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REPORTS AND JOURNALS REL.VTINfl TO THE GOVERNMENT EXPLORATION OF TOE COUNTRY lYINO BETWEEN THE SHUSWAP AND OKANAGAN LAKES AND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. VICTOBIA, B. 0., FBINTID AT TBI OOVXBHUVNT PBIimNO OtnOl. CONTENTS. 1.— JFr. Mobebly to CriiEP Commissioner of Lands and Works '"^"f" 2— Mb. Tubnbuli, to Mr. MoBEiav ,.' ;i— i)o. Do. Do !!!!!........!.!.!.!!!!"!. .1 4. — Mr. Mobebia's JoiRNAi, ,",' 5— Mtt. TLRNBULi,':i Journal "o <).— M;i. Howell's Journal ..."!.". o- COLUMniA RIVER EXPLORATION^, 1866. No. 1. — Mr. Moberly to Chief Commissionek ok Lands and Works. Now WoBtrainator, November 16th, 1866. 'Sir,— III nccordaiico with yonr letter of instructions, dateil March 26th, 1866, (lirectinloration and construction of trails in the Columbia "River District, &c., &c.," I loft New Westminster on' the 28th of the same month, with tlio party appointed t^ accompany me, and proceeded without delay to the foot of Little Shuswap Lake, inspecting the Savona's Ferry Waggon Road and other public works on my way up. At this point my party was detained for a short time, the lake still being covered with ice. On the return of the boat that brought most of my party up from Kamloops, to which place she had returned for another load, wo started for Seymour; but on reaching a poiut about 15 miles bolow that town, we were again obliged to stop, as the N. W". arm of the Great Shuswap Lake was completely blocked up with ice. After the delay of a few days I, however, succeeded in luring two canoes with which we broke a passage through the ico, and readied Scynioi r on the 19th of April. On my arrival tliere, I found we had started much too early in the season, as the snow was still deep in the woods, even m the vicinity of the Shuswap Lake. I at once took steps to obtain the best and earliest information from tlio Colunibia River, in order to ascertain when I would be able to commence operations on the trail from Kirby's Landing to French Creek. On the 24tli of Apinl, I sent Mr. Hick out on the trail with a party to complete the two bridges left unfinished the previous year, and at the same time instructed liim to increase his party and put in the necessary corduroys as soon as it would be possible to get to work. At that time, owing to the snow, it would have been a waste of money to atiompt to put them in. The rest of my party, with the exception of Mr. Lay ton, I employed on the survey of the town site at Seymour. A portion of the Hujiplies contracted for by you to be delivered at Seymour for my use having arrived, I endeavoured to make arrangeincnts to have them packed to the Columbia, but found that the few white men and Indians then at Seymour, willing to pack, asked Piicli exorbitant rates tiiat it was quite out of the question to employ them; I thereforo sent Mr. Lay ton back to Lytton to employ a gang of luciians by the mouth, to pack for me betwocii Shuswap Lake and the Columbia River. Having completed the survey of the town site on the 3rd of May, I l^ft with the rest of my party on the 4th, at noon, and reached the Columbia ou the 9th, at 9 a.m., having laid over a day (Sunday) at the 21 mile house, to rest the men that were packing my supplies and instruments. Mr. Turnbull took the latitude of this point, which ho made 51° 23' 45" N. We found there was but little snow on the trail from Seymour to a point about six miles from it, but from that point the snow extended all the distance tc the Colunibia River, varying from two to four feet on the low ground, and on tiio mountain from six to fifteen feet. The day after I readied Kirby's Landing, on the Columbia River, I sent Messrs. Uowell and Perry down to the pass, via Eagle River, explored by mo last year, with orders to cross the divide and ascertain if there was any snow on it. They crossed that divide on the 12th of Ma^-, and reported that there was not theu any snow on it, and that it was their opinion it had disappeared there at least a month before their arrival. The day after sendi: ' off Messrs. Uowell and Perry, I left, with Mr. Turnbull, to locate a line for a trail from Kirby's Landing to French Creek. We were employed on this work until the 21st of May, on which date we returned to La Porte (the steamboat landing at the present head of navigation on the Columbia I COLUMBIA RIVEU EXl'LOUATION, 1800. Klvcr); niul on the 24tl» I commenced the work of ojionin^ a trail nlong the ubovo line, with a pnrty of al)out tliirty men, nndor Mr. Ilowoli uh foromnn. Prior to tiuH, I had been nreontly prcuBod on all Hides to dear awny the snow on tbo trail between Shuswap Lake and the Columbia Uiver, to enable pack unimaU to got across. liopresontutionR and roports were made to mo, and circnlatod, of the wildest description, in order to iuunce mo to undertake tliis work. Having eatistied myself that "the rush" into the mines of French and MoCulloch Creeks had, from various causes, been brought about several months toi> early in the vear, and foreseeing the disastrous ctlect tlio reaction would have on tiie revenue oi' the country, I considered it my duty to curtail the expenditure un much as possible, and, theroforo, decided not to clear away the snow, which work would then have uccossarily required a very largo outlay of money, without any corresponding advantage either to the merchants, the miners, or the Government. It was always mv endeavour to Jintit the expenditure on the ditforent public works, of which I nad cliarge, to such a sum that, together with all the expenses of the Gold Commissioners and other public olHcors in the Columbia and Kootenay Districts, it should not exceed the local revenue of the whole district. I was well uworo of the hopes placed by the merchants and others on these mines, and the position in which many of them stood at that time, and their natural anxiety to participate in what they thought was a good trade, and which they were Afraid was then being monopoli/.ed by the ColviUo merchants, into whose haixls thoy imagined all the gold then supposed to be coming out of these mines was going. It was quite true there was then a largo demand for provisions and todls at the mines, but it was almost entirely by men who had iioither money, claims, nor oredit, and who, even if thcv did remain there, would not in all probability bo able to reap a cotura for their labour until the oi\d of August. For tlie abovo reasons, ColviUo morchants who had goods nt La 1 orto then would not forward them to the mines ; and others who liad largo supplies ready to ship from Colville, by the etoamer Forty-uiuo, delayed forwarding until they saw a probability of getting some money from tho men they might give credit to. I feel satisiied that had the parties who were most pressing to have tho snow cleared away been as well acquainted with tho true state of atiairs at tho mines as I was, they never would huvo asked tor that work. Such was tho state of afluirs on the Columbia River, during tho month of May and tho early part of Juno; and hundreds of men who had hurried up to tho minus without either money or supplien, were forced to leave for Colville or Shuswap Loko, without even striking a blow with a pick at tho mines, and carrying with them tho gloomy accounts that are generally so freely given by di8a]>pointca gold- soekcrs. Tho hot weather and heavy rains wo had during the time I was occupied in laying out and comniciicii;g the work on the trail iietwoen Kirby's Landing ami French Creek, cuubcd the snow on tho mountain between Seymour and the Columbia lliver to molt rapidly. I therefore left tho road party working on l<'rench Crock *ri<,il, on the 25th of Jlav, and returned to examine the snow on that moun- tain, and also to see how Mr. iru k was getting on with his work on tho trail. I found ho had the trail put in order to a point about 12 miles from the Cohimbia. I also found the snow luul melted away very much since I la.st passed over it; and, as I received, on my way to Mr. llick's camp, authority to expend a further sum on this tr./!, I next day commenced cutting a road through tho snow, with a jiarty of about seventy men. The men employed oi\ this work nearly all got snow blind, and the work was from that cause miicli delayed, and rendered more expensive than it would otherwise have been. I, however, managed to get tho lirst train, with a load oi' my goods, over tv) t!ic Columbia Kivcr, on the 13th June. It was some days after this that others began to bring goods over. By this time, those who had been most urgent to iiavc tho work mulertakon bail learnt the true state of things at the mines, and knew if thoy did take their supplies in that they had little chance to sell them, unless thoy did so on credit. Having seen the above work in full ojicration, I returned to tho road party on the French Creek trail, and ptit on another party at tho upper end of it. 1 then had a town laid out at French Creek, apian and report of which I forwarded to you last June; and immediately atlcrwards returned again to Layton's camp, where I mot you on tho 9th June. On my return to the Columbia River, I scut Mr. Turnbull to locate a lino for a road through the Eagle Pa«s. As his Report, &c., which I have already forwarded to you, more