricaded doors and latticed windows. Kmer"- 
 iii^ upon tlie desert, through the widest city gate ever seen, we 
 (•;une into a Mohammedan cemetery, five or six miles in circuin- 
 tbroncc. It is the only cemetery we have ever seen from which 
 overy cheerful association of Nature is excluded. It has neither 
 tree, shrul), plant, nor flower — neither sod nor soil — but oidy the dry 
 sands of the desert, deposited by winds duriiii,' thousands of years. 
 The f:;ravesare (or mi<::ht be) excavated with the human hand, with- 
 out an im])lenuMit. The excavation c"!isists of removin<^ so much 
 suid .a.; will leave the dead body oi: a hnel with the surface of the 
 pliiin, and the sand is heaped ufxtu it. Kach grave is marked by a 
 small, rough stone, usually without inscription. Some families 
 have more and)itious monuments. Thoy build a tomb above the 
 s;uk1, open at the sides. Interment is made by removing the sand 
 beneath, and restoring it when the remains have been thrust in. 
 Travellers, say that the sirocco often uncovers the graves, rendering 
 tiie air ])estilential. AVc were spared such hideous experiences. 
 Leaving the cemetery behind us, we rose some fifty or sixty feet 
 above a ledge of the desert, and rtood in the ancient granite quar- 
 ries of Assouan. The plain is strewed with massive surface stones, 
 which covered the (piarry, and were rolled down the hill-side by 
 some mechanism of more power than we can now conceive. At a 
 height of five hundred feet above the river-bed, we found tlicj 
 smooth bed of the quarry of red granite from which the walls of 
 the chambers of the Pyramids, and the columns of the Temples of 
 Memphis, Thebes, and Dendera, were taken. From here, also, were 
 
604 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 SI'S , 1^ 
 
 • • ,9 
 
 •■fir** 
 
 r. 
 Ik 
 
 
 
 
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 Si 
 
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 ft 
 
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 3i 
 
 quarried the sarcopliagi and statues found in every part of Egypt, 
 and all, or nearly all, of the obelisks which grace European capitals, 
 as well as Ileliopolis, Luxor, and Karnak. It is almost enough to 
 make one fancy that the Egyptians were a Titanic race, when 
 standing in this quarry, and contemplating that, three thousand, 
 four thousand, live thousand years ago, they hewed, without the 
 aid of steam or gunpowder^ the solid mountain into shapes of gran- 
 deur and ornament, with scarcely more time, labor, and cost, than 
 are now expended in framing smaller forms of wood! After con- 
 tinuing for four thousand years a scene of active industry, the quar- 
 ries became silent and solitary all at once. We imderstand there 
 is no record of the erection of any obelisk in Egypt subsequent to 
 the period of the Koman conquest. We left our uncomfortable 
 camels, and climbed up the sides of an obelisk, that had been exca- 
 vated and nearly hewn into shape when the quarry was abandoned, 
 and which has remained exactly in the same condition since. It 
 measures seventy feet in length. Except at the apex, detaclied 
 from the nutive rock on three sides, it is completely chiselled, and 
 ready for polishing. The holes in the rock, on either side, can be 
 seen, which received the wedges used in 8})litting olf the external 
 masses. AV^e recalled here an inscription found on the great obelisk 
 at Karnak. It recites that the monument was excavated at these 
 quarries of Assouan, finished, conveyed to Ivaniak, iind erected on 
 its base there, all within the period of two hundred and ten days. 
 What was the intended destination of this obelisk at Assonant 
 Why was it left unfinished \ Probably an invasion demanded that 
 all subjects of the state should rush to its defence. It is always a 
 sorry and a sad sight to contemplate any great work that has been 
 abandoned incomplete. We wonder that the people of the United 
 States can endure the siiirht of the unfinished monument of Wasli- 
 ington at the capital. ]hit it is infinitely more sad to see a ruin, 
 the construction of which was arrested by a blow that not only 
 arrested that work, but arrested forever the stream of national lil'e. 
 It is with thoughts something like these that one looks over the 
 marblo bh)oks which were just being chiselled to repair the Forum 
 of Pompeii, when the city itself was buried in a night, by the ashes 
 
P1IIL.E. 
 
 605 
 
 from Vesuvius. Historians try to show us how such prodigious 
 labor was possible in ancient Egypt. Tliey conjecture that the 
 Pharaohs were despots, .'Jnd that tlie quarries of Assouan were a 
 prison. But these conjectures are unsatisfactory. Despotism and 
 pciial imprisonment have at some time prevailed in nearly every 
 country on earth, but Egypt is the only country that has built 
 pyramids and excavated obelisks. Devotional ati'ection was tlic 
 strongest in the earliest ages. These Egyptian monuments are the 
 expressions of reverence to the gods. There will be no occasion 
 hereafter for mankind to produce such gigantic utterances in stone. 
 Christian faith and reverence can express a higher and purer dcvo . 
 tion to the Creator by the use of types of lead and a printing-press. 
 The savants who accompanied Bonaparte's army into Egypt re- 
 port that there were then two temples on the island of Elephantina 
 —one facing down the Nile, and called the " Temple of the North ; " 
 one looking upward, and called the " Temple of the South." These, 
 together with a nilometer, have been entirely swept away by inun- 
 dations. There is still remaining there a statue of Osiris, with a 
 date inscribed on it three thousand one hundred years ago. 
 
 
 *■ 
 
 Fhlla', May 23(7. — "We left our boat, with the other shipping at 
 Assouan, at dawn this morning, and came, as usual, mounted on 
 donkeys and camels, through the desert, to this place — the upper 
 verge of the cataract. Our way was over rocky hills and through 
 eipjally desolate ravines, whoso only shade is the naked, overhang- 
 ing mountain-sides ; nor is there on the whole way a single green 
 leaf or blade of grass. An Austrian mission has erected a plain 
 and comfortable edifice here, on the bank of the river, eight miles 
 above Assouan, and facing Philse. This is the customary terminus 
 cif the voyage of all travellers on the Nile, as it Is of ours. Wo 
 find here a curious proof that the ancient Egyi)tians regarded a 
 voyage up the Nile as gratifying an achievement as it is esteemed 
 hy us. The granite rocks hero are covered with inscriptions, re- 
 citing their success in making the great voyage. Some were con- 
 tent with simply registering their names. "William Freeman regis- 
 tered his name in tho same modest way. One ambitious tourist 
 
000 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 engraved himself, in intaglio, reverentially worshipping the gods 
 of the cataract ! The same rocks, curiously enough, contain ac- 
 counts inscribed by Egyptians, by generals, princes, and kings, of 
 their successful expeditions against Ethiopia. The cataract of tlio 
 Kile has its parallel in many countries — the volume of a vast river 
 broken, as it descends to a lower level, by green islands and barren 
 rocks. Such are Sault Ste. Marie, the tails of St. Anthony, the llilis 
 of the Mohawk, and many falls on the Upper Hudson and the Pu- 
 
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 11 
 
 
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 '4i 
 
 tomac. But the cataract of the Nile has a grandeur surpassinfr ali 
 these, in the stern setting of the beautiful picture in a framework 
 of impassable deserts. Out of the midst of the dashing torrent 
 rises the beautiful island of Philre. The Avhole island, a quarter of 
 a mile long, and scarcely more than two hundred feet wide, i? 
 pictures(juely crowned with graceful temples and colonnades. The 
 sites of these structures were chosen by artistic eyes. In this re- 
 spect, Phihe stands alone. Every colonnade and every gate-way wis 
 evidently built with a view to excite the traveller's imagination as lie 
 
svovshipping tlic gods 
 \f cnouglu contain ac- 
 princes, and kings, of 
 The catr.i-act of tlio 
 volume of a vast river 
 •cen islands and barren 
 f St. Anthony, the lali^ 
 sr Hudson and the Pu- 
 
 L grandeur surpassing al! 
 
 picture in a frameworli 
 
 of the dashing torrent 
 
 ■hole island, a quarter of 
 
 hundred feet wide, is 
 
 cs and colonnades. The 
 
 tistic eyes. In this re- 
 
 e and every gate-way wns 
 
 veller's imagination as he 
 
 ) 
 
G08 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 
 'i 
 
 1: 
 
 •"■•IT} 
 
 1»- 
 
 ••'•'I 
 
 ..s- 
 
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 ft 
 
 
 might ai)proaeli tlie sacred island. The firm and lofty bases of the 
 temple seem like a solid wall encircling its entire area. The base, 
 at the same time, serves as a quay for the mooring of the boats of 
 visitors, and affords them chambers to rest in before entering the 
 temple. The architecture of Pliilse is not, like all the ruins we 
 ha^e seen, purely or chiefly Egyptian. The ancient Egyptians only 
 began it. It was completed by the Greeks after Alexander, who 
 were content to improve Egyptian models without destroying them 
 or substituting their own. Ileuce there is a delicacy and grace of 
 execution in the ruins of Philce that is not seen in other Egyptian 
 temples. The ruins give us some interesting modern historical in- 
 formation. Near the close of the fourth century, as every one 
 reads, the Emperor Theodosius, of the Eastern Empire, issued an 
 edict at Constantinople, by which he pi'oscribed and abolished tlie 
 ancient Egyptian religion. Among the inscriptions in the temples, 
 recording the visits of travellers there, are those of priests of that 
 religion who performed here their rites in honor of Isis and O.siris 
 sixty years after the promulgation of the decree. There is a tablet 
 in the propylaeum of the Temple of the East, on which is carefully 
 engraved : 
 
 " L'an 6 de la republique, le 13 Messidor, une armee Fran^aise, 
 comraandec par Buor aparte, est dcscendue a Alexandrie ; I'arniee 
 ayant mis vingt jours apres, les Mamelukes en fuite aux pyramides, 
 Dessaix, commandant la premiere division les a poursuivi au-dela 
 des cataractes, ou il est arrive le 13 Yentose, de Tan 7." ' 
 
 How curious that almost the only monument which the French 
 Republic of '1)3 has left is this one, which records a great foreij>u 
 achievement of a hero who defended it only to subvert it ! How 
 prone unsophisticated nature is to exaggerate the marvellous! 
 Mariette Bey quotes a French traveller of the age of Louis XIV. 
 as saying that the thunders of the cataract of the Nile deafen the 
 
 ' Ta.vNSLATiON.— " On the 13th Messidor of the year of the republic " (July 3,1700), 
 " the French army, coinmaiuled by Bi)napiirte, landed at Alexandria. At the I'yr- 
 amids, twenty days later, the Mamelukes liavinj^ been put to fliglit by the nriuy, De.-s.iix 
 commanding the first division, pursued tliem above the cataract, where he arrived on tlie 
 13th Ventose of the year 1 " (March 5, 1800). 
 
FERPwY ON THE NILE. 
 
 609 
 
 and lofty bases of tlie 
 itire area. The base, 
 )oring of the boats of 
 Q before entering the 
 like all the ruins we 
 mcient Egyptians only 
 after Alexander, who 
 thout destroying them 
 delicacy and grace of 
 ieen in other Egyptian 
 y modern historical in- 
 ;entury, as every one 
 ;ern Empire, issued an 
 bed and abolished the 
 'iptions in the tcmplos, 
 hose of priests of tlwt 
 onor of Isis and Osiris 
 ivce. There is a tablet 
 t, on which is carefully 
 
 une armee Frangaise, 
 Alexandrie ; I'arniee 
 m fiiite aux pyramitles, 
 es a poursuivi au-dela 
 
 de ran 7." ' 
 nent which the French 
 records a great foreiji,ii 
 
 to subvert it! How 
 
 rate the marvellous ! 
 
 le age of Louis XIV. 
 )f the Nile deafen the 
 
 inhabitants for miles around. Mr. Seward remembers to have seen 
 on an old English map a picture of Xiiigara Falls, with a note under 
 it saying, "These falls are a quarter of a mile high!" Having 
 made these profound critical reflections, we descend the Grand 
 Quay and go on board a dahaheah, to make our way through the 
 foaming rapids and the roaring eddies and whirlpools to our Croco- 
 dile, which awaits us at Assouan, and at this moment an incident 
 occurs which is worth recording, if for no other reason than that of 
 its instructions in economy. "We see a native man and woman 
 emerge from the magnificent classic colonnade at the water's edge 
 of the island, plunge into the rushing river, and make their way 
 directly across to the Libyan coast. They have taken oflf all their 
 clothing and heaped it in solid parcels on their heads, while they 
 walk securely through the wild and dangerous rapids. This is, in- 
 deed, the customary form of ferriage on the Nile. It has often 
 anmsed us to see a river-boat, which has come up from Cairo 
 freighted with natives, stop, and, without boat or plank, deliver its 
 passengers in the middle of tlie river. The passenger puts his lug- 
 gage on his head, and leaps into the river, saying, philosophically 
 and cheerfully : " If it is my kismet " (fate), " I shall perish ; if not, 
 I shall reach the bank." 
 
 If we have turned our backs reluctantly upon the Mountains of 
 the Moon and the sources of the Xile, we must console ourselves 
 with the reflection that we have seen regions which neither Alex- 
 ander, nor Julius Ceesar, nor Genghis Khan, nor Tamerlane, nor 
 apostolic prophet, nor Columbus, nor Napoleon, nor Magellan, nor 
 Yasco de Gama, ever explored. 
 
 f the republic " (July .^ nn 
 t Aloxandria. At tlie V}t- 
 to flis'it by the nriny, Dtvs.iix 
 vact, where ho arrived on the 
 
CHAPTER Vlir. 
 
 '■*■* 
 
 " ! 
 
 
 
 
 t 
 
 I 
 
 * 
 
 
 i 
 
 X^Sr DAYS IN EGYPT. 
 
 The Vico-Consul's Harem. — Kcnnch and its Pottery. — The Sugar of Egypt. — Memphis.— 
 Its Ruins. — The Downfall of Idolatcrij. — Again at Cairo. — Conversation with a 
 Pacha. — Alexandria. — Aspect of the City. — Interview with the Khedive. — Sir Ileniy 
 Bulwcr. — Pompey's Pillar. — The Khedive's Yacht. — Concluding Reflections on Lgypt. 
 
 Thebes, May 24:th. — Wo fastened here at Luxor, this afternoon, 
 Sultan Paclif , the governor, and the United States vice-consul, were 
 on the wharf to welcome us hack. ^Yhile Mr. Seward entertained 
 these former dignified personages on board, the vice-consul con- 
 ducted the ladies to his little harem. His domestic establishment, 
 coarse and plain, is in striking contrast with this loyal representa- 
 tive's pretentious official residence, at which we were so suniptu- 
 ouslj dined on our way up the river. On reaching the door, the 
 ladies ascended, by a very narrow, steep, and not particularly clean 
 flight of stairs, to the house-top ; where, it being after sunset, they 
 sat during their visit, without protection. The furniti're of the 
 room consisted of a bed and two chairs. An African handmaid 
 was in attendance. Presently the wife of the consul, a slender. 
 middle-aged woman, came up the stairs, veiled, and neatly dresr^cd 
 in deep black, with heavy silver bracelets and bangles. She re- 
 ceived our salutation timidly, remained standing, and ])i'e.-entcd 
 her three pretty, olive-skinned children — one boy and two girl.-. 
 The ladies turned to the consul and said, " But yon told us you had 
 but one child?" Tie answered, "I have but one bov; we do not 
 
BENI-IIASSAN. 
 
 611 
 
 count girls." The mother entirely agreed with him, and expressed 
 her mortification, in Arabic, that two of the children should be so 
 perverse as to belong to the inferior sex! This woman has no 
 responsibility except the care of her children. The visit, being one 
 of ceremony, ended with coffee, chibouques, and sherbets, brought 
 by the handmaiden from the consul's I ouse. We retire to rest by 
 the light of the Southern Cross, the last time that soon, if perhaps 
 ever, it shall spread its light for us, though we have many seas yet 
 to navigate, and many lands yet to explore, before we reach our 
 home. 
 
 Sugar of Egypt.— Menii>liis.— 
 
 Cairo. — Conversation witli a 
 
 willi tlie Ivhcdive. — Sir Homy 
 
 )ncludin<; Reflcctiona on Lgypt, 
 
 Luxor, this afternoon. 
 States vice-consul, were 
 ill-. Seward entertained 
 the vice-consul con- 
 lomcstic establishment, 
 1 this loyal reprcsonta- 
 'h we were so suiiiptn- 
 
 caching the door, the 
 I not particularly clean 
 )eing after sunset, they 
 
 The furnitin-e of the 
 An African handmaid 
 
 the consul, a slender. 
 led, and neatly drosf^cd 
 and bangles. She re- 
 anding, and presented 
 no boy and two girls. 
 ]iit you told us you had 
 it one boy; we d" not 
 
 Be?ii- Hassan, May 28^^. — We steamed down the river from 
 Thebes on the morning of the 25th, having for the last sound there 
 the sharp report of the vice-consurs musket firing a national salute ; 
 find, for the last sight, the flags of the Unite^^ States, Brazil, and 
 Eiiypt, waving from a staff high above the columns, walls, and 
 obelisks of Karnak and Luxor. We stopped for coal at Kenneh, a 
 lively, commercial Arab town, and the seat of the manufacture of 
 the porous earthen pottery used throughout Egypt for cooling and 
 clarifying the Nile-water. Roads across the Arabian Desert ex- 
 tend this trade by caravans to Persia, and the banks of the Euphra- 
 tes and Tigris. European governments have consulates hero, 
 whicdi are filled by wealthy Arab merchants. The German consul, 
 of the same class, entertained us in a residence so stately that it 
 would not ill become a foreigner, resident in Cairo. We coaled 
 as^ain at Siout, went ashore at Rodah, and visited the immense su- 
 srar refinery there, the private property of the Khedive. Sugar is 
 the principal staple of Upper Egypt, while Lower Egypt produces 
 none. The viceroy is the principal producer and manufacturer 
 for the whole country. The cane is brouglit to Rodah in boats 
 from various plantations, which contain in the aggregate ninety 
 thousand acres. The machinerv is of British nianufacture, and 
 (?qual to the best in Cuba. When we compare the extensive culti- 
 vation on the banks, and the activity of trade on the river, as we 
 approach Cairo, with the sterility and desolation of the banks at 
 the cataract, this return-voyage, down the Nile, seems to us like a 
 
612 
 
 EGYPT AXD PALESTINE. 
 
 
 s^ 
 
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 return tVom a sojourn in the " valley of the shadow of death " to 
 the land of the living. The deserts on either side, with their 
 mountain-crests, recede gradually from the banks ; and the valU-v, 
 largely covered with date-orchards and sugar-cane, wears a green- 
 ness which shows that we have loft the tropics behind us to come 
 again into ^'.e temperate zone. Small as the range of manutacturc 
 and local trade is, the inhabitants arc intelligent and active, in 
 striking contrast to the people of the Upper Nile. Sultan Pacha, 
 with h'b steamer, has kindly acted as convoy to the Crocodile, and, 
 whenever we have stopped, we have shared the honors which a 
 simple and subjugated people show him. At every landing, boats 
 discharge their freights of delicious watermelons, as presents or for 
 taxes in kind, on his deck, and the finest of them soon find their 
 way to ours. Nothing could be more acceptable in this dry, hot 
 climate. 
 
 Memphis^ Tuesday^ May ZOth. — Our last day on the Nile ! Tlic 
 downward voyage has been made without other accident than an 
 occasional running high and dry on sand-banks, from which \ve 
 were hauled off sometimes by our noisy Arab crew, sometimes by 
 our steady convoy. The Pyramids of Dashur, far distant from the 
 bank, though in full view from the river, then those of Sakkara 
 next seen, beckoned to us to stop and take a survey of ancient 
 Memphis. Our approach to Cairo was made known to us by the 
 grim towering points of Ghizeh. 
 
 A citizen of Chicago would think it labor lost in visiting this 
 renowned ancient capital. It is so soon done for. As we advance 
 inward from the valley of the Nile toward the desert, we pass some 
 irregular black knolls, which are covered with clumps of date- 
 palms. On the surface of these hillocks we saw, here and there, 
 not bowlders, but blocks of hewn granite, no one stone lying on 
 another. Occasionally the knoll, having been partially cut away 
 for agricultural purposes, reveals a heap of broken bricks. In a 
 sunken ditch, now dry, but which is filled by the Nile when at 
 flood, lies i>rostrate, with face downward, a monolith statue of Ea- 
 meses II., usually identified as the great Sesostris. Its whole 
 
MEMPHIS. 
 
 618 
 
 shadow of death " to 
 Ither side, with their 
 )auks ; and the valley, 
 ,r-cane, wears a green- 
 ics behind us to eonie 
 3 range of manutacturc 
 jUigent and active, in 
 ■ Nile. Sultan Pacha, 
 
 to the Crocodile, and, 
 d the honors which a 
 Lt every landing, boats 
 lions, as presents or for 
 f them soon find their 
 iptable in this dry, hot 
 
 t day on the Nile ! Tlic 
 other accident than an 
 •banks, from which \ve 
 ■ab crew, sometimes by 
 ur, far distant from the 
 hen those of Sakkara 
 :e a survey of ancient 
 ide known to us by the 
 
 )or lost in visiting this 
 ne for. As we advance 
 10 desert, we pass some 
 with clumps of datc- 
 c saw, here and there, 
 no one stone lying on 
 ,een partially cut away 
 if broken bricks. In a 
 d by the Nile when at 
 monolith statue of Ea- 
 t Sesostris. Its whole 
 
 height was sixty feet. The stone is a flinty liiucstone. It was 
 nine in the morning when we arrived off the accei)ted site. The 
 bank is a plain six or seven miles wide, crossed by canals of irri"^- 
 tion in all directions, and large portions uf it are subject to annual 
 iiumdation. The current being very strong, we found neither 
 wharf nor anchorage, nor even a place for mooring. Wc, there- 
 fore, turned about and passed up the river to a convenient cove used 
 tor a ferry. Crossing the plain, we left behind us the river windiii"" 
 between fertile plains ; below us Beni-IIassan ; opposite, on the 
 right bank, a Coptic convent, and an abandoned line of military 
 signal-stations ; the view bounded on the north by Old Cairo and 
 the citadel, here only just visible. Two or three miles before us, 
 on the plain, a modern Egyptian town, with the Arabic name of 
 Myt-Rahyneh, nestling among dry sand-hills ; in the distance the 
 Pyramids of Sakkara, seeming to cluster against the horizon with 
 those of Ghizeh. The etiiclency of the Khedive's government was 
 shown by the promptness with which, in compliance with a dis- 
 patch which Betts Bey sent from Beni-IIassan, twenty or thirty 
 men appeared, with chairs and donkeys, to meet us. We rested at 
 Myt-Ilahyneh long enough to reorganize our train, ti.nd partake of 
 sherbet and coffee under some acacias, which protect the only well 
 in the village, and then resumed our way across the level plain, 
 over cultivated fields, and crossing the canals on bridges for a dis- 
 tance of four miles, when we reached the squalid handet of Sak- 
 kara. 
 
 It was near sunset when we embarked, leaving behind us for- 
 ever the city of Memphis — Memphis, founded by Menes, the home 
 of the authors of civilization ; the builders of the Pyramids, the 
 kings who knew, and the kings who knew not Joseph ! Memphis, 
 whose sedgy bank was the cradle of Moses, whose council-chambers 
 heard the warnings of the prophet of Israel, and the denunciations 
 of the divine plagues ! Memphis, from whose walls issued tlie 
 chariots and horsemen which were lost in the pursuit of the Israel- 
 ites through the waters of the Red Sea ! As we reflect upon the 
 monuments M-e have seen to-day of the senseless worship of bulls, 
 birds, crocodiles, and hippopotami, the mockery alike of religion 
 
 40 
 
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 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 
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 and of knowledge, we w(»ndor less tlum ever that the first and 
 chief instruction which Moses the deliverer conveyed to his ])ooi)U' 
 was, " Thou shalt have no other gods before me." The time had 
 come when the world needed that command. Perhaps the expe- 
 rience of the proneness of mankind to disregard it may be the ex- 
 planation of the severity of the discipline by which it has ])lease(.l 
 the great Lawgiver of the Universe to enforce that command lie 
 has cut off the nations that have refused it : 
 
 " Thus saith the Lord God ; I will destroy the idols, and I will 
 cause their images to cease out of Noph " (Memphis) ; " and there 
 shall be no more a prince of the land of Egypt : and I will put a 
 fear in the land of Egypt." 
 
 Cairo, 3fa>/ Slsf. — "We came to the wharf by moonlight, at ten 
 o'clock last night. Carriages were waiting to convey us through 
 the streets of Cairo, of which every mosque was illuminated, and 
 merry crowds of natives were assembled at the fountains and 
 shrines. It was the birthday of Mohammed — the day on which 
 the pilgrims returned from Mecca are publicly received by the 
 Khedive, and honored with religious ceremonies at the mosques. 
 We passed at the base of the citadel the public square, where, a 
 few hours before, the sheik of the Great Mosque, mounted on a 
 heavy charger, had ridden over a long pavement of prostrate dco- 
 tees, without inflicting, as they allege, a fracture, a bruise, or even 
 a pain. At eleven o'clock we were again at our residence in the 
 Kasr-Nudzha after an excursion of nineteen days, during which no 
 danger was experienced, no disappointment incurred, and no want, 
 either of comfort or luxury, unsupplied. 
 
 Mr. Seward's first desire this morning was an audience of the 
 Khedive, in which he might make his acknowledgments to hi? 
 princely host for this rich experience. But they have politics in 
 Egypt as elsewhere. The Khedive went yesterday morning to 
 Alexandria. Speculation is rife as to the reason of his journey, 
 and as to the probable length of his absence — some saying that he 
 is summoned to Constantinople, where he may be poisoned, and 
 the most hopeful agreeing that he will not return to Cairo for 
 
A FREE CONVERSATION. 
 
 015 
 
 n* tliat the first and 
 mveyetl to liis people 
 me." The time had 
 , Perhaps the expo- 
 ird it may be the ox- 
 which it has pleased 
 3 that command lie 
 
 y the idols, and I will 
 Lemphis) ; " and there 
 ypt : and I will put a 
 
 f by moonlight, at ten 
 to convey us through 
 was illuminated, and 
 at the fountains and 
 cd— the day on wliicb 
 blicly received by the 
 ionics at the mosques, 
 public square, whore, a 
 Mosque, mounted on a 
 nent of prostrate dc-o- 
 cture, a bruise, or even 
 t our residence in the 
 days, during which no 
 incurred, and no want, 
 
 ras an audience of the 
 cknowledgments to his 
 it they have politics in 
 yesterday morning to 
 reason of his journey, 
 3— some saying that ho 
 may be poisoned, m\ 
 lot return to Cairo for 
 
 several ^^oeks. He was attended l)y his iiareni and the Princess 
 Valide, who, gossip says, always makes his cotlbe for him on his 
 journeys, and gives it to him with her own hands, to guard against 
 possible attempts at poisoning, lie has kindly left instructions for 
 receiving Mr. Seward at Alexandria. 
 
 Jime 4th.— \ very free conversation between a distinguished 
 pacha and Mr. Seward at dinner to-dav disclosed a diseoura<>-in<' i>o- 
 litical situation in Egypt. The pacdia thinks that foreign states 
 ought to discuss directly with the Egyptian (tovernment all ques- 
 tions of mutual interest, iiisteail of treating with the Turkish (iov- 
 ment at Constantinople. Mr. Seward said : " The Egy})tian (iov- 
 cr'Muent must go deeper into the matter of international law than 
 this. At present, the relations of Egypt, as well as of the whole 
 Turkish Empire, to the Christian nations are provisional, somewhat 
 of the nature of those established by an armistice on the battle- 
 ticld. The Mohannnedan states have neglected or rei';jscd to ac- 
 cept the laws of nations as matured by the ('hristian states. The 
 European states consent to remain at peace with the ^lohunmedan 
 states, but only on the condition that the latter snail exd'cise no 
 jurisdiction or authority over the persons or property of subjects 
 of Christian countries. Every foreigner, therefore, residing in 
 Egvpt, whether English, Erench, German, Greek, or American, in- 
 vokes in his own behalf the intervention of his own government, 
 and submits himself only to its judgments when complaint is 
 made against him by the Egyptian Government. Eoreigners pay no 
 taxes, and render no military services ; and yet trade, art, and manu- 
 foctnres, such as you have, seem almost exclusively in tlieir hands. 
 This condition is unsatisfactory to the Khedive and to the states- 
 men of Egypt. I learn this, not only from your own conversation, 
 but from the fact that the Khedive has organized a legislature, and 
 has instituted negotiations with the Western powers for the estab- 
 lishment of a mixed foreign and native judiciary, to have chari^e 
 of questions in which foreigners are concerned. But 'I do not 
 learn that the Ottoman Porte, to which Egypt is a tributary, sym- 
 pathizes at all with the Khedive in his very reasonable aspirations. 
 
 h\ 
 
616 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
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 The reason probably is, that the Ottoman Porte finds its best se- 
 curity against foreign dangers in its compliance with the will of the 
 dominant European powers. On their part, these powers cannot 
 maintain a policy of protection toward Turkey excei)t by insistiiii^ 
 upon the existing stipulations. It does not become me to speculate 
 here on questions which affect the relations of Egypt to the Turk- 
 ish Empire. I am here the guest of both, but I may be allowed to 
 say that what I think Egyi)t most needs is the opening of the coun- 
 try to Europeans and Christians for cultivation, and a compulsory 
 system of educaticn of the whole mass of children of both sexes, 
 native and foreign, by which, in no very long time, Egypt will raiso 
 a class who will bo capable of carrying on trade, banking, manufac 
 tories, internal improvements, and military instruction, as well n.s 
 of exercising the other occupations which arc now chiefly filled In- 
 foreigners. The systerii of education thus to be established ought 
 to be built up as fast and as far as possible on the principles of the 
 Western nations. Until this is done, I sec little hope for tlio 
 emancipation of Egypt from its double thraldom ; first, to the Otto- 
 man Porte; and, second, through the dependency of the Ottoman 
 Porte, to the Christian nations of Europe. This prospect will 
 seem to you distant, but rivalries between the Eur()])ean states arc 
 inevitable, and I think that you will find some ojie or more of tliciii 
 always willing to favor measures which tend to the advancement 
 of civilization in Egypt, and her admission into the family of inde- 
 pendent nations." 
 
 Al<\m/idria, June tyth. — The Khedive's consideration contin- 
 ues. Leaving tlic pleasant Kasr-Xudzha, at eight o'clock in the 
 morning, we crossed the Delta in a special train, attended, as on 
 our entrance into Cairo, by I'etts liey and the United States I'on- 
 sul-general. What need is there to say here that just below Iloli- 
 opolis, while yet in the traditional land of (loshen, we crossed the 
 IJamietta branch of the Nile; that the Delta spreads out here to the 
 width of a hundred miles, so that, for the first time since our arrival 
 in Egypt, we lose sight both of the Arabian Desert and of the des- 
 ert of Libya ; that we crossed, 'jwer down, ^he Ilosetta branch of 
 
RITK or ALKXANDRIA. 
 
 017 
 
 i-te finds its best sc- 
 e with tlie will of tlic 
 these powers cannot 
 y excei)t by insist! nj,' 
 come me to speculate 
 ,f Egypt to the Turk- 
 1 1 may be allowed to 
 ! opening of the eoun- 
 )n, and a compulriury 
 lildren of both sexes, 
 time, Egypt will raise 
 dc, banking, manufai- 
 instruction, as well a.-; 
 I now chietly filled by 
 
 be established ought 
 
 1 the principles of the 
 30 little hope for tlio 
 lorn ; first, to the Otto- 
 dcncy of the Ottoman 
 . This prospect will 
 lie European states are 
 ic one or more of tlicsu 
 d to the advancem'jiit 
 nto the family of iude- 
 
 consideration contiii- 
 
 it eight o'clock in the 
 
 train, attended, as on 
 
 the United State.- con- 
 
 c that just below Ilcli- 
 
 ioshen, wo crossed the 
 
 spreads out here to the 
 
 i time since our arrival 
 
 Desert and of the des- 
 
 the llosetta branch of 
 
 the Ts^ile, and that, as wc approache 1 the Mediterranean, we had a 
 view of the Mahmoud Canal, which carries the inland trade of 
 Alexandria; and that later we traversed the shore of the now shal- 
 low Lake Man-is, thousands of years ago the bed of the Nile? 
 This vast and fertile plain, while it exhibits the usu.il assiduous 
 industry of the fellahs, at the same time shows some approximation 
 toward European customs nnd manners. 
 
 The site of Alexandria is naturally dry, stern, and sterile, as 
 forbidding as the deserts which form on cither side of the Ui)per 
 Nile. But with the growth of commerce, in the course of two 
 thousand years, this forbidding African coast has assumed a cheer- 
 ful aspect. Irrigation has produced here rich gardens, groves, and 
 orchards. All the eminences, within the range of vision, are sur- 
 mounted by windmills, and the approaches to the city in every 
 direction are adorned with villas, in which Italian taste is pleas- 
 antly combined with the Oriental. On our right, towers the tall, 
 dark shaft of Pompcy's pillar. 
 
 The Khedive's military staff received Mr. Seward at the station, 
 and attended him to the J/otel (TAnfjleterre, placed at his disposal 
 by direction of the Government. On our way, Mr. Seward re- 
 marked the great improvements which have taken place since he 
 was here in IS.^O, and pointed out the catacondjs of the ancient 
 Egyptians in the high embankment, which have been exposed hy 
 the cutting of streets directly through and over them. Our hotel 
 fronts the great public square, which on either side is lined with 
 palatial residences in the European style. It seems as if we had 
 already entered Europe, and left Egypt behind us. A throng of 
 t'ashionably-drcssed Europeans are promenading, and French and 
 English equipages are frequent in the streets. The Italian opera 
 demands our immediate attendance on the opposite square, and 
 every thing shows us that at last, after ten months' travel among 
 the semi-barbarous nations of the East, wc have at last reached a 
 gay though exotic European city. 
 
 Jvn/J C)fh. — A political day. Mr. Seward, this morning, had a 
 parting audience of the Khedive in his palace, on the island of Plia- 
 
G18 
 
 EGYPT ANT) PALESTINE. 
 
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 ros, facing the sea. Ilis highness evidently regards Alexandria as 
 a provincial residence, and gratifies the people with a greater di?- 
 l)lay of state pomp and ceremony than he customarily indulges in 
 at Cairo. The palace-gates were guarded, and its courts graced 
 with battalions of fine troops. The Khedive received Mr. Seward 
 with warm congratulations on his return, and made many kind 
 inquiries about his voyage up the Nile, which, at so late a season, 
 he had regarded with grave a])prehensions. lie hoped that, while 
 impressed by the wonderful antiquities of the country, Mr. Seward 
 would carry away from it a conviction that it is advancing in the 
 path of "Western civilization as fast as under the circumstances 
 could be expected. He desired to know whether any thing remained 
 that he could do to render Mr. Seward's stav at Alexandria aifroc- 
 able. Mr. Seward told him there was nothing, but that he would 
 ask one parting favor, in addition to all the kindnesses he had re- 
 ceived. The Khedive promised to grant it before it was asked. 
 Mr. Seward said, " Betts Bey has been indefatigable in the care and 
 attention which he has bestowed upon us, but liis service to your 
 highness is so diligent and constant that he never finds an oppor- 
 tunity for recreation. I learn from him tliat he has never seen Pal- 
 estine, whither I am going. lie is a Christian, as I am, and a 
 pilgrimage to the Holy Sepulchre, once in his life, would make him 
 no more incapable of ofticial service in a Mohammedan court. Ho 
 has not suggested a desire to accompany me, nor have I a]>pri.-c(l 
 him of my intention to nuike this re(piest, but I shall esteem it ii 
 last and great favor, if you will direct that he may accompany mo 
 to Jerusalem." 
 
 " (xranted at once," said the Khedive. " Betts Boy deserves it, 
 and ])ilgrimagc to holy places cannot but nuiko U8 nil better nioii. 
 whatever may be our religiouHi belief." 
 
 Engaging Mr, Seward io advise him of his health and safety in 
 the further progress of his journey, and e.\j)ressing an earnest de- 
 sire to visit him sometime in the United States, the Khedive slinok 
 hands with Mr. Seward, and tlie latter took his leave. Arms wiio 
 jirescntcd as he retired and joined his j)arty at the i)alace-gatcs. 
 Thence Mr. Seward proceeued to ])ay a visit to Lord Dalling, late 
 
rOMPEY'S PILLAR. 
 
 019 
 
 irds Alexandria as 
 A-ith a greater di<- 
 )inarily indulges in 
 , its courts graced 
 L'cived Mr. Seward 
 
 made many kind 
 at so late a season, 
 e hoped tliat, while 
 ountry, Mr. Seward 
 is advancing in the 
 r the circumstances 
 • any thing remained 
 It Alexandria agroo- 
 r, hut that he would 
 Lindncsscs he had re- 
 betbre it was asked, 
 crab! 3 in the care and 
 t his service to your 
 icver finds an opjior- 
 c luis never seen Pal- 
 tian, as I am, and a 
 lite, would make him 
 tuiimedan court. He 
 
 nor have I ai)pri>i!!l 
 [it I shall esteem it a 
 may accompany uio 
 
 Rctts r>cy deserve:^ it, 
 im us all better men, 
 
 Is health and safety in 
 Lssintr an earnest ilc- 
 Is, the Ivlu'idivc! slmnk 
 L leave. Arms wi ro 
 ly at the ])alace-gate^. 
 "to Lord Dalling, hitc 
 
 Sir Henry Bulwer, who is now on a visit to Egypt, and, like Mr. 
 Seward, a guest of the Khedive. He has his residence in a villa 
 on the canal, outside of the city-gates. This interview was a very 
 pleasant one. Sir Henry Bulwer was the British minister at 
 "Washington during the administration of President Taylor, when 
 Mr. Seward was first entering upon his senatorial term. A cordial 
 friendship then grew up between them, in consequence of their 
 mutual eftbrts to secure the so-called " Clayton-Bulwer Treaty," 
 which, with a view to transcontinental communication across the 
 Isthmus, stipulated the independence of the Central- American re- 
 publics. The two statesmen compared notes very fully on the 
 attitudes of their respective Governments toward each other dur- 
 
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 POMI'KVV IMI.I.Alt. 
 
 
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 EGYPT ANT) PALESTINE. 
 
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 ing the late civil war in the United States, and the late Britisli 
 ambassador expressed his satisfaction at the result of the conflict, 
 as Mr. Seward did his hope I'or the firm establishment of the cor- 
 dial friendship between the two nations. Lord Dalliiig seems so 
 confirmed an invalid,, that Mr. Seward asked, after leaving his 
 lordship, which of the two seemed most shattered with age and 
 infirmity. 
 
 Pompoj's pillar, though at a distance it seems perfect, is gradu- 
 ally succumbing to the ravages of time. Why does not the Britisli 
 Government remove the fallen "Cleopatra's Needle," which Me 
 hcmet Ali presented to it ? London would be none the worse for 
 such an embellishment. If they shrink from the task of removing 
 it, why not restore the great ruler's gift to his successor ? We arc 
 sure tiiat Ismail Pacha would make no delay in raising it on its 
 ancient pedestal in Alexandria, or even restoring it to its earlier 
 place at Ileliopolis. Egyptian obelisks, thirty-three hundred year? 
 old, are certainly too valuable, in modern times, to be buried in 
 the sand. They tell an amusing tale concerning this obelisk here. 
 An ambitious Alexandrian bought the land on which it lies, to 
 build upon. He cannot build without removing t'le obelisk. lie 
 has throe difficulties about removing it : first^ it oclongs to the 
 British Government ; second, it would cost more than the laud is 
 worth to remove it ; third, he has no right to place it anywhere 
 else. They say he walks i:p to look at it every Sunday, and study 
 the problem, which still remaius misolved. 
 
 Ju77£ 7th. — The American military officers of the Khedive's scr- 
 vice, in the magnificent gold-laced uniform of the Egyptian army, 
 called on Mr. Seward en masse, and it was a great satisfaction to 
 him to find one place, in going round the world, where the Ameri- 
 can agent, political or religious, expresses his entire content with 
 the government of the country he resides in. 
 
 We have looked up and down the Mahmoud Canal, as well as 
 through the harbor of Alexandria, without finding the famous barnje 
 of Cleopatra. The most ancient vessel we have found is the 
 Ariadne, Captain Marryat's vessel, on which he wrote " Jacob 
 
rOIlT SAID. 
 
 621 
 
 Faithful," and which is lying in the harbor, dismantled, and used 
 as a store-ship. Another historical naval relic in Alexandria Bay 
 is the ship Resolution, in whieh Captain Cook made his last voya£rc. 
 This hulk, of four hundred tons, now black and brown, is used as a 
 coalinp^-shij) by the Peninsular and Oriental steamers. 
 
 We have just returned iVom a visit to the Khedive's yacht— a 
 soa-priiace, moving with steam-engines and side-wheels ; its bur- 
 den, three thousand tons; its speed, seventeen miles an hour; its 
 armament, eight guns; its naval crew, four hundred and fiftv men : 
 its staircases, of silver; its floors, covered with Persian and Turkish 
 carpets ; its windows and beds, draped with satin brocade ; its im- 
 mense saloons, hung with mirrors, pictures, and chandeliers, the 
 finest that Paris could produce, and fnrnislied with modern, lavish, 
 dazzling '.'•lendor. AVhat would not Plutarch have said to this? 
 With this ship Cleopatra could not only have brought ]\[ark Antony 
 siifoly away from Actium, but she could have won the battle for 
 him, which would have been better, and could have entertained 
 him more sumptuously even than in her fomous barge. 
 
 Alexandria, founded by the Great Conqueror, whoso name it 
 bears, after his death supplanting Memphis nnder the sway of the 
 i'tolcmics, after its conquest by Julius Cirsar emulating Rome 
 itself, and later becoming the school of Christianity in the East, 
 then eclipsed by Constantinople, and still later sidjjugated by the 
 Mussulman caliphs, broken down by their successors and restored 
 liy Mehemet Ali, still remains a great commercial city. It is the 
 entrepot of European commerce for Egypt and India. We are now 
 to sec it undergo a still further trial. Will it be superseded by 
 Port Said, at the mouth of the Suez Canal ? 
 
 lond Canal, as well as 
 ding the famous barge 
 e have foinid is the 
 ch he wrote "Jacob 
 
 PoH Said, June dth. — Leaving Alexandria vesterdav at four 
 o'clock, we resumed our voyage, always in sight of the Egyptian 
 roast. The bright light of Pharos reminded us that it was here 
 that the humane institution of this form of beacon for navigators 
 had its origin, in a structure on the same spot, deemed so remark- 
 able for its majesty and beauty by the ancients, as to be accepted 
 bv them as one of the "seven wonders of the world." 
 
C22 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
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 A customary expression of regret tlui<" the Alexandrian Library 
 was lost to the world, led Mr. Seward to say that, perhaps, it is iiut 
 a total loss after all. Nine-tenths of all the books whi(;h are written 
 in tlie world are, more or less, transc'rii)ts of others that have been 
 written before. A threat library is generally only a store-house of 
 material for new books. It would be strange, indeed, if, one way 
 or another, any of the ideas which were recorded in the million 
 volumes of the Alexandrian Library are not now extant in otlier 
 books. So a library lost is like the light of Pharos which was lost 
 — but not so utterly lost that it cannot be replaced. 
 
 In the course of the night we passed Rosetta, after Alexandria, 
 the chief {)ort of entry of the Delta. A few hours later, roundiiiir 
 easily and quietly into the smooth but capacious artiticial luirbur of 
 Port Said, we threw over an anchor, an experience which seciiied 
 new to us, after our three weeks of tying to stakes on the banks of 
 the Nile. 
 
 Tlie superintendent ot the Suez Canal, desirous that Mr, Seward 
 should examine the work at this terminus, as he had at the other, 
 kindly ])ut a small steamer at our service, and, cmb.irking on this 
 vessel with Mr. Page, United States consul, we made an excursion 
 often miles through this part of the canal, which flows in a deep' 
 channel, between high embankments faced with artificial stone, 
 and is built through the middle of the shallow salt-lake Meuzaleh. 
 It seemed to us that human patience and energy have never been 
 60 severely tasked as in raising these firm and solid ondjaid<iiicnt^ 
 upon the oozy bed which had been saturated and soaked with the 
 slimy flood of the Nile, from a period, perhaps, earlier than the 
 beginning of the human race. 
 
 Port Said seems quite American. The site of the little tcwn. 
 60 recently recovered from the sea, is plready divided and sub. 
 divided into streets and S(]uares, and tlie universal to|»ic of con- 
 versation is the eligibility of and price of city-lots. Tiierc is a; 
 yet little indication of internal trade, but the repairing of shi|)iiinL', 
 transshipment ot i)assengcrs, and coaling of vessels, aftord proHtabk 
 occupation to a poindation of ten thousand, among whom are found 
 some Germans, .some Italians, but chiefly immigrants from the is 
 
E. 
 
 e Alexandrian Library 
 tluit, perhaps, it is nut 
 )ooks wliicli are written 
 ' others that liave been 
 ly only a store-honsc of 
 ige, indeed, it", one way 
 ecorded in the million 
 3t now extant in other 
 [■ Pharos which was lust 
 eplaeed. 
 
 osetta, after Alexandria, 
 iw honrs later, rounding 
 cious artificial hin-bui- of 
 xperiencc which scciued 
 stakes on the banks of 
 
 :lesirou8 that Mr. Seward 
 , as he had at the other, 
 , and, enib.irkino; on thij 
 d, we made an excursion 
 id, which flows in a deep' 
 'cd with artiflcial stone. 
 allow salt-lake Menzaleh. 
 energy have never been 
 n and solid endjaidanent^ 
 ated and soaked with tin 
 )erhap.s, earlier than the 
 
 c site of the little town. 
 Iready divided and suli. 
 universal toi»ic of con- 
 of citydots. There i» a. 
 he repairin*! of shipiiini'. 
 ['vessels, aiVord protitiihl' 
 1, among whom are founJ 
 inunigrants from the u 
 
 ORIGIN OF TilE EGYPTIANS. 
 
 G2r. 
 
 lands of the Levant. We dined with the consul, and walked through 
 the sandy streets, under a burning sun. 
 
 Whence came the Egyptian people? llow was it that they 
 erected and nuiintaincd so great and flourishing a state, construct- 
 ing vaster and more enduring monuments than any other portion 
 of the human race, and why after these nmrvellous achievements 
 (lid they entirely cease to have a national existence i These are 
 a;i great mysteries to the dwellers in Egypt now as they are to us. 
 We have already mentioned that an Arab told us that the Tyramids 
 and the Sphinx were the creation of genii in a single night. A 
 Copt, attending us at Dendera, asked us, as he surveyed the ruins, 
 '• Who were the people who raised these wonderful temples and 
 excavated these tombs? Whence did they come, and whither 
 have they gone \ " We are not hiclined to accept the idea that 
 the old Egyptians were like the Copts. The Copts of the pres- 
 ent day are men of dark skin, while all the statuary and paint- 
 ings which so much excite our interest invariably represent and 
 describe the Egyptians as " red men." Certaiidy they were neither 
 negroes, nor Hindoos, nor Europeans— neither blacks nor whites, 
 like the blacks and whites of to-day. Doubtless, in tlie patri;;rclial 
 period, some tribes from the west of Asia, Arabia, jierhaps Meso- 
 potamia and Syria, made their way into the valley of the jS'ile, and 
 instituted society there some centuries before the visit of Joseph 
 and his brethren. Isolated there, and yet exposed to invasion from 
 Libya and Ethiopia, as well as from Arabia, these tribes would 
 naturally consolidate themselves into a nation. Thus consolidated, 
 jiosscssing a soil of unequalled fertility, they perfected and main- 
 tained Egypt as the great state of its time, for a period of several 
 thousand years. During this period they first conquered and then 
 minified tlleir Idood with the African tribes of Etliioi)iii, now Nubia 
 and Libya. Froni this mixture probably descended the Copts, an 
 inferior race during the glory of Egypt, but who nevertheless 
 adhered longer to its religion and arts than nny other part of the 
 population. 
 
 It is nuich easier to see how the Egyptian nation perished than 
 low it originated. They perfected their work ; tliey produced a 
 
021 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 t -'"It ■ 
 .... I 
 
 
 .1 
 
 rcligio:i which in all ai^es seems to have been the first need of man- 
 kind, a state which was the second, science the third, and had com- 
 merce, literature, and arts, adequate to their own wants, if tlicv 
 had remained isolated. But, by the time this was done, Assyria, 
 Persia, Syria, including Phoenicia, and especially Greece, had 
 pushed inquiry further, and had reached much higher resulrs. 
 They established religions, states, commerce, and arts, which, nl- 
 though in modern times they have all been found imperfect, were 
 nevertheless more solid and eifectlve than those of the Egyptians. 
 The Egyptian system came into conflict successively with those new 
 and better ones. The work of destruction which the Assyrians 
 and Persians began was not stayed by their Greek and Roman suc- 
 cessors, and the Mohammedan invaders in the seventh and eiglitli 
 centuries, with their policy of conquest and propagandism by the 
 sword, completed the ruin of Egypt by a work of unsparing deso- 
 lation. 
 
 If there is any one fact in natural science that seems to iis more 
 mysterious than another, it is that on some mountain-top, or in some 
 remote valley far away from and far above the everlasting ocean, 
 we pick up a slate-stone in our path, and, breaking it, we finJ 
 within the distinct fossil imprint of a shell-fish of a species un- 
 known, or perhaps extinct. It is just so with ancient Egypt; it 
 had a civilization wliich seems to have had no prototype, and can 
 have no reproduction. 
 
 
 ^- M 
 
 
 ••i 
 
CHAPTER rx. 
 
 JERUSALEM. 
 
 intine Coasting-Steamer.— Th '^rein Fields of Sharon. — Jaffa.— Ramlcb.—I.yddn. 
 •Rural Topulation. — First V ,■; f/ Jcrusaleni. — Mr. Seward's Reception.— Tlii> 
 dtan's Fiimati.— Cliureh of the I- v Scpulelirc— Reli},'ioii3 Intolerance —Mount 
 ilvary.— The Via Dolorosa.- The Loi.quc of Omar.— The Moscine ElAksa. 
 
 Sultan 
 Calva 
 
 Jafa^ June 8th. — The e' .vcnth month of our voya<^c ot'circuni- 
 navi^^^ition opens upo: us in Palestine. A Levantine eoastin<:;- 
 steaincr presents us witii another peculiar i)liase of travel. Excei)t 
 our party, there are neither Americans, nor Eufj^lLsh, nor Europeans. 
 All are natives of the towns of Syria, Palestine, the Greek islands, 
 and Asia Minor. They are, in fact, a reproduction ot the hetero- 
 geneous multitude whom Peter addressed at Jerusalem on the day 
 of Pentecost, as far as the classifications of modern geography will 
 allow : 
 
 " Parthians, and Medes, and Elamites, and the dwellers in Meso- 
 potamia, and in Judea, and Cappadocia, in Pontus, and Asia, Phry- 
 gia, and Pamphylia, in Egypt, and in the parts of Libya about Cy- 
 rcno, and strangers of Rome, Jews and proselytes, Cretes and Ara- 
 bians." 
 
 After being dazzled almost to blindness by the rellection of a 
 tropical simlight from the glaring sand of the desert, it is gratefully 
 refreshing to look out upon the green fields of Sharon. Mr. Sew- 
 ard, who sojourned here a week under quarantine in 1859, indicated 
 from the deck the convent made forever historical by Bonaparte's 
 
c 
 1"'"% 
 
 l«>ri 
 
 m 
 
 
 kl; ' i^ 
 
 .» 
 
 C3. 
 
.lAFFA AND KAMLI'II. 
 
 C,2T 
 
 rM-:-m:k 
 
 UWll'l 
 
 ■^^ 
 
 ■i'^■Ji 
 
 m. 
 
 'h V r 
 
 W.i 
 
 VH' 
 
 '^iLm 
 
 »1S 
 
 ■tf;. 
 
 
 il/«- 
 
 |!!;| f. 
 
 
 t^'ii'ii 
 
 iilleiretl ])ois(»nin^ of his sick and disabK-d s()ldie;-s to prevent their 
 t'allini; into tlio liands of tlio Turks. He itointiMl out also the house 
 and irrounds whieli are shown to travt'Uers as tlio house of Sinu)n 
 the tanner, and :i rock into which has been inserted a hir<ro riii"-. 
 assorted to have been used for two very dill'erent purposes: the 
 (.lie for c'liainini^ Ainh-oineda, and the other for hohlinir Noah's 
 Ark in its pkice \uitil he was ready to end)ark on his extraordinary 
 iTiiise. 
 
 Jatla, thouujli not after tlie European taste, is, nevertheless, a 
 hiuidsotne town, covcrini:; a rocky cliff, and overhanuiiii^' the sea. 
 We cast anchor haU' a mile from shore, for there is no harbor, and 
 our eyes were immediately _i>:reeted with a si<i;lit of the "stars and 
 stripes " Hoatinfj; over a beautiful o:recn suburb, two miles outside 
 the walls of Jati'a, and our ears with the intelliirence that it was the 
 " American (-(dony." A boat came ]tromptly olf the shore and put 
 on deck ^[r. Uenjamin Fiidadstein, an attaclh' of the consulate at 
 Jerusalem, Avho delivered t(» IMr. Seward a conn'i-atulatory letter 
 from Mr. Beardsley, the consul there. Mr. Fiidcelstein was accom- 
 panied l)y his own cavass, and also by an aide of the Turkish ijov- 
 crnor of Jafl'a. Although the breakers Avcre running high, we 
 were transferred without danger or inconvenience on board a na- 
 tive surf-boat, and with much skill buoyantly carried over a rolling 
 sea near the shelving beach of the American c(dony. Here the 
 boatmen carried us severally on their shoulders, and our feet were 
 safely planted on the Syrian shore. Detachments of Turkish cav- 
 alry and infantry received IMr. Seward, as a guest of the Turkish 
 Government, with martial nmsic and military honors. Forming 
 an escort, they conducted us, through orange-orchards hedged with 
 cactus, to the centre of the so-called American settlement. 
 
