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APPLETON AND COMPANY, 549 & 551 BROADWAY. 18V3. < M t; ^1 Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1873, by William H. Seward, Jr., Executor, and Olive Rislet Seward, Executrix, of the last Will and Testament of William H. Sbwabd, decciised, in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. *m COJN^TETq^TS. PART I. zecutor, 'iLLiAU ton. UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. Chap. I. AuDURN TO San Francisco: Mr. Seward'a Companions. — His Farewell to his Neighbors. — Western New York. — Niagara. — Canada and its Destiny. — Influ- ence of Immigration. — Africo- Americans. — Detroit. — Chicago. — President Grant — Mississippi and Missouri Rivers. — Cedar Rapids. — Omaha. — New Classification of States. — Council Bluffs. — Bridges over Navigable Rivers. — Settlement of Western States. — Cheyenne. — The Rocky Mjuntains. — Influence of Mountain States. — Sherman. — Separation. — Mountain >J omenclature. — Weber Canon. — Salt Lake City. — 'ilie Mormons, their Doctrines, Secular Priesthood. — Brigham Young's Sermon. — His Family. — Polygamy. — The Irrepressible Conflict in Utah. — The Shoshones. — Destiny of the Indians. — Sierra Nevada. — Reno. — Railroads. — Result of Abolition of Slavery. — Sacramento. — Arrival at San Fran- cisco. — Civilization of California. — Chinese Immigration, .... 3 II, From San Francisco to Japan : The Vessels of the Pacific Mail Line. — Our Fel- low-Passengers. — "The Great Company of the Preachers." — The Chinese Pas. sengers. — The Great Event of the Voyage. — The Moods of the Sea. — A Still Greater Event. — The Loss of a Day. — The Oyascutus. — The Beginning of the End. — The Coast of Japan. — The Ocean-Fisheries, 31 PART II. JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. I. Yokohama and i.s Vicinity : The Bay of Yokohama. — Natives and Foreigners. — Native Costunes. — Japanese Barbers. — The Tokaido. — Japanese Cemeteries, Gardens, and Temples. — Monks and '.lunasteries. — Kamakura. — The Great Statu - of Buddha.— The Daibutz, 39 IL Visit to Ykddo. — Interview avith the Mikado: Interview with the Japanese Prime-Minister. — Tremendous Storm. — Some Points of History. — The Mikado and the Tycoon. — Japanese Foreign Office. — Minister Sawa. — The Question of Saghalien. — Tlie Toii.bs of the Tycoons. — A Speck of War. — The Delmonico of Yeddo. — Sketcbc of Ycddo. — The Interview with the Mikado, . . 53 III. From Yeddo to Shanghai : Iliogo. — The Place of Massacre. — A Japanese Steamer. —The Gulf of Osaka,— A Harem on a Picnic.— The City of Osaka.— The Ty- coon's Castle. — Japanese Troops. — Nagasaki. — Beautiful Scenery. — Christians of Nagasaki. — Japanese Character. — Departure ibr China. — Concluding Re- flections on Japan, 86 < n f3 '1 1 :] w ^1 r* CI i; u r? H IV CONTENTS. ! i I CnAP. IV. The Coast of China: Wosung. — U. S. Ship Colorado. — Slianf;lmi. — European " Conoc.-^sions." — A Mandiuiii Procession.—Chi-Tujt'U nnd Suii-Taji'ii. — Kuro- poan and Cliino.se Civilization. — Forcijin rri\ju(rn'os against tlio Cliineso. — The Shan Tung. — The Yellow Sea. — The News from Franee. — Chee-l'oo, the New- port of Chnia. — A Rough Voyage, 105 V. Up thk Pki-iio Uiveii : Mouth of the Pei-ho. — Chinese Forts. — American Guns'. — The Most Crooked and Mean of Rivers. — Chinese Dog.s. — A Misunderstanding. — Captain Wang. — Our Flotilla. — The City of Tien-Tsin. — Aspect of the Conn- try.— Our IJoat-Life. — Absence of Animals, — A Messenger from Peking. — A Chinese Trailer.— Tung-Chow, 123 VI. Arrival at Pekiso : Passing through Tung-Chow. — Good Behavior of the People. — The Road to Peking. — A Dangerous Highway. — Daniel Webster and John Adams. — A Review of Our Party. — A (irotcsque Procession. — The Eastern Gate of Peking. — The Separation of the Party. — Anxiety for Mr. Seward. — lu Woful Plight. — An Explanation. — Arrival at the U. S. Legation, . . . 138 VII. Residence in Peking: Aspect of Peking. — The Walk on the Wall. — The Foreign Population of Peking. — Two American Chinese. — Native Wares. — The F'oreign Ministers. — The Russian Minister. — The British Legation. — Influence of the United States.— The Hall of Science. — Mr. Seward's Audience with the Imperial Cabinet. — A Ladies' Day. — Chinese Ladies. — A Chinese Mansion, . 145 VIII. Residence in Peking (Continued): The Decay of China. — The Temple of Heaven. — The Temple of Agriculture, — The Temple of Buddha. — The Chinese Bonzes. — The Temple of Confucius. — The Religion of China. — A Pleasant Reunion. — The Birds of Peking. — An Official Dilemma. — Interview with Wau-Siang. — In- fluence of Burlingame, 168 IX. Visit to the Great Wall : Preparations for the Trip. — Our Vehicles. — The Summer Palace. — Pagodas. — First Night under a Chinese Roof. — A Chinese Tavern. — Approach to the Great Wall. — The Mongolians. — The Cost of the W'all. — Inquisitive Chinese. — The Second Wall. — The Ming Tombs. — A Mis- guided Mule, 188 X. Last Days in Peking : Cham-Ping-Chow. — A Chinese Inn. — The Roman Catho- lies in China. — The Cathedral.— The Tien-Tsin Massacre. — Christian Policy. — Interview with Robert Hart. — A Letter from Sun-Tajen and Chi-Tajen. — Letter from Prince Kung. — Interview with the Prince. — The Prince's Present. — De- parture from Peking, 211 XI. The Return to Shanghai: Once more on he Pei-ho. — The Ladies at Tien-Tsin. — The Shan Tung. — Pigeon English. — Tempestuous W'eather. — Visit to the Flag-ship Colorado. — Departure of Mr. and Mrs. Randall. — On board the Plym- outh Rock, 222 XII. Up the Yang-t -e-Kiang : The Mississippi of China. — 'Jhing-Kiang. — Large Freights. — Nanking. — The Porcelain Tower. — A Specimen Brick. — Abundance of Game. — Scenery on the River. — Ku-Kiang. — Conversation with Mr. Drew. — Policy of the United States. — ITan-Kow. — Ascent of the Promontory. — Magnificent View. — Cheerful Aspect of Han-Kow. — Excursion to W^oo-Chang. — A Disagreeable Adventure, 227 Xin. Return to Shanghai : Departure from Han-Kow. — Chinese Military Art. — A Marvellous Echo, — The Imperial Canal. — Approach to Chin-Kiang. — The United States Steamer Alaska. — Running down a Junk. — An Apology from the Viceroy. — The Comprador. — Chinese Ladies. — Embark on an English Steamer, 241 ruAP, XIV, FnoM Sua: men, — '1 Acciuain XV, From Hon — C.mto America — Maiiu XVL Canton ( School-I The Clii cution.- XVII. At Hong-] I'lshcric Dinner i I]astorn XVIII. A Gi.ANri: F'ellow-I French . bodia. THE EAST. L The Chin. Home.— Boston.- — A Dul and Sun II. TiiK Capit England —The C —The ^ zorg, . III. Excursion Flowers, is goveri —The r IV. Mr. Sewai The Wn —A Clr ban.— P The Jap V. At Batavi fast.— A Dutch C VI. From Bat Singapoi —Bay Gallc— CONTENTS. ,' ) CUAV. XIV. XV. XVI. XVII. XVIII. FiiOM SnANT.iiAi TO IIoso-KoNfi : Had AVcatlier. — Cold Wcitlior. — V.-Jiicty of Sca- iiu'ii. — The Sliip's Accoiiiinotliitionrt, — IIoiiu-Koii;^. — Itciuitil'iil Seeiicry. — Old Ac(|iiaiiitiint'cs roiiewcd. — Native iiiul l"'oroii.;ii Populiition, . . . 249 FiiOM HoNd-KoNfi TO Canton; The Chim'se C<)ustinf;;-T'iii(U'. — Chiiio^o Snmir^lcvs. — Cantor. Uivir-IiaiiUs. — Aspect of Canton. — The liiitish Coneessioii. — The Anieriean Ilonj^s. — The Consul and the Tou-tai. — The Diet of the Cantonese. — Maniifaet urea of Canton. — The Teini)les of Canton, . . . '253 Canton {('onthiucd): A Chinese Villa. — The Hall of Ancestors. — A Chinese Seliool-Hoora. — Another Villa. — An Opium-Den. — Kxtcnt of Opiuin-Sniokini^. — The Chinese Chronometer. — Tluf Street of Malefaetors. — The Place of Kxo- eution.— A City of the Dead.— Canton at Niglit, .... 206 At IloNO-KoNO AGAIN : Chinese Emi^'ration to the United States. — The Canton fisheries. — American Houses in China. — A Conil)ination of (lamlilers. — A Dinner at the United States Consulate. — Mr. Seward's Speech. — Oriental and Eastern Civili/ation. — Policy of China. — Prospects of China, . . 275 A Cii.ANCK AT Cochin China: The Steamer Provence. — Island of Ilainati. — Our Fellow-Passen^^crs. — The Mouth of the Saij^on River. — Tiie City of S lij^on. — French Aptitude for Coloniz.ilion. — French Photographs. — The Queen of Cnin- bodia, 284 PART III. I'^nglish TIIE EASTERy ARCHIPELAGO, STRAITS OF MALACCA, AND CEVLOX. :M I. The China Sea, Sinoapore, and the Straits of Sunda ; Our Distance from Home. — Calm Seas and Temperate Hreezes. — Singapore. — A Dispatch from Boston. — The People of Singapore. — Their Habitations. — Life in the Tropics. — A Dutch Steamer. — Our Crew. — A Question of Races. — Rather Hot. — Hanca and Sumatra. — The Straits of Sunda, 295 II. Thk Capital of Java: The City of Hatavia. — The Hotel dcs Indos. — A New- England Sabbatii. — Malay Servants. — The King's Plain. — Population of Java. — The Queen of the East. — Departure for Buitenzorg. — Manner of Travelling. — The Vice-Regal Residence. — The Climate of Java. — The Baths of Buiten- zorg, ,104 III. Excursion into thk Interior : A Balking IIor.se. — Cultivation of Rice. — Tropical Flowers. — Surabaya. — The Regent Prawiro. — Dutch Colonization. — How Java is governed. — Bandong. — The Regent and the Interpreter. — A Gouty Jlonarch. — The Regent's Income. — How he spends it, 318 IV. Mr. Sewari> at Bandong : Excursion to the Cascade. — A Perilous Road. — The Water-Fall. — An Evcnng at the Palace. — The Bayaderes. — Two Dwarfs. — A Chorus of Peasants. — The Little Princesses. — An Excursion to Tankoe- ban. — Peruvian Bark. — The Top of the Volcano. — An Enchanting Scene. — The Japanese Prince, 328 V. At Batavia aoain. — The Malays: Farewell to Bandong. — A Tropical Break- fast. — A Breakfast in the Rotanieal Crardcns. — A Princely Native Artist. — Dutch Colonization. — Character of the Malay Race. — Chinese Immigration, 336 VI. From Batavia to Madras ; An Uncomfortable Steamer. — An Accident. — At Singapore. — Ihitish Hospitality. — The Port of Penang. — A Loyal Englishman. — Hay of Bengal. — Half-Way Round the World. — Arrival at Ceylon. — Point de Galle. — A Short Visit to the Shore. — A Hindoo Crew. — Off Pondichcrrv, 311 c 2 < n 'J Ti' CONTENTS. PART IV. liRITISIl INDIA. Chap. I. MAnnAS : Madras from tlic Sea.— Governor Napier. — The Government House. — A Ili'uloo Giiln' Siliool. — Hishop Ilclwr. — Hiiti.sh Dominion in India. — Kear- Admiral Cockburn. — Maoliincry of (Jovcrnnient. — A Meeting of tlio K.xoeutive Council. — Lord Cornwalli.-*. — Tlie Legislative Council. — Hindoo Mu.sic, . 'Ao'i II. Mahius {Covdnucl): An Excursion to Arcot. — Railroads in Ilindostnn. — Ap- pearance of the Country. — The Homage of Flowers. — Cauvcrypak. — The Na- tive System of Cultivation. — Visit to a liramin. — Schools. — A Car of Jugger- naut. — The Dutch Reformed Mission. — Hack to Madras. — The Portuguese Settlement. — (iindy Park. — A Diamond Merchant. — Lord and Lady Nipicr. — The Normal School, 305 III. From Mai)r.\s to Calcutta : The Surf at ^ladras. — On the Ray of Rcngal. — The Lion-Whelps. — The Hoogly. — The A'iceroy's Invitation. — Earl and Count- ess Mayo. — Glimpses of Calcutta. — The Raboo. — The Baboo's House and Harem. — The Government House, 377 IV. Calcutta {Continued): The Maharajah of Puttcc.ala. — Oriental Magnificence. — Kali Ghaut. — The Temple. — Hindoo Idols. — KaH. — Siva. — A Mohammedan Mosque. — The Reading of the Budget. — Indian Finances. — The King of Gudc. —The Prince of Oudo, 388 V. Barrackpore and Serampore : Barrackpore Park and its Beauties. — Magnifi- cent Trees. — The Menagerie. — The Lion-Whelps. — Seramporc. — Its Mission- aries and Mission-Schools. — Return from Barrackpore. — Fort William. — The Woman's Union Missionary Society and its Schools, .... 398 VI. From Calcutta to Benares : Courtesy of the East India Railway Company. — Unattractive Scenery. — The Scenery improves. — Aspect of the Country and the People. — A Stop at Patna. — A Tiger Hunter. — The Cultivation of the Poppy. — The Maharajah of Benares. — A Night on the Ganges. — A Brilliant Display. — Glory Hallelujah. — A Compliment to Mr. Seward, . . 102 VII. Benares : The Sacred City of the Hindoos. — The Cradle of Buddhism. — Sornath. — Remarkable Towers. — The Holy River. — The Ghauts. — Singular Architecture. — The Mosques and their Minarets. — A Picturesque Scene on the River-Bank. — S /a and Doorga. — Manufacture of Idols. — Magnificence of Benares, . 408 VIII. Allahabad, Lucknow, and Agra : Allahabad, the City of God. — Cawnpore. — Lucknow, the Capital of Oude. — Extent of the Country. — Arrival at Agra. — A Marvellous Monument of Arms, Arts, and Empire. — Akbar the Great. — His Vast Architectural Works. — The Pearl Mosque. — Futtehpore Sikra. — Its Great Wall.— The Tomb of Sheik Selim Chishti.— The Ranch Mahal— Akbar's Tomb. — His Wealth. — His Horses and his Elephants. — Weighing his Presents, 418 IX. Secundra and the Taj-Mahal : The Tomb of Akbar. — Derivation of the Name of Secundra. — The Taj-Mahal, the Tomb of the Banoo Begum. — Description of the Taj.— The Tomb of King Cotton.— The Inferiority of Indian Cotton. — Mode of packing it, 433 X. Delhi, the Mogul Capital : A Vivid Contrast to Agra. — Ludlow Castle.— Brief Sketch of Hindoo ni.rtory. — The Persians. — The Greeks. — The Arabs.— Sultan Mahmoud. — The Mongols or Moguls. — Foundation of Delhi. — Successive Changes of Site. — The Kootub Minar. — A Singular Iron Shaft. — The Mogul Tombs.— The Tomb of Jchanara.— The Jumna Musjid. — The Imperial Palace. — Farewell to Delhi 441 Chap. XL Umballa a Mutiny.- Puttecala — Entran 1 XH. Puttkeala The Pris r r glcrs.— T The Youi rajah's C( 'i XIIL A (!lance of the J I luminatio the Ilinui < XIV. ALLAIIABAn of India.- bulpoor.— i^ and Beau XV. Bombay : T bay. — A Afglian, a and the '^ ■ and Parse i i Excursion '^ XVL An Excursi 1 dicament. History Character ReminiscL XVII. Last Days ful Ackn( Indies of ble.— The ;^ — Departi j XVIIL From Bombj ard's Ren doo Mind of Socotr A New St I. The Red S The Port the Red Track of Inaugura CONTENTS. Vll I'lUP. XI. UwnAi.LA AND ruTTEKALA : McpHit, tlio Pccnc of tlio Oiitbrcnk of the fircnt Mutiny. — Hindoo rilgrims. — Fii;*t Vimv of the Himaliiyns. — Invitationa to ruttecalu. — .lourni'y thither. — The (Mty of Puttecahi. — ('oudu's or KlcphiinLs ? — Entrance into I'utteeala. — A Magnificent Procession. — Our I'alace, . 4.'')2 XII. rvTrv.v.Ai.\(C(>nliinic(l): Oriental Displays an>l Diversions. — The Mena};;erie. — The I'risons. — The Heir-Apparent. — An Klephant-Fight. — .testers and Jug- glers. — The Royal Palace. — Magnifieenee ol" the Maharajah. — The Durhar. — The Young Prince. — Superb Presents. — A Magnificent Salon. — The Maha- rajah's Conversation with Mr. Seward. — An Kxhibition of Fireworks, . 459 XIII. A (!lance at tiik Himalayas: Departure from Puttecala. — Along the Banks of the Junina. — I'roteetion from the Sun. — Reception at Pindarrie. — An Il- lumination. — Kalka and Ku^sowlee. — Tiie Ibitish Commissioner. — A View of the Himalayas. — An Irish Home, 471 XIV. Allaii.viia» and JunncLPOOii: An Interesting Debate. — Earl Mayo, the Viceroy of India. — His Murder. — Tfie Vindhya Mountains. — Industrial Activity of Jub- bulpoor. — An Elephant-Ride. — A Night Voyage on the Nerbudda. — Romantic and Beautiful Scenery. — Hindoo Tenderness for Animals, . . . 477 XV. Bombay : The Ghaut Mountains. — A Cosmopolitan City. — The Natives of Bom- bay. — A Mixed Population. — Chinese, Siamese, Javanese, Cingalese, Sikh, Afghan, and Cashmerian. — The Races of the South and the North, of the East and the West. — Parsee Customs. — Parsee Religion. — Hindoo, Mohammedan, and Parsee Disposal of the Dead. — Admiral Coekburn. — The Great Heat. — An Excursion to Elcphanta, 482 XVI. An Excursion to Goa : A Voyage on the Coast of Malabar. — A Perilous Pre- dicament. — Dubious Navigation. — Situation of Goa. — OITieial Courtesies. — History of Goa. — The Old City. — St. Francis Xavier. — Miraculous Cures,— Character of Xavier. — Public Institutions. — The Governor's Villa. — Historical Reminiscences. — A Goa Poet. — A Cordial Farewell, .... 492 XVII. Last Days in Bombay : The Byculla Club,— Mr. Seward's Speech. — His Grate- ful Acknowledgments to his Entertainers. — The Indies of the East and the Indies of the West. — Growing Civilization of the East. — A Progress irresisti- ble. — The New Concord. — Policy of the Anglo-Saxon Race. — Miss Wessner. — Departure from Bombay, 501 XVIII. From Bombay to Aden : Once more at Sea. — The Steamer Deccan. — Mr. Sew- ard's Remarks on India. — Natural Religion. — The Characteristics of the Hin- doo Mind, — England's Hold on India. — The Regeneration of India. — The Island of Soeotra. — Arrival at Aden. — An Extinct Volcano. — Wise Old England ! — A New Stage of the Voyage. — Red-Haired Negroes, .... 506 PART V. EGYPT AND PALESTINE. I. The Red Sea and Sue;! Canal : The Gate of Tears,— The Rock of Perim.— The Port of Mecca. — Imaginary Terrors, — Pleasant Weather. — The Coasts of the Red Sea. — The Division of the Races. — A Refreshing Atmosphere, — Tho Track of the Israelites, — Suez. — The Ancient Canal. — The New Canal. — Its Inauguration. — Its Prospects, . . . - . , . . 519 c O > 1 f9 I) \ VIU CONTENTS. CnAP. II. Ill, IV. VI. VII. vin. IX. ,'-* From SrEZ to Cairo : The Bedouin Arabs. — A AVady.— Go<-hcn. — Nubian Troop!!. — A Hiilendid Sunset.— Tlie Pulaco of Repose. — The Khedive. — Tlic Popula- tion of Egypt. — The Khedive's Improvements. — A Visit to the Harem. — The Female Slaves. — Egypt and Utah, 028 Cairo and the Pyramids • The Road to tlie Pyramids. — The Stylo of the Vice- roy. — Interior of the Great Pyramid. — The Sphinx. — Mariette Bey. — Use of the Pyramids. — Rapacious Arabs. — The Phcenix. — The Site of On. — Ruins of Heliopolis. — The Tree of the Holy Family. — Mohammed Tauphik. — The Amer- icans in Egypt. — The Citadel of Cairo. — A Museum of Antiquities. — Modern Cairo. — The Copts. — The Niiometer. — The Tombs of the Caliphs. — The Ceme- teries of Cairo. — The Mosques. — The Dancing Dervishes. — Ghezireh. — Polyga- my. — The Cairo of To-day, 539 Up the Nile : Embarkation at Ghizeh. — The Pyramids of Saccara. — The Two Deserts. — Siout. — The American Vice-Consul. — Sultan Pacha. — Character of the Nile. — Slave-Boats. — Arab Villagers. — The Birds of the Nile. — The Popu- lation on th Banks. — Domestic Animals. — Personal Arrangements. — A Tip- pling Monkey, 5.59 From Abtdos to Thebes : The Ruins of Abydos. — The Sheik of Bellianeh. — A Misunder^tandii-g. — A Dinner in the Ruins. — A Night in the Temple.— Explor- ing the Ruins.- By whom were they built? — Germs of Religious Ideas. — The Temple of Dendera. — Mr, Seward's Birthday, 568 Thebes a\d its Ruins : What Thebes is now. — A Grand Reception, — A Fed- eral Salute. — Tlie Scenery of the Nile. — The Temple of Luxor. — The Houses of the Consuls. — History of Luxor, — Karnak. — The Hall of the Gods. — King Shishak. — Sphinx Avenues. — Wc dine with the Vicc-Consul. — The Colossi. — The Ancient Tombs,— The Tombs of the Kings. — Animal Worship. — T'le Ra- meseum. — Grandeur of Thebes, 578 Esneii, Edfou, A,«souan, and Piiil^ : The Coptic Convents. — Youssef and his Donkey. — Our Steamer aground. — The Ruins of Fsneh. — The Temple of Edfou. — Assouan. — Its Surprising Activity. — Its African Population. — The Ancient Quarries. — Phila; and the Cataracts of the Nile. — A Monument of the First French Republic, 598 Last Days in Egypt: The Vice-Consul's Ilarem. — Kennch and its Pottery. — The Sugar of Egypt. — Memphis. — Its Ruins. — The Downfall of Idolaters. — Again at Cairo. — Conversation with a Pacha. — Alexandria. — Aspect of the City. — Interview with the Khedive. — Sir Henry Bulwer. — Pompey's Pillar. — The Khedive's Yacht. — Concluding Reflections on Egypt, . . . CIO jERUiiALEsi: A Levantine Coasting-Steamer, — The Green Fields of Sharon. — Jaffa. — i{amleh. — Lydda. — Rural Population. — First View of Jerusalem. — Mr. Sew- ard's Reception. — The Sultan's Firman. — Church of the Holy Sepulchre. — Religious Intolerance. — .Mount Calvary. — The Via Dolorosa. — The Mosque of Omar.— The Mos(iuc El-Aksa, 025 Jeupsalem and its Neiciiboriiood : Bethlehem. — The Grave of Rachel. — The City of Jerusalem. — The Mount of Olives. — The Tomb of Zaehariah. — The Tomb of Ab.sftloni. — An American Jew. — Bethanj'. — Pilate's Palace. — The Greek Church in Palestine. — The Jews of Jerusiilom. — Their Wailing-Place, — The Jcwi.sh .^iibbath, — Attendance "^ the Synasrogue, — Bishop Gobat, — De- [>artiire Irom Jerusalem.— Juflk and Beirut, 045 COXTEXTS. IX Chap. Xi. From Palestine to Greece : Impressions of Palestine. — TIio Egyptian Race. — Egyptian Civilization. — Plmniicia and Palestine. — Tlio Four Religions. — What we owe to the Jews. — Present State of Palestine. — The Island of Cyprus. — The Cesnola Collection. — Smyrna. — An Excursion to Ephesus. — The Seven Sleepers. — Mr. Wood's Researches. — Tln^ Temple of Diana. — The Isles of Greece. — Tinos, — The City of Syra. — A illumiuatiou, . . , GD8 PART VI. EUROPE. I. Athens asd Constantinople: Athens. — The Pira?us. — The Ilymcttus. — The Ilys- sus. — Mr. Tuckerman. — Queen Olga. — Grecian Ruins compared with those of Egypt and Ilindostan. — Modern Greece, the Mexico of Europe. — The Sea of Marmora. — Taking Constantinople by Surprise. — A Coutrc-tcmps. — All's Well that I']nds W^ll. — The Sultan Abdul-Aziz. — A Busy Day. — Excursions. — Charms of Constantinople. — The Old Seraglio. — Fourth of July. — Robert Col- lege. — The Bos^ jrus. — Turkish Women. — The New Palace. — Untimely Visit. — Kiamil Pacha. — Audience with the Sultan. — Departure from Constanti- nople, 071) II. HcNGARV AND AUSTRIA; On the Danube. — Varna. — Rustchuk. — Wallachia. — German Travellers. — What shall wo say of Turkey ? — Redections on the Future of the Turks. — Orsova. — The Iron Gate. — Hungarian Loyalty. — Buda-Pesth. —Contrast of European and Asiatic Civilization. — The People of Pesth. — The Bridge of Buda. — The Buildings of Biida. — The History of Hungary. — The Danube. — Vienna. — John Jay. — Count Von Bcust. — Politics of Austria, 708 III. Italy: Venice. — American Knights Templars. — Florence. — Attractiveness of the City. — Rome. — The Coliseum. — Cardinal Antonelli and the Pope. — Interview with the Pope. — Tiie Italian Minister of Foreign AfTiiirs. — The Schools of Art. — Naples. — Vesuvius, — Early Civilization on the Mediterranean Coast. — Na- ples, the Newport of the Roman Empire. — Genoa. — Susa, — Prospects of Italy, 724 IV. Switzeulano ANr France ; Geneva. — The Alps. — The Tunnel of Mont Cenis.— Passports. — American Fondness for Switzerland. — Berne. — Swiss Statesmen and Politics. — Distress of France. — The Franco-German War. — Lord Lyons. — Mr. Washljurne. — Versailles. — The French Assembly. — President Thiers. — A Dinner with President Thiers. — Condition of France. — M. Drouyn de Lhuys. — M. Laboulaye. — Dr. Evans and the Empress Eugenic. — Aspect of Paris. — Pros- pects of France, 742 V. Germany, England, and Home: Belgium. — Berlin. — ^ir. Bancroft. — Humboldt. — The German Empire. — Its Rise and Grandeur. — Its Policy. — Hamburg. — A Free City. — A Handsome City. — On the Thames, — Activity of its Commerce. — Greatness of Loiulon. — Government Machinery in Great Britain, — Its Slow Working. — Rural Beauty of England, — On Board the Java. — Her Passengers. — Montrose-on-IIudson. — Return to Auburn. — Mr. Seward's Speech to his Neigh- bors, 705 Index, 771) c z M r1 > « I I »1 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Portrait op Mr. Seward (on stonl) Frontispiece Mr. Seward's Garden at Auburn 1 Mr. Seward's Home 5 New Suspension Bridge, Niagara Falls . 6 Cheyenne 11 Summit 12 Wahaatch Range 13 Leutze's " Course of Empire." 14 Devil's Gate, Weber Canon 15 Pulpit Rock IG Thousand-Mile Tree 17 Salt Lake Valley 18 Mormon Tabernacle 19 Brigham Young's Residence 21 The Remnant of a Tribe 25 Mouth of Big Cottonwood Cafion 26 San Francisco 28 Cliff House, San Francisco 29 Golden Gate 30 Meeting of the Steamers in Mid-ocean. S.T Fusi Yama, Coast of Japan 36 Yokoliama, Japan 41 Japanese Barbers 42 Japanese Girls 43 Japanese Cemetery 44 A Japanese Garden 46 Tea-house on the Tokaido 48 Group on the Tokaido 49 Temple at Kamakurn 50 Daibutz 51 Japanese Bonzes 52 American Legation at 1 oddo 57 PAtJB Japanese Oificer of State 60 Japanese Interpreter, in Court Dress.. 62 Interior of Sheba 64 Tombs of th'^ Tycoons 66 Nippon-Bas, Yeddo 67 British Legation, Yeddo 68 Hama^oten 70 Japanese Musician 72 A Book-store at Yeddo 75 Daimios' Quarter, Yeddo 78 United States Consulate, Hiogo 87 Temple at Osaka 89 Street in Osaka 91 Entrance to Nagasaki 94 Nagasaki Harbor 95 Temple of Buddha at Nagasaki 96 View of Decima 97 Woosung 106 Mandarin Procession 108 Custom-Houso, Shanghai Ill Mouth of the Yang-tse-kiang 116 Promontory of Shan-Tung 118 Chinese Fi^liing-smack 119 Chinese Dogs 125 Boats on the Pci-ho River 128 Chinese Agriculture 133 Western Gate, Poking 147 Lapis-lazuli Cat 150 Ancient Observatory, or Hall of Science 164 Prince Kung 157 Yang-Fang 162 Wife of Yang- Fang. (From a Photo- graph by himself.) 163 I Long Nails. . Yang-Fang's Sn Chinese Gate-w Temple of Ilea Tablet Hall., The Temple of Gate of the Te king Image of Confuc Chinese Cart. The Litter Summer Palace. Bridge on the G Palace . . Nan-Kow Pass The Great Wall. Gate at Xan-Ko\ Gate-way at Min Avenue to the M Bridge at Xankii er before its ] The Upper Yang Little Orphan Isl Chinese Theatric; Silver Island, on Scene on the Imp Hong-Kong Trading-Junk . . , Street in Canton. Entrance to the 1 Poon-ting-gua's A Opium-Smokers. . Chinese Tombs. . View in Hong-Kc Saigon, at the Moi Native of Saigon Artisan's House a Queen o*" Cambotl Singapore Street in Batavia. Married Woman ( A Javanese Girl. Scene in Java. . . . Government IIous Lily Pond, Palace Tropical Foliage, Javanese Fruit. . Scene in Java. . . The Uogont Praw The Regent of Bt cors LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. XI PAGE Long Nailg 1 134 Yaug-Fang's Smokiugroom 166 Chinese Gate-way 167 Temple of Ileaveu 170 Tablet Hall 172 The Temple of Confucius 176 Gate of the Temple of Confucius, Pe- king 178 Image of Confucius 179 Chinese Cart 189 The Litter IHO Summer Palace 102 Bridge on the Grounds of the Summer Palace 193 Nan-Kow Pass 196 The Great Wall 199 Gate at Xan-Kow 200 Gate-way at Ming Tombs 206 Avenue to the Ming Tombs 209 Bridge at Nanking, and Porcelain Tow- er before its Destruction 228 The Upper Yang-tsc-kiang 230 Little Orphan Island 231 Chinese Theatricals 238 Silver Island, on the Yang-tsc-kiang . . 243 Scene on the Imperial Canal 248 Hong-Kong 250 Trading-Junk 252 Street in Canton 257 Entrance to the Temple of Ilonan. . . . 261 Poon-ting-gua's Villa 266 Opium-Smokers 268 Chinese Tombs 273 View in Hong-Kong 274 Saigon, at the Mouth 285 Native of Saigon 288 Artisan's House at Saigon 290 Queen o^ Cambodia 291 Singapore 303 Street in Batavia 305 Married Woman of Java 306 A Javanese Girl 308 Scene in Java 310 Government House, Java 312 Lily Pond, Palace Grounds, Java 313 Tropical Foliage, Java 315 Javanese Fruit 316 Scene in Java 317 The Regent Prawiro da Kedya 321 The Regent of Bandong, with hia Ofli- cers 325 A Hostelry in Java 327 Dancing-Costume 330 Dancing-Girl 331 Bath at Sindanlaya 337 Javanese 340 Government House, Madras 855 Madras 364 The Surf at Madras 370 Residence of Richard McAlister, Cal- cutta 380 The Maharajah of Puttecala, Grand Commander of the Star of India. . . 389 Palace of the King of Oude 390 Barrackpore 401 Maharajah of Benares 405 Xautch Girls 407 Benares, from the Ganges 409 Great Buddhist Tower at Samath .... 410 Carving on Buddhist Tower at Sarnath. 41 1 Ghauts at Benares 413 Temples at Benares 410 Queen's College, Benares 417 Residency at Lucknow 419 Exterior of the Fort 422 Inlaid Screen, Tomb of Mina Begum, Agra 423 Scene on the Road to Futtehpore Sikra. 425 Saracenic Gate 420 Pillar in Akbar's Council-Chamber. . . . 428 Panch Mahal ^ 429 Carved Pillars in the Ruins of Futteh- pore Sikra 431 Akbar's Tomb at Secundra 432 Taj-Mahal 435 Cotton-Merchants, Agra 439 The Taj, from the Fountain 440 Delhi 442 The Kootub Minar 445 Elephants on the March at Puttecala. . 467 A Conjurer at Puttecala. 462 Elephants with Howdahs 464 The Prince of Puttecala 467 The Himalayas 476 The Nerbudda 481 Parsee Children 486 Entrance to the Caves of Elcphanta. . . 4(>'> Aden r>12 Ismailia C24 View on the Nile 52tf A Girl of Cairo 588 The Pyramids of Gizeh 540 c Ik o 'I .4 f » I « ' 1 .1 xu LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE The Sphinx , f>42 A Street in Cairo C-18 Street in Cairo C50 Mosque and Houses in Cairo 052 Interior of a Mosque, Cairo 054 Cairo, from tlio East 058 A Woraun on the Nile 066 Our Caravan 069 Temple of Dendera 074 Thebes 0*79 Obelisks at Karnak 081 Columns at Kariiak 084 Gate at Karnak 080 Capitals of Columns at Esueh 597 Youssef and his Donkey 099 I'hila; 606 Phihe 607 Pompey's Pillar 619 Jatta 626 Jerusalem, village of Siloam 631 Pool of Hezekiah 634 Dome of the Church of tlie Holy Sep- ulchre 636 View from the Walls of Jerusalem. ... C41 Mosque of Omar 642 liethlehem 646 Mosque on the Mount of Olives G49 PAGE Jews' Wailing-Place 602 Tower of David, Jerusalem C67 Ancient Syra and Modern Hcrmopolis. 672 A Greek Official 67* A Group of Heads from the Cesnola Collection 675 Athens 678 A Greek Woman 680 Bridge at Eleusis 681 The Temple of Victory, Athens 683 Albanian Co.stume 687 Mosque of St. Sophia, Constantinople. 688 Ancient Pillar at Constantinople 692 Fountain of the Seraglio 693 Seraglio, Constantinople 694 Turkish Wom.an in Street Dress 097 Turkish Girl in a Harem C99 Buda-Pesth 713 Count von Beust 721 Florence 726 The Coliseum, Rome 729 Cardinal Antonelli 731 Genoa 740 Drouyn de Lhuys 759 Hamburg 770 A Map showing Mr. Seward's Koute through Asia, Africa, and Europe. . 778 UNITED aSI c PART I. UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIO OCEAN. < CI a r% \ p 1 Mr. Seward's Comp Niagara. — Cana Detroit. — Chicai Rapids. — Omahi Navigable Hive tains. — Influcnc claturc. — Wcbei rriosthood. — Br sible Conflict ir — Reno. — Railrc Francisco. — Civi Aiihurn, At and an end. T AUBURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. Mr. Seward's Companions. — His Farewell to his Neighbors. — Western Now York. — Niagara. — Canada and its Destiny. — Influence of Immigration. — Africo-Americans. — Detroit. — Chicago. — President Grant. — Mississippi and Missouri Rivors. — Cedar Rapids. — Omaha. — New Classification of States. — Council Bluffs. — Bridges over Navigable Rivers. — Settlement of Western States. — Clieycnne. — The Roclvv Moun- tains. — Influence of Mountain States. — Sherman. — Separation. — Mountain Nomen- clature. — Weber Cauori. — Salt Lalie City. — Tlic Mormons, their Doctrines, Secular Priesthood. — Brigliam Young's Sermon. — His Family. — Polygamy. — The Irrepres- sible Conflict in Utah. — The Shoshones. - Destiny of the Indians. — Fiorra Nevada. — Reno. — Railroads Result of Abolition ^f Slavery. — Sacramento. — Arrival at San Francisco. — CiviUzatinn of Californi.'".. — Chinese Immigration. 'o M O t" i1 Axiburn, Avgnst 9, 1S70. — Every study must have a beginning and an end. These notes begin at Mr. Seward's embowered home, 4 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. i4:-^t^m whence our journey will begin, and tliey will end here, where, with God's blessing, the journe;y will end. Mr. Seward is accompanied by Olive Eisley Seward, hia adopted daughter, and by her siiier, Miss Kisley. The former, in writing these notes, records his political, social, moral, and philosophical observations and reflections, in his own words. Hanson A. Risley accompanies him only to the Pacific. Mr. Alexander W. llandall and Mrs. Eandall, and Mr. George F. Seward and Mrs. Seward, will join him at San Francisco. A thousand neighbors and friends are gathered around, whose parting words are made more touching by the fears and anxieties which they express concerning Mr. Seward's impaired strength. His resolute nature suggests the encouragement they need : " Travel improves health instead of exhausting it." " The journey, though long, is now made easy by steam on land and sea." " Wlien I come back, remember to meet me at the eastern door of the railway- station, though we part at the western one." Niagara Falls^ August lO^A. — Leaving the pleasant shore of the Owasco Lake, we crossed the Cayuga, passed around the foot of the Seneca, with its beautiful village of Geneva, looked upon the Canandaigua from its encircling hills, and came to a rest at Roch- ester, where the branches of the Central Eailroad unite. Thence, this morning, along the shore of Lake Ontario to Niagar,. The plain of "Western New York, gently descending from the lakes to the Hudson, and, under a traditional policy, well improved with canals and railroads, has, from the earliest period of colonial settlement, been a national thoroughfare. The enlightened political economy, as well as the liberal princi- ples and elevated social sentiments for which the State of IN'ew York is distinguished, is strongly reflected in the constitutions, laws, and manners, of the new Western States. We see, at Niagara, for the first time, the new bridge which has been built just below the great cataract. Like the old one, it is graceful enough ; but, " insatiate " bridge-makers, " could not one suffice?" George P. Marsh is right. Civilizatiun is a constant ■^^ 401 m l^S.Cftt ■«<c*^^ ■n,Z'^l r>:;«-*: jWT<|W- ^VJ^ J ; JTJ ,,jjiri:'' >-A*»w!-i' ►-^-i*^' ■:^:'«*o%-»- m ,^;: ^'i^'^ ' ;:/-- \'4 ^^ lSiss::#i', 'i-wL'^jiiiweBu/. ^:..aL i^«ii^l I ilNl 'Mk^y ■■Am i^l ■^i*-*a^»*«»c;.i4iss^~' ??K3js;/ mk ;*i!» Ji If t*.W,.;i'l;i! iii9;ti;'f;i^'^:ifl^11i' '111 I* ''!,>!;• rai.:,iiiiiin,ii w X w Q a. < a ' 1 i:{ . 4 r « ■- 1 ' ) 84 6 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. warfare of man against Nature. Katurc, however, was made for man, not man for Nature. Chatham^ Canada, August IQfh,.- Tf -^^.^s ratlier a surprise to meet a United States consul at n when we were less than NBW SUSPENSION BKIDOE, NIAOABA FALLS. twenty-four hours from home. But why do we go through Canada instead of keeping bur own lake-shore ? Because the Canadian route is the more direct one to Detroit. Moreover, have we not come abroad to see foreign countries, rather than our own % Canada, though no less fertile, is more thinly inhabited than the American shore. Immigration obeys political instincts. It prefers the established equality and social security of the United States. It will be long before either Canada or Mexico can realize its invigorating power. This may seem hard, but it is clear that only one great nation can be built on one continent at one time. The remedy for both of those countries is the same — accession to the United States. Canada has hesitated long, but it will see and feel tliis truth at last — that it is better to be an equal constituent member of a great, powerful, and free nation, than a small, feeble, and isolated state, even though equally free. At Chatham, mainly a colored settlement, Mr. Seward has been received wltli r comfurtublc an escape from sL (lerground i-ailv doubtless the Yirginny, to ol tion is the last dred freedmen, and great persv Yache, in ILiyt guished, and the Detroit, Aiu here, has been a Fitch, a client ot was struggling to In the War o surrender and cj Bull Run was th^ M'hieh only the n mount during a i The city grov Chicago, Aw merely of Americ English lady in ]> of our sea-coast t( Though an inlanc sea. Built in a 1; above the flood, neither the hoar cupidity of the o broad and fertile the destiny of Ch We meet here teristic modesty 1 DETROIT— CHICAGO. 7 received with much respect and kindness by the people, who seem conitortiiblo and respectable. They are fu<^'itives who made their escape from slavery in the United States, years ago, on the " un- derground railway." Now that slavery has been abolished there, doubtless the burden of their song is, " Carry me back to olo Yirginny, to olc Virginny shore." The Africo-American popula- tion is the last one that will desire to leave our country. A hun- dred freedmen, about Fortress Monroe, were induced by high offers and great persuasion, during our civil war, to colonize the Isle-a- Vache, in Ilayti. They complained, moaned, sickened, and lan- guished, and the government was obliged to bring them back. Detroit^ August l\th. — The interesting incident of our stop here, has been a visit to Mr. Seward of a daughter of Dr. Abel F. Fitch, a client of his who died of a broken heart, while Mr. Seward Avas struggling to save him from an unjust conviction for conspiracy. In the War of 1812, Detroit was the theatre of a humiliating surrender and capitulation, which were hardly retrieved — just as Bull Run was the scene of a humiliating rout, the evils effects of which only the mighty issues involved enabled the nation to sur- mount during a four-years' conflict. The city grows steadily in opulence and rerinement. Chicago, August lUh. — AVithout a prototype, a marvel not merely of American progress, but of all civilization. We asked an English lady in New York, who had passed two weeks here, which of our sea-coast towns she admired most. She ansAvered, " Chicago." Though an inland, border town, it seems nevertheless a city by the sea. Built in a lagoon like Venice, it has raised itself high and dry above the flood. As mercantile as Amsicdam or Liverpool, it has neither the hoarding avarice of the 0^:10 nor the unscrupulous cupidity of the other. Just now grasping, with an iron arm, the broad and fertile shores o.' the North Pacific, how splendid seems the destiny of Chicago ! We meet here the President of the United States. Ills charac- teristic modesty has until now been a theme of universal praise. c 2, * i o w o •1 :1 8 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. But mankind liiivc always expected demonstration of power, pomp, or 6j)eec'li from their rulers. "\Vill tiiey excuse the want of it even ia (lie great General of the Civil War i Omaha, Auyud \C)t7i. "It's over the river, and over the sea, And it's over the wutcr to Clmrlio." It is over the Mississippi Rivor, and it is over the Missouri River, and over a sea of prairie live hundred mi\\s, from Chicago to Omaha. Seventy years ago, the Mississippi River divided the United States from the dominion of France. Sixty years ago Lewis and Clark found only wild Nature and savage men beyond the Missouri. Fifteen years ago, the States of the Union were politi- cally as well as geographically classified as the Northern States and the Southern States. To-day, it is not a parallel of latitude, but an uncertain and shifting meridional line, that determines their classification. Of the towns which have sprung up on the plains, we notice Cedar Rapids — not for its superiority to others, but as a specimen of an inchoate Western city. During ten minutes' stay there, we saw the suburban cottages, with pointed roofs, of the Norwegian settlers, surrounded by dark-green meadows, covered with flocks of geese and eider-ducks. AVe heard airs from " Trovatore " on a Chickering piano, in a dwelling-house not yet painted or plastered. AVe saw a Mansard mansion of the speculator in city lots, its lawn graced with a bevy of croquet-players. There seem to be all sorts of churches for all sects of Christians — one surmounted with a Catholic cross, and one with dome and minaret borrowed from the Mohanmiedan mosque. There are restless express-agents, nimble telegraph-messengers, noisy baggage-men and porters. Even the "Washington City colored boy is seen there, sauntering lazily through the crowd, and repeating, "Black your boots and shine 'em up ? " watli the poetical variation, " A shine for a dime." Two voung ladv-cousins come into the cars, and soon let us into more secrets of matrimonial engagements and other interesting events which are occi have room to r( Council Bill the Eastern rail the historical ( United States a not Congress it history by trans There is a i Omaha tbr the t bridge, which is by bringing the By-the-way, 1 of railroads is I river navigation and exhaustins: li State, or even tli the throwing of j across a boatable While, howev content to cross t boat, a double-eni and is skilfully st dashing, muddy ^ passengers of sev toward the broad Do you see that two bottles of wh the door, " Last ( body, and everyl Boston, New Yor are going to estab the railroads in ^^ fornia; lithe, acti time dogmatic po! "the stran-er," m COUNCIL BLUFFS. 9 which arc occurring in the "society" of Cedar llapidB than wo have room to rehite. Council Bhiilri, ou the Missouri Iliver, the conncctin<if station of the Eastern raih'oads with tlie Union Pacific, is lifteen miles !)elow the historical Council IMutls, where tlie first treaty hetween the fruited States and the Indians of the phiins was celebrated. Will not Coni^ress its "canon fix 'gainst" this practice of confounding history by transposing geographical names 'i! There is a fierce competition here between Council BluiVs and Omaha for the transshipment of passengers and freight. The new bridge, which is being built over the Missouri, is likely to decide it by bringing the two flourishing towns into one. By-the-way, how rapidly the construction of this " mighty maze " of railroads is breaking up the ancient idea of the sacredncss of river navigation against interruption by bridges ! It cost a long and exhausting litigation to ascertain whether the Legislature of a State, or even the Congress of the United States, could authorize the throwing of a bridge across the Hudson or the Ohio, or even aci'oss a beatable inlet of Delaware Bay. AVhile, however, they arc building a bridge liere, wo must be content to cross the Missouri by a ferry. A huge and heavy steam- boat, a double-ender, starts from a point high above Council Blutl's, and is skilfully steered first downward, then upward, through the dashing, muddy waters, to a landing-place far below Omaha. The passengers of several converging Eastern trains rush promiscuously toward the broad deck with their baggage, movables, and " things." Do you see that little wooden shanty, on the receding bank, with two bottles of whiskey in the window^, and tlie monitory words over the door, " Last Chance ? " Everybody tells his business to every- body, and everybody asks everybody his opinions and prospects. Boston, j^ew York, and Chicago merchants, bankers, and printers, arc going to establish branches, agencies, and printing-presses, along tlie railroads in Wyoming, Utah, Idaho, Nevada, Oregon, and Cali- fornia; lithe, active, and bright, all-loquacious, and at the same time dogmatic politicians, who fasten themselves tenaciously upon "the stran_;^er," whether lawyer, priest, trader, or farmer, to gain { ) li 10 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. an opinion on the probable result of the presidential election, yet three years distant, of the prospect of an early resumption of specie payments, or of the duration, the immediate result, and the ulterior consequences of the war which broke out only a week ago in Europe. Did not our servant, AVilliam Freeman, who has just come to his political rights under the fifteenth amendment, feel his importance when called on to expound these high mysteries ? See that group of juvenile Italians, with violins and harps realizing a profuse con- tribution in reward for a rather doubtful performance of '' II Bacio." Hear this strong-minded woman narrate to a skeptical audience lier successful achievement in establishing woman's snlfrage in Wyoming and Utah. An express-agent tells Mr. Seward that he has just sent to Auburn the largest pair of elk-horns in the velvet that could be found in Xevada. That cluster standing near the wheel-house, have sold out their forms in Missouri, and are going to look for new ones in Willamette Yalley or Southern California. This group of Indians, gay with feathers and paint, are ])akota ciiiefs returning to their tribe, to relate the M'onders they saw when sitting around the "big kettle" which the "great flither" hung over the fire for them at AVashington. This sturdy fellow in blue is an Irish recruit of the United States Army, gohig to join his regiuient at Laramie, accompanied by a wife, six rosy-cheeked chil- dren, a spaniel, terrier, two brindle cats, and a speckled hen. It is altogether too much to expect that the entire family will escape the ])erils of Indian warfare. It is a notable feature of the motley crowd that it c( ntains not one mere laboring man or woman. Whence, then, and how is the labor to come which is to irrigate the deserts, build the roads, and open the mines ? We may safely leave the question to its practical solution. American i)rogress and civi- lization " know no such word as fail." We record our thanks to General Auger for the kind atten- tions shown us at the garrison, and for his orders ]irovi(ling for our safety and comfort through his wide department; and to th<; judges, members of the l)ar, and other citizens ft)r their public and private hospitalities. Cheyenne,, A\ day in a distance of five thousand country seems, n nor rock, nor del though quick and almost iinpercept fields, orchards, short and grayisl countless buftalo- cattle, driven here ports himself in shyly gazes upon sitting ^rect at tl from their tliousa the towering VAw Ilangc ; but the tl we know not how UP, and notliinu: ca CHEYENNE. 11 CheyGnne, Avgust 17 t/i. — Onward and upward, a night and a day in a distance of live hundred miles ; we have gained a height of five thousand feet on the slope of the Rocky Mountains. The country seems, nevertheless, a level plain. There is neither crag, nor rock, nor dell ; and even the flow of the heautiful Platte River, though quick and free, is without cascade or rapids. We have passed almost imperceptibly from a landscape of Indian corn and wheat fields, orchards, and vineyards, to an endless slope covered with short and grayish, but nutritious blue-grass, late the pasturage of countless buftalo-herds, now replaced by scattered droves of lank cattle, driven here from Texas and Mexico. The gopher freely dis- ports himself in our way ; the antelope, as if under a fascination, shyly gazes upon us with his soft blue eyes; and the prairie-dogs, sitting ^rcct at the doors of their tenements, solemnly review us from their thousand cities. We expected, on arriving here, to see the towering T)lack Hills, and perhaps the more distant Snowy Range ; but the thermometer has fallen to P>C>°, and the barometer we know not how low. Ileavv clouds rest on the earth all around us, and nothing can be seen bevond or over them. *■ « ft ! 1 ; 1 : 1 )\ I lA 12 UXITED STATES, CAXADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. The Territory of Wyoming, of wliieh Cheyenne is the enpital, has a po[)ulatioii outside of the town not exceeding two thousand Cheyenne grew rapidly during the construction of the Pacilic Ilail- I'oad, hut now, suffering a decline, it may number twenty -five hun- dred. It has, however, just been connected by railroad with Denver, and so with St. Louis. The territorial government, there- fore, seems a machine prepared for future rather than immediate use. The army secures the people against intrusion by Indians, and keeps the peace. Governor Campbell, with the Secretary of State and the Surveyor-General, received us at the station, and, apologizing for the straitness of their dwellings, delivered us over to General King and General Bradley, who have cordially conferred upon us the freedom of the mess. "Wliat is to be tlie political influence of these new mining and mountain States ? Their founders arc energetic, enterprising and persevering men. Mountaineers are always frugal and bi'ave, as well as intense lovers of freedom. Their loyalty will never fail, if the Union shall continue to deserve it. SHERMAN. 13 SJierman, August l^th. — Sliernian, ciglit tliousanJ feet above the sea! AVe have made a winding way between the crests of tlie Black Hills, and these are only a lower tier of the snow-elad moun- tains. The pass is treeless, shrubless, ilowerless ; the rocks on the mountain-sides massive, brown, monotonous. What were the llocky Mountains made for? Some of their uses are obvious. A water- shed, they irrigate the continent, while they stinndate human activity by obstructing movement and hiding mineral treasure. I^ow gently descending the western slope live hundred feet, we come upon the great grassy plain of Laranne, on which civilization is making rapid advancement. Five hundred feet lower, through beds of crumbling red sandstone, we land on a broad tloor of cannel- WAHBATCn BANGE. coal. Prudent Nature foresaw the Pacific Railroad and the mining- shaft. Onward forty miles, dov/nward how many feet we do not know, in the Wahsatch Valley, we come to a settlement which bears the ominous name of Separation. It is the parting between the tributaries of the Atlantic and the Pacific Ocean. r. m il t i :1 How odd a mountain scene " Bitter Creek Walisatcli Ran< stand on the ea !{W recognize and li; which, under th( great fresco in t its Way." Hen MOUNTAIN NOMENCLATURE. 16 How odd and yet how significant is the nomendature of the mountain scenery : " Eed Desert," " Table Rock," " Black Butte," "Bitter Creek!" Kow, slowly by winding grades, we climb the Wahsatch Range, only five hundred feet lower than Sherman ; we stand on the eastern rim of the central basin of the continent. AVe .«> ■ Ji't >>vnviiti devil's gate, wbbee caSon. recognize and liail the rugged yellow clifi:' and far-reaching plain, which, under the light of a gorgeous sunset, Lcutze has copied in his great fresco in the Capitol, "Westward the Course of Empire takes its Way." ITencc we hurry rapidly downward toward the reseiwoir f t! ti 16 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. of the basin, tlie br jad, blue Salt Lake. The face of the Walisatch Mountains wears no resemblance to Atlantic scenery. These dis- jointed masses of rocks, fractured and shivered, look as if they had resisted lightning, tempest, ice, and flood, for ages. Sublime devas- tation ! The Weber Iliver, here only a foaming torrent, has worked out for itself an arched passage darker and more majestic than Gothic art ever designed. The mountain-dwellers call it the Devil's Gate. There are miles where a declivity, otherwise mibroken, pre- sents at irregular intervals a high, conical basalt rock, standing like the tower of a castle whose domes and walls have been swept away, and buried in the earth. One of these bears the name of Pulpit FtTLPIT BOOK. Rock, and, though inaccessible, it is believed by the credulous that Brigham Young from its level summit rallied his hosts to repel the army of General Johnson. In the Weber Canon, at the foot of the Wahsatch Range, the torrent subsides into a quiet stream. On its bank is an old and solitary pine-tree, which bears a board on which is inscribed, " One thousand meditate ; and n names. Let no a valley, it is but a table-land from the bosom wild-horses. G^^ Salt Lake Ci Valley Railroad where many oth a special train, v at the station he Wearied anc neat and checrfii lishwoman, the to UP. The town, tl SALT LAKE CITY. 17 " One thousand miles from Omalia." Here all travellers rest and meditate ; and many, jjroud of the great achievement, record their names. Let no one suppose that, because Salt Lake Plain is called a valley, it is therefore level, smooth, or grassy. The plain is but a table-land, broken by mountain-spurs, and hilly ranges rise from the bosom of the lake itself, affording pasturage for herds of wild-horses. THOUBANB-MII-E TREB Salt Lake City, Avgnst 20th.— At Ogden, where the Salt Lake Valley Railroad intersects the continuous Pacific Eailroad, and where many other railroads are soon to meet it, we were taken by a special train, which Brioham Young had sent for us. On arrival at the station here, we were received by General De Trobriand. Wearied and worn with mountain-travel, a hostelry even less neat and cheerful than the Townsend House, managed by an Eng- lishwoman, the second of four wives, would have been acceptable to UP. The town, though so uniclue and isolated, is full of visitors from f 9 i < i 1 N 18 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIO OCEAN. all parts of tlio United States and Europe, animated by a common sentiment, curiosity concerning tlie Mormons— how they came to be here ; how they live and act ; with what v.-oes they threaten the nation and mankind, and by what means, moral, judicial, political, or mihtary, the anomalous sect shall be brought to an end. SALT LAKE VALLEI. "We attended divine service this morning in a small and plain Episcopalian chapel. In the afternoon, we were accompanied to the Tabernacle by Mr. Hooper, Territorial Delegate in Congress. The congregation, composed chiefly of women and children, " with here and there a traveller," must have numbered seven or eight thousand. On the platform wore seated the entire hierarchy, con- sisting of tlie president, the apostles, and the high council, the sev- enties, the high-priests, the elders, the priests, teachers, and deacons. Among these dignitaries we recognized merchants, railroad men, mechanics, and farmers, and it is quite manifest that the priesthood is a shrewd, sagacious body of secular persons. The communion is celebrated every Sunday, every worsliipper participating. The THE MORMONS, THEIR DOCTRINES, ETC. 19 ceremony, thougli attended with less solemnity, is conducted in the same manner as in the more popular Protestant denominations, with the d'ft'erenco that water is used in place of wine, a special prayer being ollered that the substitution may be approved. The lir-^t preacher argued that, according to divine promise, the kingdom of God came upon the earth immediately after the departure of the Saviour ; that this kingdom has a key ; that the Church early lost it, and that the Latter-Day Saints have found it ; that it is nothing less than the true principle of marriage, namely, that marriage is not merely a union for earthly life, but a spiritual bond extending through time and eternity : the Mormons having unlocked the gates with the newly-discovered key, are inviting and expecting all nations to enter and build up the kingdom of God. MOBMOM TADEBNAOLR. During the service thus ftir, Brigham Young sat a silent and meditative observer. He now rose, and a profound stillness came over the congregation. He dwelt briefly on the devotion, zeal, faith, constancy, conflicts, and suff'erings, of the founders of the f 1 M *- » f ) 'I < i ; 1 w n r. rj .» t1 20 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. Mormon Church. From its past triumphs, and its present security, he inferred tlie favor of the Divine Author of the Christian rehgion. Like the previous speaker, he seemed to avoid the subject of po- lygamy, wliilc he claimed for the new churcli a close conformity to the practices of the early Christians, and the enjoyment of new, special, and continuous revelations. No Christian teacher claims for the writings of Isaiah or Jeremiah, or of Matthew, Luke, or John, more divine illumination or infallibility than the speaker demanded for the attested manuscripts of Joseph Smith. After descanting, in a few glowing words, upon the certain acceptance of the new faith immediately, and throughout the whole world, ho warned the saints of the danger of liiUing from the faith, saying, Avith all the vehemence of prophetic denunciation, " Hell awaits the backslider ! " After a kind allusion to Mr. Seward's presence, the sermon ran to incoher- ent and pointless exhortation. The service ended, Brigham Young greeted Mr. Seward, and asked leave to visit him in the evening. The veneration which a Roman Catholic, Episcopalian or Method- ist congregation manifest toward a prelate of their order, at whose hand they have received a sacrament, is indifference itself compared with f 3 awe and reverence paid to the President of the Latter-Day Saints as he retired from the Tabernacle. Brigham Young, accompanied by four sons and three elders, passed the long evening in conversation, religious, political and secular, with Mr. Seward. At the close, with an air as free from embarrassment as the patriarch Jacob might have shown in a like case, he invited Mr. Seward to visit sohio of his houses the next day, and see his family, August 22cl — The President came with carriages, and drove us first to visit his wife Emeline, a matron of fifty, with her ten chil- dren, from the ages of twenty-five downward. Thence to the house of Amelia, who seems thirty-five years. She has been married two or three years, and has no children. She invited the ladies to try her new piano. We then drove to the dAvelling of the first wife. This house, the first which Brigham Young built in the city, shows him to be a skilful mechanic, with a considerable knowledge S, of architecture, Brigliam Youn regard their aged repaired to the " ings, in which th They have diffen or piazzas witli i used as a music-h£ ?5 of the "Bee-hive, comfortable, and or were received here dren, a large propo flaxen hair, strongly educated upon tlie ac we saw were healtk aflfectionate, without free from boldness 3 BRIGIIAM YOUXCrs FAMILY. 21 of architecture. Slie was surrounded by her sons, Tlirani Youn<]f, I3rigluiin Young, Jr., and their several wives, who all seemed to regard their aged mother witli proper filial afleetion. Thence wo repaired to the " Bee-hive," a complex building, or group of build- ings, in which the remaining families of Brigham Young reside. They have different suites of apartments, connected by corridors or piazzas with the garden, a common dining-room, and a saloon used as a music-hall and chapel. The furniture and appointments i«fe -" -■''^r:S:f''^— fl - BBIOHAM TOUNO'S BE3IDBNCB. p., a n ,-* f « « «» : i of the " Bee-hive," like those of the other houses, are frugal but comfortable, and order and cleanliness prevail in them all. Wo were received here by eight wives and their children. The chil- dren, a large proportion of whom are girls, with blue eyes and flaxen hair, strongly resemble their father and each other. x\ll are educated upon the academic standard of *^h.e "Western country. All we saw were healthful, intelligent, spvigi::tij happy and mutually affectionate, without regard to the difference >f mothers ; equally free from boldness and awkwardness. The mothers, women of 3 32 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. sad deportment, nro entirely devoted to their children. All the wives are uneducated, except Amelia, who was before marriage an accomplished school-teacher. If there is any jealousy among them, it escaped our penetration. The mind of the first wife is impaired either by age or by trouble. She spoke severely of Gentile cen se- riousness. We were served at every house with the choicest of native fruits and native wine. Except the coachman, we saw no servants. At the " Bee-hive," each mother sits with her children at table, and the several families are served in the order in which they are arranged. Family worship is conducted night and morning by the patriarch, and attended by the entire household. Brigham Young's manner toward his wives is respectful, and toward his children dignified and affectionate. In presenting them severally as they came in groups, with a kind smile for the particular mother, he spoke in this way : " This is our delicate little Lucy," " This is our musical daughter," " This is our son George, who has a mathe- matical genius," and so on. At the end of the visit here, Brigham Young said to Mr. Seward : " You have seen eleven of the sixteen wives with whom I live, and nearly all of my forty-nine surviving children." " But," said Mr. Seward, " you are represented as saying that you do not know how many wives you have." The President explained that, besides the wives who are married for time, the Mormons believe in sealing other w'ves only for eternity, and, in regard to such women, he may havf; made the remark attributed to him. ' Polygamy, not at first adopted by the Mormons, is an adventi- tious feature of their system. It was authorized by a revelation to Joseph Smith, which was posthumously published. The Church at first desired to suppress it, but it bore the requisite official attes- tation of the prophet, and therefore could not be rejected without shaking the foundation of the whole system. The apologies which they make for it are not altogether destitute of plausibility. It promised to stimulate population when the sect in a Territory, new and isolated, expected no accession by immigration, either foreign or domestic, except of European converts. More women than men came as such c comforts for sup neglect, want, a; compatible with schools, nor witl the people. Tin are the conditio] develop the evils matter of religion the just and nee been one of tlie e ages, in all counti constituting what great study of civ nations, the only i lygamy is antagon the family. "Whei any country, an irj the East the hareij results of not men and the demoraliz This is the conflict is not doubtful, an( Gentile populatioi. resources of the ce: be distant. The Mormons, neons and obnoxic like other religious enee. How long, voke. The field of of search is eterna henceforth comman In the aspect of A population ofnej] years, occupying a POLYGAMY. 23 camo as such converts. Polygamy provided shelter and material comforts for supernutncrary women who might otherwise full into neglect, want, and possible infamy. So far it has not proved in- compatible with the education and training of children in public schools, nor with the maintenance of order and tranquillity among the people. Time enough, however, has not elapsed, perhaps, nor are the conditions of the community sufficiently matured, fully to develop the evils of the institution. Marriage is not exclusively a matter of religious belief. It is a social institution. To ascertain the just and needful relation between the sexes in social life has been one of the experimental studies of mankind, from the earliest ages, in all countries. The marriage of one man with one woman, constituting what we call the family relation, is the result of that great study of civilization. It is universally accepted by Christian nations, the only nations which enjoy a matured civilization. Po- lygamy is antagonistic to, and incompatible with, the existence of the family. When the two institutions are bi jught into contact in any country, an irrepressible conflict ensues. In all the nations of the East the harem has hitherto prevailed in that conflict, with the results of not merely the degradation but the enslaving of woman, and the demoralization and corruption of the entire social body. This is the conflict which is just now beginning in Utah. The end is not doubtful, and, with the rapid increase of what is called the Gentile populatioi. , coming to develop the mineral and agricultural resources of the central regions of the continent, that end cannot be distant. The Mormons, as a religious sect, soon to cast oif the heteroge- neous and obnoxious institution of polygamy, may survive, and, like other religious and ecclesiastical associations, enjoy a long exist- ence. How long, may depend upon the persecution it may pro- voke. The field of purely religious inquiry is infinite, and the spirit of search is eternal. It demands, and will in all civilized states henceforth command, toleration. In the aspect of political economy, Utah is a wonderful success. A population of nearly one hundred thousand, doubling every ton years, occupying a soil naturally destitute of vegetation, has, by iiTi- 2 ' I \\ 24 rXITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. gatiuii and other processes, pi'oduced an abundant granary for sup- plying the wants of immigrants on their way to the new mountain States and Territories on every side. Whatever may be the future of Utah and the Mormon sect, Brigham Young M'ill have an historical character. He was originally an uneducated carpenter, in youth a townsman of Mr. Seward's at Auburn. The latter, while seeing no reason to question Young's sincerity in his eccentric religious faith and practices, deems it unjust to deny him extraordinary ability, energy, and perseverance, as a founder of an American State. His failure, however, in one of his designs, periiaps at the time the most cherished of all, will serve as a warning to future American colo- nizers. Leading his exiled and persecuted band from the banks of the Mississippi across the wilderness, he refused to stop until he had found an asylum outside of the territory and jurisdiction of the United States. Scarcely, hoM'ever, had he discovered this land of refuge in Mexico, before the Government acquired title, and ex- tended its authority over not only that region, but the whole coun- try to the Pacific Ocean. EltihOy August 2^d. — Brigham Young, attended by a group of wives and children, took leave of ]\Ir. Seward at the station in Salt Lake City ; and a conunittee, composed of Mormon elders, camo with us by special train to Ogden. There two palatial cars awaited us, which had been sent across the Sierra Nevada by Mr. Seward's friends at Sacramento. These are furnished with a dining-room, well-supplied pantry, kitchen, and sleeping-apartments. Salt Lake, though fed by saline springs, is the reservoir of many mountain-streams, the Weber River, Bear lliver. Blue Creek, and others. Its waters are shallow and unwholesome ; but we saw cattle feeding near it, and land-birds flying over it. Its beach is always thickly incrusted with salt, produced by solar evaporation. Large timber grows in the mountaln-caiions, and the soil, wherever irrigated, is i)rolific of cereals, grasses, and fruits. The peach, plum, and gra])o, arc unsurpassed, even in California. Our last Bunset view of the lake, taken a hundred miles west of Ogden, was one which we are not likely to forget. The great orb, suspended over tlie water< was clothed in broad and grace Here, at Elc] Shoshones, once Must these Ind white man ? It version to the us to that end, from =r^^^?^ )t f^iiled. The expei no more proinisinir ill numbers, has nr zation. Exalted to of Mexico may besa twecn tiio pnre Indi liave practically cea tlivided by castes, of DESTIXY OF THE IXDIAXS. 25 over the waters, kindled tliem to a dazzling blaze, while the sky was clothed in a drapery of purple and gold, which extended in broad and graceful festoons across the entire horizon. Here, at Eleho, we find a wretched and S(pialid remnant of the Shoshones, once the proprietors of the region we are surveying. Must these Indian races indeed perish before the march of the white man ? It would seem so ; they could only be saved by con- version to the usages and habits of civilization, but all past efforts to that end, from the Atlantic to the centre of the continent, have t1 •c '. '.1 * < V I THE r.EMNANT OF A TRinR. failed. The experiments of the same sort on the Pacific coast are no more promising. The Aztec race, though it has not increased in numbers, has not diminished under Spanish conquest and coloni- zation. Exalted to citizenship, suffrage, and education, the Indians of Mexico may bo saved ; but it is noticeable that intermarriages be- tween the pure Indians and the Creoles and European immigrants have practically ceased, and that Mexico exhibits therefore a nation divided bv castes, of which the native one is the most numerous, 1 26 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. while tlio foreign one is the most wealthy and intelligent. One cannot but hope that the Aztecs of Mexico may prove an exception to the elsewhere universal process of extermination. Jleno. — On leaving Elcho, we followed a mountain-pass which is barricaded with basalt columns, more picturesque than the ad- mired Palisades of the Hudson, and this pass brought us out on the bank of the Humboldt Eiver. We have followed its wild and ^^Sff^^^^^^^^^^^^^P^^^^-' MOUTn OP BIO COTTONWOOD OASON. winding way as it flows over an alkaline bed, destitute of vegeta- tion, two hundred and fifty miles, until it spreads its waters over a broad and sterile plain and sinks into the earth. From this ])lain wo began the eastern ascent of the Sierra Nevada. The jMusonous mineral dust, raised by the whirlwind, was excoriating as wo passed over this desert of the desert, seeing neither tree nor stream after leaving the lost river. SACRAMENTO. 2T Wg declined here a pressing invitation to diverge and visit "Virginia City, as we had declined at Salt Lake, Ogden, Cheyenne, and Omaha, to diverge to other points of mining and political in- terest. The frequency of these invitations is strongly suggestive of the rapidity vrith which branch railroads and common roads are entwining the giant limbs of the new members of the republic, "What is the secret of this sudden and prodigious increase of national energy in the prosecution of internal improvements ? It is one of the first fruits of the abolition of slavery. Conservatism of the constitutional compromises in the interest of slavery, of course in :>ractlce, became conservatism of slavery itself, and this principle, developed in 1800, and gaining strength during fifty years, has been effectually obstructive of material improvement and national progress. Sacramento, August '^^dh. — The desert is passed at Eeno. The mountain scenery becomes fresh and cheerful with plentiful ever- green forests, and, where they have been removed, rich meadows. Mr. Stanford, Mr. Crocker, and Mr. Mills, met us on the way, and accompanied us down the western slope of the Sierra Nevada, a long journey, though the distance is short. The highest en- gineering skill Liust have been employed in effecting this passage through mountains so nigged, steep and wild. This morning the engineer whiptled " Down brakes ! " to avoid collision with a train which seemed to be coming from the opposite direction, but which proved to be the end of our own train. We left massive brown mountains, deep-blue lakes, and canons clothed in evergreen, and entered a broad plain, lightly shaded with groups of laurel and live- oak. Newly-harvested wheat-fields, and fields yet covered with native oats, are boundless. Although the engineer had brought us here in advance of tlie appointed hour, Mr. Seward was neverthe- less greeted with a salvo, and it was not without difficulty that wo made our Avay through the friendly mass who were gathered to welcome him. A drive through city and suburbs, and over the race-course, a dinner at Mr. Stanford's, and an evening reception at Mr. Crocker's, t\ t tt I » < I 1 i ^ 5^ 28 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND TACIFIC OCEAN. closed the day, giving iis a pleasing acquaintance with tlic refined and spirited society of the capital of California. San FrancisGO, Septemher 1st. — Mr. Seward, desirous to avoid an appearance of seeking a renewal of the hospitalities extended to liiin here last year, on his tour to Alaska and Mexico, effected a quiet entrance into the town, and we have been the guests, since General Scofi( department, a conimandiniT t ously. These Mcek, closed la What eapr "W'^rested from 1 to cnlai-go the in large tracts, of the disposs ■= tS=?W«c»^^»'7 . -■*--■ .vi; — =* '■•i '-•- — ■- our arrival, of his old friend and travelling-companion, Mr. Hastings?, "\Ye have visited the Cliff House ; and made for all, but Mr. Seward, a first acquaintance with the Scal-Eocks, their am]>liibious inhabi- tants, and the Pacific Ocean. '\Ve could not describe, if we should attempt, the bewildering land excursion ot two days, and the magnificent entertainment at Belmont, which Mr. Ralston gave lis, or our beautiful steam-yacht excursion around the harbor and bay. schools been est the hold of Spa seized the cntin rapid colonizatio exceptions, ncitl priests to toacli, were founded cl CIVILIZATION OF CALIFORNIA. 29 General Scofield, late Secretary of "War, now at tlio head of tins department, and Admiral Winslow, the hero of the Ivearsargc, commanding the Pacific squadron here, have entertained us gener- ously. These arid other hospitalities, all crowded into one short week, closed last night with a ball at the house of Mr. Avery. What caprices have marked the civilization of California ! AVrested from the native Indians, one hundred and fifty years ago, to enlarge the dominion of Spain ; parcelled fifty years afterward, in large tracts, among bookish priests devoted to the conversion of the dispossessed proprietors — hardly had the cathedrals and I CLIFF IIOlrSE, SAN FUANrlSCO. schools been established, when revolution tore the territory from the hold of Spain, and the Eepublic of Mexico confiscated and seized the entire domain. Then came purchase, conquest, and rapid colonization, by the United States. The>^e have left, with few exceptions, neither ^Mexican proprietors to occupy, nor Spanish priests to teach, n(n* Indians to be taught. The Catholic churches were founded chiefly in 1T7G- 78. How little did their builders 11 I' 1 I ! } h -SO UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. |j> understand the mighty revolution that had just then broken out on the other side of the continent — a revolution that was destined to modify not only the civil but also the ecclesiastical systems of the earth ! San Francisco, though only twenty years old, already assumes the aspect, tone, and manners of an inter-continental emporium, a counterpart to the Atlantic metropohs. The absorbing topic here is, Chinese immigration. Mr. Seward has declined an invitation given him by the anti-Chinese party to explore the Chinese quarter, and see how unfit its hihabitants are to become citizens of the United States ; and also a like invitation from the Chinese settlers to make the same exploration, to see how harmless and profitable that colonization is. The Eepublican party have lately acquiesced in the policy of exclusion, which has been insisted upon so long and go strenuously by the Democratic party. Mr. Seward protests firmly pf^ainst this, and teaches tliat immigra- tion and expansion are the n .m and inseparable elements of civili- zation on the American Continent, and nowhere more needful or beneficent than on the Pacific coast. He says confidently, to both parties, that all attempts will fail to suppress or stifle either of those invigorating forces. COLOKN OATX. The Vessels of the of the Preaehe The Moods of cutiis.— The Be 8teamer Ch having receive( More kind frien we had been loi been thirty yea taxed his streng We passed t Gate, with scar our voyage on a Septemler U wheel steamers, passed only by 1 Island Sound. den, is the smr promenade sevei have sixty cabi] that number. Minister rctumi dozen English ci Japan and Chin pany of the prea CHAPTEK II. FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO JAPAN. The Vessels of the Pacific Mail Line. — Our Fellow-Passergers. — " The Great Company of the Preachers." — The Chinese Passengers. — The Great Event of the Voyage. — The Moods of the Sea. — A Still Greater Event. — The Loss of a Day. — The Gyas- cutus. — The Beginning of the End. — The Coast of Japan. — The Ocean-Fisheries. Steamer China, Pacific Ocean, Sejytemher 1, 1870. — Our party having received its promised accessions, we embarked at noon. More kind friends could not have come on board to take leave if we had been long residents of San Francisco. If Mr. Seward had been thirty years younger, such a parting would even then have taxed his strength. We passed the sometimes turbulent, but always majestic Golden Gate, with scarcely a disturbance of the ship's balance, and began our voyage on a calm sea and under a bright sky. Septemljer Uh. — The vessels of the Pacific Mail Line are side- wheel steamers, and in accommodations and appointments are sur- passed only by the palatial boats on the Hudson River and Long Island Sound. The China, four thousand three hundred tons bur- den, is the smallest of them all. "VVe enjoy an uninterrupted promenade seven hundred feet in circuit on the upper deck. We have sixty cabin-passengers, and might carry comfortably twice that number. Among them are General Ylangally, the Russian Minister returning from St. Petersburg to Peking, and half a dozen English civil officers coming from "home" to their posts in Japan and China. " Great," it must be confessed, " is the com- pany of the preachers :" Fifteen American missionaries with tlieii -:- H » 1 4 I' « ( « • I s J M UxXITED STATES, CANADA, AND TACIFIC OCEAN. wives and children ! — tlie elder families rctnrning, and the younger goini^ for the lirst time to fields of labor in Japan, China, Siam, and India ; United States naval officers, on their way to join the Asiatic scjuadron, four English and as many American youths just cmer"-ed from college on an Eastern- tour ; a United States Treas- ury agent, going to inspect the Oriental consulates ; and one Amer- ican office-seeker, at least, proceeding to lay his claims before the Emperor of China at Peking. The gentlemen amuse themselves with gymnastic games, the ladies with music and books. An ex- pert Japanese juggler entertains us in the cabin. In the steerage, are five hundred Chinese returning home. They pay less than half price, and are fed with the simple fare of their country. Knowing no use of beds, they sleep on the floor. In the middle of their cabin they have made, with canvas, a dark room for opium-smoking. AVhen on deck, they appear neatly clad, and amuse themselves with unintelligible and apparently interminable games of chance. The annual immigration of Chinese to the United States is twelve thou- sand. They arc invariably successful. Half the number go l)ack to China, either on visits or to remain. Our freights consist of Mexican silver dollars, manufactured goods, agricultural machines, carriages, furniture, flour, butter, fruits, drugs, and patent medicines. These go in exchange for teas, silks, rice, and Chinese emigrants. Sej)temler 6th. — The great event of the voyage occurred this morning. All were on deck, in a state of pleasant excitement. At seven o'clock, precisely the hoi r which the captain had fore- told, the ship America, eighteen days from Yokohama, appeared in a direct line before us, under full pressure, and with square sails set. Signals were promptly exchanged, and, to avoid colli- sion, each ship turned slightly from its course and stopped. The America has eighty cabin-passengers and four hundred Chintse. The cabin-passengers on either vessel cheered loudly, the Chinese looking on silent and thoughiful. A M'ell-manned gig, with an officer in the stern, came bounding over the waves, and deliv- ered to us Chinese and Japanese (Europerin) newspapers, with a bag of letters from her passengers. AVe, in return sent on board the latest A letters to ou hoisted to it gracefully bo^ passengers rep nounced that course, and in I the waving of I America.* If we gavel European Avar,! change gave uf pean powers d recent dreadful that Mr. Sewa says that Fran) war against CI nation will. * The telcgrapli of yokohama, Augij THE GREAT EVENT OF THE VOYAGE. 33 the latest American newspapers, and a mail well charged with letters to our friends at home. The America's boat was then hoisted to its davits, the walking-beams of the two giant ships MEETI'*'^ OF THE STEAMERS IN MID-OrEAN. graceftdly bowed to each other, the wheels gently revolved, the passengers repeated their cheers, and a gnn from either deck an- nounced that the meeting was over. Each vessel resumed its course, and in a few moments not even a spy- glass could discover the waving of handkerchiefs or other signal on the deck of the America.* If we gave to the eastern-bound travellers the first news of the European war, and of the death of Admiral Farragut, they in ex- change gave us intelligence of an expected war between the Euro- pean powers and the Chinese Government, in consequence of the recent dreadful massacre at Tien-Tsin. Every one is astonished that Mr. Seward persists in his purpose of visiting Peking. lie says that France, in her present disabled condition, cannot make war against China, and, without the lead of Franco, no Western nation will. * The telegraph f om Shanghai reports that the America was burned in the haibot of yoliohama, Augv.st 26, 1872. ri ■I (J hi 34 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. Septemler \UK. — Those who would know the sea, have need to study its varying moods and aspects. They must see it in the later hours of cloudless night, when it reflects the bright stars and con- stellations; they must see it in the morning twilight, when its broad surface seems contracted to a small, dark lake, and then un- der the illumination of the dawn it resumes its illimitable expanse. Doubtless it is terrible in its more serious moods by reason of its vastness, darkness, and powerful agitation, all elements of the sub- lime. Happily for us, we have not yet witnessed those moods. September IQth. — It was a mistake to pronounce our meeting with the America, on the 6th, the event of the voyage. A greater one has just occurred. Our last date is the 14th. This note is written on the 16th. The former entry certainly was made yesterday. The chronometer marked eight o'clock at night at Greenwich, at the very hour when our clock, which keeps the running time, marked eight o'clock in the morning. "\Ye are half-way around the world from Greenwich, and have lost just half a day. It is quite clear that, if we should continue onward making the same discrepancy of time, we should have lost a whole day on arriving at Greenwich. We might postpone the readjust- ment of our ship's time until we reached Greenwich, but the scientific world has wisely decided that this readjustment shall be m.^de in every case by compromise on the ISOtli meridian, and therefore, instead of striking out a half-day here, we strike out a whole one. If the absolute loss of one whole day out of our lives is a dis- tressing thing to think of, we may console ourselves with Ked Jacket's profound reflection. When a missionary had delivered be- fore the Seneca nation, in council, a homily in the usual style on the shortness of life, and the necessity of improving its fleeting hours, he called on them for an expression of their sentiments on that important subject ; Red Jacket, having duly consulted with the chiefs, head men, women, and warriors, responded in their be- half: "Red men have all the time there is going; they do not see that white men have any more." THE COAST OF JAPAN. 86 Septemher 20(h. — Four thousand miles from San Francisco. The sea lias come down from the long, surghig swell of a few days past, and is now smooth and glassy. We have entered the outer belt of the hot circular current which warms the coasts of Japan, Siberia, and Alaska. A brig under full sail is seen, though at a great distance, mov- ing eastward. Everybody tries the spy-glass to make her out. When all have failed, a passenger, noted for controversialism, pro- nounces that the brig is the Gyascutus, from Macao, bound for Valparaiso, freighted with coolies. "VVe all start at once, and ask, " How do you know ? " "I assert it to be the fact," he replies ; "let liim prove the contrary who can. If this is not sufficient proof, it is at least the same form of argument that our preacher used in his sermon last night." September 23d. — The beginning of the end ! Every inch of the deck, bulwarks, stanchions, rigging, and boats, has been scoured, tarred, or painted, and the whole ship is clean as a Shaker meeting- house. Our five hundred steerage-passengers are confined within a rope-enclosure on the forward -deck — they appearing in new and shining cotton clothes, with pates freshly shaven. A dozen women are seen for 1,he first time. All are engaged, especially the women, in dropping handfuls of rice and small pieces of colored paper into the sea, to propitiate the gods for a safe arrival. Flying-fish sur- round us ; one white-breasted guil has come to attend us into port ; and a whale, the only one we have seen on the voyage, is spoi;<^ing in the distance. Sejytemler 24:th. — The coast of Japan rises in a long, gray outline over the dark sea, but Fusi Yama veils his head, and refuses to take notice of our coming. "We have crossed the Pacific Ocean. How much it is to be re- gretted that we must make such long stretches, and yet see so little ! IIow profitable it would be to study the North-Pacific American coast, the shores of Pugct Sound, the Territories on the Columbia River, and Alaska, i.n a near future the great fishery, forest, and «•' IS' «: '■• 1 1 t ( •1 i » J 1 h 1 { ) t \ r 1 i 4 I 86 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN. mineral storeliouses of the world ! — the Aleutian chain of islands hereafter to bo the stepping-stones between the two continents. AVe have lost a sight, also, not only of the Sandwich Islands, but of Australia, a Hftli continent on which a kindred people arc dcvel- rUSI YAMA, COAST OF JAPAN. oping a state that may at some future day challenge comparison with our own republic. The Northern fisheries known in commerce are chiefly above the 34:th parallel. The United States and Russia own more than half of the coast on both sides of the Pacific, north of that parallel. Mr. Seward left, as a legacy in the State Department, an inchoate negotiation of a treaty for reciprocity in those fisheries. Its im- portance may be estimated by recalling the controversies and con- flicts between the United States and Great Britain, during the last hundred years, which have arisen out of the fisheries on the Atlan- tic coast. PART II. JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA, % K in ri * 1 •J »■■.., a 4 f -3 I « ■ i The Bay of Yokohar bers.—The Toku Monasteries. — Ka Yokohama, ^ moonless darknes name of his ship iiiu'hor before mi lights of our first around and aroui uncounted sjm])li f^lii]) scarcely mov I»i'cume the longes ••iiid more tediousl last ^VQ gave it uji fl'ip's gun, and tl !»!•( Might an e.\])laii, did not announce 1 lialf-past two. 'I'lie hay of Yo ■•s beautiful, as tlui K''iU'efully from the ^ 'tnia's sacred bro\ '''I't' hills and vallo ^I'l.v ; the harbor is CIIAPTEE I. YOKOHAMA AND ITS VICINITY. The Bay of Yokolmnia. — Natives and Foreigners. — Native Costumes. — Japanese Bar- bers. — The Tokaido. — Japanese Cemeteries, Gardens, and Temples. — Monks and Monasteries. — Kaniakura. — The Great Statue of Buddha. — The Daibatz. YoTiohama, Scptemher 2i)th. — Night clo-ed with more than moonless darkness. With a true seaman's solicitude for the good name of his ship, Captain Freeman still promised that we should anchor before midnight. AVho could think of sleeping when the lights of our first Asiatic port were so near? We walked the deck around and around, from stem to stern ; we tried whist, we drew uncounted symphonies from the piano — but no consolation. The ship scarcely moved, and the equinoctial 24th day of September became the longest of all the days in the year. Time lagged more and more tediously between the hours of eleven and twelve. At last we gave it up, and went to rest. AVe were wakened by the ship's gun, and the slow dropping of the anchor. The morning brought an e.vplanation. The ship's clock had be«m retarded, and (lid not announce the hour of twelve until the chronometer marked half-past two. The bay of Yokohama is as spacious, and its surroundings are fiS beautifid, as those of Hampton Roads. The landscape recedes fjracefully from the shore, and high above the beautiful scene Fusi Yama's sacred brow reliects the gh)wing smile of the morning sun. The hills and valleys wear all the freshness of spring. It is Sun- day ; the harbor is gay with the flags of many nations on men-of- 1 I » 1 » 1 40 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. war and mercliant-ships, and is made more animated by the quaint Japanese craft and their shouting, grotesque, native managers. Yokohama, Sejytemher 2C)th. — The United States minister, Mr. Dc Long, Captain McCrea, of the Asiatic squadron, Mr. Shepard the consul at Yeddo, Mr. Walsh, and other American citizens, came on board, and after kind expressions of welcome and congratulation conducted us to Mr. Walsh's residence. Captain McCrea received Mr. Seward and his friends with na- tional honors on board the United States steamship-of-war Monocacy. Accustomed at home to the intermingling of all classes, condi- tions, and races, in subjection to one system of laws and tribunals, with common standards of morals and manners, we are as yet un- prepared for the different constitution of society we find here : instead of one community, two, standing side by side, each inde- pendent of the other — the one native, the other foreign. The native population of Japan is forty millions, all of the Mongo- lian type ; * the so-called European population, five thousand, tempo- rarily residing here from various nations, including the United States. These foreigners are gathered upon tracts of land, one, three or six miles square, called concessions, adjacent to native cities in the chief ports of this maritime empire. These foreign settlements are cor- porations, regulated and protected by the several foreign nations, and are copied in all respects from Western models, while the unpavod native cities, built of firs and cedars, thatched with bamboo and cane, are as perfectly Japanese as if a European had never touched the coast. It may be conceived that it is difiicult for the transient traveller, who always sojourns among his countrymen, and speaks with the natives only through an interpreter, to study Japan or its people. The Japanese, however they may have been heretofore, are not now jealous or suspicious. They labor cheerfully on the wharves, serve faitlifully in foreign familres within the concessions, and manufac- ture, in their own districts, articles of furniture and fancy goods for foreign markets. They are polite, sagacious, and skilful traders. • Tlie Prime-Minister informs Mr. Sewmd that tlio census recently tiilteu gave thirty- five (35) milliuus, but that it was orrunuuud. lie et^timutes the population at titty iiiillionx. Ifllij'ilMllllilllllllllBllll, ||||,'',ii ,,i,:.|| llij ! I'll Iff ■ill !i k ' U'l ■^',11'] IJ, ,|!'.i Mi '4'/ ■ :P'i|ii'( '■ ' i» '■ I'^'l^l iiti L 'ihj wiW_^ e. rve ilC- iirtv- iions. a. r1 t ] r 1} «'.; 42 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. September %1th. — The representations of native costumes on the Japanese porcelain and lacquer-work, which are found on our tables and in our parlors at home, are not less accurate than spirited. The coarse, black hair is a chief object of pride and care. The JAPANEHE BAIIUEIW. barber with his scissors, combs, razors, and pomatum, is seen at all hours of the day in the most public places. The women brush the hair away from I a small smooth j pins. The hair enough at the si in a graceless an ing. The barbei care is taken to use, instead of a ] neck. The pom; which, growing i fringe for the brc perors, for sumpl in the fields. T their dwellings. Here, as in j quires that the mf guisliing badges, white teeth, and \\ modest costume, immediately shave ments are remove( JAPANESE HAIRDRESSING. 43 hair away from the temples a la Pompadour, and gather it up under a small smooth puiF at the back of the head with gilt and vermilion pins. The hair of the men is shorn entirely oft' the crown, leaving enough at the sides and back to be drawn upward and fastened in a graceless and meaningless knot. The efiect is simply shock- ing. The barber-work being performed only three times a week, care is taken to prevent disarrangement in the intervals. They use, instead of a pillow, a wooden block adjusted to the shape of the neck. The pomatum so lavishly applied is extracted from an herb, which, growing in the eaves of the houses, makes a pretty green fringe for the brown thatched roofs, xliey say that one of the em- perors, for sumptuary reasons, forbade the cultivation of this plant in the fields. Thus the people, while evading the law, beautify their dwellings. Here, as in Alaska and in ancient Mexico, civil economy re- 1,1,11 1, * X 'J JAPANESE GIRLS. quires that the married and unmarried women shall M-ear distin- guishing badges. The girl, with full !iair tastefully arranged, with wliite teeth, and with the free use of cosmetics, and a scrupulously modest costume, is attra.tive; when married, her eyebrows are immediately shaven oft', her teeth are stained jet-black, the orna- ments are removed from her hair, and she becomes repulsive. 44 JAPAN, CHINA, ANi- COCHIN CHINA. "Wherever a city of the living is, there is also a greater city of the dead. The Japanese bury on the hill-sides. Though cremation JAPAKGSK CEMETBST. is sometimes practised, the body is more generally interred in a sitting posture, cramped within a plain, white, scpiare box, borne to the grave on men's shoulders. All who attend, wear white mourn- ing-badges. "Women do not appear in the processions. Burial is without pomp and pageantry. A black or gray stone obelisk is raised over the gi'avc. All the cemeteries are crowded, but doubtless this is due to the economy of land required by so dense a population. They are, however, always shaded and green. Septemher 2 the bay of Yed the high-road w the town. A c: at our landing, is monotonous, huddled togethe to Yeddo in pre company, using way, the projeel under an appreh will base extorti suffer. Ascending a enjoyed our first forward we had across the plains road-making, but hill-tops are cov( mingled with th At their bases ai sides being high the woods in the The althea, t the passion-flowe: quire so much ca luxuriant here. gle ; every hill if of land covered b there are small j barley, bugar, bee other vegetables, is bestowed on o accidental waste c bent down by the rice, each particu' LAND WELL CULTIVATED. 45 September 'i%ih. — We made an excursion, by boat, to-day, on the bay of Yeddo, to Kanagawa, and its precincts. The Tokaido, the high-road which traverses the island of Niphon, passes through the town. A crowd of both sexes and all ages gathered and stared at our landing. The architecture of Japanese towns and villages is monotonous. The buildings, public and private, are small and huddled together. It was a pleasing surprise to find the railroad to Yeddo in process of construction. It is imdertalcen by a native company, using only Japanese capital, credit, and labor. By-the- way, the projectors are becoming timid in prosecuting the work, under an apprehension that, when it shall be completed, foreigners will base extortionate claims on any accidental injuries they may suffer. Ascending a high hill, just beyond the town of Kanagawa, we enjoyed our first interior view of Japanese rural scenery. Thence- forward we had a path only five or six feet wide, which winds across the plains and around the hill-sides, not on any principle of road-making, but simply for the convenient use of the soil. The hill-tops are covered with majestic cypresses and yew-trees, inter- mingled with the chestnut, holly, pine, persimmon, and camphor. At their bases are thick groves of the slender bamboo, which, be- sides being highly ornamental, is the most variously useful of all the woods in the East. The althea, the lily, the japonica, the arbor-vitae, the wisteria, the passion-flower, and many other shrubs and creepers, which re- quire so much care and labor in our gardens and greenhouses, are luxuriant here. There is no waste, either by rock, marsh, or jun- gle ; every hill is terraced, every acre irrigated, every square foot of land covered by some tree, cereal, or esculent. Instead of farms, there are small plots, and each is tilled with cotton, flax, wheat, barley, bugar, beets, peppers, sweet-potatoes, cabbages, turnips, and other vegetables, by a single family, with care equal to that which is bestowed on our flower-beds. No allowance is made for even accidental waste of the crop. The individual wheat-stalk which is bent down by the storm is restored and supported. Each head of rice, each particular boll of cotton, is kept in its place until care- X\ f' -^ \ V • i * f nJ A JAPANESE GARDEN. fully removed 1 time in gatheri: ripens, it is har' Despotism, thou empire obliges ( the midst of tlili of two hundred j monastery, surrc designed. We c flights of steps, ea tracted one abore generally used in The temple h unique and grace elaborately, thoug conducted us thn ness, requiring ui ligious observance, priests are vowed sure and habit th spotless white rain tery is divided int but all these were two inches thick, i; board." There is our collation in o; smoking in the ne> bringing his pipe to the floor by way inferred that some ( ties of the house, corridor on every «.iis, in the centre either side. Over on his right, the n lawgiver. No spac MONKS AND MONASTERIES. 47 fully removed by the husbandman's hand. There is no loss of time in gathering the crops into garners ; as tast as the product ripens, it is harvested and immediately prepared for the market. Despotism, though often cruel, is not always blind. A law of tl^e empire obliges every one who fells a tree to plant another. Iv; the midst of this rich and beautiful landscape, within an enclosure of two hundred acres, stands a Buddhist temple, with an adjoining monastery, surrounded by groves such as Downing might have designed. We came upon the base of the temple by successive flights of stepp, each reaching from a platform below to a more con- tracted one aboee. The edifices are constructed of wood, which is generally used in Japan, for greater security against earthquakes. The temple has an overhanging roof and portico, which are unique and graceful. The columns, architraves and cornices are elaborately, though grotesquely carved. The bonzes received and conducted us through the sacred edifices with ceremonious polite- ness, requiring us to leave our boots at the door, not as a re- ligious observance, but as a regulation of domestic economy. These priests are vowed to celibacy and temperance, and in their ton- sure and habit they resemble Carmelite friars, except that their spotless white raiment is not of wool, but of soft silk. The monas- tery is divided into numerous apartments by sliding paper doors, but all these were thrown open to us. A fine, clean bamboo mat, two inches thick, is spread on every floor, and serves for " bed and board." There is no other furniture. While we were enjoying our collation in one apartment, the bonzes were taking tea and smoking in the next one. Each bonze, before lifting his teacup or bringing his pipe to his lips, brought his head half a dozen times to the floor by way of compliment to his several companions. We inferred that some of the party were pilgrims, enjoying the hospitali- ties of the house. The temple is a square enclosure, with an open corridor on every side. Nearly the whole floor is covered with a dais, in the centre of which is a largo altar, with a smaller one on either side. Over each a carved image — the middle one. Buddha ; on his right, the mythological mikado, on the left an apostle or lawgiver. No space is allowed for worshippers. They prostrate 'A 48 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. themselves at the porch, and are content with throwing small coins into the treasury just within the door. A cemetery near the tem- ple is crowded with monuments of pilgrim princes and saints. Take away from this temple its pagan devices and emblems, and the whole place would seem to be pervaded with the very spirit of religious devotion. It combines seclusion, repose, and silence with solemnity. The good monks dismissed us with many blessings, after having obtained Mr. Seward's leave to visit him at Yokohama. On our return, we found the bay highly agitated. Discarding the life-boats of the Monocacy, we crossed in a native craft, rowed by a vigilant and active though excited and vehement crew. years old. Thi to the circumstf pedestrians, wit used horses, anc jn I Sejjtemher SOth. — A second excursion, this time overland to Kanagawa, southward on the Tokaido. A hundred years ago, no part of the United States, perhaps few countries in Europe, afforded a road equal to this in firmness and smoothness. At intervals, hot TEA-nOU8E ON TUB TOKAIDO. tea in tiny cups, with cakes and sugar-plums, was brought out to us by pretty girls, aitlstes in dance and song. The beverage might not be declined, though we were not allowed to pay for it. In many places we found circular benches arranged under trees five hundred The Japanese clustering houses, on either side, m district begins or e GROUP ON THE TOKAIDO. 41) years old. This frequent provision for rest and refreshment is due to tlie circumstance that travel in Japan is principally performed by pedestrians, with the occasional use of chairs. Daimios have always used horses, and recently foreigners have introduced vehicles. OBOUP ON TUB TOKAWO. The Japanese are a busy as well as a frugal people. Thickly- clustering houses, booths, and work- shops nearly close the road on either side, making it difficult to distinguish where a rural district begins or ends. Occasionally a vacant space opens a beau- ri-- r \ ii 60 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. tifiil vista. At the end of twenty miles we sent our carriages back to Yokohama, and proceeded in cliairs hy a narrow path over a loftv hill, and then came down on the ocean-beach. The feet of our coolie bearers sank deep in the sand, but we enjoyed the re- freshing spray which dashed in our faces. Then leaving the shore, i;nd following a rugged mountain-path, we came upon a high plain, where once stood the renowned ecclesiastical capital, Kamakura. Practically speaking, Japan has no ruins. An extensive and liand- TEUPLE AT KAHAKUBA. some temple, which still maintains its prestige, is the only monu- ment of the ancient city. A few miles beyond this temple, we left our cliairs, and, diverging from the road, we confronted a high wooden arch, fantastically painted with bright green, blue and yel- low colors. On either side of the arch is a carved bronze demon, fifteen feet high, protected by an iron railing. These figures, de- signed to be terrific, are simply hideous. They are plastered over with moistened paper pellets, which have been cast on them by pass- ing pilgrims. The adhesion of the pellet is taken as an assurance THE GREAT STATUE OF BUDDHA. 61 that the monster is appeased, and consents to the visit of a votary. Trusting tliat the missiles wliicli our bearers had thrown upon the demons had propitiated them in our favor, we boldly en- tered the gate. Ascending a solid flight of steps, we reached a paved court, three sides of which are graced with monumental shrines of stone and bronze. On a pedestal six feet high, in the centre of the square, is the gigantic statue of Buddha (famous as the Daibutz), sitting with crossed legs, on a lotus-flower. Though description by measurement is not poetical, we must use it to con- vey an idea of this colossal idol. It is flfty feet high, a hundred DAIBUTZ. feet in circumference at the base, and the head is nine feet long j the hands are brought together in front, with thumbs joined ; the head is covered with metallic snails, Avhich are supposed to protect the god from the sun. Some travellers find in the tace an expres- s3 f ■ \ ( ) 1 * 52 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. sion of sublime contemplation ; to us it seems dull and meaning- less. The statue being nuide of bronze plates, is hollow; the interior is shaped an'.! titted as a temple. We are iiiclined to be- lieve that the Japanese have lost their early reverence for the Daibutz ; we tind the walls covered with the autographs of pilgrhns and travellers. The bonzes invited us to register our own names, and they otter to sell the god to any purchaser for the price of old copper. 'TAPANK8B B0NZK8. VISIT TO Intcrrienr with the Ji Uistory.—The Mil —The Question of Delnoiiico of Ycd, On hoard the Seward's arrival at '"v'ted him to a l Jiipaiiesc ministry ^vere to be j)resen Seward ex'cnsed Ji J'ealth and his Iiab "•i-ote, at the same pi'ivate manner, am \y Jiis respects to '"^'. H-e set out on , ''«'ompanied by Mi ^'i'<ldo, at iive'o"cI( ^'"p's salute. ^Since our arn'va ''f'f, .111,1 everybody t';""tlu|ualce or temp ^'".vagc; but thesef Hr. Seward, prote.si nnt'lior (lroj)i)cd. CHAPTER II. VISIT TO Yj^DDO.— INTERVIEW WITH THE MIKADO. Interview with the Japanese Prime-Minister. — Tremendous Storm. — Some Points of Ilistory. — The Mikado and the Tycoon. — Japanese Foreif^n Uffiee. — Minister Sawa. — Tiie Question of Saghalien. — The Tombs of the Tycoons. — A Speck of War. — The Dehnonico of Yeddo. — Sketches of Yeddo. — Tlie Interview with the Mikado. On hoard the Ifonocacy, Bay of Yeddo, October \st. — On Mr. Seward's .arrival at Yokohama, the Japiineso Government at Yeddo invited liim to a banquet in tlie palace of the namao;oton. The Japanese ministry, with other official persons, In all six hundred, were to be present, and the prime-minister was to preside. Mr. Seward excused himself on the ground that the condition of his health and his habits oblige him to forego large assemblies, lie wrote, at the same time, that he intended visiting the ca])ital in a private manner, and that it would allbrd him pleasure if allowed to pay his respects to the Minister of Foreign Affairs. This morn- ing, wo set out on the excursion thus proposed, in the Monocacy, accompanied by Mr. De Long ; we arrived at the anchorage before Yoddo, at live o'clock, expecting to land immediately, under the ship's salute. Since our arrival at Yokohama the weather has been intensely hot, and everybody has been jircdicting some fearfid convulsion of eartlupiake or tempest. A wind with heavy rain gave us a rough voyage; but the sea has now calmed, though the rain continues. Mr. Seward, ])rotesting against delay, asked for boats when the anchor dro])])ed. The ladies shrank from ex])osure ; even the r1 t 1 • * 4 »' < ( ) » \ r% t i i { 54 JAPAX, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. United States minister became demoralized, and Mr. Seward was overruled ; so here we are, lying tive miles from Yeddo, under the g'uns of a long line of Japanese forts, built on shoals, midway be- tween our anchorage and the city. The naval officers are to give up their (puirters to us for the night, in expectation of a aim sea and cloudless sky to-morrow ; an expectation which Mr. Seward desires it to be distinctly understood he does not share. In the mean time they are entertaining us with nmsic and conversation. Yeddo, October 'Id. — Mr. Seward was right. We retired at eleven o'clock, to the very narrow " regulation In-rths," imprisoning ourselves with close mosquito-nets, in the smallest of state-rooms, looking through tlie open ports at a very silvery moon, bright stars, and a smooth sea, the sliip drawing nine feet on an anchorage of three fathoms. Between us and the forts, the harbor was covered with vessels, including a large number of Japanese steamers and other boats, as well as Chinese junks. Some of these lay quite near to us. There was no sleep. At four o'clock in the morning, a phos- phorescent wave, pouring through the open ports, deluged our state-rooms. At this juncture, the order came down the hatch- way, "Close the ports." The steward informed us that there was " something of a high sea." AV rapping ourselves in our now thoroughly-wetted garments, we rushed into the dark cabin, and there overheard low conversation on the deck, Avhich expressed apprehension of a fearful storm. , AVe were on deck at break of day. The sky wore a copper hue ; the air grew intensely hot; the barometer fell from 80° 50' to 28 ; a violent wind seemed to come from all (juarters, and, in the midst of a deluge of rain, blew the sea from underneath the ship, causing her continually to bound and rebound on the sandy bottom. It was the typhoon ! Nevertheless, we renuiincd on deck, lashed ii\>i in our seats, ]>referring the open tempest there to the close and nauseating cabin. The captain was self-collected ; he ordered the to])-nuists down, and every spar well secured. Three anchors, tlio ship's entire ground-tackle, were thrown out ; every vessel, and every other cd)ject on sea and land, now disappeared from our view. ^V^ith confused ^\y^t we niicrj.f "1 motion, to ], .I'lvenile officers 'Jiirk and di-ear> 'lad been wreck, t'lf tidal waves, ^^-ators, or in anj ^t twelve o'c file guns were bi' ^^^^l•ks and stanch ■'^I'-ii-s would cni.sl '"H'crtain whetJiei f" pieces in Jier '"^' air exee])t thr "^ whicli made so ;'''''"^''s an officer, '" •' '"^v voice, ' It claimed, "It is the J^- 'nif an hou, •'"'^ ^^'e sea, thou^ vessels which liad Ij "f' longer there. 1 ■*'"' presumption in '''"'^'« f'rew manne '•f'^vcd us around tli, <'" ^''0 way we pas '""'•"^N and hangin< ''•'^<'" vessels were s "'""•^ '>'^v- WJien M '""^•" '»niJdings on tl .'" ^''^' Kr was tho "'^' Monocacy had n ""■ •■'•"«"Iatc liad be. ^'^"*''",v part. '"^unset came on STORM IN THE HAY. 55 ue ; 8 ; idst With confused fears that some shij) might be driving against us, or that we might be dragging toward a lee-shore, we put our engines in motion, to keep the Monocaoy up to her ancliors. The more juvenile officers, of whom, of course there were many, enlivened the (lark and dreary hours by whispered accounts of all the ships which had been wrecked, or escaped wreck, in all the typhoons, and all the tidal waves, and all the eartlnpiakes that have raged in Asiatic waters, or in any other seas, within the memory of man. At twelve o'clock, we were driven from the deck by alarms that the guns were breaking loose from their fastenings, that the bul- warks and stanchions were giving way, and the bending masts and si)ars would crush us. We took refuge once more in the cabin, uncertain whether the ship was parting her ancliors, or breaking t(» pieces in her berth. All the hatchways being closed, exclud- ing air except through a convoluted funnel, a lethnrgy came over us, which made some heli)less, and nearly all hopeless. About two (('clock, an officer, anxiously and carefully consulting the glass, said in a low voice, ' It is rising," and, after a few seconds more, he ex- claimed, "It is the end ! " And so it was. In half an hour we were on deck again. The sky was bright, and the sea, though yet rolling, had lost its violence. But the vessels which had been moored in such dangerous proximity were no longer there. The lee-shore was so near that we wondered at our presumption in having aiu-hored there. At five o'clock, a full boat's crew manned a prize-gig, and with bright and merry oars rowed us around the forts to the wharf of the consulate at Yeddo. On the way we passed a crowded steamer, broken directly in the middle, and hanging across the rampart of the upper fort; while a (l('Zcn vessels were seen half out of water in the shallow and treach- erous bay. When we saw the broken walls, overturned trees and fallen buildings on the shore, we were convinced that our anchorage in the bay was the safer refuge, notwithstanding all its terrors. The ]\[onocacy had neither parted a ropo nor started a nail, while the consulate had been beaten and shattered on all sides and in I' very part. Sunset came on ; while there was no rainbow, all the prismatic ri 1'. - i '1 ^ 56 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COUIIIN CHINA. colors and hues were painted on the broken and rolling clouds, as brilliantly and as distinctly as they are ever seen in the " arch of promise " itself. With what grateful emotions did we reflect that the tempest which so often breaks and destroys the stanchest of ships in the Eastern seas, had been in this instance withhold, not only until we had crossed the great ocean, but even until we had found an anchor- age from which we had beheld the terrific phenomenon without disaster ! Monday, October 8c?. — The Monocacy having done her best to rouse the sleeperis of the capital by a salute to Mr. Seward, returned down the bay to Yokohama. Thanks to her brave officers and no- ble crew, with earnest wishes for their health and promotion. The damages of the considate have been repaired sufficiently for our comfortable accommodation. We are guests of the minister and the consul. At an early hour an officer came from the Minister of Foreign Aflfairs, to learn when Mr. Seward would make his promised visit. lie appointed ten o'clock, to-morrow. Before we go to the foreign office, it mny be well to recall some points of history, in order to n\ake our observations on Yeddo intelligible. The people of Japan, whether indigenous here or derived from Siberia, assumed political organization, according to their own records, about twenty-four hundred years ago, in the two islands of Niphon and Kiusiu. They were governed by an emperor, wlm, being descended from the igods, was divine and absolute on eartii, and when he died was worshipped. Not only was his person too sacred to be looked upon by a stranger, but even the sun must not shine on his head. It was sacrilegious to touch the dishes from M'hich he ate. At his death, his twelve wives and all their attend- ants committed han-kari. These attributes are still popularly cim- ceded to him. As vicegerent of Heaven, he wears the title of Tenno; as sovereign in temporal affairs, he is the Mikado or Emperor. Miilko, some thirty miles inland, was his ancient capital, anil ri| ,:^ mVK '^i[r 'J m m ':'ilil!': Illllljjjillpill Ins KIS no, rtii, too not troni ■ cun- or iUlil o R- a r 1 r 'I 58 JAPAN CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. Osaka its seaport. TJie Emperor by divine right owned the landa ill the empire, and in time graciously divided them into provinces; retaining live or more of these for liimself, he parcelled out the others among great lords or ]>rinces, called daimios. In the thir- teenth century, a rebellion arose in the empire, and the Mikado, remalnintr at Miako, committed the defence of the state to the richest and strongest one of these daimios, who wore the title of " Tycoon." This military commander, after a short time, absorbed the temporal sovereignty and reigned absolutely. Yeddo thus be- came a third capital of the empire. The Tycoon, nevertheless, paid homage to the Mikad(j, who re- tained his titular rank, and unquestioned spiritual authority and preeminence. Besides the proper revenues of his own five prov- inces, the Mikado enjoyed, for the support of his dignity, an annual allowance made by the Tycoon, out of the general revenues of the empire. As he cultivated religion and such science as tho ago allowed, Miako became the centre of intelligence and learning. It still retains this distinction. Osaka being an alternate residence of the Mikado, it partook of the sanctity of the capital. By degrees the Mikado, free from all responsibility for admin- istration, grew in the affcetions of the people, while the Tycoon, exercising his power despotically, and held responsible for all na- tional disasters and misfortunes, became an object of juiblic jealousy and hatred. It was at this juncture that the United States, through Commodore Perry, and the European powers afterward, made their treaties with the Tycoon, in ignorance of any pretensions on the part of the Mikado to temporal power. It was the Tycoon who sent two successive embassies to the United States, one in 1800 and the other in 18G8. In 1805, the ministers of the Western powers, residing at Yeddo, wrote alarming accounts of popular discontents with the Tycoon^s administration, and of frantic appeals made to the Mikado to resume the sovereign power, annul the treaties, and expel foreigners from the empire. For this object, a party was formed by powerful daimios and fanatical ecclesiastics. While matters were in this situation, a young daimio, son of the powerful Prince Satsuma, was improving an academic vacation in England, to in the Departm of the local par prise, he answei *' is the cause oi He replied : " T a general in the ernment, and cl intolerable." ' tion was connn dred years since The revolut abolished, and leaving his spii resumed the t] the treaties, an powers. Octojer 4:th.- at Mr. Seward's according to oi disciplined. After a dilig stables in the c worn Englloh c, escort. Taking in Japanese sc to the foreign and the consul gone forward t( found them fill learned that M numerous natio The foreign enclosed by a open ; Mr. Sew; c VISIT TO THE FOREIGN OFFICE. 59 in England, to visit the United States. He went to Mr. Seward, in the Department of State. lie inquired of the priut'O to which of the local pra-ties in Japan he behjnged. To Mr. Seward's sur- prise, he answered, "to the Mikado's." "What," said Mr. Seward, " is the cause of the civil war, and what question does it involve i " He replied : " The Tycoon, who has no title to the throne, but is only a general in the imperial service, some time ago usurped the gov- ernment, and claims to transmit it to his heirs. This usurpation is intolerable." " How long," said Mr. Seward, " since this usurpa- tion was connnitted ? " " Oh, it is very recent — it is only six hun- dred years since it occurred." The revolution was successful, the dynasty of the Tycoon was abolished, and the heaven-descended Mikado in the year ISOS, leaving his spiritual scat at Miako, repaired to Yeddo, and fully resumed the throne of his ancestors. He promptly confirmed the treaties, and of course was duly recognized by the Western powers. October Mh. — At nine this morning a cavalry-escort Avas ]>laced at Mr. Seward's command. It is attentive and orderly, although, according to our Wester) i ideas, not particularly well mounted or disciplined. After a diligent exploration of the two or three European livery- stables in the city, the consul succeeded in procuring three well- worn Englioh carriages, drawn by native ponies, like those of our escort. Taking no heed of the suggestion that women are forbidden in Japanese sceicty, and unknown at court, Mr. Seward proceeded to the foreign office with the ladies, the minister, Mr. llandall and the consul. (Mr. George F. Seward and Mrs. Seward have gone forward to Shanghai.) As we drove through the streets, wc found them filled with gayly-dressed and merry crowds, and thus learned that Mr. Seward's appointment had fallen on one of the numerous national holidays. The foreign office is in the centre of a paved court, which is' enclosed by a stone-wall twelve feet high. The gates were wide open ; Mr, Seward and his friends were received by hundreds of »-■•'•»« It '. '^ 60 JAPAN. CHINA. AND COCHIN CHINA. official persons, with protuinid demonstrations of homage. The inner building is of wood, one story high, surrounded by a broad corridor. The corridor itself is sei)arated from the court by sliding sash-doors, with oiled-paper and silk instead of glass. On the inner side the corridor opens into a succession of chand)ers constructed like those of the monastery we have before described ; the apart- ments small, the ceilings low and the partitions movable panels. The floors are covered with matting. \Ve were conducted throujijli the corridor to a room a little larger than ''e ovhevs, perhaps eighteen feet square. Some furni- ture had be( ;; tosnoorized here. There was a European centre- JAPANESE OKKICKR OK STATE. table covered with under the table, ai and a rich bronze StOols in the ord( ard beinix next tl great rustling of sil He bowed many ti Seward in the Auk as they were fornui embari'assment in i U'ell he might, fo: shall come" that t! race, who, within olticial circle in Jaj the ancient court ot have little sense an interior has this in admitted here." Sawa is live fe ^fongolian, with it and an expression tret very small an( elaborately oiled, a (»t his head rested a by its shape remin( cned under the ch cdhIs with tas-els (hvss was double— the upper garments were of gold and and stockings — the piece; at his side scabbard of ivory ii an impression that inconvenient and in a very low voic JAPANESE PRIME MINISTER. 61 table covered with an oruamentul elotli, a small Brussels rug spread under the table, and ui)on it a laecpiered box tilled with c-hevoots, and a rich bronze brazier containinij^ live charcoal. We cat on siools in the order indicated by the Ja|)anebe usher, IMr. Sew- ard bein<^ next the seat reserved for the host. Presentlv, with j^^reat rustling of silks, Sawa, the Minister of Foreign All'airs, ento cd. He bowed nuiny times verv hnv. lie then gave his hand to Mr. Seward in the American fashion, and afterward to the other visitors, as they were formally presented, manifesting, however, some slight einbari-assment in exchanging this lorm of courtesy with the ladies. Well he might, for " be it known imto all to whom these presents shall come" that they are the only women, of whatever nation or race, mIio, within the menuM-y of man, have been received in an official circle in Japan. The Japanese (xovernment is t ^iohind the ancient court of Ilarouu-al-liaschid, in the opinion that " tmen have little sense and no religion." The [)orch of a temj)le in the interior has this inscription: " Xcither horses, cattle, n"r women, admitted here." Saw,! is five feet ten, and stout. Tie has the itures of the ^loiigolian. with its complexion a little relieved, clear, mild eyes, and an expression at once intelligent and amiable; his hands and fcot very small and delicate, his hair gathered up from all sides, elaborately oiled, and brushed and fastened in a knot. On the to]) of his head rested a curiously-carved jet-black lacquered cap, which by its shape reminded us of a toy -boat. This ornament was fast- ened under the chin and behind the head, by heavy purple silken conls with tassels larcre enouffh for nuxlest "svindow-curtains. His tlrcss was double — an under-tunic and trousers of dark silk reps ; the upper garments, of the same cut, though more full and flowing, were of gold and white brocade. He wore sj)otless white shoes and stockings — the shoe and stocking of each foot being of one l)iece; at his side a single sword, highly wrought, with hilt and scabbard of ivory and gold. Some show of awkwardness gave us an impression that he found his magnificent toilet, on this occasion, inconvenient and uncomfortable. Looking at Mr. Seward, Sawa, in u very low voice, pronounced, in the Japanese language, what I ! *t t r. ■• . js •« r I ( ) i I t t G3 JAPAN, CIIIN'A. AND COCHIN CHINA. 8()undcd like not one speech, hut a succession of distinct sen- tences. The interpreter I.slitabashi, kneelin*): at his side, at the close of each sentence siirniiied his nnderstan(lin«? of it by the aspirate " Hi ! hi ! hi ! " Sawa having tinished, Ishtabashi gathered JAPANESE INTF.UPRETER, IN COrRT DRRAS. np the sense of these fragmentary speeches, and rendered the whole into English, as follows : " Mr. Seward, all the ministers of Japan proposed to receive you on your arrival at Yeddo, at such a time as you would appoint. But this is a holiday in our country. It is our custom that at this hour, on every holiday, all the ministers repair to the castle, and pay their homages to liis Majesty the Tenao. The other ministers have gone there for that purpose. I have obtained from his Majesty tl behalf of my ai Mr. Seward had unwittingl Sawa resuii by character. happy to see it, Mr. Seward Japan, and bec( The Ministe 60 long a journ some. You sIk All of us will b( a statesman." We arc not { long and intere deferential on b( fcssion of politici was asking Mr. I United States G the boundary-qii Saghalien. Mr, responsibility, tr the United Stat other side of the them concernin<i Iliissian waters. becoming serious States purcliasin^ Continent. " W suggestion that J The minister tated ; tlien, look answered: "AH lien belongs to Jj tory which we o^^ INTERESTING CONVERSATION. 68 his Majesty the indulgence to remain here, and receive yon in behalf of my associates/' Mr. Seward thanked the minister, and expressed regret that he had unwittingly chosen so unsuitable a day for his visit. Sawa resumed : " I have heard of you much, and I know you by character. I see your face now for the first time, and I am happy to see it." Mr. Seward answered, that it afforded him great pleasure to see Japan, and become acquainted with its government. The Minister : " I am happy that you have arrived safely after 60 long a journey. 1 see that you are very old and very hand- some. You show high resolution in making so groat a voyage. AH of us will be glad to avail ourselves of your large experience as a statesman." We are not a practical reporter, and therefore cannot detail the long and interesting conversation which followed. It was highly deferential on both sides. Some parts of it showed that the pro- fession of politics is the same in Japan as in other countries. Sawa was asking Mr. Seward's good offices to obtain a mediation by the United States Government, to effect an adjustment with Russia of the boundary-question which involves the title to the island of Saghalien. Mr. Seward, hardly willing to assume so grave a responsibility, tried to divert Sawa's attention from it, saying that the United States and Russia were once near neighbors on the other side of the Pacific Ocean, and that a dispute arose between them concerninjr the riffht of American seamen to take fish in Russian waters. The controversy, just at the moment when it was becoming serious, was happily brought to an end by the United States purchasing the entire Russian possessions on the American Continent. "What would you think," he added, playfully, "of a suggestion that Japan shall, in the same way, purchase Saghalien ? " Tlie minister hesitated, cast his eyes on the floor, and medi- tated; then, looking up with a smile of conscious satisfaction, he answered : " All our histories agree that the entire island of Sagha- lien belongs to Japan now. We could not buy from Russia terri- tory which we own ourselves I " r 1 f3 .J tl i \ \ " That is so arc like the pc out that you e; voii can buy it During the pagiio and cake floor whenever hour and a halt' est in Yeddo w plained the arn then, stipulatin< afternoon, the ]\ leave by bo\\ in* Yeddo is a s iiiliabitcd distri( ated to civil an< districts, it is d built in the sann if is impossible As Sa^ya hac cious grounds w ruled in Japan granite, others but in inipressi ill the AVest. tiiiniliar in "Wes The monument many lantern-b commemorative expressing the a tributai structi great taste. Ea trained Intv- a si By the side with hideous de forked winffs, fl ( THE TOMBS OF THE TYCOONS. d5 31 " That is so," replied Mr. Seward, " and, it' the pcc<plc of Japan ure like the people of the United States, you will very soon find out that you can no more sell your own territory to others than you can buy it from them." Durin<5 the conversation, tea and cigars, and afterward cham- pagne and cakes, were served by attendants who crouched on the floor whenever they received or executed a 'jonnnand. After an hour and a half passed, Sawa mentioned the places of special inter- est in Yeddo which he thought Mr. Seward ought to see, and ex- ]>lained the arrangements which had been made for that purpose ; then, stipidating a private interview with Mr. De Long for the afternoon, the Minister of Foreign Aflairs rose and took a graceful leave by bowing and shaking hands cordially with the whole party. Yeddo is a singular combination of compactly-built and densely- inhabited districts, with intervenhig gardens and groves, appropri- ated to civil and religious uses. When in one of those po})ulou8 districts, it is difficult to conceive that the whole vast city is not built in the same way ; and when in one of the deeply- shaded parks, it is impossible to realize that you are in the heart of a great city. As Sawa had suggested, we proceeded first to Sheba, the spa- cious jrrounds which contain the colossal tombs of the Tycoons who nded in Japan so many centuries. Some of the tombs are of griinite, others of bronze. They surpass^ not only in costliness, but in impressive ctfect, any imperial or royal modern cemetery ill the "West. The sarcophagus, the obelisk, and the shaft, forms familiar in AVestern monumental architecture, e(pially prevail here. The monuments bear no epitaphs, but each is surrounded with many lantern-bearing votive shrines, covered with inscriptions commemorative of the virtues and achievements of the dead, and expressing the affection and gratitude of the princes by whom the tributai structures were erected. The domain is planted with great taste. Each particular tree and shrub has been formed and trained int^/ a shape suggestive of religious sentiment. By the side of the cemetery stands the Temple of Sheba. "What with hideous devices of the great red dragon of Japan, with his forked wings, flaming mane, and powerful claws, the monstrous « 1 * 1 ( ) ' a H i>C JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCIIIN CHINA. TIMBS OF TIIK TYruONS. transfunuiitioiiK of Buddha into lions rampaiit and rojirinjx, pea- cocks ])roiid and stnittinf;, and sai^acious storks hta!kin<; and p.ofkhosyini;, the interior of the temple is a weird eond)ination of the mythie and the terrific. Th()U<rh we have experienced neither menace nor insult, our punrd is nevertheless indispensable to protect us apjainst intrusive cin-iositv. The crowds jrather around, and follow us wherever we aliirht and wherever wo ^o. Perhaps the escort mi^ht be needed in case of sudden excitement or tumult, such as is liable t() hapi)en in every ^reat city. That was n(»t only a seasonable but a i)retty and pleasant break- fast which Sir Harry and Lady I'arkes ^^ave us at the Uritish lega- tion. Ft did not need the after illferiimemcut of native le<;erdemain. 'I'he zeal and ctHciency of Sir Ilarry Parkes, as minister, are well known. Lady Parkes is not less distinguished fur the sj>irite(1 man- ner in which she sustains him in his diplomatic studies and laborn. AVe left the British leiration in com|)act ])roceasion, as we had entered it, Mr. Seward and Mr. l)e Lon<j^ leadini; in a pony-carria^jr, J ui (/) u. in* i •" « cl r •» I M 51 m JAPAX, CniXA, AXn COCIIIX CHINA. Mr. De Long drivins;. Three other carriages followed, attended by the consul, and the whole surrounded Ly the escort. For a time the carriasres in the rear had the forward one in full view, while itsoccu- pants, frequently looking back, exchanged greetings. Mr. Seward and Mr. De Long at length reached the high st^ne bridge, built «ltlTI»ll I.UliATlU.y, YF.DUU. across one of the canals, and famous in Japanese history as the Xippon-Bas. There they became awari' that the other carriages had fallen out ot sight. The street which intervened was filled with holiday crowds, drawing huge, painted idols, mounted on low trucks. These ( missing carriage! I'iage gesticulated ^V^estern gentlem i^^ a tight ; tlie h '^pi-ang from the liis long whip in determined to effc little pony-carriag creasing native cr( and left, found th rods distant from Hoor of a silk-mere consul, sipping tej elieapeningof Jaj)a tlic minister pockc most pacific manne lound safe on the b; uncertain what was i>t tin's discovery, wi proh'(jces in safety, yielded to groimdk main body of the ji tlie occasion of tlic trouble. Ocfoler r)th.~A tlio Ilamagoten and feasted. The palace luxuriously furnisiiec pi-opriately called tlu rated exclusively wit tions, and so well exc ail' stirred by their m ot'C^entraiParkin X, Tiicro are quaint b;u A GROUNDLESS ALARM. 69 trucks. These crowds were rapidly moving in the direction of the missing carriages. Tlie guards who surrounded the forward car- riage gesticulated, in a numner betokening alarm. Mr. Dc Long, a Western gentleman, becoming excited, said to Mr. Seward, " There is a tight; the ladies are attacked!" AVith this exclamation, he sprang from the carriage and rushed back at the top of his speed, his long whip in his left hand and a Colt's revolver in his right, determined to effect a rescue. Mr. Seward remained sitting in the little pony-carriage on the Nippon-Bas, attracting a constantly in- creasing native crowd. Mr. De Long, scattering the natives right and left, found the carriages in the clear, open street, a hundred rods distant from the bridge and vacant, while, upon the matted floor of a silk-merchant's " go-down," he found the ladies with the consul, sipping tea, a ceremony always introductory here to the cheapening of Jai)anese crapes and gauzes. Without saying a word, the minister pocketed his revolver, and, lowering his whip in the most pacific manner, walked quickly back to Mr. Seward, whom he tbund safe on the bridge. Even at this hour of writing, it remains uiucrtain what was the sentiment which overpowered Mr. De Long at this discovery, whether it was one of satisfaction at finding his pi'oii'<jves in safety, or of mortification at having so impulsively yielded to groundless alarm. Neither the advance-guard, nor the main body of the procession, has been able to discover what was the occasion of the Japanese excitement which produced so much trouble. 51 » 9- R « Oofoher Hh. — A busy day, but less eventful. We have visited the llamagoton and its palace, where Mr. Seward was to have been feasted. The palace, built and ornamented in Japanese style, is luxuriously furnished in the European. One of tiie saloons is ap- pro])riately called the Cool -room, its walls and ceilings being deco- rated exclusively with huge ]>icturcd fans, in many different posi- tidus, and so well executed that you might fancy that you feel the air stirrcil by their motion. The grounds are as extensive as those of (Central Park in New York, and not less elaborately embellished. There are quaint bamboo summer-houses, with j)retty scroll roofs, 11. covered with houses, standi Tliere are gro^ Stately siiade casties, and si the sniootli ba From the wonderingly e have seen. Si far from beiiiir temple, a bowh has been made, cved with a sto' and falls with look with reve; the other browi; c-aparJHoned, ofc in perpetual rea* beasts are maiiit; tics in Jaj)an, as expedients for r Osalcasa arc ren entertainments, A dinner was of Yeddo. Lea\ and our boots at Ii!i,dily-polis]ied ilo'/AHi chambers tlie clean matter ptM-son. It was ( ^'iiall covers. T. •'•"d piping hot. ^«'y and distaste small, shallow, rw tea-saueers. Onr eleven pretty gh THE JAPANESE DELMONICO'S. n covered with hundreds of '-reepors, Icucwn to us only in onr ^'"^on- houses, standing in *ho niidtit oi' lakes well stocked with gold-fish. There are groves of mulberries, chestnuts, persimmons, and oranges. Stately shade-trees, cut and twisted into the shapes of animals, castles, and ships, crown hundreds of high knolls which overlook the smooth bay of Yeddo. From the Ilamagoten, we drove to old Osakasa, where we wonderingly examined a temple which surpasses all the others wo have seen. Superstition, though abating in Japan, is nevertheless far from being extinct. They show at Sheba, in the court of the temple, a bowlder, in tho top of which a deep, smooth, circular basin has been made, which is tilled with water, and kept carefully cov- ered with a stone lid. It is an accepted belief that this water rises and falls with the ocean-tide. At Osakasa we were required to look with reverence upon two native ponies (one cream-colored, the other brown), both nicely trimmed and groomed, and superbly caparirfoned, occupying apartments neat as a parlor. They remain In perpetual readiness for t!ie eipiestrian exercises of the gods. The beasts are maintained by pious contributions of pilgrims. Ecclesias- tics in Ja{)an, as sometimes they do elsewhere, resort to <piostionable expedients for raising money. The highly-ornamented grounds of Osakasa are rented for tea-houses, theatrical exhibitions, jugglers' entertainments, and other popular amusements. A dinner was ordered for us at a tea-house— tho " Delmonieo's" of Yeddo. Leaving our carriages with the escort in the stn eta, and our boots at tho door, we were ushered ui» a very steep, hut highly-polished wooden staircase into a chamber, . rather a doziMi chambers divided by sliding-doors. Here we sat down on tho clean matted floor. A lacquered table was set before eacli person. It was eight or ten inches high, and largo enough for two suiall covers. Tea in little cups without saucers wis served, clear, and piping hot. After the tea, saki, a liquor distilled from rice, fiery and distasteful, was jioured from a porcelain vase into such small, shallow, red, lacquered vessels as we sometimes mistake for tea-saucers. Our hostess, a middle-ftgcd matron, was assisted by eleven pretty girls, their ages arying from twelv* to sixteen. 11 72 JAPAN, cniNA, AND COCHIN CHINA. These attendants, by the elegance of their costume and abundance of white cosmetics, had enhanced their beauty to the degree that, in Oriental speech, it would be said that '- every one of them was a temptation to the servants of God." One of them went down on her knees beside each guest, and remained there until it was time to bring on, with the tiniest of delicate hands, a new course. Their actions were graceful and modest, thci- voices bird-like. They manifested childish delight at every compliment we gave them, and their pleasure seemed to rise to ecstasy when permitted to examine our watches, tans, parasols and other articles of dress or ornament. The dinne There was a ' slices with hors rice, and man These courses i tionery. /Said ceremony. Al not analyze. E) the entertainmc instrument, in i played and san^ airs were not \ and monotonoi could find no m ticulation were rules of the ba long and heavy and most of the we left this " h us from the bai Their grateful their soft ami jji We needed streets, now din our dragoons w furiously tbrwar myriads of bats returning from amusements, inl JAPANESE MUBICIAV. A SELF-DENYING OIIDIXAXCE. 73 The dinner, however, was riither a selt-tlcnying ordinance. Tliere was a vegetable soup flavored with soy^ raw iish in thin shces with horse-radish, petty bits of game, various preparations ot rice, and many dishes whose composition was unascertainable. These courses were intermingled with sweetened fruits and confec- tionery. Sahi was ottered with every course, and always witii great ceremony. All the dishes had one connnon flavor, which we could not analyze. Even the sugar had this raw, indescribable taste. After the entertainment, the girls, sitting on the floor, each with a rude instrument, in form a compromise between the banjo and the guitar, played and sang, and at intervals rose and danced. Though the airs were not without melody and harmony, they were so crude and monotonous that the highest expert in the " heavenly art '' could find no musical meaning in them. The posturing and ges- ticulation were artistic, though the dancing was conducted on no rules of the ballet. Great skill was displayed in the dance, the long and heavy dresses of the performers always covering the feet, and most of the time even the hands. Night overtook us before we left this "haunt of delight," and the performers accompanied us from the baiupieting-floor to our carriages in the dark street. Their grateful gestures and speaking smiles were intelligible, though their soft and gentle words were not. We needed to drive with much care through the crowded streets, now dimly lighted with an occasional paper lantern. But our dragoons were men "dressed in brief authority;" they dashed furiously tbrvvard, and, with shrieking shouts and screams, startling myriads of bats from the thatched roofs, they drove the people, returning from their daily occupations, or listening to theatrical amusements, into the open doors or alleys. CprS Octoher G^A. — The day began at Yeddo with an aiiJience given by Mr. Seward, at the consulate. The visitors were Japanese who have ac(piired some knowledge of foreign nations, Mr. Seward inquired for the Tycoon's ambassadors, Ono Tomogoro and "Mats-i moto Judaiyii, with whom he had negotiated in Washington. But there has been a revolution. The Mikado, then onlr a nominal 74 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. sovereign, is now absolute at tlic castle. The Tycoon is a prisoner of state ; Ono Touiogoro is also a prisoner, nijbody knows where, and Matsnioto Judaiyu is a fugitive — some say at {Shanghai, others at San Francisco. It seems to suri)ass Japanese comprehension that a new administration of the (.Jovernment of the United States has come in, and that Mr. Seward has gone out of place without hjsing his head or public consideration. AVhile Mr. Seward was holding his audience, the ladies shopjied. The Japanese artisans contrive to produce exquisite articles of taste and vertu from cheap nuiterials, and with an inlinile.simal proportion of the precious metals. Their modern ])orcclaln is inferior to the Chinese, but they excel in ornamental lacquer-work and fans of all sorts. Their designs in bronze are exceedingly curious, but their execution interior to that of Europeans. In jiainting they are unsurpassed in the imitation of all forms of animal life. With a keen sense of the ludicrous, they may yet come to be employed as caricaturists in our j)residential elections ! There is no special manufacture at Yeddo. It is an emporium for the whole em])ire. We have found it impossible to ascertain the districts in which particular classes of articles are made. The shops are small and closely packed with wares. The indilference assumed by the merchants would be provoking, if it were not for t^ioir extreme ])oliteness. It the buyer means to obtain a fair bar- gain, he must aft'ect equal reserve and indifference. The entire family look on, half a dozen men and three or four women busying themselves in every sale. Indeed, the house and the shop are one. Four feet square of matting in the centre of the shop is the common dining-room and bedroom. Must they not eat and sleep by turns r The Ignited States minister was recalled to Yokohama last night. Captain Bachelor put the reins of two fine American horses into our hands, to drive in a light New-England pliaeton down the Tokaido to Yokohama. i\[i-. KandMll conveyed the other ladies in a carriage drawn by Mr. Dc Long's mottled native ponies. Each car- riage was attended by two hettos, quick-footed boys, whose service is to run like coach-dogs by the side of horse or carriage, warning everybody out of the way, and they are ready to seize and hold ^>t % m rl?- :^ u u ffi •J r « • <4 t 1 76 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. the horsea at every st(>pi)in«,'-i)hice, or in any ease of alarm. The road was literally erowded, and hilarity and merriment displayed themselves on all sides. The erowds were labyrinthian. The aetivity and sungs of the hettos, and the ejaeulatiuns and impreca- tions of our mounted guard, with the clangor of their arms, made our rapid drive a very exciting one, while a bracing air with genial sunshine was exhilarating. But all pleasures have their draw- backs. Neither the hettos nor the dragoons were capable of under- stauding our retjuests or renuuistrances. They wanted rest at every tea-house, or, what was the same thing, they sought favor at the tea-houses by bringing us up at the doors. The guard dis- mounted, and, with the hettoSy took the refreshments })rofusely of- fered them, while we, though declining any, were obliged to wait. "When we had made twelve miles, half the distance to Yokohama, we brouglit up at a hostelry, with a stable. Our horses were taken out to be fed and groouiod. From open windows in an upper chamber we saw in the court a huge brass caldron sunk in the ground over an oven. The horses were brouglit to it. Four grooms took possession of each horse, and rubbed him thoroughly from head to hoof with wisps of straw dripping with hot water, and afterward dried him with as much care as the human [)atient re- ceives when he comes out of a Turkish bath. We improved the time by a Japanese dinner, which, when we were completely sur- feited, we left unfinished, very much to the disaj^pointment of the music-girls. Once more on the road, we indulged a faint hope of reaching Yokohama before midnight. AV^e came, after three or four miles, to the bank of a river twenty rods wide. There was one rough flat-boat on the other side, worked by an endless chain. We awaited its tedious arrival aiul delivery of passengers multitudinous and various. Then our beasts were led separately into the boat and crossed. It returned to our shore, and, as in the riddle of the fox, goose and ])eck of corn, took the dragoons and the carriages. ** Last came joy's ecstatic trial." AVe hurried on board, and, reach- ing the opposite bank, found the vehicles there, but not the horses. We were obliged to walk forward a (piarter of a mile, to a pLace where the hettos and cavalry were taking tea and smoking, as if they ARHIVAL AT YOKOHAMA. 77 had fasted the wliolo day. Then they went back and brought uj) the iin})edinienta. A l)riin:int, full-orbed luoou expanded into majestic size every object tliat we passed, and lit up the waters of tiie bay as we a|'})roached Kan i;:fawa. Mr. De Louie's native ponies, ai'ter fretpiently giving out on the way, fell in climbing the sharp, high hill, and it taxed our own horsemanship to get over this dif- ficult part oi' the road. The other carriage was drawn over the hill by tl bettoa and drag(jons, and the i)onies were then re- attached. Meantime hettos and dragoons lighted each his varie- gated paper lantern. They made the suburban streets of Yoko- hama resound with vociferous shouts, thus exciting the astonish- ment and perhaps the fears of this inoffensive people. We arrived at Mr. Walsh's hospitable gate, much to the satisfaction of our friends within, who, owing to the lateness of the hour, had become apprehensive for our safety. / " Steamship New Yorh^ of the Coad of Japan ^ October Wi. — We have embarked, without liaving had time on shore to record the latest and most striking incidents of our visit at Yokohama. Mr. Seward was not allowed to leave Japan without a marlced dem- onstration from the government, as well as an exi)ressi()n of rcj^i^jct from the foreign residents. On our return from Yeddo, on tlie Gth, he received an invitation to an audience of the Mikado. This ceremony is usually distinguished by jn'ocrastinations and formalities even more tedious than in European courts. The time being shortened, however, in this case, the invitation was accepted. Yesterday morning, we were awakened from slee]i, which was quite too short after our drive on the previous day, by an infinite clatter of mechanics, u])holsterers, and decorators, who were engaged in constructing with canvas, all around Mr. Walsh's very large house, a broad suite of saloons, dancing-halls, waiting-rooms and pupper-rooms. The whole was completed during the day, decorated with flags and tropical shrubbery, and flowers, and softly lighted by fanciful lanterns. The band of the German naval squadron played " Hail Columbia," and the ball was opened at ten o'clock. All the diplomatic and consular corps were present, us well as the naval 1 •c, » 1 t ■a f I * I] ,'iu ^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) h // z/^.^^!-^ y. ^ w & % 1.0 I.I 1^1^ 12.5 ^ KS 12.2 !IIIL25 II 1.4 2.0 1^ 1.6 V] v ^>. Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y 14580 (7)6) s/i^soa ■1>^ \ ^ \ \ :\ officers of the Un dents. Of course, we have before inti popuLations. Cast^ sal civilization. T generous hospitalit journ with Mr. an( At two o'clock yet going on, Captf Mr. Walsh's compc yacht and received stranee, persisted in of a driving wind ai Mr. Sliepherd, and iiig tliree or four 1 Yeddo. At eiglit c Japanese costume, words: "I am waitii tlic great castle, Avhe: not in the customar^j an expression of pen commanded to mak posed audience." At nine o'clock an enlarged mountc design or not, throi closures, which are daimios who, under reside during alternj cnpital. The discon tlie Mikado, is a sin a more popular sysl kings of Europe who The barracks vacatec imi)erial battalions, been a ferocious cre^\ INTERVIEW WITH THE MIKADO. ro officers of the United States and other nations, and foreign resi- dents. Of course, not one Japanese of either sex was there, for, as we have before intimated, there is no social intermingling of the two populations. Caste and race are unrelenting antagonists to univer- sal civilization. This beautiful ball crowned most gracefully the generous hospitalities of which we were recipients during our so- journ with Mr. and Mrs. Walsh. At two o'clock yesterday morning, while the merry dance was yet going on. Captain Bachelor brought to the wharf, in front of Mr. AValsh's compound, then so highly illuminated, a little steam- yacht and received Mr. Seward on board, whO;, against all remon- strance, persisted in keeping his engagement, although in the midst of a driving wind and rain. lie was accompanied by Mr. De Long^ Mr. Sliepherd, and Mr. Walsh, and at six o'clock, after ground- ing three or four times on the way, they were safely landed at Yeddo. At eight o'clock, Mr. Ishtabashi appeared in rich ofiicial Japanese costume, and, profoundly bowing, said, with measured words: "I am waiting for the honor of conducting Mr. Seward to tlic great castle, where he will be received by his Majesty the Tenno ;. not in the customary official manner, but in a private audience, as an expression of personal respect and friendship, I am particularly commanded to make this explanation of the character of the pro- posed audience." At nine o'clock the party proceeded in two carriages, witb an enlarged mounted escort. Tliey were conducted, whether by design or not, through streets bordered by immense walled en- closures, which are the strongholds and barracks of the several daimios who, under the Tycoon's administration, were required to reside during alternate periods, with their armed retainers, at the- capital. The discontinuance of this usage, since the restoration of the Mikado, is a singular illustration of the same advance toward a more popular system of government which was made by the kings of Europe when they reduced the feudal barons to subjection. The barracks vacated by the daimios' soldiers are now occupied by imperial battalions. The feudal soldiers of the Tycoon must have boen a ferocious crew, if they were more savage than these rough «**•• t\ \ > I 5 -! :i 80 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. and ill-looking guards of the Tenno. The citadel, called " The Great Castle," crowns an eminence in the centre of the city. It is a triple fortification, nine miles in circumference, consisting of three con- centric forts, each by itself complete, with rampart, inner embank- ment, ditch, bastion and glacis, parapet and double gates. The outer fort stands on a level with the plain, the next higher, and the central one higher still, overlooking the country and the sea. The walls of each are fifty feet high, built of granite blocks, more mas- sive than those of the Eip-Raps, oil' Old Point Comfort. The impe- rial palace is in the centre of the inner fort. It is a low structure, differing from the temples and monasteries which we have before described, not in niaterial or style of architecture, but in the ar- rangement of its apartments. The area which surrounds it is tastefully planted and adorned with lawns, winding gravelled walks, small lakes, and what we would call summer-houses, and tenements for attendants and servants. The areas of the other two fortifications are similarly embellished. In any past stage of mili- tary science, the citadel must have been impregnable. "We cannot learn its history. AVlicn Mr. Seward and his friends had reached the gates of the outer fort, they were received with a salute at each of the double portals, and were permitted to pass through in carriages to the gates of the second. They were received here with similar hon- ors, and passed to the gates of the tliird. Entering these with salutes as before, they were received by one of the eight Ministers of Foreign Aftairs, who, having requested them to dismiss their carriages, conducted them, with much obeisance, across the lawns to a sheltered place, where they rested on lacque/ stools. Here a second Minister of Foreign Aflfiiirs joined the party, and, making new compliments, led them to seats on the shore of a small lake. Here the minister informed Mr. Seward that Mr. Walsh, being an unofficial gentleman, could proceed no farther, and that the same rule excluded Freeman. They stopped. At this juncture Sawa, chief Minister of Foreign Affairs, met Mr. Seward, and conducted him to a summer-house more spacious than the others, which over- looks a larger and deeper lake. On the way thither, he obtained a INTERVIEW WITH THE MIKADO. 81 view of a part of the imperial stud. A rail twelve or fifteen feet long is fixed three feet above the ground, on supports. Several iron-gray Japanese ponies, unattended by grooms, stood at this rail, in readiness for his Majesty's use at the close of the proposed audi- ence. When the party had arrived at the summer-house, the prime- minister, the Chief Minister of Finance and the heads of the other departments, were found waiting, and they were severally presented by Sawa to Mr. Seward, The whole party then sat down at an oblong table, the prime-minister presiding, and Mr. Seward and the other visitors on his left hand, the Japanese ministers on his right. The prime-minister first, and after him each of his associates, ad- dressed Mr. Seward in words of courteous welcome, to which he briefly replied. A pleasant conversation now ensued, during which tea, cakes, confectionery, cigars and champagne, were tMccessively brought in by attendants, who prostrated themselves on the ground at every ofier of their service. The prime-minister then, in a very direct but most courteous way, said to Mr. Seward : " It is thf" custom of his Majesty the Tenno to receive official visits upon busi ness affairs in an edifice which is built for that express public pur- pose, and called among us a court ; but his Majesty on this occasion recognizes you as a special friend of Japan, and a man devoted to the welfare of all nations, and he therefore proposes, by way of showing his high respec. for you, to receive you, not at a public court, but in a private lodge of his own, to which he will come down fi'om his palace to meet you." Mr. Seward answered that he appreciated his Majesty's conde- scension and kindness. "While this conversation was going on, Mr. Seward, looking through an open window, saw at a long dis- tance his friend Mr. Walsh, and Freeman, walking within the pre- cinct which had been appointed them. Presently, an officer came hurriedly into the presence of the grave international council at the summer-house, and announced an intrusion. The prime-minister, upon Mr. Seward's explanation, directed that tlie supposed eaves- droppers should not be interfered with, but they must come no farther. When half sn hour had passed, a chamberlain announced his r ^ • i I I S2 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. Majesty's arrival at the summer-house. Sawa and Ishtabasln re- mained with Mr. Seward ; all the other ministers took leave to join the Mikado. A final summons came to Sawa ; he rose and con- ducted the party some distance along a smooth, narrow walk, till they came to a high, shaded knoll, conversing by the way. The minister and Ishtabaslii now stopped, and, making lov/ genu- flections, announced, in subdued and almost Avhispering tones, that his Majesty was to be in a summer-house directly behind this hill. After this, there was no word spoken. When they had gone round the knoll, the lodge which now contained the heaven-derived Maj- esty ' ipan came to view. It stands five feet above the ground, is one story high, and consists of four square rooms of equal size, Avith sliding partitions, the ceilings six feet high, and the whole building surrounded by a veranda. All the rooms were thrown open, and were without furniture. The visitors entered the apartment, which was at their left, and, looking directly forward, saw only Ishtabaslii surrounded by a crowd of official persons, all crouched on the floor. Having reached the exact centre of the room, Mr. Seward was requested to turn to the right. He did this without changing his place. The United States minister and the consul stood at his right iiand. In this position he directly confronted the Mikado, m'Iio was sittin": on a throne raised on a dais two feet above the floor. The throne :s a large arm-chair, apparently of burnished gold, not difi'er- 43nt in form or ornamert I'rom the thrones which are used on cere- monial occasions in European courts. All the cabinet ministers and many other officials had arranged themselves below the dais, and behind and around the throne. The Mikado was dressed in a voluminous robe of re.ldish-brown brocade, which covered his whole person. His head-dress differed in fashion from that which was worn by Sawa in our audience with him, only in this, that a kind of curved projecting prong Avas attached to the boat-shaped cap, and bent upward, the corresponding appurtenance of the minister's cap being shorter, and bent downward. What with the elevation of the dais, and the height of his elongated cap, the emperor's per- son, though in a sitting posture, seemed to stretch from the floor ±0 the ceiling. His appearance in that flowing costume, surrounded from a translatio INTERVIEW WITH THE MIKADO. 8'S by a mass of ministers and courtiers, enveloped in variegated and equally redundant silken folds, resting on the floor, reminded Mr. Seward of some of the efforts in mythc'ogy to represent a deity sitting in the clouds. His dark countenance is neither unintelligent nor particularly expressive. He was motionless as a statue. He held a sceptre in his right hand, and at his left side wore one richly- ornamented, straight s\>crd. What the Mikado and his court thought of the costumes of his visitors, with their uncovered heads, square, swallow-tailed dress-coats, tight white cravats, tighter panta- loons, and stiff, black boots, we shall never know. Who shall pro- nounce between nations in matters of costume ? The Mikado raised his sceptre, and the prime-minister, kneeling, then announced to the United States minister, by the aid of Ishtabashi, also kneeling, that lie might speak. Mr. De Long advanced a step or two, and, bowing three several times, said : " I hope I find your Majesty in good health." The prime-minister, kneeling again, presented to the Mikado a written paper, open, and as large as a sheet of foolscap. The Em- peror, after looking at its contents, touched it with his sceptre. The prime-minister read it aloud in Japanese. Ishtabashi, again kneeling, brought his head to the floor, and, then raising it, read, from a translation which lay before him on the floor, his Majesty's gracious answer : " I am very well ; I am glad to see you here." Thereupon Mr. De Long, thus rcassure(,l, said in a distinct voice, worthy of a Western orator as he is : " I have the honor to present to your Majesty, William H. Sew- ard, a citizen of the United States. Your Majesty having been pleased to invite him to this audience, it is unnecessai*y for me to speak of the achievements or of the character of this eminent Ameri- can statesman." The interpreter, having rendered this speech into Japanese, Mr, De Long resumed his place. In accordance with an intima- tion from the prime-minister, Mr. Seward now advanced, and said : " I am deeply impressed by this gracious reception by the sovereign, at the capital of this great, populous, and emulous em- pire. I desire to express earnest wishes for your Majesty's per- IS.'- -s; ll' ■>« ri ir c ^ T. ; I t1 84 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. sonal health and happiness, and for the peace, welftire, and pros- perity of Japan." The prime-minister held before his Majesty another paper, which, being read by him, was then rendered by the interpreter as follows : " I am glad to see you now for the first time. I congratulate you on your safe arrival here, after the very long journey you have made. The great experience which you have had must enable you to give me important information and advice how to promote the friendship that happily exists between your country and my own. If you Avould please to communicate any thing in that way, you are requested to make it known to my prime-minister, and I invite you to express yourself frankly and without reserve." Mr. Seward replied : " I thank your Majesty for this gracious permission to confer with the prime-minister on international affairs. A citizen of the United States, I am visiting Japan and the adjacent countries on the Pacific coast, as a traveller and ob- server. I wear no ofiicial character, and I bring no message. The President, however, and all my countrymen, will expect me not to leave any thing undone which I can do, to promote a happy under- standing between those countries and the United States, as well as also the advancement of civilization in both hemispheres. "With this view, I shall, with great pleasure, avail myself of the privileges v/hich your Majesty has granted me." The Empeior, with his entire court, remained in place until the visitors had retired, after an exchange of salutations. They wore conducted back to the summer-house. All the Japanese ministers soon cntei'ed and resumed their places around the table. Eefresli- ments were served, and Mr. Seward was informed that his audience was the first occasion on which the Mikado has completely unveiled himself to a visitor. ITot only the prime-minister, but all his asso- ciates, discussed with Mr. Seward at much length the political re- lations of Japan with foreign powers. The minister desired him to take notice that the government, in dealing with the vanquished Tycoon's party in Japan, at the close of the late revolution, liad copied the example of toleration given them by the United States. INTERVIEW WITH THE MIKADO. 85 They carefully inquired concerning the machinery employed in the United States in taking the decennial census, and also the details of the system of collecting and disbursing public revenues. They wrote a letter on the spot, addressed to their ambassador at Peking, and, delivering it to Mr. Seward, solicited his aid of their interest at that court. Mr. Seward was deeply impressed on two points : First, that although the administration of justice in Japan is conducted in a manner widely different from that of the Western nations, yet that the public mind entertains not the least distrust of its impartiality. Second, that the administration of the Mikado is sincerely emulous and progressive. Again, if there is any danger ill the near future, it will arise, not from a retarding, but from a more rapid acceptance by the government of "Western ideas and sentiments, than a people so rude can at once understand. The ministers had assigned the whole day for the high consnlta- tion. They expressed much regret when Mr. Seward announced that he v*-as obliged to depart at the earliest moment for Yokohama, where the steamer was waiting. Waiving invitations to examine the citadel and the imperial palace and grounds, Mr. Seward re- turned to the Consulate, and thence proceeded down the bay, directly to this steamer, bound for Iliogo. A box followed hini which contained all the cake. Cruit, and con- fectionery, which remained from the entertaini lent at the Castle. The ladies noticed that t]ie varieties of cakes were not merely col- ored externally, but through and through — crimson, yellow, purple, and indigo. The supply £ufficient for the voyage to Shanghai. It ought not to mar the effect of the Mikado's >^.ourtesy, if we state that the audience, in its minutest details, W2.d projected and perfected in the Japanese cabinet, with the concurrence of Mr. De Long. All European governments, and even tbat of the United States, adopt a similar precaution in regard to official executive audiences. Japan lias especial reasons for prudence. The empire is a soli- tary planet, that has remained stationary for centuries, until now it is suddenly brought into contact with constellations which, whfle they shed a dazzling light, continually threaten destnictive collisions- ri - 1 I $ 1.9 t1 CHAPTER III. FROM YEDDO TO SHANGHAI. Hiogo. — The Place of Massacre. — A Japanese Steamer. — The Gulf of Osaka. — A Harem on a Pie-nio. — The City of Osaka. — Tlie Tycoon's Castle. — Japanese Troops. — Nagasaki. — Beautiful Scenery. — Christians of Naga.'aki. — Japanese Character. — Departure for China. — Concluding Reflections on Japan. Iliogo (Kobe)^ Mondaij, October 10th. — A voyage of thirty-six hours, in which night and rain have prevented nil observation, has brought us to this southeastern port on the island of Niplion. The United States Consul, Mr. Stewart, and the agent of the Pacific Mail Line, came on board in the early morning. They were sur- prised when Mr. Seward pointed out to them with minuteness and accuracy the several places of interest in the port. " This," he said " is the European settlement, that place behind it the native town of Iliogo : the road which divides them is the one on which tlic Mikado's army was moving northward at the time when it fired upon and massacred the foreigners in 1804 : this is the field through which the foreigners were pursued by the Japanese soldiers on that occasion : it was in the bay here on our right that the natives massacred the French naval surveying party in their boats : was it not in the building which I see on that hill that the Mikado's officers, who were condemned to death for those atrocious outrages, committed hari-hari, and that the foreign ministers interposed after seventeen such self-executions, and said, '■ It is enough ? ' On this knoll is the place where the offenders were buried." The ottioial reports of those painful transactions which Mr. Yan Van (/) U {« u <>« r * a» 88 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. Valkenbiirgh, the United States Minister, made to tlie Department of State, liad left this distinct and inolface.iblo impression on Mr. Seward'a mind. It is five years since those massacres occurred. Wo now find that the people, obeying the instinct of nationality, have erected a monument over the grave of each of those victini.s, and on that monument have recorded his voluntary death as an ad of civil and religious martyrdom. So true to country and to God are the impulses of our common nature everywhere. Iliogo is twenty miles distant from Osaka, and bears the same relation to that great southern metropolis of Japan that Yokohaniii bears to the central one of Ycddo. Iliogo, opened quite recently to foreign commerce, is not especially successful. Since the opening of Japan, the population of Yeddo has been reduced from three millions to one million, chiefly by removals to Yokohama. On tlio contrary, Osaka has not materially declined, nor has Iliogo consid- erably increased. The foreign population of Iliogo is at most two hundred. The importance of its harbor is duo to its double advan- tages as a port of Osaka and a gateway to the Inland Sea of Japan. October Wtli. — We dined yesterday with Mr. Senter's amialilc family, and slept in the Japanese bungalow, now occupied as the Consulate, by the side of its pretty lotus-garden. Although the lotus has been held sacred from time immemorial as a divine symbol throughout the whole East, it is nevertheless indigenous only in tropical and semi-tropical climates. We now for the first time see in perfection on its native soil this magnificent flower, of which, " whosoever eateth wishes never again to depart, nor to see his native country, if it groweth not there." Here the intelligent Japanese governor passed two hours with Mr. Seward, explaining the system of provincial administration, which seems very effective. He learns also that education of all classes is compulsory, and that the schools are maintained by taxa- tion, which is remitted in behalf of the poor. We went, this morning, on board a small coasting steamer, which was built in the United States for Japanese owners, and is managed exclusively by natives. The gulf of Osaka has pictu- resque shores, tl G(\^Q. Tlie slo] niits are i)ianted on the higljest p ■-^;"-i.-=,S from gilded roofs, J''tpan is a masculi native jealousy of tl .c TKMI'LK C)F TIIK MOON. 80 rcsqiic shores, tliicl.ly studded with villap!;('S, chisterinf? at the waterV edge. The slopni<^ hills are terraced und irrigated, and their smn- niits are planted with forests. The Templq of the Moon, standing on the highest peak of the mountain, reflected the morning sunlight TEMI'LK AT OSAKA. from gilded roofs, resting on snow-white cohimns. The moon in Japan is a masculine deity. Is this exceptional idea due to the native jealousy of the gentle sex ? Or is it owing to the fact that dk- M 1 90 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. it is a man's face and not a woman's that is seen in that benignanr orb ? Quien sabe ? It is the bar at Osaka which forces the ocean-trade to a harbor so distant as Hiogo. Our countryman, Admiral Bell, lost his life two years ago, in sounding it. Our steamer could not cross, though drawing only four feot. Osaka, as early as the sixteenth century, became a great com- mercial city. Its temples, surpassing those of Yeddo in number, vie with those of spiritual Miako. As we approached the bar, we saw a gay Japanese yacht, of perhaps two hundred and fifty tons, moving slowly out to se-^. under a light wind. The sails were quaint, like the form of the vessel they impelled, which was brilliant with scarlet and blue pniut and gilding. A daimio sat at the stern on the upper deck, gorgeously arrayed in silks and lacquer, sur- rounded by numerous retainers and a bevy of highly-painted and elegantly-dressed young women, who were entertaining him Avith a concert of guitars, flutes, and drums. Manifestly the daimio was giving his harem a picnic. We were transferred here to a small, neat, flat-bottomed bamboo barge, with a canopy overhead and a deck covered with mats, iu which we floated over the bar, and up to the great sea-wall of the city. The confluence of two xivers with the sea makes the harbor of Osaka, like that of Charleston. The rivers are formed into canals, and connected at convenient intervals by cross-canals. Venic(3 is not more noticeable for its gondolas and barges, nor Amsterdam for its pleasure-boats, than Osaka for its picturesque shallops cov- ered with bright awnings of various colors. It is perhaps from the anmsements of the regatta that the women in Osaka have ac- quired the fame of being the prettiest in the empire. Time served U3 to traverse only three or four of the thirty or forty canals, hut suflScient to enable us to reach the more important monuments and institutions of the metropolis, to notice the regularity of the streets, the grace and lightness of the hundred cedar bridges, and to wonder at the immense traffic carried on by families who dwell in the vessels they navigate. The wealth and enterprise of Japan belDg in the southe emporium. While, for a part of each litical capital, i commercial Os palaces, witJi si ceived dieir rei Between th dwellings, two ^^SXi^tL' tfeSE^is^ The lower story tl>e tides and flooj •IS elsewhere in The nudity, so frel and offensive. c| tJiat few foreigneri anco of dweliingsl OSAKA. 01 in the southern part of the empire, Osaka is the domestic main emporium. While, for centuries, state policy required the daimios to reside a part of each year with their armed retainer it Yeddo, the po- litical capital, the same daimios made their metropolitan homes in commercial Osaka. Here, on the banks of the canals, they erected palaces, with storehouses and wharves and offices. Here they re- ceived their rents in kind, and exchanged them in trade. Between these palaces the canals are lined with cheaply -built dwellings, two stories high, with a veranda around the first story. a;- 4 t 8TBEBT IN OSAKA. The lower story is a mercantile convenience, being washed with the tides and floods. The people seen in the streets here, as well as elsewhere in Japan, wear wooden shoes and dress coarsely. The nudity, so frequent at the nortl.', becoraec liere more common and offensive. Crowds followed us with a curiosity which shows tliat few foreigners visit Osaka. Notwithstanding the mean appear- nnco of dwellings and people, the city contrasts favorably with I I*; 92 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. Yeddo, in show of prosperity and affluence. Some of the temples are built within the areas of the princely palaces. More commonly, however, they are independent and spacious, and, like the palaces, accessible through canals and bas'ins. They are on the same model with those at Yeddo, but more lavishly ornamented with allegorical carving, and statuary in granite and bronze. Men are seldom seen in or about the temples in Japan, but woman, poor, meek and rag- ged, though forbidden, steals in there, reverently paying her devo- tion to the gods and pitifully asking alms. How could woman en- dure existence anywhere on earth without the solaces of religion ? " From all ancienty to the present time," as a stump-orator, we once heard, expressed it, the Japanese have made their irregular and grotesque coins with the use only of the hammer. The govern- ment has just now established a mint at Osaka, with machinery of the latest invention, and equal, it is claimed, to the Philadelphia Mint. Here they are making new coins similar in form and de- vice to those of the Western nations, the value being based on sub- divisions of the Mexican dollar. Livy has given us what he says was the speech of Romulus when he had founded Eome: "If all the strength of cities lay in the height of their ramparts or the depths of their ditches, we should have great reason to be in fear for that which wc have now built." The Japanese might be excused i^ they should reverse this senti- ment, and speak with great confidence of the security of the empire derived from ramparts and ditches. As with Yeddo, so with Osaka. Its boast is its castle, an imperial residence and fortress of mikados and tycoons. We tried ineffectually to obtain a measurement of some of the granite blocks of this structure. Wc think it safe, how- ever, to say, that one of them is thirty feet long; fifteen feet high and five feet thick. No one knows where, when or how, such im- mense stones were riven at the quarry, and brought to the summit of the lofty hill, which overlooks the city of Osaka. The Tycoon in the late civil war, however, took possession of the castle witli his forces, only to find it a prison, and insecure at that. He was dis- lodged by the Mikado's army, and made his escape on a United States steamer. Before leaving the citadel, he destroyed its defensive works, so as t< as a camp of the castle at capital to the show considers castle, and alio honored with i European artil liorns. The di native Japanes( legged, but dre of the first orga Japanese are n evolutions and ( The Japanes the world, but t which overtook family being the our clothes, and soup." When shut out from Osaka, to be see of the "fruit of on the now rou" ' pitching of the s side-ladder of th( Nagamhl, 0> so Nagasaki com Tliat sea is a to Ocean on the ea west coast of Jap tlie southern islfi this channel m; separates once co through ? Was a MILITARY HONORS. 93 works, so as to render it unavailable to the conqueror. Now used as a camp of instruction, it is as jealously closed against visitors as the castle at Yeddo. Instructions having come down from the capital to the Governor here, as well as to the one at Hiogo, to show consideration to Mr. Seward, we were conducted through the castle, and allowed to witness the drill, and at the same time were honored with a serenade from the trumpeters, which consisted of European artillery and cavalry calls jumbled together on French horns. The din and discord may be imagined. The bronze-faced native Japanese troops, lower than European in stature, and bow- legged, but dressed in French uniforms, recalled our recollections of the first organization of negi-o troops in the late civil war. The Japanese are not less docile and orderly, and they went through evolutions and drill, according to French tactics, commendably. The Japanese umbrellas are the best as they are the cheapest in the world, but they could give us no protection from the rain-storm which overtook us in the dilapidated castle. Captain Kinder's family being the only European one in Osaka, took us in and dried our clothes, and gave us all we had time to take, " a hasty plate of soup." When we reached our yacht, black night with high winds shut out from us the beautiful gulf-shores, and so passed away Osaka, to be seen no more by us, for we have taken care not to eat of the '• fruit of destiny," the lotus. The heaving of the steamer on the now roughened sea was uncomfortable, but the tossing and ' pitching of the small boat which conveyed us from the yacht to the side-ladder of the New York was dangerous and frightful. Naga^ak% October 13^A. — As Hiogo commands the southeast, so Nagasaki commands the northwest entrance of the Inland Seu. That sea is a tortuous passage, flowing between the North Pacific Ocean on the east and the Yellow Sea or Straits of Corea on the west coast of Japan, separating the northern island of Niplion from the southern islands of Toksima and Kiusiu. How and when was this channel made? Were the three mountain-islands which it separates once compact land, and did the ocean force its passage through? Was all Japan once submerged, and were the islands *J^Ji=» t»^ f« (»'' >4 ^ i£ '•« r ■% in;- 1 r c ■'i 1 Bu- »^ »' rf 1 r « £i 04 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. thrown up in their present form ? Who can say ? Not we. Per- haps Agassiz niiglit. We must content ourselves with writing that, EN rUANCK TO NAGASAKI. like most inland seas, this of Japan is marvellously beautiful. Four hundred miles long, of varying width, everywhere deep, it M'ashes the shores of the main islands in some places, while in others it is broken into twentv narrower channels which break on the shores of uncounted lesser islands. In this the Inland Sea re- sembles our own Lake of the Woods, which takes its strange name from the fact that the island-surface enclosed within its shores exceeds in area the water-surface of the lake. Tliese islands of the Inland Sea are said to be three thousand, but we are inclined to tliink that islands in groups like these are never accurately counted. Everybody speaks of the Thousand Islands in the St. Lawrence, without remembering that they are reckoned at eighteen hundred. ^<^ IIARBOPw OF NAGASAKI. 9: The channel twists around and among the islands in all direc- tions, so that the headlands which we pass seem as Heeling as the clouds, producing ever-varying scenery. During one hour, we arc making our gloomy way under the deep shadow of a naked preci- pice four thousand feet high. In the next, we are passing terraced hill-sides, covered with sunlit orchards, Howory plains and fields, and forests in which the bamboo, the tulip and the cypress commingle. It seems as if the busy population of the whole empire has clustered on these romantic shores. Manufacturing towns alternate with 1 r1 NAGASAKI IIARBOB. fishing-villages, and every nook is filled with quaint and miniature shipping. Niffht set in, and the bell summoned us to dinner as we were beginning to round a jutting promontory of the western shore. Shall we ever forgive Mr. Kandall for beguiling us with his humor- ous stories until we were brought suddenly to our feet, by the hi 96 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. dropping of the anchor, and the firing of a gun, which announced to us that we had arrived in port 'i A moonlight view of Nagasaki ; fitting sequel of a two-days' voyage through the Inland Sea. AVe forgive Mr. Randall ; the first view of Nagasaki ought to be by moonlight. The bay is small ; we almost know, without being told, every object around us. These vessels on the larboard arc Japanese ships-of-war. This steamer directly before us is a German man-of-war ; this ship on our star- board quarter, with its black funnels and its stubbed masts, is the British admiral's flag-ship ; and this long, narrow steamer is a Rus- sian corvette. Beyond tiie area thus occupied by armed vessels are two American merchant-ships and forty awkward but sea- worthy Chinese junks. On encircling hills, which rise two thou- sand feet out Those dark si cor.sulates an ravine which the ancient nf trade ; this isl the famous Di the boast and raced hill-siae; TKMHLE OF UUUOUA AT NAUAHAKl. high, conical ro Papenburg, me Jesuit teachers AVliat does Instant with t livers its natioi swelling forth " God save the MOONLIGHT VIEW. 97 sand feet out of the sea, ai*e the temples and groves of Buddha. Those dark shades below theiu are hanging gardens in which the cor.sulates and the merchants' residences are embowered. Thi.s ravine which stretches from the shore upward on the hill-side is the ancient native town ; this quay on our right is the seat of active trade; this island just before us, hardly broader than a flat-boat, is the famous Decima, for two hundred years the mart and the prison, tho boast and the shame of the Dutch traders in Japan ; those ter- raced hill-sides opposite the town are the city of the dead ; and this •at 2 i. M f I ly^ J.fUMI^H. VIEW OK DECIMA. high, conical rock, which seems to close the passage to the sea, is Papenburg, memorable as the scene of the martyrdom of the early Jesuit teachers and converts in Japan. Wliat does this scene want to perfect its magic? Only masic! Instant with the thought, the band on the German frigate de- livers its national hymn, " Des Deutsche Yaterland ; " then come swelling forth from the British flag-ship the inspiring notes of " God save the Queen ; " and these only die away, when the solemn 98 JAPAN, nniNA, AXD COCHIN CHINA. national anthem of Eussia, " Thou pious and gentle leader, shield of the church of believers, God be the protector and defender of our great Czur," grander than !;11, rolls over the sea. Is not this glorious concevt, under the flags of these great Chris^ tian nations, in these distant and lonely waters, suggestive? Mr. Seward answered, " Yes, but deceptive." The German is here lying in wait for his French enemy ; the British admiral is here to intimidate the scmi-barbarc>us races ; and the Russian admiral is guarding the eastern gate of his master's empire, which towers be- hind and above Asiatic and European states on both continents. So it is that jealousy and ambition breathe in the notes of this ma- jestic serenade. October lUh. — It is because we cannot swim that we fear the deep. It is because we delight in climbing that we admire the high. While the flat is dull, the circle is our chosen form for the beautiful. Thus the amphitheatre, with its circular and lofty walls, was adopted for the Pantheon as well as for the Coliseum ; though it has since been sometimes discarded from the temple, it remains nevertheless universally associated with the stage and the hippodrome. If we must live in a town, give us one which, like Nagasaki, is an amphi- theatre, whose base is the sea, and whose towering walls are green and terraced mountains. It was under an inspiration like this that Peter on the mount said : " Master, it is good for us to be here. Let us make three tabernacles, one for thee, one for Moses, an one for Elias." * The preaching of Christianity here by St. Francis Xavier, in 1540, was followed by such success that, within fifty years afterward, Nagasaki w'as surrendered by its native prince to the Portuguese, and became at once the see of an episcopate, and an emporium of Portuguese trade. But Xavier little apprehended that the Order of Jesus, which he was introducing, would become so arrogant and ambitious as to contest with the native sovereign absolute dominion within the empire. The Portuguese Chris- tians thus becoming obnoxious to the government, all foreigners were within the first hundred years excluded from Japan, under pain of death, while persecutions more cruel than th-^se of Nero PARTING VIEW OF JAPAN. 09 were visited on the teachers and converts alike. A few Protestant merchants from Amsterdam, renouncing their religion, joined the government in the persr , iition of the Christians, and were ])er- mitted, under Immiliating surveillance, to replace the Portuguese at Nagasaki. This truly pitiable colony was found here on the arrival of *^he United States squadron in 1853. It was understood, at that time, that the Christian faith had been effectually extirpated by the massacres at Papenburg. The world was astonished, hoAv- ever, \i\ 1867, by a discovery that the Christian religion was still living in the province of Nagasaki, and that a large number of natives were condemned to death or servitude for their clandestine adherence to that taitb. The Western nations interposed in their behalf. The government contented itself with forcibly deporting twenty-seven hundred of the offending Christians from their homes, and distributing them through the more distant provinces of the empire. This new persecution being thus arrested, it is manifestly the intention of the government now to adopt the principle of uni- versal toleration. It would be pleasant to dwell on the hospitalities of Mr. and Mrs. Mangum, and on the courtesies of the foreign fleets. Yellow Sea, October l^th. — Leaving Nagasaki yesterday morn- ing, we carefully examined Coal Island and the other islands which close the magnificent harbor. Nor did we omit to notice that marvellous rock, which, having been dropped nobody knows how or from where, is lodged like a wedge between two naked natural abutments. Our parting view of Japan was a sunset glimpse of the Goto Group, the western outpost of the Island Empire. It is hardly more satisfactory to quit Japan after a residence of only twenty days, than it would have been to leave it altogether un visited ; nevertheless, there is Peking before us, " a bourn from which no traveller" can "return" later Lhan November, and so we must onward. Let us set down our memories, such as they are, while they are fresh. Although society in Japan is divided, as it is in every other coun- try, into high classes and low classes, classes wearing two swords, { > t1 100 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. classes wearing one sword, and classes wearing no swords at all, yet the people are universally docile and amiable. We saw not one act of rudeness, and heard not one word of ill-temper, in the country. Heaven knows that, in the arrogant assumv^! ^y foreigners of superiority among them, the people have pr. < .„ions enough for both ! One of the Japanese ambassadors to the United States in 1867 was robbed at Baltimore of a richly-mounted sword. Neither he nor his government made any complaint. Mr. Seward for- tunately recovered and restored it, with a national apology. Foreign residents in Japanese cities are often timid, jealous, and suspicious. Some are prone to exaggerate inconveniences into offences. Others are dogmatic and contemptuous. Even one of the most generous of American citizens, when driving Mr. Seward through the streets of Yeddo, could not forbear from cracking his whip over the bare heads of the native crowd. Mr. Seward endured this flourish silently, but he vehemently and earnestly implored his imi^ctuous friend to spare a litter of sleeping puppies which lay in the way. Women and children shrieked as they caught up the mangled brutes behind the carriage-wheels, but the relentless charioteer only said : "It will never do to stop for such things ; let them learn to keep their streets clear." Intimidation and menace naturally provoke anger and resentment. European and American fleets are always hovering over the coasts of Japan. Though the eye of the Japanese is long and curved, it sees as clearly as the foreign eve, which is round and straight. Human nature is the same in all races. Who could wonder if the Asiatics foil to love, where they are taught only to fear ? It would be manifestly unfair to judge the Japanese by the standard of Western civilization. Measured by the Oriental one, it cannot be denied that it excels the Asiatic states to whose system it belongs. The affections of family and kindred seem as strong here as elsewhere. There is no neglect of children ; there is no want of connubial care ; no lack of parental love or filial devotion. Nor is it to be forgotten that, in regard to domestic morals, we are giving the Japanese some strange instructions. On this very ship on which we have embarked, there is a German merchant who, after a the mountain-verj JAPANESE CIVILIZATION. 101 siiort l)ut successful career in Yokoliamn, is returning rich to hia native land; -with him his child, a pretty brunette buy, two yeais old. The father brings him to us to be caressed. We ask, " Where is the Japanese mother?" "I have left her behind; she would not be fit to bring up the boy, or to be seen hersell' in a European country." No one denies that the Japanese have both the courage and the politeness which belong to an heroic people. They are ac- cused of practising fraud, cunning, and cruelty in Avar. Arc they more vicious in this respect than other pagan or even Chris- tian nations ? Do not the records of war on our own soil contain ii melancholy catalogue of similar crimes? Are not the pages which record Napoleon's great campaigns sullied by deeds aliko unworthy of our race? The Japanese are sanguinary in civil war. Are they more so than the French were in their first groat Revolution ? The painstaking culture which extends from the water's edge to the mountain-verge ; the tedious manipulation practised in mech- anism ; and the patient drudgery of the coolies in the cities, in labor elsewhere performed by domestic animals, show that the Japanese arc industrious. Though the empire has, from its earliest period,, been isolated from the civilized world, yet the silks of that country \^-ero found among the richest freights of Venice. A Japanese bazaar is seen in every modem European city ; and there is no drawing-room, museum, or palace in the world, which is completely famished without Japanese fabrics. They have no legislature, yet they have uniform laws, and these laws are legibly inscribed on tablets at every cross-rond and market- place. Although science and literature in the West have borrowed little or nothing from these islands, the Japanese trre nevertheless a reading and writing people. We hardly know wnether Boston, Philadelphia, or New York shop-windows display greater number or variety of maps, books, charts auvl pictures, than the stalls of Yeddo, Osaka, or Miako. Japan is populous, whether we allow it twenty millions, as some of our missionaries do, or fifty millions, as the prime-minister a at t Uv. rl I 102 JAPAX, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. claimed in liis conversation with Mr. Seward. Neverthelci^s, nicu- dicity, thoii^di luircstruincd by law, is less otiensive than in Naples, or even in New York. It would be a curious study to inquire how and when the se- vere feudal nu)del of the middle agei4 of Europe obtained a place in Japan, or how it has continued so long among a people so mer- curial, and yet so thoughtful. While in theory the Mikado is sov- ereign proprietor, the whole domain practically belongs to ihc daimios, who are rich. The revenues of many of them are not less than the public revenues of some of the States of our Federal Union. Tiiough the peasantry are poor, we nowhere heard a complaint against rents or taxes, or the price of labor. Moreover, the Japan- ese, w^liile they encourage immigration, never emigrate. "VVe infer from these facts that, if not a' happy people, they are at least a contented one. They were a religious people when they accepted the Mikado, and gave him their reverence. They must have been a religious people, when they accepted from the Mikado the teachings of the Sintu sect ; they miiSt lur i been a religious people, when the doc- trines of Buddha supplanted so generally the dreamy mysticisms of the earlier faith. Xavier found them a religious people, willing to accept the teachings of Christianity. But the religious age in Japan has passed. Confucian philosophy has nndennined all myth- ological creeds, and left the Japanese a nation of doubters. Gov- ernment now makes no provision for the support of religious orders. Their revenues, derived from ancient foundations, are diminishing. The priesthood is as inoffensive as it is poor. It may be expected that under this toleration the Christian faith will now, for the first time, come into public consideration in Japan in the way it ought to come, that is to say, in connection with the science, literature, and art, and the political, moral, and social institutions of the "Western nations. The Japanese arc less an imitative people than an inquiring one. They are not, however, excitable concerning the events of the day, but rather diligent in studying what is useful. All their dramatic .repre&entations are didactic ; and, though they have a fondness for legerdemain, tli makes them thii The most ui: ncss of tlie ])opi mon i)eople nei the public bathi throughout the without the ri<r] basement of wo "We are obliged t nont place in the we have had of h that among them Japanese hist( the science, litern but from ancient Cliina in civilizat: of the Grecian, distinct and inde own civilization, \ from any quarter, joyed a fortune had developed a they came into c nation went dowr disappeared. Th were maturing readied by the W( tlicy more clearly great promptness European intervei remained so near!; (luring that time, has at last come electric telegraph, shores of Japan. JAPANESE SOCIETY. 