than bears out the description of this pass given in my Report last year, it is uunoccssary for me to revert to it. From the 12th to the 28th of Juno, I was continually engaged on tho dillcrent trails, completing and closing tho work, discharging the men, and forw-i-rding surplus stores to tho Columbia River. On tho last date, the valley of the Columbia River, in the neighbourhood of Kirby's Landing, was visited by n very severe storm, which tilled tho trail for several miles with one mass of fallen timber, com- COLUMBIA RRER EXPLORATIOif, 180C. 8 on then to lorc or a del liiHt gftrd to grades aiul construction, is tJio best mndo trail I have jet seen iu the (/olony. It is true bridges are rcqwirod over the Salmon, the plotcly ctitting oft" nil comniunicntion by Tm ■ stnuiins; the Columbia, the '•"•■( flowing through the south-westerly portion of the Atliobasca Pass, and the Canuo ivivcr, is, I ihink, dcBtincd ti> become a point of mw.ii injpor- taiico. Iff trail of some tiiirtj'-five or forty miles in length shonld bo eonstructod from opoi.i on tlie present trail, which passes near the mouth of Gold Uivcr, to tho Boat Encampment, it would connect with tho old Hudson Bay Company's horso trail that terminates at tho latter point, and thus open a lino for horse travel da the Athabasca Pass, from the valley of the Eraser to that of the Saskatchewan. With the union of tho Colonics of British Columbia ond Voiicouvor J.Hland, and also the confederation of the other British North American ^/ulonios iu almost inimodiato prospect, it must be the desire of nil those wishing British interests to prosper iu North America, to sco a communication opened that will brin^ the.io Colonies into more immediate conucction with those tlioy are destined ultimately to bo so intimately connected with, particularly when it is to the interest of both to attain that object. In looking fonvard to the opening of a through line of rood to tho Saskatchewan, south ot the Leather Pass, it now only remains to decide which of th.o several passes through the Rocky Mountains, south of tho Boat Encampment, should ho adopted. As the detcrni'imtion of this pass cou'd not bo well decided upon with- out carrying tho explorations beyond the cantcrlv boundary of British Columbia, and as it is a matter that affects the Colonies to tho eastward of the Rocky Moun- tains, as well as this one, it would probably be desirable that in deciding on a pass, that the Government of those Colonies should have a representjitivo there, as well 08 the Government of this Colony, and that their explorations of tho diflcrcnt posses be made at the same time. As I presume tho Government are in possession of much more detailed informa- tion from the reports of t]io Chief Gold Comiuissioncr, with regard to the mines of Wild Horse, French, and McCnlloch's Creeks, than I can give, it is unnccesaary for mo to give a report of them hero. From what I hnvo seen of tho formation of the country this year, and also of tho prospects now obtained, I fcol more conduced than I was last year, that the quortz mining in the Big Bend will bo most extensive, but it will take time to develop it. The first quan:. vein iu this district was discovered on McCulloch's Creek, about the Ist of August last, by Mr. Wm. Hick. Other veins of a rich character have since been prospected in the tt.'^io locality. Tho universal want of means, tho depression caused by tho failure ofUic early rush into these mines, and tho extremely difHcult nature of the country for prospectors to move about iu without trails, have been the reasons why liardly any prospecting was done this season, except on the bars of tho Columbia and a few creeks comparatively easy of access. Before closing this report, I think it but fair to mention that the diftcrent members of my party always gave mo their best assistance and took a real interest hi tho various occupations in which they were engaged, without which, iu worka 6 COLUMBIA RIVER EXPLORATION, 1866. 80 varied and scattered, and where they were often neceHsarilj left much to their own judgment, it would have been impoBaiblo for mo to have brought to a satisfactory termination. I remain, &c., W. MOBERLY. Note. — For a rough und tc'.MTMj trail, n lino might be got by tho valley of Gold River, and thenoe dowa a tributary and a portion of tho main vaOoy of Dusbuy River to ita mouth,' striking tho Columbia above tho Bout Kacumpmont, in Latitude 51° 44' N. I have not been over the whole of this line, and am thcrofure unable to give you a description of it throughout. A miner (Mr. Kcynton) prospcotinp; up Gold River, states that ho reached the divide bctweetk the head waters of the above streams ou the 24th June, and found snow on it. W. M. No. 2. — Mu. TuKNBULi, TO Mb. Mobeblt. Depot Camp, Cohimbia River, 3lBt July, 1866. Sir, — I Imvo the honour to submit for your information the enclosed Sketch and following Report, relative to my exploration of the Ej, jlo Crock Pass, viz.: — From the south arm of the Shuswap Lake I prcceedcd up the valley, as instructed by you, examining on my way both its banks, as to tho practicability of roads, &c., auu also keeping in view tho river, in order to see what facilities it offered in the way of steamboat navigation, &c. The valley I found to be very wide and almost level, and thickly covered with a forest of pines, firs, and cedars, and underbrush of such density as to be almost impenetrable, the prickly mountain ash growing in every direction in tho most luxuriant abundance. The mountains on both sides are sloping, and also thickly covered with tall pines and firs; in places, however, particularly at the mouth, ana about ten miles up stream, on the north side, the slopes are very lightly timbered and covered with excellent quality of feed. Small swamp grass meadows are also interspersed along the bottom, where feed may be had. The north bank of the valley is lined by a continuous line of low gravel benches, along which a road or trail may bo carried on almost a dead level, and with tho certainty of being solid and dry the whole of the year round. The streams putting into the valley are few, all small, and well confined to deep narrow channels, and not spreading all over the flats as is generally the case in all mountain districts. The benches I have mentioned, are more free from standing and fallen timber than the lower flats, and arc in every respect better calculated to prove the more eligible site for a road or trail. The stream along the bottom meandci-s verv much, intersecting tho valley in every direction, ana almost sweeping each bank alternately; it averages about four chains wide, with easy current, and is in every respect quite navigable for river steamboats at high stage of water, for at least fifteen miles in a direct line up the valley, and by cutting out snags, &c., which at present obstruct the river above this point, it may in all probability be found to be navigable up to tho forks, which point I consider to bo about twenty miles from the mouth. About four miles from the crossing of the forks a mountain torrent is crossed, which falls with great rapidity, in a succession of low falls, into the main stream; a low bridge, about 60 feet in length will be here required; this creek is the only one where bridging of any consequence is necessary. Leaving the latter stream, the trail will have to traverse round the (ace of a very broken hill side, much encumbered with fallen logs, thick brush, and stony slides, for about IJ miles, owing to a very extensive swamp meadow at bottom, after which a level, lightly tinibercd bench is again struck, which leads direct to tho crossing (see plan atD. and C.) of <^he North Forks. From the latter point to tho mouth, a distance of about ttventy miles, I am satisfied that a ten foot forest clearing can bo made, with a narrow graded trail, for about ^150 per mile, at aa average. On arriving at the crossing of tho North Forks, I found that it was impossible for me to cross ov or, without running the risk of iQsing the whole of my provisions COLUMBIA RIVER EXPLORATION, 1866. and stores, in consequence of the width and rapidity of the stivani, and knowing that you were desirous of ascertaining the terminus of the North Fork, I proceeded up tlie vulley, examining both banks as before. As I have already j^iven you a verbal relation of my journey up, I will be very brief with my description of it, and refer vou to my Journal for all details if necessary. Half a mile above noint D. (see plan at C.) the vallev narrows suddenly, and becomes a canon for anout half a mile; the river falls wfth great rapidity, and is confined to a very narrow channel by low, broken, precipitouH bluffs on each side; leaving the latter canon, it again opens out and assumes the same diaracter as before described. The flats on both sides are low, and lightly timbered, and oflor ovcvy facility for any description of road building. For tYie next twenty miles the valley continues thus. It then begins to narrow and rise witli great rapidity, and about three miles further on the stream terminates in a small pond or swamp lake, at which point I found my Barometer to register 26,400, somewhere about 2,000 feet above the level of the Shuswap Lake. On this summit, and in fact all along