 Ramlch^ June W>. — Our progress, in ascending to Jerusalem, 
 was in manner very like to that in which we ascended from Peking 
 to the Great Wall of China. It Avas conducted by Ik'tts I'ey, of the 
 oivil service of the Khedive of Egy])t, assisted by Mr. Finkelstein, 
 and their authority was supported by the cavass of the United 
 States consulate at Jerusalem, dressed in the most elaborate and 
 
'«i| 
 
 G28 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINK. 
 
 -Ml 
 
 I 
 
 * 
 
 
 
 
 cxtravaj^ant Turkish uniform, armed with a silver staff, like tliat of 
 a drum-major, three cimeters, and i)l^?tol8 innumerable, of various 
 sizes, in belt and saddle-bow. Eaeh beast was attended by u driver 
 and a leader. The governor, with a large mounted escort, which 
 he called a " guard of honor," attended us through the streets, out 
 of the gates, and through the orange groves of the suburbs to the 
 wells (»f Yasur, on the open plain of Sharon. At this place, tJio 
 governor and his troops took their leave, a smaller mounted guard 
 taking its jdacc, and we proceeded to Ramleh. 
 
 Toward the end of the ride, our guides jiointed out on our loft 
 Lydda, which, although the Greeks tried to christen it Diospolls, 
 has retained its name and identity through all revolutionary chaii<;L's, 
 from the time when " Peter came down also to the saints which 
 dwelt in Lydda, fjrasnmch as Lydda was nigh to Joppa," and 
 "found a certain man named yEneas, which had kejjt his bed ci;,dit 
 years, and was sick of the palsy. And Peter said unto him, yKueas, 
 Jesus Christ nniketh thee whole: arise and make thy bed. And 
 he arose innnediatcly." 
 
 Arriving at Ramleh at eight o'clock, or just at dark, Mr. Seward 
 was received by the governor of that town, with a guard of honor, 
 and, having designated a Latin convent as the lodging he preferred, 
 was graciously introduced by the governor to the Fraucisean 
 superior of the house. "We were very weary. One of the brothers 
 with much alacrity showed us to clean, comfortable rooms, and 
 spread a generous supper. The superior, a handsome, educated 
 Spaniard, manifestly uninformed of the political occurrences of tlio 
 day, conversed with us at table, and expressed a hope that the 
 luxuries which were prepared for us were satisfactory, but declined 
 to ])articipate, because they are forbidden to him. Such monasteries 
 as this are found dispersed throughout the Holy Land. They were 
 founded at an early date by Christian charities in Europe, to 
 afford shelter and comfort to the pilgrims of the A^est. Deiiii; 
 endowed with lands, and conducted with great frugality, the com- 
 munities are now self-sustaining. There being no good pulHc 
 inns in the country, these monasteries entertain travellers in a 
 simple and comfortable manner, and receive, when the traveller 
 
 m. 
 
JKIU'SALEil. 
 
 ('j;» 
 
 Ivcr stiilF, like that of 
 minieniblo, of various 
 s attended by a drivLi- 
 nounted escort, wliuli 
 irougli the streets, out 
 of the suburbs to llie 
 u. At this place, the 
 smaller luounted guard 
 
 pointed out on o\u' lot't 
 » christen it Diosp.lis, 
 I revolutionary chan«;cs, 
 so to the saints whicii 
 3 nigh to Joppa," and 
 V had hcpt his bed eight 
 r said unto him, yKucas, 
 id make thy bed. And 
 
 just at dark, Mr. Soward 
 , with a guard of honor, 
 he lodging he preferred, 
 ■nor to the rranciscau 
 k-y. One of the brutheis 
 comfortable roonit*, and 
 , a handsome, educated 
 llitical occurrences of the 
 Lrcssed a hope that the 
 Isatisfactovy, but declined 
 him. Such monasteries 
 Holy Land. Thoy^vere 
 charities in Europe, to 
 Ins of the N'est. r>eiiig 
 Igrcat frugality, the coin- 
 being no good puhlic 
 ■ntertai.n travellers in a 
 Live, when the travclkr 
 
 leaves, such gratuity as he pleases to give, although they make no 
 demand. Travellers generally pay very cheerfully to the superior, 
 tor the use of the convent, a sum not less than simihir entertain- 
 ment would cost at a hotel. 
 
 Jenisalcm, June h^t/i. — We rose with the dawn this inorn::i'-, 
 and, having: received coifee and a blessing from our kind entertai i- 
 crs at the monastery, we walked, with the aid of guides, throiigh 
 the few quiet streets of Ranileh. It seems that it is an achieve- 
 ment of more than five thousand years for the hunmn race to 
 attain a state of society in whicdi those who cultivate the land can 
 (hv(dl in safety and comfort, in rural localities. It is really only in 
 Eiighind and in the United States that this stage of society lias 
 heen reached, and much less perfectly in England than in the 
 United States. In wliatever country we have l)een, we have seen 
 Siditude in the rural districts, the farm-house unknown, tlie proprie- 
 tor residing for security in some neighboring luuulet, viUage, or 
 city, and the laborers clustering around him there. Mr. Seward 
 says he found the case the same in ^lexico, with six millions of In- 
 dians in that country, cultivating the richest soil and enjoying tlie 
 most benign skies in the world, but dwelling in mean, shal)by 
 towns. And, even among the Indian tribes of the Northwest, 
 families who live l)y the chase and by the lisheries shrink from 
 iiviu"" alone. It is strikingly so in Palestine. It seems to have 
 known no peace and no rest, at Iciist since the time of Sidomon. 
 
 No view is more unique than that of Jerusalem as you ap})roach 
 it from the west. You look not so much at it as into it and over 
 it. Though situated on a mountain-top, it is sm-ronnded by loftier 
 mountains: on your right, the mountains of Judea, on win -h you 
 ?tand ; on your let't, the Atount of Olives; and, far beyond, the 
 mountain-desert, at the foot of which the Jordan makes its hurried 
 way to the Dead Sea. Our first surprise was that so famous a city 
 should be so small. But this diminutiveness is itself a charm. You 
 see iu its entire circuit the lofty wall, with its beautiful parapets. 
 Withhi the wall, clustering, but not crowded, you see, without 
 shade or variation, the white roofs, balustrades lome.^, -^'-"^l n^i:i:uets 
 41 
 
iuV) 
 
 ECYPT AND TALESTINE. 
 
 Ifc, V it! 
 
 i 
 
 
 IK. 
 • ' 
 
 I 
 
 f 
 
 me 
 
 
 If 
 
 I* 
 
 n 
 
 Hi- 1 
 
 ^ ^1 
 
 J 
 
 of loftv palaces, and majestic; clmrclies and mosques. Thout^h not 
 08j)ec'ially conversant with the modern history and geography of 
 the city, we liad no difficulty in distinguishing the recently-rencweil 
 and mngniticent dome which protects the Holy Sepulchre. \Vf 
 also recognized, by its situation and its gt)rgoous though tadcd 
 dome, the Mos(pie of Omar, which now crowns Mount Moriali, 
 and stands upon the situ of the ancient Temple of Solomon. If 
 one knew no moriiof the Gospel than what he recalls of childhood's 
 leasons, he could not mistake either the Plain of Eethleheu) or tlio 
 Mount of Olives. Nor would ho mistake the significance of that 
 solitary clump of olive and cypress trees, which, at the foot of the 
 Mount of Olives, overhangs a long, low ravine which divides A[ouiit 
 Zion from the Mount of Olives. That ravine is the "N'ailoy of 
 Jehoshaphat, and that cloister of solemn shade is Gethsemanc. I'or- 
 getting for the moment the devastations of the Turks, the Cru- 
 saders, the Saracens, the liomans, the Greeks, the Persians, the 
 Babylonians, and the Egy[)tians, you accept this little Turkish town 
 as the city which was built and adt>rned by Solomon, and as a j)crfcct 
 embodiment of the devotional idea of our faith, and do not wonder 
 that, completed so long ago, it has been left to stand unchanged, 
 unsliakon, and alone, for the admiration aiul reverence of aget^. 
 Induhnnu: in tins reverie, we were roused, as we des-ended the 
 nov,' gentle and easy road toward the city, by the piei'cing strains 
 of the shrill, exciting, Turkish martial music, which annoinicod 
 that military honors of no (tommon significance awaited ^Ir, Sew- 
 ard's coming. On the last of the m(»untaiu-plains was extended a 
 marquee, over which floated the blood-red banner of the Crescent. 
 The avenue leading to it was _j',uarded by a bittalion of iiil'antrv 
 and a cavalry squadron. I\Ir. Seward alighted her(^, and, thedrooji- 
 iiig animals being dismissed, he was condiu-ted u[) the avenue under 
 a saluto of the troops and the stirring music of the band to the 
 marquee, where the Pacha of Jei'usaleni, attended by the iiuuii 
 eipal and othc; puhlic officers, received him as a distinguished 
 stranger and a guest of the Turkish Empire. Here again was nn 
 entertainment just as profuse as if wc had not partal<en of ridresh- 
 monts on die other side of the mountain an hour before. Never- 
 
NE. 
 
 mosques. Thoui]jh not 
 story nnd geography of 
 ng the recently-renewed 
 3 Holy Sepulchre. We 
 gorgeous though tadcd 
 crowns Mount Moriali, 
 'eniple of Solomon. It" 
 he recalls of chlUlhood's 
 ii'm of Bethlehem or tlio 
 
 the significance of that 
 rt'hich, at the foot of the 
 ine which divides ^fouiit 
 •avino is the Valley of 
 de isGethseniane. I'\»r- 
 
 of the Turks, the ( ru- 
 rceks, the Persians, the 
 t this little Turkish town 
 Solomon, and nsa perfect 
 I'ailh, and do not wonder 
 eft to stand unchanged, 
 
 and reverence of ages, 
 'd, as we des;'ended the 
 V, by the piei'cing strains 
 nusic, which annoiniced 
 ^ic-ance awaited Mr. Sew- 
 it;-plains was extended n 
 
 banner of the Crescoiif. 
 V a battalion (d' infantry 
 ited here, and, the droop- 
 L'tod up the avenue under 
 lusic of the band to the 
 
 attended by the nuuii- 
 
 hini as a distinguished 
 ire. Here again was lui 
 
 not parta1<en of r(>frcsli- 
 an hour before. Never- 
 
032 
 
 EGYI'T AND PALKSTINE. 
 
 »* •« 
 
 f 
 
 Of •*• 
 
 -J "% 
 
 Y 
 
 r'1 
 
 1 
 
 ^:3 
 
 1 
 
 € ''1 
 
 
 •* « 
 
 'i 
 
 » t 
 
 
 -'4 
 
 i 
 
 < > 
 
 
 "- m 
 
 > 
 
 r> -.oi 
 
 1 
 
 * ' ■■ 
 
 
 
 tlieless. Mocha coffco, as prepared by Arab bands, is always nc 
 eeptablo. And now occurred the first secession which our party 
 has undergone in its long and interesting journey. The LkHos 
 could endure no more of receptions or of fatigue. Taking T tfs 
 Bey for their guide, they set out on foot to make their way int) tl.H' 
 city in advance of the procession, which they saw was inevilablc 
 
 Jerusalem has seen many striking pageants, but certainly, In 
 modern times, none go singular as this reco])ti<)n of a i)rivate Auicri- 
 can citizen with the military pomp and imjierial parade accunlod 
 before only to conquerors and kings. As we descended the hill 
 we passed before the Roman church, monastery, school, ami loii- 
 S'.date, and then, from the noble bridge which spans the ravine, 
 looked up at the fine colonnade of the Jewit^h Asylum lately liiijlt 
 by the Rothschilds, and at last stood on the sacred Mountain di 
 Zion. The Jafi'a Gate is not the widest in the world, nor is ('liri>. 
 tian Street the broadest and best-paved avenue, although it Ic.id,. 
 directly over Mount Zion. Happily, in view of this ceremony, tlio 
 Clovernment had caused the street to be cleared of its custoiiiaiv 
 groups of camels, horses, and donkeys. In a word, the Jerusuloni 
 which was so beautiful seen in the softening light of the setting' 
 sun from the summit of the mount^'iis of Jndea, shrunk to a viii::;ir 
 Turkish town the moment we en' 'ed it. "With the best H])ee(l the 
 ladies could make, the strange ai l wild i>rocession overtook tliciii. 
 obliging them to take shelter in such door-ways or booths as 
 opened to them. Tlie people of Jerusaleu), more accustomed ic 
 seeing sad pilgrim bands and caravans from the desert than oiTuial 
 ]>ageants, wero in the narrow street on this occasion, a lu'tcr(i;.a- 
 neous mass — Turks ami (christians. Scribes and Pharisees, iiu'ii. 
 women, and children, monks and Sisters of (Hiarity, publican.^ iiul 
 sinners. 
 
 Somehow we Rhall never be able to recall how we made our wav 
 through this motley crowd to a gate by the way-side, on which a 
 mo(h>st sign-board advertised " Mediterranean IFcttel." Our |»;irfv. 
 rcunitetl, was conduct'xl up two Hiuhts of narrow, steep stairs tc 
 the house-top, where we sat down, having in full view, on our kt'. 
 the dome of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre ; on our riglit tln' 
 
TiniKlSIl riUMAN. 
 
 osn 
 
 linndfl, is always ;>f- 
 
 sion wbieli our parly 
 
 journey. The iadios 
 
 ,ti^i,me. TaUiu*; I'l-tts 
 
 :il;e their way iut)tl!r 
 
 saw was inevitahlc 
 
 sauts, but certainly, \\\ 
 
 iuuofaFivateAnion- 
 
 perial parade acc-.^raed 
 
 we deBCcndcd the hill 
 
 vgtcry, school, and run- 
 
 hich ?p^"^ ^^^" Yi\^-\w, 
 
 i,li Asylum lately Imilt 
 
 .10 sacred Mountain of 
 
 the world, nor is Chri:^- 
 
 •enuo, althouo-h it lead- 
 
 ;w of this ceremony, the 
 
 cleared of its custouuu-v 
 
 n a word, the Jerusalem 
 
 i„<r lljrht of the setting 
 
 ndca,shrunktoavul-:ir 
 
 With the best spcoatlii 
 
 -.vession overtook tliein. 
 
 door-ways or booths ;>,^ 
 
 ,11), more accustonu<1 W 
 
 u the desert than uJuial 
 
 his occasion, a hctcro<:c- 
 
 K-s and Pharisees, nicii. 
 
 i' Charity, publicans iml 
 
 111 how we made our w;n- 
 Ithc wav-side, on wl/u'li ;i 
 
 u-an Hotel." (>nri.:'.vtv. 
 
 If narrow, stcop staus to 
 in full view, on our Ictt. 
 
 I.k'hre; on our vi-M tlie 
 
 Mosque of Omar ; and, at our feet, the crystal ])0()1 of llezekiah, 
 which is su})plied from the "AVells of Solomon." Here the pacha 
 and his suite, the consul and cavass, and " all others in authority,*' 
 after renewed assurances of kimhiess and hospitality, took their 
 leave, and wc repaired to adjoininj^ chambers, whicli, thouj^h neither 
 spacious nor pretentious, were spotlessly clean, and in every way 
 cdiufortable. 
 
 To explain this brilliant reception by the authorities of Jcrusa- 
 join. we nuiy us well insert here the Jinmin issued by the Turkish 
 (iovcrnment, announcing Mr. Seward as the national ;?uest, ami 
 instructing all ))ublic ofKcers to extend to him their courtesy and 
 nroloction. The document is bLautifuUy engrossed in Turkish 
 
 cliaracters, on a great sheet of parchment, surmounted by the Sul- 
 tiui's foo(/M or nionogram. Mv. Ihown, our c/i(t/'(ji' <riilJ'<(hrH at 
 'onst:'.ntinoplc, made a translation of it for us as I'ollows : 
 
 >• His Im])erial Majesty, Sultan Abd-id-Aziz Klum, son t)l Sul- 
 tan Mahm(»ud Kh!in,,may his victories !)« perju'tiiated ! 
 
 "T(t mv noble vizier — my glorious councillor, who administers 
 the atVairs of the ])eople coniided to his care, with <j,reat jiistire and 
 (>,|„ity— who strengthens and consididates the edMice of the empire 
 and i-uhlic weal, with much zeal and ability— who is one of tho 
 t'aitlit'id nntiisters of my Government, and who by liis convictions 
 lia!» merited the favor of the MoBt High, ])03sessor of all things: 
 tlic kUee or governor-general ot" my province of Soria (Syria) the 
 
m*. 
 
 *m 
 
 
 ■19 
 
 
 c 
 
CHURCH OF mi-: holy sEruLciiuL. 
 
 <'.i.i 
 
 
 
 L 
 
 
 M\m 
 
 possessor of my noble decoration oi' the •iiaji'';c]i x t'lO tir- . ;iss, 
 IlocluJ Ptu-]i:i, may bis glory bo itici cased! be il know/. ; 
 
 '• Tiiat tbc boann' of the present royal and sovcr '-d do iiuimt 
 is the Ilonor.ible William 11. Seward, formerly tho .let nui.iii.r 
 of tbc Government of tlie Repnblie of tbe United : itc-.s <.r Xorili 
 America, wbo, witli his companions, is visitin<^, for t c j",r|M»ses o|* 
 travel, my province of Sorii — ami that it is my sovereign will that 
 you, who are tbc bahv of the same, consider bim as my Imiiorcd 
 and distinguished guest. 
 
 "That yon treat bim with every demonstration of honor atid 
 rospect, and see that, wberev<i- be may be pleased to go, hv be 
 shown bos{)itality. It is my royal pleasure tbat be be everywiiore 
 known as tbe guest of my (lovernmcut, and treateil accoribugly. 
 Let all measures be taken for his comfort and pn^te'tiou, and y.^v- 
 uiit nothing to occm* contrary to the present commands. 
 
 "This know, and hasten to carry my sovereign will into e<('- 
 cntion. 
 
 " Written, the ir>th day of tbe Moon of Rojcb the Unifpie. :>i' 
 the year of the IledjcnT, 1-JST" (2'itb September, 1870). 
 
 Sundat/, June Wih. — Worshi;) at the Churcli of il j Holy Sep- 
 ulchre — the only Sunday that we arc to enjoy in .(erusaleni — cowhi 
 not be neglected. But the hours of worship !a tbc E^t are early. 
 .Vt six o'clock, with such strength as our nigh ic>-t iiad given i.. . 
 \vc repaired there by rough, steep, and win ,.- street;-. A sinnll, 
 (•pen, paved scpiare lies in front of the cIuut: . intn v.hicb v. o (]<•• 
 v'onded by a iliglit of worn stone ..teps. Tbe w \i was thronged 
 with a varied crowd from many eotmtries. riierc were Syrians, 
 (Irecks, Armenians, Cojits, Abyssinians, and Turk-!, as v.-ell as Eng- 
 lish, French, (jrermans, Russians, Americans, and Italians — men of 
 nil nationalities, indeed, cNCcpt Jews. ("}iri>lians from Piethleliem 
 i!i(l Hebron were busy in selling small, cheap relics and amulet* 
 ""'^•ng tbe mass, many of whom seemed very ]> )or, and no Hin.ill 
 ,juition mendicants. How unreasoning is religious intolerance! 
 The Christian nations of Europe have succeeded in exacting 'wSx 
 obtaining from tbe Turkish Government :it Constantinople ihe full 
 
o.w 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 exercise of religious worship of every form in the Church of the 
 Holy Sepuk'hre. All luitions are invited to it, save only the Jews, 
 whoMi Turks iind Christians unite in excluding,' from even its vesti- 
 bule. Mr. Seward could not believe this until he found that one of 
 the bearers of his chair had to be replaced because he was a Jew. 
 
 The (freek, Latin, Armenian, and Coptic sects celebrate i)ul)li ■ 
 worship in the church at ditlerent hours of the day. It will not 
 seem strange that we passed the great mass, to go directly to tlic 
 lloly Sepulchre. There is no doubt that the "new tond>" of ,Iu- 
 seph of Arimathea, in which the Saviour reposed for three diivs 
 after his cruciiixion, is somewhere in tins mountain. It is unrea- 
 
 ■•■s5 
 
 1 > 
 
 »■. 
 
 
 i 
 
 11()MK OF TIIK cmnif'll or THK IIOI.Y RniMTI CltnE. 
 
 tionable to i4Uppose, in view of the circumstances which :ittciHK)il 
 the early Church, that it can now bo identified. The pious Cltri.s- 
 tinns of the fourth century, however, thought thoy found it licrc, 
 
 t: 
 
■'CHAPEL OF THE ANCIEL." 
 
 637 
 
 1 the Chnrclx of the 
 , save only the Jew?, 
 f ti-oiu even its vesti- 
 he found that one of 
 a\»sc he was a Jew. 
 iccts celebrate publi • 
 the day. It will lu.t 
 to go directly to the 
 J "new tomb" of Jt»- 
 ?posed for three <liiys 
 jimtain. U is unrcu- 
 
 •uiciinB. 
 
 istanccs which iittciulo.l 
 ificil. The pious ("hfiv 
 ,r\,t thoy found it liorc, 
 
 and Christians of every age till this have accepted it. Why should 
 wc not be content to do so, siiue there is no reason to sui)iH)se 
 tliat any other place more authentic can now be fouiul 'i We, 
 therefore, shut out from our minds all distrust. The Holy Sepul- 
 chre is under the centre of the great dome, ur, to speak more ac- 
 curately, the great dome of the church has been erected directly 
 over the sepulchre indicated to the Empress Helena. The Holy 
 Sepulchre is a white-marble sarcophagus. It is not, of course, ^^.o- 
 toiuled or supposed that the holy grave was found in this shape, 
 but, with the decency which religious worship always rerpiires, the 
 marble ease was built over the rock-hewn tond). A small orna- 
 mental structure of marble, with pillars and pilasters, and sur- 
 mounted by a crown-shaped dome and cross, stands over the sep- 
 ulchre, and constitutes a kind of chapel or temple. This diminutive 
 structure is divided into two compartments. The outer chamber is 
 called the " Chapel of the Angel/' it being the pleasure of the devo- 
 tees to believe that on the spot enclosed within it, and at the head 
 of the grave, the angel stood when he said to Mary Magdalene and 
 the other Mary, " Fear not ye : for I know that ye seek Jesus, 
 \vlii(!h was crucified. He is not here : for he is risen, as he said. 
 Couie, see the place where the Lord lay." 
 
 In the centre of this tiny chapel, raised on a pedestal, is a stone, 
 which is claimed to bo a fragment of the identical one upon which 
 the angel sat. The chapel is capable of receiving only one or two 
 visitors at any one time. At the eastern side is a small door, made 
 low, so as to re(piire the visitor to stoo]> as he enters. Thisharmo- 
 iiizi's with St. John's account : " And as she wept, she stooped 
 tlown, and loohed into the sepulchre." Unhappily, however, for 
 tlui iiidulgenco of self-delusion, the churches have suspended, from 
 the low ceiling in this narrow clunnbcr, fort '-three lam])s of gold 
 and silver, which are kept always burning by day and by night. 
 Their dazzling glare, together with the strong perfume of ispices 
 iuul fratdvincense and attar of roses, is so incongruous with rhe 
 Uiiturnl condition of the sepulchre, that they bewilrkr instead of 
 :iiding the pilgrim in his pious desire to realize th' " place where 
 thn Lord l;iv." As we reached the door, two poor Rjissiai- women 
 
038 
 
 EGYPT AND PALKSTLVE. 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 r* - 
 
 ■mm 
 
 
 * 
 
 I 
 
 i, 
 i j 
 
 
 ■ i; 
 
 ft J 
 
 came out, and this nuidc way lor us. We sto()i)ed and cntei'.'d. 
 The marble sUib, which covers the ll<»ly Sepulchre, was bedewed 
 with tears — probably it is always so, although it is coiitiuuidly jmri- 
 fied with rose-water. A placid-t'aced monk stood near to perform 
 this grateful ollice, and to oiler llowers and other sacred mementos 
 to the pilgrims. Notwithstanding the many provocations to doubt, 
 it mav well be believed that no one ever stands over that broken 
 and worn marble slab unmoved. AVe gave place, in our turn, to 
 devout and meek Armenians. 
 
 We could now study what reuuiins of the Cburcli of tlie TToly 
 Sepidchre with free and inquiring minds. We entered the cL «ir 
 of the church when the Greek bishop and priests were concluding a 
 solemn mass. We need hardly say ihat services dillering so en- 
 tirely from our form of worship seemed cold, formal, and theatrical. 
 When the services ended, the bishop and his numerous assistant 
 priests M'ilhdrew in solenm procession, leaving the congregation to 
 retire at pleasure. We need not pcrhaj.s raise a question here on 
 this subject. Mysterious dogmas and ecclesiastical forms were 
 effective, perhaps they were necessary, for the conversion of the 
 pagan nations. And they arc not useless in sui>])orting and 
 keeping alive docile and patient faith. But their day has culmi 
 nated ; henceforth, more spiritual teaciiing will be employed, and 
 we shall be called on to try whether the requisite standard of faitli 
 can be maintained under a system of free, unregulated, and unbri- 
 dled religious inquiry for religious truth. It suits us better as trav- 
 ellers to study past ideas, as they are embodied in architecture and 
 in art. This Greek choir is spacious, lofty, and elaborately adorned 
 with painting, statuary, and gilding. Our guides now proposed \« 
 show us, not only the Mount of ('alvary, but the very place of the 
 crucifixion, which is also under the dome of the Holy Seimlclirc. 
 To say sooth, our imaginations required a more ample space for the 
 different jiarts of the nu)st stupendous and awful drama ever 
 enacted. It is not strange, therefore, that our faith in tradition!- 
 gi'ew weaker as we climbed the stee]) flight of eighteen stone steps 
 to reach the summit of Calvarv, under this dome, and at less than 
 a stone's throw from the Holy Sepulchre. 
 
CALVAfiY. 
 
 <;;;!> 
 
 Calvary, if tliis is that mountain of terror and sadness, is a liglit 
 and cheerful, well-paved chapel, twenty feet s(piare, raised l^'ftecn 
 foot above the churcli floor. Here an attendini,' i)rie>t lifts a cor 
 ner of the marble pavement, and discloses three sockets, drilled in 
 the rock, at a distance of six feet from each other; and all who can 
 may believe what he says, that the central one received the foot of 
 the Saviour's cross, and the other two the crosses of the malefac- 
 tors who were crucified with him. Over this slab is erected an 
 altar ijarnishcd with a profusion of jewelled ornaments and tapestry. 
 All skepticism is expected to be put to llii,^ht when, underneath the 
 ;iltar, the marble veneering is removed and a naked rock is shown, 
 with a large, irregular fissure in its fa'^-e, which, wo are told, was 
 elfectcd at that fearful moment when '' the veil of the temple was 
 rent in twain from the top to the bottom; and the earth did 'juake, 
 :ind the rocks rent; and the graves were o[)ened; and many boilies 
 of the saints which slept arose." 
 
 The trial of faith steadily increases as we continue the appointed 
 cxi>loration. It has a locality, not merely for each gi-and part of 
 tlic mighty transaction which it commemorates, but even for every 
 incident connected with it, though too minute for memm-y or his- 
 tory. A taltlet at the foot of the Chapel of Calvary records that 
 here "the mother < ^ Jesus sto3d," a witness of liis aii'onv. An- 
 other advices you of the spot where the body lay when taken down 
 from the cross. Another, where it was washed and swathed for 
 interment. Another, a place where tlie three Marys gathered for 
 iinitual condolence. After completing this survey, we descended 
 to the dark cavern underneath the pavement of the church, and at 
 the base of Calvary, in which St. Helena, in the fifth century, dis- 
 covered the three crosses, still in a state of preservation. 
 
 We returned to our hotel through several streets, which, from 
 tiieir continuity, have acquired the name of the '• Via Dolorosa," 
 lieiug the path the Saviour trod on the wa\ from the palace of 
 Pilate to the place of crucirixion. Tradition has been no less busy 
 here. At the foot of this staircase, the Saviour, sinlung* under the 
 weight of his cross, impressed hie Divine foce upon the handkerchief 
 of St. Veronica, now seen in St. Peter's at Rome. Here in this bal- 
 
040 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTIXK 
 
 ^ ■ "I 
 
 ♦, ■ ■''■ 
 • » 
 
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 cony, built over the street, the rcinorse-stnick governor exhibited 
 Jesus to the niaddened mob, with the meinonible words '" Eece 
 Homo," and this lofty structure, certainly not unworthy to be the 
 residence of a Roman proconsul, was the palace of Pontius Pilate, 
 where the Saviour was arraigned and condemned. Here, a repaired 
 breach in the wall indicates the staircase by wdiich the Saviour 
 ascended to the palace on that day. The staircase itself has been 
 removed to Rome for many centuries, and is there exli'l)ited m the 
 (^^liur.'h of 8t. John Lateran, and is familiarly known to ail travel- 
 lers as the Scala Santa. It is impossible to accej ' the authenticity 
 of the "Via Dolorosa." Constantino])!*', Rome, London, Paris, 
 and every other capital of Europe, have undergone I'ewer sackings, 
 sieges, and burnings, than Jerusalem, It would be difficult to 
 i«lontity any street in any city after the changes and accidcntr- 
 which time has wrought in a thousand years. It is a striking com- 
 mentary upon the whole legend, that the house of Dives, as well as 
 the house of Lazarus, is pointed out in the " Way of Sorrow," 
 with the same coniidence as the Judgment-IIall of Pilate. 
 
 Yussef Etfendi, with the brother and secretary of the pacha, 
 attended us to the Mosque of Omar. It is only within the last live 
 years that this mosque, scarcely less sacred in tlic eyes of Mussid- 
 manr, than the Church of the Holy Sepulchure is in oiu's, has biHii 
 opened to (Christian travellers. Even now a careful, though some- 
 what disguised sui'veillanre, is practised over them. The moscjuo 
 stands in an area enclosed with a high, paraj)eted wall, overlooking 
 the valley of Jehoshaphat, and confronting the Mount of Olives. 
 This occupies one-sixth of the land < f the entire city. On the east- 
 ern side of this wall is a gate-way, built of marble, called by the 
 Mussulmans the "(-rolden Gate," which they are ibnd of represent- 
 ing as the "gate of the temple called Peautiful," but its modciii 
 architecture does not support that claim. It is only interesting' 
 from the tradition that it was closed with the Roman conquest, and 
 has never been reopened. The so-called Mosqno of Omar is not 
 single. It consists of two distinct mosques, placed at some distance 
 from each other — the one here named Kubbet-es-Suhkrah, or "tlio 
 Dome of the Rock," commonly called the Mosque of Omar, and 
 
governor cxhibitL'd 
 I'iiblo words '* Eccc 
 m worthy to ho the 
 of Pontius Tilute, 
 . Here, a repaired 
 which the Saviour 
 use itself has been 
 ;rc cxli'hited .11 the 
 :nown to all travel 
 ep* the authenticity 
 ne, London, Piiris, 
 ;ono fewer sackings, 
 jnld be difticult to 
 nges and accidents 
 It is a striking coin- 
 of Dives, as well as 
 " Way of Sorrow," 
 I of Pilate, 
 •etary of the pacha, 
 within the last five 
 he eyes of Mussid- 
 is in ours, has heiii 
 ireful, though sume- 
 theni. The nioscpio 
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 le Mount of Olives. 
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 iqno of Omar is nut 
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 of the Holy Sepulchre, tlie Mosque of Omar is not less unique and 
 peculiar in its consecrated antiquities. Twelve hundred years ago, 
 
 MOSQUR OF OMAR. 
 
 1*« 
 
 
 on the surrender of the Greek Patriarch, the Caliph Omar de- 
 manded to be shown the site of the Jewish Temple. lie was taken 
 to the sacred rock, he knelt and prayed over it, and he bnilt over it 
 a mosque, wliich, with subsequent repairs, is the present " Dome of 
 tlie Rock," or Mosque of Omar. In architectural design and execu- 
 tion it rivals the finest in Cairo and Constantinople. Antodatij'^,' 
 the conquest of the Mussulmans in India, it has an elaborateness of 
 embellishment, perhaps resulting from the influence of Greek and 
 Roman art, which distinguishes this and the other religious struct- 
 ures of modern Asia from the more severe, simple, and effective 
 style of the mosques of Agra and Delhi. One would say, in compar- 
 ing the two styles, that the Mosque of Omar has borrowed from the 
 superstitions of the "West, while those of India indicate a puritanical 
 reformaiion. It is now sadly out of repair. Its magnificent gilded 
 dome is blackened, and its stained glass windows arc broken ; the 
 
MOSQUE-EL-AKSA. 
 
 648 
 
 ;ly from the Clmrcli 
 s not less unique and 
 3 hundred years ngo, 
 
 
 
 
 the Caliph Omar dc- 
 'emplc. lie was taken 
 it, and he built over it 
 the present " Dome of 
 tnral design and execu- 
 ,ntinople. Antedatirii 
 las an elaborateness of 
 influence of Greek and 
 
 other religious struct- 
 , simple, and effective 
 would say, in compar- 
 has borrowed from the 
 a indicate a puritanical 
 
 Its magnificcTit gilded 
 iidowe arc broken ; the 
 
 exquisite Arabic tracery marred, and the elaborately-inscribed texts 
 from the Koran faded. Like the Holy Sepulchre, it is replete in 
 all parts with relics and memorials held sacred by the Mussulman 
 taith. The sheik of the mosque reverently removed for Mr. 
 Seward the crimson-silk canopy which covers an irregular, flat lime- 
 stone rock, sixty feet wide and five feet high, in the centre of the 
 building, and encircled by a high iron railhig. It is said this is the 
 threshing-floor which King David bought of Araunah, the Jebusite. 
 as a site for an altar of burnt-offerings. Modern writers accept it 
 as the altar of burnt-ofierings in the Tenqde of Solomon, irnder- 
 ueath one side of the rock is a vault, which connects with a well 
 nnder the centre of the rock, now covered with a marble slab. 
 This vaulted cavern is by Christian writers believed to have been 
 the cesspool of the altar of burnt-offerings, but the Mohammedans 
 revere it as the place of prayer of Abraham, David, Solomon, and 
 Jesus Christ. On either a'vJ.e of the door of the vault are small 
 idtars, which the sheik calls the shrines of David and Solomon, but 
 they bear carvings nnmii;takably Greek. On aPtotlier side the sheik 
 showed us an indentation which was made by the foot of Mohammed 
 when he sprang from this rock into heaven, and als(j the imprint 
 of the' hand of the angel who threw the rock back to its rcstiug- 
 ]ilace when it was rising from its bed with the foot of the prophet ! 
 Unfortunately, the prophet's footprint here diflcrs in measurement 
 from the footprints which he left, and which we personally saw, in 
 Eaypt and in India. Wo passed over the neglected cor.rt to the 
 Mosquc-el Aksa. It is said to occupy the jda- j and to retain the 
 form of a Christian church or basilica which the Enqicror Justinian 
 1-uilt in the sixth Cv':ntury, in honor of the A^irgin, and which was 
 temporarily restored by the Crusaders. A part of it was a.-signed 
 as an encampment for the military order then recently created by 
 Saint-Louis, which from that circumstance took the name of 
 Knights Templars, and which was so active and powerful through 
 many centuries. 
 
 El-Aksa is indeed a structure built in the customary design of 
 the basilica. Its dimensions are two hundred and seventy-two 
 feet long, by one hundred and eighty-four feet wide. It has seven 
 
644 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 
 
 r- 
 
 « 
 I. 
 
 c, 
 
 
 
 ii 
 
 I 
 
 aisles, supported by forty-five columns, of which thirty-three are 
 marble, and are chiefly of the Corinthian order. But, what inter- 
 ested us more is, a recent excavation under the pavement of this 
 mosque, which proves to be an ancient gate. It has been closed 
 and walled up, while the city has been built around it on the out- 
 side. Tlie massive though broken floor, the solid columns, and 
 the heavy transverse stones which rest upon them, are wrought in 
 a style neither Saracenic nor Greek, biU shaped and ornamented 
 in a manner which we remarked in the Egyptian temples. This 
 newly-discovered gate-way is believed, by the distinguished ex- 
 plorer, Captain Wilson, to have been one of the original entrances 
 to the Temple of Solomon. ISTot only El-Aksa, but the whole area 
 enclosed within the outer walls, now wears the appearance of neglect, 
 dilapidation, and decay. Is this an evidence of the decline of the 
 Mohammedan religion, or only of the increp.sing isolation of Jeru- 
 salem ? We must go farther into the Turkish Empire to decide. 
 Meantime, it is suggestive of much thought that not only the 
 Mayor of Jerusalem, but the obliging sheik of the mosque, plain- 
 tively and earnestly invoked Mr. Seward to use what they thought 
 would be an influence of some weight with the Sultan at Constan- 
 tinople, for the repair of the Mosque of Omar. The various points 
 we have described in the Mosque of Omar are held to fix beyond 
 all dispute the site of the ancient Temple of Solomon. History, 
 tradition, and a pride of the Jews, greater than was ever exhibited 
 by any other nation, made that temple an object of admiration to 
 the whole world. Though its base was Mount Moriah, the hill 
 which bore that name must have been levelled Avhen or before the 
 temple was built. It was easily accessible by a gentle descent from 
 all parts ?f the city, while the high wall built on the outer jircii- 
 pice rendered it impregnable on that side. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 JERUSALEM AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. 
 
 Bethlehem. — The Grave of Rachel.— The City of Jeru3a1em.— The Motint of Olives.— The 
 Tomb of Zachariah. — The Tomb of Absalom. — An American .!( w.— Beihany.— 
 Pilate's Paiace.— The Greek Church in Palestine.— The Jews of Jonisalora.— Their 
 Wailing-Place. — The Jewislr Sabbath.— Attendance at the Synagogue.— Bishop 
 Gobat. — Departure from Jerusalem. — Jaffa and Beirut. 
 
 June \Wi. — " Let us now go even unto Bctlileliem and see 
 this thing." 
 
 Bethlehem is the one place in all the wide world which, by its 
 memories and associations, elevates the soul with emotions un- 
 mixed with sorrow, fear, or terror. The Christian mind, that is 
 not unreasonably exacting, finds in the surroundings of Bethlehem, 
 the " city of David," all the confirmation it needs or expects of the 
 Gospel history — the broad, fertile mountain-plain, easily watered, 
 and which, even now, amid the general desolation of the country, 
 largely retains its verdure, and seems a natural field of the develop- 
 ment of the patriarchal system. " In the way to Ephrath, which is 
 Bethlehem," we rested under the shade of a graceful monument, 
 recently erected by the believing Rothschilds, in full and unques- 
 tioning fdith that it covers the spot where Rachel was buried, and 
 upon which " Jacob set a pillar upon her grave : that is the i)illar 
 of Rachel's grave unto this day." 
 
 Bethlehem is built on the side of a gorge, on whose declivity run 
 zigzag paths which are the streets of the village. The rocky steep 
 has been cut perpendicularly down, and pierced with caves, which, 
 
 42 
 
C4: 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 with the addition, where it is practicable, of a second story con- 
 structed of rude masonry, constitute the dwellings, storehouses, 
 workshops, and inns of the village. If indeed " there went out a 
 decree from Ca;sar Augustus that all the world should be taxed,'' 
 and if indeed it was needful that the poor isazarono, Joseph, must 
 go, out of the city of Nazareth into Judea unto the city of David, 
 to be taxed, with Mary his espoused wife," and if " the days were 
 accomplished that she should be delivered," then the incidents of 
 
 
 m, 
 
 
 ! 
 
 ^■1 
 
 
 BETnLElIEM. 
 
 tlie transaction, as they are related by the Evangelists, were not 
 only natural, but inevitable. Bethlehem, neither more then than 
 now, could have contained an inn in which the-o could have been 
 found "room for them.*' The inn, in all countries and down even 
 to our own time, is historically known by its equal provision for 
 the entertainment of man and beast. The stnble and the manger, 
 throughout all Asiatic countries, no less in Palestine thnn in China, 
 arc adjuncts in the entertainment of an inn, quite equal in import- 
 
BETHLEHEM. 
 
 647 
 
 
 unce to tlie apartments in which tlic traveller of the bettor sort 
 rests, while the plebeian or publican, declining that costly expense, 
 shares the stable and the manger with his faithful and cherished 
 mule, ox, or camel. So it could not have otherwise happened than 
 that, when Mary should have " brought forth her first-born son," 
 she should have " wrapped him in swaddling-clothes, and laid him 
 in a manger ; because there was no room for them in the inn." 
 
 The inhabitants of Bethlehem are native Christians, who sup- 
 port themselves by the fruits which they sell at Jerusalem, and by 
 the manufacture of cheap tokens, ornaments, and amulets, which 
 pilgrims talce home as mementos of the Holy Land. Mr. Seward 
 remarks a visible improvement in the aspect, not only of Bethle- 
 hem, but of the country about Jerusalem, which has been made 
 since his visit of 1859. Something of this is due to the expendi- 
 ture of the Greek Christians of Russia upon a new and beautiful 
 church outside of the city, but more is due to a small colonv of 
 Germans, who have become proprietors and cultivators here. 
 
 Jxtne \^th. — "Walk about Zion, and go round about her: tell 
 the towers thereof. Mark ye Avell her bulwarks, consider her 
 palaces; that ye may tell it to the generation following." 
 
 "We have done so, and. we have found it neither a short nor 
 an easy pro.nenade. The city occupies two ridges of a mountain 
 promontory, with the depression or valley between them. The 
 walls of the modern Turkish city have been so contracted with 
 the decrease of the population, as to exclude large portions of the 
 ancient city. Jerusalem is now divided according to its diflercnt 
 classes of population. The Mohammedans are four thousand, 
 and occupy the northeast quarter, including the whole area of the 
 Mosque of Omar. The Jews are eight thousand, and have the 
 southeast quarter. These two quarters overhang the Valley of 
 Jehoshaphat and the brook Kedron. The Armenians number 
 eighteen hundred, and have the southwest quarter ; and the other 
 Christians, amounting to twenty-two hundred, have the northwest 
 quarter, which overlooks the Valley of Hinnom. We issued from 
 the "city through St. Stephen's gate, which stands some two hundred 
 
048 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 lat 
 
 St*" 
 
 as;-** 
 
 WB-- I'* 
 
 r — «• 
 
 »■.:- ., 
 S ■ 
 
 I 
 
 
 tti. 
 
 <M 
 
 
 feet north of the Ilaram, the area of the Mosque of Omar. Ihis 
 gite is identified, by tradition only, with the martyrdom of St. 
 Stephen. Our sure-footed animals carried us safely down the 
 rocky, precipitous road, i hundred feet to the brook Kedrua. Re- 
 freshing ourselves with the limpid water from its i^ebbly bed, v/e 
 climbed the eastern bank which is the base of the Mount of Olives. 
 This entire base is covered north and south, as tar as the eye can 
 reach, with the tombs and slabs of the Jewish dwellers of the Holy 
 City. It has been always sacred to the Jews, and it is the only 
 place where the past and present of that extraordinary people meet. 
 Here is a graceful monolith structure in the form of a temple, with 
 a pyramidal top, hewn in shape without being detached from the 
 native rock. You may have your choice of tradition in regard to 
 it. The modern dwellers in Jerusalem tell vou that it was built in 
 honor of Zachariah, concerning whom the Saviour accused the 
 Pharisees : " That upon you may come all the righteous blood siied 
 upon the earth, from the blood of righteous Abel unto the blood of 
 Zacharias son of Barachias, whom ye slew between the temple and 
 the altar." Historical evidence of an inscription in the fourth cen- 
 tury assigns this tomb to the prophet Josiah, while in the twelfth 
 century it was depcribed as the tomb of King Iluzziah. To whom- 
 soever it may be.ong, it is held in high veneration by the Jews 
 throughout the wr rid, and prayers offered up in it are believed to 
 be always answeied. The tomb of Aosnlom, a monolith cut out of 
 the rock, in the same manner as the tomb just described, with an 
 upper story of masonry, is attractive as well as curious. W3 tried 
 to enter it, but found the main structure half filled up witli h heap 
 of loose stones. On making complaint of this, we found that we 
 were verv un reasonable, for these detached stones are the evidence 
 of the genuineness of the tomb. 
 
 "Now Absalom in his lifetime had taken and reared upforhi.n- 
 self a pillar, which is in the king's dale : for he said, I have no son 
 to keep my name in remembrance : and he called the pillar after 
 his own name ; and it is called unto this day, Absalom's place." 
 
 The Jews have been in the habit, as they passed through this 
 burying-ground, of taking up a stone, and pelting with it the menu- 
 
AN AMEUICAN JEW. 
 
 649 
 
 mcnt of the rebellious son of David, and so, in the lapse of cen. 
 turies, the heap has aecuiruiiated which obstructed our entrance. 
 Notwithstanding all this, however, there is a growing distrnst of 
 the authenticity, though no one denies the anticpiity, of the monu- 
 ment. 
 
 The Jews throughout the world, not merely as i)ilgrims, but in 
 anticipation of death, come here to be buried, by tiie side of the 
 graves of their ancestors. As we sat on thr deck of our steamer, 
 coming from Alexandria to Jaffi\, we remarked a family whom we 
 supposed to be Germans. It consisted of a plainly-dressed man, 
 with a wife who was ill. Mm two children— one of them an infant 
 in its cradle. The sull'erings of the sick woman, and her ell'ort to 
 maintain a cheerful hope, interested us. The husband, seeing thi?, 
 addressed us in English. Mr. Seward asked if he were an English- 
 
 MOBQUE ON THE MOUNT OF OLIVES. 
 
 man. He answered that he was an American Jew, that he had 
 come from New Orleans, and was going to Jerusalem. We parted 
 with them on the steamer. The day after we reached the Holy 
 
650 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 MB **• 
 
 "I 
 
 •*■• Ann 
 
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 City we learned that the poor woman had climbed the mountain 
 with her husband and children, and arrived the day after us. She 
 died immediately, and so achieved the design of her pilgrimage. 
 She was buried in this cemetery. She was a Jewess, and, according 
 to the Jewish interpretation of the prophecies, the Jew that dies in 
 Jerusalem will certainly rise in paradise. 
 
 The Mount of Olives, with the customary proclivity of the faith- 
 ful, has been divided into three : the central and loftiest one is 
 called the Mount of Olives ; the northern one, Mount Scopus ; the 
 southern, the Mount of Evil Counsel. Three paths lead over the 
 Mount of Olives : one, on the north, in the sunken line which 
 marks the junction of Mount Scopus; the central one, directly 
 across the Mount of Olives, at its highest point; and a third, 
 winding at the foot of the slope which separates Olivet from the 
 Mount of Evil Counsel, A rough ride of three miles over the lat- 
 ter brought us at noon quite around the mountain-summit to Beth- 
 any. Little, however, were we disposed to complain ot the hard- 
 ships of the dreary ride, when we remembered that we were on 
 the very same road that David travelled, fleeing from Absalom, 
 " toward the way of the wilderness and wept as he went up." 
 
 Bethany, on the opposite side of Olivet, overlooks the Dend 
 Sea, and beyond it the long, stupendous range of the mountains 
 of Moab. With a previous instruction, we were able to discern the 
 Yalley of the Jordan, and to detect a silver thread of its waters, 
 lying, far away to the northeast, beyond the desert which covers 
 the eastern slope of the mountains of Judea. Bethany, as it pre- 
 sents i >self in the simple narrative of the Gospels, is a delight and 
 a charm. The friendship which existed between Jesus and Mary 
 and Martha, their implicit trust in him, and his benevolent conde- 
 scension in raising their brother from the dead, come up vividly 
 before one at the very mention of the nam > of the humble village 
 in which they lived. It was from Bethany also, then embowered 
 in olive, palm, sycamore, and fig trees, that the Lord commenced 
 that memorable, triumphal progress across the mountain to Jerusa- 
 lem, in which '' much people, that were come to the feast, when 
 they heard that Jesus was coming to Jerusalem, took branches of 
 
liUSSIAN PILUKIMS. 
 
 C51 
 
 palm-trees, and went forth to meet him, an-l cried, Ilosannal 
 IJlerised is the King of Israel that cometh in the name of tho 
 Lord." 
 
 Tho hospitalities of the (Iroek and Latin monasteries here lu'vo 
 been kindly extended to Mr. Seward by their superiors. 
 
 Mr. Seward received, to-day, visits from all the forei«m consuls 
 residing at the Holy City. After this, attended by a guard of honor, 
 he returned the visit of the Pacha of Jerusalem, and was surprised 
 to find that, although the Scala Santa was removed so long a»'o to 
 Rome, he found no ditticulty in ascending to the upi)er story, where 
 he was hospitably entertained by the present Turkish governor in 
 the palace which wc have all along been assured was the identical 
 gubernatorial residence of Pontius Pilate. Mr. Seward says that, 
 if the tradition is true, the vacillating Roman governor had a won- 
 derfully line modern house. AVe spent tlie evening " on the house- 
 tops " of the paiace of Bishop Gobat and his family. 
 
 The Greek Church in Russia has lately manifested a new and 
 extraordinary interest in regard to the Holy Land. The number 
 of pilgrims from that country has become immense. They come 
 down the Black Sea, and through the Levant. The Greeks of 
 Russia have lately built, in a beautiful suburb, an extensive church, 
 with a home or asylum for pilgrims of each sex. These structures 
 are much more costly and elegant than any other Christian estab- 
 lishments built here. The enterprise enjoys the protection, and 
 doubtless the aid, of the Russian Government. It is an indication 
 that Russia adheres, notwithstanding the disaster at Sevastopol, to 
 the cardinal policy of Peter the Great and of the late Emperor 
 Nicholas. Under whatever auspices it may happen, and with 
 whatever political design, it is gratifying to see this renewal of 
 Christian interest in Jerusalem. 
 
 June 15^/i. — "And the name of the city from that day shaU he^ 
 the Lord is there." Our last day at Jerusalem has been spent, as 
 it ought to have been, among and with the Jews, who were the 
 builders and founders of the city, and who cling the closer to it for 
 its disasters and desolation. We have mentioned that the Jewish 
 
652 
 
 EGYPT AND TALESTINE. 
 
 quarter adjoins, on the southeast, the high wa/l of the Ilaram. 
 This wall is a close one, while the ui)per part, like all the Turkiish 
 walls of the eity, is built of small stune. The base of this portion 
 of the wall, enclosing the Mosque of Omar, and the site of the 
 ancient temple, consists of live tiers of massive, accurately-bevelled 
 blocks. It is impossible to resist the impression at first view, not- 
 withstanding the prophecy, that this is a portion of the wall of 
 the Temple of Solomon, which was hewn in the quarries and set 
 up in its place without the noise of the hammer and the axe. So 
 
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 jews' wailing-plack. 
 
 at least the Jews believe. For centuries (we do not know how 
 many) the Turkish rulers Lave allowed the oppressed and exiled 
 Jews the privilege of gathering at the foot of this wall one day in 
 every week, and pouring out their lamentations over the fall of 
 their beloved city, and praying for its restoration to the Lord, who 
 promised, in giving its name, that he would " be there." 
 
 The Jewish sabbath being on Saturday, and beginning at sun- 
 set on Friday, the weekly wail of the Jews under the wall takes 
 place on Friday, and is a preparation for the rest and worship of 
 
THE AMERICAN SYNAGOOUE. 
 
 053 
 
 ftll of the Iliiram. 
 ike all the Turkisli 
 jasc of this portion 
 ud the Bite of the 
 accurately-bevelled 
 ,u at first view, uot- 
 tioii of the wall ot 
 he quarries and set 
 r and the axe. Jso 
 
 
 mt'. :^. 
 
 Ive do not know how 
 I oppressed and exiled 
 this wall one day in 
 [ions over the fall of 
 Ition to the Lord, who 
 I' be there." 
 md beginning at sun- 
 [ under the wall takes 
 [e rest and worship of 
 
 the day which they are commanded to " keep hc> ' The small 
 rectangular oblong t^rea, without roof or cant.py, serves for the 
 g.ithering of the whole renuiant ot the Jewish nation in Jerusalem. 
 Here, whether it rains or shines, they come together at an early 
 hour, old and young, men, women, and little children— the poor 
 and the rich, in their best costumes, discordant as the diverse na- 
 tions fro!n which they come. They are attended by their ral»l)is, 
 each bringing the carefully-preserved and elal)oratcly-b(»uiul text of 
 the book of the Lamentations of Jeremiah, either in their resjte''- 
 tive languages, or in the original Hebrew. For many hours they 
 pour forth their complaints, reading and reciting the poetic lan- 
 guMgo of the prophet, beating their hands against the wall, and 
 bathing the stones with their kisses and tears. It is no mere for- 
 mal ceremony. Dtiring the several hours while we were s])ectator8 
 of it, there was not one act of irreverence or indiflerence. Only 
 those who have seen the solemn prayer-meeting of a religious re- 
 vival, held by some evangelical denomination at home, can have a 
 true idea of the solemnity and depth of the profound grief and pious 
 feeling exhibited by this strange assembly on so strange an occa- 
 sion, aMioug.i no ritual in the Catholic, (jreek, or Episcopal Church 
 is conducted with mere solemnity and propriety. 
 