103 legerdemain, they enjoy it not because it is amusing, but because it iiiiikes them tliink from i)owei' to product, from cause to effect. The most unpropitious feature of Japanese society is the gross- iicss of the popuhir sense in regard to wonuin. Among the com- mon people neither sex maintains decency in dress, and they use the public bathing-houses promiscuously. In Japan, as elsewhere throughout the East, there indeed is marriage, but it is marriage without the rights and responsibilities of that relation. This de- basement of woman has tainted and corrupted the whole state. We are obliged to conchide that domestic virtue has not a promi- nent place in the morals of Japan, although some glimpses which we have had of life in the upper classes have inclined us to believe that among them vice is not altogether free from restraint. Japanese history derives many of the institutions and much of the science, literature and morals of the country, not from China, but from ancient Corea, which seems to have taken precedence of China in civilization, as the Pelasgian civilization took precedence of the Grecian. The Japanese may, however, be considered as a distinct and independent Mongolian race, which has matured its own civilization, without having been deeply affected by intrusion from any quarter. In this respect the Japanese seem to have en- joyed a fortune like that of the Aztecs of Mexico. That people had developed a unique civilization, and were maturing it, when they came into conflict with European nations. The Mexican nation went down under the violence of the shock, and altogether disappeared. The Japanese had in like manner effected and were maturing a civilization of their own when they were reached by the Western nations. More advanced than the Aztecs, they more clearly apprehended the danger of the contact, and with great promptness and decision they effectually resisted and defeated European intervention. Having thus isolated themselves, they remained so nearly three hundred years. If they did not advance during that time, they did not fixll back. That isolation, however, has at last come to an end ; steam, the printing-press, and the electric telegraph, have brought the "Western nations on all the shores of Japan. It Is manifest that the two distinct and widely- *.^■rM« •t 4 I 104 JAPA^T, CIIIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. different civilizations cannot continne in such near contact. Tlie great problem now is, whether the European civilization can be extended over Japan, without the destruction, not merely of the political institutions of the country, but of the Japanese nation itself. The Japanese arc practically defenceless against the West- ern States. If they are to be brought completely into the society of those nations, it must either be by the application of force, or by that of persuasion and encouragement. The interests of both re- quire that the latter mode should be adopted, but it yet remains to be seen whether "Western civilization has reached such a moral plane as to secure its voluntary and peaceful adoption. There is much of discouragement in the prospect. Few station- ary or declining nations have been regenerated by the intervention of states more highly civilized. Most such have perished under the shock. On the other hand, there are some reasons for hope. Man- kind seem at last to have risen equally above the theory that uni- versal conquest is beneficent, and above the theory that it is pos- sible. Commerce has largely taken the place of war, and it is now universally felt that interest and humanity go hand in hand. It is the distinction of the Lnited States, and we may hope fortunate for Japan, that they have come to the front of the Western states as tutors of the decaying Asiatic nations. If the tutorship of the United States in Japan is to be made successful, it must be based on deeper and broader principles of philanthropy than have heretofore been practised in the intercourse of nations — a philanthropy which shall recognize not merely the distinction of strength and power between nations, but the duties of magnanimity, moderation and humanity — a philanthropy which shall not be content with sending armies or navies to compel, hut which shall send teachers to instruct, and establish schools on the American system, in which philosophy, politics and morals, as well as religious faith, are taught, with just regard to their influences in social and domestic life. Woosung.— U. S. Phi Procession. — Chi- cimi Prejudices a; from France. — CI V^00SU?1(/, Oe and morals. Wl tlic natural M'ay, of the nature of studying its surfi A great ocea Just at sunrise t larl)()ard bow, fir rolling their grea i'orked tails wavii shoal waters of tl give the Yellow We have croi arrived at Woosv below that city, landmark. Only June ; here the 1i out its mellownes Nagasaki. Are tinental shores^ CIIAPTEE lY. THE COAST OF CIIIXA. Woosung. — U. S. Ship Colorado. — SlianRlmi. — European "Concession?." — A Mand.uin Pioeession.— Chi-Tajen and Siin-Tajen. — Kiiropean and Chinese CiviHzation. — For- ciioi Prejudices against the Chinese. — Tlie Shan Tung.— The Yellow Sea.— The News from France.- Choi'-Foo, the Newport of China. — A Rough Voyage. ^Voosunc/, October 17th. — A respite from politics, philantliropj and morals. Why should wc not allow ourselves to see things in the natural way, not to say that there is little more to be learned of the nature of the millstone, by looking into it, than there is by studying its surtace ? A great ocean-sight was reserved for us on the Yellow Sea. Just at sunrise this morning, unnumbered whales appeared off the larl)oard bow, first throwing up glittering fountains of spray, then rolling their great, glossy, black backs upward, then with their huge forked tails waving adieu as they plunged under the waves. The shoal waters of the Chinese coast have the hue of the Missouri, and give the Yellow Sea its name. AVe have crossed the great estuary of the Ypng-tse-kiang, and arrived at Woosung, the outer haven of Shanghai, fourteen miles below that city. The country is on all sides a low plain, without landmark. Only three days ago, we left Japan, green as if it were June ; here the fields are dry and brown. We have October with- out its mellowness, and yet Shanghai is only one degree south of Xngasaki. Are islands always warmer and more genial than con- tinental shores? Did Sancho Panza understand this when he ? -^ I \ stipulated for land? Many Am^ anchor around native junks ai more high and in all carrying heads figured a decks. How j flag-ship Colorj veying the na^ hare no need t are all there. Admiral John else could have cheer Mr. Sew£ inspiring strain Shanghai, ( other Americai age, and broug Let no one, in China. Sha like an outpost our native shor all the other 1] bridge, these steamers, these that we have s( they call here > side of the Al "Concession." We have en an excursion of constraint wlii( due more to foa THE "CONCESSION" AT SlIANGnAI. lor 1 liiiiiiri' ililliilljl stipulated for an island instead of a government on the main- land ? Many American and European mereliant-sliips are riding at anchor around us, while the river near its banks is crowded with native junks and fishing-smacks, not to speak of a fleet of thirty or more high and awkward, lazy-looking, small Chinese sloops-of-war, in all carrying two hundred guns. They display at their mast- heads figured and ornamental yellow bunting enough to cover their decks. How pleasant it, is to us to recognize the United States flag-ship Colorado, sitting gracefully in the midst, as if calmly sur- veying the naval array ! We have counted her guns, though we have no need to count her stars and stripes — we know that they are all there. Our glasses have failed to discover our old friend Admiral John Rodgers, but we know that he must be there. Who else could have ordered that double line of seamen in dark blue to cheer Mr. Seward as we are passing, and that band to strike up the inspiring strains of " Hail Columbia ? " Shanghai, October l%th. — Consul-General Seward and a dozen other Americans, with kind consideration, took us from our anchor- age, and brought us by steam-yacht to the " Bund." Let no one, however, infer from this date that we have arrived in China. Shanghai, as we Lave thus far seen it, seems to us less like an outpost of the Central Flowery Kingdom, than a toAvn on our native shores. This hospitable mansion of Russell & Company, all the other houses, this quay, this street, all the streets, this bridge, these churches, these banking-houses, warehouses, and steamers, these carriages and horses, these men and women, all that we have seen on the river or on shore, are European ; for so they call here whatever is foreign, -whether it has come from one side of the Atlantic or from the other. This is, in short, the "Concession." We have enjoyed our first drive in the country, that is to s:iy, an excursion of six miles through the " Concession." Is the air of constraint Avhich the natives here wear in presence of foreigners due more to fear than to hate ? These contracted concessions, made r 1 J 4 I* 108 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. by the government to foreigners, remind one of " the liberties," so called, M'liicli were drawn round Jails in Europe and the United States before the abolition of imprisonment for debt. " You are safe within them ; we guarantee nothing outside of them." Neither party looks with pleasure on "the Concession." The foreigner wants it enlarged ; the native dislikes it altogether, AYhile writing these not very profound reflections, we were summoned to the great gate of " the Compound," to see for the first time a raandaiin procession. MANKAKIN PKOCESSIOy. It is the custom of a mandarin, when he moves abroad on social or official visits, to be attended by as many retainers as he has, or can hire. He proceeds, dressed in silken robes, in a sedan-chair, gilded maces am sible, but fiery : cians leads the ously, all beatir and deafenino; c double dignity ai of one. Falstat] the king's i^ress,' darins approache solves. We did they bowed low To our surprise, ^ Tajen, survivors ncse embassy wli took final leave o "Wot I look and wonderful ( they parted with eastern voyage ai liai on the very d navio-ation ! The pageant ] her. How absurc made the ambasj ahroad ! " Yes," deuce of the deca} tain their pride lo: Somehow it h of tlie dead attrac The peculiarity of locks, everywhere So far as wc havi CIII-TAJEN AND SU:^-TAJEN. 100 with a Gqiiare, glaring, scarlet canopy, borne by coolies, over his head. Fantastic groups go before and behind the chair, dressed in faded finery, carrying umbrellas of all forms and colors, huge gilded maces and staves, banners, flags, and pennons, incoinprelien- sible, but fiery red and ragged. A straggling company of musi- cians leads the procession, while others mingle Avith it promiscu- ously, all beating and banging on noisy gongs, clattering sticks, and deafening drums. The procession in the present case was of double dignity and importance : it conveyed two mandarins instead of one. Falstafi''8 " tattered prodigals," although he had ''misused tlie king's j^ress," were less grotesque. We thought that as the man- darins approached they appeared unbecomingly eager to show them- selves. We did them injustice. Leaning from their chair-windows they bowed low and gesticulated reverentially as they passed us. To our surprise, we recognized in their persons Chi-Tajen and Sun- Tajen, survivors of the late lamented Bnrlingame in the great Chi- nese embassy which visited the United States in 1808, and which took final leave of Mr. Seward at his residence in Auburn. "Wot I look at," said Samuel Weller, "is the hextraordinary and wonderful coincidence." Chi-Tajen and Sun-Tajen, since tliey parted with us, have spent two years in accomplishing their eastern voyage around the world, and they have reached Shang- hai on the very day we have arrived here in our western circum- navigation ! Tlie pageant passed quickly by, and we returned to oin* cham- ber. How absurd this exhibition had seemed ; how difierently it made the ambassadors appear here, from the show they made abroad ! " Yes," said Mr. Seward, " it is even so ; it is an evi- dence of the decay of the empire. States, like individual men, re- tain their pride long after they have lost the means to support it." Somehow it happens that, Avhcrever we go, the resting-places of the dead attract our attention before the homes of the living. The peculiarity of burial here is, that the tombs rise in great hil- locks, everywhere in the cultivated fields, and even in the gardens. So far as we have observed, the monuments arc few, cheap, and inclegant- f ] 110 JAPAN", CIIIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. Shanghai, October Idth. — Shanghai is immensely agitated con- cerning the recent massacre at Tien-Tsin. AVe find European vol- unteers, a hundred strong, drilling for defence against an appre- hended Chinese invasion of '' the Concession." Mrs. Seward, the consul general's Avife, has just presented those volunteers -svith a standard of colors. Everybody is astonished at Mr. Seward's rash- ness in going to Peking at the very moment they nnderstand that all the foreign legations there are coming to this port for protec- tion, under the guns ot their respective nations. Admiral Rodgers, with his staff, called upon Mr. Seward to-day. Although it is im- possible for the Colorado to ascend the Pci-ho to Tung-Chow, he considers it his duty to visit the capital personally, lie has ar- ranged to accompany ]^Tr. Seward there next week. Mrs. Warden, our hostess, last night had the entire foreign society of Shanghai at a ball, which, although given in honor of Mrs. Seward, the bride, had been postponed until our arrival. Gentlemen largely predominate in European Shanghai. The recent arrival of so many American ladies was deemed a social event. Our ladv-friends at home will be interested in knowiiii^ that all China furnishes not one mantua-mnker or milliner. The dresses for the ladies come on orders from Paris, London, or Xcw York. Native women have no need of European costumes. The work here of the seamstress and tailor is done exclusively by men. They come to your house and execute your commands quickly, patiently, and cheaply, and in doing so they faithfully copy every pattern you give them, and omit nothing. We arc inclined to think that the story of the American merchant Avho ordered a dozen pairs of yellow nankeen pantahxMis, and, sending as a ])at- tern a jxiir which had been torn and patched, received twelve pairs similarly patched in execution of his order, is not altogether an invention. The contrast between European and Chinese civilization was presented sharply to ns this morning in our ])assage from (»]n'ii Euro])ean Shanghai, with its ])oj)ulation of three thousand, to the native town of Shanghai, with its one hundred tlumsand inhabit- ants, shut up within a circular wall tw(}nty-live feet high, and two ■rfrl-IIIHj m '& f:i'»;i ■ IS ill ! ! ..i i, '< .■um m 'hi '' ih;ii! ' '\n m im i ''i!li 'mm nm 'i ! I'ljlillrii'l ,lM! The noil. to Cll II pit- Kiirs • an ^va^ »|ien ) the ial>it- 1 twu if) CO 0) o i "^1 ' J 112 JAPAN, CIIIXA, AND COCIIIX CHINA. and one-tliird miles in circumference. We do not tliink that any youth of our own day, however vigorous his arm, however strong the sling or heavy the pebble he might use, could reduce that wall, M-hich was built doubtless in the time of Kublai Khan, but M'o would not answer for its standing against such an arm or weapon as that which brought down the giant of the Philistines. The town was easily captured by the English in 181:3. When Ave had passed within the gates, and saw the narrow streets, and the crowded structures, built of the most combustible materials, we wondered what can be the Chinese idea in keeping up the wall, which, in case of conflagration, must render escape imj)ossiblc. Native Shanghai, like the foreign settlement, is built on an alluvial soil, and is insa- lubrious, though reclaimed many centuries ago. This city is the seat of an immense inland trade, in which tlie tropical j)roducts of Southern China, with the hardier ones of Central China, are ex- changed over the Yang-tse-kiang and the Imperial Canal for the tim- ber, cattle, cereals, wool, and other products of Northern China, Mon- golia, Mantchooria, and Russia. The annual exports of the town exceed in value the whole mineral production of the United States. It need not be said, therefore, that its merchants are shrewd, in- dustrious and prosperous. It is marvellous how they have crowded so small an area with warehouses, manufactories, shops, gardens, theatres, dwellings, and temples. All these are built on a scale so small and mean, that, though each structure proves adequate to its purjjose, it is only a miniature model or a toy. Nevertheless, the people of the town manifested much pride in showing us their con- tracted dwellings built or exquisitely ornamented M'ith cedar and other fragrant woods, their miniature lakes filled with dwarf moun- tains which sometimes rise to the enormous height of thirty feet, and which the Chinese imagination magnifies into a range of Him- alayas. We found there, besides tea-houses vastly finer than any in Japan, numerous guildhalls elaborately ornamented, in whicli boards and other associations of merchants and manufacturers daily congregate to discuss matters of trade, and such politics as they have. With all this, there is not one street accessible by car- riage of any kind. The visitor is even obliged to leave his sedan- chair at the ga six or eight fc are so ofi:ensiv cession " warns Contrary tc not the least en ners. All his ^ dence, if not a c of the Chinama avoids here by tinually present is probable that morals and ma out that result 1 But we eschi into it again. Shanghai, C Chinese processi visited Mr. Sev diplomatic laboi Mr. Burlingame aid they had ret and gratefully oi United States, his intention of insisted that he Chinese inn, in worthy or fit to " No, no, we wil Even when we ^ come to China, •1 visit. Now, si] abroad with wha It is a disapp( China and Chine A DISAPPOINTMENT. 113 chair at the gate, and make liis way through crowded lanes at mosft six or eight feet wide. Surface drainage is used, and the streets are so offensive and disgusting that every European in the " con- cession " warns the stranger against going there. Contrary to what we saw in Japan, the native Chinaman shows not the least emulation or imitation of Western customs and man- ners. All his ways manifest a spirit of self-assertion and indepen- dence, if not a contemptuous one. "We now comprehend the puzzle of the Chinaman in San Francisco. The scenes which the European avoids here by taking refuge within the "concession" are con- tinually present with him wherever he moves in San Francisco. It is probable that the contact will work an improvement in Chinese morals and manners there, sooner than the separation will bring out that result here. But we eschewed philosophy for to-day, and here we have tallen into it again. Shanghai, October 20^A. — A renewal to-day of yesterday's Chinese procession, but with a sequel. Chi-Tajen and Sun-Tajen visited Mr. Seward, and announced to him the success of their diplomatic labors in Europe, condoled with him on the death of Mr. Burlingame, thanked Mr. Seward over and over again for the aid they had received from him in their mission, and dwelt long and gratefully on the hospitalities which they had enjoyed in the United States. Mr. Seward inquired their lodgings, and expressed his intention of returning their visit. They thanked him, but insisted that he should not do so. They said, " We are living in a Cliinese inn, in the old city. Neither the tavern nor the city is worthy or fit to receive you." "When he persisted, they replied : "N^o, no, we will come to you here, but we are nnable to entertain. Even when we were with you at Auburn, and you promised to come to China, we thought how unworthy we were to receive such a visit. Now, since we have compared so much that we have seen abroad with what we are at home, wo know this better." It is a disappointment to us. "What we want to do is to study China and Chinese ways. This study is the last one that can be > ,-*■' t thh «« nut •.-» f'M «:" r 1 Z- 1 »- t * u 1 K 1 ( 1 114 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. made among the foreign population of Slianghai. In that circle, Chinese affairs are generally ignored. With the exception of un occasional philanthropic observer, they talk in that society chiefly of French defeats and German victories, of London fashions, Oxford boat-races, and American inferiority to Europeans in diplomatic and consular etiquette. If they talk at all of China, it is against the Burlingame Treaty, with asseverations that it is an utter absurdity to expect any good thing to come out of China, except through blockade and bombardment. Possibly, this is an exaggeration resulting from the massacre at Tien-Tsin, and represents the tran- sient rather than the settled opinion of the foreign population. Happily this distrust of the Chinese does not affect or disturb trade. A large part of the coasting-trade of China is in foreign hands, and is conducted chiefly by the Shanghai Steam-Navigation Company. That company has built wharves one thousand feet long, which are covered with warehouses, here called " go -downs.'' From these wharves the company dispatches eighteen coastwise steamers, an average of one per day. These are chiefly American- built, and they enter all the treaty ports of the empire. How miserable the prejudices to which wc have adverted seem to us, in view of the fa i, that this immense development of foreign naviga- tion and commerce is not only permitted by the Chinese Govern- ment, but is encouraged by it ! It seems the more unreasonable when we reflect that now, after more than twenty years of international intercourse, the United States have not one griev- ance against the Chinese Government imredressed, or one demand unsatisfied. It is pleasing to meet, here, " John Brown's soul marching on."' At Mrs, Warden's ball, a colored man named Butler was received on a footing with the other guests. This Mr. Butler, who is equally modest and intelligent, is a native of Washington, and Avas born a slave of Commodore Rodgers, the father of the present admiral. He is here superintendent of the "go-downs," and charged with the entire freighting business of the Shanghai Steam- Navigation Conpany, receiving for his services a salary of four thousand dollars. SteamsJiip ^ circumstanced { which, thougli We have left M last night, Mr. ' drove us to the superintendent illumination of this magnificen steamer which r dred and fifty fe state-rooms and on our rivers an sle^p last night i before allowed u At six this II c (lo.vn the river Colorado brouffl fifteen guns. Ui board the Shan of twenty-seven ] this gallant acces Yang-tse-kiang, on the Yellow S of the north. Taking up th overthrow of the of a provisional ^ Everybody at Orleans dynasty. He answers, '• I because the coun ON BOARD THE SIIAN TDNG. 115 SteamsJdj) Shan Tung^ October 2'2d. — " Situated as -we are and circumstanced as we are," it seems to us that we arc out on a picnic, which, though it threatens to be long, promises inuch of interest. AVe have left Mr. and Mrs. Ilandall at Shanghai. At eleven o'clock lust night, Mr. Warden, whom we have found as wise as he is kind, drove us to the " Bund," where we were received by the aforesaid giiperintendent Butler, who had set ship and shore ablaze with an illumination of Chinese lanterns in honor of Mr. Seward. With this magnificent display, we were brought on board this pretty steamer which remains still attached to the wharf. It is one hun- dred and fifty feet long and twenty -four feet across the beam ; its state-rooms and cabins are more spacious than those usually found on our rivers and lakes at home, and we enjoyed in them a sounder sle3p last night than the excitement and hilarity at Shanghai had before allowed us. At six this morning- "The ship was cheered, The harhor cleared, Merrily did we drop — " f r I do.vn the river to AVoosung, where a friendly summons from the Colorado brought us to, and Mr. Seward received her salute of fifteen guns. Under this friendly fire. Admiral Rodgers came on boarrl the Shan Tung with an attendance of seven oflicers, a guard of twenty-seven marines, and the brass band of his flag-ship. AVitli this gallant accession, we have crossed the bar at the mouth of the Yang-tse-kiang, here thirty miles wide, and are once more afloat on the Yellow Sea, bound for the now much-dreaded colder regions of the north. Taking up the Shanghai newspaper, we read the news of the overthrow of the Second Empire of France, and the estobllshment of a provisional government at Paris. Everybody asks Mr. Seward, "Will France now restore the Orleans dynasty, or will it be the elder branch of the Bourbons ? " He answers, '• I think France will henceforth ie "^ republic, not because the country is prepared for it, but because 1; has at last ( > H 116 JAPAN", CIIIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. both sufficiently tried and exploded monarchy and imperialism," " This," said one of our friends, " is a bold ])r(.»phec'y to make under the shadow of an empire which is iivo thousand years old, whiH the MOUTH OP THE VANO-TSE-KIANO. republic is only an experiment of one hundred years in America and in Switzerland." He replied : " The first Napoleon predicted that, within fifty years, Europe Avould either be Cossack or repub- lican. Monarchies and empires are of the past. The republic is the institution of the present and future." " By the deep, twenty -four fathoms." Deep water this, though the waves still glisten with the yellow sands of the great river. The ship rocks, and we rest. Yellow Sea, Latitude 34° 30', Sunday, October 2Sd. — Although we certainly did lose one whole day on shipboard on the Pacific, and although it seems to us that we waste much time on shore, we find nevertheless, on counting the weeks, and measuring the dis- tances, that we are moving rapidly. Only last Sunday, we entered the Yellow Sea from Japan. To-day, after a week of observation and festivity at Shanghai, we have made one-third of our long ON THE YELLOW SEA. 117 projected voyage to Tien-Tsin. Who can reckon on the seasons ? We came on board, prepared with furs and blankets, and shrinking with fear of tempests. Nevertheless, the heavens are smiling, and the Yellow Sea is smooth as Owasco Lake. The band, ])crhap8 because we arc travelling in the hemisphere of the heathen, has brought no sacred music. Happily, it has not forgotten its lessons from the opera. So wo were awakened and brought to the deck this morning by the " Dies Irce " chorus from " Faust." For even- ing we have stipulated for the prayer in " Der Freischutz." Al- though we have no missionaries on board, we have come to regard Sunday at sea as a day of rest, even more privileged and happy than at home. We have offered from the deck thanks for our own preservation as grateful, and prayers for friends at home, we trust, as fervent, as those which may be made there to-day, "for per- sons going to sea." We have just passed the mouth of the Iloang-ho — the Yellow Kiver — the second of the two great rivers of China. Steamer Shan Tung, October 24^A. — We rounded this morning the noble granite promontory Shan Tung, which is the most eastern landmark of China proper, and gives its name to one of the most extensive of the eighteen provinces which constitute the empire. It is the water-shed between the Gulf of Pe-chee-lee and the basin of the Yellow River. It is across the western end of this promontory that the Imperial Canal bears the exchanges of Southern and Central China with those of the metropolis and the ortlying prov- inces of Mantchooria and Mongolia. Besides some fishermen's huts on the beach, we saw only one structure on the promontory, a Buddhist temple. The whole coast of the promontory is held sacred in China as pertaining to the birthplace of Confucius. The appearance of a troop of soldiers winding down the moun- tain-side reminded us that the Tien-Tsin massacre has been followed by profound apprehensions of foreign war. A lonely, basaltic rock towers above the sea at the foot of the promontory — a monument that the land once came there, and that the wasting ocean has cut it off. But this monument, like all those erected by human hands, ^^ is not destinec flowing tlirong base of the proi The junk i All its timbers designed for a i and its awkwa: Ite?:. MM from all other s( On either side of asked a (Chinese pr(iui])tly replied, mjirkub'e coincid Alaska Indians never been a im CHINESE JUNKS. 119 is not destined to endure. It is already broken, and tlie sea is flowing through it. Fishing-smacks flock like gulls around the base of the promontory. The junk is an odd-looking aftair. It lies low in the water. All its timbers are quaintly carved, and it is painted as gayly as if designed for a regatta. Practically speaking, it is a double-ender, and its awkwardly-rigged and ill-shapen rudder distinguishes it - ' - .'% ^lt; 4 •1 CIIINEHK FISniMa-ajUACE. 4 > from all other sea-craft whicli have been built since Noah's ark. On either side of the bow there is never wanting a huge eye. We asked a Chinese seaman the significance of that ornament. lie promptly replied, " Junk no have eye, no can seel" It is a re- niiirkab'e coincidence that not only the boats but the houses of the Ahiska Iiulians are furnibhed with eyes. Althougii China has never been a maritiuie i)ower, and is not likely soon to become U 120 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. one, it has an internal na\Hlgation wliich has never been and never can be equalled elsewhere. Personal coincidences thicken. This morning, one of the marines communicated to Admiral Rodg3rs, through the offices of William Freeman, that he was not unknown to Mr. Seward. The admiral promptly instituted an inquiry, which resulted in the marine's coming to the quarter-deck, and being recognized there by Mr. Seward as a soldier who served on the escort which attended him through Alaska last year, and that his knowledge of Mr. Seward had begun in his having been put on guard at his house in "Washington, on ilie night of the President's assassination. Need we say that he was glad to renew his acquaintance with one who had been a defender on two such memorable occasions ? Steamer Shan Timg, October 26^A. — Bearing westward from Shan Tung, we after some hours entered the harbor of Chee-foo, nearly surrounded by hills. Thus far we have seen nothing sub- lime, nor even any thing picturesque in China. The northern shores are only more pleasing than those about Shanghai, because they are slightly elevated and slightly undulating. Naked and barren at this season, one might well mistake the region about Chee-foo for the California coast. The United States war-steamer Benicia saluted us as we entered the harbor, and her officers came on board. Chee-foo is one of the last-opened ports of China. The foreign settlement numbers only one hundred. The native population is variously estimated at twenty-five thousand to eighty thousand. The agent of the Steam- Navigation Company received us on a well-constructed stone wharf, and has entertained us in the kindest manner. We have made an excursion in chairs to an eminence that overlooks the town and harbor, and found there a ruin, but were unable to deter- mine whether the structure was a temple, an observatory, or a watch-tower. From its dilapidated walls wo counted two hundred vessels of all sorts and sizes anchored in the bay, although Chee-foo confines itself exclusively to the coast-trade. In this trade, pressed tea prepared for the Eussian market in the form of bricks, and scarcely more native grape c China, but no Descending beach. Chee-f of Cliina. The which was buil The gentlei and been furnig the beach. Th tanced by the c( to learn that th( gees, suitable fo We left Che. we " caught it." sand-colored. 1 ridges thirty or continually in tl; steamer rocked, friends who wen they counted tw another in sixt^ Lieutenant Whe waggery. But i made this solem nearly in articu Seward, with fee stanchions at th packed, wedged, Mr. Seward, " is of yours ? " " ]S usual gravity, ' " Captain," said this ndliiiir a cl captain, " she on of the Colorado' A STORM AT SEA. 121 scarcely more mitritious, is tlie chief article. A large and delicious native grape cultivated here is highly esteemed in all the cities of China, but no wine is made. Descending the hill, we enjoyed the walk on the smooth sand- beach. Chec-foo is a summer resort of foreigners — the Newport of China. The bungalows, however, are now vacant. One of them, which was built by a missionary, cost ten thousand dollars. The gentlemen of our party, having recovered their land-legs, and been furnished with stout native ponies, made a scrub-race on the beach. The admiral, " who carries weight for age," was dis- tanced by the con ^1-gencral. Our friends at home will be pleased to learn that the whole party furnished themselves here with pon- gees, suitable for wear in the tropics, at twenty-five cents a yard. We left Chee-foo at eight in the evening, and at eleven o'clock we " caught it." As we kept near the coast, the sea was shoal and sand-colored. A strong land-wind arose and blew the water into ridges thirty or forty feet high, and our course obliged us to travel continually in the trough. The wind increased to a gale, and the steamer rocked. How she did rock! Those two of our naval friends who were left in a condition to do any thing, declare that tlicy counted twenty-four rollings of the steamer from one side to another in sixty seconds. It must be confessed, however, that Lieutenant Wheeler and Mr. PlUsbury arc somewhat suspected of waggery. But it muct also be remembered that, at the time they made this solenm declaration, they supposed themselves to be very nearly in articulo mortis. Only the admiral kept his feet, Mr. Seward, with feet braced, being lashed in his chair to strong iron stanchions at the centre of the middle deck. The ladies were packed, wedged, and wadded in their berths. " Admiral," asked Mr. Seward, " is this rolling and tumbling a customary experience of yours ? " " No," answered the admiral with not less than his usual gravity, " this vessel has a motion entirely unknown to me." " Captain," said Mr. Seward to the master of the Shan Tung," is tills rolling a chronic habit of your ship ? " " No," replied the cai)tain, " she only practises it in the Gulf of Pe-chee-lee." Most of the Colorado's marines, and all the musicians except two, were 'it '4*1 31 122 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. helpless. Notliing that ■was loose remained in place; furniture, trunks, bngs, and boxes, bundles of pongee and baskets of Chee-foo grapes, went sliding and jamming and imnching, backward and forward, and every way, until our pretty dancing-room gave a heterogeneous clattering worse than a seance of the Davenport brothers. In all this noise, confusion, and danger, it may well be imagined there was no sleep at night, no breakfast in the morning, and no lunch at noon. The storm abated and the sea began to subside at three o'clock. At four, the good admiral required such of the musicians as were sound or convalescent, to play selections of Oifenbach, by way of enticing sea-sick passengers from their state-rooms. But even "La Belle Ilelene" and "La Grande Du- chesse " alike failed in this sad and trying emergency. There was neither talking, nor dining, nor wining, until we dropped anchor at nine o'clock in the open roadstead of Taku. Here in that road- stead we are now, waiting for the tide to carry us over the bar at the mouth of the Pei-ho River. There is little show of commerce about us. As yet we see no land, and only a dozen vessels, like our own, riding at anchor. We are having a first experience of cold. The mercury has fallen to 50°. Ten o'clock. — Wc have li- jd. The pilot has come on board. The musicians are p\'iying their notes, and we are writing up ours. We ho]ie that nie dance which we have left for that purpose will keep on till the tide changes. Mouth of the Pei-ho, of Rivers. — Cliii Tlic City of Tiei inals.— A Messer Pei-ho Rive morning, havin, draws twelve fe have come safeb native cities of Europe in Chinal selves to us. ll tied. Tiiough til have proved vel wliich prevent til hundred and fif| iwui make. Thj possible for us tliroiigh whicli y\ a population of more busy villad consists of thro business is the A deposited in larl cliannel is crow( CHAPTER V. UP THE PEI-HO RIVER. Mouth of the Pei-ho. — Chinese Forts. — American fJuns. — The Most Crooked nnd Moan of Rivers. — Chinese Dogs. — A Misunderstanding. — Captain Wang. — Our Flotilla. — Tlic City of Tien-Tsin. — A.^pect of the Country. — Our Boat Life. — Absence of Ani- mals. — A Messenger from Peking. — A Chinese Trcder. — Tung-Chow. Pei-ho li'iver, October 27th. — We passed the bar at three this morning, having only twelve feet water, while the Shan Tung draws twelve feet four inches. Thanks to the sandy bottom, we have come safely over. With the exception of our peeps into the native cities of Shanghai and Chee-foo, we have so far only seen Europe in China, N^ow China and the Chinese have opened them- selves to us. Taku is the outer port of Tien-Tsin, and is forti- fied. Though the works are not remarkable for construction, they liiive proved very eftective defences by reason of the marshes wliich prevent the near approach of an enemy. We counted one hundred and fifty guns in position, some of which are of Amer- ican make. The forts seem not strongly garrisoned. It was im- possible for us to ascertain whether the wide-spread settlements through which we passed after crossing the bar, and which contain a population of half a million, are one great city, or a hundred or more busy villages. But we learn that, statistically regarded, Taku consists of throe villages, Taku, Siku, and Sangku. A leading Inisincss is the trade in salt, which is made on the sea-shore, and <leposited in largo (piantities on the banks of the rivers. The cliannel is crowded with junks, while only one, two, or three for- r 1 t ■ 124 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. dign vessels ascend or descend it daily. We might well know that we have attained a higher latitude. The dwelling-houses here are built, not of wood, but of adobe walls, with chimneys ; the streets as narrow as those of old Shanghai. As we advance up the river, we can distinguish farms, with spacious and comfortable dwellings and out-buildings. The Pei-lio seems the most crooked and mean of all rivers. Only such a people as the Chinese could have made such a stream a channel of continental commerce. It is about as wide in most places as our steamer is long. It flows over alluvial sands ; the water is used for irrigating the flat plain. To us, who are novices here, the cultivation seems successful, and even marvel- lous ; nevertheless, we are informed that this is the most barren region of the empire. The cereals and vegetables are not diflPerent from those of New York and Pennsylvania, though more various. They have white, tulip-shaped cabbages, turnips of many kinds and sizes, peas, lentils, wheat, Indian-c<" i, oats, millet, beans, lettuce, and onions ; occasionally rice, potatoes, and sweet-potatoes. • Approaching Tien-Tsin, we find the old familiar obstruction of the "overslaugh" near Albany. The boat goes around every five minutes, and sometimes, at a bend in liie river, suddenly converts itself into a bridge. It is doubtful whether we shall reach Tieii- Tsin until another flood. To increase our discomfort, it began to rain at one o'clock at night, and it still pours, and the mercury in both thermoineter and barometer is falling. Tien-Tsin, October 2Sth. — Persevering all night, through all obstacles, we reached and grappled "the Bund" of the foreign set- tlement at noon. Here steam-navigation ends. Wc must sto]i and see what next. Tien-Tsin seems %vortliy to be the entrepot of foreign commerce, as it is at the head of inland navigation. To estimate its trade, one has but to look at the flags of all nations on the merchantmen and men-of-M'ar, in the crowded and contracted harbor. These flags were successively dipped and our own na- tional steamship, the Ashuelot, saluted us as we worked our way Lu the wharf. The French naval connnandcr and the British and Eussian consuls have already come on board with friendly greet- A MELANCHOLY NIGHT. 12c mgs The foreign settlement is small, but, contrasted witli the native suburbs, makes a very respectable appearance. October 'iSitli. — "We have had a jar in our party. AVith dismal, cold weather, and with muddy streets on the land, we necessarily remain on board. A Strauss waltz, suggestive of a dance, was struck up by the band after dinner, probably at the request of the younger officers at the foot of the table. Kenecting on the excitement produced at this moment, not orly in China, but throughout the world, by the recent massacre of Christians in this very place, Mr. Seward remon- strated against the festivity. The young people reluctantly acqui- esced, but they are consoled this morning by his admission that we had a noche triste. We have had a busy day. The gentlemen have secured a fleet of flat-bottomed sail-boats with crews, in all numbering one hun- dred men. All the party have been engaged in preparing stores and packing, intending <" > embark this evening. Meanwhile, Mr. Seward, with the admiral, has been entertained with an inspection of the Ashuelot. S«j»r-il «5i,.- '■• «*'■ if »:•;■■ =f. ten o. <-« K! r ^ 1 c ■1 «■■ I CmXESE DOOS, 126 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. Tlie foreigners in China have not forgotten, among the humani- ties, tlieir interest in the canine race. Dogs of every kind have come on board, as if appreciating the sympathies of civilization — the Newfoundland dog, the Australian hound, the Russian blood- hound, and the universal black-and-tan terrier ; but, far prettier than all those very familiar friends, arc a pair of spaniels, purely bred from Chinese stock, which have come in the staff of the Rus- sian consul-general. They are small, and of a pinkish-brown, without a black hair. There is a tradition that Charles I. received the progenitor of this race, in England, as a present from the Em- j>eror of China. It is that identical dog lying on the hearth-rug that Horace Walpole describes as a " plumy wreath." Ten o'clock at night. — " The best-laid schemes o' mice and men Gang aft aglee." The boats did not come to time. This afternoon a chair was provided for Mr. Seward, and a Mongolian pony for each one of the suite who chose. This animal, like our Canadian pony, has great strength and endurance. Supposing that the plan for the ex- cursion was fully understood by all, Mr. Seward went ashore and sat down in his chair, on "the Bund." At this moment, some one asked Mr. George F. Seward if he were going to ride. He an- swered, " No." On this, the inquirer informed Admiral Rodgcrs tliat Mr. Seward was engaged, and would not ride. The whole party at this moment galloped off, leaving Mr. Seward sitting in his chair, surrounded by his eight coolie bearers, not one of whom spake or understood a word of English, They waited for orders in Chinese, which, although Mr. Seward could give in English, there was no person to interpret. At the iirst turn in the road, the equestrians looked back for their chief. He was not there. Inquiry being made, the admiral answered that Mr. Seward was not coming out. This satisfied them for the time, but on further reflection a doubt arose whether he had so capriciously changed his purpose. So the whole party, under apprehen rescue. They fc pressing on wit] Wii&fanxjMs, wi tombs and nogle which stretches river. The wall French invasion. a glacis twenty f( sures, which imp that the work w( Ingh estimate of be, the glacis fur through the j^ara martello towers. The Chinese 1 know how to imp Attracted by masi plain to examine and overlooking i verted into a po' one. Miles arour Adieu, Shan your Teelierche di certs and balls, yo and your tuniblii Captain Ilawes? Hail to tliee, squadron, with tl tow-rope ! Hail, "V^iatever perils a least against a wal Shall we dcscr registered the vest dimensions, and, t one cabin, less tha THE PEI-IIO SQUADRON. 127 under apprehensions for his safety, returned on their track for a rescue. They found him at a distance of half a mile from tlie Bund, pressing on "witli liis eight coolies and a mounted guide. After this faux j)as, we passed over a broad plain covered with crumbling tombs and neglected graves, and then came to a high outer wall, which stretches across from the Chinese city to the bank of the river. The wall was erected during the last combined British and French invasion. It is an earthwork with a narrow, shallow moat, a glacis twenty feet wide, and a frail parapet with frequent embra- sures, which impart to it an ornamental effect. The admiral says that the work Avonld be of no use as a defence, but he has not a high estimate of Chinese military science. However that may bo, the glacis furnished us a delightful ride, with beautiful vistas, through the parapets, across the bastions and under the crowning martello towers. The Chinese know as well how to utilize their temples as vre know how to improve our churches for hospitals in time of war. Attracted by massive portals and high outer walls, we crossed the plain to examine a Buddhist temple, standing on a slight elevation and overlooking the river. AVe found it had been long ago con- verted into a powder-magazine. Certainly the place is a fitting one. Miles around it is one vast suburb of the dead. Adieu, Shan Tung, with your morning martial promenades, your recherche dinners, your quiet card-parties, your evening con- certs and balls, your rollings, your pitchings, and your groundings and your tumblings ! When shall we see another seaman like Captain Ilawes? Hail to thee, flat-bottomed boat number four of the Pei-ho squadron, with thy single main-sail, thy four poles, and thy one tow-rope ! Hail, Captain Wang, and your meek and patient four ! "Wliatever perils await us under your conduct, we are insured at least against a watery grave. Shall we describe the flotilla? The admiral has numbered and registered the vessels, one, two. three, up to fifteen. They vary in dimensions, and, though coarsely, are all stronglv built. Each has one cabin, less than five feet wide at tlic floor, and one raised bunk 128 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. beliind it for sleeping-room. It has cost some care to distribute among the boats a party so hirge and so very much mixed. Num- ber one leads. It bears the Stars and Stripes, and carries the United States consul-general, Mrs. Seward, and their Chinese ser- vants. Number two, without colors, bears the tM'o other ladicis ; and number three is the flag-ship of Admiral Rodgers, his secretary, and servants, and floats the national ensign taken from the Colorado. Number four, under a broader flag, carries Mr. Seward and tiiu BOATS ON THE PEI-HO MVEB. faithful Freeman. It is the largest ship in the fleet, thirty feet long, and twelve feet beam. Of the whole fleet, only number four has a stove, and this is borrowed from the Ashuelot. Its cabin, there- fore, is our writing-room. Wang tells us this boat is an inheritance from his father, and has been in constant use flfty-four years. Number five carries Mr. Middleton and Mr. Eodman ; numbers seven and eight, officers of the admiral's stafl"; number nine is the dining-room of the party ; numbers ten, eleven, twelve, thirteen, fourteen, and fl and baggage. Each boat 1 forward deck, m closed with upj and full of ere^ The boat has a cabin-door, on m upon a bamboo-i resort to poles, selves to the ban ing the towing-1: on the other en nessed, they dm coolies, and we and charges, six daylight, and nii: Our naval fri the party use the eacli other. The navy-rations, and AVe started a^ the shipping, on the foreign vessel save the Queen, anthems. The fi their flags, and was not doubtful Peking, at this j free from danger. The sorpentin cityofTlen-Tsin, mounted with w. densely inhabited is stated to us her estimate it at half THE CITY OF TIEN-TSIN". 129 fourteen, and fifteen, have on board, the band, the marines, stores, and bagfgagc. Each boat has its sunken cabin with a dark liohl under the forward deck, M'hich is occupied by the crew. The cabins are en- dosed witli upright slabs, removable at pleasure. They are old and full of crevices, and exclude neither the rain nor the cold. The boat has a single mast forward of the cabin and l)eforc the cabin-door, on which a small cotton sail is rigged with a single reef, upon a bamboo-spar. When the wind does not serve, the boatmen resort to polos. When they grow tired of this, they betake them- selves to the banks, which are neither paved nor graded. Attach- ing the towing-line to the top of the mast, they nniko a loose knot on the other end, and throw it over their shoulders. Thus har- nessed, they draw the boat up the stream. Each boat has four coolies, and we pay for the whole voyage, including all the costs and charges, six dollars a day for each boat, if we travel only by daylight, and nine dollars if we travel day and night. Our naval friends have a mess-boat of their own ; the rest of the party use the dining-room. Of course, these parties entertain each other. The musicians and the marines are supplied with their navy-rations, and the coolies take care of themselves. AVe started with a fair wind this morning, and, as we passed the shipping, our band made the acknowledgments we owed to the foreign vessels, by playing first " Hail Columbia," then " God save the Queen," the " Mfirseillaise," and all the other national anthems. The friendly ships and the consulates on shore lowered their flags, and gave us cheers and encouraging salutations. It was not doubtful that the gallant officers regarded our ascent to Peking, at this painful juncture, as an adventure not altogether free from danger. The serpentine voyage of three miles brought iis to the Chinese city of Tien-Tsin, enclosed within a stone-wall forty feet high, sur- mounted with watch-towers, and four miles in circuit. Suburbs, densely inhabited, crowd the river on both sides. The population is stated to us here at a million and a half. Travellers gen-jrally estimate it at half a million. "We may well accept the higher figure, (4 « ^% 130 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. for such a scene of crowded tliou<j;li silent activity wo never saw. Except tlie charred wallt4, broken towers, and sliattered battlements of the Ilonian ('ath<»lic cathedral and convent lately destroyed, there is not one massive or i)retenti(tns strnctnro. Narrow streets divide jiumotonous blocks of one story and two story bnildin<rs. Every small space is iilled with countless, moviiii? nuiltitudos. There is no ferry, but the bridi^e of boats is crowded M'ith a mass of men and boys such as " Fulton Ferry " presents on a holiday. Chinese boats choke the channel. We thought wo never should get through the town, but wo did. AVc saw an army of ten th(ju- sand men, iniantry and cavalry, enter the city as we passed tlio western gate. At a distance the array was imposing, but, as ^\c' iieared it, we discovered a woful lack of uniformity, as well in dress as in arms and equipments. The infantry arm varied from a wooden club of three feet long, to a matchlock with a seven-foot barrel ; the music thoroughly discordant, but the yellow banners were I'ro- quent, gay, and gorgeous. The march was as straggling and dis- orderly as the return of the troops from Bull Hun to AVashingtoii. It is notorious that, since the massacre, the Chinese have been gathering a large army at Tien-Tsin. Foreigners say it is a prep- aration for war ; Chinese official persons, on the contrary, assure us that it is a precaution against further outbreaks here. It is too early, however, for us to s])cak on this exciting topic. On the west side of Tien-Tsin, as on the east, the plain presents a vast aiul cheerless field of sepulture. Leaving this behind us, we come through cultivated fields, with vegetable-gardens hanging over the waters edge. Here wg are planting our stakes and tying u]) for the night, in such order as the admiral directs. lie has posted a guard around us. Ko one passes M'ithout giving the countersign, and each passing hour is called as the hushed night rolls on. It k cold, and we shrink into our cabins to meditate as we may on the strange scenes and men around us. Oil ills Pei-Jw, October 30th. — Thanks to our commissary who procured, and thanks to the generous friends at Tien-Tsin mIio lent us the blankets and furs, we have enjoyed a comfortable sleep AN ANCIENT PAVEMENT 131 ill our most uncomfortable of boats. Wu waked in a drizzling rain, the thermometer at 38°. In such an atmosphere, comfort is impossible without exercise, which can only be obtained by walk- iiii;' on the slippery clay banks of the river, for, althongh it is a canal, it has no towin<^-path. The Imperial Canal, the greatest work of that kind in the world, leaves the Pei-lio at Tien-Tsin, crosses the Yellow River, and debouches into the Yang-tse-kiang, l)ut it has lesser slack water and other contrivances, which extend the navigation to Canton. The Pei-ho liiver at Tien-Tsin is navi- gated eighty miles to Tung-Chow, the appointed terminus of our present voyage, which is fifteen miles distant from Peking. The country is level and monotonous, but more sterile as wo advance. Although the inhabitants are poor, they seem hardy, busy, and contented. There is no forest as far as the eye can reach, only a few poplars and willows, the natural products of an alluvial soil, kept as shade-trees. It is not easy to discover how the im- mense population procure the fuel necessary in so cold a climate. We bought coal, of an inferior quality, at a large price, at Tien- Tsin. Our coolies, in cooking, burn only dry stalks of Indian-corn. While puzzling ourselves over that problem, we discovered f!;reat rafts of timber which choke navigation. Where could this timber have come from ? Could it have come down the stream ? If up the stream, where was it shipped 'i On inquiry, we learn that it is brought across the Gulf of Pe-chee-lee, from the Corean Peninsula. Forbidding as the way and the weather are, we have walked this afternoon many miles. Our promenade was arrested by a marsh which compelled us to make a short cletoiw, and, at a distance of twenty rods from the bank of the river, we found, in the bed of the morass, a pavement forty feet wide and one hundred feet long, of square hewn granite blocks — the first ruin we have thus far seen in our journey. AVho laid that pavement ? When and for what purpose ? AVas it the bottom of an ancient canal ? There were no other traces of such a structure. Losing the pave- ment as it disappeared under the surface, we climbed a knoll fifty rods beyond, and found there a perfectly artistic granite wall, enclosing a large area within which no edifice remains. At one ^;:;:t t1 132 JAPAN, CIIIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. corner of tlie wall is an arched gateway half in ruins. Stumbling through this passage over broken bricks and stones, we entered the desolate 'jourt. Here we confronted a solid marble shaft, five feet wide and twenty feet high, standing upon the back of a huge tortoise of the same material, having the exact form and proportions of Xaturo, every line of the shell, body, and claws being executed with precision and skill. The middle of the shaft, on both sides, is covered with legends, w^ ile each border from top to bottom is crowded with mythical birds, serpents, and dragons, excpiisitely chiselled. AVe concluded that a temple had once stood here, and that the pavement below had served as the grand approach. Why had it been suti'ered to tall into ruin 'i Perhaps we may learn more as we go ou. October Z\st, Theri'ometer 48° Fahrenheit.- —'V^q have made half our voyage. A. range of mountains locms up before us in the west. What mountains? They must be the Altai range. AVc have described Mr. Seward's boat. Would not our friends at home like to know how nicely the ladies have iitted up theirs? It is not, indeed, as magnificent as Cleopatra's barge, but there is no Antony on the shores. Thoy l.^ivr a carpet of gray goat-skins, and with superfluous scarlet bl^'.nkeJs have extemporized a tapestry, which effectually covers the ci.inks, .nd excludes the wind. The dais, two feet high, M'hich servos for a bed, has a drapery of purple and gray rugs. Thr^ir dressing-table^ which is a portnumteau on eiul, is covered with a gay shawl, and a mirror four inches square, with a gilt-frame, borrowed from the Ashuelot, hangs above it. For Bofhs, they use trunks s]iread with a Avhite Thibetian fur great- coat, which ]\[r. Seward has kindly contributed. The access to this elegant saloon, M-hich is eight feet s<juare, is not particularly con- venient — an aperture in the front, two feet square, with a descent of three feet, without steps or ladder. In going in one stoops and steps backward; in coming out, one stix.ps, and is ]»ulled u]»\var(I. Our habit of travel is settled. The fleet moves, or is suj)posed to mo^-e, at dawn. We are served with hot tea and a biscuit, witli the thermometer somewhere between freczinir and -40°. AYe draw CHINESE AGRICULTURE. 133 water from the river, for the toilet, in preference to that which was frozen durinii; the niijht in our pitchers. We make ourselves warm 1)V a walk of two or three miles. In these walks, we stare and wonder at the uncouth ploughs, the awkward tanning-mills, and CIJINKSE A<iUI(i:LTURI!. other rude farming inii»lements, and the e(]uallj strange furin-houscs and dwellings which we ])ass. What seems straiiirer than any thing else is the ahsencc of domestic; animals. Horses, cows, and oxen, are indeed sometimes Been at the ])lough, hut generally the ground is worked with spade and hoe. iso wheeled vehicle, except rarely a cart, with a mean 10 ^7f^«M ti to i rl ' i I 134 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COOUIN CHINA. calash, drawn by a horse, a mule, or oxen, is seen. Forty sheep hero are a fortune. Mr. Bergh's sensibilities would be sorely tried if he could see the burdens and labors imposed on the ass. The hogs arc " black as the ace of spades," about as thin, and more scarce than pheasants. Sometimes we take one side of the river, and then cross to the other. Xot unfrequently, by the intervention of head- land and promontory, we lose sight of our little fleet, or, finding it in disorder, mistake number two for number four, or the admiral's flag for the consul-general's. Coming in from these walks, we gather round Mr. Seward's little stove, read or write, and talk over the alarms of the night and the incidents of the morning. AVe breakfast at eleven, and dine at five. Our stores are chiefly foreign. As we neither know how to procure nor how to prepare the Chinese food, the commissariat gives us coftee from Mocha, sausages from Bologna, biscuit and porter from England, peas from France, sar- dines from Italy, cheese from Chautauqua, butter from Goshen, ami oysters from Baltimore, with wines from all countries in the world, except China. Our boatmen, "heathen Cliinee" though they arc, have l)ecome devoted to us, and, when they see our long waiting for breakfast, they kindly ofter to share with us their little menu of Indian-corn bread, wheaten fritters, and cabbage-soup. After dinner, we are weary enough to sink into our hard bunks, and culd enough to draw over us our furs. The boats tie up very i>unctunlly at ten o'clock, and it is by no means safe or pleasant to clanibei over the decks from one to the other. Novemhev Isf. — The November which Ave have dreaded has met us here in China, just as it would probably have come down on us if we had remained at home. Its breath, often cold and clammy there, is no warmer or drier here. In four days we have had not one gleam of sunshine. We might well imagine ourselves on the St. Lawrence, so similar is the vegetation of this sandy ]ilaiii. One beautiful feature, however, of the St. Lawrence is missinir here. Instead of the gorgeous autumnal forest, we have only a few scattered leaves, and those pale-yellow or colorless. AVe have to- day added fifteen coolies to our marine. Mr. Sewar his crew quic tinguished thi notice that sto' dangerous luxi Tung-CJiou to say, a peric mounted mess the Eussian n gratulations. aware of our i taking hold up« haven durini; tl which the grea sun at last reler cheerful. The men and boys, tering wooden- blouses — all pai suggesting man tense curiosity As they peep ai boats, staring w and complexion They arc never the motive, the_ Every manner < cabbages, and ca of the customer ]iasteboard quiv from it instead longe each otlie l)n)wn bird, sin; seeming a recon to a gentle pure AT TUNG-CIIOW. 135 Mr. Seward's cabin has jnst taken fire, but Captain AVang and his crew quickly dropped their buckets into the river, and ex- tinguished the flame. Travellers who come after us may take notice that stoves on the Pei-ho are not only an expensive but a dangerous luxury. Tung-Chow, November 2d. — At a distance of six miles, that is to say, a period of four hours, before the end of our voyage, a mounted messenger, coming from the United States nunister and the Eussian minister at Peking, met us on the river with con- gratulations. In the middle of the dark, rainy night we became aware of our arrival at Tung-Chow by the noise of our tackle taking hold upon the bank. We saw nothing of this long-desired haven during the night, though the unintelligible jargon of a crowd which the great arrival attracted rendered sleep impossible. The sun at last relents. The scene this morning, though grotesque, is cheerful. The nocturnal crowd has swollen to a dense mass of men and boys, all wearing large, broad-brimmed straw hats clat- tering wooden-soled shoes, and thickly-padded and quilted blue blouses — all parts of the costume showing the efl'ects of wear, and suggesting many changes in past ownership. They manifest in- tense curiosity to learn the secret of our large and inqwsing flotilla. As they peep and peer through every aperture and crevice of our boats, staring with narrow, wondering eyes at our strange costume and complexion, our toilet has not been made without difticulty. They are nevertheli ^ quiet and respectful, and, whatever may bo the motive, they seem desirous to please, to serve, and to oblige. Every manner of small trafiic is going on among them. Bread, cal)bagos, and cakes, were sold or gambled for according to the taste of the customer. A " va2:rom"-lookincr fellow flourishes a painted pasteboard quiver, and turns it u])side down, and chopsticks fall from it instead of arrows. Condjative sparrows and canaries chal- lenge each other through their cages, and a boy carries a ])rctty brown bird, smaller than the oriole or the mocking-bird, and which, seeming a reconciled cai)tive, sings sweetly out a merry invitation to a gentle purchaser. < 1 » ;| r ' 4 ■■J *' a '■■ 1 I • i u 136 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCfllN CHINA. The Pei-ho forms a basin thirty or forty yards wide, wlnqh is here crowded with little junks or boats, most of which are used for dwellings. The town stands on a terrace which rises gently from the river. There is no dock, wharf, or storehouse, on the bank be- tween the river and the terrace. The uncovered sewage of the city has worn the sloping bank into channels, and between these chan- nels are promiscuous deposits of merchandise and heaps of compost, all alike prepared for shipping. The houses on the terrace are low, but many of them have quite large courts. Their fronts are covered with fanciful sign-boards. At a bend of the river before us rises a lofty pagoda of seven stories ; the first structure of is form which we have seen. We wonder that it is not more extensively copied in the West, and especially why it is not adopted in place of our unshapely and cheerless light-house. The name ixigoda is in common use, but dagoha is in use also. A distinction is made, however. AVlien the structure is small, and is enclosed in an area with a temple, it is called dagoba. On the other hand, when it stands by iisolf, itj design is for ornament more than use ; it is then called pagoda. A learned Chinese authority tells us tl.at every structure of the kind, whether pagoda or dagoba, contains relies of some saint or martyr. Say what men may, there is a power in gilded epaulets and buttons. Our naval friends, strong in that power, opened an easy way for us through the inquisitive multitude ; but, in climbing the slimy bank of the terrace, we encountered an obstacle which neither gold lace nor buttons could displace. This was a caravan of thirty laden camels, in single file, as they always move, just beginniny- their long journey over the steppes of Russia to Moscow. The imperturbable beasts, tliickly covered with long, scraggy hair, trod firmly but slowly with their spreading, padded feet, lleaching a terrace, we were as yet only in a suburb. After many eflbrts, wo were obliged to give up the exploration. Every street is a dcc|i. broad gutter, now rendered impassable by mud and rain. We re- turned to tbc front, and contented ourselves with looking into llie dwellings and shops. The occupants wore neatly dressed, seemed intelligent, came out of their doors, and saluted us, tenderiiitf their hands ar us, with a po! dered by dwc we are from ti hanging on tl of the globe. Moscow, and IS with sugar crj cigarettes. Tl numerating bal all neatly and spectable assist us his pretty i " chin-cliinned ' then read on h is at once one ( the sale of teas i dining-room on Every thing has and sedan-caair array on the bai Americans, besi( ants. Captain \ on low donkeys cavalry display, uur chairs for Pc A POLITE CHINESE. 137 their hands and inviting ns to enter. One, quite distingue, bowed us, with a politeness that was Irresistible, into a wide cpurt, bor- dered by dwellings and shops. He indicated a knowledge that we are from the West by pointing to a Russian chart of Europe, hanging on the wall. On this we made a rough Mercator sketch of the globe. lie at once marked on it the sites Tung-Chow, Moscow, and New York. He served delicious tea, quickly prepared, with sugar crystallized into rock-candy to sweeten it, and Russian cigarettes. Then he showed us his money-scales, strings of cash, numerating balls^ bills of exchange, receipts, and books of account, all neatly and carefully arranged. He called in his tidy and re- spectable assistants and clerks, and with special ^Jde introduced to us his pretty son and heir of six years. "VVe were bowed and " chin-chinned " by our host with his whole family and retinue, and then read on his sign-board inscriptions which told that the place is at once one of entertainment for travellers, and an agency for the sale of teas in the Russian trade. We breakfasted in ou? naval (lining-room on the river at eight. It is now eleven o'clock. Every thing has been brought ashore, and has been packed in carts and sedan-cnairs. Ponies, nmles, and donkeys, stand in formal array on the bank, for the whole party, which numbers forty-seven Americans, besides Chinese servants, drivers, waiters, and attend- ants. Captain Tilden, on horseback, and his tall marines mounted on low donkeys, make, it must be confessed, a rather ludicrous cavalry display, but perhaps not ineffective for China. We take our chairs for Peking. 1.1 r I:.:'* CHAPTER YI. ARRIVAL AT PEKING. Passing tlirough Tung-Chow. — Good Behavior of the People. — The Road to Peking. — A Dangerous Highway. — Daniel Webster and Jolin Adams. — A Review of Our Party. — A Grotesque Procession. — The Eastern Gate of Peking. — The Separation of the Party. — Anxiety for Mr. Seward. — In Woful Plight. — An Explanation. — Arrival at the U. S. Legation. PeTcing, Novemher 3d. — The Government at Peking, apprised of Mr. Seward's coming, had sent forward two intelligent mandarins to attend him to the capital. These officers at Tung-Chow sent up a messenger to report the array and progress of the partj, in order that arrangements might be made for its safe and proper entrance into the city. "What could be more gratifying lo our national and perfonal pride than the prospect, thus opened to us, of a kind and dis- tinguished reception ? We took our way up the shelving levee, hut without a road or path. We went a long distance down and across the ditches, which teemed with noxious vapors arising from the vegetable merchandise and offal of the city. At length our man- darins brought us up from the river's edge into bustling lanes, varying from five to twelve feet wide. The population gathered to see a procession so unique, and probably to them imposinir. After a full half-mile, we descended into a broad ditch, filled with water reekingly offensive — a treacherous path for pedestrians, but Chinese chair-bearers, like Chinese beasts, are sure footed. AVe passed through an arch, under a high wall, which stands on tlie bank of a moat ing the city ii inner side of tl than eighty th( getting throng] the gates and i low, cheap, an experience, ho people betrayet to the Chinese understood Mr his white hair, we do not kno\ him, as he pass( ing from the fa] distant, some sa road, built threi wide, and tweni inundation. T blocks four or fi These blocks W( clamps, so as to elements have 1 that it cannot b( with comfort an through the san this dangerous "Admiral R side by side on Mr. Webster wi '' Mr. Webster st iug, ]\[r. Adams a very old house landlord does nd " this road give I have seen in ( ADAMS AND WEBSTER. i;39 bank of a moat. We should have thought that wc were now leav- ing the city instead of entering it, if the ditch had been on the inner side of the wall. The city contains within the walls not less than eighty thousand inhabitants. Hours must have been spent in getting through it, had not a military or municipal force met us at the gates and cleared the way. The streets were lanes, the houses low, cheap, and closely crowded together, as at Tien-Tsin. Our experience, however, in passing, was particularly pleasing. The people betrayed nothing of the hate and jealousy which arc ascribed to the Chinese by the Europeans in the open ports. "Whether they understood Mr. Seward's public character, or were impressed by his white hair, white Thibetian great-coat, and black Thibetian cap, we do not know, but the entire population, young and old, saluted him, as he passed, with unmistakable signs of veneration. Emerg- ing from the farther gate, we came on the direct road to Peking, distant, some say, twenty-five miles, others say twelve miles. This road, built three hundred years ago, is an embankment forty feet ■wide, and twenty feet above the plain, which is always subject to inundation. The whole width has been paved with hewn granite blocks four or five feet long, two feet wide, and eight inches thick. These blocks were originally jointed closely and fastened with iron clamps, so as to leave no crevice or unevenness of surface, but the elements have long since deranged and disloeated the pavement, so that it cannot be travelled now either by wheeled vehicles or animals with comfort and safety. The horsemen and tarts prefer to flounder tlu'ough the sands and mud of the plains below, rather than to try this dangerous highway. "Admiral Rodgers," said Mr. Seward, as they kept their chairs side bv side on this road, " did vou ever hear of the interview of Mr. AVebster with John Adams, the day before his death ? " " N"o." " Mr, Webster said to the old statesman, ' How do you do, this morn- ing, ]\[r. Adams?' 'Not very Avell,' he replied; 'I am living in a very old house, Mr. Webster, and, from all that I can learn, the landlord does not intend to repair.' " So," continued ]\rr. Seward, " this road gives mo a more painful impression than any thing else I have seen in China — it shows that the Government has no inten- »•; Wi % I 1 140 JAPAN, CIIINxV, AND COCHIN CHINA. tioii to repair." The road might be restored as perfectly as before, simply by reversing the blocks, and bringing them together face downward. A clear field now allowed us to take a review and cen- Bus of our party. The advance-guard consisted of twelve Chinese infantry. They wore metallic caps in the shape of Mambrino's helmet, torn by the hand of Don Quixote from the head of the caitiff barber ; the caps fastened by long, yellow tassels. Their uniform consisted of blue nankeen trousers and tunics, on the back of which was a white circular groimd, bearing the inscription in large, black Chinese characters, " Valor." Next came, or, rather, tried to come, a guard of twelve United States marines on foot, but the nimble-footed chair-bearers crowded so closely on them that the entire body took refuge in the rear. Kext followed the four chairs of Mr. Seward, the admiral, and the ladies, M'itli a mounted esc(jrt composed of the gentlemen of the party, civil and military. Then the musicians and seamen mounted promiscuously on horses, mules, and donkeys. The sailors found it equally difficult to keep their seats on tlu; ponies, and their feet above-ground, when riding tlio donkeys. We could not count the baggage-carts, which, under tlio care of AVilliam Freeman, and the protection of a guard f marines, brought up the rear. Having prudently determined not to shock the sensibility of the Chinese by any display of banners or musical instruments, we came along quietly without accident or incident, until, at a distance of a few miles from Peking, we rose upon the fine arch ?d bridge of Palikao, where the battle memorable iu the M-ar of the rJlies against China was fought, and in which the lately-dismlsocd "VVar Minister of France gained his title. Here the native guard halted and ranged themselves at the side of our cortege., presented arms, and, taking respectful leave of Mr, Seward, returned to Tung-Ch av. When we had passed the bridge, the sedan-chair occupants, as well as the horsemen, wore seized with a mutual desire for change. The success of either party was not brilliant. The chair-riders, victims of misplaced confidence, tumbled over the heads of the donkeys, and the cruppers of the mules ; the mounted party spilled out of the chairs. The country through which wo passed shows A CniNESE FU^TERAL. 141 less a neglect of cultivation than a dilapidation of estates. Half- way on the road, we met a grotesque procession. First, came a band of thirty or forty boys, dressed in scarlet and yellow^ whom we might have mistaken for clowns, bearing staves with fantastic badges of authority. Next, a band of musicians, displaying equal luxury of color, banged and drummed on instruments unlike any thing we had ever seen. Then came an enormous eatafulque, pagoda-shaped, mounted on wheels whose axles just escaped the ground, the exterior covered with scarbt clotli, richly trinmied with gold lace. Within was an elaborately-carved coffin. The vehicle was rolled forward on the rough road by eighty bare-legged coolies. The rank of the dead determines the number of such bearers. Preceding the car was a mournfully-dressed, sad-looking little woman, holding up before her a large, painted wooden doll. This figure represents the wife of the deceased, and is to be buried in the grave with him, as her proxy. The procession showed to us more courtesy than funeral-processions ever show at home — it opened and halted to allow the chairs to pass. At last, after five hours' tedious and painful travel from Tung- Chow, we obtained a full view of the great Eastern Gate of Peking, rising above monotonous suburbs, not unlike those of Timg-Chow. Here the pathway on the plain below the embankment was a smooth, dry sand. How could Miss Seward resist the temptation to exchange her chair for a fine Arabian horse, which Mr. Low, the ITnited States minister, had sent down, and so make the entry into the Chinese capital in a suitable manner ? The ride was exhila- rating, and perhaps excited the envy of the less fortunate members of the party. She was attended by two friends, one gentleman on horseback and anoth'-i* on a donkey. The procession reached the suburbs in tolerable order, but here the amusement of the journey ended, and its difficulties and sorrows began. The worn- out paved road, instead of keeping high and dry on the embank- ment, sank fifteen feet below the level of the streets. It had been raining continuously in Peking for three weeks, and the sunken road-bed was covered with mud knee-deep. Villanous Chinese carts, going both ways, crowded the entire path, obliging not only m>. >« » t1 142 JAPAN, CIIIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. the eliiiirs, but the equestrians and pedestrians of tlie party, horses, mules, donkeys, and all, to pick and find their way on the broken, shelving, furi'owed, crowded and every way obstructed bank, be- tween the houses and the road-bed. We do not know how nor where the little mounted party last mentioned fell under the guidance of a mute Chinaman on a strouij, fast horse. Pointing, however, to his red cap, either as a mark for them to follow, or as a badge of his authority, he hastened them forward and onward. Only for a short time they saw theii* friends in the chairs coming on, but falling more and more behind. They passed under the great Eastern Gate, too much terrified to study its architecture. They turned into a narrow lane, then by a zigzaf* movement into anotlior, at times crossing broader streets whicii were obstructed with carts, booths, merchandise, and theatres; then again into lanes, dark, deserted, and ruinous. If any one can conceive an obstruction not described, it may be brought into tliis picture. Now they climbed steep, slippery embankments, dashing and splashing against stone posts, sign-boards, and booths, scatter- ing angry passengers, then pitching into nauseous, muddy pits. They not only lost all idea of courses and distances, but also lost sight of our whole column, and were effectually lost by them. It required intense and watchful effort to keep the saddle. Wliat could all this mean ? "Was the mute Chinese guide a decoy, lead- ing into an ambush? "What could be the motive in brino-inj; a stranger and a woman there ? If not a decoy, why were they led by a course so blind and tortuous ? AVhy were they separated from Mr. Seward and our gallant defenders? Perplexed with anxiety for themselves, and even greater anxiety for Mr. Seward and his friends, they halted and beckoned to the red-capped conductor for a parley. Mr. Middleton rode back as nearly as he could over the way he had come, in search of "our absent friends." He rejoined them after a period which seemed an age, and reported that Mr. Seward, nor the admiral, nor man nor woman, nor beast nor baggage, nor any other thing belonging to the party, could be found. Meantime crowds, which their imagination swelled to the entire population of the city, gathared around them in that woful plight. Well might tlicy be " in w tion," for, as i and their case was not one v cliecring or ei The mute siffi than this. On are remembere a train of loadt ing at Tung-Cl ward, nor give They grazed ali a wonder how i foot. The oth( temple, which, high above an ings, only variec as it seemed, de now only anxio cicerone, far in the notes of the mounted compa turned a high v spacious open c thirty-seven star tude was even e Miss Ilisley aire he described it, rated from them at once lost all guide except tl Ticn-T.sin, and a veycd by a route by tiie other por and dangerous other times, ac A DISAGUEEAHLE RIDE. 143 they be " in wonder at their case, and be perplexed at their condi- tion," for, as the Arab historian says, "their state was woiiderfn], and their case was extraordinary." Among all these crowds there was not one woman, nor was there a man or boy, who gave one cheering or enconraging or sympathizing word, glance, or sign. The mnte signed to move on. Manifestly, any phice was safer than this. Only two subsequent incidents of that distracted ride are remembered : the first, that in a narrow street they encountered ft train of loaded camels as long as that we had seen in the morn- ing at Tung-Chow. These would move neither forward nor back- ward, nor give room on the right or on the left to let them pass. Tiicy grazed alternately the walls and the beasts, and it is even now a wonder how they escaped being dismounted and trodden under foot. The other incident was a momentary glimpse of a stately temple, which, with blue porcelain roof and gilded dome, towered high above an unbroken expanse of low^, mean, and vulgar dwell- ings, only varied by intervening heaps of ruins. They then plunged, as it seemed, deeper than before into miry pits and squalid masses, now only anxious not to lose sight of the red cap of the mysterious cicerone, fiir in advance, and at the same time listening to catch the notes of the tinkling bells for reassurance that their donkey- mounted companion was not lost. At last, and all at once, they turned a high wall, and entered through a substantial gate-way a spacious open court, over which was waving the constellation of thirty-seven stars and its thirteen red-and-wliite stripes. Their grati- tude was even greater than their surprise at finding Mr. Sew-ard and Miss Risley already at the legation. Ilis adventurous journey, as he described it, had been even more poi-plcxing than theirs. Sepa- rated from them and from the rest of the party, he, like them, had at once lost all knowledge of both, not knowing that he had any cuide except the two mandarins who had accompanied us from Tion-Tsin, and who now trod along side of his chair, as he was con- veyed by a route entirely d liferent from those which had been taken by the other portions of the party, and equally narrow, obstructed, and dangerous. At times, he jostled against camel-caravans ; at other times, against motley, hurrying crowds; now crossing a i t ti 144 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COrillX CHINA. muddy moat, then scaling the slippery <;lac'is of a t'ro\vnin<; bastion, he oceasioually had a glimpse of the admiral's chair, or Miss Kis- ley's, or of u mounted uuiriue or musician, but these invarial)]y crossed his track, or were going in an opposite direction, lie had his thoughts and his anxieties, lie now said he could never f(jr- give the admiral, or the naval otMcers, or the consul-general, who had suii'ered our carefully-organized and well-armed procession to be broken into fragments, and scattered through the lanes, alleys, and ditches of the semi-barbarian citv. While we were exchanginir these explanations, the remaining fragments of the party, civilians, officers, nuirines, and baggage, not forgetting trusty Freeman, more frightened than all, came so rapidly with their chairs, horses, mides, and donkeys, into the court-yard, that the arrival seemed almost simultaneous, as it certainly was of one accord. We soon found out, but not without much inquiry, how it had come to pass that our entrance into the capital, conirary to our ex- pectation, was so irregular and disorderly. The Chinese Govern- ment is at this moment profoundly anxious to prevent a renewal of the popular commotions which have recently culminated in the tragedy of Tien-Tsin. They had been informed, by the messenger whom the mandarins dispatched from Tung-Chow, of the construc- tion and organization of our party. They had stipulated with Mr. Low that our band should not ]>lay along the road, or in the streets of Peking. They had, moreover, cautiously sent forward a com,pc- tcnt number of mounted guides, wearing red caps, with instruc- tions to break up our formidable procession at the Eastern Gate, and to conduct each portion by a different route through the most quiet and obscure parts of the city, to meet only at the legation. Mr. Seward now declined, with many thanks, the invitation of the Eussian minister, received before he left home, and we became guests of Mr. Low, who, with true Californian hospitality, would allow no member of the party to find a home outside of the lega- tion. Wearied by the tedious boat-journey from Tien-Tsin, and the fatigues and anxieties of our grand entry into the Chinese capi- tal, we unanimously waived the wassail, wine, and music, oftered us at the legation, and retired to an early rest. Asiiect of Peking. — \ ican Chinese, — '. 'J'lie Britisli Legi Sen aril's Aiulien A Cliinese Mansi Pel'ing, I^oi for table dwell in < long secretary a was occui)icd by it would have be it for the United nor any other pi economically bui After the re need say little o is about one m streets are broa( of highest activi St motions, alwa^ giisting. There exception of an Many of the na stone posts, set preventing intru CnAPTEK YII. RESIDENCE LV PEKLVG. Asjicct of Peking;. — Walk on the Wnll. — The Foreif;!! Population of Peking. — Two Anier- iciin Ciiineso. — Native Wares. — The Foreiji;n Ministers. —The Russian Minister.— The British Legation. — Influence of the I'uited States. — The Hall of Seienee. — Mr. Seward's Audience with the Imperial Cabinet. — A Ladies' Day. — Chinese Ladies. — A Chinese Mansion. Pehing, Novemher Mh. — The legation is the spacious and com- fortable dwelling which was built by the eminent Dr. AVilliams, so long secretary and interpreter, and not unfreqiiently cJiarge. It was occupied by Mr. Burlingame, and Mr. Seward now agrees that it would have been wise, when it was practicable, to have purchased it for the United States Government. There neither is in Peking, nor any other place, a building so suitable, nor could one be more economically built. After the relation of our experience in entering the city, we need say little of the general aspect of Peking. Tlie population is about one million. Differing from other Chinese cities, its streets are broad enough, but dilapidation and ruin mar the scenes of highest activity, while the roadways are everywhere full of ob- structions, always ill-looking, and sometimes nauseous and dis- gusting. There are no sidewalks — seldom a pavement. AVitli the exception of an occasional private lantern, there are no lights. Many of the narrow streets are rendered impassable by upright stone posts, set irregularly in the street for the very purpose of preventing intrusion or passage. Except in the imperial grounds, it' 3t tl 14G JAPAN, ClIIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. there arc no gardens and no fountains, statues, or other monuments — only compact masses of dwellings aud shops, low, old, and mean. The weather is cold, damp, and dark. A visit from General Vlangally has been the incident of the day. The prevailing agita- tion resulting from the Tici:-Tsin massacre is the chief subject of conversation. Mr. "Warden, at Shanghai, and Mr. Low and Di\ "Williams, here, appear to be almost the only persons in China who take a rational and statesmanlike view of the political situation. " We must take a walk to see the city," says Mr. Seward. '' There is no walk in the city," answers General Vlangally, "except on the city wall." " Very well," replies Mr. Seward, " then let us walk on the city wall." PeMng^ November 4, 1870. — So here we are — on the city wall — not the outer wall, nor yet the innermost wall, but on an interior wall which divides the city of the Tartar conquerors from the Chi- nese city, and at the same time looks over the innermost wall which encloses the city where the emperor resides, which is therefore called the " saci'ed " city. "We have reached this commanding eminence just at the hour when the morning sun is lighting up the snow- clad mountains which bound the vallev of the Pei-ho in the M'est. It is cold, out, with furs elsewhere superfluous, and exercise quite unusual, we can bear it. The legation, where we reside, opens on the bank of the now dry moat, Mliich lies at the foot of the wall. The wall is thirty feet high. AVe have walked several miles on this elevation, looking down from the parapets on the scene around us, and have wondered at the numerous gates, all lofty, nuissive, and graiul ; have counted the thousand towers, bastions, aud ram- parts ; surveyed the walls of the outer and inner cities ; have con- tem]ilated their watch-towers, garrisons, and arsenals ; and have shrunk back from an estimate of the numl)er of the gilded ])ala(cs and tem])les. It avc remember, wo recorded yesterday, before coming ui> liitlier, that Peking is a most unsightly and wretcliod city. It seems to us now, although walled cities are uufamiliiir to our ex])erience, that Peking is the onlf city, we have ever seen, euliiciently majestic to be a seat of empire. u a. u u h (J) u 1^ 148 JAPAN, CIIIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. True, these walls, built six liundred years ago, have failed to protect Peking against the allied forces of Great Britain and France, and they are confessedly useless for a defence in the mod- ern system of warfare. But, like all the castellated and ecclesiasti- cal structures of the middle ages, they are sublime and impressive. True, even outer walls cramp the growth of cities, while interior partitions and subdivisions must have an unwholesome effect and be otherwise intolerable. But the castellated walls of the middle ages are none the less imposing for all this. The walls of Peking address themselves no longer to the reason, but to the imagina- tion. Xo Chinaman, unless in military or civil employ, and no Chinese woman under any circumstances, is allowed to go upon the walls. Why do a people so jealous allow foreigners this privilege ? It is allowed because they insist upon it. Could there be a stronger evidence that China wearies and gives way before tlie ever-increasing importunity and exaction of the "Western nations^ "We now recall the fact that it was stated by Mr. Burlingame, nt Auburn, that this concession was first made to himself and Sir Frederick Bruce. Unhappily, a closer inspection of the wall and its accessories enables us to see that much of its impressive effect is derived from artistic imposture. Arsenals, capacious enough for the ordnance of the Washington Navy- Yard, contain only a few awkwardly- mounted guns. Painted cannons in the embrasures are substituted fur real guns. In China the national flag is never seen singly. There are always double flag-staffs. Each gate-way has a rampart to ]M'e- vent the direct approach of an enemy. The wall is an eartlicii embankment twcnty-flve feet tiiick at the base, the outer flue coverc(l with large, hard, gray bricks, easily mistaken for hewn stone. During the day the gates are wide open, and there is im indiscriminate c(»mmingling of the populations of the Tartar .iiid the Cliinese cities, undistinguisliable at least by strangois. \vt BiU'h is the power of habitual jealousy that the gates are ]ior('ni])- torily and absolutely closed from sunset until sunrise. A deiii/i'ii of one city left in the other at the closing must remain until nii»ni- FOREIGN POPULATION" OF PEKING. 149 ing. We look down easily into the interior city, the residence of the emperor, and thcr2tbre "the Prohibited." Its gates, like the others, are open during the day, but they are carefully guarded, and none but the privileged residents are allowed to enter, except by special order. The palaces bear no resemblance in form or structure to the royal dwellings of the West. They are spacious, and, being covered with yellow tiled roofs, and elsewhere showing a commingling of light yellow and green, they have an appearance of newness or recent repair which is in strong contrast with the outer city. The " Prohibited City " is divided by a wall into two areas. In one of these the emperor resides with his family, while the other is open to the ministers of state. AVe may have an opportunity to look more closely into this latter area. The brick facing of all these walls is giving Avay. The culverta under them, besides many parts of the fortitications, are dilapi- date J, and the moat is either altogether dry or only partially filled with stagnant pools. We have come down from the walls. "What is the foreign population of Peking? Pid you say five thousand? Two thou- sand ? One thousand ? It is only two hundred — diplomatic min- isters, clerks, attaches and retainers, and missionary ministers, all told. Mr. Seward has held an audience of the whole to-day. Each legation occupies a closed area, a "compound" assigned by the Government for that purpose. Only a narrow lane divides the legation of the United States from that of Russia. Two Chinese were announced this morning. Thev came in very costly native attire, shaven, wearing the pig-tail, and their feet cased in white-soled mandarin boots. To our surprise, they accosted Mr. Seward in English, calling his recollection to an acciuaintan.'o with him in the State Department at Washington. Surprised at this, he excitedly asked, how and where they had learned the English language so well. "Is it possible," they answered, " that yon mistake us for Chinese ? "We are your own 'jountrymen, aiul yon saw us in service when you visited Fort Corcoran on Arlington Heights." These two ufticers have with great adruitness been engaged by an American mercantile house in 11 i 150 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. Cliina to acquire the mandarin languai^e, to enable them to act as ao^ents in trade. On arrivinj^ at Peking for that purpose, they 'ssumed the Chinese habit, and, abandoning for the time all foreign Bociety, they coniined themselves exclusively to Chinese inns and Chinese society. They say they have done this with so much success that they have never been detected by the natives, except when surprised in making their toilet. The natives they meet with often say that their Chinese is imperfect, but they suppose it to be a dialect of Thibet or some distant province of the empire. Of course, we must not disclose their names. Our band of music, having been released from its durance, has played for every foreign minister, who came to visit us, the na- tional air of his own country. It has cheered us at lunch, and awakened the echoes at the elegant dinner given us at the Eussian legation, and it ended by giving the spirited dancing-music for the soiree with which the day has closed. It is the first foreign band of music that has ever come in time of peace to Peking. The nov- eltv attracts native crowds, but excites no ill tcmner. Pcl'lng, l^ovemher t^ih. — Deep concern this morning nt finding the earth covered with snow, seeming to demand an early depart- ure southward. The morning was s]icnt in studying and cheapen- ing the M'arcs brought by native mer- chants, and spread over all the floors of the legation — bronzes, porcelain, jasper, jade, amethysts, and emeralds, wrought into the most curious shapes — sea-otter, sable, Thibet ian goat, As- trakhan, wolf, white fox, red fox, bear, panther, and tiger skins. Wc shall not report our bargnins, further than that we bought a lapis-lazuli cat for two dollars, lor which the merchant's first price was twenty-five dollars, and llint. Mr. Seward retired in disgust from the trade when his otlcr of five dollars was taken up for a lignum-vitn? box, for which the vendor had all day demanded fifty dollars. As far as the furs arc con- cerned, our friends at home, to whom we send the purcliases, will LAriB-tAZULI CAT. judge. Let tl staple vegetabL of Peking, If the continent. It is remar favored perfect manufacture of brought into usi of woollen fabi among the poor and quilted. Sii The class a litt with the wool oi dresses in fur — t lu's robes of sabi Alaska. The 1 largest purchaser N'ovcmher 1)1 political rather worked out her( at Veddo. It lirofligate retair. is generally und tlie world. V,\ Ali'airs at any ca Would express it, Mi\ Seward hav iiiairic ri„rr read! 1^'king is rather ; is ffoi/en. Dkstin a <liscrect, modest exercise very coi "•hile he enjoys tl CHINESE GARMENTS. 151 judge. Let this detail serve as an instruction that, as tea is the staple vegetable production in China, so furs are the great import of Peking. Ij is the central market for the northern regions of the continent. It is remarkable that, while the ancient civilization of China llivored perfection in the use of the loom and the needle in the manufacture of silk, cotton, and embroidery, it seems not to have brought into use either the loom or the needle in the manufacture of woollen fabrics. The want of woollen clothes in the winter, among the poorer classes, is supplied by cotton and silk, wadded and (quilted. Such garments admit of no washing and little change. The class a little higher clothe themselves in dried sheep-skins with the wool on ; but every person, who can aiford the luxury, dresses in fur — the richer the person, the more eicgant and costly his robes of sable. Siberia sends her furs to Peking, and so does Alaska. The Tartars and Russians, after the Chinese, arc the largest purchasers. Xorcmher hih. — Peking wears everywhere the aspect of a jiolltical rather th n a connnerclal capital. Jievolutlon has not worked out here any such political, social, or military changes as at Veddo. It is the residence of idle, prolitlcss, perhaps ofteu jtrotligate retair.ers of the Government. Kiwcmher Gt/i. — A coiTcspondence much more intimate than is generally understood exists between the several cabinets of the world. By internaiional usage, the Minister of Foreign Att'airs at any capital is the Iiead, or, as our nibernlan friends would express it, the "head centre" of the diplomatic body there. Mr. Seward having occupied that position at Washington, the iiiau;u' ring readily opens to him, wherever we go. The circle at Poking is rather a contracted one just now. The Russian minister is <hi/eii. Distinguished by military service in the Crimea, ho is a discreet, modest, and intelligent ir -ntleman, and is understood to exercise very considerable influence over the Chinese cabinet, while he enjoys the respect and contidencc of his colleagues. The «-5 152 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. Eussian legation has a s2>aeious, costly, and elegant residence, and an imposing 'personnel. Besides four secretaries and a surgeon, it maintains a Greek chapel, open to native converts, and a Cossack guard, with extensive stables. The German legation has nioro moderate appointments. The minister, IJaron Rehfues, is respected for his largo ex])erience. The British representative, Sir Iluthcr- ford Alcock, is absent. His place is tilled by Mr. AVade, against whom there is a universal outcry, among the foreigners in China, for his supposed tameness in regard to the matter of the Tien- Tsin catastrophe. lie is, nevertheless, a wise, learned, ])rudcnt, and practical minister. Mrs. AVade, a daughter of Sir John llcr- schel, is very intellectual, liberal in her opinions, and earnest, in her admiration of American institutions. During the social banishment she has endured here, she has successfully acqniicd the ditScult mandarin dialect. The British Government is lavish toward its legation. The residence was purchased at large expense from one of the imperial princes, and repaired last year at a cost of one hundred and twenty-live thousand dollars. The legation maintains a chapel, fom* secretaries, six di[)lomatic puj)ils, nnd a strong military guard. The French legation has Count Rochcfort acting as charge iTqf aires. Far less discreet than our cxceHcnt friend Berthemy, or his predecessor, De Montholon, who M-ere so acceptable in the United States, Itochefort has proved himself vehement, impetuous, impracticable, and inconstant in his reclama- tions on the occasion of the massacre of the French consul and nuns at Tien-Tsin, while the military disasters which have just overtaken France at home have rendered her representative here powerless. The Danish and Belgian missions arc oidy occasional, and little more than nominal. Their incumbents are accredited to Japan as well 'is to China. The Dane took leave of ns at Yeddo, to repair to Peking before us, but has not yet arrived. Mr. Low, the United States minister, is a very able man, of much equa- nimity, enjoying e([ually the coniidencc of the Chinese Govern- ment and that of the diplomatic corps. The appointments of this legation, like those of the United States elsewhere, arc moderate. Frederick the Great hardly practised greater parsimony in forcigu diplomacy than chapel, nor sur^ secretary, who ii in Japan, we he of our national tinually of Russi ascendency at 1 ated. The arch during his reside than anv or all of this prestige. Mr. Yan Valkenl surpassed in cons tivcs in Japan, in cither country arcs of local adm Ih-itain. There : fnm the prestige They appear in just and magnani fairness in politic! demand no advaii powers. Russia, China, but a colo^ existing between of the border prj tion. Moreover,! her railroads, dill that, while the frf thelcss prove a pc The proGiige the European Coj the influence sluj Hults. This com I factnrcs whi(di ar^ Great Britain, tin THE FOREIGN MINISTERS. 153 (Ul)lomacy than our Government does. Mr. Low has neither chapel, nor surgeon, nor official dwelling-house. lie has one secretary, who is also his interpreter, and no guards. TIere, as in Japan, we hear our countrymen lament an alleged inferiority of our national importance and influence. They complain con- tinually of Russian ascendency at Peking, as they do of Britisli ascendency at Yeddo. The grievance in each case is exaccer- ated. The archives at Washington show that Mr. Burlingame, (luring his residence here, exerted a greater influence in China than any or all of his colleagues. Xor has Mr. Low lost any of this prestige. So also Mr. Townsend Harris, Mr. Pruyn, and Mr. Van Valkenburgh, as well as Mr. De Long, have not been surpassed in consideration and usefulness by foreign representa- tives in Japan. Nevertheless, the influence of the United States in cither country is far less distinguishable in the shaping of meas- ures of local administration than that of Ilussia or that of Great Britain. There is sufficient reason for this, without deroeatinff fr^ni the prestige of the United States^ They are a distinct nation. Tlicy appear in China, as they do in Japan, in the character of a just and magnanimoup. power. They oft'er little but equality and fairness in political, commercial, and social intercourse, and they (Icinand no advantages that are not equally conceded to all other powers. Russia, on the contrary, is not only a near neighbor of China, but a colossal one. The commercial and political relations existing between them are various and intimate. The populations of the border provinces of the two empires have a close assimila- tion. Moreover, Russia advances nearer to China every day with her railroads, diligence-lines, and telegraph. The Chinese know tliat, while the friendship of Russia is invaluable, she may never- theless prove a powerful, if not fatal enemy. The presiige of Great P)ritain throughout the world, even on the European Continent, is derived chiefly from the ^dominion and the influence she wields in the East, and the commerce which re- sults. This commerce, again, is the essential support of the manu- factures which are the basis of the prosperity of the English peojile. (ireat Britain, therefore, wisely spares no care and no cost in main- r ■■■■% k ^ 1 1 154 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCIilN CHINA. INTE taiuinu^ not only a diplomatic force, but a naval prcdominanco, in the East. India, China, and Japan, are her proper theatre. In this great national policy she necessarily encounters rivalry and resistance. She has appeared in China more than once as an enemy, and proved her power, as well to destroy as to protect and save. It suits her interest to be here now as a magnanimous friend, like the United States. Long may the two nations remain in that accord ! November 1th. — "We have just come from a visit to the for- lorn "Hall of Sciei '«." T!;e Church of Rome has been perso- ANOIKNT OBSERVATORY, Oil HALL OF SniBNOB. verinf? in its attempts to Christianize China, but lias left tlioro, thus far, only monuments of its failure. One of them is the Ob- servatory, otherwise enllod the "Hall of Science.' The jjroat Protestant Reformation in Euro]ie was, as every one knows, fol- lowed by a hardly less remarkable reaction and revival of tlio Roman Catholic Church originating in the inspiration of Ignatius Lovola, and coi founded. In : of the Tartar ci superintendence They procured i nomical instruir suggested, and c These instrumei out any protect years, are still One of them i the constcllatior astronomy as it astrolabe, an ar and quadrants, which attended the Jesuits, here tlicy were dismi care of native pi base of the Obs the two or three rcct the cnlenda for the almanac marriages, barg; Novemlcr 8 given to ]\Ir. Cabinet (Yanioi izc, arrange anc " none but tlic mandarins dose are allowed to suits their com color indicative I lodgers, the T their seats in g INTERVIEW WITH THE CHINESE CABINET. 155 Loyola, and conducted chiefly by the Society of Jesus which ho founded. In 1080, the Emperor Kan-^-IIi erected on the wall of the Tartar city an observatory, conunittin^ its construction and superintendence to Jesuit professors, with a niuniticent endowment. They procured in Paris, Venice, Genoa, and London, bronze astro- nomical instruments, the most perfect that science had at that time suggested, and of stupendous magnitude and niagniticent execution. These instruments, set up in the open air, and thus exposed with- out any protection against the weather one hundred and ninety years, are still in perfect condition, and as available as at lirst. One of them is a celestial globe, seven feet in diameter, with the constellations raised upon it, showing the exact condition of astronomy as it stood two centuries ago. Besides this, there are an astrolabe, an armillary sphere, trigonometers, transit instruments, and quadrants. Although the institution remains, the circumstances which attended its foundation have entirely passed away. AV^hej. the Jesuits, here as in Japan, betrayed the ambition of the Churc^^, they were dismissed and banished. The institution fell under the care of native professors, by whom it has been neglected. At thr base of the Observatory is a shabby suite of apartments, iu ^ iiich the two or three native professors dwell, whose business it is to cor- rect the calendar of the seasons astronomically, while they designate for the almanac the days which are lucky and unlucky for births, marriages, bargains, journeys, combats, festivals, and funerals. K 3 Novemler Sf/i. — The event of the day has been an audience given to Mr. Seward, M'ith Admiral Eodgers, by the Imperial Cabinet (Yamcn). It required great skill and much care to organ- ize, arrange and m.ount the party. If, among the AVestern nations, *' none but the brave deserve the fair," so, in China, none but great mandarins deserve to ride in chairs, and only princes and ministers are allowed to ride in green chairs ; and this, not because green suits their conq)lexi<m the best, but because green in China is the C(tlor indicative of preeminent rank. So Mr. Seward, Admiral Itodgers, the United States minister, and the consul-general, took their seats in green chairs, while the stati' and others were mounted I 156 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. on ponies, so far as the capital furnished a supply. The " balance," as our campaign-speakers say, went in carts. The progress was on the avenue — not Pennsylvania Avenue by any means, but tlic avenue without show of pavement, which leads from the Imperial city, through the Tartar city to its outer wall. It was obstructed with auctions, theatrical entertainments, gambling-rings, and every thing else. The head of the procession, consisting of the green chairs, -winding its Avay among these obstructions by the vigor and adroitness of the bearers, reached its destination, and alighted at ihe porch of the foreign office. It is a low Chinese structure ; the doors, wide open, revealed the Yamcn arranged in a row within to receive the guests. But the head of the procession, discovering that the tail had fiillon oi\\ decided to wait outside, until the lost member shoidd reconnect. This made a delay of twenty minutes, Avhich, as we suppose, was imperfectly explained to the ministers within, who made an unmistalcable demonstration of impatience. Perceiving this, the head entered, leaving the caudal part to come up to time as it could. In the middle of the room stood a table of the common European height, eight feet long and three feet wide. Broad and comfortable stools were placed around it ; there was no carpet or other furniture, but a hind of divan or sofa against two sides of the wall. Mv. Seward and his chief associates of the green chairs were graciously received by five chief ministers of state, all of grave aspect, and two of them of advanced age. They M'cre richly dressed in silks, over which were spread ermine and other furs. They saluted their guests at first in the Chinese foshion, by bowing with hands brought palm to palm on their breasts ; after this they shook hands in the American way. All the ministers then busied themselves in a somewhat demonstrative way in seat- ing their guests. Two of the Chinese ministers took their seats at the upper end of the table, in the order, not of their rank, but of seniority. They placed Mr. Seward at the side of the table on the left, then Mr. Low, then the admiral, and then the consul-general ; next two interpreters. The remaining members of the cabinet completed the circle. The table M'as thickly spread with china dishes filled with hon-hons and dried fruits. The ])residing min- INTERVIEW WITH THE CHINESE CABINET. 157 istcr then rose and announced that his Imperial Highness Prince Knng, regent of the empire during the minority of the emperor, li:ul hcen suddenly attacked this morning by a violent illness, on his return from the imperial palace, lie lamented his iailure to t PKINCE KCKO. meet Mr. Seward, as he had appointed, and had charged the cabi- net to receive him with this apology, or to postpone the audience to a future occasion, as Mr. Seward himself might prefer. The minister said he Avas charged bv Prince Kung to sav that he re- irarded it as a great distinction that he was to become acquainted with Mr. Seward, and that the prince intended in any case, as soon as he should recover his health, to visit Mr. Seward at his residence. Although Mr. Seward accepted the ajiology without distrust or hesitation, yet all the members of the cabinet earnestly rci'nforced it. Mr. Seward then inquired nbout the health of "VVan-Siang, who was absent. The presiding minister replied that Wan-Siang was ill, and had just obtained leave of absence from his post in the ministry for a year, to mourn the dcaf'i of his mother. But they instantly dispatched a courier to him, communicating Mr. Seward's inquiries. The courier, in less than half an hour, brouglit a mes- 158 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. INI saire of tlianks and fricndsliin from Wan-Sian.ijj. Later "Mr. Sowanl spoke of the ability which Wan-Siaii<>- had disphiyed in his negotia- tions with the United States, and of the fricndshij) he had ahvavs manifested toward onr country. These words, like Mr. Seward's previous inquiries, were taken down and reported to Wan-Siaui^ by a courier, and elicited a similar reply. Thu ministers 8[)oke witli much fcelinij of the death of Mr, JJurlingamc. Mr. Seward said that Mr. Uurlingame's diplomatic career was an illustration of tlio higliest possible success. A minister lives always under two dis- tinct and sometimes irrcconcilablo obligations : First, ho must retain the confidence of his own country ; secondly, be must not fail to win the confidence of the country to which he is accredited. Mr. Burlingame filled botli obligations, and thus was enabled to unite the two nations in a new bond of peace, and in a common ell'ort to advance civilization. Tlio ministers thought themselvos under obligations to Mr. Seward ; in the first instance, for the a])- pointmcnt of ^Mr. IJu'-lingamc as United States minister to Chin;), and then for receiving him us minister of China to the United States and Europe. Mr. Seward iiupiired the number and functions of the " I'annor- men." The ministers reidied : " They are four distinct legions, con- taining many thousand men. They all reside at Peking. Tlioy are sworn to maintain and defend the emperor in all conflii'ts, whether at home or abroad, and in compensation for this service they all receive stipends from the Government. Ihit tl)o organiza- tion of the legions is worn out. The service is a sinecure, costly, and useless." Manifestly tlie ministers feared that the apologies for the absence of Prince Kung from the reception might be thought by Mr. Sew- ard insincere and evasive, for they returned to the subject contin- ually, lie assured them that, although he had during eight years conducted the diplomatic, relations of the United States with China, yet in all that time not one case of procrastimition or subterfuge, on the ])art of the regent, had occurred. Mr. Seward hoped for the prince's speedy recovery, and begged the ministers to be at their case about the present disappointment. The sonioi dressed Mr. S( solemn stage Ml". Seward's i national proce entered the <ra at once the ( gathered there upon the jiorc lamatlons wen which our friei stood to be, " 1 too, but where could not disco guests all four, ccive the tail, a important extn biutons, its bin benches aromM, minister renew around him, sai statesman here. live to reach seventy-five, an age. This answei tiic Chin-jso ca sitcly courteouf brought in, filb Then followed birds'-nest sou] of bamboo boi many kinds, fis known. These liniulred and fif bits oil tiny pla INTERVIKW WITH THE CHINESE CABINET. 160 The senior ministoi" then, in a most reverential manner, ad- dressed Mr. Seward, "What is your venerable ageT' Just at this solemn stage of the audience, when all were silently waiting for j\Ir. Seward's reply, what should appear but the tail of our great national procession! Slowly eliminating itself from the street, it entered the gate, crossed the court, and appeared at the door. All iit once the (jueued sub-otficials of the foreign oilicc, who had gathered there to be witnesses of the interesting ceremony, rushed upon the porch to discover the cause of the interru})tion. Proc- lamations were then made in Chinese by the ministers within, which our friends outside, not waiting tor an interpretation, under- stood to be, " Make way for the tail ! " Way was made, and ipiichly too, but where the amazed native lookers-on went to, our friends could not discover. The Chinese ministers all five, the American guests all four, and the interpreters twain, rose to their feet to re- ceive the tail, and remained in that respectful attitude until that iini)ortant extremity had extended itself with its gilt epaulets and buttons, its blue and black coats, and white gloves, on the row of benches around the room. Oi-der being restored, the ])reriiding niiuistcr renewed the suspended incpiiry. Mr. Seward, looking around him, said : " I think I am neither the oldest nor the youngest statesman here. I am sixty-nine. I hope that the youngest may live to reach your own honorable age, which I understand to bo seventy-five, and that all may be blessed with years beyond that age. ?? This answer of Mr. Seward was received with great hilarity by the Chinese cabinet, and unanimously pronounced to be so exqui- sitely courteous as to deserve a bumper. Thereupon glasses were brought in, filled with a hot, strong drink, which they called wine. Then followed a slow and measured succession of delicate viands, hirds'-nest soup, pigeons'-eggs, cabbages nunced, and tender shoots of bandjoo boiled, pheasants, grouse, and stewed wild-ducks of many kinds, fishes, slui ks'-fins and other luxuries with names un- known. These dishes, in the whole numbering not less than one hundred and fifty, were severally served to each guest in the smallest bits on tiny plates, which at last crowded aud encumbered the table. ^ 3 160 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. These plates were filled by the ministers from tureens, wliicli eon- tinnally replaced each other. Each visitor was provided with knife and fork, as well as chop-sticks. It is etiquette here for each person to help every other person at the table to every course that conies on. Occasionally, Mr. Seward raised a political question of some sort, but the ministers adroitly passed it by. AVhether they were unwilling to speak freely in the absence of the regent, or whether they feared to expose themselves before the crowded Chinese audi- ence, Avliicii had a«;ai;i gathered in the apartment, Mr. Seward could not determine. AVe leani that all the ofHces of the Government are filled or suspected of being filled with ei)ies. It was soon manifest that little was to be learned of Chinese afi'airs at this magnificent entertainment. The ministers, with evident self-satis- faction, entertained their guests with familiar Chinese proverbs, epigrams, and riddles, and they resolutely persisted in accepting as clever every thing said by Afr. Seward, or either of the other gue&ts, however commonplace it might be. Two of the ministers are poets; they rehearsed their own verses and other Chinese poetry, with marked emphasis and at great length. Neither of the inter- preters, however, could render these verses into intelligible English. But the guests received the rehearsal as fine, nevertheless. One of tiie ministers said : " Mr. Seward, your complexion is very fresh and your step vigorous. You must have a secret, which en- ables you to preserve them through such great labors and travels." "You are complimentary," answered ]\[r. Seward; "what health and strength I have are duo to activity and exorcise." To this one of the poetical ministers resjionded : " Yes, every thing in the universe is constantly active; only the (^reator of all is at rest." Mr. Seward now began to understand that this reception was intended Icps as an audience than as a feast, and that drinking dee]t, or at lear<t often, is here a requirement of such an entertainment. The ministers descanted bolh in prose and poetry, with proverbs and eju'grams, on the virtue of hospitality, and the excellence of ('(mviviality. They drank deep and filled Uj) often. Addressing Admiral Iu)clgers, one of the two Anacrcons insisted nOSPITALITY OF THE MINISTERS. 161 that tlic best proof of friendship that one can give at an entertain- ment is, to get drunk. All his associates facetiously concurred. Aduiiral Rodgers answered : '' I accept the generous sentiment, and I invite all the members of the cabinet to get as drunk as possible, and as quickly as they can." The cabinet showed its appreciation of the admiral's repartee by vehement laughter and much gesticulation. At least, one of them took the gallant admiral at his word, and drank much deeper than before. The hospitality of the ministers was not monopolized by the head of the procession. Dainty dishes and strong drinks were served to the tail as it lay stretched along the benches. They were discussed with entire satisfaction, but in respectful though wonder- ing silence. After a sitting of four hours, Mr. Seward, to Avhom the right helonged, brought the entertainment to an end by proposing to Ills august entertainers: '"Perpetual peace, prosperity, and welfare to (yhina." The ministers deliberated, considtcd, and then asked leave to amend by adding the words, "and the United States." Mr. Seward acccipted the amendment with a further amend- ment, which brought the sentiment into this form, satisfactory to all the i>arty : "■Perpetual peace, prosperity and welfare to China and the Fnitcd States, the oldest and the youngest of empires. The visitors rose, and, after the most respectful and cordial bow- ing and hand-shah ing, were dismissed. The procession reached the legation at a very late hour. We have not heard whether it stood any more firmly on the order of its coming, than it did on the "order of its going," as the gentlemen had no time to report be- fore sitting d»nvn to Mr. Low's dinner, the great diplonuitic enter- tainment of the season. Kovonlci' dth. — Three months today from Auburn. Xot a word yet from home. ]\[r. Seward has sent a telegram by courier one hundred and eighty miles to Kiakhta, on the liussian frontier, 102 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. there to be put on the Russian wires. How much more have we seen and learned, in these three months of foreii>n travel, than we could have seen and learned within the same period of travel at home ! A messenger has come to the legation with compliments to Mr. Seward, and a polite inquiry whether his reception yester- day was agreeable to him. They desired him to know that they never unbent themselves so much to a stranger as they did to him on that occasion. This has been especially a ladies' day. Yang-Fang, pawnbroker by ])rofession, mandarin by rank, one of the three richest num in Peking, was cdncated at Shanghai, where he had some opportnni- ties of seeing the Wistcrn mode of life, lie is dcsirons of cnlti- vating the ac(|uaintancc of foreigners here so far as he can do m» withont exciting Chinese suspicion of his loyalty. Jle tenderctl ;in invitation to the three ladies to visit his familv. The invitiitioii was communicated confidentially, and with tlu; condition that tiny should be attended by only two gentlemen, neither ol" whom should be an oflicial person. The ladies went nt ono o'clock to-day, in THE LADIES VISIT YANG-FANG'S WIFE. 1G3 (losely-covcrcd chairs, tlirongh familiar streets, until tliey turned into a narrow and uninvitini;; one. There they stopped at the ijatc of an outisido wall, one of many gates of the same kind. Thi-ough this gate they were ushered into a paved court. Ascending three or four steps, they entered a second gate. The mandarin received tlicm there with his wife and five handmaidens who wore waiting, and led them through a corridor. This ceremony over, the wife led the party to lier boudoir. This room is furnished with a curious combination of luirojjean and Chinese styles. A Brussels carpet, ^ \ Hit 'P'"- : ^ ;.:• " ,/ t' | Wire OP TANO-FANO. (FROM A fllOTOOBAlMI DY HIMSELF.) •m 3 1 lialf a dozen mirrors of difTerent sizes, with gilt frames, ])ictnrcs of flic V(»semite valley, a French dock, a barometer, a small Ameri- can sewing-machine with a crank, two chairs covered with red clotli, Chinese divans, a French bcdsteiKJ with curtains, French kiiick-knacks, but no Chinese ones, rows of porcelain vases, and [Kits filled with chrysanthemums, an juiuarium with gold-tish, a black cat, six finely-bred spaniels, and a monkey, made the comple- ment of this singidar apartment. The visitors, taking seats on the Knrojiean sofas, and the Chinese ladies on the divans, excliangccl cciupljmcnts as well us they could, the American ladies trying to ? 1 164 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. recall tlie instructions tliey had received from CIii-Tajcn at Auburn Next the Chinese ladies took tho watches, gold chains, bruc; u'^«!, uud foreigr ring.^, and inspected them carel'idly. At the same time fi\( V ]>at into tlie hands of their visitors their own ornamenl.-, jH'aj'ls, emeralds, sapphires, rubies, and amethysts. After this the ladies of the house examined the American hulies' dresses, hats, and gloves, marking well the fashion and material, and in a gentle and unaffected way ofiered to inspection their own richer and more elegant costumes of silk and embroidery. The wife is a <lelicatc- looking woman of forty. She wore a lavender-colored, embroid- ered crepe petticoat, over this a do\ible tunic of two pretty shades of blue silk, trimmed with a variegated chintz border, scarlet satin endjroidcred under-sleeves, so long as nearly to conceal the slender hands — the nails, as long as the nngers, polished and stained to rc;- semble tortoise-shell, each nail having for its protection a wrought gold case. Her coarse, black jMongolian hair, carefully dressed and fastened with gold pins, was partly covered with a black-satiii LONO NAILS. cap, tied at the back. This ca]t, not nnlilcc in shape to the "Mary Stuart," was entirely seeded Midi pearls, rubies, emeralds, ami sa])))hircs, many of them, especially the ])earls, large, and of i-aiv value. Her feet, of which only occasional glimpses could be IkhI, were not more than three inches long, and were tightly encascil I' scarlet-satin shoos; her face and neck, literally ])lastered witli ]H;i!rl-whito, \:\ shocking contrast with eyelids and cheeks painted ])ink, and lips red ; her manners and speech are unmistakably ivlined ; she is i;:iiidinaid.,.- w •dit, showed t] liaiidsome, dress^ or had small feei women have. ' ;K-credited tcj th mothers ratlier I mutual insj)eetio or? were n(>xt coi apartment, the g a e(»vered table, i caned Chinese lit' chemical, phu of European mai tirst the English uliich has the exi k'ss variety and and one of the w others busied tlu entertainment, m ladies, with theii iiiadt" of Turkish silver ])i{)es. Tin liliiwn out of the visitoi's ti'ied to ii nothing, hut iaui ('ndeav(»red to a( .-poke to them as mandarin imj)i-i Kui'opean euston vi.-it, and then >h These have onlv llo even c<»n<luc '.villi its careful! ulici) the delicioi AN ENTEI{TAINMi:VT. 1 05 roiincd ; she ■.- ii';»i'.5;iiJ iutullectnal, and Ibiitl of books. The five I; ,ii<hnaidv-..- were dressed in a inanner which, thouuli not iiielo- rint, showed tlie inferiority of their pot-ition — one of tlieni very handsonie, dressed in scarl«,'t satin, but none of tiic live vore jewels, or had small feet. The wife has no children ; two of the waiting- women have. While, by the custom of China, these children are iK't'vedited to the wife as her own, and deemed le<,dtimate, their mothers ratlier lose than ac(|uii'o respect by the parenta^^e. The iinitual inspection of dresses in the boudcjir havin<jj ended, the visit- or? were next conducted to what they sup^wscd to be the mandarin's apartment, the great room of the house. Here they found a sola, a cctvered table, and two chairs, all Euro})ean, a broad but very low carved Chinese bedstead, with heavy blue-silk curtains, and cases of cliemical, photo<»Ta])hic, electric, and other scientific a})paratus of European manufacture. Tea was served in French china cup^, first the Enf;l''sh breakfast-tea, afterward the real Chinese beverage, which has the exquisite aroma of neroli ; with it nice cakes of end- k'fis variety and shapes, made of Hour, sugar, and oil. The wife and one of the women sat at the table with the guests, while the others busied themselves in sending in the ditlerent courses of the- oiitortaitiment, which were served by young girls. The Chinese ladies, with their own hands, favored their guests with cigarettes iiiado of Turkish tobacco, while they themselves used long, massive, silver pij>es. The smoke was Inhaled through water, and invariablv hjdwii (lut of the nose. Being well ]irovided with inter])reters, the visitors tried to iiuhu'e conversation. The Chinese ladies answered nothing, but iaughed at every thing the guests said. They then •nileavored to acconinuxlate themselves to their entertainers, and -poke to them as to i-hihlren, but with little more success. The iiiaiidarin improved the o])portunity to express his admiration for Kurojieiin cu,stoms. lie thanked the ladies for the honor of their visit, and then showed them all the other apartments (»f the house. These have only stout^ floors, and the rooin^^ are without furniture. Ho even ( onducted them to his oj>ium-sm».king room for guests, 'vitli its carefully ]>re]tared kang and j.iiiows tor reclining upon wlun the delicious intoxication comes on. The ladies, of course, 12 W \ 1., •%^ •a I \ m» ' IGO JAPAN, CIIIXA, AXn COCHIN ( IllNA. (11(1 not iiulnluc. The UKUularin nitni-mcd tlicm that lie does ii(,f practise it, and on this occasion the nse of the room was h)st. Tlir mancUirin, beini; a proticient in photography, displays iiictures ul' YAVH-I \S(. S •^VIuKIMi-l'.imM his Avifo and handmaidens thronj^hont the honse. In one room there is a disorderly collection of Chinese hooks. In ^^oin;;' throu«ih tiie mazi' ofaitartments, the ladies, liearini,^ the loud chirping of a cri 'kct, stoi»ped. Thereupon oin* of the woincii hronirht out a wl.ite-silk bag from her piu'ket, and t(H)k from it i small, e.\<piisitely-carve(| l)and>oo-l)o.\,and, opening it, showed \\> iu.i ])et cricket, which closely resi-ndiles the American grasshopper. Tin- tiirhtiniT of cri( kets is a favorite annisement of the Chinese la<lir>. A ratlie;' (Ugh li-i-jron Ei:gli>li puinj», standing again>t tin' wall, attracti' 1 th;: atr» idiitn of the visitors, and they inquired it> use. The mandari:; .-iai !. " It is set u|> to extinguish accidental tiro, and I j>ut the women uii<ler it whcii they <piarri'l." The wunieii evidently lo(>ked upon it with disgust. The house cunsiots Kji' no less than twenty disfincit huiMiiiiis A ClIINKSE MANSION. H >< with rc(l-aii(l-ycll(t\v verandas, all coiuu'ctcd In* two vci-v irroL''ular corridors, oiu' nliovo llie (ttlicr, which tui'ii mid twist uj> and down throiin'h crvtoked little staircases, luidi-r arches, around s(|nare pil- lars, in and out ot" all sorth of dark holes an<l corners. There are ;\\(» nai'row areas, which pretend to be i;ardens, with a Ln*otes(|ue ciiiiihinatioii of shrubbery and roek-woi'k. llavini,' finislied the exploration of this quaint, inconvenient, and din^T mansion, the visitors took tlu'ir leave, and reached the legation at six in the evening". CUINEXB 'lATEW^Y. I CHAPTER VIII. RESIDENCE IX PEKIXd {Conllmcl). Tlio Pofay of (liina.— Tlic Toniplo of Heaven.— Tho Tciiiplo of tlio Kiirtli.— Tlio Tern- pie of Rudilha. — Tlie Chinese Hoiizes.— The Temple of Confucius.— Tlic H(lii;iun of Cliina.— .V rieii.siint Uemiioii.— The Hinls of I'eUing.— An Ollieial Dileuaua.— Interview wiih \Vdn-Hiun;', — liitluence of Uuilini'anie. Novemhci KVA. — Wu arc inclinod to think tliat, wliilo eve I'V other nation in the world is advaneini? toward a higher plane of civilization, China is not merely stationary, but is actually ooino backward and downward. Is this decline of China a resnit of tlie iinpertect (levelo])nient of relioious truth i The Chinese reniMJii now as tl'cv were live thousand j'ears ago, materialists, Tliev worship the hcfivcns, they worship the earth, the sun, and tl.i moon, the planets, and the ocean, besides a multitude ot oilier n atnral ohiects and force: Tl ley M'orship, more than any oriior th )tli creature, their ancestors, who are created beings even if they have an existence after death. Even the ])hilosophy and morals of ("dii- fncius have left the Chinese sentiment of his teachings not Ir- material than before. The Chinese have expres.sed this material lisni in erecting great temples — the Tem]>le of Heaven, the Temple ot the Earth, ami the Temple of the ^looii. To the materia! heaven they ascribe all powei', and from it tlu-y claim that the cnipeiNir. a- vicegerent, derives all authority. As Heaven made not only China. but the whole world, so the emperor as vie egerent nt»t only govern- the empire, but is rightful ruler oi' the whole earth. The TeiiipK dl' Heaven, in \\ or, if there is su( national one — nu is a national chin (»f France, or St. China what Solo stands in an enclc (l.»me, ty])ical of eiilar altar consist and twenty feet, t diameter. In thii by that ceremony nicitt of the who drapery of the ski b'.aith of Peking, { in dejiendence be Heaven, invoking ings in peace. I) similar thon<di les Dressed m red ri the Sun, and in pa A liigh, embai iini)erial palace, in When the cnipero Nile car, Avhich is The temple is heh hy the Mohamme( the foreign minist( l»i-ofaning the tein selves, is so great Xot long ago, how itver which some iii t" explore, think in tliat breach. On Iiii'^ sold all the ii into decay. We THE TEMPLE OF HEAVEN". 109 ni' IToiivcii, in Pekiii^^ h tlioretbre, prei'iniiiontly, the imperial one ; (.r, if there is such a thing as a sense of natiunuhtj in China, the national one — more national than Westminster Abhey or St. Paul's is a national cliurch of England, or Xotre-Dame a national church (,t' France, or St. Peter's of Italy. The Temple of Heaven is to China what Solomon's Tem])le was to the i)eople ot Judea. It stands in an enclosed area of six hundred acres. Its lofty jxtrcelain (Idiiie, tyj)ical of heaven, has the azure tint of the sky. Its cir- cular altar consists of three stages or stories, the lower one hundred and twenty feet, the second ninety feet, and the third sixty feet in diameter. In this Temple of Heaven the emperor is crowned, and 1)V that ceremony assumes, as vicegerent of Heaven, the govern- ment of the whole earth. He is dressed in blue, imitating the ilrai)ery of the skies, and faces the south, because China chictly lies bouth of Peking, and the rest of the world is supposed to be lying in dependence beyond it. Here he makes annual eacritices to Heaven, invoking its protection of the empire in war, and its bless- ings in peace. Dressed in yellow, the color of the earth, he offers similar though less fre(iuent sacrifices at the Tcm[)le of the Earth. Dressed m red robes, he makes similar homage in the Temple of tlio Sun, and in pale white in the Tem{)le of the Moon. A high, embanked road, once grandly paved, leads from the imperial palace, in the " Forbidder City," to the Temple of Heaven. When the em])eror visits this temple, he is seated in a yellow-and- liiue car, which is drawn over that road by six white elephants. Tln' tem]>le is held as sacred hy the Chinese as the Caaba at Mecca liy the Mohammedans. Mr. Seward was desirous to visit it. All the foreign ministers assured him that the i)opular prejudice against pnil'aning the temple, even by the intrusion of the Chinese them- selves, is so great that no ministry could dare open it to a foreigner. Xot long ago, however, there was a place broken in the outer wall, over which some adventurous travellers have entered. We set out to cx])lore, thinking it possible we might elfcct an entrance through that breach. On the way we took notice that the present regency has sold all the imperial elephants, and that the stables are falling into decay. We found the imperial avenue in ruins, so that no ir r ii > t r. » tl 1 t % % f* JW. 1 ITO JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. elcpliiint-car or otlier veliicle cduM bo di'iveii over it. Wc made our way on foot ami in cliiin's. Arriviii<jj opposite tlie toinplc aria, we discovered that, althon^li the breach in the wall had been closed, a ;;ate at the front was ()i)en, a janitor standing hy it. This si'i'in- ing a [)r'»i»itious sign, we left the avenue, and directed our sl"i'|ih thither. The janitor, seeing us ajiproach, closed the gate, and re- tired, certaiidy out of sight, but we thought n(»t out of heariiiir. We had interpreters ready of 8})eech and skilful to negotiate, hut no inducement that we oll'ered, either moral or pecuniary, coidd avail to bring back the lost custodian. This was only one more renewal of the exptM'ience which other mendjcrs of the party had TKMPIB OF HEAVEN. for several days. ]\[ore disappointed than chagrined, we crossed the avenue, to a gate opjjosite the Temple of Ilea von, which opens upon the same area with the Temple of Agricidture. A Ion;; nrgiunent onsuo( iiistodian. It en On iiKpdry, how involved the pi'i\ of preiiaynient of The enclosure (h'cd acres. C'ust year to this tempi the occasion of 1 ovrcnt of Heaven seed, niid im])lore These fuiu-tions I 1)1' delegated, and minority of the ei years of age. Se\ last monarch, the I'uiii, such as are agricultural fairs. A large poi-tio a growth of more the roads are over tlioi'u made fearfu continually on ou iiidf an acre is a trade and a stairc On ceremonial occ jdatfurm under a i'r< 'u his palanqm' opposite, at a dist occupied by the i c'm])eror leaves th by his fanuly and distant, which ma the inner wall of it is a throne, the celebration. Ove TIIH TKMIM.K OF AdRIcri/rrilE. 171 ury-uinent cuHued hctwee'ii our iiik'ri)retc'r. Dr. AVilliaius uimI the ciistodiim. It oncK'il bv his taking- hah'n dollar in ("hiiit'so "cash.'" Oil iii([nirv, howmer, we t'ound that the diHicidly was not oiic that involved the ])rivilei;'e c»t' entering the teiii[»Ie, hut only a (juetstittn (it'j)re[)a_vnient ot'tiie tee. The enclosure of the Tenijile ol' Agriculture contains tour hun- dred acres, (histuin re(|nires that the emperor shall come once a year to thistemi)le, with the aimiG niagniliceiit demonstration as on the occasion of his ' isits t>> the Temple of Heaven, and, as vice- o'crcnt (»f Heaven, shall break tho earth with a plough, sow it with seed, and imploi pro])itiou> rain ami s\inshine, and plentiful harvest. These fmictions being celestiil, the riglit to perform them cannot l)u delegated, and so they are tor ihcj present suspciuled during tlu' minority of the em])eror. Tlu! j)resent emperor is yet only thirteen years of age. Several years ha\':;ig elapsed since the deatli of the last nu)narch, the tem])le and its appurtenances exhibit neglect and ruin, such as are not likely to occur on the show-grounds of our airricultural fairs. A large portion of the grounds is covered with cypress-gi'oves. a growtli of more than five Imndred years. The groumls and even the roads are overrun with coarse, rank grass and weeds. The wild- thorn made fearful havoc with our clothes, and we ivcpiired to be continually on our guard against nettles. In an open s(piare of half an acre is a circular platform (»f stone, with a marble balus- trade and a staircase, which is guarded by the figure of a dragon. On ceremonial occasions, a thi'one is placed in the centre of this ])latform under a gorgeous blue canoj^y. Here the emperor alights fn '11 Ills palanquin, and takes his seat in solitary pomp. Directly opposite, at a distance of thirty feet, is a similar jdatform wliich is occupied by tlie imperial family. Proclamation being made, tlie oni])oror leaves the throne, and makes a solemn jjrogress, followed by his family and ministers, to a temple some two hundred feet distant, which may be eighty feet square and lifty foet high ; against the inner wall of this tenq)lc a dais is raised twenty feet, and upon it is a throne, the same which the late emperor occupied at the last celebration. Over the throne, in large characters, is this legend : I"' W ^ n i y I 1 I •-3 IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) h V 1.0 I.I 14^128 |2.5 :^ lAfi 12.0 UUu IL25 1 1.4 2.2 1.6 /A >% ^j^- /■/ '/ Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14S80 (716) 873-4503 ^^ V iV "o^ >^ ^ ^ "9) £,^ 172 JAPAX, CnmA, AND COCHIN CHINA. "We praise the God who taught men to sow, and who gives tlieiu the harvest." Altars with vases surround the throne. "Wlien the emperor Lii.s been seated for a time, he rises, and, standing erect, lifts his Iwuds in adoration, and amid the clouds of incense invokes the blessiiiiis needful for his people. This part of the ceremony concluded, the emperor then M'alks to a distant enclosure of perhaps eight acres. Here, upon another throne, he is attended by the imperial fomily and the whole court. New proclamation being made, the emperor advances into the field, and with his own hand on the plough drives it until one acre of soil is upturned. This done, he scatters the seed. Princes of the imperial family and distinguished members of the court follow, and in like manner plough and sow the remain- der of the field. After this, the emperor, with his family, court, and ministers, repairs to a platform on the opposite side of the field, TABLBT HALL. on which is ( makes a bun tlie God of 1 Ila^-ing i of the Tern- edifice, on i of the Win( Grass, and th ward conduc in which plac arched passa^ they are butc pared for the ofierings are I in which, aftei mals, and all t ants engaged i On our wa canopied orato a dwarf, the o stature. The is copper-color^ white. The cc can black. T] ilians. This si fierce, wooden and barrel, corn Three thou mighty spake d on the western Lord thy God. slialt not make thing tiiat is ir that is ill the Wf down to them, jealous God." THE EMPEROR MAKES BURXT-0FFERING8. 173 oil Avliic'li is erected a large altar. Here, in the presence of all, he makes a burnt-ofi'ering of oxen, sheep, goats, and other animals to the God of Agriculture. Having surveyed these more prominent places in the area of the Temple of Agriculture, we next visited a great central ediiice, on the walls of which arc tablets dedicated to the God ot the Winds, the God of Thunder, the God of tlie Green Grass, and the God of the Green Stalks of Grain. "NVe were after- ward conducted to a sunken place, paved and walled with stone, in which place the sacrificial animals are kept. We saw here the arched passage through which they arc driven, the yard in which tliey are butchered, the immense platform on which they are pre- pared for the altar, the huge furnaces and kettles in which the offerings are burned, and finally the oven, as large as a city bakery, in which, after the sacrifice is completed, all the refuse of the ani- mals, and all the garments and vestments of the priests and attend- ants engaged in the sacrifice, are reduced to ashes. On our way out of the temple, we stopped before a curious ivy- canopied oratory, within which stand the shrines of three gods, one a dwarf, the others larger, the three differnig in complexion as in stature. The right figure, the God of the Sea, bears a trident, and is copper-colored. The left figure is the God of Rain, and is pure white. The central figure is the God of Benevolence, and is Afri- can black. The Chinese divinities are always attended by guar- dians. This singular group rejoices in the protection of a huge, fierce, wooden soldier, armed with a veritable musket, lock, stock, and barrel, complete. Three thousand three hundred and sixty years ago, the Al- mighty spake directly to a portion of the human race then residing on the western shore of Asia, " these words, saying, I am the Lord thy God. Thou shalt have no other gods before me. Thou slialt not make unto thee any graven image or any likeness of any thing that is in heaven above, or that is in the earth beneath, or that is in the water under the earth. Thou shalt not bow thvself down to them, nor serve them ; for I the Lord thy God am a jealous God." i i ; 174 JAPAN, CIIIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. The nations wliich have establislied themselves between tliu Mediterranean shore, on which these words were si)o]cen, and the eastern side (if the Pacific Ocean, have accepted and obeyed those awful commands, and have built a common system of civilization npon them. But the dwellers here on the eastern coast of China liave not accepted either the idea that God is the Creator and Supreme Director of the Universe, or that he is One God, or that he is a jealous God. It is not to be understood, however, that the national mind of China has made no struggles to lift itself above the dead level of materialism. We proceeded from the Temple of Agriculture to visit one which is a monument of such a struggle. This is the Te.nple of Buddha. The founder of the Buddhist faith did in- deed reach the sublime truths expounded by Moses, that God is spiritual, One, and jealous. But he could not hold fast tij that exalted truth pure and simple. That taith, therefore, while it accepts Buddlia as the Supreme Creator of the Universe, teaches at the same time that, by various processes, occupying long spaces of time, he becomes and remains incarnate on the earth. This impersonation, bearing the name of the Grand Lama, resides in Thibet, veiled from all mortal eyes but a purified and sacred priesthood, which priesthood has its societies and orders throughout China and all the East. It is a subject of curious re- ilection that, as, in Europe and America, the nations uniformly derive their revelations and systems of faith from the East, so, on the eastern shores and islands of Asia, they with equal confidence claim to have received their religious revelations from the West. The Buddhists have two great temi)les at Peking—one in the Tartar city, the other in the Chinese. It was the former which wo visited. It consists of several immense edifices, which in the seven- teenth century were the residence of an emperor, wdio becoming an adherent to that religion surrendered his palace to the conmiunity of Buddhist bonzes, and dedicated it to that form of worship. The principal structure, built of brick and stone, is capable of holdinij; three thousand persons ; the roof is supported with columns of cedar brought from I>irmah, eighty feet high. A gigantic wooden statue THE TEMPLE OF BUDDHA, 17.-) of Buddha towers from the floor to the roof. Its carved drapery, while it leaves the form distinct, conceals the entire person except the huge, jet-black face, fingers and toes. According to the tradi- tion of the sect, the living Buddlia in Thibet had, at the time of his incarnation, eighteen most saintly apostles who endured all manner of trials and worked all manner of miracles. These eighteen apostles, carved in wood, sit cross-legged in a circle around the great idol, gazing at the soles of their feet, supposed to be an atti- tude of divine contemplation. Vases of incense stand before the (rod and each of the saints. The images are so far from havinii: anv spiritual expression, that the faces of all, including that of Buddha, are simply inane. All around the temple arc shrines, each of which supports a diminutive female figure carved in bronze. Each of these figures represents the virgin mother of the incarnate r)uddha. It is not without probability that theologians suppose that this idea, now universally held by the Buddhists, analogous to that of the Madonna, is a modern innovation derived from some early inculcations of the Christian Church. Certainly the similarity is remarkable. One of our fellow-travellers at Shanghai bought a hronze image of the mother of Buddha, with an inftir.t in its arms, which, on examuiation, we concluded to be an antique figure of tlie Virgin Mary. These statuettes to-day are carefully draped in bright yellow silk, the thermometer having fallen last night to 32°. AdmM-al Rodgers will verify another curious ornament which arrested our attention in this temple. It is a picture which hangs against the inner wall, and presents a view of the Last Judgment — a celestial figure pronouncing sentence, the doomed descending into a fiery abyss, the blessed rising into regions of felicity. It is so like the conceptions of the middle ages, that the picture might have been a study for Michael Angelo in the Sistine Chapel. There are a thousand bonzes in the monastery attached to this temple. They surrounded us on our way through it. Though they wear a yellow uniform, they are ragged and unclean, and appear in the last stage of mendicity. We shrank from too close a contact with them. Tliey are ignorant, idle, and lazy. They seem to have no efficient ecclesiastical superior, and to be amenable to «s -to 176 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. no public opinion. In these respects they contrast very disadvan- tageously with the cleanly, neat, and courteous bonzes whom wc saw in Japan. Although a daily ritual service is read in the temple, it everywhere exhibits the saddest evidences of neglect and dilapi- dation. After so broad a study of the practices of idolatry, we were now prepared for the more pleasing ones of rationalistic institutions. Escaping from the mendicant throng, who followed us to the outer THE TEMl'LE OF OONITCIUS. gate of the Buddhist monastery, we proceeded to the Temple of Confucius. It is about as spacious as the Sena';e-hall in "Washing- ton. After having been so long bedazzled and bewildered by tlic Buddhist and other pagan temples in China, it %va8 not without pleasant surprise that we found the great hall, which we now en- tered, unique in design and simple in decoration. There is here THE TEMPI-E OF CONFUCIUS. I i neither idol nor imago, the likeness of any thing in the heaven above, or the earth beneath, or in the waters nnder the earth, noth- ing to bow down to or worship. There is neither altar, nor vase, nor candelabra. Instead jf all these, there is, in a large niche in the rear wall, a plain pedestal, which bears a modest red tablet, on ^vhich is engraved, in letters of gold, the name " Confucius." The architrave of the niche bears seven legends, the homages of the sev- eral emperors, of the present dynasty, who have reigned since the temple was built. These legends are as follows : By KiA-KiNG. " The holy one combined the great perfections." By Kang-IIi. " The leader and patron of all nations." By YuNG-CiiiNG. " Mankind has seen none like him." By KiEN-LiNG. " The equal of Heaven and Earth." By Tai-Kwang. "The holy one who assists in harmonizing the seasons." By IIlEN-FuNG. " Ilis virtue is all the virtue which can exist between the cano- py of Heaven above and the Earth below." FuxG-Cni, the present boy-emperor, contributes this : " His holiness is divine ; Heaven cannot circumscribe it." Around the sides of the room are arranged tablets dedicated to eminent disciples of Confucius. Near the temple is the great Palace Hall, where the annual competitive examination of pupils, from all parts of the empire, is held. The construction of the Ex- amination Chamber is at once convenient and elegant. We are mi '■'<!■ not sure tliai it amination Hall 11 plain tliroiie, the purpose of iners, with ben The studies an regarded as the 'A riously coramitt this hall with tl of massive g. an The square nioi Confucius, the t tions within tht apartments for bears, in govei THE ACADEMY. 179 not sure tliat it would be thought exceptional for Lyceum or Ex- amination Hall at Yale or Harvard, It has a raised plattorni, with ii ])lain throne, for the emperor, who annually attends here for the puq)ose of conferring the degrees, and has ehai''s for the exam- iners, with benches, raised in semicircular rows, for the candidates. The studies are confined to the writings of Confucius, which are regarded as the classics of China, and every word of which is labo- ; I ' I H ' 1 '. U . 1 il, iipi ;iii''u^_ ■mm. iV'v!i''>i[|: ;•'/, IMAOF. OP CONFUCrUS. riously committed to momory. A long, covered corridor connects this hall with the temple last described. This corridor has a row of massive g/anitc columns. AYe could not stop to count them. The square monoliths are completely covered with the writings of Confucius, the text being the prescribed standard for all republica- tions within the empire. The grounds contain twei>^e thousand apartments for professors and scholars. The enthe institution bears, in government language, the name of "academy." We 180 JAPAX, CHINA, AXD COCHIN CHINA. were sorry to find dl parts of the academy covered witli dust and sand, and exhibiting evidence of mueli neglect, though not dihiin- datcd like the temples. Open any Chinese hook, ask any Chinese statesman or scholur, and you will learn that Confucius is worshipped. Push the incjiiliv further, and you will learn that he is worshipped not as a deitv, but as a person of divine perfection. The absence of the custom- ary symbols of worship in the Temple of Confucius confirms thi^; view. The Chinese ambassadors at Washington refused to recognize one of their young countrymen who had been educated at Fairfax Theological Seminary for the Christian ministry. lie pleaded, as an excuse for his conversion, the divinity of Christ. They replied : "Why do we want another Christ ? We have a Christ of our o^\•^, Confucius." A Chinaman, whom we met here, when pressed bv one of our missionaries to accept the gospel of Jesus Christ as the gift of God to man, replied : " Why is not a Christ born in Cliiua as good as a Christ born in the United States ? " This national habit of comparing Confucius with the Saviour undoubtedly results from the similarity, in many respects, lotwcen the teachings of Confucius and the Cnristian morals. The Chinese reformer teaches no dogmatic theolog}^, either of materialism or mysticism. He tolerates all such, however, while his code of m(»r- als and manners is ada])tcd to all classes and conditions of society, and to all forms of religious fsiith. The worshippers of heaven and earth, the sun, moon, and stars, can accept the system of Coni'u- cius, because it does uot interfere with any principles of their own. The Buddhists entertjiin no jealousy of it. It fails, however, to regenerate the empire; it is "of the eiirth, earthy." "As is the earthy, such are they also that are r-arthy, and as is the heavenly, such are they also that are heaverdy." The motive of duty to our fellow-men must have its most effective spring in the sense of dutv to God. No human being can have that sense, unless he has accepted the truth that God is one, and that he is a Spirit to be worshipped in spirit and in truth. The day closed with an excursion through the imperial city, and under the walls of the " prohibited " city. The grounds at- tached to the THE PARADISE OF BIRDS. 181 tiiclied to tlic imperial palaces have an exquisite arrangement of l:i\vn and grove, of hill and lake. These grounds are cultivated with tliic care, and gave us the only scene we have found in Peking, or indeed in China, exempt from the ravages of decay and desolation. Novemher Wth. — AVe met, hist evening, the diplomatic society, and all the foreigners residing iu Peking, in a pleasant reunion at the British legation. The imperial parks and gardens, the groves around the temples, the waste places made by sieges and fires, not to speak of the mul- titude of canals, fit Peking to be a paradise of birds, and the taste cif the Chinese peoj)le favors their preservation. We are awakened every morning by the cawing of the foraging army of crows going out on their march to the cornfields outside the city. The sky is blackened at sunset with the regiments returning to bivouac. The crow is not here, howeve^- as among us, regarded with dislike. He is taught solemn exercises, cunning acts, and winning ways. Tiirushes, as large as our robins, and sparrows especially beautiful, " abound, and game is more plentiful than poultry at home. The pigeon, everywhere a ftivorite of man, is especially so here. Flocks, whirling through the air at all hours of the day, arrest notice by shrill and varied notes, which they never utter elsewhere. We were a long time perplexed as to what particular species these birds belonged, and in what way they produced these not unmusical sounds. They are reared in dovecotes, and a light reed-whistle is delicately fiistcned on the back of the bird, at the root of the tail- fe:ither8. Many reasons arc assigned for this invention. The most common one is, that it frightens the crows in their depreda- tions. Another, that they protect the flocks against the birds of prey. However this may be, the music produced on these ^Eolian harps is sufficient to account for the practice, without looking for any economical reason. We have frequently recognized the pigeon in his office of letter- carrier. He is the only postman employed in China, except the swift-footed Government courier, whose toll is so great while his reward is so small. What a change must come over the empire, 13 1 a *^-1 ti 182 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. when tliis postman gives place to the railroad, the express, aiul tlu; electric telo/^raj»h ! Wo have not seen the magpie domcsticutcO, but he keeps perpetual ward in the palaces, castles, and gates. While we have been studying the birds of Peking, some meiii- bors of our i>arty were making u new advance upon the Tem])le of Heaven. What they saw nuist be recorded, less for the forbidden knowledge which was gained than for the moral reflections which it suggests. Mr. Coles, a pupil in the American legation, conduct- ed a party of four, two of whom were ladies, along the high, paved road in the direction of the temple. At a distance from the gate he left them and threw himself into a mean, closely-covered nmle- eart, in which he made his way unsuspected along the base of tlie wall, until he reached the central gate, from which we had before been repulsed. Emerging from the cart, he rushed into the ojtcii gate-way, and planted himself by the side of the stern janitor, who requested the unwelcome visitor to retire, and attempted to close the gate. But the visitor stood firm, all the while beckoning to the distant party to come up. The custodian now betrayed a con- bciousness that he did " perceive here a divided duty." In any case it was a duty to save the great altar from profanation by native or foreigner, especially the latter. Secondly, since the Tien-Tsin nias- s<acre the Government has strenuously commanded that in no case Bliall offence be given to Christians. The custodian made the best he cruld of the dilemma, and yielding to the resistance which he could not overcome Avithout violence, he piteously implored from the in- truder a douceur, by way of indemnity for the bastinado which the Government was sure to inflict as a punishment for infidelity at his post. Terms were liberally adjusted, and the party went suc- cessfully through the temple, penetrating even the holiest of its holies. The janitor hurried them forward, his fears of the bas- tinado increasing with every minute of delay. His terror became 60 gi'eat that, when they had completed the examination and returned to the gate, he demanded a larger sum for letting iliein out than he had before received for letting them in. To what a hum.iliating condition has the empire of Kublai-Xhan fallen, when its sovereign dare !^nt suffer the foreigner to enter the WAN-SIANG'S LETTElt. 183 prcat national temple, through fear of domestic insurrection, nor to forbid him from entering, through fear of foreign war ! While tlie visitors confirm the descriptions of tlic magnilicencc of the tom])lo which wo have before mentioned, they assure us also that even in the Temple of Heaven, as in all the other edittces and places we have visited, neglect and decay are indescribable. AVan-Siang is president of the I>oard of Kites, and principal ^Minister of Foreign Alfairs. Acting in concert with the regent Prince Kung, AVan-Siang was the master-spirit who led theC'liineso (Jovernment ui) to the resolution of entering into diplomatic rela- tions with the AVestern powers. It was he who solicited and ])r()cured from Mr. Seward at Washington a coj)y of Wheaton's " Law of Nations," and caused it to be translated and adopted by the inrperial Government. He, more than any other, was cfticient in instituting the Burlingame mission. As has been before in- timated, when we arrived he was nnder a leave of absence from official duties for one year, on the double ground of his ill-health and the duty of mourning for that period the death of his mother. Under these circumstances Mr. Seward, the day after his audience with the cabinet, addressed a note to Wan-Siang, sympathizing with him in his illness, and proposing to visit the minister at his own house. This note brought an autograph letter, beautifully written on rose-colored Chinese official paper, as follows : " I have long heard of your excellency's great fame, which for many years has been cherished by all nations, and I myself have exceedingly respected you and longed for a better acquaintance. Since you have come to our country, its high authorities will be still more desirous of seeing and conversing with you. But, as for myself, an old malady having returned, I have been obliged to ask u leave of absence, and it was an occasion of regret and disappoint- ment that I was unable to meet you on the Tth instant, when you visited the foreign office. I have had the honor to receive your note of yesterday, in which you propose to yourself the great trouble of coming to see me, an honor which I shall engrave in my heart, and write on my bones. But my dwelling is mean and small, and its condition would, I fear, be offensive to you, which t..JI 184 JAPAN^, CniNA, AND COCHIN CHINA. Avould be a matter of deep regret to me. I have, therefore, set apart the 11th instant to go and call on you at one o'clock in the afternoon, if my health will in anywise enable mo to do so. Wo can then converse at length. I shall be pleased to receive a reply, and I avail myself of this occasion to wish that hai^pincss may every day be yours." The letter bore no signature, but enclosed within was the writ- ten card of AVan-Siang. At twelve another autograph card of Wan-Siang was delivered to Mr. Seward, as an announcement: of the minister's app^'onch. He arrived at the moment, in a green sedan-chair, with two mounted attendants and four footmen. lie is a dignified and grave person, and he went througli the ceremony of introduction to Mr. Seward with ease and politeness. lie wore a rich dress of silks and furs, and a mandarin's hat with a peacock's feather and a coral ball on the top. Mr. Seward and Mr. Low sat down with Wan-Siang, Dr. Williams acting as interpreter. Wan-Siang said : " I have been detained at my home one whole year by ill- health. I should not have come out from it now, and perhaps 1 should never have come out from it again, but for my desire to make your acquaintance. I have always known you as a firm and constant friend of a just and liberal policy, on the part of the Western nations toward China. I am surprised to see you so vigorous after so laborious a public service. What may be your honorable ao:e?" Mr. Sewakd answered : " Sixty-nine." Wan-Siang exclaimed : " Sixteen years older than I, and yet so much stronger and more elastic ! You are going from your own country around the M'orld, while I, alas! am unable to keep about my own proper business at home." Mk. Seward said: "Mr. Btirlingame's letters and conversa- tions made me well acquainted with your character and your saga- cious and effective statesmanship." Wan-Siano : " We deplore the death of Mr. Burlingame. It is a loss to China that he died before accomplishing his mission. Mr. Burlingai embassy was i Mb. Sewa its provisioni courts. They met Chi-Tajei the treaty ha Mr. Burb'ngan China and the In this view honorable fam WAN-Sli4NC men interest I be free to spea Mr. Sewai Western natio and consuls, w eign nations ac be not foreiirnc AVan-Siaxg be educated he qualified for th Mr. Sewak long. Chinese and customs, i they can acqn already largely interests of CI for want of C ing to the cus tion and prot oppression, tlicre is no re crn nations, as lects the exch at home." INTERVIEW WITH WAN-SI ANG. 185 Mr. Burlingame wrote to us from the United States how much the embassy was indebted to you for its great success." Mr. Seward : " Before the treaty was signed at "Washington, its provisions were confidentially submitted to the European courts. They gave us assuran . s that they would accept them. I met Chi-Tajen and Sun-Tajen at Shanghai. They told me that the treaty had been virtually accepted by the European states. Mr. Burlmgame's mission was therefore a success, lie has brought China and the West into relations of mutual friendship and accord. In this view his death was not premature. He has raised an honorable fame on a firm foundation." "Wan-Siang: "Does any subject occur to you which is of com- mon interest to China and the United States, on which you would be free to speak ? " Mr. Seward : " I thinlc China ought to reciprocate with the Western nations by sending to them permanent resident ministers and consuls, who should be of equal rank with those which the for- eign nations accredit here. They ought, moreover, in all cases, to be not foreigners, but native Chinese." > "Wan-Siaxg : " We shall send such agents so soon as they can be educated here in the Western sciences and languages, so as to be qualified for their trusts." Mr. Seward : " Better that they go unqualified than wait too long. Chinese experts will learn Wcstcn sciences, languages, laws, and customs, in the United States or v\ Lurope, much faster than they can acquire them here. Moreover, Chinese immigration is already lar^elv flowinsr into the United States. The rig-hts and interests of Chinese immigrants are likely to suffer neglect there for want of Chinese diplomacic and consular agents, who, accord- ing to the customs of nations, are expected to invoke the atten- tion and protection of the Government, in cases of injustice or oppression. Again, there is no accord nor friendship where there is no reciprocity. China is now regarded, by ail the West- ern nations, as not merely unsocial, but hostile, because she neg- lects the exchange of international courtesies abroad as well as at home." I 186 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. "VVan-Siang : " These arc my own opinions. I liave always en- deavored to bring them into practice." Mr. Seward: "There is another point upon which I would like to speak freely, if I should not be thought speaking in an un- friendly way. I think I know the temper of the European states, Chinese ministers are accorded a personal reception by the sover- eigns of those nations. The Chinese emperor refuses a personal reception to the foreign ministers here. Thus, the Chinese minis- ter is admitted to a direct aecpiaintance with the President ■ f the United States, with the Queen of England, and with the Emperor of Itussia. A minister from either of those countries, on arriviuir here, learns that the Emperor of China is too sacred a person to be looked upon. This, to be sure, is only a cpiestion of ceremony and etiquette ; but, my dear sir, questions of ceremony and eti(pietto between nations often becouic the most serious and dangerous of all international complications." "VVan-Siaxg bowed courteously, but made no reply. Mr. Low, interposing, sa-d : "• The subject is a delicate one just now, but we are sure that Wan-Siang is the last statesman in China to overlook it." Mr. Seward : " Are the students, such as I saw yesterday nt tlie Temple of Confucius, and who are the only allowed candidates for official employments in China, instructed in modern Chinese scicuces, or are they taught the ancient classics only?" Wax-Siaxg : " Only the latter. I have attempted to procure the establishment of an imperial college, in which modern sciences and languages shall bo taught by foreign professors. For a while I thought that I should succeed. But the effort has tailed, and has brought me under deep reproach and general suspicion." Mr. Seward : " This ought not to discourage you. Every mIso minister at some time falls under temporary reproach and uiijust suspicion. Piddic opinion, in every country, is a capricious sea. AVhoevcr attempts to navigate it is liable to be tossed about by storms." AVak-Siano : " It is, as you say, indeed unavoidable. A states- man stands on a hill. lie looks farther in all directions than the A DEPRESSED STATESMAN. 187 people, who are standing at the base, can see. When he points out the course they ought to take for safety, they are suspicious that he is misdirecting them. When they have at hist gained the summit from which he pointed the way, they then correct their misjudg- nient. But this, although it may be sufficient for them, comes too late for the statesman.'" Wan-Siang seemed to avoid contested questions, like a sick man who is warned against excitement. lie turned the conversation upon Prince Kung's admiration for Mr. Seward, and disappoint- ment in tailing to meet him nt the foreign office, and his purpose still to do so when recovered from his illness. "Wan-Siang then fell into lamentations over his own prostrate health, and expressed liimsclf dcspondingly concerning the future of China. After an exchange of courtesies he withdrew, leaving on Mr. Seward's mind the painful impression that Wan-Siang would die, before many years, of a broken heart. On inquiring the cause of Wan-Siang's mental depression, Mr. Seward learned that it is due to the defeat of his plans for the col- lege which he had mentioned. It is only just, however, to say that a more hopeful view of that great and beneficent project is entertained, not only by intelligent foreigners residing here, but by Wan-Siang's associates in the (xovcrnment. If we have exhausted the sights and wonders of Peking during onr stay, certainly the city seems imconscious of it. The wretched streets have become a little less muddy, and the general aspect more cheerful, than when we came here ten days ago. Li CHAPTER IX. VISIT TO THE GREAT WALL. Preparations for the Trip. — Our Vchic'es. — Tlic Summer Palace. — Pagodas. — First Xiplu uiuler a Chinese Koof. — A Chinese Tavern. — Approacli to the Great Wall. — The Mongolians. — The Cost of the Wall. — Inquisitive Chinese. — The Second Wall. — The Ming Tombs. — A Jlisguided Mule. Ilijden, Novcmhcr \'^th. — Pekirig is on the parallel of 39° ~)\' . The point of the (Jreat Wall which avc propose to visit is in a direct north line about forty miles distant, on an elevation of two thou- sand feet above the city. This altitude has a climatic eflect of nearly Bevcn degrees of latitude. The climate there may therefore be un derstood to be about the same in relation to Peking as the climate of Lake Superior is to that of Kew York. "We provided against in- clemency by a supply of furs and braziers. What Avitli onr strange catskin caps, hmg foxskin coats, and high white felt boots, wo scarcely claimed to know each other. The obstacles to the o.vcnr- sion have not been over-estimated. They were not, however, of a political nature, like those which opposed our journey to Pcldng. They are chiefly material and local. Our arrangements were made several days in advance, with Chinese common carriers, for the necessary litters, carts, mules, donkeys, drivers, and attendants. On the afternoon of the tenth, we saw Avith our own eyes a, combined force of men and beasts enter the court ready to be caparisoned an(^ packed during the night to start on the next day, just as soon as Wan-Siang's expected visit should be over. It was not, how- A CHINESE CART. 189 ever, until eight o'cloclc last night that it was announced to us, not only that the necessary complement of litters had not been ob- tiiued, but also that they could not be procured in the city that day. We acquiesced with such grace as we could, and appointed a new hour for departure, namely, six o'clock this morning. "We determined to retire early, Mrs. Low's ball to the contrary notwithstanding. In vain was that " net spread in sight of these birds." Wc rose at live o'clock. All the mules that had been frathered the day before had been taken away during the night to their customary stables. There was not one animal in the court- yard. At eight o'clock two mules were lacking, but they had been CUINESB CART. Eont for. At nine, one of the mules whicli remained was taken gick and was sent away to the hospital. At ten, it was replaced. At half-past ten, the driver fell suddenly ill, and was sent home r it ^ a JJ I mi a» 190 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. unfit for duty. At noon, after we had been sitting tl ree hours closely packed in our litters, the great gate opened, and the hwiz procession, which, though a motley one, was completely orgi.nii.'::e(J moved out. The roads we are to travel do not allow the use of sedan-chairs. Only mnndarins are allowed the privilege of travel- ling in mule-litters. Inferior persons are by the Board of Rilcs TUB LITTlill, confined to the use of the heavy, two-wheeled, closo-covcrcd mnle- cart, indulgently called by Mr. Pnmpelly "a carriage." The cara- van consists of eight covered litters for the less vigorous members of the party. Each litter is borne by two mules harnessed between the shafts, one before and one behind the litter. Each litter has an extra mule for occasional service. It has also a driver on foot and a muleteer on a donkcv. Then there are six carts, each drawn by one mule, and attended by a driver who walks. All the aniuiab THE TEMPLE OF THE GREAT BELL. 191 ^vcar tinkling bells, which give warning to all can\el-drivcrs and whomsoever else it may concern, that a wide berth is required by the ostentatious occupar.ts of the litters. Our way out of the city was through the North Gate. It brought in review, as we passed, the wayside traffic and St.^eet amusements of this singular people. Every thing to eat, to drink, and to wear, is prepared and sold in booths, and every thing needful in daily life and death, including cotiins, is made and mended there. Tliese booths are interspersed at short distances with theatres, show-rooms, and gambling-dens. Yon see an hourly performance of Punch with a pigtail, and Judy with cramped feet, thimblerig, harlequin, cards, dice, and magic. Occasionally we meet a lady " of the better sort," closely cushioned in a sedan-chair, more frequently " other women," with or without chiklrcn, heaped and packed in horrible carts. Only virtuous and respectable people are allowed this indulgence. These women are (ravly dressed, painted white and red, and wear large chrysanthe- mums, or rosettes, in their hair. The very few women whom wc pass in the streets are accounted both vulgar and vicious. The booths and theatre were not the only obstacles in our line of inarch. We jostled against long camel-caravans ; funeral-proces- sions, which, by the affectation of solemnity, made a mockery of death; and wedding-processions, which, withont a pretence to rc- tiucmcnt or delicacy, make tlie marriage ceremony a vulgar spec- tacle. At Ta-tsoon-tsa, a dull and cheerless suburb, two miles be- yond the gate, we halted for refreshments, at the Buddhist temple of the Great Bell. In China, temples and Buddhist monasteries are freely opened for tlie entertainment of travellers. Two monks assisted our ser- vants in preparing lunch. The Temple of the Great Bell is humble compared with those in the city, but, although much dila]Mdated, is in a more cleanly condition than any wc have seen in China. It rejoices in one of eight immense bron/o bells which were cast at Peking in the year 1400 of onr era, by the Emperor Yung-Lo. It is of the ordinary bell-shape, eighteen feet high, with a mouth thirty-six feet in circumference. It has a small, circular aperture at the top, adapted to the apparatus for suspending the boll. It is C "fi K- I,. 3 192 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. literally covered inside and out with raised texts in very small Chinese characters, in all numbering, it is claimed, eighty-lbur eUMMEB PALACE. thousand. The bell is made to sound by being beaten with a heavy wooden club. A further drive of six miles brought us to the Yuen-Min-Yiicn, familiarly called the Emperor's Summer Palace. Since the time of the Mine: dvnasty, Yuen-Min-Yuen was the Versailles of China until 1800, when it was sacked, plundered, and dcsti'oyed, by the British and French allied armies in their advance on Peking. It is not in our way now to describe its former glory, or to relate the story of its catastrophe. "We must be content in writing what mc see and how we see it. The grounds of Yuen-Min-Yuen arc an area of twelve square miles. It once contained thirty extensive and costly palaces used by the emperor and court. The invaders related that the architecture, furniture, and embellishments of CANALS OF THE fiTTMMER PALACE. 193 Viicn-Min-Yucn, as they found it, wore a luippy and effective coni- biiKition of Oriental and AVestcrn luxury and elegance. Many streams, gathered on adjacent moinitain-slopes, arc brought into large artilicial lakes, and thence distributed by deep and clear canals throuc-h the grounds, and then used equal- ly for pleasure, navigation, and irrigation. The canals, after performing these serv- ices, unite and How throno;h a broad and deep canal into Peking, where they constitute the great and picturesque lake which we have before men- tioned as the finest ornament of the imperial city. "VVh'Ic the canals have been built with excellent masonry, they are crossed with graceful mar- ble bridges in various direc- tions. The fields, meadows, and lawns, are fertile, but now in a condition of com- plete neglect and waste. At the centre of the plain a cir- cular rocky islet rises abrupt- ly to a height of two hun- dred and fifty feet. This arti- ficial hill is traced with spiral terraces which fascinate the visitor by continually bring- ing into view palaces, pavil- ions, pagodas, temples, all half concealed by hanging S*'* ■*s 1 ■? .:4 ■ i ■ /^ M "^'1 194 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. gardens and proves, wliicli are embellished with fountains, statuary and shrines. The summit is crowned with an imperial sunnnor- house in the Italian style, its wall richly frescoed, and its roof glistening with blue and yellow porcelain. One of the delights of Yuen-Miu-Vuen was a unique temple, wrought of polished bronze, standing on the acclivii. ..is islet. We shall never weary of the Chinese pagoda. One of those at Ynen-Min-Yuen, which, with the temple last mentioned, preserves much of its form and beautv, is a gem of that sort of structures. It is of slender proportions, and built entirely of porcelain of variegated colors. There must Ikuc been a time when the sculptor of China, while he disdained to copy foreign models, had learned how to bring Greek and Roman taste and art to give effect to national designs. Although the lions, the sphinxes, and the dragons, which are profusely displayed here, are imaginative conceptions, any one of them would, by its exquisite execution, excite rdmiration in Eui'ope. The destruction of this magnifi, it palace by the allies presents one of those painful subjects concerning which agreement can never be expected between the generous and the unsympathetic portions of mankind. The allies say that the demolition was a just and even necessary retaliation against the emperor for the cruelty practised by the Chinese Government toward Sir Harry Parkes. The friends of art throughout the world will agree with the Chinese scholars and statesmen, who complain that the destruction of these ancient and ornamental palaces, with the plunder of their stores of art, was useless to the invaders, and therefore indefensible. For our own part, we have always thought that the British army might have spared the Capitol and the presidential mansion in 1814 ; and we now think that the allies might have spared Yuen-Min-Yuen. However this inay be, the fact remains that the Emperor of China, ruler of the oldest monarchy in the world, is the only sovereign who is confined to a single residence, and that in the heart of a crowded and walled city. The ruins are now without tenants, as the temples are without priests or worshippers. Speculators and adventurers boldly barter for the disfigured statuary and for the polished capitals, shafts, and pedestals, of the bronze temple. The THE DECAY OF CHINA. 195 roads are impassable, the marble bridges broken down, the canals choked, the gardens, groves, and walks, have become devastated, and tlic plain itself is fast becoming a stagnant marsh. Washington, licrlin, Vienna, and Moscow, have repaired the disasters they have respectively suffered, but the Chinese Government has no resources or spirit for renovation. The decay of Yuen-Min-Yuen must, therefore, continue until these " round and splendid " gardens shall become a maze as imintelligible to the traveller as the palace of the Caisars at Rome. It remains to be said that these imperial pleasure-resorts were surrounded by populous cities and villages, whose inhabitants derived their living from ministering to the needs and pleasures of the court. These cities and villages are now abandoned to bats and vermin. Arriving here after dark, we brought our long and hha7're pro- cession to a halt in the open streets, because the court-yard of the iun would not hold litters and carts with the teams attached. It is hard to say how either Mr. Seward or the ladies could have been able to alight and thread their way among the busy, curious crowd which thronged the narrow, crooked streets, but for the assistance of Admiral Rodgers and the consul-general. We came in safely, however, to have our first experience of lodging under a Chinese roof. Nan^Kow^ Nommher VUK. — The mule litter is comfortable, and its movement easy, but it makes only two miles an hour. The "cribbed, cabined, and confined," solitary occupant finds the travel tedious. We have learned, however, to relieve the weariness by occasional changes with the muleteer and the donkey- driver. The first part of our journey to day was over a level table-land. The road has been only a narrow, uneven, stony path, impassable with any vehicle other than those we have chosen. During the last two hours, we have climbed six hundred feet of the mountain slope, and have reached the foot of the' Nan-Kow Pass, up which wc must go to reach the Great Wall. With the usual ruggedness 100 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. of mountain scenery, no j)art of the country ailbrds any relief to the general aspect of desolation. Fahrenheit 32°. '" - -^^i;':... "^-^ NAN-KOW PASS. With few exceptions, the houses here are built of adobe, with thatched roofs, and only one story high. Our inn is of this sort, and consists of a low range of very small apartments, built against the wall on the four inner sides of a large, unpaved square. Wo have to-night, as last night, secured the entire inn. Entering from the street, we have on that side of the square a row of apartments which are divided by the gate. On the right of the gate are the rooms, or offices, occupied by the manager or keeper of tlie inn, where orders are received. On the left, a kitchen, or a series of immense cooking- houses, where victuals are cooked after the Chinese fashion, sufflcie niiirvoUous whi exliibits. The as he pleases. do. Proccedin of apartments according to th rooms. At the same sort, whic sleeping-apartn series of accom: and attendants ing to their tast harness block u it or through it inents, though ' uses to which m no corridor or tion between th arc about ten fe disjointed flat si swept. The do One small wind be covered, wit] nor where the n witli which he h have hired utenf and cloaks supp] of each apartme the stone floor. reverberatory fli The platform thi stead of the apa common bed. 1 it retains its hea replenish it at yo A CHINESE INN. 197 fashion, sufKcicnt, wc should think, to suj)ply the whole town. It is mtirvollous what economy of fuel, labor, and provisions, this kitchen exhibits. The guest at the inn may supply himself from it or not, us he pleases. Perhaps, it is needless to say that foreigners never do. Proceeding through the square, we have on one side a row of apartments just like the others, which are i)romiscuously used, according to the exigencies of the occasion, for stables or lodging- rooms. At the farther side of tiic square are four rooms of the same sort, which we have appropriated for parlor, dining-room, and sleeping-apartments. On the other side of the square, a similar series of accommodations for man and beast. The animals, drivers, and attendants are disposed of in their lodgings^nd stables, accord- ing to their tastes. The litters and carts with their clumsy, ragged harness block up the court-yard, so that there is no getting across it or through it, without a guide and a lantern. Our own apart- ments, though we have called them by names which designate the uses to which we have appropriated them, are all alike. There is no corridor or veranda within or without, and so no communica- tion between them except through the open court-yard. The rooms arc about ten feet square and seven feet high ; the floors of uneven, disjointed flat stones, and they seem to have been never washed or swept. The doors are rude, full of crevices, and without fastenings. One small Avindow in each room has a sash, covered, or meant to be covered, with dingy, torn, oiled i:)aper. We do not know how nor where the manager of the inn procured the one table and chair with which he has furnished our chosen dining-room. Our servants liavc hired utensils in the kitchen to prepare our supper. Our bags and cloaks supply the deficiency of chairs. Across one entire end of each apartment is a brick platform, raised eighteen inches above the stone floor. Under this platform is a sunken furnace with reverberatory flues, so placed as to heat every part of the surface. The platform thus heated, and called the Imng, is the common bed- stead of the apartment, and the bamboo-mat spread over it is the common bed. A good fire being built in the kang in the evening, it retains its heat generally during the night. You may, however, replenish it at your pleasure. The bedstead accommodates, if neces- i'm tr\ 198 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. sary, ten persons, who strotcli themselves out upon it side by side without making any change of clothing, wrapping themselves in their sheep-skin jackets. We, of course, have a separate room for each of our party. Our servants liave brought in the cushions, blankets, and furs, from our litters, and with these, by the aid of our dressing-cases, wo are able to make a pretence of toilets. We have even extemporized cur- tains, which are close, though not of damask. The kang is throw- ing out a genial heat through the room. We lie down upon it with the stars twinkling brightly through the broken paper panes of the only window. » November \Uh, Morning. — Our mules are not reliable for tlio part of our journey which remains. AVe have ordered mountain- chairs and coolies, and while they are coming we have made a complete tour of the inn. In the East, the travellers are generally merchants or government agents. As there are no carriage-roads, every one uses one, two, three, or more beasts. Forage is cum- brous, and therefore becomes the most serious care of the inn- keeper Dwellers in the East invariably live in close intimacy with their beasts ; hence cleanliness is a virtue scarcely known. The inn, which last night seemed to us not absolutely destitute of comfort, this morning is offensive and disgusting. Nan-Kow^ I^ovcmher 14M, Evening. — We have done it! Wc have seen the Great Wall. AVe have scaled its rampart, walked through its gates, examined its bastions, trodden its parapet, looked (»ff from its battlements, and rested under its shade. llcgardin<«: this as the greatest achievement of our journey thus for, we slionld desire to set down minutely and deliberately each one of its inci- dents ; but, hurried as we are by threatening Avinter, wo have only time [() describe the prominent features, and record an occasional thought. (Jhina might be designated as a country of fortifications and walls. Without being aware of this, we have already mentioiuMJ the walls of Shanghai, Tien-Tsin, Tung-Chow, and the triple walls '■'^'&Mmm (X u 'V» S.:} 200 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. 1 of the city of Peking. This little l ity of Kan-Kow has fortifications adequate to the largest garrison. Inscriptions on the gate-wajs and arches in four different dialects, Mongolian, Mantchoorian, Chinese, and Thibetian, besides another dialect which is no longer extant, prove the great antiquity of these structures. Besides these fortifi- cations, Nan-Kow is encircled by a wall which stretches over hill and valley in such a way that, while it is no longer useful for any purpose of defence, one cannot but hope that it may be preserved GATE AT NAN-KOW. for picturesque effect. Thus we seem here not to be seeing the present China, but the China of the past. From the very gate of Nan-Kow, we found neither regular road, nor marked nor beaten track, but a ravine, which, in the MOUNTAIN TRAVEL. 