the route, the snotv bad cntirqjy disappeared, and judging from the luxuiir^t growth of the grass, shrubs, and underbrusli, I should say liad been oft' for somo considerable period. Immediately beyond the lake, the water falls gradually to tlie northward, the valley still continuing as before; four miles on, it turns sharply to the westward and joins the same stream up which the present Government trail is now carried, floniowhero about the French man's, near tlie twenty-one mile house. At the point where it turns to the west, several precipitous valleys or gulches join it from the north and cast, one of them, the largest and lowest, heads from the same source as the present divide of the Government trail. Having thus determined the source of the North Fork, I joined you next day at Kirby's, where I received instructions from you to at once proceed to the Eddy (on the C(»lumbia) and complete the exploration of the Eagle Creek Pass, up to the point where I had left off, and having now completed the examination of said valley, I bog to lay before you the following Report respecting it. Having cat7tfrf my spare provisions, Ac, at the Eddy, I proceeded up the valley (oft the morning ot the 20th July), and found that it answered to your description in every respect. Up to the summit (by Barometer 27.920J I estimated the distance at seven miles, and by keeping on the north side of the valley, close to the base of tho monntaiiifl, a trail or road can be brought on almost a dead level, traversing the whole way over dry, solid gravel, lightly timbered flats, very little encumbered with underbrush or fiilicn logs. At one point, about four miles from the Columbio, large granite boulders are strewn about the benches in every direction, but by keeping well to tho base of the monntains thoy are entirely avoided. The valley is very wide at its mouth, and rises with a grade not perceptablc; it gradually narrows on approaching the summit, at which point it is not more than a ^ of a mile wide, and closely hemmed in by high perpendicular mountains, covered to their summits with a dense growth of pines lum firs. The bottom, immediately adjoining the stream, is covered with a dense growth of willows and underbrush of various descriptions, with occuHional patches of good swamp grass meadows. As you arc already well ac(inainted with tliis portion of the valley, it is useless for mo to further describe it, particularly as no difficulty in the way of road building exists whatever. About i of a mile westward from tho summit, tho first lake is struck, wliicli is about forty chains in length, by about twi'iit.v -five chains in width; it is encom- jiusscd by high spurs from the main mountain range, and wiiich (on the north side) rise with almost precipitous slopes for a considerable lioight. The south shore is however, not so rocky nor precipitous, as to prevent a good pack trail licing built round, with veiy iiodcrate cost, by foliowiiif; the laltcr shore; one "olutt" only, falls perpendicularly to Ihe water's edge; loO foot above, liowovor, it forms into a narrow sort of rocky, jagged, bench, along which a saie pack trail can be built without incurring any serious blasting; me only blasting that I apprehend, will consist of loose crojipings, and the removal of isolated jagged points. The latter bluft" will be about two chains in length, if crossed \vliero I have mentioned. After which, up to the west end of lake, the trail can lie brought down /'"adnnlly to the water's edge, along the lace of a Htccji, wooded, rocky slope, Vnit w'tlion*^ the least blasting wliatever. 1 estimate the cost of a trail round this lake at aoout p)!)0. The next lake (Xo. 2), is situated about one mile further west, and is con- nected with the latter by a wide meanderiii'j stream; the north side of the vulley is much it up with dried up water chauncls, which together with the abundance of drift timber, Ac, which is strewn around in every direction, prove plainly that nt certain Kcasona it is well viislicd by mountain torrents. 1 hero are no such evidences however shewn on the south side of the valley, and it is, inconsequence, tlie most eligible line to adopt. Towards the head of lake No, 2, tho bottom of the valley ife very Hwampy, and covered in places with good feed; the latter lake is about forty chains in length by about thirty in width, and is not bound on eaih side with such steep and precipitous banks; tho south shore appears the least COLUMBIA I^mUR EXPLORATION, 18CG. Ibrmitlablo, u low, imrrow, broken, rocky bench htrctchea nearly from one entl of the lake to Iho other, along wliich an Indian trail is plainly marked, and by a liltlo bhiBting lierc and there, low walling, cribbing, &c., 1 am coutident that for about $000 n good aeiTiceable pack trail can bo built along thin broken bcncli. It may be found, on more detailed examination, that by keeping high un the hill, say 120 feet, a better route may bo adopteil when the tnvil may bo built, without any short and winding pitches, which will be necessary by the lower route. From the latter lake the valley becomes a little wider, the banks less rocky and iirecipitous, and continues so for about 8 miles up, at which point Three Valley jake is struck. The trail along the latter mentioned three miles will traverse over solid dry ilattt, covered with a medium growth of timber nearly the whole way. At one point, about 30 chains from the third lake, the bottom is eomplettly swamped, in consocpiencc of beaver dams, &c., in order to avoid which the trail will liavo to be brought round the face of a steep, stony, side hill for about 8 chains; after which a dry bench is reached, and which extends to the head of Lake No. 3. At the head, or cast end, of the latter lake, the valley is still narrow, and bouud on each siile by rough precipices for about tlirec-quarters of a mile, wlien it then gradually becomes wide, and turns sharply to the northward. Tlie north bank is unquestionaVdy the best line to follow, as all the bluffs, with two exceptions, ter- minate in low steep slides, sufficiently above high-water mark to leave ample room for a good trail, without iucurring any blasting. The two bluffs which I have mentioned rise from the water's edge, but as they are not more than 70 feet above high-water mark, and with narrow ilats on top, the trail can be easily brought over them. From the head of the lake to where it bends to the north, a trail may bo easily built, and without incurring much blasting, but heavy grading over rough, broken, hill-sides will be necessary, where cribbing and walling will bo required. From the bend, low timbered benches extend the whole way to the end of the lake. This lake, namely Three Valley Lake, is about If miles long, by about 40 chains in width. The cost of trail bv the route .which I have described, I estimate at about $800. To make a trail ou the opposite shore, the expense would be great, as the bluffs I'ise from the water's edge to a considerable height, and extend tor nearly three- quarters of a mile without a break. From the summit of a high mountain, situated immediately north of the bend of the lake, which I ascended, I obtained a full view of the whole neighbourhood, and could trace the vallo}' shown on plan, stretching towards Shuswap River. In every respect it bore a very favourable appearance for any description of road: it being wide, low, and bound on cither side by sloiiing hills. Its bottom appeared covered with very extensive tracts of meadow laud. I also saw a second low valley which I have shown on sketch, emptying into the latter; and which I could trace to the Columbia River. This valley also appeared low and wide, and evidently leads somewhere in the direction of the Arrow Lakes. The Three Valley L:>.ko I was led to believe was the last in the valley; but, after about a mile's travel, over lightly timbered flats, T cajiie to the 4th Lake (see plan), which I found is about 1 mile in length, by about ^ a mile in width, and bounded on each side l)y low benches, over which the trail may be brought at the usual average cost. From the latter lake to the Forks, there are no other lakes, but there are nu- merous very extensive swamps and meadows, which at the present time are much covered with water, which will aflord abundance of feed for animals, so soon as the water falls to a little lower stage. From the lake to the Forks, the character of the country is, very similar, as regards trail building, to the portion between the Forks and the Shuswap Lake; the only difference being that the valley has not such a wide bottom. There are two creeks to cross requiring bridging, between 40 and 60 feet in length. The trail throughout this portion majr, like the other parts, be brought on almost a level, and will bo perfectly dry and tree from swamps the whole season round. I have shewn in the accompanying sketch two crossings of the North Forks; the one at 1). will require a bridge aoout 200 feet in length, and will be very diffi- cult to build, so as to withstand the very rapid current, and heavy dritt timber which passes continually down during high water. At point C, where the canon eommonces, and which I have already described, a britigo 60 feet in length will span the river. The apid-oach will doubtless be rather expensive, owing to the broken and rocky nature of the hill side; but, on the whole, it will cost considerably less than by the lower route, and will bo much more permanent afterwards. To conclude, I beg to say that the valley throughout is unquestionably the best that fan be I'ound through the Gold Range, as it is well suited for any description c r I r c (: t f .1 C COLUMBIA RIVER EXPLORATION, 1866. a of trail, road, or railway, ami which wouUl be open for traffic nearly the whole year round. Abstract op Estimated Cost. From ShuBwnp Lake to the Forks, inc"liuliii<^ bridge $4,000 ., The Forks to the west end of Throe Valloy Lake .,. 