 Though we supposed our party unobserved, we had scarcely 
 left the place, when a meek, gentle Jew, in a long, plain brown 
 dress, his light, glossy hair falling in ringlets on either side of his 
 face, came to us, and, respectfully accosting Mr. Seward, expressed 
 a desire that he woidd visit the new synagogue, where the sabbath- 
 service was about to open at sunset. Mr. Seward assented. A 
 crowd of " the peculiar people " attended and showed us the way to 
 the new house of prayer, which we are informed was recently built 
 1)V a rich countrvman of our own whose name we did not learn. 
 It is called the American Synagogue. It is a very lofty edilice, sur- 
 mounted by a circular dome. Just underneath it a circular gallery 
 is devoted exclusively to the w'omen. Aisles run between the rows 
 of columns which support the gallery and dome. On the plain 
 stone pavement, rows of movable, wooden benches -with backs are 
 free to all who come. At the side of the synagogue, opposite the 
 
654 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 g J 
 
 
 
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 »■■;■ 
 
 8 
 
 IS! 
 
 •■■51 
 
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 door, is an elevated desk on a platform accessible only by movable 
 steps, and resembling more a pulpit than a clianeel. It was 
 adorned wltli red-damask curtains, and behind them a Hebrew in- 
 scription. Directly in the centre of the room, between the door 
 and thi§ platform, is a dais six feet high and ten feet square, sur- 
 rounded by a brass railing, carpeted, and containing cushioned 
 seats. We assume that this dais, high above the heads of the wor- 
 shippers, and on the same elevation with the platform appropriated 
 to prayer, is assigned to the rabbis. We took seats on one of the 
 benches against the '.vail; presently an elderly person, speaking 
 English imperfectly, invited Mr. Seward to change his seat ; he 
 hesitated, but, on being informed by Mr. Finkelstein that the per- 
 son vt^ho gave the invitation was the president of the synagogue, 
 Mr. Seward rose, and the whole party, accompanying him, were 
 conducted up the steps and were comfortably seated on the dais, in 
 the " chief scat in the synagogue." On this dais was a tall, branch- 
 ing, silver candlestick with seven ar.as. 
 
 The congregation now gathered in, the women filling the gal- 
 lery, and the men, in varied costumes, and wearing hats of all 
 shapes and colors, sitting or standing as they pleased. The light- 
 ing of many silver lamps, judiciously arranged, gave notice that the 
 sixth day's sun had set, and that the holy day had begun. lu- 
 st;! ntly, the worshippers, all standing, and as many as could turning 
 to the wall, began the utterance of prayer, bending backward and 
 forward, repeating the words in a chanting tone, which each read 
 from a book, in a low voice like the reciting of prayers after the 
 clergyman in the Episcopal service. It seemed to us a service 
 without prescribed form or order. When it had continued some 
 time, thinking that Mr. Seward might be impatient to leave, the 
 chief men requested that he would remain a few moments, until a 
 prayer should be olfered for the President of the United States, and 
 another for himself. Now a remarkable rabbi, clad in a long, rich, 
 flowing sacerdotal dress, walked up the aisle ; a table was lifted 
 from the floor to the platform, and, by a steep ladder which was 
 held by two assistant priests, the rabbi ascended the platform. A 
 large folio Hebrew manuscript was laid on the table before him, ^ 
 
JAFF^.. 
 
 655 
 
 sible only by movable 
 a chancel. It was 
 Q(l tlicm a Hebrew in- 
 )ni, between the door 
 1 ten feet square, sur- 
 contahiing cushioned 
 ) the heads of the wor- 
 I platform appropriated 
 )ok seats on one of the 
 lerly person, speahing 
 o change his seat; he 
 iikelstein that the per- 
 ient of the synagogue, 
 L'ompanying him, were 
 ly seated on the dais, in 
 5 dais was a tall, branch- 
 
 ! women filling the gal- 
 
 nd wearing hats of all 
 
 ley pleased. The llglit- 
 
 "•ed, gave notice that the 
 
 y day had begun. In- 
 
 s many as could turning 
 
 jending backward ami 
 
 tone, which each read 
 
 ing of prayers after the 
 
 sccn\cd to us a service 
 
 it had continued some 
 
 impatient to leave, the 
 
 a few moments, until a 
 
 )f the United States, and 
 
 ,bbi, clad in a long, rich, 
 
 isle ; a table was lifted 
 
 steep ladder which was 
 
 ended the plattbrni. A 
 
 n the table bei\>re him, , 
 
 and he recited with marked intonation, in clear fahetto, a Drayer, 
 in which he was joined by the assistants reading from the same 
 manuscript. We were at first uncertain whether this was a psalm 
 or a prayer, but we remembered that all the Hebrew prayers are 
 exp! sed in a tone which rises abo\e the recitative and approaclies 
 melody, so that a candidate for the priesthood is always re(purcd to 
 have a musical voice. At the close of the reading, the rabbi came 
 to Mr. Seward and informed him that it was a prayer ^or ihe Presi- 
 dent of the United States, and a thanksgiving for the ielivcrance 
 of the Union from its rebellious assailants. Then came a second' 
 it was in Hebrew and intoned, but the rabbi informed us that it 
 was a prayer of gratitude for :Mr. Seward's visit to the Jews at 
 Jerusalem, for his health, for his sale return to his native land, and 
 a long, happy life. The rabbi now descended, and it was evident 
 that the service was at an end. Coming down froni the dais, we 
 were met by a ba7id of musicians playing on drums, fifes, and vio- 
 lins. We questioned whether this music was a part of the service 
 of the synagogue, but our doubt was removed when we ibund it 
 accompanying us to the gate of our hotel. The Jews, in their dis- 
 persion, are understood to be forbidden the use of musical instru- 
 ments in worship. Their chants of jtraise are the traditional songs 
 of Israel, just as the Christians, who have succeeded them prefer, to 
 all other devotional hymns, the Psalms of David. 
 
 A pleasant dinner ensued with the United States consul and his 
 accomplished wife, where we had the honor oi" meeting the venera- 
 ble P>ishop Gobat and Mrs. Gobat. We infer that the Coptic, 
 Catholic, Greek, and Armenian Churches have given up the design 
 of proselytism here, and now confine their labors to the enlai'ge- 
 ment and improvement of their several convents for the entertain- 
 ment of Christian pilgrims in the Holy Land. On the other hand, 
 the Protestant missionaries from Germany, Great Britain, and the 
 United States, are the living, active preachers and teachers of tlie 
 Gospel in Syria. 
 
 Jafa, June ISih. — Wo left Jerusalem at that early hour when 
 from the " Dome of the Eock," and the Mosque el-Aksa, and from 
 
656 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 
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 every minaret in the city, the shrill Moslem call to prayer was re- 
 eounding. The Pacha of Jerusalem, with his suite and guard, 
 joined us at the Jaffii gate, and travels with us to Damascus, giv- 
 ing Mr. Seward his protection, and insisting on his taking prece- 
 dence throughout the journey. But our ways are not Turkish 
 ways, and, as a certainty, the Turkish ways are not our ways ; and, 
 while we rode together, and have entered villages and towns as one 
 party, we separated on the road to eat and sleep. The pacha and 
 his party lunched by the way-side at the foot of the wilderness of 
 John the Baptist ; we took our lunch and siesta by the side of 
 the spring under the shade of a great willow-oak-tree. We rested 
 with the good Franciscan monks at Eamleh ; the pacha and liii, 
 party were guests of the governor of that place. At Ramleh and 
 at Jaffa the Turkish bands and cavalry, with the sheiks, digni- 
 taries, and authorities of the mosques on the way, met, saluted, and 
 joined us in our progress. The gay Turkish cavalry amused and 
 interested us, on our way across the plain of Sharon, by their feats 
 of horsemanship and their strategy of battle, charge and retre.U, 
 and in the exercise of el-djerid. We do not wonder that Napoleon 
 said that, if he could have the Mameluke cavalry with the French 
 army, he could conquer the world. The journey was an easy one, 
 and the mountains of Jude.i seemed much less distant and cheerless 
 than when we were so wearily climbing them on our way to Jerusa- 
 lem. AV"e are passing our last hour here with Mrs. Hay at the 
 vice-consulate, preparatory to our embarkation with the Paclia oi 
 Jerusalem in the Apollo, an Austrian Lloyd's steamer, for Beirut. 
 
 I 
 
 i' .' 
 It 
 
 Beirut, June VMh. — We had the pleasure of a visit from the 
 eminent Dr. Van Dyck and Dr. Bliss, his worthy associate, and we 
 found them not less highly esteemed by the natives here than tlicy 
 deservedly are at home. It was our long-cherished purpose to cross 
 the range of Lebanon to Damascus, and, on the way, to visit Ilaal- 
 bec, the Grecian Ileliopoli^. Mr. Seward Avas expected at Damas- 
 cus, and arrangements had been made for his hospitable reception. 
 But the way is long ; the journey, especially the incidental excur- 
 sion to Baalbec, rough and tedious. The hot season has already 
 
TOWER OF DAVID. 
 
 iill to prayer was re- 
 us suite and guard, 
 us to Damascus, giv- 
 on his taking prece- 
 ays are not Turkish 
 i-e not our ways ; and, 
 tiges and towns as one 
 icep. The pacha and 
 t of the wilderness of 
 siesta by the side of 
 r-oak-trce. We rested 
 ih ; the pacha and his 
 dace. At Kamleh and 
 Ivith the sheiks, digni- 
 2 way, met, sahitcd, and 
 sh cavah-y amused and 
 f Sharon, by their feats 
 :le, charge and rctre.it, 
 t wonder that Kapoleon 
 -avah-y with the French 
 urney was an easy one, 
 iss distant and cheerless 
 n on our way to Jerusa- 
 with Mrs. Hay at tlie 
 ion with the Pacha of 
 ,'s steamer, for Beirut. 
 
 lure of a visit from the 
 ]v'orthy associate, and we 
 natives here than they 
 Icrished purpose to cross 
 |i the way, to visit I'aal- 
 Tvvas expected at Damas- 
 lis hospitable reception. 
 Sly the incidental exour- 
 hot season has already 
 
 657 
 
 commenced, and Mr. Seward's strength seems somewhat impaired 
 by the tatiguing explorations of Palestine. These considerations, 
 together with the temporary indisposition of another member of 
 the party, and the hazard of dividing it, obliged us, though with 
 much reluctance, to give up the journey. Perhaps the impression 
 made upon us by the unhappy tate of the two daughters of Dr. 
 Woolsey, who perished from the exhaustion of the journey from 
 Damascus to Jerusalem, last Avintcr, has had its weight. The ^--ov- 
 craor's dissuasion fr<;m tlie joa-ney decided us. 
 
 At four o'clock we left our hotel and returned to the Apollo, 
 whose deck afforded us a better view than can be obtained in the 
 town itself of the lofty range of Lebanon, with its whole western 
 declivity bathed in gorgeous light, and its long, castellated snow- 
 clad crest reflecting the rays of an unclouded setting sun. 
 
 TOWEB OF DAVID, JEKCgAtCM. 
 
CHAPTER XL 
 
 
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 J^iJOJ/ PALESTINE TO GREECE. 
 
 Impressions of Palestine. — The Egyptian Race. — Egyptian Civilization. — Phoenicia and 
 Palestine. — Tha Four Religions. — What we owe to the Jews. — Prcs.'nt State of 
 PaloHtinc. — The Island of Cyprus. — The Ccsn'ola Collection. — Sniyina. — An Excur- 
 sio.i to Ephosus. — The Seven Sleepers. — Mr. Wood's Researches.— The Temple of 
 Diana. — The Isles of Greece. — Tinos. — The City of Syra. — An Illuniiuation. 
 
 Steamer Apollo, June 20^^. — We arc to see no more of citlicr 
 Palestine or Syria. It is time to set down the result of the impres- 
 sions receiv^ed in them. As we neared the promontory of Sinai, 
 which divides the head of the Tied Sea into the two gulfs of Akaba 
 and Suez, the thought occurred that we were approaching the site 
 of the opening scene of the world's civilization. The' one half of 
 that site is Egypt, the other half Syria, including in ancient times, 
 as now, the two distinct divisions of Palestine and Phoenicia. "We 
 find no satlcfctction in the attempt to trace the nations which in- 
 habited these regions, either to a common origin or to distinct races 
 — at least we can do nothing of that kind here now. It is certain 
 that the ancient Egyptians were neither negroes from the west 
 bank of the Nile nor Arabs from the eastern shore of the Red Sea, 
 for they fought and conquered tribes and nations of both those re- 
 gions. The negroes and Arabs, like our North American Indian 
 races, prefer the desert and its habits to civilization. Neither were 
 the ancient Egyptians Jews. We di.stingnished tho Jews from the 
 Egyptians in the paintings on the tombs, especially at Beni-IIassan. 
 Nor were the ancient Egyptians of any Western type of the Cau- 
 
-<^ 
 
 THE EGYPTIAN RACE. 
 
 G59 
 
 EECE. 
 
 n Civnization.-rha?nicia ami 
 ' the Jews.— Pi-cs'-iU state of 
 nection.-Smynia.-An Excur- 
 
 s Researches.- The Temple of 
 ?yra.— An lUumiuulion. 
 
 see no more of cither 
 the result of tlieimpves- 
 10 promontory of Sinai, 
 , the two gulfs of Akaba 
 ere approaching the site 
 lation. The' one half of 
 •hiding in ancient times, 
 ine and Phcenicia. We 
 ■e the nations which iu- 
 ,rigin or to distinct races 
 here now. It is certain 
 negroes from the west 
 :rn shore of the Red Sea, 
 fitions of both those re- 
 North American Indian 
 Ivilization. Neither were 
 Inishcd tho Jews from the 
 specially at Bcni-IIassan. 
 cstern type of the Cau- 
 
 casian race. The probability is, that some tribes of Northwestern 
 Asia found their way to the fertile plains of the Delta, and ex- 
 tended their settlements up the narrow valley of the Nile, conqiier- 
 ing aboriginal peoples in the desert on either bank to the borders 
 of Nubia. Here the adventurers crowded into close contact, and, 
 threatened with invasions from either desert, as well as from the 
 savage African tribes of ancient Ethiopia, orgnnized an indepen- 
 dent and isolated state. Its history shows that Egypt never had a 
 foreign ally, and that it was rarely ambitious of foreign conquest 
 or influence. The system of government was a theocracy, not 
 of one god, but of several or many gods. Its rulers were cither 
 priests or chiefs, whom the priests confessed and reverenced as the 
 sons of gods. It is probable that no part of the Iniman race was 
 ever without a spoken language, but the ancient Egyptians im- 
 proved this possession, which is common to all nations, by adding 
 to it the inventions of architecture, writing, painting, and sculp- 
 ture, inventions by which men not only could communicate their 
 ideas to those present with them, but could record them for the in- 
 struction and guidance of succeeding generations. They acquired 
 a sutRcicnt astronomical science to mark the divisions of the year 
 and the seasons, and they acquired liigh practical skill in the irriga- 
 tion and c;iltivation of the earth. They developed a rude military 
 art, and naturally and easily acquired the little skill in navigation 
 which their inland situation required. An experience of the acci- 
 dents of the Nile taught them how, in the seasons of plenty, to 
 make provision against occasional famine. The Egyptian xiation 
 went no further. Their religion, the first known among men, ac- 
 cepted the intuitive suggestion of the liuman mind, that it cannot 
 altogether perish in death, but must at some time, and somewhere, 
 return to activity again. So the Egyptians contented themscU-es 
 with building temples worthy of the gods by whom they were pro- 
 tected, and monuments to comme:i:orate the greatness of their 
 iieroes, and with recording, in the most effective and enduring 
 manner possible, their national achievements, depositing the rec- 
 ords in those imperishable temples and monuments ; burying their 
 dead with such precautions as would preserve the body in safety, 
 
660 
 
 EGYPT /.ND PALESTINE. 
 
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 3 
 
 for the return of tlie wandering spirit which had left it, for three 
 thousand years. 
 
 Men and nations have man^'^ wants for which this unique system 
 of isolated Egyptian civilization made either no provision at all, or 
 no adequate one. The first of those wants, among a maritime 
 tribe or people, is commerce by navigation. Next, mo)*e effective 
 moaas of defence and aggression. It is not possible for the human 
 race anywhere to remain hmg in tl.e belief that they must con- 
 tinue passive subjects of a direct government of the gods. Men 
 can never be content with any one system of religion, or its ex- 
 planations of their origin, their duties, and their destinies. They 
 continually demand and strive for a higher, purer, nobler one. The 
 human mini is never content with any system of education or 
 learning in the arts. It is constantly stilving for a better and 
 more perfect one. Man is a social being, and needs society and 
 laws regulating social intercourse between states, tribes, and na- 
 tions, as much as between individuals. 
 
 These natural wants of human societv found embodiment and 
 activity among that great people which is first known to us as a 
 civilized nation on the Mediterranean coast, under the name of 
 Phoenicians. It is certain that the Phoenicians were not Egyp- 
 tians. It is equally clear that they were not Jews ; for, from the 
 earliest mention of them by Jewish historians, they were aliens and 
 strangers, and sometimes enemies. But it is certain that, while 
 tliey occasionally derived knowledge and learning from Egypt, they 
 invented and perfected commerce and navigation, laws for society 
 at home, and laws for social intercourse with foreign nations. 
 They extended and diftiv-.ed all their acquired Information, knowl- 
 edge, and arts, to the inhabitants of Asi:i Minor, and of the Greek 
 islands. Phajuicia, therefore, was the cradle of a new civilization, 
 differing and distinct from that of Egypt. This civilization, im- 
 proved by Greece and Rome, is doubtless the basis of our own 
 modern Weatern civilization. Midway between those two great 
 original states, Egypt and Phojnicia, with their very difTirent civil- 
 ization, arose a third state, distinct, different, and antagonistic to 
 both. This state was the Jewish nation, the people of Israel, who, 
 
RELIGIOUS SYSTEMS. 
 
 661 
 
 had left it, for three 
 
 as a single tribe, in a season of lamine, entered Egypt for bread. 
 After a long struggle they obtained their deliverance, and, efiectinff 
 the conquest of that portion of the Mediterranean coast M'hich lay 
 between Phoenicia on the one hand, and Egypt on the other, 
 founded the state known in ancient times, not less than in our 
 own, as Palestine. While they brought nway from Egypt nrts and 
 knowledge, they also readily adopted many of the iniprovenients 
 and arts of the Phoenicians. Whether by Divine illumination or 
 otherwise, they reached the sublime truth of the unity of God, and, 
 arraying themselves in hostility against the Phoenicians and the 
 Egyptians, who both denied it, and adhered to their polytheistic 
 system, they became a distinct and independent people. They 
 have held ever since to that simple and sublime faith. 
 
 What, then, does modern civilization owe to the Jewish na- 
 tion ? Not letters, nor architecture, nor painting, nor sculpture, 
 nor philosophy, nor science, nor civil government. All these, 
 modern society has derived from the Phoenicians or the Egyptians, 
 or from both. But modern civilization derives its knowlcdire of 
 the relations of man toward his Maker, and the system of taith, 
 morals, and manners, built upon that knowledge, from the Jewish 
 nation. The religious systems now existing in the world are only 
 four : First, pagan, that of ancient Egypt ; second, Jewish, that 
 of the Hebrews ; third, Christian ; fourth, Mohammedan. Jews, 
 Christians, and Mohammedans, all agree that the Jewish faith is 
 an advance above paganism. All equally agree that Christianity 
 is an advance above paganism.. All equally agree that Mohamme- 
 danism, with all its errors, is an advance above paganism. But 
 the Jewish religion was established by the Jews alone — Christian- 
 ity comes to us as a gift from the Jewish nation — and even Mo- 
 hammedanism is only a perversion of Christianity, derived from 
 the Jews. Thus the world owes these three forms of religion di- 
 rectly or indirectly to the Jewish nation. 
 
 Now, it is to be noticed that all these three systems of religion 
 are favorable and effective in advancing human progress ; that 
 however nations, which embrace either of these faiths, may decline, 
 yet the progress which tli^y introduce is taken up and continued 
 
 43 
 
G62 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
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 ' '.AH 
 
 1:; 
 
 
 Hi' 
 
 3;jsi 
 
 
 by other nations; whereas the civilization which is bnilt npon a 
 system of pagan faith has been corrupted, and is becoming effete 
 everywhere. Continental Asia needs regeneration, and can obtain 
 it only through the agency of AVestern civilization derived fiv..ii the 
 Jewish nation. Western civilization is living and effective, and, 
 while it is progressing in the West, it is actively regenerating the 
 effete civilisation of the East. 
 
 Wc have said that we owe neither science, nor government, nor 
 arts, nor arms, to the Jews ; but all considerate men will agree 
 that we have derived poetry from that people — if not the art of 
 poetry itself, at least that part of the art which is most sublime and 
 feoB^iicent in its influences. Moreover, to whom, but to the Jewish 
 nation, are we indebted for the civilization of domestic life and its 
 relations ? Certainly not to Egypt. Ancient Egypt, indeed, occa- 
 sionally had queens, but no women. Neither her monuments, her 
 sculpture, nor her painting, present us with the idea of woman as 
 that idea has developed and culminated in a civilized age. Wher- 
 ever the pagan system prevails, throughout all Asia, woman is 
 unknown as a force or power in society. Nor can we ti*ace the 
 domestic relation in its present form to Greece or Phoenicia, Avliile 
 it was perfectly developed in the Jews as early as the time of our 
 Saviour, Heroic men have their discords in profane history, but it 
 is only in the sacred history of the Jews and of the Christians in 
 Jerusalem that we find Mary, Martha, Esther, Ruth, Naomi, 
 Rachel, and the daugliter of Jephthah. There are two other obliga- 
 tions of modern society to the Jewish nation. While we do not 
 suppose that society has existed in any country without laws, yet it 
 was tlirough the Jewish nation that we have received the deca- 
 logue, paramount in authority to all merely conventional laws, as 
 well as superior in the comprehensiveness of its commands. Again, 
 while all nations have felt the necessity of occasional days of rest 
 and devotion as indispensable to society, it was the Jews who first 
 had the idea of resting on the seventh day and hallowing it. 
 
 The population of Palestine is estimated at only two hundred 
 thousand. It is scattered over mountains, which seem only min- 
 gled masses of rocks and ruins, with hei>e and there a smiling val- 
 
POVERTY OF JERUSALEM. 
 
 668 
 
 icli is built npon a 
 1 is becoming effete 
 tion, and can obtain 
 ion derived fi>>-n the 
 r and effective, and, 
 ely regenerating the 
 
 nor government, nov 
 srate men will agree 
 c— if not the art of 
 1 is most sublime and 
 Dm, but to the Jewish 
 ■ domestic V.fe audits 
 t Egypt, indeed, occa- 
 r her monuments, her 
 the idea of woman as 
 civilized age. Whcr- 
 t all Asia, woman is 
 'for can we trace the 
 ce or Phoenicia, while 
 rly as the time of our 
 profane history, but it 
 1 of the Christians in 
 Isther, Ruth, Naomi, 
 are two other obliga- 
 While we do not 
 y without laws, yet it 
 |ve received the deca- 
 conventional laws, as 
 ts commands. Again, 
 icoasional days of rest 
 as the Jews who first 
 .d hallowing it. 
 at only two hundred 
 which seem only min- 
 Id there a BPiiling val- 
 
 n. 
 
 ley or dell, which in vain solicits society and cultivation. Jeru- 
 salem, without trade, without any organized society, without even 
 rich landed proprietors, is a congregation of ecclesiasti^-s and me- 
 chanics or artisans, who subsist by supplying the few wants of the 
 annual crowds of religious pilgrims, generally poor, who come to 
 pay their vows at the sepulchre. Probably no town of an equal 
 population in the Alps or Rocky Mountains is so universally poor 
 as Jerusalem. In looking over the country now, travellers find it 
 difficult to conceive that it once sustained three millions of vi"-or- 
 ous, prosperous, and happy people. Travellers base two different 
 ways of accounting for this : a skeptical class conclude that the an- 
 cient glory and greatness of Palestine were exaggerated ; another 
 class, pious and credulous, infer that the land has been wasted by a 
 scourge, a curse for the obduracy of its ancient people. The truth 
 doubtless is, that Palestine in the day of the Jewish nation was just 
 as it is described by her poets and prophets : its valleys rejoiced in 
 corn and wine ; its mountains were covered with olives, fin-s. 
 pomegranates, and mulberries, and even its rocky clitls with flocks 
 and herds. For two thou:*and years, Palestine has been a theatre 
 of civil war, and of loreign wars instigated by ambition, cupidity, re- 
 ligious propagandism, and persecution. Persians, Greeks, Romans, 
 Christians, Mussulmans, English, French, Turks, and Germans, 
 have all participated in these conflicts. Its ancient people, ex- 
 hausted, dispersed, impoverished, and desolated, have left the ter- 
 races on its mountains to go to waste, after being denuded of their 
 woody covering, while they have fled from and abandoned its thou- 
 sand villages for shelter in the rocks. "We know not what has 
 become of the race which once made Palestine the pride and glory 
 of the world — they have mostly disappeared in these desolating 
 wars. 
 
 The Roman conquerors were content with subjugating the coun- 
 try ; the Crusaders were neither agriculturists, shepherds, nor colo- 
 nists ; and those who remained wore merely monks and hermits. 
 Mussulman propagandism- employs only the exterminating sword, 
 and the Turk has extended into Palestine the barbarism which the 
 successful armies of the "Prophet" established m every country 
 
6G4 
 
 EGYPT AXD PALESTINE. 
 
 El 
 
 
 ic - 8 
 
 u< 
 
 Ik. *■ 
 
 "1 
 
 where they appeared. The Bedouin Arabs followed the Moham- 
 medan conquerors, and there could be no safe or peacefid cultiva- 
 tion in the neighborhood of their tents. While this devastation 
 has in every century become more complete, the European nations 
 h . ! a as constantly moved with a desire for the regeneration 
 ot Jt*ajestine. This desire has manifested itself in two schemes very 
 different, and yet both equally impracticable. 
 
 The Jews expect the regeneration of Palestine through a provi- 
 dential restoration of themselves to the ancient city. The Chris- 
 tians look for the same happy consummation through the missionary 
 instruction of this discordant and wretched peoi)le. AVe would 
 disturb no benevolent religious hope, but it seems to us that the 
 ways appointed or allowed by Providence do not necessarily re- 
 quire the restoration of Jerusalem or of Palestine to the power and 
 prestige they enjoyed under the reign of Solomon, any more than 
 they require the restoration of Memphis and Egypt, of Athens and 
 Greece, of Home and Italy. If Solomon could come again upon 
 the earth, and see the mocking Mosque of Omar on the site of the 
 glorious temple he built, and see his royal gardens run to bramblos 
 and weeds, and find, instead of the towers and palaces in which 
 he gloried, a city enclosing within a Turkish wall a mere huddle 
 of itifidels — the Egypt which he feared, a solitude — the Ezion-gebc)-, 
 whence he dispatched his ships to Ophir, a heap of sand — and 
 Lebanon covered with mulberries instead of cedars and firs, we 
 think he would concede that there is at last " something new under 
 the sun." Nevertheless, it is only in one sense that there is change 
 from the past. Human nature and the human race are the same. 
 They change places, circumstances, and conditions, but their destiny 
 remains the same, and their progress toward .it is continuous and 
 onward. Empires and nations, as well as individual!*, are mortal, 
 but the human race, for aught we know, is continuous on earth. In 
 modern times, at least, the work of human progress is carried on 
 chiefly by commerce and immigration ; perhaps it was always so. 
 Long before the tall of Jerusalem, " the star of empire " had begun 
 to move westward. It is likely to continue to move in the same 
 direction until it returns to the point in the heavens whence 
 
CYPIIUS. 
 
 Gcr> 
 
 it took its departure. Kew capitals and now nations have already 
 come into existence, and more will come before Palestine and Jem- 
 salem will be restored. But this is not discouraginfr to any just 
 hopes of the East. A slight improvement is already noticeable in 
 Palestine. Jaffa, Caipha, and Beirut already exhibit some i)leaHing 
 germs of progress planted by the always patient and enteriirislng 
 Germans. The more that new capitals and nations are built up in 
 the Wcrit, the more will the renewing, revivifying effect be felt 
 in the East, and, without waiting for the establirihmcnt of republics 
 and Christianity in India and China, or even in Japan, we may see 
 civilized, enlightened Christian nations come into existence in 
 Palestine, as well as in Syria and in Egypt. 
 
 Tlie Jewish improvement and Christian missions are not to be 
 rejected or undervalued. They will cooperate in i)roducing these 
 results, though insufficient in themselves to produce them. The 
 Jewish endowments and Christian missions are, after all, only for- 
 eign charities. No nation ever was or can be regenerated by mere 
 charity from abroad. But charity, going hand-in-hand with com- 
 merce and immigration, effects every thing. It has been so in the 
 Sandwich Islands, and in every part of America. Perhaps we need 
 to see Constantinople before we decide upon the important question 
 whether the empire of Turkey is beginning to yield to the renovat- 
 ing influences which reach it from the West. It is certain that 
 thus far in Palestine and Syria, as well as in Egypt, we find Mussul- 
 man bigotry modified, and Oriental prejudices declining. This is 
 an auspicious omen of the gradual improvement of Palestine. "We 
 have seen, not only the railroad, but the ship-canal in Egypt, as 
 well as the turnpike-road and the telegraph in Palestine. Why 
 may we not expect to sec the railroad as well as the telegraph in 
 Palestine ? How can there be telegraphs and railroads anywhere 
 withou'; progress and civilization ? 
 
 June 21st, of C>/j)7nis. — The island of Cyprus, the Turkish out- 
 post in the Mediterranean, known to us only by the fervent poetic 
 descriptions of the ancients, and by the commercial reports of its 
 fruitfulness in modern times, M'as for us, as we suppose it is for all 
 
060 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 r i 
 
 ;3 
 
 
 r- 
 t 
 
 
 
 ^■'«j' 
 
 travellers, a disappointment. Its population, once a million, is now 
 only eighty thousand. Its first capital Paphos, now a mere village 
 on the beach — its later capital, Idalium, sunk into the earth, is now 
 visited only at Larnica, a dull modern Turkish village seaport, au 
 ngly town at the base of a broken range of sand-hills. Small 
 clusters of dote-palms or orchards appear at intervals at the left of 
 the village, while a small strip of verdur j stretches behind the town 
 at the foot of the parched hills. They tell us here that they have 
 had no rain for three years, and the island is dried up. Exaggerated 
 as the description of it may have been by the ancients, it is never- 
 theless an island abounding in the richest and rarest of fruit. Not 
 only its figs, but its raisins and wine, are recognized as familiar 
 articles of commerce throughout the world. The United States 
 consul, General di Cesnola, entertained us during the morning, 
 and we had an opportunity to test the island proverb that " so 
 many days are added to one's allotted term oflife, by every draught 
 of its delicious wine." We did not quaff enough to add much to 
 our longevity, although 
 
 ''The brown bees of Ilymettus 
 Make their Loney not so sweet." 
 
 We were especially interested in a rare collection of antiques 
 which General di Cesnola has fortunately made. Purchasing a 
 piece of ground, once a fiirm, which proved to be part of the ancient 
 city of Idalium, and obtaining leave of the Turkish authorities to 
 dig, he has gone down through at least three cemeteries in tiers, 
 one above another, and has unearthed more than fourteen thou- 
 sand articles, from the tombs of successive generations, which flour- 
 ished through a period of probably two thousand years. Each one 
 of these relics has a great value for its rarity, but the aggregate 
 collection has a peculiar and even a more curious one, because it 
 presents works of art and taste, statues, tablets, busts, vases, lamps, 
 coins, and inscriptions, utensils and ornaments of gold, silver, glass, 
 and terra-cotta, in a combination that, like a series of chronological 
 tables, illustrates the history not only of Cyprus, but of civilization 
 itself. 
 
SMYIiNA. 
 
 007 
 
 CO a million, is now 
 now n mere village 
 to the earth, is now 
 I village seaport, an 
 t" sand-hills. Small 
 :crval8 at the loft of 
 hes behind the town 
 here that they have 
 cd up. Exaggerated 
 ancients, it is never- 
 rarest of fruit. Not 
 icognizcd as familiar 
 The United States 
 luring the morning, 
 lid proverb that "so 
 life, by every draught 
 ough to add much to 
 
 IS 
 fQQV 
 
 collection of antiques 
 made. Purchasing a 
 be part of the ancient 
 Turkish authorities to 
 ee cemeteries in tiers, 
 e than fourteen tho\i- 
 nerations, which flour- 
 iand years. Each one 
 •ity, but the aggregate 
 'urious one, because it 
 jts, busts, vases, lamps, 
 ts of gold, silver, glass, 
 series of chronological 
 •rus, but of civilization 
 
 The lowest stratum is a collection of articles as low and rude as 
 the attempts at carving and sculpture of the North-American In- 
 dians. These were either made by or copied from the ancient 
 Egyptians and Assyrians. Then conies the next stratum, compris- 
 ing the improved works of art of the Pha'nicians, nearer iieiglibors 
 to Cyprus, and historically recogniz»;d as its colonizers. Next 
 come relics of the Persians ; next after them, in the ascendino- 
 series, are those of the Greeks, among which are works of statuary 
 and carving not unworthy of the times of Pericles and Phidias ; 
 then those of the era ol' Alexander ; lastly, those of the period of 
 the Roman emperors. 
 
 There is a remarkable unity, however, running through the 
 whole of these relies. In every layer of thom were fouiul mani- 
 fold figures of Venus, the guardian goddess of the Cyprians, in 
 every attitude and association, from a plate of copper roughly 
 shapen into a human form to the Goddess of Love rising from the 
 wave in the conch-shell at Paphos, or attended by her son Cupid in 
 her triumphal car, drawn by gentle doves, graceful swans, or active 
 little sparrows. We noticed no Christian relics. Paul and Bar- 
 nabas labored here. The latter was a native of Cyprus, but doubt- 
 less their contemporaries and followers had modes of sepulture dif- 
 ferent from those of the pagans. It is sincerely to be hoped that 
 this valuable collection will be secured by some museum or archceo- 
 logical society in the United States.' 
 
 Smyrna, June lUh. — Smyrna, the ancient queen of Ionia, 
 which, according to the historical accounts, has slidden down the 
 rocky coast to the level beach, presents a scene of life and activity 
 unusual in the East. The harbor and wharves are filled with light 
 and graceful shipping. We mistook for a mod rn Turkish fortifica- 
 tion the ruins of a Venetian fort on a clifi' which overhangs the 
 city with picturesque effect. Near the summit is the cave-tomb 
 which is consecrated in Christian affections as the tomb of Poly- 
 carp, native bishop and martyr of Sn)yrna. The town, stretching 
 
 ' Since this was written, the Cesnola collection has been purchased for the Metropoli- 
 tan Museum of Art, and is now (1873) in New Yorli. 
 
668 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 
 m. 
 
 ;n« 
 
 
 
 « 
 
 »- 
 
 '•^ 
 
 ( 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 '•'> 
 
 J 
 
 1 
 
 « 
 
 f 
 
 :* 
 
 t, 
 
 .:i 
 
 
 I*- 
 
 a mile along the curving shore, r.eems nearly embowered in orange- 
 orchards and cypress-groves. On near approach, an ancient part 
 of the town wears the dull aspect of age and neglect, but there is r 
 new quarter which exhibits elegant structures, indicative of com- 
 mercial prosperity and enterprise. This improvement, together 
 with a railroad just constructed, excites some hope that Greece, so 
 long dead, may live again. The government estimate of the popu- 
 lation is one hundred and fifty thousand ; we think it one hundred 
 tJiousand. 
 
 Here, as in other Turkish ports, the authorities, with the United 
 States consul, came on board to receive Mr. Seward, and gave him 
 on shore a demonstrative welcome. We lose no time in making an 
 excursion by railroad this afternoon to the ruins of Ephesus. 
 
 Smyrna is situated nearly midway on a promontory which pro- 
 jects into the iEgean. Ephesus is fifty miles southeast, at the head 
 of the bay, and at the mouth of the Meander, while Samos, at the 
 opening of the bay, commands both ports. 
 
 The country between Smyrna and Ephesus, even under Turkish 
 rule, is highly cultivated with cereals and fruits. At this season it 
 is brightly pink and green with wild oleanders and grain-fields, 
 while it is not without the embellishment of ornamental villas and 
 many pretty villages. 
 
 Guides, horses, and gi'ooms, were in waiting, in pursuance of 
 telegraphic instructions, at the station. We rode in the rosy light 
 of sunset across the low banks of the Meander, a marsh now, as it 
 was two thousand years ago. The bay affords a magnificent har- 
 bor, with distant views of Samos and Scio. 
 
 Ephesus stood on a plain broken by hills, high but easy of 
 ascent. The famous Temple of Diana is represented by the an- 
 cients as having been conspicuous in the approach to the city from 
 the sea. Probably all or most of the public edifices stood on the 
 summits of the hills, while the lower grounds, rot less than the hills 
 themselves, were occupied with dwellings and shops. 
 
 There is no reason to doubt that Ephesus wore a noble as well 
 as a cheerful aspect. Within the entire area of the ancient city 
 there is not now found one human habitation. There are ruins, 
 
CAVE OF THE "SEVEN SLEEPERS." 
 
 GG9 
 
 nbowered in orange- 
 acli, an ancient part 
 cfflect, but there is r 
 5, indicative of com- 
 provement, together 
 hope that Greece, so 
 estimate of the popu- 
 think it one hundred 
 
 rities, with the United 
 .eward, and gave hiui 
 no time in making an 
 ins of Ephesus. 
 romontory which pro- 
 ; southeast, at the head 
 r, while Samos, at the 
 
 as, even under Turkish 
 
 lits. At this season it 
 
 iders and grain-fields, 
 
 ornamental villas and 
 
 iting, in pursuance of 
 s rode in the rosy light 
 ier, a marsh now, as it 
 rds a magnificent har- 
 
 illls, high but easy of 
 •epresented by the an- 
 ,roach to the city from 
 3 edifices stood on the 
 ;, not less than the hills 
 d shops. 
 
 IS wore a noble as well 
 rea of the ancient city 
 tion. There are ruins, 
 
 but nothing more, nothing else. Entering that area, we found 
 that experimental excavations had been made, whidi had left fra*'- 
 ments of marble columns scattered in all directions. Crossing-, 
 not without some danger, the gaping pits made by these excava- 
 tions, we found, on one of the hill-sides, the cemetery of the Ephc- 
 sians. Tombs, some single alcoves, others vaulted chambers, had 
 been cut in the solid rock. The largest of these chambers was as- 
 serted by our Turkish guide to be the tomb of St. Luke. But our 
 historical researches do not give us any satisfactory account of the 
 manner of the death of that apostle. Descending from the hill, we 
 came into a wild, romantic dell, where an angle of the precipice 
 had been cut away and two large chambers excavated, one of them 
 having a vaulted Grecian roof. We could not conjecture the de- 
 sign of this grotto, overhung with tangled shrubs and trees. It 
 seemed too airy and graceful for a tomb, too inconvenient and som- 
 bre for a dwelling, and too small for a temple. Our guide solved 
 the difficulty with ease. He said it was the identical cave of the 
 " Seven Sleepers." He did not know when the seven sleepers 
 went to sleep or why. Fortunately, our early reading of j-omance 
 supplied us with the pretty legend. 
 
 Seven noble youths, who had embraced Christianity in the third 
 century at Ephesus, were walled up in this cave, together with a 
 faithful dog. After resting there two centuries, the wall was re- 
 moved — and here the legend divides : One version is, that they 
 showed themselves to the people, and went on their way rejoicing ; 
 the dog as jubilant as the rest. The Mohammedan version is, that, 
 though their bodies were found, their spirits ascended to heaven, 
 and that there they, as well as the good dog, yet live and flourish, 
 in immortal youth ; the latter having for his s )ciety in paradise 
 several other noble brutes, namely, the ram that Abraham sacri- 
 ficed instead of his son Isaac, Baalam's remonstrating ass, the ass 
 which the Saviour rode on his triumphal entry into Jerusalem, and 
 the mare which Mohammed rode in his ascent to paradise. 
 
 The Greek Christians, apparently not less superstitious than 
 their brethren of Rome, have stu^ 'cd the cave, and converted it 
 into a chapel in honor of one of their modern saints. These man- 
 
C70 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 •> -J 
 
 8oleums of Ephcsus were remarkable for being less spacious and 
 more tasteful in architecture and ornament than those of Egypt 
 and Palestine. No one of them is finished without the use of the 
 curved line. 
 
 Passing down and around this hill-cemetery, we confronted, on 
 another eminence, the ruins of a vast and massive circular edifice. 
 The wall is constructed of stones as large and well hewn as those 
 in the wall of the wailing-place at Jerusalem, but heaps of small 
 stones, bricks, and mortar, are mingled with them, which indicate 
 either the frugal age of architecture, or at least the time when the 
 Roman conquerors of Ephesus repaired the structure. Broken 
 marble columns, architraves, and cornices, half covered by rubbish, 
 prove the dignity of this edifice, and archcEologists have decided 
 that it was the stadium of the city — a place used for popular and 
 municipal assemblies. 
 
 Winding our way around the base of the same eminence, we 
 reached another ruin, far more beautifn' and, at the same time, 
 unmistakable in its design. It is the ruin of an amphitheatre, 
 small indeed, but constructed entirely of fine white marble. The 
 basement-story, subdivided into halls, corridors, and chambers, is 
 otill perfect, and the semicircular rows of scats, rising toward the 
 sides, would be comfortable for an audience even now. All the 
 other parts of the little theatre, including the walls, columns, roof, 
 and cornices, have fallen into the area, but the fragments of each 
 part may easily be distinguished. An architect would find no dif- 
 ficulty in rebuilding the theatre in its original form and propor- 
 tions. But this is not the only place of popular amusement. Sepa- 
 rated from this theatre only by an avenue of well-worn tessellated 
 pavement, we came to the ruin of another amphitheatre four times 
 more spacious than the first, the model the same, the material tlie 
 same, but more exquisitely wrought. The seats must have been 
 sufficient to accommodate thirty thousand spectators. The outer 
 door-ways remain unbroken. On their white-marble jambs, in 
 pure ancient Greek, in letters perfectly legible, as if engraved yes- 
 terday, are the police rules for the conduct of the theatre, and even 
 the names of the dramatis personoe. The vaulted chambers for the 
 
EPHESUS. 
 
 671 
 
 ig less spacious and 
 than those of Egypt 
 ithout the use of the 
 
 y, we confronted, on 
 3sive circular edifice, 
 d well hewn as those 
 1, but heaps of small 
 them, which indicate 
 ist the time when the 
 5 structure. Broken 
 f covered by rubbish, 
 ologists have decided 
 used for popular and 
 
 e same eminence, we 
 id, at the same time, 
 of an amphitheatre, 
 3 white marble. The 
 iors, and chambers, is 
 sats, rising toward the 
 even now. All the 
 walls, columns, roof, 
 the fragments of each 
 ect would find no dif- 
 nal form and propor- 
 ar amusement. Sepa- 
 well-worn tessellated 
 nphitheatre four times 
 lame, the material the 
 ,eats must have been 
 pectators. The outer 
 ite-marble jambs, in 
 le, as if engraved yos- 
 the theatre, and even 
 ulted chambers for the 
 
 confinement of the wild beasts, with arched passages leading from 
 them into the arena, remain in perfect preservation. Taking our 
 places on the upper tier, and looking down upon the space now 
 covered with the confused mass of broken mar])le columns, walls, 
 and statuary, we said to ourselves. This, if not the adjoining ruin, 
 must be "the theatre into which the people rushed, with one ac- 
 cord," when Paul alarmed Demetrius, the silversmith "which 
 made silver shrines for Diana," together with the workmen of like 
 occupation, by preaching that " they be no gods which are made 
 with hands." 
 
 And, since we find here the cages of the beasts and the arena, 
 this surely is the place where Paul " fought with beasts at Ephe- 
 6US." So it was from the beginning, and so it will be to the end. 
 The proudest work of man's hands must perish and disappear from 
 the earth, while no thought of God's can ever die. Though we 
 cannot identify even the grave of one of the thousands to whom 
 Paul preached the unity and spirituality of God, nor can we trace 
 his remains to their final resting-place, yet his utterance of that 
 divine truth already encircles the earth, and, if the soul of man be 
 immortal, must survive the earth itself. 
 
 Thus far we felt that we were treading on tolerably safe ground 
 in exploring the history of Ephesus. Now, however, on looking 
 off toward the sea, we saw, on the northern promontory, a cir- 
 cular, castellated tower, which certainly is not as old as the Pyra- 
 mids nor as new as Fortress Monroe. Inquiring what it was, we 
 were answered that it was " St. Paul's prison." It is more prob- 
 ably the ruin of a Saracenic (possiblv a Roman) watch-tower. We 
 next passed over an elevated plain designated, perhaps not without 
 reason, as a field of gymnastic exercises similar to the Olympic 
 games. 
 
 Ephesus, so completely ruined, is now nearly lost sight of by 
 travellers ; but an English gentleman, Mr. Wood, is here conduct- 
 ing researches for the British Museum. He believes he has recently 
 discovered, by unmistakable signs, the site of the temple dedicated 
 to the worship " of the great goddess Diana, and of the image 
 which fell down from Jupiter." Mr. "Wood is said to have care- 
 
t '-'I i 
 
 « 
 
 >■■*« 
 
 lii. 
 
 ! 
 
 
 Ma 
 
THE ISLES OF GREECE. 
 
 073 
 
 mftmm 
 
 
 
 ..flfe:"" 
 
 
 mm 
 
 fully covered the columns wliich lie has discovered, a service to his- 
 tory for which he docs not receive the thanks of the guides or the 
 few tourists who penetrate to Ephcsus. 
 
 AVe left Ephesus under the beams of a crescent moon (though not 
 as the Turks paint it, with Venus between its horns), and reached 
 the hospitable homo of our consul, Mr. Smithers, at midnight. 
 
 It wis the eve of St. John, and, late as the hour was, the en- 
 tire population was in the streets, which were blazing with bon- 
 fires. We are not surprised at this devout reverence i)aid to his 
 memory, for we recall the fact that the apostolic missionaries, when 
 they first came to Ephesus, found there Jews who practised the rite 
 of baptism, but knew only the baptism of John. 
 
 Grecian Archipelago, June 2ith. — Pleasant courtesies were ex- 
 changed between Mr. Seward and the Turkish autliorities at 
 Smyrna. We parted here with our excellent fv'end Betts Bey, 
 and reembarked, at four o'clock, on the steamer Apollo. 
 
 Jime 2oth. — " The isles of Greece " cannot be studied in their 
 present sober and commonplace reality. A poetic atmosphere per- 
 vades them, and they rise before you, not in their present loal dul- 
 ncss and isolation, but in the life and glowing warmth in which 
 they have been sung by Homer and Byron. 
 
 What a pretty, white village is this of Tinos which we arc pass- 
 ing, Avitli the hills behind it terraced to their summits with orange- 
 orchards and vineyards ! Green little Delos, rising gracefully from 
 the sea as we arc gliding past, tempts us to go asliore and search 
 among its hills for the remains of the Temple of Apollo, so fomous 
 for its sanctity. Syra has modern beauty that gives it a charm, 
 needing nothing from antiquity to make it p^^^vaetive. Little of 
 Syra is ever read or heard of in the West, except that it is a mid- 
 way station of exchange of products between the Greek ports. A 
 town of five thousand dwellings is built on the face of a triple hill, 
 the streets horizontal and parallel, one above another, so that, from 
 the deck of our steamer in the harbor, we look into the door of every 
 house in the city. Belonging to Greece, the island is inhabited ex- 
 clusively by Christians. For the first time since we arrived in Japan, 
 
C7'J: 
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 nine months ago, pagan temples and Moslem mosques have disap- 
 peared, and Christianity confronts neither dissent nor opposition. 
 Mr. Seward was received by the Greek governor and United 
 
 ■» III 
 
 m .3 
 
 I. 
 
 
 s 
 
 
 A GBEEK OFFICIAL. 
 
 States consul, and our party enjoyed a delightful promenade con- 
 cert in the small public square, where it seemed as if all the inhabi- 
 tants had conic cut for evening recreation, news, coffee, and itcs. 
 The Greek costumes of both sexes, more artistic than any in tlic 
 world, imparted a poetic air to the scene. 
 
 Wo embarked at seven o'clock, the last hour which the regula- 
 tions allow for a stay in port. The steamer lingered unaccountably. 
 As night came on, tires were seen creeping along the rocky terraces 
 of the triple hill. These bonfires increasing for a time, at \-M 
 gave way to a pillar of fire near the summit. There were rockets 
 and balloons, and at length the beautiful Church of St. George, 
 
AN ILLUMINATION. 
 
 G 
 
 la 
 
 mosques have disap- 
 nt nor opposition. 
 3vernor and United 
 
 5=A 
 
 MM 
 
 k'i 
 
 wliich cro"wns tlic liigliest and central conical liill, ilaslicd tortli in 
 tidl blaze of red, white, and blue lights. AVc had been detained I'or 
 an illumination in honor of Mr. Seward's visit. 
 
 He has met here some of the survivors of the emissaries uho 
 visited the United States to secure aid for the Greek Ruvolutiim in 
 1827. This illumination was a conseqnence of his sympathy with 
 the Greek cause. Comparing notes with these revolutionists, they 
 enjoyed the pleasing reflection that, although their sanguine hopes 
 for the recov'iry of all Greece had not been accomplished, yet that 
 a not inconsiderable part of ancient Greece, main-iand as well as 
 islands, had been restored to independence and Christianity ; and 
 that the mass of the Greek people are enjoying a measure of 
 practical civil and religious liberty unknown since the days of 
 Pericles, and one which could not have been conceived by either 
 Alcibiades or Demosthenes. 
 
 m 
 
 i<rhtful promenade oon- 
 
 lined as if all the hdial)!- 
 
 , news, coflee, and ico?. 
 
 rtistic than any in the 
 
 l,our which the rcgula- 
 1 lingered unaccountably. 
 
 along the rocky terraces 
 Ising tor a time, at last 
 
 ^it. There were rockets 
 Church of St. George, 
 
 A GBOUP OF mSADB FROM THE CF.BNOLA COLLKCTION. 
 

 miK 
 
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 PART VI. 
 
 EUROPE 
 

 
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CHAPTER I. 
 
 ATHENS AXD COXSTANTINOrLE. 
 
 Athens.— The Piraeus.— The Ilymcttua.— The Ilyssus.— Jlr. Tiiokerman.— Quocn OV^a. 
 —Grecian Ruins compared with those of Egypt and Hindostaii.— Mi.dcni (li'eeeo, 
 the Mexico of Europe.— The Sea of Marniovii.— Taking; Constantinople by Surpiise. 
 —A Coutre-Tcmps.—XWn Well that Ends Well.— The Sultan Ahdul-Azi/.— A Busy 
 Day.— E.xcursions.— Charms of Constantino|)le.— The Old Sera-;lio — Fouith of July. 
 —Robert College.— The Bosporus.— Turkish Women.— The Xi w Palaee.— Untimely 
 Visit.— Kiamil Pacha.- Ai'.Jicnce with the Sultan.— Departure from Constantinople. 
 
 Athens, June 'i^th. — We have "done" Athens in thirtv-si.x 
 hours, because we have no more liours to do it in. AlthouL'h wo 
 feel somewhat the worse for it, there is no sign thnt Atliens lias 
 suffered. Our keen appetite for antiques and eccentricities of hu- 
 man progress h.as been dulled. It seems to us now that, here in 
 Greece, instead of continuing our progress down the stream of the 
 old civilization of the world, we are beginning to ascend the tide 
 of a new one. 
 
 "We arrived at six yesterday mcining, at the Pirteus, the port 
 of modern Athens, but no longer walled and fortified as in the 
 days of Pericles. It was not without a feeling of awe, almost of 
 reverence, that we recognized, in the moimtain-chain which borders 
 the plain we are entering, the ancient Ilymettus, and the wliole 
 glorious though brief history of Athenian greatness rushed upon 
 us as we looked upon the more distant range which outlines the 
 Peloponnesus. Deviating from the direct road, we approached the 
 citv through one of those vast cemeteries bv which historians tell 
 us it was entirely surror.nded outside of the ancient walls. Strange 
 to say, t\\v cemetery has a i)leasing rather than a melancholy as- 
 
G80 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
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 r 1 
 
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 pcct. No galling vaults, no revolting mummies, no tombs, no sar- 
 copliagi, arc here. All uxcavati(jna have been iilled up and lev- 
 elled, while the mOiiuments which covered them have been giitl>- 
 ered and carefully ar.'anged. The monuments, in no case colossal, 
 consist of marble statuary, and tablets engraved and inscribed in 
 alto-rilievo. The execution in all cases is exquisite, the design al- 
 ways touching and simple. 
 
 Modern Athens is a town of fifty thousand inhabitants. Al- 
 though it retains and preserves most interesting and wonderful 
 monuments of the past, it is nevertheless purely Euro])ean, and has 
 put the ancient world of Africa and Asia out of sight. Its streets 
 are of comfortable width, well paved ; its buildings, with few ex- 
 
 A r.RF;EK WOMAN. 
 
 ceptions, are modern, but crowded too densely. We took lodgings 
 at the Hotel d'Angleterre, at the foot of the beautiful gardens of 
 
HIIIDGE AT ELEUSIS. 
 
 681 
 
 no tombs, no sar- 
 
 iillcd up '"^^ ^*^^'" 
 n have been gsitl- 
 
 in no case colossal, 
 d and inscribed in 
 igite, tbe design ul- 
 
 id inhabitants. Al- 
 iting and wonderful 
 iy European, and has 
 of sight. Its streets 
 
 ildingSj 
 
 with few ex- 
 
 tho Royal Pahieo. The iiekls round Athens arc brown from a loner 
 (h'ought, but the monotony is rolicvcd by u wide belt of olivc-tret^ 
 
 ees 
 
 BKIPGE AT KLErSIS. 
 