201 rcLijuliir lapse of ages, a torrent lias excavated down the mountain, falling a thousand feet in a distance of twelve miles. Our upward way lay in the rugged furrow of this torrent. Each passenger was lashed tightly in his "mountain" chair, which is simply an arm-chair mounted on two shafts, and borne "by four coolies, his safety de- pending on the tenacity with which his feet press against a swing- ing board suspended before him from the shafts. The coolies pick their way by crossing from one side to the other over uneven, broken bowlders and rocks, and through deep gullies. The passen- ger at one moment is in danger of slipping out backward from his chair, at another of being thrown out one side or the other, and again of being dashed headlong on the rocks before him. In some places the torrent is dry, in others the coolies are slipping over treacherous ice, or splashing through pools of water among rounded pebbles and sharp rocks ; in short, over every thing but dry earth. Steep mountains exclude the sun's light and heat at nearly all hours of the day. Those mountains are timberless, tenantless, dry, and brown. The geological formation of the pass is an alternation of granite, gneiss, red and yellow sandstone, porphyry, and marble. Having said that our road has none of the qualities and condi- tions of a thoroughfare, it will seem strange when we now say that at intervals we encounter, through the whole pass, blocks of hewn and polished marble, with other debris of pavements, culverts, bridges, arches, and gates, indicating that it was once a military road superior to the Appian Way of Rome. Only Love, that "laughs at locksmiths," could maintain his sway in this dreary region. We met, in one of the most fearful gorges, a magnificent crimson wedding-car, which was coming down from Kiakhta, to receive a bride at Peking. We encounter on the way a class of travellers that we have not before met. They come not in sedan-chairs, mule-litters, or carts, but on horses, cam- els, and donkeys ; and of these there is an endless procession. The beasts are loaded with wheat, barley, hemp, flax, and wool. Thirty camels make up a single train. One man leads each six of the beasts by means of a cord to which the halter of each is attached. Rocking from side to side, and unceasingly chewing their cuds l4 M 202 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA, II as tliey move slowly along, they excite interest by their patience, docility, and perseverance. Ro'^gli and vehement as the camel- driver seems, we have not seen him inflict a blow, or utter a word of impatience toward the gentle beasts. Another class of travellers are herdsmen. Mongolia and Mantchooria, beyond the Great Wall, are pasturages, and the flocks of sheep and herds of cattle which are raised there are brought chiefly through this pass, to be spread over the great p'ain of North China. The Mongolians dress altogether in furs and skins. They have an air of independence and intelligence not observable in China proper. The women are particularly strong, and, as we judge from their manner, entirely free. Their furs are richer than those of the men, and they wear a profusion of silver ornaments on the fore \ wrist, and ?nkle, as well as suspended from their ears and nose. They travel with their husbands, who divide with them the care of the children. If it is discouraging to some at home to wait for tl e restoration of woman's rights, it is pleasant to find her in the full enjoyment of them here, in spite of Oriental prejudices and superstitions. The mountain-cliffs are ornamented at conven- ient and prominent points with pretty temples and unique shrines, and pious devices and legends are carved on what seem to be in- accessible basaltic rocks. But the temples and shrines, no longer attended by votaries, are falling into ruin. Reaching at length the source of the mountain-torrent which has made such fearful devastation, we found ourselves in a dell surrounded by mountains, and from their crests the Great Wall encircling and frowning down upon us. Our chairmen at once, with renewed vigor and elasticity, carried us up a rugged declivity of a quarter of a mile, clambering over shivered and shattered rocks, and set us down within a redoubt at the verv base of the wall, three hundred feet above the dell which we had left. The wall varies in he-'ght from twenty-five to fifty feet. The base hei'c, twenty feet high, is built of solid, hewn granite. We were not long in ascending the well-preserved flight of stone steps which led to the parapet. The top of the wall is REFLECTIONS ON THE GREAT WALL. 203 wide enough for two carriages to pass. From the parapet we oon- templated the conquered China of the past, which was hclow us, and the conquering Tartary of the past, which was above us, both now under one regime^ and constituting one vast, but crumbhng empire. In the embrasures of the parapet we found, here and there, a cast-iron grooved cannon of four-pound calibre. It passed our comprehension to conceive when it was put there, or for what purpose. We entered a watch-tower on our left, and saw, at a dis- tance of forty miles, murky Peking. The Great AVall crosses twenty-one degrees of longitude from the Pacific coast to the desert border of Thibet, and with its wind- ings has a length of from twelve hundred to fifteen hundred miles. It seems almost incredible that this gigantic structure, the greatest fortification that has been built by human hands, could have been raised in the short space of about twenty years. Yet liistory assures us that Chin-Wangti began the work in the year 240 b. c, and finished it in 220 b. c. Nor is the perfection of the work less wonderful than the dispatch with wdiich it was built. Although it here and there exhibits crumbling arches and falling ramparts, it nevertheless stands more firmly and in better preservation than any ancient structure, except perhaps the Pyramids. Yery slight repairs would restore it to its original state. " Admiral Rodgcrs," said Mr. Seward, as we leaned against the immovable parapet, " will you take your pencil and make an esti- mate of the comparative cost of constructing a mile of this wall, at the present day, with that of a mile of the Pacific Railroad? " The two gentlemen went through the process together, and agreed in the result that the cost of building such a wall as this, in the United States to-day, would exceed the entire cost of all the railroads in that country. "I never before," said Mr. Seward, "found myself in a position so suggestive of reflection. This great monument tells, in brief, the history of China. Aboriginal tribes of the Mongolian race, forty or fitty centuries ago, left cold and sterile homes in the north, spread themselves over the southeastern portion of the continent of Asia, established there a kingdom, and built up a prosperous and i: » 204 JAPAN", CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. highly-refined state. They were annoyed by incursions and dep- redations from the same northern steppes wliicli they had left behind them, just as England was so long annoyed by incursions and depredations of the Picts and Scots, Danes and Saxons. Chin- Wangti, king of civilized China, built this great wall to protect the country against those nomadic tribes. The completion of so great a work justified him in laying aside the modest title of king, and assuming the more ambitious one of emperor — the first emperor of China. It is not an unimportant consideration that the culmina- tion of the Chinese Empire, marked by the construction of the Great Wall, was coincident with the decline of Grecian arts and arms and with the establishment of Roman empire on the western shores of Asia. The Great Wall served its purpose through the period of fourteen hundred years. But, during this time, wealth and luxury increased in China, while moral vigor declined. An enervated state provoked the rapacity of its neighbors. Kublai-Khan effected a combination of all the Tartar and Mongolian hordes of the north. They forced the wall, conquered and enslaved China. Chinese morals and manners, however, subdued and modified the character of their conquerors. The wall ceased to be needful, because the Chinese and Tartars became reconciled, assimilated, and contented, under the sway of the Mantchoorian dynasty. How little can human foresight ever penetrate the remote future! How little Chin-Wangti understood of the fate of the Great Wall. Is it not well that human power cannot bind or control for an indefinite future the destinies of any nation ? " Occupied with such reflections as these, we took no note of the hours until the shadows began to fall, and the wind became cold and bleak. We descended and sat at the base of the rampart, where we found a dinner spread upon an uneven table of broken granite blocks. " Admiral," said Mr. Seward, " our Government informed me, when I was coming abroad, that you were instructed to show me courteous attentions, if I should be so fortunate as to meet you in Asiatic waters. You have executed these instructions in a manner equally considerate and kind. You not only received me at A LONELY TRAMP. 205 Shanghai with the usual naval demonstrations of respect, but, with your official staff, you have accompanied me, in the character of a protector as well v". a friend, thiough the stormy Yellow Sea, the agitated political scenes of Tien-Tsin, up the tedious Pei-ho, over the desolate plains of Tung-Chow to Peking, and from there to the Great Wall, where we can look back together on the declining power of China, and forward to the coming of AVestern civilization from the shores of our own country to the Asiatic coast." The admiral replied: "I have esteemed myself fortunate, as well as happy, in having had an opportunity of attending you to Peking and the Great Wall — fortunate in having your ripe and varied experience to assist me in forming opinions, and in drawing deductions from what I have seen ; happy in the continual familiar intercourse with me whom it is not only a duty, but a pleasure, to honor. Truly do I hope that your health may continue no less robust, and your endurance no less marked, than in our rough ex- perience together, and that your personal observations in other climes, of other peoples, may not be of less interest and benefit to mankind than those you make here." Our party broke into detachments and all communications be- tween its members ceased. What a lonely tramp did we now have ! At length we reached the half-way coolie station. There the bearers set us down outside, while they went into the huts to re- fresh. Half a dozen men and boys came around the ladies' chairs, and proceeded to examine their dresses, unable to determine whether the habiliments were those of man or woman. Well they might be perplexed. The Astrakhan cap might be worn by either. The long, heavy fox-skin coat and white mandarin boots were equally perplexing. They drew the gloves from oflt' the fingers. These rudenesses were disturbing enough, but at last became unen- durable when they thrust their fingers into the hair, and oftered their filthy pipes, inviting a general smoke. Just then, when the ladies seemed to have passed completely beyond the society of their own race, they heard the shrill voice of a baby within the hut, crying not especially in the Chinese language, but in the universal dialect of infancy, with the response of the soothing lullaby of the mother, 206 JAPAN, CHINA, AND OOCIIIN CHINA. equally nrtural. These incidents reassured the ladies, and showed them that the Chinese are yet human, and they gave over all thoughts of fear and torment. After a march of three more tedious hours, we have reached the same wretched inn which we left this niornin<5. Wo conclude the notes of our journey by mentioning that, a thousand years, more or less, after the wall was built by Chin-Wangti, a second one vas built for greater security, at the eastern end, forty miles south of the original one, both of which remain standing. It is this second wall last built, but similar to and constituting a part of the original system of defence, that we have visited. Ming Toinhs^ November loth. — Resuming our litter, and mov- ing early this morning, we came down from the mountain terrace, and entered a smooth, level, circular plain, seeming more like u bay which indents a high, rochy coast, than the amphitheatre (^f landscape and mountain Avhich it is. The terrace which surrounds the plain was chosen by the emperors of the Ming dynasty for an UATP.9AY AT MINQ TOMBS. THE MIXG TOMBS. 207 imperial cemetery. It is divided into thirteen areas, seemingly of e([iial extent. Each of these areas is covered with luxnriant gar- dens, out of the midst of which rises u magnificent mausoleum, called here a temple, but which is in fact a tomb. Dr. Williams tells us that "Ming" means "bright." The "Bright" dynasty nourished from the close of the fourteenth to the middle of the seven- teenth century. Nanking, for a time the capital, has a cemetery of the earlier rulers of that dynasty. But we understand that it is not so Avell prcGcrved as .this. All the tombs arc of one type. We visited that of Yung Lo, one of the most distinguished of the emperors of China. His decrees of laws and manners, grounded on the Avritings of Con- fucius, with some alteration, constitute even now the code of the Chinese Empire. We sat down here to rest in an ancient grove of persimmons, live-oaks, acacias, and cypresses. "It seems," said Mr. Seward, "that it is not until society reaches a high state of civilization in any country that it learns the absurdity of sepulchral monuments. Great achievements and rare virtues leave an impression upon mankind so deep, that they need no monumental reminder, while the attempt to supply the want of that impression by extravagant art is a mockery." But let us see how the Chinese of the past ages honored their illustrious dead. It is manifest that the device of a series of concentric structures, rising one above the other, is a favorite form of Chinese architecture. This vast monument con<"?.iiiS five courts, one within the other. The structures are two temples, disconnected and distant from each other, but essentiallv alike in design and construction — the outer one serving as a vestibule to the inner or principal one. This inner temple, with its red walls and its plain balustrades and railings, is in form and style quite like the great Temple of Con- fucius at Peking. Its ])roportions are equally grand, tasteful, and sinqile. Its massive yellow-porcelain roof, with its bright grecn- and-gold ceiling, rests upon two rows of wooden columns, of which there are thirty in each — the columns fifty feet high, with a diameter of four feet at the base. Behind the temple and in the fourth court stands an uncovered altar, the top of which is a mono- t1 208 JAl'AX, CHINA, AND CUC'IIIN CHINA. litli muasiirinr^ twenty-two feet by five feet. Directly behind tlio altiir is a pai^oda of three stories. Entering this pagoda throiio], an arclied door, you confront a hirge tablet of red and gold, whie-li covers the remains of Yung Lo. You then ascend not a staircase, but a long and winding inclined plane, some sixty feet, to the sec- ond story. This second story rises seventy feet ; in the centre of this is a smaller tablet, like the one in the iirst story. The thin] story, reached in the same way, is an open space under the roof. Although we observe, in these buildings and grounds, marks of care and attention not elsewhere seen in China, there is neverthe- less painful evidence that the work of dilapidation has begun even here. The path by which we reached the cemetery was an indirect one. Contrary to usage, therefore, we made our exit instead of our entrance by the avenue designed for approach from Peking. This avenue is twenty-two miles long, Avell graded, and originally was paved in the most substantial manner. This road descends from the tomb-covered terrace upon the level plain, at a distance of one mile from the tomb of Yung Lo. Here it crosses a stream or canal by a noble marble bridge, not wholly ruined. This bridge is graced with Mdiat is here called the honorary arch, a majestic gate- way, built not for use but for effect, like the triumphal arches of Rome or Paris. A mile flirther the road leaves the level plain under a similar arch. Having passed these gates, we found the avenue adorned, for the length of a whole mile, by a row, on either side, of gigantic granite figures. AVhoever may read these njfcs will remember that the proper order of these colossal figures is the reverse of that in which we passed them. First, we came be- tween two rows of statues representing philosophers and moralists, four on each side of the way. Then four generals, arranged in like manner on each side, then four priests, then four ministers or statesmen. These figures arc about twelve feet high, their costume Chinese. By their attitude and expression they seem to point with silent homage to the tombs of the great beyond. Kext we pass in review a double row of equally colossal horses, four on each side, two of them resting on their haunches, and two erect ; next ele- PRANKS OF A MULE. 200 |)li;ints erect, and elephants in a sittin<]^ posture ; then canielu gtimding and camels coucliant ; then lions rani])ant and lions asleep ; then buffaloes standing and at rest ; then asses, and at the end rhinoceroses. Here two arches of honor, like those at the other end of tlie avenue, open on uneonsecrated ground. Though the sculpture must have been executed three hundred years ago, it cx'^els much of the statuary found in the public grounds at AVash- ington, and is very etl'ective. Of this we have evidence so strong that we should be afraid to produce it, if there were not a cloud of S.:l * i AVr.NlF. Ti) TIIK Mrsr, TOMDS. witnesses to verify it. We give their names — the Admiral, the (.'onsul-Genernl, John Middleton, Esq., Alfred Tiodman, Esq., and AVilliam Ereeman. Here is the evidence : The lean lead mule (»f ]\Ir. ScM'ard's litter is a large, strong, spirited beast. Although lio liad given ])roofs of this many times by stentorian braying, ex- pressive of discontent and obstinacy, yet he made the journey from Peking to Nan-Kow, and through the sacred groves of the ?,Iing tombs, without any especial fractiousness. But he was oiily reserving himself for a display on tli? grand avenue. Even hero 210 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. lie made no demonstration at the mapiificcnt marble bridi^o. Ho passed meekly under the double arches of lio'ior. lie turned neither to the ri^ht nor to the left, to pay homages to either colos- sal philosophers, generals, priests, or statesmen. lie even passed the recumbent horses on both sides of him witl.out turning his head or pricking up his cars. I'ut the first great stone horse standing erect, on the left, proved too much for the e(pianimity of the mule. Perceiving that statue at a distance of three or four rods, he broke all of a sudden from his lazy walk into a sharp trot, discarding his driver and dragging the rear mule behind him ; regardless that, in the litter which he bore, was seated the venerated chief of our party, he dashed furiously forward to the granite horse, and, throw- ing his head upward, presented his broad, graceless mouth to tlio more stubborn jaw of the statue. The muleteers, alarmed by this strange performance, cried out with dismay, and the gentlemen liastcned to rescue Mr. Seward from being dashed against the figure. IIaj)pily, at this moment, the muleteers seized the brute by tlic head, in the act of saluting his ancient and unappreciative distant relation, and buffeted him away. lie yielded, but not without a shaking of the ears, and an unearthly complaint from the lungs, which left no one in doubt that the animal thought he was unrea- sonably deprived of a just and rational pleasure. Though not yet qualified for comparing the Imperial Cemetery of China with the sepulchral architecture of other countries, we may nevertheless venture to say that the impressive and suggestive avenue of approach, the spaciousness of the grounds, the severe exclusion of all foreign or incongruous objects, the drawling into contrast mountain and plain with ancient groves, and natural rivulets with arched bridges, the magnificence and elegance of the temples, and the simplicity and durability of the memorial tablets, constitute an extraordinary and masterly combination. Wliatever may be the historical merit of the Ming emperors whose ashes are deposited in those tombs, no one can leave the place doubting tliat the honors' they have received here are such as are due to bene- factors of mankind. Novemher V CHAPTER X. LAST DAYS LV I'EKIXO. Cham-Pins-Chow. — A Cliincsc Inn. — The Roman Catholics in China. — The Cathedral. — The Tion-Tsin Massacre. — (-'iiristian Policy. — Interview with Robert Hart. — A Letter from Sun-Tajen and Chi-Tajen. — Letter from Prince Kung. — Interview with the Prince. — The Prince's Present. — Departure from Peking. Pelting, Novemher Ifi^A. — We passed the night at Cham-Ping- Chow, a town of considerable activity. Cur inn was such a one as wc could procure exchisively without giving previous notice. Our ^'uides say there are some that arc better. We are quite sure there are none which can be worse. But, if avc fare badly in Chinese inns, we have the consolation of knowing that wc fare cheaply. We do not know what were the bills of our coolies for man and beast. They could not have been extravagant, for the entire compensation which we ha o paid to them for the journey to Peking to the wall and back again is only ten dollars for each litter and cart. The expenses of our party of ten at the inn was three Mexican dollars for all, of which seventy-five cents was paid for extra fuel for the kang. The impression made on ns, by the conduct of the people who came under our observation, does not go to confirm the helief that they are either hostile or prejudiced against foreigners, while it does satisfy us that they are punctual and exact in the fulfilment of their contracts. The mercury has fallen to 2G°. Novem'ber Vltfi. — By the laws of China, the Boman Catholic religion is tolerated here. That Church has on paper divided the 1 fit ' ' ^ 212 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. empire into bishopries and vicarates. It counts eight bishoprics o more, sixty foreign priests, one hundred and twenty native priests, and four hundred thousand native converts. We visited, to-day, the Cathedral at Peking. It is a line, large, stone edifice, with an adjoining nunnery. The sisters are Freucli and Irish. There is a large number of native servants. It seems quite apparent that converts are obtained as last as the missionaries are able to furnish them employment an.d support, which is an indispensable condition. Native jealousy feeds on a tradition that the spacious grounds occupied by those institutions were obtained without equivalent. Nor djes the same jealousy fail to take notice that the Church arrogates a right denied even to foreign embassies, of using the imperial yellow color in the ornamentation of its portals and walls. Sister Louise, lamented as the noblest and best beloved of the martyrs at Tien-Tsin, had arrived there just before the massacre. The sisters gave us relics of her. What shall we say concerning that terrible transaction ? It is right, just, and wise, that all the Christian nations shall mourn together over the victims, sympathize with the survivors, and unite in demanding such satisiaction from the Chinese Govern- ment as would allbrd security against a recurrence of persecution. But tliis has been already done as fully, it seems to us, as is possible. Tlie Chinese Government has beheaded eighteen of the murderers, has provided for repairing and restoring the demolished buildiiiiis, and paid an indenniity of six hundred thousand taels for distribu- tion to the families of the victims. It has, moreover sent one of tlie most eminent statesmen of China, who is fully conversant with tlie details of the tragedy, to make sirch further explanations and give such further guarantees as the French Government may reasonably deinand. The French minister here, under high excitement and witli threats of war, demanded, besides those concessions, the heads of the two chief mandarins who were in authority at the time tlie massacre occurred. The Chinese Government brought those maii- darins to trial. The charge of eomiilicitv Avas not sustaineil. Nevertheless the Government banished them for life, as a punish- ment for tlitir imbecility. THE TIEN-TSIN MASSACRE. 213 We know that here, as well as throughout Europe and the United States, it is alleged that these proccediugs of the Chiueso Government are fraudulent and evasive ; but we fail to find evi- dence of fraud, nor can we divine a motive for it. It is not to bo furgotten that persecution of Christian missionaries, and especially persecution of lloman Catholic is not exclusively confined to the Chinese. The Roman Catholic Church, with its high ecclesiastical pretensions, its mouastical institutions, and its denial of tlie right of judgment by individual conscience, has come into conflict not only with the pagan systems of Asia, but witli the eidightened civilization of the age. Here, as in Euroi)e and the United States, it has fallen, liowever undeservedly, under pojndar suspicion in two forms : first, a suspicion of political usurpation, that is to say, of an attempt to establish imj)e}''k(m in inq^rw ; second, the sus- picion of impurity of morals in celibate life. In wliich of the Western nations has the conflict between that Cluu'ch and those who dissent from it been carried on without occasional riot, massacre, and martyrdom — not to speak of the religious wars which att-jnded the Protestant Ileformation ? In what Western nation did a government ever otter more etlective or liberal reparation than that which the (Jhinesc Government has given in this case? It is not to be expected that the Protestant countries in the AYest, which have suppressed monastic institutions, and sc(piestered ecclesiastical estates, will symjmthize with demands of France that shall go beyond a guarantee of rights and privileges for all Christians in China. Missionaries of all sects ouglit to re- member that, where the Gospel comes, there "it must needs be that oll'oncos come," nor should they forget that the command, "(^o ye, therefore, and teach all nations," was accompanied by the warning injunction, not less sublime than the command itself, " Behold, I send you forth as slieep in the midst ot wolves ; be yc therefore wise as serpents and harmless as doves." iVoirmher IS^A. — One of the most important incidents of our sojourn hero was reserved for this morning. This was an interview with Mr. Ivobert Hart. Can any thing be more capricious than 15 I; "\ C *j 214 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. international politics? The British and French allies, after havino- pressed the empire to the verge, found it necessary all of a sudden to strike hands with the Government in its war with the rebels, in order to prevent a complete dissolution of society. With their aid, the Government effectually suppressed the rebellion. Then canio the question of reimbursements and indemnities to be paid to the allies. The revenue system of China had become corrupt and effete. The Imperial Government could guarantee nothing. In this difficult conjuncture, a happy expedient was hit upon. The Government, with assurances of protection by Great Britain and France, consented to reorganize its customs revenue upon a Em-o- pean basis, and confide it to the management of a European skilled in finance, who, with a staff of his appointment, half Chinese and half European, should fix a uniform rate of duties on foreign im- ports, collect them, pay the stipulated indemnities to the allies, and the surplus into the imperial treasury. That functionary, under the official title of inspector-general, is Mr. Itobert Hart. While the internal revenue system of China remains in a distracted and dilaj)- idated state, he has brought the customs department into a flourish- ing condition. He returned only to-day from a journey of inspec- tion of the open ports in distant parts of the empire. We found him a far-seeing and able statesman, having in finance, at least, something of the scope and capacity of Alexander Hamilton. Jhit we reserve further remark on this system until we shall have studied its workings in the central and southern ports of the empire. A letter from our old friends Chi-Tnjen and Sun-Tajen. If there is a discrepancy between their names as known to us and their autograph cards, it will be understood that the word " Tajen," which is affixed to their names, is a designation of rank, and not a proper name. Mr. Seward is here addressed, not by that name, but as Sew-Tajen. " To William 1 1. Si: ward — " SiK : We arrived in Peking yesterday, from Tion-Tsin, and had earnestly desired to hasten to you, in order to express to you our great pleas cecdingly bois are altogether to submit a no ourselves befor and procure a i must be done court usage to ceremony, evei could hardly d( " We sincer for r^' your g troublesome to where they wil " We wish 1 November 1 the legation ; residing iu Pc sedan-chaii - an ing a letter was " To William " Sir : I Inn from your tri]> foreign office, a the United Stnt " I hope thi " I bog to u Autograph " Pri> " YlIN " Was LETTER FROM PRINCE KUNG. 215 our great pleasure. But the trip up from Shanghai has been ex- ceedingly boisterous, making us very sick and giddy, so that we are altogether exhausted. Furthermore, we have not yet been able to submit a note requesting that we may be permitted to prostrate ourselves before the throne, and inquire for his Majesty's health, and procure a short leave of absence from the foreign office, which must be done through Prince Kung It would be contrary to court usage to make a visit to you before having complied with that ceremony, even if we were not so completely prostrated that we could hardly do so, in a proper manner. " We sincerely wish to repair to your residence to thank you for p^' your generous and loving acts, which were so great and troublesome to you. But they are indelibly graven on our hearts, where they will remain forever. And how can we forget them ? " We wish that your happiness may never cease. (Cards) " Cnin-KAXG, "SuN-CuiA-Kun." Rovemher \Wi. — On the 17th, international dinner and ball at the legation ; on the IStli, received visits from the foreign ladies residing in Peking, and, our time here growing short, we took sedan-chaii - and returned the visits on the same day. This even- ing a letter was received from Prince Kung. " To William II. Sewakd, etc. '• Sir: I have just heard that you and your party have returned from your trip to the country, and I have, with the officers of the foreign office, arranged to visit you to-morrow, at one o'clock, at the United States legation. " I hope this hour av'^I be agreeable to you all. " I beg to wish you daily peace." Autograph cards enclosed : " Prince Kung, " yuno-suin, *' Was-Ciiang-iii, " Pasyun, " ClIIN-KlOSIFAW, (ll 'Ysu JNO-LUN <J tfj 216 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. November Wth. — At one o'clock, Prince Knng, with the minis- ters of the foreign office, came, having previonsly sent in their cards according to the book of rites. They came in chairs, and were received by the band at the entrance of the court, with a Chinese national air which they had learned for the occasion. The music, although by no means inspiring to us, seemed to please them. Mrs. Low, having iirst provided a table, half American, half Chinese, retired with the other ladies to an inner room, where they could observe, unobserved. The prince is the brother of the last emperor, and uncle of the present emperor, who is yet in liis minority. The government of the empire is in the hands of the regency, consisting of the young emperor's mother and aunt, and Prince Kung. The two ladies take charge of the boy's person and education, while the prince exercises the sovereign political author- ity. All edicts, however, run in the name of the emperor, witliout any notice of the regency except the form of attestation. The female regents maintain strictly the reserve required of their sex, being never seen even by any minister of the government. AVhcn a decree is to be made. Prince Ivung proceeds with the draught to the palace, and announce liis presence before a curtain. The ladies then come behind the curtain, and receive and read the decree. They impress it with their seals. A eunuch delivers it to the prince, who, affixing his own seal, hands it to the "state- printer" in a;; . liter chamber. Before he reaches his department, the deciee is published and in circulation. The prince is tall and well-made, but docs not impress one as especially intellectual. I lis manner is self-possessed and brus(]iio, and he seems, even when practising the highest courtesy, like a person \vho is not accustomed to contradiction or dissent, lie saluted Mr. Seward first in the Tartar fashion, by 'akiug that gentleman's arms and hands into his own, with a friendly embrace. Our learned countryman. Dr. Martin, who acted as interpreter, mentioned to Mr. Seward that this treatment was in striking con- trast with the customary Chinese "touch-me-not" form of salutation of foreigners. The prince then earnestly expressed his satisfaction in the accomplishment of a wish he had long entertained, to see the CONVERSATION WITH PRINCE KUNG. 217 face of his distinguished visitor. Mr. Seward requested him to sit, but he immediately rose, and apologized for his failure in keeping his previous appointment at the foreign office. He said that lie had been, on that occasion, seized with a sudden illness, which had entirely disabled him from business for many days. Mr. Seward : " The anxiety I felt about you is happily relieved by seeing and knowing that you are well again." Prince Kuno : " My acquaintance with your Excellency began with our embassy to the United States and Europe, and I have many acknowledgments to make for the kindness and assistance our ministers received at your hands." Mr. Seward : " Not at all, your Highness. Our Government welcomed that embassy as a harbinger of closer and more friendly relations between the United States and China." Prince Kung : " The relations of the two countries have always been amicable. I trust they will become still more intimate in future. As to our ministers on that occasion, their instructions were, to put themselves very much under the directions of your Excellency." Mr. Seward : " On the arrival of the embassy, I conferred with tlicm concerning the objects of their mission and their powers. 1 then prepared a draught of a treaty, which they amended. When the drauglit, as amended, had been approved by the President, I submitted it by telegraph to Great Britain, France, and Germany. AVlien those nations had signified that such a treaty would be ac- ceptable to them, it was then signed by your ambassadors and by myself. This is the story of the ' P)urlingame Treaty.' " Prince Kung made a profound bow, and exclaimed : " What a pity that Mr. Burlingamo was cut off by so untimely a fate, leaving his work unfinished ! " Mr. Seward : " Mr. P)urlingame"'s Avork was so far accomplished that he exerted an influence w^hich will never cease to be felt in the mutual intercourse of China and the Western nations. The termi- nation at any time of a life which had already bccomo so successful and so useful, cannot be called premature." Prince Kung : " Ah ! if others would adopt the principles ii *i- ■n % '1 218 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. which are practised by your Government, it would be a great ;id- vantas'e to us." Here, at Mr. Low's invitation, the party took seats at the table — the prince at the left, with Mr. Seward next his Highness ; Ysuno-. Lun, senior Minister of the Board of Foreign Affairs, on his right; next to him. Admiral Rodgers. Is ot much attention, however, was paid to the elegant repast. The conversation was immediately I'e- sumed, and continued an hour : Pkince Kung : " How many are your venerable years ? " Mr. Seward : " Sixty-nine. May I ask your Highness's age 2 " Prince Kung : " Thirty-live. Arc you now in the exercise of public functions ? or have you laid down the cares of office, while you continue to wear its honors?" Mr. Seward : " I was in active public life thirty years. I have now given up official duties, and am studying in the way of foreign travel — " The prince did nc'- wait for the end of Mr. Seward's remark, but. misapprehending ^lis gesticulations, said : " I know, without an interpreter, what you are speaking about. It is your painful experience in your conflict with the Southern re- bellion." At Mr. Seward's request, the interpreter told the prince that his guess was wide of the mark, and then gave Mr. Seward's answer. " NQvertholess," said the prince, "I desire to hear from you about the rebellion, and especially about vour escape from assassi- nation, and about the honorable wounds you have received, the marks of which you still wear." Mr. Seward, after a few words to satisfy the prince's curiosity on that subject, brought the question back to Chinese politics : Mr. Seward : " Your Highness, is it the intention of your Government to establish permanent missions in foreign capitals?" Prince Kung : " By all means. We expect to have perma- nent embassies, and we expect to derive great benefit from them." Mr. Seward : " The Japanese Government gave me a letter, which they addressed to the minister whom they have recently sent to China. I would like to deliver it." CONVERSATION WITH PRINCE RUNG. 219 Prince Kuno : " He has not yet coine." Mu. Seward : " Is the Ananiite Empire still tributary to China ? " Prince Kung : " It still continues to send tribute." Mr. Seward : " And does Siani, also ? " Prince Kung : " The Siamese Government sends us tribute once in five years." Mr. Seward : " What is the diplomatic rank of envoys who coine to you from Corea ? " Prince Kung : " That question is not easily answered. The Coreano have gvades of rank, and honors, altogether difiereut from our own." Mr. Seward : " Are the tributes which you receive from those countries merely ceremonial, or do they enter into the revenues of the empire ? " Prince Kung : "We act on the maxim that the envoys of de- pendent states shall come to us lean, and go out from us i'at. They always receive greater presents than they bring." Mr. Seward : " The King of Siam once sent us a present in regard to which we could not act on that maxim. It was a white elephant." The prince took out his wMtch to compare his time with that of the legation, and explained that there is no standard chronometer in Peking. Admiral Eodgers inquired whether the instruments at the observatory are no longer serviceable. Prince Kung : " Observations are still made there, but the instruments are somewhat neglected, and they have become obso- lete." Mr. Seward : " It seems so desirable that the sciences of the "West should be introduced into China that I regret ^'- learn of the difficulties which the university projected by Wan-Siang encoun- ters. I trust that that institution will revive under its new presi- dent, Dr. Martin." Prince Kung : " It was with that nope that we appointed liim, and we have now the utmost confidence in its success. It is bound to succeed." If" i 8; t i i 220 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. Dr. Martin, in Mr. Seward's name, asked the prince and Lis associates to write their names in the ladies' albums. The prince took up the book, and, seeming to assume that it was Mr. Seward's own, wrote these words : " Having already attained so much of wealth and honor, may you also attain to great longevity ! " lie signed this in the Mantchoo character — " Kukg-Ciiiex- Wang." The aged Minister Chin-Lun, president of the Board of Con- trol for the Colonies, wrote : ** May mankind enjoy nniversal peace ! " He signed this both in the Chinese and Mantchoo characters, Tung-Tajen, president of the Board of Revenue, before ic- ferred to in these notes as a poet, wrote, in ancient ornamental characters : "May mild winds and qnict waves, Tranquil seas and pleasant rivers, Speed you on your voyage." Shcn-Tajen, member of the Grand Council of State, next took up the pencil, and wrote : ">May the clouds give you lucky omens. The stars assure you 'lappiness and long life. The opening flowers presage wealth and honors, And the bamboo tube [the mail-bag] only And always bring you tidings of peace!" Repeating and rehearsing these several kindly sentimenft, they rose, took the hands of Mr. Seward and the admiral into their own, bade them farewell, and retired. Novcmher Vist. — General Ylangally again entertained us Avith a breakfast at his pleasant legation. PRESENTS from: TITE MINISTERS OF STATE. 221 This morning four mandarin chairs and six carts, with an un- usual retinue of coolies, appeared at the legation. A messenger delivered to Mr. Seward the cards of the several Ministers of State, including one of "Wan-Siang, together with a present, of which they left the following inventory : One pair of vases. One pair of enamelled eagles. One pair of double-enamelled vases. One pair of carved scarlet lacquer boxes. One pair of enamelled fish-jars. Eight pieces of silk, of various colors. Mr. Seward inquired of Mr. Low what would be a proper form of acknowledgment. lie replied : '• You cannot decline the present. You can only send your card in return, and pay a Mexican dollar to each coolie. Less than this you would be unwilling to do. It would be thought disrespectful to do more." The American and British missionaries, residing at Peking, parsed the afternoon with Mr. Seward. They leave on the minds of our whole party an impression that they are earnest, true, and good men and women. The labor which they are performing in this benighted land fully justifies the Christian charity which has sent them hither. Ever since we came here, Mr. Seward and Admiral Hodgcrs have been diligently laboring to ascertain the feasibility of a return of our party by way of the Imperial Canal. The Government has caused a report to be made to them on that subject. This paper describes many breaches of the canal, but represents them as under- going repair. The Government would provide for our security in the journey, but no shorter period than three weeks would suffice to make it in boats, while there would be many and long land port- ages. It is almost certain that, within that time, it will be rendered impassable by ice. The canal-voyage is therefore given up, though not without much reluctance. CIIAPTEE XI. THE RETURN TO SHANGHAI. Once more on the Pei-ho. — The Ladies at Ticn-Tsin. — Tlic Shan Tung. — Pigeon Englisli. — Tempestuous Weather. — Visit to the Flag-ship Colorado. — Departure of Mr. ami Mrs. Randall. — On board the Plymouth Rock. Tung-C1iO\L\ Noveiniber 226Z. — How could we describe in writing,' the parting at tlie legation, which allowed of no ntterance ! Time, it seems, is not money in junk-navigation. We find at Tung-Chow that our flotilla of little vessels, without a word of engagement or promise on our part, had waited nineteen days. It has been speedily manned and victualled. Its sails are already spread, our flags are unfurled, and we are once more afloat on the Pei-ho. The weather is very cold, but the downward voyage to Ticn-Tsin requires only forty hours. Tien-Tsln, Noveniber 2S(L — Could anybody ask a safer convoy on a river-voyage than a rear admiral ? Could anybody, needing protection on such a voyage, do a wiser thing than trust such a convoy ? " All's well that ends well ; " but, could there be a better joke than that which has occurred to us, under the practice of these prin- ciples ? Boat ^o. 2, bearing the two ladies, accidentally separatiu;;,' from the fleet during the night, came up to the draw-bridge at Tien-Tsin this morning, not only two hours before No. 4 and the other boats, but even three hours before the flag-ship of our gallant "PIGEON-ENGLISII." 228 convoy. There is not only a time for every thing in this world, but there is also a place for it ; but, for those timid adventurers, those two hours were not the tinie^ and Tien-Tsin, with its murky atmosphere, stolid crowds, and horrible associations of massacre, was certainly not the place. Fortunately, the officers of the Ashue- lot found them, oj^ened the way through the draw-bridge, took them on board their ship, and seated them, shivering as thoy were, before a fire in their comfortable cabin. The deck is completely enclosed with bunting — the flags of all nations — and is prepared for a ball in honor of our arrival. The same considerations, which counselled us to self-denial on our up- ;vard way, determined us to forego the pleasing compliment. Thanks to Mr. Beebe, of the house of Russell & Company, for the welcome and comfortable quarters, Avhich we so much needed, after the cold river-voyage. Thanks for his pleasant dinner, and tlianks to Mr. Seward and good Admiral Rodgcrs for lowering their voices after the ladies had left the table, and to the whole party for treading so lightly as they retired for the night. Thanks, more fervent than all others, to the hicky star which has brought our nice, little, rolling Shan Tung, and her spirited Yankee Captain ILiwes, back from Shanghai, just in time to meet us here and con- vey us to that destination. Our last voyage on the Yellow Sea, and her last voyage for the season. If ^ '% Tahn, November 24:th. — On board the Shan Tung, waiting to pross the bar. Would anybody care to have an explanation of wliat is called '■ pigeon-English ? " To the visitor, on his arrival here, it seems an unnecessary and puerile affectation. But this is a mistake. !N^ative agents, servants, and factors, must be employed. They do not understand any foreign language, and foreign residents cannot learn Chinese. A dialect is needed for mutual communica- tion, but it may be limited to the vants of commerce and service. As "charity shall cover a multitude of sins," so in this dialect, one English word is made to cover a variety of things. " Pigeon," to the Chinese ear, means, not the dove, but " business." " Pigeon- English," therefore, means " business-Engli:)h." A few generic mi '■* 224 JAPAN, CIIiyA, AND COCHIN CHINA. names, without number, gender, or case, and a very few active and auxiliary verbs, witiiout variation of mood or tense, eon.stitute tlic whole vocabulary. " AVill this horse kick T' In |)i,ii:con-Eniijli>Ii^ " Horse make kick 'i " " Ask the consul to come here." In i)i<jc()ii- Entflish it is, " Catchec consul, bring come this side." Report, in pigeon-English, "No can catchee consul." " Bring the breakfast, quickly," — " Catchec chow-chow, chop-chop." A similar invention, though not so well perfected, is adapted to facilitate intercourse between foreigners and natives in all newly, discovered regions. The Indian tribes, on the North-American Pacific coast, have a common jargon made up of only two hundred words, a mixture of English, French, Spanish, Indian, etc. The lingua franca of the Mediterranean, a jumble of French, Arabic, Turkish, and Italian, is another such dialect. "Pigeon-English" is now regularly taught in Chinese schools. Since it is capable of in- definite expansion, who shall say that, in the progress of time, a complete language may not be built upon that narrow foundation { Yelloio Sea, of Shan Tnng Promontory, November 2Sth. — The Gulf Pe-chce-lee is a vixen, and the Shan Tung, in a gale, is a nui- sance. Although the morning was soft and genial when we left Taku, the sky darkened at ten, and in two hours we were rollinc; and pitching under a severe nor'easter. Unable to land at Che- Foo, we anchored for the night at Hope Sound. Resuming our voyage, we arrived, at six the next morning, in the harbor of Clic- Foo. But a high sea would not allow us to disembark. Tlie weather has been intensely cold as well as tempestuous for two days and nights, and there has been no rest or comfort. At two o'clock yesterday afternoon, finding a smooth nook on the Ico shore, we came to anchor again, to afl'ord, not passengers, but tlic exhausted seamen, a night of rest. The storm has abated, and wc are now making rapid headway. SJiangJiai, Noveniber 30t/i. — Why take pains to say what every- body may imagine — that we have come back to Shanghai weary, or that Mr. and Mrs. Warden seem even kinder than before, or that VISIT TO THE COLORADO. 225 William Freeman has laid in a stock of '' pii^eon-Enf^lish " which he thinks will enable lis to dismiss our C^hincso servants, or that Admiral llod,ii^ers has determined that the Colorado shall no longer be denied the pleasiii-e of entertaining ns, or that ^Ir, Seward has paeitied impatient friends and countrymen by contradicting rumors which came before us — that the Chinese (Jov(>rnment has oi-ganized an army for immediate Avar, and that Prince Kung refused to re- ceive or meet Mr. Seward in any way ? Dccemher hth. — Yesterday, Mr. Seward, attended by many friends, visited the admiral's flag-ship. Arriving in the harbor of Woo-Sung, we proposed to go directly from our little yacht on board the Colorado. No such hasty proceeding as this, how- ever, could be allowed. The whole ship made gorgeous display of national colors. The etaft-offlcers, in brilliant uniforms, Avero afloat in her steam-launch, and other boats awaiting us. Seamen and marines were ranged on the deck. Six hundred otBcers and men, in regulation attire, were drawn up in line. Our now familiar acquaintances, tlto band, with their brass instruments blazing in the burning sun, stood on the quarter-deck ; and in front of them all was the admiral, tall, erect, and commanding, lie waved us a cordial and graceful welcome. The staff camo alongside, and informed us of the admiral's request that Mr. Sew- ard would remain on the yacht until the party should have been conveyed by the launches to the Colorado. And so it was done. When the party had been assigned proper places, Mr. Seward, coming over the bulwarks, was received by the admiral ; the marines presented arms, the seamen saluted, the guns poured forth a salvo, and the band played " Hail to the Chief! " The officers Avcro then severally presented to Mr. Seward. Then followed an inspection of the ship, which displayed the usual good order of an American man-of-war. A feast was spread in the cabins, to Avhich wo all sat doAvn. The band continued playing until the last guest retired from the table. In taste for articles of virUi, the admiral rivals his professional confrere, the Duke of Edinburgh. Here avo note, by w-ay of s »' ft. A 226 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. parenthesis, in China, whicli is the country of porcehain, that his Wedgwood ware is the finest in the world. A voyage under the soft moonlight brought us to the compound at two o'clock. Mr. and Mrs. Randall, greatly to our regret, being recalled home, we part with them here.' Shangh ', Deeetnber 1th. — ^We are preparing for an excursion on the Yanff-tse-kianar. The admiral and ofiicors took final leave of us to-day. After a pleasant dinner with Mr. and Mrs, Fraser, we repaired, at eleven o'clock, on board the steamer Plymouth Iloek. On hoard ilie Plymouth Each, December Sth. — After all, there is somethins: in a name. Ph mouth Rock, a name identified with the civiliz;.tion of America, now employed to signalize an American regenci'ation of China ! Laboulaye has written an ingenious book describing Paris in America. AViiy shall we not, in ours, illustrate the United States in Cliina ? The Plymouth Rock was built in our own country, and is owned, managed, and sailed, by our countrymen. Such a prom- enade-deck can be found on the great rivers and lakes at home ; but sue', a cabin, such a table, such baths, and such beds, can be found nowiicre. Te knew, when wo looked about this morninir, that no Chinese steward, nor maid-servant, if there be any such, nor any American or European steward or stewardess, had ar- ranged these homelike comforts. Though we saw no woman, wc knew, not only that a woman had been here, but that she lives here. The captain's wife, Mrs. Simmons, is absent for only a day or two. The Hudson and the Mississippi are the only rivers in the world where steamers carry as heavy freights as on the Yang-tsekianj^. If the monopoly of this navigation by our countrymen serves to ex- tend our national influence in China, it at the same time illustrates the absurdity of thctfcar that the Chinese interest will become an intrusive or dangerous element in the United States. ' Aiiliuni, JhJij 20, 1872. — We record with deep sorrow the death of Mr. Randall. lie closed a life of' eniincnt public service nnd piivatc virtue, at liis lesidcucc iu Elinira, yesterday, after his return to that place from a visit to Mr. Seward, here. CHAPTER XII. UP THE YANG-TSE-KIANG. The Mississippi of China.— Ching-Kiang. — Large Frciglits. — Nanliing. — Tlie Porcelain Tower. — A Specimen Briclt. — Abundance of Game. — Scenery on tlie River. — Ku- Kiaug. — Conversation witli Mr. Drew. — Policy of the United States. — Ilan-Kow. — Ascent of the Promontory. — Magnificent View. — Cheerful Aspect of Uau-Kow. — Excursion to Wco-Cliang. — A Disagreeable Adventure. Decernbev ^th. — The Yan<;-tse-kiang has its sources in the moun- tains of Thibet, side by side with those of rivers wliich flow tlirougli 8iam, Ikirmah, and Ilindostan, into tlie Bay of Bengal. In reach- iiii; the Pacitic, it traverses the central region of China, a distance of nineteen hundred miles, which the sinuosities of its course lengthen to three thousand miles. Though this navigation may not bo longer than that of the Mississippi River, extended by the Missouri River, the Yang-tse-kiang greatly surpasses the great American river in depth, breadth, and volume. Often, in its course, it spreads into broad bays or lakes, and, losing its own niune, takes on local ones, just as the mighty St. Lawrence does. In a distance of eighty miles from the sea, the river gradually shrinks from a breadth of some thirty miles t.) that of one mile — the banks level, densely inhabited, and perfectly cultivated. • At midnight we fastened at the wharf of Ching-Kiang, the fiouthern terminus of the Imperial Canal. This popidous and iini)ortant town was nearly destroyed during the Ta-ping rebel- lion. The merctiry had gone down to twenty-eight degrees. A heavy dew was fallin.g. It was no time to go ashore. Our captain I 228 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. left on the wharf three thousand boxes and bales of merchandise consisting of sugars from Southern China, and British manufac- tured goods and opium from India — a large freight, consideriii(» that the steamer is one of a daily line, and that the river is at every point crowded with junks. It looks quite like home to see the numerous and immense timber-rafts floating down from native forests in Thibet. What product does China need to make herself self-sustaining ? The banks above Ching-Kiang rise to a height of one thousand feet. Nanking, on the south side of the river, is in an amphitheatre formed by those hills. This city has historical interest as the capital PBIDOE AT NANKING, AMD POBCKLAIN TOWEB REFORR ITS DESTnUOTION, of the empire before the conquest of Kublai-Khan ; afterward it was occasionally the residence of the Ming emperors. Nanking became famous, still later, as a commercial centre, and rcniMiiied so until the period orable as the va carried the civil the Porcelain Tc iiig emerald, an looked upon Nai bellishment of t workl. But all lion, which endei It seems aim feci for civil wa invariably })rodui dated wall, is litt (inly recognized commerce, but tl land passengers. a large brick whi Seward, thankinf] " One of the who, having a ho as a sample ; bu tliankful for a re Game is one over your head a dozen ji'ieasan (if fowls in Was son, or hare, thai luals affect the here due to the sc Dcceml)cr \{H the river flows s\ lains, one called this strait the ri blufl's like those higher, another _< 16 CITY OF NANKING. 229 until tbo period of steam-navigation. Last of all, it became mem- orable as the vantage-ground from which the Ta-ping insurgents carried the civil war to the walls of Pelving. The pagoda called the Porcelain Tower, which, with its nine successive roofs of seem- ing emerald, and the golden apple on its summit, at that time looked upon Nanking, was justly admired, not only as a chief em- bellishment of the great city, but as one of the wonders of the world. But all this glory has passed away. The Ta-ping rebel- lion, which ended only in 18G4-, proved destructive to Nanking. It seems almost enough to excuse the dread which all nations fed for civil war, when we contemplate the devastation which it invariably produces. Nanking, within its fifteen miles of dilapi- dated wall, is little else than a desolation. The Porcelain Tower is only recognized by its dtlris. The port is not open to foreign commerce, but the Government permits steamers to receive and land passengers. A friend who came on board ])resented us with a large brick which he has taken from the ruined pagoda. Mr. Seward, thanking him for it, said : " One of the minor Greek poets ridicules as a simpleton a man who, having a house to sell, went about showing one of its bricks a? a sample ; but, insomuch as the Porcelain Tower is gone, I am thankful for a relic of it." Game is one of the marvels of the country. On the river it is over your head and under your feet — everywhere. You may buy a dozen p^ioasants, ducks, or snipe, for less thaji the price of a ])air (if fowls in Washington Market. You pay less for wild-boar, veni- son, or hare, than for veal or nmtton at home. Do these wild ani- mals affect the society of semi-barbarian man, or is the abundance here due to the great productiveness of the soil i Dccemler lOt/i. — Two hundred and fifty miles above Nanking, the river flows swiftly through a narrow gorge between two moun- tains, one called the Eastern, the other the AVcstern ]*illar. Above this strait the river winds, and is flanked on the right bank by liliifls like those of the Mississippi atul IMissouri ; a hundred miles hi<fhor, another gorge; near the left bank, a conical islet, four hun- 16* (Ired feet liigh, : the to]), the side Buddhist cloister is named, in the little town of T undulating moui the Po-yang, a 1; which, in some s lifty nules by tlu Four hundrc( a mile. The ha depth, at this ser LITTLE ORPHAN ISLAND. 231 (Ired feet liigli, rocky at the base, but smiling with vegetation at the top, the sides indented with winding terraces bordered with Buddhist cloisters, on the summit a picturesque pagoda. The rock is named, in the chart, ''Little Orphan." Opposite it is the pretty little town of Tung-Lu, with a picturesque wall winding over the undulating mountain-crest. Here the river receives the water of 1 LnTLB OEPnAN ISLAND. the Po-yang, a lake with a "ircuit of one hundred and eighty miles, which, in some seasons, is enlarged to an area of two hundred and iifty miles by the overflow of the river. Four hundred miles from the sea, the river luis narrowed to half a mile. The banks on either side are crowded with villages; the depth, at this season of low water, twenty-five feet ; swollen by the i '1 232 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA, winter floods, it is sixty. Farther upward, villages are less con- spicuous; but temples and pagodas, at picturesque points, broak the monotony. One of these pagodas is a hundred feet high ; all are dedicated to the gods of the Winds and the Waves. At sunset we ca,me to Ku-Kiang, a port open to commerce, on the south side of the river. The foreign settlement, though suiall, is well arranged and conducted ; the Chinese city is contracted and meanly built, but busy. Mr. Rose, of the house of Russell & Co., and Mr. Drew, deputy Chinese revenue commissioner received us. Each of the treaty powers nominates to the Chinese Govcm- ment a certain number of persons to serve as such deputies, under the superintendence of the inspector-general, Mr. Hart. These deputies are expected to learn the Chinese language, laws, and cus- toms. Mr. Drew is an American. While walking in the Bund. he lamented to Mr. Seward that British prestige in China prevails over that of the United States : Mk. Seward : " To what do you attribute this advantage ? " Mr. Drew : " To the superior policy pursued by Great Britain. That nation, as well as France, maintains a habit of demonstration and menace ; the United States a policy of forbearance and con- ciliation." Mr. Seward : " These sentiments of your? harmonize witli those of most of our countrymen whom I have met in China, How many foreigners of all nations have you in Ku-Kiang ? " Mr. Drew : " Twenty-five." Mr. Seward : " How many of these are Americans ? " Mr. Drew : " Two or three." Mr. Seward : " The others, I suppose, are British and French, with perhaps a German or two ? " Mr. Drew : " Yes." Mr. Seward : " I understand that, while the foreign popula- tion at Shanghai is two thousand five hundred, only fifty or sixty of these are Americans ? " Mi{. Drew : " Yes." Mr. Seward : " Have you observed that Great Britain, France, POLICY OF THE UNITED STATES. 233 unci Enssia, maintain in China diplomatic, consular, military, and naval agents, in numbers as far exceeding those of the United States as their national population resident here exceeds that of citizens from the United States ? In short, most of the Americans residing in China are missionaries, are they not ? " Mk. Drew : " Yes." ' ]\Ik. Seward : " Is it your opinion that there would have been in China, to-day, any more American citizens than there are now, it' the United States had heretofore either waged war against China or menaced her in any way s " Mr. Drew: "No." Mr. Sewaru : " You have been here many years. Do yon know of any outrage, or injury, or wrong, that the United States have ever complained of, that the Chinese Government has left un- redressed ? " Mr. Drew : " I know of none." Mr. Seward : " Has Great Britain or France secured to her- self in China any political or commercial benefit or advantage wliieh the Chinese Government has not equally extended, by treaty, to the United States ? " Mr. Drew : " No." Mr. Seward : " The complaints of the superiority of British nnd French prestige over that of the United States in China are of recent growth. They arose chiefly in the period of our late eivil war. You know little of the herculean difficulties of the (Toverinnent in that conflict. Do you think that the United States (Tdvernment, under the administration of Abraham Lincoln or of Andrew Johnson, could have wisely made war, or demonstration (if war, against China ? " Mr. Drew : " No." Mr. Seward: "Do you think that the United States ought to provoke China by any act of injustice or wrong? Do you think that it would be wise for the United States, without provocation, to resort to any policy of menace or intimidation ? Do you think tliat the American i)eople would support an administration in such a policy of provocation or menace, now while they arc submitting X ^ I 234 JAPAX, CHINA, AXD COCHIN CUINA. to such liigli taxation to discLarge the national debt incurred in a civil war?" Mk. Drew : " I think they would not." Mk. Seward : " One question more. If the United States, dui-- ing the last twenty yuars, had pursued a policy of intiniidatioii toward China, do you think that they would have been able, at tlio same time, to draw from this empire an emigration of seventy-live thousand laborers to build the Pacific Railroad, and open the mines in the Rocky Mountains ? " Mr. Drew : " I have not tliourht of that before." Mr. Seward : " "Well, Mr. Drew, I think we are obliged to con- clude from all these premises that a policy of justice, moderation, and friendship, is the only one that we have had a choice to pursue. and that it has been as wise as it has been imavoidable." It is due to Mr. Drew to say that he had received his appoint- ment to bis present place from Mr. Seward as Secretary of State, and that he presented the subject to that gentleman chiefly for tlie purpose of ascertaining how for he had found cause to sympathize, during his sojourn here, with the complaints of our countrymen. Mr. Seward closed the conversation by saying : " The United States are a republic, an aggregation of thirty-seven republics. Of the thirty-nine millions, which constitute the American people, less than ten thousand dwell in foreign countries, and a smaller propor- tion in China than in many other countries. The United States cannot be an aggressive nation — least of all can they be aggressive against China." We reached the steamer and the end of the discussion at the same moment. This was our visit at Ku-Kiang. nan-KoiL\ Sunday^ December l\tk. — At nine o'clock in tiie morning of this blessed Sunday, our steamer forces Iier way to the wharf throui!:h a fleet of a thousand Chinese vessels. These vessels are coastwise junks, river-trading junks, market-junks, fisliing-junks. passage-junks, stationary storehouse-junks, dwelling-junks, and tav- ern-junks. So, after a travel of four months and two days, we have reach(,'d the centre of China. The Ilan, a large tributary, is 'o^ CITY OF HAN-KOW. 235 to the Yao-f^-tse M'liat the Missouri is to the Mississippi. The con- tinence of the two rivers makes the situ for three large cities. Two of these, llau-Kow and Ilan-Yan, are on the opposite banks of the Ilaii. AVii-Chang is on the Yang-tse, opposite the confluence of the two rivers. Practically, the three constitute one city. The foreign settlement, however, is established at ILin-lvow. Marco Polo, in the thirteenth century, found, in Central China; a city on the Yang-tse, which he reported by the name of Klu-sai. lie estimated its circuit at a hundred Chinese miles. This is the (.'itv in which we now are. The good Abbe Hue, who sojourned lare before the dark days of European invasion and domestic rebel- lion, estimated the population of the city at eight millions. While the European residents say that the abbe exaggerates, tliey insist that the present population exceeds one million. The site of Ilan- Kow may be compared to that of St;, Louis. Through the attenu- ated tributaries of the Yang-tse, Ilan-Kow gathers up agricultural, mineral, forest, and manufactured products, from the Western re- (jions of the empire, and distributes them by domestic and foreign exchange through the ports of Tien-Tsin, Shanghai, and Canton. "When one has reached this commanding point, it is easily con- ceived why it is that Shanghai, at the mouth, is so rapidly en- «,'rossing the commerce of the empire. The port of Ilan-Kow Avas opened in 1801. The Concession is beautifully laid out, and built u[) in a rich and costly style. It Is spacious enough for ten thousand inhabitants, while the present number of foreigners is only fifty. There are six foreign houses, one of which is American. The high expectations of increase have been disappointed, not because the trade was misestimated, nor yet because it Vas failed, but, strange to say, only for the reason that the native merchants have learned the respective wants of foreign markets, and the ways of supplying thorn. They are now, them- selves, enjoying the advantages which the European merchants have aimed to secure. Noon. — "We live on shipboard, but wc, nevertheless, arc enjoy lag the hospitalities of Mr. Fitz, at the house of Russell & Company i X mm •■% 23G JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. We attended service, tlii:4 morniiif^, at tlio Cliapel of St. Jolin the Evangelist. It was built for the Church of England, but, having l()>t its Government stipend, the congregation is \inablc to support ii pastor. Prayers were read by a Wesloyan missionary, an amateur choir singing the beautiful chants and hymns in an admirable manner. Decemher \1tli. — In onr exploration, yesterday afternoon, we found that, although " some things can be done as well as other.*," there is, nevertheless, a "right way and wrong way" of doiii<f them. Mr. Fits inquired Avhether we would have chairs sent forvr .rd for our ascent of the promontory, at the junction of the two rivers. The arguments against it were, that mosi persons ])refer walking to the hazard of l)uing carried up the steep hill by coolies. Mr. Sew- ard advised that chairs should be sent, to be used as we should find need. The younger people promptly decided for themselves to dis- pense with the luxury. We went up the river to the base of the promontory in a row-boat {sam-jMii). Thence we made our wav, through a dirty and crowded suburb, up a flight of five hundred stone steps. At this elevation, we found neither platform, bencli, nor stone, to rest on, but only another flight of two thousaiid stone steps before us, with an inclination of forty-five degrees. Mr. Sew- ard took the chair which he had so thoughtfully provided for him- self, and, though his ascent seemed frightful to us, he was borne quickly and safely to the top by two coolies, who neither stumbled nor stopped to rest. The other members of the party followed slowly, and reached the summit completely exhausted. Here, wo availed ourselves of the rest'^ratives of tea and rest, in a dingy Buddhist temple. We might confess now that the view wliicli presented itself amply rewarded the painful eftbrts by which it was obtained, if we could be quite sure that we should recover, in many months, the muscular strength expended. On our right hand, the Yang-tse, a mile wide, flowed with rapid current ; on our left was the Ilan, scarcely eighty feet broad, though its springs are a thou- sand miles distant. The city of Ilan-Kow covers the banks of both ASPECT OF IIAN-KOW. 237 rivers at their junction ; beliind it spreads a vast, low, green marsli, ivory year inundated, and often forcing the iidiabitants to take \x't'n<j;o in boats. At the base of tlie promontory on which we stand, looking down the river, ia the fresh-looking little city of I Ian-Van, enclosed in a neat though not formidable stone-wall ; and, on the opposite bank of the Yang-tsc, crowded with pagodas, palaces, tem- ples, universities, dwellings, barracks, and camps, is \Yu-chang, capital of the province of llu-peh. A thin, blue haze limits tho prospect to an horizon in which a small and lovely lake Hows at tho base of gently-undulathig hills. In contrast with other Chinese cities, Ilan-Kow, including the tlu'ce towns, wears a cheerful aspect. The streets arc regular, and the dwellings, of stone or adobe, arc whitened with paint or lime. From our commanding position we made an effort to secure a care- ful estimate of the population. Our conclusion was, that the num- ber of the inhabitants on land within the three cities is one million. But this estimate left us all afloat as to the mass of the dwellers on the water. It would be as easy to look from the high-road on tho Owasco Hills into the beech and maple forests, that border it on either side, and count the trees, as it would be here to number the vessels of all sizes which throw a dark shade across the narrow channel of the Ilan, and over the left bank of the Yang-tse. "VVo venture to set down the population afloat at a hundred thousand. "Who will correct our estimate ? We were to dine with Mr. Fitz at seven o'clock, but his house in the Bund is sixty feet above the river. The young people who had so bravely stormed the promontory were only able on their return to climb from the sam-pan to the steamer. Mr. Seward carried with him their reluctant apologies. Decemler 12^/i, evening. — An excursion to Wu-chang. Sitting in our sam-pan, we fortunately became spectators of a theatrical entertainment on the bank of the river in Ilan-Kow. We estimated the audience at four thousand, without seats. Standing in rows, one rising above another on the steep declivity, they presented unbroken lines of blue nankeen, yellow faces, and shaven heads. 238 JAPAX, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. The stage was witliout change of bccnc, or scenery of any kind. There was no orchestra, but frec^iient rattling of gongs and drums on the stage. The performers were brilliantly dressed in yellow and red. So far as we could see, there was no breaking up of the performance for time or place. The whole ran on without pause. The actors gesticulated much and grotescpiely, but they drew out tlllNESK TllKATUIiAI.S. from the patient and deliglited audience not one sign of applau^o. We distinguished frequent battles and dances in the play, but tlie dialogue was lost in the distance. After looking on for half ai: hour, we continued our excursion. AVhen we returned three hoiu-s afterward, we found the performance still going on, with no per ccptible change in cither the actors or the audience. Landing at the city into f called the " Lit Its storv, thou<i it into his head her of the drea liiin the erect io hear and obey. We climbed th( Cdufectionery a story. In the liiirh, with loiu iiuistache, and lie sits on the I To speak the tr aspect we have court of a Con and provisions, blind, maimed i aud found its v came out, the ( is no coin in C to the dollar, unaccustomed became import had a few En; cfi'cct than inc: mence. Our view i impressions w the previous dr tlic landing-ph the iirst of that river to AVu-cl much curi()sit\ thousand studc ClIIXESE HECUiARS. iJ39 Liui(li:i^' at "Wu-clianfj, wc asccmled a promontory wliii-li divides the city into two cqnal ])arts. A bri<;lit and variolated pai!;oda, called the " Little Stork," graces the hill above the landing-plaee. Its story, though modern, h charaeteristic: a little golden god took it into his liead one night to ride a snow-white stork into the cham- Wv of the dreaming Taou-tai of the province, and demanded of him the erection of a pagoda in this phace. The Taou-tai said, "I hear and obey," and, when he wakened, "he went and did it." "We climbed the winding staircase of this pagoda. Cakes, tea, and confectionery are served, fortunes told, and " curios" sold in every story. In the upper one is a statue of a little god, about five feet high, with long, slender eyes, smooth black queue, black, waxed mustache, and tunic of bhie and gold. lie smiles complacently as lie sits on the back of a stork, carved in wood and painted white. To speak the truth, he is a merry little god — the only one of that aspect we have met. Leaving the pagoda, we passed through the court of a Confucian temple, thickly crowded with sellers of fruit and provisions, trinket-dealers, vagabonds and idlers, and lame, blind, maimed and loathsome beggars. "VVe looked into the temple, and found its walls covered with texts of the classic books. As avc came out, the crowd around us had formidably increased. There is no coin in China but an iron one, of which a thousand pieces go to the dollar. Of course, we had none of these. The beggars, imaccustomed to being refused the pitiful alms they expected, became importunate and impertinent. One of our servants, M'ho had a few English sixpences, emptied his pockets, without other ctlcct than increasing the number of mendicants and their vehe- mence. Our view from the summit behind the temple renewed the impressions which we had received on the opposite promontory, the previous day. Ilesuming our chairs, we were on our return to the landing-place on the river, when a painful adventure occurred, the first of that kind in our travels. Foreigners seldom cross the rivi'r to "Wu-chang. Our visit was a novelty, there, and excited much curiosity. The town contains a university in which ten thousand students are gathered from the provinces, and it also has 240 JAPAN, CUINA, AND COCUIN CHINA. a military school -with a large garrison. These provincial schools are distinfruished for their bigotry and prejudice against Ibreigners, Our friends, however, had not apprised ns of these facts, nor had they taken into consideration that our party contained two ladic^, who would be objects of special curiosity here, as they were on our way to the Great Wall. A section of the crowd, which had been following us, stopped on the brink ot the hill, from which thcv could look down on the winding path we were descending. Oiu- of the ladies had left her chair, and was walking in advance. Mv. Seward was in an elegant green chair with glass windows ; tlir other lady in a covered bamboo-chair behind. A stone six incliis thick struck the back window of Mr. Seward's chair and shivered it to pieces. A second, as large, entered the same window, and iill within the chair. A third stone struck the top of the last chair. and crushed the frail top. The coolie bearers of the two chairs stopped in a fright, and raised an outcry, directed toward pers()n^ on the top of the clilF. Well they might, for, if either of those missiles had fallen on one of their naked heads, it would have ]iroved fatal. Happily the silken curtains of Mr. Seward's chair saved him from injury. He instantly alighted and turned to tiiul the n<>;ailant. The enemy had, however, lied in consteraation from the hill, and it remained to us only to exchange congratulations upon our escape from a common danger. Though the pe()j)le sur- vounded us in masses, which rendered our passage through the narrow streets tedious and difficult, they made no expression or sign of unkindness or disrespect. Mr. Seward regards the assault not as one of design or deliberation, but as the un])reme(litated and wanton act of rude and mischievous idlers. Nevertheless, tlic gentlemen at Ilan-Kow have aaJfessed the Taou-tai on the subject. Departure from TIr.r ('anal, — Approa< down a .Iiink.— — Enibaik on ai Steamer Ph^ left the wharf at iiii; to Shanghr lost to us by ni; Kow are low a mountains crow DeccDiher !•: approached Ku that we gatherc which we were certain tall n.i ji;la/.ed crowns va^'cs and two frieiuls at horn miliou, the otli At Zuakiuij; willi a cupola of each ornam military school CHAPTER XIII. RETURN TO SHANGHAI. Departure from TTr.n-Kow. — Chinese Military Art. — A Marvellous Echo. — The Imperial Canal. — Approach to Chin-Kiaiig. — The United Stated Steamer Alasku. — llunning down a Junk. — An Apology from the Viceroy. — The Comprador. — Chinese Ladies. — Embark on an Knglish Steamer. Steamer Phjmouth liocJc, Yang-tse-hiang., Decemher \Zth. — Wo left the wharf at Ilan-Kow at daylight this inoniinf^, and in return- ing to Shanghai wo arc expecting to enjoy, by daylight, the scenes lost to us by night in ascending the river. The banks below Ilan- Ivow arc low and flat, with a city at almost every bend, but the mountains crowd closely on the plain. f ft Dcceinler i\th. — Xight and rain came down upon us as wo approached Ku-lviang, but with only this pleasant consequence, tliat we gathered at the dinner-table in our cabin the merry party which we were to have met on the Ihmd. When they had retired, certain tall natives of the country, of course olive-colored, with <j;la;ced crowns and smoothly-braided (pieues, brought two garden- vases and two baskets, each of the latter containing what our gentle friends at home would pronounce "a lov-e" of a tea-set — one ver- iiiiliun, the other blue. Thanks to j\Ir. Rose. At Zuaking is a gleaming white ]iag(>da, one hundred feet high, with a cupola of burnished bniss. It has seven verandas, the roof of each ornamented with bright, tinkling bells. At its base is a iiiilitary school. 1 242 JAPAN, CIIIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. Certiiinlv lailitarv nrt, the Avoi-ld over, deliirlits in fine coliu'c; loud noises, and nuu-h detnonstration. In tlie AVest, however, wu are ;ihatin^ color and noise, while we study to increase force. In China, thev reverse this. They do not improve their engines and weapons; tliey make greater noise with their gongs and a more dazzling display of yellow and red in their uniforms and flags than ever. Naval junks meet us everywhere on the river. Though diminutive in size, and carrying ordnaiu-e of the smallest cali])ro, their hunting surpasses that of a Hudson Eiver steamer going to celebrate the Schiitzenfest, We have just passed a mountain-gorge which has a marvellnus echo, When we entered the pass, the reverberations were single. Passing on, the shrill notes of the steam-whistle came back to us prolonged and louder. Farther on, the mountains gave us back two distinct sounds for each one they received ; afterward three, four, five for one. It was the perfection of ventrilo(]uism. The sounds were articulate; they seemed to come through the earth; sometimes sonorous, at others soft and plaintive, always iniprc:" sive and mournful. Chin-Klang, Dcccmhcp 'ifyf/i. — Anchoring oif the left ]nm\i. of the river in very deep Avater, and taking the ship's boats, we made an entrance, not v.ithout dilHculty, into the Imperial Canal, Take its story briefly, to understand better what little we saw: Built in the thirteenth century, it is a monument e(|ually of the greatness and of the wisdom ol" Kul)lai-Khan, Its length is ,-i.\ liundred and fiftv miles, nearlv twice that of the Erie Canal. Ho- signed for irrigation as well as navigation, it vai'ies in width fmni two liundred feet to two thousand feet. It is not, like our canals, built by excavation, but with artilicial dikes raised on an alluvial soil, its banks and bottom paved and cemented. Instead of locks, there are inclined planes. Every abutment, flood-gate, and 1>ri(l:ii', is of s(did grainte masonry. The ]iii|)erial Canal, like the Kv'w Canal, is not an isolated channel, but only the nuiin artery of a system of artificial navigation, the aggi'egatc length of \\\\o-v parts is four thousand miles, while they })enetrate every ((iic l!^;r:f'':S'^ii :''|;. ,: W^- I*: '/.fv,,: '; : I'' ' -^mi::\M^- colors, er, ^v(J e. Ill es iuid L nuire js than 'lioiiu'h .•alil)re, oing tit •vollttus ' t^iiiifle. k to us us back 1 throe, II. The 3 earth; impres- tank of ,ve made wo saw : of the h is >ix ah De- 1th tVnia r canals, alhivial di' locks, 1 hrul,-.', the Krie [vvy "'t' a )t' whii-c crv one I u to u (f) CO u 244 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. of the eigliteen provinces of the empire. The canal is compactly crowded with junks. We couUl not make our way into it a yard's length, without Maiting for a movement of the vessels for our accommodation. Our appeals to the boatmen for this courtesy were not unkindly received, though tlu^ result was a scene of wild and noisy disturbance. "We soon became con- vinced that, in our small boats, we were in danger of being crushed between junks, even though nothing should occur to pro- duce misunderstanding or disturbance. We returned, therefore, to the shi[)'s deck, as cautiously as possible. In that position we traced the course of the canal " high," though not " dry," above ground four miles. The shipping through that distance wao as dense as at the mouth. The offices of the managers and toll-col- lectors cover the banks, Avhile an armed fleet rides at the mouth of the canal to prevent piracy and smuggling. We learn here that obstructions render the canal impassable for the aggregate extent of one hundred and lifty miles. Even the navigable portions are so much injured as to float only small vessels. The largest we saw aro of one huu'lred and flfty tons burden. Three months ago, when a foreign war Avas apprehended, an engineer subnutted to the Government a project for restv^ring the navigation, but elicited no reply. There is little doobt that the canals of China, the most successful and mac-nificcnt svstem of in- ' til/ land navigation the world has ever seen, are falling into dscay and rum The approach to Chin-Kiang is very picturesque. It stands on a semicircular bay — the western entrance guarded by (lolden Isl- and, on which stand a Buddhist temple and a ])agoda — the easti ni entrance by Silver Island, its undulating surface embellished with tea-houses and villas, December IH^A, 4 o'elocl', — Wo are passing from the br<i;u^ estuary into the AVoosung. Farewell, Yang-tse, worthy, from thy length and breadth, to be called " Son of the Sea," though the critics learned in the Chinese 'anguage deny thee that signiflcant appellation, and mention (hat Yang-tse means something else. Shanghai^ L passed the Colo Shanghai, the P among the forei iinanid her in all liv.aiting a laum stcaniship-of-war were in the act o (leek, she rode ov cross her bow. ap])eared on eitln jiuilv was freiu'h clinging to the s stniggling in tlu jrines, threw out nately, at that m farced by Chinei unable to discov( saddened our reti Beccmljcr 17// survivors of the m plaiits against tlu is engaged in exa: '■aptain of the Ah the l)ar before eb had time to clear rnick, they esj)ie ilarin lest they IliCM'r course and f We have arrar Shanghai, Dec toll. E. Ilobson, "I am in rec( visited Wu-Chan< 17 SrANGIIAI. 245 Shanghai, December ICdh, night. — Quite to our surprise, we passed the Colorado, still at her anchorage. As we approached Shanghai, the Plymouth Rock took a berth far out in the stream among the foreign shipping, busy junks and sam-pans darting around her in all directions. While standing on the steamer's deck uv;aiting a launch to convey us to the bank, the United States steaniship-of-\var Alaska came rapidly down the river. As we were in the act of exchanging compliments with the officers on her deck, she rode over a Chinese junk which was madly attempting to cross her bow. An instant afterward the two parts of the junk apjieared on either side of the iron-clad. With how many lives the junk was freighted we could not know, but we saw living men clinging to the sundered parts of the wreck, and other living men struggling in the water. The Alaska j romptly reversed her en- i.'ines, threw out life-preservers and lowered her boats. Fortu- nately, at that momeni, a steam-launch from the Colorado, re{;n- t'oi'ced by Chinese sam-]ians, went to the rescue, but we were unable to discover with what success. The painful incident has saddened our return to Shanghai. Dcccinhcr 17th. — We learn from the consul-general that the survivors of the wrecked juijlc hastened to tl\e consulate with com- piaiits against the Alaska, and that he, as well as Admiral Rodgers, is engaged in examining the circumstances of the collision. The raptain of the Alaska represents that he was liastcning to get over the bar before ebb-tide ; that the junk was crossing his bows, and had time to clear herself, l)ut that, as her crew advanced on their track, they espied the Plymouth Rock coming up, and, taking ilarin lest they should come under her wheels, they stopped in their course and fell under the keel of the Alaska. We have arranged to sail for IIong-Kong on the 22d. Shanghai, December Vdth. — Le-ming-Chc, Taou-tai of llan-Kow, toll. E. Ilobson, assista .t in charge Ilan-Kow customs: "lam in receipt of your note informing me of your having visited Wu-Chang, with a party among whom was his Excellency 17 t 2iG JArAX, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. AVilliam II. Sewavd, on which occnsion you were nspnilerl hy a disonlerly nK)b of boys, and your sedan-chairs broken. The pru- ceediu^- was most indecorous. I am iiilensely grieved that his Excellency, the American Secretary, should have met with such an insult on the occasion of his visit. I respectfully re<|uest you u, convey to liis Excellency my ])rofound regret for what has taken place. I have duly instructed the AVu-Chang nuigistrate to issue procLanuitions to prosecute the offenders. " Intercahing, tenth moon, twenty-tirst day." S/ianr/hai, December l^^tli. — The compmiloi^ in China, is a char- acter as incomprehensible as important, lie is a native trained in accounts and trade. Employed by the foreign hoiuj^ (mercantile houses) as book-keeper and accountant, he adds to these functions that of the broker, who buys for the firm, and makes all its sales. In these transactions, he receives connnissions from both parties. "What is more singular is, that he maintains this duplicity of rela- tions without suspicion of dishonesty. The cotapvador does not confine himself to mere trade, he is indis[)ensai)le in all domestic and social transactions, lie negotiates nuirriages between parties who never know nor see each other until the contract is completed. Russell k. Company's comprador^ to-day, paid his annual visit to Mr. Warden at the Compouiul. He brought his wife and her twn handmaidens, presenting the latter, liowever, as his wives, numbers three and four ; a})ologizing for number two, who remained at home. Also, two daughters-in-law, one child, and six attendants. The women, of course, came to pay their res})ects to ]\[rs. Warden. The comprador desired to make his homage to Mr. Seward, and the women re(piested an introduction to the ladies of his party. There was ditficulty, at first, about the women coming into ^Iv. Seward's presence, but it was overcome. The Avives and the boy shook hands with us (juite in the American way, but evidently not with- out concern for their finger-nails, some of which were quite as loiiir as the fingers that bore them. They were elegantly dressed, wear- ing a profusiitn of jewels, and were very timid. As they spoke no English, and we no Chinese, nothing remained Ibr them hut to study our dresi eles of vertu i these on the fi Tlie grand staii tiny feet, each i HUist not be a 11 "such a gettin lieen amusin<r, thorough and i they descended They then liste: Calling, then, fo kss to describe, mysteries and ab visit, the compn children with al key-cock. As w our arms, up an; v.iioed indood, pendcnce was t the abasement o Steamer Tra. nttendod us to th lialconies, the co For the first Travaucore, nam • 'f Malabar, beh steamers, usually The familiar '^he had sailed, ]>ressiiig our !•(_.<, passed the bar. tlag-shij) before streamers fiying, every yard fullv THE CHINESE COMPRADOR. 241 >tn(ly our drosses and ornaments, as well as the furniture and arti- (k's of vertu in tlic driiwing--ro(»m. AVlien they luid exhausted those on the first-Uoor, they desired to explore the second story. The grand stairway is broad and easy, but, as all these women have tiny feet, each re(|uired a stnmi; arm in makiui; the ascent, but that nuist not be a man's arm. The ladies, therefore, oifered theirs, and " such a getting up-stairs, you ne\x'r did see ! " It would have liecii amusing, if it had not been reallv dangerous. After a thorough and minute inspection of the ujtper part of the house, they descended the staircase with much nervous a})prchension. They then listened wonderingly to our music on the piano-forte. Calling, then, for their gorgeous sedan-chairs, they retired, doubt- less to describe, to their small-footed and long-fingered friends, the mysteries and absurdities of AVestern fashions. During their entire visit, the comjjrador had directed the movements of his wives and children with all the vigilance and conscious superiority of a tur- key-cock. As we assisted the W(tmen, or rather carried them in our arms, up and down the staircase, bright-eyed, gentle, and sweet- v.iiccd indeed, but dwarfed, distorted, and enslaved, their de- l»cndence was touching. AVe had not before realized the depth of the abasement of women in China. % Steamer Tmvancore, China Sea, Deccinher 22(r7. — Many friends ntteiuled us to the steamer, and kiiullv signals were made to us from halconies, the consulate, and the shipping in the harbor. Kor the first time in our travels, we are on a foreign deck. The Travancore, named froni a ])rovince in British India, on the coast (if Malabar, belongs to the " Peninsular and Oriental " line of sti'aiucrs, usually abbreviatod the " P. and O." The familiar berth of the Colorado, at Wusnng, was vacant. She had sailed, an hour before, for Nagasaki. AVe were still ex- pressing our regret that we were to see her no more, when we passed the bar. Staiuling southerly, however, wc saw the majestic tla;;-sliip before us, at rest in the open sea, with all her flags and stivauicrs flying, the admiral and officers on the quarter-deck, and uvcrv yard fullv nuinned. Three hearty cheers greeted us from her 4 U I » 1 248 JAPAN. CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. six hundred seamen, her colors dropped, officers and men sahitoi] us, and the faithful band gave us for farewell the same old national air with which it had greeted us on coming into Chinese waters. The Ti'avancore lowered her fiag.s, and every officer and passeiitrci joined us in acknowledging the kind and loyal demonstration of the Colorado. SCENE UN TUE LMPEUIAL CA2<AL. nnil Weather.— Cold iron<;-Kong. — Ijc cigu Population. On hoard tJi more of the Chi Sea of Japan, tl I!ay of Yeddo, i A bleak woy to the cabin as g (luring tlie day, seasrouglier, anc ing. This cold the high M-inds equallv oblige fi iiappened that narrow sea divic continent. K^ j^iirrounded with ^Vo mark a n men, on the Pa( arc in the coastu oly is broken hej showed many CHAPTER XIY. FROM SHANGHAI 10 HONG-KONG. D:ul Weatlicr. — Cold Weather. — Variety of Seamen. — The Ship's Acconi :',da ' ns. — IIonj;-Kons. — Beautiful Scenery. — Old Ac(iuaintance3 renewed. — Nativj a For- eign Populiition. On hoard the Travancore^ Christmas-Daij^ 1870. — Gi o us no more of the China Sea; give us, histeau, the Paci'*' • Ocean, the Sea of Japan, the Yellow Sea ; give ns any water, if iC be not the I'ay of Yeddo, and any Gulf, hut the Gulf of Pe-chee-lee. A bleak ^iiortheaster, with rain, wind, and darkness, drove us to the cabin as soon as we had parted with the Colorado. "When, during the day, the decks dried, the winds grew higher and the seas rougher, and we have remained prisoners below, until the morn- ing. This cold weather, on the verge of the tropics, is a surprise ; the high M'inds compel the native shipping to hug the coast, and equally oblige f(.»reign vessels to keep away from it. Thus, it has happened that we have seen neither ship nor coast, although a narrow sea divides the great island of Formosa on our left from the continent. Xow that we arc approaching Hong-Kong, we are surrounded with native craft. We mark a new phase in tliis navigation. AYe found the sea- men, on the Pacific niail-stcamer (-hinn, chiefly Chinese ; so they are in the coastwise trade of the Yellow Sea. This Chinese nionop- olv is broken heie. At the ship's muster this morning, the ranks showed many variations of physiognomy, with all shades of dark -J i ooiiii)lexi(>n. f vollt)W C'liiiit'ise; Hindoos, iiliiiosl hair; and stroi South Africa. less diverse. Muhaininedans. ut' tiiitli, as well dress as on slu week-days, wliic ton trousers an^ sashes, and tnrl eiuhroidered, scf white shirts, an the iJjaycst of eo The ship's a( of the Puc'itic '^. Tlu)u<?li the tab and the linen is otiicors and scar Hong-Kong, Great Britain h.' It rises more ah in [he West In( We anc'hori shipping here tl the hill-sides s structure of tin in the harbor, \ mas-greens. \ tive here of Rii princely honse. been kindled tl ing escaped at memoranda, sit ARRIVAL AT nOXG-KONG. 251 I e()iii[>lexi(ni. Of Europeans tliero are none; besides the li^-lit- vi'IIdw Chinese, there are the darker ^lalays ; small but aetive lliiidoos, aliiuist bhiek, with pert'eet Caucasian features and eurliiij^ luiir; and strun^ly-built, heavy-featured, coal-bhu-k ne<::r()es from South Africa. The langiuiii;es and religions of the crew are not less diverse. There are I>raniins, Buddhists, Confucians, and Muhannnedans. AVhile uniform discipline is enforced, ditferenco of faith, as well as of diet and costume, is tolerated. The Chinese dress as on shore. The Hindoos wear a gay cotton blouse, on week-days, which they exchan<^c on holidays for tijj;htly-titting cot- ton trousers and blouses of the same material, scarlet or crimson gaslies, and turbans. The Hindoo boatswain adds to this a gilt- embroidered, scarlet vest. The Malays wear calico pantaloons, with white shirts, and the negroes, here as everywhere else, indulge in the gayest of colors. The ship's accommodations do not compare fiivorably with those of the Pacitic Mail Line, but here disparaging criticism must end. Though the table is frugal, the wines and provisions arc of the best, and the linen is unimpeachable. The service is punctual, and the otiieers and seamen are courteous and watchful. 11 t 11' ':;:!,; Ill I ITong-Kong, December 2(jth. — IIong-Kong is an island, which Great Britain has conquered, and commands the entrance of Canton. It rises more abruptly from the water than the island of St. Thomas in [he West Indies. We anchored at three o'clock yesterday. There is far less sliipping here than at Shanghai. The terraces which wind around die hill-sides show distinctly in bold outline every dwelling and structure of the European town, which, as Avell as the foreign ships in the harbor, w\as yesterday gayly decorated Avith flags and Christ- mas-greens. We were received by Mr. Murray Forbes, representa- tive here of Russell & Company, at Kee-Chung, the name of their princely house. We founi fire on the hearth, the first which has been kindled this season, and the people here are rejoicing in hav- ing escaped at last the intense heat of summer. We make these memoranda, sitting in a deep window of this great, old-fashioned r 252 JAPAN, CUINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. dwelling, shadowed by the mountaiii-suiniuit, while an unclouded morning sun brings the town below into broad relief, and beyond it the deep, blue bay dotted with diverae shipping. A high, rod, rocky coast bounds the prospe t. Inuigine such a picture as we have tried to i)resent, seen as we are seeing it through a frame- work of palmetto, banyan, camphor, and acacia trees, and you have Hong-Kong. December 'i'th. — Resting, Mr. Seward has exchanged visits witii the Governor of IIong-Kong, and the United States consul, Mr. Bailey. AVe are renewing old acquaintances with countrymen and countrywomen. Our departure for Singapore is lixed for the 3d of January. We need, therefore to improve our few remain, ing days in China. The British found five thousand natives on the north end of the island. Under the rule of Great Britain, they are now a busy and prosperous community, nund)ering forty thousand engafred in trade and the fisheries. The foreign population is perhaps one thousand. TBADtNO-JtJNK. OHAPTER XV. FROM nONG-KONG TO CAXTOX. The Chinese Coastinf^-Tnule. — Chinose Smugfilers. — Canton Rivoi-nanks. — Aspcet of Canton. — Tlio liritish Concession. — Tiio Anicriean Ilonp.s. — Tlie Consul and tlio Taoti-tai. — Tlie Diet of the Cantonese. — Manufactures of Canton. — The Temples of Canton. Canton, Dcccmhcp 2f>th ; Steamer Kin-San. — Aiucricuii side- wlieol steamers carry the foreign coasting-trade between Ilong- Koiig and Macao westward, IIong-Kong and Canton northward, and Hong-Kong, Swatow, Aiuoy, Xing-po, and Foo-Choo, on the eastern coast. "We occnpied, with two friends, the saloon and ni)pcr cabins of the Kin-8an, wliile the hiwer deck bore four hnndred Chinese, cliictly traders, who i)ay a fare of a IMexican dollar for a voyage of ninety miles. The pnrser brought us the box which contained the collection of dollars for this vova2;e. Many were rejected. The coins were genuine, but almost every piece had been clipped. The deliciency was made up in " cash." From the deck, we noticed a native trader, who at intervals advanced to the bulwark, and threw into the Avator small bunches of hay and straw. Wo observed that, in every ca.- . natives rowed from the shore in small boats, and picked up this refuse. Our friends, who knew the trick, informed us that the bunules of hay and straw contained packages of opium. Another trader dropped a sealed bottle into the river, A jiartncr, who was waiting on the bank, took it up and found in it the prices 254 JAPAX, CIIIXA, AND COCIIIX CHINA. current of o]>iuin at London. SmuirgHng wears only this tliln coverintj in (,'lnna. Onr course for forty-five miles — half our vovaije — lay amonir p(>a- islands, ^'ivin<j^ us only occasional gliinjises of the main-land. AVo then entered the narrow channel of the deep river, promiscuouslv called the Xcvtu and the Canton. The hanks are lined M-itli tlic "■ Dogue" forts, before the " Opium AVar " reirarded l)y the Chinese as a reliable defence. The victors stipulated that tlicsc forts sliali not a^ain be garrisoned. They are now falling into ruin. Thus Cantoi); the southern capital of China, is absolutely defenceless, MJtli a British naval and military station at its very door. Might n(»t Christian merchants in the East be content with this? Whamjxm, some fifteen miles t.own the river, is the outpost of the foreign trade carried on at Canton. The river-banks below AVhampoa are dull and monotoimns. Above that ]ilace they present scenes of trojiical luxuriance and beauty. The vallev expands, and is covered with sugar-plantations, banana and orange groves, and the surroundiui;' hills are crowned with pagodas. Canton stands on the right hank of the river, but projects in long suburbs over the ojtposite shore. Ts either Nagasaki, nor Yok<»hama, nor Osaka, nor Ilan-Kow, luir Tien-Tsin, nor Shanghai, nor IIong-KdUg, nor Peking, gives the stranger so effective an impression of a great city. AVe moored at the wharf in the midst of a floating city of three hundred thousand souls. Canton, lilce the surrounding provinces, is traversed by canals, which bring to its >^harvcs passengers in immense numbers from all parts of the empire. The inventive talent, as well as the frugality of the Chinese, is in nothing more eons]>icuous than in the provision which is made for these wayside travellers. There are blocks and streets of gnyly-painled and deco- rated fl(»ating inns or taverns, shops i'or supplyirg all wants with- out the delay and cost of going ashore. Our passaj','e th"ough these wimling streets and alleys gave us some odd revelations of marine life. All manner of domestic occupations are carried o\\ without fear of annoyance, or affectation ot" privacy. (Jhins j^ro shaveu, (pieucs arc ])laited, dinners arc cooked and served, clothes are niado, washed, and mended, children are dressed, whipped, and ])iit to II. Seward, f( THE Tor-TArs note. 255 liL'il, tliiit is to say, laid on a niiit and fastened with a cord aivound tliL'ir waists, and tied to a mast to keep them from falling overboard. Kvcn ''iield- sports" arc not wanting. A favorite exercise of this kind is the chase of the wharf-rat. "We saw one caught, skinned, ^jiitted, and i)ut on charcoal. This amusement is pursued chiefly l.v Women and children. The ilshing with cormorants is a vocation vl' a large class. ()ur party had no sooner reached shore, than it broke into fac- tions. The younger members extemporized a guide and boat, cntssed tlie river, and were soon lost in studying carved ivory, t-licll, and sandal-wood boxes, pagodas and toilet-cases, and orna- iiieuts of gold, silver, jas})er, and jade. Mr. Seward, more politic, visited the British Concession. If they found the fabrics of Canton iiKirc e.\(piisite than they had imagined, he found the f(jreign settle- ment more spacious and elegant than the peoph> of Shanghai and Jlong-Kong allow it to be. There are thirty or forty spacious t'oreign hongs, an ]"][)iscopal church, built of white marble, and a (liib-liouse with a good libraiy and l)illiard-room ; on the bank, a jn'oiuenade, handsomely-ornamented with gardens, wliich rejoices in the name of Cha-min (rfand-face). The American houses, Knssell vfc Comjiany and Smith, Archer <k Company, finding that the accpiisition of title by Ann ricans wiliiin the Ih'itish Concession was attended with some uncertainty, have rel)uilt their old factories in the Chinese city outside the Con- cession, and we are here the guests of those well-known hongs. to f \ IWc'/nher 2'^t/i. — Archdeacon Crey is a pliilo-Chinese. lie has resided hero nineteen years, and he kindly otl'ers us his invaluable assistance in the exploration of Can* on. Meantime, the United States consul, anticipating that Mr. Sew- ard would esteem it an act of becoming courtesy to call on the Tauu-ta' of the province, addressed a note to that functionary. lie remitted to the consul the following well-argued and most coueUi- sive answer: "In answer to your note stating that the Honorable William II. Seward, formerly Secretary of State, having visited Peking, and t t ' 25G JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. called at the foreign office there, had arrived in Canton, and pro- posed to appoint a time to call, etc., I have to say that, considerinrr his Honor ScAvard has laid aside his office, and therefore there can be no consulting upon public business, and as the foreign office h;i.s sent no notice of his coming, it is not convenient for us to see and look each other in the face. " Please inform his Honor Seward, the great officer, that it will be of no use to come to my office. This reply with my best compli- ments, niy name and my card." The consul, we know not how justly, attributes this decision of the Taou-tai to a public misunderstanding between himself and tli:it officer, which hail arisen before our arrival — the Taou-tai feariiii: that an interview with Mr. Seward might produce some poi>ul;ir jealousy. Canton is a sphinx, serenely indulging in calm recollections, and seeming to smile with e(pial contentment on time and change. AVi; have interrogated it. How shall we be able to record its responses. The city covers a very large plain. Some of the streets are Uii feet wide, they average seven; all irregular and without a plan. They are travelled chiefly on foot, but almost everywhere sedan- chairs can be used. Paved Avith Hat granite blocks, the sewerage is concealed, and in this one Chinese city there is no want of publ' cleanliness. An untidy person is as rarely seen in the streets hei as a tidy one in the streets of Peking or llan-Kow. Occasionally, we passed a dwelling, pnlatial in its dimensions and end)ellishment, but, generally speaking, the city ju'esents nu-rely a mass of shojis. The floors are on a level with the streets, the houses without veran- das or porches, and entirely open in front. 1'he buildings arc narrow, usually of one story, often twenty feet high, and carh has an attic. It is a Chinese ]n'ovorb tliat " ill-luck follows ridge- benms which connect with each oilier in a c<»ntinuons line." Hence tlu) roofs are (»f uneipial height, and the boards which jmo- ject from them over the streets, to i)rotect travellers from the smi ami rain, are irregularly ])laced. Tlu; material of the fragile walls is dark-brown brick. Every one knows that the Chinese write from right to left, and in downward columns. The sign-boards, painted pro- o w tn r I - i 258 JAPAX, CIIIXA, AXD COOIHN CVlllA. ill ricM vermilion or gilded on dark blue, iustcnd >; ')(iiur,'li'iri/oiili], luiiig pci'pondit'alarly, everywhere obstructing Mio passenger. Tjio shops are gorgeously ornamented. llelmbold's \ iiteiit-modi-iiie shop on Broadway would not be out of place here. There are no street monumentj?. The streets are often short and curved, they branch at all angles, and sometimes are continued through very narrow gates or mere door-ways. It th'is happens that there is m* long vista, and Canton is a labyrinth, which only one who i< prac- tised therein can thread. It is divided into quarters for the accom- modation of divers kinds of business more completely than any Euroi)ean city. Bankers have their exclusive Wall Streets ; the mercantile shops aro in districts removed from manufactories ; em- broiderers, silk-weuv'ers, cotton-weavers, lapidaries, jewellers, and carvers, have sei)arately their own (piarters. Only vegetables, fruits, iisli, meat, poultry, and game, are dis})layed everywhere. The dwellers in (juiton are epicureans. They have tish from the rivers and lish from the sea — veal, mutton, venison. ;)Igs, kids, ducks, geese, grouse, j)heasants, (piails, and ortolans, Whatevci" they can serve you at the Astor- House, you can command here— ay, more than can be found oi> the Astor- House carte ; for, in the midst of the temj)tiiig display 1 the provision-shoj)?, are seen the carefully-dressed carcasses of infinite rats and unmi:-t:dvab)c twaddles of dogs, while here and there you n(»rice in the shop-windows a ])hicard which announces that "black eat is served hot, at all hours." A decoi tion of sua -■ • ; sold as a medicine. As we were ])assing a small lake, a boy wi our train waded waist-deep ami brought out a water-snake. We urged iiim to tlirow the un- fortunate reptile back, but he declined, and, bruising its head, he l)ut his linger to his mouth by way of informing us that it was to be his supper. Rope is made here by the same process as among us, but a greater variety of materials is used. Besides hemp, they work baml)oo, ratan, and tanned and untanned hides. A primitive i)rocess is resorted to in Ideaching. The operator tiilces clean water by tlie mouthful and spurts it over the fabr'". Calendering is lone as it was in Euroi)e before the invention of LACQli-ER-WARE, 250 liK Jura inachiiiery, Tlic doth is ]);issed under a fetono rolb.r wliich the operative rocks with his toot. The /^lot^s j»rodu^ed is unoiiaalled. "We entered a tlourinu uill — a blinded eow, at the end of a sliat'r, moves eacli of the seven [»airs of stones. The oiieration is perfect, and the fininials seem sound and healthy. The human foot moves the winnowing and boltiiiij; processes. No stranjjer could conceive the excellence or the cheapness of artistic ])roduction. Mr. Seward, fancying a carving of sandal-wood suitable for a door-wav, valued it at three hundred dollars. It was uli'ered him at sixteen I It can hardly be believed that the extensive manufacture of silks in China is carried on without the use of the " Jac(juard " Iduui. The workshop is without a floor. The primitive hand- locin, with the operator's bench, is i)laced in an excavation. They insist here that the moisture of the ground Imparts a ]'<»rcelain gloss to the silk. Silk-cndjroidery is the most important numuiacture. This toilsome and exhausting labor is performed exclusively by men, instead of being devi'lved on delicate women, as in European countries. We bought, at nominal j)rices, articles which Avould have a fabulous value at home. Lac(]uer-ware is made, though less extensively than in Japan. This is the process: A frame of the required article is made of thin wood or veneering perfectly seasoned. This frame is covered inside and out with soft silk-])aper, made to adhere smoothly by use of a u'lutinous solution. AVlicn the paper has perfectly dried, a coating of pulverized granite, mixed in a tine oil, is spread over tl.e surface. This granite i)aste hardens in its turn, and n(»w the process of iac'(|uering begins. The lacquer is a vegetable jince im]><irted from India in earthen jars, and, when fresh, is milk-white ; wlien exposetl to the air, it thickens and becomes black. It is aj)plie(l with a hnish and left Ui dry. No less than eight successive coats are put on, sometimes more. The Chinese, in speaking of a fool, use the jiroverb that "he wants the ninth coating of lac(juer." After the lii('(pierijig is comj)leted, the ornamentation, usually in vermilion and gold, takes place. Professional artists make the designs in [10 rib rated paper. r '1 I 00. I 200 JAPAN, riFIXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. A lai\<!:o district in the citv is devoted to the iiKuiutUcture anil ;de ot" oniaiiicnts in jade. A Cliiiieso j^'allant, speakinii; of a I'kIv, fsavs she is "as heautilul as jad( We failed to understand tl secret of its value until infoiincd of the lirnuiess of its texture. .\ )>iece ol" this stone, weiiihiui:' live pounds, has tiie dull aitjiearaiice' of a coninioii pchhle. It is sawed into }»hites of the recjuired tliii-k- iiess hy the use of a tine wire nii»\ed by liand. After this, turuiiii;'. lathes and lai)idaries' instruments are eni])luycd. AVith these it i- shaped into tin^er-rin<;s, ear-rinucs, bracelets, ban<::les, buckles, cups, vases, and tlie like. The best jade is that which sliades ironi inilkv white to cli'ar u'reen. We notice that women of the hi^-her class "svoar a hind of orna- ment peculiar to Canton. It consists of a head-dress or cap, brace- lets or fim!,vr-l•in^^s, made of iilaii'ree ,irold, delicately enamelled wiili tlie l)lue kinu'lisiier's feathers, and lieavily studded with pearls and ucms. .\moii<r temi)les, m'o visited first tliat of Pak tai (tlie l)ra<xoii\ u Taoiii;.tic deity. The dra_i;(»n is one of the sacn-d eml)lems of (.1iiii:i. Uefore that emblem stands a shrine, and below this a livinir I'cp- re-ontative of the monster in the shape of !i pretty little brinht- i:reeii snake, ^\ Inch c(»ils in the i.'anchcs »»f a dwarfed tree, cultivated in a small <rarden-va.se. Incense is oll'ered o<{nally on the shrine of the < arved <lra<:!;on, and before the livinn; I'epresentation in the tree. The olfer iuu's ai'e such th le snake does not disdain, hut su< h as the fabled draijon |)erhai)s niii-'ht not thank his votaries for. They con-i,-<t of tea and eii'iis. AVlien merchants contract partiicr- !lii[)s, (»r masters and ai)])rentices execute indentures, riiey lirinu- en_u'ros.'-"Ml co])ies ■•' the covenants, and burn them willi inccii>c under the tree. In this way they brin<>j the contents of the articles ?o theii-Hcc of the uod for his approval and blcssiui!,'. A\'lieii the eohhv'.i'ts Ii ive been fully ]>erformed, the parties como a<:;ain to the ])resenco of ''le sacred snake, and with solemn reli<j:ious ceremony declare nuilnul acquittal ami satisfaction. '".Holy water " is con- stantly ke])t in vases, from which it is carried away in ])hials for tlio curiuiij I'f diseases. AVlien a second atlliction tails on a bereaved familv, it indicates tliat the s;rave of the deceased relation i- an unlucky om-. I tjii- water, and t this temple we { ,Jm\v is filled wi ,)f every j>attern ;ii,'os with a pra Hild to mourner.- lifviiii; that in material substan Of the \)iu\i It is, with its e\i "Ocean IJanner jtcfiii'e. Spacio TEMI'LK OF llONAN. •jt;i uiiliu'ky (tiic. Ill that easi; tlio bones arc cxliumcil and washed in t!ii^ water, and then removed to a more hospitable .sej»;ilchre. Fioni tlii> temple we passed into a loiii^ street in which everv shop-w in- ,1,,\\ is idled with ])ars (»!' bnllion, fans, liats, shot's, and <;arments ,,t ivery pattern cut ti-om fancy-colored ]»a]>er, and ])ut uj) in pack- ai^cs with a pi-ayer impressed on each packet. These parcels are ,(iM to mourners, who l)urn them in incense before the shrine, be- lit\ iui; that in this way they conviv tt» the departed friends the iiKitcrial substances of which thi' paper articles are tlie imitation. Of the Ihiddhist temples, the most celebrated is the llonan. li is, witli its extensive monastery, called also the Temple of the •Oit'an IJanner:*" but why the "Ocean I'anner," we cannot con- litlure. Spacious areas here ai'e o(cuj>icd liy "sacred "' pit^s, goats. 1 " f ;4 I'.MItAM K li> lilK TKMI'LK OK IIONAN 14 2(J2 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. shc'C'i), ^^•ii^'lv^"*', ducks, mul f^cese. Not\vitlit*tau(lin^ the reverential (levotidii wliicli tlio monks show to these animals, the idle boys who luUowed us into the temple took a wicked deli«iht in '' stirring Uj)" the fat, holy swine with ]>ike-staves, and niuking them grunt tnr our entertainment. The monks have separate cloisters, and, hesicks these, one spacious and common hall, which, having undorgmii: some special form of consecration, is regarded as an auspiciou.s (•hand)er for the departure of the soul in death. AVHien a brother's last hour is supposed to be near, he is brought to this chandior. possibly with the unintentional eti'ect of hastening his entrance tn anticipated bliss. Not far from this hajipy death-chandjcr is a sanctified and auspicious charnel-house. The body dej)osite<l in this lucky vault remains here in waiting until Buddha, being con- sulted, indicates a lucky day for the ceremony of cremation. V,v yond the charnel-house is a furnace in which the process is con- ducted. The ashes are gathered in a vase, and are deposited with others in a temporary mausoleum. When the fulness of time lias arrived, and an auspicious day has come, the vase is emptied intu a common sarcophagus, and so the funeral-rites are at last ended. Leaving the " Ocean Banner," we visited the Temple of the '' Flowery Forest." Its pantheon contains images not only of go(U of whom the Greeks or Romans never dreamed, but of more god,-, than they ever worshipped. Think of five hundred colossal wooden dgures, of all complexions, black, white, and red, with distorted features and limbs, and dressed in pur])Ie, crimson, and gold, sitting' in close order around the walls of a saloon, equal to the hu'gest in the British Museum. Tiiese are tlie guardian genii of China. Each is a deified apostle or saint of the religion. Those tignres were presented to the monastery by one of the emperors, and |)er- hn|)6all were carved by one artist. If he failed to im|)art a natural human expression to any ainong them, it must be admitted in his favor that, in their hideous distortions, no two are alike. We were kindly received by the monks. The abbot, a man of reverend mien, wears pur[)le, a caj) which might be mistaken for a mitre, and a staff in tiie shape of a crozier. As we came in advance of the evening service, they entertained us in the spaci.ais court with TI (Kiicious tea an vei'sation a va^ tliat the disastci Ann aggression irieat civil war While we were and having the many childi-en. dressed servants \dti\e oH'crings, Tiicy were waiti in incense for th( the women madi and (dieerfnl, see engaged rather ; advances to us, hestttwed on thei At the service licneli, the only t tu.see the ceremc a iotty ceiling. sitting })osture, n locdving to the ie Ihrward, express! right, contempla isii temple dedicj seiits, in a vague Cliurch: one, th entatu)n in tiire tries merely accid "f tlie same inn; revelation? Tli votional intonat licll liidded, to i rliis sound, tlie 'orohcads to the TKMI'LK OF THE "FLOWKIJY FOUEST." L>r.a (Klicioiis tea and d 'ied fruits. The brethren showed by their con- viTsation n vague knowledge of foreign countries. They feared that the disasters which have befallen France may encourage Kus* , ill II nggression agaiuisi China. They understand something of tlie tjwat civil war in the United States, and rejoice in its results. While we were thus engaged, a group of ladies exquisitely dressed, aiul havitig the least of all feet, came into the court accompanied by many children. This party was followed by a retinue of well- (h'cssed servants, bearing large ornamented paper boxes, tilled with vuti\e oU'erlngs, paper shoes, fans, and hats, as ])efore described. Tlicy were waiting mtil the nudnight hour, to burn these offerings ill incense for the repose and cheer of deceas<>d ancestors. Although the women nuide no mirthful demonstration, they were aninuited and cheerful, seeming to regard tlie ceremony in which they were engaged rather as a festal than a funereal one. They nuide no advances to us, but ehowed much delight with the caresses we bestowed on their pretty children. At the service, the monks kindly seated Mr. Seward on a wooden hench, the only thing of the kind in the temple, in a good position t^)l^ce the ceremony. The hall of worship is sixty feet s(piare, with a lolty ceiling. In its centre, a gigantic, triple-carved statue, in a sitting ])osture, representing I'uddha in his three " states " — the face locking to the left, symlxtlic of oblivion, o.* the jxhst ,' that looking t'urward, expressive of activity, the jjresc/it : tlie third, looking to the riirlit, contem])lation, or the future. The " Flowery Forest," then, is a temple dedicated to a religion, older than our own, which ]»re- M'lits, in a vague, misty way, two of the principles of the Christian Church: one, the incarnation of the SuprtMiie; the other. His j)res- ititatlon in three persons, one and indivisible. Are these analo- iries merely accidental coincidences, or are they different outgrowths (if the same innate ideas, or are they shadowy forms of a common revelation? The service consisted in a solemn, measured, and de- vuti(»iial intonation of a lon<; and varied liturgv. Cccasionallv, a hell tiidvled, to indicate a chaiige in the order of the prayers. At tliis sound, the monks prostrated themselves, and brought their foreheads t(» the ground. At other times, they changed tlu'ir ;;os- / 1 t f ;- i -1 \ ft ' 264 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. tures toward tlic triune iina<jf(>, or walked in solemn proecs.sion around it, keeping time to a muilled drum and gon<j^. ()ire)'iiii;^s are made of wheat, rice, and millet. These heiug deemed nou- consecrated, they were, at the conclusion of the ceremony, convcycil in a tripod, and scattered over the ]iaved court of the tcmjjle, tliut they mi<;ht he gathered hy tlie fowls of the air, and so he saved from human profanation. The temjde contains a very line dai;vtl)ii of white marhle, built over a relic of a former incarnate lUuldha. Its pedestal, a lower story, is ornamented with various allegorical tablets, on which Buddha is represented riding here on a dragon, there on a lion, and elsewliere on other animals. Heathen deities, as we come among them, seem to us to be rather impersonal idiis of ideal conditions of human existence, than spiritual conccptlDiis of a superior order of beings. There is a tem])le dedicated to " Longevity.'' The idol, a colos- sal ligure, badly carved in wood, and })ainted very red and vorv brown, represents an obese, contented, and lazy old man. Tliis temple has a monastery of extraordinary character. Instead ot cloisters of masonry, the cells are trees ; and, instead of shaven monks, the brotherhood is a family of storks, which, daily fed by the attendants, live out their long-appointed days, objects of rcvcreiut' and affection. The stork which has the hick to be dedicated to ''Longevity " is a hap]>y bird. Wliat a contrast is his to the casi' of the gold-lish, only bred and fattened, in the ponds of the teinj)li! of the same god, to become the food of the " holy " stork ! Whatever doubts there may be about the justice of the Chinese claim to the invention of printing, it is pleasant to record that they have done honor to the art of arts by dedicating to it shrines, tablets, and vases of incense. Our survey of the religions institutions closed with a visit to n convent of Buddhist nuns, devoted to the care of the sick. The superior and the sisterhood received us kindly. Although illiterate, they are industrious, tidy, gentle, and prepossessing. They slnnvod us not only the meagre hospital wards, but their own very hunihle cells. After all, cdiarity is an essential element of every religion, and woman is its truest minister throughout the worhl. CHAPTER XVI CANTON ( Vonlin ucd ). A Cliincsc Villa. — The Ilall of Ancestors. — A ('hiiicse Sciiool-Room. — Another Villa. — An Oiiiimi-Den. — Kxtcnt of Opitim-Sitiokinjr. — The Chinese Chronometer. — The Street of MalefaetoTd. — i'he Place ot Execution. — A City of the Dead. — Canton at Night. Canton, Dcccinhcr ?Mh, — Tliis morning, witliout previous invi- tation or notice, onr reverend guide ushered us into tlie villa of a Chinese gentlonmn, Poon-ting-gua. It covers several acres, en- closed with a solid granite wall. Chinese ladies with their children received us graciously. The mansion has a spacious theatre, taste- t'ully uiranged, for [irivate entertainments, many pretty houdoirs, Mild a spacious banqueting-iiall. After this, we visited the still more aml)itious dwelling of the mandarin Lee, now exercising the office of Taou-tai in the province of Cln'n-Kiang. This residence contains a noble Hall of Ancest<>rs, which, although it opens on one side to the sky. resembles very much the old Ileprc tentative Hall in the Capitol at Washington. The Ancestral Hall is the chapel used for daily family worship of the gods, as well as of the ancestors. The hall is pu.ely Confucian in idea. A shrine in the centre supports a tablet on which the names of the ancestors are inscribed. Large crimson banners are suspended from the walls, which contain, in embroidery, their likenesses, as well as those of the family, with heraldic insignia or emblems. The Ancestral Hall, moreover, is the judgment-chand)er or tribunal in which taniily courts are held. At these courts all births are recorded, ■mi. 1 I I ^. t>. ^,„,ir^ .^a:^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. 1.0 I.I ■ 50 '"^" I 40 11-25 11.4 2.5 22 1.8 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 \ c^^^ V^ &^ <> \ 266 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. marriage-contracts celebrated, and all disputes are adjusted. In anticipation of his last lionr, the head of the house is brought to the Ancestral Hall to die. expecting an unobstructed passage thence POON-TINO-OUA'S VILLA. to the realms above. After his death, his will is published in tlie same chamber. This hall is brilliantly furnished with European lamps, clocks, and mirrors. On the present occasion, the altar or tablet was graced with a porcelain salver, on which rested a cold roast-pig, weighing fifteen or twenty pounds. The dish was flanked with conserves, cakes, and flowers. A daughter of the house, mar- ried three days ago, comes ir, j^rocession to-day, to pay her parting- visit to her family, and these were the ofitrings to ancestors ])ro- vided for the celebration of this important domestic event. At tlic conclusion of the ceremony, in such cases, the oblations are distrib- uted among the servants of the family. CHINESE SCHOOL-ROOM. 267 "We were particularly interested in the school-room, where the boys are educated ; the girls are not educated at all. With its arrangement of tables, desks, black-board, books, and slates, the apartment might be mistaken for a school-room at home. All the pupils read the lessons of every sort aloud, and all at once, and commit them to memory. The pedagogue differs but little, except in dress, from the school-master the world over. The master in this present school is an ingenuous as well as a spirited man. The instrument of his discipline laid on his desk, and he did not hesi- tate to admit that he frequently employs it, belie Ang probably in Solomon's instruction, "he that spareth his rod, hateth his son." The Chinese boys have all the natural manner and modesty of well- bred children. One bright-eyed little lad of eight years, with great reverence, asked Mr. Seward's " honorable age." We were received by another family, in a very spacious villa near the Ilonan. We noticed, with some surprise, here, the it/t- pluvium, rendered so famous by the descriptions of Pompeii. Is it likely that the Chinese have preserved a feature of v iUa architecture which the AVestern nations have lost ? The proprietor and the ladies of his family conducted us through their sumptuous abode, with perfect refinement of manner, betraying not the least shyness or curiosity. The tea-house in Canton holds the place of the ale-house, cafe, or restaurant, in European cities. Rich and poor promiscuously gather there, and are served without respect of persons. In returning from the villa, we opened a narrow door and made our way through a dark passage to a suite of small rooms, faintly liglited from the roof. The seclusion, darkness, and silence of the place, indicated that something furtive was going on there. On either side of a long chamber was a dais divided into sections, in each section two men reclining vis-d-vis — between them a minia- ture table six inches high. We were in an opium-den, and these l^ersons Avcre the victims. Before each of the smokers, on the table, rested a pipe, a tiny opium-pot, and a burning lamp. Here, as in the tea-house, there is no respect of rank or wealth. The poor and the rich lie down together. Each assists the other in the It i a'^ 208 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCniN CniNA. delicate task of ignitino^ the opium, and filling the bowl of the pipo. "VVe spoke to two or three of the smokers, who were only at tlie beginning of the siesta, and received from them respectful and •rentlc answers. We tried in vain to rouse others to consciousness, who were in the stage of blissful revery, although their eyes were OI'IIIM-BMOKEKS. open, and they were sadly smiling. When the smoker recovers from the inebriation, if he has sufficient strength he repairs liome; otherwise, he is removed to another apartment, and remains tliore perhaps twenty-four hours, recovering strength to depart. AVas it OPIUM-SMOKING. 2C0 an imagination of ours tliat the keeper of 'diis hell wore a base and sinister look as he stood behind his counter in a dark closet, sur- rounded by packages of the pernicious drug, Avhieh he weighed out to his customers a pennyweight of opium against a pennyweight of silver ? The books we have read at home, and the discussions we have heard here as well as there, have prepared us to see the disastrous eficct VI upium-smoking on every side in China. The denunciation of the practice Is justified by all-sufficient proof that it is destructive of physical and intellectual energy. Statistics show a vast increase of the consumption of the drug, since its free importation has been allowed. The Chinese Government has given its sanction to the wide-spread denunciation by its persistent and earnest opposition to the opium-trade. We are agreeably disappointed, however, by the absence of evidence of the evil fruits of the practice which we had anticipated. Except in this den where we purposely went to seek the vice and its victims, we have not met, in any part of the country, a person of either sex, or of any age, whose appearance, conversation or conduct, indicated an excessive indulgence. Euro- peans and Americans here agree in representing the practice as wide-spread and pernicious, but, when interrogated concerning their observation, they assure you that they know of a coolie, a house-servant, a mechanic, a clerk, perhaps a trader, who has become inefficient or unreliable by the indulgence. But the best- informed persons agree that cases of this kind are neither more frequent nor more extensive than those of habitual alcoholic intem- perance in the United States. Moreover, we are inclined to think that the cost of the drug, when balanced against the low wages of labor, lifts the abuse beyond the reach of the working-classes. In the matter of the regulation of time, the Chinese do not keep lip with "Western science. There is a tower here devoted to that purpose. Each hour is announced in a printed placard posted on the outer wall. The chronometer, however, which is used in the tower, is a water-clock, the clumsy clcjm/dra of ancient Greece. A branch staircase from the Time-Tower brought us to the government printing-office, which publishes all official documents, I €. t »5!. ft i a 270 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. including a copy of the Peking Gazette. None of our modcM'ii ira])rovements are used. The carving of the wooden type, the spreading of the India-ink over them, the taking of the impression, all arc done by hand. The Chinese Government is based on two fictions : first, that the emperor is the Son of Heaven ; second, tha*- he is the parent of the Chinese people. In harmony with these principles, loyalty t(j the state is inculcated not only as a religious but as a filial duty. But all sentimental fictions are liable to abuse, equally in politics and religion. The code of Draco was not more cruel than the parental discipline of the Chinese empire. Passing by the palace of the Taou-tai, with its ostentatious imperial banners, we turned a sharp corner, and entered a long, narrow, cheerless street. Here, no gay sign-boards or banners relieved the night. The "hops are sombre, and there are few travellers. It is the nialefact jr roud— the street through which the condemned convicts pass, fro.n the palace to the place of execution. It was almost night when mc were admitted, under a strong but low gateway, to a close area a hundred feet long, scarcely more than twenty feet wide ; on one side low stone-buildings ; on the other a high blind wall ; a walk paved with large flat stones in the middle of the court. A potter \vas noiselessly at work shaping vessels, some to be used for re- ceiving the blood, others the hands and feet, and others the heads of the victims. Sometimes only a single execution takes place, but usually short delays are made for the convenience of bringing sev- eral executions together. They vary in number from two to fifty, and, in times of political disturbance or flagrant piracy, fifty and even a hundred executions take place at once. Dr. Grey, avIio has studied Chinese history carefully, is of opinion that no field of battle ancient or modern has witnessed so much violent destruction of human life as this Aceldama. The customary form is decapita- tion. When the condemned come within the gate, they march up the paved walk and take their places, kneeling inward on either side. An imperial oflicer at the upper end of the court reads, in a distinct voice, a rescript of their names, crimes, and sentences. A practised executioner, with a long sword which he wields with both THE CITY OF THE DEAD. 2T1 hands, proceeds dovrn the line. The culprits stretching their necks forward, the executioner, swinging the instniment in continued circles, completely severs a heac' at every blow. The heads fall into vases tilled with lime ; nevertheless the pavement is ])esmeared with blood, and the effluvia rising from this horrible place taint the atmosphere of the most distant parts of the city. We saw crosses leaning ag.iinst the wall, prepared for inflicting punishment in that form, and many baskets, each of which contained a head ready to be transported to the city gates, and to distant parts of the empire. The scene we next visited is one which, although sad and solemn, is touching and beautiful. This is an extensive plain, ornamented with gardens and lakes, fragrant Avith flowers, and musical Math the songs of birds. It is the temporary resting-place of the dead while awaiting — a day or many days, a month or many months, a year or many years — an auspicious tima and place for final interment. This city of the dead is divided into blocks, and traversed by rectilinear paved streets. Instead of dwellings, the squares are covered with charnel-houses, and those are already numbered by thousands. They are built of stone, and kept with perfect cleanliness and order. The charnel-houses, one story high, are divided into two apartments — the front, a reception-hall with tablets and an altar, before which a lamp continually burns, and on which offerings of tea, fruit, and flowers are daily renewed. This room is occupied by the relations of the deceased, generally sons or daughters, who console the dead not only by day, but through the long watches of the night. A couch or divan along the wall serves for their repose. In the inner chamber rest the unburicd, or the exhumed remains enclosed in a costly carved coffin, covered with a magnificent purple or scarlet pall. Around the coffin are figures or stntues, either carved, or of porcelain, which, gayly dressed and bearings fons or cups, are ministering to the wants of the sleeping dead. When a stranger dies in Canton, information is conveyed to his friends, however distant. His remains rest here until prep- arations for his interment have been made, in the part of the em- pire where he lived. The " city of the dead," like our cemeteries, 1 ■4- 3. l4 IE 272 JAPAN. CHINA, AND COCITTN CITTNA. is under the care of an association, and its expenses are defrayed by charges regulated by tariff It "vvas quite nine o'clock, a star-lit night, when we emo.-fjcd from this silent, mysterious place — the only one we have ever soon in ^vhicll, thougli it is devoted to the dead, cheei-fulness and hope prevail over gloom and despondency. We passed through a scries of graves which surround it, starting a thousand storks, which kept watch and ward over the cemetery. These birds have a peculiar adaptation to sacred places. They rest always on one leg, the head turned backward under the wing. Their utterances are made l)v clapping their mandibles together like a ])air of castanets. Our coolies bore burning lamps. They carried us very quickly across a rude, uninhabited plain, which, by reason of its vicinity to the city. we expected to find a scene of disorder and peril. Our experience is that neither assassin nor robber of any kind, by night or by day, awaits the sojourner in Canton. We occasionally stopped to inquire the significance of a candle burning in the grass near the roadside, and before which lay offerings of tea, wheat, fruit, or millet. The explanation was, that some person, passing the place, had stumbled or met with other accident, the mischievous work of some discon- tented spirit or demon. The light and the offerings are designed to propitiate him. The night aspect of Canton is one of qriie^-. and peace. All shops, stores, and manufactories, are closely shut ; only here and there a paper lantern dangles from the caves, before the house of a mandarin or a wealthv denizen. The tread of the foot-passenii-er is only occasionally heard, and there are no processions, groups, or crowds. Light streams through the crevices of the dwellings, and often the clink of the anvil and the sound of the hammer indicate that the inhabitants have only withdrawn from the operations of sale in which they were engaged during the day, to manufacture new articles to sell to-morrow. Rarely, very rarely, one may hear the mellow tones of a flute, but never in any part of the city doe? there arise the sound of debauch or revelry. A gentle rap by onr conductor brought to the postern the keepei' of each of the numer- ous gates through which we had to pass. A kind word assured us CHINESE TOMBS. 2Ta that ho was prcparod for our coming, and was interested for our safety. Moving on so quietly in our chairs, we l:ad fallen into tlie dreamy state of contemplation ascribed to Buddha, when the lust of the cit^ -gates, the gate of '" Everlasting Peace," lifted its head and allowed us to pass under the door of hospitable " Kee- Chung." >assen<^-er is OUINESK TOUBA. •1 * I 3 tr M 1^ 10. Chincfio Emigratic (/hina. — A Oc Mr. Howard's pccts of Chill IIong-Kon vova<>;c, besicl of Macao. S and fifty of tli the others, vc Kong for San States goes e through the ] American coi from the same The Laws of tl and a certific and made on preventing al United States with the emi tion prevailing the African si by fraud and I CHAPTER XVII. AT UONO-KONQ AGAIN. Cbincso Kmigration to the United Stateti. — The CiuUon f'ishcrics. — American Houses in Ciiina. — A Combination of (iunibleis. — A Dinner at the United States Consulate. — Mr. Seward's Speech. — Oriental and Eastern Civilization. — Policy of China. — Pros- pects of China. IIong-Kong^ January 1, 1871. — The Kin-San, on her return- voyage, besides ourselves, had three cabin-] )assengers, all niercliants of Macao. She had four hundred in the steera<i^e : one hundred and fifty of tliem Chinese traders between Canton and llon<^-Kong; the others, voluntary Chinese emigrants going to ship at Ilong- Kong for San Francisco. The Chinese emigration to the United States goes exclusively from the province of Quan-Tong (Canton) tlu'ongh the port of Canton. The Chinese emigration to other American countries, the West Indies, and South America, goes from the same province, but through the Portuguese port of Macao. The laws of the United States, which require consular examination and a certificate in each case that the emigration is voluntary, and made on sufficient guarantee, have proved entirely effective in preventing abduction, fraud, and violence. The emigrant to the United States is contented and cheerful. It is not so, however, with the emigrant who embarks at Macao. The system of abduc- tion prevailing there is an abomination scarcely less execrable than the African slave-trade. The emigrants are promiscuously taken by fraud and force; ignorant of their destination, and without sccu- < 1 '^ & C 270 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COUIIIN CHINA. rity for tlieir labor or tlicir freodoin, tliey are luirried on board sail ing-craft. These vessels are built in the United States, and tlav appear at Macao under the United States flag, promising to eonvoy the emigrants to our country. So soon as they have cleared the port, they hoist the colors of Peru, San Salvador, or Fome other Spanish-American state. It is when this fraud is discovered that scenes of mutiny and murder occur, of which we have such frequent and frightful accounts. It shall not be our fault if, in the cause o\' humanity, the United States Government is not informed of this great outrage against our national honor. Chinese versatility has a fine illustration in the Canton fisheries. On either side of our steamer, as we came down the river, was a tub or cistern holding five hundred gallons of water. The water contained great quantities of living fish produced in ponds in the vicinity of Canton. Arriving at tlie wharf here, a sluice was opened at the bottom of each cistern, and the fish, rushing out with the rapid current, dropped into smaller tubs, and were conveyed either to market, or to sliips going to sea. January, 2d. — We are pleased witli the reassurance we receive here from home, that a semi-monthly line of steamers is to be established by the Pacific Mail Steamship Company. This line is a development of enterprise which, though noiseless, is extend- ing the American name and influence in the East. The American houses in China are as follows : Russell & Company, with establishments at Shanghai, Hong-Kong, Canton, Foo-Choo, Kiu-Kiang, Ilan-Kow, and Tien-Tsin. Augustine Heard & Company, at Shanghai, Hong-Kong, Canton, and Foo-Clioo. Oliphant & Company, at Shanghai, Hong-Kong, Canton, and Foo-Clioo. Bull, Pardon & Company, at Shanghai, Hong-Kong, Canton, and Foo-Choo. Smith, Archer, & Company, at Shanghai, Hong-Kong, and Canton. Silas E. Burrows & Company, at Hong-Kong. E. J. Sage & Company, at Hong-Kong. H. Fogg & Company, at Shangliai. A. C. Farnhara & Company, at Shanghai. To all these houses our grateful acknowlegments — to Russell A SPEECH BY MIJ. SEWARD. 277 it Cuin[)any, tbo most full, bocauso they have claimed us as their cruests, ill their several agencies throughout the enipiro. 1 long-Kong has a social grievance unknown in the United States, except in the new States and Territories — a villanoua combi- mition of gamblers, like the pests of the same kind whose atrocities stain the history of Vicksburg and San P'rancisco. The judicial officers confess themselves powerless to suppress these criminals. To-day the United States consul, Mr. Bailey, entertained Mr. Se\vard, with the large party gathered to meet him, at the considate. To Mr. Bailey's speech of welcome, Mr. Seward replied as follows : "The questions which engaged the American people, in the period to which you have so kindly referred, were, the elimination of slavery from the United States, and the saving of the republic from dissolution. Both these questions were at last decided for the right, in a fearful civil war. I think there is not now living, on this round earth, a man who, even though he was then a sympa- thizer with the rebellion, now regrets that beneiicent adjustment. "Our distinguished statesman, Daniel "Webster, foresaw only the struggle. His utmost confidence in the happy end was in the expression of his earnest hope that his dying eyes might not close on a dismembered, a disunited, a belligerent republic. On us, how- ever, who have survived both him and the convulsion, there opens a bright and glorious prospect — it is the spread of republican insti- tutions over the whole American Continent, involving by absolute necessity a regeneration of civilization in the East. The United States have assumed the lead in this great work, happily with the free consent and approbation of all the European nations. " The first Emperor of the French, copying from Julius Ctesar, introduced, in our time, the military empire, as an agency for con- quest. The second emperor dedicated it to peace and progress. Fortunately for mankind, the innovation has failed for both pur- poses. The world is coming to realize, on the contrary, that ' the republic,^ that is to say, not the republic of former ages, but the niodern republic of our own experience, is always favorable to pros- perity and progress, and is everywhere ' on earth peace, good-will toward men.' 19 -■t mm-' 278 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. " I liftVG been long engaged stndying tlic great problem of mod- ern civilization. In doing so, I bave travelled largely on tbe Kortli Ajncrican Continent, and, witli tbe same object, I am now observini; Asiatic conntries. In tbis connection, I may make two or tliree observations, witbout disloyalty to my own conntry, or to China and witbout offence to any foreign nation represented bcre. I do not nndervalue missionary labors in tbe East, but tbe (^bristiim religion, for its acceptance, involves some intellectiinl and social ad- vancement wbicb can only be effected tbrougb international com- merce. I look, tbcrefore, cbietly to comniorce for tbe regeneration of Cbina — tliat commerce to come across tbe American Continent and tbo Pacifi' Ocean. I lament to find, in every part of China that I visit, despondency concerning tliat commerce, wbicli, I am sure, is not entertained in tbe United States, or in any otber of the Western nations. I think that despondency witbout foundation. On tbe otber band, a foreign commerce, wbicli penetrates the nortliern, tbe central, and tbe soutbern regions of Cbina, is firndv established and secured. Not one of tbe footholds which have been gained can ever be lost. The continuance and increase of tliat commerce are guaranteed by the material, moral, social, a id i>oliti- cal necessities of both continents. " Say what men may, buman progress is compelled by the laws of Providence. Obstacles, indeed, must occur, and will nmltiidy resistance lierc, and discussions and jealousies in the West ; but there is a subtle moral opinion wbicb pervades mankind, before which, sooner or later, all such obstacles disappear. There is no assignable measure to the future expansions of tbis intercontinental and i*(?generating commerce. Altbougb its movements seem to us very slow, yet there are abundant evidences that it is neither dying out nor retrograding. The daily increasing emigration from south- ern Cbina to America, and to the Malay Peninsula, and the Oriental Archipelago, is a guarantee of its continuance. That emigration ■works beneficially in three ways : tbe navigation employed in it sustains commerce; it relieves an overcrowded population of sur- plus labor; returning emigrants bring back not only wealth, Imt arts, knowledge, and morals, to renovate their native country. Let my memorv SPEECH CONTINUED. 279 it be oui* task, tliereforc, to stimulate tins emigration. It is essen- tial to the growth of international commerce, that the "Western states practise equal justice toward China. True commerce involves vocipi'ocity, not exclusive gain on either side, and it flourishes just in proportion to the good laith an^ . equality with which it is coiidncted. "Six or seven years ago, the Western nations, relinquishing imli'> idual designs of aggrandizement or advantage in Jhina, were represented hy enlightened men, among whom were the late Mr. Burlingame, Sir Frederick Bruce, and M. Berthemy. They agreed in recommending to their several states the policy of bringing China into equal political relations with all the Western states. The ' Burlingame ' treaty \t as the fruit *f these counsels. They have onlv to be pursued in good faith, to work the best results. N^o one now doubts of the renovation of Japan ; bat China, with its four hundred millions, exhibits more signs of progress to-day than Japan, with its tliirty or forty millions, did twenty years ago. I am often asked : ' But what of this ancient Chinese Imperial Government, its extortions, its timidity, its efteteness, and of this national prejudice, the fruit of thousands of years of isolation ? ' I answer : ' I do not know — no one knows. I only know that imbecility and efteteness always give way before vigor and energy, and that dotage and |irejudice must give way to truth, justice, and reason. I know not what political changes may occur hero, but, on the other hand, I know it is an error to suppose that revolutions, with wliatever de- sign they are inaugurated, retard human progress.' I used all the inrtuonce I had to prevent the late revolution in Japan, because I thonglit it was a retrograde movement ; I little dreamed that the restored I^Iikado would excel the dethroned Tvcoon in emulating Western civihzation. " ihit I must not enlarge. Gentlemen, you have dedicated vonr fortunes and vour lives to the regeneration of (Miina. I ])ray God that you may individually enjoy the rich rewards of that devotion 1 " This day, with its pleasing incidents, will be forever fresh in my nieniorv.'' 280 JAPAN, CniXA, AND COCHIN CHINA. January 4:th, — The Chinese, though not of the Caucasian race, have all its political, moral, and social capabilities. Lon^ ago, they reached a higher plane of civilization than most of the European states attained until a much later period. The Western nations have since risen above that plane. The whole world is anxiously inquiring whether China is to retrieve the ad- vantages she has lost, and if she is to come within the family of modern civilized states. Mr. Burlingame's sanguine temperament and charitable disposition led him to form too favorable an opinio n of the present condition of China. In his anxiety to secure a more liberal policy on the part of the Western nations toward the ancient empire, he gave us to understand, especially in his speeches, that, while China has much to learn from the Western nations, she is not without some peculiar institutions which they may advantageonslv adopt. This is not quite true. Although China is far from beinir a barbarous state, yet every system and institution there is interior to its corresponding one in the West. Whether it be the abstract sciences, such as philosophy and psychology, or whether it be the practical forms of natural science, astronomy, geology, geography, natural history, and chemistry, or the concrete ideas of govern- ment and laws, morals and manners ; whether it be in the aesthetic arts or mechanics, every thing in China is effete. Chinese cdnca- tion rejects science ; Chinese industry proscribes invention ; Chi- nese morals appeal nou to conscience, but to convenience; Chinese architecture and navigation eschew all improvements ; Chinese government maintains itself by extortion and terror ; Chinese reli- gion is materialistic — not even mystic, much less spiritual. If we ask hoAV this inferiority has come about, among a people who have achieved so much in the past, and have capacities for greater acliieve- ment in the future, we must conclude that, owing to some error in their ancient social system, the faculty of invention has been ar- rested in its exercise and impaired. China first became known to the Western world by the discov- eries of Marco Polo in the thirteenth century. At that period and until after the explorations of Vasco de Gama, China appears to have been not comparatively great, prosperous, and enlightened, COXDITIOX OF CHINA. 281 but absolutely so. An empire extending from tne snows of Siberia to the tropics, and from the Pacific to the mountain sources of the (jreat rivers of Continental Asia, its population constituted one- fourth of the human race. Diversified climate and soil alibrded all the resources of public and private wealth. Science and art devel- oped those resources. Thus, when European nations came upon the shores of China, in the sixteenth century, they found the empire independent and self-sustaining. The Mantchoos on the north had invaded the empire and substituted a Tartar dynasty at Peking for a native dynasty at Nanking, but the concpierors and the conquered were still Chinese, and the change was a revolu- tion and not a subjugation. China having thus attained all the objects of national life, came to indulge a sentiment of supercilious pride, under the influence of which she isolated herself from all other nations. Her government from its earliest period was in the hands of a scholastic and pedantic class, a class M-hich elsewhere has been found incapable of practical rule. Since the isolation took phxce, that class has effectively exercised all the powers of the state, in repressing inquiry and stifling invention, through fear that chaugc in any direction would result in their own overthrow. The long isolation of the empire, and the extirpation of native in- vention, have ended in reversing the position of China, From being self-sustaining and independent, as she was when found by the European states, she has become imbecile, dependent, and help- less. Without military science and art, she is at the mercy of Western n;itions. Without the science of political economy, the Government is incapable of maintaining an adecjuate system of revenue ; and, without the science of AVestern laws and morals, it is equally incapable of maintaining an impartial and eflbc'^'ve ad- ministration of justice. Having refused to adopt W^^stcni arts and sciences, the Government is incapable of establishing and maintain- iiifj a beneficial domestic administration. Insurrections and revo- lutions are therefore unavoidable, nor can the Government repress them without the aid of the Western ])owers. She pays the Euro- pean nations for making the clothing for her people, and the arms with which they must defend themselves. She imports not only , ! I I ft ^. 282 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. the precious metals, but coal and iron, instead of allowing her own mines to be opened. She forbids the employment of steam and animal power in mechanics, and so largely excludes her fabrics from foreijj'n markets. Though China Avould now willingly leave all the world alone, other nations cannot atibrd to leave her alone. Great Britain must send her cotton fabrics and iron manufactures. The United IStatcs must send her steam-engines and agricultural implements, and bring away her coolieo. Italy, France, and Belgium, must have her silks, and all the world must have her teas, and send her their religions. All these operations cannot go on without steam-en- gines, stationary as well as marine. Hoe's printing-press, alid the electric telegraph. Now for the question of the prospects of China. Before attempt- ing to answer this, it will be best to define intelligently the pres- ent political condition of China. Certainly it is no longer an abso- lutely sovereign and independent empire, nor has it yet become a protectorate of any other euipire. It is, in short, a state under the constant and active surveillance of the Western maritime nations, This surveillance is exercised by their diplomatic representatives, and by their naval forces backed by the menace of military in- tervention. In determining whether this precarious condition of China is likely to continue, and whether its endurance is desirable, it would be well to consider what are the possible alternatives. There arc only three : First, absolute subjugation by some foreign state ; second, the establishment of a protectorate by some foreiiin state ; third, a complete ])opular revolution; o', erthrowing not only the present dynasty, but the present form of government, and establishing one which shall be in harmony with the interests of China and the spirit of the age. The Chinese people, inflated with national pride, and contempt for Western sciences, arts, religions. morals, and manners, are not prepared to accept the latter alterna- tive. The rivalry of the Western nations, with the fluctuations of the balance of their political powers, render it dangerous for any foreign state to assume a protectorate. The second alternative is, therefore, out of the question. We have already expressed the POLICY OF THE WESTERN POWERS. 283 opinion that mankind liave outlived the theory of universal empire, and certainly the absolute subjugation of China by any Western state would be a nearer approach to universal empire than Greek, or Koman, or Corsican, or Cossack, ever dreamed of. The exercise of sovereigTity in China by a national dynasty, under the surveil- lance and protection of the maritime powers, is the condition most favorable to the country and most desirable. The maintenance of it seems practicable so far as it depends upon the consent of the mari- time surveillant powers. But how long the four hundred millions of people within the empire will submit to its continuance is a (juestion which baffles all penetration. The present Government favoi's and does all it can to maintain it. Prince Kung and Wan- Siang are progressive and renovating statesmen, but a year or two hence a new emperor will come 1 o the throne. The literati, no less bigoted now than heretofore, have an unshaken prestige among the people, and, for aught any one can judge, the first decree of the new emperor may be the appointment of a reactionary ministry, with the decapitation of the present advisers of the throne. Let it, then, be the policy of the Western nations to encourage and sustain the sagacious reformers of China, and in dealing with that extraor- dinary people to practise in all things justice, moderation, kind- ness, and sympathy. Of course, it is not to be expected or desired that the foreign surveillance which is now practised will retain its present obnoxious and opp)ressive character. The habit of interven- tion, and the habit of acquiescence in it once fixed, surveillance will assume the forms of protective tutorship. The interests of hutli parties will rerpiire that this tutoi'ship be exercised with leni- ency; gradual amelioration of the political and social cimdition of China will produce mutual sympathy and respect between the pro- tectors and the protected, the instructors and the pupil. Some- thing of this kind has already happened in the relations between the Western states and the Otto-man powers. It has been no easy task to set down these hurried reflections in the midst of festivities, only brought to an end by the parting with, so many kind friends. The signal is hoisted, and we go on board the Provence. .J t I CHi\PTER XYIIL A GLANCE AT COCHIN CHINA. The Steamer Provence. — Island of Hainan. — Our Fellow-rassengers. — The Mouth of the Saigon River. — The City of Saigon. — French Aptitude for Colonization.— I'reiidi Photographs. — The Queen of Cambodia. Steamer Provence, South China Sea, January C)th. — "Wearied with our long wanderings over China, which, though interesting, were attended with much fatigue, and wuh the hospitalities wliicli, however delightful, were nevertheless exhf.^isting, we resumed our onward voyage with a feeling of relief. "We are now running down the coast of the large and prosper- ous island of Hainan, which is separated from the main-land df China by the Gulf of Tonquin. They speak of aborigines on the island, but, from Avhat we learn of its subdivision into Cliine.<e provinces, and its confessedly great trade, we are inclined to believe that its civilization does not differ materially from that of the provinco of Quan-Tong. Our steamer, recently L'Imperatrice, of the " Messagerici^ Ini- periales," is now La Provence, of the " ]\ressagerics Naiionales,'' changes of name wh"ch illustrate the political versatility of ilie French ])eople. The tout ensemUe of ]iassengers nnd crew is scarcely less indicative of social movements .'n the East. There are eleven young men, sons of Japanese daimios, travel- ling under the care of a Prussian, who has been their tutor for five years. They arc now going to iinish their studies ; some in Enir- land, some in France, some in Germany — the larger nund)er in the THE SAIGON RIVER. 28: rnitecl States. It was only when they cmharlced that they changed their native flowing silken dresses, two swords, and wooden shoes, for the Western costume. The tawny lads seem to enjoy the change prodigiously, for they make during the day as many changes of toilet as a Saratoga belle. There is, next, an intelligent American merchant of Shanghai, on his way to London, as agent of the Chinese Government, to pur- chase two "American" merchant-steamers, to be built in PJngland, and ?team-engine8 for two " American " ships-of-war, which are now on the stocks at Shanghai. Also a Spanish tobacco-merchant with his family, going from Manila to visit his early home in Cata- lonia. Two young Americans, just out of Harvard, are making the tonr around the world. They are now going to Bangkok, a jour- ney which we had purposed making, but were obliged to forego. On reaching Saigon, tliey intend crossing the mountains of Cam- bodia to Siam by elephant-train. Jamiary ^Uh. — When you are travelling in a foreign country by road or river, how provoking it is to pass a capital, historic battle- tiekl, ancient university, cathedral, or ruined castle, on the right and on the left, without stopping to examine them ! It is just so in going around the world. We are now passing the empire of Anam, and entering the Saigon Hiver, only eight degrees north of the equator. Fahrenheit 83°. The river- water is clear and pure. xV white light-house, built by the French, rises above the forest on the high northern promontory ; the southern bank is a plain cov- ered with cocoa-nut groves. The luxuriant beauty of the scene is bewildering. While we write, the ocean is left behind us, and the broad, dark river shrinks within the width of forty rods. The banks are covered witli impenetrable jungle of mangoes, bananas, bamboos, and a thousand creepers twisting their shrubbery into nil manner of entanglement, and covering it with flowers. We are told that the wild-boar takoo refuge here from the tiger on the uplands, and we see parrots rearing their chattering broods, while the monkeys hold perpetual revel. 1 Tl le rn gated cliiet bamboo siii river, and ^ all give p il: inouiituiiis Saigon, that we mil ^ Long bet'or made ns in birds, and 1 name of Ui tlioless, we that the Gi some friend lonely place for us. The con bargained fc one dollar a each drawn passengers ( our travels i Saigon thousand in from those a This is a nin ilate in the '. exclusive ol plants, but of decl in Eur ninii '0]K'. ries. The French rejn monkeys, bi SAIGOM. 287 The river below Saigon lias a serpentine course, and is navi- gated cliietiy by small native vessels, nioviu<^' gracefully under light bamboo sails. The banks rise to greater height as we ascend the river, and variolic kinds of palm grace the diil'erent elevations, until all give place to the eagle-wood and tlie cinnamon on the blue mountains which overlook the lovely valley. Saigon, January 8th. — We closed our eyes last night wishing that we might remain foreve>' afloat on the dark water of the Saigon. Long before morning, however, swarms of mosquitoes and gnats made us impatient for the sho"e, where we felt sure that flowers, birds, and butterflies, were awaiting us. The Blue-book bears no name of United States consul at Saigon. From the deck, never- theless, wo espied the United States flag, and learned, on inquiry, that the German who raised it there had left it to the care of gome friendly native keeper. We inquired no further, and in this lonely place, the only one thus far in our voyage, no one inquired for us. The commandant of La Provence put us ashore in his gig. AVe bargained for the first two carriages we found there, at the rate of one dollar an hour for each, and in these vehicles, called " garries," each drawn by a rough Chinese pony, and having seats for four passengers (a very close fit), a guide, and a servant, we set out on our travels in Cochin China. Saigon is a native city of from sixty thousand to a hundred thousand inhabitants. The European settlement adjoining it diftera from those \ve have seen in Japan and China, only in being French. This is a matter of no special moment, because all foreigners assim- ilate in the East. The population is perhaps two hundred and fifty, exclusive of the garrison. There is a public garden filled with plants, but it wears an air of neglect, in consequence, we think, not of declining trade, but of political insecurity growing out of the war in Europe. All Eastern potentates and nobles maintain menage- ries. The garden at Saigon proclaims itself an appendage to the French rejiublic, by a meagre collection of leopards, tigers, bears, monkeys, birds, and reptiles. The French Government is building A ^ 4 I ...» 288 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. a large palace for the residence of the admiral commanding the forces in Easter" >vatcrs. The native city consists of two towns, standing on two rivers, distant two miles from each other, and connected by a firm road. NATIVE OF SAIGON. The population is by no means homogeneous. The merchants and traders are not Cochin Chinese, but chiefly Chinese, and all classes speak, to some extent, the French language. A happy accord seems to exist between them and the French. All shoM- tlic j^lcas- ing impress of French manners. We alighted from oui- vehicles whenever we found a^iv thing noticeable, and invarialdv were waited upon by polite and assiduous attendants. Wc entered niul inspected a Buddhist temple. The bonzes, with great courtesy, shoM'ed us every thing it contained. Whenever we stojiped, re;i, fruit, and sherbet, M'ere ofi'ered us. The smallest payment was thankfully received, and, when we declined, the refreshments M-ere urged upon us without cost. In short, Saigon is the only place we have found thus far, in the wide world, where everybody seemed FRENCH EMPIRE IN COCHIN CHINA. 281) pleased with us, with themselves, and we had reason to be pleased with everybody. The French have a peculiar facility in cilectiuf^ colonial assim- ilation to their national ways and manners. One exi)eriences the same <jfcntle and kind welcome on the banks of the lower St. Law- rence that he finds hero on the banks of the Saigon. It is almost enough to make us wish that the French nation might be more suc- cessful in extending their foreign dominion. The whole field of French empire in Cochin China, which figures so largely in the ambitious nuinifestocs of the Government in Paris, is hardly more than forty miles square. But France, by means of that possession, has acquired a protectorate over the province of Cambodia, which is adjacent, and nominally belongs to the empire of Anam. The S(-vereign of that empire concedes to France this protectorate over Cambodia, in consideration of the French guarantee of the integrity of his empire. This great potentate, like the ostentatious fiddler, has two strings to his bow ; for, while ho thus enjoys this alliance with France, he at the same time, as titular vassal, claims protec- tion from the Emperor of China. It would be long to tell how, after European discoveries in the East Indies, France energeti- cally attempted to secure positions advantageous for trade and con- quest in Madagascar, Ceylon, and Bengal ; how unsuccessful and vain those attempts were, until the great Colbert found in the ambitious Louis XIV. a monarch wise enough to accept the project of a French East India Company; how successfully that company established factories at Mauritius, at Surat, and Pondi- chery, and other places in India. It would be sad to tell how, in the great war in which France lost nearly all her American posses- sions, she also lost nearly all her acquisitions in the East ; how the French Jesuit missionaries in Cochin China cunningly secured from the native emperor the concession of Saigon to Louis XVI. ; how the French nation exulted in a g.tin of this position in the rear of Ilindostan, from which they might hope to assail and over- throw British dominion c i the Asiatic Continent ; how this ambi- tion of France died, with all ambition of colonial aggrandizement, in the great Revolution of nmety-three ', how that ambition, in 1 t e' ■A % c 200 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA. regard to the East, revived in 1801,111 the period of the Second Empire, and Admiral Charnor enforced the c(mcessi(Hi which had so h)n<r before been made to Lonis XVI. Saigon is hy no means vahieless as Ji seat of commerce. Tlio earth has no more fertile fields than those of Cochin China. Anionic its ]>rodncts arc Inxuries the most desired hy civiliz(.>d nations. AVhile rice is an ahiindant staple, Sai<;(m experts the j!;um of lac- qner, cinnamon, and many useful and jn-ecious woods. It is nut, abtibam's house at baioon. however, chiefly for local trade that France values Saigon. It is a convenient station for commercial and postal steam-lines, hy which she has expected to maintain her prestige as a maritime power of the first rank. Her experience has demonstrated the truth of two political axioms : First, that the possession of extensive foreign col- onies adds immeasurably to the credit and prestige of a nation ; secondly, that a nation which cannot maintain peace at home, can- not permanently hold foreign possessions. As our habit is, we take away from Saigon many photographic QUEEN OF CAMIJODIA. ii'.H illustrations of niiumors, dross, and sfonory. They arc Froncli, ;iiul iidiiiiriibly oxeciitcd. Wu are puzzled, however, in our ctlbrts to (Icterniine the truthfulness of one of them, notwithstandiuuf.itrt iitliciMi vorlHcation. It represents the Queen of ('and)odia, ^^/vy^'yt'c (.f the French Enii)ire, with naked feet and aidcles, encircled by (dstly p)ld hani!;les and jewels, while her head is covered with a Parisian bonnet of the year 1S(12, presented to her, with other articles of European fashion, by the Freneh emperor. ■^^y///y(,y//;/'. '.W/M//I-I QUEEN OF CAMBODIA.' ML % THE EA PART III. THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, STRAITS OF MALACCA, AND CEYLON. I v i- I i m ft THE CHINA Our Distance frorr from Boston. —A Dutch S Sumatra.— TI China Sei home, we rec average of on as if we had I diir riglit the on our left, .at liiids, the relic enjoying calm Sh}(/aj)o?v, night! StiHii penance for in At sunri.sc Ixwrd, with ]\ Tlioy drove ii Australian h:v us, then to M\ taking care of from home, o CHAPTER I. THE CHINA SEA, SmGAPORE, AND THE STRAITS OF SUNDA. Our Distance from Home. — Calm Seas and Temperate Breezes. — Singapore. — A Dispatch from Boston. — The People of Singapore. — Their Habitations. — Life in the Tropics, — A Dutch Steamer. — Our Crew. — A Question of Races. — Rather Hot. — Banca and Sumatra. — The Straits of Sunda, China Sea, January ^th. — In the five months since we left home, we reckon in distances made, eighteen thousand miles, an average of one hundred and twenty miles a day, although it seems as if we had hecn at rest half the time. While w'e are passing on our right tlie extreme promontory of Cochin China, we are leaving on our left, at a distance of one hundred miles, the Philippine Isl- ands, the relic of Spanish empire in the East Indies. We continue enjoying calm seas and temperate breezes. Slngajyore, Jamiary IIM. — Anchored at midnight, and what a niirlit! Stifling cabins and myriads of moscpiitoes. Is this our penance for invading the equator ? At sunrise, the TTnited States consul, Mr. Jewell, came on board, with Mr. Young, of the house of Busteed & Company. Tlicy drove us, in a M-ell-hung English carriage, behind two fine Anstrahan bays, first to the consulate, where a breakfast awaited us, then to Mr. Young's pretty villa, on the hill, where he is kindly taking care of us. Three months having elapsed since we heard from home, our first inquiry was, whether the telegraph-cable I 296 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. has been laid from Point de Galles to this place. " Yes," said llr. Young, " I received to-day a dispatch which came from Boston in twenty-four hours." It is reassuring to come again into instan- taneous communication with home and "the rest of mankind." The new wire brings European intelligence of six weeks' later date than we read at IIong-Kong. This intelligence, however, whicli we so eagerly sought, was contained in a meagre statement. " Nothing important happened since republic proclaimed at Paris. Much speculation. Probably Orleans family. Papers promise ex- pulsion German armies. Perhaps anarchy." We enter British India from the east at Singapore. It is tlie chief commercial town of the colony, acquired by purchase and or- ganized by the British Government in 1824, as the Eastern Straits Settlement ; the name derived from the straits of Malacca. This jurisdiction extends north by west to the island of Pcnang, off tlie Malay Peninsula. Penang is officially regarded as the cajntal, although the business of the government is carried on here. Sin- gapore is a frc'^ port. It has an aggregate population of one hun- dred and fifty thousand, which is rapidly increasing. There are five hundred Europeans. British subjects, together with less than a dozen citizens of the United States, monopolize Western naviija- tion and commerce. More than half of the population arc Chinese, chiefly merchants and bankers engaged in the domestic trade, and that which is carried on with adjacent xisiatic countries — Cliina, Siam, Burinah, Java, and the Eastern Archipelago — others arc me- chanics and gardeners. It would be an effectual antidote to tlie California croaking against the pagan Chinese, to see the protection and encouragement which the British authorities extend to the Chinese immigration here. The Jew has not failed to malre good his position. lie is, as everywhere else, a broker in small and sec- ond-hand wares. The residue of the population are chiefly native, perhaps aboriginal Malays, with an accession of indolent and tlirift- less immigrants from Ilindostan. The seamen are of many Orien- tal races, natives of Goa, Javanese, Hindoos, Malays, Burmese, Siam- ese, Cingalese, Abyssinians, and negroes. With this conglomerate ])opulation, it is not singular that Singapore is a harbor for vagrants and waifs f say that Si: rope and th Australia. silks and t( tin of Band turcs. Lad mart for art people no 1 imitations o here to cur home. But quisitely bei mounted wi on every sid in^s in sane large trade. The Eurc concessions, ciousness, cl AYestern idc Malays. W were found above the gn ritv against retain the an Here, as this one exhi under the pa European ski The juml religions hen ers contemp Bramin temj severe-look in and a cathed SINGAPORE AND ITS PEOPLE. 297 and waifs from all parts of tlie East. It is almost unnecessary to gay that Singapore is a central station of commerce between En- rope and the far East, Burmah, China, Japan, the Archipelago, and Australia. India opium, camphor, and lacqner, Java cofiee, China silks and teas, Manila tobacco, spices of Sumatra and Borneo, the tin of Banda, etc., are exchanged for British and French manufac- tures. Ladies will be interested in knowing that Singapore is the mart for articles of jewelry and vertu of all sorts, such as civilized people no less than barbarians delight in. Parisian and London imitations of Oriental articles of those sorts are sold by the natives here to curiosity-seeking Europeans, who would reject them at Lome. But there is also an abundance ot native productions, ex- quisitely beautiful ; sea-shell, coral, precious stones, tigers' claws mounted with gold, tigers' skins, and birds-of-paradise, tempt us on every side, while the most delicate Chinese porcelain, and carv- ings in sandal-wood and eagle-wood for incense, are staples of a large trade. The European dwellings do not differ from those in the Chinese concessions, while those of the Asiatic immigrants, by greater spa- ciousness, cleanliness, and comfort, manifest an advance toward Western ideas. This improvement, however, is slow among the Malays. Wlien this race became known to the Europeans, they were found living in buildings raised on stakes four or five feet above the ground, for the desirable purpose of drainage and secu- rity against reptiles and wild beasts. The Malays at Singapore retain the architectural habits of their ancestors. Here, as at Saigon, the foreigners maintain a public garden, but this one exhibits the indescribable luxuriance of tropical vegetation, under the painstaking -hand of the Chinese cultivator, directed by European skill. The jumble of diverse races has produced a strange medley of religions here. There are several Chinese temples, which foreign- ers contemptuously call, here as in China, "joss-houses;" one Bramin temple, with its sacred cows and goats; half a dozen severe-looking Mohammedan mosques ; a Boman Catholic church ; and a cathedral of the Church of England. The British Govern- 298 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. ment tolerates all tliese religions, from tlie same political motive with which the emperors tolerated the various modes of worship which prevailed in the Roman Avorld. Although these various re- ligions in India are not considered by the people as equally true, or by the philosophers as equally false, the magistrate regards them as equally useful. This toleration produces mutual indulgence, with- out religious discord. A secretary waited upon Mr. Seward, with an invitation from the governor, who is now at Penang. Mr. Young, with a very hurried invitation, gathered around m a large and distinguished company of the official people, merchants and bankers of Singapore, with whom we have passed the evening pleasantly. ** Jammrii Vlih. — It has been a new experience to sleep in cham- bers, with doors and windows opening on a broad veranda, with- out the protection of panels or glass. It was an experience equally novel, when, stepping on the veranda, at six o'clock, we foimd tables spread with tea, delicate tropical fruits, and ices, while the entire family, including ladies and beautiful children, joined us there, having already returned from their customary exhilaratinn; walks and rides. So it seems that life in the tropics is not with- out pleasant and invigorating excitements and exercise. Stoomschejyen Koningin tier Nederlanden^ January 12th, Even- ing. — Having again changed our nationality, we are afloat, this time, imder the tricolor flag of the Netherlands, carefully rej^is- tered, and bound for the island of Java. Our side-wheel steamer is rated at only four hundred and fifty tons, and we think is over- rated at that. She is the flrst steamer which was built on tliat island, and is thirty-four years old. Though not improved by a2;c, it must be admitted that she has held her own against time and typhoon. Though the smallest craft we have yet sailed in, she flourishes a long if not a great name. Heaven save all persons but penal convicts from being cramped into such contracted bortlis, with the mercury standing at 99° I Wc indulge this objurgation hy THE ISLAND OF SUMATRA. 299 is not witli- virtiic of tlie traveller's license to find fault. Although the cabins are small, they arc " as neat as a Binningham pin ; " and, while the hatchways are open, the ventilation is perfect. A table stands in the centre of the upper deck, protected by a permanent hurricane awning, and remains covered throughout the whole day with equa- torial luxuries. But the peculiar institution of the Dutch Steam Navigation Company is, another table standing across the beam, midships, on which decanters are always kept full of "Kaneel Liker," maraschino, absinthe, curagoa, Schiedam schnapps, brandy, mm, and we know not what other "appetizers," to which the Dutch passengers resort continually, without a suspicion of singu- larity, and without expense. The platfoi*m of the deck is covered with flowers enough to constitute a conservatory, and with baskets of various and exquisite fruits, thoughtfully brought on board, and arranged for us, by our consid. When we came on board this morning, with many friends, they congratulated us on having " a good cloudy day." It was the first time we ever knew " cloudy weather" at sea the subject of felicitation. We are already reminded that we have entered on a new geographical and political study — that of the Oriental Archipelago. Wo are running down the northeastern coast of the rich island of Sumatra, which is of itself almost large enough to be a continent, and which the equator divides, as it divides the whole world, into equal parts. Only one-fourth of it, with a population of a million, has been subjected to Western rule, and this is a Dutch jolony. The other three-fourths, with three millions of people, iire states ruled by native princes, some of wjiom are independent, others under Dutch protection. Sumatra has a commercial importance only inferior in the Archipelago to that of Java. Small islands cluster together so closely on our left hand as to give us for a channel almost an inland sea, a continuation of the straits of Malacca. It is in few places more than ten miles wide, and smooth like a river. Its shores are low and wear a rich green verdure. We noticed a profuse shower of rain, at a distance of two miles, while the sky beyond it, as well as over our heads, was bright and cloudless. Our captain, whose professional career dates S.:^ 300 THE EVSTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. from tlie building of the stoomschepen Koningin der Nederlanden, assures us that, while rain is frequent in all parts of this equatorial voyage, it is always raining at the place where that particular shower was falling. Our crcYt^, drawn from Singapore, is a mixture of the Asiatic sea- men of that place of which we have spoken. Those of them who come from Western or Southern Asia, wear a light, graceful, and picturesque costume, strongly contrasting with the plain and coarse dress of the Chinese. They evidently make faithful use of the bath. Varying in complexion from tawny to black, they have regular and delicate features. They exhibit nothing of that stolid reserve which causes the Chinese to be regarded as sullen and contemptu- ous. Their different languages are based on the ancient Sanscrit. Each has an alphabet. Perhaps it is for this reason that they ac- quire any European language easily, and speak it with much cor- rectness. It will be a curious study for us to inquire how much this greater adaptability of the southern and western Asiatic races to European intercourse is due to their earlier and more intimate acquaintance with foreigners. We are now inclined to tiiink that a closer ethnological affinity exists between the European and the Hindoo and Malay nations than between the Europeans and the Mongolians ; and, again, that there is a closer affinity between the Hindoo and the Malay nations than between the Mongolian and the Malay. However it may have happened, there is a contrast quite as perceptible between the rude and vigorous population of Northern China and the gentle and docile nat'ves of Sumatra and Malacca, as there was at the time of the discovery of America be- tween the fierce tribes of New England and New York and the harmless natives of San Salvador and Hispaniola. float about i Off the Island of Banca, January ISth. Fahrenheit 90°.— Rather hot for January, according to our way of thinking. They say that latitude affects climate, but we do not sec it or feel it. Yesterday we left Singapore on the parallel of latitude one degi'ee seventeen minutes north. At one o'clock this morning we cross the equator, and now we are two degrees south of it. Yet, for any A BOA AFLOAT. 301 consciousness wc have, tlic ^veather at the three points admits of no degrees of comparison. It is hot at Singapore — it is hot under the equator — it is just as hot here. Perhaps the maxim " iVe curat ruhumis'*^ applies to the laws of Nature as well as human laws. We have always read that life on a Dutch sailing-craft is easy and lazy. The Koningin der Xcderlanden does not disprove it. While our captain insists that he makes seven and a half knots, our measurement on the chart shows that we are really going only six. Our passengers, however, are the most active people in the world. They show their vigor in two ways — one in changing their dress every hour to get cool, the other in taking schnapps every half-hour to get hot again. Crossing the line, after all. especially at night, is no great affair. We felt no concussion, and, as the passengers were all in their berths, the customary nautical ceremonies were omitted. Charts show us high mountains in the interior on either side. Banca seems covered with forests, interrupted here and there by cultivation. Sumatra presents a low, sedgy shore, large pieces of which, covered with jungle, are continually breaking loose, and float about in the forms of pretty green islets on the dark sea. Of course, every one desires to haul up to them and see what are the plants and flowers which cover them. A Dutch skipper yielded to this impulse a short time ago. The captain, alighting on the float- ing mass, had just set his foot on a cactus-stump, when a huge boa- constrictor reared his glossy head and proclaimed his proprietor- ship of the island by violent hisses. The invader retreated, leav- ing the " lord of the isle " to navigate his crazy craft as best he might. Here we are with the Malay Peninsula just behind us, the Spice Islands, Sumatra, Banca, Borneo, Java, Celebes, Floris, Timor, Booro, Ceram, New Guinea, and a thousand lesser ones all around us. We read and " hear tell " of elephants that break down telegraph-poles in rubbing their hard hides ; of tigers, lions, and leopards, always prowling through the jungle ; of shiny serpents in coils like cables ; of monkeys playing their antics in palm-tree groves ; of parrots, paroquets, peacocks, and birds-of-paradise, that I ^ t ik i % ■ - -J, c 1 :502 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. excel the tloral vc^^etatiun in brilliancy of colors; and yet all that we can see of them is occasionally a captive beast in a menagerie, or a stufted bird in a curiosity-shop at Singapore — a new illustration of a discovery heretofore announced, that going round the world is not the way to see it. I^evertheless, it is something to learn in the near vicinity the topography of these islands, which are the native homes of the various tribes of the jNEalav race : to learn somethiiiir of the character and condition of that gentle race, whose languid energies arc now excited to activity and directed by their Dutch conquerors. They possess a wealth peculiarly their own — the metals, invaluable teakwood, and coffee, with spices, dyes, and gums, aromatics, and roots used in art and medicine, brilliant feathers and glossy skins of beasts of prey, which taste and luxury require in every condition. Even this little island on onr left reg- ulates, by its production, the market of tin as eiiectually as the old Almaden mines in Spain and the New Almaden mines in Califor- nia regulate that of quicksilver throughout the world. Moreover, there are, in various parts of these islands, ruins of cities and tem- ples, which seem to indicate a primeval civilization, which has passed away without leaving either record or tradition. By-and-by, ommercial intercourse will render research among tliese antiqii- ties practicable, perhaps proiitable. Meanwhile, we must be satis- fied with an inspection of Java, a design which we shall be able tv execute if the Koningin der Xederlanden shall live to complete this, the ten hundred and twentieth of her voyages. Despite our resolution, this equatorial travel is working a change in our habits. The heat becomes insupportable at ten o'clock, and drives us to a siesta. At sunset, a breeze springs up. clouds gather, a brilliant display of electricity begins, which is con- tinued until midnight, and brings refreshing rains. So the hot day having become our night, the cool night becomes our day for exer- cise, writing, and conversation. Jamiary lUh. — "We crossed, last night, the entrance of the straits of Sunda, the great channel of trade between Europe, China. and Japan. Can any one doubt the unity of tho human family, A MONSOOX. when ho rcciills the fact that tho civil wav which convnlscd tho United States, five years ago, had its paiulul e])isodes in this dis- tant sea i AVc eiicoiiutered in the ])assage one of those monsoons wlm'h render it difficult and dangerous. The storm caused the Ivoningin aforesaid to dance in a manner most undignified and unbecoming this grave and "ancient mariner." The ports were closed, the cabins grew unendurable, and the deck became tho coiunion sleeping-room of the passengers. SINGAPORE. • 4 ■r ■A 1 ft 1 ■3 CHAPTER II. THE CAPITAL OF JAVA. The City of Batavia.— Tljc Flotol dcs Indcs.— A New-England Sabbath.— Malay PcrvanU. — Tlie Kind's Plahi. — Population of Java. — The Queen of the P]ast. — Departure for Buitcnzorg. — Maimer of Travelling. — The Vicc-Kegal Kesideuec. — The Climate of Java. — The Baths of Buiteuzocg. Ijatavhi, January \(Mh. — At sunrise we were tossing in tlic open roadstead, four miles from tlic shore. The monsoon was pas;r, tliough the sea had not subsided. The skies cleared at eight o'clock, giving^ us a view of a long, level, green coast, swelling upward into lofty blue mountains. There is much less shipping here than at Singapore, but the diversity of flags indicates a not less various commerce. The smallest of all steam-tugs was seen bounding over the waves and distributing passengei'sand freights, among steamers wdiicli are going out to neighboring Dutch ports throughout the Archipelago, ^yhcn she Jiad done this, she rounded up to our steamer, and received us on board. On the way, we passed a steamship-of-war, freighted with troops, going to repress a native rebellion in Borneo. A pretty stream, which once stagnated in the jungle, has been converted into a broad canal, that now aflbrds navigation from tlie roadstead to the heart of the city of Batavia. The custom-honse officers took our own statcinent for our number, ages, occupations, luggage, and intentions. Malay drivers, the smallest men we ever Baw, with the heaviest sort of European barouches, drawn by mini- THE STllEETS OF HATAVIA. 305 atnrc ponies, whirled on a gallop over streets smooth as a race- course, bordered by substantial white cotta,iJ:;e (hvelliii<jfs, enil)ow- ered ii» groves of pijie, palmetto, ])alm, bamboo, India-rubber, aiul iiiiinosa. These cottages, which might l,»e mistaken for villas, have deep marble porticoes or broad verandas, set off with vases of tropi- cal tlowers, and make an clfective display of small but tastefid gar- den statuary. This colonial town, like the cities of the mother- iss a native BTBEST IN BATAVIA. country, is traversed by well-built canals. Ilorse-cars are moving swiftly on smooth street-railways. This enterprise, so novel in the East, belongs to Mr. Pells, who, though a native of the Netherlands, has long been United States banker, trader, and vice-consul. So closely does the city assimilate to Holland, that it seems to us we have gone quite through the East, and are already in Europe. We drove to the Ilotel des ludcs, the first tavern we have had ■•!>* ^ !> vrti ■•t 1 .1 Bi .1 306 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC, 4 4 occasion to seek since we left Salt Lake City, if we except the Chi- nese inns on the way from Peking to the Great Wall. This hotel is a building of one story, surrounding a circular court, with a higher central edifice, which contains the proper offices, drawing- rooms, and saloons, a veranda surrounding the whole. The outer buildings, occupied as private apartments, are connected by coiri- dors with the centre building. In a scrupulously neat bathing- house attached to our apartment, we enjoyed, for the first time, the full luxury of an Oriental bath, for the bath has not yet been suc- cessfully introduced into the Furopean settlements in Japan and China. This bath consists of a marble basin fifteen feet in diame- ter, the water exactly the temperature of the air, clear, and deep enough for swimming. It being Sunday, we composed ourselves early for the enjoy- MAIIttlKl) WOMAN OK JAVA. mcnt of a 'N'cw-England Sabbath, a day of absolute rest. But tliis was not to be. A host of native SLreet-pcdlers had ibllowed us to MALAY SERVANTS. 