2,800 ,, The 3 Lakes 2,060 „ The Summit to the Columbia River, including the portages between the lak^s 2,100 Total »10,ft50 I have, &c,, J. TURNBULL. No. 8. — Mr, Tcrnbuli, to Mr. Moberly. New "Westminster, 23rd November, 1866. Sir, — I herewith forward for yonr information, a copy of the Journal kept by iiic whilst employed under your direction exploring through the Gold and Selkirk Range. I have already fonvardcd to you a detailed report relative to the practicability of a line of road through the Eagle Creek pass (Shuswap Lake.) All the infor- mation that I can give, with reference to my last exploration, between Kootenay Lake and the head waters of the Columbia River, you will find fully detailed in my Journal. With reference to the latter exploration, I will merely state that I am now fully convinced that tio route suitable for a waggon road can be found, south of the Gold Stream Valley, through this formidable range; and from what I have seen of the range, 1 am almost certain that no route suitable for a waggon road can be found, but by the valley of the Columbia. You will see, by reference to my Journal, that'by Creek No. 3 and Toby Creek is the only place where the range can be crossed even with trail. By this route, should it ever be found necessary, n good trail might be made, wliich would open the country via Lake de Truite and Vrild Horse; and I am inclined to believe that, at some future time, a trail through in this direction will bo found necossary, as I am almost certain that gold will be found in paying quantities all over this section of country. At the present time there are a good number of men prospecting, both about Luke de Truite, the head waters of Kootenay Lake, and the Kootenay River. Should it be found necessary to build trails through in this direction, I ha\e only to say that the cost of con3truction will not be great, as there are no difficulties wliiitcvcr in the way. I forward with Journal, tracings showing the dilferent valleys explorcil, anil will, if you think it necessary, give more claliorate plans or report at any time you may rcfpiire, I am, Ac. J. TURNBULL. No. 4, — Journal of the second year's wop.k and Exploration in hie Country detwkli.n- the w° and 53° parallels 01' n, latitude and the 11.5° and 120' Meridians of W. Lonoitide, by W. Moberly. (TV, Jiarvii zom. — Having received instructions, in a letter dated the 26th inst., from tiie riiicf Commissioner of Lands and Works and Surveyor General of British Columbia, to procer ' o the Columbia River, and resume "the construction and explora- " tion of trails, &o.; , .,'' in that District, I left New Westminster at noon to-day, with the j)arty aiiiwiiitcd to accompany mc, on board tlie steamer Lillooct, bound for Yale. We reached Cue's Itaii'li nt dark, nnd lay llicro for the night. 10 COLUMIilA RIVER EXPLORATION, 1866. Thurtday, March 29A.— Arrived at Yale at 9 a. m. Arranged with Mr. F. J. Barnard to convey my party and baggage to Ashcroft. Loft Tale at 2 p. m., and stopped at Chapman's Bar for the night. Mr. Thomas Spence accompanied mo along the road. Friday, March 80m the Steamboat Landing opened. Saturday, June 2nd. — Eemained with Howell's party all day on the trail, and had camp moved to a point about nine miles above La Porte. Sunday, June 3rd. — Left Howell's camp and proceeded a part of tho way to French Creek, through the woods; c&mped. Mr. McMillan brought me letters in tho evening from Mr. Trutch and Mr. Howso, requesting me to go over to Seymour and attend to the sale of lots to tako place on the Uth instant. As 1 was on my way to French Creek to raise money to pay off a large portion of the men employed on tho snow clearing, and was unable to return so as to reach Seymour by tho 9th, wrote to that oflfoct to Mr. Trutch and Mr. Uowse. Mr. E. T. Smith came and stopped at my camp to-night. Heavy rain. Monday, June 4th. — Travelled all day through woods, and reached French Creek in the 11 to emp' and undurbrush along line of trail evening, where 1 camped. Instructed Mr. Turnbull to employ a gang of men, and return from French Creek to meet and cut out timber Howell's party Tuesday, June 5th. — Arranged with Mr. O'Roilly about money matters and advertising for lease of Ferry on Gold Kivor, &c. Loft French Crook in tho afternoon, and oxumineu tho dilforeut places where I thought it advisable to cross Gold River with trail; decided upon crossing just below the mouth of MeCulloch's Creek, and camped there. Walnesday, Junf ninino(l nt Htonmhnat Tiniiiiiii;r, Hick nrrivod, and brought «pociiiieii(* (>t'(|iiurt/. Wrote to tlic Hurvoyor (iitnorul, and forwnrdcd qiiartr. Hpci inioim, and Turnliiill'8 ruport and Hkutcli of the liiiu of roitd through Kagle llivor Puhb, which I had rocoivod ycBtorday by tb<' Htcnnu-r Forty-iiino. Tluiriuhii/, Aw/imf 9fh. — Loft La Porto at 2 p.m., in llio PoHv-nino, and mn down to the iniddlo of tlio lippor Arrow Ijukf, where wo UimI up for tfio niglit. On our way down loll a party ol jn'OHpoctoru at tlio ntouth of tiio lllc-ears to be several miles in extent, and both the prairie and surrounding low hills are covered with rich bunch and other gi-assos. I think some very good farms will at some future day bo brought undor cultivation here. Friday, Aiif/uxf 24//i. — Started at 8 a. m., and reached Wild Horse Creek at 11 a.m. AVas uii'ablc to hire horses to go on to the source of Columbia River. Sotvrdny, Awpist Ibth. — Remained at Wild Horse Creek. Took latitude, which I found to bo 49° 38' .M" N. Sent out to try and hire horses from some Kootenay Indiana who were camped about 5 miles off. Sunday, Awjmt 26ears to be vci'v little (liUcrenco between the level of the Kootenoy Kiver, at the ibr(l,and tluit of the Coiuniliiu Lake. I was unable to get the latitude hero, as the sky was covered witii clouds. At the lieaii of the Columbia Lake there is much marshy ground. I followed'the^truil along the easterly side of lake, which passes over rocky bluffs ut both ends of lake; the height gained on the blufl'at south end of lake being about 500 feet above its level; the other j)ortions of this part of the trail are generally on high benches; bunch-grasL all the distance; timber, scattered red pine, fir, &c. Keuchcd a point about 1 mile north of lower end of lake, and camped at a small stream whore there was a large encampment of Kootenay Indians, who wore engaged curing salmon, which are caught in great abundance here, but are very poor and coarse, and gave me the idea of all being worn out flsh. l'ai(l off Indian that packed my sup])lics, &c., from Wild Horse Creek, und hired three more horses from the Indians here, who had a band ot'liW or 400 head, some of which were tolerably good horses. Thurgilai/, Aiujmt 30M. — Having taken tho latitude of this camp, which I made 50° W bb" N. (the observation was not good and could not be accurately relied upon) I starred at 12.30 and travelled some 10 or 11 miles, where I camped. The whole distance travelled to-day was along a very good trail, Ayiich generally passed over flats and benches. Tliefo wore a few unimportant side hills on this portion of the trail. Fine bunch-grass covered all the flats, benches, and side hills. Tho river bottom is wide, and there is much flooded lend, which I see is shewn on Cupt. Palliser's map (in part) as a lake, and may, perhaps, be considered in that light. This portion of the valley varies from 3 to 5 miles in width, and there is not any break in tho mountain ranges on either side of it, except where a small creek (Toby's Creek, No. 1) fulls into it on its westerly- side, at the north end of Columbia Lake. This evening tho weather was very cold, and there was a strong north wind blowing. Friday, Aut/ust 31«^ — Left camp at 9 a.m., and travelled about 28 miles, whore v o camped on a stream, through the valley of which the Indians tell me there is a good trail, at a low elevation, througli the mountains to the eastward. It would thoroforo lead into the Vermillion Puss. The trail passed over to-day runs along several steep side hills; a fine growth of bunch-grass the whole distance. The timber begins to grow more plentifully than on that portion passed over yesterday. A largo creek (marked on our official maps and named Toby's Creek, No. 2) falls into the valley of tho Columbia from tho westward, about latitude 50° 32' 00" N. It is by the vaUey of this creek that the old Indian trail (Kinbaskit's trail) to the head of Kootenaj- Lake was opened, and 1 was in hopes to have met with or heard of Mr. Turnbull here, who is exj)loring this line. I, however, could hear nothing about him. According to the latitude given by Dr. Hector, tho