 ■ly. We toolclodgings 
 beautiful gardens of 
 
 which stretch behind the city, and in the valley quite to the foot of 
 Hymettus. The cloudless atmosphere imparts to the mountains 
 that deep-azure hue which enthusiastic writers call the " violet 
 crown " of Athens. The Ilyssus, lilce most of the classic streams 
 of Europe, is a disappointment to the American traveller. 
 
G82 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
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 •Mft-iK 
 Bt.- *H 
 
 r 1 
 
 W', (IB 
 
 
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 It. 
 
 5^ 
 
 
 II 
 
 
 
 e/i<«<? 28^A. — Mr. Tuc'kcrman, the able and accomplished United 
 States minister, being absent from Greece, had arranged with the 
 ministry in regard to Mr. Seward's reception, and had left the 
 legation in the care of the United States consul, charged with the 
 duty of announcing Mr. Seward's arrival. The consul met us at 
 the Piraeus, and h.is assiduously attended us during our stay in 
 Athens. On our return last night from an excursion to Eleusis, 
 we found a note from the chamberlain appointing eleven o'clock 
 this morning for an audience with Queen Olga in the absence of 
 the king, who is on a visit to Copenhagen. 
 
 The palace is entirely modern and European. The young queen 
 was gracious ; she is intelligent, pleasing, and beautiful. Speaking 
 English perfectly, she left nothing unsaid which she could have 
 said of her consideration for Mr. Seward, or of appreciation of his 
 visit to Greece. And she expressed herself as having no wish so 
 near her heart as that of seeing the United States — a nation whom 
 her father, the Grand-duke Constantine of Eussia, had taught her 
 to respect and admire. 
 
 Grecian ruins, seen so soon after our explorations of those of 
 Egypt and Ilindostan, suggest the reflection that in the early age 
 of Egypt human labor and means of subsistence, as well as materials 
 for building, were plentiful and cheap, while the edifices to be con- 
 structed were only temples and tombs. At the same time, the gov- 
 ernment was not merely absolute, but despotic. Art and science 
 had not been taxed to discover the smallest amount of materials or 
 labor with which an enduring structure could be built. Under 
 these circumstances, the Egyptian pyramid-, temples, and tombs, 
 were of great and even gigantic dimensions. The Phoenicians, tiie 
 Jews, and the Greeks, coming later, found the necessity for econ- 
 omy of labor and materials, while the greater independence of the 
 people obliged the governments to practise frugality, and to perfect 
 science adapted to that frugality. The Greeks, therefore, while 
 they gathered their models from Egypt, reduced their designs from 
 the colossal to the practical, and substituted, for massivencss, orna- 
 ment and beauty. Moreover, architecture and the arts of design, 
 in Egypt, were a priestly monopoly, and subject to exact rcgula- 
 
THE TEMPLE OF VICTORY. 
 
 
 complisbed United 
 arranged with the 
 , and bad left tlie 
 1, eliarged witli tbe 
 e consul met us at 
 during our stay in 
 xcursion to Eleusis, 
 iting eleven o'clock 
 a in the absence of 
 
 ^ The young queen 
 beautiful. Spealdng 
 rhicb she could have 
 of appreciation of his 
 as having no wish so 
 .t,tes-a nation whom 
 Russia, bad taught her 
 
 plorations of those of 
 that in the early age 
 ,ce, as well as materials 
 
 the edifices to be con- 
 the same time, the gov- 
 otic. Art and science 
 amount of materials or 
 •ould be built. Under 
 .. temples, and tombs 
 The Phcenicians, the 
 the necessity for econ- 
 ,er independence of the 
 Ifrngality, and to pertect 
 treebs, therefore, wlule 
 ,,ccd their designs troni 
 ^ for massivencss, orna- 
 'and the arts of design, 
 subject to exact rcgula- 
 
 tion — the people of Egypt had no share in thorn. In Greece, the 
 arts passed over from the government to the people, and became a 
 study, a pride, and a profit, in which all the citizens could share. 
 As it is apparent that Egypt never perfected the Grecian work, so 
 it is equally manifest that Greece could never have produced the 
 Pyramids, Karnak, or the Tombs of the Kings. Each was the proper 
 
 THE TKMPLE OF VICTORY, ATHENS. 
 
 work of a distinct stage of human civilization. Absurd as was the 
 mythology of . ncient Greece, it was, nevertheless, a cheerful and 
 hopeful religious system, while that of Egypt was a gloomy and 
 fearful superstition. Egyptiivn architectare and arts produced, and 
 were designed to produce, the impression of terror and awe ; they 
 gave, therefore, no scope for pleasing lines of beauty, for delicate 
 
G84 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 m 
 
 traces of art, or for tints and hues of coloring. Grecian arcliitcct- 
 ure, on the contrary, was as joyous as the Greek mytholo<xy. 
 How did it happen that the freedom and the power of ancient 
 Greece were so transient ? 
 
 It was due to the fact that Greece, being subdivided into small 
 states and islands, mutually jealous of each other, proved incapable 
 of maintaining one central national authority adequate to pro- 
 tection against dangers from without or security against revolu- 
 tion within. Greece had a free, intellectual, and enlightened peo- 
 ple. Their philosophers, orators, and statesmen, seem to have been 
 conscious of this, for they studied less the glory and grandeur of 
 the Greeks themselves than the universal advancement of man- 
 kind. For this they have their reward. Whatever the moderns 
 have, either of government, science, art, or literature, all confess 
 that it is traceable to the Greeks. Even Avhen we are extending tlio 
 domain of science, and demanding names for newly-discovered sub- 
 stances, powers, forces, and qualities, we turn unhesitatingly to the 
 full and expansive Greek language for a new technology. IIuw 
 little the ancient Greeks thought that, when we should have ac- 
 quired the power of compelling the lightning to transmit our 
 thoughts, ^c should be obliged to borrow from them the name of 
 the instrument of communication ! How little did they imagine 
 that, when we should acquire the power to comjiel the sun to ^)aint 
 for us, we should resort to them for the name of the newly -invented 
 instrument and art ! 
 
 Modern Greece is the Mexico of Europe— new, experimental, 
 and unreliable, requiring forbearance, patience, and protection; 
 but, having all these, its condition is hopeful. It has, at least, got 
 rid of Turkish despotism and Mohammedan superstition. Greece 
 will probably become greater, and its present monarchy may bo 
 regarded as what Lafayette proposed the government of Louis 
 Pliilippe should be — a monarchy surrounded with republican insti- 
 tutions, and an introduction to tlio republic itself. 
 
 Constantinople y Jane 29th. — This morning wc were in the Sea 
 of Marmora, surrounded by beautiful islands, and at eleven o'clock 
 
A SINGULAR RECEPTION. 
 
 085 
 
 Grecian arcliitect- 
 
 Greek iiiytliology. 
 
 3 power of ancient 
 
 Libdividcd into small 
 ter, proved incapable 
 ty adequate to pro- 
 irity against revolu- 
 ind enlightened peo- 
 in, seem to have been 
 ,ory and grandeur of 
 dvancement of nian- 
 liatever the moderns 
 literature, all confess 
 iwe are extending the 
 newly-discovered sub- 
 1 unhesitatingly to the 
 cw technology. Ilt>^v 
 a we should have ac- 
 ning to transmit our 
 ,m "them the name of 
 ttle did they imagine 
 [ompel the sun to plaint 
 of the newly-invented 
 
 ^e— new, experimental, 
 [ence, and protection; 
 jl. It has, at least, got 
 . superstition. Greece 
 lent monarchy may bo 
 government of Louis 
 with repubUcan insti- 
 litself. 
 
 ag wo were in the Sea 
 L^and at eleven o'clock 
 
 ^e rounded the base of the Seven Towers and beheld St. Sopliia'a 
 lofty dome, the old Seraglio, the new Imperial Palace, and, crossing 
 the mouth of the Golden Horn, anchored in the Bofoorus under 
 the crowded, towering shore of Pera. 
 
 We did what no invader could have done in the time of Bclisa- 
 rius, for we took Constantinople by surprise. Although Mr, Sew- 
 ard came as an invited guest of the Sultan, and although tiie 
 United States legation had corresponded with him in India and 
 Egypt about the time of his coming, neither crescent nor stars and 
 stripes from the shore answered the signal which waved from the 
 mast-head of the Wion. What could it mean { We lingered an 
 hour on the deck. A mythical person presented himself, speaking 
 very imperfect English, and informed us that apartments were, to 
 his certain knowledge, provided for us by the Government at the 
 Hotel d'Angletcrre. This information coincided with the letter 
 which Mr. Seward had received when in China from Dlacque Bey, 
 written by direction of the grand-vizier. Weary of the sea, and 
 impatient under a cold shower of the first rain we had experienced 
 since our arrival at Calcutta in March, we availed ourselves of the 
 captain's kindness, and went ashore in his gig. Landing, and clam- 
 bering over heaps of stones, we took shelter from the rain in an 
 open shed which served as a caj'e for the market men who thronged 
 the beach. Two rickety one-horse carriages were all that could he 
 found in which to make our entrance. We secured both. Leaving 
 one of them to the servants, we three passengers crowded ourselves 
 into the other. Wc had scarcely commenced our ascent, when we 
 collided with a timber-cart coming down the same steep, narrow 
 road. Extricating ourselves, we took the sidewalk, and proceeded 
 safelv enough until the overtaxed horse gave out, and we com- 
 pleted our journey on foot in the drizzling rain. 
 
 We reached the Hotel d'Angleterre unexpected guests. The 
 telegraph had announced that we would come to-morrow. But 
 the keeper of the hotel would <lo his best ; he was sure he was to 
 entertain us on behalf of the Porte, and he would endeavor to do 
 it as well as possible. It soon turned out that the reception which 
 had been arranged for Mr. Seward fell to those whom we bad left 
 
G8G 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 behind. The Minister of Foreign Affairs, informed of the United 
 States flag raised on the Wien, dispatched a guard of honor to the 
 wharf. The guard met the servants in their calash, with the hig- 
 gage on carts^ winding their way to the imperial custom-house. 
 The guard divided to the right and left, and, with due solemnity 
 and respect, escorted Jenny Corcll, Arthur Price, and William 
 Freeman, to the entrance of the Hotel d'Angleterre. Half an 
 hour afterward the grand-chamberlain, and the United States 
 charge cTqf aires, John P. Brown, and the United States marshal, 
 Mr. Thompson, arrived, and explanations were duly made. The 
 telegraph from Athens^ announcing that we had sailed, was without 
 date, and was not put on the wire until we were passing the Hel- 
 lespont. The apology oflercd was made the more soothing for us 
 by the statement of the lord-chamberlain that precisely the same 
 mistake occurred on the arrival of the Empress ilugenie last year. 
 The manner of the conire-iemjps was different in the two cases. In 
 that of the empress, the grand-vizier with his war-steamer went 
 out to meet the French imperial frigate on which she was coming. 
 But, unfortunately, the two vessels passed each other unobserved, 
 so that she was already at Constantinople while he was vainly look- 
 ing for her in the Sea of Marmo^'a. 
 
 " All's well," however, " that ends well ! " The Turkish Gov- 
 ernment had subsequently designated another, and as they thought 
 a finer hotel. But, Mr. Seward being content with the Hotel 
 d'Angletene, esi)ecially after learning that our host was the " Mvs- 
 seri " of Kinglake's " Eothen," we remain here. 
 
 The highest effect of Constantinople is produced by its tout en- 
 semUe. It has many different and noble aspects from various stand- 
 points, but in every case the whole is seen at once, and it is this 
 whole that constitutes the marvellous beauty of the city. 
 
 Jane ?y(Hh, — Why is it that the strongest curiosity of traveller.':, 
 even of republican travellers more than others, is to see princes^ 
 Whatever the rearon may be, this is not only a secret of the art of 
 history, but also of the dramatic art. Hamlet and Lear and Richard 
 are all the more interesting for being princes. 
 
SEEING THE SULTAN. 
 
 OS- 
 
 •mcd of the United 
 ird of honor to the 
 .lash, with the hig- 
 eriul ca&tom-hoype. 
 with due solemnity 
 Price, and William 
 igleterre. Half an 
 the United States 
 ited States marshal, 
 :e duly made. The 
 d sailed, was without 
 
 ire passing the Ilel- 
 nore soothing for us 
 tt precisely the same 
 ss i:ugenie last year. 
 in the two cases. lu 
 lis war-steamer wc.it 
 hich she was comiug. 
 ch other unobserved, 
 le he was vaiuly lool<- 
 
 " The Turkish Gov- 
 1-, and as they thought 
 tent with the Hotel 
 Ir host was the " My>- 
 
 •e. 
 
 mduced by its tout en- 
 [ts, from various stand- 
 it once, and it is this 
 I of the city. 
 
 Icuriosity of travellers, 
 ]crs, is to sec princes J 
 a secret of the art of 
 , and Lear and Richard 
 
 Although we had no reason to suppose that royalty here, more 
 than elsewhere, would couceal its visnge from us, yet an opportuuity 
 to see the Sultan Abdul-Aziz in a ]>agennt to-day, and perliajis on 
 no other day, was not, at least in the judgment of the younger 
 portion of our party, to be lost. Successor of the caliphs, the 
 Sultan is the spiritual us well as temporal head of Islam. In this 
 character he goes in public procession froui his palace at twelve 
 o'clock every Friday, either on horseback or in a barge, to oli'er 
 prayers for the faithful in one of the principal mosques. This cus- 
 tom is one of very ancient standing, and is mentioned by travellers 
 among the Turks as early as the tifteenth century, though it is \)voh- 
 ably even much older than that. It atlbrds an opportunity of see- 
 ino" the Sultan of which nearly all strangers avail themselves. We 
 found two imperial carriages awaitiug us at the door of our hotel, 
 and in them, accompanied by Mr. and Mrs. Brown, we were driven 
 into the street before the gate of the imperial residence. Our party 
 
 ALIIANUN COSTl'MK. 
 
 was not recognized among the many curious strangers whose car- 
 riages thronged the way, to witness the pageant, and we were 
 nearly an hour in finding a suitable stand. The ])alace clock had 
 
088 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 Bft't* 
 
 r 1 
 
 C. '1 i 
 
 \ m 
 
 H 
 
 been set Lack, and, an hour and a half after lii^h noon struck the 
 equivalent of twelve in Turkish time, Abdul-Aziz it-sued from the 
 jijatc, dressed in the magniticent costume which is equally the uni- 
 form of the civil and military service of Turkey, lie was mounted 
 on a noble white Arabian steed, caparisoned in gold and velvet, 
 A squadron oi' cavalry, Avith a sonorous flourish of trumpets, opened 
 the way, and another covered the rear. His majesty was attended 
 by all the ministers of the Porte on horseback, and surrounded by 
 a guard of Albanian officers on foot. These wore jackets, caps, and 
 gaiters, of maroon-velvet and gold, and full, spotless white skirts 
 reaching the knee — said to be the most exquisite costume in tho 
 M-orld. Their shiniug, silver cimeters and jiistols are worn in a 
 broad sash. The Sultan is a stout, well-formed man, forty-seven 
 years old, with a pleasing and amiable though not impressive coun- 
 tenance. His hair is slightly gray, and he is said to dislike the 
 national fez, Avhicli ho wears very small. He rides remarkably well, 
 like a soldier accustomed to the saddle. Ilis bland smile wheu 
 passing our carriages, whicli indeed he might have known by the 
 imperial livery to be his own, indicated to j\[r. Brown that he had 
 the honor of being personally recognized, although he failed In the 
 attempt to flatter Mr. Seward with the belief that he shared in that 
 honor. 
 
 Doing assured that the j^resence of Christians at the official ser- 
 vices of the rosquc would be popularly regarded as intrusive by the 
 Moslems, it only remained for us to leave the ground as soon as 
 the imperial pugeant had passed. We observed that not only the 
 ministers, but the military officers, and even our excellent friend 
 Mr. Drown, betrayed sentiments of awe and reverence during the 
 progress ; while, on the otlier hand, the people " of the baser sort," 
 Turks as they are, manifested neither sympathy with the proces- 
 sion, nor homage for the sovereign, but were as free and indift'ercnt 
 in their demeanor as a crowd of spectators at a military parade in 
 the United States. 
 
 Juhj \st. — Mr. Seward has had a busy day. He has exchanged 
 visits Avith Server Pacha, Minister of Foreign ATairs, and acting 
 
CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 <i8i) 
 
 liirh noon struck the 
 f\ziz issued from the 
 h is equally the uni- 
 y. lie was mounted 
 
 in gold and velvet. 
 1 of trumpets, opened 
 majesty was attended 
 k, and surrounded by 
 ^orc jackets, caps, and 
 
 spotless white skirts 
 nisite costume in tlio 
 ]Mstols are worn in a 
 med man, forty-seven 
 li not impressive coun- 
 is said to dislike the 
 rides remarkably well, 
 [lis bland smile when 
 lit have known by the 
 Sir. Brown that he had 
 ;houp;h he failed in the 
 f that he shared in that 
 
 Itians at the otficial ser- 
 •ded as intrusive by the 
 the ground as soon as 
 >rved that not only the 
 !n our excellent friend 
 [l reverence during the 
 
 ,le " of the baser sort," 
 Ipathy with the proces- 
 as free and indiftcrcnt 
 
 |at a military parade in 
 
 lay. He has exchanged 
 Ln AflPairs, and acting 
 
 grand-vizier, in the place of All Pacha, who, long resisting, has at 
 last succumbed under an illness which it is feared will be fatal ; also 
 with Kiamii Pacha, president of the Council of State; and the Min- 
 isters of Justice and Commerce, Cabruli Pacha and Mounetaz 
 Effendi. He was received by these functionaries at their several 
 offices in the Divan, and entertained there with very agreeable con- 
 versation, and the customary offerings of colfee and chibouque. The 
 conversation did not go, however, beyond expressions coinpliment- 
 ary to Mr. Seward, and highly appreciative of the United States. 
 He thought that Turkish politics, so deeply interwoven with those 
 of European powers, are probably reserved by the ministers for the 
 treatment of the great statesman, Ali Pacha. 
 
 The Divan is a large and spacious European structure, superior 
 to any public edifice of the same sort here, or to any that we have 
 seen throughout the East, though very inferior to the department 
 buildings at Washington. 
 
 By the courtesy of the Government, the necessary permits for 
 free access to the city and all its institutions and amusements were 
 sent to us this morning. It was amusing to see ihe care that was 
 taken in filling up the dates and inserting the names in these 
 printed forms ; a banker could hardly practise more care in draw- 
 ing bills of exchange to guard against perversion or counterfeiting. 
 We understand that permits to view the mosques, palaces, and mu- 
 seums lierc, are usually charged with a fee as a perquisite. 
 
 We have made several excursions around the citv. The survey 
 from without, at whatever point, produces the same impression, 
 that of unmixed admiration. It has been with us a profound study 
 to determine what it is that constitutes the peculif.r and surpassing 
 oll'cct of Constantinople as a great and magnificent seat of com- 
 merce and empire. Nature has invested the site with such advan- 
 tages in this respect as no other city enjoys. It is an isthmus, and 
 a narrow one at that, v/ith lofty and towering but graceful eleva- 
 tions, which divide two great seas, the Mediterranean and the 
 Eiixine, and two great continents, Europe and Asia, The seas 
 clasp hands between the continents, which smile upon each other 
 across the narrow strait of the fatnomloss. blue-rolling Pxtsporus. 
 
ri 
 
 CI 
 
 *1 
 
 
 1 
 
 
CONSTANTINOPLi:. 
 
 001 
 
 r 'Bi' 
 
 J 
 
 
 
 z 
 
 What would otherwise be a topographical monotony is broken by 
 the broad, deep, and winding channel of the Golden Horn, which 
 breaks the European coast into two not unequal parts, with banks 
 on either side as green and gently sloping as those of the JJosih>- 
 rus. Constantinople, not diminutive nor contracted, covers jilain, 
 valley, and hill, on either shore, as far as the eye can reach, Avith a 
 populous, majestic city. You take no notice of the political, mu- 
 nicipal, or geographical divisions of the city : though the portion 
 south of the Horn and west of the Bosporus is designated as the 
 ancient Byzantium, now Stamboul proper ; and the portion of the 
 city north of it and west of the Bosporus as Pera ; and the por- 
 tion which occupies the eastern bank is known as Scutari, the 
 ancient Chrysopolis— yet Stamboul, Pera, and Scutari, with what- 
 ever other municipalities or suburbs there may be, are merged 
 altogether, and make the one, great, noble city of Constantinople. 
 From whatever new point of view you look at the panorama, you 
 feel not the distant but the immediate presence of the two oceans 
 and of the two continents. Boston merely encircles a bay; Xew 
 York graces an iskind between two rivers ; London crowds both level 
 banks of a tame and turbid river ; Paris merely clusters, like Eome, 
 upon the banks of a narrow, tideless stream ; Amsterdam shuts out 
 the sea by dikes, making for itself an artificial site ; even Venice, 
 the " Queen of the Adriatic," takes refuge from it in a shallow, 
 marshy bay ; while Naples is content with occupying an amphithe- 
 atre, nobly beautiful indeed, but still a circular mountain-shore. 
 But Constantinople has the deep, great sea flowing, not only near 
 it but through it. The sea, elsewhere, is a thing of dread — the sea, 
 at Constantinople, is a highway of commerce, and a pleasure-lake. 
 Although dividing the city, it is not forced out by wharves, docks, 
 or piers, on either side. You may pass from the steainshir to 
 your dwelling-place on the greensward of your garden ; o - you 
 TJiay enter your frail caique and float in safety on the deep waters, 
 which at the same time are bearing by the most majestic ships that 
 man can build. So you may, from the same pleasnre-Doat, land on 
 either green shore of the Bosporus at the water's edge, or wind 
 youi way among the fleets riding at anchor in the Golden Horn. 
 
692 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 It is this peaceful contact of two continents, with the truce be- 
 tween an old and a new civilization in the Bosporus, and at the 
 same time a control of two seas, both relieved of their terrors, 
 while retaining always their placid beauty, that makes Constanti- 
 nople the most delightful place in the world. One other element 
 enters into the picture — the streets of Constantinople are narrow, 
 
 e: 
 
 CI 
 
 ANllKNT PILLAR AT CONSTANTINOPLE 
 
 most of the dwellings and shops are cheap and frail, yet these 
 blemishes are overlooked in the view of the ever-admired Oriental 
 
FOCNTAIX OF THE SERAGLIO. 
 
 3, witli the truce be- 
 osporus, and at the 
 ed of their terrors, 
 lat makes Constanti- 
 One other element 
 mtinople are narrow, 
 
 693 
 
 p and frail, yet these 
 ever-admired Oriental 
 
 city, witli tlie gleaminj,' towers, domes, and minarets, of its thou- 
 sand palaces and mosques, and a gorgeous golden sunlight c 
 
 con- 
 
 (i. -"=^^=*-:"^~"*=S-:»5Sir^- 
 
 FODNTAIN OF THE 8ERAGL10. 
 
 ^LiU;^. 
 
 trasting with the sparkling blue sea, the dark cypress-groves of 
 Scutari, and, in the distance, the bright islands of the Marmora, 
 and the snowy peak of Olympus, It is the harmony of each part 
 with the whole which constitutes the nameless beauty of the scene. 
 It is the presence, not of waters diminutive as rivers, nor of emi- 
 nences diminutive as hills, but of seas and mountains — not of the 
 seas and mountains of one country, but of the seas and mountains 
 of two vast and diverse continents. 
 
 Jalij Zd. — The palace of Solyman the Magnificent, seated so 
 gracefully on the promontory which divides the Golden Horn from 
 the Bosporus, was the chief court residence of the Sultan until 
 seventy or eighty years ago. Now, under the name of the " Old 
 Seraglio," this groat pile has been converted into a storehouse, in 
 which are deposited the regalia, ornaments, plate, and objects of 
 vertu, gathered by the crown since the time of the caliphs. The 
 
 '5 
 
2; 
 
 hi 
 
 IE. ' M 
 
 ^^i 
 
FOURTH OF JULY. 
 
 C95 
 
 collection is curious. TIum-c are crowns, thrones, urns, vases, table 
 furniture and ornaments, plate, clocks, watches, jewelry, and jire- 
 cious stones, all of costliest material and most elaborate workman- 
 ship, placed in cases, apparently without arran_<,'ement or dcsi<5- 
 nation of date or history— a treasure which Midas might covet, 
 although it is practically useless. It was only as an act of special 
 grace that we were admitted to the alcoves which contained the 
 rich library and manuscripts belonging to the Government. They 
 are watched with the utmost care, since the Government tliinks it 
 has had reason to believe that some foreign states have tried by 
 indirect means to abstract some of them. 
 
 July ith. — Although the celebration of our national indepen- 
 dence has come to bo regarded as a commoni)laco allair at home, it 
 is an enjoyment which citizens of the United States cannot forego 
 without reluctance when abroad. 
 
 We repaired this morning, in accordance with an invitation, to 
 Robert College, an American university for the education of Turk- 
 ish youths, founded by the liberality of Christo]!her II. Robert, of 
 New York. Twelve years ago the Turkish Government conceded 
 the site, which is the most commanding one on the Bosporus. 
 But Mussulman jealousies caused delay in confirming the conces- 
 sion. A long and sometimes unpleasant discussion, which occurred 
 on the subject between the two Governments, was happily brought 
 to an end during the closing year of Mr. Seward's official term in 
 the Department of State. 
 
 The firman having been issued, two years sufficed for building 
 an edifice adequate to the accommodation of one hundred and 
 fifty students. Dr. Handin, who has had sole charge of the enter- 
 prise, is president, with a faculty of eleven professors, and already 
 there arc one hundred and twenty-five students. The Fourth of 
 July was chosen by President Hamlin to commemorate the com- 
 pletion of this important work with due acknowledgments to the 
 Government of the United States and the Government of Turkey 
 for their favor and patronage. Mr. Seward's arrival at this junc- 
 ture and Blacque Bey's presence at Constantinople were regarded 
 
690 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 c: 
 
 5^ 
 
 
 1 
 
 IS. 
 
 r 
 t • 
 
 
 5ft 
 
 as fortunate coincidences of the celebi-ntion. After a long drive by 
 the side of the Ijosporus and over its eminences, we espied the 
 United States flag waving from the college. The president, faculty, 
 and students, with the United States citizens residing at Constan- 
 tinople, received Mr. Seward, and, having been severally presented 
 to him on the veranda, attended him in procession to the recep- 
 tion-hall. A dinner, provided by the American residents, was 
 served — the iirst public entertainment of the kind ever known on 
 the shores of the Bosporus. And so the ivy-crowned, castellated 
 towers near by, which, in 1453, forty years before the discovery of 
 America, poured forth the invading army Avho subverted Chris- 
 tianity in the empire and established Moslem despotism in Stam- 
 boul, now were witnesses of the celebration of an event which is a 
 sure giMrantee of religious as well as political regeneration of so- 
 cietv thronjjhout the world. 
 
 Dr. Hamlin presided at one of the two tables, which was deco- 
 rated with the stars and stripes ; while Blacque Bey, by the leave 
 and with the instruction of the Divan, presided at the other under 
 a canopy formed by the crescent flag of the Turkish Empire. The 
 guests were Americans, with their families ; Turks, of course, with- 
 out theirs ; and the body of students, among whom were repre- 
 sentatives from every province in the empire, as well as from Per- 
 sia, Greece, and the islands of the Levant. 
 
 Dr. Hamlin closed a spirited oration with congratulations to 
 Mr. Seward on his arrival in Constnntinople, and thanks for the 
 interest in the college which he had manifested. Mr. Seward an- 
 swered in a manner which seemed to awaken deep sensibility 
 among his own countrymen, while the natives of the East listened 
 with surprise and pleasure to a free exercise of speech for the first 
 time in their lives. 
 
 Blacque Bey and Mr. Brown followed with speeches which were 
 pleasing and appropriate in their allusions to Mr. Seward, Bobcrt 
 College, and the relations between Turkey and the United States. 
 "When the exercises closed, the assemblage attended Mr. Seward 
 to his carriage, and parted from him with cheers for himselt, for 
 the Union, for the Turkish Empire, and for Robert College. 
 
THE BOSPORUS. 
 
 697 
 
 fter a long drive by 
 nces, we espied the 
 le president, faculty, 
 residing at Constan- 
 L severally presented 
 assion to the rccep- 
 •ican residents, was 
 and ever known on 
 -crowned, castellated 
 fore the discovery of 
 ■ho subverted Chris- 
 a despotism in Stam- 
 [ an event which is a 
 1 regeneration of so- 
 
 ibles, which was deco- 
 [ue Bey, by the leave 
 ed at the other under 
 :urldsh Empire. The 
 urhs, of course, with- 
 in- whom were reprc- 
 , as well as from Per- 
 th congratulations to 
 and thanlcs for the 
 tted. Mr. Seward an- 
 iken deep sensibility 
 les of the East listened 
 of speech for the tirst 
 
 Ih speeches which were 
 lo Mr. Seward, Eobcrt 
 Imd the United States. 
 attended Mr. Seward 
 L'heers for himself, for 
 Robert College. 
 
 Juhj 5i!/i.— The Minister of the Navy, Malimoud Pacha, sent a 
 steamer this morning for the excursion on the Bosporus, iiuiispen- 
 sablc to a true knowledge of Constantinople. Wo displayed the 
 United States flag by the side of the red banner of the Turks. 
 
 The Bosporus is a channel, which, taking no note of municipal 
 divisions, traverses the entire length of the capital ; but such a 
 channel as no human hands could make. AMiile it is tidoless, it 
 
 TDBICISU WOMAM 1:4 8TBEET DRESS. 
 
 nevertheless has the breadth of the East River at New York, and 
 a depth practically i^nfathomablc. Its wateri5, from the Black Sea 
 to the Sea of Marmora, have a current averaging two or three miles 
 an hour, but increased at some points to four miles by jutting 
 promontories or converging shores. The city an<l suburbs are 
 spread, though not equally, over the two lofty and gently-rising 
 banks, and a hostile shipot-wai' moving through the GoMen ITorn 
 
698 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 c: 
 
 Krul 
 
 -^ 
 
 and the Bosporus could shell and destroy not only every warehouse 
 on the bank, but every palace, mosque, and villa, in the entire city. 
 The Government has a high appreciation of the Bosporus as an or- 
 nament of the capital. It carefully prohibits the use of its shores 
 for offensive trades, avocations, or manufactories, and they are, con- 
 sequently, embellished with the finest public institutions, palaces, 
 and villas. Every man of the wealthier class, besides his winter 
 dwelling in Stamboul, Pera, or Scutari, has his villa and wherry on 
 the verdant bank of the Bosporus, and steps from his porch to his 
 barge, while his garden hangs on the hill-side. All the foreign 
 ministers and consuls have their villas here, and, in ascending the 
 Bosporus, we received the salute of many national flags. 
 
 In Japan all the women whom the traveller sees, aside from the 
 music-girls, are repulsive. In China the women seen are painted 
 and distorted ; in India, woman seems to have no existence at all ; 
 in Egypt and Syria, if she appears in public, she is hideously veiled. 
 Until lately, it was so in Constantinople. "VVe have met to-day 
 many groups of Circassian women listlessly reclining in their gayly- 
 cnshioned, canopied caiques, on the Bosporus, as we have met 
 them before in our walks and drives on shore. They seem greatly 
 to enjoy this freedom, and are often accompanied by musicians 
 imder the surveillance of the inevitable eunuchs. These women 
 are richly dressed, in habits of brightly-colored silk which approxi- 
 mate to the European costume, and their thin white veils, which 
 cover their faces, leave exposed, with bewitching efff -t, eyes and 
 eyebrows, the latter delicately painted. We have passed a thou- 
 sand harems on our voyage to-day, and if any woman looked upon 
 us she would only have done so through the close lattice of lu r 
 balcony. Verily, the Mohammedan is a " comfortable doctrine " 
 for the stronger sex. For, M'hile women are thus carefully secluded, 
 every piazza and window on either side of the Bosporus is filled 
 with Turks in groups, in pairs, and single, sitting cross-legged or 
 lounging on divans, surveying the passers-by through fumes of 
 chibouque or hookah, and over uncounted glasses of sherbet. 
 
 After this excursion we can no longer wonder at the cautious 
 jealousy with which the Ottoman Forte insists upon holding the 
 
A TURKISH GIRL. 
 
 (509 
 
 ly every warehouse 
 ,, in the entire city. 
 Bosporus as an or- 
 le use of its shores 
 i, and they are, con- 
 nstitutions, palaces, 
 besides his winter 
 villa and wherry on 
 rom his porch to his 
 [e. All the foreign 
 id, in ascending the 
 onal flags. 
 
 • sees, aside from the 
 en seen are painted 
 } no existence at all ; 
 le is hideously veiled. 
 ^Ve have met to-day 
 dining in their gayly- 
 as, as we have met 
 They seem greatly 
 panied by musicians 
 .chs. These women 
 Id silk which approxi- 
 jin white veils, which 
 aUng cflV t, eyes and 
 have pas&ed a thou- 
 woman looked upon 
 close lattice of lur 
 imfortable doctrine" 
 lis carefully secluded, 
 ihc Bosporus is filled 
 tting cross-legged or 
 through f\imcs of 
 ises of sherbet, 
 jnder at the cautious 
 its upon holding tlio 
 
 Bosporus as a closed sea. Unlike any other strait of the world, 
 the Bosporus, Avith its termini iu the Sea of Marmora and the 
 Black Sea, would open to all nations, rivals or enemies as well as 
 
 '!;:i!a:|!!;i 
 
 IHi,!.! 
 
 •:1,^i.i^'■||^.:,^i■^k4::'■!'w^ 
 
 ■,ii 1 1 1' '''I'if 'ii'i'ii'i'i '"^■■< '" ' ■ 
 
 'ihMi-i. 
 
 >l^:.||l| 
 
 TURKISa GIRL IN A UARbM. 
 
 friends, a navigation not only through the very heart of the capital, 
 but through the very heart of the empire. 
 
 The Bosporus, therefore, while it is an ornament, is a constant 
 peril, and a constraint upon the national independence. Nor is it 
 to be supposed that the Ottoman Government fails to understand 
 that its political and religious institutions, customs, and manners, 
 encounter the prejudices of all the Christian nations, and that the 
 chief security for peace with each lies in the ineradicable ambitions 
 of the great states of Europe. 
 
 The banks of the Bosporus are not without the appearance of 
 military detbnjes, which, however, seem wellnigh worn to pieces 
 
700 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 c: 
 ss 
 
 < 
 m 
 
 CI 
 
 n 
 
 •►J 
 
 c...;i 
 I , 
 
 Ml. a 
 
 with age. The shores, as you approach the Black Sea, present a 
 succession of barracks and encampments well filled with soldiers. 
 The chief protection of the passage consists of a navy of twenty 
 iron-clad steam-frigates, all of which are kept constantly in com- 
 mission. Besides these the Government has in its employ a very 
 intelligent American engineer of the late Confederate Army of the 
 United States, who is providing the harbor at all points with tor- 
 pedoes. By-the-way, the occasion of our first acquaintance with 
 this gentleman has afforded us much amusement. AVhile we were 
 waiting at the :i: vy-yard this morning, for our steamer, and Mr. 
 Seward was in conversation with the admiral in command, an 
 ofiicer in Turkish nniform stood near whom we recognized as an 
 American, despite his fez and laced coat. Approaching, at Mr. 
 Seward's request, the ofiicer s d that he was pleased to have an 
 introduction to him, but had not ventured to pay his I'cspccts to 
 him on account of political associations at home. Pie remarked 
 that the last time he had had the pleasure of seeing Mr. Seward 
 was when he himself was attending the Confederate " peace com- 
 missioners," Hunter, Stephens, and Campbell, in the conference at 
 Hampton Eoads, with President Lincoln and his Secretary of State. 
 Mr. Seward laughingly said that he inferred, from the captain's 
 present employment, that he might have been engaged in blowing 
 up the United States commissary storehouse at City Point. The 
 handsome Southerner owned to the '• soft impeachment," but lie 
 protested that he had nothing to do with the shelling, from " Hovv- 
 lett House Battery," of the River Queen, which was conveying 
 Mr. Seward, with General Grant and General Butler, to the signal- 
 tower and Dutch Gap Canal. 
 
 Juhj !}fh. — Sl¥>oting almost directly across the Bosporus, we en- 
 tered a paved court just above the level of the sea, and fiora it the 
 majestic gate of another palace. This edifice has just now been 
 finished, and has not yet been occupied. It is known as the "New 
 Palace." The Turkish architect, educated in Europe, attended us, 
 and furnished us with photographs of every part of the buildinp:. 
 The style is a successful combination of the Greek with the aia- 
 
THE TCRKISIl CABINET. 
 
 701 
 
 lack Sea, present a 
 filled witli soldiers, 
 a navy of twenty 
 constantly in com- 
 1 its employ a very 
 ideratc Aniiy of the 
 all points witli tor- 
 b acquaintance with 
 nt. While we were 
 iir steamer, and Mr. 
 ral in command, an 
 ,ve recognized as an 
 Approaching, at Mr. 
 3 pleased to have an 
 pay his respects to 
 lome. He remarked 
 )f seeing Mr. Seward 
 ifcderate " peace com- 
 l, in the conference at 
 lis Secretary of State, 
 d, from the captain's 
 n engaged in blowing 
 at City Point. The 
 npcachment," but he 
 shelling, from " Hovv- 
 which was conveying 
 I Butler, to the signal- 
 
 3 the Bosporus, we cn- 
 lic sea, and from it the 
 \cc has just now hcon 
 is known as the" Kcw 
 
 Europe, attended us, 
 part of the buildin;^. 
 Greek with the ara- 
 
 besque architecture and ornamentation of tho Alharabra. We 
 doubt if there is even in Europe a palatial residence so extensive 
 and magnificent. Like the marble court of the Great Mogul, with 
 its " peacock throne " and roof of silver, this new palace cannot 
 fail to impress the visitor with a sense of the despotic authority and 
 unrestrained luxury of its possessor. A fine feature of i.he New 
 Palace is its immense, central, circular audience-chamber, which is 
 so arranged that the occupant, looking through corridors at right 
 angles with each other, has an outer prospect on each of the four 
 sides of the palace, and yet the arrangement is such that these 
 corridors neither cut otF access to any of the chambers, drawing- 
 rooms, or other apartments, nor in the least interfere with their 
 proper use. After here partaking of a sumptuous breakfast, we 
 resumed our yacht, and returned to the hotel. 
 
 Juhj Sth. — ]\rr. Seward returned to-day the visits of the several 
 members of the cabinet. They seemed to set a high value on their 
 iron-clad and torpedo defences, and expressed much desire that Mr. 
 Seward should see thoni. In their conversation on foreign topics, 
 they spoke of Franr^e and England as the remotest points in their 
 political horizon, and t>f the United States as being inaccessible 
 beyond it. The United States to them are simply a wonder ; they 
 wish to know by wliat process it was that a nation so new had 
 grown to such a stature. Just beginning, as they are, to think of 
 building railroads, they are amazed when told that the United 
 States have already built fifty-five thousanrl miles of railroad, and 
 that they add annually five thousand more. 
 
 Mr. Seward found here, as throughout the East, a comple' c con- 
 viction on the part of the cabinet that, whatever else the United 
 States can do, they arc incapable of practising injustice toward 
 foreign nations. 
 
 Jult/ IQth. — Soon after we arrived here, Mr. Seward was in- 
 formed that he would be received by the Sultan on a day to be 
 appointed, and that on another day he would be entertained by 
 Kiamil Pacln., president of the Council of State. On Saturday, 
 
702 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 
 
 CI 
 
 I ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 tlic 8tli, came tlic invitation to breakfost with Kianiil Pacha at 
 c'even o'clock to-day at his palace high up the Bosi>orus. It was 
 announced that Mr. Seward, with a party of gentlemen, would be 
 entertained by Kiamil Pacha, and that the ladies would be similarly 
 entertained in the harem. The invitation was, of course, accepted. 
 On Sunday, at noon, came Mr. Brown, our charge d'affaires, bearing 
 a conniiunication from the Sultan, inviting Mr. Seward to an au- 
 dience at his palace, down the Bosporus, at two o'clock to-day. It 
 was seen at once that the two appointments might conflict, but it is 
 the usage of courts that a sovereign's request is imperative ; and so 
 the Sultan's invitation was also accepted, but under the expectation 
 that Kiamil Pacha's Avould be withdrawn. This, however, did not 
 happen ; so there seemed nothing left for us to-day but to endeavor 
 to fultil both engagements. The ladies, having learned at Cairo 
 the customs of the harem, had prepared toilets which they hoped 
 would make them presentable at the breakfast, Kiamil Pacha being 
 one of the wealthiest men of the empire, and now, during the re- 
 tirement of Ali Pacha, prime-minister, and his wife being the sister 
 of the Khedive of Egypt. Taking the well-manned, graceful 
 cdiine of the United States legation, accompanied by lilacqne Bey 
 with Mr. and Mrs. Brown, at ten o'clock, and rowing hard against 
 the current, we arrived at the grand staircase of the villa of Kiamil 
 Pacha at eleven o'clocli . On entering the grand salon, it was a sur- 
 prise that neither Kiamil Pacha, nor any other pacha, nor cfl'endi, 
 nor any other person, appeared to receive us. Blacque Bey went 
 to explore, and returned, telling us that Kiamil Pacha was wait- 
 ing in an adjoining apartment to conduct the ladies to the harcui. 
 They : olio wed Blacque Bey through a large antechamber, and then 
 through a long corridor, at the foot of Avhich he presented them to 
 Kiamil Pacha, a man about sixty, of commanding presence, M'ith 
 piercing black eyes, white hair, and long, pointed beard and mus- 
 tache, lie was dressed in a flowini; dressing-gown of rich white 
 silk, and yellow Turkish slippers. He apologized for being oi dcs- 
 kahiUe, wliich, indeed, seouicd to us rather extraordinary. He now 
 cjilled a deformed Nubian, and, after some explanations iti Turkish, 
 unintelligible to us, this black custodian hobbled away, and re- 
 
A COOL RECEPTION. 
 
 ro3 
 
 Kiamil Pacha at 
 Bosporus. It was 
 itleincn, would 1)C 
 would be similarly 
 of course, accepted. 
 [.' d'affaires, bearing 
 Seward to an au- 
 o' clock to-day. It 
 rlit conflict, but it is 
 imperative ; and so 
 ider tbe expectation 
 Is, however, did not 
 day but to endeavor 
 ig learned at Cairo 
 ts which they hoped 
 Iviamil Pacha being 
 now, during the re- 
 wite being the sister 
 sU-manned, graceful 
 iiied by Blacque Bey 
 rowing hard against 
 •f the villa of Iviamil 
 [id6a?o«,itwasasur- 
 pacha, nor effendi, 
 Blacquc Bey went 
 ;nil Pacha was wait- 
 ladies to the harem, 
 jtechamber, and then 
 le presented them to 
 ding presence, with 
 ted beard and mus- 
 gown of rich white 
 [zed for being en dls- 
 laordinary. He now 
 llanations in Turkish, 
 ibled away, and re- 
 
 turned with two Avhite slave-girls. New explanations having been 
 given to the slaves, they in their turn disappeared for a time, and 
 then came back with two more. Kiamil Pacha now retired. The 
 Nubian led the way, and the ladies, attended by the four slave- 
 women, were ushered into a large, pleasant room, furnished in the 
 Oriental manner— that is, with luxurious divans along its sides, and 
 low, downy cushions of yellow damask ; bright Persian rugs on 
 the floor, lace curtains at the windows, and a table in the centre of 
 the room, covered v.'ith porcelain and glass vases and other orna- 
 ments, but no books, music, pictures, or statuary, vrere to be seen. 
 Fifteen minutes had elapsed when a lady entered, accompanied by 
 six slave-girls. She was quite 2)etife, perhaps forty-five years old, 
 and was dressed in a simple white-muslin gown, with a single band 
 of blue tulle on her head, fastened with an enormous sapphire, the 
 only ornament she wore. Acknowledging the presence of her 
 guests only by a distant inclination of the head, she seated herself 
 on a divan, drawing her slippered feet under her, and embracing 
 her white poodle-dog. She spoke not, and seemed absorbed in 
 scanning, with no happy expression, the elaborate toilets of her 
 morning visitors. They, of course, said nothing, for the lady- 
 princess had not condescended to announce herself, or to be an- 
 nounced by eunuch or slave. Mrs. Brown speaks Turkish fluently, 
 but her attempts to win the hostess into conversation were fruitless, 
 and there was " silence " in the harem for half the time that St. 
 John at Patmos marked the period of " silence in heaven." But it 
 was an ominous silence. The princess then proceeded to intcrro- 
 irate her Occidental visitors after the foshion of the Orient : " How 
 old are you ? " " Have you any brothers or sisters ? " "• IIow 
 many ? " " How old are they ? " " Where do you come from ? " 
 Then, with great surprise : " Why do you come so far from home ; 
 liow can you fatigue yourselves so much ? " " Why do you not 
 stop and rest?" And, finally, as if giving utterance to the dis- 
 pleasure too long suppressed : " Whij did you come here in such a 
 hurry this morning, and give us no time to dress ? " 
 
 This conversation was only interrupted by puffs of smoke from 
 cigarettes, which were successively served to her from a jewelled 
 
704 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 
 
 ^^1 
 
 t ^ 
 
 I 
 
 
 case by a Circassian slave-girl. Encouraged by her freedom, the 
 visitors essayed speech in their turn. They said, "We understood 
 that we )iad the honor ot being expected here this morning ; " to 
 which tlie princess replied, "I know nothing about it." The 
 ladies expressed their regret, but said the gentlemen must have 
 made some mistake. She again replied, " I know nothing about 
 it." Turning this extraordinary conversation, the visitors asked : 
 
 " How do you amuse yourself? " 
 
 " I look at the Bosporus, and smoke." 
 
 " What is the name of your pretty dog ? " 
 
 " He has no name." 
 
 " How do you call him ? " 
 
 " I say, ' Dog.' " 
 
 Chibouques, coHee, and sweetmeats, being now served, conver- 
 sation ended, and the ladies were invited to examine the furniture 
 «nd ornaments around them. During this time two other Turkish 
 ladies entered and joined the princess on the divan, while the 
 number of slave-girls increased to fifty — many of them very pretty 
 and interesting, by their gentle ways. The princess commanded 
 one of the girls to sing. She seated herself on the floor and exe- 
 cuted a plaintive recitative, accompanying herself with a lute, the 
 strings of which she struck with a tortoise-shell wand. It was 
 wliispered to the visitors that the two Turkish ladies were guests 
 of the Princess Iviamil ; and when, after what seemed an hour, 
 Kiamil Pacha was heard approaching the apartment, they hid 
 themselves behind the curtains with some confusion and precipi- 
 tation. The princess now rose and extended her beautiful little 
 hands to her guests, to be kissed, and the foreign ladies t'-,ok their 
 leave, and, joining Kiamil Pacha, now completely arrayed in his 
 official dress, returned with him to the salon, where they found ]\Ii'. 
 Seward and the other gentlemen awaiting the.n. 
 
 During the absence of the ladies, Kiamil Pacha had explained 
 to Mr. Seward the contre-femps which had occurred. Server Pa- 
 cha, the Minister of Foreign Affairs, on receiving the Siiltairs 
 command that Mr. Seward should be presented to-day, had as- 
 sumed that that gentleman would be unable to keep his engage- 
 
A TURKISH BREAKFAST. 
 
 705 
 
 her freedom, the 
 " "SVc understood 
 ills morning;" to 
 about it." The 
 itlemen must have 
 now nothing about 
 he visitors aslted : 
 
 now served, conver- 
 aminc the furniture 
 le two otber Turldsh 
 :he divan, while the 
 r of them very pretty 
 princess commanded 
 on the floor and exe- 
 jrself with a bite, the 
 •shell wand. It was 
 ish ladies were guests 
 lint Beemed an hour, 
 npartment, they hid 
 nifusion and prccipi- 
 :d her beautiful little 
 •cign ladies t'-,uh their 
 [letdy arrayed in his 
 rherc they found ^h: 
 
 !.n. 
 Pacha had explained 
 
 ^ccnrred. Server Pa- 
 
 .ceiving the Saltan's 
 
 ■nted to-day, had as- 
 
 to heep his engage- 
 
 ment for the morning with Kiamil Pacha, and had given notice to 
 Kiamil Pacha to that effect, but had omitted to inform Mr. Seward. 
 So it turned out that while, with sharpened appetites and i)ressed 
 for time, wo were wondering wliy we had no breakfast, Kiamil Pa- 
 cha and his wife were equally woi'dering that we had come there 
 for one. A breakfast did come, however. In the acting-premier's 
 palace, Asiatic forms and customs are confined to the harem. He 
 vigorously extemporized a party, consisting of three European 
 ministers and several secretaries. The entertainment was served 
 in a spacious room gorgeously furnished, the windows of which 
 open on apparently illimitable gardens, fountains, and grottos. 
 The conversation was free and spirited, and was cluclly on Euro- 
 pean public questions, always with kind and appreciative alhisions 
 to the United States. Once it took the turn of converting Englibh 
 and Spanish proverbs into Oriental forms a. d idioms, which exag- 
 gerate compliments, with a decided loss of terseness of exitression. 
 Kiamil Pacha was vivacious and courteous. lie asked Mr. 
 Seward what salary he received as Secretary of State. Mr. Sew- 
 ard having answered eight thousand dollars, in coin or currency, 
 as the case might be, the announcement of a sum so small was re- 
 ceived with laughter and surprise. He then ventured to ask Kia- 
 mil Pacha, not what his salary as head of the ministry is, but what 
 are his official expenses. The minister answered, giving a sum in 
 piasters which exceeds our power of arithmetical expression, but 
 which is the equivalent of thirty thousand dollars per month. Mr. 
 Seward rejoined that old countries are the ones for ministers of 
 state, bishops, and muftis. 
 
 The breakfast was served d la foiwchctte, and consisted of sev- 
 eral delicious courses of French and native dishes, which were cut 
 off in the midst by an abrupt call for the jnllau, the Turkish native 
 dish which invariably crowns and ends a feast. 
 
 At half-past one, Mr. Seward, attended by Blacque Bey and 
 Mr. Brown, landed at the wharf of the Imperial Palace. After 
 waiting, in the office of a secretary, until the appointed hour, they 
 proceeded, through the garden in front of the palace, to the grand 
 entrance. Here Blacque Bey turned av/ay, and the secretary con- 
 
700 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 c 
 
 < 
 
 m. 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 pi 
 
 t^ 
 
 ducted Mr. Seward and Mr. Brown tlirongh a ]on«^ series of ante- 
 chambers until they reached a small apartment plainly furnished. 
 The Sultan was seen standing near the centre ot it. The secretary 
 obsequiously kneeled, and remained in that position, Mr. Seward 
 and Mr. Brown standing. Without making or waiting for a salu- 
 tation, the Sultan pointed to chairs and invited the guests to sit ; 
 then, drawing another chair, he sat down at Mr. Seward's side. 
 The secretary now rose to assume the office of interpreter. His 
 Majesty made the usual inquiries concerning Mr. Seward's healtli, 
 the time he had been abroad, and the countries in which he had 
 travelled. He made no allusion to India or Egypt, but asked many 
 curious questions concerning Japan and China — their condition, 
 political state, and prospects. Then he expressed much gratifica- 
 tion with Mr. Seward's visit to Turkey, and a hope that his stay in 
 Constantinople had been made comfortable and agreeable to him. 
 Mr. Seward thanked him for the marks of consideration with which 
 he had been honored from the time of his arrival in the Turkish 
 dominions, and for the hospitality and courtesy of which he hud 
 been the recipient at the capital. 
 
 The Sultan replied that these attentions were justly due to him, 
 as an eminent man of a great nation. 
 
 Mr. Seward said that "the late civil and severe war in the Uni- 
 ted States had tried the forbearance and fidelity of foreign friends 
 and allies ; that Turkey had been first and foremost of all in that 
 great trial, and that her faithful friendship was appreciated by his 
 Government and countrymen." 
 
 The Sultan said : " It is the desire of Turkey to be at peace Avith 
 all the "Western nations, and she takes pleasure in acknowledginj,' 
 the prosperity, greatness, and increasing influence of the United 
 States, which has always been a just nation." The Sultan con- 
 tinued these remarks, saying that Turkey is behind Western na- 
 tions in social progress, but that he hoped Mr. Seward had discov- 
 ered, since coming here, that he (the Sultan) is making decisive 
 efforts to advance the country in that direction. 
 
 Mr. Seward said : " I need not have come here to see this, but 
 I am grateful, since I have come, to find my previous information 
 
A SEA-SICK SULTAN. 
 
 TOT 
 
 ijr series of ante- 
 plainly furnibliod. 
 t. Tlic secretary 
 ition, Mr. Seward 
 waiting tor a salu- 
 tbe guests to sit ; 
 Ir. Seward's side. 
 ■ interpreter. His 
 r. Seward's health, 
 s in whieli he had 
 pt, but asked many 
 a— their condition, 
 sed much gratifiea- 
 lope that his stay in 
 
 Ld agreeable to him. 
 idcrltion with which 
 
 •ival in the Turhi^^h 
 3sy of which he had 
 
 .re justly due to him, 
 
 Were war in the Ani- 
 lity of foreign friends 
 Iremost of all in that 
 IS appreciated by his 
 
 L to be at peace with 
 Le in acknowledging 
 luence of the United 
 " The Sultan con- 
 ' behind Western na- 
 .. Seward had discov- 
 
 f) is making decisive 
 
 here to sec this, hut 
 previous information 
 
 confirmed. You have established law and order, with entire lib- 
 erty of conscience, throughout llie empire. I have seen two rail- 
 roads, and travelled on them. 1 sec new roads and improvements 
 going on everywhere in Constantin()[)lL'." 
 