307 the hotel. They sat clown and chattered on the veranda, they crowded into our parlor, " singly, by pairs, and by the dozen," and, in spite of repulse and remonstrance, forced upon us a display of tlicir cheap but ostentatious wares. For the first time, we have luaiutained a resolution a?j;ainst the itinerant merchant, yielding oiilv in the case of a blind trader. Even he left us, at last, Aveary with our delay in findino- the guilders required for the purchase. But we called him back and bought a pair of green-velvet gold- embroidered slippers. Breakfast at twelve. Its excellence, con- trasting with that of breakfasts at home, was that nothing on the table was hot. On what principle is it that Europeans in the East smother the delicate flavor of rice in thirty or forty piquant con- diments ? All the servants are Malays. They arc meek and un- obtrusive, but not servile ; willing and diligent, but not quick. Tidy and even tasteful in dress, they make an attractive costume with a guilder's worth of printed muslin. The Malay is, on an average, two inches shorter than the Euro- peans or Mongolian, with scai jely any beard, and the sexes are un- (listinguishable by their dress. Mr. Pells, advised, from Singapore, of our coming, came at one d'clock and immediately removed us to his pleasant villa on the '•King s Plain," which is the Hyde Park of P>atavia, a shaded lawn, four miles long, and half a mile wide. Primitive national habits, however, are not relinquished here. The " King's Plain" is the (•oiumon pasturage of the milch-cows of the city. An artist would find a pretty study in this quiet scene, in which the aninuils, cro])- ping the rich grass, seem scarcely more at leisure than their Malay aitendants, sitting under the trees, in picturesque attitude and cos- tume. In going to our new residence, we stopped to hear the "King's Itand," aiul lingered there until sunset witnessing the evening promenade of the whole Euro])ean popidati* a, which, including military and naval olHcers, numbers six thousand. There was a }2;nttcs(iue display of carriages and liveries of fashions now obso- lete in Europe. Gentlemen as well as ladies and children disdain to cover their heads after sunset, while all "sorts and conditions of K C''^ 308 THE EASTERN" ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. « I men " wear white gloves, and all have the staid and gentle Dutcli manner. Will onr friends consult the tables of population ? AYe think the island of Java is the most densely-populated country in A JAVANESE UtBL. the world. There are fourteen millions of people within an area of forty-five thousand square miles. Tlic city of Batavia, with a diameter of eight miles, contains one hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants — more than half of these are Chinese. The residue, with the exception of the few Europeans, is divided nearly equally between the two native Malay races, Javanese and Sundcse. All the Malavs arc Mohammedans. The Chinese retain their native heathenism. The Europeans, of course, are Christians, but free from religious zeal or fervor. Batavia challenges the title of " Queen of the East.'' Certainly it presents a delightful contrast to the towns of .Japan and Cliiiin, while its profusion of equatorial shade-trees and flowers makes it far more pleasing than any place we have at home. The settltMnent of New York, by the Dutch, and that of Java were coutempora- VISIT TO BUITENZORG. 309 iieous. Each was suiTouncled by aboriginal tribes — those around i^ew York sparse, those around Batavia popuh^us. The aboriginal races around New York have virtually disappeared, and are re- placed by millions of European derivation ; the aboriginal races around Batavia, on the other hand, remain in even greater force than at the time of the conquest, while the European population is only twenty-seven thousand. Again, neither the Netherlands nor any European state has kept a foothold within the vast territory now covered by the United States ; while the Dutch not only re- tain their first dominion in Java, but have extended it over the whole island and a large portion of the Archipelago. What a con- trast there has been in the processes of civilization which have pro- duced results so widely different in the two hemispheres ! The Governor, or, as he is called, the "Residente" of Batavia, visited Mr. Seward to-day, and tendered us the hospitalities of the province. The Governor-General of the Dutch East Indies resides at Buitenzorg, thirty-six miles distant, and has invited us to be his ii'iiosts there. The intense heat to-day has not only overpowered ii<, but seems to have overpowered the whole i)opulation of Batavia. Our morning rest was protracted until evening, and then deluging rains made us prisoners. Ijt(itenzo)'(j, Januar}/ \Wi.^ — "We yesterday appointed six for our hour of dc[)arture. It was our own fault, or rather that of our lujrgage, and not the fault of the post-ofiice, that we were delayed until half-past seven. The admiration of Batavia, which we ex- pressed yesterday, was somewhat modified as we came through the city and suburbs this morning. "We were, at first, unable to decide by what name we should call the dwellings of Europeans, whetlicr bungalows, cottagos, or villas. We now found them, each with its beautiful grove, so exactly like to every other, that, un- aided, we shall be quite unable, on our return to the city, to find Mr. Pell's residence, or the street on which it stands. To tell the truth, moreover, the right line in geometry is not the line of beauty, nor is the paralicf jgram, although a very convenient figure tor many uses, especially adapted to landscape-gardening. Kor '1 i 1^^ 6:::^ ■i\ 310 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. was it altogether gratifying to find the "King's Plain" soakiiK' and miry, much more suitable for a dairy-meadow than a park. These strictures, however, we now think hypercritical ; we mu.st still pronounce Batavia the most attractive city we have ever seen. The road to Buitonzorg is well graded, perfectly macadamized, and, what is better, completely bordered and shaded on either side BCF.NE IN JAVA. by liigh, thick hedges of heliotrope, cactus, and creepers, all in bloom. Over these hedges, the light bamboo lines the avonuo. opening only to reveal the native cottages, peeping from iiiulor ])alm-groves. All the people we sec, whether about their huiublo dwellings, or moving on the high-road, seem busy, contented, and happy. Oidy two beggars approached us on the way, and those timidly; both were blind. mcnt. Sevc A FASCINATING RESIDENCE. an The manner of travel here is on the postal system, which was never known in America, and is now superseded by raih-oads in Europe. Wc have Mr. Pell's stately old coach, which has seats for tjix passengers inside, and ample room for four servants outside. We carry no trunks, our wardrobes being stored in the capacious boxes under the seats. Four horses draw us over the level plain ; more are added in cUmbing hills. The driver has two assistants or runners {lopers}^ who, by constantly applying their lashes, keep the ponies up to running-speed. They are whisked off and replaced ai stages of seven miles. We made the journey in three hours. At each stage, the traveller pays four cents to each loper, and ten or twenty cents to the driver. If Batavia is lascinating, this suburban viceregal residence is supremely so. The palace stands at the south side of the native city. The approach is through a park, covered with a greener and smoother sward, we imagine, than even England or Holland can exhibit. Five hundred deer are seen reclining or feeding under the lofty shade-trees. The palace is said to be on the model of Blen- heim — however this may be, we recognize the plan of our own Cap- itol at Washington. Like every thing else in this favorite Dutch colony, it hap])ily combines good taste with elegance and comfort. The governor-general has received us very kindly, although not without something of the stiffness of official ceremony. The ladies seem to regard us as an accession, not unwelcome, to a society cir- cumscribed and somewhat monotonous. The Dutch East Indies are ruled absolutely by directions from the Hague. Practically, the governor-general is viceroy. At the time of the conquest, two native sovereigns, with the pompons titles of sultan and emperor; divided the island between them, one of the territories being known as Java, the other as Sunda. The (loscentlants of each of these sovereigns being subsidized, though really divested of power, retain certain contracted domains, with .titular rank, in subordination to the authority of the Dutch Govern- ment. Several other native kings, subsidized in the same way, have a somewhat similar domain and tenure. AVith these qualifica- tions, the executive government is administered by the governor- = ■*« ^ ■ general, w lluine govc llic Dii natives, ha interval of Kapoleonic ti'ol of Frai Britain. January It has no i \ '% ii*a i! ^^ LILY rOXD. 313 general, with the aid of an executive council appointed by the Home government. Tlie Dutch, not without severe and frequent contests with the natives, have held sway here since the year IGIO, with only an interval of from 1811 to 1810, when among the events of the Kupoleonic war in Europe, Holland having passed under the con- trol of France, Java was seized and held for five years by Great Britain. January Vbth. — Shall we note the climatic features of Java ? It has no spring and no autumn — only sunnner and winter. It f0- L[I.V I'ONII l'Al,,V( K (iinH'NllS. .lAVA. 314 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. f 1 rains all summer, and is comparatively dry during the harvest- time in winter. The present season is the summer. It rained so constantly yesterday that we could not enter a carriage, or stc'|) on the ground. This morning, Governor-General Mver, with the ladies, gave us a drive in the botanical gardens attached to the ])alace. All the world knows that they are scientifically planted, but why give them a technical name? They arc of princely di- mensions, and arc inconceivably magnificent, for they contain, or are understood to contain, every attainable tropical tree, ])lant, or flower. Of the palm alone there are a hundred species. Dense groves of tree-ferns are interlaced with myriads of orchids, cov- ered with what one might well imagine to be the very flowers of paradise, and we were at a loss to say Avhicli form of life in the tropics, the .vegetable or the animal, excels in color. Man's hand has planted and trained the trees and flowers, but the gorgeous troops of birds which inhabit them arc voluntary residents there, making the shade "vocal with their ransic." These groves are interspersed with lakes, whose waters murmur under the per- fumed pressure of the crimson lily and the sacred lotus. These lakes are the homes of some varieties of tropical birds ; swans, black and white, are domesticated in them ; and the cockatoo, with his creamy plumage, seems unconscious of imprisonment in his spacious gilded cage, so constructed as to afibrd him ample sunshine and cool bath. Alighting from our carriages, we took a path which leads through a bamboo-grove so dense that the down which its delicate leaves cast on the smooth gi'avel takes the form of a tender moss. This moss, taking root, interweaves so closely that it is not de- ranged by the footstep. The very air of this fairy grove seemed to us to hold a soothing verdure. But it is not alone in the lakes, groves, and lawns, that the feathered race contents itself at Euiteii- zorg : " This guest of summer. The temple-haunting martlet does approve By his loved masonry, that heaven's breath Smiles sweet and wooingly here." TROPICAL FOLIAGE, 3i: At sunset, thousands of martins gather for the night under the eaves of the pahice. Sitting closely to each other, they are mistaken by a careless observer for a blackened bead, which extends without break around the cornice ot the entire editiee. Perhaps we dilute TROPICAL FOLIAOE, JAVA. too much on tropical Nature, but its first effect upon all minds is to excite a wish never to leave it. "VVe almost contracted for at least an occasional home at Nagasaki. AVe left Hong-Kong and Singa])ore reluctantly ; but Batavia, and more than all Buitenzorg, wins our thoughts irresistibly away from all that is practical in life, to delight in repose and serene contemplation. The truth, ho\vever, is, that the admiration of tropical scenery, though universal, wears off as s^uddenly as it comes. We have not c ii 316 THE EASTERN AIlCIIirELAGO, ETC. thus for found .an American or European content Avitli a gonial clime. The merchant, mariner, or missionary, even the wuineii and children, stay here against their wills, and wait impatiently lor their release this month or the next, or, at iarthest, this year or tlic next. If we should forget every thing else at Buitcnzorg, we arc not likely to forget its baths. Leaving the palace-door, and driviiii; through a winding, palm-shaded lane, we came to the baml)u(> grove. Dismissing carriage and attendants there, we penetrated JAVANESE FRUIT. to its dark centre, by a tangled foot-path. There we found a marble basin, eighty feet across, filled with flowing water. Tlie depth is regulated at will, and a slight bamboo rail is stretched SCEXE IX JAVA. 317 DPross the bnsla for security against accident. Tall palm-trees pro- tect the bather from the sun, while the surrounding grove is an impenetrable screen. Coining out of the bath, we picked up what we thought to be a green walnut. On removing the hard, acrid shell, pungent scarlet mace betrayed itself; breaking through this, and the inner shell, which it covered, a fragrant, white, milky pulp disclosed the incipient nutmeg. BCE.S'E IN .I.vVA. i i ft CHAPTER III. If » < «r •:' I EXCURSIOX INTO THE INTERIOR. A Balking Horse. — Cultivation of Rico. — Tropical Flowers. — Surabaya. — The Rcj^ont Prn- vAyo. — Dutch Culonization. — How Jiiva ir< governoil. — Handong. — Tlio Refrcnt mil the Interpreter. — A Gouty Monarch. — The Regent's Income. — How he spends it. Surahat/a, January 'ilst. — The governor-general and his csti niable family dismissed us, after a very early breakfast, on an o\- c'lirsion M'liich is affording us an opportunity to see something of the mountains, and more of the simple people of this beautiful island. Still travelling in Mr. Pell's spacious coach, with government orders for relays, we drove rapidly through the quaint and quiet streets of the pretty little city of Buitenzorg. So long as we kept the plain, we had only one annoyance — a balking horse — one df eight. Peasantry, at every halt, assisted the lopers in rolling the heavy carriage against the refactory animal's heels, and so, whether he w'illed to go or not, we got on. Crossing a small stream, Me climbed irregular volcanic mountains, and came through a goi-i^e between two of them ; the one seven thousand feet high, the other four thousand. The mountain-sides are terraced \'ith rice-fiehU, one above the other. These fields Avere covered with standiiii; water. The successive terraces show the crop at every stage of its growth. On the upper terrace, the young plant is seen, rescmblinir grass just sprouted from the seed ; on the level just below, .^iniile stalks of rice just transplanted ; below this, fields of the grain at successive periods of its growth ; until, at the foot of the mountain, niCE-CrLTIVATION". ;5i!) le mountain, it is already ripened, and ready for the knilL'. We say the lii[fv^ tor neither cradle, n<>r scythe, nor sickle, is used in the rice-iields iii .lava. The Koran commands the huslianduian to cut oil' each iiiilividual stalk singly. This injunction the pious Moslem never disohoys. Kicc-cultivation is a very laborious process. A prairie farmer, wc think, would despair, if he were obliged to trans})lant his wheat- cfop from its lirst bed, plant by plant; he would die, if it were necessary to Avatcr it, even once during its growth. It would be loft to rot in the field if he were denied a ''reaper," or at least a cradle or sickle ; it would waste in the barn or stack if he could not procure a threshing-machine or a fanning-mill. On the other hand, here each blade of rice is removed to a new bed, and from its plant- inii' until its ripening it is irrigated once every day. When it is irathered, the kernels arc separated from the husk by hand. Not- withstanding this vast labor, rice is the chief production, as it is the chief food of all the Asiatic races, constituting half the po])ulation (if the globe. The cause of the productiveness of Java (greater than that of any portion of the earth) readily discloses itself to the must careless observer as he passes through the country. It is a combination of eipiatorial heat, volcanic soil, and perennial moun- tain-streams. These rivulets are subdivided at their springs, and conducted around and down the winding terraces to the base of the mountain, where they are in like manner gathered and poured in sparkling cascades down the steep declivity ; then to be again sub- divided, and made to perform the same gentle service as before to successive terraces below. We know well enough the slow progress of science and art at home, but who taught this Malay peasantry this skill in hydranlics, which surpasses that of any civilized people ? We are now seeing that wc might have spared ourselves the trouble of threading the walks of the botanical gardens at Bui- tenzorg. All around us, every way we turn, whichever way wc look, are innumerable species of palm, the great banyan, exquisite tree-ferns thirty or forty feet high, sparkling witli parasitic flowers; fragrant hedges of heliotrope fifteen feet high, now in full bloom — % jS^ 320 THE EASTERN" ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. *•* «« 4 not monotonous blue as witli us, but of every color and hue — alter- nating '.vitli other hedges of the grotesque cactus of a hundred shapes and equally splendid in bloom. Every one is familiar with the lily of the valley, but we find here the lily of the mountain, a stately flower giving out even a sweeter odor than its little name- sake. Mountains shine with white lilies, and lakes with the incom- parable lot-i. Although cotfee-plantations spread a broad, dark shadow behind flowery hedges, yet the bright green rice-fields are never out of the landscape. Where these allow space, there aie meadows gay with azaleas of infinite variety, set in borders of pink and white and crimson oleanders, which attain here the stature of the magnolia. AVe h ve found rest and refreshment at the village of Surabaya. a pleasant resort in a mountain r.mphitheatre, for the dwellers on the ;ea-coast. The clearing ap of a rain-storm has just given u? instead of the rainbow, an equatorial phenomenon — a broad, pris- matic column, stretching from the centre of the heavens, ([iiiie down the mountain-side, resting on the plain below and flooding: the valley with a gorgeous light. The tul'^'' (Thote does not differ, either in pretension, costliness, or inea^TPncss, f'-om like service at Catskill or other mountain resorts in our o'a a country. Sjlandjioei', January 'ilst. — We left our balky horse at Sura- baya. A brake, with an iron shoe, was fixed on a hind-wheel, Not- withstanding these checks, we were rolling rapidly down into \\w next valley, when the alarm sounded that a wheel was on fire. It was extinguished, and we were thundering forward M'ith grciiter velocity than before, when we had another fright — the cliiiin dtiln shoe broke. A rope of bull'alo hide was substituted for it, and we liad scarcely taken the road again, when the shoe itself gave wav. But, with careful driving, and our lopers holding us hack, wr escaped harm. 80 at six o'clock wo entered this very ])retty vil lage, which, although a native one, is laid out in streets and sqiiaris, with that degree of geometrical precision, cnnd ornamented with that peculiar taste, which is everywhere so observable in the Neth- REGENT PRAWIPvO DA KEDYA. 321 erlands. The governor-general liaving dispatclied notice of our eoiiiing, and also sent with us his young kinsman Mr. Lowe, avc were met outside of the town by a native subaltern officer, in Dutcli uniform, and conducted to the palace in the centre of a park largei* tlian the Capitol-grounds at Washington. Here, under a tasteful porte-cochet'e, we were received by the Regent Prawiro da Kedyu. He is a lineal descendant of the long-since dethroned Kings of Pad- jadjiira in the western empire of Java, and bears the titular hon- « 1 TlIK UEliKNT rilAWIKO DA UKUYA. ors of Padhc Sonnongoniz. The regent is thirty years old, digni- tiod and liandsonie, and has pleasing manners. A ^lohannnedan, ho wciU's a turban of orange and black muslin, a tight black-cloth jacket, with large gold buttons, and a standing collar, on M'hidi siiarklc three enormous diamoiuls, and with the whitest of linen it neck aiul wrist. A mrnng of gay-colored muslin, painted with li,L,nu'('s emblematic of his rank, hangs from his waist over black trousers. White stockings and gold-embroidered velvet shoes com- 323 THE EASTERN ARCniPELAGO, ETC. n •1 *>* J ' i i plete liis dress. He wears at his side a sliort sword, witli scabbard of gold, and hilt profusely covered with diamonds. Owing to the luiniidity of the climate, a customary law of land- scape gardening is so far reversed that the area which immediateh- surrounds the palace, although ornamented with trees, is paved with gravel instead of being a green lawn. The palace, one storv in height, is equal in its dimensions to the White House. The model and style of the buildings are perfect, but the materials ave fragile, and the construction unsubstantial and cheap. There is a ludicrous contrast between the vaulted ceiling resting on a double row of graceful columns, and the rough, uneven bamboo floor so light that the whole house trembles under every footstep. The fur- niture, entirely European, plain and ill selected, must have been supplied by some second-hand dealer in Amsterdam. Our princely host showed us our several apartments. The dinner at which he presided had the substantial character of a European feast with the addition of the curry, fruits, and sweets, of the island. x\ftcr leaving the table we were serenaded by a band of native musicians. Their music is derived from Ilindostan. The instruments arc reeds, bells, and a sort of violin. The tones are soft and monoto- nous, and free from discord, with a barely perceptible melody. Too weary to sit through the protracted entertainment, we retired t(j rest, with the strains still falling on our ears like the rustling of a gentle wind through the tree-tops. Sj I and} loer, January 22<I. — Dutch colonization has a story as simi»lc as its results are wonderful. The Netherlands Goveniniciit seventy or eighty years ago actpiired the Dutch East India ( oiii- pany's titles to its possessions in the East, and substituted itself in the place of that great mercantile establishment. Using the national force as occasion required to perfect and maintain acqui- sitions, they brought the whole of Java under their political rule. Having done this, the Government api)ropriatcd absolutely to tlie crown whatever lands were unoccu])ied. They compounded with the two native sovereigns before mentioned and their vassal kin;:.'- for the management of the estates which were under cuilivaiioii, BAXDOXG. 323 and the disposal of their products. After this, they gradually extinguished by purchase the rights of the native proprietors, and so have been continually enlarging the royal domain. By way of commending their rule to the natives, they have left to the fam- ilies of the dispossessed rulers not only a titular rank, but they jiave employed their chiefs in the management of their several Lv-tates, allowing to each the official honor of regent, and actually iiijsociating him with the Dutch residente or governor. The resi- (leute exercises the real power, but ostensibly in the name and under the authority of the native prince. The latter receives an ample stipend, which enables him to maintain a show of his hereditary dignity, and in consideration of which he entertains all the Government agents and their visitors at his palace. The Dutch residente directs through the native regent what seed shall be sown on every plantation, how and when the harvest shall be :,ritliered, what wages shall be paid to the cultivators, and disposes of the products at prices fixed in every case, by the Governor- General and Council of the Indies. The results of this system are, that, while the people seem to be comfortable and contented, it defrays all the expenses of local administration in peace and war, and pays an annual revenue of five million dollars into the national treasury at the Hague. Java, thus governed, remains what the discoverers found it, " the garden of the world." Jjundo)!', Jamta/'f/ 2Sd. — Our host at Sjiandjioer gave us at an early hour a cup of the native cofl'ce, with native sugar, and put lis on the way in good time this morning — first, to survey more leisurely than yesterday the little provincial capital ; and then to continue our upward way to the centre of the island. The mouTi- taiu-pidcs which we climbed are more abrupt than those we trav- elled on the previous day, while the teeming population seems, if possible, more simple and gentle. Many sorts of palm and cactus ilisappenr, but the heliotrope is i-icher than ever, the tree-ferns taller and more beautiful. "\Vo had the various experiences of mountain-travel — travel with six horses, with oxen, and with mixed teams of horses and oxen ; sometimes we were pushed upward, iiiii ft. mm '.'^ 324 THE EASTERN" ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. n sometimes held back with human hands alone ; sometimes moved by the working of tlio endless chain. We completed the journey at live o'clock this afternoon. This town is built on the same model as the one last visited. Hardly had we entered it before we encountered demonstrative evidence that the native prince, Wiranarta Kalsoema Radhe Ade- pathe, Regent of Bandong, is every inch a king. His despotic authority is reflected in the desi)ondent countenances and de- meanor of his subje^'ts. Within his dominion we were recognized as his guests. No traveller on the road, whether young or old whether a man staggering under a heavy burden, or a woman with a child in her arms, passed us without first receiving our permission, no matter how slowly we might be moving, or how long we might be stopping. All whom we met went down on their knees as we appi'oached, nor did they venture to leave that posture or even lift their eyes from the ground until we had passed by. This was a strange sight among a people who are more sen- sitive than any other on points of personal dignit;;. Every official or educated Javanese wears a sword, not so much to protect him- self against the beasts of the jungle, as to use it in vindication of wounded self-esteem. He is a duellist. So excitable is the na- tional sense of honor, that no words of insult or opprobrium are ever heard among them without provoking instant chastisciuent. Killing in the duel is not accounted murder. liadhe Adepathe, attended by a half-caste interpreter, stood waiting to receive us before the palace-door, under a gilded um- brella, of form and dimensions not unlike the "sounding-board" of old-fi'.sliioned New-England churches. The interpreter inquired in l''rench whether the guests were Mr. Seward and family. Being answered, he presented each of us to the regent, Avho, with a step of conscious majesty, conducted Mr. Seward and the ladies individ- ually under the gorgeous umbrella, through the portico and into the grand reccption-liall of the palace. Tie seejncd seventy years old, and was careless-ly dressed. His countenance indicated greiif shrewdness, his voice and manner were studiously deferential. Ih' disi)layed, however, a disagreeable impatience and even petulance. 'mm m fi u Vfi- • .*^ ^ f'i^-^t 9^ fl M 1 '^*^^U j,|?^ Mill ■r^^}^)'. -<^a- *^"i^t; i L^/""^^ *—■*«:» •■!>:. .*^;-rti«N^' to K o tfl 2 a ii»»- 1 326 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. m 'IT lie devolved on the interpreter the duty of showing ns our apart- ments. We thought his expressions of politeness sinister, and con- ceived at once a strong dislike for hiin. The overawed interpreter blundered, and conducted each guest to an apartment designefl for the other. The regent, discovering the mistake, rose to the frenzy of a " Blue Beard." He hobbled after us and corrected the blun- der with vehement objurgations. We did not understand a word of the reproof, but we all take notice that the unlucky Malay ^vllo thus combined the offices of interpreter and chamberlain, in tlie " royal " household, has not appeared since. At seven o'clock we were summoned to the great hall, where the regent received us. "What a transformation ! lie was now attired in royal Javanese costume, far more elaborate than that of the Pra- wiro da Kedya. His countenance was serene, his manner gentle, his discourse easy and courteous. He seemed twenty years younger. He banished our dislike at once, by telling us, with a humorous grimace, which none, but those who have actually known what the twinges of the gout are, can affect, that he is a chronic sufferer from that malady. When our host was seated in the centre of the room, three male dwarfs, neatly dressed in native scarlet livery, with tur- baned heads and naked feet, timidly entered an 1 crouched on the floor behind their master. One held a sword ar.d folded umbrella, another, a box filled with smoking-tobacco, pipes, and cigars ; the third, a brazier of charcoal. The three mutely and unceasingly studied the varying expressions of the regent's face. A Malay served first schnapps, then port-wine and madeira. Dwarf num- ber two now offered pipes, cigars, and cigarettes ; thereupon the regent ejaculated " Appee," when the brazier-bearing pigmy sprang quickly forward. In obeying a command, each dwarf, as he ap- proached master or guest, dropped on his knees and bowed his fore- liead to the floor, then assuming a natural position, made the ser- vice required. When it was completed he performed a " salani," and crept backward to his place behind the regent. Not only these dwarfs, but eacli servant in the palace, the regent's own son and heir, a youth of twenty-one, and every- native admitted to the presence, practises the same servile obeisance. The chief, on his THE REGENT'S INCOME. 327 part, does not deign to incline his head toward the servant, child, or subject, to whom he speaks, but, on the contrary, aftectedly looks away from or beyond him. The palace, the grounds, and the town dependent on it, are much more spacious than those at Sjiandjiocr, and abound with evidences of the regent's wealth. His annual stipend is one hun- dred and sixty thousand guilders, about eighty thousand dollars. At tirst it puzzled us to know how a barbarian can use such an in- come, but ue were not long in finding a solution. In part, it is laid out in gems and jewels for personal ostentation, in part for the support of his family, in part for maintaining his corps of " baya- deres " (ballet and singing girls), and a band of musicians, in part in keeping up the most costly stud on the island, and the residue in support of a large number of relations and dependants. The crescent dominates everywhere in Java, and doubtless the mosque draws heavily on the princely revenues. After an elaborate dinner, the day has ended, as at Sjiandjioer, with a native serenade. •ill". 1 r' h Ei^ i »» * A nOBTELRY IN JAVA. CHAPTEE IV. 'I if/?. SEWARD AT BANDONG. Excursion to the Cascade. — A Perilous Road. — The Water-Fall. — An Evening at the Pa'ace. — The Bayaderes. — Two Dwarfs. — A Chorus of Peasants. — The Little Prin- cesses. — An Excursion to Tankoeban. — Peruvian Bark. — The Top of the Volcano, — An Enchanting Scene. — The Javanese Prince. Bandong, January 23c?. — It rained all night. Bad as we knew the roads must be, the regent nevertheless ordered out his iniiiiense European carriage, with six horses, for an excursion to the " Cas- cade," which is one of the wonders of the island. We wore attended by a detachment of heavy dragoons in Dutch unifornis, barefooted postilions, and turbaned footmen. At the foot of every hill, and at e\ery slough, a crowd of peasants appeared, as if summoned bv previous command, to drag or push our unwilling wheels. It was like a royal progress, such as Queen Elizabeth used to make in tlie sixteenth century. Twelve miles from the town, we found twenty-five saddle- horses, a complement of sedan-chairs, and fifty peasants, awaitiiii!: us. Taking so many of these animals, vehicles, and men, as we had need of, we descended successive hills terraced with pale-green rice- fields, and glossy dark coffee-groves. The mounted members (»f the party agree that, in all their experience, they never had so ])er- ilous an exercise ; but the horses, as well as the bearers of the chairs, were well trained and sure of foot. Although an animal occasionally stumbled, and a chair-bearer lost his balance, we never- A WATEPv-FALL. 320 theless accompiislied the journey down the slippery precipices with- out serious accident. The river Grootc forms the canal which we have described at Batavia. That river here bears the euphonious name of Tjoerock Tjikapocndoeng. The torrents by which it is formed meet in the crorges above this place, and it makes a perpendicular leap of sev- enty feet into a dell, the sides of which are studded with lofty tree- turns festooned with orchids. The cascade in form and movement Ims a parallel in some of the many leaps of the West Canada Creek at Trenton, but its forest surroundings can have their like nowhere but within the tropics. After the first pleasing impression of the scene was over, we compared notes together, saying how absurd it must seem that we, who live almost in sound of Niagara, should have come this long distance to see a petty water-fall under the equator. Soon, however, we were made to understand that, for those to whom our cataract of thunder is unknown, this shining cascade is worthy of all admiration. The imagination of the na- tives has peopled the dell with gentle fairies of the air, and loving water-sprites. The Dutch gentleman who accompanied us had never seen any water-falls but the waste-weirs of the canals in Holland. He was aAve-stricken in the presence of Tjoerock Tjika- poendoeng. While to us the combination of sparkling water, dainty ferns, and breathing flowers was simply beautiful, it was for him sublime. So it is that accident or circumstance often determines our tastes and sentiments. Tliis evening the regent conducted us to the private palace in wliich his family reside. Apologizing for his wife's absence by reason of indi'rposition, he placed us in the centre of a spacious and lofty hall, softly lighted with tinted globe lamps, and graced with a curious medley of portraits of European celebrities — among them the Prince of Wales, the Queen of the iS etherlands, Jenny Lind, and Lola Montez. Wc were the only guests. A band of twenty- live native musicians was stationed on the porch. Hundreds of tlie peasantry of Bandong crowded the guard in front. The musi- cians played, in a low tone, a recitative accompaniment. Soon after this began, four " bayaderes," one after the other, glided into the ^ .1, aw* ; ^ 330 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. mem 1 room, with a movement in liarmony with the music. They wore apparently ei<^hteen years of a^e, and had that " golden " complex- ion which in the East is the highest type of beauty. The regent explained that the " bayadere " amusement was derived from the ancient Hindoos. The costimie of the performers has the same origin. It consists of a long, scant scarlet skirt, fastened above the waist, and tailing in folds quite over the bare feet. A stiilened band of scarlet and gold, ten inches wide, is drawn tightly about the waist, fitting just under the shoulder-blades, leaving the arms and shoulders entirely bare. The monture was a burnished helmet. AYondering at this barbaric magnificence, Mr. Seward askeO the DANPIN0-C08TUME. regent whether the helmet was gilded. He quickly answered in Javanese, that not only the helmet, but also the heavy girdle, the bracelets, and anklets, were of solid gold, and added in English, " California." Three ballets were performed ; it was not difficult A JAVANESE TOM THUMB. 331 to understand the spirit of each. Tlic first, gay and joyous, repre- sented a nuptial ceremony ; the second, energetic and vigorous, a battle, with ambuscade, surprise, struggle, and victory ; the third, DANCINO-OIBL. deep-toned and measured, a funeral pageant. The dancing con- sisted of slow and varied posturing and extravagant gesticulation, to the broken and imperfect time of the wild music. The " baya- deres " were not the only performers of the evening. There were two dwarfs, the eldest thirty years old, well proportioned and agile, and a counterpart of Tom Thumb. In the other, the peculiar Malay figure and features were exaggerated to absolute deformity. The regent took especial delight in this lusus naturce^ and laughed immoderately at the little creature's big head and bandy legs. We, who at home are more pained than pleased by the exhibitions of General Tom Thumb and his Liliputian wife, could not sympathize here with the barbarian prince. It was with difficulty that wc sup- pressed our disgust when the pitiable dwarfs were put forward as 1 \ it til yft)- l •1 k i TIIK EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. harlequins in tlio historical pantomimes which the "bayaderes" were executing. Dwarfs here remain the same important personages they were in European courts three hundred years ago. We ouglit to have mentioned that the lladhc Adepathe maintains seven ot them. The performance of the night had a very pleasing intcrhido. While the artistes were resting in the intervals, the guard at the door opened the way to a chorus 'of peasants. They executed a grotesipie dance, which gave unbounded delight, not only to our- selves, but to the unbidden native spectators outside. In the midst of this diversion, two children of the regent, girls of four and five, and very small, came in with their attendants, dressed in (piecnly satin robes and jewels. He presented them to us with niai ii'e.u ])ride, and, although they trembled daring the ceremony, they per- formed their little parts with all the formality of women. We saw the " bayadere " in Japan, and have now seen her in Java. She is, as we understand, a universal character in the East. Before the innovations of Buddha, the Bramins were an exclu- sive religious class in India. They constituted a priesthood, like the family of Aaron among the Jews. Descended from the gods, their persons were sacred. By a cunning artifice, they reconciled their followers to the consecration of women to their service. These women were selected at an early age from the highest fami- lies, reared and educated in the temples in the feminine arts and accomplishments; as well as in mysteries of religion. Such were originally the " bayaderes." If Madame Eoland, in view of the agonies of the state of France, exclaimed, " O Liberty, what crimes are committed in thy name ! " how much more might we exclaim, in view of this wicked imposture, what crime has not superstition perpetrated against the virtue of the human race! While, as we are told, the institution among the Hindoos retains its religious character, it has been copied withoiit that character throughout the East, whatever forms of religion may prevail, A troupe of bayaderes is considered a necessary ornament in the court of every prince, and in all rich families. They are allowed THE VOLCANO OV TANKOEUAN. 333 the education and accompllslinicnts wliicli arc denied the sex gen- erally, without being held to the practice ot virtue. January 2if/i. — An excursion to-day with the same cortege and retinue as yesterday, to the smouldering volcano of Tankoe- hiui. What a transt'onnation in the person of the young prince! Hitherto we had seen him barefooted, and in a mean sarong, kneel- ing and lying at his father's feet like a slave. To-day he has donned a manly and even princely costume. Booted and spurred, he mounted a spirited horse, and led our expedition. Leaving our carriages in a pretty village, at the foot of the mountain, and taking saddle-horses and chairs, we made the ascent ill live hours, by an excavated zigzag path, the construction of ^vl'ieli would have been im})0ssiblc for any engineer other than a Javanese practiced in tlic science of mountain-irrigation. At the liegiuning of the ascent, we were at the elevation whit-h the coflee- troe most affects. The orchards arc very luxuriant ; rising a hun- dred feet higher, we came to a plain covered Avith the Cincliona calisaija, as the tree is called, which furnishes the medicine known world-wide as the Peruvian baric, in its various forms. The culture lirts been introduced here, quite recently, from Bolivia. The trees arc yet young, and we are unable to determine their ultinuite size. The liesident informs us that the enterprise has already proved a success. He has shipped more than seven tons of the bark to Hol- land, taken from only the smaller branches or twigs of the trees. The next plateau gave us a view of the sugar cultivation ; a still liiglicr one yields cabbages, potatoes, and other esculents for the supply of the markets on the sea-shore. Kative timber grows upon the mountain-sides to the very summit, live thousand feet above the sea. The forests arc chiefly of teak ; the undergrowth, tree-ferns, with a great variety of flowering and fruit-bearing vines. We recognize the raspberry, although not belonging to any species cultivated with us. Troops of peasantry went before us and prepared the way by cutting steps on the most rugged declivities. We reached, at last, a plain covered with flre-blasted Irces ; sul- 334 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. "9 'u 4 pliurous fiiines impregiuited the atmosphere, and a clammy moist. lire cliilled us through and through. Following a circuitous ].ath through this desolate scene, we reached the brink of the double cra- ter, four or five miles in circumference and one thousand feet deep. There have been two crui)tions in such close proximity that oiilv a low ridge or promontory separates the craters. At the bottom of cither crater, there is a dark, yellow lake — or, rather, there is one lake extending over the bottoms of both — divided by a natural bridge. On the north shore or beach of this double lake, open chasms send up, from fiery springs, through dense clouds of smoke, a perpetual column of biazing sulphur. Another spring, somewhat higher, seethes like a vast furnace, as it jiours forth column after colunin of mingled mud and gaseous fluid, with rcverberatiii<: sounds like thunder. The banks of solid rock are almost jjcrpeii- dicidar. CJathering clouds, driven by strong winds from the wc'^t- ward, when they reach the precipice, roll in broad volumes down its sides into the abyss ; absorbing, then, the sulphurous fumes, they rise on the oi)pbsite side of the crater, charged with their luin- eral burden, which they distribute, on their return to the upjier air. While contem])latiiig these gigantic eilbrts of Nature, continued through ages, to resume her lost trampiillity and silence, we were shivering with cold and hunger. The plain surnmnding the vul- cano, and indeed the entire surface of the mountain-sunnuit, thouijli covered with such vegetation as the mineral blasts allow to fiourisli, is incrusted with volcanic ashes, like those which buried Pouipeii and other cities on the slopes of Vesuvius. In desccMiding, we ])cered constantly through the forest, to get sight of the ti<;er, which is the terror of tlu. island. Our gtiides, though armed against him, inforuied us that the beast has become wary, and iki longer attacks men in bands. Earth can h.avc no scene more enchanting th;in the dark, tower- ing mountains, shading off into verdant plains, which s|)rea(l bcfdrc our eves as we made our way back to the village we had left in the morning. AVe overtook, as we thought, the very clouds which we ha<l s(>en rolling through the snliihiirous crater, and, drivinir through them, were drenched with rain. Then, again, wlien the DUTCH RULE IN JAVA. 335 pun shone out, avc trod the silvev lining of other clouds, which were i)ouring their floods upon illuniinuted ])hiins below. A dinner, with good wine, and plenty of it, which our young thief had ordered, iiwaited us at the foot of the mountain, and he now ])resided right royally over the welcome entertainment. A second dinner at the })alace closed the day. We have come to like our host vastly. He is genial and joyous in liis intervals of gout, and, by a certain sympathy, has come to uiidcrstand much ctf our English, and to make us comprehend his viriKUidar. America is a subject of inexhaustible interest to him. lie understands it so well, that when Mr. Seward asked him to what country he thought William Freeman, the colored servant, who speaks English, and wears a European costume, belonged, he iviilied, "■ He was born in America, the son of a slave.'' He was entertaining us to-day Avitli accounts of his great ancestry, when nur young Dutch companion asked him what evidence he had of this lineage. He answered, with spirit, "What evidence have we that we all descended from Adam and Eve in the garden of Eden ? " The Dutch seem constantly on the watch for treachery on his part. r.ut suspicion is the punishment of usurpation. It apprehends dis- Kiyalty and treachery on every side. Would it be treason, indeed, in this humiliated and pensioned wearer of twelve diamond-hilted ancestral swords, to strike with them a blow for the lost sceptre of his tribe ? For ourselves, we cannot but think that the Dutch rule in this island, after two hundred years of trial, with their successive wars, is at last safelv e^^tablished. It can onlv be shaken now by tvrannv so extreme and \iolent as to arouse to resistance a simple race who as yet have nevir accpiircd the lirst idea either of personal freedom or uf national inde]>endeuco. CHAPTER V. tM 49 II t AT BATAVIA AdAIN.—TlIE MALAYS. Farewell to nandoiifr. — A Tropical Breakfast. — A Breakfast in the Botanieal Ganlonj.— A Princely Native Artist. — Dutch Colonization. — Character of the .Malay Uace.— Chinese Imnii'Tation. liatavia, January 2~>t/i. — Wo bade farewell to the nianfiiiticciit chief of I'aiuloiig, at sunrl.se yestcnlay, and we breaklluited with him at Sjiaudjioer, enjoviiioj in both cases the honors of music and tlie golden nnd)rella. We bathed and slept last night in the rof^e-pir- dens of Sindanlava. At noon to-day, we reentered the palace of Ihiitenzorg, which name, we now learn, was borrowed IVoni tl 'n' If 1 )alace of Frederick the (Ireat at Potsdam — iSa?is-soiicL A pretty illustration of tropical life greeted us here. The gov- ernor-general was absent ; the ladies were just assembled at Itrcak- fast in the coolest of mai'ble halls, dressed in tlie </i(/(fi/,',' Imliii whirh the Kir'opeans have adopted from the natives here: hair full- ing natuiMlly ovi-r the sliotdders, the white " short-g(»wii " nf c;;!' grandniothri's, made fmciful witli rulHesand bright buttons; a giiv- colnn-d muslin skii't {mroiuj)^ not fastened by a belt, but softly I'mM ed around tlu' tigiire; naked feet thrust int<» gold-endo'didcri'l slippers. AlU'i" .-Inring theif breakfast with us, they loaded I'lii earriages with roses and passion-tlowers, and lotuses, each tlowi r iii itself a boutpu't. it was with sincere ami unali'ected regret that wo parted with oui* newly-made fi'iends, and so we are here i»nci' iimri till' l!(»tanical "1 ;i larger aiw ill iiur e\|ici'ii uT.'ici'thl girall'i :iM(| splendid j A SOCIAL BREAKFAST. 337 iiii-al Ganlon-;.— Malay Uact'.— ;it our Datavi.i lionic, after a wcok in the country, tilled with tlie kiiuletft of hosj)italities and most valuable of instructions. UATll AT HINDA.NLAYA. tons ; a piy- it softly \'"\'\- -('iiil»!""i<li'n"l acli tlowir i!i -n'l-ct 1 1 lilt we W (IllCl' llll'l'l J(niy((/\'/ 'li^fJi. — The KesidtMit of the ])n)vince ol' P.atavia. M'ith t!io ladii'S of his family, ,ii;ave u>, this nioi'iiiiiir, a social hi'cakfast in tlic llotMiiical (iai'(lcns, under arciiiiiu' iKinyan-trees, in the [H'csi'iicc nf II l;n\'cr and i^-aver assianhlv llian excr lictore has liMMccd a feast ill dur ('Xperience. Tliesc s'pectator.s were iiujuisilivc monkeys, ;:i':iccfid ii'lralles, noMi' lions, mau'iiiticent tiu'ers, loijiiacioiis parrots, and splendid peacocks, not to s[»cak of hirds-ot-paradise. In short. 333 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. i-'i: tlic Zoological Museum was the scene of our festivity. When the repast was over, wo visited the museum, which is very rich in Malay antiquities and curiosities, chiefly war and official costumes, ornaments, and weapons, from all parts of the Eastern Archipeluiro. The Hall of the Council of the Indies, in the government pal- ace, is a spacious one, and adorned appropriately with a full collec- tion of life-size portraits of the successive governors-general. Java is proud of the native prince Rahden Saleh, who in Europe acquired great proficiency in the arts of painting and architecture. His most celebrated artistic achievements are, the Botanical Gar- dens, in which we breakfasted ; a fine portrait of the governor-gen- eral (Myer) ; and his own Italian villa, in the suburbs of Batavia. Mr. Pell gathered at his table, in the evening, a pleasant partv of Americans. This island is visited more by Americans than bv any other class of travellers. Batavia- Idoads, Steamer Singapore^ January 'itOth, Eveninfj,— To avoid an early and precipitate embarkation to-morrow, we pro- cured a steaui-tender, and came on board a packet still smaller than the Koningin der Nederlanden. What we have seen in Java, and learned there of oiner island*, justifies us in pronouncing the Dutch colonization in the Ea>t Indies a great and beneficent success. Less than twenty thou- sand Dutch colonists have established over a native population of seventeen millions the sway of the mother-country, which luiiu- bers only four millions. Notwithstanding occasional insurrections, that sway may be regarded as firmly estal)lished. It ouj^.it to enhance our admiration of tho enterprise, that, during two hun- dred years of its history, the Netherlands had to overcome not alone the natives of the islands, l)ut also to maintain an almost constant confiict with European com])etitors in these distant seas — Portugal, Spain, France, and (ireat Britain. Its administra- tion is severely criticised in British circles, on the ground of it> wearing too prominently the features of narrow mercantile monop- oly. Although these features must be admitted to be tyrannical, it cannot be denied, on the other hand, that the Dutch Government has practised Archipelago the United Si exterminated slavery on t The Dutch d( The island h.n and has also as wo can pc content, and overlooked tl cise of politic religions, enc( so generally t his own lano admitted that sonal liberty the ^[alavs : i civilization of dencc, /e mu ress of civilizf The Mala branches. 1 covcrei's on t Java, were C( emerged fron int 'llectuaHy ercrs alleged oxcclled all gruous does t an instinct ra the same Eii treacherous, w tractable peo liramins of 1 vast proportio 11 THE MALAY RACE. 339 lias practised far less severity and cruelty toward the natives of the Arc'liil>elag;o than Spain, and Great Britain, and their successors the United States, have practised in America. IloUand has neither exterminated native populati(jns in the Archipelag'O, nor imposed [ilavery on them, nor introduced African slavery among them, riic Dutch development of tlie resources of Java has heen effective. The island has an agriculture surpassing that of any other country, and has also a valuable and increasing foreign commerce. So tiir as we can perceive, it is free alike from political and social dis- content, and certainly it is free from pauperism. Xor is it to l)e overlooked that the Malays have been raised to the partial exer- cise of political functions. The government, while it toKjrates all religions, encourages missionary instruction, and maintains schools so generally that a Javanese who is unable to read and Avritc in his own language is exceptional. At the same time it must be admitted that no such vivitying social sentiments as those of per- sonal liberty and national independence have been conceived by the Malays ; and, while we can no longer doubt that the ultimate civilizafion of the whole human race is within the design of Provi- dence, 'c must reconcile ourselves to laws which render the prog- ress of civilization slow, and seemingly uncertain. The Malay race is not homogeneous ; it has many distinct branches. The branches which were found by the European dis- coverers on the peninsula, and on the islands of Sunuitra and Java, were compact and organized states, which had long before emerged from the tribal condition. Nevertheless, the Malays are int Uectualiy as well as physically feeble. The European discov- erers alleged that they could not count ten. But in one art they .'xeelled all mankind — this was the art of irrigation. So incon- grnons does this skill seem to be, that we might almost deem it an instinct rather than an ac(piirement of the Malays. Although the same Eiu'opean cxjilorers describe the J^falays as subtle and treacherous, we are obliijed to conclude that thev are a docile and tractaljle ])eople. Tlsty received their earliest religion frotn tlu! hraniius of India, as is proved by the ruins of Hindoo temples of vast proportions and great magniticence. They exchanged that re- 540 TITE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. tl ■ H •».■ ' t *. '- « 23 I I ■Jit « Hf^ion, with entire docility, for the faith of the crescent, which was brought to them from Arabia by the apostles of Mohammed. There was one occasion, indeed, in their history when they proved intrac- table and hostile. At the time of the arrival of the Europeans, not only the Malayan Peninsula, but Sumatra, Java, and Borneo, were found the field of active Chinese colonization. The European his- torians represent that the natives sought to exterminate the Chinese immigrants here, on exactly the same grounds that Chinese inimi- gration is opposed in the United States, namely, u fear that it would establish a system of heathen barbarism. In this native re- sistance to Chinese colonization, the European adventurers con- curred and co(>perated for a long time. But it has, at last, happih- ceased. The Dutch East India Cxovernment, as well as the Jh-itish Government at Singapore, are now effectively engaged in promot- ing that immigration in their respective colonies. JAVANG8B. CHAPTER VI. FROM BATAVIA TO MADRAS. An Uncomfortable Steamer. — An Accident. — At Singapore. — British Ilospitality. — Tlie I'oit of Penang. — A Loyal Englit^hman. — Bay of Bengal. — Ilalf-Wny Bound the World. — Arrival ut Ceylon. — Point do Gallc. — A Short Visit to the Shore. — A Hindoo Crew. — OfT Ponuicherry. Sfeame.' Slnffajwre, Jamtary ^\st. — If one wishes to learn liow skilfully common-carriers, demanding tlie liiglicst rates for freight and passage, can inflict the greatest discomfort, we recommend to him a lesson on the Singapore. She was appointed to leave I>atavia oil the 2r)th, while the British steamer to Ceylon was to leave Sin- gapore on February 1st. But the Singapore, which is the slowest vessel of the line, did not sail until the 27th. Notwithstanding this change of time, we hoped for two days of rest at Singapore. The cabin is a dove-cote — the holes are reached from the deck by a perpendicular ladder. AVe had the whole dove-cote to ourselves the night we lay in the roads at Batavia. The next night, and all other nights, we escaped from its stifling imprisonment by having our mattresses spread on the deck and protected by awnings. Our new lodging was made intolerably noisy by the incessant tramp of passengers, ofliccrs, seamen, ami servants. A dozen milch-cows were hauled by their horns on dock, before we left pert. Fifty miles at sea, one of them mutinied, and leaped overboard ; the ship gave her stern-chase, bow-chase, and cross-chase, for five hours ; 88 342 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. 1 -; • J' * " 11 « it Wcis an unequal chase, but steam-power, baffled so long, prevailed at last. During the night, when we were crossing the mouth of tlio straits of Sunda, a northwest monsoon put the steamer to anctlar trial. The condenser gave way at midnight, and the vessel he- came a log. AVe, who were wakeful and alarmed, saw the officers hurrving backward and forward, whispering ratlier than proclaim. ing their commands. We overiieard them discoursing how to make up th ' shi))'-^ detijieney in life-boats in case she should be driven on th :^p ich.. It was a new experience to go down, in that tein- pestuo- ilg. 1 into the seething ship's hold, and take our iiionev from oui Irnnkt. .. 'd prepare for the apprehended disaster. AVluu might not be our fate, if, escaping from the perils of the sea, we should reacli the savage shore of Sumatra i Should we encounter there serpents, wild-beasts, cannibals? The storm, however, re- lented a little; after working the pumps, and hammering on the condenser, the engineer repaired the broken machinery, and the vessel resumed her course. AVe were demoralized by travel in this intemperate climate, The coarse food was not at all to our liking; we fell back on the fruits. The first day, lemons, limes, even bottled lemonade, were exhausted; the next day, the oranges, bananas, and ])ineaiij)lcs; the third day, and afterward, we had stale bread and bad coU'ec. We have arrived here at midnight, on the fifth day of our vovaire, No signal has been given of the steamer, and we therefore sleep on board, although we are to embark on the Behar for Ceylon, to- morrow. Steamer Behar, Straits of Malacca, February 1st. — The nnin- structed telegraph, at dawn, signalled the Singapore as a Dutdi man-of-war. N*jbody expected Mr. Seward in a belligerent char- acter, especially under a Dutch flag. Governor Ord and Consul Jewell, however, discov(M*ed the mistake, and took us ashore after long delay. The true English hospitality of Sir George and Ladv Ord, at Government House, soon banished the remembrance of the perils and privations of our recent voyage. THE STRAITS OF SUNDA. 343 Strerif^fli commands respect, and success, at last, overpowers envy. The same European populace of Singapore, which, only a very few years ago, cheered the American rebel Semmes, when he wont out and came in there from his traitorous depredations on unprotected national commerce, now followed our little American party to the wharf, and, as the Behar cast oif her lines at four o'clock, they shouted, with evident good-will : " Three cheers for Govenior Seward, three cheers for the ladies ! " " Well," said Mr. Sewiird, "let it be so ; it is not an unwholesome instruction that the nation which would enjoy the respect of other nations must retain its claim to it by union and courage," f.— The unin- |c as a Dutch ligerent char- 1 and Consul is ashore after )V'^e and Lady nbrance of the Pcnang, Fehruary itd. — As the straits of Sunda arc hr? cus- tomary channel of vessels which round Cape Horn for Jav.i, ( ina, and Japan, so the straits of Malacca are the proper passii^^c foi' ves- sels of like destination, which come by the way of the Cape of Good Hope. The British Government has, with its usual sagacity, secured the ancient town of Malacca on the Malay Pe. nsula. The straits are four hundred miles long. We have made the passage hither in forty-two hours, seeing often the high hills of Sumatra on our left, and the flat Malay Peninsula always in view on our right. The straits here are seven miles wide, and deep enough for vessels of the liirgest size. The mountainous, wooded island of Penang rises abruptly out of the sea, and lesser islands lend a picturesque aspect to the harbor. The port of Penang, sometimes called Georgetown, with a pop- ulation of four thousand, may, some time ago, have flourished, but it is now in a condition of neglect and decline. The population of theisliuid of Penang is fort}'^ thousand. Governor Ord, like every one else in this region, represents the Malays as improvident and idle. He bases his hope of the prosperity of the settlement upon Chinese immigration. Among the twenty or thirty boats, which came oft* here for passengers and freight, only one was Malay ; all the others were Chinese built, and manned by Chinese. We have improved, as best we could, the six hours' stay with which the Behar has indulged us here. In carriages, with Hindoo U4: THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. ■ m 'It drivers, wc made great speed, over a Bniootli road, to sec a cascade on the AVcst Mountain, two thousand feet above the sea. The people whom we passed, on the roadside, were often standinn^ or reclining in careless and picturesque attitudes, under the coccia-mit and arika palms. They seem effeminate and languid. Manitestlv, however, they bestow careful attention on their costumes, grace- fully made up of pure white or bright-colored turbans, Howiiii; sashes, and gay sarongs. There is an approximation to similarity in the dwellings of the Malays and Chinese here, while the foreign bungalows exliibit ;; sad corruption of European architecture, without gain from the Oriental. On all sides, and at every turn, there are swiiigin<r sign-boards, which announce "Licensed to sell ardent spirits." If alcohol is not admitted to be a civilizer, it cannot be denied that it is a leveller. After making a considerable descent, we reached a brawliiiir torrent. We followed its bank under the shade of native forests. A small plain near the foot of the cascade furnishes the site fur a litt.'e, rude, adobe Hindoo temple; it has a rustic veranda, sup- ported by palm-.saplings. Here wc were welcomed by Ilrainin<. who were assiduously engaged in plaiting bamboo curtains, and weaving garlands of mountain-flowers, for a festival tomorrow, We rested awhile under this simple but beautiful upholstery, and then foraged the adjoining woods for nutmegs and cloves. As- cending from this plain two or three hundred feet, over roii;^Ii stone steps, we came to the basin into which the torrent plunge^ for a hundred feet or more, breaking into sparkling jets as it dashes against glistening granite rocks. Even we, prosaic as we are, could easily fancy that the caverns in the.se romantic rocks arc inhabited by naiads and genii, such as arc supposed to Imldcoin- munc with the imaginative disciples of the oldest and most myste- rious of the religions of the East. Sitting on benches hewn from the rock, and refreshing ourselves with cool water drawn from the basin, wc looked olf upon the ocean, a dozen miles distant, calm and quiet, through a vista of tree- ferns, rooted high above the tops of the palms and spice-trccs whieli Fch)'ua)'i liave not ha strong. AV- be broken at IIALF-WAY ROUND THE WORLD. 345 (jrow on the plain bt'low. Descending to the plain where we bud left our ciirriagcs, we were served, at a rustic inn, with a lunch of hioileil chickens and salad, and with wine from Xeres, which need- ed no "bush." The proprietor, a loyal Euglishnian, did not think it siiporiluous to tell us timt the foinitain in which we had bathed, tlie table on which wc dined, and the cask from which the wino was drawn, had all been honored with the patronage of his lioyal Iligliriess the Duke of Edinburgh, llow long will "her Majesty's coininand," and "his Royal llighuess's protection," serve to adver- tise merchandise and inns in the East Indies? On coming on board, wc learned with regret that our hurried shore ramble had deprived us of a visit from the United States con- sul. Steamer Behar, Bay of Bengal, Fchruary Mh, — Penang city and roadstead passed from our sight with the setting sun. We liiivc given the Southern Islands a wide berth. Xow at noon, while the captain is taking his daily observations, Mr. Seward, pencil in hand, is making up his reckoning. "Cap- tain, I think we must be near the 98th meridian of east longitude, which will be half my voyage around the world." The captain answered, " That light-ship, sir, which you see on our right, marks the line you are incpiiring Ibr." Little do our friends at home, in their midnight slumber, dream that we are sitting, wide awake, directly over their heads. But we liave a faint idea that this reflection has been made under similar uircumstances before. The calm sea-surface is broken by a vast shoal of fish, violently throwing themselves into the air. "What has caused this great comniotion ? " It is those two black-headed sharks peering over the water— vanguard, doubtless, of a ferocious army. Fehruat'ii 1th. — The Indian Ocean justifies its renown. We have not had a wave too high, a cloud too dark, or a breeze too strong, AVe are actually regretting that this dreamy voyage must be broken at Ceylon to-morrow. A mattress on the deck of a Pen- 846 THE EASTERN ARCIIirELAGO, ETC. * s « * t « % 9' I lit I insular and Oriental steamer, on this ocean in February, is a luxury of rest. The glarinfj, blaziu;:]^ sun has scarcely set, before the nioon and stars come out in full brilliancy. The sparkling Souil^cm Cross traverses a short journey across the southern horizon, vi^ihlv changing its position every hour, and the tranquil night, witlioiit twilight, breaks suddenly into another cloudless and joyous day. Of Point de Galle^ February Sth. — A letter from Lord Ntipier comes on board, protesting against our lingering at Ceylon, so as to fall into India in the hot season. We are obliged to be content, therefore, with an outside view of that famous island. We have been running nearly all day along its beautiful coast. A yellow beach, with dazzling breakers, fringes the forest verdure of the island. That verdure extends to a height of five thousand t'cet. when it gives place to a blue rocky ridge, from which rises Adam's Peak, nine thousand feet, and Haycock Hill, fourteen thousand. The fishing-craft here is as ingenious as its construction is peculiar. Being a canoe, scooped out of the trunk of a tree, it is too narrow for safety. It is, therefore, provided with a float attached to out- riggers at the right side. Fleets of these boats are moving arouml us, but, whatever pearls the fishermen may have taken from these rich waters, are too minute for our vision. So, also, if elej^liants are as numerous on the shores as they are represented to be, it must be remembered that an impenetrable jungle intervenes to conceal them from our sight. Steamship Columbia^ 10 p.m., February Sth. — While we were writing our latest notes, a summons came for our transshipment from the Behar to this steamer. Point do Galle, or, as it is otherwise called, Gallc, altli()u<,'li described in some of the geographies as having a good harbor, has just no harbor at all. It has neither bay nor roadstead, but a i)iti- ful cove, into which the sea forces its way between two short ledges of rock projecting from the shore. These ledges, which arc scarcelv a quarter of a mile apart, seem to break the surf, and thus in fair weather afford something like a tranquil anchorage. This anchor- A FEW MINUTES IN CEYLON. 347 aire, however, can aocommodato only five or six sca-pjoin*]^ vessels, and every one of this number is ex[)ose(l to <xroat danger It' it loses control of its ground-tackle, from hidden coral-rocks. Our fi'Uow- msscnger. Colonel Garden, of the British Army of India, tells us that one of these rocks wrecked and broke into pieces the steamer in wliich he was enterin<^ the harbor two years ago. This afternoon three steamers met here — the liohar bound for Sncz, the Columbia for Madras, and a third for the Archipelago. With these came also a Portuguese man-of-war. The liehar, just betorc wo left here, collided with a large iron ship, inflicting the loss (»f a boom, and sufl'ering the loss of a life-boat and stanchions. We asked whether this is the best of the island ports, and were answered that Colund)o, the only one available to the present trade, iswiirse. Nevertheless, the cove is beautiful to look upon. The shore is ten or twelve feet above the sea, and shaded with palms. Here and there a fanciful bungalow may be seen peeping from holiind the dense groves. On a gentle elevation h a pretty Chris- tian church and spire, confronting a mosque and riinarcts not less conspicuous. At the water's edge is a line of white fortifications and barracks, with a lofty gateway leading to the town, built by the Portuguese. These buildings, substantial and old, are shel- tered by immense trees, of what sort we are unable to learn. Teti o'clock'. — Until the moment of writing the last notes, we liad entertained no hope of treading the soil of fragrant Ceylon. The captain of the Columbia tendered us his service to go ashore in ills launch. We made our way, not without great difficulty, through the crowded shipping to the stone steps under the mediae- val gateway. Ten minutes sufficed us to walk through the princi- pal street. We rested under the veranda of a comlbrtable, mod- ern hotel, 111 king a hundred inquiries concerning the island and its wonders, continually interrupted by tempting offers of carved ebony elephants. coU'ec-wood sticks, cinnamon paper-cutters, Cin- pdese lace, not to speak of diamonds, pearls, rubies, and sapphires. Having so soon " done " the town and island, we rowed among the shipping, dodging a rudder here, a propeller there, and native raft- 348 THE EASTERN AEOIIIPELAGO, ETC. boats on every side, until a flash from the ship's f^nn summoned all on board. The most inspiring incident of this day's cxperiunce was the last. The moon had not risen, and the night was dark and cloudy when our propeller was put in motion. A blue li^^iij; on the Coluni', la's bow signalled that her movement was to be^in. Instantly a brilliant torch, fed by impish natives, blazed on oai'li one o*' the hundred, beacous which rose on the sharp ledges of the cliji.nnel, and bOon we were moving through a maze of bonfires to the ODcn sea. At this moment, a full moon, breaking through the clouds, poured her silver light over land and sea, adding a new and inconceivable brilliancy to the scene. f ». .« * » v : * • t L\i>/ of Bengal^ Fehniavy dth. — The route to Madras requires that we retrace to the end of the island the course by which \vc reached Point do Gallo. AVe are now steering northward, aioi)!,' the eastern coast of Ceylon. The island constitutes a distinct British province, and its gov- ernment is under the direct supervision of the Secretary of iState for India. Its people, all Cingalese, arc doubtless of IliiidDD extraction. The prevailing religion, that of Buddha, we are in- clined to thirdc, flourishes more vigorously there than on the ('oii. tinent. British and American missionaries labor harmoniously together, and report that they have one pupil in their school.-, for every ninety of the native pojudation. Wo have at last left the ('hinese, as well as the American and European seamen, behind us. All our crew are Hindoos. Except ourselves, all the passengers are British. They are all civil or mili- tary officers of the (lovernmcnt. Within the memories of nuuiy <tt' them, journeys in India were made with clephant-traina. .Vltor this came the Peninsular and Oriental steamers, and now railways. Busine.ss-men go directly by rail from Bond)ay to ('alcutta, while tamilies prefer the slower anil easier journey by sea around rlie peninsula, touching at (Ceylon. The; steamers also transport the troops and stores for the Indian army. Wo already feel that the continental empire is the one absorb- ing British interest, to which Ceylon and the Straits Settlement iin- PONDICIIERRY. 349 subordinate. "What we hear discussed are the political and social questions of the caj)ital, Calcutta, Our fellow-passengers condole with us that our arrival will be too late for the court season. Of Pondichervij. — It will be reuienibered that we found the French in Cochin C'hina fortifying Saigon against ( J ernian invasion. We heard yesterday at Point de Cialie that one of the conditions of peace made by King William is the surrender of Pondicherry, the only other remaining relic of French conquest in the East. Mr. Seward docs not believe the report. While he thinks that France may withdraw before long from the East, he thinks it quite too late tor even united Germany to come here as a civilizer. It would involve nothing else than an attempt at universal empire, that dream which began with Alexander, and which lies buried in the tomb at the Hotel des Jnvalides. Pondicherry, without a harbor, is a dismantled city of forty thousand people, lying within the limits of the province of South Areot, and is distant only eighty- seven miles from l^Iadras. The r)ritish have heretofore seized it four times, in as many successive wars with France, and, although thoy have as often restored if, it lies nevertheless com[)leteIy at their mercy. I* ^y t • PART IV. BRITISH INDIA. %\ i ! £ s Ok Miiilras from tl School. —I Macliincry —The Lfg Madras aniimd the k'ftSau Fr (leiiu)iistrat \)S a Hank i Wo firs hliie iiazc. jican aspcH coast. It Vc'ddo, liin I lie city, appcaranff iiig from I ! {'aptaii t(. the (■(' Napier, G' European, tinn'orthy • largo as I'" CHAPTER I. MADRAS. Madras from the Sea. — Governor Napier. — Tlie Government IIousc. — A Hindoo Girls' Scliool. — IJisliop Ilebcr. — Briii;li Dominion in Indiii. — Ueiir-Atiniiiai Cocliburn. — Maoliinery of (iovcrnmcnt. — A Meetinj; of tiie Executive Coimcil. — Lord Cornwallis. — Tlie Legislative Council. — Hindoo Music. Madrani Ffhruanj Wth. — Tliis voy;ii2;e of ours, westwcird Mroiind the world, subjects us to singular iinprossious. Since "\ve left Snn Franciwco, we have seen at every stage a more imposing (K'nioiistration of European power. Thus, we are reaching Europe by a flank movement. We first saw Madras from the hoa, at a long distance, through a liliie haze. It seemed commanding and beautiful, a city of Euro- jican aspect, stretching eight or ten miles along the Coromandel coast. It contains five hundred thousand people. Here, as at Vc'ildo, large gardens intervene between the dillercnt districts of the city. On coming near, its lofty buildings pres< it a dingy appearance, an indication, we think, of commercial decline, result- ing from the oj)ening of the railway from Bombay to Caleuttn. Captain Xai»ier took u^ off the steamer, and brought ns directly to the i'k)vernment IIousc, the official residence .>f Francis, Lord .X.ipi r, Cxovernor of the Presidency of Madras. It is a palace half European, half Oriental, with its proportions and apVHiinfments not iinnvtrthy of a magistrate who presides <>ver a country which is as Inrgc as FratK'c, and contains almost as uumy million inhabitants. ,i ^ 354 BRITISH INDIA. «• I R < a. • * During Lord Napier's residence, as minister of Groat Britain In the United States, a close friendship <:^rcw up between him and Mr. Seward, and between their families. That friendship has continued, through political and domestic vicissitudes. AVe therefore expected here, as M'e desired, not so much a distinguished recejition, as a sii;. cere welcome, with much-needed rest. Those wc are having, hut not without such official demonstrations as we have met elsowhcro. The appointments of Govern men t House arc magnificent. AVe notice a major-general's staff, with a guard of horse and foot, blazing in scarlet and gold ; civil secretaries, we know not how many ; servants counted by the score, at the head of whom are seven native butlers, and at the foot a hundred loallahs (coolies), who do nothing but keep the jJ?^;«^'rt/<.9 (swinging fans) in nidtiun, in every part of the house, by day and by night. In the stahlos, two hundred horses; and here we may say, that they have six races of the animal in India: the "Waler" from Australia, the "Cape" from Good Hope, the " Aral)ian," the " Persian," and the country- bred horse, a cross between the "Arabian" and "Waler," and a small horse from LJurm.ih, which we like better than any pony wc Ah iuivo seen ni Asia. Madras, Fehruanj Wth. — "We accompanied Lady Napier to- day, at three o'clock, to an examination of a Hindoo girls'-school. Prizes were distributed to one hundred pupils, all under twelve years. Tliis is the age of marriage in India. Jealous and ambi- tiour; parents anticipate it, by nuirrying their daughters to their appointed husbands at every stage of intancy and childhood. We were surprised, although wc ought not to have been so, in seeing the children in this schoc^l (piito black. They have, however, i-itraigikt Uair and legular features. They arc slender in form and dimiuuti\"c in stature, with extremely delicate hands and feet. They have a sad, pensive manner, entirely free from the content- ment and abandon which are noticeable among the colored children of the United States. Thousrh of manv dilierent castes, all were dresseci in either bright-colored muslins or gauzes interwoven with gold. Their fine black hair, their cars, their noses, their necks, t Iji'itiiiii in lim and Mr, 8 contimieil, )rc expected on, .as a sin- having, but t elsewhere, ficcnt. ^\Q and foot, »w not how f whom arc ihs (coolies), ) in motion, the stables, ive six races the "Cape" the couiitry- aler,'' and a ny pony \vc Napior to- >i;ii'ls'-scliool. nder twelve s and anibi- crs to their Ihood. We >o, in seeing e, however, in form and Is and feet, the content- red chihlrcn tes, all were 'woven with then* necks, (f) u tL. 356 BRITISH INDIA. t » t. m- their arms, their wrists, their ankles, and their toes, were loaded with ornaments of silver, gold, pearls, and precious stones. A val- uation made at our request, of a set of ornaments worn by a clijld of six years, gave the ligure of three hundred pounds steriini,'! The prettiest costume of all was worn by a daughter of the ( on- verted Hindoo matron of the institution — a green satin vest, low at the neck, small short sleeves trimmed with gold lace ; white skirt over which was wound a long, full, rose-colored scarf; the necklace, car-rings, and nose-rings, of gold coins. From the osten- tatious display of jewels, we inferred that the children had rjcli ])arents. But we soon learned that these ornaments constitute the entire fortune and estate of the wearer. Banks, stocks, and other institutions for the investment of cai)ital, are little known or under- stood by the Hindoos. The children answered, some in the Tamil dialect, others k the Tclugu, others in the Ilindostanee, Bible questions of historv and geography about as well as our own Sunday-school chihhcii oi the same age. They were also examined in the most simple pro- cesses of arithmetic. A Tamil lyric was prettily sung by one ('Ias>, Its plaintive strain recalled our negro melodies. The native air. to which Tamil verses in honor of Lady Napier were sung by tlic whole school, unmistakablv breathed the refrain of " Dearest Mae." A Telugu lyric was less musical. Five thousand children arc cdu cated in schools of this sort in Madras. Very few, however, be- come Christians. Hindoo names always are significant. "We record the names of three pupils who received the iirst prizes: Ammaui, Matron; Amurdum, Nectar; Sivaratura, Gem of Life. The best prize- were French dolls, and were received with subdued but inuacnsc delight. A drive on the surf-beaten shore, where foreigners " most de congregate," closed our first day at Madras. Ifadms, February Vlth. — We attended morning service at the cathedral, a spacious thcugli unostentatious edifice. Itwa.'^ dilficult at first to compose ourselves under the constant vibration of the BISHOP IIEIJER. 357 pmikalis, wliic'h swing witliont ceasing over the licads of the large cnii^'regation. The beautiful hymn which was sung recalled the ineinory of Ileber, ai.d a tine marble statue in the chancel gave us the classic lineaments of the great Bishop of Calcutta. He it was who was "zealous for his Church, and not forgetful of his station, but remembering it more for the duties than for the honors that were attached to it, and infinitely more zealous for the religious im- provement, and for the hapi)iness and spiritual and worldly good of his fellow-creatures of every tongue, faith, and complexion." ners "most 'h February 14M. — How strange it seems that this dominion of India, with its two hundred milli(jns of people, should be a de- pendency on the two small islands of distant Great Britain, which contain only thirty millions! And yet there is a reason for it. Weak and ignorant tribes and nations are generally found depend- ent on stronger and more enlightened ones, if not absorbed by them. Tlic dominions of Portugal, which never numbered more than four millions, were once nearly as extensive as those of Eng- land. AVe have already seen the ri'h Eastern dominion of the Httlo kingdom of the Netherlands, whose area is about that of Vermont or Maryland. Indeed, it seems as if dei)endence is, at some time, the normal condition of every natiiMi. All prosperous nations must expand. That expansion will be made on adjacent reirions if practicable ; if not practicable, it will then be made in those regions, however distant, which offer the least resistance. There is, however, a thought, connected with this subject, which is worth dwelling upon. Why have Portugal, S])ain, and France, tiiilcd to retain the foreign dominions they founded, while the United States, Great Britain, and the Netherlands, continually ;ui[iiire new territories, instead of losing those already secured? The reasons must be found in a difference in the characters and L'enius of the nations. Portugal colonized only with merchants and priests, and sought to monopolize the products of her colo- nics. S])ain colonized only with soldiers and jiriests, and ])rac- tisod restriction, monopcdy, and extortion ; while Great Ih'itair., Holland, and the United States, send out, for colonists, agricul- 24 ^ 358 BRITISH INDIA. turists, mechanics, miners, and laborers ; and, when they cannot do this, they int'*oduce cultivation, mining, and the mechanical arts, among the conquered people. France concpiers, not tor tie development and improvement of the country subdued, or t., increase her own wealth and power, but chietly for the glory of the concpiest. To compare great things with small, France con- quers, as the sportsman kills, only to show his skill as a marks- man. February \Wi. — Hear- Admiral Cockburn, her Britannic Majrv ty's naval commander on the East India station, arrived lierc in his flag-ship, the Forte, on the 14th instant. The oftitial and fashionable circles (by-the-way, both are very much one) all sliower hospitalities upon him and his othcors. They were eiitcrtaineil yesterday at dinner at (lovernment House, and particii>ate(l in t'lie ball which was given to our party. The ball was in the p-cat banqucting-hall, which is over the j>orte-coc}u:re of the palace. lb roof is supported by a double row of lofty Corinthian cuhniin^, Instead of walls, the sides of this tropical ballroom are of niovnUe lattice-work, admitting the sea-breeze on either side. Thon<,'h \\v have chronicled many ball?*, this one was too splendid to he omit- ted. Like ]Mr. Seward's, however, the admiral's thoughts are not much diverted by the amusements of society. He is sixty years of age, a loyal and veteran British sailor, a good observer, and a zeal- ous philanthropist. The chief object, at present, of the naval polire which he maintains over these waters, is to supj)re8S the petty trade in slaves which is still carried on between the eastern coast of Africa and the shores of the Indian Ocean, the Arabian Sea, and the Persian Gulf. Although the two gentlemen were entirely un- known to each other, Mr. Seward had the pleasant experience of finding the admiral an intelligent admirer of our country, and a 8ym])athizer in ]\Ir, Seward's political principles and sentiments. The admiral has tendered us a cruise in the Forte from J?ombflv to Muscat, with an excursion thence to the sites of Nineveh and Babylon. This voyage, if it be practicable, will be the complement of our Eastern travels. But it will require an early departure INDIAN (30VP:RNMKNT. 859 from Bombay, to avoid intolerable heat on the Euphrates as well as l;iii irerous monsoons in the Persian Guli'. Fi'hruary \(Sth. — The British conquests in India are so recent, tli;u the civil government can hardly yet be said to be consolidated, ^^'itliin the vast territories there are three great presidencies — Ben- ifivl, with (yalcnlta its capital ; Madras, its capital the city of Ma- dras; and Bouibay, its capital Bombay. The northern and eastern portions of the territory are divided into other provinces — the X tlnvest, the Central, and the Punjanb. A viceroy, appointed bv the crown for four years, resides at Calcutta, and administers a form of federal goveriiment, while each presidency and province lias its own local administration. There is associated with the vice- roy an Executive C'^'V.ncil, whose members may be regarded as sec- retaries or ministers charged with portfolios of foreign affairs, tinauce, war, judiciary, po>t -office, improvements, and education. This Executive Council, like a cabinet council elsewhere, attends the viceroy semi-weekly or daily, as he requires. Its members arc residents in India, and they are appointed by the viceroy, with the consent of the crown. AVith the consent of this Executive Council, the viceroy appoints all magisterial and ministerial officers. There is also a Legislative Council, which consists of the same executive councillors, with the addition of a few residents of India, selected bv the viceroy with the approval of the crown, to represent com- mercial and popular interests. This Legislative Council has also a member of the British bar, appointed by the Home Government, to be a le<?al adviser. In each of the councils the vicerov i)rcsides. He can veto, but not without rendering his reasons immediately to the crown. This Legislative Council, subject to approval from the Home (lovernment, makes general laws and levies taxes. .V major- ity in each council are British, but four, five, or six ])rominent na- tives of India, distinguished for rank, property, or merit, are added to each. The Executive Council sits with closed doors ; the Legis- lative Council dei)ates in public. Its proceedings are reported as fully as those of the British Parliament, or of our own Congress. The governments of the several presidencies and provinces are con- >: IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) h /, i/ /A^ i \ A y. ^ 1.0 I.I t^ IIIM t 1^ 12.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1 1.6 ^ ^ 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 873-4503 o ^ \\ 360 BRITISH INDIA. • If if structed entirely on the same model with that of the federal or im- perial government just described. Thus it will be seen that tlie government of British India differs from that of the United States chiefly in its denial of the elective principle. All its appointments are derived directly or indirectly from the crown. The greatest social difficulty of the Government consists in con- tending against the ancient laws and customs of caste. A toueliini; incident, which may be regarded as showing the protest of hiimiui nature against the laws of caste, has just occurred : A young native woman was indicted for the murder of her child, whose father Avas of £ lower caste than her own, and with which intermarriage was forbidden. She confessed that she strangled the infant rather tlian lose her caste. The jury, half native, half foreign, pronounced lier not guilty, notwithstanding her confession. But the government of India, as we have described it, is not established in all parts of the conquered territory. Tlicre are many districts, some very large ones, which still remain under the government, more or less absolute and exclusive, of native heredi- tary princes, not unlike the Indian " nations " in the United States. All these provinces acknowledge the supremacy of the British Gov- ernment, and admit of its intervention in the local administration by way of advice or protest. Some of them, more independent than others, retain the simple relation of allies, offensive and de- fensive, with the Governn^eiit at Calcutta. Other native princes submit to have their revenues collected by the Calcutta Govern- ment, and even applied by it for the welfare and improvement of the districts. Some admit judicial interference, others exclude it. Some maintain armies, others have surrendered that power. All India, doubtless, is in a transition state. Of such native districts or provinces, there are encircled within the limits of the Presidency of Madras, Travancore at the north end of the peninsula, Cape Comoiin, !^T_),■io^c in the centre of the peninsula, and Hyderabad in the northern part of the peninsula. The Prince of Mysore is divested of all authority, and, while allowed his titular rank, is a pensioned vassal, living under surveillatice. The other two princes are allies offensive and defensive of the British crown, and are STATUE OF LORD CORNWALLIS. 301 practically independent. Mr. Seward is attentively studying the working of this complex governmental machinery. He confesses that he thinks it would hardly go on smoothly in the United States. If a person, native or foreign, desires an audience of the gov- ernor, whether on business or not, he registers his name in the visitors' book in the adjutant's office. After two weeks, more or less, the governor gives notice that he will hold a public breakfast at the palace, at which those who have registered their names will be received. At this entertainment each person submits his appli- cation in turn. Mr. Lincoln used to receive promptly all who came to the White House before four o'clock in the afternoon. Mr. Seward has known many people sleep in the hall of the White House all night to receive an early audience in the morning. On the 14:tli, Mr. Seward drove with the governor to Fort St. George, where his lordsbip was to hold an Executive Council. Even this simple affair vvr.s made the occasion of a pageant greater than is ever seen at AVashington except at inau- guration. The governor was escorted by fifty sepoys, huge white umbrellas were held over him and over the heads of the ministers as they respectively arrived at the gate of the fortress. A corps of retainers attended each up the staircase and to the door of the eoimcil-cbamber. The opening of the session was announced by the firing of a gun. Mr. Seward was received by the members, and, after a pleasant interview, withdrew to amuse himself with a sur- vey of this celebrated fortification. With its foundation, in 1689, the story of British conquest in India began. It is identified with tlie memorable wars, particularly those of Lord Clive, by which that conquest has been perfected. Besides an arsenal, it contains a double line of bomb-proofs to accommodate one thousand men. The esplanade in front of the fort is protected against the sea by a massive stone-walh A statue of Lord Cornwall is is a principal embellishment. It was a surprise to us Americans to see so honorable a monument raised in these colonies to the general who surrendered the last of ! t 362 BRITISH INDIA. *;; * the British armies at Yorktown, and so yielded the last resistance to the independence of the American colonies. The British gen- eral, however, retrieved that misfortune by a successful and brill- iant career as Governor-General of India. Happily for his fame his American disaster is as little remembered by the British nation as his successes in India are remembered in the United States. Mr. Seward recalls a curious anecdote connected \V'th the Corn- wallis surrender at Yorktown. Henry Laurf;ns, of South Carolina had been president of the Continental Congress, and had been appointed minister to the Netherlands. He was captured on his passage and imprisoned in the Tower of London, and held for trial as a traitor to the crown. General Washington showed his con- sideration for the father by delegating Captain Laurens, the son of the imprisoned minister, to receive the sword of Cornwallis at York- town. AVlien news of the surrender reached London, Henry Lau- rens Avas brought before the Court of King's Bench, and discharged from imprisonment on his own recognizance. They say that lie persisted in amending the recognizance by intei'polating the word not. " I, Henry Laurens, acknowledge myself to be held and firmly bound unto "not" my sovereign lord. King George the Third," and tliat Lord Mansfield, finding him obstinate, said, " Let liim take the recognizance in his own way." lebrtmrj/ ISth. — Mr, Seward attended to-day a session of the Legislative Council. The morning papers describe the council and audience as follows : " At the meeting of the Legislative Council held at the council-chambers of Fort St. George to-day, there wore present the Eight Ilonorjible Lord Napier, President, the Honora- ble A. J. Arbuthnot, J. B. Norton, J. D. Surin, P. Mactudyen, A, F. Brown, Mir Ilumayoon, Jah Bahadur, Gu Gujapatti Kow, and Y. Ranueugae. " The Honorable William H. Seward, Mr, J. Sutherland, and;i Euro;')ean pensioner were present." We learn that the Mr. Sutherland mentioned is himself tlie reporter, but all inquiries have failed to ascertain why the third auditor was described by the vague term of " European pensioner," THE LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL. 363 [•n wall is at Yorlc- Sntlicrkiul, iind :i As the names of the councillors would imply, five are British, and four are natives. The subject was a project of a law to raise revenue for education, police, and irrigation, within the presidency. The debates disclosed the fact that there is no recognized line of separation between the powers of the " Imperial " Government, at Calcutta, and those of the provinces, in regard to the rights of taxa.- tion and the sources of revenue. The debates on this occasion revealed what in the United States would be distinguished as a itrong jealousy of State rights — a jealousy, indeed, so groat as to endanger the entire fabric of government if appeal could be allowed to popular suftrage. Practically, however, these demonstrations are of little value. The " Imperial " Government may do what it lists ; provincial authority is rather ornamental than eft'ectiv^e. All tlic members spoke, or, rather, read written speeches. Those of the natives were not less able and instructive than those of the British. It is a curious illustration of the inevitable presence of faction in every form of government, that, although this Legislative Council consists of only eleven members, all of whom derive their a])point- raents from the crown and arc responsible to it alone, it is never- theless divided into two parties, and we strangers, who have been less than a week here, already understand them. Virgil sang " arms and the man," who, driven to exile, left his native land to build a state on a foreign shore. Our theme seems to be, arts and the men who voluntarily go into exile to build a state in distant lands. Three bands were summoned this morning, to give us an idea of native music. All their instruments, with the exception of two violins, were Indian reeds, lutes, and drums. The performances were elaborate, but unmusical and unintelligible. We asked their meaning. The performers explained with manifest al.icrity. "Wc regret to say that even after this explanation we were unable to dis- tinguish the dirge for a lost soul from the cpithalamium. When the first had been performed, Lord Napier asked the leader, a slen- der Hindoo with large, flashing eyes and graceful bearing, to recite and interpret the words of the melody. He rose, made profound mlams, and then, standing erect, in solemn and measured manner 364: BRITISH INDIA. chanted his answer : " The words, my lord, are an appeal to the gods, to allow the poor soul to be consumed immediately with lire that it may no longer be tormented with remorse." Wc had already become weary of the performance, when the third band broke into a discordant imitation of the old "Lancers" quadrille. The musicians were dismissed forthwith, not much to their satistac- tion, although largely rewarded, for they had reckoned on a full day's performance. Hindoo music must have declined here, or it must have been very much improved in Java since its introduction there. *•? ,1»n t|1S •mi m tl« t'» mn. »a «■: ^1 ■L\- i; 3i-'. V •JB3. « *i. m'i: ■ m •" MADUAB. CHAPTEE II. MADRAS {Continued). An Excursion to Arcot. — Railroads in Ilindostan. — Appearance of the Country. — Tho Homage of Flowers. — Cauvcrypak. — The Native System of Cultivation. — Visit to a Bramin. — Schools. — A Car of Juggernaut. — The Dutch Reformed Mission. — Back to Madras. — The Portuguese Settlement. — Gindy Park. — A Diamond Merchant. — Lord and Lady Napier. — The Normal School. February 20th. — We left Madras on the 18th, with Lord Na- pier, in a special train. Arcot, the capital of the famous province of that name, is seventy miles distant from Madras. A renewal of raih'oad travel, after an interval of six months, in which we had come half-way around the globe, was exhilarating. The road, the engine, and the cars, are of European construction, and even the coal is imported from Wales. The gfiuge, five feet eight, is uniform in India ; but the Government, on considerations of economy, has concluded to contract it to the very narrow one recently proposed in Europe. Tliere are three classes of passengers, the third the cheap- est and most numerous. The soil of the region through which we passed is light ; the rocks, granite. The landscape wears a dull, yellowish color, although there is no want of palm and cactus. AYe seemed to he travelling alternately through sandy fields or meadows covered with stagnant water. AVe soon learned, however, that these pools are artificial reservoirs for irrigation. In some places, the prevailing sterile aspect is relieved by fields of growing rice. The peasantry dress chiefly in white. The herds of very small cat- tle are more numerous than we expected to find in a country where ■t 306 BRITISH INDIA. mm if ^•^ m'm 'Mil ' « « the people abstain from animal food. The countiy seemed entirely level, but we gained in the journey an ascent of one thousand feet on the base of the Neilgherry Mountains, one of the three great ranges which traverse the Indian pf.ninsula. At tlua point, we might have supposed that we were entering the Rocky Mountains at Cheyenne. As we rolled over the plain into the shaded streets of the an- cient city of Ranepet, Mr. Seward said to Lord Napier, " Now I know, for the first time, that British authority is firmly established in India." We seem, on this excursion, to be reviewing the history of the conquest. The mountain-passes, the plains, and the monuments, continually recall to our thoughts the first seizure of Madras ; the subsequent contentions, conflicts, surprises, stratagems, ferrs, con- spiracies, extortions, rapacities, and massacres, which, continuing through a period of two hundred and fifty years, have ended at last with the suppression of the mutiny of 1857. In 1745, there was a native war for the succession of the king- dom of the Carnatic, which included the province of Arcot. The French, at Pondicherry, maintained the cause of one claimant ; the British, at Trinchinopoly and Madras, maintained the other. Ma- dras was closely besieged by the French and allies. Clivc, then merely a clerk in the Briti^^h TJast India Company's office at Ma- dras, proposed to force a raising of the siege by making a move on Arcot. His brilliant success in surprising and capturing and holding it four months, with less than four hundred men, against ten thousand French and native troops, was the beginning of the matchless career of that leader whom the elder Pitt pronounced a " heaven-born general." Notice of the governor's coming to Arcot had been sent forward. The native collector of revenue met us at Eanepet, the railway- station for that district. He is thirty years old, speaks English fluently, and was elaborately dressed in native costume. lie was surrounded by some dozen Hindoos. He proceeded at once to place in Lord Napier's hancis flowers and fresh limes, at the same time covering him with garlands of flowers. When the agent had EXCURSION" TO ARGOT. 367 3ts of tlie an- ier, "Now I 1, continuiiin: been presented to us, we were severally bonored with tlie same compliment. We inquired whether this was a voluntary and popu- lar expression of welcome, or a prescribed one, and learned that the ceremony is the Hindoo form of homage to a ruler. At the gate of the station we encountered a crowd, obsequious rather than respectful, who threw flowers in our path, and invested us with new wreaths. Thus splendidly adorned, we passed under a flc al arch to the carriages. At the instant of stepping in, a Hindoo band broke into a musical jargon, which frightened the horses, threaten- ing us with serious danger. A sepoy body c i" infantry had loaded, intending to honor his excellency with a fusillade, but at our re- quest that ceremony was dispensed with. We drove over a good turnpike causeway to the village of Eanepet, a suburb of Arcot. The road is bordered vvith mangoes, tamarinds, yellow flowering acacia, and the Acacia vera, whose juice when coagulated is gum- Arabic. Honorary green arches decorated the way, and innumera- ble flambeaux illuminated it. The approach to the town showed us the never-failing Hindoo temple, which, however small, is always graceful in form, and elegant in construction ; opposite to it, is a Mohammedan mosque, and, farther on, a chapel of the Church of England, and an American mission meeting-house. Here also are the offices of the collector of the revenue. These buildings, together with the barracks and many weather-worn monuments of British heroes who fell here, are the only relies of the city of Arcot, so dis- tinguished in the history of the conquest. For aught we can see, the natives have forgotten, if they ever had the idea of, political •ndcpendence. "We were the guests of the British superior ofiiccr of the district. Yesterday morning our party divided ; Lord Napier and Mr. Seward went to see the fountain and agricultural village of Cauvorypak, distant thirty miles. Artiflcial conduits intercept moui tain-torrents, and convey their waters to this reservoir, which is enclosed by a granite wall supported by broad embankments. A dam, forty feet high, is raised across the natural outlet. The em- bankments are strengthened, on the outer deciivity, by mango and palm trees. Thus the reservoir forms a lake of pure water, high above the surrounding country, which is five miles wide and seven lam- i 308 BPJTISn INDIA. K f K I . «!;>; it 4 H miles lon^^ — and, at high water, thirteen feet deep. We have taken pains to describe this pretty Lake of Cauverypak, because it is a good specimen of ancient reservoirs, constructed for irrigation, in the country — which are innumerable — and all of which alike bear the ugly name of " tank." The system of culture will be easily understood when we have mentioned that a broad plain stretches away from the base of the fountain farther than the eye can reach. Out of this plain arise thirty-two gentle knolls, on each of which stands an agricultural village, and these villages contain an aggregate population of a Imndred and fifty thousand. Cauverypak is one of these. These people cultivate the entire plain in fields varying from an acre to fifteen acres. The staple production is rice. Grounds which, owing to a drought, foil to receive a full supply of M'ater from the reservoir, are called " dry fields," and these are tilled with cereals and vegetables, or serve as pasturage for sheep and cattle. Can- verypak was found exactly in its present condition by the first British adventurers, but it stands without record or tradition. It was a principle of the system of native gove/nment in India, that not only all the lands, but also all the waters in a province, belong to the reigning prince, whatever title he might wear, king, maharajah, rajah, or nawab. He leased them to zemindars (large landlords), or to I'ljots (lesser farmers), who paid for their use according to a tariff' graduated with just relation to the productive- ness of the estates. The British Government has come into the places of the princes, and the Madras presidency maintains the "tanks," and receives the rents. The average rent is four dollars per acre. Drought is a normal incident in India, and is the cause of the famines of which we so often read. In such cases the Government remits the rents, but the zemindars and ryots are nevertheless left without means for the support of their families. The extortion practised upon them by usurers is frightful. Cauverypak village contains ten thousand people, three hundred of whom are ryots; the others chiefly mechanics and laborers. Many of the ryots belong to the privileged castes of Bramins, wdio were not only VISIT TO A BRAMIN. 369 exempt from labor, but forbidden it. Lord ]Siii)ier and ^Ir. Sew- ard were received by the chief Ilramiii ryot at bis hoiise. It is a gtone structure of one low story, with reccption-rooni, diniug-rooni, kitchen, and stable, built around on all sides of an open square. Ill the centre of the square, was a reservoir, an open cistern for •i'lithering and holding rain. Again we ask, Did the llomans bor- row their imj)luvhcm from the East? In rear of this quadrangular building is another of exactly the same form and dimensions. The one opening on the street is the dwelling of the ryot and his family; the other is appropriated to the use of visitors. In the stable are six small oxen, which are used in cultivation, the whole six valued at seventy-five dollars. The manure, like the animals themselves, being sacred, is carefully preserved for burning in the temples, liindoo architecture has a peculiar feature. The veranda, indis- pensable in this climate, is supported by delicate, palm-shaped columns, each of wliic' is ornamented with a broad brass band at the top. There are no bedrooms, but each corridor or passage- way has at each end a dais eighteen inches high, covered with a mat, which serves for a bed. The small garden-plat atta-^hed to the house is filled with cocoa-nut trees, bananas, and beans. The Bramin's furniture is simple enough. lie has two plain tables, two bamboo chairs, and several fine silken rugs. Refreshments are not usually oflTered, but on this occasion fresh milk was served in brazen jugs. The village has two Hindoo temples and one mosque. The school, maintained by the Madras government, has a hundred and fifty native pupils. Besides this, there are twenty native schools, some Hindoo, some Mohammedan, where pupils are received and taught separately, with careful regard to their social castes. Mr. Seward asked the ryot, who is a spiritual authority, whether education is approved by the Bramins. " Yes," answered the Hindoo. " "Why ? " " Because it is pleasing to the gods." " Why does it please the gods ? " " Because it improves the mind, aud makes it appreciative of heaven." The poor villagers gathered around the visitors, and some of the older ones seemed desirous of conversation. They gave Mr. Seward an account of the number of pupils in each of the several f^ 370 BRITISH INDIA. It * ■»i. 1^ schools. They seemed confounded when ho asked if these num- bers included the girls ; they replied, " Only the boys." "VVlion asked how the girls are educated, they said, " No girls are educated except Nautch girls." Passing through an open paved square, Mr. Seward's attention wafa caught by a rough, uncouth, and unwieldy vehicle. It consists of a platform ten feet long and eight feet wide, laid upon axles, on which turned four wooden wheels, all of one size, not more than ten or twelve inches in diameter. In front of the platform stands a carved and unpainted idol, ten feet high, with hideous allegorical emblems and devices. This is a car of Juggernaut. It is drawn through the streets by the people, during sacred ceremonies. Im- molation of devotees is now forbidden by British law. There would seem, however, to be little need for that prohibition. It Avuidd require great skill and effort on the part of a votary to get his neck imder the wheels of the awkward machine. If we did not know that superstition is as blind as it is overpowering, we could not believe that any human mind could conceive such a deformed and misshapen statue to be a god. Mr. Seward's survey of the interest- ing little village closed with an exploration of the suburb Avhich is allotted to the panahs, the lepers, the outcasts of India. Their habitations arc mean and wretched beyond description, but their condition is not without a compensation. While all other castes are obliged by their laws to abstain from animal food, and forbid- den to take animal life, the pariahs are allowed to use the car- casses of the animals found dead. In this way, they have become the tanners of the country. It is no wonder that they arc care- fully watched, to prevent their slaying domestic animals under the pretext of finding them dead. During their long drive, Lord Napier and Mr. Seward saw only one beggar, and he was blind — a Bramin. Having been led np to their carriage by neighbors, he declined to receive alms, because he had left behind him his brazen basin through which he alone could accept coin from any one not of his own caste, without per- sonal contamination. When, however, he felt the weight of a rupee carefully droppeu into his sleeve, he turned his eyeballs THE AROOT MISSION. 371 in the direction from which the party had come, and sung a plain- tive native melody. Lord Napier asked how old he was ; ho answered, " Seventy." " Wliat is the song you have sung bo sweetly ? " " It is a hymn of praise to the gods whom your lord- BJiip passed on the road as you came here." " How is it you sing to the gods, when they have made you blind ? " " The gods have indeed willed that I shall be blind," the mendicant Hindoo replied, " but they protect me still." During Mr. Seward's absence the ladies remained at Ranepct. They had appointed to attend early worship at the missionary- chapel. The matin summons was sounded, not by bells, but by a noisy chattering of birds. Springing up and going quiclcly to the veranda, they saw that the deciduous trees around the bungalow (which had dropped nearly all their leaves) were as green as ever, for they were filled with parrots and paroquets. The Arcot mission of the Dutch Ileformed Church of America (now the Reformed Church) was established in 1855, by three brothers Scudder, sons of the eminent missionary who labored here thirty years ago. Beyond a doubt, the success of this mission is due to the persevering energy and winning address of these preachers, but it was more to their happy combination of medical practice with their religious teachings. Medical science and skill are at a low ebb on the Asiatic Continent, while they have attained a high development in the West. This superiority is known and felt even by the very lowest classes in the East. The Christian physician, who comes to heal the body, naturally finds his patient in a proper temper for the healing of the soul. The municipal district in which the Arcot mission is established is about one hundred and sixty miles square. The missionaries found within it only thirty-five native Christians, and these were without a church or a school. The missionaries (six in number) have now fifty native helpers, who teach day-school in seventeen villages. They have their boarding-schools, two for boys, one for girls, all voluntary pupils. The converts intermarry. The chil- dren thus educated, although belonging to all the various castes of the country, are placed upon a footing of complete equality. The 'I I*'. 372 BRITISH INDIA. :mft-- Mm •6 boarding-scliool at Ranepet, which is the most successful one, oc- cupies large government barracks. Dr. Scudder has introduced some trades into this school, the principal one that of weaving on native looms. But even a more beneficent institution than tliese schools is a medical hospital. The Madras government appropri- ates to it, in addition to the requisite buildings, one hundred and seventy-two rupees (about eighty-five dollars) monthly. The in- stitution was founded in ISOG, and, during the past j(iar,Jift)/-thn'e thousand nine hundred and sixty-three patients were gratuitously treated from its dispensary. Seven hundred and fifty-three of these were in-door patients, who were provided with beds, food, and clothing. Lord Napier has added to this useful charity a spacious house in which persons of different castes may prepare their own food and live separately, according to their native cus- toms. This noble mission draws from its patrons in the United States only twenty-five thousand dollars a year. The simple homes, frugal habits, and patient labors, of these missionaries and their families, are worthy of all praise and admiration. The mis- sionaries are full of hope, though they corfess the work of conver- sion is very slow. They gain only one hundred a year within the disti'ict. JSTevertheless a manifest improvement in the condition of the people is visible. With this improvement, if it shall go on, we mast be content, for we trust that — "Wliatevor creed be taught or land be trod, Man's conscience is the oracle of God." Fehnmry 23r7. — We visited yesterday the suburb called the " Portuguese Settlement ; " so called, not because it is under Por- tuguese jurisdiction, but because it was the site of the Portuguese Victory, before the British conquest. Its inhabitants, of native and mixed Portuguese, are Christians, and speak the Portuguese lan- guage. They have a cathedral, with an exemplary bishop from Lisbon. The cathedral bears the name of St. Thomas, to whom tradition attributes the first teaching of the gospel here. However this particular fact may be, the opinion that that apostle preached thi! gospel on the Coromandel coast is well supported by historical GINDY PARK. 373 arguments. Marco Polo found native Christians here, who claimed that their clmrcli was planted by the doubting disciple. Yasco de Gama found native Christians on the coast during his second voyage of discovery. Guides show us the hill and cave at Malapoo, where it is alleged that St. Th> mas sought refuge and suffered martyrdom. They say that even the threshold of the cave still bears the impress of his foot. Gindy Parh, February lUh. — We have come to pass a day at this summer palace. On the way we inspected a " model farm," which is maintained by the Madras government. Three hundred acres are divided into two equal parts, of which one is used for the cultivtition of exotic gi'ains, plants, and seeds ; the other is culti- vated with European implements only — the design being to com- mend Western agriculture to the natives. We learn that the institution gains favor. We wore much interested in a small ham- let through which we passed. The inhabitants are wanderers from Northern India. It is maintained, not without plausibility, that the Grypsies of Europe are descended from the same class. Their pretty habitations are in mango-orchards, and are built of branches of pulin, exactly in the shape of a beehive. They gather the fruit, and pay to the Madras government an annual rent of two rupees (a dollar) a year for each tree. We imagine they are the only rent- luyini,' tenants of their outcast race. We hav^o seen a specimen of Hindoo village-schools. Thirty boys, most of them naked, were sitting in the sand, under the shade of a wide-spreading niango- trcc, in a circle. The master stood in the centre, rod in hand, and tjavc out successive lessons, in the Tamil language, in spelling and arithmetic. The whole school, simultaneously, took the words from his mouth, giving them back with their own ; and at the same time wrote the words with their fingers in the sand. These children showed great agility, as v/ell as quickness of apprehension. No sooner had they written the text in the ground, tlian they sprang to tlieir feet, raised their right hands to their foreheads and made a mhm^ indicating that they were ready to receive the next lesson. We crossed a stone bridge which has stood a hundred and fifty 23 fc', pi. '-•»*» .■•l| 374 BRITISH INDIA. It I I ,£^, * years with only the repair of a parapet. A small tenement beneath the bridge was pointed out to us as the dwelling of the descendants of the Armenian merchant who brought himself to poverty in build- ing the magnificent structure. Gindy House is even more extensive and elegant than Govern- ment House at Madras. The park contains fifteen hundred acres. Native deer, of the four kinds known in India, sport on the lawns. Instead of alighting at a gate or jyorte-cochhe, we were driven to a shade in the beautiful gardens. They exhibit a luxuriance unknown in colder climates. Every wall, every thatched roof every gateway and column, seems to have been especially designed to support a flowering creeper, which nearly conceals the structure, and these plants are as various in hue as in the form of tendril or leaf. Efforts are made to produce northern exotics, as studied as those which we at home make to cultivate tropical plants. Tiie success in each case is about the same. We doubt which was most effective, the gorgeous display of flowers around us, or the dew-drops which glistened on grass, and flowers, and trees, under the rays of the morning sun. The heat increasing rapidly, we took shelter under a noble mango, where the morning libation of tea was made. We talked and laughed at translations of the highly-imaginative native poetry. We dined ew jamille at the palace, and, as the evening shades came on, adjourned to a fete-chami)cire in the gardens. The society of Madras was there. If any thing was needed to heighten the brill- iant scene, it was found in the exquisite music of the niilitarv bands, which played airs in echo across the broad park and on its beautiful lakes. Madrafi^ Fehpuary 26th. — New acquaintances and new studies. The diamond merchant is an important personage in every Asiatic country, for diamonds are the favorite investment of wealth. An eminent Armenian of that class breakfasted at Government House this morning. His organ of perception is strongly developed, and he has a shrewd, almost furtive expression. He was entertained in the most acceptable manner by being allowed to exhibit for MADRAS. 376 our instrnction the contents of his waistcoat-pockets, consisting of diamonds of every size and of every water, jewels quite sufficient for a coronation, and even enough to satisfy the ambition of a Fifth Avenue belle. He gave us a relation of what he considered the ijreatest transaction of his life : Having acquired in the course of trade an extraordinary diamond, he sent his son to Europe to sell it. The son was admitted to the Tuileries, and the empress bought it; it is one of the "pear-shaped" diamond car-rings which figured so conspicuously in the inventory of her jewels. The empress called for "the regent," and showed it to the young Armenian. "My son," said the merchant, "was permitted to take that cele- brated gem in his hand ; he looked into it through tears of joy, and did not give it back until he had pressed it to his lips." Evening. — It will be a mournful day for Madras when Lord and Lady Napier take their leave. While he builds and endows uni- versities and hospitals, there is no charity which she neglects. We visited an orphan asylum with her to-day, and afterward an asylum for the children of the Sepoys. Although the studies for the day were ended, and the children were at play in the grounds, they came cheerfully up and took their places in the examination-room. They inquired what they should sing for us. Mr. Seward propo=otl " From Greenland's icy mountains." They sang it in full chorus, and insisted upon our naming another. They sang this too ; then, following us to the gate, gave us " God save the Queen." Perhaps the best, certainly the most interesting, of these noble charities, is the normal school for the instruction of native women. It has fifteen pupils, all of high caste. They are educated free of charge, and even paid for their attendance. They are driven to and from the school-house in close carriages, so that they may not be "seen of men." We fear that the importance of this noble step toward the civilization of the East is scarcely realized at home. We noticed among the pupils a girl of seventeen, distinguished from her dark-eyed companions by a sad demeanor and ]ilaintive voice. In a single year she had lost her husband whom she loved, and her only child. The laws of her caste doomed her to seclusion 376 BRITISH INDIA. and celibacy for life, to give up her jewels, friends, and hopes. The normal school allows her activity, cheerfulness, and usefulness. "We learn that the Dnke of Argyll, Secretary for India, takes a deep interest in the institution, and has just sent out from England a young lady to take charge of it, who was educated for that pur- pose in the United States. *« • THB SUHF AT MADBAS. CHAPTER III. FROM MADRAS TO CALCUTTA. The Surf at Madras. — On the Bay of Bengal. — Tlie Lion-Whelps.— The Ilooglj'.— The Vioeroy's Invitation. — Earl and Countess Mayo. — Glimpses of Calcutta. — The Baboo. — The Baboo's House and Harem. — The Government House. Steamer Australia, Baxj of Bengal, Fehruary '2'th. — The surf never ceases to beat and break against the shore at Madras. A dozen years ago an attempt was made to overcome the difficulty by extending a pier into the sea. But there was found neither capi- tal nor engineering skill anywhere sufficient to make the work elective. We insisted on leaving the shore in the primitive way. A native surf-boat, eighteen feet long, live feet wide, and six feet deep, was hauled high and dry on the beach. The boat is constructed with bamboo-withes instead of spikes and nails, to prevent leakage, and of miiterial so light, and proportions so exact, that no weight of water will cause it to sink. It is presumed always that, notwith- standing the boat is so deep, it will fill in going through the break- ers. For this reason, the passengers, as well as the oarsmen, sit on benches which are stretched across the boat's brim, and each bench serves as a brace for the feet of the occupants of the bench behind it. We were lifted in chairs by Hindoos and sjnlled on the benches in the stern, under the awning of British flags. A secretary and an aide-de-camp of the governor were with us, and we enjoyed our li 378 BRITISH INDIA. new excitement as our score of boatmen, with merry shouts and cheerful song, laboriously forced the boat through the foaminf' surf. We sailed at four o'clock. If the thought gave us sadness that we were never to see Madras again, we consoled ourselves with the reflection that, even if a return were possible, we should not find there the same friends ; and what could we see, or know, or enjcy there without them ? i- ■« (it BaT/ of Be7igal, Fehruary 2Sth. — Once again on the same calm sea, with the same southern breezes, protected by the broad awning from the same burning sun. Our two weeks of rest and recreation at Madras already seem not so much an episode of our voyage, as a refreshing and inspiring dream. At daylight we had reached shoal water, and a channel marked by lighted buoys. Birds sur- rounded the ship in great numbers. Sailing-ships and steamers continually shot by us. Consulting the chart, we found that, al- though no land was vifc'ble, we had entered between the capes which guard the entrance of the IJoogly into the bay of Bengal. Vie took a native pilot. The Iloogly is one of the rivers which, dividing into a thou- sand creeks, and through as many lagoons, discharge the mighty flood of the Ganges. Ever-moving sand-bars render the navigation here uncertain and perilous. We slackened our speed from forty- nine to fourteen revolutions until the flood-tide set in. Low, sandy shores at length appeared. Subject at all seasons to terrible inun- dations, they have never been reclaimed for tillage, and are often strewn with the bodies of animals, a-Td sometimes with human bodies. Our ship ought to receive a demonstrative welcome at Calcutta, for she bears two African lion-whelps to grace the menagerie of some potentate there ; whether nativti prince or European viceroy, we have not learned. Although but three months old, these " babes " have attained a large size. They stare at us boldly with their big green eyes, and switch their tails with a savage inde- pendence. inous xiame CALCUTTA. 379 r shouts and the foaming sadness that Ives with the juld not find ow, or enjoy, he same calm broad awning md recreation jur voya<i;e, as > had reached s. Birds eur- and steamers found that, al- een the capes jay of Bengal. D- into a thou- rre the mighty the navigation ;ed from forty- Low, sandy terrible inun- and are often ;s with human me at Calcutta, menagerie of ropean viceroy, iths old, these us boldly with a savage inde- March \st. — The Iloogly has shrunk to the width of the Hud- son at Foughkeepsie. The vegetation here is as luxuriant as at the equator. Yery soon, however, these palm-shaded fields, though so freshly overflc wed, will become dry and brown. Although we are entering Calcutta before the vernal equinox, the heat is already intense. If we distrust our strength to explore the continent before us, we have nevertheless the inspiring thought that wc are floating on the Ganges we have so long desired to see — the Ganges, notwithstanding it is called here by the less eupho- nious ^larae of the Hoogly. Calcutta, March Id. — As we approached the wharf yesterday, the viceroy's barge — ^manned by thirty Bengalese boatmen in scarlet livery — rounded up to the Australia's side. Major Burne (private secretary of the viceroy) came on board, accompanied by the United States consul-general, Mr. Jacobs, and Mr. McAllister, an American residing here. Major Burne delivered a letter from the viceroy, inviting us to be guests at Government House during our stay here. Mr. Seward had before accepted the invitation of the consul-general and Mr. McAllister. The matter was quickly com- promised, with the understanding that, after passing some days with our countrymen, we should accept the hospitalities of the viceroy. Last night happened to be a " state " one at the opera ; that is to say, the performance then was to be honored by the presence of the viceroy. The representation of " Lucia di Lammermoor " by an Italian troupe, before a fashionable assemblage, made us aware that we had at last reached the Eastern verge of Western society. Earl Mayo and the Countess of Mayo, in the central box, were sur- rounded by their suite, and a group of native princes, or rajahs, whose gold and jewels far outshone those worn by the ladies of the viceregal court. Between the acts Mr. Seward was presented to I the viceroy, and afterward to the brilliant circle. His lordship in- si&i ^d that Mr. Seward, without taking upon himself the trouble of making a preliminary visit, should with his family lunch at Govcni- ment House to-day, and then, or as soon after as convenient, become 1, ■■ tt % m»>>*m !*.» .»•.(. fR -^'sa •■a W 'ff 11 THE CITY OF PALACES. 381 inmates of that household. lie was further informed that carriages and barges would be at his orders during his stay here. The Earl of Mayo is purely Irish. He is tall, handsome, and lias a commanding presence, with manners which, though dignified, are frank and genial. As Lord Naas, he was many years a conser- vative member of Parliament, and was Secretary for Ireland during the Disraeli administration. March 'Id, Evening. — We have enjoyed a pleasant morning at Government House. This evening, the few Americans residing here dined wnn ui at Mr. McAllister's. The fact that they all hail from Boston is creditable to the enterprise of that intellectual city. During the day we had some glimpses of Calcutta. If it were in the West, its aspect would hardly justify the distinction it bears —"the City of Palaces." The government buildings are indeed extensive, numerous, and substantial ; but, in point of architecture, they are respectable rather than imposing. Private dwellings of foreigners combine European solidity with the graceful Oriental verandas and columns ; but they have no pretentious magnificence. The native city contains many stately residences of pleasant aspect, but generally the dwellings are low and common. The appearance of the whole city (the foreign as well as the native part) is spoiled by a wretched stucco which, by exposure to the weather, becomes dingy and discolored. The suburbs on the river-banks are disfig- ured with brick-yards, counted not by hundreds, but by thousands. The array would seem to indicate that the city is enjoying a vigor- ous growth ; inquiry, however, brings out the fact that no sand fit for building is found in the vicinity, and bricks are therefore burned and pulverized as a substitute for that necessary article. March Mh.— A northeaster set in on the 1st, and we have since had cold rains. The " oldest inhabitant " says that this is a new freak of the climate. Hard as it has rained, we have never- theless been obliged to go abroad, for — after seven months' travel, as may be easily imagined — we have pretty much come to the left' 883 BRITISH INDIA. * 1. I unhappy condition of our celebrated countrywoman, " Miss Flora McFliiiiscy." Our troubles are aggravated at the state of the market, which, they aay, is just experiencing the calamitous cftucts of the war between Germany and France. Gloves are not to be had in Calcutta. The " JaJoo," called by Burke, in his invective against Warren Hastings, the " banyan," is a native trained to trade, and speaks English. Like the comprador in China and Japan, he attaches himself to a mercantile house, to an official contractor, or some other business concern (either native or foreign), and negotiates commercial matters ; receiving commissions from one party or the other, according to circumstances. He often rises to wealth and influence. One of this class solicited a visit from Mr. Seward, add- ing that, while the baboo and his sons would receive him, the ladies would be welcomed by the zenana. Such a courtesy is rarely, if ever, extended to foreigners. The foundation of this baboo's fortune was laid by his father long ago, in connection with an American house ; and the present incumbent, who is seventy years old, has added to his wealth and importance. He has now his fifth wife. We visited him to-day. The house, though more cheaply built than those of the wealthy class which we saw at Canton, is of the same model. It is three stories high, and covers the sides of a square as large as one of the blocks of Philadelphia. The area within is used for fountains and baths. A group, consisting of the baboo's three sons and their sons, received us at the gate, very obsequiously. They showed us the way to a grand hall, having a vaulted roof and double colon- nade. A few elegant chairs, with yellow-satin cushions, placed on a scarlet-velvet rug in the centre of the room, constituted the fur- niture. Here the eldest son welcomed Mr. Seward in a eulogistic English oration, and then presented his several brothers and each of the lads in attendance. Erightly-dressed servants meanwhile stirred the air with large peacock-fans, mounted on massive silver handles five feet long ; others, to the great prejudice of the ladies' dresses, sprinkled us from head to foot with rose-water from silver vases ; others, again, covered us with garlands and bouquets ; and THE BABOO'S HAREM. 383 yet others held before us silver vases containing the attar of roses for perfuming the hands. These cerenionics over, wc ascended to the baboo's room, in the third story. Quite infirm, he was dressed as a valetudinarian, though richly. He welcomed Mr. Seward as the "great father of the greatest of the nations." The baboo con- ducted us then to an adjacent drawing-room, and ordered that all tlie children of the house, not excepting the youngest, girls as well as boys, should be brought in by their ayahs (nurses). Twenty infants were brought in, gaudily dressed. The little ones acted their proper parts with entire truth to nature: some shrank backward ; many screamed ; one or two shrieked ; while others extended their small hands, and bashfully performed salams. After this came an order, from the baboo, as unexpected as it was unprecedented in that family. It was that all the women of the family, except the widows, should now enter the apartment. Re- ceiving this command, in their different rooms, the women inquired through a messenger whether they were to be seen by the ladies only. The baboo imperiously replied: "They must all be pre- sented to Mr. Seward, and receive him as a friend. lie is a friend of mankind ; he shall see us just as we are, and see all that we do — wc will have no secrets from him." This was intended as a great compliment to Mr. Seward. There was a sound of pattering feet, and a gentle rustling was heard. It was followed by the entrance of eight little women, all of whom were dressed in gauze of gold and various colors — only gleaming jewels could be seen through their veils. They trembled like so many aspens as they approached gracefully, lifted their slen- der arms — almost covered with gold — and extended to us their little nervous hands. The baboo was not yet content. He requested us to raise their veils. Wc did so gently, and looked upon gazelle eyes and pretty features, but the wearers were so abashed that, in tenderness for them, we soon let the veils drop. In answer to our compliments, they spoke not a word. The gentlemen now with- drew. Mr. Seward was then shown through seventy-five rooms, in- cluding a family chapel — the furniture of all very meagre and ;1 Jjj., )t4. I; 1 ;i ■ I' X: V ■ 'i i 384 BRITISH INDIA. **« » t-3' ,- plain, tlie stairs steep and narrow, and the corridors dark and perplexing. The women, being left alone with their visitors, now volun- tarily communicated, through a lady interpreter, all the family secrets : the number of wives each of the baboo's sons had married and lost ; the number of children of each wife ; and the number and value of the jewels each possessed. The wife of the eldest son presented her daughter — a bright and laughing maiden bedecked with jewels — who, having attained the advanced age of eighteen months, has already been man-icd to a little gentleman who also was present, and who claims the experience of ten years. He has been elected to the honor of this marriage because he is the pre- sumptive head of the caste to which this iamily belongs. Accord ing to the custom of the country, he has been brought into the tamily of his bride to be educated. There are eight pairs of such prematurely-married people in this family, which consists of sev- enty-five persons. The windows of all the chambers of the zenana, or harem, are darkened, and made secure with iron bars, as in a prison. The widows, even more secluded than the wives, inhabit the meanest and dingiest of the chambers. The women showed, with perfect freedom, their sleeping-rooms, baths, and the contents of their wardrobes. Eaeix woinau has three garments. These being woven in the shape required, there is no need of mantua-maker or milli- ner ; the only care bestowed on this property is to hang them up and take them down. The care of the children is devolved on the ayahs. As the wife neither sews, nor reads, nor writes, she has absolutely no occupation but to talk with her companions of the zenana ; and, as might perhaps be expected, domestic discords are frequent. The guests (in the zenana) were then served with cakes, comfits, and betel-nuts, the latter broken in small bits and folded in silver-foil. The interview closed with the same ceremonies with which we had been received, newly fanning the guests with pea- cocks' plumes, sprinkling them with rose-water, and perfuming the hands with the attar. The baboo, in his conversation with Mr. Seward, represented SWINGING ROUND THE CIRCLE. 385 that a general discontent with British authority is felt by his coun- trymen, but he left it quite clear that they have not the faintest idea of uprising or of resistance. Helpless and listless, they follow the conflicts of the Western nations, cnly for the purpose oi obtaining a hope — most unreasonable — that, amid the chances of war, India will receive a new conqueror, either the United States or Russia. Mr. Seward left the baboo without lending any encouragement to these political expectations. lie joined the party in the grand hall below, when we were honored with the ceremonies twice before described ; besides, a treat of champagne, ice, cofiee, and the hookah. The younger boys of the family now fell upon the floor and kissed our feet ; with their fathers, they attended us to the gates, and then dismissed us with such a shower of compliments and thanks as convinced us that even the Spanish language of courtesy is Btinted and cold compared with Oriental flattery. If we are to believe them, " they still weep for our return." Eight bearers came after us bringing a tray tilled with confectionery. * Government House, 3/arch lih. — "We took up our residence here to-day. Although the distance from Mr. McAllister's house is short, the journey was long, and not made without some diffi- culty. Wc had appointed to be here at five o'clock, and, under viceregal leave, had directed the Bengalese coachman to come for us a little before that hour. lie had, however, become accustomed to our daily habit of driving about the city, and did not understand our command to bring us here. He drove us up and down the strand, around the gardens, and through the city. Aware of his mistake, we, from time to time, enjoined upon him our commands — at last our entreaties — to drive directly to Government House. To changed his course every time, but only to drive in some new circle around the palace. We appealed in vain from, the coachman to the footman and to the postilions. But, all being Bengalese, they un- derstood not a w^ord, and so we went on, " swinging " faster and faster " around the circle." By a fortunate circumstance, we met Mr. Jacobs, who, addressing the coachman in his own vernacular, made him understand that it was the centre of the great circle that i 386 iJRITlSiI IxNDlA. f s I we desired to penetrate. An hour and a half having been spent in these gyrations, we found at the door of Government House, not Major Burne (who was to receive us), but a servant, charged to conduct us to our apartments, and to explain that the secretary, having waited until six o'clock, had gone to fulfil another engage- ment. Government House, which was built during the administration of the Marquis of Wellesley, has dimensions perhaps one-fourth less than the Capitol at Washington. It is enclosed, with its gar- dens, by a high iron balustrade. Its walls are brick, covered witli stucco ; tlie style, Italian. The arrangements and embellishments are English, and display that peculiar patriotic pride which seems to be of the same nature as the Himily pride of a distant or poor relation in social life. We almost imagine ourselves British colo- nists, living in the days of our ancestors, before the American Revolution. The noble, arched gateway is ornamented with no such modern and republican symbol as the " bird of freedom," with arrows and olive-branch in its claws. Nor does cornice or architrave present any such mysterious legend as ^^ E jjlurihm tmum.''^ Nor does tower or turret show any stars or stripes, or any modern tricolored ensign. Instead of all these, there are a lion and a unicorn over the gateway, and they are as usual " a-figliting for the crown," bearing on their necks the scroll with the daring words "Z>/<2w. et mon droitP The stately cross of St. George flaunts from the palace-walls. Marquees and tents cover the plain, surmounted with the same flag ; and officers, soldiers, and ser- vants, all are clothed in the gorgeous scarlet-and-gold uniform which betokens British royal authority. A great gilded chair and canopy, at the upper end of a great hall, give it the ambitions name of " Throne-Room." The walls are covered with British portraits — prominent among them those of the obstinate George III. and Charlotte his faithful queen ; the Earl of Chatlium and General Wolfe, Lord North, Lord Cornwallis, General Bnrgoyne, Lord Clivc, and Warren Hastings. The ceremonies and etiquette of this palace are copied from those of Buckingham Palace. The person, stranger or otherwise, who desires or claims notice at court, TROPICAL BIRDS. 387 instead of presenting letters or leaving cards, registers his name in the adjutant's book. If recognized, lie is honored with audience ; if not, nothing is said. In the morning a list of the invited guests is submitted to each member of the family, and each guost residing in the fomily, and he answers whether he dines with the party or in private, or dines out. When the dinner-hour arrives, and the guests are assembled in the throne-room standing, the viceroy and tlie Countess of Mayo enter, each attended by an aide-de-camp, and salute their guests individually. The band plays during the din- ner ; conversation at the table is subdued. Before the end, the viceroy rises — and wuth him the whole party — and he proposes, in a loud voice, the only sentiment of the evening : " The Queen." Then follows conversation, with amateur music, in the drawing- room ; at the end of which the viceregal hosts take leave of the party individually and retire. AVe are never able to forget, in -doors or out, that we are in the tropics. The adjutant-bird, formal and pensive, stands sentinel over the great gate. Resting on one leg, with his knowing head under his wing, he often sleeps on his post. Immense ravens, with drab collars and caps, are walking before and behind you on the piazzas. Parrots, in variegated costumes of green, gold, and scar- let, fill the trees ; martins, in jet-black coats ; and swallows, plain and brown ; twittering wrens, and thousands of slender mines, in- habit the cornices and capitals. Not unfrequently the birds per- sist, against all housewifely care and resistance, in building their nests in " coigncs of vantage " found within the walls ; sometimes in the curtain-tenters ; sometimes on the tops of or behind y^icture- framcs. In the evening, we find the veranda-floor in front of ou" apartments strewed with dry branches and twigs, which the bird- builders have deposited there in mass for further use. The next day the unwearied architects take up the material and bear it to its appointed place on shelf or cornice. The raven is especially a thief: flying in at the windows, he carries away any minute, bright article or ornament left exposed. The steward aspiired us that the birds have borrowed this naughty practice from the native servants, who, he alleges, are universally addicted to petty larceny. CHAPTER IV. CALCUTTA {Continued). The Maharajah of Putteeala. — Oriental Magnificence— Kali Ghaut. — The Temple.— Hin- doo Idols. — Kali. — Siva. — A Mohammedan Mo8t(ue. — The Reading of the Budget- Indian Finances. — The King of Oude. — The Prince of Oude. f 9 March 9th. — The fasliionable promenade of Calcutta is the pub- lic garden, which is named Eden. The name, however, is not bor- rowed from paradise, as might be supposed, but was bestowed in ccmpliment to the Hon. Miss Eden, the accomplished sister of Earl Godolphin Osborne, a former governor-general. We visited this garden yesterday with Lady Mayo, at sunset, for evening begins at sunset here. Brilliant gas-lights sparkling through the dark foliage of mango, palm, and cypress trees, with music from a central stand beneath them, lent their strong attractions. It was a gay scene. "We walked on the green lawns, and for an hour listened to the music, suiTounded by beautiful English ladies dressed from boxes just out from London and Paris; happy children glad of release from confinement of nurses and school-room, chasing each other over the lawns ; army-officers in full-dress for dinner or the opera ; stately baboos in white cambric ; dusky Sepoy guards in white-and-red uniforms; rajahs in jewelled turbans and gold- embroidered robes ; and, in the back-ground, parsees, in their fun- nel hats, were seen in earnest converse. Mohammedans on their knees, with faces toward Mecca, were repeating their prayers. His highness the Maharajah of Putteeala, of Northern India, was one lie Temple.— Hin- of the Budget.— >S1 :~M V iiii Jill 'm W^^ it THE MAHARAJAH OF PUTTKEAl A, (irand CommnndcT of the fltp.r of Inrtln. I* m 390 BRITISH INDIA. of the immediate circle around Lady Mayo. His family is distin- guished for loyalty to the British Government. His father rendered good service during the mutiny. For these considerations, he has recently heen invested in great pomp with the order of the Star of India. In acknowledgment of that high distinction, he gives to- night a concert to Lord and Lady Mayo. He is a very athletic man, appearing to be thirty years old, but is, in fact, only twenty years. He speaks English imperfectly, and seems to have hut a limited education. Mr. Seward asked him what were the produc- tions of his estates ? The maharajah answered : " I am not like the people you see here in Calcutta. I am a prince. I have many zemvnda/ts. I have power. I can hang the man if I like, and I can send anybody to jail for all his life." The " Star of India " is an order of knighthood which was pro- jected by Prince Albert, into which British subjects and native? of India are alike elected, on the ground of distinguished service to tlie British nation in India, They say that Prince Albert was perplexed to find a motto which should be equally inoffensive tc' Christians and heathens. He happily chose this : " Heaven's light our guide." March lO^A. — The maharajah's concert was given in a style of Oriental magnificence at the town-hall, before an audience of twelve hundred, all of whom the prince had invited. An illuminated arch was raised above the porch of the building, and above it blazed the " Star of India," with all the effect which gas-jets and reflectors of burnished silver could produce. The vaulted roof of the building is supported by double rows of white Corinthian col- umns with corresponding pilasters. The Veiling and walls wen p'linted in delicate green ; groups of rose-colored lamps were suf- pended between the columns and pilasters, and the nave was ligbt- ed with transparencies designed to illustrate the greatness and glory of Britain. The splendid combination of light and color brought out in full relief the garlands and festoons of flowers whicli burdened the air with perfume. Sofiis were arranged so as to afibrd the guests full freedom of promenade and conversation in KALI GHAUT. 391 the intervals of the music. The raaharajah, with rcyal munifi- ceoce, brought the entire operatic troupe upon the stage, while iudepenJent bands of music were stationed at all the approaches of the edifice. The turbaned and decorated prince appeared in his own proper regalia of gold and jewels, realizing the highest descrip- tions we have ever read of Eastern gorgeousness. He wore not only rings without number on his fingers, a golden girdle at his waist, necklaces of jewels, and " ropes of pearls " on his breast, but also a blue-and-gold satin robe, which was broidered to the depth of six inches with a solid mass of glittering precious stones. It is needless to say that the musical performance was very good, yet it was the ostentatious display which attended it that was the wonder of Calcutta that night. We went to-day in search of Kali Ghaut. It is the most famous of the Hindoo temples here, and from it the city derives its namt We found it in a base suburb. It has three disconnected struct- ures, which, although they are built after the customary models, and of solid materials, seem nevertheless mean, when seen with their vulgar surroundings. The floors of all are on one level, eight feet above the ground, and are reached by stone steps. The build- ing on the right hand is a circular one about fifteen feet high above the floor, open all around, with a roof supported by Hindoo columns. The central building is an oblong one. The third and principal edifice is a square surmounted by a dome, which ox- tends beyond the walls, and is supported by outside columns. It has no windows ; light is admitted through small doors on three sides. The building first described is the hall of sacrifice, into which only Bramin priests are admitted. The building last r'--- scribed contains the shrine of the goddess Kali, to whose service the Thugs especially devoted themselves. Not even its threshold must be profaned by the footstep of the vulgar. The central edifice is the worshippers', from which they pay their adoration to the divin- ity on the right hand, and on the other witness the sacrifices. A Bramin crowd dressed in clean white, many of them speaking un- commonly good English, were assiduous, though not obtrusive, in explaining the mysteries to us. As we went through the grounds. :J92 BRITISH INDIA. ** ... « «• m : f i a native police sprang forth at every turn to protect us against an" injury or oifcnce. AVo waited an liour for the priest who had the keys. He came at last, arrayed in pure white — a tall man and dic- nified, in every way seeming worthy to serve at the altar. With nmcli labor, he unfastened a massive padlock, and, turning Its heavy bolts backward, threw open a door on either side of the sanc- tuary, and disclosed to us through the dim light a wrought-iron or stone figure, of human proportions but scarcely of human sliapo. The idol is black, has three glaring red eyes, a broad golden tonguo tipped with black, which projects from a distended mouth down to the waist, and is dripping with blood. The arms are large. The left hand holds a giant's heitd ; the right hand, a sword with which it has been severed — both crimsoned \vith blood. A necklace of infants' skulls graces the demon. Devout worshippers prostrated themselves around us, and something like mumbled prayers were heard as they beat their heads upon the pavement. We placed some rupees in a vessel before us ; these were thrown at the feet of K:;li, and the doors were quickly closed. This savage deity called Kali is the wife of Siva, and is the author of all the evils which beset the human race. Bullocks and goats are sacrificed. Fire purifies the latter, and the offering is eaten by the priests; the former, incapable of purification, are charitably given to pari- ahs. The ground around the hall of sacrifice is rank with the odor of putrefaction. One hundred and fifty Bramins and their families live in and about this temple. They seem to be supported by con- tributions of pilgrims, and by deprecatory oflerings of merchants who are engaging in business enterprises. Wo went from the Kali Ghaut to a temple which is dedicated to Siva. The divinity here is a black spherical stone, ten inches in diameter, set on a concave stone of lighter color, in the centre of the pavement. The temple was too sacred to be desecrated by our feet. We were allowed only to look upon it tin'oiigh the open door. The attending priest threw the rupees upon the stone god. Walking from one temple to the other, we passed numerou? idols. Some represent Juggernaut with a human face elongatcil THE "BLACK HOLE." 39:i ,ato au elephant's trunk. Others represent Vishnu ; others, of grotesqu-^ shape, represent the children of Siva and Kali. If we were asked which one of the Oriental superstitions seems to us the most absurd, we should say it is that of the hideous Kali, the un- meaning Siva, and their misshapen olfspring. We noticed that the Bramin attendants here value a god, not .so much for his character, as for the costliness of the material of whicjii he is made. They represented to us that it was not worth our while to visit Siva at all, because temple and idol are cheap and mean ; nor did they conceal their disrespect for the dingy elephan- tine children of Kali and Siva, but they expressed the profound'^st awe and reverence for golden Kali. Returning to the city, we paused to admire a beautiful white marble memorial-mosque, which has minarets at the angles, but no central dome. The jnuezzin was solenmly calling the faithful to evening-prayer. The porch was covered with the sandals of the worshippers, who had already entered the courts, which we werei forbidden to profane. Is it strange that this Mohammedan struct- ure and worship, simple and severe, impressed us with sentiments of respect and even devotion, when thus seen in immediate contrast with the temples of the base Hindoo idols ? The memory which lingers here of the " Black Hole," the sub- liiiiest horror in the history of India, is very taint. With the aid of an antiquarian, we found the site enclosed within the area of the Post-office. March \Oth. — The reading of the "Budget" is here, as it is in Eu^dand, the great ])olitical transaction of the year. It took place to-day, in the marble hall of Government House, in the presence of a considerable assembla2:e. Mr. Seward was honored with a privileged seat. The arrangement of the council-chamber was not unlike that of the cabinet council at the White House, except that the viceroy's seat is raised on the dais. The exposition of the finances, by Sii* Richard Temple, was a lucid and elaborate perform- ance, but it wanted the tone of calm dignity which distinguishes the speeches of the British Chancellor of the Exchequer, or the 394 BRITISH fNDIA. ^ «25 1, * ; I 'I! li report of the United States Sceretiiry of the Treasury. The dofei- ence toward home rule, which was manifested in every paragraph, was in strong contrast with the independent spirit of legislation on financial questions in the American colonies before our Revolution. In India, no councillor, nor any subject, questions the omni'^otence of the Parliament of Great Uritain. The debt of British India (in round numbers) is one hundred million pounds sterling — five times greater than the national debt of the United States before our civil war, and about one-fourth as large as the debt is at the present time. The revenue is about fifty million pounds sterling. Only an in significant part is derived from customs, it being the policy of the Home Government to encourage the consumption of British manu- factures in the colonies. Eight million pounds sterling (net) i.s obtained from the culture and sale of opium, on which drug the (xovernment makes an actual profit of one hundred per cent. Sail monopoly brings in five million pounds ; a land tax imposes the severe exaction of one and a quarter per cent, on valuation. None .)f these revenues excite as much discontent as the tax of two and a half per cent, on incomes, which is equally obnoxious to British residents and native zemindars. That tax must be abandoned, oven at the cost of reduction of the military expenses. Railroad enterprise in India is wortiiy of all admiration ; although it was begun only twenty years ago, there are now five thousand miles of completed roads, and two hundred and fifty miles are added an- nually. The Government guarantees an income of five per cent. on the capital invested in railroads. They make a return thus far of only two and one-half per cent. When we consider the vast population and resources of India, there seems no reason to sup- ])0se that railroads will be less productive than in Europe and the United States. After the council, the members asked Mr. Seward whether his financial experience enabled him to make any suggestion for the removal of the difficulties arising (Kit of the income-tax and the railroad subsidies. He answered : " Your railroads will increase the demand for foreign manufactures, an increase of customs will enable you to dispense with the income-tax ; the railroads, more- KING OF OUDE'S SON. 895 ^. The dcfer- sry paragraph, legislation on Lir llevolution. e omni]^otence 'itisli India (in no; — five times before our civil le present time. ;. Only an in- e policy of the [■ British uianu- terling (not) is vhicli drug the per cent. Salt, ax imposes the .luation. None ax of two and ii :ious to British be abandoned, iuses. llailroad dthough it was ousand miles of are added nn- »f five per cent. return thus far »nsider the vast reason to sup- uirope and the ard whether his >'o;estion for the ime-tax and the ds will increase of customs will railroads, more- over, will enable you to reduce your army of one hundred and fifty thousand Sepoys, and your seventy-five thousand European troops, to much smaller figures. Having made these economies, you will then be ready to admit the natives to a limited representation in the provincial councils." All the members of the Goyernment, natives as well as foreign- ers, are fitly-chosen, intelligent, able men. Mr. Seward pronounces Earl Mayo the " hardest worker " as well as the most sagacious of them all. March Wth. — The majestic declamations of Burke, in the trial of Warren Hastings, have made the civilized world familiar with the tragic story of the kingdom of Oude. We may, hereafter, have jucasion to speak, not of the kingdom, but of the king. The last descendant of the native king, who reigned at Lucknow under the British protectorate, joined the mutiny in 1857. On its suppres- sion, he was deprived of the kingdom, but was allowed to retain his sovereign rank with a munificent pension, though obliged to reside in Calcutta, under government surveillance. Yesterday, we re- paired to his palace on the bank of the Hoogly, in compliance with his invitation. The royal residence consists of twelve sta; ""ly edi- fices with colonnades, which accommodate retainers, servants, and soldiery, numbering in all ten thousand. A regiment of native troopb gave Mr. Seward a salute at the grand gate, and we were received at the palace by the king's eldest son, the heir-apparent, who announced that his father, being very ill, had deputed him to bo his representative on the occasion of our visit. We have never seen a handsomer youth, although he is swarthy. Dressed fully up to his character, he wore flowing robes of blue velvet, embroidered with gold, and his princely jewelled coronet. The titular King of Oude is probably the only monarch in the world who wears such antiquated head-gear as this. Doubtless, however, it is a pleasing reminder .of the palmy state from which he has "fallen, fallen, fallen." The prince, in a most amiable and communicative temper, con- ducted us through the extensive flower-gardens, immense mena- **-<»% i'.pl f R* ! i geno8, as gine, liavi animals c liiigc boa skilfully ( the groun and at pic white fan; sac in wL of-j)aradis( as doinest: one liundi any tenan rilims are inhabitant mensG gre banai.as, a den of an i two hundi munificent is graceless The viq relaxation oany of la< KING OF OUDE'S MENAGEKIE. ',m <i;erics, as well as aviaries and aquariums, neither of which, we ima- gine, have their equal in any part of the world. An account of the animals exhibited would bo little less than a " catalogue." We saw huge boa-constrictors sleeping in their cages. The snake-charmer slcilfully drew the cobra de eapello from its prison, stretched it on the ground, and then with great dexterity seized it by the throat, and at pleasure made it open its mouth and show the strong, sharp, white fang, whose stroke is instant death, and beneath it the smnll sac in which the fatal venom is secreted. The ostrich, the bird- of-j)aradi8e, the pelican, the flamingo, the eagle, and the swan, are as domesticated as if they had known no other home. We counted one hundred species of the pigeon, nor can we recall the name of any tenant of the air which is not represented there. The aqua- riums are lakes, each covering an acre, and ten feet deep. Their inhabitants of all kinds came to be fed from our hands. An im- mense green tortoise was tempted to the shore by a bunch of bananas, and walked back seeming not at all oppressed by the bur- den of an attendant, who stood on his back, and who weighs nearly two hundred pounds. The English people here tell us that the munificent King of Oude is treacherous, and that his handsome son is graceless. But when has conqueror confided in his prisoner? The viceroy has gone into the country for his customary weekly relaxation of boar-hunting. We drive with Lady Mayo and a com- oany of ladies and gentlemen, this evening, to Barrackpore. i 1 CHAPTER V. BARRACKPORE AND SERAMPORE. ^ -1'5 •'3 li I' lit Barruc-kporc Park and its Beauties. — Magnificent Trees. — The Menagerie. — The Liou- Whelps. — Serampore. — Its Mis.*ionaries and Mission-Schools. — Return from Bar rackpore. — Fort William. — The Woman's Union Missionary Society and its Schools BarracTcpore Park, March 12^A. — This viceregal country resi (ience stands on a curve of the Hoogly, sixteen miles north of Cal cutta. Besides the palace, there is also a large military station. On tlie opposite bank of the river is Sercmpore, originally a Danisli possession, but now I'ritish, and incoi*porated with Barrackpore. It is a relief to escape for a day from the sights and excitements of the capital. Vegetation is so luxuriant in India that wild beasts maintain their natural liberty in the midst of tJie densest luiinau population. Jus. s the morning dawned the shrieks of these vicious beasts ceised, and the notes of the whippoorwill came in their place, as distinct and as piteous as when heard on the banks of the Potomac. But we are before our story. The hall in whicli we were received last night was far more magnificent than any we had ever before entered. Its circumference one thousand feet, its tioor a green lawn, its roof the dfense, dark fern-like foliage of the banyan-tree, its brown columns and arches, the trunks which have grown from the tendrils that dropped from the parent tree, and took root in the ground. Only Virgil could celebrate so magnifi- cent a shade : "Tityre tu patulas recubans sub tegmine fagi." SEIiAMPOIiK MISSIONS. 31)9 Of course, there is a menagerie, though it is ii sinall one, at- tdc'hcd to the palace. The Jk'ngal tiger, the noblest of the feline nu!o, is shown here with special pride. We saw a superb fellow, which, now fully grown and (juite siivage, was one year ago a pet kitten in the nursery. Wo have renewed here the pleasant ac- (juuiutances which we formed with the lion-whelps who were our tbllow-passengers on the Australian. They are very restless in dioir new quarters. We find a novelty far more interesting than the menagerie. It is a troop of wild jackals, which make the "night hideous" witli their bowlings. Fur hours, we thought that the noise they made was that of an insurrection or a riot. On the invitation of the editor of Tlic Friend of India^ we crossed the river this morning and visited Serampore. It is well known in the United States as the place where the three devoted missionaries, Marshman, Carey, and Ward, founded the first Ameri- can mission in India. They chose the site because it was then aiulcr the friendly flag of Denmark, while the regulations of the British East India Company forbade Christian missions within its jurisdiction. Serampore is also the scene of the first labors of the pious and indefatigable Judson. The scientific institutions as well as the press and libraries which the earnest men, whom we have mentioned, established, are still fleurishing, while the very air of the quaint place seems redolent of their memories. After a pleas- ant collation, we examined theso institutions. The missionaries educate one hundred and fifty children here in reading, writing, and arithmetic ; and fifty more up to the qualifications for admis- sion into the University of Calcutta. Mr. Seward asked what became of the youths who are thus educated ? The missionaries answered that "the highest ambition of a Hindoo youth is a place in which he can wear a ' pen behind his ear.' " The young nieu secure the small places under the Government which are open to natives. Very few of them become or remain Christians. March 13^^. — We returned from Barrackpore this morning, with Lady Mayo and a party of twelve, in the " drag," drawn by six horses, directed by their postilions, and attended by a mounted I 4()0 BRITISH INDLV. M I • 4 I If <!' (I II il escort. The roads were fine, the morning exhilarating. Wp passed an elephant bearing a load of hay, the first of those animals we have seen in service. Mr. Seward passed the morning in a survey of P'ort AVilliam. Built as a defence for the first British factory in Calcutta, and identified with all the great events in the history of the conquest, it still gives the ofiicial name to the seat ai the government. But Fort William, and all that Mr. Seward saw- in it, belongs to the past. In his absence the ladies enjoyed the pleasure oY studying a more modern and useful institution. It is the proud distinction of the United States that our coun- trywomen have designed and brought into execution a practical plan for the amelioration of society in India. Caste, in that coun- try, has its moral and civil as well as its theological code. Its lawn are paramount to all laws and all institutions of government. l{ may be said of caste, just as truly as it was said of the laws ot Moses, that " the letter killcth, the spirit giveth life." Caste hin- dered and defeated two attempted reformations in India before the country became known to Europeans — Buddhism and Mohanuiu- danism. It is caste, the "letter" of the Hindoo law, that hiudors Christianity) and seems to render the introduction of all Western civilization impossible. Caste lias effected all tliese evils and jicr- j)etuates them tluough the degradation of women. Christiaiiitv and Western civilization can only be established through the res- toration of woman here as elsewhere to her just and lawful sphere. This restoration is just what "the Woman's Union Missionaiv Society of America for Heathen Lands" is doing through the iiisti- tutioi thev have established at Calcutta and its branches in the provinces, called the "Zenana Mission." We accompanied Miss lirittan, the superintendent of this institution, in her visitation of many of the zenanas, to which, by her unremitting zeal, assidiiily. and gentleness, she has gained access. These families were !;(>n- erally rich, like that of the baboo, which we have described. S(»!nf of them, however, are M'retched and squalid. Even in these, tlic women, like those in the rich zenanas, are timid, gentle, lovin<; creatures, and all alike are painfidly desirous of instruction, 'riie institution employs in Calcutta twelve American women as teacli- BARRACKPOKK. 401 :liose luiimals noniiiig in a i first lii'itisli events in the to the seat of r, Seward saw 3 enjoyed the ition. hat our coun- on a practical in that c'o\in- ode. Its laws vcrnnient. It )f the laws of !." Caste hin- idia before tlio ,nd Mohaniiiu- V, that hinders of all West(!ni evils and ])cr- . Christianity rou>2;h the res- lawful sphere. ion Mission;! IT •on<>;h the insti- )ranehes in the ompanied Miss ler visitation of zeal, assiduity. ilies were '^m- scribed. Somr >n in these, tlic , n;ontle, loviiii' struction. 'flit' iroincn as teach- ers. Th(!y have already instructed sixty native women, who have become assistant teachers. They have durin<^ the same time estab- lished an asylum where they support and train twenty additional irirls for teachers. Miss Brlttan counts seven hundred and fifty unlive women, who have been taught and (pialitied to become the wives of Hindoo youths who are prepared for official employment in the universities and schools established by the Government. It ia pleasant to record that tliis noblest of charities enjoys the entire conlidence and favor of Earl Mayo.' ' \Vc found on our return to the United States that tlie " Woman's Union Missionary Soi'icty of America'' had fully adopted the idea of tlie iinportuuce of conuot ting Die knowledge of medicine witli the qualiticiitiou of teacher. II UiUAUIU'UIUi. CHAPTER YL U 1 ■SB •. « .> t • ;. , •« > * ' i • II il it iJ7?0.¥ CALCUTTA TO BENARES. CoTirtesy of the East India Railway Company. — Unattractive Scenery. — The Sooner' improves. — Aspect of the (Country and the People. — A stop at Patna. — A Tiger Hunter. — The Cultivation of tlic Poppy. — The Maharajah of Benares. — A Night on the Ganges. — A Brilli.int Display. — Glory Hallelujah. — A Compliment to Mr Seward. Benares^ March loth. — We left Government House, Calcutta, on the 13tli, in the evenincf, and, with the aid of friends, made our way throuj^h a mixed and c:arrulous crowd which gathered at the wharf. We crossed the Hoogly in a capacious steam ferry- boat, and took possession of a car which had been furnisliod iis. by tlie East India Railway Company, for our exclusive use while in the country. We attach it to, or detach it from, the train ;it our pleasure. It consists of two apartments, with a bath-room, Our Cal(!utta friends furnisliod as with a full supply of Boston i(o. The niglit wa.s dark. When we awoke in the niorniu}^. w; looked out upon an unattractive plain, broken by ledges of nuk.'-. The road was bordered with shallow tanks, filled with nmddy watt r collected during the last rainy season, and frequent brick-kilns hiiilt to supply the material for the railway structures. An occa^i()rlill herd of small lean cattle, sheep, and goats, with a tattered or iiiiked attendant, was seen upon the scanty soil nearly covered witli stunted trees and shrubs. A few mean farm-houses and wnitchod villages were visible. We thought India a sorry contrast to Jiipnii BEAUTY OF THE COUNTRY. 403 nnd Java, and even less cheerful than the sandy plain of the dismal Pci-ho. Refcrrin;^ to the map, we found that we were a hundred iniles south of the Ganges, and that the dreary region wc were traversing is a spur of the mountain-border of the great river-basin. Scarcely had we time to express our surprise at the uninviting aspect of the country before the rocky ledges and stunted vegeta- tion gave way to scenes of fertility and beauty — which continued without interruption during the day. Endless fields, some yellow with ripening rice, some white with the strewed leaves of the poppy, and some green with growing wheat, millet, and other cereals, alternate with orchards of bananas, tamarinds, and man- goes — the latter trees just now blooming and filling the air with a perfume sweet as that of the acacia. The plantations are divided by hedges of richly-flowering cactus. In other fields arc large herds of cattle, and goats, and flocks of sheep, all fiit and sleek, and ranging under cocoa-nut trees, scattered through the landscape like the oaks in Kentucky and California. The palma-Christi, a hardy, graceful shrub, needing little irrigation, grows luxuriantly. The flower-stalk of the "century-plant" has already reached the height of ten feet, and is preparing to spread its gorgeous petals in May. As we approached, we saw, in the midst of this luxuriance, which surpasses that of the prairies of Java, winding rows oi' wil- lows, and occasionally a mast towering over them. Another curve revealed to us the Ganges. The groups of slender men and children whom we passed by the roadside and in the fields Avcre gayly and gracefully attired. So also were the few women whom we saw. They had a great profusion of silver ornaments, ear-rings, nose-rings, bracelets and bangles. All Nature seemed to feel new animation and dis])lay fresh beauty in the presence of the Ganges. Green ])arrots witli yellow- and-red heads perch on the telegraph-wirer, as swallows and martins do in our own country ; flocks of flamingoes make a. rose- ate cloud as they fly over our heads ; the solcnm stork and the stately m'jutant march in regiments through the coprtcs and pre- serves around us. We made one stop, during the day, at Patna. It is a large and 404 DRITISU INDIA. n 1*^ X « (SI .J' •■■ '' I.; 11 it «• It ti t: nil old Hindoo city, memorable in tlie history of British conquest as the scene of the perfidious covenant of the "Three Souls;" that inlamous transaction which aroused the people of England from tlioir criminal lethargy to n contemplation of the atrocities practised by the East India Company. While there, we made a survey of the eighteen cars which constituted our railway-train. Only one of these was devoted to Europeans, the others were fully freighted with natives ; never less than thirty, sometimes fifty, crowded into a car. We met there our countryman Mr. Eldridge, who was just returning to Calcutta from a famous tiger-hunt in the north, in which he shot a tiger which had already laid hold of tlie haunch of the elephant he was riding. Patna, like all the towns and villaprcs oil our road, shows a division of the population between the faith of the J3ramins and that of the Arabian prophet. The Hindoo temple, although it has a greater number of worshippers, is alwavs eclipsed in magnificence by the mosque. The government ofiicci, charged with the superintendeiun; of the opium-production, called upon us at Patna. The opium-jjoppy boars a smah white flower instead of the large bright petals known in our gardens. Tlie manufacture is simple : early in the morning', an attendant (usually a v/oman) goes through the poppy-field, strik- h.'r each capsule with an instrument of many blades like a cu])piiijr. Knife — the milky-juice exudes, dries, and blackens, under the biini- iiig heat of the sun ; it is gathered in the evening by scraping tho plant with a knife. It is already opium. The narcotic stronp^tli of the juice varies in dilfcrent plants — owing to a dilTei'ciioe in the vigor of the ])lant, or to the circumstances favorable or unfavorable to the extraction of tlie juice. Some plants yield only fifty per cent, of the drug; other?, eighty or ninety per cent. The weak and the strong products are mixed so as to obtain a uni- form strength of seventy-five ])er cent. The licpiid which remain^ after the mixture is made is again exposed to the sun. When the mass, thus mi.xed, has obtained a consistency for manipulation, it U divided into small portions, each of which is enclosed in a sinijle mango-ionf. It is then rolled by hand until the leaf is entii'ily in- •i',>r»;onitrfl into the mass, and tho opium comes out dry in tho MAHARAJAH OF BE N^ ARES. 405 itisli conquest 3 Seals ; " that Englaiid from cities practised do a survey of in. Only one fully freighted ', crowded into >, who was just 1 tlie north, in :' the ha\ui('h of ms and villaj2;cs tween the faitli ,. The Iliiuloo ippers, is ahvays erintendenoc of he opiuni-])oppy lit petals kiiowii in the nioruiin:. oppy-iield, strik- like a cu])pin:;- under the burn- by scrapiiiii' tlio arcotic strength a dilTereiioe in >s favorabUi ov iiK^ phmts yield ninety per cent. to obtain a nni- d which remain' sun. When the anipiihition, it i^ osed in a single ;af is entirely in- out dry in th.' shape of a round ball. One acre of poppy yields live pounds of the opium of commerce. We saw indigo-fields on every side, but the season for the culti- vation of that ])lant is past. Arriving at the station, Mogul iSerai, on the south bank of the Ganges, we M-ere met by the government connnissioner of the dis- trict of Benares. lie was charged by the ]\Iaharajah of Benares to MAHARAJAH OP BF.NAREH. invite us to an entertainment on the river in honor of the festival cdled "the Holy," which, after having been continued for several diiys, was to come to a close that night,, A continuous railroad- journey of twenty -two hours, fatiguing everywhere, is doubly severe here ; but how could we decline a comjdiment from so high a native source, or how forego an occasiou so novel and interesting I as a night on the Ganges \ Two officers of the prince's household, bearing silver maces six feet long, with twenty servants in scarlet [and white, met us on the river-bank and placed us in cushioned 27 A 406 BRITISH INDIA. Si*"" 2S ■*' 5^ • •ft' 1« k \i H IS It chairs, under a gay canopy, on the deck of a graceful yacht. "We floated leisurely dowuM'ard with the current. The first part of the voyage had no special interest. The night was dark, and the dim lights around us gave us only spectral glimpses of the terracecl banks. AVhen, however, we had advanced a mile, we saw, on our right, at the river's edge, the blazing, crackling flames of scemiiif bonfires. The portion of the banks thus illuminated seemed to rise to the height of a hundred feet, and were thickly crowded with massive structures ; and, over all these, the gleaming dome and minarets of Aurengzcbe, the great mosque of the city. What Mas our surprise to find that the fires, which we had supposed kindled for a temporary' illumination, were funeral-fires ! Ghauts are buih on the banks for the sole purpose of cremation. The spectacle turned our thoughts, for the moment, upon the strange process of disposing of the remains of the dead. "What," we inquired, "is dont vith the ashes which remain from the fires ? " " They scatter them on the bosom of the sacred river." At this point we entered a crowd of brilliantly-illuminated and gayly-decorated barges, so dense that it was not without diffienltv that we made our way through it to the station assigned us, near the maharajah's barge, from which a calcium-light fiashed an in- tense and dazzling splendor over the entire city. On either side of this magnificent barge was another one, equally gorgeous ; the one containing the Maharajah of Visianagram, the other, the Maharajah of Puttceala. These dignitaries were guests. The barges of the three princes were lashed together, and a grand Oriental pavilion extended over them. All the optical effect that can be obtained by fanciful naval designs, brilliant light, and variegated draporv. by moving crowds and splendid costumes, reflected by mirror?, crystals, and gold, was produced here ; while the senses were rav- ished by the perfame of burning incense and tropical flowers. Though dazzled by cross-lights, and bewildered by the indescriha- ble glitter, we passed, under safe guidance, from our own barac to that of the Maharajah of Benares. Under the same conduct w passed through successive chambers, each varying in enchantment from the others, until we reached the curtained and festooned cen- GLORY HALLELUJAH. 407 Eul yaclit. We first part of the rk, and the dim of the terraced we saw, on our Lines of seeming lated seemed to ly crowded with tiling dome and city. Whiit was supposed kindled Ghauts are built . The spectacle ;rangc process of we inquired, "is " " Tliey scatter tral saloon, appropriated to guests. Here rose- water and ncroli cmshed over us from silver and crystal fountains ; champagne and sherbets sparkled in golden vases ; buft'ets groaned with the weigiit of fruits, confectionery, and ices; while beautiful nautch girls in gauzy attire performed their most sacred and celebrated songs and dances to their strange music. It may be imagined we were filled with emotion, when, in an interval of this elaborate Asiatic exhibition, the solemn measure ot " Glory Hallelujah " from a full European orchestra burst upon our ears. The performance of this great marching-anthem of the Union army in the late war was a thoughtful recognition, on the part of the maharajah, of Mr. Seward's presence. We took leave of our princely entertainers at twelve o'clock, leaving the pageant of the Ganges to go on during the whole night for the enjoyment of those who, unlike ourselves, had strength enough to endure it. lY-illuminated and without difficnltv assigned us, near ht flashed an in- On either side of •orgcous ; the one ler, the Mahavajali he bavgcs of the Oriental pavilion can be obtained xriegatcd drapevy. ectcd by mirror., ,e senses were rav- I tropical flowers. by the indcscrih:!- our own har.a'C to same comluct \ve g in enchantment and festooned cen- NAUTCU OIBLS. , 3, if; CHAPTER yil. BENARES. I* « > I IB I* nav a *:• J. *I 11 11 Ml The Sacred City of the Hindoos. — The Cradle of Buddhism. — Sarnath. — Remarkable Towers. — The Holy River. — The Ghauts. — Singular Architecture. — The Mosquas and their Minarets. — A Picturesque Scene on the River-Bank. — Siva and Doorga.— Manufacture of Idols. — Kincob. — Magnificence of Benares. March ICitJi. — Our experience here in the sacred city ol the Hindoos is like that of the visitor at Jerusalem. There he expects to find most prominent the monuments of the Jews. Here ^ve expect to find most prominent the monuments of the Hindoos. At Jerusalem, the monument which first attracts attention is not the Temple of Solomon, but the Mosque of Omar ; and here, the object which first attracts our attention is not a temple of Vishnu, but, Sarnath, a suburb of the city, the cradle of Buddhism. Buddha, according to the traditions, was a prince. He renounced royal state, wealth, family, friends, every thing, and repaired to Sarnath, Here in seclusion, and in the practice of severest asceticism, he con- tinued through five years ; and it resulted in his conviction that he had become perfectly incarnate of the Supreme God ; perfectly puri- fied ; the delegated savior of his nation i<nd of mankind. Here, his teachings began nearly twenty-four hundred years ago ; hence, according to the faith of his disciples, the light of divine truth, which he dispenses, has radiated through the East, until it has ex- erted its saving influence over one-fourth of the human race, and it is to continue to radiate until it shall pervade the earth. But tlie fortunes of Buddhism in the region where it originated havt- Qot Sarnath. — Remarkable ccturc. — The Mosciius :. — Siva and Doorca.— icrod city of the There lie expects Jews. Here we the Hindoos. At tention is not the id here, the object e of Vishnu, but, idhisui. Buddha, renounced royal )aired to Sarnath. asceticism, he con- conviction that he od ; perfectly puri- mankind. Here, years ago ; lience, t of divine truth, St, until it has ex- luiman race, and it 10 earth. But the riffinatcd have- aot (0 H < U X en w CQ 410 BRITISH INDIA. been unlike those of Christianity. While the Christian relinion is extended to the ends of the earth, a foreign and hated worship prevails in Palestine. So, while Buddha remains incarnate, not in Sarnath, but in Thibet, and thence dispenses the divine tnith throughout the vast regions of Tartary, China and Japan, (Y'vldn and the Oriental Archipelago, his system has scarcely a foothuld in the province where it originated. Sarnath is eight miles distant from Benares. The largo plain, strewed with ruins, is the resort !: « Mi T» il«B <* ** I* in « tn ■■'.'rSi-t f---s'V*^">g-V '- OBEAT BUDDHIST TOWEB AT SABNATU. ill : it in II It: of innumerable bands of pilgrims, who cover its broken shrines with garlands, and bedew its sands with tears. We tried, quite ineffectually, to learn the history of the only two monuments wliicli retain something of their ancient shape and original proportions, One of these is a conical tower, which rises in the centre of a well- defined area, two-thirds of a mile in circuit. The tower has a circumference of ninety-two feet at the base, and rises to a heigbt of one hundred and ten feet. What is extraordinary is, that tin's BUDDHIST TOWER OF SARNATII. Tl\ vast tower is solid, without chambers or internal passages, except a low, subterranean one. It has a basement-story, twenty feet high, of Bolid brick, ten feet of whicli is below the level of the plain. Upon this basement is a story, forty feet high, of chiselled Chunar stone. With the exception of the live upper layers, this story is a solid mass, each individual block being fastened to the one adjoin- in"' it by iron clamps. The part of the tower which is above the stone story, last mentioned, is built entirely of large bricks. Origi- nally, it had a veneering or outer covering, but it is difficult to ascertain whether it was of stone, stucco, or cement. The apex of the structure, ten feet in diameter, bears some traces of a statue surmounted by an umbrella. The large stone story has eight pro- jecting faces, divided from each othsr by a panel fifteen feet wide. Each projecting face has a large, deep niche, from which some life- ^^ 13 i CABVING ON BUDDHIST TOWKB AT SARNATU. size statue has long sin'^e disappf ared. Imagination replaces these with the figure of Buddha ana his disciples, as we saw them so often in China and Japan, wit 'a hands raised before their breasts, 41z BRITISH INDIA. m IMS • *» Kin 4^ • i" lata heads bent forward, and gazing at the soles of their feet. Several of these projecting faces are finely ornamented with wreaths df lotus — sometinies the plant winds as a vine with birds and dimin- utive human figures resting on its tendrils. In some places, it shows the tender leaf and bud ; in others, the open fiower of the lotus. The carving of some of these wreaths is unfinished — an In- dication that the great structure was never completed. We cmi- eluded that this curious tower was projected and raised as a monu- ment of Buddha's reform, but abandoned before completion, wlien the religion was expelled from the country. We have alluded to another ruin — this is a solid, circular brick mound, seventy-tour feet high, with an octagonal cupola twenty-four feet high. Tlie cupola has its history, but not the mound. The former bears an inscription which recites that the sovereign of the country as- cended the mound in the year 51. March 17 ih. — We have to-day viewed Benares, not, as on our first night, under an artificial illumination, but under the light or' an equinoctial sun. We passed down the river in the same yacht which floated us at the grand festival. Long before John baptized in the Jordan, the Asiatics had con- ceived the beautiful idea that certain rivers are holy, and that their waters have the power of " cleansing from all sin." The Ganges is, as it always has been, that river of the Hindoos. They must come hither as pilgrims from the most distant regions, at least once in a lifetime, and even once a year, if they can. They come here, moreover, if they can, to die ; because, to die in the holy city, secures a direct entrance into paradise. Native princes, successful baboos, and rich zemindars, please the Bramin priests and the peo- ple, and think also that they please the gods, by erecting majestic temples and buildings, costly marble ghauts for the use of the pil- grims as well as burning ghauts. To reach these ghauts, the high, steep banks of the river, for miles in length, are terraced with per- fect stone steps. The temples rise to the height of five, six, seven, eight, nine stories. They are built of marble and freestone, pierced with windows of every conceivable graceful shape, and are A riCTUUESQUE SCENE. 413 feet. Scvornl .th wreaths of •ds and dimin- some places, it I flower of the inished — an in- jtcd. We con- ised as a monu- mplction, wlien have alluded to id, seventy-four 'eet high, Tlie former bears an the country as- , not, as on our der the light of the same yacht Asiatics had oon- y, and that their The Ganges They must ins, at least once They come n the holy city, inces, successful ists and the |)eo- recting majestic e use of the pil- rhauts, the high, •raced with per- five, six, seven, and freestone, d shape, and are OS extravagantly ornamented with colonnades, corridors, balconies, niches, large and small domes, towers, pavilions, and pinnacles, which are set off with gilding and bright colors. The moscpie, witii its tapering minarets, occasionally interjected among the tem- ples, lends a pleasing relief to the Hindoo architecture, while its severe form and outlines seem to reprove the prolific imagination of the Hindoos. A highly-picturesque scene presented itself on the river-bank. Citizens, pilgrims, men, women, and children — singly, in groups, and in throngs — are ascending and descending the stair- eases, bearing on their heads bronze urns and vases, large and small, of ibrins as graceful as the Etruscan. Even the stately ele- phant seems to have adopted the mystic faith, for we saw him many- times walk down the staircase, which had been nicely adapted to the human footstep, fill his trunk, and solemnly return. Pilgrims were plunging into the water from platforms and boats and barges of fanciful construction, some in the shape of peacocks, swans, and fishes. All the devotees dress in snow-white robes as they leave the water, to -ive effect to the idea that immersion purifies. The funeral-fires of the previous night are still blazing. How can they be extinguished? All that are in the city must die, and all that die are brought here. Having passed the entire river-front in the yacht, we dismissed it and returned through the streets of the city. They are close and narrow, but well paved, and, compared with the Chinese cities, excepting Canton, they are clean. The chief temple is that of Siva, the representative of the principle of destruction aiid reproduction. The dome and the towers are of burnished jrokl. Siv^a is the same round, black stone set in the floor as at Calcutta. Far greater reverence is paid to him here. Access and ogress are made almost impossible by the multitude of pilgrims and votaries, who come into the temples laden with perfumes, fruits, tlowers, and urns of holy water. Priests receive these oblations and appropriate them as perquisites, nor did the holy men disdain to receive some bright silver rupees from our unworthy and pro- fane hands. Three small, gentle, and very pretty sacred white cows, with wreaths of orange-flowers and roses around their necks, wander at pleasure in the holiest recesses of the temple, among <» eta |9» m »* « •( It <» lii^ It It; If* KINCOB BROCADE. 41i the worshippers, who feed them with rose-leaves and lotus- flowers. But what a poor apology for human devotion is that of Siva compared with the exhibition of that sentiment which is presented to Doorga ! At the temple of the former it is a black stone that is lionored ; at that of the Doorga it is the living, moving animal crea- tion, the monkey. Moreover, these monkeys seem to appreciate their celestial privileges and honors. They are of all sorts and sizes. We saw them by rlie thousand gambolling in the courts, "racing and chasing" through the corridors, and mischievously laughing upon the worshippers below from columns and cornices, from balustrades and balconies. Edifices of all sorts, even the dwelling-houses, are stupendous and massive. The basements are used for mechanics and other tenants of low degree. The upper stories, guarded by bars and screens, are the gorgeous zenanas ; fit fiimily dwellings for a people who, unanimously thinking that the virtue of woman can only be secured by her imprisonment, magnanimously try to relieve that durance by extravagant indulgences of luxury and ostentation. The shops are seldom more than eight feet square. The articles made are chiefly ornaments and religious tokens. As, in ancient Ephesus, the people principally supported themselves by making images of Diana, so the people of Benares largely support them- selves by the manufacture of idols — idols great, idols small, idols white, idols black, idols red, idols yellow, idols of bronze, iron, wood, stone, porcelain, and glass. AVe visited the warehouse of the Mncob — a brocade, the most exquisite of fibrous fabrics ; its materials, the richest of silk and the purest of gold, worn by the native princes, bnboos, and zemin- dars, woven in patterns five yards long and one yard wide. A pattern never costs less than three hundred dollars. The merchant displays in a book the names of a few English ladies as customers, but their purchases were very small. Is it not strange that the na- tive rulers of India, after disasters which have deprived them of their independence and universally impoverished if not ruined them, continue to dress in costumes which no Western state of wealth 416 BRITISH INDIA. !" m .• dn in* can command ? The merchant in the East, eveiywhere, is amiable and polite. The vendor of kincob received us, who merely came to look at his wares, with bouquets and garlands when we came, and showered us with rose-water when we departed. Superstition counts the population of Benares by the million, and its sacred edifices by the thousand. The real population is one hundred and fifty thousand, and it contains between three and four hundred temples. So much of the history of Benares as we have not related was sublimely spoken, by Burke in his account of the cruelty of Warren Hastings to the Maharajah Cheyte Sing, ances- tor of our host. What we have left unsaid of the incomparable magnificence of the city is told by Macaulay in his essay on War- ren Hastings. THUl'LES AT UUNARES. ere, is amiable merely came a we came, and by the million, )pulatioii is one . three and fonr ires as we have account of the i^te Sing, ances- e incomparable 5 essay on War- QUEEN'S COLLEGE, BENARES. CHAPTER YIII. « •ft!