trail leading into the Vermillion Pass is about 3 miles south of the mouth of Toby Creek, No. 2. Two families of Indians overtook me to-day, and I got some infor- mation from them about tho country. They tell mo that on the flats on either side of the upper Columbia, the deepest snow in winter diies not exceed six inches in depth, and that their horses winter there ver^- well. This was in jmrt corroborated by several houses at different points along this "trail that I saw, and which had been built by stock owners who had wintered large bands of cattle und horses there a year or two previous to this date. The upper Columbia Indians do not grow potatoes, i.oi do they cultivate any land; but I could not clearly make out if they grow potatoes on tho Kootenay Rivor, between the source of the Columbia Rivor and Wild Horse Creek, but I think not. Saturday, Siptindier Is/. — Left camp at 9 a.m., and reached Kinbaskit's crossing at 10.40 am. I here paid ort" the Indian that packed my supplies from the Columbia Lake, and, having taken the latitude of this crossing, which I nuide 50° 47' 03", I put all my sup- plies into a small log canoo, and ran down to Kinbaskit's Ashing station, about 2J or 8 miles further down tlie river, where we found about 15 Indians employed drying salmon, which aro caught in largo quantities here. These Indians aro a portion of tho Shuswap 18 COLP.NfBTA RIVER RXTLORATrON", Ifitffl. fribo (from T.iUlo Slmnwiip fiukc), niiil Hi'tdc'tl licrc ulioiit 20 yonrn nj^o. Tlu> hnnkH of tlu< Coliiiiiliiii l{ivt>r ai'o low uml N\viiiii|iy, mid iiniiu'iliiilcly uiljoiniiif; tlic river uro covurod with » (loiiNv iiikI ulnicmt ini|i(Mictriililf f;ro\vtli of willowM, <'rul>-it|)|ilo, and otiicr bimlioH, Tliu water in tlit< river iH ol'u ;h the Uocky Moiin- tnins by the valley of u creek about H or 4 milcH Hoiith of Iuh finhery ; also one by a vnlley wliich, by hiH deHcription, iiiiiHt be the Tiilley of Kicking HorMc Uiver, dcHcribcd b}- Dr. Hector. He hIho Hiiyn he Iuih taken liorMcM up the valley of Toby dreek. No. '2, nearly to itH Noiirce, and then leuvin^ them Iiiih piiNHcd on foot over a hi^li divi over the mouiilaiiiH to Jordnn Creek, from which iioiiit ho tbllowed the Indian trail (described by mo lust year) to Seymour. Thin trij), howover, took him woveral montliH to perform. Snmhi!/, Srpfrmhir 'Zml. — Romained at IvinbiiHkit'H camp, and, after much trouble, hiic- ' e the trip ilowii to the nioii L'uther very cold at nighlN. coeded in purchaHin^ii very bad bark canoe to make the trip down to the nioiilh of (iold Kivor. Took latitude, which \» TiO" 41)' 40" N. Weutl Miimhii/, Si pie III hi r tin/. — After mending canoe, T left camp at 12.30 ]>.m.,nnd ran about 6 milcH down the river, where wo were oblij^ed to land niul camp to repair our cunoe. Tuvmhiy, Si-plrmlier 4l/i. — Having repaired the canoe, I left camp at 1. 30 )t. m., after taking the latitude, which I made r>U° 54' 32", and we ran down about 10 miles, when wo mot three canoes filled with Indiaim. 1 tlioreforo wtopped for the night to see if 1 could gut a ^ood caiioo from them. Wiihiemhii/, Sipttmln r ^^ih. — After lunch trouble, I succeeded in /^ettiiif; a tolcrablj' good canoo from those Indians, and ran about 10 miles further down the river, when wo were afjain oblij^cd to hind and patch and pit(di our canoes, i took the latitude at this point, which I mado 51° 04' 02" N., and Kiiilmskit pointed out to mo a low place in the moun- tftiiis to tho eastward, some 800 feet in hoi/^ht, ov^' which ho says horses ciin be taken into tho Vermillion Pass. Having moiided tho canoos, we Htarfod and ran about 10 miles further down tho river, and then camped. There is inueb low, flooded land immediately adjoining tho buiikH of tho river, and many Blouglm. T/iurmlai/, SiptimJier (Sth. — Kan down to the mouth of Kickinjj Horse If ivor, where' I took latitude, which is 5P 18' 10" N. I then proceeded down stream and camped at tho mouth of a creek that falls into the Columbia Hiver on its easterly hiile, about miles below the mouth of Hliiebcrry Kivor. The Indians tell mo that the valley of the Blae- berry Kiver nflbrds tho best pass through tho mountains to tho eastward (see Dr. Hector's Ecport). Tlicy say the mountain Hhcop abound on tho mountains south of this river, and the cariboo on those north of it, but that tho latter is not found south of tho inoutli of Kicking Horse Iliver; also, that tho largo salmon (white) do not go further up stream than tho Kicking Horse Hiver 'J'lio banks of river are now covered with a dense growth of pino, cedar, sjiruco, lir, birch, ko. Koad building along tho right bank of the Columbia Bivor, from its souroo to this point, will be comparatively casj-. Frlihiy, Siplrmfiir 1th. — Left camp at 7.30 a.m., and almost immediately got into a caflon where tho stream is in many ])laces v^ry rapid and narrow, and the rocks of a elate formation. I think at tho stage the water was at when 1 jiassed hero that a Bteamer could get through this cafSon, but tho rapids a short distance below, and which extend 8on\o 3 or 4 miles in length, are in manj* jilaces shallow and full of boulders, and I fear unnavigablo. I sto])ped at the mouth of a large creek which falls into the Colum- bia on its westorlj' side, in latitude 5\,° .HI' 30" N. 'Tho Indians say a trail from Gold Kiver might strike the Columbia at the mouth of this creek, but it would have to bo taken over much higher ground than if brought to mouth of Bushev River. They toll me that tho south branch of this stream heads near the north branch ef tho Spille-niu- chem River, and that the divide between those two streams is low, and would afford a very level line for a trail. Should a trail or road bo opened along the oast or right bank of the Columbia, it should leave tho banks of the main river immediately- aliovo tho Slato Caflon and, passing through a low valley, strike tho main river at a point nearly opposite tho moutu of tho Bushey River. Timber about tho same as on that portion. SaftiriJai/, Siptemhi-r ?>lh. — Ran down to tho mouth of tho Bushey River, and then crossed over to tho opposite side of the Columbia, wdiore I stopped at tho mouth of a large stream, about i| of a mile below the mouth of Bushoj- River; I hero took the latitude, which is 51° 44' 45" N. From tho mouth of this stream there is a low valley COLUMDIA UIVER EXTLORATIOX, I86fl. rniniin^ in a Honth-oaHtorlv iliruction to tlui lionil ut'tlio Hluto Cunnn. AI)out U milon north of tlio point whuro 1 tixtk the. lutitiiilo, wo cumo »i> tlio IicikI of H<,nio vory hud rnpiilH (tim wornt on tiio Cohimhiii Hiv»r), which wo urtorwjnU umortiiinod oxtundod Boino 4 miloH in longth. Thuro i« u truil from tho homl of IIicho ritpidit to tho lowor end of tiio worot of thvii). I iind my inNtrumontit nnd hool urH hard worit, moHt of tlio tin)o in tho wator, wo Hiiccoudod, allor ])nei. building n roud alon^ tho eant hunk of river; but it mi^ht pohHibly bo kept on Homo liigh boncuos that I only partially examined. Timber Humo as boforo. Sitmhif, S'ptrmhir 9/A. — Having uguin ropaired tho cunoos, wo loO, camp at 0-80 o.m., but in running n rapid, about u ) of u mile below eump, my cunoe wuh thrown on Home rooks nnd much injured, nnd tho other eunoo, which wiih immedintely behind, run into mine and broke about '2 feet off her bow; wo filled up the IioIoh with blunkots and ran tlown to tho south ond of KinbuHkit Lake, where we repaired thont, ami I took^tho latitude, which is 61° 64' 3G" N. Wo then proceeded to the lower ond of KiiibuHkit Luke and camped. This Inko is about 8 miles in length, und there are muny hIiouIh at tho upper or south end of it; wo did not paws any baiM'apids to-day. Tlie mountains on both banks arc high, nnd the nhoroH rocky. On the easterly side of the lake tho mountains nro composed of sinto. The Indian trail from tlie mouth of Jordan ('reek, terminates at tho entrance of n low, narrow valley, through which a stream flows. At tho south- westerly end of this lake, n largo stream niso falls into Kinbaskit Lake, at its south-east- erly corner, nnd the Indians tell mo thero is coal a short distance up it. Dense woods covered tho banks of ri» or and mountain sides all tho distance travelled to-day. Mmulm/, Siplemhrr lOM. — Left cnmp nt 8 a.m., and immedintely at the foot of Inko wo 'ly af ifos. encountered rapids that extended tho whole distance, V or 10 mifos, travelled to-day.jit might bo possible nt a high stage of water to get a steamer over these rapids with linos, but now they nro too shallow, and there are maiiv boulders which are not covered with water. Tho mountains on botli sides of river are fiigh a'' ' .