 Mr. Sewaril's assurances of rdac(pie liey's success in conducting 
 very difficult and delicate atlairs at AVashington evidently gave 
 the Sultan much satisfaction. 
 
 Ilis Majesty spoke with so much interest concerning our coun- 
 try, that Mr. Seward asked whether, in case he should again go to 
 the "West, he would not think it worth his while to extend his jour- 
 ney to the United States. 
 
 The Sultan, shaking his head, answered with a smile, that the 
 German Ocean made him so sick, that he determined never to go 
 to sea again. 
 
 Mr. Seward replied, "The Atlantic is certainly not so gentle as 
 some of the seas, but the German Ocean Is the worst of them all." 
 
 The Sultan showed an accurate knowledge of Mr. Seward's 
 occupations in the capital from the moment of his arrival, and drew 
 from him, by polite interrogatories, the impressions he had received 
 concerning the iron-dads, arsenals, navy-yards, barracks, hospitals, 
 and especially the new palace, which we visited yesterday. At 
 times, when a pause occurred, the Sultan, turning Ids eyes toward 
 the Bosporus, would call up some new topic, and so the audience 
 was protracted for an hour. It closed with expressions of good 
 wishes for Mr. Seward's health, and the safe and happy prosecution 
 of his voyage, which is to be resumed to-morrow. 
 
 Blach Sea^ Juhj Wth. — ^William J. McAlpine, a distinguished 
 American engineer, and an old friend, with his family, met us at 
 Constantinople, and is accompanying us on our voyage as far as 
 Orsova, on the Danube. Our last view of Constantinople was from 
 the deck of an Australian Lloyd's steamer on the Bosporus. 
 
 "VVe miijht count the number of flags Avhich waved us farewell 
 from the balconies of Robert College, but not the number of boyish 
 voices which greeted us with parting cheers. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 HUNGARY AND AUISTRIA. 
 
 On the Danube. — Varna.— IJustdmk. — Wallachia.— German Travellers. — What shall 
 we say of Turkey ?—Rellcction8 on the Fiiure of the Turks.— Orsova.—Tiie lion 
 Gate. — llungarian Loyalty. — Huda-Pcsth. — Contrast of European anJ Asiatie Civil- 
 ization. — The People of Peslli.— The Bridge of Duila. — The Buildings of Buda.— 
 The History of Hungary. — Tuc Danube.— Vienna.— John Jay.— Count Von Beust.— 
 Polities of Austria. 
 
 El 
 
 ? * 
 U 
 
 On the Damihe, Juhj Vlth. — "We awoke this morning in the 
 harbor of Varna, one ot* the seaports of Turkey in Europe, and the 
 capital of Iloumelia. The town acquired great importance IVoni 
 being the principal scene of Omar Pacha's military and naval 
 operations in the Crimean War. It has since that time, however, 
 acquired greater importance of another kind. The Danube, ap- 
 proaching the Black Sea, takes a northeasterly direction, dividing its 
 Hood into three channels. The mouths of these channels arc nnuh 
 obstructed, while their navigation is long and tortuous. British 
 capitalists have supplied the means with which a railroad has been 
 constructed from Yarna, one hundred and fifty miles long, whicli 
 intercepts the Danube at Rustchuk. This railroad, reducing the 
 journey from Vienna to Constantinople four hundred miles, already 
 divides the freight traffic with the circuitous Daniibian route, while 
 it takes the entire passenger-trade. 
 
 The United States consid, the British consul, and several Euro- 
 pean and American missionaries, were gathered at the wharf at 
 Kustchuk to welcome Mr. Seward. 
 
 The Danube, now carrying a high flood, spreads here over a 
 
rKf)spt:cTs OF tuukey. 
 
 roi) 
 
 n TravcUcvP.-Wbat sIk>1\ 
 T.Mks.-Orsovu.-The l.on 
 Euvopcan ai.O Asiatic e.v.l- 
 _Tbe liuiWi"t^9 of Buda.- 
 n Jay.-Count Von Ueust.- 
 
 tliis morning in Uk' 
 cy in Europe, and the 
 eat importance IVoiu 
 military and naval 
 c that time, however, 
 The Danube, ap- 
 dircetion, dividing its 
 eee channels arc mucli 
 ind tortuous. Briti^U 
 eh a railroad has hecn 
 tifty miles long, whidi 
 railroad, reducing the 
 hundred miles, aiready 
 Danubian route, while 
 
 u. 
 
 Lul, and several Euvo- 
 Ihered at the wharf at 
 
 d, spreads here over a 
 
 mile in width, with higli but not mountainous bunks. The town 
 contains a ])opulation of twenty-five thousand, nnd has the appeur- 
 anco of much activity. It presents less an Oriental than a Eu- 
 ropean aspect. (i((st-hamrt\ h/'er-^taiiwr, not to speak of ships, 
 mnnufactories, and shops, indicate a large dominating (ierman 
 element. Minarets are less frequent, and spires of Christian 
 churches take their place. 
 
 On the opposite bank lies the principality of AVallachia, now, 
 like Bulgaria, practically independent of the Turkish Empin>. Its 
 capital, Bucharest, forty-four miles distant from the Danube, is 
 reached by railroad. 
 
 IIow dill'erent is the voyage on the Danube from our late ex- 
 periences ! Passengers, master, and crew, are all Europeans, gen- 
 erally with German features and complexions, but all speaking 
 French and Italian as well as their vernacular. Ihit the econ- 
 omy of the boat is purely German. There arc only two state- 
 rooms. We have taken these at ten dollars each per day, extra ; 
 while all the other passengers, whether first or second class, sleep 
 as they find places, on the sofas and tables of the forward s^^loon. 
 
 Thursday, Juhj loth. — Still the AYallachian bank on the north, 
 but on the south, Servia. So at last we have left the Turkish Em- 
 pire behind us. The only monuments whicl' the ^Vaywode of Ser- 
 via exhibits arc the now tenantless fortifications, castles, and 
 barracks, in which Turkish garrisons were maintained, long after 
 the severance of Servia, for the security of the em])ire. 
 
 What shall we say of Turkey 'i Let us say that, having seen it, 
 we find it a greater puzzle than before — more completely hybrid 
 than any other state that has ever existed — a combination of two 
 antagonistic and irreconcilable forces — half Asiatic, half European 
 —half Saracenic, half Crusader — half Christian, half IMussulman — 
 klf civilized, half uncivilized — half hostile and belligerent, half 
 pacific and enervated. Thus it has a more difiicult political ])Osi- 
 tion, than any empire has had, to maintain ; and a geographical 
 position, the worst that could be conceived, for maintaining. Its 
 own security requires ♦•hat it shall not only close the passage bc- 
 
 4& 
 
710 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 c 
 z 
 
 1 
 
 i - 
 I - 
 
 tween two seat;, but also, dominate on the shores of two conthients. 
 Turkey is thus ii; everybody's way. The Russians, covering the 
 entire northern part of Europe, and bordering on the Black Sea 
 and the Casi)ian, want free access to the Mediterranean and the 
 Persian Gulf. Tiic English, French, and Germans, want free ac- 
 cess to the wheat-fields of the Danube; the Italians have a prescrip- 
 tive right to tlic Archipelago. All the countries of Continental 
 Europe, like the United States, are becoming manufacturing ct^ui- 
 tries. They need open roads and free markets on the borders (if 
 the Black Sea, .\nd throughout the entire Asiatic Continent. 
 Steadily, persevcringly, they go on, opening the roads to such mar- 
 kets. Great l^ritain and France have already eltected railroad aiul 
 canal communication through Egypt to the Red Sea. British cor- 
 porations have achieved two or three railways in Turkey. A direct 
 and continuous railway communication, across Western Asia to 
 India, looms up already in the near future, while the traditional 
 policy of Russia demands not only free passage through the Bos- 
 porus by sea, but will soon exact a passage through Persia, and 
 the Turkish dominions, from the Black Sea to the Indian Oce;iii. 
 Even the United States, although they but seld«mi float a ship in 
 the Levant, and only occasionally display their flag there, yet, con- 
 scious of a maritime destiny, chafe, like the European states, against 
 the Turkish restraints on navigatloi). Thus Turkey is in every- 
 body's way. The empire must maintain the ^rohammedan reli- 
 gion, or fall a victim to its fanaticism. That religion, Incapable ot' 
 reconciling itself to Christian codes of laws, manners, custom^-, and 
 symjiathies, naturally provokes and stimulates the hatred of tlic 
 "Western nations. 
 
 At the same time, the Turks, while they have not lost their 
 national pride and valor, have become comparatively too feeble in 
 numbers, and too poor in wealth, to maintain an ecpial controvirsv 
 with any of the formidable Western states. The Christian part of 
 the pojndation in the empire and its outposts are continually givini; 
 signs of disloyalty to the Porte, and seeking protection and alilann.' 
 with Russia, (treat Britain, France, the United States, and every 
 other foreign power. Meanwhile the distant Muhaunnedan depend- 
 
TURKISH POLICY. 
 
 711 
 
 5 of two continents, 
 isians, covering the 
 r on the Black Sea 
 diterranean anO the 
 mans, ^vant free ac- 
 ians have a prescrip- 
 .trics of Continental 
 inanufacturin.Qj coun- 
 ets on tlie borders of 
 3 Asiatic Continent, 
 he roads to such mar- 
 • ctfected railroad and 
 [led Sea. Britisli cr- 
 ; in Tnrkey. A direct 
 ,oss Western Asia to 
 , while the traditional 
 lage throngh the Bos- 
 •e "throngh Tcrsia, an.l 
 ^ to the Indian Ocean, 
 eeldom tloat a ship in 
 ^eir flag there, yet, cnn- 
 £uropean states, against 
 
 |us Tnrkey is in evevy- 
 [thc :Mnhanuncdan reli- 
 l^t religion, incapable uf 
 manners, eustomr-, an.l 
 laies the hatred of tlio 
 
 he 
 
 .y have not lost tlR-ir 
 ivKirativcly too teel.lo in 
 in an eipial controversy 
 The Christian part nl 
 Its arc continnally givinj: 
 pn.tectiun and alliant.' 
 uited States, and every 
 t Mohanunedan depend- 
 
 encies in Africa, Arabia, and on the shores of the Persian Gulf, are 
 factious, and in any euiergoncy arc more likely to assert tlieir own 
 independence than to yield support to the empire against an enemy. 
 Under these circumstances, Turkey continues to "vc only by prac- 
 tising conciliation and making concessions ; and these concessions 
 are measured, not by her own ability to grant, but by the magnanim- 
 ity which extorts. Never without a patron, she seeks the strong- 
 est, but, like all dependent powers, she must be content with such 
 as she can secure. The Turkish Government in Euroi)C has been 
 prolonged, chiefly by means of her European allies, a hundred years. 
 While improving in administration, laws, and manners, the empire 
 is manifestly less formidable to-day than ever before. How much 
 longer it shall survive depends altogether on the nuitations of that 
 most intricate of all combinations, the balance of power in Kuroi)c. 
 Just now, however, it has a new ground of hope for longer im- 
 munltv in the misfortunes M'hich have latelv come to the French, 
 Spanish, and Austrian states, and the fall of the temporal suprem- 
 acy of the Pope, coincidences which seem to render an aggressive 
 combination of Catholic Europe against Mohammedan Turkey im- 
 possible. On the whole, our conclusions nuist be that the Turkish 
 Empire will ultimately disappear from Europe, but when, or how, 
 cannot bo determined, while no such uncertainty hangs over the 
 political institutions of Western Europe. 
 
 This conclusion seems a hard one to a generous mind that wit- 
 nesses not only the sincere attempt on the part of the Sultan and 
 the ministry to modify the laws and cnstohis of the Empire, but 
 sees also so many jHeasing evidences of active improveuient and 
 progress. 
 
 It is, however, only too palpable that the closer the approach 
 which the Turkish Empire may make toward the ideas and prin- 
 ciples of the West, the more its European ]>roviiiccs will be em- 
 boldened to shake off its sway altogether ; while, on the other hand, 
 the concessions made in ellecting that a])proach tend innneasm'ably 
 to disgust and (lem()rali;^e Mohanunedans in Asia and Africa, and 
 80 weaken tlie cohesion between the Government and its languish- 
 ing or dead Oriental provinces and dependencies. 
 
712 
 
 LUnOPE. 
 
 Orsova, Jidij \^th. — AVe passed the "Iron Gate" safely tliis 
 morning, notwitlistanding our itinerary instructions had prepared 
 ns for the passage by the following sensational description : " "We 
 now approach the ' Iron Gate.' At this name we are seized with a 
 feeling of terror, but the captain and crew assure us there is no dan- 
 ger, for the pilot understands the navigation." 
 
 The Hungarians claim that the Iron Gate surpasses the most 
 picturesque scenery on the Rhine, in point of granduer. "We arc 
 obliged to confess that it is not inferior in effect to that of the Iliirh- 
 lands of the Hudson, which in mountain scenery it resembles. At 
 the Iron Gate we enter a defile, a mile and a cpiarter long, in which 
 the river, reduced to the width of six hundred feet, has a fall of 
 sixteen feet — above this is a succession of smaller rapids and Avhirl- 
 pools. From time immemorial, the improvement of the Iron Gate 
 has been an anxious study of the nations which control the Dan- 
 ube. "While M'e were examining the ruins of an old canal around 
 it, our friends, the American engineers McAlpine and Powell, cm- 
 ployed by the Danubian Steam Navigation Company, were exhibit- 
 ing to us their plans for substituting some other imi.rovcment. 
 
 AVhat has surprised us thus far in Hungary is, to find that, 
 while the Hungarian mind cherishes a sentiment of state ])ride 
 hardly less strong than that which urged the people of Virginia 
 into the rebellion, yet this sentiment seems everywhere completely 
 subordinated to the sentiment of loyalty to the Emperor of Aus- 
 tria, as the King of Hungary. 
 
 BuflaPa^th^ July I'fh. — How strilcing is the contrast of Euro- 
 pean and Asiatic civilization ! Though Ihida-Pesth is an inland 
 provincial town, with a population of two hundred and fifty tliou- 
 sand, the tonnage in its port, altogether of steam, is greater than 
 that of Cairo, Alexandria, or Constantinople. AVe were not pre- 
 pared for a scene of such activity. 
 
 The river divides the port into two parts. On the southern 
 bank is the royal palace, and n long line of fortifications crowns 
 the hills, while the shore see. s to contain the dwellings of ofHcors 
 and others in the service of the Government. This is Ihida. < )n 
 
itc" safely tlii8 
 IS bad prepared 
 scription: "We 
 ire seized with a 
 J there is no dan- 
 
 rpasses the most 
 anducr. AVe arc 
 tliat of the Iligh- 
 it rescmhles. At 
 ter longc, in which 
 feet, has a fall of 
 
 rapids and whirl- 
 t of the Iron Gate 
 
 control the Dan- 
 1 old canal around 
 e and Powell, cm- 
 lanv, were exhibit- 
 inii.rovcnient. 
 •y is, to find that, 
 ent of state pride 
 people of Vir.i^nuia 
 ywbere completely 
 Emperor of Aus- 
 
 contrast of Euro- 
 
 >estli is an i 
 
 n 
 
 land 
 
 Ired and Hfty thon- 
 
 1am, is greater than 
 
 AVc were not prc- 
 
 On the southern 
 ;tifi('ntions crowns 
 [hvellings of ofliccrs 
 hhis is Buda. <>u 
 
 ui 
 
714 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 the opposite side is a plain covered with a large metropolis. This 
 is Pestli. 
 
 We had determined to remain here one day, although we had 
 neither acquaintances nor references at Pesth. While we were 
 wondering what we should do, and where we should go, we saw 
 the United States flag waving from the roofs of two lofty buildings 
 on the terrace which overlooks the river. We rounded and deliv- 
 ered passengers on the quay at Buda, then swept across and fast- 
 ened to the wharf at Pesth, where we were met by the United 
 States vice-consul, and conducted to apartments which, in anticipa- 
 tion of our coming, he had secured in the Grand Hotel, now newly 
 opened by a proprietor especially desirous of securing the tavor of 
 American trav^ellers. Here we feel, for the first time, that we have 
 left the East behind, and have only Western civilization around 
 and before us. It seems strange that in the same conjuncture are 
 met, for the first time, American interest and influence. An Hun- 
 garian surgeon, exiled with Kossuth, went in the early emigration 
 to California, where he acquired an independence. Afterward he 
 was appointed United States consul at Bucharest, w'\ere he has 
 resided fur several years. He has made his permanent home at 
 Pestli, and takes great pride in his native city. But what is more 
 remarkable is, that to-morrow Pesth gives a trial ^j two ropping- 
 machincs, which are sent out here by the manutacturcrs, neighbors 
 of ours in Auburn. 
 
 We have passed a pleasant hour in looking down from our bal- 
 cony upon the people of Pesth, who are enjoying the fashionable 
 promenade of this street. There is nothing in theii- appearance or 
 ways to distinguish them from similar groups on Fifth Avenue. 
 
 Pesth, July 17th, Ei^enlng. — We made a tour this morning 
 among the public institutions and monuments. AVe admired, as it 
 deserved, the noble suspension-bridge which, crossing the Danube, 
 connects the two cities of Buda and Pesth, although structures of 
 that sort have ceased to be a wonder for us since we ha\e crossed 
 BO often the suspension-bridges of the Niagara and the Ohio. This 
 one is twelve hundred feet long, and twenty-two feet wide, swings 
 
BUDA-PESin. 
 
 715 
 
 jtropolis. Tliis 
 
 .Ithougli we bad 
 While we were 
 .uld go, we saw 
 lofty buildings 
 Linded and deliv- 
 aevoss and fast- 
 b by the United 
 bicb, in anticipa- 
 lotel, now newly 
 ring tbe iavor of 
 Line, that wc have 
 vilization around 
 . conjuncture are 
 iience. An Ilun- 
 i early emigration 
 ce. Afterward be 
 ;st, w\cre be bas 
 ermanout home at 
 But what is more 
 1 +j two ro!^ping- 
 cturcrs, neighbors 
 
 own from our bal- 
 g tbe fasbionable 
 icii- appearance or 
 Fifth Avenue. 
 
 ,>nr this morning 
 We admired, as it 
 ssing tbe Danube, 
 ugh structures of 
 we bave crossed 
 d tbe Ohio. This 
 feet wide, swings 
 
 o 
 
 sixty feet above the water, and was built by an English engineer 
 (Clark) at a cost of seven million dollars. This bridge has an 
 historical interest. The citizens of Pesth rose in defence of their 
 national independence in 1818, and met and massacred Count 
 Lamberg, an imperial messenger from Vienna, who was crossing 
 the river to disperse the Hungarian Diet by force. It may be 
 deemed an evidence of the advance of civilization that, in the 
 dreadful civil strife, although the contending armies by turns se- 
 cured the beautiful structure, neither party laid violent bauds on it. 
 On one occasion the Hungarian army, routed and defeated, was pur- 
 sued across it by the Austrian army, sixty thousand strong. Three 
 months later, the Austrians, retreating in their turn, were pursued 
 across *•. by tbe now victorious Hungarians. Notwithstamiing all 
 this, the bridge remained unimpaired at the close of the struggle. 
 
 Buda was the ancient capital of Hungary, while Pesth, on the 
 opposite side, long remained an important town. At Buda we 
 visited the palace of the kings of Hungary, with the citadel and 
 extensive barracks, claimed to be the largest in the world. These 
 structures, built on a lofty eminence Avbich overlocks Pesth, have 
 a commanding view of the Danube and of the grei t Hungarian 
 plain on either side of the majestic river. When the union of the 
 crowns of Hungary and Austria took place, it Avas distinctly sti])U- 
 lated that the Emperor of Austria should be crowned in Huugary ; 
 that Hungary should preserve its constitutional powers ; and that, 
 as king, the emperor should alternately reside in Hungary and in 
 Austria. The palace of the ancient Hungarian line had been de- 
 stroyed in the Turkish wars, and the buildiug of the present one 
 was bee;un in the reign of Charles VI., and finished bv ^faria 
 Theresa, his daughter. This palace, however it may com] tare with 
 the Schftnbrunn, is not unworthy to be the imperial residence. But 
 Hungary being more progressive than Austria, her claims of an- 
 cient rights and privileges became annoying to the imperial throne, 
 and, in the reactionary administration of Mcttemich, every effort 
 was made to extinguish the Hungarian constitution, and to destroy 
 Hungarian independence. Joseph II. refused to l)o crowned in 
 Hungary, and the palace in whiHi his mother Maria Theresa had 
 
716 
 
 EL'ROPE. 
 
 < 
 
 
 found a safe refuge against the pursuit of Fredcrielv the Great be- 
 came from that time untenanted. It is now honored by an occa- 
 sional sojourn of the present emperor and the court. The orna- 
 ments, decorations, and furniture, of the pahice are rich, tasteful, 
 and in harmony with the customs and manners of European so- 
 ciety. There are statues, paintings, books, and nmsic, not to spealc 
 of cosey salons and boudoirs, nurseries, school-rooms, and chambers, 
 impressing us with their cheerful contrast to the empty, monotonous 
 grandeur of Oriental imperial harems. Besides portraits of -the 
 present imperial family, there are two of great historic interest. 
 One represents a battle scene, with Prince Eugene as its prominent 
 figure ; the other depicts the heroic Maria Theresa ai)pealing to the 
 loyalty of the nation. 
 
 The hills around Buda are chiefly occupied by pleasant country- 
 seats. The city of Pesth is nine miles in circumference. Three 
 huiulred streets divide it into nearly regular squares. It is the 
 Hungarian centre of science, literature, and art, as well as com- 
 merce. It has theatres, colleges, parks, gardens, and every thing 
 which becomes such a city. Among all these objec's of interest, 
 we paused to look only at two. One was the stone stage on which 
 the kings of Hungary were crowned, and the other the celebrated 
 Esterhazy gallery of paintings, which is especially rich in the works 
 of Claude Lorraine and of the great Spanish masters. Having 
 been bought by a spirited and patriotic association, it has become 
 the chief pride of the city. 
 
 "We have had no desire on this journey so intense as to sec 
 Hungary, When the Hungarian people rose to assert its indepen- 
 dence in 1817, it seemed an unknown country to us. Its three 
 centuries of strife, trial, and achievement, whilo the forces of Chris- 
 tianity and Islamism were contending for a i)oundary on its plains, 
 had been forgotten. The whole world were takci by surprise 
 when they saw in the circumstances of the revolution, not only 
 just cause, but virtue as great, intelligence as commanding, with 
 energy and valor as marked, as those which won for our own revo- 
 lution the respect and good wishes of nations. At first tlie sym- 
 pathies of nearly the whole American people were earnestly with 
 
 ill 
 
 '4 I -!l 
 
HUNGARIAN PEOPLE. 
 
 ( II 
 
 riclc the Great bc- 
 juorcd by an occa- 
 i court. The orna- 
 B are rich, tasteful, 
 jvs of European so- 
 music, not to speak 
 )oms, and cliauibers, 
 } empty, monotonous 
 des portraits of -the 
 -at bistorlc interest. 
 ;ene as its prominent 
 resa appealing to the 
 
 by pleasant country- 
 ireumference. Three 
 ,r squares. It is the 
 
 art, as Avell as com- 
 lens, and every thing 
 jsc objec* s of interest, 
 
 stone stage on which 
 Ic other the cclebratca 
 
 ally rich in the works 
 lish masters. Having 
 
 iation, it has become 
 
 so intense as to sec 
 to assert its indepcn- 
 ^try to us. Its three 
 11-! the forces of Chrit^- 
 loundary on its plains, 
 [re taken by surprise 
 revolution, not only 
 as commantHng, with 
 ron for our own rcvo- 
 |s. At first the syni- 
 |e were earnestly with 
 
 them. When, however, the revolution subsided, and its patriot 
 leaders were decimated or sent into exile, and Hungary fell more 
 completely than before under the heels of despotism, a few of her 
 earliest and most constant friends found that they stood almost 
 alone, at home and abroad, in their respect and pity for the unfor- 
 tunate nation. Memory brings up once more the scene of Kos- 
 suth's sad pilgrimage to Mount Vernon, and of his standing in 
 silent contemplation before the tomb of Washington, the only man 
 who had secured the reverence of all mankind by his successful de- 
 votion to his country and liberty. Ills friends left hini alone with 
 his thoughts, and, on returning, found him suilused with tears. 
 " Washington," said he, '• succeeded; I have tailed." 
 
 Having so often wished to come here and renew, on the ground, 
 the opinions and the course of action then pursued, it is a satisfac- 
 tion and a reward to find the Hungarian i)eople all that the friends 
 of liberty throughout the world thought them to be— to find that 
 their quarrel with the Government of Austria was just — that they 
 had a right to be fi-ee — that they had the valor, the energy, the 
 intelligence which would have gained their freedom, but for such 
 combinations as no people ever had the ability to overcome. 
 AHien they had surmounted factious disputes, growing out of dif- 
 ferences of race, language, and religion in Hungary, their attempt 
 to achieve their independence, within necessary boundaries, was 
 the signal for antagonism, resistance, and civil war, in the sur- 
 rounding provinces of Croatia, Slavonia, Wallachia, and Transyl- 
 vania. The separation of Hungary from the German provinces of 
 Austria would be a dismemberment which the empire could not 
 survive. Russia, throu2;h the eves of the Emneror Nicholas, saw 
 in it the restoration of the independence and sovereignty of Poland. 
 European nations, intent on commercial enterprise, shrank from 
 political agitation, which might reproduce the disasters of the 
 French Revolution of 1793. And now, we are required to decide 
 on the spot whether the sacrifices, which Hungary then made, were 
 entirely without avail; and whether her aspirations were impracti- 
 cable, and have perished with the failure of her revolution, leaving 
 licr no remaining hope. The situation which Hungary occupies 
 
718 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 c 
 
 2 
 
 mm 
 < 
 
 n 
 
 'A 
 
 •^1 
 
 i 
 
 »> 
 
 r • 
 
 ri 
 
 .* 
 
 now satisfies all these hitherto painful inquiries. Tlie march of 
 progress in Europe, since 1S40, lias proved irresistible. Austria 
 suffered bj a fearful blow received from France, costing her practi- 
 cally her Italian dominions. Later, a blow froui (lermany, whicli 
 almost seeuied to be fatal, has obliged her to give up the reac- 
 tionary policy to which she so tenaciously adhered, and at the same 
 time to tall back, as she must always fall back, on the resources, 
 the valor, and the loyalty of Hungary. The Hungarians have 
 taken advautage of this emergency to secure from tlie Austrian 
 Empire a confirmation of all their cherished political rights and lib- 
 erties, without betraying the empire to its enemies. Tliere is 
 hardly a political right or privilege, a citizen of the United States 
 enjoys, that is not now guaranteed to the subjects of Francis Jo- 
 seph in Hungary, except that one v.hich no nation in Euro|)e has 
 shown the courage to assume — the right of electing their own chief 
 magistrate by impartial suffrage. The concession of these rights in 
 Hungary has necessitated an equally popular reform in the other 
 parts of the empire ; and although Hungary has failed to achieve 
 independent national existence, which she has never sincerely 
 striven for, she is carrying the whole Austrian Empire to a higher 
 plane of responsible government and popular freedom. Iv. may be 
 doubtful how the Austrian Government can succeed in the new 
 political autonomy, which the persistence of Hungary, condjincd 
 with the embarrassments of the empire, has forced upon it ; but it 
 is quite certain that in no case can Hungary lose the advantages 
 she has so deservedly gained. Considerations like these have 
 soothed the regret with whicli we have seen our revolutionarv 
 friend. Count Pulsky, occupying a place in the councils of the em- 
 peror at Vienna ; and the deeper sorrow with which we have seen, 
 everywhere here, that the remembrance of the martyrs of 1 848, as 
 well as the names of the patriots who survived that period, Kos- 
 suth, Asboth, and Ujhazy, seems to be nearly forgotten. 
 
 On the Danube, Jnhj \%th. — The easiest and the best way to 
 study political geography is to follow the navigation of great riv- 
 ers. The Danube conveys and distributes among all nations the 
 
VIENNA. 
 
 719 
 
 The march of 
 sistiblc. Austria 
 ostiug her practi- 
 Germauy, which 
 rive up the rcac- 
 i, and at the sauie 
 ou the resources, 
 Hungarians have 
 roni the Austrian 
 ical rights and hb- 
 leuiics. There is 
 the United States 
 icts of Francis Jo- 
 tiun in Europe has 
 iuo- their own chief 
 )n of these rights in 
 i-eforni in the other 
 as failed to achieve 
 las never sincerely 
 Empire to a higher 
 i-eedom. Iv. may he 
 luccced ir. the new 
 lungary, eondMued 
 I'ced upon it ; but it 
 lose the advantages 
 lis like those have 
 our revolutionary 
 councils of the eni- 
 kvhich wc have seen, 
 martyrs of 1 848, as 
 Id that period, Kos- 
 LriJjottcn. 
 
 Ind the best way to 
 
 Igaticm of great riv- 
 
 ion<' all nations the 
 
 cereals of Central Europe. It is a pleasure, as you ascend its 
 strong though not dangerous current, to recall the history of Eu- 
 rope from the beginning of AW'stern civilization. Tliu Danube 
 was the boundary which Roman con(pie3ts diil not ^\ass until the 
 beginning of the decline of the cmp're. It was the h , -h-road of the 
 northern barbarians who avenged upon the empire .'le a"-o-ression 
 aiul the insults they had received from the republic, and who, set- 
 tling down in their new conquests, submitted themselves to the 
 laws and religions of the enervated nations whom they had sub- 
 dued, and gave to Europe and the world the basis of a new and 
 higher civilization. In its whole length, from the I'.lack Sea to 
 Vienna, the Danube was the battle-ground between Cbristianilv 
 and Islamism; the boundar"- between them, continuallv sliiltiiif'. 
 has scarcely yet been fixed. vVt iad a strong desire to follow the 
 majestic river to its navigal 'e sonree, in close neighborhood of the 
 Rhine, but time does not permit. "We, therefore, left it at Pcsth, 
 for the more rapid but less nstructive travel by rail, and have 
 had a ten hours' journey f one hundred ami forty miles. The soil 
 over which we have passcu, like that of the plain below Pesth, is 
 fertile; the landscajic beautiful; the people universally industri- 
 ous, women sharing the field-labors ccpially with the men. 
 
 Vien7}a, July Slsf. — Since leaving Constantinople, wc have 
 been enjoying glimpses cf AVestern civilization, but only partial 
 ghnipses, as if through long and shaded vistas. Now it seems 
 that we have rushed into its very centre as we entered the wide 
 and magnificent streets of Vienna. Those of our party who are 
 iiutra veiled in Europe asked, as w-e rolled from the station, through 
 broad and shaded avenues, bordered by palatial edifices, and orna- 
 iiientod with classic fountains and ecpiestrian statues, to our hotel 
 which overlooks the fine boulevard on the ancient ramparts of the 
 city, " Does London or Paris surpass this ? " 
 
 Vienna is, indeed, a great city. Its population exceeds three- 
 quarters of a million ; its accumulated wealth is immense. Its 
 manufacture of scientific apparatus, musical instruments, and arti- 
 cles (jivertu and luxury, is hardly inferior to that of Paris. Panks, 
 
720 
 
 ErnoPE. 
 
 z 
 
 mm 
 < 
 
 n 
 
 I* 
 (J 
 
 ^ 
 
 railroads, and iiavii^atiou companies, ijrasp tho commerce, not only 
 of the Danube, but of the Mediterranean, the l>lack Sea, and the 
 Levant. Its duircbes are built, by lavish contributions of dyiu-f 
 devotees, in pert'eeted (lothic grandeur. Its royal and imperial 
 palaces are of the oldest of the European dynasties. Its univerhi- 
 ties, colleges, academies of art, its hospitals, and charities, rival 
 those of larger capitals. Its school of music is ecjualled oidy by 
 that of Lcipsic. Of course, it was little of all this magniliceiicc, 
 national and metropolitan, that we could see in the short period of 
 four days. 
 
 John Jay, our minister resident at Vienna, was in the moun- 
 tains when we arrived ; but he came prom})tly down to receive us, 
 and has extended to us the hos])italities of the legation. Mr. Dola- 
 plaine, the secretary of the legation, has been C(pially attentive. 
 Mr. Seward complimented Mr. Jay on his success in achieving the 
 negotiation of a naturalization convention with the Imperial (Jov- 
 ernment. Perhaps no single event more strikingly illustrates the 
 rapidity of political progress in Austria than this treaty. In I'^riU, 
 Austria was on the verge of a rui)ture with the United States on 
 the occasion of the arrest of Martin Kostza on board an Amci'icin 
 vessel at Trieste. In 1850, Mr. k'Scward, when here on a visit, was 
 coldly and distantly received by the emperor at an audience in tlie 
 Imperial Palace. Yesterday, coming here so soon after the Arch- 
 duke Maximilian's unhapj^y catastrophe in Mexico, Mv. Seward xis 
 invited by the Count von 13eust, prime-minister of the empire, to a 
 public dinner, given by that minister to the American rejircseiita- 
 tive and the dii)lomatic cor])s, by way of celebrating a naturaliza- 
 tion treat V with the United States, which recognizes the riiilit nf 
 all men, subjects of any government, to change their political alle- 
 giance, and enjoy the jirotection of the state they prefer. Yet 
 more remarkable was it that the entertainment was given in the 
 very hall in which the Congress of Vienna sat in 1815, to establish 
 peace and give public law to Europe. 
 
 The political situation in Austria is more embarrassing than in 
 any other country of Europe, except France. Unlike France, its 
 evils are chronic. The Austrian Empire is not in any sense a eon- 
 
corxT VOV DErST. 
 
 '21 
 
 3 commerce, not only 
 a liliiclc Sea, and tliu 
 jutribntiona of tlyin^ 
 s royal and impcri;il 
 nasties. Its nnivorM- 
 5, and ehariiies, rival 
 c is C(iualied only by 
 all tliis magniiiccihi', 
 in the short period of 
 
 ma, was in the mouii- 
 tly down to receive us, 
 10 legation. Mr. l)el:i- 
 jeen c<iually attentive, 
 iceess in aeliieving the 
 uitU the Imperial (lov- 
 trikingly illustrates the 
 1 this treaty. In ISr.o, 
 . the United States uii 
 , on board an Amerienii 
 leu here on a visit, was 
 r at an audience in xW 
 io soon alter the Arch- 
 ilexico, ^Ir. Seward was 
 ster of the empire, to a 
 |i' American rei>resc"iita- 
 ;clcbrating a natnniliza- 
 ■ecognizcs the right of 
 nge their political iillo- 
 tate they prefer, "let 
 Iment was given in tlio 
 Isat in IS 15, to ost:ibU.sh 
 
 ■0 embarrassing than in 
 Ice. Unlike Franco, its 
 not in any sense a con- 
 
 solidated nation, but, in the course of five hundred years, has ag- 
 gregated, by royal marriages or by eoncpiest, a large number of 
 formerly independent kingdoms, prim-ipalities, and duchies, in 
 Central Europe. The present Austrian Empire consists of nine- 
 teen separate states yet remaining of that aggregate, dilleriug from 
 cnch other in race, language, habits, religion, customs, and com- 
 merce — a part German, a part Magyar, a i)art Slave, a i)art Italian, 
 
 COUNT VON UEfST. 
 
 apart Turkish, a part Oreelc. There arc Mohammedans, Greeks, 
 Rdnian Catholics, Jews, and Protestants. The Protestants are di- 
 vided between Lutherans and Calvinists. These nationalities and 
 •ts, necessarily separated from each other, have been held in com- 
 Itination by force only, without social assimilations. Oi' Austria, 
 with its thirty-five million peo}»le, it must be said, as it cannot be said 
 i any other nation in the world, that there is no Austrian ])eoplc. 
 
722 
 
 ErnopE. 
 
 C 
 
 z 
 
 •Mi 
 
 Vt 
 
 ! 
 
 u 
 
 111 
 
 Tlic world knows its subjects by the names of tliclr respective iia 
 tioiialitics or provinces only. Every one recognizes the subject nf 
 France ns a Frenchman ; of Sweden, as a Swede ; of Denmark, a> 
 : Dane; of Italy, as an Italian ; of liussia, as a Tvussian — but wo 
 know the subjects of Austria only as Bohemians, Hungarians, Tv- 
 rolese, (lermans. Polos, Slavonians, and Wallachians. The empiii> 
 lias liitherto had no common constitution. In the ])rovinci's (4 
 Upper Austria and Lower Austria, the etnperor rules as em])ernr: 
 while, in IJohemia and Hungary, he rules, not as emperor, but as 
 king of those countries respectively. There has been no comnKni 
 legislature. He is despotic in some of the states ; a constitutional 
 and limited monarch in some others. It may not be doubted tliat 
 the em])i'rors of Aiistria have constantly desired and striven to 
 elfect a consolidated empire. It is because they, on the one hand, 
 have usually aimed at effecting absolute unity by coercion, tliit 
 the several states, on the other, have striven to preserve absolute 
 independence by resistance. The absolute in any thing is uiiat 
 tainable l)y m.in, although, as a general law, we attain any thin;; 
 desirable only by striving for the absolute. The great Maria The 
 resa was the first who, with sagacity and energy, attem])ted the 
 task of unification. Joscjili II. persevered wiih great fidelity in 
 the worlc ; but all this policy was shipwrecked in the general con- 
 vulsion tif the Napoleonic wars, and Austria, under the administra- 
 tion of ^letternich, became a victim of absolutism at home, and a 
 leader of that hated cause in Europe. His course eventuated in 
 the Hungarian insurrection of 184S. Upon the successful su]ij>ru>- 
 sion of that revolution, the young monarch, Francis Joseph, inau- 
 gurated a new policy, comprising liberal reforms an'd conccssidns 
 of constitutional liberty to the respective states. The jealousii's of 
 these states, however, have thus far rendered every attemjit at n 
 common and equal basis of government impracticable. It remains 
 to be seen whether an harmonious constitution of the empire can 
 ever be established. 
 
 How can it be hoped for after such continued failures? It 
 may, because the Danube is the great river of Europe. Its 
 branches are the granary and the vineyard of a large portion o! 
 
AUSTRO-IIUNGAIIIAN EMPIRE. 
 
 723 
 
 tlicir respective ua 
 rnizcs tlic subject o\' 
 ;(le ; of Den mark, a> 
 i a Eussiun— but wo 
 nif', Hungarians, Ty- 
 icbians. Tlic empire 
 In tbc ])rovinces ot 
 ror rules as empemr: 
 ,t as emperor, but us 
 bas been no comni.m 
 ;atcs ; a fonstitutioiKii 
 ,' not be doubted that 
 esircd and striven to 
 bev, on tbe one band, 
 Qity by coercion, tliit 
 1 to preserve absobite 
 ill any thing is unat 
 I', we attain any thiiiir 
 Tbe great Maria The- 
 energy, attenijited the 
 wiib great fidelity in 
 id in tbe general con- 
 under tbe admini^tra- 
 hlutisin at boine, and a 
 course eventuated in 
 tbe successful suppri-s- 
 Francis Josepb, inan- 
 forms and concessions 
 tcs. Tbe jealousies of 
 ed every atteniiit at a 
 ■acticable. It remains 
 ion of tbe empire can 
 
 mtinued failures ■? It 
 
 liver of Europe. It= 
 
 of a large portion ot 
 
 tbe world, and supply tbe elements of commerce for bnlf of En- 
 rope. Tbe nations or states wbicb occupy these banks must have 
 tbe protection and defence that all states recpiire. This protection 
 must be allbnled by distant states on the Atlantic coast or on the 
 Bosporus, Hitherto the German race on i>ne side, and the Turk- 
 ish race on the other, have contended for dominion on the Danube. 
 But the Turkish (iovernment lias at last become effete, while the 
 German race has found a permanent line of geographical division. 
 The time has come wben consolidation can be successfully main- 
 tained at tbe centre of the Danubian jdain. It is not easy to fore- 
 see how much or what part of the German race may yet drop oft' 
 from Austria, and be incorporated into the German Emi)ire. But, 
 whether that diminution or abatement of tbe Austrian Empire be 
 more or less, enough of its population and resources will remain to 
 constitute a nation extending from tbe Bosi>oru8 to Germany and 
 Italy, and embracing enough of tbe space between the Russian 
 boundary and the Mediterranean to mahe a great empire. Nor 
 can this Austro-IIungarian Empire fail to dominate on the Medi- 
 terranean shore from the Adriatic to the Sea of Marmora. It may 
 be asked whether, in this view, we do not accept Aus^-ria as a perma- 
 nently imperial or despotic government. "We think not. For the 
 transition from despotism to republicanism is due to agencies which 
 more or less pervade the whole world, or at least the civilized por- 
 tion of it. Nations may change their forms of government with- 
 out at all aft'ccting their domestic policy in their relation to foreign 
 states. Meantime, it is an occasion of sincere satisfaction to wit- 
 ness the progress of material and social improvement that has been 
 made on the banks of the Danube. "When we look at the vigorous 
 and varied agriculture, and the stupendous works of material im- 
 provement which they exhibit, we might almost fancy ourselves at 
 home in the United States. 
 
 « I 
 
cnAPTEP. in. 
 
 ITALY. 
 
 Venice. — American Knights Templars. — Florence. — Atlraetivene^a of the City. — Homo. 
 — The Coli.ieuni. — Cardinal Antonelli anil the Pope. — Interview with the Pope. — 
 Tile Italian Minister of KoreifJin All'airs. — The Schools of Art. — Naples. — Vesuvius. 
 Karly Civili/ation on the .Mediterranean Coast. — Naples, tlie Xew[)ort of the Uoniun 
 Knipire. — Genoa.— Siisa. — Prospects of Italy. 
 
 Venice^ Jul;/ 2^>f/i. — We expected to find Venice in a dilnpi- 
 diitcd and sinking condition. On the contraiy, while a lai-^o 
 nninber (if its palaces and wharves arc empty and idle, tliere is at 
 present a ]>crvading air of activity and cliecrfiilness. What can ])c 
 the caiisj of this i Venice has become, in its dei'linc, a resort for 
 the studious, the contemplative, and the ])leasnre-seekinp^ classes 
 throii<rhout all Europe. It is, indeed, a watcriiijj:-))lace like Xow- 
 ]iort, and we happen to be hero in the fashionable season. Wi; 
 were startled this morninj? by a request of the _i;ood keeper of our 
 hotel, that wc would set our dinnerdiour for the day at either 1i\o 
 or seven o'clock, because at six he was to furnish a feast to ''fifty 
 Knifjhta Tomijlars in full refjalia ! " 
 
 Wo thought v.'c had read history in vain. AVe had su])pose(l 
 that ancient and chiv.nlrous order, driven from the East by the 
 Saracens, had been extirpated five hundred years ago throughout 
 Europe. Wc thought — 
 
 "Tho kniglits' boncn nro dust, 
 Their pood swords rust, 
 Their Bouls aro witii tho saints, we tru.st."' 
 
FLOIiKNCK. 
 
 T-jr» 
 
 "What was our snrpri.sc to learn, not only that tifty of them arc. 
 alive antl well, but that thev were in our lodiiini:- in full armor, and 
 that thev arc our own countrvmen ! They buloni'ed to the jlu- 
 sonic order, and were making tlie tour of Europe together. 
 
 ie=9 of the City.— Home, 
 eivicw with tho PdlH'.— 
 VH.— NapU-s.— Vo^uvhis. 
 1, Newport of the Uon.an 
 
 Venice in a dilnpi- 
 •ary, while a large 
 and idle, there is at 
 iicss. AVhat can he 
 le dine, a resort for 
 nre-seeldnj; classes 
 no;-place like Xew- 
 nablc season. We 
 good keeper of our 
 le (hiy at either live 
 ish a feast to "lift y 
 
 AVe had supposed 
 n the East by the 
 •ars ago throughout 
 
 IruHt."' 
 
 Florence, Juhj '•21th. — Gray Apennine Mountains, with dash- 
 ing torrents, bright and cloudless skies, balmy breezes, rich and 
 highly-eidtivated plains, with winding rivers and laughing vine- 
 yards, pictures(pie rural arciiitecture, storied castles, romantic vil- 
 las, these are t!ie surroundings of Florence. We can now, for tho 
 iirst time, appreciate the art of Claude Lorraine, aud the poetry (jf 
 Virgil, Dante, and Milton. 
 
 Leaving the (lolden Oatc nearly a year ago, wc have traversed 
 the earth's circumference more than sixteen thousaiul miles before 
 we obtained our first glimi)se of eheerfid Eur(>j)ean society at Pesth. 
 In brightness, dignity, and repose, the view of it has improved at 
 every step of our descent of the Alps and the Apennines. 
 
 It being midsummer, no one is in town. Mr, Marsh, United 
 States minister, greets us in a letter from the mountains, where he 
 k detained by illness in his family. King, ministers, and court, 
 all are said to have gone to Rome to reorganize the state of Italy 
 in that ancient capital ; but in reality, like the political functiona- 
 ries of Austria, they arc enjoying the mountains, the sea-side, and 
 other pleasure -resorts. W^e foun<l, without dilficulty, pleasant 
 ;il)artments in the Hotel de rFitroj)e, near the Piazzi della Santa 
 Trinita. This morning Mr. W^urtz, the United States secretary 
 of legation, came with our letters, and has given us kind assist- 
 ance in our hurried explorations of this, the most delightful of Eu- 
 ropean oitiv.s. The first imi)re8sion we receive is, that the editiccs 
 and dwellings of Florence are majestic and solemn, while the 
 streets ar(> broader, more ])erfectly paved, and ck'anly kej^t, than 
 any others in the world. The next impression is, that the ])eoplo 
 "110 meets are more gentle and accomplished than any other peo- 
 ple. How marvellous is the contrast in this resj)ect between Flor- 
 ence and Yedd(\ Peking, Calcutta, Cairo, Constantinople, or even 
 Vienna ! 
 
 47 
 
n 
 
 
mm 
 
 ENTRANCE INTO ROME. 
 
 '27 
 
 
 'f ! , ; 
 
 •rrm 
 
 It lias been a snbjoet of curious inquiry for us wliy Florence, 
 more than any other Italian city — indeed, more than any city in 
 Europe — is attractive to Americans as well as to the En^dish. The 
 reason, we think, is, that the great ideas which the world has de- 
 rived from the philosopI:y, poetry, and art of Italy, have produced 
 ill the character of the people of Florence a harniopy with the 
 more enlightened social life of those two nations. It was a touch- 
 ing illustration of this truth, that we found, in the foreign cemetery 
 uf Florence, the tond)S of Theodore Parker, Elizabeth Barrett 
 Browning, and Louise Kuhn, daughter of Charles Francis Adams, 
 
 Home, Juhj 20if/<.— Even if Rome retaino a consciousness of her 
 identity with the City of the Emperors, she could not complain a^ 
 the lady of the harem in Constantinople did, that we had rushed 
 into her presence irreverently. 
 
 Leaving Fhjrence this morning, we passed through, what so long 
 lias been the patrimony of St Peter, the States of tlio Church, but 
 wliich has just now been absorbed into the new kingdom of Italy. 
 The Italian mountain scenery contrasts strikingly with that of the 
 Tyrol — the latter covered with forests, chietiy evergreen, alternating 
 with fields ot corn and wheat — the former gray and rocky, relieved 
 by the bluish-green olive-orchards, and the d-iep rich verdure of 
 the chestnut. Old cities and villas, built not on the ])lain, but on 
 mountain-tops, call up memories of media3val history. The railroad 
 winds for many miles around the picturesque Lago di Trasimeno, a 
 view of which nnist compensate us for the loss of the sight of the 
 beautiful Lago Maggiore. The entrance into Rome, nay, the very 
 ;ipproach to it, is accompanied with an vnpleasant feeling of the 
 confusion of the ancient with the modern. That long arcade, which 
 vou see on the left, is the still remaining, though broken aqueduct 
 (if the ancient city. That mediaeval gate through »vhich we enter 
 is a structure not unlike the Cashmere gate at Delli!, or the Damas- 
 1 ens gate of Jerusalem. This fine, well-built square is the railroad- 
 station. And now, as we are rattling through compact, solid, mod- 
 urn streets, a fountain comes into view, in which Neptune is drawn 
 [111 his Hoating car by tritons, while the foaming water breaks over 
 
r2S 
 
 E'JROPE. 
 
 z 
 
 a broad, rocky b." ;in. We hfivc -earcely time to notice tliis foun- 
 tain, before we pass Tiimn'y Coimnn, its base sunk in the (lLt'|> 
 plain anil its ca])ital towering above the city. And now we enter 
 the court of the Hotel Costanzi, the whole of which, we are told, is 
 at our service. 
 
 Dinner cannot detain the traveller, however weary, on the first 
 day of his stay ir the Eternal City. AVherc do we go, then ? To 
 the Coliseum. Where else coukI a stranger puss his first evening 
 in Rome, and that, too, a moonlight one? 
 
 "Wiien we came under the dark shadow of the stupendous ruin, 
 a courteous Italian sentinel assisted us to alight, and indicated the 
 passage. Here was a change! AVhen in Rome in 1851), a Freneli 
 soldier repulsed us from tliis gate at night, because we had not an 
 order of admission from the conmiandant of the French army of 
 occupation. At the sanvc time a French bugler, standing undei- tlie 
 arch of the Temj)lo of Pcvice, on the ojiposite side of the street, 
 made the surrounding ruiu echo with the notes of a Freneh n.iirtial 
 air. 
 
 Wc then remarked thnt it was not always so ; the Roman once 
 \» 'uld have cut down the (jaui wIjo should have intruded here 
 with such warlike floiuisli. It is fortunate for us now that the 
 modern (iaul has withd:av.n from the ancient city, and the more 
 jiji.'iablc Roman has resumed the i^are of its monuments. 
 
 After all, the first visit to tlui Coliseum should be by suidiglit, 
 uccause the curiosity concerning its real form, proportions, and 
 uses, is too strong to admit of the indulgence of imagination, which 
 only enhances beauty at the cost of accuracy of vision. ^Neverthe- 
 less, the light of the moon, streaming into the groat arena, cnahled 
 us to form an idea of the general outline and design of the immense 
 structure. Those four tiers or stories of stone benches seated u 
 hundred thousand Romans. These vaulted chambers of the hasc- 
 ment held the gladiators pre]>ared for tl oir deadly encounters; 
 these others, the wild beasts, and those beyond, the captive Chris- 
 tians, who were to perish in the miequal coud)at. Thi« si'inious 
 chamber is where the emj)eror sat while ^iresiding over the savapo 
 an.usement. This arena nmst have drunk oceauB of blood, since, 
 
ic to notice tliis foun- 
 
 asc sunk in the doep 
 
 And now we enter 
 
 which, we are told, is 
 
 vcr weary, on the tiivt 
 
 do we go, then i To 
 
 • pass his tirst evening 
 
 ' the stupendoi's niiii, 
 ght, and indicated tiio 
 jnie in 1859, a Frencli 
 because we had not an 
 f the French army of 
 ler, standing under the 
 site side ot the street, 
 es of a French n.artial 
 
 1 so ; the Roman one.' 
 1 have intrndcd liere 
 for us now that tlie 
 !nt city, and the more 
 lonuments. 
 
 should he by suidiglit, 
 )rni, proportions, ami 
 of imagination, wlilch 
 of vision. !Neverthe- 
 D groat arena, cna])led 
 design of the immense 
 one benches seated a 
 chambers of the haso 
 ir deadly encounters; 
 >nd, the captive Cliris 
 >mbat. This spacioii 
 siding over the savapv 
 jceang of blood, pince. 
 
 
780 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 iSai 
 
 !'5 
 
 t • 
 
 '^^ 
 
 
 during <a single festival, beasts and men were slaughtered by the 
 thousand ; and the same walls that now give back to us the voices 
 of monks, performing midnight orisons, then resounded with the 
 fearful acclamations of the multitude, which unmercifully doomed 
 the vanquished gladiator. 
 
 Our feelings were so intensely absorbed in these reflections, 
 that we did not care to clamber among the ruined arches, or 
 through the shrubs entangled with vines which festoon and some- 
 times choke them. IIow does the Coliseum, the most stupen- 
 dous of Roman monuments compare with Karnak or Luxor in 
 Egypt ? 
 
 The Coliseum is built of brick and stone ; Karnak and Luxor 
 .are built with monoliths of granite. The Coliseum was adai)tccl 
 1o the tastes and habits of men ; Karnak and Luxor were con- 
 structed for the uses of the gods. The Coliseum is great ; Karnak 
 and Luxor are gigantic. Others may study monuments for their 
 architectural grandeur or beauty, but wo must regard them as mile- 
 stones marking the progress of the world's civilization. The Coli- 
 seum, built to commemorate the consummation of the Roman Em- 
 pire, remains equally a monument of its decline and extinction. It 
 connnemorates the fulness and completeness of the conquest of tlie 
 world by the Roman people. It was the place in which they cele- 
 brated their triumph. 
 
 August ?>d. — Immediately on. our arrival here. Dr. Smith, pnv 
 fessor in the College of the Propaganda, Mr. Seward's old friend, 
 to whom we are indebted for many courtesies, asked : " Will you 
 see the Pope and Cardinal Antonelli ? " 
 
 The question had peculiar significance, since it is only witliin 
 the last month that the King of Italy made his formal entry into 
 Rome, and established the national authority within the capitiil, to 
 the exclusion of the political supremacy of the Pope. IVIr. Seward 
 said that he would certainly be happy to receive any consideration 
 at the hands of the Italian Government, but should on no account 
 fail to pay his respects to his Holiness and to the cardinal. Tln'V 
 were just and friendly toward the United States during her hour 
 
CARDINAL AXTOyELLI. 
 