*' m • I* « It I as I f ^^ till In* ALLAHABAD, LUCKNOW, AND AGRA. Allahabad, the City of God, — Cawnporc— Lucknow, th^ Capital of Oude. — Extent of the Country. — Arrival at Agra, — A Marvellous Monument of Arms, Arts, and Empite,— Akbar the Great. — His Vast Architectural Works. — The Pearl Mosque. — Futteliporo Sikra.— Its Great Wall.— The Tomb of Sheik Selim Chishti.— The Panch Mahal.— Ak bar's Tomb. — His Wealth. — His Horses and his Elephants. — Weighing his Presents. March ISith. — Allahabad (the city of God), once a Molmmino dan town, has now relapsed to the religion of Bramah. It stands on the Juinna, just above its confluence with the Ganges. It de- rives its present importance from its being the place of junction for the railroads of Northern India with the main eastern and western line, which connects Bombay and Calcutta. The railroad bridge across the Jumna is celebrated throughout the world. Allahabad is a large military station, and the capital of the northwestern provinces. It has a public garden, which receives a picturesque effect from two massive Mohammedan tombs or imambarras. We were met at the station, at ten o'cloclc last night, bv an officer, and conducted to Government House, the residence of the governor. Sir William Muir. This spacious and elegant structure was illuminated for a concert. Hospitality attended with less ostentation, or a mors sympathetic kindness, wc have never known. Sir William and Lady Muir not only believe in works of education, but they are patrons of the '" Woman's Union Society of America." A sudden indisposition prevented Mr. Seward's attendance at a dinner made for him by the United CAWNrORE AND LUCKXOV/. 419 Military and Civil Service Club of the Nortliwostern Provinces, and the zealous Ameiican mip'iionaries residing here. Cawnvore, 2farch ^Qth. — Lady Muir accompanied ns to our ear at one o'clock this morning. We rode through ripening wheat- fields, and reached the town on the south side of the Ganges at sunrise. We write these notes while crossing that river on a pon- toon bridge, a form especially adapted to rivers like this, which are subject to immense freshets and floods. )ucle. — Extent of the Arts, and Empiic— Vlosqiie. — Futtehpore e Panch Mahal.— Ak eighing bis Piesonts. ce a Mohamme mah. It stand* mges. It de- e of junction for em and western railroad bridge »rld. Allahabad le northwestern es a picturesque amharras. last night, by I, the residence ous and elegant vitality attended ndncss, wc have only believe in Woman's Unicn prevented Mr. by the United Lucknow, March VlsI. — We came forty miles to this city, the capital of the once independent but now nominal kingdom of Oude, over a branch of tho East India Railway, and through the valley of the Goomty, a tributary of the Ganges. The soil, often and severely swept by deluges, is poor. We are guests here of General Barrow, now Commissioner (that is to say, Lieutenant- Governor) of Oude. With an area half as large as that of the State of Xew York, Oude has a population of three millions. Its ancient RE8IDE.N0Y AT LUf'KNOW, 420 BRITISH INDIA. 10 • .a. I* ■ 1 «l 4 Ml ;tl>«> Mogul capital, which in our maps bears the name of Oudc, is now called Fyzabad. Lucknow has enjoyed that distinction one hun- dred and twenty years, and now contains half a million oi inhali- itants. It is doubtless true that Great Britain owes her em]nrc in India more to the dissension of its native rulers than to the foice of arms. We have already seen enough of the country to know that the causes of those dissensions were, like the divisions aniono' our aboriginal tribes, deep and lasting. Tlie Bramin religion, where it was universal, had no effect to produce unity among tlie tribal communities dispersed over vast territory, and rendered irreconcilable by diversity of climate^ race, and language. Tlie Tartars or Scythians, border nations on the North, continually in- truded, producing alienation between the Hindoo communitio?, while the conquering Mohammedans, by an arrogant rule, op- pressed and crushed the natives. Agra, March 2M. — Leaving the Ganges at Ca.vnporo, we came, by the East India Railway, to Toondla junction, and thence, over a branch, to Agra, on the Jumna, one hundred and thirty miles nortli- west from Allahabad. Some hills, which we crossed, are without irrigation and barren, but the co.mtry generally wears the same as- pect as the plain of the Ganges, The irrigated wheat-fields yield sixteen bushels to the acre. The population is four hundred to a square mii;\ They have no modern agricultural implements or machinery. Deficient in industry as in energy, they sit on the ground when they use the sickle. That they are liumane is seen in the largo privileges they yield to the gleaners. When we came to Benares, the gentleman who met us there said, "We are glad that you came here before going to Agra." " You do well," said General Barrow, " to see Lucknow before going to Agra." Both were right. Benares, although unique and grand, now seems to us as merely an embodiment of an inactive sentiment of mystic devo- tion. Lucknow is the fnnciful ca])ital of an ephemeral jdngdoni. Agra, though ruined, is a marvellous monument of arms, arts, and empire. During a period of one hundred and fifty years., and AGRA. 421 until the reign of Akbar, the successors of Tamerlane made little ijrogress in consolidating their empire in India. That monarch, the greatest, wisest, and best of them all, enlarged it from three provinces to fifteen, and founded the capital at Agra, which soon irrcw into a magnilicent city of half a million. His successors, per- haps wisely, perhaps necessarily, removed the Mogul throne to Delhi ; and Agra, experiencing no subseipient renovation in the casualties of war and concpiest, has shrunk into a provincial town of a quarter of its former population. There are three monuments liere and in the vicinity which are the work of Akbar : the fort of Aiijra, Futtehpore Sikra, and Secundra. These, together Avith the famous Taj-Mahal, constitute the traveller's study here. The fort, which has an ample moat and drawbridge, is a mile and a half in eircnit, built entirely of red sandstone, and measures, from the foun- dation to the embrasured battlements, seventy-two feet. It seems to have been designed quite as much for civil use as for defence. It now contains a British arsenal. Its area was filled with palatial structures, of which two remain in a state of imperfect preservation, the Imperial Palace and the Pearl Mosque. The substructions of the palace are red sandstone, but nearly all of its porticos, courts, corridors, chambers, and pavilions, are of polished white marble. The walls of the balcony, which overhangs the Jumna, are finely inlaid inside and outride with mosaics, which combine jasper, agate, earnelian, bloodstone, lapis-lazuli, and malachite. The balcony is guarded with balustrades of delicate marble fretwork. The apart- ments of the zenana are extensive and of exquisite finish. They look down upon what was once a garden. The fountains, which threw fanciful jets into bathing-rooms, are broken up, but the vaulted roofs of marble tracery still remain filled with the thou- sands of miniature prismatic mirrors. The Divan, in Oriental speech called the " Judgment-seat of Akbar," is a grand open por- tico, with Saracenic roof and arches, resting on three rows of col- umns. In its centre is & marble throne, inlaid, like the pavilion which covers it, with mosaic wreaths and texts from the Koran, composed of jasper and earnelian. A tablet, in the wall behind the throne, bears the inscription "Ain Akbaree" (the Laws of 28 I t •» .1 4 « .1 1» •*. * I*. a. ' - Hi 11! I II • Ui m,. •^ M'/i M-^^ EXTERIOR OF THE FORT. small, but eludes equr acquaintaiK tance to th I'araons san carried awa THE PEARL MOSQUE. 4-^:5 Akbar). A Persian poet lias written beneath it, in his own lan- j;imge, " The Euler of the AVorld." The Motee 2£us}ifl, poetically Pearl Mosque, and the pearl of all mosques, consists of a single corridor of polislied white marble, ffith three rows of Saracenic pillars and arches, whuh support a marble dome, encircled with gilded minarets. Tlie uiuiensions are INLAID aCKEEN. TOMB OF MINA BGO0M, AQRA. small, but the symmetry is perfect, while a severe simplicity ex- cliulos equally blemish, fault, or excess. Less fortunate in official acquaintance here than elsewhere, we were unable to gain admit- tance to the storehouse in the arsenal, in which are preserved the tamons sandal- wood gates which Sultan Mahmoud of Ghuznee Ciirried away from the ancient ecclesiastical city of Somnath to 424 BltlTISII INDIA. Afghanistan, eight hnndred years ago, and which the British brought back in 1842, to please their Hindoo subjects. t if. fja. a' I m *i Mi;: lilt March 2S(l. — Futtchp(»re Sikra is twenty-two miles west of Agra. Desirous to avoid travel under a mid-day heat, we con- tracted yesterday, with the landlord, for a carriage and two horses, to leave the hotel at five o'clock this morning, with relays on the road. By dint of labor, we awakened the landlord, servant.^, and drivers, and got off at half-past six, with only one horse, and no provision for a relay. The smooth road over a level plain exhibits on all sides the ruins of mosques and palaos of the once groat capital. As this was practically our first private excursion in the country, we greatly enjoyed the novel rural Fcenes it presented. Here was the primitive Hindoo well or fountain by the roadside, from wliicli veiled maidens were filling their polished brazen urn:!, We saw even the youthful Jacob, helping a bashful Rachel to poise a pitcher on her head. The dress of the people is more strikinir, both in fashion and color, than we have before seen. Tlie crow is here in force as everywhere, but is outnumbered by the ring-dove. Adjutants and flamingos marshalled us through avenues of flower- ing acacias and mangos. Oxen, asses, and camels, in trains and loaded with cotton, obstructed the way. Futtehpore Sikra was an imperial suburb built by Akhar, and was six miles in circumference. lie enclosed the whole by a high embrasured wall of red sandstone. This fortification, with its lofty Saracenic gate, remains as if in mockery, protecting the now deso- lated theatre of imperial pomp and recreation. Our one jaded I beast gave out when we reached this gate. A native guide met us there, and we found his strong arm useful in climbing the rockn ledge under a burning sun. He led ns, by a circuitous patli over broken columns and fallen arches, into a court covered with masses oi debris. Before us rose a terrace, which we were to ascend bv| one hundred stone steps. This staircase was crowned by a Sara- cenic gate-way one hundred and twenty feet high. Ascending thel easy and yet unbroken stairway, we passed under the loftvarcli, which invites the pilgrim of every land to the tomb of Sheik I" licli the British bjects. • miles west of ly hciit, wc con- 3 and two horses, •ith relays on tlie )r(l, servants, and nc horse, and no ;vel plain exhibits )f the once great excursion in tlie nies it presented I by the roadside, ished brazen \mi. ful Rachel to poi^e } is more strildng, ;een. The crow is I by the ring dove. avenues of tlower- nels, in trains and uilt by Akbar, and he whole by a higli ation, with its lot\v ting the now deso- Our one jaded ativc guide met us climbing the rody ircuitous path over ■overed with masses were to ascend by| ;rowned by a San- jh. Ascending tlie I ider the lofty arcliJ the tomb of Slieik u w 2, w o ■J) 426 BRITISH INDIA. Selim Chishti, the religious monitor of Akbar. Here we rested a moment to examine the stupendous open doors, which, though fur. rowed by the storms of three hundred years, are still almost literallv aw "» Hi I- IB • ••• si t: '! tjt: hAliA(KNIC (iATK. covered with gilded horseshoes. The souhahdars of the empire in their pride took them from the hoofs of favorite steeds, and affixed them on the gates in token of fealty to Akbar. Passing from the gate, we stood in a court four hundred feet square, closely paveil with dark-red hewn sandstone. On the several sides of the court is a corridor fifty feet wide, with a roof resting on pillars of red sandstone fifty feet high. A central fountain lends a peculiar grace to the court. The tomb of the sheik is beyond the fountain, op- posite to the great portal, and is surmounted by a lofty, triple- FUTTEIIPORE SIKRA. 427 [ei-G we rested a licli, thougli fiir- 11 almost literallv 'S of the empii'p in steeds, and affixed Passing from tlie lare, closely paved sides of the court on pillars of red ids a peculiar grace I the fountain, op- by a lofty, triple- Joined mosque of white niarhlc. The pedestal or platform is of jas['t'r. The sareoidiagus resting on it has a canopy six feet high, and both are of unmixed motiier-of-pearl. The whole structure is lirotccted on all sides by a white marble screen, composed of panels, ei^lit feet square, of open Ulagree work, inhiid with carneliai^. It (It'tnc'ts somewhat from the character of Sheik Selim Chishti for ascetic virtue, as well as from the character of Akbar for munifi- cence, that this gorgeous tomb was built with the private assets of the saint himself, at a cost of nearly two million dollars. We climbed the roof of the corridor and looked down on a mass and medley of ruins, bounded only by the outer wall. The desolation seemed complete, except that here and there we distinguished a pavilion not entirely dilapidated, a pointed arch, a monument or a [linnac'le, which maintains its solitary position in defiance of time. We now repaired to the palace in which Akbar resided. It might with no great expense be restored. It is not one compact structure, but consists of many edifices, some quite distant from the others. Moved by a tradition which prevails here that Akbar had a Christian wife, brought from Constantinople, wo explored a suite of apartments which she is said to have occupied, expecting to find relics of her piety and devotion. But wo had no more success hero than in our inquiries for " Jessie Brown " at Lucknow. There still remain in these sumptuous apartments some fine frescos, the work evidently of Persian artists — while the walls and ceilings ex- liibit a wonderful elaboration of sculpture. It is impossible now to obtain a correct idea of the uses of the different corridors, courts, pavilions, and gate-ways which intervene between the principal structures of the palace. One of these is very curious, the Panch Mahal. It consists of five pavilions, each of which is supported by carved pillars. The several pavilions are in stories or stages, one above another, making the form of a pyramid. Another pavilion has a large suite of apartments ar- ranged in a labyrinth. Tradition says that the ladies of the harem used this part of the building for the diversion of hide-and-seek. There is a square edifice, standing quite by itself- and covered by a dome: on the outside, it appears to be of two stories ; within, how- i«iWffl(«»«w^te^^ / BPiH I i(*4 ^^i^^- "j^^^^' PIULAn IN AKBARS COUNCIL-CHAMBER. THE PANCII MAHAL. 4-^9 ever, it is open from the floor to the ceilin«^ of the doiiie. A massive carved pillar rises iii the (ientre from the floor to the ceiling. Fifteen feet from the floor is a gallery with a balustrade ciicireling the chamber. From each corner of this gallery a plat- form, Avith a like balustrade, connects horizontally with a circular gallery built around the central column. ■I I'ANfll MAMAl,. M8ER. Akbar was a contemporary of Queen Elizabeth. Tiiey assure us that he sat on the central platform and leaned against the column, which supports it, while he listened to the instructions in science, morals, and religion, of sages and saints wiiom he had summoned from all the schools aiul cloisters of the East, and who were arranged on the outer phitform around him. The broad disk of the dial by nhich the Mo^ul nu^narch measured the liours remains. There is still in good preservation the place where Akbar stood while ro- 430 BRITISH INDIA. ^- •e . m •■■:. V - m « • lit « ceiving the homage of his subjects at his levees or durlars. Xor is there wanting unequivocal evidence that the great man deUghtcd in games of chance. An open square of sixty feet has a pavement, arranged as a chess-board, in blocks of black and white marble. Instead of ivory, bronze, or wooden chess-men, the contendinjr kings, queens, knights, bishops, castles, and pawns, were beautiful slave-women, who moved as directed by the monarch or his oppo- nent. They add further that the performers themselves were the stake for which the game was played. A building known as the palace of Beerbal was assigned by Akbar to his favorite prime- minister. It remains in fine preservation, and our architects and artists might study to advantage its classic design and elaborate sculpture. If the ghost of the favorite is allowed to revisit the scene of his power, he might well exclaim, " To what base uses" has my palace " come at last ! " when he saw us, infidel republicans of the West, loitering, lunching, and lounging in his elegant ciiam- bers. \Ve pass without particular mention the so-called " Antelope Tower," one hundred feet high, studded with imitation elephantvs'' tusks, as well as the triumphal arch, guarded by colored elephants. But we must not omit to record that, excepting the tomb, mosque, and other merely ornamental structures, the entire town of Fut- tehpore Sikra was built wholly of fine freestone ; no baser material entered into the construction for the purpose of either foundation, column, wall, roof, or dome. We historically know that this palace was built in 1571, and that Akbar resided in it twelve years. AVe have no account of tlie period when its decay began, or how rajiid has been its fall into neglect and ruin. IK ! March ^^th. — If a man desires that there shall be a monument to perpetuate his memory, he does wisely, in a worldly sense, if he builds it himself. Akbar's tomb at Secundra shows that lie had this wisdom. lie extended the Mogul Empire from the Indus to the Bay of Bengal. Historians rather indicate his wealth hy anecdote than describe his habits of life. They tell us tliat his })rivate huntiiig-stud, used also for war-j)urposcs, consisted of five lurhars. Kor man delighted s a pavement, white marhle. le contending ivere beautiful 1 or his oppo- clves were tlie known as the favorite prime- architects and and elaborate to revisit the lat base uses" ilel republicans 5 elejTjant chani- lled " Antelupo ition elephants'' ored elephants, tomb, niosqiie, 3 town ot Fiit- )no ; no baser pose of cither t in 1571, and > account of the 3en its fall into be a tnonument orldly sense, if shows that he iVoni the Indus ■ his wealth hy oil us that his onsisted of five cc (fl UJ k m Q uJ > <: o 432 BlimSII INDIA. thousand elephants and ten thousand horses. We do not know whether he was the first to set the example which is said still to prevail among the princes ot the East, ot weighing his gratuities in gold against his own weight on festive occasions; it is, howevur, certain, that this monarch on one such occasion weighed a gratuity in gold against his own person, a second gratuity in silver, and a third in perfumes. «*^ Itt: l» »l •S « K '. . n rt •♦ • , « *« ! • i « ' It; nil' akuar'A tomb at rkoundua. lo not know 5 said still to i gratuities in is, however, led a gratuity silver, and a CHAPTER IX. SECUXDRA AND THE TAJ-MAHAL. The Tomb of Ak))ar. — Derivation of tlie Name of Secundra. — Tlio Taj-Malial, the Toinl) of t';o Bauoo Begum. — Der-cviption of the Taj. — The Tomb of King Cotton. — The Inferiority of Indian Cotton. — Mode of Packing it. The plain over whldi we drove, five miles to Secundra, shows some imaniharras and other less pretentious Moorish tombs, all dilapidated or in ruins. The greaj; imandjarra, here called simply the tomb of Akbar, stands on a terrace of moderate elevation, in the centre of an iunuenso garden, wliich overlooks the Jumna. The entrance to the garden is thi'ough a Saracenic gate-way, with a white marble minaret rising on either side, and towering high above the apex of the lofty arch. Besides a profusion of roses and other flowering shrubs, the garden makes a rich display of mango, orange, date, prdm, perpul, and banyan trees. The perpul, with its branches bending in the Mind and trailing on the ground, is emblematic of mourning in the East, as the willow is in the AVest. A series of oblong marble fountains, stretching doMm a terraced slope, filled with the lotus and other aquatic plants, divides into two parts the grand avenue which leads through the gate from the gar- den to the tomb. The imambarra cover.- a space of three hundred feet, u' on a platform of wdtite marble four hundred feet scpiare. It luiH five stories, each ui>pcr story being of smaller dimensions than the one beneath it. The four lower stories are built of red sand- Btone — the upper one, including floor, <lomo, and cupola, is ot I ■ I 434 BRITISH INDIA. «;: mail -"I'l •"■•4, « -.. « • •"* s I II. ! polished white marl)le. The exterior of the several stories, instead of having balustrades, is ornamented with pavilions, which, resting on graceful columns, termiiuite in gilded spires. Having reached the paved iloor of the first story, we descended an inclined plane, into a spacious, oblong, arched vault, directly nnder the centre of the edifice. Its roof rests on polished nuirble columns, the sppccs between which arc filled with chiselled marble screens. A niarblo sarcophagus within this vault contains the ashes of Akbar. The covering of the sarcophagus is ornamented with flowering-vines, and on its lid is an Arabic inscription. It is a favorite piincii)le in Oriental architecture, that each distinct part must have a rela- tive or corresponding part, called an answer. The princi])le is car- ried here to absurdity : there is a mock sarcophagus on the marble floor of the uppermost story, directly over the sarcophagus, wrought in precisely the same form as the one below. Its lid is covered with inscriptions, in raised letters, of the ninsty names of God. This imambarra is, we doubt not, the most magnificent monument which ever was raised to the memory of a eoncpieror. In 1808, it served as a barrack for a regiment of dragoons, but the Government of British India has since that time taken special care to protect it e(pially from decay and desecration. Not a stone of the noble structure has been removed or displaced. We leave the tomb of tlie great Akbar with the single re- mark that the name of the place which contains it, Secundm, is an Indian derivation from tliat of the first European invader of India, Alexander tlie Great. The name of that eoncpieror seem.s to have secured the same admiration in the East which in the "West has been so long accorded to that of Cjvsar. Although Akbar is distinguished for having built for the de- fence of his capital the unequalled fort of Agra, with itu splendid palace and its beautiful Pearl ]\rosque, and although he converted the stony ledge of Futtehporc Sikra into an architectural vision for an illustration of his reign, and although he built for himself at Secundra a monument nn)re admirable than that ot Cheops, never- theless, it remained for a descendant to raise a monument more exquisite than any of tliese — a monument, indeed, which is admit- THE TAJ-MA HAL. 435 arics, instead •liicli, rcritin;i; viug readied iclined piano, the ecutre of ns, the sppees s. A niarhle Akhar. The )W-oviug-viues, )rite piineiple t have a rela- rineii)lc is ear- on the mavl)le lagus, -Nvrou^dit lid is coverod lanies of God. ent nioninnent r. In 1808, it G Government re to protect it of the noble the single ro- t, Secundra^ \^ can invader of )r(pieror seeni.s whieh in the ilt for the de- th itu splendid he converted tural vision for for himself at Cheops, never- lonument more which is admit- ted by the whole world to be the most beautiful that the earth has ever beheld. An opinion prevails to some extent in the 'West that the Taj- Mahal is the tomb of Xourmahal, '"the Light of the Harem," in Moore's " Lalla Rookh." ]hit that is an error. " The Light of the Harem," the young iS'ourmahal, was bui'ol at Lahore. Shah Jelian, the son of Jehangeer, and grandson of Akbar, who built tlie Taj-Mahal, to be the tomb of his sultana, IJanoo Begum, was a prince of magniiicent tastes. He was also called to endure many trials and much suffering. History does not attemj)t to tell how the Danoo Begum, more than others of her sex, deserved the TAJ-MAIIAI.. ^roat distinction which she attained. Poets in the East, in their imaginative dreamings, have tried to 8U})ply this shortcoming of his- tory. They describe her as beautiful, graceful, gentle, loving, and 436 BRITISH INDIA. r r • ;. I* f IK ' ilia faitlifiil, but Inindreds, thousands, and millions, who have been as lovable as she is thus described, have passed away without nioiiii- ment, though they may have been neither " unwept, unhonored, iKir unsung." Let the natural suggestion of our own hearts furnish the solution. Whatever else Banoo Begum may have been, or niay have done, she was beautiful, she loved Shah Jchan devotedly and he loved her more than all the world beside. Tradition savs that she called her husband to her side in her last hours, and ro- • |uired him to promise her two things: First, that he -would not -narry again; and, second, that he would build her a beautiful tomb. A 'e reject the tradition, for we arc unAvilling to believe that a wo..., ill who could inspire such love as his could have doubted his Udelity, or have been concerned about her own interment. The Taj stands upon the centre of a terrace, within a walled garden of twenty-five acres, on the banks of the Jumna. At either end of the terrace is an edifice of massive sandstone, Avith a dome of the same uuiterial. Midway between these is the incompnralle Taj. As you approach, through an outer paved and walled pre- cinct, the grand gate-way comes into view. It is a majestic Sara- cenic arch, eighty feet high, springing from two abutments of red sandstone, having white marble panels, which are completely covered with texts from the Koran, inlaid in black marble, ar.d each being surmounted by a white-marble minaret. Coming under the arch, and looking through a long vista formed by rows of Ital- ian cypress-trees ])lantcd on either side of a series of crystal foun- tains, you see the Taj rising from an elevation of thirty feet above the terrace. The platform, in the middle of the terrace, is a square of four hundred feet, paved with white marble, and each cornei bears an excpiisitc white-marble minaret, two hundred feet liifrli. The Taj is a square structure of one hundred and fifty feet, reduced to an octagonal figure, with four principal faces, by having the cor- ners cut down. The four smaller faces are lower than the lari,^er ones. The entire edifice is built of polished white marble. Its Oriental dome, first swelling into a globe, tapers upward into a spire which is surmounted by a golden crescent. Four lesser domes of the same matchless form crown the truncated fagade?. THE TAJ-MAIIAL. 4;;7 At the centre of each of the four wide sides or fronts is a porch, (Oi'-isting of a single Saracenic arch, which I'ises from the j)ave- ineut two-thirds of the height of tlie biiikling. Between these (jreat arclies the wall is relieved by two lesser arches of the san, form, one above the other, producing, at a distance, the ap})earan''i of windows. The whole Koran is written, by ( hapters, in flowing letters of delicately-inlaid black marble, over the carved ])ilaslers, architraves, and arches. Entering the porch, opposite the great iratc-way, you descend a gently-inclined plane, as in the tomb of Akbar, and reach a vaulted white-marble chamber directly under the centre of the edifice. The light, admitted through the door by which you have entered, is collected and concentrated on the mar- ble sarcophagus of Banoo Begum. A si .11&-' though smaller sar- cophagus is placed in the shadow — it holds .. 3 dust of her lover- husband. Shah Jehan. Each of these tombs is of marble as pure as the purest of Carrara, the sultana's nios!" elaborately inlaid with vmes, interwoven with t'^xts from Hie Ivoran, traced in blood- stone, agate, carnelian, lapis-iiwiuli, m ichite, jasj)er, garnets, em- eralds, rubies, topaz, and sapphires. Ascending to the main tloor .if the edifice, over the vaulted chamber, you are in the centre of an octagonal temple, and look up into a dome of snowy marble, two hundred and sixty-two feet high. This interior, though of vast ilimensions, has such delicate proportions, and such harnu)ny of light, that you are not at all oppressed with a sense of gi-andeur or imniensity, but only of a consciousness oi' exquisite, indescribable beauty. Although we stepped regularly, timidly, and lightly, yet uur footsteps brought down deafening reverberations from the dome. Our conversation came back to us in a confusion of thun- ilcrs, and a gentle whisper Avas repeated over and over again, like tones of music dying in the distance. On the rich mosaic floor, di- rectly above the real tond), are the duplicate sarcophagi, and a flood ot mellowed light, brought through a single aperture in the dome, streams over the answering memorial of the beautiful l>egum. These simulated cenotaphs are ornamented in the same manner as the real ones below, but more elaborately and more excpiisitely. They are protected by an octagonal screen, eight feet high, of mar- Si) 488 BPJTISII INDIA. mar I* I ti a .. M .« .1 -^ ' % n; I II a Lie lace-worlc, niarvcllonsly iiitenvoven with stems, leaves, aiul flowers of the lotus and of the rose, all encircled Avith a wavinc Avreatli of p;racefiil, tender, twining passion-tlower, in mosaic of precious stones and gems. Man's chief subject of contem])lation is his Creator, his Tleduciii- er, his Saviour. In action he balances between desire for power and love of freedom. lie has attempted to express all these eniotiun.s in architecture. The Parthenon is his highest expression, in that form, of awe of the gods. St. Peter's speaks, with not less distinct- ness, his sentiment of religious devotion. The Pyramids tell ]ii> reverence for human grandeur. The Capitol, at AV^ashington, mani- fests his love of freedom. The Taj-Mahal pretends to utter ni> such lofty sentiments as these, but it speaks out, more naturally than all, the gentlest, sweetest sentiment of human nature — pure, spiritual love. A tale of love is written, an idyl is sung, a nulndv of the tender passion breathes through this pure marble and these precious jewels. The tomb of Panoo Pegum, in architecture, like the apotheosis of Peatrice, in poetry, is without an original and without a copy. The Taj is a modern structnre. It is a sad reflection that the name of the architect is already lust. Connoisseurs diiler in opin- ion concerninur the stvle. Some call it Italian ; others insist that it is Saracenic ; others pronounce it Persian. We incline to think it eclectic, a blending of the beautiful in each. March 2:>t/i. — From the tomb of the Mogul monarch (^f Indin. Akbar, we passed to the tomb of the pretended monarch of Ameri- ca, King Cotton. The failure, during our civil war, of the cnttdu- supply, which had before been derived from the United State?. obliged the European nations to seek it elsewhere. Kotaliio attempts to cultivate the sta])le were made in Italy, but without success. An efl^ort of tlic Viceroy of Egypt was hardly more effect- nal. India promised better. Cotton was indigenous, and success- fully cultivated in the plains which divide the Indus from the Ganges. The importunate demand of the European markets stimulated the pi'oduction there. Fortrnes were made by epeeu- liition n \eu' () At the ^dvant/igol I'l' wlietjiel States. 'II tree labor,, "■eloft hoil fi'iind thatl that the cc t'ess, morec fndia, althi •\?ini, thel ^U'cxainiJ f'Tthc mal hetwcen a simple me J COTTON MKRrilANTS. 4'^\) s, leaves, and with a waviiij; J in luusau' of or, his Tledocni- •e for power and these emotions pression, in tluit not less distinct- vramids tell liis ashington, niani- nds to utter \\u ;, more naturally m nature— pure. is sung, a nulndy marble and tlieso architecture, like ; an original and eflection that the urs diller in opin- hers insist that it incline to think it monarch of India. \( march of Aniuri- ^var, of the cotttm- United State?. sewhere. ^^'t:dlle Italy, but without lardly more otled- enous, and succcsf- c Indus from tlie European markets re made by spccu- liition in cotton almost as rapidly in r.ombay as they were lost in Xew Orleans. Agra was the centre of the ])r(»ducing districts. At the end of the war, it l)ecame a grave (piestion whetlier the COTTON MKKCIIANTS. AdRA. :iilvantage which had thus been gained bv India could be retained, (T whether the great monopoly could be recovered by the United States. The change of the system there, from one of slave labor to tree lahor, worked to our prejudice, and doubts still remained, when we left home, concerning the solution of the problem. "We have t'oinul that solution here. The producers now universally confess that the cotton is greatly inferior to the American fibre ; they con- fer?, moreover, that the plant degenerates under the burning sun of India, although they use the seed hnported from the United States. Airain, the cU'orts to introduce improved machinery have failed. We examined one of the establishments in Avhich cotton is prepared fur the marlcet. The process is very rude. The cottim is passed lietwcon a pair of wooden rollers which are moved l)y hand. This simple mechanism is found in every house, and is an exclusive \ 440 BRITISH IXDIA. <5: occupation of women. The oporntion of packinLj is rpiitc as nido: fivo men, with their feet, trample the cotton into a Buccessioii of square boxes, one above the other; live other men hold the boxes in their phices until tlie stack thus raided contains the comploiiHut of a bale. An iron screw is then let down tlu'ou^h an uj>per tlom' upon the centre of the cotton-stack. This screw is worked liv eighty other men. Each laborer ejaculates or groans with cvliv push that he gives the lever, and this groaning, cond)ined with the noise of their tread upon the floor, i)roduces an indescribable iiml ludicrous confusion. This examination convinced us that Sir liidi. ard Temple did not misstate in the annual budget the decline ot cotton-production. !: c t « .1* J •'1 Hi : mi* S TUB TAJ, FBOSi TUX FOUMTATN. CHAPTER X. DELHI, THE MOGUL CAPITAL. A Viviil roiitrast to Airra. — liiullow Ciistlo. — Hrief Sk('U!i of Hindoo History. — The Per- siiins. — The (ireeks. — The Araiis. — Siiltuii Miilimoiiil. — Tiie Moiifrdls w Mof;uls. — Fdumlation of Deliii. — Suecessive ('lian^;eH of .Site. — The Kootiil> Miliar. — A Singti- lar Iron Siiaft. — The Moj^iil Touih.^. — The Tomb of Jchanara. — The Junina Musjid. — Tiie Imperial Palace. — Farewell to Delhi. Ludlow Castle^ Delh), March 2Cifh. — In cro-ssing the Jumna, tlic oitiulel of Delhi seems to be direetly over the terminus of the railroiul-bridge, and gives a fine etfcct to the approach. As first seen, Dellii i.s a vivid contrast to A<^vi\. Akbar wedded Agra, ai\d died — like the Hindoo widow, she has faithfidly mourned him in decline and poverty ever since. Delhi, until recently the capital of the Mogul dynasty, and since an important seat of British rule, is a fickle jade, who easily transferred her allegiance. AVe entered bvtlie Cashmere gate, and, driving over a broad plain, in which fine European buildings alternate with highly-cultivated gardens, we reached Ludlow Castle, where we are the guests of the civil com- missioner of the district. Colonel Young. The outside world derived its earliest knowledije of India from its neighbors, the Persians, who maintained a vigorous commerce with Greece in the time of Darius. They gave to the country its nunc of Ilindostan, the land of the black men. There still remain in the Andaman Islands, and some other parts of India, tribes of savages, who are supposed to be derived from an aborigir i race which possessed the cuunt"y before the Hindoos. Howe th:it ^l • I « «.l . • -» l«. I Hi' Ill J* i II » * '"Ml fact mi cuiintr lliiiiiili dividuc liowevc China Thr tended daspes ( the tarn doiibtlei I by the : cessors Ilindost attempts favored, prop!i<i^ai the (ivei and I'ulii invader order fi fornior 715 A. 1) qiiered S vears. cient (iiit qnonce hito till •iiieriii^r 1 at Dollii, These j»a a b()hh;r the c.init estahhVhc ain in t':i n HINDOO HISTORY. 443 m ■"**■■ ^,^e%WiJ« ^.v- fact may be, the earliest history of Iliiidostan represents the entire country from the ludns to the border of Ijurnuih, and from the Himalayas to Ca[)e Comorin, as inhabited by one peojtle, pro- t'e&siiii? the Uramin faith, althon<i;h they miist have been then divided into distinct tribes, having dilierent dialects. It was, however, an isolated and unsocial nation, snch as Japan and China since have been. Three hundred years before the Chris^tian era, Alexander ex- tended his concpiest across the Indus and to the banks of the Ily- (laspes (the Sutlej) with the purpose of bringing isolated India into the fannly of Mediterranean nations. This great enterprise might doubtless have been achieved at that time, had it not been defeated by the refusal of the Macedonian army to go farther. His suc- cessors quickly lost the ground he had gained. The history of Ilindostan, since that period, is the story only of. repetitions of attempts, like that of Alexander, for the con(piest T)f the country, favored, like his, by a slow process of internul disintegration. The propagandism of Buddha, which occurred soon after the failure of the (Ireek concpiest, convulsed the country, and, arraying its tribes and religious sects against each other, opened the way to a new invader. Mohammed was a religious refcu-mev of a very dillcrcnt order from IJuddlia. The latter pr<>))agated by ]ireaching, the former by the sword. In the reign (»f the Caliph AValid, about 715 A.I)., the Arabs mvaded Ilindostan from the sea, and con- quered Scinde and ])art of the Punjab, which they held for some Years. Ihit the Hindoos, rallying under the banner of their an- cient faith, expelled the Mussulman, though only ^ith the conse- iiuencc of provoking new invasions. Sultan Mahmond advanced into the Punjab, in the eleventh century ; and his sxiccessors, eon- (juering the whole of Northern India, and establishing their cajiital at Delhi, extended their sway across the Jumna and the (langes. These ]>artial Mohammedan eompierors in the north encouraged a bolder leader of the same faith. In i;)08, Tamerlane invaded the country, seized Delhi, and, with a war of terrific barbarity, esitablished that great IMongol or Mogul Empire which (ireat Jlrit- ain in fact su})pressed in 1S03, but of which she ])ermitted a 1' 444 BKITISII INDIA. shadow to stand until 18."»7. "With the exception of Akbar's resi- dence at Agra, Delhi was the capital of the Mogul Eni])ire until it^ dissolution. With successive changes of dynasty, the city has from time to time changed its place from one part of the plain to anotliei'. So it has happened that the Delhi of to-day is the last one of a dozen cities wiiich have successively borne the same name, and enjoyed the honors of a capital. This modern Delhi dates from the time of Ilumayoon, the father of Akbar. I- • -. m * ■• « ■ ! a « -I • f1 1 ' 1*1 Delhi, March 2Sth. — We drove yesterday eleven milos across the plain, seeing on all sides the palaces, mosques, and toml).s, .some still erect though abandoned, others in dilapidation, others mere dcbrin, which nuirk the sites of the several capitals which have passed away. Among these relics, stands the Kootub Minar. It may, as claimed here, or may not be, the highest pillar in the world. Wo tirst saw it at a distance of seven miles, under a dim twilii,dif, which, like moonlight, may have had the etiect of increasing jt.s apparent elevation. Approaching nearer, we found the column ;i circular fluted one of red sandstone, two hundred and thirtv-eiirlit feet high, forty-seven feet in diameter at the base, and divided into five stages or stories, the base of each stor^ ornamented with a projc'ting gallery and balustrade. The hei^ .ts of the .'successive stories are graduated in exact proportion to the contracting diam- eter of the column, the height of the lower story being ninety- four feet, while that of the upper is only twenty-two feet. As wo looked up beneath tlii.s towering monumi'nt, standing so erect ;ni(I alone in the broad iield of desolation, it seemed to us that, like Memnon on the Nile, it might have a voice, and so might t<ll us a long history of heroic achievements, nuignificent designs, and bitter disajipointmeuts, of which it has been a witness. The Jhf/c is a government institution for the transportation of passengers and property. It consists of carts drawn either by horses or oxen, with changes every four miles. At each station i< the "dak bungalow," in wlii(di the traveller, who carries his own ]trovisions and bed, nniy take rest and refreshment. A ]M'('tty Hindoo tem])le, which st.uids under the shadow of the Kootuh. hi THE KOOTUB MINAR. 445 f Akbar's resi- ^inpire wntil its ,e city lias IVoiu lain to anotliev. e last one of a line name, mid li dates truin the en miles across and tombs, some ion, others ineve itals wliirli liuve )otnb Miliar. It illiir in the world. f a dim twiliulit, of increasinij its ind the column :i and thirty-ci^ht and divided into naniented witli ii of the siicccssivp ontractinj; <li:iin- ->ry being ninety- two feet. As we ding 80 crei-t and to ns that, like .M. might ttdl'b ■ent designs, anl ness. traiipportation ct drawn either by At ea(di station i< o carries hi-^ <'^^''> nnent. A vnM}- ,f the Kootuh. ha^ been restored from a state of dilapidation, and appropriated to that use. It served lis pleasantly for our evening repast, and gave ns airy lodgings for the night. Tiiis morning, we looked from its veranda njjon the great, dark column, as it received and rellccted THE KOOTPB MINAH. the rays of the rising sun. In this illuminati(m, which left the base in deep shadow, the monument seemed even more perfect and loftier than it did on the night before. A closer observation, while it showed some new points of beauty, revealed also some lefects. Tlic Muting of the cohiinn dillors at the several stories. In the first story the fluting iK ciivniar, in the second angidar, in the third the 'irclo and the angle alternate ; the fourth story is of white inarl)le, encircled at tlie middle with a belt of brown sandstimc ; tho 4iQ BlilTISII INDIA. «r «. f» *. 1 « 1 ■1 » '1 1.. 1 « « 1 till! lit'th story is of unmixed M'liito ii'irblo. Ur Jcrncath liie ma<^iiiri- cent sculi)tured cornit'o wliK:ii .-Miiipi. ts tl:o ^irallory of each sto/v. the cohinin is boldly curved jn Arabii, In t -xts from the Koran, ai,(l in part recitals of repairs and improvements made by ditl'ercut monarchs. A circular iron staircase conducts to the summit, where the visitor takes in at one view the Jumna, the Delhi of our time, and all the ruined Dclhis for miles and miles around. IFiJW lariro must be the number of those who have t'-odden that lofty, splrjil staircase, and how diverse mi]st have been their reading of the lessons which that giddy height atlbrds ! The recitals mentioned, as translated by General Cunningham, give us only this infonua- ''on : that the erection of the column was the work of several cen- turies ; that it was finished in 1230, one hundred and sixty years before Tamerlane, and in the reign of Shumsh-oodeen-Aitumsli. We are i)rofoundly grateful for this information, but it would have saved a world of conjecture and reseirch if the writers of those in- scriptions had told us who designed -nid began the structure, ami for what object. "Was it built as it now stands alone, or was it iui appurtenance to some temple, or jxilace, or moscpie which has loti:: since min..i 1 with the earth i Was it, like the Tower of Babel, de- signed as a stairway to the lieavens, or was it to be an observatory from which to njt'.isure the magnitude and the movements of the stars'^ Is it a triumphal column, or is it a tomb'^ Parts of it have been bl;; ' h1 by the storm, and even deranged by the liglituini,' and the 'Mfaquake. Nevertheless, it stands firmly, and may en- dure for many thousand years. Distant one or two hundred feet from the column are the dilapidated gates and walls of a spacious mo8(pie. Some imagine the Ivootub Minar an a<1junct of thiit mosque; others controvert this pof*ition, while they maintain tlmt the structure for which the Kootub was designed to be an oriui- nient, though projected, was never built. There is a relic, not far from the Kootub Minar, of even greater flnti([uity, and more mysterious. It is a cylindrical iron shaft, six- teen inches thick, .estimated by General Gunninghanj to bo sixty feet long, and to weigh seventeen tons, Kxcavatiotis, to the deiitli of twenty-six feet, have failed to fin<l its lower end, while its top is THE TOMB OF IIUMAYOOX. 447 twenty-two feet above the surt:".' j. Tuuri.is earmot, aaHoly -is*', nic to be arehaulogL- :s. The accomplished truveller i3ayard Taylor says he learued at Delhi that ;iu inscription on the shaft ast'ign • it ;i date one centnry before the Christian era. If our guid ■? translated coirectly the same inscrii)tioii for us, it was erected a. ■. oVX The surroundings of this monument arc ])erple.\ing; ^i stands in the very centre of an innnense dihipidatcd but not demol- jsiied Mohammedan caravanserai, pahice, or mosque. The Sara- cenic arches of this ruin indicate, beyond all mistake, its Moham- medan character; but, here comes the difficulty: all these fine Moorish arches rest on rudely-wrought, monolith granite columns, which are covered with carvings, and vines, and images of idols, and saints. Beyond a doubt these rough cohimns were raised in honor of the thirty-three thousand gods of the Hindoos. We rec- 01,'nized, as we thought, not only those of the Braminical faith, but also some belonging to the reformed creed of Buddha. But we could not be certain ot this, for the Mussuhnan iconoclast has treated them all as eciually oli'ending against the second connuand of Moses, He has battered and defaced them so eti'ectually that they are no loniror like unto " any thing that is in heaven above, or that is iu tlie ciH'th beneath, or that is in tho water under the earth." Take into titusidcration, now, that the cross of St. (ieorgc w,<ves over these ruins, and we have a grouping, in a circumscribed nvcp of th^. moiunnents of Braminical worshij), Buddhist worship, M Lammc- dan worshij^, and (christian worship; the sjveral religloii succeed- inu eaeh other as coiKpierors, and all within the perio 1 'jf two thonsaud years. AVe drove, next, t<» a cemetery, which is conpar- atively modern ; alighting hero, we walked through several nr.rrow Slides bordered by so many costly and beautiful marble cenotaphs that oven the graveyard of Mogul monarchs l>ecame lU rnonotouous, ami the eulogistic Arabic inscriptions on them as tedi'<n=^, as the "Collection of Anierican Epitaphs and Inscriptions, with Occasional Xotcs. by the Rev. Timothy Alden, A. M., in two vols., New York, i^U.'' The tomb of Ilunuiyoon, however, deserves "special men- tion," not nu)ro on account of the great merit of that monarch than the magnilicence of the monument. The tactions rivairv of Ilu- 1« ■A:'y._:^yM*(>- 448 BRITISH INDIA. « tm t* lie # 'I « > « < « '■( I* mayooii's brothers invited an invasion from Afijlianistan, in which the Mogul emperor wa.- completely overthrown and llumayoon diiv. en into exile. Flndiiiij an asylum in Persia, he formed an alliance with the kiniij ot that country, who furnished Ilumuyoon an arniv with which he returned to Hindustan, resumed the throne ot jiis ancestors, and transmitted it to his son, the great Akbar. II there were no Taj, nor tomb of Akbar, the mausoleum of llumayoon might perhaps be as much admired as those monuments are. It sur- passes each of them as well in vastness as in nuissiveness. Its white marble dome, resting on arcades of red sandstone, making a marked feature in the ])lain, is peculiarly beautiful. Wo turned our steps from the proud nuiusoleuni to a tomb more rare, and of a verv dili'erent design. Aurungzebc, whose name is rendered infaiiiou.s by his cruelty, was a son of Shah Jehan. He seized his father's throne, usurped his kingdom, imprisoned him, and, as some histori- ans Avrite, deprived him of his eyes. II is sister, Jehanara, refusing.' to enter the imperial cour^" of the usurper, remained M'ith her uut'or- tunate father until liis death. A monument, simple and bcautitul as her own character, covers her renuiins. The inscriptidu wliicli it bears h said to have been written by lierself. AVe hrll^l:L'(l away freshly-cut tiowers to look upon it, all the time wonderiiii: who placed them there. These are the M'ords wiiich mo read in Arabic: "Let no rich, canopy rise over my grave; the grass is tlic best covering for the ])oor in spirit, the huml)lc, the epheiiienil Jehanara, the disci[>1e of the holy men of Cheest, the daugliternt the Emperor Shah Jehan." We derived from this touching inciiid- rial an assurance that ages of superstition, bigotry, and fanatieisin, cannot altogether extinguish W(»manly virtue, or the admiration ot' mankind for it. il IM « Jla/'ch 2'^f/). — Our sight-seeing, in India, is necessarily done in the early morning (ir in tho evening; when the sun i-^ vcrv I(i\i in the horizon. Our record of it is made in the time which can ln' snatched from society cu' necessary rest. The Jumna Musjid derives imposing effect from its situation in the centre of an oblong area, on a rocky terrace, which extends THE IMPERIAL TALAOE. 449 from tliG Cashmere gate to the Delhi gate, and is approached by niairiiificent stone staircases on three sides — a site not unlike that of the Capitol at Washington. The Jumna Musjid is a mosque, two hundred feet by one hundred and twenty feet, surmounted by three elegant marble cupolas with gilded spires. At each end is a siijicrb minaret, built in alternate lines of black and Avhite marble. The pavement of the mosque is of white-marble slabs, each forty- two inches by eighteen inches, finished with an inlaid black-marble border. Each slab is a kneeling-place for a worshipper. Like the mosfjue in the citadel of Agra, the edifice is called the " Pearl of MuS(jues.'" We do not attempt to compare the two. Either is more beautiful than any religious edifice we have ever seen. The Jumna Musjid is, however, the more highly revered of the two. Its venerable custodian showed us relics of the greatest possible sanctity. Among them are a pair of shoes which were M'orn by the prophet, and one hair saved from his beard ! Both of these inesti- mable treasures are carefully preserved in antique glass cases. We cannot undertake to vouch for the genuineness of that hair, but we iimst confess that the shrivelled and rotten leather makes out a strong claim for the genuineness of the shoes. There is, however, a relic, the authenticity of which can hardly be (lis})uted. It is a devotional autograjih numuscript of Fatima, the faithful and favorite daughter of Mohanuned, The first accounts of the mutiny of '.")T that went abroad attrib- uted it to a discontent on the part of the Hindoos. From inquiries liere, we have no doubt that it was an insurrectionary attempt of the Mohannnedans. Ever since its suppression. Government has forbidden public worship in the Jumna Musjid. Here, as at Agra, the Imperial Palace is within the wrlls of the (itndel. It is in complete preservation, ai>d is an additional monu- ment of the exquisite taste and munificence of Shah JeluiU, the hnilder of the Taj. Its prominent ])arts are one greater aiul one lesser "audience-hall." Each of these is of ]H>lished white mar- hie, entirely open in front, and placed at such a height as to ati'ord the emperor, sitting on the throne, iiot merely a view of the surrounding audience, but also a view of the procession of his 450 BRITISH INDIA. r •■B vassals as tlioy entered the ijreat palace-gates, with all tlieir gorye- 0U8 displays of music, soldiers, camels, and elephants. A p()li^^lu.(l wliite-marble throne, in each audience-chamber, is raised on a diiis, six or seven feet high, of the same material. A ]nire white-marble canopy, sn])ported by delicate Saracenic ])illars, lends this strncturo a peculiar grace. Both of these halls have been despoiled (if tlio decorations which first aroused the attention of Europe to the mar- vellous splendor of the Mogul Enij)ire. The solid silver ])latos o^ the great audience-chamber have been stripped from the ceilinfr^ and sold in the market in London for one hundred and sevcntv thousand pounds sterling. The lesser chand)er has been robl)cd of the famous " peacock-throne," in the construction of which Sliali Jehan expended .nx million jmunds sterling. Tlie frescos of birds and flowers on the polished marble walls arc now dim — certainly they must always have been a blemish. If, however, white niarlile and fresco are incongruous, it must be admitted that white niaHile and yellow gold, arranged in just proportions, form the most ctl'ce- tive of all ornamental cond)inations. Such is the fretwork wliicli adorns the capitals, cornices, and flutings of the columns and pilas- ters. The architect of the palace seems to have been enamoured of his own creation, for he wrote, on each angle of the lesser midi- ence-chamber, the words which ]\Ioore has made familiar to all the world in " Lalla Kookh : " II. -. "If there ho an Elysuim on earth, It is this, it is this." Let us drop mathematical lines and arithmetical mensiirc- ments, and try to convey in another way an idea of the ]>alace of Shah Jehan. C^an any one conceive a nobler spectacle tliaii an inauguration of a President of the United States, under the eastorn portico of the Capitol ? Does any one know an^^ thing in tlic world more shabby than the broad staging of plank and scantling on which the august ceremony is performed ? The silver cciliiii; and the " peacock-throne " have been removed from the tlirone- room at Delhi. We would rub off now the gilding and the fres- cos on the walls. Having thus reduced the magnificent room to ENGLISH KINDNESS. 451 ill their fjorifc- :s. A polislicd aised on ;i dais, •e whitc-marblo Ifj this structure Icspoik'd of the ope to the inar- silver ]iliitos (•♦' GUI the ceiiiui,', ed and seventy been roh1)ed of of wliic'h Shah i frescos of ))ir(.ls I dim — certainly er, white niarhlc lat white inarhle II the most eti'cp- B fretwork which )himns and pilas- been enaniourod the lesser f.ii(h- auiiliar to all the nctical mofisnro- of the palace of lectaclc than an iiider the eastern \\\ thinu' in the nk and scantling 'he silver ceiling from the throne- iiipr and the fres- rrniiicent room to Wi. original simplicity, we would commend it to the Couirress of the United States as a model stage for the inauguration-ceremony. Bayard Taylor, more fortunate than we, saw the Mogul jialace ^vhiie it yet was the residence of the last of the 8uccess(»r8 (»f Akhar. The mutineers of '57, inflated with their flrst success, proclaimed the restoration of the empire. That stipendiary yielded t«. and)i- tious persuasion, lie was quickly overthrown, stripped of allow- inu'cs, state, and possessions; and M-e find that his heirs, loyal to the Ih-itish (Tovernment, are now content with the honor of show- In/ us, as guides, the splendor of the halls and tombs of their ancestors. Delhi shares with Lahore the commerce of the western and iiortliern provinces, Afghanistan, Cashmere, and Persia. It seems likely therefore to remain, as it is, a great and populous city. The streets are often rendered impassable by heterogene(ms caravans. The shops contain fobrics, tissues, and jewelry, of excpiisite richness, iind adapted to every variety of Oriental taste. Our study of Delhi closed, to-day, with a \\i\i to the heights to which the British army retired, when driven out of the jalace of Shah Jehan, on the breaking out of the mutiny. They remained here six months, successfully resisting the surjirises and sorties of the insurgents in the city — twenty times their nmnber. At last, heing reenforced, they became assailants, stormed the citadel, and reecivered the capital. Here we leave our liost, and the learned companion of our ex- plorations, Colonel Young. American travellers are ^^i to ima- gine that Englishmen whom they meet are cold, if not churlish. Nothing could be farther from this than our expei'iencc in India, and, in looking back through all that experience, nvc find no more agroeahle remembrance than that of "Ludlow Casth','' and of the hearty welcome and courteous hospitality wc received there. .1. CHAPTER XI. |. ■* , 1 %. 1» I"* UMBALLA AND PUTTEE A LA. Mccrut, tlie Scene of the Outbreak of the Oreat Mutiny. — Hindoo Pilf^rims. — Firv^ Viow of the lliiniilayas. — Invitations to ruttceala. — Journey tiiithcr. — The City ol I'lu teealu. — Coaelies ov Elephants? — Entrance mto i'uttcoahi. — A Magiiiticent IVoas sion. — Our Palace. Vmbnlla., March o(Hh. — Leavinoj Dellii, yesterday mornino:, we recrosseil the Jumna and its valley by a bridijc and lono^ caiiscwav to the station of (razeabad. Theneo we made our way throiii;h a sea of golden wheat-tields. dotted with islands of blooming nii . i^o- trees — one hundred and tifty miles — to this place. We stopped at Meerut, a garrison-town, made memorable by being the scene of the outbreak of the mutiny. That great disaster left Jit Meerut no siicli painful traces or touching monuments as are seen at Cawniiore, Lucknow, and Delhi. The common roads parallel with the railroad, for a distance of twenty miles above ]\Ieerut, were thronged with travellers, cliicdv men and children, of all castes and classes — save only the poor ])ari- alls, each troop attended by musicians, their costumes diverse in form and color. The greater number M'erc i)edestrian8, but others rode the native ponies, donkeys, camels, and elephants. A few showed a special pride as they came along in gayly-decorated carts drawn by clean white oxen decked with ribbons and garliunl!;, The long processions which J)iiblin sent out to Donnybrook on the days of its fair; the multitude which throngs the road from INVITATIONS TO PUTTEEALA. 453 Pilr^rima.— Fivi-t View e,.,_Tlie City ol I'm A Magniticeui I'lOcts (lay mornin,!:, we 1(1 lonji; causeway \v way thvouL'li ;i blooniinj; m: . fi)- We stuppiMl at (r tho sconLM)t'the »t Mccrut no such cii at Cawniiorc, for a distance of traveller;^, chictiy |,nly the poor ]»avi- Istunics diverse in Istrians, but others ^.Icplianta. A tew rly-decorated cart^ [,n8 and }j;arlamU, Donnybrook on .'S the road from London to Epsom on tho " Derby-day ; " the processions whicii come with nuisic and banners from New-England villages to a ••niass-mecting; " or the 4tli of July in Doston, never exhibited more eager excitement, or half so much method, or a tithe of tho rrood-nature, which these Hindoos showed as they trudged along, •oniing from all parts of llindostan, to attend a Braminical festival at Iliirdwar, which is to be improved by being used also us a great liorsc-fair. At four o'clock in the afternoon, we obtained a first view of the Himalaya Mountains, stretching in a long, blue, hazy outline in tho liorizon, sixty miles distant. Major Tigh. commissioner for tho district, met us at the station, and brought us to his line old bun- ipilow, situated in a beautiful park. An Irishman, ho retains equally the warm-heartedness and the naivete of his countrymen. Pidtecala, March 31,9^. — Immediately after our arrival at rmbnlla, a native gentleman presented himself to Major Tigh, and, luuiouucing himself as "canal agent" for the Maharajah of Put- tceala, asked to be presented to Mr. Seward, Before the latter had time to answer, a second native appeared, and, declaring himself to be the maharajah's "Minister of Justice," asked to be introduced. They were admitted, and each presented a letter of invitation from tlic Maharajih of Putteeala tendering us the hospitalities of his ?t;ito, elegantly written in Arabic on gilt paper, the envelop being a bag of the finest kincob. The bag, as well as the notes, was per- lumcd with attar of roses. The bag was tied with a silken cord, on which was suspended the great waxen seal (weighing four ounces) I of the kingdom, principality, or state, of Putteeala. Yesterday, at j five o'clock p. M., we proceeded in four carriages, each drawn by four horses, which the prince had sent to convey us to his capital. hVe were attended by his two messengers, the mufitced (canal- lagcnt) and the minister of justice, a large military escort, and many jscrvants. Captain Ilorsford, of the British civil service, accom- ipnuicd us. At stages of one mile each, mounted sentinels first |Ealntcd us, and then joined our escort. The maharajah's liigh civil Dt&cers wore the finest of white India musliu turbans and robes, 30 t>. .o>r*^v^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 4 A U.i 4c 1.0 I.I ^ Its i;s 10 IL25 i 1.4 1.6 V <^ A °m «> ■> Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WIST MAIN STREfT WEBSTER, N.v. 14580 (716) 872.4503 f\ '^ :\ \ \ ^v^, <^ >^ WriS V^-^Q '^..1j '<!* '# r o 464 BRITISH INDIA. 1g **«... « If Mi "'^ r lit ^ II ■ 11 ««^ ( and his soldiers were arrayed in green, gold, and scarlet, as brightly as the birds of India. The Emperor Akbar and his successors made excellent roads and at convenient stages built caravanserais for the security and rest of travellers. These hostelries, each of which is a fortification, are still well preserved. We stopped at the half-way caravanserai, and were met tliere by a large deputation of the maharajah's house- hold, in dainty costumes, similar to those worn by his messengers. These deputies, surrounded by sixty or seventy servants, tendered us congratulations, in the name of his highness, on our safe arrival thus far on our j.urney. Each individual member of these delega- tions presented to each one of us, on a massive silver salver, cov- ered with a white napkin, a half-dozen silver coins, and a fresh bouquet. As instructed, we touched these coins as acknowledg- ment of mutual friendship, and retained the flowers. This cere- mony was followed by a profuse supply of delicate refreshments. In the midst of these attentions, a telegram from Puttceala an- nounced that the British Ministers of Finance and Foreign Aii'airs for the district of Punjab were just leaving the town, and would desire to pay their respects to Mr. Seward when they should meet him. When we had gone a few miles on our way, those distin- guished personages, with their families, came rolling along in four four-horse carriages, and an escort — both the equipages and guard having been furnished by the maharajili, and being exactly on the same magnificent scale as those by which we were conducted, Greetings were exchanged, and a cordial invitation- was given to Mr. Seward to extend his journey to Lahore, the capital of the Punjab. Putteeala, the capital of the province or native principality of the same name, is protected by a citadel as spacious, though not so substantially or scientifically constructed, rj Fort Hamilton. Forti- fications in India see'^ii . o have been built as retreats or places of safety for the sovereign or his family. The mother of the present! prince resides in the citadel of Putteeala. Arriving at its gate, we| came to a halt, and we saw through a cloud of dust the niahamj.'iii coming toward us in a magnificent state coach drawn by six white | ELEPIIANT-RIDING. 455 irlet, as brightly excellent roads, lie security and is a fortification, vay caravanserai, abarajah's liouse- y bis messengers. ervants, tendered n our safe arrival jr of these delega- silver salver, cov- coins, and a fresh is as achnowledg. jwers. This cere- icate refresbments. mm Puttceala an- nd Foreign Ailairs e town, and would a. they should meet way, those distin- )lling along in four luipagcs and gnard )eing exactly on tlie re were conducted, ;ation- was given to the capital ot tk ative principality of cious, though not ='^ •t Hamilton. Forti- •etreats or places of lotber of the present I riving at its gate, ^ve I dust the mahavaja! 1 drawn by six ^1">1 horses ; the highway, on either side, was lined with outriders and a squadron of cavalry. The prince, driving by the side of our carriage, saluted Mr. Seward with stately cordiality. When the compliments were ended, the maharajah asked Mr. Seward in which manner he would prefer to make his entrance into the capi- tal ; whether he would go with him in his coach, or whether he would be pleased to m.ake his entrance on the back of an elephant. Mr. Seward, diffident perhaps of his skill in the latter mode of travel, or acting under a conviction that modesty best becomes a visitor, accepted the oiFer of a seat in the coach. The maharajah, taking his seat at Mr. Seward's left, made a rapid advance toward the city. The ladies, like Mr. Seward, being complimented with the same choice of manner of entering the city, decided like Mr. Seward in favor of a comfortable coach-and-six. Hereupon a halt and parley ensued between Captain Horsford and the prince's master of ceremonies. In the course of this debate, it appeared that, while the prince excused Mr. Seward's declination ot the honor of the elephant on the ground of his years, the ladies, who could offer no such plea, would give offence by claiming the same indulgence. Sixty elephants stood by the road-side, richly capari- soned in cloth of gold and scarlet, all ornamented with gilt ear- rings and necklaces. There was no more to be said on that ques- tion. The elephants kneeled, silver ladders were placed against their sides, and, in less time- than it takes to describe the action, the two ladies, not venturing to ride alone, were seated together with Captain Horsford in the spacious gilded and velvet howdah. The elephant arose with a motion like that of the surge on the const of Madras, and the ladies found themselves in the upper air. The Hindoo driver sits on the elephant's head, and directs his motions by the use of an iron spike, which he thrusts against the skin on either side of the forehead. A procession was then formed. First, the maharajah with Mr. Seward ; then the ladies ; next, our three servants, Jcanie, Price, and Freeman ; next, the musteed ; next, the Minister of Justice, mounted in the same manner, and behind them the long train of elephants without any riders, and the five hundred richly-caparisoned horses, led ■?i 456 BRITISH INDIA. I*, ■■»■» •a * '€?■ « . ■s 'a »'l''-. 4 ii « ..il» by as many grooms no less gayly dressed. As a signal for the progress to begin, the air was rent by a salvo of nineteen guns; the salute was repeated by a fusillade from what seemed endless ranki of infantry, bugles sounded a march, and the cavalry moved to the front. Four bands of music wheeled into column playing, more or less together, " God save the Queen ! " Eeliind them a company of fifty bagpipers, playing not altogethci, as they fell into line, "Bonnie Dundee." At the moment of the cannonade the led horses kicked, pranced, and reared; the ele- phants uttered piteous, deep, indescribable cries, and tried to prick up their enormous jewelled ears, remaining otherwise quiet ; crowds on the wayside shouted applause, and children screamed with delight. As for Mr. Seward, he, fortunate gentleman, snugly seated by the maharajah on velvet cushions, in the coach drawn by six well-trained animals, was unconscious of the disturbance which had arisen behind him. His inexperienced and more ven- turesome companions clung to each other in fright— but order was restored, and all were reassured. On the way to his capi- tal, the maharajah addressed to Mr. Seward a studied speech of welcome. Taking care to express his regret that his guest had not accepted the elephant, the prince said that the troops wc had passed in review were ten thousand in number. He also explained to Mr. Seward that, when he came to the throne, he found no streets in Puttceala wide enough for such a pageant as he had occa- sion to make, and that he had, therefore, enlarged the streets, but not without making due compensation to the owners of adjacent property. Night came on as we reached the gates. We looked from our howdahs upon the flat roots of the dwellings and shops he- low us. Their inmates were gathered at the doors in gay drosses, and seemed as diminutive as the burghers of Liliput. Thus wc passed through the entire city, and reached, beyond the firtlier gate, an esplanade used as a Campus Martius. Winding around a tall flag-str*ff, under the folds of what is called the sacred banner, we stopped before a lofty Saracenic gate. Here, the maharajali, with Mr. Seward, alighted, and the elephant-riders dismounted. The prince led the way on a gravelled walk, by the side of sue- signal for the nineteen guns; seemed endless id the cavalry 3d into column, een ! " Behind t altogetbci, as moment of the reared; the cle- s, and tried to otherwise quiet ; lildren screamed entleman, snugly the coach drawn the disturbance d and more ven- ■right— but order way to his capi- 1 studied speech hut his guest had he troops we had He also explained me, he found no nt as he had occa- d the streets, but wners of adjacent atcs. AVe looked ings and shops he- jrs in gay dresses, .iliput. Thus ^vc eyond the farther Winding around the sacred banner, ■e, the mabarajali, ■iders dismounted, the side of sue- lU u in Id Ml:' f ilia ^ 458 BRITISH INDIA. € •Oka liU I » * S I cessive fountains, in an orange and lemon garden, as it seemed, of boundless extent. Each fountain poured over a cascade into tho next. These cascades were illumined by torch-lights from behind, which imparted to the jets all the hues of the rainbow. We stopped at the porch of a small Saracenic palace. The prince, taking Mr. Seward by the hand, led him up -x gentle flight of steps, across a veranda, into a salon which may be eighty by forty feet, and thirty feet high, the ceiling supported by a double row of col- umns, and the walls draped with orange and scarlet silks. " Tliis palace," said the maharajah, " is yours ; this is the hall in which you will sit, these apartments on either side of it are the rooms in which you will sleep. You must be weary with your journey. I beg to take my leave for the night. I shall have the honor to visit you to-morrow morning." The ladies were not slow in exploring the cosy little palace. Its lights, furniture, and ornamentation, are an Oriental exaggera- tion of the European style. The welcome dinner, though prepared by a French hand, and graced with the best wines of France, Ger- many, and Portugal, was served by Hindoos, who, dressed in low- ing white gowns, glided noiselessly in bare feet over the velvet carpet. It was evident, as he himself said, that the Prince of Put- tecala is not like those "people" whom we see in Calcutta. As for the ladies, they expressed a doubt whether the story of Aladdin is indeed a fiction. CHAPTER XII. PUTTEE ALA {Continued). Oriental Displays and Diversions. — The Menagerie. — The Prisons. — The Heir-Apparent. — An Elephant Fight. — Jesters and Jugglers. — The Koyal Palace. — Magnificence of the Maharajah. — The Durbar. — The Young Prince. — Superb Presents. — A Magnificent Salon. — The Maharajah's Conversation with Mr. Seward. — A.n Exhibition of Fire- works. A2yrll \st. — This has been a day of bewildering succession of Oriental displays and diversions. The Minister of Public Works came before breakfast, and attended us to the inevi- table menagerie. The aviaries, though full, are inferior to those of the King of Oude. We saw, for the first time, the long-legged, a\\'kward, brown cassowary, whose name rhymes to "missionary" in the witty verse where " Timbuctoo " finds its answer in " hymn- book too." The tiger collection is very fine, many of the animals of huge size and quite untamed. From the cages of wild beasts we passed to the cages of wild men, the state-prison of Putteeala. It covers an area of four acres, enclosed by a low adobe wall. There are eight hundred and twenty-five prisoners, chiefly convicted of tie crimes of arson and burglary; of these, only one hundred and fifty can read and write. Two himdred convicts are impris- oned in other parts of the province. Imprisonment is generally for a term of one, two, three, or seven years, occasionally for life. Capital punishment is inflicted only for murder. The population of the city of Putteeala is eighty thousand, and that of the ancient 460 BRITISH INDIA. <B -V « 63 Hi:' • kingdom or principality is two millions, and yet there has been no capital execution in two years. The prisoners are neither contuied in separate eells, nor do they live together. Those of each caste work, sleep, and eat, in difterent divisions of ^he building ; tlic odious distinction of caste is preserved nowhere more absolutolv than here. The pariahs, outcasts everywhere in common life, are equally segregated in prison, and subjected if possible to a l(.)wer humiliation. All arc heavily ironed, and are guarded by an armcc' police of three hundred men. Their labor is either hard or light, according to the grade of their oiFence. Hard labor consists of grinding grain with a hand-mill ; light labor is weaving carpet, making shoes, pottery-ware, and the like. Our labor-reformers in the United States may find a new argument for their claims in the fact that, by the laws of Putteeala, five hours are a full day's work. The prisoners have native medical attendance, but no religious or secular instruction. The products of the prison arc sold in the markets, and nearly defray its expenses, which average fourteen cents a divy for each convict. We found at the prison-gate, as we came out, a train of elephants kneeling for our service, but Me respectfully declined the honor. On the way homeward, we met a small boy in a gilded coach, with post'lions and outriders. lie ■was so richly arrayed and superbly fittcudcd, that we at once con- jectured him to be the heir-apparent. It was fortunate tlrtt we saluted him as such ; for the minister who attended us afterwnrd informed us that the little lad had been sent out to meet Mr. Seward, and was attended by the entire ministry. We breakfasted alone in our little palace, at ten o'clock. The maharajah came at eleven. He invited Mr. Seward and the ladies to a grand durbar. The English ladies whom we have met in India have declared to us th'it they decline to receive native princes, on the ground that the ladies of India decline to receive gentlemen in the zeuanab. The reason given for this seclusion of women is, that a genera! intercourse with society would be immoral and unbecoming tlic dignity of the sex. But we are inclined to think that Christian women who thus refuse to recognize the native gentlemen are in fact adopting the bad customs and manners of India, instead !A:#*^^K!1• -fSi.s.- '<', AN ELEPIIANT-FIGnT. 401 of commending our own better morals .nnd manners to the people of that country. The prince's invitation was accepted. lie seemed to have only just taken his leave, when wc were summoned to meet him at the pavilion at the centre gate. Here he con- ducted us up a winding staircase, and gave us seats in a balcony, which overlooks the esplanade. He performed this courtesy in a manner which showed that he fully understands the Western sentiment of respect for women. He afterward took care to explain to us, through the prime-minister, his regret that the pre- vailing and uncompromising religious sentiment of tlu' country prevented him from introducing the Western social customs into his own family. He has two wives, neither of whom has ever seen a foreigner, man or woman, nor has ever met even a countryman of her own, other than the nearest blood relations. The prince added that, before the Mohammedan conquest, the women of his own royal house were more distinguished for political ability and energy than the men. A strange remark for an Oriental. The entertainment to which we had come was an elephant- fight. Two enormous combatants were brought on the field. They came with manifest reluctance. Their tusks had been cut away half their length, and the stumps were bound with brass. They fought by pushing their broad foreheads against each other, and by crowding with the shorte.ied tusks. It was seen, after one short encounter, that one animal was more, powerful than the other. The weaker retreated. No eflbrt his keeper made could encourage him to renew the contest, nor could any urging by the driver of the victorious beast induce him to pursue his advantage. The prince dismissed these combatants, or rather non-combatants, with disgust, and caused them to be immediately replaced by two other animals of equally gigantic size. They fought in the same way as the first, t.nd with about the same result, except that the vanquished animal in this case retreated quite out of tlte arena, while the conqueror was with much difficulty held back from pur- suit. These latter contestants gave place in their turn to two others, and the form of the combat varied. With their trunks, they clasped each other by the head, and, thus embraced, they continued a battle 462 BRITISH INDIA. until one became so worried and exhausted that he gave up the contest. The maharajah said, " These elephants are good light- ers, but the heat overpowers them." We agreed with him abuiit the temperature, while we thought the pertbrniance of the po^r boasts needed no apology. The prince now took his leave, and we returned to our palace, and took our seats on the veranda under a canopy of Cashmere shawls, suj)ported by silver stalls, the fountains gurgling at our feet. Two court-jesters appeared before us, and in the Hindoo language went through a rehearsal of drolleries and pantomimes, which seemed to us not unworthy of Dan Rico or G. L. Fox. They gave place to an acrobat, who, although eighty mi' Ho -, it { « 6? Hi;- '■ lum: ^ A CONJUBOB AT PUTIEEALA. years old, displayed prodigious strength and agility. With a long sword in hand, he turned a double somersault, cutting a betel-nut in two parts. Although these performances were ordered for our JUGGLERS AND MUSICIANS. 4G3 own party, tlicy soon attracted a crowd of native spectators, who iiiiinitested a higher appreciation for them than we did. "We en- joyed much more highly their rapt attention ; but the prime minister would have no such vulgar intrusion. The admiring crowd was dispersed. Then came on another sport, a company of jugglers, one, a young man who performed feats with a goat and a monkey ; another, a very old and eccentric Sikh, with long, white hair, and eyes as large and sunken as those of DiUiiel Webster. He seemed a man to whom we should pay our homage, rather than one who should be required to cater to our amusement. His achievement was to make a pigeon fire a mimic cannon. The ordnance was duly loaded and primed. It went off, but, iri the act, the gentle gunner rose into the air, and went off too. The string of his captivity had fallen from his feet. He perched on the palace-roof. The poor old man tried in vain to entice him down. He appealed to the new ludience which had gathered round, but no assistance could be given. The juggler became inconsolable; when he saw his loss, he assumed an attitude as piteous as that of " Rip Van Winkle " when he discovers the absence of his faithful " Schneider." Next came a musical band, which gave us a concert on native instnnnents, playing their pensive airs, which we thought at first so unintelligible, but which we now find pleasing, sometimes quite touching. The gamut is like our own, of eight tones, but in play- ing or singing a melody, called rang^ they use all the semi-tones, so that the performance is a chromatic succession of notes, and you have to guess which of the accentuated tones speak the air. Sud- denly, at the prime minister's command, this series of diversions came to an end, and all the performers, musicians, jesters, jugglers, acrobats, and fools, disappeared. Thereupon sixty thorough -bred Arabian, Persian, Australian, and African horses, came before us tor inspection. They were gorgeously caparisoned, with silken bridles, golden trimmings, kincob and velvet robes, and housings of India cashmere. They wore also gold ear-rings and necklaces and bangles. One of them, which is claimed to be the fastest horse ill India, borrows the name " Hermit " from the great English «,^ •tt ■■ I* W 11;;: m 'gli» THE MAHARAJAH'S PALACE. 4G5 courser. Tlic fantastical grooms mnnifcstcd scarcely less prido than the horses themselves in showini^ their tine points. What wonder that we now thought the princely exhibition was ended? It was not, thongh. Wo wore siiinnioned again to onr seats in the pavilion at the gate. Two elephants canio into the area with their calves — one of these ])orn since the captivity of the cow, the other made a captive with its mother in the jungle. P^ew persons, perhaps, can imagine how skilfully the little animal throws back its trunk, while taking its nutriment. The calf that was "native here, and to the manner born," was bold and indilVerent, the other timid and frightened. Its cries were almost human, and (he mother's manner of soothing it not less so. At five o'clock, Mr. Seward, the ladies, Captain Ilorsford, and servants, were duly mounted in gorgeous how^dahs on elephants, Mr. Seward being raised to his howdali in a gilded palanquin. Notwithstanding onr previous experience, wo all felt insecure in our exaltation. While the elephants rose to their feet, wc held fast to the arms of our howdahs, very much as the landsman grasps the bulwark of a ship in a high sea. Our animals marched three abreast, covering the entire pavement of the widened streets. With the careful help of numberless supple grooms, the party came safely to the foot of the broad staircase within the court of the palace, except that, on our calling the roll, Freeman did not answer. He, like the rest, was mounted on an elephant, but was left behind. The i)alace is built on the sides of a quadrangle, is four stories high, and is quite imposing. A battalion of infantry presented arms, and a ringing blast from tlic bugles of a squadron of cavalry greeted us as we entered the court. While we were dismounting^, a brass band played the ever-favorite national anthem in honor of Mr. Seward, and the bagpipers followed with " Annie Laurie " in honor of the ladies. We have heretofore described the magnifi- cence of the attire of the Maharajah of Putteeala, when he appeared at the opera and at the concert in Calcutta. We wondered at the strings of emeralds and pearls which drooped from his neck and turban, when he met us yesterday at the citadel. When he paid Lis visit of ceremony this morning at the pavilion, we thought he ). ] 466 BRITISH INDIA. !- <« I |l :4 ■m m i IK,' ' could have nothing in reserve so fine as the diamonds and emeralds lie then wore. One chain, suspended from his turban, contained twenty-six brilliants, each as large as a hazel-nut. But those doc- orations were simplicity itself when compared Avith the pearls rubies, emeralds, sapphires, and diamonds, which flashed upon us as ho stood resplendent on the portico above, waiting to receive us. The music, until now hushed, burst forth from twelve unseen bands at once. With majestic courtesy, he took Mr. Seward by the hand and conducted him up the steps, and across the terraced portico and seated liim in a silver arm-chair, which was placed on a dais within a recess, in a great hall of audience, which was filled to its utmost capacity. Then excusing himself, his highness returned to the portico, and conducted one jf the ladies to an equally magniii- cent scat ; then returned, and brought the other lady in the same courtly manner. He then seated himself between the two ladies. Mr. Seward had bet'ome anxious, and now asked Captain Ilorsfonl for Freeman. Inquiry was made, and he was found sitting meeldv, if not quite patiently, in his gilded howdah, forgotten in the bustle; equally unable to descend without assistance, or to mr;ke his wants known. At command, a silver ladder was raised against the kneel- ing beast, and Freemnn entered, having had to wait his audience at Putteeala, as he had before to wait for the fifteenth amendment to bring him tc the citizenship of the United States. The music ceased. The prince, now turning to Mr. ScAvard, delivered an elaborate speech, in which he explained, in a strain perhaps not altogether free from Eastern hyperbole, the ]iridc and satisfiiction which he derived from Mr. ScM'ard's visit to his capital, and to the palace of his ancestors. This discourse was followed bv an address equally complimentary to each of the ladies. Mr, Seward replied that it was particularly gratifying to him to be received with so nnich consideration in one of the most important of the nativ3 states of India. These compliments finished, the infant son and heir of the prince was brought in, accompanied bv twenty or more tutors, and attendants, and was formally presented to each of the visitors. The little boy, only four years old, is very pretty. lie has large dark eyes and curling black hair. His small THE INFANT PRINCE. 467 onds and emeralds turban, jonlained t. But those (li'c- witli the pearls, ti flashed upon us iting to receive ns. elvc unseen bands jward by the hand i terraced portico, placed on a dais ch was filled to its glmcss returned to m equally niagnili- • lady in the same !en the two ladies. I Captain Ilorsfonl md sitting meekly, )tten in the bustle ; to mr.ke his wants against the kneel- ait his audience nt tith amendment to g to Mr. Seward, lained, in a str.iiii 3ole, the jn-idc and visit to his capital, sc M'as followed by the ladies. Mr, inc: to him to be le most important ents finished, the n, accompanied by formally presented r years old, is very ;lc hair. His small 1 rlc'li scarlet-and-bluo silk dress was loaded with jewels. An enor- mous turban, embroidered with gold, seemed enough to weigh him down. He stood erect and made profound salams / then one of his tutors, speaking in the child's n 'e, said : " I had the honor of meeting your excellencies, in your morning drive, and I hope you have had a pleasant day. I shall always remember that I have seen you here." Having gone through his part with perfect pro- priety, the yoang prince, like any less distinguished child, laid his curly head on the arm of his great silver chair, and was soon sound THE rniNCB OF rUTTEKALA asleep. The maharajah now spoke of his domestic state, saying, however, nothing of wife or wives, lie dwelt, as a proud father might, on his two children, the one who was now with us, and the other a girl, still younger, in the zenana. He tlien gave us a brief account of his father, who was distinguished for his heroism, and of his two sisters, one of whom is dead, the other :i Avidow. This easy and pleasant conversation over, a troop of nautch-girls came upon the floor, more richly dressed and more graceful even than 468 BRITISH INDIA. m r*^ 4 4. a SB.., • > * 1^ mi > > Uilli|i» «« those we saw at the regatta on the Ganges. The hall was now cleared. Fifty Sikh bagpipers, in British uniform, marched through the hall, discoursing familiar airs under the leadership of a Scottish piper, in tartan and kilts. After these amusements, the business of the durbar was re- sumed. The maharajah's ministers of state were announced appeared and made salams in a manner which elsewhere might be thought aifected or obsequious, but here is graceful and dignified. Mr. Seward detained each, with questions in regard to the affairs of his department, and the form in which it is conducted. Xext came the general and commanders of the army, not forgetting the Highland lc:".der of the pipers. Putteeala has no navy. Last, a great number of persons, presented as " relatives of the prince," employed in judicial, political, and municipal trusts. No present- able man in the city was omitted. The presentations being over, a multitude of servants, " that no man in haste could number," came bearing silver trays on their heads filled with India fabrics of mus- lins, cambrics, cashmeres, silks, and jewels, and laid the whole at Mr. Seward's feet, the trays covering twenty feet square on the floor. The pi-ince, with infinite gravity, invited Mr. Seward to accept this " small and unworthy collection " as a token of his higlmess's respect and aflfection. Mr. Seward, having been previ- ously instructed, touched with his finger the simplest article, a turban scarf of purple interwoven with gold thread. The trays and their bearers immediately disappeared, but only to be replaced by a similar display, no less costly and elegant. These treasures were laid at the feet of one of the ladies, who was asked to accept this " poor trash." In accordance with an intimation through an officer, she touched a cashmere shawl. The train and merchandise disappeared, and the third and equal presentation was made to the second lady, who in like manner touched a shawl. The prince, who had looked on with an air of supreme indifference to the whole proceeding, then said to Mr. Seward, " I have a great many other things in the palace, which I should like to present to you, but I will not take up your time to look at them." Then, thanking Mr. Seward and the ladies for having accepted these " unworthy A MAGNIFICENT SALON. 469 e hall was now n arched through liip of a Scottish durbar was re- ere announced, ewhere might be ful and dignitled. ard to the aftairs onducted. Next lOt forgetting the o navy. Last, a s of the prince," ists. No present- ions being over, a Id number," came lia fabrics of mus- laid the whole at eet square on the d Mr. Seward to IS a token of his aving been previ- simplest article, a m-cad. The trays iuly to be replaced These treasures as asked to accept liation through an and merchandise 11 was made to the ,awl. The prince, lulifference to the uive a great many to present to you, ' Then, thanking these " unworthy trifles," he in a loud voice, and with an imperious manner, directed that all the articles wdiich had been thus displayed and oifered to us, should be conveyed to Mr. Seward's palace and delivered to his servants. For our part, we are quite sure that " these unworthy trifles " would have been sufficient to stock an Indian bazaar in J{ew York. Price, Freeman, and Jeanie, who had been filled with admiration in witnessing the august ceremony, became sud- denly perplexed to know how they should convey so large a quan- tity of precious baggage in our small special railway car. The Prince of Putteeala now spoke with pride of the salon in which the durbar was held, and not without reason. It is one hundred and thirty feet long, sixty feet wide, and thirty feet high. The roof is supported by double rows of columns, between which are suspended crystal chandeliers, with variegated-glass shades for two thousand lights. The walls, on all sides, are hung with mir- rors. Mr. Seward rose to take leave. The betel-nut was offered to our palates, the attar of roses to our h^nds, and we were dismissed with a suggestion that we should drive through those of the city p:irks and gardens which we had not yet seen, and then return for a tinal visit in the evening. The maharajah conducted us down the staircase and placed us in carriages. We drove an hour through the public grounds, being stopped every few rods by gar- deners, who covered us with flowers, and filled our carriages with fruit. A band of music, on the way, gave us "God save the Queen," which tunc these good people seem to think to be a national hymn of our own. On the way to our pavilion, we met the maharajah, driving his favorite " Hermit " before a dog-cart, at a furious rate, followed by a flying escort. We returned to the palace at eight o'clock. All the two thou- sand candles were ablaze, and were reflected to infinitude by the broad, bright mirrors. Not only the salon, but the court, the grand stairway, the portico, the entire palace, with its thousand windows and balconies, were illuminated. So the ancestral hall of Putteeala was as brilliant as the mountain-palace in which Cupid visited the enchanted Psyche. We had an hour of conversation, which was the more interesting because informal. It turned chiefly 31 -^ . ifc, 470 BRITISH INDIA. % wia. ! 1* IK c ■* '*« li fS f^ Hi , ' ilia on the prince's intended journey the next year to England, and his desire to extend it to the United States. He presented Lis photograph to Mr. Seward, and requested him to write from different points on his travels in India. He then asked for a minute account of the painful event at Washington, in which Mr. Seward was a sufferer. He showed a deep interest in that subject, although his knowledge of it was imperfect. The mahara- jah now informed us that he had made all needful arrangements for our comfortable journey to the Himalayas. His thoughts then turned once more upon himself. He ordered in, and exhibited with much pride, his state-robes, among them the one in which we had seen him at the concert in Calcutta. All of them were stiffened with jewels. E?timated together, with his paternal shield and sword. their value is half .', million dollars. Taking a fin; 1 leave, we returned to our pavilion, expecting: that our late dinner would be a quiet one. We were mistaken, At the moment when the dessert came upon the table, the Minister of Public Affairs announced an exhibition of fire-works in the gar- den. We walked througli a section of it which we had not previ- ously had time to explore, and, amid the murmuring of cascades, took our seats in the balcony of a little palace or pavilion, the coun- terpart of the one in which we reside. The pyrotechnic exhibition had all the variety of our similar displays at home, but in excess, A party of a hundred artists on each side of the oblong lake were to alternate with a corresponding corps on the opposite side. These performers were, however, so emulous that, instead of making such a measured display as they intended, the whole exhibition went otf simultaneously. There were lanterns, transparencies, rockets, ser- pents, trees, wheels, stars, ribbons, candles, balloons, naval fights, and bombardments ; all these illuminations being reflected from the surfiice of the clear, smooth lake and surrounding cascades and foun- tains. The unexpected activity of the performers, while it produced j much perplexity and confusion, had, nevertheless, one compensation i for us; within twenty minutes from the time the display began, BUD, moon, stars, dragons, serpents, and balloons, were expiring all around us, leaving only blackened frame-works on the ground. had pla last stag to June of the t try over metallic rying fn tains, liead as it with a wear the this subj* country, hrimmed arriving would sal to enjoy on that to England, and [e presented his L to write from [\en aslced for a ngton, in which ) interest in that 2t. The mahara- ful arrangements lis thoughts then in, and exhibited 3 one in which we hem were stitTened ,1 shield and sword, pavilion, expectini: Ve were mistaken. table, the Minister L-e-works in the gar- L we had not previ- nuring of cascades, pavilion, the com- foteclmic exhibition ame, but in excess, oblong lake were t<> >positc side. These ead of making such exhibition went oif rencies, rockets, ser- illoons, naval fights. ig reflected from the .g cascades and foun- i^s, while it produced I ss, one compensation 3 the disphiy began. ns, were expiring all on tlie ground. CHAPTEH XIII. A GLANCE AT THE HIMALAYAS. Departure from Putteeala. — Along the Banks of the Jumna. — Protection from the Sun. — Reception at Pindarrie. — An Illumination. — Kallia and Ku&sowlee. — The British Commissioner. — A View of the Himalayas. — An Irish Home. April 3d. — We left Putteeala, on the morning of the 1st in- stant, by a train of four-horse post-coaches, which the maharajah had placed at our service, and, under a farewell salute, began the last stage of our excursion to the Himalayas. After stopping here to lunch, we continued the journey thirty-five miles along the banks of the Jumna, making in all sixty-nine miles. Though the coun- try over which we passed seemed sandy and barren, yet the fiim metallic roads were crowded with bullock and dak mule-trains car- rying freights to the troops, dwellers, and sojourners, in the moun- tains. All classes here regard the sun as their chief enemy, and the head as his point of attack. The natives, not content with covering it with a thick turban, draw all their garments over it, and even wear their pallet beds upon it. For ourselves, we have divided on this subject. The ladies wear the solar tojjees (pith hats) of the country, while Mr. Seward adheres tenaciously to his light, broad- brimmed "Panama." As the night came on, the dak animals, arriving at their frequent stations, were unharnessed, and, as they would sav on the Plains, were " corralled." Their drivers sat down to enjoy their frugal meals under the trees. The breeze, however, on that day awakened a driving, blinding sand-storm, bringing on ii 'h il 472 BRITISH INDIA. thick darkness. Our road, sometimes crossing river-chunnels, now dry, and then winding across orchards of mango, tamarind, and date-palm trees, on the plain, became uncertain and ii:isafe. T!ie only lights which appeared in the lonely journey were by no means inspiriting. They were Hindoo obsequies, and "All around Glared evermore the frequent funeral-piles," « 5r ■•■t ( III; lilt ■^Vj The fearful sand-storm was laid by a pouring rain, whicli only made the darkness more intense. We were about sinking witli fa- tigue and apprehension, when our spirits were roused by innumer- able torch-lights. The people of Pindarrie, a town belonging to the Maliarajah of Putteeala, looking for our arrival, had come out to meet us on the plain. Under this cheering illumination, tliev presented to- us their " submission," and tendered the hospitalities of the place. They conducted us through crowded streets, and we alighted under a broad, high gate. Keccived here, we passed, bv the light of the torches, a series of fountains with intervening cas- cad3s, like those of Putteeala — our guides at the same time in- forming us that the walks had been illuminated, but, much to their disappointment and grief, the storm had extinguished the lights. A pavilion in the spacious garden received us for the niglit. It differed from ou?' house at Putteeala, being of purer Hindoo archi- tecture, instead of being Moorish with European accessories. Tlio dinner provided for us, though elaborate, did not detain us Ions:. Clambering high, steep stairways, and passing through nariov,- corridors, we reached a suite of apartments, with balconies over- looking the fountains. We were most reluctantly awakened t^vo hours later by an announcement that the storm was over, and that the garden was illuminated for our special entertainment. It is not in human nature to resist persevering kindness timidly offered. We dressed and performed with all alacrity the duty expected of us as admiring spectators. The light, refracted and streaming through the cascades, gathered into brightness over them, and glis- tening on the dripping foliage up through the orange-trees, lost it- self in the pale, glimmering rays of the half-clouded moon. Unlike RIDE TO KUSSOWLEE 473 jr-chivnnela, now , tamarind, and tid ii;.isafe. T'.ie ere by no means nd .es." rain, whicli only t sinkin}^ witli i'a- used by innuuiei-- twn belonging to val, bad come out illumination, tliey d tbe hospitalities Led streets, and we ere, we passed, by li intervening cas- tbe same time in- but, mucb to their ruisbed tbe lights. for tbe niglit. It urcr Hindoo arclii- 1 accessories. The lot detain us Ion;:. tbrougb uan-ov; tb balconies over- Intlv awakened two was over, and that tertainment. It is ,es8 timidly offered. c duty expected of tod and streaming over tbem, and glis- range-trees, lost it- dedmoon. Unlil<e our experience at " tlie metropolis," our sleep tbat night in provin- cial Pindarrie was not a complete success. Our house was indeed Oriental in its appointments as well as in construction. Tbe atmos- ])liere, cooled by the stor.,.!, was refreshing, and the music of rus- tling leaves and falling waters was soothing, but the princely pavil- ion, inhabited only on occasions like the present, has become the auodo of owls, bats, rats, lizards, and centipedes. AVe had hardly fallen into a second slumber, when we were aroused this time to wage war with those malignant disturbers of human repose. The allied army was m^re than once put to flight, but it came back with a strong reiinforcement of well-disciplined and practical mosquitoes. The trial was attended by only one equivalent : it enabled us to see, as the storm cleared away, and the full moon resumed her splendor, a range of the Himalayas stretching across the northern horizon. The next morning, at an early hour, we drove four miles to Kalka, at the base of the mountains, the end of the carriage-road. In reaching Kalka, we had come twelve hundred miles from Cal- cutta, and gained an elevation of two thousand feet, without other evidence of it than a somewhat lower temperature, and a slightly perceptible difference of vegetation. We were now to climb five thousand feet higher, to the summit of tbe lowest range of the Himalayas, at Kussowlee, and to do this in a journey of nine miles. Mountain-travel here is done in three ways ; by the jhanijjmi^ a rude sedan-chair; the j^aZ/tW, a covered litter, in which the passenger is obliged to lie down ; or in the saddle with mules and ponies. We took jliampaus and ponies. At the moment of departure, our guide, raising his arm almost perpendicularly, pointed to a Avhite object, high up the mountain-acclivity, and said, " Behold Kussowlee ! " Like all mountain-roads, these are engineered by torrents winding down deep, irregular, and dark ravines or canons. At one moment we had the sun on our right, then quickly on our left, sometimes in front, and sometimes at our back, and as often directly over- head. Often we descended, by a long road hewn from the moun- tain-side, into shided dells, and crossed noisy brooks, only to rise by a similar acclivity to higher hill-tops. Sometimes we looked for an indefinite distance over the smiling plain of the Jumna, almost m. 474 BRITISH INDIA. ■•■l« I- Hi.' « ' J ' i ■u i' J* fanv^ying that we saw its junction with the Ganges, and then sud- denly found ourselves imprisoned within lowering, frowning walls of mountain rocks. We passed a fortification, which, before the British o'cupation, protected the peaceful lowlanders against incur- sions from the wild and more vigorous invaders from Afghanistan. It hung so long over our heads that we thought this castle nuist mark the end of our journey. With much surprise, we li'tcrward found ourselves looking down upon the same fortification, and -t, yet we were more than five miles from Kussovvlee. The date-palm maintains its foothold for only a short distance on the mountain- side. Wheat -fieldf* are seen at the height of three tho'asand feet. Taose below are quite ready for the sickle, while the uppermost fields show the bluish-green blade, as we see it at home, when just unveiled from the snow. Wheat will be gathered on the banks of the Potomac long before that which is growing on these mountain- terraces. The palm and the mango gave place chiefly to the low candelabra cactus, which seems to require neither depth of soil nor constant moisture. This showy plant intermingles with elders and alders, white, blue, yellow, purple, and crimson mountain-flowers, here and there a dwarf rhododendron, and profuse " Virginia creep- ers." At the height of four thousand feet, the cactus gives up the struggle, and the small plateaus are covered with low spreading pines, with trunks of not more than eight inches in diameter. The road now becomes more steep, the precipices more abrupt. It is the season of drought. The mountain-sia s are brown. There is, nevertheless, in every dell, a village or hamlet, the houses mainly built of sand-stone, with thatched-roofs, and surrounded by stacks of hay and small herds of small cattle, much more sleek and fat than those which are raised on the plains. Travellers who have visited the eastern part of the Himalayas tell us that, on heights greater tlinn those which we reached, they found forests of oak and laurel. We did not see the eagle which those travellers describe as soaring over the mountain-peaks, nor the monkey which they say pelts the passer-by in the valley of Cashmere. Before we reached Kussovvlee, thick clouds arose, as is their wont, leaving no towering peak, pin- nacle, or distant range of mountainj visible. Kussowlec, a not in- A GLIMPSE OF THE HIMALAYAS. 476 considerable native town, is now occupied with army hospitals an 1 a small garrison. Major Parsons, commissioner at Simla, had y. o- vidcd for us '^ pleasant lodge in the village. A lassitude c .mo over us in consequence of our travelling in the upper air, and this oommingled with feelings of disappointment that, although we had come so far to see the Himalayas, we were to see only their base. The British officers, considerate and hospitable, as we have univer- sally found them, allowed us two hours for rest, before the entertain- ment at which wc were to receive their families. Here, as at Pin- darric, we were awakened prematurely, but more to our satisfaction ; the sky had brightened, and lae f,now-clad range was visible. "We hastened to the veranda, and the Himalayas confronted us, streteh- hig east and west as far as the eye could reach, looming half-way up to the centre of the heavens. The crest was an undulating field of dazzling snow; but presto, change! Even at the moment when we were aiming the telescope, black spots descended on that white mantle. The clouds came back again. Thenceforth, neither rocko iior snow-fields were to be seen. The distant Himalayas had dis- appeared as suddenly as they had come before us. Nevertheless, we were content. Wc stood on the giant's foot, and for one mo- mei;!; had looked him fully in the face. At mid-day the horizon cleared, and we saw, eastward, the valley in which the mighty Ganges has his cradle ; and, westward, the plain in which not only the Indus has its fountains, but also that from which the Jhylum and Sutlej spring. It was something to study, from this stand-point, the geography of the continent. From our eminence we distinctly traced the mountain-passes through which the northern invaders of India came — the Tartar, the Afghan, the Persian, and even the great Macedonian. We left with regret the interesting society which gathered around us at Kussowlee. As we descended the mountain, we remarked that we found this portion of the Ilimf^layas as sterile and dull during a large part of the year as the liocky Mountains. Neither the one nor the other can be cultivated without partial irrigation, but with it t!ie now desolate valleys and table-lands may be made as luxuri- ant and beautiful as the peaks which rise above them are sublime. 476 BRITISH INDIA. « w«, •■«, it 1j! T.t was nightfall when we reached our Hindoo resting-place at 1 -ndarric. All the way down, the guides were on the lookout for pantliers, which infest this fine Government road, but we saw- no w^ild-beast of any kind, though we heard all around us tlie mournful and distracting of the jackal. Cakes, tea, and wine, awaited us at Kalka — a generous supper, with renewed and successful illumination of the fountains, at Findarrie. Simple, gentle mountaineers ! Pleased above all other pleas- ures when pleasing the stranger. When shall we see again hos- pitalities like those of town and country in Putteeala ? Taking our leave as soon as possible, we resumed our carriaejes at eleven o'clock, and by the light of the now unclouded moon we made our way down the bank of the Jumna, and found the <i;ates and door of Major Tigh's Irish home wide open at three o'clock in the morning. What a happy realm Great Britain would be, if the English and the Gaelic elements were combined as harmoni- ously in the entire population of the islands as they are in that genial dwelling ! %t TUB UIMALATAS. CHx\PTER XIY. ALLAHABAD AND JUBBULPOOR. An Interesting Debate. — Earl Mayo, the Viceroy of India. — His Murder. — The Vindhya Mountains. — Industrial Activity of Jubbulpoor. — An Elephant Hide. — A Night Voy- age on the Nerbudda. — Romantic and Beautiful Scenery. — Uiudoo Tenderness for Animals. Government House, Allahabad, Ajwil Gfh. — We arrived at a late hour last night. The rest which was so needful was broken at (l;iwn by marti il music. A detachment was escorting the vice- roy from the railway-station to Government House. "Wc have had the good fortune to hear a very interesting debate in the Legislative Council, over which he presides, and also of dining with him and the members of that distinguished body. The viceroy is on his way with his court to the summer capital of Simla, in the same lower range of the Himalayas from which we have just descended. He rests here to-night, and the day after to-morrow he will hold the great durbar at Lucknow. The in- vitations to us to witness it are earnest, but the entire press of India is warning us to leave the country before the intense heat comes on. Earl Mayo ' has won our grateful jegard by the studious care he 'On the 8th of May, ISII, this wise and benevolent statesman, able magistrate, and genial friend, received his death at the hands of a Mohammedan political prisoner, while on a tour of inspection of the penitentiary at Port Blair, in the Andaman Islands. Our cxci'llent friend Lord Napier, as Governor of Madras, succeeded him as Viceroy of India, ad interim. »*5 478 BRITISH INDIA. has practised for our sfitety, comfort, and instruction, during our travels in the country. Mr. Seward is highly gratiHed in having had this opportunity to renew his acknowledgments, and to assure the viceroy of the evidences ho iinds everywhere of tho success of his administration. We take our departure to-night, and with it our regrets that wo have not language to express to Sir William Muir and his fainily our appreciation and gratitude for all their kipdncss. SS*-!! «r I it. I* 4«. 111;! turn Ilia*. • I •J I ■41 ■5' >»* ■'■■♦'! Juhbuljjoo)', April Sth. — We left Allahabad at midnight and opened our eyes this morning on a broad table-land of the Via- dhya Mountains, the range which, traversing llindostan from east to west, parts the tributaries of the Ganges from those of the Nerbudda and the Indus. These mountains, better known in early geography as the north border of the Deccan, intersect the lot'tj Ghauts which stretch from Cape Comorin quite up to the Iliniala- yas. This region is less densely inhabited and more sparingly cul- tivated than the plain of the Ganges. Aboriginal tribes are still existing here, which have survived all the political changes of two thoi ^and years, and still retain their primitive languages, re- ligions, and customs. Jubbulpoor exhibits much industrial activity. It is for West- ern India what Ogden is for the western region of the United States. The railways from Bombay, Madras, and Calcutta, meet here. Mr. Grant, commissioner for the province, has received us with the same British hospitality and courtesies that have made our sojourn in India so agreeable. In this inclement sea- son few Europeans travel even on the railways during the day, and none go abroad in any other way except at night. Nothing remains for us, therefore, on our arrival, but to enjoy a most wel- come sleep. April 9th. — Carriages were in waiting at our door last evening, and we drove through the pretty suburb of the town, and into the open country. Night had fully set in when we reached a wooded glen. As we descended from the carriages, two grim elephants A NIGHT VOYAGE. 479 ive lanffuajires, ro- kneeled before us. These animals are used instead of ambulances iu the army. A rough board or pannier is swung on cither side of the elephant, with a swinging stirrup below it. The rider is secured to his seat, if ho need, by a ro[)e round his waist, which is fastened to the animal's head. Our elephants, though docile enough, were young and impatient. They tramped four miles in half an hour, in the dark, along a narrow path through the jungle, fording a broad and deep stream on the way, greatly to our terror. At the end of the march, we stood at the door of a dak bungalow, hanging half-way down a rocky precipice, with the Nerbudda meandering at its base. We rested an hour in the bungalow, and then with the aid of guides made our way cautiously three lumdred and fifty feet down, and took our seats in a flat-bottomed boat. Patient Hindoos applied themselves noiselessly to the oars, and the voyage which we began, though dull at first, soon became one of absorbing interest. The Nerbudda here forces its passage through a mountain of white marble, and is twisted right and left by ledges projecting from either bank. The deep, dark river moves in its serpentine channel without perceptible current. The summits of the banks, changing position with every stroke of the oars, are covered with forest-trees, over the tops of which are seen the pin- nacles of innumerable Hindoo temples, raised here by a sentiment of superstitious reverence for scenery so romantic and beautiful. The river has the breadth of the Delaware at the famous Gap. The waning moon now rose over our heads. First, the one white rocky bank received the silvery light, while the other was in dark shadow, then the other, and then, for only an instant, both shores. Xo^v the temples and tree-tops intercepted the rays, then the luminary was reflected entire by the dear, still waters. The glis- tening, winding precipices, now in light, and now in shade, took on the shapes of castles, palaces, cathedrals, and temples. It seemed as if we were passing beneath the ruins of some vast capital like Benares. A dead silence prevailed, except that the owl, dis- turbed by our coming, poured forth his sad complaints from the overhanging rocks, and the jackal shrieked his despairing cry of hunger. All the while the river was smooth, and alternately black r1 34 480 BRITISH INDIA. "ao.- ««, it '», SI III' tilt ^ «1 I or shimmering in the moonlight. Suddenly our barge trembled, the stream beneath it brt.ce into rapids, and we heard coming up before us the rumbling sound of a cataract. The voyage was finished. Returning by the same gentle beating of the oars, mo studied under a more constant light all these enchantments in detail. The moon withdrew her light as we climbed the rugged bank and reached the bungalow. Then, laying aside our ambition for elephantine pomp, we contentedly took our seats in a jaunting- car, before which were harnessed two little white bullocks, leaving the elephants to follow with the servants. Our driver had an odd way of inciting the animals. Whenever they stopped, he had only to pull their tails, and away they went over hill and dale, down tlie crooked ravine, and through the perilous ford, with such speed tliat they reached the station half an hour before the stately elephants, who came up at their appointed time. Here we resumed our car- riages. During the livelong night, wild beasts held high carnival around us on our homeward way. Jackals filled the air with tlieir howls, and wild-boars dashed across the road, scarcely taking oare to avoid the hoofs of our horses. It is almost enough to raise a doubt of the unity of the hu- man race, when one is called to contrast the perverse tenderness of the Hindoos toward animals, with the vigorous war which all other races make to subjugate or exterminate them. This tender- ness is a fruit of tliT national Pythagorean philosophy, whose element is transmigration, and teaches that the souls of men, after death, enter the bodies of animals. To what height of absurdity has this idoa been carried ! The Thugs, now happily suppressed, found in it a religions warrant for plundering and strangling men, divid- ing the spoils with their altar of Kali. No Hindoo can bo induced to pursue the tiger, the lion, or even the cobra de capello. It must have been in Ilindostan that Mr. Darwin found his theory, whitli derives man from the monkey. The Hindoo farmer not only allows the simian race to feed on his growing crops and fruits, but also to glean in the harvest field. We felicitated the gardener at Puttecala on his fine crop of oranges. He responded that the monkeys would carry ofi* the largest portion of the fruit. Wc THIEVING MONKEYS. 481 barge trembled, leard coming up 'he voyage was of tlie oars, wo inehantmcnts in ibed the rugged ide our ambition its in a jaunting- bulloeks, leaving iriver had an odd iped, he had only id dale, down the h such speed that stately elephants, resumed our car- leld high carnival the air with their ircely taking care unity of the hu- verse tenderness us war which all m. This tendcr- lilosophy, whose juls of men, after it of absurdity has suppressed, found gling men, divid- jo can be induced capello. It must his theory, whieli farmer not only )ps and fruits, but I the gardener at ponded that the f the fruit. We aslced him why he did not drive them off, " "We do frighten them away, but they come back again." " Why do you not kill them ? " " Oh ! " he replied, " if a man should kill one of those filching fellows, a hundred of them would come together, and they would never leave that man alive." TUS NGRDDDDA. b CHAPTER XV. J! ■ n •■ss *2* I*, m ■ it • « 19 n'^ n «i 111 ' I Hi ("* BOMBAY. The Ghaut Mountains. — A Cosmopolitan City. — The Natives of Bombay. — A Mixed Pop. ulation. — Chinese, Siamese, Javanese, Cingalese, Sikh, Afghan, and Cashmerian.— The Races of the South and the North, of the East and the West. — Parsee Customs. — Parsee Religion. — Hindoo, Mohammedan, and Parsee Disposal of the Dead.— Ad- miral Cockburn. — The Great Heat. — An Excursion to Elephanta. United States Consulate, Bombay, April l^th. — Wc arrived liere on the 11th. The two mountain-ranges of the west coast of In- dia, called the Eastern and Western Ghauts, resemble our own Alleghanies. Their loftiest peaks are several thousand feet high. Although our journey from Jubbulpoor lay across both ranges, the highest plateau we crossed was two thousand feet. The largest cotton-fields of India are found in the valleys of the Nerbudda and the Taptec. Marvellous engineering has been practised in bring- ing the railway down from the plain of Nerbudda to the valley of the Taptce, which carries the ocean-tide up to the once great and now not unimportant port of Surat, one hundred and sixty miles north of Bombay. Our first impression on arriving here was that Bombay is more cosmopolitan than any other city in India. We experienced a feel- ing almost of regret when we left the cosy railway-car, wliicli, for nearly a month, had been our rolling home. The stars and stripes were floating over the consulate not far from the railway station, and Mr. Farnham, the consul here, was awaiting our arrival. The Governor of Bombay, Sir Seymour Fitzgerald, sent a secretary to POPULATION OF BOMBAY. 483 Bombay.— A Mixed Pop- Than, and Cashmerian.- West. — Parsee Customs, tposal of the Dead.— Ad- lanta. ,. "Wg arrived here e west coast of In- resemble our own tlionsand feet high. )ss both ranges, the feet. The largest the Kerbudda and practised in bring- [da to the valley of the once great and |red and sixty miles lat Bombay is more s experienced a feel- llway-car, wliicb, for Dhe stars and stripes I the railway station. jig our arrival. The I, sent a secretary to tender us the hospitalities of Government House, and we found, also awaiting us, that eminent native gentleman, Sir Jamsetjee Jejeebhoy, with his three sons. Although the city of Bombay stands on an island, the railway-traveller is not made aware of its separation from the main-land. The terraced shore of the island looks across a bay, studded with lesser islands, and capacious enough for the commerce of the world. Lofty promontories, stretching out from the coast, divide the harbor into three not unequal basins. The native population here, more than in Madras and Calcutta, have engaged in European commerce, and they have also in a considerable degree come to adopt Western usages and customs. Indeed, it needs a close examination to distinguish be- tween the streets and dwellings occupied by the natives and those inliabited by Europeans. The cocoa-nut palm seems a universal favorite for purposes of shade and ornament. It embowers and almost conceals the homes of the million inhabitants of Bombay. Tlie railroad system, recently completed, which connects the city with Calcutta, as well as with the peninsula and the Punjab, has enabled Bombay to supplant Calcutta as the gate of India. The people of Calcutta are sharply divided between the native Hindoo population and the resident Europeans. Bombay, on the contrary, has a mixed population. You see this the moment you enter the Bazaar, for so is called the part of the city devoted to native trade. There tlie inevitable and versatile Chinaman — who is seaman, mer- chant, and banker — the effeminate Siamese, Javanese, and Cinga- lese of the south, mingle with the sturdy Sikh, Afghan, and Casb- racrian of the north. The native Mahratta stalks with haughty bearing through the streets, followed by the Portuguese half-castes of Goa. The black native of Madagascar is here, with the Persian, the Arab, the Abyssinian, the Syrian, the Turk, and the Greek from the Levant. Here in Bombay, moreover, Asiatics aspire to and gain high commercial rank, and social and political positions, under the liberal patronage of the government. The Parsee mer- chant vies with the educated Hindoo in establishing charity-schools and hospitals, and both alike obtain seats in the Legislative Coun- cil. AVe have come even thus early under equal obligations to emu- 484 BRITISH INDIA. « i«^ IS :^|5 i >'« % Jl « it I ! ' •t» 1 1' ;:! li) '■• 'i! ' ' •<* \\\* ' :3 fits -i;* 'il** lous members of the two emulous classes. "We were entertained at dinner on the 10th at Government House by Sir Seymour Fitzijer- ald and his mother. Some fifty ladies and gentlemen, all Enf,']isli, including the Bishop of Bombay, the members of the Legislative Council, and many officers of the army, were present. Though tlie dining-hall is furnished after the English fashion, the house is a spacious bungalow of one story, like most such structures in the tropics, with an encircling veranda as wide as the house. Our entertainment yesterday was equally hospitable, bnt of a very dif- ferent character. Manockjee Cursetjee, our Parsee host, with his two sons, stood at the basement-door of a square house of four iottv stories. Every apartment of the house looks out upon either the sea or the city. Although it was not yet dark, every chamber was brilliantly illuminated. "We thought, at first, that this stylo of dwelling belonged exclusively to the Parsee, but we have found out since that the Hindoo emulates the Parsee in the height of tlic house and the brilliancy of its lights. The Parsee's palace ali'ords ev^ery convenience and comfort except the necessary easy staircase. We declined the offer of being carried up by chairs, and ascended instead the corkscrew which leads to the foui'th story, where we were received in a grand salon by the accomplished daughters of our host. They were dressed exquisitely in the native costume. except that they were guilty of offence against the national sense of propriety by covering their feet with shoes, and their hands M'itli gloves. Manockjee Cursetjee, Esquire, is a Parsee of good ihniily. native here, who acquired an English education, and studied law in the English university. Having obtained a judicial appointment from the government, and discharged its functions for souio years with ability and success, he visited England and trr veiled exten- sively throughout Europe, being everywhere received in hiirii circles. His daughters, who have been instructed by En,irlisli ^ox- ernesses, have also travelled in Europe, and they are understood tn bo the first Hindoo ladies who have done so. His two sons were educated at Oxford and Cambridge. The ladies assured ns tli.it when travelling in Europe they adopted the "Western costume, hut thev conform here to the Oriental habits and the dress of their PAKSEE CUILDREX. iSi people. The gentlemen make a compromise on the clothes ques- tion. They were dressed at dinner faultlessly in European fashion, |)iit had on scarlet-velvet caps ; while the father, throughout the entire evening, wore that strange, uncomfortable, ill-looking, fun- nel-shaped hat, by which the disciple of Zoroaster is known, and has been known a thousand years, wherever he has been seen throughout the whole world. Probably asceticism is inseparable t'roni devotion ; certainly it has revealed itself at some time in the progress of every religion. Moreover, asceticism has always seized 4'' I .1 !■ PARSEB cniLDUEN. upon the head to make it bear witness to the principle of humilia- tion. In Christian countries, the Friends and Shakers prescribe icrtain rules for wearing thp hair and for the shape of the hat. The Roman Catholic orders, regular and voluntary, do the sanu^ thing, though not precisely in the same way. The Buddhist no liss lli;m the Dominican requires the bare and shaven head. At the very foundation of the Christian Church, Paul made it a point "f discipline that man ought not to "cover his head," nor women ^4 486 BRITISH INDIA. :^- I" I?- ■85 ^^. Hi ; nt til* to we:iv " broidered hair." So rigid are the Parsees on the same subject that it is not lawful for one of the sect, man, woman, or child, to have an uncovered head within-doors or out-of-doors, bv day or by night, awake or asleep. Perhaps this observation mav not be thought entirely worthless, since it shows how inseparabh- manners are allied to morals. The intelligent Parsee insists that he worships not the sun nor iirc, but that he adores one Supreme Spiritual God, though he admits that he reveres fire and the sun as an identical manifestation of the Deity. He does not claim, Iiom-- cver, that the unenlightened members of the sect make, or are capa- ble of making, this distinction. It is certain that every evcnitir.', wherever we may be, whether on the strand or on the terrace, we see the Parsee stop, stand still, and stretch forth his hands to tlie retiring god of day, in a posture of devout adoration. The Parsee temples are singularly plain. They contain nothing which is es- teemed sacred except the fires which burn on the altars, and wliicli, according to their belief, have never been extinguished. Thoir reli- gion does not forbid animal food, nor are they divided into castes. but the sect has uaconsciously taken upon itself the Asiatic idea of excluding women from society, and the Hindoo practice of prema- ture marriage. Notwithstanding their accommodation in tliis respect to the customs of those around them, Parsees are more intelligent, inquiring, and enterprising, than any other class of j society in the East. In all foreign countries, they bear the charac- ter of honorable and liberal merchants. Here, where they arc nt home, their honor is sometimes questioned, but their enterprise U universally conceded. Their light complexion and regular features prove them to be of a higher Caucasian type than the Hindoos. In our drive yesterday, we passed a gate which disclosed an open area filled with the blaze of Hindoo pyres. "VYe stopped to inquire into the form of the ceremony. Religion as well as ciistoia requires that the nearest of kin shall apply the torch and watcli the flames. The devout Bramin does not doubt that tins aet of piety performed by a son secures an instant opening of the i];ati> of paradise to the departed parent. They tell us that until lately these burning ghauts were open on all sides, that they were fouiul MODES OF BURIAL. 4s; offensive, and that the British Government made strenuous eflbrts to induce tlie Bramin to discontinue the practice of rcmation, or at least to remove the scene to a more secluded place. The only change, however, which could be secured, was the consent that a wall might be erected around the ghaut. A large enclosure adjoins the ghauts. It is a Mohammedan cemetery. Their monuments and graves are not unlike our own. Last of all, we came to the Parsee's home of the dead. It is a hill, enclosed with a very high wall. On the summit there is a dense (jrove of lofty palms ; in the centre of this grove, and high above its foliage, rises the " Tower of Silence." The tower encloses and pro- tects a dark, deep, open well, and across the top of the tower is a tlrmly-fixed grating of iron bars. The dead body is laid upon this iron grate, the flesh to bo the food of the birds of the air; the bones, lis they fall asunder from exposure and decay, to drop into the pro- miscnons pit below. The Parsee who was our guide protests that this giving up the remains of friends and kindred to the vulture, the eagle, and the raven, seems horrible to him ; wherefore, when he was not long ago called upon to deposit the remains first of a wife, then of a daughter, he protected them with a strong metallic screen, so that the remains were left to natural decomposition from the sacred heat of the sun, and were absorbed in the pure atmosphere which he enlightens. We, of course, commended this refinement of his, although, to our minds, the truest mode of disposing of the body from which the spirit has departed is " earth to earth, ashes to ashes, dust to dust." April \A:th. — When in ^Northern India, we hastened our journey as much as possible to meet Admiral Cockburn, who had tele- graphed us that he was waiting with the Forte, to convey Mr. Seward and his party up the Persian Gulf. On our arrival here, all classes of Europeans, Americans, and natives alike, protested that the season is too far advanced. As it so often happens at such times, travellers and letters have come down from Muscat, dcscrib- inii; the heat there as absolutely frightfid. They add that the small- pox is raging throughout the country, that a famine is extensively 'm 4S8 BRITISH INDIA. it. <«. • an ... ill if" 1); ■m If.' ■ I itla%, prevailing, and finally that insurrection and civil war have brolcen out. Admiral Cockburn, prudent as he is generous, has been de- terred by these representations. Under his advice, therefore, we have relinquished the cherished purpose of visiting Muscat, Bagdad and the ruins of Nineveh and Babylon. • "VVe must pass by the many recherche entertainments given us by British residents in their beautiful villas on Malabar Hill, a place worth a graphic description. But if we neglect contemporaries, we cannot afford to be thought- less of the ancients. Yesterday we made a steam-yacht excursion in the harbor, with several Indies and gentlemen, among them the eminent Mahratta physician and scholar, Dr. Bluiu Daji. The sail disclosed to us the beautiful environs of Bombay, especially the harbor and islands. The landing at Elephanta Island is represented by travellers as very difficult, but the Duke of Edinburgh was here, and, of course, the caves of Elephanta must be shown, at whatever cost, to the scion of England's royal line. In this emergency, the municipality of Bombay issued bonds and erected a convenient pier. We, alien republicans, now landed on that very wharf, not unmind- ful of our obligations to the Council of Bombay, or of our good fortune in coming after, and not before, Victoria's sailor son. We ascended an easy flight of stone steps to a plateau one hundred and fifty feet above the sea. This esplanade as well as the entire island is deeply shaded with the beautiful, round-topped Palmyra palm. A decrepit Irish soldier, with his family, in a bamboo sliantv, thatched with banana and palm leaves, keeps watch and ward over the place. Passing to the centre of the plateau and turning to the right, we confronted a work of human art, gigantic and marvelous. It is a subterranean temple. The builders, beginning half-way up the mountain declivity, and cutting down perpendicularly, have removed the mountain-face to the depth of thirty feet, and to the width of three hundred feet. The perpendicular wall thus disclosed is of basalt. This rock, they have hewn and chiselled away to the very centre of the mountain, and wrought it into a temple with perfect architectural forms and just proportions. The excavatioa consists of four chambers, the central one is majestic with gateways, 1 war have brolcen ous, has been de- dee, therefore, we g Muscat, Bagdad, ainments given us 1 Malabar Hill, a [ford to be thougbt- im-yaelit excursion I, among them the iiiu Daji. The sail 'bay, especially the sland is represented Idinburgh was here, shown, at whatever this emergency, the d a convenient pier, wharf, not unmind- ay, or of our good ia's sailor son. We fiu one hundred and as the entire island 3ped Palmyra palm. a bamboo sliantv, vatch and ward over 1 and turning to the mtic and marvelous. [Tinning half-way up jrpendicularly, have lirty feet, and to the ir wall thus disclosed jhiselled away to the into a temple with ms. The excavation jestic with gateways, ^-•♦S! 11: If W' 9 m i t;,J4 i: M' ■•■;(( jii Etlil ' i i 1 1 '^ m !k irJ (C 490 BlilTISII INDIA. it \ i?" - S ■1- >■» a 'f -V 11 .« ! «i 1. J' * i ■ Is < ■|i I.' • |ti« abutments, porches, columns, pilasters, cornices, and vaulted ceil- ings, as complete and perfect as if, instead of having been carved in the rock, they had been detached from it, framed and erected on the ground. While no architectural element is omitted, all are per- fectly finished. The broad pavement is as level and smooth as tluit of the rotunda at Washington. The ceiling needs no preparation to receive either fresco or gilding. The dome is spherical, while the columns upon which it rests, or seems to rest, have regular basts, bands, llutings, and capitals, though all alike are shaped from tlie undisturbed rock. We even thought it necessary to examine the lintels of the doors to see if they were not detached pieces of tlio rock itself. Standing in the porch or Avithin the temple, and look- ing inward, you confront the farther wall. In its centre, a deep recess twenty feet square, reaching from floor to roof, is tjurniounted by a bold arch. Within this recess is a colossal figure, or combina- tion of figures, the triune god : Brahma representing the creative power, Vishnu the preserving power, and Siva the destroyini,^ power. Each of the figures is twice the human size. Eralima is looking forward in an attitude of calmness and contemplation ; at his feet is a crouching lion. Vishnu rests on a bed of lot'io -flowers. Siva in one hand wields a drawn sword, and in the other holds a cobra ready to strike. The gigantic group is completed l»y the accessories of dwarfs and inferior gods. The ceiling of the r&^ess is decorated with a crowd of not less than fifty or sixty figures, sucii as, if found in a Christian temple, would be taken as represeiitinir angels. Eveiy figure within the niche has a distinctive character, and is not deficient in force. But this group within the recess is only one group, thfe entire temple being a gallery full of like statuary. On either side of the principal hall or temple are lesser chambers or chapels, and the walls of these are covered with a]k=- gorical works, illustrating the transformations, incantations, battles, triumphs, marriages, and miracles of the several members of tlie Braminical trinity. It is the opinion of Dr. Bhau Daji that this temple was excavated about twelve liundred years ago. No won. der that it remains complete in its forms and proportions ! >'u storm can penetrate it, and no flood can invaJe it. Even the eartk- CAVES OF ELEPIIANTA. 401 (|ualce has spared it. Not so the demon of religious zeal. The in- tolerant followers of the liilse prophet mutilated these heathen faces and forms in the fourteenth century, and the no less fanatical Por- tuguese, who came in the wake of the Mohammedans, finding the task of defacing with the hammer too slow, brought a battery (u cannon to the temple-door, and battered the stone gods. What hiiinan sentiment is so strong as that of devotion ? The passions of love, hate, and pride, have covered the surface of tlie earth with their monuments. But here, in this cave of Elephanta, devotion lias written its sublimest faith in the very centre of the earth it- self ! The chamber which is at the right of the temple, as you look inward, contains a spring of pure, ever-flowing water. The Bramins think it possesses a healing virtue, and it is among their fond conceits that the purifying water comes through a subterrane- ous passage from the Ganges. However this may be, the Irish custodian of tii? temple assured us that it is the " sv. atest wather for dhrinking hi all India." When we looked at his suspicious blackened eye and damaged nose, we regretted for his sake that he does not confine himself to " that same." The cave-temple of Elephanta is by no means a solitary monu- ment. There are two others scarcely less spacious and elaborate on the same small island. In other parts of this coast, as well as in Ceylon, there are not only excavated temples of Brahma, but also of Buddha, of dimensions so vast and execution so marvellous as to throw these of Elephanta into the shade. m CHAPTER XVI. •Bg- •■*• In 11 ■ft 11 la**. t 1 •n •■1« ^iV EXCURSION TO GO A. A Voyage on the Coast of Malabar. — A Perilous Predicament. — Dubious Navigalinn,— Situation of CJoa. — Official Courtesies. — History of Goa. — The Old City. — St Fiiuicis Xavier. — Miraculous Cures. — Character of Xavicr. — Public Institutions. — Tin; (ioy. crnor's Villa. — Historical Reminiscences. — A Goa Poet. — A Cordial Farewell. Of the Coast of Malabar, April 19, 1871. — "We weve in u strait on Friday last. An excursion down this coast to ancient Goa, tlio first eifectivc European settlement in India, and always the c'ii])itiil of the Portuguese Indian possessions, promised a pleasure not to lie lost, and seemed a study not io be omitted. But Mr. Seward liad engaged to dine with the Byculla Club of Bombay to-morrow, and the semi-weekly packet to Goa could not be relied upon. Witli twenty-four hours' knowledge of this dilemma, the Govei'nnient fitted out a revenue-cutter lying in commission. The captain wa? unacquainted with the route, and an extra one was appointed; crew, furniture, and provisions, were extemporized, and, to make assurance of an exact return doubly sure, we sailed on Saturday at sunset. The Camel, besides her proper British colors, was courte- ously invested with the stars and stripes, and we were accom- panied by Mr. Farnham, the United States consul. Proceeding merrily, with a speed of eight knots, we began to inquire about dinner and sleeping arrangements. Sea-sickness came earlier than dinner. The cabins were spacious enough, but unavailable. The ARRIVAL AT GOA. 403 —Dubious Navigation,— le Old City. — St Fnimis Institutions. — Tin; (!(iv- . Cordial Tarcwcll. iiVc wove in a btrait \,o ancient Goa, the always tlic capital jleasure not to lie at Mr. Seward had )ay to-morrow, and elied upon. "NVitli the Govei-nment The captain wa? e was appointed; ized, and, to make ed on Saturday at 'olors, was courte- d we were accom- nsul. Proceeding to inquire about ? came earlier thnit unavailable. The vessel sat low in the water, and the ports were necessarily closed, the thermometer standing at ninety dt»<;rees. Cabins were impro- vised on deck by means of ilup])ing sails. These ])rivations gave the voyage something of the zest of a picnic, and we endured them with the resolution to enjoy discomforts, usually practised on such occasions. Our double captaincy unanimously decided, the night being dark, that wo should push directly out to sea. We pushed so far that it was not until noon on Sunday that we came back in sight (•f land. We proceeded until nightfall in full view of the Western (irhants. Nt>twithstanding the loss of time during the previous night, we found ourselves on Sunday noon so fir advanced that our Siamese captain determined to " slow down," that is to say, "slaeken up," so as to avoid reaching Goa before daylight the next morning. With the pleasing intimation that we should leave the ship at sunrise, wc retired to our mattresses at nine o'clock, the crumbling Portuguese forts on the Goa "hore looming up on the coast, and the disdained Bombay packet just l)efore us, leading the way. Our sleep was "murdered" by a mutiny among the crew, which was only quelled when the leader was tied up at the fore- castle. Monday's dawn, instead of the summons to go ashore, brought blank consternation ! We were not at anchor in the har- bor, but once more afloat on the sea, no land in sight, neither of our navigator^ knew where, and, stranger still, neither knew how wc came there. Sunrise gave not only light but an unmistakable object to steer by. Joy radiated from the faces of the captains ; and, tor ourselves, nothing but our early training in the first of the ten commandments which came down from Sinai, prevented us from becoming Parsces and worshipping the fiery orb on the spot. We steered due east, and the first land-mark showed that we had left Goa twenty miles behind. We made it, however, though not without peril from hidden rocks, at eleven o'clock in the morning. If tl^e gallant officers who had been waiting for us twelve long hours, in their tight, uncomfortable uniforms, were surprised to sec us coming through a dangerous southern channel, as if from Mau- ritius, instead of the safe northern one from Bombay, their aston- .IJ.I !,-( 404 BRITISH INDIA. « •«»■, I*: '^ Id!. '* '» - I 1* '5^ 1 ! ■i«i 1 It! 1i - 4<i 1:: isliment did not exceed that of our two commanders, who until this very time are unable to account for their error of navigation. Tlie native pilot, they say, disobeyed their directions ; " there was sud- denly a strong outward current unknown in this sea before ; " more- over, " there is indicated in the chart just there an iron mountain, which deflected the needle ; " moreover and furthermore, '• the ship's compass, useless in harbor movements, had not been ad- Justed for this outside navigation." Two rivers, the Narwar and the Mormugoa, form a deep estuary, and the island of Goa, upon which the town is built, rises out of this estuary very nnich like Manhattan Island at the conflu- ence of the Hudson and East Rivers in the bay of New York. The green banks of both rivers are crowned with fortiiications, which are \»ell preserved, and with churches and convents, none of wliich are dilapidated, but of which some have been converted to secular uses. On reaching the bar we were boarded by the officer of the port, and delaved until the fort on shore delivered a salute in honor of Mr. Seward. Our flags dipped in acknowledgment, and an hour later we came to anchor before a quaint and picturesque little city. An extensive fortification standing immediately on the wharf is now the palace of the governor-general. The Iniildings, unique tliouali })lain, seem to speak from their open windows and graceful bal- conies a hospitable welcome. An infantry battalion was drawn up on the esplanade, and the river-shores were crowded with a swarthy but well-dressed and gentle-looking people. Mr. Seward was con- veyed by the g( vernor-gcnerars staff in a well-manned barge to the other shore, where he was welcomed by the Secretary of State, and received with military honors. The band employed on this occasion, although it consists exclusively of natives, excels any wo have heard in India. Western arts and customs eeem capricious in taking root in these strange countries. On our journey tn Peking, we noticed that the band of Admiral Rodgers's flag-ship was composed chiefly of dark natives of Goa. They e.xcciitod better than any other performers the " Charta," as they called the beautiful national air of Portugal. Associated as it is in our rcc- PRESENT CONDITION OF GOA. 405 5, who imtil tills ivigation. The ' there was siul- bcfore ; " moro- i iron moimtaiii, fthennore, '' the id not been ad- ta, form a deep v\-n is built, rises ind at the conilu- New York. The i-tiiications, which its, none of which .verted to sccidar officer of the port. salute in honor of lent, and an hour urcsque little city. n the wharf is now gs, nnique though and graceful bal- lion was drawn up cd with a swarthy r. Seward was cou- i-nianned barge to Secretary of State, employed on thi? ives, excels any we us ceem capricious )n our journey to Rodgers's flag-ship They executed as they called the as it is in our rec- ollections of those cold and tedious travels, it was peculiarly pleas- ing when that noble hymn burst upon us from the instruments of a full band of the same sympathetic race, in their own tropical home. Captain Major's family, the only American one residing here, divided the care of our entertainment with the governor-general, the Viscount de Sao Januario. The Goa where we were received so kindly is only by deriva- tion the Goa of history. Ancient Goa stood eight miles higher, on the same left bank of the Narwar. Founded by Albuquer(]ue, the most renowned of all the Portuguese admirals, after Vasco de Gama, it was laid out on an imperial scale, and surrounded by a Avail and fortifications, which rendered it for more than a century impregna- ble. An immense population gathered there. It contained the mag- nificent palace of the viceroy, the college, the hospital, the archiepis- copal see and the halls of the Inquisition, while on every attractive height was built a church, monasterv, convent, or chdicau. Armies two hundred thousand strong were repelled from its walls, and imposing embassies from the barbaric kings and ju'inees of the East trod its spacious and shaded streets. One hundred and fifty years auo, it was found to be unhealthful and was abandoned. Altliou<rh life has since disappeared from that once-busy stage, some remnants (if its activity and glory remain. AVe proceeded in carriages over a firm and well-preserved causeway, which once resounded with the tramp of pageants and of armies, to the ruined city. By the road- side and in the neighboring jungie, moss-covered monumental crosses, decorated daily by pious hands with fresh flowers, indicate scenes of violence and suflering, perhaps of miracles or martyrdom, enacted here. Cocoa-nut groves and mango-orchards now shade grounds once covered by bazaars and hostclries. Here and there a deserted palace, closed but not yet in ruins, testifies of wealth and luxury passed away, and the curious touri t is warned not to pene- trate its mouldering courts and tangled gardens, lest he come un- aware upon the most venomous serpents of India. Of a hundred religious houses, only one convent remains, and that has a lone sisterhood of three nuns. A high, arched gate, overgrown with creepers, is all that exists of the viceregal palace. AVliilc the col- 496 BRITISH INDIA. cs- «<•. ^z '*n •11^ fan •»,,. «s: «.!» 01 ■ i1 n ' i;^ 1 •t ! i» i <« •»v ( t^ s if"' • 4 ^ a i 1 ( ( :« '■* It' It;* lege and hospital have been renewed in the new town, liappily no trace of the Inquisition remains in either city. The Government has kept the cathedral and churches in repair. Tliey are built in the style of the sixteenth century, and, though fine structures, they arc less imposing and costly than the churches built by the Spaniards of the same period in Mexico and South America. They are, never- theless, far superior to religious edifices in the United States. The Church of Bom Jesus contains tlie tomb of St. Francis Xavier. It will be remembered that he was associated with Igna- tius Loyola in establishing the Society of Jesus, and that he came out on his apostolate to India, even before the papal allowance of the new order was granted. Perhaps this church was the first of the many thousands which have arisen in all parts of the woild, under the labors of that mysterious comnmnity which has been su indomitable and indefatigable while encountering so many vicis?i- tudes. The ma'jsoleum is an oblong pedestal of Carrara marble, ten feet higli, panelled with bronze bas-reliefs, representing the miracles of the saint. Upon this pedestal is a sarcophagus of gilded copper, which contains the embalmed remains, and is enclosed in an elaborately-wrought case of silver. The Grand-duke of Tus- cany only expressed the reverence of Catholic Europe for Xavlor, in presenting this exquisite monument to the Churchof the Jesuits, which is so closely identified with his labors. The tomb stands in a vaulted chamber, the walls of which are graced with admirable devotional paintings, but unfortunately it is so small and dark tli;U not only the pictures but the monument itself is deprived of its just effect. The sarcophagus is opened at long intervals by jicr- mis^ion of the King of l*ortugal, and on these occasions deserted Goa is reanimated by hundreds of thousands of natives, assembled from all parts of Asia. It may well be believed, as we are told. that not only the fiiithful Catholics, but even the unconverted Hin- doos, confidently expect supernatural effects tv> follow from tlie Contact then allowed with the sacred remains. India is filled witli traditions of the saint, and the Jesuit writers have carefully collected, collated, and published them. According to these tradi- tions, St. Francis Xavier not only relieved the poor with money TOMB OF ST. FRANCIS XAVIER. 497 ■n, liappib' "^ 3 Government ey arc built in cructures, tliey r tlie Spaniards hey are, never- d States. of St. Francis atcd with Igna- id that he came al allowance of was the first of ts of the world, lich has been so so many vicissi- Carrara marble, I'epresenting tlio »phagus of gilded id is enclosed in nd-dnhc of Tus- irope for Xavler, •ch of the Jesuit?. ^e tomb stands in with admirable lull and dark that deprived of its intervals by per- iccasions dcsertcil atives, assembled , as we arc told, mconverted 11 in- follow from the India is filled ^vitll ■s have carehdly ng to these tradi- )oor with money brougbt out from the depths of the sea, healed the sick, made the dumb to speak, cured the lame and blind, cast out devils, and raised the dead, by simple invocation of the mercy of God, hut he performed more of those miracles than the Gospels record (it the Saviour, and his chosen twelve apostles. A resident of (k):i, reliable for intelligence and candor, told us that, when the sarcophagus was last opened, a lady well-known to him became the subject of a supposed miracle. Having been hopelessly lame from birth, she solicited parental leave to attend the ceremony and touch the venerated dead. Her skeptical parents refused ; she per' isted, and in the moment of contact she became whole, and so remains. Our informant of course ascribes this extraordinary cure to the influence of her excited imagination. But the homage paid to the memory of Xavier may well be I'egarded without cavil or regret even by those whose education obliges them to reject his alleged miracles. He surpassed his sj^ir- itual contemporaries in faith, hope, charity, patience, courage, zeal, and perseverance. lie committed no crime, inculged no vices, and though he tcdera^.ed African slavery and the Inquisition in the East, it must bo remembered they were the errors of his tiuie, and he was less severe against the recusants of the Church than in self-condem- nation. Jt was his noble maxim that the Gospel is advanced more 1)}' the blood of martyrs than by the sweat of missionaries. ITc found India wholly a pagan and Mohammedan land, and by his teacliing and example, using neitlier force nor fraud, he made more ('hristian converts than can be found on Indian soil at the present day. It was not, however, for St. Francis Xavier, nor the Jesuits, nor the Catholic Church of tlie sixteenth century, to bring India and the East into Christian civilizat'on. It must be sadly admitted that this renuiius yet to be done. It is to be hoped, however, that tlio great work has begun in the hund)le schools for native men and women which have been opened mnler missionary auspices in various parts of the country. A dinner at the palace closed the day. Although it was at- tended by the i)rovincial court, and supported by a military band, it was animated and cordial. The governor was elocjuent in his ■t 498 BRITISH INDIA. • ')« !: lift. S'. ! ft 4 1 *l < '»i 1 ■•ii 1 ! ( I!. 41 ill 31 ii;: >««^ ir 1 I; admiration of the United States. A tlirone, wliicli stands in tliu grand salon, altliougli it lias no occupant — tlic viceregal dignitv having been abolished — is still respected on state occasions. AVliiU interested ns more were the (jueer old portraits of viceroys, gov- ernors, generals, admirals, and missionaries. Need I say that wc carefully studied the lineaments of Yasco de Gama, Dias, Cabral. Alureyda, Albuquerque, of Xavier and Loyola? An artistic per- formance of Chopin by a young secretary enchained us until a lato hour. On the 18th we visited the public institutions. The military force consists of two battalions of artillery arid two of infanti-v. maintained at an annual cost of two hundred thousand dollars. These seem quite enough for a territory of only a thousand square miles, with a population of four hundred thousand. The military academy trains one hundred and fifty cadets, throiiirli a seven years' course. The garrison barracks and httspital arr excellent. AVe looked into the finance department. The reve- nue is nx hundred thousand dollars. The salaries are low, and there is no complaint of taxes. The college of science and nicili cine is conducted by eleven professors, several of whom are natives of Goa, and is well attended. There are four newspapers, three ut which are conducted by natives, and all in the Portuguese languaac. One-third of *'.e population is Tloman Catholic, the rest are Hin- doos, Mahrattas, and Mohammedans. The good order and perfect cleanl'uess which pervade the little city explain the curious fa t that ii supplies the foreign residents of all India with their 1)cv-t household servants. "\Vc drove with the governor to his suburban villa on the mm- mit of the cape wliich divides the two rivers. The j)al;ice w.s formerly a monastery. Its chapels are now reception-rooms aid Innqueting-halls. Its cloisters arc card and billiard monis. Tl:c garden supi)lying vegetables, fruits, and fiowers, is still retainc*!. The site Avas chosen with the customary sagacity of religions com- munities, who seldom fail to find material comforts while tliov se- cure the solitude needfid for meditation, and natural associatiitr.s which sustain enthusiasm. The ]ilace is not less adajited to \\> THE STORY OF GO A. 409 present use. There could be no more refreshing retreat from the stagnant air and burning heat of the city \lian this breezy, rocky clilf, which breaks the ocean-tides, while it looks down upon the okl town and the new, half buried in i)ahiis, mangos, and cypresses, and far up the primeval river-channels to their sourcec in the moun- tains, which are lost in the horizon. Our minds M-oro croM'ded, in the hours we passed on the turreted veranda, with the thoughts of the events which had happened beneath it : of Camoens and his romantic career ; how, crossed in love at home, he came to this far- off and misty East to make by adventure a name with which to return and wed the maiden with the " sweetest eyes were ever seen ;" how, after shipwreck and amid privations and persecutions, he wrote here his " Lusiad," and then returned to l.iS native land, only to finJ his mistress dead, and to die himself, of a broken heart, n\ an almshouse. We thought of the arrival of armed fleets from Lisbon, in the now quiet bay ; of the building and fortification of a ffreat city ; of native armies gathered in siege around it — of the brave and chivalrous defenders Avho defeated and dispersed them ; of the expedition of squadrons for the conquest of Aden and Ormus, in the Arabian Sea ; of Malacca, the key of the Sea of China, and of tlio i\Iohiccas in the xVrchipelago, and of their triumphant return laden with sjjoils ; of the homeward dispatch of argosies loaded with spices, pearls of Ceylon, and diamonds of Golconda; of the coming in of tlio humble Jesuit missionaries, their fortunes and their fate, sometimes received with affection and gratitude, and often meeting tlie martyr's crown ; of the baptism of whole tribes, provinces, and nations ; of their subsequent relapse into their primitive idol-wor- ship; of the enterprise of the colonists on land and sea, extending the fame and sway of Portugal, always brilliant, but ending in de- feat and overthrow at last, when thcv came into collision with European rivals equally andutious and stronger than themselves. This, wliich is the story of Goa, is also the history of Portuguese colonization. Of the vast cni})ire which Portugal established in hoth hemispheres on the track of tlie great discoverers, there re- main now only this little province of (ioa, in India; the already decaying city of Macao, in China ; and the yet barbarian colonies in 500 BKITISII INDIA. •A. of St. Paul (le Loando, and Mozambique, in Africa. Portugal won that empire bravely, she improved it as she could with the light she enjoyed, and she lost it chivalrously. Tlie nations which have proHted by her discoveries and conquests will not deny her honor and sympathy. An early dinner at Captain Major's was attended by the tjov- ernor-gencral and other officers of the state, including M. Eiberio, a poet of whom it is said we are likely to hear more, through some translations by Longfellow. The hour of five, the first in which tide would serve, had been appointed for our departure. Mr. Seward, as usual, was procecdiuir promptly to the wharf, but was detained for a parting demonstra- tion. The governor addressed him with emotion ; Mr. Seward re- plied with equal feeling. The military saluted him, and then the barge convoyed us to our familiar deck. Even when the last of the forts had dipped its flag and fired its farewell guns, and the settini: sun had left us o y the hazy twilight of the tropics, signals were rftill seen waving adieux from the palace balconies and from the wliarf. "Whatever else of the ancient Portuguese character mm- have passed aM^ay witl> the decline of imperial power, the element of chivalrous courtesy certainly remains. The crew of the Camel L now obedient. The Hindoo hchns- nian steers faithfully, the ocean-currents flow smoothly, the iron mountain no longer diverts the needle, while the comp:iss h;b l)een satisfactorily adjusted. Our captaincy is pleased with itself and with us. We are equally satisfied, and go to our rest with the Bombay light shining brightly before us. Goa has been gained, and the I>yculla Club is not " going to be disappointed.'' . Portugal won Id with the light 3 nations wliicli all not deny hor tided by the gov- iding M. Riherio, ^re, through some d serve, had been al, was proceeding •arting dcmonstra- n ; Mr, Seward re- him, and then tlie rhen the last of the ms, and the setting: fopics, signals were mies and from the lesc character may power, the element 'he Hindoo hclms- snioothly, the iron the compass \\'A> pleased with itseU Ito our rest with the has been gained, pointed."' CHAPTER XYII. LAST BAYS IN BOMBAY. The BycuUa Club. — Mr. Seward's Speech. — Ilis Grateful Acknowledgments to his Enter- taincrs. — The Indies of the East and the Indies of the West. — Growing Civilization of the East. — A Proj^ress Irresistible. — The New Concord. — Policy of the Anglo- Saxon Race. — Miss Wcssner. — Departure from Bombay. Bombay, Aiyril 21s^ — The Byculla Club is less a local society of Bombay than an association of the gentlemen who are engaged in the military and civil service throughout India. Not only Ameri- cans, but foreigners of all the Western nations, fraternize cordially in its circle. ^ Its spacious and elegant rooms, highly illuminated, w^ere filled last night, and the entertainment was attended by all the members in the city and many ladies. The Honorable Sir M. R. "Wcstropp, Chief-Justice of Bombay, presided, and spoke of Mr. Seward's public life. Mr. Seward re- plied as follows : " I have been more than once heretofore kindly invited to meet societies in Asia, but those privileges were lost by reason either of fatigue, or some other exigency of travel. I have, therefore, accepted this courtesy of yours, as a social welcome tendered me by the Europeans residing in India, while at the same time my prepa- rations for an early departure oblige me to take my final leave of the East here. Having learned much and enjoyed more, I am opprer^sed with many grateful thoughts, though the time scarcely 33 502 BRITISH INDIA. 2,^ in S^rf^ te,a. ■; -« B ta «Sg-_ ».i* s:-i •■- ' :tS je 'I ;■ ■ -J '»- •*.- *i- i » ) . f* •i • 1'. II ♦ i ■ {, _ ^ -'» ;' i« f- J 1 1 1 ^.i 1 ^1 .'1 it ' .31 f* serves for a full utterance of one. When the spring fills up, how- ever, we must choose the vent through which the stream shall flow. First, I must thank you sincerely, profoundly, for bringing nic to an acfjuaintance M'ith your enlightened and spirited association for bestowing upon me the honor of its membership, and for giving me this felicitous expression of its elegant and generous hospitality. I have been frequently asked, " What do you think of Bombay ? " I answer now : " The Byculla Club is a just expo- nent of a great and growing Oriental metropolis." Two hundred years ago this magnificent bay came to a King of England as the dowr}^ of a Portuguese princess. Who could then have foreseen that, under British rule, it would become the gate of the East, the Constantinople of a new historical era? Yet, this high destiny is one of the assured and immediate results of the Suez Canal. I shall, indeed, continue my past endeavors to hasten on a ship-canal across the Isthmus of Darien — a work which can hardly fail to give new importance to queenly Calcutta. But India is a vast coun- try, and can maintain two great commercial cities, as the world already has need of two interoceanic channels of commerce. " Gentlemen, I owe manifold acknowledgments outside the Byculla Club. Please suffer me to make them here ; to his excel- lency the viceroy, and many members of the Council of India— to the authorities of Madras, Bengal, the Northwest Province?, the Central Provinces, the Punjab and Bombay — to the Maharajahs of Benares and Putteeala, and to manv other native statesmen and scholars — for attentions which have made my travels in India equally a tour of pleasure and an interesting study. If I could think it possible that what I may novv* say could pass the confines of British India, I would add not less grateful acknowledgments to the Portuguese authorities of ancient Goa, the authorities of the vigorous Straits Settlement, and the government of the i.iarvellouslv fruitful Netherlands Indies, as well as the native governments of just awakening China and Japan. Thus far in a journey round the world, I have had the pleasant part of St. Paul's experience on his voyage from Joppa to Rome : ' So when this was done, othei'3 also came, who also honored us with many honors.' MR. SEWARD'S SPEECH. 503 ng fills np, liow- trcam sliall flow. L' bringing nic to rited association, bersliip, and for nt and generous lat do you tliink lb is a just expo- " Two Innulrcd of England as tlie icn liave foreseen e of the East, the his high destiny is le Suez Canal. I ten on a ship-canal hardly fail to give :lia is a vast coun- 'itics, as the world ' commerce, ments outside the here ; to his excel- ouncil of India— to vest Provinces, the the Maharajahs of itive statesmen and lY travels in India ''study. It 1 could Id pass the confines ichnowlodgmcnts to e authorities of the of the Liarvellously re governments of in a journey round 'aul's experience on [his was done, others luors.' \ " Gentlemen, immediately after the Western discoveries of Co- lumbus, and the Eastern discoveries of Vasco de Gama, a new and significant, though inaccurate nomenclature obtained in geography. Thc,world was at once divided into two parts : one, the old and well known, the other, the newly-discovered or explored Indies, which embraced nearly all of Asia, and the whole of America. '• The old and well-known Western nations came suddenly under a new and vast responsibility. This responsibility included noth- ing less than a regeneration of an effete civilization in the so-called Indies of Asia, and the establishment of an original civilization in the so-called Indies of America. A profound sense of this respon- sibility sustained the labors and shaped the characters of Coliind)us and De Gama, of Chatham and Burke, of Washington and Jeffer- son, of Xavier and Heber. Tell me not, therefore, that this re- sponsibility is merely a conceit of an ardent imagination. " It is, I trust, gentlemen, to a sympathy which exists betM^een the now ruling classes of the East and my lountrymen, in this elevated and humane sentiment, that I am indebted for this consid- eration which it has given me so much pleasure to Rcknowledgc. "We may well, gentlemen, cherish and cultivate it. It need not make us one whit the less British, American, French, Portuguese, Italian, Danish, German, Dutch, or whatever else we may have been, or love to be, to accept the simple and sublime truth that comes down lousas an instruction from the throne above, that whatever govern- ments we may establish or maintain amid the debris of Asiatic empires or in the chaos of America, those governments must be established and maintained not alone nor chiefly for the advantage of the foreign founders, but for the welfare and happiness of the native races among whom they are founded. " Despite skepticism, avarice, and reactionary resistance, civiliza- tion in America, the Indies of the West, is a manifest success. I am happy to declare, as the result of my observation, the conviction that regeneration in Asia is equally proving itself to be a success. There are, indeed, parts of Asia where Western ideas, principles, and inventions, arc only tolerated with undissembled reluctance. These are the rej^dons which were List reached by Europeans. But :^ 504 BRITISn INDIA. «:? '««. "■lil* ■JS' mm *»» mm.; "a 'K, •oS ir ■«** "« IC - r. I»- f y ( * I know, on the other hand, those ideas, principles, and inventions are accepted and embraced cordially in other portions of the East, which have been more early and conveniently accessible. Witness Japan, the coast and rivers of China, Java, Burmah, Madras, Bon- gal, Goa, and Bombay. There modern civilization is triumphant. Progress is irresistible. The inventions of steam, railroads, tele- graphs, and missionary colleges and schools, have come in good time to enable us to carry on that work of regeneration peacefullv and humanely, which has so often been prosecuted blunderlnglv as well as cruelly, with the aid of gunpowder. It cannot be long before the British Government will be relieved of the necessity of maintaining an Indian army to protect their possessions, and a European army to watch the Indian one. "You must have noticed, gentlemen, as I have, a new and pleasing trait in the temper of our age, Europe does, indeed, ^till remain a theatre of international jealousies and ambitions, but I think all the nations of the "West have come at last to an harmoni- ous agreement that European conflicts shall no longer be extended into Asia, Polynesia, or America." (" Hear ! hear ! ") "You like this new concord, gentleircu — I know the reason: because it is the harbinger of peace and progress in the East. I like it for the same reason, and also for another : it is the saving ' Monroe doctrine ' of America. I am, of course, aware tliat the assembly before whom I stand, and to whom I am so much indebt- ed, consists largely of Britons. I am an American. Our nations are severed — our extraction largely tlie same. The very work of extending modern civilization in the two hemispheres, of wliiclj so large a share of responsibility has devolved upon each natiou, has a tendency, perhaps, to make us rivals. There are passionate and prejudiced men in both countries who would aggravate this rivalry into hatred, but such a temper is in any case insular and provin- cial, and unworthy the matured genius of either nation. I am not sentimental enough to rely on a distant consanguinity, which is daily becoming more remote, as an enduring bond of friendship between our two countries, but I have always seen that, situated as they are, on opposite sides of a great ocean, equally dependent on a DEPARTURE FROM BOMBAY. 505 and inventions, ions of the East, issible. Witness ab, Madras, Ben- n is triumphant. 1, railroads, tele- ve come in good •ration peacefully d bUinderhigly as t cannot be long f the necessity of ^possessions, and a have, a new and 3 does, indeed, .till d ambitions, but 1 hxst to an harnioui- lono-cr be extended ear?") laiow the reason : •ess in the East. I Lr: it is the saving •se, aware that the am so much indebt- ■ican. Our nations The very work of [spheres, of whicl} so ]n each nation, has a are passionate and Iggravate this rivalry insular and provin- jr nation. I am not Isanguinity, whicli is bond of friendsliip [seen that, situated as iially dependent on a peaceful commerce with the whole world, spealving- the same lan- guage, and holding the same religious faith, equally educated above the powers and blandishments of despotism, and conscious of their common responsibility in regard to universal progress, the welfare and happiness of each demand that they shall be friends, and man- Iv'ind cannot consent to their alienation. Far from thinlcing that the Anglo-Saxon race, so proudly and happily advanced, will fall into internecine conflict now or hereafter, I, on the contrary, steadfastly believe that neither of its two great branches will lose any thing of power or prestige while their colonies are increasing, multiplying, and replenishing the waste places of the globe. "My parting words to you, gentlemen, therefore, are: Let mu- tual respect and cordial friendship prevail between Great Britain and the United States of America, until British scorn of arbitrary government and American love of educated liberty shall encircle the earth ! " April 22d. — It is a day of leave-taking, and a busy one. A large representation of the intellectual society of Bombay, not only British, Americans, and Continental Europeans, have been with us, but also Parsees, Mohammedans, and Hindoos. All alike express their sympathies with Mr. Seward, and their appreciation of the sentiments he uttered the day before yesterday. While we were at Shan^'^hai, Miss Wessner, a Bavarian lady, then travelling in that country, gave an interesting account of her journey to Peking. When we returned to that capital, she had gone to Java. All the way hither she has been flitting away just before us, but we have failed to overtake her. To-day the bird was caught, and a pleasing acquaintance established. She exhibits great force of character in making alone an exploration of the world, which is universally thought to require masculine energy. Just at the moment of making this friendship, which promises so much, we are grieved with the intelligence of tho death of a friend, and our countrywoman, Alice Gary ; not leis gifted than true, brave, and womanly. Ml! CHAPTER XYIII. • .IS «S:. 1 1* -] 11 I), M ^■' if7?0Jf 50J/£^ 1' TO ADEN. Once more at Sea. — The Steamer Dcccan. — Mr. Seward's Remarks on India. — Natural Religion, — Tlio Characteristics of the Hindoo Mind — England's Hold on India,— The Regeneration of India. — The Island of Socotra. — Arrival at Aden. — An Kxtinct Volcano. — Wise Old England ! — A New Stage of the Voyage. — Rcd-Uaired Negroes. Steamer Deccan., April ^oth. — Once more at sea ! But wJicre? The waters whieli roll bct\vc>>n the Indian Peninsula and tlio Ara- bian Promontory are the Arabian Sea. Tlie waters south of tlicni are the Indian Ocean. AVe left the Indian Peninsula behind lis on the 22d, and are now making a bee-line from the Malabar coast to Aden, on the southwest coast of Arabia. On which of tlie two seas are we? Our steamer is the largest one of the Peninsular and Oriental line. Having three keels, she rides the sea as srjuardy and as smoothly as an American sidc-whecler. Our fellow-passen- gers being English, and many of them acquaintances made in India, we are not suffered to feel that we are strangers. "While watching the flying fish skipping over the unruffled m this morning, which of all the reflections that occurred to us dur- ing our sojourn in India shall we record? Mr. Seward said; " India has a very imperfect and unsatisfactory civilization, but it never had a better one. The native population could never achieve a better one if left to themselves. Their whole hope of a higher civilization depends on the instruction and aid of the West- ern nations, and, taking circumstances as they are, that hope de- REMATlTCi ON INDIA. 507 arks on India.— Nutural land's Hold on Inilia.- al at Aden.— An Kxfmcl ;c.— Ucd-llaired Ncj^rocs. ;sca! But where! nsula and the Ara- aters south of thcni insula behintl us on ic "Mahihar coast to which of the two the Peninsular and the sea as squarely Our fellow-passcii- mccs made in India, s. rer the unruffled «ca occurred to us dur- Mr. Seward said; •y civilization, but it ilation could never heir whole hope of a and aid of the West- y are, that hope de- pends chiefly on the pjuidance and aid of Groat Britain. It is a suh- jcct for profound study how it lias happened tliat tliua far India has liaii an experience so different from that of the nations of the West. Although the Western nations have not at all times been progres- iiivc, they have, nevertheless, as a whole family, been continually iulviincing. How is this to be accounted for? The first intellect- ual want of which man is conscious is, not that of a guidance in obtaining a supply of the necessaries of life, but a desire to know who and what is the power that created him, and on whom he is entirely dependent. Man feels himself capable of seeing and en- joying good, and also of doing and suffering evil. He asks, What is good, Avhat 13 evil ? When do good and evil come, and how I Where does the Supreme Power reside, and what is it ? Is it one, or is it many ? Is it altogether good, or altogether evil ? How can the Supreme Power be both good and evil ? Has the Supreme Power created only good and been baffled by an equal or superior power that has interjected evil? How could a power that is supremely good create evil ? Does the Supreme Power delight in virtue and the happiness of mankind, or does it derive pleasure from their crimes and suffering? The Supreme Power lias so far revealed itself in Nature that man can attain to the knowledge that it is a single power, that there is one God, not many gods, and that this one God requires from man the practice of virtue, and desires his happiness. This truth must be seized upon and become a spiritual conviction. Until a national mind grasps and cherishes this spiritual conviction, it must ever continue to revolve in a con- dition of uncertainty and doubt about the providential appoint- ments of good and evil, wdiich render it incapable of a firm ad- vance in knowledge and civilization. This is only saying, in other words, that such a nation becomes bewildered in the subtleties of metaphysics. This bewilderment has hitherto been, and yet remains, a condition of the people of Hindostan. All studious observers have agreed that the Hindoos are not intellectually in- ferior to the Western nations. They early framed a language, the Sanscrit, which the learned of every nation unite in asserting is superior to every other vehicle of human thought ; they have ethics 608 BRITISH INDIA. «■,«.. V ti tn or ».!» mp n f? '{■ ' •«. - * •a. im;-. ;:l ( • ■, ir- • • ^ ' a |!i in: '•It*. 5i equal to those of Confucius, and his are equal to the morals of Plato. They have many municipal laws as just as the common law. They have skill in productive art and manufacture, which has made their fabrics objects of cupidity and envy among all nations. Their literature of fiction furnished a model for the 'Arabian Nights Entertainments' as well as the poems of Ari- osto ar 1 Chaucer. They gave to Greece the science of notation, and they have always excelled in mathematics generally, and prac- tical hydraulics. Nevertheless, the Hindoos have never linown how to constitute a civil government, or to organize a beneficial ecclesiastical system. They have never even written a history of themselves, unless we accept, as such, fables which cover a chrono- logifal period of many millions of years, with four successive ages: first- one of perfect human strength, purity, and happiness ; second, one of a slight admixture of weakness, rendering human govern- ment necessary ; third, an equal admixture of vice and virtue ; and, fourth, the predominance of evil, which has only endured five thousand years of its appointed term of four hundred and thirty- three thousand ! Unable to establish a plausible mythology, tliev require us, in the nineteenth century of the Christian era, to accept a -'antheon of thirty-three millions of gods 1 It is not for us to deterinine " .i ether the pertinacious metaphysical bias of the Hin- doos is iiatural to the Hindoo mind, or is accidental. Its fruits are palpable enough. They are, a persistent adhesioxi to the Pytha- gorean theory of transmigration — a theory which equally subverts the relation of man to brute, and the relation of both man and brute to the common Creator ; a degradation and debasement of woman, which not only exclude her from society, but render her incapable of it; caste, which extirpates cor)pcration, emulation, and charity, annihilates the inherent conviction of the equal rights of manhood, and delivers all governments over to the caprices of ambition and the chi^nces of anarchy. The remedy for India is and can be nothing less than a regeneration of the Hindoo mind, The Mogul conquerors attempted this by teaching the ^lohanimo- dan faith, and enforcing their instructions by the sword of tlie prophet. They failed even to establish a severe despotism. The BRITISU CONTROL IN INDIA. 509 superior political science and greater toleration of the British nation enable them at least to rule India in peace, but not without a constant exhibition of military power. It is but too ai)parent that the native population of India liave not yet, under British rule, established any firm advance. If the British Government should withdraw itself from Ilindostan to-day, the coimtry must inevitably relapse into the wretched condition in which it was found by the Europeans. But Great Britain has a difiicult task, hidia cannot be colonized by British subjects, or European races, as North America and Australia were. Climate forbids this, even if caste does not. On the other hand. Great Britain, now con- stantly present in India, and in all parts of it, with her arts and her arms, protects and cooperates with the philanthropists wdio come as missionaries and educators. These can hardly fail under such circumstances to produce a change in the practices, habits, and languages, of the people of India. The work of regeneration must indeed be slow, for it requires nothing le.- - than the destruction of caste^ the restoration of woman, and the conversion of the natives, i( not to Christianity, at least to a religion more rational and prac- tical than the Braminical taith. Through this slow process, the idea of the dignity and rights of man may be expected to develop. It may seem sanguine to expect that, among the vicissitudes inher- ent in all political aflfiirs, British control in India will last long enough to secure this great consummation. But, even if this should not be so, the Western powers which should relieve Great Britain in India must necessarily assume her responsibilities. I do not think her situation in India precarious ; certainly no Euro- pean power has now the ability to displace her from the position she has attained through long perseverance and at great cost. The perils of British authority in India, if there are any, are those which threaten the stability and peace of the realm. So long as Great Britain shall be content to employ Sepoys, and subsidize native princes, she will be quite safe in India, and during all that thno the habit of submission to British law may be expected to increase, and so reduce gradually the difficulties of the situation. We have not found the British residents in India one-half so hope- 510 BRITISH INDIA. ful of the regeneration of the country as this, but all great and benevolent enterprises, however slow in progress, are sure to be successful at last. The regeneration of India is an old talk of the Western nations. It dates from the invasion of Alexander. It was the task of the Mohammedans. Caste and superstition arc for less omnipotent in India now than they were two thousand years ago, four hundred years ago, or even fifty years ago, nor is the con- dition of the people as low now as it was at any of those periods." ^^ -I 1 ... . 1 • "1 i :• * 1 ; 1 \ ♦ 1 ^i % .1 Indian Ocean, Aiyril 1%th. — "We are just passing the island of Socotra, which belongs to the Sultan of Muscat. It is commer- cially known for its exports of aloes and the gum of the dragon's- blood tree.* Admiral Cockburn recently visited the island Mi tli a view of suppressing a small slave-traffic which is carried on there with traders from the opposite African coast. So we see that, although the African slave-trade has been abolished among the civ- ilized nations, it still lingers among those which have not been re- claimed from barbarism. The admiral found the inhabitants of the capital, Tamarinda, little better than aborigines, though they speak the Arabic and profess Mohammedanism. Before Mohammed, however, they were not pagans, for St. Francis Xavier, in relating his voyage to India, states that his vessel entered the harbor of Socotra, and was detained there many weeks for provisions and re- pairs. He found the inhabitants hospitable and docile Christians, using a ritual-service which they claimed to have been left them by the Apostle St. Thomas, to whom they attributed their conversion, They had never heard of the Pope, nor even of the division of the Church between the Greek Patriarch, whom they acknowledged, and the Eishop of Rome. April '21 fh. — After eight months' travel in the incomprehen- sible East, with its stagnant civilization, we are now passing into another region still more incomprehensible and hopeless. On our right hand is Yemen, once " Arabia the happy," and still known in poetry as a land of light and beauty, but now the dwelling of Arab hordes, who are sinking every day deeper into ADEN. 611 barbarism. On the left, we are passing Soumala, that part of Africa which stretches from Mozambique to Abyssinia. It is Inhabited by aboriginal negro tribes, which, from the beginning of time, have defied civilization. Thus we have the same experience, in our approach to Europe, as when we listen to a vague and con- fused prelude which precedes the full harmony of the symphony. Aden^ April 'H^th. — Elevated plains on the Arabian coast, too distant for minute observation, were our landmarks as we neared Aden. Many centuries ago — we must considt geology to know how many — a great fire was pent up in the lowest depths of the prom- ontory that now bears the name of Aden. That subterranean fire, becoming at last uncontrollable, burned the whole promontory out, and left it upside-down. The top of the hill was gone, and nothing remained but a huge cylindrical bowl, six miles in diameter at the bottom, with a rim fifteen hundred feet high. No one knows what that convulsion of Nature was for, any more than " Caspar " knew what the battle of Blenheim was about. Everybody, however, said that Blenheim was a " famous victory," and everybody agrees that Aden was a great volcano. Aden, thus hollowed into basin-shape, is joined to the Arabian coast by a low and very narrow isthmus — a place so entirely desolate it has never before been our fortune to see. On it, or in it (which will you have ?), there is not a tree nor a plant "xccpt where, here and there, is a patch which man's hand has planted, scarcely bigger than that hand, and which he continues to water daily. The Portuguese discoverers stopped here on their voyages of exploration. They found here, as at Socotra, a colony of Syrian Christians. The Mohammeilans from Mecca invaded them with fire and sword. They invoked relief and protection from the Portuguese Indian capital at Goa. The Portuguese in- tervention proved ineffectual, and the promontory remained under native Arabian sway, and ultimately came to be a province of Mus- cat. The kings of Muscat lost it, as they lost every thing, and the promontory remained under the control of native chiefs. The British Government early saw its importance to their Indian do- li % 512 BRITISH INDIA. minions, but awaited an opportunity. In 1839, under the pretext of redressing an insult. Great Britain, with sword in one hand, and a liberal purse in the other, seized the promontory and fortified it. fESH"**- ■ «»n >* t^ '* tf ) f- a- ! ^ < 1, * li, iiii J « !"• . :« '"■• • • ADEN. It is now used as a coaling-station in the European voyages to India, whether they arc made around the Cape of Good Hope, or through the Red Sea. Aden commands the latter navigation, and in this sense is the key to India and the whole East, as Singa- pore is the key to China, Japan, the Archipelago, and Australia, Aden is politically dependent, not directly on the Home Govcni- ment, but on the presidency of Bombay, and is held and main- tained at the cost of the government of Brit'sh India. "Wise old England 1 How she fortifies her Island Realm, and yet all the while develops and improves the energies of her people. while she docs not hesitate to undertake the police regulation of the ADEN. 513 world I She knows, moreover, when and where and how to estab- lish the necessary police-stations. If jealous of the United States, what could she desire more than that they shall be content with complaining of the Alabama grievances, hesitate at taking a police- station in Alaska, and utterly refuse to take one, even though offered, in the AVcst Indies ? That hesitation and refusal recall President Lincoln's story of the intrusion of the Universalists into the town of Springfield. The several orthodox churches agreed that their pastors should preach down the heresy. One of them began his discourse with these emphatic w ords : " My brethren, there is a dangerous doctrine ere ^.Ing in among us. There are those who are teaching that all men will be saved ; but, my dear brethren, we hope for better things 1 " Aden is a fortification and harbor, and nothing more. The fortification is without a model, and there is no duplicate of it, for the simple reason that the volcano shaped it. All that rfcience had to do was, to perfect what the volcano left unfinished. The Gov- ernment has simply hewn the concave rocky surface of the crater into bastions, palisades, covered ways, parapets, martello-towers, and castellated batteries, so as to repel approach from the sea, on every side, and at the same time to cominand every foo*' of the interior area. The base of the interior area has two depressions, doubtless produced by two distinct eruptions, separated by a bar- rier of rock, indicating that there must have been two volcanoes. The larger area of these excavations contains the town of Aden, the other the arsenal. A passage v/hich has been hewn through tliis volcanic rock connects the arsenal with the barracks in the town. This passage has a ditch along its side, parallel massive walls on both sides, and a battery at each end, commanding the plain in either direction. The outer sides of the circular mountain are bo steep and so indented that they furnish deep and convenient bays for safe anchorage at their base. The rocl<y precipices which enclose the crater leave no sufficient space for barracks or dwell- ings. The population of Aden, including all ci.^sses, is contracted, therefore, within the basin, and so under control of the fortifica- tions. You reach this basin, not by diivij^g under the encircling 514 BRITISH INDIA. SIS'**' s 1» I." IB ' mi' 4 A rim and rising within, uor by climbing over it, but by a road hewn through the rim itself. Some military critics among our Britisli acquaintance tell us that these defences are not impregnable. Mr. Seward asks, "But can they not easily be made so ? " Tliev assent. " That," he says, " is all that is required of any fortifica- tion," The force at present stationed here is only one regiment. The latitude of Aden is 12° north. The heat is so constant, as well as 60 intense, as to suggest the apprehension of new subter- ranean fires. Sometime? three years pass without the blessing of rairi. It is, therefore, a severe study of the government to pro- vide fresh water for town, garrison, and shipping. The earlier owners of Aden had a considerable city within the basin, wliicli they supplied with water by collecting the rain which occasionally fell on the crests and interior declivities, and conducting it co a dozen tanks or reservoirs. The water thus gathered and hoarded from tropical tempests would be sufficient, if left to its natural flow. to deluge the bottom of the basin. These reservoirs remain in per- fect preservation, and are admired for their masonry. The walls of each bear a tablet on which is stated its cajiacity in gallons. The supi)ly furnished by these ancient reservoirs is quite inadequate to the present demand of the town, which is provided for by tlie use of steam-condensers of sea-water. It 's a curious thing to see English artisans hero using coal from Cornwall, to extract water from the ocean to s^ake the thirst of the savages of Asia and Africa. Who shall questi'.n that the British people are a commercial one, when he learns that the government at Aden sells the water, wLicli it thus manuffictures, at a penny a gallon ? We realize here that we have reached a new stage of our round- the-world voyage. "We are leaving, rather, let us say, we have left the far East and the South behind us. Though not yet arrived at the West and the North, we are on their confines. Kot one Mon- golian or Malay, do we see, only a few Hindoos and an individual Parsee, who applies to Mr. Seward to be appointed consul of the United States. The people are Arabs, Turks, swarthy Jews, and Abyssinians ; the dominating races, Abyssin.iaiis and Sounialans. The Hindoos arc servants; the Jews, bankers and pawnbrokers; THE SOUMALAXS. 615 lit by a road hewn unong our Britisli not impregnable, made so T' Thev ed of any fortilicfi- ily one regiment, at is so constant, as ion of new subter- out the blessing of j-overnment to pro- )ping. Tlic earlier dn the basin, wliicli I which occasionally conducting it to a thered and hoarded 't to its natural flow, •voirs remain in per- sonry. The walls of ity in gallons. The is quite inadequate provided for by tlie curious thing to see all, to extract water s of Asia and Africa. I'o a commercial one, ,clls the water, wliich IV stage of our round- us say, we have left sh not yet arrived at ines. Kot one Mon- )s and an individual ointed consul of tlie s, swarthy Jews, and ans and Sounialans. 