-iteep, and road buildingnlong the most of this portion of*tlio valley would he expensive. I walked the whole distance travelled to-day, and the Indians run, dropped, nnd portuged the canoes over tho rupids, Aic, nnd wore most of tho dn} in the wnter. TiKidm/, Septrmhir 11/A. — Stnrtc^ I.IWUI1.J. i vui/n. nju luiiiuuv i»i If uBuii a jjuiiuiiig, wMicn J. mauo ox 4U JN. I hero learnt that tho Officer administering tho Government, the Surveyor General, and ivould camp this evening at Kirby's Landing, I therefore ran down the rivor COLUMBIA RIVER EXPLORATION, 1866. TABLE OP LATITUDES. Stations shewn on the Official Map. O / II Fort Shepherd 49 1 7 Wild Horse Creek 49 38 51 Small ereok, one mile north ofColuinbia Lake, oast bank Columbia Eivor 60 19 55 Kinbaskit's Crossing 50 47 3 Kinbaskit's Cnmp (Indian fishery ~> 50 49 40 Mouth of Kicking Horse River 51 18 19 Mouth of largo creek, nearly opposite mouth of Bushey River 51 44 45 Island, south end of Kinbaskit Lake 51 54 30 Boat Encampment 52 7 31 Wilson's Landing 51 40 00 The above woro taken with a Box Sextant. W. MOBERLY. ^ Mb. Tprnbull's Journal. June 19th. — Started about' 8 a.m., day fine, and reached Kirby's Landing about dusk. Hired one Indian (Nareisse) and a white man (Fred. (Vowduce) to accompany me through the pass; also got two of Mr. Moberly 's ludiai.s (Pappoon and Cultus Jim). June 21st. — Remained at Kirby's Landing, preparing for the journey. June 22nd. — Left Kirby's Landing at 8 a. m., with my party and stores, and reached the summit of the mountain, between Seymour and Kirby's, abiut noon, where I found Mr. Hick employed shovelling off snow, corduroying, &c., &c. Had dinner at his camp, after which I again started, and about dusk reached Mr. Laytou's camp. Fountl the trail in many places very soft. Camped with Jlr. Laytou. June 2Sr(l. — Morning stormy and wet; cleared off about 10 a.in,^ Started shortly afterwards, and reached Seymour about 5.30 p.m. June 24nt stage. The Indians who accompany me are both accustomed to boating and cros.>*ing rive •;, and tiic-y agree in opinion that an attempt to cross by means of raft would only result in tli j loss of our provisions, probably our lives; and as I rely more on their judgment than on my own. on such matters, I will not make the attempt; but will explore up the North Forks until I reach its head waters. From thence, after examining the divide which separates it fro.'u the Columbia, I will make the best of my way either to the Eddy or to Kirby's Lauding. As no one has hitherto examined this valley, and as Mr. Moberly has expressed a wish for me to do so if possible, I tiiink, under the present circumstances, it is the only course for me to pursue. 1 will, therefore, to-morrow proceed up the valley, and trust to my gun for provisions should I fall short. July ith. — Rema'ned in camp all day, in consequence of heavy rain and fog. July bth. — Started about 8 a.m. — day fine — and travelled along the west bank of the North Fork branch. 1 J miles above the forks the river is hemmed in by steep, precipitous bluff's and slides, and runs with great rapidity in a succession of low falls. These bluff's are, however, low, therefore should it at any time become necessary to bring' a road or trail up the North Forks, it can be brought over the bluff's without incurring any steep grade or the least blasting. At the commencement of this curion, the river is not more than (iO or 70 feet wide, and I am of opinion it will be the best point to cross with mule trail, or possibly with a waggon road, should a road or trail be made to the Columbia. At the latter mentioned caDon, I again endeavoured to cross by falling trees over the river. They, however, either fell short or were broken '.^ pieces. On the opposite side there are several trees that could be easily thrown across. Having no other alter- native, I again started up stream. After leaving the cation (which is about J mile long) the valley again opens and a.'isumes the same character as before. The flats along both sides of the river are low and very lightly timbered, ai d otf'er every facility for any description of road building. The streams putting into the riwr are all confined in good channels, and are easily crossed. Taking it ut an average, a good wide trail can be br.ilt for about ^140 or 8150 a mile. Camped about dusk, on the west bank of the river, about G miles from the Forks. July 6<7i. — Started about 8 a.m. — day fine — and followed along the low benches that border the west bank of the river. For the first 2 miles the benches are wide and heavily timbered, and greatly cut up by small streams from the mounUin, th'- Mien logs are very thick, the underbrush very 22 COLUMBIA RIVER EXPLORATION, 1800. dense and tangled. From the latter point tlio flaU narrow, and in placos the hill sides slope graduiiliy to the riTcr's edge. Both flats and hill sides continue thickly wooded and much blocked with iallen logs. The whole of the distance travelled to-day, trail making is of ihe lightest description. Day'a travel about 5 miles. July 7th. — Started about 10 a.m. — morning fopgj' and wet — and travelled along the west bank as before; the valley still wide and low, but the flats and hill sides more encumbered with fallen timber; the standing timber is also heaviei' and the undevbrtish of the worst possible description. Camped about sundown, on the bank of the river, near to a large tract of swamp meadow laud, covered with excellent grass. Day's travel about 4 miles. Jttli/ 8th. — Started about 9 a.m. Day foggy, bush very wet and miserable. For the first two miles the valley continues the same as described yesterday; it then narrows considerably and rises with greater rapidity. In miiny places the hill sides fall with steep slopes to the river's edge, and are well dottt:! with large rocks and boulders; the underbrush during the whole day's march of the worst possible description ; the fallen timber also very thick ; no engineering difflculties, however, of any note in the way of trail making. Day's travel about 4 miles. Juli/ 9th. — Started about 8.30 a.m. After about a mile's travel, the standing timber almost entirely disappears, and in its place the bottom and hill aide is covered with a tall, thick growth of mountain willow, so thick and tangled that 1 was scarcely able to force my way through it. The creek continues to rise rapidly for about 4 miles, when the summit is gained ; at which point I found the barometer to register 26.400, somewhere about 2,000 feet above the mouth of Eagle Creek. The summit is covered with a thick growth of firs, but with very little underbrush. The creek terminates in a small lake or s«,:mp. The valley, however, still continues in the same course, and about 1 mile on a small creek joins it from the east, which fiills to the northward, through the bottom of the valley, in a very winding manner. Camped about 1^ miles north of the summit. Day's travel about 6| miles, Jvli/ 10th. — Morning showery and foggy up to 10 a.m., after which very heavy rain all day. Bemained in camp. Sent the Indians out to see if they could shoot anything. July 11th. — Morning still showery and foggy; but having no provisions, started aboiit 8 a.m. along the bottom of the valley, and found it to fall very gradually in a northerly direction, still wide and heavily timbered with firs and cedars and dense underbrush. 3 miles from the summit a small creek joins it from the east. The latter creek springs from a high snow peak about 2 miles back. A mile further on a second creek joins it from the same direction, which also terminates in a high divide, separating it from the Columbia. From this same divide, a creek heads which empties into the Columbia River, about 3J miles below Kirby's Landing. 2 miles I'urther on, the valley turns westwards, and n;n water's edge, therefore, the trail may be brought over their summits without incurring any blasting whatever. On detailed examination, the whole of the route round the Inke appears less formidable than I at first anticipated, and I am confident, will not cost for the v^hole length (about 1} miles) more than $800. Having com- pleted the examination of lake, ' next proceeded up the valley to the next lake. This portage is about 3 miles in length, in several ploccs the entire bottom is swaaipod by beaver, the trail will consequently have to be brought round the sidehill; and in several places, owing to the bluffs descending to the bottom of the swamp, there will be required a good deal of corduroying, or low bridging. I think, however, that by keeping on the north side of the stream, the trail can be built for about $050, across this portage. I next examined No. 2 lake, and could see that the south sliore was unquestionably the best route for a line of trail or road. A low, rugsjed, rocky, broken bench runs completely round the lake, over which an old Indian hunting trail is plainly marked. By following this route, there will be but very little blasting, but the trail will have several short but not dangerous pitches. It is possible, that a better route may be found by keeping further up the hill side, about 100 or 120 feet above liigh water mark, as the hill side appears quite sloping and free from V)luffs. However, by adopting the lower route, a good trail can be made for about $600, or thereabouts. Leaving the latter lake, I next proceeded up the valley to lake No. 1, which is distant about 1 mile from rhR last lake. The trail along the latter portage will be easily built, as the entire route i» (n;e continuons wooded flat. I next examined the south shore of the lake, as it was evidently the most eligible route to adopt, and I found that there was only one bluff to cross, and that by keeping up about 100 feet above the lake, it could he cros,sed with about two chains cf heavy work — such as walling, cribbing, and partial blasting — the remainder of the distance would be stiff