 731 
 
 slaun-litered ])v tlio 
 jack to us the voices 
 resouiKled with the 
 imnercit'ully doomed 
 
 in those reflections, 
 c ruined .nrches, or 
 ■h t'cstoon and soine- 
 n, the most stupeii- 
 i^arnuk or Luxor in 
 
 Karnak and Luxor 
 oliseuni was adapted 
 lid Luxor were con 
 um is great ; Karnak 
 ;nonuments lor their 
 rcffard them as mile- 
 rilization. The Culi- 
 n of the Roman Eni- 
 c and extinction. It 
 f the con(iuest ot' the 
 ;e in which they ccle- 
 
 lere, Dr. Smith, pro 
 Seward's old fViciul, 
 ;, asked : '^ Will you 
 
 nee it is only witliin 
 lis formal entry into 
 
 Hvithin the capital, to 
 
 Pope. IMr. Seward 
 
 vc any consideration 
 
 hould on no account 
 
 the cardinal. Tlioy 
 
 Bites during her hour 
 
 of trial, and had shown him personally kind hospitality when he 
 was here in 18r)9. He considers it his duty to cherish cndiu'lng 
 friendship toward all who in the supreme hour of American struggle 
 were just and faithful to his country or himself. 
 
 The Cardinal Antonelli, with whom Mr. Seward has enjoyed 
 a personal acquaintance for many years, and who is one among 
 the few statesmen of Europe that have always been just an^l 
 
 CARDINAL ANTONELLI. 
 
 liberal toward the United States, received him and the mend)ers 
 of his party with distinguished courtesy in his splendid suite of 
 apartments at the Vatican. Brought doubtless by sincere C(»nvic 
 tion, as well as by the policy of the ]Ioly See, into conflict witU 
 the progressive spirit of the ago, the cardinal-secretary, as all 
 know, is not a favorite in republican circles at homo or abroad, 
 while all nnist acknowledge him to be a man of great sagacity, ot 
 
732 
 
 EUROrE. 
 
 political fidelity, of liii:;li .'i('comj)lisliincnts, and refined manners. 
 The conversation between him and Mr. Seward was cordial and 
 withont reserve. It turned first on the great events which had 
 recently occurred In the United States ; the suppression of the re- 
 hellioU; the ov^erthrow of slavery, the firm establishment of the 
 [Inion, and the reconciliation consequent upon the conflict. The 
 cardinal expressed himself as not surprised that the public justice 
 of the United States inconsistently allowed the escape of the con- 
 spirator Suratt, whom the Pope had, without ]>revious treaty, and 
 without conditions, so promptly ordered to be arrested and Iq- 
 livered on Mr. Seward's demand. 
 
 The conversation then turned on the political situation in Rome. 
 The Koman question is settled ; the Italians have Home ; there is 
 no prospect of immediate change, but the Pope will not leave the 
 Vatican. He has remained there for many months, and he will 
 not leave it voluntarily for any other residence in Home or out of 
 it. lie will not compromise; he will wait. " Non possumus"— 
 the words produced a smile — is the only maxim which his llolinest; 
 can practise when required by man to betray a trust committed to 
 him by (xod. 
 
 "We were informed, yesterday, that his Holiness would receive 
 ]\Ir. Seward in a private audience at eleven o'clock to-day, and at 
 twelve o'clock he would receive the two ladies in the public audi- 
 ence, and Dr. Smith was requested to be present and to act as inter- 
 preter for the party. On the stroke of eleven, Mr. Seward and Dr. 
 Smith ha\ing reached the Hall of the Throne, Monsignore Eicci, 
 Maestro dl Camera, announced that his Holiness was waiting to 
 receive Mr. Seward. IFo ftllowecl monsiiniore throuo-h several 
 spacious and richly-furnished antechambers, passing crowds of prel- 
 ates who were awaiting an audience. Among these di<?nitaries 
 were occasionally seen priests, easily distinguishable by the plain- 
 ness of their dress, and an appearance of timidity, ^ronsignoro 
 llicci having ojicned the door of the chamber in which the Pope 
 was sitting alone, then retired. The Holy Father instantly arose, 
 and, coming quite to the door, extended both his hands, takini,' 
 those of Mr. Seward. On a slightly-raised dais, at the upper end 
 
INTKRVIKW WITH TIIK POPE. 
 
 733 
 
 d refined manneiv, 
 ird was cordial and 
 t events wliieh lia<l 
 pprcssion of the re- 
 istablislimcnt of the 
 I the conflict. The 
 it the public justice 
 ; escape of the con- 
 previous treaty, and 
 be arrested and \q- 
 
 \\ situation in Rome, 
 ave Rome ; there is 
 e will not leave the 
 months, and lie will 
 !e in Rome or out of 
 " Non possumus "— 
 n which his Holiness 
 a trust committed to 
 
 of the cham])cr, were two chairs, by the side of a small writing- 
 table. The Pope placed Mr. Seward in one of these, and sat down 
 in the other. AVc arc informed that hitherto this form of reception 
 has been accorded only to sovereigns and i)rinces. 
 
 His Holiness opened the audience by expressing to Mr. Seward 
 a grateful appreciation of the liberality and sympathy which he 
 always experiences at the hands of the American ])eoplc, and his 
 gratification at receiving Mr. Seward again at Rome. 
 
 Mr. Seward said that in a time when many European govern- 
 ments and statesmen were very illiberal and unfriendly to the Uni- 
 ted States, his Holiness had proved himself just, considerate, and 
 friendly. It was a great satisfaction to him to have an opj^ortu- 
 nity to make this acknowledgment in person, and to congratulate 
 his Holiness on his good health. The Holy Fatlier then freely 
 alluded to his present political situation. Referring to the guaran- 
 tees for his safety and support which were proposed to him by Vic- 
 tor Emmanuel, he said: "I have no personal desire to reign, but I 
 have a trust to keep, and to transmit to my successor. This trust 
 is the patrimony of the See of St. Peter, which I received in my 
 election. The guarantees offered by the Italians are a mockery 
 and a snare. I am a prisoner in chains here, just as my prede- 
 cessor St. Peter was in mnculis. I am aware of my situation. 
 The kings of this world are all too busy to extend mo any help in 
 this emergency. I can only look to the King of kings for sup- 
 port. My resolution is taken ; come what may, I will make no 
 compromise. JVon posswnus / " 
 
 " Holy Father," replied Mr. Seward, " the question of the 
 change of relations between you and the King of Italy is a new 
 unc, hardly yet ripened into a general discussion. The civilized 
 world will consider and i)ass upon it, and their decision will bo 
 right. (Christian nations, while they know their ity to 'render 
 unto Ca>sar the things that are Ciesar's,' know also that it is their 
 duty to ' render unto God the things that arc God's.' The experi- 
 ence of mankind hitherto has shown that tiiev are (luitc as careful 
 to obey the latter precept as they are to fulfil the former injunc- 
 tion." 
 
•31 
 
 Ernoi'F:. 
 
 Mr. Seward then referred to the contidential mibijiou wliich 
 Arc'hbifshop Hughes had executed at Koiue during the American 
 civil war. 
 
 Tlie Pope himeiited the early death of the archbishop as a great 
 loss to the Church and to the two countries. 
 
 Mr. Seward adverted to the loyalty to the American Union of 
 the Roman Catholic hierarchy, as well as their ])0'>ple, and said 
 that, for encouraging this loyalty, the late archbishop was entitled 
 to the highest place. " Of one thing," said he, "your Holiness 
 may be sure — the United States can never be unjust to any just 
 nation, or ungrateful to any friendly state." 
 
 The Pope passed his hands over jMr. Seward's face, exaniiniiiu; 
 the fractures and scars remaining, and then exclaimed : " Voiiv 
 escape was a miracle ! " He inquired largely concerning Mr. Sew- 
 ard's family, his son Frederick, his wounds and his recovery, other 
 children, and their occupations, in a manner most affectionate, and, 
 alluding to the ladies, said he sliouhl soon have the pleasure of 
 meeting them. 
 
 Finally rising, the Pope went to a cabinet, and, taking from it 
 a silver medal containing his likeness which has just been stru'.-k 
 by the Roman nol)ility in commemoration of his ".aving attained 
 the twenty-fifth anniversary of his i)(»ntiticate, requested Mr. Sew- 
 ard to accept it, and keep it in remembrance of him. The Poj^e 
 then conducted Mr. Seward to the door, saying, " I will soon join 
 you in the Consistory." 
 
 Meantime, the ladies had been conducted by IMonsignorc Ricci 
 to the " private Consistory." It is one of the historical cliaml)ers 
 of the Vatican. Here the Pope creates cardinals and announces 
 bishops; here he ]>ronounces those allocutions which are even 
 now im])licitly received by the faithful, and which once shook the 
 thrones of the Christian world. During the present pontificate. 
 the hall lias l)cen frescoed and draped for the reception especially 
 of ladies. It was in this (diamber that the Pope received the Arch- 
 duke Maximilian of Austria and the l-*rincess Carlotta, and ]>r(>- 
 nounced his blessing on their attempt to establish a throne in 
 Mexico ; and it was in this chamber that, on her return from that 
 
TIFK Pol'E AND TIIK I.ADIKS. 
 
 |0.> 
 
 'utlal mil5^^iou wliich 
 luring the American 
 
 arc-libishop as a great 
 
 American Unit)ii (•!' 
 heir ]»e'tplo, a id said 
 L-hhishop was cntitU'il 
 [ he, "your Holiness 
 be imjust to any just 
 
 I'artVs face, examining 
 in cxchaimed : " Your 
 ' concerning' Mr. Sew- 
 nd his recovery, otlicr 
 most affectionate, and. 
 have the pleasure uf 
 
 3t, and, taking from it 
 
 has just been stru"k 
 
 )f his l-.iving attained 
 
 e, retpiested Mr. Scw- 
 
 c of him. The Po|.e 
 
 iiK', " I will soon join 
 
 l)y Monsignore Hicei 
 iie historical chambers 
 [dinals and annouiu'cs 
 tions which arc even 
 ^vhich once shocdv the 
 le present pontificate. 
 
 e reception especially 
 Lpe received the A:vli- 
 
 ess Carlotta, and i>n)- 
 lestabli.sh a throne i" 
 her return from that 
 
 ill-starred expedition, the frenzied princess, refusing to leave volun- 
 tarily, was forcibly curried from the papal i>resencc. 
 
 J)Mring the hour of Mr. Seward's audience with the Pope, some 
 fifty ladies, many of them with children, entered the Consistory, 
 and f(trmed into groups on the left side of the chamber below the 
 dais on which stands the papal throne. The two ladies of our 
 party were standing (»n the oj^posite side of the room, where they 
 were joined by Mr. Seward and Dr. Smith, the private audience 
 being ended. AH the ladies were dressed, according to the court 
 requi'-ement, in high, black dresses, with the Spanish veil, and 
 without gloves. All the children were dressed in white, and car- 
 ried lilies for presentation to his Holiness. Just before twelve 
 o'clock all the ladies, with the children, arranged themselves along 
 the opposite side of the room. J'recisely at twelve, the I'ope en- 
 tered, from a door at the side of the dais, attemled by cardinals 
 and other prelates and otticers. Among these dignitaries were the 
 Cardinal Secretary of State Antonelli ; Monsignore di Merode, late 
 Minister of War; Monsignore Pacca, Maggiord<uno ; Cardinal 
 Prince Lucien Bonaparte ; General Parberini, Duke of Castel Vee- 
 chio, and commander-in-chief of the Guarda Nobile. The l^oj^e wore 
 a white woollen cassock, with a yellow-satin sash, and gold fringe 
 hanging under his left arm. On his head was the crimson suc- 
 chetto ; on his finger the " Fisherman's King," a pidra dunt, with 
 the device emblematic of the Immaculate Conception, but without 
 jewels. One of the cardnials bore his red hat on a cushion. As 
 the Pope entered the duunber, all present rose to their feet ; lie 
 then proceeded along au'l in front of the line of devotees, who 
 kneeled and remained in that position until he had passed. He 
 laid both hands on the head of each woman and child, saying to 
 each some words in Italian in a low voice. Each child presented a 
 lily with its little hand, which the Pope received graciously, and 
 delivered to a cardinal. "When he had passed the entire line, he 
 crossed the room to the place where ^Ir. Seward and his ])arty -were 
 standing with Dr. Smith. The Pojie extended a hand to each of 
 the ladies, and expressed his satisfaction in meeting the children 
 of his friend Mr. Seward, and proceeded to make impiries as to 
 

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 EUROPE. 
 
 their travels and how they had enjoyed themselves. Alluding to 
 Mr. Seward's infirm hands, he asked which of the ladies was takinL,^ 
 the notes of his travels, thanked her for doing so, and expressed a 
 hope that she would continue to do it faithfully. He further asked 
 the ladies if they saw any of the sufferers in the massacre at Tien- 
 Tsin, and, on being answered that they saw only the bishop, W'lio 
 had given them some of the relics of the martyr Sister Louise, he 
 said they were precious tokens. He asked in which country they 
 enjoyed their travels most, and his benevolent face beamed with a 
 smile when they told him " Italy." When the ladies presented 
 some rosaries and crosses brought from Jerusalem, and asked him 
 to bless them, he replied, smiling: "Oh, yes; I bless them, but 
 they are sanctified already." At length, after many minutes of 
 such gentle conversation, he expressed his regret that they did not 
 speak Italian, as in that case he would desire to talk much longer 
 with them. Then, taking once more a kindly leave, he returned to 
 the dais. 
 
 Standing there, he pronounced a short exhortation, all the Cath- 
 olics remaining on their knees. He said : " I thank you all for 
 your kindness in coming to see me. I hope that all my beloved 
 children will hold steadfost in the fiiith, and grow in grace and 
 in good works." Then, extending his arms he added, in a soft, 
 melodious voice : " To all I will extend the apostolic benediction ; 
 to yourselves, your children, your parents, and your friends. I 
 bless you, in the name of the Father who created you, of the Son 
 who rcdceuied you, and of the Holy Ghost who sanctifieth you, and 
 in an especial manner I bless the brave young women from Amer- 
 ica standing with Father Smith at my right hand. They do not yet 
 belong to me, but I chn;rge Father Smith to take care of them 
 while they are in Rome, and give them such counsel and instruc- 
 tion as will bring them at last into the fold of Christ's flock. I 
 shall m'ay for their safe return to their native land." 
 
 At the close of this address his Holiness retired, with his suite. 
 
 August 10th. — Since our arrival in Italy, the Italian Govern- 
 ment has been engaged in the act of removing from Florence to 
 
VISCONTI VENOSTA. 
 
 737 
 
 selves. Alluding to 
 be ladies was taking 
 so, and expressed a 
 f. He further asked 
 he massacre at Tien- 
 )nly the bishop, who 
 i-tyr Sister Louise, he 
 1 which country they 
 ,t face beamed with a 
 the ladies presented 
 jalem, and asked him 
 3S ; I bless them, but 
 'ter many minutes of 
 gret that they did not 
 r to talk much longer 
 V leave, he returned to 
 
 :hortation, all the Cath- 
 " I thank you all for 
 ^,e that all my beloved 
 [id grow in grace and 
 s he added, in a soft, 
 apostolic benediction ; 
 and your friends. 1 
 i-eated you, of the Son 
 ■ho sanctifieth you, and 
 \xv(t women from Amcr- 
 |iand. They do not yet 
 to take care of them 
 •h counsel and instruc- 
 dd of Christ's flock. I 
 
 e land." 
 retired, with his suite. 
 
 ly, the Italian Govern- 
 tving from Florence to 
 
 Rome, henceforth to be the national capital. Victor Emmanuel has 
 been received, and, so to speak, reclaimed at Rome. The Palace 
 of the Quirinal is undergoing repair for his royal residence. The 
 Legislative Hall and edilices are being reconstructed for the execu- 
 tive departments ; and the ministers of the Government, as well as 
 the foreign ministers, have ostensibly taken up their residence 
 here. In this transition stage, the Minister of Foreign Affairs, the 
 Visconti Venosta, though here only for two days, exchanged visits 
 to-day with Mr. Seward. He was quite as free in his account of 
 the embarrassment which the Italian Government suffers from the 
 obstinacy of the Pope, as his Holiness was in his account of his 
 duresse in the Vatican. The Visconti Venosta represents that the 
 Italian people, while they have become practically unanimous in 
 favor of the kingdom and the r.de of Victor Emmanuel, have lost, on 
 the other hand, little or none of tnoir veneration for the Pope, and 
 their sense of obedience due to him as the head of the Church. It 
 is difficult, in the present condition of affairs, to find a boundary- 
 line betw^een the ecclesiastical and civil authority, which will sat- 
 isfy the people. He denied, with much warmth, the allegation 
 that the Pope is under duresse, and says that it is neither necessary 
 nor is it intended to deprive him of any of the privileges or proper- 
 ties which, as head of the Church, he enjoys, further than to trans- 
 fer to the Government of the state the military force and the 
 revenues heretofore derived by him from taxation. " He will 
 live and die," said the Visconti Venosta, " free to exercise the full 
 offices of the pontificate in the Vatican, and everywhere else in 
 Italy." 
 
 We must not leave it to be inferred that we have been inatten- 
 tive to the modern schools of art in Rome. If we have not related 
 our visits to the studios of our countrymen and women, it is because 
 they are, with tout le monde, absent at this season from Rome. 
 Wo have admired, as every one must, Story's Cleopatra, and the 
 Sibyl ; and we have visited Benzoni, perhaps now the head of the 
 Italian school. It is manifestly true, as the world says, that the 
 chisels of Canova and Thorwaklscn, and other modern sculptors, 
 have not attained the science and skill of the Italian school of the 
 
i38 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 Miiddle ages, or those of ancient Greece; but tlie reason prob- 
 ably is, that those former schools flourished in an age and under 
 conditions which concentrated the thoughts of mankind upon 
 art; while our own age, more practical, gives precedence to en- 
 terprises and achievements of greater political and social pith and 
 moment. 
 
 c 
 
 z 
 
 t1 
 
 J,; .1 
 I' 
 
 JVaj^les, August 11th. — It is a ten hours' jo!irney frcm Rome 
 to Kaples. "We can say little mo^e jf it than that it is a ride, 
 under the cloudless Italian sky, across the Campagna, and thence a 
 ■winding way through native oak-forests, ascending and descending 
 river-banks, and Apennine valleys covered with vines and corn, 
 until from the mountain-bound coast you descend to the populous 
 brink of the unrivalled circular Bay of Naples. 
 
 In the afternoon, a small, light, fleecy cloud, which changed its 
 form with every passing breeze, still tenaciously kept its place near 
 the top of a dark, lofty, not irregular mountain. This was the 
 smoke of burning Vesuvius. But no scorim reached the plain 
 through which we passed, nor did a glare of flame appear until 
 nightfall, when, after our arrival, we w^ere contemplating the moun- 
 tain from the balcony of our hotel. Then, w^iat had been a pillar 
 of smoke by day, became a column of flame. A serpentine river 
 of fire was seen flowing down the mountain-side. 
 
 It would be an unprofitable, if not a vain attempt, to trace the 
 early civilization on the Italian or even the African coast of the 
 Mediterranean. AVe should be lost, with the ancient antiquarian?, 
 Dion Cassius and Dionysius Ilalicarnassus, in the mazes of incjui- 
 ries concerning the movements of the " Phcenicians," the " Pehis- 
 gians," the "Autochthones," the "Indigenes," and "Alpine innni- 
 grants." But, long before the Roman state was organized on the 
 banks of the Tiber, the Greeks had planted towns and attained a 
 certain stage of civilization on the sea-coast. Brundusiuni (now 
 Brindisi), Pompeii, Ilerculaneum, Neapolis (now Naples), Capua, 
 Puteoli, Baitr, and Marseilles, were among those towns, and were 
 afterward absorbed in the Roman Empire. The advantages of the 
 Bay of Naples in regard to Oriental commerce, the conveniences it 
 
GENOA. 
 
 739 
 
 t tlie reason pvob- 
 an age and wider 
 of mankind upon 
 
 3 precedence to eu- 
 and social pith and 
 
 jonrney from Home 
 m that it is a rido, 
 ipagna, and thence a 
 ding and descending 
 dth vines and corn, 
 cend to the populous 
 
 d, which changed its 
 ly kept its place near 
 itain. This was the 
 ;^e reached the plain 
 If flame appear initil 
 ;emplating the moun- 
 iiat had been a pillar 
 A serpentine river 
 
 de. 
 
 attempt, to trace tlie 
 African coast of the 
 [ancient antiquarians, 
 the mazes of inqui- 
 icians," the " Pcliis- 
 j' and " Alpine inimi- 
 was organized on the 
 lowns and attained a 
 Brundusinni (now 
 Low Naples), Capna, 
 lose towns, and were 
 lie advantages of the 
 L the conveniences it 
 
 afforded for militfiry and naval expeditions, the beauty and salu- 
 brity of its position, and its mineral springs, attracted there the 
 wealth, the pomp, the ostentation, the literature, and art, of the 
 capital. Judging from the relation of Brighton to the British 
 capital, or Baden-Baden to Germany, or Newport to the United 
 States, we could hardly estimate the importance which the shores 
 of the Bay of Naples then enjoyed. Rome was a well-consolidated 
 empire, two thousand miles long, one thousand miles broad, trav- 
 ersed by a perfect and safe high-road from York in England to 
 Jerusalem. It embraced all the great cities of the world, it had 
 two admirable languages, and a greater unity prevailed in all de- 
 partments of civilization than ever before existed, and scarcely less 
 than that which the world now enjoys. Puteoli was really the sea- 
 gate of Rome. Nymphs, naiads, sirens, and genii, dwelt in the 
 grottos and blue-ocean caves around the shore. If Jupiter did not 
 remove there from Olympus, his swiftest messenger permanently 
 established himself at Baia3, and Venus abandoned Cyprus for this 
 fascinating coast. The Sibyls held the book of fate, whose decrees 
 even Jupiter could not reverse, in their grotto at Cuma?. On the 
 shores of the Bay of Naples, also, was the hell which in all ages 
 has filled the imagination Avith the terrors of a future state, and 
 the Elysian Fields of the blest, whose name even our religion 
 adopts as most descriptive of the felicity which awaits the "just 
 made perfect." 
 
 Genoa^ August l^th. — The courteous waving of the stars and 
 stripes from our mast-head soon brought the consul on board, and 
 we have given twenty-four hours to Genoa. It has shown us its 
 magnificent harbor and almost impregnable fortifications, its nar- 
 row but neat and busy streets, the palaces and villas of its doges 
 and noblemen, of many parties and generations ; and its cathedrals 
 and churches, all of which have justly won for the city its title "la 
 Superba." We have seen its colleges, schools, and universities ; its 
 iicademies of art and science ; its manufactories of delicate fabrics 
 and jewelry ; its statuary, paintings, monuments, and relics, and 
 the trophies of which it is so justly proud. These all sustain the 
 
740 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 i 
 
 noble liistonc record of tlie Genoese in commerce, as tte successors 
 of the Yeneticans ; in arms, as not merely vigorous in self-defence 
 against the rival states of Pisa and Yenice, but in conquests in 
 
 GENOA. 
 
 Spain, Sardinia, Greece, and Asia Minor ; in wars, not merely for 
 self-defence or conquest, but of successful battles and sieges for the 
 Cross — a career full of prosperity and faith, now ended, aftw many 
 revolutions, in the peaceful contentment of a united and respected 
 Italy. 
 
 Susa^ August l^tli. — It has been a matter of much regret that 
 we were obliged to leave Milan unseen, and to come through 
 Turin without stopping at the last capital of the kingdom of Sar- 
 dinia, and the first one of restored Italy. But Mr. Seward was 
 there during his former visits to Europe, and especially enjoyed 
 an acquaintance with Yictor Emmanuel, and the great restorer of 
 
ADIEU TO ITALY. 
 
 Y41 
 
 •ce, as tlic Buccessors 
 orous in self-defence 
 but in conquests in 
 
 
 wars, not merely for 
 
 ttles and sieges for tlic 
 
 low ended, aftm- many 
 
 la united and respected 
 
 Italy, Count Cavour, who was then in retirement on account of 
 the Treaty of Villa Franca. It must, therefore, be enough to set 
 down the observation that, not only has the restoration of Italian 
 unity or nationality originated in Piedmont, but that, in these 
 mountain-regions, the sentiment of the equality of man, which is 
 conducting all nations toward the republican system of govern- 
 ment, has had, if not its origin, at least early and vigorous de- 
 velopment. 
 
 The separation of Church and state is essential to the advance- 
 ment of modern Italy, This seems to be in the way of accomplish- 
 ment. It is not to be expected, nor is it perhaps to be desired^ that 
 the people of Italy, trained in the ritiial and traditions of the 
 Church, will all at once renounce the ecclesiastical authority of the 
 Pope and become Protestant. But ecclesiastics are not dilTerent 
 from other men. They can learn to submit in temporal afi'airs to 
 the authority of the state, when they can no longer control it. 
 Yet the permanent restoration of Italy involves another difficulty, 
 which is of a different kind, and a much greater one. Italy, in or- 
 der to succeed, must cast off monarchy and become a republic. A 
 federal republic cannot exist with a large standing army. No state 
 ill Europe is safe against the ambition of monarchical states with- 
 out a large standing army. Moreover, it is yet to be seen whether 
 these reviving, opulent, prosperous, and intelligent cities, which so 
 lately and so long made the fair fields of Italy the scene of their 
 fratricidal conflicts, will bo content now to acquiesce in the restora- 
 tion of Rome to its ancient and long-maiutaiucd supremacy. — Adieu 
 to Italy I 
 
 48 
 
 Ir of much regret that 
 
 Imd to come through 
 
 If the Idngdom of Sar- 
 
 Biit Mr. Seward was 
 
 |ind especially enjoyed 
 
 the great restorer of 
 
M 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 SWITZEIiLAND AND FRANCE. 
 
 Geneva. — The Alps. — The Tunnel of Mont Cenis. — Passports. — American Fondness for 
 Switzerland. — Berne. — Swiss Statesmen and Politics. — Distress of France. — ^^fhe 
 Franco-Germcn War. — Lord Lyons. — Mr. Washburne. — Versailles. — The French 
 Assembly. — President Thiers. — A Dinner with President Thiers. — Condition of 
 Frarce. — M. Drouyn de Lhuys. — M. Laboulaye. — Dr. Evans and the Empress £u- 
 g6nie. — ^Aspect of Paris. — Prospects of France. 
 
 Geneva, August 21s^. — We have had two delicious days on the 
 Alps. From Susa in Piedmont, we went, by a pass six thousand 
 feet high, around a peak eleven thousand feet above the sea, to 
 Chambery in Savo./ ; thence up the valley of the Rhone. The Al- 
 pine region, thus traversed, is colder and more sterile than any we 
 have passed. Eternd glaciers are suspended from the peaks of 
 mountains, down their sides, the rapid torrents of which serve .is 
 fountains for the Po on the one side and the Rhone on the other. 
 
 Among many interesting antiquities at Susa, one, thorouglily ii- 
 structive, is the inscription, over its ancient gate-way, enumerating 
 the eleven native tribes of the mountain-region, and re.^iting tliat 
 the king surrenders his authority and assumes the title of prefect 
 under the dominion of the divine Emperor Augustus. 
 
 So it seems to have been from the beginning of the world! 
 States are built by overcoming and extinguishing petty, defenceless, 
 and contentious tribes. So the United States have extended their 
 dominion, from Plymouth to San Francisco, from the St. Lawrence 
 to the Rio Grande. 
 
 The Alps, which, from time immemorial, have been the barrier 
 
THE ALPS. 
 
 T43 
 
 rCE. 
 
 ,rts —American Fondness for 
 i —Distress of France.— fhe 
 "c-Vcrsailles.-The French 
 sident Thiers.— Condition of 
 , Evans and the Empress Eu- 
 
 ■0 delicious days on the 
 by a pass six thousand 
 
 feet above tlie sea, to 
 )f the Bhonc. The Al- 
 
 ore sterile than any we 
 
 ded from the peaks of 
 •ents of which serve is 
 . Hhone on the other, 
 lusa, one, thoroughly "- 
 gate-way, enumerating 
 >gion, and renting that 
 Lines the title of prefect 
 A.ngustu8. 
 
 .ginning of the world! 
 Lhing petty, defenceless, 
 tes have extended tlieir 
 1, from tlie St. Lawrence 
 
 have been the barrier 
 
 and defence of Italy against invasion, are just on the eve of giving 
 up that important distinction. The wealth and the vigor of AVest- 
 ern nations have spent two thousand years in reducing that barrier. 
 King Pepin secured from Pope Stephen III. the honorable title of 
 " Eldest Son of the Church " by leading an army over it for his relief. 
 Louis XIV. improved the pass by sending a French amy across it 
 for less spiritual motives. Napoleon I. constructed liie military 
 road used since his time. "What the spirit of conquest imperfectly 
 executed is now to be completed by commercial enterprise, which, 
 taking advantage of modern improvements, has projected the exca- 
 vation and construction of a tunnel, with railroad-track, twelve 
 miles through the base of the mountain. This enterprise, suffi- 
 ciently bold to mark the advance of civilization for many centu- 
 ries, has but two equals, both effected simultaneously with it, the 
 Pacific Railroad and the Suez Canal. We think it fortunate that 
 we have enjoyed the passage over the mountain instead of coming 
 through the tunnel, which is to be opened in two weeks. 
 
 At the frontier station we encountered our first experience of a 
 state of Avar. A French officer demanded our passports, and vised 
 them with care. This incident recalled a suggestion, made to the 
 Emperor Napoleon in 1859, that nothing would impress the people 
 of the United States so favorably as an abolition of the passport 
 system, to which he answered, giving the usual reasons for that 
 form of political espionage. When, three years later, the United 
 States fell into civil war, and established rigorous passport regula- 
 tions, which continued even after its close, M. Berthemy, the 
 French minister at Washington, expostulated against a system 
 which France had then given up. Now, we have left the United 
 States, wilh the passport system abolished, only to find it restored 
 in France and Germany. 
 
 We entered Switzerland by the valley of the Rhone, and, fol- 
 lowing its winding and highly-cultivated banks, we reached Geneva 
 this evening. 
 
 As the cars stopped, the fomiliar expression was heard, in plain 
 English, " There is the governor ; " and in a very few moments we 
 Were conducted by tho zealous and es1;eemed consul, Mr. Upton, 
 
744 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 a Virginia loyalist, to delightful apartments in the Metropolitan 
 Hotel, on the shore of lovely Luke Leman. 
 
 Aiigust 2M. — We seem here to have come upon the verge of 
 home. London papers only one day old, New York telegrams 
 only six hours old. The hotels are full of Americans. 
 
 What is it that makes Americans so much frequent, haunt, and 
 linger in Switzerland ? Is it not for the same reason that people 
 frequent, haunt, and linger about a looking-glass, especially if it bo 
 a convex one that softens their hard features, by presenting them 
 in miniature ? What is Switzerland, with its mountains, glaciers, 
 forests, cliffs, lakes, cataracts, and rivers — what is it as a political 
 state, with its twenty-five cantons and half cantons, its Federal 
 Council and Administration, its cantonal legislatures, universal 
 suffrage,, and eligibility to office, its assignment of war, peace, and 
 foreign relations to the Federal Government, and its allotment of the 
 protection of life, liberty, and property to local legislatures and 
 tribunals, its universal education, voluntary if the people will, com- 
 pulsory if they will not, its practical relijpous toleration — but vast 
 Korth America compressed within an area scarcely two hundred 
 and fifty miles square — the United States in miniature? 
 
 Bernc.^ August 2oth. — The United States minister, Mr. Riiblcc, 
 like most ministers at this season, is travelling. His secretary, 
 Captain Aschmann, a Swiss volunteer in the United States Army, 
 W'ho lost a leg at the battle of Fair Oaks, met us at the railroad- 
 station, and informed us that the President ^'o tern, of the Federal 
 Council, in the absence of the chief, would call upon Mr. Seward 
 immediately on his arrival at the hotel. The republican character 
 of the Government could have no better illustration than the ap- 
 pearance of that gentleman, Mr. Welti, and his tender of the hospi- 
 talities of the capital. There was neither coach, nor equipage, nor 
 guard, nor banner, nor sword, nor mace, nor uniform. Mr. Welti 
 came, introduced only by Captain Aschmann. He was dressed in 
 a suit of plain gray clothes, such as a citizen might wear in a rural 
 town of the United States. Long connected, however, with the 
 
SWITZERLAND. 
 
 745 
 
 1 the Metropolitan 
 
 J upon the verge of 
 cw York telegrams 
 erieans. 
 
 frequent, haunt, and 
 te reason that people 
 ^ss, especially if it be 
 J, by presenting them 
 s mountains, glaciers, 
 at is it as a political 
 : cantons, its Federal 
 legislatures, universal 
 ent of war, peace, and 
 and its allotment of the 
 
 local legislatures and 
 if the people will, com- 
 us toleration— but vast 
 
 scarcely two hundred 
 
 miniatured 
 
 5 mimster, Mr. Pvublee, 
 ^elling. His secretary, 
 c United States Army, 
 met us at the raihoad- 
 p^o tern, of the Federal 
 call upon Mr. Seward 
 he republican character 
 llustration than the ap- 
 his tender of the liospi- 
 ;oach, nor equipage, nor 
 \r uniform. Mr. Welti , 
 m. He was dressed in 
 In might wear in a rural 
 ;ted, however, with the 
 
 Govcmmont, having in his time more than once presided in the 
 Council of State of which he is novv a nicmber, he is well informed, 
 and his conversation was as instructive as it was interesting. lie 
 expressed a high personal satistaetion in his recollection of the tiict 
 that, in the treaty for the settlement of the San Juan question 
 (made between the United States and Great Britain during tho 
 administration of Mr. Johnson, but which failed of ratification by 
 the Senate, together with the Alabama Claims Treaty, of the same 
 period), he, being President of the Swiss Council, had been named 
 as umpire. He explained to Mr. Seward, well and ably, the finan- 
 cial condition of this little republic, and the entire contentment of 
 its people with their republican institutions. Without an emperor, 
 without a king, without a duke or count, without a pope, arch- 
 bishop, bishop or prelate, with only a Council of Ministers chosen 
 by the Legislature annually from the Council of State, with only 
 an organi;5ed voluntary militia, in lieu of a standing army, Swit- 
 zerland has no foreign wars, no controversies, no domestic disturb- 
 ance, and life, liberty, and property, are as safe in the darkest, re- 
 motest mountain-glen, as they are in any city under the i)rotection 
 of the best police in the world. 
 
 Mr. Seward inquired for Mr. Stacmpfli, late President of the 
 Federal Council, and long the leading statesman of the republic, 
 lie has retired from the administration to assume the manaijement 
 of a bank, an illustration how the character of Gallatin was formed, 
 and how it happened that Necker was called to restore the depleted 
 treasury of France. 
 
 The present Federal Constitution of Switzerland is framed quite 
 closely on the United States model ; the Legislature is composed of 
 two Houses — the Council of State consisting of two representatives 
 from each canton ; the other House consisting of representatives 
 apportioned according to the pi^pulation. 
 
 Mr. Welti says that there is even in Switzerland a class of poli- 
 tical reformers, agitators, radicals, who demand the abolition of the 
 Council of State, so that there shall be only one legislative body. 
 lie is opposed to this change. 
 
 Mr. Seward hoped that it would not be made. He said that, in 
 
746 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 ^1 
 
 I 
 
 (3 
 
 m 
 
 the beginning of our republic, there was a division on the subject 
 of the legislature in the United States, Ilaniilton, witli Washing- 
 ton, gave a decided preference to two Houses. Dr. Franklin, infln- 
 encod by sympathy with the French reformers, advocated a single 
 one. Hamilton's proposition prevailed in the Federal Government 
 and in all the States except Pennsylvania, where Franklin's influ- 
 ence secured a single legislative body. But even that was soon 
 afterward changed. France, whenever she has been re])ublican, 
 has adhered to a single legislative chamber. Mexico has followed 
 the example of France. It is a singular fact that the republican 
 system has failed, or met with only partial success, wherever only 
 one legislative body is established, and it has not failed anywhere 
 else. 
 
 Mr. Welti inquired of Mr. Seward whether the United States 
 would aid Switzerland in claiming the rights of a maritime power 
 on the high-seas. 
 
 Mr. Seward thought that, in the absence of a seaport, other na- 
 tions were not likely to make such a concession to Switzerland, but 
 he expressed his belief that as Switzerland, by reason of its re])ub- 
 lican institutions, has become an asylum and refuge for all political 
 exiles, the free states of the world ought to agree to guarantee to 
 Switzerland safety against aggression or threats of arbitrary pow- 
 ers. Will Switzerland remain a republic? Yes, it is to be ex- 
 pected as confidently as it is to be earnestly hoped. Her safety 
 finds a guarantee in the zeal, loyalty, and patriotism of her people, 
 not less than in the decline of the despotic principle in the once- 
 aggressive nations by whom she is surrounded. Even Austria is 
 more likely to become republican than Switzerland is to relapse 
 from that system. 
 
 And now the president has retired, the capital has been ex- 
 plored, the great town-clock of the cathedral, eleven hundred years 
 old, has struck the hour of twelve, with the pomp and parade of a 
 royal review ; we have fed the bears of Berne, given a letter of 
 thanks to the veteran and wounded Swiss attache, and we are en- 
 tering the cars w^hich arc to convey us through la helle France, to 
 her mourning and disconsolate capital. 
 
PARIS. 
 
 747 
 
 ision on the subject 
 iton, with WashinK- 
 
 Di*. Franldiu, intlii- 
 5, advocated a sinj^lo 
 L'odoral Gov eminent 
 ere Franklin's inilu- 
 
 even that was soon 
 has been republican, 
 
 Mexico has followed 
 ; that the republican 
 iccess, wherever only 
 
 not failed anywhere 
 
 icr the United States 
 I of a maritime power 
 
 of a seaport, other na- 
 on to Switzerland, but 
 by reason of its repub- 
 refuge for all political 
 agree to guarantee to 
 ■eats of arbitrary pow- 
 Yes, it is to be ox- 
 ly hoped. Her safety 
 triotisni of her people, 
 principle in the oncc- 
 cd. Even Austria is 
 itzerland is to relapse 
 
 capital has been ex- 
 [, eleven hundred years 
 Ipomp and parade of a 
 jrnc, given a letter ot 
 ittacU, and we are en- 
 Lngh la hello France, to 
 
 Parts, Aagnut SO^A. — AVo left norno rapidly behind ut and, 
 following the shore of the long and beautil'ul Lake IN'eufcluitel, left 
 Switzerland, with its glorious mountains and cascades, its rich 
 grazing-grounds, and its simple, sjiarso, and rustic population, and, 
 coming to the region between the Rhine and the lilione, entered 
 Burgundy, admiring the Cote d'Or, with its magnihccnt vintages 
 and frc([uent villages, and reached Dijon at eleven o'clock. 
 
 In frontier France, which we had passed on the way through 
 Chambery to Geneva, and again on the railway from Herne to 
 Dijon, we saw only painful manifestations of public and private 
 sorrow and anxiety. The more rude and simple the peasantry, the 
 more the men betrayed a consciousness of pressing perplexity, and 
 every woman was in habiliments of mourning. There was neither 
 activity, nor curiosity, nor interest of any kind. When the trains, 
 abated of their magnitude and importance, arrived at an unex- 
 pected hour at the railroad-stations, there wore no croAvds, nor 
 equipages, nor display of any kind in the streets of Paris, and wo 
 seemed especially welcome at Meurice's Hotel, of which only a few 
 apartments are occupied, and those by Americans exclusively. 
 
 AVhen we left Auburn last year, a war between France and 
 Prussia, the causes of which were laid fifty years ago, and which 
 had been four years in preparation, had just opened. The task of 
 reorganizing political and ecclesiastical institutions in France had 
 become inevitable at the close of the last century. The nations of 
 Europe, taking alarm at the boldness of the innovations, combined 
 to uphold the ancient Church and state, and to suppress a revolution 
 which threatened subversion of all existing authority in Europe. 
 France resisted the intervention with a vigor and a power which, 
 while it maintained her integrity, had only been acquired by the 
 sacrifice of accepting the military despotism of Napoleon in place 
 of the republican institutions she had ardently desired to establish. 
 Napoleon's ambition urged him to push beyond the bounds of pos- 
 sibility the retaliation which France had inaugurated. His throne 
 and the sway which he had established from the Atlantic to the 
 Adriatic, from the Mediterranean to the Zuyder-Zee, perished to- 
 gether in 1814, and a compromise ensued, irksome and hateful to 
 
748 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 t1 
 
 s 
 
 both parties. AVhile Austria, Prussia, Italy, and Belgium, had 
 conceded to France too much for their own contentment, France 
 had been cramped within boundaries too small for her ambition. 
 Fifty years of peace, such as Europe had never enjoyed, invigorated 
 all the parties. The people of France, impatient of tranquillity 
 and contentment incoijipatible with the glorious memories of Na- 
 poleon, of Louis XIV., of Ilcnry IV., and Charlemagne, demanded 
 of the new cmjure political activity and demonstration. Napoleon 
 III. complied, and, by a master-stroke of policy, combined with Great 
 Britain in giving check at Sevastopol to the ambition of the Czar. 
 Having thus established an alliance with Great Britain, an ancient 
 enemy and always a powerful rival. Napoleon yielded to the na- 
 tional ambition by lending that elfectivc assistance to Sardinia 
 which resulted in expelling Austria, and restoring, after a lapse of 
 a thousand years, a united and independent Italy. The military 
 ambition of France thus renewed demanded new achievements, 
 and looked for them across the Tlhine. Napoleon, too wise for 
 such an expedition, sought to compromise by an expedition to 
 Mexico, which he apprehended could be safely made by reason of 
 the distance of the field where battle was to be given, the isolation 
 and feebleness of that state, resulting from universal discontents, 
 and the demoralization of the United States, the only probable 
 ally of Mexico, by a civil war promising nothing less than a disso- 
 lution of the republic. Each of the two expeditions proved a great 
 mistake. The national union of Italy proved, in the language of 
 President Thiers, to bo " the mother of German unity." The inva- 
 sion of Mexico gratified neither the ambition nor the pride of the 
 French people, and its hasty abandonment exposed the empire to 
 contempt at home and insult abroad. Meantime Prussia, availing 
 herself of the defeat and humiliation which France and Italy had 
 alrcad}? inflicted upon Austria, made successful war against that 
 rival, and, depriving her of German provinces and allies, consoli- 
 dated all of Western Germany into a broad and majestic empire, 
 equal, at least in population, resources, energy, and martial spirit. 
 to France. The French now impetuously demanded war against 
 Prussia. United Germany saw that the hour for her retaliation 
 
 
FRANCO-GERMAX WAR. 
 
 749 
 
 md Belgium, had 
 ntentmcnt, France 
 for lier ambition, 
 ijoyed, invigorated 
 ent of tranquillity 
 s memories of Na- 
 lemagne, demanded 
 stration. Kapoleon 
 ombined with Great 
 nhition of the Czar. 
 Britain, an ancient 
 , yielded to the na- 
 iistance to Sardinia 
 ring, after a lapse of 
 Italy. The military 
 new achievements, 
 poleon, too wise for 
 by an expedition to 
 kr made by reason of 
 e given, the isolation 
 iniversal discontents, 
 iS, the only probable 
 ling less than a disso- 
 tions proved a great 
 , in the language of 
 m unity." The inva- 
 nor the pride of the 
 posed the empire to 
 ime Prussia, availing 
 ranee and Italy had 
 Isfnl war against that 
 •s and allies, consoli- 
 and majestic empire, 
 ;y, and martial spirit, 
 .emandcd war against 
 Lir for her retaliation 
 
 li 
 
 t 
 
 had come ; she accepted the gage of battle. When we left home, 
 Napoleon on the Prussian border was telegraphing to the empress- 
 regent his iirst success. Before we embarked at San Francisco we 
 heard only of rencli repulses, reverses, and defeats. Then for 
 nearly four weeks all intelligence was cut off from us. In Japan, 
 we heard that the emperor had become a prisoner at Sedan, nnd that 
 the empress with her son had taken refuge in England. Tiic.xcc- 
 forward, as we advanced westward, the Germans were marching ». n 
 Versailles. France could obtain peace only by reorganization with 
 the German army on her soil, and at the gates of her capital. Then 
 came the republic, with Gambetta at its head ; then a National As- 
 sembly at Bordeaux. Next the organization of the Connnunists at 
 Paris to resist the National Assembly at Bordeaux ; then the re- 
 moval of the National Assembly to Versailles in the presence of 
 the German invaders, and the election of Thiers as provisional 
 president ; then the frightful anarchy of the Commune at Paris, 
 only suppressed by the decimation of its leaders by the French 
 army, now nnder the direction of President Tliiers, and then a col- 
 lapse. What that collapse signiiied, whether a renewal of anarchy, 
 or an exhaustion of the forces of anarchy, no one knew. Timid 
 and peice-loving people avoided France and Paris as one might 
 avoid Vesuvius when its fires had subsided, but the rumbling, in- 
 ternal commotion still continued. The destinies of France, so far 
 as they depended upon herself, were in the hands of a popular as- 
 sembly at Versailles, a body of seven hundred, consisting of dis- 
 cordant factions, each of whom thought its hour for complete tri- 
 umph was at liand. These parties had compromised on an admin- 
 istration which was allowed to preside and mediate for only one 
 reason — namely, that it assumed the responsibility of relieving the 
 French natitm, as soon as it should be practicable, of the German 
 invaders. President Thiers was at the her.d of the administration, 
 and Jules Favro Minister of Foreign AiTaivs. 
 
 When we arrived in Paris, this morning, we found that the 
 30th of this month has been assigned for a debate, in which the 
 four parties arc to decide their mutual contest. The partisans of 
 the old regime arc expected to strike for the ancient monarchy un- 
 
750 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 der Uie Count cle Cliambord. The Orleanists claim the throne for 
 the Count de Paris. There are rumors and hopes and fears of a 
 coalition between the two monarchical factions. The republicans 
 will have neither of these, nor the em])ire, while the imperialists 
 think that these divisions will enable them to restore the emperor, 
 who has been released from his German prison, and is now in 
 exile in England. 
 
 August '^7t1i. — ^We dined to-day with Li rd Lyons, to whom Mr. 
 Seward is warmly attached by reason of his honorable and upriiilit 
 conduct as minister of Great Britain to the United States, in the 
 early years of our civil war. 
 
 France is a type, although an exaggeration, of modern political 
 ideas. Nations will not consent to remain indefinitely under any 
 dynasty or personal authority. They not only want frequent 
 chaiiofes, but they have found out the secret of making sucli 
 changes. In the United States we have fortunately a legal aiul 
 orderly means of gratifying this desire for change. Our Consti- 
 tution allows the people to choose their own governmental head, 
 but requires them to abide by his authority only four years. Every 
 four years they can turn him out. 
 
 Aitgmt 2Sth. — In the Bois de Boulogne, instead of the crowd 
 of equipages round the cortege of the emperor, under the majestic 
 trees and near the crystal lakes, we now found only one carriage, 
 which bore Seining Ilao, the Chinese ambassador, who came to 
 Paris to explain and palliate the Tien-Tsin massacre. He is now 
 returning home, after having failed to receive a M'ord of courtesy 
 or kindness from President Thiers, who is at the same time con- 
 strained, by the sad condition of France, to make no demonstra- 
 tion or declaration hostile to China. 
 
 August ^\st. — Mr. Washburne, the United States minister, re- 
 mained in Paris during the entire siege, keeping up, as well as he 
 could, olHcial communication with the Provisional Government, 
 first at Bordeaux, then at Versailles. lie was enjoying a short res- 
 
VERSAILLES. 
 
 751 
 
 im the throne for 
 3S and fears of a 
 The republicans 
 ) the inipcriahsts 
 :ore the emperor, 
 n, and is now in 
 
 rons, to whom Mr. 
 arable and upright 
 ited States, in the 
 
 )f modern political 
 ciinitcly under any 
 ,ily want frequent 
 t of making such 
 mately a legal and 
 mo-e. Our Consti- 
 kovernmeutal head, 
 bur years. Every 
 
 1 
 
 stead of the crowd 
 
 under the majestic 
 
 only one carriage, 
 
 ,ador, who came to 
 
 issacre. He is now 
 
 u word of courtesy 
 
 he same time con- 
 
 ake no demonstra- 
 
 pite of absence at the time of our arrival. He came to town on the 
 29th, and, after giving us a kind welcome, presented a note from M. 
 Eemusat, the newly-appointed Minister for Foreign Affairs, inviting 
 Mr. Seward to Versailles. Yesterday morning, not caring to use 
 what is called here the " American Railroad," we proceeded by car- 
 riage to Versailles, passing through the Bois de Boulogne. Splen- 
 did St. Cloud is a blackened ruin, and, as it seemed, countless forts 
 on either side have been stormed and demolished. Detachments 
 of the late contending armies are scattered in the villages along 
 the road — now a battalion or brigade of the French army, now of 
 the Germans. There seems to be no intercourse between them, 
 and doubtless each is weary of the other's presence. Driving 
 thVough Passy, where Franklin resided during his mission to 
 France, a curious reflection came over us : How much of this 
 strange, eventful career, which France has endured, was due to 
 the blandishments of our philosophic, persuasive, and skilful en- 
 voy 2 Certainly he procured the not unwilling consent of Louis 
 XVI., and the spirited concurrence of Marie Antoinette, to the 
 treaty between France and the United States, which led to our 
 national independence, and consequently to the French Revolu- 
 tion, with its awful catastrophe. Could any other than Franklin 
 have gained that treaty ? Doubtful. Had it not been gained, 
 might not the kingdom of Louis have withstood the tempest ? 
 
 Versailles is a magnificent town of thirty thousand people, who 
 enjoy streets broader than those of Vienna, and dwellings not less 
 superb than those of Genoa. So lately the headquarters of German 
 occupation, and now the seat of the provisional government, the old 
 town assumes a tone of activity, '^'^^e government at Versailles is 
 not fixed, like the other courts we have visited, but is provisional and 
 almost military. Wo stopped at the hotel. Grooms would take the 
 horses ; as for ourselves, we might sit in the small room adjoining 
 the conciei'fferie, or we might walk through the restaurant and sit 
 under the shade-trees in front of the house. More than five hun- 
 dred well-dressed, active gentlemen were being served, in groups of 
 from two to half a dozen each, with all the clatter and din of a rapid 
 breakfast. These were the members of the Provisional Assembly of 
 
752 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 France. Breakfast over, Mr. Seward, with Mr. "Washburre, went to 
 the Department of Foreign Afi'airs. The minister, M. Remnsat, a 
 grandson of General Latayette, is an intellectual and accomplished 
 man, and always a firm, consistent republican. The reception, 
 though necessarily short, was genial, free, and very friendly. The 
 Provisional Assembly was to meet at twelve o'clock. The debate 
 might involve a national crisis. M. Thiers, as provisional chief of 
 the state, must attend and be deeply engaged during the day. He 
 would receive Mr. Seward at his house at eight o'clock in the 
 evening. Thence we hastened to the Assembly, and the wa^' was 
 opened, by officials of the Government, through an immense crowd 
 composed of respectable and intelligent people, to the diplomatic 
 box. 
 
 The members, assembling on the floor below, were engaged in 
 conversational groups. In the diplomatic box were an English lady 
 and gentleman, who politely left the comfortable front seat for Mr. 
 Seward and chose the adjoining ones. The box soon filled up with 
 persons introduced by their legation, as we had been by ours. 
 
 Promptly, at the appointed hour, the president, M. Grevy, took 
 the chair, and called the Assembly to order. There was a numer- 
 ous array of clerks and reporters. With great rapidity, official 
 reports of the ministry were presented and referred, of course, to 
 the respective committeeSj as incur legislative assemblies; while 
 the Chamber, like them, presented a scene of confusion which ren- 
 dered any attention to the order of business by the members im- 
 possible. At length, the special order of the day was announced. 
 The question, in effect, was the vital one whether the Assembly, 
 which had been convened to organize a government, to make a 
 treaty of peace with Prussia, and which had now accomplished Ihnt 
 object, ought not to resign its powers. A deputy mounted the 
 tribune and began to read a speech to the Chamber, hushed in 
 silence just long enough to allow the speaker to indicate his posi- 
 tion ; then followed a Avild uproar of voices ; acclamations from the 
 *' right," the moderate republicans, interrupted by the extremists; 
 and grumblings, challenges, and defiances, from the conservative 
 members. The discontented rose in their seats with violent objur- 
 
NATIONAL ASSEMBLY OF FRANCE. 
 
 753 
 
 'aslibiirre,went to 
 ;er, M. Remusat, a 
 
 and accomplislied 
 The reception, 
 ery friendly. The 
 3lock. The debate 
 ^provisional chief of 
 iring the day. He 
 fvht o'clock in the 
 y, and the way was 
 
 an immense crowd 
 3, to the diplomatic 
 
 )^x, were engaged in 
 vere an English lady 
 ,le front scat for Mr. 
 X soon filled up with 
 I been by ours, 
 lent, M. Grevy, took 
 There was a ninncr- 
 •cat rapidity, oflicial 
 'fcrred, of course, to 
 •e assemblies; while 
 Iconfusion which rcn- 
 by the members ira- 
 day was announced, 
 ther the Assembly, 
 crnmcnt, to make a 
 w accomplished thnt 
 icputy mounted the 
 'liand)er, hushed in 
 to indicate his posi- 
 clamations from the 
 |l by the extremists ; 
 ,m the conservative 
 s with violent objur- 
 
 gations and gesticulations ; the supporters of the speaker rose, 
 vociferously applauding him and denouncing the interruption. I3y 
 some arran2:ement which we did not understand, the reoresentatives 
 of the several political partier. alternated in the tribune. From the 
 moderate republican who began, to the extreme republican sus- 
 pected of communism who opposed, the sagacious and loyal Orlean- 
 ist, the obstinate and impracticable legitimist, to the crafty but 
 non-subdued imperialist — every speaker was received and his utter- 
 ances drowned in the same manner ; except that the more radical 
 republicans awakened a general burst of defiance and denunciation 
 throughout the whole Chamber. The president continually rang 
 his bell, and in some way or other the debate went on intelligibly 
 to him and to the House, but utterly incomprehensible to the audi- 
 ence. 
 