3 and pawnbrokers; the Arabs and Abyssinians, traders in coffee, franhincense, myrrh, amber, and ostrich-feathers. The Arabs also supply the people with fruit, mostly dates, and with the mutton of the Berber sheep. This small animal is invariably white, with a black head. The Sounialans arc not prepossessing in appearance. AVo happened to be in our state-rooms when the Deccan came to anchor. These natives swarmed thickly around the steamer, in the smallest and most rickety of all boats and rafts, to see if happily some passenger mi""ht want them, either to carry baggage ashore for a penny, or to dive into the sea for the same price. Before we were aware, they were climbing over the ports, naked, except at the waists, peering with their large, yellow-black eyes into the ship — blacl: as Milton's darkness, strong and lithe, with great white teeth, flat noses, low foreheads, and thick hair, curly, and varying in color from carrot- red to tow-white — Scandinavian hair on African heads ! At the instant they appeared at the vessel's side, the command rang through the ship, " Close the ports ! " and a guard was stationed on deck to prevent their apprehended larcenies. Failing to find em- ployment as porters, they passed the whole day diving into the sea. On shore we found invariably the same light hair on the heads of the same race. " Verily," we said, " though in the times of Jeremiah 'the leopard could not change his spots, nor the Ethiopian his sldn,' the latter has since that time learned to change the color of his hair.-' The Soumalans are laborers, that is to say, th?^ Avomen are. Blessed are the customs of these aboriginal Africans, far more blessed than those of semi-oivilizcd Asia. These Sornnalan women, with their glistening white teeth, red lips, and yellow eyes, are the only women we have seen in the enjoyment of personal freedom since we left the United States, except the Mongolians in the Nan-Kow Pass. This enjoyment is not perhaps too dearly pur- chased, even at the cost of performing the servile labor by which their black lords live. The buildings here are constructed of lava-rock, without any pretension to elegance or even eon>'enience. The governor is a gentleman of long experience, extensive information, and great candor. The fortunate coincidence! of finding Admiral Cockburu 516 BRITISH INDIA. ?ti •." ■ ■! !! r» '^ '*' ;! f '■-:*>, i' "Ti ij «■• '1 ' i f '• s . r 4 1 here with the Forte is especially gratifying, "We have passed the day on shore, and concerted a plan for a future and hopeful correspondence.' ^ It is not always safe to trust to fellow-passengers, or hastily- made acquaintances, for an explanation of what you find curious in fo.'eign travel. We inquired of every one how it happens that these black men of Soumala have red or tow hair. The first answer we received was, that they are the "beaux" of Africa, that they dve their hair to make themselves attractive. Others answered that the race are red-haired men. The true explanation was given by the governor, but it requires some caution in setting it down. "Water is scarce in this burning climate; the Soumalans use lime as a suK stitute, and this cfiects two important savings : one, the expense of soap ; the other, the cost of a fine-tooth comb. "Oh, tell mo, where is fancy bred — In the heart or in the head ? " It has often been a study of ours, Where are fashions bred? We think we have found out that th ^ fashion of long-pointed finger- nails, now so much the vogue in Europe, is borrowed from the elite of China. Prince Kung's nails are so long and so exquisitely cultivated as to Jlsconragc emulation in European diplomatic cir- cles; and all the gold-dust, diamond-dust, or dyes of Paris, arc inef- fectual, compared with the lime-wash of Soumala, for bleaching hair. f ' March 21, 1872.-11 is with deep sorrow that wc record the death of this chivalrous and pious gentleman. He fell a victim to the Indian climate. ir. "We have passed future and liopeful issengers, or hastily, it you find curious in it happens that these The first answer we Africa, that they dye ►thers answered that ition was given by the ;ing it down. "Water ms use lime as a suh- : one, the expense of ed— e are fashions bred? )f long-pointed finger- j borrowed from the ng and so exquisitely 'opean diplomatic cir- lyes of Paris, arc iiief- umala, for bleaching PART V. EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 1 the death of this chivalrous 84 mm *K£7 *>)• ft ■■-» Ili: lua The Gi PI St throii we ha theR rende Frenc sure t erful 1 the in low, Si Mi Althoi fanatic port is have t peak, the des quainti CHAPTER I. THE RED SEA AND SUEZ CANAL. The Gate of Tears. — The Rock of Pcrim, — The Port of Mecca. — Imaginary Terrors — Pleasant Weather. — The Coasts of the Red Sea. — Tlic Division of the Races. — A Refreshing Atmosphere. — The Track of the Israelites. — Suez. — The Ancient Canal. —The New Canal. — Its Inauguration. — Its Prospects. Steamer Deccan^ Bed Sea, April 30^A. — Last night we came through the Strait of Bab-ql-Mandeb (the Gate of Tears). Thougli we had a growing moon, we were unable to discern either shore, or the Rock of Perim, long fam6us for its supply of tortoise-shell, and rendered notorious, in our own time, by the abortive attempt of the French to secure it as a counter-salient to Aden. "We are quite sure that, with the aid of a strong glass, reiinforced by a more pow- erful faith, we discerned this morning the Arabian shore, and even the minarets of some town. We are now sailing past a series of low, sandy, uninhabited islands which lie off" the Abyssinian shore. May Sd. — We have just passed Jiddah, the port of Mecca. Although some of the European powers manage, in spite of the fanatical ferocity of the natives, to maintain consulates there, the port is visited only by Egyptian craft. On the western shore, we have taken leave of Abyssinia, and now we make the towering peak, Ras-Elba, which tells us that we have come far upward along the desert shores of Nubia. From the day we formed our first ac- quaintance with European sojourners in the East, at Yokohama, 520 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. Is. ir a I 1} It::- the one peril of our AVcRtorn voyftp^o, whlt'li was represented U8 tlic modt fejirfiil, lias boon the scorcliin<^ {'liiuatc of the lied Sea. AVc have been tohl that the steamer, driviiij; before tlie wind, often iv- verses its course to procure relief, and that ])a8sengers die in tluir cabins, merely from the oppression of the atmos[)herc. We as von. Btantly opposed these fears, because we knew that latitude would be in our f ivor, and we thought we nii^ht expect to meet revixjnir breezes from the Mediterranean. We were rif^ht ; not the Pacific Ocean, nor even the Indian Ocean, furnished us a more ])lcasaiit voya_nje than the lied Sea. The suifacc rutiled by the gentlest of zephyrs, its waves, this morning, reflect rainbows broken witli myriads of prisms, as brilliant and as distinct as those which, (ni a summer day, dance in the spray below the cataract at Niagara. It is not easy, perhaps, to ascertain on what grounds this great <,nilt'. twelve hundred miles long and two hundred miles wide, acciuiml. so early as the time of Herodotus, the name of lied Sea. Probablv it was so named from the banks of coral which underlie its water?, and which render its navigation dangerous. Certainly the water i? not red ; this morning it assumes a hue of emerald-green. Pleasant as the voyage is, however, no one expresses a desire to explore either coast of the Red Sea. The reason is, that siulmn attempt would be dangerous. On the Arabian shore, the inhabi- tants are relapsing into barbarism ; while, on the African shore, the people have never been reclaimed from the savage state. This, therefore, is the most forlorn region through which we pass on our voyage. Nevertheless, not only history, but even revelation, is at fault, if Ave are not just now nearing the cradle of civilization, How melancholy a thought it seems, that while we find prosperity, improvement, and progress, or at least philanthropic efibrt, attend- ed with hope in all parts of Asia through which we have passed, as well as on the steppes of Northern Europe, and in the most desert parts of America — and indeed civilization reclaiming the islands of the Bea near the North and South Poles — vet darkness continuallv gathers in this, the oldest and most favored, region of the cartli! This must have happened because the two great divisions of the human family, the white races and the dark races, meet here on tlic mVERGENCS OF THE RACES. r)2i re])rcscntcd as tlic the lied Sea. AVe the wind, often re- ,cngers die in tlioir pherc. AVe as (..u- it latitude would lie >t to meet reviving; ;lit ; not the Pai'itic us a more pleasant led by the gentlest inhows broken with as those which, m ii ^ract at IsMagara. It iinds this great j,nilt'. miles wide, ac'<|iiire(l Kcd Sea. rro1)ablY h underlie its water?. 'ertainly the water b rald-grccn. expresses a desire to sason is, that sueli an an shore, the inliabi- n the AtViean shore, c savage state. Tins. whieh we pass on our even revelation, isiit •radle of civilization. le we find prosperity, thropic effort, atteml- c'h we have passed, as nd in the most desert .aiming the islands of darkness continually region of the earth', great divisions of the ices, meet here on the opposite shores of the Red Sea, and the opposite banks of the Nile. They did not commingle, and they could not remain together. They parted, perhaps by consent, more ])robably by instinct, the dark races retaining Africa, and, moving southward and eastward, peopling India, Burmah, Thibet, China, Japan, the Archipelago, Oeeanica, and Western America; the Caucasian race, on the con- trary, leaving Asia as well as Ai'rica to their dark competitors, spread themselves continually northward and westward on the European Continent, the islands of the Atlantic, and the eastern American shores. The shores of the Red Sea have been practically abandoned by both /aces. Ifow strangely this divergence of the white and the dark '•"ccs per* lexes the problem of the ultimate civ- ilization and unity of iimnkind! The darker races, following the jiidit of Nature, and rejecting or extinguishing that of revelation, have stumbled, and are scarcely nuiking any progress since the sej)- aration. The white races, more willingly accepting the greater lij,dit, though they also have stundded, have reached a higher plane. Man can go no further in unravelling that perplexity. The designs of Providence arc not unintelligible, but they are not man's. ways. 3fai/ ^)th. — TIow refreshing and invigorating is this cool atmos- jihere, after the iutemperato heat wo endured so long in India!. We arc now bearing westwardly into the Culf of Suez — the west- ern of the two gidfs which divide the Red Sea at its upper termina- tion. The eastern one is Akabah. The (hilf of Suez contracts gradually from forty miles to ten in width. The African coast of the Gulf of Suez is a desert table-land, rising into equally sterile mountains. These plains and mountains divide the Red Sea from the fertile valley of the Nile. AYe suj)p()So that we have already crossed ihc path the Israelites took in their miraculous passage. We need not, however, have come here to learn that tlie track can- not now be precisely ascertained. The topography of the region fo far supports the Scripture account as to indicate that the exiles from (ioshen might most naturally have come down the western lunk of the Gulf of Suez, and thence across the gulf to the end of, 522 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. I 5' !l II. the Sinaitic promontory ; thence they would have passed tliroiirjh Edom and Moab, now Arabia Petrfea, along the eastern shore of the Dead Sea to the mouth of the Jordan. If we suppose, on the con- trary, that they travelled around the head of the Gulf of Suez, tlicir journey would have been much longer and more exposed to fw- suit by Pharaoh, but in that case it would lose altogether its niai-- vellous character. If we assume that they crossed through the wa- ters, it is purely absurd to suppose that any landmarks or traces cf the miraculous passage could now be found. It is not so witli their march northward from the head o» the Red Sea. Sinai and Iloreb are two of i cluster of yellow mountain-penks, which crown the peninsula and divide the Gulf of Akabah from the Gulf of Suez. While It is certain that we are at this moment looking from the deck of our steamer upon both of these celebrated mountains, it is nevertheless impossible to identify them. On the M'cstorn shore of the Gulf of Akabah is the port bearing that name. It is not doubtful, however, that this same Akabah is the Ezion-geber of sacred history. It is no unimportant part that this place, now so obscure, has held in the progress of human society. " And when we passed by from our bretlircn the children of P^sau, which dwelt in Seir, through the way of the plain fmni Elath, and from Ezion-gebcr, wo turned and passed by t!ie mhv of the wilderness of Moab." "And King Solomon made a navy of ships in Ezion-gebcr. which is beside Elath, on the shore of the Red Sea, in the land of Edom." " Jehoshaphat made ships of Tharshish to go to Ophir for fjdld; but they went not ; for the slnps were broken at Ezion-gebcr." Bv-the-wav, there has ])een a c-reat revolution in exclianiros since Jehoshaphat's time. The Western nations, instead of briiii;- ing gold from India, now carry the precious metals into that coun- try. Sve::, Ma^j ()t/i. — It is difficult to say which of the two places i« the most forbidding and gloomy, Aden or Suez. Aden is scoopcil out of black volcanic rock, Suez is built on a monotonous gray ismaJlia. 523 sand-beach. It never rains here, naturally there is not moisture enough to sustain a germ of vegetable life, or slake a camel's thirst. Xeitlier flood nor desert, however, can perpetually defy the improving hand of man. A stream of fresh water has been brought through the desert from the Nile, which supplies the most pressing wants of the town, and even a tiny garden occasionally smiles on the desert-shore. The Suez Canal Company has made a safe harbor here, with convenient wharves, upon which are con- structed the railway-station and engine-houses. Suez, like Omaha, is a great place in the future. At present it contains the taverns, storehouses, and machine-shops, which are required by a trade w^hich is only recently opened. Soma trav- ellers assign to it a population of twenty-five thousand. We think there may be ten thousand. All the buildings are of stone, except occasionally a small frame structure used as a boarding-house, and, because of its frail, fanciful construction, called an " American " house. Telegrams from Cairo were received on our coming to anchor here, and soon afterward Betts Dey, a confidential officer of the Khedive, came on board, with the United States consul-general for Eirypt, and our esteemed American friend from "Washington, Mr. Charles Knapp, of " great-gun " notoriety. Betts Bey tendered us, in behalf of the Khedive, a special train for travel at our own con- venience. Imailia, May (Sth. — We shall not now undertake to say whether it was Sesostris, or some other Rameses or Necho, who, seven hundred years before the Christian era, built a sliiiK'imal across the desert from Suez to Bubastis on the Kile. Nor do we think it necessary to say that at the period of the first invasion of Eirypt by the Turkish Mohammedans, fourteen hundred years later, that ancient and important navigation was so eflectually lost that even its route across the desert had entirely disappeared, and its channel has never oven been ascertained. S(»me good always comes out of the greatest evils. Napoleon's invasion in '08 was a severe scourge to Egypt. But the Suez C^anal is the fruit of the 524 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. s ■«■■. »iri mH^' ia» m», 4»t »•■ «r. t>in r '1 •-..' ' n it ^ IK l» 1 !l snnfgestions and surveys lie then instituted with a view to restore that invahiablc higliway. Seventy years were occupied with explorations to remove speculative difficulties. These were — first, that the elevation of the Mediterranean and of the lied Sea were unequal, rendering necessary a lockage, dangerous if not impracti- cable ; second, that no safe harbor could be biiilt on the Mediter- ranean coast ; third, that the deposits of the Nile on the Meditei ranean shore have made an oozy bed, incapable oi' holding water: fourth, that the sands of the desert, near the Red Sea, are iucajKi- ibuaIua. 1 I li. J* hlo of retaining water; fifth, that the mroccos of the desert wniiM till any channel with sand as fast as it could be excavated. Tliciv M''(3re difficult iesi also of a political nature. The British (tovoni- mont was unwilling that the canal should be built uiuler Froiic!; auspices, '{'lie Divan at (^onstantinojilo distrusted the loyalty ot the, Khedive, aiul was subservient to Uritish intlucnce. All tins objections, however, gave way at last, and in ISol) M. l'\'r(liii;iiiil Lcasepii, with the effective support ot the tiien Khedive, Said I'lulii. THE SUEZ CANAL. 525 li a view to restore ere occupied witli These were — first, the lied Sea worr oiis if not inipracti- ,iilt on the Mcditor- ulc on the Meditei- B of holding water : [led Sea, are incapa- of the desert ^vollW )o excavated. Tliciv iThe British (xovcni- I huilt under French Iriistcil the loyalty ot lititluence. All tiu'S' 18r><.) M. I'cnlinnn'l |lvh6dive,Sai<irm'l';'- or<?;Uiizcd a company and commenced the work. Now, in 1871, althougn not fully completed, the canal is in practical operation. Before leaving Suez, we examined the wharves and docks. AVe arrested the train at Serapeum, twenty miles, and at Ismailia, iifty miles from Suez, and inspected one of the deepest cuttings of the canal. We saw how easily ships of three thousand tons can pass. We left the northern end of the canal to be examined when we shall have completed our trip in Southern Egypt. We mention now a few only of the more remarkable matters belonging to the (Treat enterprise. The canal is a hundred miles in length. It is carried on em- bankments raised in four successive natural lakes. Bitter Lake, the Tini!^ah, the Ballah, and the Menzaleh. Tlie depth of the water is twenty-six feet, its width at the bottom two hundred and forty-six feet, its minimum width at the top is three hundred and forty-six feet. It is without locks. Steam-vessels — as yet none others use the canal — make the transit in twenty-four hours. The harbor at Port Said, on the Mediterranean, is formed by two projecting ])iers, constructed of artificial stone made on the spot. In prosecuting the work, a diminutive fresh-water canal was first constructed by using the waters of the Nile. On the auxiliary canal, the barges convey- ing men, machinery, and supplies, were transported. The water of the Suez Canal, where we examined it, is of the same delicate blue that we had observed in the Gulf of Suez. The canal seemed like ii narrow glossy ribbon, stretched across the yellow desert. Lake Tinisah is a large basin of salt-water which supplies what is ncces- mj to keep the canal at its pro})er level between the two seas. The canal-water is unpalatable to man and beast. M. Lesseps built a house near this lake, when he commenced the work. He brought the Nile water then through the lesser canal, and planted a garden. Contractors came there to reside, a town grew up in the Arabian Desert, equal in magnitude and rapid- ity of growth to (Jhevenno. Jhit the Frenchman made hii- town very bcautifid. A population of fifteen thoui-and gathered there in seven years. Broad avenues and streets were marked over the sand, aiul soon were well paved, although stone is rarely found. 526 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. »W in ♦1.(1 ««« •c ■•**• '*% ! 1 II I!, iti: ti even at the bottom of the canal. Catholic churches, foreign con- sulates, villas, banks, shops, and all other elements of the city, were there. The town -was justly named Ismailia in honor of Ismail Pacha, the Khedive, and became at once a provincial capital. All this was while the canal was in process of construction. What did Ismailia want more ? It wanted only the "formal opening of the canal to assert itself a commercial and political centre. The dav which the new city so impatiently desired came at last. Ismailia determined to introduce herself to the world by a grand festival. The season was propitious. The American civil war, which had filled the world with gloom, was ended. The French emperor had withdrawn his invading armies from Mexico. The " sharp, short, and decisive " war between Prussia and Austria was over. ^Xot even a signal-note was then heard of the Germanic-French AVar, which last year broke upon Europe. The Temple of Janus was closed. All the world knows how the Khedive appointed a day for a celebration of the great enterprise, the greatest of the age. Of course, he invited Napoleon, the imperial patron of the worl;. the empress, in the fashionable sense " the light of the world," and with them all the kings and all the queens, and all the princes, and all the presidents, statesmen, warriors, and savantr of the earth, to come to Ismailia. Nearly all who were invited came, personally or by representative. They were received on thg sea-shore, and at Port Said. Splendid steam-yachts conveyed them up the Xile, showing them the Pyramids, the ruins of Memphis and Tliebes, while waiting for the appointed day. Meantime the Khedive, with the energy and the profusion of Ilaroun-al-Raschid, bui^t a palace at Ismailia, and gave it all ihe spaciousness and embellisiniients (suitable for the entertainment of the majesties of the world. Thov came, they passed in barges, brilliant as Cleop'itra's, through tiie canal from the Red Sea to the Mediterranean. They spoke, tliey drank, they danced, and they made the dreary desert for the lirst time a field of chivalry and merriment. Ismailia was happy in the lofty discourses it heard, the superb pageants it saw, and the niasic entertainments it enjoyed, as she was proud in the prestige which this magnificent celebration confirmed. All Egypt was haitpy. PROSPECTS OF THE CANAL. 527 Only a year and a half has elapsed since that magnificent demonstration, and how sadly has Ismailia changed ! We found the population of the town reduced to less than two thousand. The beautiful palace, now knowing, neither master nor guest, has already become monumental. The siroccos blow the sands of the desert on the paved streets of Ismailia, and there is neither man nor money to sweep them out. Contractors and workmen, their work being completed, have disappeared, and no merchants, mechanics, or laborers, have come in their place. The Suez Canal, however, remains, a commercial success. European and American steam- ships- of- war, as well as mercantile vessels of the largest size, pass and repass, but as yet bring no trade either to lamailia or to EiTvpt. They pay very large tolls, but the company not only makes no dividend?!, but demands a new subscription of ten million liounds sterling to its stock, to secure the work against accident or waste. The Egyptian Government, owning half the stock, is em- barrassed, if not unable to make the subscription, and reports come in from Europe (how credible we do not know) that M. Lcsseps and the company arc offering to sell the canal to British purchasers, Gi Lian bankers, American speculators, or whoever will buy. But, notwithstanding all this, the Suez Canal is safe. The permanent interests of Egypt, France, Great Britain, Germany, the United States, of civilization itself, will not allow it to be closed. The tolls, already ample to compensate its superintendence, will increase with the steady increase of steam navigation, and that increase is inevitable. The steam-voyage from Europe to India, whatever rate of toll the Suez Canal may demand, will be cheaper than the voyafjc around the Capo of Good Hope. Heavy freights can al- ways be carried more cheaply by steam on the sea than on the land. All that can happen or will happen of misfortune will be that new stockholders will obtain the stock at reduced prices, and the original and meritorious projectors and prosecutors of the enterprise will lose the whole or part of their investment. This, although a sad result, will only be u renewal of an old experience of public bene- factors. CHAPTER IT. FROM SUEZ TO CAIRO. The Bedouin Ar.ibs. — A Wady. — Goshen. — Nubian Troops. — A Splendid Sunset.— Tlio Palace of Repose. — The Kh6dive. — The Population of E^vpt. — The Khedive's Im provcments. — A Visit to the Ilarem. — The Female Slaves. — Egypt and Utah. Cairo, May ^yth. — From Suez to Cairo is one hundred and thirty miles. Leaving Ismailia at five o'clock, we continued our monotonous way l\)r two hours. The desert has no inliabitants. except a small force of Arab laborers employed in kef^ping tlic canal and railroad free from the whirling s:%nds. On this journey we have made our first acquaintance with the Bedouin Arabs. They were encamped with their camels and liorses on an oasis of hardly thirty rods in circumference, its vcgetiitioii being due to a leakage of the small " Sweet-water " Canal. Tlu' Bedouin tents indicate vagrancy. The encampment had no wom- en ; the men are stalwart and hnndsome. How long will it be before these travellers of the sands, dispensing with their cara- vans, will be buying " excursion-tickets " on raih-oads and stcaui- boats ? It is a singular contrast of man's enterprise agr.iust XaturiV impassibility that our p.atli through tlie desert is mai'ked out, r.ot only by the intcroceanic canal, but also by an interoccanic raih-or.d, and by several tclegrajdidines. Of these, the first is tlie Egypfi:!;i line; the second, the European and Indian line; the tliird, tin Suez-Canal line. The whole of Egypt, Fj>per and LoM'cr ir.cliHk'd. A Fplcndid Sunact.— Tlio rypt. — The Khedive's \m —Egypt and Utuh. ; one hundred and V, wc continued our lias no irditibitiints, ed in teoping tlio (jiuiintance with tlm ■ir camels and horses rence, its vegetation vater " Canal. T\w pnicnt had no woin- o^v long will it be ng with their can- ailroads and steam- isc against Nature's is mar'-:cd out, r.ot uteroccanie railroiul. first is the Egyptiini line; the third, tin and Lower ir.chided. '« V J i * 1, »1 f n^i < '♦ ^ li V Itr' ■ 3^ l!!l* ■ A* ^1 1! 530 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. does not furnish suflBcicnt timber for telegraph-poles. Tliese are brought from the forests of the Danube. At the end of our two hours' ride, we crossed a broad piece of interval land, here called a wadi/, which is partially irrigated by one of the innumerable canals taken from the Nile. This wady is gen- erally understood to be within the district of Goshen. The ruins of a large town on its borders are said to bear evidences of Jewish architecture. We, however, can state nothing, for we found, on i mvin^ hero, a traveller who, having inspected the site, pro- ihtUT ces the claim apocryphal. "VVe came soon upon the i)laiu of tb ,'rei c fiver, where land and water are always changing, and found it co\o» :d with tropical vegetation, luxuriant and abundant. We had scarcely entered the plain before we observe-l troops of lank, half-famished dogs, resembling the jaclval. No one claims them, and they know no master — they are not unjustly described as pariah-dogs. We rested in Goshen for hali an hour, enjoyin<,' the sumptuous lunch which we found awaiting us there, llcsum ing our way, we passed a large encampment of Egyptian troops, all black, athletic Nubians, in clean white uniforms. Next in splendor to the sunset at Yeddo, which we have recorded, was the sunset which welcomed us to the banks of the Nile. Beyond fields of ripened wheat, alternating with the springing ludian-cijrn, and vegetable gardens, everywhere shaded by the date-palm, the Pyra- mids towered clear against the horizon. Colorless as the rocks and sands on which they stand, they scarcely attained a darker shade as the sun went down behind them. For a moment, the monotonous coloring of sand, pyramids, and sky, gave place to the soft, liazy, commingling of crimson, violet, and gold, through which the god of day delights here to enter his dark chamber in the west. All of this came quickly to an end, and the desert and the horizon, resum- ing their dark, leaden hues, left it uncertain which had absorbed the other. Jiasr Nudjii, Cairo, May 7th. — Our reception at Suez, and our journey hither, under the conduct of the viceroy's commissioner, had not at all prepared us, as they might have done, for the gentle THE EGYniAX KIlEDIVE. 531 poles. These are hospitalities we are receiving. This palace, " the Palace of Re- pose," is embosomed in gardens. The outside world seems never to have come to an agreement with the Egyptians as to the title of their sovereigns. In Hebrew literature, we read of Pharaoh, as if that were a proper name, where- as it is simply the Egyptian word for king. Khedive is, in modern E<^ypt, the title for which the Europeans use the word viceroy, Ismail Pacha, the present Khedive, is a son of the eminent Ibrahim Pacha, and grandson of the illustrious Mehemet Ali, the restorer of Egypt, after its ruin under the sway of the Mamelukes. He succeeded his uncle, Said Pacha, in 1803, and is fifty-five years old. By a treaty, which he made last year with the Sultan, the succession is confirmed to his family in a direct lii . ^lis deriva- tion is from Macedonia, and his appearance is dec'^ledl, '^^kiropcan. He was educated, in part, in France. He speaks the French lan- guage, and inclines to French tastes and aflinities. Arriving this morning, at six o'clock, from an excursion on thr Nile, he appointed eleven o'clock to receive Mr. Seward at the i iace of Ghezireh. Sentinels were placed, at convenient distances, along the outer wall of the palace, and a small guard at the gate. The chief-of-stafF and other officers met Mr. Seward at the door, and conducted him to an audience-chamber where the Khedive was standing dressed in tao Egyptian military uniform with the tarboosh or fez. Receiving Mr. Seward kindly, he conducted him through several antecham- hers to an inner audience-room, and invited him to a seat at his side on a divan. Coffee and chibouques were immediately offered. Although the Khedive's countenance is dull and heavy, he con- verses in French with ease, sagacity, and intelligence. He ex- pressed a high appreciation of the United States, and especially of the justice they practise in international relations. He desired to do all that might be in his power to make Mr. Seward's travels in Egypt safe and agreeable. Conversation of half an hour ensued, in which the Khedive appeared equally free from pretension, affec- tation, or reserve. It took a broad range, embracing politics, agriculture, internal improvement, and popular education. Mr. Seward says, if he had met the Khedive in a social circle incognito^ 5M2 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. I* i: i U .1 V d I I ■f « i 1;: he should have thon<i;ht him an accomplished country p^cntleniaii interested in education and social reforms, or a railroad contractor, a speculator in lands, or a planter, just as the subject of conversa- tion miiifht happen to turn. He has two traits most admirable in administrator or prince — perfect good-nature and equanimity. Hardly had Mr. Seward returned from his audience when the Khedive, attended by his prime-minister, Cherif Pacha, arrived at the Kasr Nudjii, to return the visit. When Mr, Seward jn-esentcd the ladies to him, he at once engaged in agreeable converse with them, and cordially expressed a hope that they would visit the ladies of his family. The well-trained stewards of Kasr Kiuijii needed no instructions to serve the guests with the purest of Mocha cotfee in the tiniest of golden cups, and the most fragrant Latiikieh tobacco in jewelled chiboucpies with amber mouth-pieces. The Khetlive remained with us aa hour, conversing freely on politlL-al affairs, and the subjects of interest in our travels. The population of Egypt is eight millions, consisting of two classes. The paramount class consists of immigrants or sojourners from Christian countries, European or American. They lead in commerce, banking, and manufactures. These foreigners, what ever be their distinct nationalities, are called Franks, and they re- tain, by virtue of treaties called "concessions" between the Sultan and Christian states, their respective nationalities and allegiance. They are not only exempt from the judicial authority of the Efjyp- tian (irovernment, but also from taxation. Thus, they constitute a governing class, independent of the Government itself. In short, they replace the Mamelukes. The Khedive's great difficulty con- sists in conducting his administration so as to satisfy this class with- out arousing the jealousy of the natives, and thus avoiding interven- tion by foreign powers. The native class are of mixed races. A small portion of it are Copts, descendants of the original Egyptians, now Christians. A large population, principally near the Moditci- rancan coast, arc chiefly of Arabian extraction, and are Mohamme- dans. Both these classes are illiterate and poor, and are called fellalis ; besides these, there are Nubians, Abyssinians, and otlier Africans. Over all these native classes, the Khedive exercises THE KIlfiniVE'S ADMIXISTUATIOX. 533 luntry gentleman ilroad contractor, bjcct of conversa- nost admirable in equanimity. Ludienco when tlie Taclia, arrived :it Seward prcircnted iblo converse with y wovdd visit the la of Kasr Nutljii lie purest of Mocha : fragrant Latakieh loutb-pieces. The r freely on political i, consisting of two rrants or sojourners ;an. They lead in e foreigners, what ranks, and they re- between the Sultan ties and allegiance, hority of the Egyp- IS, they constitute a nt itself. In short, ■reat difficulty con- ,tisfy this class with- s avoiding interven- of mixed races. A original Egyptians. >y near the Mcditcr- and are Mohamme- loor, and are called jyssinians, and other Khedive exercises nb.solute power, lie taxes, conscribes, and even confiscates, at pleasure. I>ut this despotic authority luis one practical, though not constitutional limitation. The nuijority of his subjcct.s, being i^incere and bigoted Mohanimetlaus, never cease to regard the Sultan of Turkey as their sovereign. The Mohannnedan natives of Egypt are not troubled with metaphysical distinctions between matters temporal and matters spiritual. They make it a condition of lovalty to their Khedive that he shall in all cases be loval and submissive to the Sultan. The Khedive's administration is a per- sonal one, even more so than that of his friend and late ally, Napo- leon III. Every transaction of the (loveriiment is conducted with his personal knowledge, and by his direction. Without his direc- tion, nothing can be done. It is due to the Khedive, to say that his administration is successful, and even popular. Is'o nation has a bolder projector, or more liberal patron, of internal improve- ments. He is reconstructing the city of Cairo. Five years hence, it will no more resemble the Grand Cairo of the Saracenic age than modern Paris resembles the Paris of Louis Quatorze. He has already extended the Alexandria and Cairo Railroad one hundred and fifty miles t iward lT[>i)er Egypt, and is intent u])on carrying it to the Soudan, the extreme southern province in his dominions. \Ve have already spoken of his niuniticence to the Suez Canal, but these im])rovements are jn'osecuted by him in his political character. Individually, he is the largest laiul-projirietor and greatest agricidturist in Egypt. They tell us that he owns '/iie-tit'th of the tillable land of the country. In this distinct private iliaracter he has a private treasury, and credit in the financial cir- iles of Europe. His wealth is estimated in billions. The claim that is made tor him, that he is the richest man in the world, is not incredible. What is nuu'e marvellous is, that he superintends his pcr-sonal estate as well as public aft'airs. 2fa.j :-'/(.— Soon after the Khedive left us last evening, Betts l!ey connnunicated the invitation of the Khedive to the ladies of "ur party, to visit the harem at the palace of the Khedive's niothei', 'he Princess Validi'', at the Kasr Ali. at eleven o'clock to-day. 3.-) ^" ;J4 ECJYIT ANT) I'ALKSTINE. % .1 1 There was a diflicuilty, for the ladies, after eo many months' trnvil. were reduced to bhick or white mornin<; costumes. Althou'^h no coh)r or form of dress w's prescribed in the invitation, we leanio'l tliat on no account would black be aUowed. A itrcjudicc, citluT national or rcli<i;ious, prevails in the liarem, that, if any misfortune occurs in the palace within a period of six months after a black dress or trimming has been worn there by any ('hristian woman, the visitor is responsible for it. Thr()U<^h the help of our countrv- woman Mrs. Stone, the necessary dresses of blue and lavender were jn'ocurcd, and the ladies repaired to Kasr Ali atteiuled by a i,^overncss of the younpj princess, and by l>etts Dcy. Tv/o compn nies of Nubian troops, which guarded the hi^h arched gate of the outer walls, presented arms as the party entered. Crossiii^r a broad i)aved court, they received similar honors at the second /^'ato, ami again at the third gate. Here lietts J>ey stopped, and tlic Udics, as they alighted from the carriage, Avere met by eight jet- blade eunuchs in Egyptian uniform, and conducted through a beau- tiful garden to the vestibule of the palace. As they approadicil the vestibule, they saw that it was filled with young ('ircassian slave-girls, dressed in gay-colored gauzes and muslins, pome wit!i little turban-hats. Two of those, wearing richer dresses than t!i'.- others, and displaying many diamonds, took each of the visitoiv, Iiv t!ie hand, and conducted them through endless corridors and f^alon-- the slaves following. These corridors and chambei-s wcic liii' iiished with carpetf? of velvet, curtains of damask and lace, mHii sofas and divans, great mirrors and crystal chandeliers, but woiv destitute of such works of art and articles of irrfu as are (rccmcl indispensable in a palace of the West. With this attendance, tliev were at last ushered into a saloji not inferior in dimensions or con- struction to the East Room of t!io White House. The Princov Valide is the iirst lady of the state, taking precedence of the vici- roy's wives and daughters, all of whom are called prince.^^ON When the ladies entered, she was reclining on a divan at the far- 3 her end of the hall, one of the "princess-wives" sitting near licr. and sixty slave-girls formed in a crescent-shaped group at her id; haiid. The women who followed the guests arranged thenisehc; TIIK KIlf:i)IVi:'S IIAKKM. :>'.):> V months' travel. 19. AUllOUj;l> Iln iition, we k'siruo.l , |)ivju<li('e, citlitT it' any nii^tortmu' iiths uftcr a black Christian woiniui, Ip of our t'oiintry- )l\io and lavcniUr Ali attended l>y ;i r>ey. 'i'^^'*' t'oinpa- ^irc'hed gate of tho :ercd. Croysin},' :i at the Bccond ^iite. y stopped, and tlic 3 met by eight jet- ■tcd through a boiiu- \,-4 they appvoaclR<l li young C'iri'i\s:^ian muslins, r-oine witli icr dres>es th:>u tli'.' eh of the visitiMv, by |c'orri(h)rs and salon-- c'hand)ors were fur- ,nusk and laco, i^atin ihundclicrs, but ^velv rcrtn as are (tccnicd his attendance, they In dimensions or ctm- louse. The Princo>^ •ccedcnce of the vice- i-c called priiiccssON ,n a divan at tiic far- es '' sitting near kv. ped gn)up at lier IcK arranged theniselvc- ill a corresponding halt'-cirdo on the opposite side. The vi.-itors mlvanced between tho two groups toward the divan, and were received by her Iliglmess standing. Her dark eyes are sharp, her face oxjjressivo of great cleverness, her voice clear and i>lc'asanl. Slie received the ladies with perfect courtesy, and presented them to the ])rineess at her side, and then invited them to seats on her Kl't. Tho princess was dressed in a long wliite satin skirt which L'dvcred her feet, and a black-velvet jacket with long pointed Turkish sleeves. A fold of violet saHn, witii variegated l»order, wa? fastened around her head with a band of diamonds, the whole surmounted with a solltalr''. diamond of immense size. A lar<re aiL'daliion likeness of the Khedive, set in diamonds, was fastened like a "decoration " on the left lapel of her jacket; an enormous diamond graced the first finger of her left hand. The princess-wife wore a green-silk dress with lace, hat, gloves, boots, and fan, which nmst have been lately imported from Paris (•r London, and her light-brown hair was dressed in the latest Pa- risian fashion. The harem-ladies confess being very partial to the European Diodes. They have already ordered outfits from London, with the request that they may be counterparts of the t/'ousscan of the Princess Louise. The conversation was in Arabic, the English l;i(ly-governes3 acting as ijiterpreter. After an exchange of com- pliments, which were perha[)3 no more commonplace tlian is usual in such occasions in other countries, the slave-girls brought on a ;:okleii salver iced water, Turkish and Egyptian conserves, among which were sugared rose-leaves in enamelled cups, with golden spoons' that might serve a fairy, then chibouques, one of which was I'tFcrcd to each lady. The bowl of the chiboucpie is of the red clay if Egypt, the stem, five feet long, of the fragrant Danubian wilhtw, with an amber mouth-piece eight inches long. The Princess Vali- ne's chib-uque had a jasmin-stem and mouth-piece of black and)er profusely set with diamonds. Etiquette forbids a guest to decline t!ie chibouque, which is smoked by allowing the bowl to rest in a Muall silver tray on the floor. "With the chibou<pte came delicious (^■offee, black, and flavored with the attar of roses. The princess- mother explained the condition of the slave-women. She says they 536 EGYPT AXD PALESTINE. ^ I • •• ■ b| I!. ,1 iii: • are broni:;lit from tlieir native land when (|iute youn<jf, and are pro vided with liusbands and dowries. " Tliey are very lucky,'' sho said, with a laiiich. Two hundred were seen on this occasion. They are neither pretty nor gracet'td, and appeared, as they went throuj^a tlieir ceremonial attendance, like the chorus-.sin<4ers ota (xermau opera-troupe. The ])rincess-wile said that she was In mi V^'ircassia, without mentionin*;- that she had been a slave. " AVc i .;'.< set no more slaves from my beautiful country " she addctl. u ith a sijj^h, " since the Russians have taken it." It is (juite usual for the viceroy to choose a wife anion<i; the slaves. When married, they become princesses, their former state bein<j; for<fotten. Hi- yond these details, voluntarily given, the conversation was littk' more than a catechism of the guests on frivolous subjects, such as; '•Ilowoltl arc vou ? How many brothers and how many sisters have you i What are their ages ( Are you nuirried i Why imt : Are vou <;oiti<]: to be^ How old is ]\fr. Seward^ AVhat docs iu' travel fori How many sons has hoi How old are they i lluw many of theni are married '{ Has he any graiulchildrcn i How oU are they ^ How many are boys, how many are girls i" — and thr like. The conversatioii betrayed a provincial deference for tin Sultan's harem, and for 8tand)oul. Ten girls now entered wiih vi(»liiis, citherns, and other instrinnents, and, arranging tliciii- solvi's in a civscent, gave some very sweet music. When this \v,'> euded, ten other t'ircassian girls came forward, in short pink-aiid- white satin drosses, covered with silver lace and si>angKs, Ihml' white-satin Turkish trousers and I'rench boots, and began a dame tiiat, with shoi't intervals iu which thev rested and the <riic>t> drank coll'ce, lasted thi'ce hours. These avti.stcs were soniewliiit prettier than the slave-girls in direct attendance on the prince sso. and they niadi! a marked disjilay of their luxuriant blond liair. The Princess A'alide told us that, since the ladies of the liart'iii wen* allowi'd to sei; the Kurctpean opera and ballet at the theatre in Alexamlria, they have lu'come (piite disgusted with the iiativt' performances of their (»wn ('(umtry. In onr judgment, however. the "shawl-dance," rendei'cd by the Circassian slaves, is as gran- f d as any Kuropcan b:dlet. a:id is entirely \iiiobjecti(»naI)lc. I' LIFE IX THE HAREM. 53; unj;, and are pro very I'lt-ky," tlie on this ofcasiuii. ired, as they went ,'horus-sin<i;ers of a hat she was tVinii iu a shive. " Wu ntrv " she a(hk'd, ' It is (luite usuiil 5. AVhen niarrit'd. i<r tor<j;otten. la- ersation was littk' 3 su\)jeets, such as ; j [ how many si^rtfiv irried i AV!»y n.^t : d i AVhat th>cs k' ,,1 are they i How ;hihhvn^ How (4il •c Lfirlri i"— and tlif 1 delercn'-e lor tlif now entered wiili 1, arranjiinic tlu'in- ;ic, AVhcu this w,'^ , in short pink-ainl- anil si>an^'K'S, 1"|i,l' , and hc.j;:in a dimv t.'d and the }riio>t^ ■.vA'.s- were sonu'wliat (' (»n the priniTSsi'N iMU-iant hlond li:iii'. ladies of tlie h:irtMii ,;,ll,.t at the thcMtiv sted witli the iiativr jud.ii'inent, littwi'vcr. I Hlaves, is as gnur- iniohjectionalile. I'i taking leave, the Princess Valide cordially invited the ladies to renew their visit. In passing through the antechamber, deliciously delicate iced sherl)ets were served in golden goblets, then a large, i;old-end)roi(lered an<l fringed nuislin nij)Uin was tendered to each ^'uest, with which she touched her lips, and ])assed on. The slave- tniins, in crescent i)latoons, followed through the corridors to the vostil)ule, bringing to the visitors their cloaks, smoothly folded, in ptM-fumed satin b:igs. The eunuch guards made the same homage to the guests as when they entered, and the inseparable and invalu- ii'de IJetts Hey was at the gate. Luly Mary Wortley Montagu's incomparable letters were, we think, the first revelatioi'. of harem-life to Western society. Tliev in;iile that life seem innocent and attractive. It wears the same as- port in the ^'Arabian Nights' Entertainments." It is not sti-ange that it should nud<e that imp.*(>ssion on occasional visitors, who seeoiilv its olegnneo and repose, while tlu? jealousies, vici', and ci'ime, whicli it so often develops, are concealed. We have been content to .-peak iif what we saw, and as wi' saw it. The princess-nu>tlier seemed a matron who would he held in respect in any court or in any social ciivh'. Notwithstanding tlii' assurance she gave us, c(»neerning the I'dac.ition of the Circassian slaves, they seemed, without exicpfioii, illiterati' and dnll. While the harem betra\ed notliing of ini- iiKindity or imi)ropriety, all the inmates except the Princess X'alide sccnu'd simply idle and frivolous. There is, however, much reason tohilieve that, if the life is capa1)le of elevation and relinenu'iit, it will assume that character under the directi(»n (»f the |>resent emu- lous and enlightened Khedive, who is having his danghters tnuned hy Kaiglish governesses, and his sons by l-'rench and Kngli.>li pro- fcwors. I''r(un our stand-jioint, the harem is the last school to be clioson for the education of wives and mothers, of rulers and states- nuMi. AVe see m)thing her(> to shake our conviction that the system of earlv Jewish i)(dvi;amv is rendered m»»re eomidetelv doi,'iM(ling to wonum as well as to man by its eondtiuation with Miiliiuumedan sensuality and jealousy. We canm)t leave this subj(M't without instituting a comparison hc'twc.'U pcdygainy in Kgy]>t and polygamy at ISalt Lake. llap])ily. r)-".!^ EGYPT AND PALESTINE. ft?** "I ^ I f^ il. I*: 11 the institution as established in Utah is tree from the odious slave- trade in women, bv which the harems in the East, tVvr a thousau.l years, have been supplied by ('ireassia. Happily woman, un the American Continent, has never been cursed with that odious and disixustiui^ class of police which the eastern harems have had fmiii the <lawn of human history; happily still, the forced atteni[tt lu rc^'stablish the in;^titutiou in Utah is attended by the necessity ut' Cilncatini!; the children, if not the inmates of the harem, up to the standard of civilized Christiui countries. From this contrast, \v,> think we may iider: hrst, that the wretched institution of jiolyu. amy is essentially and lavorably modiiicd at Salt Lake; and sccinid, that, even with such modilications, it catinot lon«!; be maiutaiiioi there or elsewhere. i:./^..i A ornt. OK cAiiiK. CIlAPTETl III. CAJliO AXD THE PYRAMIDS. Tlic Roa<l to t]i(> PyraiTiidi^. — Tlu' Style ol ilie Viceroy. — Iiitiii>)r of tlte rucat Pyramid. — Tlie S|)lii;ix. — Maiielle I'ey. — I'se iit' tlie I'yi ainitis. — liiiimcioiis Arulis— The rhienix. — Tlie Site of On. — Ruins ot lleliopolis. — The Tree of the Holy I'aniily.— .MolKumnei! Taiiphik. — The Anieiieans in Kgypt. — The Citadel of ("airo. — A Museum (if Anti(Hiitie.-. — Modern Cniio. — The Copts. — The Niloineter. — The Toinhs ol iho Caliphs. — The t.'vnieleric.s of Cairo — The Mosques. — The Uaneiug D.ivislie.-. — tihe- i:ireh. — Polygamy. — The Cairo ol' To-day. Iu(!<r 2fii(?Jh\ M<(;/ Wi. — We luivn given the day tu llie Pyra- iniil;;. Tliey de.served it, as lliey have e.vhausted it. I'l-oiii the liiiit", twenty -tivo hini(h"ed years ago, Mhen the (Jreek iiivt e.\- |il(»r(il Kgypt, until jiust now, a vi^it to the ]\nunids was a lah(f riitii.-^ nndertaking. Whether the traveller advanced toward them iVniii Alexandria, or only i'roin Caint, an infinite ])rep:;ration, of hn.iis, and guides, and eamels, ol' donkeys led and donkeys driven, (if tent.-, and provisittiis, for a tedious and circuitous joiu'ncy among the (Ukes and lauals of the Nik*, was recjiiisite. iS'uw, all this is changed, or at least it has heen changed for us. 'I'lie Khe- iliv", in i)rej)aring for the Suez-Canal eeh'hratiou, built a high, em- liaiiked road, across the valley of the Nile, to tlie very foot of the I'yramid.s planting it with full-grown shade-trees. He constructed lUo a fine kiosk, lit the l)ase of the Pyramids, in th.e desert. Tliese iaiiirtivements are ];oj>ularly said to have hvn\ matle as an e.'i])ccial I'ourtosy to the Emi)ress Eugenie. AN'e, iiowever, have jjarticijiated ill their benefits, just as we did in the use of the pier which was 540 ECiYlT AND I'ALESn^i^. built tor the Duke of Edinburgh, at E!o; >i;iutct. i.i hu^a. A\\ iiiado tlie joiiniev, froia our house to the I';, fiiuiitls, u open l)a- rouclics, with four horses and postiliojis. Wu notice lu le a ])rac- tical dilferencc in the style maintained by the British Viceroy of India and that of the native Viceroy of Egy])t. T!ie former <lresscs his postilions in the brilliant colors and j^raceful costumes of llic East, and caparisons his horses In leo[)ar(l and ti<i:er skius. The IChedivo copies the aAvkward liveries and tra})ping-s ( '" the We>t: his postilions are Frcncli jockeys. a Mm.' *•■* » V, k: V. I'WI.VMIDH Ol lil/.KIl. (M- \i *-iik % The TVramids have not disappointed us, as they do most trav lers. Even at the jL^reatest distance they do not seem diminutive. We had reason to re<;i'et, however, that the Khedive's hi-i-liway did not continue into the interior of the great Pyrandd of Clicojis. 1'he only entrance is by an ajierture which tlu' (irceks found hermetically sealed, and which is now partially opened. This aperture is now forty feet above the ground, and is reached only by clind)ing the outer wall. 15y the dim light admitted tliroiii;li the ai)crture, we descended to the interior of the ]>yramid liy an inclined plane perhaps forty feet, and then, turning at riirlit THE SPHINX. 541 iii .(u<'i:i. ^V^ \\iU, u "pen l);i ticc \u vii a i)rac- ritish Viceroy of lie ionuer (Iitsso.-; [ costumes of tlu.' ;isrcr skins. Tlic ny-ii (V the We-t; fc* ley do most tnivol- scem diniinutivi'. ;iie(live"H lii;jcli\vin- nunid of ('lu'o|i;i. [lie (Jreeks f'Uiid llv opened. 'I'liii^ il irt reached <iiil\ liuhnitted tlirouirli the ]»yr:iniid I'v {m-ning at riirlit nnirles, by anotlicr inclined plane a hiiu'lred feet, co\orcd ;in^:'e- (loep with the sands accuinulat ,'d for a^es. Here the ii'uides lighted torches, and, niakinj; a z:<^za<jf way ri^ht and left, we walked half heat alon^ other planes, until we entered, thruiigii a very nar- row door, the lowest explored apartment in the ]n raudd, called the "Queen's Chamber." It is perhaps twelve feet s(]nart'. The M'alls ;ire of hi^-hly-polished red granite. The chand)er is dark, silent, luul vacant. From it, by upward ways m)t less perplexing than (bingerous, we ascended to the greater apartnu'iit, called the "King's Chamber,'' thirty feet by twenty, the walls like those of the '* Queen's ('hamber." Near one eiul of the room is an innneuse iipeu sarcophagus, also of red grainte. It was doubtless pre])ared to receive the renuuns of the builder of the pyninnd. I'ut history tells of no i'clies contained in it. It is exactly in the condition now ill which the first explorers described it two thousand years ago. The feeblest utterance in either chaud)er produces stunning echoes iVuin the stupendous walls. The architects evidently had no idea (if ventilation. Instead of coniing back as strong as when they inlcred the " King's Chamber," the ladies, (pdte unconscious, were literally borne out by the sturdy Arab guides. The Sphinx, however, is the most attractive of all the monu- ineuts. It is more than sixtv feet hiuh, its Innnan head more than twelve feet long, the nose four feet long, the month two feet wide. Aniia'ology bears little testinu)ny eonceridng the coi)ceiiti(»u of the Sphinx. It was built after the I*yrannd of Che>i)s. Most of ihe imnnnerable pictures of the S])hinx arc in ]>roiile. A i'rout view shows that the face, esjM'cially the nose, has been mutilated. Nevertheless the exju'ession is one of supreme beingnity. The Sphinx does not seem to wonder while it excites the wonder of the lii'holder. The effect cannot be conceived unless, together with tlu- cnlossul Hgnre itself, w; bring up its associations. Taken with these, the grim gigantic Pyrannds, the indetinalde ilrhris, and the ditiidless, tre(dess, linutless sterility of the scene, and th(\v awaken in the heh(dder imagimitiotis of events aiid of luen of whom meiiiorv, history, and tra<liti(»ii, alike fail to imi)art anv knowledge. Miiiiette ik'v, an indefatigable anticiuarv in the Khe(live's service. 542 EGYPT AND TALESTINE. t'J <r •x-j has within the last six years excavated an area between Cheup-; and the Sphinx, in whicli lie iuund a subterranean teinj)le. Wo explored it. It is one story high, built entirely of red granite, nil; MIIINX. Aviihout arches, inscriptions, ornaments, j)aintin<i;, or scul|)taro y kind. It contains ten spacious chambers, all opeiiiui; ii an I -a' h other. Mariette liey has been unable to form an opiiiiini V, j'.L'ther this temple was designed as a jilacc of worship of the renuiins of the kings interred in the Pyramids, or whether it is i tenij^le erected for the woi-ship of tin; god Anaraches, who is sii]i posed by some anticjuarii's to be re]>resented l)V the Sphinx. No iinsophisticatetl ]>ersoii, who for the first time sees the V\n mids, the sarcophagus of Cheops, the newly-disclosed temple, anJ THE PYHAMIDS. r<43 I between Choui.s leiiu temple. Wo ;ly of red y'vauito, ■ -■■...• •**<.» ij4D!-t»*, • "\'^-^-w r''''''#l^& t^^ii^^S;^ "^v^^ ' '**" ~i ' '^S^'^Ss*^^ "' •■••''^^^^S Evt*:is:. • iS^>--J,v.tv?t?f%2 .^'fs-i;3^«» tiujr, or sculpture nt I'l-s, :>11 (»l>enii>i!; in'" t,) tonii an oY\\\m Ico of worship of the Iri, or wlictluT it i.^ I iiiinu'hes, who is sup- l)V the S\)hinx. st time sees the Pyr.v ulisL'Ux^cd teniplo, imJ t!io Sphinx, can for a moment donht that they are sinij)ly se[.n!ehres of the c'ead, safe depositories, where the embahned bodies of the kin^s mif;ht rest in secure conceahncnt during their a])pointed term. We know from liistory that the ancient Egyi)tians believed, after a manner, in the resurrection ol the dead. They believed that the (lei)arted spirit would pass throui;h a series of migrations in inferior animal forms, more or less happy or miserable according to tlieir deeds, when living as men; that this period of migration would (oiitmue three thousand years, and at the expiration of that term they v.'oulu return and resume the bodies they had originally in- habited, and enter into a new existence on the earth. In accord ;iiu'c with this belief arose the ancient Egyptian custom of end)alm- nvj, the b(Klies of the dead, and of ])reserving them in cases which cxrluded the air antl other elements, and depositing them thus ])ro- tcctcd in dry, rocky caverns, hermetically sealed so as to defy the prving search of man and beast. Our exploration of the Pyramids was not altogether free from the experience of which travellers always complain. A crowil of liipacious Arabs gathered fmni the di-nial hovels of the villaucs aiuuiul, who continually demand a htichf-luish for services w'.iich were oflicions and unsolicited. Half a do/.en of thene at every point (ihstructed our way, umler the pretence of !^howing it. ( )ne jilanted liiiusclf at the foot of the Sphinx to serve as a standard by which to nicasme its height. If you refuse thi-ir oiler to carry you to the toj) of the Pyramid^, they run up the steep acclivity them.selves like so many lizards. Vou decline their snjiport in walking through the s;ui(ls; they compensate themselves lor the denial by telling you liDW the Pyramids and the Sjihinx were raised in a single night. Xdtwithstanding these annoyances, our excursion was sui-cessful, and ended with a pleasant entertainuient in the luxui'ious kiosk. Cairo, Ma;/ \*^f/t. — Herodotus says, in his account of the Egyp- tians: " They have also another sacred i)ird, which, excei>t in a pic- ture, I have never seen, and which is called the plnenix. . . . At'cord- inijto the TIeliopolifans, it comes there but once in five lumdred ycaiv, and then at the decease of the parent-bird. If it have any .544 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. ■'■■1 I H roscinblaiu'c to its ])i('tnrcs, tlic \vinu;s are partly of a cjold-coltr ii!i(] partly of a riiby-color, and in foi-iii and size it is perfectly lilcc the C'i<i;le. . . . They say tliat it eonies from Arabia, to tlie Tempji' of the Sun, bearini>^ the dead body of its ])arent enclosed in niyiiii, wbicli it buries. It makes a ball of myrrli shaped lilce an eiri:', a> l.ir!jje as it is able to earry, whicb it proves by experiment; this done, it excavates the mass, and introduces the liody <»f the diid bird. It closes the aperture witii myrrh, and the whole becoinos of the same weight as when comj)osed only of myrrh. It then ]ii'o. cceds to E<;y])t to the Temple of the Sun.'' We drove this morning to the site of ancient On, otherwise called rJeth-shemosh (Ileliopolis), ten miles nortkeast from Ciiird. twenty miles from ancient Memphis. Of course we found there n,. "images," "no bouse of the sun," no city of Ileliopolis, no i)li(r uix, nor the grave of any " lonely bird Who siiiL'^* iit tlio last Ills own doiitli-Iny, Ami in music aiul pcrt'iunc dies iiway."' "\\niat we did find is a ]>lain, M'ith here and tliere a low mouiKi of }>u]vori/ed bricks. There is a <lis[iute whether these 7//«/v'v;iiv the ruins of the Temple of the Sun or of tlie walls of the city. A monolith obelisk of red granite rises between two of the nioumls. It is sixty-eiglit feet high, and bears an hieroglyphic inscriiitidii which recites a date two thousand and eightv years before our cm. An Arabian historian of the middle aires describes another niic, which stood near the ])resent (»belisk, as an embellishment of the Temple of the Sun. The ground at the base of the existing ohcli^l; lias been excavated, and the pedestal is found buried to tlic depth of six feet. It is inferred from this fact that the plain of the Xilr here has been raised by its inundations six feet in four thoiisaml years. On the west and south sides of the monument the hec^ have made honev-comb dwellintrs, whi;-h eompletelv cover tli' inscriptions. The ])lain north of Ileliopolis is strewed with ni(l>. easily detected as having been formed by petrifaction, <d' fallen ainI broken trees. It bears the euphonious name of the *' Petrilii. 1 AMKlilCANS IN EGYPT. 54.> )[' a i»;olil-c.*«>l(>r ami pi'i-tW-tly like the to tlie Toinpl' .pf [;ncl<)SiJ<l in iiivnli. pod like an cjri!:, a> ' cxporinicnt ; lliis ! body of the dead the whole hccoiue-; yrrh. It then pm- lent On, othovwise )rtlieiist tVoin Cains 3 we found thefc no [Icliopolis, no I'lnr h-Iny, ay." tliei'o a iow niouni her these (h'hi!'< arc dls of the city. A two of the niouiiil>. (•tdyphif ii.srriiitittii vcavs before our vn. icribes another niii'. .nd)eUislunent of tlir the existini:;ohiTi4; buried to the depth the ])lain of the Nile iH't in f<»nr thnii>a!!tl monument the boe^ m])letely eovia- tlii> f^ strewed with reckN faction, of falU'H luni lie of the " P<'triii^"l ['(/rest." This is all that remains of On, where Joseph found hi.>< wife — of that Beth-sheme.sh a<;ainst whieh .lereniiah prunouneed the curse — all that remains of that Teiiijile of the 8un, which wa.>* the cliosen cemetery of the Arabian phcjL'uix, and later was the school where Solon, Eudoxis, and Plato s-tndied. On our return to ('airo we .stoi)ped at Mataria ; here arc the roniains of a "garden, in which, according to Coptic tradition, accepted by the Uomaii Church, was the home of the Virgin, the Holy Child, and Joseph, in their tlight from the dreadful decree (if Iferod. Tliev showed us here, not only the very sycanu)re-treo A. f t' I' wliicli allbru 'd shade to the Jluly Family, but a mitural sorin;; in which the linen of ihe Diyine Infant was ^yashed. We arc to)d that the Klu'-diye ])resented the tree to the Empress Eui>vnie. Wo are thankful that she did not remove it, so as to deju'ive us of the pliy.-^ical and moral virtue, if any, which its foliage imparts. This morning visits were exchanged between j\Ir. Seward and Mohammed Tau])hik, eldest son iind heir-a])parent of the Khedive, lie is about twenty, handsonu', intelligent, and carefully educated liv Eurojican masters. We learn that his sagacious lather, not- withstanding religious prejudices, insists upon Tauphik's mingling tVeely with Euro})ean society. ^Ir. Seward is also visited by the Khedive's ministers, some one auu)ng them dining at Kasr Mudjii every day. Cherif Pucha, })resi(lent of the Council of State, and liriine-minister, is a very able Jind sagacious statesman. Noubar Parlia, Minister (»f Foreign All'airs, is an Armenian Christian, spir- itod and well inh)rined, but somewhat resiless under the restraint imposed on the Khedive's govei'ument by the Christian powers, as well as by the r)ttoman Porte. The Americans in Egypt are a mixed though interesting liuniiv. The Khedive is reoi'gani/.iug his armv on the Western system of evolutions and tactics. l"or this purj)ose he has taken the loyal (ieneral Stone as chief-of-stalf, and the loyal (Jeneral Mott as aide-de-camp, and with these some eight or ten mditary men who distinguished themselves in the Confederatt^ army. All "f these Americans visited Mr. Seward to-day. While he e\])ressed 1 ride and satisfaction in finding his countrymen thus honorably I • \ i r,4«{ KdYPT AND PAI,E>^TINK. trusted and emjdoyod in a forcii^u service, he nevertheUss remarked, witii cliaracteristic tenacity, that he disapproved aiui himented a jtroscriptive policy at lioine, which exiled even former leliels to foreign lands ; I»nt it was (hie to tlie Anierican people to confess that, in no other civil war, had the victorions i»arty praj- tised so <jjrc.it magnanimity as the party of the Union has done. I* •' »■ . 1 \i Hi* ^ ' ^» urn ■ I . I J/'t'/ 11///. — Alth;)U<rh the citatlel of Cairo has hcen lenderod nnrcliahle as a fortress, it very justly excites admiration. Like tliose of India which we saw, it is a cond)ination of fortiticatioiis, palaces, and m()S(pies. It stands on a rocky blulf of the desert, three hundred feet above the Nile, and, while it overlooks the entire city, it commands a view not only of the Pyrannds of (Jizcli. bnt also those of Lucena, and a view of the Nile, from ancient Memphis, far down the Delta. A well which supplies water to the citadel is an object of much curiosity and interest. It was c\i;i- vated by Salah-ed-dyn (Saladin), otlmrwise known as Yussof-cbti- Ayonb, and from him called Joseph's well. It is two hundred aini seventy feet deep, and consists of two stories or chand)crs. Th^' water is raised from the bottom one hundred and twenty feet into the ch:unber, worked by men stationed at the bottom. Thoiico it is broui^ht to the top of the well by another mechanical process. A windinir staircase leads from top to bottom. Po])uIar s!ii)er.sti- tion, sei/.ini; on the lepjendary history of the patriarch .losepli, luni: regarded him, and not Saladin, as the Vnsscf who made the well; and at last, by an exercise of still greater credulity, it has comets be regarded, irrespective of toi)ographical evidence to the coiilrarv, as the veritable "pit" into which Jacob's ]>ious son w;is thrown hy his naughty brethren, in revenge for his having received a pretty coat. We see also in the citadel the court in Mdiich the ^ranicliikis were treachcnuisly massacred by order of ]\r('hemet AH in hll, The magniliccnt palace of Saladin. its audience-clKMubcr graced with thirty-two majestic monolith columns, was injured thirty years ago by an explosion which necessitated its removal. In its stcail was built the last elegant palace of Mehemet Ali, which is new MOSQUE OF MKIIEMKT ALL r>ir tlic residence of the youn^ ]>riiu'c Mf)liainmc(l Taupliik. P.iit a more iiiiposin*; iiiodein structure, however, in the cit.iiiel, is the iii(i.-(iue of AEeheniet Ali, and the tomb of that jj:reat chief and ruler. The n»os(iue, which, by reas(jn of its advantuueous t^ite, ita grand dimensions, and its lofty dome and minarets, is the most cuiispieuous and athiiired object in Cairo, is of purely Saraceni* construction. AVitliin and witliout, inchidiiii,' walls, pavements. (oUunn and dome, tlie material is ('riental alabaster. The iiios(iues we saw in India, thou;;h many of them have a more ex- (iui!>ite beauty, jiretend to no such t;nindeur as this mos(iiU' of ^le- liemet Ali. An order from the Khedive (»pened it to us, not as tourists, but ns j^uests. The remains of Mehemet Ali rest in aTi iniinense alabaster sarcopha<^us, always covered with rich tajjestrv. The cover was removed, and disclosed an elaborateness of work- manship and inscriptions worthy of the restorer of K^ypt. The Jews, in the time of the patriarchs, found K^'yi)t a store- house of wheat ; the Greeks, at a later ])eriod, found it a store- liouse of monuments and relics. AVith the loss of its ancient policy (if "(overnment, and with the exhaustion, if not extirp.ation, of the early races, tlie country has, since that time, been unable to defend it>elf. much less to preserve those invaluable treasures. The West- >:'u nations have been violent and rapacious in carry iuii; them away. Monolith ixranitc obelisks and nicnolith sarcophaj^i of ))orphyry, nut to speak of marble statuary, the spoils <»f K^^'pt, are found in Constantinople, Rome, Naples, Pierlin, Paris, Amsterdam, and Lon- ildU. The oi'iiaments of its queens, the dt»nicstic utensils of its people, their provisions and medicines, and even its ( xhumed dead in their jj;ravc-eh:)tlies and coffins, .ire exhibited in tlic same cai)italr, •trluuvkod as spectacles over the civili/ed world for '' a shilling; a sight, chi hi ren half ])ricc." Those who have no bettiM' oj)portunity to examine the anti<|iilties of that wonderful country, may with advantnjje study it in those stolen monuments and relics. 'J'hey arc, however, iiiade(|uato to convey an exact idea of the ancient civilization (.f I\i;yi>t. In re^Mrd to that study, they are what zoological ^ij;ai'dcns are to the knowledge of foreigjn animal races, or v.imt exotic jdants in a <i:reenhouse are to tropical vegetation. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // ///// ^^ %S Ms> 1.0 I.I .2 l^|Z8 |2.5 12.2 2.0 t US 1.8 1.25 1.4 ||.6 « 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. M5S0 (716) 873-4S03 :>is EGYPT AND PALESTINE. Ismail Pacha lias kept Mariette Bey well employed since 1863 in the task of saving sucli of these invaluable relics as yet remain in the country. The collection which has been made is not so vast as the stores which are scattered in foreign countries, but is of \'ast]y greater worth than any one of the foreign museums. The monuments, tablets, hieroglyphs, images, ornaments, pictures, and relics, which it contains, are seen here in the very region where they were first produced, and in just relation to the diftcrent re- gions of the country, and of the different eras of its history. J/«y V2th. — We must drop the antiquities of Egypt for a day or twf», and confine ourselves to modern times and the citv of Cairo, 5^ ,11! A STREET IN CAIRO. It is a Mohammedan creation, ard was founded about a. d. 070 I)y Moez, an Arab caliph from Western Africa, who called it El Knh'i- rehf or " The A'^ictorious." Its first site was at Fostatt. eight mile- CITY OF CAIRO. >4:9 Loycd since 1863 in 3S as yet remain in made is not so vast iountries, but is of ign museums. Thu ments, pictures, and I very region where to the different re- of its history. )f Egypt for a day or nd the city of Cairo. up the river. The original site is now called Old Cairo. The gov- ernment transferred its seat from Old Cairo to the present city in the twelfth century. Our visit to the old city was full of interest. There is the "House of Light" (Kasr-celi-chaniu), which, like the citadel at New Cairo, was at once a citadel and a palace of the first ilnssulman rulers. From some unknown cause, this great Mussul- man ruin has become the retreat and home of the Cojjts. Though tliey have partially mixed their blood with their Nubian and Ara- bian neighbors on either side, they are universally recognized as the only true dcst'cndauts of the ancient Egyptian race. They ac- cepted Christianity in the first century, and, ado]iting the asceti- cism which was aft'ected by the disci[)le3 of our laith in that early penod, they incorporated a church with a powerful hieraj'chy and monastic institutions, the models perhaps of those institutions that have so long existed throughout Christendom. They establislicd a litany. Although now reduced in number to one hundred and fifty thousand in Egypt, they still preserve their hiernrchy, those monastic institutions, and that litany. In the great theological dispute which distracted Christendom from the fourtl; century to the tenth, they rejected equally the supremacy of 'tlie Patriarch at Constantinople and that of the Bishop of Rome. In the main thev go with the Roman Church in requiring celibacy for the clergy, while they adhere with the Greek Church to the abstruse meta- physical doctrines that, after the incarnation of the Saviiun*, His nature was one, and not a double nature, and that the Holy Ghost "proceeds," not "from the Father and the Son," but from the Fa- ther alone. The Copts have at least two convents, perhaps more, in the old "House of Light." We visited that of St. George; a part of it is, beyond all doubt, much older than modern Cairo. This part is a cave, in which there is a Christian church, which contains carvings, pictures, and inscriptions, illustrating the Nativity and the sojourn of the Holy Family in Egypt. The Cojits universally hold to the tradition that Joseph, Mary, and the chikl, dwelt in this cave, and that the church was built on the consecrated place to preserve it. The cave, or, as it is bore called, the grotto, is divided into three !l !«*»♦«, mm i« ••a Mfc. S^-5: 'I tt^t; ^5^ i « THE TOMBS OF CALIPHS. 551 <^- -^ chambers, an outer, an interior, and a middle one. In the first is a Coptic baptismal font ; in the second, M'ithln a niche, a stone bear- ing the impress of the Saviour's foot ; in the third, a similar track. The so-called Tombs of the Caliphs constitute a feature of Cairo which no traveller neglects. They are situated just outside of the Bab-el-Nini (Gate of Victory). They are the tombs, however, not of the Mohammedan conquerors, but of their Mameluke successors. These structures, like the imambarras of the Moguls, are mosques. They are fine specimens of the Saracenic style, but have no pre- tension to grandeur. Surrounded by the sands of the Desert, they are falling to decay and dilapidation. Many of them contain fine Arabesque wood-carvings. A visit to the sepulchres of the count- less sovereigns of Fgypt may well make one doubt Mhether the ambition to be rememberod after death is even wise. At least it is possible to be remembered too long. Who cares now for Cheops, even if his ashes still remain secure within his majestic tomb 'i ^Vlio is there living now to honor or delight in the memory ot Sesostris or Rameses? Wlio can envy the Mameluke Sultans, whose tombs are resolving themselves into the sands cf the desert, while their hated race has been extirpated from the country over which they tyrannized ? It was a relief, after an inspection of the tombs of the Mame- lukes, to visit the modern cemeteries of Cairo. The ruling family, and perhaps others, occasionally build mosques over their tombs, but smaller and less imposing even tiian those of the Mame- lukes. The Khedive has erected a mosque which covers the re- mains of Said Pacha and other members of his family. Here, as in most of the monumental mosques, prayers are hourly chanted, year after year, by lay readers employed for that purpose. The tombs arc invariably of white marble, gaudily painted in oil. A carved tarboosh at the head of the monument indicates that the sleeper is a man ; a veil, that it is a woman. Cairo has three hundred mosques. This is only saying in an- other way that Cairo is one of the most beautiful of all cities, inso- much as the gentle slope of its site, from the desert to the river- bank, allows every imposing structure its full effect ; and, of all 552 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. "*■"'■ Via architectural forms, the mosque, with its always graceful domes and Blender minarets, is the most pleasing. The Mosque of Amrou, lieutenant of the Caliph Omar, in the old city, built in 042, is not only the oldest mosque of Cairo, but the oldest in the world. In a state of dilapidation, enough only of the structure remains to give an idea of its original grandeur and simplicity. The columuis of M08<)UE AND HOUSES IN CAIRO. granite and porphyry, which it borrowed from the temples of a more ancient worship at Memphis, have disappeared, and the mar- ble tablets, on which the full text of the Koran was written, liavo gone with them. Next after the Mosque of Mehemet Ali, already described, the most important is that of Ahmcd-ebn-Souloun, built in 877, in tho THE MOSQUES OF CAIRO. 5 5. J acefiil domes and Mosque of Amrou, built in C42, is not in the world. In a lire remains to give J, The columns of i-^--^ trom the temples of a ppeared, and the mai- oran was written, have I, already described, tlic ^mi, built in 877, in tho Ccarliest Saracenic style. It is two hundred feet by one hundred. Another very ^rand mosque of Azliar, thoiii>-h built nine hundred vcars ago, was repaired in 1072, and is in admirable preservation. Its principal use, howerer, is not that of religious worship. It id the most popular university in Egypt. The scientific course pur- sued here embraces the Koran, versification, grammar, civil law, commercial law, and ecclesiastical law. Two thousand students, of different ages and sizes, sit on the floor in circles, whose circum- ference is as regular as if they had been described by the com- pass. They sit cross-legged, facing inward, while the professors stand at convenient distances so as to hear and instruct several circles. Each student has a book before him, and commits its text to memory by rehearsal, constantly swinging backward and for- ward during the exercise, not only the students in one circle, but all the students in all ^'he circles rehearsing in chorus. "We inquired ill which of the schools of philosophy of ancient Egypt this form of instruction was instituted, but received no satisfactory answer. AVe think it must have originated at the Tower of Babel ! Mosques in Mohammedan cities, like temples in ])agan coun- tries and churches in a Christian land, are so much alike, that wan- dering through them becDKies monotonous, "Wje finished our tour with a visit to a mosque of dancing dervishes. The mos(iuc is a mule, unfurnished structure, containing one square room for men, with a circular gallery for women. It is open to spectators, though tl'w were present on this occasion. The brethren came into the eliamher and took seats on the floor within the railing. They wore a uniform habit, consisting of brown serge, extending from neck to toot, with full skirt, and fastened with a girdle, and a roimd, high hat made of gray felt. It was easy to sec that they arrayed them- selves according to fixed order. The sheik entered and took his seat on the floor, directly opposite to the lay members. His cos- tume dift'ercd from theirs only in being of a purple color. AVhen he had taken his seat, a brother rose, walked slowly around the chamber, and made a salutation to the superior. Each other broth- er followed performing the same ceremony. A strain of solemn imisie, on the flute, Avas heard from an u])per recess, whereupon 554 EGYPT AND PALESTIXE. the hrothers rose, one after another, and began a whirling motion, at first slow, but gradually increasing in rapidity, the right arm stretched upward and '■.he left correspondingly depressed, as a bai^ Maty ' ^^'^i. IT. .--•<«»; B « «: ! 1: t 1' ? ^■1 i '♦ 1>'TERI0K OF A MOSQUE, CAIBO. ance. Their full, heavy skirts had weights at the bottom Avliicl; held them down while they expanded like round sails with the movement. This dizzy exercise continued until the entire body of the brotherhood -were spinning around like so many tops, tlieir dresses spreading out over their feet. The perfonnance had lastctl as we thought, about an hour, when the music suddenly ceased, as if the music'ans instead of the dancers had given out, and, on the instant of the music ceasing, they came to a rest. Then tlicv walked in solemn procession around the room, each making a GIIEZIREII. 555 a whirling motion, ditv, the right arm depressed, as a hal at tVe bottom wliicl: round sails with the Ltil the entire body of ke so many tops, tlielr [lerfonnance had lasted. isic suddenly ceased, as given out, and, on the |to a rest. Then they I room, each making a udam to the superior. All the dervishes were men of full age. save one, a boy of twelve, who for some reason seemed to be held ill great respect as a leader. lie whirled with gnjatcr gravity, if possible, than his companions. We supi)08ed him to be designated bv birth or some other cause for preferment. The dervishes withdrew from the mosque without any manifestations of sancti- mony, and, when we met them after the exercise^ , they seemed to us as cheerful and business-like as mechanics and artisans. They inade no show of mendicity. It would be a curious study to trace to their source, in a common oiiuciple of human nature, the wor- ship of the Shakers in our own country and that of the dancing dervishes of the East. Having been received by the Khedive and his family, and domi- ciled in oie of the state palaces, it would have seemed to us a mani- festation of unbecoming cm'iosity to visit the other viceroyal residences. But the palaces of princes are objects of pride to them, as villas, mansions, and cottages, are to humbler proprietors. The Khedive intimated to us that the ladies ot his family would have notice of our coming, and so our visits to the other palaces would not take them by surprise. Most of these palaces are simpler and plainer, and more after the European style, than we had supposed. Sliobia is the most pleasant one. It is a palace built and arranged in a quadrangular form, exclusively for social entertainments, and encloses a lake of two or three acres, which is filled with curious tishes, and rare aquatic birds. All its halls, corridors, reception- rooms, banqueting-halls, billiard-rooms, and baths, connect with each other. The Khedive has been especially lavish in enlarging and emoellishing Ghezireh, which is the most favored home of the princesses, although they always attend him wherever he resides or sojourns. It was manifest, on arriving there, that the Khedive's instruction for an admission had not yet reached the palace. The Nubian eunuchs drew swords upon us. We sauntered in the gar- dens while waiting for the necessary explanations to be made. These gardens are laid out on the European plan, and exhibit a blaze of scarlet geraniums, and yellow flowering plants, without a trace of white, blue, or purple. Chinese gardening has been adopted 550 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. % « J :5, ■ n SL J^ ii to produce a rocky mound on an island, in a pretty nrtilicial lalu". and in the mound is a ])ictures(pie labyrintliian grotto, divided into Moorish chambers, retreshment-rooms, drawing-rooms, and pavil- ions; wiiilc light is flashed upon you at every turn by innumerable stahietites, mirrors, fountains, and cascades. Coming upon earth again, from this fairy subterranean maze, we wandered thruui^l. the extensive menagerie, meeting, on the way, the princess-wifo. whom the ladies had seen at Kasr Ali. Slie was enjoying a sunset promenade, attended by a long train of ladies, slave-girls, and inevitable eunuchs. The princess was arrayed in a dress of orauife- and-vvhite shot silk, which completely enveloped her tall, graceful figure, and covered the lower part of her face. Her eyes were ]iar- tially veiled with the customary, very becoming, single fold of white illusion. She interposed her little green parasol between her eye:^ and our party as dexterously as a Broadway coquette. The women of the seraglio were looking down upon us through latticed v,in- dows, when the captiiin of the eunuch-guard opened the doors, witli an apology for the previous delay, and proceeded to execute his instructions by showing us a long range of 'uxurious apartments. Gdded ceilings, marble floors, Persian carpets, damask divans, and French mirrors, alone justify the preference of the inmates for Ghezireh. A cuitivated Western taste would have introduced here books, paintings, statuary, and a thousand works of art and beauty, but Ave found nothing of the sort, except one table of Flor- entine mosaic, which was presented to the Khedive by Victor Emmanuel. Is this a place and time to renew our speculations concerning the harem f.s a domestic institution ? The Mohammedan provision for woman is a prison in which her suff'erings from jealousy nn consoled by the indulgence of her vanity. She is allowed the so- ciety of her own sex with f-AY less restraint than is ordinarily sup- posed, and she displays before her visiting friends with j)ride the wealth and ornaments which lighten her chains. She goes abroad in Cairo, but always in her carriage, and looks upon the busy world in the streets with veiled eyes and under surveillance. She attend^ her lord in his state progresses from palace to palace in Egy]tt, CIIAHACTEIIISTICS OF CAIIIO. 5.-. 7 pretty artilieiul hike. I <rrotto, divided into [lir-i'oomB, and pavil- turn by innunierabli! Cominji; upon earth e wandered thruuirl ay, the princess-wilV', rt-as enjoyinfi; a siinsct dies, slave-girls, ami .1 in a dress of oraniie- ped her tall, graeet'ul , Her eyes were \)iw- [c; sinirle fold of ■vvliiti' •asol between her eyi> oquette. The woineii through latticed v.iii- :)pened the doors, Avith ceeded to execute his luxurious apartments. ts, damask divans, and ^c of the inmates tor ould have introduced land works of art and cept one table of Fkir- e Khedive by Victor 5eculations concernini^ lohammcdan provision ings from jealousy arc she is allowed the so- than is ordinarily sup- friends with pride the ins. She goes abroad iS upon the busy world velllance. She rtttcnd^ cc to palace in Egypt, from Cairo to Alexaiulria, and frum Alexandria to Stamboul. IJut she goes no farther, and never alone. She never reads, and, so far as possible, is required never to think. The Mohammedan law de- clares that the supreme object of her existence is to b'j niarried, and to have children for the benefit of the state ; to be uinuar- ricd, even to be widowed, is a reproach, and to die in either of those conditions is to tV)rfeit hap[»incss in a future state. It is true, indeed, that, though she fultils her a])[)oiuted duties and destiny in obedience to the law as well as she nun-, she has not' even in that case the promise of association with the faithful in ]):iradise. For them houi'ls are appointed, an especial creation, nuu'C beautiful, more fascinating than woman. For the faithful Mohammedan wife there is reserved, however, in paradise, a condi- tion which, while it is a seclusion from the other sex, is gay, glo- rious, aiid perfectly happy. Thv. Cairo of to-day is not entirely the same Cairo which "Eo- tlien" and the "llowadji" have so well described. This active, restless, innovating Khedive, Ismail Pacha, lays out and paves broad and direct avenues, plants spacious parks and gardens, and builds or buys European hotels, banking-houses, warehouses, and what not, to such an extent that a sojourner here, who confines himself with- in the improved district, might ftmcy himself in Vienna or Milan. Nevertheless, the Grand Cairo of history and of romance, the Cairo of the "Arabian Nights," of Saladin, and the Mamelul^s, remains a great city, a maze of majestic mosques, latticed ])alaces, and brilliant bazaars, variously built of stone, nnburnt brick, and of wood, all streaked fantastically with red and yellow paint, and quaintly orna- mented in Moorish arabesque. The narrow streets, sometimes too narrow for any travelling beast but the donkey, often end in a cul- de-sac, wdiile other streets, winding, turning, and twisting, lose thcm- S(ilves in close, dark, mysterious courts, or come out upon acacia avenues leading to steaming baths and sparkling fountains. The people of all sorts, conditions, occupations, and races, known among men, seem contented with themselves, and equally gentle toward all comers. The Italian, the French, the English, the American, and the Qcrman, jostle alike the children of Isumacl and the children 558 EUYIT AND I'ALKSTINE. of Israel, tlio Greek, the Copt, tlio Berber, tlio Abyssiniiin, llm Nubian, and the Soinnalan. The nierchandiso carried on here ia as various as the races, su])- plyin^ equally all the luxuries of courts and the lowest wants of tho nomadic tribes of the Arabian and IJbyan Deserts, not tc speak of the 8uj)ply of the traveller with anti(]ue8 and articles ol' vertu. We noticed the si^n of an in^jjenuous as well as ini>;enioU!J Italian that he fabricates and sells " Egyi)tian relics." ■Jr-ai:,* tin «m Win. J. I!' ■ -^ • « >i » ■ 1 \ ' 1 \ ;S \ ^ If ji) IS,< ■ l^v, .84 J 1 i > ;» lU* - J * g:. CAIUO, FBOM Tllfi EABT. liiiiE tlio Abyssiuiim, tlin CHAPTER lY. UP THE NILE. Embarkiition nt Ghizch.— The Pyramids of Siiccara.— Tho Two Dosurt^^. — Siout.— The American Vice-Coimul. — Sultan Pacha. — Cliaracter of the Nile. — Slave Boats — AraW Vilhif^ers. — The Uirds of the Nile. — The I'opulation on the Banks.— Domestic Ani- mal^.— Personal Arrangomeuta.— A Tiijpling Monkey. Rhodahy on the Nile, May 12th. — Wo shall never cease to felici- tate ourselves that we had sufficient resolution to go to the Great Wall of China, though it was November ; and through India, tbough so late as March. We are not particularly satislied with ourselves for having yielded to remonstrance, and given n\) our projected visit to tho Euphrates. An excursion on the Nile in May is equally contraband. Though the Khedive has provided for it like a prince, yet, like a judicious merchant, lie warns us that he does not insure our lives. Wc took our seats in a special railway-train at Ghizeh, on the west bank of the Nile, opposite Cairo, at one this afternoon ; and now, after a journey of two hundred and ninety miles, we are em- harked in the steam-yacht Crocodile. Our journey at the very be- giiiniug afforded us one of the most beautiful views which the val- ley of the Nile presents. On onr right, the Libyan Desert, with its eternal sentinels, the Pvramids. The river winds almost at rifrlit angles toward the east, and is covered with latcen-sail-boats tVeighted with the grains and fruits of Southern Africa. Before us the undulating bank beneath the clifts of the Arabian Desert IGO EGYPT AND PALESTINE. !!l MUM stretches out widely, and displays endless grove» of niimosa-ti'cis and date-palms. Below these, and on our left, is the great city of Cairo, crowning the acclivity from the water's edge to its toweriuip citadel. The rainless clouds are pierced by the slender, gleaniiii<: minarets of the great historical mosque, whose walls are lost in the distance. We had not lost sight of Cheops and Cephren, when we came directly under the shadow of the Pyramids of Saccara, like the former sepulchral monuments of departed kings, but of inferior magnitude. We passed, as we weie assured, over the site of an- cient Memphis, without seeing one stone resting on another there. More of this, however, when we shall come down the Kile. Ilhodah has three distmctions : it is the southern terminus if the great Railroad of the Nile, which begins at Alexandria ; it ha,- a palace of the Khedive ; and extensive sugar-manufactories, whii.!i are his private property. The people received us kindly here, and conducted us to the yacht, with the courtesies of a pleasant sere- nade, torch-lights and bonfires. Siout, May \2>th. — The mountains of the two deserts, between wliich the Nile makes its way, are much nearer than we had sup- posed. Alternately the Arabian Desert and the Libyan one crowds the river, and gives it a serpentine direction. These promontories often rise abruptly to the height of a thousand feet, leaving scarcely a ribbon-width of green plain at their feet. We passed sneh a one yesterday, which was terraced fi'om the river's surface fur iiji toward its summit with galleries of vaulted tombs excavated in the rock, and long since rifled of their deposits. Many of these tonics have now living Arab tenants. This afternoon we ])lantcd our mooring-stake for the first time. in the high shelving bank of the river near this town, the name (1 which we write from a French map Siout, but which Englisli travellers call A.-siont. Now the flourishing cajiital of Upjier Egypt, it is in history Lycoptera, the " Town of the Wolf,'' or, ;> the ancient Egyptians named their towns from their temple;^, the Town of the Temple of the Wolf." AVhatcver else its present iii- (k SIOUT. 501 ve» of iiumosa-trei'.s is the great city (»t' edge to its towering lie slender, gleaming I walls are lost in the liren, when we came of Saccara, like the ings, but of inferiur over the site of au- inc: on another there. )wn the Nile, southern terminus it at Alexandria ; it ha,- -manufactories, which d us kindly here, and IS of a pleasant sere- two deserts, between er than we had sii]'- he Libyan one crowd* These promontories feet, leaving scarcely We passed such a river's surface far uy 3mbs excavated in the Many of these tuiiihs ake for the iirst tiuu. lis town, the name vi , but which English ing capital of Upper n of the WoltV or, ;> oni their temples, the ver else its present in- habitants may do now, they do not worship the most ferocious f.nd cowardly of wild beasts. Siout is the terminus of a caravan-trade which penetrates through the Libyan Desert to the great Oasis. The population is thirty thousand. One-third are Copts. The streets a.e narrow, the thronged bazaars filled with che«p articles of trade, the buildings either of stone or adobe- One or two mosques redeem the city from a general aspect of \^ilga''i^,y and meanness. The town io built on the edge of the Libyai' Desert. The plain, somewhat more than a mile wide between it . nd the river, is annually inundated, but the traveller passes safely over it on a broad embankment, which must have been built as lonii- airo as when the dwellers of the place confessed the wolf for their god. Our chief interest at Siout consists in the insight it gives of the ancient Egyptian form of burial. The abrupt rocky desert face, which looks down over the place, is pierced with sepulchral caves. These caves are of vast extent and are divided into numerous cham- hers ; all are dark, but, with the aid of torch-light, we found them hewn and chiselled with elaborate architectural shapes, with por- tals, columns, roof, and architraves. While we were pushing our exploration, Erecman fell from the floor on which we stood, into another cliamber four or five feet l)clow. He was unhurt, but after it we concluded to leave the million bats and owls wiiiiin to the quiet enjoyment of their at least possessory right. The Governor of Upper Egypt, Sultan Pacha, has a palace here, and with his stalF has kindly accompanied us in our excursion. The United States vice-consul here is a nativo. though an Armenian Christian. He has entertained us at his house, and hrought around us his sons and many of his neighbors. ]>eing a man of wealth, he prides himself on his dwelling, which he fondly thinks he has built on European plans. It is at least an improve- ment on the Egyi)tian style. AVe entered it from the street, by crossing a bnrrier two feet high at the door, and descending without steps to what seemed a basement, but proved to be a broad vesti- bule, paved with solid stone, and covered with sand three inches deep. We made our way through a dark gallery, without pave- ment or floor, to the loftv consular saloon, with a divan stretching 662 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. i «t«r •HE z ■ * Ifc. 1-* 1 * . T'S li lit S .»■■ ■■:ii li: across one end, a row of attendants on either side, and a table in the centre. The room has no external vcntihition of door or win- dow, and is lighted day and night by lamps burning American petroleum. The reception was extremely kind, but, for want of acquaintance with Western manners, was excessively ceremonions and tedious. Coffee, champagne, sherbets, bonbons, and chibouques. were served, and many African curiosities presented to us. The consul insisted that we should stop on our return, and enjoy an entertainment of native music and dancing. We returned to our yacht, where Mr. iSeward entertained Sultan Pacha and the vice- consul at dinner. The governor, a dignified and courteous man, was only once beyond the borders of Egypt ; this was when he went on a pilgrimage to Mecca. The vice-consul has never been beyond the summit of the deserts between which he was born. Both expressed great wonder at Mr. Seward making such long travels, and plied him with questions concerning the United States, of which they have only the one idea, that it is a land of universnl freedom and immixed happiness. The governor is making an offi- cial voyage, through Upper Egypt, in his own steam-yacht. We shall see more of him. We sleep to-night, as last night, under strains of music, and with an illumination blazing on the shore. On the Crocodile, May lUh. — So ftir as circumstances and in- cidents are concerned, the experience of one day on the iS'ile i> that of every day; even the scenery, though nnique and pictu- resque, is monotonous. The river swells in the middle of June, and attains its greatest height about the first of October, after whicli it falls continnally lower until the next annual Hood. It is now near its lowest stage. The soil of the valley is not ditfercnt from that of tlie Mississippi. The river is of very unequal width ; in sonic places ten rods wide, at others it spreads into shallow lakes, which leave scarcely any tillable land on either bank. Like the great American river, it is always changing its channel, weari?ig away a high and fertile bank on one side, and transferring the soil to posi- tions lower down and on the opposite side. At every point of the voyage, the entire width of the valley is seen. Its average is six THE CANALS OF EGYPT. oG3 miles. Irrigation fertilizes every acre ; the water, at whatever stage, is raised for that purpose by all the contrivances known to Prof. Ewbank, from the primitive well-sweep and bucket, aud the endless chain and pitcher worked by mules and oxen, to the steam-engine, which is employed on the great sugar-plantations. So many channels are made for distributing water over the sur- face, that Egypt truly boasts of more miles of canal than Java, China, India, Holland, or the United States. The mountains on either side are of solid rock, varying from sandstone to limestone and granite. Huge bowlders of all these rocks are seen on either declivity, or resting in the valley ; but the river-bed itself is free from stone. "We are now five hundred miles from its mouths, and yet, through- out all that distance, there is not a rock which hinders navigation. Simd-bars formed by shifting currents render navigation, at low water, impossible for vessels drawing more than throe feet, and even those venture to move only by daylight. The downward cur- rent is everywhere strong. Our yacht makes only five n\iles an hour against it, although our motor is an engine of forty horse- power. The only relief we have from the intense heat comes M'itli frequent changes of the M'ind from south to north. At every tiiru we see, on the one banlc or on the other, clumps of dwarf cypress, and of palmetto, or of date-palms. With <-hese exceptions, there is nothing of forest, and, of course, little of shade. We can well imagine that tourists, more fortunate in their choice of season, gailiug on a full river, level with its banks, find the country exceedingly beautiful, the broad plains being then covered with wheat, Indian-corn, rice, lentils, sunflowers, cotton, sugar, and tobacco — a magnificent display of verdure under tlie frowns of two jjigAutic deserts. Such enjoyment, however, is not for us. Tlie cultivated banks arc liia-her than the chinmevs of our steamboat; we catch only an occasional glimpse of the fields, now in their hrownest and most exhausted condition. Xo rain has fallen for a year. Not a cloud passes, betA/een the sun and the soil, by day or by night. The earth is parched and cracked ; the winds, which in other climates amuse themselves by driving storms of rain and snow over the earth, here make their wild sport only with the 504 EGYPT AND TALESTINE. 1. I. i.' IE 11 '■It black dust of the valley and the j'ellow sands of the desert. For all this, the voyage is, none the less, one of deep interest. The vallev, more than a thousand miles long, is densely inhabited. Like tlie great river of China, the Nile is animated by travel and traffic. Three classes of boats are employed : the stenmer, of course small, and only recently introduced, is, as yet, monopolized by the Gov- ernment; second, the da/iabce/i, a boat using the lateen-snil, grace- fully constructed and gayly painted ; third, the vastly more numer- ous and efi'ective class of small boats, also using the lateen-sail:^, and managed by the natives. These bring down to Cairo the surplus produce of Upper Egypt, and carry back merchandise, chiefly of the cheapest and coarsest clothing, and indispensable utensils and articles of furniture. Occasionally, too, one of these boats is seen, in spite of all foreign protests, and of the Khedive's interdiction, bearing a group of jot-black men, vomen, and chil- dren, whom some native African chief, beyond the Egyptian bor- der, has sold as prisoners of war, or exchanged for the trin'Kets so highly valued in savage life. They do not seem unhappy. Moliaiu- medan slavery, in fact, wears rather the chnracter of domestic ser- vice than of exhausting labor and hard bondage. The people cluster in towns on the banks, in small, low, oven- shaped dwellings of sunburnt brick, without windows. A house of two stories indicates tlie residence of a suceesoful merchant or speculator. It is sure to be ornamented vrith Venetian blinds. painted brown. Its double-latticed, narrow windows arc designed to indicate that its proprietor is a Mohammedan, blessed with a harem. The jiohammedan church maintains, through all ad- ministrations, its rich foundations of mortmain. The nu)S(jue, therefore, dominates everywhere. Aquatic birds swarm on the beach and the sand-bars — cranes, ducks, geese, bright flamingoes, and stately vultures. Xot the sjdashing of our propeller, nor even the shrill steam-whistle, startles one of these birds. The crocodile was a native of the Nile, and in the ancient mythology a god. All books of travel written twenty or thirty years ago are flllcd witli accounts of that hideous monster. Champollion relates that ho caw fourteen at one time. It has entirely disappeared since the in- CHARACTERISTICS OF THE PEOPLE. 565 the desert. For ail itcrcst. The vallcv, iihabited. Like the y travel and traffic. ler, of course small, :)polizcd by the Gov- he hateen-sail, gracc- ; vastly more mimer- shig the lateen-sails, down to Cairo tlio T back merchandise, ir, and indispensable Uy, too, one of these and of the Khedive s en, v.'omen, and cliil- :id the Egyptian bor- id for the trinkets so tn mdiappy. Moliain- acter of domestic ser- ge. in small, low, oven- t windows. A liouso iccessful merchant or ith Venetian blinds, windows are designed nedan, blessed with ii i, throngh all ad- Inain. The mos<iue, birds swarm on tlio se, bright flamingoes, ur propeller, nor even birds. The crocodile lythology a god. All 's a""© are tilled witli Hion relates that ho appeared since the in- troduction of the steamboat, and the traveller who should speak of seeing a crocodile below the cataracts would be thought as extrava- gant as Sinbad. The inhabitants are nearly all fellahs. A large portion of them are of Arabian descent, often intermixed with the more swarthy Abyssinian and black Nubian. They are strong, slender, and pa- tient. A very small class, consisting of official persons, merchants, or " middle-men," wear a white Moorish turban or red tarboosh, and dress quite tastefully in black-cloth coats and white panta- loons, imported by wholesale from England. But the common people uniformly wear the heavy turban and blue cotton blouse, with bare feet and legs. No one of any class, however, neglects to carry a camel's-wool cloak, butternut colored, for his bed at night. The children, as in other tropical countries, wear nothing. Ophthalmia is universally prevalent. Women, either Mohammedans or Copts, are never seen with men in either town, country, or vil- lage. They are seen only occasionally, and then in small groups, but, on being approached, they timidly hide themselves in their wide blue mantles, and retire to the road-side or into some dark corner. It is painful to notice how much toil and time are ex- pended for domestic wants • but for the people it seems only a pleas- ant exercise. The Nile is the one indispensable supply of the com- fort of life. Men are seen everywhere driving their small herds into the river for drinking and bathing, and, on their return, bringing home a domestic supply of the water in skin-bottles. At sunset and sunrise women are seen coming in long, dark procession?- ^"om distant towns, by winding paths, to the water-side, and, as in patriarchal times, bearing the family supply in large earthen urns poised gracefully on their heads. There is no lack of domestic animals among this people. The horse is small, but strong and Avell shaped. The ugly water-ox is the beast of the plough ; the donkey is the common carrier of the country; while the camel not only shares that labor with him, but also labors in the field. There are immense flocks of sheep and goats, the latter all black. It is difficult to decide which party manifests the greater affection, the fellah for his mute beast, or 87 566 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. the donkey for his kind and gentle master. They are insepara- ble. The Arab is violent in altercation with his fellow-man, and often deals a passionate blow, but he never strikes or reproaches r '-I l»; ^e*^:, 1! IK i" (lla«i, < 1 A WOUAN ON THE NILE. his beast. The people, isolated from all other races, show a great fondness for birds. We have heard the report of neither rifle nor fowling-piece, and every house in every town has a fanciful dove- cote with alluring twigs at its windows. Although the Arabs have no prejudice against animal food, the domestic pigeon is held as sa- cred here as robin red-breast is in Massachusetts. Pigeons have multiplied so much that ])olitical economists compute their consump- tion of the products of the valley at one-twentieth part. When Ave reason with a native on the subject of this extravagance, I c replies that the bird compensates for it by supplying guano for the pro- duction of water-melons. OUR PERSONAL EXPERIENCE. 567 They are inscpara- his fellow-man, and rikes or reproaches lev races, show a great srt of neither riHe iiov n has a fanciful dove- though the Arabs have ic pigeon is held as sa- lusetts. Pigeons have ■ompute their consump- .tieth part. When we ■xtravagance, 1 e replies ng guano for the pro- A word now of our personal experience in the voyage. The weather is intensely hot, and of course grows hotter as we go south. Our party, including Betts Bey, consists of four and our three ser- vants. Each passenger has a large state-room opening into a co:Tifortahle after-cabin. The forward-cabin was arranged as a dining-room, but Mr. Seward overrules the arrangement, and causes the table to be spread always under an awning on the after-deck, and he persists also in using the same airy apartment for his own sleeping-room. It is impossible for us to be on shore in the day- time, on account of the insutferable heat. We make our calcula- tions, therefore, to move up the river in the middle of the day, rest- in*;, sleeping, trying to keep cool, and writing our notes. AVe go ashore at as early an hour as possible before sunrise, and at as early an hour as possible after sunset. Ai every landing-place the au- thorities, having been apprised of our coming, are found awaiting U3 with the chairs, horses, camels, mules, and donkeys, needed. "Wliether we dine on board or in a ruined temple on the shore, the servants who attend us spread the table with the same abun- dant and delicate supplies as at Cairo. Our cai)tain and crew belong to the naval service, and arc skilful and polite. The cap- tain never fails personally to provide our Mocha coiTee, flavored with attar of roses, as in the Turkish harem. Chibouques, exqui- sitely wrought and loaded with gems, are served at every meal by a personage whose sole duty in this life is to keep them safe and sweet. Instead of iced water, wc have water cooled in porous earthen jars, which are hung over the stern of the boat. The wine is cooled by laying the bottles well corked in the troughs of the boat, and pouring a stream of river-water over them. A small Abyssinian monkey affords us infinite amusement by stealing these bottles, extracting the corks, pouring the wine into the gutter, and drinking it thence until he attains the height of human intoxica- tion. We attempted to correct this habit by chastising Mm, but he dropped from our hands into the river, and instantly disappeared. After searching river and bank three hours for him. we gave him up for lost, when, to our surprise, he appeared squatted on the scat of the life-boat which was swinging at the stern. -! ir ! l CF AFTER V. lil# •»»., «f ».»• r '•«% i ■}•] ^:« <^, ■'^^ !«. ■ ■'-*• •• ;:l IK. ■1* c - y. i\ ^ ( • .!! ■J '1 « : < ■•» *»« j-IW* ■ itt* <-^ •■ ■ :p K- .•^3 »i ; i i» Mm. 4:^1 •'! FROM A BY DOS TO THEBES. The Ruins of Abydos. — The Sheik of BoUianoh. — A Misunderstanding. — A Dinner in tlie Uuins. — A Xii;ht in thc> Temple.— Exploring the Ruins. — By whom were tlicy bnilt? — Germs of Religious Ideas. — The Temple of Dendera. — Mr. Seward's Birthday. Ahydos, Hay 15^A. — Though we were unfortunate in rcacliiii"- Bellianeh at a late hour last evening, we found sedan-chairs, fellahs, donkeys, and camels, awaiting us on the river-bank. The .sheik of the district, and the United States vice-consul, a Copt, met iis, and proceeded with us imraediatelv to the ruins, where we now write. These ruins stand on the verge ot the Libyan Desert, and over- look the level plain of the Kile, here seven miles wide. Mr. Sew- ard came in a cha.r, the ladies on dorkeys, the official persons on horseback, the servants, the beds, and the provisions for the night, on camels. It happened unavoidably that the procession broke into groups, which left some of its members without guides whom they could recognize. Night came on before we crossed the plain. We arrived at an Arab village, passing through very narrow and crooked streets, and under low Moorish arches. There \vq alighted and climbed some stone steps, by the liglit of torches held out for our guidance. We entered a court, or chamber, which opens to the skv. llow could we doubt that we were at least in the vestibule of the Temple of Memnon ? It was a surprise to have the room quickly though feebly lighted up, and to find the floor jrstanding.— A Dinner in tlie -By whom were tlioy bnilt? -Mr. Seward's Birthday, fortunate in reaching: d sedan-cliairs, i'cllalis, er-bank. The sheik onsul, a Copt, met us, ruins, wlicrc we now )yan Desert, and over- miles wide. Mr. Sew- the official persons on ovisions tor the night, the procession broke without guides whom ■c we crossed the phun. ouo-h very narrow and cs. There we ahghtcd .t of torches hold out chamber, which opens i were at least in the surprise to have ras a and to find the floor 570 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. mr »•« * ■-. ■ covered with Persian carpets, on which divans were placed, and to have Arab servants come in loaded with water-melons, rose-water, coffee, and chibouques. Impatient to bivouac, we asked for the rest of the party, but it did not come up. We now noticed that no J ' our own furniture or baggage had come in. Was this the Temple of Meranon ? If not, Why and by whom were we received here with so much courtesy ? If it was that temple, it was a very small one for so great a god, besides being quite modern in archi- tecture, and built of adobe. Wo demanded an explanation, and received it — in Arabic. We afterward learned that the Sheik of Bellianeh had opened his castle for our reception and entertain- ment during the night. This, although an excellent hospitality, was not the feast to which we had bidden ourselves. That feast was to be served in the Temple of Memnon, in the excavated city of Abydos. It was not without much and earnest expostulation, nor without accidents of overturned chairs, and falls from tlie backs of the donkeys, that we reached the temple, two miles farther onward, and found the residue of the party there awaiting our arrival with much anxiety. So far as ancient temples are con- cerned, we had hitherto seen at Memphis only the place where they are supposed to have stood — at Ileliopolis, an obelisk which graced the porch of the Temple of the Sun, and, at Ghizeh, a sub- terranean temple. So we w^ere quite unprepared for the vast, im- posing, and perfect structure that now towered before us. We passed through the propylceum — a majestic gate-way flanked by lofty edifices on either side — into a vestibule, more spacious than any cathedral or church in the United States. Beyond this vesti- bule, we entered a court enclosed by grand open corridors, of which only the basement, a double colonnade, and the architraves, remain, the solid roof having entirely fallen in, the massive slabs remaining, with the exception of here and there one long since removed. This court is the inner vestibule of the temple. It was too dark to see more. Dinner had been laid in a long, dark chamber, which might be the nave of the temple, and our mattresses had been spread in high-vaulted chambers at the side. Were not these mag- nificent accommodations for travellers ? Perhaps our banqueting- RUINS OF ABYDOS. 571 hall was the nuptial chamber of Isis and Osiris, perhaps it was the mausoleum of Memnon. Perhaps our sleeping-rooms were the sacristies of the priests who assisted at one or both of those ceremo- nies. We had scarcely sat down to the much-needed entertain- ment before we were smothered and sickened by an atmospliere of heat and mould. We beat a hasty retreat to the open corridor. Here we had for a table a broad granite slab, which had fallen from the roof many ages since. We dined with the shadows of the mas- sive columns projected over us by the torch-lights of our bearers. The ladies retired to their stately rooms, but a trial of half an hour proved sleep, and even life, impossible there. The pallets were brought out and spread on the floor of the open dining-hall. All were wakeful, and contemplated for hours this strange experience of sleeping in the Libyan Desert under the starlif sky. Our thoughts wandered through the past and in the infinite, but we were occasionally brought back by the heavy breathing of our sleep- ing, staff-armed Arabian sentinels, the braying of the donkeys, or the piteous moaning of the weary camels, at the outer verge of our un- rivalled chamber. We rose before the sun, and, while the air was yet comparatively cool, explored the edifice, which consists of seven parallel naves or complete buildings, each with a vaulted roof, each nave two hnn- dred feet long, and terminating in an elaborate and imposing sanc- tuary. This peculiar form of the temple suggests the idea that it was dedicated to the worship, not of one god, but of seven gods. Arcliseologists, however, are not agreed on that point. Besides the naves and the sanctuaries, there are other spacious chambers, some behind the latter, and others behind the propylaeum. Of these chambers some may be supposed to have contained vessels of sacri- fice, some sacred treasures, and others to have been the cells of the priests who were vowed to chastity, poverty, and penance. No part of the temple was adapted to the accommodation of a mass or con- gi'egation of worshippers. On the wall of an interior corridor is a tablet which contains a chronological record of the names and seals of seventy-six successive kings of Egypt, beginning with Menes, the founder of the monarchy and builder of Memphis, and ending with 572 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. r 11 n ( • «■.{ r. 'V.I. t n •. :" 5-* ;f.« Sctis, whose statue, with that of his son liaiuoses, stands at the base, as if reading the interesting genealogical record, a mutilated copy of which is preserved in the British Museum, and there called the " Stone of Abydos." Every part of the walls, the interior as well as the exterior, is covered with sculptures and hieroglyphics. Sonio of these pictures represent the birth of Osiris, his marriage with Isis, his death, and his apotheosis. They present him also in three beneticent characters, as the god of the ^"ile, the god of the sun, and the god of agriculture. And they exhibit Isis in her three at- tractive characters, as goddess of the moon, goddess of wine, and goddess of love Other pictures present, allegorically, Osiris, Isis, and their son Horus, as the benevolent deities receiving sacrifices, and the treacherous brother Typhon, who dethrones Osiris, as the god of evil — in other words, the devil. With the benevolent dei- ties are associated animals of a gentle nature, also exalted to tlio divine, as in the Christian pictures of the middle ages the land) is associated with the beloved disciple John. The ox is a sacred em- blem of Osiris, and the cow of Isis. The evil deity, likewise, lias his brute representative in the crocodile, the hippopotamus, and the ass. The first inquiry that a disciple made, on hearing the fcaifid prophecy of the Saviour, was, " Master, when shall these things be ? " The first inquiry that a traveller makes, when he confronts the devastated walls of Abydos, is, "When were these things built ? " History records that Abydos flourished before the Persian conquest, and that it fell into ruin at the time of the Mohammedan invasion. Until the reign of the present Khedive, the vast ruins lay buried under a mean Arab village. The hieroglyphics on tlio tombs at Abydos show that they were built within a period of nine hundred years, which period began with the year 37<'0 before our era — of course, five thousand five hundred and sev- enty yaars ago. The builders must have had some experience in architecture before these majestic structures could be produced. If this account does not agree with Archbishop Usher's chronology, it is not for us to reconcile the conflict. History also has settled some other points of interest concerning this temple: First, that RUINS OF ARYDOS. 573 , stands at the base, 1, a nuitiluted copy id there culled tlic the interior as well eroglyphics. Sonio 1, his marriage with lit him also in throo the god of the sun, Isis in her three at- addess of wine, ami ;orically, Osiris, Isis, receiving sacriliccri, ironcs Osiris, as the the benevolent dei- , also exalted to tlio lie ages the lamb is lie ox is a sacred ciii- 1 deity, likewise, has } hippopotamus, and hearing the feai-i'ul shall these things ,, when he confronts were these things ;d before the Persian »f the Mohammedan ledive, the vast ruins hieroglyphics on the |ilt within a period with the year 3700 hundred and sev- lad some experience |s could be produced. Usher's chronology, fory also has settled temple: First, that its constniction was contemporary with the Egyptian obelisk at Luxor; second, that it was dedicated to Osiris; and, third, that it was culled Memnoniuiii. Ihit where is the tomb of Osiiris? The same veneration which the Christian world bestows on the sepidchre at Jerusalem was paid by the Egy})tiuiis to the tond) of Osiris. According to Plutandi, it was the det-tination of their pilgrimages in life, and the place near Mhich, if circumstances allowed, they caused themselves to be buried. Adjacent to the great Temple of Abydos is the Temple of Kameses II. A dila})i- dated wall, now only four feet high, encloses an inmiense mass of dthns. Mariette Bey confesses his inability to reproduce, Irom these ruins, the plan of the original structure. At the side of this Temple of Rameses there is a high hillock, called the Kom-ses-Sul- tan. This hillock has been formed by tiers of catacombs one above the other. Many valuable funereal treasures have already been removed to the museum at Cairo. Mariette Bey is encouraged, by discoveries already made, in his hope of finding among them the valuable tomb of Osiris. Let us now roUect a moment. We have here, at Abydos, ascended to a very early age of human civilization. We have learned from this study that in that age mankind were no less perplexed than they now arc with the problem of the origin of good and evil ; that, incapable of tracing the beneficent and injurious natural forces to a first and just Creator of both, they dciiicd and worshipped those natural forces themselves, magnifying and blessing the good, and deprecating and propitiating the evil. In ancient times, nations were more isolated than now, but the ])erplcxity of the human mind concerning good find evil was as universal then as it is no"w. Each nation improve 1 and adopted any supposed discovery of another. The mythologies of Greece and Rome, supposed to clear up the mysterious origin of good and evil, were borrowed from Egypt, and it seems probable that those which still linger in Hindostan and China were brought from the same primitive source. Finally, we have learned here that the monastic and ascetic systems, which yet prevail in every part of Asia, and which still have a strong foothold among Christian na- «"**■, Mm. SMI «»■ ■ .-1 *»>■. 1 •*« M JStH I" TEMPLE OF DENDERA. 575 tions, existed here, under a theology which has untimely perished, leaving neither priest nor votary on the face of the globe. There are more reflections of a less general character. "When the chil- dren of Israel insisted that Moses should set up a golden calf for their worship, did they do more than adopt the Egyptian dedica- tion of the ox and the cow to Osiris and Isis? Was the Egyptian apotheosis of the crocodile and the serpent the germ of the idea of the evil serpent which tempted our first parents to their fall in Eden ? Was it the germinal idea of the brazen serpent which Moses " lifted up ? " Has the capacity of man for religious knowl- edge its limit, beyond which it cannot go, and is each of its various systems, although perverted, based on some intuitive idea or abused revelation? Kenneh, May 17th. — ^We planted our stake here at four o'clock yesterday afternoon, and immediately proceeded to explore the Temple of Dendera'. It is more modern and better preserved, though less interesting, than the Memnonium. Its construction was begun by one of the Ptolemies, two hundred and fifty years before the Christian era, and was completed under the Emperor Tiberius, while our Saviour was yet living in Jerusalem. Some of its decora- tions were added in the reign of Nero. It has thus happened that, though it does not combine the profane with any thing sacred, it does combine illustrations of different . profane systems. It com- bines the history, mythology, and science, of ancient Egypt. It is elaborate equally in design and execution. AVe can hardly count its halls and chambers. The v;alls, the ceilings, the columns, the doors, the windows, the capitals, the surbases and pedestals, and even the stc.Ircases, are crowded with texts and bass-reliefs. These have such a mutual correspondence that the antiquary finds it not difficult to penetrate their meaning, and even the ceremonies of worship. The temple was designed as a hall in which to celebrate the inauguration of the sovereign of Egypt in three cliaractevs, as lung of Upper Egypt, King of Lower Egypt, and chief pontifi' in the worship of Isis. The ceremonies i ^-nsisted in stately proces- sions, sacrifices, prayers, and offerings. There is a well-marked 576 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. Be •*• ■* -■■m $ ^% '•6: I '■ if - ""^fj ^ c division of the chambers into four groups: the first, a vestibule or open hall, in the place of the propylasum, which was customary in Egypt ; a grand gate-way, which was opened to the king alone • with lesser ones on either side, which gave access to priests and others who brought offerings. A bass-relief on the north side shows the progress of the sovereign as King of Lower Egypt ; a similar tablet, on the opposite side, his entrance as King of Upper Egypt. In these ceremonies, two deities, Tlioth, who was a brother of Isis (and whom the Greeks recognize as Mercury), and Ilorus, her son, pour on the king's head the water of purification. Two goddesses invest him with a double crown. Then, two deities, one from Ileliopolis, in Upper Egypt, the other from Thebes, in Lower Egypt, take the king by the hand, and conduct him into the pres- ence of Isis. The second group of chambers, ten in number, wore all closed and painted black. The procession was formed in one of these silent halls, and the ofterings were prepared for a feast in another. The walls of one of them are . namented with four boats, like those now in use on the Nile, the boats being carried in pro- cession. Each of these boats contains, at the middle, a long chest or box, covered with a thick white veil. This chest corresponds exactly with the descriptions of the " ark of the covenant " which was held in such regard by the Jews. One of the chambers was a laboratoiy where incense, oils, and essences were prepared for per- fuming the statues of the gods. Others contained rich vestments for covering their limbs. The offerings to the gods, as painted on the walls, were all sorts of birds, animals, fine clothing, and ornaments of silver and gold. Instead of the one sanctuary, as at the Memnonium, there are two here, one dedicated to Osiris, the other to Isis. The former is ornamented with a representation of his death, resurrection, and triumph. Wo were more interested, however, in a small interior structure, in the complete form of a temple, in which was celebrated the feast of the New Year, which took its date from a transit of Sirius. This hall 1ms twelve columns, which arc respectively dedicated to the several months. There is also a dark chamber of exquisite architecture which was used for the preservation of mysterious objects, which none but the king MR. SEWARD'S BIRTHDAY. 577 and tlie pontiff were permitted to see. Stranger, however, than any of these are the labyrinthine subterranean chambers, properly called crypts. They are without doors or windows and yet their walls are covered with inscriptions, and these recite the date of their construction, but not their use. It ib supposed that they were built as places of deposit and concealment of the treasures and sacred vessels and vestments, in case of surprise by an enemy. However this may be, we can never forget the demonstration of their present use, which we encountered. "With the aid of torches, we crept on our knees through an opening which had been made in the wall that enclosed one of them. As we rose to our feet, there was a deafening noise, accompanied with a motion of the air^ like the flapping of the sails of a ship in a storm at sea, and thou- sands of frightened bats came dashing against us, making their way into the outer light, from which they had taken refuge. Cleo- patra caused the ornamentation of the outer wall to be completed with an intaglio of herself, and another of her son, the child of Julius Cajsar. This figure is inferior to the Grecian statuary of that period ; nevertheless, its outlines agree with the accepted rep- resentations of that eccentric and fascinating queen. Avoiding alike the darkened sanctuaries and the crypts, we spread our table in the cheerful temple of the New Year. There, with Osiris and Isis, and Thoth and Horus, Pascht, and wc know not how many other deities looking down on us from the walls, we celebrated the anniversary of Mr. Seward's seventieth birthday. One of the party amused us by quoting from Homer, and applying to Mr. Seward, the words : . . . . " whoso soul no respite knows, Though years and honors bid hiin seek repose." Mr. Seward answered, repeating the two other lines : "But now the last despair surround:? our liost, No hour must pass, no moment must be lost." CHAPTER VI. THEBES AND ITS RUINS. •lb. ) It It it 5* I » 1 WHiat Thebos is now. — A Grand Reception. — A Federal Salute. — The Scenery of the Nile. — The Temple of Luxor. — The House.? of the Consuls. — Ili.story of Luxor,— KarnaJt. — Tiie Hall of the Gods. — King Shishak. — Sphinx Avenues. — Wo dino vith the Vicc-Cons^ul. — Tlie Colossi. — The Ancient Tombs. — The Tombs of tlie Kings.— Animal Worship. — The Rameseum. — Grandeur of Thebes, Thches, May \7th. — From tlie first hour of our classic reading, Tliebes is the one place which we have most desired, and least of all hoped, to sec. But, we are here, moored under the east bank of the jS'ile, which once supported that glorious city of antiqiiity, We have come too late, by thousands of years, to verify the descrip- tions given of it by the poets and historians of old. There are no longer "a hundred gates" here, nor is there one gate, nor a wall, nor a trace of a wall. There are no monuments by which we could decide the disputed question whether the Diospolis, situated on the cast bank of the Nile, and including Luxor and Karnak, was the whole of Thebes, or whether it extended across the river, and included the Colossi, the Memnonium, and the Necropolis. We must first note, not vvhat Thebes was, but what it is now. Our deck is forty feet perpendicularly below tlic top of the bank, There was no wharf, no dock, no bund, no ghaut ; there is no stone stairway, there is no wooden one. In anticipation of our coming, the sheik (governor), by direction of Sultan Pacha, has e.\- ravated steps in tho loose, dry earth. They will serve us pcrliapa to reach the summit, but they will need to be repaired for our re- rs. , Salute. — The Scenery of the ::;oii.suls.— History of Luxor.— )hinx Avenues.— Wc diuo vith The Tombs of the Kings.— 2bes. ' of our classic reading, it desired, and least of id under tlie cast bank jrious city of antii]iiity. I'B, to verify the dcscrip- ans of old. There are there one gate, nor a lonuments by which we the Diospolis, situated ng Luxor and Karnak, ended across the river, and the Necropolis, as, but what it is no\v. w the top of the bank. no ghaut ; there is no In anticipation of our )f Sultan Pacha, has ex- V will serve us perhaps be repaired for our re- Cfi 580 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. ft. ^5m i\ MS : J* /I turn. Moreover, we are having a grand reception. Ali Murad EiFendi, the loyal United States consul, although he is a true Mus- sulman, has not only displayed the broad and bright United State flag at his house-top, but also the gorgeous banner of Brazil, and at this moment he is pouring down upon us, with a single rusty musket, a Federal salute of eighteen guns, from his balcony. All the people of Thebes are on the bank to receive us. They consist of twelve mule-drivers, with their mules ; twelve donkey-drivers, with their asses; ten or a dozen manufacturers and vendors of antiquities and relics, and with an outside attendance of as many fellahs, brought here by the unusual sight of bonfires kin- dled on the bank. We ascend, we reach the summit, we stand upon the sacred plain, we dismiss the muleteers and donkey- boys for the night, we thread our way through a musty Arab vil- lage to the consulate. In the upper chambers we pay our acknowl- edgments, take Mocha coffee, and a chibouque. 3fai/ ISth. — The bonfires went out late last night, and we rose early this morning to make a first survey. The scenery of the Nile is at no other time seen in such delicate hues as in the hour before sunrise. Above Thebes, the river winds around the foot of the Arabian Desert, forming a chain of small gray lakes. The licad- lands in these lakes are crowned with scattering farms, and not only the outlines of each tree, but every broad leaf, is distinctly defined on the clear horizon. A mirage from afiir reflects the same desert, lakes, headlands, and trees, gathered into cool, shady groves— in- distinct and dreamy pictures, like those in mountain agates. Forty rods from the river-bank, on a terrace of sand, wliich seems to be a lower ridge of the dome, there rise before us two rows of majestic columns, roofless, but held together by architraves not less massive. Familiar all our lives with pictorial representation?, we recognize the ruined Temple of Luxor. Beyond that ruin, with the exception of here and there a m.ud-hut, is only the naked desert; at the left of the colonnade, heaps o^ debris, half buried in the sand, In the midst of these masses, towers up a red granite obelisk, high- er and newer than the honey-combed one which marks the site oi OBELISKS AT KARNAK. 581 eccption. Ali Murad uirli he is a true Mug- I :1 bright United State banner ot Brazil, and IS, with a single rusty I'om his balcony. All ■eive us. They consist twelve donkey-drivers, turcrs and vendors of iidc attendance of as sight of boniires kin- the summit, we stand luleteers and donkey- ugh a musty Arab vil- rs we pay our acknowl- le. last night, and we roso '. The scenery of the te hues as in the hour inds around the foot of gray lakes. The head- ■inff farms, and not onlv eaf, is distinctly defined reflects the same desert, cool, shady groves— in- nountain agates, terrace of sand, which rise before us two rows ither by architraves not ictorial representations, Beyond that ruin, with sonly the naked desert; half buried in the sand. id granite obelisk, high- which marks the site oi the Temple of the Sun at Ileliopolis. Beyond these debris, looking through the vista formed by the colonnade and obelisk, are seen tiie dwarfisli minarets of a sir bby Arab mosque, rising out of a group or cluster of adobe huts, an Arab village, which may contain fifteen hundred people. Three tall, modern houses loom up above the OBELISKS AT RAR.VAK. roofless dwellings of the wretched town. These houses are built on the v;all of the dilapidatc;l temple, ami of materials taken from it, and are the residences of the governor, the British consul, and the United States vice-consul, who also flourishes under an exequatur 38 582 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. Wi jv -31 1^' -v^i lK.jrJ '■■ «* r-!3 ) V .^ 1 r- ••<• g *-^-^5 B ••* ..^ « « :s. •- »\ i * '1 if r ■ '1 i \ .1* ;^'# f ;'*! «-!■ '5^ Hlt^ . J* am ' » as consul of Brazil. We ascended the terrace and stood on the pavement beneath the double colonnade. At a distance of two miles northward, among fields which, though now dry and dusty, still wear the aspect of careful cultivation, we see the stupendous gate-ways, columns, and obelisks of Karnak. An Arab hamlet nes- tles at the base of these ruins, as at Luxor. Beyond Karnak we see only the winding river and the converging Libyan and Arabian Des- erts. Turning our back upon the morning sun, we see, across the river, a plain, stretching along the opposite bank for five miles, and three miles in width, cultivated though uninhabited, subject to in- undation. Beyond the plain are the lofty and irregular moun- tains of the Libyan Desert. The immediate river-bank is fringed with palms and sycamores. At the northern extremity of the plain we distinguish a cluster of stately columns; on the left, a like, though less prominent one. The former are ruins of the temples called by the Arabs Qournah-Deir-el-Bahari, and the Ramescuni. Tiie latter are the ruins of the temple called, in Arabic, Medeonct Haboo. Midway between these widely-separated heaps of ruins, are two lofty stone piles, each showing a human outline. Tliese are the C(»lossi — the one so marvellously vocal to the ancients; the other, its mute companion. Those ruined temples, with the Colossi, are all that remain of Thebes, on the west bank of the Nile, that can be discerned within a single view taken from Luxor. Those ruins, with Luxor and Karnak, are the disjecta membni of the great capital. "We turn to Luxor. It was built by Pharaoh Anienophis III., fourteen hundred and eighty years before Christ, at the very time when the rebellion of Dathan and Abiram was going on in the desert. Eighty years later, Ramescs IL raised two monolith granite obelisks beyond the colonnade. One of these we have already mentioned ; the other we hope to see in its present site in the Place de la Concorde at Paris. He raised, at the same time, two mono- lith granite statues, not less than twenty-five feet high, which are now seen broken off at the middle, and prostrate on the ground. The colonnade, the almost level walls, the solitary obelisk, and those broken colossal statues, together with many lesser ones KAKNAK. 583 dedicated to gods, heroes, and animals, some remaining in place, and others strewed among the debris, are all that remain of the original Luxor. After the conquest of the Greeks, other orna- mental statues, paintings, and inscriptions, were added to tlie temple, airong which latter are found the names of Psammctichus and Alexander. It is to be hoped that the work of excavation, long s nee suspended, will be renewed. In that case it will prob- ably ai)pear that the temple structures extended much farther for- ward. The ruins as now seen, while they command admiration by their grandeur, leave on the visitor's mind a painful impression of the na rrow extent of the temple. W3 encounter no such disappointment at Karnak. It is the most imposing ruin in the world, devastated sadly, but not in a heap of dth'is. The ruins cover an area of nearly two miles in circumference. AVas there one symmetrical structure, dedicated to one worship, or was there a combination of many temples, dedi- cated to many gods ? The former idea is supported by the fact that there are still traceable twelve approaches to the ruins, in dif- ferent directions, each avenue broad enough for two chariots. "We explored two of them, of which half a mile has been excavated. One leads from Luxor ; the other, at right an^rles with the first, leads from the river-bank in front. Each is ornamented with a row of colossal Sphinxes, placed at intervals of six feet, not unlike the statuary which adorns the approach to the Ming Tombs in China. The entrances at the terminations of these avenues are surmounted by gate-ways such as a Titan might construct, and these gate-ways open into a series of propylsea, or vestibules, which have dimensions that can only be compared with the bases of the Pyramids. Our first visit to Karnak was nade at the end of the avenue of Luxor. It is adorned with a winged sun. We passed through four succes- sive propyloea into an open area, which has received so many names !i8 to be practically nameless. Some writers call it the " Hall of the Gods," some the " Hall of the Kings," others the " Hall of Columns." It is three hundred and thirty feet long, and one hun- dred and sixty-four feet wide. On each side of it, near the wall, is a row of columns, one hundred and thirty-four in number. They !^ I 584 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. are forty-three feet high, and each is a monolitli, with a diameter of twelve feet. In the centre of the hall are two other rows ot columns, seventy-two feet high, also monoliths, and the several rows have the effect of dividing the hall into a nave with two side- aisles. All were roofed, the nave, of course, higher than the aisles. The ceiling of all was of massive hewn tlat stone ; it has long sinee fallen to the ground. All the columns have highly-wrought and magnificent capitals, no two of them alike in design. The columns nearest the walls arc chiefly ornamented with the flowering lotus ; C* ■* ••• it »»>■ tito.- J '« C-;:3i r ■ * V'. 1j 1 n St* H OOLUMKS AT KABNAK. COLUMNS AT KARNAK. 68S the columns which support the nave comhine figures of birds with the lotus leaves and branches. The surfaces of the i)illar8 are di- vided into circular panels, arranged one above the other. These panels are covered with shields, on which are elaborately carved and painted with rich colors innumerable mythological and his- torical devices and emblems. The darkness of this stupendous chamber was only relieved by the faint light admitted through small grated windows placed in the wall which divided the ceiling of the nave and that of the aisles. Some of the columns in the chamber are now prostrate, others have swerved from their places and fallen against other columns, or against the walls. The mys- terious gloom which must have originally pervaded the chamber has passed away, and it now seems merely an endless and confused forest of columns, which has been swept and desolated by the tem- pest. Though an inscription on one of these noble cohnnns shows an antiquity of three thousand three hundred and twenty years, the masonry, as well as the sculpture and painting, has the fresh- ness of yesterday. In no part of the ruin, either on column, archi- trave, or wall, is there ivy or moss, mould or stain. Such is the climate ot the Nile. Bold bass-reliefs sculptured on the outer wall represent, in regular chronological order, the events of the cam- paigns of Setis against the Bedouin Arabs, the Assyrians, and the Armenians. In one of those sculptures he is seen seated in his chariot in the thickest of an engagement. On the forehead of one of his horses is inscribed his name — " The Might of Thebes." The enemy flee before him, and take refuge in a fortress. An- other bass-relief presents a different battle-scene Here the enemy fall prostrate on the earth before the terrible countenance of ma- jesty. The king sits proudly erect m his chariot in his attitude of triumph, followed by a train of prisoners in chains, whom ho pre- sents to the gods at Thebes. Another represents the victorious king on his return to Thebes, and welcome^J by his ministers and courtiers on the banks of the Nile, which are crowded with won- dering, awe-stricken crocodiles. One of the bass-reliefs is particu- larly ii >eresting, from its being a contemporaneous confirmation of Jewish scrr^. tural history : Iter' Q^ *»t n !: V '» (Uc; If. - '^ii II 1.. -ii {' ''■^ 1^ .H 1*7 ■*4 :^*^ ft.: ■ U .i.M KING SIIISIIAK'. 587 ^U4 1 :,yi» Wtf&kMit '!'*■ mi " And it oatno to pass t/iat in tlu' fifth year ol' Kinjj; Roliohoam, Shlshak, Kiii!^ of Egypt, came up against Jerusalem, because tliey had transgressed against the Loun, with twelve hiuuh'ed chariots, and threescore thousand horseiuen : and the pe()j)ie tvere without number tliat came with him out of Egypt ; the Lubims, the 8uk- kims, and the Ethlo{)ians." "So Shishak, King of Egypt, came up against Jerusah'ui, and took away the treasures of the house of the Loun, and the treasures of the king's house; he took all : ho carried away also the shields of gold which Solomon had made." Shishak is represented raising his arm and striking a long group of prisoners who are crouching at his feet. At the side of the victor arc seen several fortifications which bear the names of towns in Palestine, which Shishak subdued. Still another tablet on the walls must be mentioned. It recites the entire text of an Egyjitian poem, composed in commemoration of the victories of Ramescs II. The obelisk of Queen Ilatasou, which is said to bo the highest in the world, stands near the great hall, on a pedestal of dimensions scarcely larger than the foot of the obelisk itself. "What skill must it have required to raise it froni the ground, and place it securely on that narrow pedestal ! An inscription, written perpendicularly on the obelisk, gives its tiate and dedication to Queen Ilatason, regent, three thousand five hundred and thirty years ago. An inscription on the base records that the top was covered with gold, the spoils of battle, and that the obelisk itself was gilded. The court or area which lies between the temple and the propy- laea on the river-side presents a scene not less unique than melan- choly. It is larger even than the Hall of Columns, which v»'e have described. It is studdcl with pedestals even more numerous than, and equally gigantic with, those in the other hall, each one of which bore a column equally majestic ; over these must have been stretched a roof as stupendous and massive. But of this vast structure, not only the roof, but all the columns have fallen, save only one, yet erect on its pedestal, as a solitary representative of the departed gi'andeur. Making a circuit around the ruins of Karnak, Ave found a great reservoir of Nile-water, collected as it oozes through the I 588 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. it ( r ■■'% « I in li- ft:: ^ 54 e, 111 801*1 imderneatli the temple, at the flood. It is so deeply imjDreg- nated with nitre, that the Government uses its deposits for the manufiicture of gunpowder. From the bank of thi^ reservoir we looked upward through one of the excavated Sphinx avenues. It now presents a very curious spectacle. The great highway is fenced in, its pavement has been removed or buried in the earth, and it is now a vegetable-garden. The Sphinxes, however, still remain on guard, to prevent Bedouin depredations of water-melon and sweet-potato beds, as patiently as they guarded of old the approach of kings and priests to the sanctuary. "While we stood mrsing on the strange freaks of Time, a hyena, startled by the noi?e of our coming, rushed out of a recess underneath one of the fallen columns, among the debris which we had been unable to penetrate, and made his escape over the sands to some safer haunt in the desert. Antiquaries are much exercised with the inquiry, By what agency has the devastation of Karnak been effected ? They indulge in various conjectures. One attributes the work to the earthquake ; but there is no record of earthquakes. A second, that one of the Ptolemies committed the devastation by siege. But those princes seem to have been disposed rather to preserve and embellish tiie magnificent monuments of Egypt, than to destroy them. A third, that the nitrous Nile-water has dissolved the earthen foundations. But, making all allowances for the absence of frost, of snow, and of rain, in this extraordinary climate, is it not more wonderful that Karnak resisted so long, than that it is now found so slowly pasting away ? "With the conquest of Cambyses, the ancient Egyptian church and state (to the glories of which Karnak was dedicated) began to decline. They gave way to reh'gions and governments which were hostile. Other systems, equally alien and hostile, have followed. It is more than two thousand years since Egypt has had for a ruler cither an adherent of the ancient religion, or a descendant of tlic ancient kings or people. "We s;iw Karnak first in broad daylight, but afterward in the early night illuminated by the evanescent blue light ; but we saw it last under the bright moonlight, which, while THE COLOSSI. 589 is so deeply impreg- its deposits for the of t\\u reservoir we Sphinx avenues. It le great highway is buried in the eartli, liinxcs, however, still ations of water-melon guarded of old the ary. While we stood I, startled by the noise leath one of the fallen n unable to penetrate, le safer haunt in the the inquiry. By what fected? They indulge ork to the earthquake ; econd, that one of the ge. But those princes ■ve and embellish the stroy them. A third, earthen foundations. frost, of snow, and of more wonderful that bund so slowly passing lent Egyptian church as dedicated) began to ivernments which were hostile, have followed, ypt has had for a ruler ir a descendant of tlic first in broad daylight, by the evanescent blue loonlight, whicli. while it subdues irregularities, deepening' and lengthening the shadows, imparts new majesty and beauty to all objects of Nature and art. Leaving the ruin, we mounted our donkevs, and bv the liirht of blazing torches made our way through Sphinx avenue back to Luxor, stopping at times to look whether a fox that we saw steal through the gate-way, or a hyena, w^as at our heels. "We arrived safely at the consulate, and there, seated on cushions on the hos- pitable house-top, around a table one foot high, we dined after the Turkish manner, with the vice-consul, the governor being also a. guest, upon the substantials, dainties, and delicacies of the season. At this feast, each party, taking care not to interfere with the equal rights of others, dipped the spoon into a common bowl of .soup, and with his own fingers took off the parts he liked best in a succession of kids, sheep, and turkeys, roasted whole. These viands gave place to a long course of sweets and comfits, water-melons, dates, and apricots. Coffee and chibouques followed with chateau Mar- gaux, Steinberger cabinet, champagne, a*^d sherry, all brought from the pantry of the Crocodile. Here we poured out libations to Aramon, Osiris, Isis, and Horns, such as certainly were unknown to ancient Thebes, and such as only those good Mohammedans who attain the dignity of foreign consuls permit their Christian guests to enjoy. The excellent host and the governor did not disdain to join in these offerings — a circumstance which we should not men- tion if we supposed these notes would ever be translated into Arabic. Mai/ l^th. — It was yet dark when we took a small boat and rowed down the Nile. We landed on the low, western, sandy bank, and proceeded on donkeys directly across the plain. Under the light of the rising sun, the distant Colossi assumed more and more their proper and majestic forms and proportions. We halted between them. Recognized by antiquity as one of the wonders of the world, they ^re less wonderful than the dispute which has so long prevailed in regard to the purpose for which they were built. Tliehes must have been a city of religions, ])hiloBophic, and political ideas. The people dwelt chiefly on the eastern bank of the river, while the western bank became their cemetery.. Neither at Luxor 590 EGYPT AND PALESTIXE. if, It Clia r- •<* « a * " « « l< ( f t :)» < ■•1 \t Mi (.V- >i: «•.; • 5-^ »*4 .i.« e:. .. r, »' nop at Karnak did we find a trace of an ancient tomb or grave. On tlie western bank here, we found little else than a universal cemetery. All modern cemeteries are ornamented with monumen- tal gate-ways, churches, and chapels. What more natural than tluit the portals of the cemetery of Thebes should be gi-aced with thc.-e two colossal statues ? Amenophis III. dedicated them to deified kings. He designed by them to impress the pilgrims to the tombs with awe, and he was successful. In a superstitious age, not only the Egyptian, but the Persian, Greek, and Roman, heard or ima- gined that he heard, the statue which bears the traditional name of Memnon, wail and sigh in the tones of the ^olian harp. More- over, Memuon was the son of Aurora. How natural it was that he should greet his divine mother morning and evening ! Nobody believes this story now, but, two thousand years ago, no one doubted it. The Colossi are sixty feet high, in a sitting posture, indicating contemplation. While Thebes remained to its Egyptian founders, the Colossi, which originally were monolith?, retained their shape, and Memnon continued his mysterious, oracular utterances. I'ut an earthquake shattered both. Memnon's voice became feeble; nay, it began to be questioned whether he spoke at all. The good Roman emperor, Septimus Severus, reconstructed them, employing the best architects to restore Memnon's speech. But tl • imperial surgery failed. Memnon became actually dumb. Ilappilj, the repairs then made, although M'ith coarse materials, have preserved the statue to the present day. Men's habits arc formed from their instincts. Egypt excited strong interest in Rome in the time of the emperors. The Konian travellers ambitiously inscribed, on the pedestal of Menmon, the records of their visits and observations. Wf/inan was woman eighteen hundred years ago. " I, Salina Augusta, wife of tiie Em- peror Augustus Civsar, have twice heard Memnon within one hour." This is one of the inscriptions. There are hundreds of other inscriptions which, although written so long ago, are more easily read now than those written twenty years ago in our coun- try church-yards. Under the necessity of improving the cooler part of the day, for fatiguing observations and explorations, wo passed, THE MUMMY-PITS. 691 ent tomb or grave, se than a universal ited with monumeii- )re natural than that )e gi-aced with thcve ted them to deified »ilgrims to the tombs titious age, not only iman, heard or iiua- 3 traditional name of Eolian harp. More- natural it was that he I evening! Nobody s ago, no one doubted ig posture, indicating ts Egyptian tbundcvs, , retained their shape, ular utterances. I'lit voice became feeble; loke at all. The good cted them, employing ch. But the impcriiil dumb. Happily, the ;crials, have preserved tincts. Egypt excited Inperors. The Koniun jcstal of Menmon, the Wcman was woman Igusta, wife of the Em- Memnon within one 'here are hundreds of Iso long ago, are more l-ears ago in our coun- Lroving rhe cooler i>art Iplorations, wo passed, witliont stopping, the ruins of Deir-el-Medineh, Medeenet Ilaboo, and the Rameseuin. A mountain-spur of white sand-rock projects here toward the river-bank. Upon the ledge we found the rock pierced with parallel tiers of catacombs. These catacoaibs, not improperly called muunny-pits, are four, eight, or tea feet deep. "We soon became weary of counting them. Each one has been robbed of its contents. History, we know not how truly, says that the depredations began with the Arab conquest. If this be true, then it would appear that at the very period when the nations of. "Western Africa were selling their living children into slavery to Europeans, the dwellers in Eastern Africa were selling the remains of the dead as objects of curiosity to the same men. The Arab invaders of Egypt did not stop at this ; they used the inflammable mummy-cases for fuel, and the grave-clothes for lights. "We may judge of the extent of this past trade in mummies, from the collec- tions which are found in Europe and America. The Khedive has put a stop to these barbarous spoliations. Of course, the great luass of the dead yet remain hidden and undisturbed. Calculations, b:\sed on the estimated population of Thebes, and the average dura- tion of human life, give the number of bodies which are buried in this necropolis alone at eight or ten millions. Having crossed the ledge, we entered a dark and rugged mountain-pass, leading to the desert. Here, the cemetery shows another character; elaborate and costly tombs have been excavated on either side of the ravine, in the form of square chambers, and in tiers or terraces, all built so as to command a view of the plain below. As we looked up from our path into these excavations, we mistook them for deserted bat- teries. "Wo deviated so as to look into two or three of them. They consist invariiil>ly of an antechamber, like a chapel, which communicates by a stone staircase with a narrow tomb below. It is supposed that the relatives and friends of the deceased were accustomed to assemble in the outer chamber. The walls, as well as the ceilings of the chamber, arc richly ornamented with sculp- tures, intaglios and pnintings, the colors of which are as clear and bright as if laid on yesterday. The subjects of these ornaments arc sometimes religious rites, sometimes events in the life and career 592 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. « It I (I I .11 V ^ I' *' K.' '■< ♦ i tt u S^^ . ^A R r ' ) of the dead. One of them exhibits tlie deceased as general of tlio Soudan, arriving among a motley people, and taking possession of his government. Some of his subjects are negroes, have olive com- plexions and negro features ; others have Circassian features witli olive complexions. Some are red men, and, strange to say, there is a mixture of white women. The animals of that region are painted with considerable effect. There arc giraffes, oxen with long horns, and oxen with their legs terminating in human hands. Presents are brought to the governor, of gold rings and vases, bronze and silver horses and lions, silver oars for boats, and ostrich-feathers. The inscriptions carry us back to the nineteenth Egyptian dynasty. Farther onward, the same pass branches into two ravines. Here is the Westminster Abbey, or rather the St.-Denis, of ancient Egypt. One ravine seems to have been appropriated to the tombs of queens, the other to the tombs of kings. The paths which lead to both are indescribably rugged and desolate. The rocks in which these tombs are excavated, never receiving rain or dew, seem to be heated Avitii internal fires. Massive door-ways of the tombs are opened into tl^c flicc of the mountain ; then a descending, smooth, inclined plane conducts to the tombs, which are excavated at a lower depth of the rock. The tombs consist of a succession of vaulted chambers of various dimensions ; some are only twenty feet square, some forty, eighty, or a hundred feet long, and proportionately wide. Some- times one chamber opens directly into another in a straight line, while there are larger chambers on either side. Sometimes a cor- ridor traverses the tomb. The outer chambers have, as in the cata- combs before mentioned, audience-chambers or chapels. Many of them are obviously built as banqueting-rooms for costly entertain- ments of friends of the dead. Strabo, in the first century, described the tombs of the kings. He gave their number at forty. Only twenty-five of these have been opened. This has been a task of no small difficulty, because in every case the cave was found not only hermetically scaled, hut the door-way itself was covered with a debris so artificially heaped as to baffle search for the sacred place. All travellers describe ono of these tombs which was discovered by Belzoni some fifty years THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS. 593 5ed as general of the taking possession of roes, have olive com- cassian features with ;range to say, there is jat region are painted )xen with long horns, lan hands. Presents md vases, bronze and and ostrich-feathers, ith Egyptian dynasty, two ravines. Here is nis, of ancient Egypt. :o the tombs of queens, which lead to both are :s in which these tombs seem to be heated with lbs are opened into tl^e mooth, inclined plane at a lower depth of the f vaulted chambers of feet square, some forty, iionately wide. Soine- her in a straight line, ide. Sometimes a cor- lers have, as in the cata- or chapels. Many of ns for costly entertain- ic tombs of the kings. cnty-iive of these have mall difficulty, because hermetically sealed, hut is so artificially heaped travellers describe ono 3elzoni some fifty years ago, and called by him the tomb of Setis. It is the most magnifi- cent of them all. Strange to say, though it was so carefully hidden, it had already been violated when he opened it. Within this and the other tombs, the visitor penetrates a world entirely dilierent from that which we inhabit. Tlie entire life of the deceased is presented in monumental painting, sculpture, and hieroglyphics, ou the walls of the successive chambers. He is seen at home with his family. Every thing around him wears a chimerical aspect. He is holding intercourse with gods in grotesque forms, unknown else- where. Long, slimy serpents glide through the chambers and lie around the door. Manifestly this is the scene of the trial and judg- ment of the dead. All the arrangements of the chamlter and its embellishments are desig.icd to produce an eifect of awe and so lemnity. Scenes of cruelty and torture are represented by hideous fig-arcs ; culprits and prisoners are undergoing death by decapita- tion or by burning. These, indeed, are very unnatural ; but who shall say that, considering the early age to which they belong, they are more absurd than the fantistical torture of the wicked in the conceptions of Dante and Michael Angelo ? • Antiquaries suppose that the scenes of torture and cruelty painted on the walls were designed to illustrate the trial through which the deceased is passing in his successive aninuil transfor- mations preparatory to a happy resurrection on the earth. The idea finds support in the historical fact that, according to the Eiiyptian polity, kings were supposed always to undergo a trial after death. These chambers of cruelty and torture are succeeded by others, which are more cheerful in aspect. Here the ornamentation illus- trates the process of purification through which the soul is passing. Tlie last chamber, always the lowest, shows its I'.appy reception into the family of the gods. In these hap])icr chambers the walls ure covered with hieroglyphics, in which the wandering soul recites the praises of the gods, and at last, the trial being past, the soul celebrates its triumph. After examining minutely the tomb of Setis, we looked into that of Eameses II. Here there is a suit£ of chambers on either side of the great reception-hall. These cham- mt 594 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. flKMnM, r -I IS a fl c ' » bers present numberless simply natural scenes. There are boats, furniture, utensils, bows, arrows, and other weapons. Musicians play on the lyre. The chambers in this tomb, moreover, are not arranged in a straight line, but in the shape of a T, or cross. This difference from the customary form is found to have been a depart- ure from the original plan ot construction. If the excavation had been carried straight forward, it would have invaded a tomb already built. In this tomb of Rameses was found a red-granite sarcopha- gus cut in the form of a shield. Sad to &ay, this beautiful ceno- taph is now on exhibition in the museum of the Louvre at Paris, and its lid graces the University of Cambridge. The one feature of Egyptian civilization, which in modern times seems to be the most absurd, is the importance they assigned to brute animals. They not only worshipped in idol-forms the ox and the cow, but they embalmed and buried with religious rites fishes, crocodiles, eats, and dogs, and one of the pyramids at Saccara is the receptacle of mummied birds only. So we have found everywhere similar relics. Doubtless the ancient Egyptian ftiith regarded the animal forms which they thus preserved as the tenements of tlie souls of monarchs, friends, or enemies. It was quite eleven o'clock when, on our return from the tombs of the kings, we came back to the tomb Deir-el-Medeenet. This temple was a structure built in honor of the Queen-regent Ilatason, whose obelisk at Karnak we have already mentioned. The temple was raised after her death to commemorate the glory of her admin- istration. A series of courts rise one above another by terraces, giving the structure the appearance of a fortification or ramparts. Its embellishments consist of tableaux, which show us Ilatason re- ceiving her counsellors at the court of her brother Thoutmosis II. ; as regent under her brother Thoutmosis III. ; and last as herself, a sovereign ; of armies marching out to conquest, of battles and cor.- quests in Arabiaj of prisoners taken and tributes received, of vessels riding the Kile, laden with treasures and spoils ; and, among others, one of marked mythological intent, presenting the Egyptian goddess identical with the Grecian Venus, in the form of a beautiful cow suekhng an infant Egyptian king. THE RAMESEUM. 50' I ■ There are bouts, ,'eapons. Musicians ), moreover, are not a T, or cross. This have been a dcpart- the excavation had /aded a tomb ab-eady •ed-granite sarcopiua- , this beautiful ceno- the Louvre at Paris, e. hieh in modern timos mce they assigned to idol-forms the ox and L religious rites fishes, ,mids at Saccara is the ave found everywhere ian faith regarded the the tenemcuts of the return from the tombs 2ir-el-Mcdeenet. This ^ueen-regent Ilatason, -ntioncd. The teuivle le o-lory of her admin- e another by terraces. tification or ramparts. show us Ilatason re- rothur Thoutmosis II.; and last as herself, a lest, of battles and cor.- iites received, of vessels ils ; and, among others, g the Egyptian goddess )rm of a beautiful cow • J We have seen no temple resembling the Rameseum, the Temple of Rameses III. It is a combination of temple and royal palace. The architecture of the palatial part is perfect. Consoles prepared for holding awnings over the doors are supported by prostrate pris- ouers of war. At great hazard we climbed over a high, broken wall, and reached chambers in a second story. In these chambers are bass-reliefs, much defaced, which represent the Icing in his own house surrounded by his family. One woman presents him with flowers, he plays chess with another, and receives fruit from an- other with a caress. On the walls of another chamber the great achievements of the kmg are presented. Here a picture of the king is deciphered and explained by Charnpollion : " lie leaves his palace in a richly-ornamented chariot. He sits covered with ostrich- feathers on a throne supported by statues of Justice and Truth ; he is attended by twelve aides-de-camp, and is followed by relations, friends, and priests ; his son and heir burns incense before him. The white bull follows, and the procession is closed by nineteen priests, bearing sacred ensigns, vases, and vessels of worship. Fi- nallv arrived at the place of inauguration, four birds, the offspring of Osiris, are set loose to announce to the north, the south, the east, and the west, that Rameses has put on his crown." The electric telegraph of the ancients ! Ten galleries contain tableaux illustrative of the military achievements of the king. "We recog nize the nationalities of prisoners of war, though the pictures were made three thousand years ago. Among them are Libyans, Ara- bians, and Ethiopians. How curious it is to find among the captives the Philistines, who so long maintained war with the Israelites ! A legend over the head of each prisoner gives his name. Ambition seems to have done little '^Ise but repeat itself since the time of Rameses. One picture exhibits a basket filled with the hands of prisoners, which were cut ofi" on the battle-field, and brought to the king as trophies. This practice, though it antedates by far the North- American custom of scalping the deceased enemy, is akin to it. The Rameseum was for Egypt what the triumphal arch of Adrian was for Rome, what the Arc de Triomphe is for France. Here is the speech which one of the Egyptia" gods addresses to a victorious 1! p.- I: m EGYPT AND PALESTINE. ■■■« e^;^;, •^^•^,1 ir jl 1? M^ *»■" », s; chief : " I turn my face to the north, and I see Phoenicia lying at your feet ; it is my will that the natives bring you their silver, their gold, and tlieir precious stones. I look eastward, and I see Arabia furnishing you with pei'fumes, rare woods, and fruits. 1 turn niy face to the west, and I command the inhabitants of Libya to rend<!r you their honuige." Wherein does the Trumbull Gallery in the rotunda of the C:i})- itol at Washington diti'er from the ten triumphal galleries of the Rameseum 'i A gigantic statue of the great liamescs at full length, and scarcely less majestic than Memnon, has been shaken from its Ijase and broken into massive fragments, its lace upward, and half buried in the sand. What a prototype is this of the overthrow of the Colonne Vendome and the gigantic imperial statue which crowned it in the late revolution in France ! While Memphis was the capital of ancient Egypt, Thebes was the chosen seat of science and religion. It was an ornamental city, the pride of the Egyptians. Wo do not, indeed, find here all that Homer describes, but we are not at liberty to regard his description of Thebes as an exaggeration. Certainly the kings and the people who raised Karnak and Luxor, the Menmonium, the llameseuin and the Pyramids, the Sphinx and the tombs of the kings and queen.s, may well be believed to have had the necessary wealth, strength, and taste, to surround the city of their pride with a wall whicl) was pierced with a hundred gates, and to send from each gate two hun- dred knights and two hundred chariots. Medeenet Ilaboo teaches an important lesson. This ancient temple was, until lately, completely buried under a mean and wretched Arab village. In the process of excavation, not only the original Egyptian temple waij found, but a Christian church, with pillars, cornices, architraves, ch.'.ncel, and oratorio, on Greek models. The penury of Grecian arcliite(3ture compared with the majesty of the ancient Egyptian was never so effectually illustrated. The col- umns of Osiris are sixty feet high and thirty-six feet in diameter, and, with their lotus-leaved capitals, fill an area of an acre. The Christian church is crowded within a quarter of that area. Its ec Phoenicia lying at you their silver, their aril, and I sec Arabia id fruits. 1 turn my its of Libya to rend<!r le rotunda of the Cup- [uphal galleries of the ;s at full length, and n shaken from its base ipward, and half buried ' the overthrow of the statue which crowiit'd ent Egypt, Thebes was sras an ornamental city, Iced, find here all that y regard his deserii)tioii le kings and the people ium, the llameseuni and the kings and queeiif;, essary wealth, strength, 3 with a wall which was rom each gate two hun- lesson. This ancient cd under a mean and xcavation, not only the Christian church, with itorio, on Greek niodeU. •ed with the majesty of ly illustrated. The col- •ty-six feet in diameter, area of an acre. The irter of that area. Its A SAFE PREDICTION". 597 dated columns are eighteen feet high, and seven feet in circum- i'crcnco. We have finished our survey of Thebes, wc liave noticed the devastation made by the Persian, the Greek, the Roman, the Chris- tian, and the Arab, and how much, after all, remains ? It is safe to predict that, when every civil and religious edifice now exist- ing in Europe or the United States shall have fallen to the earth the already dilapidated monuments of Egypt will have under'>-oue scarcely a perceptible change. CAPITALB OF COLUMNS AT ESNnn. CHAPTER VII. 2* mm ■ »• ■« 1 <r ^'ii :J' '■mi C ':% I.-, m IT' - --v.'t n ' n % H « t f! s .<s t ■ > ii ..«- Ifj: ■JJI -1 tfi >i* ,»t! - .i.« -<* ii ESNEH, EDFOU, ASSOUAN, AND PHILM The Coptic Convents. — Youssef and his Donliey. — Our Steamer aground. — The Ruins of Esneh. — The Temple of Edfou. — Assouan, — Its Surprising Activity. — Its Airicnn Population. — The Ancient Quarries. — Philae and the Cataracts of the Nile.— A Moii. ument of the First French Republic. • Esneh, May 'iXst. — If time would allow, it would bo an interest- ing task to visit tlio Coptic convents wliicli are found in small aiiii poor villages on the desert verge. Their history is a touching one. They were founded as a refuge for the Coptic Christians from a decree of the Emperor Diocletian, and they were again sought a- an asylum by the Copts — who had become Christians, when diivcn away by tlie Mussulman conquerors from their home [»t Medeciut Ilaboo. Their present tenants are represented as being very poor, and as retaining of Christianity little more than a ritual of the earlv Church. The courteous governor and the hospitable consul took leave of us at a late hour on the night of the 19th, with good wishes for the voyage we were about to resume. Our favorite English-spealciiiif donkey-boy, Youssef, petitioned us to take him with us to the United States, but he depends on his vocation to support his wid- owed mother. -"We raised steam and cast oif from the bank at day- light, passed Edfou without stopping, but either our pilot was at fault, or sand-bars had suddenly changed. We came to a dead stop. Sultan Pacha, at that moment, coming down the river with hit RUINS OF ESNEn. 599 steamer of lighter draught, threw us a rope, and drew us over the obstructions. So we fixed our stake on the bank at Esneh. It is a small village, whose principal occupation it is to coal the govern- ment steamers. There is here an Egyptian temple, which is approached closely at high water. We, however, were obliged to traverse a sandy plain, a mile wide, under the noonday sun. The ruins, like those of Medeenet Ilaboo, were buried beneath an Arab village, a part of which still remains. Only the great hall of the tcm- W PHJLjE. earner aground.— The Ruma of rprishig Activity.— Its Airicaii Cataracts of the Nile.— A Mou- lt would be an interest- 1 are found in small aii<i listory is a touching oik'. loptic Christians from a ey were again sought n^ Christians, Avhcn driven ;heir home i^t Medeenet inted as being very poor, ,han a ritual of the early ible consul took leave of with good wishes for the avorite English-speaking ike him with us to the ition to support his ^vi(l■ )ff from the bank at day- either our pilot was at AVe came to a dead stop. lown the river with hi» T0U8SEK AND HIS DONKFV. pie has been excavated. Unfortuuaccly, this chamber is discolored by smoke ; doubtless it was used ignominiously by the Arabs. The spectator is struck by seeing on the ceiling a perfect table of the zodiac, in which all the circumferential emblems are identical with those of our own tables of the constellations, excepting Cancer, the Crab, which resembles the scarabreus or sacred beetle. The ancient Egyptian ornamentation of the great hall has given place to more modem embellishmeuts — among them the shields of the Eoman Emperors Claudius. Domitian, Septimus Severus, Commodus, and f* • 600 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. Caracallrt. The bass-reliefs and sculptures are in a low style of art, showing a great decline in sculpture and painting after the Persian and Greek conquest, but these faults are redeemed by the Burpnss- ing beauty of the columns. They prove that, for a time at least, Egyptian architecture improved under the Grecian chisel. Thoic arc twenty-five of these colunms, each M-itli an exquisite capital, but no two alike. The lotus is the principal ornament of all df them, and is treated at every stage of its development. Doubtless the religious ideas of the Egyptians underwent a modification, after the Grecian conquest, not unlike their principles of art. ■»-^ mm '•■ ■ I «■ , ».■■,• I tr,. •.■»,g « II fi I Edfou, May 22f7. — "W"e reached Edfou last night, and were wel- comed by bonfires which extended a mile along the river-bank. "We hastened through the little village, to explore the celebrated temple. Its excavation has been one of the most successful achieve- ments of the Khedive. A dozen years ago, men dwelt, horses travelled, bread was baked, and goods were sold, on its roof; and, if the Arab ever planted trees around his dwelling, their roots would have effected an entrance into the sacred chambers of tlie goes. Like the temple at Dendera, it has an immense propyla?niii, and a vast number of chambers. The whole, happily, is so well preserved, that an architect finds no difficulty in reproducing the original plan and arrangement. So Edfou serves as a key to many ruined temples wliich, like Karnak, have been unintelligible. Tliis temple bears the signature of the architect, which, in justice to him, we transcribe : " Ei-EM-noTEP Oer-si-Piitah." (Imoutliosis, Grandson of Phtah.) IB Ki ,1 ..a Like the temple at Esneh, this one at Edfou is modem. It w;)s begun by Ptolemy Philopater 204 b. c, and completed with decora- tions only in Si b. c. Our discontent, at finding ourselves in a tem- ple only two thousand years old, was relieved when we went into the sanctum sanctorum^ and found a huge \'ault or chest cut out ol one solid block of granite, and which was the depository of tlie mysterious emblems of the temple which, in earlier and happier ASSOUAN. 001 times, had covered tlio site of the inodoni structure. This vault boars au inscription which cites that it was wr()u<,dit into its present 8hai»e at the (quarry hy order of King Xectanebus, who tiourished three hundred and tifty years before this temple was built. The dimensions of the toniplo arc : width, one hundred and thirty-one feet ; depth, two hundred and thirty-six feet. The ornamentations are uf the same general character as those at Dcndera, consisting mainly of representations of sacred ceremonies and mythological devices. The work is not less elaborate, and the coloring, owing perhaps to the excavation being new, is as fresh and bright as if put on yesterday. Betts Bey's illumination of this wonderful hall by blue lights was the most magnificent pyrotechnic exhibition that can be inuigined. Idfon is modem. It wk d completed with decor:.- nding ourselves in a tcra- eved when we went into N'ault or chest cut out of tis the depository of tlie ,, in earlier and happier jUsouan, May 22d. — The river above Edfou contracts to the width of one thousand feet. The sedgy deserts become precipitous banks, and you can step upon the rocks on either side from the boat. So we notice that we are ncaring the cataract. Though the desert is now so solitary and desolate, the caverns, excavated in terraces, indicate that, in some way, a vast population once filled this narrow, forbidding strait. Many of the caves exhibit the liieroglyphics associated by the ancients with their tombs. Others seem to have been used as dwellings. One of them has, in a recess, a poor and coarse sculpture of their gods in one statue, but the faces are so mutilated that no expression can be detected. And now, when we have come aboard again, the river has lost its monot- onous and gloomy aspect. The Libyan Desert, rising into loftier crests, crowds the river as below, but the Arabian Desert sinks and retreats, and leaves at its base a strip of land covered in succession with rich fields of water-melons, rice, Indian-corn, and orchards of date-palms, alternating with groves of flowering acacias. The isl- and of Elephantina, very small, divides the river, and shuts out both its upper branches from the view. Elephantina is the only green island which the Nile contains. The river on either side is bidden by projecting promontories, and we come to rest in a calm bay, which seems to be the fountain of the Nile. "We sweep through 602 ECJYIT AND PALESTINE, ■•..»«a !», w It;* ■ 5* tins, and approacli, on the eastern shore^ the small town of Assouan, built in the sands, and seeming to be a part of the desert itself. Assouan is at the foot of the ])ortnge around the cataract, and exhibits an activity as surprising as that at Cheyenne or Onialui. Hut there is no reseniblance in the articles of commerce or the merchants, the trade or the traders, in any other country. Instciul of warehouses, there are open bins, filled with dates and other troj)ical fruits, elephants' tcetli, osl rich-feathers, palm-oil, lion-ykins and tiger-skins, odoriferous and medicinal gums, the barks of trees for bales, tomahawks with ebony handles, lances, and ])ois()iie(l arrows. Stores of rude pottery, and other cheap domestic utcii.sils, from Alexandria and Cairo, are gathered here in other bins, tn exchange for the southern jtroducts mentioned. The stores (»f either kind arc without locks or bars, or watchmen, and, if jtrotccted at all from the sun, it is only by awnings stretched above tlioni. All this merchandise is now awaiting the flood, which will allow small boats to pass over the rocky ledges of the cataract. The little harbor is filled with j)rctty vessels of light burden, among wliich the gay ddhaheah everywhere flaunts its striped lateen-sails. On the brown mountain-top which ovi'rhangs the town are seen tlio fortifications of Arabian concpicrors, carlirr than Saladin. TIioiiJi deserted and iieglected for so many centuries^ tliey seem callable (if reconstruction with a little time and cost. l>ut Assouan is rendcrcil even more interesting by the diversity and strangeness of its jiopiila- tion, than l)y its desert location, the verdant Klephantina, its (pi:iiiit shipi^ing, and its barbaric commerce. No sooner do wc i)ass the Nubian border, than a different race from that of Lower Kirypt presents itself. The iidiabitants are black, neither tawny nor olive. but shiny black. A. few Arabs are seen, but they are manifostly inferior, and servile to the Nubians ; the habitations are AfVie;in. built of the palm, the bamboo, and the cane. The sand of the desert is the floor. Assouan is more African even than Aden. I»ut here, as elsewhere, superior races hold prominence in connnenc Many of the merchants arc Berbers,' Abyssinians, and Libyans. while the laboring population is gathered from the savag(> tribes of inferior Ai'rica. These people arc quite uncivilized, altli()up;h ANCIF<:NT fJUANITK QUARRIES. (\o:\ commercial habits have mack; them peaceful and docile. They kiiov.'- as little of the world below Elephantina as they know of their own history. They wonder at the decline of the innocent and icinuncrative slave-trade, anJ still furtively pursue it against all interdictions and remonstrance. The price of an African hand- maid, in an Arabian family, is sixty dollars. Her children niherit iMpially with those of the lawful wife. We waited until sunset, and then, mounting camels, made our way throu,ifh narrow, circuitous, un])avc(l, sandy lanes, crowded on citiicr side by bazaars, coil'ee-houses, iTu^stpies, ('optic chaiiels, and iiHul-houses, with barricaded doors and latticed windows. Kmer"- iii^ upon tlie desert, through the widest city gate ever seen, we (•;une into a Mohammedan cemetery, five or six miles in circuin- tbroncc. It is the only cemetery we have ever seen from which overy cheerful association of Nature is excluded. It has neither tree, shrul), plant, nor flower — neither sod nor soil — but oidy the dry sands of the desert, deposited by winds duriiii,' thousands of years. The f:;ravesare (or mi<::ht be) excavated with the human hand, with- out an im])lenuMit. The excavation c"!isists of removin<^ so much suid .a.; will leave the dead body oi: a hnel with the surface of the pliiin, and the sand is heaped ufxtu it. Kach grave is marked by a small, rough stone, usually without inscription. Some families have more and)itious monuments. Thoy build a tomb above the s;uk1, open at the sides. Interment is made by removing the sand beneath, and restoring it when the remains have been thrust in. Travellers, say that the sirocco often uncovers the graves, rendering tiie air ])estilential. AVc were spared such hideous experiences. Leaving the cemetery behind us, we rose some fifty or sixty feet above a ledge of the desert, and rtood in the ancient granite quar- ries of Assouan. The plain is strewed with massive surface stones, which covered the (piarry, and were rolled down the hill-side by some mechanism of more power than we can now conceive. At a height of five hundred feet above the river-bed, we found tlicj smooth bed of the quarry of red granite from which the walls of the chambers of the Pyramids, and the columns of the Temples of Memphis, Thebes, and Dendera, were taken. From here, also, were 604 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. SI'S , 1^ • • ,9 •■fir** r. Ik f Si a ft If: 3i quarried the sarcopliagi and statues found in every part of Egypt, and all, or nearly all, of the obelisks which grace European capitals, as well as Ileliopolis, Luxor, and Karnak. It is almost enough to make one fancy that the Egyptians were a Titanic race, when standing in this quarry, and contemplating that, three thousand, four thousand, live thousand years ago, they hewed, without the aid of steam or gunpowder^ the solid mountain into shapes of gran- deur and ornament, with scarcely more time, labor, and cost, than are now expended in framing smaller forms of wood! After con- tinuing for four thousand years a scene of active industry, the quar- ries became silent and solitary all at once. We imderstand there is no record of the erection of any obelisk in Egypt subsequent to the period of the Koman conquest. We left our uncomfortable camels, and climbed up the sides of an obelisk, that had been exca- vated and nearly hewn into shape when the quarry was abandoned, and which has remained exactly in the same condition since. It measures seventy feet in length. Except at the apex, detaclied from the nutive rock on three sides, it is completely chiselled, and ready for polishing. The holes in the rock, on either side, can be seen, which received the wedges used in 8})litting olf the external masses. AV^e recalled here an inscription found on the great obelisk at Karnak. It recites that the monument was excavated at these quarries of Assouan, finished, conveyed to Ivaniak, iind erected on its base there, all within the period of two hundred and ten days. What was the intended destination of this obelisk at Assonant Why was it left unfinished \ Probably an invasion demanded that all subjects of the state should rush to its defence. It is always a sorry and a sad sight to contemplate any great work that has been abandoned incomplete. We wonder that the people of the United States can endure the siiirht of the unfinished monument of Wasli- ington at the capital. ]hit it is infinitely more sad to see a ruin, the construction of which was arrested by a blow that not only arrested that work, but arrested forever the stream of national lil'e. It is with thoughts something like these that one looks over the marblo bh)oks which were just being chiselled to repair the Forum of Pompeii, when the city itself was buried in a night, by the ashes P1IIL.E. 605 from Vesuvius. Historians try to show us how such prodigious labor was possible in ancient Egypt. Tliey conjecture that the Pharaohs were despots, .'Jnd that tlie quarries of Assouan were a prison. But these conjectures are unsatisfactory. Despotism and pciial imprisonment have at some time prevailed in nearly every country on earth, but Egypt is the only country that has built pyramids and excavated obelisks. Devotional ati'ection was tlic strongest in the earliest ages. These Egyptian monuments are the expressions of reverence to the gods. There will be no occasion hereafter for mankind to produce such gigantic utterances in stone. Christian faith and reverence can express a higher and purer dcvo . tion to the Creator by the use of types of lead and a printing-press. The savants who accompanied Bonaparte's army into Egypt re- port that there were then two temples on the island of Elephantina —one facing down the Nile, and called the " Temple of the North ; " one looking upward, and called the " Temple of the South." These, together with a nilometer, have been entirely swept away by inun- dations. There is still remaining there a statue of Osiris, with a date inscribed on it three thousand one hundred years ago. *■ Fhlla', May 23(7. — "We left our boat, with the other shipping at Assouan, at dawn this morning, and came, as usual, mounted on donkeys and camels, through the desert, to this place — the upper verge of the cataract. Our way was over rocky hills and through eipjally desolate ravines, whoso only shade is the naked, overhang- ing mountain-sides ; nor is there on the whole way a single green leaf or blade of grass. An Austrian mission has erected a plain and comfortable edifice here, on the bank of the river, eight miles above Assouan, and facing Philse. This is the customary terminus cif the voyage of all travellers on the Nile, as it Is of ours. Wo find here a curious proof that the ancient Egyi)tians regarded a voyage up the Nile as gratifying an achievement as it is esteemed hy us. The granite rocks hero are covered with inscriptions, re- citing their success in making the great voyage. Some were con- tent with simply registering their names. "William Freeman regis- tered his name in tho same modest way. One ambitious tourist 000 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. engraved himself, in intaglio, reverentially worshipping the gods of the cataract ! The same rocks, curiously enough, contain ac- counts inscribed by Egyptians, by generals, princes, and kings, of their successful expeditions against Ethiopia. The cataract of tlio Kile has its parallel in many countries — the volume of a vast river broken, as it descends to a lower level, by green islands and barren rocks. Such are Sault Ste. Marie, the tails of St. Anthony, the llilis of the Mohawk, and many falls on the Upper Hudson and the Pu- I* ' I* 1 11 a V a » ^i H r. \% i -w t. ^ ! 4 i It; '3il tt : iM c 3"* J '4i tomac. But the cataract of the Nile has a grandeur surpassinfr ali these, in the stern setting of the beautiful picture in a framework of impassable deserts. Out of the midst of the dashing torrent rises the beautiful island of Philre. The Avhole island, a quarter of a mile long, and scarcely more than two hundred feet wide, i? pictures(juely crowned with graceful temples and colonnades. The sites of these structures were chosen by artistic eyes. In this re- spect, Phihe stands alone. Every colonnade and every gate-way wis evidently built with a view to excite the traveller's imagination as lie svovshipping tlic gods \f cnouglu contain ac- princes, and kings, of The catr.i-act of tlio volume of a vast river •cen islands and barren f St. Anthony, the lali^ sr Hudson and the Pu- L grandeur surpassing al! picture in a frameworli of the dashing torrent ■hole island, a quarter of hundred feet wide, is cs and colonnades. The tistic eyes. In this re- e and every gate-way wns veller's imagination as he ) G08 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 'i 1: •"■•IT} 1»- ••'•'I ..s- « ft might ai)proaeli tlie sacred island. The firm and lofty bases of the temple seem like a solid wall encircling its entire area. The base, at the same time, serves as a quay for the mooring of the boats of visitors, and affords them chambers to rest in before entering the temple. The architecture of Pliilse is not, like all the ruins we ha^e seen, purely or chiefly Egyptian. The ancient Egyptians only began it. It was completed by the Greeks after Alexander, who were content to improve Egyptian models without destroying them or substituting their own. Ileuce there is a delicacy and grace of execution in the ruins of Philce that is not seen in other Egyptian temples. The ruins give us some interesting modern historical in- formation. Near the close of the fourth century, as every one reads, the Emperor Theodosius, of the Eastern Empire, issued an edict at Constantinople, by which he pi'oscribed and abolished tlie ancient Egyptian religion. Among the inscriptions in the temples, recording the visits of travellers there, are those of priests of that religion who performed here their rites in honor of Isis and O.siris sixty years after the promulgation of the decree. There is a tablet in the propylaeum of the Temple of the East, on which is carefully engraved : " L'an 6 de la republique, le 13 Messidor, une armee Fran^aise, comraandec par Buor aparte, est dcscendue a Alexandrie ; I'arniee ayant mis vingt jours apres, les Mamelukes en fuite aux pyramides, Dessaix, commandant la premiere division les a poursuivi au-dela des cataractes, ou il est arrive le 13 Yentose, de Tan 7." ' How curious that almost the only monument which the French Republic of '1)3 has left is this one, which records a great foreij>u achievement of a hero who defended it only to subvert it ! How prone unsophisticated nature is to exaggerate the marvellous! Mariette Bey quotes a French traveller of the age of Louis XIV. as saying that the thunders of the cataract of the Nile deafen the ' Ta.vNSLATiON.— " On the 13th Messidor of the year of the republic " (July 3,1700), " the French army, coinmaiuled by Bi)napiirte, landed at Alexandria. At the I'yr- amids, twenty days later, the Mamelukes liavinj^ been put to fliglit by the nriuy, De.-s.iix commanding the first division, pursued tliem above the cataract, where he arrived on tlie 13th Ventose of the year 1 " (March 5, 1800). FERPwY ON THE NILE. 609 and lofty bases of tlie itire area. The base, )oring of the boats of Q before entering the like all the ruins we mcient Egyptians only after Alexander, who thout destroying them delicacy and grace of ieen in other Egyptian y modern historical in- ;entury, as every one ;ern Empire, issued an bed and abolished the 'iptions in the tcmplos, hose of priests of tlwt onor of Isis and Osiris ivce. There is a tablet t, on which is carefully une armee Frangaise, Alexandrie ; I'arniee m fiiite aux pyramitles, es a poursuivi au-dela de ran 7." ' nent which the French records a great foreiji,ii to subvert it! How rate the marvellous ! le age of Louis XIV. )f the Nile deafen the inhabitants for miles around. Mr. Seward remembers to have seen on an old English map a picture of Xiiigara Falls, with a note under it saying, "These falls are a quarter of a mile high!" Having made these profound critical reflections, we descend the Grand Quay and go on board a dahaheah, to make our way through the foaming rapids and the roaring eddies and whirlpools to our Croco- dile, which awaits us at Assouan, and at this moment an incident occurs which is worth recording, if for no other reason than that of its instructions in economy. "We see a native man and woman emerge from the magnificent classic colonnade at the water's edge of the island, plunge into the rushing river, and make their way directly across to the Libyan coast. They have taken oflf all their clothing and heaped it in solid parcels on their heads, while they walk securely through the wild and dangerous rapids. This is, in- deed, the customary form of ferriage on the Nile. It has often anmsed us to see a river-boat, which has come up from Cairo freighted with natives, stop, and, without boat or plank, deliver its passengers in the middle of tlie river. The passenger puts his lug- gage on his head, and leaps into the river, saying, philosophically and cheerfully : " If it is my kismet " (fate), " I shall perish ; if not, I shall reach the bank." If we have turned our backs reluctantly upon the Mountains of the Moon and the sources of the Xile, we must console ourselves with the reflection that we have seen regions which neither Alex- ander, nor Julius Ceesar, nor Genghis Khan, nor Tamerlane, nor apostolic prophet, nor Columbus, nor Napoleon, nor Magellan, nor Yasco de Gama, ever explored. f the republic " (July .^ nn t Aloxandria. At tlie V}t- to flis'it by the nriny, Dtvs.iix vact, where ho arrived on the CHAPTER Vlir. '■*■* " ! t I * i X^Sr DAYS IN EGYPT. The Vico-Consul's Harem. — Kcnnch and its Pottery. — The Sugar of Egypt. — Memphis.