side hill ; altogether, I estimate this lake at about $700. Afler completing the latter examination, I made the best of my way to the Columbia; reached the Eddy by du.sk, and camped. Jti/ij 'Slst. — Drawing a plan, and writing a report to Mr. Moberly on my last reconnaissance through the Eagle Creek. Augvst Isf. — Still employed with plan and report, and preparing my stores, &c., for my next trip to the head of the Kootenay Lake. Mosquitoes, frightful. Atigiist 2ii(l to 1th. — Proceeding to Fort Shepherd, in order to procure bark canoes and Indians. Aiigwit 8th and 9fh. — Remained at Fort Shejiherd, endeavouring to procure Indians and canoes, could not secure the services of Indians, as tliey were all buKiiy engaged fi.shing, hunting, &o. Persuaded a white man (Dick Fry) to accompany me with his canot's as far as the smooth water of the Kootenay, at which point he was to return by land, leaving me the two bark canoes. Augmt lO/Zi. — Started up the Columbia River en route, for the Kootenay Lake. As I have already described the route up the Columbia, and as Mr. Dewdney has also described the Kootenay valley, I will no^, at the present time, attempt any description. Camped about 15 miles from Shepherd. AufiHst ll/'i. — Started about 8 a.m., and reached the mouth of the Kootenay River, by 6 p.m. Day fine. Aii;pist 12th. — Started up the Kootenay River, and camped IJ miles up, at foot of the first portage, owing to thunderstorm, heavy rains, &c. Am/nut ISth. — Owing to the roughness and rapidity of the river, had to make a IJ mile portage over a, very bad trail. Camped at the end of the portage. Aiii/ii!it \ith. — Canoed up stream, and camped at the foot of tlio first falls, having completed a dislaiico of about 8^ miles; river very rapid and dangerous the whole way. Ani/iinl \hlh. — Made a 3.J mile portage of our canoes, provisions, &c., and camped at the end of the \> -ige. Met with a party of prospectors, who were endeavouring to get up the river; they have '.vcn 3 wcek» getting so liir; had they bark canoes, they would have made the trip in 6 days. COLriMBIA RIVER EXPLORATION, 1866. 26 Aw/itft IQlh. — Made about 5 miles up river, and camped; had to make several small portages i.r provisions and canoos. Awjw>t \llh. — Cleared all the bad water by noon, and discharged Dick Fry ; made about 10 miles further and camped ; water from the last rapid without current. Avjitst \Mi to 20tfi. — Canoeing to the head of the Kootcuay Lake. Aii'jK^t l!ls^ — Canoeing up the stream separating the lower and upper Kootenay Lakes, which 1 I'ouud very rapid. Had very hard work to stem the current with our bark canoes. Aiiijn>:t 22)1(1. — Reached the foot of Kinbaskit's trail. Found no Indians there. Awjust 2'6r(l. — Canoeing to the head of the upper Kootenay, in order to secure the assistance of Indians, llcachcd the head about 4 p.m., and found one family encamped there. Aw/unt 24M. — Engaged an Indian (Na-how-a-chin) to acconijiaiiy nie to the summit of the range, v!a Creek No. i (sec plan). He informed me that from that point I could see the wliole range. Packed up stores^ lic, for the trip, and also made a rorlu] of provisions. Aui/iml 2t)lli. — Started up Creek No. 1, and found it very narrow and rocky, and with a very steep grade. ]}ush very thick, and abundance of fallen timber. Camped about 4 miles up stream. Aw/iist 2(jth. — Continued up stream ; found that the valley narrowed rapidly, and to rise with a very steep grade. About noon I came to where it terminated in several steep gulches. As- cended to the summit by one of the gulches, and came to eternal snow and ice. Could sec nothing but one continuous field of ice peaks, &c. Waited on this summit for the appearance of my Indians. They, however, have evidently taken up the mountain by some other gulch. I am, therefore, compelled to take shelter for the night behind a few stunted, withered pines, without blankets or food. Av'/itst 21 til. — Cannot imagine where the Indians can have camped. Can see in every direction, but not the least sign of fire or camp. I^esccnded to the bottom of valley, and searched in every direction for their tracks, but tailed to get the slightest trace of them. IJeiiig very hungry, I gave up all idea of hunting them up, therefore started with Mr. Ilowell to our inilir at the head of the lake, well aware that the Indians would soon trace us and return. Jly nest idea is to ex- plore the Creeks Nos. 2 and o (see plan), and by one of them cross over to the head waters of the Columbia. Ileauhed our cm-lKj a little after sundown, in a very hungry state. August 2Sth. — Remained in camp all day, waiting the return of my Indians and guide. Aii;/usl 2n//(. — Remained in camp. Indians returned a little after dusk, with r; very confused account of where they had been. Discharged Na-how-a-chin, as I could See that lie was perfectly useless and not fit to travel. Aw/nut ^Olli. — Left the head of the lake, and camped at the foot of Kinbaskit's trail, between Creeks Nos. 2 and 3. AuiiHxt 'iXstt. — Rain and fog. Remained in camp, preparing packs, &c., lor next trip, that the greater portion of my flour was destroyed. Had to empty it out into new bags. Found Hiptrmhir \xt. — Started up the No. 2 Creek. Found it wide and low, and in every respect (juite favourable for trail making, but very heavily timbered and blocked up with fallen logs, &c. Very slow travelling in consequence. Camped about T) miles up stream. Sfptanhiu- 2nd. — In consequence of the difficulty in getting along the bottom of the valley, and in order to get a good view of the country, and escape the timber, I began the ascent of the mountain separating (, 'reeks Nos. 2 and Ji. Reached the summit about dusk. Could see up both creeks for a considerable distance. Could also see up the N.W. Creek (see plan) shewn running into the head of upper Kootenay Lake. As far as the eye could reach it appeared low, wiih', and must join somewhere in the vicinity of the summit of the east branch of the Ille-eille-waut River. I certainly think that if the latter creek was properly prospected gold would be found in paying ([uantities, as it has every appearince of being a gold-bearing country, and must drain nearly the whole of the country lying between this and the summit of' Gold Stream. For trail making, however, the valley would be useless, as it would be as great a bend as the Rig Jiend itself. Camped on the summit. Si/ilimlttr iiriJ. — Travelled along the ridge in an easterly direction, keeping in view both val- leys below. Found it quite as difficult to make head way above as below, owing to the broken nature of the ridge. Made very little progress in consequence. September ith. — Seeing that it would be impossible for me, owing to the roughness of the country, to examine the whole of the range towards the head waters of St. Mary's and the head waters of the Columbia, I divided my party and provisions with Mr. Howell, and gave him in- structions to cross over Creek No. 3, gain the summit of the mountains to the south, and then travel in a southerly direction, and find out the head of St. Mary's Greek ; after which find out whether any of the creeks emptying into the Kootenay Lake headed in the direction of St. Mary's Creek ; after which to join me at our cache at the foot of Kinbaskit's trail. For my part, I determined to travel in an easterly direction, ascertain the height of the divides at head of Creeks 20 COLUMBIA RIVER EXPLORATION, 1860. Nos. 2 and 8, then cross over the divide by 8omc other way to the head waters of the Columbia. Travelled along the Buinmit, as the day before, towards the head of the creeks before mcntioued. Travelliug getting much more difficult, continually ascending and descending steep, precipitous peaks and slide.'*. Camped about duak, at the foot of a high, rocky peak, which I could neither cross over nor round in any way. Septemher bih. — Not being able to proceed further along the ridge, I descended to the bottom of Valley No. 3. On my way down, my Jndian (Narcisse) got afraid whilst crossing a bluff, lost his presence of mind, and threw away his pack containing the whole of my provisions. I sought for it in every direction, but could not get the least trace of it. ViH to camp without food. I am rather afraid I shall have to return to my eaclie a second time ' ithout food. Septemhrr Glh. — Started at suiiiise, and searched in all directions for the missing pack. Had to scramble amongst roeks and precipices, at the risk of my beck. About noon, saw it behind a large boulder, on a shelf of rock, and had the greatest difficulty in getting at it. After partaking of food, again started and made the bottom of valley about dusk, and camped. September 7th. — Travelled along the bottom of the valley towards the head waters, and found it low, wide, and in every respect favourable for any description of road, but very heavily timbered, and blocked with fallen logs. About dusk I came to where it terminated suddenly in three steep gulches. Camped at the foot of the centre gulch. SeptemJiir 8th. — Started about sunrise, and couinienced the ascent of the centre divide, it being evidently the lowest of the three. On reaching the summit, I found that immediately on the bppo- site side a large open valley took its head and bore straight