 The stormy scene excited our wonder. In our own Congress, 
 the speaker, rising in his place, utters, in a well-considered and 
 careftd form, an argument which everybody knows Avill be found, 
 the next morning, in the daily press ; will be seized upon and read 
 in every city and district ; and have its proper effect in forming the 
 national opinion, which, reacting on Congress, Avill decide the meas- 
 ure discussed. The House seldom cares to listen, and the mem- 
 bers are engaged in conversation or correspondence. 
 
 This National Assembly of France, on the contrary, seems to 
 regard the debate as a combat in which the question is to be de- 
 cided by the House itself, at once and according to the balance of 
 argument in the heat of passion. "What is still more remarkable il, 
 that all this vehemence, violence, and excitement, is displayed only 
 by members in their places. "We heard Jules Favre, Louis Blanc, 
 Picard, and Gambetta, at the tribune, and their well-constructed 
 and carefully-guarded speeches, read without the least excitement 
 or gesticulation, would, but for their remarkable brevity, have 
 seemed dull and monotonous. 
 
 At the expiration of two hours, the difficulty of reaching an har- 
 monious adjustment amid such tumultuous demonstrations excited 
 an apprehension that the Assembly would break up in disorder, if 
 not with scones of violence ; and that, before long, hostile forces 
 
754 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 might be renewing the civil war, hardly ytt completely suppresi-sed. 
 Some of the European diplomates, in the goUery, declared that 
 France was unequal to her great destiny ; that law, order, govern- 
 ment, and society, can only be preserved through central and abso- 
 lute power. The violent scene now culminated ; the president using 
 his last remedy, announced his determination to dissolve the As- 
 sembly if his appeal to order should be disregarded. This brought 
 the Chamber to a moment of calm reflection.. lie then demanded, 
 from the latest disturber of the debate, a retraction and apology for 
 having indulged in language of insult and threat unbecoming the 
 majesty of debate. The speaker, one perhaps of a hundred who 
 had equally ofl:ended, thus brought singly before the House, ex- 
 plained, regretted, and apologized. Though the House seemed 
 willing to forgive, the president was not satisfied ; he demanded 
 further apology, and it was given. He announced that the debate 
 might now go on, at the peril, however, of the dissolution of the 
 Assembly if the boimds of decorum should be passed. The more 
 judicious speakers 5».>emed to liave reserved themselves for such a 
 crisis. After this every speech, while firm, was conciliatory and 
 full of concern for the public peace, and showed due and deliberate 
 consideration. The danger was over — the National Assembly 
 would not dissolve until the Provisional Government should have 
 more effectually provided for the exigencies of the state. 
 
 The atmosphere of the hall was hot to suffbcation, but all the 
 members remained in their seats, and nearly all the audience. We 
 left to obtain fresh air, and to improve the three or four hours of 
 the day which remained in seeing royal Versailles. An hour later, 
 we were joined by friends whom we had left in the Chamber, who, 
 meeting us in the magnificent gardens of the palace, informed us 
 that the debate had closed ; that the Chamber had adopted, by a de- 
 cisive majority, a dech;ration that their body is itself a constituent 
 Assembly, with all the powers adequate to the government and re- 
 organization of the nation. 
 
 At nine o'clock, Mr. Seward, accompanied by M. GeofFroy, for- 
 merly clmrge d'affaires at Washington, proceeded to the palace of 
 President Thiers, the same which was occupied by the King of 
 
VISIT TO PRESIDENT THIERS. 
 
 755 
 
 Prussia during his sojourn at Yersailles. The guards, ushers, and 
 servants, numerous enough and elegant enough in costume for an 
 imT)erial residence, were in waiting, and Mr. Seward and M. Geof- 
 frey were shown up the grand staircase and through the suite of 
 antechambers only less numerous and magnificent than those of 
 the Vatican, and a series of gorgeous drawing-rooms in which not 
 a soul was visible. Passing through these to the farthest one, they 
 found a lady sitting by an open window. This was Madame 
 Thiers, the amiable wife of the president. Rising, she gave Mr. 
 Seward her hand, and invited him to sit down. Congratulating 
 him on his arrival, she entertained the gentlemen for half an hour 
 with conversation in perfect English. At the opposite side of the 
 room, her sister was conversing with the only other visitor. Dur- 
 ing the evening, four or five gentlemen entered the drawing-room, 
 and were received by Madame Thiers. Half-past ten o'clock came, 
 and Mr. Seward was about taking his leave, when Madame Thiers 
 said that M. Thiers had returned utterly exhausted by the day's 
 debate, and had thrown himself on a sofa for a few minutes' sleep, 
 after which he would join them in the drawing-room. She would 
 waken him at once. Mr. Seward, well appreciating the president's 
 labors during the day, protested that she should not, but Madame 
 Thiers said she was sure that the president woukl be grieved and 
 disappointed. Conducting Mr. Seward across the hall, to an ante- 
 chamber, she brought him to a low, broad sofa, where the weary 
 statesman was snatching his few moments of repose. Mr. Seward 
 begged that he might not be aroused, and insisted on taking his 
 leave. Madame Thiers remained with the president, and, before 
 Mr. Seward had reached the distant drawing-room door, overtook 
 him, with the president, now awakened from his shunbcrs. Mr. 
 Seward saluted him with a compliment expressing his high respect, 
 which M. Thiers receiv ed courteously, and reciprocated by many 
 kind expressions of compliment, and regret that his guest should 
 have been kept waiting. He then invited Mr. Seward to remain 
 all night at the palace, and to bring his faihily next week to remain 
 at Versailles. Mr. Seward, declining the proffered hospital' ty with 
 many thanks, replied that he was to leave Paris next Tuesday, and 
 
756 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 had engagements to dine, which would keep him there on Monday. 
 " To-morrow, tlien," said the president ; " come to-morrow." Mr. 
 Seward promised to do so, returned vith M. Geofiroy to his car- 
 riage, and arrived at Meurice's in the early dawn. 
 
 September 1st. — The Chamber of Deputies yesterday brought to 
 a happy solution the political question which h,'.d so perplexed and 
 alarmed France. They declared that the cxe-^iitive power should 
 remain ^^ ith M. Thiers ; that his titk sliould be thpt of President 
 of the French Republic ; that he should hold his place three years, 
 and have full power to administer the government, being always 
 responsible to the people. All Versailles and all Paris are reas- 
 sured, if not content. 
 
 AVe dined last evening with President Thiers, the party consist- 
 ing of M. Remusat, the Minister of Foreign Affiiirs, M. Geoffrey, 
 and a few of the president's official friends. President Thiers is a 
 short, stout man, looking about seventy-five, remarkably erect and 
 firm. lie has a large and regularly-developed head ; his thick hair, 
 perfectly white and stiff, is cut short and brushed scrupulously off 
 his forehead and over his temples. His eyes are black, but spar- 
 kling and genial, his complexion florid, and even youthful. The 
 heavy folds of his white cravat, and his elegantly-cut, tightly-fitting, 
 closely-buttoned dress-coat make him look as if he had just stepped 
 out of an old Flemish picture ; and, when he speaks, his gentle voice 
 seems less like the commanding utterance of the ruling statesman 
 of a great and convulsed nation, than an (5cho from the past. Ilis 
 conversation is vivacious, and imbued not so much with a sense of 
 gratified ambition as of sanguine hope and confidence in the resto- 
 ration of his country. Explaining to Mr. Seward the reasons which 
 had led the Chamber of Deputies to their late important but unex- 
 pected decision, he said : " The Chamber of Deputies and myself in 
 the present crisis are Siamese twins ; we know that, if we are sep- 
 arated, both must die." At dinner, he proposed the health of Mr. 
 Seward, in a pretty speech, in which he decl.ired that ho regarded 
 it as a presage of his success that Mr. Seward should be bis guest 
 on the first day of his presidency of the French Republic. 
 
DINNEPw AT TRESIDENT TIIIERS'S. 
 
 757 
 
 there on Monday. 
 Mr. 
 
 to-morrow 
 
 ^eoftVoy to his car- 
 
 1. 
 
 cstcrday brought to 
 .d so perplexed and 
 utive power should 
 )e thjit of President 
 is place three years, 
 imcnt, being always 
 I all Paris are reas- 
 
 ;rs, the party consist- 
 Affairs, M. Gcoffroy, 
 President Thiers is a 
 remarhably erect and 
 , head ; his thick hair, 
 shed scrupulously off 
 are black, but spar- 
 leven youthful. The 
 ly-cut, tightly-fitting, 
 jif he had just stepped 
 l^eahs, his gentle voice 
 the ruling statesman 
 from the past. His 
 [much with a sense of 
 .nfidence in the resto- 
 i,rd the reasons which 
 important but uncx- 
 leputies and myself in 
 ,wthat, ifwearescp- 
 lsed the health of Mr. 
 Irtred that he regarded 
 should be bis guest 
 'h Kcpublic. 
 
 Mr. Seward replied that, though France had before attempted 
 the republican experiment, he regarded the present as the first real 
 establishment of that system of government in France. lie re- 
 minded M. Thiers that his fortune was peculiar as it was felicitous ; 
 that he was chosen president not at the command, nor under the 
 influence of a standing army, but only as a civilian and statesman. 
 He hoped that M. Thiers might remain president as long as Wash- 
 ington, and have a line of successors as long and as virtuous. More 
 than thir lo statesman ought to expect, or might dare to desire. 
 
 The president spoke of the difliculties of the position, and of the 
 obstinate distraction of opinion in France, so unlike any thing that 
 is known in the iJnited States. 
 
 Mr. Seward said in reply : "My hopes for France in the present 
 crisis are founded on two very antagonistic grounds. First, that 
 the people of France are universally discouraged I have not heard 
 one hopeful expression from any man, of any party, in Versailles 
 or Paris, except yourself. Second, you are sanguine enough to in- 
 spire the public with confidence. It is fortunate that all parties 
 excepting the republicans have exhausted the public confidence. 
 The imperialists, having lost the battle-field, on which the integrity 
 of France is at stake, have forfeited the right to guide public opin- 
 ion. The two royalist parties have not regained the vitality lost 
 years ago. The republican party, altnough it smarts now, as it has 
 done on so many previous occasions, unjustly, under the reponsi- 
 bility of the fraternization with it of the worst and lowest political 
 elements of Europe, still has command of the field. France will 
 now, I think, accept the republic, not because she is yet prepared 
 to love or trust it, but because she has sufticicntly tried and proved 
 the impracticability of the kingdom and the empire." 
 
 Madame Thiers and her sister are highly-accomplished ladies, 
 with more vivdcity than, and quite as practical and energetic as the 
 most practical of, our countrywomen. 
 
 After dinner, there was a general and distinguished reception 
 of visitors, who had come to congratulate the president. Among 
 these were the papal nuncio, the Prince de Chigi Albani, Lord 
 Lyons, Prince Metternich, Mr. Washburne, cardinals, archbishops, 
 
 49 
 
758 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 bishops, generals, admirals, deputies from all sides of the Chamber, 
 and many ladies. 
 
 It was suggestive of thought to see this plain civilian, this in- 
 depender :nian, who virtually had been proscribed by all 
 
 parties foi Liiity years, now, at the united command of the Frencli 
 nation, called to its head to redeem it from the dangers and dis- 
 asters into which it had fallen by rejecting his wise, disinterested, 
 and patriotic advice. 
 
 •^1 
 
 
 September Mh. — It is a consequence of the extraordinary condi- 
 tion of France at the present moment that society of all kinds is 
 broken up at Paris. The timid and prudent citizens, not yet as- 
 sured of peace, have not returned to the city. The imperial court 
 is dispersed, the Communists are suppressed, and the dominant 
 party is with the government at Versailles. At the same time 
 nothing is considered permament there. It is only a provisional 
 government at best, and tho Chamber is already distracted by the 
 question of the removal of tlie government to Paris. This condi- 
 tion, however, is perhaps not vmfavorable to a study of the political 
 tendencies of the times. "We, of course, meet persons of all par- 
 ties. It has been a pleasure to again see M. Henri Mercicr, former 
 French minister at Washington, and his successor, the Marquis de 
 Montholon, always cordial and friendly in his good wishes for the 
 United States. It is a source of much regret that we do not meet 
 Signor Pertinatti, formerly Ittilian minister at Washington, always 
 so true, earnest, and sympathetic. He is now Italian minister at the 
 Hague, and writes that he has been making preparations to receive 
 us there. Put the time intervening before our embarkation for 
 home is so short that we shall be unable to visit Holland. An in- 
 terview of especial interest was that with M. Drouyn de Lluiys, 
 who was the successor of M. Thouvenel as Minister of Forciirn 
 Affairs at Paris during our civil war, but was replaced later by M. 
 Lavallette. M. Drouyn de Lhuys is a gentlemen of fortune, now 
 residing at Paris, unemployed, and the newspapers are disjtutini? 
 the probabilities of his being called to office by President Thiers. 
 He is a tall, stout man, not much, if at all, beyond sixty, with a mas- 
 
DROUYX DE LIIUYS. 
 
 759 
 
 3S of the Chamber, 
 
 in civilian, this in- 
 proseribcd by all 
 land of the French 
 e dangers and dis- 
 wise, disinterested, 
 
 sivc head, an open countenance, a very kindly as well as intellectual 
 expression, and manners at once courtly, franlc, and simple. Ho 
 speaks English (piite well. The conversation ranged on topics far 
 and wide, its chief one being the relations between France and the 
 United States past and present. M. Drouyn de Lhuys, though in 
 the ministry during the period when he had to treat with the ques- 
 tions growing out of the French expedition to Mexico, M'as not 
 
 extraordinary condi- 
 ciety of all kinds is 
 citizens, not yet as- 
 The imperial court 
 , and the dominant 
 At the same time 
 s only a provisional 
 idy distracted by the 
 3 Paris. This condi- 
 study of the political 
 t persons of all par- 
 icnri Mercier, former 
 issor, the Marquis de 
 good wishes for the 
 that we do not meet 
 Washington, always 
 talian minister at the 
 i-eparations to receive 
 lour embarkation for 
 sit Holland. An in- 
 :. Drouyn de Lhuys, 
 Minister of Foreign 
 replaced later by M. 
 ■men of fortune, now 
 ^japers are disputiiii? 
 by President Thiers. 
 ,ud sixty, with a mas- 
 
 DKOUYN DE UIUV8. 
 
 engaged in the incepaon of that enterprise, and, indeed, had always 
 been opposed to it. lie is the only statesman, excepting President 
 Thiers, whom we have met here that seems hopeful of France. He 
 says tiie worst part of the road is passed. France must give up her 
 dream of national aggrandizement and military glory, which are 
 the sources of all her misfortunes. He thinks that she will do so, 
 and will rise to a higher position than ever. 
 
760 
 
 EDROrE. 
 
 It hfis been an especial pleasure to make the personal acquaint- 
 ance of M. Laboulayc, who is now a prouiincnt republican menib( r 
 of the National Assembly. lie was a warm well-wisher of tlio 
 United States duriii'c our war, and his " Paris in America " has 
 been read with interest thronghout the United States. lie seems 
 depressed about the })rcscnt state of France. 
 
 Acknowledging the cheering encouragement which M. ]^abou- 
 laye had given us in our civil conflict, we thought it our turn to in- 
 spire him with courage about the situation of France. The cases 
 are not entirely dilFercnt. In the United States, wo wanted to 
 abolish slaverv, and to save the Union. Either motive was enouuli 
 of itself to make a party, but it was difficult to create a party that 
 would accept both as practicable. It is just so now in Franvc. 
 The French want a republic, and wish to preserve the integrity and 
 prestige of France, but are unable to see how both can be done by 
 the same party at the same time. One may be assured, however, 
 that, each being right and just in itself, both objects will be se- 
 cured, and the time has come when they must be secured to- 
 gether. 
 
 Sej)teml)er ^th. — One of the effects of the acquisition of absohitc 
 power seems to be an isolation, which can only be relieved by tlie 
 adoption of unofficial, perhaps obscure persons, as friends, who by 
 merit or address become favorites — a relation which, although it is 
 sometimes a useful, is often an unpopular one. Dr. Evans, an 
 American dentist, was early accepted in that character by Napoleon 
 soon after the coup cVctat. Through his long professional service 
 he received frequent and valuable tokens of the emperor's regard. 
 If it had been doubted whether he did not exaggerate the measure 
 of imperial fiivor he enjoyed, those doubts were entirely removed 
 during our civil war, when, on two occasions, Dr. Evans came to 
 the Department of State at Washington, with confidential messages 
 and inquiries from the Emperor of France. While these messages 
 were received, they were, of course, fully made known to the presi- 
 dent, and responded to by his authority. At the same +imc, tlic 
 execution of the trust by the doctor was in all respects moderate 
 
DK. EVANS. 
 
 761 
 
 personal acqua'mt- 
 cpublicau nicinl)^">' 
 vvcU-wiBlicr of tbo 
 in America" hi^^ 
 Btates. lie seems 
 
 t whicli M. La\)ou- 
 [it it our turn to iu- 
 Franee. The cascrt 
 ates, wo wanted to 
 
 motive was enough 
 3 create a party that 
 
 so now in France, 
 rve the integrity and 
 both can be done i).y 
 be assured, however, 
 h objects will be sc- 
 must be secured to- 
 
 icquisitionofabsohitc 
 ily be relieved by the 
 [is, as friends, who by 
 which, although it is 
 lonc. Dr. Evans, an 
 •haracter by Kapoleou 
 L professional service 
 jthe emperor's regard. 
 ;aggerate the mcasm-c 
 IvcTe entirely removed 
 .s, Dr. Evans came to 
 confidential mcssa<?es 
 I While these messages 
 lie known to the pvcsi- 
 [vt the same +inic, the 
 all respects moderate 
 
 and becoming. It is duo also to the emperor to say that all his 
 personal messages, of that kind received, were frank, and no expec- 
 tation raised by them was ever disappointed. Under these circum- 
 stances, our visit to Paris alfordcd a pleasant renewal of acquaint- 
 ance with Dr. Evans, and it was a satisfaction to lind that, in the 
 disasters which overtook the imj)erial family, there was no loss of 
 lidelity on the one side nor of confidence on the other. It was in- 
 teresting to hear Dr. Evans's account of the empress's escape from 
 France, a transaction in which he took an important part. 
 
 After the battle of Sedan left Napoleon III. a prisoner of war, 
 and the empire prostrate, the imperial ministers and members of 
 the Corps Ugislatif v\\&\\q(S. at once to the empress regent, at the 
 Tuileries, and told her that she must fly, without an instant's de- 
 lay. At seven in the evening, attended by one lady, she left the 
 palace by a side-door, where they called a common fiacre. They 
 drove in this up the Champs Elysees^ a mile or more, stopped in 
 the street, dismissed the vehicle, walked a square or two, took an- 
 oi\\er Jiacre and drove to Dr. Evans's door, and rang the bell. Mrs. 
 Evans was absent. The doctor was entertaining some friends at din- 
 ner, entirely ignorant of the great political transactions of the day. 
 A servant went to him and whispered to him that a lady, at the 
 door, said she must see him, and could not be put off. The doctor 
 returned answer that he was at dinner and could not leave the 
 table. The empress, not to be repulsed, walked through the open 
 door into the office. Learning this, the doctor excused himself, 
 and went to see who the intruder mis-ht be : imagine his astonish- 
 ment and dismay at finding the empress, and hearing hei exclaim, 
 " Doctor, you must save me ! " 
 
 Few words of explanation were necessary. The Empress Euge- 
 nie, like Marie Antoinette, had made good her escape from the 
 Tuileries alone, but with his aid only could she now escape from 
 Paris, and find an asylum in a foreign country. Leaving the em- 
 press and her attendant in a room with closed doors, Dr. Evans, as 
 soon as possible, dismissed his friends ; and, without even informing 
 his servants of his purpose, went to his stables, ordered his own 
 carriage, and engaged a friend to go with him. The two ladies 
 
'62 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 remained unseen until two o'clock in the morning, when the car- 
 riage drove to the door. The empress was in the mourning wliich 
 the court had worn since the reverses of the French arms. The 
 black crtpe bonnet might excite attention ; she laid it aside, and, 
 in its place, took a simple round hat of Mrs. Evans's. Then, witli 
 her lady attendant and Dr. Evans, she entered the carriage : the 
 friend rode on the box. The streets were thronged with excited 
 crowds, who, however, paid no attention to the unostentatious 
 equipage of the fugitives. Arrived at the city gate, it was found 
 in charge of a republican guard, who demanded the names of the 
 travellers. The doctor gave his own name, address, and profes- 
 sion ; and, remarking that great events were occurring in Paris, 
 handed the guard a morning paper, and drove on. 
 
 Travelling all day, they reached at night a village where Mrs. 
 Evans was staying, who supplied the empress with apparel moi-e 
 suitable for a voyage across the Channel. Arriving finally at tlie 
 coast, the doctor procured from an Englishman the loan of his 
 yacht, and they embarked near Trouville, a short distance south of 
 Havre, at midnight. After a fearful passage of twenty hours, in 
 a heavy sea, they finally efiected their landing on the hospitable 
 British shore. Dr. Evans's first duty, on arriving in England, Avas 
 to relieve the mother's anxiety for Louis, the prince imperial, who 
 so soon after Saarbriick was privately sent from the scene of war 
 by the emperor. He found his way to the prince, in spite of the 
 guard, who distrusted the visitor. The prince, on seeing him, at 
 once exclaimed, " Where is my mother 2 " The doctor could 
 scarcely suppress his emotion when he concluded his narrative by 
 saying : " I conducted the empress to him, and, when I witnessed 
 their embrace, and heard their exclamations, ' Louis ! ' ' Mannua ! ' 
 I felt that my mission, not only for this emergency, but for life, 
 was accomplished." 
 
 How unable we are to judge of the reality and magnitude of a 
 danger when it has been safely escaped 1 Many, perhaps, believe 
 that the empress might have safely remained at the Tuileries; but 
 when we remember the violence of the Communists — the murder 
 of the Archbishop of Paris, and other atrocities during and after 
 
THE MlSFOllTUNES OF FRANCE. 
 
 TCP, 
 
 the siege of the city — there is every reason to be th.ankful that her 
 escape saved maddened Paris from a cruel and atrocious crime. 
 
 Septemher hth. — It remains for us only to acknowledge the gen- 
 erous and elegant hospitalities which were extended to us b}' our 
 friend Mr. Washburne, United States minister, and the United 
 States consul-general Mr. Head, Mr. Appleton, and many oilier 
 Americans. It is with sincere pride that we learn that their calm 
 courage and fortitude during the political crisis at the capital won 
 for them universal esteem and confidence. 
 
 Paris, as we leave it, wears a sad and despairing aspect. All 
 parties are humiliated alike in the overthrow of a military prestige 
 that they trace back with pride to Louis XIV., and even to Charle- 
 magne ; in the payment of indemnities as great as the most rapa- 
 cious of French armies ever extorted from foreign states ; and in 
 the loss of territories which were at once a resource and an in- 
 valuable line of defence. Moreover, no party indulges any san- 
 guine hope of a renewal of the prestige and power that have been 
 lost. For all this, however, we leave France with stronger hope 
 than ever in its future. The people of Franco are generous, per- 
 haps the most generous in the world. If they have been diverted 
 from the more prudent path of national development to pursue the 
 career of military glory, even that is a fault kindred to national 
 virtue. For seventy years France has been the chief tlu^atre of the 
 struggles for the establishment of the republic in Europe. If she 
 has failed hitherto to achieve it, two things arc to be considered in 
 extenuation : First, that only one country in Europe has estabHshed 
 it — namely, Switzerland ; and, second, that Switzerland is embar- 
 rassed by none of the grave difficulties which surround France. It 
 was the misfortune of France that the Protestant Reformation 
 failed there, while it succeeded in the northern parts of the Conti- 
 nent and in Great Britain. It was alike the misfortune of Franco 
 that she was called to accept the republic while ns yet the principle 
 of despotic power was unbroken and unshaken throughout the 
 Continent. Still further, it was her misfortune that the sway of 
 the republic has been incompatible with the contest which she has 
 
764 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 i 
 
 n 
 
 necessarily been obliged to hold against a despotic combination. 
 But all these difficulties arc passed at last. The French nation no 
 longer excites the fears or has motives for provoking the hostility 
 of other nations. Left at liberty to retrieve her national disasters, 
 all her energies will be applied to that purpose. The promptness 
 with which her people meet the financial exigencies of their trying 
 situation proves that her resources are adequate. On the other 
 hand, such is the influence of France everywhere in Europe that 
 every new step which she makes in popular government demoralizes 
 all the nations who have been her rivals and her enemies. Bis- 
 marck and his imperial master have manifested the highest sagacity 
 and ability in humiliating France from her position as the first 
 Continental power of Europe, and raising Germany to that proud 
 place. But not only Bismarck and the Kaiser, but also the King 
 of Italy, and the Emperor of Austria, and the Czar of Russia, and 
 even the statesmen of England, will probably fi' .i it a nmch more 
 difficult task to hold their respective countries back from the disor- 
 ganizing ways of republicanism if France shall persevere Mnsely in 
 that direction. The bugbear of Europe to-day is communism, as 
 it is the fear of France. Communism is, nevertheless, in Franco a 
 manageable evil. It is the protest of the laborers of France, now 
 largely educated, against the conscription and military service which 
 has been a social calnmity ever since her great Revolution. The 
 agitation of communism will not cease either in France or in anv 
 other European country so long as ten millions of the laboring 
 population of the Continent are withdrawn from productive occupa- 
 tion to become consumers. On the other hand, the ecclesiastical 
 institutions and prejudices of Europe are so much broken down 
 that the republic has no strong obstacle anywhere but the standing 
 armies. Let these, by whatever means, be replaced by a voluntary 
 and moderate militia force, and every European state will slide at 
 once into the republican system as easily, as gracefully, and as 
 safely, as Switzerland and the United States have already. 
 
Gspotic combination, 
 le French nation no 
 evoking the hostility 
 ler national disasters, 
 )se. The promptness 
 ;encie8 of their trying 
 luate. On the other 
 dicre in Europe that 
 vcrnment demoralizes 
 id her enemies. Bis- 
 •d the highest sagacity 
 ■ position as the iirst 
 Germany to that proud 
 ser, but also the King 
 [le Czar of Russia, and 
 ly fi' ^ it a nmch more 
 3S back from the disor- 
 all persevere wisely in 
 day is communism, us 
 vertheless, in France a 
 Iborers of France, now- 
 military service which 
 ■eat Revolution. Tho 
 r in France or in any 
 lillions of the laboring 
 ■om productive occupa- 
 and, the ccclesiasticul 
 |o much broken down 
 here but the standing 
 iplaccd by a voluntary 
 lean state Avill slide at 
 as gracefully, and as 
 lavc already. 
 
 CHAPTER Y. 
 
 GERMANY, ENGLAND, AND HOME. 
 
 Belgium. — Berlin. — Mr. Bancroft. — Humboldt. — Tho German Empire. — Its Rise and 
 Grandeur. — Its Policy. — Hamburg. — A Free City. — A Ilandsonic City. — On the 
 Thames. — Activity of its Commerce. — Greatness of London. — Government Machinery 
 in Great Britain. — Its Slow Working. — Rural Beauty of England. — On Board the 
 Java. — Her Passengers. — Montrosc-on-Hudson. — Return to Auburn. — Mr. Seward's 
 Speech to his Neighbors. 
 
 Cologne., Septemher 6th. — Out of France — across Belgium — and 
 on the Rhine, all in twelve hours 1 
 
 Belgium realizes to the traveller its well-known character for 
 density of population, and i-ctive, inventive industry. It is Avonder- 
 fid how arts, and even freedom, flourish within this little state, 
 which for two thousand years has almost continually been the battle- 
 ground of the ambitions of tl\e great European nations. If we re- 
 member rightly, there are few ] Belgian immigrants in America. As 
 we passed through to Liege and its rural districts, so full of busy 
 activity, contentment, and even gayety, we wondered that there 
 should be any. 
 
 Bedui, Septeiiiber Sih. — Wc {'.rrivcd horo last evening. "We 
 liave seen of Germany enough to sl\ow that its climate is neither so 
 f];cnial, nor its soil so fertile, nor its resources of forest and mines 
 so rich as those of Southern Alask;v; nevertheless, it is rich and 
 prosiierous through the perseverance of its jicople. 
 
 It is a political and social vacation at Berlin. The emperor- 
 king and the empress, the princes and B'smarck, arc absent. Baron 
 
166 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 C5 
 
 Gerolt, so lon^ the respected and beloved Prussian and German 
 minister at Washington, is now at Berlin, and it is a pleasure to 
 meet him here. 
 
 Mr. Bancroft met us at the station, and has given us a delight- 
 ful and quiet home at the legation, on the favorite avenue, " Unter 
 den Linden." He enjoys the respect and consideration here which 
 he so eminently deserves. Mr. Bancroft is a distinguished excej)- 
 tion to the rule that great scholars fail of being practical statesmen. 
 
 As might be expected, the air of Berlin is as triumphant as that 
 of Paris is sad and despondent. We noticed in Paris that the alle- 
 gorical statue of Strasbourg, in the Place de la Concorde^ was cov- 
 ered with mourning weeds. So we must not omit to mention that 
 an allegorical group has been erected here, representing Germany 
 receiving with open arms her returning daughters, Alsace and Lor- 
 raine. 
 
 The streets of Berlin wear the aspect of a newly-built or modern 
 city. While it has none as fine as Fifth Avenue, there is a uniform 
 solidity and elegance whicli we have not yet attained in the United 
 States. In activity, industry, and trade, Berlin contrasts strongly 
 with Paris in its present condition, as well as with Naples and 
 Florence. The parks arc well shaded and extensive, but less im- 
 posing than those of Vienna, and it would be difficult to decide be- 
 tween the two cities in regard to the general appearance of activity 
 and vivacitv. 
 
 In one of the streets of Mexico there is this inscription on <i 
 marble tablet: "In this house Humboldt dwelt." Wc are told of a 
 similar inscription on the house he lived in here. We have scarcely 
 accustomed ourselves to think of society in Berlin without the ele- 
 vating and genial presence of the greatest philosopher of our ago. 
 
 We have had the honor of meeting M. Thilc, the acting Min- 
 ister of Foreign Affairs, Dr. Banke, the venerable historian, and 
 several of the celebrated savants for whom Berlin is so justly dis- 
 tinguished. 
 
 In the history of civilization there has been nothing more won- 
 derful than the development of the German Empire. Brandenbur"^, 
 the feeblest of perhaps forty inconsiderable states, a state without 
 
r> 
 
 l;k^.J4<^.. J. 
 
 TRUSSIA. 
 
 T67 
 
 •nssian and German 
 1 it is a pleasure to 
 
 i iriven us a dcliglit- 
 >rite avenue, " Unter 
 jideration liere which 
 distinguished excei> 
 rr practical statesmen. 
 fis triumphant as that 
 in Paris that the alle- 
 la Concorde, was cov- 
 omit to mention that 
 epresenting Germany 
 liters, Alsace and Lor- 
 
 newly-built or modern 
 
 lue, there is a uniform 
 
 ,ttamed in the United 
 
 •lin contrasts strongly 
 
 as with Naples and 
 jxtensive, but less im- 
 
 difficult to decide he- 
 appearance of activity 
 
 this inscription on a 
 elt." We are told of a 
 3re. We have scarcely 
 berlin without the cle- 
 lilosopher of our age. 
 ^hile, the acting Min- 
 icrable historian, and 
 Berlin is so justly dis- 
 
 L nothing more won- 
 Inpire. Brandcnburo;, 
 1 states, a state without 
 
 numbers, military force, arts, or science, two hundred years ago had 
 the courage to challenge a place among the countries of Europe. ]3y 
 the adoption of a military system, at that time essential to every 
 power, but more rigorous than any other, ancient or modern, by the 
 skilful development of resources, and by the practice of parsimony 
 so great as to provoke ridicule, by constancy in resisting aggression, 
 and boldness in taking advantage of opportunity, this little king- 
 dom of Brandenburg, in the forty-six years of the reign of Frederick 
 the Great, doubled its territory and population, and rose to the 
 attitude of one of the great Continental powers. Harassed, suh- 
 jugated, and ravaged in the Napoleonic wars, Prussia only applied 
 herself all the more devotedly and energetically to the increase of 
 her strength and resources. With a sagacity which has had no 
 prototype, she originated a new philosophy, an original lif.^rature, 
 and schools of nmsic and criticism. With this intellectuu. progress 
 Prussia has had the wisdom to combine moral and social culture, 
 equality of rights, personal freedom, and rigid justice of administra- 
 tion, which have won for her the grateful sympathy and affection 
 of other German states. At least since the time of Frederick, 
 Prussia has practised an eminently wise and just moderation. 
 Content with an attitude always of self-defence, and to wait for 
 provocation, she reserved her strength, until the intolerable preten- 
 sions of Austria required a contest with that power, which resulted 
 in her bringing under her protecting flag, with their consent, the 
 North-German states around her, while she neutralized the South- 
 Gennan states, formerly dependencies of her rival. Nothing in 
 politics is m.ore calmly sublime than the deportment of Prussia 
 when that recent great aggrandizement excited the jeai .is alarna 
 of France. France secretly proposed to favor the extension of 
 North-German jurisdiction over tho South-German states on condi- 
 tion that Prussia would consent that France should absorb Bel- 
 gium. Prussia refused. France then sought offence in the offer of 
 the Spanish Cortes of the throne of that country to a prince of the 
 house of Ilohenzollern. The Prussian Government disavowed, and, 
 when that fjiiled, the prince declined, but the empire of France 
 would have an insult when the original cause of r-omplaint had 
 
768 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 been removed. So the emperor instructed his minister, who of- 
 fended the dignity of the Prussian sovereign, and was dismissed 
 for it. Then France declared war. Prussia came into a war, the 
 only one, perhaps, of modern times in which the advantages, moral 
 and physical, were combined on the same side — a just cause, a de- 
 fensive position, convenient preparation, and the strongest military 
 power. There is one circumstance in this great event peculiarly 
 gratifying to the United States, and which cannot but prove useful 
 to the world. It seems as if the process of renaissance in any 
 nation begets a sympathy and friendship for the American Repub- 
 lic. "We do not know the secret of the great Frederick's sympathy 
 with the United States, in their Revolution. lie was a capricious 
 man, and had a proclivity for French philosophy and politics, and 
 a dislike for England. "Whatever may have been the cause, he 
 was an admirer of our institutions, and in 178G made with us a 
 treaty, based on an acknowledgment of the highest rights of man. 
 Through all her own vicissitudes and ours, Prussia has adhered to 
 the policy and sentiments of Frederick, in regard to the United 
 States. Prussia was the first of the European powers to join us in 
 a policy of justice and liberality toward Mexico. Prussia was the 
 first of the European states to acknowledge the American principle 
 of freedom of naturalization and denationalization. "With Russia 
 Blie has been a faithful friend, and, like Switzerland, she has en- 
 grafted on her own political system the American principle of gov- 
 ernment by confederation of states. It is a proud thing to see thai; 
 system established by the most powerful of the states on the Euro- 
 pean Continent. It promises nothing less, though perhaps in a 
 distant future, than the abolition of military despotism for main- 
 taining the balance of power. Germany, if her magnanimity shall 
 be equal to her prosperity, will be content hereafter to promote 
 the welfare of mankind, through the arts of peace, rather than to 
 seek greater dominion by war and violence. 
 
 Tlamhwg, SoptomJjsp ^'■Ith. — Crossing the river Spree, passing 
 pi'ctty Charlottenburg, and reaching the Ilavcl, we leave behind 
 us the suburban cultivation and taste of Berlin, and enter on a 
 
IIAM13URG. 
 
 769 
 
 s minister, wlio of- 
 and wa3 dismissed 
 amc into a war, the . 
 le advantages, moral 
 —a just cause, a dc- 
 le strongest military 
 •cat event peculiarly 
 not but prove useful 
 ■ renaissance in any 
 he American Repub- 
 Fredcrick's sympathy 
 He was a capricious 
 phy and politics, and 
 3 been the cause, he 
 L786 made with us a 
 lighcst rights of man. 
 »russia has adhered to 
 regard to the United 
 1 powers to join us in 
 _ico. Prussia was the 
 le American principle 
 zation. With Faissia 
 tzcrland, she has en- 
 ican principle of gov- 
 •oud thing to see thai 
 lie states on the Euro- 
 though perhaps in a 
 despotism for main- 
 cr magnanimity shall 
 hereafter to promote 
 Hpeace, rather than to 
 
 river Spree, passnig 
 
 l^cl, we leave behind 
 
 jrllu, and enter on a 
 
 plain wheie sand and marsh intermingle. Only Germans could 
 utilize a soil so worthless, but they use it in every way. For cen- 
 turies the writing-world has relied upon these plains for their 
 goose-quills. Of national frontiers, there have been more than 
 enough on this plain. These boundaries have now become merely 
 departmental divisiors of the German Empire. AVe came to the 
 Elbe at Wittenberg, and followed its banks to Hamburg. 
 
 You realize, on tie moment of arrival at Hamburg, that you 
 are in a free city. No demand of passports, and no custom-house 
 inspection of luggage, no espionage, no intrusive curiosity. Ham- 
 burg is not so majestic as Vienna, so poetic as Venice, so classic as 
 Florence, nor so elegant as Paris, and yet it is a rich and beautiful 
 city, pleasant to look upon. With exquisite art, they have gath- 
 ered the rapid little Alster, no larger than the cast branch of the 
 Potomac at Bladensburg, into pretty crystal lakes, lending a Vene- 
 etian charm to the beautiful palaces and villas of the merchant- 
 princes which crown the shores. And Hamburg has one beauty 
 which even Venice lias not — the beauty of broad and oi-namented 
 lawTis and gardens. But the Germans arc a practical people, and 
 the beauty of Hamburg is its smallest boast. A commercial city, 
 the oldest of Northern Europe, it is the only one that has never 
 known a decline of prestige. The early commerce of the Elbe 
 was lost, like that of the Mediterranean ports, as a consequence of 
 the discoveries of Columbus and Vasco de Gama. But it has been 
 cftectually replaced by a richer and more comprehensive one. The 
 flags of all nations are here, and vessels from all ports crowd the 
 channel. Hamburg's most profitable commerce is that which is at 
 the same time most beneficial to the United States. It is the chief 
 port of emigration. Our glimpses of Germany, though they have 
 been hasty, have modified our o])inion on the character of this emi- 
 o-ration. The German emigrants go, not so much to escape from 
 want, as from a spirit of emulation and improvement. 
 
 Here, under the api)rehension of inclement" weather on land, 
 ;md winter-storms at sea, v/e reluctantly relinquish our projected 
 journey through Denmark and Sweden to Russia. Our explora- 
 tion of four continents ends to-day. We embark on the steamer 
 
 m- 
 
n 
 
 M 
 fi 
 
 t) 
 
 ?^ 
 
ON THE THAMES. 
 
 771 
 
 Berlin. Her cabins are filled with merchants and their families 
 who two days hence will be undistinguishable in the streets of 
 London, and her decks are crowded with sheep which will be 
 served up to them as real " Soiitiidown mutton." 
 
 
 < 
 
 W^^ 
 
 On the Thames, Sejptember lUh. — The broad estuary contracts 
 so rapidly as to bring into view the coast outline. Before reach- 
 ing Gravesend, the activity of the shipping impresses you with the 
 conviction that you are approaching the greatest commercial mart 
 of the world. Steamers, pouring out clouds of black smoke, are 
 crossing in what seems a maze. Sailing-vessels, with a foir wind, 
 are passing upward, and vessels with sails furled are towed by tugs 
 down the river. The undulating shores appear, on which trees, 
 orchards, gardens, and lawns, relieve the brown of autumn. On 
 our left is the entrance of the Medway, on our right the harbors 
 of Lea and Thames Haven. Steam seems to be a despot on land 
 as well as on the water. Stationary engines at docks, wharves, 
 manufactories, locomotive-engines hurrying to and from London, 
 meet your eyes everywhere. We passed the Great F astern, at an- 
 chor, in dignified retirement. At the beginning of our war it was 
 suggested to buy this noble vessel. It was a conclusive objection 
 that, although she could carry ten thousand troops, she could not 
 reach a laiiding-place in the insurgent States. Equally impracti- 
 cable for commerce, she proved her adaptation to only one of the 
 enterprises of the day, but that perhaps the noblest of them all — 
 the laying of ocean telegraphic cables. 
 
 Entering the great marine gate-way of England, every thing 
 seems in strong and cheerful contrast to the countries where we 
 have been. No Indian wigwam, no heathen temple, no mosque, 
 no Catholic or Greek cathedral, no fortification, no grotesque cos- 
 tumes, no half-clad or naked savages, Arabs, serfs, fellahs, or coolies 
 —only on shore a universal manufacture^ and on the water merchant- 
 vessels, bearing the world's exchanges, and ships-of-war to defend 
 and protect them — no despotic nor imperial nor feudal power — the 
 law supreme and equal — London shows, at the first glance, that it 
 is the great heart of human activity. Every enterprise of war or 
 
772 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 peace, every campaign, canal, and railroad, on either continent of 
 this great globe, derives from London the credit which is its life. 
 
 The river contracts. Gravesend, Woolwich, White ]3ait Tav- 
 ern, the Dreadnaught, Nelson's flag ship at Trafalgar, all crowd 
 last upon us. 
 
 And now we give up our keys to the polite custom-hous(! 
 officer, who is content with the pretence of search. And now we 
 leave the steamer, and study, as we drive on, the scenes of low Lon- 
 don life, not the illustrations of Cruikshanlc, but the actual charac- 
 ters portrayed by " Boz." Here is Captain Cuttle, and there is the 
 little wooden midshipman at the door of Solomon Gill's shop. Here 
 is Quilp's figure-head, and here is Susan Nipper, and even little 
 Nell. We go on through the city, we turn up Bishopsgate Street, 
 and pass the Tower and St. Paul's, and so on through crowded 
 Cheapside, Charing Cross, and Covent Garden, and St. James's, 
 until we stop at last at Teuton's Hotel. Who could have expected 
 to sec all London before reaching his lodgings ? 
 
 London, Septeniber lUh. — As for writing observations upon 
 London and England so familiarly known by tradition, history, 
 poetry, romance, and the drama, to say notLing of travellers' books 
 — as for doing this in the short space of seven days, we are not 
 going to try. 
 
 Mr. Seward spent the morning in Downing Street with Mr. 
 Plammond, the experienced Under Secretary of State for Forei'^n 
 Affairs, and the no less accomplished Mr. Merivale, Under Secretary 
 for India. With the former he discussed tlie policy of the Western 
 nations in regard to China, and seemed to please the latter by the 
 testimony he bore to the prudent, wise, and beneficent administra- 
 tion of Earl Mayo, Lord Napier, and Sir AVilliam Muir. 
 
 The various bureaux seem to show that the machinery of ad- 
 ministration in Great Britain has been contrived to secure caution 
 and deliberation at the expense of time ; while in the United States 
 the more simple constitution of the departments gives greater 
 promptness and dispatch, at ihe risk, perhaps, of precipitancy. Wc 
 no longer wonder at the blunder of the British Government in fail 
 
ENGLISH RURAL LIFE. 
 
 773 
 
 iitlicr continent of 
 whicli is its life. 
 White r>ait Tav- 
 'rafalgar, all crowd 
 
 )oritc custom-honsti 
 ivcli. And now wc 
 ic scenes of low Lon- 
 it tlic actual clmrac- 
 ittle, and tlicre is the 
 on Gill's shop. Here 
 iper, and even little 
 ) Bisliopss^ate Street, 
 on tlirougli crowded 
 len, and St. James's, 
 ) could have expected 
 
 5'^ 
 
 bv 
 
 observations upon 
 tradition, history, 
 g of travellers' books 
 wn days, we are not 
 
 ning Street with Mr. 
 of State for Foreign 
 ivale, Under Secretary 
 policy of the Western 
 case the latter by the 
 beneficent administra- 
 
 iam Muir. 
 
 the machinery of ad- 
 ■ived to secure caution 
 le in the United States 
 [tments gives greater 
 
 , of precipitancy. ^^ c 
 
 ;h Government in fail 
 
 ing to stop the Alabama, when we see that no secretary could 
 move in that question until ho had the studied oi)ini()ii of the "law 
 advisers of the crov/n." The Government of the United States has 
 only one Icg.d adviser, the Attorney-General, Avho sits in the Cab- 
 inet, and advises, like other heads of departments, without having 
 questions specially referred to him, except on extraordinary occa- 
 sions. 
 
 The Council for India, the Council for the Colonies, the Hoard 
 of Trade, and the other administrative councils, are each of them 
 a numerous body, and examine and pronounce upon every ques- 
 tion, before the presiding minister takes action. In this complex 
 machinery the British (.lovernuicnt docs not differ from all tho 
 other governments of Europe. Hence tho tedious and vexatious 
 delays which have brought diplomacy under popular suspicion and 
 reproach. 
 
 It is only in parts of France, and in England, and the United 
 States, that rural life has an aspect of contentment and happiness. 
 While the dwellinsrs of the rich landholders here immeasurablv sur- 
 pass, in magnificence as well as numbers, the most ambitious rural 
 residences in the United States, the villages and cottages of the 
 peasantry, on the other hand, hold no comparison with the cheerful 
 rural towns and comfortable dwellings of the American larmers. 
 But the minute subdivision and high cultivation of tho fields, to- 
 gether with the general elegance of plantations and gardens, give 
 to the landscape of England an air of repose, comfort, health, and 
 beauty, which, as yet, has not been approached among us. To these 
 attractions the 1; istorlcal associations, as well as those of poetry and 
 romance, impart an additional charm. 
 
 Wc think the impression that London makes upon an Amer- 
 ican, who sees more of political, commercial, and social activity 
 and energy at home, is one of dulness and monotony, leading 
 him to wish, to escape from it as soon as possible. On the con- 
 trary, when he co.^es to the rural scenes of England, he wishes 
 that he might remai.i there always. Such, at least, were the pass- 
 ing sentiments r^wakeuco in us by our short excursion from Wind- 
 There is a softness of the 
 
 60 
 
 sor through Eton to Stoke Pogcs. 
 
774 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 atmosphere which seems not only to harmonize but to bleud with 
 the dark-groen shade of the gardens and lawns, and 
 
 "All tho air a solemn stillness holds." 
 
 "Wo close our visit in London with a deep conviction that Eng- 
 lish and Americnn society are approximating to each other — that in 
 the United States we are assuming more of the constancy and con- 
 sistency of the English habit ; while in England there is a manifest 
 tendency to adopt the active and vivacious ways of American life. 
 There are sufticient grounds to explain the jealousies which, rising 
 into antipathies, have until just now alienated the two nations. It 
 was unwise to expect that the British nation would forgive the 
 Revolutionary separation, and would honor her new and rival kin- 
 dred state, so long as the stability and perpetuity of the Federal 
 Union were deemed experimental. They were necessarily deemed 
 experimental, all over the world as well as in the United States, so 
 long as the institution of slavery threatened dissolution. So far 
 from its having been a n)attcr of just surprise that the Southern 
 cause received so much of sympathy and encouragement in tlie 
 aristocratic circles of England, it is rather to be wondered at that it 
 received no more, since it promised nothing less than our inferiority, 
 not only in present prestige but in destiny, to the empire from 
 which we had so boldly separated. Since slavery has ceased to ex- 
 ist throughocit the United States, there can be no new cause of 
 alienation. The two nations must be rivals, not in arms, for neither 
 has need for conquest ; but in science, arts, literature, agriculture, 
 commerce, and navigation, and in the invention which leads to suc- 
 cess in all things. Rivalry of this sort is magnanimous rather than 
 inimical. Moreover, each nation is inclined, by peculiar character 
 and habits, to enterprise and exertion, in different fields from those 
 of the other. 
 
 On hoard the Steamer Java^ Queenstown^ Sejitemler 2ith. — We 
 are talcing our last look on foreign lands, exactly a year from the 
 day when v/c had our first glimpse of them as we approached the 
 coast of mountain-crowned Japan. How suggestive is barbarous 
 
STEAMER PASSENGERS. 
 
 775 
 
 3 but to blend with 
 and 
 
 Is." 
 
 conviction that En<]^- 
 , cacli other— that in 
 e constancy and con- 
 id there is a manifest 
 ays of American hfc. 
 [ilousies wliich, rising 
 , the two nations. It 
 on would forgive the 
 31- new and rival Idn- 
 ctnity of the Federal 
 re necessarily deemed 
 I the United States, so 
 id dissolution. So fir 
 rise that the Soutbern 
 Bncouragement in the 
 DO wondered at that it 
 ss than our inferiority, 
 to the empire from 
 ivery has ceased to cx- 
 1 be no new cause of 
 lot in arms, for neither 
 literature, agriculture, 
 ion which leads to snc- 
 rnanimons rather than 
 by peculiar character 
 erent fields from those 
 
 Septemler 24^A.-We 
 .^actly fi year from the 
 Ins wc approached the 
 \ggcstive is barbarous 
 
 Japan, rising buoyantly to grasp civilizntion, while Ireland, a civil- 
 ized land, endures the agony of a broken heart! But Ireland is 
 beautiful in her sadness, and the sympathies of mankind assure her 
 of a future. 
 
 Here, on the Java, wc have a large number of Americans 
 going homo after short visits of business or pleasure in Europe. 
 All classes are represented — merchants, bankers, lawyers, doctors, 
 engineers, professors, clergymen, college-students, students of mu- 
 sic and the fine arts — more inquisitive, more active, more commu- 
 nicative, and less economical in dress and habits than the English. 
 They arc social and polite ; they talk incessantly, and mostly of 
 " business " and American politics, of emigration, education, inter- 
 oceanic railroads, intercontinental telegraphs, civilization, and prog- 
 ress generally. They assert their opinions confidently, and ask, 
 "Why not?" The gentlemen drink champagne as freely as if it 
 were a native beverage , and smoke large " llabanas," whore Euro- 
 peans allow themselves a pipe or a cigarette. The ladies, in unex- 
 ceptionable toilets and full of vivacity, sustain their share in con- 
 versation upon all topics, from the fashions and the opera at Paris to 
 the glaciers of the Alps, the arts of Italy, the literature of Germany, 
 and the politics and religion of all nations, showing no special re- 
 gard for the theories and opinicns of their husbands — indeed, with- 
 out special inquiry, one would hardly know which ot the ladies are 
 married, and to which of the gentlemen. The children are finished 
 little people, who huve been abroad to study the European lan- 
 guages, and have learned them all, with a great deal more. The 
 girls read French novels and the latest English poems, and the boys 
 play at cards and chess. 
 
 It is only when we are leaving Europe that we realize the iva 
 mensc increase of the foreign travel, intercourse, and trade, of the 
 United States. Steamers plying between European and American 
 ports are crossing the Atlantic everyday in the year. The Cunard 
 line, only one of many, employs twenty steamers in this great 
 trade. The stormy Atlantic navigation has become so common 
 and so certain as to have lost all its terrors. It is a sad reflection 
 that this great navigation is conducted chiefly in foreign instead of 
 
 I 
 
776 
 
 MONTROSE-ON-IIUDSON 
 
 An.ierican bottoms. But tlie loss of our heretofore prominent slmre 
 in it is one of the penalties of our civil war — a loss which will bo 
 all the sooner retrieved by the liquidation of the national debt and 
 the restoration of the national currency. Meantime, we may be 
 content with the employment of the cnergico of our people in 
 developing resources g-reater than any other nation possesses. Quo 
 of the Cunard proprietors says that the profits of the line arc not 
 derived exclusively or mainly from cabin-passengers, or even from 
 freights, but from tlie transportation of emigrants. We discovered 
 a similar tact in regard to the trade cf the Pociiic. If the anmuil 
 accession of three hundred thousand immigrants, who generally 
 are of the humbler classes of Emope, has already produced a 
 beneficent modification of society and government, then it cann(,t 
 be doubted that this perpetual and always increasing intercourse 
 between America and Europe must exert a strong and iicallhful in- 
 fluence upon European nations. .Doubtless the United States send 
 many frivolous and idle pleasure-seekers abroad, and at tlie cost of 
 much wealth, but they send at the same time vastly more of enter- 
 prising, inventive, and thoughtful inquirers and observer.^; and 
 that cannot be a losing intercourse for us which brings us foreign 
 labor, industry, invention, and shill, in compensation for the annual 
 surplus of our material productions. 
 
 3rontrose-on- Hudson, Odolcp 2(7. — A dense fog compelled iis 
 to go to anchor just below Quarantine at three o'clock this morn- 
 ing. In apprising our friends of our coming, wo had rccjucst- 
 cd that they would meet us in the harbor of New Yorlc. The 
 Java had anticipated the expected day of arrival by twenty four 
 liours, so all things favored our desire to avoid the fatigue and 
 delay of landing in the city. On a signal, our friends met us willi, 
 a steam-yacht at our anchorage. The custom-house insjicetor 
 cleared our luggage promptly : the Quarantine oflicer made no 
 hesitation in giving us certificates of health ; the passengers of lIio| 
 Java gave us three cheers on our disembarking. 
 