— Its Ruins. — The Downfall of Idolatcrij. — Again at Cairo. — Conversation with a Pacha. — Alexandria. — Aspect of the City. — Interview with the Khedive. — Sir Ileniy Bulwcr. — Pompey's Pillar. — The Khedive's Yacht. — Concluding Reflections on Lgypt. Thebes, May 24:th. — Wo fastened here at Luxor, this afternoon, Sultan Paclif , the governor, and the United States vice-consul, were on the wharf to welcome us hack. ^Yhile Mr. Seward entertained these former dignified personages on board, the vice-consul con- ducted the ladies to his little harem. His domestic establishment, coarse and plain, is in striking contrast with this loyal representa- tive's pretentious official residence, at which we were so suniptu- ouslj dined on our way up the river. On reaching the door, the ladies ascended, by a very narrow, steep, and not particularly clean flight of stairs, to the house-top ; where, it being after sunset, they sat during their visit, without protection. The furniti're of the room consisted of a bed and two chairs. An African handmaid was in attendance. Presently the wife of the consul, a slender. middle-aged woman, came up the stairs, veiled, and neatly dresr^cd in deep black, with heavy silver bracelets and bangles. She re- ceived our salutation timidly, remained standing, and ])i'e.-entcd her three pretty, olive-skinned children — one boy and two girl.-. The ladies turned to the consul and said, " But yon told us you had but one child?" Tie answered, "I have but one bov; we do not BENI-IIASSAN. 611 count girls." The mother entirely agreed with him, and expressed her mortification, in Arabic, that two of the children should be so perverse as to belong to the inferior sex! This woman has no responsibility except the care of her children. The visit, being one of ceremony, ended with coffee, chibouques, and sherbets, brought by the handmaiden from the consul's I ouse. We retire to rest by the light of the Southern Cross, the last time that soon, if perhaps ever, it shall spread its light for us, though we have many seas yet to navigate, and many lands yet to explore, before we reach our home. Sugar of Egypt.— Menii>liis.— Cairo. — Conversation witli a willi tlie Ivhcdive. — Sir Homy )ncludin<; Reflcctiona on Lgypt, Luxor, this afternoon. States vice-consul, were ill-. Seward entertained the vice-consul con- lomcstic establishment, 1 this loyal reprcsonta- 'h we were so suiiiptn- caching the door, the I not particularly clean )eing after sunset, they The furnitin-e of the An African handmaid the consul, a slender. led, and neatly drosf^cd and bangles. She re- anding, and presented no boy and two girls. ]iit you told us you had it one boy; we d" not Be?ii- Hassan, May 28^^. — We steamed down the river from Thebes on the morning of the 25th, having for the last sound there the sharp report of the vice-consurs musket firing a national salute ; find, for the last sight, the flags of the Unite^^ States, Brazil, and Eiiypt, waving from a staff high above the columns, walls, and obelisks of Karnak and Luxor. We stopped for coal at Kenneh, a lively, commercial Arab town, and the seat of the manufacture of the porous earthen pottery used throughout Egypt for cooling and clarifying the Nile-water. Roads across the Arabian Desert ex- tend this trade by caravans to Persia, and the banks of the Euphra- tes and Tigris. European governments have consulates hero, whicdi are filled by wealthy Arab merchants. The German consul, of the same class, entertained us in a residence so stately that it would not ill become a foreigner, resident in Cairo. We coaled as^ain at Siout, went ashore at Rodah, and visited the immense su- srar refinery there, the private property of the Khedive. Sugar is the principal staple of Upper Egypt, while Lower Egypt produces none. The viceroy is the principal producer and manufacturer for the whole country. The cane is brouglit to Rodah in boats from various plantations, which contain in the aggregate ninety thousand acres. The machinerv is of British nianufacture, and (?qual to the best in Cuba. When we compare the extensive culti- vation on the banks, and the activity of trade on the river, as we approach Cairo, with the sterility and desolation of the banks at the cataract, this return-voyage, down the Nile, seems to us like a 612 EGYPT AXD PALESTINE. s^ ■*.■«■ -s^::: fl V "^ ^i ■'% ( •« ■■„« i .... . .| •<*i e"3i, - SI', r.— -ta; 1 »: * a » ■" 4 n r< 11 » "■ 11 !*-■ .>H 1 l^ r > t^ «'! - iJ..' 4 4 il return tVom a sojourn in the " valley of the shadow of death " to the land of the living. The deserts on either side, with their mountain-crests, recede gradually from the banks ; and the valU-v, largely covered with date-orchards and sugar-cane, wears a green- ness which shows that we have loft the tropics behind us to come again into ^'.e temperate zone. Small as the range of manutacturc and local trade is, the inhabitants arc intelligent and active, in striking contrast to the people of the Upper Nile. Sultan Pacha, with h'b steamer, has kindly acted as convoy to the Crocodile, and, whenever we have stopped, we have shared the honors which a simple and subjugated people show him. At every landing, boats discharge their freights of delicious watermelons, as presents or for taxes in kind, on his deck, and the finest of them soon find their way to ours. Nothing could be more acceptable in this dry, hot climate. Memphis^ Tuesday^ May ZOth. — Our last day on the Nile ! Tlic downward voyage has been made without other accident than an occasional running high and dry on sand-banks, from which \ve were hauled off sometimes by our noisy Arab crew, sometimes by our steady convoy. The Pyramids of Dashur, far distant from the bank, though in full view from the river, then those of Sakkara next seen, beckoned to us to stop and take a survey of ancient Memphis. Our approach to Cairo was made known to us by the grim towering points of Ghizeh. A citizen of Chicago would think it labor lost in visiting this renowned ancient capital. It is so soon done for. As we advance inward from the valley of the Nile toward the desert, we pass some irregular black knolls, which are covered with clumps of date- palms. On the surface of these hillocks we saw, here and there, not bowlders, but blocks of hewn granite, no one stone lying on another. Occasionally the knoll, having been partially cut away for agricultural purposes, reveals a heap of broken bricks. In a sunken ditch, now dry, but which is filled by the Nile when at flood, lies i>rostrate, with face downward, a monolith statue of Ea- meses II., usually identified as the great Sesostris. Its whole MEMPHIS. 618 shadow of death " to Ither side, with their )auks ; and the valley, ,r-cane, wears a green- ics behind us to eonie 3 range of manutacturc jUigent and active, in ■ Nile. Sultan Pacha, to the Crocodile, and, d the honors which a Lt every landing, boats lions, as presents or for f them soon find their iptable in this dry, hot t day on the Nile ! Tlic other accident than an •banks, from which \ve ■ab crew, sometimes by ur, far distant from the hen those of Sakkara :e a survey of ancient ide known to us by the )or lost in visiting this ne for. As we advance 10 desert, we pass some with clumps of datc- c saw, here and there, no one stone lying on ,een partially cut away if broken bricks. In a d by the Nile when at monolith statue of Ea- t Sesostris. Its whole height was sixty feet. The stone is a flinty liiucstone. It was nine in the morning when we arrived off the accei)ted site. The bank is a plain six or seven miles wide, crossed by canals of irri"^- tion in all directions, and large portions uf it are subject to annual iiumdation. The current being very strong, we found neither wharf nor anchorage, nor even a place for mooring. Wc, there- fore, turned about and passed up the river to a convenient cove used tor a ferry. Crossing the plain, we left behind us the river windiii"" between fertile plains ; below us Beni-IIassan ; opposite, on the right bank, a Coptic convent, and an abandoned line of military signal-stations ; the view bounded on the north by Old Cairo and the citadel, here only just visible. Two or three miles before us, on the plain, a modern Egyptian town, with the Arabic name of Myt-Rahyneh, nestling among dry sand-hills ; in the distance the Pyramids of Sakkara, seeming to cluster against the horizon with those of Ghizeh. The etiiclency of the Khedive's government was shown by the promptness with which, in compliance with a dis- patch which Betts Bey sent from Beni-IIassan, twenty or thirty men appeared, with chairs and donkeys, to meet us. We rested at Myt-Ilahyneh long enough to reorganize our train, ti.nd partake of sherbet and coffee under some acacias, which protect the only well in the village, and then resumed our way across the level plain, over cultivated fields, and crossing the canals on bridges for a dis- tance of four miles, when we reached the squalid handet of Sak- kara. It was near sunset when we embarked, leaving behind us for- ever the city of Memphis — Memphis, founded by Menes, the home of the authors of civilization ; the builders of the Pyramids, the kings who knew, and the kings who knew not Joseph ! Memphis, whose sedgy bank was the cradle of Moses, whose council-chambers heard the warnings of the prophet of Israel, and the denunciations of the divine plagues ! Memphis, from whose walls issued tlie chariots and horsemen which were lost in the pursuit of the Israel- ites through the waters of the Red Sea ! As we reflect upon the monuments M-e have seen to-day of the senseless worship of bulls, birds, crocodiles, and hippopotami, the mockery alike of religion 40 (•■ rtu EGYPT AND PALESTINE. nufgm mn ••« at:. >M t '^1| l4.-. • ^ ,« • '4 *^: € i;^. ■«. ■«ifi r . B * '-a » ■"• « « .' »> !i « ji 1 -m U.2 M0 and of knowledge, we w(»ndor less tlum ever that the first and chief instruction which Moses the deliverer conveyed to his ])ooi)U' was, " Thou shalt have no other gods before me." The time had come when the world needed that command. Perhaps the expe- rience of the proneness of mankind to disregard it may be the ex- planation of the severity of the discipline by which it has ])lease(.l the great Lawgiver of the Universe to enforce that command lie has cut off the nations that have refused it : " Thus saith the Lord God ; I will destroy the idols, and I will cause their images to cease out of Noph " (Memphis) ; " and there shall be no more a prince of the land of Egypt : and I will put a fear in the land of Egypt." Cairo, 3fa>/ Slsf. — "We came to the wharf by moonlight, at ten o'clock last night. Carriages were waiting to convey us through the streets of Cairo, of which every mosque was illuminated, and merry crowds of natives were assembled at the fountains and shrines. It was the birthday of Mohammed — the day on which the pilgrims returned from Mecca are publicly received by the Khedive, and honored with religious ceremonies at the mosques. We passed at the base of the citadel the public square, where, a few hours before, the sheik of the Great Mosque, mounted on a heavy charger, had ridden over a long pavement of prostrate dco- tees, without inflicting, as they allege, a fracture, a bruise, or even a pain. At eleven o'clock we were again at our residence in the Kasr-Nudzha after an excursion of nineteen days, during which no danger was experienced, no disappointment incurred, and no want, either of comfort or luxury, unsupplied. Mr. Seward's first desire this morning was an audience of the Khedive, in which he might make his acknowledgments to hi? princely host for this rich experience. But they have politics in Egypt as elsewhere. The Khedive went yesterday morning to Alexandria. Speculation is rife as to the reason of his journey, and as to the probable length of his absence — some saying that he is summoned to Constantinople, where he may be poisoned, and the most hopeful agreeing that he will not return to Cairo for A FREE CONVERSATION. 015 n* tliat the first and mveyetl to liis people me." The time had , Perhaps the expo- ird it may be the ox- which it has pleased 3 that command lie y the idols, and I will Lemphis) ; " and there ypt : and I will put a f by moonlight, at ten to convey us through was illuminated, and at the fountains and cd— the day on wliicb blicly received by the ionics at the mosques, public square, whore, a Mosque, mounted on a nent of prostrate dc-o- cture, a bruise, or even t our residence in the days, during which no incurred, and no want, ras an audience of the cknowledgments to his it they have politics in yesterday morning to reason of his journey, 3— some saying that ho may be poisoned, m\ lot return to Cairo for several ^^oeks. He was attended l)y his iiareni and the Princess Valide, who, gossip says, always makes his cotlbe for him on his journeys, and gives it to him with her own hands, to guard against possible attempts at poisoning, lie has kindly left instructions for receiving Mr. Seward at Alexandria. Jime 4th.— \ very free conversation between a distinguished pacha and Mr. Seward at dinner to-dav disclosed a diseoura<>-in<' i>o- litical situation in Egypt. The pacdia thinks that foreign states ought to discuss directly with the Egyptian (tovernment all ques- tions of mutual interest, iiisteail of treating with the Turkish (iov- ment at Constantinople. Mr. Seward said : " The Egy})tian (iov- cr'Muent must go deeper into the matter of international law than this. At present, the relations of Egypt, as well as of the whole Turkish Empire, to the Christian nations are provisional, somewhat of the nature of those established by an armistice on the battle- ticld. The Mohannnedan states have neglected or rei';jscd to ac- cept the laws of nations as matured by the ('hristian states. The European states consent to remain at peace with the ^lohunmedan states, but only on the condition that the latter snail exd'cise no jurisdiction or authority over the persons or property of subjects of Christian countries. Every foreigner, therefore, residing in Egvpt, whether English, Erench, German, Greek, or American, in- vokes in his own behalf the intervention of his own government, and submits himself only to its judgments when complaint is made against him by the Egyptian Government. Eoreigners pay no taxes, and render no military services ; and yet trade, art, and manu- foctnres, such as you have, seem almost exclusively in tlieir hands. This condition is unsatisfactory to the Khedive and to the states- men of Egypt. I learn this, not only from your own conversation, but from the fact that the Khedive has organized a legislature, and has instituted negotiations with the Western powers for the estab- lishment of a mixed foreign and native judiciary, to have chari^e of questions in which foreigners are concerned. But 'I do not learn that the Ottoman Porte, to which Egypt is a tributary, sym- pathizes at all with the Khedive in his very reasonable aspirations. h\ 616 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. *"«i I* '^ 0* ,9 { r n ^^ The reason probably is, that the Ottoman Porte finds its best se- curity against foreign dangers in its compliance with the will of the dominant European powers. On their part, these powers cannot maintain a policy of protection toward Turkey excei)t by insistiiii^ upon the existing stipulations. It does not become me to speculate here on questions which affect the relations of Egypt to the Turk- ish Empire. I am here the guest of both, but I may be allowed to say that what I think Egyi)t most needs is the opening of the coun- try to Europeans and Christians for cultivation, and a compulsory system of educaticn of the whole mass of children of both sexes, native and foreign, by which, in no very long time, Egypt will raiso a class who will bo capable of carrying on trade, banking, manufac tories, internal improvements, and military instruction, as well n.s of exercising the other occupations which arc now chiefly filled In- foreigners. The systerii of education thus to be established ought to be built up as fast and as far as possible on the principles of the Western nations. Until this is done, I sec little hope for tlio emancipation of Egypt from its double thraldom ; first, to the Otto- man Porte; and, second, through the dependency of the Ottoman Porte, to the Christian nations of Europe. This prospect will seem to you distant, but rivalries between the Eur()])ean states arc inevitable, and I think that you will find some ojie or more of tliciii always willing to favor measures which tend to the advancement of civilization in Egypt, and her admission into the family of inde- pendent nations." Al<\m/idria, June tyth. — The Khedive's consideration contin- ues. Leaving tlic pleasant Kasr-Xudzha, at eight o'clock in the morning, we crossed the Delta in a special train, attended, as on our entrance into Cairo, by I'etts liey and the United States I'on- sul-general. What need is there to say here that just below Iloli- opolis, while yet in the traditional land of (loshen, we crossed the IJamietta branch of the Nile; that the Delta spreads out here to the width of a hundred miles, so that, for the first time since our arrival in Egypt, we lose sight both of the Arabian Desert and of the des- ert of Libya ; that we crossed, 'jwer down, ^he Ilosetta branch of RITK or ALKXANDRIA. 017 i-te finds its best sc- e with tlie will of tlic these powers cannot y excei)t by insist! nj,' come me to speculate ,f Egypt to the Turk- 1 1 may be allowed to ! opening of the eoun- )n, and a compulriury lildren of both sexes, time, Egypt will raise dc, banking, manufai- instruction, as well a.-; I now chietly filled by be established ought 1 the principles of the 30 little hope for tlio lorn ; first, to the Otto- dcncy of the Ottoman . This prospect will lie European states are ic one or more of tlicsu d to the advancem'jiit nto the family of iude- consideration contiii- it eight o'clock in the train, attended, as on the United State.- con- c that just below Ilcli- ioshen, wo crossed the spreads out here to the i time since our arrival Desert and of the des- the llosetta branch of the Ts^ile, and that, as wc approache 1 the Mediterranean, we had a view of the Mahmoud Canal, which carries the inland trade of Alexandria; and that later we traversed the shore of the now shal- low Lake Man-is, thousands of years ago the bed of the Nile? This vast and fertile plain, while it exhibits the usu.il assiduous industry of the fellahs, at the same time shows some approximation toward European customs nnd manners. The site of Alexandria is naturally dry, stern, and sterile, as forbidding as the deserts which form on cither side of the Ui)per Nile. But with the growth of commerce, in the course of two thousand years, this forbidding African coast has assumed a cheer- ful aspect. Irrigation has produced here rich gardens, groves, and orchards. All the eminences, within the range of vision, are sur- mounted by windmills, and the approaches to the city in every direction are adorned with villas, in which Italian taste is pleas- antly combined with the Oriental. On our right, towers the tall, dark shaft of Pompcy's pillar. The Khedive's military staff received Mr. Seward at the station, and attended him to the J/otel (TAnfjleterre, placed at his disposal by direction of the Government. On our way, Mr. Seward re- marked the great improvements which have taken place since he was here in IS.^O, and pointed out the catacondjs of the ancient Egyptians in the high embankment, which have been exposed hy the cutting of streets directly through and over them. Our hotel fronts the great public square, which on either side is lined with palatial residences in the European style. It seems as if we had already entered Europe, and left Egypt behind us. A throng of t'ashionably-drcssed Europeans are promenading, and French and English equipages are frequent in the streets. The Italian opera demands our immediate attendance on the opposite square, and every thing shows us that at last, after ten months' travel among the semi-barbarous nations of the East, wc have at last reached a gay though exotic European city. Jvn/J C)fh. — A political day. Mr. Seward, this morning, had a parting audience of the Khedive in his palace, on the island of Plia- G18 EGYPT ANT) PALESTINE. s? ■r: !• "1 ■Tl 1^ "■^ 1 ift% -w j .-*;«« ■ i». .J I»c ,J •^ ( k. r ^- 1 II ^a * • • If % 'j t :» t m f* i« K Ol *^ ia« c '3 J ros, facing the sea. Ilis highness evidently regards Alexandria as a provincial residence, and gratifies the people with a greater di?- l)lay of state pomp and ceremony than he customarily indulges in at Cairo. The palace-gates were guarded, and its courts graced with battalions of fine troops. The Khedive received Mr. Seward with warm congratulations on his return, and made many kind inquiries about his voyage up the Nile, which, at so late a season, he had regarded with grave a])prehensions. lie hoped that, while impressed by the wonderful antiquities of the country, Mr. Seward would carry away from it a conviction that it is advancing in the path of "Western civilization as fast as under the circumstances could be expected. He desired to know whether any thing remained that he could do to render Mr. Seward's stav at Alexandria aifroc- able. Mr. Seward told him there was nothing, but that he would ask one parting favor, in addition to all the kindnesses he had re- ceived. The Khedive promised to grant it before it was asked. Mr. Seward said, " Betts Bey has been indefatigable in the care and attention which he has bestowed upon us, but liis service to your highness is so diligent and constant that he never finds an oppor- tunity for recreation. I learn from him tliat he has never seen Pal- estine, whither I am going. lie is a Christian, as I am, and a pilgrimage to the Holy Sepulchre, once in his life, would make him no more incapable of ofticial service in a Mohammedan court. Ho has not suggested a desire to accompany me, nor have I a]>pri.-c(l him of my intention to nuike this re(piest, but I shall esteem it ii last and great favor, if you will direct that he may accompany mo to Jerusalem." " (xranted at once," said the Khedive. " Betts Boy deserves it, and ])ilgrimagc to holy places cannot but nuiko U8 nil better nioii. whatever may be our religiouHi belief." Engaging Mr, Seward io advise him of his health and safety in the further progress of his journey, and e.\j)ressing an earnest de- sire to visit him sometime in the United States, the Khedive slinok hands with Mr. Seward, and tlie latter took his leave. Arms wiio jirescntcd as he retired and joined his j)arty at the i)alace-gatcs. Thence Mr. Seward proceeued to ])ay a visit to Lord Dalling, late rOMPEY'S PILLAR. 019 irds Alexandria as A-ith a greater di<- )inarily indulges in , its courts graced L'cived Mr. Seward made many kind at so late a season, e hoped tliat, while ountry, Mr. Seward is advancing in the r the circumstances • any thing remained It Alexandria agroo- r, hut that he would Lindncsscs he had re- betbre it was asked, crab! 3 in the care and t his service to your icver finds an opjior- c luis never seen Pal- tian, as I am, and a lite, would make him tuiimedan court. He nor have I ai)pri>i!!l [it I shall esteem it a may accompany uio Rctts r>cy deserve:^ it, im us all better men, Is health and safety in Lssintr an earnest ilc- Is, the Ivlu'idivc! slmnk L leave. Arms wi ro ly at the ])alace-gate^. "to Lord Dalling, hitc Sir Henry Bulwer, who is now on a visit to Egypt, and, like Mr. Seward, a guest of the Khedive. He has his residence in a villa on the canal, outside of the city-gates. This interview was a very pleasant one. Sir Henry Bulwer was the British minister at "Washington during the administration of President Taylor, when Mr. Seward was first entering upon his senatorial term. A cordial friendship then grew up between them, in consequence of their mutual eftbrts to secure the so-called " Clayton-Bulwer Treaty," which, with a view to transcontinental communication across the Isthmus, stipulated the independence of the Central- American re- publics. The two statesmen compared notes very fully on the attitudes of their respective Governments toward each other dur- i ' POMI'KVV IMI.I.Alt. 620 EGYPT ANT) PALESTINE. c^:s s^- n*. an •t.,»** -. **^ Vi <r''i 1 •• , '-«% C^'li -■ :T 1 IT' t » .) S & 6 i' r. II fe ll Jl ? !»< I' tt ;* ing the late civil war in the United States, and the late Britisli ambassador expressed his satisfaction at the result of the conflict, as Mr. Seward did his hope I'or the firm establishment of the cor- dial friendship between the two nations. Lord Dalliiig seems so confirmed an invalid,, that Mr. Seward asked, after leaving his lordship, which of the two seemed most shattered with age and infirmity. Pompoj's pillar, though at a distance it seems perfect, is gradu- ally succumbing to the ravages of time. Why does not the Britisli Government remove the fallen "Cleopatra's Needle," which Me hcmet Ali presented to it ? London would be none the worse for such an embellishment. If they shrink from the task of removing it, why not restore the great ruler's gift to his successor ? We arc sure tiiat Ismail Pacha would make no delay in raising it on its ancient pedestal in Alexandria, or even restoring it to its earlier place at Ileliopolis. Egyptian obelisks, thirty-three hundred year? old, are certainly too valuable, in modern times, to be buried in the sand. They tell an amusing tale concerning this obelisk here. An ambitious Alexandrian bought the land on which it lies, to build upon. He cannot build without removing t'le obelisk. lie has throe difficulties about removing it : first^ it oclongs to the British Government ; second, it would cost more than the laud is worth to remove it ; third, he has no right to place it anywhere else. They say he walks i:p to look at it every Sunday, and study the problem, which still remaius misolved. Ju77£ 7th. — The American military officers of the Khedive's scr- vice, in the magnificent gold-laced uniform of the Egyptian army, called on Mr. Seward en masse, and it was a great satisfaction to him to find one place, in going round the world, where the Ameri- can agent, political or religious, expresses his entire content with the government of the country he resides in. We have looked up and down the Mahmoud Canal, as well as through the harbor of Alexandria, without finding the famous barnje of Cleopatra. The most ancient vessel we have found is the Ariadne, Captain Marryat's vessel, on which he wrote " Jacob rOIlT SAID. 621 Faithful," and which is lying in the harbor, dismantled, and used as a store-ship. Another historical naval relic in Alexandria Bay is the ship Resolution, in whieh Captain Cook made his last voya£rc. This hulk, of four hundred tons, now black and brown, is used as a coalinp^-shij) by the Peninsular and Oriental steamers. We have just returned iVom a visit to the Khedive's yacht— a soa-priiace, moving with steam-engines and side-wheels ; its bur- den, three thousand tons; its speed, seventeen miles an hour; its armament, eight guns; its naval crew, four hundred and fiftv men : its staircases, of silver; its floors, covered with Persian and Turkish carpets ; its windows and beds, draped with satin brocade ; its im- mense saloons, hung with mirrors, pictures, and chandeliers, the finest that Paris could produce, and fnrnislied with modern, lavish, dazzling '.'•lendor. AVhat would not Plutarch have said to this? With this ship Cleopatra could not only have brought ]\[ark Antony siifoly away from Actium, but she could have won the battle for him, which would have been better, and could have entertained him more sumptuously even than in her fomous barge. Alexandria, founded by the Great Conqueror, whoso name it bears, after his death supplanting Memphis nnder the sway of the i'tolcmics, after its conquest by Julius Cirsar emulating Rome itself, and later becoming the school of Christianity in the East, then eclipsed by Constantinople, and still later sidjjugated by the Mussulman caliphs, broken down by their successors and restored liy Mehemet Ali, still remains a great commercial city. It is the entrepot of European commerce for Egypt and India. We are now to sec it undergo a still further trial. Will it be superseded by Port Said, at the mouth of the Suez Canal ? lond Canal, as well as ding the famous barge e have foinid is the ch he wrote "Jacob PoH Said, June dth. — Leaving Alexandria vesterdav at four o'clock, we resumed our voyage, always in sight of the Egyptian roast. The bright light of Pharos reminded us that it was here that the humane institution of this form of beacon for navigators had its origin, in a structure on the same spot, deemed so remark- able for its majesty and beauty by the ancients, as to be accepted bv them as one of the "seven wonders of the world." C22 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. Sf •4 O:" »M •J* -I ■ ■!< 1 1:1 li, >• «• . 1 iMr 1^ r * • n t JM i :» e :» r •I WN< 5»« •i 1 .51 1 A customary expression of regret tlui<" the Alexandrian Library was lost to the world, led Mr. Seward to say that, perhaps, it is iiut a total loss after all. Nine-tenths of all the books whi(;h are written in tlie world are, more or less, transc'rii)ts of others that have been written before. A threat library is generally only a store-house of material for new books. It would be strange, indeed, if, one way or another, any of the ideas which were recorded in the million volumes of the Alexandrian Library are not now extant in otlier books. So a library lost is like the light of Pharos which was lost — but not so utterly lost that it cannot be replaced. In the course of the night we passed Rosetta, after Alexandria, the chief {)ort of entry of the Delta. A few hours later, roundiiiir easily and quietly into the smooth but capacious artiticial luirbur of Port Said, we threw over an anchor, an experience which seciiied new to us, after our three weeks of tying to stakes on the banks of the Nile. Tlie superintendent ot the Suez Canal, desirous that Mr, Seward should examine the work at this terminus, as he had at the other, kindly ])ut a small steamer at our service, and, cmb.irking on this vessel with Mr. Page, United States consul, we made an excursion often miles through this part of the canal, which flows in a deep' channel, between high embankments faced with artificial stone, and is built through the middle of the shallow salt-lake Meuzaleh. It seemed to us that human patience and energy have never been 60 severely tasked as in raising these firm and solid ondjaid<iiicnt^ upon the oozy bed which had been saturated and soaked with the slimy flood of the Nile, from a period, perhaps, earlier than the beginning of the human race. Port Said seems quite American. The site of the little tcwn. 60 recently recovered from the sea, is plready divided and sub. divided into streets and S(]uares, and tlie universal to|»ic of con- versation is the eligibility of and price of city-lots. Tiierc is a; yet little indication of internal trade, but the repairing of shi|)iiinL', transshipment ot i)assengcrs, and coaling of vessels, aftord proHtabk occupation to a poindation of ten thousand, among whom are found some Germans, .some Italians, but chiefly immigrants from the is E. e Alexandrian Library tluit, perhaps, it is nut )ooks wliicli are written ' others that liave been ly only a store-honsc of ige, indeed, it", one way ecorded in the million 3t now extant in other [■ Pharos which was lust eplaeed. osetta, after Alexandria, iw honrs later, rounding cious artificial hin-bui- of xperiencc which scciued stakes on the banks of :lesirou8 that Mr. Seward , as he had at the other, , and, enib.irkino; on thij d, we made an excursion id, which flows in a deep' 'cd with artiflcial stone. allow salt-lake Menzaleh. energy have never been n and solid endjaidanent^ ated and soaked with tin )erhap.s, earlier than the c site of the little town. Iready divided and suli. universal toi»ic of con- of citydots. There i» a. he repairin*! of shipiiini'. ['vessels, aiVord protitiihl' 1, among whom are founJ inunigrants from the u ORIGIN OF TilE EGYPTIANS. G2r. lands of the Levant. We dined with the consul, and walked through the sandy streets, under a burning sun. Whence came the Egyptian people? llow was it that they erected and nuiintaincd so great and flourishing a state, construct- ing vaster and more enduring monuments than any other portion of the human race, and why after these nmrvellous achievements (lid they entirely cease to have a national existence i These are a;i great mysteries to the dwellers in Egypt now as they are to us. We have already mentioned that an Arab told us that the Tyramids and the Sphinx were the creation of genii in a single night. A Copt, attending us at Dendera, asked us, as he surveyed the ruins, '• Who were the people who raised these wonderful temples and excavated these tombs? Whence did they come, and whither have they gone \ " We are not hiclined to accept the idea that the old Egyptians were like the Copts. The Copts of the pres- ent day are men of dark skin, while all the statuary and paint- ings which so much excite our interest invariably represent and describe the Egyptians as " red men." Certaiidy they were neither negroes, nor Hindoos, nor Europeans— neither blacks nor whites, like the blacks and whites of to-day. Doubtless, in tlie patri;;rclial period, some tribes from the west of Asia, Arabia, jierhaps Meso- potamia and Syria, made their way into the valley of the jS'ile, and instituted society there some centuries before the visit of Joseph and his brethren. Isolated there, and yet exposed to invasion from Libya and Ethiopia, as well as from Arabia, these tribes would naturally consolidate themselves into a nation. Thus consolidated, jiosscssing a soil of unequalled fertility, they perfected and main- tained Egypt as the great state of its time, for a period of several thousand years. During this period they first conquered and then minified tlleir Idood with the African tribes of Etliioi)iii, now Nubia and Libya. Froni this mixture probably descended the Copts, an inferior race during the glory of Egypt, but who nevertheless adhered longer to its religion and arts than nny other part of the population. It is nuich easier to see how the Egyptian nation perished than low it originated. They perfected their work ; tliey produced a 021 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. t -'"It ■ .... I .1 rcligio:i which in all ai^es seems to have been the first need of man- kind, a state which was the second, science the third, and had com- merce, literature, and arts, adequate to their own wants, if tlicv had remained isolated. But, by the time this was done, Assyria, Persia, Syria, including Phoenicia, and especially Greece, had pushed inquiry further, and had reached much higher resulrs. They established religions, states, commerce, and arts, which, nl- though in modern times they have all been found imperfect, were nevertheless more solid and eifectlve than those of the Egyptians. The Egyptian system came into conflict successively with those new and better ones. The work of destruction which the Assyrians and Persians began was not stayed by their Greek and Roman suc- cessors, and the Mohammedan invaders in the seventh and eiglitli centuries, with their policy of conquest and propagandism by the sword, completed the ruin of Egypt by a work of unsparing deso- lation. If there is any one fact in natural science that seems to iis more mysterious than another, it is that on some mountain-top, or in some remote valley far away from and far above the everlasting ocean, we pick up a slate-stone in our path, and, breaking it, we finJ within the distinct fossil imprint of a shell-fish of a species un- known, or perhaps extinct. It is just so with ancient Egypt; it had a civilization wliich seems to have had no prototype, and can have no reproduction. ^- M ••i CHAPTER rx. JERUSALEM. intine Coasting-Steamer.— Th '^rein Fields of Sharon. — Jaffa.— Ramlcb.—I.yddn. •Rural Topulation. — First V ,■; f/ Jcrusaleni. — Mr. Seward's Reception.— Tlii> dtan's Fiimati.— Cliureh of the I- v Scpulelirc— Reli},'ioii3 Intolerance —Mount ilvary.— The Via Dolorosa.- The Loi.quc of Omar.— The Moscine ElAksa. Sultan Calva Jafa^ June 8th. — The e' .vcnth month of our voya<^c ot'circuni- navi^^^ition opens upo: us in Palestine. A Levantine eoastin<:;- steaincr presents us witii another peculiar i)liase of travel. Excei)t our party, there are neither Americans, nor Eufj^lLsh, nor Europeans. All are natives of the towns of Syria, Palestine, the Greek islands, and Asia Minor. They are, in fact, a reproduction ot the hetero- geneous multitude whom Peter addressed at Jerusalem on the day of Pentecost, as far as the classifications of modern geography will allow : " Parthians, and Medes, and Elamites, and the dwellers in Meso- potamia, and in Judea, and Cappadocia, in Pontus, and Asia, Phry- gia, and Pamphylia, in Egypt, and in the parts of Libya about Cy- rcno, and strangers of Rome, Jews and proselytes, Cretes and Ara- bians." After being dazzled almost to blindness by the rellection of a tropical simlight from the glaring sand of the desert, it is gratefully refreshing to look out upon the green fields of Sharon. Mr. Sew- ard, who sojourned here a week under quarantine in 1859, indicated from the deck the convent made forever historical by Bonaparte's c 1"'"% l«>ri m kl; ' i^ .» C3. .lAFFA AND KAMLI'II. C,2T rM-:-m:k UWll'l ■^^ ■i'^■Ji m. 'h V r W.i VH' '^iLm »1S ■tf;. il/«- |!!;| f. t^'ii'ii iilleiretl ])ois(»nin^ of his sick and disabK-d s()ldie;-s to prevent their t'allini; into tlio liands of tlio Turks. He itointiMl out also the house and irrounds whieli are shown to travt'Uers as tlio house of Sinu)n the tanner, and :i rock into which has been inserted a hir<ro riii"-. assorted to have been used for two very dill'erent purposes: the (.lie for c'liainini^ Ainh-oineda, and the other for hohlinir Noah's Ark in its pkice \uitil he was ready to end)ark on his extraordinary iTiiise. Jatla, thouujli not after tlie European taste, is, nevertheless, a hiuidsotne town, covcrini:; a rocky cliff, and overhanuiiii^' the sea. We cast anchor haU' a mile from shore, for there is no harbor, and our eyes were immediately _i>:reeted with a si<i;lit of the "stars and stripes " Hoatinfj; over a beautiful o:recn suburb, two miles outside the walls of Jati'a, and our ears with the intelliirence that it was the " American (-(dony." A boat came ]tromptly olf the shore and put on deck ^[r. Uenjamin Fiidadstein, an attaclh' of the consulate at Jerusalem, Avho delivered t(» IMr. Seward a conn'i-atulatory letter from Mr. Beardsley, the consul there. Mr. Fiidcelstein was accom- panied l)y his own cavass, and also by an aide of the Turkish ijov- crnor of Jafl'a. Although the breakers Avcre running high, we were transferred without danger or inconvenience on board a na- tive surf-boat, and with much skill buoyantly carried over a rolling sea near the shelving beach of the American c(dony. Here the boatmen carried us severally on their shoulders, and our feet were safely planted on the Syrian shore. Detachments of Turkish cav- alry and infantry received IMr. Seward, as a guest of the Turkish Government, with martial nmsic and military honors. Forming an escort, they conducted us, through orange-orchards hedged with cactus, to the centre of the so-called American settlement. Ramlch^ June W>. — Our progress, in ascending to Jerusalem, was in manner very like to that in which we ascended from Peking to the Great Wall of China. It Avas conducted by Ik'tts I'ey, of the oivil service of the Khedive of Egy])t, assisted by Mr. Finkelstein, and their authority was supported by the cavass of the United States consulate at Jerusalem, dressed in the most elaborate and '«i| G28 EGYPT AND PALESTINK. -Ml I * cxtravaj^ant Turkish uniform, armed with a silver staff, like tliat of a drum-major, three cimeters, and i)l^?tol8 innumerable, of various sizes, in belt and saddle-bow. Eaeh beast was attended by u driver and a leader. The governor, with a large mounted escort, which he called a " guard of honor," attended us through the streets, out of the gates, and through the orange groves of the suburbs to the wells (»f Yasur, on the open plain of Sharon. At this place, tJio governor and his troops took their leave, a smaller mounted guard taking its jdacc, and we proceeded to Ramleh. Toward the end of the ride, our guides jiointed out on our loft Lydda, which, although the Greeks tried to christen it Diospolls, has retained its name and identity through all revolutionary chaii<;L's, from the time when " Peter came down also to the saints which dwelt in Lydda, fjrasnmch as Lydda was nigh to Joppa," and "found a certain man named yEneas, which had kejjt his bed ci;,dit years, and was sick of the palsy. And Peter said unto him, yKueas, Jesus Christ nniketh thee whole: arise and make thy bed. And he arose innnediatcly." Arriving at Ramleh at eight o'clock, or just at dark, Mr. Seward was received by the governor of that town, with a guard of honor, and, having designated a Latin convent as the lodging he preferred, was graciously introduced by the governor to the Fraucisean superior of the house. "We were very weary. One of the brothers with much alacrity showed us to clean, comfortable rooms, and spread a generous supper. The superior, a handsome, educated Spaniard, manifestly uninformed of the political occurrences of tlio day, conversed with us at table, and expressed a hope that the luxuries which were prepared for us were satisfactory, but declined to ])articipate, because they are forbidden to him. Such monasteries as this are found dispersed throughout the Holy Land. They were founded at an early date by Christian charities in Europe, to afford shelter and comfort to the pilgrims of the A^est. Deiiii; endowed with lands, and conducted with great frugality, the com- munities are now self-sustaining. There being no good pulHc inns in the country, these monasteries entertain travellers in a simple and comfortable manner, and receive, when the traveller m. JKIU'SALEil. ('j;» Ivcr stiilF, like that of minieniblo, of various s attended by a drivLi- nounted escort, wliuli irougli the streets, out of the suburbs to llie u. At this place, the smaller luounted guard pointed out on o\u' lot't » christen it Diosp.lis, I revolutionary chan«;cs, so to the saints whicii 3 nigh to Joppa," and V had hcpt his bed eight r said unto him, yKucas, id make thy bed. And just at dark, Mr. Soward , with a guard of honor, he lodging he preferred, ■nor to the rranciscau k-y. One of the brutheis comfortable roonit*, and , a handsome, educated llitical occurrences of the Lrcssed a hope that the Isatisfactovy, but declined him. Such monasteries Holy Land. Thoy^vere charities in Europe, to Ins of the N'est. r>eiiig Igrcat frugality, the coin- being no good puhlic ■ntertai.n travellers in a Live, when the travclkr leaves, such gratuity as he pleases to give, although they make no demand. Travellers generally pay very cheerfully to the superior, tor the use of the convent, a sum not less than simihir entertain- ment would cost at a hotel. Jenisalcm, June h^t/i. — We rose with the dawn this inorn::i'-, and, having: received coifee and a blessing from our kind entertai i- crs at the monastery, we walked, with the aid of guides, throiigh the few quiet streets of Ranileh. It seems that it is an achieve- ment of more than five thousand years for the hunmn race to attain a state of society in whicdi those who cultivate the land can (hv(dl in safety and comfort, in rural localities. It is really only in Eiighind and in the United States that this stage of society lias heen reached, and much less perfectly in England than in the United States. In wliatever country we have l)een, we have seen Siditude in the rural districts, the farm-house unknown, tlie proprie- tor residing for security in some neighboring luuulet, viUage, or city, and the laborers clustering around him there. Mr. Seward says he found the case the same in ^lexico, with six millions of In- dians in that country, cultivating the richest soil and enjoying tlie most benign skies in the world, but dwelling in mean, shal)by towns. And, even among the Indian tribes of the Northwest, families who live l)y the chase and by the lisheries shrink from iiviu"" alone. It is strikingly so in Palestine. It seems to have known no peace and no rest, at Iciist since the time of Sidomon. No view is more unique than that of Jerusalem as you ap})roach it from the west. You look not so much at it as into it and over it. Though situated on a mountain-top, it is sm-ronnded by loftier mountains: on your right, the mountains of Judea, on win -h you ?tand ; on your let't, the Atount of Olives; and, far beyond, the mountain-desert, at the foot of which the Jordan makes its hurried way to the Dead Sea. Our first surprise was that so famous a city should be so small. But this diminutiveness is itself a charm. You see iu its entire circuit the lofty wall, with its beautiful parapets. Withhi the wall, clustering, but not crowded, you see, without shade or variation, the white roofs, balustrades lome.^, -^'-"^l n^i:i:uets 41 iuV) ECYPT AND TALESTINE. Ifc, V it! i IK. • ' I f me If I* n Hi- 1 ^ ^1 J of loftv palaces, and majestic; clmrclies and mosques. Thout^h not 08j)ec'ially conversant with the modern history and geography of the city, we liad no difficulty in distinguishing the recently-rencweil and mngniticent dome which protects the Holy Sepulchre. \Vf also recognized, by its situation and its gt)rgoous though tadcd dome, the Mos(pie of Omar, which now crowns Mount Moriali, and stands upon the situ of the ancient Temple of Solomon. If one knew no moriiof the Gospel than what he recalls of childhood's leasons, he could not mistake either the Plain of Eethleheu) or tlio Mount of Olives. Nor would ho mistake the significance of that solitary clump of olive and cypress trees, which, at the foot of the Mount of Olives, overhangs a long, low ravine which divides A[ouiit Zion from the Mount of Olives. That ravine is the "N'ailoy of Jehoshaphat, and that cloister of solemn shade is Gethsemanc. I'or- getting for the moment the devastations of the Turks, the Cru- saders, the Saracens, the liomans, the Greeks, the Persians, the Babylonians, and the Egy[)tians, you accept this little Turkish town as the city which was built and adt>rned by Solomon, and as a j)crfcct embodiment of the devotional idea of our faith, and do not wonder that, completed so long ago, it has been left to stand unchanged, unsliakon, and alone, for the admiration aiul reverence of aget^. Induhnnu: in tins reverie, we were roused, as we des-ended the nov,' gentle and easy road toward the city, by the piei'cing strains of the shrill, exciting, Turkish martial music, which annoinicod that military honors of no (tommon significance awaited ^Ir, Sew- ard's coming. On the last of the m(»untaiu-plains was extended a marquee, over which floated the blood-red banner of the Crescent. The avenue leading to it was _j',uarded by a bittalion of iiil'antrv and a cavalry squadron. I\Ir. Seward alighted her(^, and, thedrooji- iiig animals being dismissed, he was condiu-ted u[) the avenue under a saluto of the troops and the stirring music of the band to the marquee, where the Pacha of Jei'usaleni, attended by the iiuuii eipal and othc; puhlic officers, received him as a distinguished stranger and a guest of the Turkish Empire. Here again was nn entertainment just as profuse as if wc had not partal<en of ridresh- monts on die other side of the mountain an hour before. Never- NE. mosques. Thoui]jh not story nnd geography of ng the recently-renewed 3 Holy Sepulchre. We gorgeous though tadcd crowns Mount Moriali, 'eniple of Solomon. It" he recalls of chlUlhood's ii'm of Bethlehem or tlio the significance of that rt'hich, at the foot of the ine which divides ^fouiit •avino is the Valley of de isGethseniane. I'\»r- of the Turks, the ( ru- rceks, the Persians, the t this little Turkish town Solomon, and nsa perfect I'ailh, and do not wonder eft to stand unchanged, and reverence of ages, 'd, as we des;'ended the V, by the piei'cing strains nusic, which annoiniced ^ic-ance awaited Mr. Sew- it;-plains was extended n banner of the Crescoiif. V a battalion (d' infantry ited here, and, the droop- L'tod up the avenue under lusic of the band to the attended by the nuuii- hini as a distinguished ire. Here again was lui not parta1<en of r(>frcsli- an hour before. Never- 032 EGYI'T AND PALKSTINE. »* •« f Of •*• -J "% Y r'1 1 ^:3 1 € ''1 •* « 'i » t -'4 i < > "- m > r> -.oi 1 * ' ■■ tlieless. Mocha coffco, as prepared by Arab bands, is always nc eeptablo. And now occurred the first secession which our party has undergone in its long and interesting journey. The LkHos could endure no more of receptions or of fatigue. Taking T tfs Bey for their guide, they set out on foot to make their way int) tl.H' city in advance of the procession, which they saw was inevilablc Jerusalem has seen many striking pageants, but certainly, In modern times, none go singular as this reco])ti<)n of a i)rivate Auicri- can citizen with the military pomp and imjierial parade accunlod before only to conquerors and kings. As we descended the hill we passed before the Roman church, monastery, school, ami loii- S'.date, and then, from the noble bridge which spans the ravine, looked up at the fine colonnade of the Jewit^h Asylum lately liiijlt by the Rothschilds, and at last stood on the sacred Mountain di Zion. The Jafi'a Gate is not the widest in the world, nor is ('liri>. tian Street the broadest and best-paved avenue, although it Ic.id,. directly over Mount Zion. Happily, in view of this ceremony, tlio Clovernment had caused the street to be cleared of its custoiiiaiv groups of camels, horses, and donkeys. In a word, the Jerusuloni which was so beautiful seen in the softening light of the setting' sun from the summit of the mount^'iis of Jndea, shrunk to a viii::;ir Turkish town the moment we en' 'ed it. "With the best H])ee(l the ladies could make, the strange ai l wild i>rocession overtook tliciii. obliging them to take shelter in such door-ways or booths as opened to them. Tlie people of Jerusaleu), more accustomed ic seeing sad pilgrim bands and caravans from the desert than oiTuial ]>ageants, wero in the narrow street on this occasion, a lu'tcr(i;.a- neous mass — Turks ami (christians. Scribes and Pharisees, iiu'ii. women, and children, monks and Sisters of (Hiarity, publican.^ iiul sinners. Somehow we Rhall never be able to recall how we made our wav through this motley crowd to a gate by the way-side, on which a mo(h>st sign-board advertised " Mediterranean IFcttel." Our |»;irfv. rcunitetl, was conduct'xl up two Hiuhts of narrow, steep stairs tc the house-top, where we sat down, having in full view, on our kt'. the dome of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre ; on our riglit tln' TiniKlSIl riUMAN. osn linndfl, is always ;>f- sion wbieli our parly journey. The iadios ,ti^i,me. TaUiu*; I'l-tts :il;e their way iut)tl!r saw was inevitahlc sauts, but certainly, \\\ iuuofaFivateAnion- perial parade acc-.^raed we deBCcndcd the hill vgtcry, school, and run- hich ?p^"^ ^^^" Yi\^-\w, i,li Asylum lately Imilt .10 sacred Mountain of the world, nor is Chri:^- •enuo, althouo-h it lead- ;w of this ceremony, the cleared of its custouuu-v n a word, the Jerusalem i„<r lljrht of the setting ndca,shrunktoavul-:ir With the best spcoatlii -.vession overtook tliein. door-ways or booths ;>,^ ,11), more accustonu<1 W u the desert than uJuial his occasion, a hctcro<:c- K-s and Pharisees, nicii. i' Charity, publicans iml 111 how we made our w;n- Ithc wav-side, on wl/u'li ;i u-an Hotel." (>nri.:'.vtv. If narrow, stcop staus to in full view, on our Ictt. I.k'hre; on our vi-M tlie Mosque of Omar ; and, at our feet, the crystal ])0()1 of llezekiah, which is su})plied from the "AVells of Solomon." Here the pacha and his suite, the consul and cavass, and " all others in authority,*' after renewed assurances of kimhiess and hospitality, took their leave, and wc repaired to adjoininj^ chambers, whicli, thouj^h neither spacious nor pretentious, were spotlessly clean, and in every way cdiufortable. To explain this brilliant reception by the authorities of Jcrusa- join. we nuiy us well insert here the Jinmin issued by the Turkish (iovcrnment, announcing Mr. Seward as the national ;?uest, ami instructing all ))ublic ofKcers to extend to him their courtesy and nroloction. The document is bLautifuUy engrossed in Turkish cliaracters, on a great sheet of parchment, surmounted by the Sul- tiui's foo(/M or nionogram. Mv. Ihown, our c/i(t/'(ji' <riilJ'<(hrH at 'onst:'.ntinoplc, made a translation of it for us as I'ollows : >• His Im])erial Majesty, Sultan Abd-id-Aziz Klum, son t)l Sul- tan Mahm(»ud Kh!in,,may his victories !)« perju'tiiated ! "T(t mv noble vizier — my glorious councillor, who administers the atVairs of the ])eople coniided to his care, with <j,reat jiistire and (>,|„ity— who strengthens and consididates the edMice of the empire and i-uhlic weal, with much zeal and ability— who is one of tho t'aitlit'id nntiisters of my Government, and who by liis convictions lia!» merited the favor of the MoBt High, ])03sessor of all things: tlic kUee or governor-general ot" my province of Soria (Syria) the m*. *m ■19 c CHURCH OF mi-: holy sEruLciiuL. <'.i.i L M\m possessor of my noble decoration oi' the •iiaji'';c]i x t'lO tir- . ;iss, IlocluJ Ptu-]i:i, may bis glory bo itici cased! be il know/. ; '• Tiiat tbc boann' of the present royal and sovcr '-d do iiuimt is the Ilonor.ible William 11. Seward, formerly tho .let nui.iii.r of tbc Government of tlie Repnblie of tbe United : itc-.s <.r Xorili America, wbo, witli his companions, is visitin<^, for t c j",r|M»ses o|* travel, my province of Sorii — ami that it is my sovereign will that you, who are tbc bahv of the same, consider bim as my Imiiorcd and distinguished guest. "That yon treat bim with every demonstration of honor atid rospect, and see that, wberev<i- be may be pleased to go, hv be shown bos{)itality. It is my royal pleasure tbat be be everywiiore known as tbe guest of my (lovernmcut, and treateil accoribugly. Let all measures be taken for his comfort and pn^te'tiou, and y.^v- uiit nothing to occm* contrary to the present commands. "This know, and hasten to carry my sovereign will into e<('- cntion. " Written, the ir>th day of tbe Moon of Rojcb the Unifpie. :>i' the year of the IledjcnT, 1-JST" (2'itb September, 1870). Sundat/, June Wih. — Worshi;) at the Churcli of il j Holy Sep- ulchre — the only Sunday that we arc to enjoy in .(erusaleni — cowhi not be neglected. But the hours of worship !a tbc E^t are early. .Vt six o'clock, with such strength as our nigh ic>-t iiad given i.. . \vc repaired there by rough, steep, and win ,.- street;-. A sinnll, (•pen, paved scpiare lies in front of the cIuut: . intn v.hicb v. o (]<•• v'onded by a iliglit of worn stone ..teps. Tbe w \i was thronged with a varied crowd from many eotmtries. riierc were Syrians, (Irecks, Armenians, Cojits, Abyssinians, and Turk-!, as v.-ell as Eng- lish, French, (jrermans, Russians, Americans, and Italians — men of nil nationalities, indeed, cNCcpt Jews. ("}iri>lians from Piethleliem i!i(l Hebron were busy in selling small, cheap relics and amulet* ""'^•ng tbe mass, many of whom seemed very ]> )or, and no Hin.ill ,juition mendicants. How unreasoning is religious intolerance! The Christian nations of Europe have succeeded in exacting 'wSx obtaining from tbe Turkish Government :it Constantinople ihe full o.w EGYPT AND PALESTINE. exercise of religious worship of every form in the Church of the Holy Sepuk'hre. All luitions are invited to it, save only the Jews, whoMi Turks iind Christians unite in excluding,' from even its vesti- bule. Mr. Seward could not believe this until he found that one of the bearers of his chair had to be replaced because he was a Jew. The (freek, Latin, Armenian, and Coptic sects celebrate i)ul)li ■ worship in the church at ditlerent hours of the day. It will not seem strange that we passed the great mass, to go directly to tlic lloly Sepulchre. There is no doubt that the "new tond>" of ,Iu- seph of Arimathea, in which the Saviour reposed for three diivs after his cruciiixion, is somewhere in tins mountain. It is unrea- ■•■s5 1 > »■. i 11()MK OF TIIK cmnif'll or THK IIOI.Y RniMTI CltnE. tionable to i4Uppose, in view of the circumstances which :ittciHK)il the early Church, that it can now bo identified. The pious Cltri.s- tinns of the fourth century, however, thought thoy found it licrc, t: ■'CHAPEL OF THE ANCIEL." 637 1 the Chnrclx of the , save only the Jew?, f ti-oiu even its vesti- he found that one of a\»sc he was a Jew. iccts celebrate publi • the day. It will lu.t to go directly to the J "new tomb" of Jt»- ?posed for three <liiys jimtain. U is unrcu- •uiciinB. istanccs which iittciulo.l ificil. The pious ("hfiv ,r\,t thoy found it liorc, and Christians of every age till this have accepted it. Why should wc not be content to do so, siiue there is no reason to sui)iH)se tliat any other place more authentic can now be fouiul 'i We, therefore, shut out from our minds all distrust. The Holy Sepul- chre is under the centre of the great dome, ur, to speak more ac- curately, the great dome of the church has been erected directly over the sepulchre indicated to the Empress Helena. The Holy Sepulchre is a white-marble sarcophagus. It is not, of course, ^^.o- toiuled or supposed that the holy grave was found in this shape, but, with the decency which religious worship always rerpiires, the marble ease was built over the rock-hewn tond). A small orna- mental structure of marble, with pillars and pilasters, and sur- mounted by a crown-shaped dome and cross, stands over the sep- ulchre, and constitutes a kind of chapel or temple. This diminutive structure is divided into two compartments. The outer chamber is called the " Chapel of the Angel/' it being the pleasure of the devo- tees to believe that on the spot enclosed within it, and at the head of the grave, the angel stood when he said to Mary Magdalene and the other Mary, " Fear not ye : for I know that ye seek Jesus, \vlii(!h was crucified. He is not here : for he is risen, as he said. Couie, see the place where the Lord lay." In the centre of this tiny chapel, raised on a pedestal, is a stone, which is claimed to bo a fragment of the identical one upon which the angel sat. The chapel is capable of receiving only one or two visitors at any one time. At the eastern side is a small door, made low, so as to re(piire the visitor to stoo]> as he enters. Thisharmo- iiizi's with St. John's account : " And as she wept, she stooped tlown, and loohed into the sepulchre." Unhappily, however, for tlui iiidulgenco of self-delusion, the churches have suspended, from the low ceiling in this narrow clunnbcr, fort '-three lam])s of gold and silver, which are kept always burning by day and by night. Their dazzling glare, together with the strong perfume of ispices iuul fratdvincense and attar of roses, is so incongruous with rhe Uiiturnl condition of the sepulchre, that they bewilrkr instead of :iiding the pilgrim in his pious desire to realize th' " place where thn Lord l;iv." As we reached the door, two poor Rjissiai- women 038 EGYPT AND PALKSTLVE. I r* - ■mm * I i, i j ■ i; ft J came out, and this nuidc way lor us. We sto()i)ed and cntei'.'d. The marble sUib, which covers the ll<»ly Sepulchre, was bedewed with tears — probably it is always so, although it is coiitiuuidly jmri- fied with rose-water. A placid-t'aced monk stood near to perform this grateful ollice, and to oiler llowers and other sacred mementos to the pilgrims. Notwithstanding the many provocations to doubt, it mav well be believed that no one ever stands over that broken and worn marble slab unmoved. AVe gave place, in our turn, to devout and meek Armenians. We could now study what reuuiins of the Cburcli of tlie TToly Sepidchre with free and inquiring minds. We entered the cL «ir of the church when the Greek bishop and priests were concluding a solemn mass. We need hardly say ihat services dillering so en- tirely from our form of worship seemed cold, formal, and theatrical. When the services ended, the bishop and his numerous assistant priests M'ilhdrew in solenm procession, leaving the congregation to retire at pleasure. We need not pcrhaj.s raise a question here on this subject. Mysterious dogmas and ecclesiastical forms were effective, perhaps they were necessary, for the conversion of the pagan nations. And they arc not useless in sui>])orting and keeping alive docile and patient faith. But their day has culmi nated ; henceforth, more spiritual teaciiing will be employed, and we shall be called on to try whether the requisite standard of faitli can be maintained under a system of free, unregulated, and unbri- dled religious inquiry for religious truth. It suits us better as trav- ellers to study past ideas, as they are embodied in architecture and in art. This Greek choir is spacious, lofty, and elaborately adorned with painting, statuary, and gilding. Our guides now proposed \« show us, not only the Mount of ('alvary, but the very place of the crucifixion, which is also under the dome of the Holy Seimlclirc. To say sooth, our imaginations required a more ample space for the different jiarts of the nu)st stupendous and awful drama ever enacted. It is not strange, therefore, that our faith in tradition!- gi'ew weaker as we climbed the stee]) flight of eighteen stone steps to reach the summit of Calvarv, under this dome, and at less than a stone's throw from the Holy Sepulchre. CALVAfiY. <;;;!> Calvary, if tliis is that mountain of terror and sadness, is a liglit and cheerful, well-paved chapel, twenty feet s(piare, raised l^'ftecn foot above the churcli floor. Here an attendini,' i)rie>t lifts a cor ner of the marble pavement, and discloses three sockets, drilled in the rock, at a distance of six feet from each other; and all who can may believe what he says, that the central one received the foot of the Saviour's cross, and the other two the crosses of the malefac- tors who were crucified with him. Over this slab is erected an altar ijarnishcd with a profusion of jewelled ornaments and tapestry. All skepticism is expected to be put to llii,^ht when, underneath the ;iltar, the marble veneering is removed and a naked rock is shown, with a large, irregular fissure in its fa'^-e, which, wo are told, was elfectcd at that fearful moment when '' the veil of the temple was rent in twain from the top to the bottom; and the earth did 'juake, :ind the rocks rent; and the graves were o[)ened; and many boilies of the saints which slept arose." The trial of faith steadily increases as we continue the appointed cxi>loration. It has a locality, not merely for each gi-and part of tlic mighty transaction which it commemorates, but even for every incident connected with it, though too minute for memm-y or his- tory. A taltlet at the foot of the Chapel of Calvary records that here "the mother < ^ Jesus sto3d," a witness of liis aii'onv. An- other advices you of the spot where the body lay when taken down from the cross. Another, where it was washed and swathed for interment. Another, a place where tlie three Marys gathered for iinitual condolence. After completing this survey, we descended to the dark cavern underneath the pavement of the church, and at the base of Calvary, in which St. Helena, in the fifth century, dis- covered the three crosses, still in a state of preservation. We returned to our hotel through several streets, which, from tiieir continuity, have acquired the name of the '• Via Dolorosa," lieiug the path the Saviour trod on the wa\ from the palace of Pilate to the place of crucirixion. Tradition has been no less busy here. At the foot of this staircase, the Saviour, sinlung* under the weight of his cross, impressed hie Divine foce upon the handkerchief of St. Veronica, now seen in St. Peter's at Rome. Here in this bal- 040 EGYPT AND PALESTIXK ^ ■ "I ♦, ■ ■''■ • » ' I I cony, built over the street, the rcinorse-stnick governor exhibited Jesus to the niaddened mob, with the meinonible words '" Eece Homo," and this lofty structure, certainly not unworthy to be the residence of a Roman proconsul, was the palace of Pontius Pilate, where the Saviour was arraigned and condemned. Here, a repaired breach in the wall indicates the staircase by wdiich the Saviour ascended to the palace on that day. The staircase itself has been removed to Rome for many centuries, and is there exli'l)ited m the (^^liur.'h of 8t. John Lateran, and is familiarly known to ail travel- lers as the Scala Santa. It is impossible to accej ' the authenticity of the "Via Dolorosa." Constantino])!*', Rome, London, Paris, and every other capital of Europe, have undergone I'ewer sackings, sieges, and burnings, than Jerusalem, It would be difficult to i«lontity any street in any city after the changes and accidcntr- which time has wrought in a thousand years. It is a striking com- mentary upon the whole legend, that the house of Dives, as well as the house of Lazarus, is pointed out in the " Way of Sorrow," with the same coniidence as the Judgment-IIall of Pilate. Yussef Etfendi, with the brother and secretary of the pacha, attended us to the Mosque of Omar. It is only within the last live years that this mosque, scarcely less sacred in tlic eyes of Mussid- manr, than the Church of the Holy Sepulchure is in oiu's, has biHii opened to (Christian travellers. Even now a careful, though some- what disguised sui'veillanre, is practised over them. The moscjuo stands in an area enclosed with a high, paraj)eted wall, overlooking the valley of Jehoshaphat, and confronting the Mount of Olives. This occupies one-sixth of the land < f the entire city. On the east- ern side of this wall is a gate-way, built of marble, called by the Mussulmans the "(-rolden Gate," which they are ibnd of represent- ing as the "gate of the temple called Peautiful," but its modciii architecture does not support that claim. It is only interesting' from the tradition that it was closed with the Roman conquest, and has never been reopened. The so-called Mosqno of Omar is not single. It consists of two distinct mosques, placed at some distance from each other — the one here named Kubbet-es-Suhkrah, or "tlio Dome of the Rock," commonly called the Mosque of Omar, and governor cxhibitL'd I'iiblo words '* Eccc m worthy to ho the of Pontius Tilute, . Here, a repaired which the Saviour use itself has been ;rc cxli'hited .11 the :nown to all travel ep* the authenticity ne, London, Piiris, ;ono fewer sackings, jnld be difticult to nges and accidents It is a striking coin- of Dives, as well as " Way of Sorrow," I of Pilate, •etary of the pacha, within the last five he eyes of Mussid- is in ours, has heiii ireful, though sume- theni. The nioscpio ed wall, overlooking le Mount of Olives. B city. On the east- larble, called by the ■e fond of represeiit- :'ul," but its modern is only interesting Ionian conquest, and iqno of Omar is nut ,ced at some distance es-Suhkrah, or "the osquc of Omar, ;uul u ■J) u (D u flC 14 #, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A k *^- 4<i 1.0 I.I I^i28 |2.5 ■ 50 l"^" MiK I ^ i :^ 1^ 12.0 12.2 m 1.25 M 1.6 ^ 6" — — ■ ► v] v^ % Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 « iP \ ^ V V \ 4 642 EGYPT AND PALEST'NE. cmMt I'll tlie Mosquc-el-Aksa. Though differing entirely from the Chureii of the Holy Sepulchre, tlie Mosque of Omar is not less unique and peculiar in its consecrated antiquities. Twelve hundred years ago, MOSQUR OF OMAR. 1*« on the surrender of the Greek Patriarch, the Caliph Omar de- manded to be shown the site of the Jewish Temple. lie was taken to the sacred rock, he knelt and prayed over it, and he bnilt over it a mosque, wliich, with subsequent repairs, is the present " Dome of tlie Rock," or Mosque of Omar. In architectural design and execu- tion it rivals the finest in Cairo and Constantinople. Antodatij'^,' the conquest of the Mussulmans in India, it has an elaborateness of embellishment, perhaps resulting from the influence of Greek and Roman art, which distinguishes this and the other religious struct- ures of modern Asia from the more severe, simple, and effective style of the mosques of Agra and Delhi. One would say, in compar- ing the two styles, that the Mosque of Omar has borrowed from the superstitions of the "West, while those of India indicate a puritanical reformaiion. It is now sadly out of repair. Its magnificent gilded dome is blackened, and its stained glass windows arc broken ; the MOSQUE-EL-AKSA. 648 ;ly from the Clmrcli s not less unique and 3 hundred years ngo, the Caliph Omar dc- 'emplc. lie was taken it, and he built over it the present " Dome of tnral design and execu- ,ntinople. Antedatirii las an elaborateness of influence of Greek and other religious struct- , simple, and effective would say, in compar- has borrowed from the a indicate a puritanical Its magnificcTit gilded iidowe arc broken ; the exquisite Arabic tracery marred, and the elaborately-inscribed texts from the Koran faded. Like the Holy Sepulchre, it is replete in all parts with relics and memorials held sacred by the Mussulman taith. The sheik of the mosque reverently removed for Mr. Seward the crimson-silk canopy which covers an irregular, flat lime- stone rock, sixty feet wide and five feet high, in the centre of the building, and encircled by a high iron railhig. It is said this is the threshing-floor which King David bought of Araunah, the Jebusite. as a site for an altar of burnt-offerings. Modern writers accept it as the altar of burnt-ofierings in the Tenqde of Solomon, irnder- ueath one side of the rock is a vault, which connects with a well nnder the centre of the rock, now covered with a marble slab. This vaulted cavern is by Christian writers believed to have been the cesspool of the altar of burnt-offerings, but the Mohammedans revere it as the place of prayer of Abraham, David, Solomon, and Jesus Christ. On either a'vJ.e of the door of the vault are small idtars, which the sheik calls the shrines of David and Solomon, but they bear carvings nnmii;takably Greek. On aPtotlier side the sheik showed us an indentation which was made by the foot of Mohammed when he sprang from this rock into heaven, and als(j the imprint of the' hand of the angel who threw the rock back to its rcstiug- ]ilace when it was rising from its bed with the foot of the prophet ! Unfortunately, the prophet's footprint here diflcrs in measurement from the footprints which he left, and which we personally saw, in Eaypt and in India. Wo passed over the neglected cor.rt to the Mosquc-el Aksa. It is said to occupy the jda- j and to retain the form of a Christian church or basilica which the Enqicror Justinian 1-uilt in the sixth Cv':ntury, in honor of the A^irgin, and which was temporarily restored by the Crusaders. A part of it was a.-signed as an encampment for the military order then recently created by Saint-Louis, which from that circumstance took the name of Knights Templars, and which was so active and powerful through many centuries. El-Aksa is indeed a structure built in the customary design of the basilica. Its dimensions are two hundred and seventy-two feet long, by one hundred and eighty-four feet wide. It has seven 644 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. r- « I. c, ii I aisles, supported by forty-five columns, of which thirty-three are marble, and are chiefly of the Corinthian order. But, what inter- ested us more is, a recent excavation under the pavement of this mosque, which proves to be an ancient gate. It has been closed and walled up, while the city has been built around it on the out- side. Tlie massive though broken floor, the solid columns, and the heavy transverse stones which rest upon them, are wrought in a style neither Saracenic nor Greek, biU shaped and ornamented in a manner which we remarked in the Egyptian temples. This newly-discovered gate-way is believed, by the distinguished ex- plorer, Captain Wilson, to have been one of the original entrances to the Temple of Solomon. ISTot only El-Aksa, but the whole area enclosed within the outer walls, now wears the appearance of neglect, dilapidation, and decay. Is this an evidence of the decline of the Mohammedan religion, or only of the increp.sing isolation of Jeru- salem ? We must go farther into the Turkish Empire to decide. Meantime, it is suggestive of much thought that not only the Mayor of Jerusalem, but the obliging sheik of the mosque, plain- tively and earnestly invoked Mr. Seward to use what they thought would be an influence of some weight with the Sultan at Constan- tinople, for the repair of the Mosque of Omar. The various points we have described in the Mosque of Omar are held to fix beyond all dispute the site of the ancient Temple of Solomon. History, tradition, and a pride of the Jews, greater than was ever exhibited by any other nation, made that temple an object of admiration to the whole world. Though its base was Mount Moriah, the hill which bore that name must have been levelled Avhen or before the temple was built. It was easily accessible by a gentle descent from all parts ?f the city, while the high wall built on the outer jircii- pice rendered it impregnable on that side. CHAPTER X. JERUSALEM AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. Bethlehem. — The Grave of Rachel.— The City of Jeru3a1em.— The Motint of Olives.— The Tomb of Zachariah. — The Tomb of Absalom. — An American .!( w.— Beihany.— Pilate's Paiace.— The Greek Church in Palestine.— The Jews of Jonisalora.— Their Wailing-Place. — The Jewislr Sabbath.— Attendance at the Synagogue.— Bishop Gobat. — Departure from Jerusalem. — Jaffa and Beirut. June \Wi. — " Let us now go even unto Bctlileliem and see this thing." Bethlehem is the one place in all the wide world which, by its memories and associations, elevates the soul with emotions un- mixed with sorrow, fear, or terror. The Christian mind, that is not unreasonably exacting, finds in the surroundings of Bethlehem, the " city of David," all the confirmation it needs or expects of the Gospel history — the broad, fertile mountain-plain, easily watered, and which, even now, amid the general desolation of the country, largely retains its verdure, and seems a natural field of the develop- ment of the patriarchal system. " In the way to Ephrath, which is Bethlehem," we rested under the shade of a graceful monument, recently erected by the believing Rothschilds, in full and unques- tioning fdith that it covers the spot where Rachel was buried, and upon which " Jacob set a pillar upon her grave : that is the i)illar of Rachel's grave unto this day." Bethlehem is built on the side of a gorge, on whose declivity run zigzag paths which are the streets of the village. The rocky steep has been cut perpendicularly down, and pierced with caves, which, 42 C4: EGYPT AND PALESTINE. with the addition, where it is practicable, of a second story con- structed of rude masonry, constitute the dwellings, storehouses, workshops, and inns of the village. If indeed " there went out a decree from Ca;sar Augustus that all the world should be taxed,'' and if indeed it was needful that the poor isazarono, Joseph, must go, out of the city of Nazareth into Judea unto the city of David, to be taxed, with Mary his espoused wife," and if " the days were accomplished that she should be delivered," then the incidents of m, ! ^■1 BETnLElIEM. tlie transaction, as they are related by the Evangelists, were not only natural, but inevitable. Bethlehem, neither more then than now, could have contained an inn in which the-o could have been found "room for them.*' The inn, in all countries and down even to our own time, is historically known by its equal provision for the entertainment of man and beast. The stnble and the manger, throughout all Asiatic countries, no less in Palestine thnn in China, arc adjuncts in the entertainment of an inn, quite equal in import- BETHLEHEM. 647 unce to tlie apartments in which tlic traveller of the bettor sort rests, while the plebeian or publican, declining that costly expense, shares the stable and the manger with his faithful and cherished mule, ox, or camel. So it could not have otherwise happened than that, when Mary should have " brought forth her first-born son," she should have " wrapped him in swaddling-clothes, and laid him in a manger ; because there was no room for them in the inn." The inhabitants of Bethlehem are native Christians, who sup- port themselves by the fruits which they sell at Jerusalem, and by the manufacture of cheap tokens, ornaments, and amulets, which pilgrims talce home as mementos of the Holy Land. Mr. Seward remarks a visible improvement in the aspect, not only of Bethle- hem, but of the country about Jerusalem, which has been made since his visit of 1859. Something of this is due to the expendi- ture of the Greek Christians of Russia upon a new and beautiful church outside of the city, but more is due to a small colonv of Germans, who have become proprietors and cultivators here. Jxtne \^th. — "Walk about Zion, and go round about her: tell the towers thereof. Mark ye Avell her bulwarks, consider her palaces; that ye may tell it to the generation following." "We have done so, and. we have found it neither a short nor an easy pro.nenade. The city occupies two ridges of a mountain promontory, with the depression or valley between them. The walls of the modern Turkish city have been so contracted with the decrease of the population, as to exclude large portions of the ancient city. Jerusalem is now divided according to its diflercnt classes of population. The Mohammedans are four thousand, and occupy the northeast quarter, including the whole area of the Mosque of Omar. The Jews are eight thousand, and have the southeast quarter. These two quarters overhang the Valley of Jehoshaphat and the brook Kedron. The Armenians number eighteen hundred, and have the southwest quarter ; and the other Christians, amounting to twenty-two hundred, have the northwest quarter, which overlooks the Valley of Hinnom. We issued from the "city through St. Stephen's gate, which stands some two hundred 048 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. lat St*" as;-** WB-- I'* r — «• »■.:- ., S ■ I tti. <M feet north of the Ilaram, the area of the Mosque of Omar. Ihis gite is identified, by tradition only, with the martyrdom of St. Stephen. Our sure-footed animals carried us safely down the rocky, precipitous road, i hundred feet to the brook Kedrua. Re- freshing ourselves with the limpid water from its i^ebbly bed, v/e climbed the eastern bank which is the base of the Mount of Olives. This entire base is covered north and south, as tar as the eye can reach, with the tombs and slabs of the Jewish dwellers of the Holy City. It has been always sacred to the Jews, and it is the only place where the past and present of that extraordinary people meet. Here is a graceful monolith structure in the form of a temple, with a pyramidal top, hewn in shape without being detached from the native rock. You may have your choice of tradition in regard to it. The modern dwellers in Jerusalem tell vou that it was built in honor of Zachariah, concerning whom the Saviour accused the Pharisees : " That upon you may come all the righteous blood siied upon the earth, from the blood of righteous Abel unto the blood of Zacharias son of Barachias, whom ye slew between the temple and the altar." Historical evidence of an inscription in the fourth cen- tury assigns this tomb to the prophet Josiah, while in the twelfth century it was depcribed as the tomb of King Iluzziah. To whom- soever it may be.ong, it is held in high veneration by the Jews throughout the wr rid, and prayers offered up in it are believed to be always answeied. The tomb of Aosnlom, a monolith cut out of the rock, in the same manner as the tomb just described, with an upper story of masonry, is attractive as well as curious. W3 tried to enter it, but found the main structure half filled up witli h heap of loose stones. On making complaint of this, we found that we were verv un reasonable, for these detached stones are the evidence of the genuineness of the tomb. "Now Absalom in his lifetime had taken and reared upforhi.n- self a pillar, which is in the king's dale : for he said, I have no son to keep my name in remembrance : and he called the pillar after his own name ; and it is called unto this day, Absalom's place." The Jews have been in the habit, as they passed through this burying-ground, of taking up a stone, and pelting with it the menu- AN AMEUICAN JEW. 649 mcnt of the rebellious son of David, and so, in the lapse of cen. turies, the heap has aecuiruiiated which obstructed our entrance. Notwithstanding all this, however, there is a growing distrnst of the authenticity, though no one denies the anticpiity, of the monu- ment. The Jews throughout the world, not merely as i)ilgrims, but in anticipation of death, come here to be buried, by tiie side of the graves of their ancestors. As we sat on thr deck of our steamer, coming from Alexandria to Jaffi\, we remarked a family whom we supposed to be Germans. It consisted of a plainly-dressed man, with a wife who was ill. Mm two children— one of them an infant in its cradle. The sull'erings of the sick woman, and her ell'ort to maintain a cheerful hope, interested us. The husband, seeing thi?, addressed us in English. Mr. Seward asked if he were an English- MOBQUE ON THE MOUNT OF OLIVES. man. He answered that he was an American Jew, that he had come from New Orleans, and was going to Jerusalem. We parted with them on the steamer. The day after we reached the Holy 650 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. MB **• "I •*■• Ann i;a s If..- i i "' **^"* ■ ■ - tuft E3, City we learned that the poor woman had climbed the mountain with her husband and children, and arrived the day after us. She died immediately, and so achieved the design of her pilgrimage. She was buried in this cemetery. She was a Jewess, and, according to the Jewish interpretation of the prophecies, the Jew that dies in Jerusalem will certainly rise in paradise. The Mount of Olives, with the customary proclivity of the faith- ful, has been divided into three : the central and loftiest one is called the Mount of Olives ; the northern one, Mount Scopus ; the southern, the Mount of Evil Counsel. Three paths lead over the Mount of Olives : one, on the north, in the sunken line which marks the junction of Mount Scopus; the central one, directly across the Mount of Olives, at its highest point; and a third, winding at the foot of the slope which separates Olivet from the Mount of Evil Counsel, A rough ride of three miles over the lat- ter brought us at noon quite around the mountain-summit to Beth- any. Little, however, were we disposed to complain ot the hard- ships of the dreary ride, when we remembered that we were on the very same road that David travelled, fleeing from Absalom, " toward the way of the wilderness and wept as he went up." Bethany, on the opposite side of Olivet, overlooks the Dend Sea, and beyond it the long, stupendous range of the mountains of Moab. With a previous instruction, we were able to discern the Yalley of the Jordan, and to detect a silver thread of its waters, lying, far away to the northeast, beyond the desert which covers the eastern slope of the mountains of Judea. Bethany, as it pre- sents i >self in the simple narrative of the Gospels, is a delight and a charm. The friendship which existed between Jesus and Mary and Martha, their implicit trust in him, and his benevolent conde- scension in raising their brother from the dead, come up vividly before one at the very mention of the nam > of the humble village in which they lived. It was from Bethany also, then embowered in olive, palm, sycamore, and fig trees, that the Lord commenced that memorable, triumphal progress across the mountain to Jerusa- lem, in which '' much people, that were come to the feast, when they heard that Jesus was coming to Jerusalem, took branches of liUSSIAN PILUKIMS. C51 palm-trees, and went forth to meet him, an-l cried, Ilosannal IJlerised is the King of Israel that cometh in the name of tho Lord." Tho hospitalities of the (Iroek and Latin monasteries here lu'vo been kindly extended to Mr. Seward by their superiors. Mr. Seward received, to-day, visits from all the forei«m consuls residing at the Holy City. After this, attended by a guard of honor, he returned the visit of the Pacha of Jerusalem, and was surprised to find that, although the Scala Santa was removed so long a»'o to Rome, he found no ditticulty in ascending to the upi)er story, where he was hospitably entertained by the present Turkish governor in the palace which wc have all along been assured was the identical gubernatorial residence of Pontius Pilate. Mr. Seward says that, if the tradition is true, the vacillating Roman governor had a won- derfully line modern house. AVe spent tlie evening " on the house- tops " of the paiace of Bishop Gobat and his family. The Greek Church in Russia has lately manifested a new and extraordinary interest in regard to the Holy Land. The number of pilgrims from that country has become immense. They come down the Black Sea, and through the Levant. The Greeks of Russia have lately built, in a beautiful suburb, an extensive church, with a home or asylum for pilgrims of each sex. These structures are much more costly and elegant than any other Christian estab- lishments built here. The enterprise enjoys the protection, and doubtless the aid, of the Russian Government. It is an indication that Russia adheres, notwithstanding the disaster at Sevastopol, to the cardinal policy of Peter the Great and of the late Emperor Nicholas. Under whatever auspices it may happen, and with whatever political design, it is gratifying to see this renewal of Christian interest in Jerusalem. June 15^/i. — "And the name of the city from that day shaU he^ the Lord is there." Our last day at Jerusalem has been spent, as it ought to have been, among and with the Jews, who were the builders and founders of the city, and who cling the closer to it for its disasters and desolation. We have mentioned that the Jewish 652 EGYPT AND TALESTINE. quarter adjoins, on the southeast, the high wa/l of the Ilaram. This wall is a close one, while the ui)per part, like all the Turkiish walls of the eity, is built of small stune. The base of this portion of the wall, enclosing the Mosque of Omar, and the site of the ancient temple, consists of live tiers of massive, accurately-bevelled blocks. It is impossible to resist the impression at first view, not- withstanding the prophecy, that this is a portion of the wall of the Temple of Solomon, which was hewn in the quarries and set up in its place without the noise of the hammer and the axe. So •SI K k: I 1 B 'a* r to- It' u ^l m m:': !;:i X jews' wailing-plack. at least the Jews believe. For centuries (we do not know how many) the Turkish rulers Lave allowed the oppressed and exiled Jews the privilege of gathering at the foot of this wall one day in every week, and pouring out their lamentations over the fall of their beloved city, and praying for its restoration to the Lord, who promised, in giving its name, that he would " be there." The Jewish sabbath being on Saturday, and beginning at sun- set on Friday, the weekly wail of the Jews under the wall takes place on Friday, and is a preparation for the rest and worship of THE AMERICAN SYNAGOOUE. 053 ftll of the Iliiram. ike all the Turkisli jasc of this portion ud the Bite of the accurately-bevelled ,u at first view, uot- tioii of the wall ot he quarries and set r and the axe. Jso mt'. :^. Ive do not know how I oppressed and exiled this wall one day in [ions over the fall of Ition to the Lord, who I' be there." md beginning at sun- [ under the wall takes [e rest and worship of the day which they are commanded to " keep hc> ' The small rectangular oblong t^rea, without roof or cant.py, serves for the g.ithering of the whole renuiant ot the Jewish nation in Jerusalem. Here, whether it rains or shines, they come together at an early hour, old and young, men, women, and little children— the poor and the rich, in their best costumes, discordant as the diverse na- tions fro!n which they come. They are attended by their ral»l)is, each bringing the carefully-preserved and elal)oratcly-b(»uiul text of the book of the Lamentations of Jeremiah, either in their resjte''- tive languages, or in the original Hebrew. For many hours they pour forth their complaints, reading and reciting the poetic lan- guMgo of the prophet, beating their hands against the wall, and bathing the stones with their kisses and tears. It is no mere for- mal ceremony. Dtiring the several hours while we were s])ectator8 of it, there was not one act of irreverence or indiflerence. Only those who have seen the solemn prayer-meeting of a religious re- vival, held by some evangelical denomination at home, can have a true idea of the solemnity and depth of the profound grief and pious feeling exhibited by this strange assembly on so strange an occa- sion, aMioug.i no ritual in the Catholic, (jreek, or Episcopal Church is conducted with mere solemnity and propriety. Though we supposed our party unobserved, we had scarcely left the place, when a meek, gentle Jew, in a long, plain brown dress, his light, glossy hair falling in ringlets on either side of his face, came to us, and, respectfully accosting Mr. Seward, expressed a desire that he woidd visit the new synagogue, where the sabbath- service was about to open at sunset. Mr. Seward assented. A crowd of " the peculiar people " attended and showed us the way to the new house of prayer, which we are informed was recently built 1)V a rich countrvman of our own whose name we did not learn. It is called the American Synagogue. It is a very lofty edilice, sur- mounted by a circular dome. Just underneath it a circular gallery is devoted exclusively to the w'omen. Aisles run between the rows of columns which support the gallery and dome. On the plain stone pavement, rows of movable, wooden benches -with backs are free to all who come. At the side of the synagogue, opposite the 654 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. g J r m-. »■■;■ 8 IS! •■■51 -. '-i'M door, is an elevated desk on a platform accessible only by movable steps, and resembling more a pulpit than a clianeel. It was adorned wltli red-damask curtains, and behind them a Hebrew in- scription. Directly in the centre of the room, between the door and thi§ platform, is a dais six feet high and ten feet square, sur- rounded by a brass railing, carpeted, and containing cushioned seats. We assume that this dais, high above the heads of the wor- shippers, and on the same elevation with the platform appropriated to prayer, is assigned to the rabbis. We took seats on one of the benches against the '.vail; presently an elderly person, speaking English imperfectly, invited Mr. Seward to change his seat ; he hesitated, but, on being informed by Mr. Finkelstein that the per- son vt^ho gave the invitation was the president of the synagogue, Mr. Seward rose, and the whole party, accompanying him, were conducted up the steps and were comfortably seated on the dais, in the " chief scat in the synagogue." On this dais was a tall, branch- ing, silver candlestick with seven ar.as. The congregation now gathered in, the women filling the gal- lery, and the men, in varied costumes, and wearing hats of all shapes and colors, sitting or standing as they pleased. The light- ing of many silver lamps, judiciously arranged, gave notice that the sixth day's sun had set, and that the holy day had begun. lu- st;! ntly, the worshippers, all standing, and as many as could turning to the wall, began the utterance of prayer, bending backward and forward, repeating the words in a chanting tone, which each read from a book, in a low voice like the reciting of prayers after the clergyman in the Episcopal service. It seemed to us a service without prescribed form or order. When it had continued some time, thinking that Mr. Seward might be impatient to leave, the chief men requested that he would remain a few moments, until a prayer should be olfered for the President of the United States, and another for himself. Now a remarkable rabbi, clad in a long, rich, flowing sacerdotal dress, walked up the aisle ; a table was lifted from the floor to the platform, and, by a steep ladder which was held by two assistant priests, the rabbi ascended the platform. A large folio Hebrew manuscript was laid on the table before him, ^ JAFF^.. 655 sible only by movable a chancel. It was Q(l tlicm a Hebrew in- )ni, between the door 1 ten feet square, sur- contahiing cushioned ) the heads of the wor- I platform appropriated )ok seats on one of the lerly person, speahing o change his seat; he iikelstein that the per- ient of the synagogue, L'ompanying him, were ly seated on the dais, in 5 dais was a tall, branch- ! women filling the gal- nd wearing hats of all ley pleased. The llglit- "•ed, gave notice that the y day had begun. In- s many as could turning jending backward ami tone, which each read ing of prayers after the sccn\cd to us a service it had continued some impatient to leave, the a few moments, until a )f the United States, and ,bbi, clad in a long, rich, isle ; a table was lifted steep ladder which was ended the plattbrni. A n the table bei\>re him, , and he recited with marked intonation, in clear fahetto, a Drayer, in which he was joined by the assistants reading from the same manuscript. We were at first uncertain whether this was a psalm or a prayer, but we remembered that all the Hebrew prayers are exp! sed in a tone which rises abo\e the recitative and approaclies melody, so that a candidate for the priesthood is always re(purcd to have a musical voice. At the close of the reading, the rabbi came to Mr. Seward and informed him that it was a prayer ^or ihe Presi- dent of the United States, and a thanksgiving for the ielivcrance of the Union from its rebellious assailants. Then came a second' it was in Hebrew and intoned, but the rabbi informed us that it was a prayer of gratitude for :Mr. Seward's visit to the Jews at Jerusalem, for his health, for his sale return to his native land, and a long, happy life. The rabbi now descended, and it was evident that the service was at an end. Coming down froni the dais, we were met by a ba7id of musicians playing on drums, fifes, and vio- lins. We questioned whether this music was a part of the service of the synagogue, but our doubt was removed when we ibund it accompanying us to the gate of our hotel. The Jews, in their dis- persion, are understood to be forbidden the use of musical instru- ments in worship. Their chants of jtraise are the traditional songs of Israel, just as the Christians, who have succeeded them prefer, to all other devotional hymns, the Psalms of David. A pleasant dinner ensued with the United States consul and his accomplished wife, where we had the honor oi" meeting the venera- ble P>ishop Gobat and Mrs. Gobat. We infer that the Coptic, Catholic, Greek, and Armenian Churches have given up the design of proselytism here, and now confine their labors to the enlai'ge- ment and improvement of their several convents for the entertain- ment of Christian pilgrims in the Holy Land. On the other hand, the Protestant missionaries from Germany, Great Britain, and the United States, are the living, active preachers and teachers of tlie Gospel in Syria. Jafa, June ISih. — Wo left Jerusalem at that early hour when from the " Dome of the Eock," and the Mosque el-Aksa, and from 656 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. ■u Uts. ^ r- » I.: '^1 ■■--»■« s every minaret in the city, the shrill Moslem call to prayer was re- eounding. The Pacha of Jerusalem, with his suite and guard, joined us at the Jaffii gate, and travels with us to Damascus, giv- ing Mr. Seward his protection, and insisting on his taking prece- dence throughout the journey. But our ways are not Turkish ways, and, as a certainty, the Turkish ways are not our ways ; and, while we rode together, and have entered villages and towns as one party, we separated on the road to eat and sleep. The pacha and his party lunched by the way-side at the foot of the wilderness of John the Baptist ; we took our lunch and siesta by the side of the spring under the shade of a great willow-oak-tree. We rested with the good Franciscan monks at Eamleh ; the pacha and liii, party were guests of the governor of that place. At Ramleh and at Jaffa the Turkish bands and cavalry, with the sheiks, digni- taries, and authorities of the mosques on the way, met, saluted, and joined us in our progress. The gay Turkish cavalry amused and interested us, on our way across the plain of Sharon, by their feats of horsemanship and their strategy of battle, charge and retre.U, and in the exercise of el-djerid. We do not wonder that Napoleon said that, if he could have the Mameluke cavalry with the French army, he could conquer the world. The journey was an easy one, and the mountains of Jude.i seemed much less distant and cheerless than when we were so wearily climbing them on our way to Jerusa- lem. AV"e are passing our last hour here with Mrs. Hay at the vice-consulate, preparatory to our embarkation with the Paclia oi Jerusalem in the Apollo, an Austrian Lloyd's steamer, for Beirut. I i' .' It Beirut, June VMh. — We had the pleasure of a visit from the eminent Dr. Van Dyck and Dr. Bliss, his worthy associate, and we found them not less highly esteemed by the natives here than tlicy deservedly are at home. It was our long-cherished purpose to cross the range of Lebanon to Damascus, and, on the way, to visit Ilaal- bec, the Grecian Ileliopoli^. Mr. Seward Avas expected at Damas- cus, and arrangements had been made for his hospitable reception. But the way is long ; the journey, especially the incidental excur- sion to Baalbec, rough and tedious. The hot season has already TOWER OF DAVID. iill to prayer was re- us suite and guard, us to Damascus, giv- on his taking prece- ays are not Turkish i-e not our ways ; and, tiges and towns as one icep. The pacha and t of the wilderness of siesta by the side of r-oak-trce. We rested ih ; the pacha and his dace. At Kamleh and Ivith the sheiks, digni- 2 way, met, sahitcd, and sh cavah-y amused and f Sharon, by their feats :le, charge and rctre.it, t wonder that Kapoleon -avah-y with the French urney was an easy one, iss distant and cheerless n on our way to Jerusa- with Mrs. Hay at tlie ion with the Pacha of ,'s steamer, for Beirut. lure of a visit from the ]v'orthy associate, and we natives here than they Icrished purpose to cross |i the way, to visit I'aal- Tvvas expected at Damas- lis hospitable reception. Sly the incidental exour- hot season has already 657 commenced, and Mr. Seward's strength seems somewhat impaired by the tatiguing explorations of Palestine. These considerations, together with the temporary indisposition of another member of the party, and the hazard of dividing it, obliged us, though with much reluctance, to give up the journey. Perhaps the impression made upon us by the unhappy tate of the two daughters of Dr. Woolsey, who perished from the exhaustion of the journey from Damascus to Jerusalem, last Avintcr, has had its weight. The ^--ov- craor's dissuasion fr<;m tlie joa-ney decided us. At four o'clock we left our hotel and returned to the Apollo, whose deck afforded us a better view than can be obtained in the town itself of the lofty range of Lebanon, with its whole western declivity bathed in gorgeous light, and its long, castellated snow- clad crest reflecting the rays of an unclouded setting sun. TOWEB OF DAVID, JEKCgAtCM. CHAPTER XL '<% 5^;^ r-- toa «a k * " ■■<*• :^« *».,. ,.| r ■"1 •;3 r ■«B f :i c 'Ji r 'an ■^■m an ^. P#ii J^iJOJ/ PALESTINE TO GREECE. Impressions of Palestine. — The Egyptian Race. — Egyptian Civilization. — Phoenicia and Palestine. — Tha Four Religions. — What we owe to the Jews. — Prcs.'nt State of PaloHtinc. — The Island of Cyprus. — The Ccsn'ola Collection. — Sniyina. — An Excur- sio.i to Ephosus. — The Seven Sleepers. — Mr. Wood's Researches.— The Temple of Diana. — The Isles of Greece. — Tinos. — The City of Syra. — An Illuniiuation. Steamer Apollo, June 20^^. — We arc to see no more of citlicr Palestine or Syria. It is time to set down the result of the impres- sions receiv^ed in them. As we neared the promontory of Sinai, which divides the head of the Tied Sea into the two gulfs of Akaba and Suez, the thought occurred that we were approaching the site of the opening scene of the world's civilization. The' one half of that site is Egypt, the other half Syria, including in ancient times, as now, the two distinct divisions of Palestine and Phoenicia. "We find no satlcfctction in the attempt to trace the nations which in- habited these regions, either to a common origin or to distinct races — at least we can do nothing of that kind here now. It is certain that the ancient Egyptians were neither negroes from the west bank of the Nile nor Arabs from the eastern shore of the Red Sea, for they fought and conquered tribes and nations of both those re- gions. The negroes and Arabs, like our North American Indian races, prefer the desert and its habits to civilization. Neither were the ancient Egyptians Jews. We di.stingnished tho Jews from the Egyptians in the paintings on the tombs, especially at Beni-IIassan. Nor were the ancient Egyptians of any Western type of the Cau- -<^ THE EGYPTIAN RACE. G59 EECE. n Civnization.-rha?nicia ami ' the Jews.— Pi-cs'-iU state of nection.-Smynia.-An Excur- s Researches.- The Temple of ?yra.— An lUumiuulion. see no more of cither the result of tlieimpves- 10 promontory of Sinai, , the two gulfs of Akaba ere approaching the site lation. The' one half of •hiding in ancient times, ine and Phcenicia. We ■e the nations which iu- ,rigin or to distinct races here now. It is certain negroes from the west :rn shore of the Red Sea, fitions of both those re- North American Indian Ivilization. Neither were Inishcd tho Jews from the specially at Bcni-IIassan. cstern type of the Cau- casian race. The probability is, that some tribes of Northwestern Asia found their way to the fertile plains of the Delta, and ex- tended their settlements up the narrow valley of the Nile, conqiier- ing aboriginal peoples in the desert on either bank to the borders of Nubia. Here the adventurers crowded into close contact, and, threatened with invasions from either desert, as well as from the savage African tribes of ancient Ethiopia, orgnnized an indepen- dent and isolated state. Its history shows that Egypt never had a foreign ally, and that it was rarely ambitious of foreign conquest or influence. The system of government was a theocracy, not of one god, but of several or many gods. Its rulers were cither priests or chiefs, whom the priests confessed and reverenced as the sons of gods. It is probable that no part of the Iniman race was ever without a spoken language, but the ancient Egyptians im- proved this possession, which is common to all nations, by adding to it the inventions of architecture, writing, painting, and sculp- ture, inventions by which men not only could communicate their ideas to those present with them, but could record them for the in- struction and guidance of succeeding generations. They acquired a sutRcicnt astronomical science to mark the divisions of the year and the seasons, and they acquired liigh practical skill in the irriga- tion and c;iltivation of the earth. They developed a rude military art, and naturally and easily acquired the little skill in navigation which their inland situation required. An experience of the acci- dents of the Nile taught them how, in the seasons of plenty, to make provision against occasional famine. The Egyptian xiation went no further. Their religion, the first known among men, ac- cepted the intuitive suggestion of the liuman mind, that it cannot altogether perish in death, but must at some time, and somewhere, return to activity again. So the Egyptians contented themscU-es with building temples worthy of the gods by whom they were pro- tected, and monuments to comme:i:orate the greatness of their iieroes, and with recording, in the most effective and enduring manner possible, their national achievements, depositing the rec- ords in those imperishable temples and monuments ; burying their dead with such precautions as would preserve the body in safety, 660 EGYPT /.ND PALESTINE. 2* IB ■*'«ii «;- i "^ r-- art *, r " ^« «. ;■• 1 .■■$ ! *B i;- :i r '^ r> ■vl» Hi 'M :» 8 ■ ?J li' . XM 3 for the return of tlie wandering spirit which had left it, for three thousand years. Men and nations have man^'^ wants for which this unique system of isolated Egyptian civilization made either no provision at all, or no adequate one. The first of those wants, among a maritime tribe or people, is commerce by navigation. Next, mo)*e effective moaas of defence and aggression. It is not possible for the human race anywhere to remain hmg in tl.e belief that they must con- tinue passive subjects of a direct government of the gods. Men can never be content with any one system of religion, or its ex- planations of their origin, their duties, and their destinies. They continually demand and strive for a higher, purer, nobler one. The human mini is never content with any system of education or learning in the arts. It is constantly stilving for a better and more perfect one. Man is a social being, and needs society and laws regulating social intercourse between states, tribes, and na- tions, as much as between individuals. These natural wants of human societv found embodiment and activity among that great people which is first known to us as a civilized nation on the Mediterranean coast, under the name of Phoenicians. It is certain that the Phoenicians were not Egyp- tians. It is equally clear that they were not Jews ; for, from the earliest mention of them by Jewish historians, they were aliens and strangers, and sometimes enemies. But it is certain that, while tliey occasionally derived knowledge and learning from Egypt, they invented and perfected commerce and navigation, laws for society at home, and laws for social intercourse with foreign nations. They extended and diftiv-.ed all their acquired Information, knowl- edge, and arts, to the inhabitants of Asi:i Minor, and of the Greek islands. Phajuicia, therefore, was the cradle of a new civilization, differing and distinct from that of Egypt. This civilization, im- proved by Greece and Rome, is doubtless the basis of our own modern Weatern civilization. Midway between those two great original states, Egypt and Phojnicia, with their very difTirent civil- ization, arose a third state, distinct, different, and antagonistic to both. This state was the Jewish nation, the people of Israel, who, RELIGIOUS SYSTEMS. 661 had left it, for three as a single tribe, in a season of lamine, entered Egypt for bread. After a long struggle they obtained their deliverance, and, efiectinff the conquest of that portion of the Mediterranean coast M'hich lay between Phoenicia on the one hand, and Egypt on the other, founded the state known in ancient times, not less than in our own, as Palestine. While they brought nway from Egypt nrts and knowledge, they also readily adopted many of the iniprovenients and arts of the Phoenicians. Whether by Divine illumination or otherwise, they reached the sublime truth of the unity of God, and, arraying themselves in hostility against the Phoenicians and the Egyptians, who both denied it, and adhered to their polytheistic system, they became a distinct and independent people. They have held ever since to that simple and sublime faith. What, then, does modern civilization owe to the Jewish na- tion ? Not letters, nor architecture, nor painting, nor sculpture, nor philosophy, nor science, nor civil government. All these, modern society has derived from the Phoenicians or the Egyptians, or from both. But modern civilization derives its knowlcdire of the relations of man toward his Maker, and the system of taith, morals, and manners, built upon that knowledge, from the Jewish nation. The religious systems now existing in the world are only four : First, pagan, that of ancient Egypt ; second, Jewish, that of the Hebrews ; third, Christian ; fourth, Mohammedan. Jews, Christians, and Mohammedans, all agree that the Jewish faith is an advance above paganism. All equally agree that Christianity is an advance above paganism.. All equally agree that Mohamme- danism, with all its errors, is an advance above paganism. But the Jewish religion was established by the Jews alone — Christian- ity comes to us as a gift from the Jewish nation — and even Mo- hammedanism is only a perversion of Christianity, derived from the Jews. Thus the world owes these three forms of religion di- rectly or indirectly to the Jewish nation. Now, it is to be noticed that all these three systems of religion are favorable and effective in advancing human progress ; that however nations, which embrace either of these faiths, may decline, yet the progress which tli^y introduce is taken up and continued 43 G62 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. ■* tu 9a k ■ ■ ■-» • . ^ "1 i:«„. 1 •< . 3 1 '.4iB C^ % t,. ■Ah 6 ,>^ »i ' '.AH 1:; Hi' 3;jsi by other nations; whereas the civilization which is bnilt npon a system of pagan faith has been corrupted, and is becoming effete everywhere. Continental Asia needs regeneration, and can obtain it only through the agency of AVestern civilization derived fiv..ii the Jewish nation. Western civilization is living and effective, and, while it is progressing in the West, it is actively regenerating the effete civilisation of the East. Wc have said that we owe neither science, nor government, nor arts, nor arms, to the Jews ; but all considerate men will agree that we have derived poetry from that people — if not the art of poetry itself, at least that part of the art which is most sublime and feoB^iicent in its influences. Moreover, to whom, but to the Jewish nation, are we indebted for the civilization of domestic life and its relations ? Certainly not to Egypt. Ancient Egypt, indeed, occa- sionally had queens, but no women. Neither her monuments, her sculpture, nor her painting, present us with the idea of woman as that idea has developed and culminated in a civilized age. Wher- ever the pagan system prevails, throughout all Asia, woman is unknown as a force or power in society. Nor can we ti*ace the domestic relation in its present form to Greece or Phoenicia, Avliile it was perfectly developed in the Jews as early as the time of our Saviour, Heroic men have their discords in profane history, but it is only in the sacred history of the Jews and of the Christians in Jerusalem that we find Mary, Martha, Esther, Ruth, Naomi, Rachel, and the daugliter of Jephthah. There are two other obliga- tions of modern society to the Jewish nation. While we do not suppose that society has existed in any country without laws, yet it was tlirough the Jewish nation that we have received the deca- logue, paramount in authority to all merely conventional laws, as well as superior in the comprehensiveness of its commands. Again, while all nations have felt the necessity of occasional days of rest and devotion as indispensable to society, it was the Jews who first had the idea of resting on the seventh day and hallowing it. The population of Palestine is estimated at only two hundred thousand. It is scattered over mountains, which seem only min- gled masses of rocks and ruins, with hei>e and there a smiling val- POVERTY OF JERUSALEM. 668 icli is built npon a 1 is becoming effete tion, and can obtain ion derived fi>>-n the r and effective, and, ely regenerating the nor government, nov srate men will agree c— if not the art of 1 is most sublime and Dm, but to the Jewish ■ domestic V.fe audits t Egypt, indeed, occa- r her monuments, her the idea of woman as civilized age. Whcr- t all Asia, woman is 'for can we trace the ce or Phoenicia, while rly as the time of our profane history, but it 1 of the Christians in Isther, Ruth, Naomi, are two other obliga- While we do not y without laws, yet it |ve received the deca- conventional laws, as ts commands. Again, icoasional days of rest as the Jews who first .d hallowing it. at only two hundred which seem only min- Id there a BPiiling val- n. ley or dell, which in vain solicits society and cultivation. Jeru- salem, without trade, without any organized society, without even rich landed proprietors, is a congregation of ecclesiasti^-s and me- chanics or artisans, who subsist by supplying the few wants of the annual crowds of religious pilgrims, generally poor, who come to pay their vows at the sepulchre. Probably no town of an equal population in the Alps or Rocky Mountains is so universally poor as Jerusalem. In looking over the country now, travellers find it difficult to conceive that it once sustained three millions of vi"-or- ous, prosperous, and happy people. Travellers base two different ways of accounting for this : a skeptical class conclude that the an- cient glory and greatness of Palestine were exaggerated ; another class, pious and credulous, infer that the land has been wasted by a scourge, a curse for the obduracy of its ancient people. The truth doubtless is, that Palestine in the day of the Jewish nation was just as it is described by her poets and prophets : its valleys rejoiced in corn and wine ; its mountains were covered with olives, fin-s. pomegranates, and mulberries, and even its rocky clitls with flocks and herds. For two thou:*and years, Palestine has been a theatre of civil war, and of loreign wars instigated by ambition, cupidity, re- ligious propagandism, and persecution. Persians, Greeks, Romans, Christians, Mussulmans, English, French, Turks, and Germans, have all participated in these conflicts. Its ancient people, ex- hausted, dispersed, impoverished, and desolated, have left the ter- races on its mountains to go to waste, after being denuded of their woody covering, while they have fled from and abandoned its thou- sand villages for shelter in the rocks. "We know not what has become of the race which once made Palestine the pride and glory of the world — they have mostly disappeared in these desolating wars. The Roman conquerors were content with subjugating the coun- try ; the Crusaders were neither agriculturists, shepherds, nor colo- nists ; and those who remained wore merely monks and hermits. Mussulman propagandism- employs only the exterminating sword, and the Turk has extended into Palestine the barbarism which the successful armies of the "Prophet" established m every country 6G4 EGYPT AXD PALESTINE. El ic - 8 u< Ik. *■ "1 where they appeared. The Bedouin Arabs followed the Moham- medan conquerors, and there could be no safe or peacefid cultiva- tion in the neighborhood of their tents. While this devastation has in every century become more complete, the European nations h . ! a as constantly moved with a desire for the regeneration ot Jt*ajestine. This desire has manifested itself in two schemes very different, and yet both equally impracticable. The Jews expect the regeneration of Palestine through a provi- dential restoration of themselves to the ancient city. The Chris- tians look for the same happy consummation through the missionary instruction of this discordant and wretched peoi)le. AVe would disturb no benevolent religious hope, but it seems to us that the ways appointed or allowed by Providence do not necessarily re- quire the restoration of Jerusalem or of Palestine to the power and prestige they enjoyed under the reign of Solomon, any more than they require the restoration of Memphis and Egypt, of Athens and Greece, of Home and Italy. If Solomon could come again upon the earth, and see the mocking Mosque of Omar on the site of the glorious temple he built, and see his royal gardens run to bramblos and weeds, and find, instead of the towers and palaces in which he gloried, a city enclosing within a Turkish wall a mere huddle of itifidels — the Egypt which he feared, a solitude — the Ezion-gebc)-, whence he dispatched his ships to Ophir, a heap of sand — and Lebanon covered with mulberries instead of cedars and firs, we think he would concede that there is at last " something new under the sun." Nevertheless, it is only in one sense that there is change from the past. Human nature and the human race are the same. They change places, circumstances, and conditions, but their destiny remains the same, and their progress toward .it is continuous and onward. Empires and nations, as well as individual!*, are mortal, but the human race, for aught we know, is continuous on earth. In modern times, at least, the work of human progress is carried on chiefly by commerce and immigration ; perhaps it was always so. Long before the tall of Jerusalem, " the star of empire " had begun to move westward. It is likely to continue to move in the same direction until it returns to the point in the heavens whence CYPIIUS. Gcr> it took its departure. Kew capitals and now nations have already come into existence, and more will come before Palestine and Jem- salem will be restored. But this is not discouraginfr to any just hopes of the East. A slight improvement is already noticeable in Palestine. Jaffa, Caipha, and Beirut already exhibit some i)leaHing germs of progress planted by the always patient and enteriirislng Germans. The more that new capitals and nations are built up in the Wcrit, the more will the renewing, revivifying effect be felt in the East, and, without waiting for the establirihmcnt of republics and Christianity in India and China, or even in Japan, we may see civilized, enlightened Christian nations come into existence in Palestine, as well as in Syria and in Egypt. Tlie Jewish improvement and Christian missions are not to be rejected or undervalued. They will cooperate in i)roducing these results, though insufficient in themselves to produce them. The Jewish endowments and Christian missions are, after all, only for- eign charities. No nation ever was or can be regenerated by mere charity from abroad. But charity, going hand-in-hand with com- merce and immigration, effects every thing. It has been so in the Sandwich Islands, and in every part of America. Perhaps we need to see Constantinople before we decide upon the important question whether the empire of Turkey is beginning to yield to the renovat- ing influences which reach it from the West. It is certain that thus far in Palestine and Syria, as well as in Egypt, we find Mussul- man bigotry modified, and Oriental prejudices declining. This is an auspicious omen of the gradual improvement of Palestine. "We have seen, not only the railroad, but the ship-canal in Egypt, as well as the turnpike-road and the telegraph in Palestine. Why may we not expect to sec the railroad as well as the telegraph in Palestine ? How can there be telegraphs and railroads anywhere withou'; progress and civilization ? June 21st, of C>/j)7nis. — The island of Cyprus, the Turkish out- post in the Mediterranean, known to us only by the fervent poetic descriptions of the ancients, and by the commercial reports of its fruitfulness in modern times, M'as for us, as we suppose it is for all 060 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. r i ;3 r- t ^■'«j' travellers, a disappointment. Its population, once a million, is now only eighty thousand. Its first capital Paphos, now a mere village on the beach — its later capital, Idalium, sunk into the earth, is now visited only at Larnica, a dull modern Turkish village seaport, au ngly town at the base of a broken range of sand-hills. Small clusters of dote-palms or orchards appear at intervals at the left of the village, while a small strip of verdur j stretches behind the town at the foot of the parched hills. They tell us here that they have had no rain for three years, and the island is dried up. Exaggerated as the description of it may have been by the ancients, it is never- theless an island abounding in the richest and rarest of fruit. Not only its figs, but its raisins and wine, are recognized as familiar articles of commerce throughout the world. The United States consul, General di Cesnola, entertained us during the morning, and we had an opportunity to test the island proverb that " so many days are added to one's allotted term oflife, by every draught of its delicious wine." We did not quaff enough to add much to our longevity, although ''The brown bees of Ilymettus Make their Loney not so sweet." We were especially interested in a rare collection of antiques which General di Cesnola has fortunately made. Purchasing a piece of ground, once a fiirm, which proved to be part of the ancient city of Idalium, and obtaining leave of the Turkish authorities to dig, he has gone down through at least three cemeteries in tiers, one above another, and has unearthed more than fourteen thou- sand articles, from the tombs of successive generations, which flour- ished through a period of probably two thousand years. Each one of these relics has a great value for its rarity, but the aggregate collection has a peculiar and even a more curious one, because it presents works of art and taste, statues, tablets, busts, vases, lamps, coins, and inscriptions, utensils and ornaments of gold, silver, glass, and terra-cotta, in a combination that, like a series of chronological tables, illustrates the history not only of Cyprus, but of civilization itself. SMYIiNA. 007 CO a million, is now now n mere village to the earth, is now I village seaport, an t" sand-hills. Small :crval8 at the loft of hes behind the town here that they have cd up. Exaggerated ancients, it is never- rarest of fruit. Not icognizcd as familiar The United States luring the morning, lid proverb that "so life, by every draught ough to add much to IS fQQV collection of antiques made. Purchasing a be part of the ancient Turkish authorities to ee cemeteries in tiers, e than fourteen tho\i- nerations, which flour- iand years. Each one •ity, but the aggregate 'urious one, because it jts, busts, vases, lamps, ts of gold, silver, glass, series of chronological •rus, but of civilization The lowest stratum is a collection of articles as low and rude as the attempts at carving and sculpture of the North-American In- dians. These were either made by or copied from the ancient Egyptians and Assyrians. Then conies the next stratum, compris- ing the improved works of art of the Pha'nicians, nearer iieiglibors to Cyprus, and historically recogniz»;d as its colonizers. Next come relics of the Persians ; next after them, in the ascendino- series, are those of the Greeks, among which are works of statuary and carving not unworthy of the times of Pericles and Phidias ; then those of the era ol' Alexander ; lastly, those of the period of the Roman emperors. There is a remarkable unity, however, running through the whole of these relies. In every layer of thom were fouiul mani- fold figures of Venus, the guardian goddess of the Cyprians, in every attitude and association, from a plate of copper roughly shapen into a human form to the Goddess of Love rising from the wave in the conch-shell at Paphos, or attended by her son Cupid in her triumphal car, drawn by gentle doves, graceful swans, or active little sparrows. We noticed no Christian relics. Paul and Bar- nabas labored here. The latter was a native of Cyprus, but doubt- less their contemporaries and followers had modes of sepulture dif- ferent from those of the pagans. It is sincerely to be hoped that this valuable collection will be secured by some museum or archceo- logical society in the United States.' Smyrna, June lUh. — Smyrna, the ancient queen of Ionia, which, according to the historical accounts, has slidden down the rocky coast to the level beach, presents a scene of life and activity unusual in the East. The harbor and wharves are filled with light and graceful shipping. We mistook for a mod rn Turkish fortifica- tion the ruins of a Venetian fort on a clifi' which overhangs the city with picturesque effect. Near the summit is the cave-tomb which is consecrated in Christian affections as the tomb of Poly- carp, native bishop and martyr of Sn)yrna. The town, stretching ' Since this was written, the Cesnola collection has been purchased for the Metropoli- tan Museum of Art, and is now (1873) in New Yorli. 668 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. m. ;n« « »- '•^ ( 1 1 1 '•'> J 1 « f :* t, .:i I*- a mile along the curving shore, r.eems nearly embowered in orange- orchards and cypress-groves. On near approach, an ancient part of the town wears the dull aspect of age and neglect, but there is r new quarter which exhibits elegant structures, indicative of com- mercial prosperity and enterprise. This improvement, together with a railroad just constructed, excites some hope that Greece, so long dead, may live again. The government estimate of the popu- lation is one hundred and fifty thousand ; we think it one hundred tJiousand. Here, as in other Turkish ports, the authorities, with the United States consul, came on board to receive Mr. Seward, and gave him on shore a demonstrative welcome. We lose no time in making an excursion by railroad this afternoon to the ruins of Ephesus. Smyrna is situated nearly midway on a promontory which pro- jects into the iEgean. Ephesus is fifty miles southeast, at the head of the bay, and at the mouth of the Meander, while Samos, at the opening of the bay, commands both ports. The country between Smyrna and Ephesus, even under Turkish rule, is highly cultivated with cereals and fruits. At this season it is brightly pink and green with wild oleanders and grain-fields, while it is not without the embellishment of ornamental villas and many pretty villages. Guides, horses, and gi'ooms, were in waiting, in pursuance of telegraphic instructions, at the station. We rode in the rosy light of sunset across the low banks of the Meander, a marsh now, as it was two thousand years ago. The bay affords a magnificent har- bor, with distant views of Samos and Scio. Ephesus stood on a plain broken by hills, high but easy of ascent. The famous Temple of Diana is represented by the an- cients as having been conspicuous in the approach to the city from the sea. Probably all or most of the public edifices stood on the summits of the hills, while the lower grounds, rot less than the hills themselves, were occupied with dwellings and shops. There is no reason to doubt that Ephesus wore a noble as well as a cheerful aspect. Within the entire area of the ancient city there is not now found one human habitation. There are ruins, CAVE OF THE "SEVEN SLEEPERS." GG9 nbowered in orange- acli, an ancient part cfflect, but there is r 5, indicative of com- provement, together hope that Greece, so estimate of the popu- think it one hundred rities, with the United .eward, and gave hiui no time in making an ins of Ephesus. romontory which pro- ; southeast, at the head r, while Samos, at the as, even under Turkish lits. At this season it iders and grain-fields, ornamental villas and iting, in pursuance of s rode in the rosy light ier, a marsh now, as it rds a magnificent har- illls, high but easy of •epresented by the an- ,roach to the city from 3 edifices stood on the ;, not less than the hills d shops. IS wore a noble as well rea of the ancient city tion. There are ruins, but nothing more, nothing else. Entering that area, we found that experimental excavations had been made, whidi had left fra*'- ments of marble columns scattered in all directions. Crossing-, not without some danger, the gaping pits made by these excava- tions, we found, on one of the hill-sides, the cemetery of the Ephc- sians. Tombs, some single alcoves, others vaulted chambers, had been cut in the solid rock. The largest of these chambers was as- serted by our Turkish guide to be the tomb of St. Luke. But our historical researches do not give us any satisfactory account of the manner of the death of that apostle. Descending from the hill, we came into a wild, romantic dell, where an angle of the precipice had been cut away and two large chambers excavated, one of them having a vaulted Grecian roof. We could not conjecture the de- sign of this grotto, overhung with tangled shrubs and trees. It seemed too airy and graceful for a tomb, too inconvenient and som- bre for a dwelling, and too small for a temple. Our guide solved the difficulty with ease. He said it was the identical cave of the " Seven Sleepers." He did not know when the seven sleepers went to sleep or why. Fortunately, our early reading of j-omance supplied us with the pretty legend. Seven noble youths, who had embraced Christianity in the third century at Ephesus, were walled up in this cave, together with a faithful dog. After resting there two centuries, the wall was re- moved — and here the legend divides : One version is, that they showed themselves to the people, and went on their way rejoicing ; the dog as jubilant as the rest. The Mohammedan version is, that, though their bodies were found, their spirits ascended to heaven, and that there they, as well as the good dog, yet live and flourish, in immortal youth ; the latter having for his s )ciety in paradise several other noble brutes, namely, the ram that Abraham sacri- ficed instead of his son Isaac, Baalam's remonstrating ass, the ass which the Saviour rode on his triumphal entry into Jerusalem, and the mare which Mohammed rode in his ascent to paradise. The Greek Christians, apparently not less superstitious than their brethren of Rome, have stu^ 'cd the cave, and converted it into a chapel in honor of one of their modern saints. These man- C70 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. •> -J 8oleums of Ephcsus were remarkable for being less spacious and more tasteful in architecture and ornament than those of Egypt and Palestine. No one of them is finished without the use of the curved line. Passing down and around this hill-cemetery, we confronted, on another eminence, the ruins of a vast and massive circular edifice. The wall is constructed of stones as large and well hewn as those in the wall of the wailing-place at Jerusalem, but heaps of small stones, bricks, and mortar, are mingled with them, which indicate either the frugal age of architecture, or at least the time when the Roman conquerors of Ephesus repaired the structure. Broken marble columns, architraves, and cornices, half covered by rubbish, prove the dignity of this edifice, and archcEologists have decided that it was the stadium of the city — a place used for popular and municipal assemblies. Winding our way around the base of the same eminence, we reached another ruin, far more beautifn' and, at the same time, unmistakable in its design. It is the ruin of an amphitheatre, small indeed, but constructed entirely of fine white marble. The basement-story, subdivided into halls, corridors, and chambers, is otill perfect, and the semicircular rows of scats, rising toward the sides, would be comfortable for an audience even now. All the other parts of the little theatre, including the walls, columns, roof, and cornices, have fallen into the area, but the fragments of each part may easily be distinguished. An architect would find no dif- ficulty in rebuilding the theatre in its original form and propor- tions. But this is not the only place of popular amusement. Sepa- rated from this theatre only by an avenue of well-worn tessellated pavement, we came to the ruin of another amphitheatre four times more spacious than the first, the model the same, the material tlie same, but more exquisitely wrought. The seats must have been sufficient to accommodate thirty thousand spectators. The outer door-ways remain unbroken. On their white-marble jambs, in pure ancient Greek, in letters perfectly legible, as if engraved yes- terday, are the police rules for the conduct of the theatre, and even the names of the dramatis personoe. The vaulted chambers for the EPHESUS. 671 ig less spacious and than those of Egypt ithout the use of the y, we confronted, on 3sive circular edifice, d well hewn as those 1, but heaps of small them, which indicate ist the time when the 5 structure. Broken f covered by rubbish, ologists have decided used for popular and e same eminence, we id, at the same time, of an amphitheatre, 3 white marble. The iors, and chambers, is sats, rising toward the even now. All the walls, columns, roof, the fragments of each ect would find no dif- nal form and propor- ar amusement. Sepa- well-worn tessellated nphitheatre four times lame, the material the ,eats must have been pectators. The outer ite-marble jambs, in le, as if engraved yos- the theatre, and even ulted chambers for the confinement of the wild beasts, with arched passages leading from them into the arena, remain in perfect preservation. Taking our places on the upper tier, and looking down upon the space now covered with the confused mass of broken mar])le columns, walls, and statuary, we said to ourselves. This, if not the adjoining ruin, must be "the theatre into which the people rushed, with one ac- cord," when Paul alarmed Demetrius, the silversmith "which made silver shrines for Diana," together with the workmen of like occupation, by preaching that " they be no gods which are made with hands." And, since we find here the cages of the beasts and the arena, this surely is the place where Paul " fought with beasts at Ephe- 6US." So it was from the beginning, and so it will be to the end. The proudest work of man's hands must perish and disappear from the earth, while no thought of God's can ever die. Though we cannot identify even the grave of one of the thousands to whom Paul preached the unity and spirituality of God, nor can we trace his remains to their final resting-place, yet his utterance of that divine truth already encircles the earth, and, if the soul of man be immortal, must survive the earth itself. Thus far we felt that we were treading on tolerably safe ground in exploring the history of Ephesus. Now, however, on looking off toward the sea, we saw, on the northern promontory, a cir- cular, castellated tower, which certainly is not as old as the Pyra- mids nor as new as Fortress Monroe. Inquiring what it was, we were answered that it was " St. Paul's prison." It is more prob- ably the ruin of a Saracenic (possiblv a Roman) watch-tower. We next passed over an elevated plain designated, perhaps not without reason, as a field of gymnastic exercises similar to the Olympic games. Ephesus, so completely ruined, is now nearly lost sight of by travellers ; but an English gentleman, Mr. Wood, is here conduct- ing researches for the British Museum. He believes he has recently discovered, by unmistakable signs, the site of the temple dedicated to the worship " of the great goddess Diana, and of the image which fell down from Jupiter." Mr. "Wood is said to have care- t '-'I i « >■■*« lii. ! Ma THE ISLES OF GREECE. 073 mftmm ..flfe:"" mm fully covered the columns wliich lie has discovered, a service to his- tory for which he docs not receive the thanks of the guides or the few tourists who penetrate to Ephcsus. AVe left Ephesus under the beams of a crescent moon (though not as the Turks paint it, with Venus between its horns), and reached the hospitable homo of our consul, Mr. Smithers, at midnight. It wis the eve of St. John, and, late as the hour was, the en- tire population was in the streets, which were blazing with bon- fires. We are not surprised at this devout reverence i)aid to his memory, for we recall the fact that the apostolic missionaries, when they first came to Ephesus, found there Jews who practised the rite of baptism, but knew only the baptism of John. Grecian Archipelago, June 2ith. — Pleasant courtesies were ex- changed between Mr. Seward and the Turkish autliorities at Smyrna. We parted here with our excellent fv'end Betts Bey, and reembarked, at four o'clock, on the steamer Apollo. Jime 2oth. — " The isles of Greece " cannot be studied in their present sober and commonplace reality. A poetic atmosphere per- vades them, and they rise before you, not in their present loal dul- ncss and isolation, but in the life and glowing warmth in which they have been sung by Homer and Byron. What a pretty, white village is this of Tinos which we arc pass- ing, Avitli the hills behind it terraced to their summits with orange- orchards and vineyards ! Green little Delos, rising gracefully from the sea as we arc gliding past, tempts us to go asliore and search among its hills for the remains of the Temple of Apollo, so fomous for its sanctity. Syra has modern beauty that gives it a charm, needing nothing from antiquity to make it p^^^vaetive. Little of Syra is ever read or heard of in the West, except that it is a mid- way station of exchange of products between the Greek ports. A town of five thousand dwellings is built on the face of a triple hill, the streets horizontal and parallel, one above another, so that, from the deck of our steamer in the harbor, we look into the door of every house in the city. Belonging to Greece, the island is inhabited ex- clusively by Christians. For the first time since we arrived in Japan, C7'J: EGYPT AND PALESTINE. nine months ago, pagan temples and Moslem mosques have disap- peared, and Christianity confronts neither dissent nor opposition. Mr. Seward was received by the Greek governor and United ■» III m .3 I. s A GBEEK OFFICIAL. States consul, and our party enjoyed a delightful promenade con- cert in the small public square, where it seemed as if all the inhabi- tants had conic cut for evening recreation, news, coffee, and itcs. The Greek costumes of both sexes, more artistic than any in tlic world, imparted a poetic air to the scene. Wo embarked at seven o'clock, the last hour which the regula- tions allow for a stay in port. The steamer lingered unaccountably. As night came on, tires were seen creeping along the rocky terraces of the triple hill. These bonfires increasing for a time, at \-M gave way to a pillar of fire near the summit. There were rockets and balloons, and at length the beautiful Church of St. George, AN ILLUMINATION. G la mosques have disap- nt nor opposition. 3vernor and United 5=A MM k'i wliich cro"wns tlic liigliest and central conical liill, ilaslicd tortli in tidl blaze of red, white, and blue lights. AVc had been detained I'or an illumination in honor of Mr. Seward's visit. He has met here some of the survivors of the emissaries uho visited the United States to secure aid for the Greek Ruvolutiim in 1827. This illumination was a conseqnence of his sympathy with the Greek cause. Comparing notes with these revolutionists, they enjoyed the pleasing reflection that, although their sanguine hopes for the recov'iry of all Greece had not been accomplished, yet that a not inconsiderable part of ancient Greece, main-iand as well as islands, had been restored to independence and Christianity ; and that the mass of the Greek people are enjoying a measure of practical civil and religious liberty unknown since the days of Pericles, and one which could not have been conceived by either Alcibiades or Demosthenes. m i<rhtful promenade oon- lined as if all the hdial)!- , news, coflee, and ico?. rtistic than any in the l,our which the rcgula- 1 lingered unaccountably. along the rocky terraces Ising tor a time, at last ^it. There were rockets Church of St. George, A GBOUP OF mSADB FROM THE CF.BNOLA COLLKCTION. miK fc |.< 'I / / PART VI. EUROPE ■■^"1 fcr •as % ., ejl *»■■,. « m aum "^^H CHAPTER I. ATHENS AXD COXSTANTINOrLE. Athens.— The Piraeus.— The Ilymcttua.— The Ilyssus.— Jlr. Tiiokerman.— Quocn OV^a. —Grecian Ruins compared with those of Egypt and Hindostaii.— Mi.dcni (li'eeeo, the Mexico of Europe.— The Sea of Marniovii.— Taking; Constantinople by Surpiise. —A Coutre-Tcmps.—XWn Well that Ends Well.— The Sultan Ahdul-Azi/.— A Busy Day.— E.xcursions.— Charms of Constantino|)le.— The Old Sera-;lio — Fouith of July. —Robert College.— The Bosporus.— Turkish Women.— The Xi w Palaee.— Untimely Visit.— Kiamil Pacha.- Ai'.Jicnce with the Sultan.— Departure from Constantinople. Athens, June 'i^th. — We have "done" Athens in thirtv-si.x hours, because we have no more liours to do it in. AlthouL'h wo feel somewhat the worse for it, there is no sign thnt Atliens lias suffered. Our keen appetite for antiques and eccentricities of hu- man progress h.as been dulled. It seems to us now that, here in Greece, instead of continuing our progress down the stream of the old civilization of the world, we are beginning to ascend the tide of a new one. "We arrived at six yesterday mcining, at the Pirteus, the port of modern Athens, but no longer walled and fortified as in the days of Pericles. It was not without a feeling of awe, almost of reverence, that we recognized, in the moimtain-chain which borders the plain we are entering, the ancient Ilymettus, and the wliole glorious though brief history of Athenian greatness rushed upon us as we looked upon the more distant range which outlines the Peloponnesus. Deviating from the direct road, we approached the citv through one of those vast cemeteries bv which historians tell us it was entirely surror.nded outside of the ancient walls. Strange to say, t\\v cemetery has a i)leasing rather than a melancholy as- G80 EUROPE. Ill r 1 ■J af CI ». :w| !-^ l\ I ^ pcct. No galling vaults, no revolting mummies, no tombs, no sar- copliagi, arc here. All uxcavati(jna have been iilled up and lev- elled, while the mOiiuments which covered them have been giitl>- ered and carefully ar.'anged. The monuments, in no case colossal, consist of marble statuary, and tablets engraved and inscribed in alto-rilievo. The execution in all cases is exquisite, the design al- ways touching and simple. Modern Athens is a town of fifty thousand inhabitants. Al- though it retains and preserves most interesting and wonderful monuments of the past, it is nevertheless purely Euro])ean, and has put the ancient world of Africa and Asia out of sight. Its streets are of comfortable width, well paved ; its buildings, with few ex- A r.RF;EK WOMAN. ceptions, are modern, but crowded too densely. We took lodgings at the Hotel d'Angleterre, at the foot of the beautiful gardens of HIIIDGE AT ELEUSIS. 681 no tombs, no sar- iillcd up '"^^ ^*^^'" n have been gsitl- in no case colossal, d and inscribed in igite, tbe design ul- id inhabitants. Al- iting and wonderful iy European, and has of sight. Its streets ildingSj with few ex- tho Royal Pahieo. The iiekls round Athens arc brown from a loner (h'ought, but the monotony is rolicvcd by u wide belt of olivc-tret^ ees BKIPGE AT KLErSIS. ■ly. We toolclodgings beautiful gardens of which stretch behind the city, and in the valley quite to the foot of Hymettus. The cloudless atmosphere imparts to the mountains that deep-azure hue which enthusiastic writers call the " violet crown " of Athens. The Ilyssus, lilce most of the classic streams of Europe, is a disappointment to the American traveller. G82 EUROPE. ^ HI •Mft-iK Bt.- *H r 1 W', (IB r It. 5^ II e/i<«<? 28^A. — Mr. Tuc'kcrman, the able and accomplished United States minister, being absent from Greece, had arranged with the ministry in regard to Mr. Seward's reception, and had left the legation in the care of the United States consul, charged with the duty of announcing Mr. Seward's arrival. The consul met us at the Piraeus, and h.is assiduously attended us during our stay in Athens. On our return last night from an excursion to Eleusis, we found a note from the chamberlain appointing eleven o'clock this morning for an audience with Queen Olga in the absence of the king, who is on a visit to Copenhagen. The palace is entirely modern and European. The young queen was gracious ; she is intelligent, pleasing, and beautiful. Speaking English perfectly, she left nothing unsaid which she could have said of her consideration for Mr. Seward, or of appreciation of his visit to Greece. And she expressed herself as having no wish so near her heart as that of seeing the United States — a nation whom her father, the Grand-duke Constantine of Eussia, had taught her to respect and admire. Grecian ruins, seen so soon after our explorations of those of Egypt and Ilindostan, suggest the reflection that in the early age of Egypt human labor and means of subsistence, as well as materials for building, were plentiful and cheap, while the edifices to be con- structed were only temples and tombs. At the same time, the gov- ernment was not merely absolute, but despotic. Art and science had not been taxed to discover the smallest amount of materials or labor with which an enduring structure could be built. Under these circumstances, the Egyptian pyramid-, temples, and tombs, were of great and even gigantic dimensions. The Phoenicians, tiie Jews, and the Greeks, coming later, found the necessity for econ- omy of labor and materials, while the greater independence of the people obliged the governments to practise frugality, and to perfect science adapted to that frugality. The Greeks, therefore, while they gathered their models from Egypt, reduced their designs from the colossal to the practical, and substituted, for massivencss, orna- ment and beauty. Moreover, architecture and the arts of design, in Egypt, were a priestly monopoly, and subject to exact rcgula- THE TEMPLE OF VICTORY. complisbed United arranged with the , and bad left tlie 1, eliarged witli tbe e consul met us at during our stay in xcursion to Eleusis, iting eleven o'clock a in the absence of ^ The young queen beautiful. Spealdng rhicb she could have of appreciation of his as having no wish so .t,tes-a nation whom Russia, bad taught her plorations of those of that in the early age ,ce, as well as materials the edifices to be con- the same time, the gov- otic. Art and science amount of materials or •ould be built. Under .. temples, and tombs The Phcenicians, the the necessity for econ- ,er independence of the Ifrngality, and to pertect treebs, therefore, wlule ,,ccd their designs troni ^ for massivencss, orna- 'and the arts of design, subject to exact rcgula- tion — the people of Egypt had no share in thorn. In Greece, the arts passed over from the government to the people, and became a study, a pride, and a profit, in which all the citizens could share. As it is apparent that Egypt never perfected the Grecian work, so it is equally manifest that Greece could never have produced the Pyramids, Karnak, or the Tombs of the Kings. Each was the proper THE TKMPLE OF VICTORY, ATHENS. work of a distinct stage of human civilization. Absurd as was the mythology of . ncient Greece, it was, nevertheless, a cheerful and hopeful religious system, while that of Egypt was a gloomy and fearful superstition. Egyptiivn architectare and arts produced, and were designed to produce, the impression of terror and awe ; they gave, therefore, no scope for pleasing lines of beauty, for delicate G84 EUROPE. m traces of art, or for tints and hues of coloring. Grecian arcliitcct- ure, on the contrary, was as joyous as the Greek mytholo<xy. How did it happen that the freedom and the power of ancient Greece were so transient ? It was due to the fact that Greece, being subdivided into small states and islands, mutually jealous of each other, proved incapable of maintaining one central national authority adequate to pro- tection against dangers from without or security against revolu- tion within. Greece had a free, intellectual, and enlightened peo- ple. Their philosophers, orators, and statesmen, seem to have been conscious of this, for they studied less the glory and grandeur of the Greeks themselves than the universal advancement of man- kind. For this they have their reward. Whatever the moderns have, either of government, science, art, or literature, all confess that it is traceable to the Greeks. Even Avhen we are extending tlio domain of science, and demanding names for newly-discovered sub- stances, powers, forces, and qualities, we turn unhesitatingly to the full and expansive Greek language for a new technology. IIuw little the ancient Greeks thought that, when we should have ac- quired the power of compelling the lightning to transmit our thoughts, ^c should be obliged to borrow from them the name of the instrument of communication ! How little did they imagine that, when we should acquire the power to comjiel the sun to ^)aint for us, we should resort to them for the name of the newly -invented instrument and art ! Modern Greece is the Mexico of Europe— new, experimental, and unreliable, requiring forbearance, patience, and protection; but, having all these, its condition is hopeful. It has, at least, got rid of Turkish despotism and Mohammedan superstition. Greece will probably become greater, and its present monarchy may bo regarded as what Lafayette proposed the government of Louis Pliilippe should be — a monarchy surrounded with republican insti- tutions, and an introduction to tlio republic itself. Constantinople y Jane 29th. — This morning wc were in the Sea of Marmora, surrounded by beautiful islands, and at eleven o'clock A SINGULAR RECEPTION. 085 Grecian arcliitect- Greek iiiytliology. 3 power of ancient Libdividcd into small ter, proved incapable ty adequate to pro- irity against revolu- ind enlightened peo- in, seem to have been ,ory and grandeur of dvancement of nian- liatever the moderns literature, all confess iwe are extending the newly-discovered sub- 1 unhesitatingly to the cw technology. Ilt>^v a we should have ac- ning to transmit our ,m "them the name of ttle did they imagine [ompel the sun to plaint of the newly-invented ^e— new, experimental, [ence, and protection; jl. It has, at least, got . superstition. Greece lent monarchy may bo government of Louis with repubUcan insti- litself. ag wo were in the Sea L^and at eleven o'clock ^e rounded the base of the Seven Towers and beheld St. Sopliia'a lofty dome, the old Seraglio, the new Imperial Palace, and, crossing the mouth of the Golden Horn, anchored in the Bofoorus under the crowded, towering shore of Pera. We did what no invader could have done in the time of Bclisa- rius, for we took Constantinople by surprise. Although Mr, Sew- ard came as an invited guest of the Sultan, and although tiie United States legation had corresponded with him in India and Egypt about the time of his coming, neither crescent nor stars and stripes from the shore answered the signal which waved from the mast-head of the Wion. What could it mean { We lingered an hour on the deck. A mythical person presented himself, speaking very imperfect English, and informed us that apartments were, to his certain knowledge, provided for us by the Government at the Hotel d'Angletcrre. This information coincided with the letter which Mr. Seward had received when in China from Dlacque Bey, written by direction of the grand-vizier. Weary of the sea, and impatient under a cold shower of the first rain we had experienced since our arrival at Calcutta in March, we availed ourselves of the captain's kindness, and went ashore in his gig. Landing, and clam- bering over heaps of stones, we took shelter from the rain in an open shed which served as a caj'e for the market men who thronged the beach. Two rickety one-horse carriages were all that could he found in which to make our entrance. We secured both. Leaving one of them to the servants, we three passengers crowded ourselves into the other. Wc had scarcely commenced our ascent, when we collided with a timber-cart coming down the same steep, narrow road. Extricating ourselves, we took the sidewalk, and proceeded safelv enough until the overtaxed horse gave out, and we com- pleted our journey on foot in the drizzling rain. We reached the Hotel d'Angleterre unexpected guests. The telegraph had announced that we would come to-morrow. But the keeper of the hotel would <lo his best ; he was sure he was to entertain us on behalf of the Porte, and he would endeavor to do it as well as possible. It soon turned out that the reception which had been arranged for Mr. Seward fell to those whom we bad left G8G EUROPE. behind. The Minister of Foreign Affairs, informed of the United States flag raised on the Wien, dispatched a guard of honor to the wharf. The guard met the servants in their calash, with the hig- gage on carts^ winding their way to the imperial custom-house. The guard divided to the right and left, and, with due solemnity and respect, escorted Jenny Corcll, Arthur Price, and William Freeman, to the entrance of the Hotel d'Angleterre. Half an hour afterward the grand-chamberlain, and the United States charge cTqf aires, John P. Brown, and the United States marshal, Mr. Thompson, arrived, and explanations were duly made. The telegraph from Athens^ announcing that we had sailed, was without date, and was not put on the wire until we were passing the Hel- lespont. The apology oflercd was made the more soothing for us by the statement of the lord-chamberlain that precisely the same mistake occurred on the arrival of the Empress ilugenie last year. The manner of the conire-iemjps was different in the two cases. In that of the empress, the grand-vizier with his war-steamer went out to meet the French imperial frigate on which she was coming. But, unfortunately, the two vessels passed each other unobserved, so that she was already at Constantinople while he was vainly look- ing for her in the Sea of Marmo^'a. " All's well," however, " that ends well ! " The Turkish Gov- ernment had subsequently designated another, and as they thought a finer hotel. But, Mr. Seward being content with the Hotel d'Angletene, esi)ecially after learning that our host was the " Mvs- seri " of Kinglake's " Eothen," we remain here. The highest effect of Constantinople is produced by its tout en- semUe. It has many different and noble aspects from various stand- points, but in every case the whole is seen at once, and it is this whole that constitutes the marvellous beauty of the city. Jane ?y(Hh, — Why is it that the strongest curiosity of traveller.':, even of republican travellers more than others, is to see princes^ Whatever the rearon may be, this is not only a secret of the art of history, but also of the dramatic art. Hamlet and Lear and Richard are all the more interesting for being princes. SEEING THE SULTAN. OS- •mcd of the United ird of honor to the .lash, with the hig- eriul ca&tom-hoype. with due solemnity Price, and William igleterre. Half an the United States ited States marshal, :e duly made. The d sailed, was without ire passing the Ilel- nore soothing for us tt precisely the same ss i:ugenie last year. in the two cases. lu lis war-steamer wc.it hich she was comiug. ch other unobserved, le he was vaiuly lool<- " The Turkish Gov- 1-, and as they thought tent with the Hotel Ir host was the " My>- •e. mduced by its tout en- [ts, from various stand- it once, and it is this I of the city. Icuriosity of travellers, ]crs, is to sec princes J a secret of the art of , and Lear and Richard Although we had no reason to suppose that royalty here, more than elsewhere, would couceal its visnge from us, yet an opportuuity to see the Sultan Abdul-Aziz in a ]>agennt to-day, and perliajis on no other day, was not, at least in the judgment of the younger portion of our party, to be lost. Successor of the caliphs, the Sultan is the spiritual us well as temporal head of Islam. In this character he goes in public procession froui his palace at twelve o'clock every Friday, either on horseback or in a barge, to oli'er prayers for the faithful in one of the principal mosques. This cus- tom is one of very ancient standing, and is mentioned by travellers among the Turks as early as the tifteenth century, though it is \)voh- ably even much older than that. It atlbrds an opportunity of see- ino" the Sultan of which nearly all strangers avail themselves. We found two imperial carriages awaitiug us at the door of our hotel, and in them, accompanied by Mr. and Mrs. Brown, we were driven into the street before the gate of the imperial residence. Our party ALIIANUN COSTl'MK. was not recognized among the many curious strangers whose car- riages thronged the way, to witness the pageant, and we were nearly an hour in finding a suitable stand. The ])alace clock had 088 EUROPE. Bft't* r 1 C. '1 i \ m H been set Lack, and, an hour and a half after lii^h noon struck the equivalent of twelve in Turkish time, Abdul-Aziz it-sued from the jijatc, dressed in the magniticent costume which is equally the uni- form of the civil and military service of Turkey, lie was mounted on a noble white Arabian steed, caparisoned in gold and velvet, A squadron oi' cavalry, Avith a sonorous flourish of trumpets, opened the way, and another covered the rear. His majesty was attended by all the ministers of the Porte on horseback, and surrounded by a guard of Albanian officers on foot. These wore jackets, caps, and gaiters, of maroon-velvet and gold, and full, spotless white skirts reaching the knee — said to be the most exquisite costume in tho M-orld. Their shiniug, silver cimeters and jiistols are worn in a broad sash. The Sultan is a stout, well-formed man, forty-seven years old, with a pleasing and amiable though not impressive coun- tenance. His hair is slightly gray, and he is said to dislike the national fez, Avhicli ho wears very small. He rides remarkably well, like a soldier accustomed to the saddle. Ilis bland smile wheu passing our carriages, whicli indeed he might have known by the imperial livery to be his own, indicated to j\[r. Brown that he had the honor of being personally recognized, although he failed In the attempt to flatter Mr. Seward with the belief that he shared in that honor. Doing assured that the j^resence of Christians at the official ser- vices of the rosquc would be popularly regarded as intrusive by the Moslems, it only remained for us to leave the ground as soon as the imperial pugeant had passed. We observed that not only the ministers, but the military officers, and even our excellent friend Mr. Drown, betrayed sentiments of awe and reverence during the progress ; while, on the otlier hand, the people " of the baser sort," Turks as they are, manifested neither sympathy with the proces- sion, nor homage for the sovereign, but were as free and indift'ercnt in their demeanor as a crowd of spectators at a military parade in the United States. Juhj \st. — Mr. Seward has had a busy day. He has exchanged visits Avith Server Pacha, Minister of Foreign ATairs, and acting CONSTANTINOPLE. <i8i) liirh noon struck the f\ziz issued from the h is equally the uni- y. lie was mounted in gold and velvet. 1 of trumpets, opened majesty was attended k, and surrounded by ^orc jackets, caps, and spotless white skirts nisite costume in tlio ]Mstols are worn in a med man, forty-seven li not impressive coun- is said to dislike the rides remarkably well, [lis bland smile when lit have known by the Sir. Brown that he had ;houp;h he failed in the f that he shared in that Itians at the otficial ser- •ded as intrusive by the the ground as soon as >rved that not only the !n our excellent friend [l reverence during the ,le " of the baser sort," Ipathy with the proces- as free and indiftcrcnt |at a military parade in lay. He has exchanged Ln AflPairs, and acting grand-vizier, in the place of All Pacha, who, long resisting, has at last succumbed under an illness which it is feared will be fatal ; also with Kiamii Pacha, president of the Council of State; and the Min- isters of Justice and Commerce, Cabruli Pacha and Mounetaz Effendi. He was received by these functionaries at their several offices in the Divan, and entertained there with very agreeable con- versation, and the customary offerings of colfee and chibouque. The conversation did not go, however, beyond expressions coinpliment- ary to Mr. Seward, and highly appreciative of the United States. He thought that Turkish politics, so deeply interwoven with those of European powers, are probably reserved by the ministers for the treatment of the great statesman, Ali Pacha. The Divan is a large and spacious European structure, superior to any public edifice of the same sort here, or to any that we have seen throughout the East, though very inferior to the department buildings at Washington. By the courtesy of the Government, the necessary permits for free access to the city and all its institutions and amusements were sent to us this morning. It was amusing to see ihe care that was taken in filling up the dates and inserting the names in these printed forms ; a banker could hardly practise more care in draw- ing bills of exchange to guard against perversion or counterfeiting. We understand that permits to view the mosques, palaces, and mu- seums lierc, are usually charged with a fee as a perquisite. We have made several excursions around the citv. The survey from without, at whatever point, produces the same impression, that of unmixed admiration. It has been with us a profound study to determine what it is that constitutes the peculif.r and surpassing oll'cct of Constantinople as a great and magnificent seat of com- merce and empire. Nature has invested the site with such advan- tages in this respect as no other city enjoys. It is an isthmus, and a narrow one at that, v/ith lofty and towering but graceful eleva- tions, which divide two great seas, the Mediterranean and the Eiixine, and two great continents, Europe and Asia, The seas clasp hands between the continents, which smile upon each other across the narrow strait of the fatnomloss. blue-rolling Pxtsporus. ri CI *1 1 CONSTANTINOPLi:. 001 r 'Bi' J z What would otherwise be a topographical monotony is broken by the broad, deep, and winding channel of the Golden Horn, which breaks the European coast into two not unequal parts, with banks on either side as green and gently sloping as those of the JJosih>- rus. Constantinople, not diminutive nor contracted, covers jilain, valley, and hill, on either shore, as far as the eye can reach, Avith a populous, majestic city. You take no notice of the political, mu- nicipal, or geographical divisions of the city : though the portion south of the Horn and west of the Bosporus is designated as the ancient Byzantium, now Stamboul proper ; and the portion of the city north of it and west of the Bosporus as Pera ; and the por- tion which occupies the eastern bank is known as Scutari, the ancient Chrysopolis— yet Stamboul, Pera, and Scutari, with what- ever other municipalities or suburbs there may be, are merged altogether, and make the one, great, noble city of Constantinople. From whatever new point of view you look at the panorama, you feel not the distant but the immediate presence of the two oceans and of the two continents. Boston merely encircles a bay; Xew York graces an iskind between two rivers ; London crowds both level banks of a tame and turbid river ; Paris merely clusters, like Eome, upon the banks of a narrow, tideless stream ; Amsterdam shuts out the sea by dikes, making for itself an artificial site ; even Venice, the " Queen of the Adriatic," takes refuge from it in a shallow, marshy bay ; while Naples is content with occupying an amphithe- atre, nobly beautiful indeed, but still a circular mountain-shore. But Constantinople has the deep, great sea flowing, not only near it but through it. The sea, elsewhere, is a thing of dread — the sea, at Constantinople, is a highway of commerce, and a pleasure-lake. Although dividing the city, it is not forced out by wharves, docks, or piers, on either side. You may pass from the steainshir to your dwelling-place on the greensward of your garden ; o - you TJiay enter your frail caique and float in safety on the deep waters, which at the same time are bearing by the most majestic ships that man can build. So you may, from the same pleasnre-Doat, land on either green shore of the Bosporus at the water's edge, or wind youi way among the fleets riding at anchor in the Golden Horn. 692 EUROPE. It is this peaceful contact of two continents, with the truce be- tween an old and a new civilization in the Bosporus, and at the same time a control of two seas, both relieved of their terrors, while retaining always their placid beauty, that makes Constanti- nople the most delightful place in the world. One other element enters into the picture — the streets of Constantinople are narrow, e: CI ANllKNT PILLAR AT CONSTANTINOPLE most of the dwellings and shops are cheap and frail, yet these blemishes are overlooked in the view of the ever-admired Oriental FOCNTAIX OF THE SERAGLIO. 3, witli the truce be- osporus, and at the ed of their terrors, lat makes Constanti- One other element mtinople are narrow, 693 p and frail, yet these ever-admired Oriental city, witli tlie gleaminj,' towers, domes, and minarets, of its thou- sand palaces and mosques, and a gorgeous golden sunlight c con- (i. -"=^^=*-:"^~"*=S-:»5Sir^- FODNTAIN OF THE 8ERAGL10. ^LiU;^. trasting with the sparkling blue sea, the dark cypress-groves of Scutari, and, in the distance, the bright islands of the Marmora, and the snowy peak of Olympus, It is the harmony of each part with the whole which constitutes the nameless beauty of the scene. It is the presence, not of waters diminutive as rivers, nor of emi- nences diminutive as hills, but of seas and mountains — not of the seas and mountains of one country, but of the seas and mountains of two vast and diverse continents. Jalij Zd. — The palace of Solyman the Magnificent, seated so gracefully on the promontory which divides the Golden Horn from the Bosporus, was the chief court residence of the Sultan until seventy or eighty years ago. Now, under the name of the " Old Seraglio," this groat pile has been converted into a storehouse, in which are deposited the regalia, ornaments, plate, and objects of vertu, gathered by the crown since the time of the caliphs. The '5 2; hi IE. ' M ^^i FOURTH OF JULY. C95 collection is curious. TIum-c are crowns, thrones, urns, vases, table furniture and ornaments, plate, clocks, watches, jewelry, and jire- cious stones, all of costliest material and most elaborate workman- ship, placed in cases, apparently without arran_<,'ement or dcsi<5- nation of date or history— a treasure which Midas might covet, although it is practically useless. It was only as an act of special grace that we were admitted to the alcoves which contained the rich library and manuscripts belonging to the Government. They are watched with the utmost care, since the Government tliinks it has had reason to believe that some foreign states have tried by indirect means to abstract some of them. July ith. — Although the celebration of our national indepen- dence has come to bo regarded as a commoni)laco allair at home, it is an enjoyment which citizens of the United States cannot forego without reluctance when abroad. We repaired this morning, in accordance with an invitation, to Robert College, an American university for the education of Turk- ish youths, founded by the liberality of Christo]!her II. Robert, of New York. Twelve years ago the Turkish Government conceded the site, which is the most commanding one on the Bosporus. But Mussulman jealousies caused delay in confirming the conces- sion. A long and sometimes unpleasant discussion, which occurred on the subject between the two Governments, was happily brought to an end during the closing year of Mr. Seward's official term in the Department of State. The firman having been issued, two years sufficed for building an edifice adequate to the accommodation of one hundred and fifty students. Dr. Handin, who has had sole charge of the enter- prise, is president, with a faculty of eleven professors, and already there arc one hundred and twenty-five students. The Fourth of July was chosen by President Hamlin to commemorate the com- pletion of this important work with due acknowledgments to the Government of the United States and the Government of Turkey for their favor and patronage. Mr. Seward's arrival at this junc- ture and Blacque Bey's presence at Constantinople were regarded 690 EUROPE. c: 5^ 1 IS. r t • 5ft as fortunate coincidences of the celebi-ntion. After a long drive by the side of the Ijosporus and over its eminences, we espied the United States flag waving from the college. The president, faculty, and students, with the United States citizens residing at Constan- tinople, received Mr. Seward, and, having been severally presented to him on the veranda, attended him in procession to the recep- tion-hall. A dinner, provided by the American residents, was served — the iirst public entertainment of the kind ever known on the shores of the Bosporus. And so the ivy-crowned, castellated towers near by, which, in 1453, forty years before the discovery of America, poured forth the invading army Avho subverted Chris- tianity in the empire and established Moslem despotism in Stam- boul, now were witnesses of the celebration of an event which is a sure giMrantee of religious as well as political regeneration of so- cietv thronjjhout the world. Dr. Hamlin presided at one of the two tables, which was deco- rated with the stars and stripes ; while Blacque Bey, by the leave and with the instruction of the Divan, presided at the other under a canopy formed by the crescent flag of the Turkish Empire. The guests were Americans, with their families ; Turks, of course, with- out theirs ; and the body of students, among whom were repre- sentatives from every province in the empire, as well as from Per- sia, Greece, and the islands of the Levant. Dr. Hamlin closed a spirited oration with congratulations to Mr. Seward on his arrival in Constnntinople, and thanks for the interest in the college which he had manifested. Mr. Seward an- swered in a manner which seemed to awaken deep sensibility among his own countrymen, while the natives of the East listened with surprise and pleasure to a free exercise of speech for the first time in their lives. Blacque Bey and Mr. Brown followed with speeches which were pleasing and appropriate in their allusions to Mr. Seward, Bobcrt College, and the relations between Turkey and the United States. "When the exercises closed, the assemblage attended Mr. Seward to his carriage, and parted from him with cheers for himselt, for the Union, for the Turkish Empire, and for Robert College. THE BOSPORUS. 697 fter a long drive by nces, we espied the le president, faculty, residing at Constan- L severally presented assion to the rccep- •ican residents, was and ever known on -crowned, castellated fore the discovery of ■ho subverted Chris- a despotism in Stam- [ an event which is a 1 regeneration of so- ibles, which was deco- [ue Bey, by the leave ed at the other under :urldsh Empire. The urhs, of course, with- in- whom were reprc- , as well as from Per- th congratulations to and thanlcs for the tted. Mr. Seward an- iken deep sensibility les of the East listened of speech for the tirst Ih speeches which were lo Mr. Seward, Eobcrt Imd the United States. attended Mr. Seward L'heers for himself, for Robert College. Juhj 5i!/i.— The Minister of the Navy, Malimoud Pacha, sent a steamer this morning for the excursion on the Bosporus, iiuiispen- sablc to a true knowledge of Constantinople. Wo displayed the United States flag by the side of the red banner of the Turks. The Bosporus is a channel, which, taking no note of municipal divisions, traverses the entire length of the capital ; but such a channel as no human hands could make. AMiile it is tidoless, it TDBICISU WOMAM 1:4 8TBEET DRESS. nevertheless has the breadth of the East River at New York, and a depth practically i^nfathomablc. Its wateri5, from the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmora, have a current averaging two or three miles an hour, but increased at some points to four miles by jutting promontories or converging shores. The city an<l suburbs are spread, though not equally, over the two lofty and gently-rising banks, and a hostile shipot-wai' moving through the GoMen ITorn 698 EUROPE. c: Krul -^ and the Bosporus could shell and destroy not only every warehouse on the bank, but every palace, mosque, and villa, in the entire city. The Government has a high appreciation of the Bosporus as an or- nament of the capital. It carefully prohibits the use of its shores for offensive trades, avocations, or manufactories, and they are, con- sequently, embellished with the finest public institutions, palaces, and villas. Every man of the wealthier class, besides his winter dwelling in Stamboul, Pera, or Scutari, has his villa and wherry on the verdant bank of the Bosporus, and steps from his porch to his barge, while his garden hangs on the hill-side. All the foreign ministers and consuls have their villas here, and, in ascending the Bosporus, we received the salute of many national flags. In Japan all the women whom the traveller sees, aside from the music-girls, are repulsive. In China the women seen are painted and distorted ; in India, woman seems to have no existence at all ; in Egypt and Syria, if she appears in public, she is hideously veiled. Until lately, it was so in Constantinople. "VVe have met to-day many groups of Circassian women listlessly reclining in their gayly- cnshioned, canopied caiques, on the Bosporus, as we have met them before in our walks and drives on shore. They seem greatly to enjoy this freedom, and are often accompanied by musicians imder the surveillance of the inevitable eunuchs. These women are richly dressed, in habits of brightly-colored silk which approxi- mate to the European costume, and their thin white veils, which cover their faces, leave exposed, with bewitching efff -t, eyes and eyebrows, the latter delicately painted. We have passed a thou- sand harems on our voyage to-day, and if any woman looked upon us she would only have done so through the close lattice of lu r balcony. Verily, the Mohammedan is a " comfortable doctrine " for the stronger sex. For, M'hile women are thus carefully secluded, every piazza and window on either side of the Bosporus is filled with Turks in groups, in pairs, and single, sitting cross-legged or lounging on divans, surveying the passers-by through fumes of chibouque or hookah, and over uncounted glasses of sherbet. After this excursion we can no longer wonder at the cautious jealousy with which the Ottoman Forte insists upon holding the A TURKISH GIRL. (509 ly every warehouse ,, in the entire city. Bosporus as an or- le use of its shores i, and they are, con- nstitutions, palaces, besides his winter villa and wherry on rom his porch to his [e. All the foreign id, in ascending the onal flags. • sees, aside from the en seen are painted } no existence at all ; le is hideously veiled. ^Ve have met to-day dining in their gayly- as, as we have met They seem greatly panied by musicians .chs. These women Id silk which approxi- jin white veils, which aUng cflV t, eyes and have pas&ed a thou- woman looked upon close lattice of lur imfortable doctrine" lis carefully secluded, ihc Bosporus is filled tting cross-legged or through f\imcs of ises of sherbet, jnder at the cautious its upon holding tlio Bosporus as a closed sea. Unlike any other strait of the world, the Bosporus, Avith its termini iu the Sea of Marmora and the Black Sea, would open to all nations, rivals or enemies as well as '!;:i!a:|!!;i IHi,!.! •:1,^i.i^'■||^.:,^i■^k4::'■!'w^ ■,ii 1 1 1' '''I'if 'ii'i'ii'i'i '"^■■< '" ' ■ 'ihMi-i. >l^:.||l| TURKISa GIRL IN A UARbM. friends, a navigation not only through the very heart of the capital, but through the very heart of the empire. The Bosporus, therefore, while it is an ornament, is a constant peril, and a constraint upon the national independence. Nor is it to be supposed that the Ottoman Government fails to understand that its political and religious institutions, customs, and manners, encounter the prejudices of all the Christian nations, and that the chief security for peace with each lies in the ineradicable ambitions of the great states of Europe. The banks of the Bosporus are not without the appearance of military detbnjes, which, however, seem wellnigh worn to pieces 700 EUROPE. c: ss < m CI n •►J c...;i I , Ml. a with age. The shores, as you approach the Black Sea, present a succession of barracks and encampments well filled with soldiers. The chief protection of the passage consists of a navy of twenty iron-clad steam-frigates, all of which are kept constantly in com- mission. Besides these the Government has in its employ a very intelligent American engineer of the late Confederate Army of the United States, who is providing the harbor at all points with tor- pedoes. By-the-way, the occasion of our first acquaintance with this gentleman has afforded us much amusement. AVhile we were waiting at the :i: vy-yard this morning, for our steamer, and Mr. Seward was in conversation with the admiral in command, an ofiicer in Turkish nniform stood near whom we recognized as an American, despite his fez and laced coat. Approaching, at Mr. Seward's request, the ofiicer s d that he was pleased to have an introduction to him, but had not ventured to pay his I'cspccts to him on account of political associations at home. Pie remarked that the last time he had had the pleasure of seeing Mr. Seward was when he himself was attending the Confederate " peace com- missioners," Hunter, Stephens, and Campbell, in the conference at Hampton Eoads, with President Lincoln and his Secretary of State. Mr. Seward laughingly said that he inferred, from the captain's present employment, that he might have been engaged in blowing up the United States commissary storehouse at City Point. The handsome Southerner owned to the '• soft impeachment," but lie protested that he had nothing to do with the shelling, from " Hovv- lett House Battery," of the River Queen, which was conveying Mr. Seward, with General Grant and General Butler, to the signal- tower and Dutch Gap Canal. Juhj !}fh. — Sl¥>oting almost directly across the Bosporus, we en- tered a paved court just above the level of the sea, and fiora it the majestic gate of another palace. This edifice has just now been finished, and has not yet been occupied. It is known as the "New Palace." The Turkish architect, educated in Europe, attended us, and furnished us with photographs of every part of the buildinp:. The style is a successful combination of the Greek with the aia- THE TCRKISIl CABINET. 701 lack Sea, present a filled witli soldiers, a navy of twenty constantly in com- 1 its employ a very ideratc Aniiy of the all points witli tor- b acquaintance with nt. While we were iir steamer, and Mr. ral in command, an ,ve recognized as an Approaching, at Mr. 3 pleased to have an pay his respects to lome. He remarked )f seeing Mr. Seward ifcderate " peace com- l, in the conference at lis Secretary of State, d, from the captain's n engaged in blowing at City Point. The npcachment," but he shelling, from " Hovv- which was conveying I Butler, to the signal- 3 the Bosporus, we cn- lic sea, and from it the \cc has just now hcon is known as the" Kcw Europe, attended us, part of the buildin;^. Greek with the ara- besque architecture and ornamentation of tho Alharabra. We doubt if there is even in Europe a palatial residence so extensive and magnificent. Like the marble court of the Great Mogul, with its " peacock throne " and roof of silver, this new palace cannot fail to impress the visitor with a sense of the despotic authority and unrestrained luxury of its possessor. A fine feature of i.he New Palace is its immense, central, circular audience-chamber, which is so arranged that the occupant, looking through corridors at right angles with each other, has an outer prospect on each of the four sides of the palace, and yet the arrangement is such that these corridors neither cut otF access to any of the chambers, drawing- rooms, or other apartments, nor in the least interfere with their proper use. After here partaking of a sumptuous breakfast, we resumed our yacht, and returned to the hotel. Juhj Sth. — ]\rr. Seward returned to-day the visits of the several members of the cabinet. They seemed to set a high value on their iron-clad and torpedo defences, and expressed much desire that Mr. Seward should see thoni. In their conversation on foreign topics, they spoke of Franr^e and England as the remotest points in their political horizon, and t>f the United States as being inaccessible beyond it. The United States to them are simply a wonder ; they wish to know by wliat process it was that a nation so new had grown to such a stature. Just beginning, as they are, to think of building railroads, they are amazed when told that the United States have already built fifty-five thousanrl miles of railroad, and that they add annually five thousand more. Mr. Seward found here, as throughout the East, a comple' c con- viction on the part of the cabinet that, whatever else the United States can do, they arc incapable of practising injustice toward foreign nations. Jult/ IQth. — Soon after we arrived here, Mr. Seward was in- formed that he would be received by the Sultan on a day to be appointed, and that on another day he would be entertained by Kiamil Pacln., president of the Council of State. On Saturday, 702 EUROPE. CI I ^ ^ tlic 8tli, came tlic invitation to breakfost with Kianiil Pacha at c'even o'clock to-day at his palace high up the Bosi>orus. It was announced that Mr. Seward, with a party of gentlemen, would be entertained by Kiamil Pacha, and that the ladies would be similarly entertained in the harem. The invitation was, of course, accepted. On Sunday, at noon, came Mr. Brown, our charge d'affaires, bearing a conniiunication from the Sultan, inviting Mr. Seward to an au- dience at his palace, down the Bosporus, at two o'clock to-day. It was seen at once that the two appointments might conflict, but it is the usage of courts that a sovereign's request is imperative ; and so the Sultan's invitation was also accepted, but under the expectation that Kiamil Pacha's Avould be withdrawn. This, however, did not happen ; so there seemed nothing left for us to-day but to endeavor to fultil both engagements. The ladies, having learned at Cairo the customs of the harem, had prepared toilets which they hoped would make them presentable at the breakfast, Kiamil Pacha being one of the wealthiest men of the empire, and now, during the re- tirement of Ali Pacha, prime-minister, and his wife being the sister of the Khedive of Egypt. Taking the well-manned, graceful cdiine of the United States legation, accompanied by lilacqne Bey with Mr. and Mrs. Brown, at ten o'clock, and rowing hard against the current, we arrived at the grand staircase of the villa of Kiamil Pacha at eleven o'clocli . On entering the grand salon, it was a sur- prise that neither Kiamil Pacha, nor any other pacha, nor cfl'endi, nor any other person, appeared to receive us. Blacque Bey went to explore, and returned, telling us that Kiamil Pacha was wait- ing in an adjoining apartment to conduct the ladies to the harcui. They : olio wed Blacque Bey through a large antechamber, and then through a long corridor, at the foot of Avhich he presented them to Kiamil Pacha, a man about sixty, of commanding presence, M'ith piercing black eyes, white hair, and long, pointed beard and mus- tache, lie was dressed in a flowini; dressing-gown of rich white silk, and yellow Turkish slippers. He apologized for being oi dcs- kahiUe, wliich, indeed, seouicd to us rather extraordinary. He now cjilled a deformed Nubian, and, after some explanations iti Turkish, unintelligible to us, this black custodian hobbled away, and re- A COOL RECEPTION. ro3 Kiamil Pacha at Bosporus. It was itleincn, would 1)C would be similarly of course, accepted. [.' d'affaires, bearing Seward to an au- o' clock to-day. It rlit conflict, but it is imperative ; and so ider tbe expectation Is, however, did not day but to endeavor ig learned at Cairo ts which they hoped Iviamil Pacha being now, during the re- wite being the sister sU-manned, graceful iiied by Blacque Bey rowing hard against •f the villa of Iviamil [id6a?o«,itwasasur- pacha, nor effendi, Blacquc Bey went ;nil Pacha was wait- ladies to the harem, jtechamber, and then le presented them to ding presence, with ted beard and mus- gown of rich white [zed for being en dls- laordinary. He now llanations in Turkish, ibled away, and re- turned with two Avhite slave-girls. New explanations having been given to the slaves, they in their turn disappeared for a time, and then came back with two more. Kiamil Pacha now retired. The Nubian led the way, and the ladies, attended by the four slave- women, were ushered into a large, pleasant room, furnished in the Oriental manner— that is, with luxurious divans along its sides, and low, downy cushions of yellow damask ; bright Persian rugs on the floor, lace curtains at the windows, and a table in the centre of the room, covered v.'ith porcelain and glass vases and other orna- ments, but no books, music, pictures, or statuary, vrere to be seen. Fifteen minutes had elapsed when a lady entered, accompanied by six slave-girls. She was quite 2)etife, perhaps forty-five years old, and was dressed in a simple white-muslin gown, with a single band of blue tulle on her head, fastened with an enormous sapphire, the only ornament she wore. Acknowledging the presence of her guests only by a distant inclination of the head, she seated herself on a divan, drawing her slippered feet under her, and embracing her white poodle-dog. She spoke not, and seemed absorbed in scanning, with no happy expression, the elaborate toilets of her morning visitors. They, of course, said nothing, for the lady- princess had not condescended to announce herself, or to be an- nounced by eunuch or slave. Mrs. Brown speaks Turkish fluently, but her attempts to win the hostess into conversation were fruitless, and there was " silence " in the harem for half the time that St. John at Patmos marked the period of " silence in heaven." But it was an ominous silence. The princess then proceeded to intcrro- irate her Occidental visitors after the foshion of the Orient : " How old are you ? " " Have you any brothers or sisters ? " "• IIow many ? " " How old are they ? " " Where do you come from ? " Then, with great surprise : " Why do you come so far from home ; liow can you fatigue yourselves so much ? " " Why do you not stop and rest?" And, finally, as if giving utterance to the dis- pleasure too long suppressed : " Whij did you come here in such a hurry this morning, and give us no time to dress ? " This conversation was only interrupted by puffs of smoke from cigarettes, which were successively served to her from a jewelled 704 EUROPE. ^^1 t ^ I case by a Circassian slave-girl. Encouraged by her freedom, the visitors essayed speech in their turn. They said, "We understood that we )iad the honor ot being expected here this morning ; " to which tlie princess replied, "I know nothing about it." The ladies expressed their regret, but said the gentlemen must have made some mistake. She again replied, " I know nothing about it." Turning this extraordinary conversation, the visitors asked : " How do you amuse yourself? " " I look at the Bosporus, and smoke." " What is the name of your pretty dog ? " " He has no name." " How do you call him ? " " I say, ' Dog.' " Chibouques, coHee, and sweetmeats, being now served, conver- sation ended, and the ladies were invited to examine the furniture «nd ornaments around them. During this time two other Turkish ladies entered and joined the princess on the divan, while the number of slave-girls increased to fifty — many of them very pretty and interesting, by their gentle ways. The princess commanded one of the girls to sing. She seated herself on the floor and exe- cuted a plaintive recitative, accompanying herself with a lute, the strings of which she struck with a tortoise-shell wand. It was wliispered to the visitors that the two Turkish ladies were guests of the Princess Iviamil ; and when, after what seemed an hour, Kiamil Pacha was heard approaching the apartment, they hid themselves behind the curtains with some confusion and precipi- tation. The princess now rose and extended her beautiful little hands to her guests, to be kissed, and the foreign ladies t'-,ok their leave, and, joining Kiamil Pacha, now completely arrayed in his official dress, returned with him to the salon, where they found ]\Ii'. Seward and the other gentlemen awaiting the.n. During the absence of the ladies, Kiamil Pacha had explained to Mr. Seward the contre-femps which had occurred. Server Pa- cha, the Minister of Foreign Affairs, on receiving the Siiltairs command that Mr. Seward should be presented to-day, had as- sumed that that gentleman would be unable to keep his engage- A TURKISH BREAKFAST. 