to the Columbia Kiver, in a north- easterly direction. The latter valley I make no doubt is one of the Toby Creeks sliown on plan. The divide is quite narrow on the top — not more than a chain — and descends on both sides, par- ticularly the eastern slope, with great rapidity. Its altitude above tlu' sea 1 found by barometer to be about 5,330. The bottom of each valley is not more than i mile ajiart in a horizontal line. For a mule trail the divide would answer, as by zig zaging it could bo brought up and down with a good grade, and coiJd, owing to its narrowness, be easily cleared of .snow. The summit itself would be a trifling matter, as it is net more than a chain wide. The divide, however, will never answer for a waggon road owing to its height and steei)ne8S. Having examined the divide, I descended to the valley to the eastward, as I am determined to proceed down it to the Columbia, determine .._ latitude of the latter, and collect what infonnation I can of other routes, supply myself with a fresh stock of provisions, then return and examine all the divides to the northward. Camped about IJ miles from the summit, ana put myself and Indian under very short allowance of provisions. September 9th. — Started about sunrise, and travelled as quick as I could down stream, my stock of provisions beinc now almost exhausted. Camped about 10 miles down. Had to wade across a very large stream putting in from the north-east (see plan at C.) I will explore this on my return. The whole of the distance travelled to-day a trail may be made for 8120 per mile. Plenty of first class feed in every direction. September lOth. — Travelled down stream. Every t}iing as regards road building '' the most mmple description, and abundance of feed. Travelling difficult, owing to fallen logs and thick brush. Crossed a second large low valley at D. I will also examine the hc.'id waters of this valley on my return, as they appear quite low and may have low divides. Have to camp without supper to-night. Indian very sulky. September Wth. — Started about sunrise. After about an hour's travel killed 3 grouse. Stopped and cooked two of them. Started again, and in a couple of hours struck bunch grass flats and side- hills, and about noon came to the low, rolling hills which border x\\v Columbia. Found lioise trails in every direction, but could not see any other signs of Indians. Travelled about until dark, but failed to strike across any Indians or camp, theretbre liad to camp without provisions. September \2th. — Travelled up the Columbia, and about 9 a.m. came across an Indian on horse- back, who directed me to where the Indians were encamiied. On reaching which I found about 30 Kootenay Indians engaged fishing the most vile description of salmon, which I found .vas the oidy food they had in their possession. Hired a horse from one of them, and started down stn.'sm in order to find Kinbaskit, and see if I could get any provisions from him, and also information re- snoetin" the d>(fi'vent roules. Had not gone fiir when I met in with his two sons, who informed me that he had gone down the Columbia with Mr. Moberly. They had nothing but the same de.scription of siilmon, and could give me no legitimate information respecting the country. Returned to my camp, resolved to send an Indian to Wild Horse, if possible, and get a supply from that quarter. Sptemhiv 13//(.— Made arrangements with an Indian to ride to Wild Horse for a supply of pro- visions, and to be back in three days. September l^th and ibth. — Took latitude. September I6//1.— About 10 a.m. the Indian returned from Wild Horse with my provisions. Hired one of the Kootenay Indians to go with me on my return trip, and started about I p.m. for the mouth of the valley of Toby Creek. Camped about 1 mile from its junction with the Columbia. September Uth. — Travelled up the valley, and camped about dusk at the junction of the upper branch (see plan at C.) On passing the junction at D., I could see that it must head somewhere from the same direction as the branch C, therefore, I made up my mind to explore the latter, and fi:om its divide proceed in a northerly diiestion and examioo the other. COLUMBIA RIVER EXPLORATION, 1866. tf SijUemhir 18th. — Travelled up the valley at C, and found it very favourablfl for road making. By sun-down, 1 came to where it terminated apruptly in the face of a huge mountain covered wi& glaciers, and perfectly uselesa and unfit for anything ia the way of routes. Sep'mhir l^ih. — Started up the summit for the purpose of getting to the summit of D. branch valley. Had the greatest difficulty in gaining the top, owing to the steepness and broken nature »)f the glaciers. Hud to fish my Indian out of several deep cracks. On reaching the summit, I found that valley D. sprung Irom the same divide (see plan.) I next travelled for about 2 miles in a northerly direction over fields of ice, then struck down hill until I got to wood and camped, ftly intention now is to tra^l on the range until I ascertain something about the head waters of the N.E. branch (see plan at Upper Kootenay Lake.) Sfptemher 20th. — Continued to travel on the ice. My Indian, who is now thoroughly afraid, is very sulky, and it is only by threats that I get him along. Siplcmlrr 21s« to iith, — Continued to travel in a northerly direction along the summit, which I found to be one unbroken chain of the most wild and rugged peaks man can pofc^ibly imagine. On the evening of the 24th, I reached a point on the range from which I could see the source of the Spille-mu-cliem, alno the N.E. valley shown on plan, emptying into the Upper Kootenay Lake, the divide being much more formidable than* any I had formerly examined. So being now perfectly convinced that no pass can exist through this range up to this point, I shall at once return to my cache. I anticipate a rough time in doing so, as my provisions are nearly out. Septemfiii- '27)f7i to 29//i. — Returning to the cache, which point I gained on the evening of the 2!)th, but in a very weak condition from the want of food. Found Mr. Howell at the cache, where he had been for 12 days. ] was much afraid he had left for Shepherd, thinking me either lost or having gone round by Wild Horse. Had he done so, I would have been in rather an awkward fix, as I had neither axe, provisions, tobacco, or anything else. Sepfemher 30/h to OefnherGth. — Travelling to Fort Shepherd wth bark canoes; was several times very hard up for provisions, and had one or two rather narrow escapes of being swamped in the riffles of the Kootenay River. Met the four prospectors (of whom I have spoken) working their way up tlie river with their winter's provisions; they sjioke of having good prospects licmewhere between the mouth of Kootenay River and the lake, and were going to spend the winter ■there, and do what work ti»ey could. Reached Fort Shepherd on the evening of the Gth. Oetoher 7th. — I am informed by Mr. Jane that my instructions are on board the Forty-nine, and that IMr. Moberly has Rone to New Westminster; therefore, as it is very likely that my orders will be to return to New Westminster also, and as the steamer is expected down in a couple of days, J will remain here until the steamer iirrives from above. October 8lh. — Waiting for steamer, making up my journal, accounts, &c. October 9th, 10th, 11/A.— At Fort Shepherd. October 12th. — The steamer arrived from above about 10 a.m. I received my letter of instruc- tions, which inforrai;d me that I was to make the best of my way to New Westminster, also to make the best airaiigcmeiit I could about luoney; I tried Mr. Jane, but he could not advance; I next tried Mr. Ilardisty, who very kindly advanced me 8H75; with this sum I was enabled to pay oflF two of my Indiana, and all my bills; one Indian, however, 1 could not pay off, but as he is going to Kamloops, 1 intend bringing him with me as far as Osoyocs, where, perhaps, Mr. Haynes may nettle with him. October 13th. — Receiving the money from Mr. Ilardisty; paying off my Indians, &c., &c. October Uth to 21s<. — Travelling to Osoyoos Lake with Mr. Brown's train. Arranged with Mr. Haynes to pay off my Indian. October 22 lid to 2StIi.—Tnivvmng to Hope; fcinnd the Hope mountain troil ;.., excellent condition, and wanting no repairs, more than t]v: removal of a Ibw logs, and repairs on one or two small bridges, which have been lately destroyed by fire. October 2i)th. — On board ettamer for New Westminster. J. TURNBULL. Mr. Howell's Journal. S'e/if'»iJrr4M.— Having received orders from Mr. Tnrnbull to proceed and examine the district between Kootenay Luke and the head of St. Mary's lliver, I started across divide between Creeks iNos. i and d, crossing the latter about '"' ••"''■" <"■■■—■ =•- "• " ^ '"- . i_ ., luilfs from ifs mouth. Found the bottom low and a ro.-id. As Jlr, Turnbuil examined this valley, I commenced the ascent on the south side, and camped about one mile up. favourable for 28 COLUMBIA RIVER EXPL0RATI017, 18G6. abruptly about 7, uilesfrom^t"n.outh^^^^^^^^^ "' *'"^ ^'^"^ "^ Creek N,„ 1, wluch ond^ 6 mi X7oZZ^SilZAT '"''° '° "^ north-easterlydircetion, I cneampcd about Crook No. 5, which tcrminaS in snow peaks ^ ' ' ""'""'' '^'""I"^'^ "^ '^'^ ''«"•! »'' natfe'Sgh di7i£°'"'^ '^'"•^^ ^'"^•'''" ^'"^■''^ N°«- « f»