 AVe touched at the Battery, and at Jersey (^ity, to take on honnlj 
 Other friends waiting there, and at two o'clock the Henry ISniitlij 
 
RETURN HOME. 
 
 777 
 
 ore prominent share 
 ^ loss which -A' ill bo 
 AC national debt and 
 cantime, wc may ho 
 ie3 of our people in 
 alion possesses. Ono 
 s of the line are not 
 mongers, or even from 
 ants. We discovered 
 acihc. If the annual 
 rrants, who generally 
 s already produced a 
 anient, then it canni.t 
 increasing intercouvi^o 
 itrong and hcallhful in- 
 thc United States scud 
 •oad, and at the cost of 
 iC vastly wore of cntcr- 
 .s and observers i'i>'^ 
 ^vhich l)rings us lorci-j;n 
 |ionsation lor the anuiuil 
 
 Lnsc fog compelled m 
 lliree o'clock this nioni- 
 luing, we had rc(iU0.t- 
 \v of KcNV Yorlc. The 
 arrival by twenty four 
 avoid the fatigue and 
 lour friendo met us ^villl 
 luBtom-house inspeetov 
 [ntinc officer miu'.o 'ao 
 1 ; the passengers of tlio 
 
 vin<^. 
 
 ■y City, to tahe on bonvdj 
 
 ':lockthe Henry Smith 
 
 landed us at Yerplanck's Point, near the house of Frederick \V. 
 Seward, to the surprise of the citizens whose obscure port had never 
 before witnessed a direct arrival from Europe, since the day when 
 llendric'k lludLon first landed there from the Half Moon. 
 
 At(hitrn, October dfh. — Commodore Vanderbilt's private car, the 
 finest and most comfortable conveyance we have found in the 
 Avhole circuit of the globe, brought us over the New York Central 
 R:\ilroad to our destination here at nine o'clock this evening, ex- 
 actly one year and two months from the day of our departure. We 
 entered the station by its eastern door-way. A crowd of kind 
 friends and neighbors met us at the station, and attended us home, 
 where, in their behalf, Mr. Myers made an appropriate speech of 
 welcome. 
 
 Mr. Seward replied : 
 
 " Tlie words which you have spoken to me, and the pressure of 
 the hand which you have given me, are what I knevv I might ex- 
 pect, and yet what I would willingly have avoided. I have taxed 
 uiy neighbors and friends so often and so long that I have begun 
 to feel that, when I go away, 1 would like to slip away from them, 
 and to soften the sadness of parting as the nearest of domestic rela- 
 tions do when they part. And, when I come back, I like to go in 
 upon them by surprise, and meet them in their accustomed walks 
 and ways, rather than to trouble them to come out to greet me. 
 
 "Still it is what has always happened to me in the course of so 
 manv years. AVhenever I have had occasion to c:o out of Auburn, 
 Bometimes nearer and sometimes farther, sometimes upon errands 
 of duty, sometimes of study, sometimes of labor, sometimes of pub- 
 lic responsibility, and sometimes of private interest, I never waa 
 sullered to part from my friends here without demonstrations of 
 their aflection. 
 
 *' It has often been my lot to come back among you. Some- 
 times from fields of achievement which have excited, or might ex- 
 cite envy — sometimes defeated and with martiiication, Sv.m'^^^imes 
 with domestic sorrow, which cannot be lightly spoken of, and some- 
 times with public anxiety which could not be expressed — yet I 
 
778 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 have never come home without being received as a neighbor and 
 friend. 
 
 " Such neighbors deserve all the affection and all the gratitude 
 I can give thein. I can only ask you to believe that, in ail my 
 wanderings far and near, there has not been a day or hour when I 
 have not remembered them, and prayed God that what I might not 
 be able to do for their welfare and happiness, might be done through 
 other agencies. 
 
 " My friends, we are met together, I trust, not to part again. 
 I have had a long journey, which, in its inception, seemed .j many 
 to be eccentric, but I trust that all my neighbors and friends are 
 now satisfied that it was reasonable. I found that, in returning 
 home to the occupations which were before me, I was expected to 
 enjoy rest from labors and cares which were thought to have been 
 oppressive and severe. I found that at my age, and in my condi- 
 tion of liealth, 'rest was rust;' and nothing remained, to prevent 
 rust, but to keep in motion. I selected the way that would do the 
 least harm, give the least offence, enable me to acquire the iiKtst 
 knowledge, and increase the power, if any remained, to do good. 
 
 " In the course of my wanderings I have seen, not all the na- 
 tions, but some of the nations, of every race on the earth. I have 
 looked the whole human family in the face, and taken by the hand 
 and conversed with my fellow-man in his lowest degradation and 
 in his highest stage of civilization. I have found no nation so dis- 
 tant, and no race so low, that the character of an American citizen 
 did not secure to me, not merely safety, but also respect, considera- 
 tion, and affection. You may judge, therefore, whether in return- 
 ing to my own country I have less reason to love and honor it. 
 
 " My friends and neighbors, I have trespassed beyond your 
 patience and my own strength in speaking these words to you. I 
 give you my sincere and heart-felt thanks, and hope to-morrow, and 
 on early future days, to learn that happinesB has been in all jour 
 dwellings, and that all the enterprises in which you are engnged 
 have beeii crowned with success, as I know there will be at all 
 your firesides, during the lojig winter before us, the same affettiou 
 and friendship which have been the great happiness of my life.' 
 
I as a neigUbor and 
 
 md all the gratitude 
 ievc that, in all my 
 day or hour when I 
 hat what I might not 
 li^ht be done through 
 
 it, not to part again, 
 tion, seemed -j many 
 ibors and friends arc 
 nd that, in returning 
 me, I was expected to 
 I thought to have been 
 age, and in my condi- 
 rcmained, to prevent 
 way that would do the 
 Q to acquire the ni(.>t 
 jmained, to do good, 
 -e seen, not all the i :v 
 on the earth. 1 h^ivo 
 and taken by the hand 
 .west degradation and 
 ■ound no nation so dis- 
 ,f an American citizen 
 [also respect, considcra- 
 ,rc, whether in return- 
 love and honor it. 
 lespasscd beyond your 
 hese words to you. I 
 Id hope to-morrow, aud 
 is has been in all your 
 hich you are engaged 
 |v there will be at all 
 lis, the same affection 
 opiness of my Tde. ' 
 
 )PE. 
 
MAP SHOWING MR. SEWARD'S ROUTE TUROUGH 
 
ao 
 
 lOo 
 
 VM 
 
 las 
 
 B 
 
 n 
 
 C 
 
 J 
 
 
 E 
 
 ^ 
 
 AFGHANISTAN (^r^^f^K %,. ^ I l '^ \c~^^ 
 
 Tlcu" 
 
 ^\'an 
 
 \ v^ 
 
 -'<\Q 
 
 'KB 
 
 *r 
 
 hue 
 
 ; f c 
 
 -^- 
 
 
 f-fc' J. 
 
 o 
 
 ]S" A 
 
 0/- 
 
 ^ £ 
 
 JV 
 
 -V 
 
 /I 
 
 Blnftaporei 
 
 lOKNEO 
 
 I. SEWARD'S ROUTE TUROUGH ASIA, AFRICA, AND EUROPE. 
 
JOI 
 
 Absii 
 Abj'i 
 A. C. 
 
 Aden 
 
 Apra 
 
 A..ba 
 
 Alasli 
 
 Alasl^ 
 
 Albc 
 
 Albui 
 
 A!coc 
 
 Aide 
 
 Ales 
 
 Alexa 
 
 Aloxii 
 
 AliM 
 
 Allah 
 
 Alps, 
 
 Altai 
 
 Amcr 
 
 Amer 
 
 Araer 
 
 Ant 01 
 
 Apoll 
 
 Applet 
 
 Arcot 
 
 Arcot 
 
 Arab! 
 
 Arab 
 
 Ariad 
 
 Argyl 
 
Il^rDEX. 
 
 TAGE 
 
 Absalom, tomb of G48 
 
 Abydoa 5G8-573 
 
 A. C. Farnham & Co 270 
 
 Aden 511-514 
 
 Agra 420 
 
 A;.bar, Emperor 4:il-432 
 
 Alaska 35 
 
 Alaska, steamer 245 
 
 Albert, Prinee 390 
 
 Albuquerque 495 
 
 Alcock, Sir Rutherford 152 
 
 Alden, Timothy 447 
 
 Alexander the Great 434 
 
 Alexanilri;i G17-C21 
 
 Alexandria:! Library 022 
 
 Ali MuradEffendi 580 
 
 Allahabad 418, 477 
 
 Alps, the 742 
 
 Altai Mountains 132 
 
 Amenophis III 500 
 
 Americans in Egypt 545, 546 
 
 American legation at Yeddo 58 
 
 ofiicoi" ii. Tui'kisli service 700 
 
 officers in Egypt 620 
 
 Antonelli, Cardinal 731, 732 
 
 Apollo, steamer 050, 057 
 
 Appleton, Mr 703 
 
 Arcot SG5, 300 
 
 Arcot Mission 371 
 
 Arabia 610 
 
 Arab kind.icss to animals 506 
 
 Ariadne, Marryat's vessel 020 
 
 Argyll, Duke of. 370 
 
 PAGB 
 
 Armenian merchant 374 
 
 Asceticism 485 
 
 Asehmann, Captain 744 
 
 Ashuelot, U. S. steamer 124, 125, 223 
 
 Assouan 001, 002 
 
 Athens 079-084 
 
 Auburn, departure from 3 
 
 Auger, General, kind attentions of. ... 10 
 
 Augustine Heard & Co 276 
 
 Aurongzebe 448 
 
 Austria, remarks on 721, 723 
 
 Avery, Mr 29 
 
 Azhar, Mosque of 553 
 
 Baboo, a Hindoo 382 
 
 Bachelor, Captain 79 
 
 Bailey, Mr 252, 277 
 
 Bancroft, Mr 766 
 
 Bandong 323, 328 
 
 Regent of 324 
 
 Baimermcn, Chinese 158 
 
 Banco Begum 435 
 
 Barrackpore 398 
 
 Barrow, General 419 
 
 Batavia 304, 308 
 
 Bayard Taylor 447, 451 
 
 Beardslcy, Mr., U. S. consul 027 
 
 Bedouin Arabs 528 
 
 Beebe, Mr 223 
 
 Behar, steamer 342 
 
 Belgium 765 
 
 Bell, Admiral 90 
 
 Boilianch 568 
 
780 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 ! 
 
 (1 
 
 Benares 402-J 10 
 
 Ma'.KUiijiilrof 405 
 
 Bengal, Hay i)f. 378 
 
 Benzoni 737 
 
 Bcr-;!), Mr 13-1 
 
 Beriin 705, 7CG 
 
 Berne 741 
 
 Berthcmy, M 152, 743 
 
 Bcrtinatti, Siguor 758 
 
 Bethany 050 
 
 Bctts lioy 523, 508, 013, 018 
 
 Bothlehcm 015-G47 
 
 Bcttos, Japa:ics2 foot- boys 74 
 
 Beust, Count 720, 721 
 
 Bhan Duji 488, 480 
 
 Birds, Cak'ulta 387 
 
 Birthday, Mr. Sowai'd's scvcntlL'tli. . . . 577 
 
 Black Iloio, Calcutta 303 
 
 Biacquc B;\v 702, 707 
 
 Bliss, Dr 050 
 
 Bogue Fort.'! 254 
 
 Bom Jesus, Church of, at Goa 490 
 
 Bombay 482-484 
 
 Book-storo at Yoddo 70 
 
 Bosporus, the 097-700 
 
 Boston 381 
 
 Botaniciil Gardens, Balavia S37 
 
 Bradley, General 12 
 
 Bramin beggar, a 370 
 
 Bridges, litigation about 8 
 
 British and ricnc'.i in Cliina 192 
 
 British hospitality 478 
 
 Brittan, Mi^s 400, 401 
 
 Brown, .Jolm P 080-088 
 
 Bruce, Sir Frederick 143 
 
 Buda-Pcslh 712 
 
 Buddha 408 
 
 Temple of. 174 
 
 Buddhist temple and bonzes in Japan. 47 
 
 Buddhi.sts in China 174 
 
 Buddhism, Chinese 203, 204 
 
 Buitenzorg 3i)9 
 
 Bull, Pardon & Co 270 
 
 Bulwer, Fir Henry 019, 620 
 
 Burne, Major 379 
 
 Burlinganip, Anson. . . . 100, 145, 148, 
 
 153, 158, 184, 185, 217 
 
 Bustced & Co 205 
 
 Butler, Mr., a colored American 114 
 
 Byculla Club 492 
 
 —■ Mr. Seward's speech to 501 
 
 PAfiB 
 
 Cairo • 583, 014 
 
 old 540 
 
 Calcutta 379, 3S1 
 
 California, caprices of civilization 2il 
 
 Cali])hs, tombs of 551 
 
 Calvary 038, 030 
 
 Caral)odia 289 
 
 Queen of. 201 
 
 Canibyscs , 588 
 
 Camocns at Goa 4!i0 
 
 Campbell, (iovcinor, of Wyoming 12 
 
 Canada, icniarKs on 
 
 Canals of Egypt CC3 
 
 Canal, Great Chinese 131, 242 
 
 Canton 2.:3, 273 
 
 fisheries 275 
 
 Cary, Alice .'')(i5 
 
 Cascade at Bandong 329 
 
 Caste in India 300 
 
 Cataracts of the Nile COO 
 
 Cauvcryrak 3C7 
 
 Cavour, Count 740 
 
 Caunporc 410 
 
 Cedar Raj, ids, an inchoate AVcstcin 
 
 city 8 
 
 Cemetery at Assouan C03 
 
 Cesnola collection (OO, (;c7 
 
 Ce\lon 340-348 
 
 Cliam-PiiigChcw 211 
 
 ChceFoo ILO, 121 
 
 Cheiif Pacha 015 
 
 Cheyenne 10, 11 
 
 Chicago, a marvel of l)rogre^:s 7 
 
 China, agriculture of 133 
 
 its natior.al flag 148 
 
 relations of, with Russia 153 
 
 decay of 108 
 
 materialism in 108 
 
 deities of 173 
 
 diplomacy of 185, 180 
 
 Romardsm in 212 
 
 civilization in, Mr. Seward's re- 
 marks on 280-283 
 
 Chinese Americans 149 
 
 baby 205 
 
 banquet 1^0 
 
 boudoir 163 
 
 cabinet 1 -ir) 
 
 cariiages IfO 
 
 civilization 280-283 
 
 emigration 275, 270 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Y81 
 
 PAfiE 
 
 D33, CM 
 
 nii» 
 
 870, oSl 
 
 ition '^'.> 
 
 n.-)i 
 
 Cu8, G;i'.i 
 
 'ih'.) 
 
 21)1 
 
 r),s8 
 
 4'.itt 
 
 aming I'-i 
 
 r. 
 
 oo;! 
 
 181, ':42 
 
 2.-3, 27:5 
 
 '. 275 
 
 r.d,-) 
 
 ;!2'.) 
 
 300 
 
 coo 
 
 307 
 
 710 
 
 \[ '110 
 
 itc Western 
 
 8 
 
 COIi 
 
 lOC), ('07 
 
 .... CdO-B-lS 
 
 211 
 
 .... I'-O, 121 
 
 515 
 
 10, II 
 
 vc:^S ' 
 
 133 
 
 M8 
 
 litsia '"•* 
 
 loa 
 
 "_ 1G8 
 
 [[ 173 
 
 1S5, 180 
 
 212 
 
 i^'cward's rc- 
 
 280-283 
 
 "/.'. IIO 
 
 205 
 
 '"_ 150 
 
 [ 103 
 
 "_ 1 55 
 
 " 100 
 
 ...... 280-283 
 
 ...... 275,270 
 
 PACE I 
 
 Chinese emperor's summer palace .... 102 
 
 f'unei al Ml 
 
 inns 211 
 
 Ion:? nail.-) 1 0-1 
 
 returning home 32 
 
 tablet hall 172 
 
 ToniplG of Buddha 1 74 
 
 thcat;ica!3 2';8 
 
 wall 188, 198, 202, 203 
 
 Chin-Kiang 227, 241 
 
 Chin-Lun 220 
 
 Chin-Wangti 200 
 
 Chi-Tajenand Sun-Tiijcn. . . 109, 113, 
 
 18.-), 214, 215 
 
 Citadel of Cairo 540 
 
 Civilizatio.i of the Mediterranean. 738, 739 
 
 Clive, Lord 301, 306 
 
 Cockburn, Admiral 358, 487, 510 
 
 Cochin China 284-291 
 
 Coles, Mr 182 
 
 Coliseum, the 723, 730 
 
 Cologne 705 
 
 Colorado, U. S. steamer, 107, 115, 225, 
 
 245, 247 
 
 Colored ssttleraont at Chatliam G 
 
 Colo.-f.si of Thebe.s CS9, 590 
 
 Concjrt at Calcutta 390 
 
 Concessions, Foreign, in China 107 
 
 Confucius 179, ISO 
 
 Temple of 170 
 
 Constantinople, arrival at 085 
 
 charms of 089-092 
 
 Cook, Captain 021 
 
 Copts, the 549 
 
 Columbia, ste.amer 340 
 
 Comprador, Chinese 240 
 
 Cornw.dlis, Lord 301, 302 
 
 Council BlulTs 8 
 
 Council, Legislative, of Madras 302 
 
 Cunningham, General 440 
 
 Cyprus 605 
 
 Daibutz, statue of Buddha 51 
 
 Dak, the 444 
 
 Balling, Lord 018 
 
 Dancing-girls, Javanese 330, 331 
 
 Danube River 718, 719 
 
 Darwin, .lis theory 480 
 
 Dashur. Pyramids of 012 
 
 Day, 1 ss of a 34 
 
 Decima, island of 97 
 
 PAGK 
 
 Do Long, minister to Japan, 40, .53, CO, 
 
 79, 83 
 
 Ddmonico of Ycddo, the 71 
 
 Butch stciimor, a 208-303 
 
 Dwarfs, Javanese 320, 331, 332 
 
 Ddaplaine, Mr 720 
 
 Delhi 441-451 
 
 Delos 073 
 
 Delta of Egypt 016 
 
 Do Muntholon 152 
 
 Dcndcra, Tcmplo of 575-577 
 
 Lcrvishes, dancing 553-555 
 
 Detroit 6 
 
 Dc Trobriand, General 17 
 
 Dogs, Chinese 1 20 
 
 Doorga, the monkey-god 415 
 
 Drew, Mr 232 
 
 Drouyn dc Lhuys, M 758, 759 
 
 Dutch colonization 322 
 
 Eden, Calcutta 388 
 
 Felio, a marvellous 242 
 
 Edfou COO 
 
 arcliitect of OoO 
 
 Edinburgh, Duke of 225, 345 
 
 Egypt, population of 5;'.2, 533 
 
 Egyptians, ancient. 023, 024 
 
 Egyptian kings, tombs of 592 
 
 relics 517,518 
 
 E. J. Hage &; Co 276 
 
 El-Aksa 043, 044 
 
 Elcho 24, 25 
 
 Eldri.lge, Mr 404 
 
 Elcphaiita 483-491 
 
 Elejihantina 001 
 
 Elephants at Puttjcala 455, 401 
 
 England, rural life in 773 
 
 English and Amciiean society 774 
 
 Epaulets, influence of 130 
 
 Ephesus 008-073 
 
 Esnch 597,599 
 
 Eugenie, Empress ... . 539, 545 
 
 escape of 700-703 
 
 Evans, Dr 700-703 
 
 Farnham, Mr., U. S. consul, Bombay. . 482 
 
 Fellahs of Egypt 505 
 
 Finkclstein, Benjamin 027 
 
 Firman, Sultan's, to Mr. Scwnrd 633 
 
 Fi.-iherics, Korthcrn treaty for 36 
 
 Fitz, Mr 235-237 
 
782 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 C 
 
 \ 
 
 3 
 
 JMtzgoralJ, l^ir Seymour 482, 484 
 
 Floicncc 725, 720 
 
 Flotilla, Mr. Scwaid's, on the Pci-lio, 
 
 127-129 
 
 Flowery Forest Temple, Canton 202 
 
 Forbes, Murray 2u 1 
 
 Formosa, island of 249 
 
 Forte, 11. U. il. ship 858 
 
 Fort yt. (ieorge 301 
 
 William 400 
 
 Franco, conditicjn of 747-749 
 
 Franeo-Ciornuin War, near approach of, 83 
 
 Franklin 751 
 
 Fruser, Mr. and Mr^ 220 
 
 Frccn.an, William 10, 80, 81, 140, 
 
 144, 209, 225, 405, 400 
 
 French affairs 703, 704 
 
 Assembly 752-754 
 
 and British in China 192 
 
 colonization in the East 289 
 
 inscription at Philio 008 
 
 Furs at Teknig 151 
 
 Fusi Yaiua 35, 30 
 
 Futtehporc fc^ikra 421, 424 
 
 Gallatin 
 
 Galle, Ceylon 
 
 Ganges River 
 
 festival on 
 
 Geneva 
 
 Genoa 
 
 Gcoifroy, M 
 
 Gcrolt, Baron 
 
 Ghizoh 559, 
 
 Gindy House 
 
 Park, Madras 
 
 Goa, cxeur.^ion to 492- 
 
 population of 
 
 Gobat, Bishop 051 , 
 
 Golden Island 
 
 Goshen, land of 
 
 Govcriimont House, Calcutta 
 
 Grant, President, at Chicago 
 
 Mr 
 
 Great Britain, Government of. . . . 772, 
 
 Greece, modern 
 
 Greek architecture 690, 
 
 costume 
 
 church 
 
 language 
 
 Grevy, M 
 
 745 
 340 
 403 
 405 
 742 
 739 
 754 
 700 
 013 
 374 
 373 
 ■500 
 498 
 055 
 214 
 530 
 386 
 7 
 478 
 773 
 084 
 083 
 074 
 051 
 GS4 
 752 
 
 PAOII 
 
 Grey, Dr 265, 270 
 
 Gyaseutus, the 35 
 
 Hainan Island 284 
 
 Hamburg 708, 709 
 
 Hamlin, Dr 095 
 
 Hammond, Mr 772 
 
 Han River 234 
 
 Han-Kow 234 
 
 Han-Yan 235, 237 
 
 Harem of the Khedive h"A, 555-557 
 
 of U. S. vice-consul at Thebes. . . 010 
 
 Hart, Robert 213, 214 
 
 Hastings, Mr., Mr. Seward's old fritnd, 28 
 
 Hatason, Queen 587, 594 
 
 Hawes, Captain 127, 223 
 
 Hay, Mrs C50 
 
 Ilcber, Bishop 357 
 
 Helena, Empress 037,039 
 
 Hcliopolis 544 
 
 Herodotus 543 
 
 H. Fogg k Co 270 
 
 Himalayas, first view of 453 
 
 a glance at 471 
 
 Hindoo girls' sohool, Madras .... 354, 375 
 
 names 356 
 
 tenderness lor animals 480 
 
 Hiogo 80, 88 
 
 Hoang-ho, mouth of 117 
 
 Holy Scpukhre, Church of (135-037 
 
 Ilonan Temple 201 
 
 Hong Kong 249-252 
 
 gamblers 277 
 
 Ilcogly River 378 
 
 Horses, Japanese care of 70 
 
 Horsford, Captain 453, 455, 405 
 
 Hue, Falhcr 235 
 
 Hughes, Archbishop 734 
 
 Ilumayoon 444, 447 
 
 Humboldt 7(JG 
 
 Hungary 712-718 
 
 IliU'dwar 453 
 
 Ilyden 188 
 
 Idol-worship, folly of 613, 014 
 
 India, secret of its dependence 357 
 
 goveinment 359 
 
 caste 300 
 
 discontent with English rule .... 3P5 
 
 finances of 304 
 
 scenery 403 
 
INDEX. 
 
 783 
 
 PAOH 
 
 255, 270 
 
 35 
 
 284 
 
 " G95 
 
 '"'... 772 
 
 2^4 
 
 "' 234 
 
 235, 2;i7 
 
 5;M, 555-557 
 It Thebes... CIO 
 
 213, 214 
 
 I's old fiiaid, 28 
 
 587, 594 
 
 ....... 127,223 
 
 "" C50 
 
 ' "/. ii57 
 
 ...... . C37, 039 
 
 "" 544 
 
 543 
 
 "_ 27t> 
 
 ' ' 453 
 
 **'"'. 471 
 
 xiras .... 354, 375 
 , 35G 
 
 uals -IS^'^ 
 
 80, 88 
 
 ." 117 
 
 of ('io5-637 
 
 * 201 
 
 249-252 
 
 ■".' 277 
 
 " 378 
 
 of ''^ 
 
 .. 453, 455,405 
 235 
 
 ......••••• "''^^ 
 
 "[ 414,447 
 
 " "_ TOG 
 
 712-718 
 
 ■■'" 453 
 
 ■"''"", 188 
 
 613,014 
 
 mcndcnec 357 
 
 359 
 
 300 
 
 Enslish rule .... 385 
 
 ■^ 394 
 
 . . 403 
 
 PAliB 
 
 India, opium 404 
 
 history 443, 444 
 
 Mr. Seward's romaiks on leav- 
 
 in;,' 500-510 
 
 Indians, destiny of 25 
 
 Inhind S.'u of Japan 94 
 
 IntcvpretLT, Japanese 02 
 
 lsht:il:)as'.ii, Mr 79, 83 
 
 Island, a floatinjr 301 
 
 Isles of Greece, the 073 
 
 Ismailia 523-527 
 
 Ismail Pacha, Khedive of Kj^ypt. 520, 557 
 Israelites passage of the Red >Sea, 521, 522 
 Italy 724-741 
 
 Jacobs, Mr 379 
 
 Jade, Cliiiieso 200 
 
 Jalla 025-027 
 
 Japan, coast of 35 
 
 population of 40 
 
 "concession" to foreigners in. . . 40 
 
 people of 40, 49 
 
 costumes 42 
 
 barbers 42 
 
 gatliering of crops 47 
 
 laws about trees 47 
 
 tea-houses 48 
 
 history of 50-59 
 
 Foreign Ollicc 59 
 
 artisans 74 
 
 especial reasons for prudence. . . 86 
 
 Christianity in 98, 09 
 
 society and civilization 99, 104 
 
 Japanese ambassadors to the United 
 
 Sratcs, tlicir fate 7.'^ 
 
 travellers 2S4 
 
 Java 304, 344 
 
 populousnoss of 308 
 
 scenery 310 
 
 government 311 
 
 climate 313 
 
 vegetation 314 
 
 birds 314 
 
 frjit 310 
 
 agriculture 319 
 
 Dutcli management of 322, 
 
 323, 338, 340 
 
 steamer . . 774, 775 
 
 Jay, John 72 J 
 
 Johanara, tomb of 4 ,8 
 
 Jejcebhoy, Sir Jamsctjce 4 S3 
 
 Jerusalem 029-055 
 
 population of 047 
 
 Jesuits in China 155 
 
 Jewell, Mr 295 
 
 Mr., U. S. consul at I'enang 342 
 
 Jew, an American 049 
 
 Jews of Jerusalem 051-055 
 
 Jews' wailing-place 052 
 
 Jiddah 619 
 
 Jubbulpoor 478 
 
 Ji'ggernaut, car of 370 
 
 Jugglers, Hindoo 402, 403 
 
 Jumna, banks of the 471 
 
 Musjid, the 418, 449 
 
 Junk, Chinese 119 
 
 KaH Ghaut 391 
 
 iCalka 473, 470 
 
 Kamakula, ancient capital of Japan. . 50 
 
 Kanagawa, excursion to 48 
 
 Kang, Chinese 197 
 
 Kang-Ili, Chinese emperor 155 
 
 Karnak 578-583 
 
 colunms at 584 
 
 Kcnneh Oil 
 
 Khedive of Egypt 520, 5;!l-r'33, 
 
 013-015, 017 
 
 Khedive's yacht 021 
 
 Kiahta 101 
 
 Kiainil Pacha 009, 702-704 
 
 Kiamil, Princess 703, 704 
 
 Kincob, mamifacturo of 415 
 
 Kinder, Captain 93 
 
 King Cotton 438 
 
 ! King, Gincral 12 
 
 ' Kiiapp, Chark.' 523 
 
 Kossuih 717, 718 
 
 Kootub Minar, the 414, 445 
 
 Kublai-Khan 182 
 
 Ku-Kiang '232, 241 
 
 Kuiig, Prince 1 57 
 
 letter from 215 
 
 interview with 210-220 
 
 Kussowlce 473-475' 
 
 Laboulayc, M 220, 700 
 
 Larnica 006 
 
 Laurens, Henry 302 
 
 Lebanon 057 
 
 Lc-ming-Che, Taou-tai of Ilan-Kow . . . 245 
 Lcsscps, M 524, 525, 527 
 
784 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 e 
 
 2 
 
 PAOB 
 
 Lcvaiitino Ptcamcr 025 
 
 Lincoln, Mf 301 
 
 Lion-wliclpH 378 
 
 I.iulc Orphan blaiul 231 
 
 Little Stoi k Pagoda 23() 
 
 London 772 
 
 Louis XIV 748 
 
 Louise, .Sister 212 
 
 Low, Mr., Ml, 111, 1 Ui, 152, 153, l,-,0, 
 
 101, 181, ISO, 218, 221 
 
 Low, Mrs 210 
 
 Lowe, Mr 321 
 
 Loyola, Ignatius 155, 490 
 
 Luiknow 419 
 
 Ludlow Castle 441, 451 
 
 Luke, tonilj of 009 
 
 Luxor 578, 680-582, 010 
 
 Lydda 028 
 
 Lyons, Lord 750 
 
 Madras 353 
 
 surf at 377 
 
 Mahmoud of Ohuznec 423 
 
 Cmal 017 
 
 Major, Captain 496 
 
 Malacca, Straits of 209, 343 
 
 Malays 300-3U2, 839 
 
 JIaineluke.', weapons of 640 
 
 Mandarin precession, a 108 
 
 Manguin, Mr. and Mr.-s 99 
 
 Manoekjco Cursotjcc 484 
 
 Marco Polo 873 
 
 Marictte Bey 542, 548, 008 
 
 Marmora, Sea of 084 
 
 Marryat'3 ship Ariadne 020 
 
 Marsii, Mr 725 
 
 Martin, Dr 210, 219, 220 
 
 Malaria 545 
 
 Mayo, Countess of 379 
 
 Earl 379, 381, 395 
 
 death of, note 477 
 
 McAlistL>r, Mr 379 
 
 MeAlpinc, W. J 707 
 
 Medecnot Ilaboo 691, 590, 599 
 
 Mediterranean Hotel 032 
 
 Meorut 452 
 
 Mcnmnn 590 
 
 Temple of 670 
 
 Memphis 012, 013 
 
 Mcncs 571 
 
 Mcrcicr, Ilcnri, M 758 
 
 PAOI 
 
 Merivale, Mr 772 
 
 Middkton, Mr 1 28, 209 
 
 Mikado, ihe 50-59 
 
 palace of the 60 
 
 Mr. Seward's audience with. . . 79-84 
 
 Ming tombs, China 200 
 
 Miracle ut (Joa 497 
 
 Missionaries, American 31 
 
 at Peking 221 
 
 Mogul Serai 405 
 
 Mobanuned Tauplnk 546 
 
 Mongolians, the 202 
 
 Monkey, a tip[)ling 507 
 
 Monkeys, thieving, their malice 481 
 
 Moniagu, Lady Mary Wortlcy, letters 
 
 of 637 
 
 Monlholon, M 758 
 
 Montrc8c-on-lludson 770 
 
 Mornions, The 18, 19 
 
 Mormon jiolygamy 22, 23 
 
 Tabernacle 19 
 
 Mosque of Meheniet Ali 517 
 
 Pearl 4.:8 
 
 Mount of Olives, mosque on 049 
 
 Muir, Lady 419 
 
 Sir William 418 
 
 Mule, an excited 478 
 
 Music, Hindoo 303, 8C4 
 
 Mueician, a Japanese 72 
 
 Myer, tiovernor-Gcncral of Java . 314, 818 
 Myt-Kahyneh 013 
 
 Nagasaki 93, 90, 98 
 
 Names, historical and geographical. . . 8 
 
 Nanking 228 
 
 Naii-Kow, China 195 
 
 Pass 190, 200 
 
 Napier, Captain o&3 
 
 Lady 854 
 
 Lord 353, 3u4 
 
 Naples 788 
 
 Napoleon 1 748 
 
 Nautch-girls 870, 407 
 
 Necker 745 
 
 Nectanebus COl 
 
 Nedcriandcn, Koningin der 298, 299 
 
 Neilgherry Mountains SCO 
 
 Nerbudda, a night-voyage on the 470 
 
 New York, arrival at 770 
 
 Western 4 
 
 Niagara Falls 4 
 
INDEX. 
 
 785 
 
 TAflK 
 
 in 
 
 128, 209 
 
 50-r.'.) 
 
 m 
 
 with... 711-81 
 2t)0 
 
 ". 4117 
 
 \\ ;ii 
 
 221 
 
 405 
 
 ' 545 
 
 202 
 
 507 
 
 il'icc 481 
 
 tky, letters 
 
 587 
 
 '[. 758 
 
 770 
 
 18, 19 
 
 22, 23 
 
 19 
 
 547 
 
 [ 4:3 
 
 \n'. <11'J 
 
 419 
 
 418 
 
 478 
 
 303, 8C4 
 
 72 
 
 fjava. 314,318 
 013 
 
 .... 93, 96, 98 
 
 jgrapWical ... 8 
 
 228 
 
 195 
 
 190, 200 
 
 3ij3 
 
 854 
 
 353, 854 
 
 " 788 
 
 "'".". 743 
 
 370, 407 
 
 ". .'. '745 
 
 col 
 
 1 'yea "Mfl 
 
 (lev "^""i -• ' 
 
 8CG 
 
 e on the 479 
 
 770 
 
 " " 4 
 
 .. 4 
 
 Nile. tliP C02-015 
 
 ealiuai't-i of OOO 
 
 native mode of crossing 009 
 
 Nippon-!) IS, tlio fanious luid^ji' 00-08 
 
 NonK'nciaturo of mountain sceneiy. . 15 
 
 Noubar Pael\a 545 
 
 Noiirnialial, tlio liglit of tlio barom . . . 485 
 Nubians 0O2 
 
 Obclisic quarry at .\?souan 00 1 
 
 Ocean naniiei-Tcni])le, Canton 201 
 
 <)lj,M, Queen of (iioeee 084 
 
 Oliphant k Co 270 
 
 OaialiM, rliaractt-rs at 8-10 
 
 Omar, AIo.<ciuc of 040-044 
 
 On, tity of 544 
 
 Opium in Inilia 404 
 
 Opiufn-smo'.ving in Cliina 208 
 
 Ord, Governor of Pcnang 342 
 
 Orsova 7, 03 
 
 Osaka 88, 90-93 
 
 Oude, King of 895 
 
 Prince of 395, 397 
 
 Pacha at Cairo, conversation witli . 015, 010 
 
 Pacific mail line stcamcis 31 
 
 Pacific Ocean ol 
 
 Page, Mr., U. S. consul at Port Said. . 022 
 
 Pagodas, Ciiineso 130 
 
 Palace, Imperial, at Delhi 449, 450 
 
 New, at Constantinople 7uo, 7ol 
 
 Palcsline, impressions of 058, 005 
 
 population of 002 
 
 iiivalcrs of 003 
 
 rcligicns of 059 
 
 women of 002 
 
 tcgeneration of 004 
 
 improvement in 005 
 
 missions in 005 
 
 telegraphs and railroads in 005 
 
 Palikao, battle of 140 
 
 Panch Mahal, the 427, 429 
 
 Pariahs 370 
 
 Parij 747 
 
 Parker, Theodoic, tomb of 727 
 
 Parkes, Sir Harry, British minister to 
 
 Japan 00, 194 
 
 Parsees, the 484-4S7 
 
 Par.son?, Major 475 
 
 Passe igers on steamer Java 775 
 
 Passports 748 
 
 Patna 403 
 
 CO 
 
 pAna 
 
 Po-eher-Ico. Oulf of 117-121, 224 
 
 Pci-ho, Uivcr 123, 124 
 
 Peking, first sight of 141 
 
 Mr. Seward's entrance into 143 
 
 uall of. 140 
 
 foreign population of 149, 151 
 
 Legations at 151-153 
 
 palace in 1 80 
 
 birds in 181 
 
 Pells, Mr 305, 3U7, 811 
 
 Peimng, island of 343 
 
 Pepin, King 743 
 
 Peruvian burk in Java , 883 
 
 Pcsth 714-710 
 
 Pharos 021 
 
 Phihc G16-0O8 
 
 Philippine l.-lands 295 
 
 Pini'nix, the Arabian 544 
 
 Photograidicr, a Chinese 100 
 
 Pig or.-Knglish 223 
 
 Pilate, palace of C40, 051 
 
 lillMjury, Mr 121 
 
 Pinlai-rio 472-470 
 
 FlyniDut'i Ilcek, Ftcamer 2i:0, 245 
 
 Poet, a Portuguese, at Goa 500 
 
 Poct^ Chinese 100 
 
 Point de Galle 840 
 
 PolitiLMans at Omaha 9 
 
 Polvgamy in Kgypt and Utah. . . . 5:, 7, r,88 
 
 Pompoy's I'illar 019, 020 
 
 Pondii horry 349 
 
 Poon-ling-gua's villa 1105, 200 
 
 Pope Pius IX 732, 730 
 
 Porccl.iin Tower, the 229 
 
 Port Said 021,022 
 
 Portuguese Empire 499 
 
 courtesy f>00 
 
 settlement, Madras 872 
 
 Po-Yang, Lake 281 
 
 Prawiro da Kcdya 321 
 
 Preachers on steamer Cliiiia 31 
 
 Pri;nc -minister, Japanese 81 
 
 Provence, steamer 2R4 
 
 Prussia, hist irieal sketch of 700, 707 
 
 Ptolemy Philopnter COO 
 
 Pulpit Rock 16 
 
 Pumpclly, Mr 190 
 
 Putte-ala 454, 470 
 
 Maharajah of 388, 453, 400-4C2 
 
 Prince of 407 
 
 Pyramids, the 539, 543 
 
T86 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Quarries at Assouan. 
 
 c 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 P! 
 M 
 
 :^: 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 nil 
 
 Radhe, Adhrpatlie 
 
 RuIicIlmi, Sakli-, Javanese prince 
 
 Railway, East India 403, 
 
 Madras and Arcot 
 
 Ralsto Mr., entertainment by 
 
 Ramcscy 
 
 II 
 
 sa- cop'.'.agus of 
 
 tomb of. 
 
 Rarnesis III , temple of 
 
 Ramlel) G27, 
 
 Randall, A. W 4, 05, 115, 
 
 Ranepot 360, 
 
 Rti. I.o, Dr 
 
 Rc::ii, Mr 
 
 Red Jacket, anecdote of , 
 
 Red Sea, ihc 519- 
 
 Relifucs, Baron, German minister at 
 
 Pekin,^' 
 
 Rcmusat, M 
 
 Reno 
 
 Rho-lali 500, 
 
 Ribcrio, a Portuguese i^oct 
 
 Rico j'lJvation in India 
 
 I'islc} , ilaii&on A 
 
 Mis.- 113, 
 
 Robci \ Collc.uc Cn5, 
 
 RoclK'')it, Count, Frrucli minister at 
 
 PAGE 
 
 . 004 
 
 , 823 
 
 , 338 
 404 
 305 
 28 
 672 
 587 
 033 
 593 
 595 
 028 
 220 
 307 
 700 
 703 
 31 
 522 
 
 152 
 752 
 20 
 Oil 
 500 
 3GS 
 4 
 141 
 090 
 
 r 
 
 i: 
 
 Rocky Mountains, uses of 
 
 Rodgcrs, Admiral 107, 110, 115, 
 
 12;), 121, 127, 155, 100, 203, 209, 
 
 218, 219, 
 
 Rodman, M:- 128, 
 
 Romanism in China 212, 
 
 Rome 
 
 13 
 
 225 
 209 
 2i:! 
 -738 
 154 
 
 Rose, Mr 232, 211 
 
 022 
 714 
 55 
 153 
 152 
 308 
 
 Cliurdi of, in China 
 
 Rosctta 
 
 RubU'o, M 
 
 Russell & CoTpany 107, 251, 
 
 Russia, relations with China 
 
 Russian minister at Peking 151, 
 
 Rvots 
 
 Pacranirnt;;, society of. 27 
 
 Siiid Pacha 524 
 
 Saigon city 287, 288 
 
 River, mouth of 2S0 
 
 PAOB 
 
 Saint Thomas, apostle 510 
 
 Sakkara, Pyramid of 500, 002 
 
 Saladin 540 
 
 Salina, Augusta 590 
 
 Salt Lake city 17 
 
 San Francisco £8-30 
 
 Sao Januario, Viscount do 495 
 
 Sarnath, Buddhist ruins at -110 
 
 Sawa, Japanese Minister of Foreign Af- 
 fairs 015, 017, 019 
 
 Science, Hall of, at Peking 154 
 
 Scliofield, General. . 29 
 
 SchuKg Ilao, Chinese ambassador 750 
 
 Scudder, missionary 371 
 
 Secundra 422, 433 
 
 Sentpr, Mr. , 88 
 
 Separation, a settlement on the Rocky 
 
 Mountains 13 
 
 Septimus Severus 590 
 
 Seraglio 093 
 
 Scram(ioro 399 
 
 Server Pacha 088 
 
 Setis 572,585 
 
 Seven Sleepers, tl'.e 009 
 
 Seward, Mr., declines Jajanesc invita- 
 tion to a great banquet 53 
 
 his interview with Japanese for- 
 eign minister ('1-C5 
 
 gives audience at U. S. consulate. 73 
 
 audience witli Mikado 79 
 
 opinions on Franco 115, 110 
 
 meets an acquaintance on the Co- 
 lorado 120 
 
 iriendly reception at Tung-Chow, I3'J 
 
 entrance into Peking 143 
 
 audience of imperial cabinet. . . . 155 
 
 age 159 
 
 views on the Gicat Wall of China, 
 
 203, 204 
 
 discussion with Sir. Drev/ tn Chi- 
 
 nc.-c afiUirs 2.'i2 
 
 as.-ault on, at IL.n-Kow 210 
 
 speech at Kong-Kong 277, 279 
 
 halfway round the woild G4"i 
 
 remarks on linane.'S of India. . . . 3'. 4 
 
 speech at Ben, bay 5ol 
 
 remarks on India 5lKl-51i» 
 
 scventictli birthday 577 
 
 conversation with a pacha at C.;i- 
 
 ro 015,010 
 
 remarks on ancient Egyptians, 023, 024 
 
INDEX. 
 
 787 
 
 TAQB 
 510 
 
 500, C02 
 
 u4G 
 
 590 
 
 \[[[ 17 
 
 28-30 
 
 " 105 
 
 '" " "' 110 
 
 rorcign Af- 
 
 . . 015, 017, C.19 
 
 r 154 
 
 '"'_ 29 
 
 iissaJor 750 
 
 U71 
 
 ....... 42:, 433 
 
 " 88 
 
 nthc IJolIcv 
 
 13 
 
 ' " _ 590 
 
 ' '_ 093 
 
 _"/. " 399 
 
 ' ' ' CSS 
 
 ........ 57-2,585 
 
 \ 009 
 
 I ancsc invUu- 
 
 ', 53 
 
 Japanese foi- 
 
 Cl-fiS 
 
 F. consuUUc. 73 
 
 do '■•• 
 
 115, 110 
 
 nco on the Co- 
 
 120 
 
 \i Tung-Chow, 139 
 
 „jr 143 
 
 il cabinet l')'"^ 
 
 159 
 
 V\'all of China, 
 
 20;;, 204 
 Drew en Chi- 
 232 
 
 Kmv ".".'. '...•• -1" 
 
 ,nc '.i'T, U79 
 
 > woiUl "'■*"' 
 
 s of India.... ■■'■'^ 
 
 501 
 
 500-510 
 
 ,. 577 
 
 a pacha at C:\\- 
 
 015, 010 
 
 I i:-yplians, 023, 0'24 
 
 PAGE 1 
 
 Seward, Mr., firman from the Sultan. . 033 
 
 impressions of Palestine . . . 068, COS 
 
 reception at Constantinople 085 
 
 interview with the Turkish Sultan, 
 
 706, 708 
 
 remarks on Turkey 709-711 
 
 reception at Vienna 720 
 
 dinn.-r with M. Thiers 755-758 
 
 in Downing Street 772 
 
 return home 777 
 
 speech at Aul)urn 777, 778 
 
 (i. F., consul 107, 120, 128, 209 
 
 Olive Kisley 4 
 
 Shah Jchan.. . . ." 435, 437, 438 
 
 i Shan-Tung, steamer ... 115, 127, 223, 224 
 
 Shanghai 105, 110-113, 224 
 
 Promontory 117, 120 
 
 Sharon 025 
 
 Shcba, the tombs of the Tycoons 05 
 
 Sheik, Selim Cliisti .' 420, 427 
 
 Sheii-Tnjcn, a Chinese poet 22o 
 
 Sliopard, Mr., U. S. consul at Yeddo. 4ii, 79 
 
 Sliermaii, City of . . 13 
 
 Sliisliak, King 587 
 
 Slioshones, remnant of 25 
 
 Shumsli-nodccti-Altamsh 440 
 
 Sierra Nevada, ascent and descent of, 20, 27 
 
 Silas E. Ruriows & Co 270 
 
 Silver I.-^lind 244 
 
 Sinnnons, Mrs 226 
 
 Singapore 295-298 
 
 steamer 34 1 
 
 Siout 500 
 
 Siva, Temple of. 392 
 
 Sjiandjioer, J.iva 320 
 
 Slavery, conservation of. 27 
 
 Smith, Archer &, Co., China merchants, 
 
 255, 270 
 
 Smith, Dr 780 
 
 Smithers, Mr 073 
 
 Smuggling in Ciiina 254 
 
 Smyrna 007 
 
 Socotra 510 
 
 Somnath, gates of. 423 
 
 Soum il, ur. at Aden 515 
 
 Southern Cross, the Oil 
 
 Sphinx, the 541, 542 
 
 Sta'mplli, Mr 715 
 
 Star of Iiidi 1, order of 390 
 
 States, new, influence of 12 
 
 Steamer America, meeting on the 32 
 
 Steamer China 31 
 
 Stewart, U. S. consul at lliogo 80 
 
 Stone, Mrs 534 
 
 Story's Cleopatra and Sibyl 737 
 
 Strabo 592 
 
 Suez 522 
 
 Canal 523-527 
 
 Oil 
 088 
 012 
 
 Sugar of Kgypt 
 
 Sultan, Abdul Aziz 087, 
 
 Pacha 558, 010- 
 
 Turkish, Mr. Seward's ii.tcrview 
 
 with 700- 
 
 Sumatra 299, 
 
 Sunda, Straits ol'. 
 
 Surabaya 818, 
 
 Susa 
 
 Swinging round the circle 
 
 Swiss President 
 
 Switzerland, polities of 744- 
 
 a miniature America 
 
 Syra 073, 
 
 Synagogue, American 
 
 Taj-Mahal 4''!5, 
 
 Taku 122, 
 
 Tankoeban volcano 
 
 Templars, Knighis 721, 
 
 Temple of Agriculture 
 
 of Heaven 
 
 of the (ircat lid!, Cliina 
 
 Sir Richard 393, 
 
 Tcnno, sec Mikado. 
 
 Thames River 
 
 Tiicbcs 57S-5F5, 590, 
 
 Thcodosius, edict of 
 
 Thiers, Mailamc 
 
 President 75i: 
 
 (i).). 
 
 Thile, M 
 
 Thomas, Saint 
 
 Thoutmosis II. and III 
 
 Thou«and-milc tree 
 
 Tien-Tsien, massacre at 110, 1 14, 
 
 124, 125, 129, 131, 140, 212, 213, 
 
 Tigh, Major 453, 
 
 Tildcn, Captain 
 
 Timber from Corea 
 
 Tinos 
 
 Tokiiidi), the Jaiiiini'so highway 
 
 Tombs, Chinese, .Mr. Seward's remarks 
 on 
 
 Ming, Ciiina. 
 
 708 
 300 
 302 
 320 
 740 
 385 
 744 
 •746 
 744 
 074 
 053 
 
 430 
 123 
 833 
 725 
 170 
 109 
 191 
 440 
 
 771 
 010 
 007 
 755 
 750 
 700 
 372 
 594 
 16 
 
 22"' 
 470 
 137 
 131 
 073 
 48 
 
 207 
 206 
 
783 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Townscnd House, Ogden 17 
 
 Travancorc, steamer 217 
 
 Tuckcrmaii, Mr., U. S. ininit^tjr to 
 
 Greece 082 
 
 Tung-Chow V^l, \oo, 1^9, 222 
 
 Tung-Lu 231 
 
 Tung-T:ijcn, a Chinese poet 220 
 
 Turkey, observations on 7<.9-722 
 
 Turkish women .' G98 
 
 Tycoon, the Japanese 58, 92 
 
 Tycoons, tombs of, at Shcba 05 
 
 UmbalUi 452, -153 
 
 United States, progress of trade 775 
 
 Universalists, Lincoln's story of 513 
 
 Upton, Mr 743 
 
 Utah, a wonderful success 23 
 
 Valide. Princes* 533, 534, 015 
 
 Van Dvck, Dr 050 
 
 Van Valkenburgli, U. S. minister to 
 
 Japan 88, 153 
 
 Vaina 7<!8 
 
 Vasco do Gama 373 
 
 Venice 724 
 
 Ver.oRla, Visconti 737 
 
 Verplanek's J'oinf 777 
 
 Versailles 751 
 
 Vesuvius 738 
 
 Via Dolorcsa 040 
 
 Victor Emmanuel 737, 740 
 
 Vienna 719 
 
 Vindhya Mountains 478 
 
 Visigapatam, M iharajah of 4(I0 
 
 Vlangally, General 31, 140, 151, 220 
 
 Wade, Mr. and Mr.? 152 
 
 Wady, a 530 
 
 Wahsateh Mountains 15, 10 
 
 Walsh, Mr 40,80, 81 
 
 a hall at his house 77 
 
 Wang, Ctptain 127, 128 
 
 Wan-Slang 157, 158, 183-180 
 
 Warden, Mr 115, 140, 240 
 
 Mr;; 110, 114 
 
 Wa-hburne, Mr 750, 703 
 
 Weber Canon 10 
 
 River 10 
 
 Webster and Adams, anecdote of ... . 139 
 
 PAGB 
 
 Welti, Mr 744 
 
 Wessiier, Mif^s 5ii5 
 
 Westropp, Sir M. IJ 501 
 
 Whampoa '.; 54 
 
 Wheal on, Chinese trai;slation of 183 
 
 Wheeler, Lieutenant 445 
 
 Williams, Dr HO, 184 
 
 Wilson, Captain C44 
 
 Winslow, Admiral, hero of the Kcar- 
 
 saigc 20 
 
 Women, Chinese, abasement of 247 
 
 Women, Turkish 098 
 
 Wood, Mr 071 
 
 Woolsey, Dr., daughters of C57 
 
 Woosung 105, 115, 225 
 
 Wu-Chang 285-237, 239 
 
 Wurtz, Mr 725 
 
 Wyoming, Territory of. 12 
 
 Xavicr, St. Francis 98, 490, 497 
 
 Yang Fang, a Chinese pawnbroker. . . . 102 
 
 smoking-room 100 
 
 wife 1C3 
 
 Yang-tse 244 
 
 Yang-tse-kiang River 220-229 
 
 Yang-tsc-kiang, mouth of; 1 15, 1 10 
 
 Yeddo bS 
 
 visit to 53 
 
 how built C5 
 
 artisans, artists, and manufac- 
 turers 74 
 
 bay of, .storm in 54, 55 
 
 Yellow Sea 105, 115, 110 
 
 Yokohama, arrival at 39 
 
 bay of 39 
 
 Young, IJrigham 19-22, 24 
 
 Colonel <41,4M 
 
 Mr 295, 298 
 
 Yousscf and his donkey 599 
 
 Yucn-Min-Vucn, China 192-195 
 
 Yung-Lo, Chinese emperor. . 191, 207, £08 
 Y'ussef EITendi 040 
 
 Zachariah, tomb of 048 
 
 Zenana mission 4(iO, 401 
 
 Zeminilars !>''"'' 
 
 Zuaking 241 
 
 TU E END. 
 
rAGB 
 
 744 
 
 \ DOS 
 
 *_ 501 
 
 ',54 
 
 on of 1^'^ 
 
 445 
 
 ..... 140, 184 
 " C44 
 
 ,f the Kcui'- 
 
 20 
 
 nt of! !'.'... 247 
 098 
 
 ....... CJl 
 
 )V.'.'.' C57 
 
 _ 105,115,225 • 
 
 ... 235-237,239 
 
 725 
 
 ".'. 12 
 
 98,490, 497 
 
 wnbroUcr 1''- 
 
 ICG 
 
 ' 1C3 
 
 '* '" 244 
 
 I" 220-229 
 
 bS 
 
 *."..'. 53 
 
 C5 
 
 nd niaiiufao- 
 
 74 
 
 54, 55 
 
 .. 105, 115, 110 
 
 39 
 
 " ' ' " 39 
 
 ..... 19-22,21 
 
 ...... <4l,-i:l 
 
 295 29S 
 
 y. '.'.".".".' •'•'■^ 
 
 192-195 
 
 „' 1(11 '->07, 208 
 cror. . 1.11, -'■") •- 
 
 010 
 
 OlS 
 
 400, 401 
 
 3i'i8 
 
 . 241 
 
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 \Mtriwn Editors Preface. 
 
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