705 her freedom, the " "SVc understood ills morning;" to about it." The itlemen must have now nothing about he visitors aslted : now served, conver- aminc the furniture le two otber Turldsh :he divan, while the r of them very pretty princess commanded on the floor and exe- jrself with a bite, the •shell wand. It was ish ladies were guests lint Beemed an hour, npartment, they hid nifusion and prccipi- :d her beautiful little •cign ladies t'-,uh their [letdy arrayed in his rherc they found ^h: !.n. Pacha had explained ^ccnrred. Server Pa- .ceiving the Saltan's ■nted to-day, had as- to heep his engage- ment for the morning with Kiamil Pacha, and had given notice to Kiamil Pacha to that effect, but had omitted to inform Mr. Seward. So it turned out that while, with sharpened appetites and i)ressed for time, wo were wondering wliy we had no breakfast, Kiamil Pa- cha and his wife were equally woi'dering that we had come there for one. A breakfast did come, however. In the acting-premier's palace, Asiatic forms and customs are confined to the harem. He vigorously extemporized a party, consisting of three European ministers and several secretaries. The entertainment was served in a spacious room gorgeously furnished, the windows of which open on apparently illimitable gardens, fountains, and grottos. The conversation was free and spirited, and was cluclly on Euro- pean public questions, always with kind and appreciative alhisions to the United States. Once it took the turn of converting Englibh and Spanish proverbs into Oriental forms a. d idioms, which exag- gerate compliments, with a decided loss of terseness of exitression. Kiamil Pacha was vivacious and courteous. lie asked Mr. Seward what salary he received as Secretary of State. Mr. Sew- ard having answered eight thousand dollars, in coin or currency, as the case might be, the announcement of a sum so small was re- ceived with laughter and surprise. He then ventured to ask Kia- mil Pacha, not what his salary as head of the ministry is, but what are his official expenses. The minister answered, giving a sum in piasters which exceeds our power of arithmetical expression, but which is the equivalent of thirty thousand dollars per month. Mr. Seward rejoined that old countries are the ones for ministers of state, bishops, and muftis. The breakfast was served d la foiwchctte, and consisted of sev- eral delicious courses of French and native dishes, which were cut off in the midst by an abrupt call for the jnllau, the Turkish native dish which invariably crowns and ends a feast. At half-past one, Mr. Seward, attended by Blacque Bey and Mr. Brown, landed at the wharf of the Imperial Palace. After waiting, in the office of a secretary, until the appointed hour, they proceeded, through the garden in front of the palace, to the grand entrance. Here Blacque Bey turned av/ay, and the secretary con- 700 EUROPE. c < m. 1 pi t^ ducted Mr. Seward and Mr. Brown tlirongh a ]on«^ series of ante- chambers until they reached a small apartment plainly furnished. The Sultan was seen standing near the centre ot it. The secretary obsequiously kneeled, and remained in that position, Mr. Seward and Mr. Brown standing. Without making or waiting for a salu- tation, the Sultan pointed to chairs and invited the guests to sit ; then, drawing another chair, he sat down at Mr. Seward's side. The secretary now rose to assume the office of interpreter. His Majesty made the usual inquiries concerning Mr. Seward's healtli, the time he had been abroad, and the countries in which he had travelled. He made no allusion to India or Egypt, but asked many curious questions concerning Japan and China — their condition, political state, and prospects. Then he expressed much gratifica- tion with Mr. Seward's visit to Turkey, and a hope that his stay in Constantinople had been made comfortable and agreeable to him. Mr. Seward thanked him for the marks of consideration with which he had been honored from the time of his arrival in the Turkish dominions, and for the hospitality and courtesy of which he hud been the recipient at the capital. The Sultan replied that these attentions were justly due to him, as an eminent man of a great nation. Mr. Seward said that "the late civil and severe war in the Uni- ted States had tried the forbearance and fidelity of foreign friends and allies ; that Turkey had been first and foremost of all in that great trial, and that her faithful friendship was appreciated by his Government and countrymen." The Sultan said : " It is the desire of Turkey to be at peace Avith all the "Western nations, and she takes pleasure in acknowledginj,' the prosperity, greatness, and increasing influence of the United States, which has always been a just nation." The Sultan con- tinued these remarks, saying that Turkey is behind Western na- tions in social progress, but that he hoped Mr. Seward had discov- ered, since coming here, that he (the Sultan) is making decisive efforts to advance the country in that direction. Mr. Seward said : " I need not have come here to see this, but I am grateful, since I have come, to find my previous information A SEA-SICK SULTAN. TOT ijr series of ante- plainly furnibliod. t. Tlic secretary ition, Mr. Seward waiting tor a salu- tbe guests to sit ; Ir. Seward's side. ■ interpreter. His r. Seward's health, s in whieli he had pt, but asked many a— their condition, sed much gratifiea- lope that his stay in Ld agreeable to him. idcrltion with which •ival in the Turhi^^h 3sy of which he had .re justly due to him, Were war in the Ani- lity of foreign friends Iremost of all in that IS appreciated by his L to be at peace with Le in acknowledging luence of the United " The Sultan con- ' behind Western na- .. Seward had discov- f) is making decisive here to sec this, hut previous information confirmed. You have established law and order, with entire lib- erty of conscience, throughout llie empire. I have seen two rail- roads, and travelled on them. 1 sec new roads and improvements going on everywhere in Constantin()[)lL'." Mr. Sewaril's assurances of rdac(pie liey's success in conducting very difficult and delicate atlairs at AVashington evidently gave the Sultan much satisfaction. Ilis Majesty spoke with so much interest concerning our coun- try, that Mr. Seward asked whether, in case he should again go to the "West, he would not think it worth his while to extend his jour- ney to the United States. The Sultan, shaking his head, answered with a smile, that the German Ocean made him so sick, that he determined never to go to sea again. Mr. Seward replied, "The Atlantic is certainly not so gentle as some of the seas, but the German Ocean Is the worst of them all." The Sultan showed an accurate knowledge of Mr. Seward's occupations in the capital from the moment of his arrival, and drew from him, by polite interrogatories, the impressions he had received concerning the iron-dads, arsenals, navy-yards, barracks, hospitals, and especially the new palace, which we visited yesterday. At times, when a pause occurred, the Sultan, turning Ids eyes toward the Bosporus, would call up some new topic, and so the audience was protracted for an hour. It closed with expressions of good wishes for Mr. Seward's health, and the safe and happy prosecution of his voyage, which is to be resumed to-morrow. Blach Sea^ Juhj Wth. — ^William J. McAlpine, a distinguished American engineer, and an old friend, with his family, met us at Constantinople, and is accompanying us on our voyage as far as Orsova, on the Danube. Our last view of Constantinople was from the deck of an Australian Lloyd's steamer on the Bosporus. "VVe miijht count the number of flags Avhich waved us farewell from the balconies of Robert College, but not the number of boyish voices which greeted us with parting cheers. CHAPTER II. HUNGARY AND AUISTRIA. On the Danube. — Varna.— IJustdmk. — Wallachia.— German Travellers. — What shall we say of Turkey ?—Rellcction8 on the Fiiure of the Turks.— Orsova.—Tiie lion Gate. — llungarian Loyalty. — Huda-Pcsth. — Contrast of European anJ Asiatie Civil- ization. — The People of Peslli.— The Bridge of Duila. — The Buildings of Buda.— The History of Hungary. — Tuc Danube.— Vienna.— John Jay.— Count Von Beust.— Polities of Austria. El ? * U On the Damihe, Juhj Vlth. — "We awoke this morning in the harbor of Varna, one ot* the seaports of Turkey in Europe, and the capital of Iloumelia. The town acquired great importance IVoni being the principal scene of Omar Pacha's military and naval operations in the Crimean War. It has since that time, however, acquired greater importance of another kind. The Danube, ap- proaching the Black Sea, takes a northeasterly direction, dividing its Hood into three channels. The mouths of these channels arc nnuh obstructed, while their navigation is long and tortuous. British capitalists have supplied the means with which a railroad has been constructed from Yarna, one hundred and fifty miles long, whicli intercepts the Danube at Rustchuk. This railroad, reducing the journey from Vienna to Constantinople four hundred miles, already divides the freight traffic with the circuitous Daniibian route, while it takes the entire passenger-trade. The United States consid, the British consul, and several Euro- pean and American missionaries, were gathered at the wharf at Kustchuk to welcome Mr. Seward. The Danube, now carrying a high flood, spreads here over a rKf)spt:cTs OF tuukey. roi) n TravcUcvP.-Wbat sIk>1\ T.Mks.-Orsovu.-The l.on Euvopcan ai.O Asiatic e.v.l- _Tbe liuiWi"t^9 of Buda.- n Jay.-Count Von Ueust.- tliis morning in Uk' cy in Europe, and the eat importance IVoiu military and naval c that time, however, The Danube, ap- dircetion, dividing its eee channels arc mucli ind tortuous. Briti^U eh a railroad has hecn tifty miles long, whidi railroad, reducing the hundred miles, aiready Danubian route, while u. Lul, and several Euvo- Ihered at the wharf at d, spreads here over a mile in width, with higli but not mountainous bunks. The town contains a ])opulation of twenty-five thousand, nnd has the appeur- anco of much activity. It presents less an Oriental than a Eu- ropean aspect. (i((st-hamrt\ h/'er-^taiiwr, not to speak of ships, mnnufactories, and shops, indicate a large dominating (ierman element. Minarets are less frequent, and spires of Christian churches take their place. On the opposite bank lies the principality of AVallachia, now, like Bulgaria, practically independent of the Turkish Empin>. Its capital, Bucharest, forty-four miles distant from the Danube, is reached by railroad. IIow dill'erent is the voyage on the Danube from our late ex- periences ! Passengers, master, and crew, are all Europeans, gen- erally with German features and complexions, but all speaking French and Italian as well as their vernacular. Ihit the econ- omy of the boat is purely German. There arc only two state- rooms. We have taken these at ten dollars each per day, extra ; while all the other passengers, whether first or second class, sleep as they find places, on the sofas and tables of the forward s^^loon. Thursday, Juhj loth. — Still the AYallachian bank on the north, but on the south, Servia. So at last we have left the Turkish Em- pire behind us. The only monuments whicl' the ^Vaywode of Ser- via exhibits arc the now tenantless fortifications, castles, and barracks, in which Turkish garrisons were maintained, long after the severance of Servia, for the security of the em])ire. What shall we say of Turkey 'i Let us say that, having seen it, we find it a greater puzzle than before — more completely hybrid than any other state that has ever existed — a combination of two antagonistic and irreconcilable forces — half Asiatic, half European —half Saracenic, half Crusader — half Christian, half IMussulman — klf civilized, half uncivilized — half hostile and belligerent, half pacific and enervated. Thus it has a more difiicult political ])Osi- tion, than any empire has had, to maintain ; and a geographical position, the worst that could be conceived, for maintaining. Its own security requires ♦•hat it shall not only close the passage bc- 4& 710 EUROPE. c z 1 i - I - tween two seat;, but also, dominate on the shores of two conthients. Turkey is thus ii; everybody's way. The Russians, covering the entire northern part of Europe, and bordering on the Black Sea and the Casi)ian, want free access to the Mediterranean and the Persian Gulf. Tiic English, French, and Germans, want free ac- cess to the wheat-fields of the Danube; the Italians have a prescrip- tive right to tlic Archipelago. All the countries of Continental Europe, like the United States, are becoming manufacturing ct^ui- tries. They need open roads and free markets on the borders (if the Black Sea, .\nd throughout the entire Asiatic Continent. Steadily, persevcringly, they go on, opening the roads to such mar- kets. Great l^ritain and France have already eltected railroad aiul canal communication through Egypt to the Red Sea. British cor- porations have achieved two or three railways in Turkey. A direct and continuous railway communication, across Western Asia to India, looms up already in the near future, while the traditional policy of Russia demands not only free passage through the Bos- porus by sea, but will soon exact a passage through Persia, and the Turkish dominions, from the Black Sea to the Indian Oce;iii. Even the United States, although they but seld«mi float a ship in the Levant, and only occasionally display their flag there, yet, con- scious of a maritime destiny, chafe, like the European states, against the Turkish restraints on navigatloi). Thus Turkey is in every- body's way. The empire must maintain the ^rohammedan reli- gion, or fall a victim to its fanaticism. That religion, Incapable ot' reconciling itself to Christian codes of laws, manners, custom^-, and symjiathies, naturally provokes and stimulates the hatred of tlic "Western nations. At the same time, the Turks, while they have not lost their national pride and valor, have become comparatively too feeble in numbers, and too poor in wealth, to maintain an ecpial controvirsv with any of the formidable Western states. The Christian part of the pojndation in the empire and its outposts are continually givini; signs of disloyalty to the Porte, and seeking protection and alilann.' with Russia, (treat Britain, France, the United States, and every other foreign power. Meanwhile the distant Muhaunnedan depend- TURKISH POLICY. 711 5 of two continents, isians, covering the r on the Black Sea diterranean anO the mans, ^vant free ac- ians have a prescrip- .trics of Continental inanufacturin.Qj coun- ets on tlie borders of 3 Asiatic Continent, he roads to such mar- • ctfected railroad and [led Sea. Britisli cr- ; in Tnrkey. A direct ,oss Western Asia to , while the traditional lage throngh the Bos- •e "throngh Tcrsia, an.l ^ to the Indian Ocean, eeldom tloat a ship in ^eir flag there, yet, cnn- £uropean states, against |us Tnrkey is in evevy- [thc :Mnhanuncdan reli- l^t religion, incapable uf manners, eustomr-, an.l laies the hatred of tlio he .y have not lost tlR-ir ivKirativcly too teel.lo in in an eipial controversy The Christian part nl Its arc continnally givinj: pn.tectiun and alliant.' uited States, and every t Mohanunedan depend- encies in Africa, Arabia, and on the shores of the Persian Gulf, are factious, and in any euiergoncy arc more likely to assert tlieir own independence than to yield support to the empire against an enemy. Under these circumstances, Turkey continues to "vc only by prac- tising conciliation and making concessions ; and these concessions are measured, not by her own ability to grant, but by the magnanim- ity which extorts. Never without a patron, she seeks the strong- est, but, like all dependent powers, she must be content with such as she can secure. The Turkish Government in Euroi)C has been prolonged, chiefly by means of her European allies, a hundred years. While improving in administration, laws, and manners, the empire is manifestly less formidable to-day than ever before. How much longer it shall survive depends altogether on the nuitations of that most intricate of all combinations, the balance of power in Kuroi)c. Just now, however, it has a new ground of hope for longer im- munltv in the misfortunes M'hich have latelv come to the French, Spanish, and Austrian states, and the fall of the temporal suprem- acy of the Pope, coincidences which seem to render an aggressive combination of Catholic Europe against Mohammedan Turkey im- possible. On the whole, our conclusions nuist be that the Turkish Empire will ultimately disappear from Europe, but when, or how, cannot bo determined, while no such uncertainty hangs over the political institutions of Western Europe. This conclusion seems a hard one to a generous mind that wit- nesses not only the sincere attempt on the part of the Sultan and the ministry to modify the laws and cnstohis of the Empire, but sees also so many jHeasing evidences of active improveuient and progress. It is, however, only too palpable that the closer the approach which the Turkish Empire may make toward the ideas and prin- ciples of the West, the more its European ]>roviiiccs will be em- boldened to shake off its sway altogether ; while, on the other hand, the concessions made in ellecting that a])proach tend innneasm'ably to disgust and (lem()rali;^e Mohanunedans in Asia and Africa, and 80 weaken tlie cohesion between the Government and its languish- ing or dead Oriental provinces and dependencies. 712 LUnOPE. Orsova, Jidij \^th. — AVe passed the "Iron Gate" safely tliis morning, notwitlistanding our itinerary instructions had prepared ns for the passage by the following sensational description : " "We now approach the ' Iron Gate.' At this name we are seized with a feeling of terror, but the captain and crew assure us there is no dan- ger, for the pilot understands the navigation." The Hungarians claim that the Iron Gate surpasses the most picturesque scenery on the Rhine, in point of granduer. "We arc obliged to confess that it is not inferior in effect to that of the Iliirh- lands of the Hudson, which in mountain scenery it resembles. At the Iron Gate we enter a defile, a mile and a cpiarter long, in which the river, reduced to the width of six hundred feet, has a fall of sixteen feet — above this is a succession of smaller rapids and Avhirl- pools. From time immemorial, the improvement of the Iron Gate has been an anxious study of the nations which control the Dan- ube. "While M'e were examining the ruins of an old canal around it, our friends, the American engineers McAlpine and Powell, cm- ployed by the Danubian Steam Navigation Company, were exhibit- ing to us their plans for substituting some other imi.rovcment. AVhat has surprised us thus far in Hungary is, to find that, while the Hungarian mind cherishes a sentiment of state ])ride hardly less strong than that which urged the people of Virginia into the rebellion, yet this sentiment seems everywhere completely subordinated to the sentiment of loyalty to the Emperor of Aus- tria, as the King of Hungary. BuflaPa^th^ July I'fh. — How strilcing is the contrast of Euro- pean and Asiatic civilization ! Though Ihida-Pesth is an inland provincial town, with a population of two hundred and fifty tliou- sand, the tonnage in its port, altogether of steam, is greater than that of Cairo, Alexandria, or Constantinople. AVe were not pre- pared for a scene of such activity. The river divides the port into two parts. On the southern bank is the royal palace, and n long line of fortifications crowns the hills, while the shore see. s to contain the dwellings of ofHcors and others in the service of the Government. This is Ihida. < )n itc" safely tlii8 IS bad prepared scription: "We ire seized with a J there is no dan- rpasses the most anducr. AVe arc tliat of the Iligh- it rescmhles. At ter longc, in which feet, has a fall of rapids and whirl- t of the Iron Gate control the Dan- 1 old canal around e and Powell, cm- lanv, were exhibit- inii.rovcnient. •y is, to find that, ent of state pride people of Vir.i^nuia ywbere completely Emperor of Aus- contrast of Euro- >estli is an i n land Ired and Hfty thon- 1am, is greater than AVc were not prc- On the southern ;tifi('ntions crowns [hvellings of ofliccrs hhis is Buda. <>u ui 714 EUROPE. the opposite side is a plain covered with a large metropolis. This is Pestli. We had determined to remain here one day, although we had neither acquaintances nor references at Pesth. While we were wondering what we should do, and where we should go, we saw the United States flag waving from the roofs of two lofty buildings on the terrace which overlooks the river. We rounded and deliv- ered passengers on the quay at Buda, then swept across and fast- ened to the wharf at Pesth, where we were met by the United States vice-consul, and conducted to apartments which, in anticipa- tion of our coming, he had secured in the Grand Hotel, now newly opened by a proprietor especially desirous of securing the tavor of American trav^ellers. Here we feel, for the first time, that we have left the East behind, and have only Western civilization around and before us. It seems strange that in the same conjuncture are met, for the first time, American interest and influence. An Hun- garian surgeon, exiled with Kossuth, went in the early emigration to California, where he acquired an independence. Afterward he was appointed United States consul at Bucharest, w'\ere he has resided fur several years. He has made his permanent home at Pestli, and takes great pride in his native city. But what is more remarkable is, that to-morrow Pesth gives a trial ^j two ropping- machincs, which are sent out here by the manutacturcrs, neighbors of ours in Auburn. We have passed a pleasant hour in looking down from our bal- cony upon the people of Pesth, who are enjoying the fashionable promenade of this street. There is nothing in theii- appearance or ways to distinguish them from similar groups on Fifth Avenue. Pesth, July 17th, Ei^enlng. — We made a tour this morning among the public institutions and monuments. AVe admired, as it deserved, the noble suspension-bridge which, crossing the Danube, connects the two cities of Buda and Pesth, although structures of that sort have ceased to be a wonder for us since we ha\e crossed BO often the suspension-bridges of the Niagara and the Ohio. This one is twelve hundred feet long, and twenty-two feet wide, swings BUDA-PESin. 715 jtropolis. Tliis .Ithougli we bad While we were .uld go, we saw lofty buildings Linded and deliv- aevoss and fast- b by the United bicb, in anticipa- lotel, now newly ring tbe iavor of Line, that wc have vilization around . conjuncture are iience. An Ilun- i early emigration ce. Afterward be ;st, w\cre be bas ermanout home at But what is more 1 +j two ro!^ping- cturcrs, neighbors own from our bal- g tbe fasbionable icii- appearance or Fifth Avenue. ,>nr this morning We admired, as it ssing tbe Danube, ugh structures of we bave crossed d tbe Ohio. This feet wide, swings o sixty feet above the water, and was built by an English engineer (Clark) at a cost of seven million dollars. This bridge has an historical interest. The citizens of Pesth rose in defence of their national independence in 1818, and met and massacred Count Lamberg, an imperial messenger from Vienna, who was crossing the river to disperse the Hungarian Diet by force. It may be deemed an evidence of the advance of civilization that, in the dreadful civil strife, although the contending armies by turns se- cured the beautiful structure, neither party laid violent bauds on it. On one occasion the Hungarian army, routed and defeated, was pur- sued across it by the Austrian army, sixty thousand strong. Three months later, the Austrians, retreating in their turn, were pursued across *•. by tbe now victorious Hungarians. Notwithstamiing all this, the bridge remained unimpaired at the close of the struggle. Buda was the ancient capital of Hungary, while Pesth, on the opposite side, long remained an important town. At Buda we visited the palace of the kings of Hungary, with the citadel and extensive barracks, claimed to be the largest in the world. These structures, built on a lofty eminence Avbich overlocks Pesth, have a commanding view of the Danube and of the grei t Hungarian plain on either side of the majestic river. When the union of the crowns of Hungary and Austria took place, it Avas distinctly sti])U- lated that the Emperor of Austria should be crowned in Huugary ; that Hungary should preserve its constitutional powers ; and that, as king, the emperor should alternately reside in Hungary and in Austria. The palace of the ancient Hungarian line had been de- stroyed in the Turkish wars, and the buildiug of the present one was bee;un in the reign of Charles VI., and finished bv ^faria Theresa, his daughter. This palace, however it may com] tare with the Schftnbrunn, is not unworthy to be the imperial residence. But Hungary being more progressive than Austria, her claims of an- cient rights and privileges became annoying to the imperial throne, and, in the reactionary administration of Mcttemich, every effort was made to extinguish the Hungarian constitution, and to destroy Hungarian independence. Joseph II. refused to l)o crowned in Hungary, and the palace in whiHi his mother Maria Theresa had 716 EL'ROPE. < found a safe refuge against the pursuit of Fredcrielv the Great be- came from that time untenanted. It is now honored by an occa- sional sojourn of the present emperor and the court. The orna- ments, decorations, and furniture, of the pahice are rich, tasteful, and in harmony with the customs and manners of European so- ciety. There are statues, paintings, books, and nmsic, not to spealc of cosey salons and boudoirs, nurseries, school-rooms, and chambers, impressing us with their cheerful contrast to the empty, monotonous grandeur of Oriental imperial harems. Besides portraits of -the present imperial family, there are two of great historic interest. One represents a battle scene, with Prince Eugene as its prominent figure ; the other depicts the heroic Maria Theresa ai)pealing to the loyalty of the nation. The hills around Buda are chiefly occupied by pleasant country- seats. The city of Pesth is nine miles in circumference. Three huiulred streets divide it into nearly regular squares. It is the Hungarian centre of science, literature, and art, as well as com- merce. It has theatres, colleges, parks, gardens, and every thing which becomes such a city. Among all these objec's of interest, we paused to look only at two. One was the stone stage on which the kings of Hungary were crowned, and the other the celebrated Esterhazy gallery of paintings, which is especially rich in the works of Claude Lorraine and of the great Spanish masters. Having been bought by a spirited and patriotic association, it has become the chief pride of the city. "We have had no desire on this journey so intense as to sec Hungary, When the Hungarian people rose to assert its indepen- dence in 1817, it seemed an unknown country to us. Its three centuries of strife, trial, and achievement, whilo the forces of Chris- tianity and Islamism were contending for a i)oundary on its plains, had been forgotten. The whole world were takci by surprise when they saw in the circumstances of the revolution, not only just cause, but virtue as great, intelligence as commanding, with energy and valor as marked, as those which won for our own revo- lution the respect and good wishes of nations. At first tlie sym- pathies of nearly the whole American people were earnestly with ill '4 I -!l HUNGARIAN PEOPLE. ( II riclc the Great bc- juorcd by an occa- i court. The orna- B are rich, tasteful, jvs of European so- music, not to speak )oms, and cliauibers, } empty, monotonous des portraits of -the -at bistorlc interest. ;ene as its prominent resa appealing to the by pleasant country- ireumference. Three ,r squares. It is the art, as Avell as com- lens, and every thing jsc objec* s of interest, stone stage on which Ic other the cclebratca ally rich in the works lish masters. Having iation, it has become so intense as to sec to assert its indepcn- ^try to us. Its three 11-! the forces of Chrit^- loundary on its plains, [re taken by surprise revolution, not only as commantHng, with ron for our own rcvo- |s. At first the syni- |e were earnestly with them. When, however, the revolution subsided, and its patriot leaders were decimated or sent into exile, and Hungary fell more completely than before under the heels of despotism, a few of her earliest and most constant friends found that they stood almost alone, at home and abroad, in their respect and pity for the unfor- tunate nation. Memory brings up once more the scene of Kos- suth's sad pilgrimage to Mount Vernon, and of his standing in silent contemplation before the tomb of Washington, the only man who had secured the reverence of all mankind by his successful de- votion to his country and liberty. Ills friends left hini alone with his thoughts, and, on returning, found him suilused with tears. " Washington," said he, '• succeeded; I have tailed." Having so often wished to come here and renew, on the ground, the opinions and the course of action then pursued, it is a satisfac- tion and a reward to find the Hungarian i)eople all that the friends of liberty throughout the world thought them to be— to find that their quarrel with the Government of Austria was just — that they had a right to be fi-ee — that they had the valor, the energy, the intelligence which would have gained their freedom, but for such combinations as no people ever had the ability to overcome. AHien they had surmounted factious disputes, growing out of dif- ferences of race, language, and religion in Hungary, their attempt to achieve their independence, within necessary boundaries, was the signal for antagonism, resistance, and civil war, in the sur- rounding provinces of Croatia, Slavonia, Wallachia, and Transyl- vania. The separation of Hungary from the German provinces of Austria would be a dismemberment which the empire could not survive. Russia, throu2;h the eves of the Emneror Nicholas, saw in it the restoration of the independence and sovereignty of Poland. European nations, intent on commercial enterprise, shrank from political agitation, which might reproduce the disasters of the French Revolution of 1793. And now, we are required to decide on the spot whether the sacrifices, which Hungary then made, were entirely without avail; and whether her aspirations were impracti- cable, and have perished with the failure of her revolution, leaving licr no remaining hope. The situation which Hungary occupies 718 EUROPE. c 2 mm < n 'A •^1 i »> r • ri .* now satisfies all these hitherto painful inquiries. Tlie march of progress in Europe, since 1S40, lias proved irresistible. Austria suffered bj a fearful blow received from France, costing her practi- cally her Italian dominions. Later, a blow froui (lermany, whicli almost seeuied to be fatal, has obliged her to give up the reac- tionary policy to which she so tenaciously adhered, and at the same time to tall back, as she must always fall back, on the resources, the valor, and the loyalty of Hungary. The Hungarians have taken advautage of this emergency to secure from tlie Austrian Empire a confirmation of all their cherished political rights and lib- erties, without betraying the empire to its enemies. Tliere is hardly a political right or privilege, a citizen of the United States enjoys, that is not now guaranteed to the subjects of Francis Jo- seph in Hungary, except that one v.hich no nation in Euro|)e has shown the courage to assume — the right of electing their own chief magistrate by impartial suffrage. The concession of these rights in Hungary has necessitated an equally popular reform in the other parts of the empire ; and although Hungary has failed to achieve independent national existence, which she has never sincerely striven for, she is carrying the whole Austrian Empire to a higher plane of responsible government and popular freedom. Iv. may be doubtful how the Austrian Government can succeed in the new political autonomy, which the persistence of Hungary, condjincd with the embarrassments of the empire, has forced upon it ; but it is quite certain that in no case can Hungary lose the advantages she has so deservedly gained. Considerations like these have soothed the regret with whicli we have seen our revolutionarv friend. Count Pulsky, occupying a place in the councils of the em- peror at Vienna ; and the deeper sorrow with which we have seen, everywhere here, that the remembrance of the martyrs of 1 848, as well as the names of the patriots who survived that period, Kos- suth, Asboth, and Ujhazy, seems to be nearly forgotten. On the Danube, Jnhj \%th. — The easiest and the best way to study political geography is to follow the navigation of great riv- ers. The Danube conveys and distributes among all nations the VIENNA. 719 The march of sistiblc. Austria ostiug her practi- Germauy, which rive up the rcac- i, and at the sauie ou the resources, Hungarians have roni the Austrian ical rights and hb- leuiics. There is the United States icts of Francis Jo- tiun in Europe has iuo- their own chief )n of these rights in i-eforni in the other as failed to achieve las never sincerely Empire to a higher i-eedom. Iv. may he luccced ir. the new lungary, eondMued I'ced upon it ; but it lose the advantages lis like those have our revolutionary councils of the eni- kvhich wc have seen, martyrs of 1 848, as Id that period, Kos- LriJjottcn. Ind the best way to Igaticm of great riv- ion<' all nations the cereals of Central Europe. It is a pleasure, as you ascend its strong though not dangerous current, to recall the history of Eu- rope from the beginning of AW'stern civilization. Tliu Danube was the boundary which Roman con(pie3ts diil not ^\ass until the beginning of the decline of the cmp're. It was the h , -h-road of the northern barbarians who avenged upon the empire .'le a"-o-ression aiul the insults they had received from the republic, and who, set- tling down in their new conquests, submitted themselves to the laws and religions of the enervated nations whom they had sub- dued, and gave to Europe and the world the basis of a new and higher civilization. In its whole length, from the I'.lack Sea to Vienna, the Danube was the battle-ground between Cbristianilv and Islamism; the boundar"- between them, continuallv sliiltiiif'. has scarcely yet been fixed. vVt iad a strong desire to follow the majestic river to its navigal 'e sonree, in close neighborhood of the Rhine, but time does not permit. "We, therefore, left it at Pcsth, for the more rapid but less nstructive travel by rail, and have had a ten hours' journey f one hundred ami forty miles. The soil over which we have passcu, like that of the plain below Pesth, is fertile; the landscajic beautiful; the people universally industri- ous, women sharing the field-labors ccpially with the men. Vien7}a, July Slsf. — Since leaving Constantinople, wc have been enjoying glimpses cf AVestern civilization, but only partial ghnipses, as if through long and shaded vistas. Now it seems that we have rushed into its very centre as we entered the wide and magnificent streets of Vienna. Those of our party who are iiutra veiled in Europe asked, as w-e rolled from the station, through broad and shaded avenues, bordered by palatial edifices, and orna- iiientod with classic fountains and ecpiestrian statues, to our hotel which overlooks the fine boulevard on the ancient ramparts of the city, " Does London or Paris surpass this ? " Vienna is, indeed, a great city. Its population exceeds three- quarters of a million ; its accumulated wealth is immense. Its manufacture of scientific apparatus, musical instruments, and arti- cles (jivertu and luxury, is hardly inferior to that of Paris. Panks, 720 ErnoPE. z mm < n I* (J ^ railroads, and iiavii^atiou companies, ijrasp tho commerce, not only of the Danube, but of the Mediterranean, the l>lack Sea, and the Levant. Its duircbes are built, by lavish contributions of dyiu-f devotees, in pert'eeted (lothic grandeur. Its royal and imperial palaces are of the oldest of the European dynasties. Its univerhi- ties, colleges, academies of art, its hospitals, and charities, rival those of larger capitals. Its school of music is ecjualled oidy by that of Lcipsic. Of course, it was little of all this magniliceiicc, national and metropolitan, that we could see in the short period of four days. John Jay, our minister resident at Vienna, was in the moun- tains when we arrived ; but he came prom})tly down to receive us, and has extended to us the hos])italities of the legation. Mr. Dola- plaine, the secretary of the legation, has been C(pially attentive. Mr. Seward complimented Mr. Jay on his success in achieving the negotiation of a naturalization convention with the Imperial (Jov- ernment. Perhaps no single event more strikingly illustrates the rapidity of political progress in Austria than this treaty. In I'^riU, Austria was on the verge of a rui)ture with the United States on the occasion of the arrest of Martin Kostza on board an Amci'icin vessel at Trieste. In 1850, Mr. k'Scward, when here on a visit, was coldly and distantly received by the emperor at an audience in tlie Imperial Palace. Yesterday, coming here so soon after the Arch- duke Maximilian's unhapj^y catastrophe in Mexico, Mv. Seward xis invited by the Count von 13eust, prime-minister of the empire, to a public dinner, given by that minister to the American rejircseiita- tive and the dii)lomatic cor])s, by way of celebrating a naturaliza- tion treat V with the United States, which recognizes the riiilit nf all men, subjects of any government, to change their political alle- giance, and enjoy the jirotection of the state they prefer. Yet more remarkable was it that the entertainment was given in the very hall in which the Congress of Vienna sat in 1815, to establish peace and give public law to Europe. The political situation in Austria is more embarrassing than in any other country of Europe, except France. Unlike France, its evils are chronic. The Austrian Empire is not in any sense a eon- corxT VOV DErST. '21 3 commerce, not only a liliiclc Sea, and tliu jutribntiona of tlyin^ s royal and impcri;il nasties. Its nnivorM- 5, and ehariiies, rival c is C(iualied only by all tliis magniiiccihi', in the short period of ma, was in the mouii- tly down to receive us, 10 legation. Mr. l)el:i- jeen c<iually attentive, iceess in aeliieving the uitU the Imperial (lov- trikingly illustrates the 1 this treaty. In ISr.o, . the United States uii , on board an Amerienii leu here on a visit, was r at an audience in xW io soon alter the Arch- ilexico, ^Ir. Seward was ster of the empire, to a |i' American rei>resc"iita- ;clcbrating a natnniliza- ■ecognizcs the right of nge their political iillo- tate they prefer, "let Iment was given in tlio Isat in IS 15, to ost:ibU.sh ■0 embarrassing than in Ice. Unlike Franco, its not in any sense a con- solidated nation, but, in the course of five hundred years, has ag- gregated, by royal marriages or by eoncpiest, a large number of formerly independent kingdoms, prim-ipalities, and duchies, in Central Europe. The present Austrian Empire consists of nine- teen separate states yet remaining of that aggregate, dilleriug from cnch other in race, language, habits, religion, customs, and com- merce — a part German, a part Magyar, a i)art Slave, a i)art Italian, COUNT VON UEfST. apart Turkish, a part Oreelc. There arc Mohammedans, Greeks, Rdnian Catholics, Jews, and Protestants. The Protestants are di- vided between Lutherans and Calvinists. These nationalities and •ts, necessarily separated from each other, have been held in com- Itination by force only, without social assimilations. Oi' Austria, with its thirty-five million peo}»le, it must be said, as it cannot be said i any other nation in the world, that there is no Austrian ])eoplc. 722 ErnopE. C z •Mi Vt ! u 111 Tlic world knows its subjects by the names of tliclr respective iia tioiialitics or provinces only. Every one recognizes the subject nf France ns a Frenchman ; of Sweden, as a Swede ; of Denmark, a> : Dane; of Italy, as an Italian ; of liussia, as a Tvussian — but wo know the subjects of Austria only as Bohemians, Hungarians, Tv- rolese, (lermans. Polos, Slavonians, and Wallachians. The empiii> lias liitherto had no common constitution. In the ])rovinci's (4 Upper Austria and Lower Austria, the etnperor rules as em])ernr: while, in IJohemia and Hungary, he rules, not as emperor, but as king of those countries respectively. There has been no comnKni legislature. He is despotic in some of the states ; a constitutional and limited monarch in some others. It may not be doubted tliat the em])i'rors of Aiistria have constantly desired and striven to elfect a consolidated empire. It is because they, on the one hand, have usually aimed at effecting absolute unity by coercion, tliit the several states, on the other, have striven to preserve absolute independence by resistance. The absolute in any thing is uiiat tainable l)y m.in, although, as a general law, we attain any thin;; desirable only by striving for the absolute. The great Maria The resa was the first who, with sagacity and energy, attem])ted the task of unification. Joscjili II. persevered wiih great fidelity in the worlc ; but all this policy was shipwrecked in the general con- vulsion tif the Napoleonic wars, and Austria, under the administra- tion of ^letternich, became a victim of absolutism at home, and a leader of that hated cause in Europe. His course eventuated in the Hungarian insurrection of 184S. Upon the successful su]ij>ru>- sion of that revolution, the young monarch, Francis Joseph, inau- gurated a new policy, comprising liberal reforms an'd conccssidns of constitutional liberty to the respective states. The jealousii's of these states, however, have thus far rendered every attemjit at n common and equal basis of government impracticable. It remains to be seen whether an harmonious constitution of the empire can ever be established. How can it be hoped for after such continued failures? It may, because the Danube is the great river of Europe. Its branches are the granary and the vineyard of a large portion o! AUSTRO-IIUNGAIIIAN EMPIRE. 723 tlicir respective ua rnizcs tlic subject o\' ;(le ; of Den mark, a> i a Eussiun— but wo nif', Hungarians, Ty- icbians. Tlic empire In tbc ])rovinces ot ror rules as empemr: ,t as emperor, but us bas been no comni.m ;atcs ; a fonstitutioiKii ,' not be doubted that esircd and striven to bev, on tbe one band, Qity by coercion, tliit 1 to preserve absobite ill any thing is unat I', we attain any thiiiir Tbe great Maria The- energy, attenijited the wiib great fidelity in id in tbe general con- under tbe admini^tra- hlutisin at boine, and a course eventuated in tbe successful suppri-s- Francis Josepb, inan- forms and concessions tcs. Tbe jealousies of ed every atteniiit at a ■acticable. It remains ion of tbe empire can mtinued failures ■? It liver of Europe. It= of a large portion ot tbe world, and supply tbe elements of commerce for bnlf of En- rope. Tbe nations or states wbicb occupy these banks must have tbe protection and defence that all states recpiire. This protection must be allbnled by distant states on the Atlantic coast or on the Bosporus, Hitherto the German race on i>ne side, and the Turk- ish race on the other, have contended for dominion on the Danube. But the Turkish (iovernment lias at last become effete, while the German race has found a permanent line of geographical division. The time has come wben consolidation can be successfully main- tained at tbe centre of the Danubian jdain. It is not easy to fore- see how much or what part of the German race may yet drop oft' from Austria, and be incorporated into the German Emi)ire. But, whether that diminution or abatement of tbe Austrian Empire be more or less, enough of its population and resources will remain to constitute a nation extending from tbe Bosi>oru8 to Germany and Italy, and embracing enough of tbe space between the Russian boundary and the Mediterranean to mahe a great empire. Nor can this Austro-IIungarian Empire fail to dominate on the Medi- terranean shore from the Adriatic to the Sea of Marmora. It may be asked whether, in this view, we do not accept Aus^-ria as a perma- nently imperial or despotic government. "We think not. For the transition from despotism to republicanism is due to agencies which more or less pervade the whole world, or at least the civilized por- tion of it. Nations may change their forms of government with- out at all aft'ccting their domestic policy in their relation to foreign states. Meantime, it is an occasion of sincere satisfaction to wit- ness the progress of material and social improvement that has been made on the banks of the Danube. "When we look at the vigorous and varied agriculture, and the stupendous works of material im- provement which they exhibit, we might almost fancy ourselves at home in the United States. « I cnAPTEP. in. ITALY. Venice. — American Knights Templars. — Florence. — Atlraetivene^a of the City. — Homo. — The Coli.ieuni. — Cardinal Antonelli anil the Pope. — Interview with the Pope. — Tile Italian Minister of KoreifJin All'airs. — The Schools of Art. — Naples. — Vesuvius. Karly Civili/ation on the .Mediterranean Coast. — Naples, tlie Xew[)ort of the Uoniun Knipire. — Genoa.— Siisa. — Prospects of Italy. Venice^ Jul;/ 2^>f/i. — We expected to find Venice in a dilnpi- diitcd and sinking condition. On the contraiy, while a lai-^o nninber (if its palaces and wharves arc empty and idle, tliere is at present a ]>crvading air of activity and cliecrfiilness. What can ])c the caiisj of this i Venice has become, in its dei'linc, a resort for the studious, the contemplative, and the ])leasnre-seekinp^ classes throii<rhout all Europe. It is, indeed, a watcriiijj:-))lace like Xow- ]iort, and we happen to be hero in the fashionable season. Wi; were startled this morninj? by a request of the _i;ood keeper of our hotel, that wc would set our dinnerdiour for the day at either 1i\o or seven o'clock, because at six he was to furnish a feast to ''fifty Knifjhta Tomijlars in full refjalia ! " Wo thought v.'c had read history in vain. AVe had su])pose(l that ancient and chiv.nlrous order, driven from the East by the Saracens, had been extirpated five hundred years ago throughout Europe. Wc thought — "Tho kniglits' boncn nro dust, Their pood swords rust, Their Bouls aro witii tho saints, we tru.st."' FLOIiKNCK. T-jr» "What was our snrpri.sc to learn, not only that tifty of them arc. alive antl well, but that thev were in our lodiiini:- in full armor, and that thev arc our own countrvmen ! They buloni'ed to the jlu- sonic order, and were making tlie tour of Europe together. ie=9 of the City.— Home, eivicw with tho PdlH'.— VH.— NapU-s.— Vo^uvhis. 1, Newport of the Uon.an Venice in a dilnpi- •ary, while a large and idle, there is at iicss. AVhat can he le dine, a resort for nre-seeldnj; classes no;-place like Xew- nablc season. We good keeper of our le (hiy at either live ish a feast to "lift y AVe had supposed n the East by the •ars ago throughout IruHt."' Florence, Juhj '•21th. — Gray Apennine Mountains, with dash- ing torrents, bright and cloudless skies, balmy breezes, rich and highly-eidtivated plains, with winding rivers and laughing vine- yards, pictures(pie rural arciiitecture, storied castles, romantic vil- las, these are t!ie surroundings of Florence. We can now, for tho iirst time, appreciate the art of Claude Lorraine, aud the poetry (jf Virgil, Dante, and Milton. Leaving the (lolden Oatc nearly a year ago, wc have traversed the earth's circumference more than sixteen thousaiul miles before we obtained our first glimi)se of eheerfid Eur(>j)ean society at Pesth. In brightness, dignity, and repose, the view of it has improved at every step of our descent of the Alps and the Apennines. It being midsummer, no one is in town. Mr, Marsh, United States minister, greets us in a letter from the mountains, where he k detained by illness in his family. King, ministers, and court, all are said to have gone to Rome to reorganize the state of Italy in that ancient capital ; but in reality, like the political functiona- ries of Austria, they arc enjoying the mountains, the sea-side, and other pleasure -resorts. W^e foun<l, without dilficulty, pleasant ;il)artments in the Hotel de rFitroj)e, near the Piazzi della Santa Trinita. This morning Mr. W^urtz, the United States secretary of legation, came with our letters, and has given us kind assist- ance in our hurried explorations of this, the most delightful of Eu- ropean oitiv.s. The first imi)re8sion we receive is, that the editiccs and dwellings of Florence are majestic and solemn, while the streets ar(> broader, more ])erfectly paved, and ck'anly kej^t, than any others in the world. The next impression is, that the ])eoplo "110 meets are more gentle and accomplished than any other peo- ple. How marvellous is the contrast in this resj)ect between Flor- ence and Yedd(\ Peking, Calcutta, Cairo, Constantinople, or even Vienna ! 47 n mm ENTRANCE INTO ROME. '27 'f ! , ; •rrm It lias been a snbjoet of curious inquiry for us wliy Florence, more than any other Italian city — indeed, more than any city in Europe — is attractive to Americans as well as to the En^dish. The reason, we think, is, that the great ideas which the world has de- rived from the philosopI:y, poetry, and art of Italy, have produced ill the character of the people of Florence a harniopy with the more enlightened social life of those two nations. It was a touch- ing illustration of this truth, that we found, in the foreign cemetery uf Florence, the tond)S of Theodore Parker, Elizabeth Barrett Browning, and Louise Kuhn, daughter of Charles Francis Adams, Home, Juhj 20if/<.— Even if Rome retaino a consciousness of her identity with the City of the Emperors, she could not complain a^ the lady of the harem in Constantinople did, that we had rushed into her presence irreverently. Leaving Fhjrence this morning, we passed through, what so long lias been the patrimony of St Peter, the States of tlio Church, but wliich has just now been absorbed into the new kingdom of Italy. The Italian mountain scenery contrasts strikingly with that of the Tyrol — the latter covered with forests, chietiy evergreen, alternating with fields ot corn and wheat — the former gray and rocky, relieved by the bluish-green olive-orchards, and the d-iep rich verdure of the chestnut. Old cities and villas, built not on the ])lain, but on mountain-tops, call up memories of media3val history. The railroad winds for many miles around the picturesque Lago di Trasimeno, a view of which nnist compensate us for the loss of the sight of the beautiful Lago Maggiore. The entrance into Rome, nay, the very ;ipproach to it, is accompanied with an vnpleasant feeling of the confusion of the ancient with the modern. That long arcade, which vou see on the left, is the still remaining, though broken aqueduct (if the ancient city. That mediaeval gate through »vhich we enter is a structure not unlike the Cashmere gate at Delli!, or the Damas- 1 ens gate of Jerusalem. This fine, well-built square is the railroad- station. And now, as we are rattling through compact, solid, mod- urn streets, a fountain comes into view, in which Neptune is drawn [111 his Hoating car by tritons, while the foaming water breaks over r2S E'JROPE. z a broad, rocky b." ;in. We hfivc -earcely time to notice tliis foun- tain, before we pass Tiimn'y Coimnn, its base sunk in the (lLt'|> plain anil its ca])ital towering above the city. And now we enter the court of the Hotel Costanzi, the whole of which, we are told, is at our service. Dinner cannot detain the traveller, however weary, on the first day of his stay ir the Eternal City. AVherc do we go, then ? To the Coliseum. Where else coukI a stranger puss his first evening in Rome, and that, too, a moonlight one? "Wiien we came under the dark shadow of the stupendous ruin, a courteous Italian sentinel assisted us to alight, and indicated the passage. Here was a change! AVhen in Rome in 1851), a Freneli soldier repulsed us from tliis gate at night, because we had not an order of admission from the conmiandant of the French army of occupation. At the sanvc time a French bugler, standing undei- tlie arch of the Temj)lo of Pcvice, on the ojiposite side of the street, made the surrounding ruiu echo with the notes of a Freneh n.iirtial air. Wc then remarked thnt it was not always so ; the Roman once \» 'uld have cut down the (jaui wIjo should have intruded here with such warlike floiuisli. It is fortunate for us now that the modern (iaul has withd:av.n from the ancient city, and the more jiji.'iablc Roman has resumed the i^are of its monuments. After all, the first visit to tlui Coliseum should be by suidiglit, uccause the curiosity concerning its real form, proportions, and uses, is too strong to admit of the indulgence of imagination, which only enhances beauty at the cost of accuracy of vision. ^Neverthe- less, the light of the moon, streaming into the groat arena, cnahled us to form an idea of the general outline and design of the immense structure. Those four tiers or stories of stone benches seated u hundred thousand Romans. These vaulted chambers of the hasc- ment held the gladiators pre]>ared for tl oir deadly encounters; these others, the wild beasts, and those beyond, the captive Chris- tians, who were to perish in the miequal coud)at. Thi« si'inious chamber is where the emj)eror sat while ^iresiding over the savapo an.usement. This arena nmst have drunk oceauB of blood, since, ic to notice tliis foun- asc sunk in the doep And now we enter which, we are told, is vcr weary, on the tiivt do we go, then i To • pass his tirst evening ' the stupendoi's niiii, ght, and indicated tiio jnie in 1859, a Frencli because we had not an f the French army of ler, standing under the site side ot the street, es of a French n.artial 1 so ; the Roman one.' 1 have intrndcd liere for us now that tlie !nt city, and the more lonuments. should he by suidiglit, )rni, proportions, ami of imagination, wlilch of vision. !Neverthe- D groat arena, cna])led design of the immense one benches seated a chambers of the haso ir deadly encounters; >nd, the captive Cliris >mbat. This spacioii siding over the savapv jceang of blood, pince. 780 EUROPE. iSai !'5 t • '^^ during <a single festival, beasts and men were slaughtered by the thousand ; and the same walls that now give back to us the voices of monks, performing midnight orisons, then resounded with the fearful acclamations of the multitude, which unmercifully doomed the vanquished gladiator. Our feelings were so intensely absorbed in these reflections, that we did not care to clamber among the ruined arches, or through the shrubs entangled with vines which festoon and some- times choke them. IIow does the Coliseum, the most stupen- dous of Roman monuments compare with Karnak or Luxor in Egypt ? The Coliseum is built of brick and stone ; Karnak and Luxor .are built with monoliths of granite. The Coliseum was adai)tccl 1o the tastes and habits of men ; Karnak and Luxor were con- structed for the uses of the gods. The Coliseum is great ; Karnak and Luxor are gigantic. Others may study monuments for their architectural grandeur or beauty, but wo must regard them as mile- stones marking the progress of the world's civilization. The Coli- seum, built to commemorate the consummation of the Roman Em- pire, remains equally a monument of its decline and extinction. It connnemorates the fulness and completeness of the conquest of tlie world by the Roman people. It was the place in which they cele- brated their triumph. August ?>d. — Immediately on. our arrival here. Dr. Smith, pnv fessor in the College of the Propaganda, Mr. Seward's old friend, to whom we are indebted for many courtesies, asked : " Will you see the Pope and Cardinal Antonelli ? " The question had peculiar significance, since it is only witliin the last month that the King of Italy made his formal entry into Rome, and established the national authority within the capitiil, to the exclusion of the political supremacy of the Pope. IVIr. Seward said that he would certainly be happy to receive any consideration at the hands of the Italian Government, but should on no account fail to pay his respects to his Holiness and to the cardinal. Tln'V were just and friendly toward the United States during her hour CARDINAL AXTOyELLI. 731 slaun-litered ])v tlio jack to us the voices resouiKled with the imnercit'ully doomed in those reflections, c ruined .nrches, or ■h t'cstoon and soine- n, the most stupeii- i^arnuk or Luxor in Karnak and Luxor oliseuni was adapted lid Luxor were con um is great ; Karnak ;nonuments lor their rcffard them as mile- rilization. The Culi- n of the Roman Eni- c and extinction. It f the con(iuest ot' the ;e in which they ccle- lere, Dr. Smith, pro Seward's old fViciul, ;, asked : '^ Will you nee it is only witliin lis formal entry into Hvithin the capital, to Pope. IMr. Seward vc any consideration hould on no account the cardinal. Tlioy Bites during her hour of trial, and had shown him personally kind hospitality when he was here in 18r)9. He considers it his duty to cherish cndiu'lng friendship toward all who in the supreme hour of American struggle were just and faithful to his country or himself. The Cardinal Antonelli, with whom Mr. Seward has enjoyed a personal acquaintance for many years, and who is one among the few statesmen of Europe that have always been just an^l CARDINAL ANTONELLI. liberal toward the United States, received him and the mend)ers of his party with distinguished courtesy in his splendid suite of apartments at the Vatican. Brought doubtless by sincere C(»nvic tion, as well as by the policy of the ]Ioly See, into conflict witU the progressive spirit of the ago, the cardinal-secretary, as all know, is not a favorite in republican circles at homo or abroad, while all nnist acknowledge him to be a man of great sagacity, ot 732 EUROrE. political fidelity, of liii:;li .'i('comj)lisliincnts, and refined manners. The conversation between him and Mr. Seward was cordial and withont reserve. It turned first on the great events which had recently occurred In the United States ; the suppression of the re- hellioU; the ov^erthrow of slavery, the firm establishment of the [Inion, and the reconciliation consequent upon the conflict. The cardinal expressed himself as not surprised that the public justice of the United States inconsistently allowed the escape of the con- spirator Suratt, whom the Pope had, without ]>revious treaty, and without conditions, so promptly ordered to be arrested and Iq- livered on Mr. Seward's demand. The conversation then turned on the political situation in Rome. The Koman question is settled ; the Italians have Home ; there is no prospect of immediate change, but the Pope will not leave the Vatican. He has remained there for many months, and he will not leave it voluntarily for any other residence in Home or out of it. lie will not compromise; he will wait. " Non possumus"— the words produced a smile — is the only maxim which his llolinest; can practise when required by man to betray a trust committed to him by (xod. "We were informed, yesterday, that his Holiness would receive ]\Ir. Seward in a private audience at eleven o'clock to-day, and at twelve o'clock he would receive the two ladies in the public audi- ence, and Dr. Smith was requested to be present and to act as inter- preter for the party. On the stroke of eleven, Mr. Seward and Dr. Smith ha\ing reached the Hall of the Throne, Monsignore Eicci, Maestro dl Camera, announced that his Holiness was waiting to receive Mr. Seward. IFo ftllowecl monsiiniore throuo-h several spacious and richly-furnished antechambers, passing crowds of prel- ates who were awaiting an audience. Among these di<?nitaries were occasionally seen priests, easily distinguishable by the plain- ness of their dress, and an appearance of timidity, ^ronsignoro llicci having ojicned the door of the chamber in which the Pope was sitting alone, then retired. The Holy Father instantly arose, and, coming quite to the door, extended both his hands, takini,' those of Mr. Seward. On a slightly-raised dais, at the upper end INTKRVIKW WITH TIIK POPE. 733 d refined manneiv, ird was cordial and t events wliieh lia<l pprcssion of the re- istablislimcnt of the I the conflict. The it the public justice ; escape of the con- previous treaty, and be arrested and \q- \\ situation in Rome, ave Rome ; there is e will not leave the months, and lie will !e in Rome or out of " Non possumus "— n which his Holiness a trust committed to of the cham])cr, were two chairs, by the side of a small writing- table. The Pope placed Mr. Seward in one of these, and sat down in the other. AVc arc informed that hitherto this form of reception has been accorded only to sovereigns and i)rinces. His Holiness opened the audience by expressing to Mr. Seward a grateful appreciation of the liberality and sympathy which he always experiences at the hands of the American ])eoplc, and his gratification at receiving Mr. Seward again at Rome. Mr. Seward said that in a time when many European govern- ments and statesmen were very illiberal and unfriendly to the Uni- ted States, his Holiness had proved himself just, considerate, and friendly. It was a great satisfaction to him to have an opj^ortu- nity to make this acknowledgment in person, and to congratulate his Holiness on his good health. The Holy Fatlier then freely alluded to his present political situation. Referring to the guaran- tees for his safety and support which were proposed to him by Vic- tor Emmanuel, he said: "I have no personal desire to reign, but I have a trust to keep, and to transmit to my successor. This trust is the patrimony of the See of St. Peter, which I received in my election. The guarantees offered by the Italians are a mockery and a snare. I am a prisoner in chains here, just as my prede- cessor St. Peter was in mnculis. I am aware of my situation. The kings of this world are all too busy to extend mo any help in this emergency. I can only look to the King of kings for sup- port. My resolution is taken ; come what may, I will make no compromise. JVon posswnus / " " Holy Father," replied Mr. Seward, " the question of the change of relations between you and the King of Italy is a new unc, hardly yet ripened into a general discussion. The civilized world will consider and i)ass upon it, and their decision will bo right. (Christian nations, while they know their ity to 'render unto Ca>sar the things that are Ciesar's,' know also that it is their duty to ' render unto God the things that arc God's.' The experi- ence of mankind hitherto has shown that tiiev are (luitc as careful to obey the latter precept as they are to fulfil the former injunc- tion." •31 Ernoi'F:. Mr. Seward then referred to the contidential mibijiou wliich Arc'hbifshop Hughes had executed at Koiue during the American civil war. Tlie Pope himeiited the early death of the archbishop as a great loss to the Church and to the two countries. Mr. Seward adverted to the loyalty to the American Union of the Roman Catholic hierarchy, as well as their ])0'>ple, and said that, for encouraging this loyalty, the late archbishop was entitled to the highest place. " Of one thing," said he, "your Holiness may be sure — the United States can never be unjust to any just nation, or ungrateful to any friendly state." The Pope passed his hands over jMr. Seward's face, exaniiniiiu; the fractures and scars remaining, and then exclaimed : " Voiiv escape was a miracle ! " He inquired largely concerning Mr. Sew- ard's family, his son Frederick, his wounds and his recovery, other children, and their occupations, in a manner most affectionate, and, alluding to the ladies, said he sliouhl soon have the pleasure of meeting them. Finally rising, the Pope went to a cabinet, and, taking from it a silver medal containing his likeness which has just been stru'.-k by the Roman nol)ility in commemoration of his ".aving attained the twenty-fifth anniversary of his i)(»ntiticate, requested Mr. Sew- ard to accept it, and keep it in remembrance of him. The Poj^e then conducted Mr. Seward to the door, saying, " I will soon join you in the Consistory." Meantime, the ladies had been conducted by IMonsignorc Ricci to the " private Consistory." It is one of the historical cliaml)ers of the Vatican. Here the Pope creates cardinals and announces bishops; here he ]>ronounces those allocutions which are even now im])licitly received by the faithful, and which once shook the thrones of the Christian world. During the present pontificate. the hall lias l)cen frescoed and draped for the reception especially of ladies. It was in this (diamber that the Pope received the Arch- duke Maximilian of Austria and the l-*rincess Carlotta, and ]>r(>- nounced his blessing on their attempt to establish a throne in Mexico ; and it was in this chamber that, on her return from that TIFK Pol'E AND TIIK I.ADIKS. |0.> 'utlal mil5^^iou wliich luring the American arc-libishop as a great American Unit)ii (•!' heir ]»e'tplo, a id said L-hhishop was cntitU'il [ he, "your Holiness be imjust to any just I'artVs face, examining in cxchaimed : " Your ' concerning' Mr. Sew- nd his recovery, otlicr most affectionate, and. have the pleasure uf 3t, and, taking from it has just been stru"k )f his l-.iving attained e, retpiested Mr. Scw- c of him. The Po|.e iiK', " I will soon join l)y Monsignore Hicei iie historical chambers [dinals and annouiu'cs tions which arc even ^vhich once shocdv the le present pontificate. e reception especially Lpe received the A:vli- ess Carlotta, and i>n)- lestabli.sh a throne i" her return from that ill-starred expedition, the frenzied princess, refusing to leave volun- tarily, was forcibly curried from the papal i>resencc. J)Mring the hour of Mr. Seward's audience with the Pope, some fifty ladies, many of them with children, entered the Consistory, and f(trmed into groups on the left side of the chamber below the dais on which stands the papal throne. The two ladies of our party were standing (»n the oj^posite side of the room, where they were joined by Mr. Seward and Dr. Smith, the private audience being ended. AH the ladies were dressed, according to the court requi'-ement, in high, black dresses, with the Spanish veil, and without gloves. All the children were dressed in white, and car- ried lilies for presentation to his Holiness. Just before twelve o'clock all the ladies, with the children, arranged themselves along the opposite side of the room. J'recisely at twelve, the I'ope en- tered, from a door at the side of the dais, attemled by cardinals and other prelates and otticers. Among these dignitaries were the Cardinal Secretary of State Antonelli ; Monsignore di Merode, late Minister of War; Monsignore Pacca, Maggiord<uno ; Cardinal Prince Lucien Bonaparte ; General Parberini, Duke of Castel Vee- chio, and commander-in-chief of the Guarda Nobile. The l^oj^e wore a white woollen cassock, with a yellow-satin sash, and gold fringe hanging under his left arm. On his head was the crimson suc- chetto ; on his finger the " Fisherman's King," a pidra dunt, with the device emblematic of the Immaculate Conception, but without jewels. One of the cardnials bore his red hat on a cushion. As the Pope entered the duunber, all present rose to their feet ; lie then proceeded along au'l in front of the line of devotees, who kneeled and remained in that position until he had passed. He laid both hands on the head of each woman and child, saying to each some words in Italian in a low voice. Each child presented a lily with its little hand, which the Pope received graciously, and delivered to a cardinal. "When he had passed the entire line, he crossed the room to the place where ^Ir. Seward and his ])arty -were standing with Dr. Smith. The Pojie extended a hand to each of the ladies, and expressed his satisfaction in meeting the children of his friend Mr. Seward, and proceeded to make impiries as to IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k A // 4!s /- Of. Wf %' 1.0 I.I 1^ 13.2 ^ I4£ 12.0 1.8 IL25 11114 11.6 6" — Phobgraphic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY, MS80 (716) 873-4503 ^^^ % » % I ■I 73G EUROPE. their travels and how they had enjoyed themselves. Alluding to Mr. Seward's infirm hands, he asked which of the ladies was takinL,^ the notes of his travels, thanked her for doing so, and expressed a hope that she would continue to do it faithfully. He further asked the ladies if they saw any of the sufferers in the massacre at Tien- Tsin, and, on being answered that they saw only the bishop, W'lio had given them some of the relics of the martyr Sister Louise, he said they were precious tokens. He asked in which country they enjoyed their travels most, and his benevolent face beamed with a smile when they told him " Italy." When the ladies presented some rosaries and crosses brought from Jerusalem, and asked him to bless them, he replied, smiling: "Oh, yes; I bless them, but they are sanctified already." At length, after many minutes of such gentle conversation, he expressed his regret that they did not speak Italian, as in that case he would desire to talk much longer with them. Then, taking once more a kindly leave, he returned to the dais. Standing there, he pronounced a short exhortation, all the Cath- olics remaining on their knees. He said : " I thank you all for your kindness in coming to see me. I hope that all my beloved children will hold steadfost in the fiiith, and grow in grace and in good works." Then, extending his arms he added, in a soft, melodious voice : " To all I will extend the apostolic benediction ; to yourselves, your children, your parents, and your friends. I bless you, in the name of the Father who created you, of the Son who rcdceuied you, and of the Holy Ghost who sanctifieth you, and in an especial manner I bless the brave young women from Amer- ica standing with Father Smith at my right hand. They do not yet belong to me, but I chn;rge Father Smith to take care of them while they are in Rome, and give them such counsel and instruc- tion as will bring them at last into the fold of Christ's flock. I shall m'ay for their safe return to their native land." At the close of this address his Holiness retired, with his suite. August 10th. — Since our arrival in Italy, the Italian Govern- ment has been engaged in the act of removing from Florence to VISCONTI VENOSTA. 737 selves. Alluding to be ladies was taking so, and expressed a f. He further asked he massacre at Tien- )nly the bishop, who i-tyr Sister Louise, he 1 which country they ,t face beamed with a the ladies presented jalem, and asked him 3S ; I bless them, but 'ter many minutes of gret that they did not r to talk much longer V leave, he returned to :hortation, all the Cath- " I thank you all for ^,e that all my beloved [id grow in grace and s he added, in a soft, apostolic benediction ; and your friends. 1 i-eated you, of the Son ■ho sanctifieth you, and \xv(t women from Amcr- |iand. They do not yet to take care of them •h counsel and instruc- dd of Christ's flock. I e land." retired, with his suite. ly, the Italian Govern- tving from Florence to Rome, henceforth to be the national capital. Victor Emmanuel has been received, and, so to speak, reclaimed at Rome. The Palace of the Quirinal is undergoing repair for his royal residence. The Legislative Hall and edilices are being reconstructed for the execu- tive departments ; and the ministers of the Government, as well as the foreign ministers, have ostensibly taken up their residence here. In this transition stage, the Minister of Foreign Affairs, the Visconti Venosta, though here only for two days, exchanged visits to-day with Mr. Seward. He was quite as free in his account of the embarrassment which the Italian Government suffers from the obstinacy of the Pope, as his Holiness was in his account of his duresse in the Vatican. The Visconti Venosta represents that the Italian people, while they have become practically unanimous in favor of the kingdom and the r.de of Victor Emmanuel, have lost, on the other hand, little or none of tnoir veneration for the Pope, and their sense of obedience due to him as the head of the Church. It is difficult, in the present condition of affairs, to find a boundary- line betw^een the ecclesiastical and civil authority, which will sat- isfy the people. He denied, with much warmth, the allegation that the Pope is under duresse, and says that it is neither necessary nor is it intended to deprive him of any of the privileges or proper- ties which, as head of the Church, he enjoys, further than to trans- fer to the Government of the state the military force and the revenues heretofore derived by him from taxation. " He will live and die," said the Visconti Venosta, " free to exercise the full offices of the pontificate in the Vatican, and everywhere else in Italy." We must not leave it to be inferred that we have been inatten- tive to the modern schools of art in Rome. If we have not related our visits to the studios of our countrymen and women, it is because they are, with tout le monde, absent at this season from Rome. Wo have admired, as every one must, Story's Cleopatra, and the Sibyl ; and we have visited Benzoni, perhaps now the head of the Italian school. It is manifestly true, as the world says, that the chisels of Canova and Thorwaklscn, and other modern sculptors, have not attained the science and skill of the Italian school of the i38 EUROPE. Miiddle ages, or those of ancient Greece; but tlie reason prob- ably is, that those former schools flourished in an age and under conditions which concentrated the thoughts of mankind upon art; while our own age, more practical, gives precedence to en- terprises and achievements of greater political and social pith and moment. c z t1 J,; .1 I' JVaj^les, August 11th. — It is a ten hours' jo!irney frcm Rome to Kaples. "We can say little mo^e jf it than that it is a ride, under the cloudless Italian sky, across the Campagna, and thence a ■winding way through native oak-forests, ascending and descending river-banks, and Apennine valleys covered with vines and corn, until from the mountain-bound coast you descend to the populous brink of the unrivalled circular Bay of Naples. In the afternoon, a small, light, fleecy cloud, which changed its form with every passing breeze, still tenaciously kept its place near the top of a dark, lofty, not irregular mountain. This was the smoke of burning Vesuvius. But no scorim reached the plain through which we passed, nor did a glare of flame appear until nightfall, when, after our arrival, we w^ere contemplating the moun- tain from the balcony of our hotel. Then, w^iat had been a pillar of smoke by day, became a column of flame. A serpentine river of fire was seen flowing down the mountain-side. It would be an unprofitable, if not a vain attempt, to trace the early civilization on the Italian or even the African coast of the Mediterranean. AVe should be lost, with the ancient antiquarian?, Dion Cassius and Dionysius Ilalicarnassus, in the mazes of incjui- ries concerning the movements of the " Phcenicians," the " Pehis- gians," the "Autochthones," the "Indigenes," and "Alpine innni- grants." But, long before the Roman state was organized on the banks of the Tiber, the Greeks had planted towns and attained a certain stage of civilization on the sea-coast. Brundusiuni (now Brindisi), Pompeii, Ilerculaneum, Neapolis (now Naples), Capua, Puteoli, Baitr, and Marseilles, were among those towns, and were afterward absorbed in the Roman Empire. The advantages of the Bay of Naples in regard to Oriental commerce, the conveniences it GENOA. 739 t tlie reason pvob- an age and wider of mankind upon 3 precedence to eu- and social pith and jonrney from Home m that it is a rido, ipagna, and thence a ding and descending dth vines and corn, cend to the populous d, which changed its ly kept its place near itain. This was the ;^e reached the plain If flame appear initil ;emplating the moun- iiat had been a pillar A serpentine river de. attempt, to trace tlie African coast of the [ancient antiquarians, the mazes of inqui- icians," the " Pcliis- j' and " Alpine inimi- was organized on the lowns and attained a Brundusinni (now Low Naples), Capna, lose towns, and were lie advantages of the L the conveniences it afforded for militfiry and naval expeditions, the beauty and salu- brity of its position, and its mineral springs, attracted there the wealth, the pomp, the ostentation, the literature, and art, of the capital. Judging from the relation of Brighton to the British capital, or Baden-Baden to Germany, or Newport to the United States, we could hardly estimate the importance which the shores of the Bay of Naples then enjoyed. Rome was a well-consolidated empire, two thousand miles long, one thousand miles broad, trav- ersed by a perfect and safe high-road from York in England to Jerusalem. It embraced all the great cities of the world, it had two admirable languages, and a greater unity prevailed in all de- partments of civilization than ever before existed, and scarcely less than that which the world now enjoys. Puteoli was really the sea- gate of Rome. Nymphs, naiads, sirens, and genii, dwelt in the grottos and blue-ocean caves around the shore. If Jupiter did not remove there from Olympus, his swiftest messenger permanently established himself at Baia3, and Venus abandoned Cyprus for this fascinating coast. The Sibyls held the book of fate, whose decrees even Jupiter could not reverse, in their grotto at Cuma?. On the shores of the Bay of Naples, also, was the hell which in all ages has filled the imagination Avith the terrors of a future state, and the Elysian Fields of the blest, whose name even our religion adopts as most descriptive of the felicity which awaits the "just made perfect." Genoa^ August l^th. — The courteous waving of the stars and stripes from our mast-head soon brought the consul on board, and we have given twenty-four hours to Genoa. It has shown us its magnificent harbor and almost impregnable fortifications, its nar- row but neat and busy streets, the palaces and villas of its doges and noblemen, of many parties and generations ; and its cathedrals and churches, all of which have justly won for the city its title "la Superba." We have seen its colleges, schools, and universities ; its iicademies of art and science ; its manufactories of delicate fabrics and jewelry ; its statuary, paintings, monuments, and relics, and the trophies of which it is so justly proud. These all sustain the 740 EUROPE. i noble liistonc record of tlie Genoese in commerce, as tte successors of the Yeneticans ; in arms, as not merely vigorous in self-defence against the rival states of Pisa and Yenice, but in conquests in GENOA. Spain, Sardinia, Greece, and Asia Minor ; in wars, not merely for self-defence or conquest, but of successful battles and sieges for the Cross — a career full of prosperity and faith, now ended, aftw many revolutions, in the peaceful contentment of a united and respected Italy. Susa^ August l^tli. — It has been a matter of much regret that we were obliged to leave Milan unseen, and to come through Turin without stopping at the last capital of the kingdom of Sar- dinia, and the first one of restored Italy. But Mr. Seward was there during his former visits to Europe, and especially enjoyed an acquaintance with Yictor Emmanuel, and the great restorer of ADIEU TO ITALY. Y41 •ce, as tlic Buccessors orous in self-defence but in conquests in wars, not merely for ttles and sieges for tlic low ended, aftm- many la united and respected Italy, Count Cavour, who was then in retirement on account of the Treaty of Villa Franca. It must, therefore, be enough to set down the observation that, not only has the restoration of Italian unity or nationality originated in Piedmont, but that, in these mountain-regions, the sentiment of the equality of man, which is conducting all nations toward the republican system of govern- ment, has had, if not its origin, at least early and vigorous de- velopment. The separation of Church and state is essential to the advance- ment of modern Italy, This seems to be in the way of accomplish- ment. It is not to be expected, nor is it perhaps to be desired^ that the people of Italy, trained in the ritiial and traditions of the Church, will all at once renounce the ecclesiastical authority of the Pope and become Protestant. But ecclesiastics are not dilTerent from other men. They can learn to submit in temporal afi'airs to the authority of the state, when they can no longer control it. Yet the permanent restoration of Italy involves another difficulty, which is of a different kind, and a much greater one. Italy, in or- der to succeed, must cast off monarchy and become a republic. A federal republic cannot exist with a large standing army. No state ill Europe is safe against the ambition of monarchical states with- out a large standing army. Moreover, it is yet to be seen whether these reviving, opulent, prosperous, and intelligent cities, which so lately and so long made the fair fields of Italy the scene of their fratricidal conflicts, will bo content now to acquiesce in the restora- tion of Rome to its ancient and long-maiutaiucd supremacy. — Adieu to Italy I 48 Ir of much regret that Imd to come through If the Idngdom of Sar- Biit Mr. Seward was |ind especially enjoyed the great restorer of M CHAPTER IV. SWITZEIiLAND AND FRANCE. Geneva. — The Alps. — The Tunnel of Mont Cenis. — Passports. — American Fondness for Switzerland. — Berne. — Swiss Statesmen and Politics. — Distress of France. — ^^fhe Franco-Germcn War. — Lord Lyons. — Mr. Washburne. — Versailles. — The French Assembly. — President Thiers. — A Dinner with President Thiers. — Condition of Frarce. — M. Drouyn de Lhuys. — M. Laboulaye. — Dr. Evans and the Empress £u- g6nie. — ^Aspect of Paris. — Prospects of France. Geneva, August 21s^. — We have had two delicious days on the Alps. From Susa in Piedmont, we went, by a pass six thousand feet high, around a peak eleven thousand feet above the sea, to Chambery in Savo./ ; thence up the valley of the Rhone. The Al- pine region, thus traversed, is colder and more sterile than any we have passed. Eternd glaciers are suspended from the peaks of mountains, down their sides, the rapid torrents of which serve .is fountains for the Po on the one side and the Rhone on the other. Among many interesting antiquities at Susa, one, thorouglily ii- structive, is the inscription, over its ancient gate-way, enumerating the eleven native tribes of the mountain-region, and re.^iting tliat the king surrenders his authority and assumes the title of prefect under the dominion of the divine Emperor Augustus. So it seems to have been from the beginning of the world! States are built by overcoming and extinguishing petty, defenceless, and contentious tribes. So the United States have extended their dominion, from Plymouth to San Francisco, from the St. Lawrence to the Rio Grande. The Alps, which, from time immemorial, have been the barrier THE ALPS. T43 rCE. ,rts —American Fondness for i —Distress of France.— fhe "c-Vcrsailles.-The French sident Thiers.— Condition of , Evans and the Empress Eu- ■0 delicious days on the by a pass six thousand feet above tlie sea, to )f the Bhonc. The Al- ore sterile than any we ded from the peaks of •ents of which serve is . Hhone on the other, lusa, one, thoroughly "- gate-way, enumerating >gion, and renting that Lines the title of prefect A.ngustu8. .ginning of the world! Lhing petty, defenceless, tes have extended tlieir 1, from tlie St. Lawrence have been the barrier and defence of Italy against invasion, are just on the eve of giving up that important distinction. The wealth and the vigor of AVest- ern nations have spent two thousand years in reducing that barrier. King Pepin secured from Pope Stephen III. the honorable title of " Eldest Son of the Church " by leading an army over it for his relief. Louis XIV. improved the pass by sending a French amy across it for less spiritual motives. Napoleon I. constructed liie military road used since his time. "What the spirit of conquest imperfectly executed is now to be completed by commercial enterprise, which, taking advantage of modern improvements, has projected the exca- vation and construction of a tunnel, with railroad-track, twelve miles through the base of the mountain. This enterprise, suffi- ciently bold to mark the advance of civilization for many centu- ries, has but two equals, both effected simultaneously with it, the Pacific Railroad and the Suez Canal. We think it fortunate that we have enjoyed the passage over the mountain instead of coming through the tunnel, which is to be opened in two weeks. At the frontier station we encountered our first experience of a state of Avar. A French officer demanded our passports, and vised them with care. This incident recalled a suggestion, made to the Emperor Napoleon in 1859, that nothing would impress the people of the United States so favorably as an abolition of the passport system, to which he answered, giving the usual reasons for that form of political espionage. When, three years later, the United States fell into civil war, and established rigorous passport regula- tions, which continued even after its close, M. Berthemy, the French minister at Washington, expostulated against a system which France had then given up. Now, we have left the United States, wilh the passport system abolished, only to find it restored in France and Germany. We entered Switzerland by the valley of the Rhone, and, fol- lowing its winding and highly-cultivated banks, we reached Geneva this evening. As the cars stopped, the fomiliar expression was heard, in plain English, " There is the governor ; " and in a very few moments we Were conducted by tho zealous and es1;eemed consul, Mr. Upton, 744 EUROPE. a Virginia loyalist, to delightful apartments in the Metropolitan Hotel, on the shore of lovely Luke Leman. Aiigust 2M. — We seem here to have come upon the verge of home. London papers only one day old, New York telegrams only six hours old. The hotels are full of Americans. What is it that makes Americans so much frequent, haunt, and linger in Switzerland ? Is it not for the same reason that people frequent, haunt, and linger about a looking-glass, especially if it bo a convex one that softens their hard features, by presenting them in miniature ? What is Switzerland, with its mountains, glaciers, forests, cliffs, lakes, cataracts, and rivers — what is it as a political state, with its twenty-five cantons and half cantons, its Federal Council and Administration, its cantonal legislatures, universal suffrage,, and eligibility to office, its assignment of war, peace, and foreign relations to the Federal Government, and its allotment of the protection of life, liberty, and property to local legislatures and tribunals, its universal education, voluntary if the people will, com- pulsory if they will not, its practical relijpous toleration — but vast Korth America compressed within an area scarcely two hundred and fifty miles square — the United States in miniature? Bernc.^ August 2oth. — The United States minister, Mr. Riiblcc, like most ministers at this season, is travelling. His secretary, Captain Aschmann, a Swiss volunteer in the United States Army, W'ho lost a leg at the battle of Fair Oaks, met us at the railroad- station, and informed us that the President ^'o tern, of the Federal Council, in the absence of the chief, would call upon Mr. Seward immediately on his arrival at the hotel. The republican character of the Government could have no better illustration than the ap- pearance of that gentleman, Mr. Welti, and his tender of the hospi- talities of the capital. There was neither coach, nor equipage, nor guard, nor banner, nor sword, nor mace, nor uniform. Mr. Welti came, introduced only by Captain Aschmann. He was dressed in a suit of plain gray clothes, such as a citizen might wear in a rural town of the United States. Long connected, however, with the SWITZERLAND. 745 1 the Metropolitan J upon the verge of cw York telegrams erieans. frequent, haunt, and te reason that people ^ss, especially if it be J, by presenting them s mountains, glaciers, at is it as a political : cantons, its Federal legislatures, universal ent of war, peace, and and its allotment of the local legislatures and if the people will, com- us toleration— but vast scarcely two hundred miniatured 5 mimster, Mr. Pvublee, ^elling. His secretary, c United States Army, met us at the raihoad- p^o tern, of the Federal call upon Mr. Seward he republican character llustration than the ap- his tender of the liospi- ;oach, nor equipage, nor \r uniform. Mr. Welti , m. He was dressed in In might wear in a rural ;ted, however, with the Govcmmont, having in his time more than once presided in the Council of State of which he is novv a nicmber, he is well informed, and his conversation was as instructive as it was interesting. lie expressed a high personal satistaetion in his recollection of the tiict that, in the treaty for the settlement of the San Juan question (made between the United States and Great Britain during tho administration of Mr. Johnson, but which failed of ratification by the Senate, together with the Alabama Claims Treaty, of the same period), he, being President of the Swiss Council, had been named as umpire. He explained to Mr. Seward, well and ably, the finan- cial condition of this little republic, and the entire contentment of its people with their republican institutions. Without an emperor, without a king, without a duke or count, without a pope, arch- bishop, bishop or prelate, with only a Council of Ministers chosen by the Legislature annually from the Council of State, with only an organi;5ed voluntary militia, in lieu of a standing army, Swit- zerland has no foreign wars, no controversies, no domestic disturb- ance, and life, liberty, and property, are as safe in the darkest, re- motest mountain-glen, as they are in any city under the i)rotection of the best police in the world. Mr. Seward inquired for Mr. Stacmpfli, late President of the Federal Council, and long the leading statesman of the republic, lie has retired from the administration to assume the manaijement of a bank, an illustration how the character of Gallatin was formed, and how it happened that Necker was called to restore the depleted treasury of France. The present Federal Constitution of Switzerland is framed quite closely on the United States model ; the Legislature is composed of two Houses — the Council of State consisting of two representatives from each canton ; the other House consisting of representatives apportioned according to the pi^pulation. Mr. Welti says that there is even in Switzerland a class of poli- tical reformers, agitators, radicals, who demand the abolition of the Council of State, so that there shall be only one legislative body. lie is opposed to this change. Mr. Seward hoped that it would not be made. He said that, in 746 EUROPE. ^1 I (3 m the beginning of our republic, there was a division on the subject of the legislature in the United States, Ilaniilton, witli Washing- ton, gave a decided preference to two Houses. Dr. Franklin, infln- encod by sympathy with the French reformers, advocated a single one. Hamilton's proposition prevailed in the Federal Government and in all the States except Pennsylvania, where Franklin's influ- ence secured a single legislative body. But even that was soon afterward changed. France, whenever she has been re])ublican, has adhered to a single legislative chamber. Mexico has followed the example of France. It is a singular fact that the republican system has failed, or met with only partial success, wherever only one legislative body is established, and it has not failed anywhere else. Mr. Welti inquired of Mr. Seward whether the United States would aid Switzerland in claiming the rights of a maritime power on the high-seas. Mr. Seward thought that, in the absence of a seaport, other na- tions were not likely to make such a concession to Switzerland, but he expressed his belief that as Switzerland, by reason of its re])ub- lican institutions, has become an asylum and refuge for all political exiles, the free states of the world ought to agree to guarantee to Switzerland safety against aggression or threats of arbitrary pow- ers. Will Switzerland remain a republic? Yes, it is to be ex- pected as confidently as it is to be earnestly hoped. Her safety finds a guarantee in the zeal, loyalty, and patriotism of her people, not less than in the decline of the despotic principle in the once- aggressive nations by whom she is surrounded. Even Austria is more likely to become republican than Switzerland is to relapse from that system. And now the president has retired, the capital has been ex- plored, the great town-clock of the cathedral, eleven hundred years old, has struck the hour of twelve, with the pomp and parade of a royal review ; we have fed the bears of Berne, given a letter of thanks to the veteran and wounded Swiss attache, and we are en- tering the cars w^hich arc to convey us through la helle France, to her mourning and disconsolate capital. PARIS. 747 ision on the subject iton, with WashinK- Di*. Franldiu, intlii- 5, advocated a sinj^lo L'odoral Gov eminent ere Franklin's inilu- even that was soon has been republican, Mexico has followed ; that the republican iccess, wherever only not failed anywhere icr the United States I of a maritime power of a seaport, other na- on to Switzerland, but by reason of its repub- refuge for all political agree to guarantee to ■eats of arbitrary pow- Yes, it is to be ox- ly hoped. Her safety triotisni of her people, principle in the oncc- cd. Even Austria is itzerland is to relapse capital has been ex- [, eleven hundred years Ipomp and parade of a jrnc, given a letter ot ittacU, and we are en- Lngh la hello France, to Parts, Aagnut SO^A. — AVo left norno rapidly behind ut and, following the shore of the long and beautil'ul Lake IN'eufcluitel, left Switzerland, with its glorious mountains and cascades, its rich grazing-grounds, and its simple, sjiarso, and rustic population, and, coming to the region between the Rhine and the lilione, entered Burgundy, admiring the Cote d'Or, with its magnihccnt vintages and frc([uent villages, and reached Dijon at eleven o'clock. In frontier France, which we had passed on the way through Chambery to Geneva, and again on the railway from Herne to Dijon, we saw only painful manifestations of public and private sorrow and anxiety. The more rude and simple the peasantry, the more the men betrayed a consciousness of pressing perplexity, and every woman was in habiliments of mourning. There was neither activity, nor curiosity, nor interest of any kind. When the trains, abated of their magnitude and importance, arrived at an unex- pected hour at the railroad-stations, there wore no croAvds, nor equipages, nor display of any kind in the streets of Paris, and wo seemed especially welcome at Meurice's Hotel, of which only a few apartments are occupied, and those by Americans exclusively. AVhen we left Auburn last year, a war between France and Prussia, the causes of which were laid fifty years ago, and which had been four years in preparation, had just opened. The task of reorganizing political and ecclesiastical institutions in France had become inevitable at the close of the last century. The nations of Europe, taking alarm at the boldness of the innovations, combined to uphold the ancient Church and state, and to suppress a revolution which threatened subversion of all existing authority in Europe. France resisted the intervention with a vigor and a power which, while it maintained her integrity, had only been acquired by the sacrifice of accepting the military despotism of Napoleon in place of the republican institutions she had ardently desired to establish. Napoleon's ambition urged him to push beyond the bounds of pos- sibility the retaliation which France had inaugurated. His throne and the sway which he had established from the Atlantic to the Adriatic, from the Mediterranean to the Zuyder-Zee, perished to- gether in 1814, and a compromise ensued, irksome and hateful to 748 EUROPE. t1 s both parties. AVhile Austria, Prussia, Italy, and Belgium, had conceded to France too much for their own contentment, France had been cramped within boundaries too small for her ambition. Fifty years of peace, such as Europe had never enjoyed, invigorated all the parties. The people of France, impatient of tranquillity and contentment incoijipatible with the glorious memories of Na- poleon, of Louis XIV., of Ilcnry IV., and Charlemagne, demanded of the new cmjure political activity and demonstration. Napoleon III. complied, and, by a master-stroke of policy, combined with Great Britain in giving check at Sevastopol to the ambition of the Czar. Having thus established an alliance with Great Britain, an ancient enemy and always a powerful rival. Napoleon yielded to the na- tional ambition by lending that elfectivc assistance to Sardinia which resulted in expelling Austria, and restoring, after a lapse of a thousand years, a united and independent Italy. The military ambition of France thus renewed demanded new achievements, and looked for them across the Tlhine. Napoleon, too wise for such an expedition, sought to compromise by an expedition to Mexico, which he apprehended could be safely made by reason of the distance of the field where battle was to be given, the isolation and feebleness of that state, resulting from universal discontents, and the demoralization of the United States, the only probable ally of Mexico, by a civil war promising nothing less than a disso- lution of the republic. Each of the two expeditions proved a great mistake. The national union of Italy proved, in the language of President Thiers, to bo " the mother of German unity." The inva- sion of Mexico gratified neither the ambition nor the pride of the French people, and its hasty abandonment exposed the empire to contempt at home and insult abroad. Meantime Prussia, availing herself of the defeat and humiliation which France and Italy had alrcad}? inflicted upon Austria, made successful war against that rival, and, depriving her of German provinces and allies, consoli- dated all of Western Germany into a broad and majestic empire, equal, at least in population, resources, energy, and martial spirit. to France. The French now impetuously demanded war against Prussia. United Germany saw that the hour for her retaliation FRANCO-GERMAX WAR. 749 md Belgium, had ntentmcnt, France for lier ambition, ijoyed, invigorated ent of tranquillity s memories of Na- lemagne, demanded stration. Kapoleon ombined with Great nhition of the Czar. Britain, an ancient , yielded to the na- iistance to Sardinia ring, after a lapse of Italy. The military new achievements, poleon, too wise for by an expedition to kr made by reason of e given, the isolation iniversal discontents, iS, the only probable ling less than a disso- tions proved a great , in the language of m unity." The inva- nor the pride of the posed the empire to ime Prussia, availing ranee and Italy had Isfnl war against that •s and allies, consoli- and majestic empire, ;y, and martial spirit, .emandcd war against Lir for her retaliation li t had come ; she accepted the gage of battle. When we left home, Napoleon on the Prussian border was telegraphing to the empress- regent his iirst success. Before we embarked at San Francisco we heard only of rencli repulses, reverses, and defeats. Then for nearly four weeks all intelligence was cut off from us. In Japan, we heard that the emperor had become a prisoner at Sedan, nnd that the empress with her son had taken refuge in England. Tiic.xcc- forward, as we advanced westward, the Germans were marching ». n Versailles. France could obtain peace only by reorganization with the German army on her soil, and at the gates of her capital. Then came the republic, with Gambetta at its head ; then a National As- sembly at Bordeaux. Next the organization of the Connnunists at Paris to resist the National Assembly at Bordeaux ; then the re- moval of the National Assembly to Versailles in the presence of the German invaders, and the election of Thiers as provisional president ; then the frightful anarchy of the Commune at Paris, only suppressed by the decimation of its leaders by the French army, now nnder the direction of President Tliiers, and then a col- lapse. What that collapse signiiied, whether a renewal of anarchy, or an exhaustion of the forces of anarchy, no one knew. Timid and peice-loving people avoided France and Paris as one might avoid Vesuvius when its fires had subsided, but the rumbling, in- ternal commotion still continued. The destinies of France, so far as they depended upon herself, were in the hands of a popular as- sembly at Versailles, a body of seven hundred, consisting of dis- cordant factions, each of whom thought its hour for complete tri- umph was at liand. These parties had compromised on an admin- istration which was allowed to preside and mediate for only one reason — namely, that it assumed the responsibility of relieving the French natitm, as soon as it should be practicable, of the German invaders. President Thiers was at the her.d of the administration, and Jules Favro Minister of Foreign AiTaivs. When we arrived in Paris, this morning, we found that the 30th of this month has been assigned for a debate, in which the four parties arc to decide their mutual contest. The partisans of the old regime arc expected to strike for the ancient monarchy un- 750 EUROPE. der Uie Count cle Cliambord. The Orleanists claim the throne for the Count de Paris. There are rumors and hopes and fears of a coalition between the two monarchical factions. The republicans will have neither of these, nor the em])ire, while the imperialists think that these divisions will enable them to restore the emperor, who has been released from his German prison, and is now in exile in England. August '^7t1i. — ^We dined to-day with Li rd Lyons, to whom Mr. Seward is warmly attached by reason of his honorable and upriiilit conduct as minister of Great Britain to the United States, in the early years of our civil war. France is a type, although an exaggeration, of modern political ideas. Nations will not consent to remain indefinitely under any dynasty or personal authority. They not only want frequent chaiiofes, but they have found out the secret of making sucli changes. In the United States we have fortunately a legal aiul orderly means of gratifying this desire for change. Our Consti- tution allows the people to choose their own governmental head, but requires them to abide by his authority only four years. Every four years they can turn him out. Aitgmt 2Sth. — In the Bois de Boulogne, instead of the crowd of equipages round the cortege of the emperor, under the majestic trees and near the crystal lakes, we now found only one carriage, which bore Seining Ilao, the Chinese ambassador, who came to Paris to explain and palliate the Tien-Tsin massacre. He is now returning home, after having failed to receive a M'ord of courtesy or kindness from President Thiers, who is at the same time con- strained, by the sad condition of France, to make no demonstra- tion or declaration hostile to China. August ^\st. — Mr. Washburne, the United States minister, re- mained in Paris during the entire siege, keeping up, as well as he could, olHcial communication with the Provisional Government, first at Bordeaux, then at Versailles. lie was enjoying a short res- VERSAILLES. 751 im the throne for 3S and fears of a The republicans ) the inipcriahsts :ore the emperor, n, and is now in rons, to whom Mr. arable and upright ited States, in the )f modern political ciinitcly under any ,ily want frequent t of making such mately a legal and mo-e. Our Consti- kovernmeutal head, bur years. Every 1 stead of the crowd under the majestic only one carriage, ,ador, who came to issacre. He is now u word of courtesy he same time con- ake no demonstra- pite of absence at the time of our arrival. He came to town on the 29th, and, after giving us a kind welcome, presented a note from M. Eemusat, the newly-appointed Minister for Foreign Affairs, inviting Mr. Seward to Versailles. Yesterday morning, not caring to use what is called here the " American Railroad," we proceeded by car- riage to Versailles, passing through the Bois de Boulogne. Splen- did St. Cloud is a blackened ruin, and, as it seemed, countless forts on either side have been stormed and demolished. Detachments of the late contending armies are scattered in the villages along the road — now a battalion or brigade of the French army, now of the Germans. There seems to be no intercourse between them, and doubtless each is weary of the other's presence. Driving thVough Passy, where Franklin resided during his mission to France, a curious reflection came over us : How much of this strange, eventful career, which France has endured, was due to the blandishments of our philosophic, persuasive, and skilful en- voy 2 Certainly he procured the not unwilling consent of Louis XVI., and the spirited concurrence of Marie Antoinette, to the treaty between France and the United States, which led to our national independence, and consequently to the French Revolu- tion, with its awful catastrophe. Could any other than Franklin have gained that treaty ? Doubtful. Had it not been gained, might not the kingdom of Louis have withstood the tempest ? Versailles is a magnificent town of thirty thousand people, who enjoy streets broader than those of Vienna, and dwellings not less superb than those of Genoa. So lately the headquarters of German occupation, and now the seat of the provisional government, the old town assumes a tone of activity, '^'^^e government at Versailles is not fixed, like the other courts we have visited, but is provisional and almost military. Wo stopped at the hotel. Grooms would take the horses ; as for ourselves, we might sit in the small room adjoining the conciei'fferie, or we might walk through the restaurant and sit under the shade-trees in front of the house. More than five hun- dred well-dressed, active gentlemen were being served, in groups of from two to half a dozen each, with all the clatter and din of a rapid breakfast. These were the members of the Provisional Assembly of 752 EUROPE. France. Breakfast over, Mr. Seward, with Mr. "Washburre, went to the Department of Foreign Afi'airs. The minister, M. Remnsat, a grandson of General Latayette, is an intellectual and accomplished man, and always a firm, consistent republican. The reception, though necessarily short, was genial, free, and very friendly. The Provisional Assembly was to meet at twelve o'clock. The debate might involve a national crisis. M. Thiers, as provisional chief of the state, must attend and be deeply engaged during the day. He would receive Mr. Seward at his house at eight o'clock in the evening. Thence we hastened to the Assembly, and the wa^' was opened, by officials of the Government, through an immense crowd composed of respectable and intelligent people, to the diplomatic box. The members, assembling on the floor below, were engaged in conversational groups. In the diplomatic box were an English lady and gentleman, who politely left the comfortable front seat for Mr. Seward and chose the adjoining ones. The box soon filled up with persons introduced by their legation, as we had been by ours. Promptly, at the appointed hour, the president, M. Grevy, took the chair, and called the Assembly to order. There was a numer- ous array of clerks and reporters. With great rapidity, official reports of the ministry were presented and referred, of course, to the respective committeeSj as incur legislative assemblies; while the Chamber, like them, presented a scene of confusion which ren- dered any attention to the order of business by the members im- possible. At length, the special order of the day was announced. The question, in effect, was the vital one whether the Assembly, which had been convened to organize a government, to make a treaty of peace with Prussia, and which had now accomplished Ihnt object, ought not to resign its powers. A deputy mounted the tribune and began to read a speech to the Chamber, hushed in silence just long enough to allow the speaker to indicate his posi- tion ; then followed a Avild uproar of voices ; acclamations from the *' right," the moderate republicans, interrupted by the extremists; and grumblings, challenges, and defiances, from the conservative members. The discontented rose in their seats with violent objur- NATIONAL ASSEMBLY OF FRANCE. 753 'aslibiirre,went to ;er, M. Remusat, a and accomplislied The reception, ery friendly. The 3lock. The debate ^provisional chief of iring the day. He fvht o'clock in the y, and the way was an immense crowd 3, to the diplomatic )^x, were engaged in vere an English lady ,le front scat for Mr. X soon filled up with I been by ours, lent, M. Grevy, took There was a ninncr- •cat rapidity, oflicial 'fcrred, of course, to •e assemblies; while Iconfusion which rcn- by the members ira- day was announced, ther the Assembly, crnmcnt, to make a w accomplished thnt icputy mounted the 'liand)er, hushed in to indicate his posi- clamations from the |l by the extremists ; ,m the conservative s with violent objur- gations and gesticulations ; the supporters of the speaker rose, vociferously applauding him and denouncing the interruption. I3y some arran2:ement which we did not understand, the reoresentatives of the several political partier. alternated in the tribune. From the moderate republican who began, to the extreme republican sus- pected of communism who opposed, the sagacious and loyal Orlean- ist, the obstinate and impracticable legitimist, to the crafty but non-subdued imperialist — every speaker was received and his utter- ances drowned in the same manner ; except that the more radical republicans awakened a general burst of defiance and denunciation throughout the whole Chamber. The president continually rang his bell, and in some way or other the debate went on intelligibly to him and to the House, but utterly incomprehensible to the audi- ence. The stormy scene excited our wonder. In our own Congress, the speaker, rising in his place, utters, in a well-considered and careftd form, an argument which everybody knows Avill be found, the next morning, in the daily press ; will be seized upon and read in every city and district ; and have its proper effect in forming the national opinion, which, reacting on Congress, Avill decide the meas- ure discussed. The House seldom cares to listen, and the mem- bers are engaged in conversation or correspondence. This National Assembly of France, on the contrary, seems to regard the debate as a combat in which the question is to be de- cided by the House itself, at once and according to the balance of argument in the heat of passion. "What is still more remarkable il, that all this vehemence, violence, and excitement, is displayed only by members in their places. "We heard Jules Favre, Louis Blanc, Picard, and Gambetta, at the tribune, and their well-constructed and carefully-guarded speeches, read without the least excitement or gesticulation, would, but for their remarkable brevity, have seemed dull and monotonous. At the expiration of two hours, the difficulty of reaching an har- monious adjustment amid such tumultuous demonstrations excited an apprehension that the Assembly would break up in disorder, if not with scones of violence ; and that, before long, hostile forces 754 EUROPE. might be renewing the civil war, hardly ytt completely suppresi-sed. Some of the European diplomates, in the goUery, declared that France was unequal to her great destiny ; that law, order, govern- ment, and society, can only be preserved through central and abso- lute power. The violent scene now culminated ; the president using his last remedy, announced his determination to dissolve the As- sembly if his appeal to order should be disregarded. This brought the Chamber to a moment of calm reflection.. lie then demanded, from the latest disturber of the debate, a retraction and apology for having indulged in language of insult and threat unbecoming the majesty of debate. The speaker, one perhaps of a hundred who had equally ofl:ended, thus brought singly before the House, ex- plained, regretted, and apologized. Though the House seemed willing to forgive, the president was not satisfied ; he demanded further apology, and it was given. He announced that the debate might now go on, at the peril, however, of the dissolution of the Assembly if the boimds of decorum should be passed. The more judicious speakers 5».>emed to liave reserved themselves for such a crisis. After this every speech, while firm, was conciliatory and full of concern for the public peace, and showed due and deliberate consideration. The danger was over — the National Assembly would not dissolve until the Provisional Government should have more effectually provided for the exigencies of the state. The atmosphere of the hall was hot to suffbcation, but all the members remained in their seats, and nearly all the audience. We left to obtain fresh air, and to improve the three or four hours of the day which remained in seeing royal Versailles. An hour later, we were joined by friends whom we had left in the Chamber, who, meeting us in the magnificent gardens of the palace, informed us that the debate had closed ; that the Chamber had adopted, by a de- cisive majority, a dech;ration that their body is itself a constituent Assembly, with all the powers adequate to the government and re- organization of the nation. At nine o'clock, Mr. Seward, accompanied by M. GeofFroy, for- merly clmrge d'affaires at Washington, proceeded to the palace of President Thiers, the same which was occupied by the King of VISIT TO PRESIDENT THIERS. 755 Prussia during his sojourn at Yersailles. The guards, ushers, and servants, numerous enough and elegant enough in costume for an imT)erial residence, were in waiting, and Mr. Seward and M. Geof- frey were shown up the grand staircase and through the suite of antechambers only less numerous and magnificent than those of the Vatican, and a series of gorgeous drawing-rooms in which not a soul was visible. Passing through these to the farthest one, they found a lady sitting by an open window. This was Madame Thiers, the amiable wife of the president. Rising, she gave Mr. Seward her hand, and invited him to sit down. Congratulating him on his arrival, she entertained the gentlemen for half an hour with conversation in perfect English. At the opposite side of the room, her sister was conversing with the only other visitor. Dur- ing the evening, four or five gentlemen entered the drawing-room, and were received by Madame Thiers. Half-past ten o'clock came, and Mr. Seward was about taking his leave, when Madame Thiers said that M. Thiers had returned utterly exhausted by the day's debate, and had thrown himself on a sofa for a few minutes' sleep, after which he would join them in the drawing-room. She would waken him at once. Mr. Seward, well appreciating the president's labors during the day, protested that she should not, but Madame Thiers said she was sure that the president woukl be grieved and disappointed. Conducting Mr. Seward across the hall, to an ante- chamber, she brought him to a low, broad sofa, where the weary statesman was snatching his few moments of repose. Mr. Seward begged that he might not be aroused, and insisted on taking his leave. Madame Thiers remained with the president, and, before Mr. Seward had reached the distant drawing-room door, overtook him, with the president, now awakened from his shunbcrs. Mr. Seward saluted him with a compliment expressing his high respect, which M. Thiers receiv ed courteously, and reciprocated by many kind expressions of compliment, and regret that his guest should have been kept waiting. He then invited Mr. Seward to remain all night at the palace, and to bring his faihily next week to remain at Versailles. Mr. Seward, declining the proffered hospital' ty with many thanks, replied that he was to leave Paris next Tuesday, and 756 EUROPE. had engagements to dine, which would keep him there on Monday. " To-morrow, tlien," said the president ; " come to-morrow." Mr. Seward promised to do so, returned vith M. Geofiroy to his car- riage, and arrived at Meurice's in the early dawn. September 1st. — The Chamber of Deputies yesterday brought to a happy solution the political question which h,'.d so perplexed and alarmed France. They declared that the cxe-^iitive power should remain ^^ ith M. Thiers ; that his titk sliould be thpt of President of the French Republic ; that he should hold his place three years, and have full power to administer the government, being always responsible to the people. All Versailles and all Paris are reas- sured, if not content. AVe dined last evening with President Thiers, the party consist- ing of M. Remusat, the Minister of Foreign Affiiirs, M. Geoffrey, and a few of the president's official friends. President Thiers is a short, stout man, looking about seventy-five, remarkably erect and firm. lie has a large and regularly-developed head ; his thick hair, perfectly white and stiff, is cut short and brushed scrupulously off his forehead and over his temples. His eyes are black, but spar- kling and genial, his complexion florid, and even youthful. The heavy folds of his white cravat, and his elegantly-cut, tightly-fitting, closely-buttoned dress-coat make him look as if he had just stepped out of an old Flemish picture ; and, when he speaks, his gentle voice seems less like the commanding utterance of the ruling statesman of a great and convulsed nation, than an (5cho from the past. Ilis conversation is vivacious, and imbued not so much with a sense of gratified ambition as of sanguine hope and confidence in the resto- ration of his country. Explaining to Mr. Seward the reasons which had led the Chamber of Deputies to their late important but unex- pected decision, he said : " The Chamber of Deputies and myself in the present crisis are Siamese twins ; we know that, if we are sep- arated, both must die." At dinner, he proposed the health of Mr. Seward, in a pretty speech, in which he decl.ired that ho regarded it as a presage of his success that Mr. Seward should be bis guest on the first day of his presidency of the French Republic. DINNEPw AT TRESIDENT TIIIERS'S. 757 there on Monday. Mr. to-morrow ^eoftVoy to his car- 1. cstcrday brought to .d so perplexed and utive power should )e thjit of President is place three years, imcnt, being always I all Paris are reas- ;rs, the party consist- Affairs, M. Gcoffroy, President Thiers is a remarhably erect and , head ; his thick hair, shed scrupulously off are black, but spar- leven youthful. The ly-cut, tightly-fitting, jif he had just stepped l^eahs, his gentle voice the ruling statesman from the past. His [much with a sense of .nfidence in the resto- i,rd the reasons which important but uncx- leputies and myself in ,wthat, ifwearescp- lsed the health of Mr. Irtred that he regarded should be bis guest 'h Kcpublic. Mr. Seward replied that, though France had before attempted the republican experiment, he regarded the present as the first real establishment of that system of government in France. lie re- minded M. Thiers that his fortune was peculiar as it was felicitous ; that he was chosen president not at the command, nor under the influence of a standing army, but only as a civilian and statesman. He hoped that M. Thiers might remain president as long as Wash- ington, and have a line of successors as long and as virtuous. More than thir lo statesman ought to expect, or might dare to desire. The president spoke of the difliculties of the position, and of the obstinate distraction of opinion in France, so unlike any thing that is known in the iJnited States. Mr. Seward said in reply : "My hopes for France in the present crisis are founded on two very antagonistic grounds. First, that the people of France are universally discouraged I have not heard one hopeful expression from any man, of any party, in Versailles or Paris, except yourself. Second, you are sanguine enough to in- spire the public with confidence. It is fortunate that all parties excepting the republicans have exhausted the public confidence. The imperialists, having lost the battle-field, on which the integrity of France is at stake, have forfeited the right to guide public opin- ion. The two royalist parties have not regained the vitality lost years ago. The republican party, altnough it smarts now, as it has done on so many previous occasions, unjustly, under the reponsi- bility of the fraternization with it of the worst and lowest political elements of Europe, still has command of the field. France will now, I think, accept the republic, not because she is yet prepared to love or trust it, but because she has sufticicntly tried and proved the impracticability of the kingdom and the empire." Madame Thiers and her sister are highly-accomplished ladies, with more vivdcity than, and quite as practical and energetic as the most practical of, our countrywomen. After dinner, there was a general and distinguished reception of visitors, who had come to congratulate the president. Among these were the papal nuncio, the Prince de Chigi Albani, Lord Lyons, Prince Metternich, Mr. Washburne, cardinals, archbishops, 49 758 EUROPE. bishops, generals, admirals, deputies from all sides of the Chamber, and many ladies. It was suggestive of thought to see this plain civilian, this in- depender :nian, who virtually had been proscribed by all parties foi Liiity years, now, at the united command of the Frencli nation, called to its head to redeem it from the dangers and dis- asters into which it had fallen by rejecting his wise, disinterested, and patriotic advice. •^1 September Mh. — It is a consequence of the extraordinary condi- tion of France at the present moment that society of all kinds is broken up at Paris. The timid and prudent citizens, not yet as- sured of peace, have not returned to the city. The imperial court is dispersed, the Communists are suppressed, and the dominant party is with the government at Versailles. At the same time nothing is considered permament there. It is only a provisional government at best, and tho Chamber is already distracted by the question of the removal of tlie government to Paris. This condi- tion, however, is perhaps not vmfavorable to a study of the political tendencies of the times. "We, of course, meet persons of all par- ties. It has been a pleasure to again see M. Henri Mercicr, former French minister at Washington, and his successor, the Marquis de Montholon, always cordial and friendly in his good wishes for the United States. It is a source of much regret that we do not meet Signor Pertinatti, formerly Ittilian minister at Washington, always so true, earnest, and sympathetic. He is now Italian minister at the Hague, and writes that he has been making preparations to receive us there. Put the time intervening before our embarkation for home is so short that we shall be unable to visit Holland. An in- terview of especial interest was that with M. Drouyn de Lluiys, who was the successor of M. Thouvenel as Minister of Forciirn Affairs at Paris during our civil war, but was replaced later by M. Lavallette. M. Drouyn de Lhuys is a gentlemen of fortune, now residing at Paris, unemployed, and the newspapers are disjtutini? the probabilities of his being called to office by President Thiers. He is a tall, stout man, not much, if at all, beyond sixty, with a mas- DROUYX DE LIIUYS. 759 3S of the Chamber, in civilian, this in- proseribcd by all land of the French e dangers and dis- wise, disinterested, sivc head, an open countenance, a very kindly as well as intellectual expression, and manners at once courtly, franlc, and simple. Ho speaks English (piite well. The conversation ranged on topics far and wide, its chief one being the relations between France and the United States past and present. M. Drouyn de Lhuys, though in the ministry during the period when he had to treat with the ques- tions growing out of the French expedition to Mexico, M'as not extraordinary condi- ciety of all kinds is citizens, not yet as- The imperial court , and the dominant At the same time s only a provisional idy distracted by the 3 Paris. This condi- study of the political t persons of all par- icnri Mercier, former issor, the Marquis de good wishes for the that we do not meet Washington, always talian minister at the i-eparations to receive lour embarkation for sit Holland. An in- :. Drouyn de Lhuys, Minister of Foreign replaced later by M. ■men of fortune, now ^japers are disputiiii? by President Thiers. ,ud sixty, with a mas- DKOUYN DE UIUV8. engaged in the incepaon of that enterprise, and, indeed, had always been opposed to it. lie is the only statesman, excepting President Thiers, whom we have met here that seems hopeful of France. He says tiie worst part of the road is passed. France must give up her dream of national aggrandizement and military glory, which are the sources of all her misfortunes. He thinks that she will do so, and will rise to a higher position than ever. 760 EDROrE. It hfis been an especial pleasure to make the personal acquaint- ance of M. Laboulayc, who is now a prouiincnt republican menib( r of the National Assembly. lie was a warm well-wisher of tlio United States duriii'c our war, and his " Paris in America " has been read with interest thronghout the United States. lie seems depressed about the })rcscnt state of France. Acknowledging the cheering encouragement which M. ]^abou- laye had given us in our civil conflict, we thought it our turn to in- spire him with courage about the situation of France. The cases are not entirely dilFercnt. In the United States, wo wanted to abolish slaverv, and to save the Union. Either motive was enouuli of itself to make a party, but it was difficult to create a party that would accept both as practicable. It is just so now in Franvc. The French want a republic, and wish to preserve the integrity and prestige of France, but are unable to see how both can be done by the same party at the same time. One may be assured, however, that, each being right and just in itself, both objects will be se- cured, and the time has come when they must be secured to- gether. Sej)teml)er ^th. — One of the effects of the acquisition of absohitc power seems to be an isolation, which can only be relieved by tlie adoption of unofficial, perhaps obscure persons, as friends, who by merit or address become favorites — a relation which, although it is sometimes a useful, is often an unpopular one. Dr. Evans, an American dentist, was early accepted in that character by Napoleon soon after the coup cVctat. Through his long professional service he received frequent and valuable tokens of the emperor's regard. If it had been doubted whether he did not exaggerate the measure of imperial fiivor he enjoyed, those doubts were entirely removed during our civil war, when, on two occasions, Dr. Evans came to the Department of State at Washington, with confidential messages and inquiries from the Emperor of France. While these messages were received, they were, of course, fully made known to the presi- dent, and responded to by his authority. At the same +imc, tlic execution of the trust by the doctor was in all respects moderate DK. EVANS. 761 personal acqua'mt- cpublicau nicinl)^">' vvcU-wiBlicr of tbo in America" hi^^ Btates. lie seems t whicli M. La\)ou- [it it our turn to iu- Franee. The cascrt ates, wo wanted to motive was enough 3 create a party that so now in France, rve the integrity and both can be done i).y be assured, however, h objects will be sc- must be secured to- icquisitionofabsohitc ily be relieved by the [is, as friends, who by which, although it is lonc. Dr. Evans, an •haracter by Kapoleou L professional service jthe emperor's regard. ;aggerate the mcasm-c IvcTe entirely removed .s, Dr. Evans came to confidential mcssa<?es I While these messages lie known to the pvcsi- [vt the same +inic, the all respects moderate and becoming. It is duo also to the emperor to say that all his personal messages, of that kind received, were frank, and no expec- tation raised by them was ever disappointed. Under these circum- stances, our visit to Paris alfordcd a pleasant renewal of acquaint- ance with Dr. Evans, and it was a satisfaction to lind that, in the disasters which overtook the imj)erial family, there was no loss of lidelity on the one side nor of confidence on the other. It was in- teresting to hear Dr. Evans's account of the empress's escape from France, a transaction in which he took an important part. After the battle of Sedan left Napoleon III. a prisoner of war, and the empire prostrate, the imperial ministers and members of the Corps Ugislatif v\\&\\q(S. at once to the empress regent, at the Tuileries, and told her that she must fly, without an instant's de- lay. At seven in the evening, attended by one lady, she left the palace by a side-door, where they called a common fiacre. They drove in this up the Champs Elysees^ a mile or more, stopped in the street, dismissed the vehicle, walked a square or two, took an- oi\\er Jiacre and drove to Dr. Evans's door, and rang the bell. Mrs. Evans was absent. The doctor was entertaining some friends at din- ner, entirely ignorant of the great political transactions of the day. A servant went to him and whispered to him that a lady, at the door, said she must see him, and could not be put off. The doctor returned answer that he was at dinner and could not leave the table. The empress, not to be repulsed, walked through the open door into the office. Learning this, the doctor excused himself, and went to see who the intruder mis-ht be : imagine his astonish- ment and dismay at finding the empress, and hearing hei exclaim, " Doctor, you must save me ! " Few words of explanation were necessary. The Empress Euge- nie, like Marie Antoinette, had made good her escape from the Tuileries alone, but with his aid only could she now escape from Paris, and find an asylum in a foreign country. Leaving the em- press and her attendant in a room with closed doors, Dr. Evans, as soon as possible, dismissed his friends ; and, without even informing his servants of his purpose, went to his stables, ordered his own carriage, and engaged a friend to go with him. The two ladies '62 EUROPE. remained unseen until two o'clock in the morning, when the car- riage drove to the door. The empress was in the mourning wliich the court had worn since the reverses of the French arms. The black crtpe bonnet might excite attention ; she laid it aside, and, in its place, took a simple round hat of Mrs. Evans's. Then, witli her lady attendant and Dr. Evans, she entered the carriage : the friend rode on the box. The streets were thronged with excited crowds, who, however, paid no attention to the unostentatious equipage of the fugitives. Arrived at the city gate, it was found in charge of a republican guard, who demanded the names of the travellers. The doctor gave his own name, address, and profes- sion ; and, remarking that great events were occurring in Paris, handed the guard a morning paper, and drove on. Travelling all day, they reached at night a village where Mrs. Evans was staying, who supplied the empress with apparel moi-e suitable for a voyage across the Channel. Arriving finally at tlie coast, the doctor procured from an Englishman the loan of his yacht, and they embarked near Trouville, a short distance south of Havre, at midnight. After a fearful passage of twenty hours, in a heavy sea, they finally efiected their landing on the hospitable British shore. Dr. Evans's first duty, on arriving in England, Avas to relieve the mother's anxiety for Louis, the prince imperial, who so soon after Saarbriick was privately sent from the scene of war by the emperor. He found his way to the prince, in spite of the guard, who distrusted the visitor. The prince, on seeing him, at once exclaimed, " Where is my mother 2 " The doctor could scarcely suppress his emotion when he concluded his narrative by saying : " I conducted the empress to him, and, when I witnessed their embrace, and heard their exclamations, ' Louis ! ' ' Mannua ! ' I felt that my mission, not only for this emergency, but for life, was accomplished." How unable we are to judge of the reality and magnitude of a danger when it has been safely escaped 1 Many, perhaps, believe that the empress might have safely remained at the Tuileries; but when we remember the violence of the Communists — the murder of the Archbishop of Paris, and other atrocities during and after THE MlSFOllTUNES OF FRANCE. TCP, the siege of the city — there is every reason to be th.ankful that her escape saved maddened Paris from a cruel and atrocious crime. Septemher hth. — It remains for us only to acknowledge the gen- erous and elegant hospitalities which were extended to us b}' our friend Mr. Washburne, United States minister, and the United States consul-general Mr. Head, Mr. Appleton, and many oilier Americans. It is with sincere pride that we learn that their calm courage and fortitude during the political crisis at the capital won for them universal esteem and confidence. Paris, as we leave it, wears a sad and despairing aspect. All parties are humiliated alike in the overthrow of a military prestige that they trace back with pride to Louis XIV., and even to Charle- magne ; in the payment of indemnities as great as the most rapa- cious of French armies ever extorted from foreign states ; and in the loss of territories which were at once a resource and an in- valuable line of defence. Moreover, no party indulges any san- guine hope of a renewal of the prestige and power that have been lost. For all this, however, we leave France with stronger hope than ever in its future. The people of Franco are generous, per- haps the most generous in the world. If they have been diverted from the more prudent path of national development to pursue the career of military glory, even that is a fault kindred to national virtue. For seventy years France has been the chief tlu^atre of the struggles for the establishment of the republic in Europe. If she has failed hitherto to achieve it, two things arc to be considered in extenuation : First, that only one country in Europe has estabHshed it — namely, Switzerland ; and, second, that Switzerland is embar- rassed by none of the grave difficulties which surround France. It was the misfortune of France that the Protestant Reformation failed there, while it succeeded in the northern parts of the Conti- nent and in Great Britain. It was alike the misfortune of Franco that she was called to accept the republic while ns yet the principle of despotic power was unbroken and unshaken throughout the Continent. Still further, it was her misfortune that the sway of the republic has been incompatible with the contest which she has 764 EUROPE. i n necessarily been obliged to hold against a despotic combination. But all these difficulties arc passed at last. The French nation no longer excites the fears or has motives for provoking the hostility of other nations. Left at liberty to retrieve her national disasters, all her energies will be applied to that purpose. The promptness with which her people meet the financial exigencies of their trying situation proves that her resources are adequate. On the other hand, such is the influence of France everywhere in Europe that every new step which she makes in popular government demoralizes all the nations who have been her rivals and her enemies. Bis- marck and his imperial master have manifested the highest sagacity and ability in humiliating France from her position as the first Continental power of Europe, and raising Germany to that proud place. But not only Bismarck and the Kaiser, but also the King of Italy, and the Emperor of Austria, and the Czar of Russia, and even the statesmen of England, will probably fi' .i it a nmch more difficult task to hold their respective countries back from the disor- ganizing ways of republicanism if France shall persevere Mnsely in that direction. The bugbear of Europe to-day is communism, as it is the fear of France. Communism is, nevertheless, in Franco a manageable evil. It is the protest of the laborers of France, now largely educated, against the conscription and military service which has been a social calnmity ever since her great Revolution. The agitation of communism will not cease either in France or in anv other European country so long as ten millions of the laboring population of the Continent are withdrawn from productive occupa- tion to become consumers. On the other hand, the ecclesiastical institutions and prejudices of Europe are so much broken down that the republic has no strong obstacle anywhere but the standing armies. Let these, by whatever means, be replaced by a voluntary and moderate militia force, and every European state will slide at once into the republican system as easily, as gracefully, and as safely, as Switzerland and the United States have already. Gspotic combination, le French nation no evoking the hostility ler national disasters, )se. The promptness ;encie8 of their trying luate. On the other dicre in Europe that vcrnment demoralizes id her enemies. Bis- •d the highest sagacity ■ position as the iirst Germany to that proud ser, but also the King [le Czar of Russia, and ly fi' ^ it a nmch more 3S back from the disor- all persevere wisely in day is communism, us vertheless, in France a Iborers of France, now- military service which ■eat Revolution. Tho r in France or in any lillions of the laboring ■om productive occupa- and, the ccclesiasticul |o much broken down here but the standing iplaccd by a voluntary lean state Avill slide at as gracefully, and as lavc already. CHAPTER Y. GERMANY, ENGLAND, AND HOME. Belgium. — Berlin. — Mr. Bancroft. — Humboldt. — Tho German Empire. — Its Rise and Grandeur. — Its Policy. — Hamburg. — A Free City. — A Ilandsonic City. — On the Thames. — Activity of its Commerce. — Greatness of London. — Government Machinery in Great Britain. — Its Slow Working. — Rural Beauty of England. — On Board the Java. — Her Passengers. — Montrosc-on-Hudson. — Return to Auburn. — Mr. Seward's Speech to his Neighbors. Cologne., Septemher 6th. — Out of France — across Belgium — and on the Rhine, all in twelve hours 1 Belgium realizes to the traveller its well-known character for density of population, and i-ctive, inventive industry. It is Avonder- fid how arts, and even freedom, flourish within this little state, which for two thousand years has almost continually been the battle- ground of the ambitions of tl\e great European nations. If we re- member rightly, there are few ] Belgian immigrants in America. As we passed through to Liege and its rural districts, so full of busy activity, contentment, and even gayety, we wondered that there should be any. Bedui, Septeiiiber Sih. — Wc {'.rrivcd horo last evening. "We liave seen of Germany enough to sl\ow that its climate is neither so f];cnial, nor its soil so fertile, nor its resources of forest and mines so rich as those of Southern Alask;v; nevertheless, it is rich and prosiierous through the perseverance of its jicople. It is a political and social vacation at Berlin. The emperor- king and the empress, the princes and B'smarck, arc absent. Baron 166 EUROPE. I I 1 C5 Gerolt, so lon^ the respected and beloved Prussian and German minister at Washington, is now at Berlin, and it is a pleasure to meet him here. Mr. Bancroft met us at the station, and has given us a delight- ful and quiet home at the legation, on the favorite avenue, " Unter den Linden." He enjoys the respect and consideration here which he so eminently deserves. Mr. Bancroft is a distinguished excej)- tion to the rule that great scholars fail of being practical statesmen. As might be expected, the air of Berlin is as triumphant as that of Paris is sad and despondent. We noticed in Paris that the alle- gorical statue of Strasbourg, in the Place de la Concorde^ was cov- ered with mourning weeds. So we must not omit to mention that an allegorical group has been erected here, representing Germany receiving with open arms her returning daughters, Alsace and Lor- raine. The streets of Berlin wear the aspect of a newly-built or modern city. While it has none as fine as Fifth Avenue, there is a uniform solidity and elegance whicli we have not yet attained in the United States. In activity, industry, and trade, Berlin contrasts strongly with Paris in its present condition, as well as with Naples and Florence. The parks arc well shaded and extensive, but less im- posing than those of Vienna, and it would be difficult to decide be- tween the two cities in regard to the general appearance of activity and vivacitv. In one of the streets of Mexico there is this inscription on <i marble tablet: "In this house Humboldt dwelt." Wc are told of a similar inscription on the house he lived in here. We have scarcely accustomed ourselves to think of society in Berlin without the ele- vating and genial presence of the greatest philosopher of our ago. We have had the honor of meeting M. Thilc, the acting Min- ister of Foreign Affairs, Dr. Banke, the venerable historian, and several of the celebrated savants for whom Berlin is so justly dis- tinguished. In the history of civilization there has been nothing more won- derful than the development of the German Empire. Brandenbur"^, the feeblest of perhaps forty inconsiderable states, a state without r> l;k^.J4<^.. J. TRUSSIA. T67 •nssian and German 1 it is a pleasure to i iriven us a dcliglit- >rite avenue, " Unter jideration liere which distinguished excei> rr practical statesmen. fis triumphant as that in Paris that the alle- la Concorde, was cov- omit to mention that epresenting Germany liters, Alsace and Lor- newly-built or modern lue, there is a uniform ,ttamed in the United •lin contrasts strongly as with Naples and jxtensive, but less im- difficult to decide he- appearance of activity this inscription on a elt." We are told of a 3re. We have scarcely berlin without the cle- lilosopher of our age. ^hile, the acting Min- icrable historian, and Berlin is so justly dis- L nothing more won- Inpire. Brandcnburo;, 1 states, a state without numbers, military force, arts, or science, two hundred years ago had the courage to challenge a place among the countries of Europe. ]3y the adoption of a military system, at that time essential to every power, but more rigorous than any other, ancient or modern, by the skilful development of resources, and by the practice of parsimony so great as to provoke ridicule, by constancy in resisting aggression, and boldness in taking advantage of opportunity, this little king- dom of Brandenburg, in the forty-six years of the reign of Frederick the Great, doubled its territory and population, and rose to the attitude of one of the great Continental powers. Harassed, suh- jugated, and ravaged in the Napoleonic wars, Prussia only applied herself all the more devotedly and energetically to the increase of her strength and resources. With a sagacity which has had no prototype, she originated a new philosophy, an original lif.^rature, and schools of nmsic and criticism. With this intellectuu. progress Prussia has had the wisdom to combine moral and social culture, equality of rights, personal freedom, and rigid justice of administra- tion, which have won for her the grateful sympathy and affection of other German states. At least since the time of Frederick, Prussia has practised an eminently wise and just moderation. Content with an attitude always of self-defence, and to wait for provocation, she reserved her strength, until the intolerable preten- sions of Austria required a contest with that power, which resulted in her bringing under her protecting flag, with their consent, the North-German states around her, while she neutralized the South- Gennan states, formerly dependencies of her rival. Nothing in politics is m.ore calmly sublime than the deportment of Prussia when that recent great aggrandizement excited the jeai .is alarna of France. France secretly proposed to favor the extension of North-German jurisdiction over tho South-German states on condi- tion that Prussia would consent that France should absorb Bel- gium. Prussia refused. France then sought offence in the offer of the Spanish Cortes of the throne of that country to a prince of the house of Ilohenzollern. The Prussian Government disavowed, and, when that fjiiled, the prince declined, but the empire of France would have an insult when the original cause of r-omplaint had 768 EUROPE. been removed. So the emperor instructed his minister, who of- fended the dignity of the Prussian sovereign, and was dismissed for it. Then France declared war. Prussia came into a war, the only one, perhaps, of modern times in which the advantages, moral and physical, were combined on the same side — a just cause, a de- fensive position, convenient preparation, and the strongest military power. There is one circumstance in this great event peculiarly gratifying to the United States, and which cannot but prove useful to the world. It seems as if the process of renaissance in any nation begets a sympathy and friendship for the American Repub- lic. "We do not know the secret of the great Frederick's sympathy with the United States, in their Revolution. lie was a capricious man, and had a proclivity for French philosophy and politics, and a dislike for England. "Whatever may have been the cause, he was an admirer of our institutions, and in 178G made with us a treaty, based on an acknowledgment of the highest rights of man. Through all her own vicissitudes and ours, Prussia has adhered to the policy and sentiments of Frederick, in regard to the United States. Prussia was the first of the European powers to join us in a policy of justice and liberality toward Mexico. Prussia was the first of the European states to acknowledge the American principle of freedom of naturalization and denationalization. "With Russia Blie has been a faithful friend, and, like Switzerland, she has en- grafted on her own political system the American principle of gov- ernment by confederation of states. It is a proud thing to see thai; system established by the most powerful of the states on the Euro- pean Continent. It promises nothing less, though perhaps in a distant future, than the abolition of military despotism for main- taining the balance of power. Germany, if her magnanimity shall be equal to her prosperity, will be content hereafter to promote the welfare of mankind, through the arts of peace, rather than to seek greater dominion by war and violence. Tlamhwg, SoptomJjsp ^'■Ith. — Crossing the river Spree, passing pi'ctty Charlottenburg, and reaching the Ilavcl, we leave behind us the suburban cultivation and taste of Berlin, and enter on a IIAM13URG. 769 s minister, wlio of- and wa3 dismissed amc into a war, the . le advantages, moral —a just cause, a dc- le strongest military •cat event peculiarly not but prove useful ■ renaissance in any he American Repub- Fredcrick's sympathy He was a capricious phy and politics, and 3 been the cause, he L786 made with us a lighcst rights of man. »russia has adhered to regard to the United 1 powers to join us in _ico. Prussia was the le American principle zation. With Faissia tzcrland, she has en- ican principle of gov- •oud thing to see thai lie states on the Euro- though perhaps in a despotism for main- cr magnanimity shall hereafter to promote Hpeace, rather than to river Spree, passnig l^cl, we leave behind jrllu, and enter on a plain wheie sand and marsh intermingle. Only Germans could utilize a soil so worthless, but they use it in every way. For cen- turies the writing-world has relied upon these plains for their goose-quills. Of national frontiers, there have been more than enough on this plain. These boundaries have now become merely departmental divisiors of the German Empire. AVe came to the Elbe at Wittenberg, and followed its banks to Hamburg. You realize, on tie moment of arrival at Hamburg, that you are in a free city. No demand of passports, and no custom-house inspection of luggage, no espionage, no intrusive curiosity. Ham- burg is not so majestic as Vienna, so poetic as Venice, so classic as Florence, nor so elegant as Paris, and yet it is a rich and beautiful city, pleasant to look upon. With exquisite art, they have gath- ered the rapid little Alster, no larger than the cast branch of the Potomac at Bladensburg, into pretty crystal lakes, lending a Vene- etian charm to the beautiful palaces and villas of the merchant- princes which crown the shores. And Hamburg has one beauty which even Venice lias not — the beauty of broad and oi-namented lawTis and gardens. But the Germans arc a practical people, and the beauty of Hamburg is its smallest boast. A commercial city, the oldest of Northern Europe, it is the only one that has never known a decline of prestige. The early commerce of the Elbe was lost, like that of the Mediterranean ports, as a consequence of the discoveries of Columbus and Vasco de Gama. But it has been cftectually replaced by a richer and more comprehensive one. The flags of all nations are here, and vessels from all ports crowd the channel. Hamburg's most profitable commerce is that which is at the same time most beneficial to the United States. It is the chief port of emigration. Our glimpses of Germany, though they have been hasty, have modified our o])inion on the character of this emi- o-ration. The German emigrants go, not so much to escape from want, as from a spirit of emulation and improvement. Here, under the api)rehension of inclement" weather on land, ;md winter-storms at sea, v/e reluctantly relinquish our projected journey through Denmark and Sweden to Russia. Our explora- tion of four continents ends to-day. We embark on the steamer m- n M fi t) ?^ ON THE THAMES. 771 Berlin. Her cabins are filled with merchants and their families who two days hence will be undistinguishable in the streets of London, and her decks are crowded with sheep which will be served up to them as real " Soiitiidown mutton." < W^^ On the Thames, Sejptember lUh. — The broad estuary contracts so rapidly as to bring into view the coast outline. Before reach- ing Gravesend, the activity of the shipping impresses you with the conviction that you are approaching the greatest commercial mart of the world. Steamers, pouring out clouds of black smoke, are crossing in what seems a maze. Sailing-vessels, with a foir wind, are passing upward, and vessels with sails furled are towed by tugs down the river. The undulating shores appear, on which trees, orchards, gardens, and lawns, relieve the brown of autumn. On our left is the entrance of the Medway, on our right the harbors of Lea and Thames Haven. Steam seems to be a despot on land as well as on the water. Stationary engines at docks, wharves, manufactories, locomotive-engines hurrying to and from London, meet your eyes everywhere. We passed the Great F astern, at an- chor, in dignified retirement. At the beginning of our war it was suggested to buy this noble vessel. It was a conclusive objection that, although she could carry ten thousand troops, she could not reach a laiiding-place in the insurgent States. Equally impracti- cable for commerce, she proved her adaptation to only one of the enterprises of the day, but that perhaps the noblest of them all — the laying of ocean telegraphic cables. Entering the great marine gate-way of England, every thing seems in strong and cheerful contrast to the countries where we have been. No Indian wigwam, no heathen temple, no mosque, no Catholic or Greek cathedral, no fortification, no grotesque cos- tumes, no half-clad or naked savages, Arabs, serfs, fellahs, or coolies —only on shore a universal manufacture^ and on the water merchant- vessels, bearing the world's exchanges, and ships-of-war to defend and protect them — no despotic nor imperial nor feudal power — the law supreme and equal — London shows, at the first glance, that it is the great heart of human activity. Every enterprise of war or 772 EUROPE. peace, every campaign, canal, and railroad, on either continent of this great globe, derives from London the credit which is its life. The river contracts. Gravesend, Woolwich, White ]3ait Tav- ern, the Dreadnaught, Nelson's flag ship at Trafalgar, all crowd last upon us. And now we give up our keys to the polite custom-hous(! officer, who is content with the pretence of search. And now we leave the steamer, and study, as we drive on, the scenes of low Lon- don life, not the illustrations of Cruikshanlc, but the actual charac- ters portrayed by " Boz." Here is Captain Cuttle, and there is the little wooden midshipman at the door of Solomon Gill's shop. Here is Quilp's figure-head, and here is Susan Nipper, and even little Nell. We go on through the city, we turn up Bishopsgate Street, and pass the Tower and St. Paul's, and so on through crowded Cheapside, Charing Cross, and Covent Garden, and St. James's, until we stop at last at Teuton's Hotel. Who could have expected to sec all London before reaching his lodgings ? London, Septeniber lUh. — As for writing observations upon London and England so familiarly known by tradition, history, poetry, romance, and the drama, to say notLing of travellers' books — as for doing this in the short space of seven days, we are not going to try. Mr. Seward spent the morning in Downing Street with Mr. Plammond, the experienced Under Secretary of State for Forei'^n Affairs, and the no less accomplished Mr. Merivale, Under Secretary for India. With the former he discussed tlie policy of the Western nations in regard to China, and seemed to please the latter by the testimony he bore to the prudent, wise, and beneficent administra- tion of Earl Mayo, Lord Napier, and Sir AVilliam Muir. The various bureaux seem to show that the machinery of ad- ministration in Great Britain has been contrived to secure caution and deliberation at the expense of time ; while in the United States the more simple constitution of the departments gives greater promptness and dispatch, at ihe risk, perhaps, of precipitancy. Wc no longer wonder at the blunder of the British Government in fail ENGLISH RURAL LIFE. 773 iitlicr continent of whicli is its life. White r>ait Tav- 'rafalgar, all crowd )oritc custom-honsti ivcli. And now wc ic scenes of low Lon- it tlic actual clmrac- ittle, and tlicre is the on Gill's shop. Here iper, and even little ) Bisliopss^ate Street, on tlirougli crowded len, and St. James's, ) could have expected 5'^ bv observations upon tradition, history, g of travellers' books wn days, we are not ning Street with Mr. of State for Foreign ivale, Under Secretary policy of the Western case the latter by the beneficent administra- iam Muir. the machinery of ad- ■ived to secure caution le in the United States [tments gives greater , of precipitancy. ^^ c ;h Government in fail ing to stop the Alabama, when we see that no secretary could move in that question until ho had the studied oi)ini()ii of the "law advisers of the crov/n." The Government of the United States has only one Icg.d adviser, the Attorney-General, Avho sits in the Cab- inet, and advises, like other heads of departments, without having questions specially referred to him, except on extraordinary occa- sions. The Council for India, the Council for the Colonies, the Hoard of Trade, and the other administrative councils, are each of them a numerous body, and examine and pronounce upon every ques- tion, before the presiding minister takes action. In this complex machinery the British (.lovernuicnt docs not differ from all tho other governments of Europe. Hence tho tedious and vexatious delays which have brought diplomacy under popular suspicion and reproach. It is only in parts of France, and in England, and the United States, that rural life has an aspect of contentment and happiness. While the dwellinsrs of the rich landholders here immeasurablv sur- pass, in magnificence as well as numbers, the most ambitious rural residences in the United States, the villages and cottages of the peasantry, on the other hand, hold no comparison with the cheerful rural towns and comfortable dwellings of the American larmers. But the minute subdivision and high cultivation of tho fields, to- gether with the general elegance of plantations and gardens, give to the landscape of England an air of repose, comfort, health, and beauty, which, as yet, has not been approached among us. To these attractions the 1; istorlcal associations, as well as those of poetry and romance, impart an additional charm. Wc think the impression that London makes upon an Amer- ican, who sees more of political, commercial, and social activity and energy at home, is one of dulness and monotony, leading him to wish, to escape from it as soon as possible. On the con- trary, when he co.^es to the rural scenes of England, he wishes that he might remai.i there always. Such, at least, were the pass- ing sentiments r^wakeuco in us by our short excursion from Wind- There is a softness of the 60 sor through Eton to Stoke Pogcs. 774 EUROPE. atmosphere which seems not only to harmonize but to bleud with the dark-groen shade of the gardens and lawns, and "All tho air a solemn stillness holds." "Wo close our visit in London with a deep conviction that Eng- lish and Americnn society are approximating to each other — that in the United States we are assuming more of the constancy and con- sistency of the English habit ; while in England there is a manifest tendency to adopt the active and vivacious ways of American life. There are sufticient grounds to explain the jealousies which, rising into antipathies, have until just now alienated the two nations. It was unwise to expect that the British nation would forgive the Revolutionary separation, and would honor her new and rival kin- dred state, so long as the stability and perpetuity of the Federal Union were deemed experimental. They were necessarily deemed experimental, all over the world as well as in the United States, so long as the institution of slavery threatened dissolution. So far from its having been a n)attcr of just surprise that the Southern cause received so much of sympathy and encouragement in tlie aristocratic circles of England, it is rather to be wondered at that it received no more, since it promised nothing less than our inferiority, not only in present prestige but in destiny, to the empire from which we had so boldly separated. Since slavery has ceased to ex- ist throughocit the United States, there can be no new cause of alienation. The two nations must be rivals, not in arms, for neither has need for conquest ; but in science, arts, literature, agriculture, commerce, and navigation, and in the invention which leads to suc- cess in all things. Rivalry of this sort is magnanimous rather than inimical. Moreover, each nation is inclined, by peculiar character and habits, to enterprise and exertion, in different fields from those of the other. On hoard the Steamer Java^ Queenstown^ Sejitemler 2ith. — We are talcing our last look on foreign lands, exactly a year from the day when v/c had our first glimpse of them as we approached the coast of mountain-crowned Japan. How suggestive is barbarous STEAMER PASSENGERS. 775 3 but to blend with and Is." conviction that En<]^- , cacli other— that in e constancy and con- id there is a manifest ays of American hfc. [ilousies wliich, rising , the two nations. It on would forgive the 31- new and rival Idn- ctnity of the Federal re necessarily deemed I the United States, so id dissolution. So fir rise that the Soutbern Bncouragement in the DO wondered at that it ss than our inferiority, to the empire from ivery has ceased to cx- 1 be no new cause of lot in arms, for neither literature, agriculture, ion which leads to snc- rnanimons rather than by peculiar character erent fields from those Septemler 24^A.-We .^actly fi year from the Ins wc approached the \ggcstive is barbarous Japan, rising buoyantly to grasp civilizntion, while Ireland, a civil- ized land, endures the agony of a broken heart! But Ireland is beautiful in her sadness, and the sympathies of mankind assure her of a future. Here, on the Java, wc have a large number of Americans going homo after short visits of business or pleasure in Europe. All classes are represented — merchants, bankers, lawyers, doctors, engineers, professors, clergymen, college-students, students of mu- sic and the fine arts — more inquisitive, more active, more commu- nicative, and less economical in dress and habits than the English. They arc social and polite ; they talk incessantly, and mostly of " business " and American politics, of emigration, education, inter- oceanic railroads, intercontinental telegraphs, civilization, and prog- ress generally. They assert their opinions confidently, and ask, "Why not?" The gentlemen drink champagne as freely as if it were a native beverage , and smoke large " llabanas," whore Euro- peans allow themselves a pipe or a cigarette. The ladies, in unex- ceptionable toilets and full of vivacity, sustain their share in con- versation upon all topics, from the fashions and the opera at Paris to the glaciers of the Alps, the arts of Italy, the literature of Germany, and the politics and religion of all nations, showing no special re- gard for the theories and opinicns of their husbands — indeed, with- out special inquiry, one would hardly know which ot the ladies are married, and to which of the gentlemen. The children are finished little people, who huve been abroad to study the European lan- guages, and have learned them all, with a great deal more. The girls read French novels and the latest English poems, and the boys play at cards and chess. It is only when we are leaving Europe that we realize the iva mensc increase of the foreign travel, intercourse, and trade, of the United States. Steamers plying between European and American ports are crossing the Atlantic everyday in the year. The Cunard line, only one of many, employs twenty steamers in this great trade. The stormy Atlantic navigation has become so common and so certain as to have lost all its terrors. It is a sad reflection that this great navigation is conducted chiefly in foreign instead of I 776 MONTROSE-ON-IIUDSON An.ierican bottoms. But tlie loss of our heretofore prominent slmre in it is one of the penalties of our civil war — a loss which will bo all the sooner retrieved by the liquidation of the national debt and the restoration of the national currency. Meantime, we may be content with the employment of the cnergico of our people in developing resources g-reater than any other nation possesses. Quo of the Cunard proprietors says that the profits of the line arc not derived exclusively or mainly from cabin-passengers, or even from freights, but from tlie transportation of emigrants. We discovered a similar tact in regard to the trade cf the Pociiic. If the anmuil accession of three hundred thousand immigrants, who generally are of the humbler classes of Emope, has already produced a beneficent modification of society and government, then it cann(,t be doubted that this perpetual and always increasing intercourse between America and Europe must exert a strong and iicallhful in- fluence upon European nations. .Doubtless the United States send many frivolous and idle pleasure-seekers abroad, and at tlie cost of much wealth, but they send at the same time vastly more of enter- prising, inventive, and thoughtful inquirers and observer.^; and that cannot be a losing intercourse for us which brings us foreign labor, industry, invention, and shill, in compensation for the annual surplus of our material productions. 3rontrose-on- Hudson, Odolcp 2(7. — A dense fog compelled iis to go to anchor just below Quarantine at three o'clock this morn- ing. In apprising our friends of our coming, wo had rccjucst- cd that they would meet us in the harbor of New Yorlc. The Java had anticipated the expected day of arrival by twenty four liours, so all things favored our desire to avoid the fatigue and delay of landing in the city. On a signal, our friends met us willi, a steam-yacht at our anchorage. The custom-house insjicetor cleared our luggage promptly : the Quarantine oflicer made no hesitation in giving us certificates of health ; the passengers of lIio| Java gave us three cheers on our disembarking. AVe touched at the Battery, and at Jersey (^ity, to take on honnlj Other friends waiting there, and at two o'clock the Henry ISniitlij RETURN HOME. 777 ore prominent share ^ loss which -A' ill bo AC national debt and cantime, wc may ho ie3 of our people in alion possesses. Ono s of the line are not mongers, or even from ants. We discovered acihc. If the annual rrants, who generally s already produced a anient, then it canni.t increasing intercouvi^o itrong and hcallhful in- thc United States scud •oad, and at the cost of iC vastly wore of cntcr- .s and observers i'i>'^ ^vhich l)rings us lorci-j;n |ionsation lor the anuiuil Lnsc fog compelled m lliree o'clock this nioni- luing, we had rc(iU0.t- \v of KcNV Yorlc. The arrival by twenty four avoid the fatigue and lour friendo met us ^villl luBtom-house inspeetov [ntinc officer miu'.o 'ao 1 ; the passengers of tlio vin<^. ■y City, to tahe on bonvdj ':lockthe Henry Smith landed us at Yerplanck's Point, near the house of Frederick \V. Seward, to the surprise of the citizens whose obscure port had never before witnessed a direct arrival from Europe, since the day when llendric'k lludLon first landed there from the Half Moon. At(hitrn, October dfh. — Commodore Vanderbilt's private car, the finest and most comfortable conveyance we have found in the Avhole circuit of the globe, brought us over the New York Central R:\ilroad to our destination here at nine o'clock this evening, ex- actly one year and two months from the day of our departure. We entered the station by its eastern door-way. A crowd of kind friends and neighbors met us at the station, and attended us home, where, in their behalf, Mr. Myers made an appropriate speech of welcome. Mr. Seward replied : " Tlie words which you have spoken to me, and the pressure of the hand which you have given me, are what I knevv I might ex- pect, and yet what I would willingly have avoided. I have taxed uiy neighbors and friends so often and so long that I have begun to feel that, when I go away, 1 would like to slip away from them, and to soften the sadness of parting as the nearest of domestic rela- tions do when they part. And, when I come back, I like to go in upon them by surprise, and meet them in their accustomed walks and ways, rather than to trouble them to come out to greet me. "Still it is what has always happened to me in the course of so manv years. AVhenever I have had occasion to c:o out of Auburn, Bometimes nearer and sometimes farther, sometimes upon errands of duty, sometimes of study, sometimes of labor, sometimes of pub- lic responsibility, and sometimes of private interest, I never waa sullered to part from my friends here without demonstrations of their aflection. *' It has often been my lot to come back among you. Some- times from fields of achievement which have excited, or might ex- cite envy — sometimes defeated and with martiiication, Sv.m'^^^imes with domestic sorrow, which cannot be lightly spoken of, and some- times with public anxiety which could not be expressed — yet I 778 CONCLUSION. have never come home without being received as a neighbor and friend. " Such neighbors deserve all the affection and all the gratitude I can give thein. I can only ask you to believe that, in ail my wanderings far and near, there has not been a day or hour when I have not remembered them, and prayed God that what I might not be able to do for their welfare and happiness, might be done through other agencies. " My friends, we are met together, I trust, not to part again. I have had a long journey, which, in its inception, seemed .j many to be eccentric, but I trust that all my neighbors and friends are now satisfied that it was reasonable. I found that, in returning home to the occupations which were before me, I was expected to enjoy rest from labors and cares which were thought to have been oppressive and severe. I found that at my age, and in my condi- tion of liealth, 'rest was rust;' and nothing remained, to prevent rust, but to keep in motion. I selected the way that would do the least harm, give the least offence, enable me to acquire the iiKtst knowledge, and increase the power, if any remained, to do good. " In the course of my wanderings I have seen, not all the na- tions, but some of the nations, of every race on the earth. I have looked the whole human family in the face, and taken by the hand and conversed with my fellow-man in his lowest degradation and in his highest stage of civilization. I have found no nation so dis- tant, and no race so low, that the character of an American citizen did not secure to me, not merely safety, but also respect, considera- tion, and affection. You may judge, therefore, whether in return- ing to my own country I have less reason to love and honor it. " My friends and neighbors, I have trespassed beyond your patience and my own strength in speaking these words to you. I give you my sincere and heart-felt thanks, and hope to-morrow, and on early future days, to learn that happinesB has been in all jour dwellings, and that all the enterprises in which you are engnged have beeii crowned with success, as I know there will be at all your firesides, during the lojig winter before us, the same affettiou and friendship which have been the great happiness of my life.' I as a neigUbor and md all the gratitude ievc that, in all my day or hour when I hat what I might not li^ht be done through it, not to part again, tion, seemed -j many ibors and friends arc nd that, in returning me, I was expected to I thought to have been age, and in my condi- rcmained, to prevent way that would do the Q to acquire the ni(.>t jmained, to do good, -e seen, not all the i :v on the earth. 1 h^ivo and taken by the hand .west degradation and ■ound no nation so dis- ,f an American citizen [also respect, considcra- ,rc, whether in return- love and honor it. lespasscd beyond your hese words to you. I Id hope to-morrow, aud is has been in all your hich you are engaged |v there will be at all lis, the same affection opiness of my Tde. ' )PE. MAP SHOWING MR. SEWARD'S ROUTE TUROUGH ao lOo VM las B n C J E ^ AFGHANISTAN (^r^^f^K %,. ^ I l '^ \c~^^ Tlcu" ^\'an \ v^ -'<\Q 'KB *r hue ; f c -^- f-fc' J. o ]S" A 0/- ^ £ JV -V /I Blnftaporei lOKNEO I. SEWARD'S ROUTE TUROUGH ASIA, AFRICA, AND EUROPE. JOI Absii Abj'i A. C. Aden Apra A..ba Alasli Alasl^ Albc Albui A!coc Aide Ales Alexa Aloxii AliM Allah Alps, Altai Amcr Amer Araer Ant 01 Apoll Applet Arcot Arcot Arab! Arab Ariad Argyl Il^rDEX. TAGE Absalom, tomb of G48 Abydoa 5G8-573 A. C. Farnham & Co 270 Aden 511-514 Agra 420 A;.bar, Emperor 4:il-432 Alaska 35 Alaska, steamer 245 Albert, Prinee 390 Albuquerque 495 Alcock, Sir Rutherford 152 Alden, Timothy 447 Alexander the Great 434 Alexanilri;i G17-C21 Alexandria:! Library 022 Ali MuradEffendi 580 Allahabad 418, 477 Alps, the 742 Altai Mountains 132 Amenophis III 500 Americans in Egypt 545, 546 American legation at Yeddo 58 ofiicoi" ii. Tui'kisli service 700 officers in Egypt 620 Antonelli, Cardinal 731, 732 Apollo, steamer 050, 057 Appleton, Mr 703 Arcot SG5, 300 Arcot Mission 371 Arabia 610 Arab kind.icss to animals 506 Ariadne, Marryat's vessel 020 Argyll, Duke of. 370 PAGB Armenian merchant 374 Asceticism 485 Asehmann, Captain 744 Ashuelot, U. S. steamer 124, 125, 223 Assouan 001, 002 Athens 079-084 Auburn, departure from 3 Auger, General, kind attentions of. ... 10 Augustine Heard & Co 276 Aurongzebe 448 Austria, remarks on 721, 723 Avery, Mr 29 Azhar, Mosque of 553 Baboo, a Hindoo 382 Bachelor, Captain 79 Bailey, Mr 252, 277 Bancroft, Mr 766 Bandong 323, 328 Regent of 324 Baimermcn, Chinese 158 Banco Begum 435 Barrackpore 398 Barrow, General 419 Batavia 304, 308 Bayard Taylor 447, 451 Beardslcy, Mr., U. S. consul 027 Bedouin Arabs 528 Beebe, Mr 223 Behar, steamer 342 Belgium 765 Bell, Admiral 90 Boilianch 568 780 INDEX. ! (1 Benares 402-J 10 Ma'.KUiijiilrof 405 Bengal, Hay i)f. 378 Benzoni 737 Bcr-;!), Mr 13-1 Beriin 705, 7CG Berne 741 Berthcmy, M 152, 743 Bcrtinatti, Siguor 758 Bethany 050 Bctts lioy 523, 508, 013, 018 Bothlehcm 015-G47 Bcttos, Japa:ics2 foot- boys 74 Beust, Count 720, 721 Bhan Duji 488, 480 Birds, Cak'ulta 387 Birthday, Mr. Sowai'd's scvcntlL'tli. . . . 577 Black Iloio, Calcutta 303 Biacquc B;\v 702, 707 Bliss, Dr 050 Bogue Fort.'! 254 Bom Jesus, Church of, at Goa 490 Bombay 482-484 Book-storo at Yoddo 70 Bosporus, the 097-700 Boston 381 Botaniciil Gardens, Balavia S37 Bradley, General 12 Bramin beggar, a 370 Bridges, litigation about 8 British and ricnc'.i in Cliina 192 British hospitality 478 Brittan, Mi^s 400, 401 Brown, .Jolm P 080-088 Bruce, Sir Frederick 143 Buda-Pcslh 712 Buddha 408 Temple of. 174 Buddhist temple and bonzes in Japan. 47 Buddhi.sts in China 174 Buddhism, Chinese 203, 204 Buitenzorg 3i)9 Bull, Pardon & Co 270 Bulwer, Fir Henry 019, 620 Burne, Major 379 Burlinganip, Anson. . . . 100, 145, 148, 153, 158, 184, 185, 217 Bustced & Co 205 Butler, Mr., a colored American 114 Byculla Club 492 —■ Mr. Seward's speech to 501 PAfiB Cairo • 583, 014 old 540 Calcutta 379, 3S1 California, caprices of civilization 2il Cali])hs, tombs of 551 Calvary 038, 030 Caral)odia 289 Queen of. 201 Canibyscs , 588 Camocns at Goa 4!i0 Campbell, (iovcinor, of Wyoming 12 Canada, icniarKs on Canals of Egypt CC3 Canal, Great Chinese 131, 242 Canton 2.:3, 273 fisheries 275 Cary, Alice .'')(i5 Cascade at Bandong 329 Caste in India 300 Cataracts of the Nile COO Cauvcryrak 3C7 Cavour, Count 740 Caunporc 410 Cedar Raj, ids, an inchoate AVcstcin city 8 Cemetery at Assouan C03 Cesnola collection (OO, (;c7 Ce\lon 340-348 Cliam-PiiigChcw 211 ChceFoo ILO, 121 Cheiif Pacha 015 Cheyenne 10, 11 Chicago, a marvel of l)rogre^:s 7 China, agriculture of 133 its natior.al flag 148 relations of, with Russia 153 decay of 108 materialism in 108 deities of 173 diplomacy of 185, 180 Romardsm in 212 civilization in, Mr. Seward's re- marks on 280-283 Chinese Americans 149 baby 205 banquet 1^0 boudoir 163 cabinet 1 -ir) cariiages IfO civilization 280-283 emigration 275, 270 INDEX. Y81 PAfiE D33, CM nii» 870, oSl ition '^'.> n.-)i Cu8, G;i'.i 'ih'.) 21)1 r),s8 4'.itt aming I'-i r. oo;! 181, ':42 2.-3, 27:5 '. 275 r.d,-) ;!2'.) 300 coo 307 710 \[ '110 itc Western 8 COIi lOC), ('07 .... CdO-B-lS 211 .... I'-O, 121 515 10, II vc:^S ' 133 M8 litsia '"•* loa "_ 1G8 [[ 173 1S5, 180 212 i^'cward's rc- 280-283 "/.'. IIO 205 '"_ 150 [ 103 "_ 1 55 " 100 ...... 280-283 ...... 275,270 PACE I Chinese emperor's summer palace .... 102 f'unei al Ml inns 211 Ion:? nail.-) 1 0-1 returning home 32 tablet hall 172 ToniplG of Buddha 1 74 thcat;ica!3 2';8 wall 188, 198, 202, 203 Chin-Kiang 227, 241 Chin-Lun 220 Chin-Wangti 200 Chi-Tajenand Sun-Tiijcn. . . 109, 113, 18.-), 214, 215 Citadel of Cairo 540 Civilizatio.i of the Mediterranean. 738, 739 Clive, Lord 301, 306 Cockburn, Admiral 358, 487, 510 Cochin China 284-291 Coles, Mr 182 Coliseum, the 723, 730 Cologne 705 Colorado, U. S. steamer, 107, 115, 225, 245, 247 Colored ssttleraont at Chatliam G Colo.-f.si of Thebe.s CS9, 590 Concjrt at Calcutta 390 Concessions, Foreign, in China 107 Confucius 179, ISO Temple of 170 Constantinople, arrival at 085 charms of 089-092 Cook, Captain 021 Copts, the 549 Columbia, ste.amer 340 Comprador, Chinese 240 Cornw.dlis, Lord 301, 302 Council BlulTs 8 Council, Legislative, of Madras 302 Cunningham, General 440 Cyprus 605 Daibutz, statue of Buddha 51 Dak, the 444 Balling, Lord 018 Dancing-girls, Javanese 330, 331 Danube River 718, 719 Darwin, .lis theory 480 Dashur. Pyramids of 012 Day, 1 ss of a 34 Decima, island of 97 PAGK Do Long, minister to Japan, 40, .53, CO, 79, 83 Ddmonico of Ycddo, the 71 Butch stciimor, a 208-303 Dwarfs, Javanese 320, 331, 332 Ddaplaine, Mr 720 Delhi 441-451 Delos 073 Delta of Egypt 016 Do Muntholon 152 Dcndcra, Tcmplo of 575-577 Lcrvishes, dancing 553-555 Detroit 6 Dc Trobriand, General 17 Dogs, Chinese 1 20 Doorga, the monkey-god 415 Drew, Mr 232 Drouyn dc Lhuys, M 758, 759 Dutch colonization 322 Eden, Calcutta 388 Felio, a marvellous 242 Edfou COO arcliitect of OoO Edinburgh, Duke of 225, 345 Egypt, population of 5;'.2, 533 Egyptians, ancient. 023, 024 Egyptian kings, tombs of 592 relics 517,518 E. J. Hage &; Co 276 El-Aksa 043, 044 Elcho 24, 25 Eldri.lge, Mr 404 Elcphaiita 483-491 Elejihantina 001 Elephants at Puttjcala 455, 401 England, rural life in 773 English and Amciiean society 774 Epaulets, influence of 130 Ephesus 008-073 Esnch 597,599 Eugenie, Empress ... . 539, 545 escape of 700-703 Evans, Dr 700-703 Farnham, Mr., U. S. consul, Bombay. . 482 Fellahs of Egypt 505 Finkclstein, Benjamin 027 Firman, Sultan's, to Mr. Scwnrd 633 Fi.-iherics, Korthcrn treaty for 36 Fitz, Mr 235-237 782 INDEX. C \ 3 JMtzgoralJ, l^ir Seymour 482, 484 Floicncc 725, 720 Flotilla, Mr. Scwaid's, on the Pci-lio, 127-129 Flowery Forest Temple, Canton 202 Forbes, Murray 2u 1 Formosa, island of 249 Forte, 11. U. il. ship 858 Fort yt. (ieorge 301 William 400 Franco, conditicjn of 747-749 Franeo-Ciornuin War, near approach of, 83 Franklin 751 Fruser, Mr. and Mr^ 220 Frccn.an, William 10, 80, 81, 140, 144, 209, 225, 405, 400 French affairs 703, 704 Assembly 752-754 and British in China 192 colonization in the East 289 inscription at Philio 008 Furs at Teknig 151 Fusi Yaiua 35, 30 Futtehporc fc^ikra 421, 424 Gallatin Galle, Ceylon Ganges River festival on Geneva Genoa Gcoifroy, M Gcrolt, Baron Ghizoh 559, Gindy House Park, Madras Goa, cxeur.^ion to 492- population of Gobat, Bishop 051 , Golden Island Goshen, land of Govcriimont House, Calcutta Grant, President, at Chicago Mr Great Britain, Government of. . . . 772, Greece, modern Greek architecture 690, costume church language Grevy, M 745 340 403 405 742 739 754 700 013 374 373 ■500 498 055 214 530 386 7 478 773 084 083 074 051 GS4 752 PAOII Grey, Dr 265, 270 Gyaseutus, the 35 Hainan Island 284 Hamburg 708, 709 Hamlin, Dr 095 Hammond, Mr 772 Han River 234 Han-Kow 234 Han-Yan 235, 237 Harem of the Khedive h"A, 555-557 of U. S. vice-consul at Thebes. . . 010 Hart, Robert 213, 214 Hastings, Mr., Mr. Seward's old fritnd, 28 Hatason, Queen 587, 594 Hawes, Captain 127, 223 Hay, Mrs C50 Ilcber, Bishop 357 Helena, Empress 037,039 Hcliopolis 544 Herodotus 543 H. Fogg k Co 270 Himalayas, first view of 453 a glance at 471 Hindoo girls' sohool, Madras .... 354, 375 names 356 tenderness lor animals 480 Hiogo 80, 88 Hoang-ho, mouth of 117 Holy Scpukhre, Church of (135-037 Ilonan Temple 201 Hong Kong 249-252 gamblers 277 Ilcogly River 378 Horses, Japanese care of 70 Horsford, Captain 453, 455, 405 Hue, Falhcr 235 Hughes, Archbishop 734 Ilumayoon 444, 447 Humboldt 7(JG Hungary 712-718 IliU'dwar 453 Ilyden 188 Idol-worship, folly of 613, 014 India, secret of its dependence 357 goveinment 359 caste 300 discontent with English rule .... 3P5 finances of 304 scenery 403 INDEX. 783 PAOH 255, 270 35 284 " G95 '"'... 772 2^4 "' 234 235, 2;i7 5;M, 555-557 It Thebes... CIO 213, 214 I's old fiiaid, 28 587, 594 ....... 127,223 "" C50 ' "/. ii57 ...... . C37, 039 "" 544 543 "_ 27t> ' ' 453 **'"'. 471 xiras .... 354, 375 , 35G uals -IS^'^ 80, 88 ." 117 of ('io5-637 * 201 249-252 ■".' 277 " 378 of ''^ .. 453, 455,405 235 ......••••• "''^^ "[ 414,447 " "_ TOG 712-718 ■■'" 453 ■"''"", 188 613,014 mcndcnec 357 359 300 Enslish rule .... 385 ■^ 394 . . 403 PAliB India, opium 404 history 443, 444 Mr. Seward's romaiks on leav- in;,' 500-510 Indians, destiny of 25 Inhind S.'u of Japan 94 IntcvpretLT, Japanese 02 lsht:il:)as'.ii, Mr 79, 83 Island, a floatinjr 301 Isles of Greece, the 073 Ismailia 523-527 Ismail Pacha, Khedive of Kj^ypt. 520, 557 Israelites passage of the Red >Sea, 521, 522 Italy 724-741 Jacobs, Mr 379 Jade, Cliiiieso 200 Jalla 025-027 Japan, coast of 35 population of 40 "concession" to foreigners in. . . 40 people of 40, 49 costumes 42 barbers 42 gatliering of crops 47 laws about trees 47 tea-houses 48 history of 50-59 Foreign Ollicc 59 artisans 74 especial reasons for prudence. . . 86 Christianity in 98, 09 society and civilization 99, 104 Japanese ambassadors to the United Sratcs, tlicir fate 7.'^ travellers 2S4 Java 304, 344 populousnoss of 308 scenery 310 government 311 climate 313 vegetation 314 birds 314 frjit 310 agriculture 319 Dutcli management of 322, 323, 338, 340 steamer . . 774, 775 Jay, John 72 J Johanara, tomb of 4 ,8 Jejcebhoy, Sir Jamsctjce 4 S3 Jerusalem 029-055 population of 047 Jesuits in China 155 Jewell, Mr 295 Mr., U. S. consul at I'enang 342 Jew, an American 049 Jews of Jerusalem 051-055 Jews' wailing-place 052 Jiddah 619 Jubbulpoor 478 Ji'ggernaut, car of 370 Jugglers, Hindoo 402, 403 Jumna, banks of the 471 Musjid, the 418, 449 Junk, Chinese 119 KaH Ghaut 391 iCalka 473, 470 Kamakula, ancient capital of Japan. . 50 Kanagawa, excursion to 48 Kang, Chinese 197 Kang-Ili, Chinese emperor 155 Karnak 578-583 colunms at 584 Kcnneh Oil Khedive of Egypt 520, 5;!l-r'33, 013-015, 017 Khedive's yacht 021 Kiahta 101 Kiainil Pacha 009, 702-704 Kiamil, Princess 703, 704 Kincob, mamifacturo of 415 Kinder, Captain 93 King Cotton 438 ! King, Gincral 12 ' Kiiapp, Chark.' 523 Kossuih 717, 718 Kootub Minar, the 414, 445 Kublai-Khan 182 Ku-Kiang '232, 241 Kuiig, Prince 1 57 letter from 215 interview with 210-220 Kussowlce 473-475' Laboulayc, M 220, 700 Larnica 006 Laurens, Henry 302 Lebanon 057 Lc-ming-Che, Taou-tai of Ilan-Kow . . . 245 Lcsscps, M 524, 525, 527 784 INDEX. e 2 PAOB Lcvaiitino Ptcamcr 025 Lincoln, Mf 301 Lion-wliclpH 378 I.iulc Orphan blaiul 231 Little Stoi k Pagoda 23() London 772 Louis XIV 748 Louise, .Sister 212 Low, Mr., Ml, 111, 1 Ui, 152, 153, l,-,0, 101, 181, ISO, 218, 221 Low, Mrs 210 Lowe, Mr 321 Loyola, Ignatius 155, 490 Luiknow 419 Ludlow Castle 441, 451 Luke, tonilj of 009 Luxor 578, 680-582, 010 Lydda 028 Lyons, Lord 750 Madras 353 surf at 377 Mahmoud of Ohuznec 423 Cmal 017 Major, Captain 496 Malacca, Straits of 209, 343 Malays 300-3U2, 839 JIaineluke.', weapons of 640 Mandarin precession, a 108 Manguin, Mr. and Mr.-s 99 Manoekjco Cursotjcc 484 Marco Polo 873 Marictte Bey 542, 548, 008 Marmora, Sea of 084 Marryat'3 ship Ariadne 020 Marsii, Mr 725 Martin, Dr 210, 219, 220 Malaria 545 Mayo, Countess of 379 Earl 379, 381, 395 death of, note 477 McAlistL>r, Mr 379 MeAlpinc, W. J 707 Medecnot Ilaboo 691, 590, 599 Mediterranean Hotel 032 Meorut 452 Mcnmnn 590 Temple of 670 Memphis 012, 013 Mcncs 571 Mcrcicr, Ilcnri, M 758 PAOI Merivale, Mr 772 Middkton, Mr 1 28, 209 Mikado, ihe 50-59 palace of the 60 Mr. Seward's audience with. . . 79-84 Ming tombs, China 200 Miracle ut (Joa 497 Missionaries, American 31 at Peking 221 Mogul Serai 405 Mobanuned Tauplnk 546 Mongolians, the 202 Monkey, a tip[)ling 507 Monkeys, thieving, their malice 481 Moniagu, Lady Mary Wortlcy, letters of 637 Monlholon, M 758 Montrc8c-on-lludson 770 Mornions, The 18, 19 Mormon jiolygamy 22, 23 Tabernacle 19 Mosque of Meheniet Ali 517 Pearl 4.:8 Mount of Olives, mosque on 049 Muir, Lady 419 Sir William 418 Mule, an excited 478 Music, Hindoo 303, 8C4 Mueician, a Japanese 72 Myer, tiovernor-Gcncral of Java . 314, 818 Myt-Kahyneh 013 Nagasaki 93, 90, 98 Names, historical and geographical. . . 8 Nanking 228 Naii-Kow, China 195 Pass 190, 200 Napier, Captain o&3 Lady 854 Lord 353, 3u4 Naples 788 Napoleon 1 748 Nautch-girls 870, 407 Necker 745 Nectanebus COl Nedcriandcn, Koningin der 298, 299 Neilgherry Mountains SCO Nerbudda, a night-voyage on the 470 New York, arrival at 770 Western 4 Niagara Falls 4 INDEX. 785 TAflK in 128, 209 50-r.'.) m with... 711-81 2t)0 ". 4117 \\ ;ii 221 405 ' 545 202 507 il'icc 481 tky, letters 587 '[. 758 770 18, 19 22, 23 19 547 [ 4:3 \n'. <11'J 419 418 478 303, 8C4 72 fjava. 314,318 013 .... 93, 96, 98 jgrapWical ... 8 228 195 190, 200 3ij3 854 353, 854 " 788 "'".". 743 370, 407 ". .'. '745 col 1 'yea "Mfl (lev "^""i -• ' 8CG e on the 479 770 " " 4 .. 4 Nile. tliP C02-015 ealiuai't-i of OOO native mode of crossing 009 Nippon-!) IS, tlio fanious luid^ji' 00-08 NonK'nciaturo of mountain sceneiy. . 15 Noubar Pael\a 545 Noiirnialial, tlio liglit of tlio barom . . . 485 Nubians 0O2 Obclisic quarry at .\?souan 00 1 Ocean naniiei-Tcni])le, Canton 201 <)lj,M, Queen of (iioeee 084 Oliphant k Co 270 OaialiM, rliaractt-rs at 8-10 Omar, AIo.<ciuc of 040-044 On, tity of 544 Opium in Inilia 404 Opiufn-smo'.ving in Cliina 208 Ord, Governor of Pcnang 342 Orsova 7, 03 Osaka 88, 90-93 Oude, King of 895 Prince of 395, 397 Pacha at Cairo, conversation witli . 015, 010 Pacific mail line stcamcis 31 Pacific Ocean ol Page, Mr., U. S. consul at Port Said. . 022 Pagodas, Ciiineso 130 Palace, Imperial, at Delhi 449, 450 New, at Constantinople 7uo, 7ol Palcsline, impressions of 058, 005 population of 002 iiivalcrs of 003 rcligicns of 059 women of 002 tcgeneration of 004 improvement in 005 missions in 005 telegraphs and railroads in 005 Palikao, battle of 140 Panch Mahal, the 427, 429 Pariahs 370 Parij 747 Parker, Theodoic, tomb of 727 Parkes, Sir Harry, British minister to Japan 00, 194 Parsees, the 484-4S7 Par.son?, Major 475 Passe igers on steamer Java 775 Passports 748 Patna 403 CO pAna Po-eher-Ico. Oulf of 117-121, 224 Pci-ho, Uivcr 123, 124 Peking, first sight of 141 Mr. Seward's entrance into 143 uall of. 140 foreign population of 149, 151 Legations at 151-153 palace in 1 80 birds in 181 Pells, Mr 305, 3U7, 811 Peimng, island of 343 Pepin, King 743 Peruvian burk in Java , 883 Pcsth 714-710 Pharos 021 Phihc G16-0O8 Philippine l.-lands 295 Pini'nix, the Arabian 544 Photograidicr, a Chinese 100 Pig or.-Knglish 223 Pilate, palace of C40, 051 lillMjury, Mr 121 Pinlai-rio 472-470 FlyniDut'i Ilcek, Ftcamer 2i:0, 245 Poet, a Portuguese, at Goa 500 Poct^ Chinese 100 Point de Galle 840 PolitiLMans at Omaha 9 Polvgamy in Kgypt and Utah. . . . 5:, 7, r,88 Pompoy's I'illar 019, 020 Pondii horry 349 Poon-ling-gua's villa 1105, 200 Pope Pius IX 732, 730 Porccl.iin Tower, the 229 Port Said 021,022 Portuguese Empire 499 courtesy f>00 settlement, Madras 872 Po-Yang, Lake 281 Prawiro da Kcdya 321 Preachers on steamer Cliiiia 31 Pri;nc -minister, Japanese 81 Provence, steamer 2R4 Prussia, hist irieal sketch of 700, 707 Ptolemy Philopnter COO Pulpit Rock 16 Pumpclly, Mr 190 Putte-ala 454, 470 Maharajah of 388, 453, 400-4C2 Prince of 407 Pyramids, the 539, 543 T86 INDEX. Quarries at Assouan. c 2 3 P! M :^: 8 1 nil Radhe, Adhrpatlie RuIicIlmi, Sakli-, Javanese prince Railway, East India 403, Madras and Arcot Ralsto Mr., entertainment by Ramcscy II sa- cop'.'.agus of tomb of. Rarnesis III , temple of Ramlel) G27, Randall, A. W 4, 05, 115, Ranepot 360, Rti. I.o, Dr Rc::ii, Mr Red Jacket, anecdote of , Red Sea, ihc 519- Relifucs, Baron, German minister at Pekin,^' Rcmusat, M Reno Rho-lali 500, Ribcrio, a Portuguese i^oct Rico j'lJvation in India I'islc} , ilaii&on A Mis.- 113, Robci \ Collc.uc Cn5, RoclK'')it, Count, Frrucli minister at PAGE . 004 , 823 , 338 404 305 28 672 587 033 593 595 028 220 307 700 703 31 522 152 752 20 Oil 500 3GS 4 141 090 r i: Rocky Mountains, uses of Rodgcrs, Admiral 107, 110, 115, 12;), 121, 127, 155, 100, 203, 209, 218, 219, Rodman, M:- 128, Romanism in China 212, Rome 13 225 209 2i:! -738 154 Rose, Mr 232, 211 022 714 55 153 152 308 Cliurdi of, in China Rosctta RubU'o, M Russell & CoTpany 107, 251, Russia, relations with China Russian minister at Peking 151, Rvots Pacranirnt;;, society of. 27 Siiid Pacha 524 Saigon city 287, 288 River, mouth of 2S0 PAOB Saint Thomas, apostle 510 Sakkara, Pyramid of 500, 002 Saladin 540 Salina, Augusta 590 Salt Lake city 17 San Francisco £8-30 Sao Januario, Viscount do 495 Sarnath, Buddhist ruins at -110 Sawa, Japanese Minister of Foreign Af- fairs 015, 017, 019 Science, Hall of, at Peking 154 Scliofield, General. . 29 SchuKg Ilao, Chinese ambassador 750 Scudder, missionary 371 Secundra 422, 433 Sentpr, Mr. , 88 Separation, a settlement on the Rocky Mountains 13 Septimus Severus 590 Seraglio 093 Scram(ioro 399 Server Pacha 088 Setis 572,585 Seven Sleepers, tl'.e 009 Seward, Mr., declines Jajanesc invita- tion to a great banquet 53 his interview with Japanese for- eign minister ('1-C5 gives audience at U. S. consulate. 73 audience witli Mikado 79 opinions on Franco 115, 110 meets an acquaintance on the Co- lorado 120 iriendly reception at Tung-Chow, I3'J entrance into Peking 143 audience of imperial cabinet. . . . 155 age 159 views on the Gicat Wall of China, 203, 204 discussion with Sir. Drev/ tn Chi- nc.-c afiUirs 2.'i2 as.-ault on, at IL.n-Kow 210 speech at Kong-Kong 277, 279 halfway round the woild G4"i remarks on linane.'S of India. . . . 3'. 4 speech at Ben, bay 5ol remarks on India 5lKl-51i» scventictli birthday 577 conversation with a pacha at C.;i- ro 015,010 remarks on ancient Egyptians, 023, 024 INDEX. 787 TAQB 510 500, C02 u4G 590 \[[[ 17 28-30 " 105 '" " "' 110 rorcign Af- . . 015, 017, C.19 r 154 '"'_ 29 iissaJor 750 U71 ....... 42:, 433 " 88 nthc IJolIcv 13 ' " _ 590 ' '_ 093 _"/. " 399 ' ' ' CSS ........ 57-2,585 \ 009 I ancsc invUu- ', 53 Japanese foi- Cl-fiS F. consuUUc. 73 do '■•• 115, 110 nco on the Co- 120 \i Tung-Chow, 139 „jr 143 il cabinet l')'"^ 159 V\'all of China, 20;;, 204 Drew en Chi- 232 Kmv ".".'. '...•• -1" ,nc '.i'T, U79 > woiUl "'■*"' s of India.... ■■'■'^ 501 500-510 ,. 577 a pacha at C:\\- 015, 010 I i:-yplians, 023, 0'24 PAGE 1 Seward, Mr., firman from the Sultan. . 033 impressions of Palestine . . . 068, COS reception at Constantinople 085 interview with the Turkish Sultan, 706, 708 remarks on Turkey 709-711 reception at Vienna 720 dinn.-r with M. Thiers 755-758 in Downing Street 772 return home 777 speech at Aul)urn 777, 778 (i. F., consul 107, 120, 128, 209 Olive Kisley 4 Shah Jchan.. . . ." 435, 437, 438 i Shan-Tung, steamer ... 115, 127, 223, 224 Shanghai 105, 110-113, 224 Promontory 117, 120 Sharon 025 Shcba, the tombs of the Tycoons 05 Sheik, Selim Cliisti .' 420, 427 Sheii-Tnjcn, a Chinese poet 22o Sliopard, Mr., U. S. consul at Yeddo. 4ii, 79 Sliermaii, City of . . 13 Sliisliak, King 587 Slioshones, remnant of 25 Shumsli-nodccti-Altamsh 440 Sierra Nevada, ascent and descent of, 20, 27 Silas E. Ruriows & Co 270 Silver I.-^lind 244 Sinnnons, Mrs 226 Singapore 295-298 steamer 34 1 Siout 500 Siva, Temple of. 392 Sjiandjioer, J.iva 320 Slavery, conservation of. 27 Smith, Archer &, Co., China merchants, 255, 270 Smith, Dr 780 Smithers, Mr 073 Smuggling in Ciiina 254 Smyrna 007 Socotra 510 Somnath, gates of. 423 Soum il, ur. at Aden 515 Southern Cross, the Oil Sphinx, the 541, 542 Sta'mplli, Mr 715 Star of Iiidi 1, order of 390 States, new, influence of 12 Steamer America, meeting on the 32 Steamer China 31 Stewart, U. S. consul at lliogo 80 Stone, Mrs 534 Story's Cleopatra and Sibyl 737 Strabo 592 Suez 522 Canal 523-527 Oil 088 012 Sugar of Kgypt Sultan, Abdul Aziz 087, Pacha 558, 010- Turkish, Mr. Seward's ii.tcrview with 700- Sumatra 299, Sunda, Straits ol'. Surabaya 818, Susa Swinging round the circle Swiss President Switzerland, polities of 744- a miniature America Syra 073, Synagogue, American Taj-Mahal 4''!5, Taku 122, Tankoeban volcano Templars, Knighis 721, Temple of Agriculture of Heaven of the (ircat lid!, Cliina Sir Richard 393, Tcnno, sec Mikado. Thames River Tiicbcs 57S-5F5, 590, Thcodosius, edict of Thiers, Mailamc President 75i: (i).). Thile, M Thomas, Saint Thoutmosis II. and III Thou«and-milc tree Tien-Tsien, massacre at 110, 1 14, 124, 125, 129, 131, 140, 212, 213, Tigh, Major 453, Tildcn, Captain Timber from Corea Tinos Tokiiidi), the Jaiiiini'so highway Tombs, Chinese, .Mr. Seward's remarks on Ming, Ciiina. 708 300 302 320 740 385 744 •746 744 074 053 430 123 833 725 170 109 191 440 771 010 007 755 750 700 372 594 16 22"' 470 137 131 073 48 207 206 783 INDEX. PAGE Townscnd House, Ogden 17 Travancorc, steamer 217 Tuckcrmaii, Mr., U. S. ininit^tjr to Greece 082 Tung-Chow V^l, \oo, 1^9, 222 Tung-Lu 231 Tung-T:ijcn, a Chinese poet 220 Turkey, observations on 7<.9-722 Turkish women .' G98 Tycoon, the Japanese 58, 92 Tycoons, tombs of, at Shcba 05 UmbalUi 452, -153 United States, progress of trade 775 Universalists, Lincoln's story of 513 Upton, Mr 743 Utah, a wonderful success 23 Valide. Princes* 533, 534, 015 Van Dvck, Dr 050 Van Valkenburgli, U. S. minister to Japan 88, 153 Vaina 7<!8 Vasco do Gama 373 Venice 724 Ver.oRla, Visconti 737 Verplanek's J'oinf 777 Versailles 751 Vesuvius 738 Via Dolorcsa 040 Victor Emmanuel 737, 740 Vienna 719 Vindhya Mountains 478 Visigapatam, M iharajah of 4(I0 Vlangally, General 31, 140, 151, 220 Wade, Mr. and Mr.? 152 Wady, a 530 Wahsateh Mountains 15, 10 Walsh, Mr 40,80, 81 a hall at his house 77 Wang, Ctptain 127, 128 Wan-Slang 157, 158, 183-180 Warden, Mr 115, 140, 240 Mr;; 110, 114 Wa-hburne, Mr 750, 703 Weber Canon 10 River 10 Webster and Adams, anecdote of ... . 139 PAGB Welti, Mr 744 Wessiier, Mif^s 5ii5 Westropp, Sir M. IJ 501 Whampoa '.; 54 Wheal on, Chinese trai;slation of 183 Wheeler, Lieutenant 445 Williams, Dr HO, 184 Wilson, Captain C44 Winslow, Admiral, hero of the Kcar- saigc 20 Women, Chinese, abasement of 247 Women, Turkish 098 Wood, Mr 071 Woolsey, Dr., daughters of C57 Woosung 105, 115, 225 Wu-Chang 285-237, 239 Wurtz, Mr 725 Wyoming, Territory of. 12 Xavicr, St. Francis 98, 490, 497 Yang Fang, a Chinese pawnbroker. . . . 102 smoking-room 100 wife 1C3 Yang-tse 244 Yang-tse-kiang River 220-229 Yang-tsc-kiang, mouth of; 1 15, 1 10 Yeddo bS visit to 53 how built C5 artisans, artists, and manufac- turers 74 bay of, .storm in 54, 55 Yellow Sea 105, 115, 110 Yokohama, arrival at 39 bay of 39 Young, IJrigham 19-22, 24 Colonel <41,4M Mr 295, 298 Yousscf and his donkey 599 Yucn-Min-Vucn, China 192-195 Yung-Lo, Chinese emperor. . 191, 207, £08 Y'ussef EITendi 040 Zachariah, tomb of 048 Zenana mission 4(iO, 401 Zeminilars !>''"'' Zuaking 241 TU E END. rAGB 744 \ DOS *_ 501 ',54 on of 1^'^ 445 ..... 140, 184 " C44 ,f the Kcui'- 20 nt of! !'.'... 247 098 ....... 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